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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/18506-8.txt b/18506-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..21df90e --- /dev/null +++ b/18506-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,9710 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of To The Gold Coast for Gold, Vol. II, by +Richard Francis Burton and Verney Lovett Cameron + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: To The Gold Coast for Gold, Vol. II + A Personal Narrative + +Author: Richard Francis Burton and Verney Lovett Cameron + +Release Date: June 5, 2006 [EBook #18506] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TO THE GOLD COAST FOR GOLD *** + + + + +Produced by Carlo Traverso, S.R. Ellison, and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net. (This +file was produced from images generously made available +by the Bibliothčque nationale de France (BnF/Gallica) at +http://gallica.bnf.fr). + + + + + + + + + +TO THE GOLD COAST FOR GOLD + +_A Personal Narrative_ + +BY Richard F. Burton AND Verney Lovett Cameron + +In Two Volumes--Vol. II. + + + + +CONTENTS OF THE SECOND VOLUME + + +CHAPTER + + XII. THE SÁ LEONITE AT HOME AND ABROAD + + XIII. FROM SÁ LEONE TO CAPE PALMAS + + XIV. FROM CAPE PALMAS TO AXIM + + XV. AXIM, THE GOLD PORT OF THE PAST AND THE FUTURE + + XVI. GOLD ABOUT AXIM, ESPECIALLY AT THE APATIM OR BUJIÁ CONCESSION + + XVII. THE RETURN--VISIT TO KING BLAY; ATÁBO AND BÉIN + +XVIII. THE IZRAH MINE--THE INYOKO CONCESSION--THE RETURN TO AXIM + + XIX. TO PRINCE'S RIVER AND BACK + + XX. FROM AXIM TO INGOTRO AND AKANKON + + XXI. TO TUMENTO, THE 'GREAT CENTRAL DEPÔT' + + XXII. TO INSIMANKÁO AND THE BUTABUÉ RAPIDS. + +XXIII. TO EFFUENTA, CROCKERVILLE, AND THE AJI BIPA HILL + + XXIV. TO THE MINES OF ABOSU, OF THE 'GOLD COAST,' AND OF THE TÁKWÁ + ('AFRICAN GOLD COAST') COMPANIES + + XXV. RETURN TO AXIM AND DEPARTURE FOR EUROPE + + CONCLUSION + + + + * * * * * + +APPENDIX. + +I. + §1. THE ASHANTI SCARE + §2. THE LABOUR-QUESTION IN WESTERN AFRICA + §3. GOLD-DIGGING IN NORTH-WESTERN AFRICA + +II. + PART I.--LIST OF BIRDS COLLECTED BY CAPTAIN BURTON AND COMMANDER CAMERON + + PART II.--LIST OF PLANTS COLLECTED ON THE GOLD COAST BY CAPTAIN BURTON +AND COMMANDER CAMERON, R.N. (FURNISHED BY PROFESSOR OLIVER) + + * * * * * + +INDEX + + + +TO THE GOLD COAST FOR GOLD. + + + +CHAPTER XII. + +THE SÁ LEONITE AT HOME AND ABROAD. + +In treating this part of the subject I shall do my best to avoid +bitterness and harsh judging as far as the duty of a traveller--that of +telling the whole truth--permits me. It is better for both writer and +reader to praise than to dispraise. Most Englishmen know negroes of pure +blood as well as 'coloured persons' who, at Oxford and elsewhere, have +shown themselves fully equal in intellect and capacity to the white races +of Europe and America. These men afford incontestable proofs that the +negro can be civilised, and a high responsibility rests upon them as the +representatives of possible progress. But hitherto the African, as will +presently appear, has not had fair play. The petting and pampering +process, the spirit of mawkish reparation, and the coddling and +high-strung sentimentality so deleterious to the tone of the colony, were +errors of English judgment pure and simple. We can easily explain them. + +The sad grey life of England, the reflection of her climate, has ever +welcomed a novelty, a fresh excitement. Society has in turn lionised the +_marmiton_, or assistant-cook, self-styled an 'Emir of the Lebanon;' the +Indian 'rajah,' at home a _munshi_, or language-master; and the 'African +princess,' a slave-girl picked up in the bush. It is the same hunger for +sensation which makes the mob stare at the Giant and the Savage, the Fat +Lady, the Living Skeleton, and the Spotted Boy. + +Before entering into details it will be necessary to notice the history of +the colony--an oft-told tale; yet nevertheless some parts will bear +repetition. +[Footnote: The following is its popular chronology:-- + 1787. First settlers (numbering 460) sailed. + 1789. Town burnt by natives (1790?). + 1791. St. George's Bay Company founded. + 1792. Colonists (1,831) from Nova Scotia. + 1794. Colony plundered by the French. + 1800. Maroons (560) from Jamaica added. + 1808. Sá Leone ceded to the Crown; 'Cruits' introduced. + 1827. Direct government by the Crown.] + +According to Pčre Labat, the French founded in 1365 Petit Paris at +'Serrelionne,' a town defended by the fort of the Dieppe and Rouen +merchants. The official date of the discovery is 1480, when Pedro de +Cintra, one of the gentlemen of Prince Henry 'the Navigator,' visited the +place, after his employer's death A.D. 1463. In 1607 William Finch, +merchant, found the names of divers Englishmen inscribed on the rocks, +especially Thos. Candish, or Cavendish, Captain Lister, and Sir Francis +Drake. In 1666 the Sieur Villault de Bellefons tells us that the river +from Cabo Ledo, or Cape Sierra Leone, had several bays, of which the +fourth, now St. George's, was called _Baie de France_. This seems to +confirm Pčre Labat. I have noticed the Tasso fort, built by the English in +1695. The next account is by Mr. Surveyor Smith, [Footnote: He is mentioned +in the last chapter.] who says 'it is not certain when the English became +masters of Sierra Leone, which they possessed unmolested until Roberts the +pirate took it in 1720.' Between 1785 and 1787 Lieutenant John Matthews, +R.N., resided here, and left full particulars concerning the export +slave-trade, apparently the only business carried on by the British. + +Modern Sá Leone is the direct outcome of Lord Chief Justice Mansfield's +memorable decision delivered in the case of Jas. Somerset _v_. Mr. James +G. Stewart, his master. 'The claim of slavery never can be supported; the +power claimed never was in use here or acknowledged by law.' This took +place on June 21, 1772; yet in 1882 the Gold Coast is not wholly +free. [Footnote: Slavery was abolished on the Gold Coast by royal command +on December 7, 1874; yet the _Gold Coast Times_ declares that domestic +slavery is an institution recognised by the law-courts of the +Protectorate.] + +Many 'poor blacks,' thrust out of doors by their quondam owners, flocked +to the 'African's friend,' Granville Sharp, and company. Presently a +charitable society, with a large command of funds and Jonas Hanway for +chairman, was formed in London; and our people, sorely sorrowing for their +newly-found sin, proposed a colony founded on philanthropy and free labour +in Africa. Sá Leone was chosen, by the advice of Mr. Smeathman, an old +resident. In 1787 Captain Thompson, agent of the St. George's Bay Company, +paid 30_l_. to the Timni chief, Naimbana, _alias_ King Tom, for the rocky +peninsula, extending twenty square miles from the Rokel to the Ketu River. +In the same year he took out the first batch of emigrants, 460 black +freed-men and about 60 whites, in the ship _Nautilus_, whose history so +far resembled that of the _Mayflower_. Eighty-four perished on the +journey, and not a few fell victims to the African climate and its +intemperance; but some 400 survived and built for themselves Granville +Town. These settlers formed the first colony. + +In 1790 the place was attacked by the Timni tribe, to avenge the insult +offered to their 'King Jimmy' by the crew of an English vessel, who burnt +his town. The people dispersed, and were collected from the bush with some +difficulty by Mr. Falconbridge. This official was sent out from England +early in 1791, and his wife wrote the book. In the same year (1791) St. +George's Bay Company was incorporated under Act 31 Geo. III. c. 55 as the +'Sierra Leone Company.' Amongst the body of ninety-nine proprietors the +foremost names are Granville Sharp, William Wilberforce, William Ludlam, +and Sir Richard Carr Glynn. They spent 111,500_l_. in establishing and +developing the settlement during the first ten and a half years of its +existence; and the directors organised a system of government, closely +resembling the British constitution, under Lieutenant Clarkson, R.N. + +Next year the second batch of colonists came upon the stage. The negroes +who had remained loyal to England, and had been settled by the Government +in Nova Scotia, found the bleak land utterly unsuitable, and sent home a +delegate to pray that they might be restored to Africa. The directors +obtained free passage in sixteen ships for 100 white men and 1,831 +negroes. Led by Lieutenant Clarkson, they landed upon the Lioness range in +March (1792), after losing sixty of their number. + +Bred upon maize and rice, bread and milk, the new comers sickened on +cassava and ground-nuts. They had no frame-houses, and the rains set in +early, about mid-May, before they had found shelter. The whites were +attacked with climate-fever, which did not respect even the doctors. +Quarrels and insubordination resulted, and 800 of the little band were +soon carried to the grave. Then a famine broke out. A ship from England, +freighted with stores, provisions, and frame-houses, was driven back by a +storm. Forty-five acres had been promised to each settler-family; it was +found necessary to diminish the number to four, and the denseness of the +bush rendered even those four unmanageable. Disgusted with Granville Town, +the new comers transferred themselves to the present site of Freetown, the +northern _Libreville_. + +The Company offered annual premiums to encourage the building of +farm-houses, stock-rearing, and growing provisions and exportable produce. +Under Dr. Afzelius, afterwards Professor at Upsal, who first studied the +natural history of the peninsula, they established an experimental garden +and model farm. An English gardener was also employed to naturalise the +large collection of valuable plants from the East and West Indies and the +South Sea Islands supplied by Kew. The Nova Scotians, however, like true +slaves, considered agriculture servile and degrading work--a prejudice +which, as will be seen, prevails to this day not only in the colony, but +throughout the length and breadth of the Dark Continent. + +Meanwhile war had broken out between England and France, causing the +frequent detention of vessels; and a store-ship in the harbour caught +fire, the precursor of a worse misfortune. On a Sunday morning, 1794, as +the unfortunates were looking out for the Company's craft (the _Harpy_), a +French man-of-war sailed into the roadstead, pillaged the 'church and the +apothecary's shop,' and burnt boats as well as town. The assailant then +wasted Granville, sailed up to Bance Island, and finally captured two +vessels, besides the long-expected _Harpy_. Having thus left his mark, he +disappeared, after granting, at the Governor's urgent request, two or +three weeks' provision for the whites. Famine followed, with sickness in +its train, and the neighbouring slave-dealers added all they could to the +sufferings of the settlement. + +In the same year Zachary Macaulay, father of Lord Macaulay, became +Governor for the first time. The Company also made its earliest effort to +open up trade with the interior by a mission, and two of their servants +penetrated 300 miles inland to Timbo, capital of that part of Pulo-land. A +deputation of chiefs presently visited the settlement to propose terms; +but the futility of the negro settler was a complete obstacle to the +development of the internal commerce, the main object for which the +Company was formed. Yet the colony prospered; in 1798 Freetown numbered, +besides public buildings, about 300 houses. + +In 1800 the Sierra Leone Company obtained a Charter of Justice from the +Crown, authorising the directors to appoint a Governor and Council, and to +make laws not repugnant to those of England. During the same year the +settlers, roused to wrath by a small ground-rent imposed upon their farms, +rose in rebellion. This movement was put down by introducing a third +element of 530 Maroons, who arrived in October. They were untamable +Coromanti (Gold Coast) negroes who boasted that among blacks they were +what the English are among whites, able to fight and thrash all other +tribes. They had escaped from their Spanish masters when the British +conquered Jamaica in 1655; they took to the mountains, and, joined by +desperadoes, they built sundry scattered settlements. [Footnote: In 1738, +after regular military operations, the Maroons of Jamaica agreed to act as +police and to deliver up runaways. In 1795 the Trelawny men rebelled, and, +having inflicted a severe loss upon the troops, were deported to Nova +Scotia and Sá Leone.] Introducing these men fostered the ill-feeling +which, in the earlier part of the present century, prevented the rival +sections from intermarrying. Many of the disaffected Sá Leonites left the +colony; some fled to the wilds and the wild ones of the interior, and a +few remained loyal. + +Rumours of native invasions began to prevail. The Governor was loth to +believe that King Tom would thus injure his own interests, until one +morning, when forty war-canoes, carrying armed Timnis, were descried +paddling round the eastern point. Londoners and Nova Scotians fled to the +fort, and next day the Timni drum sounded the attack. The Governor, who +attempted to parley, was wounded; but the colonists, seeing that life was +at stake, armed themselves and beat off the assailants, when the Maroons +of Granville Town completed the rout. After this warning a wall with +strong watch-towers was built round Freetown. + +Notwithstanding all precautions, another 'Timni rising' took place in +1803. The assailants paddled down in larger numbers from Porto Loko, +landed at Kissy, and assaulted Freetown, headed by a jumping and drumming +'witch-woman.' Divided into three storming parties, they bravely attacked +the gates, but they were beaten back without having killed a man. The dead +savages lay so thick that the Governor, fearing pestilence, ordered the +corpses to be cast into the sea. + +The first law formally abolishing slavery was passed, after a twenty +years' campaign, by the energy of Messieurs Clarkson, Stephen, +Wilberforce, and others, on May 23, 1806. In 1807 the importation of fresh +negroes into the colonies became illegal. On March 16, 1808, Sá Leone +received a constitution, and was made a depôt for released captives. This +gave rise to the preventive squadron, and in due time to a large +importation of the slaves it liberated. Locally called 'Cruits,' many of +these savages were war-captives; others were criminals condemned to death, +whom the wise chief preferred to sell than to slay. With a marvellous +obtuseness and want of common sense our Government made Englishmen by +wholesale of these wretches, with eligibility to sit on juries, to hold +office, and to exercise all the precious rights of Englishmen. Instead of +being apprenticed or bound to labour for some seven years under +superintendence, and being taught to clear the soil, plant and build, as +in similar cases a white man assuredly would have been, they were allowed +to loaf, lie, and cheat through a life equally harmful to themselves and +others. 'Laws of labour,' says an African writer, [Footnote: _Sierra Leone +Weekly Times_, July 30, 1862.] 'may be out of place (date?) in England, but +in Sierra Leone they would have saved an entire population from trusting +to the allurements of a petty, demoralising trade; they would have saved +us the sight of decayed villages and a people becoming daily less capable +of bearing the laborious toil of agricultural industry. To handle the hoe +has now become a disgrace, and men have lost their manhood by becoming +gentlemen.' I shall presently return to this subject. + +Thus the four colonies which successively peopled Sá Leone were composed +of destitute paupers from England, of fugitive Nova Scotian serviles, of +outlawed Jamaican negroes, and of slave-prisoners or criminals from every +region of Western and inner Africa. + +The first society of philanthropists, the 'Sierra Leone Company,' failed, +but not without dignity. It had organised a regular government, and even +coined its own money. In the British Museum a silver piece like a florin +bears on the obverse 'Sierra Leone Company, Africa,' surrounding a lion +guardant standing on a mountain; the reverse shows between the two numbers +50 and 50 two joined hands, representing the union of England and Africa, +and the rim bears 'half-dollar piece, 1791,' the year of the creation of +the colony. The Company's intentions were pure; its hopes and expectations +were lofty, and the enthusiasts flattered themselves that they had proved +the practicability of civilising Africa. But debt and native wars ended +their career, and transferred, on January 1, 1808, their rights to the +Crown. The members, however, did not lose courage, but at once formed the +African Institution, the parent of the Royal Geographical Society. + +The government of the Crown colony has undergone some slight +modifications. In 1866 it was made, with very little forethought, a kind +of government-general, the centre of rule for all the West African +settlements. The unwisdom of this step was presently recognised, and Sá +Leone is now under a charter dated December 17, 1874, the governor-in-chief +having command over the administration of Bathurst, Gambia. Similarly +farther south, Lagos, now the Liverpool of West Africa, has been +bracketed, foolishly enough, with the Gold Coast. + +The liberateds, called by the people 'Cruits,' and officially +'recaptives,' soon became an important factor. In 1811 they numbered 2,500 +out of 4,500; and between June 1819 and January 1833 they totalled 27,167 +hands. They are now represented by about seventeen chief, and two hundred +minor, tribes. A hundred languages, according to Mr. Koelle, increased to +a hundred and fifty by Bishop Vidal, and reduced to sixty by Mr. Griffith, +are spoken in the streets of Freetown, a 'city' which in 1860 numbered +17,000 and now 22,000 souls. The inextricably mixed descendants of the +liberateds may be a total of 35,430, more than half the sum of the +original settlement, 53,862. Being mostly criminals, and _ergo_ more +energetic spirits, they have been the most petted and patronised by +colonial rule. There were governors who attempted to enforce our wise old +regulations touching apprenticeship, still so much wanted in the merchant +navy; but disgust, recall, or death always shortened their term of office. +Naturally enough, the 'Cruits' were fiercely hated by Colonists, Settlers, +and Maroons. Mrs. Melville reports an elderly woman exclaiming, 'Well, +'tis only my wonder that we (settlers) do not rise up in one body and +_kill_ and _slay_, _kill_ and _slay!_ Dem Spanish and Portuguese sailors +were quite right in making slaves. I would do de same myself, suppose I +were in dere place.' 'He is only a liberated!' is a favourite sneer at the +new arrivals; so in the West Indies, by a curious irony of fate, +'Willyfoss nigger' is a term of abuse addressed to a Congo or Guinea +'recaptive.' But here all the tribes are bitterly hostile to one another, +and all combine against the white man. After the fashion of the Gold Coast +they have formed themselves into independent caucuses called 'companies,' +who set aside funds for their own advancement and for the ruin of their +rivals. + +The most powerful and influential races are two--the Aku and the Ibo. The +Akus [Footnote: This is a nickname from the national salutation, 'Aku, ku, +ku?' ('How d'ye do?')] or Egbas of Yoruba, the region behind Lagos, the +Eyeos of the old writers, so called from their chief town, 'Oyo,' are +known by their long necklaces of tattoo. They are termed the Jews of +Western Africa; they are perfect in their combination, and they poison +with a remarkable readiness. The system of Egba 'clanship' is a favourite, +sometimes an engrossing, topic for invective with the local press, who +characterise this worst species of 'trades-union,' founded upon +intimidation and something worse, as the 'Aku tyranny' and the 'Aku +Inquisition.' The national proverb speaks the national sentiment clearly +enough: '_Okŕn kau lč ase ibi, ikoko li asi ěmolle bi atoju ěmolle taů, ke +atoju ibi pella, bi aba kű ara enni ni isni 'ni'_ ('A man must openly +practise the duties of kinship, even though he may privately belong to a +(secret) club; when he has attended the club he must also attend to the +duties of kinship, because when he dies his kith and kin are those who +bury him'). + +The Ibos, or 'Eboes' of American tales, are even more divided; still they +feel and act upon the principle 'Union is strength.' This large and savage +tribe, whose headquarters are at Abo, about the head of the Nigerian +delta, musters strong at Sá Leone; here they are the Swiss of the +community; the Kruboys, and further south the Kabenda-men being the +'Paddies.' It is popularly said that while the Aku will do anything for +money, the Ibo will do anything for revenge. Both races are astute in the +extreme and intelligent enough to work harm. Unhappily, their talents +rarely take the other direction. In former days they had faction-fights: +the second eastern district witnessed the last serious disturbance in +1834. Now they do battle under the shadow of the law. 'Aku constables will +not, unless in extreme cases, take up their delinquent countrymen, nor +will an Ebo constable apprehend an Ebo thief; and so on through all the +different tribes,' says the lady 'Resident of Sierra Leone.' If the +majority of the jury be Akus, they will unhesitatingly find the worst of +Aku criminals innocent, and the most innocent of whites, Ibos, or Timnis +guilty. The Government has done its best to weld all those races into one, +and has failed. Many, however, are becoming Moslems, as at Lagos, and this +change may have a happier effect by introducing the civilisation of +El-Islam. + +Trial by jury has proved the reverse of a blessing to most non-English +lands; in Africa it is simply a curse. The model institution becomes here, +as in the United States, a better machine for tyranny than any tyrant, +except a free people, ever invented. The British Constitution determines +that a man shall be tried by his peers. Half a dozen of his peers at Sá +Leone may be full-blooded blacks, liberated slaves, half-reformed +fetish-worshippers, sometimes with a sneaking fondness for Shángo, the +Egba god of fire; and, if not criminals and convicts in their own country, +at best paupers clad in dishclouts and palm-oil. The excuse is that a +white jury cannot be collected among the forty or fifty eligibles in +Freetown. It is vain to 'challenge,' for other negroes will surely take +the place of those objected to. No one raises the constitutional question, +'Are these half-reclaimed savages my peers?' And if he did, Justice would +sternly reply, 'Yes.' The witnesses will forswear themselves, not, like +our 'posters,' for half a crown, but gratis, because the plaintiff or +defendant is a fellow-tribesman. The judge may be 'touched with a +tar-brush;' but, be he white as milk, he must pass judgment according to +verdict. This state of things recalls to mind the Ireland of the early +nineteenth century, when the judges were prefects armed with a penal code, +and the jurymen vulgar, capricious, and factious partisans. + +Surely such a caricature of justice, such an outrage upon reason, was +never contemplated by British law or lawgiver. Our forefathers never +dreamt that the free institutions for which they fought and bled during +long centuries would thus be prostituted, would be lavished upon every +black 'recaptive,' be he thief, wizard, or assassin, after living some +fourteen days in a black corner of the British empire. Even the Irishman +and the German must pass some five years preparing themselves in the +United States before they become citizens. Sensible Africans themselves +own that 'the negro race is not fitted, without a guiding hand, to +exercise the privileges of English citizenship.' A writer of the last +century justly says, 'Ideas of perfect liberty have too soon been given to +this people, considering their utter ignorance. If one of them were asked +why he does not repair his house, clear his farm, mend his fence, or put +on better clothes, he replies that "King no give him work dis time," and +that he can do no more than "burn bush and plant little _cassader_ for +yam."' + +But a kind of _hysterica passio_ seems to have mastered the cool common +sense of the nation--a fury of repentance for the war about the Asiento +contract, for building Bristol and Liverpool with the flesh and blood of +the slave, and for the 2,130,000 negroes supplied to Jamaica between 1680 +and 1786. Like a veteran devotee Great Britain began atoning for the +coquetries of her hot youth. While Spain and Portugal have passed sensible +laws for gradual emancipation, England, with a sublime folly, set free by +a stroke of the pen, at the expense of twenty millions sterling the born +and bred slaves of Jamaica. The result was an orgy for a week, a +systematic refusal to work, and for many years the ruin of the glorious +island. + +If the reader believes I have exaggerated the state of things long +prevalent at Sá Leone, he is mistaken. And he will presently see a +confirmation of these statements in the bad name which the Sá Leonite +bears upon the whole of the western coast. Yet, I repeat, the colony is +changed for the better, physically by a supply of pure water, morally by +the courage which curbed the black abuse. Twenty years ago to call a negro +'nigger' was actionable; many a 5_l._ has been paid for the indulgence of +_lčse-majesté_ against the 'man and brother;' and not a few 50_l._ when +the case was brought into the civil courts. After a rough word the Sá +Leonite would shake his fist at you and trot off exclaiming, 'Lawyer Rainy +(or Montague) lib for town!' A case of mild assault, which in England +would be settled by a police-magistrate and a fine of five shillings, +became at Freetown a serious 'bob.' Niger, accompanied by his friends or +his 'company,' betook himself to some limb of the law, possibly a +pettifogger, certainly a pauper who braved a deadly climate for uncertain +lucre. His interest was to promote litigation and to fill his pockets by +what is called sharp practice. After receiving the preliminary fee of +_5l_., to be paid out of the plunder, he demanded exemplary damages, and +the defendant was lightened of all he could afford to pay. When the +offender was likely to leave the station, the _modus operandi_ was as +follows. The writ of summons was issued. The lawyer strongly recommended +an apology and a promise to defray costs, with the warning that judgment +would go by default against the absentee. If the defendant prudently +'stumped up,' the affair ended; if not, a _capias_ was taken out, and the +law ran its course. A jury was chosen, and I have already told the +results. + +At length these vindictive cases became so numerous and so scandalous that +strong measures became necessary. Governor Blackall (1862-66) was brave +enough to issue an order that cases should not be brought into the civil +courts unless complainants could prove that they were men of some +substance. Immense indignation was the result; yet the measure has proved +most beneficial. The negro no longer squares up to you in the suburbs and +dares the 'white niggah' to strike the 'black gen'leman.' He mostly limits +himself to a mild impudence. If you ask a well-dressed black the way to a +house, he may still reply, 'I wonder you dar 'peak me without making +compliment!' The true remedy, however, is still wanting, a 'court of +summary jurisdiction presided over by men of honour and probity.' +[Footnote: _Wanderings in West Africa_, ii. pp. 231-23.] + +It cannot be said that the Sá Leonite has suffered from any want of +religious teaching or educational activity. On the contrary, he has had +too much of both. + +After the collapse of Portuguese missionary enterprise on the West Coast, +the first attempts to establish Wesleyan Methodism at Sá Leone were made +in 1796, when Dr. Thomas Coke tried and failed. The Nova Scotian colonists +in 1792 had already brought amongst them Wesleyans, Baptists, and Lady +Huntingdon's connexion. This school, which differs from other Methodists +only in Church government, still has a chapel at Sá Leone. Thus each sect +claims 1792 as the era of its commencement in the colony. In 1811 Mr. +Warren, the first ordained Wesleyan missionary, reached Freetown and died +on July 23, 1812. He was followed by Mrs. Davies, the prima donna of the +corps: she 'gathered up her feet,' as the native saying is, on December +15, 1815. Since that time the place has never lacked an unbroken +succession of European missionary deaths. + +The Church Missionary Society, founded in 1799, sent out, five years +afterwards, its first representatives, MM. Renner and Hartwig, Germans +supported by English funds. In 1816 they devoted themselves steadily to +converting the 'recaptives,' and many of them, together with their wives, +fell bravely at their posts. In twenty years thirty-seven out of seventy +died or were invalided. The names of Wylander and W. A. B. Johnson are +deservedly remembered. Nearly half a million sterling was spent at Sá +Leone, where the stone church of Kissy Road was built in 1839, and that of +Pademba Road in 1849. The grants were wisely withdrawn in 1862. At the +present moment only 300_l_. is given, and the church is reported to be +self-supporting. The first bishopric was established in 1852. In 1861 +Bishop Beckles instituted the native Church pastorate: its constitution is +identical with that of the Episcopalians, whose ecclesiastical functions +it has taken over. + +According to the last census-returns, Sá Leone contains 18,660 +Episcopalians; 17,093 Wesleyans and Methodists of the New Connection; +2,717 Lady Huntingdonians; 388 Baptists, and 369 Catholics. These native +Christians keep the Sundays and Church festivals with peculiar zest, and +delight in discordant hymns and preaching of the most ferocious kind. The +Dissenting chapel combines the Christy minstrel with Messieurs Moody and +Sankey; and the well-peppered palaver-sauce of home cookery reappears in +hotly spiced, bitterly pious sermons and 'experiences;' in shouts of +'Amen!' 'Glory!' and 'Hallelujah!' and in promiscuous orders to 'Hol' de +fort.' Right well do I remember while the rival pilots, Messieurs Elliot +and Johnson, were shamelessly perjuring themselves in the police-court, +[Footnote: _Wanderings in West Africa_, i. pp. 256-58.] the junior +generation on the other side of the building, separated by the thinnest of +party-walls, was refreshing itself with psalms and spiritual songs. + +We went to hear the psalmody. Ascending the staircase in the gable +opposite the court-house, we passed down the hall, and saw through the +open door the young idea at its mental drill in the hands of a pedagogue, +apparently one of the [Greek: _anaimosarka_], who, ghastly white and +thatched with Paganini hair, sat at the head of the room, the ruling body +of the unruly rout. Down the long length, whose whitewashed walls were +garnished with inscriptions, legal, moral, and religious, all sublime as +far as size went, were ranged parallel rows of _négrillons_ in the vast +costumal variety of a ragged school. They stood bolt upright, square to +the fore, in the position of ' 'tention,' their naked toes disposed at an +angle of 60ş, with fingers close to the seams of their breeches (when not +breekless), heads up and eyes front. Face and body were motionless, as if +cast in ebony: nothing moved but the saucer-like white eyes and the +ivory-lined mouths, from whose ample lips and gape issued a prodigious +volume of sound. Native assistants, in sable skins and yellowish white +chokers, carrying music-scores and armed with canes, sloped through the +avenues, occasionally halting to frown down some delinquent, whose body +was not perfectly motionless, and whose soul was not wholly fixed upon the +development of sacred time and tune. I have no doubt that they sang-- + + The sun, the moon, and all the stars, &c. + +precisely in the same spirit as if they had been intoning-- + + Peter Hill! poor soul! + Flog 'um wife, oh no! oh no! + +and that famous anthropological assertion-- + + Eve ate de appel, + Gib one to daddy Adam; + And so came mi-se-ry + Up-on dis worl'. + _Chorus (bis)_ Oh sor-row, oh sor-row! + Tri-bu-la-tion + Until sal-va-tion day. + +It is a pity that time and toil should be thus wasted. The negro child, +like the Hindu, is much sharper, because more precocious, than the +European; at six years he will become a good penman; in fact, he +promises more than he can perform. Reaching the age of puberty, his +capacity for progress suddenly disappears, the physical reason being +well known, and the 'cute lad becomes a _dummer Junge_. Mrs. Melville +thus describes her small servant-girl from one of these schools: 'She +looks almost nine years old; and, as far as reading goes, she knows +nothing more than her alphabet; can repeat the Prayer-Book Catechism by +rote, and one or two hymns, utterly ignorant all the while of the import +of a single word.' Even in Europe education, till lately, exercised the +judgment too little, the memory too much; consequently there were more +learned men than wise men. The system is now changing, and due attention +is paid to the _corpus sanum_, the first requisite for the _mens sana_. +The boys at Sá Leone are kept nine hours in school, learning verse by +heart, practising a vocalisation which cannot be heard without pain, and +toiling at the English language, which some missionaries seem to hold a +second revelation. Far better two or three hours of the 'three Rs' and +six of the shop or workyard. Briefly, the system should be that of the +Basle Missionary Society, [Footnote: I deeply regret that _Wanderings in +West Africa_ spoke far less fairly of this establishment than it +deserves. My better judgment had been warped by the prejudiced accounts +of a fellow-traveller.] which combines abstract teaching with practical +instruction in useful handicraft, and which thus suggests the belief +that work is dignified as it is profitable. + +The Sá Leonites from their earliest days were greedy to gain knowledge as +the modern Greeks and Bulgarians; but the motive was not exalted. Their +proverb said, 'Read book, and learn to be rogue as well as white man.' +Hence useless, fanciful subjects were in vogue;--algebra, as it were, +before arithmetic;--and the poor made every sacrifice to give their sons a +smattering of Latin, Greek, and Hebrew. The desire of entering the +'professions' naturally affected the standard of education. What is still +wanted at Sá Leone is to raise the mass by giving to their teaching a more +practical turn, which shall cultivate habits of industry, economy, and +self-respect, and encourage handicrafts and agriculture as well as trade. + +I have already noticed the Fourah Bay College. The Church Missionary +Grammar-School, opened in 1845, prepares boarders and day-scholars for +university education; and the curriculum is that of an ordinary English +grammar-school. The establishment, which has already admitted over 1,000 +boys, is now self-supporting, and has an invested surplus, with which +tutors are sent to England for higher instruction in 'pćdagogia.' The +Wesleyan High School for Boys, opened in 1874, receives youths from +neighbouring colonies; that for girls, originating with Mrs. Godman, the +wife of a veteran missionary still on the Coast, was founded in 1879. It +was cordially taken up by the natives, who subscribed all the funds. The +founders thought best to adopt the commercial principle; but no one as yet +has asked for profit, and the school shows signs of prosperity and +progress. The Annie Walsh Memorial School for Girls, dating from a bequest +by the lady whose name it bears, is under the management of the Church +Missionary Society. The Catholics are, as usual, well to the fore. The +priests keep a large school for boys, and the sisters educate young women +and girls. I have before described the dark novice,-- + + Under a veil that wimpled was full low; + And over all a black stole shee did throw. + +The masters also make their children learn Arabic and English. There is a +manliness and honesty in the look of the Mandenga and the Susu never seen +in the impudent 'recaptive.' The dignity of El-Islam everywhere displays +itself: it is the majesty of the monotheist, who ignores the degrading +doctrine of original sin; it is the sublime indifference to life which +_kazá wa kadar_, by us meagrely translated 'fatalism,' confers upon the +votaries of 'the Faith.' These are not the remarks of a prejudiced +sympathiser with El-Islam: many others have noted the palpable superiority +of the Moslem over the missionary convert and the liberated populace of Sá +Leone. + +As a rule journalism on the West Coast is still in the lowest stage of +Eatanswillism, and the journal is essentially ephemeral. The newspapers of +twenty years ago are all dead and forgotten. Such were the 'African +Herald,' a 'buff' organ, edited by the late Rev. Mr. Jones, a West Indian, +and its successor, the 'African Weekly Times.' The 'Sierra Leone Gazette' +succumbed when the Wesleyans established (1842) the 'Sierra Leone +Watchman.' Other defuncts are the 'Free Press,' a Radical paper, +representing Young Sá Leone, and a fourth, the 'Intelligencer,' which +strove to prove what has sometimes been asserted at negro +indignation-meetings, namely, that 'a white man, if _he behave himself_, +is as good as a black man.' Cain, like the rest of the family, was a +negro; but when rebuked by the Creator he turned pale with fear, a tint +inherited by his descendants. The theory is, _par parenthčse_, as good as +any other. The only papers now published are the 'West African Reporter,' +whose proprietor and editor was the late Hon. Mr. Grant, and the +'Watchman,' a quasi-comic sheet. + +The worst feature of journalism in West Africa is that fair play is +unknown to it. The negroes may thoroughly identify themselves with +England, claim a share in her greatness, and display abundant lip-loyalty; +yet there is the racial aversion to Englishmen in the concrete, and to +this is added the natural jealousy of seeing strangers monopolise the best +appointments. The Sá Leonite openly declares that he and his can rule the +land much better and more economically than the sickly foreigner, who +spends half his service-time on board the steamers and at home. 'Dere goes +another white raskel to his grave!' they will exclaim at the sight of a +funeral. 'Wish dey all go and leave colony to US.' And as the reading and +paying public is mainly composed of Nigers, the papers must sooner or +later cater for their needs, and lose no opportunity of casting obloquy +and ridicule upon the authorities and Albus in general. We can hardly +blame them. I have shown that the worst and most scandalous display of +journalism comes from London. + +After the church, the school, and the newspaper, the most important +civilising institution is the market. Sá Leone is favourably situated for +collecting the interior trade, and yet seven-tenths of the revenue is +derived from articles passing through the Loko and Rokel rivers; the rest +is levied from wines, spirits, and tobacco, and in the form of +preposterous harbour-dues. The export duties are light, but the exports do +not seem to have increased as rapidly as they should have done during the +last twenty years; this, too, despite missions into the interior and the +hospitable reception of native chiefs and their messengers. There are no +assessed or house taxes. The revenue and expenditure of the past five +years have averaged, respectively, 63,869_l_. and 59,283_l_., leaving a +surplus of 4,586_l_., which might profitably be expended upon roads. But +the liabilities of the colony early in 1881 still amounted to 50,637_l_., +being the balance of a debt resulting principally from the harbour-works. + +The present population of the original settlement--including British Kwiáh +(Quiah), an early annexation--is 53,862. The dependencies, Isles de Los, +Tasso, Kikonkeh, and British Sherbro, according to the census of 1881, add +6,684, a figure which experts would increase by 4,000. The total, +therefore, in round numbers, would be nearly 65,000. At the last census +only 163 were resident whites; the crews and passengers of ships in port +added 108. + +On the whole the Sá Leonite cannot be called a success. Servants in shoals +present themselves on board the steamers, begging 'ma'sr' to take them +down coast. In vain. The fellow is handier than his southern brother: he +can mend a wheel, make a coffin, or cut your hair. Yet none, save the +veriest greenhorn, will engage him in any capacity. As regards civility +and respectfulness he is far inferior to the _emancipado_ of Cuba or the +Brazil; with a superior development of 'sass,' he is often an inveterate +thief. He has fits of drinking, when he becomes mad as a Malay. He +gambles, he overdresses himself, and he indulges in love-intrigues till he +has exhausted his means, and then he makes 'boss' pay for all. With a +terrible love of summonsing, and a thorough enjoyment of a law-court, he +enters into the spirit of the thing like an attorney's clerk. He soon +wearies of the less exciting life in the wilder settlements, where orgies +and debauchery are not fully developed; home-sickness seizes him, and he +deserts his post; probably robbing house or till. + +Even a black who has once visited Sá Leone is considered spoilt for life, +as if he had spent a year in England. Hence the eccentric Captain Phil. +Beaver declared that he 'would rather carry a rattlesnake than a negro who +has been in London.' I have met with some ugly developments of +home-education. One was a yellow Dan Lambert, the son of a small +shopkeeper, who was returning--dubbed a 'Templar'--from the Land of +Liberty. He was not a pleasant companion. His face was that of a porker +half-translated; he yelped the regular Tom Coffee laugh; and when asked +why Sá Leone had not contributed to the Crimean Widow Fund, he uttered the +benevolent wish that 'the damned ---- and their brats might all starve +like their husbands.' Another was a full-blooded negro, a petty huckster +at the 'Red Grave,' who, in his last 'homeward' voyage, had met at Madeira +the Dean and Deaness of Oxbridge. The lady resolved to keep up the +creditable acquaintanceship: so strong is feminine love for the 'black +lion.' Shortly afterwards Niger paid his promised visit, which he +described graphically and sans sense of shame--how he had been met at the +station by a tall gentleman in uniform and gold-laced hat, how he was +invited to enter a carriage, and how great was his astonishment when the +'officer' preferred standing in the open air behind to accompanying him +inside. After this naďve _début_ he showed tact. Mr. Dean wished to know +if anything could be done towards advancing the interesting guest in his +'profession'--not trade. We talk of an English school-master, but a +mulatto or a negro becomes a 'professor.' Niger whispered 'No,' which, +ladylike, meant a distinct 'Yes.' He ended by graciously accepting an +introduction to a Manchester firm, and soon relieved it of 16,000_l_. + +No one who knows the West African coast will assert that the influence of +Sá Leone has been in any way for good. All can certify that this colony, +intended as a 'model of policy,' and founded with the object of promoting +African improvement, has been the greatest obstacle to progress. She +fought to keep every advantage to herself, and she succeeded in securing a +monopoly of 'recaptives,' who were more wanted elsewhere. She became an +incubus in 1820, when all British possessions from N. Lat. 20ş to S. Lat. +20ş were made her dependencies. The snake was scotched in 1844 by the Gold +Coast achieving her independence. Yet Sá Leone raised herself to a +government-general in 1866, and possibly she will do so again. + +The Sá Leonite has ever distinguished himself by kicking down, as the +phrase is, the ladder which raised him. No man maltreats his wild brother +so much as the so-called 'civilised' negro: he never addresses his +congener except by 'You jackass!' and tells him ten times a day that he +considers such trash like the dirt beneath his feet. Consequently he is +hated and despised withal, being of the same colour as, while assuming +such excessive superiority over, his former equals. No one also is more +hopeless about the civilisation of Africa than the semi-civilised African +returning to the 'home of his fathers.' He feels how hard has been his +struggle to emerge from savagery; he acknowledges, in his own case, a +selection of species; and he foresees no end to the centuries before there +can be a nation equal even to himself. Yet in England and in books he will +cry up the majesty of African kings,--see, for a specimen, Bishop +Crowther's 'Niger Diary.' He will give his fellow-countrymen, whom he +thoroughly despises, a thousand grand gifts of morals and industry. I have +heard a negro assert, with the unblushing effrontery which animates the +Exeter Hall speechifier, that at some African den of thieves men leave +their money with impunity in the storehouse or on the highway. I read the +assertion of a mulatto, who well knew the contrary, 'A white man who +supposes himself respected in Africa, because he is white, is grievously +mistaken.' The 'aristocracy of colour' is a notable and salient fact in +Africa, where the chiefs are lighter hued and better grown than their +subjects; and the reason is patent--they marry the handsomest women. + +Finally, the Sá Leonite is the horror of Europeans on the West Coast. He +has been formally expelled by his neighbours, the Liberians. At Lagos and +Abeokuta he lost no time in returning to his original fetishism, which the +'recaptive' apparently can never throw off. Moreover, he became an +inveterate slave-dealer, impudently placing himself under native +protection, and renegading the flag that saved the crime-serf from +lifelong servitude. These 'insolent, vagabond loafers' were the only men +who gave me much trouble in the so-called 'Oil rivers,' where one of them +accused a highly respected Scotch missionary of theft. Finally, the Gaboon +merchants long preferred forfeiting the benefits of the mail-steamers to +seeing themselves invaded by a locust tribe, whose loveliest view is, +apparently, that which leads out of Sá Leone. + +Part of this demoralisation arose from the over-tenderness of the British +Government, in deference to the philanthropist and the missionary. +Throughout the Bights of Benin and Biafra, where the chief stalks about +with his fetishman and his executioner, there is still some manliness +amongst men, some modesty amongst women. There the offending wife fears +beheading and 'saucy water;' here she leaves with impunity her husband, +who rarely abandons the better half. Consequently the sex has become +vicious as in Egypt--worse than the men, bad as these are. Petty larceny +is carried on to such an extent that no improvement is possible: as +regards property, the peninsula contains the most communistic of +communities. The robbers are expert to a degree; they work naked and well +greased, and they choose early dawn or the night-hour when the tornado is +most violent. The men fight by biting, squeezing, and butting with the +head, like the Brazilian _capoeira_. The women have a truly horrible way +of putting out of the world an obnoxious lover. Ask an Aku if an Ibo is +capable of poisoning you: he will say emphatically, 'Yes.' Put the same +question to an Ibo touching an Aku, and he will not reply, 'No.' + +With respect to the relative position of Japhet and Ham--perhaps I should +say Ham and Japhet--ultra-philanthropy has granted all the aspirations of +the Ethiopian melodist:-- + + wish de legislator would set dis darkie free; + Oh, what a happy place den de darkie world would be! + We'd have a darkie parliament, + An' darkie code of law, + An' darkie judges on de bench, + Darkie barristers and aw. + +I own that darkey must be defended, and sturdily defended too, from the +injustice and cruelty of the class he calls 'poor white trash;' but the +protection should be in reason, or it becomes an injustice. Why, for +instance, did the unwise negrophile propose to protect the Jamaica negro +against the Indian coolie? Because Niger wants it? Pure ignorance and +prejudice of gentlemen who stay at home! Though physically and mentally +weaker than Europeans, the negro can hold his own, as Sá Leone proves, by +that combination which enables cattle to resist lions. Japhet Albus is by +nature aggressive; if not, he would not now be dwelling in the tents of +Shem and the huts of Ham. He feels towards Contrarius Albo as the +game-cock regards the dunghill-fowl. Displays of this sentiment on the +part of the white population must be repressed; but this should be done +fairly and without passion. + +I do not for a moment regret our philanthropical move, despite its awful +waste of life and gold. England, however can do her duty to Africa without +cant, and humbug, and nonsense about the 'sin and crime of slavery.' +Serfdom, like cannibalism and polygamy, are the steps by which human +society rose to its present status: to abuse them is ignorantly to kick +down the ladder. The spirit of Christianity may tend to abolish servitude; +but the letter distinctly admits it, and the translators have unfairly +rendered 'slave' and 'bondsman' by 'servant,' which is absurd. England can +fight, if necessary, against a traffic which injures the free man, but she +might abstain from abusing those who do not share her opinions. The +anti-slavery party has hitherto acted rather from sentiment than from +reason; and Mr. Buckle was right in determining that morality must be +ruled by, and not rule, intellect. We have one point in our favour. The +_dies atra_ between 1810-20, when a man could not speak what he thought +upon the subject of slavery, ended as the last slave left the West African +coast; and yet I doubt whether the day is yet come when we can draw upon +the great labour-bank of Africa and establish that much-wanted +institution, the black _ouvrier libre_. + +There are several classes interested in pitting black man against white +man. An unscrupulous missionary will, for his own ends, preach resistance +to time-honoured customs and privileges which Niger has himself accepted. +An unworthy lawyer will urge litigation; a dishonest judge or +police-magistrate will make popularity at the expense of equity and +honour; a weak-minded official will fear the murmurs, the complaints, and +the memorials of those under him, and the tomahawking which awaits him +from the little army of negrophiles at home. But the most dangerous class +of all is the mulatto; he is everywhere, like wealth, _irritamenta +malorum_. The 'bar sinister,' and the fancy that he is despised, fill him +with ineffable gall and bitterness. Inferior in physique to his black, and +in _morale_ to his white, parent, he seeks strength by making the families +of his progenitors fall out. Had the Southern States of America deported +all the products of 'miscegenation,' instead of keeping them in servitude, +the 'patriarchal institution' might have lasted to this day instead of +being prematurely abolished. + +My first visit to Sá Leone showed me the root of all her evils. There is +hardly a peasant in the peninsula. Had the 'colony-born' or older +families, the 'King-yard men,' or recaptives, and the creoles, or children +of liberated Africans, been apprenticed and compelled to labour, the +colony would have become a flourishing item of the empire. Now it is the +mere ruin of an emporium; and the people, born and bred to do nothing, +cannot prevail upon themselves to work. But the 'improved African' has an +extra contempt for agriculture, and he is good only at destruction. Rice +and cereals, indigo and cotton, coffee and arrowroot, tallow-nuts and +shea-butter, squills and jalap, oil-palms and cocoas, ginger, cayenne, and +ground-nuts are to be grown. Copal and bees'-wax would form articles of +extensive export; but the people are satisfied with maize and roots, +especially the cassava, which to Sá Leone is a curse as great as the +potato has proved to Ireland. Petty peddling has ever been, and still is, +the 'civilised African's' _forte_. He willingly condemns himself to spend +life between his wretched little booth and his Ebenezer, to waste the week +and keep the Sabbath holy by the 'holloaing of anthems.' His _beau idéal_ +of life is to make wife and children work for, feed and clothe him, whilst +he lies in the shady piazza, removing his parasites and enjoying porcine +existence. His pleasures are to saunter about visiting friends; to grin +and guffaw; to snuff, chew, and smoke, and at times to drink +_kerring-kerry_ (_cańa_ or _caxaça_), poisonous rum at a shilling a +bottle. Such is the life of ignoble idleness to which, by not enforcing +industry, we have condemned these sable tickets-of-leave. + +Before quitting the African coast I diffidently suggested certain steps +towards regenerating our unhappy colony. For the encouragement of +agriculture I proposed a tax upon small shopkeepers and hucksters, who, by +virtue of sitting behind a few strings of beads or yards of calico, call +themselves traders and merchants. This measure, by-the-by, was attempted +in 1879 by Governor Rowe, but the strong opposition compelled him to +withdraw it. I would have imposed a heavy tax upon all grog-shop licenses, +and would have allowed very few retail-shops in the colony. +Police-magistrates appeared to me perfectly capable of settling disputes +and of punishing offenders. I would have discouraged the litigation which +the presence of lawyers and a bench suggests, and which causes such +heartburn between Europeans and Africans. I would have established a Court +of Summary Jurisdiction, and never have allowed a black jury to 'sit upon' +a white man, or _vice versâ_; and in the case of a really deserving negro +or mulatto I would rather see him appointed Lord-Lieutenant of Ireland +than Governor or Secretary of Sá Leone. + +On my last journey I met the Hon. Mr. T. Risely Griffith, a West Indian +and Colonial Secretary at Sá Leone. He kindly read what I had written +about the white man's Grave, and found it somewhat harsh and bitter. At +the same time he gave me, with leave to use, his valuable lecture +delivered before the Royal Colonial Institute. [Footnote: _The Colonies +and India_, a weekly newspaper. London: December 17, 1881.] Making +allowance for the official _couleur de rose_, and reading between the +lines, I found that he had stated, in parliamentary language, what had +been told by me in the rude tongue of a traveller. The essay, he assured +me, had been well received at Sá Leone; and yet, to my knowledge, the +newspapers of the western coast had proposed to make it the subject of an +'indignation-meeting.' + +Hear what Mr. Griffith has to say upon the crucial question--agriculture. +'The ordinary observer cannot fail to be impressed with the great number +of traders and hawkers. In the peninsula of Sierra Leone there are +returned 53,862; of these, traders and hawkers number 10,250, or about 19 +per cent., or, including hucksters, 23 per cent. Little good can result to +a country as long as one-fourth of its people are dependent for their +livelihood for what they sell to the remaining three-quarters.... The same +tendency to engage in the work of distribution rather than the production +of wealth seems to be a general characteristic of the negro race. + +'The real number of artisans or mechanics who have any right to the term +is very limited; and it is to be regretted that in Sierra Leone, where the +people are apt to learn, and tolerably quick to apply, there is not a +greater number of thorough workmen to teach their handicrafts and make +them examples for the rising generation. A youth who has been two years +with a carpenter, boat-builder, blacksmith, or mason, arrogates the name +to himself without compunction, and frequently, whilst he is learning from +an indifferent teacher the rudiments of his trade, he sets up as a master. +There is hardly a single trade that can turn out half a dozen men who +would be certificated by any European firm for possessing a thorough +knowledge of it. Of all trades in Sierra Leone, and certainly in Freetown, +that of tailoring is the most patronised, but this arises from the love of +dress, which is inherent. + +'The proper cultivation of the soil is, and must always be, the true +foundation of prosperity in any country. The shop cannot flourish unless +the farm supports it, and the friends of the colony regard with anxiety +the centralisation of capital at Freetown. I have been gratified, however, +to notice that the desire to acquire land and cultivate it has lately +increased to a very great extent, and I regard it as a very hopeful sign +for the future. The people still want two things, capital and scientific +agricultural knowledge. The native implements are of the rudest +kind--their hoes little more than sufficient to scratch the ground, and +their only other implement a cutlass to cut down the bush. Ploughs are +unknown, and spades very little used. Wheelbarrows are detested, although +they are not quite unknown; the people would sooner "tote" the soil in a +box on their heads, and instances are on record where the negro has +"toted" the wheelbarrow itself, wheel, handle, and all.' + +Mr. Griffith further informs us that the Colonial Government is desirous +of fostering and encouraging agriculture; that it proposes to establish, +or rather to re-establish, a model farm; that lands have been granted at a +trifling sum to Mr. William Grant on condition of his devoting capital and +labour to the development of agriculture; that Mr. Thomas Bright has laid +out a coffee and cocoa farm at Murray Town; and that Mr. Samuel Lewis, a +barrister-at-law, universally well spoken of, is engaged in cultivation, +with a view of studying the best methods and of influencing his +fellow-countrymen in favour of agricultural pursuits. Major Bolton also is +working the land seventeen miles down coast, and planting cocoa-nuts, +chocolate, and Kola-trees. The latter, when ten years old, are said each +to fetch 15_l_. per annum. Here, therefore, we have at least a beginning. + +During the discussion on Mr. Griffith's lecture, some home-truths were +told by the Hon. Mr. Grant, [Footnote: This 'eminent African,' who had +gone to England with the view of buying agricultural implements and an +ice-machine, died in London on January 28, 1881. His speech, therefore, +was delivered only a week or so before his death. Much fulsome praise of +him followed in the press, which seemed completely surprised that a black +man could talk common sense.] a full-blooded negro, of the Ibo tribe, and +a member of the Sierra Leone Legislative Council. He objected to the term +'white man's Grave.' He bravely and truly told his audience that if the +French held possession of Sá Leone they would have made it a 'different +thing.' After praising the present Governor's instruction-ordinance he +spoke these remarkable words:-- + +'But education from the point I allude to is that practical education +which develops the man and makes him what he is, not the education which +makes him simply the blind imitator of what he is not. Of course the +education, as originally introduced into the colony, was an experiment, +and a grand experiment it was. They said, "There are these people, and we +will educate them as ourselves." It was a good idea, but it was defective, +because there is as great a difference between the negro and the white man +as there can be. He is capable of doing anything that the white man can +do; but then, to get him to do that, you must educate him in himself. You +must bring him out by himself: you must not educate him otherwise. He must +be educated to carry out a proper and distinct course for himself. The +complaint has been general of the want of success in the education of the +negro; but it is not his fault: the fault is from the defect of his +education. He fancies, by the sort of education which you give him, that +he must imitate you in everything--act like you, dress in broadcloth like +you, and have his tall black hat like you. Then you see the result is that +he is not himself; he confuses himself, and when he comes to act within +himself as a man he is confused, and you find fault that he has not +improved as he ought to do. But if he is properly educated you will find +him of far greater assistance to you than you have any idea of.' + +The remarks on agriculture and on capital were equally apposite; and +Captain Cameron remarked that these were the 'truest words of wisdom about +Africa that it ever was his lot to hear.' They will leave a sweet savour +in the reader's mouth after a somewhat acid chapter. + +But the ingrained idleness of generations is not so easily cleared away. +The real cure for Sá Leone will be an immigration of Chinese or of Indian +coolies, that will cheapen labour and enable men of capital to farm on a +large scale. It may be years before agriculture supplants trade with its +light work and ready profits; but the supplanting process itself will do +good. At present Sá Leone finds it cheaper to import salt from England +than to lay out a salina, and to make an article of commerce which finds +its way into the furthest interior. Immigration, I repeat, is the sole +panacea for the evils which afflict the Lioness Range. + + + +CHAPTER XIII. + +FROM SÁ LEONE TO CAPE PALMAS. + +Frowsy old Sá Leone bestowed on us a parting smile. After a roaring +tornado at night and its terminal deluge, the morning of January 19 broke +clear and fine. We could easily trace, amongst the curious series of +volcanic cones, the three several sanitary steps on the Leicester or +Lioness Hill. These are, first the hospice of the French Jesuits, now +officers' quarters; then a long white shed, the soldiers' hospital; and +highest (1,700 feet) the box which lodges their commandant. Even the +seldom-seen 'Sugarloaf' was fairly outlined against the mild blue vault. +Although the withering hand of summer was on the scene, the old +charnel-house looked lovely; even the low lines of the Bullom shore +borrowed a kind of beauty from the air. The hues were those of Heligoland +set in frames of lapis lazuli above and of sapphire below; golden sand, +green strand of silky Bermuda-grass, and red land showing chiefly in banks +and thready paths. Again we admired the dainty and delicate beauties of +the shore about Pirate Bay and other ill-named sites. Then bidding adieu +to the white man's Red Grave and steering south-west, we gave a wide berth +to the redoubted 'Carpenter,' upon which the waves played; to the shoals +of St. Anne, and to a multitude of others which line the coast as far as +that treacherous False Cape and lumpy Cape Shelling or Shilling, whose +prolongation is the Banana group. + +Sherbro, fifty miles distant, was passed at night. Then (sixty miles) came +the Gallinas River, a great centre of export, which has not forgotten +Pedro Blanco. This prince of slavers, whose establishment appears on the +charts of 1836-38, imported no goods; he bought cargoes offered to him and +he paid them by bills on England, drawing, says the Coast scandal, upon +two Quaker brothers at Liverpool. Not a little curious that our country +supplied the money both to carry on the _traite_ and to put it down. Three +miles south of the Gallinas the Sulaymá River flows in. Here the scenery +suggests a child's first attempt at colouring in horizontal lines; a +dangerous surf ever foams white upon the yellow shore, bearing an eternal +growth of green. Two holes in the bush and a few thatched roofs, separated +by a few miles, showed the Harris factories, which caused frequent +teapot-storms between 1865 and 1878. The authorities of Liberia, model +claimants with a touch of savage mendicancy, demanded the land and +back-dues from time immemorial. 'Palaver' was at last 'set' by the late +lamented David Hopkins, consul for the Bights, in the presence of a +British cruiser and two American ships of war. + +The weather resumed its old mood, a mixture in equal parts of 'Smokes' and +of Harmatan or Scirocco. At noon next day we steamed by Cape Mount, the +northernmost boundary of Liberia, [Footnote: The 'liberateds' of Liberia, +who lose nothing by not asking, claim the shore from the Sam Pedro River +southwards to the Jong, an affluent of the Shebar or Sherbro stream, 90 +miles north of Cape Mount. We admit their pretensions as far only as the +Sugary River, four miles above the Máfá (Mafaw), or Cape Mount stream.] a +noble landmark and a place with a future. Approaching it, we first see the +dwarf bar of the Máfá, draining a huge lagoon ('Fisherman's Lake'). On the +banks and streams are sundry little villages, Kru Town and Port Robert, +the American mission-ground. The harbour is held to be the first of five, +the others being Monrovia; Grand Bassá (Bassaw), with Edina; Sinou, and +Cape Palmas. + +The Mount is an isolated rocky tongue rising suddenly like an island from +the low levels, and trending north-west to south-east. The site is +perfectly healthy; the ground is gravel, not clay, and the stone is +basalt. The upper heights are forested and full of game; the lower are +cleared and await the colonist. With the pure and keen Atlantic breeze +ever blowing over it, the Mount is a ready-made sanatorium. Its youth has +been disreputable. Here Captain Canot, [Footnote: _Wanderings in West +Africa_, vol. i. chap. v.] the Franco-Italian lieutenant of Pedro Blanco, +sold the coast till compelled by H.M. cruisers to fall back upon honest +trade. His name survives in 'Canot's Tree,' under whose shade he held his +palavers. Let us hope that the respectable middle age of Cape Mount will +be devoted to curing the sick coaster. + +Beyond this fine headland, a handsome likeness of Holyhead seen from the +south, stretch the long, low, dull shores of Liberia, canopied by unclean +skies and based on dirty-looking seas. The natives, who, as usual, are new +upon the coast, and who preserve curious traditions about their +predecessors, are the Vái (not Vei), a Mandengan race still pagan. They +call, however, the world 'duniyá,' and the wife 'námúsi,' words which show +whence their ideas are derived. Their colour is lighter than the Kruman's; +there are pretty faces, especially amongst the girlish boys, and the fine +feet and delicate hands are those of 'les Gabons.' And they are +interesting on two other counts. Their language combines the three several +forms of human speech, the isolating (_e.g._ 'love'), the agglutinating +('lovely'), and the polysynthetic ('loving,' 'loved'). Furthermore they +developed an alphabet, or rather a syllabary, which made much noise +amongst missionary 'circles,' and concerning which Lt. Forbes, R.N., Mr. +Norris, and Herr Koelle wrote abundant nonsense. Its origin is still +unknown. Some attribute it to direct inspiration (whatever that may mean), +others to marks traced upon the sand originally by boys stealing +palm-wine. My belief is that the suggestion came from the Moslems. Of late +years it has been waxing obsolete, and few care to write their letters in +it. + +The Vái, who extend as far as Little Cape Mount River, are depicted in a +contrast of extremes. Mr. H. C. Creswick, [Footnote: Late manager of the +'Gold Coast Mining Company.' Mr. Creswick treated the subject in 'Life +amongst the Veys' (_Trans. Ethnol. Soc. of London_, 1867). He tells at +full length the curious legend of their immigration, and notes the same +reverence for the crocodile which prevails at Dixcove and prevailed in +Egypt.] who long dwelt amongst them, and dealt with them from Cape Mount, +gives a high character to those who have not been perverted by +civilisation. He found the commonalty civil, kind, and hospitable; active +and industrious, to a certain extent. Their palm-oil is the best on the +coast, and can be drunk like that of the olive or the cod-liver. The +chiefs he describes as gentlemen. The missionaries assert that they are +wholly without morals, never punishing the infringement of marital rights; +petty thieves, and idle and feckless to the last degree. Certain Monrovia +men have laid out farms of coffee and _cacáo_ (chocolate) upon the St. +Paul River, which, heading in Mandenga-land, breaks the chord of the bay; +but nothing can induce these ex-pets or their congeners, the Golás and the +Pesis, to work. + +Like most of the coast-races, the Vái seem to be arrant cowards. The +headmen salute their visitors Arab-fashion, with flourishes of the sword; +but swording ends there. Of late they were attacked by the savages of the +interior, Gallinas, Pannis, and Kúsús. The latter, meaning the 'wolves' or +the 'wild boars,' is the popular nickname of the Mendi or Mindi tribes, +occupying the Sherbro-banks. They did excellent service in the last +Ashanti war (1873-74) by flogging forward the fugitive Fantis. Winwood +Keade, [Footnote: _The Story of the Ashanti Campaign_. Smith & Elder, +London, 1874. It is a thousand pities that the volume was pruned, to use +the mildest term. My friend's memory seems to brighten with the years, +doubtless the effect of his heroic honesty in telling what he held to be +the truth. His _Martyrdom of Man_, in which even his publisher did not +believe, has reached a fourth edition; it was quoted by Mr. Gladstone, and +Mrs. Grundy still buys it, in order to put it behind the fire.] an +excellent judge of Africans, declares that they are very courageous, 'keen +as mustard' for the fray. On the raid they creep up to and surround the +doomed village; they raise the war-cry shortly before sunrise, and, as the +villagers fly, they tell them by the touch. If the body feels warm after +sleep, unlike their own dew-cooled skins, it soon becomes a corpse. They +advance with two long knives, generally matchets, one held between the +teeth. They prefer the white arm because 'guns miss fire, but swords are +like the chicken's beak, that never fails to hit the grain.' Some 250 of +these desperadoes lately drove off 5,000 of the semi-civilised recreants +and took about 560 prisoners, including the 'King' of the Vái. + +After covering forty-three miles from Cape Mount we anchored (5 P.M.) in +the long, monotonous roll under Mount Mesurado. The name was probably +Monserrate, given by the early Portuguese. It is entitled the Cradle of +Liberia. The idea of restoring to Africa recaptured natives and manumitted +slaves was broached in 1770 by the Rev. Samuel Hopkins, of Newport, R.I. +The scheme for 'civilising and christianising' the natives assumed organic +form at Washington in 1816. In January 1820 the first emigrants embarked +from New York for 'Liberia.' The original grant of land was made (April +1822) to the 'American Society for Colonising the Free People of the +United States,' by King Peter and sundry chiefs of the Grain Coast, who +little knew what they were doing. The place was described in those days as +an Inferno, the very head and front of the export trade, the waters +swarming with slavers, the shore bearing forty slave-factories, and the +whole showing scenes of horror which made the site 'Satan's seat of +abominations.' It has now changed its nature with its name, and has become +the head-quarters of Dullness, that goddess who, we are assured, never +dies. + +Mesurado Mount, with the inverted cataract rushing white up its black +rocks, is a picturesque feature. Halfway clearings for coffee-plantations, +with a lime-washed bungalow, the President's country-quarters, lead to the +feathered and forested crest which bears the 'pharos.' This protection +against wreck is worse than nothing; it is lighted with palm-oil every +night, and then left to its own sweet will. Consequently the red glimmer, +supposed to show at thirteen miles, is rarely visible beyond three. A +dotting of white frame-houses and curls of blue smoke betray the capital. +It lurks behind the narrow sand-bar which banks the shallow and useless +Mesurado River, and few men land without an involuntary ablution in the +salt water. Usually the stream mouths by an ugly little bar at some +distance from the roadstead; after heavy rains it bursts the sand-strip +and discharges in straight line. + +We had visitors that evening from the Yankee-Doodle-niggery colony, +peopled by citizens who are not 'subjects.' Bishop C. C. Pinnock, absent +from his home at Cape Mount, dined with us and told me about the death of +an old friend, good Bishop Payne. His successor objects to learning and +talking native tongues, and he insists upon teaching English to all the +mission-scholars. His reasons are shrewd, if not convincing; for instance, +'most languages,' says the Right Reverend, 'have some term which we +translate "love." But "love" in English is not equivalent to its +representative in Kru or in Vái. Therefore by using their words I am +expressing their ideas; I bring them over to mine by the reverse process.' + +We shipped for Grand Bassá two citizens, a lawyer and an attorney. Of +course one was an 'Honourable;' [Footnote: Even the Coast English are +always confounding the Hon. John A. (son of a peer) with the Hon. Mr. A. +(official rank), and I have seen sundry civilians thus mis-sign +themselves.] as Mr. H. M. Stanley says, [Footnote: _Coomassie and +Magdala_. New York, Harpers, 1874.] 'mostly every other man is here so +styled.' They talked professionally of the 'Whig ticket' and the +'Re-publican party,' but they neither 'guess'd' nor 'kalklated,' and if +they wore they did not show revolvers and bowie-knives. They did not say, +'We air a go-ahead people,' they were not given to 'highfalutin',' nor did +they chew their tobacco. They were, however, accompanied by an extremely +objectionable 'infant,' aged seven, who lost no time in laying hands upon +Miss M.'s trinkets, by way of returning civility. Her father restored +them, treating the theft as a matter of course. + +The citizens gave me sundry details about the 'rubber'-trade, which began +in 1877. Monrovia now exports to England and the Continent some 100,000 +lbs., which sell at 1_s_. 4_d_. each. Gum-elastic is gathered chiefly by +the Bassá people, who are, however, too lazy to keep it clean; they store +it in grass-bags and transport it in canoes. Liberian coffee is, or rather +would be, famous if produced in sufficient quantities to satisfy demand. +At present it goes chiefly to the United States, where, like Mocha, it +serves to flavour burnt maize. Messieurs Spiers and Pond would buy any +quantity of it, and of late years Brazilian coffee-planters have taken +shoots to be grown at home. Here it fetches 1_s_. per lb.; in England the +price doubles. This coffee requires keeping for many months, or the +infusion is potent enough to cause the 'shakes;' it is the same with +Brazilian green tea. The bouquet is excellent, and the flavour pretty +good. There is a great difference in the shape of the beans, which range +between the broad flat Harar and the small, round, horny Mocha. + +I could obtain few details concerning the 'Black Devil Society,' which +suggests the old 'Know-nothings.' It has been, they say, somewhat active +in flogging strangers, especially Sá Leone men. Most of the latter, +however, have been expelled for refusing to change their style from +'subjects' to 'citizens'--a foreign word in English and Anglo-African +ears. + +At the time of our visit the republic was in a parlous state. H.E. Mr. +Gardiner, the new President, refused to swear in the Upper House, and the +Lower refused to acknowledge the Presidential authority. Consequently +business had been at a standstill for six weeks. We were disappointed in +our hopes of being accompanied by the Honourable Professor E. W. Blyden, +ex-minister to England and afterwards principal of the college. He had +travelled with Winwood Reade, and I looked forward to hearing the opinions +of an African Arabic scholar touching the progress and future of El-Islam +in the Dark Continent. That it advances with giant steps may be proved by +these figures. Between 1861 and 1862 I found at most a dozen Moslems at +Lagos; in 1865 the number had risen to 1,200, and in 1880, according to my +old friend M. Colonna, Agent Consulaire de France, it passes 10,000, +requiring twenty-seven mosques. + +The latest charts of Liberia show no less than twenty-six parallelograms +stretching inland, at various angles with the shore, and stated to have +been acquired by 'conquest or purchase' between 1822 and 1827; but the +natives, especially the Krumen, complain that after allowing the +foreigners to dwell, amongst them they have been despoiled of their +possessions, and that, once lords of the soil, they have sunk to mere +serfs. Hence the frequent wars and chronic bad blood. Every African +traveller knows the meaning of land-purchase in these regions. There are +two ideas peculiar to the negro brain, but apparently inadmissible into +European heads. The first is the non-alienation of land. Niger never parts +with his ground in perpetuity; he has always the mental reservation, while +selling it to a stranger, that the soil and its improvements return to him +by right after the death or the departure of the purchaser. Should the +settler's heirs or assignees desire to remain _in loco_, they are expected +to pay a fresh gratification; the lessor will raise his terms as high as +possible, but public opinion will oblige him to remain content with a +'dash,' or present, equivalent to that paid by the original lessee. + +The second idea is even more repugnant to European feelings. In Africa a +born chattel is a chattel for ever: the native phrase is, ''Pose man once +come up slave, he be slave all time.' There is no such thing as absolute +manumission: the unsophisticated _libertus_ himself would not dream of +claiming it. We have on board a white-headed negro in an old and +threadbare Dutch uniform, returning from Java on a yearly pension of +fifteen dollars. According to treaty he had been given by the King of +Ashanti to the Hollanders, and he had served them so long that he spoke +only Low German and Malay. He will be compelled to end his career +somewhere within the range of our fort-guns, or his owner's family will +claim and carry off their property. + +At 8 A.M. we steamed against a fine fresh wind past mount Mesurado _en +route_ for Grand Bassá (Bassaw), distant fifty-five miles. To port lies +Montserrado County, where the shore-strip looks comparatively high and +healthy. The Bassás begin some thirty miles below the Jong River, and now +we enter the regions of Grand, Middle, and Little Piccaninny +(_pequenino_), Whole and Half, _i.e._ half-way. Thus we pass, going +south-wards, Bassá, Middle Bassá, Grand Bassá, and Bassá Cove, followed by +Cestos and Cess, Settra and Sesters, Whole and Half. The coast is well +known, while the interior is almost unexplored. Probably there is no +inducement to attract strangers. + +We are grateful for small mercies, and note a picturesque view from the +open roadstead of Grand Bassá. The flats are knobbed with lumpy mounds; +North Saddle Hill, with its central seat; Tall Hill; the blue ridges of +the Bassá Hills, and St. John's Hill upon the line of its river. Nothing +can be healthier than these sites, which are well populated; and the +slopes are admirably fitted for that 'Arabian berry' whose proper home is +Africa. But, while hill-coffee has superior flavour lowland-coffee is +preferred in commerce, because the grain is larger and heavier. + +Grand Bassá is the only tract in Liberia where the Sá Leonite is still +admitted. The foreshore of yellow sand, pointed and dotted by lines and +falls of black rock, fronts a shallow bay as foul and stony as the coast. +Here are three settlements, parted by narrow walls of 'bush.' Edina, the +northernmost, is said to do more business than any other port in the +republic; she also builds fine, strong surf-boats of German and American +type, carrying from one to five tons. The keels are bow-shaped, never +straight-lined from stem to stern; and the breakers are well under the +craft before their mighty crests toss it aloft and fling it into the deep +trough. They are far superior to the boats with weather-boards in the fore +which formerly bore us to land. The crew scoop up the water as if digging +with the paddle; they vary the exercise by highly eccentric movements, and +they sing savage barcarolles the better to keep time. + +The middle settlement is Upper Buchanan, whose river, the St. John's, owns +a bar infamous as that of Lagos for surf and sharks. The southernmost, +Lower Buchanan, is defended by a long and broken wall of black reef, but +the village is far from smooth water. All these 'towns' occupy holes in a +curtain of the densest and tallest greenery. They are composed of groups +and scatters of whitewashed houses, half of them looking like chapels and +the other like toys. Each has its adjunct of brown huts, the native +quarter. These Bassá tribes must not be confounded with their neighbours +the Krumen; the languages are quite different, and the latter is of much +harsher sound. There is no doubt of this being a good place for engaging +labour, and it is hoped that in due time Bassá-hands, who work well, will +be engaged for the Gold Coast mines. At present, however, they avoid +English ships, call themselves 'Americans,' and willingly serve on board +the Yankee craft which load with coffee, cam-wood, and palm-oil. + +We steamed along the Cape, River, and Town of Sinou, the very home of the +Kráo, or Krumen, strictly speaking a small tribe. Returning +homeward-bound, we here landed a host of men from the Oil-rivers, greatly +to my delight, as they had cumbered the deck with their leaky powder-kegs, +amid which wandered the sailors, smoking unconcernedly. In the 'good old +times' this would not have been allowed. At least one poor fellow was +drowned, so careful were the relatives to embark the kit, so careless of +the owner's person. Next day we sighted the 'Garraway-trees,' silk cottons +some 200 feet high, fine marks for clearing the Cape shoals. Then came +Fishtown and Rocktown, once celebrated for the exploits of Ashmun and his +associates; and at 2.15 P.M. we anchored in the heavy Harmatan roll off + + The Cape of Palmas, called from palmy shade. + +A score of years ago the A.S.S. steamers lay within half a mile of shore; +and, 'barrin'' the ducking, it was easy to land. But the bay is bossed with +rocks and skirted with shoals; they lurk treacherously under water, and +have brought many a tall ship to grief. As for the obsolete hydrographic +charts, they only add to the danger. Two wrecks give us ample warning. One +is a German barque lying close to the bar of the fussy little river; the +other, a huge mass of rust, is the hapless _Yoruba_. Years ago, after the +fashion of the _Nigritia_ and the _Monrovia_, she was carelessly lost. +Though anchored in a safe place, when swinging round she hit upon a rock +and was incontinently ripped up; the injured compartment filled, and the +skipper ran her on the beach, wrecking her according to Act of Parliament. +They once managed to get her off, but she had not power to stem the seas, +and there she still lies high and dry. + +Cape Palmas, or Bamnepo, with its outlying islet-reef of black rock, on +which breaks an eternal surf, is the theoretical turning-point from the +Windward coast, which begins with the Senegal, to the Leeward, and which +ends in the Benin Bight. We are entering the region + + _Unde nigerrimus Auster_ + Nascitur. + +Practically and commercially the former is worked by the Bristol barques +and the latter commences at Cape Threepoints. The bold headland, a hundred +feet tall and half a mile broad by a quarter long, bounded north by its +river, has a base of black micaceous granite supporting red argillaceous +loam. Everywhere beyond the burning of the billows the land-surface is +tapestried with verdure and tufted with cocoas; they still show the +traditional clump which gave the name recorded by Camoens. The neck +attaching the head to the continent-body is a long, low sand-spit; and the +background sweeps northward in the clear grassy stretches which African +travellers agree to call 'parks.' These are fronted by screens of tall +trees, and backed by the blue tops of little hills, a combination which +strongly reminded me of the Gaboon. + +The prominent building is still the large white-washed mission-house with +its ample windows and shady piazzas: the sons of St. Benedict could not +have placed it better. In rear lies the square tower yclept a lighthouse, +and manipulated like that of Monrovia; its range is said to be thirteen +miles, but it rarely shows beyond five. An adjacent flagstaff bears above +the steamer-signal the Liberian arms, stripes and a lone star not unknown +to the ages between Assyria and Texas. The body of the settlement lying +upon the river is called Harper, after a 'remarkable negro,' and its +suburbs lodge the natives. When I last visited it the people were rising +to the third stage of their architecture. The first, or nomad, is the hide +or mat thrown over a bush or a few standing sticks; then comes the +cylinder, the round hovel of the northern and southern regions, with the +extinguisher or the oven-shaped thatch-roof; and, lastly, the square or +oblong form which marks growing civilisation. The American missionaries +laboured strenuously to build St. Mark's Hospital and Church, the latter a +very creditable piece of lumber-work, with 500 seats in nave and aisles. +But now everything hereabouts is 'down in its luck.' This puerile copy, or +rather caricature, of the United States can console itself only by saying, +'Spero meliora.' + + + +CHAPTER XIV. + +FROM CAPE PALMAS TO AXIM. + +I had no call to land at Cape Palmas. All my friends had passed away; the +Rev. C. E. Hoffman and Bishop Payne, both in America. Mr. Potter, of the +stores, still lives to eat rice and palm-oil in retirement; but with the +energetic Macgill departed the trade and prosperity of the place. Senator +John Marshall, of Marshall's Hotel, has also gone to the many, and the +stranger's only place of refuge is a mean boarding-house. + +Much injury was done to the settlement by the so-called 'Grebo war.' These +wild owners of Cape Palmas are confounded by Europeans with the true +Krumen, their distant cousins. The tribal name is popularly derived from +_gré_, or _gri_, the jumping monkey, and it alludes to a late immigration. +A host of some 20,000 savages closely besieged the settlement and ravaged +all the lands belonging to the intruders, especially the fine 'French +farm.' Fighting ended with a 'treaty of peace and renewal of allegiance' +(_sic!_) at Harper on March 1, 1876, following the 'battle of Harper' +(October 10, 1875). The latter, resulting from an attack on Grebo Big +Town, proved a regular 'Bull's Run,' wherein the citizens lost all their +guns and ammunition, and where the Grebes slaughtered my true and trusty +steward, Selim Agha. + +I must allow myself a few lines in memory of a typical man. Selim was a +Nubian of lamp-black skin; but his features were Semitic down to the +nose-bridge, and below it, like the hair, distinctly African: this mixture +characterises the negroid as opposed to the negro. In the first fourth of +the present century he was bought by Mr. Thurburn--_venerabile nomen_--of +Alexandria, and sent for education to North Britain. There he learned to +speak Scotch, to make turtle-soup, to stuff birds, to keep accounts, and +to be useful and valuable in a series of ways. Then his thoughts, full of +philanthropy, turned towards the 'old mother.' The murder of Dr. Barth's +companion, Vogel, in 1856, originated seven fruitless expeditions to +murderous Wadáy, and he made sundry journeys into the interior. I believe +that he took service for some time with Lieutenant (now Sir John H.) +Glover before he became my factotum between 1860 and 1865. When I left the +Coast he transferred himself to Liberia, where, he wrote, they proposed to +'run him for the presidency.' Selim joined the Monrovians during the Grebo +war as an assistant-surgeon, his object being to mitigate the horrors of +the campaign; and he met his death on October 9, 1875, during the +mismanaged attack on Grebo Big Town. Captain A. B. Ellis, in his amusing +and outspoken 'West African Sketches,' quotes from the 'Liberian +Independent' the following statement: 'Mr. Selim Agha was also overtaken +by the barbarous Greboes, and one of them, "Bye Weah" by name, after +allowing him to read his Bible, which he had by him in his pocket, and +which he made a present of to the barbarian, chopped his body all about, +chopped off his head, which he took to his town with eighteen others, and +threw the body with the gift into the swamp.' The account sounds +trustworthy, especially that about the Bible: it is exactly what the poor +fellow would have done. But many have assured me that he was slaughtered +by mistake during the rout of his party. R.I.P. + +Another reminiscence. + +Although it has melancholy associations, I can hardly remember without a +smile my last visit to good Bishop Payne. He led me to the mission-school, +a shed that sheltered settles and desks, tattered books, slates and +boards, two native pedagogues, and two lines of pupils sized from the +right, the biggest being nearest the 'boss.' We took our places upon the +bench, and the catechiser, when bade to begin, opened, after a little +hesitation, as follows:-- + + _Q_. Who he be de fuss man?--_A_. Adam. + _Q_. Who he be de fuss woman?--_A_. Ebe. + _Q_. Whar de Lord put 'em?--_A_. In de garden. + _Q_. What he be de garden?--_A_. Eden. + _Q_. What else he be dere?--_A_. De sarpint. + _Q_. What he be de sarpint?--_A_. De snake. + _Q_. Heigh! What, de snake he 'peak?--_A_. No, him be debbil. + +And so forth. The reading was much in the same style. The whole scene +reminded me of a naďve narrative [Footnote: _The Gospel to the Africans: +Narrative of the Life and Labours of the Rev. William Jameson._ London: +Hamilton, Adams, & Co., 1861.] which gives the 'following account of the +fall of our First Parents from the lips of an aged negro at the +examination of candidates:'-- + +'Massa (God) said Adam must nyamee (eat) all de fruit ob de garden, but +(be out, except) de tree of knowledge. And he said to Adam, "Adam! you no +muss nyamee dis fruit, else you dead." De serpent come to say to Mammy +Eve, "Dis fruit berry good; he make you too wise." Mammy she take lillee +(little) bit, and bring de oder harf gib Daddy Adam. Daddee no will taste +it fuss time, but Mammy tell him it be berry good. Den him nyamee de oder +harf. Den Daddy and Mammy been know dat dem be naked. Dey go hide for +bush. Massa come from heaven, but Him no fin' Adam all about. Den Massa +strike Him foot on de ground and say, "I wage Adam been nyamee de fruit." +Massa go seek Adam and fin' him hidin' in de bush, and put him out ob de +garden. Then Daddy and Mammy dey take leaves and sew 'em for clothes.' + +The Bishop looked on approvingly. We then spoke of the mysterious Mount +Geddia, the Lybian Thala Oros of Ptolemy. [Footnote: Lib. iv. 6, §§ 12, +14, 16, the home of the Thála tribe.] + +The people say that it may be seen at times from Settra Kru, that the +distance by round road is some 200 miles, and that none have ascended it +on account of the intense cold. If this be fact, there is a Kilima-njáro +18,000 feet high in Western Africa. The glitter of the white cap has been +visible from great distances, and some would explain it by a bare vein of +quartz--again, Kilima-njáro. The best time to travel would be in October +or November, after the rains; and the Grebo rascals might be paid and +persuaded to supply an escort. + +At Cape Palmas we engaged thirty so-called Krumen: only seven were ready +to accompany us, and the rest came nearly two months behind time. This is +the farming season, and the people do not like to leave their field-lands. +Jack Davis, headman, chief, crimp and 'promising' party, had been warned +to be ready by Mr. R. B. N. Walker, whose name and certificate he wore +upon a big silver crescent; but as _Senegal_ appeared on Sunday instead of +Saturday, he gravely declared that his batch had retired to their +plantations--in black-man's English, 'small countries.' We were compelled +to make an advance, a measure unknown of old, and to pay more than double +hire for working on the Gold Coast. These races, Kruboys, Grebos, and +their cognates, have not improved during the last score of years. Their +headmen were old hands approaching the fifties: now they are youths of +twenty-five. The younger sort willingly engaged for three years; now they +begin to notch their tallies for every new moon, and they wax home-sick +after the tenth month. Once they were content to carry home a seaman's +chest well filled with 'chow-chow' and stolen goods; in these days they +must have ready money to deal with the Bristol barques. + +Having before described the 'Kráo' and the Kru republic, with its four +recognised castes, I need not repeat myself. [Footnote: _Wanderings_, &c., +vol. ii. chap. vi., which ends with a short specimen of the language.] We +again admired the magnificent development of muscle, which stood out in +bunches as on the Farnese Hercules, set off by the most appropriate dress, +a coloured oblong of loin-cloth, tucked in at the waist. We marvelled too +at the contrast of Grecian figure and cynocephalous features, whose +frizzly thatch, often cut into garden-plots, is unnecessarily protected by +a gaudy greasy cap. + +In morals too these men are as peculiar as they are contradictory. They +work, and work well: many old Coasters prefer them to all other tribes. +They are at their best in boats or on board ship, especially ships of war, +where they are disciplined. For carrying burdens, or working in the bush, +they are by no means so valuable and yet, as will be seen, they are highly +thought of by some miners in the Gold Mines. In the house they are at +their worst; and they are a nuisance to camp, noisy and unclean. Their +chief faults are lying and thieving; they are also apt to desert, to grow +discontented, to presume, and ever to ask for more. These qualities are +admirably developed in our headman, Toby Johnson, and his gang. I should +not travel again with Krumen on the Gold Coast. + +Another of their remarkable characteristics is the fine union of the +quarrelsome with the cowardly. Like the Wányamwezi of East-Central Africa, +they will fight amongst themselves, and fight furiously; but they feel no +shame in telling their employers that they sell their labour, not their +lives; that man can die but once; that heads never grow again, and that to +battling they prefer going back to 'we country.' If a ship take fire all +plunge overboard like seals, and the sound of a gun in the bush makes them +run like hares. Yet an English officer actually proposed to recruit a +force of these recreants for field-service in Ashanti. He probably +confounded them with the Wásawahili, the 'Seedy-boys' of the east coast, a +race which some day will prove useful when the Sepoy mutiny shall repeat +itself, or if the difficulties in Egypt be prolonged. A few thousands of +these sturdy fellows would put to flight an army of hen-hearted Hindús or +Hindís. + +We left Cape Palmas at 5 P.M., and duly respected the five-fathom deep +'Athole Rock,' so called from the frigate which first made its +acquaintance. The third victim was the B. and A. s.s. _Gambia_ (Captain +Hamilton). [Footnote: Curiously enough a steamer carrying another fine of +palm-oil has come to grief, owing, as usual, to imperfect charts.] She was +carrying home part of the 400 puncheons exacted, after the blockade of +1876, by way of fine, from Gelelé, King of Dahome, by the senior naval +officer, Captain Sullivan, the Dhow-chaser. The Juju-men naturally declared +that their magic brought her to such notable grief. + +We then passed Grand Tabú (Tabou), in the middle of the bay formed by +Point Tahou--a coast better known fifty years ago than it is now. The only +white resident is Mr. Julio, who has led a rather accidented life. A +native of St. Helena, he fought for the Northerners in the American war, +and proved himself a first-rate rifle-shot. He traded on the Congo, and +travelled like a native far in the interior. Now he has married a wife +from Cape Palmas, and is the leading man at Tabú. + +This place, again, is a favourite labour-market. The return of the Krumen +repeats the spectacles of Sinou, and war being here chronic, the canoe-men +come off armed with guns, swords, and matchets. After a frightful storm of +tongues, and much bustle but no work, the impatient steamer begins to +waggle her screw; powder-kegs and dwarf boxes are tossed overboard, and +every attention is bestowed upon them; whilst a boy or two is left behind, +either to swim ashore or to find a 'watery grave.' + +Presently we sighted the bar and breakers that garnish the mouth of the +Cavally (Anglicč Cawally) River: the name is properly Cavallo, because it +lies fourteen miles, riding-distance, from Cape Palmas. Here Bishop Payne +had his head-quarters, and his branch missions extended sixty miles +up-stream. On the left bank, some fifteen or sixteen miles from the +_embochure_, resides the 'Grand Devil,' equivalent to the Great God, of +Krúland. The place is described as a large caverned rock, where a +mysterious 'Suffing' (something) answers, through an interpreter, any +questions in any tongue, even English, receiving, in return for the +revelations, offerings of beads, leaf-tobacco, and cattle, which are +mysteriously removed. The oracle is doubtless worked by some sturdy knave, +a 'demon-doctor,' as the missionaries call him, who laughs at the beards +of his implicitly-believing dupes. A tree growing near the stream +represents 'Lot's wife's pillar;' some sceptical and Voltairian black was +punished for impious curiosity by being thus 'translated.' Skippers who +treated their 'boys' kindly were allowed, a score of years ago, to visit +the place, and to join in the ceremonies, even as most of the Old Calabar +traders now belong to the 'Egbo mystery.' But of late years a village +called Hidya, with land on both banks, forbids passage. Moreover, Krumen +are not hospitable. Masters and men, cast ashore upon a coast which they +have visited for years to hire hands, are stripped, beaten, and even +tortured by women as well as by men. The savages have evidently not learnt +much by a century's intercourse with Europeans. + +Leaving Cavally, the last place where Kruboys can be shipped, we coasted +along the fiery sands snowed over with surf and set in the glorious +leek-green growth that distinguishes the old Ivory Coast. The great Gulf +Stream which, bifurcating at the Azores, sweeps southwards with easting, +now sets in our favour; it is, however, partly a wind-current, and here it +often flows to the west even in winter. The ever-rolling seas off this +'Bristol coast' are almost clear of reef and shoal, and the only storms +are tornadoes, which rarely blow except from the land: from the ocean they +are exceedingly dangerous. Such conditions probably suggested the Bristol +barque trade, which still flourishes between Cape Palmas and Grand Bassam. +A modern remnant of the old Bristolian merchant-adventurers, it was +established for slaving purposes during the last century by Mr. Henry +King, maintained by his sons, Richard who hated men-of-war, and William +who preferred science, and it is kept up by his grandsons for legitimate +trade. + +The ships--barques and brigs--numbering about twenty-five, are neat, +clean, trim craft, no longer coppered perpendicularly [Footnote: Still +occurs sometimes: the idea is that as they roll more than they sail less +strain is brought on the seams of the copper.] instead of horizontally +after the older fashion. Skippers and crews are well paid for the voyage, +which lasts from a year to fifteen months. The floating warehouses anchor +off the coast where it lacks factories, and pick up the waifs and strays +of cam-wood, palm-oil, and kernels, the peculiar export of the Gold Coast: +at times a tusk or a little gold-dust finds its way on board. The trader +must be careful in buying the latter. Not only have the negroes falsified +it since the days of Bosnian, but now it is made in Birmingham. This false +dust resists nitric acid, yet is easily told by weight and bulk; it blows +away too with the breath, whilst the true does not. Again, the skippers +have to beware of 'fetish gold,' mostly in the shape of broken-up +ornaments of inferior ley. + +The Bristolians preserve the old 'round trade,' and barter native produce +against cloth and beads, rum and gin, salt, tobacco, and gunpowder. These +ship-shops send home their exports by the mail-steamers, and vary their +monotonous days by visits on board. They sail home when the cargoes are +sold, each vessel making up her own accounts and leaving 'trust,' but no +debts. The life must be like making one's home in a lighthouse, plus an +eternal roll; and the line gives a weary time to the mail-steamers, as +these never know exactly where the Bristol barques will be found. + +After hugging the coast and prospecting Biribi, we sighted the Drewins, +whose natives are a powerful and spirited race, equally accustomed to +either element. There are no better canoe-men on the coast. They ship +only on board the Bristol ships, and they have more than once flogged a +cruel skipper caught ashore. Passing King George's Town, we halted (11 +A.M., January 23) opposite the river and settlement of Fresco, where two +barques and a cutter were awaiting supplies. Fresco-land is beautified by +perpendicular red cliffs, and the fine broad beach is feathered with +cocoas which suggest _kopra_--the dried meat of the split kernel. At 3.15 +P.M. came Grand Lahou--Bosman's Cabo La Hoe--180 miles from Cape Palmas. +The native settlements of nut-brown huts in the clearings of thick forests +resemble heaps of withered leaves. The French have re-occupied a fort +twenty miles up the pretty barless river, the outlet of a great lagoon; it +was abandoned during the Prusso-Gallic war. Nine Bristol barques were +lying off Three Towns, a place not upon the chart, and at Half-Jack, 205 +miles from the Cape. Here we anchored and rolled heavily through the +night, a regular seesaw of head and heels. Seamen have prejudices about +ships, pronouncing some steady and others 'uncommon lively.' I find them +under most circumstances 'much of a muchness.' + +The next morning carried us forty miles along the Bassam country and +villages, Little, Piccaninny, and Great, to Grand Bassam. It is a regular +lagoon-land, whose pretty rivers are the outlets of the several sweet +waters and the salt-ponds. Opposite Piccaninny Bassam heads, with its +stalk to the shore and spreading out a huge funnel eastward and westward, +the curious formation known as the 'Bottomless Pit.' The chart shows a +dot, a line, and 200 fathoms. In these days of deep-sea soundings I would +recommend it to the notice of the Hydrographic Office. We know exactly as +much about it in A.D. 1882 as in A.D. 1670, when Ogilvy wrote, 'Six miles +beyond Jak, in Jakko, [Footnote: Bosman's _Jaqui-Jaqui_] is the +_Bottomless Pit_, so called from its unfathomable deepness, for the +seamen, having Sounded with their longest Lines and Plummets, could never +reach the bottom.' It would be interesting to know whether it is an area +of subsidence or a volcanic depression. The adjacent Gold Coast suffers +from terrible earthquakes, as Accra learnt to her cost in 1862. + +At 10 A.M. we made Grand Bassam, where the French have had a _Résidence_ +for many years. Here the famous Marseille house of Régis Frčres first made +fortune by gold-barter. The precious ore, bought by the middlemen, a +peculiar race, from the wild tribes of the far interior, appears in the +shape of dust with an occasional small nugget; the traders dislike bars +and ingots, because they are generally half copper. We have now everywhere +traced the trade from Gambia to the Gold Coast, and we may fairly conclude +that all the metal comes from a single chain of Ghauts subtending the +maritime region. + +Grand Bassam is included in the French _Côte d'Or_, but not in the English +Gold Coast, which begins east of the Ivory Coast. The Dutch was even +narrower, according to Bosnian: 'Being a part of Guinea, it is extended +about sixty miles, beginning with the Gold River (Assini) twelve miles +above Axim, and ending with Ponni, seven or eight miles east of Accra.' +Grand Bassam has only two European establishments. Eastward lies the +'Blockhouse' of M. Verdier, 'agent of the Government at Assini,' so called +from its battlemented roof. It is the old Fort Nemours, built in 1843. The +'Poste,' abandoned during the war of 1870, was let to Messieurs Swanzy; it +is a series of ridge-roofs surrounded by a whitewashed stockade. Both have +been freely accused of supplying the Ashantis with arms and ammunition +during the last war. Similarly the Gambia is said to have supported the +revolteds of Senegal. The site is vile, liable to be flooded by sea and +rain. The River Akbu or Komo (Comoe), with its spiteful little bar, drains +the realms of Amatifú, King of Assini. It admits small craft, and we see +the masts of a schooner amid the trees. The outlet of immense lagoons to +the east and west, it winds down behind the factories, and bears the +native town upon its banks. Here we discharged only trade-gin, every +second surf-boat and canoe upsetting; the red cases piled upon the beach +looked like a bed of rose-buds. The whole of this coast, as far as Axim, +is so dangerous that men land with their lives in their hands. They +disembark when outward-bound and re-embark when homeward-bound, and in the +interim they never tempt surf and sharks. + +The _Senegal_ left Grand Bassam at 5.30 P.M., to cover the eighty-five +miles separating us from our destination. The next important feature is +the Assini River, also the outlet of enormous navigable lagoons, breaking +the continuity of forest-backed sands. It lies fourteen to fifteen miles +(which the chart has diminished to seven) west of the French settlement, +of old Fort Joinville. The latter shows a tiled and whitewashed +establishment, the property of M. Verdier, outlying the normal ant-hill of +brown huts. In 1868 Winwood Reade here found a _poste_ and stockade, a +park of artillery, a commandant, a surgeon, and a detachment of +_tirailleurs sénégalais_ levied amongst the warlike Moslem tribes of +Senegambia. Like Grand Bassam it was under the station admiral, who +inspected the two once a year, and who periodically sent a gunboat to +support French interests. + +By night we passed New Town, not on the charts, but famed for owning a +fine gold placer north of the town-lagoon. After my departure from the +coast it was inspected by Mr. Grant, who sent home specimens of bitumen +taken from the wells. Then came the two Assinis, eastern and western, both +places of small present importance. The 'Assini Hills' of the chart lie to +the north, not to the south of the Tando water; and by day one can easily +distinguish their broken line, blue and tree-clad. The Franco-English +frontier has been determined after a fashion. According to Mr. Stanford's +last map, [Footnote: Gold Coast, November 20, 1873. A foot-note tells us, +'The whole coast belongs to the English, the French having withdrawn since +1870 from Grand Bassam and Assini' (Winwood Reade). This is obsolete in +1882. The limits of Ashanti-land are immensely exaggerated by this map.] +the westernmost point was in west long. 2ş 55' (G.) Thus our territory +begins between Great Assini and New Town, the latter being included in the +Protectorate. This position would reduce the old Gold Coast from 245 +direct geographical miles of shore-line between the River Assini (W. long. +3ş 23') and the Volta mouth (E. long. 0ş 42') to some 217 or 220 in round +numbers. Inland the limit should be the Tando valley, but it has been +fancifully traced north from the Eyhi lagoon, the receptacle of the Tando, +on a meridian of W. long. 2ş 50' (G.) to a parallel of N. lat. 6ş 30', or +ninety-eight miles from the coast about Axim (N. lat. 4ş 52'). Thence it +bends east and south-east to the Ofim, or western fork of the Bosom Prah, +and ascends the Prah proper, separating Ashanti-land (north) from +Fanti-land (south). + +It should be our object to acquire by purchase or treaty, or both, the +whole territory subject to Grand Bassam and Assini. The reasons may be +gathered from the preceding pages. + +By night we also passed Cape Apollonia and its four hummocks, which are +faintly visible from Axim. The name has nothing to do, I need hardly say, +with Apollo or his feasts, the Apollonić, nor has it any relationship +with the admirable 'Apollinaris water.' It was given by the Portuguese +from the saint [Footnote: Butler's _Lives_ gives 'S. Apollonia (not +Appolonia, as the miners have it), v.m. February 9.' This admirable old +maid leaped into the fire prepared for her by the heathen populace of +Alexandria when she refused to worship their 'execrable divinity.' There +are also an Apollonius (March 5), 'a zealous holy anchorite' of Egyptian +Antinous; and Apollinaris, who about A.D. 376 began to 'broach his +heresy,' denying in Christ a human soul.] who presided over the day of +discovery. In the early half of the present century the King of Apollonia +ruled the coast from the Assini to the Ancobra Rivers; the English built a +fort by permission at his head-quarters, and carried on a large trade in +gold-dust. Meredith (1800) tells us that, when his Majesty deceased, some +twenty men were sacrificed on every Saturday till the 'great customs' took +place six months afterwards. The underlying idea was, doubtless, that of +Dahome: the potentate must not go, like a 'small boy,' alone and +unattended to the shadowy realm. The 'African Cruiser' [Footnote: _Journal +of an African Cruiser_, by an officer of the U.S. navy. Edited by +Nathaniel Hawthorn. Aberdeen: Clark and Son, 1848.] speaks of the royal +palace being sumptuously furnished in European style; of gold cups, +pitchers, and plates, and of vast treasures in bullion. When the King died +sixty victims were slain and buried with their liege lord; besides a +knife, plate, and cup; swords, guns, cloths, and goods of various kinds. +The corpse, smeared with oil and powdered _cap-ŕ-pié_ with gold-dust, +looked like a statue of the noble ore. + +As the _Senegal_ advanced under easy steam, we had no rolling off this +roller-coast, and we greatly and regretfully enjoyed the glorious Harmatan +weather, so soon about to cease. The mornings and evenings were cool and +dewy, and the pale, round-faced sun seemed to look down upon us through an +honest northern fog. There was no heat even during the afternoons, usually +so close and oppressive in this section of the tropics. I only wished that +those who marvelled at my preferring to the blustering, boisterous weather +of the Northern Adriatic the genial and congenial climate of West Africa +could have passed a day with me. + + + +CHAPTER XV. + +AXIM, THE GOLD PORT OF THE PAST AND THE FUTURE. + +All the traveller's anxiety about the Known and apprehensions of the +Unknown fell from him like a garment as, after passing the hummocks of +Apollonia, his destination, Axim, [Footnote: The port lies in N. lat. 4ş +52' 20" (say 5ş round numbers) and in W. long. (Gr.) 2ş 14' 45": it must +not be confounded, as often occurs in England, with 'Akim,' the region +north of Accra.] peeped up over the port-bow at dawn of the 25th of +January. + +The first aspect of Axim is charming; there is nothing more picturesque +upon this coast. + +After the gape of the Ancobra River the foreshore gradually bends for a +few miles from a west-east to a north-south rhumb, and forms a bay within +a bay. The larger is bounded north by Akromasi Point, the southern wall of +the great stream; the bold foreland outlain with reefs and a rock like a +headless sphinx, is known from afar, east and west, by its 'one tree,' a +palm apparently double, the leader of a straggling row. On the south of +the greater bay is Point Pépré, by the natives called Inkubun, or +Cocoanut-Tree, from a neighbouring village; like the Akromasi foreland, it +is black and menacing with its long projection of greenstone reefs, whose +heads are hardly to be distinguished from the flotilla of fishing canoes. +The lesser bay, that of Axim proper, has for limits Pépré and the Bosomato +promontory, a bulky tongue on whose summit is a thatched cottage. + +The background of either bay is a noble forest, a wall of green, the items +being often 150 feet high, with branchless white boles of eighty, +perpendicularly striping the verdure. The regular sky-line--broken by tall +knolls and clumps, whose limits are rivulet-courses and bosky dells; +thrown up by refraction; flecked with shreds of heavy mist + + That like a broken purpose waste in air; + +and dappled with hanging mists, white as snow, and 'sun-clouds,' as the +natives term the cottony nimbus--is easily mistaken, in the dim light of +dawn, for a line of towering cliffs. + +The sea at this hour is smooth as oil, except where ruffled by +fish-shoals, and shows comparatively free, today at least, from the long +Atlantic roll which lashes the flat coast east of Apollonia. Its selvage +is fretted by green points, golden sands, and a red cove not unlike the +crater-port of Clarence, Fernando Po. The surface is broken by two islets, +apparently the terminal knobs of many reefs which project westward from +the land. To the north rises Asiniba ('Son of Asini'), a pyramid of rock +below and tree-growth above. Fronting the landing-place is Bobowusúa, +[Footnote: The Hyd. Chart calls them Suaba and Bobowassi; it might be a +trifle more curious in the matter of significant words.] or Fetish Island, +a double feature which we shall presently inspect. The foreshore is barred +and dotted perpendicularly by black reefs and scattered _diabolitos_, or +detached hard-heads, which break the surges. At spring-tides, when rise +and fall reach at least ten feet, and fourteen in the equinoctial ebb and +flow, it appears a gridiron of grim black stone. [Footnote: Not as the +Hyd. Chart says--'rise and fall at springs six or seven feet.'] + +The settlement, backed by its grand 'bush' and faced by the sea, consists +of a castle and a subject town; it wears, in fact, a baronial and +old-world look. Fort Santo Antonio, a tall white house upon a bastioned +terrace, crowns proudly enough a knob of black rock and low green growth. +On both sides of it, north and south, stretches the town; from this +distance it appears a straggle of brown thatched huts and hovels, +enlivened here and there by some whitewashed establishments, mining or 'in +the mercanteel.' The soil is ruddy and rusty, and we have the usual +African tricolor. + +The agents of the several Aximite houses came on board. We drained the +normal stirrup-cup and embarked in the usual heavy surf-boat, manned by a +dozen leathery-lunged 'Elmina boys' with paddles, and a helmsman with an +oar. There are smaller surf-canoes, that have weather-boards at the bow to +fend off the waves. Our anchorage-place lies at least two miles +south-west-and-by-south of the landing-place. There is absolutely nothing +to prevent steamers running in except a sunken reef, the Pinnacle or +Hoeven Rock. It is well known to every canoeman. Cameron sounded for it, +and a buoy had been laid by fishermen, but so unskilfully that the surge +presently made a clean sweep. Hence a wilful waste of time and work. I +wrote to Messieurs Elder and Dempster, advising them to replace it for +their own interests and for the convenience of travellers; but in Africa +one is out of the world, and receiving answers is emphatically not the +rule. + +There is no better landing-place than Axim upon this part of the African +coast. The surf renders it impracticable only on the few days of the worst +weather. We hugged the north of the Bobowusúa rock-islet. When the water +here breaks there is a clear way further north; the southern passage, +paved with rocks and shoals, can be used only when the seas are at their +smoothest. A regular and well-defined channel placed us on the shingly and +sandy beach. We had a succulent breakfast with Messieurs Gillett and Selby +(Lintott and Spink), to whose unceasing kindness and hospitality we +afterwards ran heavily in debt. There we bade adieu to our genial captain +and our jovial fellow-travellers. + +The afternoon was spent in visiting the Axim fort. Santo Antonio, built by +the Portuguese in the glorious days of Dom Manuel (1495-1521), became the +Hollander Saint Anthony by conquest in 1682, and was formally yielded by +treaty to the Dutch West Indian Company. It came to us by convention at +the Hague; and, marked 'ruined' in the chart, it was repaired in 1873 +before the Ashanti war. It can now act harbour of refuge, and is safe from +the whole power of the little black despotism. Bosman [Footnote: _Eerste +Brief_, 1737: the original Dutch edition was lent to me by M. Paulus +Dahse.] shows 'Fort St. Antonio' protected by two landward bastions and an +old doorway opening upon a loopholed courtyard. Barbot (1700) sketches a +brick house in gable-shape, based upon a triangular rock. + +Passing the Swanzy establishment, a model board-house, with masonry posts, +a verandah all round, and a flying roof of corrugated iron, we ascend the +old paved ramp. Here we remark that the castle-gateway of the Dutch, +leading to the outer or slave court, has been replaced by a mean hole in +the wall. The external work was demolished, lest the enemy effect a +lodgement there. We can walk seawards round the green knob scattered with +black boulders, and pick an excellent salad, a kind of African dandelion, +which the carnivorous English miners called 'grass,'--with a big, big D. +Entering the hole in the wall, and passing through a solid arched gateway +and across a small court upon which the prison opens, we ascend the steps +leading to the upper work. This is a large square house, pierced in front +for one door and three windows, and connected by a bridge, formerly a +drawbridge, with the two tall belvideres, once towers guarding the +eastern entrance. The body is occupied by the palaver-hall of the _opper +koopman_ (chief factor), now converted into a court-house and a small +armoury of sniders. It leads to the bedrooms, disposed on three sides. The +materials are trap, quartz, probably gold-bearing, and fine bricks, +evidently home-made. The substantial quarters fronting the sea are breezy, +comfortable, and healthy; and the large cistern contains the only good +drinking-water in Axim. Life must be somewhat dull here, but, after all, +not so bad as in many an out-station of British India. The chief grievance +is that the inmates, the District-commissioner and his medico, are mere +birds of passage; they are ordered off and exchanged, at the will of +head-quarters, often before they can settle down, and always before they +learn to take interest in the place. The works consist of two bastions on +the land side; a large one to the south-east, and a smaller to the +north-east. Seawards projects a rounded cavalier, fronted by dead ground, +or rather water. In the days of the Dutch the platforms carried '22 iron +guns, besides some patteraroes.' Now there are two old bronze guns, two +'chambeis' bearing the mark 'La Hague,' and an ancient iron tube +dismounted: a seven-pounder mountain-gun, of a type now obsolete, lurks in +the shadows of the arched gateway. I afterwards had an opportunity of +seeing the ammunition, and was much struck by a tub of black mud, which +they told me was gunpowder. The Ashantis at least keep theirs dry. + +The dispensary appeared equally well found. For some weeks there was a +native assistant; then Dr. Roulston came, and, after a few days, was +ordered off at a moment's notice to the remotest possible station. He had +no laudanum, no Dover's powders, no chlorodyne, no Warburg; and, when +treating M. Dahse for a burst vein, he was compelled to borrow styptics +from our store. This style of economy is very expensive. To state the case +simply, officials last one year instead of two. + +The late Captain P. D. O'Brien, District-commissioner of Axim, did the +honours, showing us the only 'antiquity' in the place, the tomb of a Dutch +governor, with a rudely cut inscription set in the eastern wall:-- + + WILLEM + SCHOORWAS + COMAD. OP AXEM + 1659. + +Amongst the slave-garrison of twenty-five Hausás I found a Wadai-man, +Sergeant Abba Osman, who had not quite forgotten his Arabic. Several +Moslems also appeared about the town, showing that the flood of El-Islam +is fast setting this way. They might profitably be hired as an armed +escort into the pagan interior. + +Axim, preferably written by the Portuguese 'Axem,' was by them pronounced +Ashim or Ashem: no stress, therefore, must be laid upon its +paper-resemblance with Abyssinian Axum. [Footnote: I allude to _The Guinea +or Gold Coast of Africa, formerly a Colony of the Axumites_ (London, +Pottle and Son, 1880), an interesting pamphlet kindly forwarded to me by +the author, Captain George Peacock. I believe, as he does, that the West +Coast of Africa preserves traces of an ancient connection with the Nile +valley and the eastern regions; but this is not one of them.] Barbot calls +it 'Axim, or Atzyn, or Achen.' The native name is Essim, which, in the +language of the Mfantse or Mfantse-fo (Fanti-race), means 'you told me,' +and in the Apollonian dialect 'you know me.' These fanciful terms are +common, and they allude to some tale or legend which is forgotten in +course of time. The date of its building is utterly unknown. The Fanti +tradition is that their race was driven coastwards, like their kinsmen the +Ashantis, [Footnote: In _Wanderings in West Africa_, (ii. 98) I have given +the popular derivation of Fanti (Fan-didi = herb-eater) and Asyanti +(Sán-didi = corn-eater). Bowdich wrote 'Ashanti' because he learnt the +word from the Accra-men.] by tribes pressing down upon them from the +north. They must have found the maritime lands occupied, but they have +preserved no notices of their predecessors. The port-town became the +capital of an upper factor, who ruled the whole coast as far as Elmina. It +was almost depopulated, say the old authorities, by long wars with the +more powerful Apollonia; but its commanding position has always enabled it +to recover from the heaviest blows. It is still the threshold of the +western Gold-region, and the principal port of occidental Wásá (Wassaw). + +We may fairly predict a future for Axim. The town is well situated to +catch the sea-breeze. The climate is equatorial, but exceptionally +healthy, save after the rainy season, which here opens a month or six +weeks earlier than on the leeward coast. The downfall must, however, have +diminished since the times when 'the _blacks_ will tell you the wet +weather lasts eleven months and twenty-nine days in the year.' The rains +now begin with April and end in September. The position is south of the +thermal equator (22ş R. = 81 5ş F.), which runs north lat. 6ş on the +western coast, 15ş in the interior, and 10ş on the eastern seaboard. +[Footnote: Berghaus, following Humboldt, places the probable equator of +temperature (80ş 16') in N. lat. 4ş, or south of Axim, rising to N. lat. +13ş in Central and in Eastern Africa] Add that the average daily +temperature is 75ş-80ş (F.), rising to 96ş in the afternoon and falling +after midnight to 70ş, and that the wet season on the seaboard is perhaps +the least sickly. We were there in January-March, during an unusually hot +and dry season, following the Harmatan and the Smokes and preceding the +tornadoes and the rains; yet I never felt an oppressive day,--nothing +worse than Alexandria or Trieste in early August. The mornings and +evenings were mostly misty; the moons were clear and the nights were +tolerable. An excessive damp, which mildews and decays +everything--clothes, books, metals, man--was the main discomfort. But we +were living, as it were, in the open, and we neglected morning and evening +fires. This will not be the case when solid and comfortable houses shall +be built. The improvement of lodging and diet accounts for the better +health of Anglo-Africans, as of Anglo-Indians, in the present day. Our +predecessors during the early nineteenth century died of bad shelter, bad +food, and bad drink. + +The town, built upon a flat partly formed by cutting away the mounds and +hillocks of red clay, was well laid out by Mr. Sam, the +District-commissioner, after its bombardment during the Ashanti war. The +main streets, or rather roads, running north-south, are avenued with +shady Ganian or umbrella figs. I should prefer the bread-tree, which here +flourishes. These thoroughfares are kept clean enough, and nuisances are +punished, as in England. Cross lines, however, are wanted; the crooked +passages between the huts do not admit the sea-breeze. Native hovels, +also, should be removed from the foreshore, which, as Admiralty property, +ought to be kept for public purposes. The native dwellings are composed of +split bamboo-fronds (_Raphia vinifera_), thatched with the foliage of the +same tree. They are mere baskets--airy, and perhaps too airy. Some are +defended against wind and wet by facings of red swish; a few, like that of +the 'king' and chief native traders, are built of adobes (sun-dried +bricks), whitewashed outside. Of this kind, too, are the stores and the +mining establishments; the 'Akankon House,' near the landing-place; the +'Gold Coast House,' in the interior; the Methodist chapel, a barn-shaped +affair; the Effuenta House to the north, and the Tákwá, or French House, +to the south. + +'Sanitation,' however, is loudly called for; and if cholera come here it +will do damage. The southern part of the narrow ledge bearing the town, +and including the French establishment, is poisoned by a fetid, stagnant +pool, full of sirens, shrimps, and anthropophagous crabs, which after +heavy rains cuts a way through its sand-bar to the sea. This _marigot_ is +the 'little shallow river Axim,' the Achombene of Barbot, which the people +call Awaminísu ('Ghost's or Deadman's Water'). To the north also there are +two foul nullahs, the Eswá and the Besáon, which make the neighbourhood +pestilential. In days to come the latter will be restored to its old +course east of the town and thrown into the Awaminísu, whose mouth will be +kept open throughout the year. The eastern suburbs, so to call them, want +clearing of offal and all manner of impurities. Beyond the original valley +of the Besáon the ground rises and bears the wall of trees seen from the +offing. There is, therefore, plenty of building-room, and long heads have +bought up all the land in that direction. Mr. Macarthy, of the School of +Mines, owns many concessions in this part of the country. + +All the evils here noted can easily be remedied. As in the Cairo of +Mohammed Ali's day, every house-holder should be made responsible for the +cleanliness of his surroundings. The Castle-prison, too, rarely lodges +fewer than a dozen convicts. These men should be taken away from +'shot-drill' and other absurdities of the tread-mill type, which diversify +pleasant, friar-like lives of eating and drinking, smoking, sleeping, and +chatting with one another. Unfortunately, humanitarianism does not allow +the lash without reference to head-quarters. Labour must therefore be +light; still it would suffice to dig up the boulders from the main +thoroughfares, to clean the suburbs, and to open the mouths of the fetid +and poisonous lagoons. + +Mr. William M. Grant, the clever and active agent of our friend Mr. James +Irvine, came on board to receive us, and housed us and our innumerable +belongings in his little bungalow facing 'Water Street.' We found life at +Axim pleasant enough. Even in these days of comparative barbarism, or at +best of incipient civilisation, the station is not wholly desert. The +agents of the several firms are hospitable in the extreme. Generally also +a manager of the inner mines, or a new comer, enlarges the small circle. +There is a flavour of England in 'A. B. and Co., licensed dealers in wine +and spirits, wholesale and retail,' inscribed upon boards over the +merchants' doors; also in the lawn-tennis, which I have seen played in a +space called by courtesy a square: Cameron, by-the-bye, has hired it, +despite some vexatious local opposition, and it will be a fine _locale_ +for the Axim Hotel now being opened. Sunday is known as a twenty-four +hours of general idleness and revelry: your African Christian is +meticulous upon the subject of 'Sabbath;' he will do as little work as +possible for six days, and scrupulously repose upon the seventh. Whether +he 'keeps it holy' is quite another matter, into which I do not care to +enquire. Service- and school-hours are announced by a manner of +peripatetic belfry--a negroling walking about with a cracked muffin-bell. +From the chapel, which adjoins some wattled huts, the parsonage, surges at +times a prodigious volume of sound, the holloaing of hymns and the +bellowing of anthems; and, between whiles, the sable congregation, ranged +on benches and gazing out of the windows, 'catches it 'ot and strong' from +the dark-faced Wesleyan missionary-schoolmaster. + +We were never wearied of the 'humours' of native Axim. The people are not +Fantis, but Apollonians, somewhat differing in speech with the Oji; both +languages, however, are mutually intelligible. [Footnote: Oji is also +written Otschi, Tschi, Chwee, Twi, Tswi, Otyi, Tyi, or whatever German +ingenuity can suggest. I can hardly explain why the late Keith Johnston +(Africa) calls the linguistic family 'Ewe' (Ewhe, or properly Whegbe), +after a small section of the country, Dahome, Whydah, &c. He was probably +led to it by the publications of the Bâle and other German missions.] The +men are the usual curious compound of credulity and distrust, hope and +fatalism, energy and inaction, which make the negro so like the Irish +character. But we must not expect too much from the denizens of African +seaports, mostly fishermen who will act hammock-bearers, a race especially +fond of Bacchus and worshippers of the 'devil Venus.' Perhaps a little too +much license is allowed to them in the matter of noisy and drunken 'native +customs,' palavers, and pow-wows. They rarely go about armed; if you see a +gun you know that the bearer is a huntsman. They are easily commanded, +and, despite their sympathies with Ashanti-land, they are not likely to +play tricks since their town was bombarded. In the villages they are civil +enough, baring the shoulders, like taking off the hat, when they meet +their rulers. Theirs, also, is the great virtue of cleanliness; even when +the mornings are coldest you see them bathing on the beach. They are never +pinched for food, and they have high ideas of diet. 'He lib all same +Prince; he chop cow and sheep ebery day, and fowl and duck he be all same +vegeta'l.' They have poultry in quantities, especially capons, sheep with +negro faces like the Persian, dwarf milch-goats of sturdy build, dark and +dingy pigs, and cattle whose peculiarity it is to be either black or +piebald. The latter are neat animals like the smallest Alderneys, with +short horns, and backs flat as tables. There are almost as many bulls as +there are cows, and they herd together without fighting. Being looked upon +as capital, and an honour to the owner, they are never killed; and, +although the udders of cows and goats are bursting with milk, they are +never milked. + +The women differ very little from their sisters of the Eastern Gold Coast. +You never see beauty beyond the _beauté du diable_ and the naďve and +piquant plainness which one admires in a pug-pup. The forms are +unsupported, and the figure falls away at the hips. They retain the savage +fashion of coiffure shown in Cameron's 'Across Africa,' training their +wool to bunches, tufts, and horns. The latter is the favourite; the +pigtails, which stand stiff upright, and are whipped round like pricks of +tobacco, may number half a dozen: one, however, is the common style, and +the size is said to be determined by a delicate consideration. Opposed to +this is the highly civilised _atufu_, 'kankey,' or bussle, whose origin is +disputed. Some say that it prevents the long cloth clinging to the lower +limbs, others that it comes from a modest wish to conceal the forms; some +make it a jockey-saddle for the baby, others a mere exaggeration of +personal development, an attempt to make Aphrodite a Callipygé. I hold +that it arose, in the mysterious hands of 'Fashion,' from the knot which +secures the body-cloth, and which men wear in front or by the side. +Usually this bussle is a mere bundle of cloth; on dress occasions it is a +pad or cushion. I had some trouble to buy the specimen, which Cameron +exhibited in London. + +Men and women are vastly given to 'chaffing' and to nicknaming. Every +child, even in the royal houses, takes a first name after the week-day +[Footnote: + Men. Women. + Adwo (Monday-born) ... Kajo (Cuddjo) ... Adwoa. + Bena (Tuesday-born) ... Kwábina ... Abiena. + Wuku (Wednesday-born) ... Kwáko ... Akudea. + Tan (Thursday-born) ... Kwáo ... Yá (Yawá). + Afio (Friday-born) ... Kofi (Coffee) ... Afuá. + Amu (Saturday-born) ... Kwámina ... Amma. + Ayisi (Sunday-born) ... Kwasi ... Akosúa (Akwasiba). + +Monday is the first day of the Oji week. The Sunday-born is corrupted to +'Quashy,' well known in the United States; hence also the 'bitter cup' of +_guassia_-wood. The names of the days are taken from the seven Powers +which rule them. Kwa-Si would be Kwá (=_akoa_, man, slave), and Ayisi (a +man) belonging to Ayisi. Amongst the Accra people the first-born are +called Téte (masc.) and Dede (fem.), the second Tété and Koko, and the +rest take the names of the numerals. So we have Septimus, Decimus, &c.] of +its birth, and strangers after that on which they land. Cameron, who +shaved his hair, was entitled 'Kwábina Echipu'--Tuesday Baldhead. I became +Sásá Kwési (Fetish Sunday), from a fancied clerical appearance, Sásá being +probably connected with Sásábonsam, 'a huge earth-demon of human shape and +fiery hue.' He derives from _asase_ ('earth'), and _abonsam_, some evil +ghost who has obtained a permanent bad name. Missionaries translate the +latter word 'devil,' and make it signify an evil spirit living in the +upper regions, or our popular heaven, and reigning over Abonsamkru, the +last home of souls, or rather shades of the wicked. Thus _sasabonsam_ +would be equivalent to _Erdgeist_, _Waldteufel_, or _Kobold_, no bad +nickname for a miner. The people have a wealth of legend, and some queer +tale attached to every wild beast and bird. In days to come this folk-lore +will be collected. + +The gorbellied children are the pests of the settlement. At early dawn +they roar because they awake hungry and thirsty; they roar during the day +when washed with cold water, and in the evening they roar because they are +tired and sleepy. They are utterly spoiled. They fight like little +Britons; they punch their mothers at three years of age; and, when strong +enough, they 'square up' to their fathers. + +The first mining business we had to transact was with Kwámina Blay, of +Attabo, Ahin (Ahene) or King of Amrehía, Western Apollonia. He came to +visit us in state on January 28. The vehicle, a long basket, big enough to +lodge a Falstaff, open like a coffin, and lined with red cloth to receive +the royal person and gold-hilted swords, was carried stretcher-fashion by +four sturdy knaves. King Blay is an excellent man, true and 'loyal to the +backbone;' but his Anglo-African garb was, to say the least, peculiar. A +tall cocked hat, with huge red and white plume, contrasted with the dwarf +pigtail bearing a Popo-bead, by way of fetish, at the occiput. His +body-dress was a sky-blue silk, his waist-cloth marigold-yellow, and he +held in hand the usual useless sword of honour, a Wilkinson presented to +him for his courage and conduct in 1873-1874. The Ashanti medal hung from +his neck by a plaited gold chain of native Trichinopoly-work, with a neat +sliding clasp of two cannons and an empty _asumamma_, or talisman-case. +The bracelets were of Popo-beads and thick gold-wire curiously twisted +into wreath-knots. Each finger bore a ring resembling a knuckle-duster, +three mushroom-like projections springing from each oval shield. + +Ahin Blay dismounted with ceremony, and was as ceremoniously received. His +features are those of the Fanti, somewhat darker than usual, and his +expression is kindly and intelligent: though barely fifty-five his head is +frosty and his goatee is snowy. The visit was a state affair, a copy in +small of Ashanti and Dahome. + +On the left, the place of honour, sat the 'King's father,' that is, eldest +uncle on the female side, evidently younger than his nephew: the language +makes scanty difference between the relationships, and here, as in other +parts of Africa, the ruler adopts a paternity. Six elders, _safahins_ and +_panins_, [Footnotes: The 'Opanyini' (plur. of 'Opanyin') are the +town-elders forming the council of the Ahin (king) or Caboceer, each with +his own especial charge. The Safahin (Safohine or Osafohene) is the +captain of war; the Ofotosanfo is the treasurer; the Okyame is spy and +speaker, alias 'King's Mouf;' and the Obofo is the messenger, envoy, or +ambassador. The system much resembles that of the village-republics in +Maráthá-land.] sat down, in caps and billycocks; the other fifteen stood +up bareheaded, including the 'King's Stick,' called further south 'King's +Mouf.' This spokesman, like the 'Meu-'minister of Dahome, repeated to his +master our interpreter's words; and his long wand of office was capped +with a silver elephant--King Blay's 'totem,' equivalent to our heraldic +signs. So in Ashanti-land some _caboceers_ cap their huge umbrellas with +the _twidam_, or leopard, the _Etchwee_, or panther, of Bowdich, [Footnote: +_Mission_, &c., p. 230 (orig. fol.). The other two patriarchal families +which preside over the eight younger branches, making a total of twelve +tribes, are the Ekoana (_Quonna_), from _eko_ (a buffalo), and the Essona, +from _esso_ (a bush-cat).] and others are members of the _Intchwa_, or +dog-division. These emblems denote consanguineous descent, and the +brotherhood (_ntwa_) of the 'totems' is uniformly recognised. Our guest's +particular ambition is a large state-umbrella, capped with a silver +elephant carrying in trunk a sword. He presently received one sent, at my +request, by Mr. Irvine. + +Amongst the elders were scattered small boys, relations of the headmen. +They were all eyes and ears, and in Fanti-land they are formally trained +to make the best of spies. When you see a lad lounging about or quietly +dozing within ear-shot you know at once his mission. + +The notable parts of the suite were the swordbearers and the band. The +former carried five _afőa_, peculiar weapons, emblems of royalty. The +blades are licked when swearing; they are despatched with messengers as a +hint to enforce obedience; and they are held, after a fashion, to be holy. +I have never seen more conventional, distorted, and useless weapons. Three +blades showed the usual chopping-bill shape, pierced, like fish-slicers, +with round, semicircular, and angular holes. One, measuring twenty-three +inches and three-quarters, was leaf-formed, dotted with a lozenge-pattern +and set with copper studs. Another was partially saw-toothed. All were of +iron, rusty with the rust of years and hardly sharp enough to cut a pat of +butter. The impossible handles were worthy of the blades, bulging grips +between two huge balls utterly unfitted for handling; four were covered +with thin gold-plate in _repoussé_ work, and one with silver. The metal +was sewn together with thin wire, and the joints had been hammered to hide +them. Cameron sketched them for my coming 'Book of the Sword;' and Ahin +Blay kept his promise by sending me a specimen of the weapon with two +divergent blades used to cut off noses and ears. Bowdich [Footnote: +_Mission_, &c., p. 312] mentions finely-worked double blades springing +parallel from a single handle; here nothing was known about them. + +The band consisted of two horns and three drums. Of the latter one was +sheathed in leopard-skin and rubbed, not struck, with two curved sticks. A +second was hourglass-shaped; the sticks were bent to right angles, and the +drummer carried, by way of cymbal, a small round iron plate adjusted to +the fingers with little rings loosely set in the edge. The horns were +scrivelloes, elephant-tusks of small size. At times a horrid braying +denoted the royal titles, and after every blast the liege lord responded +mechanically, 'Kwámina Blay! atinásu marrah' (Monday Blay! here am I). + +Interviews with African 'kings' consist mainly of compliments, 'dashes' +(presents or heave-offerings), and what is popularly called 'liquoring +up.' Gifts are a sign of affection; hence the proverb, 'If anyone loves +you he will beg of you.' Money, however, is considered pay; curiosities +are presents, and drink is 'dash.' The 'drinkitite' these men develope is +surprising; they swallow almost without interval beer and claret, +champagne and shandigaff, cognac, whisky, and _liqueurs_. Trade-gin, +[Footnote: This article is made at Hamburg by many houses; the best brand +is held to be that of Van Heyten, and the natives are particular about it. +The prime cost of a dozen-case, each bottle containing about a quart, +fitted with wooden divisions and packed with husks, chaff, or sawdust, is +3_s_. 6_d_.; in retail it is sold for 6_s_., or 6_d_. per bottle. Strange +to say, it has the flavour of good hollands. The latter, however, in small +bottles is always to be bought on the Gold Coast, and can be drunk with +safety.] being despised, is turned over to the followers. Before entering +upon this time-wasting process I persuaded the Ahin and _panins_ to sign +the document enabling me formally to take possession of the 'Izrah Mine.' +The paper was duly attested and witnessed; and the visit ended with a +royal 'progress' to the fort, where the District-commissioner did the rest +of the needful. + +Next day the King made a friendly call without basket or band. His cocked +hat was exchanged for a chimney-pot so 'shocking bad' that no coster would +dare to don it. Such is the custom of the chiefs, and if you give them a +good tile it goes at once into store. He made us promise a return-visit +and set out to collect bearers. + +Hereabouts a week is as a day. Whilst carriage was collecting we inspected +the neighbourhood of Axim. Our first visit was to Bobowusúa island, a +'fetish place for palavers,' where the natives object to guns being fired. +Here it was that Admiral van Ruyter built his battery of twelve cannons +and forced Fort Santo Antonio to surrender on January 19, 1642. The rock +is of trap, greenstone, or whinstone, which miners call iron-stone and +Cornishmen 'blue elvan:' this diorite, composed of felspar and the hardest +hornblende, contains granular iron and pyrites like silver. Some specimens +are beautifully banded in onyx-fashion and revetted with 'spar' (quartz) +of many colours, dead-white and crystalline, red and yellow. We find the +same trap on the mainland. Near the smaller Akinim or Salt-pond village +there is a mass threaded with quartz-veins from north to south (1ş 30'), +bossed by granite dykes [Footnote: It is generally believed that these +granite injections have been cooled and consolidated deep below earth's +surface.] trending east-west (96ş 50'), and traversed by a burnt vein +striking 67ş. From the surf-boat we remarked that there were no sharks; +apparently they shun coming within the reefs. Our landing was not pleasant +for the Krumen; the shallow bottom was strewed with rounded pebbles, and +the latter are studded with sharp limpets and corallines. We climbed round +the seaward bluff, fissured with deep narrow clefts, up which the +tide-waves race and roar. Here the trap has a ruddy hue, the salt water +bringing out the iron. Corallines, now several feet above water, clothed +the boulders. This, corroborated by a host of other phenomena, argues a +secular upheaval of the island, and we find the same on the mainland. +There were fragments of grey granite, but not _in situ_; all had been +washed from the continent, where it outlies all other formations. +Water-rolled bits of brickstone also appeared; and hence, probably, Dr. +Oscar Lenz [Footnote: _Geolog. Karte von West-Africa_. Gotha, Justus +Perthes, 1882.] makes Axim and the neighbourhood consist of _rother +Sandstein_ upon laterite. + +Bobowusúa is a cabinet of natural history. The northern flank is ever wet +with dew and spray; the southern shows a little dry earth and sand. The +latter in this and in other parts of the islet is a medley of comminuted +shells. We collected cowries of four kinds, large and small, crabs and +balani, lobsters and sea-urchins (_erinacei_) with short spines; +diminutive rock-oysters and a large variety with iridescent +mother-o'-pearl, pink, red and yellow. The latter yields a white +seed-pearl, and here, perhaps, we might attempt to develope it into + + That great round glory of pellucid stuff, + A fish secreted round a grain of grit. + +A single snake-slough and an eight-ribbed turtle were found. The short, +sandy neck of the eastern knob is a playground for 'parson-crows' and +scavengers (turkey-buzzards); hawks, kites, and fish-eagles, white and +black, while the adjacent reefs are frequented by gulls, terns, and small +cranes. + +Above the rock-line is a selvage of low vegetation--ipom[oe]a, white and +mauve-flowered; rushes and tangle-grass, a variety of salsolaceć, and the +cyperus, whose stalk is used like the _kalam_, or reed-pen, further east. +These growths are filmed with spiders' webs, whose central shafts lead to +their nests. The highest levels, only a few feet above water, are grown +with a dense bush that wants the matchet. Here are remains of plantations, +a little knot of bananas, a single tall cocoanut, many young palms, and a +few felled trunks overgrown with oysters. Europeans have proposed to build +bungalows on Bobowusúa, where they find fresh sea-air, and a little +shooting among the red-breasted ring-doves, rails, and green pigeons +affecting the vegetation. It appears to us a good place for mooring hulks. +The steamers could then run alongside of them and discharge cargo for the +coming tramway, while surf-boats carrying two or three tons could load for +the Ancobra River. + +The eastern or inner continuation of Bobowusúa is Poké islet, a similar +but smaller block. During spring-tides they are linked together and to the +shore by reefs that stand up high and dry. Poké is the rock where, +according to Barbot, 'the negroes put their wives and children when they +go to war.' The tradition is that the Dutch mined it for silver. The metal +is known to exist in several places on and behind the coast, at Bosumato, +upon the Ancobra River south of 'Akankon,' and even at Kumasi. Besides, +gold has not yet been found here unalloyed with silver. + +I was fortunate in collecting from this part of Africa stone-implements +before unknown to Europe. My lamented friend Winwood Reade, [Footnote: +_The Story of the Ashantee Campaign_ (pp. 2-4 and 314). London, Smith and +Elder, 1874.] one of those + + Peculiar people whom death _has_ made dear, + +was the first to bring them home from the eastern regions, Akwapim +(Aquapim), Prahsu, and the Volta River. Arrived at Axim, I nailed to the +walls of our sitting-room a rough print showing the faces and profiles of +worked stones. The result was a fair supply from the coast both up and +down till I had secured thirteen. [Footnote: I read a paper upon these +stone-implements (July 11, 1882) before the Anthropological Society at the +house of my friend, the President, General A. Pitt-Rivers; and made over +to him my small stock. It will find a home at Oxford, with the rest of his +noble anthropological collection, lately presented to the University.] All +were of the neolithic or ground type; the palćolithic or chipped was +wholly absent, and so were weapons proper, arrowpiles and spear-points. + +Mr. Carr, the able and intelligent agent of Messieurs Swanzy, brought me +sundry pieces and furnished me with the following notes. The 'belemnites' +are picked up at the stream-mouths after freshets; but the people, like +all others, call them 'lightning-stones' (_osráman-bo_) or _abonua_, +simply axe. They suppose the _ceraunius_ to fall with the bolt, to sink +deep in the earth, and to rise to the surface in process of time. The idea +is easily explained. All are comparatively modern, and consequently thinly +covered with earth's upper crust; this is easily washed away by heavy +rains; and, as thunder and lightning accompany the downfalls, the stones +are supposed to be the result. + +The _osráman-bo_ are used in medicine; they 'cool the heart;' and water in +which they are steeped, when given to children, mitigates juvenile +complaints. One of my collections owes its black colour to having been +boiled in palm-oil by way of preserving its virtues; it resembles the +_básanos_ of Lydian Tmolus; but the Gold Coast touchstone is mostly a dark +jasper imported from Europe. The substance of the thunder-stone is the +greenstone-trap everywhere abundant, and taking with age a creamy patina +like the basalt of the Haurán. I heard, however, that at Abusi, beyond +Anamabo (Bird-rock), and other places further east worked stones of a +lightish slaty hue are common. About New Town and Assini these implements +become very plentiful. Mr. S. Cheetham informs me that the thinner +hatchets, somewhat finger-shaped, are copied in iron by the peoples of the +Benin River. These expert smiths buy poor European metal and, like other +West Africans, turn out a first-rate tool. + +Axim seems to have been a great centre of stone-manufacture. Mr. Carr +showed us a dozen huge boulders of greenstone, chiefly at the eastern +angle of the wart that bears, in dangerous proximity to his stores, his +powder-magazine. The upper surfaces are scored and striped with +leaf-shaped grooves, formed like old Greek swords; some of them are three +feet long by three inches wide and three deep. I made a sketch of the +place; Cameron photographed it, and on return carried off a huge slice of +the block, which is now in the British Museum. We afterwards found these +striated stones on the sea-ward face of St. Anthony Fort, in northern +Axim, and on other parts of the seaboard. + +Axim, the gate of this El Dorado, has not yet much reason to thank England +for ruling her. A mean economy annually hoards from 20,000_l_. to +30,000_l_, [Footnote: In 1878 the revenue was 105,091_l_. and the +expenditure 68,410_l_., and in other years the contrast was even greater. +The omniscient 'Whittaker' tells us that in 1879 the figures stood at +54,908_l_. income versus an outlay of 46,281_l_.; and there was no debt.] +forwarded to the colonial _caisse_, to be wasted upon 'little wars,' and +similar miseries, instead of being spent upon local improvements. The +unwholesome bush (the Dutch 'bosch') or wood, backed by the primćval +forest, surges up to the very doors. The little plank-bridges are out of +repair, and the merchants will not supply the Government with new boards, +save for ready money; otherwise payment may be delayed for a year. The +highway to head-quarters, Cape Coast Castle, is a yellow thread streaking +the green, a hunter's path trodden in the jungle. For 16_s_. 6_d_. a +private messenger goes to and returns from the capital, a distance of +eighty-two miles, in four or five days. The public post starts on +Wednesdays, halts without reason between Fridays and Mondays at Sekondi +(Seecondee), and consumes a week in the down-march. I have already noted +the want of sanitation, the condition of the ammunition, and the absence +of medical stores. It moves one's sense of the absurd to compare the +desolate condition of the Goldland, which is to supply the money, with the +civilised machinery in England which is to work it, companies and +syndicates, shares, debentures, and what not. + +I have treated the subject of Axim with a minuteness that is almost +'porochial;' its future importance must be my excuse. The next chapter +will show that we are truly in the Land of Gold, in an Old New California. + +And now to conclude this unpleasant account with the good words of old +Barbot: 'Axim, in my opinion, is the most tempting of any on the coast of +_Guinea_, taking one thing with another. You have there a perpetual +greenness, which affords a comfortable shade against the scorching heat of +the sun, under the lofty palm and other trees, planted about the village, +with a sweet harmony of many birds of several sorts perching on them. The +walk on the low flat strand along the seaside is no less pleasant at +certain hours of the day; and from the platform of the fort is a most +delightful prospect of the ocean and the many rocks and small islands +about it.' + + + +CHAPTER XVI. + +GOLD ABOUT AXIM, ESPECIALLY AT THE APATIM OR BUJIÁ CONCESSION. + +Any one who has eyes to see can assure himself that Axim is the threshold +of the Gold-region. It abounds in diorite, a rock usually associated with +the best paying lodes. After heavy showers the naked eye can note spangles +of the precious metal in the street-roads. You can pan it out of the +wall-swish. The little stream-beds, bone-dry throughout the hot season, +roll down, during the rains, a quantity of dark arenaceous matter, like +that of Taranaki, New Zealand, and the 'black sand' of Australia, which +collects near the sea in stripes and patches. The people believe that +without it gold never occurs; and, if they collect the common yellow sand, +it is to extract from it the darker material. If the stuff does not answer +the magnet, it is probably schorl (tourmaline), hornblende, or dark +quartz. Strangers have often mistaken this emery-like rock for tin, which +occurs abundantly in the northern region. It is simply titaniferous iron, +iserine, pleonaste, ilmenite [Footnote: Or peroxide of iron, with 8 to 23 +per cent, of blue oxide of titanium.] and degraded itabirite, the iron and +quartz formation so called in the Brazil; and it is the same mineral which +I found so general throughout the gold and silver fields of neglected +Midian. It is found striating white sandstone about Tákwá and other places +in the interior. The surface-stone is decomposed by the oxide of iron, and +thus the precious dust with its ingrained gold is dissolved and separated +from it. At a greater depth the itabirite will be found solid; and the +occurrence of these oldest crystalline formations in large layers is a +hopeful sign. When Colonel Bolton was interested in the Gold Coast +diggings I advised him to send for a few tons of this metal, and to test +it as 'pay-dirt.' A barrelful was forwarded from the coast to the Akankon +Company: it was probably thrown away without experiment. + +At Axim, as at Cape Coast Castle and other parts of the shore, women may +be seen gold-gathering even on the sea-sands. They rarely wash more than +40 lbs., or a maximum of 50 lbs., per diem; and they strike work if they +do not make daily half a dollar (2_s_. 3_d_.) to two dollars. They have +nests of wooden platters for pans, the oldest and rudest of all mechanical +appliances. The largest, two feet in diameter, are used for rough work in +the usual way with a peculiar turn of the wrist. The smallest are stained +black inside, to show the colour of gold; and the finer washings are +carried home to be worked at leisure during the night. This is peculiarly +women's work, and some are well known to be better panners than others; +they refuse to use salt-water, because, they say, it will not draw out the +gold. + +The whole land is impregnated with the precious metal. I find it richer in +sedimentary gold than California was in 1859. Immediately behind the main +square of Axim a bank of red clay leads eastward to a shallow depression, +the old valley of the Besáon, a swamp during the rains backed by rising +and forested ground to the east. On the inland versant a narrow native +shaft has been sunk for gold by Mr. Sam, now native agent under Mr. +Crocker. We pounded and panned the rock, which yielded about twopence per +2 lbs., or one ounce to the ton. Observing its strike, we concluded that +it must extend through Mr. Irvine's property. Throughout the Gold Coast +auriferous reefs ran north-south, with easting rather than westing; the +deviation varies from 5ş west to 15ş-22ş east; and I have heard of, but +not seen, a strike of north-east (45ş) to south-west. This confirms the +'meridional hypothesis' of Professor Sedgwick, who stated, 'As some of the +great physical agencies of the earth are meridional, these agencies may +probably, in a way we do not comprehend, have influenced the deposit of +metals on certain lines of bearing.' We may also observe that all the +great mineral chains of the old and new world are meridional rather than +longitudinal, striking from north-east to south-west. The geologist's +theory, combined with the knowledge that the noble metal is 'chiefly found +among palćozoic rocks of a quartzose type,' is practically valuable on the +Gold Coast. Every mound or hillock of red clay contains one or more +quartz-reefs, generally outcropping, but sometimes buried in the subsoils. +They can always be struck by a cross-cut trending east-west. The dip is +exceedingly irregular: some lodes are almost vertical, and others +quasi-horizontal. + +We now take the main road leading to the Ancobra. After crossing the fetid +Besáon by its ricketty bridge of planks, we find on the right hand, facing +Messieurs Swanzy's, a fine bit of rising ground, which I shall call, after +its proprietor, 'Mount Irvine.' Over the southern slope runs a cleared +highway, which presently becomes a 'bush-path;' it is named the 'Dudley +Road,' after an energetic District-commissioner. This is the first Tákwá +line, whose length is described to be about fifty miles, or four days' +slow journey for laden porters. Mr. Gillett, who had covered twenty-six +(sixteen?) miles of it, describes the path as unbroken by swamps or +streams. Further north, according to the many native guides whom I +questioned, travellers pass two rivulets, and finally they are ferried +over the Abonsá, or Tákwá River. The second road follows closely the left +bank of the Ancobra: it is used by the Hausá soldiers, but only in the +heart of the Dries, and it must be impassable during the Rains. Dr. J. +Africanus B. Horton, who contributes to a characteristic paper, [Footnote: +The _African Times_, January 2, 1882. The paper is full of inaccuracies; +it begins by placing Tomento (Tumento) ninety-five miles (for thirty) +along the river-course from the mouth, and he makes steam-launches 'take +from two to four days (say one) to go up to it.'] has never heard of the +former when he says 'from Axim to Taquah (Tákwá) there is no direct +route,' and he justly deprecates the latter. But he cries up the Bushua or +Dixcove-Tákwá line, upon which he has large concessions. I shall return to +this subject in a future chapter. + +On the north side of Mount Irvine is a second nullah, the Eswá, which +flows, like the Besáon, through the dense growth of bush covering the +eastern uplands. A few minutes' walk along the right bank leads to a +broadening of the bed, a swamp during the Rains and a field of cereals in +the Dries. Thence we plunge into the jungle, and after a couple of hundred +yards come upon signs of mining. In the Eswá bed, where the gulch is +choked by two mounds or hillocks, appear the usual 'women's washings,' +shallow pits like the Brazilian _catas_, whence the pay-dirt has been +extracted. On the right bank, subtending the bed, their husbands have sunk +the usual chimney-hole to scratch quartz from the bounding-wall of the +reef. These rude beginnings of shafts reach a depth of 82 feet, and +perhaps more. All are round, like the circular hut of the African savage; +similarly in Australia the first pits were circular or oval. They are +descended in sweep-fashion by means of foot-holes, and they are just large +enough for a man to sit in and use his diminutive tool. The quartz is sent +up to grass by a basket, and carried to the hut. After a preliminary +roasting, the old custom of Egypt, it is broken into little bits and made +over to the women, who grind it down upon the cankey-stone which serves to +make the daily bread. In some parts of Africa this is men's work, and it +is always done at night, with much jollity and carousing. + +I named this place the 'Axim Reef.' It had been taken by Dr. J. Ogilby +Ross, formerly district medical officer, Axim, and now preparing to +explore the regions behind the Ancobra sources. He allowed, however, his +prospecting term to elapse, and thus it has been secured by Mr. Grant for +Mr. J. Irvine. It taught us three valuable lessons. + +1. Wherever _catas_, or 'women's washings,' are found, we can profitably +apply the hydraulic system of sluicing and fluming not by an upper +reservoir only, but also from below by a force-pump. Water is procurable +at all seasons by means of Norton's Abyssinian tubes, [Footnote: The +Egyptian campaigners seem to have thought of these valuable articles +somewhat late in the day. Yet two years ago I saw one working at +Alexandria.] and the brook-beds, dammed above and below, will form +perennial tanks. I am surprised that English miners on the Gold Coast have +not borrowed this valuable hint to wash from the people who have practised +it since time immemorial. Wherever we read, as on Mr. Wyatt's map, +'Gold-dust found in all these streams;' 'Natives dive for gold in the +dry,' and 'Old gold-shafts all along this track,' we should think of +'hydraulicking.' + +2. The natives, here and elsewhere, prospect for and work the bank-reefs +after the subtending gutter-bed has proved auriferous. There is, however, +no connection between the two, and the precious metal in the subsoil is +either swept down by the floods or washed out of the sides, as we shall +see on the Ancobra River. + +3. The negroes, who ignore pumps and steam-navvies, have neglected the +obvious measure of deep-digging in all the stream-beds, where much +detrital gold and even nuggets will assuredly be found. This should be +done either by shafting or by opening with 'steam-navvies' the whole +course of the channel during the 'Dries.' + +Regaining the main road and passing towards the northern town, which is +separated from southern Axim by the fort and the grassy drill-ground, we +cast a look at a heap of rotting cases at last stored under a kind of +shed. Though labelled 'Akim' by the ungeographical manufacturer, they +contain a board-house, with glass windows and all complete, intended for +Axim, and eventually for the District-commissioner, Tákwá. But, with a +futility worthy of the futile African, certain authorities at +Head-quarters, after buying and landing the proposed bungalow, which +probably cost 500_l_., discovered that they could not afford the expense +of sending it to its destination. Consequently it was made over to the +white ants, and it has now duly qualified for fuel. + +At the end of the northern town a noble bombax notes the last +resting-place of Europeans; and on it hangs a tale deserving a place in +'Spiritualistic prints.' A certain M. Thiebaut, transport-manager to the +French Tákwá-Company, died at Axim, and was here buried in July 1881. Many +persons, including Mr. Grant's mother and wife, declare that they saw +during broad daylight his 'spirit' standing over his grave. And no wonder +if he walked; a decent 'ghost' would feel unhappy in such a 'yard,' then a +receptacle for native impurities. We represented the case to Mr. Alexander +Allan, who succeeded poor Captain O'Brien, and that active and energetic +'new broom' at once took steps to abate the nuisance. The 'ghost' has not +been seen since its last home has been surrounded by a decent paling and +inscribed 'Ci-gît Thiebaut.' The same pious service was then done for one +of our countrymen, Mr. Crawford who died at Axim in the same year. + +Leaving on the left a neat bungalow, the 'Effuenta House,' we see to +seaward of it the wooded knoll Bosomato. [Footnote: Abosom, Obosom or +Bosom, vulg. Bossum, are imaginary beings, guardians and so forth, +worshipped by the people and called 'fetishes' by Europeans. The word +'fetish' is properly applied only to charms, philters, amulets, and all +that genus. See p. 78, _Wit and Wisdom from West Africa_, London, +Tinsleys, 1865.] Here a thatched hut shows where the late M. Bonnat +proposed to build a trading establishment, and to disembark his goods +despite rock and reef. A few yards further the road is crossed by the +Breviya ('where life ends'), another foul lagoon-stream, haunted by sirens +and crossed by a corduroy-bridge. It leads to a village of the same name, +which the Anglo-African calls 'Stink-fish Town,' [Footnote: As usual it is +a translation; the natives call the preserve 'bomom,' from 'bon,' to +stink.] alluding tersely and picturesquely to its sun-dried produce. + +From this knot of huts and hovels we turn sharp to the east, or inland, +and presently enter the Apatim or Bujiá concession, which has been leased +for mining purposes to Mr. Irvine. There is a shorter road further north, +but it is barred, we were assured, by a bad swamp. Our path, fairly open, +ran up and down a succession of round-topped, abrupt-flanked hills, thrown +together without system, and showing no signs of a plateau. They are +parted by creek-valleys, gulches, and gullies, thick with tangled +vegetation and varying in depth from a few feet to two and even three +hundred. Many of them carry water even in the driest season. The country +is remarkably like that behind Cape Coast Castle, where the Home +Government, during the last Ashanti war (1873-74), proposed to lay down a +tramway. + +The land is not heavily timbered, but there is wood sufficient for +everyday purposes. Its chief growth is the spiny bombax, whose timber is +hardly durable enough for permanent shafting. Here, however, and in all +the mines upon and near the seaboard, carpenter-work should be imported +from England; it will be at once cheaper and better. The country is +everywhere seamed with reefs and ridges of naked quartz, beginning near +the coast and striking in the right direction. There must be many more +underground, and all will be bared by 'washing' the country. Mr. R. B. N. +Walker, whose energy and enterprise obtained this, as well as other +concessions, tells me that during a second visit one of his company +'picked up two or three small pieces of quartz showing "free gold" among +the refuse around the native pits.' + +We progressed slowly enough, as we delayed to botanise, to net +butterflies, [Footnote: Our large collection all came to grief, because we +had neglected to carry camphor. The hint may be useful to those who follow +us.] and to shoot for specimens. The path crossed and recrossed the Impima +rivulet, which in parts was dammed and double-dammed; its bed of +quartz-gravel and red ironstone again suggested deep digging. After a two +hours' stroll we traversed the snaking course by a rude bridge, and +presently came to the half-way plantation, Impatási: it is faced by a +dwarf clearing, and we noted a fine clump of bamboo-cane. The next village +was Edu-Kru, marked upon the maps 'Edu.' We then passed over the dry bed +of the Bujiá wady, which looked as 'fit' as the Impima; and, at about +twenty-five yards north of the bed we breasted the rough ascent of the +Apatim Hill. + +Here we turned to the right and found Mr. Grant's trial-shaft. It had been +sunk amongst a number of round holes dug by the native miner, and it +appeared to us that they had been working the southern butt-end of the +eastern reef. He had preferred it to another pit sunk a little distance +from the centre by a man named Jones, whose venture yielded the poorest +results. Cameron drew my attention to the necessity of 'hydraulicking' +this hill-side; and from three pounds of its yellow clay, gathered at +random, we washed about fourpence worth of gold-dust, upwards of 8_l_. a +ton. Other specimens assayed 1 oz. 13 dwts. and 13 grains. The quartz at a +little lower than a fathom had yielded poorly, [Footnote: Messieurs +Johnson and Matthey found only 0.650 oz. gold and 0.225 silver.] but +better results were expected from a deeper horizon. + +A few minutes of uphill-walk led us to the little Apatim village, our +objective. We had spent three hours and a half over a distance which would +be easily covered in two. The march may be about two and a half miles +(direct geographical) from Axim, and five along the native path. During +the night my companion took a good observation of Castor and Pollux, and +with the aid of his chronometer laid down the position of the Apatim +village at N. lat. 4ş 55' and W. long. (G.) 2ş 14' 2". Consequently the +nearest point from Central Axim is 2,200 yards, and 200 from the shore. +The north-western angle runs clean across the Ancobra River. [Footnote: +Mr. Walker wrote to me, 'I am inclined to believe that the concession will +be found to extend to the River Ankobra on the west and north-west sides. +But I do not feel certain that this would be of any material advantage, +the distance from Axim by land being so short, and the road between that +port and the property being capable of improvement, so as to render +transport a matter of small expense.'] The concession measures 4,000 +square yards, the centre being an old native shaft a little north of the +Bujiá bed. The quadrangle lies between N. lat. 4ş 53' 56" and 4ş 55' 56", +and W. long. (G.) 2ş 12' 48" and 2ş 14' 48". The lease costs 12_l_. per +annum, paid quarterly, and 120_l_. when the works shall open. Its lessor +had forbidden his fraudulent people to prospect or to mine, because, as +usual, they systematically robbed him of his royalty. This universal +practice has made the kings and chiefs throughout the country ready and +even anxious to sell mining-lands for small sums which will be paid +honestly and regularly. They are also fully alive to the prospective +advantages of European staffs settling amongst them. Like them we shall +find the systematic dishonesty and roguery of the natives a considerable +drawback; the fellows know good stone at sight and can easily secrete it. +The cure for this evil will be the importation of labour, especially of +Chinese labourers. + +At Apatim, the name of the district as well as the village, we were +civilly received by the chief, Kwábina Sensensé. He is also lessor of the +unfortunate Akankon concession, and his right to sell or to let either of +them has been seriously disputed. This practice, again, may lead, unless +checked, to serious difficulties. When the local government shall have +established a regular department and a staff of Gold-commissioners, every +owner should be compelled legally to prove his title to the land. West +Africans know nothing of yards and fathoms; they have hardly any words to +express north or south. [Footnote: The four points are taken from the +buried body, the feet being to the east and the head lying west.] +Consequently they will sell, either wittingly or in their ignorance of +dimension and direction, the same ground, or parts of it, to two or three +purchasers. Indeed, they would like nothing better, and consequently +'jumpers' must be expected. + +Sensensé is a dark man, apparently on the wrong side of fifty. His grizzly +beard, grown comparatively long, his closely-trimmed mustachios, and his +head-cloth, worn like a turban, made me take him at first sight for a +Moslem. He has a cunning eye, which does not belie his reputation. His fad +is to take money and to do no work for it; he now wants us to pay for the +clearing of an uncleared path. The villagers fear him on account of +certain fetish-practices which, in plain English, mean poison; and he +keeps up their awe by everywhere displaying the outward signs of magic and +sorcery. A man with this gift can rise at night when all sleep; cast off +his body like a snake's slough; become a _loup-garou_; shoot flames from +eyes and ears, nose, mouth, and arm-pits; walk with his head on the ground +and kill man either by drinking his blood or by catching his _kra_ +(_umbra_), which he boils and devours. Here the sign of 'fetish' is mostly +the _koro_, or pot full of rubbish. At Axim and Akankon we shall find our +chief a mighty bore, each visit being equivalent to a bottle of gin. + +After a restful sleep in the cool and pleasant air of Apatim, we proceeded +to visit the valley east of the settlement, despite Sensensé's warning +that the ground was 'fetish.' He had made the same objection to M. Bonnat, +his evident object being to keep the rich placer for private use or for +further sale. There are evil reports about the origin of the Frenchman's +fatal illness after disregarding this and similar warnings. The deep and +steep-banked depression runs north-south, and is apparently the head of +the Bujiá stream. The vegetation, especially near the water, which flows +some 300 feet below the village, was exceedingly dense and tangled, except +where the ground had been cleared for bananas, maize, or ground-nuts. The +bottom, especially at the sharp corners, gave the idea of exceeding +richness; and there were many old works apparently deserted. The +'fetish-pot' stood everywhere, filled with oil, water, and palm-wine, +leaves, cowries, eggs, and all manner of filth. This stuff, stirred by the +_komfo_ diviner, answers questions and enables man to soothsay. It also +corresponds with the _obeah_ of the West Indies, the _ubio_ of the Efik +race, a charm put into the ground to hurt or kill. How hot the rich hole +was! What a perspiration and what a thirst came out of the climb! + +In the evening we walked about half a mile to the south-west of the +village, and prospected the central shaft, whence the measurements were +made. Here it is sunk in a western reef, palpably running parallel with +the eastern, which we first inspected. And this visit gave us a fair idea +of the property. It consists of at least three ridges of clay running from +north to south, and each containing one or more meridional walls of +quartz. Some of the latter may turn out to be 'master lodes.' + +I regret that this fine Apatim concession was not thrown into the market +before the so-called 'Izrah.' The distance from Axim to the mining-ground +is so small that provisions and machinery could be transported for a +trifle. The village lies 220 feet above sea-level; and a hillock in its +rear, perhaps 80 feet higher, commands a noble view, showing Axim Bay: it +could be used as a signal-station. The rise is a fine, healthy position +for the dwellings to be occupied by the European staff, and in such air +white men could work for years. + +Moreover, the short distance from the shore offers peculiar advantages for +'hydraulicking.' Flumes and sluices could carry the golden subsoil to the +sea and discharge it into a series of tanks and cisterns, which would be +cradled for 'pay-dirt.' Finally, it will be easy to baffle the plundering +negro workman by sending all stone containing free gold to be worked in +England, where superior appliances extract more than enough to pay +transport-costs. Indeed, it is a question with me whether, despite great +expenses, reduction at home even of inland produce will not be found +preferable. [Footnote: Mr. C. H. Creswick, of the Gold Coast Mining +Company, kindly drew up for me the following table of expenses from +Abontiyakon (his diggings) to England, and the costs of reducing a ton of +ore. + +_l s. d._ +3 15 0 canoe-transport to the Abonsá River. +1 10 0 Abonsá to Axim by a boat of thirteen hands carrying five tons +0 3 6 landing at Axim and shipping on board steamer. +1 15 0 freight and landing charges at Liverpool. +0 15 0 carriage to reduction-works. +2 12 6 costs of reduction. +---------- +8 11 0 which practically would rise to 9_l_. or 10_l_. + +For local reduction Mr. Creswick calculates the outlay at 2_l_. per ton, +including interest on prime cost of machinery, allowance for wear and +tear, and labour-pay.] This remark applies only to rich ore; the poorer +can be worked upon the spot. + +We returned to Axim with the highest opinion of 'Apatim,' and I rejoiced +to hear that the mine will be opened without delay. + + + +CHAPTER XVII. + +THE RETURN--VISIT TO KING BLAY; ATÁBO AND BÉIN. + +I spare my readers the slightest description of the troubles that attended +our departure from Axim on January 31. Briefly, we began loading at dawn +and the loads were not headed before 10 A.M. + +The black caravan, or rather herd, was mustered by its guide and manager, +the energetic W. M. Grant. His _personnel_ consisted of seven Kruboys from +Cape Palmas and forty-three Axim carriers, who now demand eight and +sixpence for a trip which two years ago cost a dollar. They stray about +the country like goats, often straggling over four miles. As bearers they +are the worst I know, and the Gold Coast hammock is intended only for +beach-travelling. The men are never sized, and they scorn to keep step, +whilst the cross-pieces at either end of the pole rest upon the head and +are ever slipping off it. Hence the jolting, stumbling movement and the +sensation of feeling every play of the porters' muscles, which make the +march one long displeasure. Yet the alternative, walking, means fever for +a new comer. On return we cut long bamboos and palm-fronds and made the +Krumen practise carrying, Hindu-fashion, upon the shoulder. + +The rest of the moving multitude was composed of the servantry and the +camp-followers. One _bouche inutile_ bore a flag, a second carried a gun, +and so forth, the only principle being to work as little as possible and +to plunder all things plunderable. There were exceptions. Joe (Kwasi +Bedeh) of Dixcove, Cameron's old servant, who boasts of being a pagan, and +who speaks English, French, and Dutch, a handy and intelligent young +fellow, who can cook, sew, carpenter, or lead a caravan--in fact, can +serve as factotum--and his accounts, marvellous to recount, are honestly +kept. I should want no better servant in these coast-countries and in +exploring the far interior. The cook, 'Mister Dawson,' of Axim, is a +sturdy senior of missionary presence: having been long employed in that +line, he wears a white tie on Sundays, and I shrewdly suspect him of +preaching. A hard worker, beginning early and ending late, he is an +excellent stuffer of birds and beasts, and the good condition of our +collection is owing entirely to him. His son, Kwasi Yau (Sunday Joe), is a +sharp 'boy' in the Anglo-Indian sense. The carpenter, our model idler, who +won't work and can't work, receives 3_l_. per mens., when $8 should be the +utmost; we cleared him out on return to Axim. Meanwhile he saunters about +under an umbrella, and is always missing when wanted for work. + +Our companions and body-guards are Bianco and Nero, both bought by Cameron +at L'pool for a suspiciously trifling sum. The former is a small +smooth-haired terrier, who dearly loves to bark and bite, and who shows +evident signs of early training in the cab-line. A dog with all the +manners of a doggess, he eventually found a happy home in the fort, Axim. +The second, a bastard Newfoundland with a dash of the bloodhound, and just +emerging from puppyhood, soon told us the reason why he was sold for a +song. That animal was a born murderer; he could not sight a sheep, a goat, +or a bullock without the strongest desire to pull it down; therefore he +had been sold into slavery, African and old-English fashion, instead of +being hanged. He had fine qualities--obedience, fidelity, affection, a +grand voice, and a ferocious presence. All these good gifts, however, were +marred by an over-development of destructiveness. He survived his journeys +by passing many of his hours in the water, and he was at last 'dashed' to +Dr. Roulston, of Tákwá. + +We took once more the northern road to Brévia, or 'Stink-fish Town,' and +crossed its tongue of red clay bounded by the bed of the Anjueri stream. +Here again appeared a large block of greenstone deeply grooved by the +grinder. Thence we debouched upon the surf-lashed shore, tripped over by +the sandpiper and the curlew and roped by the bright-flowered convolvulus. +Streaks of the auriferous black sand became more frequent and promising as +we advanced. + +We ran close to Akromasi, or One-tree Point, upon whose flat dorsum linger +the bush-grown ruins of a fort. It was named Elisa Cartago by its +founders, the Portuguese, who were everywhere haunted by memories of the +classics. Bowdich [Footnote: Folio, p. 271.] is eminently in error when he +places the remains 'at the extreme navigable point of the river,' and +opines that the work was built by Governor Ringhaven (Ruyghaver), buried +at Elmina in 1700. He was misinformed by Colonel Starrenberg, a Dutch +officer who canoed three days up the Bosom Prah River, a fact probably +unknown to Commodore Commerell. Bosman [Footnote: Letter I. 1737.] shows +'Elisa Cartago op den Berg Ancober,' crowning the head of Akromasi Point, +with a road leading up to the palisades which protect the trade-houses. +Lieutenant Jeekel, [Footnote: Map of the former Dutch possessions on the +Gold Coast (districts of Apollonia, Azim, Dixcove, Sekondi, Chama, and +El-Mina), by Lieut. C. A. Jeekel, Royal Dutch Navy. Lithographed at the +Topographical Depôt of the War Office, Major C. W. Wilson, R.R., Director, +1873. It extends only from the Ebumesu to the Sweet River (Elmina) and up +the Ancobra valley; and it is best known for the seaboard.] an excellent +authority, also places it at the river-mouth. According to some it was +taken in early days by the French, who still hold it. Captain Ellis has +transferred to this site the story of Fort Eguira, an inland, or rather +up-stream, work, destroyed, as Dr. Reynhaut and others tell us, in an +'elendige manier' (a piteous way). + +The gallant Mynheer commanding fought the natives till his men were shot +down, after using 'rock-gold' (nuggets) for bullets. He rolled sundry +powder-barrels under the palaver-hall, and stationed there a boy with a +match to be applied when he stamped on the floor. He then flung open the +gates, hung out a flag of trace, and invited the bloodthirsty savages, who +were bent on killing him by torture, to take the hoard of gold for which +the attack was made. When all crowded the great room he reproached them +with their greed of gain, gave the sign, and blew them and himself into +eternity. I am told by a good authority that the natives, whose memories +are tenacious on some points, will not show to strangers the ruins which +cost their forefathers so dear. + +The last village on the sands is Kukakun, where the wreck of a schooner +saddens the scene. Within a few hundred yards of Akromasi we bent abruptly +eastward and exchanged the sands for the usual stiff soil of red clay. The +gut is formed by the point-bluff and a southern block, and the surface is +covered with dense second-growth--pandanus, the false sugar-cane, ferns +large and small, and the sloth-tree, the Brazilian _ubá_ or Preguiça, with +tall, thin white trunk and hanging palmated leaves. The African palm-birds +(orioles of the _Merulidć_ family), whose two colours, red (_ntiblii_) and +golden yellow (_enadsi_), apparently divide them into as many fighting +factions, give a touch, a bright colour to the dulness, and chatter over +their pensile homes, which strangers would mistake for cocoa-nuts. + +Severely hustled and horribly shaken up, we ran down the little valley of +the Avin streamlet. It comes from afar, heading, they say, in Abasakasu, a +region where gold abounds. In three-quarters of an hour we had cleared the +four short miles which separate Axim from the Ancobra ferry. This is the +line of a future tramway, which will transport goods from the port to the +river; at present they must be shipped in bar-boats, which cost much and +carry little. The ground divides itself into three sections--the red clay +north of Axim; the sands, whose green-grown upper levels are fitted to +support iron-pot sleepers; and the Avin valley, which debouches upon the +left bank of the Ancobra. The first and the last divisions are safe for +creosoted wood. My friend Mr. Russell Shaw would, I doubt not, take the +contract for 4,000_l_., and a macadamised cart-road could be made for +500_l_. + +This would be the beginning of a much-wanted change. At present the prices +of transport are appalling. The French mines pay from 2_l_. to 2_l_. +10_s_. per ton from England to Axim; from Axim to Tákwá, forty miles by +river and thirty by land, costs them 600 francs (24_l_.) per ton. +Moreover, native hands are not always forthcoming. + +The Ancobra River, the main artery and waterway of this region, must not +be written after the Jonesian or modern mode, 'Ankobra' and 'Ankober,' nor +with Bosman 'Rio Cobre' (River of Copper). It has evidently no connection +with Abyssinian Ankober. To the native name, 'Anku' or 'Manku,' the +Portuguese added Cobra, expressing its snaky course. Bowdich, followed by +many moderns, calls it Seënna, for Sánmá or Sánumá, meaning 'unless a gale +(of wind).' The legend is that a savage and murderous old king of the +Apollonians, whose capital was Atábo, built a look-out upon a tall +cocoanut-tree, and declared that nothing but a storm could lay it low. +Sánmá is still the name of the settlement on the right bank near the +rivermouth. + +We rested at Kumprasi, a few huts close to the _embouchure_ of the +iron-bedded Avin streamlet and backwater. The little zinc-roofed hut, +called by courtesy a store, belonging to Messieurs Swanzy, was closed. +Katubwé, the northern hill on the left bank, had been bought, together +with Akromasi Point and the Avin valley, by the late M. Bonnat, who +cleared it and began shafting it for gold in the usual routine way. During +the last six months it has been overgrown with dense vegetation. Mr. +Walker believes, not unreasonably, that this lode is connected with the +Apatim or Bujiá reefs. + +Ferrying across, we could note the wild features of the Ancobra's mouth. +The bar, which in smooth weather allows passage to a load of five tons, +not unfrequently breaks at an offing of four miles, and breaks obliquely. +The gape is garnished on either side by little black stumps of rocks, and +the general effect is very unpleasant. A fine school of sharks fattens on +the fish inside the bar. At this season the entrance narrows to a few +feet, the effect of a huge sandspit on the right lip, and carries only six +feet of water. During the rains it will rise eleven feet at Sánmá, and at +Tumento twenty-four feet in a day, falling with the same dangerous +rapidity. We shall see more of the Ancobra, which here separates two +districts. Between it and Cape Threepoints the land is called Avaláwé; and +the westward region, extending to Cape Apollonia, is named Amrehía, the +Amregia of Jeekel and Dahse, meaning, 'where people meet.' + +We halted for breakfast at Sánmá, where Messieurs Swanzy have another +storehouse, and where the French Company is building one for itself with +characteristic slowness. The settlement is ill-famed for the Chigo or +jigger (_Pulex penetrans_), unknown in my day upon the West African coast. +It has killed men by causing gangrenous sores. From 'Tabon,' [Footnote: +'Tabon' is evidently corrupted from the popular greeting ''Sta bom?' (Are +you well? How d'e do?)] the Brazil, it crept over to Săo Paulo de Loanda, +and thence it spread far and wide up and down coast, and deep into the +interior. This fact suggests that there may be truth in the theory which +makes the common flea of India an immigrant from Europe. + +At 1 P.M. we resumed our way along the beach, under sunshine tempered by +the 'smokes.' These mists, however, are now clearing away for the +tornado-season, and 'insolation' will become more decided. We ran by +sundry little bush-villages: their names will be found in my companion's +careful route-survey. I shall notice only those which showed something +notable. + +There is sameness in the prospect, which, however, does not wholly lack +interest. Soon after dawn the village urchins begin disporting themselves +among the breakers and billows upon broken bits of boat, while their +fathers throw the cast-net nearer shore. The brown-black pigs and piglets +root up the wet sand for shell-fish; and, higher up, the small piebald +cattle loiter in the sun or shade. From afar the negro-groups are not +unpicturesque in their bright red and brimstone yellow sheets, worn like +Roman togas. A nearer view displays bridgeless, patulous noses, suggesting +a figure of [Symbol: Figure-8 on its side.]; cheek-bones like molehills, +and lips splayed out in the manner of speaking-trumpets: often, indeed, +the face is a mere attachment to the devouring-apparatus. Throughout the +day sexes and ages keep apart. The nude boys perch upon stones or worn-out +canoes. Their elders affect the shade, men on one side of the village and +women on the other. All the settlements are backed by cocoa-trees in lines +and clumps. Those who view Africa biliously compare them with hearse-plumes; +I find in them a peculiar individuality and likeness to humankind. There +is the chubby babe, six feet high; the fast-growing 'hobbedehoy;' the +adult, bending away from you like a man, or, woman-like, inclining towards +you; there is the bald, shrunken senior; and, lastly, appears death, lean +and cold and dry. + +Between sea and settlement stand the canoes, flat-bottomed and tip-tilted +like Turkish slippers; where the land is low and floods are high, each is +mounted upon four posts. Fronting and outside the village stands a +wall-less roof of flat matting, the palaver-house. The settlement is +surrounded by a palisade of fronds stripped from the bamboo-palm and +strengthened by posts; the latter put forth green shoots as soon as stuck +in the ground, and recall memories of Robinson Crusoe. The general +entrance has a threshold two to two and a half feet high. The tenements +are simple as birds' nests, primitive as the Highlander's mud-cabin and +shieling of wattle and heather. The outer walls are of bamboo-palm fronds, +the partitions are of bamboo-palm matting, and the roofs are of +bamboo-palm thatch. Each place has its _osafahin_, or headman, and each +headman has his guest-house, built of better material, swish or adobe. + +The only approach to grandeur are the long surges and white combers of the +mournful and misty Atlantic. They roll like the waving prairie-land, curl +their huge heads, and dash down in a fury of foam. 'On the top of a billow +we ride,' with a witness. Here and there black dots peer through the surf, +and to touch them is death. This foul shore presents a formidable barrier +to landing: there absolutely is no safe place between Apollonia and the +Ancobra. European employés avoid tempting the breakers; they disembark and +re-embark for home, and that is all. Mr. Grant assures us that there is no +risk; Mr. Grillett, who has worked the coast since 1875, says the +contrary; no man knows it better or fears it more. Some places are worse +than others; for instance, Inenyápoli is exceptionally dangerous. The sea +is shallow, and ships, requiring eight fathoms, must, to be safe, anchor +four miles out. The coast-soundings in the Admiralty charts are positively +unsafe, and will remain so until revised. On the other hand, the reefs and +rocks of Axim Bay have wholly disappeared, with some exceptions seen off +Kikam and Esyáma. + +Looking inland we find the shore mostly subtended by a _marigot_, or +salt-water lagoon, a miniature of those regular rivers which made the +Slave Coast what it was. And along the sea we can detect its presence by +the trickling of little rills guttering and furrowing the sandy surface. +The formation of these characteristic African features, which either run +parallel with or are disposed at various angles to the coast, is +remarkably simple. There is no reason to assume with Lieutenant R. C. Hart +that they result from secular upheaval. [Footnote: Page 186, _Gold Coast +Blue Book_. London, 1881]. The 'powerful artillery with which the ocean +assails the bulwarks of the land' here heaps up a narrow strip of high +sand-bank; and the tails of the smaller streams are powerless to break +through it, except when swollen by the rains. They maintain their level by +receiving fresh water at the head and by percolation through the beach, +while most of them are connected with the sea. + +We halted for rest at the Esyáma village; its landmarks are the ronnier, +the glorious palmyra (_Borassus flabelliformis_), here called 'women's +cocoa-tree.' The village looked peculiarly neat with its straight, sandy +street-roads, a quarter of a mile long; and the tenements generally are +better than those of Axim. We noticed the usual feature, a long thatched +barn of yellow clay--school-cum-chapel. The people are fond of planting +before their doors the _felfa_, croton or physicnut (_Jatropha curcas_), +whose oil so long lighted Lisbon. It is a tree of many uses. Boys suck the +honey of the flower-stalk; and adults drink or otherwise use, as +corrective of bile, an infusion of the leaves and the under bark. They +could not give me the receipt for the valuable preparation of the green +apple, well known to the Fantis of Accra. + +After returning to Axim we heard of rich diggings two hours' march inland, +or north with easting from Esyáma. They are called 'Yirima,' or +'Choke-full'--that is, of gold. The site is occupied by King Blay's +family, and the place is described as containing three or four reefs which +have all been more or less worked by the natives. After we left the coast +Yirima was visited by Mr. Grant, who reported it as exceptionally +promising. + +About sunset we hit the Ebumesu, or 'Winding Water.' The people declare +that it had a single mouth till the earthquakes of July 1862, which shook +down Accra, raised a divide, and made a double _embouchure_. The eastern +fork, known as the Páná, is the drain of a large and branchy lagoon, +brackish water, bitumen-coloured or brassy-yellow, with poisonous +vegetation, and bounded by mangroves abounding in tannin. These +water-forests grow differently from the red and white rhizophores of +Eastern Africa. We shall again be ferried over the upper part of the +western mouth. Both have bad bars, especially the latter. I therefore can +by no means agree with Mr. Walker's report:--'The western outlet of the +Ebumesu, near the village of Eku Enu, or Ekwanu, is quite practicable for +ordinary surf-boats during the dry season--say half the year--and even in +the middle of June I found the bar smooth and safe. Having for thirty +years worked some of the worst bars and beaches' (the Gaboon? or the +Sherbro?) 'along some hundreds of miles of the West Coast, I am able to +state that the Ebumesu bar might be safely utilised for landing goods and +machinery; but during the heavy surf of the rainy season goods could +always be disembarked at Axim, and, if necessary, carried along the beach +to the mouth of the Ebumesu, and thence by boat to the tramway from that +river to the mine.' This last statement is quite correct. + +All the Aximites described the Ebumesu bars as practically impassable. +Cameron and I agreed that the only way of entering them is by running the +boat ashore, unloading her, and warping her round the point, as we shall +afterwards do at Prince's. But the best line to the Izrah concession has +not yet been discovered. I strongly impressed the necessity of careful +search upon Mr. A. A. Robertson, the traffic-manager of the Company. For +the present I hold the surf along shore and the Ebumesu bar to be equally +dangerous. The land-tongue between the two streams is the favourite haunt +of mosquitoes and sand-flies, and it produces nothing save mud and +mangroves, miasma and malaria. Yet here in 1873-74 loyal and stout-hearted +King Blay defended himself against the whole Apollonian coast, which +actively sympathised with the Ashantis. [Footnote: Captain Brackenbury, +vol. ii, p. 29, _The Ashanti War_, &c., gives an account of King Blay +fighting the Ashantis on the Ebumesu.] He was at last relieved by the +Wásás (Wassaws) coming to his side; and now he has little to fear. He can +put some 5,000 musketeers into the field; and, during the late Ashanti +scare, he offered to aid us with 7,000, if we could supply the extras with +arms and ammunition. + +When the 'Queen of Shades' arose, and it became too dark to see the world, +we halted at the Sensyéré village, and found good sleeping-quarters in the +guest-house of the headman, Bato. Fortunately we had brought mattresses. +The standing four-poster of the country offers only cross-planks covered +with the thinnest matting. As the ancient joke of many a lugubrious +African traveller says, it combines bed and board. Next morning, despite +the chilly damp and the 'old-woman-cannot-see,' as the Scotch mist is here +called, our men were ready within reasonable limits. After two hours' +hammock we found ourselves at Atábo, capital of eastern Apollonia, about +to pay our promised return-visit to good King Blay. It is useless to +describe the settlement, which in no way differs from those passed on the +path. The country-people related its origin as follows:--A Fanti man from +the country between Secondee (Sekondi), or Fort Orange, and Shamah +(Chamah), at the mouth of the Bosom Prah, when driven out by war, first +founded 'Kabeku,' near the present place of that name. His sons built +Béin, or Behin, [Footnote: The aspirate is hardly audible. Captain +Brackenbury, generally so careful, manages to confound Béin and Benin.] +meaning a 'strong man,' and Atábo, in Fanti _atába_, the name of a tree +with a reddish-yellow fruit. The latter was paramount till late years, +when turbulent and unruly Béin was allowed to set up for herself an +independent king; and the sooner things return to the _status quo ante_ +the better for peace. + +King Blay's guest-house of whitewashed swish is a model of its kind. You +pass through a large compound, which contains the outhouses, into a broad, +deep verandah, generally facing away from the sea. It opens upon a central +room adorned with German prints of Scriptural subjects--Mariahilf, for +instance, all gaudy colour and gilt spangles. On each side of this piece +are sleeping-rooms. The furniture of the five is exceedingly simple--a +standing bedstead, a table, and a few wooden chairs. But Ahin Blay is a +civilised man who strews his floors with matting, and has osier +_fauteuils_ from Madeira. These quarters are quite wholesome and +comfortable enough for temporary use. They would be greatly improved by +mounting on pillars or piles; and they might serve for all seasons save +the rainy. + +Mr. Graham, who dispenses elementary knowledge to the missionary pupils, +came to us at once, and kindly offered his aid as 'mouf.' These useful +men, who serve as go-betweens and interpreters, are called 'scholars' by +the people, and are charged with making profit out of whites and blacks. +In the afternoon Mr. Graham brought me two neolithic stone-implements. We +then set out for the 'palace,' a large congeries of houses and huts, +guided by a mighty braying of horns and beating of drums, and by Union +Jacks, with the most grotesque adjuncts of men and beasts, planted in the +clean and sandy street-road. King Blay received us in his palaver-hall, +and his costume now savoured not of Europe, but of 'fetish.' He had been +'making customs,' or worshipping after country-fashion, and would not keep +us waiting while he changed dress. The cap was a kind of tall hood, +adorned with circles of cowries and two horns of the little bush-antelope; +the robe was Moorish, long and large-sleeved, and both were charged with +rolls of red, white, and blue stuff, supposed to contain grígrís, or +talismans. The Ashanti medal, however, was still there; indeed, he wore it +round his neck even on the march, when his toilette was reduced to a +waist-cloth and a billycock. After discussing palm-wine in preference to +trade-gin, we persuaded King Blay, despite all his opposition, that 'time +is gold,' and that with strange and indelicate haste we _must_ set out +early on the morrow for the Izrah mine. His main difficulty was about +clearing the path; he had issued strong orders upon the subject, but +African kings often command and no one cares to obey. The monarchy is +essentially limited, and the lieges allow no stretch of power, unless the +ruling arm be exceptionally long and strong. + +Hearing that the gold-hilted official swords of the King of Béin were for +sale, and wishing to inspect the place, we set off at 3.30 P.M. to cover +the 4,769 yards measured along the sands by Mr. Graham. Reaching our +destination, eighteen miles distant from Axim, we were carried up the long +straight street-road which leads to the old English fort. It is the normal +building, a house on bastions, both well and solidly made of stone and +lime. Amongst the materials I found a fine yellow sandstone-grit and a +nummulite so weathered that the shells stood out in strong relief. Both +were new to us on this trap-coast, and no one could say where they were +quarried; many thought they must have come from Europe, others that they +are brought from inland. The masonry of the sea-front was pitted with +seven large wounds, dealt by as many shells when we broke down our own +work. Such was the consequence of sympathising with the Ashantis in 1873, +when Axim also was bombarded. + +What changes these factory-forts have seen, beginning with the days of the +jolly old Hollanders, who, in doublets and trunk-hose, held high state, +commanding large garrisons and ruling the rulers of the land. What +banquets, what carousals, with _sopies_ of the best schiedam, and long +clay-pipes stuffed with the finest tobacco, when an exceptional haul of +gold-dust or captives had come to hand! But Time got the better of them; +the abolition of the export slave-trade cut the ground from under their +feet; diminished profits made economy necessary, and the forts were +allowed to become the shadows of their former selves. Then came the +cession to England, when all appeared running on the road to ruin. Now, +however, things are again changed, and 'Resurgam' may be written upon +these scenes of decay. The Mines will once more make the fortune of the +Gold Coast, and the old buildings will become useful as hospitals, and +store-houses, and barracoons for coolie emigrants. + +The Béin fort has been repaired and whitewashed inside by the lessees, +Messieurs Swanzy, whose agent, Mr. Carr, we found here in possession. +Unlike Axim, it still preserves intact the outer work with its dwarf +belfry over the strong doorway. But the cistern in the middle of this +slave-court must make the cleanly old Netherlanders turn in their tombs. + +Opposite the fort is the normal school-room, occasionally served by Mr. +Graham, of Atábo; Béin has a tide-waiter, but no pedagogue. Beyond it +rises the large and uneven swish-house of the 'King,' who has lately been +summonsed, as a defaulting debtor, to Cape Coast Castle: the single black +policeman who served the writ evidently looked upon us as his colleagues. +The people eyed us with no friendly glances; they were 'making custom' for +the ruler's return. The vague phrase denoted, in this case, a frantic +battering of drums, big and little; a squeaking of scrannel pipes; a +feminine 'break-down' of the most _effrénée_ description, and a general +libation to the Bacchus of Blackland. A debauched and drunken Ashanti, who +executed for our benefit a decapitation-dance, evidently wishing that we +had been its objects, thanked us ironically for a sixpence. We met some +difficulty in seeing the swords, which were _not_ to be sold. They were +the usual rusty and decayed fish-slicers; Cameron, however, was kind +enough to sketch them for me, and they will appear in my coming book. + +Most of the adult males had travelled inland to the Tákwá or French mines, +where the Apollonians bear the highest reputation. Whole gangs flock to +the diggings, bringing their own provisions and implements. Thus they have +begun working on tribute and contracting for piece-work. [Footnote: This +information was given to me by M. Plisson, traffic-manager to the +Company.] This is a favourable phase of the labour-question. At the same +time it is clear that the labourer can easily keep the richest specimens +for himself and palm off the worst stuff upon the stranger. + +Here we are next door to the Ivory Coast, and elephants, they say, are +still to be found within two days north of Béin. The hunters cross a broad +stream (the Tando?) and a dry swamp; they then enter an uninhabited +forest; and, after a couple of marches, they reach the animals' haunts. +Small tusks are at times brought in, but no Europeans, so far as I know, +ever killed a tusker in these wilds. My informants heard that a route from +Béin leads to Gyáman, and that it may be travelled without difficulty. + +The following note, by Mr. Edward L. McCarthy, describes an excursion from +Béin to the unvisited Essuá-tí, made by him in August 1881:-- + +'Accompanied by Prince John Coffee, heir to King Blay, three other chiefs, +their servants, and my own party of Krumen, we left the town of Béin, +Apollonia, to go up to the village in the bush called Essuá-tí. Half a +mile from the town we found canoes awaiting us, and in these we were poled +along for over half an hour over what in the dry season is a native path, +but now a narrow channel of water winding about in a dense jungle of +reeds. Here and there we came upon small hillocks covered with trees, in +which numerous monkeys sported about. Emerging from these reeds, one broad +sheet of water presented itself to the eye, encircled by a low shore +fringed with canes, bush, and palm-trees, and at its western extremity a +range of hills rose out of the background. The lagoon receives several +small streams, and empties itself into the sea by the Ebumesu river, its +mouth being about half-way between Béin and the Ancobra. According to the +natives the river used to be navigable to its mouth, but of late years has +become overgrown with reeds. A few years back they set to work to cut a +channel through them, but getting tired of the work gave it up. The length +of the lagoon appears to be about three to four miles, and about one to +one and a half in breadth. Its major axis runs parallel to the coastline, +or nearly due east and west. Twenty minutes' paddling brought us round the +point of a small headland, where we came in sight of a pretty lake-village +built upon piles, at some little distance from the shore, the whole +forming a most picturesque and animated scene. From house to house canoes +laden with people, plantains, &c., were passing to and fro; groups of +villagers, some standing, others sitting, upon the raised bamboo-platforms +outside their houses, were busy bartering fish for plantains, while the +children played around, apparently unconscious of any danger from falling +into the water. The settlement consisted of over forty houses, mostly of +bamboo, a few of "swish," forming one long irregular line, and three or +four standing away from the rest round a corner of land, after the Fanti +custom. These houses were built on a bamboo-platform supported by piles, +and raised above the water some three and a half feet. One half of the +platform is covered by the house; the other half, left free, is used to +fish from, for the children to play about on, and for receptions when +palavers are held. + +'The distance from the shore varies with the overflow of the lake, at the +time of my visit about thirty to forty yards, though for miles beyond this +the ground was saturated with water, whose depth varied from three and a +half to nine feet. The piles are made of stout sticks; the mode of driving +them in is to lash two canoes abreast by means of two sticks or paddles, +placed transversely, leaving an open space of about two and a half feet +between them. Two men in each canoe, and facing each other, then +vigorously twist and churn about the pole, or rather stick, into the soft +bottom of the lagoon. Some fifteen of these poles are thus driven in and +firmly braced together by cross-pieces, upon which the platform is +constructed, and on this again the house is built. + +'We stopped here to breakfast before ascending the Bousaha River; and, +while so doing, I counted at one time over forty natives sitting round us +on the platform. I was not without my fears that we should all be +precipitated into the water, but the structure, though in appearance frail +and very rude, was far stronger than what it looked. + +'I closely questioned the natives as to why they had built their village +upon the lake, and they invariably gave as their reason that they chiefly +fished at night; and, as the water often overflowed, they would have to +build their houses too far away to be able to come and go during the +night; whereas "now," they said, "we are close to where we catch our fish, +and we often catch them even from our houses." Underneath each house were +tied from one to five, and sometimes more, canoes. These were much +lighter, more rounded off in the keel, stem, and stern, than the +beach-canoes. + +'Three white men, they told me, had visited their village--Captain Dudley +in 1876, judging from the age of a child who was born at the time of his +visit; Captain Grant and Mr. Gillett, in 1878, I afterwards learnt, were +the other two. None of them went further into the interior. + +'After breakfast we crossed the lagoon, passing on our way several canoes +fishing in the middle. The water was very clear and blue, and of +considerable depth, judging from a stone dropped in. Unfortunately I had +no other means of sounding. Not until a dozen yards from the shore were +any signs of a stream discernible. Pushing aside some reeds, we entered a +narrow lane of water, varying from three feet to eighteen feet in width, +deep, and, according to the natives, navigable for three days by canoes. +This stream is known by the name of Bousaha, and the lagoon by Ebumesu. +After two hours' hard paddling in a northerly direction we stopped to walk +to the village of Níbá, a large place, principally engaged in raising food +for the coast fishing-villages and Béin, and also in elephant-hunting. + +'Elephants at the time of my visit were reported in large numbers two +days' journey in the bush, and the villagers were then organising a party +for a hunt. Outside the village I came across the skull of a young +elephant, from which I extracted the teeth. The only report of a white man +having been here before was long ago, when, some of the old men told me, +he came from Assini direction, but turned back again. The village was +neatly laid out in streets and was beautifully clean. + +'Another three hours' pull, still bearing northwards, brought us to the +village of Essuati, a smaller place than Níbá, but very prettily laid out +with trees, surrounded by seats in its central street. The people here, as +at Níbá, were mainly engaged in agriculture. + +'Crowds came to see the "white man," many of the women and children never +having been to Axim, the nearest place where whites are to be found, and, +consequently, had never seen one before. + +'After a few days' stay here I returned to the coast. While there I came +across a curious fish-trap, a description of which may not be +uninteresting. Across a stick planted in the river-bed a light piece of +bamboo was tied, and at its further extremity was suspended a string +carrying fish-hooks. Above these a broad piece of wood, suspended so as to +be half in and half out of the water, acted as a float and spindle. Above +this again were tied four large shells, so that when a fish is hooked the +shells begin to jingle, and the fishermen, hid in the bush, immediately +rush out and secure the fish.' + +[Illustration of fish trap.] + + + +CHAPTER XVIII. + +THE IZRAH MINE--THE IKYOKO CONCESSION--THE RETURN TO AXIM. + +The next day (February 2) showed me my objective, Izrah, after a voyage of +nearly three months. The caravan, now homeward-bound after a fashion, rose +early, and we hammocked in the cool and misty morning along shore to +Inyenápoli--the word means Greater Inyena, as opposed to Inyenachi, the +Less. In the house of Mr. J. Eskine I saw his tradesman bartering cloth +for gold-dust. The weighing apparatus is complicated and curious, and +complete sets of implements are rare; they consist of blowers, sifters, +spoons, native scales, weights of many kinds, and 'fetish gong-gongs,' or +dwarf double bells. + +Gold-dust is the only coin of the realm; and travellers who would pass +north of the Protectorate must buy it on the coast. It is handier than one +would suppose; even a farthing can be paid in it by putting one or two +grains upon a knife-tip, and there is a name, _peseha_ (Port. _peso_?), +for a pennyworth. Larger values go by weight; the _aki_ (_ackie_), +[Footnote: The word _aki_ sounds much like the Arab _roukkah_ or +_roukkiyah_. Its weight, the 16th of an ounce, never varies; but the value +ranges from 4_s_. 6_d_. to 5_s_., according as the ounce is worth 3_l_. +12_s_. to 4_l_. 10_s_., the average being assumed at 4_l_. Other +proportions are:-- + The _toku_ (carat-seed) = 5_d_. + The _benna_ = 2 _akis_. + The _periquen_, _pereguen_, or _peredroano_ = 32 _akis_, or two ounces in +weight; and ranging in value from 9_l_. to 10_l_. (Bowdich, p. 283). The +word is Ashanti, little used by the Fantis. + +For a list of these complicated gold weights, of which Mr. Grant has +promised me a set, see Appendix B, _ A Dictionary of the Asante and Fante +Language_, Rev. Christaller, Basel, 1881.] or sixteenth of an ounce, being +the unit of value. The people may be persuaded to take an English +sovereign, but they spurn a French napoleon. Amongst the many desiderata +of the Coast is a law making all our silver coins legal tenders. At +present the natives will scarcely take anything but threepenny-bits, new +and bright and bearing H.B.M.'s 'counterfeit presentment.' Copper has been +tried, but was made to fail by a clever District-commissioner, who refused +to take the metal in payment of Government dues. The old cowrie-currency, +of which the _tapo_, or score, represented two farthings, is all but +extinct. Its name will be preserved in the proverb, 'There is no market +wherein the dove with the pouting breast (the _cypraea_) has not traded.' +The same is the case with the oldest money, round and perforated +quartz-stones, which suggest the ring-coinage of ancient Egypt. From +Inyenápoli, preceded by King Blay, who so managed that a fair path had +been hastily cut through the bush, we struck inland, the course being +northwards, bending to the north-east and east. The first hour, covering +some three miles, lay partly over a flat plain of grass used for thatch, +pimpled with red anthills and broken by lines and patches of dense jungle. +These savannahs are common near the sea; we had already remarked one +behind Béin. They denote the 'false coast,' and they become during the wet +season almost impassable swamps and mud-fields. + +Then we struck the valley of 'Ebumesu, winding water,' whose approach, +rank with mire and corded with roots, is the Great Dismal Swamp of Dahome +in miniature. Here, seven and a quarter miles from the mouth, the stream +measures about twenty yards broad, the _thalweg_ is deep and navigable, +and the water, bitumen-coloured with vegetable matter, tastes brackish. +There is the usual wasteful profusion of growth. Ferns ramp upon the +trees; Cameron counted at Akankon two dozen different species within a few +hundred yards. Orchids bunch the boughs and boles of dead forest-giants; +and llianas, the African 'tie-tie,' varying in growth from a packthread to +a cable, act as cordage to connect the growths. + +There is evidently a shorter cut up the river, at whose lagoon-mouth craft +can be hired. Our ferryman with his single canoe wasted a good hour over +the work of a few minutes. We then remounted hammock and struck the 'true +coast,' a charming bit of country, gradually upsloping to the north and +east. The path passed through the plantation-villages, Benyá and Arábo, +growing bananas and maize, cassava and groundnuts, peppers and papaws, +cocoas and bamboo-palms (_Raphia vinifera_). The latter not only build the +houses, they also yield wine of two kinds, both, however, inferior to the +produce of the oil-palm (_Elais guineënsis_). The _adúbé_, drawn from the +cut spathe, which continues to yield for two or three months, is held to +be wholesome, diuretic, and laxative. The _inséfu_ is produced in +mortice-like holes cut along the felled trunk; they fill freely for a +fortnight to three weeks, when fires must be lighted below to make the +juice run into the pots. It is sweeter and better flavoured than the +former, but it is accused of being unwholesome. The people drink palm-wine +at different hours of the day, according to taste. The beverage is mild as +milk in the morning; after noon it becomes heady, and rough as the sourest +cider. The useful palm bears a huge bolster-like roll of fruit, which +should be tried for oil: Cameron brought home a fine specimen for Kew. +Here the land is evidently most fertile, and will form good farms for the +Company. Leaving Arábo, we forded the double stream called the Bilá, which +runs a few yards west of the concession. The banks are grown with rice, +showing how easily they will produce all the food necessary for the +labourers. The quality, moreover, is better, and the grain more nutritious +than the Chinese import. The bed of bright sand, supplying the sweetest +water, has in places been worked for gold by the women, but much remains +to be done. + +In another hour, making a total of six miles from Inyenápoli, we reached +our destination, Arábokasu, or 'One Stone for Top.' We lodged our +belongings in the bamboo-house newly built by Mr. Grant, finding it +perfectly fit for temporary use. Before I left Axim Mr. C. C. Robertson +landed there, instructed by the Izrah Company to choose a fair site for a +frame-house mounted on piles. It was presently made in England, but +unfortunately not after the Lagos fashion, with the bed-rooms opening upon +a verandah seven to nine feet broad, and a double roof of wood with +air-space between, instead of thatch and corrugated iron. The house +measures 52 x 32 feet, and contains four bed-rooms, a dining-room, and the +manager's office. A comfortable tenement of the kind costs from 300_l_. to +500_l_., an exceptional article 700_l_. + +We at once set out to cast a first glance upon the Izrah mine. The word is +properly Izíá, a stone, also the name of the man who began gold-digging on +the spot. This style of nomenclature is quite 'country-fashion.' +Apparently Izíá became Izrah to assume a 'Scriptural' sound; if so, why +not 'go the whole animal' and call it the Isaiah? + +This fine concession is a rectangular parallelogram, whose dimensions are +2,000 yards long from north to south, by a breadth of half. The village +stands outside the south-western angle, and the Fía rivulet runs through +the south-eastern corner. The surface is rolling ground, with a rise and a +depression trending from south-west to north-east. The whole extent, +except where 'bush' lingers, is an old plantation of bananas, manioc, and +ground-nuts. There is an ample supply of good hard timber, but red +pitch-pine or creosoted teak from England would last much longer. Amongst +the trees are especially noted the copal, the gamboge, rich in sticky +juice, the _brovi_, said to be the hardest wood, and the _dum_, or African +mahogany (_Oldfieldia africana_), well known in Ceylon as excellent +material for boat-building. There was an abundance of the Calabar-bean +(_Physostigma venenosum_), once used for an ordeal-poison, and now applied +by surgery in ophthalmic and other complaints. The 'tie-tie,' as +Anglo-Africans call the rope-like creepers, was also plentiful; it may +prove valuable for cordage, and possibly for paper-making. I was pleased +to see the ease with which the heaped-up jungle-growth is burnt at this +season and the facility of road-making. Half a dozen Kru-boys with their +matchets can open, at the rate of some miles a day, a path fit to carry a +'sulky;' and the ground wants only metalling with the stone which lines +every stream. At the same time I hold that here, as in Mexico, we should +begin with railways and tramways. Nor will there be any difficulty in +keeping down the jungle. The soft and silky Bahama-grass has been brought +from Sá Leone to Axim, where it covers the open spaces, and it grows well +at Akankon. There is no trouble except to plant a few roots, which extend +themselves afar; and the carpet when thick allows, like the orange-tree, +no undergrowth. + +The 'Izrah' concession is due to the energy and activity of Mr. R. B. N. +Walker, who has told its history. In March 1881, when he first visited it, +there had been a black 'rush;' the din and clamour of human voices were +audible from afar, and on reaching the mine he found some 300 natives hard +at work. I was told that the greatest number at one time was 2,000. The +account reminds us exactly of the human floods so famous in other parts of +the mining world. The men were sinking pits of unusual size along the +south-eastern slope of the hillock, where the great clearing now is. The +excitement was remarkable; and, negroes not being given to hard and +continuous labour without adequate inducement, the bustle and the uproar, +and the daily increasing numbers of miners flocking from considerable +distances, were evidence sufficient that there was an unusually good +'find.' Their pits, attaining a maximum of 12 feet square by 55 deep, +extended over some 150 yards from NN.E. to SS.W., with a breadth of about +20. From some of these holes rich quartz had been taken, one piece, the +size of a 32-pounder cannon-ball, yielding more than ten ounces of gold. A +shaft, however, soon caved in, for the usual reason: it had been +inadequately timbered and incautiously widened at the bottom to the shape +of a sodawater-bottle. All these works owed a royalty to Ahin Blay; but +his dues were irregularly paid, and consequently he preferred to them a +fixed rental of 100_l_. per annum. + +The following anecdote will show how limited is the power of these +'kings.' He of Apollonia wished to sell this southern patch of ground, +worked by the natives, it being, in fact, the terminal tail of the Izrah +reef and the key of the property. But one Etié, head-man of Kikam, bluntly +refused. Presently this chieflet agreed to sell to Mr. Grant the whole +tract, a length of one thousand fathoms from north to south, the breadth +being left undetermined. But Etié was deep in Messieurs Swanzy's books, +and he wanted ready money. The tempter came in the shape of Mr. Dawson, a +native missionary whom I met a score of years ago at Agbóme, and whose +name appears in all narratives of the last Ashanti war. Although an +employé of the Tákwá or French mine, he bought for himself, paying +200_l_., the best part of the reef (100 fathoms), leaving the butt-end, of +inferior value, to Mr. Grant. This was a direct breach of contract, and +might be brought into the local law-courts. I advised, however, an +arrangement _ŕ l'aimable_, and I still hope to see it carried out. + +Life at Arábokasu was pleasant enough. The site, rising about 120 feet +above ocean-level, permits the 'Doctor,' alias the sea-breeze, to blow +freshly, and we distinctly heard the sough of the surf. Mornings and +evenings were exceedingly fine, and during the cool nights we found +blankets advisable. These 'small countries' (little villages) are +remarkably clean, and so are the villagers, who, unlike certain +white-skins, bathe at least once a day. At this season we had nothing to +complain of mosquitoes or sand-flies, nor was 'Insektenpulver' wanted +inside the house. The only physiological curiosity in the settlement was a +spotted boy, a regular piebald, like a circus-pony; even his head grew a +triangular patch of white hair. We wanted him for the London Aquarium, but +there were difficulties in the way. Amongst the Apollonians albinoes are +not uncommon; nor are the children put to death, as by the Ashantis. Both +races cut the boss from hunchbacks after decease, and 'make fetish' over +it to free the future family from similar distortion. Our villagers told +us strange tales of a magician near Assini who can decapitate a man and +restore him to life, and who lately had placed a dog's head on a boy's +body. Who can 'doubt the fact'? the boy was there! + +I will now borrow freely from the diary kept during our five days' +inspection of the Izrah diggings. Cameron worked hard at a rough survey of +the ground which Mr. Walker had attempted with considerable success, +seeing that he carried only a pedometer and a small pocket-compass. My +proceedings were necessarily limited, as I had no authority to disburse +money. + +_February 3_.--The night had been somewhat noisy with the hyena-like +screams which startled our soldiers _en route_ to Kumasi. They are said to +proceed from a kind of hyrax (?) about the size of a rabbit; the Krumen +call it a 'bush-dog', and, as will appear, Cameron holds it to be a lemur. +The morning was cool, but not clear, and the country so far like the +'Garden of Eden' that there went up a mist from the earth and watered the +whole face of the ground. But the mist was a Scotch mist, which, in less +humid lands, might easily pass for fine rain; and the drip, drip, drip of +heavy dew-drops from the broad banana-leaves sounded like a sharp shower. +At this hour the birds are wide awake and hungry; a hundred unknown +songsters warble their native wood-notes wild. The bush resounds with the +shriek of the parrot and the cooing of the ringdove, which reminds me of +the Ku-ku-ku (Where, oh, where?) of Umar-i-Khayyám. Its rival is the +_tsil-fui-fui-fui_, or 'hair grown,' meaning that his locks are too long +and there is no one to cut or shave them. Upon the nearest tall tree, +making a spiteful noise to frighten away all specimens, sits the +'watch-bird,' or _apateplu_, so called from his cry; he is wary and +cunning, but we bagged two. The 'clock-bird,' supposed to toll every hour, +has a voice which unites the bark of a dog, the caw of a crow, and the +croak of a frog: he is rarely seen and even cleverer than 'hair grown.' +More familiar sounds are the _roucoulement_ of the pigeon and the tapping +of the woodpecker. The only fourfooted beast we saw was the small +bush-antelope with black robe, of which a specimen was brought home, and +the only accident was the stinging of a Kruboy by a spider more spiteful +than a scorpion. + +Reaching the ground after a ten minutes' walk, we examined the principal +reef as carefully as we could. The strike is nearly north-south, the dip +easterly, and the thickness unknown. The trial-shaft, sunk by Mr. Walker +in the centre of the southern line, was of considerable size, eight by +twelve feet; and the depth measured thirty, of which four held water based +upon clay-mud. The original native shafts to the south are of two kinds, +the indigenous chimney-pit and the parallelogram-shaped well borrowed from +Europeans. The latter varied in dimensions from mere holes to oblongs six +by seven feet; and all the more important were roofed and thatched with +pent-houses of palm-leaf, to keep out the rain. The shaft-timbering, also +a loan from foreigners, consisted of perpendicular bamboo-fronds tied with +bush-rope to a frame of poles cut from small trees; they corresponded with +our sets and laths. There were rude ladders, but useful enough, two +bamboos connected by rungs of 'tie-tie.' The 'sollars' were shaky +platforms of branches, but there was no sign of a winch. + +We set Krumen and porters to clear and lay out the southern boundary, and +to open a path leading direct to the beach. One would fancy that nothing +is easier than to cut bush in a straight line from pole to pole, +especially when these were marked by strips of red calico. Yet the moment +our backs were turned the wrong direction was taken. It pains one's heart +to see the shirking of work, the slipping away into the bush for a sleep, +and the roasting of maize and palm-nuts--'ground-pigs' fare,' they call +the latter--whenever an opportunity occurs. The dawdling walk and the +dragging of one leg after the other, with intervals to stand and scratch, +are a caution. Even the villagers appear incapable of protracted labour +unless it leads immediately to their benefit, and the future never claims +a thought. + +_February 4_.--After the south-eastern corner had been marked with a tall +cross, we opened a path from Arábokasu to the trial-shaft. We threw a +bridge of the felled trunks cumbering the clearing over the Fía rivulet, +and again examined its bed. Gold had been found in it by the women, and +this, as usual, gave rise to the discovery of its subtending reef. The +whole of the little river-valley extending to the sea should be bought and +worked; there is no doubt that it will turn out rich. In the channel we +found an outcrop of slates, both crumbling and compact; this is always a +welcome sign. To the east of the water there is a second quartz-reef, +running parallel with the upper ridge, and apparently untouched by the +pick. + +The next two days were spent in finishing the southern line and in +planting a post at the south-western extremity. Here we found that our +workmen had gone entirely wrong, and we were forced to repeat the work. I +had exposed myself over-freely to the sun, and could do little for the +next week: fortunately my energetic companion was in better condition. + +_February 7_.--Cameron took bearings from the south of the concession, +which he placed, with Mr. Walker, four geographical miles from the sea. +Other informants had exaggerated it to him, and M. Dahse writes six. After +1,000 to 1,200 yards he struck the 'false coast,' crossed a deep and fetid +swamp, and, after a short rise, came upon the miry borders of the Ebumesu. +He canoed 800 yards down-stream without difficulty; and, finding the water +brackish while the ebb-tide ran strong, he considered that this part was +rather a lagoon than a river. The people also assured us that it runs +along the coast, ending near and north of the Béin Fort-village. + +In the evening my companion and Mr. Grant walked to the north-west of the +concession; the place is called by Mr. Walker Iziá-bookah (Izíá Hill), but +the natives ignore the term. Here, at a distance of 900 yards north and by +west (true) of the Arábokasu village, they found and collected specimens +of a fine reef of hard white quartz. 'Women's washings' were numerous, +showing the proper way to begin working the ground. The right of +prospecting the whole of the section to the N.E. had been secured by Mr. +Walker for Mr. Irvine, and presently the 'Apollonian concession' appeared +in the mining journals. + +We had now done all we could; the circumstances of the case compelled us +to study the geology and topography of the property rather than its +geology and mineralogy. Nothing now remained save to _rebrousser chemin_. +Good King Blay, who had formally made over to me possession of the 'Izrah' +mine, left us for his own village, in order to cure an inflamed foot. He +attributed it to the 'fetish' of some unfriend; but it turned out to be +Guinea-worm, a malady from which many are suffering this season. We parted +upon the most friendly terms and arranged to meet again. + +Both of us came to the conviction that the 'Izrah Concession' will pay, +and pay well. But instead of the routine shafting and tunnelling it must +be treated by hydraulicking and washing away the thirty feet of auriferous +soil, whose depth covers the reef. The bed of the Fía will supply the +water, and a force-pump, worked by men, or preferably by steam-power. Thus +we shall keep the mine dry: otherwise it will be constantly flooded. +Moreover, the land seems to be built for ditching and sluicing, and the +trenches will want only a plank-box with a metal grating at the head. I +can only hope that the operations will be conducted by an expert hand who +knows something of the Californian or the Australian diggings. + +On February 8 we left Arábokasu, intending to march upon the 'Inyoko +Concession.' Our guide and people, however, seemed to change every five +minutes what they might call their 'minds,' and at last they settled to +try the worst, but to us the most interesting line. At 8 A.M. we struck +into the bush _viâ_ a heap of huts, the 'Matinga' village, at the +south-eastern corner of the fine mineral property. Here 'women's washings' +again appeared. At the Achyáko settlement we crossed the two branches of +the Fía. One measures twenty feet wide and two feet six inches deep in the +dry season; it runs a knot an hour, and thus the supply is ample. About a +mile further on we were carried across the Gwabisa stream, four feet wide +by eighteen inches deep, running over a bed of quartz-pebbles. This ended +the 'true coast.' + +The 'false coast' began close to the little settlement known as Ashankru. +It shows a fine quartz-reef, striking north fourteen degrees east. The +formation was shown by the normal savannah and jungle-strips. About noon +we were ferried over the eastern arm of the Ebumesu, known as the Pápá. I +have noted scanty belief in the bar of the Ebumesu proper, the western +feature. The eastern entrance, however, perhaps can be used between the +end of December and March, and in calm weather would offer little +difficulty to the surfboats transhipping machinery from the steamers. + +Beginning a little east of the Esyámo village, the Pápá lagoon subtends +the coast. We shot over it in the evening, and at night found quarters at +the Ezrimenu village marked Ebu-mesu in old maps. + +This return march of two hours or so had been a mere abomination. The +path, which had not been cleared, led through a tangle of foul and fetid +thicket, upon which the sun darted a sickly, malignant beam. Creepers and +llianas, some of which are spiny and poisonous, barred the thread of path, +which could not be used for hammocks. The several stream-beds, about to +prove so precious, run chocolate-tinted water over vegetable mire, rich, +when stirred, in sulphuretted hydrogen. The only bridges are fallen +trunks. Amongst the minor pests are the _nkran_, or 'driver,' the _ahoho_, +a highly-savoured red ant, and the _hahinni_, a large black formica +terribly graveolent; flies like the tzetze, centipedes, scorpions, and +venomous spiders, which make men 'writhe like cut worms.' There was a +weary uniformity in the closed view, and the sole breaks were an +occasional plantation or a few pauper huts, with auriferous swish, buried +in that eternal green. + + God made the country and man made the town, + +sang the silly sage, who evidently had never seen a region untouched by +the human hand. Finally, this 'Fía route' will probably become the main +line from Axim to the Izrah mine, and the face of the country will be +changed within a year. + +As I was still weak Cameron and Mr. Grant early next morning (Feb. 9) +canoed over the 300 yards or so of the Pápá lagoon bounding Ezrimenu +village on the landward side. They then struck nearly due north; and, +after walking three-quarters of an hour, perhaps two miles and a half, +over a good open path, easily convertible into a cart-road, they reached +the Inyoko Concession. It measures 2,400 yards square, beginning at the +central shaft, on the northern side of the hill which gives it a name; and +thus it lies only about eight miles westward of the Ancobra River. The +ground has not been much worked of late years, but formerly Kwáko Akka, +the tyrant of Apollonia, 'rich in blood and ore,' who was deposed by the +British Colonial Government about 1850, and was imprisoned in Cape Coast +Castle, is said to have obtained from it much of his wealth. + +They found the strike of the hill approximately north 22ş east (true); +[Footnote: In laying down limits great attention must be paid to +variation. As a rule 19ş 45' west has been assumed from the Admiralty +charts--good news for the London attorney. At Tumento this figure rises to +20ş; upon the coast it must be changed to 19ş 15' (W.), and in other +places to 16ş 40'.] the dip appears to be easterly, and the natives have +worked the _Abbruch_ or _débris_ which have fallen from the reef-crest. +This wall may be a continuation of the Akankon formation; both are rich in +a highly crystalline quartz of livid blue, apparently the best colour +throughout the Gold Region. The surface-ground, of yellowish marl with +quartz-pebbles, is evidently auriferous, and below it lies a harder red +earth rusty with iron. From the southern boundary of the Inyoko +concession, and the village of that name, runs a strong outcrop of a +kindly white quartz, which, when occurring in conjunction with the blue, +usually denotes that both are richer than when a single colour is found. +Such at least is Cameron's experience. + +Mr. Walker, who secured this concession also, notes that the native pits +were very shallow and superficial. He was pressed for time, and sunk his +trial-shaft but little more than three fathoms: here free gold was visible +in the blue quartz, which yielded upwards of one ounce per ton. + +My companion found the shaft still open, and observed that the valley +contained many holes and washing-pits. One was pointed out to him by Mr. +Grant as having yielded twenty ounces of dust in one day: these reports +recall the glories of California and Australia in the olden time. The +little Etubu water, which runs 200 yards from the shaft, would easily form +a reservoir, supplying the means of washing throughout the year. Here, +then, are vast facilities for hydraulic work; millions of cubic feet can +be strained of thin gold at a minimum expenditure. There will be less +'dead work,' and 'getting' would be immediate. Thus, too, as in +California, the land will be prepared for habitation and agriculture, and +the conditions of climate will presently be changed for the better. + +Early in the forenoon (Jan. 9) we hammocked to the Kikam village, and were +much disappointed. King Blay, too lame to leave his home, had sent his +interpreter to show us the Yirima or 'Choke-full' reef; and the man, +doubtless influenced by some intrigue, gave us wrong information. Moreover +the _safahin_ Etié, before mentioned, had gone, they said, to his lands at +Prince's: he was probably lurking in some adjacent hut. We breakfasted in +his house, but all the doors were bolted and locked, and his people would +hardly serve us with drinking water. We attempted in vain to buy the +_boma_, or fetish-drum, a venerable piece of furniture hung round with +human crania, of which only the roofs remained. King Blay, however, +eventually sent us home a _boma_, and it was duly exhibited in town. Kikam +was the only place in Apollonia where we met with churlish treatment; no +hospitality, however, could be expected when the strangers were supposed +to be mixed up in a native quarrel. + +Unwilling to linger any longer in the uninviting and uninteresting spot, +we ordered our hammocks, set out at noon, and, following the line over +which we had travelled, reached Axim at 5 P.M. + +We had no other reason to complain of our week's trip except its +inordinate expense. Apparently one must be the owner of a rich gold-mine +to live in and travel on the Gold Coast. We had already in a fortnight got +through the 50_l_. of silver sent from England; and this, too, without +including the expenses of bed and board. + +We came home with the conviction that the Inyoko property should have been +the second proposed for exploitation, coming immediately after the Apatim. +Our reasons were the peculiar facilities of reaching it and the certainty +that, when work here begins, it will greatly facilitate communication with +'Izrah.' But progress is slow upon the Gold Coast, and our wishes may +still be realised. + +I cannot better conclude this chapter than with an extract from Captain +Brackenbury's 'Narrative of the Ashanti War.' [Footnote: Blackwoods, +Edinburgh and London, 1874. Vol. ii. pp. 351, 352.] It will show how well +that experienced and intelligent officer foresaw in 1873 the future of the +Gold Coast. + +'Are there no means of opening this country up to trade, no means of +infusing into it an element superior to that of the Fanti races, of +holding in check the savagery of the inland tribes, and preventing the +whole coast again becoming abandoned to fetishism and human sacrifices? To +the writer's mind there is but one method, and that one by an appeal to +man's most ignoble passion--the lust of gold. This country is not without +reason called the Gold Coast. Gold is there in profusion, and to be had +for the seeking. We have ourselves seen the women washing the sand at Cape +Coast and finding gold. When Captain Thompson visited the Wassaw (Wásá) +country, he found the roads impassable at night by reason of the gold-pits +upon them. Captain Butler describes western Akim as a country teeming with +gold. Captain Glover has said that in eastern Akim gold is plentiful as +potatoes in Ireland, and the paths were honeycombed with gold-pits. Dawson +has distinctly stated his opinion that the Fanti gold-mines are far more +valuable than those of Ashanti--that the only known Ashanti gold-mine of +great value is that of Manoso; whereas the Wassaw and the Nquamfossoo +mines, as well as the Akim mines, have rock-gold (nuggets) in profusion. +He says that the Ashantis get their gold from the Fantis in exchange for +slaves, whom they buy for two or three loads of coller- (kola-) nuts, +worth less than half an ounce of gold, and sell to the Fantis for as much +as two and a quarter ounces of gold. Let our Government prospect these +mines; let Acts be passed similar to those by which vast railway companies +are empowered to compel persons to sell their land at a fair price; let +our Government, by means of Houssa troops, guarantee protection to +companies formed to work the mines, and let the payment to the kings in +whose country they are be by royalties upon the gold obtained. The kings +would offer the utmost resistance to their mines being thus taken and +worked; but they have never worked them properly themselves, and they will +never work them properly; and it would be no injustice to allow others to +do so. If the true value of these services were ascertained by Government +mining engineers, if the Government would guarantee protection to those +engaged in working them, companies would soon be formed to reap the rich +harvest to be found upon the coast. Chinese coolies would be imported, who +would breed in with the natives and infuse some energy into the Fanti +races. Trade would soon follow, roads be made, and the whole country +opened up. The engagement of our Government should be a limited one, for +if once the gold-mines were at work there would be no further fear that +the country would ever fell back into the hands of the Ashantis.' + +The counsel is good, but we have done better. Private companies have +undertaken the work, and have succeeded where the Government would fail. +So far from resisting, the 'kings' have been too glad to accept our +offers. And now the course is forwards, without costing the country a +farthing, and with a fair prospect of supplying to it a large proportion +of the precious metal still wanted. + +NOTE.--Since these lines were written the _Yiri_ (full) _ma_ (quite) reef +has been leased by Mr. Grant, who sent home specimens showing, I am told, +14 oz. per ton. The fine property belongs to King Blay, who built a +village upon it and there stationed his brother to prevent 'jumping.' In +the spring of 1862 he wished to keep half the ground for his own use. + + + +CHAPTER XIX. + +TO PRINCE'S RIVER AND BACK. + +On February 15 we proceeded down coast to inspect the mining-lands of +Prince's River valley, east of Axim; and this time it was resolved to +travel by surf-boat, ignoring that lazy rogue the hammock-man. Yet even +here difficulties arose. Mast and sail were to be borrowed, and paddles +were to be hired at the rate of a shilling a day each. They are the life +of the fishing Aximites; yet they have not the energy to make them, and +must buy those made in Elmina. + +The eastern coast, like that of Apollonia, is a succession of points and +bays, of cool-looking emerald jungle and of 'Afric's golden sands' reeking +with unkindly heat. Passing the long black tongue of Prépré, or Inkubun, +and the red projection, Ponta Terceira, we sighted the important Ajámera +village, so called from a tree whose young leaves show a tender +pinkish-red. On the Awazán Boppo Hill, about two miles from the +trial-shaft of his concession, Dr. Ross found a native 'Long Tom.' It was +a hollowed palm-trunk rotten with age, closed at one end and open at the +other, with a slant downwards; two forks supported it over a water-filled +hollow, measuring ten feet each way by three deep. Ajámera lies a little +west of the peninsula, _Africanicč_ Madrektánah, a jutting mass of naked +granite glazed red by sea-water: on either side of the sandy neck, pinned +down, like Pirate's Bay, by cocoa-nuts, there is the safest landing-place. +And now we sight our port, distant some nine miles from Axim. + +In front rises Prince's Hill, clad in undergrowth with a topping tuft of +tall figs. At its eastern base lies the townlet, showing more whitewash +than usual; and, nearer still, the narrow mouth of the fiery little Yenna, +Prince's or St. John's River. The view is backed by the tall and wooded +ridge of Cape Threepoints, the southernmost headland of the Gold Coast, +behind which is Dixcove. It is interesting to us because a syndicate has +been formed, and engineers are being sent out to survey the pathless +'bush' between the sea and Tumento on the Ancobra, whose site was at the +time unknown. Cameron presently discovered that the Tákwá ridge is nearer +Axim than Dixcove is, and that the line would pass within easy distance of +Kinyanko, one of its _raisons d'ętre_. + +This wild plan has been supported by sundry concessionists whose interests +lie behind Dixcove and at Kinyanko. Dixcove of the crocodile-worship has +one of the worst bars on the coast. Canoes and surf-boats must run within +biscuit-throw of the Rock Kum-Brenni [Footnote: In the Oji or +Ashanti-Fanti tongue _bro_ or _bronni_ (the Ga 'blofo') means somebody or +something European. It is derived from _abro_ (_blo_), maize, introduced +by white men; others say that when the first strangers landed upon the +coast, the women, who were grinding, said, 'These men are white as +maize-meal.' 'Abrokirri' (Europe) is, however, explained by the Rev. Mr. +Riis as perhaps a corruption of Puto, Porto, Portugal.] ('White Man's +Death'), and the surf will often shut up the landing-place for four or +five successive days. The place will become important, but not in this +way. The Rev. Mr. Milum, in whose pleasant society I voyaged, showed me +his sketch of the station with an isolated red 'butte,' possibly an island +of old, rising close behind the houses and trending north-south. +Grain-gold was found in it by the native schoolmaster, who dug where he +saw a thin smoke or vapour hovering over the ground: throughout the Coast +this, like the presence of certain ferns, is held a sure sign that the +precious ore is present. Moreover, a small nugget appeared in the swish +being prepared for a house-wall. Thus 'washing' will be easy and +inexpensive, and the Wesleyan mission may secure funds for extending +itself into the non-maritime regions. + +We turned the boat's head shorewards, and, after encountering the normal +three seas, ran her upon the beach near the right jaw of Prince's River. +The actual mouth is between natural piers of sea-blackened trap-rock, and +the gullet behind it could at this season be cleared by an English hunter. +We unloaded and warped our conveyance round the gape till she rode safe in +the inner broad. And now we saw that Prince's is not the river of the +hydrographic chart, but a true lagoon-stream, the remains of a much larger +formation. There has been, here and on other parts of the coast, a little +archipelago whose islets directed the riverine courses; the shallows +between were warped up by mangrove and other swampy vegetation, and the +whole has become, after a fashion, _terra firma_. Each holm had doubtless +a core of rock, whose decay produced a rich soil. Now they are mounds and +ridges of red clay standing up abruptly, and their dense growths of dark +yew-like trees contrast with the yellowish produce of the adjacent miry +lowlands. + +The chief of Prince's Town, Eshánchi, _alias_ 'Septimulus,' a name showing +a succession of seven sons, not without a suspicion of twins, would have +accompanied us up stream. Guinea-worm, however, forbade, and he sent a +couple of guides, one of whom, Wafápa, _alias_ 'Barnabas,' a stout, active +freedman of the village, proved very useful. + +We resolved to shoot the banks going, and to collect botanical specimens +on return. The land appears poor in mammals, rich in avifauna, and +exceedingly abundant in insect life. Of larger animals there are leopards, +cat o' mountains and civet-cats, wild hog and fine large deer; we bought a +leg weighing 11-1/2 lbs., and it was excellent eating seasoned with 'poor +man's quinine,' _alias_ garlic. Natives and strangers speak of the +jungle-cow, probably the Nyaré antelope (_Bos brachyceros_) of the Gaboon +regions, the _empacasso_ of the Portuguese. Two small black squirrels, +scampering about a white-boled tree, were cunning enough never to give a +shot. We sighted only small monkeys with white beards and ruddy coats. 'He +be too clever for we,' said the Kruboys when the wary mannikins hid in the +bush. I saw nothing of the _kontromfi_, cynocephalus or dog-faced baboon, +concerning whose ferocity this part of Africa is full of stories. Further +north there is a still larger anthropoid, which the natives call a wild +man and Europeans a gorilla. The latter describe its peculiar whoop, heard +in the early night when the sexes call to each other. + +Our results were two species of kingfishers (_alcedo_), the third and +larger kind not showing; a true curlew (_Numenius arquata_), charming +little black swallows (_Wardenia nigrita_), the common English swallow; +a hornbill (_buceros_), all feathers and no flesh; a lean and lanky +diver (_plotus_), some lovely little honeysuckers, a red oriole, a fine +vulture (_Gypohierax angolensis_), and a grand osprey (_hali[oe]tus_), +which even in the agonies of death would not drop his prey. Many other +birds were given over to Mr. Dawson, who worked from dawn till dusk. Mr. +Grant dropped from the trees three snakes, one green and two +slaty-brown. The collection found its way to the British Museum after +the usual extensive plunder, probably at a certain port, where it is +said professional collectors keep customhouse-men in pay. Mr. R. B. +Sharp was kind enough to name the birds, whose shrunken list will be +found at the end of the volume. + +Cameron, observing for his map, was surprised by the windings of the bed; +we seemed ever within hearing of the sea. Where a holm of rock and bush +splits the course its waters swarm with fish, as shown by the weirs and +the baskets, large and small; some of its cat-fish (_siluri_) weigh 10 +lbs. Every shoal bred oysters in profusion, young mangroves sprouted from +the submerged mollusk-beds, and the 'forests of the sea' were peopled with +land-crabs. + +At first the vegetation of the banks was almost wholly of rhizophores, +white and red; the wood of the latter burns like coal, and the bark is +admirable for tanning. In places their long suckers, growing downwards to +the stream, resembled a cordwainer's walk set on end. A bush of +yellow-flowered hibiscus clothes the banks that are less level; and, +higher still, grows a tall and beautiful mimosa with feathery web and +pendent pods of brightest green and yellow. Then came the brabs and palms, +fan-, cocoa-, oil-, and bamboo-, with their trunks turned to nurseries of +epiphytes and air-plants. The parasites are clematis and a host with hard +botanical names. + +Towards evening, as the stream narrowed, the spectacle was imposing. The +avenues and trees stood up like walls, but living walls; and in places +their billowy bulges seemed about to burst upon us like Cape-rollers. +Every contrast was there of light and dark, short and tall, thick and +thin; of age and death with lusty youth clinging around it; of the cocoa's +drooping frond and the aspiring arm of bombax, the silk-cotton-tree, which +rains brown gossamer when the wind blows; of the sloth-tree with its +topping tuft, and the tangled mantle of the calamus or rattan, a palm like +a bamboo-cane. The bristly pod of the dolichos (_pruriens_) hangs by the +side of the leguminosć, from whose flattened, chestnut-coloured seeds +snuff-boxes are made further east. It was also a _floresta florida_, whose +giants are decked with the tender little blossoms of the shrub, and where +the bright bracts and yellow greens of this year's growth light up the +sombre verdure of an older date. The type of this growth is the red +camwood-tree, with its white flower of the sweetest savour. Imagine an +English elm studded with pinks or daisies, gardenias or hyacinths. There +is nothing more picturesque than the shiftings and changes of aspect upon +these African streams, which at first seem so monotonous. After dawn the +smoking water, feeling tepid to the hand and warmer than the atmosphere, +veils the lower levels and makes the forest look as if based on air. Noon +brings out every variety of distance with startling distinctness, and +night, especially moonlit night, blurs with its mists long tracts of +forest, rains silver over the ridges, and leaves the hollows in the +blackest shade. Seen from above, the sea of trees looks like green water +raised to waves by the wind, and the rustling in the breeze mimics the +sound of distant surf. + +A catamaran of four cork-trees, a cranky canoe, the landing-place of a +bush-road, a banana-plantation, and a dwarf clearing, where sat a family +boiling down palm-nuts for oil, proved that here and there the lowland did +not lack lowlanders. The people stared at us without surprise, although +this was only the fourth time they had seen a surf-boat. The river-bed, +grid-ironed with rocky reefs, showed us twenty-two turns in a few miles; +some were horseshoe-bends, sweeping clean round to the south, and one +described a curve of 170ş. After slow and interrupted paddling for an hour +and a half, at 6 P.M., when night neared, we halted at the village of +Esubeyah, or 'Water-made;' [Footnote: The radical of water is 'su,' +curiously corresponding with Turkish and with that oldest of the Turkish +tongues, Chinese.] and my companion made sure of his distances by a +latitudinal observation of Canopus. + +Next morning we had 'English tea' for the first and last time in West +Africa; usually we preferred the Russian form, drunk in a tumbler with a +slice of lime that sinks or of lemon that floats. Mr. Gillett had given us +a bottle of 'Romanshorn' from the Swiss farm, an admirable preparation +which also yields fresh butter. The price is high, 1_s_. 6_d_. a bottle, +or, for the case of forty-eight imperial pints, 72_s_.; this, however, is +the Coast, not the cost figure. For invalids, who are nauseated by the +sickly, over-sugared stuff popularly called 'tin-juice,' and who feel life +put in them by rum and milk, it is an invaluable comfort. + +We left Esubeyah in the 'lizard's sun' at 7 A.M., and found the river +changed for the worse. The freshets had uptorn from the banks the tallest +trees, which in places formed a timber-floor; and the surf-boat gallantly +charged, till she leaked, the huge trunks, over which she had often to be +lifted. Nothing would be easier than to clear away these obstacles; a few +pounds of gun-cotton would remove snags and sawyers, and dredging by boats +would do the rest. Then Prince's River would become an excellent highway. + +An hour and a half's slow paddling placed us at the landing-place of Bekaí +(a village in general), the usual hole in the bush. Here navigation ends +in the dry season. We walked to and through the mean little settlement, +and established ourselves at Anima-kru, [Footnote: The English 'croom' is +a corruption of _kru-mu_ or _krum_, 'in the village.' Properly speaking +'kru' and 'man' are the town, or common centre of many _akura_ +(plantation-hamlets), in which the owners keep their families and +_familić_.] a mile from the landing-place on the Yenna, or Prince's +River. It faces a splendidly wooded mound upon the right or opposite bank. +Mrá Kwámi, the headman, received us hospitably, cleared a house, and +offered us the usual palm-wine and snuff: the powder, composed of tobacco, +ginger, and cloves, is boxed in a round wild fruit. + +The village contained only two men; the rest were drinking, at Prince's +town, the proceeds of a puncheon of palm-oil. The plantations still showed +fruits and flowers probably left by the Portuguese--wild oranges, mangoes, +limes, pine-apples, and the 'four o'clock,' a kind of 'marvel of Peru,' +supposed to open at that hour. The houses, _crépi_ or parget below and +bamboo above, are mere band-boxes raised from the ground; the smaller +perfectly imitated poultry-crates. All appeared unusually neat and clean, +with ornamental sheets of clam-shells trodden into the earth before the +thresholds. 'Fetish' was abundant, and so was that worst of all plagues +the sand-fly. + +After breakfasting we set out north over a sandy level, clearly reclaimed +from the sea, and in a few minutes struck the true coast. Here begins the +St. John mining-ground, conceded for prospecting to Messieurs Gillett and +Selby. A fair path runs up hillocks of red-yellow clay, metalled with +rounded quartz and ironstone-gravel, roped with roots and barred with +trees; their greatest elevation may have been 120 feet. Two parallel +ridges, trending north-north-east, are bisected by torrents pouring +westward to the river: now dry, they have rolled down huge boulders in +their frequent floods. These 'hard-heads,' which try the hammer, show a +revetment of cellular iron upon a solid core of greenstone and bluish +trap. Some fragments not a little resembled the clay-slates of the +Brazilian gold-mines. Such was the concession which we named Săo Joăo do +Principe. + +Presently the chief, Mrá Kwámi, announced to us that we had reached the +northern boundary-line of the estate. He now would have left us, as it is +not customary, when gold is in question, for one head-man to enter +another's country. We succeeded, however, in persuading him to show us the +other side of the river. A short walk up and down hill led to the ford of +the 'Yenna,' the native name, probably a corruption of 'St. John.' It lies +a little above the dyke where the stream breaks into a dwarf fall, and +below the crossing where a ferry formerly plied. We now found a regular +river, no longer a lagoon-stream; the clear water, most unlike the +matter-suspending and bitumen-coloured fluid of the lower bed, was +beautified by lilies with long leaves and broad flowers of virgin white. + +We rode the Kruboys pick-a-back across the broken reef through which the +stream bursts and brawls, and walked a few paces up the left bank to the +Kumasi [Footnote: The Ashantis translate the word 'under the Kum-tree;' +the Fantis make it mean 'slay all.'] village. It had been lately deserted; +but we found there Kwáko Benta, headman of Ajámera, who had spent a week +in forcing the deserters to rejoin the corps. He was the reverse of +cordial, probably wishing at once to prove importance and to give our +guide the cold shoulder: we persuaded him, however, to show us the Muku +concession, granted to Messieurs Lintott and Spink. + +The ground which fronts the reef-ford reflects that of the left bank, and +is pitted with diggings, large and small. In a dry torrent-bed, running +north-south, was an oblong shaft, a native copy of European work, four +feet by six, and timbered in the usual negro way. Its further bank was a +high and steep slope of yellow clay with a midway step, containing another +and a similar shaft: to the north and west were many other signs of +exploitation. The rich-looking quartz of the lode is white and sugary, +with black streaks and veins: its strike is nearly meridional, between +north 20ş and 25ş east, and the dip 40ş-45ş east. A glance shows that +_Fluthwerk_ and 'hydraulicking' would easily wash down the whole alluvial +and auriferous formation to the floor of grey granite which has supplied +the huge 'cankey-stones' [Footnote: This proto-historic implement, also +called a 'saddle-quern,' is here made out of a thick slab of granite +slightly concave and artificially roughened. The muller, or mealing-stone, +is a large, heavy, and oval rolling-pin used with the normal rocking and +grinding motion. These rollers are also used for crushing ore, and +correspond with the stone _polissoirs_ of ancient date.] littering the +village. Cameron, who had before visited the site, and had remarked how +vigorously the placer-gravels had been attacked by the natives, would +'hydraulick' by means of the St. John's River. This might also be done by +damming up and tapping the adjacent bottom. And, if routine work be +wanted, it would cost little to construct upon the topmost crest a large +reservoir with channels to conduct the rains, and thus secure a fair fall +for the water. + +We slept once more at Anima-kru; and here Cameron made sure of his +position by Jupiter and Procyon, and by his valuable watch-chronometer, +the gift of his brother-officers: it worked peculiarly well. The St. +John's mine lies in north lat. 4ş 49' 44", and in west long. (G.) 2ş 6' +44". While the owners would place it seven miles from the sea, it is +distant only 2.2 from 'old Fort Brandenburg.' Early next morning we packed +and prepared for return, the chief Mrá Kwámi insisting upon escorting us. +And now the difference of travel in Africa and England struck me forcibly. +Fancy a band of negro explorers marching uninvited through the Squire's +manor, strewing his lawn and tennis-ground with all manner of rubbish; +housing their belongings in his dining- and drawing- and best bed-rooms, +which are at once vacated by his wife and family; turning his cook out of +his or her kitchen; calling for the keys of his dairy and poultry-yard, +hot-houses, and cellar; and rummaging the whole mansion for curios and +heirlooms interesting to the negro anthropologist. Fancy also their +bidding him to be ready next morning for sporting and collecting purposes, +with all his pet servants, his steward and his head-gardener, his +stud-groom and his gamekeeper; and allowing, by way of condescension, Mr. +Squire to carry their spears, bows, and arrows; bitterly deriding his +weapons the while, as they proceed to whip his trout-stream, to pluck his +pet plants, to shoot his pheasants, and to kill specimens of his rarest +birds for exhibition in Africa. Fancy their enquiring curiously about his +superstitions, sitting in his pew, asking for bits of his East window, and +criticising his 'fetish' in general, ending with patting him upon the back +and calling him a 'jolly old cock.' Finally, fancy the Squire greatly +enjoying such treatment, and feeling bitterly hurt unless handled after +this fashion. Paddling down stream, we collected for Kew. But the +hopelessness of the task weighs upon the spirits: a square mile of such +flora would take a week. There is a prodigious variety of vegetation, and +the quantity of edible berries, 'fowl's lard,' 'Ashanti-papaw,' and the +Guinea-peach (_Sarcophalus esculentus_) would gladden the heart of a +gorilla. Every larger palm-trunk was a fernery; every dead bole was an +orchidry; and huge fungi, two feet broad, fed upon the remains of their +victims. Climbers, chiefly papilionaceous, and llianas, bigger than the +biggest boa-constrictor, coiled and writhed round the great gloomy trees +which rained their darkness below. In the sunlight were pretty jasmines +(_J. grande_), crotons and lantanas, with marantas, whose broad green +leafage was lined with pink and purple. Deep in shadow lay black miry +sloughs of sickening odour, near which the bed of Father Thames at low +water would be scented with rose-water; and the caverns, formed by the +arching roots of the muddy mangrove, looked haunts fit for crocodile and +behemoth and all manner of unclean, deadly beasts. And there are little +miseries for African collectors. 'Wait-a-bit' thorns tear clothes and +skin. Tree-snakes turn the Kru-boys not pale but the colour of boiled +liver; their 'bowels fail them,' as the natives say. Each tree has its +ant, big or small, black or red; and all sting more or less. We see their +armies marching up the trunks, and the brush of a bough brings down a +little shower. Monstrous mangrove-flies and small brown-coloured 'huri,' +most spiteful biters, and wasps here and there, assail the canoe; and we +are happy if we escape a swarm of the wild bees: their curious, +treacle-like honey is enjoyed by the people. + +We landed in due time at 'Prinsi,' whose civilised chief had laid out a +clean path, lined with umbrella-figs backed by a bush of self-sown guavas. +A good upper-storied house was found for us, with standing bedsteads, +sofa, table, and chairs. It belonged to one of the _penins_, or elders. +The chapel, with its three front and five lateral windows, is the best we +have yet seen. The schoolmaster, Mr. Sego, lives in a house hard by; and +the adjacent school, a wattled cottage, echoes to the voices of some +thirty to forty scholars. The town looks prosperous. Building is easy; +oysters and other shells supply lime; the clay dug to the north makes good +adobes, and stone is easily quarried from the old fort. + +We found Prince's in a state of unusual jollity, drinking the proceeds of +their three puncheons, dancing and playing what Sá Leone calls +'warry.' [Footnote: A game with counters and holes in the ground or a board +hollowed with cups. The same, called _báo_, or tables, is found in East +Africa (Zanzibar) and Cameron traced it extending clear across the Dark +Continent.] The bell and the psalm blended curiously with the song and the +palm-clapping that announces negro terpsichore. Of course 'fetish' was +present, in the shape of a woman peculiarly ornamented. Her very black +face was dazzlingly chalked, lines by threes running from hair-roots to +nose-bridge and meeting others drawn across the temples; the orbits of the +eyes were whitened, and thence triple streaks stretched up the nose and +across the cheeks. Hung to the extensive necklace of beads and other +matters were tassels of dry white fibre; her forearms carried yellow +bunches of similar material, and she held a broom of blackened bamboo and +the metal bell familiar to Unyamwezi. Whilst the juniors danced and sang +the elders drank and gambled. + +After a cool and comfortable night we visited the ruins which Bosman calls +Casteel Groot Frederiksburg tot Pocquesoe (Prince's). Our Hydrographic +Chart has 'old fort Brandenburg,' which is at Cape Threepoints. Others +declare that it was the only good establishment owned by the Elector; and +the best authority, Lieut. Jeekel, terms it G Friedrichsburg (Hollandia). +I may note that 'Prinsi 'Ollandia' is still the native name. These +buildings interest us greatly, because in the coming days of immigration +they will serve for hospitals, stores, and barracoons. Ascending a few +feet of bushy hill, called in books 'Mamfra,' and once evidently an +island, we came upon the eastern flank, three substantial bastions and a +cavalier, with masonry knitted by creepers. We then wound round by the +southern or sea side, and, turning the angle, made the eastern flank. The +gateway, stockade, and belfry shown in Bosman ('Eerste Brief,' 1737) have +disappeared; so also has the slave-court, but the double doorway remains. +The spacious centre, planted with bananas almost wild, would make a grand +garden; the walls are built to stand for ages; and, although the floors of +the upper stories have been torn down, there would be no difficulty in +restoring them. As steps and stairs are absent, it was not possible to +reach the battlements. These are luxuriant with vegetation, of which I +should preserve a portion for shade and coolth. A fine arched cistern now +affords a shelter to bats; and a building which appears to be the chapel +remains on the northern side. Old iron guns still cumber the embrasures +and the ground. + +Issuing by the northern face, which has been torn down for ashlar, we set +up the photographic stand and took the north-western angle. Here an +enormous fig draws its life from the death of the wall. The morning air in +the shade was delicious, a great contrast with the heavy dampness of Axim; +and the view of the St. John's River west and of Cape Threepoints east was +charming. With usual neglect the photographer had sent out his machine and +dry plates without any means of developing them; we therefore worked +blindly and could not see results. + +When embarking in Prince's Bay, where the surf was perfectly safe, we were +informed a little too late of a valuable gold-mine called Kokobené. It +lies close behind the village Akitáki, which we had seen during our +morning's walk along the beach leading to Cape Threepoints. The chief, +Eshánchi, promised to forward specimens of the reefs, and did not forget +to keep his promise. The quartz-specimens which were brought to us at +Akankon by Wafápa, or Barnabas, promised excellently, and I authorised Mr. +Grant to buy an exploring right of the Kokobené-Akitáki diggings. Their +position as well as their quality will render them valuable: they will +prove a second Apatim. + +We returned to Axim on February 19, after a short but very satisfactory +trip which added much to our knowledge of the coast and its ways. It had +also the merit of being economical; we took matters in hand, and +consequently our four days cost us only 2_l_. 8_s_. + +I have spoken much about 'hydraulicking' in this chapter, and I shall now +borrow a few details concerning the operation from Sir William Logan, who, +in his 'Geological Survey of Canada,' quotes Mr. William P. Blake. +Speaking of California, the learned author writes, 'In this method the +force of a jet of water with great pressure is made available both for +excavating and washing the auriferous earth. The water, issuing in a +continuous stream with great force from a large hose-pipe like that of a +fire-engine, is directed against the base of a bank of earth and gravel, +and tears it away. The bank is rapidly undermined, the gravel is loosened, +violently rolled together, and cleansed from any adhering particles of +gold, while the fine clay and the sand are carried off by the water. In +this manner hundreds of tons of earth and gravel may be removed, and all +the gold which they contain liberated and secured with greater ease and +expedition than ten tons could be excavated and washed in the old way. All +the earth and gravel of a deposit is moved, washed, and carried off +through long sluices by the water, leaving the gold behind. Square acres +of earth on the hill-sides may thus be swept away into the hollows without +the aid of a pick or a shovel in excavation. Water performs all the +labour, moving and washing the earth in one operation, while in excavating +by hand the two processes are of necessity entirely distinct. The value of +this method and the yield of gold as compared with the older one can +hardly be estimated. + +'The water acts constantly with uniform effect, and can be brought to bear +upon almost any point, where it would be difficult for men to work. It is +especially effective in a region covered by trees, where the tangled roots +would greatly retard the labour of workmen. In such places the stream of +water washes out the earth from below, and tree after tree falls before +the current, any gold which may have adhered to the roots being washed +away. With a pressure of sixty feet and a pipe of from one and a half to +two inches' aperture, over 1,000 bushels of earth can be washed out from a +bank in a day. + +'Earth which contains only one-twenty-fifth part of a grain of gold, equal +to one-fifth of a cent in value to the bushel, may be profitably washed by +this method; and any earth or gravel which will pay the expense of washing +in the old way gives enormous profits by the new process. To wash +successfully in this way requires a plentiful supply of water, at an +elevation of from fifty to ninety feet above the bed-rock, [Footnote: This +is by no means necessary. The jet can be thrown from below like the +fireman's hose playing upon a burning house. I shall return to this highly +important subject.] and a rapid slope or descent from the base of the bank +of earth to be washed, so that the waste water will run off through the +sluices, bearing with it gravel, sand, and suspended clay. + + * * * * * + +'In the case of a deposit in North Carolina, where ten men were required +for thirty-five days to dig the earth with pick and shovel and wash it in +sluices, two men with a single jet of water could accomplish the same work +in a week. The great economy of this method is manifest from the fact that +many old deposits in the river-beds, the gravel of which had been already +washed by hand, have again been washed with profit by the hydraulic +method. + +'In California the whole art of working the diluvial gold-deposits was +revolutionised by this new method. The auriferous earth lying on hills and +at some distance above the level of the watercourses would in the ordinary +methods be excavated by hand and brought to the water, but by the present +system the water is brought by aqueducts to the gold-deposits, and whole +square miles which were before inaccessible have yielded up their precious +metal. It sometimes happens from the irregular distribution of the gold in +the diluvium in California that the upper portions of a deposit do not +contain gold enough to be washed by the ordinary methods, and would thus +have to be removed at a considerable expense in order to reach the richer +portion below. By the hydraulic method, however, the cost of cutting away +and excavating is so trifling that there is scarcely any bank of earth +which will not pay the expense of washing down in order to reach the rich +deposits of gold beneath.' + +To conclude. Our collection of plants was sent to the Herbarium, Kew; and, +as the Appendix (II. Part II.) shows, was kindly catalogued by the learned +Professor D. Oliver. + + + +CHAPTER XX. + +FROM AXIM TO INGOTRO AND AKANKON. + +After a long palaver with the three claimants to the Akankon +mining-ground, Kofi Blaychi (Little Blay), Kwáko Jum, and Safahin Sensensé +(the lessor), we left Axim once more (February 24) to inspect the head of +the Ancobra river. At the sleeping-place, Kumprasi, we were visited by Mr. +Cascaden, District-commissioner for Tákwá, a fine-looking man of fifteen +stone, pulled down to twelve by dysentery. He was speedily followed to +England by his _remplaçant_, Dr. Duke. + +Next morning, when the thick white fog, which made the smoking river +resemble Father Rhine in autumn, had been licked up by fiery rays, we +embarked, together with Chief Apó, of Asánta, the honest old owner of the +'Ingotro concession.' Our conveyance was the _Effuenta_, a steam-launch +attached to the mine of that name, bought second-hand, and a fine specimen +of what launches ought _not_ to be. Built by Messieurs Dickenson, of +Birkenhead, she is much too small (36 feet by 8) for a river which, even +in the depth of the dries, averages two fathoms, and rarely runs less than +ten feet. The engines are over far from the boiler, and the long raking +stern swells out into a big belly worthy of a manatee or a Dutch hoy. Her +boiler had been replaced with the usual inconsequence. She had been +repaired by an 'intelligent artisan,' Mr. Emery; but, as he was allowed no +tools and no time, he contented himself with reporting her in good working +order. Consequently after every half-hour we had to unscrew the +safety-valve, let off steam, and fill the boiler with a funnel and a tin +pot. Pleasant three hours under a thin board-awning, in a broiling sun, +off a poisonous mangrove-swamp! Presently she had to be started by the +surf-boat lashed to one side, and a large canoe to the other. Finally, +after a last breakdown, we saw steam-launch _Effuenta_ lying high and dry +upon the beach at Sánmá. + +We had nothing to complain of the engineer, Mr. William George, a Sá +Leonite, and of the helmsman, Kwámina Ekum, a Gold Coast man. Both did +their best with the heavily laden trio of boats. Cameron established +himself--compass, log, lead, and dredge--in the steamer stern. His +admirable geographical labours in 'Crossing Africa' are, after a few years +of a swift-moving age, lapsing Lethe-wards; and + + To _have_ done is to hang + Quite out of fashion, like a rusty nail + In monumental mockery. + +Now he has another opportunity of doing valuable service, none of these +positions having been established by observations, and of showing +travellers how topography should be worked. He has before him for +correction the Hydrographic chart, which pretends to nothing within the +Coast, and the 'River Ankobra and Tarquah(!) Gold Mines,' printed in 1878 +by Captain Louis Wyatt, then District-commissioner for Axim. This first +attempt at a regular survey is meritorious for an amateur; but of course +it cannot compare with the produce of a scientific and experienced naval +surveyor. We had Lieut. Jeekel, before alluded to, but his scale, +1:250,000, is too small for details. I did not see, till long after our +return from this excursion, the then unfinished map by M. Paulus Dahse, a +veteran West-Coaster, who has spent years in travelling through the +interior. My fellow-voyager also was the first to show me the various +cartes printed and published by the late M. Bonnat. [Footnote: _Carte des +Concessions de 'The African Gold Coast Company_,' par M. J. Bonnat. Paris, +August 1879. Beginning south at Tumento, it does not show the southern +fork of the Bonsá or Abonsá River, which falls into the Ancobra's left +bank; and it ends a little north of Asseman, the cemetery of the 'kings.' +M. Bonnat had already printed in 1877 a _Chart of the River Ankobra_, +extending north as far as the 'Gold Mines of Aodoua.'] + +The Ancobra is an enlarged copy of the Yenna or Prince's River. There are +the same swampy borders and 'impenetrable forests,' as Captain Wyatt +entitles them; while the mangrove never quite disappears from this true +lagoon-stream. The monotonous fringe of rhizophores is broken, about two +miles from the mouth, by bamboo-palms and hibiscus-beds, then by the +bombax, the rubber-vine, the locust-tree (_inga_), and the +banana-plantation. The mounds and hillocks on either side, beginning with +the Akromasi and Kabudwe mounds, near the mouth, are evidently parts of an +ancient archipelago built by the mangrove and silted up to mainland. The +long and curious reaches are shown in my companion's map, and I shall +notice only those details which claim something of general interest. + +After about eight miles' steaming up a huge loop to the west, and a bend +easterly, we passed the Kwábina Bosom, or Fetish-Rocks, two wall-like +blocks, one mangrove-grown and the other comparatively bare. Contrary to +native usage, we chose the fair way between the latter and the left bank, +for which innovation, said our escort, we shall surely suffer. + +Beyond the Fetish-Rocks the right bank shows a cleared mound ready for +immediate planting: this concession once belonged to Dr. Ross, of Axim. +Opposite it the mining-ground has been leased for prospecting by Messieurs +Gillett and Selby. The notable feature of the river is now the +prawn-basket, a long cone closed at the blunt apex: the Ancobra is a +'Camarones,' supplying a first-rate article for curries. This is the work +of the uninteresting little villages, scatters of mere crates built in +holes worn in the bush; all disappear during the floods, and are rebuilt +in the dry season for growing rice and tapping palm-trees. Besides a few +humans they contain nothing save lean dogs and etiolated poultry; cattle, +sheep, and even pigs are wholly unknown. + +In the afternoon we pushed through a wild thunderstorm of furious tropical +rain, which pitted the river-face like musket-balls. It arose in the +south; but throughout the Ancobra valley wet weather apparently comes from +all directions. Chief Apó gravely ascribed it to our taking the wrong side +of the Fetish-Rocks. I have heard, even in civilised lands, sillier +post-hoc-ergň-propter-hocs. + +There were two landing-places for the large Ingotro concession, both on +the right bank. The lower leads, they say, over dry land, but the way is +long and hilly. That up stream is peculiarly foul, and to us it was made +fouler by the pelting shower. At low water, in the dry season, the little +Nánwá creek, subtending the higher ground on the north, becomes too +shallow for the smallest dug-out; and we had to wade or to be carried over +an expanse of fetid and poisonous mangrove-mud festering in the sun, and +promising a luxuriant growth of ague and fever. The first rise of sandy +yellow loam showed the normal Gold Coast metalling of iron-stone and +quartz-gravel, thinly spread with water-rounded pebbles. Then the path, +very badly laid out, merged into a second foul morass, whose depths were +crossed by the rudest of bridges, single and double trunks of felled or +fallen trees. Nothing easier than to corduroy this _mauvais pas_. + +A second rise showed a fine reef of white and blue quartz, which runs +right through the settlement to the banks of the Nánwá stream. A quarter +of an hour's walk from the landing-place placed us in the Nánwá village, +now popularly known as Walker-Kru. It consists of a few mean little +hovels, the usual cage-work, huddled together in most unpicturesque +confusion. Prick-eared curs, ducks, and fowls compose the bestial +habitants, to which must be added the regiments of rats (and ne'er a cat) +which infest all these places. There were no mosquitoes, but the sand-fly +bit viciously on mornings and evenings between the dark and sunlit hours, +confining one to the dim cage and putting a veto upon the pleasant lounge +or seat in the cool open. We found lodgings in the guest-hut of the +headman, Kwáko Juma, like most of his brethren, a civil man and a greedy. +But the Krumen, boatmen and carriers, were also lodged in the little +settlement, and these people always make night hideous with their songs +and squabbles, their howling voices, and hyćna-like bursts of laughter. +It is very difficult to 'love one's neighbour as oneself' when he appears +in this form under these circumstances. + +By times next morning we woke too soon the villagers, who enjoy long talks +by night and deep slumbers in early day. They appear much inclined to +slumber again. But both Apó of Asánta and Juma of Nánwá were exceedingly +anxious to know when mining-works would begin, and, that failing, to +secure as much 'dash' as possible. + +The Ingotro concession, the largest we have yet seen, measures 3,000 +fathoms square, the measurements being taken from the central shaft. +Assuming every thousand fathoms roughly to represent a geographical mile, +the area would be of nine square miles. This will evidently admit of being +divided and sub-divided into half a dozen or more estates. As yet little +of its wealth has been explored, chiefly owing to the dense growth of +forest. As Mr. Walker remarks, 'Although timber is a great desideratum on +a mining-estate, the thick woods have the disadvantage of concealing many +rich deposits of gold, and I have very little doubt that the diminution of +the population, and the consequent overgrowth of the bush or jungle, has +much to do with the great falling off in the production and export of gold +from this region.' + +The emancipation of slaves and 'pawns' would have in Africa no other +effect. Free men will not work, and 'bush,' unless kept down, will grow +with terrible ferocity. + +When Indian file was duly formed, we descended the Nánwá hillock, which +takes its name from the stream. Here the little rivulet, deeply encased, +bore a fine growth of snowy water-lilies. It had been newly bridged with +corduroy. The next passage boasted tree-trunks, and after that all was +leaping. The Nánwá must rise near the trial-shaft, which we are about to +visit, and it snakes through the property in all directions with a general +rhumb from west-north-west to east-south-east. At this season there is +little or no flow, and the bed is mostly a string of detached pools, where +gold has been washed and will be washed again. Thus the facilities for +'hydraulicking' are superior, and the number of shallow native pits at +once suggests the properest process. + +We then struck across the heavily timbered country, which is the wildest +state of 'bushiness.' A few paces led to 'King's Croom,' a deserted +mining-village in a dwarf clearing rapidly overgrowing with the Brazilian +_Catinga_. Hereabouts we saw nothing save 'hungry quartz.' Then we struck +across three several ridges, whose slopes were notably easier on the +eastern, and more abrupt on the western side. The people had sunk several +pits in places likely to yield 'kindly quartz,' and they had made no +mistakes as to the overlay of the lode, its foot-wall or its hanging-wall. + +Cameron presently made an offset to the north, and, cutting his road, +walked ten minutes up the tail of Tuáko Hill, at whose southern base lies +the Nánwá bed. Here, guided by Mr. Grant, who knew the place well, he +found a native shaft thirty feet deep and a lode of disintegrated quartz +in red or yellow ferruginous clay, the surface looking as rich as the +stone it overlies. + +A few paces further and a third drop led us again to the swampy valley of +the Nánwá, here flowing south. It is bounded by two rises, tree-grown from +foot to head. That on the left bank is the Tuáko, the husband, along whose +skirt we have been walking; the other, on the opposite side, is Jama, the +wife. From their conjugal visits the gold is born. Some attempts had been +made to blast a rock in the skirt of Jama's garment; but all had notably +failed. The reeking, unwholesome bottom showed extensive traces of digging +and washing. + +Following the water, we came to the second little mining-village, also +deserted. The name 'Ingotro' means a broad-leaved liliaceous plant, the +_wura-haban_ (water-leaf) of the Fantis, used for thatching when +palm-fronds are not found. From this place an old bush-path once led +directly to the lands we call 'Izrah,' but it has long been closed by +native squabbles. A few yards further placed us in an exceedingly rich +bottom, honeycombed by native workers. Hard by it appeared the central +shaft, lying between two hills, the Ingotro-buká and the Nánwá-buká, which +define the course of the rivulet. The distance from Nánwá village may have +been three miles, but we had spent more than three hours in making +collections. + +Amongst the insects was the silk-spider, a large arachnid of +sulphur-yellow tint, with three black transverse bars. It weaves no web, +but spins a thread of the strongest texture and the richest golden hue. I +had sent from Fernando Po several pounds of this fine silk, intending to +experiment upon it in a veil or lace shawl; and afterwards I learned that +the Empress Eugénie had a dress made of it, which cost a fabulous number +of francs. Bacon and other old writers talk of 'spider's silk' like +gathering moonbeams. [Footnote: The _Ananse_ or _Agya ananse_ (father +spider), as the Oji-speaking peoples call the insect, is with them either +a creator of man (corresponding so far with the scarabeus in the Nile +valley) or a representative of the evil principle. Bosman (Letter xvii.), +describing a 'great hideous hairy species,' says, 'The negroes call this +spider _ananse_, and believe that the first men were made by that +creature; and, notwithstanding some of them by conversation with the +Europeans are better informed, there are yet a great number that remain of +that opinion, out of which folly they are not to be reasoned.' The people +have a number of fables called _Anansesem_, such as _Spider and Spiderson +and the Three Ghosts_; in these spider-stories the insect, like the fox +with us, is the most intelligent of animals (the late Rev. J. Zimmermann's +_Akra or Gă Grammar_, Stuttgart, 1858). It is represented as speaking +through the nose like the local 'bogy,' and its hobbling gait is imitated +by the story-teller. Another superstition is that the Anánu (the Akra form +of the word) injures children sleeping in the same room with it. At +Fernando Po I found another valuable spider which preys upon cockroaches. +When a cruiser was particularly afflicted by the _blatta_, a couple of +these insects would effectually clear chests and drawers in a few days. +There are other species, _Entekuma_, &c.] + +The upper shaft had been sunk, as it should be, in the eastern flank of +the hill, which faces north 71ş east, and which runs north 3ş west (both +true). The surface and subsoil are the usual sandy loam scattered with +gravel of quartz and ironstone, and the spoil-banks showed blue and white +quartz. The clay-slate, dark, soft, and laminated, appeared everywhere. +Lower down, on the same slope, Mr. Grant had dug a second shaft, somewhat +smaller than the upper: both were full of rain-water. Mr. Walker mentions +a large native pit near the centre, whence rich stone had been taken. He +picked up from the refuse several pieces of quartz showing free gold, +which gave, when assayed, 2.6 oz. gold and 0.3 oz. silver per ton. This +was from a depth of only ten feet. His own trial-shaft, when he left the +Coast, was not more than three feet deep; but every sample showed traces +of gold, and an Australian miner of thirty years' experience declared that +the 'stuff' promised a rich yield below. Like ourselves, he found the +whole country 'impregnated with gold.' On the path within fifty yards of +the Nánwá village we knocked off some pieces of quartz that displayed the +precious ore to the naked eye. + +The slope in which the two shafts had been sunk fell into a depression +between the hills which indicated the richest surface-diggings. Here a +number of detached sinkings had been run together by the recent rains into +a long miry pool. Mr. Walker also speaks of a 'very large number of +shallow native pits.' No one could see this exceedingly rich 'gulch' +without determining that it should be washed upon the largest scale. It +will be time to sink shafts and make deep diggings here when sluicing and +surfacing shall have done their work. + +From Ingotro we marched back to Nánwá and took leave of Chief Apó; his +parting words were a request that work might be begun as soon as possible, +and that at any rate his concession should be properly marked out. The +limitation must not be neglected, but the exploitation of the diggings is +another affair. The ground is exceptionally rich in gold, and it offers +every facility for extracting the metal. But the climate of the lowlands +presents difficulties. In so large an area of broken ground, however, +there are eminences that command a prospect of the sea and which are +within the influence of the sea-breeze. The conditions will, doubtless, +improve when the adjacent mining-grounds, Inyoko and Izrah, shall have +been opened and the country cleared and ventilated. In the meantime light +works and hydraulicking on an extensive scale might be begun at once, +especially during the rainy season, under seasoned and acclimatised +overseers. An amelioration must be the result, and even before the rich +surface has been washed it will be possible to set up heavy machinery for +deep working, shafting, and tunnelling. + +Embarking about 3 P.M. on board _Effuenta_, we steamed up the Ancobra, +which here looks more like a river and less like a lagoon. The settlements +become more important, the first being Nfia-kru, or the 'dog-village.' +There were many influents, which showed like dark breaches in the rampart +of verdure. Such was the Ahema (Huma), a creek that breaks the left bank. +This name may become memorable. Upon its upper course Messieurs Gillett +and Selby have a small mining concession, and in its golden gravels Mr. O. +Pegler, Associate of the School of Mines, found a crystal which he +strongly suspected to be a diamond. It was taken to Axim, where its +glass-cutting properties were proved. Unfortunately during one of these +trials the setting gave way, and the stone fell into a heap of rubbish, +where it could not be found. Many have suspected that these regions will +prove diamantiferous; and it is reported that an experienced French +mineralogist, who has visited the South African diggings, landed at Assini +and proposed to canoe up the Tando River to the Tákwá mines, prospecting +in search of his specialty. + +A portentous cloud ahead growled its thunder and discharged thin rain, +while the westing sun shone clear and bright. In Dahome the combination +suggests the ghosts of Kutomen going to market, [Footnote: The Akra-men +make Sisaman, their Kutomen, Scheol or Hades, a town on one of the Volta +holms or somewhere beyond. The Gold Coast has three species of departed +'spirits' (_asamanfo_)--the shades of men who fell in fight or by accident +(as by a tree-fall); common spirits, and lingering spirits, so called +because they do not enter Shade-land, but hover about man's dwellings. The +slain never associate with the commonalty; they walk about rubbed with +white clay and clad in white; nor are they afraid of, whereas the others +fly from, and are unwilling to be seen by, the living. 'It is said in the +Dead-land below the earth there are kings as well as slaves. If you have +been long sick in this world you will recover health there after three +years, but one killed in battle or by accident will be well in a month or +so. It is said that Dead-land is below (earth); others declare it is above +(the sky). About this there is no certainty. Where one is taken to when he +dies there his spirit is; when they die and take you to the spirits' +grove, then your spirit is in the grove. The town (or land) of the +departed spirits is not in the grove, but in the earth; it is a large +town, and going there a mountain has to be climbed. The way of one who +died a natural death is dark in heaven; but if one who died in battle or +by accident take that way, some of the white clay with which he is rubbed +falls down; therefore his way (_via lactea_) appears white. In the +spirits' grove the departed spirits do not stay always; only on certain +days they assemble there for eating, drinking, and playing.' Yet these +'spiritualists' (_with_ the spirits) have scant pleasure in contemplating +the future. Their proverb is, 'A corner in the world of matter is better +than a world of spirits,'--Page 407, _Dictionary of the Asante and Fante +Languages_, by Rev. J. G. Christaller.] in Fanti-land the hunchback woman +becoming a mother, and in England his Satanic Majesty beating his wife. +Off the Eketekki village we saw, for the first time, bad snags, which will +require removal. About sunset the Aka-kru settlement, the largest yet +noted, appeared on the left bank. Here the Akankon Mining Company has a +native house of wattle and dab, looking somewhat better than the normal +mud-cabin. It had been unceremoniously occupied by natives, who roared +their laughter when ordered to turn out. From Aka-kru there is a direct +line to the Effuenta, within an hour's walk of the Tákwá mine; the four +stages can be covered in twenty hours. [Footnote: Mr. Gillett, who had +lately passed over it, gave me these notes on the line. No. 1 stage from +Aka-kru crosses virgin land, the property of the 'King' of Axim, to +Autobrun (three hours); No. 2 leads over fine level ground to Dompé (nine +hours slow); No. 3 to Abrafu, on the Abonsá River, one march south of the +Abonsá station (three hours); No. 4 to the Effuenta mine (five hours).] + +At 6.30 P.M. we saw, a little above Aka-kru, and also on the left bank, +Jyachabo, or 'Silver-' (Jyácho) 'stone.' Of this settlement Captain Wyatt +notes, 'It is said that a silver-mine was formerly worked here by the +Dutch and Portuguese.' Hard by the north of it lie the ruins of the old +Hollanders' fort, St. John, which the natives have corrupted to +'Senchorsu;' the people, however, did not seem to know their whereabouts. +We determined to push on to Akankon, despite the ugly prospect of a dark +walk through the wet bush, and of deferring the survey to another time. +Suddenly we saw on the right bank the black silhouette of a house, +standing high and lone in its clearing, and we made fast to a good +landing-place, an inclined plane of corduroy. It was an unexpected +pleasure; both had been put up after Cameron left the mine by the native +caretaker, Mr. Morris. + +We slept soundly through a cool and pleasant night at 'Riverside House.' +The large building of palm-fronds, with a roof like the lid of a +lunch-basket, contains three rooms, and will be provided with outhouses. +Inside and outside it is whitewashed above and blackwashed below. The +coal-tar was suggested by my nautical companion; and, for the first time +on the Ancobra River, we exchanged the _bouquet d'Afrique_ for the smell +of Europe. The big crate stands high upon the right bank, here rising +about twenty feet, and affording a pleasant prospect of breezy brown +stream deeply encased in bright green forest. The draught caused by +flowing water keeps the clearing clean of sand-flies, the pest of the +inner settlements, and European employés will find the place healthy. The +up-sloping ground behind the house could be laid out in a pottage-garden; +and, as Bahama-grass grows fast, there will be no difficulty about +disposing of the under-growth. + +Next morning (February 27) we were joined by Mr. Morris, who told the long +tale of his grievances. He had been in charge of ten men for five months, +during which he had not received a farthing of pay. Consequently his gang +had struck work. Thus chatting we followed the cleared path leading up the +right bank of the little Akankon creek: now dry, it is navigable for +canoes during the rains, and falls into the Ancobra under a good corduroy +bridge near the landing-ramp. A line of posts showed the levels which had +been carefully marked by Cameron. It was a pleasure to see the bed; it had +been scraped in many places by the gold-washer, and it promises an ample +harvest when properly worked. We left on the left hand Safahin Sensensé's +village, a cluster of huts surrounded by bananas; we crossed the shallow +head of the creek, all a swamp during the rains; we walked up a dwarf +slope, and after half an hour we found ourselves at 'Granton.' + +The position of Granton is not happily chosen. Though the hill-side faces +south it is beyond reach of the sea-breeze; the damp and wooded depression +breeds swarms of sand-flies, and being only forty feet above the river, it +is reeking hot. The thermometer about noon never showed less than 92ş +(F.), and often rose to 96ş; in the Rains it falls to 72ş, and the nights +are cold with damp. It will be a question which season will here prove the +safest for working. On the coast I should say the Rains; in the higher +lands about the Effuenta mine I am told that the Dries must be preferred. + +Granton is, or was, composed of eight tenements disposed to form a hollow +square. Five of them are native cages of frond and thatch, which I should +have preferred on a second visit. The rest are planks brought from Europe, +good carpentry-work, and raised a little off the ground. Unfortunately the +bulkheads are close above, instead of being latticed for draught. The +items are two boxes--sleeping-room and store-room--with a larger lodging +of four rooms which sadly wants a flying-roof. The offices are kept in +good order by the penniless caretaker, who has been left entirely without +supplies, and who is obliged to borrow our ink-bottles. + +We lost no time in visiting the 'Akankon' reef, a word appropriately +meaning 'abandoned' or 'left alone.' The people, however, understand it in +the sense that, when a miner has taken possession of the ground, and has +shown a right to it, his fellows leave him to work and betake themselves +elsewhere. Immediately behind the huts we came upon a broad streak +cochineal-red, except where tarnished by oxygen, where it looked +superficially like ochre. The strike ran parallel with the quartz-reef, +north 5ş east (true). Cameron had broken some of the stone into chips, +subjected it to the blow-pipe, and obtained bright globules of +quicksilver. Veins of sulphide of mercury, cinnabar, or vermilion have +been found in other parts of the Protectorate: we suspected their presence +at Apatim, and collected specimens, still to be assayed. The natives have +an idea that when 'the gold turns white' it is uncanny to work the place; +moreover, silver is always removed from the person when miners approach +the gold-diggings. I should explain the phenomenon by the presence of +mercury. + +A good road, with side-drains, running about half a mile to the north, has +been kept open by the care-taker. To its right is a manner of hillock, +evidently an old plantation, in some places replanted. From the top a view +to the west shows three several ridges, the Akankon proper, Ijimunbukai, +and Agunah, blue in the distance. Northwards the Akankon hog's-back is +seen sweeping riverwards from north to north-east, rising to the hill +Akankon-bukah. Here Mr. Amondsen, a Danish sailor long employed in +Messieurs Swanzy's local sailing craft, and lately sent out by the +Company, informed me that he proposed to transfer the quarters for +European employés. He has, however, I am told, changed his mind and built +upon 'Plantation Hillock.' On the left or western side of the road the +Akankon ridge is subtended by a hollow, the valley of a streamlet in rainy +weather. This supply, which can easily be made perennial, will greatly +facilitate washing. The highway ended in a depression, where stood the +deserted 'Krumen's quarters.' The only sign of work was a peculiar +cross-cut made by Mr. Cornish, C.E., one of the engineers. + +From this point, turning abruptly from north to west, we took the steep +narrow path which climbs the Akankon ridge, rising 78 feet above the +river. A few paces led us to the prospecting shaft, a native pit squared +and timbered by Mr. Cornish. He was assisted by Mr. James B. Ross, +'practical miner, working manager, and mine-owner for the last twenty +years in Queensland, Australia.' He thus describes himself in the very +able report which he sent to his company; and I am glad to hear that he +has returned to the Gold Coast. The shaft, 40 feet from 'the outcrop,' and +50 from the hill-base, is bottomed at the depth of 52 feet. Unfortunately +it is only box-timbered, and much of the woodwork was shaken down by the +blasts. The sinking through stiff clay, stained with iron, cobalt, +manganese, and cinnabar, was reported easy. But where the hanging and foot +walls should have been, fragments of clay, iron, and mica-slate showed +that the former lie still deeper. My companion proposed a descent into the +shaft by bucket and windlass. I declined, greatly distrusting such +deserted pits, especially in this region, where they appear unusually +liable to foul. Two days afterwards a Kruboy went down and was brought to +grass almost insensible from the choke-damp; his hands clenched the rope +so tightly that their grip was hard to loose. + +We then mounted to 'the outcrop' near the ridge-summit, 100 yards +north-north-east. This reef-crest is a tongue of quartz and quartzite +veining grey granite: it was found dug out and cleared all round by the +people. Mr. Cornish had contented himself with splitting off a fragment by +a shot or two. + +When the whole hill shall have been properly washed, the contained reefs +will present this wall-like appearance. The dimensions are ten feet long +by the same height and half that thickness, and the slope shows an angle +of 40ş. We passed onwards to the top of the ridge, winding among the pits +and round holes sunk by the native miners in order to work the casing of +the reef. One of these, carefully measured, showed 82 feet. About sixty +yards to the north-north-east we reached the crest of what Mr. Ross calls +'Ponsonby Hill.' He notices that the strike of the quartz, which shows +visible gold, is from north-north-east to south-south-west, and its +underlie to the south-east is at the ratio of one inch in twelve. Cameron +found that near the head of the descent, 120 feet to the plain below, +three, and perhaps four lodes meet. The true bed, with a measured +thickness of 157 feet, strikes north 22ş east, the western 355ş, and the +eastern north 37ş east (true). All radiate from one point, a knot which +gives 'great expectations.' The natives have opened large man-holes in +search of loose gold, and here, tradition says, many nuggets have been +found. A greater number will come to light when the miners shall dig the +'blind creek' to the east, and when the roots of the secular trees +crowning the summit shall be laid bare by the hose. I would wash down and +sluice the whole of the Akankon ridge. + +Next day we proceeded to inspect two other reefs lying to the south-west +and to the south-east. The first, Asan-kumá(?), lies a few yards from +Granton, on the left of the path leading to our landing-place. The ground +was covered with deep bush, and painfully infested with the _Nkran_, or +_enkran_, [Footnote: _Anglicč_ the 'driver,' a small black formica which +bites severely, clears out houses, destroys the smaller animals, and has, +it is said, overpowered and destroyed hunters when, torpid with fatigue, +they have fallen asleep in the bush. The same horrible end, being eaten +alive, atom by atom, has befallen white traders whose sickness prevented +their escape. 'Accra,' which calls itself Ga, is known to the Oji-speaking +peoples as 'Enkran,' and must be translated 'Land of Drivers,' not of +White Ants.] which marched in detached but parallel lines. It rises gently +in slopes of yellow clay towards the west, and doubtless it covers +quartz-reefs, as the lay is the usual meridional. The talus, pitted with +the shallow pans called 'women's washings,' shows signs of hard work, +probably dating from the days when every headman had his gang of 'pawns' +and slaves. Rising at the head of the creek, itself a natural gold-sluice, +its bed and banks can carry any number of flumes, which would deposit +their precious burden in cisterns near the river. I need hardly say they +must be made movable, so as to raise their level above the inundation. +Here the one thing wanted would be a miner accustomed to 'hydraulicking' +in California or British Columbia, Australia or South Africa. I hope that +the work will not be placed in inexperienced hands, whose blunders of +ignorance will give the invaluable and infallible process a bad name. + +Retracing our steps, we made the chief Sensensé's village, and persuaded +him to guide us. The short cut led through a forest and a swamp, which +reeked with nauseating sulphuretted hydrogen. We avoided it on return by a +_détour_. After a short hour's walk we ascended a banana-grown hillock, +upon which lay the ruins of the little mining-village Abesebá. A few paces +further, through a forest rich in gamboge and dragon's blood (not the _D. +draco_), in rubber and in gutta-percha (?), where well-laden lime-trees +gave out their perfume, placed us upon the great south-eastern reef. It +was everywhere drilled with pits, and we obtained fine specimens from one +which measured twenty feet deep. Several of them were united by rude and +dangerous tunnels. I have heard of these galleries being pierced in other +places; but the process is not common, and has probably been copied from +Europeans. + +On March 1 was held a formal palaver of headmen and elders. The Akankon +concession had been bought by Messieurs Bonnat and Wyatt from Sensensé of +the fetish, whose ancestors, he declared, had long ruled the whole +country. The rent, they say, was small--$4 per mensem and 15 pereguins +(135_l_. [Footnote: Assuming at 9_l_. the pereguin, which others reduce at +8_l_. and others raise to 10_l_.]) per annum--when operations began. I +have heard these gentlemen blamed, and very unjustly, for buying so cheap +and selling so dear--17,000_l_. in cash and 33,000_l_. in shares. But the +conditions were well worth the native's acceptance; and, if he be +satisfied, no one can complain. The apparently large amount included the +expenses of 'bringing out' the mine; and these probably swallowed a half. +When Sensensé received his pay, a host of rival claimants started up. In +these lands there is no law against trespass; wherever a plantation is +deserted the squatter may occupy it, and popular opinion allows him and +his descendants the permanent right of using, letting, or selling it. I do +not think, however, that this rule would apply to a white man. + +Sensensé's claims were contested by three chiefs--Kofi Blay-chi, Kwáko +Bukári, who brought an acute advocate, Ebba of Axim, and Kwáko Jum, a fine +specimen of the sea-lawyer; this bumptious black had pulled down the board +which marked the Abesebá reef, and had worked the pits to his own profit. +After many meetings, of which the present was our last, the litigants +decided that hire and 'dashes' should be shared by only two, Sensensé and +Kofi Blay-chi. Energetic Jum, finding his pretensions formally ignored, +jumped up and at once set out to 'enter a protest' in legal form at Axim. + +The crowd of notables present affixed their marks, which, however, they by +no means connected with the 'sign of the Cross.' We witnessed the +document, and a case of trade-gin concluded an unpleasant business that +threatened the Apatim as well as the Akankon concession. I repeat what I +have before noted: too much care cannot be taken when title to ground in +Africa is concerned. And a Registration Office is much wanted at +head-quarters; otherwise we may expect endless litigation and the advent +of the London attorney. Moreover, the people are fast learning foreign +ideas. Sensensé, for instance, is nephew (sister's son) to Blay-chi, which +relationship in Black-land makes him the heir: meanwhile his affectionate +uncle works upon the knowledge that this style of succession does not hold +good in England. + +The eventful evening ended with a ball, which demanded another +distribution of gin. The dance was a compound affair. The Krumen had their +own. Forming an Indian file for attack, they carried bits of board instead +of weapons; and it was well that they did so, the warlike performance +causing immense excitement. The Apollonians preferred wide skirts and the +_pas seul_ of an amatory nature; it caused shrieks of laughter, and at +last even the women and wees could not prevent joining in the sport. Years +ago I began to collect notes upon the dances of the world; and the +desultory labour of some months convinced me that an exhaustive monograph, +supposing such thing possible, would take a fair slice out of a man's +life. I learnt, however, one general rule--that all the myriad forms of +dancing originally express only love and war, in African parlance +'woman-palaver' and 'land-palaver.' However much the 'quiet grace of high +refinement' may disguise original significance, Nature will sometimes +return despite the pitchfork; witness a _bal de l'Opéra_ in the palmy days +of the Second Empire. + +The Kruman ball ended in a battle royal. The results were muzzles swollen +and puffed out like those of mandrills, and black eyes--that is to say, +blood-red orbits where the skin had been abraded by fist and stick. As +they applied to us for justice and redress, we administered it, after +'seeing face and back,' or hearing both sides, by a general cutting-off of +the gin-supply and a temporary stoppage of 'Sunday-beef.' + +I cannot leave this rich and unhappy Akankon mine without a few +reflections; it so admirably solves the problem 'how _not_ to do it.' The +concession was negotiated in 1878. In April 1881 Cameron proceeded to open +operations, accompanied by the grantee and four Englishmen, engineers and +miners. He was, however, restricted to giving advice, and was not +permitted to command. The results, as we have seen, were a round shaft +made square and a cross-cut which cut nothing. As little more appeared +likely to be done, and harmony was not the order of the day, my companion +sent the party home in June 1881, and followed it himself shortly +afterwards. Since that time the Company has been spending much money and +making _nil_. The council-room has been a barren battle-field over a +choice of superintendents and the properest kind of machinery, London-work +being pitted, for 'palm-oil' in commission-shape, against provincial work. +And at the moment I write (May 1, 1882), when 7,000_l_. have been spent or +wasted, the shares, 10_s._ in the pound paid up, may be bought for a +quarter. I can only hope that Mr. Amondsen, who met me at Axim, may follow +my suggestions and send home alluvial gold. + +Cameron's most sensible advice concerning the local establishment required +for Akankon was as follows:-- + +He laid down the total expenditure at 21,000_l_. per annum, including +expenses in England. This sum would work 100 tons per diem with 350 hands +(each at 1_s_. hire and 3_d_. subsistence-money) and sixteen cooks and +servants. The staff would consist of six officers. The manager should draw +800_l_. (not 1,200_l_.), and the surgeon, absolutely necessary in case of +accidents, 450_l_. with rations. This is the pay of Government, which does +not allow subsistence. The reduction-officer and the book-keeper are rated +at 500_l_., and the superintendent of works and the head-miner each at +240_l_. The pay of carpenters and other mechanics, who should know how to +make small castings, would range from 180_l_. to 150_l_. The first native +clerk and the store-keeper would be paid 100_l_.; the time-keeper, with +three assistants, 70_l_. and 65_l_. The manager requires office, +sitting-room, and bedroom, and the medico a dispensary; the other four +would have separate sleeping-places and a common parlour. Each room would +have its small German stove for burning mangrove-fuel; and a fire-engine +should be handy on every establishment. All the white employés would mess +together, unless it be found advisable to make two divisions. The house +would be of the usual pitch-pine boarding on piles, like those of Lagos, +omitting the common passage or gallery, which threatens uncleanness; and +the rooms might be made gay with pictures and coloured prints. The natives +would build bamboo-huts. + +Cameron, well knowing what _ennui_ in Africa means, would send out a +billiard-table and a good lathe: he also proposed a skittle- or +bowling-alley, a ground for lawn-tennis under a shed, an ice-machine and +one for making soda-water. Each establishment would have its library, a +good atlas, a few works of reference, and treatises on mining, machinery, +and natural history. The bulk would be the cheap novels (each 4_d_.) in +which weary men delight. In addition to the 'Mining Journal,' the +'Illustrated,' and the comics, local and country papers should be sent +out; exiles care more for the 'Little Pedlington Courant' than for the +'journal of the City,' the 'Times.' + +Gardening should be encouraged. The vegetables would be occros +(_hibiscus_) and brinjalls, lettuce, tomatoes, and marrow; yam and sweet +potatoes, pumpkins, peppers and cucumbers, whose seeds yield a +fine-flavoured salad-oil not sold in London. The fruits are grapes and +pine-apples, limes and oranges, mangoes and melons, papaws and a long list +of native growth. Nor should flowers be neglected, especially the pink and +the rose. The land, fenced in for privacy, would produce in abundance +holeus-millet, rice, and lucern for beasts. There would be a +breeding-ground for black cattle, sheep, goats, and pigs, and a +poultry-yard protected against wild cats. + +The routine-day would be as follows: At 5.15 A.M. first bell, and notice +to 'turn out;' at 5.40 the 'little breakfast' of tea or coffee, +bread-and-butter, or toast, ham and eggs. The five working-hours of +morning (6-11 A.M.) to be followed by a substantial _déjeuner ŕ la +fourchette_ at 11.30. Each would have a pint of beer or claret, and be +allowed one bottle of whisky a week. Mr. Ross, the miner, preferred +breakfast at 8 A.M., dinner at 1 P.M., and 'tea' at 5 P.M.; but these +hours leave scant room for work. + +The warning-bell, at 12.45 P.M., after 1 hr. 45 min. rest, would prepare +the men to fall in, and return to work at 1 P.M.; and the afternoon-spell +would last till 5.30. Thus the working-day contains 9 hrs. 30 min. Dinner +would be served at any time after 6 P.M., and the allowance of liquor be +that of the breakfast. An occasional holiday to Axim should be allowed, in +order to correct the monotony of jungle-life. + + + +CHAPTER XXI. + +TO TUMENTO, THE 'GREAT CENTRAL DEPÔT.' + +March 4 was a sore trial to us both. We 'went down' on the same day and +by our own fault. We had given the sorely-abused climate no chance; nor +have we any right to abuse it instead of blaming ourselves. The stranger +should begin work quietly in these regions; living, if possible, near the +coast and gradually increasing his exercise and exposure. Within three +months, especially if he be lucky enough to pass through a mild +'seasoning' of ague and fever, he becomes 'acclimatised,' the consecrated +term for a European shorn of his redundant health, strength, and vigour. +Medical men warn new comers, and for years we had read their warnings, +against the 'exhaustion of the physical powers of the body from +over-exertion.' They prescribe gentle constitutionals to men whose hours +must do the work of days. It is like ordering a pauper-patient generous +diet in the shape of port and beef-steaks; for the safe system, which +takes a quarter of a year, would have swallowed up all our time. +Consequently we worked too hard. Our mornings and evenings were spent in +collecting, and our days in boating, or in walking instead of hammocking. +Indeed, we placed, by way of derision, the Krumen in the fashionable +vehicle. And we had been too confident in our past 'seasoning;' we had +neglected such simple precautions as morning and evening fires and +mosquito-bars at night; finally, we had exposed ourselves somewhat +recklessly to sickly sun and sweltering swamp. Four days on the burning +hill-side completed the work. My companion was prostrated by a bilious +attack, I by ague and fever. + +'I thought you were at least fever-proof,' says the candid friend, as if +one had compromised oneself. + +Alas! no: a man is not fever-proof in Africa till he takes permanent +possession of his little landed estate. Happily we had our remedies at +hand. There was no medico within hail; and, had there been, we should have +hesitated to call him in. These gentlemen are Government servants, who add +to their official salaries (400_l._ per annum) by private practice. For +five visits to a sick Kruboy six guineas have been charged; 5_l._ for +tapping a liver and sending two draughts and a box of pills, and 37_l._ +10_s._ for treating a mild tertian which lasted a week. The late M. Bonnat +cost 80_l._ for a fortnight. Such fees should attract a host of talented +young practitioners from England; at any rate they suggest that each mine +or group of mines should carry its own surgeon. + +Cameron applied himself diligently to chlorodyne, one of the two +invaluables on the Coast. We had a large store, but unfortunately the +natives have learnt its intoxicating properties, and during our absence +from Axim many bottles had disappeared. I need hardly say that good locks +and keys are prime necessaries in these lands, and that they are mostly +'found wanting.' + +I addrest myself to Warburg's drops (_Tinctura Warburgii_), a preparation +invaluable for travellers in the tropics and in the lower temperates. The +action appears to be chiefly on the liver through the skin. The more a +traveller sees, the firmer becomes his conviction that health means the +good condition of this rebellious viscus, and that its derangement causes +the two great pests of Africa, dysentery and fever. Indeed, he is apt to +become superstitious upon the subject, and to believe that a host of +diseases--gout and rheumatism, cholera and enteric complaints--result +from, and are to be cured or relieved only by subduing, hepatic +disturbances. My 'Warburg' was procured directly from the inventor, not +from the common chemist, who makes the little phialful for 9_d._ and sells +it for 4_s._ 6_d_. Some years ago a distinguished medical friend persuaded +Dr. Warburg, once of Vienna, now of London, to reveal his secret, in the +forlorn hope of a liberal remuneration by the Home Government. Needless to +say the reward is to come. I first learnt to appreciate this specific at +Zanzibar in 1856, where Lieut.-Colonel Hamerton used it successfully in +the most dangerous remittents and marsh-fevers. Cases of the febrifuge +were sent out to the Coast during the Ashanti war for the benefit of army +and navy: the latter, they say, made extensive use of it. I have +persistently recommended it to my friends and the public; and, before +leaving England in 1879, I wrote to the 'Times,' proposing that all who +owe (like myself) their lives to Dr. Warburg should join in relieving his +straitened means by a small subscription. At this moment (June 1882) +measures are being taken in favour of the inventor, and I can only hope +that the result will be favourable. + +The 'drops' are composed of the aromatic, sudorific and diaphoretic drugs +used as febrifuges by the faculty before the days of 'Jesuits' bark,' to +which a small quantity of quinine is added. Thus the tincture is +successful in many complaints besides fevers. Evidently skilful +manipulation is an important factor in the sum of its success. Dr. Warburg +has had the experience of the third of a century, and the authorities +could not do better than to give him a contract for making his own cure. + +The enemy came on with treacherous gentleness--a slight rigor, a dull pain +in the head, and a local irritation. 'I have had dozens of fevers, and +dread them little more than a cold,' said Winwood Reade; indeed, the +English catarrh is quite as bad as the common marsh-tertian of the Coast. +The normal month of immunity had passed; I was prepared for the inevitable +ordeal, and I flattered myself that it would be a mild ague, at worst the +affair of a week, Altro! + +Next morning two white men, owning that they felt 'awful mean,' left +Granton, walked down to Riverside House, and at 8 A.M. embarked upon the +hapless _Effuenta_. The stream rapidly narrowed, and its aspect became +wilder. Dead trees, anchored by the bole-base, cumbered the bed, and dykes +and bars of slate, overlaid by shales of recent date, projected from +either side. The land showed no sign of hills, but the banks were steep at +this season, in places here and there based on ruddy sand and exposing +strips of rude conglomerate, the _cascalho_ of the Brazil. This pudding is +composed of waterworn pebbles, bedded in a dark clayey soil which crumbles +under the touch. On an arenaceous strip projecting from the western edge +the women were washing and panning where the bottom of the digging was +below that of the river. This is an everyday sight on the Ancobra, and it +shows what scientific 'hydraulicking' will do. After six hours of +steaming, not including three to fill the boiler, we halted at Enfrámadié, +the Fanti Frammanji, meaning 'wind cools,' that is, falls calm. It is a +wretched split heap of huts on the left bank, one patch higher pitched +than the other, to avoid the floods; the tenements are mere cages, the +bush lying close to the walls, and supplies are unprocurable. In fact, the +further we go the worse we fare as regards mere lodgings; yet the site of +our present halt is a high bank of yellow clay, which suggests better +things. There is no reason why this miserable hole should not be made the +river-depôt. + +On March 4 we set out in the 'lizard's sun,' as the people call the +morning rays; our vehicle was the surf-boat, escorted by the big canoe. +Enfrámadié is the terminus of launch-navigation; the snags in the Dries +stop the way, and she cannot stem the current of the Rains. The Ancobra +now resembles the St. John's or Prince's River in the matter of +timber-floorwork and _chevaux de frise_ of tree-corpses disposed in every +possible direction. After half an hour we paddled past the 'Devil's Gate,' +a modern name for an old and ugly feature. H.S.M.'s entrance (to home?) is +formed by black reefs and ridges projected gridiron-fashion from ledges on +either side almost across the stream, leaving a narrow _Thalweg_ so +shallow that the boatmen must walk and drag. During the height of the +floods it is sometimes covered for a few hours by forty feet of water, +rising and falling with perilous continuity. + +Beyond 'Devil's Gate' a pleasant surprise awaited us. Mr. D. C. MacLennan, +manager of the Effuenta mine, [Footnote: The name was given by M. Dahse; +it is that of the first worker, Efuátá, a woman born on Saturday (_Efua_), +and the third of a series of daughters (_átá_).] stopped his canoe to +greet us. He was justly proud of his charge--a box of amalgam weighing 15 +lbs. and carrying eighty ounces of gold. It was to be retorted at home and +to be followed within a fortnight by a larger delivery, and afterwards by +monthly remittances. The precious case, which will give courage to so many +half-hearted shareholders, was duly embarked on the A.S.S. _Ambriz_ +(Captain Crookes); and its successor, containing the produce of a hundred +tons, on the B. and A. _Benguela_ (Captain Porter). Consequently the +papers declared that Effuenta was first in the field of results. This is +by no means the case. As early as November 1881 Mr. W. E. Crocker, of +Crockerville, manager of the important Wásá, (Wassaw) mining-property, +sent home gold--amalgam, and black sand [Footnote: I have before noticed +this 'golden sea-sand.' It has lately been found, the papers tell me, on +the coast about Cape Commerell, British Columbia. A handful, taken from a +few inches below the surface, shows glittering specks of 'float-gold,' +scales so fine that it was difficult to wash them by machinery. Mem. This +is what women do every day on the Gold Coast. The _Colonist_ says that a +San Francisco company has at length hit upon the contrivance. It consists +of six drawers or layers of plates punched with holes about half an inch +in diameter, and covered with amalgam. The gold-sand is 'dumped in;' and +the water, turned on the top-plate, sets all in motion: the sand falls +from plate to plate, leaving the free loose gold which has attached itself +to the amalgam, and very little remains to be caught by the sixth plate. +So simple a process is eminently fitted for the Gold Coast.]--a total of +sixty-eight ounces to twenty-five tons. + +After an hour's paddling we sighted a few canoes and surf-boats under a +raised clay-bank binding the stream on the left. This was Tumento +(Tomento), our destination; the word means 'won't go,' as the rock is +supposed to say to the water. The aspect of the Ancobra becomes gloomy and +menacing. The broad bed shrinks to a ditch, almost overshadowed by its +sombre walls of many-hued greens; and the dead tree-trunks of the channel, +ghastly white in the dull brown shade, look to the feverish imagination +like the skeleton hands and fingers of monstrous spectres outspread to bar +thoroughfare. + +We landed and walked a few yards to the settlement. A 'Steam-launch' +sounds grandiose, and so does a 'Great Central Depôt'--seen on paper. And +touching this place I was told a tale. Some time ago two young French +employés, a doctor and an engineer, were sent up to the mines, and fell +victims to the magical influence of the name. Quoth Jules to Alphonse, 'My +friend, we will land; we will call a _fiacre_; we will drive to the local +Three Provincial Brothers; we will eat a succulent repast, and then for a +few happy hours we will forget Blackland and these ignoble blacks.' So +they toiled up the stiff and slippery slope, and found a scatter of +crate-huts crowning a bald head of yellow argil. Speechless with rage and +horror at the sight of the 'Depôt,' they rushed headlong into the canoe, +returned without a moment's delay to Axim, and, finding a steamer in the +bay, incontinently went on board, flying the Dark Continent for ever. + +We housed ourselves in Messieurs Swanzy and Crocker's establishment at +Tumento. The climate appeared wholesome; the river brought with it a +breeze, and we were evidently entering the region of woods, between the +mangrove-swamps of the coast and the grass-lands of the interior. + +At Tumento I met, after some twenty years, Mr. Dawson, of Cape Coast +Castle. The last time it was at Dahoman Agbóme, in company with the Rev. +Mr. Bernasko, who died (1872) of dropsy and heart-disease. He is now in +the employment of the Tákwá, or French Company, and his local knowledge +and old experience had suggested working the mines to M. Bonnat. Some +forty years ago the English merchants of 'Cabo Corso' used to send their +people hereabouts to dig; and more recently Mr. Carter had spent, they +say, 4,000_l_. upon the works. He was followed by another roving +Englishman, who was not more successful. The liberation of pawns and other +anti-abolitionist 'fads' had so raised the wage-rate that the rich placers +were presently left to the natives. We exchanged reminiscences, and he at +once started down stream for Axim. + +As we were unable to work, Mr. Grant proceeded to inspect the concession +called 'Insimankáo,' the Asamankáo of M. Zimmermann. It is the name of the +village near which Sir Charles Macarthy was slain: our authorities +translated it 'I've got you,' as the poor man said to the gold, or the +cruel chief to the runaway serf. Mr. Dawson, who is uncle by marriage to +Mr. Grant, had also suggested this digging. Our good manager, now an adept +at prospecting, found the way very foul and the place very rich. It was +afterwards, as will be seen, visited by Mr. Oliver Pegler and lastly by +Cameron. + +Amongst the few new faces seen at Tumento were two 'Krambos,' Moslems and +writers of charms and talismans. A 'Patent Improved Metallic Book,' which +looked in strange company, contained their 'fetish' and apparently +composed their travelling kit. Both hailed from about Tinbukhtu, but their +Arabic was so imperfect that I could make nothing of their route. These +men acquire considerable authority amongst the pagan negroes, who expect +great things from their 'grígrís.' They managed to find us some eggs when +no one else could. This Hibernian race of Gold Coast blacks had eaten or +sold all its hens, and had kept only the loud-crowing cocks. The presence +of these two youths convinced me that there will be a Mohammedan movement +towards the Gold Coast. A few years may see thousands of them, with +mosques by the dozen established upon the sea-board. The 'revival of +El-Islam' shows itself nowhere so remarkably as in Africa. + +At Tumento Cameron found himself growing rapidly worse. He suffered from +pains in the legs, and owned that even when crossing Africa during his +three years of wild life he remembered nothing more severe. In my own case +there was a severe tussle between Dr. Warburg and Fever-fiend. The attacks +had changed from a tertian to a quotidian, and every new paroxysm left me, +like the 'possessed' of Holy Writ after the expulsion of 'devils,' utterly +prostrate. During the three days' struggle I drained two bottles of +'Warburg.' The admirable drug won the victory, but it could not restore +sleep or appetite. + +Seeing how matters stood, and how easily bad might pass to worse, I +proposed the proceeding whereby a man lived to fight another day. We were +also falling short of ready money, and the tornadoes were becoming matters +of daily occurrence. After a long and anxious pow-wow Cameron accepted, +and it was determined to run down to the coast, and there collect health +and strength for a new departure. No sooner said than done. On March 8 we +left Tumento in our big canoe, passed the night at Riverside House, and +next evening were inhaling, not a whit too soon, the inspiriting +sea-whiffs of Axim. + +The rest of my tale is soon told. + +Cameron recovered health within a week, and resolved to go north again. +His object was to inspect for the second time the working mines about +Tákwá, and to note their present state; also to make his observations and +to finish his map. He did not look in full vigour; and, knowing his +Caledonian tenacity of purpose, I made him promise not to run too much +risk by over-persistence. After a _dîner d'Axim_ and discussing a +plum-pudding especially made for our Christmas by a fair and kind friend +at Trieste, he set out Ancobra-wards on March 16. He would have no Krumen; +so our seven fellows, who refused to take service in the Effuenta mine, +were paid off and shipped for 'we country.' The thirty hands ordered in +mid-January appeared in mid-March, and were made over to Mr. MacLennan. My +companion set out with faithful Joe, Mr. Dawson the stuffer, and his dog +Nero. I did not hear of him or from him till we met at Madeira. + +My case was different. I could not recover strength like my companion, who +is young and who has more of vital force to expend. This consideration +made me fearful of spoiling his work: a sick traveller in the jungle is a +terrible encumbrance. I therefore proposed to run south and to revisit my +old quarters, 'F.Po' and the Oil Rivers, in the B. and A. s.s. _Loanda_ +(Captain Brown), the same which would pick up my companion after his +return to Axim. + +Life on the coast was not unpleasant, despite the equinoctial gales which +broke on March 19 and blew hard till March 25. I had plenty of occupation +in working up my notes, and I was lucky enough to meet all the managers of +the working mines who were passing through Axim. From Messieurs Crocker +(Wásá), MacLennan (Effuenta), Creswick (Gold Coast Company), and Bowden +(Tákwá [Footnote: Alias the African Gold Coast Company, whose shareholders +are French and English. It has lately combined with the Mine d'Or +d'Abowassu (Abosu), the capital being quoted at five millions of francs. +Thus the five working mines are reduced to four, while the 'Izrah' and +others are coming on (May 1882).]) I had thus an opportunity of gathering +much hearsay information, and was able to compare opinions which differed +widely enough. I also had long conversations with Mr. A. A. Robertson, +lately sent out as traffic-manager to the Izrah, and with Mr. Amondsen, +the Danish sailor, then _en route_ to the hapless Akankon mine. Mr. Paulus +Dahse, who was saved from a severe sickness by Dr. Roulston and by his +brother-in-law, Mr. Wulfken, eventually became my fellow-passenger to +Madeira, where I parted from him with regret. During long travel and a +residence of years in various parts of the Gold Coast he has collected a +large store of local knowledge, and he is most generous in parting with +his collection. + +But, when prepared to embark on board the _Loanda_, which was a week late, +my health again gave way, and I found that convalescence would be a long +affair. Madeira occurred to me as the most restful of places, and there I +determined to await my companion. The A.S.S. _Winnebah_ (Captain Hooper) +anchored at Axim on March 28; the opportunity was not to be lost, and on +the same evening we steamed north, regaining health and strength with +every breath. + +The A.S.S. _Winnebah_ could not be characterised as 'comfortable.' Mr. +Purser Denny did his best to make her an exception to the Starvation rule, +but even he could not work miracles. She is built for a riverboat, and her +main cabin is close to the forecastle. She was crowded with Kruboys, and +all her passengers were 'doubled up.' A full regiment of parrots was on +board, whose daily deaths averaged twenty to thirty. The birds being worth +ten shillings each, our engines were driven as they probably had never +been driven before, and the clacking of the safety-valve never ceased. + +The weather, however, was superb. We caught the north-east Trade a little +north of Cape Palmas, and kept it till near Grand Canary. On April 13, +greatly improved by the pleasant voyage and by complete repose, I rejoiced +once more in landing at the fair isle Madeira. + +And now _Cameronus loquitur_. + + + +CHAPTER XXII. + +TO INSIMANKÁO AND THE BUTABUÉ RAPIDS. + +Leaving Axim on March 16, I slept at Kumprasi and remarked a great change +in the bar of the Ancobra River. During the dry season it had been +remarkably good, but now it began to change for the worse; and soon it +will become impassable for three or four days at a time. My surf-boat, +when coming across it, shipped three seas. On my return down the river +(April 15) the whole sand-bank to the west of the mouth had been washed +away, forming dangerous shoals; the sea was furiously breaking and +'burning,' as the old Dutch say, and the waves which entered the river +were so high that canoes were broken and boats were seriously damaged. + +I stored my goods in the surf-boat, and set out in our big canoe early +next morning. A string of dug-outs was next passed, loaded with +palm-kernels, maize, and bananas; it appeared as if they were all bound +for the market at Axim. I took specimens of swish and stone from 'Ross's +Hill.' The top soil showed good signs of gold, and the grains were +tolerably coarse. Here a floating power-engine would soon bare the reefs +and warp up the swamp. Messieurs Allan and Plisson, who were floating down +in a surf-boat, gave me the news that the steam-launch _Effuenta_ had at +last succumbed in the struggle for life. + +I landed at Akromási, a village where the true bamboo-cane grows, and +found the soil to be a grey sandy clay; there were many 'women's washings' +near the settlement. Shortly before reaching the Ahenia River we saw the +landing-place for the valuable 'Apatim concession.' They told me on +enquiry that the stream is deep and has been followed up in a surf-boat +for a mile or two. It may therefore prove of use to Mr. Irvine's property, +Apatim. + +At half-past five that evening I reached Akankon, and slept well at +'Riverside House.' Mr. Morris had begun levelling the ground and building +new quarters for general use. I gave him some slips of bamboo and roots of +Bahama-grass, as that planted had grown so well. + +Next morning we got under way early (6.50) and proceeded up the river. The +canoe-men, seeing pots of palm-wine on the banks, insisted upon landing to +slake their eternal thirst. The mode in which the liquor is sold shows a +trustfulness on the part of the seller which may result from firm belief +in his 'fetish.' Any passer-by can drink wine _ŕ discrétion_, and is +expected to put the price in a calabash standing hard by. Beyond the +Yengéni River I saw for the first and only time purple clay-slate +overlying quartz. Collecting here and there specimens of geology, and +suffering much from the sun, for I still was slightly feverish, I reached +the 'great central depôt' at 4 P.M. + +Tumento was found by observation to lie in N. lat. 4ş 12' 20" and in W. +long. (Gr.) 2ş 12' 25". Consequently it is only eighteen direct +geographical miles from the sea, the mouth of the Ancobra being in W. lat. +2ş 54'. Some make the distance thirty and others sixty miles. The latter +figure would apply only by doubling the windings of the bed. + +This ascent of the river convinced me more than ever that Enfrámadié is +the proper terminus of its navigation. I passed the next day at Tumento, +which proved to be only half the distance usually supposed along the +Ancobra bed from its mouth. The time was spent mainly in resting and +doctoring myself. At night the rats, holding high carnival, kept me awake +till 3 A.M.; and I heard shots being continually fired from a native mine +whose position was unknown. The natives now know how to bore and blast; +consequently thefts of powder, drills, and fuses become every day more +common. My first visit (March 20) was to the Insimankáo concession. I left +the surf-boat behind, and put my luggage into small canoes hired at +Tumento, myself proceeding in the large canoe. We shoved off from the +beach at 8.50 A.M. The Ancobra had now, after the late rains, a fair +current instead of being almost dead water; otherwise it maintained the +same appearance. The banks are conglomerate, grey clay and slate; gravel, +sand, shingle, and pebbles of reddish quartz, bedded in earth of the same +colour, succeeding one another in ever-varying succession. Only two reefs, +neither of them important, projected from the sides. + +After an hour and a half paddling we reached the Fura, which I should call +a creek; it is not out of the mangrove-region. The bed is set in high, +steep banks submerged during the rains; and the narrowness of the mouth, +compared with the upper part, made it run, after the late showers, into +the Ancobra like a mill-race. In fact, the paddlers were compelled to +track in order to make headway. After ten minutes (=200 yards) we reached +a landing-place, all jungle with rotting vegetation below. I do not think +that as a waterway the Fura Creek can be made of any practical use; but it +will be very valuable for 'hydraulicking.' Canoes and small surf-boats may +run down it at certain seasons, but the flow is too fast and the bed is +too full of snags and sawyers to be easily ascended. + +At the landing-place I mounted my hammock and struck the path which runs +over level ground pretty thick with second-growth. The chief Bimfú, who +met me at Tumento, had broken his promise to guide me, and had neglected +to clear the way. On a largish creek which was nearly dry I saw a number +of 'women's washings.' Then we passed on the right a hillock seventy to +eighty feet high, where quartz showed in detached and weathered blocks. +Beyond it were native shafts striking the auriferous drift at a depth of +eight to ten feet. A few yards further on the usual washings showed that +the top soil is also worth working. + +Another half-hour brought us to about a dozen native shafts in the usual +chimney shape. They were quite new and had been temporarily left on +account of the rise of the water, which was here twenty-four feet below +the surface. The top soil is of sandy clay, and the gold-containing +drifts, varying in thickness, they told me, from two to four feet, +consisted of quartz pebbles bedded in red loam. The general look of the +stratum and the country suggested an old lagoon. + +An hour and a half of hammock brought me from the landing-place of the +Fura Creek to the village of Insimankáo. Rain was falling heavily and +prevented all attempts at observation. The settlement is the usual group +of swish and bamboo box-huts nestling in the bush. A small clean +bird-cage, divided into two compartments, with standing bedstead, was +assigned to me. Next morning I walked to the Insimankáo mine by a path +leading along, and in places touching, the bank of the Fura Creek, which +runs through the whole property. After thirty-three minutes we reached the +'marked tree.' Here the land begins to rise and forms the Insimankáo Hill, +whose trend is to north-north-east. Mr. Walker calls it Etia-Kaah, or +Echia-Karah, meaning 'when you hear (of its fame) you will come.' It is +the usual mound of red clay, fairly wooded, and about 150 feet high; the +creek runs about 100 yards west of the pits. The reefs seemed to be almost +vertical, with a strike to the north-north-east; and the walls showed +slate, iron-oxide, and decomposed quartz. The main reef [Footnote: Mr. O. +Pegler (A.R.S.M.) describes it as a 'very powerful reef outcropping boldly +from a hill at a short distance from the native village, the strike being +north-north-east to south-south-west, and the vein having a great +inclination. At the crest of the hill it presents a massive appearance, +and is many feet in width--in some places between twenty and thirty feet. +This diminishes towards the native pits, and there the vein diverges into +two portions, both presenting a decomposed appearance, the casing on both +foot and hanging wall having a highly talcose character.' This engineer +also washed gold specks from the loose soil. Finally, he notes that the +massive quartz-outcrop is homogeneous and crystalline, giving only traces +of gold, but that the stone improves rapidly with depth.] was from eight +to ten feet thick, and I believe that there are other and parallel +formations. But the ground is very complicated, and for proper study I +should have required borings and cross-cuts. + +There were two big rough pits called shafts. I descended into the deeper +one, which was fourteen to fifteen feet below ground. The walls would +repay washing on a large scale; and the look of the top soil reminded me +of the descriptions of old California and Australia when there were rushes +of miners to the gold-fields, carrying for all machinery a pick, a pan, +and a tin 'billy.' + +The Insimankáo concession contains 1,000 fathoms square; the measurements +being taken from a 'marked tree' on the north-western slope of the hill +with the long name. The position is N. lat. 5ş 18' 15" and the long. W. +(Gr.) 2ş 14' 03". West of the centre the Fura Creek receives a small +tributary. Mr. Walker took fair samples from the well-defined reef and the +outcropping boulders, whose strike is from north-north-east to +south-south-west. He notes that the land Egwira, which lies between Wásá +and Aowin, was long famous for its mining-industry, and that it appears in +old maps as a 'Republick rich in gold.' We heard of the Abenje mine on the +same reef, four to five miles east of Insimankáo; and he declares that it +has been abandoned because the population is too scanty. + +I left this mining property convinced that working it will pay well. The +only thing to be guarded against is overlapping the French concession of +Mankuma, which lies immediately to the east. + +From the mine I walked back to the village, breakfasted, and returned in +the canoes to the sluice-like mouth of the Fura Greek. I then ascended the +Ancobra, in order to inspect the Butabué rapids, said to be the end of +canoe-navigation. We passed on the right a reef and a shallow of +conglomerate, washed out of the banks and forming a race; there is another +reef with its rip at Aroásu. In the early part of the afternoon we got to +the village of Ebiásu, which means 'not dark.' Here the equinoctial +showers began to fall heavily, and I was again obliged to sleep without +observations. The village is built upon a steep bank of yellow clay, with +rich red oxides; it stands forty feet above the present level, and yet at +times it is flooded out. + +Leaving Ebiásu next morning, I found the banks of sand, clay, and small +pebbles beginning to shelve. We passed over slaty rocks in the bed; and +the depth of water was often not more than three feet. Women's washings +were seen on the left bank, and the river had risen after they had been +worked. We could not approach them on account of the reefs and the +current. The opposite bank, about five minutes further up, is of soft +sandstone; and here a native tunnel of forty to fifty feet had been run in +from the river to communicate with a shaft. My men were nervous about +leopards, and I had to encourage them by firing my rifle into the hole. +The normal formation continued, and here the land is evidently built by +the river; there are few hills, and the present direction of the bed has +been determined by the rocks and reefs, the outliers of the old true +coast. These features may have been lower than they are now, and owe their +present elevation to upheaval. Immature conglomerate--that is, a pudding +of pebbles and hardened clay--seems to have been deposited in the +synclinal curve of the bed-rock, principally slate. Overlying both are the +top soil and the sands, the latter often resembling the washed out +tailings of stamped rock. + +Passing the village Abanfokru, I found myself amongst the extensive +concessions of the French, who have taken the alluvial grounds for washing +and working. M. Bonnat's map gives the approximate positions and +dimensions; and the several sites are laid down by M. Dahse. I shall have +more to say about this section on my return. + +Navigation now becomes more intricate and difficult, owing to rocks and +reefs, rips and rapids. A large stony holm about mid-stream is called +Eduásim, meaning 'thief in river.' I need not repeat from my map the names +of the unimportant settlements. At the mouth of the Abonsá the bed widens +to nearly double, and the north-easterly direction shifts to due north. +This great drain, falling into the left bank, lies between five and six +miles above the Fura Creek. I shall have more to say about it when +describing my descent. Two miles further north brought us to the beginning +of the rapids, which apparently end the boat-navigation. The only canoes +are used for ferrying; I saw no water-traffic, and there were no longer +any fish-weirs. Moreover, the country has been deserted, I was told, since +the arrival of strangers. The natives have probably been treated with +little consideration. A quarter of an hour's hauling, all hands being +applied to the canoe, took us about fifty yards over the Impayim rapid, +whose fall is from four to five feet deep. Immediately after the Butabué +influent on the right bank the bed bends abruptly east, and we reached the +far-famed rapids of that name. Here the whole surface, as far up as the +eye can see, is a mass of rocks and of broken, surging water. The +vegetation of the banks, bound together by creepers, llianas, and rattans, +is peculiarly fine. I landed upon one of the rocks, sketched the Butabué, +whose name none could explain, and returned down stream to the 'great +central Depôt,' Tumento. + +I can say little about the River Ancobra above the rapids, except that it +resumes its course from the north-north-east and the north, apparently +guided by the hills. The sources are now only a few miles distant, but the +stream is unnavigable, and they must be reached on foot. The late M. +Bonnat walked up by a hunter's path, now killed out, to the ruins of Bush +Castle, which Jeekel calls Fort Ruyghaver. He there secured possession of +the rich Asamán mines, which the work was intended to defend. There is +some fetish there, and the place is known as the burial-ground of the +kings. I was also told that four or five marches off a _cache_ of +treasure, described to be large, had been made during the Ashanti-Gyáman +war, and had been defended by the usual superstitions. Fetish may have +lost much of its power on the coast; in the interior, however, it is still +strong, and few white men live long after being placed under its ban. + + + +CHAPTER XXIII. + +TO EFFUENTA, CROCKERVILLE, AND THE AJI BIPA HILL. + +At Tumento the halt of a day (March 22) was necessary in order to hire +carriers and get ready for the march eastward. Here, too, I washed sundry +specimens of soft earth from various parts of the river-banks, finding +colour of gold in all except the grey clay. Our Mohammedan friends were +there; the eldest called upon me and was exceedingly civil, besides being +to a certain extent useful. For the hire of a shilling and two cakes of +Cavendish he found me eggs in a village some three miles off, and he ended +by writing me a 'safy,' which would bring me good luck in all my +undertakings. It consists of the usual Koranic quotations in black, and of +magic numbers in pink, ink. + +Dr. Roulston and Mr. Higgins, the new District Commissioner for Tákwá, +entered Tumento about 3 P.M. The carriers hired in addition to my +canoe-men would now be wanted, said the cunning old chief, for the +'Government man,' with whom he wished to stand well. As the porters had +received an advance of pay I objected to this proceeding. The fresh +arrivals had to find other hands, and were not very successful in the +search. Their detachment of twenty-five Haussa soldiers, who had escorted +to the coast Dr. Duke, the acting commissioner lately invalided, were sent +abroad in all directions to act press-gang, and the natural lawlessness of +the race came out strong. The force is injured by enlisting 'Haussas' who +are not Haussa at all; merely semi-savage and half-pagan slaves. On +detached duty they get quite out of hand; and they by no means serve to +make our Government popular. By the rules of the force they should never +be absent from head-quarters for more than six months; their transport +costs next to nothing, as they march by bush-paths. And yet they are kept +for years on outpost-duty, where it would require a Glover to discipline +them and to make them steady soldiers. They live by plunder. A private on +a shilling a day will eat three fowls, each worth 9_d_. to 10_d_., and +drink any taken amount of palm-wine. There are no means of punishment, or +even of securing a criminal; the colony cannot afford irons or handcuffs; +there is no prison, and a Haussa, placed under arrest in a bamboo-hut, +cuts his way out as easily as a rat from a bird-cage. + +One of these men was accused of murdering a woman in one of the villages +on the way. His comrades brought in husbands, wives, and children +indiscriminately, not sparing even the chiefs. Bimfú, of Insimankáo, was +among the number; next morning, however, he threw his pack, bolted to the +bush, and eventually reported his grievances to Axim. The second headman +of Tumento, when pressed, managed to secure a very small load. But as +payment is by weight, 6_d_. per 10 lbs. from the river to Effuenta, and no +subsistence is allowed, his gains were small in proportion; he received +for three days only 9_d_., the ordinary value of porter's rations. + +Next day (March 23) we left Tumento at 7.30 A.M. The caravan consisted of +thirty-two men, all told--canoe-men from Axim, Tumento bearers, boatswain, +and my three body-servants. All were under the command of Joe the +Indefatigable, who formed a kind of body-guard of gun-carriers out of the +porters that carried the lightest packs. Mr. Dawson assisted me in +collecting; Paul prepared to shoulder a bed, and the boatswain was ordered +to catch butterflies. The cries of 'bátli,' 'basky,' and 'bokkus' (bottle, +basket, and box) continually broke the silence of the bush and gladdened +the collector's ears. I was still able to dispense with the hammock. + +In the first few minutes the path trends southwards; it then assumes and +keeps an easterly direction. Here is a water-parting: the many little +beds, mostly full of water, flow either north towards the Abonsá or south +and westwards to the Ancobra. They are divided by detached hills, or +rather oblong mounds, of the same formation as the beds; quartz, gravel, +and red clay, all disposed in the usual direction. Women's washings were +seen everywhere along the road, and in some places oozings of iron from +the soil heavily charged the streamlets. Some of the quartz-boulders were +coloured outside like porphyry by the oxide. About three-quarters of the +way from Tumento to Apankru is a hill rich in outcrops of quartz. I +believe it to be French property. + +These rises and falls led over 7-1/2 direct geographical miles, usually +done in three hours, to Apankru, a second 'great central Depôt.' The +village lies on the right bank of the Abonsá River, here some forty feet +high. It is composed almost entirely of the store-houses of the several +companies--(Gold Coast) Effuenta, and Swanzy's (English), the African Gold +Coast and Mines d'Or d'Aboassu [Footnote: At first I supposed the word to +be Abo-Wásá, or Stones of Wásá: it is simply Abosu, meaning 'on the +rock.'] (French). Only the latter use the Abonsá for transport purposes--I +think very unwisely. My descent of the stream will show all its dangers of +snags, rapids, and heavy currents. Here it rises high during the floods, +and sometimes it swamps the lower courtyards. + +I put up at Mr. Crocker's establishment, which was, as usual, nice and +clean; and the officials went on to Effuenta. The native clerk took good +care of me, probably moved thereto by Mr. Joe, who addressed him, 'Here, +gib me key; I want house for _my_ master!' During the evening, in the +intervals of heavy rain, I obtained a latitude by Castor. Apankru lies in +north latitude 5ş 13' 55", and its longitude (by calculation) is 0ş 20' 6" +west. + +The next morning (March 24) was dark and threatening. At 6.30 A.M. we +struck into the path, a mere bush-track, the corduroys and bridges made by +the Swanzy house having completely disappeared. This want of public +feeling, of 'solidarity,' amongst the several mining companies should be +remedied with a strong hand. These men seem not to know that rivalry may +be good in buying palm-oil, but is the wrong thing in mining. Such a +jealousy assisted in making the Spanish proverb 'A silver mine brings +wretchedness; a gold mine brings ruin.' Even in England I have met with +unwise directors who told me, 'Oh, you must not say that, or people will +prefer such and such a mine.' But, speaking generally, employers are aware +that unity of interest should produce solidarity of action. The local +employés like to breed divisions, in order to increase their own +importance. This should be put down with a strong hand; and all should +learn the lesson that what benefits one mine benefits all. Many of the +little streams run between steep banks, and in the rainy season mud and +water combine to make the line impracticable. Yet there is nothing to +stand in the way of a cheap tram; and perhaps this would cost less and +keep better than a metalled road. The twisting of the track, 'without +rhyme or reason,' reminded me of the snakiest paths in Central Africa. Our +course, as the map shows, was in every quadrant of the compass except the +south-western. + +On our left or north ran the Aunábé, M. Dahse's Ahunabé, [Footnote: M. +Dahse's paper, _Die Goldküste_ (Geog. Soc. of Bremen, vol. ii., 1882), has +been ably translated by Mr. H. Bruce Walker, jun., of the India Store +Depôt.] the northern fork of the Abonsá, which falls into the right bank +below Apankru. It has a fine assortment of mixed rapids, which show well +during the floods. Hills of the usual quartz blocks, gravels, sand, and +clay lead, after 1 hr. 40 min. walking and collecting, at the rate of two +geographical miles an hour, to Mr. Crocker's second set of huts. They were +built on a level for shelter and resting-places before Apankru was in +existence, and were baptised 'Sierra Leone' by emigrants from the white +man's grave and the black man's Garden of Eden. + +Beyond this settlement is a fine quartz hill, round the northern edge of +which the path winds to the little Kwansakru. This is a woman's village, +where the wives of chiefs who have mining-rights, accompanied by their +slaves, are stationed, to pan gold for their lazy husbands. In this way +may have arisen the vulgar African story of Amazon settlements. Messieurs +Zweifel and Moustier [Footnote: _Voyage_, &c., p. 115.] were told by a +Kissi man that twelve marches behind their country is a large town called +Nahalo, occupied only by the weaker sex. A man showing himself in the +streets, or met on the road, is at once put to death; however, some of the +softer-hearted have kept them prisoners, and the result may easily be +divined. All the male issue is killed and only the girls are kept. + +Many large 'women's washings' of old date give us a hint how the country +should be worked. All along the line of the Aunábé white sands, the +tailings of natural sluices, have been deposited; the black sand sinking +by its own weight. I was unable to find out the extent of the French +concessions, and look forward to the coming day of compulsory definition +of boundaries and registration in Government offices. These grants are +mingled in inextricable confusion with those secured by 'Surgeon-Major Dr. +James Africanus Beale Horton, Esq.' + +Soon after Kwansakru we exchanged the ordinary path for a mere thread in +the bush, leading to the southern end of Tebribi Hill. The name, according +to Mr. Sam, means 'when you hear, it shakes,' signifying that the thunder +reverberates from the heights owing to its steep side and gives it a +tremulous motion. This abrupt, cliff-like side is the western, where the +schistose gneiss is exposed for a thickness of 60 feet and more: the stone +is talcose, puddinged in places with quartz pebbles, and everywhere +showing laminations of black sand. The long oval mound of red clay, +overgrown with trees, and rising 295 feet above sea-level, is all +auriferous; but there are placers richer than their neighbours. Tebribi +was the favourite washing-ground of the Apinto Wásás; but the old shafts +were all neglected after the Dutch left, and no deep sinking was known +within the memory of man until the last twelve years. I passed a pit on +the western flank; the winch had been removed, and my people found it +impracticable: we descended to it by cut steps and followed a cornice, +mainly artificial, for a short distance to where its mouth opened. This +hole had been sunk 70 to 80 feet deep in the talcose stone; and it would +have been far easier and better to have driven galleries and adits into +the face of the rock. + +We took fourteen minutes to clamber up the stiff side in the pelting rain, +with a tornado making ready to break. Ten minutes more, along the level, +and a total of three hours, placed us at Mr. Crocker's Bellevue House. I +had been asked to baptise it, and gave the name after a place in Sevenoaks +which overlooks the wooded expanse of the Kentish weald. The place being +locked up, we at once committed burglary; I occupied one of the two +boarded bedrooms with plank walls, and my men established themselves in +the broad and well-thatched verandah. When the view cleared we saw various +outliers of hill, all running nearly parallel and striking north with more +or less easting; the temperature was delightful, and between the showers +the breezes were most refreshing. At night a persistent rain set in and +ruined all chance of getting sights. + +The next morning broke dull and grey with curtains of smoky fog and mist +hanging to the hills; and the heavy wet made the paths greasy and +slippery. Leaving Bellevue House, we walked along the whole length of the +ridge in half an hour; and, descending the north-western slope, we struck +the main thoroughfare--such as it is. Reaching the level, we found more +'women's washings,' and the highly auriferous ground looked as if made for +the purpose of hydraulic mining. + +Another half-hour along the lower flat led us to Burnettville, Crocker's +_Ruhe_ No. 3. It is a large native-built house fronted by long narrow +quarters for negroes on the other side of the road. The path crossed +several streamlets trending north to the Aunábé, and a bad mud which had +seen corduroy in its better days. Blocks of quartz and slate protruded +between the patches of bog. We then traversed fairly undulating and +well-wooded ground, clay-stone coated with oxide of iron; we crossed +another small stream flowing northwards, and we began the ascent leading +to 'Government House, Tákwá.' It is also known as Mount Pleasant, Prospect +Mount, and Vinegar Hill. + +The site facing the Effuenta mine is the summit of a long thin line about +275 feet high. This queer specimen of official head-quarters was built by +the united genius of the owners of the ground, Mr. Commissioner Cascaden +and Dr. Duke. As before said the really comfortable house of boarding has +been bequeathed to the white ants at Axim by the Government of the Golden +Land, too poor to pay transport. Commissioner and doctor receive no +house-allowance, and according to popular rumour, which is probably +untrue, were graciously told that they might pig in a native hut in or +about Tákwá. Consequently they built this place and charge a heavy rent +for it. + +Government House is a large parallelogram of bamboo. The roof is an +intricate mass of branches and tree-trunks, with a pitch so flat that it +admits every shower. Mr. Higgins was at once obliged to expend +10_l_.-12_l_. in removing and restoring the house-cover. Under it are +built two separate and independent squares of wattle with plank floors +raised a foot or so off the ground; these dull and dismal holes, which +have doors but no windows, serve as sleeping-places. The rest of the +interior goes by the name of a sitting-room. The outer walls are +whitewashed on both sides, and between them and the two wattle squares is +a space of 6 to 8 feet, adding to the disproportionate appearance of the +interior. Had it been divided off in the usual way the tenement would have +been much more comfortable. There is a scatter of ragged huts, grandiosely +designated as the barracks, on the level space where the Haussas parade. +When Mr. Higgins was making himself water-tight, these lazy loons had the +impudence to ask that he would either have their lines mended or order new +ones to be built. I would have made them throw down their ramshackle +cabins, knock up decent huts, and keep them in good order. + +Leaving Government House, I descended the steep incline of Vinegar Hill, +passed through the little Esanuma village, and crossed two streams flowing +south. One is easily forded; the eastern has a corduroy bridge 176 ft. +long, built to clear the muds on either side. I shall call this double +water the Tákwá rivulet, and shall have more to say about it on my return. + +Another steep ascent placed me at the Effuenta establishment. I was now +paying my second visit to the far-famed Tákwá Ridge. It is a long line +running parallel with Vinegar Hill, but instead of being regular, like its +neighbour, it is broken into a series of small crests looking on the map +like vertebrć; these heights being parted by secondary valleys, some of +which descend almost to the level of the flowing water. Westward the +hog's-back is bounded by the Tákwá rivulet, rising in the northern part of +the valley. Eastwards there is a corresponding feature called by the +English 'Quartz Creek:' it breaks through the ridge in the southern +section of the Effuenta property and unites with the Tákwá. My aneroid +showed the height of the crest to be 260 feet above sea-level, and about +160 above the valley. Mr. Wyatt has raised it to 1,400 feet--a curious +miscalculation. + +At Effuenta I found Mr. MacLennan, the manager whom we last met at Axim. +Owing to the drowned-out state of 'Government House' he had given +hospitality to Messieurs Higgins and Roulston, and I could not prevent his +leaving his own sleeping-room for my better accommodation. I spent two +days with him inspecting the mine and working up my notes; during this +time Mr. Bowden, of Tákwá, and Mr. Ex-missionary Dawson passed through the +station; and I was unfortunate in missing the former. + +'Effuenta House' is a long narrow tenement of bamboo and thatch, divided +into six or seven rooms, and built upon a platform of stone and swish +raised seven feet off the ground. All the chambers open upon a broad +verandah, which shades the platform. The inmate was talking of rebuilding, +as the older parts were beginning to decay. He had just set up in his +'compound' two single-room bamboo houses, with plank floors raised four +feet off the ground; these were intended to lodge the European staff. +Other bamboo huts form the offices and the stores. The Kru quarters are at +the western base of the hill; a few hands, however, live in the two little +villages upon the Tákwá rivulet. The Sierra Leone and Akra artificers +occupy their own hamlet between the Kru lines and the stamps. Last year +there was a garden with a small rice-field, but everything was stolen as +soon as it was fit to gather. + +Next morning Mr. MacLennan led me to the diggings. This concession, which +is the southernmost but one upon the Tákwá ridge, contains one thousand by +two thousand fathoms; and desultory work began in 1880. The rock, a +talcose gneiss, all laden with gold, runs along the whole length of the +hill, striking, as usual, north 6ş east (true). In places it forms a +basset, or outcrop, cresting the summit; and the eastern flank is cliffy, +like that of the Tebribi. To get at the ore three shafts have been sunk on +the western slope of the ridge just below the highest part, and a passage +is being driven to connect the three. A rise for ventilation, and for +sending down the stone, connects this upper gallery with a lower one; and +the latter is being pushed forward to unite the three tunnels pierced +horizontally near the foot of the hill, at right angles to the lode. There +is also a fourth tunnel below the manager's house, which will be joined on +to the others. The three tunnels open westward upon a tramway, along which +the ore is carried to the stamps. I judged the output already made to be +considerable, but could not make an estimate, as it was heaped up in +different places. + +The stamp-mill, lying to the extreme north of the actual workings, is +supplied with water by a leat from the eastern Tákwá rivulet. The twelve +head of stamps, on Appleby's 'gravitation system,' are driven by a +Belleville boiler and engine; this has the merit of being portable and the +demerit of varying in effective power, owing to the smallness of the +steam-chest. The battery behaves satisfactorily; only the pump, which is +worked by the cam-shaft, wants power to supply the whole dozen; +consequently another and independent pump has been ordered. Krumen, who +will never, I think, make good mine-workmen, are constantly employed in +washing the blankets as soon as they are charged; and the resulting black +sand is carried to the washing-house to be panned, or rather calabashed, +by native women. In time we shall doubtless see concentrating bundles and +amalgamating barrels. + +The three iron-framed stamp-boxes discharge their sludge into two parallel +mercury- or amalgam-boxes, which Mr. Appleby declares will arrest 75 to 80 +per cent. of free gold. It then passes on to the distributing table, the +flow to the strakes being regulated by small sluices. Of the latter there +is one to each width of green baize or of mining-cloth made for the +purpose. The overflow of the sluices runs into a large tailing-tank of +board-work, with holes and plugs at different levels to tap the contents. +These tailings are also washed by women. + +Finally, the mercury is squeezed through leathers and the hard amalgam is +sent for treatment to England. Retorting is not practised at present in +any of the mines. The only reduction-gear belongs to the Gold Coast Mining +Company; and some time must elapse before it is ready for use. My +discovery of native cinnabar will then prove valuable. + +The Effuenta can now bring to bank, with sufficient hands, at least a +hundred tons a day of good paying ore; whereas the stamps can crush at +most one-tenth. When this section of the lode, about 200 fathoms, shall be +worked, there will still be the balance of 1,000. But even this fifth of +the property will supply material for years. The proportion of gold +greatly varies, and I should not like to hazard a conjecture as to +average, but an ounce and a half or two ounces will not be above the mark. + +At present the manager works under the difficulty of wanting European +assistants. His mining-engineer and one mechanic lately left him to return +home; and he has only a white book-keeper, an English working-miner, and a +mechanic, besides a man who made his way from the coast on foot, and who +is now doing good, honest work. The progress made by Mr. MacLennan, during +his ten months of charge, has been most creditable. He has literally +opened the mine, the works of which were begun by M. Dahse. He has +personally supervised the transport and erection of all the machinery; and +at present, in addition to the ordinary managerial routine, he has to act +as chief of each and every department. Owing to his brave exertions the +future of the Effuenta mine is very promising: it will teach those to come +'how to do it,' in contrast with another establishment which is the best +guide 'how _not_ to do it.' If the Board prove itself efficient, this +property will soon pay a dividend. But half-hearted measures will go far +to stultify the able and energetic work I found on the spot. [Footnote: +This forecast has been unexpectedly verified with the least possible +delay. Perfect communication has been established between the shafts and +levels; and the mine can now (October 1882) turn out 100 tons a day at +five shillings. But imperfect pumps have been sent out, and the result is +a highly regretable block. Of the value of the mine there can be no +doubt.] + +The northern extremity of the Tákwá ridge, whose length may be +nine to ten miles, remains unappropriated, as far as can be known. The +furthest concession has been made, I am told, to Mr. Creswick. South of +the section in question lies a property now in the hands of the late M. +Bonnat's executors: the grant was given to him as a wedding-present by his +friends, the chiefs. Report says that from this part of the lode, which is +riddled with native pits, came some of the specimens that floated the G. +C. M. Company. Succeeds in due order the African Gold Coast Company, +French and English, which was brought out in 1878. It is popularly and +locally known as the Tákwá (not 'Tarcquah') mine, from the large native +village which infests its grounds. I have described the Effuenta, its +southern neighbour. Beyond this again is a strip belonging to the +Franco-English Company; and, lastly, at the southern butt-end, divided by +a break from the main ridge, lies the 'Tamsoo-Mewoosoo mines of Wassaw.' +The latter has lately been 'companyed,' under the name of the 'Tacquah +Gold Mines Company,' by Dr. J. A. B. Horton and Mr. Ferdinand Fitzgerald, +of the famous 'African Times.' When its directors inform us that 'twenty +ounces of gold lately arrived from a neighbouring mine, the produce of +stamping of twenty-five tons of ore, similar to that of Tamsoo-Mewoosoo,' +they may not have been aware that the produce in question was worked from +the alluvial drift discovered, about the end May 1881, in the +north-western corner of the Swanzy estates. This drift has no connection +with the Tákwá ridge-lodes. + +After morning tea on March 28 I bade a temporary adieu to my most +hospitable host, and walked along the ridge-crest to the establishment of +the Franco-English or African Gold Coast Company. Here I found only one +person, Dr. Burke, an independent practitioner, who is allowed lodging, +but not board. M. Haillot, of Paris, formerly accountant and book-keeper, +was in temporary charge of this mine and of Abosu during Mr. Bowden's +absence. I shall give further detail on my return march. Passing through +the spirit-reeking Tákwá village, where nearly every hovel is a 'shebeen,' +I walked along the valley separating the ridge from its western neighbour, +Vinegar Hill, and in half an hour entered the huts belonging to the Gold +Coast Mining Company. [Footnote: These gentlemen are still (October 1882) +doing hard and successful work at the mines.] Here I breakfasted with the +brothers Gowan, who had been left in charge by Mr. Creswick. My notes on +this establishment must also be reserved for a future page. + +Twenty-five minutes' walking brought me to where the main road, a mere +bush-path, strikes across a gully separating two crests of the Tákwá +ridge. Then came a good stretch of level ground, composed of sand and +gravel of stained quartz, clothed with the ordinary second-growth. When +this ended I passed over the northern heads of two small _buttes_ which +lie unconformably; the direction of their main axes lies north-north-west, +whereas all their neighbours trend to the north-north-east. The climb was +followed by a second level, bounded on the left, or north, by the Abo Yáo +Hill, the _emplacement_ of the 'Mines d'Or d'Aboassu.' Two branch paths +lead up to it from the main line of road. Near the western is a place +chosen as a cemetery for Europeans; as usual it is neglected and overgrown +with bush. + +Presently I arrived at the village of Abosu, a walk of about two hours +from the Tákwá mine. Ten months ago it contained forty to fifty head of +negroes; now it may number 3,000, although the May emigration had begun, +when the workmen return to their homes, being unable to labour in the +flooded flats. There was the hum of a busy, buzzing crowd, sinking pits +and shafts, some in the very streets and outside their own doors. This +alluvial bed must be one of the richest in the country; and it is wholly +native property under King Angu, of Apinto. There is little to describe in +the village; every hut is a kind of store, where the most poisonous of +intoxicants, the stinkingest of pomatum, and the gaudiest of +pocket-handkerchiefs are offered as the prizes for striking gold. There +are also a few goldsmiths' shops, where the precious metal is adulterated +and converted to coarse, rude ornaments. The people are able 'fences,' and +powder, fuses, and mining-tools easily melt into strong waters. Hence +Abosu is a Paradise to the Fanti police and to the Haussa garrison of +Tákwá. + +I looked about Abosu to prospect the peculiarities of the place, where the +Sierra Leonite and the Cape Coast Anglo-nigger were conspicuous for +'cheek' and general offensiveness. These ignoble beings did not spare even +poor Nero; they blatantly wondered what business I had to bring such a big +brute in order to frighten the people. Resuming my way along the flat by a +winding path, I came upon a model bit of corduroying over a bad marsh, +crossed the bridge, and suddenly sighted Mr. F. F. Crocker's coffee-mill +stamping-battery. It lies at the south-western end of a _butte_, one of a +series disposed in parallel ranges and trending in the usual direction. +All have quartz-reefs buried in red clay, and are well wooded, with here +and there small clearings. The names are modern--Crocker's Reef to the +east, Sam's Reef, and so forth. + +Then I passed an admirably appointed saw-mill. At this distance from the +coast, where transport costs 24_l._ to 26_l._ a ton, carpenter's work must +be done upon the spot. A wide, clean road, metalled with gravel, and in +places bordered by pine-apples, led to store-houses of bamboo and thatch, +built on either side of the way. After walking from Effuenta seven and a +half geographical miles in three hours and forty-five minutes, I reached +the establishment known as Crockerville. It dates from 1879, and in 1880 +it forwarded its first remittance of 11_l._ 10_s._ to England. The village +was laid out under the superintendence of Mr. Sam, the ablest native +employé it has ever been my fortune to meet. He is the same who, when +District-commissioner of Axim, laid out the town and planted the +street-avenues. In conversation with me he bitterly derided the native +association formed at Cape Coast Castle for obtaining concessions and for +selling them to the benighted white man. He resolved not to put his money +in a business where all would be at loggerheads within six months unless +controlled by an European. + +The houses are bamboo on stone platforms. One block is occupied by the +owner, and a parallel building lodges Mr. Sam and his wife, the two being +connected by an open dining-hall. The kitchen and offices lie to the north +and east. Further west are quarters for European miners, and others again +for Mr. Turner, now acting manager, and his white clerk. Furthest removed +are the black quarters, the huts forming a street. + +Crockerville at present is decidedly short of hands. The number on the +books, all told, black and white, is only sixty-two: when the whole +property comes to be worked, divided and sub-divided, it will require +between a thousand and fifteen hundred. The hands are mostly country +people, including a few gangs employed to sink shafts. One gang lately +deserted, for the following reason. Two men were below charging the shots +from a heap of loose powder, whilst their friends overhead were quietly +smoking their pipes. A 'fire-'tick,' thrown across the shaft, burnt a +fellow's fingers, and he at once dropped it upon his brethren underground; +they were badly scorched, and none of the gang has been seen since. I +mention this accident as proving how difficult it is to manage the black +miner. The strictest regulations are issued to prevent the fatuous nigger +killing himself, but all in vain: he is worse, if possible, than his white +_confrčre_. If I had the direction all the powder-work should be done by +responsible Europeans. I would fire by electricity, the battery remaining +in the manager's hands, and no native should be trusted with explosives. + +Here I fell amongst old acquaintances, and was only too glad to remain +with them between Friday and Thursday. Mr. Turner gave me one of his +bed-rooms, and Mr. Crocker's sitting-room was always open by day. We +messed together, clerks, mechanics, and all, in the open dining-hall: this +is Mr. Crocker's plan, and I think it by far the best. The master's eye +preserves decorum, and his presence prevents unreasonable complaints about +rations. The French allow each European employé 4_s. _9_d._ a day for +food and hire of servants, and attempt most unfairly to profit by the sale +of provisions and wines. The consequence is that everything is disjointed +and uncomfortable: some starve themselves to save money; others overdrink +themselves because meat is scarce; and all complain that the sum which +would suffice for many is insufficient for one. + +The Swanzy establishment has set up an exceptionally light battery of +twelve stamps, made in sections for easier transport. Neither here nor in +any of the mines have stone-breakers or automatic feeders yet been +introduced: the stuff is all hand-spalled. One small 'Belleville' drives +the stamps, another works the Tangye pump, and a third turns the +saw-mills. I will notice a few differences between the Swanzy system and +that of Effuenta. The wooden framework of the stamp-mill is better than +iron. The cam-shaft here carries only single, not double cams, a decided +disadvantage: in order to strike the same number of blows per minute it +has to make double the number of revolutions. Moreover, by some unhappy +mistake, it is too far from its work, and the result is a succession of +sharp blows on the tappets, with injury to all the gear. On the other hand +proper fingers are fitted to the stamps: this is far better than +supporting them by a rough chock of wood. At Crockerville, as at Effuenta, +only six of the twelve stamps were working: there the pump was at fault; +here the blanket-tables had not been made wide enough. I could hardly +estimate the total amount of ore brought to grass, or its average yield: +specimens of white quartz, with threads, strings, and lobs of gold, have +been sent to England from Crocker's Reef. The best tailings are reserved +either for treatment on the spot or for reduction in England. The mine, as +regards present condition, is in the stage of prospecting upon a large and +liberal scale. The stamps are chiefly used to run through samples of from +50 to 100 tons taken from the various parts of the property: in this way +the most exact results can be obtained. During my visit they were +preparing to work a hundred tons from Aji Bipa, the fourth and furthest +_butte_ to the north-west. + +I visited this mound in company with Mr. Sam, who interpreted the name to +be that of the gambogefruit. We descended, as we had ascended, by the +stamping-battery, crossed the bridge, and then struck northwards, over the +third hillock, to No. 4. Unlike Crocker's Reef, Aji Bipa does not show +visible gold; its other peculiarities will best be explained by the report +I wrote on the spot. + +This property is situated near Crockerville and can always be easily +reached from that place. In fact, the southern boundary marches with the +northern limit of the Crockerville estate. The rich gold-bearing lode is +situated on the western slope of the hill, and can be seen in all the +three shafts which have been sunk. The formation of the hill seems in many +respects to correspond with the Lingula flags at and near Clogau, +Dolgelli, and Gogafau. This formation is practically the same as that of +the range of hills on which the concessions of the Gold Coast Mining +Company, of the African Gold Coast Mining Company, of the Effuenta +Company, of the Mines d'Or d'Aboassu (Abosu), and the Tamsu concessions +are situated, and also as that of Tebribi Hill; but each of the three +areas has its own marked features. In all the rocks are talcose and show a +sort of conglomerate of quartz pebbles, in some cases water-worn and in +others angular, bedded in a mixture of quartz and granite detritus. This +has in the three areas undergone varying degrees of pressure, and has been +upheaved at different angles. In some cases the pressure and heat have +been so great that the rock assumes a distinctly gneissic character. + +At Aji Bipa the lode runs N. 38ş E. (Mag.) in the centre shaft, and N. 40 +E. in the southern shaft, a sort of fault occurring in the centre shaft. +In the northern shaft I should put it at 38ş, but from the way in which +the neighbouring rock had cleaved it was difficult to get the strike +accurately. The dip is the same in all three shafts, viz. 82ş. The lode +being so near vertical, it can be clearly traced for the whole depth of +the shafts, and is very well defined. The hanging (eastern) wall is highly +coloured with iron oxides, and contains many quartz crystals which are +through-coloured with the same, and I do not think it at all unlikely that +garnets and other gems may be found in it. One or two minute crystals +showed a green colour, and might be tourmaline or emerald; but perhaps it +was only a surface-colour caused by the presence of copper. The foot wall +is very well marked by a strip of whitish yellow clay about an inch in +thickness. The rock on both sides of the lode is gold-bearing, and is +evidently, as well as the real lode, formed of the debris of old quartz +and granites. Talcose flakes are frequent, and in some places it seems to +be clearly gneiss. Although with a small plant it might not be profitable +to treat this, still with large and suitable machinery it may be made to +pay, and the trouble of separating the rich lode from the inferior stone +avoided. One remarkable trait in the lode is the manner in which it splits +into blocks and slabs, all the faces of the quartz pebbles being cloven in +precisely the same plane. + +The length of the concession along the line of lode is 2,780 feet, and +from the way in which the lode stands on the western slope of the hill, +and the dip being eastward, I am of opinion that if a drift were put +through the hill other and parallel lodes would be found. Of course this +can only be proved by experience. + +The thickness of the lode where I measured it varied from 22-1/2 to 25 +inches in the southern shaft; and although I saw one pinch in the +northern, and the fault in the centre one, it can easily be traced and +worked, and should prove most profitable. In the centre shaft it is 24 +inches, and in the northern 30 inches. + +A curious sort of black substance occurs close to the line of clay which +defines the under side of the lode, and may be remnants of some vegetable +material; but with the means at my disposal I will not give any decided +opinion. + +Over the rock which forms the main body of the hill lie the usual red clay +and oxidised quartz gravels, which, if treated by hydraulic mining, ought, +as it contains gold, to prove a paying stuff: moreover washing off the +surface-dirt would lay bare the rock and render all after-work easy and +simple. + +The alluvials in the bottoms should here prove unusually rich, and means +might be adopted by which they should be raised mechanically and then +flumed down again. + +Ample water supply exists both for hydraulic mining and reef-working; +there are good sites for all necessary machinery and building, and timber +as usual is to be had in any quantity that may be required. + +The question of transport is of course a most important one, and in the +present state of the roads and country very expensive; but from the +route-survey I have made I am convinced that a cheap and efficient service +to the mines of this and neighbouring districts would be easily organised, +and that instead of paying, as at present, the absurd price of 4_s_. or +5_s_. per ton per mile, it could be reduced to an average of from 4_d_. to +6_d_. The shafts now open are-- + South, 45 feet deep, 9 feet by 4 feet 9 inches. + Centre, 36 feet deep, 8 feet 6 inches by 4 feet 2 inches. + North, 45 feet deep, 8 feet by 5 feet 10 inches. + +This is both a most valuable and interesting piece of country to work, and +I hope that it may soon be provided with all necessary staff, plant and +machinery. + +Rich returns may be confidently expected, and under proper management +should prove a most paying business. + +The exploratory works now existing have been done in an honest and +businesslike manner, like all I have seen where Mr. Crocker and Mr. Turner +have worked; and the zeal and intelligence displayed by Mr. Sam could +scarcely be equalled and certainly not surpassed. + +I have not said anything about the quantity of gold to the ton, as the +experimental crushings at Crockerville will enable a much more accurate +idea to be formed than any I could make from the hand-washings I saw done. + +The boxes of specimens sealed by me are the result of blasts and +excavation done whilst I was on the spot. + +[Footnote: TEMPERATURE, ETC., AT CROCKERVILLE. +Date Thermometer Bar. Rainfall + Max. Min. Inches Ins. +April 1 91ş 73ş 29.55 + " 2 91 75 29.50 0.06 + " 3 93 74 29.50 + " 4 90 73 29.50 + " 5 96 76 29.40 + " 6 91 71 29.45 3.02 + " 7 80 70 29.50 + " 8 75 71 29.55 + " 9 93 72 29.50 0.01 + " 10 92 73 29.50 + " 11 93 74 29.45 0.02 + " 12 94 72 29.50 0.09 + " 13 95 74 29.50 0.50 + " 14 96 74 29.50 + " 15 96 76 29.50 + " 16 88 74 29.45 + " 17 92 73 29.55 + " 18 89 74 29.55 + " 19 85 74 29.55 0.03 + " 20 91 73 29.60 0.47 + " 21 88 74 29.55 0.01 + " 22 93 74 29.60 0.03 + " 23 92 73 29.55 + " 24 94 73 29.50 0.28 + " 25 93 73 29.50 0.18 + " 26 93 73 29.50 0.26 + " 27 93 74 29.55 0.27 + " 28 88 74 29.50 + " 29 94 74 29.45 + " 30 93 74 29.40 0.26 +May 1 90ş 73ş 29.45 0.40 + " 2 90 72 29.45 0.74 + + " 3 81 72 29.50 + " 4 86 73 29.50 0.03 + " 5 88 73 29.55 0.04 + " 6 83 71 29.55 + " 7 89 73 29.50 0.05 + " 8 90 74 29.50 + " 9 91 73 29.45 + " 10 80 71 29.50 0.95 + " 11 89 73 29.45 0.06 + " 12 89 74 29.50 + " 13 94 73 29.35 0.01 + " 14 84 74 29.50 + " 15 89 72 29.50 2.90 + " 16 85 73 29.50 + " 17 79 72 29.60 1.23 + " 18 85 74 29.50 + " 19 82 74 29.55 0.06 + " 20 87 74 29.50 + " 21 88 70 29.50 0.30 + " 22 84 70 29.60 0.92 + " 23 88 72 29.60 0.02 + " 24 87 73 29.60 + " 25 86 72 29.60 1.23 + " 26 82 71 29.60 1.23 + " 27 86 71 29.60 1.54 + " 28 85 73 29.50 + " 29 88 73 29.60 + " 30 82 73 29.55 0.56 + " 31 82 72 29.55 +June 1 82 72 29.60 0.18 + " 2 82 72 29.60 1.05 + " 3 83 74 29.55 0.16 + " 4 84 73 29.65 0.05 + " 5 84 73 29.60 0.14 + " 6 84 73 29.55 + " 7 82 72 29.50 0.16 + " 8 82 72 29.65 + " 9 85 73 29.55 + " 10 84 73 29.69 + " 11 80 73 29.55 + " 12 81 72 29.60 + " 13 81 68 29.60 0.02 + " 14 85 66 29.60 + " 15 86 68 29.65 + " 16 86 68 29.60 + " 17 87 69 29.60 + " 18 83 70 29.60 + " 19 82 71 29.60 0.70 + " 20 79 72 29.65 0.14 + " 21 82 72 29.60 + " 22 85 72 29.65 0.03 + " 23 82 73 29.50 + " 24 75 71 29.65 2.20 + " 25 80 71 29.70 + " 26 86 71 29.70 + " 27 80 71 29.65 0.34 + " 28 81 71 29.65 + " 29 81 71 29.60 0.14 + " 30 78 70 29.65 +July 1 79 67 29.70 + " 2 79 68 29.65 + " 3 80 71 29.70 + " 4 86 72 29.70 0.60 + " 5 79 72 29.70 0.40 + " 6 81 71 29.60 0.17 + " 7 79 72 29.70 + " 8 81 71 29.70 + " 9 80 70 29.75 0.06 + " 10 79 72 29.60 + " 11 80 71 29.60 0.50 + " 12 80 72 29.60 + " 13 78 70 29.60 + " 14 79 70 29.65 + " 15 80 69 29.70 0.40 + " 16 83 70 29.70 + " 17 81 71 29.60 0.40 + " 18 80 71 29.60 + " 19 79 71 29.65 + " 20 79 70 29.55 + " 21 80 70 29.60 + " 22 80 71 29.60 0.02 + " 23 81 71 29.65 + " 24 80 71 29.65 + " 25 79 71 29.70 3.30 + " 26 79 70 29.70 + " 27 80 70 29.70 + " 28 85 71 29.70 + " 29 81 71 29.65 + " 30 78 70 29.65 0.70 + " 31 79 70 29.65 +Aug. 1 78 69 29.65 + " 2 83 72 29.70 + " 3 82 72 29.65 0.56 + " 4 80 70 29.65 + " 5 82 72 29.60 + " 6 79 70 29.60 0.28 + " 7 81 70 29.60 + " 8 80 70 29.60 + " 9 81 70 29.65 + " 10 82 70 29.65 0.40 + " 11 82 70 29.65 0.60 + " 12 81 68 29.65 + " 13 81 67 29.60 + " 14 80 69 29.70 + " 15 83 71 29.65 + " 16 81 69 29.65 + " 17 90 70 29.70 + " 18 86 71 29.65 + " 19 81 70 29.65 + " 20 85 68 29.70 + " 21 83 70 29.70 + " 22 80 70 29.65 + " 23 81 73 29.70 + " 24 84 71 29.65 + " 25 86 70 29.70 + " 26 82 70 29.70 + " 27 84 71 29.65 0.02 + " 28 84 71 29.70 0.01 + " 29 85 72 29.70 0.02 + " 30 86 70 29.70 + " 31 85 71 29.65 +Sept. 1 84 72 29.65 + " 2 85 72 29.66 + " 3 87 72 29.65 0.01 + " 4 86 73 29.66 0.15 + " 5 85 72 29.70 + " 6 80 72 29.70 0.15 + " 7 85 72 29.70 + " 8 86 71 29.60 0.18 + " 9 86 72 29.60 1.00 + " 10 80 72 29.70 0.01 + " 11 85 72 29.70 0.01 + " 12 85 73 29.65 + " 13 77 72 29.65 0.50 + " 14 79 72 29.65 0.40 + " 15 83 72 29.65 0.17 + " 16 82 71 29.65 0.46 + " 17 78 70 29.70 0.07 + " 18 86 72 29.55 0.12 + " 19 78 72 29.70 1.14 + " 20 87 72 29.60 0.43 + " 21 78 71 29.66 0.02 + " 22 78 70 29.65 0.30 + " 23 85 71 29.60 0.03 + " 24 85 72 29.70 + " 25 87 72 29.60 0.03 + " 26 84 72 29.60 0.24 + " 27 91 73 29.50 + " 28 89 71 29.50 + " 29 89 71 29.55 0.65 + " 30 91 72 29.65 + + _Meteorological Register._ + + 1880 + Average Tem. per Diem Total Rainfall per Month +April 79.00 -- +May 78.40 8.27 +June 76.60 11.24 +July 74.79 3.44 +August 74.22 5.30 +Sept. 76.28 3.08 +Oct. 78.05 4.89 + +Highest temperature on May 21, 94ş (1880). + +Lowest temperature on July 6 and 7, 65ş. + +Highest rainfall in 24 hours on June 20, 3 25. + +Highest variation in 24 hours on May 2 and 3 94ş-68ş = 26ş. + +Lowest variation in 24 hours on May 14, 76ş-74ş= 20ş. + + + 1881 + Average Tem. per Diem Total Rainfall per Month +April 83.65 5.89 +May 77.67 11.21 +June 76.73 7.08 +July 75.32 6.65 +August 76.46 1.89 + +Highest temperature on April 5 and 14, 96ş (1881). + +Lowest temperature on June 14, 66ş. + +Highest rainfall in 24 hours on July 25, 3 30. + +Highest variation in 24 hours on April 14, 96ş-74ş = 22ş. + +Lowest variation in 24 hours on June 24, 75ş-71ş = 4ş.] + + + +CHAPTER XXIV. + +TO THE MINES OF ABOSU, OF THE 'GOLD COAST,' AND OF THE TÁKWÁ +('AFRICAN GOLD COAST') COMPANIES. + +On April 6 I reached the Mine d'Or d'Aboassu, this being my second visit. +The first, on the previous Sunday, had been more interesting in the point +of anthropological than of geological study. The day of rest had been +devoted to a general jollification by most of the whites, and the blacks +had ably followed suit. The best example was set by the doctor attached: +he was said to have emptied sixty-two bottles of cognac during his +twenty-three days of steamer-passage. But, brandy proving insufficient, he +had recourse to opium, chloral, and bromide of potassium, a pint and a +half of laudanum barely sufficing for the week. I need hardly say where +the abuse of stimulants and opiates lands a man, either in Western Africa +or in England. + +From the Abosu village and its abominations I turned sharp to the +north-west, and ascended the steep western flank of Abo Yáo, whose highest +point is 312 feet above sea-level. The distance from Crockerville is a +mile and three-quarters, or a mile in a straight line, and from Tákwá, +about six. M. Dahse increases the latter to nine miles, the difference of +latitude being three and a quarter miles, and of longitude four. My map +will be the first to correct these distances, which are exaggerated by the +native carriers to get more pay. + +The summit of Abo Yáo commands an extensive view to the north. Here the +range of vision is about sixteen miles over the greenest of second +growths; and the whole is dotted with _buttes_ of red clay, somewhat lower +than 'On the Stone' (_Abosu_). It is easy to see that here again we have +an ancient archipelago, like that which formerly fringed the shore of +Axim, but of older formation. In fact, I should not expect to find a true +coast before entering the grassy zone north of the great belt of forest. +Each hill must carry at least one core of auriferous reef. The intervening +valleys, gullies, and gulches, seldom more than a hundred feet above +ocean-level, have been warped up by gradual deposition from the north, and +are doubtless full of rich alluvium. This might be worked by +steam-navvies, and washed upon the largest possible scale; the result +would be excellent ground for plantations. + +I look upon Abosu as an eastern outlier of the greater Tákwá ridge. But +although the hill preserves the normal direction the reef lies almost at +right angles to it, crossing the upper end and striking from north 40ş +west to south 40ş east. I am unable to divine what caused this curious +dislocation. The gold matrix is still the Tákwá gneiss, rarely showing +visible metal. Possibly the present diggings have struck only a large +branch or a break. + +Here mining-operations have been extensive, and about 1,800 tons of rich +stuff have already been brought to bank. The diggings begin with an open +cut of 110 feet; this leads to a tunnel in the rock partly timbered, by +which the lode with a dip of 41ş is bisected. Eastward from the tunnel a +gallery has been driven 147 feet along the vein, and westwards there is a +similar passage of 202 feet. About 140 feet on either side of the tunnel +two rises, one 16, the other 12 feet long, are being driven up the slope +of the reef. On the hill-side above the tunnel a shaft 80 feet deep has +been sunk, but it has not struck the vein: for some peculiar reason the +bottom is made broader than the top; and the mining-captain has a shrewd +idea that, like the native pits of similar form, it may end by 'caving +in.' Again, a second tunnel has just been opened in the southern end of +the _butte_, the engineer hoping to find the main lode lying conformably, +or north with easting. + +A little above the northern foot of the Abo Yáo the native workmen are +employed in making a large platform, or terrace, for stamps and other +machinery; now it is about 150 × 40 yards. As yet there is no power. A +large open shed of timber-posts, with a roofing of corrugated iron, stands +ready to receive the expected saw-mill. The only actual industry is +digging. + +At Abosu the _personnel_ is lodged in bamboo-houses scattered over the +hill-side, and the settlement contrasts dismally with the orderly comfort +of Crockerville. M. Haillot, acting manager of Abosu and Tákwá, leads a +caravan-life between the two. Fortunately for him the distance is +inconsiderable. I here met Mr. Symonds, a Cornish miner, who has worked in +Mexico, and who speaks Spanish fluently, enabling him to converse with M. +Plisson. He was one of our fellow-passengers, and he rejoiced exceedingly +to see me. He and his youngster, Mr. Mitchell, who suffers from +chest-complaint, praised the prospects of the mine, but did not enjoy +their pay being cut for passage and the system of ration-money. Another +unwise plan adopted by the French Company is to stipulate upon twenty +working-days, each of ten hours per mensem, in default of which salaries +undergo proportional deduction. This makes the miner work even when he is +unfit for exertion. White labour, however, is confined to superintendence +and to laying out and building tunnels. A Swiss, M. Schneuvelly, acts as +general superintendent, and he is assisted by two French _ouvriers_. The +hands are chiefly Krumen. The style of working is decidedly 'loafy,' and +the pipe is touched at all hours and in all places. + +North of Abosu lies the Dahse concession, a square of 1,000 fathoms, to be +worked by an Anglo-German company. I know it only by hearsay and by seeing +it upon the owner's map. + +M. Haillot invited me to be his guest, and I spent my day in the mine. +Next morning (April 8) we retraced our steps towards Tákwá, halting by the +way at the northernmost establishment on the ridge, the 'Gold Coast Mining +Company (Limited).' This concession, an area of 1000 x 500 fathoms, on the +west of the hill-height, does not as yet show much progress; and the works +seem to have increased but little since last year. There are two shafts +and two tunnels to strike the lode. The ore brought to grass was not in +large quantities, although I had heard to the contrary. The stone is said +to be abnormally rich, yielding seven ounces of gold to the ton; but I did +not think it richer than its neighbours, and I suspect that it will have +to be rated at one-seventh. The manager's house, also on the west of the +hill, consists of one large room of plankage, raised on posts and +thatched. The brothers Gowan, who are working exceedingly hard, and Mr. +Kenyon, who is leaving for England, were the only white men I saw. The +hands are chiefly Kruboys and the artificers Sierra Leonites. Since Mr. +Creswick's departure for Europe some changes have been made. Mr. Growan, +the acting manager, has transferred the future works to a higher level, +and has fitted up a reduction-office where there is, at present, nothing +to reduce. Crucibles and chemicals are ranged round a long room with an +iron roof. The tenant has borrowed a mortar-box, two stamp-heads, shoes, +and dies, and has fitted them with wooden stems and cam-shafts. He +proposes to drive them by two-man power, in order to crush three tons of +ore per diem and to test a new patent amalgamator. + +I breakfasted with the scanty staff and then walked down the western +valley to the Tákwá establishment, the oldest of the new mining-industries +in the Protectorate. I place the African Gold Coast Company, by +calculation, in N. lat. 18ş 20' and W. long. (Gr.) 1ş 57' +40". It is therefore fifteen direct geographical miles from Tumento +instead of thirty; twenty-seven (not sixty) from Axim, and thirty-five +from Dixcove, formerly supposed to be the nearest port. This position will +make an important difference in sundry plans and projects which were made +under old and erroneous ideas of its topography. At present the cost of +transport from Tumento to Effuenta is 6_d._ for 10 lbs., 8_d._ to Tákwá, +and 10 _d._ to Abosu. + +The head of the valley shows a single stream, the Babeabárbawo or Tákwá +rivulet, rising close to the works of the Gold Coast Company. It is +swollen by small tributaries from either side; and, just below the +settlement, an eastern dam with a small sluice has been thrown across the +valley of the Franco-English company. As there is plenty of water in and +near the mine, they should cut at once this abominable dam, which forms a +pestilential swamp, the cess-pool of the neighbourhood. The Tákwá +settlement, a line of bamboo and swish huts well built enough, lies, like +a hamlet in Congo-land, along the winding road. It is bare of trees, but +here and there a shaft yawns before the doors. M. Dahse makes the +population before 1879 to have been 6,000 souls, and in 1881 about 3,000. +I should reduce the latter figure to 600, and propose for 1882, before the +May emigration, 1,500 to 1,600. The people are Coast-men and islanders of +every tribe, with a fair sprinkling of dissolute ruffians, 'white +blackmen,' from Sierra Leone and Akra, drunken Fanti policemen, and +plundering Haussa soldiers. The ex-manager of the Effuenta mine says, in +allusion to his early residence there, 'So wird Einem das Leben daselbst +zu einer wahren Hölle;' and he rightly describes the peculiar industries +of these true infernal regions as 'Schnappskneipen, Spielhöllen und +Schlimmeres.' Almost every house combines the pub. and the agapemone: all +the chief luxuries of the Coast-'factories' are there, and the 'blay' +(basket) of Sierra Leone comes out strong. Brilliant cottons and kerchiefs +hang from the normal line; there is pomatum for the lucky dandy and tallow +for the miner down in his luck; whilst gold-dust is conjured from pouch or +pocket by pipes and tobacco, needles and thread, beads, knives, and other +notions. + +The northern part of this veritable 'Nigger Digger's Delight' is now +comparatively deserted: some chief died there, and the people have crowded +into the main body of the settlement. The village of Kwábina Angu, King of +Eastern Apinto, is now joined to Tákwá. I could not distinguish the +'Palast' of King Kwámi Enimill, who rules western Wásá, and whose capital +is Akropong. + +M. Haillot had preceded me in a hammock, and welcomed me to his quarters. +He occupied one of the three or four raised plank-houses; another lodged +Dr. Burke, and a third M. Voltaire, Mr. Carlyon, another young Cornishman, +who came out with us, and sundry French _ouvriers_. A large bamboo-house +had been built for a general restaurant: it became a barrack during the +'Ashanti scare,' and now it is quite unused. Standing farther back are the +very respectable tenements of the same material, with broad verandahs, +occupied at times by Mr. Ex-missionary Dawson and family. The negro +quarters are mostly in the Tákwá village. + +The 'Father of the African Mines,' dating from 1878, lies on the northern +third of the celebrated Tákwá ridge, and its concession embraces an area +of 1000 x 2000 fathoms. The rich auriferous reef is the backbone of a long +narrow line of hill whose diameter ranges between 1,000 feet to 600 where +it is pinched. The lode strikes to the north-north-east with a dip of 47ş +west. The angle of underlay, I may remark, greatly varies in these Gold +Coast reefs; some are nearly vertical (82ş), others are moderately +inclined (20ş to 50ş), and others run almost flat. The richest part, not +including the broken-off ore, is from eighteen inches to two feet broad. +It is decidedly more than 'one to two hundred years old,' as reported home +by a scientific official on the spot. The 'coffins,' or abandoned native +diggings, must date from at least two centuries ago. The natives scraped +off the gold-bearing stone till the water drove them out. The formation is +upper Silurian or lower Devonian, a transition to gneiss, but not highly +metamorphic. No fossils have yet been found: if any exist they would be +microscopic. Where talcose it is bluish, and shows streaks of 'black +sand,' titaniferous iron. The grey sand washes to white. There are +pot-holes which have been filled with either a pudding or a breccia of +quartz. In places the gneiss has been so little changed by heat and +pressure that it forms arenaceous flags and shales. It suggests a deposit +in some ancient lagoon, alternately fresh and salt. A hard fissile slate +of purple colour is based upon the ground-rock of grey granite; there is +also a modern clay-slate, which lies unconformably to the older, and +through it the great veins of gneiss and quartz seem to pass. The alluvial +detritus, which fills up the valleys to their present level, is formed by +the diluvium of the hills: in parts these bottoms show strata, from one to +three feet thick, of water-rolled pebbles bedded in clay. Here and there +the couch must be a hundred feet deep, and the whole should be raised for +washing by machinery. These strata were apparently deposited in a lagoon +of more modern date. + +The gold is sometimes visible in the gneiss; and I have seen pieces whose +surface is dotted with yellow spots resembling pyrites. It is often in the +form of spangles called float-gold and flour-gold. Select specimens have +yielded upwards of eight ounces to the ton. If the blanketings and first +tailings be properly treated, it should afford an average of at least an +ounce and a half per ton. Treating a hundred tons a day gives a sum of +30,000 per annum; and, assuming 6_l_. of gold to the ton, we have a total +of 180,000_l_. The working of this section of the mine should not exceed +30,000_l_. a year, which leaves a net gain of 150,000_l_. + +The _Bergwerke_ consist of four tunnels driven into the lower part of the +western hill-side, further down than the bottom of the abandoned native +workings. They are eccentrically disposed in curves and other queer +figures. All abut upon galleries running in sections along the lode-line, +and intended ultimately to connect. The total length may be a thousand +feet. Being cut in the gneiss, they require no timbering; but the floors +are little raised above the level of the rivulet, and water percolates +through roofs and walls. The latest tunnel has been driven past the new +gallery, and has struck a second lode; this has never been worked by the +natives, and stoping to above the springs may be found advisable. +Ventilation is managed by means of the old abandoned native shafts. A very +large quantity of ore is brought to bank. I found it hard to form an +estimate, because it was in scattered heaps overgrown with vegetation; but +I should not be surprised if it amounted to 5,000 tons. This means that +want of proper machinery has resulted in a dead capital of from 20,000_l_. +to 30,000_l_. + +A space has been cleared on the level of the trams uniting the mouths of +the tunnel, and here will be placed the 'elephant-stamps' actually on +their way out. They have now two batteries, each of six head, worked by +the same shaft: the steam-engine, as usual, is the Belleville. The +material is bad; the gratings, on the levels of the dies, have been +smashed by the stones bombarding them, and the ill-constructed foundations +of native wood are eaten by white ants. Yet they have done duty for only +eighteen months. The sludge was treated in fancy amalgamators, especially +in one with a pan and revolving arms, probably evolved out of the inner +consciousness of some gentleman in Paris. The result was discharging +upwards of 1,500 lbs. of mercury into the valley below. A little amalgam +was obtained, and proved that the rock does contain gold--a fact perfectly +well known for centuries to the natives. + +The history of the 'African Gold Coast' Mine in the hands of +Franco-English shareholders has already been noticed. M. Bonnat preferred +reworking the old native diggings to the virgin reefs lying north and +south of them. Some of the latter can be worked for years without pumping; +on the others the plant will be expensive. But the Company, instead of +mining, has gone deeply into concession-mongering, and their grants are +scattered broadcast over the country. One of them, the 'Mankuma,' near +Aodua, the capital of Eastern Apinto, extends twenty-six miles, with a +depth of 500 yards on either bank of the Ancobra River above the mouth of +the Abonsá influent. These gigantic areas will give rise to many lawsuits, +and no man in the country has power to make such a grant. The ownership of +the land is vested in a 'squirearchy,' so to speak, and only the +proprietors have a right to sell or lease. When gold is worked the +'squire' takes his royalty from the miner, and he or his chiefs must in +turn pay tribute to the 'king.' Hence the money may pass through three or +four hands before reaching its final destination. + +These indiscriminate concessions will be very injurious to the future of +the Protectorate, and should be limited by law. At present the only use is +to sell them to syndicates and companies, and so to pay a fictitious +dividend to the _actionnaires_. Evidently such a process is rather on the +'bear and bull' system of the stock-market than legitimate mining. + +I was well acquainted with the late M. Bonnat, a bright, cheery little +Frenchman of great energy, some knowledge of the Fanti, or rather the +Ashanti, language, and perfect experience of the native character. Born at +a village near Macon, he began life as a cook on board a merchant ship; he +soon became agent to some small French trading firm, and then pushed his +way high up the unexplored Volta River. Here the Ashantis barred his +passage, and eventually took him prisoner as he attempted to cross their +limits; he was carried to Kumási, where he remained in confinement for +three years. When the war of 1873-1874 set him at liberty he passed +through Wásá to Europe, and by his local information, and that gathered in +captivity, he secured the public ear for the gold-mines. His later +proceedings are well known, and some of their unfortunate results are best +unrelated. + +I met M. Bonnat last in June 1881; he was then going up to Tákwá in +company with Messieurs Bowden and Macarthy, and I was canoeing down the +Ancobra on my way home. He was suffering severely from a carbuncular boil +on the thigh, which he refused to have properly opened. His death, which +occurred within a fortnight, is usually attributed to pleuro-pneumonia, +but I rather think it was due to blood-poisoning. He had been exposing +himself recklessly for some months, and two drenchings in the rain brought +him to his end; yet there are people who remember his visit to the +forbidden fetish-valley of Apatim. The father of the modern gold-mines, +the Frenchman who taught Englishmen how to work their own wealth, lies +buried at Tákwá; I did not see his tomb. + +The two French mines, Tákwá and Abosu, have at last agreed to join hands +and to become one. The capital has been fixed at 250,000_l_., and Paris +will be the head-quarters. Mr. Arthur Bowden, the manager, has been sent +for to, and has now returned from France: it is to be hoped that his +extensive experience will instil some practical spirit into the new +Directory. + + + +CHAPTER XXV. + +RETURN TO AXIM AND DEPARTURE FOR EUROPE. + +I awoke on Saturday, April 9, in bad condition, and during the afternoon +had my third attack of fever, the effect of the dam and its miasma. +Wanting change of air, and looking forward to Effuenta, I set off in my +hammock and found my friends. The tertian lasted me till Monday, Sunday +being an 'off-day;' and, as the Tuesday was wet and uncomfortable, I +delayed departure till Wednesday morning. My 'Warburg' had unfortunately +leaked out: the paper cover of the phial was perfect, but of the contents +only a little sediment remained. Treatment, therefore, was confined to +sulphate of quinine and a strychnine and arsenic pill; arseniate of +quinine would have been far better, but the excellent preparation is too +economical for the home-pharmist, and has failed to secure the favour of +the Coast-doctors. One of my friends has made himself almost fever-proof +by the liberal use of arsenic; but I can hardly recommend it, as the +result must be corrected by an equally liberal use of Allan's anti-fat. +Burton, who has studied its use amongst the Styrian arsenic-eaters, denies +that this is the common effect: he found that it makes the mountaineer +preserve his condition, wind and complexion, arms him against ague, and +adds generally to his health. He is still doubtful, however, whether it +shortens or prolongs life. + +On Wednesday, April 12, I left Effuenta after morning tea. My hospitable +host had nearly seen the last of his stores, to which he had made me so +cordially welcome; and there were no signs of fresh supplies, although +they had long been due. This is hardly fair treatment for the hard-working +employé: let the Company look to it. With a certain tightening of the +heart I made over my canine friend, Nero, to Dr. Roulston. He had lost all +those bad habits which neglected education had engrafted upon the heat of +youth. He now began to show more fondness for sport than for +sheep-worrying; and he retrieved one bird, carrying it with the utmost +delicacy of mouth. + +I set out on foot for Vinegar Hill, and found that the steep eastern +ascent from the Tákwá ridge had been provided with a series of cut steps +by Mr. Commissioner: in these lands, as elsewhere, new brooms sweep clean; +but they are very easily worn out. This place has been for years the +'black beast' of travellers, especially in rainy weather, when the rapid +incline becomes so slippery that even the most sure-footed slither and +slide. + +After crossing the Abonsá Hill I took to my hammock and was carried +through rain, and a very devilry of weather, into the Abonsá village. The +whole path was shockingly bad and muddy. Once more I became a lodger of +Mr. Crocker's; his house, being as usual far the best, gave us good +shelter for the night. + +Next morning (7.30) we set out down the Abonsá stream in a small canoe +belonging to Mr. MacLennan. The natives made the usual difficulties; the +craft (which was quite sound) could not float, and amongst other things +she had no paddles: for this, however, I had provided by making my men cut +them last evening. Almost immediately after leaving this head of +navigation, barred above by a reef and a fall, we saw that eternal +mangrove. Presently the Aunábé creek broke the line of the right bank. Our +course was as usual exceedingly tortuous, turning to every quadrant of the +compass; and, during the last fortnight, the water-level had risen four +feet. The formation of the trough is that of the Ancobra, and the bed +bristles with rocks. In a distance of seven miles and a half by course +there were four small breaks, and one serious rapid about a hundred yards +long, where the decline exceeded five feet. Here the men had to get +overboard and to ease the canoe down the swirling waters, which dashed +heavily on the rocks. The snags were even thicker than on the upper +Ancobra, and were far more dangerous than on the St. John's. In places the +mangrove fallen from the banks had taken root in the river-bed. In fact, +unless some exertion be soon made, even the present insufficient channel +will be blocked up. + +At the Abonsá _embouchure_ Mr. Wyatt's map, copied from M. Dahse, shows an +island backed by a ridge running nearly east-west. I found no river-holm, +and only a small broadening of the Ancobra to about double its usual +breadth. The banks at the sharp angle of junction are, however, low; and, +perhaps, my predecessor saw them when flooded. The Mankuma Hill, on the +right bank, belonging to the Franco-English Company, is somewhat taller +than its neighbours: as usual in this silted-up archipelago, it trends +from the north-east to the south-west. + +I had already shot the Ancobra River when paddling up, and was not over +lucky when coming down. The big kingfisher did not put in an appearance, +and the sun-birds equally failed me: the smallest item of my collection +measures two and a quarter inches, and is robed in blue, crimson, and +sulphur. I was fortunate enough to bring home four specimens of a rare +spur-plover (_Lobivanellus albiceps_): they are now in Mr. Sharp's +department of the British Museum. I killed a few little snakes and one +large green tree-snake; two crocodiles, both lost in the river, and an +iguana, which found its way into the spirit-cask. A tzetze-fly (_Glossina +morsitans_) was captured in Effuenta House, curiously deserting its usual +habit of jungle-life in preference to a home on clear ground: its +dagger-like proboscis, in the grooved sheath with a ganglion of muscles at +the base, assimilated it to the dreaded and ferocious cattle-scourge which +extends from Zanzibar to the Tanganyika Lake and from Kilwa (Quiloa) to +the Transvaal. My kind friend and hospitable host Dr. (now Sir) John Kirk, +who did the geography and natural history for the lamentable Zambeze +expedition, met it close to the Victoria Falls. Burton also sent home a +specimen from the Gold Coast east of Accra. + +Mr. MacLennan gave me sundry beetles, but insisted on retaining one which +is the largest I ever saw. The hunting-dog must scour the bush in packs, +for the voice is exactly that of hounds. The laugh of the hyćna and the +scream of the buzzard are commonly heard. The track of a 'bush-cow' once +crossed my path: the halves of the spoor were some five inches long by +three wide, and the hoofs knuckled backwards so as to show false hoofs of +almost equal size. I was unable to procure for Dr. Günther a specimen of +the 'bush-dog,' as the Kruboys call it: last year I was bringing home a +live one in the s.s. _Nubia_; but one day the fellow in charge reported +that it was dead and had been thrown overboard. I hold it to be a tailless +lemur, the _galago_ of the East Coast. The French name is _orson_, the +popular idea being that it is an ursine. The Fanti peoples, whose +'folk-lore' is extensive, and who have some tale about every bird, beast, +and fish, thus account for the loud cries which we heard at night in every +'bush.' King Leo, having lost his mother, commanded by proclamation all +his subjects to attend her funeral, and none failed save Orson. One +evening his Feline Majesty, when going his rounds, found the delinquent +upon the ground, and roughly demanded the reason why. Orson, shuffling +towards the nearest tree, pleaded in all humility, 'O King, is thy beloved +parent really deceased? I never heard of it. I am so sorry; I would never +have failed to show the respect due to the royal house.' When he had +climbed the foot of the tree his tone began to alter. 'But, Sire, if thy +Majesty hath lost a mother, I see no cause compelling me to attend her +funeral.' And when quite safe the change was notable. 'Bother the old +woman! very glad she is dead, and may her grave be defiled!' These people +know the stuff of which courtiers are made. + +My collection of specimens from the mines and the river-beds filled a +dozen cases. The butterflies, of which we collected a large number, were +all spoilt by the moth for want of camphor. 'Insect-powder' had been our +only preservative. I had also a thirty-gallon cask of plants preserved in +spirits, two boxes well stuffed, a large case of orchids, and a raceme of +the bamboo-palm (_Raphia vinifera_), whose use has still to be found. The +animals, including insects in tubes, filled nearly two kegs and three +bottles, and I had two small cases of stuffed birds, the handiwork of Mr. +Dawson. + +Of stone-implements I was lucky enough to secure thirty-six, and made over +four of them to my friend Professor Prestwich. They are found everywhere +throughout the country, but I saw no place of manufacture except those +noted near Axim. Mr. Sam, of Tumento, promised to forward many others to +England. The native women search for and find them not only near the beds +of streams, but also about the alluvial diggings. Nearly all are shaped +like the iron axe or adze of Urúa, in Central Africa, a long narrow blade +with rounded top and wedge-shaped edge. This tool is either used in the +hand like a chisel, or inserted into a conical hole burnt through a +tree-branch, and the shape of the aperture makes every blow tighten the +hold. The people mount it in two ways, either as an axe in line with, or +as an adze at a right angle to, the helve. + +At Akankon I obtained from Mr. Amondsen a stone-implement of novel shape, +not seen by me elsewhere. A bit of the usual close-grained trap had been +cut into a parallelopiped seven and a half inches long with a flat head +one inch and a half in diameter and a bevel-edge of two inches and +one-third along the slope. This part had been chipped ready for grinding, +and the article was evidently unfinished; one side still wanted polishing, +and the part opposite the bevel showed signs of tapering, as if a point +instead of an edge had been intended. At Axim I split off by gads and +wedges a large slice of the grooved rocks described by Burton; it came +home with me, and is now lodged in the British Museum. + +The rest of my story is told in a few words. I canoed safely down the +Ancobra River, and reached Axim on April 14. This return was made sad and +solitary by the absence of my canine friend, Nero. + +A week soon passed away at the port of the Gold-region. Mr. Grant +presently returned from his excursion to the west. He showed me fine +specimens of gold collected at Newtown, the English frontier-settlement +immediately east of French Assini. I had also warned him to look out for, +and he succeeded in finding, beds of bitumen permeated with petroleum: +this material will prove valuable for fuel and for asphalting, if not for +sale. My time was wholly taken up with papering and repacking my +collection, which had now assumed formidable proportions, and time fled +the faster as the days were occupied in also fighting an impertinent +attack of ague and fever. + +On April 24 the B. and A. s.s. _Loanda_ (Captain Brown) anchored in the +roads. Mr. Grant accompanied me on board, and showed himself useful and +energetic as usual. At Cape Palmas we shipped the Honourable Doctor and +Professor Blyden. He pointed out to me certain hillocks on the coast about +Grand Bassá, where he said gold had lately been found. The lay of the land +and the strike and shape of the eminences reminded me strongly of those I +had left behind me. The 'Secretary of the Interior,' who had been +compelled to leave his college, assured me that if wiser counsels prevail +Liberia will abandon her old Japanese policy of exclusion, and will open +her ports to European capital and enterprise. At Sierra Leone I called +upon Governor Havelock, who was recovering from the accident of a +dislocated shoulder. Both he and the 'Governess' were in the best of +health. At Madeira, on May 12, my companion Burton joined us, and we had a +week of dull passage to Liverpool. As we left on Friday and carried a +reverend gentleman on board, the cranky old craft was sorely tossed about +for two successive days, and we were delayed off the Liverpool bar, +arriving on the 20th instead of the 18th of May, 1882. + + + +CONCLUSION. + +The journey and the voyage ended, as such things should do, with a dinner +of welcome at the Adelphi, given to us by our hospitable friend Mr. James +Irvine. And here we had the first opportunity of delivering the message +which we had brought home from the Golden Land. + + + + +APPENDIX I + +§1. THE ASHANTI SCARE. + +That fears of an Ashanti attack upon the mines of the Gold Coast +Protectorate are rather fanciful than factual we may learn from the +details of the Blue Book 'Gold Coast, 1881.' The 'threatened Ashanti +invasion,' popularly termed the 'Ashanti scare,' did abundant good by +showing up the weakness of that once powerful despotism, and the +superiority in numbers and in equipment of the coastlanders over the +inlanders. It is true that there are tribes, like the Awunahs of the +Volta, and villages, like Béin in Apollonia, which still sympathise with +our old enemy. But only the grossest political mismanagement, like that +which in 1876 abandoned our ally, the King of Juabin, to the tender +mercies of his Ashanti foeman, aided by the unwisest economy, which +starves everything to death save the treasure-chest, will ever bring about +a general movement against us. + +On December 1, 1880, died, to the general regret of native and stranger, +Mr. Ussher, Governor and Commander-in-Chief of the Gold Coast; a veteran +in the tropics and an ex-commissariat officer, whose political service +dated from 1861. In British India a change of rulers is always supposed to +offer a favourable opportunity for 'doing something,' often in the shape +of a revolt or a campaign. The same proved to be the case in West Africa, +where the Ashanti is officially described as 'crafty, persistent, +mendacious, and treacherous.' + +It may easily be imagined that after the English victories at Amoaful and +Ordusu in 1873-74 the African despotism sighed for _la revanche_. The +Treaty of Fománá, concluded (February 13), after the capture (February 4) +and the firing (February 6) of Kumasi, between Sir Garnet Wolseley and the +representative of the King, Kofi Kalkali, or Kerrikerri, subsequently +dethroned, stripped her of her principal dependencies--lopped off, in +fact, her four limbs. These were the ever-hostile province of Denkira, +auriferous Akim, Adansi, and lastly Assin, now part of our Protectorate. +The measure only renewed the tripartite treaty of April 27, 1831, when +King Kwáko Dúa, in consideration of free access to the seaboard, and in +friendship with the unfortunate and ill-treated Governor (George) Maclean, +'renounced all right or title to any tribute, or homage, from the Kings of +Denkira, Assin, and others formerly his subjects.' But _nulla fronti +fides_ is the rule of the hideous little negro despotism, which, in 1853, +again invaded the coveted lands on its southern frontier, Assin. + +The treaty of 1874, moreover, compelled Ashanti formally to renounce all +pretensions to sovereignty over Elmina and the tribes formerly in +connection with the Dutch Government. It vetoed her raids and forays upon +neighbouring peoples; like Dahome she had her annual slave-hunts and the +captives were sold for gold-dust to the inner tribes. The young officers +who replaced the veterans of the war would naturally desire, in Kafir +parlance, to 'wash their spears.' Nor are they satisfied with the defeats +sustained by their sires. 'I believe,' wrote Winwood Reade, 'that Sir +Garnet Wolseley attained the main object of the expedition, namely, the +securing of the Protectorate from periodical invasion. Yet still I wish +that the success had been more definite and complete.' The wish is echoed +by most people on the coast; and the natives still say, 'White man he go +up Kumasi, he whip black boy, and then he run away.' + +It is regretable that the Commander-in-Chief, if he could not occupy +Kumasi himself, did not leave Sir John H. Glover in charge, and especially +that he did not destroy the Bantama (royal place of human sacrifice), +[Footnote: Sir Garnet Wolseley's admirable conduct of the Egyptian +campaign, where he showed all the qualities which make up the sum of +'generalship,' have wiped out the memory of his failures in Ashanti and +Kafir-land. Better still, he has proved that the British soldier can +still fight, a fact upon which the disgraceful Zulu campaign had cast +considerable doubt. But the public ignores a truth known to every +professional. Under an incompetent or unlucky commander all but the best +men will run: the worst will allow themselves to be led or driven to +victory by one they trust. Compare the Egyptian troops under old Ibrahim +Pasta, and under Arabi, the Fe-lah-Pasha.] or at least remove from it the +skull of Sir Charles Macarthy. [Footnote: Captain Brackenbury throws doubt +upon the skull being preserved in the Bantama; but his book is mainly +apologetic, and we may ask, If the cherished relic be not there, where is +it? The native legend runs thus: 'And they took him (_i.e._ Macarthy) and +cut off his head, and brought it to their camp and removed the brains; but +the skull, which was left, they filled it with gold, and they roasted the +whole body and they carried it to Ashanti.... And the head, which they +bore to Ashanti, has become their "fetish," which they worship till this +day.'--Native account of Macarthy's death, Zimmermann's _Grammar of the +Accra or Ga Language_, Stuttgart, 1858.] And yet we now learn that the +campaign did good work. Captain Lonsdale, who has spent some time in +Kumasi, reports that the Caboceers have built huts instead of repairing +their 'palaces.' Moreover, he declares that the story of sacrificing girls +to mix their blood with house-swish is a pure fabrication; the Ashantis +would no longer dare to do anything so offensive to the conqueror. + +Last on the list of solid Ashanti grievances is her exclusion from the +seaboard. Unknown to history before A.D. 1700, the Despotism first invaded +the Coast in 1807, when King Osai Tutu Kwámina pretended a wish to recover +the fugitive chiefs Chibbu and Aputai. These attacks succeeded one another +at intervals of ten years, say the Fantis. The main object was to secure a +port on the coast, where the inlanders could deal directly with the white +man, and could thus escape the unconscionable pillaging, often fifty per +cent. and more, of the Fanti middleman. This feeling is not, indeed, +unknown to Europe: witness Montenegro. I see no reason why the people +should not have an 'Ashantimile' at the Volta mouth; and I shall presently +return to this subject. + +Hardly was Governor Ussher buried than troubles began. Mr. Edmund Watt, a +young District-commissioner at Cape Coast Castle, officially reported to +Lieutenant-Governor W. B. Griffith, subsequently Administrator of Lagos, +that Opoku, 'King' of Bekwa (Becquah), had used language tending to a +breach of the peace. This commander-in-Chief of the Ashanti forces in +1873-74 had publicly sworn in his sober senses at Kumasi, and in presence +of the new king, Kwámina Osai Mensah, that he would perforce reduce +Adansi, the hill-country held to be the southern boundary of Ashanti-land. +Such a campaign would have been an infraction of treaty, or at least a +breach of faith: although the province is not under the protection of the +Colonial Government, King Kofi Kalkali [Footnote: This ruler succeeded his +father, King Kwáko Dúa, in 1868; and his compulsory abdication is +considered to have been an ill-advised measure.] had promised to respect +its independence and to leave it unmolested. + +Lieutenant-Governor Griffith lost no time in forwarding the report to the +Colonial Office, adding sundry disquieting rumours which supported his +suspicions. Missionaries and merchants had observed that certain +'messengers,' or envoys, sent from Kumasi to acknowledge the presents of +the late Governor Ussher, were lingering without apparent reason about +Cape Coast Castle, after being formally dismissed. Moreover, their +residing in the house of 'Prince Ansah,' a personage not famous for plain +dealing, boded no good. + +A new complication presently arose. Prince Owusu, nephew of the King and +heir to the doughty Gyáman kingdom, fled from Kumasi to the Protectorate, +and reached Elmina on January 18. He appeared in great fear, and declared +that a son of the chief Amankwá Kwomá and three 'court-criers,' or +official heralds, were coming down to the coast on a solemn mission to +demand his extradition. They carried, he said, not the peaceful cane with +the gold or silver head, but the mysterious 'Gold Axe.' Opinions at once +differed as to the import and object of this absurd implement. According +to some its mission portended war, and it had preceded the campaigns of +1863 and 1873. Others declared that it signified a serious 'palaver,' +being a strong hint that the King would cut through and down every +obstacle. Strange to say, the first Ashanti messengers were never called +upon to explain before the public what the 'Gold Axe' really did mean. + +The Colonial Office acted with spirit and wholesome vigour. It was urged +on by Mr. Griffith, whose energetic reports certainly saved the +Protectorate grave troubles. He has thereby incurred much blame, ridicule, +and obloquy; nor has he received due credit from those under whom he +served. + +The newly-appointed Governor and Commander-in-Chief of the Gold Coast, Sir +Samuel Rowe, at once ordered out to relieve Mr. Griffith, left England in +mid-February. He was accompanied by a staff of seven officers temporarily +employed. Reinforcements were hurried from Sierra Leone and the West +Indies. The Admiralty was applied to for the reunion of cruisers upon the +Gold Coast waters. Estimates of native allies were drawn up, showing that +20,000 half-armed men could be brought into the field against the 30,000 +of Ashanti. The loyal and powerful chief Kwámina Blay, of Atábo, in +Amrehía, or Western Apollonia, offered 6,000 muskets, and an additional +1,000 hands if the Government would supply arms and ammunition. + +On January 19 the ambassador with the 'Gold Axe' presented himself at +Elmina. He was accompanied by Saibi Enkwiá, who had signed the treaty at +Fománá, a village in Assin, between Kumasi and the Bosom Prah River. The +envoy formally demanded possession of Prince Owusu and of one Amangkrá, an +Ashanti trader who had aided him to escape. Saibi Enkwiá added by way of +threat, 'The King said, if the Governor would not order the return of +Owusu to Kumasi, he would attack the Assins.' He further explained that +these Assins were the people who always caused 'palavers' between the +Ashantis and the Protectorate, to which they belonged. + +Naturally the ignominious demand was refused. The messengers left for +Kumasi, and Lieutenant-Governor Griffith telegraphed from Madeira to +England (January 25), 'War imminent with Ashanti.' It was considered +suspicious that all the inlanders were disappearing from the coast. This +was afterwards explained: they were flocking north for the 'native +Christmas,' the Yam-custom, or great festival of the year. + +Our preparations were pushed forward the more energetically as time +appeared to be tight. The Ashantis were buying up all the weapons they +could find when the sale of arms, ammunition, and salt was prohibited. +Detachments were despatched to the Mansu and Prahsu stations; the latter +is upon the Bosom (Abosom, or Sacred) Prah, the frontier between Ashanti +and the Protectorate, to cross which is to 'pass the Rubicon.' Here, as at +other main fords and ferries, defensive works were laid out. Arrangements +were made for holding nine out of the eighteen forts, abandoning the rest; +and Accra was strengthened as the central place. The 'companies,' or +'native levies,' who, with a suspicious unanimity, applied for guns and +gunpowder, lead and flints, were urged to the 'duty of defence.' Five +cruisers, under Commander (now Captain, R.N.) J. W. Brackenbury, were +stationed off the three chief castles, Elmina, Cape Coast, and Anamabo, +and the naval contingent was drilled daily on shore. The Haussa +constabulary was reinforced. The First West India Regiment sent down men +from Sierra Leone, and the Second 500 rank and file from Barbadoes. In +fact, such ardour was shown that the Ashantis, scared out of their +intentions of scaring, began to fear another English invasion. 'The white +men intend to take Kumasi again!' they said; and perhaps the reflection +that 48,000 ounces of gold were still due to us suggested a motive. They +had been making ready for offence; now they prepared for defence. + +About mid-February the 'situation' notably changed. Messieurs Buck and +Huppenbauer, two German missionaries who were making a 'preaching-tour,' +reported from Kumasi that King Mensah was afraid of war, and that his +kingdom was 'on the point to go asunder.' The despot, with African +wiliness, at once threw the blame of threatening Assin upon his confidant, +Saibi Enkwiá. No one believed that an Ashantiman would thus expose himself +to certain death; but the explanation served for an excuse. The King also +asserted that his 'Gold Axe' meant simply nothing. Thereupon the officials +of the Protectorate began looking forward to an ample apology, and to a +fine of gold-dust for the disturbing of their quiet days. In fact, they +foresaw 'peace with honour.' + +Governor Sir Samuel Rowe, with his usual good fortune, landed at Elmina on +March 9, exactly the right time. The attempt to intimidate had ignobly +failed, and had recoiled upon the attempter. King Mensah, in order to +remove all suspicions of intending a campaign, had resolved to send +coastwards the most important and ceremonious mission of the age. It was +to conclude a kind of _Paix des Dames_. Queen Kokofu had threatened that +in case of hostilities she would go over to the British. The Queen-mother, +a power in the country, which has often kept the peace for it and plunged +it into war, threatened to take her own life--and here such threats are +always followed by action. In fact, the peace-party had utterly overthrown +the war-party. + +The mission left Kumasi in May. It was headed by Prince Bwáki, step-father +to the two royal brothers, Kofi Kalkali and Kwábina Osai Mensah, and the +number as well as the high rank of the retinue made it remarkable. At +Prahsu, where the envoys were met by Governor Rowe, a preliminary +conversation took place. Despite the usual African and barbarian fencing +and foiling, the Englishman carried the day; the message must be delivered +with all publicity and proper ceremony in the old 'palaver-hall' of +historic Elmina Castle. + +A conclusive interview took place on May 30. Prince Bwáki explained that +'mistakes had been made, but that the mistakes had not been alone those of +his king and son-in-law.' He declared that the messenger, Saibi Enkwiá, +had exceeded his powers in threatening Assin. The King, he said, had sworn +by 'God and earth,' that is, by the 'spirits' above and by the ghosts +below, that he had sent no such message. At the same time the King +confessed being partly to blame, as the message had been delivered by his +own servant. In the matter of the 'Gold Axe,' however, the mistake was the +mistake of the Lieutenant-Governor (Griffith). + +The Prince further explained that Ashanti has two symbols of war, a +peculiar sword and a certain cap; whereas the 'Gold Axe' being 'fetish' +and endowed with some magical and mysterious power, is never sent on a +hostile errand. He offered, in the King's name, as further evidence of +friendly feeling, to surrender the 'so-called Golden Axe,' which important +symbol of Ashanti power had been forwarded from head-quarters with an +especial mission. It was delivered on the express understanding that it +should be despatched to England for the acceptance of H.B. Majesty, and +not be kept upon the coast, exposed to the ribaldry of the hostile Fantis. +The weapon, said Prince Bwáki, is so old that no one knows its origin, and +it is held so precious that in processions it precedes the Great Royal +Stool, or throne, of Ashanti. The leopard-skin, bound with gold upon the +handle, symbolises courage in the field; the gold is wealth, and the iron +is strength. + +Finally, the unhappy 'Gold Axe,' after being publicly paraded upon a +velvet cushion through the streets of Elmina, was entrusted to Captain +Knapp Barrow, who returned to England by the next steamer. It was duly +presented, and found its way to the South Kensington Museum, after faring +very badly at the hands of the 'society journals' and other members of the +fourth estate. [Footnote: For instance: 'The gold axe of King Koffee of +Ashantee, lately sent, for an unexplained reason, to the Queen, is +described as a triangular blade of iron, apparently out from a piece of +boiler-plate, roughly stuck into a clumsy handle of African oak. The +handle is covered with leopard-skin, part of which, immediately above the +blade, is deeply soiled, apparently with blood. Bands of thin gold, +enriched with uncouth chevrons and lunettes _en repoussé_, are placed +round the handle. The sheath of the blade, which is of tiger (leopard) +skin, accompanies this hideous implement, and attached to it is the sole +element which has anything like artistic merit. This is a nondescript +object of beaten gold, in shape something like a large cockle-shell with +curved horns extending from the hinge, and not inelegantly decorated with +lines and punctures, _en repoussé_ and open work of quasi-scrolls.'] +Needless to say it was an utter impostor. The real Golden Axe is great +'fetish,' and never leaves either Kumasi or, indeed, the presence of the +King. + +The ceremony of delivering the message in the palaver-hall was +satisfactory. Prince Bwáki grasped the knees of Governor Rowe, the +official sign of kneeling. He expressed the devotion of his liege lord to +the Majesty of England; and finally he offered to pay down at once two +thousand ounces of gold in proof of Ashantian sincerity. All these +transactions were duly recorded; the promises in the form of a bond. + +The play was now played out; cruisers and troops dispersed, and golden +Peace reigned once more supreme. Prince Owusu, a drunken, dissolute +Eupatrid, who had caused the flutter, when ordered on board a man-of-war +for transportation to a place of safety, relieved the Gold Coast from +further trouble. He was found hanging in the 'bush' behind Elmina Castle. +Most men supposed it to be a case of suicide; a few of course surmised +that he had been kidnapped and murdered by orders from Kumasi. + +Since that time to the present day our Protectorate has been free from +'scare.' The affair, as it happened, did abundant good by banishing all +fear for the safety of the Wásá (Wassaw) diggings. During the worst times +not a single English employé of the mines had left his post to take refuge +in the Axim fort. This does them honour, as some of the establishments lay +within handy distance of the ferocious black barbarians. + +The native chiefs, especially 'King Blay,' proved themselves able and +willing to aid us in whatever difficulties might occur. The kingdom of +Gyáman further showed that it can hold its own against shorn Ashanti, or +rather that it is becoming the more powerful of the two. The utter failure +of the scare is an earnest that, under normal circumstances, while King +Mensah, a middle-aged man, occupies the 'stool,' we shall hear no more of +'threatened Ashanti invasions.' + +But the true way to pacify the despotism is to allow Ashanti to 'make a +beach'--in other words, to establish a port. This measure I have supported +for the last score of years, but to very little purpose. The lines of +objection are two. The first is in the mercantile. As all the world knows, +commercial interests are sure to be supported against almost any other in +a reformed House of Commons; and, in the long run, they gain the day. The +Coast-tribes under our protection are mere brokers and go-betweens, backed +up and supported by the wholesale merchant, because he prefers _quieta non +movere_, and he fears lest the change be from good to bad. I, on the other +hand, contend that both our commerce and customs would gain, in quantity +as well as in quality, by direct dealings with the peoples of the +interior. The second, or sentimental, line belongs to certain newspapers; +and even _their_ intelligence can hardly believe the _ad captandum_ +farrago which they indite. The favourite 'bunkum' is about 'baring the +Christian negro's throat to the Ashanti knife.' But the Fantis and other +Coast-tribes were originally as murderous and bloodthirsty in their +battles and religious rites as their northern neighbours: if there be any +improvement it is wholly due to the presence and the pressure, physical as +well as moral, of Europeans--of Christians, if you like. Even Whydah is +not blood-stained like Agbóme, because it has been occupied by a few +slavers, white and brown. Why, then, should the Ashantis be refused the +opportunity and the means of amendment? Ten years' experience in Africa +teaches me that they would be as easily reformed as the maritime peoples; +and it is evident that the sentimentalist, if he added honesty and common +sense to the higher quality, should be the first to advocate the trial. + +But I would not allow the Ashantis to hold a harbour anywhere near Elmina. +They should have their 'mile' and beach east of the Volta River, where +they would soon effect a lodgment, despite all the opposition of their +sanguinary friends and our ferocious enemies the Awunah and the Krepi +(Crepee) savages. + +I will end this paper with a short notice of the kingdom of Gyáman, +generally written Gaman and too often pronounced 'Gammon.' Its strength +and vigour are clearly increasing; it is one of the richest of +gold-fields, and it lies directly upon the route to the interior. Of late +years it has almost faded from the map, but it is described at full length +in the pages of Barbot (1700) and Bosman (1727), of Bowdich (1818), and of +Dupuis (1824). They assign to it for limits Mandenga-land to the north and +west; to the south, Aowin and Bassam, and the Tando or eastern fork of the +Assini to the east. This Tando, which some moderns have represented as an +independent stream, divides it from Ashanti-land, lying to the south and +the south-east. Dupuis places the old capital, Bontuko, whence the Gyámans +were formerly called 'Bontukos,' eight stages north-west of Kumasi; and +the new capital, Huraboh, five marches beyond Bontuko. The country, level +and grassy, begins the region north of the great forest-zone which +subtends the maritime mangrove swamps. It breeds horses and can command +Moslem allies, equestrian races feared by the Ashantis. + +The Gyámans, according to their tradition, migrated, or rather were +driven, southwards from their northern homes. This was also, as I have +said, the case with the Fantis and Ashantis; the latter occupied their +present habitat about 1640, and at once became the foes of all their +neighbours. King Osai Tutu, 'the Great,' first of Ashanti despot-kings +(1719), made Gyáman tributary. The conquest was completed by his +brother-successor, Osai Apoko (1731), who fined Abo, the neighbour-king, +in large sums of gold and fixed an annual subsidy. Gyáman, however, +rebelled against Osai Kwájo (Cudjoe), the fourth of the dynasty (1752), +and twice defeated him with prodigious slaughter. The Ashanti invader +brought to his aid Moslem cavalry, and succeeded in again subjugating the +insurgents. The conquered took no action against the fifth king, but they +struck for independence under Osai Apoko II (1797). Aided by Moslem and +other allies, they crossed the Tando and fought so sturdily that the enemy +'liberally bestowed upon them the titles of warlike and courageous.' The +Ashantis at length compelled the Moslems of their country to join them, +and ended by inflicting a crushing defeat upon the invaders. + +Osai Tutu Kwámina, on coming to the throne (1800), engaged in the campaign +against Gyáman called, for distinction, the 'first Bontuko war.' He +demanded from King Adinkara his ancestral and royal stool, which was +thickly studded and embossed with precious metal. The craven yielded it +and purchased peace. His brave sister presently replaced it by a seat of +solid gold: this the Ashanti again requisitioned, together with a large +gold ornament in the shape of an elephant, said to have been dug from some +ruins. The Amazon replied, with some detail and in the 'spade' language, +that she and her brother should exchange sexes, and that she would fight +_ŕ l'outrance_; whereupon the Ashanti, with many compliments about her +bravery, gave her twelve months to prepare for a campaign. + +In 1818 Dupuis found Ashanti engaged in the 'second Bontuko war' with +Adinkara, who had again thrown off his allegiance. But small-pox was +raging in the capital, and this campaign ended (1819-20) with the defeat +and death of the womanly monarch, with a massacre of 10,000 prisoners, and +with the sale of 20,000 captives. Thus Gyáman was again annexed to +Ashanti-land as a province, instead of enjoying the rank of a tributary +kingdom; and the conqueror's dominions extended from Cape Lahou (W. long. +4ş 36') through Gyáman to the Volta River (E. long. 0ş 42' 18"), a +coast-line of some 318 direct geographical miles. + +Gyáman, however, seems to have had a passion for liberty. She fought again +and again to recover what she had lost in 1820; and, on more occasions +than one, she was successful in battle. During the 'Ashanti scare' the +sturdy kingdom was preparing for serious hostilities; and a little war of +six or seven months had already been waged between the neighbours. The +late Prince Owusu, before mentioned, deposed before the authorities of our +Protectorate as follows: 'At Kumasi I was ordered to eat the skull of the +late King of Gyáman, which was kept there as a trophy from the conquest of +Gyáman; but I did not do it.' He also asserted that, in 1879, a white man, +Nielson, and his interpreter, Huydecooper, had been sent by an intriguer +to Gyáman, bearing a pretended message from the British Government and the +Fanti chiefs, enjoining the King to conclude peace with the Ashantis, and +to restore their 3,700 captives. Neither of these men saw the ruler of +Gyáman, and it is believed that Nielson, having begun a quarrel by firing +upon the people, was killed in the fray. + +At this moment Gyáman is battling with her old enemies, and threatens to +be a dangerous rival, if not a conqueror. Here, then, we may raise a +strong barrier against future threats of Ashanti invasion, and make +security more secure. The political officers of the Protectorate will be +the best judges of the steps to be taken; and, if they are active and +prudent, we shall hear no more of the Kumasi bugbear. + + * * * * * + +§2. THE LABOUR-QUESTION IN WESTERN AFRICA. + +In their present condition our African colonies are colonies only because +they are administered by the Colonial Office. + +Most of these stations--for such they should be termed--were established, +for slaving purposes, by the Portuguese, and were conquered by the Dutch. +Thence they passed into the hands of England, who vigorously worked the +black _traite_ for the benefit of her West Indian possessions. + +The 'colonies' in question, however, saw their occupation gone with negro +emancipation, and they became mere trading-ports and posts for collecting +ground-nuts, palm-oil, and gold-dust. Philanthropy and freedom expected +from them great things; but instead of progressing they have gradually and +surely declined. The public calls them 'pest-houses,' and the Government +pronounces them a 'bore.' Travellers propose to make them over to Liberia +or to any Power that will accept such white elephants. + +Remains now the task of placing upon the path of progress these wretched +West African 'colonies,' and of making them a credit and a profit to +England, instead of a burden and an opprobrium. + +Immigration, I find, is _le mot de l'énigme_. + +Between 1860 and 1865 I studied the labour-question in West Africa, and my +short visit in 1882 has convinced me that it is becoming a vital matter +for our four unfortunate establishments, Bathurst, Sierra Leone, the Gold +Coast, and Lagos. + +A score of years ago many agreed with me that there was only one solution +for our difficulties, a system of extensive coolie-importation. But in +those days of excited passions and divided interests, when the export +slave-trade and the _émigration libre_ were still rampant on either coast, +it was by no means easy to secure a fair hearing from the public. Not a +small nor an uninfluential section, the philanthropic and the missionary, +raised and maintained the cuckoo-cry, 'Africa for the Africans!'--worthy +of its successor, 'Ireland for the Irish!' Others believed in imported +labour, which has raised so many regions to the height of prosperity; but +they did not see how to import it. And the general _vis inertić_, peculiar +to hepatic tropical settlements, together with the unwillingness, or +rather the inability, to undertake anything not absolutely necessary, made +many of the colonists look upon the proposal rather as a weariness to the +flesh than a benefit. A chosen few steadily looked forward to it; but they +contented themselves with a theoretical prospect, and, perhaps wisely, did +not attempt action. + +The condition of the Coast, however, has radically changed during the last +two decades. The export slave-trade has died the death, never to +'resurrect.' The immense benefits of immigration are known to all men, +theoretically and practically. India and China have thrown open their +labour-markets. And, finally, the difficulty of finding hands, for +agriculture especially, in Western Africa has now come to a crisis. + +Here I must be allowed a few words of preliminary explanation. In this +matter, the reverse of Europe, Africa, whose social system is built upon +slavery, holds field-work, and indeed all manual labour, degrading to the +free man. The idea of a 'bold peasantry, its country's pride,' is utterly +alien to Nigritia. The husband hunts, fights, and trades--that is to say, +peddles--he leaves sowing and reaping to his wives and his chattels. Even +a slave will rather buy him a slave than buy his own liberty. 'I am free +enough,' he says; 'all I want is a fellow to serve me.' The natives of the +Dark Continent are perfectly prepared to acknowledge that work is a curse; +and, so far scripturally, they deem + + Labour the symbol of man's punishment. + +No Spaniard of the old school would despise more than a negro those +new-fangled notions glorifying work now familiar to stirring and bustling +North Europe. Nor will these people exert themselves until, like the +Barbadians, they must either sweat or starve. Example may do something to +stir them, but the mere preaching of industry is hopeless. I repeat: their +_beau idéal_ of life is to do nothing for six days in the week and to rest +on the seventh. They are quite prepared to keep, after their fashion, 365 +sabbaths per annum. + +In the depths of Central Africa, where a European shows a white face for +the first time, the wildest tribes hold markets once or twice a week; +these meetings on the hillside or the lake-bank are crowded, and the din +and excitement are extreme. Armed men, women, and children may be seen +dragging sheep and goats, or sitting under a mat-shade through the +livelong days before their baskets and bits of native home-spun, the whole +stock in trade consisting perhaps of a few peppers, a heap of palm-nuts, +or strips of manioc, like pipe-clay. This savage scene is reflected in the +comparatively civilised stations all down the West African coast, where +the inexperienced and ardent philanthrope is apt to suppose that the lazy, +feckless habits are not nature-implanted but contracted by contact with a +more advanced stage of society. + +Again, in many parts of Africa the richest lands, and those most +favourably situated, are either uninhabited or thinly peopled, the result +of intestine wars or of the export slave-trade. Mr. Administrator +Goulsbury, of Bathurst, during his adventurous march from the Gambia to +the Sierra Leone River, crossed league after league of luxuriant ground +and found it all desert. He says, [Footnote: Blue Book of 1882, quoted in +Chap. X.] 'I think the fact has never been sufficiently recognised that +Africa, and especially the west coast of the continent, is but very +sparsely populated.... It is not only very limited, but is, I believe, if +not stationary, actually decreasing in numbers.... I commend this fact to +the consideration of those who indulge in day-dreams as to the almost +unlimited increase of commerce which they fondly imagine is to be the +result and reward of opening up the interior of the country.' + +In regions richer than the Upper Gambia the disappearance of man is ever +followed by a springing of bush and forest so portentous that a few hands +are helpless and hopeless. Such is the case with the great wooded belt +north of the Gold Coast, where even the second-growth becomes impenetrable +without the matchet, and where the swamps and muds, bred and fed by +torrential rains, bar the transit of travellers. The Whydah and Gaboon +countries are notable specimens of once populous regions now all but +deserted. + +Nothing more surprising, to men who visit Africa for the first time, than +the over-wealth of labour in Madeira and its penury on the Western Coast. +At Bathurst they find ships loading or unloading by the work of the Golah +women, whose lazy husbands live upon the hardly-earned wage. They see the +mail-steamers landing ton after ton of Chinese rice shipped _viâ_ England. +The whole country with its humid surface and its reeking, damp-hot climate +is a natural rice-bed. The little grain produced by it is far better than +the imported, but there are no hands to work the ground. It is the same +with salt, which is cheaper when brought from England: no man has the +energy to lay out a salina; and, if he did, its outlay, under 'Free +Trade,' would be greater than its income. + +Steaming along the picturesque face of the Sierra Leone peninsula, the +stranger remarks with surprise that its most fertile ridges and slopes +hardly show a field, much less a farm, and that agriculture is confined to +raising a little garden-stuff for the town-market. The peasant, the hand, +is at a discount. The Sierra Leonite is a peddler-born who aspires to be a +trader, a merchant; or he looks to a learned profession, especially the +law. The term 'gentleman-farmer' has no meaning for him. Of late years a +forcing process has been tried, and a few plantations have been laid out, +chiefly for the purpose, it would appear, of boasting and of vaunting the +new-grown industry at home. Mr. Henry M. Stanley remarks [Footnote: +_Coomassie and Magdala_, p. 8], 'In almost every street in Sierra Leone I +heard the voice of praise and local prayer from the numerous aspirants to +clerkships and civil service employ; but I am compelled to deny that I +ever heard the sound of mallet and chisel, of mortar, pestle, and trowel, +the ringing sound of hammer on anvil, or roar of forge, which, to my +practical mind, would have had a far sweeter sound. There is virgin land +in the neighbourhood of Sierra Leone yet untilled; there are buildings in +the town yet unfinished; there are roads for commerce yet to be made; the +trade of the African interior yet waits to be admitted into the capacious +harbour of Sierra Leone for the enrichment of the fond nursing-mother of +races who sits dreamily teaching her children how to cackle instead of how +to work.' + +The same apathy to agriculture prevails in Liberia. For the last forty +years large plantations have been laid out on the noble St. Paul River +between Cape Mount and Mount Mesurado. The coffee-shrub, like the +copal-tree, belts Africa from east to west--from Harar, where I saw it, +through Karagué, where it grows wild, the bean not being larger than a +pin's head, to Manywema, in the Congo valley, and to the West Coast, +especially about the Rio Nunez, north of Sierra Leone. It is of the finest +quality, second only to the Mocha; but what hope is there of its +development? The Váy tribe, which holds the land, is useless; the rare new +comers from America will work, but the older settlers will not; and there +is hardly money enough to pay Krumen. + +On the Gold Coast there is no exceptional scarcity of population: under +normal circumstances, the labour-market is sufficiently supplied, but a +strain soon exhausts it. Sir Garnet Wolseley found his greatest difficulty +in the want of workmen: he was obliged to apply for 500 British navvies; +and, at one time, he thought of converting the first and second West India +Regiments, with Wood's and Russell's men, into carriers. On the other +hand, the conduct of the women was admirable; as the conqueror said in the +Mansion House, he hardly wondered at the King of Dahome keeping up a corps +of 'Amazons.' I shall presently return to the gold-mines. + +At Lagos M. Colonna, Consular Agent for France, informs me that by his +firm alone 600 hands are wanted for field-service, and that the number +might rise to a thousand. He would also be glad to hire artisans, +blacksmiths and carpenters, masons and market-gardeners. The Yorubas from +the upper country, who will engage for three years, demand from a franc to +a shilling per diem, rations not given. Labour ranges from sixteen to +twenty-four francs per mensem; and coolies could not command more than +twenty-five francs, including 'subsistence.' Here Kruboys are much used. +M. Colonna pays his first-class per mensem $5 (each =5 francs 20 +centimes), his second class $4, and his third $3. Returning to the Gold +Coast, I find two classes of working men, the country-people and the +Kruboys: the Sierra Leonites are too few to be taken into consideration. +At present, when there are only five working mines, none of which are +properly manned, labour is plentiful and cheap. It will be otherwise when +the number increases, as it will soon do, to fifty and a hundred. Upwards +of seventy concessions have already been granted, and I know one house +which has, or soon will have, half a dozen ready for market. Then natives +and Kruboys will strike for increased wages till even diamond-mines would +not pay. The Gold Coast contains rich placers in abundance: if they fail +it will be for want of hands, or because the cost of labour will swallow +up profits. + +The country-people, Fantis, Accra-men, Apollonians of Béin, and others, +will work, and are well acquainted with gold-working. But they work in +their own way; and, save under exceptional conditions, they are incapable +of regular and continuous labour. It gives one the heart-ache to see their +dawdling, idling, shuffling, shiftless style of spoiling time. They are +now taking to tribute, piece and contract work. The French mines supply +them with tools and powder, and, by way of pay and provisions, allow them +to keep two-thirds of the produce. It is evident that such an arrangement +will be highly profitable to the hands who will 'pick the eyes out of the +mine,' and who will secrete all the richest stuff, leaving the poorest to +their employers. No amount of European surveillance will suffice to +prevent free gold in stone being stolen. Hence the question will arise +whether, despite the price of transport, reduction in England will not pay +better. + +The Kruboys in the north and the Kabinda boys in the south have been +described as the Irishmen of West Africa: they certainly do the most work; +and trading-ships would find it almost impossible to trade without them. +During the last twenty years they have not improved in efficiency even on +board men-of-war. In 1861-65 the gangs with their headmen willingly +engaged for three years. Now they enlist only for a year; they carefully +keep tallies, and after the tenth monthly cut they begin to apply for +leave. Thus the men's services are lost just as they are becoming +valuable. It is the same with the Accra-men. When the mines learn the +simple lesson _l'union fait la force_ they will combine not to engage +Krumen for less than two years. + +There are two great centres at which Kruboys are hired. The first is +Sierra Leone, where they demand from all employers what the +mail-steamers pay--the headmen half-a-crown and the hands a shilling a +day besides rations. The second is the Kru coast. In 1850 the 'boys' +received 5_s._ per mensem in goods, which reduced it to 3_s._ They had +also daily rice-rations, 'Sunday beef,' and, at times, a dash of +tobacco, a cap, a blanket or a waist-cloth. In 1860 the hire rose to +9_s._ in kind, or 4_s._ 6_d._ in coin. About this time cruisers began to +pay them the monthly wages of ordinary seamen, 1_l._ 10s., with white +man's rations or compensation-money, amounting to another 12_l._ a year. +In 1882 headmen engage for the Oil Rivers at 1_l._, and 'boys' for +10_s._ to 12_s._ For the gold-mines of Wásá they have learned to demand +1_s._ 3_d._ per diem, and at the cheapest 1_l._ a month, the headmen +receiving double. + +The Kru-market does not supply more than 4,000 hands, and yet it is +already becoming 'tight.' In a few years demand will be excessive. + +[Footnote: The usual estimate of the Kru-hands employed out of their own +country is as follows:-- +For the Oil Rivers: + 150 each for Brass and Bonny, New Calabar and Camarones; + 150-200 for the Niger, and + 150 for Fernando Po and the Portuguese Islands 1200-1500 +At Lagos 1000 +On board the 25 Bristol ships, at 20 each 500 +For nine to ten ships of war 200 +For ten mail-steamers 200 +In the mines: (May, 1882) + Izrah 7, Akankon 14, Effuenta 120, + the two French companies 200, the Gold Coast 100, + and Crockerville 20 461 + ---- + Total 3861; say 4000] + +The following notes were given to me by the managers of mines, whom I +consulted upon the subject. + +Mr. Crocker prefers Fantis, Elminas, and others; and he can hire as many +as he wants; at Cape Coast Castle alone there are some eighty hands now +unemployed. He pays 36_s._, without rations, per month of four weeks. He +has about a score of Kruboys, picked up 'on the beach;' these are +fellows who have lost all their money, and who dare not go home +penniless. Their headman receives per mens. $3.50, and in exceptional +cases $4. The better class of 'boys' get from $2.50 to $3; and lesser +sums are given to the 'small boys,' whose principal work is stealing, +skulking. + +Mr. Creswick has a high opinion of Krumen working in the mines, and has +found sundry of them to develop into excellent mechanics. The men want +only good management. Under six Europeans, himself included, he employs a +hundred hands, and from eight to ten mechanics. The first headman draws +37_s_. 6_d_., the second 22_s_., full-grown labourers 18_s_., and 'small +boys' from 4_s_. to 6_s_. and 9_s_. + +Mechanics' wages range between 1_l_. 5_s_. and 4_l_. All have rations or +'subsistence,' which here means 3_d_. a day. + +Mr. MacLennan has a few Fanti miners, whom he pays at the rate of 6_d_. +per half-day. His full muster of Krumen is 120; the headmen receive 27_s_. +6_d_., rising, after six months, to 35_s_. The first class of common boys +get 20_s_.; the second from 13_s_. 6_d_. to 15_s_.; and the third, mostly +'small boys,' between 5_s_. and 10_s_. His carpenters and blacksmiths, who +are Gold Coasters and Sierra Leonites, draw from 2_l_. 10_s_. to 3_l_. The +rations are, as usual, 1-1/2 lb. of rice per day, with 1 lb. of 'Sunday +beef,' whose brine is converted into salt. + +Mr. A. Bowden, manager of the Tákwá and Abosu Mines, also employs a +'mixed multitude.' His Sierra Leone carpenters and blacksmiths draw +3_l._ 10_s._ to 4_l._ 10_s._ per month without rations, and his native +mechanics 3_l._ to 3_l._ 10_s._ The Fanti labourers are paid, as usual, +a shilling per diem and find themselves. The Kruboys, besides being +lodged and fed (1-1/2 lb. rice per day and 1 lb. beef or fish per week), +draw in money as follows: headman, 2_l_.; second ditto, 1_l_. 7s. to +1_l_. 12_s._; miners, 18_s._ to 20_s._ and labourers 9_s._ to 16_s._ + +This state of the labour-market is, I have said, purely provisional. It +will not outlast the time when the present concessions are in full +exploitation; and this condition of things I hope soon to see. We can then +draw from the neighbouring countries, from Yoruba to the north-east, and +perhaps, but this is doubtful, from the Baasás [Footnote: A manly and +powerful race, who call themselves Americans and will have nothing to do +with the English.] and the Drewins to the west. But we must come, sooner +or later, and the sooner the better, to a regular coolie-immigration, East +African, Indian, and Chinese. + +The benefit of such an influx must not be measured merely by the +additional work of a few thousand hands. It will at once create jealousy, +competition, rivalry. It will teach by example--the only way of teaching +Africans--that work is not ignoble, but that it is ignoble to earn a +shilling and to live idle on three-pence a day till the pence are +exhausted. Its advantages will presently be felt along the whole western +coast, and men will wonder why it was not thought of before. The French, +as they are wont to do in these days, have set us an example. Already in +early 1882 the papers announced that a first cargo of 178 +Chinese--probably from Cochin-China--had been landed at Saint-Louis de +Senegal for the proposed Senegambian railway. + +The details of such an immigration and the measures which it will require +do not belong to this place. Suffice it to say that we can draw freely +upon the labour-banks of Macáo, Bombay, and Zanzibar. The intelligent, +thrifty, and industrious Chinese will learn mining here, as they have +learnt it elsewhere, with the utmost readiness. The 'East Indian' will be +well adapted for lighter work of the garden and the mines. Finally, the +sturdy Wásawahili of the East African coast will do, as carriers and +labourers, three times the work of Pantis and Apollonians. + +I need hardly say that Captain Cameron and I would like nothing better +than to organise a movement of this kind; we would willingly do more good +to the West African coast than the whole tribe of its so-called +benefactors. + + + + +§3. GOLD-DIGGING IN NORTH-WESTERN AFRICA. + +_a. Sketch of its Origin_. + +The mineral wealth of Central Africa has still to be studied; at present +we are almost wholly ignorant of it. We know, however, that the outlying +portions of the Continent contain three distinct and grand centres of +mining-industry. The first worked is the north-eastern corner--in fact, +the Nile-valley and its adjacencies, where Fayzoghlú still supplies the +noble metal. The second, also dating from immense antiquity, is the whole +West African coast from Morocco to the Guinea Gulf, both included. The +third and last, the south-eastern gold-fields, have been discovered by the +Portuguese in comparatively modern days. + +In this paper I propose to treat only of the western field. Its +exploitation began early enough to be noticed by Herodotus, the oldest of +Greek prose-writers. He tells us (lib. iv. 196, &c.) that the +Carthaginians received gold from a black people, whose caravans crossed +the Sahará, or Great Desert, and that they traded for it with the wild +tribes of the West Coast. His words are as follows:--'There is a land in +Libya, and a nation beyond the Pillars of Hercules [the Straits of +'Gib.'], which they [the Carthaginians] are wont to visit, where they no +sooner arrive but forthwith they break cargo; and, having disposed their +wares in an orderly way along the beach, leave them, and, returning aboard +their ships, raise a great smoke. + +'The natives, when they see the smoke, come down to the shore, and, laying +out to view so much gold as they think the worth of the wares, withdraw +themselves afar. The Carthaginians upon this come ashore and look. If they +deem the gold sufficient they take it and wend their way; but if it does +not seem to them sufficient, they go aboard once more and wait patiently. +Then the others draw near and add to their gold till the Carthaginians are +content. Neither party deals unfairly by the other; for they themselves +never touch the gold till it comes up to the worth of their goods, nor do +the natives ever carry off the goods till the gold is taken away.' + +Plato ('Critias' [Footnote: The celebrated Dialogue which treats of +Altantis and describes cocoas as the 'fruits having a hard rind, affording +drinks and meats and ointments.']) may refer to this dumb trade when he +tells us, 'Never was prince more wealthy than Atlas [eldest son of +Poseidon by Cleito]. His land was fertile, healthy, beautiful, marvellous; +it was terminated by a range of gold-yielding mountains.' Lyon, speaking +of the western Sudán, uses almost the very words of Herodotus. 'An +invisible nation, according to our informant, inhabit near this place, and +are said to trade by night. Those who come to traffic for their gold lay +their merchandise in heaps and retire. In the morning they find a certain +quantity of gold-dust placed against every heap, which if they think +sufficient they leave the goods; if not, they let both remain till more of +the precious ore is added' (p. 149). [Footnote: Shaw gives a similar +account (_Travels_, p. 302).] + +The classical trade in gold and slaves was diligently prosecuted by the +Arabs or Saracens after Mohammed's day. Their caravans traversed the great +wilderness which lies behind the fertile Mediterranean shore, and founded +negroid empires in the western Sudán, or Blackland. Gháná, whence, +perhaps, the Portuguese Guiné and our Guinea of 'the dreadful mortal +name,' became the great gold-mart of the day. Famous in history is its +throne, a worked nugget of solid gold, weighing 30 lbs. It has been +rivalled in modern times by the 'stool' of Bontuko (Gyáman), and by the +'Hundredweight of gold' produced by New South Wales. Most of the wealth +came from a district to the south-west, Wangara, Ungura, or Unguru, +bordering on the Niger, and supposed to correspond with modern +Mandenga-land. In the lowlands, after the annual floods, the natives dug +and washed the diluvial deposits for the precious metal exactly as is now +done upon the Gold Coast; and they burrowed into the highlands which +surround in crescent-form the head-waters of the great River Joliba. +Presently Tinbukhtu succeeded, according to Leo Africanus (1500), Gháná as +the converging point of the trade, and made the name for wealth which +endures even to the present day. Its princes and nobles lavishly employed +the precious ore in ornaments, some weighing 1,300 ounces. + +In due time the Moroccan Arabs were succeeded by their doughty rivals, the +Portuguese of the heroic ages of D. D. Joăo II. and Manoel. I here pass +over the disputed claim of the French, who declare that they imported the +metal from 'Elmina' as early as 1382. [Footnote: See Chapter II.] The +first gold was discovered on his second voyage by Gonçalo Baldeza (1442) +at the Rio de Ouro, the classical Lixus and the modern El-Kus, famed for +the defeat and death of Dom Sebastiam. [Footnote: I have noticed it in +_Camoens, his Life and his Lusiads_, vol ii. chapter iii. The +identification with the Rio de Onro is that of Bowdich (p. 505). Another +Rio de Ouro was visited in 1860 by Captain George Peacock (before alluded +to), 'having a French frigate under his orders.' The 'River of Gold' of +course would become a favourite and a banal name.] + +In 1470 Joăo de Santarem and Pero d'Escobar, knights of the King, sailed +past Cape Falmas, discovered the islands of Săo Thomé and Annobom (January +1, 1471); and, on their return homewards, found a trade in gold-dust at +the village of Sama (Chamah) and on the site which we miscall 'Elmina.' +[Footnote: This form of the word, a masculine article with a feminine +noun, cannot exist in any of the neo-Latin languages. In Italian and +Spanish it would be La Mina, in Portuguese A Mina. The native name is Dina +or Edina.] During the same year Fernan' Gomez, a worthy of Lisbon, bought +a five years' monopoly of the gold-trade from the King, paying 44_l._ 9_s._ +par annum, and binding himself to explore, every year, 300 miles down +coast from Sierra Leone. One of these expeditions landed at 'Elmina' and +discovered Cape Catherine in south latitude 1ş 50' and west longitude +(Gr.) 9ş 2'. The rich mines opened at Little Kommenda, or Aprobi, led to +the building of the Fort Săo Jorje da Mina, by Diego d'Azembuja, sent out +(A.D. 1481) to superintend the construction. But about 1622 the falling in +of some unbraced and untimbered shafts and the deaths of many miners +induced Gweffa, the King, to 'put gold in Fetish,' making it an accursed +thing; and it has not been worked since that time. + +Thus Portugal secured to herself the treasures which made her the +wealthiest of European kingdoms. But when she became a province of Spain, +under D. Philip II., her Eastern conquests were systematically neglected +in favour of the Castilian colonies that studded the New World. The weak +Lusitanian garrisons were massacred on the Gold Coast, as in other parts +of Africa; and the Hollanders, the 'Water-beggars,' who had conquered +their independence from Spain, proceeded to absorb the richest possessions +of their quondam rivals. 'Elmina,' the capital, fell into Dutch hands +(1637), and till 1868 Holland retained her forts and factories on the Gold +Coast. + +In their turn the English and the French, who had heard of the fabulous +treasures of the Joliba valley and the Tinbukhtu mart, began to claim +their share. As early as 1551 Captain Thomas Wyndham touched at the Gold +Coast and brought home 150 lbs. of the precious dust. The first English +company for exploring the Gambia River sent out (1618) their agent, +Richard Thompson. This brave and unfortunate explorer was rancorously +opposed by the Portuguese and eventually murdered by his own men. He was +followed (1620) by Richard Jobson, to whom we owe the first account of the +Gambia River. He landed at various points, armed with mercury, aqua regia +(nitric acid), large crucibles, and a 'dowsing' or divining rod; +[Footnote: A form of this old and almost universal magical instrument, +worked by electricity, has, I am told, been lately invented and patented +in the United States.] washed the sands and examined the rocks even beyond +the Falls of Barraconda. After having often been deceived, as has occurred +to many prospectors since his day, he determined that gold never occurs in +low fertile wooded lands, but in naked and barren hills, which embed it in +their reddish ferruginous soil. Hence it was long and erroneously +determined that bare rocks in the neighbourhood of shallow alluvia +characterise rich placers, and that the wealthiest mining-regions are poor +and stunted in vegetation. California and Australia, the Gold Coast and +South Africa, are instances of the contrary. Wásá, however, confirms the +old opinion that the strata traversed by lodes determine the predominating +metal; as quartz produces gold; hard blue slate, lead; limestone, +green-stone and porphyry, copper; and granite, tin. [Footnote: Page 17, _A +Treatise on Metalliferous Minerals and Mining_, by D. C. Davies. London, +Crosby and Co., 1881. The volume is handy and useful to explorers.] + +After twenty days' labour Jobson succeeded in extracting 12 lbs. from a +single site. He declares that at length he 'arrived at the mouth of the +mine itself, and found gold in such abundance as surprised him with joy +and admiration.' Unfortunately he leaves us no notice of its position; it +is probably lost, like many of the old Brazilian diggings. The Gambia +River still exports small quantities of dust supposed to have been washed +in the Ghauts, or sea-subtending ridges, of the interior. Most of it, +however, finds its way to the wealthier and more prosperous French colony. + +Whilst the English chose the Gambia the French preferred Senegal, where +they founded (1626) 'St. Louis,' called after Louis XIV. The Sieur Brue, +Director-General of the Senegal Company, made a second journey of +discovery in 1698, and reached with great difficulty the gold-mines of +desert and dreary Bambúk. There he visited the principal districts, and +secured specimens of what he calls the _ghingan_, or golden earth. He +proposed a third incursion, but the absolute apathy of his countrymen +proved an insuperable obstacle. + +M. Golberry describes Bambúk in gloomy and sombre colours. Its gold is +distributed amongst low ranges of peeled and sterile hills. Probably this +results from fires and disforesting. It occurs in the shape of spangles, +grains, and _pépites_ (nuggets), whose size increases with the depth of +the digging. In the Matakon mine the dust adhered to fragments of iron, +emery, and lapis lazuli, from which it was easily detached and washed. The +less valuable Semayla placer produced dust in a hard reddish loam, mixed +with still more refractory materials; it was crushed in mortars with rude +wooden dollies or with grain-pestles. The pits, six feet in diameter, +reached a depth of from ten to twelve yards, where they were stopped by a +bed of hard reddish marle; this the Frenchman held to be the hanging wall +of a much richer lode. The people used ladders, but they neglected to +collar or brace the mouth, and the untimbered pit-sides often fell in; +hence fatal accidents, attributed to the 'earth-spirits.' They held gold +to be a capricious elf, and when a rich vein suddenly ran barren they +cried out, 'There! he is off!' + +In later days Mungo Park drew attention by his famous first journey +(1795-97) to the highlands of the Mandingoes (Mandenga-land), and revived +interest in the provinces of Shronda, Konkodu, Dindiko, Bambúk, and +Bambarra. Here the natives collect dust by laborious washings of detrital +sand. His fatal second expedition (1805) produced an unfinished journal, +which, however, gives the amplest and most interesting notices concerning +the gold-production of the region he traversed. My space compels me to +refer readers to the original. [Footnote: Murray's edition of 1816, vol. +i, p. 40, and vol. ii. p. 751.] + +The traveller Caillié (1827), after crossing the Niger _en route_ to +Tinbukhtu, passed south of the Bouré province, in the valley of the Great +River; and here he reports an abundance of gold. As in the districts +visited by Park, it is all alluvial and washed out of the soil. The dust, +together with native cloth, wax, honey, cotton and cattle, finds its way +to the coast, where it is bartered for beads, amber and coral, calicoes +and firearms. The gold-mines of Bouré were first visited and described by +Winwood Reade. [Footnote: _Coomassie_, &c., p. 126.] + +The peninsula of Sierra Leone is not yet proved to be auriferous. Here +stray Moslems, mostly Mandengas, occasionally bring down the Melakori +River ring-gold and dust from the interior. The colonists of Liberia +assert that at times they have come upon a pocket which produced fifty +dollars; the country-people also occasionally offer gold for sale. From +the Bassam coast middle-men travel far inland and buy the metal from the +bushmen. Near Grand Bassam free gold in quartz-reefs near the shore has +been reported. + +We now reach the Gold Coast proper, which amply deserves its glorious +golden name. I have shown that the whole seaboard of West Africa, between +it and Morocco, produces more or less gold; here, however, the precious +metal comes down to the very shore and is washed upon the sands. Its +length from the Assini boundary-line to the Volta [Footnote: Chapter XIV. +I would not assert that gold is not found east of the Volta River. M. +Colonna, of Lagos, told me that he had good reason to suspect its presence +on the seaboard of Dahome, and promised me to make further enquiries.] has +been laid down at 220 direct geographical miles by a depth of about 100. +The area of the Protectorate, which has been a British colony since 1874, +is assumed to be 16,620 instead of 24,500 square miles, and the population +may exceed half a million. Its surface is divided into twelve petty +kingdoms; and its strand is studded with forts and ruins of forts, a total +of twenty-five, or one to every eight miles. This small section of West +Africa poured a flood of gold into Europe; and, until the mineral +discoveries of California and Australia, it continued to be the principal +source of supply to the civilised world. + +The older writers give us ample details about gold-digging and trading two +centuries ago. Bosnian (Letter VI.) shows that the people prospected for +the illustrious metal in three forms of ground. The first was in, or +between, particular hills, where they sank pits; the second was about the +rivers and waterfalls; and the third was on the seashore near the mouths +of rivulets after violent night-rains. He ends his letter with these +sensible words: 'I would refer to any intelligent metallist whether a vast +deal of ore must not of necessity be lost here, from which a great deal of +gold might be separated, from want of skill in the metallic art; and not +only so, but I firmly believe that vast quantities of pure gold are left +behind; for the negroes only ignorantly dig at random, without the least +knowledge of the veins of the mine. [Footnote: The origin of these mineral +veins is still disputed, science being as yet too young for the task of +solving the mystery. Probably, as Mr. Davies remarks, 'the mode of the +origin and means of the deposition are not one only but many,' and we have +the Huttonian (igneous) and Wernerian (aqueous) theories, the sublimation +of Necker, the electricity of Mr. R. W. Fox, the infiltration and +gravitation of fluid metals towards cracks, vughs (cavities), and +shrinkages, and the law of replacement. 'If a steel plate be removed atom +by atom,' says Mr. R. Brough Smyth (_Gold Fields of Victoria_, Melbourne, +1869), 'and each atom be replaced by a corresponding atom of silver--a +fact established by direct experiment--it will be readily seen that a +mineral vein may be formed in the same way.'] And I doubt not that if the +land belonged to Europeans they would soon find it to produce much richer +treasures than the negroes obtain from it. But it is not probable that we +shall ever possess that liberty here, wherefore we must be content with +being so far masters of it as we are at present, which, if well and +prudently managed, would turn to a very great account.' + +Times, however, are changed. England is now mistress of the field, and it +will be her fault if she leaves it untilled. + +The good old Hollander first mentions amongst his six gold-sites the +kingdom of Denkira; it then included the conquests of Wásá (Wassaw), of +Encasse, [Footnote: The Inkassa of D'Anville, 1729.] and of Juffer or +Quiforo. The gold of that region is good, but much alloyed for the trade +with 'fetish'-figures. These are composed sometimes of pure mountain-gold; +more often the ore is mixed with one-third, or even a half, of silver and +copper, and stuffed with half-weight of the black earth used for moulding. +The second was Acanny (D'Anville's Akanni), with gold so pure and fine +that 'Acanny sika' meant the best ley. Then came the kingdom of Akim, +which 'furnishes as large quantities of gold as any land that I know, and +that also the most valuable and pure of any that is carried away from the +coast.' It was easily distinguished by its deep colour. The fourth and +fifth were Ashanti and Ananse, a small tract between the ex-great +despotism and Denkira. The sixth and last was Awine, our Aowin, the region +to the east of the Tando, then and now included in the British +Protectorate. The Dutch 'traded here with a great deal of pleasure,' the +people 'being the civilest and fairest dealers of all the negroes.' + +The Ashanti war of 1873-74 had the effect of opening to transit a large +area of workable ground. English officers traversed the interior in all +directions, and their reports throw vivid light upon the position, the +extent, and the value of the auriferous grounds which subtend the Gold +Coast and which supply it with the precious metal. + +The gold-provinces best known to us are now three--Wásá, of which these +pages treat; Akim, the hill-land, an easy journey of a week north with +westing from Akra; and Gyáman, the rival of Ashanti. + +Akim is divided into eastern and western. Mr. H. Ponsonby, when travelling +through both regions, found the natives getting quantities of gold by +digging holes eight to ten feet deep on either side of the forest-paths. +He saw as much as three ounces taken up in less than half an hour. Around +the capital of eastern Akim, Kyebi, or Chyebi, the land is also +honeycombed with man-holes, making night-travel dangerous to the stranger. +It requires a sharp eye to detect the deserted pits, two feet in diameter +and 'sunk straight, as if they had been bored with huge augurs.' I have +seen something of the kind in the water-meadows near Shoreham. The workman +descends by foot-holes, and works with a hoe four to six inches long by +two broad: when his calabash is filled it is drawn up by his companions. +The earthquakes of April and July 1862 [Footnote: I happened to be at Akra +during the convulsion of July 10. The commandant, Major (now Colonel) de +Buvignes, and I set out for a stroll along the sands to the west. The +morning was close and cloudy: what little breeze there was came from the +south-west, under a leaden sky and over a leaden sea. At 8.10 A.M., as we +were returning from the rocks about three-quarters of a mile off, there +was a sudden rambling like a distant thunder-clap; the sands seemed to +wave up and down as a shaken carpet, and we both staggered forwards. +Others described the movement as rising and falling like the waters of a +lagoon. I looked with apprehension at the sea; but the direction of the +shock was apparently from west-north-west; and the line was too oblique to +produce one of those awful earthquake-waves, seventy feet high, which have +swept tall ships over the roofs of cities. We ran as fast as we could to +the town, where everything was in the wildest confusion. The 'Big House' +and Mr. John Hansen's were mere ruins; the Court-house had come to pieces, +and the prison-cells yawned open. I distinctly saw that the rock-ledge +under Akra, between Fort James and Crčvecoeur, had been upraised: canoes +passed over what was now dry. A second shock at 8.20 A.M., and a third +about 10.45, completed the destruction, split every standing wall, and +shook down the three forts into ruinous heaps. Nor did the seismic +movements cease till July 15, when I made my escape. + +Men who remembered as far back as March 1858, when Colonel Bird ruled the +land, declared that Akra had never felt an earthquake; but on the morning +of April 14, 1862, there had been a sharp shock followed by sundry lighter +movements, and lastly by the most severe. The direction was said to be +north-south, and it was supposed to be the tail of a great earthquake, +whose focus was behind Sierra Leone. A rumbling, like the rolling of guns, +had been heard under the main square of Akra; the shocks were felt by the +ships in the roads, and the disturbance was reported to have been even +more severe up-country. When the wave reached Agbóme, Gelelé, King of +Dahome, with characteristic filial piety, exclaimed, 'Don't you see that +my father is calling for blood, and is angry because we are not sending +him more men?' Whereupon he at once ordered three prisoners from Ishagga +to take the road to Ku-to-men, Hades or Dead-land.] so tossed and broke +up the hill-strata of Akim that all the people flocked to the diggings and +dispensed with the chimney-holes generally sunk. The frontier-village of +Adadentum, on the Prah, was nearly buried by a landslip from a spur of the +'Queeshoh Range.' Huge nuggets were uncovered, and the people filled their +calabashes daily, thankful to their great fetish, the Kataguri. [Footnote: +This is a huge brass pan which fell from heaven: it is or was surrounded +by drawn swords and gold-handled axes in its sanctuary, the fetish-house.] +The provinces of Gyáman, especially Ponin, Safwi, and Showy, are famed for +wealth of gold. In African phrase, while 'the metallic veins of Ashanti, +Denkira, and Wásá lie twelve cubits deep, those of Gyáman are only five.' +The ore dug from pits is of deep colour, and occurs mixed with red gravel +and pieces of white granite (quartz). It is held to be rock-gold +(nuggets), and more valuable than that of Ashanti, although the latter, +passing for current, is mostly pure. This pit-gold appears in lumps +embedded in loam and rock, of which 14 to 15 lbs. would yield 1 to 1 1/2 +lb. pure metal. Nuggets are also produced, and chiefs wear them slung to +hair and wrists; some may weigh 4 lbs. The dust washed from the +torrent-beds is higher-coloured, cleaner, and better than what is produced +elsewhere. It found its way to the Nigerian basin as well as to the Gold +Coast, and was converted into ducats (miskals) and trinkets, chains, +bracelets, anklets, and adornments for weapons. The King of Gyáman became +immensely rich by the produce of his mines; and, according to Bowdich, his +bed had steps of solid gold. + +The reader will have gathered from the preceding pages that the negroes +have worked their gold-fields for centuries but to very little purpose. +Their want of pumps, of quartz-crushers, and of scientific appliances +generally, has limited their labour to scratching the top-soil and +nibbling at the reef-walls. A large proportion of the country is +practically virgin-ground, and a rich harvest has been left for European +science, energy, and enterprise. + +The Fantis have many curious usages and superstitions which limit +production. As a rule nuggets are the royalty of kings and chiefs; but in +many places these 'mothers of gold' are re-buried, in order that gold may +grow from them. [Footnote: It was long supposed in Europe that alluvial +gold grew by a succession of layers imposed upon a solid nucleus, and by +the coalescence of grains as a snow-ball is constructed. Mr. Sellwyn still +holds that 'nuggets and particles of alluvial gold may gradually increase +by the deposition of metallic gold (analogous to the electroplating +process), from the meteoric waters that circulate through the +drifts.'--_Gold Fields of Victoria_, p. 357.] I have noted that a smoke, +or thin vapour, guides to the unknown placer, and that white gold causes a +mine to be abandoned. Rich ground is denoted by a peculiar vegetation, +especially of ferns. Gold is guarded here not by a dragon, but by a +monstrous baboon; and when golden dogs are found the finder dies. In 1862 +I visited with Major de Ruvignes Great Sankánya, a village west of the +Volta, where a large gold-field was reported. As we drew near the spot we +were told that the precious metal appears during the 'yam-customs,' and +that only prayers, sacrifices, and presents to the fetish will make it +visible. Presently we saw a white rag on a pole, which the dark youth, our +guide, called a 'sign,' and groaned out that it would surely slay us. A +woman, whose white and black beads showed a 'religious,' pointed to a +place where gold is 'common as ashes after a fire'--the priest being first +paid. The report of this excursion spread to Akra; Major de Ruvignes had +taken up in his arms a golden dog, and at once fell dead. I can hardly +connect the superstition with old Anubis. + +Whenever the unshored pit caves in the accident has been caused by +evil-minded ghosts, the kobolds of Germany, in which Cornwall till lately +believed. Fetish then steps forward and forbids further search. Thus many +of the richest placers have been closed. Such, for instance, is the Monte +do Diabo (Devil's Hill), the native Mankwadi, [Footnote: Again, I cannot +connect Mankwadi (or even Manquada) with 'Maquida or Azeb, Queen of +Sheba'--the latter country probably lying in South Arabian Yemen.] near +Winnebah, fifteen leagues east from Elmina. The miners were killed by the +heat of the shafts, and the mine was at once placed 'in fetish.' But +'fetish' has now lost much of its authority; the Satanic hill will soon be +exploited, and its only difficulty is its disputed ownership by 'Ghartey, +King of Winnebah,' and 'Okill Ensah, King of Ejemakun.' These dignitaries +condescend to advertise against each other in the local papers. + +At Adá (Addah), west of the Volta and in its neighbourhood, the Krobo +Hills included, a beggar would be grossly insulted by the offer of a +sovereign; he dashes it to earth, spitting upon it with wrath. The +Ashantis, as the story runs, once dug treasure near Sakánya; and, as the +chiefs and people were becoming too independent of them, the high priests +put the precious metal 'in fetish,' with the penalty of blindness to all +who worked it. A Danish governor once filled his pockets, and recovered +sight only by throwing away the plunder. A brother of the Adá chief +offered to show this magic-fenced placer to the late Mr. Nicol Irvine, +_moyennant_ the trifle of 50_l_. The transaction reminded me of the Hindu +alchemist who asks you ten rupees to make a ton of gold. + +As regards the gold-supply of this El Dorado, the Gold Coast, it has been +estimated that the total since A.D. 1471 amounted to six or seven hundred +millions of pounds sterling. Elmina alone, at the beginning of the +seventeenth century, annually exported, according to Bosman, 3,000,000_l_. +At a later period Mr. McQueen increased the figures to 3,400,000_l_. Then +came the abolition of slavery, which caused the decline and fall of +mining-industry amongst the natives. In 1816 the export was reduced to +400,000_l_. (=100,000 ounces), a figure repeated in 1860 by Dr. Eobert +Olarke; and in 1862 the amount was variously reported at 192,000_l_. (= +48,000 ounces) and half a million of money. + +The following proportions were given to me by M. Dahse. Till 1870 the +figures are computed by him; after that date the value is +declared;--[Footnote: _Statistical Abstract of the United Kingdom._ Eyre +and Spottiswoode. London, 1881.] + + 1866 1867 1868 1869 + 120,333_l_. 146,182_l_ 118,875_l_. 100,214_l_. + + 1870 1871 1872 + 116,142_l_. 137,328_l_. 108,869_l_. + +Now began the notable falling-off, which reached its maximum next year:-- + + 1873 1874 1875 1876 + 77,523_l_. 136,263_l_. 117,321_l_. 145,511_l_. + + 1877 1878 1879 1880 + 120,542_l_ 122,497_l_. 115,167_l_. 125,980_l_. + +M. Dahse assumes the annual average to be in round numbers, 126,000_l_. + +The official returns of imported silver from the Coast show:-- + + 1872 1873 1874 1875 1876 + 7,074_l_. 6,841_l_. 40,964_l_. 23,587_l_. 21,667_l_. + + 1877 1878 1879 1880 + 10,905_l_. 41,254_l_. 61,755_l_. 63,337_l_. + +Totals of gold and silver:-- + + 1872 1873 1874 1875 1876 + 115,943_l_. 84,364_l_. 177,227_l_. 140,908_l_. 167,178_l_. + + 1877 1878 1879 1880 + 131,447_l_. 163,751_l_. 176,922_l_. 189,317_l_. + +I was lately asked by an illustrious geologist and man of science, how it +came to pass that the Gold Coast, if so rich, has not been worked before +this time. These notes will afford a sufficient reply. + +_b. The Kong Mountains._ + +This range, which has almost disappeared from the maps, may have taken its +name either from the town of Kong on the southern versant, or it may be a +contraction of the Kongkodu, the mountain-land described by Mungo Park. +Messieurs J. Zweifel and M. Moustier, [Footnote: _Expédition, C. A. +Verminck, Voyage aux Sources du Niger_. Marseille, 1880.] who did not +reach the Niger sources in 1879, explain 'Kong' as the Kissi name of the +line which trends from north-west to south-east, and which divides +Koronko-land from Kono-land. When nearing their objective they sighted the +Kong-apex, Mount Daro, measuring 1,240 mčtres. Older travellers make it a +latitudinal chain running nearly east-west, with its centre about the +meridian of Cape Coast Castle, and extending 500 to 600 miles on a +parallel of north latitude 7ş-8ş. Westward it bends north behind Cape +Palmas, and, like the Ghauts of Hindostan, follows the line of seaboard. I +have before noticed the traditions of Mount Geddia, an occidental +Kilima-njáro. About the parallel of Sierra Leone the feature splits into a +network of ranges, curves, and zigzags, which show no general trend. The +eastern faces here shed to the Niger, the western to the various streams +between the Rokel-Seli, the Gambia, and the Senegal; and the last northern +counterforts sink into the Sahará Desert. The western versant supplies the +gold of Senegambia, the southern that of Ashanti and Wásá. The superficial +dust is washed down by rains, floods, and rivers; and the dykes and veins +of quartz, mostly running north-south, are apparently connected with those +of the main range. + +That such a chain must exist is proved by the conduct of the Gold Coast +streams. The Ancobra, for instance, which often rises and falls from +twenty to forty feet in twenty-four hours, suggests that its sources +spring from an elevated plane at no great distance from the sea. The lands +south of the Kong Mountains are grassy and hilly with extensive plains. +This is known through the 'Donko slaves,' common on the coast. Many of +them come from about Salagha, the newly-opened mart upon the Upper Volta; +they declare that the land breeds ostriches and elephants, cattle and +camels, horses and asses. Moreover, it is visited by the northern peoples +who cross the Sahará. I have already noticed the grass-lands of Gyáman. + +Captain Clapperton, on his second journey, setting out from Badagry to +Busa (Boussa), crossed a hill-range which would correspond with the Kong. +It is described as about eighty miles broad, and is said to extend from +behind Ashanti to Benin. The traveller, who estimated the culminating +point not to exceed 2,600 feet, found the rugged passes hemmed in by +denticulated walls and tons of granite, 600 to 700 feet high, and +sometimes overhanging the path. The valleys varied in breadth from a +hundred yards to half a mile. A comparatively large population occupied +the mountain-recesses, where they planted fine crops of yams, millet, and +cotton. The strangers were made welcome at every settlement. Ascending +hill after hill, they came to Chaki, a large town on the very summit of +the ridge. The _caboceer_ had a house and a stock of provisions ready for +his guests, put many questions, and earnestly pressed them to rest for two +or three days. When the whole chain was crossed they fell into the plains +of 'Yaruba' (Yoruba). + +The next eye-witness is Mr. John Duncan, who visited Dahome in 1845. King +Gezo allowed him a guard of a hundred men, in order to explore with safety +the 'Mahi, or Kong Mountains.' His son and successor was not so generous; +he systematically and churlishly refused all travellers, myself included, +permission to pass northwards of his capital. The Lifeguardsman found the +chain, which is distant more than a hundred miles from Agbóme, differing +from his expectations in character, appearance, and even position. The +grand, imposing line looked from afar like colossal piles of ruins; a +nearer view showed immense blocks, some of them 200 feet long, egg-shaped +and lying upon their sides. Nearly all the settlements had chosen the +summits, doubtless for defence. Mr. Duncan crossed the whole breadth of +these 'Kong Mountains,' and pushed 180 miles beyond them over a level land +which must shed to the Niger. + +These descriptions denote a range of granite, the rock which forms the +ground-floor of the Sierra Leone peninsula and the Gold Coast, possibly +varied by syenites and porphyries. It would probably contain, like the +sea-subtending mountains of Midian, large veins of eminently metalliferous +quartz, outcropping from the surface and forming extensions of the reefs +below. From the coast-line the land gradually upslopes towards the spurs +of the great dividing ridge; and thus we may fairly expect that the +further north we go the richer will become the diggings. + +The Kong Mountains are apparently cut through by the Niger south of Iddah, +where the true coast begins. Travellers describe the features almost in +the words of Clapperton and Denham--the towering masses of granite which +contrast so strongly with the southern swamps; upstanding outcrops +resembling cathedrals and castellations in ruins; boulders like footballs +of enormous dimensions; pyramids a thousand feet high; and solitary cones +which rise like giant ninepins. We know too little of the lands lying +south-east of the confluence to determine the sequence of the chain, whose +counterforts may give rise to the Eastern 'Oil Rivers.' It is not +connected with the Peak of Camarones, round which Mr. Cumber, of the +Baptist Mission, travelled; and which he determined to be an isolated +block. Farther south the Ghauts of Western Africa reappeared as the Serra +do Crystal, and fringe the mighty triangle below the Equator. They are +suspected to be auriferous in places. An American merchant on the Gaboon +River, Captain Lawlin, carried home in 1843-44 a quantity of granular gold +brought to him by the country-traders. He returned to his station, +prepared to work the metals of the interior; but the people took the +alarm, and he failed to find the spot. + +Cameron and I, prevented by the late season of our landing from attempting +this interesting exploration, were careful to make all manner of enquiries +concerning the best _point de départ_, and if fate prevent our attempting +it we shall be happy to see some more favoured traveller succeed. The +easiest way would be to march upon Crockerville, two days by the Ancobra +River and three by land. The bush-paths, which would require widening for +hammocks, lead north through Wásá. There are many villages on the way, and +in places provisions can be procured; the people are peaceful and willing +to show or to make the path. At Axim I consulted a native guide who knew +the Kong village, but not the Kong Mountains. He made the distance six +marches to Safwi, where the grass-lands begin; and here he ascended a +hillock, seeing nothing but prairies to the north. Eight more stages, a +total of fourteen, led him to Gyáman, where he found horses and horsemen. +He also knew by hearsay the western route, _viâ_ Apollonian Béin. + +_c. Native Modes of Working Gold_. + +In all places, and at all times, gold, probably the metal first used by +man, has been worked in the same way. This is a fair evidence of that +instinctive faculty which produces a general resemblance of rude +stone-implements from England to Australia. There are six methods for +'getting' the precious metal--surfacing or washing; shallow-sinking; +sluicing, or removing the earth through natural and artificial channels; +deep sinking; tunnelling, and quartz-mining. + +The preceding notes show that the natives of the Gold Coast, and of West +Africa generally, are adepts at procuring their gold by 'surfacing,' +washing with the calabash or wooden bowl the rich alluvial formations that +underlie the top-soil. This is the rudest form of machinery, preceding in +California the cradle, the torn, and the sluice. Westerns made their pans +of brass or copper, about sixteen inches in diameter, and nearly two +inches deep in the middle where the gold gravitates. Panning in Africa is +women's work, and the process has been described in the preceding pages. + +But the natives, as has been shown, can also work quartz, an art well +known to the Ancient Egyptians. They either pick up detached pieces +showing visible gold, or they sink pits and nibble at the walls of the +reefs. But whereas the Nile-peoples pounded the stone in mortars and +washed the dust on sloping boards, here the matrix must be laboriously +levigated. A handful of broken quartz is placed upon the 'cankey-stone,' +with which the gudewife grinds her 'mealies.' It is a slightly hollowed +slab of granite or hard conglomerate, some two feet square, sloping away +from the worker, and standing upon a rude tripod of tree-branches secured +by a lashing of 'tie-tie.' The stuff is then rubbed with a hand-stone not +unlike a baker's roll, and a slight deviation is given to it as it moves +'fore and aft.' The reduced stone is caught in a calabash placed at the +lower end of the slab. This is usually night-work, and all the dark hours +will be wasted in grinding down a cubic foot of stone. + +The late M. Bonnat had probably read Mr. Andrew Swanzy's evidence before +the House of Commons in 1816: 'Gold is procured in every part of the +country; it appears more like an impregnation of the soil than a mine.' +His long captivity at Kumasi, where to a certain extent he learned the Oji +speech, familiarised him with the native processes; and thus a Frenchman +taught Englishmen to work gold in a golden land where they have been +domiciled--true _fainéants_--for nearly three centuries. He came out in +the Dries of 1877 with the intention of dredging the Ancobra River where +the natives dive for the precious metal. He was working in western Apinto, +a province of Wásá, under Kofi Blay, a vassal of King Kwábina Angu, when +he was visited (January 1878) by Major-General Wray, B.A., Colonel +Lightfoot, and Mr. Hervey, who were curious to see the work. They remained +only till the return of the mail-steamer, or about five weeks. The General +left with some first-rate sketches; the Colonel caught a fever, which +killed him at Madeira; and the Esquire, who bears a name well known in +Australia, returned to the Gold Coast for the purpose of writing not +unprofitable reports. M. Bonnat was presently informed of the Tákwá Ridge, +mines well known for a century at least to Cape Coast Castle, and ever the +principal source of the Axim currency. They were still worked in 1875 by +the people who drew their stores from Axim. A five-weeks' residence +convinced him that they were rich enough to attract capital; he went to +Europe, and was successful in raising it. Thus began the Tákwá mines, +where, by a kind of irony of Fate, the beginner was buried. + +M. Bonnat wisely intended to open operations with wet-working. At Axim I +was shown a model flume, made to order after the plans of a M. Boisonnet, +or, as he signs himself, 'boisonnet.' He was reported to be a large +landed-proprietor who had made a fortune by mining in French Guiana. He +proposed for M. Bonnat and himself to secure the monopoly of washing the +Protectorate with this flume--a veritable French toy, uselessly +complicated, and yet to be used only upon the smallest scale. We must go +for our models to California and Australia, not to French Guiana. + +The following will be the implements with which the natives of the future +must do their work on the Gold Coast:-- + +The pan begat the cradle, a wooden box on rockers, shaped like the article +which gave its name. It measures three feet and a half by eighteen inches, +and is provided with a movable hopper and slides. Placed in a sloping +position, it is worked to and fro by a perpendicular staff acting as +handle, and the grain-gold, a metal seven times heavier than granite, +collects where the baby should be. As some flour-gold is here found, the +cradle-bottom should be cut with cross-grooves to hold mercury; and the +latter must be tempered with sodium or other amalgam. + +The cradle begat Long Tom and Broad Tom, the 'tom' proper being the upper +box with a grating to keep out the pebbles. 'Long Tom's' body is a wooden +trough, from twelve to fourteen feet long by a foot or a foot and a half +broad, with ripples, riffles, or cross-bars. There is usually another +grating at the lower end to intercept the smaller stones. The machine is +fixed in a gently sloping position, at an angle determined by +circumstances; the wash-dirt is lifted into the upper end by manual +labour; when stiff it must be stirred or shovelled, and a stream of water +does the rest. The greater gravity of the gold causes it to be arrested by +the riffles. Instead of the bars grooves may be cut and filled with +quicksilver. When the sludge is very rich, rough cloths rubbed with +mercury, or even sheepskins, the lineal descendants of the Golden Fleece, +may be used, 'Broad Tom,' _alias_ the 'Victoria Jenny Lind,' is made about +half the length of its long brother: the upper end is only a foot wide, +broadening out to three below. + +'Tom' begat the sluice, which is of two kinds, natural and artificial. The +former is a ditch cut in the floor, with a _talus_ of one to forty or +fifty. The bottom, which would soon wear away, is revetted with rough +planks and paved with hard stones, weighing ten to twenty pounds, the +grain being placed vertically. With a full head of water 400 cubic yards a +day can easily be washed. The gold, as usual, gravitates through the +chinks to the bottom, and finally is cradled or panned out. It is most +efficiently treated when the sluice is long; it demands six times more +water than the artificial article, but it wants less manual labour. This +last property should recommend it to the Gold Coast. Here, I repeat, +machinery must be used as much and manual labour as little as possible. + +The artificial or portable box-sluice is a series of troughs each about +twelve feet long, like the upper compartment of 'Long Tom.' They are made +of half-inch boards, rough from the saw, the lower end being smaller to +fit into its prolongation. Each compartment is provided with a loose metal +bottom pierced with holes to admit the dust; the true bottom below it has +cross-riffles, and above it are bars or gratings to catch the coarser +stones. These sluices are mounted on trestles, and the latter are disposed +upon a slope determined by the quantity of water: the average fall or +grade may be 1 to 50. In Australia four men filling a 'Long Tom,' or +raised box-sluice, will remove and wash twenty-four cubic yards of ground +per day. When the ore is fine, mercury may be dropped into the upper end +of the sluice; and it picks up the particles, 'tailing,' as it goes, +before the two metals have run far down. Both stop at the first riffle or +resting-place. + +The auriferous clays of the Gold Coast are thinly covered with humus, and +are not buried, as in Australia, by ten to thirty feet of unproductive +top-drift. The whole, therefore, can be run through the sluices before we +begin mining the underlying strata. Washing will be easier during the +Rains, when the dirt is looser; in the Dries hard and compact stuff must +be loosened by the pick and spade or by blasting. There will not be much +loss by float-gold, flour-gold, or paint-gold, the latter thus called +because it is so fine as to resemble gilding. Spangles and specks are +found; but the greater part of the dust is granular, increasing to 'shotty +gold.' The natives divide the noble ore into 'dust-gold' and +'mountain-gold.' The latter would consist of nuggets, 'lobs,' or pépites, +and of crystals varying in size from a pin's head to a pea. The form is a +cube modified to an octahedron and a rhombic dodecahedron. These rich +finds are usually the produce of pockets or 'jewellers' shops.' I am not +aware if there be any truth in the rule generally accepted: 'The forms of +gold are found to differ according to the nature of the underlying rock: +if it is slate the grains are cubical; if granite they are flat plates and +scales.' + +And, lastly, the sluice begat the jet, or hydraulicking proper, which is +at present the highest effort of placer-mining. We thus reverse the +primitive process which carried the wash-dirt to the water; we now carry +the water to the wash-dirt. In California I found the miners washing down +loose sandstones and hillocks of clay, passing the stuff through sluices, +and making money when the gold averaged only 9_d_. and even 4_d_. to the +ton. A man could work under favourable circumstances twenty to thirty tons +a day. An Australian company, mentioned by Mr. R. Brough Smyth, with 200 +inches of water, directed by ten hands, 'hydraulicked' in six days 224,000 +cubic feet of dirt. The results greatly vary; in some places a man will +remove 200 cubic yards a day, and in others only 50. + +Hydraulic mining on the Gold Coast, owing to the conformation of the +country, will be a far simpler and less expensive process than in +California or Australia. In the latter water has first to be bought, and +then to be brought in pipes, flumes, leats, or races from a considerable +distance, sometimes extending over forty miles. It is necessary to make a +reservoir for a fall. The water then rushes through the flexible hose, and +is directed by a nozzle against the face of the excavation. The action is +that of a fireman playing upon a burning house. Most works on mining +insist upon those reservoirs, and never seem to think of washing from +below by the force-pump. + +I have shown that the surface of the lands adjoining the Ancobra is a +series of hummocks, rises, and falls, sometimes, though rarely, reaching +200 feet; that water abounds, and that it is to be had gratis. In every +bottom there is a drain, sometimes perennial, but more often a blind gully +or creek, [Footnote: The gully feeds a 'creek,' the creek a river.] which +runs only during the Rains, and in the Dries carries at most a succession +of pools. Here Norton's Abyssinian tubes, sunk in the bed after it has +been carefully worked by the steam-navvy for the rich alluvium underlying +the surface, would act like pumps, and dams would form huge tanks. Nor +would there be any difficulty in making reservoirs upon the ridge-tops, +with launders, or gutters, to collect the rain. Thus work would continue +throughout the year, and not be confined, as at present, to the dry +season. A pressure of 100 to 200 lbs. per square foot can easily be +obtained, and the force of the jet is so great that it will kill a man on +the spot. The hose should be of heavy duck, double if necessary, rivetted +and strengthened by metal bands or rings--in fact, the crinoline-hose of +Australia. Leather would be better, but hard to repair in case of +accidents by rats; guttapercha would be expensive, and perhaps thin metal +tubes with flexible joints may serve best. The largest hose carried by +iron-clads measures 19 to 20 inches in diameter, and is worked by 30 to 40 +horse-power. Other vessels have a 15-inch hose worked by manual labour, +fifty men changed every ten minutes, and will throw the jet over the royal +yards of a first-class man-of-war. The floating power-engines attached to +the Dockyard reserves would represent the articles required. + +With a diameter of from ten to fifteen inches, and a nozzle of three to +four inches, a 'crinoline-hose' will throw a stream a hundred feet high +when worked by the simplest steam-power process, and tear down a hill +more rapidly than a thousand men with shovels. The cost of washing +gravel, sand, and clay did not exceed in our colonies 1_d._ to 2_d._ per +ton; and thus the working expenses were so small that 4_d._ worth of +gold to the ton of soft stuff paid a fair profit. Lastly, there is +little danger to the miner; and this is an important consideration. + +It is well known that California was prepared for agriculture and +viticulture by 'hydraulicking' and other mining operations. It will be the +same with the Gold Coast, whose present condition is that of the +Lincolnshire fens and the Batavian swamps in the days of the Romans. Let +us only have a little patience, and with patience perseverance, which, +'dear my Lord, keeps honour bright.' The water-jet will soon clear away +the bush, washing down the tallest trees; it will level the ground and +will warp up the swamp till the surface assumes regular raised lines. We +run no risk of covering the face of earth with unproductive clay. Here the +ground is wanted only as a base for vegetation; sun and rain do all the +rest. And thus we may hope that these luxuriant wastes will be turned into +fields of bustling activity, and will tell the tale of Cameron and me to a +late posterity. + +But gold is not the only metal yielded by the Gold Coast. I have already +alluded in the preceding pages to sundry silver-lodes said to have been +worked by the old Hollanders. As is well known, there is no African gold +without silver, and this fact renders the legend credible. Even in these +dullest of dull days 63,337_l_. worth was the export of 1880. Iron is +everywhere, the land is stained red with its oxide; and manganese with +cobalt has been observed. I have mentioned that at Akankon my companion +showed me a large vein of cinnabar. Copper occurs in small quantities with +tin. This metal is found in large veins streaking the granite, according +to M. Dahse, who gave me a fine specimen containing some ten and a half +per cent. of metal. He has found as much as twelve per cent., when at home +2 to 2-1/2 per cent. pays. [Footnote: 'The present percentage of block-tin +derived from all the tin-ore ... of Cornwall is estimated at 2 per cent., +or nearly 45 lbs. to the ton of ore.'--Davies, p. 391.] The aspect of the +land is diamantiferous; [Footnote: I hear with the greatest pleasure that a +syndicate has been formed for working the diamond-diggings of Golconda, a +measure advocated by me for many years. Suffice to say here that the +Hindús rarely went below 60 feet, because they could not unwater the mine, +and that the Brazilian finds his precious stones 280 feet below the +surface. Moreover the Indian is the only true diamond: the Brazilian is a +good and the Cape a bad natural imitation.] and it has been noticed that a +crystal believed to be a diamond has been found in auriferous gravel. In +these granitic, gneissose, and quartzose formations topazes, amethysts and +sapphires, garnets and rubies, will probably occur, as in the similar +rocks of the great Brazilian mining-grounds. The seed-pearl of the +Coast-oyster may be developed into a tolerable likeness of the far-famed +pear-shaped _Margarita_ of Arabian Katifah, which was bought by Tavernier +for the sum, then enormous, of 110,000_l_. + +Pearl-culture is an art now known even to the wild Arab fisherman of the +far Midian shore. Lastly, the humble petroleum, precious as silver to the +miner-world, has been found in the British Protectorate about New Town. + + + + +APPENDIX II. + +PART I. + +LIST OF BIRDS COLLECTED BY CAPTAIN +BURTON AND COMMANDER CAMERON. + +By R. BOWDLER SHARPE, F.L.S. + +Vulturine Sea-eagle. Gypohierax angolensis. +Osprey. Pandion haliaetus. +Touracou. Corythaix persa. +Red-headed Hornbill. Buceros elatus. +Black Hornbill. Tockus semifasciatus. +Red-throated Bee-eater. Meropiscus gularis. +Blue-throated Roller with Eurystomus afer. + yellow bill. +Kingfisher with black and red bill. Halcyon senegalensis. +Small Woodpecker. Dendropicus lugubris. +Sun-bird. Anthothreptes rectirostris. +Grey Flycatcher. (3 spec). Muscicapa lugens. +Dull olive-green Flycatcher with Hylia prasina. + pale eyebrow. 19. +Common Swallow. 33. Hirundo rustica. +Black Swallow with white throat. 30. Waldenia nigrita. +Grey-headed Wagtail. 22. Motacilla flava. +Black and chestnut Weaver-bird. 23. Hyphantornis castaneofuscas. +Turtle-dove. 15 Turtur semitorquatus. +Whimbrel. 5 Numenius phćopus. +Grey Plover. 13 Squatarola helvetica. +Common Sandpiper. 18 Tringoides hypoleucus. +Spur-winged Plover. 11 Lobivanellus albiceps. +Green Heron. 7 Butoides atricapilla. + + + +PART II. + +LIST OF PLANTS COLLECTED ON THE GOLD COAST BY CAPTAIN BURTON AND COMMANDER +CAMERON, R.N. + +(FURNISHED BY PROFESSOR OLIVER.) + +_A considerable number of specimens either in fruit only or fragmentary +were not identifiable._ + +Oncoba echinata, Oliv. +Hibiscus tiliaceus, L. + " Abelmoschus, L, +Glyphća grewioides, Hk. f. +Scaphopetalum sp. ? fruit. + +Gomphia reticulata, P. de B. + " Vogelii, Hk. f, + " aff. G. Mannii, Oliv. an sp. nov. ? +Bersama? sp. an B. maxima? _fruit only_ +Olaoinea? an Alsodeiopsis? _fruit only_ +Hippocratea macrophylla, V. +Leea sambucina, W. +Paullinia pinnata, L. +? Eriocoslum sp. (fruiting specimen). +Cnestis ferruginea, DC. +Pterocarpus esculentus, Sch. +Baphia nitida, Afz, +Lonchocarpus sp.? +Drepanocarpus lunatus, Mey. +Phaseolus lunatus? _imperfect_ +Dialium guineense, W, +Berlinia an B. acuminata? var. (2 forms.) +Berlinia (same?) in fruit. +Pentaclethramacrophylla, Bth. +Combretum racemosum, P. de B.? +Combretum comosum, Don. +Lagunoularia racemosa, Gaertn. +Begonia sp. flowerless. +Modecca sp. nov. ? flowerless. +Sesuvium Portulacastrum? barren. +Tristemma Schumacheri, G. and P. +Smeathmannia pubescens, R. Br. +Sabicea Vogelii, Benth. var. +Ixora sp. f +Rutidea membranacea? Hiern. +Randia acuminata? Bth. +Dictyandra ? sp. nov. +Urophyllum sp. Gardenia? sp. +Gardenia ? sp +Pavetta ? sp. +Canthium, cf. C. Heudelotii, cf. Virecta procumbens, Hiern.; Sm. +Seven imperfect Rubiaceć (Mussćndć, & c.). +Diospyros sp.? (corolla wanting). +Ranwolfia Senegambić, A. DC. +Tabernćmontana sp. in fruit. +Apocynacea, fragment, in fruit. +Two species of Strychnos in fruit: one with 1-seeded fruit singular and +probably new; the other a plant collected by Barter. +Ipomća paniculata, Br. +Physalis minima, L. +Datura Stramonium ? scrap. +Clerodendronscandens, Beauv. +Brillantaisia owariensis, Beauv. +Lankesteria Barteri, Hk. +Lepidagathis laguroidea, T. And. +Ocyinum viride, W. +Platystomum africanum, Beauv. +Brunnichia africana, Welw. +Teleianthera maritima, Moq. +Phyllanthus capillaris, Muell. Arg., var. +Alchornea cordata, Bth. (fruit). +Cyclostemon? sp. (in fruit only). +Ficus, 3 species. +Musanga Smithii ? (young leafy specimens). +Culcasia sp, (no inflorescence), +Anchomanes, cf. A. dubius (no attached inflorescence). +Anubias ? sp. (no inflorescence). +Palisota thyrsiflora? Bth. (imperfect). +Palisota prionostachys, C.B.C. + " bracteosa, C.B.C. +Pollia condensata, C.B.C. (fruit). +Aneilema ovato-oblongum, P. de B. +Aneilema beninense, Kth. +Crinum purpurascens, Herb. +Hćmanthus cinnabarinus? Denc. +Dracćna? sp. (fruit). + " (in fruit) aff. D. Cameroonianć, Bkr. +Flagellaria indica, L. +Cyrtopodium (? Cyrtopera longifolia, B.f.), no leaf. +Bulbophyllum ? sp. (no inflorescence). +Costus afer? Ker. +Trachycarpus (fruit) (= Vogel, no. 13). + +Phrynium brachystachyum, Körn. (fruit). +Cyperus distans, L. + " sp. + " cf. C. ligularis, L. +Mariscus umbellatus, V. +Panicum ovalifolium, P, de B. +Centotheca lappacea, Desv. +In fruit: a fragment, perhaps Anacardiacea. +Pteris (Campteria) biaurita, L. + " (Litobrochia) Burtoni, n. sp. 62. + +Pteris (Litobrochia) atrovirens, Willd. +Lonchitis pubescens, Willd. +Nephrolepis ramosa, Moore. + " acuta, Presl. +Nephrodium subquinquefidum, Hook. +Nephrodium, type and var, N. variabile, Hook. +Nephrodium pennigerum, Hook. +Nephrodium? sp. +Acrostichum sorbifolium, L. + " fluviatile, Hook. +Lygodium pinnatifidum, Sw. +Selaginella Vogelii, Spring. + " near anceps, A. Br.? + " near cathedrifolia Spring. + + + +FUNGI, NAMED BY Dr. M. C. COOKE. + +Lentinus sp. +Polyporus (Mesopus) heteromorphus, Lev. +Polyporus (Mesopus) acanthopus, Fr. +Polyporus (Pleuropus)lucidas, Fr. +Polyporus (Pleuropus) sanguineus, Fr. + +Polyporus (Placodermei) australis, Fr. +Polyporus (Placodermei) hemitephrus, Berh. +Trametes Carteri, Berk. + " occidentalis, Fr. +Dćdalea sangninea, Kl. +Hydnum nigrum? Fr. +Cladoderris dendritica, Pers. +Stereum sp. + +_The remainder not determinable._ + + + + +INDEX. + +[Transcriber's Note: This index applies to both volumes I and II +of this work. The entries in this text-ebook have only the volume +number, and not the page number.] + + +Abesebá, ii. +Abonsá (river), the, ii. +Abosu (mining village), ii. + the mine. +Africa, West, + proposed exchange of colonies between English and French, i. + trial by jury in, ii. + Amazon settlements. +African, characteristics of the 'civilised,' ii. + limited power of kings, + travelling, + Hades, + disinclination to agriculture. +'African Times,' the, character of its journalism, i. ; ii. +Ahema, discovery of a diamond at, ii. +Ahoho (ant), the, ii. +Ajámera, ii. +Aji Bipa (mine), general description of, ii. +Aka-kru, ii. +Akankon concession, the, + origin of name, ii. + mineral riches, + situation, + general description and capabilities, + native squabbles over title, + Cameron's scheme for its working and local establishment, + occupation suggested for the leisure of the mining staff, + working hours and food. +Akim, ii. +Akra, earthquake at, ii. +Akromási, ii. +Akus (tribe), the, ii. +Albreda, i. +Alligator-pear (_Pertea gratislima_), the, i. +Alta Vista (Mt. Atlas), i. +Ananse (silk spider), the, ii. +Ancobra (river), the, + origin of name, ii. +Anima-kru, ii. +Apankru, a 'great central depôt,' ii. +Apateplu (watch-bird), the, ii. +Apatim concession, the, capabilities of, ii. +Apó (chief), ii. +Apollonia, ii. +Apollonians (tribe), the, ii. +Arábokasu, ii. + situation of. +Ashanti, the 'scare' from, ii. + treaties with England, + Sir Garnet Wolseley's settlement only a partial success, + the royal place of human sacrifice, + her exclusion from the seaboard, + real and pretended causes of discontent, + the English Government's preparations to meet the 'imminent' invasion, + the King's excuses, + a mission of peace, + power and purport of the Gold Axe, + surrender of a false axe, + advocacy of a 'beach' for the Ashantis. +Assini (river), the, ii. +Atalaya (Canaries), and its troglodytic population, i. +Athole Hock, the, ii. +Axim, Port, + picturesque aspect of, ii. + the fort, + dispensary, + tomb of a Dutch governor, + climate, + the town, + poisonous pools, + paradoxes of prison life, + social phases, + characteristics of inhabitants, + peculiarities of personal names, + a negro 'king,' + his suite, + native swords, + native music, + 'compliments' to African chiefs, + geological notes, + stone implements, + revenue, + postal communication, + 'the threshold of the Gold-region,' + gold gathering, + hints on gold-mining, + fetish, + departure of caravan from, + cost of transport at, + cocoa-trees, + lagoonland, + the 'Winding Water,' + the bars of the river. + +Ball, a native, ii. +Bamboo-palm (_Raphia rigifera_), the, ii. +Bambúk mines, the, ii. +Bance (Bence's Island), i. +Bassam (Grand), ii. +Bathurst, physical formation, i. + history, + graveyard, + general aspect, + its 'one compensating feature,' + the black health officer, + commissariat quarters, + reminiscences respecting, + inhabitants, + dress, + religion, + horses, + the Wólof, the only native tongue spoken by Europeans, + the 'African Times,' + Chinese coolie labour advocated, + administrative expenses, + exports. +Beds, African, ii. +Béin, origin of name, ii. + the fort, +Birds, list of, collected by Capt. Burton and Commander Cameron, ii. +Black Devil Society (Liberia), ii. +Blake, Admiral Robert, at Tenerife, i. +Blay, King, state visit of, ii. + his guest-house, + costume, + served with a writ, + his inflamed foot attributed to fetish, + property in mines, + loyalty to British Government. +Bobowusúa (a fetish-island), ii. +Boma (fetish-drum), the, ii. +Bombax-trees (_Puttom Ceiba_), i.; ii. +Bonnat, M., ii. +Bosomato, ii. +Bottomless Pit (Little Bassam), the, ii. +Boutoo, etymology of, i. +Brackenbury, Capt., on the capabilities of the Gold Coast, ii. +Brezo (_Erica arborea_), the, i. +Bristol barque trade, the, on the West African coast, i. +Brovi (hardest wood), ii. +Bulama (colony), Capt. Beaver's description of, i. +Bulloms (tribe), i. +Butabué rapids, the, ii. + +Calabar-Bean (_Physostigma venenosum_), ii. +Caldera de Bandana (Grand Canary), i. +Camara dos Lobos, i. +Cameron, Commander, his track and researches along the Gold Coast; i., ii. + personal account of further visits to the goldmines. +Cańádas del Pico, Las, geological formation of; i. + flora, + average temperature. +Canarian Triquetra, the, i. +Canaries, the, cock-fighting at; i. + wine trade. +Canary-bird (_Fringilla Canaria_) the, i. +Canary (wine), i. +Cankey-stones, ii. +Cape Apollonia, origin of its name, ii. +Cape Girăo, i. + Mount, + Palmas, + St. Mary, + Verde, derivation of name. +Capirote, or Tinto Negro (_Sylvia aticapilla_), the, i. +Cavally (river), the, ii. +Cephalonia, i. +Chasma, origin of, i. +Chigo (_Pulex penetrans_), the, ii. +Chinese coolie labour, ii. +Cinnabar vein, the, at Akankon, ii. +Cleanliness in W. African villages, ii. +Cochineal, ii. +Cocoa-tree, the, ii. +Codeso (_Adenocarpus frankenoides_), the, i. +Crannog, a, i. +Crockerville concession, description of the, ii. + tables of temperature, &c. at. +Cueva de Hielo, the, i. +Curlew (_Numenius arquata_), ii. +Custard-apple (_Anona squamosa_), i. + +Dahse concession, the, ii. +Dakar, harbour of, i. +Desertas, the, i. +Diamonds, ii. +Divining-rod, the, used in goldmining, ii. +Dixcove, ii. +Dorimas (Grand Canary), i. +Dos Idolos, i. +Dragoeiro (_Dracoena Draco_, Linn.), the, i. +Dragon-tree, the Tenerife, i. +Drake, Sir Francis, inscription at Sierra Leone attributed to him, ii. +Drewins, the, ii. +Dum (_Oldfieldia africana_), the, ii. + +Ebiásu, i. +Ebumesu (river), ii. +Eden, Dr., his account of the Guanches of Tenerife, i. +Effuenta mine, the, ii. +Elephants, ii. +Elisa Cartago, ii. +El-Islam, spread of, on the Gold Coast, ii. +Elmina, ii. +El Pilon, i. +Enfrámadié, ii. +Eshánchi (chief), ii. +Essuá-tí, Mr. McCarthy's visit to, ii. +Esubeyah, ii. + +Felfa (_Gatropha curoas_), the, ii. +Fetish, i., ii. +Fetish-pot, the, i. +Fish-trap, an African, ii. +Fiume, i. +Fort James, i. +France as a colonising power, i., + proposed exchange of her West African Colonies with England. +Freetown, ii. +French colonisation _versus_ English, i. +Fresco-land, ii. +Fuerteventura, i. +Funchal, i. + +Gallinas (river), the, ii. +Gallo (fighting-cook), the, i. + at the Canaries. +Gambia (river), the, ii. + the French on the. +Garajáo (Madeira), physical formation of, ii. +Garraway trees, the, ii. +Gibraltar, physical outline of, i. + from English and Spanish points of view. +Gold Axe, the Ashanti, powers and purport of the symbol, ii. +Gold Coast, Captain Brackenbury on the, ii. + Mining Company, Limited, the. +Gold-digging in N.W. Africa, i. + origin and history, + description of the best known gold provinces, + gold signs, + estimate of the gold supply. +Gold-region, the threshold of the, i. +Gold-weights, African, i. +Gold-working, development of the modes of, ii. +Goree, i. +Grand Bassá (Liberia), ii. +Grand Canary, i. + early attacks on, + description of the cathedral of Las Palmas, + the old palace of the Inquisition, + Hispano-Englishmen of Las Palmas, + excursions, + physical conformation and general view of, + dress of inhabitants, + troglodytic populations, + cochineal culture, + fluctuations in cochineal commerce, + wine culture. +Grand Curral (Madeira), the, i. +Grand Devil, the, of Krúland, ii. +Grand Tabú (island), ii. +Granton (Akankon), description of, ii. +Grebo war, the, ii. +Ground-hog, i. +Ground-nut (_Arackis hypogaea_), i. +Guanches (of Tenerife), their mummification of the dead, i. + inscriptions, + derivation of the name, + the Guanche pandemonium. +Guinea, peach (_Sarcophalus esculentus_), the, ii. +Gyáman, history of, ii. + +Hades, an African, ii. +Hahinni (_formica_), the, ii. +Harmatan (wind), origin of name, i. +Hierro, Numidio inscriptions of, i. +Hispano-Englishmen, i. +Hornbill (_Buccros_), the, ii. +Hydraulicking, ii. + +Iboes (tribe), the, ii. +Ice-cave, an, i. +Ingotro concession, approach to the, ii. + size, + native shafts in the valley of the Námoá, + origin of name, + the country 'impregnated with gold,' + climatal considerations. +Insimankáo concession, the, ii. + situation of, + size and geographical position. +Inyoko concession, size and site, ii. + its geography and geology, + prospects. +Ionian Islands, i. +Islamism, progress of, in Africa, ii. +Izrah concession, the, ii. + derivation of name, + dimensions and site, + history, + conflicting native claims, + diary kept at the diggings, + birds, + idleness of native workmen, + geographical bearings, + formally made over by King Blay, + favourable prospects. + +James Island, i. +Japanese medlar (_Eriobotrya japonica_), the, i. +Jennings, Admiral, repulse of, in an attack on Tenerife, i. +Jervis, Admiral, failure of, before Tenerife, i. +Jungle-cow (or Nyaré antelope, _Bosbrachyceros_), the, ii. +Jyachabo (silver-stone), ii. + +Kikam, ii. +Kingfisher (_alcedo_), the, ii. +King's Croom (mining village), ii. +Kokobené-Akitáki (mine), ii. +Kola-nuts (_Sterculia acuminata_), i. +Kong Mountains, ii. +Krumen, characteristics of the, ii. +Kumasi, origin of name, ii, +Kum-Brenni, origin of name, ii. +Kumprasi, ii. +Kwábina Bosom (fetish rocks), ii. +Kwábina Sensensé (African chief), ii. +Kwansakru, a women's gold-mining village, ii. + +Labour, in West Africa, ii. + disinclination of natives to work, + influence of the decline of population on, + dearth of, + Stanley's observations, + superiority of native women to men as labourers, + estimate of the respective value of the various tribes as labourers, + wages paid to natives, + coolie immigration advocated. +Lagoon-land, ii. +Lake village, a, i. +Las Palmas, i. +Liberia, colonisation of, ii. + india-rubber and coffee produce, + 'the Black Devil Society', + progress of Islamism, + disinclination of natives to agriculture, + gold at. +Lightning-stones, ii. +Lisbon, material progress of, i. +Logan, Sir William, on 'hydraulicking', ii. +Lugar do Baixo, i. + +Machico, i. +Machim's Cross, i. +Madeira, first sight of, i. + conflicting claims of discoverers, + early accounts of, + physical contrasts with Porto Santo, + views of geologists on, + climate, + excursions, + contrasts of southern and northern coasts, + peasantry, + dress of peasants, + domestic life, + religious superstitions and morality, + emigration from, + geographical and geological characteristics, + Christmas at, + demeanour of priests at service, + amusements, + considered as a sanatorium, + sugar cultivation, + 'la petite industrie,' + tobacco, + pine-apples, + wines, + governmental shortcomings, + commerce. +Madeiran archipelago, the, geographical distribution of, i. + climate, + cedar-tree (_Jumperus Oxeycedrus_), the. +Mahogany (_Oldfieldia africana_), ii. +Mandenga (snake), the, i. +Mandengas (tribe), ii. +McCarthy, Mr. E. L., his visit to Essuá-ti, ii. +Messina, i. +Money, African, i. +Monrovia, ii. +Moslem Krambos (talisman and charm writers), ii. +Mount Atlas, height of, i. + routine ascent of, + flora, + geology, + zones of vegetation, + characteristics of snow, + extinct volcanoes, + height of the Pike. +Mount Geddia, ii. +Mount Mesurado, the 'cradle of Liberia,' ii. +Muka concession, the, i. +Mummies, i. + +Nahalo (a women's village), ii. +Negro passengers on board the 'Senegal,' i. + idiosyncrasies of, + their 'pidgin English,' + school. +Nelson, Admiral, his repulse in an attack on Tenerife, i. +Newtown, ii. +Níbá, i. +Nicknames, ii. +Nkran (formica), ii. +Nopal or Tunal plant (_Opuntia Tuna_ or _Cactus cochinellifer_), i. +Numidic inscriptions, i. + +Occros (_Hibiscus_), the, ii. +Oil-palm (_Elais guineënsis_), ii. +Oji, etymology of, ii. +Ore, cost of reducing, ii. +Orotava, i. +Osprey (_Halićtus_), the, ii. +Osráman-bo (lightning-stones), ii. + +Palm-birds (_Orioles_), ii. +Palm-wine, ii. +Palmyra (_Borassus flabelliformis_), the, ii. +Papaw, the, ii. +Patras, i. +Payne, Bishop, ii. +Pearl-culture, ii. +Pico del Pilon, the, i. +Pico Ruivo, i. +Pile-dwellings, i. +Pino del Dornajito, the, i. +Plants, list of, collected by Capt. Burton and Commander Cameron, ii. +Poké Islet, ii. +Polyandry, i. +Ponta do Sol, i. +Porto Loko, ii. +Porto Santo, i. +Prince's river, ii. + geographical aspect, + gold signs, + a true lagoon-stream, + animal life, + fish, + luxuriance of vegetation, + shifting aspects and bends of the river, + mining grounds, + idiosyncrasies of native travelling, + collecting plants, + insect pests, + Prince's fort, + local fetish. +Puerto de la Luz, i. + +Retama (_Cytisus fragrans_, Lam), the, i. + +San Christobal de la Laguna, i. +Sanguis Draiconis, i. +Sánmá, i. +Santa Cruz (Madeira), i. +Santa Cruz (Tenerife), i. +Săo Joăo do Principe, i. +Senegambia, French colonisation in, i. +Sickness on the West Coast of Africa, ii. + its remedies, + Tinctura Warburgii. +Sierra Leone, situation and aspect of, ii. + geological formation, + its only antiquity--Drake's inscription, + washerwomen, + St. George's Cathedral, + the market, + fruits, + vegetables, + meat, + leather, + snakes, + plan of the 'city', + climate, + clothing and diet suitable for, + rainy season, + the 'Kissy' road, + history of, + abolition of slavery, + its four colonies, + the Sierra Leone Company, + rival races of the Aku and Ibo, + trial by jury, + religious establishments, + negro psalmody, + negro education, + influence of the Moslem faith on the negro character, + journalism, + population, + native character, + bad influence of the colony, + a 'peddling' people, + agriculture, + the true system of negro education, + Chinese coolie labour advocated, + Stanley's observations on the natives', + disinclination to agriculture. +Sisaman (the African Hades), ii. +Slavery, notes on, ii. +Snakes, ii. +Spanish account of the repulse of Nelson from Santa Cruz de Tenerife, i. +Spiders, native beliefs concerning, ii. +Spur-plover (_Lobivanellus albiceps_), the, ii. +Stanley's, Mr., observations on the African labour question, ii. +St. John concession, the, ii. +St. Mary Bathurst, i. +Stone implements, ii. +Su, the African radical of water, ii. +Sulaymá river, the, ii. +Sulphur, on Mount Atlas, analysis of, i. +Susus (tribe), the, i. +Swallow (_Wardenia nigrita_), the, ii. +Swanzy establishment, the, ii. +Swords, i. + +Tábayba (_Euphorbia canariensis_), the, ii. +Tagus, the, i. +Tákwá, i. + character of its inhabitants, + geology. +Tamsoo-Mewoosoo mine, the, ii. +Tartessus, i. +Tasso Island, i. +Tebribi Hill (mine), ii. +Telde (Grand Canary), i. +Tenerife, i. + material progress of, + aridity, + religious establishments, + general aspect of streets, + Guanche mummies, + ancient implements and dress, + range of civilisation of the Guanches, + ancient inscriptions, + Guanche skulls, + catacombs, + dwellings of the Guanches, + powers of the Guanches as swimmers, + polyandry, + derivation of the name Guanche, + derivation of the name Tenerife, + language, + dress and personal appearance of inhabitants, + Irish immigration to, + hotel diet, + Jardin de Aclimatacion, + routine ascent of Mount Atlas, + geological formation, + volcanic type, + flora, + snow, + volcanoes, + height of Mount Atlas, + Admirals Blake, Jennings, and Jervis's defeats, + Nelson's repulse, + tobacco culture, + fighting-cocks, + wine. +Teyde, i. +Til-trees (_Oreodaphne foetens_), i. +Timnis (tribe), the, i. +Tinctura Warburgii, ii. +Tiya (_P. canariensis_), the, i. +Trade-gin, ii. +Troglodytic populations, i. +Tsetze-fly (_Glossinia morsitans_), the, i. +Tsil-fui-fui-fui (bird), the, ii. +Tumento, meaning of name, ii. + the 'grand central depôt,' + Cameron's illness at, + geographical position of. + +Vái (tribe), ii. +Venice, i. +Vulture (Gypohierax angolensis), the, ii. + +Wages, scale of, on Gold Coast, ii. +Warry (a native game), ii. +Wásawahili (tribe), the, ii. +Wilberforce memorial, the, at Sierra Leone, i. +'Willyfoss' (Wilberforce) nigger, a, ii. +Winwood Reade, cited, ii. +Wólof, the, tongue spoken by Europeans, i. +Wólofs (tribe), the, i. +Wolseley, Sir Garnet, at Ashanti, ii. +Women's gold-mining village, a, ii. + +Zante, i. +Zodiacal light, the, i. + +THE END + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of To The Gold Coast for Gold, Vol. II, by +Richard Francis Burton and Verney Lovett Cameron + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TO THE GOLD COAST FOR GOLD *** + +***** This file should be named 18506-8.txt or 18506-8.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/1/8/5/0/18506/ + +Produced by Carlo Traverso, S.R. 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Burton and Verney Lovett Cameron + </title> + + <style type="text/css" xml:space="preserve"> + body { margin:5%; background:#faebd0; text-align:justify} + P { text-indent: 1em; margin-top: .75em; margin-bottom: .75em; } + H1,H2,H3,H4,H5,H6 { text-align: center; margin-left: 15%; margin-right: 15%; } + hr { width: 50%; text-align: center;} + .foot { margin-left: 5%; margin-right: 5%; text-align: justify; font-size: 80%; font-style: italic;} + blockquote {font-size: 97%; font-style: italic; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%;} + .mynote {background-color: #DDE; color: #000; padding: .5em; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 95%;} + .toc { margin-left: 10%; margin-bottom: .75em;} + .toc2 { margin-left: 20%;} + .xx-small {font-size: 60%;} + .x-small {font-size: 75%;} + .small {font-size: 85%;} + .large {font-size: 115%;} + .x-large {font-size: 130%;} + .indent5 { margin-left: 5%;} + .indent10 { margin-left: 10%;} + .indent15 { margin-left: 15%;} + .indent20 { margin-left: 20%;} + .indent25 { margin-left: 25%;} + .indent30 { margin-left: 30%;} + .indent35 { margin-left: 35%;} + .indent40 { margin-left: 40%;} + div.fig { display:block; margin:0 auto; text-align:center; } + div.middle { margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%; text-align: justify; } + .figleft {float: left; margin-left: 0%; margin-right: 1%;} + .figright {float: right; margin-right: 0%; margin-left: 1%;} + .pagenum {position: absolute; right: 1%; font-size: 0.6em; + font-variant: normal; font-style: normal; + text-align: right; background-color: #FFFACD; + border: 1px solid; padding: 0.3em;text-indent: 0em;} + .side { float: left; font-size: 75%; width: 15%; padding-left: 0.8em; + border-left: dashed thin; text-align: left; + text-indent: 0; font-weight: bold; font-style: italic; + font-weight: bold; color: black; background: #eeeeee; border: solid 1px;} + .head { float: left; font-size: 90%; width: 98%; padding-left: 0.8em; + border-left: dashed thin; text-align: center; + text-indent: 0; font-weight: bold; font-style: italic; + font-weight: bold; color: black; background: #eeeeee; border: solid 1px;} + p.pfirst, p.noindent {text-indent: 0} + span.dropcap { float: left; margin: 0 0.1em 0 0; line-height: 0.8 } + pre { font-style: italic; font-size: 90%; margin-left: 10%;} +</style> + </head> + <body> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + +The Project Gutenberg EBook of To The Gold Coast for Gold, Vol. II, by +Richard Francis Burton and Verney Lovett Cameron + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: To The Gold Coast for Gold, Vol. II + A Personal Narrative + +Author: Richard Francis Burton and Verney Lovett Cameron + +Release Date: June 5, 2006 [EBook #18506] +Last Updated: December 19, 2018 + + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TO THE GOLD COAST FOR GOLD *** + + + + +Etext roduced by Carlo Traverso, S.R. Ellison, and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net. (This +file was produced from images generously made available +by the Bibliothčque nationale de France (BnF/Gallica) at +http://gallica.bnf.fr). + +HTML file produced by David Widger + + +</pre> + <div style="height: 8em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h1> + TO THE GOLD COAST FOR GOLD + </h1> + <h3> + <i>A Personal Narrative</i> + </h3> + <h2> + By Richard F. Burton and Verney Lovett Cameron + </h2> + <h3> + In Two Volumes—Vol. II. + </h3> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <p> + <b>CONTENTS</b> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0001"> <b>TO THE GOLD COAST FOR GOLD.</b> </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0001"> CHAPTER XII. — THE SÁ LEONITE AT HOME AND + ABROAD. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0002"> CHAPTER XIII. — FROM SÁ LEONE TO CAPE + PALMAS. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0003"> CHAPTER XIV. — FROM CAPE PALMAS TO AXIM. + </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0004"> CHAPTER XV. — AXIM, THE GOLD PORT OF THE + PAST AND THE FUTURE. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0005"> CHAPTER XVI. — GOLD ABOUT AXIM, ESPECIALLY + AT THE APATIM OR BUJIÁ CONCESSION. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0006"> CHAPTER XVII. — THE RETURN—VISIT TO + KING BLAY; ATÁBO AND BÉIN. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0007"> CHAPTER XVIII. — THE IZRAH MINE—THE + IKYOKO CONCESSION—THE RETURN TO AXIM. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0008"> CHAPTER XIX. — TO PRINCE'S RIVER AND BACK. + </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0009"> CHAPTER XX. — FROM AXIM TO INGOTRO AND + AKANKON. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0010"> CHAPTER XXI. — TO TUMENTO, THE 'GREAT + CENTRAL DEPÔT.' </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0011"> CHAPTER XXII. — TO INSIMANKÁO AND THE + BUTABUÉ RAPIDS. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0012"> CHAPTER XXIII. — TO EFFUENTA, CROCKERVILLE, + AND THE AJI BIPA HILL. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0013"> CHAPTER XXIV. — TO THE MINES OF ABOSU, OF + THE 'GOLD COAST,' AND OF THE TÁKWÁ </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0014"> CHAPTER XXV. — RETURN TO AXIM AND DEPARTURE + FOR EUROPE. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_CONC"> CONCLUSION. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_APPE"> APPENDIX I </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0018"> §1. THE ASHANTI SCARE. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0019"> §2. THE LABOUR-QUESTION IN WESTERN AFRICA. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0020"> §3. GOLD-DIGGING IN NORTH-WESTERN AFRICA. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_APPE2"> APPENDIX II. — PART I. — LIST OF BIRDS + COLLECTED BY CAPTAIN </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0022"> INDEX. </a> + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0001" id="link2H_4_0001"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h1> + TO THE GOLD COAST FOR GOLD. + </h1> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0001" id="link2HCH0001"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XII. — THE SÁ LEONITE AT HOME AND ABROAD. + </h2> + <p> + In treating this part of the subject I shall do my best to avoid + bitterness and harsh judging as far as the duty of a traveller—that + of telling the whole truth—permits me. It is better for both writer + and reader to praise than to dispraise. Most Englishmen know negroes of + pure blood as well as 'coloured persons' who, at Oxford and elsewhere, + have shown themselves fully equal in intellect and capacity to the white + races of Europe and America. These men afford incontestable proofs that + the negro can be civilised, and a high responsibility rests upon them as + the representatives of possible progress. But hitherto the African, as + will presently appear, has not had fair play. The petting and pampering + process, the spirit of mawkish reparation, and the coddling and + high-strung sentimentality so deleterious to the tone of the colony, were + errors of English judgment pure and simple. We can easily explain them. + </p> + <p> + The sad grey life of England, the reflection of her climate, has ever + welcomed a novelty, a fresh excitement. Society has in turn lionised the + <i>marmiton</i>, or assistant-cook, self-styled an 'Emir of the Lebanon;' + the Indian 'rajah,' at home a <i>munshi</i>, or language-master; and the + 'African princess,' a slave-girl picked up in the bush. It is the same + hunger for sensation which makes the mob stare at the Giant and the + Savage, the Fat Lady, the Living Skeleton, and the Spotted Boy. + </p> + <p> + Before entering into details it will be necessary to notice the history of + the colony—an oft-told tale; yet nevertheless some parts will bear + repetition. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + [Footnote: The following is its popular chronology:— + 1787. First settlers (numbering 460) sailed. + 1789. Town burnt by natives (1790?). + 1791. St. George's Bay Company founded. + 1792. Colonists (1,831) from Nova Scotia. + 1794. Colony plundered by the French. + 1800. Maroons (560) from Jamaica added. + 1808. Sá Leone ceded to the Crown; 'Cruits' introduced. + 1827. Direct government by the Crown.] +</pre> + <p> + According to Pčre Labat, the French founded in 1365 Petit Paris at + 'Serrelionne,' a town defended by the fort of the Dieppe and Rouen + merchants. The official date of the discovery is 1480, when Pedro de + Cintra, one of the gentlemen of Prince Henry 'the Navigator,' visited the + place, after his employer's death A.D. 1463. In 1607 William Finch, + merchant, found the names of divers Englishmen inscribed on the rocks, + especially Thos. Candish, or Cavendish, Captain Lister, and Sir Francis + Drake. In 1666 the Sieur Villault de Bellefons tells us that the river + from Cabo Ledo, or Cape Sierra Leone, had several bays, of which the + fourth, now St. George's, was called <i>Baie de France</i>. This seems to + confirm Pčre Labat. I have noticed the Tasso fort, built by the English in + 1695. The next account is by Mr. Surveyor Smith, [Footnote: He is + mentioned in the last chapter.] who says 'it is not certain when the + English became masters of Sierra Leone, which they possessed unmolested + until Roberts the pirate took it in 1720.' Between 1785 and 1787 + Lieutenant John Matthews, R.N., resided here, and left full particulars + concerning the export slave-trade, apparently the only business carried on + by the British. + </p> + <p> + Modern Sá Leone is the direct outcome of Lord Chief Justice Mansfield's + memorable decision delivered in the case of Jas. Somerset <i>v</i>. Mr. + James G. Stewart, his master. 'The claim of slavery never can be + supported; the power claimed never was in use here or acknowledged by + law.' This took place on June 21, 1772; yet in 1882 the Gold Coast is not + wholly free. [Footnote: Slavery was abolished on the Gold Coast by royal + command on December 7, 1874; yet the <i>Gold Coast Times</i> declares that + domestic slavery is an institution recognised by the law-courts of the + Protectorate.] + </p> + <p> + Many 'poor blacks,' thrust out of doors by their quondam owners, flocked + to the 'African's friend,' Granville Sharp, and company. Presently a + charitable society, with a large command of funds and Jonas Hanway for + chairman, was formed in London; and our people, sorely sorrowing for their + newly-found sin, proposed a colony founded on philanthropy and free labour + in Africa. Sá Leone was chosen, by the advice of Mr. Smeathman, an old + resident. In 1787 Captain Thompson, agent of the St. George's Bay Company, + paid 30<i>l</i>. to the Timni chief, Naimbana, <i>alias</i> King Tom, for + the rocky peninsula, extending twenty square miles from the Rokel to the + Ketu River. In the same year he took out the first batch of emigrants, 460 + black freed-men and about 60 whites, in the ship <i>Nautilus</i>, whose + history so far resembled that of the <i>Mayflower</i>. Eighty-four + perished on the journey, and not a few fell victims to the African climate + and its intemperance; but some 400 survived and built for themselves + Granville Town. These settlers formed the first colony. + </p> + <p> + In 1790 the place was attacked by the Timni tribe, to avenge the insult + offered to their 'King Jimmy' by the crew of an English vessel, who burnt + his town. The people dispersed, and were collected from the bush with some + difficulty by Mr. Falconbridge. This official was sent out from England + early in 1791, and his wife wrote the book. In the same year (1791) St. + George's Bay Company was incorporated under Act 31 Geo. III. c. 55 as the + 'Sierra Leone Company.' Amongst the body of ninety-nine proprietors the + foremost names are Granville Sharp, William Wilberforce, William Ludlam, + and Sir Richard Carr Glynn. They spent 111,500<i>l</i>. in establishing + and developing the settlement during the first ten and a half years of its + existence; and the directors organised a system of government, closely + resembling the British constitution, under Lieutenant Clarkson, R.N. + </p> + <p> + Next year the second batch of colonists came upon the stage. The negroes + who had remained loyal to England, and had been settled by the Government + in Nova Scotia, found the bleak land utterly unsuitable, and sent home a + delegate to pray that they might be restored to Africa. The directors + obtained free passage in sixteen ships for 100 white men and 1,831 + negroes. Led by Lieutenant Clarkson, they landed upon the Lioness range in + March (1792), after losing sixty of their number. + </p> + <p> + Bred upon maize and rice, bread and milk, the new comers sickened on + cassava and ground-nuts. They had no frame-houses, and the rains set in + early, about mid-May, before they had found shelter. The whites were + attacked with climate-fever, which did not respect even the doctors. + Quarrels and insubordination resulted, and 800 of the little band were + soon carried to the grave. Then a famine broke out. A ship from England, + freighted with stores, provisions, and frame-houses, was driven back by a + storm. Forty-five acres had been promised to each settler-family; it was + found necessary to diminish the number to four, and the denseness of the + bush rendered even those four unmanageable. Disgusted with Granville Town, + the new comers transferred themselves to the present site of Freetown, the + northern <i>Libreville</i>. + </p> + <p> + The Company offered annual premiums to encourage the building of + farm-houses, stock-rearing, and growing provisions and exportable produce. + Under Dr. Afzelius, afterwards Professor at Upsal, who first studied the + natural history of the peninsula, they established an experimental garden + and model farm. An English gardener was also employed to naturalise the + large collection of valuable plants from the East and West Indies and the + South Sea Islands supplied by Kew. The Nova Scotians, however, like true + slaves, considered agriculture servile and degrading work—a + prejudice which, as will be seen, prevails to this day not only in the + colony, but throughout the length and breadth of the Dark Continent. + </p> + <p> + Meanwhile war had broken out between England and France, causing the + frequent detention of vessels; and a store-ship in the harbour caught + fire, the precursor of a worse misfortune. On a Sunday morning, 1794, as + the unfortunates were looking out for the Company's craft (the <i>Harpy</i>), + a French man-of-war sailed into the roadstead, pillaged the 'church and + the apothecary's shop,' and burnt boats as well as town. The assailant + then wasted Granville, sailed up to Bance Island, and finally captured two + vessels, besides the long-expected <i>Harpy</i>. Having thus left his + mark, he disappeared, after granting, at the Governor's urgent request, + two or three weeks' provision for the whites. Famine followed, with + sickness in its train, and the neighbouring slave-dealers added all they + could to the sufferings of the settlement. + </p> + <p> + In the same year Zachary Macaulay, father of Lord Macaulay, became + Governor for the first time. The Company also made its earliest effort to + open up trade with the interior by a mission, and two of their servants + penetrated 300 miles inland to Timbo, capital of that part of Pulo-land. A + deputation of chiefs presently visited the settlement to propose terms; + but the futility of the negro settler was a complete obstacle to the + development of the internal commerce, the main object for which the + Company was formed. Yet the colony prospered; in 1798 Freetown numbered, + besides public buildings, about 300 houses. + </p> + <p> + In 1800 the Sierra Leone Company obtained a Charter of Justice from the + Crown, authorising the directors to appoint a Governor and Council, and to + make laws not repugnant to those of England. During the same year the + settlers, roused to wrath by a small ground-rent imposed upon their farms, + rose in rebellion. This movement was put down by introducing a third + element of 530 Maroons, who arrived in October. They were untamable + Coromanti (Gold Coast) negroes who boasted that among blacks they were + what the English are among whites, able to fight and thrash all other + tribes. They had escaped from their Spanish masters when the British + conquered Jamaica in 1655; they took to the mountains, and, joined by + desperadoes, they built sundry scattered settlements. [Footnote: In 1738, + after regular military operations, the Maroons of Jamaica agreed to act as + police and to deliver up runaways. In 1795 the Trelawny men rebelled, and, + having inflicted a severe loss upon the troops, were deported to Nova + Scotia and Sá Leone.] Introducing these men fostered the ill-feeling + which, in the earlier part of the present century, prevented the rival + sections from intermarrying. Many of the disaffected Sá Leonites left the + colony; some fled to the wilds and the wild ones of the interior, and a + few remained loyal. + </p> + <p> + Rumours of native invasions began to prevail. The Governor was loth to + believe that King Tom would thus injure his own interests, until one + morning, when forty war-canoes, carrying armed Timnis, were descried + paddling round the eastern point. Londoners and Nova Scotians fled to the + fort, and next day the Timni drum sounded the attack. The Governor, who + attempted to parley, was wounded; but the colonists, seeing that life was + at stake, armed themselves and beat off the assailants, when the Maroons + of Granville Town completed the rout. After this warning a wall with + strong watch-towers was built round Freetown. + </p> + <p> + Notwithstanding all precautions, another 'Timni rising' took place in + 1803. The assailants paddled down in larger numbers from Porto Loko, + landed at Kissy, and assaulted Freetown, headed by a jumping and drumming + 'witch-woman.' Divided into three storming parties, they bravely attacked + the gates, but they were beaten back without having killed a man. The dead + savages lay so thick that the Governor, fearing pestilence, ordered the + corpses to be cast into the sea. + </p> + <p> + The first law formally abolishing slavery was passed, after a twenty + years' campaign, by the energy of Messieurs Clarkson, Stephen, + Wilberforce, and others, on May 23, 1806. In 1807 the importation of fresh + negroes into the colonies became illegal. On March 16, 1808, Sá Leone + received a constitution, and was made a depôt for released captives. This + gave rise to the preventive squadron, and in due time to a large + importation of the slaves it liberated. Locally called 'Cruits,' many of + these savages were war-captives; others were criminals condemned to death, + whom the wise chief preferred to sell than to slay. With a marvellous + obtuseness and want of common sense our Government made Englishmen by + wholesale of these wretches, with eligibility to sit on juries, to hold + office, and to exercise all the precious rights of Englishmen. Instead of + being apprenticed or bound to labour for some seven years under + superintendence, and being taught to clear the soil, plant and build, as + in similar cases a white man assuredly would have been, they were allowed + to loaf, lie, and cheat through a life equally harmful to themselves and + others. 'Laws of labour,' says an African writer, [Footnote: <i>Sierra + Leone Weekly Times</i>, July 30, 1862.] 'may be out of place (date?) in + England, but in Sierra Leone they would have saved an entire population + from trusting to the allurements of a petty, demoralising trade; they + would have saved us the sight of decayed villages and a people becoming + daily less capable of bearing the laborious toil of agricultural industry. + To handle the hoe has now become a disgrace, and men have lost their + manhood by becoming gentlemen.' I shall presently return to this subject. + </p> + <p> + Thus the four colonies which successively peopled Sá Leone were composed + of destitute paupers from England, of fugitive Nova Scotian serviles, of + outlawed Jamaican negroes, and of slave-prisoners or criminals from every + region of Western and inner Africa. + </p> + <p> + The first society of philanthropists, the 'Sierra Leone Company,' failed, + but not without dignity. It had organised a regular government, and even + coined its own money. In the British Museum a silver piece like a florin + bears on the obverse 'Sierra Leone Company, Africa,' surrounding a lion + guardant standing on a mountain; the reverse shows between the two numbers + 50 and 50 two joined hands, representing the union of England and Africa, + and the rim bears 'half-dollar piece, 1791,' the year of the creation of + the colony. The Company's intentions were pure; its hopes and expectations + were lofty, and the enthusiasts flattered themselves that they had proved + the practicability of civilising Africa. But debt and native wars ended + their career, and transferred, on January 1, 1808, their rights to the + Crown. The members, however, did not lose courage, but at once formed the + African Institution, the parent of the Royal Geographical Society. + </p> + <p> + The government of the Crown colony has undergone some slight + modifications. In 1866 it was made, with very little forethought, a kind + of government-general, the centre of rule for all the West African + settlements. The unwisdom of this step was presently recognised, and Sá + Leone is now under a charter dated December 17, 1874, the + governor-in-chief having command over the administration of Bathurst, + Gambia. Similarly farther south, Lagos, now the Liverpool of West Africa, + has been bracketed, foolishly enough, with the Gold Coast. + </p> + <p> + The liberateds, called by the people 'Cruits,' and officially + 'recaptives,' soon became an important factor. In 1811 they numbered 2,500 + out of 4,500; and between June 1819 and January 1833 they totalled 27,167 + hands. They are now represented by about seventeen chief, and two hundred + minor, tribes. A hundred languages, according to Mr. Koelle, increased to + a hundred and fifty by Bishop Vidal, and reduced to sixty by Mr. Griffith, + are spoken in the streets of Freetown, a 'city' which in 1860 numbered + 17,000 and now 22,000 souls. The inextricably mixed descendants of the + liberateds may be a total of 35,430, more than half the sum of the + original settlement, 53,862. Being mostly criminals, and <i>ergo</i> more + energetic spirits, they have been the most petted and patronised by + colonial rule. There were governors who attempted to enforce our wise old + regulations touching apprenticeship, still so much wanted in the merchant + navy; but disgust, recall, or death always shortened their term of office. + Naturally enough, the 'Cruits' were fiercely hated by Colonists, Settlers, + and Maroons. Mrs. Melville reports an elderly woman exclaiming, 'Well, + 'tis only my wonder that we (settlers) do not rise up in one body and <i>kill</i> + and <i>slay</i>, <i>kill</i> and <i>slay!</i> Dem Spanish and Portuguese + sailors were quite right in making slaves. I would do de same myself, + suppose I were in dere place.' 'He is only a liberated!' is a favourite + sneer at the new arrivals; so in the West Indies, by a curious irony of + fate, 'Willyfoss nigger' is a term of abuse addressed to a Congo or Guinea + 'recaptive.' But here all the tribes are bitterly hostile to one another, + and all combine against the white man. After the fashion of the Gold Coast + they have formed themselves into independent caucuses called 'companies,' + who set aside funds for their own advancement and for the ruin of their + rivals. + </p> + <p> + The most powerful and influential races are two—the Aku and the Ibo. + The Akus [Footnote: This is a nickname from the national salutation, 'Aku, + ku, ku?' ('How d'ye do?')] or Egbas of Yoruba, the region behind Lagos, + the Eyeos of the old writers, so called from their chief town, 'Oyo,' are + known by their long necklaces of tattoo. They are termed the Jews of + Western Africa; they are perfect in their combination, and they poison + with a remarkable readiness. The system of Egba 'clanship' is a favourite, + sometimes an engrossing, topic for invective with the local press, who + characterise this worst species of 'trades-union,' founded upon + intimidation and something worse, as the 'Aku tyranny' and the 'Aku + Inquisition.' The national proverb speaks the national sentiment clearly + enough: '<i>Okŕn kau lč ase ibi, ikoko li asi ěmolle bi atoju ěmolle taů, + ke atoju ibi pella, bi aba kű ara enni ni isni 'ni'</i> ('A man must + openly practise the duties of kinship, even though he may privately belong + to a (secret) club; when he has attended the club he must also attend to + the duties of kinship, because when he dies his kith and kin are those who + bury him'). + </p> + <p> + The Ibos, or 'Eboes' of American tales, are even more divided; still they + feel and act upon the principle 'Union is strength.' This large and savage + tribe, whose headquarters are at Abo, about the head of the Nigerian + delta, musters strong at Sá Leone; here they are the Swiss of the + community; the Kruboys, and further south the Kabenda-men being the + 'Paddies.' It is popularly said that while the Aku will do anything for + money, the Ibo will do anything for revenge. Both races are astute in the + extreme and intelligent enough to work harm. Unhappily, their talents + rarely take the other direction. In former days they had faction-fights: + the second eastern district witnessed the last serious disturbance in + 1834. Now they do battle under the shadow of the law. 'Aku constables will + not, unless in extreme cases, take up their delinquent countrymen, nor + will an Ebo constable apprehend an Ebo thief; and so on through all the + different tribes,' says the lady 'Resident of Sierra Leone.' If the + majority of the jury be Akus, they will unhesitatingly find the worst of + Aku criminals innocent, and the most innocent of whites, Ibos, or Timnis + guilty. The Government has done its best to weld all those races into one, + and has failed. Many, however, are becoming Moslems, as at Lagos, and this + change may have a happier effect by introducing the civilisation of + El-Islam. + </p> + <p> + Trial by jury has proved the reverse of a blessing to most non-English + lands; in Africa it is simply a curse. The model institution becomes here, + as in the United States, a better machine for tyranny than any tyrant, + except a free people, ever invented. The British Constitution determines + that a man shall be tried by his peers. Half a dozen of his peers at Sá + Leone may be full-blooded blacks, liberated slaves, half-reformed + fetish-worshippers, sometimes with a sneaking fondness for Shángo, the + Egba god of fire; and, if not criminals and convicts in their own country, + at best paupers clad in dishclouts and palm-oil. The excuse is that a + white jury cannot be collected among the forty or fifty eligibles in + Freetown. It is vain to 'challenge,' for other negroes will surely take + the place of those objected to. No one raises the constitutional question, + 'Are these half-reclaimed savages my peers?' And if he did, Justice would + sternly reply, 'Yes.' The witnesses will forswear themselves, not, like + our 'posters,' for half a crown, but gratis, because the plaintiff or + defendant is a fellow-tribesman. The judge may be 'touched with a + tar-brush;' but, be he white as milk, he must pass judgment according to + verdict. This state of things recalls to mind the Ireland of the early + nineteenth century, when the judges were prefects armed with a penal code, + and the jurymen vulgar, capricious, and factious partisans. + </p> + <p> + Surely such a caricature of justice, such an outrage upon reason, was + never contemplated by British law or lawgiver. Our forefathers never + dreamt that the free institutions for which they fought and bled during + long centuries would thus be prostituted, would be lavished upon every + black 'recaptive,' be he thief, wizard, or assassin, after living some + fourteen days in a black corner of the British empire. Even the Irishman + and the German must pass some five years preparing themselves in the + United States before they become citizens. Sensible Africans themselves + own that 'the negro race is not fitted, without a guiding hand, to + exercise the privileges of English citizenship.' A writer of the last + century justly says, 'Ideas of perfect liberty have too soon been given to + this people, considering their utter ignorance. If one of them were asked + why he does not repair his house, clear his farm, mend his fence, or put + on better clothes, he replies that "King no give him work dis time," and + that he can do no more than "burn bush and plant little <i>cassader</i> + for yam."' + </p> + <p> + But a kind of <i>hysterica passio</i> seems to have mastered the cool + common sense of the nation—a fury of repentance for the war about + the Asiento contract, for building Bristol and Liverpool with the flesh + and blood of the slave, and for the 2,130,000 negroes supplied to Jamaica + between 1680 and 1786. Like a veteran devotee Great Britain began atoning + for the coquetries of her hot youth. While Spain and Portugal have passed + sensible laws for gradual emancipation, England, with a sublime folly, set + free by a stroke of the pen, at the expense of twenty millions sterling + the born and bred slaves of Jamaica. The result was an orgy for a week, a + systematic refusal to work, and for many years the ruin of the glorious + island. + </p> + <p> + If the reader believes I have exaggerated the state of things long + prevalent at Sá Leone, he is mistaken. And he will presently see a + confirmation of these statements in the bad name which the Sá Leonite + bears upon the whole of the western coast. Yet, I repeat, the colony is + changed for the better, physically by a supply of pure water, morally by + the courage which curbed the black abuse. Twenty years ago to call a negro + 'nigger' was actionable; many a 5<i>l.</i> has been paid for the + indulgence of <i>lčse-majesté</i> against the 'man and brother;' and not a + few 50<i>l.</i> when the case was brought into the civil courts. After a + rough word the Sá Leonite would shake his fist at you and trot off + exclaiming, 'Lawyer Rainy (or Montague) lib for town!' A case of mild + assault, which in England would be settled by a police-magistrate and a + fine of five shillings, became at Freetown a serious 'bob.' Niger, + accompanied by his friends or his 'company,' betook himself to some limb + of the law, possibly a pettifogger, certainly a pauper who braved a deadly + climate for uncertain lucre. His interest was to promote litigation and to + fill his pockets by what is called sharp practice. After receiving the + preliminary fee of <i>5l</i>., to be paid out of the plunder, he demanded + exemplary damages, and the defendant was lightened of all he could afford + to pay. When the offender was likely to leave the station, the <i>modus + operandi</i> was as follows. The writ of summons was issued. The lawyer + strongly recommended an apology and a promise to defray costs, with the + warning that judgment would go by default against the absentee. If the + defendant prudently 'stumped up,' the affair ended; if not, a <i>capias</i> + was taken out, and the law ran its course. A jury was chosen, and I have + already told the results. + </p> + <p> + At length these vindictive cases became so numerous and so scandalous that + strong measures became necessary. Governor Blackall (1862-66) was brave + enough to issue an order that cases should not be brought into the civil + courts unless complainants could prove that they were men of some + substance. Immense indignation was the result; yet the measure has proved + most beneficial. The negro no longer squares up to you in the suburbs and + dares the 'white niggah' to strike the 'black gen'leman.' He mostly limits + himself to a mild impudence. If you ask a well-dressed black the way to a + house, he may still reply, 'I wonder you dar 'peak me without making + compliment!' The true remedy, however, is still wanting, a 'court of + summary jurisdiction presided over by men of honour and probity.' + [Footnote: <i>Wanderings in West Africa</i>, ii. pp. 231-23.] + </p> + <p> + It cannot be said that the Sá Leonite has suffered from any want of + religious teaching or educational activity. On the contrary, he has had + too much of both. + </p> + <p> + After the collapse of Portuguese missionary enterprise on the West Coast, + the first attempts to establish Wesleyan Methodism at Sá Leone were made + in 1796, when Dr. Thomas Coke tried and failed. The Nova Scotian colonists + in 1792 had already brought amongst them Wesleyans, Baptists, and Lady + Huntingdon's connexion. This school, which differs from other Methodists + only in Church government, still has a chapel at Sá Leone. Thus each sect + claims 1792 as the era of its commencement in the colony. In 1811 Mr. + Warren, the first ordained Wesleyan missionary, reached Freetown and died + on July 23, 1812. He was followed by Mrs. Davies, the prima donna of the + corps: she 'gathered up her feet,' as the native saying is, on December + 15, 1815. Since that time the place has never lacked an unbroken + succession of European missionary deaths. + </p> + <p> + The Church Missionary Society, founded in 1799, sent out, five years + afterwards, its first representatives, MM. Renner and Hartwig, Germans + supported by English funds. In 1816 they devoted themselves steadily to + converting the 'recaptives,' and many of them, together with their wives, + fell bravely at their posts. In twenty years thirty-seven out of seventy + died or were invalided. The names of Wylander and W. A. B. Johnson are + deservedly remembered. Nearly half a million sterling was spent at Sá + Leone, where the stone church of Kissy Road was built in 1839, and that of + Pademba Road in 1849. The grants were wisely withdrawn in 1862. At the + present moment only 300<i>l</i>. is given, and the church is reported to + be self-supporting. The first bishopric was established in 1852. In 1861 + Bishop Beckles instituted the native Church pastorate: its constitution is + identical with that of the Episcopalians, whose ecclesiastical functions + it has taken over. + </p> + <p> + According to the last census-returns, Sá Leone contains 18,660 + Episcopalians; 17,093 Wesleyans and Methodists of the New Connection; + 2,717 Lady Huntingdonians; 388 Baptists, and 369 Catholics. These native + Christians keep the Sundays and Church festivals with peculiar zest, and + delight in discordant hymns and preaching of the most ferocious kind. The + Dissenting chapel combines the Christy minstrel with Messieurs Moody and + Sankey; and the well-peppered palaver-sauce of home cookery reappears in + hotly spiced, bitterly pious sermons and 'experiences;' in shouts of + 'Amen!' 'Glory!' and 'Hallelujah!' and in promiscuous orders to 'Hol' de + fort.' Right well do I remember while the rival pilots, Messieurs Elliot + and Johnson, were shamelessly perjuring themselves in the police-court, + [Footnote: <i>Wanderings in West Africa</i>, i. pp. 256-58.] the junior + generation on the other side of the building, separated by the thinnest of + party-walls, was refreshing itself with psalms and spiritual songs. + </p> + <p> + We went to hear the psalmody. Ascending the staircase in the gable + opposite the court-house, we passed down the hall, and saw through the + open door the young idea at its mental drill in the hands of a pedagogue, + apparently one of the [Greek: <i>anaimosarka</i>], who, ghastly white and + thatched with Paganini hair, sat at the head of the room, the ruling body + of the unruly rout. Down the long length, whose whitewashed walls were + garnished with inscriptions, legal, moral, and religious, all sublime as + far as size went, were ranged parallel rows of <i>négrillons</i> in the + vast costumal variety of a ragged school. They stood bolt upright, square + to the fore, in the position of ' 'tention,' their naked toes disposed at + an angle of 60ş, with fingers close to the seams of their breeches (when + not breekless), heads up and eyes front. Face and body were motionless, as + if cast in ebony: nothing moved but the saucer-like white eyes and the + ivory-lined mouths, from whose ample lips and gape issued a prodigious + volume of sound. Native assistants, in sable skins and yellowish white + chokers, carrying music-scores and armed with canes, sloped through the + avenues, occasionally halting to frown down some delinquent, whose body + was not perfectly motionless, and whose soul was not wholly fixed upon the + development of sacred time and tune. I have no doubt that they sang— + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + The sun, the moon, and all the stars, &c. +</pre> + <p> + precisely in the same spirit as if they had been intoning— + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Peter Hill! poor soul! + Flog 'um wife, oh no! oh no! +</pre> + <p> + and that famous anthropological assertion— + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Eve ate de appel, + Gib one to daddy Adam; + And so came mi-se-ry + Up-on dis worl'. + <i>Chorus (bis)</i> Oh sor-row, oh sor-row! + Tri-bu-la-tion + Until sal-va-tion day. +</pre> + <p> + It is a pity that time and toil should be thus wasted. The negro child, + like the Hindu, is much sharper, because more precocious, than the + European; at six years he will become a good penman; in fact, he promises + more than he can perform. Reaching the age of puberty, his capacity for + progress suddenly disappears, the physical reason being well known, and + the 'cute lad becomes a <i>dummer Junge</i>. Mrs. Melville thus describes + her small servant-girl from one of these schools: 'She looks almost nine + years old; and, as far as reading goes, she knows nothing more than her + alphabet; can repeat the Prayer-Book Catechism by rote, and one or two + hymns, utterly ignorant all the while of the import of a single word.' + Even in Europe education, till lately, exercised the judgment too little, + the memory too much; consequently there were more learned men than wise + men. The system is now changing, and due attention is paid to the <i>corpus + sanum</i>, the first requisite for the <i>mens sana</i>. The boys at Sá + Leone are kept nine hours in school, learning verse by heart, practising a + vocalisation which cannot be heard without pain, and toiling at the + English language, which some missionaries seem to hold a second + revelation. Far better two or three hours of the 'three Rs' and six of the + shop or workyard. Briefly, the system should be that of the Basle + Missionary Society, [Footnote: I deeply regret that <i>Wanderings in West + Africa</i> spoke far less fairly of this establishment than it deserves. + My better judgment had been warped by the prejudiced accounts of a + fellow-traveller.] which combines abstract teaching with practical + instruction in useful handicraft, and which thus suggests the belief that + work is dignified as it is profitable. + </p> + <p> + The Sá Leonites from their earliest days were greedy to gain knowledge as + the modern Greeks and Bulgarians; but the motive was not exalted. Their + proverb said, 'Read book, and learn to be rogue as well as white man.' + Hence useless, fanciful subjects were in vogue;—algebra, as it were, + before arithmetic;—and the poor made every sacrifice to give their + sons a smattering of Latin, Greek, and Hebrew. The desire of entering the + 'professions' naturally affected the standard of education. What is still + wanted at Sá Leone is to raise the mass by giving to their teaching a more + practical turn, which shall cultivate habits of industry, economy, and + self-respect, and encourage handicrafts and agriculture as well as trade. + </p> + <p> + I have already noticed the Fourah Bay College. The Church Missionary + Grammar-School, opened in 1845, prepares boarders and day-scholars for + university education; and the curriculum is that of an ordinary English + grammar-school. The establishment, which has already admitted over 1,000 + boys, is now self-supporting, and has an invested surplus, with which + tutors are sent to England for higher instruction in 'pćdagogia.' The + Wesleyan High School for Boys, opened in 1874, receives youths from + neighbouring colonies; that for girls, originating with Mrs. Godman, the + wife of a veteran missionary still on the Coast, was founded in 1879. It + was cordially taken up by the natives, who subscribed all the funds. The + founders thought best to adopt the commercial principle; but no one as yet + has asked for profit, and the school shows signs of prosperity and + progress. The Annie Walsh Memorial School for Girls, dating from a bequest + by the lady whose name it bears, is under the management of the Church + Missionary Society. The Catholics are, as usual, well to the fore. The + priests keep a large school for boys, and the sisters educate young women + and girls. I have before described the dark novice,— + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Under a veil that wimpled was full low; + And over all a black stole shee did throw. +</pre> + <p> + The masters also make their children learn Arabic and English. There is a + manliness and honesty in the look of the Mandenga and the Susu never seen + in the impudent 'recaptive.' The dignity of El-Islam everywhere displays + itself: it is the majesty of the monotheist, who ignores the degrading + doctrine of original sin; it is the sublime indifference to life which <i>kazá + wa kadar</i>, by us meagrely translated 'fatalism,' confers upon the + votaries of 'the Faith.' These are not the remarks of a prejudiced + sympathiser with El-Islam: many others have noted the palpable superiority + of the Moslem over the missionary convert and the liberated populace of Sá + Leone. + </p> + <p> + As a rule journalism on the West Coast is still in the lowest stage of + Eatanswillism, and the journal is essentially ephemeral. The newspapers of + twenty years ago are all dead and forgotten. Such were the 'African + Herald,' a 'buff' organ, edited by the late Rev. Mr. Jones, a West Indian, + and its successor, the 'African Weekly Times.' The 'Sierra Leone Gazette' + succumbed when the Wesleyans established (1842) the 'Sierra Leone + Watchman.' Other defuncts are the 'Free Press,' a Radical paper, + representing Young Sá Leone, and a fourth, the 'Intelligencer,' which + strove to prove what has sometimes been asserted at negro + indignation-meetings, namely, that 'a white man, if <i>he behave himself</i>, + is as good as a black man.' Cain, like the rest of the family, was a + negro; but when rebuked by the Creator he turned pale with fear, a tint + inherited by his descendants. The theory is, <i>par parenthčse</i>, as + good as any other. The only papers now published are the 'West African + Reporter,' whose proprietor and editor was the late Hon. Mr. Grant, and + the 'Watchman,' a quasi-comic sheet. + </p> + <p> + The worst feature of journalism in West Africa is that fair play is + unknown to it. The negroes may thoroughly identify themselves with + England, claim a share in her greatness, and display abundant lip-loyalty; + yet there is the racial aversion to Englishmen in the concrete, and to + this is added the natural jealousy of seeing strangers monopolise the best + appointments. The Sá Leonite openly declares that he and his can rule the + land much better and more economically than the sickly foreigner, who + spends half his service-time on board the steamers and at home. 'Dere goes + another white raskel to his grave!' they will exclaim at the sight of a + funeral. 'Wish dey all go and leave colony to US.' And as the reading and + paying public is mainly composed of Nigers, the papers must sooner or + later cater for their needs, and lose no opportunity of casting obloquy + and ridicule upon the authorities and Albus in general. We can hardly + blame them. I have shown that the worst and most scandalous display of + journalism comes from London. + </p> + <p> + After the church, the school, and the newspaper, the most important + civilising institution is the market. Sá Leone is favourably situated for + collecting the interior trade, and yet seven-tenths of the revenue is + derived from articles passing through the Loko and Rokel rivers; the rest + is levied from wines, spirits, and tobacco, and in the form of + preposterous harbour-dues. The export duties are light, but the exports do + not seem to have increased as rapidly as they should have done during the + last twenty years; this, too, despite missions into the interior and the + hospitable reception of native chiefs and their messengers. There are no + assessed or house taxes. The revenue and expenditure of the past five + years have averaged, respectively, 63,869<i>l</i>. and 59,283<i>l</i>., + leaving a surplus of 4,586<i>l</i>., which might profitably be expended + upon roads. But the liabilities of the colony early in 1881 still amounted + to 50,637<i>l</i>., being the balance of a debt resulting principally from + the harbour-works. + </p> + <p> + The present population of the original settlement—including British + Kwiáh (Quiah), an early annexation—is 53,862. The dependencies, + Isles de Los, Tasso, Kikonkeh, and British Sherbro, according to the + census of 1881, add 6,684, a figure which experts would increase by 4,000. + The total, therefore, in round numbers, would be nearly 65,000. At the + last census only 163 were resident whites; the crews and passengers of + ships in port added 108. + </p> + <p> + On the whole the Sá Leonite cannot be called a success. Servants in shoals + present themselves on board the steamers, begging 'ma'sr' to take them + down coast. In vain. The fellow is handier than his southern brother: he + can mend a wheel, make a coffin, or cut your hair. Yet none, save the + veriest greenhorn, will engage him in any capacity. As regards civility + and respectfulness he is far inferior to the <i>emancipado</i> of Cuba or + the Brazil; with a superior development of 'sass,' he is often an + inveterate thief. He has fits of drinking, when he becomes mad as a Malay. + He gambles, he overdresses himself, and he indulges in love-intrigues till + he has exhausted his means, and then he makes 'boss' pay for all. With a + terrible love of summonsing, and a thorough enjoyment of a law-court, he + enters into the spirit of the thing like an attorney's clerk. He soon + wearies of the less exciting life in the wilder settlements, where orgies + and debauchery are not fully developed; home-sickness seizes him, and he + deserts his post; probably robbing house or till. + </p> + <p> + Even a black who has once visited Sá Leone is considered spoilt for life, + as if he had spent a year in England. Hence the eccentric Captain Phil. + Beaver declared that he 'would rather carry a rattlesnake than a negro who + has been in London.' I have met with some ugly developments of + home-education. One was a yellow Dan Lambert, the son of a small + shopkeeper, who was returning—dubbed a 'Templar'—from the Land + of Liberty. He was not a pleasant companion. His face was that of a porker + half-translated; he yelped the regular Tom Coffee laugh; and when asked + why Sá Leone had not contributed to the Crimean Widow Fund, he uttered the + benevolent wish that 'the damned —— and their brats might all + starve like their husbands.' Another was a full-blooded negro, a petty + huckster at the 'Red Grave,' who, in his last 'homeward' voyage, had met + at Madeira the Dean and Deaness of Oxbridge. The lady resolved to keep up + the creditable acquaintanceship: so strong is feminine love for the 'black + lion.' Shortly afterwards Niger paid his promised visit, which he + described graphically and sans sense of shame—how he had been met at + the station by a tall gentleman in uniform and gold-laced hat, how he was + invited to enter a carriage, and how great was his astonishment when the + 'officer' preferred standing in the open air behind to accompanying him + inside. After this naďve <i>début</i> he showed tact. Mr. Dean wished to + know if anything could be done towards advancing the interesting guest in + his 'profession'—not trade. We talk of an English school-master, but + a mulatto or a negro becomes a 'professor.' Niger whispered 'No,' which, + ladylike, meant a distinct 'Yes.' He ended by graciously accepting an + introduction to a Manchester firm, and soon relieved it of 16,000<i>l</i>. + </p> + <p> + No one who knows the West African coast will assert that the influence of + Sá Leone has been in any way for good. All can certify that this colony, + intended as a 'model of policy,' and founded with the object of promoting + African improvement, has been the greatest obstacle to progress. She + fought to keep every advantage to herself, and she succeeded in securing a + monopoly of 'recaptives,' who were more wanted elsewhere. She became an + incubus in 1820, when all British possessions from N. Lat. 20ş to S. Lat. + 20ş were made her dependencies. The snake was scotched in 1844 by the Gold + Coast achieving her independence. Yet Sá Leone raised herself to a + government-general in 1866, and possibly she will do so again. + </p> + <p> + The Sá Leonite has ever distinguished himself by kicking down, as the + phrase is, the ladder which raised him. No man maltreats his wild brother + so much as the so-called 'civilised' negro: he never addresses his + congener except by 'You jackass!' and tells him ten times a day that he + considers such trash like the dirt beneath his feet. Consequently he is + hated and despised withal, being of the same colour as, while assuming + such excessive superiority over, his former equals. No one also is more + hopeless about the civilisation of Africa than the semi-civilised African + returning to the 'home of his fathers.' He feels how hard has been his + struggle to emerge from savagery; he acknowledges, in his own case, a + selection of species; and he foresees no end to the centuries before there + can be a nation equal even to himself. Yet in England and in books he will + cry up the majesty of African kings,—see, for a specimen, Bishop + Crowther's 'Niger Diary.' He will give his fellow-countrymen, whom he + thoroughly despises, a thousand grand gifts of morals and industry. I have + heard a negro assert, with the unblushing effrontery which animates the + Exeter Hall speechifier, that at some African den of thieves men leave + their money with impunity in the storehouse or on the highway. I read the + assertion of a mulatto, who well knew the contrary, 'A white man who + supposes himself respected in Africa, because he is white, is grievously + mistaken.' The 'aristocracy of colour' is a notable and salient fact in + Africa, where the chiefs are lighter hued and better grown than their + subjects; and the reason is patent—they marry the handsomest women. + </p> + <p> + Finally, the Sá Leonite is the horror of Europeans on the West Coast. He + has been formally expelled by his neighbours, the Liberians. At Lagos and + Abeokuta he lost no time in returning to his original fetishism, which the + 'recaptive' apparently can never throw off. Moreover, he became an + inveterate slave-dealer, impudently placing himself under native + protection, and renegading the flag that saved the crime-serf from + lifelong servitude. These 'insolent, vagabond loafers' were the only men + who gave me much trouble in the so-called 'Oil rivers,' where one of them + accused a highly respected Scotch missionary of theft. Finally, the Gaboon + merchants long preferred forfeiting the benefits of the mail-steamers to + seeing themselves invaded by a locust tribe, whose loveliest view is, + apparently, that which leads out of Sá Leone. + </p> + <p> + Some of this demoralisation arose from the over-tenderness of the British + Government, in deference to the philanthropist and the missionary. + Throughout the Bights of Benin and Biafra, where the chief stalks about + with his fetishman and his executioner, there is still some manliness + amongst men, some modesty amongst women. There the offending wife fears + beheading and 'saucy water;' here she leaves with impunity her husband, + who rarely abandons the better half. Consequently the sex has become + vicious as in Egypt—worse than the men, bad as these are. Petty + larceny is carried on to such an extent that no improvement is possible: + as regards property, the peninsula contains the most communistic of + communities. The robbers are expert to a degree; they work naked and well + greased, and they choose early dawn or the night-hour when the tornado is + most violent. The men fight by biting, squeezing, and butting with the + head, like the Brazilian <i>capoeira</i>. The women have a truly horrible + way of putting out of the world an obnoxious lover. Ask an Aku if an Ibo + is capable of poisoning you: he will say emphatically, 'Yes.' Put the same + question to an Ibo touching an Aku, and he will not reply, 'No.' + </p> + <p> + With respect to the relative position of Japhet and Ham—perhaps I + should say Ham and Japhet—ultra-philanthropy has granted all the + aspirations of the Ethiopian melodist:— + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + wish de legislator would set dis darkie free; + Oh, what a happy place den de darkie world would be! + We'd have a darkie parliament, + An' darkie code of law, + An' darkie judges on de bench, + Darkie barristers and aw. +</pre> + <p> + I own that darkey must be defended, and sturdily defended too, from the + injustice and cruelty of the class he calls 'poor white trash;' but the + protection should be in reason, or it becomes an injustice. Why, for + instance, did the unwise negrophile propose to protect the Jamaica negro + against the Indian coolie? Because Niger wants it? Pure ignorance and + prejudice of gentlemen who stay at home! Though physically and mentally + weaker than Europeans, the negro can hold his own, as Sá Leone proves, by + that combination which enables cattle to resist lions. Japhet Albus is by + nature aggressive; if not, he would not now be dwelling in the tents of + Shem and the huts of Ham. He feels towards Contrarius Albo as the + game-cock regards the dunghill-fowl. Displays of this sentiment on the + part of the white population must be repressed; but this should be done + fairly and without passion. + </p> + <p> + I do not for a moment regret our philanthropical move, despite its awful + waste of life and gold. England, however can do her duty to Africa without + cant, and humbug, and nonsense about the 'sin and crime of slavery.' + Serfdom, like cannibalism and polygamy, are the steps by which human + society rose to its present status: to abuse them is ignorantly to kick + down the ladder. The spirit of Christianity may tend to abolish servitude; + but the letter distinctly admits it, and the translators have unfairly + rendered 'slave' and 'bondsman' by 'servant,' which is absurd. England can + fight, if necessary, against a traffic which injures the free man, but she + might abstain from abusing those who do not share her opinions. The + anti-slavery party has hitherto acted rather from sentiment than from + reason; and Mr. Buckle was right in determining that morality must be + ruled by, and not rule, intellect. We have one point in our favour. The <i>dies + atra</i> between 1810-20, when a man could not speak what he thought upon + the subject of slavery, ended as the last slave left the West African + coast; and yet I doubt whether the day is yet come when we can draw upon + the great labour-bank of Africa and establish that much-wanted + institution, the black <i>ouvrier libre</i>. + </p> + <p> + There are several classes interested in pitting black man against white + man. An unscrupulous missionary will, for his own ends, preach resistance + to time-honoured customs and privileges which Niger has himself accepted. + An unworthy lawyer will urge litigation; a dishonest judge or + police-magistrate will make popularity at the expense of equity and + honour; a weak-minded official will fear the murmurs, the complaints, and + the memorials of those under him, and the tomahawking which awaits him + from the little army of negrophiles at home. But the most dangerous class + of all is the mulatto; he is everywhere, like wealth, <i>irritamenta + malorum</i>. The 'bar sinister,' and the fancy that he is despised, fill + him with ineffable gall and bitterness. Inferior in physique to his black, + and in <i>morale</i> to his white, parent, he seeks strength by making the + families of his progenitors fall out. Had the Southern States of America + deported all the products of 'miscegenation,' instead of keeping them in + servitude, the 'patriarchal institution' might have lasted to this day + instead of being prematurely abolished. + </p> + <p> + My first visit to Sá Leone showed me the root of all her evils. There is + hardly a peasant in the peninsula. Had the 'colony-born' or older + families, the 'King-yard men,' or recaptives, and the creoles, or children + of liberated Africans, been apprenticed and compelled to labour, the + colony would have become a flourishing item of the empire. Now it is the + mere ruin of an emporium; and the people, born and bred to do nothing, + cannot prevail upon themselves to work. But the 'improved African' has an + extra contempt for agriculture, and he is good only at destruction. Rice + and cereals, indigo and cotton, coffee and arrowroot, tallow-nuts and + shea-butter, squills and jalap, oil-palms and cocoas, ginger, cayenne, and + ground-nuts are to be grown. Copal and bees'-wax would form articles of + extensive export; but the people are satisfied with maize and roots, + especially the cassava, which to Sá Leone is a curse as great as the + potato has proved to Ireland. Petty peddling has ever been, and still is, + the 'civilised African's' <i>forte</i>. He willingly condemns himself to + spend life between his wretched little booth and his Ebenezer, to waste + the week and keep the Sabbath holy by the 'holloaing of anthems.' His <i>beau + idéal</i> of life is to make wife and children work for, feed and clothe + him, whilst he lies in the shady piazza, removing his parasites and + enjoying porcine existence. His pleasures are to saunter about visiting + friends; to grin and guffaw; to snuff, chew, and smoke, and at times to + drink <i>kerring-kerry</i> (<i>cańa</i> or <i>caxaça</i>), poisonous rum + at a shilling a bottle. Such is the life of ignoble idleness to which, by + not enforcing industry, we have condemned these sable tickets-of-leave. + </p> + <p> + Before quitting the African coast I diffidently suggested certain steps + towards regenerating our unhappy colony. For the encouragement of + agriculture I proposed a tax upon small shopkeepers and hucksters, who, by + virtue of sitting behind a few strings of beads or yards of calico, call + themselves traders and merchants. This measure, by-the-by, was attempted + in 1879 by Governor Rowe, but the strong opposition compelled him to + withdraw it. I would have imposed a heavy tax upon all grog-shop licenses, + and would have allowed very few retail-shops in the colony. + Police-magistrates appeared to me perfectly capable of settling disputes + and of punishing offenders. I would have discouraged the litigation which + the presence of lawyers and a bench suggests, and which causes such + heartburn between Europeans and Africans. I would have established a Court + of Summary Jurisdiction, and never have allowed a black jury to 'sit upon' + a white man, or <i>vice versâ</i>; and in the case of a really deserving + negro or mulatto I would rather see him appointed Lord-Lieutenant of + Ireland than Governor or Secretary of Sá Leone. + </p> + <p> + On my last journey I met the Hon. Mr. T. Risely Griffith, a West Indian + and Colonial Secretary at Sá Leone. He kindly read what I had written + about the white man's Grave, and found it somewhat harsh and bitter. At + the same time he gave me, with leave to use, his valuable lecture + delivered before the Royal Colonial Institute. [Footnote: <i>The Colonies + and India</i>, a weekly newspaper. London: December 17, 1881.] Making + allowance for the official <i>couleur de rose</i>, and reading between the + lines, I found that he had stated, in parliamentary language, what had + been told by me in the rude tongue of a traveller. The essay, he assured + me, had been well received at Sá Leone; and yet, to my knowledge, the + newspapers of the western coast had proposed to make it the subject of an + 'indignation-meeting.' + </p> + <p> + Hear what Mr. Griffith has to say upon the crucial question—agriculture. + 'The ordinary observer cannot fail to be impressed with the great number + of traders and hawkers. In the peninsula of Sierra Leone there are + returned 53,862; of these, traders and hawkers number 10,250, or about 19 + per cent., or, including hucksters, 23 per cent. Little good can result to + a country as long as one-fourth of its people are dependent for their + livelihood for what they sell to the remaining three-quarters.... The same + tendency to engage in the work of distribution rather than the production + of wealth seems to be a general characteristic of the negro race. + </p> + <p> + 'The real number of artisans or mechanics who have any right to the term + is very limited; and it is to be regretted that in Sierra Leone, where the + people are apt to learn, and tolerably quick to apply, there is not a + greater number of thorough workmen to teach their handicrafts and make + them examples for the rising generation. A youth who has been two years + with a carpenter, boat-builder, blacksmith, or mason, arrogates the name + to himself without compunction, and frequently, whilst he is learning from + an indifferent teacher the rudiments of his trade, he sets up as a master. + There is hardly a single trade that can turn out half a dozen men who + would be certificated by any European firm for possessing a thorough + knowledge of it. Of all trades in Sierra Leone, and certainly in Freetown, + that of tailoring is the most patronised, but this arises from the love of + dress, which is inherent. + </p> + <p> + 'The proper cultivation of the soil is, and must always be, the true + foundation of prosperity in any country. The shop cannot flourish unless + the farm supports it, and the friends of the colony regard with anxiety + the centralisation of capital at Freetown. I have been gratified, however, + to notice that the desire to acquire land and cultivate it has lately + increased to a very great extent, and I regard it as a very hopeful sign + for the future. The people still want two things, capital and scientific + agricultural knowledge. The native implements are of the rudest kind—their + hoes little more than sufficient to scratch the ground, and their only + other implement a cutlass to cut down the bush. Ploughs are unknown, and + spades very little used. Wheelbarrows are detested, although they are not + quite unknown; the people would sooner "tote" the soil in a box on their + heads, and instances are on record where the negro has "toted" the + wheelbarrow itself, wheel, handle, and all.' + </p> + <p> + Mr. Griffith further informs us that the Colonial Government is desirous + of fostering and encouraging agriculture; that it proposes to establish, + or rather to re-establish, a model farm; that lands have been granted at a + trifling sum to Mr. William Grant on condition of his devoting capital and + labour to the development of agriculture; that Mr. Thomas Bright has laid + out a coffee and cocoa farm at Murray Town; and that Mr. Samuel Lewis, a + barrister-at-law, universally well spoken of, is engaged in cultivation, + with a view of studying the best methods and of influencing his + fellow-countrymen in favour of agricultural pursuits. Major Bolton also is + working the land seventeen miles down coast, and planting cocoa-nuts, + chocolate, and Kola-trees. The latter, when ten years old, are said each + to fetch 15<i>l</i>. per annum. Here, therefore, we have at least a + beginning. + </p> + <p> + During the discussion on Mr. Griffith's lecture, some home-truths were + told by the Hon. Mr. Grant, [Footnote: This 'eminent African,' who had + gone to England with the view of buying agricultural implements and an + ice-machine, died in London on January 28, 1881. His speech, therefore, + was delivered only a week or so before his death. Much fulsome praise of + him followed in the press, which seemed completely surprised that a black + man could talk common sense.] a full-blooded negro, of the Ibo tribe, and + a member of the Sierra Leone Legislative Council. He objected to the term + 'white man's Grave.' He bravely and truly told his audience that if the + French held possession of Sá Leone they would have made it a 'different + thing.' After praising the present Governor's instruction-ordinance he + spoke these remarkable words:— + </p> + <p> + 'But education from the point I allude to is that practical education + which develops the man and makes him what he is, not the education which + makes him simply the blind imitator of what he is not. Of course the + education, as originally introduced into the colony, was an experiment, + and a grand experiment it was. They said, "There are these people, and we + will educate them as ourselves." It was a good idea, but it was defective, + because there is as great a difference between the negro and the white man + as there can be. He is capable of doing anything that the white man can + do; but then, to get him to do that, you must educate him in himself. You + must bring him out by himself: you must not educate him otherwise. He must + be educated to carry out a proper and distinct course for himself. The + complaint has been general of the want of success in the education of the + negro; but it is not his fault: the fault is from the defect of his + education. He fancies, by the sort of education which you give him, that + he must imitate you in everything—act like you, dress in broadcloth + like you, and have his tall black hat like you. Then you see the result is + that he is not himself; he confuses himself, and when he comes to act + within himself as a man he is confused, and you find fault that he has not + improved as he ought to do. But if he is properly educated you will find + him of far greater assistance to you than you have any idea of.' + </p> + <p> + The remarks on agriculture and on capital were equally apposite; and + Captain Cameron remarked that these were the 'truest words of wisdom about + Africa that it ever was his lot to hear.' They will leave a sweet savour + in the reader's mouth after a somewhat acid chapter. + </p> + <p> + But the ingrained idleness of generations is not so easily cleared away. + The real cure for Sá Leone will be an immigration of Chinese or of Indian + coolies, that will cheapen labour and enable men of capital to farm on a + large scale. It may be years before agriculture supplants trade with its + light work and ready profits; but the supplanting process itself will do + good. At present Sá Leone finds it cheaper to import salt from England + than to lay out a salina, and to make an article of commerce which finds + its way into the furthest interior. Immigration, I repeat, is the sole + panacea for the evils which afflict the Lioness Range. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0002" id="link2HCH0002"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XIII. — FROM SÁ LEONE TO CAPE PALMAS. + </h2> + <p> + Frowsy old Sá Leone bestowed on us a parting smile. After a roaring + tornado at night and its terminal deluge, the morning of January 19 broke + clear and fine. We could easily trace, amongst the curious series of + volcanic cones, the three several sanitary steps on the Leicester or + Lioness Hill. These are, first the hospice of the French Jesuits, now + officers' quarters; then a long white shed, the soldiers' hospital; and + highest (1,700 feet) the box which lodges their commandant. Even the + seldom-seen 'Sugarloaf' was fairly outlined against the mild blue vault. + Although the withering hand of summer was on the scene, the old + charnel-house looked lovely; even the low lines of the Bullom shore + borrowed a kind of beauty from the air. The hues were those of Heligoland + set in frames of lapis lazuli above and of sapphire below; golden sand, + green strand of silky Bermuda-grass, and red land showing chiefly in banks + and thready paths. Again we admired the dainty and delicate beauties of + the shore about Pirate Bay and other ill-named sites. Then bidding adieu + to the white man's Red Grave and steering south-west, we gave a wide berth + to the redoubted 'Carpenter,' upon which the waves played; to the shoals + of St. Anne, and to a multitude of others which line the coast as far as + that treacherous False Cape and lumpy Cape Shelling or Shilling, whose + prolongation is the Banana group. + </p> + <p> + Sherbro, fifty miles distant, was passed at night. Then (sixty miles) came + the Gallinas River, a great centre of export, which has not forgotten + Pedro Blanco. This prince of slavers, whose establishment appears on the + charts of 1836-38, imported no goods; he bought cargoes offered to him and + he paid them by bills on England, drawing, says the Coast scandal, upon + two Quaker brothers at Liverpool. Not a little curious that our country + supplied the money both to carry on the <i>traite</i> and to put it down. + Three miles south of the Gallinas the Sulaymá River flows in. Here the + scenery suggests a child's first attempt at colouring in horizontal lines; + a dangerous surf ever foams white upon the yellow shore, bearing an + eternal growth of green. Two holes in the bush and a few thatched roofs, + separated by a few miles, showed the Harris factories, which caused + frequent teapot-storms between 1865 and 1878. The authorities of Liberia, + model claimants with a touch of savage mendicancy, demanded the land and + back-dues from time immemorial. 'Palaver' was at last 'set' by the late + lamented David Hopkins, consul for the Bights, in the presence of a + British cruiser and two American ships of war. + </p> + <p> + The weather resumed its old mood, a mixture in equal parts of 'Smokes' and + of Harmatan or Scirocco. At noon next day we steamed by Cape Mount, the + northernmost boundary of Liberia, [Footnote: The 'liberateds' of Liberia, + who lose nothing by not asking, claim the shore from the Sam Pedro River + southwards to the Jong, an affluent of the Shebar or Sherbro stream, 90 + miles north of Cape Mount. We admit their pretensions as far only as the + Sugary River, four miles above the Máfá (Mafaw), or Cape Mount stream.] a + noble landmark and a place with a future. Approaching it, we first see the + dwarf bar of the Máfá, draining a huge lagoon ('Fisherman's Lake'). On the + banks and streams are sundry little villages, Kru Town and Port Robert, + the American mission-ground. The harbour is held to be the first of five, + the others being Monrovia; Grand Bassá (Bassaw), with Edina; Sinou, and + Cape Palmas. + </p> + <p> + The Mount is an isolated rocky tongue rising suddenly like an island from + the low levels, and trending north-west to south-east. The site is + perfectly healthy; the ground is gravel, not clay, and the stone is + basalt. The upper heights are forested and full of game; the lower are + cleared and await the colonist. With the pure and keen Atlantic breeze + ever blowing over it, the Mount is a ready-made sanatorium. Its youth has + been disreputable. Here Captain Canot, [Footnote: <i>Wanderings in West + Africa</i>, vol. i. chap. v.] the Franco-Italian lieutenant of Pedro + Blanco, sold the coast till compelled by H.M. cruisers to fall back upon + honest trade. His name survives in 'Canot's Tree,' under whose shade he + held his palavers. Let us hope that the respectable middle age of Cape + Mount will be devoted to curing the sick coaster. + </p> + <p> + Beyond this fine headland, a handsome likeness of Holyhead seen from the + south, stretch the long, low, dull shores of Liberia, canopied by unclean + skies and based on dirty-looking seas. The natives, who, as usual, are new + upon the coast, and who preserve curious traditions about their + predecessors, are the Vái (not Vei), a Mandengan race still pagan. They + call, however, the world 'duniyá,' and the wife 'námúsi,' words which show + whence their ideas are derived. Their colour is lighter than the Kruman's; + there are pretty faces, especially amongst the girlish boys, and the fine + feet and delicate hands are those of 'les Gabons.' And they are + interesting on two other counts. Their language combines the three several + forms of human speech, the isolating (<i>e.g.</i> 'love'), the + agglutinating ('lovely'), and the polysynthetic ('loving,' 'loved'). + Furthermore they developed an alphabet, or rather a syllabary, which made + much noise amongst missionary 'circles,' and concerning which Lt. Forbes, + R.N., Mr. Norris, and Herr Koelle wrote abundant nonsense. Its origin is + still unknown. Some attribute it to direct inspiration (whatever that may + mean), others to marks traced upon the sand originally by boys stealing + palm-wine. My belief is that the suggestion came from the Moslems. Of late + years it has been waxing obsolete, and few care to write their letters in + it. + </p> + <p> + The Vái, who extend as far as Little Cape Mount River, are depicted in a + contrast of extremes. Mr. H. C. Creswick, [Footnote: Late manager of the + 'Gold Coast Mining Company.' Mr. Creswick treated the subject in 'Life + amongst the Veys' (<i>Trans. Ethnol. Soc. of London</i>, 1867). He tells + at full length the curious legend of their immigration, and notes the same + reverence for the crocodile which prevails at Dixcove and prevailed in + Egypt.] who long dwelt amongst them, and dealt with them from Cape Mount, + gives a high character to those who have not been perverted by + civilisation. He found the commonalty civil, kind, and hospitable; active + and industrious, to a certain extent. Their palm-oil is the best on the + coast, and can be drunk like that of the olive or the cod-liver. The + chiefs he describes as gentlemen. The missionaries assert that they are + wholly without morals, never punishing the infringement of marital rights; + petty thieves, and idle and feckless to the last degree. Certain Monrovia + men have laid out farms of coffee and <i>cacáo</i> (chocolate) upon the + St. Paul River, which, heading in Mandenga-land, breaks the chord of the + bay; but nothing can induce these ex-pets or their congeners, the Golás + and the Pesis, to work. + </p> + <p> + Like most of the coast-races, the Vái seem to be arrant cowards. The + headmen salute their visitors Arab-fashion, with flourishes of the sword; + but swording ends there. Of late they were attacked by the savages of the + interior, Gallinas, Pannis, and Kúsús. The latter, meaning the 'wolves' or + the 'wild boars,' is the popular nickname of the Mendi or Mindi tribes, + occupying the Sherbro-banks. They did excellent service in the last + Ashanti war (1873-74) by flogging forward the fugitive Fantis. Winwood + Keade, [Footnote: <i>The Story of the Ashanti Campaign</i>. Smith & + Elder, London, 1874. It is a thousand pities that the volume was pruned, + to use the mildest term. My friend's memory seems to brighten with the + years, doubtless the effect of his heroic honesty in telling what he held + to be the truth. His <i>Martyrdom of Man</i>, in which even his publisher + did not believe, has reached a fourth edition; it was quoted by Mr. + Gladstone, and Mrs. Grundy still buys it, in order to put it behind the + fire.] an excellent judge of Africans, declares that they are very + courageous, 'keen as mustard' for the fray. On the raid they creep up to + and surround the doomed village; they raise the war-cry shortly before + sunrise, and, as the villagers fly, they tell them by the touch. If the + body feels warm after sleep, unlike their own dew-cooled skins, it soon + becomes a corpse. They advance with two long knives, generally matchets, + one held between the teeth. They prefer the white arm because 'guns miss + fire, but swords are like the chicken's beak, that never fails to hit the + grain.' Some 250 of these desperadoes lately drove off 5,000 of the + semi-civilised recreants and took about 560 prisoners, including the + 'King' of the Vái. + </p> + <p> + After covering forty-three miles from Cape Mount we anchored (5 P.M.) in + the long, monotonous roll under Mount Mesurado. The name was probably + Monserrate, given by the early Portuguese. It is entitled the Cradle of + Liberia. The idea of restoring to Africa recaptured natives and manumitted + slaves was broached in 1770 by the Rev. Samuel Hopkins, of Newport, R.I. + The scheme for 'civilising and christianising' the natives assumed organic + form at Washington in 1816. In January 1820 the first emigrants embarked + from New York for 'Liberia.' The original grant of land was made (April + 1822) to the 'American Society for Colonising the Free People of the + United States,' by King Peter and sundry chiefs of the Grain Coast, who + little knew what they were doing. The place was described in those days as + an Inferno, the very head and front of the export trade, the waters + swarming with slavers, the shore bearing forty slave-factories, and the + whole showing scenes of horror which made the site 'Satan's seat of + abominations.' It has now changed its nature with its name, and has become + the head-quarters of Dullness, that goddess who, we are assured, never + dies. + </p> + <p> + Mesurado Mount, with the inverted cataract rushing white up its black + rocks, is a picturesque feature. Halfway clearings for coffee-plantations, + with a lime-washed bungalow, the President's country-quarters, lead to the + feathered and forested crest which bears the 'pharos.' This protection + against wreck is worse than nothing; it is lighted with palm-oil every + night, and then left to its own sweet will. Consequently the red glimmer, + supposed to show at thirteen miles, is rarely visible beyond three. A + dotting of white frame-houses and curls of blue smoke betray the capital. + It lurks behind the narrow sand-bar which banks the shallow and useless + Mesurado River, and few men land without an involuntary ablution in the + salt water. Usually the stream mouths by an ugly little bar at some + distance from the roadstead; after heavy rains it bursts the sand-strip + and discharges in straight line. + </p> + <p> + We had visitors that evening from the Yankee-Doodle-niggery colony, + peopled by citizens who are not 'subjects.' Bishop C. C. Pinnock, absent + from his home at Cape Mount, dined with us and told me about the death of + an old friend, good Bishop Payne. His successor objects to learning and + talking native tongues, and he insists upon teaching English to all the + mission-scholars. His reasons are shrewd, if not convincing; for instance, + 'most languages,' says the Right Reverend, 'have some term which we + translate "love." But "love" in English is not equivalent to its + representative in Kru or in Vái. Therefore by using their words I am + expressing their ideas; I bring them over to mine by the reverse process.' + </p> + <p> + We shipped for Grand Bassá two citizens, a lawyer and an attorney. Of + course one was an 'Honourable;' [Footnote: Even the Coast English are + always confounding the Hon. John A. (son of a peer) with the Hon. Mr. A. + (official rank), and I have seen sundry civilians thus mis-sign + themselves.] as Mr. H. M. Stanley says, [Footnote: <i>Coomassie and + Magdala</i>. New York, Harpers, 1874.] 'mostly every other man is here so + styled.' They talked professionally of the 'Whig ticket' and the + 'Re-publican party,' but they neither 'guess'd' nor 'kalklated,' and if + they wore they did not show revolvers and bowie-knives. They did not say, + 'We air a go-ahead people,' they were not given to 'highfalutin',' nor did + they chew their tobacco. They were, however, accompanied by an extremely + objectionable 'infant,' aged seven, who lost no time in laying hands upon + Miss M.'s trinkets, by way of returning civility. Her father restored + them, treating the theft as a matter of course. + </p> + <p> + The citizens gave me sundry details about the 'rubber'-trade, which began + in 1877. Monrovia now exports to England and the Continent some 100,000 + lbs., which sell at 1<i>s</i>. 4<i>d</i>. each. Gum-elastic is gathered + chiefly by the Bassá people, who are, however, too lazy to keep it clean; + they store it in grass-bags and transport it in canoes. Liberian coffee + is, or rather would be, famous if produced in sufficient quantities to + satisfy demand. At present it goes chiefly to the United States, where, + like Mocha, it serves to flavour burnt maize. Messieurs Spiers and Pond + would buy any quantity of it, and of late years Brazilian coffee-planters + have taken shoots to be grown at home. Here it fetches 1<i>s</i>. per lb.; + in England the price doubles. This coffee requires keeping for many + months, or the infusion is potent enough to cause the 'shakes;' it is the + same with Brazilian green tea. The bouquet is excellent, and the flavour + pretty good. There is a great difference in the shape of the beans, which + range between the broad flat Harar and the small, round, horny Mocha. + </p> + <p> + I could obtain few details concerning the 'Black Devil Society,' which + suggests the old 'Know-nothings.' It has been, they say, somewhat active + in flogging strangers, especially Sá Leone men. Most of the latter, + however, have been expelled for refusing to change their style from + 'subjects' to 'citizens'—a foreign word in English and Anglo-African + ears. + </p> + <p> + At the time of our visit the republic was in a parlous state. H.E. Mr. + Gardiner, the new President, refused to swear in the Upper House, and the + Lower refused to acknowledge the Presidential authority. Consequently + business had been at a standstill for six weeks. We were disappointed in + our hopes of being accompanied by the Honourable Professor E. W. Blyden, + ex-minister to England and afterwards principal of the college. He had + travelled with Winwood Reade, and I looked forward to hearing the opinions + of an African Arabic scholar touching the progress and future of El-Islam + in the Dark Continent. That it advances with giant steps may be proved by + these figures. Between 1861 and 1862 I found at most a dozen Moslems at + Lagos; in 1865 the number had risen to 1,200, and in 1880, according to my + old friend M. Colonna, Agent Consulaire de France, it passes 10,000, + requiring twenty-seven mosques. + </p> + <p> + The latest charts of Liberia show no less than twenty-six parallelograms + stretching inland, at various angles with the shore, and stated to have + been acquired by 'conquest or purchase' between 1822 and 1827; but the + natives, especially the Krumen, complain that after allowing the + foreigners to dwell, amongst them they have been despoiled of their + possessions, and that, once lords of the soil, they have sunk to mere + serfs. Hence the frequent wars and chronic bad blood. Every African + traveller knows the meaning of land-purchase in these regions. There are + two ideas peculiar to the negro brain, but apparently inadmissible into + European heads. The first is the non-alienation of land. Niger never parts + with his ground in perpetuity; he has always the mental reservation, while + selling it to a stranger, that the soil and its improvements return to him + by right after the death or the departure of the purchaser. Should the + settler's heirs or assignees desire to remain <i>in loco</i>, they are + expected to pay a fresh gratification; the lessor will raise his terms as + high as possible, but public opinion will oblige him to remain content + with a 'dash,' or present, equivalent to that paid by the original lessee. + </p> + <p> + The second idea is even more repugnant to European feelings. In Africa a + born chattel is a chattel for ever: the native phrase is, ''Pose man once + come up slave, he be slave all time.' There is no such thing as absolute + manumission: the unsophisticated <i>libertus</i> himself would not dream + of claiming it. We have on board a white-headed negro in an old and + threadbare Dutch uniform, returning from Java on a yearly pension of + fifteen dollars. According to treaty he had been given by the King of + Ashanti to the Hollanders, and he had served them so long that he spoke + only Low German and Malay. He will be compelled to end his career + somewhere within the range of our fort-guns, or his owner's family will + claim and carry off their property. + </p> + <p> + At 8 A.M. we steamed against a fine fresh wind past mount Mesurado <i>en + route</i> for Grand Bassá (Bassaw), distant fifty-five miles. To port lies + Montserrado County, where the shore-strip looks comparatively high and + healthy. The Bassás begin some thirty miles below the Jong River, and now + we enter the regions of Grand, Middle, and Little Piccaninny (<i>pequenino</i>), + Whole and Half, <i>i.e.</i> half-way. Thus we pass, going south-wards, + Bassá, Middle Bassá, Grand Bassá, and Bassá Cove, followed by Cestos and + Cess, Settra and Sesters, Whole and Half. The coast is well known, while + the interior is almost unexplored. Probably there is no inducement to + attract strangers. + </p> + <p> + We are grateful for small mercies, and note a picturesque view from the + open roadstead of Grand Bassá. The flats are knobbed with lumpy mounds; + North Saddle Hill, with its central seat; Tall Hill; the blue ridges of + the Bassá Hills, and St. John's Hill upon the line of its river. Nothing + can be healthier than these sites, which are well populated; and the + slopes are admirably fitted for that 'Arabian berry' whose proper home is + Africa. But, while hill-coffee has superior flavour lowland-coffee is + preferred in commerce, because the grain is larger and heavier. + </p> + <p> + Grand Bassá is the only tract in Liberia where the Sá Leonite is still + admitted. The foreshore of yellow sand, pointed and dotted by lines and + falls of black rock, fronts a shallow bay as foul and stony as the coast. + Here are three settlements, parted by narrow walls of 'bush.' Edina, the + northernmost, is said to do more business than any other port in the + republic; she also builds fine, strong surf-boats of German and American + type, carrying from one to five tons. The keels are bow-shaped, never + straight-lined from stem to stern; and the breakers are well under the + craft before their mighty crests toss it aloft and fling it into the deep + trough. They are far superior to the boats with weather-boards in the fore + which formerly bore us to land. The crew scoop up the water as if digging + with the paddle; they vary the exercise by highly eccentric movements, and + they sing savage barcarolles the better to keep time. + </p> + <p> + The middle settlement is Upper Buchanan, whose river, the St. John's, owns + a bar infamous as that of Lagos for surf and sharks. The southernmost, + Lower Buchanan, is defended by a long and broken wall of black reef, but + the village is far from smooth water. All these 'towns' occupy holes in a + curtain of the densest and tallest greenery. They are composed of groups + and scatters of whitewashed houses, half of them looking like chapels and + the other like toys. Each has its adjunct of brown huts, the native + quarter. These Bassá tribes must not be confounded with their neighbours + the Krumen; the languages are quite different, and the latter is of much + harsher sound. There is no doubt of this being a good place for engaging + labour, and it is hoped that in due time Bassá-hands, who work well, will + be engaged for the Gold Coast mines. At present, however, they avoid + English ships, call themselves 'Americans,' and willingly serve on board + the Yankee craft which load with coffee, cam-wood, and palm-oil. + </p> + <p> + We steamed along the Cape, River, and Town of Sinou, the very home of the + Kráo, or Krumen, strictly speaking a small tribe. Returning + homeward-bound, we here landed a host of men from the Oil-rivers, greatly + to my delight, as they had cumbered the deck with their leaky powder-kegs, + amid which wandered the sailors, smoking unconcernedly. In the 'good old + times' this would not have been allowed. At least one poor fellow was + drowned, so careful were the relatives to embark the kit, so careless of + the owner's person. Next day we sighted the 'Garraway-trees,' silk cottons + some 200 feet high, fine marks for clearing the Cape shoals. Then came + Fishtown and Rocktown, once celebrated for the exploits of Ashmun and his + associates; and at 2.15 P.M. we anchored in the heavy Harmatan roll off + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + The Cape of Palmas, called from palmy shade. +</pre> + <p> + A score of years ago the A.S.S. steamers lay within half a mile of shore; + and, 'barrin'' the ducking, it was easy to land. But the bay is bossed + with rocks and skirted with shoals; they lurk treacherously under water, + and have brought many a tall ship to grief. As for the obsolete + hydrographic charts, they only add to the danger. Two wrecks give us ample + warning. One is a German barque lying close to the bar of the fussy little + river; the other, a huge mass of rust, is the hapless <i>Yoruba</i>. Years + ago, after the fashion of the <i>Nigritia</i> and the <i>Monrovia</i>, she + was carelessly lost. Though anchored in a safe place, when swinging round + she hit upon a rock and was incontinently ripped up; the injured + compartment filled, and the skipper ran her on the beach, wrecking her + according to Act of Parliament. They once managed to get her off, but she + had not power to stem the seas, and there she still lies high and dry. + </p> + <p> + Cape Palmas, or Bamnepo, with its outlying islet-reef of black rock, on + which breaks an eternal surf, is the theoretical turning-point from the + Windward coast, which begins with the Senegal, to the Leeward, and which + ends in the Benin Bight. We are entering the region + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + <i>Unde nigerrimus Auster</i> + Nascitur. +</pre> + <p> + Practically and commercially the former is worked by the Bristol barques + and the latter commences at Cape Threepoints. The bold headland, a hundred + feet tall and half a mile broad by a quarter long, bounded north by its + river, has a base of black micaceous granite supporting red argillaceous + loam. Everywhere beyond the burning of the billows the land-surface is + tapestried with verdure and tufted with cocoas; they still show the + traditional clump which gave the name recorded by Camoens. The neck + attaching the head to the continent-body is a long, low sand-spit; and the + background sweeps northward in the clear grassy stretches which African + travellers agree to call 'parks.' These are fronted by screens of tall + trees, and backed by the blue tops of little hills, a combination which + strongly reminded me of the Gaboon. + </p> + <p> + The prominent building is still the large white-washed mission-house with + its ample windows and shady piazzas: the sons of St. Benedict could not + have placed it better. In rear lies the square tower yclept a lighthouse, + and manipulated like that of Monrovia; its range is said to be thirteen + miles, but it rarely shows beyond five. An adjacent flagstaff bears above + the steamer-signal the Liberian arms, stripes and a lone star not unknown + to the ages between Assyria and Texas. The body of the settlement lying + upon the river is called Harper, after a 'remarkable negro,' and its + suburbs lodge the natives. When I last visited it the people were rising + to the third stage of their architecture. The first, or nomad, is the hide + or mat thrown over a bush or a few standing sticks; then comes the + cylinder, the round hovel of the northern and southern regions, with the + extinguisher or the oven-shaped thatch-roof; and, lastly, the square or + oblong form which marks growing civilisation. The American missionaries + laboured strenuously to build St. Mark's Hospital and Church, the latter a + very creditable piece of lumber-work, with 500 seats in nave and aisles. + But now everything hereabouts is 'down in its luck.' This puerile copy, or + rather caricature, of the United States can console itself only by saying, + 'Spero meliora.' + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0003" id="link2HCH0003"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XIV. — FROM CAPE PALMAS TO AXIM. + </h2> + <p> + I had no call to land at Cape Palmas. All my friends had passed away; the + Rev. C. E. Hoffman and Bishop Payne, both in America. Mr. Potter, of the + stores, still lives to eat rice and palm-oil in retirement; but with the + energetic Macgill departed the trade and prosperity of the place. Senator + John Marshall, of Marshall's Hotel, has also gone to the many, and the + stranger's only place of refuge is a mean boarding-house. + </p> + <p> + Much injury was done to the settlement by the so-called 'Grebo war.' These + wild owners of Cape Palmas are confounded by Europeans with the true + Krumen, their distant cousins. The tribal name is popularly derived from + <i>gré</i>, or <i>gri</i>, the jumping monkey, and it alludes to a late + immigration. A host of some 20,000 savages closely besieged the settlement + and ravaged all the lands belonging to the intruders, especially the fine + 'French farm.' Fighting ended with a 'treaty of peace and renewal of + allegiance' (<i>sic!</i>) at Harper on March 1, 1876, following the + 'battle of Harper' (October 10, 1875). The latter, resulting from an + attack on Grebo Big Town, proved a regular 'Bull's Run,' wherein the + citizens lost all their guns and ammunition, and where the Grebes + slaughtered my true and trusty steward, Selim Agha. + </p> + <p> + I must allow myself a few lines in memory of a typical man. Selim was a + Nubian of lamp-black skin; but his features were Semitic down to the + nose-bridge, and below it, like the hair, distinctly African: this mixture + characterises the negroid as opposed to the negro. In the first fourth of + the present century he was bought by Mr. Thurburn—<i>venerabile + nomen</i>—of Alexandria, and sent for education to North Britain. + There he learned to speak Scotch, to make turtle-soup, to stuff birds, to + keep accounts, and to be useful and valuable in a series of ways. Then his + thoughts, full of philanthropy, turned towards the 'old mother.' The + murder of Dr. Barth's companion, Vogel, in 1856, originated seven + fruitless expeditions to murderous Wadáy, and he made sundry journeys into + the interior. I believe that he took service for some time with Lieutenant + (now Sir John H.) Glover before he became my factotum between 1860 and + 1865. When I left the Coast he transferred himself to Liberia, where, he + wrote, they proposed to 'run him for the presidency.' Selim joined the + Monrovians during the Grebo war as an assistant-surgeon, his object being + to mitigate the horrors of the campaign; and he met his death on October + 9, 1875, during the mismanaged attack on Grebo Big Town. Captain A. B. + Ellis, in his amusing and outspoken 'West African Sketches,' quotes from + the 'Liberian Independent' the following statement: 'Mr. Selim Agha was + also overtaken by the barbarous Greboes, and one of them, "Bye Weah" by + name, after allowing him to read his Bible, which he had by him in his + pocket, and which he made a present of to the barbarian, chopped his body + all about, chopped off his head, which he took to his town with eighteen + others, and threw the body with the gift into the swamp.' The account + sounds trustworthy, especially that about the Bible: it is exactly what + the poor fellow would have done. But many have assured me that he was + slaughtered by mistake during the rout of his party. R.I.P. + </p> + <p> + Another reminiscence. + </p> + <p> + Although it has melancholy associations, I can hardly remember without a + smile my last visit to good Bishop Payne. He led me to the mission-school, + a shed that sheltered settles and desks, tattered books, slates and + boards, two native pedagogues, and two lines of pupils sized from the + right, the biggest being nearest the 'boss.' We took our places upon the + bench, and the catechiser, when bade to begin, opened, after a little + hesitation, as follows:— + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + <i>Q</i>. Who he be de fuss man?—<i>A</i>. Adam. + <i>Q</i>. Who he be de fuss woman?—<i>A</i>. Ebe. + <i>Q</i>. Whar de Lord put 'em?—<i>A</i>. In de garden. + <i>Q</i>. What he be de garden?—<i>A</i>. Eden. + <i>Q</i>. What else he be dere?—<i>A</i>. De sarpint. + <i>Q</i>. What he be de sarpint?—<i>A</i>. De snake. + <i>Q</i>. Heigh! What, de snake he 'peak?—<i>A</i>. No, him be debbil. +</pre> + <p> + And so forth. The reading was much in the same style. The whole scene + reminded me of a naďve narrative [Footnote: <i>The Gospel to the Africans: + Narrative of the Life and Labours of the Rev. William Jameson.</i> London: + Hamilton, Adams, & Co., 1861.] which gives the 'following account of + the fall of our First Parents from the lips of an aged negro at the + examination of candidates:'— + </p> + <p> + 'Massa (God) said Adam must nyamee (eat) all de fruit ob de garden, but + (be out, except) de tree of knowledge. And he said to Adam, "Adam! you no + muss nyamee dis fruit, else you dead." De serpent come to say to Mammy + Eve, "Dis fruit berry good; he make you too wise." Mammy she take lillee + (little) bit, and bring de oder harf gib Daddy Adam. Daddee no will taste + it fuss time, but Mammy tell him it be berry good. Den him nyamee de oder + harf. Den Daddy and Mammy been know dat dem be naked. Dey go hide for + bush. Massa come from heaven, but Him no fin' Adam all about. Den Massa + strike Him foot on de ground and say, "I wage Adam been nyamee de fruit." + Massa go seek Adam and fin' him hidin' in de bush, and put him out ob de + garden. Then Daddy and Mammy dey take leaves and sew 'em for clothes.' + </p> + <p> + The Bishop looked on approvingly. We then spoke of the mysterious Mount + Geddia, the Lybian Thala Oros of Ptolemy. [Footnote: Lib. iv. 6, §§ 12, + 14, 16, the home of the Thála tribe.] + </p> + <p> + The people say that it may be seen at times from Settra Kru, that the + distance by round road is some 200 miles, and that none have ascended it + on account of the intense cold. If this be fact, there is a Kilima-njáro + 18,000 feet high in Western Africa. The glitter of the white cap has been + visible from great distances, and some would explain it by a bare vein of + quartz—again, Kilima-njáro. The best time to travel would be in + October or November, after the rains; and the Grebo rascals might be paid + and persuaded to supply an escort. + </p> + <p> + At Cape Palmas we engaged thirty so-called Krumen: only seven were ready + to accompany us, and the rest came nearly two months behind time. This is + the farming season, and the people do not like to leave their field-lands. + Jack Davis, headman, chief, crimp and 'promising' party, had been warned + to be ready by Mr. R. B. N. Walker, whose name and certificate he wore + upon a big silver crescent; but as <i>Senegal</i> appeared on Sunday + instead of Saturday, he gravely declared that his batch had retired to + their plantations—in black-man's English, 'small countries.' We were + compelled to make an advance, a measure unknown of old, and to pay more + than double hire for working on the Gold Coast. These races, Kruboys, + Grebos, and their cognates, have not improved during the last score of + years. Their headmen were old hands approaching the fifties: now they are + youths of twenty-five. The younger sort willingly engaged for three years; + now they begin to notch their tallies for every new moon, and they wax + home-sick after the tenth month. Once they were content to carry home a + seaman's chest well filled with 'chow-chow' and stolen goods; in these + days they must have ready money to deal with the Bristol barques. + </p> + <p> + Having before described the 'Kráo' and the Kru republic, with its four + recognised castes, I need not repeat myself. [Footnote: <i>Wanderings</i>, + &c., vol. ii. chap. vi., which ends with a short specimen of the + language.] We again admired the magnificent development of muscle, which + stood out in bunches as on the Farnese Hercules, set off by the most + appropriate dress, a coloured oblong of loin-cloth, tucked in at the + waist. We marvelled too at the contrast of Grecian figure and + cynocephalous features, whose frizzly thatch, often cut into garden-plots, + is unnecessarily protected by a gaudy greasy cap. + </p> + <p> + In morals too these men are as peculiar as they are contradictory. They + work, and work well: many old Coasters prefer them to all other tribes. + They are at their best in boats or on board ship, especially ships of war, + where they are disciplined. For carrying burdens, or working in the bush, + they are by no means so valuable and yet, as will be seen, they are highly + thought of by some miners in the Gold Mines. In the house they are at + their worst; and they are a nuisance to camp, noisy and unclean. Their + chief faults are lying and thieving; they are also apt to desert, to grow + discontented, to presume, and ever to ask for more. These qualities are + admirably developed in our headman, Toby Johnson, and his gang. I should + not travel again with Krumen on the Gold Coast. + </p> + <p> + Another of their remarkable characteristics is the fine union of the + quarrelsome with the cowardly. Like the Wányamwezi of East-Central Africa, + they will fight amongst themselves, and fight furiously; but they feel no + shame in telling their employers that they sell their labour, not their + lives; that man can die but once; that heads never grow again, and that to + battling they prefer going back to 'we country.' If a ship take fire all + plunge overboard like seals, and the sound of a gun in the bush makes them + run like hares. Yet an English officer actually proposed to recruit a + force of these recreants for field-service in Ashanti. He probably + confounded them with the Wásawahili, the 'Seedy-boys' of the east coast, a + race which some day will prove useful when the Sepoy mutiny shall repeat + itself, or if the difficulties in Egypt be prolonged. A few thousands of + these sturdy fellows would put to flight an army of hen-hearted Hindús or + Hindís. + </p> + <p> + We left Cape Palmas at 5 P.M., and duly respected the five-fathom deep + 'Athole Rock,' so called from the frigate which first made its + acquaintance. The third victim was the B. and A. s.s. <i>Gambia</i> + (Captain Hamilton). [Footnote: Curiously enough a steamer carrying another + fine of palm-oil has come to grief, owing, as usual, to imperfect charts.] + She was carrying home part of the 400 puncheons exacted, after the + blockade of 1876, by way of fine, from Gelelé, King of Dahome, by the + senior naval officer, Captain Sullivan, the Dhow-chaser. The Juju-men + naturally declared that their magic brought her to such notable grief. + </p> + <p> + We then passed Grand Tabú (Tabou), in the middle of the bay formed by + Point Tahou—a coast better known fifty years ago than it is now. The + only white resident is Mr. Julio, who has led a rather accidented life. A + native of St. Helena, he fought for the Northerners in the American war, + and proved himself a first-rate rifle-shot. He traded on the Congo, and + travelled like a native far in the interior. Now he has married a wife + from Cape Palmas, and is the leading man at Tabú. + </p> + <p> + This place, again, is a favourite labour-market. The return of the Krumen + repeats the spectacles of Sinou, and war being here chronic, the canoe-men + come off armed with guns, swords, and matchets. After a frightful storm of + tongues, and much bustle but no work, the impatient steamer begins to + waggle her screw; powder-kegs and dwarf boxes are tossed overboard, and + every attention is bestowed upon them; whilst a boy or two is left behind, + either to swim ashore or to find a 'watery grave.' + </p> + <p> + Presently we sighted the bar and breakers that garnish the mouth of the + Cavally (Anglicč Cawally) River: the name is properly Cavallo, because it + lies fourteen miles, riding-distance, from Cape Palmas. Here Bishop Payne + had his head-quarters, and his branch missions extended sixty miles + up-stream. On the left bank, some fifteen or sixteen miles from the <i>embochure</i>, + resides the 'Grand Devil,' equivalent to the Great God, of Krúland. The + place is described as a large caverned rock, where a mysterious 'Suffing' + (something) answers, through an interpreter, any questions in any tongue, + even English, receiving, in return for the revelations, offerings of + beads, leaf-tobacco, and cattle, which are mysteriously removed. The + oracle is doubtless worked by some sturdy knave, a 'demon-doctor,' as the + missionaries call him, who laughs at the beards of his + implicitly-believing dupes. A tree growing near the stream represents + 'Lot's wife's pillar;' some sceptical and Voltairian black was punished + for impious curiosity by being thus 'translated.' Skippers who treated + their 'boys' kindly were allowed, a score of years ago, to visit the + place, and to join in the ceremonies, even as most of the Old Calabar + traders now belong to the 'Egbo mystery.' But of late years a village + called Hidya, with land on both banks, forbids passage. Moreover, Krumen + are not hospitable. Masters and men, cast ashore upon a coast which they + have visited for years to hire hands, are stripped, beaten, and even + tortured by women as well as by men. The savages have evidently not learnt + much by a century's intercourse with Europeans. + </p> + <p> + Leaving Cavally, the last place where Kruboys can be shipped, we coasted + along the fiery sands snowed over with surf and set in the glorious + leek-green growth that distinguishes the old Ivory Coast. The great Gulf + Stream which, bifurcating at the Azores, sweeps southwards with easting, + now sets in our favour; it is, however, partly a wind-current, and here it + often flows to the west even in winter. The ever-rolling seas off this + 'Bristol coast' are almost clear of reef and shoal, and the only storms + are tornadoes, which rarely blow except from the land: from the ocean they + are exceedingly dangerous. Such conditions probably suggested the Bristol + barque trade, which still flourishes between Cape Palmas and Grand Bassam. + A modern remnant of the old Bristolian merchant-adventurers, it was + established for slaving purposes during the last century by Mr. Henry + King, maintained by his sons, Richard who hated men-of-war, and William + who preferred science, and it is kept up by his grandsons for legitimate + trade. + </p> + <p> + The ships—barques and brigs—numbering about twenty-five, are + neat, clean, trim craft, no longer coppered perpendicularly [Footnote: + Still occurs sometimes: the idea is that as they roll more than they sail + less strain is brought on the seams of the copper.] instead of + horizontally after the older fashion. Skippers and crews are well paid for + the voyage, which lasts from a year to fifteen months. The floating + warehouses anchor off the coast where it lacks factories, and pick up the + waifs and strays of cam-wood, palm-oil, and kernels, the peculiar export + of the Gold Coast: at times a tusk or a little gold-dust finds its way on + board. The trader must be careful in buying the latter. Not only have the + negroes falsified it since the days of Bosnian, but now it is made in + Birmingham. This false dust resists nitric acid, yet is easily told by + weight and bulk; it blows away too with the breath, whilst the true does + not. Again, the skippers have to beware of 'fetish gold,' mostly in the + shape of broken-up ornaments of inferior ley. + </p> + <p> + The Bristolians preserve the old 'round trade,' and barter native produce + against cloth and beads, rum and gin, salt, tobacco, and gunpowder. These + ship-shops send home their exports by the mail-steamers, and vary their + monotonous days by visits on board. They sail home when the cargoes are + sold, each vessel making up her own accounts and leaving 'trust,' but no + debts. The life must be like making one's home in a lighthouse, plus an + eternal roll; and the line gives a weary time to the mail-steamers, as + these never know exactly where the Bristol barques will be found. + </p> + <p> + After hugging the coast and prospecting Biribi, we sighted the Drewins, + whose natives are a powerful and spirited race, equally accustomed to + either element. There are no better canoe-men on the coast. They ship only + on board the Bristol ships, and they have more than once flogged a cruel + skipper caught ashore. Passing King George's Town, we halted (11 A.M., + January 23) opposite the river and settlement of Fresco, where two barques + and a cutter were awaiting supplies. Fresco-land is beautified by + perpendicular red cliffs, and the fine broad beach is feathered with + cocoas which suggest <i>kopra</i>—the dried meat of the split + kernel. At 3.15 P.M. came Grand Lahou—Bosman's Cabo La Hoe—180 + miles from Cape Palmas. The native settlements of nut-brown huts in the + clearings of thick forests resemble heaps of withered leaves. The French + have re-occupied a fort twenty miles up the pretty barless river, the + outlet of a great lagoon; it was abandoned during the Prusso-Gallic war. + Nine Bristol barques were lying off Three Towns, a place not upon the + chart, and at Half-Jack, 205 miles from the Cape. Here we anchored and + rolled heavily through the night, a regular seesaw of head and heels. + Seamen have prejudices about ships, pronouncing some steady and others + 'uncommon lively.' I find them under most circumstances 'much of a + muchness.' + </p> + <p> + The next morning carried us forty miles along the Bassam country and + villages, Little, Piccaninny, and Great, to Grand Bassam. It is a regular + lagoon-land, whose pretty rivers are the outlets of the several sweet + waters and the salt-ponds. Opposite Piccaninny Bassam heads, with its + stalk to the shore and spreading out a huge funnel eastward and westward, + the curious formation known as the 'Bottomless Pit.' The chart shows a + dot, a line, and 200 fathoms. In these days of deep-sea soundings I would + recommend it to the notice of the Hydrographic Office. We know exactly as + much about it in A.D. 1882 as in A.D. 1670, when Ogilvy wrote, 'Six miles + beyond Jak, in Jakko, [Footnote: Bosman's <i>Jaqui-Jaqui</i>] is the <i>Bottomless + Pit</i>, so called from its unfathomable deepness, for the seamen, having + Sounded with their longest Lines and Plummets, could never reach the + bottom.' It would be interesting to know whether it is an area of + subsidence or a volcanic depression. The adjacent Gold Coast suffers from + terrible earthquakes, as Accra learnt to her cost in 1862. + </p> + <p> + At 10 A.M. we made Grand Bassam, where the French have had a <i>Résidence</i> + for many years. Here the famous Marseille house of Régis Frčres first made + fortune by gold-barter. The precious ore, bought by the middlemen, a + peculiar race, from the wild tribes of the far interior, appears in the + shape of dust with an occasional small nugget; the traders dislike bars + and ingots, because they are generally half copper. We have now everywhere + traced the trade from Gambia to the Gold Coast, and we may fairly conclude + that all the metal comes from a single chain of Ghauts subtending the + maritime region. + </p> + <p> + Grand Bassam is included in the French <i>Côte d'Or</i>, but not in the + English Gold Coast, which begins east of the Ivory Coast. The Dutch was + even narrower, according to Bosnian: 'Being a part of Guinea, it is + extended about sixty miles, beginning with the Gold River (Assini) twelve + miles above Axim, and ending with Ponni, seven or eight miles east of + Accra.' Grand Bassam has only two European establishments. Eastward lies + the 'Blockhouse' of M. Verdier, 'agent of the Government at Assini,' so + called from its battlemented roof. It is the old Fort Nemours, built in + 1843. The 'Poste,' abandoned during the war of 1870, was let to Messieurs + Swanzy; it is a series of ridge-roofs surrounded by a whitewashed + stockade. Both have been freely accused of supplying the Ashantis with + arms and ammunition during the last war. Similarly the Gambia is said to + have supported the revolteds of Senegal. The site is vile, liable to be + flooded by sea and rain. The River Akbu or Komo (Comoe), with its spiteful + little bar, drains the realms of Amatifú, King of Assini. It admits small + craft, and we see the masts of a schooner amid the trees. The outlet of + immense lagoons to the east and west, it winds down behind the factories, + and bears the native town upon its banks. Here we discharged only + trade-gin, every second surf-boat and canoe upsetting; the red cases piled + upon the beach looked like a bed of rose-buds. The whole of this coast, as + far as Axim, is so dangerous that men land with their lives in their + hands. They disembark when outward-bound and re-embark when + homeward-bound, and in the interim they never tempt surf and sharks. + </p> + <p> + The <i>Senegal</i> left Grand Bassam at 5.30 P.M., to cover the + eighty-five miles separating us from our destination. The next important + feature is the Assini River, also the outlet of enormous navigable + lagoons, breaking the continuity of forest-backed sands. It lies fourteen + to fifteen miles (which the chart has diminished to seven) west of the + French settlement, of old Fort Joinville. The latter shows a tiled and + whitewashed establishment, the property of M. Verdier, outlying the normal + ant-hill of brown huts. In 1868 Winwood Reade here found a <i>poste</i> + and stockade, a park of artillery, a commandant, a surgeon, and a + detachment of <i>tirailleurs sénégalais</i> levied amongst the warlike + Moslem tribes of Senegambia. Like Grand Bassam it was under the station + admiral, who inspected the two once a year, and who periodically sent a + gunboat to support French interests. + </p> + <p> + By night we passed New Town, not on the charts, but famed for owning a + fine gold placer north of the town-lagoon. After my departure from the + coast it was inspected by Mr. Grant, who sent home specimens of bitumen + taken from the wells. Then came the two Assinis, eastern and western, both + places of small present importance. The 'Assini Hills' of the chart lie to + the north, not to the south of the Tando water; and by day one can easily + distinguish their broken line, blue and tree-clad. The Franco-English + frontier has been determined after a fashion. According to Mr. Stanford's + last map, [Footnote: Gold Coast, November 20, 1873. A foot-note tells us, + 'The whole coast belongs to the English, the French having withdrawn since + 1870 from Grand Bassam and Assini' (Winwood Reade). This is obsolete in + 1882. The limits of Ashanti-land are immensely exaggerated by this map.] + the westernmost point was in west long. 2ş 55' (G.) Thus our territory + begins between Great Assini and New Town, the latter being included in the + Protectorate. This position would reduce the old Gold Coast from 245 + direct geographical miles of shore-line between the River Assini (W. long. + 3ş 23') and the Volta mouth (E. long. 0ş 42') to some 217 or 220 in round + numbers. Inland the limit should be the Tando valley, but it has been + fancifully traced north from the Eyhi lagoon, the receptacle of the Tando, + on a meridian of W. long. 2ş 50' (G.) to a parallel of N. lat. 6ş 30', or + ninety-eight miles from the coast about Axim (N. lat. 4ş 52'). Thence it + bends east and south-east to the Ofim, or western fork of the Bosom Prah, + and ascends the Prah proper, separating Ashanti-land (north) from + Fanti-land (south). + </p> + <p> + It should be our object to acquire by purchase or treaty, or both, the + whole territory subject to Grand Bassam and Assini. The reasons may be + gathered from the preceding pages. + </p> + <p> + By night we also passed Cape Apollonia and its four hummocks, which are + faintly visible from Axim. The name has nothing to do, I need hardly say, + with Apollo or his feasts, the Apollonić, nor has it any relationship with + the admirable 'Apollinaris water.' It was given by the Portuguese from the + saint [Footnote: Butler's <i>Lives</i> gives 'S. Apollonia (not Appolonia, + as the miners have it), v.m. February 9.' This admirable old maid leaped + into the fire prepared for her by the heathen populace of Alexandria when + she refused to worship their 'execrable divinity.' There are also an + Apollonius (March 5), 'a zealous holy anchorite' of Egyptian Antinous; and + Apollinaris, who about A.D. 376 began to 'broach his heresy,' denying in + Christ a human soul.] who presided over the day of discovery. In the early + half of the present century the King of Apollonia ruled the coast from the + Assini to the Ancobra Rivers; the English built a fort by permission at + his head-quarters, and carried on a large trade in gold-dust. Meredith + (1800) tells us that, when his Majesty deceased, some twenty men were + sacrificed on every Saturday till the 'great customs' took place six + months afterwards. The underlying idea was, doubtless, that of Dahome: the + potentate must not go, like a 'small boy,' alone and unattended to the + shadowy realm. The 'African Cruiser' [Footnote: <i>Journal of an African + Cruiser</i>, by an officer of the U.S. navy. Edited by Nathaniel Hawthorn. + Aberdeen: Clark and Son, 1848.] speaks of the royal palace being + sumptuously furnished in European style; of gold cups, pitchers, and + plates, and of vast treasures in bullion. When the King died sixty victims + were slain and buried with their liege lord; besides a knife, plate, and + cup; swords, guns, cloths, and goods of various kinds. The corpse, smeared + with oil and powdered <i>cap-ŕ-pié</i> with gold-dust, looked like a + statue of the noble ore. + </p> + <p> + As the <i>Senegal</i> advanced under easy steam, we had no rolling off + this roller-coast, and we greatly and regretfully enjoyed the glorious + Harmatan weather, so soon about to cease. The mornings and evenings were + cool and dewy, and the pale, round-faced sun seemed to look down upon us + through an honest northern fog. There was no heat even during the + afternoons, usually so close and oppressive in this section of the + tropics. I only wished that those who marvelled at my preferring to the + blustering, boisterous weather of the Northern Adriatic the genial and + congenial climate of West Africa could have passed a day with me. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0004" id="link2HCH0004"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XV. — AXIM, THE GOLD PORT OF THE PAST AND THE FUTURE. + </h2> + <p> + All the traveller's anxiety about the Known and apprehensions of the + Unknown fell from him like a garment as, after passing the hummocks of + Apollonia, his destination, Axim, [Footnote: The port lies in N. lat. 4ş + 52' 20" (say 5ş round numbers) and in W. long. (Gr.) 2ş 14' 45": it must + not be confounded, as often occurs in England, with 'Akim,' the region + north of Accra.] peeped up over the port-bow at dawn of the 25th of + January. + </p> + <p> + The first aspect of Axim is charming; there is nothing more picturesque + upon this coast. + </p> + <p> + After the gape of the Ancobra River the foreshore gradually bends for a + few miles from a west-east to a north-south rhumb, and forms a bay within + a bay. The larger is bounded north by Akromasi Point, the southern wall of + the great stream; the bold foreland outlain with reefs and a rock like a + headless sphinx, is known from afar, east and west, by its 'one tree,' a + palm apparently double, the leader of a straggling row. On the south of + the greater bay is Point Pépré, by the natives called Inkubun, or + Cocoanut-Tree, from a neighbouring village; like the Akromasi foreland, it + is black and menacing with its long projection of greenstone reefs, whose + heads are hardly to be distinguished from the flotilla of fishing canoes. + The lesser bay, that of Axim proper, has for limits Pépré and the Bosomato + promontory, a bulky tongue on whose summit is a thatched cottage. + </p> + <p> + The background of either bay is a noble forest, a wall of green, the items + being often 150 feet high, with branchless white boles of eighty, + perpendicularly striping the verdure. The regular sky-line—broken by + tall knolls and clumps, whose limits are rivulet-courses and bosky dells; + thrown up by refraction; flecked with shreds of heavy mist + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + That like a broken purpose waste in air; +</pre> + <p> + and dappled with hanging mists, white as snow, and 'sun-clouds,' as the + natives term the cottony nimbus—is easily mistaken, in the dim light + of dawn, for a line of towering cliffs. + </p> + <p> + The sea at this hour is smooth as oil, except where ruffled by + fish-shoals, and shows comparatively free, today at least, from the long + Atlantic roll which lashes the flat coast east of Apollonia. Its selvage + is fretted by green points, golden sands, and a red cove not unlike the + crater-port of Clarence, Fernando Po. The surface is broken by two islets, + apparently the terminal knobs of many reefs which project westward from + the land. To the north rises Asiniba ('Son of Asini'), a pyramid of rock + below and tree-growth above. Fronting the landing-place is Bobowusúa, + [Footnote: The Hyd. Chart calls them Suaba and Bobowassi; it might be a + trifle more curious in the matter of significant words.] or Fetish Island, + a double feature which we shall presently inspect. The foreshore is barred + and dotted perpendicularly by black reefs and scattered <i>diabolitos</i>, + or detached hard-heads, which break the surges. At spring-tides, when rise + and fall reach at least ten feet, and fourteen in the equinoctial ebb and + flow, it appears a gridiron of grim black stone. [Footnote: Not as the + Hyd. Chart says—'rise and fall at springs six or seven feet.'] + </p> + <p> + The settlement, backed by its grand 'bush' and faced by the sea, consists + of a castle and a subject town; it wears, in fact, a baronial and + old-world look. Fort Santo Antonio, a tall white house upon a bastioned + terrace, crowns proudly enough a knob of black rock and low green growth. + On both sides of it, north and south, stretches the town; from this + distance it appears a straggle of brown thatched huts and hovels, + enlivened here and there by some whitewashed establishments, mining or 'in + the mercanteel.' The soil is ruddy and rusty, and we have the usual + African tricolor. + </p> + <p> + The agents of the several Aximite houses came on board. We drained the + normal stirrup-cup and embarked in the usual heavy surf-boat, manned by a + dozen leathery-lunged 'Elmina boys' with paddles, and a helmsman with an + oar. There are smaller surf-canoes, that have weather-boards at the bow to + fend off the waves. Our anchorage-place lies at least two miles + south-west-and-by-south of the landing-place. There is absolutely nothing + to prevent steamers running in except a sunken reef, the Pinnacle or + Hoeven Rock. It is well known to every canoeman. Cameron sounded for it, + and a buoy had been laid by fishermen, but so unskilfully that the surge + presently made a clean sweep. Hence a wilful waste of time and work. I + wrote to Messieurs Elder and Dempster, advising them to replace it for + their own interests and for the convenience of travellers; but in Africa + one is out of the world, and receiving answers is emphatically not the + rule. + </p> + <p> + There is no better landing-place than Axim upon this part of the African + coast. The surf renders it impracticable only on the few days of the worst + weather. We hugged the north of the Bobowusúa rock-islet. When the water + here breaks there is a clear way further north; the southern passage, + paved with rocks and shoals, can be used only when the seas are at their + smoothest. A regular and well-defined channel placed us on the shingly and + sandy beach. We had a succulent breakfast with Messieurs Gillett and Selby + (Lintott and Spink), to whose unceasing kindness and hospitality we + afterwards ran heavily in debt. There we bade adieu to our genial captain + and our jovial fellow-travellers. + </p> + <p> + The afternoon was spent in visiting the Axim fort. Santo Antonio, built by + the Portuguese in the glorious days of Dom Manuel (1495-1521), became the + Hollander Saint Anthony by conquest in 1682, and was formally yielded by + treaty to the Dutch West Indian Company. It came to us by convention at + the Hague; and, marked 'ruined' in the chart, it was repaired in 1873 + before the Ashanti war. It can now act harbour of refuge, and is safe from + the whole power of the little black despotism. Bosman [Footnote: <i>Eerste + Brief</i>, 1737: the original Dutch edition was lent to me by M. Paulus + Dahse.] shows 'Fort St. Antonio' protected by two landward bastions and an + old doorway opening upon a loopholed courtyard. Barbot (1700) sketches a + brick house in gable-shape, based upon a triangular rock. + </p> + <p> + Passing the Swanzy establishment, a model board-house, with masonry posts, + a verandah all round, and a flying roof of corrugated iron, we ascend the + old paved ramp. Here we remark that the castle-gateway of the Dutch, + leading to the outer or slave court, has been replaced by a mean hole in + the wall. The external work was demolished, lest the enemy effect a + lodgement there. We can walk seawards round the green knob scattered with + black boulders, and pick an excellent salad, a kind of African dandelion, + which the carnivorous English miners called 'grass,'—with a big, big + D. Entering the hole in the wall, and passing through a solid arched + gateway and across a small court upon which the prison opens, we ascend + the steps leading to the upper work. This is a large square house, pierced + in front for one door and three windows, and connected by a bridge, + formerly a drawbridge, with the two tall belvideres, once towers guarding + the eastern entrance. The body is occupied by the palaver-hall of the <i>opper + koopman</i> (chief factor), now converted into a court-house and a small + armoury of sniders. It leads to the bedrooms, disposed on three sides. The + materials are trap, quartz, probably gold-bearing, and fine bricks, + evidently home-made. The substantial quarters fronting the sea are breezy, + comfortable, and healthy; and the large cistern contains the only good + drinking-water in Axim. Life must be somewhat dull here, but, after all, + not so bad as in many an out-station of British India. The chief grievance + is that the inmates, the District-commissioner and his medico, are mere + birds of passage; they are ordered off and exchanged, at the will of + head-quarters, often before they can settle down, and always before they + learn to take interest in the place. The works consist of two bastions on + the land side; a large one to the south-east, and a smaller to the + north-east. Seawards projects a rounded cavalier, fronted by dead ground, + or rather water. In the days of the Dutch the platforms carried '22 iron + guns, besides some patteraroes.' Now there are two old bronze guns, two + 'chambeis' bearing the mark 'La Hague,' and an ancient iron tube + dismounted: a seven-pounder mountain-gun, of a type now obsolete, lurks in + the shadows of the arched gateway. I afterwards had an opportunity of + seeing the ammunition, and was much struck by a tub of black mud, which + they told me was gunpowder. The Ashantis at least keep theirs dry. + </p> + <p> + The dispensary appeared equally well found. For some weeks there was a + native assistant; then Dr. Roulston came, and, after a few days, was + ordered off at a moment's notice to the remotest possible station. He had + no laudanum, no Dover's powders, no chlorodyne, no Warburg; and, when + treating M. Dahse for a burst vein, he was compelled to borrow styptics + from our store. This style of economy is very expensive. To state the case + simply, officials last one year instead of two. + </p> + <p> + The late Captain P. D. O'Brien, District-commissioner of Axim, did the + honours, showing us the only 'antiquity' in the place, the tomb of a Dutch + governor, with a rudely cut inscription set in the eastern wall:— + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + WILLEM + SCHOORWAS + COMAD. OP AXEM + 1659. +</pre> + <p> + Amongst the slave-garrison of twenty-five Hausás I found a Wadai-man, + Sergeant Abba Osman, who had not quite forgotten his Arabic. Several + Moslems also appeared about the town, showing that the flood of El-Islam + is fast setting this way. They might profitably be hired as an armed + escort into the pagan interior. + </p> + <p> + Axim, preferably written by the Portuguese 'Axem,' was by them pronounced + Ashim or Ashem: no stress, therefore, must be laid upon its + paper-resemblance with Abyssinian Axum. [Footnote: I allude to <i>The + Guinea or Gold Coast of Africa, formerly a Colony of the Axumites</i> + (London, Pottle and Son, 1880), an interesting pamphlet kindly forwarded + to me by the author, Captain George Peacock. I believe, as he does, that + the West Coast of Africa preserves traces of an ancient connection with + the Nile valley and the eastern regions; but this is not one of them.] + Barbot calls it 'Axim, or Atzyn, or Achen.' The native name is Essim, + which, in the language of the Mfantse or Mfantse-fo (Fanti-race), means + 'you told me,' and in the Apollonian dialect 'you know me.' These fanciful + terms are common, and they allude to some tale or legend which is + forgotten in course of time. The date of its building is utterly unknown. + The Fanti tradition is that their race was driven coastwards, like their + kinsmen the Ashantis, [Footnote: In <i>Wanderings in West Africa</i>, (ii. + 98) I have given the popular derivation of Fanti (Fan-didi = herb-eater) + and Asyanti (Sán-didi = corn-eater). Bowdich wrote 'Ashanti' because he + learnt the word from the Accra-men.] by tribes pressing down upon them + from the north. They must have found the maritime lands occupied, but they + have preserved no notices of their predecessors. The port-town became the + capital of an upper factor, who ruled the whole coast as far as Elmina. It + was almost depopulated, say the old authorities, by long wars with the + more powerful Apollonia; but its commanding position has always enabled it + to recover from the heaviest blows. It is still the threshold of the + western Gold-region, and the principal port of occidental Wásá (Wassaw). + </p> + <p> + We may fairly predict a future for Axim. The town is well situated to + catch the sea-breeze. The climate is equatorial, but exceptionally + healthy, save after the rainy season, which here opens a month or six + weeks earlier than on the leeward coast. The downfall must, however, have + diminished since the times when 'the <i>blacks</i> will tell you the wet + weather lasts eleven months and twenty-nine days in the year.' The rains + now begin with April and end in September. The position is south of the + thermal equator (22ş R. = 81 5ş F.), which runs north lat. 6ş on the + western coast, 15ş in the interior, and 10ş on the eastern seaboard. + [Footnote: Berghaus, following Humboldt, places the probable equator of + temperature (80ş 16') in N. lat. 4ş, or south of Axim, rising to N. lat. + 13ş in Central and in Eastern Africa] Add that the average daily + temperature is 75ş-80ş (F.), rising to 96ş in the afternoon and falling + after midnight to 70ş, and that the wet season on the seaboard is perhaps + the least sickly. We were there in January-March, during an unusually hot + and dry season, following the Harmatan and the Smokes and preceding the + tornadoes and the rains; yet I never felt an oppressive day,—nothing + worse than Alexandria or Trieste in early August. The mornings and + evenings were mostly misty; the moons were clear and the nights were + tolerable. An excessive damp, which mildews and decays everything—clothes, + books, metals, man—was the main discomfort. But we were living, as + it were, in the open, and we neglected morning and evening fires. This + will not be the case when solid and comfortable houses shall be built. The + improvement of lodging and diet accounts for the better health of + Anglo-Africans, as of Anglo-Indians, in the present day. Our predecessors + during the early nineteenth century died of bad shelter, bad food, and bad + drink. + </p> + <p> + The town, built upon a flat partly formed by cutting away the mounds and + hillocks of red clay, was well laid out by Mr. Sam, the + District-commissioner, after its bombardment during the Ashanti war. The + main streets, or rather roads, running north-south, are avenued with shady + Ganian or umbrella figs. I should prefer the bread-tree, which here + flourishes. These thoroughfares are kept clean enough, and nuisances are + punished, as in England. Cross lines, however, are wanted; the crooked + passages between the huts do not admit the sea-breeze. Native hovels, + also, should be removed from the foreshore, which, as Admiralty property, + ought to be kept for public purposes. The native dwellings are composed of + split bamboo-fronds (<i>Raphia vinifera</i>), thatched with the foliage of + the same tree. They are mere baskets—airy, and perhaps too airy. + Some are defended against wind and wet by facings of red swish; a few, + like that of the 'king' and chief native traders, are built of adobes + (sun-dried bricks), whitewashed outside. Of this kind, too, are the stores + and the mining establishments; the 'Akankon House,' near the + landing-place; the 'Gold Coast House,' in the interior; the Methodist + chapel, a barn-shaped affair; the Effuenta House to the north, and the + Tákwá, or French House, to the south. + </p> + <p> + 'Sanitation,' however, is loudly called for; and if cholera come here it + will do damage. The southern part of the narrow ledge bearing the town, + and including the French establishment, is poisoned by a fetid, stagnant + pool, full of sirens, shrimps, and anthropophagous crabs, which after + heavy rains cuts a way through its sand-bar to the sea. This <i>marigot</i> + is the 'little shallow river Axim,' the Achombene of Barbot, which the + people call Awaminísu ('Ghost's or Deadman's Water'). To the north also + there are two foul nullahs, the Eswá and the Besáon, which make the + neighbourhood pestilential. In days to come the latter will be restored to + its old course east of the town and thrown into the Awaminísu, whose mouth + will be kept open throughout the year. The eastern suburbs, so to call + them, want clearing of offal and all manner of impurities. Beyond the + original valley of the Besáon the ground rises and bears the wall of trees + seen from the offing. There is, therefore, plenty of building-room, and + long heads have bought up all the land in that direction. Mr. Macarthy, of + the School of Mines, owns many concessions in this part of the country. + </p> + <p> + All the evils here noted can easily be remedied. As in the Cairo of + Mohammed Ali's day, every house-holder should be made responsible for the + cleanliness of his surroundings. The Castle-prison, too, rarely lodges + fewer than a dozen convicts. These men should be taken away from + 'shot-drill' and other absurdities of the tread-mill type, which diversify + pleasant, friar-like lives of eating and drinking, smoking, sleeping, and + chatting with one another. Unfortunately, humanitarianism does not allow + the lash without reference to head-quarters. Labour must therefore be + light; still it would suffice to dig up the boulders from the main + thoroughfares, to clean the suburbs, and to open the mouths of the fetid + and poisonous lagoons. + </p> + <p> + Mr. William M. Grant, the clever and active agent of our friend Mr. James + Irvine, came on board to receive us, and housed us and our innumerable + belongings in his little bungalow facing 'Water Street.' We found life at + Axim pleasant enough. Even in these days of comparative barbarism, or at + best of incipient civilisation, the station is not wholly desert. The + agents of the several firms are hospitable in the extreme. Generally also + a manager of the inner mines, or a new comer, enlarges the small circle. + There is a flavour of England in 'A. B. and Co., licensed dealers in wine + and spirits, wholesale and retail,' inscribed upon boards over the + merchants' doors; also in the lawn-tennis, which I have seen played in a + space called by courtesy a square: Cameron, by-the-bye, has hired it, + despite some vexatious local opposition, and it will be a fine <i>locale</i> + for the Axim Hotel now being opened. Sunday is known as a twenty-four + hours of general idleness and revelry: your African Christian is + meticulous upon the subject of 'Sabbath;' he will do as little work as + possible for six days, and scrupulously repose upon the seventh. Whether + he 'keeps it holy' is quite another matter, into which I do not care to + enquire. Service- and school-hours are announced by a manner of + peripatetic belfry—a negroling walking about with a cracked + muffin-bell. From the chapel, which adjoins some wattled huts, the + parsonage, surges at times a prodigious volume of sound, the holloaing of + hymns and the bellowing of anthems; and, between whiles, the sable + congregation, ranged on benches and gazing out of the windows, 'catches it + 'ot and strong' from the dark-faced Wesleyan missionary-schoolmaster. + </p> + <p> + We were never wearied of the 'humours' of native Axim. The people are not + Fantis, but Apollonians, somewhat differing in speech with the Oji; both + languages, however, are mutually intelligible. [Footnote: Oji is also + written Otschi, Tschi, Chwee, Twi, Tswi, Otyi, Tyi, or whatever German + ingenuity can suggest. I can hardly explain why the late Keith Johnston + (Africa) calls the linguistic family 'Ewe' (Ewhe, or properly Whegbe), + after a small section of the country, Dahome, Whydah, &c. He was + probably led to it by the publications of the Bâle and other German + missions.] The men are the usual curious compound of credulity and + distrust, hope and fatalism, energy and inaction, which make the negro so + like the Irish character. But we must not expect too much from the + denizens of African seaports, mostly fishermen who will act + hammock-bearers, a race especially fond of Bacchus and worshippers of the + 'devil Venus.' Perhaps a little too much license is allowed to them in the + matter of noisy and drunken 'native customs,' palavers, and pow-wows. They + rarely go about armed; if you see a gun you know that the bearer is a + huntsman. They are easily commanded, and, despite their sympathies with + Ashanti-land, they are not likely to play tricks since their town was + bombarded. In the villages they are civil enough, baring the shoulders, + like taking off the hat, when they meet their rulers. Theirs, also, is the + great virtue of cleanliness; even when the mornings are coldest you see + them bathing on the beach. They are never pinched for food, and they have + high ideas of diet. 'He lib all same Prince; he chop cow and sheep ebery + day, and fowl and duck he be all same vegeta'l.' They have poultry in + quantities, especially capons, sheep with negro faces like the Persian, + dwarf milch-goats of sturdy build, dark and dingy pigs, and cattle whose + peculiarity it is to be either black or piebald. The latter are neat + animals like the smallest Alderneys, with short horns, and backs flat as + tables. There are almost as many bulls as there are cows, and they herd + together without fighting. Being looked upon as capital, and an honour to + the owner, they are never killed; and, although the udders of cows and + goats are bursting with milk, they are never milked. + </p> + <p> + The women differ very little from their sisters of the Eastern Gold Coast. + You never see beauty beyond the <i>beauté du diable</i> and the naďve and + piquant plainness which one admires in a pug-pup. The forms are + unsupported, and the figure falls away at the hips. They retain the savage + fashion of coiffure shown in Cameron's 'Across Africa,' training their + wool to bunches, tufts, and horns. The latter is the favourite; the + pigtails, which stand stiff upright, and are whipped round like pricks of + tobacco, may number half a dozen: one, however, is the common style, and + the size is said to be determined by a delicate consideration. Opposed to + this is the highly civilised <i>atufu</i>, 'kankey,' or bussle, whose + origin is disputed. Some say that it prevents the long cloth clinging to + the lower limbs, others that it comes from a modest wish to conceal the + forms; some make it a jockey-saddle for the baby, others a mere + exaggeration of personal development, an attempt to make Aphrodite a + Callipygé. I hold that it arose, in the mysterious hands of 'Fashion,' + from the knot which secures the body-cloth, and which men wear in front or + by the side. Usually this bussle is a mere bundle of cloth; on dress + occasions it is a pad or cushion. I had some trouble to buy the specimen, + which Cameron exhibited in London. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> +Men and women are vastly given to 'chaffing' and to nicknaming. Every +child, even in the royal houses, takes a first name after the week-day +[Footnote: + Men. Women. + Adwo (Monday-born) ... Kajo (Cuddjo) ... Adwoa. + Bena (Tuesday-born) ... Kwábina ... Abiena. + Wuku (Wednesday-born) ... Kwáko ... Akudea. + Tan (Thursday-born) ... Kwáo ... Yá (Yawá). + Afio (Friday-born) ... Kofi (Coffee) ... Afuá. + Amu (Saturday-born) ... Kwámina ... Amma. + Ayisi (Sunday-born) ... Kwasi ... Akosúa (Akwasiba). +</pre> + <p> + Monday is the first day of the Oji week. The Sunday-born is corrupted to + 'Quashy,' well known in the United States; hence also the 'bitter cup' of + <i>guassia</i>-wood. The names of the days are taken from the seven Powers + which rule them. Kwa-Si would be Kwá (=<i>akoa</i>, man, slave), and Ayisi + (a man) belonging to Ayisi. Amongst the Accra people the first-born are + called Téte (masc.) and Dede (fem.), the second Tété and Koko, and the + rest take the names of the numerals. So we have Septimus, Decimus, &c.] + of its birth, and strangers after that on which they land. Cameron, who + shaved his hair, was entitled 'Kwábina Echipu'—Tuesday Baldhead. I + became Sásá Kwési (Fetish Sunday), from a fancied clerical appearance, + Sásá being probably connected with Sásábonsam, 'a huge earth-demon of + human shape and fiery hue.' He derives from <i>asase</i> ('earth'), and <i>abonsam</i>, + some evil ghost who has obtained a permanent bad name. Missionaries + translate the latter word 'devil,' and make it signify an evil spirit + living in the upper regions, or our popular heaven, and reigning over + Abonsamkru, the last home of souls, or rather shades of the wicked. Thus + <i>sasabonsam</i> would be equivalent to <i>Erdgeist</i>, <i>Waldteufel</i>, + or <i>Kobold</i>, no bad nickname for a miner. The people have a wealth of + legend, and some queer tale attached to every wild beast and bird. In days + to come this folk-lore will be collected. + </p> + <p> + The gorbellied children are the pests of the settlement. At early dawn + they roar because they awake hungry and thirsty; they roar during the day + when washed with cold water, and in the evening they roar because they are + tired and sleepy. They are utterly spoiled. They fight like little + Britons; they punch their mothers at three years of age; and, when strong + enough, they 'square up' to their fathers. + </p> + <p> + The first mining business we had to transact was with Kwámina Blay, of + Attabo, Ahin (Ahene) or King of Amrehía, Western Apollonia. He came to + visit us in state on January 28. The vehicle, a long basket, big enough to + lodge a Falstaff, open like a coffin, and lined with red cloth to receive + the royal person and gold-hilted swords, was carried stretcher-fashion by + four sturdy knaves. King Blay is an excellent man, true and 'loyal to the + backbone;' but his Anglo-African garb was, to say the least, peculiar. A + tall cocked hat, with huge red and white plume, contrasted with the dwarf + pigtail bearing a Popo-bead, by way of fetish, at the occiput. His + body-dress was a sky-blue silk, his waist-cloth marigold-yellow, and he + held in hand the usual useless sword of honour, a Wilkinson presented to + him for his courage and conduct in 1873-1874. The Ashanti medal hung from + his neck by a plaited gold chain of native Trichinopoly-work, with a neat + sliding clasp of two cannons and an empty <i>asumamma</i>, or + talisman-case. The bracelets were of Popo-beads and thick gold-wire + curiously twisted into wreath-knots. Each finger bore a ring resembling a + knuckle-duster, three mushroom-like projections springing from each oval + shield. + </p> + <p> + Ahin Blay dismounted with ceremony, and was as ceremoniously received. His + features are those of the Fanti, somewhat darker than usual, and his + expression is kindly and intelligent: though barely fifty-five his head is + frosty and his goatee is snowy. The visit was a state affair, a copy in + small of Ashanti and Dahome. + </p> + <p> + On the left, the place of honour, sat the 'King's father,' that is, eldest + uncle on the female side, evidently younger than his nephew: the language + makes scanty difference between the relationships, and here, as in other + parts of Africa, the ruler adopts a paternity. Six elders, <i>safahins</i> + and <i>panins</i>, [Footnotes: The 'Opanyini' (plur. of 'Opanyin') are the + town-elders forming the council of the Ahin (king) or Caboceer, each with + his own especial charge. The Safahin (Safohine or Osafohene) is the + captain of war; the Ofotosanfo is the treasurer; the Okyame is spy and + speaker, alias 'King's Mouf;' and the Obofo is the messenger, envoy, or + ambassador. The system much resembles that of the village-republics in + Maráthá-land.] sat down, in caps and billycocks; the other fifteen stood + up bareheaded, including the 'King's Stick,' called further south 'King's + Mouf.' This spokesman, like the 'Meu-'minister of Dahome, repeated to his + master our interpreter's words; and his long wand of office was capped + with a silver elephant—King Blay's 'totem,' equivalent to our + heraldic signs. So in Ashanti-land some <i>caboceers</i> cap their huge + umbrellas with the <i>twidam</i>, or leopard, the <i>Etchwee</i>, or + panther, of Bowdich, [Footnote: <i>Mission</i>, &c., p. 230 (orig. + fol.). The other two patriarchal families which preside over the eight + younger branches, making a total of twelve tribes, are the Ekoana (<i>Quonna</i>), + from <i>eko</i> (a buffalo), and the Essona, from <i>esso</i> (a + bush-cat).] and others are members of the <i>Intchwa</i>, or dog-division. + These emblems denote consanguineous descent, and the brotherhood (<i>ntwa</i>) + of the 'totems' is uniformly recognised. Our guest's particular ambition + is a large state-umbrella, capped with a silver elephant carrying in trunk + a sword. He presently received one sent, at my request, by Mr. Irvine. + </p> + <p> + Amongst the elders were scattered small boys, relations of the headmen. + They were all eyes and ears, and in Fanti-land they are formally trained + to make the best of spies. When you see a lad lounging about or quietly + dozing within ear-shot you know at once his mission. + </p> + <p> + The notable parts of the suite were the swordbearers and the band. The + former carried five <i>afőa</i>, peculiar weapons, emblems of royalty. The + blades are licked when swearing; they are despatched with messengers as a + hint to enforce obedience; and they are held, after a fashion, to be holy. + I have never seen more conventional, distorted, and useless weapons. Three + blades showed the usual chopping-bill shape, pierced, like fish-slicers, + with round, semicircular, and angular holes. One, measuring twenty-three + inches and three-quarters, was leaf-formed, dotted with a lozenge-pattern + and set with copper studs. Another was partially saw-toothed. All were of + iron, rusty with the rust of years and hardly sharp enough to cut a pat of + butter. The impossible handles were worthy of the blades, bulging grips + between two huge balls utterly unfitted for handling; four were covered + with thin gold-plate in <i>repoussé</i> work, and one with silver. The + metal was sewn together with thin wire, and the joints had been hammered + to hide them. Cameron sketched them for my coming 'Book of the Sword;' and + Ahin Blay kept his promise by sending me a specimen of the weapon with two + divergent blades used to cut off noses and ears. Bowdich [Footnote: <i>Mission</i>, + &c., p. 312] mentions finely-worked double blades springing parallel + from a single handle; here nothing was known about them. + </p> + <p> + The band consisted of two horns and three drums. Of the latter one was + sheathed in leopard-skin and rubbed, not struck, with two curved sticks. A + second was hourglass-shaped; the sticks were bent to right angles, and the + drummer carried, by way of cymbal, a small round iron plate adjusted to + the fingers with little rings loosely set in the edge. The horns were + scrivelloes, elephant-tusks of small size. At times a horrid braying + denoted the royal titles, and after every blast the liege lord responded + mechanically, 'Kwámina Blay! atinásu marrah' (Monday Blay! here am I). + </p> + <p> + Interviews with African 'kings' consist mainly of compliments, 'dashes' + (presents or heave-offerings), and what is popularly called 'liquoring + up.' Gifts are a sign of affection; hence the proverb, 'If anyone loves + you he will beg of you.' Money, however, is considered pay; curiosities + are presents, and drink is 'dash.' The 'drinkitite' these men develope is + surprising; they swallow almost without interval beer and claret, + champagne and shandigaff, cognac, whisky, and <i>liqueurs</i>. Trade-gin, + [Footnote: This article is made at Hamburg by many houses; the best brand + is held to be that of Van Heyten, and the natives are particular about it. + The prime cost of a dozen-case, each bottle containing about a quart, + fitted with wooden divisions and packed with husks, chaff, or sawdust, is + 3<i>s</i>. 6<i>d</i>.; in retail it is sold for 6<i>s</i>., or 6<i>d</i>. + per bottle. Strange to say, it has the flavour of good hollands. The + latter, however, in small bottles is always to be bought on the Gold + Coast, and can be drunk with safety.] being despised, is turned over to + the followers. Before entering upon this time-wasting process I persuaded + the Ahin and <i>panins</i> to sign the document enabling me formally to + take possession of the 'Izrah Mine.' The paper was duly attested and + witnessed; and the visit ended with a royal 'progress' to the fort, where + the District-commissioner did the rest of the needful. + </p> + <p> + Next day the King made a friendly call without basket or band. His cocked + hat was exchanged for a chimney-pot so 'shocking bad' that no coster would + dare to don it. Such is the custom of the chiefs, and if you give them a + good tile it goes at once into store. He made us promise a return-visit + and set out to collect bearers. + </p> + <p> + Hereabouts a week is as a day. Whilst carriage was collecting we inspected + the neighbourhood of Axim. Our first visit was to Bobowusúa island, a + 'fetish place for palavers,' where the natives object to guns being fired. + Here it was that Admiral van Ruyter built his battery of twelve cannons + and forced Fort Santo Antonio to surrender on January 19, 1642. The rock + is of trap, greenstone, or whinstone, which miners call iron-stone and + Cornishmen 'blue elvan:' this diorite, composed of felspar and the hardest + hornblende, contains granular iron and pyrites like silver. Some specimens + are beautifully banded in onyx-fashion and revetted with 'spar' (quartz) + of many colours, dead-white and crystalline, red and yellow. We find the + same trap on the mainland. Near the smaller Akinim or Salt-pond village + there is a mass threaded with quartz-veins from north to south (1ş 30'), + bossed by granite dykes [Footnote: It is generally believed that these + granite injections have been cooled and consolidated deep below earth's + surface.] trending east-west (96ş 50'), and traversed by a burnt vein + striking 67ş. From the surf-boat we remarked that there were no sharks; + apparently they shun coming within the reefs. Our landing was not pleasant + for the Krumen; the shallow bottom was strewed with rounded pebbles, and + the latter are studded with sharp limpets and corallines. We climbed round + the seaward bluff, fissured with deep narrow clefts, up which the + tide-waves race and roar. Here the trap has a ruddy hue, the salt water + bringing out the iron. Corallines, now several feet above water, clothed + the boulders. This, corroborated by a host of other phenomena, argues a + secular upheaval of the island, and we find the same on the mainland. + There were fragments of grey granite, but not <i>in situ</i>; all had been + washed from the continent, where it outlies all other formations. + Water-rolled bits of brickstone also appeared; and hence, probably, Dr. + Oscar Lenz [Footnote: <i>Geolog. Karte von West-Africa</i>. Gotha, Justus + Perthes, 1882.] makes Axim and the neighbourhood consist of <i>rother + Sandstein</i> upon laterite. + </p> + <p> + Bobowusúa is a cabinet of natural history. The northern flank is ever wet + with dew and spray; the southern shows a little dry earth and sand. The + latter in this and in other parts of the islet is a medley of comminuted + shells. We collected cowries of four kinds, large and small, crabs and + balani, lobsters and sea-urchins (<i>erinacei</i>) with short spines; + diminutive rock-oysters and a large variety with iridescent + mother-o'-pearl, pink, red and yellow. The latter yields a white + seed-pearl, and here, perhaps, we might attempt to develope it into + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + That great round glory of pellucid stuff, + A fish secreted round a grain of grit. +</pre> + <p> + A single snake-slough and an eight-ribbed turtle were found. The short, + sandy neck of the eastern knob is a playground for 'parson-crows' and + scavengers (turkey-buzzards); hawks, kites, and fish-eagles, white and + black, while the adjacent reefs are frequented by gulls, terns, and small + cranes. + </p> + <p> + Above the rock-line is a selvage of low vegetation—ipom[oe]a, white + and mauve-flowered; rushes and tangle-grass, a variety of salsolaceć, and + the cyperus, whose stalk is used like the <i>kalam</i>, or reed-pen, + further east. These growths are filmed with spiders' webs, whose central + shafts lead to their nests. The highest levels, only a few feet above + water, are grown with a dense bush that wants the matchet. Here are + remains of plantations, a little knot of bananas, a single tall cocoanut, + many young palms, and a few felled trunks overgrown with oysters. + Europeans have proposed to build bungalows on Bobowusúa, where they find + fresh sea-air, and a little shooting among the red-breasted ring-doves, + rails, and green pigeons affecting the vegetation. It appears to us a good + place for mooring hulks. The steamers could then run alongside of them and + discharge cargo for the coming tramway, while surf-boats carrying two or + three tons could load for the Ancobra River. + </p> + <p> + The eastern or inner continuation of Bobowusúa is Poké islet, a similar + but smaller block. During spring-tides they are linked together and to the + shore by reefs that stand up high and dry. Poké is the rock where, + according to Barbot, 'the negroes put their wives and children when they + go to war.' The tradition is that the Dutch mined it for silver. The metal + is known to exist in several places on and behind the coast, at Bosumato, + upon the Ancobra River south of 'Akankon,' and even at Kumasi. Besides, + gold has not yet been found here unalloyed with silver. + </p> + <p> + I was fortunate in collecting from this part of Africa stone-implements + before unknown to Europe. My lamented friend Winwood Reade, [Footnote: <i>The + Story of the Ashantee Campaign</i> (pp. 2-4 and 314). London, Smith and + Elder, 1874.] one of those + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Peculiar people whom death <i>has</i> made dear, +</pre> + <p> + was the first to bring them home from the eastern regions, Akwapim + (Aquapim), Prahsu, and the Volta River. Arrived at Axim, I nailed to the + walls of our sitting-room a rough print showing the faces and profiles of + worked stones. The result was a fair supply from the coast both up and + down till I had secured thirteen. [Footnote: I read a paper upon these + stone-implements (July 11, 1882) before the Anthropological Society at the + house of my friend, the President, General A. Pitt-Rivers; and made over + to him my small stock. It will find a home at Oxford, with the rest of his + noble anthropological collection, lately presented to the University.] All + were of the neolithic or ground type; the palćolithic or chipped was + wholly absent, and so were weapons proper, arrowpiles and spear-points. + </p> + <p> + Mr. Carr, the able and intelligent agent of Messieurs Swanzy, brought me + sundry pieces and furnished me with the following notes. The 'belemnites' + are picked up at the stream-mouths after freshets; but the people, like + all others, call them 'lightning-stones' (<i>osráman-bo</i>) or <i>abonua</i>, + simply axe. They suppose the <i>ceraunius</i> to fall with the bolt, to + sink deep in the earth, and to rise to the surface in process of time. The + idea is easily explained. All are comparatively modern, and consequently + thinly covered with earth's upper crust; this is easily washed away by + heavy rains; and, as thunder and lightning accompany the downfalls, the + stones are supposed to be the result. + </p> + <p> + The <i>osráman-bo</i> are used in medicine; they 'cool the heart;' and + water in which they are steeped, when given to children, mitigates + juvenile complaints. One of my collections owes its black colour to having + been boiled in palm-oil by way of preserving its virtues; it resembles the + <i>básanos</i> of Lydian Tmolus; but the Gold Coast touchstone is mostly a + dark jasper imported from Europe. The substance of the thunder-stone is + the greenstone-trap everywhere abundant, and taking with age a creamy + patina like the basalt of the Haurán. I heard, however, that at Abusi, + beyond Anamabo (Bird-rock), and other places further east worked stones of + a lightish slaty hue are common. About New Town and Assini these + implements become very plentiful. Mr. S. Cheetham informs me that the + thinner hatchets, somewhat finger-shaped, are copied in iron by the + peoples of the Benin River. These expert smiths buy poor European metal + and, like other West Africans, turn out a first-rate tool. + </p> + <p> + Axim seems to have been a great centre of stone-manufacture. Mr. Carr + showed us a dozen huge boulders of greenstone, chiefly at the eastern + angle of the wart that bears, in dangerous proximity to his stores, his + powder-magazine. The upper surfaces are scored and striped with + leaf-shaped grooves, formed like old Greek swords; some of them are three + feet long by three inches wide and three deep. I made a sketch of the + place; Cameron photographed it, and on return carried off a huge slice of + the block, which is now in the British Museum. We afterwards found these + striated stones on the sea-ward face of St. Anthony Fort, in northern + Axim, and on other parts of the seaboard. + </p> + <p> + Axim, the gate of this El Dorado, has not yet much reason to thank England + for ruling her. A mean economy annually hoards from 20,000<i>l</i>. to + 30,000<i>l</i>, [Footnote: In 1878 the revenue was 105,091<i>l</i>. and + the expenditure 68,410<i>l</i>., and in other years the contrast was even + greater. The omniscient 'Whittaker' tells us that in 1879 the figures + stood at 54,908<i>l</i>. income versus an outlay of 46,281<i>l</i>.; and + there was no debt.] forwarded to the colonial <i>caisse</i>, to be wasted + upon 'little wars,' and similar miseries, instead of being spent upon + local improvements. The unwholesome bush (the Dutch 'bosch') or wood, + backed by the primćval forest, surges up to the very doors. The little + plank-bridges are out of repair, and the merchants will not supply the + Government with new boards, save for ready money; otherwise payment may be + delayed for a year. The highway to head-quarters, Cape Coast Castle, is a + yellow thread streaking the green, a hunter's path trodden in the jungle. + For 16<i>s</i>. 6<i>d</i>. a private messenger goes to and returns from + the capital, a distance of eighty-two miles, in four or five days. The + public post starts on Wednesdays, halts without reason between Fridays and + Mondays at Sekondi (Seecondee), and consumes a week in the down-march. I + have already noted the want of sanitation, the condition of the + ammunition, and the absence of medical stores. It moves one's sense of the + absurd to compare the desolate condition of the Goldland, which is to + supply the money, with the civilised machinery in England which is to work + it, companies and syndicates, shares, debentures, and what not. + </p> + <p> + I have treated the subject of Axim with a minuteness that is almost + 'porochial;' its future importance must be my excuse. The next chapter + will show that we are truly in the Land of Gold, in an Old New California. + </p> + <p> + And now to conclude this unpleasant account with the good words of old + Barbot: 'Axim, in my opinion, is the most tempting of any on the coast of + <i>Guinea</i>, taking one thing with another. You have there a perpetual + greenness, which affords a comfortable shade against the scorching heat of + the sun, under the lofty palm and other trees, planted about the village, + with a sweet harmony of many birds of several sorts perching on them. The + walk on the low flat strand along the seaside is no less pleasant at + certain hours of the day; and from the platform of the fort is a most + delightful prospect of the ocean and the many rocks and small islands + about it.' + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0005" id="link2HCH0005"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XVI. — GOLD ABOUT AXIM, ESPECIALLY AT THE APATIM OR BUJIÁ + CONCESSION. + </h2> + <p> + Any one who has eyes to see can assure himself that Axim is the threshold + of the Gold-region. It abounds in diorite, a rock usually associated with + the best paying lodes. After heavy showers the naked eye can note spangles + of the precious metal in the street-roads. You can pan it out of the + wall-swish. The little stream-beds, bone-dry throughout the hot season, + roll down, during the rains, a quantity of dark arenaceous matter, like + that of Taranaki, New Zealand, and the 'black sand' of Australia, which + collects near the sea in stripes and patches. The people believe that + without it gold never occurs; and, if they collect the common yellow sand, + it is to extract from it the darker material. If the stuff does not answer + the magnet, it is probably schorl (tourmaline), hornblende, or dark + quartz. Strangers have often mistaken this emery-like rock for tin, which + occurs abundantly in the northern region. It is simply titaniferous iron, + iserine, pleonaste, ilmenite [Footnote: Or peroxide of iron, with 8 to 23 + per cent, of blue oxide of titanium.] and degraded itabirite, the iron and + quartz formation so called in the Brazil; and it is the same mineral which + I found so general throughout the gold and silver fields of neglected + Midian. It is found striating white sandstone about Tákwá and other places + in the interior. The surface-stone is decomposed by the oxide of iron, and + thus the precious dust with its ingrained gold is dissolved and separated + from it. At a greater depth the itabirite will be found solid; and the + occurrence of these oldest crystalline formations in large layers is a + hopeful sign. When Colonel Bolton was interested in the Gold Coast + diggings I advised him to send for a few tons of this metal, and to test + it as 'pay-dirt.' A barrelful was forwarded from the coast to the Akankon + Company: it was probably thrown away without experiment. + </p> + <p> + At Axim, as at Cape Coast Castle and other parts of the shore, women may + be seen gold-gathering even on the sea-sands. They rarely wash more than + 40 lbs., or a maximum of 50 lbs., per diem; and they strike work if they + do not make daily half a dollar (2<i>s</i>. 3<i>d</i>.) to two dollars. + They have nests of wooden platters for pans, the oldest and rudest of all + mechanical appliances. The largest, two feet in diameter, are used for + rough work in the usual way with a peculiar turn of the wrist. The + smallest are stained black inside, to show the colour of gold; and the + finer washings are carried home to be worked at leisure during the night. + This is peculiarly women's work, and some are well known to be better + panners than others; they refuse to use salt-water, because, they say, it + will not draw out the gold. + </p> + <p> + The whole land is impregnated with the precious metal. I find it richer in + sedimentary gold than California was in 1859. Immediately behind the main + square of Axim a bank of red clay leads eastward to a shallow depression, + the old valley of the Besáon, a swamp during the rains backed by rising + and forested ground to the east. On the inland versant a narrow native + shaft has been sunk for gold by Mr. Sam, now native agent under Mr. + Crocker. We pounded and panned the rock, which yielded about twopence per + 2 lbs., or one ounce to the ton. Observing its strike, we concluded that + it must extend through Mr. Irvine's property. Throughout the Gold Coast + auriferous reefs ran north-south, with easting rather than westing; the + deviation varies from 5ş west to 15ş-22ş east; and I have heard of, but + not seen, a strike of north-east (45ş) to south-west. This confirms the + 'meridional hypothesis' of Professor Sedgwick, who stated, 'As some of the + great physical agencies of the earth are meridional, these agencies may + probably, in a way we do not comprehend, have influenced the deposit of + metals on certain lines of bearing.' We may also observe that all the + great mineral chains of the old and new world are meridional rather than + longitudinal, striking from north-east to south-west. The geologist's + theory, combined with the knowledge that the noble metal is 'chiefly found + among palćozoic rocks of a quartzose type,' is practically valuable on the + Gold Coast. Every mound or hillock of red clay contains one or more + quartz-reefs, generally outcropping, but sometimes buried in the subsoils. + They can always be struck by a cross-cut trending east-west. The dip is + exceedingly irregular: some lodes are almost vertical, and others + quasi-horizontal. + </p> + <p> + We now take the main road leading to the Ancobra. After crossing the fetid + Besáon by its ricketty bridge of planks, we find on the right hand, facing + Messieurs Swanzy's, a fine bit of rising ground, which I shall call, after + its proprietor, 'Mount Irvine.' Over the southern slope runs a cleared + highway, which presently becomes a 'bush-path;' it is named the 'Dudley + Road,' after an energetic District-commissioner. This is the first Tákwá + line, whose length is described to be about fifty miles, or four days' + slow journey for laden porters. Mr. Gillett, who had covered twenty-six + (sixteen?) miles of it, describes the path as unbroken by swamps or + streams. Further north, according to the many native guides whom I + questioned, travellers pass two rivulets, and finally they are ferried + over the Abonsá, or Tákwá River. The second road follows closely the left + bank of the Ancobra: it is used by the Hausá soldiers, but only in the + heart of the Dries, and it must be impassable during the Rains. Dr. J. + Africanus B. Horton, who contributes to a characteristic paper, [Footnote: + The <i>African Times</i>, January 2, 1882. The paper is full of + inaccuracies; it begins by placing Tomento (Tumento) ninety-five miles + (for thirty) along the river-course from the mouth, and he makes + steam-launches 'take from two to four days (say one) to go up to it.'] has + never heard of the former when he says 'from Axim to Taquah (Tákwá) there + is no direct route,' and he justly deprecates the latter. But he cries up + the Bushua or Dixcove-Tákwá line, upon which he has large concessions. I + shall return to this subject in a future chapter. + </p> + <p> + On the north side of Mount Irvine is a second nullah, the Eswá, which + flows, like the Besáon, through the dense growth of bush covering the + eastern uplands. A few minutes' walk along the right bank leads to a + broadening of the bed, a swamp during the Rains and a field of cereals in + the Dries. Thence we plunge into the jungle, and after a couple of hundred + yards come upon signs of mining. In the Eswá bed, where the gulch is + choked by two mounds or hillocks, appear the usual 'women's washings,' + shallow pits like the Brazilian <i>catas</i>, whence the pay-dirt has been + extracted. On the right bank, subtending the bed, their husbands have sunk + the usual chimney-hole to scratch quartz from the bounding-wall of the + reef. These rude beginnings of shafts reach a depth of 82 feet, and + perhaps more. All are round, like the circular hut of the African savage; + similarly in Australia the first pits were circular or oval. They are + descended in sweep-fashion by means of foot-holes, and they are just large + enough for a man to sit in and use his diminutive tool. The quartz is sent + up to grass by a basket, and carried to the hut. After a preliminary + roasting, the old custom of Egypt, it is broken into little bits and made + over to the women, who grind it down upon the cankey-stone which serves to + make the daily bread. In some parts of Africa this is men's work, and it + is always done at night, with much jollity and carousing. + </p> + <p> + I named this place the 'Axim Reef.' It had been taken by Dr. J. Ogilby + Ross, formerly district medical officer, Axim, and now preparing to + explore the regions behind the Ancobra sources. He allowed, however, his + prospecting term to elapse, and thus it has been secured by Mr. Grant for + Mr. J. Irvine. It taught us three valuable lessons. + </p> + <p> + 1. Wherever <i>catas</i>, or 'women's washings,' are found, we can + profitably apply the hydraulic system of sluicing and fluming not by an + upper reservoir only, but also from below by a force-pump. Water is + procurable at all seasons by means of Norton's Abyssinian tubes, + [Footnote: The Egyptian campaigners seem to have thought of these valuable + articles somewhat late in the day. Yet two years ago I saw one working at + Alexandria.] and the brook-beds, dammed above and below, will form + perennial tanks. I am surprised that English miners on the Gold Coast have + not borrowed this valuable hint to wash from the people who have practised + it since time immemorial. Wherever we read, as on Mr. Wyatt's map, + 'Gold-dust found in all these streams;' 'Natives dive for gold in the + dry,' and 'Old gold-shafts all along this track,' we should think of + 'hydraulicking.' + </p> + <p> + 2. The natives, here and elsewhere, prospect for and work the bank-reefs + after the subtending gutter-bed has proved auriferous. There is, however, + no connection between the two, and the precious metal in the subsoil is + either swept down by the floods or washed out of the sides, as we shall + see on the Ancobra River. + </p> + <p> + 3. The negroes, who ignore pumps and steam-navvies, have neglected the + obvious measure of deep-digging in all the stream-beds, where much + detrital gold and even nuggets will assuredly be found. This should be + done either by shafting or by opening with 'steam-navvies' the whole + course of the channel during the 'Dries.' + </p> + <p> + Regaining the main road and passing towards the northern town, which is + separated from southern Axim by the fort and the grassy drill-ground, we + cast a look at a heap of rotting cases at last stored under a kind of + shed. Though labelled 'Akim' by the ungeographical manufacturer, they + contain a board-house, with glass windows and all complete, intended for + Axim, and eventually for the District-commissioner, Tákwá. But, with a + futility worthy of the futile African, certain authorities at + Head-quarters, after buying and landing the proposed bungalow, which + probably cost 500<i>l</i>., discovered that they could not afford the + expense of sending it to its destination. Consequently it was made over to + the white ants, and it has now duly qualified for fuel. + </p> + <p> + At the end of the northern town a noble bombax notes the last + resting-place of Europeans; and on it hangs a tale deserving a place in + 'Spiritualistic prints.' A certain M. Thiebaut, transport-manager to the + French Tákwá-Company, died at Axim, and was here buried in July 1881. Many + persons, including Mr. Grant's mother and wife, declare that they saw + during broad daylight his 'spirit' standing over his grave. And no wonder + if he walked; a decent 'ghost' would feel unhappy in such a 'yard,' then a + receptacle for native impurities. We represented the case to Mr. Alexander + Allan, who succeeded poor Captain O'Brien, and that active and energetic + 'new broom' at once took steps to abate the nuisance. The 'ghost' has not + been seen since its last home has been surrounded by a decent paling and + inscribed 'Ci-gît Thiebaut.' The same pious service was then done for one + of our countrymen, Mr. Crawford who died at Axim in the same year. + </p> + <p> + Leaving on the left a neat bungalow, the 'Effuenta House,' we see to + seaward of it the wooded knoll Bosomato. [Footnote: Abosom, Obosom or + Bosom, vulg. Bossum, are imaginary beings, guardians and so forth, + worshipped by the people and called 'fetishes' by Europeans. The word + 'fetish' is properly applied only to charms, philters, amulets, and all + that genus. See p. 78, <i>Wit and Wisdom from West Africa</i>, London, + Tinsleys, 1865.] Here a thatched hut shows where the late M. Bonnat + proposed to build a trading establishment, and to disembark his goods + despite rock and reef. A few yards further the road is crossed by the + Breviya ('where life ends'), another foul lagoon-stream, haunted by sirens + and crossed by a corduroy-bridge. It leads to a village of the same name, + which the Anglo-African calls 'Stink-fish Town,' [Footnote: As usual it is + a translation; the natives call the preserve 'bomom,' from 'bon,' to + stink.] alluding tersely and picturesquely to its sun-dried produce. + </p> + <p> + From this knot of huts and hovels we turn sharp to the east, or inland, + and presently enter the Apatim or Bujiá concession, which has been leased + for mining purposes to Mr. Irvine. There is a shorter road further north, + but it is barred, we were assured, by a bad swamp. Our path, fairly open, + ran up and down a succession of round-topped, abrupt-flanked hills, thrown + together without system, and showing no signs of a plateau. They are + parted by creek-valleys, gulches, and gullies, thick with tangled + vegetation and varying in depth from a few feet to two and even three + hundred. Many of them carry water even in the driest season. The country + is remarkably like that behind Cape Coast Castle, where the Home + Government, during the last Ashanti war (1873-74), proposed to lay down a + tramway. + </p> + <p> + The land is not heavily timbered, but there is wood sufficient for + everyday purposes. Its chief growth is the spiny bombax, whose timber is + hardly durable enough for permanent shafting. Here, however, and in all + the mines upon and near the seaboard, carpenter-work should be imported + from England; it will be at once cheaper and better. The country is + everywhere seamed with reefs and ridges of naked quartz, beginning near + the coast and striking in the right direction. There must be many more + underground, and all will be bared by 'washing' the country. Mr. R. B. N. + Walker, whose energy and enterprise obtained this, as well as other + concessions, tells me that during a second visit one of his company + 'picked up two or three small pieces of quartz showing "free gold" among + the refuse around the native pits.' + </p> + <p> + We progressed slowly enough, as we delayed to botanise, to net + butterflies, [Footnote: Our large collection all came to grief, because we + had neglected to carry camphor. The hint may be useful to those who follow + us.] and to shoot for specimens. The path crossed and recrossed the Impima + rivulet, which in parts was dammed and double-dammed; its bed of + quartz-gravel and red ironstone again suggested deep digging. After a two + hours' stroll we traversed the snaking course by a rude bridge, and + presently came to the half-way plantation, Impatási: it is faced by a + dwarf clearing, and we noted a fine clump of bamboo-cane. The next village + was Edu-Kru, marked upon the maps 'Edu.' We then passed over the dry bed + of the Bujiá wady, which looked as 'fit' as the Impima; and, at about + twenty-five yards north of the bed we breasted the rough ascent of the + Apatim Hill. + </p> + <p> + Here we turned to the right and found Mr. Grant's trial-shaft. It had been + sunk amongst a number of round holes dug by the native miner, and it + appeared to us that they had been working the southern butt-end of the + eastern reef. He had preferred it to another pit sunk a little distance + from the centre by a man named Jones, whose venture yielded the poorest + results. Cameron drew my attention to the necessity of 'hydraulicking' + this hill-side; and from three pounds of its yellow clay, gathered at + random, we washed about fourpence worth of gold-dust, upwards of 8<i>l</i>. + a ton. Other specimens assayed 1 oz. 13 dwts. and 13 grains. The quartz at + a little lower than a fathom had yielded poorly, [Footnote: Messieurs + Johnson and Matthey found only 0.650 oz. gold and 0.225 silver.] but + better results were expected from a deeper horizon. + </p> + <p> + A few minutes of uphill-walk led us to the little Apatim village, our + objective. We had spent three hours and a half over a distance which would + be easily covered in two. The march may be about two and a half miles + (direct geographical) from Axim, and five along the native path. During + the night my companion took a good observation of Castor and Pollux, and + with the aid of his chronometer laid down the position of the Apatim + village at N. lat. 4ş 55' and W. long. (G.) 2ş 14' 2". Consequently the + nearest point from Central Axim is 2,200 yards, and 200 from the shore. + The north-western angle runs clean across the Ancobra River. [Footnote: + Mr. Walker wrote to me, 'I am inclined to believe that the concession will + be found to extend to the River Ankobra on the west and north-west sides. + But I do not feel certain that this would be of any material advantage, + the distance from Axim by land being so short, and the road between that + port and the property being capable of improvement, so as to render + transport a matter of small expense.'] The concession measures 4,000 + square yards, the centre being an old native shaft a little north of the + Bujiá bed. The quadrangle lies between N. lat. 4ş 53' 56" and 4ş 55' 56", + and W. long. (G.) 2ş 12' 48" and 2ş 14' 48". The lease costs 12<i>l</i>. + per annum, paid quarterly, and 120<i>l</i>. when the works shall open. Its + lessor had forbidden his fraudulent people to prospect or to mine, + because, as usual, they systematically robbed him of his royalty. This + universal practice has made the kings and chiefs throughout the country + ready and even anxious to sell mining-lands for small sums which will be + paid honestly and regularly. They are also fully alive to the prospective + advantages of European staffs settling amongst them. Like them we shall + find the systematic dishonesty and roguery of the natives a considerable + drawback; the fellows know good stone at sight and can easily secrete it. + The cure for this evil will be the importation of labour, especially of + Chinese labourers. + </p> + <p> + At Apatim, the name of the district as well as the village, we were + civilly received by the chief, Kwábina Sensensé. He is also lessor of the + unfortunate Akankon concession, and his right to sell or to let either of + them has been seriously disputed. This practice, again, may lead, unless + checked, to serious difficulties. When the local government shall have + established a regular department and a staff of Gold-commissioners, every + owner should be compelled legally to prove his title to the land. West + Africans know nothing of yards and fathoms; they have hardly any words to + express north or south. [Footnote: The four points are taken from the + buried body, the feet being to the east and the head lying west.] + Consequently they will sell, either wittingly or in their ignorance of + dimension and direction, the same ground, or parts of it, to two or three + purchasers. Indeed, they would like nothing better, and consequently + 'jumpers' must be expected. + </p> + <p> + Sensensé is a dark man, apparently on the wrong side of fifty. His grizzly + beard, grown comparatively long, his closely-trimmed mustachios, and his + head-cloth, worn like a turban, made me take him at first sight for a + Moslem. He has a cunning eye, which does not belie his reputation. His fad + is to take money and to do no work for it; he now wants us to pay for the + clearing of an uncleared path. The villagers fear him on account of + certain fetish-practices which, in plain English, mean poison; and he + keeps up their awe by everywhere displaying the outward signs of magic and + sorcery. A man with this gift can rise at night when all sleep; cast off + his body like a snake's slough; become a <i>loup-garou</i>; shoot flames + from eyes and ears, nose, mouth, and arm-pits; walk with his head on the + ground and kill man either by drinking his blood or by catching his <i>kra</i> + (<i>umbra</i>), which he boils and devours. Here the sign of 'fetish' is + mostly the <i>koro</i>, or pot full of rubbish. At Axim and Akankon we + shall find our chief a mighty bore, each visit being equivalent to a + bottle of gin. + </p> + <p> + After a restful sleep in the cool and pleasant air of Apatim, we proceeded + to visit the valley east of the settlement, despite Sensensé's warning + that the ground was 'fetish.' He had made the same objection to M. Bonnat, + his evident object being to keep the rich placer for private use or for + further sale. There are evil reports about the origin of the Frenchman's + fatal illness after disregarding this and similar warnings. The deep and + steep-banked depression runs north-south, and is apparently the head of + the Bujiá stream. The vegetation, especially near the water, which flows + some 300 feet below the village, was exceedingly dense and tangled, except + where the ground had been cleared for bananas, maize, or ground-nuts. The + bottom, especially at the sharp corners, gave the idea of exceeding + richness; and there were many old works apparently deserted. The + 'fetish-pot' stood everywhere, filled with oil, water, and palm-wine, + leaves, cowries, eggs, and all manner of filth. This stuff, stirred by the + <i>komfo</i> diviner, answers questions and enables man to soothsay. It + also corresponds with the <i>obeah</i> of the West Indies, the <i>ubio</i> + of the Efik race, a charm put into the ground to hurt or kill. How hot the + rich hole was! What a perspiration and what a thirst came out of the + climb! + </p> + <p> + In the evening we walked about half a mile to the south-west of the + village, and prospected the central shaft, whence the measurements were + made. Here it is sunk in a western reef, palpably running parallel with + the eastern, which we first inspected. And this visit gave us a fair idea + of the property. It consists of at least three ridges of clay running from + north to south, and each containing one or more meridional walls of + quartz. Some of the latter may turn out to be 'master lodes.' + </p> + <p> + I regret that this fine Apatim concession was not thrown into the market + before the so-called 'Izrah.' The distance from Axim to the mining-ground + is so small that provisions and machinery could be transported for a + trifle. The village lies 220 feet above sea-level; and a hillock in its + rear, perhaps 80 feet higher, commands a noble view, showing Axim Bay: it + could be used as a signal-station. The rise is a fine, healthy position + for the dwellings to be occupied by the European staff, and in such air + white men could work for years. + </p> + <p> + Moreover, the short distance from the shore offers peculiar advantages for + 'hydraulicking.' Flumes and sluices could carry the golden subsoil to the + sea and discharge it into a series of tanks and cisterns, which would be + cradled for 'pay-dirt.' Finally, it will be easy to baffle the plundering + negro workman by sending all stone containing free gold to be worked in + England, where superior appliances extract more than enough to pay + transport-costs. Indeed, it is a question with me whether, despite great + expenses, reduction at home even of inland produce will not be found + preferable. [Footnote: Mr. C. H. Creswick, of the Gold Coast Mining + Company, kindly drew up for me the following table of expenses from + Abontiyakon (his diggings) to England, and the costs of reducing a ton of + ore. + </p> + <p> + <i>l s. d.</i> 3 15 0 canoe-transport to the Abonsá River. 1 10 0 Abonsá + to Axim by a boat of thirteen hands carrying five tons 0 3 6 landing at + Axim and shipping on board steamer. 1 15 0 freight and landing charges at + Liverpool. 0 15 0 carriage to reduction-works. 2 12 6 costs of reduction. + ————— 8 11 0 which practically would rise to + 9<i>l</i>. or 10<i>l</i>. + </p> + <p> + For local reduction Mr. Creswick calculates the outlay at 2<i>l</i>. per + ton, including interest on prime cost of machinery, allowance for wear and + tear, and labour-pay.] This remark applies only to rich ore; the poorer + can be worked upon the spot. + </p> + <p> + We returned to Axim with the highest opinion of 'Apatim,' and I rejoiced + to hear that the mine will be opened without delay. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0006" id="link2HCH0006"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XVII. — THE RETURN—VISIT TO KING BLAY; ATÁBO AND BÉIN. + </h2> + <p> + I spare my readers the slightest description of the troubles that attended + our departure from Axim on January 31. Briefly, we began loading at dawn + and the loads were not headed before 10 A.M. + </p> + <p> + The black caravan, or rather herd, was mustered by its guide and manager, + the energetic W. M. Grant. His <i>personnel</i> consisted of seven Kruboys + from Cape Palmas and forty-three Axim carriers, who now demand eight and + sixpence for a trip which two years ago cost a dollar. They stray about + the country like goats, often straggling over four miles. As bearers they + are the worst I know, and the Gold Coast hammock is intended only for + beach-travelling. The men are never sized, and they scorn to keep step, + whilst the cross-pieces at either end of the pole rest upon the head and + are ever slipping off it. Hence the jolting, stumbling movement and the + sensation of feeling every play of the porters' muscles, which make the + march one long displeasure. Yet the alternative, walking, means fever for + a new comer. On return we cut long bamboos and palm-fronds and made the + Krumen practise carrying, Hindu-fashion, upon the shoulder. + </p> + <p> + The rest of the moving multitude was composed of the servantry and the + camp-followers. One <i>bouche inutile</i> bore a flag, a second carried a + gun, and so forth, the only principle being to work as little as possible + and to plunder all things plunderable. There were exceptions. Joe (Kwasi + Bedeh) of Dixcove, Cameron's old servant, who boasts of being a pagan, and + who speaks English, French, and Dutch, a handy and intelligent young + fellow, who can cook, sew, carpenter, or lead a caravan—in fact, can + serve as factotum—and his accounts, marvellous to recount, are + honestly kept. I should want no better servant in these coast-countries + and in exploring the far interior. The cook, 'Mister Dawson,' of Axim, is + a sturdy senior of missionary presence: having been long employed in that + line, he wears a white tie on Sundays, and I shrewdly suspect him of + preaching. A hard worker, beginning early and ending late, he is an + excellent stuffer of birds and beasts, and the good condition of our + collection is owing entirely to him. His son, Kwasi Yau (Sunday Joe), is a + sharp 'boy' in the Anglo-Indian sense. The carpenter, our model idler, who + won't work and can't work, receives 3<i>l</i>. per mens., when $8 should + be the utmost; we cleared him out on return to Axim. Meanwhile he saunters + about under an umbrella, and is always missing when wanted for work. + </p> + <p> + Our companions and body-guards are Bianco and Nero, both bought by Cameron + at L'pool for a suspiciously trifling sum. The former is a small + smooth-haired terrier, who dearly loves to bark and bite, and who shows + evident signs of early training in the cab-line. A dog with all the + manners of a doggess, he eventually found a happy home in the fort, Axim. + The second, a bastard Newfoundland with a dash of the bloodhound, and just + emerging from puppyhood, soon told us the reason why he was sold for a + song. That animal was a born murderer; he could not sight a sheep, a goat, + or a bullock without the strongest desire to pull it down; therefore he + had been sold into slavery, African and old-English fashion, instead of + being hanged. He had fine qualities—obedience, fidelity, affection, + a grand voice, and a ferocious presence. All these good gifts, however, + were marred by an over-development of destructiveness. He survived his + journeys by passing many of his hours in the water, and he was at last + 'dashed' to Dr. Roulston, of Tákwá. + </p> + <p> + We took once more the northern road to Brévia, or 'Stink-fish Town,' and + crossed its tongue of red clay bounded by the bed of the Anjueri stream. + Here again appeared a large block of greenstone deeply grooved by the + grinder. Thence we debouched upon the surf-lashed shore, tripped over by + the sandpiper and the curlew and roped by the bright-flowered convolvulus. + Streaks of the auriferous black sand became more frequent and promising as + we advanced. + </p> + <p> + We ran close to Akromasi, or One-tree Point, upon whose flat dorsum linger + the bush-grown ruins of a fort. It was named Elisa Cartago by its + founders, the Portuguese, who were everywhere haunted by memories of the + classics. Bowdich [Footnote: Folio, p. 271.] is eminently in error when he + places the remains 'at the extreme navigable point of the river,' and + opines that the work was built by Governor Ringhaven (Ruyghaver), buried + at Elmina in 1700. He was misinformed by Colonel Starrenberg, a Dutch + officer who canoed three days up the Bosom Prah River, a fact probably + unknown to Commodore Commerell. Bosman [Footnote: Letter I. 1737.] shows + 'Elisa Cartago op den Berg Ancober,' crowning the head of Akromasi Point, + with a road leading up to the palisades which protect the trade-houses. + Lieutenant Jeekel, [Footnote: Map of the former Dutch possessions on the + Gold Coast (districts of Apollonia, Azim, Dixcove, Sekondi, Chama, and + El-Mina), by Lieut. C. A. Jeekel, Royal Dutch Navy. Lithographed at the + Topographical Depôt of the War Office, Major C. W. Wilson, R.R., Director, + 1873. It extends only from the Ebumesu to the Sweet River (Elmina) and up + the Ancobra valley; and it is best known for the seaboard.] an excellent + authority, also places it at the river-mouth. According to some it was + taken in early days by the French, who still hold it. Captain Ellis has + transferred to this site the story of Fort Eguira, an inland, or rather + up-stream, work, destroyed, as Dr. Reynhaut and others tell us, in an + 'elendige manier' (a piteous way). + </p> + <p> + The gallant Mynheer commanding fought the natives till his men were shot + down, after using 'rock-gold' (nuggets) for bullets. He rolled sundry + powder-barrels under the palaver-hall, and stationed there a boy with a + match to be applied when he stamped on the floor. He then flung open the + gates, hung out a flag of trace, and invited the bloodthirsty savages, who + were bent on killing him by torture, to take the hoard of gold for which + the attack was made. When all crowded the great room he reproached them + with their greed of gain, gave the sign, and blew them and himself into + eternity. I am told by a good authority that the natives, whose memories + are tenacious on some points, will not show to strangers the ruins which + cost their forefathers so dear. + </p> + <p> + The last village on the sands is Kukakun, where the wreck of a schooner + saddens the scene. Within a few hundred yards of Akromasi we bent abruptly + eastward and exchanged the sands for the usual stiff soil of red clay. The + gut is formed by the point-bluff and a southern block, and the surface is + covered with dense second-growth—pandanus, the false sugar-cane, + ferns large and small, and the sloth-tree, the Brazilian <i>ubá</i> or + Preguiça, with tall, thin white trunk and hanging palmated leaves. The + African palm-birds (orioles of the <i>Merulidć</i> family), whose two + colours, red (<i>ntiblii</i>) and golden yellow (<i>enadsi</i>), + apparently divide them into as many fighting factions, give a touch, a + bright colour to the dulness, and chatter over their pensile homes, which + strangers would mistake for cocoa-nuts. + </p> + <p> + Severely hustled and horribly shaken up, we ran down the little valley of + the Avin streamlet. It comes from afar, heading, they say, in Abasakasu, a + region where gold abounds. In three-quarters of an hour we had cleared the + four short miles which separate Axim from the Ancobra ferry. This is the + line of a future tramway, which will transport goods from the port to the + river; at present they must be shipped in bar-boats, which cost much and + carry little. The ground divides itself into three sections—the red + clay north of Axim; the sands, whose green-grown upper levels are fitted + to support iron-pot sleepers; and the Avin valley, which debouches upon + the left bank of the Ancobra. The first and the last divisions are safe + for creosoted wood. My friend Mr. Russell Shaw would, I doubt not, take + the contract for 4,000<i>l</i>., and a macadamised cart-road could be made + for 500<i>l</i>. + </p> + <p> + This would be the beginning of a much-wanted change. At present the prices + of transport are appalling. The French mines pay from 2<i>l</i>. to 2<i>l</i>. + 10<i>s</i>. per ton from England to Axim; from Axim to Tákwá, forty miles + by river and thirty by land, costs them 600 francs (24<i>l</i>.) per ton. + Moreover, native hands are not always forthcoming. + </p> + <p> + The Ancobra River, the main artery and waterway of this region, must not + be written after the Jonesian or modern mode, 'Ankobra' and 'Ankober,' nor + with Bosman 'Rio Cobre' (River of Copper). It has evidently no connection + with Abyssinian Ankober. To the native name, 'Anku' or 'Manku,' the + Portuguese added Cobra, expressing its snaky course. Bowdich, followed by + many moderns, calls it Seënna, for Sánmá or Sánumá, meaning 'unless a gale + (of wind).' The legend is that a savage and murderous old king of the + Apollonians, whose capital was Atábo, built a look-out upon a tall + cocoanut-tree, and declared that nothing but a storm could lay it low. + Sánmá is still the name of the settlement on the right bank near the + rivermouth. + </p> + <p> + We rested at Kumprasi, a few huts close to the <i>embouchure</i> of the + iron-bedded Avin streamlet and backwater. The little zinc-roofed hut, + called by courtesy a store, belonging to Messieurs Swanzy, was closed. + Katubwé, the northern hill on the left bank, had been bought, together + with Akromasi Point and the Avin valley, by the late M. Bonnat, who + cleared it and began shafting it for gold in the usual routine way. During + the last six months it has been overgrown with dense vegetation. Mr. + Walker believes, not unreasonably, that this lode is connected with the + Apatim or Bujiá reefs. + </p> + <p> + Ferrying across, we could note the wild features of the Ancobra's mouth. + The bar, which in smooth weather allows passage to a load of five tons, + not unfrequently breaks at an offing of four miles, and breaks obliquely. + The gape is garnished on either side by little black stumps of rocks, and + the general effect is very unpleasant. A fine school of sharks fattens on + the fish inside the bar. At this season the entrance narrows to a few + feet, the effect of a huge sandspit on the right lip, and carries only six + feet of water. During the rains it will rise eleven feet at Sánmá, and at + Tumento twenty-four feet in a day, falling with the same dangerous + rapidity. We shall see more of the Ancobra, which here separates two + districts. Between it and Cape Threepoints the land is called Avaláwé; and + the westward region, extending to Cape Apollonia, is named Amrehía, the + Amregia of Jeekel and Dahse, meaning, 'where people meet.' + </p> + <p> + We halted for breakfast at Sánmá, where Messieurs Swanzy have another + storehouse, and where the French Company is building one for itself with + characteristic slowness. The settlement is ill-famed for the Chigo or + jigger (<i>Pulex penetrans</i>), unknown in my day upon the West African + coast. It has killed men by causing gangrenous sores. From 'Tabon,' + [Footnote: 'Tabon' is evidently corrupted from the popular greeting ''Sta + bom?' (Are you well? How d'e do?)] the Brazil, it crept over to Săo Paulo + de Loanda, and thence it spread far and wide up and down coast, and deep + into the interior. This fact suggests that there may be truth in the + theory which makes the common flea of India an immigrant from Europe. + </p> + <p> + At 1 P.M. we resumed our way along the beach, under sunshine tempered by + the 'smokes.' These mists, however, are now clearing away for the + tornado-season, and 'insolation' will become more decided. We ran by + sundry little bush-villages: their names will be found in my companion's + careful route-survey. I shall notice only those which showed something + notable. + </p> + <p> + There is sameness in the prospect, which, however, does not wholly lack + interest. Soon after dawn the village urchins begin disporting themselves + among the breakers and billows upon broken bits of boat, while their + fathers throw the cast-net nearer shore. The brown-black pigs and piglets + root up the wet sand for shell-fish; and, higher up, the small piebald + cattle loiter in the sun or shade. From afar the negro-groups are not + unpicturesque in their bright red and brimstone yellow sheets, worn like + Roman togas. A nearer view displays bridgeless, patulous noses, suggesting + a figure of [Symbol: Figure-8 on its side.]; cheek-bones like molehills, + and lips splayed out in the manner of speaking-trumpets: often, indeed, + the face is a mere attachment to the devouring-apparatus. Throughout the + day sexes and ages keep apart. The nude boys perch upon stones or worn-out + canoes. Their elders affect the shade, men on one side of the village and + women on the other. All the settlements are backed by cocoa-trees in lines + and clumps. Those who view Africa biliously compare them with + hearse-plumes; I find in them a peculiar individuality and likeness to + humankind. There is the chubby babe, six feet high; the fast-growing + 'hobbedehoy;' the adult, bending away from you like a man, or, woman-like, + inclining towards you; there is the bald, shrunken senior; and, lastly, + appears death, lean and cold and dry. + </p> + <p> + Between sea and settlement stand the canoes, flat-bottomed and tip-tilted + like Turkish slippers; where the land is low and floods are high, each is + mounted upon four posts. Fronting and outside the village stands a + wall-less roof of flat matting, the palaver-house. The settlement is + surrounded by a palisade of fronds stripped from the bamboo-palm and + strengthened by posts; the latter put forth green shoots as soon as stuck + in the ground, and recall memories of Robinson Crusoe. The general + entrance has a threshold two to two and a half feet high. The tenements + are simple as birds' nests, primitive as the Highlander's mud-cabin and + shieling of wattle and heather. The outer walls are of bamboo-palm fronds, + the partitions are of bamboo-palm matting, and the roofs are of + bamboo-palm thatch. Each place has its <i>osafahin</i>, or headman, and + each headman has his guest-house, built of better material, swish or + adobe. + </p> + <p> + The only approach to grandeur are the long surges and white combers of the + mournful and misty Atlantic. They roll like the waving prairie-land, curl + their huge heads, and dash down in a fury of foam. 'On the top of a billow + we ride,' with a witness. Here and there black dots peer through the surf, + and to touch them is death. This foul shore presents a formidable barrier + to landing: there absolutely is no safe place between Apollonia and the + Ancobra. European employés avoid tempting the breakers; they disembark and + re-embark for home, and that is all. Mr. Grant assures us that there is no + risk; Mr. Grillett, who has worked the coast since 1875, says the + contrary; no man knows it better or fears it more. Some places are worse + than others; for instance, Inenyápoli is exceptionally dangerous. The sea + is shallow, and ships, requiring eight fathoms, must, to be safe, anchor + four miles out. The coast-soundings in the Admiralty charts are positively + unsafe, and will remain so until revised. On the other hand, the reefs and + rocks of Axim Bay have wholly disappeared, with some exceptions seen off + Kikam and Esyáma. + </p> + <p> + Looking inland we find the shore mostly subtended by a <i>marigot</i>, or + salt-water lagoon, a miniature of those regular rivers which made the + Slave Coast what it was. And along the sea we can detect its presence by + the trickling of little rills guttering and furrowing the sandy surface. + The formation of these characteristic African features, which either run + parallel with or are disposed at various angles to the coast, is + remarkably simple. There is no reason to assume with Lieutenant R. C. Hart + that they result from secular upheaval. [Footnote: Page 186, <i>Gold Coast + Blue Book</i>. London, 1881]. The 'powerful artillery with which the ocean + assails the bulwarks of the land' here heaps up a narrow strip of high + sand-bank; and the tails of the smaller streams are powerless to break + through it, except when swollen by the rains. They maintain their level by + receiving fresh water at the head and by percolation through the beach, + while most of them are connected with the sea. + </p> + <p> + We halted for rest at the Esyáma village; its landmarks are the ronnier, + the glorious palmyra (<i>Borassus flabelliformis</i>), here called + 'women's cocoa-tree.' The village looked peculiarly neat with its + straight, sandy street-roads, a quarter of a mile long; and the tenements + generally are better than those of Axim. We noticed the usual feature, a + long thatched barn of yellow clay—school-cum-chapel. The people are + fond of planting before their doors the <i>felfa</i>, croton or physicnut + (<i>Jatropha curcas</i>), whose oil so long lighted Lisbon. It is a tree + of many uses. Boys suck the honey of the flower-stalk; and adults drink or + otherwise use, as corrective of bile, an infusion of the leaves and the + under bark. They could not give me the receipt for the valuable + preparation of the green apple, well known to the Fantis of Accra. + </p> + <p> + After returning to Axim we heard of rich diggings two hours' march inland, + or north with easting from Esyáma. They are called 'Yirima,' or + 'Choke-full'—that is, of gold. The site is occupied by King Blay's + family, and the place is described as containing three or four reefs which + have all been more or less worked by the natives. After we left the coast + Yirima was visited by Mr. Grant, who reported it as exceptionally + promising. + </p> + <p> + About sunset we hit the Ebumesu, or 'Winding Water.' The people declare + that it had a single mouth till the earthquakes of July 1862, which shook + down Accra, raised a divide, and made a double <i>embouchure</i>. The + eastern fork, known as the Páná, is the drain of a large and branchy + lagoon, brackish water, bitumen-coloured or brassy-yellow, with poisonous + vegetation, and bounded by mangroves abounding in tannin. These + water-forests grow differently from the red and white rhizophores of + Eastern Africa. We shall again be ferried over the upper part of the + western mouth. Both have bad bars, especially the latter. I therefore can + by no means agree with Mr. Walker's report:—'The western outlet of + the Ebumesu, near the village of Eku Enu, or Ekwanu, is quite practicable + for ordinary surf-boats during the dry season—say half the year—and + even in the middle of June I found the bar smooth and safe. Having for + thirty years worked some of the worst bars and beaches' (the Gaboon? or + the Sherbro?) 'along some hundreds of miles of the West Coast, I am able + to state that the Ebumesu bar might be safely utilised for landing goods + and machinery; but during the heavy surf of the rainy season goods could + always be disembarked at Axim, and, if necessary, carried along the beach + to the mouth of the Ebumesu, and thence by boat to the tramway from that + river to the mine.' This last statement is quite correct. + </p> + <p> + All the Aximites described the Ebumesu bars as practically impassable. + Cameron and I agreed that the only way of entering them is by running the + boat ashore, unloading her, and warping her round the point, as we shall + afterwards do at Prince's. But the best line to the Izrah concession has + not yet been discovered. I strongly impressed the necessity of careful + search upon Mr. A. A. Robertson, the traffic-manager of the Company. For + the present I hold the surf along shore and the Ebumesu bar to be equally + dangerous. The land-tongue between the two streams is the favourite haunt + of mosquitoes and sand-flies, and it produces nothing save mud and + mangroves, miasma and malaria. Yet here in 1873-74 loyal and stout-hearted + King Blay defended himself against the whole Apollonian coast, which + actively sympathised with the Ashantis. [Footnote: Captain Brackenbury, + vol. ii, p. 29, <i>The Ashanti War</i>, &c., gives an account of King + Blay fighting the Ashantis on the Ebumesu.] He was at last relieved by the + Wásás (Wassaws) coming to his side; and now he has little to fear. He can + put some 5,000 musketeers into the field; and, during the late Ashanti + scare, he offered to aid us with 7,000, if we could supply the extras with + arms and ammunition. + </p> + <p> + When the 'Queen of Shades' arose, and it became too dark to see the world, + we halted at the Sensyéré village, and found good sleeping-quarters in the + guest-house of the headman, Bato. Fortunately we had brought mattresses. + The standing four-poster of the country offers only cross-planks covered + with the thinnest matting. As the ancient joke of many a lugubrious + African traveller says, it combines bed and board. Next morning, despite + the chilly damp and the 'old-woman-cannot-see,' as the Scotch mist is here + called, our men were ready within reasonable limits. After two hours' + hammock we found ourselves at Atábo, capital of eastern Apollonia, about + to pay our promised return-visit to good King Blay. It is useless to + describe the settlement, which in no way differs from those passed on the + path. The country-people related its origin as follows:—A Fanti man + from the country between Secondee (Sekondi), or Fort Orange, and Shamah + (Chamah), at the mouth of the Bosom Prah, when driven out by war, first + founded 'Kabeku,' near the present place of that name. His sons built + Béin, or Behin, [Footnote: The aspirate is hardly audible. Captain + Brackenbury, generally so careful, manages to confound Béin and Benin.] + meaning a 'strong man,' and Atábo, in Fanti <i>atába</i>, the name of a + tree with a reddish-yellow fruit. The latter was paramount till late + years, when turbulent and unruly Béin was allowed to set up for herself an + independent king; and the sooner things return to the <i>status quo ante</i> + the better for peace. + </p> + <p> + King Blay's guest-house of whitewashed swish is a model of its kind. You + pass through a large compound, which contains the outhouses, into a broad, + deep verandah, generally facing away from the sea. It opens upon a central + room adorned with German prints of Scriptural subjects—Mariahilf, + for instance, all gaudy colour and gilt spangles. On each side of this + piece are sleeping-rooms. The furniture of the five is exceedingly simple—a + standing bedstead, a table, and a few wooden chairs. But Ahin Blay is a + civilised man who strews his floors with matting, and has osier <i>fauteuils</i> + from Madeira. These quarters are quite wholesome and comfortable enough + for temporary use. They would be greatly improved by mounting on pillars + or piles; and they might serve for all seasons save the rainy. + </p> + <p> + Mr. Graham, who dispenses elementary knowledge to the missionary pupils, + came to us at once, and kindly offered his aid as 'mouf.' These useful + men, who serve as go-betweens and interpreters, are called 'scholars' by + the people, and are charged with making profit out of whites and blacks. + In the afternoon Mr. Graham brought me two neolithic stone-implements. We + then set out for the 'palace,' a large congeries of houses and huts, + guided by a mighty braying of horns and beating of drums, and by Union + Jacks, with the most grotesque adjuncts of men and beasts, planted in the + clean and sandy street-road. King Blay received us in his palaver-hall, + and his costume now savoured not of Europe, but of 'fetish.' He had been + 'making customs,' or worshipping after country-fashion, and would not keep + us waiting while he changed dress. The cap was a kind of tall hood, + adorned with circles of cowries and two horns of the little bush-antelope; + the robe was Moorish, long and large-sleeved, and both were charged with + rolls of red, white, and blue stuff, supposed to contain grígrís, or + talismans. The Ashanti medal, however, was still there; indeed, he wore it + round his neck even on the march, when his toilette was reduced to a + waist-cloth and a billycock. After discussing palm-wine in preference to + trade-gin, we persuaded King Blay, despite all his opposition, that 'time + is gold,' and that with strange and indelicate haste we <i>must</i> set + out early on the morrow for the Izrah mine. His main difficulty was about + clearing the path; he had issued strong orders upon the subject, but + African kings often command and no one cares to obey. The monarchy is + essentially limited, and the lieges allow no stretch of power, unless the + ruling arm be exceptionally long and strong. + </p> + <p> + Hearing that the gold-hilted official swords of the King of Béin were for + sale, and wishing to inspect the place, we set off at 3.30 P.M. to cover + the 4,769 yards measured along the sands by Mr. Graham. Reaching our + destination, eighteen miles distant from Axim, we were carried up the long + straight street-road which leads to the old English fort. It is the normal + building, a house on bastions, both well and solidly made of stone and + lime. Amongst the materials I found a fine yellow sandstone-grit and a + nummulite so weathered that the shells stood out in strong relief. Both + were new to us on this trap-coast, and no one could say where they were + quarried; many thought they must have come from Europe, others that they + are brought from inland. The masonry of the sea-front was pitted with + seven large wounds, dealt by as many shells when we broke down our own + work. Such was the consequence of sympathising with the Ashantis in 1873, + when Axim also was bombarded. + </p> + <p> + What changes these factory-forts have seen, beginning with the days of the + jolly old Hollanders, who, in doublets and trunk-hose, held high state, + commanding large garrisons and ruling the rulers of the land. What + banquets, what carousals, with <i>sopies</i> of the best schiedam, and + long clay-pipes stuffed with the finest tobacco, when an exceptional haul + of gold-dust or captives had come to hand! But Time got the better of + them; the abolition of the export slave-trade cut the ground from under + their feet; diminished profits made economy necessary, and the forts were + allowed to become the shadows of their former selves. Then came the + cession to England, when all appeared running on the road to ruin. Now, + however, things are again changed, and 'Resurgam' may be written upon + these scenes of decay. The Mines will once more make the fortune of the + Gold Coast, and the old buildings will become useful as hospitals, and + store-houses, and barracoons for coolie emigrants. + </p> + <p> + The Béin fort has been repaired and whitewashed inside by the lessees, + Messieurs Swanzy, whose agent, Mr. Carr, we found here in possession. + Unlike Axim, it still preserves intact the outer work with its dwarf + belfry over the strong doorway. But the cistern in the middle of this + slave-court must make the cleanly old Netherlanders turn in their tombs. + </p> + <p> + Opposite the fort is the normal school-room, occasionally served by Mr. + Graham, of Atábo; Béin has a tide-waiter, but no pedagogue. Beyond it + rises the large and uneven swish-house of the 'King,' who has lately been + summonsed, as a defaulting debtor, to Cape Coast Castle: the single black + policeman who served the writ evidently looked upon us as his colleagues. + The people eyed us with no friendly glances; they were 'making custom' for + the ruler's return. The vague phrase denoted, in this case, a frantic + battering of drums, big and little; a squeaking of scrannel pipes; a + feminine 'break-down' of the most <i>effrénée</i> description, and a + general libation to the Bacchus of Blackland. A debauched and drunken + Ashanti, who executed for our benefit a decapitation-dance, evidently + wishing that we had been its objects, thanked us ironically for a + sixpence. We met some difficulty in seeing the swords, which were <i>not</i> + to be sold. They were the usual rusty and decayed fish-slicers; Cameron, + however, was kind enough to sketch them for me, and they will appear in my + coming book. + </p> + <p> + Most of the adult males had travelled inland to the Tákwá or French mines, + where the Apollonians bear the highest reputation. Whole gangs flock to + the diggings, bringing their own provisions and implements. Thus they have + begun working on tribute and contracting for piece-work. [Footnote: This + information was given to me by M. Plisson, traffic-manager to the + Company.] This is a favourable phase of the labour-question. At the same + time it is clear that the labourer can easily keep the richest specimens + for himself and palm off the worst stuff upon the stranger. + </p> + <p> + Here we are next door to the Ivory Coast, and elephants, they say, are + still to be found within two days north of Béin. The hunters cross a broad + stream (the Tando?) and a dry swamp; they then enter an uninhabited + forest; and, after a couple of marches, they reach the animals' haunts. + Small tusks are at times brought in, but no Europeans, so far as I know, + ever killed a tusker in these wilds. My informants heard that a route from + Béin leads to Gyáman, and that it may be travelled without difficulty. + </p> + <p> + The following note, by Mr. Edward L. McCarthy, describes an excursion from + Béin to the unvisited Essuá-tí, made by him in August 1881:— + </p> + <p> + 'Accompanied by Prince John Coffee, heir to King Blay, three other chiefs, + their servants, and my own party of Krumen, we left the town of Béin, + Apollonia, to go up to the village in the bush called Essuá-tí. Half a + mile from the town we found canoes awaiting us, and in these we were poled + along for over half an hour over what in the dry season is a native path, + but now a narrow channel of water winding about in a dense jungle of + reeds. Here and there we came upon small hillocks covered with trees, in + which numerous monkeys sported about. Emerging from these reeds, one broad + sheet of water presented itself to the eye, encircled by a low shore + fringed with canes, bush, and palm-trees, and at its western extremity a + range of hills rose out of the background. The lagoon receives several + small streams, and empties itself into the sea by the Ebumesu river, its + mouth being about half-way between Béin and the Ancobra. According to the + natives the river used to be navigable to its mouth, but of late years has + become overgrown with reeds. A few years back they set to work to cut a + channel through them, but getting tired of the work gave it up. The length + of the lagoon appears to be about three to four miles, and about one to + one and a half in breadth. Its major axis runs parallel to the coastline, + or nearly due east and west. Twenty minutes' paddling brought us round the + point of a small headland, where we came in sight of a pretty lake-village + built upon piles, at some little distance from the shore, the whole + forming a most picturesque and animated scene. From house to house canoes + laden with people, plantains, &c., were passing to and fro; groups of + villagers, some standing, others sitting, upon the raised bamboo-platforms + outside their houses, were busy bartering fish for plantains, while the + children played around, apparently unconscious of any danger from falling + into the water. The settlement consisted of over forty houses, mostly of + bamboo, a few of "swish," forming one long irregular line, and three or + four standing away from the rest round a corner of land, after the Fanti + custom. These houses were built on a bamboo-platform supported by piles, + and raised above the water some three and a half feet. One half of the + platform is covered by the house; the other half, left free, is used to + fish from, for the children to play about on, and for receptions when + palavers are held. + </p> + <p> + 'The distance from the shore varies with the overflow of the lake, at the + time of my visit about thirty to forty yards, though for miles beyond this + the ground was saturated with water, whose depth varied from three and a + half to nine feet. The piles are made of stout sticks; the mode of driving + them in is to lash two canoes abreast by means of two sticks or paddles, + placed transversely, leaving an open space of about two and a half feet + between them. Two men in each canoe, and facing each other, then + vigorously twist and churn about the pole, or rather stick, into the soft + bottom of the lagoon. Some fifteen of these poles are thus driven in and + firmly braced together by cross-pieces, upon which the platform is + constructed, and on this again the house is built. + </p> + <p> + 'We stopped here to breakfast before ascending the Bousaha River; and, + while so doing, I counted at one time over forty natives sitting round us + on the platform. I was not without my fears that we should all be + precipitated into the water, but the structure, though in appearance frail + and very rude, was far stronger than what it looked. + </p> + <p> + 'I closely questioned the natives as to why they had built their village + upon the lake, and they invariably gave as their reason that they chiefly + fished at night; and, as the water often overflowed, they would have to + build their houses too far away to be able to come and go during the + night; whereas "now," they said, "we are close to where we catch our fish, + and we often catch them even from our houses." Underneath each house were + tied from one to five, and sometimes more, canoes. These were much + lighter, more rounded off in the keel, stem, and stern, than the + beach-canoes. + </p> + <p> + 'Three white men, they told me, had visited their village—Captain + Dudley in 1876, judging from the age of a child who was born at the time + of his visit; Captain Grant and Mr. Gillett, in 1878, I afterwards learnt, + were the other two. None of them went further into the interior. + </p> + <p> + 'After breakfast we crossed the lagoon, passing on our way several canoes + fishing in the middle. The water was very clear and blue, and of + considerable depth, judging from a stone dropped in. Unfortunately I had + no other means of sounding. Not until a dozen yards from the shore were + any signs of a stream discernible. Pushing aside some reeds, we entered a + narrow lane of water, varying from three feet to eighteen feet in width, + deep, and, according to the natives, navigable for three days by canoes. + This stream is known by the name of Bousaha, and the lagoon by Ebumesu. + After two hours' hard paddling in a northerly direction we stopped to walk + to the village of Níbá, a large place, principally engaged in raising food + for the coast fishing-villages and Béin, and also in elephant-hunting. + </p> + <p> + 'Elephants at the time of my visit were reported in large numbers two + days' journey in the bush, and the villagers were then organising a party + for a hunt. Outside the village I came across the skull of a young + elephant, from which I extracted the teeth. The only report of a white man + having been here before was long ago, when, some of the old men told me, + he came from Assini direction, but turned back again. The village was + neatly laid out in streets and was beautifully clean. + </p> + <p> + 'Another three hours' pull, still bearing northwards, brought us to the + village of Essuati, a smaller place than Níbá, but very prettily laid out + with trees, surrounded by seats in its central street. The people here, as + at Níbá, were mainly engaged in agriculture. + </p> + <p> + 'Crowds came to see the "white man," many of the women and children never + having been to Axim, the nearest place where whites are to be found, and, + consequently, had never seen one before. + </p> + <p> + 'After a few days' stay here I returned to the coast. While there I came + across a curious fish-trap, a description of which may not be + uninteresting. Across a stick planted in the river-bed a light piece of + bamboo was tied, and at its further extremity was suspended a string + carrying fish-hooks. Above these a broad piece of wood, suspended so as to + be half in and half out of the water, acted as a float and spindle. Above + this again were tied four large shells, so that when a fish is hooked the + shells begin to jingle, and the fishermen, hid in the bush, immediately + rush out and secure the fish.' + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0007" id="link2HCH0007"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XVIII. — THE IZRAH MINE—THE IKYOKO CONCESSION—THE + RETURN TO AXIM. + </h2> + <p> + The next day (February 2) showed me my objective, Izrah, after a voyage of + nearly three months. The caravan, now homeward-bound after a fashion, rose + early, and we hammocked in the cool and misty morning along shore to + Inyenápoli—the word means Greater Inyena, as opposed to Inyenachi, + the Less. In the house of Mr. J. Eskine I saw his tradesman bartering + cloth for gold-dust. The weighing apparatus is complicated and curious, + and complete sets of implements are rare; they consist of blowers, + sifters, spoons, native scales, weights of many kinds, and 'fetish + gong-gongs,' or dwarf double bells. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> +Gold-dust is the only coin of the realm; and travellers who would pass +north of the Protectorate must buy it on the coast. It is handier than one +would suppose; even a farthing can be paid in it by putting one or two +grains upon a knife-tip, and there is a name, <i>peseha</i> (Port. <i>peso</i>?), +for a pennyworth. Larger values go by weight; the <i>aki</i> (<i>ackie</i>), +[Footnote: The word <i>aki</i> sounds much like the Arab <i>roukkah</i> or +<i>roukkiyah</i>. Its weight, the 16th of an ounce, never varies; but the value +ranges from 4<i>s</i>. 6<i>d</i>. to 5<i>s</i>., according as the ounce is worth 3<i>l</i>. +12<i>s</i>. to 4<i>l</i>. 10<i>s</i>., the average being assumed at 4<i>l</i>. Other +proportions are:— + The <i>toku</i> (carat-seed) = 5<i>d</i>. + The <i>benna</i> = 2 <i>akis</i>. + The <i>periquen</i>, <i>pereguen</i>, or <i>peredroano</i> = 32 <i>akis</i>, or two ounces in +weight; and ranging in value from 9<i>l</i>. to 10<i>l</i>. (Bowdich, p. 283). The +word is Ashanti, little used by the Fantis. +</pre> + <p> + For a list of these complicated gold weights, of which Mr. Grant has + promised me a set, see Appendix B, <i> A Dictionary of the Asante and + Fante Language</i>, Rev. Christaller, Basel, 1881.] or sixteenth of an + ounce, being the unit of value. The people may be persuaded to take an + English sovereign, but they spurn a French napoleon. Amongst the many + desiderata of the Coast is a law making all our silver coins legal + tenders. At present the natives will scarcely take anything but + threepenny-bits, new and bright and bearing H.B.M.'s 'counterfeit + presentment.' Copper has been tried, but was made to fail by a clever + District-commissioner, who refused to take the metal in payment of + Government dues. The old cowrie-currency, of which the <i>tapo</i>, or + score, represented two farthings, is all but extinct. Its name will be + preserved in the proverb, 'There is no market wherein the dove with the + pouting breast (the <i>cypraea</i>) has not traded.' The same is the case + with the oldest money, round and perforated quartz-stones, which suggest + the ring-coinage of ancient Egypt. From Inyenápoli, preceded by King Blay, + who so managed that a fair path had been hastily cut through the bush, we + struck inland, the course being northwards, bending to the north-east and + east. The first hour, covering some three miles, lay partly over a flat + plain of grass used for thatch, pimpled with red anthills and broken by + lines and patches of dense jungle. These savannahs are common near the + sea; we had already remarked one behind Béin. They denote the 'false + coast,' and they become during the wet season almost impassable swamps and + mud-fields. + </p> + <p> + Then we struck the valley of 'Ebumesu, winding water,' whose approach, + rank with mire and corded with roots, is the Great Dismal Swamp of Dahome + in miniature. Here, seven and a quarter miles from the mouth, the stream + measures about twenty yards broad, the <i>thalweg</i> is deep and + navigable, and the water, bitumen-coloured with vegetable matter, tastes + brackish. There is the usual wasteful profusion of growth. Ferns ramp upon + the trees; Cameron counted at Akankon two dozen different species within a + few hundred yards. Orchids bunch the boughs and boles of dead + forest-giants; and llianas, the African 'tie-tie,' varying in growth from + a packthread to a cable, act as cordage to connect the growths. + </p> + <p> + There is evidently a shorter cut up the river, at whose lagoon-mouth craft + can be hired. Our ferryman with his single canoe wasted a good hour over + the work of a few minutes. We then remounted hammock and struck the 'true + coast,' a charming bit of country, gradually upsloping to the north and + east. The path passed through the plantation-villages, Benyá and Arábo, + growing bananas and maize, cassava and groundnuts, peppers and papaws, + cocoas and bamboo-palms (<i>Raphia vinifera</i>). The latter not only + build the houses, they also yield wine of two kinds, both, however, + inferior to the produce of the oil-palm (<i>Elais guineënsis</i>). The <i>adúbé</i>, + drawn from the cut spathe, which continues to yield for two or three + months, is held to be wholesome, diuretic, and laxative. The <i>inséfu</i> + is produced in mortice-like holes cut along the felled trunk; they fill + freely for a fortnight to three weeks, when fires must be lighted below to + make the juice run into the pots. It is sweeter and better flavoured than + the former, but it is accused of being unwholesome. The people drink + palm-wine at different hours of the day, according to taste. The beverage + is mild as milk in the morning; after noon it becomes heady, and rough as + the sourest cider. The useful palm bears a huge bolster-like roll of + fruit, which should be tried for oil: Cameron brought home a fine specimen + for Kew. Here the land is evidently most fertile, and will form good farms + for the Company. Leaving Arábo, we forded the double stream called the + Bilá, which runs a few yards west of the concession. The banks are grown + with rice, showing how easily they will produce all the food necessary for + the labourers. The quality, moreover, is better, and the grain more + nutritious than the Chinese import. The bed of bright sand, supplying the + sweetest water, has in places been worked for gold by the women, but much + remains to be done. + </p> + <p> + In another hour, making a total of six miles from Inyenápoli, we reached + our destination, Arábokasu, or 'One Stone for Top.' We lodged our + belongings in the bamboo-house newly built by Mr. Grant, finding it + perfectly fit for temporary use. Before I left Axim Mr. C. C. Robertson + landed there, instructed by the Izrah Company to choose a fair site for a + frame-house mounted on piles. It was presently made in England, but + unfortunately not after the Lagos fashion, with the bed-rooms opening upon + a verandah seven to nine feet broad, and a double roof of wood with + air-space between, instead of thatch and corrugated iron. The house + measures 52 x 32 feet, and contains four bed-rooms, a dining-room, and the + manager's office. A comfortable tenement of the kind costs from 300<i>l</i>. + to 500<i>l</i>., an exceptional article 700<i>l</i>. + </p> + <p> + We at once set out to cast a first glance upon the Izrah mine. The word is + properly Izíá, a stone, also the name of the man who began gold-digging on + the spot. This style of nomenclature is quite 'country-fashion.' + Apparently Izíá became Izrah to assume a 'Scriptural' sound; if so, why + not 'go the whole animal' and call it the Isaiah? + </p> + <p> + This fine concession is a rectangular parallelogram, whose dimensions are + 2,000 yards long from north to south, by a breadth of half. The village + stands outside the south-western angle, and the Fía rivulet runs through + the south-eastern corner. The surface is rolling ground, with a rise and a + depression trending from south-west to north-east. The whole extent, + except where 'bush' lingers, is an old plantation of bananas, manioc, and + ground-nuts. There is an ample supply of good hard timber, but red + pitch-pine or creosoted teak from England would last much longer. Amongst + the trees are especially noted the copal, the gamboge, rich in sticky + juice, the <i>brovi</i>, said to be the hardest wood, and the <i>dum</i>, + or African mahogany (<i>Oldfieldia africana</i>), well known in Ceylon as + excellent material for boat-building. There was an abundance of the + Calabar-bean (<i>Physostigma venenosum</i>), once used for an + ordeal-poison, and now applied by surgery in ophthalmic and other + complaints. The 'tie-tie,' as Anglo-Africans call the rope-like creepers, + was also plentiful; it may prove valuable for cordage, and possibly for + paper-making. I was pleased to see the ease with which the heaped-up + jungle-growth is burnt at this season and the facility of road-making. + Half a dozen Kru-boys with their matchets can open, at the rate of some + miles a day, a path fit to carry a 'sulky;' and the ground wants only + metalling with the stone which lines every stream. At the same time I hold + that here, as in Mexico, we should begin with railways and tramways. Nor + will there be any difficulty in keeping down the jungle. The soft and + silky Bahama-grass has been brought from Sá Leone to Axim, where it covers + the open spaces, and it grows well at Akankon. There is no trouble except + to plant a few roots, which extend themselves afar; and the carpet when + thick allows, like the orange-tree, no undergrowth. + </p> + <p> + The 'Izrah' concession is due to the energy and activity of Mr. R. B. N. + Walker, who has told its history. In March 1881, when he first visited it, + there had been a black 'rush;' the din and clamour of human voices were + audible from afar, and on reaching the mine he found some 300 natives hard + at work. I was told that the greatest number at one time was 2,000. The + account reminds us exactly of the human floods so famous in other parts of + the mining world. The men were sinking pits of unusual size along the + south-eastern slope of the hillock, where the great clearing now is. The + excitement was remarkable; and, negroes not being given to hard and + continuous labour without adequate inducement, the bustle and the uproar, + and the daily increasing numbers of miners flocking from considerable + distances, were evidence sufficient that there was an unusually good + 'find.' Their pits, attaining a maximum of 12 feet square by 55 deep, + extended over some 150 yards from NN.E. to SS.W., with a breadth of about + 20. From some of these holes rich quartz had been taken, one piece, the + size of a 32-pounder cannon-ball, yielding more than ten ounces of gold. A + shaft, however, soon caved in, for the usual reason: it had been + inadequately timbered and incautiously widened at the bottom to the shape + of a sodawater-bottle. All these works owed a royalty to Ahin Blay; but + his dues were irregularly paid, and consequently he preferred to them a + fixed rental of 100<i>l</i>. per annum. + </p> + <p> + The following anecdote will show how limited is the power of these + 'kings.' He of Apollonia wished to sell this southern patch of ground, + worked by the natives, it being, in fact, the terminal tail of the Izrah + reef and the key of the property. But one Etié, head-man of Kikam, bluntly + refused. Presently this chieflet agreed to sell to Mr. Grant the whole + tract, a length of one thousand fathoms from north to south, the breadth + being left undetermined. But Etié was deep in Messieurs Swanzy's books, + and he wanted ready money. The tempter came in the shape of Mr. Dawson, a + native missionary whom I met a score of years ago at Agbóme, and whose + name appears in all narratives of the last Ashanti war. Although an + employé of the Tákwá or French mine, he bought for himself, paying 200<i>l</i>., + the best part of the reef (100 fathoms), leaving the butt-end, of inferior + value, to Mr. Grant. This was a direct breach of contract, and might be + brought into the local law-courts. I advised, however, an arrangement <i>ŕ + l'aimable</i>, and I still hope to see it carried out. + </p> + <p> + Life at Arábokasu was pleasant enough. The site, rising about 120 feet + above ocean-level, permits the 'Doctor,' alias the sea-breeze, to blow + freshly, and we distinctly heard the sough of the surf. Mornings and + evenings were exceedingly fine, and during the cool nights we found + blankets advisable. These 'small countries' (little villages) are + remarkably clean, and so are the villagers, who, unlike certain + white-skins, bathe at least once a day. At this season we had nothing to + complain of mosquitoes or sand-flies, nor was 'Insektenpulver' wanted + inside the house. The only physiological curiosity in the settlement was a + spotted boy, a regular piebald, like a circus-pony; even his head grew a + triangular patch of white hair. We wanted him for the London Aquarium, but + there were difficulties in the way. Amongst the Apollonians albinoes are + not uncommon; nor are the children put to death, as by the Ashantis. Both + races cut the boss from hunchbacks after decease, and 'make fetish' over + it to free the future family from similar distortion. Our villagers told + us strange tales of a magician near Assini who can decapitate a man and + restore him to life, and who lately had placed a dog's head on a boy's + body. Who can 'doubt the fact'? the boy was there! + </p> + <p> + I will now borrow freely from the diary kept during our five days' + inspection of the Izrah diggings. Cameron worked hard at a rough survey of + the ground which Mr. Walker had attempted with considerable success, + seeing that he carried only a pedometer and a small pocket-compass. My + proceedings were necessarily limited, as I had no authority to disburse + money. + </p> + <p> + <i>February 3</i>.—The night had been somewhat noisy with the + hyena-like screams which startled our soldiers <i>en route</i> to Kumasi. + They are said to proceed from a kind of hyrax (?) about the size of a + rabbit; the Krumen call it a 'bush-dog', and, as will appear, Cameron + holds it to be a lemur. The morning was cool, but not clear, and the + country so far like the 'Garden of Eden' that there went up a mist from + the earth and watered the whole face of the ground. But the mist was a + Scotch mist, which, in less humid lands, might easily pass for fine rain; + and the drip, drip, drip of heavy dew-drops from the broad banana-leaves + sounded like a sharp shower. At this hour the birds are wide awake and + hungry; a hundred unknown songsters warble their native wood-notes wild. + The bush resounds with the shriek of the parrot and the cooing of the + ringdove, which reminds me of the Ku-ku-ku (Where, oh, where?) of + Umar-i-Khayyám. Its rival is the <i>tsil-fui-fui-fui</i>, or 'hair grown,' + meaning that his locks are too long and there is no one to cut or shave + them. Upon the nearest tall tree, making a spiteful noise to frighten away + all specimens, sits the 'watch-bird,' or <i>apateplu</i>, so called from + his cry; he is wary and cunning, but we bagged two. The 'clock-bird,' + supposed to toll every hour, has a voice which unites the bark of a dog, + the caw of a crow, and the croak of a frog: he is rarely seen and even + cleverer than 'hair grown.' More familiar sounds are the <i>roucoulement</i> + of the pigeon and the tapping of the woodpecker. The only fourfooted beast + we saw was the small bush-antelope with black robe, of which a specimen + was brought home, and the only accident was the stinging of a Kruboy by a + spider more spiteful than a scorpion. + </p> + <p> + Reaching the ground after a ten minutes' walk, we examined the principal + reef as carefully as we could. The strike is nearly north-south, the dip + easterly, and the thickness unknown. The trial-shaft, sunk by Mr. Walker + in the centre of the southern line, was of considerable size, eight by + twelve feet; and the depth measured thirty, of which four held water based + upon clay-mud. The original native shafts to the south are of two kinds, + the indigenous chimney-pit and the parallelogram-shaped well borrowed from + Europeans. The latter varied in dimensions from mere holes to oblongs six + by seven feet; and all the more important were roofed and thatched with + pent-houses of palm-leaf, to keep out the rain. The shaft-timbering, also + a loan from foreigners, consisted of perpendicular bamboo-fronds tied with + bush-rope to a frame of poles cut from small trees; they corresponded with + our sets and laths. There were rude ladders, but useful enough, two + bamboos connected by rungs of 'tie-tie.' The 'sollars' were shaky + platforms of branches, but there was no sign of a winch. + </p> + <p> + We set Krumen and porters to clear and lay out the southern boundary, and + to open a path leading direct to the beach. One would fancy that nothing + is easier than to cut bush in a straight line from pole to pole, + especially when these were marked by strips of red calico. Yet the moment + our backs were turned the wrong direction was taken. It pains one's heart + to see the shirking of work, the slipping away into the bush for a sleep, + and the roasting of maize and palm-nuts—'ground-pigs' fare,' they + call the latter—whenever an opportunity occurs. The dawdling walk + and the dragging of one leg after the other, with intervals to stand and + scratch, are a caution. Even the villagers appear incapable of protracted + labour unless it leads immediately to their benefit, and the future never + claims a thought. + </p> + <p> + <i>February 4</i>.—After the south-eastern corner had been marked + with a tall cross, we opened a path from Arábokasu to the trial-shaft. We + threw a bridge of the felled trunks cumbering the clearing over the Fía + rivulet, and again examined its bed. Gold had been found in it by the + women, and this, as usual, gave rise to the discovery of its subtending + reef. The whole of the little river-valley extending to the sea should be + bought and worked; there is no doubt that it will turn out rich. In the + channel we found an outcrop of slates, both crumbling and compact; this is + always a welcome sign. To the east of the water there is a second + quartz-reef, running parallel with the upper ridge, and apparently + untouched by the pick. + </p> + <p> + The next two days were spent in finishing the southern line and in + planting a post at the south-western extremity. Here we found that our + workmen had gone entirely wrong, and we were forced to repeat the work. I + had exposed myself over-freely to the sun, and could do little for the + next week: fortunately my energetic companion was in better condition. + </p> + <p> + <i>February 7</i>.—Cameron took bearings from the south of the + concession, which he placed, with Mr. Walker, four geographical miles from + the sea. Other informants had exaggerated it to him, and M. Dahse writes + six. After 1,000 to 1,200 yards he struck the 'false coast,' crossed a + deep and fetid swamp, and, after a short rise, came upon the miry borders + of the Ebumesu. He canoed 800 yards down-stream without difficulty; and, + finding the water brackish while the ebb-tide ran strong, he considered + that this part was rather a lagoon than a river. The people also assured + us that it runs along the coast, ending near and north of the Béin + Fort-village. + </p> + <p> + In the evening my companion and Mr. Grant walked to the north-west of the + concession; the place is called by Mr. Walker Iziá-bookah (Izíá Hill), but + the natives ignore the term. Here, at a distance of 900 yards north and by + west (true) of the Arábokasu village, they found and collected specimens + of a fine reef of hard white quartz. 'Women's washings' were numerous, + showing the proper way to begin working the ground. The right of + prospecting the whole of the section to the N.E. had been secured by Mr. + Walker for Mr. Irvine, and presently the 'Apollonian concession' appeared + in the mining journals. + </p> + <p> + We had now done all we could; the circumstances of the case compelled us + to study the geology and topography of the property rather than its + geology and mineralogy. Nothing now remained save to <i>rebrousser chemin</i>. + Good King Blay, who had formally made over to me possession of the 'Izrah' + mine, left us for his own village, in order to cure an inflamed foot. He + attributed it to the 'fetish' of some unfriend; but it turned out to be + Guinea-worm, a malady from which many are suffering this season. We parted + upon the most friendly terms and arranged to meet again. + </p> + <p> + Both of us came to the conviction that the 'Izrah Concession' will pay, + and pay well. But instead of the routine shafting and tunnelling it must + be treated by hydraulicking and washing away the thirty feet of auriferous + soil, whose depth covers the reef. The bed of the Fía will supply the + water, and a force-pump, worked by men, or preferably by steam-power. Thus + we shall keep the mine dry: otherwise it will be constantly flooded. + Moreover, the land seems to be built for ditching and sluicing, and the + trenches will want only a plank-box with a metal grating at the head. I + can only hope that the operations will be conducted by an expert hand who + knows something of the Californian or the Australian diggings. + </p> + <p> + On February 8 we left Arábokasu, intending to march upon the 'Inyoko + Concession.' Our guide and people, however, seemed to change every five + minutes what they might call their 'minds,' and at last they settled to + try the worst, but to us the most interesting line. At 8 A.M. we struck + into the bush <i>viâ</i> a heap of huts, the 'Matinga' village, at the + south-eastern corner of the fine mineral property. Here 'women's washings' + again appeared. At the Achyáko settlement we crossed the two branches of + the Fía. One measures twenty feet wide and two feet six inches deep in the + dry season; it runs a knot an hour, and thus the supply is ample. About a + mile further on we were carried across the Gwabisa stream, four feet wide + by eighteen inches deep, running over a bed of quartz-pebbles. This ended + the 'true coast.' + </p> + <p> + The 'false coast' began close to the little settlement known as Ashankru. + It shows a fine quartz-reef, striking north fourteen degrees east. The + formation was shown by the normal savannah and jungle-strips. About noon + we were ferried over the eastern arm of the Ebumesu, known as the Pápá. I + have noted scanty belief in the bar of the Ebumesu proper, the western + feature. The eastern entrance, however, perhaps can be used between the + end of December and March, and in calm weather would offer little + difficulty to the surfboats transhipping machinery from the steamers. + </p> + <p> + Beginning a little east of the Esyámo village, the Pápá lagoon subtends + the coast. We shot over it in the evening, and at night found quarters at + the Ezrimenu village marked Ebu-mesu in old maps. + </p> + <p> + This return march of two hours or so had been a mere abomination. The + path, which had not been cleared, led through a tangle of foul and fetid + thicket, upon which the sun darted a sickly, malignant beam. Creepers and + llianas, some of which are spiny and poisonous, barred the thread of path, + which could not be used for hammocks. The several stream-beds, about to + prove so precious, run chocolate-tinted water over vegetable mire, rich, + when stirred, in sulphuretted hydrogen. The only bridges are fallen + trunks. Amongst the minor pests are the <i>nkran</i>, or 'driver,' the <i>ahoho</i>, + a highly-savoured red ant, and the <i>hahinni</i>, a large black formica + terribly graveolent; flies like the tzetze, centipedes, scorpions, and + venomous spiders, which make men 'writhe like cut worms.' There was a + weary uniformity in the closed view, and the sole breaks were an + occasional plantation or a few pauper huts, with auriferous swish, buried + in that eternal green. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + God made the country and man made the town, +</pre> + <p> + sang the silly sage, who evidently had never seen a region untouched by + the human hand. Finally, this 'Fía route' will probably become the main + line from Axim to the Izrah mine, and the face of the country will be + changed within a year. + </p> + <p> + As I was still weak Cameron and Mr. Grant early next morning (Feb. 9) + canoed over the 300 yards or so of the Pápá lagoon bounding Ezrimenu + village on the landward side. They then struck nearly due north; and, + after walking three-quarters of an hour, perhaps two miles and a half, + over a good open path, easily convertible into a cart-road, they reached + the Inyoko Concession. It measures 2,400 yards square, beginning at the + central shaft, on the northern side of the hill which gives it a name; and + thus it lies only about eight miles westward of the Ancobra River. The + ground has not been much worked of late years, but formerly Kwáko Akka, + the tyrant of Apollonia, 'rich in blood and ore,' who was deposed by the + British Colonial Government about 1850, and was imprisoned in Cape Coast + Castle, is said to have obtained from it much of his wealth. + </p> + <p> + They found the strike of the hill approximately north 22ş east (true); + [Footnote: In laying down limits great attention must be paid to + variation. As a rule 19ş 45' west has been assumed from the Admiralty + charts—good news for the London attorney. At Tumento this figure + rises to 20ş; upon the coast it must be changed to 19ş 15' (W.), and in + other places to 16ş 40'.] the dip appears to be easterly, and the natives + have worked the <i>Abbruch</i> or <i>débris</i> which have fallen from the + reef-crest. This wall may be a continuation of the Akankon formation; both + are rich in a highly crystalline quartz of livid blue, apparently the best + colour throughout the Gold Region. The surface-ground, of yellowish marl + with quartz-pebbles, is evidently auriferous, and below it lies a harder + red earth rusty with iron. From the southern boundary of the Inyoko + concession, and the village of that name, runs a strong outcrop of a + kindly white quartz, which, when occurring in conjunction with the blue, + usually denotes that both are richer than when a single colour is found. + Such at least is Cameron's experience. + </p> + <p> + Mr. Walker, who secured this concession also, notes that the native pits + were very shallow and superficial. He was pressed for time, and sunk his + trial-shaft but little more than three fathoms: here free gold was visible + in the blue quartz, which yielded upwards of one ounce per ton. + </p> + <p> + My companion found the shaft still open, and observed that the valley + contained many holes and washing-pits. One was pointed out to him by Mr. + Grant as having yielded twenty ounces of dust in one day: these reports + recall the glories of California and Australia in the olden time. The + little Etubu water, which runs 200 yards from the shaft, would easily form + a reservoir, supplying the means of washing throughout the year. Here, + then, are vast facilities for hydraulic work; millions of cubic feet can + be strained of thin gold at a minimum expenditure. There will be less + 'dead work,' and 'getting' would be immediate. Thus, too, as in + California, the land will be prepared for habitation and agriculture, and + the conditions of climate will presently be changed for the better. + </p> + <p> + Early in the forenoon (Jan. 9) we hammocked to the Kikam village, and were + much disappointed. King Blay, too lame to leave his home, had sent his + interpreter to show us the Yirima or 'Choke-full' reef; and the man, + doubtless influenced by some intrigue, gave us wrong information. Moreover + the <i>safahin</i> Etié, before mentioned, had gone, they said, to his + lands at Prince's: he was probably lurking in some adjacent hut. We + breakfasted in his house, but all the doors were bolted and locked, and + his people would hardly serve us with drinking water. We attempted in vain + to buy the <i>boma</i>, or fetish-drum, a venerable piece of furniture + hung round with human crania, of which only the roofs remained. King Blay, + however, eventually sent us home a <i>boma</i>, and it was duly exhibited + in town. Kikam was the only place in Apollonia where we met with churlish + treatment; no hospitality, however, could be expected when the strangers + were supposed to be mixed up in a native quarrel. + </p> + <p> + Unwilling to linger any longer in the uninviting and uninteresting spot, + we ordered our hammocks, set out at noon, and, following the line over + which we had travelled, reached Axim at 5 P.M. + </p> + <p> + We had no other reason to complain of our week's trip except its + inordinate expense. Apparently one must be the owner of a rich gold-mine + to live in and travel on the Gold Coast. We had already in a fortnight got + through the 50<i>l</i>. of silver sent from England; and this, too, + without including the expenses of bed and board. + </p> + <p> + We came home with the conviction that the Inyoko property should have been + the second proposed for exploitation, coming immediately after the Apatim. + Our reasons were the peculiar facilities of reaching it and the certainty + that, when work here begins, it will greatly facilitate communication with + 'Izrah.' But progress is slow upon the Gold Coast, and our wishes may + still be realised. + </p> + <p> + I cannot better conclude this chapter than with an extract from Captain + Brackenbury's 'Narrative of the Ashanti War.' [Footnote: Blackwoods, + Edinburgh and London, 1874. Vol. ii. pp. 351, 352.] It will show how well + that experienced and intelligent officer foresaw in 1873 the future of the + Gold Coast. + </p> + <p> + 'Are there no means of opening this country up to trade, no means of + infusing into it an element superior to that of the Fanti races, of + holding in check the savagery of the inland tribes, and preventing the + whole coast again becoming abandoned to fetishism and human sacrifices? To + the writer's mind there is but one method, and that one by an appeal to + man's most ignoble passion—the lust of gold. This country is not + without reason called the Gold Coast. Gold is there in profusion, and to + be had for the seeking. We have ourselves seen the women washing the sand + at Cape Coast and finding gold. When Captain Thompson visited the Wassaw + (Wásá) country, he found the roads impassable at night by reason of the + gold-pits upon them. Captain Butler describes western Akim as a country + teeming with gold. Captain Glover has said that in eastern Akim gold is + plentiful as potatoes in Ireland, and the paths were honeycombed with + gold-pits. Dawson has distinctly stated his opinion that the Fanti + gold-mines are far more valuable than those of Ashanti—that the only + known Ashanti gold-mine of great value is that of Manoso; whereas the + Wassaw and the Nquamfossoo mines, as well as the Akim mines, have + rock-gold (nuggets) in profusion. He says that the Ashantis get their gold + from the Fantis in exchange for slaves, whom they buy for two or three + loads of coller- (kola-) nuts, worth less than half an ounce of gold, and + sell to the Fantis for as much as two and a quarter ounces of gold. Let + our Government prospect these mines; let Acts be passed similar to those + by which vast railway companies are empowered to compel persons to sell + their land at a fair price; let our Government, by means of Houssa troops, + guarantee protection to companies formed to work the mines, and let the + payment to the kings in whose country they are be by royalties upon the + gold obtained. The kings would offer the utmost resistance to their mines + being thus taken and worked; but they have never worked them properly + themselves, and they will never work them properly; and it would be no + injustice to allow others to do so. If the true value of these services + were ascertained by Government mining engineers, if the Government would + guarantee protection to those engaged in working them, companies would + soon be formed to reap the rich harvest to be found upon the coast. + Chinese coolies would be imported, who would breed in with the natives and + infuse some energy into the Fanti races. Trade would soon follow, roads be + made, and the whole country opened up. The engagement of our Government + should be a limited one, for if once the gold-mines were at work there + would be no further fear that the country would ever fell back into the + hands of the Ashantis.' + </p> + <p> + The counsel is good, but we have done better. Private companies have + undertaken the work, and have succeeded where the Government would fail. + So far from resisting, the 'kings' have been too glad to accept our + offers. And now the course is forwards, without costing the country a + farthing, and with a fair prospect of supplying to it a large proportion + of the precious metal still wanted. + </p> + <p> + NOTE.—Since these lines were written the <i>Yiri</i> (full) <i>ma</i> + (quite) reef has been leased by Mr. Grant, who sent home specimens + showing, I am told, 14 oz. per ton. The fine property belongs to King + Blay, who built a village upon it and there stationed his brother to + prevent 'jumping.' In the spring of 1862 he wished to keep half the ground + for his own use. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0008" id="link2HCH0008"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XIX. — TO PRINCE'S RIVER AND BACK. + </h2> + <p> + On February 15 we proceeded down coast to inspect the mining-lands of + Prince's River valley, east of Axim; and this time it was resolved to + travel by surf-boat, ignoring that lazy rogue the hammock-man. Yet even + here difficulties arose. Mast and sail were to be borrowed, and paddles + were to be hired at the rate of a shilling a day each. They are the life + of the fishing Aximites; yet they have not the energy to make them, and + must buy those made in Elmina. + </p> + <p> + The eastern coast, like that of Apollonia, is a succession of points and + bays, of cool-looking emerald jungle and of 'Afric's golden sands' reeking + with unkindly heat. Passing the long black tongue of Prépré, or Inkubun, + and the red projection, Ponta Terceira, we sighted the important Ajámera + village, so called from a tree whose young leaves show a tender + pinkish-red. On the Awazán Boppo Hill, about two miles from the + trial-shaft of his concession, Dr. Ross found a native 'Long Tom.' It was + a hollowed palm-trunk rotten with age, closed at one end and open at the + other, with a slant downwards; two forks supported it over a water-filled + hollow, measuring ten feet each way by three deep. Ajámera lies a little + west of the peninsula, <i>Africanicč</i> Madrektánah, a jutting mass of + naked granite glazed red by sea-water: on either side of the sandy neck, + pinned down, like Pirate's Bay, by cocoa-nuts, there is the safest + landing-place. And now we sight our port, distant some nine miles from + Axim. + </p> + <p> + In front rises Prince's Hill, clad in undergrowth with a topping tuft of + tall figs. At its eastern base lies the townlet, showing more whitewash + than usual; and, nearer still, the narrow mouth of the fiery little Yenna, + Prince's or St. John's River. The view is backed by the tall and wooded + ridge of Cape Threepoints, the southernmost headland of the Gold Coast, + behind which is Dixcove. It is interesting to us because a syndicate has + been formed, and engineers are being sent out to survey the pathless + 'bush' between the sea and Tumento on the Ancobra, whose site was at the + time unknown. Cameron presently discovered that the Tákwá ridge is nearer + Axim than Dixcove is, and that the line would pass within easy distance of + Kinyanko, one of its <i>raisons d'ętre</i>. + </p> + <p> + This wild plan has been supported by sundry concessionists whose interests + lie behind Dixcove and at Kinyanko. Dixcove of the crocodile-worship has + one of the worst bars on the coast. Canoes and surf-boats must run within + biscuit-throw of the Rock Kum-Brenni [Footnote: In the Oji or + Ashanti-Fanti tongue <i>bro</i> or <i>bronni</i> (the Ga 'blofo') means + somebody or something European. It is derived from <i>abro</i> (<i>blo</i>), + maize, introduced by white men; others say that when the first strangers + landed upon the coast, the women, who were grinding, said, 'These men are + white as maize-meal.' 'Abrokirri' (Europe) is, however, explained by the + Rev. Mr. Riis as perhaps a corruption of Puto, Porto, Portugal.] ('White + Man's Death'), and the surf will often shut up the landing-place for four + or five successive days. The place will become important, but not in this + way. The Rev. Mr. Milum, in whose pleasant society I voyaged, showed me + his sketch of the station with an isolated red 'butte,' possibly an island + of old, rising close behind the houses and trending north-south. + Grain-gold was found in it by the native schoolmaster, who dug where he + saw a thin smoke or vapour hovering over the ground: throughout the Coast + this, like the presence of certain ferns, is held a sure sign that the + precious ore is present. Moreover, a small nugget appeared in the swish + being prepared for a house-wall. Thus 'washing' will be easy and + inexpensive, and the Wesleyan mission may secure funds for extending + itself into the non-maritime regions. + </p> + <p> + We turned the boat's head shorewards, and, after encountering the normal + three seas, ran her upon the beach near the right jaw of Prince's River. + The actual mouth is between natural piers of sea-blackened trap-rock, and + the gullet behind it could at this season be cleared by an English hunter. + We unloaded and warped our conveyance round the gape till she rode safe in + the inner broad. And now we saw that Prince's is not the river of the + hydrographic chart, but a true lagoon-stream, the remains of a much larger + formation. There has been, here and on other parts of the coast, a little + archipelago whose islets directed the riverine courses; the shallows + between were warped up by mangrove and other swampy vegetation, and the + whole has become, after a fashion, <i>terra firma</i>. Each holm had + doubtless a core of rock, whose decay produced a rich soil. Now they are + mounds and ridges of red clay standing up abruptly, and their dense + growths of dark yew-like trees contrast with the yellowish produce of the + adjacent miry lowlands. + </p> + <p> + The chief of Prince's Town, Eshánchi, <i>alias</i> 'Septimulus,' a name + showing a succession of seven sons, not without a suspicion of twins, + would have accompanied us up stream. Guinea-worm, however, forbade, and he + sent a couple of guides, one of whom, Wafápa, <i>alias</i> 'Barnabas,' a + stout, active freedman of the village, proved very useful. + </p> + <p> + We resolved to shoot the banks going, and to collect botanical specimens + on return. The land appears poor in mammals, rich in avifauna, and + exceedingly abundant in insect life. Of larger animals there are leopards, + cat o' mountains and civet-cats, wild hog and fine large deer; we bought a + leg weighing 11-1/2 lbs., and it was excellent eating seasoned with 'poor + man's quinine,' <i>alias</i> garlic. Natives and strangers speak of the + jungle-cow, probably the Nyaré antelope (<i>Bos brachyceros</i>) of the + Gaboon regions, the <i>empacasso</i> of the Portuguese. Two small black + squirrels, scampering about a white-boled tree, were cunning enough never + to give a shot. We sighted only small monkeys with white beards and ruddy + coats. 'He be too clever for we,' said the Kruboys when the wary mannikins + hid in the bush. I saw nothing of the <i>kontromfi</i>, cynocephalus or + dog-faced baboon, concerning whose ferocity this part of Africa is full of + stories. Further north there is a still larger anthropoid, which the + natives call a wild man and Europeans a gorilla. The latter describe its + peculiar whoop, heard in the early night when the sexes call to each + other. + </p> + <p> + Our results were two species of kingfishers (<i>alcedo</i>), the third and + larger kind not showing; a true curlew (<i>Numenius arquata</i>), charming + little black swallows (<i>Wardenia nigrita</i>), the common English + swallow; a hornbill (<i>buceros</i>), all feathers and no flesh; a lean + and lanky diver (<i>plotus</i>), some lovely little honeysuckers, a red + oriole, a fine vulture (<i>Gypohierax angolensis</i>), and a grand osprey + (<i>hali[oe]tus</i>), which even in the agonies of death would not drop + his prey. Many other birds were given over to Mr. Dawson, who worked from + dawn till dusk. Mr. Grant dropped from the trees three snakes, one green + and two slaty-brown. The collection found its way to the British Museum + after the usual extensive plunder, probably at a certain port, where it is + said professional collectors keep customhouse-men in pay. Mr. R. B. Sharp + was kind enough to name the birds, whose shrunken list will be found at + the end of the volume. + </p> + <p> + Cameron, observing for his map, was surprised by the windings of the bed; + we seemed ever within hearing of the sea. Where a holm of rock and bush + splits the course its waters swarm with fish, as shown by the weirs and + the baskets, large and small; some of its cat-fish (<i>siluri</i>) weigh + 10 lbs. Every shoal bred oysters in profusion, young mangroves sprouted + from the submerged mollusk-beds, and the 'forests of the sea' were peopled + with land-crabs. + </p> + <p> + At first the vegetation of the banks was almost wholly of rhizophores, + white and red; the wood of the latter burns like coal, and the bark is + admirable for tanning. In places their long suckers, growing downwards to + the stream, resembled a cordwainer's walk set on end. A bush of + yellow-flowered hibiscus clothes the banks that are less level; and, + higher still, grows a tall and beautiful mimosa with feathery web and + pendent pods of brightest green and yellow. Then came the brabs and palms, + fan-, cocoa-, oil-, and bamboo-, with their trunks turned to nurseries of + epiphytes and air-plants. The parasites are clematis and a host with hard + botanical names. + </p> + <p> + Towards evening, as the stream narrowed, the spectacle was imposing. The + avenues and trees stood up like walls, but living walls; and in places + their billowy bulges seemed about to burst upon us like Cape-rollers. + Every contrast was there of light and dark, short and tall, thick and + thin; of age and death with lusty youth clinging around it; of the cocoa's + drooping frond and the aspiring arm of bombax, the silk-cotton-tree, which + rains brown gossamer when the wind blows; of the sloth-tree with its + topping tuft, and the tangled mantle of the calamus or rattan, a palm like + a bamboo-cane. The bristly pod of the dolichos (<i>pruriens</i>) hangs by + the side of the leguminosć, from whose flattened, chestnut-coloured seeds + snuff-boxes are made further east. It was also a <i>floresta florida</i>, + whose giants are decked with the tender little blossoms of the shrub, and + where the bright bracts and yellow greens of this year's growth light up + the sombre verdure of an older date. The type of this growth is the red + camwood-tree, with its white flower of the sweetest savour. Imagine an + English elm studded with pinks or daisies, gardenias or hyacinths. There + is nothing more picturesque than the shiftings and changes of aspect upon + these African streams, which at first seem so monotonous. After dawn the + smoking water, feeling tepid to the hand and warmer than the atmosphere, + veils the lower levels and makes the forest look as if based on air. Noon + brings out every variety of distance with startling distinctness, and + night, especially moonlit night, blurs with its mists long tracts of + forest, rains silver over the ridges, and leaves the hollows in the + blackest shade. Seen from above, the sea of trees looks like green water + raised to waves by the wind, and the rustling in the breeze mimics the + sound of distant surf. + </p> + <p> + A catamaran of four cork-trees, a cranky canoe, the landing-place of a + bush-road, a banana-plantation, and a dwarf clearing, where sat a family + boiling down palm-nuts for oil, proved that here and there the lowland did + not lack lowlanders. The people stared at us without surprise, although + this was only the fourth time they had seen a surf-boat. The river-bed, + grid-ironed with rocky reefs, showed us twenty-two turns in a few miles; + some were horseshoe-bends, sweeping clean round to the south, and one + described a curve of 170ş. After slow and interrupted paddling for an hour + and a half, at 6 P.M., when night neared, we halted at the village of + Esubeyah, or 'Water-made;' [Footnote: The radical of water is 'su,' + curiously corresponding with Turkish and with that oldest of the Turkish + tongues, Chinese.] and my companion made sure of his distances by a + latitudinal observation of Canopus. + </p> + <p> + Next morning we had 'English tea' for the first and last time in West + Africa; usually we preferred the Russian form, drunk in a tumbler with a + slice of lime that sinks or of lemon that floats. Mr. Gillett had given us + a bottle of 'Romanshorn' from the Swiss farm, an admirable preparation + which also yields fresh butter. The price is high, 1<i>s</i>. 6<i>d</i>. a + bottle, or, for the case of forty-eight imperial pints, 72<i>s</i>.; this, + however, is the Coast, not the cost figure. For invalids, who are + nauseated by the sickly, over-sugared stuff popularly called 'tin-juice,' + and who feel life put in them by rum and milk, it is an invaluable + comfort. + </p> + <p> + We left Esubeyah in the 'lizard's sun' at 7 A.M., and found the river + changed for the worse. The freshets had uptorn from the banks the tallest + trees, which in places formed a timber-floor; and the surf-boat gallantly + charged, till she leaked, the huge trunks, over which she had often to be + lifted. Nothing would be easier than to clear away these obstacles; a few + pounds of gun-cotton would remove snags and sawyers, and dredging by boats + would do the rest. Then Prince's River would become an excellent highway. + </p> + <p> + An hour and a half's slow paddling placed us at the landing-place of Bekaí + (a village in general), the usual hole in the bush. Here navigation ends + in the dry season. We walked to and through the mean little settlement, + and established ourselves at Anima-kru, [Footnote: The English 'croom' is + a corruption of <i>kru-mu</i> or <i>krum</i>, 'in the village.' Properly + speaking 'kru' and 'man' are the town, or common centre of many <i>akura</i> + (plantation-hamlets), in which the owners keep their families and <i>familić</i>.] + a mile from the landing-place on the Yenna, or Prince's River. It faces a + splendidly wooded mound upon the right or opposite bank. Mrá Kwámi, the + headman, received us hospitably, cleared a house, and offered us the usual + palm-wine and snuff: the powder, composed of tobacco, ginger, and cloves, + is boxed in a round wild fruit. + </p> + <p> + The village contained only two men; the rest were drinking, at Prince's + town, the proceeds of a puncheon of palm-oil. The plantations still showed + fruits and flowers probably left by the Portuguese—wild oranges, + mangoes, limes, pine-apples, and the 'four o'clock,' a kind of 'marvel of + Peru,' supposed to open at that hour. The houses, <i>crépi</i> or parget + below and bamboo above, are mere band-boxes raised from the ground; the + smaller perfectly imitated poultry-crates. All appeared unusually neat and + clean, with ornamental sheets of clam-shells trodden into the earth before + the thresholds. 'Fetish' was abundant, and so was that worst of all + plagues the sand-fly. + </p> + <p> + After breakfasting we set out north over a sandy level, clearly reclaimed + from the sea, and in a few minutes struck the true coast. Here begins the + St. John mining-ground, conceded for prospecting to Messieurs Gillett and + Selby. A fair path runs up hillocks of red-yellow clay, metalled with + rounded quartz and ironstone-gravel, roped with roots and barred with + trees; their greatest elevation may have been 120 feet. Two parallel + ridges, trending north-north-east, are bisected by torrents pouring + westward to the river: now dry, they have rolled down huge boulders in + their frequent floods. These 'hard-heads,' which try the hammer, show a + revetment of cellular iron upon a solid core of greenstone and bluish + trap. Some fragments not a little resembled the clay-slates of the + Brazilian gold-mines. Such was the concession which we named Săo Joăo do + Principe. + </p> + <p> + Presently the chief, Mrá Kwámi, announced to us that we had reached the + northern boundary-line of the estate. He now would have left us, as it is + not customary, when gold is in question, for one head-man to enter + another's country. We succeeded, however, in persuading him to show us the + other side of the river. A short walk up and down hill led to the ford of + the 'Yenna,' the native name, probably a corruption of 'St. John.' It lies + a little above the dyke where the stream breaks into a dwarf fall, and + below the crossing where a ferry formerly plied. We now found a regular + river, no longer a lagoon-stream; the clear water, most unlike the + matter-suspending and bitumen-coloured fluid of the lower bed, was + beautified by lilies with long leaves and broad flowers of virgin white. + </p> + <p> + We rode the Kruboys pick-a-back across the broken reef through which the + stream bursts and brawls, and walked a few paces up the left bank to the + Kumasi [Footnote: The Ashantis translate the word 'under the Kum-tree;' + the Fantis make it mean 'slay all.'] village. It had been lately deserted; + but we found there Kwáko Benta, headman of Ajámera, who had spent a week + in forcing the deserters to rejoin the corps. He was the reverse of + cordial, probably wishing at once to prove importance and to give our + guide the cold shoulder: we persuaded him, however, to show us the Muku + concession, granted to Messieurs Lintott and Spink. + </p> + <p> + The ground which fronts the reef-ford reflects that of the left bank, and + is pitted with diggings, large and small. In a dry torrent-bed, running + north-south, was an oblong shaft, a native copy of European work, four + feet by six, and timbered in the usual negro way. Its further bank was a + high and steep slope of yellow clay with a midway step, containing another + and a similar shaft: to the north and west were many other signs of + exploitation. The rich-looking quartz of the lode is white and sugary, + with black streaks and veins: its strike is nearly meridional, between + north 20ş and 25ş east, and the dip 40ş-45ş east. A glance shows that <i>Fluthwerk</i> + and 'hydraulicking' would easily wash down the whole alluvial and + auriferous formation to the floor of grey granite which has supplied the + huge 'cankey-stones' [Footnote: This proto-historic implement, also called + a 'saddle-quern,' is here made out of a thick slab of granite slightly + concave and artificially roughened. The muller, or mealing-stone, is a + large, heavy, and oval rolling-pin used with the normal rocking and + grinding motion. These rollers are also used for crushing ore, and + correspond with the stone <i>polissoirs</i> of ancient date.] littering + the village. Cameron, who had before visited the site, and had remarked + how vigorously the placer-gravels had been attacked by the natives, would + 'hydraulick' by means of the St. John's River. This might also be done by + damming up and tapping the adjacent bottom. And, if routine work be + wanted, it would cost little to construct upon the topmost crest a large + reservoir with channels to conduct the rains, and thus secure a fair fall + for the water. + </p> + <p> + We slept once more at Anima-kru; and here Cameron made sure of his + position by Jupiter and Procyon, and by his valuable watch-chronometer, + the gift of his brother-officers: it worked peculiarly well. The St. + John's mine lies in north lat. 4ş 49' 44", and in west long. (G.) 2ş 6' + 44". While the owners would place it seven miles from the sea, it is + distant only 2.2 from 'old Fort Brandenburg.' Early next morning we packed + and prepared for return, the chief Mrá Kwámi insisting upon escorting us. + And now the difference of travel in Africa and England struck me forcibly. + Fancy a band of negro explorers marching uninvited through the Squire's + manor, strewing his lawn and tennis-ground with all manner of rubbish; + housing their belongings in his dining- and drawing- and best bed-rooms, + which are at once vacated by his wife and family; turning his cook out of + his or her kitchen; calling for the keys of his dairy and poultry-yard, + hot-houses, and cellar; and rummaging the whole mansion for curios and + heirlooms interesting to the negro anthropologist. Fancy also their + bidding him to be ready next morning for sporting and collecting purposes, + with all his pet servants, his steward and his head-gardener, his + stud-groom and his gamekeeper; and allowing, by way of condescension, Mr. + Squire to carry their spears, bows, and arrows; bitterly deriding his + weapons the while, as they proceed to whip his trout-stream, to pluck his + pet plants, to shoot his pheasants, and to kill specimens of his rarest + birds for exhibition in Africa. Fancy their enquiring curiously about his + superstitions, sitting in his pew, asking for bits of his East window, and + criticising his 'fetish' in general, ending with patting him upon the back + and calling him a 'jolly old cock.' Finally, fancy the Squire greatly + enjoying such treatment, and feeling bitterly hurt unless handled after + this fashion. Paddling down stream, we collected for Kew. But the + hopelessness of the task weighs upon the spirits: a square mile of such + flora would take a week. There is a prodigious variety of vegetation, and + the quantity of edible berries, 'fowl's lard,' 'Ashanti-papaw,' and the + Guinea-peach (<i>Sarcophalus esculentus</i>) would gladden the heart of a + gorilla. Every larger palm-trunk was a fernery; every dead bole was an + orchidry; and huge fungi, two feet broad, fed upon the remains of their + victims. Climbers, chiefly papilionaceous, and llianas, bigger than the + biggest boa-constrictor, coiled and writhed round the great gloomy trees + which rained their darkness below. In the sunlight were pretty jasmines (<i>J. + grande</i>), crotons and lantanas, with marantas, whose broad green + leafage was lined with pink and purple. Deep in shadow lay black miry + sloughs of sickening odour, near which the bed of Father Thames at low + water would be scented with rose-water; and the caverns, formed by the + arching roots of the muddy mangrove, looked haunts fit for crocodile and + behemoth and all manner of unclean, deadly beasts. And there are little + miseries for African collectors. 'Wait-a-bit' thorns tear clothes and + skin. Tree-snakes turn the Kru-boys not pale but the colour of boiled + liver; their 'bowels fail them,' as the natives say. Each tree has its + ant, big or small, black or red; and all sting more or less. We see their + armies marching up the trunks, and the brush of a bough brings down a + little shower. Monstrous mangrove-flies and small brown-coloured 'huri,' + most spiteful biters, and wasps here and there, assail the canoe; and we + are happy if we escape a swarm of the wild bees: their curious, + treacle-like honey is enjoyed by the people. + </p> + <p> + We landed in due time at 'Prinsi,' whose civilised chief had laid out a + clean path, lined with umbrella-figs backed by a bush of self-sown guavas. + A good upper-storied house was found for us, with standing bedsteads, + sofa, table, and chairs. It belonged to one of the <i>penins</i>, or + elders. The chapel, with its three front and five lateral windows, is the + best we have yet seen. The schoolmaster, Mr. Sego, lives in a house hard + by; and the adjacent school, a wattled cottage, echoes to the voices of + some thirty to forty scholars. The town looks prosperous. Building is + easy; oysters and other shells supply lime; the clay dug to the north + makes good adobes, and stone is easily quarried from the old fort. + </p> + <p> + We found Prince's in a state of unusual jollity, drinking the proceeds of + their three puncheons, dancing and playing what Sá Leone calls 'warry.' + [Footnote: A game with counters and holes in the ground or a board + hollowed with cups. The same, called <i>báo</i>, or tables, is found in + East Africa (Zanzibar) and Cameron traced it extending clear across the + Dark Continent.] The bell and the psalm blended curiously with the song + and the palm-clapping that announces negro terpsichore. Of course 'fetish' + was present, in the shape of a woman peculiarly ornamented. Her very black + face was dazzlingly chalked, lines by threes running from hair-roots to + nose-bridge and meeting others drawn across the temples; the orbits of the + eyes were whitened, and thence triple streaks stretched up the nose and + across the cheeks. Hung to the extensive necklace of beads and other + matters were tassels of dry white fibre; her forearms carried yellow + bunches of similar material, and she held a broom of blackened bamboo and + the metal bell familiar to Unyamwezi. Whilst the juniors danced and sang + the elders drank and gambled. + </p> + <p> + After a cool and comfortable night we visited the ruins which Bosman calls + Casteel Groot Frederiksburg tot Pocquesoe (Prince's). Our Hydrographic + Chart has 'old fort Brandenburg,' which is at Cape Threepoints. Others + declare that it was the only good establishment owned by the Elector; and + the best authority, Lieut. Jeekel, terms it G Friedrichsburg (Hollandia). + I may note that 'Prinsi 'Ollandia' is still the native name. These + buildings interest us greatly, because in the coming days of immigration + they will serve for hospitals, stores, and barracoons. Ascending a few + feet of bushy hill, called in books 'Mamfra,' and once evidently an + island, we came upon the eastern flank, three substantial bastions and a + cavalier, with masonry knitted by creepers. We then wound round by the + southern or sea side, and, turning the angle, made the eastern flank. The + gateway, stockade, and belfry shown in Bosman ('Eerste Brief,' 1737) have + disappeared; so also has the slave-court, but the double doorway remains. + The spacious centre, planted with bananas almost wild, would make a grand + garden; the walls are built to stand for ages; and, although the floors of + the upper stories have been torn down, there would be no difficulty in + restoring them. As steps and stairs are absent, it was not possible to + reach the battlements. These are luxuriant with vegetation, of which I + should preserve a portion for shade and coolth. A fine arched cistern now + affords a shelter to bats; and a building which appears to be the chapel + remains on the northern side. Old iron guns still cumber the embrasures + and the ground. + </p> + <p> + Issuing by the northern face, which has been torn down for ashlar, we set + up the photographic stand and took the north-western angle. Here an + enormous fig draws its life from the death of the wall. The morning air in + the shade was delicious, a great contrast with the heavy dampness of Axim; + and the view of the St. John's River west and of Cape Threepoints east was + charming. With usual neglect the photographer had sent out his machine and + dry plates without any means of developing them; we therefore worked + blindly and could not see results. + </p> + <p> + When embarking in Prince's Bay, where the surf was perfectly safe, we were + informed a little too late of a valuable gold-mine called Kokobené. It + lies close behind the village Akitáki, which we had seen during our + morning's walk along the beach leading to Cape Threepoints. The chief, + Eshánchi, promised to forward specimens of the reefs, and did not forget + to keep his promise. The quartz-specimens which were brought to us at + Akankon by Wafápa, or Barnabas, promised excellently, and I authorised Mr. + Grant to buy an exploring right of the Kokobené-Akitáki diggings. Their + position as well as their quality will render them valuable: they will + prove a second Apatim. + </p> + <p> + We returned to Axim on February 19, after a short but very satisfactory + trip which added much to our knowledge of the coast and its ways. It had + also the merit of being economical; we took matters in hand, and + consequently our four days cost us only 2<i>l</i>. 8<i>s</i>. + </p> + <p> + I have spoken much about 'hydraulicking' in this chapter, and I shall now + borrow a few details concerning the operation from Sir William Logan, who, + in his 'Geological Survey of Canada,' quotes Mr. William P. Blake. + Speaking of California, the learned author writes, 'In this method the + force of a jet of water with great pressure is made available both for + excavating and washing the auriferous earth. The water, issuing in a + continuous stream with great force from a large hose-pipe like that of a + fire-engine, is directed against the base of a bank of earth and gravel, + and tears it away. The bank is rapidly undermined, the gravel is loosened, + violently rolled together, and cleansed from any adhering particles of + gold, while the fine clay and the sand are carried off by the water. In + this manner hundreds of tons of earth and gravel may be removed, and all + the gold which they contain liberated and secured with greater ease and + expedition than ten tons could be excavated and washed in the old way. All + the earth and gravel of a deposit is moved, washed, and carried off + through long sluices by the water, leaving the gold behind. Square acres + of earth on the hill-sides may thus be swept away into the hollows without + the aid of a pick or a shovel in excavation. Water performs all the + labour, moving and washing the earth in one operation, while in excavating + by hand the two processes are of necessity entirely distinct. The value of + this method and the yield of gold as compared with the older one can + hardly be estimated. + </p> + <p> + 'The water acts constantly with uniform effect, and can be brought to bear + upon almost any point, where it would be difficult for men to work. It is + especially effective in a region covered by trees, where the tangled roots + would greatly retard the labour of workmen. In such places the stream of + water washes out the earth from below, and tree after tree falls before + the current, any gold which may have adhered to the roots being washed + away. With a pressure of sixty feet and a pipe of from one and a half to + two inches' aperture, over 1,000 bushels of earth can be washed out from a + bank in a day. + </p> + <p> + 'Earth which contains only one-twenty-fifth part of a grain of gold, equal + to one-fifth of a cent in value to the bushel, may be profitably washed by + this method; and any earth or gravel which will pay the expense of washing + in the old way gives enormous profits by the new process. To wash + successfully in this way requires a plentiful supply of water, at an + elevation of from fifty to ninety feet above the bed-rock, [Footnote: This + is by no means necessary. The jet can be thrown from below like the + fireman's hose playing upon a burning house. I shall return to this highly + important subject.] and a rapid slope or descent from the base of the bank + of earth to be washed, so that the waste water will run off through the + sluices, bearing with it gravel, sand, and suspended clay. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + 'In the case of a deposit in North Carolina, where ten men were required + for thirty-five days to dig the earth with pick and shovel and wash it in + sluices, two men with a single jet of water could accomplish the same work + in a week. The great economy of this method is manifest from the fact that + many old deposits in the river-beds, the gravel of which had been already + washed by hand, have again been washed with profit by the hydraulic + method. + </p> + <p> + 'In California the whole art of working the diluvial gold-deposits was + revolutionised by this new method. The auriferous earth lying on hills and + at some distance above the level of the watercourses would in the ordinary + methods be excavated by hand and brought to the water, but by the present + system the water is brought by aqueducts to the gold-deposits, and whole + square miles which were before inaccessible have yielded up their precious + metal. It sometimes happens from the irregular distribution of the gold in + the diluvium in California that the upper portions of a deposit do not + contain gold enough to be washed by the ordinary methods, and would thus + have to be removed at a considerable expense in order to reach the richer + portion below. By the hydraulic method, however, the cost of cutting away + and excavating is so trifling that there is scarcely any bank of earth + which will not pay the expense of washing down in order to reach the rich + deposits of gold beneath.' + </p> + <p> + To conclude. Our collection of plants was sent to the Herbarium, Kew; and, + as the Appendix (II. Part II.) shows, was kindly catalogued by the learned + Professor D. Oliver. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0009" id="link2HCH0009"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XX. — FROM AXIM TO INGOTRO AND AKANKON. + </h2> + <p> + After a long palaver with the three claimants to the Akankon + mining-ground, Kofi Blaychi (Little Blay), Kwáko Jum, and Safahin Sensensé + (the lessor), we left Axim once more (February 24) to inspect the head of + the Ancobra river. At the sleeping-place, Kumprasi, we were visited by Mr. + Cascaden, District-commissioner for Tákwá, a fine-looking man of fifteen + stone, pulled down to twelve by dysentery. He was speedily followed to + England by his <i>remplaçant</i>, Dr. Duke. + </p> + <p> + Next morning, when the thick white fog, which made the smoking river + resemble Father Rhine in autumn, had been licked up by fiery rays, we + embarked, together with Chief Apó, of Asánta, the honest old owner of the + 'Ingotro concession.' Our conveyance was the <i>Effuenta</i>, a + steam-launch attached to the mine of that name, bought second-hand, and a + fine specimen of what launches ought <i>not</i> to be. Built by Messieurs + Dickenson, of Birkenhead, she is much too small (36 feet by 8) for a river + which, even in the depth of the dries, averages two fathoms, and rarely + runs less than ten feet. The engines are over far from the boiler, and the + long raking stern swells out into a big belly worthy of a manatee or a + Dutch hoy. Her boiler had been replaced with the usual inconsequence. She + had been repaired by an 'intelligent artisan,' Mr. Emery; but, as he was + allowed no tools and no time, he contented himself with reporting her in + good working order. Consequently after every half-hour we had to unscrew + the safety-valve, let off steam, and fill the boiler with a funnel and a + tin pot. Pleasant three hours under a thin board-awning, in a broiling + sun, off a poisonous mangrove-swamp! Presently she had to be started by + the surf-boat lashed to one side, and a large canoe to the other. Finally, + after a last breakdown, we saw steam-launch <i>Effuenta</i> lying high and + dry upon the beach at Sánmá. + </p> + <p> + We had nothing to complain of the engineer, Mr. William George, a Sá + Leonite, and of the helmsman, Kwámina Ekum, a Gold Coast man. Both did + their best with the heavily laden trio of boats. Cameron established + himself—compass, log, lead, and dredge—in the steamer stern. + His admirable geographical labours in 'Crossing Africa' are, after a few + years of a swift-moving age, lapsing Lethe-wards; and + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + To <i>have</i> done is to hang + Quite out of fashion, like a rusty nail + In monumental mockery. +</pre> + <p> + Now he has another opportunity of doing valuable service, none of these + positions having been established by observations, and of showing + travellers how topography should be worked. He has before him for + correction the Hydrographic chart, which pretends to nothing within the + Coast, and the 'River Ankobra and Tarquah(!) Gold Mines,' printed in 1878 + by Captain Louis Wyatt, then District-commissioner for Axim. This first + attempt at a regular survey is meritorious for an amateur; but of course + it cannot compare with the produce of a scientific and experienced naval + surveyor. We had Lieut. Jeekel, before alluded to, but his scale, + 1:250,000, is too small for details. I did not see, till long after our + return from this excursion, the then unfinished map by M. Paulus Dahse, a + veteran West-Coaster, who has spent years in travelling through the + interior. My fellow-voyager also was the first to show me the various + cartes printed and published by the late M. Bonnat. [Footnote: <i>Carte + des Concessions de 'The African Gold Coast Company</i>,' par M. J. Bonnat. + Paris, August 1879. Beginning south at Tumento, it does not show the + southern fork of the Bonsá or Abonsá River, which falls into the Ancobra's + left bank; and it ends a little north of Asseman, the cemetery of the + 'kings.' M. Bonnat had already printed in 1877 a <i>Chart of the River + Ankobra</i>, extending north as far as the 'Gold Mines of Aodoua.'] + </p> + <p> + The Ancobra is an enlarged copy of the Yenna or Prince's River. There are + the same swampy borders and 'impenetrable forests,' as Captain Wyatt + entitles them; while the mangrove never quite disappears from this true + lagoon-stream. The monotonous fringe of rhizophores is broken, about two + miles from the mouth, by bamboo-palms and hibiscus-beds, then by the + bombax, the rubber-vine, the locust-tree (<i>inga</i>), and the + banana-plantation. The mounds and hillocks on either side, beginning with + the Akromasi and Kabudwe mounds, near the mouth, are evidently parts of an + ancient archipelago built by the mangrove and silted up to mainland. The + long and curious reaches are shown in my companion's map, and I shall + notice only those details which claim something of general interest. + </p> + <p> + After about eight miles' steaming up a huge loop to the west, and a bend + easterly, we passed the Kwábina Bosom, or Fetish-Rocks, two wall-like + blocks, one mangrove-grown and the other comparatively bare. Contrary to + native usage, we chose the fair way between the latter and the left bank, + for which innovation, said our escort, we shall surely suffer. + </p> + <p> + Beyond the Fetish-Rocks the right bank shows a cleared mound ready for + immediate planting: this concession once belonged to Dr. Ross, of Axim. + Opposite it the mining-ground has been leased for prospecting by Messieurs + Gillett and Selby. The notable feature of the river is now the + prawn-basket, a long cone closed at the blunt apex: the Ancobra is a + 'Camarones,' supplying a first-rate article for curries. This is the work + of the uninteresting little villages, scatters of mere crates built in + holes worn in the bush; all disappear during the floods, and are rebuilt + in the dry season for growing rice and tapping palm-trees. Besides a few + humans they contain nothing save lean dogs and etiolated poultry; cattle, + sheep, and even pigs are wholly unknown. + </p> + <p> + In the afternoon we pushed through a wild thunderstorm of furious tropical + rain, which pitted the river-face like musket-balls. It arose in the + south; but throughout the Ancobra valley wet weather apparently comes from + all directions. Chief Apó gravely ascribed it to our taking the wrong side + of the Fetish-Rocks. I have heard, even in civilised lands, sillier + post-hoc-ergň-propter-hocs. + </p> + <p> + There were two landing-places for the large Ingotro concession, both on + the right bank. The lower leads, they say, over dry land, but the way is + long and hilly. That up stream is peculiarly foul, and to us it was made + fouler by the pelting shower. At low water, in the dry season, the little + Nánwá creek, subtending the higher ground on the north, becomes too + shallow for the smallest dug-out; and we had to wade or to be carried over + an expanse of fetid and poisonous mangrove-mud festering in the sun, and + promising a luxuriant growth of ague and fever. The first rise of sandy + yellow loam showed the normal Gold Coast metalling of iron-stone and + quartz-gravel, thinly spread with water-rounded pebbles. Then the path, + very badly laid out, merged into a second foul morass, whose depths were + crossed by the rudest of bridges, single and double trunks of felled or + fallen trees. Nothing easier than to corduroy this <i>mauvais pas</i>. + </p> + <p> + A second rise showed a fine reef of white and blue quartz, which runs + right through the settlement to the banks of the Nánwá stream. A quarter + of an hour's walk from the landing-place placed us in the Nánwá village, + now popularly known as Walker-Kru. It consists of a few mean little + hovels, the usual cage-work, huddled together in most unpicturesque + confusion. Prick-eared curs, ducks, and fowls compose the bestial + habitants, to which must be added the regiments of rats (and ne'er a cat) + which infest all these places. There were no mosquitoes, but the sand-fly + bit viciously on mornings and evenings between the dark and sunlit hours, + confining one to the dim cage and putting a veto upon the pleasant lounge + or seat in the cool open. We found lodgings in the guest-hut of the + headman, Kwáko Juma, like most of his brethren, a civil man and a greedy. + But the Krumen, boatmen and carriers, were also lodged in the little + settlement, and these people always make night hideous with their songs + and squabbles, their howling voices, and hyćna-like bursts of laughter. It + is very difficult to 'love one's neighbour as oneself' when he appears in + this form under these circumstances. + </p> + <p> + By times next morning we woke too soon the villagers, who enjoy long talks + by night and deep slumbers in early day. They appear much inclined to + slumber again. But both Apó of Asánta and Juma of Nánwá were exceedingly + anxious to know when mining-works would begin, and, that failing, to + secure as much 'dash' as possible. + </p> + <p> + The Ingotro concession, the largest we have yet seen, measures 3,000 + fathoms square, the measurements being taken from the central shaft. + Assuming every thousand fathoms roughly to represent a geographical mile, + the area would be of nine square miles. This will evidently admit of being + divided and sub-divided into half a dozen or more estates. As yet little + of its wealth has been explored, chiefly owing to the dense growth of + forest. As Mr. Walker remarks, 'Although timber is a great desideratum on + a mining-estate, the thick woods have the disadvantage of concealing many + rich deposits of gold, and I have very little doubt that the diminution of + the population, and the consequent overgrowth of the bush or jungle, has + much to do with the great falling off in the production and export of gold + from this region.' + </p> + <p> + The emancipation of slaves and 'pawns' would have in Africa no other + effect. Free men will not work, and 'bush,' unless kept down, will grow + with terrible ferocity. + </p> + <p> + When Indian file was duly formed, we descended the Nánwá hillock, which + takes its name from the stream. Here the little rivulet, deeply encased, + bore a fine growth of snowy water-lilies. It had been newly bridged with + corduroy. The next passage boasted tree-trunks, and after that all was + leaping. The Nánwá must rise near the trial-shaft, which we are about to + visit, and it snakes through the property in all directions with a general + rhumb from west-north-west to east-south-east. At this season there is + little or no flow, and the bed is mostly a string of detached pools, where + gold has been washed and will be washed again. Thus the facilities for + 'hydraulicking' are superior, and the number of shallow native pits at + once suggests the properest process. + </p> + <p> + We then struck across the heavily timbered country, which is the wildest + state of 'bushiness.' A few paces led to 'King's Croom,' a deserted + mining-village in a dwarf clearing rapidly overgrowing with the Brazilian + <i>Catinga</i>. Hereabouts we saw nothing save 'hungry quartz.' Then we + struck across three several ridges, whose slopes were notably easier on + the eastern, and more abrupt on the western side. The people had sunk + several pits in places likely to yield 'kindly quartz,' and they had made + no mistakes as to the overlay of the lode, its foot-wall or its + hanging-wall. + </p> + <p> + Cameron presently made an offset to the north, and, cutting his road, + walked ten minutes up the tail of Tuáko Hill, at whose southern base lies + the Nánwá bed. Here, guided by Mr. Grant, who knew the place well, he + found a native shaft thirty feet deep and a lode of disintegrated quartz + in red or yellow ferruginous clay, the surface looking as rich as the + stone it overlies. + </p> + <p> + A few paces further and a third drop led us again to the swampy valley of + the Nánwá, here flowing south. It is bounded by two rises, tree-grown from + foot to head. That on the left bank is the Tuáko, the husband, along whose + skirt we have been walking; the other, on the opposite side, is Jama, the + wife. From their conjugal visits the gold is born. Some attempts had been + made to blast a rock in the skirt of Jama's garment; but all had notably + failed. The reeking, unwholesome bottom showed extensive traces of digging + and washing. + </p> + <p> + Following the water, we came to the second little mining-village, also + deserted. The name 'Ingotro' means a broad-leaved liliaceous plant, the <i>wura-haban</i> + (water-leaf) of the Fantis, used for thatching when palm-fronds are not + found. From this place an old bush-path once led directly to the lands we + call 'Izrah,' but it has long been closed by native squabbles. A few yards + further placed us in an exceedingly rich bottom, honeycombed by native + workers. Hard by it appeared the central shaft, lying between two hills, + the Ingotro-buká and the Nánwá-buká, which define the course of the + rivulet. The distance from Nánwá village may have been three miles, but we + had spent more than three hours in making collections. + </p> + <p> + Amongst the insects was the silk-spider, a large arachnid of + sulphur-yellow tint, with three black transverse bars. It weaves no web, + but spins a thread of the strongest texture and the richest golden hue. I + had sent from Fernando Po several pounds of this fine silk, intending to + experiment upon it in a veil or lace shawl; and afterwards I learned that + the Empress Eugénie had a dress made of it, which cost a fabulous number + of francs. Bacon and other old writers talk of 'spider's silk' like + gathering moonbeams. [Footnote: The <i>Ananse</i> or <i>Agya ananse</i> + (father spider), as the Oji-speaking peoples call the insect, is with them + either a creator of man (corresponding so far with the scarabeus in the + Nile valley) or a representative of the evil principle. Bosman (Letter + xvii.), describing a 'great hideous hairy species,' says, 'The negroes + call this spider <i>ananse</i>, and believe that the first men were made + by that creature; and, notwithstanding some of them by conversation with + the Europeans are better informed, there are yet a great number that + remain of that opinion, out of which folly they are not to be reasoned.' + The people have a number of fables called <i>Anansesem</i>, such as <i>Spider + and Spiderson and the Three Ghosts</i>; in these spider-stories the + insect, like the fox with us, is the most intelligent of animals (the late + Rev. J. Zimmermann's <i>Akra or Gă Grammar</i>, Stuttgart, 1858). It is + represented as speaking through the nose like the local 'bogy,' and its + hobbling gait is imitated by the story-teller. Another superstition is + that the Anánu (the Akra form of the word) injures children sleeping in + the same room with it. At Fernando Po I found another valuable spider + which preys upon cockroaches. When a cruiser was particularly afflicted by + the <i>blatta</i>, a couple of these insects would effectually clear + chests and drawers in a few days. There are other species, <i>Entekuma</i>, + &c.] + </p> + <p> + The upper shaft had been sunk, as it should be, in the eastern flank of + the hill, which faces north 71ş east, and which runs north 3ş west (both + true). The surface and subsoil are the usual sandy loam scattered with + gravel of quartz and ironstone, and the spoil-banks showed blue and white + quartz. The clay-slate, dark, soft, and laminated, appeared everywhere. + Lower down, on the same slope, Mr. Grant had dug a second shaft, somewhat + smaller than the upper: both were full of rain-water. Mr. Walker mentions + a large native pit near the centre, whence rich stone had been taken. He + picked up from the refuse several pieces of quartz showing free gold, + which gave, when assayed, 2.6 oz. gold and 0.3 oz. silver per ton. This + was from a depth of only ten feet. His own trial-shaft, when he left the + Coast, was not more than three feet deep; but every sample showed traces + of gold, and an Australian miner of thirty years' experience declared that + the 'stuff' promised a rich yield below. Like ourselves, he found the + whole country 'impregnated with gold.' On the path within fifty yards of + the Nánwá village we knocked off some pieces of quartz that displayed the + precious ore to the naked eye. + </p> + <p> + The slope in which the two shafts had been sunk fell into a depression + between the hills which indicated the richest surface-diggings. Here a + number of detached sinkings had been run together by the recent rains into + a long miry pool. Mr. Walker also speaks of a 'very large number of + shallow native pits.' No one could see this exceedingly rich 'gulch' + without determining that it should be washed upon the largest scale. It + will be time to sink shafts and make deep diggings here when sluicing and + surfacing shall have done their work. + </p> + <p> + From Ingotro we marched back to Nánwá and took leave of Chief Apó; his + parting words were a request that work might be begun as soon as possible, + and that at any rate his concession should be properly marked out. The + limitation must not be neglected, but the exploitation of the diggings is + another affair. The ground is exceptionally rich in gold, and it offers + every facility for extracting the metal. But the climate of the lowlands + presents difficulties. In so large an area of broken ground, however, + there are eminences that command a prospect of the sea and which are + within the influence of the sea-breeze. The conditions will, doubtless, + improve when the adjacent mining-grounds, Inyoko and Izrah, shall have + been opened and the country cleared and ventilated. In the meantime light + works and hydraulicking on an extensive scale might be begun at once, + especially during the rainy season, under seasoned and acclimatised + overseers. An amelioration must be the result, and even before the rich + surface has been washed it will be possible to set up heavy machinery for + deep working, shafting, and tunnelling. + </p> + <p> + Embarking about 3 P.M. on board <i>Effuenta</i>, we steamed up the + Ancobra, which here looks more like a river and less like a lagoon. The + settlements become more important, the first being Nfia-kru, or the + 'dog-village.' There were many influents, which showed like dark breaches + in the rampart of verdure. Such was the Ahema (Huma), a creek that breaks + the left bank. This name may become memorable. Upon its upper course + Messieurs Gillett and Selby have a small mining concession, and in its + golden gravels Mr. O. Pegler, Associate of the School of Mines, found a + crystal which he strongly suspected to be a diamond. It was taken to Axim, + where its glass-cutting properties were proved. Unfortunately during one + of these trials the setting gave way, and the stone fell into a heap of + rubbish, where it could not be found. Many have suspected that these + regions will prove diamantiferous; and it is reported that an experienced + French mineralogist, who has visited the South African diggings, landed at + Assini and proposed to canoe up the Tando River to the Tákwá mines, + prospecting in search of his specialty. + </p> + <p> + A portentous cloud ahead growled its thunder and discharged thin rain, + while the westing sun shone clear and bright. In Dahome the combination + suggests the ghosts of Kutomen going to market, [Footnote: The Akra-men + make Sisaman, their Kutomen, Scheol or Hades, a town on one of the Volta + holms or somewhere beyond. The Gold Coast has three species of departed + 'spirits' (<i>asamanfo</i>)—the shades of men who fell in fight or + by accident (as by a tree-fall); common spirits, and lingering spirits, so + called because they do not enter Shade-land, but hover about man's + dwellings. The slain never associate with the commonalty; they walk about + rubbed with white clay and clad in white; nor are they afraid of, whereas + the others fly from, and are unwilling to be seen by, the living. 'It is + said in the Dead-land below the earth there are kings as well as slaves. + If you have been long sick in this world you will recover health there + after three years, but one killed in battle or by accident will be well in + a month or so. It is said that Dead-land is below (earth); others declare + it is above (the sky). About this there is no certainty. Where one is + taken to when he dies there his spirit is; when they die and take you to + the spirits' grove, then your spirit is in the grove. The town (or land) + of the departed spirits is not in the grove, but in the earth; it is a + large town, and going there a mountain has to be climbed. The way of one + who died a natural death is dark in heaven; but if one who died in battle + or by accident take that way, some of the white clay with which he is + rubbed falls down; therefore his way (<i>via lactea</i>) appears white. In + the spirits' grove the departed spirits do not stay always; only on + certain days they assemble there for eating, drinking, and playing.' Yet + these 'spiritualists' (<i>with</i> the spirits) have scant pleasure in + contemplating the future. Their proverb is, 'A corner in the world of + matter is better than a world of spirits,'—Page 407, <i>Dictionary + of the Asante and Fante Languages</i>, by Rev. J. G. Christaller.] in + Fanti-land the hunchback woman becoming a mother, and in England his + Satanic Majesty beating his wife. Off the Eketekki village we saw, for the + first time, bad snags, which will require removal. About sunset the + Aka-kru settlement, the largest yet noted, appeared on the left bank. Here + the Akankon Mining Company has a native house of wattle and dab, looking + somewhat better than the normal mud-cabin. It had been unceremoniously + occupied by natives, who roared their laughter when ordered to turn out. + From Aka-kru there is a direct line to the Effuenta, within an hour's walk + of the Tákwá mine; the four stages can be covered in twenty hours. + [Footnote: Mr. Gillett, who had lately passed over it, gave me these notes + on the line. No. 1 stage from Aka-kru crosses virgin land, the property of + the 'King' of Axim, to Autobrun (three hours); No. 2 leads over fine level + ground to Dompé (nine hours slow); No. 3 to Abrafu, on the Abonsá River, + one march south of the Abonsá station (three hours); No. 4 to the Effuenta + mine (five hours).] + </p> + <p> + At 6.30 P.M. we saw, a little above Aka-kru, and also on the left bank, + Jyachabo, or 'Silver-' (Jyácho) 'stone.' Of this settlement Captain Wyatt + notes, 'It is said that a silver-mine was formerly worked here by the + Dutch and Portuguese.' Hard by the north of it lie the ruins of the old + Hollanders' fort, St. John, which the natives have corrupted to + 'Senchorsu;' the people, however, did not seem to know their whereabouts. + We determined to push on to Akankon, despite the ugly prospect of a dark + walk through the wet bush, and of deferring the survey to another time. + Suddenly we saw on the right bank the black silhouette of a house, + standing high and lone in its clearing, and we made fast to a good + landing-place, an inclined plane of corduroy. It was an unexpected + pleasure; both had been put up after Cameron left the mine by the native + caretaker, Mr. Morris. + </p> + <p> + We slept soundly through a cool and pleasant night at 'Riverside House.' + The large building of palm-fronds, with a roof like the lid of a + lunch-basket, contains three rooms, and will be provided with outhouses. + Inside and outside it is whitewashed above and blackwashed below. The + coal-tar was suggested by my nautical companion; and, for the first time + on the Ancobra River, we exchanged the <i>bouquet d'Afrique</i> for the + smell of Europe. The big crate stands high upon the right bank, here + rising about twenty feet, and affording a pleasant prospect of breezy + brown stream deeply encased in bright green forest. The draught caused by + flowing water keeps the clearing clean of sand-flies, the pest of the + inner settlements, and European employés will find the place healthy. The + up-sloping ground behind the house could be laid out in a pottage-garden; + and, as Bahama-grass grows fast, there will be no difficulty about + disposing of the under-growth. + </p> + <p> + Next morning (February 27) we were joined by Mr. Morris, who told the long + tale of his grievances. He had been in charge of ten men for five months, + during which he had not received a farthing of pay. Consequently his gang + had struck work. Thus chatting we followed the cleared path leading up the + right bank of the little Akankon creek: now dry, it is navigable for + canoes during the rains, and falls into the Ancobra under a good corduroy + bridge near the landing-ramp. A line of posts showed the levels which had + been carefully marked by Cameron. It was a pleasure to see the bed; it had + been scraped in many places by the gold-washer, and it promises an ample + harvest when properly worked. We left on the left hand Safahin Sensensé's + village, a cluster of huts surrounded by bananas; we crossed the shallow + head of the creek, all a swamp during the rains; we walked up a dwarf + slope, and after half an hour we found ourselves at 'Granton.' + </p> + <p> + The position of Granton is not happily chosen. Though the hill-side faces + south it is beyond reach of the sea-breeze; the damp and wooded depression + breeds swarms of sand-flies, and being only forty feet above the river, it + is reeking hot. The thermometer about noon never showed less than 92ş + (F.), and often rose to 96ş; in the Rains it falls to 72ş, and the nights + are cold with damp. It will be a question which season will here prove the + safest for working. On the coast I should say the Rains; in the higher + lands about the Effuenta mine I am told that the Dries must be preferred. + </p> + <p> + Granton is, or was, composed of eight tenements disposed to form a hollow + square. Five of them are native cages of frond and thatch, which I should + have preferred on a second visit. The rest are planks brought from Europe, + good carpentry-work, and raised a little off the ground. Unfortunately the + bulkheads are close above, instead of being latticed for draught. The + items are two boxes—sleeping-room and store-room—with a larger + lodging of four rooms which sadly wants a flying-roof. The offices are + kept in good order by the penniless caretaker, who has been left entirely + without supplies, and who is obliged to borrow our ink-bottles. + </p> + <p> + We lost no time in visiting the 'Akankon' reef, a word appropriately + meaning 'abandoned' or 'left alone.' The people, however, understand it in + the sense that, when a miner has taken possession of the ground, and has + shown a right to it, his fellows leave him to work and betake themselves + elsewhere. Immediately behind the huts we came upon a broad streak + cochineal-red, except where tarnished by oxygen, where it looked + superficially like ochre. The strike ran parallel with the quartz-reef, + north 5ş east (true). Cameron had broken some of the stone into chips, + subjected it to the blow-pipe, and obtained bright globules of + quicksilver. Veins of sulphide of mercury, cinnabar, or vermilion have + been found in other parts of the Protectorate: we suspected their presence + at Apatim, and collected specimens, still to be assayed. The natives have + an idea that when 'the gold turns white' it is uncanny to work the place; + moreover, silver is always removed from the person when miners approach + the gold-diggings. I should explain the phenomenon by the presence of + mercury. + </p> + <p> + A good road, with side-drains, running about half a mile to the north, has + been kept open by the care-taker. To its right is a manner of hillock, + evidently an old plantation, in some places replanted. From the top a view + to the west shows three several ridges, the Akankon proper, Ijimunbukai, + and Agunah, blue in the distance. Northwards the Akankon hog's-back is + seen sweeping riverwards from north to north-east, rising to the hill + Akankon-bukah. Here Mr. Amondsen, a Danish sailor long employed in + Messieurs Swanzy's local sailing craft, and lately sent out by the + Company, informed me that he proposed to transfer the quarters for + European employés. He has, however, I am told, changed his mind and built + upon 'Plantation Hillock.' On the left or western side of the road the + Akankon ridge is subtended by a hollow, the valley of a streamlet in rainy + weather. This supply, which can easily be made perennial, will greatly + facilitate washing. The highway ended in a depression, where stood the + deserted 'Krumen's quarters.' The only sign of work was a peculiar + cross-cut made by Mr. Cornish, C.E., one of the engineers. + </p> + <p> + From this point, turning abruptly from north to west, we took the steep + narrow path which climbs the Akankon ridge, rising 78 feet above the + river. A few paces led us to the prospecting shaft, a native pit squared + and timbered by Mr. Cornish. He was assisted by Mr. James B. Ross, + 'practical miner, working manager, and mine-owner for the last twenty + years in Queensland, Australia.' He thus describes himself in the very + able report which he sent to his company; and I am glad to hear that he + has returned to the Gold Coast. The shaft, 40 feet from 'the outcrop,' and + 50 from the hill-base, is bottomed at the depth of 52 feet. Unfortunately + it is only box-timbered, and much of the woodwork was shaken down by the + blasts. The sinking through stiff clay, stained with iron, cobalt, + manganese, and cinnabar, was reported easy. But where the hanging and foot + walls should have been, fragments of clay, iron, and mica-slate showed + that the former lie still deeper. My companion proposed a descent into the + shaft by bucket and windlass. I declined, greatly distrusting such + deserted pits, especially in this region, where they appear unusually + liable to foul. Two days afterwards a Kruboy went down and was brought to + grass almost insensible from the choke-damp; his hands clenched the rope + so tightly that their grip was hard to loose. + </p> + <p> + We then mounted to 'the outcrop' near the ridge-summit, 100 yards + north-north-east. This reef-crest is a tongue of quartz and quartzite + veining grey granite: it was found dug out and cleared all round by the + people. Mr. Cornish had contented himself with splitting off a fragment by + a shot or two. + </p> + <p> + When the whole hill shall have been properly washed, the contained reefs + will present this wall-like appearance. The dimensions are ten feet long + by the same height and half that thickness, and the slope shows an angle + of 40ş. We passed onwards to the top of the ridge, winding among the pits + and round holes sunk by the native miners in order to work the casing of + the reef. One of these, carefully measured, showed 82 feet. About sixty + yards to the north-north-east we reached the crest of what Mr. Ross calls + 'Ponsonby Hill.' He notices that the strike of the quartz, which shows + visible gold, is from north-north-east to south-south-west, and its + underlie to the south-east is at the ratio of one inch in twelve. Cameron + found that near the head of the descent, 120 feet to the plain below, + three, and perhaps four lodes meet. The true bed, with a measured + thickness of 157 feet, strikes north 22ş east, the western 355ş, and the + eastern north 37ş east (true). All radiate from one point, a knot which + gives 'great expectations.' The natives have opened large man-holes in + search of loose gold, and here, tradition says, many nuggets have been + found. A greater number will come to light when the miners shall dig the + 'blind creek' to the east, and when the roots of the secular trees + crowning the summit shall be laid bare by the hose. I would wash down and + sluice the whole of the Akankon ridge. + </p> + <p> + Next day we proceeded to inspect two other reefs lying to the south-west + and to the south-east. The first, Asan-kumá(?), lies a few yards from + Granton, on the left of the path leading to our landing-place. The ground + was covered with deep bush, and painfully infested with the <i>Nkran</i>, + or <i>enkran</i>, [Footnote: <i>Anglicč</i> the 'driver,' a small black + formica which bites severely, clears out houses, destroys the smaller + animals, and has, it is said, overpowered and destroyed hunters when, + torpid with fatigue, they have fallen asleep in the bush. The same + horrible end, being eaten alive, atom by atom, has befallen white traders + whose sickness prevented their escape. 'Accra,' which calls itself Ga, is + known to the Oji-speaking peoples as 'Enkran,' and must be translated + 'Land of Drivers,' not of White Ants.] which marched in detached but + parallel lines. It rises gently in slopes of yellow clay towards the west, + and doubtless it covers quartz-reefs, as the lay is the usual meridional. + The talus, pitted with the shallow pans called 'women's washings,' shows + signs of hard work, probably dating from the days when every headman had + his gang of 'pawns' and slaves. Rising at the head of the creek, itself a + natural gold-sluice, its bed and banks can carry any number of flumes, + which would deposit their precious burden in cisterns near the river. I + need hardly say they must be made movable, so as to raise their level + above the inundation. Here the one thing wanted would be a miner + accustomed to 'hydraulicking' in California or British Columbia, Australia + or South Africa. I hope that the work will not be placed in inexperienced + hands, whose blunders of ignorance will give the invaluable and infallible + process a bad name. + </p> + <p> + Retracing our steps, we made the chief Sensensé's village, and persuaded + him to guide us. The short cut led through a forest and a swamp, which + reeked with nauseating sulphuretted hydrogen. We avoided it on return by a + <i>détour</i>. After a short hour's walk we ascended a banana-grown + hillock, upon which lay the ruins of the little mining-village Abesebá. A + few paces further, through a forest rich in gamboge and dragon's blood + (not the <i>D. draco</i>), in rubber and in gutta-percha (?), where + well-laden lime-trees gave out their perfume, placed us upon the great + south-eastern reef. It was everywhere drilled with pits, and we obtained + fine specimens from one which measured twenty feet deep. Several of them + were united by rude and dangerous tunnels. I have heard of these galleries + being pierced in other places; but the process is not common, and has + probably been copied from Europeans. + </p> + <p> + On March 1 was held a formal palaver of headmen and elders. The Akankon + concession had been bought by Messieurs Bonnat and Wyatt from Sensensé of + the fetish, whose ancestors, he declared, had long ruled the whole + country. The rent, they say, was small—$4 per mensem and 15 + pereguins (135<i>l</i>. [Footnote: Assuming at 9<i>l</i>. the pereguin, + which others reduce at 8<i>l</i>. and others raise to 10<i>l</i>.]) per + annum—when operations began. I have heard these gentlemen blamed, + and very unjustly, for buying so cheap and selling so dear—17,000<i>l</i>. + in cash and 33,000<i>l</i>. in shares. But the conditions were well worth + the native's acceptance; and, if he be satisfied, no one can complain. The + apparently large amount included the expenses of 'bringing out' the mine; + and these probably swallowed a half. When Sensensé received his pay, a + host of rival claimants started up. In these lands there is no law against + trespass; wherever a plantation is deserted the squatter may occupy it, + and popular opinion allows him and his descendants the permanent right of + using, letting, or selling it. I do not think, however, that this rule + would apply to a white man. + </p> + <p> + Sensensé's claims were contested by three chiefs—Kofi Blay-chi, + Kwáko Bukári, who brought an acute advocate, Ebba of Axim, and Kwáko Jum, + a fine specimen of the sea-lawyer; this bumptious black had pulled down + the board which marked the Abesebá reef, and had worked the pits to his + own profit. After many meetings, of which the present was our last, the + litigants decided that hire and 'dashes' should be shared by only two, + Sensensé and Kofi Blay-chi. Energetic Jum, finding his pretensions + formally ignored, jumped up and at once set out to 'enter a protest' in + legal form at Axim. + </p> + <p> + The crowd of notables present affixed their marks, which, however, they by + no means connected with the 'sign of the Cross.' We witnessed the + document, and a case of trade-gin concluded an unpleasant business that + threatened the Apatim as well as the Akankon concession. I repeat what I + have before noted: too much care cannot be taken when title to ground in + Africa is concerned. And a Registration Office is much wanted at + head-quarters; otherwise we may expect endless litigation and the advent + of the London attorney. Moreover, the people are fast learning foreign + ideas. Sensensé, for instance, is nephew (sister's son) to Blay-chi, which + relationship in Black-land makes him the heir: meanwhile his affectionate + uncle works upon the knowledge that this style of succession does not hold + good in England. + </p> + <p> + The eventful evening ended with a ball, which demanded another + distribution of gin. The dance was a compound affair. The Krumen had their + own. Forming an Indian file for attack, they carried bits of board instead + of weapons; and it was well that they did so, the warlike performance + causing immense excitement. The Apollonians preferred wide skirts and the + <i>pas seul</i> of an amatory nature; it caused shrieks of laughter, and + at last even the women and wees could not prevent joining in the sport. + Years ago I began to collect notes upon the dances of the world; and the + desultory labour of some months convinced me that an exhaustive monograph, + supposing such thing possible, would take a fair slice out of a man's + life. I learnt, however, one general rule—that all the myriad forms + of dancing originally express only love and war, in African parlance + 'woman-palaver' and 'land-palaver.' However much the 'quiet grace of high + refinement' may disguise original significance, Nature will sometimes + return despite the pitchfork; witness a <i>bal de l'Opéra</i> in the palmy + days of the Second Empire. + </p> + <p> + The Kruman ball ended in a battle royal. The results were muzzles swollen + and puffed out like those of mandrills, and black eyes—that is to + say, blood-red orbits where the skin had been abraded by fist and stick. + As they applied to us for justice and redress, we administered it, after + 'seeing face and back,' or hearing both sides, by a general cutting-off of + the gin-supply and a temporary stoppage of 'Sunday-beef.' + </p> + <p> + I cannot leave this rich and unhappy Akankon mine without a few + reflections; it so admirably solves the problem 'how <i>not</i> to do it.' + The concession was negotiated in 1878. In April 1881 Cameron proceeded to + open operations, accompanied by the grantee and four Englishmen, engineers + and miners. He was, however, restricted to giving advice, and was not + permitted to command. The results, as we have seen, were a round shaft + made square and a cross-cut which cut nothing. As little more appeared + likely to be done, and harmony was not the order of the day, my companion + sent the party home in June 1881, and followed it himself shortly + afterwards. Since that time the Company has been spending much money and + making <i>nil</i>. The council-room has been a barren battle-field over a + choice of superintendents and the properest kind of machinery, London-work + being pitted, for 'palm-oil' in commission-shape, against provincial work. + And at the moment I write (May 1, 1882), when 7,000<i>l</i>. have been + spent or wasted, the shares, 10<i>s.</i> in the pound paid up, may be + bought for a quarter. I can only hope that Mr. Amondsen, who met me at + Axim, may follow my suggestions and send home alluvial gold. + </p> + <p> + Cameron's most sensible advice concerning the local establishment required + for Akankon was as follows:— + </p> + <p> + He laid down the total expenditure at 21,000<i>l</i>. per annum, including + expenses in England. This sum would work 100 tons per diem with 350 hands + (each at 1<i>s</i>. hire and 3<i>d</i>. subsistence-money) and sixteen + cooks and servants. The staff would consist of six officers. The manager + should draw 800<i>l</i>. (not 1,200<i>l</i>.), and the surgeon, absolutely + necessary in case of accidents, 450<i>l</i>. with rations. This is the pay + of Government, which does not allow subsistence. The reduction-officer and + the book-keeper are rated at 500<i>l</i>., and the superintendent of works + and the head-miner each at 240<i>l</i>. The pay of carpenters and other + mechanics, who should know how to make small castings, would range from + 180<i>l</i>. to 150<i>l</i>. The first native clerk and the store-keeper + would be paid 100<i>l</i>.; the time-keeper, with three assistants, 70<i>l</i>. + and 65<i>l</i>. The manager requires office, sitting-room, and bedroom, + and the medico a dispensary; the other four would have separate + sleeping-places and a common parlour. Each room would have its small + German stove for burning mangrove-fuel; and a fire-engine should be handy + on every establishment. All the white employés would mess together, unless + it be found advisable to make two divisions. The house would be of the + usual pitch-pine boarding on piles, like those of Lagos, omitting the + common passage or gallery, which threatens uncleanness; and the rooms + might be made gay with pictures and coloured prints. The natives would + build bamboo-huts. + </p> + <p> + Cameron, well knowing what <i>ennui</i> in Africa means, would send out a + billiard-table and a good lathe: he also proposed a skittle- or + bowling-alley, a ground for lawn-tennis under a shed, an ice-machine and + one for making soda-water. Each establishment would have its library, a + good atlas, a few works of reference, and treatises on mining, machinery, + and natural history. The bulk would be the cheap novels (each 4<i>d</i>.) + in which weary men delight. In addition to the 'Mining Journal,' the + 'Illustrated,' and the comics, local and country papers should be sent + out; exiles care more for the 'Little Pedlington Courant' than for the + 'journal of the City,' the 'Times.' + </p> + <p> + Gardening should be encouraged. The vegetables would be occros (<i>hibiscus</i>) + and brinjalls, lettuce, tomatoes, and marrow; yam and sweet potatoes, + pumpkins, peppers and cucumbers, whose seeds yield a fine-flavoured + salad-oil not sold in London. The fruits are grapes and pine-apples, limes + and oranges, mangoes and melons, papaws and a long list of native growth. + Nor should flowers be neglected, especially the pink and the rose. The + land, fenced in for privacy, would produce in abundance holeus-millet, + rice, and lucern for beasts. There would be a breeding-ground for black + cattle, sheep, goats, and pigs, and a poultry-yard protected against wild + cats. + </p> + <p> + The routine-day would be as follows: At 5.15 A.M. first bell, and notice + to 'turn out;' at 5.40 the 'little breakfast' of tea or coffee, + bread-and-butter, or toast, ham and eggs. The five working-hours of + morning (6-11 A.M.) to be followed by a substantial <i>déjeuner ŕ la + fourchette</i> at 11.30. Each would have a pint of beer or claret, and be + allowed one bottle of whisky a week. Mr. Ross, the miner, preferred + breakfast at 8 A.M., dinner at 1 P.M., and 'tea' at 5 P.M.; but these + hours leave scant room for work. + </p> + <p> + The warning-bell, at 12.45 P.M., after 1 hr. 45 min. rest, would prepare + the men to fall in, and return to work at 1 P.M.; and the afternoon-spell + would last till 5.30. Thus the working-day contains 9 hrs. 30 min. Dinner + would be served at any time after 6 P.M., and the allowance of liquor be + that of the breakfast. An occasional holiday to Axim should be allowed, in + order to correct the monotony of jungle-life. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0010" id="link2HCH0010"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXI. — TO TUMENTO, THE 'GREAT CENTRAL DEPÔT.' + </h2> + <p> + March 4 was a sore trial to us both. We 'went down' on the same day and by + our own fault. We had given the sorely-abused climate no chance; nor have + we any right to abuse it instead of blaming ourselves. The stranger should + begin work quietly in these regions; living, if possible, near the coast + and gradually increasing his exercise and exposure. Within three months, + especially if he be lucky enough to pass through a mild 'seasoning' of + ague and fever, he becomes 'acclimatised,' the consecrated term for a + European shorn of his redundant health, strength, and vigour. Medical men + warn new comers, and for years we had read their warnings, against the + 'exhaustion of the physical powers of the body from over-exertion.' They + prescribe gentle constitutionals to men whose hours must do the work of + days. It is like ordering a pauper-patient generous diet in the shape of + port and beef-steaks; for the safe system, which takes a quarter of a + year, would have swallowed up all our time. Consequently we worked too + hard. Our mornings and evenings were spent in collecting, and our days in + boating, or in walking instead of hammocking. Indeed, we placed, by way of + derision, the Krumen in the fashionable vehicle. And we had been too + confident in our past 'seasoning;' we had neglected such simple + precautions as morning and evening fires and mosquito-bars at night; + finally, we had exposed ourselves somewhat recklessly to sickly sun and + sweltering swamp. Four days on the burning hill-side completed the work. + My companion was prostrated by a bilious attack, I by ague and fever. + </p> + <p> + 'I thought you were at least fever-proof,' says the candid friend, as if + one had compromised oneself. + </p> + <p> + Alas! no: a man is not fever-proof in Africa till he takes permanent + possession of his little landed estate. Happily we had our remedies at + hand. There was no medico within hail; and, had there been, we should have + hesitated to call him in. These gentlemen are Government servants, who add + to their official salaries (400<i>l.</i> per annum) by private practice. + For five visits to a sick Kruboy six guineas have been charged; 5<i>l.</i> + for tapping a liver and sending two draughts and a box of pills, and 37<i>l.</i> + 10<i>s.</i> for treating a mild tertian which lasted a week. The late M. + Bonnat cost 80<i>l.</i> for a fortnight. Such fees should attract a host + of talented young practitioners from England; at any rate they suggest + that each mine or group of mines should carry its own surgeon. + </p> + <p> + Cameron applied himself diligently to chlorodyne, one of the two + invaluables on the Coast. We had a large store, but unfortunately the + natives have learnt its intoxicating properties, and during our absence + from Axim many bottles had disappeared. I need hardly say that good locks + and keys are prime necessaries in these lands, and that they are mostly + 'found wanting.' + </p> + <p> + I addrest myself to Warburg's drops (<i>Tinctura Warburgii</i>), a + preparation invaluable for travellers in the tropics and in the lower + temperates. The action appears to be chiefly on the liver through the + skin. The more a traveller sees, the firmer becomes his conviction that + health means the good condition of this rebellious viscus, and that its + derangement causes the two great pests of Africa, dysentery and fever. + Indeed, he is apt to become superstitious upon the subject, and to believe + that a host of diseases—gout and rheumatism, cholera and enteric + complaints—result from, and are to be cured or relieved only by + subduing, hepatic disturbances. My 'Warburg' was procured directly from + the inventor, not from the common chemist, who makes the little phialful + for 9<i>d.</i> and sells it for 4<i>s.</i> 6<i>d</i>. Some years ago a + distinguished medical friend persuaded Dr. Warburg, once of Vienna, now of + London, to reveal his secret, in the forlorn hope of a liberal + remuneration by the Home Government. Needless to say the reward is to + come. I first learnt to appreciate this specific at Zanzibar in 1856, + where Lieut.-Colonel Hamerton used it successfully in the most dangerous + remittents and marsh-fevers. Cases of the febrifuge were sent out to the + Coast during the Ashanti war for the benefit of army and navy: the latter, + they say, made extensive use of it. I have persistently recommended it to + my friends and the public; and, before leaving England in 1879, I wrote to + the 'Times,' proposing that all who owe (like myself) their lives to Dr. + Warburg should join in relieving his straitened means by a small + subscription. At this moment (June 1882) measures are being taken in + favour of the inventor, and I can only hope that the result will be + favourable. + </p> + <p> + The 'drops' are composed of the aromatic, sudorific and diaphoretic drugs + used as febrifuges by the faculty before the days of 'Jesuits' bark,' to + which a small quantity of quinine is added. Thus the tincture is + successful in many complaints besides fevers. Evidently skilful + manipulation is an important factor in the sum of its success. Dr. Warburg + has had the experience of the third of a century, and the authorities + could not do better than to give him a contract for making his own cure. + </p> + <p> + The enemy came on with treacherous gentleness—a slight rigor, a dull + pain in the head, and a local irritation. 'I have had dozens of fevers, + and dread them little more than a cold,' said Winwood Reade; indeed, the + English catarrh is quite as bad as the common marsh-tertian of the Coast. + The normal month of immunity had passed; I was prepared for the inevitable + ordeal, and I flattered myself that it would be a mild ague, at worst the + affair of a week, Altro! + </p> + <p> + Next morning two white men, owning that they felt 'awful mean,' left + Granton, walked down to Riverside House, and at 8 A.M. embarked upon the + hapless <i>Effuenta</i>. The stream rapidly narrowed, and its aspect + became wilder. Dead trees, anchored by the bole-base, cumbered the bed, + and dykes and bars of slate, overlaid by shales of recent date, projected + from either side. The land showed no sign of hills, but the banks were + steep at this season, in places here and there based on ruddy sand and + exposing strips of rude conglomerate, the <i>cascalho</i> of the Brazil. + This pudding is composed of waterworn pebbles, bedded in a dark clayey + soil which crumbles under the touch. On an arenaceous strip projecting + from the western edge the women were washing and panning where the bottom + of the digging was below that of the river. This is an everyday sight on + the Ancobra, and it shows what scientific 'hydraulicking' will do. After + six hours of steaming, not including three to fill the boiler, we halted + at Enfrámadié, the Fanti Frammanji, meaning 'wind cools,' that is, falls + calm. It is a wretched split heap of huts on the left bank, one patch + higher pitched than the other, to avoid the floods; the tenements are mere + cages, the bush lying close to the walls, and supplies are unprocurable. + In fact, the further we go the worse we fare as regards mere lodgings; yet + the site of our present halt is a high bank of yellow clay, which suggests + better things. There is no reason why this miserable hole should not be + made the river-depôt. + </p> + <p> + On March 4 we set out in the 'lizard's sun,' as the people call the + morning rays; our vehicle was the surf-boat, escorted by the big canoe. + Enfrámadié is the terminus of launch-navigation; the snags in the Dries + stop the way, and she cannot stem the current of the Rains. The Ancobra + now resembles the St. John's or Prince's River in the matter of + timber-floorwork and <i>chevaux de frise</i> of tree-corpses disposed in + every possible direction. After half an hour we paddled past the 'Devil's + Gate,' a modern name for an old and ugly feature. H.S.M.'s entrance (to + home?) is formed by black reefs and ridges projected gridiron-fashion from + ledges on either side almost across the stream, leaving a narrow <i>Thalweg</i> + so shallow that the boatmen must walk and drag. During the height of the + floods it is sometimes covered for a few hours by forty feet of water, + rising and falling with perilous continuity. + </p> + <p> + Beyond 'Devil's Gate' a pleasant surprise awaited us. Mr. D. C. MacLennan, + manager of the Effuenta mine, [Footnote: The name was given by M. Dahse; + it is that of the first worker, Efuátá, a woman born on Saturday (<i>Efua</i>), + and the third of a series of daughters (<i>átá</i>).] stopped his canoe to + greet us. He was justly proud of his charge—a box of amalgam + weighing 15 lbs. and carrying eighty ounces of gold. It was to be retorted + at home and to be followed within a fortnight by a larger delivery, and + afterwards by monthly remittances. The precious case, which will give + courage to so many half-hearted shareholders, was duly embarked on the + A.S.S. <i>Ambriz</i> (Captain Crookes); and its successor, containing the + produce of a hundred tons, on the B. and A. <i>Benguela</i> (Captain + Porter). Consequently the papers declared that Effuenta was first in the + field of results. This is by no means the case. As early as November 1881 + Mr. W. E. Crocker, of Crockerville, manager of the important Wásá, + (Wassaw) mining-property, sent home gold—amalgam, and black sand + [Footnote: I have before noticed this 'golden sea-sand.' It has lately + been found, the papers tell me, on the coast about Cape Commerell, British + Columbia. A handful, taken from a few inches below the surface, shows + glittering specks of 'float-gold,' scales so fine that it was difficult to + wash them by machinery. Mem. This is what women do every day on the Gold + Coast. The <i>Colonist</i> says that a San Francisco company has at length + hit upon the contrivance. It consists of six drawers or layers of plates + punched with holes about half an inch in diameter, and covered with + amalgam. The gold-sand is 'dumped in;' and the water, turned on the + top-plate, sets all in motion: the sand falls from plate to plate, leaving + the free loose gold which has attached itself to the amalgam, and very + little remains to be caught by the sixth plate. So simple a process is + eminently fitted for the Gold Coast.]—a total of sixty-eight ounces + to twenty-five tons. + </p> + <p> + After an hour's paddling we sighted a few canoes and surf-boats under a + raised clay-bank binding the stream on the left. This was Tumento + (Tomento), our destination; the word means 'won't go,' as the rock is + supposed to say to the water. The aspect of the Ancobra becomes gloomy and + menacing. The broad bed shrinks to a ditch, almost overshadowed by its + sombre walls of many-hued greens; and the dead tree-trunks of the channel, + ghastly white in the dull brown shade, look to the feverish imagination + like the skeleton hands and fingers of monstrous spectres outspread to bar + thoroughfare. + </p> + <p> + We landed and walked a few yards to the settlement. A 'Steam-launch' + sounds grandiose, and so does a 'Great Central Depôt'—seen on paper. + And touching this place I was told a tale. Some time ago two young French + employés, a doctor and an engineer, were sent up to the mines, and fell + victims to the magical influence of the name. Quoth Jules to Alphonse, 'My + friend, we will land; we will call a <i>fiacre</i>; we will drive to the + local Three Provincial Brothers; we will eat a succulent repast, and then + for a few happy hours we will forget Blackland and these ignoble blacks.' + So they toiled up the stiff and slippery slope, and found a scatter of + crate-huts crowning a bald head of yellow argil. Speechless with rage and + horror at the sight of the 'Depôt,' they rushed headlong into the canoe, + returned without a moment's delay to Axim, and, finding a steamer in the + bay, incontinently went on board, flying the Dark Continent for ever. + </p> + <p> + We housed ourselves in Messieurs Swanzy and Crocker's establishment at + Tumento. The climate appeared wholesome; the river brought with it a + breeze, and we were evidently entering the region of woods, between the + mangrove-swamps of the coast and the grass-lands of the interior. + </p> + <p> + At Tumento I met, after some twenty years, Mr. Dawson, of Cape Coast + Castle. The last time it was at Dahoman Agbóme, in company with the Rev. + Mr. Bernasko, who died (1872) of dropsy and heart-disease. He is now in + the employment of the Tákwá, or French Company, and his local knowledge + and old experience had suggested working the mines to M. Bonnat. Some + forty years ago the English merchants of 'Cabo Corso' used to send their + people hereabouts to dig; and more recently Mr. Carter had spent, they + say, 4,000<i>l</i>. upon the works. He was followed by another roving + Englishman, who was not more successful. The liberation of pawns and other + anti-abolitionist 'fads' had so raised the wage-rate that the rich placers + were presently left to the natives. We exchanged reminiscences, and he at + once started down stream for Axim. + </p> + <p> + As we were unable to work, Mr. Grant proceeded to inspect the concession + called 'Insimankáo,' the Asamankáo of M. Zimmermann. It is the name of the + village near which Sir Charles Macarthy was slain: our authorities + translated it 'I've got you,' as the poor man said to the gold, or the + cruel chief to the runaway serf. Mr. Dawson, who is uncle by marriage to + Mr. Grant, had also suggested this digging. Our good manager, now an adept + at prospecting, found the way very foul and the place very rich. It was + afterwards, as will be seen, visited by Mr. Oliver Pegler and lastly by + Cameron. + </p> + <p> + Amongst the few new faces seen at Tumento were two 'Krambos,' Moslems and + writers of charms and talismans. A 'Patent Improved Metallic Book,' which + looked in strange company, contained their 'fetish' and apparently + composed their travelling kit. Both hailed from about Tinbukhtu, but their + Arabic was so imperfect that I could make nothing of their route. These + men acquire considerable authority amongst the pagan negroes, who expect + great things from their 'grígrís.' They managed to find us some eggs when + no one else could. This Hibernian race of Gold Coast blacks had eaten or + sold all its hens, and had kept only the loud-crowing cocks. The presence + of these two youths convinced me that there will be a Mohammedan movement + towards the Gold Coast. A few years may see thousands of them, with + mosques by the dozen established upon the sea-board. The 'revival of + El-Islam' shows itself nowhere so remarkably as in Africa. + </p> + <p> + At Tumento Cameron found himself growing rapidly worse. He suffered from + pains in the legs, and owned that even when crossing Africa during his + three years of wild life he remembered nothing more severe. In my own case + there was a severe tussle between Dr. Warburg and Fever-fiend. The attacks + had changed from a tertian to a quotidian, and every new paroxysm left me, + like the 'possessed' of Holy Writ after the expulsion of 'devils,' utterly + prostrate. During the three days' struggle I drained two bottles of + 'Warburg.' The admirable drug won the victory, but it could not restore + sleep or appetite. + </p> + <p> + Seeing how matters stood, and how easily bad might pass to worse, I + proposed the proceeding whereby a man lived to fight another day. We were + also falling short of ready money, and the tornadoes were becoming matters + of daily occurrence. After a long and anxious pow-wow Cameron accepted, + and it was determined to run down to the coast, and there collect health + and strength for a new departure. No sooner said than done. On March 8 we + left Tumento in our big canoe, passed the night at Riverside House, and + next evening were inhaling, not a whit too soon, the inspiriting + sea-whiffs of Axim. + </p> + <p> + The rest of my tale is soon told. + </p> + <p> + Cameron recovered health within a week, and resolved to go north again. + His object was to inspect for the second time the working mines about + Tákwá, and to note their present state; also to make his observations and + to finish his map. He did not look in full vigour; and, knowing his + Caledonian tenacity of purpose, I made him promise not to run too much + risk by over-persistence. After a <i>dîner d'Axim</i> and discussing a + plum-pudding especially made for our Christmas by a fair and kind friend + at Trieste, he set out Ancobra-wards on March 16. He would have no Krumen; + so our seven fellows, who refused to take service in the Effuenta mine, + were paid off and shipped for 'we country.' The thirty hands ordered in + mid-January appeared in mid-March, and were made over to Mr. MacLennan. My + companion set out with faithful Joe, Mr. Dawson the stuffer, and his dog + Nero. I did not hear of him or from him till we met at Madeira. + </p> + <p> + My case was different. I could not recover strength like my companion, who + is young and who has more of vital force to expend. This consideration + made me fearful of spoiling his work: a sick traveller in the jungle is a + terrible encumbrance. I therefore proposed to run south and to revisit my + old quarters, 'F.Po' and the Oil Rivers, in the B. and A. s.s. <i>Loanda</i> + (Captain Brown), the same which would pick up my companion after his + return to Axim. + </p> + <p> + Life on the coast was not unpleasant, despite the equinoctial gales which + broke on March 19 and blew hard till March 25. I had plenty of occupation + in working up my notes, and I was lucky enough to meet all the managers of + the working mines who were passing through Axim. From Messieurs Crocker + (Wásá), MacLennan (Effuenta), Creswick (Gold Coast Company), and Bowden + (Tákwá [Footnote: Alias the African Gold Coast Company, whose shareholders + are French and English. It has lately combined with the Mine d'Or + d'Abowassu (Abosu), the capital being quoted at five millions of francs. + Thus the five working mines are reduced to four, while the 'Izrah' and + others are coming on (May 1882).]) I had thus an opportunity of gathering + much hearsay information, and was able to compare opinions which differed + widely enough. I also had long conversations with Mr. A. A. Robertson, + lately sent out as traffic-manager to the Izrah, and with Mr. Amondsen, + the Danish sailor, then <i>en route</i> to the hapless Akankon mine. Mr. + Paulus Dahse, who was saved from a severe sickness by Dr. Roulston and by + his brother-in-law, Mr. Wulfken, eventually became my fellow-passenger to + Madeira, where I parted from him with regret. During long travel and a + residence of years in various parts of the Gold Coast he has collected a + large store of local knowledge, and he is most generous in parting with + his collection. + </p> + <p> + But, when prepared to embark on board the <i>Loanda</i>, which was a week + late, my health again gave way, and I found that convalescence would be a + long affair. Madeira occurred to me as the most restful of places, and + there I determined to await my companion. The A.S.S. <i>Winnebah</i> + (Captain Hooper) anchored at Axim on March 28; the opportunity was not to + be lost, and on the same evening we steamed north, regaining health and + strength with every breath. + </p> + <p> + The A.S.S. <i>Winnebah</i> could not be characterised as 'comfortable.' + Mr. Purser Denny did his best to make her an exception to the Starvation + rule, but even he could not work miracles. She is built for a riverboat, + and her main cabin is close to the forecastle. She was crowded with + Kruboys, and all her passengers were 'doubled up.' A full regiment of + parrots was on board, whose daily deaths averaged twenty to thirty. The + birds being worth ten shillings each, our engines were driven as they + probably had never been driven before, and the clacking of the + safety-valve never ceased. + </p> + <p> + The weather, however, was superb. We caught the north-east Trade a little + north of Cape Palmas, and kept it till near Grand Canary. On April 13, + greatly improved by the pleasant voyage and by complete repose, I rejoiced + once more in landing at the fair isle Madeira. + </p> + <p> + And now <i>Cameronus loquitur</i>. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0011" id="link2HCH0011"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXII. — TO INSIMANKÁO AND THE BUTABUÉ RAPIDS. + </h2> + <p> + Leaving Axim on March 16, I slept at Kumprasi and remarked a great change + in the bar of the Ancobra River. During the dry season it had been + remarkably good, but now it began to change for the worse; and soon it + will become impassable for three or four days at a time. My surf-boat, + when coming across it, shipped three seas. On my return down the river + (April 15) the whole sand-bank to the west of the mouth had been washed + away, forming dangerous shoals; the sea was furiously breaking and + 'burning,' as the old Dutch say, and the waves which entered the river + were so high that canoes were broken and boats were seriously damaged. + </p> + <p> + I stored my goods in the surf-boat, and set out in our big canoe early + next morning. A string of dug-outs was next passed, loaded with + palm-kernels, maize, and bananas; it appeared as if they were all bound + for the market at Axim. I took specimens of swish and stone from 'Ross's + Hill.' The top soil showed good signs of gold, and the grains were + tolerably coarse. Here a floating power-engine would soon bare the reefs + and warp up the swamp. Messieurs Allan and Plisson, who were floating down + in a surf-boat, gave me the news that the steam-launch <i>Effuenta</i> had + at last succumbed in the struggle for life. + </p> + <p> + I landed at Akromási, a village where the true bamboo-cane grows, and + found the soil to be a grey sandy clay; there were many 'women's washings' + near the settlement. Shortly before reaching the Ahenia River we saw the + landing-place for the valuable 'Apatim concession.' They told me on + enquiry that the stream is deep and has been followed up in a surf-boat + for a mile or two. It may therefore prove of use to Mr. Irvine's property, + Apatim. + </p> + <p> + At half-past five that evening I reached Akankon, and slept well at + 'Riverside House.' Mr. Morris had begun levelling the ground and building + new quarters for general use. I gave him some slips of bamboo and roots of + Bahama-grass, as that planted had grown so well. + </p> + <p> + Next morning we got under way early (6.50) and proceeded up the river. The + canoe-men, seeing pots of palm-wine on the banks, insisted upon landing to + slake their eternal thirst. The mode in which the liquor is sold shows a + trustfulness on the part of the seller which may result from firm belief + in his 'fetish.' Any passer-by can drink wine <i>ŕ discrétion</i>, and is + expected to put the price in a calabash standing hard by. Beyond the + Yengéni River I saw for the first and only time purple clay-slate + overlying quartz. Collecting here and there specimens of geology, and + suffering much from the sun, for I still was slightly feverish, I reached + the 'great central depôt' at 4 P.M. + </p> + <p> + Tumento was found by observation to lie in N. lat. 4ş 12' 20" and in W. + long. (Gr.) 2ş 12' 25". Consequently it is only eighteen direct + geographical miles from the sea, the mouth of the Ancobra being in W. lat. + 2ş 54'. Some make the distance thirty and others sixty miles. The latter + figure would apply only by doubling the windings of the bed. + </p> + <p> + This ascent of the river convinced me more than ever that Enfrámadié is + the proper terminus of its navigation. I passed the next day at Tumento, + which proved to be only half the distance usually supposed along the + Ancobra bed from its mouth. The time was spent mainly in resting and + doctoring myself. At night the rats, holding high carnival, kept me awake + till 3 A.M.; and I heard shots being continually fired from a native mine + whose position was unknown. The natives now know how to bore and blast; + consequently thefts of powder, drills, and fuses become every day more + common. My first visit (March 20) was to the Insimankáo concession. I left + the surf-boat behind, and put my luggage into small canoes hired at + Tumento, myself proceeding in the large canoe. We shoved off from the + beach at 8.50 A.M. The Ancobra had now, after the late rains, a fair + current instead of being almost dead water; otherwise it maintained the + same appearance. The banks are conglomerate, grey clay and slate; gravel, + sand, shingle, and pebbles of reddish quartz, bedded in earth of the same + colour, succeeding one another in ever-varying succession. Only two reefs, + neither of them important, projected from the sides. + </p> + <p> + After an hour and a half paddling we reached the Fura, which I should call + a creek; it is not out of the mangrove-region. The bed is set in high, + steep banks submerged during the rains; and the narrowness of the mouth, + compared with the upper part, made it run, after the late showers, into + the Ancobra like a mill-race. In fact, the paddlers were compelled to + track in order to make headway. After ten minutes (=200 yards) we reached + a landing-place, all jungle with rotting vegetation below. I do not think + that as a waterway the Fura Creek can be made of any practical use; but it + will be very valuable for 'hydraulicking.' Canoes and small surf-boats may + run down it at certain seasons, but the flow is too fast and the bed is + too full of snags and sawyers to be easily ascended. + </p> + <p> + At the landing-place I mounted my hammock and struck the path which runs + over level ground pretty thick with second-growth. The chief Bimfú, who + met me at Tumento, had broken his promise to guide me, and had neglected + to clear the way. On a largish creek which was nearly dry I saw a number + of 'women's washings.' Then we passed on the right a hillock seventy to + eighty feet high, where quartz showed in detached and weathered blocks. + Beyond it were native shafts striking the auriferous drift at a depth of + eight to ten feet. A few yards further on the usual washings showed that + the top soil is also worth working. + </p> + <p> + Another half-hour brought us to about a dozen native shafts in the usual + chimney shape. They were quite new and had been temporarily left on + account of the rise of the water, which was here twenty-four feet below + the surface. The top soil is of sandy clay, and the gold-containing + drifts, varying in thickness, they told me, from two to four feet, + consisted of quartz pebbles bedded in red loam. The general look of the + stratum and the country suggested an old lagoon. + </p> + <p> + An hour and a half of hammock brought me from the landing-place of the + Fura Creek to the village of Insimankáo. Rain was falling heavily and + prevented all attempts at observation. The settlement is the usual group + of swish and bamboo box-huts nestling in the bush. A small clean + bird-cage, divided into two compartments, with standing bedstead, was + assigned to me. Next morning I walked to the Insimankáo mine by a path + leading along, and in places touching, the bank of the Fura Creek, which + runs through the whole property. After thirty-three minutes we reached the + 'marked tree.' Here the land begins to rise and forms the Insimankáo Hill, + whose trend is to north-north-east. Mr. Walker calls it Etia-Kaah, or + Echia-Karah, meaning 'when you hear (of its fame) you will come.' It is + the usual mound of red clay, fairly wooded, and about 150 feet high; the + creek runs about 100 yards west of the pits. The reefs seemed to be almost + vertical, with a strike to the north-north-east; and the walls showed + slate, iron-oxide, and decomposed quartz. The main reef [Footnote: Mr. O. + Pegler (A.R.S.M.) describes it as a 'very powerful reef outcropping boldly + from a hill at a short distance from the native village, the strike being + north-north-east to south-south-west, and the vein having a great + inclination. At the crest of the hill it presents a massive appearance, + and is many feet in width—in some places between twenty and thirty + feet. This diminishes towards the native pits, and there the vein diverges + into two portions, both presenting a decomposed appearance, the casing on + both foot and hanging wall having a highly talcose character.' This + engineer also washed gold specks from the loose soil. Finally, he notes + that the massive quartz-outcrop is homogeneous and crystalline, giving + only traces of gold, but that the stone improves rapidly with depth.] was + from eight to ten feet thick, and I believe that there are other and + parallel formations. But the ground is very complicated, and for proper + study I should have required borings and cross-cuts. + </p> + <p> + There were two big rough pits called shafts. I descended into the deeper + one, which was fourteen to fifteen feet below ground. The walls would + repay washing on a large scale; and the look of the top soil reminded me + of the descriptions of old California and Australia when there were rushes + of miners to the gold-fields, carrying for all machinery a pick, a pan, + and a tin 'billy.' + </p> + <p> + The Insimankáo concession contains 1,000 fathoms square; the measurements + being taken from a 'marked tree' on the north-western slope of the hill + with the long name. The position is N. lat. 5ş 18' 15" and the long. W. + (Gr.) 2ş 14' 03". West of the centre the Fura Creek receives a small + tributary. Mr. Walker took fair samples from the well-defined reef and the + outcropping boulders, whose strike is from north-north-east to + south-south-west. He notes that the land Egwira, which lies between Wásá + and Aowin, was long famous for its mining-industry, and that it appears in + old maps as a 'Republick rich in gold.' We heard of the Abenje mine on the + same reef, four to five miles east of Insimankáo; and he declares that it + has been abandoned because the population is too scanty. + </p> + <p> + I left this mining property convinced that working it will pay well. The + only thing to be guarded against is overlapping the French concession of + Mankuma, which lies immediately to the east. + </p> + <p> + From the mine I walked back to the village, breakfasted, and returned in + the canoes to the sluice-like mouth of the Fura Greek. I then ascended the + Ancobra, in order to inspect the Butabué rapids, said to be the end of + canoe-navigation. We passed on the right a reef and a shallow of + conglomerate, washed out of the banks and forming a race; there is another + reef with its rip at Aroásu. In the early part of the afternoon we got to + the village of Ebiásu, which means 'not dark.' Here the equinoctial + showers began to fall heavily, and I was again obliged to sleep without + observations. The village is built upon a steep bank of yellow clay, with + rich red oxides; it stands forty feet above the present level, and yet at + times it is flooded out. + </p> + <p> + Leaving Ebiásu next morning, I found the banks of sand, clay, and small + pebbles beginning to shelve. We passed over slaty rocks in the bed; and + the depth of water was often not more than three feet. Women's washings + were seen on the left bank, and the river had risen after they had been + worked. We could not approach them on account of the reefs and the + current. The opposite bank, about five minutes further up, is of soft + sandstone; and here a native tunnel of forty to fifty feet had been run in + from the river to communicate with a shaft. My men were nervous about + leopards, and I had to encourage them by firing my rifle into the hole. + The normal formation continued, and here the land is evidently built by + the river; there are few hills, and the present direction of the bed has + been determined by the rocks and reefs, the outliers of the old true + coast. These features may have been lower than they are now, and owe their + present elevation to upheaval. Immature conglomerate—that is, a + pudding of pebbles and hardened clay—seems to have been deposited in + the synclinal curve of the bed-rock, principally slate. Overlying both are + the top soil and the sands, the latter often resembling the washed out + tailings of stamped rock. + </p> + <p> + Passing the village Abanfokru, I found myself amongst the extensive + concessions of the French, who have taken the alluvial grounds for washing + and working. M. Bonnat's map gives the approximate positions and + dimensions; and the several sites are laid down by M. Dahse. I shall have + more to say about this section on my return. + </p> + <p> + Navigation now becomes more intricate and difficult, owing to rocks and + reefs, rips and rapids. A large stony holm about mid-stream is called + Eduásim, meaning 'thief in river.' I need not repeat from my map the names + of the unimportant settlements. At the mouth of the Abonsá the bed widens + to nearly double, and the north-easterly direction shifts to due north. + This great drain, falling into the left bank, lies between five and six + miles above the Fura Creek. I shall have more to say about it when + describing my descent. Two miles further north brought us to the beginning + of the rapids, which apparently end the boat-navigation. The only canoes + are used for ferrying; I saw no water-traffic, and there were no longer + any fish-weirs. Moreover, the country has been deserted, I was told, since + the arrival of strangers. The natives have probably been treated with + little consideration. A quarter of an hour's hauling, all hands being + applied to the canoe, took us about fifty yards over the Impayim rapid, + whose fall is from four to five feet deep. Immediately after the Butabué + influent on the right bank the bed bends abruptly east, and we reached the + far-famed rapids of that name. Here the whole surface, as far up as the + eye can see, is a mass of rocks and of broken, surging water. The + vegetation of the banks, bound together by creepers, llianas, and rattans, + is peculiarly fine. I landed upon one of the rocks, sketched the Butabué, + whose name none could explain, and returned down stream to the 'great + central Depôt,' Tumento. + </p> + <p> + I can say little about the River Ancobra above the rapids, except that it + resumes its course from the north-north-east and the north, apparently + guided by the hills. The sources are now only a few miles distant, but the + stream is unnavigable, and they must be reached on foot. The late M. + Bonnat walked up by a hunter's path, now killed out, to the ruins of Bush + Castle, which Jeekel calls Fort Ruyghaver. He there secured possession of + the rich Asamán mines, which the work was intended to defend. There is + some fetish there, and the place is known as the burial-ground of the + kings. I was also told that four or five marches off a <i>cache</i> of + treasure, described to be large, had been made during the Ashanti-Gyáman + war, and had been defended by the usual superstitions. Fetish may have + lost much of its power on the coast; in the interior, however, it is still + strong, and few white men live long after being placed under its ban. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0012" id="link2HCH0012"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXIII. — TO EFFUENTA, CROCKERVILLE, AND THE AJI BIPA HILL. + </h2> + <p> + At Tumento the halt of a day (March 22) was necessary in order to hire + carriers and get ready for the march eastward. Here, too, I washed sundry + specimens of soft earth from various parts of the river-banks, finding + colour of gold in all except the grey clay. Our Mohammedan friends were + there; the eldest called upon me and was exceedingly civil, besides being + to a certain extent useful. For the hire of a shilling and two cakes of + Cavendish he found me eggs in a village some three miles off, and he ended + by writing me a 'safy,' which would bring me good luck in all my + undertakings. It consists of the usual Koranic quotations in black, and of + magic numbers in pink, ink. + </p> + <p> + Dr. Roulston and Mr. Higgins, the new District Commissioner for Tákwá, + entered Tumento about 3 P.M. The carriers hired in addition to my + canoe-men would now be wanted, said the cunning old chief, for the + 'Government man,' with whom he wished to stand well. As the porters had + received an advance of pay I objected to this proceeding. The fresh + arrivals had to find other hands, and were not very successful in the + search. Their detachment of twenty-five Haussa soldiers, who had escorted + to the coast Dr. Duke, the acting commissioner lately invalided, were sent + abroad in all directions to act press-gang, and the natural lawlessness of + the race came out strong. The force is injured by enlisting 'Haussas' who + are not Haussa at all; merely semi-savage and half-pagan slaves. On + detached duty they get quite out of hand; and they by no means serve to + make our Government popular. By the rules of the force they should never + be absent from head-quarters for more than six months; their transport + costs next to nothing, as they march by bush-paths. And yet they are kept + for years on outpost-duty, where it would require a Glover to discipline + them and to make them steady soldiers. They live by plunder. A private on + a shilling a day will eat three fowls, each worth 9<i>d</i>. to 10<i>d</i>., + and drink any taken amount of palm-wine. There are no means of punishment, + or even of securing a criminal; the colony cannot afford irons or + handcuffs; there is no prison, and a Haussa, placed under arrest in a + bamboo-hut, cuts his way out as easily as a rat from a bird-cage. + </p> + <p> + One of these men was accused of murdering a woman in one of the villages + on the way. His comrades brought in husbands, wives, and children + indiscriminately, not sparing even the chiefs. Bimfú, of Insimankáo, was + among the number; next morning, however, he threw his pack, bolted to the + bush, and eventually reported his grievances to Axim. The second headman + of Tumento, when pressed, managed to secure a very small load. But as + payment is by weight, 6<i>d</i>. per 10 lbs. from the river to Effuenta, + and no subsistence is allowed, his gains were small in proportion; he + received for three days only 9<i>d</i>., the ordinary value of porter's + rations. + </p> + <p> + Next day (March 23) we left Tumento at 7.30 A.M. The caravan consisted of + thirty-two men, all told—canoe-men from Axim, Tumento bearers, + boatswain, and my three body-servants. All were under the command of Joe + the Indefatigable, who formed a kind of body-guard of gun-carriers out of + the porters that carried the lightest packs. Mr. Dawson assisted me in + collecting; Paul prepared to shoulder a bed, and the boatswain was ordered + to catch butterflies. The cries of 'bátli,' 'basky,' and 'bokkus' (bottle, + basket, and box) continually broke the silence of the bush and gladdened + the collector's ears. I was still able to dispense with the hammock. + </p> + <p> + In the first few minutes the path trends southwards; it then assumes and + keeps an easterly direction. Here is a water-parting: the many little + beds, mostly full of water, flow either north towards the Abonsá or south + and westwards to the Ancobra. They are divided by detached hills, or + rather oblong mounds, of the same formation as the beds; quartz, gravel, + and red clay, all disposed in the usual direction. Women's washings were + seen everywhere along the road, and in some places oozings of iron from + the soil heavily charged the streamlets. Some of the quartz-boulders were + coloured outside like porphyry by the oxide. About three-quarters of the + way from Tumento to Apankru is a hill rich in outcrops of quartz. I + believe it to be French property. + </p> + <p> + These rises and falls led over 7-1/2 direct geographical miles, usually + done in three hours, to Apankru, a second 'great central Depôt.' The + village lies on the right bank of the Abonsá River, here some forty feet + high. It is composed almost entirely of the store-houses of the several + companies—(Gold Coast) Effuenta, and Swanzy's (English), the African + Gold Coast and Mines d'Or d'Aboassu [Footnote: At first I supposed the + word to be Abo-Wásá, or Stones of Wásá: it is simply Abosu, meaning 'on + the rock.'] (French). Only the latter use the Abonsá for transport + purposes—I think very unwisely. My descent of the stream will show + all its dangers of snags, rapids, and heavy currents. Here it rises high + during the floods, and sometimes it swamps the lower courtyards. + </p> + <p> + I put up at Mr. Crocker's establishment, which was, as usual, nice and + clean; and the officials went on to Effuenta. The native clerk took good + care of me, probably moved thereto by Mr. Joe, who addressed him, 'Here, + gib me key; I want house for <i>my</i> master!' During the evening, in the + intervals of heavy rain, I obtained a latitude by Castor. Apankru lies in + north latitude 5ş 13' 55", and its longitude (by calculation) is 0ş 20' 6" + west. + </p> + <p> + The next morning (March 24) was dark and threatening. At 6.30 A.M. we + struck into the path, a mere bush-track, the corduroys and bridges made by + the Swanzy house having completely disappeared. This want of public + feeling, of 'solidarity,' amongst the several mining companies should be + remedied with a strong hand. These men seem not to know that rivalry may + be good in buying palm-oil, but is the wrong thing in mining. Such a + jealousy assisted in making the Spanish proverb 'A silver mine brings + wretchedness; a gold mine brings ruin.' Even in England I have met with + unwise directors who told me, 'Oh, you must not say that, or people will + prefer such and such a mine.' But, speaking generally, employers are aware + that unity of interest should produce solidarity of action. The local + employés like to breed divisions, in order to increase their own + importance. This should be put down with a strong hand; and all should + learn the lesson that what benefits one mine benefits all. Many of the + little streams run between steep banks, and in the rainy season mud and + water combine to make the line impracticable. Yet there is nothing to + stand in the way of a cheap tram; and perhaps this would cost less and + keep better than a metalled road. The twisting of the track, 'without + rhyme or reason,' reminded me of the snakiest paths in Central Africa. Our + course, as the map shows, was in every quadrant of the compass except the + south-western. + </p> + <p> + On our left or north ran the Aunábé, M. Dahse's Ahunabé, [Footnote: M. + Dahse's paper, <i>Die Goldküste</i> (Geog. Soc. of Bremen, vol. ii., + 1882), has been ably translated by Mr. H. Bruce Walker, jun., of the India + Store Depôt.] the northern fork of the Abonsá, which falls into the right + bank below Apankru. It has a fine assortment of mixed rapids, which show + well during the floods. Hills of the usual quartz blocks, gravels, sand, + and clay lead, after 1 hr. 40 min. walking and collecting, at the rate of + two geographical miles an hour, to Mr. Crocker's second set of huts. They + were built on a level for shelter and resting-places before Apankru was in + existence, and were baptised 'Sierra Leone' by emigrants from the white + man's grave and the black man's Garden of Eden. + </p> + <p> + Beyond this settlement is a fine quartz hill, round the northern edge of + which the path winds to the little Kwansakru. This is a woman's village, + where the wives of chiefs who have mining-rights, accompanied by their + slaves, are stationed, to pan gold for their lazy husbands. In this way + may have arisen the vulgar African story of Amazon settlements. Messieurs + Zweifel and Moustier [Footnote: <i>Voyage</i>, &c., p. 115.] were told + by a Kissi man that twelve marches behind their country is a large town + called Nahalo, occupied only by the weaker sex. A man showing himself in + the streets, or met on the road, is at once put to death; however, some of + the softer-hearted have kept them prisoners, and the result may easily be + divined. All the male issue is killed and only the girls are kept. + </p> + <p> + Many large 'women's washings' of old date give us a hint how the country + should be worked. All along the line of the Aunábé white sands, the + tailings of natural sluices, have been deposited; the black sand sinking + by its own weight. I was unable to find out the extent of the French + concessions, and look forward to the coming day of compulsory definition + of boundaries and registration in Government offices. These grants are + mingled in inextricable confusion with those secured by 'Surgeon-Major Dr. + James Africanus Beale Horton, Esq.' + </p> + <p> + Soon after Kwansakru we exchanged the ordinary path for a mere thread in + the bush, leading to the southern end of Tebribi Hill. The name, according + to Mr. Sam, means 'when you hear, it shakes,' signifying that the thunder + reverberates from the heights owing to its steep side and gives it a + tremulous motion. This abrupt, cliff-like side is the western, where the + schistose gneiss is exposed for a thickness of 60 feet and more: the stone + is talcose, puddinged in places with quartz pebbles, and everywhere + showing laminations of black sand. The long oval mound of red clay, + overgrown with trees, and rising 295 feet above sea-level, is all + auriferous; but there are placers richer than their neighbours. Tebribi + was the favourite washing-ground of the Apinto Wásás; but the old shafts + were all neglected after the Dutch left, and no deep sinking was known + within the memory of man until the last twelve years. I passed a pit on + the western flank; the winch had been removed, and my people found it + impracticable: we descended to it by cut steps and followed a cornice, + mainly artificial, for a short distance to where its mouth opened. This + hole had been sunk 70 to 80 feet deep in the talcose stone; and it would + have been far easier and better to have driven galleries and adits into + the face of the rock. + </p> + <p> + We took fourteen minutes to clamber up the stiff side in the pelting rain, + with a tornado making ready to break. Ten minutes more, along the level, + and a total of three hours, placed us at Mr. Crocker's Bellevue House. I + had been asked to baptise it, and gave the name after a place in Sevenoaks + which overlooks the wooded expanse of the Kentish weald. The place being + locked up, we at once committed burglary; I occupied one of the two + boarded bedrooms with plank walls, and my men established themselves in + the broad and well-thatched verandah. When the view cleared we saw various + outliers of hill, all running nearly parallel and striking north with more + or less easting; the temperature was delightful, and between the showers + the breezes were most refreshing. At night a persistent rain set in and + ruined all chance of getting sights. + </p> + <p> + The next morning broke dull and grey with curtains of smoky fog and mist + hanging to the hills; and the heavy wet made the paths greasy and + slippery. Leaving Bellevue House, we walked along the whole length of the + ridge in half an hour; and, descending the north-western slope, we struck + the main thoroughfare—such as it is. Reaching the level, we found + more 'women's washings,' and the highly auriferous ground looked as if + made for the purpose of hydraulic mining. + </p> + <p> + Another half-hour along the lower flat led us to Burnettville, Crocker's + <i>Ruhe</i> No. 3. It is a large native-built house fronted by long narrow + quarters for negroes on the other side of the road. The path crossed + several streamlets trending north to the Aunábé, and a bad mud which had + seen corduroy in its better days. Blocks of quartz and slate protruded + between the patches of bog. We then traversed fairly undulating and + well-wooded ground, clay-stone coated with oxide of iron; we crossed + another small stream flowing northwards, and we began the ascent leading + to 'Government House, Tákwá.' It is also known as Mount Pleasant, Prospect + Mount, and Vinegar Hill. + </p> + <p> + The site facing the Effuenta mine is the summit of a long thin line about + 275 feet high. This queer specimen of official head-quarters was built by + the united genius of the owners of the ground, Mr. Commissioner Cascaden + and Dr. Duke. As before said the really comfortable house of boarding has + been bequeathed to the white ants at Axim by the Government of the Golden + Land, too poor to pay transport. Commissioner and doctor receive no + house-allowance, and according to popular rumour, which is probably + untrue, were graciously told that they might pig in a native hut in or + about Tákwá. Consequently they built this place and charge a heavy rent + for it. + </p> + <p> + Government House is a large parallelogram of bamboo. The roof is an + intricate mass of branches and tree-trunks, with a pitch so flat that it + admits every shower. Mr. Higgins was at once obliged to expend 10<i>l</i>.-12<i>l</i>. + in removing and restoring the house-cover. Under it are built two separate + and independent squares of wattle with plank floors raised a foot or so + off the ground; these dull and dismal holes, which have doors but no + windows, serve as sleeping-places. The rest of the interior goes by the + name of a sitting-room. The outer walls are whitewashed on both sides, and + between them and the two wattle squares is a space of 6 to 8 feet, adding + to the disproportionate appearance of the interior. Had it been divided + off in the usual way the tenement would have been much more comfortable. + There is a scatter of ragged huts, grandiosely designated as the barracks, + on the level space where the Haussas parade. When Mr. Higgins was making + himself water-tight, these lazy loons had the impudence to ask that he + would either have their lines mended or order new ones to be built. I + would have made them throw down their ramshackle cabins, knock up decent + huts, and keep them in good order. + </p> + <p> + Leaving Government House, I descended the steep incline of Vinegar Hill, + passed through the little Esanuma village, and crossed two streams flowing + south. One is easily forded; the eastern has a corduroy bridge 176 ft. + long, built to clear the muds on either side. I shall call this double + water the Tákwá rivulet, and shall have more to say about it on my return. + </p> + <p> + Another steep ascent placed me at the Effuenta establishment. I was now + paying my second visit to the far-famed Tákwá Ridge. It is a long line + running parallel with Vinegar Hill, but instead of being regular, like its + neighbour, it is broken into a series of small crests looking on the map + like vertebrć; these heights being parted by secondary valleys, some of + which descend almost to the level of the flowing water. Westward the + hog's-back is bounded by the Tákwá rivulet, rising in the northern part of + the valley. Eastwards there is a corresponding feature called by the + English 'Quartz Creek:' it breaks through the ridge in the southern + section of the Effuenta property and unites with the Tákwá. My aneroid + showed the height of the crest to be 260 feet above sea-level, and about + 160 above the valley. Mr. Wyatt has raised it to 1,400 feet—a + curious miscalculation. + </p> + <p> + At Effuenta I found Mr. MacLennan, the manager whom we last met at Axim. + Owing to the drowned-out state of 'Government House' he had given + hospitality to Messieurs Higgins and Roulston, and I could not prevent his + leaving his own sleeping-room for my better accommodation. I spent two + days with him inspecting the mine and working up my notes; during this + time Mr. Bowden, of Tákwá, and Mr. Ex-missionary Dawson passed through the + station; and I was unfortunate in missing the former. + </p> + <p> + 'Effuenta House' is a long narrow tenement of bamboo and thatch, divided + into six or seven rooms, and built upon a platform of stone and swish + raised seven feet off the ground. All the chambers open upon a broad + verandah, which shades the platform. The inmate was talking of rebuilding, + as the older parts were beginning to decay. He had just set up in his + 'compound' two single-room bamboo houses, with plank floors raised four + feet off the ground; these were intended to lodge the European staff. + Other bamboo huts form the offices and the stores. The Kru quarters are at + the western base of the hill; a few hands, however, live in the two little + villages upon the Tákwá rivulet. The Sierra Leone and Akra artificers + occupy their own hamlet between the Kru lines and the stamps. Last year + there was a garden with a small rice-field, but everything was stolen as + soon as it was fit to gather. + </p> + <p> + Next morning Mr. MacLennan led me to the diggings. This concession, which + is the southernmost but one upon the Tákwá ridge, contains one thousand by + two thousand fathoms; and desultory work began in 1880. The rock, a + talcose gneiss, all laden with gold, runs along the whole length of the + hill, striking, as usual, north 6ş east (true). In places it forms a + basset, or outcrop, cresting the summit; and the eastern flank is cliffy, + like that of the Tebribi. To get at the ore three shafts have been sunk on + the western slope of the ridge just below the highest part, and a passage + is being driven to connect the three. A rise for ventilation, and for + sending down the stone, connects this upper gallery with a lower one; and + the latter is being pushed forward to unite the three tunnels pierced + horizontally near the foot of the hill, at right angles to the lode. There + is also a fourth tunnel below the manager's house, which will be joined on + to the others. The three tunnels open westward upon a tramway, along which + the ore is carried to the stamps. I judged the output already made to be + considerable, but could not make an estimate, as it was heaped up in + different places. + </p> + <p> + The stamp-mill, lying to the extreme north of the actual workings, is + supplied with water by a leat from the eastern Tákwá rivulet. The twelve + head of stamps, on Appleby's 'gravitation system,' are driven by a + Belleville boiler and engine; this has the merit of being portable and the + demerit of varying in effective power, owing to the smallness of the + steam-chest. The battery behaves satisfactorily; only the pump, which is + worked by the cam-shaft, wants power to supply the whole dozen; + consequently another and independent pump has been ordered. Krumen, who + will never, I think, make good mine-workmen, are constantly employed in + washing the blankets as soon as they are charged; and the resulting black + sand is carried to the washing-house to be panned, or rather calabashed, + by native women. In time we shall doubtless see concentrating bundles and + amalgamating barrels. + </p> + <p> + The three iron-framed stamp-boxes discharge their sludge into two parallel + mercury- or amalgam-boxes, which Mr. Appleby declares will arrest 75 to 80 + per cent. of free gold. It then passes on to the distributing table, the + flow to the strakes being regulated by small sluices. Of the latter there + is one to each width of green baize or of mining-cloth made for the + purpose. The overflow of the sluices runs into a large tailing-tank of + board-work, with holes and plugs at different levels to tap the contents. + These tailings are also washed by women. + </p> + <p> + Finally, the mercury is squeezed through leathers and the hard amalgam is + sent for treatment to England. Retorting is not practised at present in + any of the mines. The only reduction-gear belongs to the Gold Coast Mining + Company; and some time must elapse before it is ready for use. My + discovery of native cinnabar will then prove valuable. + </p> + <p> + The Effuenta can now bring to bank, with sufficient hands, at least a + hundred tons a day of good paying ore; whereas the stamps can crush at + most one-tenth. When this section of the lode, about 200 fathoms, shall be + worked, there will still be the balance of 1,000. But even this fifth of + the property will supply material for years. The proportion of gold + greatly varies, and I should not like to hazard a conjecture as to + average, but an ounce and a half or two ounces will not be above the mark. + </p> + <p> + At present the manager works under the difficulty of wanting European + assistants. His mining-engineer and one mechanic lately left him to return + home; and he has only a white book-keeper, an English working-miner, and a + mechanic, besides a man who made his way from the coast on foot, and who + is now doing good, honest work. The progress made by Mr. MacLennan, during + his ten months of charge, has been most creditable. He has literally + opened the mine, the works of which were begun by M. Dahse. He has + personally supervised the transport and erection of all the machinery; and + at present, in addition to the ordinary managerial routine, he has to act + as chief of each and every department. Owing to his brave exertions the + future of the Effuenta mine is very promising: it will teach those to come + 'how to do it,' in contrast with another establishment which is the best + guide 'how <i>not</i> to do it.' If the Board prove itself efficient, this + property will soon pay a dividend. But half-hearted measures will go far + to stultify the able and energetic work I found on the spot. [Footnote: + This forecast has been unexpectedly verified with the least possible + delay. Perfect communication has been established between the shafts and + levels; and the mine can now (October 1882) turn out 100 tons a day at + five shillings. But imperfect pumps have been sent out, and the result is + a highly regretable block. Of the value of the mine there can be no + doubt.] + </p> + <p> + The northern extremity of the Tákwá ridge, whose length may be nine to ten + miles, remains unappropriated, as far as can be known. The furthest + concession has been made, I am told, to Mr. Creswick. South of the section + in question lies a property now in the hands of the late M. Bonnat's + executors: the grant was given to him as a wedding-present by his friends, + the chiefs. Report says that from this part of the lode, which is riddled + with native pits, came some of the specimens that floated the G. C. M. + Company. Succeeds in due order the African Gold Coast Company, French and + English, which was brought out in 1878. It is popularly and locally known + as the Tákwá (not 'Tarcquah') mine, from the large native village which + infests its grounds. I have described the Effuenta, its southern + neighbour. Beyond this again is a strip belonging to the Franco-English + Company; and, lastly, at the southern butt-end, divided by a break from + the main ridge, lies the 'Tamsoo-Mewoosoo mines of Wassaw.' The latter has + lately been 'companyed,' under the name of the 'Tacquah Gold Mines + Company,' by Dr. J. A. B. Horton and Mr. Ferdinand Fitzgerald, of the + famous 'African Times.' When its directors inform us that 'twenty ounces + of gold lately arrived from a neighbouring mine, the produce of stamping + of twenty-five tons of ore, similar to that of Tamsoo-Mewoosoo,' they may + not have been aware that the produce in question was worked from the + alluvial drift discovered, about the end May 1881, in the north-western + corner of the Swanzy estates. This drift has no connection with the Tákwá + ridge-lodes. + </p> + <p> + After morning tea on March 28 I bade a temporary adieu to my most + hospitable host, and walked along the ridge-crest to the establishment of + the Franco-English or African Gold Coast Company. Here I found only one + person, Dr. Burke, an independent practitioner, who is allowed lodging, + but not board. M. Haillot, of Paris, formerly accountant and book-keeper, + was in temporary charge of this mine and of Abosu during Mr. Bowden's + absence. I shall give further detail on my return march. Passing through + the spirit-reeking Tákwá village, where nearly every hovel is a 'shebeen,' + I walked along the valley separating the ridge from its western neighbour, + Vinegar Hill, and in half an hour entered the huts belonging to the Gold + Coast Mining Company. [Footnote: These gentlemen are still (October 1882) + doing hard and successful work at the mines.] Here I breakfasted with the + brothers Gowan, who had been left in charge by Mr. Creswick. My notes on + this establishment must also be reserved for a future page. + </p> + <p> + Twenty-five minutes' walking brought me to where the main road, a mere + bush-path, strikes across a gully separating two crests of the Tákwá + ridge. Then came a good stretch of level ground, composed of sand and + gravel of stained quartz, clothed with the ordinary second-growth. When + this ended I passed over the northern heads of two small <i>buttes</i> + which lie unconformably; the direction of their main axes lies + north-north-west, whereas all their neighbours trend to the + north-north-east. The climb was followed by a second level, bounded on the + left, or north, by the Abo Yáo Hill, the <i>emplacement</i> of the 'Mines + d'Or d'Aboassu.' Two branch paths lead up to it from the main line of + road. Near the western is a place chosen as a cemetery for Europeans; as + usual it is neglected and overgrown with bush. + </p> + <p> + Presently I arrived at the village of Abosu, a walk of about two hours + from the Tákwá mine. Ten months ago it contained forty to fifty head of + negroes; now it may number 3,000, although the May emigration had begun, + when the workmen return to their homes, being unable to labour in the + flooded flats. There was the hum of a busy, buzzing crowd, sinking pits + and shafts, some in the very streets and outside their own doors. This + alluvial bed must be one of the richest in the country; and it is wholly + native property under King Angu, of Apinto. There is little to describe in + the village; every hut is a kind of store, where the most poisonous of + intoxicants, the stinkingest of pomatum, and the gaudiest of + pocket-handkerchiefs are offered as the prizes for striking gold. There + are also a few goldsmiths' shops, where the precious metal is adulterated + and converted to coarse, rude ornaments. The people are able 'fences,' and + powder, fuses, and mining-tools easily melt into strong waters. Hence + Abosu is a Paradise to the Fanti police and to the Haussa garrison of + Tákwá. + </p> + <p> + I looked about Abosu to prospect the peculiarities of the place, where the + Sierra Leonite and the Cape Coast Anglo-nigger were conspicuous for + 'cheek' and general offensiveness. These ignoble beings did not spare even + poor Nero; they blatantly wondered what business I had to bring such a big + brute in order to frighten the people. Resuming my way along the flat by a + winding path, I came upon a model bit of corduroying over a bad marsh, + crossed the bridge, and suddenly sighted Mr. F. F. Crocker's coffee-mill + stamping-battery. It lies at the south-western end of a <i>butte</i>, one + of a series disposed in parallel ranges and trending in the usual + direction. All have quartz-reefs buried in red clay, and are well wooded, + with here and there small clearings. The names are modern—Crocker's + Reef to the east, Sam's Reef, and so forth. + </p> + <p> + Then I passed an admirably appointed saw-mill. At this distance from the + coast, where transport costs 24<i>l.</i> to 26<i>l.</i> a ton, carpenter's + work must be done upon the spot. A wide, clean road, metalled with gravel, + and in places bordered by pine-apples, led to store-houses of bamboo and + thatch, built on either side of the way. After walking from Effuenta seven + and a half geographical miles in three hours and forty-five minutes, I + reached the establishment known as Crockerville. It dates from 1879, and + in 1880 it forwarded its first remittance of 11<i>l.</i> 10<i>s.</i> to + England. The village was laid out under the superintendence of Mr. Sam, + the ablest native employé it has ever been my fortune to meet. He is the + same who, when District-commissioner of Axim, laid out the town and + planted the street-avenues. In conversation with me he bitterly derided + the native association formed at Cape Coast Castle for obtaining + concessions and for selling them to the benighted white man. He resolved + not to put his money in a business where all would be at loggerheads + within six months unless controlled by an European. + </p> + <p> + The houses are bamboo on stone platforms. One block is occupied by the + owner, and a parallel building lodges Mr. Sam and his wife, the two being + connected by an open dining-hall. The kitchen and offices lie to the north + and east. Further west are quarters for European miners, and others again + for Mr. Turner, now acting manager, and his white clerk. Furthest removed + are the black quarters, the huts forming a street. + </p> + <p> + Crockerville at present is decidedly short of hands. The number on the + books, all told, black and white, is only sixty-two: when the whole + property comes to be worked, divided and sub-divided, it will require + between a thousand and fifteen hundred. The hands are mostly country + people, including a few gangs employed to sink shafts. One gang lately + deserted, for the following reason. Two men were below charging the shots + from a heap of loose powder, whilst their friends overhead were quietly + smoking their pipes. A 'fire-'tick,' thrown across the shaft, burnt a + fellow's fingers, and he at once dropped it upon his brethren underground; + they were badly scorched, and none of the gang has been seen since. I + mention this accident as proving how difficult it is to manage the black + miner. The strictest regulations are issued to prevent the fatuous nigger + killing himself, but all in vain: he is worse, if possible, than his white + <i>confrčre</i>. If I had the direction all the powder-work should be done + by responsible Europeans. I would fire by electricity, the battery + remaining in the manager's hands, and no native should be trusted with + explosives. + </p> + <p> + Here I fell amongst old acquaintances, and was only too glad to remain + with them between Friday and Thursday. Mr. Turner gave me one of his + bed-rooms, and Mr. Crocker's sitting-room was always open by day. We + messed together, clerks, mechanics, and all, in the open dining-hall: this + is Mr. Crocker's plan, and I think it by far the best. The master's eye + preserves decorum, and his presence prevents unreasonable complaints about + rations. The French allow each European employé 4<i>s. </i>9<i>d.</i> a + day for food and hire of servants, and attempt most unfairly to profit by + the sale of provisions and wines. The consequence is that everything is + disjointed and uncomfortable: some starve themselves to save money; others + overdrink themselves because meat is scarce; and all complain that the sum + which would suffice for many is insufficient for one. + </p> + <p> + The Swanzy establishment has set up an exceptionally light battery of + twelve stamps, made in sections for easier transport. Neither here nor in + any of the mines have stone-breakers or automatic feeders yet been + introduced: the stuff is all hand-spalled. One small 'Belleville' drives + the stamps, another works the Tangye pump, and a third turns the + saw-mills. I will notice a few differences between the Swanzy system and + that of Effuenta. The wooden framework of the stamp-mill is better than + iron. The cam-shaft here carries only single, not double cams, a decided + disadvantage: in order to strike the same number of blows per minute it + has to make double the number of revolutions. Moreover, by some unhappy + mistake, it is too far from its work, and the result is a succession of + sharp blows on the tappets, with injury to all the gear. On the other hand + proper fingers are fitted to the stamps: this is far better than + supporting them by a rough chock of wood. At Crockerville, as at Effuenta, + only six of the twelve stamps were working: there the pump was at fault; + here the blanket-tables had not been made wide enough. I could hardly + estimate the total amount of ore brought to grass, or its average yield: + specimens of white quartz, with threads, strings, and lobs of gold, have + been sent to England from Crocker's Reef. The best tailings are reserved + either for treatment on the spot or for reduction in England. The mine, as + regards present condition, is in the stage of prospecting upon a large and + liberal scale. The stamps are chiefly used to run through samples of from + 50 to 100 tons taken from the various parts of the property: in this way + the most exact results can be obtained. During my visit they were + preparing to work a hundred tons from Aji Bipa, the fourth and furthest <i>butte</i> + to the north-west. + </p> + <p> + I visited this mound in company with Mr. Sam, who interpreted the name to + be that of the gambogefruit. We descended, as we had ascended, by the + stamping-battery, crossed the bridge, and then struck northwards, over the + third hillock, to No. 4. Unlike Crocker's Reef, Aji Bipa does not show + visible gold; its other peculiarities will best be explained by the report + I wrote on the spot. + </p> + <p> + This property is situated near Crockerville and can always be easily + reached from that place. In fact, the southern boundary marches with the + northern limit of the Crockerville estate. The rich gold-bearing lode is + situated on the western slope of the hill, and can be seen in all the + three shafts which have been sunk. The formation of the hill seems in many + respects to correspond with the Lingula flags at and near Clogau, + Dolgelli, and Gogafau. This formation is practically the same as that of + the range of hills on which the concessions of the Gold Coast Mining + Company, of the African Gold Coast Mining Company, of the Effuenta + Company, of the Mines d'Or d'Aboassu (Abosu), and the Tamsu concessions + are situated, and also as that of Tebribi Hill; but each of the three + areas has its own marked features. In all the rocks are talcose and show a + sort of conglomerate of quartz pebbles, in some cases water-worn and in + others angular, bedded in a mixture of quartz and granite detritus. This + has in the three areas undergone varying degrees of pressure, and has been + upheaved at different angles. In some cases the pressure and heat have + been so great that the rock assumes a distinctly gneissic character. + </p> + <p> + At Aji Bipa the lode runs N. 38ş E. (Mag.) in the centre shaft, and N. 40 + E. in the southern shaft, a sort of fault occurring in the centre shaft. + In the northern shaft I should put it at 38ş, but from the way in which + the neighbouring rock had cleaved it was difficult to get the strike + accurately. The dip is the same in all three shafts, viz. 82ş. The lode + being so near vertical, it can be clearly traced for the whole depth of + the shafts, and is very well defined. The hanging (eastern) wall is highly + coloured with iron oxides, and contains many quartz crystals which are + through-coloured with the same, and I do not think it at all unlikely that + garnets and other gems may be found in it. One or two minute crystals + showed a green colour, and might be tourmaline or emerald; but perhaps it + was only a surface-colour caused by the presence of copper. The foot wall + is very well marked by a strip of whitish yellow clay about an inch in + thickness. The rock on both sides of the lode is gold-bearing, and is + evidently, as well as the real lode, formed of the debris of old quartz + and granites. Talcose flakes are frequent, and in some places it seems to + be clearly gneiss. Although with a small plant it might not be profitable + to treat this, still with large and suitable machinery it may be made to + pay, and the trouble of separating the rich lode from the inferior stone + avoided. One remarkable trait in the lode is the manner in which it splits + into blocks and slabs, all the faces of the quartz pebbles being cloven in + precisely the same plane. + </p> + <p> + The length of the concession along the line of lode is 2,780 feet, and + from the way in which the lode stands on the western slope of the hill, + and the dip being eastward, I am of opinion that if a drift were put + through the hill other and parallel lodes would be found. Of course this + can only be proved by experience. + </p> + <p> + The thickness of the lode where I measured it varied from 22-1/2 to 25 + inches in the southern shaft; and although I saw one pinch in the + northern, and the fault in the centre one, it can easily be traced and + worked, and should prove most profitable. In the centre shaft it is 24 + inches, and in the northern 30 inches. + </p> + <p> + A curious sort of black substance occurs close to the line of clay which + defines the under side of the lode, and may be remnants of some vegetable + material; but with the means at my disposal I will not give any decided + opinion. + </p> + <p> + Over the rock which forms the main body of the hill lie the usual red clay + and oxidised quartz gravels, which, if treated by hydraulic mining, ought, + as it contains gold, to prove a paying stuff: moreover washing off the + surface-dirt would lay bare the rock and render all after-work easy and + simple. + </p> + <p> + The alluvials in the bottoms should here prove unusually rich, and means + might be adopted by which they should be raised mechanically and then + flumed down again. + </p> + <p> + Ample water supply exists both for hydraulic mining and reef-working; + there are good sites for all necessary machinery and building, and timber + as usual is to be had in any quantity that may be required. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> +The question of transport is of course a most important one, and in the +present state of the roads and country very expensive; but from the +route-survey I have made I am convinced that a cheap and efficient service +to the mines of this and neighbouring districts would be easily organised, +and that instead of paying, as at present, the absurd price of 4<i>s</i>. or +5<i>s</i>. per ton per mile, it could be reduced to an average of from 4<i>d</i>. to +6<i>d</i>. The shafts now open are— + South, 45 feet deep, 9 feet by 4 feet 9 inches. + Centre, 36 feet deep, 8 feet 6 inches by 4 feet 2 inches. + North, 45 feet deep, 8 feet by 5 feet 10 inches. +</pre> + <p> + This is both a most valuable and interesting piece of country to work, and + I hope that it may soon be provided with all necessary staff, plant and + machinery. + </p> + <p> + Rich returns may be confidently expected, and under proper management + should prove a most paying business. + </p> + <p> + The exploratory works now existing have been done in an honest and + businesslike manner, like all I have seen where Mr. Crocker and Mr. Turner + have worked; and the zeal and intelligence displayed by Mr. Sam could + scarcely be equalled and certainly not surpassed. + </p> + <p> + I have not said anything about the quantity of gold to the ton, as the + experimental crushings at Crockerville will enable a much more accurate + idea to be formed than any I could make from the hand-washings I saw done. + </p> + <p> + The boxes of specimens sealed by me are the result of blasts and + excavation done whilst I was on the spot. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> +[Footnote: TEMPERATURE, ETC., AT CROCKERVILLE. +Date Thermometer Bar. Rainfall + Max. Min. Inches Ins. +April 1 91ş 73ş 29.55 + " 2 91 75 29.50 0.06 + " 3 93 74 29.50 + " 4 90 73 29.50 + " 5 96 76 29.40 + " 6 91 71 29.45 3.02 + " 7 80 70 29.50 + " 8 75 71 29.55 + " 9 93 72 29.50 0.01 + " 10 92 73 29.50 + " 11 93 74 29.45 0.02 + " 12 94 72 29.50 0.09 + " 13 95 74 29.50 0.50 + " 14 96 74 29.50 + " 15 96 76 29.50 + " 16 88 74 29.45 + " 17 92 73 29.55 + " 18 89 74 29.55 + " 19 85 74 29.55 0.03 + " 20 91 73 29.60 0.47 + " 21 88 74 29.55 0.01 + " 22 93 74 29.60 0.03 + " 23 92 73 29.55 + " 24 94 73 29.50 0.28 + " 25 93 73 29.50 0.18 + " 26 93 73 29.50 0.26 + " 27 93 74 29.55 0.27 + " 28 88 74 29.50 + " 29 94 74 29.45 + " 30 93 74 29.40 0.26 +May 1 90ş 73ş 29.45 0.40 + " 2 90 72 29.45 0.74 + + " 3 81 72 29.50 + " 4 86 73 29.50 0.03 + " 5 88 73 29.55 0.04 + " 6 83 71 29.55 + " 7 89 73 29.50 0.05 + " 8 90 74 29.50 + " 9 91 73 29.45 + " 10 80 71 29.50 0.95 + " 11 89 73 29.45 0.06 + " 12 89 74 29.50 + " 13 94 73 29.35 0.01 + " 14 84 74 29.50 + " 15 89 72 29.50 2.90 + " 16 85 73 29.50 + " 17 79 72 29.60 1.23 + " 18 85 74 29.50 + " 19 82 74 29.55 0.06 + " 20 87 74 29.50 + " 21 88 70 29.50 0.30 + " 22 84 70 29.60 0.92 + " 23 88 72 29.60 0.02 + " 24 87 73 29.60 + " 25 86 72 29.60 1.23 + " 26 82 71 29.60 1.23 + " 27 86 71 29.60 1.54 + " 28 85 73 29.50 + " 29 88 73 29.60 + " 30 82 73 29.55 0.56 + " 31 82 72 29.55 +June 1 82 72 29.60 0.18 + " 2 82 72 29.60 1.05 + " 3 83 74 29.55 0.16 + " 4 84 73 29.65 0.05 + " 5 84 73 29.60 0.14 + " 6 84 73 29.55 + " 7 82 72 29.50 0.16 + " 8 82 72 29.65 + " 9 85 73 29.55 + " 10 84 73 29.69 + " 11 80 73 29.55 + " 12 81 72 29.60 + " 13 81 68 29.60 0.02 + " 14 85 66 29.60 + " 15 86 68 29.65 + " 16 86 68 29.60 + " 17 87 69 29.60 + " 18 83 70 29.60 + " 19 82 71 29.60 0.70 + " 20 79 72 29.65 0.14 + " 21 82 72 29.60 + " 22 85 72 29.65 0.03 + " 23 82 73 29.50 + " 24 75 71 29.65 2.20 + " 25 80 71 29.70 + " 26 86 71 29.70 + " 27 80 71 29.65 0.34 + " 28 81 71 29.65 + " 29 81 71 29.60 0.14 + " 30 78 70 29.65 +July 1 79 67 29.70 + " 2 79 68 29.65 + " 3 80 71 29.70 + " 4 86 72 29.70 0.60 + " 5 79 72 29.70 0.40 + " 6 81 71 29.60 0.17 + " 7 79 72 29.70 + " 8 81 71 29.70 + " 9 80 70 29.75 0.06 + " 10 79 72 29.60 + " 11 80 71 29.60 0.50 + " 12 80 72 29.60 + " 13 78 70 29.60 + " 14 79 70 29.65 + " 15 80 69 29.70 0.40 + " 16 83 70 29.70 + " 17 81 71 29.60 0.40 + " 18 80 71 29.60 + " 19 79 71 29.65 + " 20 79 70 29.55 + " 21 80 70 29.60 + " 22 80 71 29.60 0.02 + " 23 81 71 29.65 + " 24 80 71 29.65 + " 25 79 71 29.70 3.30 + " 26 79 70 29.70 + " 27 80 70 29.70 + " 28 85 71 29.70 + " 29 81 71 29.65 + " 30 78 70 29.65 0.70 + " 31 79 70 29.65 +Aug. 1 78 69 29.65 + " 2 83 72 29.70 + " 3 82 72 29.65 0.56 + " 4 80 70 29.65 + " 5 82 72 29.60 + " 6 79 70 29.60 0.28 + " 7 81 70 29.60 + " 8 80 70 29.60 + " 9 81 70 29.65 + " 10 82 70 29.65 0.40 + " 11 82 70 29.65 0.60 + " 12 81 68 29.65 + " 13 81 67 29.60 + " 14 80 69 29.70 + " 15 83 71 29.65 + " 16 81 69 29.65 + " 17 90 70 29.70 + " 18 86 71 29.65 + " 19 81 70 29.65 + " 20 85 68 29.70 + " 21 83 70 29.70 + " 22 80 70 29.65 + " 23 81 73 29.70 + " 24 84 71 29.65 + " 25 86 70 29.70 + " 26 82 70 29.70 + " 27 84 71 29.65 0.02 + " 28 84 71 29.70 0.01 + " 29 85 72 29.70 0.02 + " 30 86 70 29.70 + " 31 85 71 29.65 +Sept. 1 84 72 29.65 + " 2 85 72 29.66 + " 3 87 72 29.65 0.01 + " 4 86 73 29.66 0.15 + " 5 85 72 29.70 + " 6 80 72 29.70 0.15 + " 7 85 72 29.70 + " 8 86 71 29.60 0.18 + " 9 86 72 29.60 1.00 + " 10 80 72 29.70 0.01 + " 11 85 72 29.70 0.01 + " 12 85 73 29.65 + " 13 77 72 29.65 0.50 + " 14 79 72 29.65 0.40 + " 15 83 72 29.65 0.17 + " 16 82 71 29.65 0.46 + " 17 78 70 29.70 0.07 + " 18 86 72 29.55 0.12 + " 19 78 72 29.70 1.14 + " 20 87 72 29.60 0.43 + " 21 78 71 29.66 0.02 + " 22 78 70 29.65 0.30 + " 23 85 71 29.60 0.03 + " 24 85 72 29.70 + " 25 87 72 29.60 0.03 + " 26 84 72 29.60 0.24 + " 27 91 73 29.50 + " 28 89 71 29.50 + " 29 89 71 29.55 0.65 + " 30 91 72 29.65 + + <i>Meteorological Register.</i> + + 1880 + Average Tem. per Diem Total Rainfall per Month +April 79.00 — +May 78.40 8.27 +June 76.60 11.24 +July 74.79 3.44 +August 74.22 5.30 +Sept. 76.28 3.08 +Oct. 78.05 4.89 +</pre> + <p> + Highest temperature on May 21, 94ş (1880). + </p> + <p> + Lowest temperature on July 6 and 7, 65ş. + </p> + <p> + Highest rainfall in 24 hours on June 20, 3 25. + </p> + <p> + Highest variation in 24 hours on May 2 and 3 94ş-68ş = 26ş. + </p> + <p> + Lowest variation in 24 hours on May 14, 76ş-74ş= 20ş. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + 1881 + Average Tem. per Diem Total Rainfall per Month +April 83.65 5.89 +May 77.67 11.21 +June 76.73 7.08 +July 75.32 6.65 +August 76.46 1.89 +</pre> + <p> + Highest temperature on April 5 and 14, 96ş (1881). + </p> + <p> + Lowest temperature on June 14, 66ş. + </p> + <p> + Highest rainfall in 24 hours on July 25, 3 30. + </p> + <p> + Highest variation in 24 hours on April 14, 96ş-74ş = 22ş. + </p> + <p> + Lowest variation in 24 hours on June 24, 75ş-71ş = 4ş.] + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0013" id="link2HCH0013"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXIV. — TO THE MINES OF ABOSU, OF THE 'GOLD COAST,' AND OF + THE TÁKWÁ + </h2> + <h3> + ('AFRICAN GOLD COAST') COMPANIES. + </h3> + <p> + On April 6 I reached the Mine d'Or d'Aboassu, this being my second visit. + The first, on the previous Sunday, had been more interesting in the point + of anthropological than of geological study. The day of rest had been + devoted to a general jollification by most of the whites, and the blacks + had ably followed suit. The best example was set by the doctor attached: + he was said to have emptied sixty-two bottles of cognac during his + twenty-three days of steamer-passage. But, brandy proving insufficient, he + had recourse to opium, chloral, and bromide of potassium, a pint and a + half of laudanum barely sufficing for the week. I need hardly say where + the abuse of stimulants and opiates lands a man, either in Western Africa + or in England. + </p> + <p> + From the Abosu village and its abominations I turned sharp to the + north-west, and ascended the steep western flank of Abo Yáo, whose highest + point is 312 feet above sea-level. The distance from Crockerville is a + mile and three-quarters, or a mile in a straight line, and from Tákwá, + about six. M. Dahse increases the latter to nine miles, the difference of + latitude being three and a quarter miles, and of longitude four. My map + will be the first to correct these distances, which are exaggerated by the + native carriers to get more pay. + </p> + <p> + The summit of Abo Yáo commands an extensive view to the north. Here the + range of vision is about sixteen miles over the greenest of second + growths; and the whole is dotted with <i>buttes</i> of red clay, somewhat + lower than 'On the Stone' (<i>Abosu</i>). It is easy to see that here + again we have an ancient archipelago, like that which formerly fringed the + shore of Axim, but of older formation. In fact, I should not expect to + find a true coast before entering the grassy zone north of the great belt + of forest. Each hill must carry at least one core of auriferous reef. The + intervening valleys, gullies, and gulches, seldom more than a hundred feet + above ocean-level, have been warped up by gradual deposition from the + north, and are doubtless full of rich alluvium. This might be worked by + steam-navvies, and washed upon the largest possible scale; the result + would be excellent ground for plantations. + </p> + <p> + I look upon Abosu as an eastern outlier of the greater Tákwá ridge. But + although the hill preserves the normal direction the reef lies almost at + right angles to it, crossing the upper end and striking from north 40ş + west to south 40ş east. I am unable to divine what caused this curious + dislocation. The gold matrix is still the Tákwá gneiss, rarely showing + visible metal. Possibly the present diggings have struck only a large + branch or a break. + </p> + <p> + Here mining-operations have been extensive, and about 1,800 tons of rich + stuff have already been brought to bank. The diggings begin with an open + cut of 110 feet; this leads to a tunnel in the rock partly timbered, by + which the lode with a dip of 41ş is bisected. Eastward from the tunnel a + gallery has been driven 147 feet along the vein, and westwards there is a + similar passage of 202 feet. About 140 feet on either side of the tunnel + two rises, one 16, the other 12 feet long, are being driven up the slope + of the reef. On the hill-side above the tunnel a shaft 80 feet deep has + been sunk, but it has not struck the vein: for some peculiar reason the + bottom is made broader than the top; and the mining-captain has a shrewd + idea that, like the native pits of similar form, it may end by 'caving + in.' Again, a second tunnel has just been opened in the southern end of + the <i>butte</i>, the engineer hoping to find the main lode lying + conformably, or north with easting. + </p> + <p> + A little above the northern foot of the Abo Yáo the native workmen are + employed in making a large platform, or terrace, for stamps and other + machinery; now it is about 150 × 40 yards. As yet there is no power. A + large open shed of timber-posts, with a roofing of corrugated iron, stands + ready to receive the expected saw-mill. The only actual industry is + digging. + </p> + <p> + At Abosu the <i>personnel</i> is lodged in bamboo-houses scattered over + the hill-side, and the settlement contrasts dismally with the orderly + comfort of Crockerville. M. Haillot, acting manager of Abosu and Tákwá, + leads a caravan-life between the two. Fortunately for him the distance is + inconsiderable. I here met Mr. Symonds, a Cornish miner, who has worked in + Mexico, and who speaks Spanish fluently, enabling him to converse with M. + Plisson. He was one of our fellow-passengers, and he rejoiced exceedingly + to see me. He and his youngster, Mr. Mitchell, who suffers from + chest-complaint, praised the prospects of the mine, but did not enjoy + their pay being cut for passage and the system of ration-money. Another + unwise plan adopted by the French Company is to stipulate upon twenty + working-days, each of ten hours per mensem, in default of which salaries + undergo proportional deduction. This makes the miner work even when he is + unfit for exertion. White labour, however, is confined to superintendence + and to laying out and building tunnels. A Swiss, M. Schneuvelly, acts as + general superintendent, and he is assisted by two French <i>ouvriers</i>. + The hands are chiefly Krumen. The style of working is decidedly 'loafy,' + and the pipe is touched at all hours and in all places. + </p> + <p> + North of Abosu lies the Dahse concession, a square of 1,000 fathoms, to be + worked by an Anglo-German company. I know it only by hearsay and by seeing + it upon the owner's map. + </p> + <p> + M. Haillot invited me to be his guest, and I spent my day in the mine. + Next morning (April 8) we retraced our steps towards Tákwá, halting by the + way at the northernmost establishment on the ridge, the 'Gold Coast Mining + Company (Limited).' This concession, an area of 1000 x 500 fathoms, on the + west of the hill-height, does not as yet show much progress; and the works + seem to have increased but little since last year. There are two shafts + and two tunnels to strike the lode. The ore brought to grass was not in + large quantities, although I had heard to the contrary. The stone is said + to be abnormally rich, yielding seven ounces of gold to the ton; but I did + not think it richer than its neighbours, and I suspect that it will have + to be rated at one-seventh. The manager's house, also on the west of the + hill, consists of one large room of plankage, raised on posts and + thatched. The brothers Gowan, who are working exceedingly hard, and Mr. + Kenyon, who is leaving for England, were the only white men I saw. The + hands are chiefly Kruboys and the artificers Sierra Leonites. Since Mr. + Creswick's departure for Europe some changes have been made. Mr. Growan, + the acting manager, has transferred the future works to a higher level, + and has fitted up a reduction-office where there is, at present, nothing + to reduce. Crucibles and chemicals are ranged round a long room with an + iron roof. The tenant has borrowed a mortar-box, two stamp-heads, shoes, + and dies, and has fitted them with wooden stems and cam-shafts. He + proposes to drive them by two-man power, in order to crush three tons of + ore per diem and to test a new patent amalgamator. + </p> + <p> + I breakfasted with the scanty staff and then walked down the western + valley to the Tákwá establishment, the oldest of the new mining-industries + in the Protectorate. I place the African Gold Coast Company, by + calculation, in N. lat. 18ş 20' and W. long. (Gr.) 1ş 57' 40". It is + therefore fifteen direct geographical miles from Tumento instead of + thirty; twenty-seven (not sixty) from Axim, and thirty-five from Dixcove, + formerly supposed to be the nearest port. This position will make an + important difference in sundry plans and projects which were made under + old and erroneous ideas of its topography. At present the cost of + transport from Tumento to Effuenta is 6<i>d.</i> for 10 lbs., 8<i>d.</i> + to Tákwá, and 10 <i>d.</i> to Abosu. + </p> + <p> + The head of the valley shows a single stream, the Babeabárbawo or Tákwá + rivulet, rising close to the works of the Gold Coast Company. It is + swollen by small tributaries from either side; and, just below the + settlement, an eastern dam with a small sluice has been thrown across the + valley of the Franco-English company. As there is plenty of water in and + near the mine, they should cut at once this abominable dam, which forms a + pestilential swamp, the cess-pool of the neighbourhood. The Tákwá + settlement, a line of bamboo and swish huts well built enough, lies, like + a hamlet in Congo-land, along the winding road. It is bare of trees, but + here and there a shaft yawns before the doors. M. Dahse makes the + population before 1879 to have been 6,000 souls, and in 1881 about 3,000. + I should reduce the latter figure to 600, and propose for 1882, before the + May emigration, 1,500 to 1,600. The people are Coast-men and islanders of + every tribe, with a fair sprinkling of dissolute ruffians, 'white + blackmen,' from Sierra Leone and Akra, drunken Fanti policemen, and + plundering Haussa soldiers. The ex-manager of the Effuenta mine says, in + allusion to his early residence there, 'So wird Einem das Leben daselbst + zu einer wahren Hölle;' and he rightly describes the peculiar industries + of these true infernal regions as 'Schnappskneipen, Spielhöllen und + Schlimmeres.' Almost every house combines the pub. and the agapemone: all + the chief luxuries of the Coast-'factories' are there, and the 'blay' + (basket) of Sierra Leone comes out strong. Brilliant cottons and kerchiefs + hang from the normal line; there is pomatum for the lucky dandy and tallow + for the miner down in his luck; whilst gold-dust is conjured from pouch or + pocket by pipes and tobacco, needles and thread, beads, knives, and other + notions. + </p> + <p> + The northern part of this veritable 'Nigger Digger's Delight' is now + comparatively deserted: some chief died there, and the people have crowded + into the main body of the settlement. The village of Kwábina Angu, King of + Eastern Apinto, is now joined to Tákwá. I could not distinguish the + 'Palast' of King Kwámi Enimill, who rules western Wásá, and whose capital + is Akropong. + </p> + <p> + M. Haillot had preceded me in a hammock, and welcomed me to his quarters. + He occupied one of the three or four raised plank-houses; another lodged + Dr. Burke, and a third M. Voltaire, Mr. Carlyon, another young Cornishman, + who came out with us, and sundry French <i>ouvriers</i>. A large + bamboo-house had been built for a general restaurant: it became a barrack + during the 'Ashanti scare,' and now it is quite unused. Standing farther + back are the very respectable tenements of the same material, with broad + verandahs, occupied at times by Mr. Ex-missionary Dawson and family. The + negro quarters are mostly in the Tákwá village. + </p> + <p> + The 'Father of the African Mines,' dating from 1878, lies on the northern + third of the celebrated Tákwá ridge, and its concession embraces an area + of 1000 x 2000 fathoms. The rich auriferous reef is the backbone of a long + narrow line of hill whose diameter ranges between 1,000 feet to 600 where + it is pinched. The lode strikes to the north-north-east with a dip of 47ş + west. The angle of underlay, I may remark, greatly varies in these Gold + Coast reefs; some are nearly vertical (82ş), others are moderately + inclined (20ş to 50ş), and others run almost flat. The richest part, not + including the broken-off ore, is from eighteen inches to two feet broad. + It is decidedly more than 'one to two hundred years old,' as reported home + by a scientific official on the spot. The 'coffins,' or abandoned native + diggings, must date from at least two centuries ago. The natives scraped + off the gold-bearing stone till the water drove them out. The formation is + upper Silurian or lower Devonian, a transition to gneiss, but not highly + metamorphic. No fossils have yet been found: if any exist they would be + microscopic. Where talcose it is bluish, and shows streaks of 'black + sand,' titaniferous iron. The grey sand washes to white. There are + pot-holes which have been filled with either a pudding or a breccia of + quartz. In places the gneiss has been so little changed by heat and + pressure that it forms arenaceous flags and shales. It suggests a deposit + in some ancient lagoon, alternately fresh and salt. A hard fissile slate + of purple colour is based upon the ground-rock of grey granite; there is + also a modern clay-slate, which lies unconformably to the older, and + through it the great veins of gneiss and quartz seem to pass. The alluvial + detritus, which fills up the valleys to their present level, is formed by + the diluvium of the hills: in parts these bottoms show strata, from one to + three feet thick, of water-rolled pebbles bedded in clay. Here and there + the couch must be a hundred feet deep, and the whole should be raised for + washing by machinery. These strata were apparently deposited in a lagoon + of more modern date. + </p> + <p> + The gold is sometimes visible in the gneiss; and I have seen pieces whose + surface is dotted with yellow spots resembling pyrites. It is often in the + form of spangles called float-gold and flour-gold. Select specimens have + yielded upwards of eight ounces to the ton. If the blanketings and first + tailings be properly treated, it should afford an average of at least an + ounce and a half per ton. Treating a hundred tons a day gives a sum of + 30,000 per annum; and, assuming 6<i>l</i>. of gold to the ton, we have a + total of 180,000<i>l</i>. The working of this section of the mine should + not exceed 30,000<i>l</i>. a year, which leaves a net gain of 150,000<i>l</i>. + </p> + <p> + The <i>Bergwerke</i> consist of four tunnels driven into the lower part of + the western hill-side, further down than the bottom of the abandoned + native workings. They are eccentrically disposed in curves and other queer + figures. All abut upon galleries running in sections along the lode-line, + and intended ultimately to connect. The total length may be a thousand + feet. Being cut in the gneiss, they require no timbering; but the floors + are little raised above the level of the rivulet, and water percolates + through roofs and walls. The latest tunnel has been driven past the new + gallery, and has struck a second lode; this has never been worked by the + natives, and stoping to above the springs may be found advisable. + Ventilation is managed by means of the old abandoned native shafts. A very + large quantity of ore is brought to bank. I found it hard to form an + estimate, because it was in scattered heaps overgrown with vegetation; but + I should not be surprised if it amounted to 5,000 tons. This means that + want of proper machinery has resulted in a dead capital of from 20,000<i>l</i>. + to 30,000<i>l</i>. + </p> + <p> + A space has been cleared on the level of the trams uniting the mouths of + the tunnel, and here will be placed the 'elephant-stamps' actually on + their way out. They have now two batteries, each of six head, worked by + the same shaft: the steam-engine, as usual, is the Belleville. The + material is bad; the gratings, on the levels of the dies, have been + smashed by the stones bombarding them, and the ill-constructed foundations + of native wood are eaten by white ants. Yet they have done duty for only + eighteen months. The sludge was treated in fancy amalgamators, especially + in one with a pan and revolving arms, probably evolved out of the inner + consciousness of some gentleman in Paris. The result was discharging + upwards of 1,500 lbs. of mercury into the valley below. A little amalgam + was obtained, and proved that the rock does contain gold—a fact + perfectly well known for centuries to the natives. + </p> + <p> + The history of the 'African Gold Coast' Mine in the hands of + Franco-English shareholders has already been noticed. M. Bonnat preferred + reworking the old native diggings to the virgin reefs lying north and + south of them. Some of the latter can be worked for years without pumping; + on the others the plant will be expensive. But the Company, instead of + mining, has gone deeply into concession-mongering, and their grants are + scattered broadcast over the country. One of them, the 'Mankuma,' near + Aodua, the capital of Eastern Apinto, extends twenty-six miles, with a + depth of 500 yards on either bank of the Ancobra River above the mouth of + the Abonsá influent. These gigantic areas will give rise to many lawsuits, + and no man in the country has power to make such a grant. The ownership of + the land is vested in a 'squirearchy,' so to speak, and only the + proprietors have a right to sell or lease. When gold is worked the + 'squire' takes his royalty from the miner, and he or his chiefs must in + turn pay tribute to the 'king.' Hence the money may pass through three or + four hands before reaching its final destination. + </p> + <p> + These indiscriminate concessions will be very injurious to the future of + the Protectorate, and should be limited by law. At present the only use is + to sell them to syndicates and companies, and so to pay a fictitious + dividend to the <i>actionnaires</i>. Evidently such a process is rather on + the 'bear and bull' system of the stock-market than legitimate mining. + </p> + <p> + I was well acquainted with the late M. Bonnat, a bright, cheery little + Frenchman of great energy, some knowledge of the Fanti, or rather the + Ashanti, language, and perfect experience of the native character. Born at + a village near Macon, he began life as a cook on board a merchant ship; he + soon became agent to some small French trading firm, and then pushed his + way high up the unexplored Volta River. Here the Ashantis barred his + passage, and eventually took him prisoner as he attempted to cross their + limits; he was carried to Kumási, where he remained in confinement for + three years. When the war of 1873-1874 set him at liberty he passed + through Wásá to Europe, and by his local information, and that gathered in + captivity, he secured the public ear for the gold-mines. His later + proceedings are well known, and some of their unfortunate results are best + unrelated. + </p> + <p> + I met M. Bonnat last in June 1881; he was then going up to Tákwá in + company with Messieurs Bowden and Macarthy, and I was canoeing down the + Ancobra on my way home. He was suffering severely from a carbuncular boil + on the thigh, which he refused to have properly opened. His death, which + occurred within a fortnight, is usually attributed to pleuro-pneumonia, + but I rather think it was due to blood-poisoning. He had been exposing + himself recklessly for some months, and two drenchings in the rain brought + him to his end; yet there are people who remember his visit to the + forbidden fetish-valley of Apatim. The father of the modern gold-mines, + the Frenchman who taught Englishmen how to work their own wealth, lies + buried at Tákwá; I did not see his tomb. + </p> + <p> + The two French mines, Tákwá and Abosu, have at last agreed to join hands + and to become one. The capital has been fixed at 250,000<i>l</i>., and + Paris will be the head-quarters. Mr. Arthur Bowden, the manager, has been + sent for to, and has now returned from France: it is to be hoped that his + extensive experience will instil some practical spirit into the new + Directory. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0014" id="link2HCH0014"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXV. — RETURN TO AXIM AND DEPARTURE FOR EUROPE. + </h2> + <p> + I awoke on Saturday, April 9, in bad condition, and during the afternoon + had my third attack of fever, the effect of the dam and its miasma. + Wanting change of air, and looking forward to Effuenta, I set off in my + hammock and found my friends. The tertian lasted me till Monday, Sunday + being an 'off-day;' and, as the Tuesday was wet and uncomfortable, I + delayed departure till Wednesday morning. My 'Warburg' had unfortunately + leaked out: the paper cover of the phial was perfect, but of the contents + only a little sediment remained. Treatment, therefore, was confined to + sulphate of quinine and a strychnine and arsenic pill; arseniate of + quinine would have been far better, but the excellent preparation is too + economical for the home-pharmist, and has failed to secure the favour of + the Coast-doctors. One of my friends has made himself almost fever-proof + by the liberal use of arsenic; but I can hardly recommend it, as the + result must be corrected by an equally liberal use of Allan's anti-fat. + Burton, who has studied its use amongst the Styrian arsenic-eaters, denies + that this is the common effect: he found that it makes the mountaineer + preserve his condition, wind and complexion, arms him against ague, and + adds generally to his health. He is still doubtful, however, whether it + shortens or prolongs life. + </p> + <p> + On Wednesday, April 12, I left Effuenta after morning tea. My hospitable + host had nearly seen the last of his stores, to which he had made me so + cordially welcome; and there were no signs of fresh supplies, although + they had long been due. This is hardly fair treatment for the hard-working + employé: let the Company look to it. With a certain tightening of the + heart I made over my canine friend, Nero, to Dr. Roulston. He had lost all + those bad habits which neglected education had engrafted upon the heat of + youth. He now began to show more fondness for sport than for + sheep-worrying; and he retrieved one bird, carrying it with the utmost + delicacy of mouth. + </p> + <p> + I set out on foot for Vinegar Hill, and found that the steep eastern + ascent from the Tákwá ridge had been provided with a series of cut steps + by Mr. Commissioner: in these lands, as elsewhere, new brooms sweep clean; + but they are very easily worn out. This place has been for years the + 'black beast' of travellers, especially in rainy weather, when the rapid + incline becomes so slippery that even the most sure-footed slither and + slide. + </p> + <p> + After crossing the Abonsá Hill I took to my hammock and was carried + through rain, and a very devilry of weather, into the Abonsá village. The + whole path was shockingly bad and muddy. Once more I became a lodger of + Mr. Crocker's; his house, being as usual far the best, gave us good + shelter for the night. + </p> + <p> + Next morning (7.30) we set out down the Abonsá stream in a small canoe + belonging to Mr. MacLennan. The natives made the usual difficulties; the + craft (which was quite sound) could not float, and amongst other things + she had no paddles: for this, however, I had provided by making my men cut + them last evening. Almost immediately after leaving this head of + navigation, barred above by a reef and a fall, we saw that eternal + mangrove. Presently the Aunábé creek broke the line of the right bank. Our + course was as usual exceedingly tortuous, turning to every quadrant of the + compass; and, during the last fortnight, the water-level had risen four + feet. The formation of the trough is that of the Ancobra, and the bed + bristles with rocks. In a distance of seven miles and a half by course + there were four small breaks, and one serious rapid about a hundred yards + long, where the decline exceeded five feet. Here the men had to get + overboard and to ease the canoe down the swirling waters, which dashed + heavily on the rocks. The snags were even thicker than on the upper + Ancobra, and were far more dangerous than on the St. John's. In places the + mangrove fallen from the banks had taken root in the river-bed. In fact, + unless some exertion be soon made, even the present insufficient channel + will be blocked up. + </p> + <p> + At the Abonsá <i>embouchure</i> Mr. Wyatt's map, copied from M. Dahse, + shows an island backed by a ridge running nearly east-west. I found no + river-holm, and only a small broadening of the Ancobra to about double its + usual breadth. The banks at the sharp angle of junction are, however, low; + and, perhaps, my predecessor saw them when flooded. The Mankuma Hill, on + the right bank, belonging to the Franco-English Company, is somewhat + taller than its neighbours: as usual in this silted-up archipelago, it + trends from the north-east to the south-west. + </p> + <p> + I had already shot the Ancobra River when paddling up, and was not over + lucky when coming down. The big kingfisher did not put in an appearance, + and the sun-birds equally failed me: the smallest item of my collection + measures two and a quarter inches, and is robed in blue, crimson, and + sulphur. I was fortunate enough to bring home four specimens of a rare + spur-plover (<i>Lobivanellus albiceps</i>): they are now in Mr. Sharp's + department of the British Museum. I killed a few little snakes and one + large green tree-snake; two crocodiles, both lost in the river, and an + iguana, which found its way into the spirit-cask. A tzetze-fly (<i>Glossina + morsitans</i>) was captured in Effuenta House, curiously deserting its + usual habit of jungle-life in preference to a home on clear ground: its + dagger-like proboscis, in the grooved sheath with a ganglion of muscles at + the base, assimilated it to the dreaded and ferocious cattle-scourge which + extends from Zanzibar to the Tanganyika Lake and from Kilwa (Quiloa) to + the Transvaal. My kind friend and hospitable host Dr. (now Sir) John Kirk, + who did the geography and natural history for the lamentable Zambeze + expedition, met it close to the Victoria Falls. Burton also sent home a + specimen from the Gold Coast east of Accra. + </p> + <p> + Mr. MacLennan gave me sundry beetles, but insisted on retaining one which + is the largest I ever saw. The hunting-dog must scour the bush in packs, + for the voice is exactly that of hounds. The laugh of the hyćna and the + scream of the buzzard are commonly heard. The track of a 'bush-cow' once + crossed my path: the halves of the spoor were some five inches long by + three wide, and the hoofs knuckled backwards so as to show false hoofs of + almost equal size. I was unable to procure for Dr. Günther a specimen of + the 'bush-dog,' as the Kruboys call it: last year I was bringing home a + live one in the s.s. <i>Nubia</i>; but one day the fellow in charge + reported that it was dead and had been thrown overboard. I hold it to be a + tailless lemur, the <i>galago</i> of the East Coast. The French name is <i>orson</i>, + the popular idea being that it is an ursine. The Fanti peoples, whose + 'folk-lore' is extensive, and who have some tale about every bird, beast, + and fish, thus account for the loud cries which we heard at night in every + 'bush.' King Leo, having lost his mother, commanded by proclamation all + his subjects to attend her funeral, and none failed save Orson. One + evening his Feline Majesty, when going his rounds, found the delinquent + upon the ground, and roughly demanded the reason why. Orson, shuffling + towards the nearest tree, pleaded in all humility, 'O King, is thy beloved + parent really deceased? I never heard of it. I am so sorry; I would never + have failed to show the respect due to the royal house.' When he had + climbed the foot of the tree his tone began to alter. 'But, Sire, if thy + Majesty hath lost a mother, I see no cause compelling me to attend her + funeral.' And when quite safe the change was notable. 'Bother the old + woman! very glad she is dead, and may her grave be defiled!' These people + know the stuff of which courtiers are made. + </p> + <p> + My collection of specimens from the mines and the river-beds filled a + dozen cases. The butterflies, of which we collected a large number, were + all spoilt by the moth for want of camphor. 'Insect-powder' had been our + only preservative. I had also a thirty-gallon cask of plants preserved in + spirits, two boxes well stuffed, a large case of orchids, and a raceme of + the bamboo-palm (<i>Raphia vinifera</i>), whose use has still to be found. + The animals, including insects in tubes, filled nearly two kegs and three + bottles, and I had two small cases of stuffed birds, the handiwork of Mr. + Dawson. + </p> + <p> + Of stone-implements I was lucky enough to secure thirty-six, and made over + four of them to my friend Professor Prestwich. They are found everywhere + throughout the country, but I saw no place of manufacture except those + noted near Axim. Mr. Sam, of Tumento, promised to forward many others to + England. The native women search for and find them not only near the beds + of streams, but also about the alluvial diggings. Nearly all are shaped + like the iron axe or adze of Urúa, in Central Africa, a long narrow blade + with rounded top and wedge-shaped edge. This tool is either used in the + hand like a chisel, or inserted into a conical hole burnt through a + tree-branch, and the shape of the aperture makes every blow tighten the + hold. The people mount it in two ways, either as an axe in line with, or + as an adze at a right angle to, the helve. + </p> + <p> + At Akankon I obtained from Mr. Amondsen a stone-implement of novel shape, + not seen by me elsewhere. A bit of the usual close-grained trap had been + cut into a parallelopiped seven and a half inches long with a flat head + one inch and a half in diameter and a bevel-edge of two inches and + one-third along the slope. This part had been chipped ready for grinding, + and the article was evidently unfinished; one side still wanted polishing, + and the part opposite the bevel showed signs of tapering, as if a point + instead of an edge had been intended. At Axim I split off by gads and + wedges a large slice of the grooved rocks described by Burton; it came + home with me, and is now lodged in the British Museum. + </p> + <p> + The rest of my story is told in a few words. I canoed safely down the + Ancobra River, and reached Axim on April 14. This return was made sad and + solitary by the absence of my canine friend, Nero. + </p> + <p> + A week soon passed away at the port of the Gold-region. Mr. Grant + presently returned from his excursion to the west. He showed me fine + specimens of gold collected at Newtown, the English frontier-settlement + immediately east of French Assini. I had also warned him to look out for, + and he succeeded in finding, beds of bitumen permeated with petroleum: + this material will prove valuable for fuel and for asphalting, if not for + sale. My time was wholly taken up with papering and repacking my + collection, which had now assumed formidable proportions, and time fled + the faster as the days were occupied in also fighting an impertinent + attack of ague and fever. + </p> + <p> + On April 24 the B. and A. s.s. <i>Loanda</i> (Captain Brown) anchored in + the roads. Mr. Grant accompanied me on board, and showed himself useful + and energetic as usual. At Cape Palmas we shipped the Honourable Doctor + and Professor Blyden. He pointed out to me certain hillocks on the coast + about Grand Bassá, where he said gold had lately been found. The lay of + the land and the strike and shape of the eminences reminded me strongly of + those I had left behind me. The 'Secretary of the Interior,' who had been + compelled to leave his college, assured me that if wiser counsels prevail + Liberia will abandon her old Japanese policy of exclusion, and will open + her ports to European capital and enterprise. At Sierra Leone I called + upon Governor Havelock, who was recovering from the accident of a + dislocated shoulder. Both he and the 'Governess' were in the best of + health. At Madeira, on May 12, my companion Burton joined us, and we had a + week of dull passage to Liverpool. As we left on Friday and carried a + reverend gentleman on board, the cranky old craft was sorely tossed about + for two successive days, and we were delayed off the Liverpool bar, + arriving on the 20th instead of the 18th of May, 1882. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2H_CONC" id="link2H_CONC"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CONCLUSION. + </h2> + <p> + The journey and the voyage ended, as such things should do, with a dinner + of welcome at the Adelphi, given to us by our hospitable friend Mr. James + Irvine. And here we had the first opportunity of delivering the message + which we had brought home from the Golden Land. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2H_APPE" id="link2H_APPE"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + APPENDIX I + </h2> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0018" id="link2H_4_0018"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + §1. THE ASHANTI SCARE. + </h2> + <p> + That fears of an Ashanti attack upon the mines of the Gold Coast + Protectorate are rather fanciful than factual we may learn from the + details of the Blue Book 'Gold Coast, 1881.' The 'threatened Ashanti + invasion,' popularly termed the 'Ashanti scare,' did abundant good by + showing up the weakness of that once powerful despotism, and the + superiority in numbers and in equipment of the coastlanders over the + inlanders. It is true that there are tribes, like the Awunahs of the + Volta, and villages, like Béin in Apollonia, which still sympathise with + our old enemy. But only the grossest political mismanagement, like that + which in 1876 abandoned our ally, the King of Juabin, to the tender + mercies of his Ashanti foeman, aided by the unwisest economy, which + starves everything to death save the treasure-chest, will ever bring about + a general movement against us. + </p> + <p> + On December 1, 1880, died, to the general regret of native and stranger, + Mr. Ussher, Governor and Commander-in-Chief of the Gold Coast; a veteran + in the tropics and an ex-commissariat officer, whose political service + dated from 1861. In British India a change of rulers is always supposed to + offer a favourable opportunity for 'doing something,' often in the shape + of a revolt or a campaign. The same proved to be the case in West Africa, + where the Ashanti is officially described as 'crafty, persistent, + mendacious, and treacherous.' + </p> + <p> + It may easily be imagined that after the English victories at Amoaful and + Ordusu in 1873-74 the African despotism sighed for <i>la revanche</i>. The + Treaty of Fománá, concluded (February 13), after the capture (February 4) + and the firing (February 6) of Kumasi, between Sir Garnet Wolseley and the + representative of the King, Kofi Kalkali, or Kerrikerri, subsequently + dethroned, stripped her of her principal dependencies—lopped off, in + fact, her four limbs. These were the ever-hostile province of Denkira, + auriferous Akim, Adansi, and lastly Assin, now part of our Protectorate. + The measure only renewed the tripartite treaty of April 27, 1831, when + King Kwáko Dúa, in consideration of free access to the seaboard, and in + friendship with the unfortunate and ill-treated Governor (George) Maclean, + 'renounced all right or title to any tribute, or homage, from the Kings of + Denkira, Assin, and others formerly his subjects.' But <i>nulla fronti + fides</i> is the rule of the hideous little negro despotism, which, in + 1853, again invaded the coveted lands on its southern frontier, Assin. + </p> + <p> + The treaty of 1874, moreover, compelled Ashanti formally to renounce all + pretensions to sovereignty over Elmina and the tribes formerly in + connection with the Dutch Government. It vetoed her raids and forays upon + neighbouring peoples; like Dahome she had her annual slave-hunts and the + captives were sold for gold-dust to the inner tribes. The young officers + who replaced the veterans of the war would naturally desire, in Kafir + parlance, to 'wash their spears.' Nor are they satisfied with the defeats + sustained by their sires. 'I believe,' wrote Winwood Reade, 'that Sir + Garnet Wolseley attained the main object of the expedition, namely, the + securing of the Protectorate from periodical invasion. Yet still I wish + that the success had been more definite and complete.' The wish is echoed + by most people on the coast; and the natives still say, 'White man he go + up Kumasi, he whip black boy, and then he run away.' + </p> + <p> + It is regretable that the Commander-in-Chief, if he could not occupy + Kumasi himself, did not leave Sir John H. Glover in charge, and especially + that he did not destroy the Bantama (royal place of human sacrifice), + [Footnote: Sir Garnet Wolseley's admirable conduct of the Egyptian + campaign, where he showed all the qualities which make up the sum of + 'generalship,' have wiped out the memory of his failures in Ashanti and + Kafir-land. Better still, he has proved that the British soldier can still + fight, a fact upon which the disgraceful Zulu campaign had cast + considerable doubt. But the public ignores a truth known to every + professional. Under an incompetent or unlucky commander all but the best + men will run: the worst will allow themselves to be led or driven to + victory by one they trust. Compare the Egyptian troops under old Ibrahim + Pasta, and under Arabi, the Fe-lah-Pasha.] or at least remove from it the + skull of Sir Charles Macarthy. [Footnote: Captain Brackenbury throws doubt + upon the skull being preserved in the Bantama; but his book is mainly + apologetic, and we may ask, If the cherished relic be not there, where is + it? The native legend runs thus: 'And they took him (<i>i.e.</i> Macarthy) + and cut off his head, and brought it to their camp and removed the brains; + but the skull, which was left, they filled it with gold, and they roasted + the whole body and they carried it to Ashanti.... And the head, which they + bore to Ashanti, has become their "fetish," which they worship till this + day.'—Native account of Macarthy's death, Zimmermann's <i>Grammar of + the Accra or Ga Language</i>, Stuttgart, 1858.] And yet we now learn that + the campaign did good work. Captain Lonsdale, who has spent some time in + Kumasi, reports that the Caboceers have built huts instead of repairing + their 'palaces.' Moreover, he declares that the story of sacrificing girls + to mix their blood with house-swish is a pure fabrication; the Ashantis + would no longer dare to do anything so offensive to the conqueror. + </p> + <p> + Last on the list of solid Ashanti grievances is her exclusion from the + seaboard. Unknown to history before A.D. 1700, the Despotism first invaded + the Coast in 1807, when King Osai Tutu Kwámina pretended a wish to recover + the fugitive chiefs Chibbu and Aputai. These attacks succeeded one another + at intervals of ten years, say the Fantis. The main object was to secure a + port on the coast, where the inlanders could deal directly with the white + man, and could thus escape the unconscionable pillaging, often fifty per + cent. and more, of the Fanti middleman. This feeling is not, indeed, + unknown to Europe: witness Montenegro. I see no reason why the people + should not have an 'Ashantimile' at the Volta mouth; and I shall presently + return to this subject. + </p> + <p> + Hardly was Governor Ussher buried than troubles began. Mr. Edmund Watt, a + young District-commissioner at Cape Coast Castle, officially reported to + Lieutenant-Governor W. B. Griffith, subsequently Administrator of Lagos, + that Opoku, 'King' of Bekwa (Becquah), had used language tending to a + breach of the peace. This commander-in-Chief of the Ashanti forces in + 1873-74 had publicly sworn in his sober senses at Kumasi, and in presence + of the new king, Kwámina Osai Mensah, that he would perforce reduce + Adansi, the hill-country held to be the southern boundary of Ashanti-land. + Such a campaign would have been an infraction of treaty, or at least a + breach of faith: although the province is not under the protection of the + Colonial Government, King Kofi Kalkali [Footnote: This ruler succeeded his + father, King Kwáko Dúa, in 1868; and his compulsory abdication is + considered to have been an ill-advised measure.] had promised to respect + its independence and to leave it unmolested. + </p> + <p> + Lieutenant-Governor Griffith lost no time in forwarding the report to the + Colonial Office, adding sundry disquieting rumours which supported his + suspicions. Missionaries and merchants had observed that certain + 'messengers,' or envoys, sent from Kumasi to acknowledge the presents of + the late Governor Ussher, were lingering without apparent reason about + Cape Coast Castle, after being formally dismissed. Moreover, their + residing in the house of 'Prince Ansah,' a personage not famous for plain + dealing, boded no good. + </p> + <p> + A new complication presently arose. Prince Owusu, nephew of the King and + heir to the doughty Gyáman kingdom, fled from Kumasi to the Protectorate, + and reached Elmina on January 18. He appeared in great fear, and declared + that a son of the chief Amankwá Kwomá and three 'court-criers,' or + official heralds, were coming down to the coast on a solemn mission to + demand his extradition. They carried, he said, not the peaceful cane with + the gold or silver head, but the mysterious 'Gold Axe.' Opinions at once + differed as to the import and object of this absurd implement. According + to some its mission portended war, and it had preceded the campaigns of + 1863 and 1873. Others declared that it signified a serious 'palaver,' + being a strong hint that the King would cut through and down every + obstacle. Strange to say, the first Ashanti messengers were never called + upon to explain before the public what the 'Gold Axe' really did mean. + </p> + <p> + The Colonial Office acted with spirit and wholesome vigour. It was urged + on by Mr. Griffith, whose energetic reports certainly saved the + Protectorate grave troubles. He has thereby incurred much blame, ridicule, + and obloquy; nor has he received due credit from those under whom he + served. + </p> + <p> + The newly-appointed Governor and Commander-in-Chief of the Gold Coast, Sir + Samuel Rowe, at once ordered out to relieve Mr. Griffith, left England in + mid-February. He was accompanied by a staff of seven officers temporarily + employed. Reinforcements were hurried from Sierra Leone and the West + Indies. The Admiralty was applied to for the reunion of cruisers upon the + Gold Coast waters. Estimates of native allies were drawn up, showing that + 20,000 half-armed men could be brought into the field against the 30,000 + of Ashanti. The loyal and powerful chief Kwámina Blay, of Atábo, in + Amrehía, or Western Apollonia, offered 6,000 muskets, and an additional + 1,000 hands if the Government would supply arms and ammunition. + </p> + <p> + On January 19 the ambassador with the 'Gold Axe' presented himself at + Elmina. He was accompanied by Saibi Enkwiá, who had signed the treaty at + Fománá, a village in Assin, between Kumasi and the Bosom Prah River. The + envoy formally demanded possession of Prince Owusu and of one Amangkrá, an + Ashanti trader who had aided him to escape. Saibi Enkwiá added by way of + threat, 'The King said, if the Governor would not order the return of + Owusu to Kumasi, he would attack the Assins.' He further explained that + these Assins were the people who always caused 'palavers' between the + Ashantis and the Protectorate, to which they belonged. + </p> + <p> + Naturally the ignominious demand was refused. The messengers left for + Kumasi, and Lieutenant-Governor Griffith telegraphed from Madeira to + England (January 25), 'War imminent with Ashanti.' It was considered + suspicious that all the inlanders were disappearing from the coast. This + was afterwards explained: they were flocking north for the 'native + Christmas,' the Yam-custom, or great festival of the year. + </p> + <p> + Our preparations were pushed forward the more energetically as time + appeared to be tight. The Ashantis were buying up all the weapons they + could find when the sale of arms, ammunition, and salt was prohibited. + Detachments were despatched to the Mansu and Prahsu stations; the latter + is upon the Bosom (Abosom, or Sacred) Prah, the frontier between Ashanti + and the Protectorate, to cross which is to 'pass the Rubicon.' Here, as at + other main fords and ferries, defensive works were laid out. Arrangements + were made for holding nine out of the eighteen forts, abandoning the rest; + and Accra was strengthened as the central place. The 'companies,' or + 'native levies,' who, with a suspicious unanimity, applied for guns and + gunpowder, lead and flints, were urged to the 'duty of defence.' Five + cruisers, under Commander (now Captain, R.N.) J. W. Brackenbury, were + stationed off the three chief castles, Elmina, Cape Coast, and Anamabo, + and the naval contingent was drilled daily on shore. The Haussa + constabulary was reinforced. The First West India Regiment sent down men + from Sierra Leone, and the Second 500 rank and file from Barbadoes. In + fact, such ardour was shown that the Ashantis, scared out of their + intentions of scaring, began to fear another English invasion. 'The white + men intend to take Kumasi again!' they said; and perhaps the reflection + that 48,000 ounces of gold were still due to us suggested a motive. They + had been making ready for offence; now they prepared for defence. + </p> + <p> + About mid-February the 'situation' notably changed. Messieurs Buck and + Huppenbauer, two German missionaries who were making a 'preaching-tour,' + reported from Kumasi that King Mensah was afraid of war, and that his + kingdom was 'on the point to go asunder.' The despot, with African + wiliness, at once threw the blame of threatening Assin upon his confidant, + Saibi Enkwiá. No one believed that an Ashantiman would thus expose himself + to certain death; but the explanation served for an excuse. The King also + asserted that his 'Gold Axe' meant simply nothing. Thereupon the officials + of the Protectorate began looking forward to an ample apology, and to a + fine of gold-dust for the disturbing of their quiet days. In fact, they + foresaw 'peace with honour.' + </p> + <p> + Governor Sir Samuel Rowe, with his usual good fortune, landed at Elmina on + March 9, exactly the right time. The attempt to intimidate had ignobly + failed, and had recoiled upon the attempter. King Mensah, in order to + remove all suspicions of intending a campaign, had resolved to send + coastwards the most important and ceremonious mission of the age. It was + to conclude a kind of <i>Paix des Dames</i>. Queen Kokofu had threatened + that in case of hostilities she would go over to the British. The + Queen-mother, a power in the country, which has often kept the peace for + it and plunged it into war, threatened to take her own life—and here + such threats are always followed by action. In fact, the peace-party had + utterly overthrown the war-party. + </p> + <p> + The mission left Kumasi in May. It was headed by Prince Bwáki, step-father + to the two royal brothers, Kofi Kalkali and Kwábina Osai Mensah, and the + number as well as the high rank of the retinue made it remarkable. At + Prahsu, where the envoys were met by Governor Rowe, a preliminary + conversation took place. Despite the usual African and barbarian fencing + and foiling, the Englishman carried the day; the message must be delivered + with all publicity and proper ceremony in the old 'palaver-hall' of + historic Elmina Castle. + </p> + <p> + A conclusive interview took place on May 30. Prince Bwáki explained that + 'mistakes had been made, but that the mistakes had not been alone those of + his king and son-in-law.' He declared that the messenger, Saibi Enkwiá, + had exceeded his powers in threatening Assin. The King, he said, had sworn + by 'God and earth,' that is, by the 'spirits' above and by the ghosts + below, that he had sent no such message. At the same time the King + confessed being partly to blame, as the message had been delivered by his + own servant. In the matter of the 'Gold Axe,' however, the mistake was the + mistake of the Lieutenant-Governor (Griffith). + </p> + <p> + The Prince further explained that Ashanti has two symbols of war, a + peculiar sword and a certain cap; whereas the 'Gold Axe' being 'fetish' + and endowed with some magical and mysterious power, is never sent on a + hostile errand. He offered, in the King's name, as further evidence of + friendly feeling, to surrender the 'so-called Golden Axe,' which important + symbol of Ashanti power had been forwarded from head-quarters with an + especial mission. It was delivered on the express understanding that it + should be despatched to England for the acceptance of H.B. Majesty, and + not be kept upon the coast, exposed to the ribaldry of the hostile Fantis. + The weapon, said Prince Bwáki, is so old that no one knows its origin, and + it is held so precious that in processions it precedes the Great Royal + Stool, or throne, of Ashanti. The leopard-skin, bound with gold upon the + handle, symbolises courage in the field; the gold is wealth, and the iron + is strength. + </p> + <p> + Finally, the unhappy 'Gold Axe,' after being publicly paraded upon a + velvet cushion through the streets of Elmina, was entrusted to Captain + Knapp Barrow, who returned to England by the next steamer. It was duly + presented, and found its way to the South Kensington Museum, after faring + very badly at the hands of the 'society journals' and other members of the + fourth estate. [Footnote: For instance: 'The gold axe of King Koffee of + Ashantee, lately sent, for an unexplained reason, to the Queen, is + described as a triangular blade of iron, apparently out from a piece of + boiler-plate, roughly stuck into a clumsy handle of African oak. The + handle is covered with leopard-skin, part of which, immediately above the + blade, is deeply soiled, apparently with blood. Bands of thin gold, + enriched with uncouth chevrons and lunettes <i>en repoussé</i>, are placed + round the handle. The sheath of the blade, which is of tiger (leopard) + skin, accompanies this hideous implement, and attached to it is the sole + element which has anything like artistic merit. This is a nondescript + object of beaten gold, in shape something like a large cockle-shell with + curved horns extending from the hinge, and not inelegantly decorated with + lines and punctures, <i>en repoussé</i> and open work of quasi-scrolls.'] + Needless to say it was an utter impostor. The real Golden Axe is great + 'fetish,' and never leaves either Kumasi or, indeed, the presence of the + King. + </p> + <p> + The ceremony of delivering the message in the palaver-hall was + satisfactory. Prince Bwáki grasped the knees of Governor Rowe, the + official sign of kneeling. He expressed the devotion of his liege lord to + the Majesty of England; and finally he offered to pay down at once two + thousand ounces of gold in proof of Ashantian sincerity. All these + transactions were duly recorded; the promises in the form of a bond. + </p> + <p> + The play was now played out; cruisers and troops dispersed, and golden + Peace reigned once more supreme. Prince Owusu, a drunken, dissolute + Eupatrid, who had caused the flutter, when ordered on board a man-of-war + for transportation to a place of safety, relieved the Gold Coast from + further trouble. He was found hanging in the 'bush' behind Elmina Castle. + Most men supposed it to be a case of suicide; a few of course surmised + that he had been kidnapped and murdered by orders from Kumasi. + </p> + <p> + Since that time to the present day our Protectorate has been free from + 'scare.' The affair, as it happened, did abundant good by banishing all + fear for the safety of the Wásá (Wassaw) diggings. During the worst times + not a single English employé of the mines had left his post to take refuge + in the Axim fort. This does them honour, as some of the establishments lay + within handy distance of the ferocious black barbarians. + </p> + <p> + The native chiefs, especially 'King Blay,' proved themselves able and + willing to aid us in whatever difficulties might occur. The kingdom of + Gyáman further showed that it can hold its own against shorn Ashanti, or + rather that it is becoming the more powerful of the two. The utter failure + of the scare is an earnest that, under normal circumstances, while King + Mensah, a middle-aged man, occupies the 'stool,' we shall hear no more of + 'threatened Ashanti invasions.' + </p> + <p> + But the true way to pacify the despotism is to allow Ashanti to 'make a + beach'—in other words, to establish a port. This measure I have + supported for the last score of years, but to very little purpose. The + lines of objection are two. The first is in the mercantile. As all the + world knows, commercial interests are sure to be supported against almost + any other in a reformed House of Commons; and, in the long run, they gain + the day. The Coast-tribes under our protection are mere brokers and + go-betweens, backed up and supported by the wholesale merchant, because he + prefers <i>quieta non movere</i>, and he fears lest the change be from + good to bad. I, on the other hand, contend that both our commerce and + customs would gain, in quantity as well as in quality, by direct dealings + with the peoples of the interior. The second, or sentimental, line belongs + to certain newspapers; and even <i>their</i> intelligence can hardly + believe the <i>ad captandum</i> farrago which they indite. The favourite + 'bunkum' is about 'baring the Christian negro's throat to the Ashanti + knife.' But the Fantis and other Coast-tribes were originally as murderous + and bloodthirsty in their battles and religious rites as their northern + neighbours: if there be any improvement it is wholly due to the presence + and the pressure, physical as well as moral, of Europeans—of + Christians, if you like. Even Whydah is not blood-stained like Agbóme, + because it has been occupied by a few slavers, white and brown. Why, then, + should the Ashantis be refused the opportunity and the means of amendment? + Ten years' experience in Africa teaches me that they would be as easily + reformed as the maritime peoples; and it is evident that the + sentimentalist, if he added honesty and common sense to the higher + quality, should be the first to advocate the trial. + </p> + <p> + But I would not allow the Ashantis to hold a harbour anywhere near Elmina. + They should have their 'mile' and beach east of the Volta River, where + they would soon effect a lodgment, despite all the opposition of their + sanguinary friends and our ferocious enemies the Awunah and the Krepi + (Crepee) savages. + </p> + <p> + I will end this paper with a short notice of the kingdom of Gyáman, + generally written Gaman and too often pronounced 'Gammon.' Its strength + and vigour are clearly increasing; it is one of the richest of + gold-fields, and it lies directly upon the route to the interior. Of late + years it has almost faded from the map, but it is described at full length + in the pages of Barbot (1700) and Bosman (1727), of Bowdich (1818), and of + Dupuis (1824). They assign to it for limits Mandenga-land to the north and + west; to the south, Aowin and Bassam, and the Tando or eastern fork of the + Assini to the east. This Tando, which some moderns have represented as an + independent stream, divides it from Ashanti-land, lying to the south and + the south-east. Dupuis places the old capital, Bontuko, whence the Gyámans + were formerly called 'Bontukos,' eight stages north-west of Kumasi; and + the new capital, Huraboh, five marches beyond Bontuko. The country, level + and grassy, begins the region north of the great forest-zone which + subtends the maritime mangrove swamps. It breeds horses and can command + Moslem allies, equestrian races feared by the Ashantis. + </p> + <p> + The Gyámans, according to their tradition, migrated, or rather were + driven, southwards from their northern homes. This was also, as I have + said, the case with the Fantis and Ashantis; the latter occupied their + present habitat about 1640, and at once became the foes of all their + neighbours. King Osai Tutu, 'the Great,' first of Ashanti despot-kings + (1719), made Gyáman tributary. The conquest was completed by his + brother-successor, Osai Apoko (1731), who fined Abo, the neighbour-king, + in large sums of gold and fixed an annual subsidy. Gyáman, however, + rebelled against Osai Kwájo (Cudjoe), the fourth of the dynasty (1752), + and twice defeated him with prodigious slaughter. The Ashanti invader + brought to his aid Moslem cavalry, and succeeded in again subjugating the + insurgents. The conquered took no action against the fifth king, but they + struck for independence under Osai Apoko II (1797). Aided by Moslem and + other allies, they crossed the Tando and fought so sturdily that the enemy + 'liberally bestowed upon them the titles of warlike and courageous.' The + Ashantis at length compelled the Moslems of their country to join them, + and ended by inflicting a crushing defeat upon the invaders. + </p> + <p> + Osai Tutu Kwámina, on coming to the throne (1800), engaged in the campaign + against Gyáman called, for distinction, the 'first Bontuko war.' He + demanded from King Adinkara his ancestral and royal stool, which was + thickly studded and embossed with precious metal. The craven yielded it + and purchased peace. His brave sister presently replaced it by a seat of + solid gold: this the Ashanti again requisitioned, together with a large + gold ornament in the shape of an elephant, said to have been dug from some + ruins. The Amazon replied, with some detail and in the 'spade' language, + that she and her brother should exchange sexes, and that she would fight + <i>ŕ l'outrance</i>; whereupon the Ashanti, with many compliments about + her bravery, gave her twelve months to prepare for a campaign. + </p> + <p> + In 1818 Dupuis found Ashanti engaged in the 'second Bontuko war' with + Adinkara, who had again thrown off his allegiance. But small-pox was + raging in the capital, and this campaign ended (1819-20) with the defeat + and death of the womanly monarch, with a massacre of 10,000 prisoners, and + with the sale of 20,000 captives. Thus Gyáman was again annexed to + Ashanti-land as a province, instead of enjoying the rank of a tributary + kingdom; and the conqueror's dominions extended from Cape Lahou (W. long. + 4ş 36') through Gyáman to the Volta River (E. long. 0ş 42' 18"), a + coast-line of some 318 direct geographical miles. + </p> + <p> + Gyáman, however, seems to have had a passion for liberty. She fought again + and again to recover what she had lost in 1820; and, on more occasions + than one, she was successful in battle. During the 'Ashanti scare' the + sturdy kingdom was preparing for serious hostilities; and a little war of + six or seven months had already been waged between the neighbours. The + late Prince Owusu, before mentioned, deposed before the authorities of our + Protectorate as follows: 'At Kumasi I was ordered to eat the skull of the + late King of Gyáman, which was kept there as a trophy from the conquest of + Gyáman; but I did not do it.' He also asserted that, in 1879, a white man, + Nielson, and his interpreter, Huydecooper, had been sent by an intriguer + to Gyáman, bearing a pretended message from the British Government and the + Fanti chiefs, enjoining the King to conclude peace with the Ashantis, and + to restore their 3,700 captives. Neither of these men saw the ruler of + Gyáman, and it is believed that Nielson, having begun a quarrel by firing + upon the people, was killed in the fray. + </p> + <p> + At this moment Gyáman is battling with her old enemies, and threatens to + be a dangerous rival, if not a conqueror. Here, then, we may raise a + strong barrier against future threats of Ashanti invasion, and make + security more secure. The political officers of the Protectorate will be + the best judges of the steps to be taken; and, if they are active and + prudent, we shall hear no more of the Kumasi bugbear. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0019" id="link2H_4_0019"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + §2. THE LABOUR-QUESTION IN WESTERN AFRICA. + </h2> + <p> + In their present condition our African colonies are colonies only because + they are administered by the Colonial Office. + </p> + <p> + Most of these stations—for such they should be termed—were + established, for slaving purposes, by the Portuguese, and were conquered + by the Dutch. Thence they passed into the hands of England, who vigorously + worked the black <i>traite</i> for the benefit of her West Indian + possessions. + </p> + <p> + The 'colonies' in question, however, saw their occupation gone with negro + emancipation, and they became mere trading-ports and posts for collecting + ground-nuts, palm-oil, and gold-dust. Philanthropy and freedom expected + from them great things; but instead of progressing they have gradually and + surely declined. The public calls them 'pest-houses,' and the Government + pronounces them a 'bore.' Travellers propose to make them over to Liberia + or to any Power that will accept such white elephants. + </p> + <p> + Remains now the task of placing upon the path of progress these wretched + West African 'colonies,' and of making them a credit and a profit to + England, instead of a burden and an opprobrium. + </p> + <p> + Immigration, I find, is <i>le mot de l'énigme</i>. + </p> + <p> + Between 1860 and 1865 I studied the labour-question in West Africa, and my + short visit in 1882 has convinced me that it is becoming a vital matter + for our four unfortunate establishments, Bathurst, Sierra Leone, the Gold + Coast, and Lagos. + </p> + <p> + A score of years ago many agreed with me that there was only one solution + for our difficulties, a system of extensive coolie-importation. But in + those days of excited passions and divided interests, when the export + slave-trade and the <i>émigration libre</i> were still rampant on either + coast, it was by no means easy to secure a fair hearing from the public. + Not a small nor an uninfluential section, the philanthropic and the + missionary, raised and maintained the cuckoo-cry, 'Africa for the + Africans!'—worthy of its successor, 'Ireland for the Irish!' Others + believed in imported labour, which has raised so many regions to the + height of prosperity; but they did not see how to import it. And the + general <i>vis inertić</i>, peculiar to hepatic tropical settlements, + together with the unwillingness, or rather the inability, to undertake + anything not absolutely necessary, made many of the colonists look upon + the proposal rather as a weariness to the flesh than a benefit. A chosen + few steadily looked forward to it; but they contented themselves with a + theoretical prospect, and, perhaps wisely, did not attempt action. + </p> + <p> + The condition of the Coast, however, has radically changed during the last + two decades. The export slave-trade has died the death, never to + 'resurrect.' The immense benefits of immigration are known to all men, + theoretically and practically. India and China have thrown open their + labour-markets. And, finally, the difficulty of finding hands, for + agriculture especially, in Western Africa has now come to a crisis. + </p> + <p> + Here I must be allowed a few words of preliminary explanation. In this + matter, the reverse of Europe, Africa, whose social system is built upon + slavery, holds field-work, and indeed all manual labour, degrading to the + free man. The idea of a 'bold peasantry, its country's pride,' is utterly + alien to Nigritia. The husband hunts, fights, and trades—that is to + say, peddles—he leaves sowing and reaping to his wives and his + chattels. Even a slave will rather buy him a slave than buy his own + liberty. 'I am free enough,' he says; 'all I want is a fellow to serve + me.' The natives of the Dark Continent are perfectly prepared to + acknowledge that work is a curse; and, so far scripturally, they deem + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Labour the symbol of man's punishment. +</pre> + <p> + No Spaniard of the old school would despise more than a negro those + new-fangled notions glorifying work now familiar to stirring and bustling + North Europe. Nor will these people exert themselves until, like the + Barbadians, they must either sweat or starve. Example may do something to + stir them, but the mere preaching of industry is hopeless. I repeat: their + <i>beau idéal</i> of life is to do nothing for six days in the week and to + rest on the seventh. They are quite prepared to keep, after their fashion, + 365 sabbaths per annum. + </p> + <p> + In the depths of Central Africa, where a European shows a white face for + the first time, the wildest tribes hold markets once or twice a week; + these meetings on the hillside or the lake-bank are crowded, and the din + and excitement are extreme. Armed men, women, and children may be seen + dragging sheep and goats, or sitting under a mat-shade through the + livelong days before their baskets and bits of native home-spun, the whole + stock in trade consisting perhaps of a few peppers, a heap of palm-nuts, + or strips of manioc, like pipe-clay. This savage scene is reflected in the + comparatively civilised stations all down the West African coast, where + the inexperienced and ardent philanthrope is apt to suppose that the lazy, + feckless habits are not nature-implanted but contracted by contact with a + more advanced stage of society. + </p> + <p> + Again, in many parts of Africa the richest lands, and those most + favourably situated, are either uninhabited or thinly peopled, the result + of intestine wars or of the export slave-trade. Mr. Administrator + Goulsbury, of Bathurst, during his adventurous march from the Gambia to + the Sierra Leone River, crossed league after league of luxuriant ground + and found it all desert. He says, [Footnote: Blue Book of 1882, quoted in + Chap. X.] 'I think the fact has never been sufficiently recognised that + Africa, and especially the west coast of the continent, is but very + sparsely populated.... It is not only very limited, but is, I believe, if + not stationary, actually decreasing in numbers.... I commend this fact to + the consideration of those who indulge in day-dreams as to the almost + unlimited increase of commerce which they fondly imagine is to be the + result and reward of opening up the interior of the country.' + </p> + <p> + In regions richer than the Upper Gambia the disappearance of man is ever + followed by a springing of bush and forest so portentous that a few hands + are helpless and hopeless. Such is the case with the great wooded belt + north of the Gold Coast, where even the second-growth becomes impenetrable + without the matchet, and where the swamps and muds, bred and fed by + torrential rains, bar the transit of travellers. The Whydah and Gaboon + countries are notable specimens of once populous regions now all but + deserted. + </p> + <p> + Nothing more surprising, to men who visit Africa for the first time, than + the over-wealth of labour in Madeira and its penury on the Western Coast. + At Bathurst they find ships loading or unloading by the work of the Golah + women, whose lazy husbands live upon the hardly-earned wage. They see the + mail-steamers landing ton after ton of Chinese rice shipped <i>viâ</i> + England. The whole country with its humid surface and its reeking, + damp-hot climate is a natural rice-bed. The little grain produced by it is + far better than the imported, but there are no hands to work the ground. + It is the same with salt, which is cheaper when brought from England: no + man has the energy to lay out a salina; and, if he did, its outlay, under + 'Free Trade,' would be greater than its income. + </p> + <p> + Steaming along the picturesque face of the Sierra Leone peninsula, the + stranger remarks with surprise that its most fertile ridges and slopes + hardly show a field, much less a farm, and that agriculture is confined to + raising a little garden-stuff for the town-market. The peasant, the hand, + is at a discount. The Sierra Leonite is a peddler-born who aspires to be a + trader, a merchant; or he looks to a learned profession, especially the + law. The term 'gentleman-farmer' has no meaning for him. Of late years a + forcing process has been tried, and a few plantations have been laid out, + chiefly for the purpose, it would appear, of boasting and of vaunting the + new-grown industry at home. Mr. Henry M. Stanley remarks [Footnote: <i>Coomassie + and Magdala</i>, p. 8], 'In almost every street in Sierra Leone I heard + the voice of praise and local prayer from the numerous aspirants to + clerkships and civil service employ; but I am compelled to deny that I + ever heard the sound of mallet and chisel, of mortar, pestle, and trowel, + the ringing sound of hammer on anvil, or roar of forge, which, to my + practical mind, would have had a far sweeter sound. There is virgin land + in the neighbourhood of Sierra Leone yet untilled; there are buildings in + the town yet unfinished; there are roads for commerce yet to be made; the + trade of the African interior yet waits to be admitted into the capacious + harbour of Sierra Leone for the enrichment of the fond nursing-mother of + races who sits dreamily teaching her children how to cackle instead of how + to work.' + </p> + <p> + The same apathy to agriculture prevails in Liberia. For the last forty + years large plantations have been laid out on the noble St. Paul River + between Cape Mount and Mount Mesurado. The coffee-shrub, like the + copal-tree, belts Africa from east to west—from Harar, where I saw + it, through Karagué, where it grows wild, the bean not being larger than a + pin's head, to Manywema, in the Congo valley, and to the West Coast, + especially about the Rio Nunez, north of Sierra Leone. It is of the finest + quality, second only to the Mocha; but what hope is there of its + development? The Váy tribe, which holds the land, is useless; the rare new + comers from America will work, but the older settlers will not; and there + is hardly money enough to pay Krumen. + </p> + <p> + On the Gold Coast there is no exceptional scarcity of population: under + normal circumstances, the labour-market is sufficiently supplied, but a + strain soon exhausts it. Sir Garnet Wolseley found his greatest difficulty + in the want of workmen: he was obliged to apply for 500 British navvies; + and, at one time, he thought of converting the first and second West India + Regiments, with Wood's and Russell's men, into carriers. On the other + hand, the conduct of the women was admirable; as the conqueror said in the + Mansion House, he hardly wondered at the King of Dahome keeping up a corps + of 'Amazons.' I shall presently return to the gold-mines. + </p> + <p> + At Lagos M. Colonna, Consular Agent for France, informs me that by his + firm alone 600 hands are wanted for field-service, and that the number + might rise to a thousand. He would also be glad to hire artisans, + blacksmiths and carpenters, masons and market-gardeners. The Yorubas from + the upper country, who will engage for three years, demand from a franc to + a shilling per diem, rations not given. Labour ranges from sixteen to + twenty-four francs per mensem; and coolies could not command more than + twenty-five francs, including 'subsistence.' Here Kruboys are much used. + M. Colonna pays his first-class per mensem $5 (each =5 francs 20 + centimes), his second class $4, and his third $3. Returning to the Gold + Coast, I find two classes of working men, the country-people and the + Kruboys: the Sierra Leonites are too few to be taken into consideration. + At present, when there are only five working mines, none of which are + properly manned, labour is plentiful and cheap. It will be otherwise when + the number increases, as it will soon do, to fifty and a hundred. Upwards + of seventy concessions have already been granted, and I know one house + which has, or soon will have, half a dozen ready for market. Then natives + and Kruboys will strike for increased wages till even diamond-mines would + not pay. The Gold Coast contains rich placers in abundance: if they fail + it will be for want of hands, or because the cost of labour will swallow + up profits. + </p> + <p> + The country-people, Fantis, Accra-men, Apollonians of Béin, and others, + will work, and are well acquainted with gold-working. But they work in + their own way; and, save under exceptional conditions, they are incapable + of regular and continuous labour. It gives one the heart-ache to see their + dawdling, idling, shuffling, shiftless style of spoiling time. They are + now taking to tribute, piece and contract work. The French mines supply + them with tools and powder, and, by way of pay and provisions, allow them + to keep two-thirds of the produce. It is evident that such an arrangement + will be highly profitable to the hands who will 'pick the eyes out of the + mine,' and who will secrete all the richest stuff, leaving the poorest to + their employers. No amount of European surveillance will suffice to + prevent free gold in stone being stolen. Hence the question will arise + whether, despite the price of transport, reduction in England will not pay + better. + </p> + <p> + The Kruboys in the north and the Kabinda boys in the south have been + described as the Irishmen of West Africa: they certainly do the most work; + and trading-ships would find it almost impossible to trade without them. + During the last twenty years they have not improved in efficiency even on + board men-of-war. In 1861-65 the gangs with their headmen willingly + engaged for three years. Now they enlist only for a year; they carefully + keep tallies, and after the tenth monthly cut they begin to apply for + leave. Thus the men's services are lost just as they are becoming + valuable. It is the same with the Accra-men. When the mines learn the + simple lesson <i>l'union fait la force</i> they will combine not to engage + Krumen for less than two years. + </p> + <p> + There are two great centres at which Kruboys are hired. The first is + Sierra Leone, where they demand from all employers what the mail-steamers + pay—the headmen half-a-crown and the hands a shilling a day besides + rations. The second is the Kru coast. In 1850 the 'boys' received 5<i>s.</i> + per mensem in goods, which reduced it to 3<i>s.</i> They had also daily + rice-rations, 'Sunday beef,' and, at times, a dash of tobacco, a cap, a + blanket or a waist-cloth. In 1860 the hire rose to 9<i>s.</i> in kind, or + 4<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> in coin. About this time cruisers began to pay them + the monthly wages of ordinary seamen, 1<i>l.</i> 10s., with white man's + rations or compensation-money, amounting to another 12<i>l.</i> a year. In + 1882 headmen engage for the Oil Rivers at 1<i>l.</i>, and 'boys' for 10<i>s.</i> + to 12<i>s.</i> For the gold-mines of Wásá they have learned to demand 1<i>s.</i> + 3<i>d.</i> per diem, and at the cheapest 1<i>l.</i> a month, the headmen + receiving double. + </p> + <p> + The Kru-market does not supply more than 4,000 hands, and yet it is + already becoming 'tight.' In a few years demand will be excessive. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> +[Footnote: The usual estimate of the Kru-hands employed out of their own +country is as follows:— +For the Oil Rivers: + 150 each for Brass and Bonny, New Calabar and Camarones; + 150-200 for the Niger, and + 150 for Fernando Po and the Portuguese Islands 1200-1500 +At Lagos 1000 +On board the 25 Bristol ships, at 20 each 500 +For nine to ten ships of war 200 +For ten mail-steamers 200 +In the mines: (May, 1882) + Izrah 7, Akankon 14, Effuenta 120, + the two French companies 200, the Gold Coast 100, + and Crockerville 20 461 + —— + Total 3861; say 4000] +</pre> + <p> + The following notes were given to me by the managers of mines, whom I + consulted upon the subject. + </p> + <p> + Mr. Crocker prefers Fantis, Elminas, and others; and he can hire as many + as he wants; at Cape Coast Castle alone there are some eighty hands now + unemployed. He pays 36<i>s.</i>, without rations, per month of four weeks. + He has about a score of Kruboys, picked up 'on the beach;' these are + fellows who have lost all their money, and who dare not go home penniless. + Their headman receives per mens. $3.50, and in exceptional cases $4. The + better class of 'boys' get from $2.50 to $3; and lesser sums are given to + the 'small boys,' whose principal work is stealing, skulking. + </p> + <p> + Mr. Creswick has a high opinion of Krumen working in the mines, and has + found sundry of them to develop into excellent mechanics. The men want + only good management. Under six Europeans, himself included, he employs a + hundred hands, and from eight to ten mechanics. The first headman draws 37<i>s</i>. + 6<i>d</i>., the second 22<i>s</i>., full-grown labourers 18<i>s</i>., and + 'small boys' from 4<i>s</i>. to 6<i>s</i>. and 9<i>s</i>. + </p> + <p> + Mechanics' wages range between 1<i>l</i>. 5<i>s</i>. and 4<i>l</i>. All + have rations or 'subsistence,' which here means 3<i>d</i>. a day. + </p> + <p> + Mr. MacLennan has a few Fanti miners, whom he pays at the rate of 6<i>d</i>. + per half-day. His full muster of Krumen is 120; the headmen receive 27<i>s</i>. + 6<i>d</i>., rising, after six months, to 35<i>s</i>. The first class of + common boys get 20<i>s</i>.; the second from 13<i>s</i>. 6<i>d</i>. to 15<i>s</i>.; + and the third, mostly 'small boys,' between 5<i>s</i>. and 10<i>s</i>. His + carpenters and blacksmiths, who are Gold Coasters and Sierra Leonites, + draw from 2<i>l</i>. 10<i>s</i>. to 3<i>l</i>. The rations are, as usual, + 1-1/2 lb. of rice per day, with 1 lb. of 'Sunday beef,' whose brine is + converted into salt. + </p> + <p> + Mr. A. Bowden, manager of the Tákwá and Abosu Mines, also employs a 'mixed + multitude.' His Sierra Leone carpenters and blacksmiths draw 3<i>l.</i> 10<i>s.</i> + to 4<i>l.</i> 10<i>s.</i> per month without rations, and his native + mechanics 3<i>l.</i> to 3<i>l.</i> 10<i>s.</i> The Fanti labourers are + paid, as usual, a shilling per diem and find themselves. The Kruboys, + besides being lodged and fed (1-1/2 lb. rice per day and 1 lb. beef or + fish per week), draw in money as follows: headman, 2<i>l</i>.; second + ditto, 1<i>l</i>. 7s. to 1<i>l</i>. 12<i>s.</i>; miners, 18<i>s.</i> to 20<i>s.</i> + and labourers 9<i>s.</i> to 16<i>s.</i> + </p> + <p> + This state of the labour-market is, I have said, purely provisional. It + will not outlast the time when the present concessions are in full + exploitation; and this condition of things I hope soon to see. We can then + draw from the neighbouring countries, from Yoruba to the north-east, and + perhaps, but this is doubtful, from the Baasás [Footnote: A manly and + powerful race, who call themselves Americans and will have nothing to do + with the English.] and the Drewins to the west. But we must come, sooner + or later, and the sooner the better, to a regular coolie-immigration, East + African, Indian, and Chinese. + </p> + <p> + The benefit of such an influx must not be measured merely by the + additional work of a few thousand hands. It will at once create jealousy, + competition, rivalry. It will teach by example—the only way of + teaching Africans—that work is not ignoble, but that it is ignoble + to earn a shilling and to live idle on three-pence a day till the pence + are exhausted. Its advantages will presently be felt along the whole + western coast, and men will wonder why it was not thought of before. The + French, as they are wont to do in these days, have set us an example. + Already in early 1882 the papers announced that a first cargo of 178 + Chinese—probably from Cochin-China—had been landed at + Saint-Louis de Senegal for the proposed Senegambian railway. + </p> + <p> + The details of such an immigration and the measures which it will require + do not belong to this place. Suffice it to say that we can draw freely + upon the labour-banks of Macáo, Bombay, and Zanzibar. The intelligent, + thrifty, and industrious Chinese will learn mining here, as they have + learnt it elsewhere, with the utmost readiness. The 'East Indian' will be + well adapted for lighter work of the garden and the mines. Finally, the + sturdy Wásawahili of the East African coast will do, as carriers and + labourers, three times the work of Pantis and Apollonians. + </p> + <p> + I need hardly say that Captain Cameron and I would like nothing better + than to organise a movement of this kind; we would willingly do more good + to the West African coast than the whole tribe of its so-called + benefactors. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0020" id="link2H_4_0020"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + §3. GOLD-DIGGING IN NORTH-WESTERN AFRICA. + </h2> + <h3> + <i>a. Sketch of its Origin</i>. + </h3> + <p> + The mineral wealth of Central Africa has still to be studied; at present + we are almost wholly ignorant of it. We know, however, that the outlying + portions of the Continent contain three distinct and grand centres of + mining-industry. The first worked is the north-eastern corner—in + fact, the Nile-valley and its adjacencies, where Fayzoghlú still supplies + the noble metal. The second, also dating from immense antiquity, is the + whole West African coast from Morocco to the Guinea Gulf, both included. + The third and last, the south-eastern gold-fields, have been discovered by + the Portuguese in comparatively modern days. + </p> + <p> + In this paper I propose to treat only of the western field. Its + exploitation began early enough to be noticed by Herodotus, the oldest of + Greek prose-writers. He tells us (lib. iv. 196, &c.) that the + Carthaginians received gold from a black people, whose caravans crossed + the Sahará, or Great Desert, and that they traded for it with the wild + tribes of the West Coast. His words are as follows:—'There is a land + in Libya, and a nation beyond the Pillars of Hercules [the Straits of + 'Gib.'], which they [the Carthaginians] are wont to visit, where they no + sooner arrive but forthwith they break cargo; and, having disposed their + wares in an orderly way along the beach, leave them, and, returning aboard + their ships, raise a great smoke. + </p> + <p> + 'The natives, when they see the smoke, come down to the shore, and, laying + out to view so much gold as they think the worth of the wares, withdraw + themselves afar. The Carthaginians upon this come ashore and look. If they + deem the gold sufficient they take it and wend their way; but if it does + not seem to them sufficient, they go aboard once more and wait patiently. + Then the others draw near and add to their gold till the Carthaginians are + content. Neither party deals unfairly by the other; for they themselves + never touch the gold till it comes up to the worth of their goods, nor do + the natives ever carry off the goods till the gold is taken away.' + </p> + <p> + Plato ('Critias' [Footnote: The celebrated Dialogue which treats of + Altantis and describes cocoas as the 'fruits having a hard rind, affording + drinks and meats and ointments.']) may refer to this dumb trade when he + tells us, 'Never was prince more wealthy than Atlas [eldest son of + Poseidon by Cleito]. His land was fertile, healthy, beautiful, marvellous; + it was terminated by a range of gold-yielding mountains.' Lyon, speaking + of the western Sudán, uses almost the very words of Herodotus. 'An + invisible nation, according to our informant, inhabit near this place, and + are said to trade by night. Those who come to traffic for their gold lay + their merchandise in heaps and retire. In the morning they find a certain + quantity of gold-dust placed against every heap, which if they think + sufficient they leave the goods; if not, they let both remain till more of + the precious ore is added' (p. 149). [Footnote: Shaw gives a similar + account (<i>Travels</i>, p. 302).] + </p> + <p> + The classical trade in gold and slaves was diligently prosecuted by the + Arabs or Saracens after Mohammed's day. Their caravans traversed the great + wilderness which lies behind the fertile Mediterranean shore, and founded + negroid empires in the western Sudán, or Blackland. Gháná, whence, + perhaps, the Portuguese Guiné and our Guinea of 'the dreadful mortal + name,' became the great gold-mart of the day. Famous in history is its + throne, a worked nugget of solid gold, weighing 30 lbs. It has been + rivalled in modern times by the 'stool' of Bontuko (Gyáman), and by the + 'Hundredweight of gold' produced by New South Wales. Most of the wealth + came from a district to the south-west, Wangara, Ungura, or Unguru, + bordering on the Niger, and supposed to correspond with modern + Mandenga-land. In the lowlands, after the annual floods, the natives dug + and washed the diluvial deposits for the precious metal exactly as is now + done upon the Gold Coast; and they burrowed into the highlands which + surround in crescent-form the head-waters of the great River Joliba. + Presently Tinbukhtu succeeded, according to Leo Africanus (1500), Gháná as + the converging point of the trade, and made the name for wealth which + endures even to the present day. Its princes and nobles lavishly employed + the precious ore in ornaments, some weighing 1,300 ounces. + </p> + <p> + In due time the Moroccan Arabs were succeeded by their doughty rivals, the + Portuguese of the heroic ages of D. D. Joăo II. and Manoel. I here pass + over the disputed claim of the French, who declare that they imported the + metal from 'Elmina' as early as 1382. [Footnote: See Chapter II.] The + first gold was discovered on his second voyage by Gonçalo Baldeza (1442) + at the Rio de Ouro, the classical Lixus and the modern El-Kus, famed for + the defeat and death of Dom Sebastiam. [Footnote: I have noticed it in <i>Camoens, + his Life and his Lusiads</i>, vol ii. chapter iii. The identification with + the Rio de Onro is that of Bowdich (p. 505). Another Rio de Ouro was + visited in 1860 by Captain George Peacock (before alluded to), 'having a + French frigate under his orders.' The 'River of Gold' of course would + become a favourite and a banal name.] + </p> + <p> + In 1470 Joăo de Santarem and Pero d'Escobar, knights of the King, sailed + past Cape Falmas, discovered the islands of Săo Thomé and Annobom (January + 1, 1471); and, on their return homewards, found a trade in gold-dust at + the village of Sama (Chamah) and on the site which we miscall 'Elmina.' + [Footnote: This form of the word, a masculine article with a feminine + noun, cannot exist in any of the neo-Latin languages. In Italian and + Spanish it would be La Mina, in Portuguese A Mina. The native name is Dina + or Edina.] During the same year Fernan' Gomez, a worthy of Lisbon, bought + a five years' monopoly of the gold-trade from the King, paying 44<i>l.</i> + 9<i>s.</i> par annum, and binding himself to explore, every year, 300 + miles down coast from Sierra Leone. One of these expeditions landed at + 'Elmina' and discovered Cape Catherine in south latitude 1ş 50' and west + longitude (Gr.) 9ş 2'. The rich mines opened at Little Kommenda, or + Aprobi, led to the building of the Fort Săo Jorje da Mina, by Diego + d'Azembuja, sent out (A.D. 1481) to superintend the construction. But + about 1622 the falling in of some unbraced and untimbered shafts and the + deaths of many miners induced Gweffa, the King, to 'put gold in Fetish,' + making it an accursed thing; and it has not been worked since that time. + </p> + <p> + Thus Portugal secured to herself the treasures which made her the + wealthiest of European kingdoms. But when she became a province of Spain, + under D. Philip II., her Eastern conquests were systematically neglected + in favour of the Castilian colonies that studded the New World. The weak + Lusitanian garrisons were massacred on the Gold Coast, as in other parts + of Africa; and the Hollanders, the 'Water-beggars,' who had conquered + their independence from Spain, proceeded to absorb the richest possessions + of their quondam rivals. 'Elmina,' the capital, fell into Dutch hands + (1637), and till 1868 Holland retained her forts and factories on the Gold + Coast. + </p> + <p> + In their turn the English and the French, who had heard of the fabulous + treasures of the Joliba valley and the Tinbukhtu mart, began to claim + their share. As early as 1551 Captain Thomas Wyndham touched at the Gold + Coast and brought home 150 lbs. of the precious dust. The first English + company for exploring the Gambia River sent out (1618) their agent, + Richard Thompson. This brave and unfortunate explorer was rancorously + opposed by the Portuguese and eventually murdered by his own men. He was + followed (1620) by Richard Jobson, to whom we owe the first account of the + Gambia River. He landed at various points, armed with mercury, aqua regia + (nitric acid), large crucibles, and a 'dowsing' or divining rod; + [Footnote: A form of this old and almost universal magical instrument, + worked by electricity, has, I am told, been lately invented and patented + in the United States.] washed the sands and examined the rocks even beyond + the Falls of Barraconda. After having often been deceived, as has occurred + to many prospectors since his day, he determined that gold never occurs in + low fertile wooded lands, but in naked and barren hills, which embed it in + their reddish ferruginous soil. Hence it was long and erroneously + determined that bare rocks in the neighbourhood of shallow alluvia + characterise rich placers, and that the wealthiest mining-regions are poor + and stunted in vegetation. California and Australia, the Gold Coast and + South Africa, are instances of the contrary. Wásá, however, confirms the + old opinion that the strata traversed by lodes determine the predominating + metal; as quartz produces gold; hard blue slate, lead; limestone, + green-stone and porphyry, copper; and granite, tin. [Footnote: Page 17, <i>A + Treatise on Metalliferous Minerals and Mining</i>, by D. C. Davies. + London, Crosby and Co., 1881. The volume is handy and useful to + explorers.] + </p> + <p> + After twenty days' labour Jobson succeeded in extracting 12 lbs. from a + single site. He declares that at length he 'arrived at the mouth of the + mine itself, and found gold in such abundance as surprised him with joy + and admiration.' Unfortunately he leaves us no notice of its position; it + is probably lost, like many of the old Brazilian diggings. The Gambia + River still exports small quantities of dust supposed to have been washed + in the Ghauts, or sea-subtending ridges, of the interior. Most of it, + however, finds its way to the wealthier and more prosperous French colony. + </p> + <p> + Whilst the English chose the Gambia the French preferred Senegal, where + they founded (1626) 'St. Louis,' called after Louis XIV. The Sieur Brue, + Director-General of the Senegal Company, made a second journey of + discovery in 1698, and reached with great difficulty the gold-mines of + desert and dreary Bambúk. There he visited the principal districts, and + secured specimens of what he calls the <i>ghingan</i>, or golden earth. He + proposed a third incursion, but the absolute apathy of his countrymen + proved an insuperable obstacle. + </p> + <p> + M. Golberry describes Bambúk in gloomy and sombre colours. Its gold is + distributed amongst low ranges of peeled and sterile hills. Probably this + results from fires and disforesting. It occurs in the shape of spangles, + grains, and <i>pépites</i> (nuggets), whose size increases with the depth + of the digging. In the Matakon mine the dust adhered to fragments of iron, + emery, and lapis lazuli, from which it was easily detached and washed. The + less valuable Semayla placer produced dust in a hard reddish loam, mixed + with still more refractory materials; it was crushed in mortars with rude + wooden dollies or with grain-pestles. The pits, six feet in diameter, + reached a depth of from ten to twelve yards, where they were stopped by a + bed of hard reddish marle; this the Frenchman held to be the hanging wall + of a much richer lode. The people used ladders, but they neglected to + collar or brace the mouth, and the untimbered pit-sides often fell in; + hence fatal accidents, attributed to the 'earth-spirits.' They held gold + to be a capricious elf, and when a rich vein suddenly ran barren they + cried out, 'There! he is off!' + </p> + <p> + In later days Mungo Park drew attention by his famous first journey + (1795-97) to the highlands of the Mandingoes (Mandenga-land), and revived + interest in the provinces of Shronda, Konkodu, Dindiko, Bambúk, and + Bambarra. Here the natives collect dust by laborious washings of detrital + sand. His fatal second expedition (1805) produced an unfinished journal, + which, however, gives the amplest and most interesting notices concerning + the gold-production of the region he traversed. My space compels me to + refer readers to the original. [Footnote: Murray's edition of 1816, vol. + i, p. 40, and vol. ii. p. 751.] + </p> + <p> + The traveller Caillié (1827), after crossing the Niger <i>en route</i> to + Tinbukhtu, passed south of the Bouré province, in the valley of the Great + River; and here he reports an abundance of gold. As in the districts + visited by Park, it is all alluvial and washed out of the soil. The dust, + together with native cloth, wax, honey, cotton and cattle, finds its way + to the coast, where it is bartered for beads, amber and coral, calicoes + and firearms. The gold-mines of Bouré were first visited and described by + Winwood Reade. [Footnote: <i>Coomassie</i>, &c., p. 126.] + </p> + <p> + The peninsula of Sierra Leone is not yet proved to be auriferous. Here + stray Moslems, mostly Mandengas, occasionally bring down the Melakori + River ring-gold and dust from the interior. The colonists of Liberia + assert that at times they have come upon a pocket which produced fifty + dollars; the country-people also occasionally offer gold for sale. From + the Bassam coast middle-men travel far inland and buy the metal from the + bushmen. Near Grand Bassam free gold in quartz-reefs near the shore has + been reported. + </p> + <p> + We now reach the Gold Coast proper, which amply deserves its glorious + golden name. I have shown that the whole seaboard of West Africa, between + it and Morocco, produces more or less gold; here, however, the precious + metal comes down to the very shore and is washed upon the sands. Its + length from the Assini boundary-line to the Volta [Footnote: Chapter XIV. + I would not assert that gold is not found east of the Volta River. M. + Colonna, of Lagos, told me that he had good reason to suspect its presence + on the seaboard of Dahome, and promised me to make further enquiries.] has + been laid down at 220 direct geographical miles by a depth of about 100. + The area of the Protectorate, which has been a British colony since 1874, + is assumed to be 16,620 instead of 24,500 square miles, and the population + may exceed half a million. Its surface is divided into twelve petty + kingdoms; and its strand is studded with forts and ruins of forts, a total + of twenty-five, or one to every eight miles. This small section of West + Africa poured a flood of gold into Europe; and, until the mineral + discoveries of California and Australia, it continued to be the principal + source of supply to the civilised world. + </p> + <p> + The older writers give us ample details about gold-digging and trading two + centuries ago. Bosnian (Letter VI.) shows that the people prospected for + the illustrious metal in three forms of ground. The first was in, or + between, particular hills, where they sank pits; the second was about the + rivers and waterfalls; and the third was on the seashore near the mouths + of rivulets after violent night-rains. He ends his letter with these + sensible words: 'I would refer to any intelligent metallist whether a vast + deal of ore must not of necessity be lost here, from which a great deal of + gold might be separated, from want of skill in the metallic art; and not + only so, but I firmly believe that vast quantities of pure gold are left + behind; for the negroes only ignorantly dig at random, without the least + knowledge of the veins of the mine. [Footnote: The origin of these mineral + veins is still disputed, science being as yet too young for the task of + solving the mystery. Probably, as Mr. Davies remarks, 'the mode of the + origin and means of the deposition are not one only but many,' and we have + the Huttonian (igneous) and Wernerian (aqueous) theories, the sublimation + of Necker, the electricity of Mr. R. W. Fox, the infiltration and + gravitation of fluid metals towards cracks, vughs (cavities), and + shrinkages, and the law of replacement. 'If a steel plate be removed atom + by atom,' says Mr. R. Brough Smyth (<i>Gold Fields of Victoria</i>, + Melbourne, 1869), 'and each atom be replaced by a corresponding atom of + silver—a fact established by direct experiment—it will be + readily seen that a mineral vein may be formed in the same way.'] And I + doubt not that if the land belonged to Europeans they would soon find it + to produce much richer treasures than the negroes obtain from it. But it + is not probable that we shall ever possess that liberty here, wherefore we + must be content with being so far masters of it as we are at present, + which, if well and prudently managed, would turn to a very great account.' + </p> + <p> + Times, however, are changed. England is now mistress of the field, and it + will be her fault if she leaves it untilled. + </p> + <p> + The good old Hollander first mentions amongst his six gold-sites the + kingdom of Denkira; it then included the conquests of Wásá (Wassaw), of + Encasse, [Footnote: The Inkassa of D'Anville, 1729.] and of Juffer or + Quiforo. The gold of that region is good, but much alloyed for the trade + with 'fetish'-figures. These are composed sometimes of pure mountain-gold; + more often the ore is mixed with one-third, or even a half, of silver and + copper, and stuffed with half-weight of the black earth used for moulding. + The second was Acanny (D'Anville's Akanni), with gold so pure and fine + that 'Acanny sika' meant the best ley. Then came the kingdom of Akim, + which 'furnishes as large quantities of gold as any land that I know, and + that also the most valuable and pure of any that is carried away from the + coast.' It was easily distinguished by its deep colour. The fourth and + fifth were Ashanti and Ananse, a small tract between the ex-great + despotism and Denkira. The sixth and last was Awine, our Aowin, the region + to the east of the Tando, then and now included in the British + Protectorate. The Dutch 'traded here with a great deal of pleasure,' the + people 'being the civilest and fairest dealers of all the negroes.' + </p> + <p> + The Ashanti war of 1873-74 had the effect of opening to transit a large + area of workable ground. English officers traversed the interior in all + directions, and their reports throw vivid light upon the position, the + extent, and the value of the auriferous grounds which subtend the Gold + Coast and which supply it with the precious metal. + </p> + <p> + The gold-provinces best known to us are now three—Wásá, of which + these pages treat; Akim, the hill-land, an easy journey of a week north + with westing from Akra; and Gyáman, the rival of Ashanti. + </p> + <p> + Akim is divided into eastern and western. Mr. H. Ponsonby, when travelling + through both regions, found the natives getting quantities of gold by + digging holes eight to ten feet deep on either side of the forest-paths. + He saw as much as three ounces taken up in less than half an hour. Around + the capital of eastern Akim, Kyebi, or Chyebi, the land is also + honeycombed with man-holes, making night-travel dangerous to the stranger. + It requires a sharp eye to detect the deserted pits, two feet in diameter + and 'sunk straight, as if they had been bored with huge augurs.' I have + seen something of the kind in the water-meadows near Shoreham. The workman + descends by foot-holes, and works with a hoe four to six inches long by + two broad: when his calabash is filled it is drawn up by his companions. + The earthquakes of April and July 1862 [Footnote: I happened to be at Akra + during the convulsion of July 10. The commandant, Major (now Colonel) de + Buvignes, and I set out for a stroll along the sands to the west. The + morning was close and cloudy: what little breeze there was came from the + south-west, under a leaden sky and over a leaden sea. At 8.10 A.M., as we + were returning from the rocks about three-quarters of a mile off, there + was a sudden rambling like a distant thunder-clap; the sands seemed to + wave up and down as a shaken carpet, and we both staggered forwards. + Others described the movement as rising and falling like the waters of a + lagoon. I looked with apprehension at the sea; but the direction of the + shock was apparently from west-north-west; and the line was too oblique to + produce one of those awful earthquake-waves, seventy feet high, which have + swept tall ships over the roofs of cities. We ran as fast as we could to + the town, where everything was in the wildest confusion. The 'Big House' + and Mr. John Hansen's were mere ruins; the Court-house had come to pieces, + and the prison-cells yawned open. I distinctly saw that the rock-ledge + under Akra, between Fort James and Crčvecoeur, had been upraised: canoes + passed over what was now dry. A second shock at 8.20 A.M., and a third + about 10.45, completed the destruction, split every standing wall, and + shook down the three forts into ruinous heaps. Nor did the seismic + movements cease till July 15, when I made my escape. + </p> + <p> + Men who remembered as far back as March 1858, when Colonel Bird ruled the + land, declared that Akra had never felt an earthquake; but on the morning + of April 14, 1862, there had been a sharp shock followed by sundry lighter + movements, and lastly by the most severe. The direction was said to be + north-south, and it was supposed to be the tail of a great earthquake, + whose focus was behind Sierra Leone. A rumbling, like the rolling of guns, + had been heard under the main square of Akra; the shocks were felt by the + ships in the roads, and the disturbance was reported to have been even + more severe up-country. When the wave reached Agbóme, Gelelé, King of + Dahome, with characteristic filial piety, exclaimed, 'Don't you see that + my father is calling for blood, and is angry because we are not sending + him more men?' Whereupon he at once ordered three prisoners from Ishagga + to take the road to Ku-to-men, Hades or Dead-land.] so tossed and broke up + the hill-strata of Akim that all the people flocked to the diggings and + dispensed with the chimney-holes generally sunk. The frontier-village of + Adadentum, on the Prah, was nearly buried by a landslip from a spur of the + 'Queeshoh Range.' Huge nuggets were uncovered, and the people filled their + calabashes daily, thankful to their great fetish, the Kataguri. [Footnote: + This is a huge brass pan which fell from heaven: it is or was surrounded + by drawn swords and gold-handled axes in its sanctuary, the fetish-house.] + The provinces of Gyáman, especially Ponin, Safwi, and Showy, are famed for + wealth of gold. In African phrase, while 'the metallic veins of Ashanti, + Denkira, and Wásá lie twelve cubits deep, those of Gyáman are only five.' + The ore dug from pits is of deep colour, and occurs mixed with red gravel + and pieces of white granite (quartz). It is held to be rock-gold + (nuggets), and more valuable than that of Ashanti, although the latter, + passing for current, is mostly pure. This pit-gold appears in lumps + embedded in loam and rock, of which 14 to 15 lbs. would yield 1 to 1 1/2 + lb. pure metal. Nuggets are also produced, and chiefs wear them slung to + hair and wrists; some may weigh 4 lbs. The dust washed from the + torrent-beds is higher-coloured, cleaner, and better than what is produced + elsewhere. It found its way to the Nigerian basin as well as to the Gold + Coast, and was converted into ducats (miskals) and trinkets, chains, + bracelets, anklets, and adornments for weapons. The King of Gyáman became + immensely rich by the produce of his mines; and, according to Bowdich, his + bed had steps of solid gold. + </p> + <p> + The reader will have gathered from the preceding pages that the negroes + have worked their gold-fields for centuries but to very little purpose. + Their want of pumps, of quartz-crushers, and of scientific appliances + generally, has limited their labour to scratching the top-soil and + nibbling at the reef-walls. A large proportion of the country is + practically virgin-ground, and a rich harvest has been left for European + science, energy, and enterprise. + </p> + <p> + The Fantis have many curious usages and superstitions which limit + production. As a rule nuggets are the royalty of kings and chiefs; but in + many places these 'mothers of gold' are re-buried, in order that gold may + grow from them. [Footnote: It was long supposed in Europe that alluvial + gold grew by a succession of layers imposed upon a solid nucleus, and by + the coalescence of grains as a snow-ball is constructed. Mr. Sellwyn still + holds that 'nuggets and particles of alluvial gold may gradually increase + by the deposition of metallic gold (analogous to the electroplating + process), from the meteoric waters that circulate through the drifts.'—<i>Gold + Fields of Victoria</i>, p. 357.] I have noted that a smoke, or thin + vapour, guides to the unknown placer, and that white gold causes a mine to + be abandoned. Rich ground is denoted by a peculiar vegetation, especially + of ferns. Gold is guarded here not by a dragon, but by a monstrous baboon; + and when golden dogs are found the finder dies. In 1862 I visited with + Major de Ruvignes Great Sankánya, a village west of the Volta, where a + large gold-field was reported. As we drew near the spot we were told that + the precious metal appears during the 'yam-customs,' and that only + prayers, sacrifices, and presents to the fetish will make it visible. + Presently we saw a white rag on a pole, which the dark youth, our guide, + called a 'sign,' and groaned out that it would surely slay us. A woman, + whose white and black beads showed a 'religious,' pointed to a place where + gold is 'common as ashes after a fire'—the priest being first paid. + The report of this excursion spread to Akra; Major de Ruvignes had taken + up in his arms a golden dog, and at once fell dead. I can hardly connect + the superstition with old Anubis. + </p> + <p> + Whenever the unshored pit caves in the accident has been caused by + evil-minded ghosts, the kobolds of Germany, in which Cornwall till lately + believed. Fetish then steps forward and forbids further search. Thus many + of the richest placers have been closed. Such, for instance, is the Monte + do Diabo (Devil's Hill), the native Mankwadi, [Footnote: Again, I cannot + connect Mankwadi (or even Manquada) with 'Maquida or Azeb, Queen of Sheba'—the + latter country probably lying in South Arabian Yemen.] near Winnebah, + fifteen leagues east from Elmina. The miners were killed by the heat of + the shafts, and the mine was at once placed 'in fetish.' But 'fetish' has + now lost much of its authority; the Satanic hill will soon be exploited, + and its only difficulty is its disputed ownership by 'Ghartey, King of + Winnebah,' and 'Okill Ensah, King of Ejemakun.' These dignitaries + condescend to advertise against each other in the local papers. + </p> + <p> + At Adá (Addah), west of the Volta and in its neighbourhood, the Krobo + Hills included, a beggar would be grossly insulted by the offer of a + sovereign; he dashes it to earth, spitting upon it with wrath. The + Ashantis, as the story runs, once dug treasure near Sakánya; and, as the + chiefs and people were becoming too independent of them, the high priests + put the precious metal 'in fetish,' with the penalty of blindness to all + who worked it. A Danish governor once filled his pockets, and recovered + sight only by throwing away the plunder. A brother of the Adá chief + offered to show this magic-fenced placer to the late Mr. Nicol Irvine, <i>moyennant</i> + the trifle of 50<i>l</i>. The transaction reminded me of the Hindu + alchemist who asks you ten rupees to make a ton of gold. + </p> + <p> + As regards the gold-supply of this El Dorado, the Gold Coast, it has been + estimated that the total since A.D. 1471 amounted to six or seven hundred + millions of pounds sterling. Elmina alone, at the beginning of the + seventeenth century, annually exported, according to Bosman, 3,000,000<i>l</i>. + At a later period Mr. McQueen increased the figures to 3,400,000<i>l</i>. + Then came the abolition of slavery, which caused the decline and fall of + mining-industry amongst the natives. In 1816 the export was reduced to + 400,000<i>l</i>. (=100,000 ounces), a figure repeated in 1860 by Dr. + Eobert Olarke; and in 1862 the amount was variously reported at 192,000<i>l</i>. + (= 48,000 ounces) and half a million of money. + </p> + <p> + The following proportions were given to me by M. Dahse. Till 1870 the + figures are computed by him; after that date the value is declared;—[Footnote: + <i>Statistical Abstract of the United Kingdom.</i> Eyre and Spottiswoode. + London, 1881.] + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + 1866 1867 1868 1869 + 120,333<i>l</i>. 146,182<i>l</i> 118,875<i>l</i>. 100,214<i>l</i>. + + 1870 1871 1872 + 116,142<i>l</i>. 137,328<i>l</i>. 108,869<i>l</i>. +</pre> + <p> + Now began the notable falling-off, which reached its maximum next year:— + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + 1873 1874 1875 1876 + 77,523<i>l</i>. 136,263<i>l</i>. 117,321<i>l</i>. 145,511<i>l</i>. + + 1877 1878 1879 1880 + 120,542<i>l</i> 122,497<i>l</i>. 115,167<i>l</i>. 125,980<i>l</i>. +</pre> + <p> + M. Dahse assumes the annual average to be in round numbers, 126,000<i>l</i>. + </p> + <p> + The official returns of imported silver from the Coast show:— + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + 1872 1873 1874 1875 1876 + 7,074<i>l</i>. 6,841<i>l</i>. 40,964<i>l</i>. 23,587<i>l</i>. 21,667<i>l</i>. + + 1877 1878 1879 1880 + 10,905<i>l</i>. 41,254<i>l</i>. 61,755<i>l</i>. 63,337<i>l</i>. +</pre> + <p> + Totals of gold and silver:— + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + 1872 1873 1874 1875 1876 + 115,943<i>l</i>. 84,364<i>l</i>. 177,227<i>l</i>. 140,908<i>l</i>. 167,178<i>l</i>. + + 1877 1878 1879 1880 + 131,447<i>l</i>. 163,751<i>l</i>. 176,922<i>l</i>. 189,317<i>l</i>. +</pre> + <p> + I was lately asked by an illustrious geologist and man of science, how it + came to pass that the Gold Coast, if so rich, has not been worked before + this time. These notes will afford a sufficient reply. + </p> + <p> + <i>b. The Kong Mountains.</i> + </p> + <p> + This range, which has almost disappeared from the maps, may have taken its + name either from the town of Kong on the southern versant, or it may be a + contraction of the Kongkodu, the mountain-land described by Mungo Park. + Messieurs J. Zweifel and M. Moustier, [Footnote: <i>Expédition, C. A. + Verminck, Voyage aux Sources du Niger</i>. Marseille, 1880.] who did not + reach the Niger sources in 1879, explain 'Kong' as the Kissi name of the + line which trends from north-west to south-east, and which divides + Koronko-land from Kono-land. When nearing their objective they sighted the + Kong-apex, Mount Daro, measuring 1,240 mčtres. Older travellers make it a + latitudinal chain running nearly east-west, with its centre about the + meridian of Cape Coast Castle, and extending 500 to 600 miles on a + parallel of north latitude 7ş-8ş. Westward it bends north behind Cape + Palmas, and, like the Ghauts of Hindostan, follows the line of seaboard. I + have before noticed the traditions of Mount Geddia, an occidental + Kilima-njáro. About the parallel of Sierra Leone the feature splits into a + network of ranges, curves, and zigzags, which show no general trend. The + eastern faces here shed to the Niger, the western to the various streams + between the Rokel-Seli, the Gambia, and the Senegal; and the last northern + counterforts sink into the Sahará Desert. The western versant supplies the + gold of Senegambia, the southern that of Ashanti and Wásá. The superficial + dust is washed down by rains, floods, and rivers; and the dykes and veins + of quartz, mostly running north-south, are apparently connected with those + of the main range. + </p> + <p> + That such a chain must exist is proved by the conduct of the Gold Coast + streams. The Ancobra, for instance, which often rises and falls from + twenty to forty feet in twenty-four hours, suggests that its sources + spring from an elevated plane at no great distance from the sea. The lands + south of the Kong Mountains are grassy and hilly with extensive plains. + This is known through the 'Donko slaves,' common on the coast. Many of + them come from about Salagha, the newly-opened mart upon the Upper Volta; + they declare that the land breeds ostriches and elephants, cattle and + camels, horses and asses. Moreover, it is visited by the northern peoples + who cross the Sahará. I have already noticed the grass-lands of Gyáman. + </p> + <p> + Captain Clapperton, on his second journey, setting out from Badagry to + Busa (Boussa), crossed a hill-range which would correspond with the Kong. + It is described as about eighty miles broad, and is said to extend from + behind Ashanti to Benin. The traveller, who estimated the culminating + point not to exceed 2,600 feet, found the rugged passes hemmed in by + denticulated walls and tons of granite, 600 to 700 feet high, and + sometimes overhanging the path. The valleys varied in breadth from a + hundred yards to half a mile. A comparatively large population occupied + the mountain-recesses, where they planted fine crops of yams, millet, and + cotton. The strangers were made welcome at every settlement. Ascending + hill after hill, they came to Chaki, a large town on the very summit of + the ridge. The <i>caboceer</i> had a house and a stock of provisions ready + for his guests, put many questions, and earnestly pressed them to rest for + two or three days. When the whole chain was crossed they fell into the + plains of 'Yaruba' (Yoruba). + </p> + <p> + The next eye-witness is Mr. John Duncan, who visited Dahome in 1845. King + Gezo allowed him a guard of a hundred men, in order to explore with safety + the 'Mahi, or Kong Mountains.' His son and successor was not so generous; + he systematically and churlishly refused all travellers, myself included, + permission to pass northwards of his capital. The Lifeguardsman found the + chain, which is distant more than a hundred miles from Agbóme, differing + from his expectations in character, appearance, and even position. The + grand, imposing line looked from afar like colossal piles of ruins; a + nearer view showed immense blocks, some of them 200 feet long, egg-shaped + and lying upon their sides. Nearly all the settlements had chosen the + summits, doubtless for defence. Mr. Duncan crossed the whole breadth of + these 'Kong Mountains,' and pushed 180 miles beyond them over a level land + which must shed to the Niger. + </p> + <p> + These descriptions denote a range of granite, the rock which forms the + ground-floor of the Sierra Leone peninsula and the Gold Coast, possibly + varied by syenites and porphyries. It would probably contain, like the + sea-subtending mountains of Midian, large veins of eminently metalliferous + quartz, outcropping from the surface and forming extensions of the reefs + below. From the coast-line the land gradually upslopes towards the spurs + of the great dividing ridge; and thus we may fairly expect that the + further north we go the richer will become the diggings. + </p> + <p> + The Kong Mountains are apparently cut through by the Niger south of Iddah, + where the true coast begins. Travellers describe the features almost in + the words of Clapperton and Denham—the towering masses of granite + which contrast so strongly with the southern swamps; upstanding outcrops + resembling cathedrals and castellations in ruins; boulders like footballs + of enormous dimensions; pyramids a thousand feet high; and solitary cones + which rise like giant ninepins. We know too little of the lands lying + south-east of the confluence to determine the sequence of the chain, whose + counterforts may give rise to the Eastern 'Oil Rivers.' It is not + connected with the Peak of Camarones, round which Mr. Cumber, of the + Baptist Mission, travelled; and which he determined to be an isolated + block. Farther south the Ghauts of Western Africa reappeared as the Serra + do Crystal, and fringe the mighty triangle below the Equator. They are + suspected to be auriferous in places. An American merchant on the Gaboon + River, Captain Lawlin, carried home in 1843-44 a quantity of granular gold + brought to him by the country-traders. He returned to his station, + prepared to work the metals of the interior; but the people took the + alarm, and he failed to find the spot. + </p> + <p> + Cameron and I, prevented by the late season of our landing from attempting + this interesting exploration, were careful to make all manner of enquiries + concerning the best <i>point de départ</i>, and if fate prevent our + attempting it we shall be happy to see some more favoured traveller + succeed. The easiest way would be to march upon Crockerville, two days by + the Ancobra River and three by land. The bush-paths, which would require + widening for hammocks, lead north through Wásá. There are many villages on + the way, and in places provisions can be procured; the people are peaceful + and willing to show or to make the path. At Axim I consulted a native + guide who knew the Kong village, but not the Kong Mountains. He made the + distance six marches to Safwi, where the grass-lands begin; and here he + ascended a hillock, seeing nothing but prairies to the north. Eight more + stages, a total of fourteen, led him to Gyáman, where he found horses and + horsemen. He also knew by hearsay the western route, <i>viâ</i> Apollonian + Béin. + </p> + <p> + <i>c. Native Modes of Working Gold</i>. + </p> + <p> + In all places, and at all times, gold, probably the metal first used by + man, has been worked in the same way. This is a fair evidence of that + instinctive faculty which produces a general resemblance of rude + stone-implements from England to Australia. There are six methods for + 'getting' the precious metal—surfacing or washing; shallow-sinking; + sluicing, or removing the earth through natural and artificial channels; + deep sinking; tunnelling, and quartz-mining. + </p> + <p> + The preceding notes show that the natives of the Gold Coast, and of West + Africa generally, are adepts at procuring their gold by 'surfacing,' + washing with the calabash or wooden bowl the rich alluvial formations that + underlie the top-soil. This is the rudest form of machinery, preceding in + California the cradle, the torn, and the sluice. Westerns made their pans + of brass or copper, about sixteen inches in diameter, and nearly two + inches deep in the middle where the gold gravitates. Panning in Africa is + women's work, and the process has been described in the preceding pages. + </p> + <p> + But the natives, as has been shown, can also work quartz, an art well + known to the Ancient Egyptians. They either pick up detached pieces + showing visible gold, or they sink pits and nibble at the walls of the + reefs. But whereas the Nile-peoples pounded the stone in mortars and + washed the dust on sloping boards, here the matrix must be laboriously + levigated. A handful of broken quartz is placed upon the 'cankey-stone,' + with which the gudewife grinds her 'mealies.' It is a slightly hollowed + slab of granite or hard conglomerate, some two feet square, sloping away + from the worker, and standing upon a rude tripod of tree-branches secured + by a lashing of 'tie-tie.' The stuff is then rubbed with a hand-stone not + unlike a baker's roll, and a slight deviation is given to it as it moves + 'fore and aft.' The reduced stone is caught in a calabash placed at the + lower end of the slab. This is usually night-work, and all the dark hours + will be wasted in grinding down a cubic foot of stone. + </p> + <p> + The late M. Bonnat had probably read Mr. Andrew Swanzy's evidence before + the House of Commons in 1816: 'Gold is procured in every part of the + country; it appears more like an impregnation of the soil than a mine.' + His long captivity at Kumasi, where to a certain extent he learned the Oji + speech, familiarised him with the native processes; and thus a Frenchman + taught Englishmen to work gold in a golden land where they have been + domiciled—true <i>fainéants</i>—for nearly three centuries. He + came out in the Dries of 1877 with the intention of dredging the Ancobra + River where the natives dive for the precious metal. He was working in + western Apinto, a province of Wásá, under Kofi Blay, a vassal of King + Kwábina Angu, when he was visited (January 1878) by Major-General Wray, + B.A., Colonel Lightfoot, and Mr. Hervey, who were curious to see the work. + They remained only till the return of the mail-steamer, or about five + weeks. The General left with some first-rate sketches; the Colonel caught + a fever, which killed him at Madeira; and the Esquire, who bears a name + well known in Australia, returned to the Gold Coast for the purpose of + writing not unprofitable reports. M. Bonnat was presently informed of the + Tákwá Ridge, mines well known for a century at least to Cape Coast Castle, + and ever the principal source of the Axim currency. They were still worked + in 1875 by the people who drew their stores from Axim. A five-weeks' + residence convinced him that they were rich enough to attract capital; he + went to Europe, and was successful in raising it. Thus began the Tákwá + mines, where, by a kind of irony of Fate, the beginner was buried. + </p> + <p> + M. Bonnat wisely intended to open operations with wet-working. At Axim I + was shown a model flume, made to order after the plans of a M. Boisonnet, + or, as he signs himself, 'boisonnet.' He was reported to be a large + landed-proprietor who had made a fortune by mining in French Guiana. He + proposed for M. Bonnat and himself to secure the monopoly of washing the + Protectorate with this flume—a veritable French toy, uselessly + complicated, and yet to be used only upon the smallest scale. We must go + for our models to California and Australia, not to French Guiana. + </p> + <p> + The following will be the implements with which the natives of the future + must do their work on the Gold Coast:— + </p> + <p> + The pan begat the cradle, a wooden box on rockers, shaped like the article + which gave its name. It measures three feet and a half by eighteen inches, + and is provided with a movable hopper and slides. Placed in a sloping + position, it is worked to and fro by a perpendicular staff acting as + handle, and the grain-gold, a metal seven times heavier than granite, + collects where the baby should be. As some flour-gold is here found, the + cradle-bottom should be cut with cross-grooves to hold mercury; and the + latter must be tempered with sodium or other amalgam. + </p> + <p> + The cradle begat Long Tom and Broad Tom, the 'tom' proper being the upper + box with a grating to keep out the pebbles. 'Long Tom's' body is a wooden + trough, from twelve to fourteen feet long by a foot or a foot and a half + broad, with ripples, riffles, or cross-bars. There is usually another + grating at the lower end to intercept the smaller stones. The machine is + fixed in a gently sloping position, at an angle determined by + circumstances; the wash-dirt is lifted into the upper end by manual + labour; when stiff it must be stirred or shovelled, and a stream of water + does the rest. The greater gravity of the gold causes it to be arrested by + the riffles. Instead of the bars grooves may be cut and filled with + quicksilver. When the sludge is very rich, rough cloths rubbed with + mercury, or even sheepskins, the lineal descendants of the Golden Fleece, + may be used, 'Broad Tom,' <i>alias</i> the 'Victoria Jenny Lind,' is made + about half the length of its long brother: the upper end is only a foot + wide, broadening out to three below. + </p> + <p> + 'Tom' begat the sluice, which is of two kinds, natural and artificial. The + former is a ditch cut in the floor, with a <i>talus</i> of one to forty or + fifty. The bottom, which would soon wear away, is revetted with rough + planks and paved with hard stones, weighing ten to twenty pounds, the + grain being placed vertically. With a full head of water 400 cubic yards a + day can easily be washed. The gold, as usual, gravitates through the + chinks to the bottom, and finally is cradled or panned out. It is most + efficiently treated when the sluice is long; it demands six times more + water than the artificial article, but it wants less manual labour. This + last property should recommend it to the Gold Coast. Here, I repeat, + machinery must be used as much and manual labour as little as possible. + </p> + <p> + The artificial or portable box-sluice is a series of troughs each about + twelve feet long, like the upper compartment of 'Long Tom.' They are made + of half-inch boards, rough from the saw, the lower end being smaller to + fit into its prolongation. Each compartment is provided with a loose metal + bottom pierced with holes to admit the dust; the true bottom below it has + cross-riffles, and above it are bars or gratings to catch the coarser + stones. These sluices are mounted on trestles, and the latter are disposed + upon a slope determined by the quantity of water: the average fall or + grade may be 1 to 50. In Australia four men filling a 'Long Tom,' or + raised box-sluice, will remove and wash twenty-four cubic yards of ground + per day. When the ore is fine, mercury may be dropped into the upper end + of the sluice; and it picks up the particles, 'tailing,' as it goes, + before the two metals have run far down. Both stop at the first riffle or + resting-place. + </p> + <p> + The auriferous clays of the Gold Coast are thinly covered with humus, and + are not buried, as in Australia, by ten to thirty feet of unproductive + top-drift. The whole, therefore, can be run through the sluices before we + begin mining the underlying strata. Washing will be easier during the + Rains, when the dirt is looser; in the Dries hard and compact stuff must + be loosened by the pick and spade or by blasting. There will not be much + loss by float-gold, flour-gold, or paint-gold, the latter thus called + because it is so fine as to resemble gilding. Spangles and specks are + found; but the greater part of the dust is granular, increasing to 'shotty + gold.' The natives divide the noble ore into 'dust-gold' and + 'mountain-gold.' The latter would consist of nuggets, 'lobs,' or pépites, + and of crystals varying in size from a pin's head to a pea. The form is a + cube modified to an octahedron and a rhombic dodecahedron. These rich + finds are usually the produce of pockets or 'jewellers' shops.' I am not + aware if there be any truth in the rule generally accepted: 'The forms of + gold are found to differ according to the nature of the underlying rock: + if it is slate the grains are cubical; if granite they are flat plates and + scales.' + </p> + <p> + And, lastly, the sluice begat the jet, or hydraulicking proper, which is + at present the highest effort of placer-mining. We thus reverse the + primitive process which carried the wash-dirt to the water; we now carry + the water to the wash-dirt. In California I found the miners washing down + loose sandstones and hillocks of clay, passing the stuff through sluices, + and making money when the gold averaged only 9<i>d</i>. and even 4<i>d</i>. + to the ton. A man could work under favourable circumstances twenty to + thirty tons a day. An Australian company, mentioned by Mr. R. Brough + Smyth, with 200 inches of water, directed by ten hands, 'hydraulicked' in + six days 224,000 cubic feet of dirt. The results greatly vary; in some + places a man will remove 200 cubic yards a day, and in others only 50. + </p> + <p> + Hydraulic mining on the Gold Coast, owing to the conformation of the + country, will be a far simpler and less expensive process than in + California or Australia. In the latter water has first to be bought, and + then to be brought in pipes, flumes, leats, or races from a considerable + distance, sometimes extending over forty miles. It is necessary to make a + reservoir for a fall. The water then rushes through the flexible hose, and + is directed by a nozzle against the face of the excavation. The action is + that of a fireman playing upon a burning house. Most works on mining + insist upon those reservoirs, and never seem to think of washing from + below by the force-pump. + </p> + <p> + I have shown that the surface of the lands adjoining the Ancobra is a + series of hummocks, rises, and falls, sometimes, though rarely, reaching + 200 feet; that water abounds, and that it is to be had gratis. In every + bottom there is a drain, sometimes perennial, but more often a blind gully + or creek, [Footnote: The gully feeds a 'creek,' the creek a river.] which + runs only during the Rains, and in the Dries carries at most a succession + of pools. Here Norton's Abyssinian tubes, sunk in the bed after it has + been carefully worked by the steam-navvy for the rich alluvium underlying + the surface, would act like pumps, and dams would form huge tanks. Nor + would there be any difficulty in making reservoirs upon the ridge-tops, + with launders, or gutters, to collect the rain. Thus work would continue + throughout the year, and not be confined, as at present, to the dry + season. A pressure of 100 to 200 lbs. per square foot can easily be + obtained, and the force of the jet is so great that it will kill a man on + the spot. The hose should be of heavy duck, double if necessary, rivetted + and strengthened by metal bands or rings—in fact, the crinoline-hose + of Australia. Leather would be better, but hard to repair in case of + accidents by rats; guttapercha would be expensive, and perhaps thin metal + tubes with flexible joints may serve best. The largest hose carried by + iron-clads measures 19 to 20 inches in diameter, and is worked by 30 to 40 + horse-power. Other vessels have a 15-inch hose worked by manual labour, + fifty men changed every ten minutes, and will throw the jet over the royal + yards of a first-class man-of-war. The floating power-engines attached to + the Dockyard reserves would represent the articles required. + </p> + <p> + With a diameter of from ten to fifteen inches, and a nozzle of three to + four inches, a 'crinoline-hose' will throw a stream a hundred feet high + when worked by the simplest steam-power process, and tear down a hill more + rapidly than a thousand men with shovels. The cost of washing gravel, + sand, and clay did not exceed in our colonies 1<i>d.</i> to 2<i>d.</i> per + ton; and thus the working expenses were so small that 4<i>d.</i> worth of + gold to the ton of soft stuff paid a fair profit. Lastly, there is little + danger to the miner; and this is an important consideration. + </p> + <p> + It is well known that California was prepared for agriculture and + viticulture by 'hydraulicking' and other mining operations. It will be the + same with the Gold Coast, whose present condition is that of the + Lincolnshire fens and the Batavian swamps in the days of the Romans. Let + us only have a little patience, and with patience perseverance, which, + 'dear my Lord, keeps honour bright.' The water-jet will soon clear away + the bush, washing down the tallest trees; it will level the ground and + will warp up the swamp till the surface assumes regular raised lines. We + run no risk of covering the face of earth with unproductive clay. Here the + ground is wanted only as a base for vegetation; sun and rain do all the + rest. And thus we may hope that these luxuriant wastes will be turned into + fields of bustling activity, and will tell the tale of Cameron and me to a + late posterity. + </p> + <p> + But gold is not the only metal yielded by the Gold Coast. I have already + alluded in the preceding pages to sundry silver-lodes said to have been + worked by the old Hollanders. As is well known, there is no African gold + without silver, and this fact renders the legend credible. Even in these + dullest of dull days 63,337<i>l</i>. worth was the export of 1880. Iron is + everywhere, the land is stained red with its oxide; and manganese with + cobalt has been observed. I have mentioned that at Akankon my companion + showed me a large vein of cinnabar. Copper occurs in small quantities with + tin. This metal is found in large veins streaking the granite, according + to M. Dahse, who gave me a fine specimen containing some ten and a half + per cent. of metal. He has found as much as twelve per cent., when at home + 2 to 2-1/2 per cent. pays. [Footnote: 'The present percentage of block-tin + derived from all the tin-ore ... of Cornwall is estimated at 2 per cent., + or nearly 45 lbs. to the ton of ore.'—Davies, p. 391.] The aspect of + the land is diamantiferous; [Footnote: I hear with the greatest pleasure + that a syndicate has been formed for working the diamond-diggings of + Golconda, a measure advocated by me for many years. Suffice to say here + that the Hindús rarely went below 60 feet, because they could not unwater + the mine, and that the Brazilian finds his precious stones 280 feet below + the surface. Moreover the Indian is the only true diamond: the Brazilian + is a good and the Cape a bad natural imitation.] and it has been noticed + that a crystal believed to be a diamond has been found in auriferous + gravel. In these granitic, gneissose, and quartzose formations topazes, + amethysts and sapphires, garnets and rubies, will probably occur, as in + the similar rocks of the great Brazilian mining-grounds. The seed-pearl of + the Coast-oyster may be developed into a tolerable likeness of the + far-famed pear-shaped <i>Margarita</i> of Arabian Katifah, which was + bought by Tavernier for the sum, then enormous, of 110,000<i>l</i>. + </p> + <p> + Pearl-culture is an art now known even to the wild Arab fisherman of the + far Midian shore. Lastly, the humble petroleum, precious as silver to the + miner-world, has been found in the British Protectorate about New Town. + </p> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2H_APPE2" id="link2H_APPE2"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + APPENDIX II. — PART I. — LIST OF BIRDS COLLECTED BY CAPTAIN + </h2> + <h3> + BURTON AND COMMANDER CAMERON. + </h3> + <p> + By R. BOWDLER SHARPE, F.L.S. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Vulturine Sea-eagle. Gypohierax angolensis. + Osprey. Pandion haliaetus. + Touracou. Corythaix persa. + Red-headed Hornbill. Buceros elatus. + Black Hornbill. Tockus semifasciatus. + Red-throated Bee-eater. Meropiscus gularis. + Blue-throated Roller with Eurystomus afer. + yellow bill. + Kingfisher with black and red bill. Halcyon senegalensis. + Small Woodpecker. Dendropicus lugubris. + Sun-bird. Anthothreptes rectirostris. + Grey Flycatcher. (3 spec). Muscicapa lugens. + Dull olive-green Flycatcher with Hylia prasina. + pale eyebrow. 19. + Common Swallow. 33. Hirundo rustica. + Black Swallow with white throat. 30. Waldenia nigrita. + Grey-headed Wagtail. 22. Motacilla flava. + Black and chestnut Weaver-bird. 23. Hyphantornis castaneofuscas. + Turtle-dove. 15 Turtur semitorquatus. + Whimbrel. 5 Numenius phćopus. + Grey Plover. 13 Squatarola helvetica. + Common Sandpiper. 18 Tringoides hypoleucus. + Spur-winged Plover. 11 Lobivanellus albiceps. + Green Heron. 7 Butoides atricapilla. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + PART II. — LIST OF PLANTS COLLECTED ON THE GOLD COAST BY CAPTAIN BURTON AND COMMANDER + CAMERON, R.N. + + (FURNISHED BY PROFESSOR OLIVER.) + + <i>A considerable number of specimens either in fruit only or fragmentary + were not identifiable.</i> + + Oncoba echinata, Oliv. + Hibiscus tiliaceus, L. + " Abelmoschus, L, + Glyphća grewioides, Hk. f. + Scaphopetalum sp. ? fruit. + + Gomphia reticulata, P. de B. + " Vogelii, Hk. f, + " aff. G. Mannii, Oliv. an sp. nov. ? + Bersama? sp. an B. maxima? <i>fruit only</i> + Olaoinea? an Alsodeiopsis? <i>fruit only</i> + Hippocratea macrophylla, V. + Leea sambucina, W. + Paullinia pinnata, L. + ? Eriocoslum sp. (fruiting specimen). + Cnestis ferruginea, DC. + Pterocarpus esculentus, Sch. + Baphia nitida, Afz, + Lonchocarpus sp.? + Drepanocarpus lunatus, Mey. + Phaseolus lunatus? <i>imperfect</i> + Dialium guineense, W, + Berlinia an B. acuminata? var. (2 forms.) + Berlinia (same?) in fruit. + Pentaclethramacrophylla, Bth. + Combretum racemosum, P. de B.? + Combretum comosum, Don. + Lagunoularia racemosa, Gaertn. + Begonia sp. flowerless. + Modecca sp. nov. ? flowerless. + Sesuvium Portulacastrum? barren. + Tristemma Schumacheri, G. and P. + Smeathmannia pubescens, R. Br. + Sabicea Vogelii, Benth. var. + Ixora sp. f + Rutidea membranacea? Hiern. + Randia acuminata? Bth. + Dictyandra ? sp. nov. + Urophyllum sp. Gardenia? sp. + Gardenia ? sp + Pavetta ? sp. + Canthium, cf. C. Heudelotii, cf. Virecta procumbens, Hiern.; Sm. + Seven imperfect Rubiaceć (Mussćndć, & c.). + Diospyros sp.? (corolla wanting). + Ranwolfia Senegambić, A. DC. + Tabernćmontana sp. in fruit. + Apocynacea, fragment, in fruit. + Two species of Strychnos in fruit: one with 1-seeded fruit singular and + probably new; the other a plant collected by Barter. + Ipomća paniculata, Br. + Physalis minima, L. + Datura Stramonium ? scrap. + Clerodendronscandens, Beauv. + Brillantaisia owariensis, Beauv. + Lankesteria Barteri, Hk. + Lepidagathis laguroidea, T. And. + Ocyinum viride, W. + Platystomum africanum, Beauv. + Brunnichia africana, Welw. + Teleianthera maritima, Moq. + Phyllanthus capillaris, Muell. Arg., var. + Alchornea cordata, Bth. (fruit). + Cyclostemon? sp. (in fruit only). + Ficus, 3 species. + Musanga Smithii ? (young leafy specimens). + Culcasia sp, (no inflorescence), + Anchomanes, cf. A. dubius (no attached inflorescence). + Anubias ? sp. (no inflorescence). + Palisota thyrsiflora? Bth. (imperfect). + Palisota prionostachys, C.B.C. + " bracteosa, C.B.C. + Pollia condensata, C.B.C. (fruit). + Aneilema ovato-oblongum, P. de B. + Aneilema beninense, Kth. + Crinum purpurascens, Herb. + Hćmanthus cinnabarinus? Denc. + Dracćna? sp. (fruit). + " (in fruit) aff. D. Cameroonianć, Bkr. + Flagellaria indica, L. + Cyrtopodium (? Cyrtopera longifolia, B.f.), no leaf. + Bulbophyllum ? sp. (no inflorescence). + Costus afer? Ker. + Trachycarpus (fruit) (= Vogel, no. 13). + + Phrynium brachystachyum, Körn. (fruit). + Cyperus distans, L. + " sp. + " cf. C. ligularis, L. + Mariscus umbellatus, V. + Panicum ovalifolium, P, de B. + Centotheca lappacea, Desv. + In fruit: a fragment, perhaps Anacardiacea. + Pteris (Campteria) biaurita, L. + " (Litobrochia) Burtoni, n. sp. 62. + + Pteris (Litobrochia) atrovirens, Willd. + Lonchitis pubescens, Willd. + Nephrolepis ramosa, Moore. + " acuta, Presl. + Nephrodium subquinquefidum, Hook. + Nephrodium, type and var, N. variabile, Hook. + Nephrodium pennigerum, Hook. + Nephrodium? sp. + Acrostichum sorbifolium, L. + " fluviatile, Hook. + Lygodium pinnatifidum, Sw. + Selaginella Vogelii, Spring. + " near anceps, A. Br.? + " near cathedrifolia Spring. +</pre> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + FUNGI, NAMED BY Dr. M. C. COOKE. + + Lentinus sp. + Polyporus (Mesopus) heteromorphus, Lev. + Polyporus (Mesopus) acanthopus, Fr. + Polyporus (Pleuropus)lucidas, Fr. + Polyporus (Pleuropus) sanguineus, Fr. + + Polyporus (Placodermei) australis, Fr. + Polyporus (Placodermei) hemitephrus, Berh. + Trametes Carteri, Berk. + " occidentalis, Fr. + Dćdalea sangninea, Kl. + Hydnum nigrum? Fr. + Cladoderris dendritica, Pers. + Stereum sp. + + <i>The remainder not determinable.</i> +</pre> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0022" id="link2H_4_0022"> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + INDEX. + </h2> + <p> + [Transcriber's Note: This index applies to both volumes I and II of this + work. The entries in this text- ebook have only the volume number, and not + the page number.] + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Abesebá, ii. + Abonsá (river), the, ii. + Abosu (mining village), ii. + the mine. + Africa, West, + proposed exchange of colonies between English and French, i. + trial by jury in, ii. + Amazon settlements. + African, characteristics of the 'civilised,' ii. + limited power of kings, + travelling, + Hades, + disinclination to agriculture. + 'African Times,' the, character of its journalism, i. ; ii. + Ahema, discovery of a diamond at, ii. + Ahoho (ant), the, ii. + Ajámera, ii. + Aji Bipa (mine), general description of, ii. + Aka-kru, ii. + Akankon concession, the, + origin of name, ii. + mineral riches, + situation, + general description and capabilities, + native squabbles over title, + Cameron's scheme for its working and local establishment, + occupation suggested for the leisure of the mining staff, + working hours and food. + Akim, ii. + Akra, earthquake at, ii. + Akromási, ii. + Akus (tribe), the, ii. + Albreda, i. + Alligator-pear (<i>Pertea gratislima</i>), the, i. + Alta Vista (Mt. Atlas), i. + Ananse (silk spider), the, ii. + Ancobra (river), the, + origin of name, ii. + Anima-kru, ii. + Apankru, a 'great central depôt,' ii. + Apateplu (watch-bird), the, ii. + Apatim concession, the, capabilities of, ii. + Apó (chief), ii. + Apollonia, ii. + Apollonians (tribe), the, ii. + Arábokasu, ii. + situation of. + Ashanti, the 'scare' from, ii. + treaties with England, + Sir Garnet Wolseley's settlement only a partial success, + the royal place of human sacrifice, + her exclusion from the seaboard, + real and pretended causes of discontent, + the English Government's preparations to meet the 'imminent' invasion, + the King's excuses, + a mission of peace, + power and purport of the Gold Axe, + surrender of a false axe, + advocacy of a 'beach' for the Ashantis. + Assini (river), the, ii. + Atalaya (Canaries), and its troglodytic population, i. + Athole Hock, the, ii. + Axim, Port, + picturesque aspect of, ii. + the fort, + dispensary, + tomb of a Dutch governor, + climate, + the town, + poisonous pools, + paradoxes of prison life, + social phases, + characteristics of inhabitants, + peculiarities of personal names, + a negro 'king,' + his suite, + native swords, + native music, + 'compliments' to African chiefs, + geological notes, + stone implements, + revenue, + postal communication, + 'the threshold of the Gold-region,' + gold gathering, + hints on gold-mining, + fetish, + departure of caravan from, + cost of transport at, + cocoa-trees, + lagoonland, + the 'Winding Water,' + the bars of the river. + + Ball, a native, ii. + Bamboo-palm (<i>Raphia rigifera</i>), the, ii. + Bambúk mines, the, ii. + Bance (Bence's Island), i. + Bassam (Grand), ii. + Bathurst, physical formation, i. + history, + graveyard, + general aspect, + its 'one compensating feature,' + the black health officer, + commissariat quarters, + reminiscences respecting, + inhabitants, + dress, + religion, + horses, + the Wólof, the only native tongue spoken by Europeans, + the 'African Times,' + Chinese coolie labour advocated, + administrative expenses, + exports. + Beds, African, ii. + Béin, origin of name, ii. + the fort, + Birds, list of, collected by Capt. Burton and Commander Cameron, ii. + Black Devil Society (Liberia), ii. + Blake, Admiral Robert, at Tenerife, i. + Blay, King, state visit of, ii. + his guest-house, + costume, + served with a writ, + his inflamed foot attributed to fetish, + property in mines, + loyalty to British Government. + Bobowusúa (a fetish-island), ii. + Boma (fetish-drum), the, ii. + Bombax-trees (<i>Puttom Ceiba</i>), i.; ii. + Bonnat, M., ii. + Bosomato, ii. + Bottomless Pit (Little Bassam), the, ii. + Boutoo, etymology of, i. + Brackenbury, Capt., on the capabilities of the Gold Coast, ii. + Brezo (<i>Erica arborea</i>), the, i. + Bristol barque trade, the, on the West African coast, i. + Brovi (hardest wood), ii. + Bulama (colony), Capt. Beaver's description of, i. + Bulloms (tribe), i. + Butabué rapids, the, ii. + + Calabar-Bean (<i>Physostigma venenosum</i>), ii. + Caldera de Bandana (Grand Canary), i. + Camara dos Lobos, i. + Cameron, Commander, his track and researches along the Gold Coast; i., ii. + personal account of further visits to the goldmines. + Cańádas del Pico, Las, geological formation of; i. + flora, + average temperature. + Canarian Triquetra, the, i. + Canaries, the, cock-fighting at; i. + wine trade. + Canary-bird (<i>Fringilla Canaria</i>) the, i. + Canary (wine), i. + Cankey-stones, ii. + Cape Apollonia, origin of its name, ii. + Cape Girăo, i. + Mount, + Palmas, + St. Mary, + Verde, derivation of name. + Capirote, or Tinto Negro (<i>Sylvia aticapilla</i>), the, i. + Cavally (river), the, ii. + Cephalonia, i. + Chasma, origin of, i. + Chigo (<i>Pulex penetrans</i>), the, ii. + Chinese coolie labour, ii. + Cinnabar vein, the, at Akankon, ii. + Cleanliness in W. African villages, ii. + Cochineal, ii. + Cocoa-tree, the, ii. + Codeso (<i>Adenocarpus frankenoides</i>), the, i. + Crannog, a, i. + Crockerville concession, description of the, ii. + tables of temperature, &c. at. + Cueva de Hielo, the, i. + Curlew (<i>Numenius arquata</i>), ii. + Custard-apple (<i>Anona squamosa</i>), i. + + Dahse concession, the, ii. + Dakar, harbour of, i. + Desertas, the, i. + Diamonds, ii. + Divining-rod, the, used in goldmining, ii. + Dixcove, ii. + Dorimas (Grand Canary), i. + Dos Idolos, i. + Dragoeiro (<i>Dracoena Draco</i>, Linn.), the, i. + Dragon-tree, the Tenerife, i. + Drake, Sir Francis, inscription at Sierra Leone attributed to him, ii. + Drewins, the, ii. + Dum (<i>Oldfieldia africana</i>), the, ii. + + Ebiásu, i. + Ebumesu (river), ii. + Eden, Dr., his account of the Guanches of Tenerife, i. + Effuenta mine, the, ii. + Elephants, ii. + Elisa Cartago, ii. + El-Islam, spread of, on the Gold Coast, ii. + Elmina, ii. + El Pilon, i. + Enfrámadié, ii. + Eshánchi (chief), ii. + Essuá-tí, Mr. McCarthy's visit to, ii. + Esubeyah, ii. + + Felfa (<i>Gatropha curoas</i>), the, ii. + Fetish, i., ii. + Fetish-pot, the, i. + Fish-trap, an African, ii. + Fiume, i. + Fort James, i. + France as a colonising power, i., + proposed exchange of her West African Colonies with England. + Freetown, ii. + French colonisation <i>versus</i> English, i. + Fresco-land, ii. + Fuerteventura, i. + Funchal, i. + + Gallinas (river), the, ii. + Gallo (fighting-cook), the, i. + at the Canaries. + Gambia (river), the, ii. + the French on the. + Garajáo (Madeira), physical formation of, ii. + Garraway trees, the, ii. + Gibraltar, physical outline of, i. + from English and Spanish points of view. + Gold Axe, the Ashanti, powers and purport of the symbol, ii. + Gold Coast, Captain Brackenbury on the, ii. + Mining Company, Limited, the. + Gold-digging in N.W. Africa, i. + origin and history, + description of the best known gold provinces, + gold signs, + estimate of the gold supply. + Gold-region, the threshold of the, i. + Gold-weights, African, i. + Gold-working, development of the modes of, ii. + Goree, i. + Grand Bassá (Liberia), ii. + Grand Canary, i. + early attacks on, + description of the cathedral of Las Palmas, + the old palace of the Inquisition, + Hispano-Englishmen of Las Palmas, + excursions, + physical conformation and general view of, + dress of inhabitants, + troglodytic populations, + cochineal culture, + fluctuations in cochineal commerce, + wine culture. + Grand Curral (Madeira), the, i. + Grand Devil, the, of Krúland, ii. + Grand Tabú (island), ii. + Granton (Akankon), description of, ii. + Grebo war, the, ii. + Ground-hog, i. + Ground-nut (<i>Arackis hypogaea</i>), i. + Guanches (of Tenerife), their mummification of the dead, i. + inscriptions, + derivation of the name, + the Guanche pandemonium. + Guinea, peach (<i>Sarcophalus esculentus</i>), the, ii. + Gyáman, history of, ii. + + Hades, an African, ii. + Hahinni (<i>formica</i>), the, ii. + Harmatan (wind), origin of name, i. + Hierro, Numidio inscriptions of, i. + Hispano-Englishmen, i. + Hornbill (<i>Buccros</i>), the, ii. + Hydraulicking, ii. + + Iboes (tribe), the, ii. + Ice-cave, an, i. + Ingotro concession, approach to the, ii. + size, + native shafts in the valley of the Námoá, + origin of name, + the country 'impregnated with gold,' + climatal considerations. + Insimankáo concession, the, ii. + situation of, + size and geographical position. + Inyoko concession, size and site, ii. + its geography and geology, + prospects. + Ionian Islands, i. + Islamism, progress of, in Africa, ii. + Izrah concession, the, ii. + derivation of name, + dimensions and site, + history, + conflicting native claims, + diary kept at the diggings, + birds, + idleness of native workmen, + geographical bearings, + formally made over by King Blay, + favourable prospects. + + James Island, i. + Japanese medlar (<i>Eriobotrya japonica</i>), the, i. + Jennings, Admiral, repulse of, in an attack on Tenerife, i. + Jervis, Admiral, failure of, before Tenerife, i. + Jungle-cow (or Nyaré antelope, <i>Bosbrachyceros</i>), the, ii. + Jyachabo (silver-stone), ii. + + Kikam, ii. + Kingfisher (<i>alcedo</i>), the, ii. + King's Croom (mining village), ii. + Kokobené-Akitáki (mine), ii. + Kola-nuts (<i>Sterculia acuminata</i>), i. + Kong Mountains, ii. + Krumen, characteristics of the, ii. + Kumasi, origin of name, ii, + Kum-Brenni, origin of name, ii. + Kumprasi, ii. + Kwábina Bosom (fetish rocks), ii. + Kwábina Sensensé (African chief), ii. + Kwansakru, a women's gold-mining village, ii. + + Labour, in West Africa, ii. + disinclination of natives to work, + influence of the decline of population on, + dearth of, + Stanley's observations, + superiority of native women to men as labourers, + estimate of the respective value of the various tribes as labourers, + wages paid to natives, + coolie immigration advocated. + Lagoon-land, ii. + Lake village, a, i. + Las Palmas, i. + Liberia, colonisation of, ii. + india-rubber and coffee produce, + 'the Black Devil Society', + progress of Islamism, + disinclination of natives to agriculture, + gold at. + Lightning-stones, ii. + Lisbon, material progress of, i. + Logan, Sir William, on 'hydraulicking', ii. + Lugar do Baixo, i. + + Machico, i. + Machim's Cross, i. + Madeira, first sight of, i. + conflicting claims of discoverers, + early accounts of, + physical contrasts with Porto Santo, + views of geologists on, + climate, + excursions, + contrasts of southern and northern coasts, + peasantry, + dress of peasants, + domestic life, + religious superstitions and morality, + emigration from, + geographical and geological characteristics, + Christmas at, + demeanour of priests at service, + amusements, + considered as a sanatorium, + sugar cultivation, + 'la petite industrie,' + tobacco, + pine-apples, + wines, + governmental shortcomings, + commerce. + Madeiran archipelago, the, geographical distribution of, i. + climate, + cedar-tree (<i>Jumperus Oxeycedrus</i>), the. + Mahogany (<i>Oldfieldia africana</i>), ii. + Mandenga (snake), the, i. + Mandengas (tribe), ii. + McCarthy, Mr. E. L., his visit to Essuá-ti, ii. + Messina, i. + Money, African, i. + Monrovia, ii. + Moslem Krambos (talisman and charm writers), ii. + Mount Atlas, height of, i. + routine ascent of, + flora, + geology, + zones of vegetation, + characteristics of snow, + extinct volcanoes, + height of the Pike. + Mount Geddia, ii. + Mount Mesurado, the 'cradle of Liberia,' ii. + Muka concession, the, i. + Mummies, i. + + Nahalo (a women's village), ii. + Negro passengers on board the 'Senegal,' i. + idiosyncrasies of, + their 'pidgin English,' + school. + Nelson, Admiral, his repulse in an attack on Tenerife, i. + Newtown, ii. + Níbá, i. + Nicknames, ii. + Nkran (formica), ii. + Nopal or Tunal plant (<i>Opuntia Tuna</i> or <i>Cactus cochinellifer</i>), i. + Numidic inscriptions, i. + + Occros (<i>Hibiscus</i>), the, ii. + Oil-palm (<i>Elais guineënsis</i>), ii. + Oji, etymology of, ii. + Ore, cost of reducing, ii. + Orotava, i. + Osprey (<i>Halićtus</i>), the, ii. + Osráman-bo (lightning-stones), ii. + + Palm-birds (<i>Orioles</i>), ii. + Palm-wine, ii. + Palmyra (<i>Borassus flabelliformis</i>), the, ii. + Papaw, the, ii. + Patras, i. + Payne, Bishop, ii. + Pearl-culture, ii. + Pico del Pilon, the, i. + Pico Ruivo, i. + Pile-dwellings, i. + Pino del Dornajito, the, i. + Plants, list of, collected by Capt. Burton and Commander Cameron, ii. + Poké Islet, ii. + Polyandry, i. + Ponta do Sol, i. + Porto Loko, ii. + Porto Santo, i. + Prince's river, ii. + geographical aspect, + gold signs, + a true lagoon-stream, + animal life, + fish, + luxuriance of vegetation, + shifting aspects and bends of the river, + mining grounds, + idiosyncrasies of native travelling, + collecting plants, + insect pests, + Prince's fort, + local fetish. + Puerto de la Luz, i. + + Retama (<i>Cytisus fragrans</i>, Lam), the, i. + + San Christobal de la Laguna, i. + Sanguis Draiconis, i. + Sánmá, i. + Santa Cruz (Madeira), i. + Santa Cruz (Tenerife), i. + Săo Joăo do Principe, i. + Senegambia, French colonisation in, i. + Sickness on the West Coast of Africa, ii. + its remedies, + Tinctura Warburgii. + Sierra Leone, situation and aspect of, ii. + geological formation, + its only antiquity—Drake's inscription, + washerwomen, + St. George's Cathedral, + the market, + fruits, + vegetables, + meat, + leather, + snakes, + plan of the 'city', + climate, + clothing and diet suitable for, + rainy season, + the 'Kissy' road, + history of, + abolition of slavery, + its four colonies, + the Sierra Leone Company, + rival races of the Aku and Ibo, + trial by jury, + religious establishments, + negro psalmody, + negro education, + influence of the Moslem faith on the negro character, + journalism, + population, + native character, + bad influence of the colony, + a 'peddling' people, + agriculture, + the true system of negro education, + Chinese coolie labour advocated, + Stanley's observations on the natives', + disinclination to agriculture. + Sisaman (the African Hades), ii. + Slavery, notes on, ii. + Snakes, ii. + Spanish account of the repulse of Nelson from Santa Cruz de Tenerife, i. + Spiders, native beliefs concerning, ii. + Spur-plover (<i>Lobivanellus albiceps</i>), the, ii. + Stanley's, Mr., observations on the African labour question, ii. + St. John concession, the, ii. + St. Mary Bathurst, i. + Stone implements, ii. + Su, the African radical of water, ii. + Sulaymá river, the, ii. + Sulphur, on Mount Atlas, analysis of, i. + Susus (tribe), the, i. + Swallow (<i>Wardenia nigrita</i>), the, ii. + Swanzy establishment, the, ii. + Swords, i. + + Tábayba (<i>Euphorbia canariensis</i>), the, ii. + Tagus, the, i. + Tákwá, i. + character of its inhabitants, + geology. + Tamsoo-Mewoosoo mine, the, ii. + Tartessus, i. + Tasso Island, i. + Tebribi Hill (mine), ii. + Telde (Grand Canary), i. + Tenerife, i. + material progress of, + aridity, + religious establishments, + general aspect of streets, + Guanche mummies, + ancient implements and dress, + range of civilisation of the Guanches, + ancient inscriptions, + Guanche skulls, + catacombs, + dwellings of the Guanches, + powers of the Guanches as swimmers, + polyandry, + derivation of the name Guanche, + derivation of the name Tenerife, + language, + dress and personal appearance of inhabitants, + Irish immigration to, + hotel diet, + Jardin de Aclimatacion, + routine ascent of Mount Atlas, + geological formation, + volcanic type, + flora, + snow, + volcanoes, + height of Mount Atlas, + Admirals Blake, Jennings, and Jervis's defeats, + Nelson's repulse, + tobacco culture, + fighting-cocks, + wine. + Teyde, i. + Til-trees (<i>Oreodaphne foetens</i>), i. + Timnis (tribe), the, i. + Tinctura Warburgii, ii. + Tiya (<i>P. canariensis</i>), the, i. + Trade-gin, ii. + Troglodytic populations, i. + Tsetze-fly (<i>Glossinia morsitans</i>), the, i. + Tsil-fui-fui-fui (bird), the, ii. + Tumento, meaning of name, ii. + the 'grand central depôt,' + Cameron's illness at, + geographical position of. + + Vái (tribe), ii. + Venice, i. + Vulture (Gypohierax angolensis), the, ii. + + Wages, scale of, on Gold Coast, ii. + Warry (a native game), ii. + Wásawahili (tribe), the, ii. + Wilberforce memorial, the, at Sierra Leone, i. + 'Willyfoss' (Wilberforce) nigger, a, ii. + Winwood Reade, cited, ii. + Wólof, the, tongue spoken by Europeans, i. + Wólofs (tribe), the, i. + Wolseley, Sir Garnet, at Ashanti, ii. + Women's gold-mining village, a, ii. + + Zante, i. + Zodiacal light, the, i. + + THE END +</pre> + <div style="height: 6em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of To The Gold Coast for Gold, Vol. II, by +Richard Francis Burton and Verney Lovett Cameron + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TO THE GOLD COAST FOR GOLD *** + +***** This file should be named 18506-h.htm or 18506-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/1/8/5/0/18506/ + +Produced by Carlo Traverso, S.R. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: To The Gold Coast for Gold, Vol. II + A Personal Narrative + +Author: Richard Francis Burton and Verney Lovett Cameron + +Release Date: June 5, 2006 [EBook #18506] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TO THE GOLD COAST FOR GOLD *** + + + + +Produced by Carlo Traverso, S.R. Ellison, and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net. (This +file was produced from images generously made available +by the Bibliotheque nationale de France (BnF/Gallica) at +http://gallica.bnf.fr). + + + + + + + + + +TO THE GOLD COAST FOR GOLD + +_A Personal Narrative_ + +BY Richard F. Burton AND Verney Lovett Cameron + +In Two Volumes--Vol. II. + + + + +CONTENTS OF THE SECOND VOLUME + + +CHAPTER + + XII. THE SA LEONITE AT HOME AND ABROAD + + XIII. FROM SA LEONE TO CAPE PALMAS + + XIV. FROM CAPE PALMAS TO AXIM + + XV. AXIM, THE GOLD PORT OF THE PAST AND THE FUTURE + + XVI. GOLD ABOUT AXIM, ESPECIALLY AT THE APATIM OR BUJIA CONCESSION + + XVII. THE RETURN--VISIT TO KING BLAY; ATABO AND BEIN + +XVIII. THE IZRAH MINE--THE INYOKO CONCESSION--THE RETURN TO AXIM + + XIX. TO PRINCE'S RIVER AND BACK + + XX. FROM AXIM TO INGOTRO AND AKANKON + + XXI. TO TUMENTO, THE 'GREAT CENTRAL DEPOT' + + XXII. TO INSIMANKAO AND THE BUTABUE RAPIDS. + +XXIII. TO EFFUENTA, CROCKERVILLE, AND THE AJI BIPA HILL + + XXIV. TO THE MINES OF ABOSU, OF THE 'GOLD COAST,' AND OF THE TAKWA + ('AFRICAN GOLD COAST') COMPANIES + + XXV. RETURN TO AXIM AND DEPARTURE FOR EUROPE + + CONCLUSION + + + + * * * * * + +APPENDIX. + +I. + Sec.1. THE ASHANTI SCARE + Sec.2. THE LABOUR-QUESTION IN WESTERN AFRICA + Sec.3. GOLD-DIGGING IN NORTH-WESTERN AFRICA + +II. + PART I.--LIST OF BIRDS COLLECTED BY CAPTAIN BURTON AND COMMANDER CAMERON + + PART II.--LIST OF PLANTS COLLECTED ON THE GOLD COAST BY CAPTAIN BURTON +AND COMMANDER CAMERON, R.N. (FURNISHED BY PROFESSOR OLIVER) + + * * * * * + +INDEX + + + +TO THE GOLD COAST FOR GOLD. + + + +CHAPTER XII. + +THE SA LEONITE AT HOME AND ABROAD. + +In treating this part of the subject I shall do my best to avoid +bitterness and harsh judging as far as the duty of a traveller--that of +telling the whole truth--permits me. It is better for both writer and +reader to praise than to dispraise. Most Englishmen know negroes of pure +blood as well as 'coloured persons' who, at Oxford and elsewhere, have +shown themselves fully equal in intellect and capacity to the white races +of Europe and America. These men afford incontestable proofs that the +negro can be civilised, and a high responsibility rests upon them as the +representatives of possible progress. But hitherto the African, as will +presently appear, has not had fair play. The petting and pampering +process, the spirit of mawkish reparation, and the coddling and +high-strung sentimentality so deleterious to the tone of the colony, were +errors of English judgment pure and simple. We can easily explain them. + +The sad grey life of England, the reflection of her climate, has ever +welcomed a novelty, a fresh excitement. Society has in turn lionised the +_marmiton_, or assistant-cook, self-styled an 'Emir of the Lebanon;' the +Indian 'rajah,' at home a _munshi_, or language-master; and the 'African +princess,' a slave-girl picked up in the bush. It is the same hunger for +sensation which makes the mob stare at the Giant and the Savage, the Fat +Lady, the Living Skeleton, and the Spotted Boy. + +Before entering into details it will be necessary to notice the history of +the colony--an oft-told tale; yet nevertheless some parts will bear +repetition. +[Footnote: The following is its popular chronology:-- + 1787. First settlers (numbering 460) sailed. + 1789. Town burnt by natives (1790?). + 1791. St. George's Bay Company founded. + 1792. Colonists (1,831) from Nova Scotia. + 1794. Colony plundered by the French. + 1800. Maroons (560) from Jamaica added. + 1808. Sa Leone ceded to the Crown; 'Cruits' introduced. + 1827. Direct government by the Crown.] + +According to Pere Labat, the French founded in 1365 Petit Paris at +'Serrelionne,' a town defended by the fort of the Dieppe and Rouen +merchants. The official date of the discovery is 1480, when Pedro de +Cintra, one of the gentlemen of Prince Henry 'the Navigator,' visited the +place, after his employer's death A.D. 1463. In 1607 William Finch, +merchant, found the names of divers Englishmen inscribed on the rocks, +especially Thos. Candish, or Cavendish, Captain Lister, and Sir Francis +Drake. In 1666 the Sieur Villault de Bellefons tells us that the river +from Cabo Ledo, or Cape Sierra Leone, had several bays, of which the +fourth, now St. George's, was called _Baie de France_. This seems to +confirm Pere Labat. I have noticed the Tasso fort, built by the English in +1695. The next account is by Mr. Surveyor Smith, [Footnote: He is mentioned +in the last chapter.] who says 'it is not certain when the English became +masters of Sierra Leone, which they possessed unmolested until Roberts the +pirate took it in 1720.' Between 1785 and 1787 Lieutenant John Matthews, +R.N., resided here, and left full particulars concerning the export +slave-trade, apparently the only business carried on by the British. + +Modern Sa Leone is the direct outcome of Lord Chief Justice Mansfield's +memorable decision delivered in the case of Jas. Somerset _v_. Mr. James +G. Stewart, his master. 'The claim of slavery never can be supported; the +power claimed never was in use here or acknowledged by law.' This took +place on June 21, 1772; yet in 1882 the Gold Coast is not wholly +free. [Footnote: Slavery was abolished on the Gold Coast by royal command +on December 7, 1874; yet the _Gold Coast Times_ declares that domestic +slavery is an institution recognised by the law-courts of the +Protectorate.] + +Many 'poor blacks,' thrust out of doors by their quondam owners, flocked +to the 'African's friend,' Granville Sharp, and company. Presently a +charitable society, with a large command of funds and Jonas Hanway for +chairman, was formed in London; and our people, sorely sorrowing for their +newly-found sin, proposed a colony founded on philanthropy and free labour +in Africa. Sa Leone was chosen, by the advice of Mr. Smeathman, an old +resident. In 1787 Captain Thompson, agent of the St. George's Bay Company, +paid 30_l_. to the Timni chief, Naimbana, _alias_ King Tom, for the rocky +peninsula, extending twenty square miles from the Rokel to the Ketu River. +In the same year he took out the first batch of emigrants, 460 black +freed-men and about 60 whites, in the ship _Nautilus_, whose history so +far resembled that of the _Mayflower_. Eighty-four perished on the +journey, and not a few fell victims to the African climate and its +intemperance; but some 400 survived and built for themselves Granville +Town. These settlers formed the first colony. + +In 1790 the place was attacked by the Timni tribe, to avenge the insult +offered to their 'King Jimmy' by the crew of an English vessel, who burnt +his town. The people dispersed, and were collected from the bush with some +difficulty by Mr. Falconbridge. This official was sent out from England +early in 1791, and his wife wrote the book. In the same year (1791) St. +George's Bay Company was incorporated under Act 31 Geo. III. c. 55 as the +'Sierra Leone Company.' Amongst the body of ninety-nine proprietors the +foremost names are Granville Sharp, William Wilberforce, William Ludlam, +and Sir Richard Carr Glynn. They spent 111,500_l_. in establishing and +developing the settlement during the first ten and a half years of its +existence; and the directors organised a system of government, closely +resembling the British constitution, under Lieutenant Clarkson, R.N. + +Next year the second batch of colonists came upon the stage. The negroes +who had remained loyal to England, and had been settled by the Government +in Nova Scotia, found the bleak land utterly unsuitable, and sent home a +delegate to pray that they might be restored to Africa. The directors +obtained free passage in sixteen ships for 100 white men and 1,831 +negroes. Led by Lieutenant Clarkson, they landed upon the Lioness range in +March (1792), after losing sixty of their number. + +Bred upon maize and rice, bread and milk, the new comers sickened on +cassava and ground-nuts. They had no frame-houses, and the rains set in +early, about mid-May, before they had found shelter. The whites were +attacked with climate-fever, which did not respect even the doctors. +Quarrels and insubordination resulted, and 800 of the little band were +soon carried to the grave. Then a famine broke out. A ship from England, +freighted with stores, provisions, and frame-houses, was driven back by a +storm. Forty-five acres had been promised to each settler-family; it was +found necessary to diminish the number to four, and the denseness of the +bush rendered even those four unmanageable. Disgusted with Granville Town, +the new comers transferred themselves to the present site of Freetown, the +northern _Libreville_. + +The Company offered annual premiums to encourage the building of +farm-houses, stock-rearing, and growing provisions and exportable produce. +Under Dr. Afzelius, afterwards Professor at Upsal, who first studied the +natural history of the peninsula, they established an experimental garden +and model farm. An English gardener was also employed to naturalise the +large collection of valuable plants from the East and West Indies and the +South Sea Islands supplied by Kew. The Nova Scotians, however, like true +slaves, considered agriculture servile and degrading work--a prejudice +which, as will be seen, prevails to this day not only in the colony, but +throughout the length and breadth of the Dark Continent. + +Meanwhile war had broken out between England and France, causing the +frequent detention of vessels; and a store-ship in the harbour caught +fire, the precursor of a worse misfortune. On a Sunday morning, 1794, as +the unfortunates were looking out for the Company's craft (the _Harpy_), a +French man-of-war sailed into the roadstead, pillaged the 'church and the +apothecary's shop,' and burnt boats as well as town. The assailant then +wasted Granville, sailed up to Bance Island, and finally captured two +vessels, besides the long-expected _Harpy_. Having thus left his mark, he +disappeared, after granting, at the Governor's urgent request, two or +three weeks' provision for the whites. Famine followed, with sickness in +its train, and the neighbouring slave-dealers added all they could to the +sufferings of the settlement. + +In the same year Zachary Macaulay, father of Lord Macaulay, became +Governor for the first time. The Company also made its earliest effort to +open up trade with the interior by a mission, and two of their servants +penetrated 300 miles inland to Timbo, capital of that part of Pulo-land. A +deputation of chiefs presently visited the settlement to propose terms; +but the futility of the negro settler was a complete obstacle to the +development of the internal commerce, the main object for which the +Company was formed. Yet the colony prospered; in 1798 Freetown numbered, +besides public buildings, about 300 houses. + +In 1800 the Sierra Leone Company obtained a Charter of Justice from the +Crown, authorising the directors to appoint a Governor and Council, and to +make laws not repugnant to those of England. During the same year the +settlers, roused to wrath by a small ground-rent imposed upon their farms, +rose in rebellion. This movement was put down by introducing a third +element of 530 Maroons, who arrived in October. They were untamable +Coromanti (Gold Coast) negroes who boasted that among blacks they were +what the English are among whites, able to fight and thrash all other +tribes. They had escaped from their Spanish masters when the British +conquered Jamaica in 1655; they took to the mountains, and, joined by +desperadoes, they built sundry scattered settlements. [Footnote: In 1738, +after regular military operations, the Maroons of Jamaica agreed to act as +police and to deliver up runaways. In 1795 the Trelawny men rebelled, and, +having inflicted a severe loss upon the troops, were deported to Nova +Scotia and Sa Leone.] Introducing these men fostered the ill-feeling +which, in the earlier part of the present century, prevented the rival +sections from intermarrying. Many of the disaffected Sa Leonites left the +colony; some fled to the wilds and the wild ones of the interior, and a +few remained loyal. + +Rumours of native invasions began to prevail. The Governor was loth to +believe that King Tom would thus injure his own interests, until one +morning, when forty war-canoes, carrying armed Timnis, were descried +paddling round the eastern point. Londoners and Nova Scotians fled to the +fort, and next day the Timni drum sounded the attack. The Governor, who +attempted to parley, was wounded; but the colonists, seeing that life was +at stake, armed themselves and beat off the assailants, when the Maroons +of Granville Town completed the rout. After this warning a wall with +strong watch-towers was built round Freetown. + +Notwithstanding all precautions, another 'Timni rising' took place in +1803. The assailants paddled down in larger numbers from Porto Loko, +landed at Kissy, and assaulted Freetown, headed by a jumping and drumming +'witch-woman.' Divided into three storming parties, they bravely attacked +the gates, but they were beaten back without having killed a man. The dead +savages lay so thick that the Governor, fearing pestilence, ordered the +corpses to be cast into the sea. + +The first law formally abolishing slavery was passed, after a twenty +years' campaign, by the energy of Messieurs Clarkson, Stephen, +Wilberforce, and others, on May 23, 1806. In 1807 the importation of fresh +negroes into the colonies became illegal. On March 16, 1808, Sa Leone +received a constitution, and was made a depot for released captives. This +gave rise to the preventive squadron, and in due time to a large +importation of the slaves it liberated. Locally called 'Cruits,' many of +these savages were war-captives; others were criminals condemned to death, +whom the wise chief preferred to sell than to slay. With a marvellous +obtuseness and want of common sense our Government made Englishmen by +wholesale of these wretches, with eligibility to sit on juries, to hold +office, and to exercise all the precious rights of Englishmen. Instead of +being apprenticed or bound to labour for some seven years under +superintendence, and being taught to clear the soil, plant and build, as +in similar cases a white man assuredly would have been, they were allowed +to loaf, lie, and cheat through a life equally harmful to themselves and +others. 'Laws of labour,' says an African writer, [Footnote: _Sierra Leone +Weekly Times_, July 30, 1862.] 'may be out of place (date?) in England, but +in Sierra Leone they would have saved an entire population from trusting +to the allurements of a petty, demoralising trade; they would have saved +us the sight of decayed villages and a people becoming daily less capable +of bearing the laborious toil of agricultural industry. To handle the hoe +has now become a disgrace, and men have lost their manhood by becoming +gentlemen.' I shall presently return to this subject. + +Thus the four colonies which successively peopled Sa Leone were composed +of destitute paupers from England, of fugitive Nova Scotian serviles, of +outlawed Jamaican negroes, and of slave-prisoners or criminals from every +region of Western and inner Africa. + +The first society of philanthropists, the 'Sierra Leone Company,' failed, +but not without dignity. It had organised a regular government, and even +coined its own money. In the British Museum a silver piece like a florin +bears on the obverse 'Sierra Leone Company, Africa,' surrounding a lion +guardant standing on a mountain; the reverse shows between the two numbers +50 and 50 two joined hands, representing the union of England and Africa, +and the rim bears 'half-dollar piece, 1791,' the year of the creation of +the colony. The Company's intentions were pure; its hopes and expectations +were lofty, and the enthusiasts flattered themselves that they had proved +the practicability of civilising Africa. But debt and native wars ended +their career, and transferred, on January 1, 1808, their rights to the +Crown. The members, however, did not lose courage, but at once formed the +African Institution, the parent of the Royal Geographical Society. + +The government of the Crown colony has undergone some slight +modifications. In 1866 it was made, with very little forethought, a kind +of government-general, the centre of rule for all the West African +settlements. The unwisdom of this step was presently recognised, and Sa +Leone is now under a charter dated December 17, 1874, the governor-in-chief +having command over the administration of Bathurst, Gambia. Similarly +farther south, Lagos, now the Liverpool of West Africa, has been +bracketed, foolishly enough, with the Gold Coast. + +The liberateds, called by the people 'Cruits,' and officially +'recaptives,' soon became an important factor. In 1811 they numbered 2,500 +out of 4,500; and between June 1819 and January 1833 they totalled 27,167 +hands. They are now represented by about seventeen chief, and two hundred +minor, tribes. A hundred languages, according to Mr. Koelle, increased to +a hundred and fifty by Bishop Vidal, and reduced to sixty by Mr. Griffith, +are spoken in the streets of Freetown, a 'city' which in 1860 numbered +17,000 and now 22,000 souls. The inextricably mixed descendants of the +liberateds may be a total of 35,430, more than half the sum of the +original settlement, 53,862. Being mostly criminals, and _ergo_ more +energetic spirits, they have been the most petted and patronised by +colonial rule. There were governors who attempted to enforce our wise old +regulations touching apprenticeship, still so much wanted in the merchant +navy; but disgust, recall, or death always shortened their term of office. +Naturally enough, the 'Cruits' were fiercely hated by Colonists, Settlers, +and Maroons. Mrs. Melville reports an elderly woman exclaiming, 'Well, +'tis only my wonder that we (settlers) do not rise up in one body and +_kill_ and _slay_, _kill_ and _slay!_ Dem Spanish and Portuguese sailors +were quite right in making slaves. I would do de same myself, suppose I +were in dere place.' 'He is only a liberated!' is a favourite sneer at the +new arrivals; so in the West Indies, by a curious irony of fate, +'Willyfoss nigger' is a term of abuse addressed to a Congo or Guinea +'recaptive.' But here all the tribes are bitterly hostile to one another, +and all combine against the white man. After the fashion of the Gold Coast +they have formed themselves into independent caucuses called 'companies,' +who set aside funds for their own advancement and for the ruin of their +rivals. + +The most powerful and influential races are two--the Aku and the Ibo. The +Akus [Footnote: This is a nickname from the national salutation, 'Aku, ku, +ku?' ('How d'ye do?')] or Egbas of Yoruba, the region behind Lagos, the +Eyeos of the old writers, so called from their chief town, 'Oyo,' are +known by their long necklaces of tattoo. They are termed the Jews of +Western Africa; they are perfect in their combination, and they poison +with a remarkable readiness. The system of Egba 'clanship' is a favourite, +sometimes an engrossing, topic for invective with the local press, who +characterise this worst species of 'trades-union,' founded upon +intimidation and something worse, as the 'Aku tyranny' and the 'Aku +Inquisition.' The national proverb speaks the national sentiment clearly +enough: '_Okan kau le ase ibi, ikoko li asi imolle bi atoju imolle tau, ke +atoju ibi pella, bi aba ku ara enni ni isni 'ni'_ ('A man must openly +practise the duties of kinship, even though he may privately belong to a +(secret) club; when he has attended the club he must also attend to the +duties of kinship, because when he dies his kith and kin are those who +bury him'). + +The Ibos, or 'Eboes' of American tales, are even more divided; still they +feel and act upon the principle 'Union is strength.' This large and savage +tribe, whose headquarters are at Abo, about the head of the Nigerian +delta, musters strong at Sa Leone; here they are the Swiss of the +community; the Kruboys, and further south the Kabenda-men being the +'Paddies.' It is popularly said that while the Aku will do anything for +money, the Ibo will do anything for revenge. Both races are astute in the +extreme and intelligent enough to work harm. Unhappily, their talents +rarely take the other direction. In former days they had faction-fights: +the second eastern district witnessed the last serious disturbance in +1834. Now they do battle under the shadow of the law. 'Aku constables will +not, unless in extreme cases, take up their delinquent countrymen, nor +will an Ebo constable apprehend an Ebo thief; and so on through all the +different tribes,' says the lady 'Resident of Sierra Leone.' If the +majority of the jury be Akus, they will unhesitatingly find the worst of +Aku criminals innocent, and the most innocent of whites, Ibos, or Timnis +guilty. The Government has done its best to weld all those races into one, +and has failed. Many, however, are becoming Moslems, as at Lagos, and this +change may have a happier effect by introducing the civilisation of +El-Islam. + +Trial by jury has proved the reverse of a blessing to most non-English +lands; in Africa it is simply a curse. The model institution becomes here, +as in the United States, a better machine for tyranny than any tyrant, +except a free people, ever invented. The British Constitution determines +that a man shall be tried by his peers. Half a dozen of his peers at Sa +Leone may be full-blooded blacks, liberated slaves, half-reformed +fetish-worshippers, sometimes with a sneaking fondness for Shango, the +Egba god of fire; and, if not criminals and convicts in their own country, +at best paupers clad in dishclouts and palm-oil. The excuse is that a +white jury cannot be collected among the forty or fifty eligibles in +Freetown. It is vain to 'challenge,' for other negroes will surely take +the place of those objected to. No one raises the constitutional question, +'Are these half-reclaimed savages my peers?' And if he did, Justice would +sternly reply, 'Yes.' The witnesses will forswear themselves, not, like +our 'posters,' for half a crown, but gratis, because the plaintiff or +defendant is a fellow-tribesman. The judge may be 'touched with a +tar-brush;' but, be he white as milk, he must pass judgment according to +verdict. This state of things recalls to mind the Ireland of the early +nineteenth century, when the judges were prefects armed with a penal code, +and the jurymen vulgar, capricious, and factious partisans. + +Surely such a caricature of justice, such an outrage upon reason, was +never contemplated by British law or lawgiver. Our forefathers never +dreamt that the free institutions for which they fought and bled during +long centuries would thus be prostituted, would be lavished upon every +black 'recaptive,' be he thief, wizard, or assassin, after living some +fourteen days in a black corner of the British empire. Even the Irishman +and the German must pass some five years preparing themselves in the +United States before they become citizens. Sensible Africans themselves +own that 'the negro race is not fitted, without a guiding hand, to +exercise the privileges of English citizenship.' A writer of the last +century justly says, 'Ideas of perfect liberty have too soon been given to +this people, considering their utter ignorance. If one of them were asked +why he does not repair his house, clear his farm, mend his fence, or put +on better clothes, he replies that "King no give him work dis time," and +that he can do no more than "burn bush and plant little _cassader_ for +yam."' + +But a kind of _hysterica passio_ seems to have mastered the cool common +sense of the nation--a fury of repentance for the war about the Asiento +contract, for building Bristol and Liverpool with the flesh and blood of +the slave, and for the 2,130,000 negroes supplied to Jamaica between 1680 +and 1786. Like a veteran devotee Great Britain began atoning for the +coquetries of her hot youth. While Spain and Portugal have passed sensible +laws for gradual emancipation, England, with a sublime folly, set free by +a stroke of the pen, at the expense of twenty millions sterling the born +and bred slaves of Jamaica. The result was an orgy for a week, a +systematic refusal to work, and for many years the ruin of the glorious +island. + +If the reader believes I have exaggerated the state of things long +prevalent at Sa Leone, he is mistaken. And he will presently see a +confirmation of these statements in the bad name which the Sa Leonite +bears upon the whole of the western coast. Yet, I repeat, the colony is +changed for the better, physically by a supply of pure water, morally by +the courage which curbed the black abuse. Twenty years ago to call a negro +'nigger' was actionable; many a 5_l._ has been paid for the indulgence of +_lese-majeste_ against the 'man and brother;' and not a few 50_l._ when +the case was brought into the civil courts. After a rough word the Sa +Leonite would shake his fist at you and trot off exclaiming, 'Lawyer Rainy +(or Montague) lib for town!' A case of mild assault, which in England +would be settled by a police-magistrate and a fine of five shillings, +became at Freetown a serious 'bob.' Niger, accompanied by his friends or +his 'company,' betook himself to some limb of the law, possibly a +pettifogger, certainly a pauper who braved a deadly climate for uncertain +lucre. His interest was to promote litigation and to fill his pockets by +what is called sharp practice. After receiving the preliminary fee of +_5l_., to be paid out of the plunder, he demanded exemplary damages, and +the defendant was lightened of all he could afford to pay. When the +offender was likely to leave the station, the _modus operandi_ was as +follows. The writ of summons was issued. The lawyer strongly recommended +an apology and a promise to defray costs, with the warning that judgment +would go by default against the absentee. If the defendant prudently +'stumped up,' the affair ended; if not, a _capias_ was taken out, and the +law ran its course. A jury was chosen, and I have already told the +results. + +At length these vindictive cases became so numerous and so scandalous that +strong measures became necessary. Governor Blackall (1862-66) was brave +enough to issue an order that cases should not be brought into the civil +courts unless complainants could prove that they were men of some +substance. Immense indignation was the result; yet the measure has proved +most beneficial. The negro no longer squares up to you in the suburbs and +dares the 'white niggah' to strike the 'black gen'leman.' He mostly limits +himself to a mild impudence. If you ask a well-dressed black the way to a +house, he may still reply, 'I wonder you dar 'peak me without making +compliment!' The true remedy, however, is still wanting, a 'court of +summary jurisdiction presided over by men of honour and probity.' +[Footnote: _Wanderings in West Africa_, ii. pp. 231-23.] + +It cannot be said that the Sa Leonite has suffered from any want of +religious teaching or educational activity. On the contrary, he has had +too much of both. + +After the collapse of Portuguese missionary enterprise on the West Coast, +the first attempts to establish Wesleyan Methodism at Sa Leone were made +in 1796, when Dr. Thomas Coke tried and failed. The Nova Scotian colonists +in 1792 had already brought amongst them Wesleyans, Baptists, and Lady +Huntingdon's connexion. This school, which differs from other Methodists +only in Church government, still has a chapel at Sa Leone. Thus each sect +claims 1792 as the era of its commencement in the colony. In 1811 Mr. +Warren, the first ordained Wesleyan missionary, reached Freetown and died +on July 23, 1812. He was followed by Mrs. Davies, the prima donna of the +corps: she 'gathered up her feet,' as the native saying is, on December +15, 1815. Since that time the place has never lacked an unbroken +succession of European missionary deaths. + +The Church Missionary Society, founded in 1799, sent out, five years +afterwards, its first representatives, MM. Renner and Hartwig, Germans +supported by English funds. In 1816 they devoted themselves steadily to +converting the 'recaptives,' and many of them, together with their wives, +fell bravely at their posts. In twenty years thirty-seven out of seventy +died or were invalided. The names of Wylander and W. A. B. Johnson are +deservedly remembered. Nearly half a million sterling was spent at Sa +Leone, where the stone church of Kissy Road was built in 1839, and that of +Pademba Road in 1849. The grants were wisely withdrawn in 1862. At the +present moment only 300_l_. is given, and the church is reported to be +self-supporting. The first bishopric was established in 1852. In 1861 +Bishop Beckles instituted the native Church pastorate: its constitution is +identical with that of the Episcopalians, whose ecclesiastical functions +it has taken over. + +According to the last census-returns, Sa Leone contains 18,660 +Episcopalians; 17,093 Wesleyans and Methodists of the New Connection; +2,717 Lady Huntingdonians; 388 Baptists, and 369 Catholics. These native +Christians keep the Sundays and Church festivals with peculiar zest, and +delight in discordant hymns and preaching of the most ferocious kind. The +Dissenting chapel combines the Christy minstrel with Messieurs Moody and +Sankey; and the well-peppered palaver-sauce of home cookery reappears in +hotly spiced, bitterly pious sermons and 'experiences;' in shouts of +'Amen!' 'Glory!' and 'Hallelujah!' and in promiscuous orders to 'Hol' de +fort.' Right well do I remember while the rival pilots, Messieurs Elliot +and Johnson, were shamelessly perjuring themselves in the police-court, +[Footnote: _Wanderings in West Africa_, i. pp. 256-58.] the junior +generation on the other side of the building, separated by the thinnest of +party-walls, was refreshing itself with psalms and spiritual songs. + +We went to hear the psalmody. Ascending the staircase in the gable +opposite the court-house, we passed down the hall, and saw through the +open door the young idea at its mental drill in the hands of a pedagogue, +apparently one of the [Greek: _anaimosarka_], who, ghastly white and +thatched with Paganini hair, sat at the head of the room, the ruling body +of the unruly rout. Down the long length, whose whitewashed walls were +garnished with inscriptions, legal, moral, and religious, all sublime as +far as size went, were ranged parallel rows of _negrillons_ in the vast +costumal variety of a ragged school. They stood bolt upright, square to +the fore, in the position of ' 'tention,' their naked toes disposed at an +angle of 60ş, with fingers close to the seams of their breeches (when not +breekless), heads up and eyes front. Face and body were motionless, as if +cast in ebony: nothing moved but the saucer-like white eyes and the +ivory-lined mouths, from whose ample lips and gape issued a prodigious +volume of sound. Native assistants, in sable skins and yellowish white +chokers, carrying music-scores and armed with canes, sloped through the +avenues, occasionally halting to frown down some delinquent, whose body +was not perfectly motionless, and whose soul was not wholly fixed upon the +development of sacred time and tune. I have no doubt that they sang-- + + The sun, the moon, and all the stars, &c. + +precisely in the same spirit as if they had been intoning-- + + Peter Hill! poor soul! + Flog 'um wife, oh no! oh no! + +and that famous anthropological assertion-- + + Eve ate de appel, + Gib one to daddy Adam; + And so came mi-se-ry + Up-on dis worl'. + _Chorus (bis)_ Oh sor-row, oh sor-row! + Tri-bu-la-tion + Until sal-va-tion day. + +It is a pity that time and toil should be thus wasted. The negro child, +like the Hindu, is much sharper, because more precocious, than the +European; at six years he will become a good penman; in fact, he +promises more than he can perform. Reaching the age of puberty, his +capacity for progress suddenly disappears, the physical reason being +well known, and the 'cute lad becomes a _dummer Junge_. Mrs. Melville +thus describes her small servant-girl from one of these schools: 'She +looks almost nine years old; and, as far as reading goes, she knows +nothing more than her alphabet; can repeat the Prayer-Book Catechism by +rote, and one or two hymns, utterly ignorant all the while of the import +of a single word.' Even in Europe education, till lately, exercised the +judgment too little, the memory too much; consequently there were more +learned men than wise men. The system is now changing, and due attention +is paid to the _corpus sanum_, the first requisite for the _mens sana_. +The boys at Sa Leone are kept nine hours in school, learning verse by +heart, practising a vocalisation which cannot be heard without pain, and +toiling at the English language, which some missionaries seem to hold a +second revelation. Far better two or three hours of the 'three Rs' and +six of the shop or workyard. Briefly, the system should be that of the +Basle Missionary Society, [Footnote: I deeply regret that _Wanderings in +West Africa_ spoke far less fairly of this establishment than it +deserves. My better judgment had been warped by the prejudiced accounts +of a fellow-traveller.] which combines abstract teaching with practical +instruction in useful handicraft, and which thus suggests the belief +that work is dignified as it is profitable. + +The Sa Leonites from their earliest days were greedy to gain knowledge as +the modern Greeks and Bulgarians; but the motive was not exalted. Their +proverb said, 'Read book, and learn to be rogue as well as white man.' +Hence useless, fanciful subjects were in vogue;--algebra, as it were, +before arithmetic;--and the poor made every sacrifice to give their sons a +smattering of Latin, Greek, and Hebrew. The desire of entering the +'professions' naturally affected the standard of education. What is still +wanted at Sa Leone is to raise the mass by giving to their teaching a more +practical turn, which shall cultivate habits of industry, economy, and +self-respect, and encourage handicrafts and agriculture as well as trade. + +I have already noticed the Fourah Bay College. The Church Missionary +Grammar-School, opened in 1845, prepares boarders and day-scholars for +university education; and the curriculum is that of an ordinary English +grammar-school. The establishment, which has already admitted over 1,000 +boys, is now self-supporting, and has an invested surplus, with which +tutors are sent to England for higher instruction in 'paedagogia.' The +Wesleyan High School for Boys, opened in 1874, receives youths from +neighbouring colonies; that for girls, originating with Mrs. Godman, the +wife of a veteran missionary still on the Coast, was founded in 1879. It +was cordially taken up by the natives, who subscribed all the funds. The +founders thought best to adopt the commercial principle; but no one as yet +has asked for profit, and the school shows signs of prosperity and +progress. The Annie Walsh Memorial School for Girls, dating from a bequest +by the lady whose name it bears, is under the management of the Church +Missionary Society. The Catholics are, as usual, well to the fore. The +priests keep a large school for boys, and the sisters educate young women +and girls. I have before described the dark novice,-- + + Under a veil that wimpled was full low; + And over all a black stole shee did throw. + +The masters also make their children learn Arabic and English. There is a +manliness and honesty in the look of the Mandenga and the Susu never seen +in the impudent 'recaptive.' The dignity of El-Islam everywhere displays +itself: it is the majesty of the monotheist, who ignores the degrading +doctrine of original sin; it is the sublime indifference to life which +_kaza wa kadar_, by us meagrely translated 'fatalism,' confers upon the +votaries of 'the Faith.' These are not the remarks of a prejudiced +sympathiser with El-Islam: many others have noted the palpable superiority +of the Moslem over the missionary convert and the liberated populace of Sa +Leone. + +As a rule journalism on the West Coast is still in the lowest stage of +Eatanswillism, and the journal is essentially ephemeral. The newspapers of +twenty years ago are all dead and forgotten. Such were the 'African +Herald,' a 'buff' organ, edited by the late Rev. Mr. Jones, a West Indian, +and its successor, the 'African Weekly Times.' The 'Sierra Leone Gazette' +succumbed when the Wesleyans established (1842) the 'Sierra Leone +Watchman.' Other defuncts are the 'Free Press,' a Radical paper, +representing Young Sa Leone, and a fourth, the 'Intelligencer,' which +strove to prove what has sometimes been asserted at negro +indignation-meetings, namely, that 'a white man, if _he behave himself_, +is as good as a black man.' Cain, like the rest of the family, was a +negro; but when rebuked by the Creator he turned pale with fear, a tint +inherited by his descendants. The theory is, _par parenthese_, as good as +any other. The only papers now published are the 'West African Reporter,' +whose proprietor and editor was the late Hon. Mr. Grant, and the +'Watchman,' a quasi-comic sheet. + +The worst feature of journalism in West Africa is that fair play is +unknown to it. The negroes may thoroughly identify themselves with +England, claim a share in her greatness, and display abundant lip-loyalty; +yet there is the racial aversion to Englishmen in the concrete, and to +this is added the natural jealousy of seeing strangers monopolise the best +appointments. The Sa Leonite openly declares that he and his can rule the +land much better and more economically than the sickly foreigner, who +spends half his service-time on board the steamers and at home. 'Dere goes +another white raskel to his grave!' they will exclaim at the sight of a +funeral. 'Wish dey all go and leave colony to US.' And as the reading and +paying public is mainly composed of Nigers, the papers must sooner or +later cater for their needs, and lose no opportunity of casting obloquy +and ridicule upon the authorities and Albus in general. We can hardly +blame them. I have shown that the worst and most scandalous display of +journalism comes from London. + +After the church, the school, and the newspaper, the most important +civilising institution is the market. Sa Leone is favourably situated for +collecting the interior trade, and yet seven-tenths of the revenue is +derived from articles passing through the Loko and Rokel rivers; the rest +is levied from wines, spirits, and tobacco, and in the form of +preposterous harbour-dues. The export duties are light, but the exports do +not seem to have increased as rapidly as they should have done during the +last twenty years; this, too, despite missions into the interior and the +hospitable reception of native chiefs and their messengers. There are no +assessed or house taxes. The revenue and expenditure of the past five +years have averaged, respectively, 63,869_l_. and 59,283_l_., leaving a +surplus of 4,586_l_., which might profitably be expended upon roads. But +the liabilities of the colony early in 1881 still amounted to 50,637_l_., +being the balance of a debt resulting principally from the harbour-works. + +The present population of the original settlement--including British Kwiah +(Quiah), an early annexation--is 53,862. The dependencies, Isles de Los, +Tasso, Kikonkeh, and British Sherbro, according to the census of 1881, add +6,684, a figure which experts would increase by 4,000. The total, +therefore, in round numbers, would be nearly 65,000. At the last census +only 163 were resident whites; the crews and passengers of ships in port +added 108. + +On the whole the Sa Leonite cannot be called a success. Servants in shoals +present themselves on board the steamers, begging 'ma'sr' to take them +down coast. In vain. The fellow is handier than his southern brother: he +can mend a wheel, make a coffin, or cut your hair. Yet none, save the +veriest greenhorn, will engage him in any capacity. As regards civility +and respectfulness he is far inferior to the _emancipado_ of Cuba or the +Brazil; with a superior development of 'sass,' he is often an inveterate +thief. He has fits of drinking, when he becomes mad as a Malay. He +gambles, he overdresses himself, and he indulges in love-intrigues till he +has exhausted his means, and then he makes 'boss' pay for all. With a +terrible love of summonsing, and a thorough enjoyment of a law-court, he +enters into the spirit of the thing like an attorney's clerk. He soon +wearies of the less exciting life in the wilder settlements, where orgies +and debauchery are not fully developed; home-sickness seizes him, and he +deserts his post; probably robbing house or till. + +Even a black who has once visited Sa Leone is considered spoilt for life, +as if he had spent a year in England. Hence the eccentric Captain Phil. +Beaver declared that he 'would rather carry a rattlesnake than a negro who +has been in London.' I have met with some ugly developments of +home-education. One was a yellow Dan Lambert, the son of a small +shopkeeper, who was returning--dubbed a 'Templar'--from the Land of +Liberty. He was not a pleasant companion. His face was that of a porker +half-translated; he yelped the regular Tom Coffee laugh; and when asked +why Sa Leone had not contributed to the Crimean Widow Fund, he uttered the +benevolent wish that 'the damned ---- and their brats might all starve +like their husbands.' Another was a full-blooded negro, a petty huckster +at the 'Red Grave,' who, in his last 'homeward' voyage, had met at Madeira +the Dean and Deaness of Oxbridge. The lady resolved to keep up the +creditable acquaintanceship: so strong is feminine love for the 'black +lion.' Shortly afterwards Niger paid his promised visit, which he +described graphically and sans sense of shame--how he had been met at the +station by a tall gentleman in uniform and gold-laced hat, how he was +invited to enter a carriage, and how great was his astonishment when the +'officer' preferred standing in the open air behind to accompanying him +inside. After this naive _debut_ he showed tact. Mr. Dean wished to know +if anything could be done towards advancing the interesting guest in his +'profession'--not trade. We talk of an English school-master, but a +mulatto or a negro becomes a 'professor.' Niger whispered 'No,' which, +ladylike, meant a distinct 'Yes.' He ended by graciously accepting an +introduction to a Manchester firm, and soon relieved it of 16,000_l_. + +No one who knows the West African coast will assert that the influence of +Sa Leone has been in any way for good. All can certify that this colony, +intended as a 'model of policy,' and founded with the object of promoting +African improvement, has been the greatest obstacle to progress. She +fought to keep every advantage to herself, and she succeeded in securing a +monopoly of 'recaptives,' who were more wanted elsewhere. She became an +incubus in 1820, when all British possessions from N. Lat. 20ş to S. Lat. +20ş were made her dependencies. The snake was scotched in 1844 by the Gold +Coast achieving her independence. Yet Sa Leone raised herself to a +government-general in 1866, and possibly she will do so again. + +The Sa Leonite has ever distinguished himself by kicking down, as the +phrase is, the ladder which raised him. No man maltreats his wild brother +so much as the so-called 'civilised' negro: he never addresses his +congener except by 'You jackass!' and tells him ten times a day that he +considers such trash like the dirt beneath his feet. Consequently he is +hated and despised withal, being of the same colour as, while assuming +such excessive superiority over, his former equals. No one also is more +hopeless about the civilisation of Africa than the semi-civilised African +returning to the 'home of his fathers.' He feels how hard has been his +struggle to emerge from savagery; he acknowledges, in his own case, a +selection of species; and he foresees no end to the centuries before there +can be a nation equal even to himself. Yet in England and in books he will +cry up the majesty of African kings,--see, for a specimen, Bishop +Crowther's 'Niger Diary.' He will give his fellow-countrymen, whom he +thoroughly despises, a thousand grand gifts of morals and industry. I have +heard a negro assert, with the unblushing effrontery which animates the +Exeter Hall speechifier, that at some African den of thieves men leave +their money with impunity in the storehouse or on the highway. I read the +assertion of a mulatto, who well knew the contrary, 'A white man who +supposes himself respected in Africa, because he is white, is grievously +mistaken.' The 'aristocracy of colour' is a notable and salient fact in +Africa, where the chiefs are lighter hued and better grown than their +subjects; and the reason is patent--they marry the handsomest women. + +Finally, the Sa Leonite is the horror of Europeans on the West Coast. He +has been formally expelled by his neighbours, the Liberians. At Lagos and +Abeokuta he lost no time in returning to his original fetishism, which the +'recaptive' apparently can never throw off. Moreover, he became an +inveterate slave-dealer, impudently placing himself under native +protection, and renegading the flag that saved the crime-serf from +lifelong servitude. These 'insolent, vagabond loafers' were the only men +who gave me much trouble in the so-called 'Oil rivers,' where one of them +accused a highly respected Scotch missionary of theft. Finally, the Gaboon +merchants long preferred forfeiting the benefits of the mail-steamers to +seeing themselves invaded by a locust tribe, whose loveliest view is, +apparently, that which leads out of Sa Leone. + +Part of this demoralisation arose from the over-tenderness of the British +Government, in deference to the philanthropist and the missionary. +Throughout the Bights of Benin and Biafra, where the chief stalks about +with his fetishman and his executioner, there is still some manliness +amongst men, some modesty amongst women. There the offending wife fears +beheading and 'saucy water;' here she leaves with impunity her husband, +who rarely abandons the better half. Consequently the sex has become +vicious as in Egypt--worse than the men, bad as these are. Petty larceny +is carried on to such an extent that no improvement is possible: as +regards property, the peninsula contains the most communistic of +communities. The robbers are expert to a degree; they work naked and well +greased, and they choose early dawn or the night-hour when the tornado is +most violent. The men fight by biting, squeezing, and butting with the +head, like the Brazilian _capoeira_. The women have a truly horrible way +of putting out of the world an obnoxious lover. Ask an Aku if an Ibo is +capable of poisoning you: he will say emphatically, 'Yes.' Put the same +question to an Ibo touching an Aku, and he will not reply, 'No.' + +With respect to the relative position of Japhet and Ham--perhaps I should +say Ham and Japhet--ultra-philanthropy has granted all the aspirations of +the Ethiopian melodist:-- + + wish de legislator would set dis darkie free; + Oh, what a happy place den de darkie world would be! + We'd have a darkie parliament, + An' darkie code of law, + An' darkie judges on de bench, + Darkie barristers and aw. + +I own that darkey must be defended, and sturdily defended too, from the +injustice and cruelty of the class he calls 'poor white trash;' but the +protection should be in reason, or it becomes an injustice. Why, for +instance, did the unwise negrophile propose to protect the Jamaica negro +against the Indian coolie? Because Niger wants it? Pure ignorance and +prejudice of gentlemen who stay at home! Though physically and mentally +weaker than Europeans, the negro can hold his own, as Sa Leone proves, by +that combination which enables cattle to resist lions. Japhet Albus is by +nature aggressive; if not, he would not now be dwelling in the tents of +Shem and the huts of Ham. He feels towards Contrarius Albo as the +game-cock regards the dunghill-fowl. Displays of this sentiment on the +part of the white population must be repressed; but this should be done +fairly and without passion. + +I do not for a moment regret our philanthropical move, despite its awful +waste of life and gold. England, however can do her duty to Africa without +cant, and humbug, and nonsense about the 'sin and crime of slavery.' +Serfdom, like cannibalism and polygamy, are the steps by which human +society rose to its present status: to abuse them is ignorantly to kick +down the ladder. The spirit of Christianity may tend to abolish servitude; +but the letter distinctly admits it, and the translators have unfairly +rendered 'slave' and 'bondsman' by 'servant,' which is absurd. England can +fight, if necessary, against a traffic which injures the free man, but she +might abstain from abusing those who do not share her opinions. The +anti-slavery party has hitherto acted rather from sentiment than from +reason; and Mr. Buckle was right in determining that morality must be +ruled by, and not rule, intellect. We have one point in our favour. The +_dies atra_ between 1810-20, when a man could not speak what he thought +upon the subject of slavery, ended as the last slave left the West African +coast; and yet I doubt whether the day is yet come when we can draw upon +the great labour-bank of Africa and establish that much-wanted +institution, the black _ouvrier libre_. + +There are several classes interested in pitting black man against white +man. An unscrupulous missionary will, for his own ends, preach resistance +to time-honoured customs and privileges which Niger has himself accepted. +An unworthy lawyer will urge litigation; a dishonest judge or +police-magistrate will make popularity at the expense of equity and +honour; a weak-minded official will fear the murmurs, the complaints, and +the memorials of those under him, and the tomahawking which awaits him +from the little army of negrophiles at home. But the most dangerous class +of all is the mulatto; he is everywhere, like wealth, _irritamenta +malorum_. The 'bar sinister,' and the fancy that he is despised, fill him +with ineffable gall and bitterness. Inferior in physique to his black, and +in _morale_ to his white, parent, he seeks strength by making the families +of his progenitors fall out. Had the Southern States of America deported +all the products of 'miscegenation,' instead of keeping them in servitude, +the 'patriarchal institution' might have lasted to this day instead of +being prematurely abolished. + +My first visit to Sa Leone showed me the root of all her evils. There is +hardly a peasant in the peninsula. Had the 'colony-born' or older +families, the 'King-yard men,' or recaptives, and the creoles, or children +of liberated Africans, been apprenticed and compelled to labour, the +colony would have become a flourishing item of the empire. Now it is the +mere ruin of an emporium; and the people, born and bred to do nothing, +cannot prevail upon themselves to work. But the 'improved African' has an +extra contempt for agriculture, and he is good only at destruction. Rice +and cereals, indigo and cotton, coffee and arrowroot, tallow-nuts and +shea-butter, squills and jalap, oil-palms and cocoas, ginger, cayenne, and +ground-nuts are to be grown. Copal and bees'-wax would form articles of +extensive export; but the people are satisfied with maize and roots, +especially the cassava, which to Sa Leone is a curse as great as the +potato has proved to Ireland. Petty peddling has ever been, and still is, +the 'civilised African's' _forte_. He willingly condemns himself to spend +life between his wretched little booth and his Ebenezer, to waste the week +and keep the Sabbath holy by the 'holloaing of anthems.' His _beau ideal_ +of life is to make wife and children work for, feed and clothe him, whilst +he lies in the shady piazza, removing his parasites and enjoying porcine +existence. His pleasures are to saunter about visiting friends; to grin +and guffaw; to snuff, chew, and smoke, and at times to drink +_kerring-kerry_ (_cana_ or _caxaca_), poisonous rum at a shilling a +bottle. Such is the life of ignoble idleness to which, by not enforcing +industry, we have condemned these sable tickets-of-leave. + +Before quitting the African coast I diffidently suggested certain steps +towards regenerating our unhappy colony. For the encouragement of +agriculture I proposed a tax upon small shopkeepers and hucksters, who, by +virtue of sitting behind a few strings of beads or yards of calico, call +themselves traders and merchants. This measure, by-the-by, was attempted +in 1879 by Governor Rowe, but the strong opposition compelled him to +withdraw it. I would have imposed a heavy tax upon all grog-shop licenses, +and would have allowed very few retail-shops in the colony. +Police-magistrates appeared to me perfectly capable of settling disputes +and of punishing offenders. I would have discouraged the litigation which +the presence of lawyers and a bench suggests, and which causes such +heartburn between Europeans and Africans. I would have established a Court +of Summary Jurisdiction, and never have allowed a black jury to 'sit upon' +a white man, or _vice versa_; and in the case of a really deserving negro +or mulatto I would rather see him appointed Lord-Lieutenant of Ireland +than Governor or Secretary of Sa Leone. + +On my last journey I met the Hon. Mr. T. Risely Griffith, a West Indian +and Colonial Secretary at Sa Leone. He kindly read what I had written +about the white man's Grave, and found it somewhat harsh and bitter. At +the same time he gave me, with leave to use, his valuable lecture +delivered before the Royal Colonial Institute. [Footnote: _The Colonies +and India_, a weekly newspaper. London: December 17, 1881.] Making +allowance for the official _couleur de rose_, and reading between the +lines, I found that he had stated, in parliamentary language, what had +been told by me in the rude tongue of a traveller. The essay, he assured +me, had been well received at Sa Leone; and yet, to my knowledge, the +newspapers of the western coast had proposed to make it the subject of an +'indignation-meeting.' + +Hear what Mr. Griffith has to say upon the crucial question--agriculture. +'The ordinary observer cannot fail to be impressed with the great number +of traders and hawkers. In the peninsula of Sierra Leone there are +returned 53,862; of these, traders and hawkers number 10,250, or about 19 +per cent., or, including hucksters, 23 per cent. Little good can result to +a country as long as one-fourth of its people are dependent for their +livelihood for what they sell to the remaining three-quarters.... The same +tendency to engage in the work of distribution rather than the production +of wealth seems to be a general characteristic of the negro race. + +'The real number of artisans or mechanics who have any right to the term +is very limited; and it is to be regretted that in Sierra Leone, where the +people are apt to learn, and tolerably quick to apply, there is not a +greater number of thorough workmen to teach their handicrafts and make +them examples for the rising generation. A youth who has been two years +with a carpenter, boat-builder, blacksmith, or mason, arrogates the name +to himself without compunction, and frequently, whilst he is learning from +an indifferent teacher the rudiments of his trade, he sets up as a master. +There is hardly a single trade that can turn out half a dozen men who +would be certificated by any European firm for possessing a thorough +knowledge of it. Of all trades in Sierra Leone, and certainly in Freetown, +that of tailoring is the most patronised, but this arises from the love of +dress, which is inherent. + +'The proper cultivation of the soil is, and must always be, the true +foundation of prosperity in any country. The shop cannot flourish unless +the farm supports it, and the friends of the colony regard with anxiety +the centralisation of capital at Freetown. I have been gratified, however, +to notice that the desire to acquire land and cultivate it has lately +increased to a very great extent, and I regard it as a very hopeful sign +for the future. The people still want two things, capital and scientific +agricultural knowledge. The native implements are of the rudest +kind--their hoes little more than sufficient to scratch the ground, and +their only other implement a cutlass to cut down the bush. Ploughs are +unknown, and spades very little used. Wheelbarrows are detested, although +they are not quite unknown; the people would sooner "tote" the soil in a +box on their heads, and instances are on record where the negro has +"toted" the wheelbarrow itself, wheel, handle, and all.' + +Mr. Griffith further informs us that the Colonial Government is desirous +of fostering and encouraging agriculture; that it proposes to establish, +or rather to re-establish, a model farm; that lands have been granted at a +trifling sum to Mr. William Grant on condition of his devoting capital and +labour to the development of agriculture; that Mr. Thomas Bright has laid +out a coffee and cocoa farm at Murray Town; and that Mr. Samuel Lewis, a +barrister-at-law, universally well spoken of, is engaged in cultivation, +with a view of studying the best methods and of influencing his +fellow-countrymen in favour of agricultural pursuits. Major Bolton also is +working the land seventeen miles down coast, and planting cocoa-nuts, +chocolate, and Kola-trees. The latter, when ten years old, are said each +to fetch 15_l_. per annum. Here, therefore, we have at least a beginning. + +During the discussion on Mr. Griffith's lecture, some home-truths were +told by the Hon. Mr. Grant, [Footnote: This 'eminent African,' who had +gone to England with the view of buying agricultural implements and an +ice-machine, died in London on January 28, 1881. His speech, therefore, +was delivered only a week or so before his death. Much fulsome praise of +him followed in the press, which seemed completely surprised that a black +man could talk common sense.] a full-blooded negro, of the Ibo tribe, and +a member of the Sierra Leone Legislative Council. He objected to the term +'white man's Grave.' He bravely and truly told his audience that if the +French held possession of Sa Leone they would have made it a 'different +thing.' After praising the present Governor's instruction-ordinance he +spoke these remarkable words:-- + +'But education from the point I allude to is that practical education +which develops the man and makes him what he is, not the education which +makes him simply the blind imitator of what he is not. Of course the +education, as originally introduced into the colony, was an experiment, +and a grand experiment it was. They said, "There are these people, and we +will educate them as ourselves." It was a good idea, but it was defective, +because there is as great a difference between the negro and the white man +as there can be. He is capable of doing anything that the white man can +do; but then, to get him to do that, you must educate him in himself. You +must bring him out by himself: you must not educate him otherwise. He must +be educated to carry out a proper and distinct course for himself. The +complaint has been general of the want of success in the education of the +negro; but it is not his fault: the fault is from the defect of his +education. He fancies, by the sort of education which you give him, that +he must imitate you in everything--act like you, dress in broadcloth like +you, and have his tall black hat like you. Then you see the result is that +he is not himself; he confuses himself, and when he comes to act within +himself as a man he is confused, and you find fault that he has not +improved as he ought to do. But if he is properly educated you will find +him of far greater assistance to you than you have any idea of.' + +The remarks on agriculture and on capital were equally apposite; and +Captain Cameron remarked that these were the 'truest words of wisdom about +Africa that it ever was his lot to hear.' They will leave a sweet savour +in the reader's mouth after a somewhat acid chapter. + +But the ingrained idleness of generations is not so easily cleared away. +The real cure for Sa Leone will be an immigration of Chinese or of Indian +coolies, that will cheapen labour and enable men of capital to farm on a +large scale. It may be years before agriculture supplants trade with its +light work and ready profits; but the supplanting process itself will do +good. At present Sa Leone finds it cheaper to import salt from England +than to lay out a salina, and to make an article of commerce which finds +its way into the furthest interior. Immigration, I repeat, is the sole +panacea for the evils which afflict the Lioness Range. + + + +CHAPTER XIII. + +FROM SA LEONE TO CAPE PALMAS. + +Frowsy old Sa Leone bestowed on us a parting smile. After a roaring +tornado at night and its terminal deluge, the morning of January 19 broke +clear and fine. We could easily trace, amongst the curious series of +volcanic cones, the three several sanitary steps on the Leicester or +Lioness Hill. These are, first the hospice of the French Jesuits, now +officers' quarters; then a long white shed, the soldiers' hospital; and +highest (1,700 feet) the box which lodges their commandant. Even the +seldom-seen 'Sugarloaf' was fairly outlined against the mild blue vault. +Although the withering hand of summer was on the scene, the old +charnel-house looked lovely; even the low lines of the Bullom shore +borrowed a kind of beauty from the air. The hues were those of Heligoland +set in frames of lapis lazuli above and of sapphire below; golden sand, +green strand of silky Bermuda-grass, and red land showing chiefly in banks +and thready paths. Again we admired the dainty and delicate beauties of +the shore about Pirate Bay and other ill-named sites. Then bidding adieu +to the white man's Red Grave and steering south-west, we gave a wide berth +to the redoubted 'Carpenter,' upon which the waves played; to the shoals +of St. Anne, and to a multitude of others which line the coast as far as +that treacherous False Cape and lumpy Cape Shelling or Shilling, whose +prolongation is the Banana group. + +Sherbro, fifty miles distant, was passed at night. Then (sixty miles) came +the Gallinas River, a great centre of export, which has not forgotten +Pedro Blanco. This prince of slavers, whose establishment appears on the +charts of 1836-38, imported no goods; he bought cargoes offered to him and +he paid them by bills on England, drawing, says the Coast scandal, upon +two Quaker brothers at Liverpool. Not a little curious that our country +supplied the money both to carry on the _traite_ and to put it down. Three +miles south of the Gallinas the Sulayma River flows in. Here the scenery +suggests a child's first attempt at colouring in horizontal lines; a +dangerous surf ever foams white upon the yellow shore, bearing an eternal +growth of green. Two holes in the bush and a few thatched roofs, separated +by a few miles, showed the Harris factories, which caused frequent +teapot-storms between 1865 and 1878. The authorities of Liberia, model +claimants with a touch of savage mendicancy, demanded the land and +back-dues from time immemorial. 'Palaver' was at last 'set' by the late +lamented David Hopkins, consul for the Bights, in the presence of a +British cruiser and two American ships of war. + +The weather resumed its old mood, a mixture in equal parts of 'Smokes' and +of Harmatan or Scirocco. At noon next day we steamed by Cape Mount, the +northernmost boundary of Liberia, [Footnote: The 'liberateds' of Liberia, +who lose nothing by not asking, claim the shore from the Sam Pedro River +southwards to the Jong, an affluent of the Shebar or Sherbro stream, 90 +miles north of Cape Mount. We admit their pretensions as far only as the +Sugary River, four miles above the Mafa (Mafaw), or Cape Mount stream.] a +noble landmark and a place with a future. Approaching it, we first see the +dwarf bar of the Mafa, draining a huge lagoon ('Fisherman's Lake'). On the +banks and streams are sundry little villages, Kru Town and Port Robert, +the American mission-ground. The harbour is held to be the first of five, +the others being Monrovia; Grand Bassa (Bassaw), with Edina; Sinou, and +Cape Palmas. + +The Mount is an isolated rocky tongue rising suddenly like an island from +the low levels, and trending north-west to south-east. The site is +perfectly healthy; the ground is gravel, not clay, and the stone is +basalt. The upper heights are forested and full of game; the lower are +cleared and await the colonist. With the pure and keen Atlantic breeze +ever blowing over it, the Mount is a ready-made sanatorium. Its youth has +been disreputable. Here Captain Canot, [Footnote: _Wanderings in West +Africa_, vol. i. chap. v.] the Franco-Italian lieutenant of Pedro Blanco, +sold the coast till compelled by H.M. cruisers to fall back upon honest +trade. His name survives in 'Canot's Tree,' under whose shade he held his +palavers. Let us hope that the respectable middle age of Cape Mount will +be devoted to curing the sick coaster. + +Beyond this fine headland, a handsome likeness of Holyhead seen from the +south, stretch the long, low, dull shores of Liberia, canopied by unclean +skies and based on dirty-looking seas. The natives, who, as usual, are new +upon the coast, and who preserve curious traditions about their +predecessors, are the Vai (not Vei), a Mandengan race still pagan. They +call, however, the world 'duniya,' and the wife 'namusi,' words which show +whence their ideas are derived. Their colour is lighter than the Kruman's; +there are pretty faces, especially amongst the girlish boys, and the fine +feet and delicate hands are those of 'les Gabons.' And they are +interesting on two other counts. Their language combines the three several +forms of human speech, the isolating (_e.g._ 'love'), the agglutinating +('lovely'), and the polysynthetic ('loving,' 'loved'). Furthermore they +developed an alphabet, or rather a syllabary, which made much noise +amongst missionary 'circles,' and concerning which Lt. Forbes, R.N., Mr. +Norris, and Herr Koelle wrote abundant nonsense. Its origin is still +unknown. Some attribute it to direct inspiration (whatever that may mean), +others to marks traced upon the sand originally by boys stealing +palm-wine. My belief is that the suggestion came from the Moslems. Of late +years it has been waxing obsolete, and few care to write their letters in +it. + +The Vai, who extend as far as Little Cape Mount River, are depicted in a +contrast of extremes. Mr. H. C. Creswick, [Footnote: Late manager of the +'Gold Coast Mining Company.' Mr. Creswick treated the subject in 'Life +amongst the Veys' (_Trans. Ethnol. Soc. of London_, 1867). He tells at +full length the curious legend of their immigration, and notes the same +reverence for the crocodile which prevails at Dixcove and prevailed in +Egypt.] who long dwelt amongst them, and dealt with them from Cape Mount, +gives a high character to those who have not been perverted by +civilisation. He found the commonalty civil, kind, and hospitable; active +and industrious, to a certain extent. Their palm-oil is the best on the +coast, and can be drunk like that of the olive or the cod-liver. The +chiefs he describes as gentlemen. The missionaries assert that they are +wholly without morals, never punishing the infringement of marital rights; +petty thieves, and idle and feckless to the last degree. Certain Monrovia +men have laid out farms of coffee and _cacao_ (chocolate) upon the St. +Paul River, which, heading in Mandenga-land, breaks the chord of the bay; +but nothing can induce these ex-pets or their congeners, the Golas and the +Pesis, to work. + +Like most of the coast-races, the Vai seem to be arrant cowards. The +headmen salute their visitors Arab-fashion, with flourishes of the sword; +but swording ends there. Of late they were attacked by the savages of the +interior, Gallinas, Pannis, and Kusus. The latter, meaning the 'wolves' or +the 'wild boars,' is the popular nickname of the Mendi or Mindi tribes, +occupying the Sherbro-banks. They did excellent service in the last +Ashanti war (1873-74) by flogging forward the fugitive Fantis. Winwood +Keade, [Footnote: _The Story of the Ashanti Campaign_. Smith & Elder, +London, 1874. It is a thousand pities that the volume was pruned, to use +the mildest term. My friend's memory seems to brighten with the years, +doubtless the effect of his heroic honesty in telling what he held to be +the truth. His _Martyrdom of Man_, in which even his publisher did not +believe, has reached a fourth edition; it was quoted by Mr. Gladstone, and +Mrs. Grundy still buys it, in order to put it behind the fire.] an +excellent judge of Africans, declares that they are very courageous, 'keen +as mustard' for the fray. On the raid they creep up to and surround the +doomed village; they raise the war-cry shortly before sunrise, and, as the +villagers fly, they tell them by the touch. If the body feels warm after +sleep, unlike their own dew-cooled skins, it soon becomes a corpse. They +advance with two long knives, generally matchets, one held between the +teeth. They prefer the white arm because 'guns miss fire, but swords are +like the chicken's beak, that never fails to hit the grain.' Some 250 of +these desperadoes lately drove off 5,000 of the semi-civilised recreants +and took about 560 prisoners, including the 'King' of the Vai. + +After covering forty-three miles from Cape Mount we anchored (5 P.M.) in +the long, monotonous roll under Mount Mesurado. The name was probably +Monserrate, given by the early Portuguese. It is entitled the Cradle of +Liberia. The idea of restoring to Africa recaptured natives and manumitted +slaves was broached in 1770 by the Rev. Samuel Hopkins, of Newport, R.I. +The scheme for 'civilising and christianising' the natives assumed organic +form at Washington in 1816. In January 1820 the first emigrants embarked +from New York for 'Liberia.' The original grant of land was made (April +1822) to the 'American Society for Colonising the Free People of the +United States,' by King Peter and sundry chiefs of the Grain Coast, who +little knew what they were doing. The place was described in those days as +an Inferno, the very head and front of the export trade, the waters +swarming with slavers, the shore bearing forty slave-factories, and the +whole showing scenes of horror which made the site 'Satan's seat of +abominations.' It has now changed its nature with its name, and has become +the head-quarters of Dullness, that goddess who, we are assured, never +dies. + +Mesurado Mount, with the inverted cataract rushing white up its black +rocks, is a picturesque feature. Halfway clearings for coffee-plantations, +with a lime-washed bungalow, the President's country-quarters, lead to the +feathered and forested crest which bears the 'pharos.' This protection +against wreck is worse than nothing; it is lighted with palm-oil every +night, and then left to its own sweet will. Consequently the red glimmer, +supposed to show at thirteen miles, is rarely visible beyond three. A +dotting of white frame-houses and curls of blue smoke betray the capital. +It lurks behind the narrow sand-bar which banks the shallow and useless +Mesurado River, and few men land without an involuntary ablution in the +salt water. Usually the stream mouths by an ugly little bar at some +distance from the roadstead; after heavy rains it bursts the sand-strip +and discharges in straight line. + +We had visitors that evening from the Yankee-Doodle-niggery colony, +peopled by citizens who are not 'subjects.' Bishop C. C. Pinnock, absent +from his home at Cape Mount, dined with us and told me about the death of +an old friend, good Bishop Payne. His successor objects to learning and +talking native tongues, and he insists upon teaching English to all the +mission-scholars. His reasons are shrewd, if not convincing; for instance, +'most languages,' says the Right Reverend, 'have some term which we +translate "love." But "love" in English is not equivalent to its +representative in Kru or in Vai. Therefore by using their words I am +expressing their ideas; I bring them over to mine by the reverse process.' + +We shipped for Grand Bassa two citizens, a lawyer and an attorney. Of +course one was an 'Honourable;' [Footnote: Even the Coast English are +always confounding the Hon. John A. (son of a peer) with the Hon. Mr. A. +(official rank), and I have seen sundry civilians thus mis-sign +themselves.] as Mr. H. M. Stanley says, [Footnote: _Coomassie and +Magdala_. New York, Harpers, 1874.] 'mostly every other man is here so +styled.' They talked professionally of the 'Whig ticket' and the +'Re-publican party,' but they neither 'guess'd' nor 'kalklated,' and if +they wore they did not show revolvers and bowie-knives. They did not say, +'We air a go-ahead people,' they were not given to 'highfalutin',' nor did +they chew their tobacco. They were, however, accompanied by an extremely +objectionable 'infant,' aged seven, who lost no time in laying hands upon +Miss M.'s trinkets, by way of returning civility. Her father restored +them, treating the theft as a matter of course. + +The citizens gave me sundry details about the 'rubber'-trade, which began +in 1877. Monrovia now exports to England and the Continent some 100,000 +lbs., which sell at 1_s_. 4_d_. each. Gum-elastic is gathered chiefly by +the Bassa people, who are, however, too lazy to keep it clean; they store +it in grass-bags and transport it in canoes. Liberian coffee is, or rather +would be, famous if produced in sufficient quantities to satisfy demand. +At present it goes chiefly to the United States, where, like Mocha, it +serves to flavour burnt maize. Messieurs Spiers and Pond would buy any +quantity of it, and of late years Brazilian coffee-planters have taken +shoots to be grown at home. Here it fetches 1_s_. per lb.; in England the +price doubles. This coffee requires keeping for many months, or the +infusion is potent enough to cause the 'shakes;' it is the same with +Brazilian green tea. The bouquet is excellent, and the flavour pretty +good. There is a great difference in the shape of the beans, which range +between the broad flat Harar and the small, round, horny Mocha. + +I could obtain few details concerning the 'Black Devil Society,' which +suggests the old 'Know-nothings.' It has been, they say, somewhat active +in flogging strangers, especially Sa Leone men. Most of the latter, +however, have been expelled for refusing to change their style from +'subjects' to 'citizens'--a foreign word in English and Anglo-African +ears. + +At the time of our visit the republic was in a parlous state. H.E. Mr. +Gardiner, the new President, refused to swear in the Upper House, and the +Lower refused to acknowledge the Presidential authority. Consequently +business had been at a standstill for six weeks. We were disappointed in +our hopes of being accompanied by the Honourable Professor E. W. Blyden, +ex-minister to England and afterwards principal of the college. He had +travelled with Winwood Reade, and I looked forward to hearing the opinions +of an African Arabic scholar touching the progress and future of El-Islam +in the Dark Continent. That it advances with giant steps may be proved by +these figures. Between 1861 and 1862 I found at most a dozen Moslems at +Lagos; in 1865 the number had risen to 1,200, and in 1880, according to my +old friend M. Colonna, Agent Consulaire de France, it passes 10,000, +requiring twenty-seven mosques. + +The latest charts of Liberia show no less than twenty-six parallelograms +stretching inland, at various angles with the shore, and stated to have +been acquired by 'conquest or purchase' between 1822 and 1827; but the +natives, especially the Krumen, complain that after allowing the +foreigners to dwell, amongst them they have been despoiled of their +possessions, and that, once lords of the soil, they have sunk to mere +serfs. Hence the frequent wars and chronic bad blood. Every African +traveller knows the meaning of land-purchase in these regions. There are +two ideas peculiar to the negro brain, but apparently inadmissible into +European heads. The first is the non-alienation of land. Niger never parts +with his ground in perpetuity; he has always the mental reservation, while +selling it to a stranger, that the soil and its improvements return to him +by right after the death or the departure of the purchaser. Should the +settler's heirs or assignees desire to remain _in loco_, they are expected +to pay a fresh gratification; the lessor will raise his terms as high as +possible, but public opinion will oblige him to remain content with a +'dash,' or present, equivalent to that paid by the original lessee. + +The second idea is even more repugnant to European feelings. In Africa a +born chattel is a chattel for ever: the native phrase is, ''Pose man once +come up slave, he be slave all time.' There is no such thing as absolute +manumission: the unsophisticated _libertus_ himself would not dream of +claiming it. We have on board a white-headed negro in an old and +threadbare Dutch uniform, returning from Java on a yearly pension of +fifteen dollars. According to treaty he had been given by the King of +Ashanti to the Hollanders, and he had served them so long that he spoke +only Low German and Malay. He will be compelled to end his career +somewhere within the range of our fort-guns, or his owner's family will +claim and carry off their property. + +At 8 A.M. we steamed against a fine fresh wind past mount Mesurado _en +route_ for Grand Bassa (Bassaw), distant fifty-five miles. To port lies +Montserrado County, where the shore-strip looks comparatively high and +healthy. The Bassas begin some thirty miles below the Jong River, and now +we enter the regions of Grand, Middle, and Little Piccaninny +(_pequenino_), Whole and Half, _i.e._ half-way. Thus we pass, going +south-wards, Bassa, Middle Bassa, Grand Bassa, and Bassa Cove, followed by +Cestos and Cess, Settra and Sesters, Whole and Half. The coast is well +known, while the interior is almost unexplored. Probably there is no +inducement to attract strangers. + +We are grateful for small mercies, and note a picturesque view from the +open roadstead of Grand Bassa. The flats are knobbed with lumpy mounds; +North Saddle Hill, with its central seat; Tall Hill; the blue ridges of +the Bassa Hills, and St. John's Hill upon the line of its river. Nothing +can be healthier than these sites, which are well populated; and the +slopes are admirably fitted for that 'Arabian berry' whose proper home is +Africa. But, while hill-coffee has superior flavour lowland-coffee is +preferred in commerce, because the grain is larger and heavier. + +Grand Bassa is the only tract in Liberia where the Sa Leonite is still +admitted. The foreshore of yellow sand, pointed and dotted by lines and +falls of black rock, fronts a shallow bay as foul and stony as the coast. +Here are three settlements, parted by narrow walls of 'bush.' Edina, the +northernmost, is said to do more business than any other port in the +republic; she also builds fine, strong surf-boats of German and American +type, carrying from one to five tons. The keels are bow-shaped, never +straight-lined from stem to stern; and the breakers are well under the +craft before their mighty crests toss it aloft and fling it into the deep +trough. They are far superior to the boats with weather-boards in the fore +which formerly bore us to land. The crew scoop up the water as if digging +with the paddle; they vary the exercise by highly eccentric movements, and +they sing savage barcarolles the better to keep time. + +The middle settlement is Upper Buchanan, whose river, the St. John's, owns +a bar infamous as that of Lagos for surf and sharks. The southernmost, +Lower Buchanan, is defended by a long and broken wall of black reef, but +the village is far from smooth water. All these 'towns' occupy holes in a +curtain of the densest and tallest greenery. They are composed of groups +and scatters of whitewashed houses, half of them looking like chapels and +the other like toys. Each has its adjunct of brown huts, the native +quarter. These Bassa tribes must not be confounded with their neighbours +the Krumen; the languages are quite different, and the latter is of much +harsher sound. There is no doubt of this being a good place for engaging +labour, and it is hoped that in due time Bassa-hands, who work well, will +be engaged for the Gold Coast mines. At present, however, they avoid +English ships, call themselves 'Americans,' and willingly serve on board +the Yankee craft which load with coffee, cam-wood, and palm-oil. + +We steamed along the Cape, River, and Town of Sinou, the very home of the +Krao, or Krumen, strictly speaking a small tribe. Returning +homeward-bound, we here landed a host of men from the Oil-rivers, greatly +to my delight, as they had cumbered the deck with their leaky powder-kegs, +amid which wandered the sailors, smoking unconcernedly. In the 'good old +times' this would not have been allowed. At least one poor fellow was +drowned, so careful were the relatives to embark the kit, so careless of +the owner's person. Next day we sighted the 'Garraway-trees,' silk cottons +some 200 feet high, fine marks for clearing the Cape shoals. Then came +Fishtown and Rocktown, once celebrated for the exploits of Ashmun and his +associates; and at 2.15 P.M. we anchored in the heavy Harmatan roll off + + The Cape of Palmas, called from palmy shade. + +A score of years ago the A.S.S. steamers lay within half a mile of shore; +and, 'barrin'' the ducking, it was easy to land. But the bay is bossed with +rocks and skirted with shoals; they lurk treacherously under water, and +have brought many a tall ship to grief. As for the obsolete hydrographic +charts, they only add to the danger. Two wrecks give us ample warning. One +is a German barque lying close to the bar of the fussy little river; the +other, a huge mass of rust, is the hapless _Yoruba_. Years ago, after the +fashion of the _Nigritia_ and the _Monrovia_, she was carelessly lost. +Though anchored in a safe place, when swinging round she hit upon a rock +and was incontinently ripped up; the injured compartment filled, and the +skipper ran her on the beach, wrecking her according to Act of Parliament. +They once managed to get her off, but she had not power to stem the seas, +and there she still lies high and dry. + +Cape Palmas, or Bamnepo, with its outlying islet-reef of black rock, on +which breaks an eternal surf, is the theoretical turning-point from the +Windward coast, which begins with the Senegal, to the Leeward, and which +ends in the Benin Bight. We are entering the region + + _Unde nigerrimus Auster_ + Nascitur. + +Practically and commercially the former is worked by the Bristol barques +and the latter commences at Cape Threepoints. The bold headland, a hundred +feet tall and half a mile broad by a quarter long, bounded north by its +river, has a base of black micaceous granite supporting red argillaceous +loam. Everywhere beyond the burning of the billows the land-surface is +tapestried with verdure and tufted with cocoas; they still show the +traditional clump which gave the name recorded by Camoens. The neck +attaching the head to the continent-body is a long, low sand-spit; and the +background sweeps northward in the clear grassy stretches which African +travellers agree to call 'parks.' These are fronted by screens of tall +trees, and backed by the blue tops of little hills, a combination which +strongly reminded me of the Gaboon. + +The prominent building is still the large white-washed mission-house with +its ample windows and shady piazzas: the sons of St. Benedict could not +have placed it better. In rear lies the square tower yclept a lighthouse, +and manipulated like that of Monrovia; its range is said to be thirteen +miles, but it rarely shows beyond five. An adjacent flagstaff bears above +the steamer-signal the Liberian arms, stripes and a lone star not unknown +to the ages between Assyria and Texas. The body of the settlement lying +upon the river is called Harper, after a 'remarkable negro,' and its +suburbs lodge the natives. When I last visited it the people were rising +to the third stage of their architecture. The first, or nomad, is the hide +or mat thrown over a bush or a few standing sticks; then comes the +cylinder, the round hovel of the northern and southern regions, with the +extinguisher or the oven-shaped thatch-roof; and, lastly, the square or +oblong form which marks growing civilisation. The American missionaries +laboured strenuously to build St. Mark's Hospital and Church, the latter a +very creditable piece of lumber-work, with 500 seats in nave and aisles. +But now everything hereabouts is 'down in its luck.' This puerile copy, or +rather caricature, of the United States can console itself only by saying, +'Spero meliora.' + + + +CHAPTER XIV. + +FROM CAPE PALMAS TO AXIM. + +I had no call to land at Cape Palmas. All my friends had passed away; the +Rev. C. E. Hoffman and Bishop Payne, both in America. Mr. Potter, of the +stores, still lives to eat rice and palm-oil in retirement; but with the +energetic Macgill departed the trade and prosperity of the place. Senator +John Marshall, of Marshall's Hotel, has also gone to the many, and the +stranger's only place of refuge is a mean boarding-house. + +Much injury was done to the settlement by the so-called 'Grebo war.' These +wild owners of Cape Palmas are confounded by Europeans with the true +Krumen, their distant cousins. The tribal name is popularly derived from +_gre_, or _gri_, the jumping monkey, and it alludes to a late immigration. +A host of some 20,000 savages closely besieged the settlement and ravaged +all the lands belonging to the intruders, especially the fine 'French +farm.' Fighting ended with a 'treaty of peace and renewal of allegiance' +(_sic!_) at Harper on March 1, 1876, following the 'battle of Harper' +(October 10, 1875). The latter, resulting from an attack on Grebo Big +Town, proved a regular 'Bull's Run,' wherein the citizens lost all their +guns and ammunition, and where the Grebes slaughtered my true and trusty +steward, Selim Agha. + +I must allow myself a few lines in memory of a typical man. Selim was a +Nubian of lamp-black skin; but his features were Semitic down to the +nose-bridge, and below it, like the hair, distinctly African: this mixture +characterises the negroid as opposed to the negro. In the first fourth of +the present century he was bought by Mr. Thurburn--_venerabile nomen_--of +Alexandria, and sent for education to North Britain. There he learned to +speak Scotch, to make turtle-soup, to stuff birds, to keep accounts, and +to be useful and valuable in a series of ways. Then his thoughts, full of +philanthropy, turned towards the 'old mother.' The murder of Dr. Barth's +companion, Vogel, in 1856, originated seven fruitless expeditions to +murderous Waday, and he made sundry journeys into the interior. I believe +that he took service for some time with Lieutenant (now Sir John H.) +Glover before he became my factotum between 1860 and 1865. When I left the +Coast he transferred himself to Liberia, where, he wrote, they proposed to +'run him for the presidency.' Selim joined the Monrovians during the Grebo +war as an assistant-surgeon, his object being to mitigate the horrors of +the campaign; and he met his death on October 9, 1875, during the +mismanaged attack on Grebo Big Town. Captain A. B. Ellis, in his amusing +and outspoken 'West African Sketches,' quotes from the 'Liberian +Independent' the following statement: 'Mr. Selim Agha was also overtaken +by the barbarous Greboes, and one of them, "Bye Weah" by name, after +allowing him to read his Bible, which he had by him in his pocket, and +which he made a present of to the barbarian, chopped his body all about, +chopped off his head, which he took to his town with eighteen others, and +threw the body with the gift into the swamp.' The account sounds +trustworthy, especially that about the Bible: it is exactly what the poor +fellow would have done. But many have assured me that he was slaughtered +by mistake during the rout of his party. R.I.P. + +Another reminiscence. + +Although it has melancholy associations, I can hardly remember without a +smile my last visit to good Bishop Payne. He led me to the mission-school, +a shed that sheltered settles and desks, tattered books, slates and +boards, two native pedagogues, and two lines of pupils sized from the +right, the biggest being nearest the 'boss.' We took our places upon the +bench, and the catechiser, when bade to begin, opened, after a little +hesitation, as follows:-- + + _Q_. Who he be de fuss man?--_A_. Adam. + _Q_. Who he be de fuss woman?--_A_. Ebe. + _Q_. Whar de Lord put 'em?--_A_. In de garden. + _Q_. What he be de garden?--_A_. Eden. + _Q_. What else he be dere?--_A_. De sarpint. + _Q_. What he be de sarpint?--_A_. De snake. + _Q_. Heigh! What, de snake he 'peak?--_A_. No, him be debbil. + +And so forth. The reading was much in the same style. The whole scene +reminded me of a naive narrative [Footnote: _The Gospel to the Africans: +Narrative of the Life and Labours of the Rev. William Jameson._ London: +Hamilton, Adams, & Co., 1861.] which gives the 'following account of the +fall of our First Parents from the lips of an aged negro at the +examination of candidates:'-- + +'Massa (God) said Adam must nyamee (eat) all de fruit ob de garden, but +(be out, except) de tree of knowledge. And he said to Adam, "Adam! you no +muss nyamee dis fruit, else you dead." De serpent come to say to Mammy +Eve, "Dis fruit berry good; he make you too wise." Mammy she take lillee +(little) bit, and bring de oder harf gib Daddy Adam. Daddee no will taste +it fuss time, but Mammy tell him it be berry good. Den him nyamee de oder +harf. Den Daddy and Mammy been know dat dem be naked. Dey go hide for +bush. Massa come from heaven, but Him no fin' Adam all about. Den Massa +strike Him foot on de ground and say, "I wage Adam been nyamee de fruit." +Massa go seek Adam and fin' him hidin' in de bush, and put him out ob de +garden. Then Daddy and Mammy dey take leaves and sew 'em for clothes.' + +The Bishop looked on approvingly. We then spoke of the mysterious Mount +Geddia, the Lybian Thala Oros of Ptolemy. [Footnote: Lib. iv. 6, Sec.Sec. 12, +14, 16, the home of the Thala tribe.] + +The people say that it may be seen at times from Settra Kru, that the +distance by round road is some 200 miles, and that none have ascended it +on account of the intense cold. If this be fact, there is a Kilima-njaro +18,000 feet high in Western Africa. The glitter of the white cap has been +visible from great distances, and some would explain it by a bare vein of +quartz--again, Kilima-njaro. The best time to travel would be in October +or November, after the rains; and the Grebo rascals might be paid and +persuaded to supply an escort. + +At Cape Palmas we engaged thirty so-called Krumen: only seven were ready +to accompany us, and the rest came nearly two months behind time. This is +the farming season, and the people do not like to leave their field-lands. +Jack Davis, headman, chief, crimp and 'promising' party, had been warned +to be ready by Mr. R. B. N. Walker, whose name and certificate he wore +upon a big silver crescent; but as _Senegal_ appeared on Sunday instead of +Saturday, he gravely declared that his batch had retired to their +plantations--in black-man's English, 'small countries.' We were compelled +to make an advance, a measure unknown of old, and to pay more than double +hire for working on the Gold Coast. These races, Kruboys, Grebos, and +their cognates, have not improved during the last score of years. Their +headmen were old hands approaching the fifties: now they are youths of +twenty-five. The younger sort willingly engaged for three years; now they +begin to notch their tallies for every new moon, and they wax home-sick +after the tenth month. Once they were content to carry home a seaman's +chest well filled with 'chow-chow' and stolen goods; in these days they +must have ready money to deal with the Bristol barques. + +Having before described the 'Krao' and the Kru republic, with its four +recognised castes, I need not repeat myself. [Footnote: _Wanderings_, &c., +vol. ii. chap. vi., which ends with a short specimen of the language.] We +again admired the magnificent development of muscle, which stood out in +bunches as on the Farnese Hercules, set off by the most appropriate dress, +a coloured oblong of loin-cloth, tucked in at the waist. We marvelled too +at the contrast of Grecian figure and cynocephalous features, whose +frizzly thatch, often cut into garden-plots, is unnecessarily protected by +a gaudy greasy cap. + +In morals too these men are as peculiar as they are contradictory. They +work, and work well: many old Coasters prefer them to all other tribes. +They are at their best in boats or on board ship, especially ships of war, +where they are disciplined. For carrying burdens, or working in the bush, +they are by no means so valuable and yet, as will be seen, they are highly +thought of by some miners in the Gold Mines. In the house they are at +their worst; and they are a nuisance to camp, noisy and unclean. Their +chief faults are lying and thieving; they are also apt to desert, to grow +discontented, to presume, and ever to ask for more. These qualities are +admirably developed in our headman, Toby Johnson, and his gang. I should +not travel again with Krumen on the Gold Coast. + +Another of their remarkable characteristics is the fine union of the +quarrelsome with the cowardly. Like the Wanyamwezi of East-Central Africa, +they will fight amongst themselves, and fight furiously; but they feel no +shame in telling their employers that they sell their labour, not their +lives; that man can die but once; that heads never grow again, and that to +battling they prefer going back to 'we country.' If a ship take fire all +plunge overboard like seals, and the sound of a gun in the bush makes them +run like hares. Yet an English officer actually proposed to recruit a +force of these recreants for field-service in Ashanti. He probably +confounded them with the Wasawahili, the 'Seedy-boys' of the east coast, a +race which some day will prove useful when the Sepoy mutiny shall repeat +itself, or if the difficulties in Egypt be prolonged. A few thousands of +these sturdy fellows would put to flight an army of hen-hearted Hindus or +Hindis. + +We left Cape Palmas at 5 P.M., and duly respected the five-fathom deep +'Athole Rock,' so called from the frigate which first made its +acquaintance. The third victim was the B. and A. s.s. _Gambia_ (Captain +Hamilton). [Footnote: Curiously enough a steamer carrying another fine of +palm-oil has come to grief, owing, as usual, to imperfect charts.] She was +carrying home part of the 400 puncheons exacted, after the blockade of +1876, by way of fine, from Gelele, King of Dahome, by the senior naval +officer, Captain Sullivan, the Dhow-chaser. The Juju-men naturally declared +that their magic brought her to such notable grief. + +We then passed Grand Tabu (Tabou), in the middle of the bay formed by +Point Tahou--a coast better known fifty years ago than it is now. The only +white resident is Mr. Julio, who has led a rather accidented life. A +native of St. Helena, he fought for the Northerners in the American war, +and proved himself a first-rate rifle-shot. He traded on the Congo, and +travelled like a native far in the interior. Now he has married a wife +from Cape Palmas, and is the leading man at Tabu. + +This place, again, is a favourite labour-market. The return of the Krumen +repeats the spectacles of Sinou, and war being here chronic, the canoe-men +come off armed with guns, swords, and matchets. After a frightful storm of +tongues, and much bustle but no work, the impatient steamer begins to +waggle her screw; powder-kegs and dwarf boxes are tossed overboard, and +every attention is bestowed upon them; whilst a boy or two is left behind, +either to swim ashore or to find a 'watery grave.' + +Presently we sighted the bar and breakers that garnish the mouth of the +Cavally (Anglice Cawally) River: the name is properly Cavallo, because it +lies fourteen miles, riding-distance, from Cape Palmas. Here Bishop Payne +had his head-quarters, and his branch missions extended sixty miles +up-stream. On the left bank, some fifteen or sixteen miles from the +_embochure_, resides the 'Grand Devil,' equivalent to the Great God, of +Kruland. The place is described as a large caverned rock, where a +mysterious 'Suffing' (something) answers, through an interpreter, any +questions in any tongue, even English, receiving, in return for the +revelations, offerings of beads, leaf-tobacco, and cattle, which are +mysteriously removed. The oracle is doubtless worked by some sturdy knave, +a 'demon-doctor,' as the missionaries call him, who laughs at the beards +of his implicitly-believing dupes. A tree growing near the stream +represents 'Lot's wife's pillar;' some sceptical and Voltairian black was +punished for impious curiosity by being thus 'translated.' Skippers who +treated their 'boys' kindly were allowed, a score of years ago, to visit +the place, and to join in the ceremonies, even as most of the Old Calabar +traders now belong to the 'Egbo mystery.' But of late years a village +called Hidya, with land on both banks, forbids passage. Moreover, Krumen +are not hospitable. Masters and men, cast ashore upon a coast which they +have visited for years to hire hands, are stripped, beaten, and even +tortured by women as well as by men. The savages have evidently not learnt +much by a century's intercourse with Europeans. + +Leaving Cavally, the last place where Kruboys can be shipped, we coasted +along the fiery sands snowed over with surf and set in the glorious +leek-green growth that distinguishes the old Ivory Coast. The great Gulf +Stream which, bifurcating at the Azores, sweeps southwards with easting, +now sets in our favour; it is, however, partly a wind-current, and here it +often flows to the west even in winter. The ever-rolling seas off this +'Bristol coast' are almost clear of reef and shoal, and the only storms +are tornadoes, which rarely blow except from the land: from the ocean they +are exceedingly dangerous. Such conditions probably suggested the Bristol +barque trade, which still flourishes between Cape Palmas and Grand Bassam. +A modern remnant of the old Bristolian merchant-adventurers, it was +established for slaving purposes during the last century by Mr. Henry +King, maintained by his sons, Richard who hated men-of-war, and William +who preferred science, and it is kept up by his grandsons for legitimate +trade. + +The ships--barques and brigs--numbering about twenty-five, are neat, +clean, trim craft, no longer coppered perpendicularly [Footnote: Still +occurs sometimes: the idea is that as they roll more than they sail less +strain is brought on the seams of the copper.] instead of horizontally +after the older fashion. Skippers and crews are well paid for the voyage, +which lasts from a year to fifteen months. The floating warehouses anchor +off the coast where it lacks factories, and pick up the waifs and strays +of cam-wood, palm-oil, and kernels, the peculiar export of the Gold Coast: +at times a tusk or a little gold-dust finds its way on board. The trader +must be careful in buying the latter. Not only have the negroes falsified +it since the days of Bosnian, but now it is made in Birmingham. This false +dust resists nitric acid, yet is easily told by weight and bulk; it blows +away too with the breath, whilst the true does not. Again, the skippers +have to beware of 'fetish gold,' mostly in the shape of broken-up +ornaments of inferior ley. + +The Bristolians preserve the old 'round trade,' and barter native produce +against cloth and beads, rum and gin, salt, tobacco, and gunpowder. These +ship-shops send home their exports by the mail-steamers, and vary their +monotonous days by visits on board. They sail home when the cargoes are +sold, each vessel making up her own accounts and leaving 'trust,' but no +debts. The life must be like making one's home in a lighthouse, plus an +eternal roll; and the line gives a weary time to the mail-steamers, as +these never know exactly where the Bristol barques will be found. + +After hugging the coast and prospecting Biribi, we sighted the Drewins, +whose natives are a powerful and spirited race, equally accustomed to +either element. There are no better canoe-men on the coast. They ship +only on board the Bristol ships, and they have more than once flogged a +cruel skipper caught ashore. Passing King George's Town, we halted (11 +A.M., January 23) opposite the river and settlement of Fresco, where two +barques and a cutter were awaiting supplies. Fresco-land is beautified by +perpendicular red cliffs, and the fine broad beach is feathered with +cocoas which suggest _kopra_--the dried meat of the split kernel. At 3.15 +P.M. came Grand Lahou--Bosman's Cabo La Hoe--180 miles from Cape Palmas. +The native settlements of nut-brown huts in the clearings of thick forests +resemble heaps of withered leaves. The French have re-occupied a fort +twenty miles up the pretty barless river, the outlet of a great lagoon; it +was abandoned during the Prusso-Gallic war. Nine Bristol barques were +lying off Three Towns, a place not upon the chart, and at Half-Jack, 205 +miles from the Cape. Here we anchored and rolled heavily through the +night, a regular seesaw of head and heels. Seamen have prejudices about +ships, pronouncing some steady and others 'uncommon lively.' I find them +under most circumstances 'much of a muchness.' + +The next morning carried us forty miles along the Bassam country and +villages, Little, Piccaninny, and Great, to Grand Bassam. It is a regular +lagoon-land, whose pretty rivers are the outlets of the several sweet +waters and the salt-ponds. Opposite Piccaninny Bassam heads, with its +stalk to the shore and spreading out a huge funnel eastward and westward, +the curious formation known as the 'Bottomless Pit.' The chart shows a +dot, a line, and 200 fathoms. In these days of deep-sea soundings I would +recommend it to the notice of the Hydrographic Office. We know exactly as +much about it in A.D. 1882 as in A.D. 1670, when Ogilvy wrote, 'Six miles +beyond Jak, in Jakko, [Footnote: Bosman's _Jaqui-Jaqui_] is the +_Bottomless Pit_, so called from its unfathomable deepness, for the +seamen, having Sounded with their longest Lines and Plummets, could never +reach the bottom.' It would be interesting to know whether it is an area +of subsidence or a volcanic depression. The adjacent Gold Coast suffers +from terrible earthquakes, as Accra learnt to her cost in 1862. + +At 10 A.M. we made Grand Bassam, where the French have had a _Residence_ +for many years. Here the famous Marseille house of Regis Freres first made +fortune by gold-barter. The precious ore, bought by the middlemen, a +peculiar race, from the wild tribes of the far interior, appears in the +shape of dust with an occasional small nugget; the traders dislike bars +and ingots, because they are generally half copper. We have now everywhere +traced the trade from Gambia to the Gold Coast, and we may fairly conclude +that all the metal comes from a single chain of Ghauts subtending the +maritime region. + +Grand Bassam is included in the French _Cote d'Or_, but not in the English +Gold Coast, which begins east of the Ivory Coast. The Dutch was even +narrower, according to Bosnian: 'Being a part of Guinea, it is extended +about sixty miles, beginning with the Gold River (Assini) twelve miles +above Axim, and ending with Ponni, seven or eight miles east of Accra.' +Grand Bassam has only two European establishments. Eastward lies the +'Blockhouse' of M. Verdier, 'agent of the Government at Assini,' so called +from its battlemented roof. It is the old Fort Nemours, built in 1843. The +'Poste,' abandoned during the war of 1870, was let to Messieurs Swanzy; it +is a series of ridge-roofs surrounded by a whitewashed stockade. Both have +been freely accused of supplying the Ashantis with arms and ammunition +during the last war. Similarly the Gambia is said to have supported the +revolteds of Senegal. The site is vile, liable to be flooded by sea and +rain. The River Akbu or Komo (Comoe), with its spiteful little bar, drains +the realms of Amatifu, King of Assini. It admits small craft, and we see +the masts of a schooner amid the trees. The outlet of immense lagoons to +the east and west, it winds down behind the factories, and bears the +native town upon its banks. Here we discharged only trade-gin, every +second surf-boat and canoe upsetting; the red cases piled upon the beach +looked like a bed of rose-buds. The whole of this coast, as far as Axim, +is so dangerous that men land with their lives in their hands. They +disembark when outward-bound and re-embark when homeward-bound, and in the +interim they never tempt surf and sharks. + +The _Senegal_ left Grand Bassam at 5.30 P.M., to cover the eighty-five +miles separating us from our destination. The next important feature is +the Assini River, also the outlet of enormous navigable lagoons, breaking +the continuity of forest-backed sands. It lies fourteen to fifteen miles +(which the chart has diminished to seven) west of the French settlement, +of old Fort Joinville. The latter shows a tiled and whitewashed +establishment, the property of M. Verdier, outlying the normal ant-hill of +brown huts. In 1868 Winwood Reade here found a _poste_ and stockade, a +park of artillery, a commandant, a surgeon, and a detachment of +_tirailleurs senegalais_ levied amongst the warlike Moslem tribes of +Senegambia. Like Grand Bassam it was under the station admiral, who +inspected the two once a year, and who periodically sent a gunboat to +support French interests. + +By night we passed New Town, not on the charts, but famed for owning a +fine gold placer north of the town-lagoon. After my departure from the +coast it was inspected by Mr. Grant, who sent home specimens of bitumen +taken from the wells. Then came the two Assinis, eastern and western, both +places of small present importance. The 'Assini Hills' of the chart lie to +the north, not to the south of the Tando water; and by day one can easily +distinguish their broken line, blue and tree-clad. The Franco-English +frontier has been determined after a fashion. According to Mr. Stanford's +last map, [Footnote: Gold Coast, November 20, 1873. A foot-note tells us, +'The whole coast belongs to the English, the French having withdrawn since +1870 from Grand Bassam and Assini' (Winwood Reade). This is obsolete in +1882. The limits of Ashanti-land are immensely exaggerated by this map.] +the westernmost point was in west long. 2ş 55' (G.) Thus our territory +begins between Great Assini and New Town, the latter being included in the +Protectorate. This position would reduce the old Gold Coast from 245 +direct geographical miles of shore-line between the River Assini (W. long. +3ş 23') and the Volta mouth (E. long. 0ş 42') to some 217 or 220 in round +numbers. Inland the limit should be the Tando valley, but it has been +fancifully traced north from the Eyhi lagoon, the receptacle of the Tando, +on a meridian of W. long. 2ş 50' (G.) to a parallel of N. lat. 6ş 30', or +ninety-eight miles from the coast about Axim (N. lat. 4ş 52'). Thence it +bends east and south-east to the Ofim, or western fork of the Bosom Prah, +and ascends the Prah proper, separating Ashanti-land (north) from +Fanti-land (south). + +It should be our object to acquire by purchase or treaty, or both, the +whole territory subject to Grand Bassam and Assini. The reasons may be +gathered from the preceding pages. + +By night we also passed Cape Apollonia and its four hummocks, which are +faintly visible from Axim. The name has nothing to do, I need hardly say, +with Apollo or his feasts, the Apolloniae, nor has it any relationship +with the admirable 'Apollinaris water.' It was given by the Portuguese +from the saint [Footnote: Butler's _Lives_ gives 'S. Apollonia (not +Appolonia, as the miners have it), v.m. February 9.' This admirable old +maid leaped into the fire prepared for her by the heathen populace of +Alexandria when she refused to worship their 'execrable divinity.' There +are also an Apollonius (March 5), 'a zealous holy anchorite' of Egyptian +Antinous; and Apollinaris, who about A.D. 376 began to 'broach his +heresy,' denying in Christ a human soul.] who presided over the day of +discovery. In the early half of the present century the King of Apollonia +ruled the coast from the Assini to the Ancobra Rivers; the English built a +fort by permission at his head-quarters, and carried on a large trade in +gold-dust. Meredith (1800) tells us that, when his Majesty deceased, some +twenty men were sacrificed on every Saturday till the 'great customs' took +place six months afterwards. The underlying idea was, doubtless, that of +Dahome: the potentate must not go, like a 'small boy,' alone and +unattended to the shadowy realm. The 'African Cruiser' [Footnote: _Journal +of an African Cruiser_, by an officer of the U.S. navy. Edited by +Nathaniel Hawthorn. Aberdeen: Clark and Son, 1848.] speaks of the royal +palace being sumptuously furnished in European style; of gold cups, +pitchers, and plates, and of vast treasures in bullion. When the King died +sixty victims were slain and buried with their liege lord; besides a +knife, plate, and cup; swords, guns, cloths, and goods of various kinds. +The corpse, smeared with oil and powdered _cap-a-pie_ with gold-dust, +looked like a statue of the noble ore. + +As the _Senegal_ advanced under easy steam, we had no rolling off this +roller-coast, and we greatly and regretfully enjoyed the glorious Harmatan +weather, so soon about to cease. The mornings and evenings were cool and +dewy, and the pale, round-faced sun seemed to look down upon us through an +honest northern fog. There was no heat even during the afternoons, usually +so close and oppressive in this section of the tropics. I only wished that +those who marvelled at my preferring to the blustering, boisterous weather +of the Northern Adriatic the genial and congenial climate of West Africa +could have passed a day with me. + + + +CHAPTER XV. + +AXIM, THE GOLD PORT OF THE PAST AND THE FUTURE. + +All the traveller's anxiety about the Known and apprehensions of the +Unknown fell from him like a garment as, after passing the hummocks of +Apollonia, his destination, Axim, [Footnote: The port lies in N. lat. 4ş +52' 20" (say 5ş round numbers) and in W. long. (Gr.) 2ş 14' 45": it must +not be confounded, as often occurs in England, with 'Akim,' the region +north of Accra.] peeped up over the port-bow at dawn of the 25th of +January. + +The first aspect of Axim is charming; there is nothing more picturesque +upon this coast. + +After the gape of the Ancobra River the foreshore gradually bends for a +few miles from a west-east to a north-south rhumb, and forms a bay within +a bay. The larger is bounded north by Akromasi Point, the southern wall of +the great stream; the bold foreland outlain with reefs and a rock like a +headless sphinx, is known from afar, east and west, by its 'one tree,' a +palm apparently double, the leader of a straggling row. On the south of +the greater bay is Point Pepre, by the natives called Inkubun, or +Cocoanut-Tree, from a neighbouring village; like the Akromasi foreland, it +is black and menacing with its long projection of greenstone reefs, whose +heads are hardly to be distinguished from the flotilla of fishing canoes. +The lesser bay, that of Axim proper, has for limits Pepre and the Bosomato +promontory, a bulky tongue on whose summit is a thatched cottage. + +The background of either bay is a noble forest, a wall of green, the items +being often 150 feet high, with branchless white boles of eighty, +perpendicularly striping the verdure. The regular sky-line--broken by tall +knolls and clumps, whose limits are rivulet-courses and bosky dells; +thrown up by refraction; flecked with shreds of heavy mist + + That like a broken purpose waste in air; + +and dappled with hanging mists, white as snow, and 'sun-clouds,' as the +natives term the cottony nimbus--is easily mistaken, in the dim light of +dawn, for a line of towering cliffs. + +The sea at this hour is smooth as oil, except where ruffled by +fish-shoals, and shows comparatively free, today at least, from the long +Atlantic roll which lashes the flat coast east of Apollonia. Its selvage +is fretted by green points, golden sands, and a red cove not unlike the +crater-port of Clarence, Fernando Po. The surface is broken by two islets, +apparently the terminal knobs of many reefs which project westward from +the land. To the north rises Asiniba ('Son of Asini'), a pyramid of rock +below and tree-growth above. Fronting the landing-place is Bobowusua, +[Footnote: The Hyd. Chart calls them Suaba and Bobowassi; it might be a +trifle more curious in the matter of significant words.] or Fetish Island, +a double feature which we shall presently inspect. The foreshore is barred +and dotted perpendicularly by black reefs and scattered _diabolitos_, or +detached hard-heads, which break the surges. At spring-tides, when rise +and fall reach at least ten feet, and fourteen in the equinoctial ebb and +flow, it appears a gridiron of grim black stone. [Footnote: Not as the +Hyd. Chart says--'rise and fall at springs six or seven feet.'] + +The settlement, backed by its grand 'bush' and faced by the sea, consists +of a castle and a subject town; it wears, in fact, a baronial and +old-world look. Fort Santo Antonio, a tall white house upon a bastioned +terrace, crowns proudly enough a knob of black rock and low green growth. +On both sides of it, north and south, stretches the town; from this +distance it appears a straggle of brown thatched huts and hovels, +enlivened here and there by some whitewashed establishments, mining or 'in +the mercanteel.' The soil is ruddy and rusty, and we have the usual +African tricolor. + +The agents of the several Aximite houses came on board. We drained the +normal stirrup-cup and embarked in the usual heavy surf-boat, manned by a +dozen leathery-lunged 'Elmina boys' with paddles, and a helmsman with an +oar. There are smaller surf-canoes, that have weather-boards at the bow to +fend off the waves. Our anchorage-place lies at least two miles +south-west-and-by-south of the landing-place. There is absolutely nothing +to prevent steamers running in except a sunken reef, the Pinnacle or +Hoeven Rock. It is well known to every canoeman. Cameron sounded for it, +and a buoy had been laid by fishermen, but so unskilfully that the surge +presently made a clean sweep. Hence a wilful waste of time and work. I +wrote to Messieurs Elder and Dempster, advising them to replace it for +their own interests and for the convenience of travellers; but in Africa +one is out of the world, and receiving answers is emphatically not the +rule. + +There is no better landing-place than Axim upon this part of the African +coast. The surf renders it impracticable only on the few days of the worst +weather. We hugged the north of the Bobowusua rock-islet. When the water +here breaks there is a clear way further north; the southern passage, +paved with rocks and shoals, can be used only when the seas are at their +smoothest. A regular and well-defined channel placed us on the shingly and +sandy beach. We had a succulent breakfast with Messieurs Gillett and Selby +(Lintott and Spink), to whose unceasing kindness and hospitality we +afterwards ran heavily in debt. There we bade adieu to our genial captain +and our jovial fellow-travellers. + +The afternoon was spent in visiting the Axim fort. Santo Antonio, built by +the Portuguese in the glorious days of Dom Manuel (1495-1521), became the +Hollander Saint Anthony by conquest in 1682, and was formally yielded by +treaty to the Dutch West Indian Company. It came to us by convention at +the Hague; and, marked 'ruined' in the chart, it was repaired in 1873 +before the Ashanti war. It can now act harbour of refuge, and is safe from +the whole power of the little black despotism. Bosman [Footnote: _Eerste +Brief_, 1737: the original Dutch edition was lent to me by M. Paulus +Dahse.] shows 'Fort St. Antonio' protected by two landward bastions and an +old doorway opening upon a loopholed courtyard. Barbot (1700) sketches a +brick house in gable-shape, based upon a triangular rock. + +Passing the Swanzy establishment, a model board-house, with masonry posts, +a verandah all round, and a flying roof of corrugated iron, we ascend the +old paved ramp. Here we remark that the castle-gateway of the Dutch, +leading to the outer or slave court, has been replaced by a mean hole in +the wall. The external work was demolished, lest the enemy effect a +lodgement there. We can walk seawards round the green knob scattered with +black boulders, and pick an excellent salad, a kind of African dandelion, +which the carnivorous English miners called 'grass,'--with a big, big D. +Entering the hole in the wall, and passing through a solid arched gateway +and across a small court upon which the prison opens, we ascend the steps +leading to the upper work. This is a large square house, pierced in front +for one door and three windows, and connected by a bridge, formerly a +drawbridge, with the two tall belvideres, once towers guarding the +eastern entrance. The body is occupied by the palaver-hall of the _opper +koopman_ (chief factor), now converted into a court-house and a small +armoury of sniders. It leads to the bedrooms, disposed on three sides. The +materials are trap, quartz, probably gold-bearing, and fine bricks, +evidently home-made. The substantial quarters fronting the sea are breezy, +comfortable, and healthy; and the large cistern contains the only good +drinking-water in Axim. Life must be somewhat dull here, but, after all, +not so bad as in many an out-station of British India. The chief grievance +is that the inmates, the District-commissioner and his medico, are mere +birds of passage; they are ordered off and exchanged, at the will of +head-quarters, often before they can settle down, and always before they +learn to take interest in the place. The works consist of two bastions on +the land side; a large one to the south-east, and a smaller to the +north-east. Seawards projects a rounded cavalier, fronted by dead ground, +or rather water. In the days of the Dutch the platforms carried '22 iron +guns, besides some patteraroes.' Now there are two old bronze guns, two +'chambeis' bearing the mark 'La Hague,' and an ancient iron tube +dismounted: a seven-pounder mountain-gun, of a type now obsolete, lurks in +the shadows of the arched gateway. I afterwards had an opportunity of +seeing the ammunition, and was much struck by a tub of black mud, which +they told me was gunpowder. The Ashantis at least keep theirs dry. + +The dispensary appeared equally well found. For some weeks there was a +native assistant; then Dr. Roulston came, and, after a few days, was +ordered off at a moment's notice to the remotest possible station. He had +no laudanum, no Dover's powders, no chlorodyne, no Warburg; and, when +treating M. Dahse for a burst vein, he was compelled to borrow styptics +from our store. This style of economy is very expensive. To state the case +simply, officials last one year instead of two. + +The late Captain P. D. O'Brien, District-commissioner of Axim, did the +honours, showing us the only 'antiquity' in the place, the tomb of a Dutch +governor, with a rudely cut inscription set in the eastern wall:-- + + WILLEM + SCHOORWAS + COMAD. OP AXEM + 1659. + +Amongst the slave-garrison of twenty-five Hausas I found a Wadai-man, +Sergeant Abba Osman, who had not quite forgotten his Arabic. Several +Moslems also appeared about the town, showing that the flood of El-Islam +is fast setting this way. They might profitably be hired as an armed +escort into the pagan interior. + +Axim, preferably written by the Portuguese 'Axem,' was by them pronounced +Ashim or Ashem: no stress, therefore, must be laid upon its +paper-resemblance with Abyssinian Axum. [Footnote: I allude to _The Guinea +or Gold Coast of Africa, formerly a Colony of the Axumites_ (London, +Pottle and Son, 1880), an interesting pamphlet kindly forwarded to me by +the author, Captain George Peacock. I believe, as he does, that the West +Coast of Africa preserves traces of an ancient connection with the Nile +valley and the eastern regions; but this is not one of them.] Barbot calls +it 'Axim, or Atzyn, or Achen.' The native name is Essim, which, in the +language of the Mfantse or Mfantse-fo (Fanti-race), means 'you told me,' +and in the Apollonian dialect 'you know me.' These fanciful terms are +common, and they allude to some tale or legend which is forgotten in +course of time. The date of its building is utterly unknown. The Fanti +tradition is that their race was driven coastwards, like their kinsmen the +Ashantis, [Footnote: In _Wanderings in West Africa_, (ii. 98) I have given +the popular derivation of Fanti (Fan-didi = herb-eater) and Asyanti +(San-didi = corn-eater). Bowdich wrote 'Ashanti' because he learnt the +word from the Accra-men.] by tribes pressing down upon them from the +north. They must have found the maritime lands occupied, but they have +preserved no notices of their predecessors. The port-town became the +capital of an upper factor, who ruled the whole coast as far as Elmina. It +was almost depopulated, say the old authorities, by long wars with the +more powerful Apollonia; but its commanding position has always enabled it +to recover from the heaviest blows. It is still the threshold of the +western Gold-region, and the principal port of occidental Wasa (Wassaw). + +We may fairly predict a future for Axim. The town is well situated to +catch the sea-breeze. The climate is equatorial, but exceptionally +healthy, save after the rainy season, which here opens a month or six +weeks earlier than on the leeward coast. The downfall must, however, have +diminished since the times when 'the _blacks_ will tell you the wet +weather lasts eleven months and twenty-nine days in the year.' The rains +now begin with April and end in September. The position is south of the +thermal equator (22ş R. = 81 5ş F.), which runs north lat. 6ş on the +western coast, 15ş in the interior, and 10ş on the eastern seaboard. +[Footnote: Berghaus, following Humboldt, places the probable equator of +temperature (80ş 16') in N. lat. 4ş, or south of Axim, rising to N. lat. +13ş in Central and in Eastern Africa] Add that the average daily +temperature is 75ş-80ş (F.), rising to 96ş in the afternoon and falling +after midnight to 70ş, and that the wet season on the seaboard is perhaps +the least sickly. We were there in January-March, during an unusually hot +and dry season, following the Harmatan and the Smokes and preceding the +tornadoes and the rains; yet I never felt an oppressive day,--nothing +worse than Alexandria or Trieste in early August. The mornings and +evenings were mostly misty; the moons were clear and the nights were +tolerable. An excessive damp, which mildews and decays +everything--clothes, books, metals, man--was the main discomfort. But we +were living, as it were, in the open, and we neglected morning and evening +fires. This will not be the case when solid and comfortable houses shall +be built. The improvement of lodging and diet accounts for the better +health of Anglo-Africans, as of Anglo-Indians, in the present day. Our +predecessors during the early nineteenth century died of bad shelter, bad +food, and bad drink. + +The town, built upon a flat partly formed by cutting away the mounds and +hillocks of red clay, was well laid out by Mr. Sam, the +District-commissioner, after its bombardment during the Ashanti war. The +main streets, or rather roads, running north-south, are avenued with +shady Ganian or umbrella figs. I should prefer the bread-tree, which here +flourishes. These thoroughfares are kept clean enough, and nuisances are +punished, as in England. Cross lines, however, are wanted; the crooked +passages between the huts do not admit the sea-breeze. Native hovels, +also, should be removed from the foreshore, which, as Admiralty property, +ought to be kept for public purposes. The native dwellings are composed of +split bamboo-fronds (_Raphia vinifera_), thatched with the foliage of the +same tree. They are mere baskets--airy, and perhaps too airy. Some are +defended against wind and wet by facings of red swish; a few, like that of +the 'king' and chief native traders, are built of adobes (sun-dried +bricks), whitewashed outside. Of this kind, too, are the stores and the +mining establishments; the 'Akankon House,' near the landing-place; the +'Gold Coast House,' in the interior; the Methodist chapel, a barn-shaped +affair; the Effuenta House to the north, and the Takwa, or French House, +to the south. + +'Sanitation,' however, is loudly called for; and if cholera come here it +will do damage. The southern part of the narrow ledge bearing the town, +and including the French establishment, is poisoned by a fetid, stagnant +pool, full of sirens, shrimps, and anthropophagous crabs, which after +heavy rains cuts a way through its sand-bar to the sea. This _marigot_ is +the 'little shallow river Axim,' the Achombene of Barbot, which the people +call Awaminisu ('Ghost's or Deadman's Water'). To the north also there are +two foul nullahs, the Eswa and the Besaon, which make the neighbourhood +pestilential. In days to come the latter will be restored to its old +course east of the town and thrown into the Awaminisu, whose mouth will be +kept open throughout the year. The eastern suburbs, so to call them, want +clearing of offal and all manner of impurities. Beyond the original valley +of the Besaon the ground rises and bears the wall of trees seen from the +offing. There is, therefore, plenty of building-room, and long heads have +bought up all the land in that direction. Mr. Macarthy, of the School of +Mines, owns many concessions in this part of the country. + +All the evils here noted can easily be remedied. As in the Cairo of +Mohammed Ali's day, every house-holder should be made responsible for the +cleanliness of his surroundings. The Castle-prison, too, rarely lodges +fewer than a dozen convicts. These men should be taken away from +'shot-drill' and other absurdities of the tread-mill type, which diversify +pleasant, friar-like lives of eating and drinking, smoking, sleeping, and +chatting with one another. Unfortunately, humanitarianism does not allow +the lash without reference to head-quarters. Labour must therefore be +light; still it would suffice to dig up the boulders from the main +thoroughfares, to clean the suburbs, and to open the mouths of the fetid +and poisonous lagoons. + +Mr. William M. Grant, the clever and active agent of our friend Mr. James +Irvine, came on board to receive us, and housed us and our innumerable +belongings in his little bungalow facing 'Water Street.' We found life at +Axim pleasant enough. Even in these days of comparative barbarism, or at +best of incipient civilisation, the station is not wholly desert. The +agents of the several firms are hospitable in the extreme. Generally also +a manager of the inner mines, or a new comer, enlarges the small circle. +There is a flavour of England in 'A. B. and Co., licensed dealers in wine +and spirits, wholesale and retail,' inscribed upon boards over the +merchants' doors; also in the lawn-tennis, which I have seen played in a +space called by courtesy a square: Cameron, by-the-bye, has hired it, +despite some vexatious local opposition, and it will be a fine _locale_ +for the Axim Hotel now being opened. Sunday is known as a twenty-four +hours of general idleness and revelry: your African Christian is +meticulous upon the subject of 'Sabbath;' he will do as little work as +possible for six days, and scrupulously repose upon the seventh. Whether +he 'keeps it holy' is quite another matter, into which I do not care to +enquire. Service- and school-hours are announced by a manner of +peripatetic belfry--a negroling walking about with a cracked muffin-bell. +From the chapel, which adjoins some wattled huts, the parsonage, surges at +times a prodigious volume of sound, the holloaing of hymns and the +bellowing of anthems; and, between whiles, the sable congregation, ranged +on benches and gazing out of the windows, 'catches it 'ot and strong' from +the dark-faced Wesleyan missionary-schoolmaster. + +We were never wearied of the 'humours' of native Axim. The people are not +Fantis, but Apollonians, somewhat differing in speech with the Oji; both +languages, however, are mutually intelligible. [Footnote: Oji is also +written Otschi, Tschi, Chwee, Twi, Tswi, Otyi, Tyi, or whatever German +ingenuity can suggest. I can hardly explain why the late Keith Johnston +(Africa) calls the linguistic family 'Ewe' (Ewhe, or properly Whegbe), +after a small section of the country, Dahome, Whydah, &c. He was probably +led to it by the publications of the Bale and other German missions.] The +men are the usual curious compound of credulity and distrust, hope and +fatalism, energy and inaction, which make the negro so like the Irish +character. But we must not expect too much from the denizens of African +seaports, mostly fishermen who will act hammock-bearers, a race especially +fond of Bacchus and worshippers of the 'devil Venus.' Perhaps a little too +much license is allowed to them in the matter of noisy and drunken 'native +customs,' palavers, and pow-wows. They rarely go about armed; if you see a +gun you know that the bearer is a huntsman. They are easily commanded, +and, despite their sympathies with Ashanti-land, they are not likely to +play tricks since their town was bombarded. In the villages they are civil +enough, baring the shoulders, like taking off the hat, when they meet +their rulers. Theirs, also, is the great virtue of cleanliness; even when +the mornings are coldest you see them bathing on the beach. They are never +pinched for food, and they have high ideas of diet. 'He lib all same +Prince; he chop cow and sheep ebery day, and fowl and duck he be all same +vegeta'l.' They have poultry in quantities, especially capons, sheep with +negro faces like the Persian, dwarf milch-goats of sturdy build, dark and +dingy pigs, and cattle whose peculiarity it is to be either black or +piebald. The latter are neat animals like the smallest Alderneys, with +short horns, and backs flat as tables. There are almost as many bulls as +there are cows, and they herd together without fighting. Being looked upon +as capital, and an honour to the owner, they are never killed; and, +although the udders of cows and goats are bursting with milk, they are +never milked. + +The women differ very little from their sisters of the Eastern Gold Coast. +You never see beauty beyond the _beaute du diable_ and the naive and +piquant plainness which one admires in a pug-pup. The forms are +unsupported, and the figure falls away at the hips. They retain the savage +fashion of coiffure shown in Cameron's 'Across Africa,' training their +wool to bunches, tufts, and horns. The latter is the favourite; the +pigtails, which stand stiff upright, and are whipped round like pricks of +tobacco, may number half a dozen: one, however, is the common style, and +the size is said to be determined by a delicate consideration. Opposed to +this is the highly civilised _atufu_, 'kankey,' or bussle, whose origin is +disputed. Some say that it prevents the long cloth clinging to the lower +limbs, others that it comes from a modest wish to conceal the forms; some +make it a jockey-saddle for the baby, others a mere exaggeration of +personal development, an attempt to make Aphrodite a Callipyge. I hold +that it arose, in the mysterious hands of 'Fashion,' from the knot which +secures the body-cloth, and which men wear in front or by the side. +Usually this bussle is a mere bundle of cloth; on dress occasions it is a +pad or cushion. I had some trouble to buy the specimen, which Cameron +exhibited in London. + +Men and women are vastly given to 'chaffing' and to nicknaming. Every +child, even in the royal houses, takes a first name after the week-day +[Footnote: + Men. Women. + Adwo (Monday-born) ... Kajo (Cuddjo) ... Adwoa. + Bena (Tuesday-born) ... Kwabina ... Abiena. + Wuku (Wednesday-born) ... Kwako ... Akudea. + Tan (Thursday-born) ... Kwao ... Ya (Yawa). + Afio (Friday-born) ... Kofi (Coffee) ... Afua. + Amu (Saturday-born) ... Kwamina ... Amma. + Ayisi (Sunday-born) ... Kwasi ... Akosua (Akwasiba). + +Monday is the first day of the Oji week. The Sunday-born is corrupted to +'Quashy,' well known in the United States; hence also the 'bitter cup' of +_guassia_-wood. The names of the days are taken from the seven Powers +which rule them. Kwa-Si would be Kwa (=_akoa_, man, slave), and Ayisi (a +man) belonging to Ayisi. Amongst the Accra people the first-born are +called Tete (masc.) and Dede (fem.), the second Tete and Koko, and the +rest take the names of the numerals. So we have Septimus, Decimus, &c.] of +its birth, and strangers after that on which they land. Cameron, who +shaved his hair, was entitled 'Kwabina Echipu'--Tuesday Baldhead. I became +Sasa Kwesi (Fetish Sunday), from a fancied clerical appearance, Sasa being +probably connected with Sasabonsam, 'a huge earth-demon of human shape and +fiery hue.' He derives from _asase_ ('earth'), and _abonsam_, some evil +ghost who has obtained a permanent bad name. Missionaries translate the +latter word 'devil,' and make it signify an evil spirit living in the +upper regions, or our popular heaven, and reigning over Abonsamkru, the +last home of souls, or rather shades of the wicked. Thus _sasabonsam_ +would be equivalent to _Erdgeist_, _Waldteufel_, or _Kobold_, no bad +nickname for a miner. The people have a wealth of legend, and some queer +tale attached to every wild beast and bird. In days to come this folk-lore +will be collected. + +The gorbellied children are the pests of the settlement. At early dawn +they roar because they awake hungry and thirsty; they roar during the day +when washed with cold water, and in the evening they roar because they are +tired and sleepy. They are utterly spoiled. They fight like little +Britons; they punch their mothers at three years of age; and, when strong +enough, they 'square up' to their fathers. + +The first mining business we had to transact was with Kwamina Blay, of +Attabo, Ahin (Ahene) or King of Amrehia, Western Apollonia. He came to +visit us in state on January 28. The vehicle, a long basket, big enough to +lodge a Falstaff, open like a coffin, and lined with red cloth to receive +the royal person and gold-hilted swords, was carried stretcher-fashion by +four sturdy knaves. King Blay is an excellent man, true and 'loyal to the +backbone;' but his Anglo-African garb was, to say the least, peculiar. A +tall cocked hat, with huge red and white plume, contrasted with the dwarf +pigtail bearing a Popo-bead, by way of fetish, at the occiput. His +body-dress was a sky-blue silk, his waist-cloth marigold-yellow, and he +held in hand the usual useless sword of honour, a Wilkinson presented to +him for his courage and conduct in 1873-1874. The Ashanti medal hung from +his neck by a plaited gold chain of native Trichinopoly-work, with a neat +sliding clasp of two cannons and an empty _asumamma_, or talisman-case. +The bracelets were of Popo-beads and thick gold-wire curiously twisted +into wreath-knots. Each finger bore a ring resembling a knuckle-duster, +three mushroom-like projections springing from each oval shield. + +Ahin Blay dismounted with ceremony, and was as ceremoniously received. His +features are those of the Fanti, somewhat darker than usual, and his +expression is kindly and intelligent: though barely fifty-five his head is +frosty and his goatee is snowy. The visit was a state affair, a copy in +small of Ashanti and Dahome. + +On the left, the place of honour, sat the 'King's father,' that is, eldest +uncle on the female side, evidently younger than his nephew: the language +makes scanty difference between the relationships, and here, as in other +parts of Africa, the ruler adopts a paternity. Six elders, _safahins_ and +_panins_, [Footnotes: The 'Opanyini' (plur. of 'Opanyin') are the +town-elders forming the council of the Ahin (king) or Caboceer, each with +his own especial charge. The Safahin (Safohine or Osafohene) is the +captain of war; the Ofotosanfo is the treasurer; the Okyame is spy and +speaker, alias 'King's Mouf;' and the Obofo is the messenger, envoy, or +ambassador. The system much resembles that of the village-republics in +Maratha-land.] sat down, in caps and billycocks; the other fifteen stood +up bareheaded, including the 'King's Stick,' called further south 'King's +Mouf.' This spokesman, like the 'Meu-'minister of Dahome, repeated to his +master our interpreter's words; and his long wand of office was capped +with a silver elephant--King Blay's 'totem,' equivalent to our heraldic +signs. So in Ashanti-land some _caboceers_ cap their huge umbrellas with +the _twidam_, or leopard, the _Etchwee_, or panther, of Bowdich, [Footnote: +_Mission_, &c., p. 230 (orig. fol.). The other two patriarchal families +which preside over the eight younger branches, making a total of twelve +tribes, are the Ekoana (_Quonna_), from _eko_ (a buffalo), and the Essona, +from _esso_ (a bush-cat).] and others are members of the _Intchwa_, or +dog-division. These emblems denote consanguineous descent, and the +brotherhood (_ntwa_) of the 'totems' is uniformly recognised. Our guest's +particular ambition is a large state-umbrella, capped with a silver +elephant carrying in trunk a sword. He presently received one sent, at my +request, by Mr. Irvine. + +Amongst the elders were scattered small boys, relations of the headmen. +They were all eyes and ears, and in Fanti-land they are formally trained +to make the best of spies. When you see a lad lounging about or quietly +dozing within ear-shot you know at once his mission. + +The notable parts of the suite were the swordbearers and the band. The +former carried five _afoa_, peculiar weapons, emblems of royalty. The +blades are licked when swearing; they are despatched with messengers as a +hint to enforce obedience; and they are held, after a fashion, to be holy. +I have never seen more conventional, distorted, and useless weapons. Three +blades showed the usual chopping-bill shape, pierced, like fish-slicers, +with round, semicircular, and angular holes. One, measuring twenty-three +inches and three-quarters, was leaf-formed, dotted with a lozenge-pattern +and set with copper studs. Another was partially saw-toothed. All were of +iron, rusty with the rust of years and hardly sharp enough to cut a pat of +butter. The impossible handles were worthy of the blades, bulging grips +between two huge balls utterly unfitted for handling; four were covered +with thin gold-plate in _repousse_ work, and one with silver. The metal +was sewn together with thin wire, and the joints had been hammered to hide +them. Cameron sketched them for my coming 'Book of the Sword;' and Ahin +Blay kept his promise by sending me a specimen of the weapon with two +divergent blades used to cut off noses and ears. Bowdich [Footnote: +_Mission_, &c., p. 312] mentions finely-worked double blades springing +parallel from a single handle; here nothing was known about them. + +The band consisted of two horns and three drums. Of the latter one was +sheathed in leopard-skin and rubbed, not struck, with two curved sticks. A +second was hourglass-shaped; the sticks were bent to right angles, and the +drummer carried, by way of cymbal, a small round iron plate adjusted to +the fingers with little rings loosely set in the edge. The horns were +scrivelloes, elephant-tusks of small size. At times a horrid braying +denoted the royal titles, and after every blast the liege lord responded +mechanically, 'Kwamina Blay! atinasu marrah' (Monday Blay! here am I). + +Interviews with African 'kings' consist mainly of compliments, 'dashes' +(presents or heave-offerings), and what is popularly called 'liquoring +up.' Gifts are a sign of affection; hence the proverb, 'If anyone loves +you he will beg of you.' Money, however, is considered pay; curiosities +are presents, and drink is 'dash.' The 'drinkitite' these men develope is +surprising; they swallow almost without interval beer and claret, +champagne and shandigaff, cognac, whisky, and _liqueurs_. Trade-gin, +[Footnote: This article is made at Hamburg by many houses; the best brand +is held to be that of Van Heyten, and the natives are particular about it. +The prime cost of a dozen-case, each bottle containing about a quart, +fitted with wooden divisions and packed with husks, chaff, or sawdust, is +3_s_. 6_d_.; in retail it is sold for 6_s_., or 6_d_. per bottle. Strange +to say, it has the flavour of good hollands. The latter, however, in small +bottles is always to be bought on the Gold Coast, and can be drunk with +safety.] being despised, is turned over to the followers. Before entering +upon this time-wasting process I persuaded the Ahin and _panins_ to sign +the document enabling me formally to take possession of the 'Izrah Mine.' +The paper was duly attested and witnessed; and the visit ended with a +royal 'progress' to the fort, where the District-commissioner did the rest +of the needful. + +Next day the King made a friendly call without basket or band. His cocked +hat was exchanged for a chimney-pot so 'shocking bad' that no coster would +dare to don it. Such is the custom of the chiefs, and if you give them a +good tile it goes at once into store. He made us promise a return-visit +and set out to collect bearers. + +Hereabouts a week is as a day. Whilst carriage was collecting we inspected +the neighbourhood of Axim. Our first visit was to Bobowusua island, a +'fetish place for palavers,' where the natives object to guns being fired. +Here it was that Admiral van Ruyter built his battery of twelve cannons +and forced Fort Santo Antonio to surrender on January 19, 1642. The rock +is of trap, greenstone, or whinstone, which miners call iron-stone and +Cornishmen 'blue elvan:' this diorite, composed of felspar and the hardest +hornblende, contains granular iron and pyrites like silver. Some specimens +are beautifully banded in onyx-fashion and revetted with 'spar' (quartz) +of many colours, dead-white and crystalline, red and yellow. We find the +same trap on the mainland. Near the smaller Akinim or Salt-pond village +there is a mass threaded with quartz-veins from north to south (1ş 30'), +bossed by granite dykes [Footnote: It is generally believed that these +granite injections have been cooled and consolidated deep below earth's +surface.] trending east-west (96ş 50'), and traversed by a burnt vein +striking 67ş. From the surf-boat we remarked that there were no sharks; +apparently they shun coming within the reefs. Our landing was not pleasant +for the Krumen; the shallow bottom was strewed with rounded pebbles, and +the latter are studded with sharp limpets and corallines. We climbed round +the seaward bluff, fissured with deep narrow clefts, up which the +tide-waves race and roar. Here the trap has a ruddy hue, the salt water +bringing out the iron. Corallines, now several feet above water, clothed +the boulders. This, corroborated by a host of other phenomena, argues a +secular upheaval of the island, and we find the same on the mainland. +There were fragments of grey granite, but not _in situ_; all had been +washed from the continent, where it outlies all other formations. +Water-rolled bits of brickstone also appeared; and hence, probably, Dr. +Oscar Lenz [Footnote: _Geolog. Karte von West-Africa_. Gotha, Justus +Perthes, 1882.] makes Axim and the neighbourhood consist of _rother +Sandstein_ upon laterite. + +Bobowusua is a cabinet of natural history. The northern flank is ever wet +with dew and spray; the southern shows a little dry earth and sand. The +latter in this and in other parts of the islet is a medley of comminuted +shells. We collected cowries of four kinds, large and small, crabs and +balani, lobsters and sea-urchins (_erinacei_) with short spines; +diminutive rock-oysters and a large variety with iridescent +mother-o'-pearl, pink, red and yellow. The latter yields a white +seed-pearl, and here, perhaps, we might attempt to develope it into + + That great round glory of pellucid stuff, + A fish secreted round a grain of grit. + +A single snake-slough and an eight-ribbed turtle were found. The short, +sandy neck of the eastern knob is a playground for 'parson-crows' and +scavengers (turkey-buzzards); hawks, kites, and fish-eagles, white and +black, while the adjacent reefs are frequented by gulls, terns, and small +cranes. + +Above the rock-line is a selvage of low vegetation--ipom[oe]a, white and +mauve-flowered; rushes and tangle-grass, a variety of salsolaceae, and the +cyperus, whose stalk is used like the _kalam_, or reed-pen, further east. +These growths are filmed with spiders' webs, whose central shafts lead to +their nests. The highest levels, only a few feet above water, are grown +with a dense bush that wants the matchet. Here are remains of plantations, +a little knot of bananas, a single tall cocoanut, many young palms, and a +few felled trunks overgrown with oysters. Europeans have proposed to build +bungalows on Bobowusua, where they find fresh sea-air, and a little +shooting among the red-breasted ring-doves, rails, and green pigeons +affecting the vegetation. It appears to us a good place for mooring hulks. +The steamers could then run alongside of them and discharge cargo for the +coming tramway, while surf-boats carrying two or three tons could load for +the Ancobra River. + +The eastern or inner continuation of Bobowusua is Poke islet, a similar +but smaller block. During spring-tides they are linked together and to the +shore by reefs that stand up high and dry. Poke is the rock where, +according to Barbot, 'the negroes put their wives and children when they +go to war.' The tradition is that the Dutch mined it for silver. The metal +is known to exist in several places on and behind the coast, at Bosumato, +upon the Ancobra River south of 'Akankon,' and even at Kumasi. Besides, +gold has not yet been found here unalloyed with silver. + +I was fortunate in collecting from this part of Africa stone-implements +before unknown to Europe. My lamented friend Winwood Reade, [Footnote: +_The Story of the Ashantee Campaign_ (pp. 2-4 and 314). London, Smith and +Elder, 1874.] one of those + + Peculiar people whom death _has_ made dear, + +was the first to bring them home from the eastern regions, Akwapim +(Aquapim), Prahsu, and the Volta River. Arrived at Axim, I nailed to the +walls of our sitting-room a rough print showing the faces and profiles of +worked stones. The result was a fair supply from the coast both up and +down till I had secured thirteen. [Footnote: I read a paper upon these +stone-implements (July 11, 1882) before the Anthropological Society at the +house of my friend, the President, General A. Pitt-Rivers; and made over +to him my small stock. It will find a home at Oxford, with the rest of his +noble anthropological collection, lately presented to the University.] All +were of the neolithic or ground type; the palaeolithic or chipped was +wholly absent, and so were weapons proper, arrowpiles and spear-points. + +Mr. Carr, the able and intelligent agent of Messieurs Swanzy, brought me +sundry pieces and furnished me with the following notes. The 'belemnites' +are picked up at the stream-mouths after freshets; but the people, like +all others, call them 'lightning-stones' (_osraman-bo_) or _abonua_, +simply axe. They suppose the _ceraunius_ to fall with the bolt, to sink +deep in the earth, and to rise to the surface in process of time. The idea +is easily explained. All are comparatively modern, and consequently thinly +covered with earth's upper crust; this is easily washed away by heavy +rains; and, as thunder and lightning accompany the downfalls, the stones +are supposed to be the result. + +The _osraman-bo_ are used in medicine; they 'cool the heart;' and water in +which they are steeped, when given to children, mitigates juvenile +complaints. One of my collections owes its black colour to having been +boiled in palm-oil by way of preserving its virtues; it resembles the +_basanos_ of Lydian Tmolus; but the Gold Coast touchstone is mostly a dark +jasper imported from Europe. The substance of the thunder-stone is the +greenstone-trap everywhere abundant, and taking with age a creamy patina +like the basalt of the Hauran. I heard, however, that at Abusi, beyond +Anamabo (Bird-rock), and other places further east worked stones of a +lightish slaty hue are common. About New Town and Assini these implements +become very plentiful. Mr. S. Cheetham informs me that the thinner +hatchets, somewhat finger-shaped, are copied in iron by the peoples of the +Benin River. These expert smiths buy poor European metal and, like other +West Africans, turn out a first-rate tool. + +Axim seems to have been a great centre of stone-manufacture. Mr. Carr +showed us a dozen huge boulders of greenstone, chiefly at the eastern +angle of the wart that bears, in dangerous proximity to his stores, his +powder-magazine. The upper surfaces are scored and striped with +leaf-shaped grooves, formed like old Greek swords; some of them are three +feet long by three inches wide and three deep. I made a sketch of the +place; Cameron photographed it, and on return carried off a huge slice of +the block, which is now in the British Museum. We afterwards found these +striated stones on the sea-ward face of St. Anthony Fort, in northern +Axim, and on other parts of the seaboard. + +Axim, the gate of this El Dorado, has not yet much reason to thank England +for ruling her. A mean economy annually hoards from 20,000_l_. to +30,000_l_, [Footnote: In 1878 the revenue was 105,091_l_. and the +expenditure 68,410_l_., and in other years the contrast was even greater. +The omniscient 'Whittaker' tells us that in 1879 the figures stood at +54,908_l_. income versus an outlay of 46,281_l_.; and there was no debt.] +forwarded to the colonial _caisse_, to be wasted upon 'little wars,' and +similar miseries, instead of being spent upon local improvements. The +unwholesome bush (the Dutch 'bosch') or wood, backed by the primaeval +forest, surges up to the very doors. The little plank-bridges are out of +repair, and the merchants will not supply the Government with new boards, +save for ready money; otherwise payment may be delayed for a year. The +highway to head-quarters, Cape Coast Castle, is a yellow thread streaking +the green, a hunter's path trodden in the jungle. For 16_s_. 6_d_. a +private messenger goes to and returns from the capital, a distance of +eighty-two miles, in four or five days. The public post starts on +Wednesdays, halts without reason between Fridays and Mondays at Sekondi +(Seecondee), and consumes a week in the down-march. I have already noted +the want of sanitation, the condition of the ammunition, and the absence +of medical stores. It moves one's sense of the absurd to compare the +desolate condition of the Goldland, which is to supply the money, with the +civilised machinery in England which is to work it, companies and +syndicates, shares, debentures, and what not. + +I have treated the subject of Axim with a minuteness that is almost +'porochial;' its future importance must be my excuse. The next chapter +will show that we are truly in the Land of Gold, in an Old New California. + +And now to conclude this unpleasant account with the good words of old +Barbot: 'Axim, in my opinion, is the most tempting of any on the coast of +_Guinea_, taking one thing with another. You have there a perpetual +greenness, which affords a comfortable shade against the scorching heat of +the sun, under the lofty palm and other trees, planted about the village, +with a sweet harmony of many birds of several sorts perching on them. The +walk on the low flat strand along the seaside is no less pleasant at +certain hours of the day; and from the platform of the fort is a most +delightful prospect of the ocean and the many rocks and small islands +about it.' + + + +CHAPTER XVI. + +GOLD ABOUT AXIM, ESPECIALLY AT THE APATIM OR BUJIA CONCESSION. + +Any one who has eyes to see can assure himself that Axim is the threshold +of the Gold-region. It abounds in diorite, a rock usually associated with +the best paying lodes. After heavy showers the naked eye can note spangles +of the precious metal in the street-roads. You can pan it out of the +wall-swish. The little stream-beds, bone-dry throughout the hot season, +roll down, during the rains, a quantity of dark arenaceous matter, like +that of Taranaki, New Zealand, and the 'black sand' of Australia, which +collects near the sea in stripes and patches. The people believe that +without it gold never occurs; and, if they collect the common yellow sand, +it is to extract from it the darker material. If the stuff does not answer +the magnet, it is probably schorl (tourmaline), hornblende, or dark +quartz. Strangers have often mistaken this emery-like rock for tin, which +occurs abundantly in the northern region. It is simply titaniferous iron, +iserine, pleonaste, ilmenite [Footnote: Or peroxide of iron, with 8 to 23 +per cent, of blue oxide of titanium.] and degraded itabirite, the iron and +quartz formation so called in the Brazil; and it is the same mineral which +I found so general throughout the gold and silver fields of neglected +Midian. It is found striating white sandstone about Takwa and other places +in the interior. The surface-stone is decomposed by the oxide of iron, and +thus the precious dust with its ingrained gold is dissolved and separated +from it. At a greater depth the itabirite will be found solid; and the +occurrence of these oldest crystalline formations in large layers is a +hopeful sign. When Colonel Bolton was interested in the Gold Coast +diggings I advised him to send for a few tons of this metal, and to test +it as 'pay-dirt.' A barrelful was forwarded from the coast to the Akankon +Company: it was probably thrown away without experiment. + +At Axim, as at Cape Coast Castle and other parts of the shore, women may +be seen gold-gathering even on the sea-sands. They rarely wash more than +40 lbs., or a maximum of 50 lbs., per diem; and they strike work if they +do not make daily half a dollar (2_s_. 3_d_.) to two dollars. They have +nests of wooden platters for pans, the oldest and rudest of all mechanical +appliances. The largest, two feet in diameter, are used for rough work in +the usual way with a peculiar turn of the wrist. The smallest are stained +black inside, to show the colour of gold; and the finer washings are +carried home to be worked at leisure during the night. This is peculiarly +women's work, and some are well known to be better panners than others; +they refuse to use salt-water, because, they say, it will not draw out the +gold. + +The whole land is impregnated with the precious metal. I find it richer in +sedimentary gold than California was in 1859. Immediately behind the main +square of Axim a bank of red clay leads eastward to a shallow depression, +the old valley of the Besaon, a swamp during the rains backed by rising +and forested ground to the east. On the inland versant a narrow native +shaft has been sunk for gold by Mr. Sam, now native agent under Mr. +Crocker. We pounded and panned the rock, which yielded about twopence per +2 lbs., or one ounce to the ton. Observing its strike, we concluded that +it must extend through Mr. Irvine's property. Throughout the Gold Coast +auriferous reefs ran north-south, with easting rather than westing; the +deviation varies from 5ş west to 15ş-22ş east; and I have heard of, but +not seen, a strike of north-east (45ş) to south-west. This confirms the +'meridional hypothesis' of Professor Sedgwick, who stated, 'As some of the +great physical agencies of the earth are meridional, these agencies may +probably, in a way we do not comprehend, have influenced the deposit of +metals on certain lines of bearing.' We may also observe that all the +great mineral chains of the old and new world are meridional rather than +longitudinal, striking from north-east to south-west. The geologist's +theory, combined with the knowledge that the noble metal is 'chiefly found +among palaeozoic rocks of a quartzose type,' is practically valuable on the +Gold Coast. Every mound or hillock of red clay contains one or more +quartz-reefs, generally outcropping, but sometimes buried in the subsoils. +They can always be struck by a cross-cut trending east-west. The dip is +exceedingly irregular: some lodes are almost vertical, and others +quasi-horizontal. + +We now take the main road leading to the Ancobra. After crossing the fetid +Besaon by its ricketty bridge of planks, we find on the right hand, facing +Messieurs Swanzy's, a fine bit of rising ground, which I shall call, after +its proprietor, 'Mount Irvine.' Over the southern slope runs a cleared +highway, which presently becomes a 'bush-path;' it is named the 'Dudley +Road,' after an energetic District-commissioner. This is the first Takwa +line, whose length is described to be about fifty miles, or four days' +slow journey for laden porters. Mr. Gillett, who had covered twenty-six +(sixteen?) miles of it, describes the path as unbroken by swamps or +streams. Further north, according to the many native guides whom I +questioned, travellers pass two rivulets, and finally they are ferried +over the Abonsa, or Takwa River. The second road follows closely the left +bank of the Ancobra: it is used by the Hausa soldiers, but only in the +heart of the Dries, and it must be impassable during the Rains. Dr. J. +Africanus B. Horton, who contributes to a characteristic paper, [Footnote: +The _African Times_, January 2, 1882. The paper is full of inaccuracies; +it begins by placing Tomento (Tumento) ninety-five miles (for thirty) +along the river-course from the mouth, and he makes steam-launches 'take +from two to four days (say one) to go up to it.'] has never heard of the +former when he says 'from Axim to Taquah (Takwa) there is no direct +route,' and he justly deprecates the latter. But he cries up the Bushua or +Dixcove-Takwa line, upon which he has large concessions. I shall return to +this subject in a future chapter. + +On the north side of Mount Irvine is a second nullah, the Eswa, which +flows, like the Besaon, through the dense growth of bush covering the +eastern uplands. A few minutes' walk along the right bank leads to a +broadening of the bed, a swamp during the Rains and a field of cereals in +the Dries. Thence we plunge into the jungle, and after a couple of hundred +yards come upon signs of mining. In the Eswa bed, where the gulch is +choked by two mounds or hillocks, appear the usual 'women's washings,' +shallow pits like the Brazilian _catas_, whence the pay-dirt has been +extracted. On the right bank, subtending the bed, their husbands have sunk +the usual chimney-hole to scratch quartz from the bounding-wall of the +reef. These rude beginnings of shafts reach a depth of 82 feet, and +perhaps more. All are round, like the circular hut of the African savage; +similarly in Australia the first pits were circular or oval. They are +descended in sweep-fashion by means of foot-holes, and they are just large +enough for a man to sit in and use his diminutive tool. The quartz is sent +up to grass by a basket, and carried to the hut. After a preliminary +roasting, the old custom of Egypt, it is broken into little bits and made +over to the women, who grind it down upon the cankey-stone which serves to +make the daily bread. In some parts of Africa this is men's work, and it +is always done at night, with much jollity and carousing. + +I named this place the 'Axim Reef.' It had been taken by Dr. J. Ogilby +Ross, formerly district medical officer, Axim, and now preparing to +explore the regions behind the Ancobra sources. He allowed, however, his +prospecting term to elapse, and thus it has been secured by Mr. Grant for +Mr. J. Irvine. It taught us three valuable lessons. + +1. Wherever _catas_, or 'women's washings,' are found, we can profitably +apply the hydraulic system of sluicing and fluming not by an upper +reservoir only, but also from below by a force-pump. Water is procurable +at all seasons by means of Norton's Abyssinian tubes, [Footnote: The +Egyptian campaigners seem to have thought of these valuable articles +somewhat late in the day. Yet two years ago I saw one working at +Alexandria.] and the brook-beds, dammed above and below, will form +perennial tanks. I am surprised that English miners on the Gold Coast have +not borrowed this valuable hint to wash from the people who have practised +it since time immemorial. Wherever we read, as on Mr. Wyatt's map, +'Gold-dust found in all these streams;' 'Natives dive for gold in the +dry,' and 'Old gold-shafts all along this track,' we should think of +'hydraulicking.' + +2. The natives, here and elsewhere, prospect for and work the bank-reefs +after the subtending gutter-bed has proved auriferous. There is, however, +no connection between the two, and the precious metal in the subsoil is +either swept down by the floods or washed out of the sides, as we shall +see on the Ancobra River. + +3. The negroes, who ignore pumps and steam-navvies, have neglected the +obvious measure of deep-digging in all the stream-beds, where much +detrital gold and even nuggets will assuredly be found. This should be +done either by shafting or by opening with 'steam-navvies' the whole +course of the channel during the 'Dries.' + +Regaining the main road and passing towards the northern town, which is +separated from southern Axim by the fort and the grassy drill-ground, we +cast a look at a heap of rotting cases at last stored under a kind of +shed. Though labelled 'Akim' by the ungeographical manufacturer, they +contain a board-house, with glass windows and all complete, intended for +Axim, and eventually for the District-commissioner, Takwa. But, with a +futility worthy of the futile African, certain authorities at +Head-quarters, after buying and landing the proposed bungalow, which +probably cost 500_l_., discovered that they could not afford the expense +of sending it to its destination. Consequently it was made over to the +white ants, and it has now duly qualified for fuel. + +At the end of the northern town a noble bombax notes the last +resting-place of Europeans; and on it hangs a tale deserving a place in +'Spiritualistic prints.' A certain M. Thiebaut, transport-manager to the +French Takwa-Company, died at Axim, and was here buried in July 1881. Many +persons, including Mr. Grant's mother and wife, declare that they saw +during broad daylight his 'spirit' standing over his grave. And no wonder +if he walked; a decent 'ghost' would feel unhappy in such a 'yard,' then a +receptacle for native impurities. We represented the case to Mr. Alexander +Allan, who succeeded poor Captain O'Brien, and that active and energetic +'new broom' at once took steps to abate the nuisance. The 'ghost' has not +been seen since its last home has been surrounded by a decent paling and +inscribed 'Ci-git Thiebaut.' The same pious service was then done for one +of our countrymen, Mr. Crawford who died at Axim in the same year. + +Leaving on the left a neat bungalow, the 'Effuenta House,' we see to +seaward of it the wooded knoll Bosomato. [Footnote: Abosom, Obosom or +Bosom, vulg. Bossum, are imaginary beings, guardians and so forth, +worshipped by the people and called 'fetishes' by Europeans. The word +'fetish' is properly applied only to charms, philters, amulets, and all +that genus. See p. 78, _Wit and Wisdom from West Africa_, London, +Tinsleys, 1865.] Here a thatched hut shows where the late M. Bonnat +proposed to build a trading establishment, and to disembark his goods +despite rock and reef. A few yards further the road is crossed by the +Breviya ('where life ends'), another foul lagoon-stream, haunted by sirens +and crossed by a corduroy-bridge. It leads to a village of the same name, +which the Anglo-African calls 'Stink-fish Town,' [Footnote: As usual it is +a translation; the natives call the preserve 'bomom,' from 'bon,' to +stink.] alluding tersely and picturesquely to its sun-dried produce. + +From this knot of huts and hovels we turn sharp to the east, or inland, +and presently enter the Apatim or Bujia concession, which has been leased +for mining purposes to Mr. Irvine. There is a shorter road further north, +but it is barred, we were assured, by a bad swamp. Our path, fairly open, +ran up and down a succession of round-topped, abrupt-flanked hills, thrown +together without system, and showing no signs of a plateau. They are +parted by creek-valleys, gulches, and gullies, thick with tangled +vegetation and varying in depth from a few feet to two and even three +hundred. Many of them carry water even in the driest season. The country +is remarkably like that behind Cape Coast Castle, where the Home +Government, during the last Ashanti war (1873-74), proposed to lay down a +tramway. + +The land is not heavily timbered, but there is wood sufficient for +everyday purposes. Its chief growth is the spiny bombax, whose timber is +hardly durable enough for permanent shafting. Here, however, and in all +the mines upon and near the seaboard, carpenter-work should be imported +from England; it will be at once cheaper and better. The country is +everywhere seamed with reefs and ridges of naked quartz, beginning near +the coast and striking in the right direction. There must be many more +underground, and all will be bared by 'washing' the country. Mr. R. B. N. +Walker, whose energy and enterprise obtained this, as well as other +concessions, tells me that during a second visit one of his company +'picked up two or three small pieces of quartz showing "free gold" among +the refuse around the native pits.' + +We progressed slowly enough, as we delayed to botanise, to net +butterflies, [Footnote: Our large collection all came to grief, because we +had neglected to carry camphor. The hint may be useful to those who follow +us.] and to shoot for specimens. The path crossed and recrossed the Impima +rivulet, which in parts was dammed and double-dammed; its bed of +quartz-gravel and red ironstone again suggested deep digging. After a two +hours' stroll we traversed the snaking course by a rude bridge, and +presently came to the half-way plantation, Impatasi: it is faced by a +dwarf clearing, and we noted a fine clump of bamboo-cane. The next village +was Edu-Kru, marked upon the maps 'Edu.' We then passed over the dry bed +of the Bujia wady, which looked as 'fit' as the Impima; and, at about +twenty-five yards north of the bed we breasted the rough ascent of the +Apatim Hill. + +Here we turned to the right and found Mr. Grant's trial-shaft. It had been +sunk amongst a number of round holes dug by the native miner, and it +appeared to us that they had been working the southern butt-end of the +eastern reef. He had preferred it to another pit sunk a little distance +from the centre by a man named Jones, whose venture yielded the poorest +results. Cameron drew my attention to the necessity of 'hydraulicking' +this hill-side; and from three pounds of its yellow clay, gathered at +random, we washed about fourpence worth of gold-dust, upwards of 8_l_. a +ton. Other specimens assayed 1 oz. 13 dwts. and 13 grains. The quartz at a +little lower than a fathom had yielded poorly, [Footnote: Messieurs +Johnson and Matthey found only 0.650 oz. gold and 0.225 silver.] but +better results were expected from a deeper horizon. + +A few minutes of uphill-walk led us to the little Apatim village, our +objective. We had spent three hours and a half over a distance which would +be easily covered in two. The march may be about two and a half miles +(direct geographical) from Axim, and five along the native path. During +the night my companion took a good observation of Castor and Pollux, and +with the aid of his chronometer laid down the position of the Apatim +village at N. lat. 4ş 55' and W. long. (G.) 2ş 14' 2". Consequently the +nearest point from Central Axim is 2,200 yards, and 200 from the shore. +The north-western angle runs clean across the Ancobra River. [Footnote: +Mr. Walker wrote to me, 'I am inclined to believe that the concession will +be found to extend to the River Ankobra on the west and north-west sides. +But I do not feel certain that this would be of any material advantage, +the distance from Axim by land being so short, and the road between that +port and the property being capable of improvement, so as to render +transport a matter of small expense.'] The concession measures 4,000 +square yards, the centre being an old native shaft a little north of the +Bujia bed. The quadrangle lies between N. lat. 4ş 53' 56" and 4ş 55' 56", +and W. long. (G.) 2ş 12' 48" and 2ş 14' 48". The lease costs 12_l_. per +annum, paid quarterly, and 120_l_. when the works shall open. Its lessor +had forbidden his fraudulent people to prospect or to mine, because, as +usual, they systematically robbed him of his royalty. This universal +practice has made the kings and chiefs throughout the country ready and +even anxious to sell mining-lands for small sums which will be paid +honestly and regularly. They are also fully alive to the prospective +advantages of European staffs settling amongst them. Like them we shall +find the systematic dishonesty and roguery of the natives a considerable +drawback; the fellows know good stone at sight and can easily secrete it. +The cure for this evil will be the importation of labour, especially of +Chinese labourers. + +At Apatim, the name of the district as well as the village, we were +civilly received by the chief, Kwabina Sensense. He is also lessor of the +unfortunate Akankon concession, and his right to sell or to let either of +them has been seriously disputed. This practice, again, may lead, unless +checked, to serious difficulties. When the local government shall have +established a regular department and a staff of Gold-commissioners, every +owner should be compelled legally to prove his title to the land. West +Africans know nothing of yards and fathoms; they have hardly any words to +express north or south. [Footnote: The four points are taken from the +buried body, the feet being to the east and the head lying west.] +Consequently they will sell, either wittingly or in their ignorance of +dimension and direction, the same ground, or parts of it, to two or three +purchasers. Indeed, they would like nothing better, and consequently +'jumpers' must be expected. + +Sensense is a dark man, apparently on the wrong side of fifty. His grizzly +beard, grown comparatively long, his closely-trimmed mustachios, and his +head-cloth, worn like a turban, made me take him at first sight for a +Moslem. He has a cunning eye, which does not belie his reputation. His fad +is to take money and to do no work for it; he now wants us to pay for the +clearing of an uncleared path. The villagers fear him on account of +certain fetish-practices which, in plain English, mean poison; and he +keeps up their awe by everywhere displaying the outward signs of magic and +sorcery. A man with this gift can rise at night when all sleep; cast off +his body like a snake's slough; become a _loup-garou_; shoot flames from +eyes and ears, nose, mouth, and arm-pits; walk with his head on the ground +and kill man either by drinking his blood or by catching his _kra_ +(_umbra_), which he boils and devours. Here the sign of 'fetish' is mostly +the _koro_, or pot full of rubbish. At Axim and Akankon we shall find our +chief a mighty bore, each visit being equivalent to a bottle of gin. + +After a restful sleep in the cool and pleasant air of Apatim, we proceeded +to visit the valley east of the settlement, despite Sensense's warning +that the ground was 'fetish.' He had made the same objection to M. Bonnat, +his evident object being to keep the rich placer for private use or for +further sale. There are evil reports about the origin of the Frenchman's +fatal illness after disregarding this and similar warnings. The deep and +steep-banked depression runs north-south, and is apparently the head of +the Bujia stream. The vegetation, especially near the water, which flows +some 300 feet below the village, was exceedingly dense and tangled, except +where the ground had been cleared for bananas, maize, or ground-nuts. The +bottom, especially at the sharp corners, gave the idea of exceeding +richness; and there were many old works apparently deserted. The +'fetish-pot' stood everywhere, filled with oil, water, and palm-wine, +leaves, cowries, eggs, and all manner of filth. This stuff, stirred by the +_komfo_ diviner, answers questions and enables man to soothsay. It also +corresponds with the _obeah_ of the West Indies, the _ubio_ of the Efik +race, a charm put into the ground to hurt or kill. How hot the rich hole +was! What a perspiration and what a thirst came out of the climb! + +In the evening we walked about half a mile to the south-west of the +village, and prospected the central shaft, whence the measurements were +made. Here it is sunk in a western reef, palpably running parallel with +the eastern, which we first inspected. And this visit gave us a fair idea +of the property. It consists of at least three ridges of clay running from +north to south, and each containing one or more meridional walls of +quartz. Some of the latter may turn out to be 'master lodes.' + +I regret that this fine Apatim concession was not thrown into the market +before the so-called 'Izrah.' The distance from Axim to the mining-ground +is so small that provisions and machinery could be transported for a +trifle. The village lies 220 feet above sea-level; and a hillock in its +rear, perhaps 80 feet higher, commands a noble view, showing Axim Bay: it +could be used as a signal-station. The rise is a fine, healthy position +for the dwellings to be occupied by the European staff, and in such air +white men could work for years. + +Moreover, the short distance from the shore offers peculiar advantages for +'hydraulicking.' Flumes and sluices could carry the golden subsoil to the +sea and discharge it into a series of tanks and cisterns, which would be +cradled for 'pay-dirt.' Finally, it will be easy to baffle the plundering +negro workman by sending all stone containing free gold to be worked in +England, where superior appliances extract more than enough to pay +transport-costs. Indeed, it is a question with me whether, despite great +expenses, reduction at home even of inland produce will not be found +preferable. [Footnote: Mr. C. H. Creswick, of the Gold Coast Mining +Company, kindly drew up for me the following table of expenses from +Abontiyakon (his diggings) to England, and the costs of reducing a ton of +ore. + +_l s. d._ +3 15 0 canoe-transport to the Abonsa River. +1 10 0 Abonsa to Axim by a boat of thirteen hands carrying five tons +0 3 6 landing at Axim and shipping on board steamer. +1 15 0 freight and landing charges at Liverpool. +0 15 0 carriage to reduction-works. +2 12 6 costs of reduction. +---------- +8 11 0 which practically would rise to 9_l_. or 10_l_. + +For local reduction Mr. Creswick calculates the outlay at 2_l_. per ton, +including interest on prime cost of machinery, allowance for wear and +tear, and labour-pay.] This remark applies only to rich ore; the poorer +can be worked upon the spot. + +We returned to Axim with the highest opinion of 'Apatim,' and I rejoiced +to hear that the mine will be opened without delay. + + + +CHAPTER XVII. + +THE RETURN--VISIT TO KING BLAY; ATABO AND BEIN. + +I spare my readers the slightest description of the troubles that attended +our departure from Axim on January 31. Briefly, we began loading at dawn +and the loads were not headed before 10 A.M. + +The black caravan, or rather herd, was mustered by its guide and manager, +the energetic W. M. Grant. His _personnel_ consisted of seven Kruboys from +Cape Palmas and forty-three Axim carriers, who now demand eight and +sixpence for a trip which two years ago cost a dollar. They stray about +the country like goats, often straggling over four miles. As bearers they +are the worst I know, and the Gold Coast hammock is intended only for +beach-travelling. The men are never sized, and they scorn to keep step, +whilst the cross-pieces at either end of the pole rest upon the head and +are ever slipping off it. Hence the jolting, stumbling movement and the +sensation of feeling every play of the porters' muscles, which make the +march one long displeasure. Yet the alternative, walking, means fever for +a new comer. On return we cut long bamboos and palm-fronds and made the +Krumen practise carrying, Hindu-fashion, upon the shoulder. + +The rest of the moving multitude was composed of the servantry and the +camp-followers. One _bouche inutile_ bore a flag, a second carried a gun, +and so forth, the only principle being to work as little as possible and +to plunder all things plunderable. There were exceptions. Joe (Kwasi +Bedeh) of Dixcove, Cameron's old servant, who boasts of being a pagan, and +who speaks English, French, and Dutch, a handy and intelligent young +fellow, who can cook, sew, carpenter, or lead a caravan--in fact, can +serve as factotum--and his accounts, marvellous to recount, are honestly +kept. I should want no better servant in these coast-countries and in +exploring the far interior. The cook, 'Mister Dawson,' of Axim, is a +sturdy senior of missionary presence: having been long employed in that +line, he wears a white tie on Sundays, and I shrewdly suspect him of +preaching. A hard worker, beginning early and ending late, he is an +excellent stuffer of birds and beasts, and the good condition of our +collection is owing entirely to him. His son, Kwasi Yau (Sunday Joe), is a +sharp 'boy' in the Anglo-Indian sense. The carpenter, our model idler, who +won't work and can't work, receives 3_l_. per mens., when $8 should be the +utmost; we cleared him out on return to Axim. Meanwhile he saunters about +under an umbrella, and is always missing when wanted for work. + +Our companions and body-guards are Bianco and Nero, both bought by Cameron +at L'pool for a suspiciously trifling sum. The former is a small +smooth-haired terrier, who dearly loves to bark and bite, and who shows +evident signs of early training in the cab-line. A dog with all the +manners of a doggess, he eventually found a happy home in the fort, Axim. +The second, a bastard Newfoundland with a dash of the bloodhound, and just +emerging from puppyhood, soon told us the reason why he was sold for a +song. That animal was a born murderer; he could not sight a sheep, a goat, +or a bullock without the strongest desire to pull it down; therefore he +had been sold into slavery, African and old-English fashion, instead of +being hanged. He had fine qualities--obedience, fidelity, affection, a +grand voice, and a ferocious presence. All these good gifts, however, were +marred by an over-development of destructiveness. He survived his journeys +by passing many of his hours in the water, and he was at last 'dashed' to +Dr. Roulston, of Takwa. + +We took once more the northern road to Brevia, or 'Stink-fish Town,' and +crossed its tongue of red clay bounded by the bed of the Anjueri stream. +Here again appeared a large block of greenstone deeply grooved by the +grinder. Thence we debouched upon the surf-lashed shore, tripped over by +the sandpiper and the curlew and roped by the bright-flowered convolvulus. +Streaks of the auriferous black sand became more frequent and promising as +we advanced. + +We ran close to Akromasi, or One-tree Point, upon whose flat dorsum linger +the bush-grown ruins of a fort. It was named Elisa Cartago by its +founders, the Portuguese, who were everywhere haunted by memories of the +classics. Bowdich [Footnote: Folio, p. 271.] is eminently in error when he +places the remains 'at the extreme navigable point of the river,' and +opines that the work was built by Governor Ringhaven (Ruyghaver), buried +at Elmina in 1700. He was misinformed by Colonel Starrenberg, a Dutch +officer who canoed three days up the Bosom Prah River, a fact probably +unknown to Commodore Commerell. Bosman [Footnote: Letter I. 1737.] shows +'Elisa Cartago op den Berg Ancober,' crowning the head of Akromasi Point, +with a road leading up to the palisades which protect the trade-houses. +Lieutenant Jeekel, [Footnote: Map of the former Dutch possessions on the +Gold Coast (districts of Apollonia, Azim, Dixcove, Sekondi, Chama, and +El-Mina), by Lieut. C. A. Jeekel, Royal Dutch Navy. Lithographed at the +Topographical Depot of the War Office, Major C. W. Wilson, R.R., Director, +1873. It extends only from the Ebumesu to the Sweet River (Elmina) and up +the Ancobra valley; and it is best known for the seaboard.] an excellent +authority, also places it at the river-mouth. According to some it was +taken in early days by the French, who still hold it. Captain Ellis has +transferred to this site the story of Fort Eguira, an inland, or rather +up-stream, work, destroyed, as Dr. Reynhaut and others tell us, in an +'elendige manier' (a piteous way). + +The gallant Mynheer commanding fought the natives till his men were shot +down, after using 'rock-gold' (nuggets) for bullets. He rolled sundry +powder-barrels under the palaver-hall, and stationed there a boy with a +match to be applied when he stamped on the floor. He then flung open the +gates, hung out a flag of trace, and invited the bloodthirsty savages, who +were bent on killing him by torture, to take the hoard of gold for which +the attack was made. When all crowded the great room he reproached them +with their greed of gain, gave the sign, and blew them and himself into +eternity. I am told by a good authority that the natives, whose memories +are tenacious on some points, will not show to strangers the ruins which +cost their forefathers so dear. + +The last village on the sands is Kukakun, where the wreck of a schooner +saddens the scene. Within a few hundred yards of Akromasi we bent abruptly +eastward and exchanged the sands for the usual stiff soil of red clay. The +gut is formed by the point-bluff and a southern block, and the surface is +covered with dense second-growth--pandanus, the false sugar-cane, ferns +large and small, and the sloth-tree, the Brazilian _uba_ or Preguica, with +tall, thin white trunk and hanging palmated leaves. The African palm-birds +(orioles of the _Merulidae_ family), whose two colours, red (_ntiblii_) and +golden yellow (_enadsi_), apparently divide them into as many fighting +factions, give a touch, a bright colour to the dulness, and chatter over +their pensile homes, which strangers would mistake for cocoa-nuts. + +Severely hustled and horribly shaken up, we ran down the little valley of +the Avin streamlet. It comes from afar, heading, they say, in Abasakasu, a +region where gold abounds. In three-quarters of an hour we had cleared the +four short miles which separate Axim from the Ancobra ferry. This is the +line of a future tramway, which will transport goods from the port to the +river; at present they must be shipped in bar-boats, which cost much and +carry little. The ground divides itself into three sections--the red clay +north of Axim; the sands, whose green-grown upper levels are fitted to +support iron-pot sleepers; and the Avin valley, which debouches upon the +left bank of the Ancobra. The first and the last divisions are safe for +creosoted wood. My friend Mr. Russell Shaw would, I doubt not, take the +contract for 4,000_l_., and a macadamised cart-road could be made for +500_l_. + +This would be the beginning of a much-wanted change. At present the prices +of transport are appalling. The French mines pay from 2_l_. to 2_l_. +10_s_. per ton from England to Axim; from Axim to Takwa, forty miles by +river and thirty by land, costs them 600 francs (24_l_.) per ton. +Moreover, native hands are not always forthcoming. + +The Ancobra River, the main artery and waterway of this region, must not +be written after the Jonesian or modern mode, 'Ankobra' and 'Ankober,' nor +with Bosman 'Rio Cobre' (River of Copper). It has evidently no connection +with Abyssinian Ankober. To the native name, 'Anku' or 'Manku,' the +Portuguese added Cobra, expressing its snaky course. Bowdich, followed by +many moderns, calls it Seenna, for Sanma or Sanuma, meaning 'unless a gale +(of wind).' The legend is that a savage and murderous old king of the +Apollonians, whose capital was Atabo, built a look-out upon a tall +cocoanut-tree, and declared that nothing but a storm could lay it low. +Sanma is still the name of the settlement on the right bank near the +rivermouth. + +We rested at Kumprasi, a few huts close to the _embouchure_ of the +iron-bedded Avin streamlet and backwater. The little zinc-roofed hut, +called by courtesy a store, belonging to Messieurs Swanzy, was closed. +Katubwe, the northern hill on the left bank, had been bought, together +with Akromasi Point and the Avin valley, by the late M. Bonnat, who +cleared it and began shafting it for gold in the usual routine way. During +the last six months it has been overgrown with dense vegetation. Mr. +Walker believes, not unreasonably, that this lode is connected with the +Apatim or Bujia reefs. + +Ferrying across, we could note the wild features of the Ancobra's mouth. +The bar, which in smooth weather allows passage to a load of five tons, +not unfrequently breaks at an offing of four miles, and breaks obliquely. +The gape is garnished on either side by little black stumps of rocks, and +the general effect is very unpleasant. A fine school of sharks fattens on +the fish inside the bar. At this season the entrance narrows to a few +feet, the effect of a huge sandspit on the right lip, and carries only six +feet of water. During the rains it will rise eleven feet at Sanma, and at +Tumento twenty-four feet in a day, falling with the same dangerous +rapidity. We shall see more of the Ancobra, which here separates two +districts. Between it and Cape Threepoints the land is called Avalawe; and +the westward region, extending to Cape Apollonia, is named Amrehia, the +Amregia of Jeekel and Dahse, meaning, 'where people meet.' + +We halted for breakfast at Sanma, where Messieurs Swanzy have another +storehouse, and where the French Company is building one for itself with +characteristic slowness. The settlement is ill-famed for the Chigo or +jigger (_Pulex penetrans_), unknown in my day upon the West African coast. +It has killed men by causing gangrenous sores. From 'Tabon,' [Footnote: +'Tabon' is evidently corrupted from the popular greeting ''Sta bom?' (Are +you well? How d'e do?)] the Brazil, it crept over to Sao Paulo de Loanda, +and thence it spread far and wide up and down coast, and deep into the +interior. This fact suggests that there may be truth in the theory which +makes the common flea of India an immigrant from Europe. + +At 1 P.M. we resumed our way along the beach, under sunshine tempered by +the 'smokes.' These mists, however, are now clearing away for the +tornado-season, and 'insolation' will become more decided. We ran by +sundry little bush-villages: their names will be found in my companion's +careful route-survey. I shall notice only those which showed something +notable. + +There is sameness in the prospect, which, however, does not wholly lack +interest. Soon after dawn the village urchins begin disporting themselves +among the breakers and billows upon broken bits of boat, while their +fathers throw the cast-net nearer shore. The brown-black pigs and piglets +root up the wet sand for shell-fish; and, higher up, the small piebald +cattle loiter in the sun or shade. From afar the negro-groups are not +unpicturesque in their bright red and brimstone yellow sheets, worn like +Roman togas. A nearer view displays bridgeless, patulous noses, suggesting +a figure of [Symbol: Figure-8 on its side.]; cheek-bones like molehills, +and lips splayed out in the manner of speaking-trumpets: often, indeed, +the face is a mere attachment to the devouring-apparatus. Throughout the +day sexes and ages keep apart. The nude boys perch upon stones or worn-out +canoes. Their elders affect the shade, men on one side of the village and +women on the other. All the settlements are backed by cocoa-trees in lines +and clumps. Those who view Africa biliously compare them with hearse-plumes; +I find in them a peculiar individuality and likeness to humankind. There +is the chubby babe, six feet high; the fast-growing 'hobbedehoy;' the +adult, bending away from you like a man, or, woman-like, inclining towards +you; there is the bald, shrunken senior; and, lastly, appears death, lean +and cold and dry. + +Between sea and settlement stand the canoes, flat-bottomed and tip-tilted +like Turkish slippers; where the land is low and floods are high, each is +mounted upon four posts. Fronting and outside the village stands a +wall-less roof of flat matting, the palaver-house. The settlement is +surrounded by a palisade of fronds stripped from the bamboo-palm and +strengthened by posts; the latter put forth green shoots as soon as stuck +in the ground, and recall memories of Robinson Crusoe. The general +entrance has a threshold two to two and a half feet high. The tenements +are simple as birds' nests, primitive as the Highlander's mud-cabin and +shieling of wattle and heather. The outer walls are of bamboo-palm fronds, +the partitions are of bamboo-palm matting, and the roofs are of +bamboo-palm thatch. Each place has its _osafahin_, or headman, and each +headman has his guest-house, built of better material, swish or adobe. + +The only approach to grandeur are the long surges and white combers of the +mournful and misty Atlantic. They roll like the waving prairie-land, curl +their huge heads, and dash down in a fury of foam. 'On the top of a billow +we ride,' with a witness. Here and there black dots peer through the surf, +and to touch them is death. This foul shore presents a formidable barrier +to landing: there absolutely is no safe place between Apollonia and the +Ancobra. European employes avoid tempting the breakers; they disembark and +re-embark for home, and that is all. Mr. Grant assures us that there is no +risk; Mr. Grillett, who has worked the coast since 1875, says the +contrary; no man knows it better or fears it more. Some places are worse +than others; for instance, Inenyapoli is exceptionally dangerous. The sea +is shallow, and ships, requiring eight fathoms, must, to be safe, anchor +four miles out. The coast-soundings in the Admiralty charts are positively +unsafe, and will remain so until revised. On the other hand, the reefs and +rocks of Axim Bay have wholly disappeared, with some exceptions seen off +Kikam and Esyama. + +Looking inland we find the shore mostly subtended by a _marigot_, or +salt-water lagoon, a miniature of those regular rivers which made the +Slave Coast what it was. And along the sea we can detect its presence by +the trickling of little rills guttering and furrowing the sandy surface. +The formation of these characteristic African features, which either run +parallel with or are disposed at various angles to the coast, is +remarkably simple. There is no reason to assume with Lieutenant R. C. Hart +that they result from secular upheaval. [Footnote: Page 186, _Gold Coast +Blue Book_. London, 1881]. The 'powerful artillery with which the ocean +assails the bulwarks of the land' here heaps up a narrow strip of high +sand-bank; and the tails of the smaller streams are powerless to break +through it, except when swollen by the rains. They maintain their level by +receiving fresh water at the head and by percolation through the beach, +while most of them are connected with the sea. + +We halted for rest at the Esyama village; its landmarks are the ronnier, +the glorious palmyra (_Borassus flabelliformis_), here called 'women's +cocoa-tree.' The village looked peculiarly neat with its straight, sandy +street-roads, a quarter of a mile long; and the tenements generally are +better than those of Axim. We noticed the usual feature, a long thatched +barn of yellow clay--school-cum-chapel. The people are fond of planting +before their doors the _felfa_, croton or physicnut (_Jatropha curcas_), +whose oil so long lighted Lisbon. It is a tree of many uses. Boys suck the +honey of the flower-stalk; and adults drink or otherwise use, as +corrective of bile, an infusion of the leaves and the under bark. They +could not give me the receipt for the valuable preparation of the green +apple, well known to the Fantis of Accra. + +After returning to Axim we heard of rich diggings two hours' march inland, +or north with easting from Esyama. They are called 'Yirima,' or +'Choke-full'--that is, of gold. The site is occupied by King Blay's +family, and the place is described as containing three or four reefs which +have all been more or less worked by the natives. After we left the coast +Yirima was visited by Mr. Grant, who reported it as exceptionally +promising. + +About sunset we hit the Ebumesu, or 'Winding Water.' The people declare +that it had a single mouth till the earthquakes of July 1862, which shook +down Accra, raised a divide, and made a double _embouchure_. The eastern +fork, known as the Pana, is the drain of a large and branchy lagoon, +brackish water, bitumen-coloured or brassy-yellow, with poisonous +vegetation, and bounded by mangroves abounding in tannin. These +water-forests grow differently from the red and white rhizophores of +Eastern Africa. We shall again be ferried over the upper part of the +western mouth. Both have bad bars, especially the latter. I therefore can +by no means agree with Mr. Walker's report:--'The western outlet of the +Ebumesu, near the village of Eku Enu, or Ekwanu, is quite practicable for +ordinary surf-boats during the dry season--say half the year--and even in +the middle of June I found the bar smooth and safe. Having for thirty +years worked some of the worst bars and beaches' (the Gaboon? or the +Sherbro?) 'along some hundreds of miles of the West Coast, I am able to +state that the Ebumesu bar might be safely utilised for landing goods and +machinery; but during the heavy surf of the rainy season goods could +always be disembarked at Axim, and, if necessary, carried along the beach +to the mouth of the Ebumesu, and thence by boat to the tramway from that +river to the mine.' This last statement is quite correct. + +All the Aximites described the Ebumesu bars as practically impassable. +Cameron and I agreed that the only way of entering them is by running the +boat ashore, unloading her, and warping her round the point, as we shall +afterwards do at Prince's. But the best line to the Izrah concession has +not yet been discovered. I strongly impressed the necessity of careful +search upon Mr. A. A. Robertson, the traffic-manager of the Company. For +the present I hold the surf along shore and the Ebumesu bar to be equally +dangerous. The land-tongue between the two streams is the favourite haunt +of mosquitoes and sand-flies, and it produces nothing save mud and +mangroves, miasma and malaria. Yet here in 1873-74 loyal and stout-hearted +King Blay defended himself against the whole Apollonian coast, which +actively sympathised with the Ashantis. [Footnote: Captain Brackenbury, +vol. ii, p. 29, _The Ashanti War_, &c., gives an account of King Blay +fighting the Ashantis on the Ebumesu.] He was at last relieved by the +Wasas (Wassaws) coming to his side; and now he has little to fear. He can +put some 5,000 musketeers into the field; and, during the late Ashanti +scare, he offered to aid us with 7,000, if we could supply the extras with +arms and ammunition. + +When the 'Queen of Shades' arose, and it became too dark to see the world, +we halted at the Sensyere village, and found good sleeping-quarters in the +guest-house of the headman, Bato. Fortunately we had brought mattresses. +The standing four-poster of the country offers only cross-planks covered +with the thinnest matting. As the ancient joke of many a lugubrious +African traveller says, it combines bed and board. Next morning, despite +the chilly damp and the 'old-woman-cannot-see,' as the Scotch mist is here +called, our men were ready within reasonable limits. After two hours' +hammock we found ourselves at Atabo, capital of eastern Apollonia, about +to pay our promised return-visit to good King Blay. It is useless to +describe the settlement, which in no way differs from those passed on the +path. The country-people related its origin as follows:--A Fanti man from +the country between Secondee (Sekondi), or Fort Orange, and Shamah +(Chamah), at the mouth of the Bosom Prah, when driven out by war, first +founded 'Kabeku,' near the present place of that name. His sons built +Bein, or Behin, [Footnote: The aspirate is hardly audible. Captain +Brackenbury, generally so careful, manages to confound Bein and Benin.] +meaning a 'strong man,' and Atabo, in Fanti _ataba_, the name of a tree +with a reddish-yellow fruit. The latter was paramount till late years, +when turbulent and unruly Bein was allowed to set up for herself an +independent king; and the sooner things return to the _status quo ante_ +the better for peace. + +King Blay's guest-house of whitewashed swish is a model of its kind. You +pass through a large compound, which contains the outhouses, into a broad, +deep verandah, generally facing away from the sea. It opens upon a central +room adorned with German prints of Scriptural subjects--Mariahilf, for +instance, all gaudy colour and gilt spangles. On each side of this piece +are sleeping-rooms. The furniture of the five is exceedingly simple--a +standing bedstead, a table, and a few wooden chairs. But Ahin Blay is a +civilised man who strews his floors with matting, and has osier +_fauteuils_ from Madeira. These quarters are quite wholesome and +comfortable enough for temporary use. They would be greatly improved by +mounting on pillars or piles; and they might serve for all seasons save +the rainy. + +Mr. Graham, who dispenses elementary knowledge to the missionary pupils, +came to us at once, and kindly offered his aid as 'mouf.' These useful +men, who serve as go-betweens and interpreters, are called 'scholars' by +the people, and are charged with making profit out of whites and blacks. +In the afternoon Mr. Graham brought me two neolithic stone-implements. We +then set out for the 'palace,' a large congeries of houses and huts, +guided by a mighty braying of horns and beating of drums, and by Union +Jacks, with the most grotesque adjuncts of men and beasts, planted in the +clean and sandy street-road. King Blay received us in his palaver-hall, +and his costume now savoured not of Europe, but of 'fetish.' He had been +'making customs,' or worshipping after country-fashion, and would not keep +us waiting while he changed dress. The cap was a kind of tall hood, +adorned with circles of cowries and two horns of the little bush-antelope; +the robe was Moorish, long and large-sleeved, and both were charged with +rolls of red, white, and blue stuff, supposed to contain grigris, or +talismans. The Ashanti medal, however, was still there; indeed, he wore it +round his neck even on the march, when his toilette was reduced to a +waist-cloth and a billycock. After discussing palm-wine in preference to +trade-gin, we persuaded King Blay, despite all his opposition, that 'time +is gold,' and that with strange and indelicate haste we _must_ set out +early on the morrow for the Izrah mine. His main difficulty was about +clearing the path; he had issued strong orders upon the subject, but +African kings often command and no one cares to obey. The monarchy is +essentially limited, and the lieges allow no stretch of power, unless the +ruling arm be exceptionally long and strong. + +Hearing that the gold-hilted official swords of the King of Bein were for +sale, and wishing to inspect the place, we set off at 3.30 P.M. to cover +the 4,769 yards measured along the sands by Mr. Graham. Reaching our +destination, eighteen miles distant from Axim, we were carried up the long +straight street-road which leads to the old English fort. It is the normal +building, a house on bastions, both well and solidly made of stone and +lime. Amongst the materials I found a fine yellow sandstone-grit and a +nummulite so weathered that the shells stood out in strong relief. Both +were new to us on this trap-coast, and no one could say where they were +quarried; many thought they must have come from Europe, others that they +are brought from inland. The masonry of the sea-front was pitted with +seven large wounds, dealt by as many shells when we broke down our own +work. Such was the consequence of sympathising with the Ashantis in 1873, +when Axim also was bombarded. + +What changes these factory-forts have seen, beginning with the days of the +jolly old Hollanders, who, in doublets and trunk-hose, held high state, +commanding large garrisons and ruling the rulers of the land. What +banquets, what carousals, with _sopies_ of the best schiedam, and long +clay-pipes stuffed with the finest tobacco, when an exceptional haul of +gold-dust or captives had come to hand! But Time got the better of them; +the abolition of the export slave-trade cut the ground from under their +feet; diminished profits made economy necessary, and the forts were +allowed to become the shadows of their former selves. Then came the +cession to England, when all appeared running on the road to ruin. Now, +however, things are again changed, and 'Resurgam' may be written upon +these scenes of decay. The Mines will once more make the fortune of the +Gold Coast, and the old buildings will become useful as hospitals, and +store-houses, and barracoons for coolie emigrants. + +The Bein fort has been repaired and whitewashed inside by the lessees, +Messieurs Swanzy, whose agent, Mr. Carr, we found here in possession. +Unlike Axim, it still preserves intact the outer work with its dwarf +belfry over the strong doorway. But the cistern in the middle of this +slave-court must make the cleanly old Netherlanders turn in their tombs. + +Opposite the fort is the normal school-room, occasionally served by Mr. +Graham, of Atabo; Bein has a tide-waiter, but no pedagogue. Beyond it +rises the large and uneven swish-house of the 'King,' who has lately been +summonsed, as a defaulting debtor, to Cape Coast Castle: the single black +policeman who served the writ evidently looked upon us as his colleagues. +The people eyed us with no friendly glances; they were 'making custom' for +the ruler's return. The vague phrase denoted, in this case, a frantic +battering of drums, big and little; a squeaking of scrannel pipes; a +feminine 'break-down' of the most _effrenee_ description, and a general +libation to the Bacchus of Blackland. A debauched and drunken Ashanti, who +executed for our benefit a decapitation-dance, evidently wishing that we +had been its objects, thanked us ironically for a sixpence. We met some +difficulty in seeing the swords, which were _not_ to be sold. They were +the usual rusty and decayed fish-slicers; Cameron, however, was kind +enough to sketch them for me, and they will appear in my coming book. + +Most of the adult males had travelled inland to the Takwa or French mines, +where the Apollonians bear the highest reputation. Whole gangs flock to +the diggings, bringing their own provisions and implements. Thus they have +begun working on tribute and contracting for piece-work. [Footnote: This +information was given to me by M. Plisson, traffic-manager to the +Company.] This is a favourable phase of the labour-question. At the same +time it is clear that the labourer can easily keep the richest specimens +for himself and palm off the worst stuff upon the stranger. + +Here we are next door to the Ivory Coast, and elephants, they say, are +still to be found within two days north of Bein. The hunters cross a broad +stream (the Tando?) and a dry swamp; they then enter an uninhabited +forest; and, after a couple of marches, they reach the animals' haunts. +Small tusks are at times brought in, but no Europeans, so far as I know, +ever killed a tusker in these wilds. My informants heard that a route from +Bein leads to Gyaman, and that it may be travelled without difficulty. + +The following note, by Mr. Edward L. McCarthy, describes an excursion from +Bein to the unvisited Essua-ti, made by him in August 1881:-- + +'Accompanied by Prince John Coffee, heir to King Blay, three other chiefs, +their servants, and my own party of Krumen, we left the town of Bein, +Apollonia, to go up to the village in the bush called Essua-ti. Half a +mile from the town we found canoes awaiting us, and in these we were poled +along for over half an hour over what in the dry season is a native path, +but now a narrow channel of water winding about in a dense jungle of +reeds. Here and there we came upon small hillocks covered with trees, in +which numerous monkeys sported about. Emerging from these reeds, one broad +sheet of water presented itself to the eye, encircled by a low shore +fringed with canes, bush, and palm-trees, and at its western extremity a +range of hills rose out of the background. The lagoon receives several +small streams, and empties itself into the sea by the Ebumesu river, its +mouth being about half-way between Bein and the Ancobra. According to the +natives the river used to be navigable to its mouth, but of late years has +become overgrown with reeds. A few years back they set to work to cut a +channel through them, but getting tired of the work gave it up. The length +of the lagoon appears to be about three to four miles, and about one to +one and a half in breadth. Its major axis runs parallel to the coastline, +or nearly due east and west. Twenty minutes' paddling brought us round the +point of a small headland, where we came in sight of a pretty lake-village +built upon piles, at some little distance from the shore, the whole +forming a most picturesque and animated scene. From house to house canoes +laden with people, plantains, &c., were passing to and fro; groups of +villagers, some standing, others sitting, upon the raised bamboo-platforms +outside their houses, were busy bartering fish for plantains, while the +children played around, apparently unconscious of any danger from falling +into the water. The settlement consisted of over forty houses, mostly of +bamboo, a few of "swish," forming one long irregular line, and three or +four standing away from the rest round a corner of land, after the Fanti +custom. These houses were built on a bamboo-platform supported by piles, +and raised above the water some three and a half feet. One half of the +platform is covered by the house; the other half, left free, is used to +fish from, for the children to play about on, and for receptions when +palavers are held. + +'The distance from the shore varies with the overflow of the lake, at the +time of my visit about thirty to forty yards, though for miles beyond this +the ground was saturated with water, whose depth varied from three and a +half to nine feet. The piles are made of stout sticks; the mode of driving +them in is to lash two canoes abreast by means of two sticks or paddles, +placed transversely, leaving an open space of about two and a half feet +between them. Two men in each canoe, and facing each other, then +vigorously twist and churn about the pole, or rather stick, into the soft +bottom of the lagoon. Some fifteen of these poles are thus driven in and +firmly braced together by cross-pieces, upon which the platform is +constructed, and on this again the house is built. + +'We stopped here to breakfast before ascending the Bousaha River; and, +while so doing, I counted at one time over forty natives sitting round us +on the platform. I was not without my fears that we should all be +precipitated into the water, but the structure, though in appearance frail +and very rude, was far stronger than what it looked. + +'I closely questioned the natives as to why they had built their village +upon the lake, and they invariably gave as their reason that they chiefly +fished at night; and, as the water often overflowed, they would have to +build their houses too far away to be able to come and go during the +night; whereas "now," they said, "we are close to where we catch our fish, +and we often catch them even from our houses." Underneath each house were +tied from one to five, and sometimes more, canoes. These were much +lighter, more rounded off in the keel, stem, and stern, than the +beach-canoes. + +'Three white men, they told me, had visited their village--Captain Dudley +in 1876, judging from the age of a child who was born at the time of his +visit; Captain Grant and Mr. Gillett, in 1878, I afterwards learnt, were +the other two. None of them went further into the interior. + +'After breakfast we crossed the lagoon, passing on our way several canoes +fishing in the middle. The water was very clear and blue, and of +considerable depth, judging from a stone dropped in. Unfortunately I had +no other means of sounding. Not until a dozen yards from the shore were +any signs of a stream discernible. Pushing aside some reeds, we entered a +narrow lane of water, varying from three feet to eighteen feet in width, +deep, and, according to the natives, navigable for three days by canoes. +This stream is known by the name of Bousaha, and the lagoon by Ebumesu. +After two hours' hard paddling in a northerly direction we stopped to walk +to the village of Niba, a large place, principally engaged in raising food +for the coast fishing-villages and Bein, and also in elephant-hunting. + +'Elephants at the time of my visit were reported in large numbers two +days' journey in the bush, and the villagers were then organising a party +for a hunt. Outside the village I came across the skull of a young +elephant, from which I extracted the teeth. The only report of a white man +having been here before was long ago, when, some of the old men told me, +he came from Assini direction, but turned back again. The village was +neatly laid out in streets and was beautifully clean. + +'Another three hours' pull, still bearing northwards, brought us to the +village of Essuati, a smaller place than Niba, but very prettily laid out +with trees, surrounded by seats in its central street. The people here, as +at Niba, were mainly engaged in agriculture. + +'Crowds came to see the "white man," many of the women and children never +having been to Axim, the nearest place where whites are to be found, and, +consequently, had never seen one before. + +'After a few days' stay here I returned to the coast. While there I came +across a curious fish-trap, a description of which may not be +uninteresting. Across a stick planted in the river-bed a light piece of +bamboo was tied, and at its further extremity was suspended a string +carrying fish-hooks. Above these a broad piece of wood, suspended so as to +be half in and half out of the water, acted as a float and spindle. Above +this again were tied four large shells, so that when a fish is hooked the +shells begin to jingle, and the fishermen, hid in the bush, immediately +rush out and secure the fish.' + +[Illustration of fish trap.] + + + +CHAPTER XVIII. + +THE IZRAH MINE--THE IKYOKO CONCESSION--THE RETURN TO AXIM. + +The next day (February 2) showed me my objective, Izrah, after a voyage of +nearly three months. The caravan, now homeward-bound after a fashion, rose +early, and we hammocked in the cool and misty morning along shore to +Inyenapoli--the word means Greater Inyena, as opposed to Inyenachi, the +Less. In the house of Mr. J. Eskine I saw his tradesman bartering cloth +for gold-dust. The weighing apparatus is complicated and curious, and +complete sets of implements are rare; they consist of blowers, sifters, +spoons, native scales, weights of many kinds, and 'fetish gong-gongs,' or +dwarf double bells. + +Gold-dust is the only coin of the realm; and travellers who would pass +north of the Protectorate must buy it on the coast. It is handier than one +would suppose; even a farthing can be paid in it by putting one or two +grains upon a knife-tip, and there is a name, _peseha_ (Port. _peso_?), +for a pennyworth. Larger values go by weight; the _aki_ (_ackie_), +[Footnote: The word _aki_ sounds much like the Arab _roukkah_ or +_roukkiyah_. Its weight, the 16th of an ounce, never varies; but the value +ranges from 4_s_. 6_d_. to 5_s_., according as the ounce is worth 3_l_. +12_s_. to 4_l_. 10_s_., the average being assumed at 4_l_. Other +proportions are:-- + The _toku_ (carat-seed) = 5_d_. + The _benna_ = 2 _akis_. + The _periquen_, _pereguen_, or _peredroano_ = 32 _akis_, or two ounces in +weight; and ranging in value from 9_l_. to 10_l_. (Bowdich, p. 283). The +word is Ashanti, little used by the Fantis. + +For a list of these complicated gold weights, of which Mr. Grant has +promised me a set, see Appendix B, _ A Dictionary of the Asante and Fante +Language_, Rev. Christaller, Basel, 1881.] or sixteenth of an ounce, being +the unit of value. The people may be persuaded to take an English +sovereign, but they spurn a French napoleon. Amongst the many desiderata +of the Coast is a law making all our silver coins legal tenders. At +present the natives will scarcely take anything but threepenny-bits, new +and bright and bearing H.B.M.'s 'counterfeit presentment.' Copper has been +tried, but was made to fail by a clever District-commissioner, who refused +to take the metal in payment of Government dues. The old cowrie-currency, +of which the _tapo_, or score, represented two farthings, is all but +extinct. Its name will be preserved in the proverb, 'There is no market +wherein the dove with the pouting breast (the _cypraea_) has not traded.' +The same is the case with the oldest money, round and perforated +quartz-stones, which suggest the ring-coinage of ancient Egypt. From +Inyenapoli, preceded by King Blay, who so managed that a fair path had +been hastily cut through the bush, we struck inland, the course being +northwards, bending to the north-east and east. The first hour, covering +some three miles, lay partly over a flat plain of grass used for thatch, +pimpled with red anthills and broken by lines and patches of dense jungle. +These savannahs are common near the sea; we had already remarked one +behind Bein. They denote the 'false coast,' and they become during the wet +season almost impassable swamps and mud-fields. + +Then we struck the valley of 'Ebumesu, winding water,' whose approach, +rank with mire and corded with roots, is the Great Dismal Swamp of Dahome +in miniature. Here, seven and a quarter miles from the mouth, the stream +measures about twenty yards broad, the _thalweg_ is deep and navigable, +and the water, bitumen-coloured with vegetable matter, tastes brackish. +There is the usual wasteful profusion of growth. Ferns ramp upon the +trees; Cameron counted at Akankon two dozen different species within a few +hundred yards. Orchids bunch the boughs and boles of dead forest-giants; +and llianas, the African 'tie-tie,' varying in growth from a packthread to +a cable, act as cordage to connect the growths. + +There is evidently a shorter cut up the river, at whose lagoon-mouth craft +can be hired. Our ferryman with his single canoe wasted a good hour over +the work of a few minutes. We then remounted hammock and struck the 'true +coast,' a charming bit of country, gradually upsloping to the north and +east. The path passed through the plantation-villages, Benya and Arabo, +growing bananas and maize, cassava and groundnuts, peppers and papaws, +cocoas and bamboo-palms (_Raphia vinifera_). The latter not only build the +houses, they also yield wine of two kinds, both, however, inferior to the +produce of the oil-palm (_Elais guineensis_). The _adube_, drawn from the +cut spathe, which continues to yield for two or three months, is held to +be wholesome, diuretic, and laxative. The _insefu_ is produced in +mortice-like holes cut along the felled trunk; they fill freely for a +fortnight to three weeks, when fires must be lighted below to make the +juice run into the pots. It is sweeter and better flavoured than the +former, but it is accused of being unwholesome. The people drink palm-wine +at different hours of the day, according to taste. The beverage is mild as +milk in the morning; after noon it becomes heady, and rough as the sourest +cider. The useful palm bears a huge bolster-like roll of fruit, which +should be tried for oil: Cameron brought home a fine specimen for Kew. +Here the land is evidently most fertile, and will form good farms for the +Company. Leaving Arabo, we forded the double stream called the Bila, which +runs a few yards west of the concession. The banks are grown with rice, +showing how easily they will produce all the food necessary for the +labourers. The quality, moreover, is better, and the grain more nutritious +than the Chinese import. The bed of bright sand, supplying the sweetest +water, has in places been worked for gold by the women, but much remains +to be done. + +In another hour, making a total of six miles from Inyenapoli, we reached +our destination, Arabokasu, or 'One Stone for Top.' We lodged our +belongings in the bamboo-house newly built by Mr. Grant, finding it +perfectly fit for temporary use. Before I left Axim Mr. C. C. Robertson +landed there, instructed by the Izrah Company to choose a fair site for a +frame-house mounted on piles. It was presently made in England, but +unfortunately not after the Lagos fashion, with the bed-rooms opening upon +a verandah seven to nine feet broad, and a double roof of wood with +air-space between, instead of thatch and corrugated iron. The house +measures 52 x 32 feet, and contains four bed-rooms, a dining-room, and the +manager's office. A comfortable tenement of the kind costs from 300_l_. to +500_l_., an exceptional article 700_l_. + +We at once set out to cast a first glance upon the Izrah mine. The word is +properly Izia, a stone, also the name of the man who began gold-digging on +the spot. This style of nomenclature is quite 'country-fashion.' +Apparently Izia became Izrah to assume a 'Scriptural' sound; if so, why +not 'go the whole animal' and call it the Isaiah? + +This fine concession is a rectangular parallelogram, whose dimensions are +2,000 yards long from north to south, by a breadth of half. The village +stands outside the south-western angle, and the Fia rivulet runs through +the south-eastern corner. The surface is rolling ground, with a rise and a +depression trending from south-west to north-east. The whole extent, +except where 'bush' lingers, is an old plantation of bananas, manioc, and +ground-nuts. There is an ample supply of good hard timber, but red +pitch-pine or creosoted teak from England would last much longer. Amongst +the trees are especially noted the copal, the gamboge, rich in sticky +juice, the _brovi_, said to be the hardest wood, and the _dum_, or African +mahogany (_Oldfieldia africana_), well known in Ceylon as excellent +material for boat-building. There was an abundance of the Calabar-bean +(_Physostigma venenosum_), once used for an ordeal-poison, and now applied +by surgery in ophthalmic and other complaints. The 'tie-tie,' as +Anglo-Africans call the rope-like creepers, was also plentiful; it may +prove valuable for cordage, and possibly for paper-making. I was pleased +to see the ease with which the heaped-up jungle-growth is burnt at this +season and the facility of road-making. Half a dozen Kru-boys with their +matchets can open, at the rate of some miles a day, a path fit to carry a +'sulky;' and the ground wants only metalling with the stone which lines +every stream. At the same time I hold that here, as in Mexico, we should +begin with railways and tramways. Nor will there be any difficulty in +keeping down the jungle. The soft and silky Bahama-grass has been brought +from Sa Leone to Axim, where it covers the open spaces, and it grows well +at Akankon. There is no trouble except to plant a few roots, which extend +themselves afar; and the carpet when thick allows, like the orange-tree, +no undergrowth. + +The 'Izrah' concession is due to the energy and activity of Mr. R. B. N. +Walker, who has told its history. In March 1881, when he first visited it, +there had been a black 'rush;' the din and clamour of human voices were +audible from afar, and on reaching the mine he found some 300 natives hard +at work. I was told that the greatest number at one time was 2,000. The +account reminds us exactly of the human floods so famous in other parts of +the mining world. The men were sinking pits of unusual size along the +south-eastern slope of the hillock, where the great clearing now is. The +excitement was remarkable; and, negroes not being given to hard and +continuous labour without adequate inducement, the bustle and the uproar, +and the daily increasing numbers of miners flocking from considerable +distances, were evidence sufficient that there was an unusually good +'find.' Their pits, attaining a maximum of 12 feet square by 55 deep, +extended over some 150 yards from NN.E. to SS.W., with a breadth of about +20. From some of these holes rich quartz had been taken, one piece, the +size of a 32-pounder cannon-ball, yielding more than ten ounces of gold. A +shaft, however, soon caved in, for the usual reason: it had been +inadequately timbered and incautiously widened at the bottom to the shape +of a sodawater-bottle. All these works owed a royalty to Ahin Blay; but +his dues were irregularly paid, and consequently he preferred to them a +fixed rental of 100_l_. per annum. + +The following anecdote will show how limited is the power of these +'kings.' He of Apollonia wished to sell this southern patch of ground, +worked by the natives, it being, in fact, the terminal tail of the Izrah +reef and the key of the property. But one Etie, head-man of Kikam, bluntly +refused. Presently this chieflet agreed to sell to Mr. Grant the whole +tract, a length of one thousand fathoms from north to south, the breadth +being left undetermined. But Etie was deep in Messieurs Swanzy's books, +and he wanted ready money. The tempter came in the shape of Mr. Dawson, a +native missionary whom I met a score of years ago at Agbome, and whose +name appears in all narratives of the last Ashanti war. Although an +employe of the Takwa or French mine, he bought for himself, paying +200_l_., the best part of the reef (100 fathoms), leaving the butt-end, of +inferior value, to Mr. Grant. This was a direct breach of contract, and +might be brought into the local law-courts. I advised, however, an +arrangement _a l'aimable_, and I still hope to see it carried out. + +Life at Arabokasu was pleasant enough. The site, rising about 120 feet +above ocean-level, permits the 'Doctor,' alias the sea-breeze, to blow +freshly, and we distinctly heard the sough of the surf. Mornings and +evenings were exceedingly fine, and during the cool nights we found +blankets advisable. These 'small countries' (little villages) are +remarkably clean, and so are the villagers, who, unlike certain +white-skins, bathe at least once a day. At this season we had nothing to +complain of mosquitoes or sand-flies, nor was 'Insektenpulver' wanted +inside the house. The only physiological curiosity in the settlement was a +spotted boy, a regular piebald, like a circus-pony; even his head grew a +triangular patch of white hair. We wanted him for the London Aquarium, but +there were difficulties in the way. Amongst the Apollonians albinoes are +not uncommon; nor are the children put to death, as by the Ashantis. Both +races cut the boss from hunchbacks after decease, and 'make fetish' over +it to free the future family from similar distortion. Our villagers told +us strange tales of a magician near Assini who can decapitate a man and +restore him to life, and who lately had placed a dog's head on a boy's +body. Who can 'doubt the fact'? the boy was there! + +I will now borrow freely from the diary kept during our five days' +inspection of the Izrah diggings. Cameron worked hard at a rough survey of +the ground which Mr. Walker had attempted with considerable success, +seeing that he carried only a pedometer and a small pocket-compass. My +proceedings were necessarily limited, as I had no authority to disburse +money. + +_February 3_.--The night had been somewhat noisy with the hyena-like +screams which startled our soldiers _en route_ to Kumasi. They are said to +proceed from a kind of hyrax (?) about the size of a rabbit; the Krumen +call it a 'bush-dog', and, as will appear, Cameron holds it to be a lemur. +The morning was cool, but not clear, and the country so far like the +'Garden of Eden' that there went up a mist from the earth and watered the +whole face of the ground. But the mist was a Scotch mist, which, in less +humid lands, might easily pass for fine rain; and the drip, drip, drip of +heavy dew-drops from the broad banana-leaves sounded like a sharp shower. +At this hour the birds are wide awake and hungry; a hundred unknown +songsters warble their native wood-notes wild. The bush resounds with the +shriek of the parrot and the cooing of the ringdove, which reminds me of +the Ku-ku-ku (Where, oh, where?) of Umar-i-Khayyam. Its rival is the +_tsil-fui-fui-fui_, or 'hair grown,' meaning that his locks are too long +and there is no one to cut or shave them. Upon the nearest tall tree, +making a spiteful noise to frighten away all specimens, sits the +'watch-bird,' or _apateplu_, so called from his cry; he is wary and +cunning, but we bagged two. The 'clock-bird,' supposed to toll every hour, +has a voice which unites the bark of a dog, the caw of a crow, and the +croak of a frog: he is rarely seen and even cleverer than 'hair grown.' +More familiar sounds are the _roucoulement_ of the pigeon and the tapping +of the woodpecker. The only fourfooted beast we saw was the small +bush-antelope with black robe, of which a specimen was brought home, and +the only accident was the stinging of a Kruboy by a spider more spiteful +than a scorpion. + +Reaching the ground after a ten minutes' walk, we examined the principal +reef as carefully as we could. The strike is nearly north-south, the dip +easterly, and the thickness unknown. The trial-shaft, sunk by Mr. Walker +in the centre of the southern line, was of considerable size, eight by +twelve feet; and the depth measured thirty, of which four held water based +upon clay-mud. The original native shafts to the south are of two kinds, +the indigenous chimney-pit and the parallelogram-shaped well borrowed from +Europeans. The latter varied in dimensions from mere holes to oblongs six +by seven feet; and all the more important were roofed and thatched with +pent-houses of palm-leaf, to keep out the rain. The shaft-timbering, also +a loan from foreigners, consisted of perpendicular bamboo-fronds tied with +bush-rope to a frame of poles cut from small trees; they corresponded with +our sets and laths. There were rude ladders, but useful enough, two +bamboos connected by rungs of 'tie-tie.' The 'sollars' were shaky +platforms of branches, but there was no sign of a winch. + +We set Krumen and porters to clear and lay out the southern boundary, and +to open a path leading direct to the beach. One would fancy that nothing +is easier than to cut bush in a straight line from pole to pole, +especially when these were marked by strips of red calico. Yet the moment +our backs were turned the wrong direction was taken. It pains one's heart +to see the shirking of work, the slipping away into the bush for a sleep, +and the roasting of maize and palm-nuts--'ground-pigs' fare,' they call +the latter--whenever an opportunity occurs. The dawdling walk and the +dragging of one leg after the other, with intervals to stand and scratch, +are a caution. Even the villagers appear incapable of protracted labour +unless it leads immediately to their benefit, and the future never claims +a thought. + +_February 4_.--After the south-eastern corner had been marked with a tall +cross, we opened a path from Arabokasu to the trial-shaft. We threw a +bridge of the felled trunks cumbering the clearing over the Fia rivulet, +and again examined its bed. Gold had been found in it by the women, and +this, as usual, gave rise to the discovery of its subtending reef. The +whole of the little river-valley extending to the sea should be bought and +worked; there is no doubt that it will turn out rich. In the channel we +found an outcrop of slates, both crumbling and compact; this is always a +welcome sign. To the east of the water there is a second quartz-reef, +running parallel with the upper ridge, and apparently untouched by the +pick. + +The next two days were spent in finishing the southern line and in +planting a post at the south-western extremity. Here we found that our +workmen had gone entirely wrong, and we were forced to repeat the work. I +had exposed myself over-freely to the sun, and could do little for the +next week: fortunately my energetic companion was in better condition. + +_February 7_.--Cameron took bearings from the south of the concession, +which he placed, with Mr. Walker, four geographical miles from the sea. +Other informants had exaggerated it to him, and M. Dahse writes six. After +1,000 to 1,200 yards he struck the 'false coast,' crossed a deep and fetid +swamp, and, after a short rise, came upon the miry borders of the Ebumesu. +He canoed 800 yards down-stream without difficulty; and, finding the water +brackish while the ebb-tide ran strong, he considered that this part was +rather a lagoon than a river. The people also assured us that it runs +along the coast, ending near and north of the Bein Fort-village. + +In the evening my companion and Mr. Grant walked to the north-west of the +concession; the place is called by Mr. Walker Izia-bookah (Izia Hill), but +the natives ignore the term. Here, at a distance of 900 yards north and by +west (true) of the Arabokasu village, they found and collected specimens +of a fine reef of hard white quartz. 'Women's washings' were numerous, +showing the proper way to begin working the ground. The right of +prospecting the whole of the section to the N.E. had been secured by Mr. +Walker for Mr. Irvine, and presently the 'Apollonian concession' appeared +in the mining journals. + +We had now done all we could; the circumstances of the case compelled us +to study the geology and topography of the property rather than its +geology and mineralogy. Nothing now remained save to _rebrousser chemin_. +Good King Blay, who had formally made over to me possession of the 'Izrah' +mine, left us for his own village, in order to cure an inflamed foot. He +attributed it to the 'fetish' of some unfriend; but it turned out to be +Guinea-worm, a malady from which many are suffering this season. We parted +upon the most friendly terms and arranged to meet again. + +Both of us came to the conviction that the 'Izrah Concession' will pay, +and pay well. But instead of the routine shafting and tunnelling it must +be treated by hydraulicking and washing away the thirty feet of auriferous +soil, whose depth covers the reef. The bed of the Fia will supply the +water, and a force-pump, worked by men, or preferably by steam-power. Thus +we shall keep the mine dry: otherwise it will be constantly flooded. +Moreover, the land seems to be built for ditching and sluicing, and the +trenches will want only a plank-box with a metal grating at the head. I +can only hope that the operations will be conducted by an expert hand who +knows something of the Californian or the Australian diggings. + +On February 8 we left Arabokasu, intending to march upon the 'Inyoko +Concession.' Our guide and people, however, seemed to change every five +minutes what they might call their 'minds,' and at last they settled to +try the worst, but to us the most interesting line. At 8 A.M. we struck +into the bush _via_ a heap of huts, the 'Matinga' village, at the +south-eastern corner of the fine mineral property. Here 'women's washings' +again appeared. At the Achyako settlement we crossed the two branches of +the Fia. One measures twenty feet wide and two feet six inches deep in the +dry season; it runs a knot an hour, and thus the supply is ample. About a +mile further on we were carried across the Gwabisa stream, four feet wide +by eighteen inches deep, running over a bed of quartz-pebbles. This ended +the 'true coast.' + +The 'false coast' began close to the little settlement known as Ashankru. +It shows a fine quartz-reef, striking north fourteen degrees east. The +formation was shown by the normal savannah and jungle-strips. About noon +we were ferried over the eastern arm of the Ebumesu, known as the Papa. I +have noted scanty belief in the bar of the Ebumesu proper, the western +feature. The eastern entrance, however, perhaps can be used between the +end of December and March, and in calm weather would offer little +difficulty to the surfboats transhipping machinery from the steamers. + +Beginning a little east of the Esyamo village, the Papa lagoon subtends +the coast. We shot over it in the evening, and at night found quarters at +the Ezrimenu village marked Ebu-mesu in old maps. + +This return march of two hours or so had been a mere abomination. The +path, which had not been cleared, led through a tangle of foul and fetid +thicket, upon which the sun darted a sickly, malignant beam. Creepers and +llianas, some of which are spiny and poisonous, barred the thread of path, +which could not be used for hammocks. The several stream-beds, about to +prove so precious, run chocolate-tinted water over vegetable mire, rich, +when stirred, in sulphuretted hydrogen. The only bridges are fallen +trunks. Amongst the minor pests are the _nkran_, or 'driver,' the _ahoho_, +a highly-savoured red ant, and the _hahinni_, a large black formica +terribly graveolent; flies like the tzetze, centipedes, scorpions, and +venomous spiders, which make men 'writhe like cut worms.' There was a +weary uniformity in the closed view, and the sole breaks were an +occasional plantation or a few pauper huts, with auriferous swish, buried +in that eternal green. + + God made the country and man made the town, + +sang the silly sage, who evidently had never seen a region untouched by +the human hand. Finally, this 'Fia route' will probably become the main +line from Axim to the Izrah mine, and the face of the country will be +changed within a year. + +As I was still weak Cameron and Mr. Grant early next morning (Feb. 9) +canoed over the 300 yards or so of the Papa lagoon bounding Ezrimenu +village on the landward side. They then struck nearly due north; and, +after walking three-quarters of an hour, perhaps two miles and a half, +over a good open path, easily convertible into a cart-road, they reached +the Inyoko Concession. It measures 2,400 yards square, beginning at the +central shaft, on the northern side of the hill which gives it a name; and +thus it lies only about eight miles westward of the Ancobra River. The +ground has not been much worked of late years, but formerly Kwako Akka, +the tyrant of Apollonia, 'rich in blood and ore,' who was deposed by the +British Colonial Government about 1850, and was imprisoned in Cape Coast +Castle, is said to have obtained from it much of his wealth. + +They found the strike of the hill approximately north 22ş east (true); +[Footnote: In laying down limits great attention must be paid to +variation. As a rule 19ş 45' west has been assumed from the Admiralty +charts--good news for the London attorney. At Tumento this figure rises to +20ş; upon the coast it must be changed to 19ş 15' (W.), and in other +places to 16ş 40'.] the dip appears to be easterly, and the natives have +worked the _Abbruch_ or _debris_ which have fallen from the reef-crest. +This wall may be a continuation of the Akankon formation; both are rich in +a highly crystalline quartz of livid blue, apparently the best colour +throughout the Gold Region. The surface-ground, of yellowish marl with +quartz-pebbles, is evidently auriferous, and below it lies a harder red +earth rusty with iron. From the southern boundary of the Inyoko +concession, and the village of that name, runs a strong outcrop of a +kindly white quartz, which, when occurring in conjunction with the blue, +usually denotes that both are richer than when a single colour is found. +Such at least is Cameron's experience. + +Mr. Walker, who secured this concession also, notes that the native pits +were very shallow and superficial. He was pressed for time, and sunk his +trial-shaft but little more than three fathoms: here free gold was visible +in the blue quartz, which yielded upwards of one ounce per ton. + +My companion found the shaft still open, and observed that the valley +contained many holes and washing-pits. One was pointed out to him by Mr. +Grant as having yielded twenty ounces of dust in one day: these reports +recall the glories of California and Australia in the olden time. The +little Etubu water, which runs 200 yards from the shaft, would easily form +a reservoir, supplying the means of washing throughout the year. Here, +then, are vast facilities for hydraulic work; millions of cubic feet can +be strained of thin gold at a minimum expenditure. There will be less +'dead work,' and 'getting' would be immediate. Thus, too, as in +California, the land will be prepared for habitation and agriculture, and +the conditions of climate will presently be changed for the better. + +Early in the forenoon (Jan. 9) we hammocked to the Kikam village, and were +much disappointed. King Blay, too lame to leave his home, had sent his +interpreter to show us the Yirima or 'Choke-full' reef; and the man, +doubtless influenced by some intrigue, gave us wrong information. Moreover +the _safahin_ Etie, before mentioned, had gone, they said, to his lands at +Prince's: he was probably lurking in some adjacent hut. We breakfasted in +his house, but all the doors were bolted and locked, and his people would +hardly serve us with drinking water. We attempted in vain to buy the +_boma_, or fetish-drum, a venerable piece of furniture hung round with +human crania, of which only the roofs remained. King Blay, however, +eventually sent us home a _boma_, and it was duly exhibited in town. Kikam +was the only place in Apollonia where we met with churlish treatment; no +hospitality, however, could be expected when the strangers were supposed +to be mixed up in a native quarrel. + +Unwilling to linger any longer in the uninviting and uninteresting spot, +we ordered our hammocks, set out at noon, and, following the line over +which we had travelled, reached Axim at 5 P.M. + +We had no other reason to complain of our week's trip except its +inordinate expense. Apparently one must be the owner of a rich gold-mine +to live in and travel on the Gold Coast. We had already in a fortnight got +through the 50_l_. of silver sent from England; and this, too, without +including the expenses of bed and board. + +We came home with the conviction that the Inyoko property should have been +the second proposed for exploitation, coming immediately after the Apatim. +Our reasons were the peculiar facilities of reaching it and the certainty +that, when work here begins, it will greatly facilitate communication with +'Izrah.' But progress is slow upon the Gold Coast, and our wishes may +still be realised. + +I cannot better conclude this chapter than with an extract from Captain +Brackenbury's 'Narrative of the Ashanti War.' [Footnote: Blackwoods, +Edinburgh and London, 1874. Vol. ii. pp. 351, 352.] It will show how well +that experienced and intelligent officer foresaw in 1873 the future of the +Gold Coast. + +'Are there no means of opening this country up to trade, no means of +infusing into it an element superior to that of the Fanti races, of +holding in check the savagery of the inland tribes, and preventing the +whole coast again becoming abandoned to fetishism and human sacrifices? To +the writer's mind there is but one method, and that one by an appeal to +man's most ignoble passion--the lust of gold. This country is not without +reason called the Gold Coast. Gold is there in profusion, and to be had +for the seeking. We have ourselves seen the women washing the sand at Cape +Coast and finding gold. When Captain Thompson visited the Wassaw (Wasa) +country, he found the roads impassable at night by reason of the gold-pits +upon them. Captain Butler describes western Akim as a country teeming with +gold. Captain Glover has said that in eastern Akim gold is plentiful as +potatoes in Ireland, and the paths were honeycombed with gold-pits. Dawson +has distinctly stated his opinion that the Fanti gold-mines are far more +valuable than those of Ashanti--that the only known Ashanti gold-mine of +great value is that of Manoso; whereas the Wassaw and the Nquamfossoo +mines, as well as the Akim mines, have rock-gold (nuggets) in profusion. +He says that the Ashantis get their gold from the Fantis in exchange for +slaves, whom they buy for two or three loads of coller- (kola-) nuts, +worth less than half an ounce of gold, and sell to the Fantis for as much +as two and a quarter ounces of gold. Let our Government prospect these +mines; let Acts be passed similar to those by which vast railway companies +are empowered to compel persons to sell their land at a fair price; let +our Government, by means of Houssa troops, guarantee protection to +companies formed to work the mines, and let the payment to the kings in +whose country they are be by royalties upon the gold obtained. The kings +would offer the utmost resistance to their mines being thus taken and +worked; but they have never worked them properly themselves, and they will +never work them properly; and it would be no injustice to allow others to +do so. If the true value of these services were ascertained by Government +mining engineers, if the Government would guarantee protection to those +engaged in working them, companies would soon be formed to reap the rich +harvest to be found upon the coast. Chinese coolies would be imported, who +would breed in with the natives and infuse some energy into the Fanti +races. Trade would soon follow, roads be made, and the whole country +opened up. The engagement of our Government should be a limited one, for +if once the gold-mines were at work there would be no further fear that +the country would ever fell back into the hands of the Ashantis.' + +The counsel is good, but we have done better. Private companies have +undertaken the work, and have succeeded where the Government would fail. +So far from resisting, the 'kings' have been too glad to accept our +offers. And now the course is forwards, without costing the country a +farthing, and with a fair prospect of supplying to it a large proportion +of the precious metal still wanted. + +NOTE.--Since these lines were written the _Yiri_ (full) _ma_ (quite) reef +has been leased by Mr. Grant, who sent home specimens showing, I am told, +14 oz. per ton. The fine property belongs to King Blay, who built a +village upon it and there stationed his brother to prevent 'jumping.' In +the spring of 1862 he wished to keep half the ground for his own use. + + + +CHAPTER XIX. + +TO PRINCE'S RIVER AND BACK. + +On February 15 we proceeded down coast to inspect the mining-lands of +Prince's River valley, east of Axim; and this time it was resolved to +travel by surf-boat, ignoring that lazy rogue the hammock-man. Yet even +here difficulties arose. Mast and sail were to be borrowed, and paddles +were to be hired at the rate of a shilling a day each. They are the life +of the fishing Aximites; yet they have not the energy to make them, and +must buy those made in Elmina. + +The eastern coast, like that of Apollonia, is a succession of points and +bays, of cool-looking emerald jungle and of 'Afric's golden sands' reeking +with unkindly heat. Passing the long black tongue of Prepre, or Inkubun, +and the red projection, Ponta Terceira, we sighted the important Ajamera +village, so called from a tree whose young leaves show a tender +pinkish-red. On the Awazan Boppo Hill, about two miles from the +trial-shaft of his concession, Dr. Ross found a native 'Long Tom.' It was +a hollowed palm-trunk rotten with age, closed at one end and open at the +other, with a slant downwards; two forks supported it over a water-filled +hollow, measuring ten feet each way by three deep. Ajamera lies a little +west of the peninsula, _Africanice_ Madrektanah, a jutting mass of naked +granite glazed red by sea-water: on either side of the sandy neck, pinned +down, like Pirate's Bay, by cocoa-nuts, there is the safest landing-place. +And now we sight our port, distant some nine miles from Axim. + +In front rises Prince's Hill, clad in undergrowth with a topping tuft of +tall figs. At its eastern base lies the townlet, showing more whitewash +than usual; and, nearer still, the narrow mouth of the fiery little Yenna, +Prince's or St. John's River. The view is backed by the tall and wooded +ridge of Cape Threepoints, the southernmost headland of the Gold Coast, +behind which is Dixcove. It is interesting to us because a syndicate has +been formed, and engineers are being sent out to survey the pathless +'bush' between the sea and Tumento on the Ancobra, whose site was at the +time unknown. Cameron presently discovered that the Takwa ridge is nearer +Axim than Dixcove is, and that the line would pass within easy distance of +Kinyanko, one of its _raisons d'etre_. + +This wild plan has been supported by sundry concessionists whose interests +lie behind Dixcove and at Kinyanko. Dixcove of the crocodile-worship has +one of the worst bars on the coast. Canoes and surf-boats must run within +biscuit-throw of the Rock Kum-Brenni [Footnote: In the Oji or +Ashanti-Fanti tongue _bro_ or _bronni_ (the Ga 'blofo') means somebody or +something European. It is derived from _abro_ (_blo_), maize, introduced +by white men; others say that when the first strangers landed upon the +coast, the women, who were grinding, said, 'These men are white as +maize-meal.' 'Abrokirri' (Europe) is, however, explained by the Rev. Mr. +Riis as perhaps a corruption of Puto, Porto, Portugal.] ('White Man's +Death'), and the surf will often shut up the landing-place for four or +five successive days. The place will become important, but not in this +way. The Rev. Mr. Milum, in whose pleasant society I voyaged, showed me +his sketch of the station with an isolated red 'butte,' possibly an island +of old, rising close behind the houses and trending north-south. +Grain-gold was found in it by the native schoolmaster, who dug where he +saw a thin smoke or vapour hovering over the ground: throughout the Coast +this, like the presence of certain ferns, is held a sure sign that the +precious ore is present. Moreover, a small nugget appeared in the swish +being prepared for a house-wall. Thus 'washing' will be easy and +inexpensive, and the Wesleyan mission may secure funds for extending +itself into the non-maritime regions. + +We turned the boat's head shorewards, and, after encountering the normal +three seas, ran her upon the beach near the right jaw of Prince's River. +The actual mouth is between natural piers of sea-blackened trap-rock, and +the gullet behind it could at this season be cleared by an English hunter. +We unloaded and warped our conveyance round the gape till she rode safe in +the inner broad. And now we saw that Prince's is not the river of the +hydrographic chart, but a true lagoon-stream, the remains of a much larger +formation. There has been, here and on other parts of the coast, a little +archipelago whose islets directed the riverine courses; the shallows +between were warped up by mangrove and other swampy vegetation, and the +whole has become, after a fashion, _terra firma_. Each holm had doubtless +a core of rock, whose decay produced a rich soil. Now they are mounds and +ridges of red clay standing up abruptly, and their dense growths of dark +yew-like trees contrast with the yellowish produce of the adjacent miry +lowlands. + +The chief of Prince's Town, Eshanchi, _alias_ 'Septimulus,' a name showing +a succession of seven sons, not without a suspicion of twins, would have +accompanied us up stream. Guinea-worm, however, forbade, and he sent a +couple of guides, one of whom, Wafapa, _alias_ 'Barnabas,' a stout, active +freedman of the village, proved very useful. + +We resolved to shoot the banks going, and to collect botanical specimens +on return. The land appears poor in mammals, rich in avifauna, and +exceedingly abundant in insect life. Of larger animals there are leopards, +cat o' mountains and civet-cats, wild hog and fine large deer; we bought a +leg weighing 11-1/2 lbs., and it was excellent eating seasoned with 'poor +man's quinine,' _alias_ garlic. Natives and strangers speak of the +jungle-cow, probably the Nyare antelope (_Bos brachyceros_) of the Gaboon +regions, the _empacasso_ of the Portuguese. Two small black squirrels, +scampering about a white-boled tree, were cunning enough never to give a +shot. We sighted only small monkeys with white beards and ruddy coats. 'He +be too clever for we,' said the Kruboys when the wary mannikins hid in the +bush. I saw nothing of the _kontromfi_, cynocephalus or dog-faced baboon, +concerning whose ferocity this part of Africa is full of stories. Further +north there is a still larger anthropoid, which the natives call a wild +man and Europeans a gorilla. The latter describe its peculiar whoop, heard +in the early night when the sexes call to each other. + +Our results were two species of kingfishers (_alcedo_), the third and +larger kind not showing; a true curlew (_Numenius arquata_), charming +little black swallows (_Wardenia nigrita_), the common English swallow; +a hornbill (_buceros_), all feathers and no flesh; a lean and lanky +diver (_plotus_), some lovely little honeysuckers, a red oriole, a fine +vulture (_Gypohierax angolensis_), and a grand osprey (_hali[oe]tus_), +which even in the agonies of death would not drop his prey. Many other +birds were given over to Mr. Dawson, who worked from dawn till dusk. Mr. +Grant dropped from the trees three snakes, one green and two +slaty-brown. The collection found its way to the British Museum after +the usual extensive plunder, probably at a certain port, where it is +said professional collectors keep customhouse-men in pay. Mr. R. B. +Sharp was kind enough to name the birds, whose shrunken list will be +found at the end of the volume. + +Cameron, observing for his map, was surprised by the windings of the bed; +we seemed ever within hearing of the sea. Where a holm of rock and bush +splits the course its waters swarm with fish, as shown by the weirs and +the baskets, large and small; some of its cat-fish (_siluri_) weigh 10 +lbs. Every shoal bred oysters in profusion, young mangroves sprouted from +the submerged mollusk-beds, and the 'forests of the sea' were peopled with +land-crabs. + +At first the vegetation of the banks was almost wholly of rhizophores, +white and red; the wood of the latter burns like coal, and the bark is +admirable for tanning. In places their long suckers, growing downwards to +the stream, resembled a cordwainer's walk set on end. A bush of +yellow-flowered hibiscus clothes the banks that are less level; and, +higher still, grows a tall and beautiful mimosa with feathery web and +pendent pods of brightest green and yellow. Then came the brabs and palms, +fan-, cocoa-, oil-, and bamboo-, with their trunks turned to nurseries of +epiphytes and air-plants. The parasites are clematis and a host with hard +botanical names. + +Towards evening, as the stream narrowed, the spectacle was imposing. The +avenues and trees stood up like walls, but living walls; and in places +their billowy bulges seemed about to burst upon us like Cape-rollers. +Every contrast was there of light and dark, short and tall, thick and +thin; of age and death with lusty youth clinging around it; of the cocoa's +drooping frond and the aspiring arm of bombax, the silk-cotton-tree, which +rains brown gossamer when the wind blows; of the sloth-tree with its +topping tuft, and the tangled mantle of the calamus or rattan, a palm like +a bamboo-cane. The bristly pod of the dolichos (_pruriens_) hangs by the +side of the leguminosae, from whose flattened, chestnut-coloured seeds +snuff-boxes are made further east. It was also a _floresta florida_, whose +giants are decked with the tender little blossoms of the shrub, and where +the bright bracts and yellow greens of this year's growth light up the +sombre verdure of an older date. The type of this growth is the red +camwood-tree, with its white flower of the sweetest savour. Imagine an +English elm studded with pinks or daisies, gardenias or hyacinths. There +is nothing more picturesque than the shiftings and changes of aspect upon +these African streams, which at first seem so monotonous. After dawn the +smoking water, feeling tepid to the hand and warmer than the atmosphere, +veils the lower levels and makes the forest look as if based on air. Noon +brings out every variety of distance with startling distinctness, and +night, especially moonlit night, blurs with its mists long tracts of +forest, rains silver over the ridges, and leaves the hollows in the +blackest shade. Seen from above, the sea of trees looks like green water +raised to waves by the wind, and the rustling in the breeze mimics the +sound of distant surf. + +A catamaran of four cork-trees, a cranky canoe, the landing-place of a +bush-road, a banana-plantation, and a dwarf clearing, where sat a family +boiling down palm-nuts for oil, proved that here and there the lowland did +not lack lowlanders. The people stared at us without surprise, although +this was only the fourth time they had seen a surf-boat. The river-bed, +grid-ironed with rocky reefs, showed us twenty-two turns in a few miles; +some were horseshoe-bends, sweeping clean round to the south, and one +described a curve of 170ş. After slow and interrupted paddling for an hour +and a half, at 6 P.M., when night neared, we halted at the village of +Esubeyah, or 'Water-made;' [Footnote: The radical of water is 'su,' +curiously corresponding with Turkish and with that oldest of the Turkish +tongues, Chinese.] and my companion made sure of his distances by a +latitudinal observation of Canopus. + +Next morning we had 'English tea' for the first and last time in West +Africa; usually we preferred the Russian form, drunk in a tumbler with a +slice of lime that sinks or of lemon that floats. Mr. Gillett had given us +a bottle of 'Romanshorn' from the Swiss farm, an admirable preparation +which also yields fresh butter. The price is high, 1_s_. 6_d_. a bottle, +or, for the case of forty-eight imperial pints, 72_s_.; this, however, is +the Coast, not the cost figure. For invalids, who are nauseated by the +sickly, over-sugared stuff popularly called 'tin-juice,' and who feel life +put in them by rum and milk, it is an invaluable comfort. + +We left Esubeyah in the 'lizard's sun' at 7 A.M., and found the river +changed for the worse. The freshets had uptorn from the banks the tallest +trees, which in places formed a timber-floor; and the surf-boat gallantly +charged, till she leaked, the huge trunks, over which she had often to be +lifted. Nothing would be easier than to clear away these obstacles; a few +pounds of gun-cotton would remove snags and sawyers, and dredging by boats +would do the rest. Then Prince's River would become an excellent highway. + +An hour and a half's slow paddling placed us at the landing-place of Bekai +(a village in general), the usual hole in the bush. Here navigation ends +in the dry season. We walked to and through the mean little settlement, +and established ourselves at Anima-kru, [Footnote: The English 'croom' is +a corruption of _kru-mu_ or _krum_, 'in the village.' Properly speaking +'kru' and 'man' are the town, or common centre of many _akura_ +(plantation-hamlets), in which the owners keep their families and +_familiae_.] a mile from the landing-place on the Yenna, or Prince's +River. It faces a splendidly wooded mound upon the right or opposite bank. +Mra Kwami, the headman, received us hospitably, cleared a house, and +offered us the usual palm-wine and snuff: the powder, composed of tobacco, +ginger, and cloves, is boxed in a round wild fruit. + +The village contained only two men; the rest were drinking, at Prince's +town, the proceeds of a puncheon of palm-oil. The plantations still showed +fruits and flowers probably left by the Portuguese--wild oranges, mangoes, +limes, pine-apples, and the 'four o'clock,' a kind of 'marvel of Peru,' +supposed to open at that hour. The houses, _crepi_ or parget below and +bamboo above, are mere band-boxes raised from the ground; the smaller +perfectly imitated poultry-crates. All appeared unusually neat and clean, +with ornamental sheets of clam-shells trodden into the earth before the +thresholds. 'Fetish' was abundant, and so was that worst of all plagues +the sand-fly. + +After breakfasting we set out north over a sandy level, clearly reclaimed +from the sea, and in a few minutes struck the true coast. Here begins the +St. John mining-ground, conceded for prospecting to Messieurs Gillett and +Selby. A fair path runs up hillocks of red-yellow clay, metalled with +rounded quartz and ironstone-gravel, roped with roots and barred with +trees; their greatest elevation may have been 120 feet. Two parallel +ridges, trending north-north-east, are bisected by torrents pouring +westward to the river: now dry, they have rolled down huge boulders in +their frequent floods. These 'hard-heads,' which try the hammer, show a +revetment of cellular iron upon a solid core of greenstone and bluish +trap. Some fragments not a little resembled the clay-slates of the +Brazilian gold-mines. Such was the concession which we named Sao Joao do +Principe. + +Presently the chief, Mra Kwami, announced to us that we had reached the +northern boundary-line of the estate. He now would have left us, as it is +not customary, when gold is in question, for one head-man to enter +another's country. We succeeded, however, in persuading him to show us the +other side of the river. A short walk up and down hill led to the ford of +the 'Yenna,' the native name, probably a corruption of 'St. John.' It lies +a little above the dyke where the stream breaks into a dwarf fall, and +below the crossing where a ferry formerly plied. We now found a regular +river, no longer a lagoon-stream; the clear water, most unlike the +matter-suspending and bitumen-coloured fluid of the lower bed, was +beautified by lilies with long leaves and broad flowers of virgin white. + +We rode the Kruboys pick-a-back across the broken reef through which the +stream bursts and brawls, and walked a few paces up the left bank to the +Kumasi [Footnote: The Ashantis translate the word 'under the Kum-tree;' +the Fantis make it mean 'slay all.'] village. It had been lately deserted; +but we found there Kwako Benta, headman of Ajamera, who had spent a week +in forcing the deserters to rejoin the corps. He was the reverse of +cordial, probably wishing at once to prove importance and to give our +guide the cold shoulder: we persuaded him, however, to show us the Muku +concession, granted to Messieurs Lintott and Spink. + +The ground which fronts the reef-ford reflects that of the left bank, and +is pitted with diggings, large and small. In a dry torrent-bed, running +north-south, was an oblong shaft, a native copy of European work, four +feet by six, and timbered in the usual negro way. Its further bank was a +high and steep slope of yellow clay with a midway step, containing another +and a similar shaft: to the north and west were many other signs of +exploitation. The rich-looking quartz of the lode is white and sugary, +with black streaks and veins: its strike is nearly meridional, between +north 20ş and 25ş east, and the dip 40ş-45ş east. A glance shows that +_Fluthwerk_ and 'hydraulicking' would easily wash down the whole alluvial +and auriferous formation to the floor of grey granite which has supplied +the huge 'cankey-stones' [Footnote: This proto-historic implement, also +called a 'saddle-quern,' is here made out of a thick slab of granite +slightly concave and artificially roughened. The muller, or mealing-stone, +is a large, heavy, and oval rolling-pin used with the normal rocking and +grinding motion. These rollers are also used for crushing ore, and +correspond with the stone _polissoirs_ of ancient date.] littering the +village. Cameron, who had before visited the site, and had remarked how +vigorously the placer-gravels had been attacked by the natives, would +'hydraulick' by means of the St. John's River. This might also be done by +damming up and tapping the adjacent bottom. And, if routine work be +wanted, it would cost little to construct upon the topmost crest a large +reservoir with channels to conduct the rains, and thus secure a fair fall +for the water. + +We slept once more at Anima-kru; and here Cameron made sure of his +position by Jupiter and Procyon, and by his valuable watch-chronometer, +the gift of his brother-officers: it worked peculiarly well. The St. +John's mine lies in north lat. 4ş 49' 44", and in west long. (G.) 2ş 6' +44". While the owners would place it seven miles from the sea, it is +distant only 2.2 from 'old Fort Brandenburg.' Early next morning we packed +and prepared for return, the chief Mra Kwami insisting upon escorting us. +And now the difference of travel in Africa and England struck me forcibly. +Fancy a band of negro explorers marching uninvited through the Squire's +manor, strewing his lawn and tennis-ground with all manner of rubbish; +housing their belongings in his dining- and drawing- and best bed-rooms, +which are at once vacated by his wife and family; turning his cook out of +his or her kitchen; calling for the keys of his dairy and poultry-yard, +hot-houses, and cellar; and rummaging the whole mansion for curios and +heirlooms interesting to the negro anthropologist. Fancy also their +bidding him to be ready next morning for sporting and collecting purposes, +with all his pet servants, his steward and his head-gardener, his +stud-groom and his gamekeeper; and allowing, by way of condescension, Mr. +Squire to carry their spears, bows, and arrows; bitterly deriding his +weapons the while, as they proceed to whip his trout-stream, to pluck his +pet plants, to shoot his pheasants, and to kill specimens of his rarest +birds for exhibition in Africa. Fancy their enquiring curiously about his +superstitions, sitting in his pew, asking for bits of his East window, and +criticising his 'fetish' in general, ending with patting him upon the back +and calling him a 'jolly old cock.' Finally, fancy the Squire greatly +enjoying such treatment, and feeling bitterly hurt unless handled after +this fashion. Paddling down stream, we collected for Kew. But the +hopelessness of the task weighs upon the spirits: a square mile of such +flora would take a week. There is a prodigious variety of vegetation, and +the quantity of edible berries, 'fowl's lard,' 'Ashanti-papaw,' and the +Guinea-peach (_Sarcophalus esculentus_) would gladden the heart of a +gorilla. Every larger palm-trunk was a fernery; every dead bole was an +orchidry; and huge fungi, two feet broad, fed upon the remains of their +victims. Climbers, chiefly papilionaceous, and llianas, bigger than the +biggest boa-constrictor, coiled and writhed round the great gloomy trees +which rained their darkness below. In the sunlight were pretty jasmines +(_J. grande_), crotons and lantanas, with marantas, whose broad green +leafage was lined with pink and purple. Deep in shadow lay black miry +sloughs of sickening odour, near which the bed of Father Thames at low +water would be scented with rose-water; and the caverns, formed by the +arching roots of the muddy mangrove, looked haunts fit for crocodile and +behemoth and all manner of unclean, deadly beasts. And there are little +miseries for African collectors. 'Wait-a-bit' thorns tear clothes and +skin. Tree-snakes turn the Kru-boys not pale but the colour of boiled +liver; their 'bowels fail them,' as the natives say. Each tree has its +ant, big or small, black or red; and all sting more or less. We see their +armies marching up the trunks, and the brush of a bough brings down a +little shower. Monstrous mangrove-flies and small brown-coloured 'huri,' +most spiteful biters, and wasps here and there, assail the canoe; and we +are happy if we escape a swarm of the wild bees: their curious, +treacle-like honey is enjoyed by the people. + +We landed in due time at 'Prinsi,' whose civilised chief had laid out a +clean path, lined with umbrella-figs backed by a bush of self-sown guavas. +A good upper-storied house was found for us, with standing bedsteads, +sofa, table, and chairs. It belonged to one of the _penins_, or elders. +The chapel, with its three front and five lateral windows, is the best we +have yet seen. The schoolmaster, Mr. Sego, lives in a house hard by; and +the adjacent school, a wattled cottage, echoes to the voices of some +thirty to forty scholars. The town looks prosperous. Building is easy; +oysters and other shells supply lime; the clay dug to the north makes good +adobes, and stone is easily quarried from the old fort. + +We found Prince's in a state of unusual jollity, drinking the proceeds of +their three puncheons, dancing and playing what Sa Leone calls +'warry.' [Footnote: A game with counters and holes in the ground or a board +hollowed with cups. The same, called _bao_, or tables, is found in East +Africa (Zanzibar) and Cameron traced it extending clear across the Dark +Continent.] The bell and the psalm blended curiously with the song and the +palm-clapping that announces negro terpsichore. Of course 'fetish' was +present, in the shape of a woman peculiarly ornamented. Her very black +face was dazzlingly chalked, lines by threes running from hair-roots to +nose-bridge and meeting others drawn across the temples; the orbits of the +eyes were whitened, and thence triple streaks stretched up the nose and +across the cheeks. Hung to the extensive necklace of beads and other +matters were tassels of dry white fibre; her forearms carried yellow +bunches of similar material, and she held a broom of blackened bamboo and +the metal bell familiar to Unyamwezi. Whilst the juniors danced and sang +the elders drank and gambled. + +After a cool and comfortable night we visited the ruins which Bosman calls +Casteel Groot Frederiksburg tot Pocquesoe (Prince's). Our Hydrographic +Chart has 'old fort Brandenburg,' which is at Cape Threepoints. Others +declare that it was the only good establishment owned by the Elector; and +the best authority, Lieut. Jeekel, terms it G Friedrichsburg (Hollandia). +I may note that 'Prinsi 'Ollandia' is still the native name. These +buildings interest us greatly, because in the coming days of immigration +they will serve for hospitals, stores, and barracoons. Ascending a few +feet of bushy hill, called in books 'Mamfra,' and once evidently an +island, we came upon the eastern flank, three substantial bastions and a +cavalier, with masonry knitted by creepers. We then wound round by the +southern or sea side, and, turning the angle, made the eastern flank. The +gateway, stockade, and belfry shown in Bosman ('Eerste Brief,' 1737) have +disappeared; so also has the slave-court, but the double doorway remains. +The spacious centre, planted with bananas almost wild, would make a grand +garden; the walls are built to stand for ages; and, although the floors of +the upper stories have been torn down, there would be no difficulty in +restoring them. As steps and stairs are absent, it was not possible to +reach the battlements. These are luxuriant with vegetation, of which I +should preserve a portion for shade and coolth. A fine arched cistern now +affords a shelter to bats; and a building which appears to be the chapel +remains on the northern side. Old iron guns still cumber the embrasures +and the ground. + +Issuing by the northern face, which has been torn down for ashlar, we set +up the photographic stand and took the north-western angle. Here an +enormous fig draws its life from the death of the wall. The morning air in +the shade was delicious, a great contrast with the heavy dampness of Axim; +and the view of the St. John's River west and of Cape Threepoints east was +charming. With usual neglect the photographer had sent out his machine and +dry plates without any means of developing them; we therefore worked +blindly and could not see results. + +When embarking in Prince's Bay, where the surf was perfectly safe, we were +informed a little too late of a valuable gold-mine called Kokobene. It +lies close behind the village Akitaki, which we had seen during our +morning's walk along the beach leading to Cape Threepoints. The chief, +Eshanchi, promised to forward specimens of the reefs, and did not forget +to keep his promise. The quartz-specimens which were brought to us at +Akankon by Wafapa, or Barnabas, promised excellently, and I authorised Mr. +Grant to buy an exploring right of the Kokobene-Akitaki diggings. Their +position as well as their quality will render them valuable: they will +prove a second Apatim. + +We returned to Axim on February 19, after a short but very satisfactory +trip which added much to our knowledge of the coast and its ways. It had +also the merit of being economical; we took matters in hand, and +consequently our four days cost us only 2_l_. 8_s_. + +I have spoken much about 'hydraulicking' in this chapter, and I shall now +borrow a few details concerning the operation from Sir William Logan, who, +in his 'Geological Survey of Canada,' quotes Mr. William P. Blake. +Speaking of California, the learned author writes, 'In this method the +force of a jet of water with great pressure is made available both for +excavating and washing the auriferous earth. The water, issuing in a +continuous stream with great force from a large hose-pipe like that of a +fire-engine, is directed against the base of a bank of earth and gravel, +and tears it away. The bank is rapidly undermined, the gravel is loosened, +violently rolled together, and cleansed from any adhering particles of +gold, while the fine clay and the sand are carried off by the water. In +this manner hundreds of tons of earth and gravel may be removed, and all +the gold which they contain liberated and secured with greater ease and +expedition than ten tons could be excavated and washed in the old way. All +the earth and gravel of a deposit is moved, washed, and carried off +through long sluices by the water, leaving the gold behind. Square acres +of earth on the hill-sides may thus be swept away into the hollows without +the aid of a pick or a shovel in excavation. Water performs all the +labour, moving and washing the earth in one operation, while in excavating +by hand the two processes are of necessity entirely distinct. The value of +this method and the yield of gold as compared with the older one can +hardly be estimated. + +'The water acts constantly with uniform effect, and can be brought to bear +upon almost any point, where it would be difficult for men to work. It is +especially effective in a region covered by trees, where the tangled roots +would greatly retard the labour of workmen. In such places the stream of +water washes out the earth from below, and tree after tree falls before +the current, any gold which may have adhered to the roots being washed +away. With a pressure of sixty feet and a pipe of from one and a half to +two inches' aperture, over 1,000 bushels of earth can be washed out from a +bank in a day. + +'Earth which contains only one-twenty-fifth part of a grain of gold, equal +to one-fifth of a cent in value to the bushel, may be profitably washed by +this method; and any earth or gravel which will pay the expense of washing +in the old way gives enormous profits by the new process. To wash +successfully in this way requires a plentiful supply of water, at an +elevation of from fifty to ninety feet above the bed-rock, [Footnote: This +is by no means necessary. The jet can be thrown from below like the +fireman's hose playing upon a burning house. I shall return to this highly +important subject.] and a rapid slope or descent from the base of the bank +of earth to be washed, so that the waste water will run off through the +sluices, bearing with it gravel, sand, and suspended clay. + + * * * * * + +'In the case of a deposit in North Carolina, where ten men were required +for thirty-five days to dig the earth with pick and shovel and wash it in +sluices, two men with a single jet of water could accomplish the same work +in a week. The great economy of this method is manifest from the fact that +many old deposits in the river-beds, the gravel of which had been already +washed by hand, have again been washed with profit by the hydraulic +method. + +'In California the whole art of working the diluvial gold-deposits was +revolutionised by this new method. The auriferous earth lying on hills and +at some distance above the level of the watercourses would in the ordinary +methods be excavated by hand and brought to the water, but by the present +system the water is brought by aqueducts to the gold-deposits, and whole +square miles which were before inaccessible have yielded up their precious +metal. It sometimes happens from the irregular distribution of the gold in +the diluvium in California that the upper portions of a deposit do not +contain gold enough to be washed by the ordinary methods, and would thus +have to be removed at a considerable expense in order to reach the richer +portion below. By the hydraulic method, however, the cost of cutting away +and excavating is so trifling that there is scarcely any bank of earth +which will not pay the expense of washing down in order to reach the rich +deposits of gold beneath.' + +To conclude. Our collection of plants was sent to the Herbarium, Kew; and, +as the Appendix (II. Part II.) shows, was kindly catalogued by the learned +Professor D. Oliver. + + + +CHAPTER XX. + +FROM AXIM TO INGOTRO AND AKANKON. + +After a long palaver with the three claimants to the Akankon +mining-ground, Kofi Blaychi (Little Blay), Kwako Jum, and Safahin Sensense +(the lessor), we left Axim once more (February 24) to inspect the head of +the Ancobra river. At the sleeping-place, Kumprasi, we were visited by Mr. +Cascaden, District-commissioner for Takwa, a fine-looking man of fifteen +stone, pulled down to twelve by dysentery. He was speedily followed to +England by his _remplacant_, Dr. Duke. + +Next morning, when the thick white fog, which made the smoking river +resemble Father Rhine in autumn, had been licked up by fiery rays, we +embarked, together with Chief Apo, of Asanta, the honest old owner of the +'Ingotro concession.' Our conveyance was the _Effuenta_, a steam-launch +attached to the mine of that name, bought second-hand, and a fine specimen +of what launches ought _not_ to be. Built by Messieurs Dickenson, of +Birkenhead, she is much too small (36 feet by 8) for a river which, even +in the depth of the dries, averages two fathoms, and rarely runs less than +ten feet. The engines are over far from the boiler, and the long raking +stern swells out into a big belly worthy of a manatee or a Dutch hoy. Her +boiler had been replaced with the usual inconsequence. She had been +repaired by an 'intelligent artisan,' Mr. Emery; but, as he was allowed no +tools and no time, he contented himself with reporting her in good working +order. Consequently after every half-hour we had to unscrew the +safety-valve, let off steam, and fill the boiler with a funnel and a tin +pot. Pleasant three hours under a thin board-awning, in a broiling sun, +off a poisonous mangrove-swamp! Presently she had to be started by the +surf-boat lashed to one side, and a large canoe to the other. Finally, +after a last breakdown, we saw steam-launch _Effuenta_ lying high and dry +upon the beach at Sanma. + +We had nothing to complain of the engineer, Mr. William George, a Sa +Leonite, and of the helmsman, Kwamina Ekum, a Gold Coast man. Both did +their best with the heavily laden trio of boats. Cameron established +himself--compass, log, lead, and dredge--in the steamer stern. His +admirable geographical labours in 'Crossing Africa' are, after a few years +of a swift-moving age, lapsing Lethe-wards; and + + To _have_ done is to hang + Quite out of fashion, like a rusty nail + In monumental mockery. + +Now he has another opportunity of doing valuable service, none of these +positions having been established by observations, and of showing +travellers how topography should be worked. He has before him for +correction the Hydrographic chart, which pretends to nothing within the +Coast, and the 'River Ankobra and Tarquah(!) Gold Mines,' printed in 1878 +by Captain Louis Wyatt, then District-commissioner for Axim. This first +attempt at a regular survey is meritorious for an amateur; but of course +it cannot compare with the produce of a scientific and experienced naval +surveyor. We had Lieut. Jeekel, before alluded to, but his scale, +1:250,000, is too small for details. I did not see, till long after our +return from this excursion, the then unfinished map by M. Paulus Dahse, a +veteran West-Coaster, who has spent years in travelling through the +interior. My fellow-voyager also was the first to show me the various +cartes printed and published by the late M. Bonnat. [Footnote: _Carte des +Concessions de 'The African Gold Coast Company_,' par M. J. Bonnat. Paris, +August 1879. Beginning south at Tumento, it does not show the southern +fork of the Bonsa or Abonsa River, which falls into the Ancobra's left +bank; and it ends a little north of Asseman, the cemetery of the 'kings.' +M. Bonnat had already printed in 1877 a _Chart of the River Ankobra_, +extending north as far as the 'Gold Mines of Aodoua.'] + +The Ancobra is an enlarged copy of the Yenna or Prince's River. There are +the same swampy borders and 'impenetrable forests,' as Captain Wyatt +entitles them; while the mangrove never quite disappears from this true +lagoon-stream. The monotonous fringe of rhizophores is broken, about two +miles from the mouth, by bamboo-palms and hibiscus-beds, then by the +bombax, the rubber-vine, the locust-tree (_inga_), and the +banana-plantation. The mounds and hillocks on either side, beginning with +the Akromasi and Kabudwe mounds, near the mouth, are evidently parts of an +ancient archipelago built by the mangrove and silted up to mainland. The +long and curious reaches are shown in my companion's map, and I shall +notice only those details which claim something of general interest. + +After about eight miles' steaming up a huge loop to the west, and a bend +easterly, we passed the Kwabina Bosom, or Fetish-Rocks, two wall-like +blocks, one mangrove-grown and the other comparatively bare. Contrary to +native usage, we chose the fair way between the latter and the left bank, +for which innovation, said our escort, we shall surely suffer. + +Beyond the Fetish-Rocks the right bank shows a cleared mound ready for +immediate planting: this concession once belonged to Dr. Ross, of Axim. +Opposite it the mining-ground has been leased for prospecting by Messieurs +Gillett and Selby. The notable feature of the river is now the +prawn-basket, a long cone closed at the blunt apex: the Ancobra is a +'Camarones,' supplying a first-rate article for curries. This is the work +of the uninteresting little villages, scatters of mere crates built in +holes worn in the bush; all disappear during the floods, and are rebuilt +in the dry season for growing rice and tapping palm-trees. Besides a few +humans they contain nothing save lean dogs and etiolated poultry; cattle, +sheep, and even pigs are wholly unknown. + +In the afternoon we pushed through a wild thunderstorm of furious tropical +rain, which pitted the river-face like musket-balls. It arose in the +south; but throughout the Ancobra valley wet weather apparently comes from +all directions. Chief Apo gravely ascribed it to our taking the wrong side +of the Fetish-Rocks. I have heard, even in civilised lands, sillier +post-hoc-ergo-propter-hocs. + +There were two landing-places for the large Ingotro concession, both on +the right bank. The lower leads, they say, over dry land, but the way is +long and hilly. That up stream is peculiarly foul, and to us it was made +fouler by the pelting shower. At low water, in the dry season, the little +Nanwa creek, subtending the higher ground on the north, becomes too +shallow for the smallest dug-out; and we had to wade or to be carried over +an expanse of fetid and poisonous mangrove-mud festering in the sun, and +promising a luxuriant growth of ague and fever. The first rise of sandy +yellow loam showed the normal Gold Coast metalling of iron-stone and +quartz-gravel, thinly spread with water-rounded pebbles. Then the path, +very badly laid out, merged into a second foul morass, whose depths were +crossed by the rudest of bridges, single and double trunks of felled or +fallen trees. Nothing easier than to corduroy this _mauvais pas_. + +A second rise showed a fine reef of white and blue quartz, which runs +right through the settlement to the banks of the Nanwa stream. A quarter +of an hour's walk from the landing-place placed us in the Nanwa village, +now popularly known as Walker-Kru. It consists of a few mean little +hovels, the usual cage-work, huddled together in most unpicturesque +confusion. Prick-eared curs, ducks, and fowls compose the bestial +habitants, to which must be added the regiments of rats (and ne'er a cat) +which infest all these places. There were no mosquitoes, but the sand-fly +bit viciously on mornings and evenings between the dark and sunlit hours, +confining one to the dim cage and putting a veto upon the pleasant lounge +or seat in the cool open. We found lodgings in the guest-hut of the +headman, Kwako Juma, like most of his brethren, a civil man and a greedy. +But the Krumen, boatmen and carriers, were also lodged in the little +settlement, and these people always make night hideous with their songs +and squabbles, their howling voices, and hyaena-like bursts of laughter. +It is very difficult to 'love one's neighbour as oneself' when he appears +in this form under these circumstances. + +By times next morning we woke too soon the villagers, who enjoy long talks +by night and deep slumbers in early day. They appear much inclined to +slumber again. But both Apo of Asanta and Juma of Nanwa were exceedingly +anxious to know when mining-works would begin, and, that failing, to +secure as much 'dash' as possible. + +The Ingotro concession, the largest we have yet seen, measures 3,000 +fathoms square, the measurements being taken from the central shaft. +Assuming every thousand fathoms roughly to represent a geographical mile, +the area would be of nine square miles. This will evidently admit of being +divided and sub-divided into half a dozen or more estates. As yet little +of its wealth has been explored, chiefly owing to the dense growth of +forest. As Mr. Walker remarks, 'Although timber is a great desideratum on +a mining-estate, the thick woods have the disadvantage of concealing many +rich deposits of gold, and I have very little doubt that the diminution of +the population, and the consequent overgrowth of the bush or jungle, has +much to do with the great falling off in the production and export of gold +from this region.' + +The emancipation of slaves and 'pawns' would have in Africa no other +effect. Free men will not work, and 'bush,' unless kept down, will grow +with terrible ferocity. + +When Indian file was duly formed, we descended the Nanwa hillock, which +takes its name from the stream. Here the little rivulet, deeply encased, +bore a fine growth of snowy water-lilies. It had been newly bridged with +corduroy. The next passage boasted tree-trunks, and after that all was +leaping. The Nanwa must rise near the trial-shaft, which we are about to +visit, and it snakes through the property in all directions with a general +rhumb from west-north-west to east-south-east. At this season there is +little or no flow, and the bed is mostly a string of detached pools, where +gold has been washed and will be washed again. Thus the facilities for +'hydraulicking' are superior, and the number of shallow native pits at +once suggests the properest process. + +We then struck across the heavily timbered country, which is the wildest +state of 'bushiness.' A few paces led to 'King's Croom,' a deserted +mining-village in a dwarf clearing rapidly overgrowing with the Brazilian +_Catinga_. Hereabouts we saw nothing save 'hungry quartz.' Then we struck +across three several ridges, whose slopes were notably easier on the +eastern, and more abrupt on the western side. The people had sunk several +pits in places likely to yield 'kindly quartz,' and they had made no +mistakes as to the overlay of the lode, its foot-wall or its hanging-wall. + +Cameron presently made an offset to the north, and, cutting his road, +walked ten minutes up the tail of Tuako Hill, at whose southern base lies +the Nanwa bed. Here, guided by Mr. Grant, who knew the place well, he +found a native shaft thirty feet deep and a lode of disintegrated quartz +in red or yellow ferruginous clay, the surface looking as rich as the +stone it overlies. + +A few paces further and a third drop led us again to the swampy valley of +the Nanwa, here flowing south. It is bounded by two rises, tree-grown from +foot to head. That on the left bank is the Tuako, the husband, along whose +skirt we have been walking; the other, on the opposite side, is Jama, the +wife. From their conjugal visits the gold is born. Some attempts had been +made to blast a rock in the skirt of Jama's garment; but all had notably +failed. The reeking, unwholesome bottom showed extensive traces of digging +and washing. + +Following the water, we came to the second little mining-village, also +deserted. The name 'Ingotro' means a broad-leaved liliaceous plant, the +_wura-haban_ (water-leaf) of the Fantis, used for thatching when +palm-fronds are not found. From this place an old bush-path once led +directly to the lands we call 'Izrah,' but it has long been closed by +native squabbles. A few yards further placed us in an exceedingly rich +bottom, honeycombed by native workers. Hard by it appeared the central +shaft, lying between two hills, the Ingotro-buka and the Nanwa-buka, which +define the course of the rivulet. The distance from Nanwa village may have +been three miles, but we had spent more than three hours in making +collections. + +Amongst the insects was the silk-spider, a large arachnid of +sulphur-yellow tint, with three black transverse bars. It weaves no web, +but spins a thread of the strongest texture and the richest golden hue. I +had sent from Fernando Po several pounds of this fine silk, intending to +experiment upon it in a veil or lace shawl; and afterwards I learned that +the Empress Eugenie had a dress made of it, which cost a fabulous number +of francs. Bacon and other old writers talk of 'spider's silk' like +gathering moonbeams. [Footnote: The _Ananse_ or _Agya ananse_ (father +spider), as the Oji-speaking peoples call the insect, is with them either +a creator of man (corresponding so far with the scarabeus in the Nile +valley) or a representative of the evil principle. Bosman (Letter xvii.), +describing a 'great hideous hairy species,' says, 'The negroes call this +spider _ananse_, and believe that the first men were made by that +creature; and, notwithstanding some of them by conversation with the +Europeans are better informed, there are yet a great number that remain of +that opinion, out of which folly they are not to be reasoned.' The people +have a number of fables called _Anansesem_, such as _Spider and Spiderson +and the Three Ghosts_; in these spider-stories the insect, like the fox +with us, is the most intelligent of animals (the late Rev. J. Zimmermann's +_Akra or Ga Grammar_, Stuttgart, 1858). It is represented as speaking +through the nose like the local 'bogy,' and its hobbling gait is imitated +by the story-teller. Another superstition is that the Ananu (the Akra form +of the word) injures children sleeping in the same room with it. At +Fernando Po I found another valuable spider which preys upon cockroaches. +When a cruiser was particularly afflicted by the _blatta_, a couple of +these insects would effectually clear chests and drawers in a few days. +There are other species, _Entekuma_, &c.] + +The upper shaft had been sunk, as it should be, in the eastern flank of +the hill, which faces north 71ş east, and which runs north 3ş west (both +true). The surface and subsoil are the usual sandy loam scattered with +gravel of quartz and ironstone, and the spoil-banks showed blue and white +quartz. The clay-slate, dark, soft, and laminated, appeared everywhere. +Lower down, on the same slope, Mr. Grant had dug a second shaft, somewhat +smaller than the upper: both were full of rain-water. Mr. Walker mentions +a large native pit near the centre, whence rich stone had been taken. He +picked up from the refuse several pieces of quartz showing free gold, +which gave, when assayed, 2.6 oz. gold and 0.3 oz. silver per ton. This +was from a depth of only ten feet. His own trial-shaft, when he left the +Coast, was not more than three feet deep; but every sample showed traces +of gold, and an Australian miner of thirty years' experience declared that +the 'stuff' promised a rich yield below. Like ourselves, he found the +whole country 'impregnated with gold.' On the path within fifty yards of +the Nanwa village we knocked off some pieces of quartz that displayed the +precious ore to the naked eye. + +The slope in which the two shafts had been sunk fell into a depression +between the hills which indicated the richest surface-diggings. Here a +number of detached sinkings had been run together by the recent rains into +a long miry pool. Mr. Walker also speaks of a 'very large number of +shallow native pits.' No one could see this exceedingly rich 'gulch' +without determining that it should be washed upon the largest scale. It +will be time to sink shafts and make deep diggings here when sluicing and +surfacing shall have done their work. + +From Ingotro we marched back to Nanwa and took leave of Chief Apo; his +parting words were a request that work might be begun as soon as possible, +and that at any rate his concession should be properly marked out. The +limitation must not be neglected, but the exploitation of the diggings is +another affair. The ground is exceptionally rich in gold, and it offers +every facility for extracting the metal. But the climate of the lowlands +presents difficulties. In so large an area of broken ground, however, +there are eminences that command a prospect of the sea and which are +within the influence of the sea-breeze. The conditions will, doubtless, +improve when the adjacent mining-grounds, Inyoko and Izrah, shall have +been opened and the country cleared and ventilated. In the meantime light +works and hydraulicking on an extensive scale might be begun at once, +especially during the rainy season, under seasoned and acclimatised +overseers. An amelioration must be the result, and even before the rich +surface has been washed it will be possible to set up heavy machinery for +deep working, shafting, and tunnelling. + +Embarking about 3 P.M. on board _Effuenta_, we steamed up the Ancobra, +which here looks more like a river and less like a lagoon. The settlements +become more important, the first being Nfia-kru, or the 'dog-village.' +There were many influents, which showed like dark breaches in the rampart +of verdure. Such was the Ahema (Huma), a creek that breaks the left bank. +This name may become memorable. Upon its upper course Messieurs Gillett +and Selby have a small mining concession, and in its golden gravels Mr. O. +Pegler, Associate of the School of Mines, found a crystal which he +strongly suspected to be a diamond. It was taken to Axim, where its +glass-cutting properties were proved. Unfortunately during one of these +trials the setting gave way, and the stone fell into a heap of rubbish, +where it could not be found. Many have suspected that these regions will +prove diamantiferous; and it is reported that an experienced French +mineralogist, who has visited the South African diggings, landed at Assini +and proposed to canoe up the Tando River to the Takwa mines, prospecting +in search of his specialty. + +A portentous cloud ahead growled its thunder and discharged thin rain, +while the westing sun shone clear and bright. In Dahome the combination +suggests the ghosts of Kutomen going to market, [Footnote: The Akra-men +make Sisaman, their Kutomen, Scheol or Hades, a town on one of the Volta +holms or somewhere beyond. The Gold Coast has three species of departed +'spirits' (_asamanfo_)--the shades of men who fell in fight or by accident +(as by a tree-fall); common spirits, and lingering spirits, so called +because they do not enter Shade-land, but hover about man's dwellings. The +slain never associate with the commonalty; they walk about rubbed with +white clay and clad in white; nor are they afraid of, whereas the others +fly from, and are unwilling to be seen by, the living. 'It is said in the +Dead-land below the earth there are kings as well as slaves. If you have +been long sick in this world you will recover health there after three +years, but one killed in battle or by accident will be well in a month or +so. It is said that Dead-land is below (earth); others declare it is above +(the sky). About this there is no certainty. Where one is taken to when he +dies there his spirit is; when they die and take you to the spirits' +grove, then your spirit is in the grove. The town (or land) of the +departed spirits is not in the grove, but in the earth; it is a large +town, and going there a mountain has to be climbed. The way of one who +died a natural death is dark in heaven; but if one who died in battle or +by accident take that way, some of the white clay with which he is rubbed +falls down; therefore his way (_via lactea_) appears white. In the +spirits' grove the departed spirits do not stay always; only on certain +days they assemble there for eating, drinking, and playing.' Yet these +'spiritualists' (_with_ the spirits) have scant pleasure in contemplating +the future. Their proverb is, 'A corner in the world of matter is better +than a world of spirits,'--Page 407, _Dictionary of the Asante and Fante +Languages_, by Rev. J. G. Christaller.] in Fanti-land the hunchback woman +becoming a mother, and in England his Satanic Majesty beating his wife. +Off the Eketekki village we saw, for the first time, bad snags, which will +require removal. About sunset the Aka-kru settlement, the largest yet +noted, appeared on the left bank. Here the Akankon Mining Company has a +native house of wattle and dab, looking somewhat better than the normal +mud-cabin. It had been unceremoniously occupied by natives, who roared +their laughter when ordered to turn out. From Aka-kru there is a direct +line to the Effuenta, within an hour's walk of the Takwa mine; the four +stages can be covered in twenty hours. [Footnote: Mr. Gillett, who had +lately passed over it, gave me these notes on the line. No. 1 stage from +Aka-kru crosses virgin land, the property of the 'King' of Axim, to +Autobrun (three hours); No. 2 leads over fine level ground to Dompe (nine +hours slow); No. 3 to Abrafu, on the Abonsa River, one march south of the +Abonsa station (three hours); No. 4 to the Effuenta mine (five hours).] + +At 6.30 P.M. we saw, a little above Aka-kru, and also on the left bank, +Jyachabo, or 'Silver-' (Jyacho) 'stone.' Of this settlement Captain Wyatt +notes, 'It is said that a silver-mine was formerly worked here by the +Dutch and Portuguese.' Hard by the north of it lie the ruins of the old +Hollanders' fort, St. John, which the natives have corrupted to +'Senchorsu;' the people, however, did not seem to know their whereabouts. +We determined to push on to Akankon, despite the ugly prospect of a dark +walk through the wet bush, and of deferring the survey to another time. +Suddenly we saw on the right bank the black silhouette of a house, +standing high and lone in its clearing, and we made fast to a good +landing-place, an inclined plane of corduroy. It was an unexpected +pleasure; both had been put up after Cameron left the mine by the native +caretaker, Mr. Morris. + +We slept soundly through a cool and pleasant night at 'Riverside House.' +The large building of palm-fronds, with a roof like the lid of a +lunch-basket, contains three rooms, and will be provided with outhouses. +Inside and outside it is whitewashed above and blackwashed below. The +coal-tar was suggested by my nautical companion; and, for the first time +on the Ancobra River, we exchanged the _bouquet d'Afrique_ for the smell +of Europe. The big crate stands high upon the right bank, here rising +about twenty feet, and affording a pleasant prospect of breezy brown +stream deeply encased in bright green forest. The draught caused by +flowing water keeps the clearing clean of sand-flies, the pest of the +inner settlements, and European employes will find the place healthy. The +up-sloping ground behind the house could be laid out in a pottage-garden; +and, as Bahama-grass grows fast, there will be no difficulty about +disposing of the under-growth. + +Next morning (February 27) we were joined by Mr. Morris, who told the long +tale of his grievances. He had been in charge of ten men for five months, +during which he had not received a farthing of pay. Consequently his gang +had struck work. Thus chatting we followed the cleared path leading up the +right bank of the little Akankon creek: now dry, it is navigable for +canoes during the rains, and falls into the Ancobra under a good corduroy +bridge near the landing-ramp. A line of posts showed the levels which had +been carefully marked by Cameron. It was a pleasure to see the bed; it had +been scraped in many places by the gold-washer, and it promises an ample +harvest when properly worked. We left on the left hand Safahin Sensense's +village, a cluster of huts surrounded by bananas; we crossed the shallow +head of the creek, all a swamp during the rains; we walked up a dwarf +slope, and after half an hour we found ourselves at 'Granton.' + +The position of Granton is not happily chosen. Though the hill-side faces +south it is beyond reach of the sea-breeze; the damp and wooded depression +breeds swarms of sand-flies, and being only forty feet above the river, it +is reeking hot. The thermometer about noon never showed less than 92ş +(F.), and often rose to 96ş; in the Rains it falls to 72ş, and the nights +are cold with damp. It will be a question which season will here prove the +safest for working. On the coast I should say the Rains; in the higher +lands about the Effuenta mine I am told that the Dries must be preferred. + +Granton is, or was, composed of eight tenements disposed to form a hollow +square. Five of them are native cages of frond and thatch, which I should +have preferred on a second visit. The rest are planks brought from Europe, +good carpentry-work, and raised a little off the ground. Unfortunately the +bulkheads are close above, instead of being latticed for draught. The +items are two boxes--sleeping-room and store-room--with a larger lodging +of four rooms which sadly wants a flying-roof. The offices are kept in +good order by the penniless caretaker, who has been left entirely without +supplies, and who is obliged to borrow our ink-bottles. + +We lost no time in visiting the 'Akankon' reef, a word appropriately +meaning 'abandoned' or 'left alone.' The people, however, understand it in +the sense that, when a miner has taken possession of the ground, and has +shown a right to it, his fellows leave him to work and betake themselves +elsewhere. Immediately behind the huts we came upon a broad streak +cochineal-red, except where tarnished by oxygen, where it looked +superficially like ochre. The strike ran parallel with the quartz-reef, +north 5ş east (true). Cameron had broken some of the stone into chips, +subjected it to the blow-pipe, and obtained bright globules of +quicksilver. Veins of sulphide of mercury, cinnabar, or vermilion have +been found in other parts of the Protectorate: we suspected their presence +at Apatim, and collected specimens, still to be assayed. The natives have +an idea that when 'the gold turns white' it is uncanny to work the place; +moreover, silver is always removed from the person when miners approach +the gold-diggings. I should explain the phenomenon by the presence of +mercury. + +A good road, with side-drains, running about half a mile to the north, has +been kept open by the care-taker. To its right is a manner of hillock, +evidently an old plantation, in some places replanted. From the top a view +to the west shows three several ridges, the Akankon proper, Ijimunbukai, +and Agunah, blue in the distance. Northwards the Akankon hog's-back is +seen sweeping riverwards from north to north-east, rising to the hill +Akankon-bukah. Here Mr. Amondsen, a Danish sailor long employed in +Messieurs Swanzy's local sailing craft, and lately sent out by the +Company, informed me that he proposed to transfer the quarters for +European employes. He has, however, I am told, changed his mind and built +upon 'Plantation Hillock.' On the left or western side of the road the +Akankon ridge is subtended by a hollow, the valley of a streamlet in rainy +weather. This supply, which can easily be made perennial, will greatly +facilitate washing. The highway ended in a depression, where stood the +deserted 'Krumen's quarters.' The only sign of work was a peculiar +cross-cut made by Mr. Cornish, C.E., one of the engineers. + +From this point, turning abruptly from north to west, we took the steep +narrow path which climbs the Akankon ridge, rising 78 feet above the +river. A few paces led us to the prospecting shaft, a native pit squared +and timbered by Mr. Cornish. He was assisted by Mr. James B. Ross, +'practical miner, working manager, and mine-owner for the last twenty +years in Queensland, Australia.' He thus describes himself in the very +able report which he sent to his company; and I am glad to hear that he +has returned to the Gold Coast. The shaft, 40 feet from 'the outcrop,' and +50 from the hill-base, is bottomed at the depth of 52 feet. Unfortunately +it is only box-timbered, and much of the woodwork was shaken down by the +blasts. The sinking through stiff clay, stained with iron, cobalt, +manganese, and cinnabar, was reported easy. But where the hanging and foot +walls should have been, fragments of clay, iron, and mica-slate showed +that the former lie still deeper. My companion proposed a descent into the +shaft by bucket and windlass. I declined, greatly distrusting such +deserted pits, especially in this region, where they appear unusually +liable to foul. Two days afterwards a Kruboy went down and was brought to +grass almost insensible from the choke-damp; his hands clenched the rope +so tightly that their grip was hard to loose. + +We then mounted to 'the outcrop' near the ridge-summit, 100 yards +north-north-east. This reef-crest is a tongue of quartz and quartzite +veining grey granite: it was found dug out and cleared all round by the +people. Mr. Cornish had contented himself with splitting off a fragment by +a shot or two. + +When the whole hill shall have been properly washed, the contained reefs +will present this wall-like appearance. The dimensions are ten feet long +by the same height and half that thickness, and the slope shows an angle +of 40ş. We passed onwards to the top of the ridge, winding among the pits +and round holes sunk by the native miners in order to work the casing of +the reef. One of these, carefully measured, showed 82 feet. About sixty +yards to the north-north-east we reached the crest of what Mr. Ross calls +'Ponsonby Hill.' He notices that the strike of the quartz, which shows +visible gold, is from north-north-east to south-south-west, and its +underlie to the south-east is at the ratio of one inch in twelve. Cameron +found that near the head of the descent, 120 feet to the plain below, +three, and perhaps four lodes meet. The true bed, with a measured +thickness of 157 feet, strikes north 22ş east, the western 355ş, and the +eastern north 37ş east (true). All radiate from one point, a knot which +gives 'great expectations.' The natives have opened large man-holes in +search of loose gold, and here, tradition says, many nuggets have been +found. A greater number will come to light when the miners shall dig the +'blind creek' to the east, and when the roots of the secular trees +crowning the summit shall be laid bare by the hose. I would wash down and +sluice the whole of the Akankon ridge. + +Next day we proceeded to inspect two other reefs lying to the south-west +and to the south-east. The first, Asan-kuma(?), lies a few yards from +Granton, on the left of the path leading to our landing-place. The ground +was covered with deep bush, and painfully infested with the _Nkran_, or +_enkran_, [Footnote: _Anglice_ the 'driver,' a small black formica which +bites severely, clears out houses, destroys the smaller animals, and has, +it is said, overpowered and destroyed hunters when, torpid with fatigue, +they have fallen asleep in the bush. The same horrible end, being eaten +alive, atom by atom, has befallen white traders whose sickness prevented +their escape. 'Accra,' which calls itself Ga, is known to the Oji-speaking +peoples as 'Enkran,' and must be translated 'Land of Drivers,' not of +White Ants.] which marched in detached but parallel lines. It rises gently +in slopes of yellow clay towards the west, and doubtless it covers +quartz-reefs, as the lay is the usual meridional. The talus, pitted with +the shallow pans called 'women's washings,' shows signs of hard work, +probably dating from the days when every headman had his gang of 'pawns' +and slaves. Rising at the head of the creek, itself a natural gold-sluice, +its bed and banks can carry any number of flumes, which would deposit +their precious burden in cisterns near the river. I need hardly say they +must be made movable, so as to raise their level above the inundation. +Here the one thing wanted would be a miner accustomed to 'hydraulicking' +in California or British Columbia, Australia or South Africa. I hope that +the work will not be placed in inexperienced hands, whose blunders of +ignorance will give the invaluable and infallible process a bad name. + +Retracing our steps, we made the chief Sensense's village, and persuaded +him to guide us. The short cut led through a forest and a swamp, which +reeked with nauseating sulphuretted hydrogen. We avoided it on return by a +_detour_. After a short hour's walk we ascended a banana-grown hillock, +upon which lay the ruins of the little mining-village Abeseba. A few paces +further, through a forest rich in gamboge and dragon's blood (not the _D. +draco_), in rubber and in gutta-percha (?), where well-laden lime-trees +gave out their perfume, placed us upon the great south-eastern reef. It +was everywhere drilled with pits, and we obtained fine specimens from one +which measured twenty feet deep. Several of them were united by rude and +dangerous tunnels. I have heard of these galleries being pierced in other +places; but the process is not common, and has probably been copied from +Europeans. + +On March 1 was held a formal palaver of headmen and elders. The Akankon +concession had been bought by Messieurs Bonnat and Wyatt from Sensense of +the fetish, whose ancestors, he declared, had long ruled the whole +country. The rent, they say, was small--$4 per mensem and 15 pereguins +(135_l_. [Footnote: Assuming at 9_l_. the pereguin, which others reduce at +8_l_. and others raise to 10_l_.]) per annum--when operations began. I +have heard these gentlemen blamed, and very unjustly, for buying so cheap +and selling so dear--17,000_l_. in cash and 33,000_l_. in shares. But the +conditions were well worth the native's acceptance; and, if he be +satisfied, no one can complain. The apparently large amount included the +expenses of 'bringing out' the mine; and these probably swallowed a half. +When Sensense received his pay, a host of rival claimants started up. In +these lands there is no law against trespass; wherever a plantation is +deserted the squatter may occupy it, and popular opinion allows him and +his descendants the permanent right of using, letting, or selling it. I do +not think, however, that this rule would apply to a white man. + +Sensense's claims were contested by three chiefs--Kofi Blay-chi, Kwako +Bukari, who brought an acute advocate, Ebba of Axim, and Kwako Jum, a fine +specimen of the sea-lawyer; this bumptious black had pulled down the board +which marked the Abeseba reef, and had worked the pits to his own profit. +After many meetings, of which the present was our last, the litigants +decided that hire and 'dashes' should be shared by only two, Sensense and +Kofi Blay-chi. Energetic Jum, finding his pretensions formally ignored, +jumped up and at once set out to 'enter a protest' in legal form at Axim. + +The crowd of notables present affixed their marks, which, however, they by +no means connected with the 'sign of the Cross.' We witnessed the +document, and a case of trade-gin concluded an unpleasant business that +threatened the Apatim as well as the Akankon concession. I repeat what I +have before noted: too much care cannot be taken when title to ground in +Africa is concerned. And a Registration Office is much wanted at +head-quarters; otherwise we may expect endless litigation and the advent +of the London attorney. Moreover, the people are fast learning foreign +ideas. Sensense, for instance, is nephew (sister's son) to Blay-chi, which +relationship in Black-land makes him the heir: meanwhile his affectionate +uncle works upon the knowledge that this style of succession does not hold +good in England. + +The eventful evening ended with a ball, which demanded another +distribution of gin. The dance was a compound affair. The Krumen had their +own. Forming an Indian file for attack, they carried bits of board instead +of weapons; and it was well that they did so, the warlike performance +causing immense excitement. The Apollonians preferred wide skirts and the +_pas seul_ of an amatory nature; it caused shrieks of laughter, and at +last even the women and wees could not prevent joining in the sport. Years +ago I began to collect notes upon the dances of the world; and the +desultory labour of some months convinced me that an exhaustive monograph, +supposing such thing possible, would take a fair slice out of a man's +life. I learnt, however, one general rule--that all the myriad forms of +dancing originally express only love and war, in African parlance +'woman-palaver' and 'land-palaver.' However much the 'quiet grace of high +refinement' may disguise original significance, Nature will sometimes +return despite the pitchfork; witness a _bal de l'Opera_ in the palmy days +of the Second Empire. + +The Kruman ball ended in a battle royal. The results were muzzles swollen +and puffed out like those of mandrills, and black eyes--that is to say, +blood-red orbits where the skin had been abraded by fist and stick. As +they applied to us for justice and redress, we administered it, after +'seeing face and back,' or hearing both sides, by a general cutting-off of +the gin-supply and a temporary stoppage of 'Sunday-beef.' + +I cannot leave this rich and unhappy Akankon mine without a few +reflections; it so admirably solves the problem 'how _not_ to do it.' The +concession was negotiated in 1878. In April 1881 Cameron proceeded to open +operations, accompanied by the grantee and four Englishmen, engineers and +miners. He was, however, restricted to giving advice, and was not +permitted to command. The results, as we have seen, were a round shaft +made square and a cross-cut which cut nothing. As little more appeared +likely to be done, and harmony was not the order of the day, my companion +sent the party home in June 1881, and followed it himself shortly +afterwards. Since that time the Company has been spending much money and +making _nil_. The council-room has been a barren battle-field over a +choice of superintendents and the properest kind of machinery, London-work +being pitted, for 'palm-oil' in commission-shape, against provincial work. +And at the moment I write (May 1, 1882), when 7,000_l_. have been spent or +wasted, the shares, 10_s._ in the pound paid up, may be bought for a +quarter. I can only hope that Mr. Amondsen, who met me at Axim, may follow +my suggestions and send home alluvial gold. + +Cameron's most sensible advice concerning the local establishment required +for Akankon was as follows:-- + +He laid down the total expenditure at 21,000_l_. per annum, including +expenses in England. This sum would work 100 tons per diem with 350 hands +(each at 1_s_. hire and 3_d_. subsistence-money) and sixteen cooks and +servants. The staff would consist of six officers. The manager should draw +800_l_. (not 1,200_l_.), and the surgeon, absolutely necessary in case of +accidents, 450_l_. with rations. This is the pay of Government, which does +not allow subsistence. The reduction-officer and the book-keeper are rated +at 500_l_., and the superintendent of works and the head-miner each at +240_l_. The pay of carpenters and other mechanics, who should know how to +make small castings, would range from 180_l_. to 150_l_. The first native +clerk and the store-keeper would be paid 100_l_.; the time-keeper, with +three assistants, 70_l_. and 65_l_. The manager requires office, +sitting-room, and bedroom, and the medico a dispensary; the other four +would have separate sleeping-places and a common parlour. Each room would +have its small German stove for burning mangrove-fuel; and a fire-engine +should be handy on every establishment. All the white employes would mess +together, unless it be found advisable to make two divisions. The house +would be of the usual pitch-pine boarding on piles, like those of Lagos, +omitting the common passage or gallery, which threatens uncleanness; and +the rooms might be made gay with pictures and coloured prints. The natives +would build bamboo-huts. + +Cameron, well knowing what _ennui_ in Africa means, would send out a +billiard-table and a good lathe: he also proposed a skittle- or +bowling-alley, a ground for lawn-tennis under a shed, an ice-machine and +one for making soda-water. Each establishment would have its library, a +good atlas, a few works of reference, and treatises on mining, machinery, +and natural history. The bulk would be the cheap novels (each 4_d_.) in +which weary men delight. In addition to the 'Mining Journal,' the +'Illustrated,' and the comics, local and country papers should be sent +out; exiles care more for the 'Little Pedlington Courant' than for the +'journal of the City,' the 'Times.' + +Gardening should be encouraged. The vegetables would be occros +(_hibiscus_) and brinjalls, lettuce, tomatoes, and marrow; yam and sweet +potatoes, pumpkins, peppers and cucumbers, whose seeds yield a +fine-flavoured salad-oil not sold in London. The fruits are grapes and +pine-apples, limes and oranges, mangoes and melons, papaws and a long list +of native growth. Nor should flowers be neglected, especially the pink and +the rose. The land, fenced in for privacy, would produce in abundance +holeus-millet, rice, and lucern for beasts. There would be a +breeding-ground for black cattle, sheep, goats, and pigs, and a +poultry-yard protected against wild cats. + +The routine-day would be as follows: At 5.15 A.M. first bell, and notice +to 'turn out;' at 5.40 the 'little breakfast' of tea or coffee, +bread-and-butter, or toast, ham and eggs. The five working-hours of +morning (6-11 A.M.) to be followed by a substantial _dejeuner a la +fourchette_ at 11.30. Each would have a pint of beer or claret, and be +allowed one bottle of whisky a week. Mr. Ross, the miner, preferred +breakfast at 8 A.M., dinner at 1 P.M., and 'tea' at 5 P.M.; but these +hours leave scant room for work. + +The warning-bell, at 12.45 P.M., after 1 hr. 45 min. rest, would prepare +the men to fall in, and return to work at 1 P.M.; and the afternoon-spell +would last till 5.30. Thus the working-day contains 9 hrs. 30 min. Dinner +would be served at any time after 6 P.M., and the allowance of liquor be +that of the breakfast. An occasional holiday to Axim should be allowed, in +order to correct the monotony of jungle-life. + + + +CHAPTER XXI. + +TO TUMENTO, THE 'GREAT CENTRAL DEPOT.' + +March 4 was a sore trial to us both. We 'went down' on the same day and +by our own fault. We had given the sorely-abused climate no chance; nor +have we any right to abuse it instead of blaming ourselves. The stranger +should begin work quietly in these regions; living, if possible, near the +coast and gradually increasing his exercise and exposure. Within three +months, especially if he be lucky enough to pass through a mild +'seasoning' of ague and fever, he becomes 'acclimatised,' the consecrated +term for a European shorn of his redundant health, strength, and vigour. +Medical men warn new comers, and for years we had read their warnings, +against the 'exhaustion of the physical powers of the body from +over-exertion.' They prescribe gentle constitutionals to men whose hours +must do the work of days. It is like ordering a pauper-patient generous +diet in the shape of port and beef-steaks; for the safe system, which +takes a quarter of a year, would have swallowed up all our time. +Consequently we worked too hard. Our mornings and evenings were spent in +collecting, and our days in boating, or in walking instead of hammocking. +Indeed, we placed, by way of derision, the Krumen in the fashionable +vehicle. And we had been too confident in our past 'seasoning;' we had +neglected such simple precautions as morning and evening fires and +mosquito-bars at night; finally, we had exposed ourselves somewhat +recklessly to sickly sun and sweltering swamp. Four days on the burning +hill-side completed the work. My companion was prostrated by a bilious +attack, I by ague and fever. + +'I thought you were at least fever-proof,' says the candid friend, as if +one had compromised oneself. + +Alas! no: a man is not fever-proof in Africa till he takes permanent +possession of his little landed estate. Happily we had our remedies at +hand. There was no medico within hail; and, had there been, we should have +hesitated to call him in. These gentlemen are Government servants, who add +to their official salaries (400_l._ per annum) by private practice. For +five visits to a sick Kruboy six guineas have been charged; 5_l._ for +tapping a liver and sending two draughts and a box of pills, and 37_l._ +10_s._ for treating a mild tertian which lasted a week. The late M. Bonnat +cost 80_l._ for a fortnight. Such fees should attract a host of talented +young practitioners from England; at any rate they suggest that each mine +or group of mines should carry its own surgeon. + +Cameron applied himself diligently to chlorodyne, one of the two +invaluables on the Coast. We had a large store, but unfortunately the +natives have learnt its intoxicating properties, and during our absence +from Axim many bottles had disappeared. I need hardly say that good locks +and keys are prime necessaries in these lands, and that they are mostly +'found wanting.' + +I addrest myself to Warburg's drops (_Tinctura Warburgii_), a preparation +invaluable for travellers in the tropics and in the lower temperates. The +action appears to be chiefly on the liver through the skin. The more a +traveller sees, the firmer becomes his conviction that health means the +good condition of this rebellious viscus, and that its derangement causes +the two great pests of Africa, dysentery and fever. Indeed, he is apt to +become superstitious upon the subject, and to believe that a host of +diseases--gout and rheumatism, cholera and enteric complaints--result +from, and are to be cured or relieved only by subduing, hepatic +disturbances. My 'Warburg' was procured directly from the inventor, not +from the common chemist, who makes the little phialful for 9_d._ and sells +it for 4_s._ 6_d_. Some years ago a distinguished medical friend persuaded +Dr. Warburg, once of Vienna, now of London, to reveal his secret, in the +forlorn hope of a liberal remuneration by the Home Government. Needless to +say the reward is to come. I first learnt to appreciate this specific at +Zanzibar in 1856, where Lieut.-Colonel Hamerton used it successfully in +the most dangerous remittents and marsh-fevers. Cases of the febrifuge +were sent out to the Coast during the Ashanti war for the benefit of army +and navy: the latter, they say, made extensive use of it. I have +persistently recommended it to my friends and the public; and, before +leaving England in 1879, I wrote to the 'Times,' proposing that all who +owe (like myself) their lives to Dr. Warburg should join in relieving his +straitened means by a small subscription. At this moment (June 1882) +measures are being taken in favour of the inventor, and I can only hope +that the result will be favourable. + +The 'drops' are composed of the aromatic, sudorific and diaphoretic drugs +used as febrifuges by the faculty before the days of 'Jesuits' bark,' to +which a small quantity of quinine is added. Thus the tincture is +successful in many complaints besides fevers. Evidently skilful +manipulation is an important factor in the sum of its success. Dr. Warburg +has had the experience of the third of a century, and the authorities +could not do better than to give him a contract for making his own cure. + +The enemy came on with treacherous gentleness--a slight rigor, a dull pain +in the head, and a local irritation. 'I have had dozens of fevers, and +dread them little more than a cold,' said Winwood Reade; indeed, the +English catarrh is quite as bad as the common marsh-tertian of the Coast. +The normal month of immunity had passed; I was prepared for the inevitable +ordeal, and I flattered myself that it would be a mild ague, at worst the +affair of a week, Altro! + +Next morning two white men, owning that they felt 'awful mean,' left +Granton, walked down to Riverside House, and at 8 A.M. embarked upon the +hapless _Effuenta_. The stream rapidly narrowed, and its aspect became +wilder. Dead trees, anchored by the bole-base, cumbered the bed, and dykes +and bars of slate, overlaid by shales of recent date, projected from +either side. The land showed no sign of hills, but the banks were steep at +this season, in places here and there based on ruddy sand and exposing +strips of rude conglomerate, the _cascalho_ of the Brazil. This pudding is +composed of waterworn pebbles, bedded in a dark clayey soil which crumbles +under the touch. On an arenaceous strip projecting from the western edge +the women were washing and panning where the bottom of the digging was +below that of the river. This is an everyday sight on the Ancobra, and it +shows what scientific 'hydraulicking' will do. After six hours of +steaming, not including three to fill the boiler, we halted at Enframadie, +the Fanti Frammanji, meaning 'wind cools,' that is, falls calm. It is a +wretched split heap of huts on the left bank, one patch higher pitched +than the other, to avoid the floods; the tenements are mere cages, the +bush lying close to the walls, and supplies are unprocurable. In fact, the +further we go the worse we fare as regards mere lodgings; yet the site of +our present halt is a high bank of yellow clay, which suggests better +things. There is no reason why this miserable hole should not be made the +river-depot. + +On March 4 we set out in the 'lizard's sun,' as the people call the +morning rays; our vehicle was the surf-boat, escorted by the big canoe. +Enframadie is the terminus of launch-navigation; the snags in the Dries +stop the way, and she cannot stem the current of the Rains. The Ancobra +now resembles the St. John's or Prince's River in the matter of +timber-floorwork and _chevaux de frise_ of tree-corpses disposed in every +possible direction. After half an hour we paddled past the 'Devil's Gate,' +a modern name for an old and ugly feature. H.S.M.'s entrance (to home?) is +formed by black reefs and ridges projected gridiron-fashion from ledges on +either side almost across the stream, leaving a narrow _Thalweg_ so +shallow that the boatmen must walk and drag. During the height of the +floods it is sometimes covered for a few hours by forty feet of water, +rising and falling with perilous continuity. + +Beyond 'Devil's Gate' a pleasant surprise awaited us. Mr. D. C. MacLennan, +manager of the Effuenta mine, [Footnote: The name was given by M. Dahse; +it is that of the first worker, Efuata, a woman born on Saturday (_Efua_), +and the third of a series of daughters (_ata_).] stopped his canoe to +greet us. He was justly proud of his charge--a box of amalgam weighing 15 +lbs. and carrying eighty ounces of gold. It was to be retorted at home and +to be followed within a fortnight by a larger delivery, and afterwards by +monthly remittances. The precious case, which will give courage to so many +half-hearted shareholders, was duly embarked on the A.S.S. _Ambriz_ +(Captain Crookes); and its successor, containing the produce of a hundred +tons, on the B. and A. _Benguela_ (Captain Porter). Consequently the +papers declared that Effuenta was first in the field of results. This is +by no means the case. As early as November 1881 Mr. W. E. Crocker, of +Crockerville, manager of the important Wasa, (Wassaw) mining-property, +sent home gold--amalgam, and black sand [Footnote: I have before noticed +this 'golden sea-sand.' It has lately been found, the papers tell me, on +the coast about Cape Commerell, British Columbia. A handful, taken from a +few inches below the surface, shows glittering specks of 'float-gold,' +scales so fine that it was difficult to wash them by machinery. Mem. This +is what women do every day on the Gold Coast. The _Colonist_ says that a +San Francisco company has at length hit upon the contrivance. It consists +of six drawers or layers of plates punched with holes about half an inch +in diameter, and covered with amalgam. The gold-sand is 'dumped in;' and +the water, turned on the top-plate, sets all in motion: the sand falls +from plate to plate, leaving the free loose gold which has attached itself +to the amalgam, and very little remains to be caught by the sixth plate. +So simple a process is eminently fitted for the Gold Coast.]--a total of +sixty-eight ounces to twenty-five tons. + +After an hour's paddling we sighted a few canoes and surf-boats under a +raised clay-bank binding the stream on the left. This was Tumento +(Tomento), our destination; the word means 'won't go,' as the rock is +supposed to say to the water. The aspect of the Ancobra becomes gloomy and +menacing. The broad bed shrinks to a ditch, almost overshadowed by its +sombre walls of many-hued greens; and the dead tree-trunks of the channel, +ghastly white in the dull brown shade, look to the feverish imagination +like the skeleton hands and fingers of monstrous spectres outspread to bar +thoroughfare. + +We landed and walked a few yards to the settlement. A 'Steam-launch' +sounds grandiose, and so does a 'Great Central Depot'--seen on paper. And +touching this place I was told a tale. Some time ago two young French +employes, a doctor and an engineer, were sent up to the mines, and fell +victims to the magical influence of the name. Quoth Jules to Alphonse, 'My +friend, we will land; we will call a _fiacre_; we will drive to the local +Three Provincial Brothers; we will eat a succulent repast, and then for a +few happy hours we will forget Blackland and these ignoble blacks.' So +they toiled up the stiff and slippery slope, and found a scatter of +crate-huts crowning a bald head of yellow argil. Speechless with rage and +horror at the sight of the 'Depot,' they rushed headlong into the canoe, +returned without a moment's delay to Axim, and, finding a steamer in the +bay, incontinently went on board, flying the Dark Continent for ever. + +We housed ourselves in Messieurs Swanzy and Crocker's establishment at +Tumento. The climate appeared wholesome; the river brought with it a +breeze, and we were evidently entering the region of woods, between the +mangrove-swamps of the coast and the grass-lands of the interior. + +At Tumento I met, after some twenty years, Mr. Dawson, of Cape Coast +Castle. The last time it was at Dahoman Agbome, in company with the Rev. +Mr. Bernasko, who died (1872) of dropsy and heart-disease. He is now in +the employment of the Takwa, or French Company, and his local knowledge +and old experience had suggested working the mines to M. Bonnat. Some +forty years ago the English merchants of 'Cabo Corso' used to send their +people hereabouts to dig; and more recently Mr. Carter had spent, they +say, 4,000_l_. upon the works. He was followed by another roving +Englishman, who was not more successful. The liberation of pawns and other +anti-abolitionist 'fads' had so raised the wage-rate that the rich placers +were presently left to the natives. We exchanged reminiscences, and he at +once started down stream for Axim. + +As we were unable to work, Mr. Grant proceeded to inspect the concession +called 'Insimankao,' the Asamankao of M. Zimmermann. It is the name of the +village near which Sir Charles Macarthy was slain: our authorities +translated it 'I've got you,' as the poor man said to the gold, or the +cruel chief to the runaway serf. Mr. Dawson, who is uncle by marriage to +Mr. Grant, had also suggested this digging. Our good manager, now an adept +at prospecting, found the way very foul and the place very rich. It was +afterwards, as will be seen, visited by Mr. Oliver Pegler and lastly by +Cameron. + +Amongst the few new faces seen at Tumento were two 'Krambos,' Moslems and +writers of charms and talismans. A 'Patent Improved Metallic Book,' which +looked in strange company, contained their 'fetish' and apparently +composed their travelling kit. Both hailed from about Tinbukhtu, but their +Arabic was so imperfect that I could make nothing of their route. These +men acquire considerable authority amongst the pagan negroes, who expect +great things from their 'grigris.' They managed to find us some eggs when +no one else could. This Hibernian race of Gold Coast blacks had eaten or +sold all its hens, and had kept only the loud-crowing cocks. The presence +of these two youths convinced me that there will be a Mohammedan movement +towards the Gold Coast. A few years may see thousands of them, with +mosques by the dozen established upon the sea-board. The 'revival of +El-Islam' shows itself nowhere so remarkably as in Africa. + +At Tumento Cameron found himself growing rapidly worse. He suffered from +pains in the legs, and owned that even when crossing Africa during his +three years of wild life he remembered nothing more severe. In my own case +there was a severe tussle between Dr. Warburg and Fever-fiend. The attacks +had changed from a tertian to a quotidian, and every new paroxysm left me, +like the 'possessed' of Holy Writ after the expulsion of 'devils,' utterly +prostrate. During the three days' struggle I drained two bottles of +'Warburg.' The admirable drug won the victory, but it could not restore +sleep or appetite. + +Seeing how matters stood, and how easily bad might pass to worse, I +proposed the proceeding whereby a man lived to fight another day. We were +also falling short of ready money, and the tornadoes were becoming matters +of daily occurrence. After a long and anxious pow-wow Cameron accepted, +and it was determined to run down to the coast, and there collect health +and strength for a new departure. No sooner said than done. On March 8 we +left Tumento in our big canoe, passed the night at Riverside House, and +next evening were inhaling, not a whit too soon, the inspiriting +sea-whiffs of Axim. + +The rest of my tale is soon told. + +Cameron recovered health within a week, and resolved to go north again. +His object was to inspect for the second time the working mines about +Takwa, and to note their present state; also to make his observations and +to finish his map. He did not look in full vigour; and, knowing his +Caledonian tenacity of purpose, I made him promise not to run too much +risk by over-persistence. After a _diner d'Axim_ and discussing a +plum-pudding especially made for our Christmas by a fair and kind friend +at Trieste, he set out Ancobra-wards on March 16. He would have no Krumen; +so our seven fellows, who refused to take service in the Effuenta mine, +were paid off and shipped for 'we country.' The thirty hands ordered in +mid-January appeared in mid-March, and were made over to Mr. MacLennan. My +companion set out with faithful Joe, Mr. Dawson the stuffer, and his dog +Nero. I did not hear of him or from him till we met at Madeira. + +My case was different. I could not recover strength like my companion, who +is young and who has more of vital force to expend. This consideration +made me fearful of spoiling his work: a sick traveller in the jungle is a +terrible encumbrance. I therefore proposed to run south and to revisit my +old quarters, 'F.Po' and the Oil Rivers, in the B. and A. s.s. _Loanda_ +(Captain Brown), the same which would pick up my companion after his +return to Axim. + +Life on the coast was not unpleasant, despite the equinoctial gales which +broke on March 19 and blew hard till March 25. I had plenty of occupation +in working up my notes, and I was lucky enough to meet all the managers of +the working mines who were passing through Axim. From Messieurs Crocker +(Wasa), MacLennan (Effuenta), Creswick (Gold Coast Company), and Bowden +(Takwa [Footnote: Alias the African Gold Coast Company, whose shareholders +are French and English. It has lately combined with the Mine d'Or +d'Abowassu (Abosu), the capital being quoted at five millions of francs. +Thus the five working mines are reduced to four, while the 'Izrah' and +others are coming on (May 1882).]) I had thus an opportunity of gathering +much hearsay information, and was able to compare opinions which differed +widely enough. I also had long conversations with Mr. A. A. Robertson, +lately sent out as traffic-manager to the Izrah, and with Mr. Amondsen, +the Danish sailor, then _en route_ to the hapless Akankon mine. Mr. Paulus +Dahse, who was saved from a severe sickness by Dr. Roulston and by his +brother-in-law, Mr. Wulfken, eventually became my fellow-passenger to +Madeira, where I parted from him with regret. During long travel and a +residence of years in various parts of the Gold Coast he has collected a +large store of local knowledge, and he is most generous in parting with +his collection. + +But, when prepared to embark on board the _Loanda_, which was a week late, +my health again gave way, and I found that convalescence would be a long +affair. Madeira occurred to me as the most restful of places, and there I +determined to await my companion. The A.S.S. _Winnebah_ (Captain Hooper) +anchored at Axim on March 28; the opportunity was not to be lost, and on +the same evening we steamed north, regaining health and strength with +every breath. + +The A.S.S. _Winnebah_ could not be characterised as 'comfortable.' Mr. +Purser Denny did his best to make her an exception to the Starvation rule, +but even he could not work miracles. She is built for a riverboat, and her +main cabin is close to the forecastle. She was crowded with Kruboys, and +all her passengers were 'doubled up.' A full regiment of parrots was on +board, whose daily deaths averaged twenty to thirty. The birds being worth +ten shillings each, our engines were driven as they probably had never +been driven before, and the clacking of the safety-valve never ceased. + +The weather, however, was superb. We caught the north-east Trade a little +north of Cape Palmas, and kept it till near Grand Canary. On April 13, +greatly improved by the pleasant voyage and by complete repose, I rejoiced +once more in landing at the fair isle Madeira. + +And now _Cameronus loquitur_. + + + +CHAPTER XXII. + +TO INSIMANKAO AND THE BUTABUE RAPIDS. + +Leaving Axim on March 16, I slept at Kumprasi and remarked a great change +in the bar of the Ancobra River. During the dry season it had been +remarkably good, but now it began to change for the worse; and soon it +will become impassable for three or four days at a time. My surf-boat, +when coming across it, shipped three seas. On my return down the river +(April 15) the whole sand-bank to the west of the mouth had been washed +away, forming dangerous shoals; the sea was furiously breaking and +'burning,' as the old Dutch say, and the waves which entered the river +were so high that canoes were broken and boats were seriously damaged. + +I stored my goods in the surf-boat, and set out in our big canoe early +next morning. A string of dug-outs was next passed, loaded with +palm-kernels, maize, and bananas; it appeared as if they were all bound +for the market at Axim. I took specimens of swish and stone from 'Ross's +Hill.' The top soil showed good signs of gold, and the grains were +tolerably coarse. Here a floating power-engine would soon bare the reefs +and warp up the swamp. Messieurs Allan and Plisson, who were floating down +in a surf-boat, gave me the news that the steam-launch _Effuenta_ had at +last succumbed in the struggle for life. + +I landed at Akromasi, a village where the true bamboo-cane grows, and +found the soil to be a grey sandy clay; there were many 'women's washings' +near the settlement. Shortly before reaching the Ahenia River we saw the +landing-place for the valuable 'Apatim concession.' They told me on +enquiry that the stream is deep and has been followed up in a surf-boat +for a mile or two. It may therefore prove of use to Mr. Irvine's property, +Apatim. + +At half-past five that evening I reached Akankon, and slept well at +'Riverside House.' Mr. Morris had begun levelling the ground and building +new quarters for general use. I gave him some slips of bamboo and roots of +Bahama-grass, as that planted had grown so well. + +Next morning we got under way early (6.50) and proceeded up the river. The +canoe-men, seeing pots of palm-wine on the banks, insisted upon landing to +slake their eternal thirst. The mode in which the liquor is sold shows a +trustfulness on the part of the seller which may result from firm belief +in his 'fetish.' Any passer-by can drink wine _a discretion_, and is +expected to put the price in a calabash standing hard by. Beyond the +Yengeni River I saw for the first and only time purple clay-slate +overlying quartz. Collecting here and there specimens of geology, and +suffering much from the sun, for I still was slightly feverish, I reached +the 'great central depot' at 4 P.M. + +Tumento was found by observation to lie in N. lat. 4ş 12' 20" and in W. +long. (Gr.) 2ş 12' 25". Consequently it is only eighteen direct +geographical miles from the sea, the mouth of the Ancobra being in W. lat. +2ş 54'. Some make the distance thirty and others sixty miles. The latter +figure would apply only by doubling the windings of the bed. + +This ascent of the river convinced me more than ever that Enframadie is +the proper terminus of its navigation. I passed the next day at Tumento, +which proved to be only half the distance usually supposed along the +Ancobra bed from its mouth. The time was spent mainly in resting and +doctoring myself. At night the rats, holding high carnival, kept me awake +till 3 A.M.; and I heard shots being continually fired from a native mine +whose position was unknown. The natives now know how to bore and blast; +consequently thefts of powder, drills, and fuses become every day more +common. My first visit (March 20) was to the Insimankao concession. I left +the surf-boat behind, and put my luggage into small canoes hired at +Tumento, myself proceeding in the large canoe. We shoved off from the +beach at 8.50 A.M. The Ancobra had now, after the late rains, a fair +current instead of being almost dead water; otherwise it maintained the +same appearance. The banks are conglomerate, grey clay and slate; gravel, +sand, shingle, and pebbles of reddish quartz, bedded in earth of the same +colour, succeeding one another in ever-varying succession. Only two reefs, +neither of them important, projected from the sides. + +After an hour and a half paddling we reached the Fura, which I should call +a creek; it is not out of the mangrove-region. The bed is set in high, +steep banks submerged during the rains; and the narrowness of the mouth, +compared with the upper part, made it run, after the late showers, into +the Ancobra like a mill-race. In fact, the paddlers were compelled to +track in order to make headway. After ten minutes (=200 yards) we reached +a landing-place, all jungle with rotting vegetation below. I do not think +that as a waterway the Fura Creek can be made of any practical use; but it +will be very valuable for 'hydraulicking.' Canoes and small surf-boats may +run down it at certain seasons, but the flow is too fast and the bed is +too full of snags and sawyers to be easily ascended. + +At the landing-place I mounted my hammock and struck the path which runs +over level ground pretty thick with second-growth. The chief Bimfu, who +met me at Tumento, had broken his promise to guide me, and had neglected +to clear the way. On a largish creek which was nearly dry I saw a number +of 'women's washings.' Then we passed on the right a hillock seventy to +eighty feet high, where quartz showed in detached and weathered blocks. +Beyond it were native shafts striking the auriferous drift at a depth of +eight to ten feet. A few yards further on the usual washings showed that +the top soil is also worth working. + +Another half-hour brought us to about a dozen native shafts in the usual +chimney shape. They were quite new and had been temporarily left on +account of the rise of the water, which was here twenty-four feet below +the surface. The top soil is of sandy clay, and the gold-containing +drifts, varying in thickness, they told me, from two to four feet, +consisted of quartz pebbles bedded in red loam. The general look of the +stratum and the country suggested an old lagoon. + +An hour and a half of hammock brought me from the landing-place of the +Fura Creek to the village of Insimankao. Rain was falling heavily and +prevented all attempts at observation. The settlement is the usual group +of swish and bamboo box-huts nestling in the bush. A small clean +bird-cage, divided into two compartments, with standing bedstead, was +assigned to me. Next morning I walked to the Insimankao mine by a path +leading along, and in places touching, the bank of the Fura Creek, which +runs through the whole property. After thirty-three minutes we reached the +'marked tree.' Here the land begins to rise and forms the Insimankao Hill, +whose trend is to north-north-east. Mr. Walker calls it Etia-Kaah, or +Echia-Karah, meaning 'when you hear (of its fame) you will come.' It is +the usual mound of red clay, fairly wooded, and about 150 feet high; the +creek runs about 100 yards west of the pits. The reefs seemed to be almost +vertical, with a strike to the north-north-east; and the walls showed +slate, iron-oxide, and decomposed quartz. The main reef [Footnote: Mr. O. +Pegler (A.R.S.M.) describes it as a 'very powerful reef outcropping boldly +from a hill at a short distance from the native village, the strike being +north-north-east to south-south-west, and the vein having a great +inclination. At the crest of the hill it presents a massive appearance, +and is many feet in width--in some places between twenty and thirty feet. +This diminishes towards the native pits, and there the vein diverges into +two portions, both presenting a decomposed appearance, the casing on both +foot and hanging wall having a highly talcose character.' This engineer +also washed gold specks from the loose soil. Finally, he notes that the +massive quartz-outcrop is homogeneous and crystalline, giving only traces +of gold, but that the stone improves rapidly with depth.] was from eight +to ten feet thick, and I believe that there are other and parallel +formations. But the ground is very complicated, and for proper study I +should have required borings and cross-cuts. + +There were two big rough pits called shafts. I descended into the deeper +one, which was fourteen to fifteen feet below ground. The walls would +repay washing on a large scale; and the look of the top soil reminded me +of the descriptions of old California and Australia when there were rushes +of miners to the gold-fields, carrying for all machinery a pick, a pan, +and a tin 'billy.' + +The Insimankao concession contains 1,000 fathoms square; the measurements +being taken from a 'marked tree' on the north-western slope of the hill +with the long name. The position is N. lat. 5ş 18' 15" and the long. W. +(Gr.) 2ş 14' 03". West of the centre the Fura Creek receives a small +tributary. Mr. Walker took fair samples from the well-defined reef and the +outcropping boulders, whose strike is from north-north-east to +south-south-west. He notes that the land Egwira, which lies between Wasa +and Aowin, was long famous for its mining-industry, and that it appears in +old maps as a 'Republick rich in gold.' We heard of the Abenje mine on the +same reef, four to five miles east of Insimankao; and he declares that it +has been abandoned because the population is too scanty. + +I left this mining property convinced that working it will pay well. The +only thing to be guarded against is overlapping the French concession of +Mankuma, which lies immediately to the east. + +From the mine I walked back to the village, breakfasted, and returned in +the canoes to the sluice-like mouth of the Fura Greek. I then ascended the +Ancobra, in order to inspect the Butabue rapids, said to be the end of +canoe-navigation. We passed on the right a reef and a shallow of +conglomerate, washed out of the banks and forming a race; there is another +reef with its rip at Aroasu. In the early part of the afternoon we got to +the village of Ebiasu, which means 'not dark.' Here the equinoctial +showers began to fall heavily, and I was again obliged to sleep without +observations. The village is built upon a steep bank of yellow clay, with +rich red oxides; it stands forty feet above the present level, and yet at +times it is flooded out. + +Leaving Ebiasu next morning, I found the banks of sand, clay, and small +pebbles beginning to shelve. We passed over slaty rocks in the bed; and +the depth of water was often not more than three feet. Women's washings +were seen on the left bank, and the river had risen after they had been +worked. We could not approach them on account of the reefs and the +current. The opposite bank, about five minutes further up, is of soft +sandstone; and here a native tunnel of forty to fifty feet had been run in +from the river to communicate with a shaft. My men were nervous about +leopards, and I had to encourage them by firing my rifle into the hole. +The normal formation continued, and here the land is evidently built by +the river; there are few hills, and the present direction of the bed has +been determined by the rocks and reefs, the outliers of the old true +coast. These features may have been lower than they are now, and owe their +present elevation to upheaval. Immature conglomerate--that is, a pudding +of pebbles and hardened clay--seems to have been deposited in the +synclinal curve of the bed-rock, principally slate. Overlying both are the +top soil and the sands, the latter often resembling the washed out +tailings of stamped rock. + +Passing the village Abanfokru, I found myself amongst the extensive +concessions of the French, who have taken the alluvial grounds for washing +and working. M. Bonnat's map gives the approximate positions and +dimensions; and the several sites are laid down by M. Dahse. I shall have +more to say about this section on my return. + +Navigation now becomes more intricate and difficult, owing to rocks and +reefs, rips and rapids. A large stony holm about mid-stream is called +Eduasim, meaning 'thief in river.' I need not repeat from my map the names +of the unimportant settlements. At the mouth of the Abonsa the bed widens +to nearly double, and the north-easterly direction shifts to due north. +This great drain, falling into the left bank, lies between five and six +miles above the Fura Creek. I shall have more to say about it when +describing my descent. Two miles further north brought us to the beginning +of the rapids, which apparently end the boat-navigation. The only canoes +are used for ferrying; I saw no water-traffic, and there were no longer +any fish-weirs. Moreover, the country has been deserted, I was told, since +the arrival of strangers. The natives have probably been treated with +little consideration. A quarter of an hour's hauling, all hands being +applied to the canoe, took us about fifty yards over the Impayim rapid, +whose fall is from four to five feet deep. Immediately after the Butabue +influent on the right bank the bed bends abruptly east, and we reached the +far-famed rapids of that name. Here the whole surface, as far up as the +eye can see, is a mass of rocks and of broken, surging water. The +vegetation of the banks, bound together by creepers, llianas, and rattans, +is peculiarly fine. I landed upon one of the rocks, sketched the Butabue, +whose name none could explain, and returned down stream to the 'great +central Depot,' Tumento. + +I can say little about the River Ancobra above the rapids, except that it +resumes its course from the north-north-east and the north, apparently +guided by the hills. The sources are now only a few miles distant, but the +stream is unnavigable, and they must be reached on foot. The late M. +Bonnat walked up by a hunter's path, now killed out, to the ruins of Bush +Castle, which Jeekel calls Fort Ruyghaver. He there secured possession of +the rich Asaman mines, which the work was intended to defend. There is +some fetish there, and the place is known as the burial-ground of the +kings. I was also told that four or five marches off a _cache_ of +treasure, described to be large, had been made during the Ashanti-Gyaman +war, and had been defended by the usual superstitions. Fetish may have +lost much of its power on the coast; in the interior, however, it is still +strong, and few white men live long after being placed under its ban. + + + +CHAPTER XXIII. + +TO EFFUENTA, CROCKERVILLE, AND THE AJI BIPA HILL. + +At Tumento the halt of a day (March 22) was necessary in order to hire +carriers and get ready for the march eastward. Here, too, I washed sundry +specimens of soft earth from various parts of the river-banks, finding +colour of gold in all except the grey clay. Our Mohammedan friends were +there; the eldest called upon me and was exceedingly civil, besides being +to a certain extent useful. For the hire of a shilling and two cakes of +Cavendish he found me eggs in a village some three miles off, and he ended +by writing me a 'safy,' which would bring me good luck in all my +undertakings. It consists of the usual Koranic quotations in black, and of +magic numbers in pink, ink. + +Dr. Roulston and Mr. Higgins, the new District Commissioner for Takwa, +entered Tumento about 3 P.M. The carriers hired in addition to my +canoe-men would now be wanted, said the cunning old chief, for the +'Government man,' with whom he wished to stand well. As the porters had +received an advance of pay I objected to this proceeding. The fresh +arrivals had to find other hands, and were not very successful in the +search. Their detachment of twenty-five Haussa soldiers, who had escorted +to the coast Dr. Duke, the acting commissioner lately invalided, were sent +abroad in all directions to act press-gang, and the natural lawlessness of +the race came out strong. The force is injured by enlisting 'Haussas' who +are not Haussa at all; merely semi-savage and half-pagan slaves. On +detached duty they get quite out of hand; and they by no means serve to +make our Government popular. By the rules of the force they should never +be absent from head-quarters for more than six months; their transport +costs next to nothing, as they march by bush-paths. And yet they are kept +for years on outpost-duty, where it would require a Glover to discipline +them and to make them steady soldiers. They live by plunder. A private on +a shilling a day will eat three fowls, each worth 9_d_. to 10_d_., and +drink any taken amount of palm-wine. There are no means of punishment, or +even of securing a criminal; the colony cannot afford irons or handcuffs; +there is no prison, and a Haussa, placed under arrest in a bamboo-hut, +cuts his way out as easily as a rat from a bird-cage. + +One of these men was accused of murdering a woman in one of the villages +on the way. His comrades brought in husbands, wives, and children +indiscriminately, not sparing even the chiefs. Bimfu, of Insimankao, was +among the number; next morning, however, he threw his pack, bolted to the +bush, and eventually reported his grievances to Axim. The second headman +of Tumento, when pressed, managed to secure a very small load. But as +payment is by weight, 6_d_. per 10 lbs. from the river to Effuenta, and no +subsistence is allowed, his gains were small in proportion; he received +for three days only 9_d_., the ordinary value of porter's rations. + +Next day (March 23) we left Tumento at 7.30 A.M. The caravan consisted of +thirty-two men, all told--canoe-men from Axim, Tumento bearers, boatswain, +and my three body-servants. All were under the command of Joe the +Indefatigable, who formed a kind of body-guard of gun-carriers out of the +porters that carried the lightest packs. Mr. Dawson assisted me in +collecting; Paul prepared to shoulder a bed, and the boatswain was ordered +to catch butterflies. The cries of 'batli,' 'basky,' and 'bokkus' (bottle, +basket, and box) continually broke the silence of the bush and gladdened +the collector's ears. I was still able to dispense with the hammock. + +In the first few minutes the path trends southwards; it then assumes and +keeps an easterly direction. Here is a water-parting: the many little +beds, mostly full of water, flow either north towards the Abonsa or south +and westwards to the Ancobra. They are divided by detached hills, or +rather oblong mounds, of the same formation as the beds; quartz, gravel, +and red clay, all disposed in the usual direction. Women's washings were +seen everywhere along the road, and in some places oozings of iron from +the soil heavily charged the streamlets. Some of the quartz-boulders were +coloured outside like porphyry by the oxide. About three-quarters of the +way from Tumento to Apankru is a hill rich in outcrops of quartz. I +believe it to be French property. + +These rises and falls led over 7-1/2 direct geographical miles, usually +done in three hours, to Apankru, a second 'great central Depot.' The +village lies on the right bank of the Abonsa River, here some forty feet +high. It is composed almost entirely of the store-houses of the several +companies--(Gold Coast) Effuenta, and Swanzy's (English), the African Gold +Coast and Mines d'Or d'Aboassu [Footnote: At first I supposed the word to +be Abo-Wasa, or Stones of Wasa: it is simply Abosu, meaning 'on the +rock.'] (French). Only the latter use the Abonsa for transport purposes--I +think very unwisely. My descent of the stream will show all its dangers of +snags, rapids, and heavy currents. Here it rises high during the floods, +and sometimes it swamps the lower courtyards. + +I put up at Mr. Crocker's establishment, which was, as usual, nice and +clean; and the officials went on to Effuenta. The native clerk took good +care of me, probably moved thereto by Mr. Joe, who addressed him, 'Here, +gib me key; I want house for _my_ master!' During the evening, in the +intervals of heavy rain, I obtained a latitude by Castor. Apankru lies in +north latitude 5ş 13' 55", and its longitude (by calculation) is 0ş 20' 6" +west. + +The next morning (March 24) was dark and threatening. At 6.30 A.M. we +struck into the path, a mere bush-track, the corduroys and bridges made by +the Swanzy house having completely disappeared. This want of public +feeling, of 'solidarity,' amongst the several mining companies should be +remedied with a strong hand. These men seem not to know that rivalry may +be good in buying palm-oil, but is the wrong thing in mining. Such a +jealousy assisted in making the Spanish proverb 'A silver mine brings +wretchedness; a gold mine brings ruin.' Even in England I have met with +unwise directors who told me, 'Oh, you must not say that, or people will +prefer such and such a mine.' But, speaking generally, employers are aware +that unity of interest should produce solidarity of action. The local +employes like to breed divisions, in order to increase their own +importance. This should be put down with a strong hand; and all should +learn the lesson that what benefits one mine benefits all. Many of the +little streams run between steep banks, and in the rainy season mud and +water combine to make the line impracticable. Yet there is nothing to +stand in the way of a cheap tram; and perhaps this would cost less and +keep better than a metalled road. The twisting of the track, 'without +rhyme or reason,' reminded me of the snakiest paths in Central Africa. Our +course, as the map shows, was in every quadrant of the compass except the +south-western. + +On our left or north ran the Aunabe, M. Dahse's Ahunabe, [Footnote: M. +Dahse's paper, _Die Goldkueste_ (Geog. Soc. of Bremen, vol. ii., 1882), has +been ably translated by Mr. H. Bruce Walker, jun., of the India Store +Depot.] the northern fork of the Abonsa, which falls into the right bank +below Apankru. It has a fine assortment of mixed rapids, which show well +during the floods. Hills of the usual quartz blocks, gravels, sand, and +clay lead, after 1 hr. 40 min. walking and collecting, at the rate of two +geographical miles an hour, to Mr. Crocker's second set of huts. They were +built on a level for shelter and resting-places before Apankru was in +existence, and were baptised 'Sierra Leone' by emigrants from the white +man's grave and the black man's Garden of Eden. + +Beyond this settlement is a fine quartz hill, round the northern edge of +which the path winds to the little Kwansakru. This is a woman's village, +where the wives of chiefs who have mining-rights, accompanied by their +slaves, are stationed, to pan gold for their lazy husbands. In this way +may have arisen the vulgar African story of Amazon settlements. Messieurs +Zweifel and Moustier [Footnote: _Voyage_, &c., p. 115.] were told by a +Kissi man that twelve marches behind their country is a large town called +Nahalo, occupied only by the weaker sex. A man showing himself in the +streets, or met on the road, is at once put to death; however, some of the +softer-hearted have kept them prisoners, and the result may easily be +divined. All the male issue is killed and only the girls are kept. + +Many large 'women's washings' of old date give us a hint how the country +should be worked. All along the line of the Aunabe white sands, the +tailings of natural sluices, have been deposited; the black sand sinking +by its own weight. I was unable to find out the extent of the French +concessions, and look forward to the coming day of compulsory definition +of boundaries and registration in Government offices. These grants are +mingled in inextricable confusion with those secured by 'Surgeon-Major Dr. +James Africanus Beale Horton, Esq.' + +Soon after Kwansakru we exchanged the ordinary path for a mere thread in +the bush, leading to the southern end of Tebribi Hill. The name, according +to Mr. Sam, means 'when you hear, it shakes,' signifying that the thunder +reverberates from the heights owing to its steep side and gives it a +tremulous motion. This abrupt, cliff-like side is the western, where the +schistose gneiss is exposed for a thickness of 60 feet and more: the stone +is talcose, puddinged in places with quartz pebbles, and everywhere +showing laminations of black sand. The long oval mound of red clay, +overgrown with trees, and rising 295 feet above sea-level, is all +auriferous; but there are placers richer than their neighbours. Tebribi +was the favourite washing-ground of the Apinto Wasas; but the old shafts +were all neglected after the Dutch left, and no deep sinking was known +within the memory of man until the last twelve years. I passed a pit on +the western flank; the winch had been removed, and my people found it +impracticable: we descended to it by cut steps and followed a cornice, +mainly artificial, for a short distance to where its mouth opened. This +hole had been sunk 70 to 80 feet deep in the talcose stone; and it would +have been far easier and better to have driven galleries and adits into +the face of the rock. + +We took fourteen minutes to clamber up the stiff side in the pelting rain, +with a tornado making ready to break. Ten minutes more, along the level, +and a total of three hours, placed us at Mr. Crocker's Bellevue House. I +had been asked to baptise it, and gave the name after a place in Sevenoaks +which overlooks the wooded expanse of the Kentish weald. The place being +locked up, we at once committed burglary; I occupied one of the two +boarded bedrooms with plank walls, and my men established themselves in +the broad and well-thatched verandah. When the view cleared we saw various +outliers of hill, all running nearly parallel and striking north with more +or less easting; the temperature was delightful, and between the showers +the breezes were most refreshing. At night a persistent rain set in and +ruined all chance of getting sights. + +The next morning broke dull and grey with curtains of smoky fog and mist +hanging to the hills; and the heavy wet made the paths greasy and +slippery. Leaving Bellevue House, we walked along the whole length of the +ridge in half an hour; and, descending the north-western slope, we struck +the main thoroughfare--such as it is. Reaching the level, we found more +'women's washings,' and the highly auriferous ground looked as if made for +the purpose of hydraulic mining. + +Another half-hour along the lower flat led us to Burnettville, Crocker's +_Ruhe_ No. 3. It is a large native-built house fronted by long narrow +quarters for negroes on the other side of the road. The path crossed +several streamlets trending north to the Aunabe, and a bad mud which had +seen corduroy in its better days. Blocks of quartz and slate protruded +between the patches of bog. We then traversed fairly undulating and +well-wooded ground, clay-stone coated with oxide of iron; we crossed +another small stream flowing northwards, and we began the ascent leading +to 'Government House, Takwa.' It is also known as Mount Pleasant, Prospect +Mount, and Vinegar Hill. + +The site facing the Effuenta mine is the summit of a long thin line about +275 feet high. This queer specimen of official head-quarters was built by +the united genius of the owners of the ground, Mr. Commissioner Cascaden +and Dr. Duke. As before said the really comfortable house of boarding has +been bequeathed to the white ants at Axim by the Government of the Golden +Land, too poor to pay transport. Commissioner and doctor receive no +house-allowance, and according to popular rumour, which is probably +untrue, were graciously told that they might pig in a native hut in or +about Takwa. Consequently they built this place and charge a heavy rent +for it. + +Government House is a large parallelogram of bamboo. The roof is an +intricate mass of branches and tree-trunks, with a pitch so flat that it +admits every shower. Mr. Higgins was at once obliged to expend +10_l_.-12_l_. in removing and restoring the house-cover. Under it are +built two separate and independent squares of wattle with plank floors +raised a foot or so off the ground; these dull and dismal holes, which +have doors but no windows, serve as sleeping-places. The rest of the +interior goes by the name of a sitting-room. The outer walls are +whitewashed on both sides, and between them and the two wattle squares is +a space of 6 to 8 feet, adding to the disproportionate appearance of the +interior. Had it been divided off in the usual way the tenement would have +been much more comfortable. There is a scatter of ragged huts, grandiosely +designated as the barracks, on the level space where the Haussas parade. +When Mr. Higgins was making himself water-tight, these lazy loons had the +impudence to ask that he would either have their lines mended or order new +ones to be built. I would have made them throw down their ramshackle +cabins, knock up decent huts, and keep them in good order. + +Leaving Government House, I descended the steep incline of Vinegar Hill, +passed through the little Esanuma village, and crossed two streams flowing +south. One is easily forded; the eastern has a corduroy bridge 176 ft. +long, built to clear the muds on either side. I shall call this double +water the Takwa rivulet, and shall have more to say about it on my return. + +Another steep ascent placed me at the Effuenta establishment. I was now +paying my second visit to the far-famed Takwa Ridge. It is a long line +running parallel with Vinegar Hill, but instead of being regular, like its +neighbour, it is broken into a series of small crests looking on the map +like vertebrae; these heights being parted by secondary valleys, some of +which descend almost to the level of the flowing water. Westward the +hog's-back is bounded by the Takwa rivulet, rising in the northern part of +the valley. Eastwards there is a corresponding feature called by the +English 'Quartz Creek:' it breaks through the ridge in the southern +section of the Effuenta property and unites with the Takwa. My aneroid +showed the height of the crest to be 260 feet above sea-level, and about +160 above the valley. Mr. Wyatt has raised it to 1,400 feet--a curious +miscalculation. + +At Effuenta I found Mr. MacLennan, the manager whom we last met at Axim. +Owing to the drowned-out state of 'Government House' he had given +hospitality to Messieurs Higgins and Roulston, and I could not prevent his +leaving his own sleeping-room for my better accommodation. I spent two +days with him inspecting the mine and working up my notes; during this +time Mr. Bowden, of Takwa, and Mr. Ex-missionary Dawson passed through the +station; and I was unfortunate in missing the former. + +'Effuenta House' is a long narrow tenement of bamboo and thatch, divided +into six or seven rooms, and built upon a platform of stone and swish +raised seven feet off the ground. All the chambers open upon a broad +verandah, which shades the platform. The inmate was talking of rebuilding, +as the older parts were beginning to decay. He had just set up in his +'compound' two single-room bamboo houses, with plank floors raised four +feet off the ground; these were intended to lodge the European staff. +Other bamboo huts form the offices and the stores. The Kru quarters are at +the western base of the hill; a few hands, however, live in the two little +villages upon the Takwa rivulet. The Sierra Leone and Akra artificers +occupy their own hamlet between the Kru lines and the stamps. Last year +there was a garden with a small rice-field, but everything was stolen as +soon as it was fit to gather. + +Next morning Mr. MacLennan led me to the diggings. This concession, which +is the southernmost but one upon the Takwa ridge, contains one thousand by +two thousand fathoms; and desultory work began in 1880. The rock, a +talcose gneiss, all laden with gold, runs along the whole length of the +hill, striking, as usual, north 6ş east (true). In places it forms a +basset, or outcrop, cresting the summit; and the eastern flank is cliffy, +like that of the Tebribi. To get at the ore three shafts have been sunk on +the western slope of the ridge just below the highest part, and a passage +is being driven to connect the three. A rise for ventilation, and for +sending down the stone, connects this upper gallery with a lower one; and +the latter is being pushed forward to unite the three tunnels pierced +horizontally near the foot of the hill, at right angles to the lode. There +is also a fourth tunnel below the manager's house, which will be joined on +to the others. The three tunnels open westward upon a tramway, along which +the ore is carried to the stamps. I judged the output already made to be +considerable, but could not make an estimate, as it was heaped up in +different places. + +The stamp-mill, lying to the extreme north of the actual workings, is +supplied with water by a leat from the eastern Takwa rivulet. The twelve +head of stamps, on Appleby's 'gravitation system,' are driven by a +Belleville boiler and engine; this has the merit of being portable and the +demerit of varying in effective power, owing to the smallness of the +steam-chest. The battery behaves satisfactorily; only the pump, which is +worked by the cam-shaft, wants power to supply the whole dozen; +consequently another and independent pump has been ordered. Krumen, who +will never, I think, make good mine-workmen, are constantly employed in +washing the blankets as soon as they are charged; and the resulting black +sand is carried to the washing-house to be panned, or rather calabashed, +by native women. In time we shall doubtless see concentrating bundles and +amalgamating barrels. + +The three iron-framed stamp-boxes discharge their sludge into two parallel +mercury- or amalgam-boxes, which Mr. Appleby declares will arrest 75 to 80 +per cent. of free gold. It then passes on to the distributing table, the +flow to the strakes being regulated by small sluices. Of the latter there +is one to each width of green baize or of mining-cloth made for the +purpose. The overflow of the sluices runs into a large tailing-tank of +board-work, with holes and plugs at different levels to tap the contents. +These tailings are also washed by women. + +Finally, the mercury is squeezed through leathers and the hard amalgam is +sent for treatment to England. Retorting is not practised at present in +any of the mines. The only reduction-gear belongs to the Gold Coast Mining +Company; and some time must elapse before it is ready for use. My +discovery of native cinnabar will then prove valuable. + +The Effuenta can now bring to bank, with sufficient hands, at least a +hundred tons a day of good paying ore; whereas the stamps can crush at +most one-tenth. When this section of the lode, about 200 fathoms, shall be +worked, there will still be the balance of 1,000. But even this fifth of +the property will supply material for years. The proportion of gold +greatly varies, and I should not like to hazard a conjecture as to +average, but an ounce and a half or two ounces will not be above the mark. + +At present the manager works under the difficulty of wanting European +assistants. His mining-engineer and one mechanic lately left him to return +home; and he has only a white book-keeper, an English working-miner, and a +mechanic, besides a man who made his way from the coast on foot, and who +is now doing good, honest work. The progress made by Mr. MacLennan, during +his ten months of charge, has been most creditable. He has literally +opened the mine, the works of which were begun by M. Dahse. He has +personally supervised the transport and erection of all the machinery; and +at present, in addition to the ordinary managerial routine, he has to act +as chief of each and every department. Owing to his brave exertions the +future of the Effuenta mine is very promising: it will teach those to come +'how to do it,' in contrast with another establishment which is the best +guide 'how _not_ to do it.' If the Board prove itself efficient, this +property will soon pay a dividend. But half-hearted measures will go far +to stultify the able and energetic work I found on the spot. [Footnote: +This forecast has been unexpectedly verified with the least possible +delay. Perfect communication has been established between the shafts and +levels; and the mine can now (October 1882) turn out 100 tons a day at +five shillings. But imperfect pumps have been sent out, and the result is +a highly regretable block. Of the value of the mine there can be no +doubt.] + +The northern extremity of the Takwa ridge, whose length may be +nine to ten miles, remains unappropriated, as far as can be known. The +furthest concession has been made, I am told, to Mr. Creswick. South of +the section in question lies a property now in the hands of the late M. +Bonnat's executors: the grant was given to him as a wedding-present by his +friends, the chiefs. Report says that from this part of the lode, which is +riddled with native pits, came some of the specimens that floated the G. +C. M. Company. Succeeds in due order the African Gold Coast Company, +French and English, which was brought out in 1878. It is popularly and +locally known as the Takwa (not 'Tarcquah') mine, from the large native +village which infests its grounds. I have described the Effuenta, its +southern neighbour. Beyond this again is a strip belonging to the +Franco-English Company; and, lastly, at the southern butt-end, divided by +a break from the main ridge, lies the 'Tamsoo-Mewoosoo mines of Wassaw.' +The latter has lately been 'companyed,' under the name of the 'Tacquah +Gold Mines Company,' by Dr. J. A. B. Horton and Mr. Ferdinand Fitzgerald, +of the famous 'African Times.' When its directors inform us that 'twenty +ounces of gold lately arrived from a neighbouring mine, the produce of +stamping of twenty-five tons of ore, similar to that of Tamsoo-Mewoosoo,' +they may not have been aware that the produce in question was worked from +the alluvial drift discovered, about the end May 1881, in the +north-western corner of the Swanzy estates. This drift has no connection +with the Takwa ridge-lodes. + +After morning tea on March 28 I bade a temporary adieu to my most +hospitable host, and walked along the ridge-crest to the establishment of +the Franco-English or African Gold Coast Company. Here I found only one +person, Dr. Burke, an independent practitioner, who is allowed lodging, +but not board. M. Haillot, of Paris, formerly accountant and book-keeper, +was in temporary charge of this mine and of Abosu during Mr. Bowden's +absence. I shall give further detail on my return march. Passing through +the spirit-reeking Takwa village, where nearly every hovel is a 'shebeen,' +I walked along the valley separating the ridge from its western neighbour, +Vinegar Hill, and in half an hour entered the huts belonging to the Gold +Coast Mining Company. [Footnote: These gentlemen are still (October 1882) +doing hard and successful work at the mines.] Here I breakfasted with the +brothers Gowan, who had been left in charge by Mr. Creswick. My notes on +this establishment must also be reserved for a future page. + +Twenty-five minutes' walking brought me to where the main road, a mere +bush-path, strikes across a gully separating two crests of the Takwa +ridge. Then came a good stretch of level ground, composed of sand and +gravel of stained quartz, clothed with the ordinary second-growth. When +this ended I passed over the northern heads of two small _buttes_ which +lie unconformably; the direction of their main axes lies north-north-west, +whereas all their neighbours trend to the north-north-east. The climb was +followed by a second level, bounded on the left, or north, by the Abo Yao +Hill, the _emplacement_ of the 'Mines d'Or d'Aboassu.' Two branch paths +lead up to it from the main line of road. Near the western is a place +chosen as a cemetery for Europeans; as usual it is neglected and overgrown +with bush. + +Presently I arrived at the village of Abosu, a walk of about two hours +from the Takwa mine. Ten months ago it contained forty to fifty head of +negroes; now it may number 3,000, although the May emigration had begun, +when the workmen return to their homes, being unable to labour in the +flooded flats. There was the hum of a busy, buzzing crowd, sinking pits +and shafts, some in the very streets and outside their own doors. This +alluvial bed must be one of the richest in the country; and it is wholly +native property under King Angu, of Apinto. There is little to describe in +the village; every hut is a kind of store, where the most poisonous of +intoxicants, the stinkingest of pomatum, and the gaudiest of +pocket-handkerchiefs are offered as the prizes for striking gold. There +are also a few goldsmiths' shops, where the precious metal is adulterated +and converted to coarse, rude ornaments. The people are able 'fences,' and +powder, fuses, and mining-tools easily melt into strong waters. Hence +Abosu is a Paradise to the Fanti police and to the Haussa garrison of +Takwa. + +I looked about Abosu to prospect the peculiarities of the place, where the +Sierra Leonite and the Cape Coast Anglo-nigger were conspicuous for +'cheek' and general offensiveness. These ignoble beings did not spare even +poor Nero; they blatantly wondered what business I had to bring such a big +brute in order to frighten the people. Resuming my way along the flat by a +winding path, I came upon a model bit of corduroying over a bad marsh, +crossed the bridge, and suddenly sighted Mr. F. F. Crocker's coffee-mill +stamping-battery. It lies at the south-western end of a _butte_, one of a +series disposed in parallel ranges and trending in the usual direction. +All have quartz-reefs buried in red clay, and are well wooded, with here +and there small clearings. The names are modern--Crocker's Reef to the +east, Sam's Reef, and so forth. + +Then I passed an admirably appointed saw-mill. At this distance from the +coast, where transport costs 24_l._ to 26_l._ a ton, carpenter's work must +be done upon the spot. A wide, clean road, metalled with gravel, and in +places bordered by pine-apples, led to store-houses of bamboo and thatch, +built on either side of the way. After walking from Effuenta seven and a +half geographical miles in three hours and forty-five minutes, I reached +the establishment known as Crockerville. It dates from 1879, and in 1880 +it forwarded its first remittance of 11_l._ 10_s._ to England. The village +was laid out under the superintendence of Mr. Sam, the ablest native +employe it has ever been my fortune to meet. He is the same who, when +District-commissioner of Axim, laid out the town and planted the +street-avenues. In conversation with me he bitterly derided the native +association formed at Cape Coast Castle for obtaining concessions and for +selling them to the benighted white man. He resolved not to put his money +in a business where all would be at loggerheads within six months unless +controlled by an European. + +The houses are bamboo on stone platforms. One block is occupied by the +owner, and a parallel building lodges Mr. Sam and his wife, the two being +connected by an open dining-hall. The kitchen and offices lie to the north +and east. Further west are quarters for European miners, and others again +for Mr. Turner, now acting manager, and his white clerk. Furthest removed +are the black quarters, the huts forming a street. + +Crockerville at present is decidedly short of hands. The number on the +books, all told, black and white, is only sixty-two: when the whole +property comes to be worked, divided and sub-divided, it will require +between a thousand and fifteen hundred. The hands are mostly country +people, including a few gangs employed to sink shafts. One gang lately +deserted, for the following reason. Two men were below charging the shots +from a heap of loose powder, whilst their friends overhead were quietly +smoking their pipes. A 'fire-'tick,' thrown across the shaft, burnt a +fellow's fingers, and he at once dropped it upon his brethren underground; +they were badly scorched, and none of the gang has been seen since. I +mention this accident as proving how difficult it is to manage the black +miner. The strictest regulations are issued to prevent the fatuous nigger +killing himself, but all in vain: he is worse, if possible, than his white +_confrere_. If I had the direction all the powder-work should be done by +responsible Europeans. I would fire by electricity, the battery remaining +in the manager's hands, and no native should be trusted with explosives. + +Here I fell amongst old acquaintances, and was only too glad to remain +with them between Friday and Thursday. Mr. Turner gave me one of his +bed-rooms, and Mr. Crocker's sitting-room was always open by day. We +messed together, clerks, mechanics, and all, in the open dining-hall: this +is Mr. Crocker's plan, and I think it by far the best. The master's eye +preserves decorum, and his presence prevents unreasonable complaints about +rations. The French allow each European employe 4_s. _9_d._ a day for +food and hire of servants, and attempt most unfairly to profit by the sale +of provisions and wines. The consequence is that everything is disjointed +and uncomfortable: some starve themselves to save money; others overdrink +themselves because meat is scarce; and all complain that the sum which +would suffice for many is insufficient for one. + +The Swanzy establishment has set up an exceptionally light battery of +twelve stamps, made in sections for easier transport. Neither here nor in +any of the mines have stone-breakers or automatic feeders yet been +introduced: the stuff is all hand-spalled. One small 'Belleville' drives +the stamps, another works the Tangye pump, and a third turns the +saw-mills. I will notice a few differences between the Swanzy system and +that of Effuenta. The wooden framework of the stamp-mill is better than +iron. The cam-shaft here carries only single, not double cams, a decided +disadvantage: in order to strike the same number of blows per minute it +has to make double the number of revolutions. Moreover, by some unhappy +mistake, it is too far from its work, and the result is a succession of +sharp blows on the tappets, with injury to all the gear. On the other hand +proper fingers are fitted to the stamps: this is far better than +supporting them by a rough chock of wood. At Crockerville, as at Effuenta, +only six of the twelve stamps were working: there the pump was at fault; +here the blanket-tables had not been made wide enough. I could hardly +estimate the total amount of ore brought to grass, or its average yield: +specimens of white quartz, with threads, strings, and lobs of gold, have +been sent to England from Crocker's Reef. The best tailings are reserved +either for treatment on the spot or for reduction in England. The mine, as +regards present condition, is in the stage of prospecting upon a large and +liberal scale. The stamps are chiefly used to run through samples of from +50 to 100 tons taken from the various parts of the property: in this way +the most exact results can be obtained. During my visit they were +preparing to work a hundred tons from Aji Bipa, the fourth and furthest +_butte_ to the north-west. + +I visited this mound in company with Mr. Sam, who interpreted the name to +be that of the gambogefruit. We descended, as we had ascended, by the +stamping-battery, crossed the bridge, and then struck northwards, over the +third hillock, to No. 4. Unlike Crocker's Reef, Aji Bipa does not show +visible gold; its other peculiarities will best be explained by the report +I wrote on the spot. + +This property is situated near Crockerville and can always be easily +reached from that place. In fact, the southern boundary marches with the +northern limit of the Crockerville estate. The rich gold-bearing lode is +situated on the western slope of the hill, and can be seen in all the +three shafts which have been sunk. The formation of the hill seems in many +respects to correspond with the Lingula flags at and near Clogau, +Dolgelli, and Gogafau. This formation is practically the same as that of +the range of hills on which the concessions of the Gold Coast Mining +Company, of the African Gold Coast Mining Company, of the Effuenta +Company, of the Mines d'Or d'Aboassu (Abosu), and the Tamsu concessions +are situated, and also as that of Tebribi Hill; but each of the three +areas has its own marked features. In all the rocks are talcose and show a +sort of conglomerate of quartz pebbles, in some cases water-worn and in +others angular, bedded in a mixture of quartz and granite detritus. This +has in the three areas undergone varying degrees of pressure, and has been +upheaved at different angles. In some cases the pressure and heat have +been so great that the rock assumes a distinctly gneissic character. + +At Aji Bipa the lode runs N. 38ş E. (Mag.) in the centre shaft, and N. 40 +E. in the southern shaft, a sort of fault occurring in the centre shaft. +In the northern shaft I should put it at 38ş, but from the way in which +the neighbouring rock had cleaved it was difficult to get the strike +accurately. The dip is the same in all three shafts, viz. 82ş. The lode +being so near vertical, it can be clearly traced for the whole depth of +the shafts, and is very well defined. The hanging (eastern) wall is highly +coloured with iron oxides, and contains many quartz crystals which are +through-coloured with the same, and I do not think it at all unlikely that +garnets and other gems may be found in it. One or two minute crystals +showed a green colour, and might be tourmaline or emerald; but perhaps it +was only a surface-colour caused by the presence of copper. The foot wall +is very well marked by a strip of whitish yellow clay about an inch in +thickness. The rock on both sides of the lode is gold-bearing, and is +evidently, as well as the real lode, formed of the debris of old quartz +and granites. Talcose flakes are frequent, and in some places it seems to +be clearly gneiss. Although with a small plant it might not be profitable +to treat this, still with large and suitable machinery it may be made to +pay, and the trouble of separating the rich lode from the inferior stone +avoided. One remarkable trait in the lode is the manner in which it splits +into blocks and slabs, all the faces of the quartz pebbles being cloven in +precisely the same plane. + +The length of the concession along the line of lode is 2,780 feet, and +from the way in which the lode stands on the western slope of the hill, +and the dip being eastward, I am of opinion that if a drift were put +through the hill other and parallel lodes would be found. Of course this +can only be proved by experience. + +The thickness of the lode where I measured it varied from 22-1/2 to 25 +inches in the southern shaft; and although I saw one pinch in the +northern, and the fault in the centre one, it can easily be traced and +worked, and should prove most profitable. In the centre shaft it is 24 +inches, and in the northern 30 inches. + +A curious sort of black substance occurs close to the line of clay which +defines the under side of the lode, and may be remnants of some vegetable +material; but with the means at my disposal I will not give any decided +opinion. + +Over the rock which forms the main body of the hill lie the usual red clay +and oxidised quartz gravels, which, if treated by hydraulic mining, ought, +as it contains gold, to prove a paying stuff: moreover washing off the +surface-dirt would lay bare the rock and render all after-work easy and +simple. + +The alluvials in the bottoms should here prove unusually rich, and means +might be adopted by which they should be raised mechanically and then +flumed down again. + +Ample water supply exists both for hydraulic mining and reef-working; +there are good sites for all necessary machinery and building, and timber +as usual is to be had in any quantity that may be required. + +The question of transport is of course a most important one, and in the +present state of the roads and country very expensive; but from the +route-survey I have made I am convinced that a cheap and efficient service +to the mines of this and neighbouring districts would be easily organised, +and that instead of paying, as at present, the absurd price of 4_s_. or +5_s_. per ton per mile, it could be reduced to an average of from 4_d_. to +6_d_. The shafts now open are-- + South, 45 feet deep, 9 feet by 4 feet 9 inches. + Centre, 36 feet deep, 8 feet 6 inches by 4 feet 2 inches. + North, 45 feet deep, 8 feet by 5 feet 10 inches. + +This is both a most valuable and interesting piece of country to work, and +I hope that it may soon be provided with all necessary staff, plant and +machinery. + +Rich returns may be confidently expected, and under proper management +should prove a most paying business. + +The exploratory works now existing have been done in an honest and +businesslike manner, like all I have seen where Mr. Crocker and Mr. Turner +have worked; and the zeal and intelligence displayed by Mr. Sam could +scarcely be equalled and certainly not surpassed. + +I have not said anything about the quantity of gold to the ton, as the +experimental crushings at Crockerville will enable a much more accurate +idea to be formed than any I could make from the hand-washings I saw done. + +The boxes of specimens sealed by me are the result of blasts and +excavation done whilst I was on the spot. + +[Footnote: TEMPERATURE, ETC., AT CROCKERVILLE. +Date Thermometer Bar. Rainfall + Max. Min. Inches Ins. +April 1 91ş 73ş 29.55 + " 2 91 75 29.50 0.06 + " 3 93 74 29.50 + " 4 90 73 29.50 + " 5 96 76 29.40 + " 6 91 71 29.45 3.02 + " 7 80 70 29.50 + " 8 75 71 29.55 + " 9 93 72 29.50 0.01 + " 10 92 73 29.50 + " 11 93 74 29.45 0.02 + " 12 94 72 29.50 0.09 + " 13 95 74 29.50 0.50 + " 14 96 74 29.50 + " 15 96 76 29.50 + " 16 88 74 29.45 + " 17 92 73 29.55 + " 18 89 74 29.55 + " 19 85 74 29.55 0.03 + " 20 91 73 29.60 0.47 + " 21 88 74 29.55 0.01 + " 22 93 74 29.60 0.03 + " 23 92 73 29.55 + " 24 94 73 29.50 0.28 + " 25 93 73 29.50 0.18 + " 26 93 73 29.50 0.26 + " 27 93 74 29.55 0.27 + " 28 88 74 29.50 + " 29 94 74 29.45 + " 30 93 74 29.40 0.26 +May 1 90ş 73ş 29.45 0.40 + " 2 90 72 29.45 0.74 + + " 3 81 72 29.50 + " 4 86 73 29.50 0.03 + " 5 88 73 29.55 0.04 + " 6 83 71 29.55 + " 7 89 73 29.50 0.05 + " 8 90 74 29.50 + " 9 91 73 29.45 + " 10 80 71 29.50 0.95 + " 11 89 73 29.45 0.06 + " 12 89 74 29.50 + " 13 94 73 29.35 0.01 + " 14 84 74 29.50 + " 15 89 72 29.50 2.90 + " 16 85 73 29.50 + " 17 79 72 29.60 1.23 + " 18 85 74 29.50 + " 19 82 74 29.55 0.06 + " 20 87 74 29.50 + " 21 88 70 29.50 0.30 + " 22 84 70 29.60 0.92 + " 23 88 72 29.60 0.02 + " 24 87 73 29.60 + " 25 86 72 29.60 1.23 + " 26 82 71 29.60 1.23 + " 27 86 71 29.60 1.54 + " 28 85 73 29.50 + " 29 88 73 29.60 + " 30 82 73 29.55 0.56 + " 31 82 72 29.55 +June 1 82 72 29.60 0.18 + " 2 82 72 29.60 1.05 + " 3 83 74 29.55 0.16 + " 4 84 73 29.65 0.05 + " 5 84 73 29.60 0.14 + " 6 84 73 29.55 + " 7 82 72 29.50 0.16 + " 8 82 72 29.65 + " 9 85 73 29.55 + " 10 84 73 29.69 + " 11 80 73 29.55 + " 12 81 72 29.60 + " 13 81 68 29.60 0.02 + " 14 85 66 29.60 + " 15 86 68 29.65 + " 16 86 68 29.60 + " 17 87 69 29.60 + " 18 83 70 29.60 + " 19 82 71 29.60 0.70 + " 20 79 72 29.65 0.14 + " 21 82 72 29.60 + " 22 85 72 29.65 0.03 + " 23 82 73 29.50 + " 24 75 71 29.65 2.20 + " 25 80 71 29.70 + " 26 86 71 29.70 + " 27 80 71 29.65 0.34 + " 28 81 71 29.65 + " 29 81 71 29.60 0.14 + " 30 78 70 29.65 +July 1 79 67 29.70 + " 2 79 68 29.65 + " 3 80 71 29.70 + " 4 86 72 29.70 0.60 + " 5 79 72 29.70 0.40 + " 6 81 71 29.60 0.17 + " 7 79 72 29.70 + " 8 81 71 29.70 + " 9 80 70 29.75 0.06 + " 10 79 72 29.60 + " 11 80 71 29.60 0.50 + " 12 80 72 29.60 + " 13 78 70 29.60 + " 14 79 70 29.65 + " 15 80 69 29.70 0.40 + " 16 83 70 29.70 + " 17 81 71 29.60 0.40 + " 18 80 71 29.60 + " 19 79 71 29.65 + " 20 79 70 29.55 + " 21 80 70 29.60 + " 22 80 71 29.60 0.02 + " 23 81 71 29.65 + " 24 80 71 29.65 + " 25 79 71 29.70 3.30 + " 26 79 70 29.70 + " 27 80 70 29.70 + " 28 85 71 29.70 + " 29 81 71 29.65 + " 30 78 70 29.65 0.70 + " 31 79 70 29.65 +Aug. 1 78 69 29.65 + " 2 83 72 29.70 + " 3 82 72 29.65 0.56 + " 4 80 70 29.65 + " 5 82 72 29.60 + " 6 79 70 29.60 0.28 + " 7 81 70 29.60 + " 8 80 70 29.60 + " 9 81 70 29.65 + " 10 82 70 29.65 0.40 + " 11 82 70 29.65 0.60 + " 12 81 68 29.65 + " 13 81 67 29.60 + " 14 80 69 29.70 + " 15 83 71 29.65 + " 16 81 69 29.65 + " 17 90 70 29.70 + " 18 86 71 29.65 + " 19 81 70 29.65 + " 20 85 68 29.70 + " 21 83 70 29.70 + " 22 80 70 29.65 + " 23 81 73 29.70 + " 24 84 71 29.65 + " 25 86 70 29.70 + " 26 82 70 29.70 + " 27 84 71 29.65 0.02 + " 28 84 71 29.70 0.01 + " 29 85 72 29.70 0.02 + " 30 86 70 29.70 + " 31 85 71 29.65 +Sept. 1 84 72 29.65 + " 2 85 72 29.66 + " 3 87 72 29.65 0.01 + " 4 86 73 29.66 0.15 + " 5 85 72 29.70 + " 6 80 72 29.70 0.15 + " 7 85 72 29.70 + " 8 86 71 29.60 0.18 + " 9 86 72 29.60 1.00 + " 10 80 72 29.70 0.01 + " 11 85 72 29.70 0.01 + " 12 85 73 29.65 + " 13 77 72 29.65 0.50 + " 14 79 72 29.65 0.40 + " 15 83 72 29.65 0.17 + " 16 82 71 29.65 0.46 + " 17 78 70 29.70 0.07 + " 18 86 72 29.55 0.12 + " 19 78 72 29.70 1.14 + " 20 87 72 29.60 0.43 + " 21 78 71 29.66 0.02 + " 22 78 70 29.65 0.30 + " 23 85 71 29.60 0.03 + " 24 85 72 29.70 + " 25 87 72 29.60 0.03 + " 26 84 72 29.60 0.24 + " 27 91 73 29.50 + " 28 89 71 29.50 + " 29 89 71 29.55 0.65 + " 30 91 72 29.65 + + _Meteorological Register._ + + 1880 + Average Tem. per Diem Total Rainfall per Month +April 79.00 -- +May 78.40 8.27 +June 76.60 11.24 +July 74.79 3.44 +August 74.22 5.30 +Sept. 76.28 3.08 +Oct. 78.05 4.89 + +Highest temperature on May 21, 94ş (1880). + +Lowest temperature on July 6 and 7, 65ş. + +Highest rainfall in 24 hours on June 20, 3 25. + +Highest variation in 24 hours on May 2 and 3 94ş-68ş = 26ş. + +Lowest variation in 24 hours on May 14, 76ş-74ş= 20ş. + + + 1881 + Average Tem. per Diem Total Rainfall per Month +April 83.65 5.89 +May 77.67 11.21 +June 76.73 7.08 +July 75.32 6.65 +August 76.46 1.89 + +Highest temperature on April 5 and 14, 96ş (1881). + +Lowest temperature on June 14, 66ş. + +Highest rainfall in 24 hours on July 25, 3 30. + +Highest variation in 24 hours on April 14, 96ş-74ş = 22ş. + +Lowest variation in 24 hours on June 24, 75ş-71ş = 4ş.] + + + +CHAPTER XXIV. + +TO THE MINES OF ABOSU, OF THE 'GOLD COAST,' AND OF THE TAKWA +('AFRICAN GOLD COAST') COMPANIES. + +On April 6 I reached the Mine d'Or d'Aboassu, this being my second visit. +The first, on the previous Sunday, had been more interesting in the point +of anthropological than of geological study. The day of rest had been +devoted to a general jollification by most of the whites, and the blacks +had ably followed suit. The best example was set by the doctor attached: +he was said to have emptied sixty-two bottles of cognac during his +twenty-three days of steamer-passage. But, brandy proving insufficient, he +had recourse to opium, chloral, and bromide of potassium, a pint and a +half of laudanum barely sufficing for the week. I need hardly say where +the abuse of stimulants and opiates lands a man, either in Western Africa +or in England. + +From the Abosu village and its abominations I turned sharp to the +north-west, and ascended the steep western flank of Abo Yao, whose highest +point is 312 feet above sea-level. The distance from Crockerville is a +mile and three-quarters, or a mile in a straight line, and from Takwa, +about six. M. Dahse increases the latter to nine miles, the difference of +latitude being three and a quarter miles, and of longitude four. My map +will be the first to correct these distances, which are exaggerated by the +native carriers to get more pay. + +The summit of Abo Yao commands an extensive view to the north. Here the +range of vision is about sixteen miles over the greenest of second +growths; and the whole is dotted with _buttes_ of red clay, somewhat lower +than 'On the Stone' (_Abosu_). It is easy to see that here again we have +an ancient archipelago, like that which formerly fringed the shore of +Axim, but of older formation. In fact, I should not expect to find a true +coast before entering the grassy zone north of the great belt of forest. +Each hill must carry at least one core of auriferous reef. The intervening +valleys, gullies, and gulches, seldom more than a hundred feet above +ocean-level, have been warped up by gradual deposition from the north, and +are doubtless full of rich alluvium. This might be worked by +steam-navvies, and washed upon the largest possible scale; the result +would be excellent ground for plantations. + +I look upon Abosu as an eastern outlier of the greater Takwa ridge. But +although the hill preserves the normal direction the reef lies almost at +right angles to it, crossing the upper end and striking from north 40ş +west to south 40ş east. I am unable to divine what caused this curious +dislocation. The gold matrix is still the Takwa gneiss, rarely showing +visible metal. Possibly the present diggings have struck only a large +branch or a break. + +Here mining-operations have been extensive, and about 1,800 tons of rich +stuff have already been brought to bank. The diggings begin with an open +cut of 110 feet; this leads to a tunnel in the rock partly timbered, by +which the lode with a dip of 41ş is bisected. Eastward from the tunnel a +gallery has been driven 147 feet along the vein, and westwards there is a +similar passage of 202 feet. About 140 feet on either side of the tunnel +two rises, one 16, the other 12 feet long, are being driven up the slope +of the reef. On the hill-side above the tunnel a shaft 80 feet deep has +been sunk, but it has not struck the vein: for some peculiar reason the +bottom is made broader than the top; and the mining-captain has a shrewd +idea that, like the native pits of similar form, it may end by 'caving +in.' Again, a second tunnel has just been opened in the southern end of +the _butte_, the engineer hoping to find the main lode lying conformably, +or north with easting. + +A little above the northern foot of the Abo Yao the native workmen are +employed in making a large platform, or terrace, for stamps and other +machinery; now it is about 150 x 40 yards. As yet there is no power. A +large open shed of timber-posts, with a roofing of corrugated iron, stands +ready to receive the expected saw-mill. The only actual industry is +digging. + +At Abosu the _personnel_ is lodged in bamboo-houses scattered over the +hill-side, and the settlement contrasts dismally with the orderly comfort +of Crockerville. M. Haillot, acting manager of Abosu and Takwa, leads a +caravan-life between the two. Fortunately for him the distance is +inconsiderable. I here met Mr. Symonds, a Cornish miner, who has worked in +Mexico, and who speaks Spanish fluently, enabling him to converse with M. +Plisson. He was one of our fellow-passengers, and he rejoiced exceedingly +to see me. He and his youngster, Mr. Mitchell, who suffers from +chest-complaint, praised the prospects of the mine, but did not enjoy +their pay being cut for passage and the system of ration-money. Another +unwise plan adopted by the French Company is to stipulate upon twenty +working-days, each of ten hours per mensem, in default of which salaries +undergo proportional deduction. This makes the miner work even when he is +unfit for exertion. White labour, however, is confined to superintendence +and to laying out and building tunnels. A Swiss, M. Schneuvelly, acts as +general superintendent, and he is assisted by two French _ouvriers_. The +hands are chiefly Krumen. The style of working is decidedly 'loafy,' and +the pipe is touched at all hours and in all places. + +North of Abosu lies the Dahse concession, a square of 1,000 fathoms, to be +worked by an Anglo-German company. I know it only by hearsay and by seeing +it upon the owner's map. + +M. Haillot invited me to be his guest, and I spent my day in the mine. +Next morning (April 8) we retraced our steps towards Takwa, halting by the +way at the northernmost establishment on the ridge, the 'Gold Coast Mining +Company (Limited).' This concession, an area of 1000 x 500 fathoms, on the +west of the hill-height, does not as yet show much progress; and the works +seem to have increased but little since last year. There are two shafts +and two tunnels to strike the lode. The ore brought to grass was not in +large quantities, although I had heard to the contrary. The stone is said +to be abnormally rich, yielding seven ounces of gold to the ton; but I did +not think it richer than its neighbours, and I suspect that it will have +to be rated at one-seventh. The manager's house, also on the west of the +hill, consists of one large room of plankage, raised on posts and +thatched. The brothers Gowan, who are working exceedingly hard, and Mr. +Kenyon, who is leaving for England, were the only white men I saw. The +hands are chiefly Kruboys and the artificers Sierra Leonites. Since Mr. +Creswick's departure for Europe some changes have been made. Mr. Growan, +the acting manager, has transferred the future works to a higher level, +and has fitted up a reduction-office where there is, at present, nothing +to reduce. Crucibles and chemicals are ranged round a long room with an +iron roof. The tenant has borrowed a mortar-box, two stamp-heads, shoes, +and dies, and has fitted them with wooden stems and cam-shafts. He +proposes to drive them by two-man power, in order to crush three tons of +ore per diem and to test a new patent amalgamator. + +I breakfasted with the scanty staff and then walked down the western +valley to the Takwa establishment, the oldest of the new mining-industries +in the Protectorate. I place the African Gold Coast Company, by +calculation, in N. lat. 18ş 20' and W. long. (Gr.) 1ş 57' +40". It is therefore fifteen direct geographical miles from Tumento +instead of thirty; twenty-seven (not sixty) from Axim, and thirty-five +from Dixcove, formerly supposed to be the nearest port. This position will +make an important difference in sundry plans and projects which were made +under old and erroneous ideas of its topography. At present the cost of +transport from Tumento to Effuenta is 6_d._ for 10 lbs., 8_d._ to Takwa, +and 10 _d._ to Abosu. + +The head of the valley shows a single stream, the Babeabarbawo or Takwa +rivulet, rising close to the works of the Gold Coast Company. It is +swollen by small tributaries from either side; and, just below the +settlement, an eastern dam with a small sluice has been thrown across the +valley of the Franco-English company. As there is plenty of water in and +near the mine, they should cut at once this abominable dam, which forms a +pestilential swamp, the cess-pool of the neighbourhood. The Takwa +settlement, a line of bamboo and swish huts well built enough, lies, like +a hamlet in Congo-land, along the winding road. It is bare of trees, but +here and there a shaft yawns before the doors. M. Dahse makes the +population before 1879 to have been 6,000 souls, and in 1881 about 3,000. +I should reduce the latter figure to 600, and propose for 1882, before the +May emigration, 1,500 to 1,600. The people are Coast-men and islanders of +every tribe, with a fair sprinkling of dissolute ruffians, 'white +blackmen,' from Sierra Leone and Akra, drunken Fanti policemen, and +plundering Haussa soldiers. The ex-manager of the Effuenta mine says, in +allusion to his early residence there, 'So wird Einem das Leben daselbst +zu einer wahren Hoelle;' and he rightly describes the peculiar industries +of these true infernal regions as 'Schnappskneipen, Spielhoellen und +Schlimmeres.' Almost every house combines the pub. and the agapemone: all +the chief luxuries of the Coast-'factories' are there, and the 'blay' +(basket) of Sierra Leone comes out strong. Brilliant cottons and kerchiefs +hang from the normal line; there is pomatum for the lucky dandy and tallow +for the miner down in his luck; whilst gold-dust is conjured from pouch or +pocket by pipes and tobacco, needles and thread, beads, knives, and other +notions. + +The northern part of this veritable 'Nigger Digger's Delight' is now +comparatively deserted: some chief died there, and the people have crowded +into the main body of the settlement. The village of Kwabina Angu, King of +Eastern Apinto, is now joined to Takwa. I could not distinguish the +'Palast' of King Kwami Enimill, who rules western Wasa, and whose capital +is Akropong. + +M. Haillot had preceded me in a hammock, and welcomed me to his quarters. +He occupied one of the three or four raised plank-houses; another lodged +Dr. Burke, and a third M. Voltaire, Mr. Carlyon, another young Cornishman, +who came out with us, and sundry French _ouvriers_. A large bamboo-house +had been built for a general restaurant: it became a barrack during the +'Ashanti scare,' and now it is quite unused. Standing farther back are the +very respectable tenements of the same material, with broad verandahs, +occupied at times by Mr. Ex-missionary Dawson and family. The negro +quarters are mostly in the Takwa village. + +The 'Father of the African Mines,' dating from 1878, lies on the northern +third of the celebrated Takwa ridge, and its concession embraces an area +of 1000 x 2000 fathoms. The rich auriferous reef is the backbone of a long +narrow line of hill whose diameter ranges between 1,000 feet to 600 where +it is pinched. The lode strikes to the north-north-east with a dip of 47ş +west. The angle of underlay, I may remark, greatly varies in these Gold +Coast reefs; some are nearly vertical (82ş), others are moderately +inclined (20ş to 50ş), and others run almost flat. The richest part, not +including the broken-off ore, is from eighteen inches to two feet broad. +It is decidedly more than 'one to two hundred years old,' as reported home +by a scientific official on the spot. The 'coffins,' or abandoned native +diggings, must date from at least two centuries ago. The natives scraped +off the gold-bearing stone till the water drove them out. The formation is +upper Silurian or lower Devonian, a transition to gneiss, but not highly +metamorphic. No fossils have yet been found: if any exist they would be +microscopic. Where talcose it is bluish, and shows streaks of 'black +sand,' titaniferous iron. The grey sand washes to white. There are +pot-holes which have been filled with either a pudding or a breccia of +quartz. In places the gneiss has been so little changed by heat and +pressure that it forms arenaceous flags and shales. It suggests a deposit +in some ancient lagoon, alternately fresh and salt. A hard fissile slate +of purple colour is based upon the ground-rock of grey granite; there is +also a modern clay-slate, which lies unconformably to the older, and +through it the great veins of gneiss and quartz seem to pass. The alluvial +detritus, which fills up the valleys to their present level, is formed by +the diluvium of the hills: in parts these bottoms show strata, from one to +three feet thick, of water-rolled pebbles bedded in clay. Here and there +the couch must be a hundred feet deep, and the whole should be raised for +washing by machinery. These strata were apparently deposited in a lagoon +of more modern date. + +The gold is sometimes visible in the gneiss; and I have seen pieces whose +surface is dotted with yellow spots resembling pyrites. It is often in the +form of spangles called float-gold and flour-gold. Select specimens have +yielded upwards of eight ounces to the ton. If the blanketings and first +tailings be properly treated, it should afford an average of at least an +ounce and a half per ton. Treating a hundred tons a day gives a sum of +30,000 per annum; and, assuming 6_l_. of gold to the ton, we have a total +of 180,000_l_. The working of this section of the mine should not exceed +30,000_l_. a year, which leaves a net gain of 150,000_l_. + +The _Bergwerke_ consist of four tunnels driven into the lower part of the +western hill-side, further down than the bottom of the abandoned native +workings. They are eccentrically disposed in curves and other queer +figures. All abut upon galleries running in sections along the lode-line, +and intended ultimately to connect. The total length may be a thousand +feet. Being cut in the gneiss, they require no timbering; but the floors +are little raised above the level of the rivulet, and water percolates +through roofs and walls. The latest tunnel has been driven past the new +gallery, and has struck a second lode; this has never been worked by the +natives, and stoping to above the springs may be found advisable. +Ventilation is managed by means of the old abandoned native shafts. A very +large quantity of ore is brought to bank. I found it hard to form an +estimate, because it was in scattered heaps overgrown with vegetation; but +I should not be surprised if it amounted to 5,000 tons. This means that +want of proper machinery has resulted in a dead capital of from 20,000_l_. +to 30,000_l_. + +A space has been cleared on the level of the trams uniting the mouths of +the tunnel, and here will be placed the 'elephant-stamps' actually on +their way out. They have now two batteries, each of six head, worked by +the same shaft: the steam-engine, as usual, is the Belleville. The +material is bad; the gratings, on the levels of the dies, have been +smashed by the stones bombarding them, and the ill-constructed foundations +of native wood are eaten by white ants. Yet they have done duty for only +eighteen months. The sludge was treated in fancy amalgamators, especially +in one with a pan and revolving arms, probably evolved out of the inner +consciousness of some gentleman in Paris. The result was discharging +upwards of 1,500 lbs. of mercury into the valley below. A little amalgam +was obtained, and proved that the rock does contain gold--a fact perfectly +well known for centuries to the natives. + +The history of the 'African Gold Coast' Mine in the hands of +Franco-English shareholders has already been noticed. M. Bonnat preferred +reworking the old native diggings to the virgin reefs lying north and +south of them. Some of the latter can be worked for years without pumping; +on the others the plant will be expensive. But the Company, instead of +mining, has gone deeply into concession-mongering, and their grants are +scattered broadcast over the country. One of them, the 'Mankuma,' near +Aodua, the capital of Eastern Apinto, extends twenty-six miles, with a +depth of 500 yards on either bank of the Ancobra River above the mouth of +the Abonsa influent. These gigantic areas will give rise to many lawsuits, +and no man in the country has power to make such a grant. The ownership of +the land is vested in a 'squirearchy,' so to speak, and only the +proprietors have a right to sell or lease. When gold is worked the +'squire' takes his royalty from the miner, and he or his chiefs must in +turn pay tribute to the 'king.' Hence the money may pass through three or +four hands before reaching its final destination. + +These indiscriminate concessions will be very injurious to the future of +the Protectorate, and should be limited by law. At present the only use is +to sell them to syndicates and companies, and so to pay a fictitious +dividend to the _actionnaires_. Evidently such a process is rather on the +'bear and bull' system of the stock-market than legitimate mining. + +I was well acquainted with the late M. Bonnat, a bright, cheery little +Frenchman of great energy, some knowledge of the Fanti, or rather the +Ashanti, language, and perfect experience of the native character. Born at +a village near Macon, he began life as a cook on board a merchant ship; he +soon became agent to some small French trading firm, and then pushed his +way high up the unexplored Volta River. Here the Ashantis barred his +passage, and eventually took him prisoner as he attempted to cross their +limits; he was carried to Kumasi, where he remained in confinement for +three years. When the war of 1873-1874 set him at liberty he passed +through Wasa to Europe, and by his local information, and that gathered in +captivity, he secured the public ear for the gold-mines. His later +proceedings are well known, and some of their unfortunate results are best +unrelated. + +I met M. Bonnat last in June 1881; he was then going up to Takwa in +company with Messieurs Bowden and Macarthy, and I was canoeing down the +Ancobra on my way home. He was suffering severely from a carbuncular boil +on the thigh, which he refused to have properly opened. His death, which +occurred within a fortnight, is usually attributed to pleuro-pneumonia, +but I rather think it was due to blood-poisoning. He had been exposing +himself recklessly for some months, and two drenchings in the rain brought +him to his end; yet there are people who remember his visit to the +forbidden fetish-valley of Apatim. The father of the modern gold-mines, +the Frenchman who taught Englishmen how to work their own wealth, lies +buried at Takwa; I did not see his tomb. + +The two French mines, Takwa and Abosu, have at last agreed to join hands +and to become one. The capital has been fixed at 250,000_l_., and Paris +will be the head-quarters. Mr. Arthur Bowden, the manager, has been sent +for to, and has now returned from France: it is to be hoped that his +extensive experience will instil some practical spirit into the new +Directory. + + + +CHAPTER XXV. + +RETURN TO AXIM AND DEPARTURE FOR EUROPE. + +I awoke on Saturday, April 9, in bad condition, and during the afternoon +had my third attack of fever, the effect of the dam and its miasma. +Wanting change of air, and looking forward to Effuenta, I set off in my +hammock and found my friends. The tertian lasted me till Monday, Sunday +being an 'off-day;' and, as the Tuesday was wet and uncomfortable, I +delayed departure till Wednesday morning. My 'Warburg' had unfortunately +leaked out: the paper cover of the phial was perfect, but of the contents +only a little sediment remained. Treatment, therefore, was confined to +sulphate of quinine and a strychnine and arsenic pill; arseniate of +quinine would have been far better, but the excellent preparation is too +economical for the home-pharmist, and has failed to secure the favour of +the Coast-doctors. One of my friends has made himself almost fever-proof +by the liberal use of arsenic; but I can hardly recommend it, as the +result must be corrected by an equally liberal use of Allan's anti-fat. +Burton, who has studied its use amongst the Styrian arsenic-eaters, denies +that this is the common effect: he found that it makes the mountaineer +preserve his condition, wind and complexion, arms him against ague, and +adds generally to his health. He is still doubtful, however, whether it +shortens or prolongs life. + +On Wednesday, April 12, I left Effuenta after morning tea. My hospitable +host had nearly seen the last of his stores, to which he had made me so +cordially welcome; and there were no signs of fresh supplies, although +they had long been due. This is hardly fair treatment for the hard-working +employe: let the Company look to it. With a certain tightening of the +heart I made over my canine friend, Nero, to Dr. Roulston. He had lost all +those bad habits which neglected education had engrafted upon the heat of +youth. He now began to show more fondness for sport than for +sheep-worrying; and he retrieved one bird, carrying it with the utmost +delicacy of mouth. + +I set out on foot for Vinegar Hill, and found that the steep eastern +ascent from the Takwa ridge had been provided with a series of cut steps +by Mr. Commissioner: in these lands, as elsewhere, new brooms sweep clean; +but they are very easily worn out. This place has been for years the +'black beast' of travellers, especially in rainy weather, when the rapid +incline becomes so slippery that even the most sure-footed slither and +slide. + +After crossing the Abonsa Hill I took to my hammock and was carried +through rain, and a very devilry of weather, into the Abonsa village. The +whole path was shockingly bad and muddy. Once more I became a lodger of +Mr. Crocker's; his house, being as usual far the best, gave us good +shelter for the night. + +Next morning (7.30) we set out down the Abonsa stream in a small canoe +belonging to Mr. MacLennan. The natives made the usual difficulties; the +craft (which was quite sound) could not float, and amongst other things +she had no paddles: for this, however, I had provided by making my men cut +them last evening. Almost immediately after leaving this head of +navigation, barred above by a reef and a fall, we saw that eternal +mangrove. Presently the Aunabe creek broke the line of the right bank. Our +course was as usual exceedingly tortuous, turning to every quadrant of the +compass; and, during the last fortnight, the water-level had risen four +feet. The formation of the trough is that of the Ancobra, and the bed +bristles with rocks. In a distance of seven miles and a half by course +there were four small breaks, and one serious rapid about a hundred yards +long, where the decline exceeded five feet. Here the men had to get +overboard and to ease the canoe down the swirling waters, which dashed +heavily on the rocks. The snags were even thicker than on the upper +Ancobra, and were far more dangerous than on the St. John's. In places the +mangrove fallen from the banks had taken root in the river-bed. In fact, +unless some exertion be soon made, even the present insufficient channel +will be blocked up. + +At the Abonsa _embouchure_ Mr. Wyatt's map, copied from M. Dahse, shows an +island backed by a ridge running nearly east-west. I found no river-holm, +and only a small broadening of the Ancobra to about double its usual +breadth. The banks at the sharp angle of junction are, however, low; and, +perhaps, my predecessor saw them when flooded. The Mankuma Hill, on the +right bank, belonging to the Franco-English Company, is somewhat taller +than its neighbours: as usual in this silted-up archipelago, it trends +from the north-east to the south-west. + +I had already shot the Ancobra River when paddling up, and was not over +lucky when coming down. The big kingfisher did not put in an appearance, +and the sun-birds equally failed me: the smallest item of my collection +measures two and a quarter inches, and is robed in blue, crimson, and +sulphur. I was fortunate enough to bring home four specimens of a rare +spur-plover (_Lobivanellus albiceps_): they are now in Mr. Sharp's +department of the British Museum. I killed a few little snakes and one +large green tree-snake; two crocodiles, both lost in the river, and an +iguana, which found its way into the spirit-cask. A tzetze-fly (_Glossina +morsitans_) was captured in Effuenta House, curiously deserting its usual +habit of jungle-life in preference to a home on clear ground: its +dagger-like proboscis, in the grooved sheath with a ganglion of muscles at +the base, assimilated it to the dreaded and ferocious cattle-scourge which +extends from Zanzibar to the Tanganyika Lake and from Kilwa (Quiloa) to +the Transvaal. My kind friend and hospitable host Dr. (now Sir) John Kirk, +who did the geography and natural history for the lamentable Zambeze +expedition, met it close to the Victoria Falls. Burton also sent home a +specimen from the Gold Coast east of Accra. + +Mr. MacLennan gave me sundry beetles, but insisted on retaining one which +is the largest I ever saw. The hunting-dog must scour the bush in packs, +for the voice is exactly that of hounds. The laugh of the hyaena and the +scream of the buzzard are commonly heard. The track of a 'bush-cow' once +crossed my path: the halves of the spoor were some five inches long by +three wide, and the hoofs knuckled backwards so as to show false hoofs of +almost equal size. I was unable to procure for Dr. Guenther a specimen of +the 'bush-dog,' as the Kruboys call it: last year I was bringing home a +live one in the s.s. _Nubia_; but one day the fellow in charge reported +that it was dead and had been thrown overboard. I hold it to be a tailless +lemur, the _galago_ of the East Coast. The French name is _orson_, the +popular idea being that it is an ursine. The Fanti peoples, whose +'folk-lore' is extensive, and who have some tale about every bird, beast, +and fish, thus account for the loud cries which we heard at night in every +'bush.' King Leo, having lost his mother, commanded by proclamation all +his subjects to attend her funeral, and none failed save Orson. One +evening his Feline Majesty, when going his rounds, found the delinquent +upon the ground, and roughly demanded the reason why. Orson, shuffling +towards the nearest tree, pleaded in all humility, 'O King, is thy beloved +parent really deceased? I never heard of it. I am so sorry; I would never +have failed to show the respect due to the royal house.' When he had +climbed the foot of the tree his tone began to alter. 'But, Sire, if thy +Majesty hath lost a mother, I see no cause compelling me to attend her +funeral.' And when quite safe the change was notable. 'Bother the old +woman! very glad she is dead, and may her grave be defiled!' These people +know the stuff of which courtiers are made. + +My collection of specimens from the mines and the river-beds filled a +dozen cases. The butterflies, of which we collected a large number, were +all spoilt by the moth for want of camphor. 'Insect-powder' had been our +only preservative. I had also a thirty-gallon cask of plants preserved in +spirits, two boxes well stuffed, a large case of orchids, and a raceme of +the bamboo-palm (_Raphia vinifera_), whose use has still to be found. The +animals, including insects in tubes, filled nearly two kegs and three +bottles, and I had two small cases of stuffed birds, the handiwork of Mr. +Dawson. + +Of stone-implements I was lucky enough to secure thirty-six, and made over +four of them to my friend Professor Prestwich. They are found everywhere +throughout the country, but I saw no place of manufacture except those +noted near Axim. Mr. Sam, of Tumento, promised to forward many others to +England. The native women search for and find them not only near the beds +of streams, but also about the alluvial diggings. Nearly all are shaped +like the iron axe or adze of Urua, in Central Africa, a long narrow blade +with rounded top and wedge-shaped edge. This tool is either used in the +hand like a chisel, or inserted into a conical hole burnt through a +tree-branch, and the shape of the aperture makes every blow tighten the +hold. The people mount it in two ways, either as an axe in line with, or +as an adze at a right angle to, the helve. + +At Akankon I obtained from Mr. Amondsen a stone-implement of novel shape, +not seen by me elsewhere. A bit of the usual close-grained trap had been +cut into a parallelopiped seven and a half inches long with a flat head +one inch and a half in diameter and a bevel-edge of two inches and +one-third along the slope. This part had been chipped ready for grinding, +and the article was evidently unfinished; one side still wanted polishing, +and the part opposite the bevel showed signs of tapering, as if a point +instead of an edge had been intended. At Axim I split off by gads and +wedges a large slice of the grooved rocks described by Burton; it came +home with me, and is now lodged in the British Museum. + +The rest of my story is told in a few words. I canoed safely down the +Ancobra River, and reached Axim on April 14. This return was made sad and +solitary by the absence of my canine friend, Nero. + +A week soon passed away at the port of the Gold-region. Mr. Grant +presently returned from his excursion to the west. He showed me fine +specimens of gold collected at Newtown, the English frontier-settlement +immediately east of French Assini. I had also warned him to look out for, +and he succeeded in finding, beds of bitumen permeated with petroleum: +this material will prove valuable for fuel and for asphalting, if not for +sale. My time was wholly taken up with papering and repacking my +collection, which had now assumed formidable proportions, and time fled +the faster as the days were occupied in also fighting an impertinent +attack of ague and fever. + +On April 24 the B. and A. s.s. _Loanda_ (Captain Brown) anchored in the +roads. Mr. Grant accompanied me on board, and showed himself useful and +energetic as usual. At Cape Palmas we shipped the Honourable Doctor and +Professor Blyden. He pointed out to me certain hillocks on the coast about +Grand Bassa, where he said gold had lately been found. The lay of the land +and the strike and shape of the eminences reminded me strongly of those I +had left behind me. The 'Secretary of the Interior,' who had been +compelled to leave his college, assured me that if wiser counsels prevail +Liberia will abandon her old Japanese policy of exclusion, and will open +her ports to European capital and enterprise. At Sierra Leone I called +upon Governor Havelock, who was recovering from the accident of a +dislocated shoulder. Both he and the 'Governess' were in the best of +health. At Madeira, on May 12, my companion Burton joined us, and we had a +week of dull passage to Liverpool. As we left on Friday and carried a +reverend gentleman on board, the cranky old craft was sorely tossed about +for two successive days, and we were delayed off the Liverpool bar, +arriving on the 20th instead of the 18th of May, 1882. + + + +CONCLUSION. + +The journey and the voyage ended, as such things should do, with a dinner +of welcome at the Adelphi, given to us by our hospitable friend Mr. James +Irvine. And here we had the first opportunity of delivering the message +which we had brought home from the Golden Land. + + + + +APPENDIX I + +Sec.1. THE ASHANTI SCARE. + +That fears of an Ashanti attack upon the mines of the Gold Coast +Protectorate are rather fanciful than factual we may learn from the +details of the Blue Book 'Gold Coast, 1881.' The 'threatened Ashanti +invasion,' popularly termed the 'Ashanti scare,' did abundant good by +showing up the weakness of that once powerful despotism, and the +superiority in numbers and in equipment of the coastlanders over the +inlanders. It is true that there are tribes, like the Awunahs of the +Volta, and villages, like Bein in Apollonia, which still sympathise with +our old enemy. But only the grossest political mismanagement, like that +which in 1876 abandoned our ally, the King of Juabin, to the tender +mercies of his Ashanti foeman, aided by the unwisest economy, which +starves everything to death save the treasure-chest, will ever bring about +a general movement against us. + +On December 1, 1880, died, to the general regret of native and stranger, +Mr. Ussher, Governor and Commander-in-Chief of the Gold Coast; a veteran +in the tropics and an ex-commissariat officer, whose political service +dated from 1861. In British India a change of rulers is always supposed to +offer a favourable opportunity for 'doing something,' often in the shape +of a revolt or a campaign. The same proved to be the case in West Africa, +where the Ashanti is officially described as 'crafty, persistent, +mendacious, and treacherous.' + +It may easily be imagined that after the English victories at Amoaful and +Ordusu in 1873-74 the African despotism sighed for _la revanche_. The +Treaty of Fomana, concluded (February 13), after the capture (February 4) +and the firing (February 6) of Kumasi, between Sir Garnet Wolseley and the +representative of the King, Kofi Kalkali, or Kerrikerri, subsequently +dethroned, stripped her of her principal dependencies--lopped off, in +fact, her four limbs. These were the ever-hostile province of Denkira, +auriferous Akim, Adansi, and lastly Assin, now part of our Protectorate. +The measure only renewed the tripartite treaty of April 27, 1831, when +King Kwako Dua, in consideration of free access to the seaboard, and in +friendship with the unfortunate and ill-treated Governor (George) Maclean, +'renounced all right or title to any tribute, or homage, from the Kings of +Denkira, Assin, and others formerly his subjects.' But _nulla fronti +fides_ is the rule of the hideous little negro despotism, which, in 1853, +again invaded the coveted lands on its southern frontier, Assin. + +The treaty of 1874, moreover, compelled Ashanti formally to renounce all +pretensions to sovereignty over Elmina and the tribes formerly in +connection with the Dutch Government. It vetoed her raids and forays upon +neighbouring peoples; like Dahome she had her annual slave-hunts and the +captives were sold for gold-dust to the inner tribes. The young officers +who replaced the veterans of the war would naturally desire, in Kafir +parlance, to 'wash their spears.' Nor are they satisfied with the defeats +sustained by their sires. 'I believe,' wrote Winwood Reade, 'that Sir +Garnet Wolseley attained the main object of the expedition, namely, the +securing of the Protectorate from periodical invasion. Yet still I wish +that the success had been more definite and complete.' The wish is echoed +by most people on the coast; and the natives still say, 'White man he go +up Kumasi, he whip black boy, and then he run away.' + +It is regretable that the Commander-in-Chief, if he could not occupy +Kumasi himself, did not leave Sir John H. Glover in charge, and especially +that he did not destroy the Bantama (royal place of human sacrifice), +[Footnote: Sir Garnet Wolseley's admirable conduct of the Egyptian +campaign, where he showed all the qualities which make up the sum of +'generalship,' have wiped out the memory of his failures in Ashanti and +Kafir-land. Better still, he has proved that the British soldier can +still fight, a fact upon which the disgraceful Zulu campaign had cast +considerable doubt. But the public ignores a truth known to every +professional. Under an incompetent or unlucky commander all but the best +men will run: the worst will allow themselves to be led or driven to +victory by one they trust. Compare the Egyptian troops under old Ibrahim +Pasta, and under Arabi, the Fe-lah-Pasha.] or at least remove from it the +skull of Sir Charles Macarthy. [Footnote: Captain Brackenbury throws doubt +upon the skull being preserved in the Bantama; but his book is mainly +apologetic, and we may ask, If the cherished relic be not there, where is +it? The native legend runs thus: 'And they took him (_i.e._ Macarthy) and +cut off his head, and brought it to their camp and removed the brains; but +the skull, which was left, they filled it with gold, and they roasted the +whole body and they carried it to Ashanti.... And the head, which they +bore to Ashanti, has become their "fetish," which they worship till this +day.'--Native account of Macarthy's death, Zimmermann's _Grammar of the +Accra or Ga Language_, Stuttgart, 1858.] And yet we now learn that the +campaign did good work. Captain Lonsdale, who has spent some time in +Kumasi, reports that the Caboceers have built huts instead of repairing +their 'palaces.' Moreover, he declares that the story of sacrificing girls +to mix their blood with house-swish is a pure fabrication; the Ashantis +would no longer dare to do anything so offensive to the conqueror. + +Last on the list of solid Ashanti grievances is her exclusion from the +seaboard. Unknown to history before A.D. 1700, the Despotism first invaded +the Coast in 1807, when King Osai Tutu Kwamina pretended a wish to recover +the fugitive chiefs Chibbu and Aputai. These attacks succeeded one another +at intervals of ten years, say the Fantis. The main object was to secure a +port on the coast, where the inlanders could deal directly with the white +man, and could thus escape the unconscionable pillaging, often fifty per +cent. and more, of the Fanti middleman. This feeling is not, indeed, +unknown to Europe: witness Montenegro. I see no reason why the people +should not have an 'Ashantimile' at the Volta mouth; and I shall presently +return to this subject. + +Hardly was Governor Ussher buried than troubles began. Mr. Edmund Watt, a +young District-commissioner at Cape Coast Castle, officially reported to +Lieutenant-Governor W. B. Griffith, subsequently Administrator of Lagos, +that Opoku, 'King' of Bekwa (Becquah), had used language tending to a +breach of the peace. This commander-in-Chief of the Ashanti forces in +1873-74 had publicly sworn in his sober senses at Kumasi, and in presence +of the new king, Kwamina Osai Mensah, that he would perforce reduce +Adansi, the hill-country held to be the southern boundary of Ashanti-land. +Such a campaign would have been an infraction of treaty, or at least a +breach of faith: although the province is not under the protection of the +Colonial Government, King Kofi Kalkali [Footnote: This ruler succeeded his +father, King Kwako Dua, in 1868; and his compulsory abdication is +considered to have been an ill-advised measure.] had promised to respect +its independence and to leave it unmolested. + +Lieutenant-Governor Griffith lost no time in forwarding the report to the +Colonial Office, adding sundry disquieting rumours which supported his +suspicions. Missionaries and merchants had observed that certain +'messengers,' or envoys, sent from Kumasi to acknowledge the presents of +the late Governor Ussher, were lingering without apparent reason about +Cape Coast Castle, after being formally dismissed. Moreover, their +residing in the house of 'Prince Ansah,' a personage not famous for plain +dealing, boded no good. + +A new complication presently arose. Prince Owusu, nephew of the King and +heir to the doughty Gyaman kingdom, fled from Kumasi to the Protectorate, +and reached Elmina on January 18. He appeared in great fear, and declared +that a son of the chief Amankwa Kwoma and three 'court-criers,' or +official heralds, were coming down to the coast on a solemn mission to +demand his extradition. They carried, he said, not the peaceful cane with +the gold or silver head, but the mysterious 'Gold Axe.' Opinions at once +differed as to the import and object of this absurd implement. According +to some its mission portended war, and it had preceded the campaigns of +1863 and 1873. Others declared that it signified a serious 'palaver,' +being a strong hint that the King would cut through and down every +obstacle. Strange to say, the first Ashanti messengers were never called +upon to explain before the public what the 'Gold Axe' really did mean. + +The Colonial Office acted with spirit and wholesome vigour. It was urged +on by Mr. Griffith, whose energetic reports certainly saved the +Protectorate grave troubles. He has thereby incurred much blame, ridicule, +and obloquy; nor has he received due credit from those under whom he +served. + +The newly-appointed Governor and Commander-in-Chief of the Gold Coast, Sir +Samuel Rowe, at once ordered out to relieve Mr. Griffith, left England in +mid-February. He was accompanied by a staff of seven officers temporarily +employed. Reinforcements were hurried from Sierra Leone and the West +Indies. The Admiralty was applied to for the reunion of cruisers upon the +Gold Coast waters. Estimates of native allies were drawn up, showing that +20,000 half-armed men could be brought into the field against the 30,000 +of Ashanti. The loyal and powerful chief Kwamina Blay, of Atabo, in +Amrehia, or Western Apollonia, offered 6,000 muskets, and an additional +1,000 hands if the Government would supply arms and ammunition. + +On January 19 the ambassador with the 'Gold Axe' presented himself at +Elmina. He was accompanied by Saibi Enkwia, who had signed the treaty at +Fomana, a village in Assin, between Kumasi and the Bosom Prah River. The +envoy formally demanded possession of Prince Owusu and of one Amangkra, an +Ashanti trader who had aided him to escape. Saibi Enkwia added by way of +threat, 'The King said, if the Governor would not order the return of +Owusu to Kumasi, he would attack the Assins.' He further explained that +these Assins were the people who always caused 'palavers' between the +Ashantis and the Protectorate, to which they belonged. + +Naturally the ignominious demand was refused. The messengers left for +Kumasi, and Lieutenant-Governor Griffith telegraphed from Madeira to +England (January 25), 'War imminent with Ashanti.' It was considered +suspicious that all the inlanders were disappearing from the coast. This +was afterwards explained: they were flocking north for the 'native +Christmas,' the Yam-custom, or great festival of the year. + +Our preparations were pushed forward the more energetically as time +appeared to be tight. The Ashantis were buying up all the weapons they +could find when the sale of arms, ammunition, and salt was prohibited. +Detachments were despatched to the Mansu and Prahsu stations; the latter +is upon the Bosom (Abosom, or Sacred) Prah, the frontier between Ashanti +and the Protectorate, to cross which is to 'pass the Rubicon.' Here, as at +other main fords and ferries, defensive works were laid out. Arrangements +were made for holding nine out of the eighteen forts, abandoning the rest; +and Accra was strengthened as the central place. The 'companies,' or +'native levies,' who, with a suspicious unanimity, applied for guns and +gunpowder, lead and flints, were urged to the 'duty of defence.' Five +cruisers, under Commander (now Captain, R.N.) J. W. Brackenbury, were +stationed off the three chief castles, Elmina, Cape Coast, and Anamabo, +and the naval contingent was drilled daily on shore. The Haussa +constabulary was reinforced. The First West India Regiment sent down men +from Sierra Leone, and the Second 500 rank and file from Barbadoes. In +fact, such ardour was shown that the Ashantis, scared out of their +intentions of scaring, began to fear another English invasion. 'The white +men intend to take Kumasi again!' they said; and perhaps the reflection +that 48,000 ounces of gold were still due to us suggested a motive. They +had been making ready for offence; now they prepared for defence. + +About mid-February the 'situation' notably changed. Messieurs Buck and +Huppenbauer, two German missionaries who were making a 'preaching-tour,' +reported from Kumasi that King Mensah was afraid of war, and that his +kingdom was 'on the point to go asunder.' The despot, with African +wiliness, at once threw the blame of threatening Assin upon his confidant, +Saibi Enkwia. No one believed that an Ashantiman would thus expose himself +to certain death; but the explanation served for an excuse. The King also +asserted that his 'Gold Axe' meant simply nothing. Thereupon the officials +of the Protectorate began looking forward to an ample apology, and to a +fine of gold-dust for the disturbing of their quiet days. In fact, they +foresaw 'peace with honour.' + +Governor Sir Samuel Rowe, with his usual good fortune, landed at Elmina on +March 9, exactly the right time. The attempt to intimidate had ignobly +failed, and had recoiled upon the attempter. King Mensah, in order to +remove all suspicions of intending a campaign, had resolved to send +coastwards the most important and ceremonious mission of the age. It was +to conclude a kind of _Paix des Dames_. Queen Kokofu had threatened that +in case of hostilities she would go over to the British. The Queen-mother, +a power in the country, which has often kept the peace for it and plunged +it into war, threatened to take her own life--and here such threats are +always followed by action. In fact, the peace-party had utterly overthrown +the war-party. + +The mission left Kumasi in May. It was headed by Prince Bwaki, step-father +to the two royal brothers, Kofi Kalkali and Kwabina Osai Mensah, and the +number as well as the high rank of the retinue made it remarkable. At +Prahsu, where the envoys were met by Governor Rowe, a preliminary +conversation took place. Despite the usual African and barbarian fencing +and foiling, the Englishman carried the day; the message must be delivered +with all publicity and proper ceremony in the old 'palaver-hall' of +historic Elmina Castle. + +A conclusive interview took place on May 30. Prince Bwaki explained that +'mistakes had been made, but that the mistakes had not been alone those of +his king and son-in-law.' He declared that the messenger, Saibi Enkwia, +had exceeded his powers in threatening Assin. The King, he said, had sworn +by 'God and earth,' that is, by the 'spirits' above and by the ghosts +below, that he had sent no such message. At the same time the King +confessed being partly to blame, as the message had been delivered by his +own servant. In the matter of the 'Gold Axe,' however, the mistake was the +mistake of the Lieutenant-Governor (Griffith). + +The Prince further explained that Ashanti has two symbols of war, a +peculiar sword and a certain cap; whereas the 'Gold Axe' being 'fetish' +and endowed with some magical and mysterious power, is never sent on a +hostile errand. He offered, in the King's name, as further evidence of +friendly feeling, to surrender the 'so-called Golden Axe,' which important +symbol of Ashanti power had been forwarded from head-quarters with an +especial mission. It was delivered on the express understanding that it +should be despatched to England for the acceptance of H.B. Majesty, and +not be kept upon the coast, exposed to the ribaldry of the hostile Fantis. +The weapon, said Prince Bwaki, is so old that no one knows its origin, and +it is held so precious that in processions it precedes the Great Royal +Stool, or throne, of Ashanti. The leopard-skin, bound with gold upon the +handle, symbolises courage in the field; the gold is wealth, and the iron +is strength. + +Finally, the unhappy 'Gold Axe,' after being publicly paraded upon a +velvet cushion through the streets of Elmina, was entrusted to Captain +Knapp Barrow, who returned to England by the next steamer. It was duly +presented, and found its way to the South Kensington Museum, after faring +very badly at the hands of the 'society journals' and other members of the +fourth estate. [Footnote: For instance: 'The gold axe of King Koffee of +Ashantee, lately sent, for an unexplained reason, to the Queen, is +described as a triangular blade of iron, apparently out from a piece of +boiler-plate, roughly stuck into a clumsy handle of African oak. The +handle is covered with leopard-skin, part of which, immediately above the +blade, is deeply soiled, apparently with blood. Bands of thin gold, +enriched with uncouth chevrons and lunettes _en repousse_, are placed +round the handle. The sheath of the blade, which is of tiger (leopard) +skin, accompanies this hideous implement, and attached to it is the sole +element which has anything like artistic merit. This is a nondescript +object of beaten gold, in shape something like a large cockle-shell with +curved horns extending from the hinge, and not inelegantly decorated with +lines and punctures, _en repousse_ and open work of quasi-scrolls.'] +Needless to say it was an utter impostor. The real Golden Axe is great +'fetish,' and never leaves either Kumasi or, indeed, the presence of the +King. + +The ceremony of delivering the message in the palaver-hall was +satisfactory. Prince Bwaki grasped the knees of Governor Rowe, the +official sign of kneeling. He expressed the devotion of his liege lord to +the Majesty of England; and finally he offered to pay down at once two +thousand ounces of gold in proof of Ashantian sincerity. All these +transactions were duly recorded; the promises in the form of a bond. + +The play was now played out; cruisers and troops dispersed, and golden +Peace reigned once more supreme. Prince Owusu, a drunken, dissolute +Eupatrid, who had caused the flutter, when ordered on board a man-of-war +for transportation to a place of safety, relieved the Gold Coast from +further trouble. He was found hanging in the 'bush' behind Elmina Castle. +Most men supposed it to be a case of suicide; a few of course surmised +that he had been kidnapped and murdered by orders from Kumasi. + +Since that time to the present day our Protectorate has been free from +'scare.' The affair, as it happened, did abundant good by banishing all +fear for the safety of the Wasa (Wassaw) diggings. During the worst times +not a single English employe of the mines had left his post to take refuge +in the Axim fort. This does them honour, as some of the establishments lay +within handy distance of the ferocious black barbarians. + +The native chiefs, especially 'King Blay,' proved themselves able and +willing to aid us in whatever difficulties might occur. The kingdom of +Gyaman further showed that it can hold its own against shorn Ashanti, or +rather that it is becoming the more powerful of the two. The utter failure +of the scare is an earnest that, under normal circumstances, while King +Mensah, a middle-aged man, occupies the 'stool,' we shall hear no more of +'threatened Ashanti invasions.' + +But the true way to pacify the despotism is to allow Ashanti to 'make a +beach'--in other words, to establish a port. This measure I have supported +for the last score of years, but to very little purpose. The lines of +objection are two. The first is in the mercantile. As all the world knows, +commercial interests are sure to be supported against almost any other in +a reformed House of Commons; and, in the long run, they gain the day. The +Coast-tribes under our protection are mere brokers and go-betweens, backed +up and supported by the wholesale merchant, because he prefers _quieta non +movere_, and he fears lest the change be from good to bad. I, on the other +hand, contend that both our commerce and customs would gain, in quantity +as well as in quality, by direct dealings with the peoples of the +interior. The second, or sentimental, line belongs to certain newspapers; +and even _their_ intelligence can hardly believe the _ad captandum_ +farrago which they indite. The favourite 'bunkum' is about 'baring the +Christian negro's throat to the Ashanti knife.' But the Fantis and other +Coast-tribes were originally as murderous and bloodthirsty in their +battles and religious rites as their northern neighbours: if there be any +improvement it is wholly due to the presence and the pressure, physical as +well as moral, of Europeans--of Christians, if you like. Even Whydah is +not blood-stained like Agbome, because it has been occupied by a few +slavers, white and brown. Why, then, should the Ashantis be refused the +opportunity and the means of amendment? Ten years' experience in Africa +teaches me that they would be as easily reformed as the maritime peoples; +and it is evident that the sentimentalist, if he added honesty and common +sense to the higher quality, should be the first to advocate the trial. + +But I would not allow the Ashantis to hold a harbour anywhere near Elmina. +They should have their 'mile' and beach east of the Volta River, where +they would soon effect a lodgment, despite all the opposition of their +sanguinary friends and our ferocious enemies the Awunah and the Krepi +(Crepee) savages. + +I will end this paper with a short notice of the kingdom of Gyaman, +generally written Gaman and too often pronounced 'Gammon.' Its strength +and vigour are clearly increasing; it is one of the richest of +gold-fields, and it lies directly upon the route to the interior. Of late +years it has almost faded from the map, but it is described at full length +in the pages of Barbot (1700) and Bosman (1727), of Bowdich (1818), and of +Dupuis (1824). They assign to it for limits Mandenga-land to the north and +west; to the south, Aowin and Bassam, and the Tando or eastern fork of the +Assini to the east. This Tando, which some moderns have represented as an +independent stream, divides it from Ashanti-land, lying to the south and +the south-east. Dupuis places the old capital, Bontuko, whence the Gyamans +were formerly called 'Bontukos,' eight stages north-west of Kumasi; and +the new capital, Huraboh, five marches beyond Bontuko. The country, level +and grassy, begins the region north of the great forest-zone which +subtends the maritime mangrove swamps. It breeds horses and can command +Moslem allies, equestrian races feared by the Ashantis. + +The Gyamans, according to their tradition, migrated, or rather were +driven, southwards from their northern homes. This was also, as I have +said, the case with the Fantis and Ashantis; the latter occupied their +present habitat about 1640, and at once became the foes of all their +neighbours. King Osai Tutu, 'the Great,' first of Ashanti despot-kings +(1719), made Gyaman tributary. The conquest was completed by his +brother-successor, Osai Apoko (1731), who fined Abo, the neighbour-king, +in large sums of gold and fixed an annual subsidy. Gyaman, however, +rebelled against Osai Kwajo (Cudjoe), the fourth of the dynasty (1752), +and twice defeated him with prodigious slaughter. The Ashanti invader +brought to his aid Moslem cavalry, and succeeded in again subjugating the +insurgents. The conquered took no action against the fifth king, but they +struck for independence under Osai Apoko II (1797). Aided by Moslem and +other allies, they crossed the Tando and fought so sturdily that the enemy +'liberally bestowed upon them the titles of warlike and courageous.' The +Ashantis at length compelled the Moslems of their country to join them, +and ended by inflicting a crushing defeat upon the invaders. + +Osai Tutu Kwamina, on coming to the throne (1800), engaged in the campaign +against Gyaman called, for distinction, the 'first Bontuko war.' He +demanded from King Adinkara his ancestral and royal stool, which was +thickly studded and embossed with precious metal. The craven yielded it +and purchased peace. His brave sister presently replaced it by a seat of +solid gold: this the Ashanti again requisitioned, together with a large +gold ornament in the shape of an elephant, said to have been dug from some +ruins. The Amazon replied, with some detail and in the 'spade' language, +that she and her brother should exchange sexes, and that she would fight +_a l'outrance_; whereupon the Ashanti, with many compliments about her +bravery, gave her twelve months to prepare for a campaign. + +In 1818 Dupuis found Ashanti engaged in the 'second Bontuko war' with +Adinkara, who had again thrown off his allegiance. But small-pox was +raging in the capital, and this campaign ended (1819-20) with the defeat +and death of the womanly monarch, with a massacre of 10,000 prisoners, and +with the sale of 20,000 captives. Thus Gyaman was again annexed to +Ashanti-land as a province, instead of enjoying the rank of a tributary +kingdom; and the conqueror's dominions extended from Cape Lahou (W. long. +4ş 36') through Gyaman to the Volta River (E. long. 0ş 42' 18"), a +coast-line of some 318 direct geographical miles. + +Gyaman, however, seems to have had a passion for liberty. She fought again +and again to recover what she had lost in 1820; and, on more occasions +than one, she was successful in battle. During the 'Ashanti scare' the +sturdy kingdom was preparing for serious hostilities; and a little war of +six or seven months had already been waged between the neighbours. The +late Prince Owusu, before mentioned, deposed before the authorities of our +Protectorate as follows: 'At Kumasi I was ordered to eat the skull of the +late King of Gyaman, which was kept there as a trophy from the conquest of +Gyaman; but I did not do it.' He also asserted that, in 1879, a white man, +Nielson, and his interpreter, Huydecooper, had been sent by an intriguer +to Gyaman, bearing a pretended message from the British Government and the +Fanti chiefs, enjoining the King to conclude peace with the Ashantis, and +to restore their 3,700 captives. Neither of these men saw the ruler of +Gyaman, and it is believed that Nielson, having begun a quarrel by firing +upon the people, was killed in the fray. + +At this moment Gyaman is battling with her old enemies, and threatens to +be a dangerous rival, if not a conqueror. Here, then, we may raise a +strong barrier against future threats of Ashanti invasion, and make +security more secure. The political officers of the Protectorate will be +the best judges of the steps to be taken; and, if they are active and +prudent, we shall hear no more of the Kumasi bugbear. + + * * * * * + +Sec.2. THE LABOUR-QUESTION IN WESTERN AFRICA. + +In their present condition our African colonies are colonies only because +they are administered by the Colonial Office. + +Most of these stations--for such they should be termed--were established, +for slaving purposes, by the Portuguese, and were conquered by the Dutch. +Thence they passed into the hands of England, who vigorously worked the +black _traite_ for the benefit of her West Indian possessions. + +The 'colonies' in question, however, saw their occupation gone with negro +emancipation, and they became mere trading-ports and posts for collecting +ground-nuts, palm-oil, and gold-dust. Philanthropy and freedom expected +from them great things; but instead of progressing they have gradually and +surely declined. The public calls them 'pest-houses,' and the Government +pronounces them a 'bore.' Travellers propose to make them over to Liberia +or to any Power that will accept such white elephants. + +Remains now the task of placing upon the path of progress these wretched +West African 'colonies,' and of making them a credit and a profit to +England, instead of a burden and an opprobrium. + +Immigration, I find, is _le mot de l'enigme_. + +Between 1860 and 1865 I studied the labour-question in West Africa, and my +short visit in 1882 has convinced me that it is becoming a vital matter +for our four unfortunate establishments, Bathurst, Sierra Leone, the Gold +Coast, and Lagos. + +A score of years ago many agreed with me that there was only one solution +for our difficulties, a system of extensive coolie-importation. But in +those days of excited passions and divided interests, when the export +slave-trade and the _emigration libre_ were still rampant on either coast, +it was by no means easy to secure a fair hearing from the public. Not a +small nor an uninfluential section, the philanthropic and the missionary, +raised and maintained the cuckoo-cry, 'Africa for the Africans!'--worthy +of its successor, 'Ireland for the Irish!' Others believed in imported +labour, which has raised so many regions to the height of prosperity; but +they did not see how to import it. And the general _vis inertiae_, peculiar +to hepatic tropical settlements, together with the unwillingness, or +rather the inability, to undertake anything not absolutely necessary, made +many of the colonists look upon the proposal rather as a weariness to the +flesh than a benefit. A chosen few steadily looked forward to it; but they +contented themselves with a theoretical prospect, and, perhaps wisely, did +not attempt action. + +The condition of the Coast, however, has radically changed during the last +two decades. The export slave-trade has died the death, never to +'resurrect.' The immense benefits of immigration are known to all men, +theoretically and practically. India and China have thrown open their +labour-markets. And, finally, the difficulty of finding hands, for +agriculture especially, in Western Africa has now come to a crisis. + +Here I must be allowed a few words of preliminary explanation. In this +matter, the reverse of Europe, Africa, whose social system is built upon +slavery, holds field-work, and indeed all manual labour, degrading to the +free man. The idea of a 'bold peasantry, its country's pride,' is utterly +alien to Nigritia. The husband hunts, fights, and trades--that is to say, +peddles--he leaves sowing and reaping to his wives and his chattels. Even +a slave will rather buy him a slave than buy his own liberty. 'I am free +enough,' he says; 'all I want is a fellow to serve me.' The natives of the +Dark Continent are perfectly prepared to acknowledge that work is a curse; +and, so far scripturally, they deem + + Labour the symbol of man's punishment. + +No Spaniard of the old school would despise more than a negro those +new-fangled notions glorifying work now familiar to stirring and bustling +North Europe. Nor will these people exert themselves until, like the +Barbadians, they must either sweat or starve. Example may do something to +stir them, but the mere preaching of industry is hopeless. I repeat: their +_beau ideal_ of life is to do nothing for six days in the week and to rest +on the seventh. They are quite prepared to keep, after their fashion, 365 +sabbaths per annum. + +In the depths of Central Africa, where a European shows a white face for +the first time, the wildest tribes hold markets once or twice a week; +these meetings on the hillside or the lake-bank are crowded, and the din +and excitement are extreme. Armed men, women, and children may be seen +dragging sheep and goats, or sitting under a mat-shade through the +livelong days before their baskets and bits of native home-spun, the whole +stock in trade consisting perhaps of a few peppers, a heap of palm-nuts, +or strips of manioc, like pipe-clay. This savage scene is reflected in the +comparatively civilised stations all down the West African coast, where +the inexperienced and ardent philanthrope is apt to suppose that the lazy, +feckless habits are not nature-implanted but contracted by contact with a +more advanced stage of society. + +Again, in many parts of Africa the richest lands, and those most +favourably situated, are either uninhabited or thinly peopled, the result +of intestine wars or of the export slave-trade. Mr. Administrator +Goulsbury, of Bathurst, during his adventurous march from the Gambia to +the Sierra Leone River, crossed league after league of luxuriant ground +and found it all desert. He says, [Footnote: Blue Book of 1882, quoted in +Chap. X.] 'I think the fact has never been sufficiently recognised that +Africa, and especially the west coast of the continent, is but very +sparsely populated.... It is not only very limited, but is, I believe, if +not stationary, actually decreasing in numbers.... I commend this fact to +the consideration of those who indulge in day-dreams as to the almost +unlimited increase of commerce which they fondly imagine is to be the +result and reward of opening up the interior of the country.' + +In regions richer than the Upper Gambia the disappearance of man is ever +followed by a springing of bush and forest so portentous that a few hands +are helpless and hopeless. Such is the case with the great wooded belt +north of the Gold Coast, where even the second-growth becomes impenetrable +without the matchet, and where the swamps and muds, bred and fed by +torrential rains, bar the transit of travellers. The Whydah and Gaboon +countries are notable specimens of once populous regions now all but +deserted. + +Nothing more surprising, to men who visit Africa for the first time, than +the over-wealth of labour in Madeira and its penury on the Western Coast. +At Bathurst they find ships loading or unloading by the work of the Golah +women, whose lazy husbands live upon the hardly-earned wage. They see the +mail-steamers landing ton after ton of Chinese rice shipped _via_ England. +The whole country with its humid surface and its reeking, damp-hot climate +is a natural rice-bed. The little grain produced by it is far better than +the imported, but there are no hands to work the ground. It is the same +with salt, which is cheaper when brought from England: no man has the +energy to lay out a salina; and, if he did, its outlay, under 'Free +Trade,' would be greater than its income. + +Steaming along the picturesque face of the Sierra Leone peninsula, the +stranger remarks with surprise that its most fertile ridges and slopes +hardly show a field, much less a farm, and that agriculture is confined to +raising a little garden-stuff for the town-market. The peasant, the hand, +is at a discount. The Sierra Leonite is a peddler-born who aspires to be a +trader, a merchant; or he looks to a learned profession, especially the +law. The term 'gentleman-farmer' has no meaning for him. Of late years a +forcing process has been tried, and a few plantations have been laid out, +chiefly for the purpose, it would appear, of boasting and of vaunting the +new-grown industry at home. Mr. Henry M. Stanley remarks [Footnote: +_Coomassie and Magdala_, p. 8], 'In almost every street in Sierra Leone I +heard the voice of praise and local prayer from the numerous aspirants to +clerkships and civil service employ; but I am compelled to deny that I +ever heard the sound of mallet and chisel, of mortar, pestle, and trowel, +the ringing sound of hammer on anvil, or roar of forge, which, to my +practical mind, would have had a far sweeter sound. There is virgin land +in the neighbourhood of Sierra Leone yet untilled; there are buildings in +the town yet unfinished; there are roads for commerce yet to be made; the +trade of the African interior yet waits to be admitted into the capacious +harbour of Sierra Leone for the enrichment of the fond nursing-mother of +races who sits dreamily teaching her children how to cackle instead of how +to work.' + +The same apathy to agriculture prevails in Liberia. For the last forty +years large plantations have been laid out on the noble St. Paul River +between Cape Mount and Mount Mesurado. The coffee-shrub, like the +copal-tree, belts Africa from east to west--from Harar, where I saw it, +through Karague, where it grows wild, the bean not being larger than a +pin's head, to Manywema, in the Congo valley, and to the West Coast, +especially about the Rio Nunez, north of Sierra Leone. It is of the finest +quality, second only to the Mocha; but what hope is there of its +development? The Vay tribe, which holds the land, is useless; the rare new +comers from America will work, but the older settlers will not; and there +is hardly money enough to pay Krumen. + +On the Gold Coast there is no exceptional scarcity of population: under +normal circumstances, the labour-market is sufficiently supplied, but a +strain soon exhausts it. Sir Garnet Wolseley found his greatest difficulty +in the want of workmen: he was obliged to apply for 500 British navvies; +and, at one time, he thought of converting the first and second West India +Regiments, with Wood's and Russell's men, into carriers. On the other +hand, the conduct of the women was admirable; as the conqueror said in the +Mansion House, he hardly wondered at the King of Dahome keeping up a corps +of 'Amazons.' I shall presently return to the gold-mines. + +At Lagos M. Colonna, Consular Agent for France, informs me that by his +firm alone 600 hands are wanted for field-service, and that the number +might rise to a thousand. He would also be glad to hire artisans, +blacksmiths and carpenters, masons and market-gardeners. The Yorubas from +the upper country, who will engage for three years, demand from a franc to +a shilling per diem, rations not given. Labour ranges from sixteen to +twenty-four francs per mensem; and coolies could not command more than +twenty-five francs, including 'subsistence.' Here Kruboys are much used. +M. Colonna pays his first-class per mensem $5 (each =5 francs 20 +centimes), his second class $4, and his third $3. Returning to the Gold +Coast, I find two classes of working men, the country-people and the +Kruboys: the Sierra Leonites are too few to be taken into consideration. +At present, when there are only five working mines, none of which are +properly manned, labour is plentiful and cheap. It will be otherwise when +the number increases, as it will soon do, to fifty and a hundred. Upwards +of seventy concessions have already been granted, and I know one house +which has, or soon will have, half a dozen ready for market. Then natives +and Kruboys will strike for increased wages till even diamond-mines would +not pay. The Gold Coast contains rich placers in abundance: if they fail +it will be for want of hands, or because the cost of labour will swallow +up profits. + +The country-people, Fantis, Accra-men, Apollonians of Bein, and others, +will work, and are well acquainted with gold-working. But they work in +their own way; and, save under exceptional conditions, they are incapable +of regular and continuous labour. It gives one the heart-ache to see their +dawdling, idling, shuffling, shiftless style of spoiling time. They are +now taking to tribute, piece and contract work. The French mines supply +them with tools and powder, and, by way of pay and provisions, allow them +to keep two-thirds of the produce. It is evident that such an arrangement +will be highly profitable to the hands who will 'pick the eyes out of the +mine,' and who will secrete all the richest stuff, leaving the poorest to +their employers. No amount of European surveillance will suffice to +prevent free gold in stone being stolen. Hence the question will arise +whether, despite the price of transport, reduction in England will not pay +better. + +The Kruboys in the north and the Kabinda boys in the south have been +described as the Irishmen of West Africa: they certainly do the most work; +and trading-ships would find it almost impossible to trade without them. +During the last twenty years they have not improved in efficiency even on +board men-of-war. In 1861-65 the gangs with their headmen willingly +engaged for three years. Now they enlist only for a year; they carefully +keep tallies, and after the tenth monthly cut they begin to apply for +leave. Thus the men's services are lost just as they are becoming +valuable. It is the same with the Accra-men. When the mines learn the +simple lesson _l'union fait la force_ they will combine not to engage +Krumen for less than two years. + +There are two great centres at which Kruboys are hired. The first is +Sierra Leone, where they demand from all employers what the +mail-steamers pay--the headmen half-a-crown and the hands a shilling a +day besides rations. The second is the Kru coast. In 1850 the 'boys' +received 5_s._ per mensem in goods, which reduced it to 3_s._ They had +also daily rice-rations, 'Sunday beef,' and, at times, a dash of +tobacco, a cap, a blanket or a waist-cloth. In 1860 the hire rose to +9_s._ in kind, or 4_s._ 6_d._ in coin. About this time cruisers began to +pay them the monthly wages of ordinary seamen, 1_l._ 10s., with white +man's rations or compensation-money, amounting to another 12_l._ a year. +In 1882 headmen engage for the Oil Rivers at 1_l._, and 'boys' for +10_s._ to 12_s._ For the gold-mines of Wasa they have learned to demand +1_s._ 3_d._ per diem, and at the cheapest 1_l._ a month, the headmen +receiving double. + +The Kru-market does not supply more than 4,000 hands, and yet it is +already becoming 'tight.' In a few years demand will be excessive. + +[Footnote: The usual estimate of the Kru-hands employed out of their own +country is as follows:-- +For the Oil Rivers: + 150 each for Brass and Bonny, New Calabar and Camarones; + 150-200 for the Niger, and + 150 for Fernando Po and the Portuguese Islands 1200-1500 +At Lagos 1000 +On board the 25 Bristol ships, at 20 each 500 +For nine to ten ships of war 200 +For ten mail-steamers 200 +In the mines: (May, 1882) + Izrah 7, Akankon 14, Effuenta 120, + the two French companies 200, the Gold Coast 100, + and Crockerville 20 461 + ---- + Total 3861; say 4000] + +The following notes were given to me by the managers of mines, whom I +consulted upon the subject. + +Mr. Crocker prefers Fantis, Elminas, and others; and he can hire as many +as he wants; at Cape Coast Castle alone there are some eighty hands now +unemployed. He pays 36_s._, without rations, per month of four weeks. He +has about a score of Kruboys, picked up 'on the beach;' these are +fellows who have lost all their money, and who dare not go home +penniless. Their headman receives per mens. $3.50, and in exceptional +cases $4. The better class of 'boys' get from $2.50 to $3; and lesser +sums are given to the 'small boys,' whose principal work is stealing, +skulking. + +Mr. Creswick has a high opinion of Krumen working in the mines, and has +found sundry of them to develop into excellent mechanics. The men want +only good management. Under six Europeans, himself included, he employs a +hundred hands, and from eight to ten mechanics. The first headman draws +37_s_. 6_d_., the second 22_s_., full-grown labourers 18_s_., and 'small +boys' from 4_s_. to 6_s_. and 9_s_. + +Mechanics' wages range between 1_l_. 5_s_. and 4_l_. All have rations or +'subsistence,' which here means 3_d_. a day. + +Mr. MacLennan has a few Fanti miners, whom he pays at the rate of 6_d_. +per half-day. His full muster of Krumen is 120; the headmen receive 27_s_. +6_d_., rising, after six months, to 35_s_. The first class of common boys +get 20_s_.; the second from 13_s_. 6_d_. to 15_s_.; and the third, mostly +'small boys,' between 5_s_. and 10_s_. His carpenters and blacksmiths, who +are Gold Coasters and Sierra Leonites, draw from 2_l_. 10_s_. to 3_l_. The +rations are, as usual, 1-1/2 lb. of rice per day, with 1 lb. of 'Sunday +beef,' whose brine is converted into salt. + +Mr. A. Bowden, manager of the Takwa and Abosu Mines, also employs a +'mixed multitude.' His Sierra Leone carpenters and blacksmiths draw +3_l._ 10_s._ to 4_l._ 10_s._ per month without rations, and his native +mechanics 3_l._ to 3_l._ 10_s._ The Fanti labourers are paid, as usual, +a shilling per diem and find themselves. The Kruboys, besides being +lodged and fed (1-1/2 lb. rice per day and 1 lb. beef or fish per week), +draw in money as follows: headman, 2_l_.; second ditto, 1_l_. 7s. to +1_l_. 12_s._; miners, 18_s._ to 20_s._ and labourers 9_s._ to 16_s._ + +This state of the labour-market is, I have said, purely provisional. It +will not outlast the time when the present concessions are in full +exploitation; and this condition of things I hope soon to see. We can then +draw from the neighbouring countries, from Yoruba to the north-east, and +perhaps, but this is doubtful, from the Baasas [Footnote: A manly and +powerful race, who call themselves Americans and will have nothing to do +with the English.] and the Drewins to the west. But we must come, sooner +or later, and the sooner the better, to a regular coolie-immigration, East +African, Indian, and Chinese. + +The benefit of such an influx must not be measured merely by the +additional work of a few thousand hands. It will at once create jealousy, +competition, rivalry. It will teach by example--the only way of teaching +Africans--that work is not ignoble, but that it is ignoble to earn a +shilling and to live idle on three-pence a day till the pence are +exhausted. Its advantages will presently be felt along the whole western +coast, and men will wonder why it was not thought of before. The French, +as they are wont to do in these days, have set us an example. Already in +early 1882 the papers announced that a first cargo of 178 +Chinese--probably from Cochin-China--had been landed at Saint-Louis de +Senegal for the proposed Senegambian railway. + +The details of such an immigration and the measures which it will require +do not belong to this place. Suffice it to say that we can draw freely +upon the labour-banks of Macao, Bombay, and Zanzibar. The intelligent, +thrifty, and industrious Chinese will learn mining here, as they have +learnt it elsewhere, with the utmost readiness. The 'East Indian' will be +well adapted for lighter work of the garden and the mines. Finally, the +sturdy Wasawahili of the East African coast will do, as carriers and +labourers, three times the work of Pantis and Apollonians. + +I need hardly say that Captain Cameron and I would like nothing better +than to organise a movement of this kind; we would willingly do more good +to the West African coast than the whole tribe of its so-called +benefactors. + + + + +Sec.3. GOLD-DIGGING IN NORTH-WESTERN AFRICA. + +_a. Sketch of its Origin_. + +The mineral wealth of Central Africa has still to be studied; at present +we are almost wholly ignorant of it. We know, however, that the outlying +portions of the Continent contain three distinct and grand centres of +mining-industry. The first worked is the north-eastern corner--in fact, +the Nile-valley and its adjacencies, where Fayzoghlu still supplies the +noble metal. The second, also dating from immense antiquity, is the whole +West African coast from Morocco to the Guinea Gulf, both included. The +third and last, the south-eastern gold-fields, have been discovered by the +Portuguese in comparatively modern days. + +In this paper I propose to treat only of the western field. Its +exploitation began early enough to be noticed by Herodotus, the oldest of +Greek prose-writers. He tells us (lib. iv. 196, &c.) that the +Carthaginians received gold from a black people, whose caravans crossed +the Sahara, or Great Desert, and that they traded for it with the wild +tribes of the West Coast. His words are as follows:--'There is a land in +Libya, and a nation beyond the Pillars of Hercules [the Straits of +'Gib.'], which they [the Carthaginians] are wont to visit, where they no +sooner arrive but forthwith they break cargo; and, having disposed their +wares in an orderly way along the beach, leave them, and, returning aboard +their ships, raise a great smoke. + +'The natives, when they see the smoke, come down to the shore, and, laying +out to view so much gold as they think the worth of the wares, withdraw +themselves afar. The Carthaginians upon this come ashore and look. If they +deem the gold sufficient they take it and wend their way; but if it does +not seem to them sufficient, they go aboard once more and wait patiently. +Then the others draw near and add to their gold till the Carthaginians are +content. Neither party deals unfairly by the other; for they themselves +never touch the gold till it comes up to the worth of their goods, nor do +the natives ever carry off the goods till the gold is taken away.' + +Plato ('Critias' [Footnote: The celebrated Dialogue which treats of +Altantis and describes cocoas as the 'fruits having a hard rind, affording +drinks and meats and ointments.']) may refer to this dumb trade when he +tells us, 'Never was prince more wealthy than Atlas [eldest son of +Poseidon by Cleito]. His land was fertile, healthy, beautiful, marvellous; +it was terminated by a range of gold-yielding mountains.' Lyon, speaking +of the western Sudan, uses almost the very words of Herodotus. 'An +invisible nation, according to our informant, inhabit near this place, and +are said to trade by night. Those who come to traffic for their gold lay +their merchandise in heaps and retire. In the morning they find a certain +quantity of gold-dust placed against every heap, which if they think +sufficient they leave the goods; if not, they let both remain till more of +the precious ore is added' (p. 149). [Footnote: Shaw gives a similar +account (_Travels_, p. 302).] + +The classical trade in gold and slaves was diligently prosecuted by the +Arabs or Saracens after Mohammed's day. Their caravans traversed the great +wilderness which lies behind the fertile Mediterranean shore, and founded +negroid empires in the western Sudan, or Blackland. Ghana, whence, +perhaps, the Portuguese Guine and our Guinea of 'the dreadful mortal +name,' became the great gold-mart of the day. Famous in history is its +throne, a worked nugget of solid gold, weighing 30 lbs. It has been +rivalled in modern times by the 'stool' of Bontuko (Gyaman), and by the +'Hundredweight of gold' produced by New South Wales. Most of the wealth +came from a district to the south-west, Wangara, Ungura, or Unguru, +bordering on the Niger, and supposed to correspond with modern +Mandenga-land. In the lowlands, after the annual floods, the natives dug +and washed the diluvial deposits for the precious metal exactly as is now +done upon the Gold Coast; and they burrowed into the highlands which +surround in crescent-form the head-waters of the great River Joliba. +Presently Tinbukhtu succeeded, according to Leo Africanus (1500), Ghana as +the converging point of the trade, and made the name for wealth which +endures even to the present day. Its princes and nobles lavishly employed +the precious ore in ornaments, some weighing 1,300 ounces. + +In due time the Moroccan Arabs were succeeded by their doughty rivals, the +Portuguese of the heroic ages of D. D. Joao II. and Manoel. I here pass +over the disputed claim of the French, who declare that they imported the +metal from 'Elmina' as early as 1382. [Footnote: See Chapter II.] The +first gold was discovered on his second voyage by Goncalo Baldeza (1442) +at the Rio de Ouro, the classical Lixus and the modern El-Kus, famed for +the defeat and death of Dom Sebastiam. [Footnote: I have noticed it in +_Camoens, his Life and his Lusiads_, vol ii. chapter iii. The +identification with the Rio de Onro is that of Bowdich (p. 505). Another +Rio de Ouro was visited in 1860 by Captain George Peacock (before alluded +to), 'having a French frigate under his orders.' The 'River of Gold' of +course would become a favourite and a banal name.] + +In 1470 Joao de Santarem and Pero d'Escobar, knights of the King, sailed +past Cape Falmas, discovered the islands of Sao Thome and Annobom (January +1, 1471); and, on their return homewards, found a trade in gold-dust at +the village of Sama (Chamah) and on the site which we miscall 'Elmina.' +[Footnote: This form of the word, a masculine article with a feminine +noun, cannot exist in any of the neo-Latin languages. In Italian and +Spanish it would be La Mina, in Portuguese A Mina. The native name is Dina +or Edina.] During the same year Fernan' Gomez, a worthy of Lisbon, bought +a five years' monopoly of the gold-trade from the King, paying 44_l._ 9_s._ +par annum, and binding himself to explore, every year, 300 miles down +coast from Sierra Leone. One of these expeditions landed at 'Elmina' and +discovered Cape Catherine in south latitude 1ş 50' and west longitude +(Gr.) 9ş 2'. The rich mines opened at Little Kommenda, or Aprobi, led to +the building of the Fort Sao Jorje da Mina, by Diego d'Azembuja, sent out +(A.D. 1481) to superintend the construction. But about 1622 the falling in +of some unbraced and untimbered shafts and the deaths of many miners +induced Gweffa, the King, to 'put gold in Fetish,' making it an accursed +thing; and it has not been worked since that time. + +Thus Portugal secured to herself the treasures which made her the +wealthiest of European kingdoms. But when she became a province of Spain, +under D. Philip II., her Eastern conquests were systematically neglected +in favour of the Castilian colonies that studded the New World. The weak +Lusitanian garrisons were massacred on the Gold Coast, as in other parts +of Africa; and the Hollanders, the 'Water-beggars,' who had conquered +their independence from Spain, proceeded to absorb the richest possessions +of their quondam rivals. 'Elmina,' the capital, fell into Dutch hands +(1637), and till 1868 Holland retained her forts and factories on the Gold +Coast. + +In their turn the English and the French, who had heard of the fabulous +treasures of the Joliba valley and the Tinbukhtu mart, began to claim +their share. As early as 1551 Captain Thomas Wyndham touched at the Gold +Coast and brought home 150 lbs. of the precious dust. The first English +company for exploring the Gambia River sent out (1618) their agent, +Richard Thompson. This brave and unfortunate explorer was rancorously +opposed by the Portuguese and eventually murdered by his own men. He was +followed (1620) by Richard Jobson, to whom we owe the first account of the +Gambia River. He landed at various points, armed with mercury, aqua regia +(nitric acid), large crucibles, and a 'dowsing' or divining rod; +[Footnote: A form of this old and almost universal magical instrument, +worked by electricity, has, I am told, been lately invented and patented +in the United States.] washed the sands and examined the rocks even beyond +the Falls of Barraconda. After having often been deceived, as has occurred +to many prospectors since his day, he determined that gold never occurs in +low fertile wooded lands, but in naked and barren hills, which embed it in +their reddish ferruginous soil. Hence it was long and erroneously +determined that bare rocks in the neighbourhood of shallow alluvia +characterise rich placers, and that the wealthiest mining-regions are poor +and stunted in vegetation. California and Australia, the Gold Coast and +South Africa, are instances of the contrary. Wasa, however, confirms the +old opinion that the strata traversed by lodes determine the predominating +metal; as quartz produces gold; hard blue slate, lead; limestone, +green-stone and porphyry, copper; and granite, tin. [Footnote: Page 17, _A +Treatise on Metalliferous Minerals and Mining_, by D. C. Davies. London, +Crosby and Co., 1881. The volume is handy and useful to explorers.] + +After twenty days' labour Jobson succeeded in extracting 12 lbs. from a +single site. He declares that at length he 'arrived at the mouth of the +mine itself, and found gold in such abundance as surprised him with joy +and admiration.' Unfortunately he leaves us no notice of its position; it +is probably lost, like many of the old Brazilian diggings. The Gambia +River still exports small quantities of dust supposed to have been washed +in the Ghauts, or sea-subtending ridges, of the interior. Most of it, +however, finds its way to the wealthier and more prosperous French colony. + +Whilst the English chose the Gambia the French preferred Senegal, where +they founded (1626) 'St. Louis,' called after Louis XIV. The Sieur Brue, +Director-General of the Senegal Company, made a second journey of +discovery in 1698, and reached with great difficulty the gold-mines of +desert and dreary Bambuk. There he visited the principal districts, and +secured specimens of what he calls the _ghingan_, or golden earth. He +proposed a third incursion, but the absolute apathy of his countrymen +proved an insuperable obstacle. + +M. Golberry describes Bambuk in gloomy and sombre colours. Its gold is +distributed amongst low ranges of peeled and sterile hills. Probably this +results from fires and disforesting. It occurs in the shape of spangles, +grains, and _pepites_ (nuggets), whose size increases with the depth of +the digging. In the Matakon mine the dust adhered to fragments of iron, +emery, and lapis lazuli, from which it was easily detached and washed. The +less valuable Semayla placer produced dust in a hard reddish loam, mixed +with still more refractory materials; it was crushed in mortars with rude +wooden dollies or with grain-pestles. The pits, six feet in diameter, +reached a depth of from ten to twelve yards, where they were stopped by a +bed of hard reddish marle; this the Frenchman held to be the hanging wall +of a much richer lode. The people used ladders, but they neglected to +collar or brace the mouth, and the untimbered pit-sides often fell in; +hence fatal accidents, attributed to the 'earth-spirits.' They held gold +to be a capricious elf, and when a rich vein suddenly ran barren they +cried out, 'There! he is off!' + +In later days Mungo Park drew attention by his famous first journey +(1795-97) to the highlands of the Mandingoes (Mandenga-land), and revived +interest in the provinces of Shronda, Konkodu, Dindiko, Bambuk, and +Bambarra. Here the natives collect dust by laborious washings of detrital +sand. His fatal second expedition (1805) produced an unfinished journal, +which, however, gives the amplest and most interesting notices concerning +the gold-production of the region he traversed. My space compels me to +refer readers to the original. [Footnote: Murray's edition of 1816, vol. +i, p. 40, and vol. ii. p. 751.] + +The traveller Caillie (1827), after crossing the Niger _en route_ to +Tinbukhtu, passed south of the Boure province, in the valley of the Great +River; and here he reports an abundance of gold. As in the districts +visited by Park, it is all alluvial and washed out of the soil. The dust, +together with native cloth, wax, honey, cotton and cattle, finds its way +to the coast, where it is bartered for beads, amber and coral, calicoes +and firearms. The gold-mines of Boure were first visited and described by +Winwood Reade. [Footnote: _Coomassie_, &c., p. 126.] + +The peninsula of Sierra Leone is not yet proved to be auriferous. Here +stray Moslems, mostly Mandengas, occasionally bring down the Melakori +River ring-gold and dust from the interior. The colonists of Liberia +assert that at times they have come upon a pocket which produced fifty +dollars; the country-people also occasionally offer gold for sale. From +the Bassam coast middle-men travel far inland and buy the metal from the +bushmen. Near Grand Bassam free gold in quartz-reefs near the shore has +been reported. + +We now reach the Gold Coast proper, which amply deserves its glorious +golden name. I have shown that the whole seaboard of West Africa, between +it and Morocco, produces more or less gold; here, however, the precious +metal comes down to the very shore and is washed upon the sands. Its +length from the Assini boundary-line to the Volta [Footnote: Chapter XIV. +I would not assert that gold is not found east of the Volta River. M. +Colonna, of Lagos, told me that he had good reason to suspect its presence +on the seaboard of Dahome, and promised me to make further enquiries.] has +been laid down at 220 direct geographical miles by a depth of about 100. +The area of the Protectorate, which has been a British colony since 1874, +is assumed to be 16,620 instead of 24,500 square miles, and the population +may exceed half a million. Its surface is divided into twelve petty +kingdoms; and its strand is studded with forts and ruins of forts, a total +of twenty-five, or one to every eight miles. This small section of West +Africa poured a flood of gold into Europe; and, until the mineral +discoveries of California and Australia, it continued to be the principal +source of supply to the civilised world. + +The older writers give us ample details about gold-digging and trading two +centuries ago. Bosnian (Letter VI.) shows that the people prospected for +the illustrious metal in three forms of ground. The first was in, or +between, particular hills, where they sank pits; the second was about the +rivers and waterfalls; and the third was on the seashore near the mouths +of rivulets after violent night-rains. He ends his letter with these +sensible words: 'I would refer to any intelligent metallist whether a vast +deal of ore must not of necessity be lost here, from which a great deal of +gold might be separated, from want of skill in the metallic art; and not +only so, but I firmly believe that vast quantities of pure gold are left +behind; for the negroes only ignorantly dig at random, without the least +knowledge of the veins of the mine. [Footnote: The origin of these mineral +veins is still disputed, science being as yet too young for the task of +solving the mystery. Probably, as Mr. Davies remarks, 'the mode of the +origin and means of the deposition are not one only but many,' and we have +the Huttonian (igneous) and Wernerian (aqueous) theories, the sublimation +of Necker, the electricity of Mr. R. W. Fox, the infiltration and +gravitation of fluid metals towards cracks, vughs (cavities), and +shrinkages, and the law of replacement. 'If a steel plate be removed atom +by atom,' says Mr. R. Brough Smyth (_Gold Fields of Victoria_, Melbourne, +1869), 'and each atom be replaced by a corresponding atom of silver--a +fact established by direct experiment--it will be readily seen that a +mineral vein may be formed in the same way.'] And I doubt not that if the +land belonged to Europeans they would soon find it to produce much richer +treasures than the negroes obtain from it. But it is not probable that we +shall ever possess that liberty here, wherefore we must be content with +being so far masters of it as we are at present, which, if well and +prudently managed, would turn to a very great account.' + +Times, however, are changed. England is now mistress of the field, and it +will be her fault if she leaves it untilled. + +The good old Hollander first mentions amongst his six gold-sites the +kingdom of Denkira; it then included the conquests of Wasa (Wassaw), of +Encasse, [Footnote: The Inkassa of D'Anville, 1729.] and of Juffer or +Quiforo. The gold of that region is good, but much alloyed for the trade +with 'fetish'-figures. These are composed sometimes of pure mountain-gold; +more often the ore is mixed with one-third, or even a half, of silver and +copper, and stuffed with half-weight of the black earth used for moulding. +The second was Acanny (D'Anville's Akanni), with gold so pure and fine +that 'Acanny sika' meant the best ley. Then came the kingdom of Akim, +which 'furnishes as large quantities of gold as any land that I know, and +that also the most valuable and pure of any that is carried away from the +coast.' It was easily distinguished by its deep colour. The fourth and +fifth were Ashanti and Ananse, a small tract between the ex-great +despotism and Denkira. The sixth and last was Awine, our Aowin, the region +to the east of the Tando, then and now included in the British +Protectorate. The Dutch 'traded here with a great deal of pleasure,' the +people 'being the civilest and fairest dealers of all the negroes.' + +The Ashanti war of 1873-74 had the effect of opening to transit a large +area of workable ground. English officers traversed the interior in all +directions, and their reports throw vivid light upon the position, the +extent, and the value of the auriferous grounds which subtend the Gold +Coast and which supply it with the precious metal. + +The gold-provinces best known to us are now three--Wasa, of which these +pages treat; Akim, the hill-land, an easy journey of a week north with +westing from Akra; and Gyaman, the rival of Ashanti. + +Akim is divided into eastern and western. Mr. H. Ponsonby, when travelling +through both regions, found the natives getting quantities of gold by +digging holes eight to ten feet deep on either side of the forest-paths. +He saw as much as three ounces taken up in less than half an hour. Around +the capital of eastern Akim, Kyebi, or Chyebi, the land is also +honeycombed with man-holes, making night-travel dangerous to the stranger. +It requires a sharp eye to detect the deserted pits, two feet in diameter +and 'sunk straight, as if they had been bored with huge augurs.' I have +seen something of the kind in the water-meadows near Shoreham. The workman +descends by foot-holes, and works with a hoe four to six inches long by +two broad: when his calabash is filled it is drawn up by his companions. +The earthquakes of April and July 1862 [Footnote: I happened to be at Akra +during the convulsion of July 10. The commandant, Major (now Colonel) de +Buvignes, and I set out for a stroll along the sands to the west. The +morning was close and cloudy: what little breeze there was came from the +south-west, under a leaden sky and over a leaden sea. At 8.10 A.M., as we +were returning from the rocks about three-quarters of a mile off, there +was a sudden rambling like a distant thunder-clap; the sands seemed to +wave up and down as a shaken carpet, and we both staggered forwards. +Others described the movement as rising and falling like the waters of a +lagoon. I looked with apprehension at the sea; but the direction of the +shock was apparently from west-north-west; and the line was too oblique to +produce one of those awful earthquake-waves, seventy feet high, which have +swept tall ships over the roofs of cities. We ran as fast as we could to +the town, where everything was in the wildest confusion. The 'Big House' +and Mr. John Hansen's were mere ruins; the Court-house had come to pieces, +and the prison-cells yawned open. I distinctly saw that the rock-ledge +under Akra, between Fort James and Crevecoeur, had been upraised: canoes +passed over what was now dry. A second shock at 8.20 A.M., and a third +about 10.45, completed the destruction, split every standing wall, and +shook down the three forts into ruinous heaps. Nor did the seismic +movements cease till July 15, when I made my escape. + +Men who remembered as far back as March 1858, when Colonel Bird ruled the +land, declared that Akra had never felt an earthquake; but on the morning +of April 14, 1862, there had been a sharp shock followed by sundry lighter +movements, and lastly by the most severe. The direction was said to be +north-south, and it was supposed to be the tail of a great earthquake, +whose focus was behind Sierra Leone. A rumbling, like the rolling of guns, +had been heard under the main square of Akra; the shocks were felt by the +ships in the roads, and the disturbance was reported to have been even +more severe up-country. When the wave reached Agbome, Gelele, King of +Dahome, with characteristic filial piety, exclaimed, 'Don't you see that +my father is calling for blood, and is angry because we are not sending +him more men?' Whereupon he at once ordered three prisoners from Ishagga +to take the road to Ku-to-men, Hades or Dead-land.] so tossed and broke +up the hill-strata of Akim that all the people flocked to the diggings and +dispensed with the chimney-holes generally sunk. The frontier-village of +Adadentum, on the Prah, was nearly buried by a landslip from a spur of the +'Queeshoh Range.' Huge nuggets were uncovered, and the people filled their +calabashes daily, thankful to their great fetish, the Kataguri. [Footnote: +This is a huge brass pan which fell from heaven: it is or was surrounded +by drawn swords and gold-handled axes in its sanctuary, the fetish-house.] +The provinces of Gyaman, especially Ponin, Safwi, and Showy, are famed for +wealth of gold. In African phrase, while 'the metallic veins of Ashanti, +Denkira, and Wasa lie twelve cubits deep, those of Gyaman are only five.' +The ore dug from pits is of deep colour, and occurs mixed with red gravel +and pieces of white granite (quartz). It is held to be rock-gold +(nuggets), and more valuable than that of Ashanti, although the latter, +passing for current, is mostly pure. This pit-gold appears in lumps +embedded in loam and rock, of which 14 to 15 lbs. would yield 1 to 1 1/2 +lb. pure metal. Nuggets are also produced, and chiefs wear them slung to +hair and wrists; some may weigh 4 lbs. The dust washed from the +torrent-beds is higher-coloured, cleaner, and better than what is produced +elsewhere. It found its way to the Nigerian basin as well as to the Gold +Coast, and was converted into ducats (miskals) and trinkets, chains, +bracelets, anklets, and adornments for weapons. The King of Gyaman became +immensely rich by the produce of his mines; and, according to Bowdich, his +bed had steps of solid gold. + +The reader will have gathered from the preceding pages that the negroes +have worked their gold-fields for centuries but to very little purpose. +Their want of pumps, of quartz-crushers, and of scientific appliances +generally, has limited their labour to scratching the top-soil and +nibbling at the reef-walls. A large proportion of the country is +practically virgin-ground, and a rich harvest has been left for European +science, energy, and enterprise. + +The Fantis have many curious usages and superstitions which limit +production. As a rule nuggets are the royalty of kings and chiefs; but in +many places these 'mothers of gold' are re-buried, in order that gold may +grow from them. [Footnote: It was long supposed in Europe that alluvial +gold grew by a succession of layers imposed upon a solid nucleus, and by +the coalescence of grains as a snow-ball is constructed. Mr. Sellwyn still +holds that 'nuggets and particles of alluvial gold may gradually increase +by the deposition of metallic gold (analogous to the electroplating +process), from the meteoric waters that circulate through the +drifts.'--_Gold Fields of Victoria_, p. 357.] I have noted that a smoke, +or thin vapour, guides to the unknown placer, and that white gold causes a +mine to be abandoned. Rich ground is denoted by a peculiar vegetation, +especially of ferns. Gold is guarded here not by a dragon, but by a +monstrous baboon; and when golden dogs are found the finder dies. In 1862 +I visited with Major de Ruvignes Great Sankanya, a village west of the +Volta, where a large gold-field was reported. As we drew near the spot we +were told that the precious metal appears during the 'yam-customs,' and +that only prayers, sacrifices, and presents to the fetish will make it +visible. Presently we saw a white rag on a pole, which the dark youth, our +guide, called a 'sign,' and groaned out that it would surely slay us. A +woman, whose white and black beads showed a 'religious,' pointed to a +place where gold is 'common as ashes after a fire'--the priest being first +paid. The report of this excursion spread to Akra; Major de Ruvignes had +taken up in his arms a golden dog, and at once fell dead. I can hardly +connect the superstition with old Anubis. + +Whenever the unshored pit caves in the accident has been caused by +evil-minded ghosts, the kobolds of Germany, in which Cornwall till lately +believed. Fetish then steps forward and forbids further search. Thus many +of the richest placers have been closed. Such, for instance, is the Monte +do Diabo (Devil's Hill), the native Mankwadi, [Footnote: Again, I cannot +connect Mankwadi (or even Manquada) with 'Maquida or Azeb, Queen of +Sheba'--the latter country probably lying in South Arabian Yemen.] near +Winnebah, fifteen leagues east from Elmina. The miners were killed by the +heat of the shafts, and the mine was at once placed 'in fetish.' But +'fetish' has now lost much of its authority; the Satanic hill will soon be +exploited, and its only difficulty is its disputed ownership by 'Ghartey, +King of Winnebah,' and 'Okill Ensah, King of Ejemakun.' These dignitaries +condescend to advertise against each other in the local papers. + +At Ada (Addah), west of the Volta and in its neighbourhood, the Krobo +Hills included, a beggar would be grossly insulted by the offer of a +sovereign; he dashes it to earth, spitting upon it with wrath. The +Ashantis, as the story runs, once dug treasure near Sakanya; and, as the +chiefs and people were becoming too independent of them, the high priests +put the precious metal 'in fetish,' with the penalty of blindness to all +who worked it. A Danish governor once filled his pockets, and recovered +sight only by throwing away the plunder. A brother of the Ada chief +offered to show this magic-fenced placer to the late Mr. Nicol Irvine, +_moyennant_ the trifle of 50_l_. The transaction reminded me of the Hindu +alchemist who asks you ten rupees to make a ton of gold. + +As regards the gold-supply of this El Dorado, the Gold Coast, it has been +estimated that the total since A.D. 1471 amounted to six or seven hundred +millions of pounds sterling. Elmina alone, at the beginning of the +seventeenth century, annually exported, according to Bosman, 3,000,000_l_. +At a later period Mr. McQueen increased the figures to 3,400,000_l_. Then +came the abolition of slavery, which caused the decline and fall of +mining-industry amongst the natives. In 1816 the export was reduced to +400,000_l_. (=100,000 ounces), a figure repeated in 1860 by Dr. Eobert +Olarke; and in 1862 the amount was variously reported at 192,000_l_. (= +48,000 ounces) and half a million of money. + +The following proportions were given to me by M. Dahse. Till 1870 the +figures are computed by him; after that date the value is +declared;--[Footnote: _Statistical Abstract of the United Kingdom._ Eyre +and Spottiswoode. London, 1881.] + + 1866 1867 1868 1869 + 120,333_l_. 146,182_l_ 118,875_l_. 100,214_l_. + + 1870 1871 1872 + 116,142_l_. 137,328_l_. 108,869_l_. + +Now began the notable falling-off, which reached its maximum next year:-- + + 1873 1874 1875 1876 + 77,523_l_. 136,263_l_. 117,321_l_. 145,511_l_. + + 1877 1878 1879 1880 + 120,542_l_ 122,497_l_. 115,167_l_. 125,980_l_. + +M. Dahse assumes the annual average to be in round numbers, 126,000_l_. + +The official returns of imported silver from the Coast show:-- + + 1872 1873 1874 1875 1876 + 7,074_l_. 6,841_l_. 40,964_l_. 23,587_l_. 21,667_l_. + + 1877 1878 1879 1880 + 10,905_l_. 41,254_l_. 61,755_l_. 63,337_l_. + +Totals of gold and silver:-- + + 1872 1873 1874 1875 1876 + 115,943_l_. 84,364_l_. 177,227_l_. 140,908_l_. 167,178_l_. + + 1877 1878 1879 1880 + 131,447_l_. 163,751_l_. 176,922_l_. 189,317_l_. + +I was lately asked by an illustrious geologist and man of science, how it +came to pass that the Gold Coast, if so rich, has not been worked before +this time. These notes will afford a sufficient reply. + +_b. The Kong Mountains._ + +This range, which has almost disappeared from the maps, may have taken its +name either from the town of Kong on the southern versant, or it may be a +contraction of the Kongkodu, the mountain-land described by Mungo Park. +Messieurs J. Zweifel and M. Moustier, [Footnote: _Expedition, C. A. +Verminck, Voyage aux Sources du Niger_. Marseille, 1880.] who did not +reach the Niger sources in 1879, explain 'Kong' as the Kissi name of the +line which trends from north-west to south-east, and which divides +Koronko-land from Kono-land. When nearing their objective they sighted the +Kong-apex, Mount Daro, measuring 1,240 metres. Older travellers make it a +latitudinal chain running nearly east-west, with its centre about the +meridian of Cape Coast Castle, and extending 500 to 600 miles on a +parallel of north latitude 7ş-8ş. Westward it bends north behind Cape +Palmas, and, like the Ghauts of Hindostan, follows the line of seaboard. I +have before noticed the traditions of Mount Geddia, an occidental +Kilima-njaro. About the parallel of Sierra Leone the feature splits into a +network of ranges, curves, and zigzags, which show no general trend. The +eastern faces here shed to the Niger, the western to the various streams +between the Rokel-Seli, the Gambia, and the Senegal; and the last northern +counterforts sink into the Sahara Desert. The western versant supplies the +gold of Senegambia, the southern that of Ashanti and Wasa. The superficial +dust is washed down by rains, floods, and rivers; and the dykes and veins +of quartz, mostly running north-south, are apparently connected with those +of the main range. + +That such a chain must exist is proved by the conduct of the Gold Coast +streams. The Ancobra, for instance, which often rises and falls from +twenty to forty feet in twenty-four hours, suggests that its sources +spring from an elevated plane at no great distance from the sea. The lands +south of the Kong Mountains are grassy and hilly with extensive plains. +This is known through the 'Donko slaves,' common on the coast. Many of +them come from about Salagha, the newly-opened mart upon the Upper Volta; +they declare that the land breeds ostriches and elephants, cattle and +camels, horses and asses. Moreover, it is visited by the northern peoples +who cross the Sahara. I have already noticed the grass-lands of Gyaman. + +Captain Clapperton, on his second journey, setting out from Badagry to +Busa (Boussa), crossed a hill-range which would correspond with the Kong. +It is described as about eighty miles broad, and is said to extend from +behind Ashanti to Benin. The traveller, who estimated the culminating +point not to exceed 2,600 feet, found the rugged passes hemmed in by +denticulated walls and tons of granite, 600 to 700 feet high, and +sometimes overhanging the path. The valleys varied in breadth from a +hundred yards to half a mile. A comparatively large population occupied +the mountain-recesses, where they planted fine crops of yams, millet, and +cotton. The strangers were made welcome at every settlement. Ascending +hill after hill, they came to Chaki, a large town on the very summit of +the ridge. The _caboceer_ had a house and a stock of provisions ready for +his guests, put many questions, and earnestly pressed them to rest for two +or three days. When the whole chain was crossed they fell into the plains +of 'Yaruba' (Yoruba). + +The next eye-witness is Mr. John Duncan, who visited Dahome in 1845. King +Gezo allowed him a guard of a hundred men, in order to explore with safety +the 'Mahi, or Kong Mountains.' His son and successor was not so generous; +he systematically and churlishly refused all travellers, myself included, +permission to pass northwards of his capital. The Lifeguardsman found the +chain, which is distant more than a hundred miles from Agbome, differing +from his expectations in character, appearance, and even position. The +grand, imposing line looked from afar like colossal piles of ruins; a +nearer view showed immense blocks, some of them 200 feet long, egg-shaped +and lying upon their sides. Nearly all the settlements had chosen the +summits, doubtless for defence. Mr. Duncan crossed the whole breadth of +these 'Kong Mountains,' and pushed 180 miles beyond them over a level land +which must shed to the Niger. + +These descriptions denote a range of granite, the rock which forms the +ground-floor of the Sierra Leone peninsula and the Gold Coast, possibly +varied by syenites and porphyries. It would probably contain, like the +sea-subtending mountains of Midian, large veins of eminently metalliferous +quartz, outcropping from the surface and forming extensions of the reefs +below. From the coast-line the land gradually upslopes towards the spurs +of the great dividing ridge; and thus we may fairly expect that the +further north we go the richer will become the diggings. + +The Kong Mountains are apparently cut through by the Niger south of Iddah, +where the true coast begins. Travellers describe the features almost in +the words of Clapperton and Denham--the towering masses of granite which +contrast so strongly with the southern swamps; upstanding outcrops +resembling cathedrals and castellations in ruins; boulders like footballs +of enormous dimensions; pyramids a thousand feet high; and solitary cones +which rise like giant ninepins. We know too little of the lands lying +south-east of the confluence to determine the sequence of the chain, whose +counterforts may give rise to the Eastern 'Oil Rivers.' It is not +connected with the Peak of Camarones, round which Mr. Cumber, of the +Baptist Mission, travelled; and which he determined to be an isolated +block. Farther south the Ghauts of Western Africa reappeared as the Serra +do Crystal, and fringe the mighty triangle below the Equator. They are +suspected to be auriferous in places. An American merchant on the Gaboon +River, Captain Lawlin, carried home in 1843-44 a quantity of granular gold +brought to him by the country-traders. He returned to his station, +prepared to work the metals of the interior; but the people took the +alarm, and he failed to find the spot. + +Cameron and I, prevented by the late season of our landing from attempting +this interesting exploration, were careful to make all manner of enquiries +concerning the best _point de depart_, and if fate prevent our attempting +it we shall be happy to see some more favoured traveller succeed. The +easiest way would be to march upon Crockerville, two days by the Ancobra +River and three by land. The bush-paths, which would require widening for +hammocks, lead north through Wasa. There are many villages on the way, and +in places provisions can be procured; the people are peaceful and willing +to show or to make the path. At Axim I consulted a native guide who knew +the Kong village, but not the Kong Mountains. He made the distance six +marches to Safwi, where the grass-lands begin; and here he ascended a +hillock, seeing nothing but prairies to the north. Eight more stages, a +total of fourteen, led him to Gyaman, where he found horses and horsemen. +He also knew by hearsay the western route, _via_ Apollonian Bein. + +_c. Native Modes of Working Gold_. + +In all places, and at all times, gold, probably the metal first used by +man, has been worked in the same way. This is a fair evidence of that +instinctive faculty which produces a general resemblance of rude +stone-implements from England to Australia. There are six methods for +'getting' the precious metal--surfacing or washing; shallow-sinking; +sluicing, or removing the earth through natural and artificial channels; +deep sinking; tunnelling, and quartz-mining. + +The preceding notes show that the natives of the Gold Coast, and of West +Africa generally, are adepts at procuring their gold by 'surfacing,' +washing with the calabash or wooden bowl the rich alluvial formations that +underlie the top-soil. This is the rudest form of machinery, preceding in +California the cradle, the torn, and the sluice. Westerns made their pans +of brass or copper, about sixteen inches in diameter, and nearly two +inches deep in the middle where the gold gravitates. Panning in Africa is +women's work, and the process has been described in the preceding pages. + +But the natives, as has been shown, can also work quartz, an art well +known to the Ancient Egyptians. They either pick up detached pieces +showing visible gold, or they sink pits and nibble at the walls of the +reefs. But whereas the Nile-peoples pounded the stone in mortars and +washed the dust on sloping boards, here the matrix must be laboriously +levigated. A handful of broken quartz is placed upon the 'cankey-stone,' +with which the gudewife grinds her 'mealies.' It is a slightly hollowed +slab of granite or hard conglomerate, some two feet square, sloping away +from the worker, and standing upon a rude tripod of tree-branches secured +by a lashing of 'tie-tie.' The stuff is then rubbed with a hand-stone not +unlike a baker's roll, and a slight deviation is given to it as it moves +'fore and aft.' The reduced stone is caught in a calabash placed at the +lower end of the slab. This is usually night-work, and all the dark hours +will be wasted in grinding down a cubic foot of stone. + +The late M. Bonnat had probably read Mr. Andrew Swanzy's evidence before +the House of Commons in 1816: 'Gold is procured in every part of the +country; it appears more like an impregnation of the soil than a mine.' +His long captivity at Kumasi, where to a certain extent he learned the Oji +speech, familiarised him with the native processes; and thus a Frenchman +taught Englishmen to work gold in a golden land where they have been +domiciled--true _faineants_--for nearly three centuries. He came out in +the Dries of 1877 with the intention of dredging the Ancobra River where +the natives dive for the precious metal. He was working in western Apinto, +a province of Wasa, under Kofi Blay, a vassal of King Kwabina Angu, when +he was visited (January 1878) by Major-General Wray, B.A., Colonel +Lightfoot, and Mr. Hervey, who were curious to see the work. They remained +only till the return of the mail-steamer, or about five weeks. The General +left with some first-rate sketches; the Colonel caught a fever, which +killed him at Madeira; and the Esquire, who bears a name well known in +Australia, returned to the Gold Coast for the purpose of writing not +unprofitable reports. M. Bonnat was presently informed of the Takwa Ridge, +mines well known for a century at least to Cape Coast Castle, and ever the +principal source of the Axim currency. They were still worked in 1875 by +the people who drew their stores from Axim. A five-weeks' residence +convinced him that they were rich enough to attract capital; he went to +Europe, and was successful in raising it. Thus began the Takwa mines, +where, by a kind of irony of Fate, the beginner was buried. + +M. Bonnat wisely intended to open operations with wet-working. At Axim I +was shown a model flume, made to order after the plans of a M. Boisonnet, +or, as he signs himself, 'boisonnet.' He was reported to be a large +landed-proprietor who had made a fortune by mining in French Guiana. He +proposed for M. Bonnat and himself to secure the monopoly of washing the +Protectorate with this flume--a veritable French toy, uselessly +complicated, and yet to be used only upon the smallest scale. We must go +for our models to California and Australia, not to French Guiana. + +The following will be the implements with which the natives of the future +must do their work on the Gold Coast:-- + +The pan begat the cradle, a wooden box on rockers, shaped like the article +which gave its name. It measures three feet and a half by eighteen inches, +and is provided with a movable hopper and slides. Placed in a sloping +position, it is worked to and fro by a perpendicular staff acting as +handle, and the grain-gold, a metal seven times heavier than granite, +collects where the baby should be. As some flour-gold is here found, the +cradle-bottom should be cut with cross-grooves to hold mercury; and the +latter must be tempered with sodium or other amalgam. + +The cradle begat Long Tom and Broad Tom, the 'tom' proper being the upper +box with a grating to keep out the pebbles. 'Long Tom's' body is a wooden +trough, from twelve to fourteen feet long by a foot or a foot and a half +broad, with ripples, riffles, or cross-bars. There is usually another +grating at the lower end to intercept the smaller stones. The machine is +fixed in a gently sloping position, at an angle determined by +circumstances; the wash-dirt is lifted into the upper end by manual +labour; when stiff it must be stirred or shovelled, and a stream of water +does the rest. The greater gravity of the gold causes it to be arrested by +the riffles. Instead of the bars grooves may be cut and filled with +quicksilver. When the sludge is very rich, rough cloths rubbed with +mercury, or even sheepskins, the lineal descendants of the Golden Fleece, +may be used, 'Broad Tom,' _alias_ the 'Victoria Jenny Lind,' is made about +half the length of its long brother: the upper end is only a foot wide, +broadening out to three below. + +'Tom' begat the sluice, which is of two kinds, natural and artificial. The +former is a ditch cut in the floor, with a _talus_ of one to forty or +fifty. The bottom, which would soon wear away, is revetted with rough +planks and paved with hard stones, weighing ten to twenty pounds, the +grain being placed vertically. With a full head of water 400 cubic yards a +day can easily be washed. The gold, as usual, gravitates through the +chinks to the bottom, and finally is cradled or panned out. It is most +efficiently treated when the sluice is long; it demands six times more +water than the artificial article, but it wants less manual labour. This +last property should recommend it to the Gold Coast. Here, I repeat, +machinery must be used as much and manual labour as little as possible. + +The artificial or portable box-sluice is a series of troughs each about +twelve feet long, like the upper compartment of 'Long Tom.' They are made +of half-inch boards, rough from the saw, the lower end being smaller to +fit into its prolongation. Each compartment is provided with a loose metal +bottom pierced with holes to admit the dust; the true bottom below it has +cross-riffles, and above it are bars or gratings to catch the coarser +stones. These sluices are mounted on trestles, and the latter are disposed +upon a slope determined by the quantity of water: the average fall or +grade may be 1 to 50. In Australia four men filling a 'Long Tom,' or +raised box-sluice, will remove and wash twenty-four cubic yards of ground +per day. When the ore is fine, mercury may be dropped into the upper end +of the sluice; and it picks up the particles, 'tailing,' as it goes, +before the two metals have run far down. Both stop at the first riffle or +resting-place. + +The auriferous clays of the Gold Coast are thinly covered with humus, and +are not buried, as in Australia, by ten to thirty feet of unproductive +top-drift. The whole, therefore, can be run through the sluices before we +begin mining the underlying strata. Washing will be easier during the +Rains, when the dirt is looser; in the Dries hard and compact stuff must +be loosened by the pick and spade or by blasting. There will not be much +loss by float-gold, flour-gold, or paint-gold, the latter thus called +because it is so fine as to resemble gilding. Spangles and specks are +found; but the greater part of the dust is granular, increasing to 'shotty +gold.' The natives divide the noble ore into 'dust-gold' and +'mountain-gold.' The latter would consist of nuggets, 'lobs,' or pepites, +and of crystals varying in size from a pin's head to a pea. The form is a +cube modified to an octahedron and a rhombic dodecahedron. These rich +finds are usually the produce of pockets or 'jewellers' shops.' I am not +aware if there be any truth in the rule generally accepted: 'The forms of +gold are found to differ according to the nature of the underlying rock: +if it is slate the grains are cubical; if granite they are flat plates and +scales.' + +And, lastly, the sluice begat the jet, or hydraulicking proper, which is +at present the highest effort of placer-mining. We thus reverse the +primitive process which carried the wash-dirt to the water; we now carry +the water to the wash-dirt. In California I found the miners washing down +loose sandstones and hillocks of clay, passing the stuff through sluices, +and making money when the gold averaged only 9_d_. and even 4_d_. to the +ton. A man could work under favourable circumstances twenty to thirty tons +a day. An Australian company, mentioned by Mr. R. Brough Smyth, with 200 +inches of water, directed by ten hands, 'hydraulicked' in six days 224,000 +cubic feet of dirt. The results greatly vary; in some places a man will +remove 200 cubic yards a day, and in others only 50. + +Hydraulic mining on the Gold Coast, owing to the conformation of the +country, will be a far simpler and less expensive process than in +California or Australia. In the latter water has first to be bought, and +then to be brought in pipes, flumes, leats, or races from a considerable +distance, sometimes extending over forty miles. It is necessary to make a +reservoir for a fall. The water then rushes through the flexible hose, and +is directed by a nozzle against the face of the excavation. The action is +that of a fireman playing upon a burning house. Most works on mining +insist upon those reservoirs, and never seem to think of washing from +below by the force-pump. + +I have shown that the surface of the lands adjoining the Ancobra is a +series of hummocks, rises, and falls, sometimes, though rarely, reaching +200 feet; that water abounds, and that it is to be had gratis. In every +bottom there is a drain, sometimes perennial, but more often a blind gully +or creek, [Footnote: The gully feeds a 'creek,' the creek a river.] which +runs only during the Rains, and in the Dries carries at most a succession +of pools. Here Norton's Abyssinian tubes, sunk in the bed after it has +been carefully worked by the steam-navvy for the rich alluvium underlying +the surface, would act like pumps, and dams would form huge tanks. Nor +would there be any difficulty in making reservoirs upon the ridge-tops, +with launders, or gutters, to collect the rain. Thus work would continue +throughout the year, and not be confined, as at present, to the dry +season. A pressure of 100 to 200 lbs. per square foot can easily be +obtained, and the force of the jet is so great that it will kill a man on +the spot. The hose should be of heavy duck, double if necessary, rivetted +and strengthened by metal bands or rings--in fact, the crinoline-hose of +Australia. Leather would be better, but hard to repair in case of +accidents by rats; guttapercha would be expensive, and perhaps thin metal +tubes with flexible joints may serve best. The largest hose carried by +iron-clads measures 19 to 20 inches in diameter, and is worked by 30 to 40 +horse-power. Other vessels have a 15-inch hose worked by manual labour, +fifty men changed every ten minutes, and will throw the jet over the royal +yards of a first-class man-of-war. The floating power-engines attached to +the Dockyard reserves would represent the articles required. + +With a diameter of from ten to fifteen inches, and a nozzle of three to +four inches, a 'crinoline-hose' will throw a stream a hundred feet high +when worked by the simplest steam-power process, and tear down a hill +more rapidly than a thousand men with shovels. The cost of washing +gravel, sand, and clay did not exceed in our colonies 1_d._ to 2_d._ per +ton; and thus the working expenses were so small that 4_d._ worth of +gold to the ton of soft stuff paid a fair profit. Lastly, there is +little danger to the miner; and this is an important consideration. + +It is well known that California was prepared for agriculture and +viticulture by 'hydraulicking' and other mining operations. It will be the +same with the Gold Coast, whose present condition is that of the +Lincolnshire fens and the Batavian swamps in the days of the Romans. Let +us only have a little patience, and with patience perseverance, which, +'dear my Lord, keeps honour bright.' The water-jet will soon clear away +the bush, washing down the tallest trees; it will level the ground and +will warp up the swamp till the surface assumes regular raised lines. We +run no risk of covering the face of earth with unproductive clay. Here the +ground is wanted only as a base for vegetation; sun and rain do all the +rest. And thus we may hope that these luxuriant wastes will be turned into +fields of bustling activity, and will tell the tale of Cameron and me to a +late posterity. + +But gold is not the only metal yielded by the Gold Coast. I have already +alluded in the preceding pages to sundry silver-lodes said to have been +worked by the old Hollanders. As is well known, there is no African gold +without silver, and this fact renders the legend credible. Even in these +dullest of dull days 63,337_l_. worth was the export of 1880. Iron is +everywhere, the land is stained red with its oxide; and manganese with +cobalt has been observed. I have mentioned that at Akankon my companion +showed me a large vein of cinnabar. Copper occurs in small quantities with +tin. This metal is found in large veins streaking the granite, according +to M. Dahse, who gave me a fine specimen containing some ten and a half +per cent. of metal. He has found as much as twelve per cent., when at home +2 to 2-1/2 per cent. pays. [Footnote: 'The present percentage of block-tin +derived from all the tin-ore ... of Cornwall is estimated at 2 per cent., +or nearly 45 lbs. to the ton of ore.'--Davies, p. 391.] The aspect of the +land is diamantiferous; [Footnote: I hear with the greatest pleasure that a +syndicate has been formed for working the diamond-diggings of Golconda, a +measure advocated by me for many years. Suffice to say here that the +Hindus rarely went below 60 feet, because they could not unwater the mine, +and that the Brazilian finds his precious stones 280 feet below the +surface. Moreover the Indian is the only true diamond: the Brazilian is a +good and the Cape a bad natural imitation.] and it has been noticed that a +crystal believed to be a diamond has been found in auriferous gravel. In +these granitic, gneissose, and quartzose formations topazes, amethysts and +sapphires, garnets and rubies, will probably occur, as in the similar +rocks of the great Brazilian mining-grounds. The seed-pearl of the +Coast-oyster may be developed into a tolerable likeness of the far-famed +pear-shaped _Margarita_ of Arabian Katifah, which was bought by Tavernier +for the sum, then enormous, of 110,000_l_. + +Pearl-culture is an art now known even to the wild Arab fisherman of the +far Midian shore. Lastly, the humble petroleum, precious as silver to the +miner-world, has been found in the British Protectorate about New Town. + + + + +APPENDIX II. + +PART I. + +LIST OF BIRDS COLLECTED BY CAPTAIN +BURTON AND COMMANDER CAMERON. + +By R. BOWDLER SHARPE, F.L.S. + +Vulturine Sea-eagle. Gypohierax angolensis. +Osprey. Pandion haliaetus. +Touracou. Corythaix persa. +Red-headed Hornbill. Buceros elatus. +Black Hornbill. Tockus semifasciatus. +Red-throated Bee-eater. Meropiscus gularis. +Blue-throated Roller with Eurystomus afer. + yellow bill. +Kingfisher with black and red bill. Halcyon senegalensis. +Small Woodpecker. Dendropicus lugubris. +Sun-bird. Anthothreptes rectirostris. +Grey Flycatcher. (3 spec). Muscicapa lugens. +Dull olive-green Flycatcher with Hylia prasina. + pale eyebrow. 19. +Common Swallow. 33. Hirundo rustica. +Black Swallow with white throat. 30. Waldenia nigrita. +Grey-headed Wagtail. 22. Motacilla flava. +Black and chestnut Weaver-bird. 23. Hyphantornis castaneofuscas. +Turtle-dove. 15 Turtur semitorquatus. +Whimbrel. 5 Numenius phaeopus. +Grey Plover. 13 Squatarola helvetica. +Common Sandpiper. 18 Tringoides hypoleucus. +Spur-winged Plover. 11 Lobivanellus albiceps. +Green Heron. 7 Butoides atricapilla. + + + +PART II. + +LIST OF PLANTS COLLECTED ON THE GOLD COAST BY CAPTAIN BURTON AND COMMANDER +CAMERON, R.N. + +(FURNISHED BY PROFESSOR OLIVER.) + +_A considerable number of specimens either in fruit only or fragmentary +were not identifiable._ + +Oncoba echinata, Oliv. +Hibiscus tiliaceus, L. + " Abelmoschus, L, +Glyphaea grewioides, Hk. f. +Scaphopetalum sp. ? fruit. + +Gomphia reticulata, P. de B. + " Vogelii, Hk. f, + " aff. G. Mannii, Oliv. an sp. nov. ? +Bersama? sp. an B. maxima? _fruit only_ +Olaoinea? an Alsodeiopsis? _fruit only_ +Hippocratea macrophylla, V. +Leea sambucina, W. +Paullinia pinnata, L. +? Eriocoslum sp. (fruiting specimen). +Cnestis ferruginea, DC. +Pterocarpus esculentus, Sch. +Baphia nitida, Afz, +Lonchocarpus sp.? +Drepanocarpus lunatus, Mey. +Phaseolus lunatus? _imperfect_ +Dialium guineense, W, +Berlinia an B. acuminata? var. (2 forms.) +Berlinia (same?) in fruit. +Pentaclethramacrophylla, Bth. +Combretum racemosum, P. de B.? +Combretum comosum, Don. +Lagunoularia racemosa, Gaertn. +Begonia sp. flowerless. +Modecca sp. nov. ? flowerless. +Sesuvium Portulacastrum? barren. +Tristemma Schumacheri, G. and P. +Smeathmannia pubescens, R. Br. +Sabicea Vogelii, Benth. var. +Ixora sp. f +Rutidea membranacea? Hiern. +Randia acuminata? Bth. +Dictyandra ? sp. nov. +Urophyllum sp. Gardenia? sp. +Gardenia ? sp +Pavetta ? sp. +Canthium, cf. C. Heudelotii, cf. Virecta procumbens, Hiern.; Sm. +Seven imperfect Rubiaceae (Mussaendae, & c.). +Diospyros sp.? (corolla wanting). +Ranwolfia Senegambiae, A. DC. +Tabernaemontana sp. in fruit. +Apocynacea, fragment, in fruit. +Two species of Strychnos in fruit: one with 1-seeded fruit singular and +probably new; the other a plant collected by Barter. +Ipomaea paniculata, Br. +Physalis minima, L. +Datura Stramonium ? scrap. +Clerodendronscandens, Beauv. +Brillantaisia owariensis, Beauv. +Lankesteria Barteri, Hk. +Lepidagathis laguroidea, T. And. +Ocyinum viride, W. +Platystomum africanum, Beauv. +Brunnichia africana, Welw. +Teleianthera maritima, Moq. +Phyllanthus capillaris, Muell. Arg., var. +Alchornea cordata, Bth. (fruit). +Cyclostemon? sp. (in fruit only). +Ficus, 3 species. +Musanga Smithii ? (young leafy specimens). +Culcasia sp, (no inflorescence), +Anchomanes, cf. A. dubius (no attached inflorescence). +Anubias ? sp. (no inflorescence). +Palisota thyrsiflora? Bth. (imperfect). +Palisota prionostachys, C.B.C. + " bracteosa, C.B.C. +Pollia condensata, C.B.C. (fruit). +Aneilema ovato-oblongum, P. de B. +Aneilema beninense, Kth. +Crinum purpurascens, Herb. +Haemanthus cinnabarinus? Denc. +Dracaena? sp. (fruit). + " (in fruit) aff. D. Cameroonianae, Bkr. +Flagellaria indica, L. +Cyrtopodium (? Cyrtopera longifolia, B.f.), no leaf. +Bulbophyllum ? sp. (no inflorescence). +Costus afer? Ker. +Trachycarpus (fruit) (= Vogel, no. 13). + +Phrynium brachystachyum, Koern. (fruit). +Cyperus distans, L. + " sp. + " cf. C. ligularis, L. +Mariscus umbellatus, V. +Panicum ovalifolium, P, de B. +Centotheca lappacea, Desv. +In fruit: a fragment, perhaps Anacardiacea. +Pteris (Campteria) biaurita, L. + " (Litobrochia) Burtoni, n. sp. 62. + +Pteris (Litobrochia) atrovirens, Willd. +Lonchitis pubescens, Willd. +Nephrolepis ramosa, Moore. + " acuta, Presl. +Nephrodium subquinquefidum, Hook. +Nephrodium, type and var, N. variabile, Hook. +Nephrodium pennigerum, Hook. +Nephrodium? sp. +Acrostichum sorbifolium, L. + " fluviatile, Hook. +Lygodium pinnatifidum, Sw. +Selaginella Vogelii, Spring. + " near anceps, A. Br.? + " near cathedrifolia Spring. + + + +FUNGI, NAMED BY Dr. M. C. COOKE. + +Lentinus sp. +Polyporus (Mesopus) heteromorphus, Lev. +Polyporus (Mesopus) acanthopus, Fr. +Polyporus (Pleuropus)lucidas, Fr. +Polyporus (Pleuropus) sanguineus, Fr. + +Polyporus (Placodermei) australis, Fr. +Polyporus (Placodermei) hemitephrus, Berh. +Trametes Carteri, Berk. + " occidentalis, Fr. +Daedalea sangninea, Kl. +Hydnum nigrum? Fr. +Cladoderris dendritica, Pers. +Stereum sp. + +_The remainder not determinable._ + + + + +INDEX. + +[Transcriber's Note: This index applies to both volumes I and II +of this work. The entries in this text-ebook have only the volume +number, and not the page number.] + + +Abeseba, ii. +Abonsa (river), the, ii. +Abosu (mining village), ii. + the mine. +Africa, West, + proposed exchange of colonies between English and French, i. + trial by jury in, ii. + Amazon settlements. +African, characteristics of the 'civilised,' ii. + limited power of kings, + travelling, + Hades, + disinclination to agriculture. +'African Times,' the, character of its journalism, i. ; ii. +Ahema, discovery of a diamond at, ii. +Ahoho (ant), the, ii. +Ajamera, ii. +Aji Bipa (mine), general description of, ii. +Aka-kru, ii. +Akankon concession, the, + origin of name, ii. + mineral riches, + situation, + general description and capabilities, + native squabbles over title, + Cameron's scheme for its working and local establishment, + occupation suggested for the leisure of the mining staff, + working hours and food. +Akim, ii. +Akra, earthquake at, ii. +Akromasi, ii. +Akus (tribe), the, ii. +Albreda, i. +Alligator-pear (_Pertea gratislima_), the, i. +Alta Vista (Mt. Atlas), i. +Ananse (silk spider), the, ii. +Ancobra (river), the, + origin of name, ii. +Anima-kru, ii. +Apankru, a 'great central depot,' ii. +Apateplu (watch-bird), the, ii. +Apatim concession, the, capabilities of, ii. +Apo (chief), ii. +Apollonia, ii. +Apollonians (tribe), the, ii. +Arabokasu, ii. + situation of. +Ashanti, the 'scare' from, ii. + treaties with England, + Sir Garnet Wolseley's settlement only a partial success, + the royal place of human sacrifice, + her exclusion from the seaboard, + real and pretended causes of discontent, + the English Government's preparations to meet the 'imminent' invasion, + the King's excuses, + a mission of peace, + power and purport of the Gold Axe, + surrender of a false axe, + advocacy of a 'beach' for the Ashantis. +Assini (river), the, ii. +Atalaya (Canaries), and its troglodytic population, i. +Athole Hock, the, ii. +Axim, Port, + picturesque aspect of, ii. + the fort, + dispensary, + tomb of a Dutch governor, + climate, + the town, + poisonous pools, + paradoxes of prison life, + social phases, + characteristics of inhabitants, + peculiarities of personal names, + a negro 'king,' + his suite, + native swords, + native music, + 'compliments' to African chiefs, + geological notes, + stone implements, + revenue, + postal communication, + 'the threshold of the Gold-region,' + gold gathering, + hints on gold-mining, + fetish, + departure of caravan from, + cost of transport at, + cocoa-trees, + lagoonland, + the 'Winding Water,' + the bars of the river. + +Ball, a native, ii. +Bamboo-palm (_Raphia rigifera_), the, ii. +Bambuk mines, the, ii. +Bance (Bence's Island), i. +Bassam (Grand), ii. +Bathurst, physical formation, i. + history, + graveyard, + general aspect, + its 'one compensating feature,' + the black health officer, + commissariat quarters, + reminiscences respecting, + inhabitants, + dress, + religion, + horses, + the Wolof, the only native tongue spoken by Europeans, + the 'African Times,' + Chinese coolie labour advocated, + administrative expenses, + exports. +Beds, African, ii. +Bein, origin of name, ii. + the fort, +Birds, list of, collected by Capt. Burton and Commander Cameron, ii. +Black Devil Society (Liberia), ii. +Blake, Admiral Robert, at Tenerife, i. +Blay, King, state visit of, ii. + his guest-house, + costume, + served with a writ, + his inflamed foot attributed to fetish, + property in mines, + loyalty to British Government. +Bobowusua (a fetish-island), ii. +Boma (fetish-drum), the, ii. +Bombax-trees (_Puttom Ceiba_), i.; ii. +Bonnat, M., ii. +Bosomato, ii. +Bottomless Pit (Little Bassam), the, ii. +Boutoo, etymology of, i. +Brackenbury, Capt., on the capabilities of the Gold Coast, ii. +Brezo (_Erica arborea_), the, i. +Bristol barque trade, the, on the West African coast, i. +Brovi (hardest wood), ii. +Bulama (colony), Capt. Beaver's description of, i. +Bulloms (tribe), i. +Butabue rapids, the, ii. + +Calabar-Bean (_Physostigma venenosum_), ii. +Caldera de Bandana (Grand Canary), i. +Camara dos Lobos, i. +Cameron, Commander, his track and researches along the Gold Coast; i., ii. + personal account of further visits to the goldmines. +Canadas del Pico, Las, geological formation of; i. + flora, + average temperature. +Canarian Triquetra, the, i. +Canaries, the, cock-fighting at; i. + wine trade. +Canary-bird (_Fringilla Canaria_) the, i. +Canary (wine), i. +Cankey-stones, ii. +Cape Apollonia, origin of its name, ii. +Cape Girao, i. + Mount, + Palmas, + St. Mary, + Verde, derivation of name. +Capirote, or Tinto Negro (_Sylvia aticapilla_), the, i. +Cavally (river), the, ii. +Cephalonia, i. +Chasma, origin of, i. +Chigo (_Pulex penetrans_), the, ii. +Chinese coolie labour, ii. +Cinnabar vein, the, at Akankon, ii. +Cleanliness in W. African villages, ii. +Cochineal, ii. +Cocoa-tree, the, ii. +Codeso (_Adenocarpus frankenoides_), the, i. +Crannog, a, i. +Crockerville concession, description of the, ii. + tables of temperature, &c. at. +Cueva de Hielo, the, i. +Curlew (_Numenius arquata_), ii. +Custard-apple (_Anona squamosa_), i. + +Dahse concession, the, ii. +Dakar, harbour of, i. +Desertas, the, i. +Diamonds, ii. +Divining-rod, the, used in goldmining, ii. +Dixcove, ii. +Dorimas (Grand Canary), i. +Dos Idolos, i. +Dragoeiro (_Dracoena Draco_, Linn.), the, i. +Dragon-tree, the Tenerife, i. +Drake, Sir Francis, inscription at Sierra Leone attributed to him, ii. +Drewins, the, ii. +Dum (_Oldfieldia africana_), the, ii. + +Ebiasu, i. +Ebumesu (river), ii. +Eden, Dr., his account of the Guanches of Tenerife, i. +Effuenta mine, the, ii. +Elephants, ii. +Elisa Cartago, ii. +El-Islam, spread of, on the Gold Coast, ii. +Elmina, ii. +El Pilon, i. +Enframadie, ii. +Eshanchi (chief), ii. +Essua-ti, Mr. McCarthy's visit to, ii. +Esubeyah, ii. + +Felfa (_Gatropha curoas_), the, ii. +Fetish, i., ii. +Fetish-pot, the, i. +Fish-trap, an African, ii. +Fiume, i. +Fort James, i. +France as a colonising power, i., + proposed exchange of her West African Colonies with England. +Freetown, ii. +French colonisation _versus_ English, i. +Fresco-land, ii. +Fuerteventura, i. +Funchal, i. + +Gallinas (river), the, ii. +Gallo (fighting-cook), the, i. + at the Canaries. +Gambia (river), the, ii. + the French on the. +Garajao (Madeira), physical formation of, ii. +Garraway trees, the, ii. +Gibraltar, physical outline of, i. + from English and Spanish points of view. +Gold Axe, the Ashanti, powers and purport of the symbol, ii. +Gold Coast, Captain Brackenbury on the, ii. + Mining Company, Limited, the. +Gold-digging in N.W. Africa, i. + origin and history, + description of the best known gold provinces, + gold signs, + estimate of the gold supply. +Gold-region, the threshold of the, i. +Gold-weights, African, i. +Gold-working, development of the modes of, ii. +Goree, i. +Grand Bassa (Liberia), ii. +Grand Canary, i. + early attacks on, + description of the cathedral of Las Palmas, + the old palace of the Inquisition, + Hispano-Englishmen of Las Palmas, + excursions, + physical conformation and general view of, + dress of inhabitants, + troglodytic populations, + cochineal culture, + fluctuations in cochineal commerce, + wine culture. +Grand Curral (Madeira), the, i. +Grand Devil, the, of Kruland, ii. +Grand Tabu (island), ii. +Granton (Akankon), description of, ii. +Grebo war, the, ii. +Ground-hog, i. +Ground-nut (_Arackis hypogaea_), i. +Guanches (of Tenerife), their mummification of the dead, i. + inscriptions, + derivation of the name, + the Guanche pandemonium. +Guinea, peach (_Sarcophalus esculentus_), the, ii. +Gyaman, history of, ii. + +Hades, an African, ii. +Hahinni (_formica_), the, ii. +Harmatan (wind), origin of name, i. +Hierro, Numidio inscriptions of, i. +Hispano-Englishmen, i. +Hornbill (_Buccros_), the, ii. +Hydraulicking, ii. + +Iboes (tribe), the, ii. +Ice-cave, an, i. +Ingotro concession, approach to the, ii. + size, + native shafts in the valley of the Namoa, + origin of name, + the country 'impregnated with gold,' + climatal considerations. +Insimankao concession, the, ii. + situation of, + size and geographical position. +Inyoko concession, size and site, ii. + its geography and geology, + prospects. +Ionian Islands, i. +Islamism, progress of, in Africa, ii. +Izrah concession, the, ii. + derivation of name, + dimensions and site, + history, + conflicting native claims, + diary kept at the diggings, + birds, + idleness of native workmen, + geographical bearings, + formally made over by King Blay, + favourable prospects. + +James Island, i. +Japanese medlar (_Eriobotrya japonica_), the, i. +Jennings, Admiral, repulse of, in an attack on Tenerife, i. +Jervis, Admiral, failure of, before Tenerife, i. +Jungle-cow (or Nyare antelope, _Bosbrachyceros_), the, ii. +Jyachabo (silver-stone), ii. + +Kikam, ii. +Kingfisher (_alcedo_), the, ii. +King's Croom (mining village), ii. +Kokobene-Akitaki (mine), ii. +Kola-nuts (_Sterculia acuminata_), i. +Kong Mountains, ii. +Krumen, characteristics of the, ii. +Kumasi, origin of name, ii, +Kum-Brenni, origin of name, ii. +Kumprasi, ii. +Kwabina Bosom (fetish rocks), ii. +Kwabina Sensense (African chief), ii. +Kwansakru, a women's gold-mining village, ii. + +Labour, in West Africa, ii. + disinclination of natives to work, + influence of the decline of population on, + dearth of, + Stanley's observations, + superiority of native women to men as labourers, + estimate of the respective value of the various tribes as labourers, + wages paid to natives, + coolie immigration advocated. +Lagoon-land, ii. +Lake village, a, i. +Las Palmas, i. +Liberia, colonisation of, ii. + india-rubber and coffee produce, + 'the Black Devil Society', + progress of Islamism, + disinclination of natives to agriculture, + gold at. +Lightning-stones, ii. +Lisbon, material progress of, i. +Logan, Sir William, on 'hydraulicking', ii. +Lugar do Baixo, i. + +Machico, i. +Machim's Cross, i. +Madeira, first sight of, i. + conflicting claims of discoverers, + early accounts of, + physical contrasts with Porto Santo, + views of geologists on, + climate, + excursions, + contrasts of southern and northern coasts, + peasantry, + dress of peasants, + domestic life, + religious superstitions and morality, + emigration from, + geographical and geological characteristics, + Christmas at, + demeanour of priests at service, + amusements, + considered as a sanatorium, + sugar cultivation, + 'la petite industrie,' + tobacco, + pine-apples, + wines, + governmental shortcomings, + commerce. +Madeiran archipelago, the, geographical distribution of, i. + climate, + cedar-tree (_Jumperus Oxeycedrus_), the. +Mahogany (_Oldfieldia africana_), ii. +Mandenga (snake), the, i. +Mandengas (tribe), ii. +McCarthy, Mr. E. L., his visit to Essua-ti, ii. +Messina, i. +Money, African, i. +Monrovia, ii. +Moslem Krambos (talisman and charm writers), ii. +Mount Atlas, height of, i. + routine ascent of, + flora, + geology, + zones of vegetation, + characteristics of snow, + extinct volcanoes, + height of the Pike. +Mount Geddia, ii. +Mount Mesurado, the 'cradle of Liberia,' ii. +Muka concession, the, i. +Mummies, i. + +Nahalo (a women's village), ii. +Negro passengers on board the 'Senegal,' i. + idiosyncrasies of, + their 'pidgin English,' + school. +Nelson, Admiral, his repulse in an attack on Tenerife, i. +Newtown, ii. +Niba, i. +Nicknames, ii. +Nkran (formica), ii. +Nopal or Tunal plant (_Opuntia Tuna_ or _Cactus cochinellifer_), i. +Numidic inscriptions, i. + +Occros (_Hibiscus_), the, ii. +Oil-palm (_Elais guineensis_), ii. +Oji, etymology of, ii. +Ore, cost of reducing, ii. +Orotava, i. +Osprey (_Haliaetus_), the, ii. +Osraman-bo (lightning-stones), ii. + +Palm-birds (_Orioles_), ii. +Palm-wine, ii. +Palmyra (_Borassus flabelliformis_), the, ii. +Papaw, the, ii. +Patras, i. +Payne, Bishop, ii. +Pearl-culture, ii. +Pico del Pilon, the, i. +Pico Ruivo, i. +Pile-dwellings, i. +Pino del Dornajito, the, i. +Plants, list of, collected by Capt. Burton and Commander Cameron, ii. +Poke Islet, ii. +Polyandry, i. +Ponta do Sol, i. +Porto Loko, ii. +Porto Santo, i. +Prince's river, ii. + geographical aspect, + gold signs, + a true lagoon-stream, + animal life, + fish, + luxuriance of vegetation, + shifting aspects and bends of the river, + mining grounds, + idiosyncrasies of native travelling, + collecting plants, + insect pests, + Prince's fort, + local fetish. +Puerto de la Luz, i. + +Retama (_Cytisus fragrans_, Lam), the, i. + +San Christobal de la Laguna, i. +Sanguis Draiconis, i. +Sanma, i. +Santa Cruz (Madeira), i. +Santa Cruz (Tenerife), i. +Sao Joao do Principe, i. +Senegambia, French colonisation in, i. +Sickness on the West Coast of Africa, ii. + its remedies, + Tinctura Warburgii. +Sierra Leone, situation and aspect of, ii. + geological formation, + its only antiquity--Drake's inscription, + washerwomen, + St. George's Cathedral, + the market, + fruits, + vegetables, + meat, + leather, + snakes, + plan of the 'city', + climate, + clothing and diet suitable for, + rainy season, + the 'Kissy' road, + history of, + abolition of slavery, + its four colonies, + the Sierra Leone Company, + rival races of the Aku and Ibo, + trial by jury, + religious establishments, + negro psalmody, + negro education, + influence of the Moslem faith on the negro character, + journalism, + population, + native character, + bad influence of the colony, + a 'peddling' people, + agriculture, + the true system of negro education, + Chinese coolie labour advocated, + Stanley's observations on the natives', + disinclination to agriculture. +Sisaman (the African Hades), ii. +Slavery, notes on, ii. +Snakes, ii. +Spanish account of the repulse of Nelson from Santa Cruz de Tenerife, i. +Spiders, native beliefs concerning, ii. +Spur-plover (_Lobivanellus albiceps_), the, ii. +Stanley's, Mr., observations on the African labour question, ii. +St. John concession, the, ii. +St. Mary Bathurst, i. +Stone implements, ii. +Su, the African radical of water, ii. +Sulayma river, the, ii. +Sulphur, on Mount Atlas, analysis of, i. +Susus (tribe), the, i. +Swallow (_Wardenia nigrita_), the, ii. +Swanzy establishment, the, ii. +Swords, i. + +Tabayba (_Euphorbia canariensis_), the, ii. +Tagus, the, i. +Takwa, i. + character of its inhabitants, + geology. +Tamsoo-Mewoosoo mine, the, ii. +Tartessus, i. +Tasso Island, i. +Tebribi Hill (mine), ii. +Telde (Grand Canary), i. +Tenerife, i. + material progress of, + aridity, + religious establishments, + general aspect of streets, + Guanche mummies, + ancient implements and dress, + range of civilisation of the Guanches, + ancient inscriptions, + Guanche skulls, + catacombs, + dwellings of the Guanches, + powers of the Guanches as swimmers, + polyandry, + derivation of the name Guanche, + derivation of the name Tenerife, + language, + dress and personal appearance of inhabitants, + Irish immigration to, + hotel diet, + Jardin de Aclimatacion, + routine ascent of Mount Atlas, + geological formation, + volcanic type, + flora, + snow, + volcanoes, + height of Mount Atlas, + Admirals Blake, Jennings, and Jervis's defeats, + Nelson's repulse, + tobacco culture, + fighting-cocks, + wine. +Teyde, i. +Til-trees (_Oreodaphne foetens_), i. +Timnis (tribe), the, i. +Tinctura Warburgii, ii. +Tiya (_P. canariensis_), the, i. +Trade-gin, ii. +Troglodytic populations, i. +Tsetze-fly (_Glossinia morsitans_), the, i. +Tsil-fui-fui-fui (bird), the, ii. +Tumento, meaning of name, ii. + the 'grand central depot,' + Cameron's illness at, + geographical position of. + +Vai (tribe), ii. +Venice, i. +Vulture (Gypohierax angolensis), the, ii. + +Wages, scale of, on Gold Coast, ii. +Warry (a native game), ii. +Wasawahili (tribe), the, ii. +Wilberforce memorial, the, at Sierra Leone, i. +'Willyfoss' (Wilberforce) nigger, a, ii. +Winwood Reade, cited, ii. +Wolof, the, tongue spoken by Europeans, i. +Wolofs (tribe), the, i. +Wolseley, Sir Garnet, at Ashanti, ii. +Women's gold-mining village, a, ii. + +Zante, i. +Zodiacal light, the, i. + +THE END + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of To The Gold Coast for Gold, Vol. II, by +Richard Francis Burton and Verney Lovett Cameron + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TO THE GOLD COAST FOR GOLD *** + +***** This file should be named 18506.txt or 18506.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/1/8/5/0/18506/ + +Produced by Carlo Traverso, S.R. 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