diff options
94 files changed, 22993 insertions, 0 deletions
diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/18525-8.txt b/18525-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..e73104c --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,7633 @@ +Project Gutenberg's On the Trail, by Lina Beard and Adelia Belle Beard + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: On the Trail + An Outdoor Book for Girls + +Author: Lina Beard and Adelia Belle Beard + +Release Date: June 7, 2006 [EBook #18525] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ON THE TRAIL *** + + + + +Produced by Audrey Longhurst, Emmy and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + + + + + + + + + + +On the Trail + +An Outdoor Book for Girls + +By +LINA BEARD + +AND + +ADELIA BELLE BEARD + +With Illustrations by the Authors + +NEW YORK + +Charles Scribner's Sons + +1915 + +COPYRIGHT, 1915, BY + +CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS + +Published June, 1915 + + TO ALL GIRLS + WHO LOVE THE LIFE OF THE OPEN + WE DEDICATE THIS BOOK + +[Illustration: Over-night camp. + +Fire notice is posted on tree.] + + + + +PRESENTATION + + +The joyous, exhilarating call of the wilderness and the forest camp is +surely and steadily penetrating through the barriers of brick, stone, +and concrete; through the more or less artificial life of town and city; +and the American girl is listening eagerly. It is awakening in her +longings for free, wholesome, and adventurous outdoor life, for the +innocent delights of nature-loving Thoreau and bird-loving Burroughs. +Sturdy, independent, self-reliant, she is now demanding outdoor books +that are genuine and filled with practical information; books that tell +how to do worth-while things, that teach real woodcraft and are not +adapted to the girl supposed to be afraid of a caterpillar or to shudder +at sight of a harmless snake. + +In answer to the demand, "On the Trail" has been written. The authors' +deep desire is to help girls respond to this new, insistent call by +pointing out to them the open trail. It is their hope and wish that +their girl readers may seek the charm of the wild and may find the same +happiness in the life of the open that the American boy has enjoyed +since the first settler built his little cabin on the shores of the New +World. To forward this object, the why and how, the where and when of +things of camp and trail have been embodied in this book. + +Thanks are due to Edward Cave, president and editor of _Recreation_, for +kindly allowing the use of some of his wild-life photographs. + + LINA BEARD, + ADELIA BELLE BEARD. + FLUSHING, N. Y., + March 16, 1915. + + + + +CONTENTS + + CHAPTER PAGE + I. TRAILING 3 + II. WOODCRAFT 21 + III. CAMPING 44 + IV. WHAT TO WEAR ON THE TRAIL 84 + V. OUTDOOR HANDICRAFT 106 + VI. MAKING FRIENDS WITH THE OUTDOOR FOLK 119 + VII. WILD FOOD ON THE TRAIL 138 + VIII. LITTLE FOES OF THE TRAILER 165 + IX. ON THE TRAIL WITH YOUR CAMERA 187 + X. ON AND IN THE WATER 205 + XI. USEFUL KNOTS AND HOW TO TIE THEM 233 + XII. ACCIDENTS 244 + XIII. CAMP FUN AND FROLICS 255 + XIV. HAPPY AND SANE SUNDAY IN CAMP 269 + + + + +ILLUSTRATIONS + + +Over-night camp _Frontispiece_ + + PAGE +One can generally pass around obstructions like this on the trail 5 + +Difficulties of the Adirondack trail 9 + +Blazing the trail by bending down and breaking branches 11 + +Returning to camp by the blazed trail 13 + +Footprints of animals 17 + +Footprints of animals 19 + +Ink impressions of leaves 23 + +Ink impressions of leaves 24 + +Ink impressions of leaves 25 + +Pitch-pine and cone 26 + +Sycamore leaf and fruit of sycamore 26 + +How to use the axe 29 + +The compass and the North Star 37 + +A permanent camp 49 + +Outdoor shelters 51 + +Dining-tent, handy racks, and log bedstead 53 + +A forest camp by the water 55 + +In camp 57 + +The bough-bed, the cook-fire, and the wall-tent 59 + +Soft wood 63 + +Hard wood 65 + +Bringing wood for the fire 69 + +Camp fires and camp sanitation 81 + +Trailers' outfits 87 + +The head-net and blanket-roll 91 + +Some things to carry and how to carry them 101 + +Handicraft in the woods 107 + +Outdoor dressing-table, camp-cupboard, hammock-frame, seat, + and pot-hook 109 + +Camp-chair, biscuit-stick, and blanket camp-bed 111 + +The birch-bark dish that will hold fluids. Details of making 115 + +A bear would rather be your friend than your enemy 118 + +Making friends with a ruffed grouse 120 + +Found on the trail 122 + +Timber wolves 124 + +Baby moose 126 + +Stalking wild birds 128 + +The fish-hawk will sometimes build near the ground 131 + +Antelopes of the western plains 135 + +Good food on the trail 143 + +Fruits found principally in the south and the middle west 147 + +Fruits found principally in the north and the middle west 151 + +Fruits common to most of the States 155 + +Hickory nuts, sweet and bitter 159 + +Nuts with soft shells. Beechnut and chestnut 161 + +Poisonous and non-poisonous snakes 173 + +Plants poison to the touch 181 + +Plants poison to the taste 185 + +The white birch-tree makes a fine background for the beaver 191 + +Blacktail deer snapped with a background of snow 193 + +The skunk 195 + +The porcupine stood in the shade but the background was light 197 + +Photographing a woodcock from ambush 199 + +The country through which you pass, with a trailer in the foreground 201 + +Method of protecting roots to keep plants fresh while you carry + them to camp for photographing 203 + +A rowboat is a safer craft than a canoe 206 + +Keep your body steady 208 + +Canoeing on placid waters 210 + +Bring your canoe up broadside to the shore 212 + +How to use the paddle and a flat-bottomed rowboat 215 + +The raft of logs 219 + +Primitive weaving in raft building 221 + +Learn to be at home in the water 225 + +For dinner 229 + +The veteran 231 + +Bends in knot tying 235 + +Figure eight knot 237 + +Overhand bow-line knot 237 + +Underhand bow-line knot 239 + +Sheepshank knot 239 + +Parcel slip-knot 241 + +Cross-tie parcel knot 241 + +Fisherman's knot 241 + +The halter, slip-knot, and hitching-tie 243 + +The fireman's lift 245 + +Aids in "first aid" 247 + +Restoring respiration 253 + +When darkness closes in 259 + +Wood-thrush 261 + +Yellow-throated vireo 262 + +Fire without matches 264 + +Fire without the bow 267 + + + + +ON THE TRAIL + + + + +CHAPTER I + +TRAILING + +=What the Outdoor World Can Do for Girls. How to Find the Trail and How +to Keep It= + + +There is a something in you, as in every one, every man, woman, girl, +and boy, that requires the tonic life of the wild. You may not know it, +many do not, but there is a part of your nature that only the wild can +reach, satisfy, and develop. The much-housed, overheated, overdressed, +and over-entertained life of most girls is artificial, and if one does +not turn away from and leave it for a while, one also becomes greatly +artificial and must go through life not knowing the joy, the strength, +the poise that real outdoor life can give. + +What is it about a true woodsman that instantly compels our respect, +that sets him apart from the men who might be of his class in village or +town and puts him in a class by himself, though he may be exteriorly +rough and have little or no book education? The real Adirondack or the +North Woods guide, alert, clean-limbed, clear-eyed, hard-muscled, +bearing his pack-basket or duffel-bag on his back, doing all the hard +work of the camp, never loses his poise or the simple dignity which he +shares with all the things of the wild. It is bred in him, is a part of +himself and the life he leads. He is as conscious of his superior +knowledge of the woods as an astronomer is of his knowledge of the +stars, and patiently tolerates the ignorance and awkwardness of the +"tenderfoot" from the city. Only a keen sense of humor can make this +toleration possible, for I have seen things done by a city-dweller at +camp that would enrage a woodsman, unless the irresistibly funny side of +it made him laugh his inward laugh that seldom reaches the surface. + +To live for a while in the wild strengthens the muscles of your mind as +well as of your body. Flabby thoughts and flabby muscles depart together +and are replaced by enthusiasm and vigor of purpose, by strength of limb +and chest and back. To _have_ seems not so desirable as to _be_. When +you have once come into sympathy with this world of the wild--which +holds our cultivated, artificial world in the hollow of its hand and +gives it life--new joy, good, wholesome, heartfelt joy, will well up +within you. New and absorbing interests will claim your attention. You +will breathe deeper, stand straighter. The small, petty things of life +will lose their seeming importance and great things will look larger and +infinitely more worth while. You will know that the woods, the fields, +the streams and great waters bear wonderful messages for you, and, +little by little, you will learn to read them. + +The majority of people who visit the up-to-date hotels of the +Adirondacks, which their wily proprietors call camps, may think they see +the wild and are living in it. But for them it is only a big +picnic-ground through which they rush with unseeing eyes and whose +cloisters they invade with unfeeling hearts, seemingly for the one +purpose of building a fire, cooking their lunch, eating it, and then +hurrying back to the comforts of the hotel and the gayety of hotel life. + +[Illustration: One can generally pass around obstructions like this on +the trail.] + +At their careless and noisy approach the forest suddenly withdraws +itself into its deep reserve and reveals no secrets. It is as if they +entered an empty house and passed through deserted rooms, but all the +time the intruders are stealthily watched by unseen, hostile, or +frightened eyes. Every form of moving life is stilled and magically +fades into its background. The tawny rabbit halts amid the dry leaves of +a fallen tree. No one sees it. The sinuous weasel slips silently under a +rock by the side of the trail and is unnoticed. The mother grouse +crouches low amid the underbrush and her little ones follow her example, +but the careless company has no time to observe and drifts quickly by. +Only the irrepressible red squirrel might be seen, but isn't, when he +loses his balance and drops to a lower branch in his efforts to miss +nothing of the excitement of the invasion. + +This is not romance, it is truth. To think sentimentally about nature, +to sit by a babbling brook and try to put your supposed feelings into +verse, will not help you to know the wild. The only way to cultivate the +sympathy and understanding which will enable you to feel its +heart-beats, is to go to it humbly, ready to see the wonders it can +show; ready to appreciate and love its beauties and ready to meet on +friendly and cordial terms the animal life whose home it is. The wild +world is, indeed, a wonderful world; how wonderful and interesting we +learn only by degrees and actual experience. It is free, but not +lawless; to enter it fully we must obey these laws which are slowly and +silently impressed upon us. It is a wholesome, life-giving, inspiring +world, and when you have learned to conform to its rules you are met on +every hand by friendly messengers to guide you and teach you the ways of +the wild: wild birds, wild fruits and plants, and gentle, furtive, wild +animals. You cannot put their messages into words, but you can feel +them; and then, suddenly, you no longer care for soft cushions and rugs, +for shaded lamps, dainty fare and finery, for paved streets and concrete +walks. You want to plant your feet upon the earth in its natural state, +however rugged or boggy it may be. You want your cushions to be of the +soft moss-beds of the piny woods, and, with the unparalleled sauce of a +healthy, hearty appetite, you want to eat your dinner out of doors, +cooked over the outdoor fire, and to drink water from a birch-bark cup, +brought cool and dripping from the bubbling spring. + +You want, oh! how you want to sleep on a springy bed of balsam boughs, +wrapped in soft, warm, woollen blankets with the sweet night air of all +outdoors to breathe while you sleep. You want your flower-garden, not +with great and gorgeous masses of bloom in evident, orderly beds, but +keeping always charming surprises for unexpected times and in +unsuspected places. You want the flowers that grow without your help in +ways you have not planned; that hold the enchantment of the wilderness. +Some people are born with this love for the wild, some attain it, but in +either case the joy is there, and to find it you must seek it. Your +chosen trail may lead through the primeval forests or into the great +western deserts or plains; or it may reach only left-over bits of the +wild which can be found at no great distance from home. Even a bit of +meadow or woodland, even an uncultivated field on the hilltop, will give +you a taste of the wild; and if you strike the trail in the right spirit +you will find upon arrival that these remnants of the wild world have +much to show and to teach you. There are the sky, the clouds, the +lungfuls of pure air, the growing things which send their roots where +they will and not in a man-ordered way. There is the wild life that +obeys no man's law: the insects, the birds, and small four-footed +animals. On all sides you will find evidences of wild life if you will +look for it. Here you may make camp for a day and enjoy that day as much +as if it were one of many in a several weeks' camping trip. + +However, this is not to be a book of glittering generalities but, as far +as it can be made, one of practical helpfulness in outdoor life; +therefore when you are told to strike the trail you must also be told +how to do it. + + +=When You Strike the Trail= + +For any journey, by rail or by boat, one has a general idea of the +direction to be taken, the character of the land or water to be crossed, +and of what one will find at the end. So it should be in striking the +trail. Learn all you can about the path you are to follow. Whether it is +plain or obscure, wet or dry; where it leads; and its length, measured +more by time than by actual miles. A smooth, even trail of five miles +will not consume the time and strength that must be expended upon a +trail of half that length which leads over uneven ground, varied by bogs +and obstructed by rocks and fallen trees, or a trail that is all up-hill +climbing. If you are a novice and accustomed to walking only over smooth +and level ground, you must allow more time for covering the distance +than an experienced person would require and must count upon the +expenditure of more strength, because your feet are not trained to the +wilderness paths with their pitfalls and traps for the unwary, and every +nerve and muscle will be strained to secure a safe foothold amid the +tangled roots, on the slippery, moss-covered logs, over precipitous +rocks that lie in your path. It will take time to pick your way over +boggy places where the water oozes up through the thin, loamy soil as +through a sponge; and experience alone will teach you which hummock of +grass or moss will make a safe stepping-place and will not sink beneath +your weight and soak your feet with hidden water. Do not scorn to learn +all you can about the trail you are to take, although your questions may +call forth superior smiles. It is not that you hesitate to encounter +difficulties, but that you may prepare for them. In unknown regions take +a responsible guide with you, unless the trail is short, easily +followed, and a frequented one. Do not go alone through lonely places; +and, being on the trail, keep it and try no explorations of your own, at +least not until you are quite familiar with the country and the ways of +the wild. + +[Illustration: Difficulties of the Adirondack trail. + +Facsimile of drawing made by a trailer (not the author) after a day in +the wilds of an Adirondack forest. Not a good drawing, perhaps, but a +good illustration.] + + +=Blazing the Trail= + +A woodsman usually blazes his trail by chipping with his axe the trees +he passes, leaving white scars on their trunks, and to follow such a +trail you stand at your first tree until you see the blaze on the next, +then go to that and look for the one farther on; going in this way from +tree to tree you keep the trail though it may, underfoot, be overgrown +and indistinguishable. + +If you must make a trail of your own, blaze it as you go by bending down +and breaking branches of trees, underbrush, and bushes. Let the broken +branches be on the side of bush or tree in the direction you are going, +but bent down away from that side, or toward the bush, so that the +lighter underside of the leaves will show and make a plain trail. Make +these signs conspicuous and close together, for in returning, a dozen +feet without the broken branch will sometimes confuse you, especially as +everything has a different look when seen from the opposite side. By +this same token it is a wise precaution to look back frequently as you +go and impress the homeward-bound landmarks on your memory. If in your +wanderings you have branched off and made ineffectual or blind trails +which lead nowhere, and, in returning to camp, you are led astray by one +of them, do not leave the false trail and strike out to make a new one, +but turn back and follow the false trail to its beginning, for it must +lead to the true trail again. _Don't lose sight of your broken +branches._ + +[Illustration: Blazing the trail by bending down and breaking branches.] + +If you carry a hatchet or small axe you can make a permanent trail by +blazing the trees as the woodsmen do. Kephart advises blazing in this +way: make one blaze on the side of the tree away from the camp and two +blazes on the side toward the camp. Then when you return you look for +the _one_ blaze. In leaving camp again to follow the same trail, you +look for the _two_ blazes. If you should lose the trail and reach it +again you will know to a certainty which direction to take, for two +blazes mean _camp on this side_; one blaze, _away from camp on this +side_. + + +=To Know an Animal Trail= + +To know an animal trail from one made by men is quite important. It is +easy to be led astray by animal trails, for they are often well defined +and, in some cases, well beaten. To the uninitiated the trails will +appear the same, but there is a difference which, in a recent number of +_Field and Stream_, Mr. Arthur Rice defines very clearly in this way: +"Men step _on_ things. Animals step _over_ or around things." Then again +an animal trail frequently passes under bushes and low branches of trees +where men would cut or break their way through. To follow an animal +trail is to be led sometimes to water, often to a bog or swamp, at times +to the animal's den, which in the case of a bear might not be exactly +pleasant. + +[Illustration: Returning to camp by the blazed trail. + +_Note the blazed trees._] + + +=Lost in the Woods= + +We were in the wilderness of an Adirondack forest making camp for the +day and wanted to see the beaver-dam which, we were told, was on the +edge of a near-by lake. The guide was busy cooking dinner and we would +not wait for his leisure, but leaving the rest of the party, we started +off confidently, just two of us, down the perfectly plain trail. For a +short distance there was a beaten path, then, suddenly, the trail came +to an abrupt end. We looked this side and that. No trail, no appearance +of there ever having been one. With a careless wave of his arm, the +guide had said: "Keep in that direction." "That" being to the left, to +the left we therefore turned and stormed our way through thicket and +bramble, breaking branches as we went. Sliding down declivities, +scrambling over fallen trees, dipping beneath low-hung branches, we +finally came out upon the shore of the lake and found that we had struck +the exact spot where the beaver-dam was located. + +It was only a short distance from camp and it had not taken us long to +make it, but when we turned back we warmly welcomed the sight of our +blazed trail, for all else was strange and unfamiliar. Going there had +been glimpses of the water now and then to guide us, returning we had no +landmarks. Even my sense of direction, usually to be relied on and upon +which I had been tempted to depend solely, seemed to play me false when +we reached a place where our blazing was lost sight of. The twilight +stillness of the great forest enveloped us; there was no sign of our +camp, no sound of voices. A few steps to our left the ground fell away +in a steep precipice which, in going, we had passed unnoticed and which, +for the moment, seemed to obstruct our way. Then turning to the right we +saw a streak of light through the trees that looked, at first, like +water where we felt sure no water could be if we were on the right path; +but we soon recognized this as smoke kept in a low cloud by the +trees--the smoke of our camp-fire. That was our beacon, and we were soon +on the trail again and back in camp. This is not told as an adventure, +but to illustrate the fact that without a well-blazed trail it is easier +to become lost in a strange forest than to find one's way. + +You may strike the trail with the one object in view of reaching your +destination as quickly as possible. This will help you to become agile +and sure-footed, to cover long distances in a short time, but it will +not allow of much observation until your mind has become alert and your +eyes trained to see quickly the things of the forests and plains, and to +read their signs correctly. Unless there is necessity for haste, it is +better to take more time and look about you as you go. To hurry over the +trail is to lose much that is of interest and to pass by unseeingly +things of great beauty. When you are new to the trail and must hurry, +you are intent only on what is just before you--usually the feet of your +guide--or if you raise your eyes to glance ahead, you notice objects +simply as things to be reached and passed as quickly as possible. +Unhurried trailing will repay you by showing you what the world of the +wild contains. + +Walking slowly you can realize the solemn stillness of the forest, can +take in the effect of the gray light which enfolds all things like a +veil of mystery. You can stop to examine the tiny-leafed, creeping vines +that cover the ground like moss and the structure of the soft mosses +with fronds like ferns. You can catch the jewel-like gleam of the wood +flowers. You can breathe deeply and rejoice in the perfume of the balsam +and pine. You can rest at intervals and wait quietly for evidences of +the animal life that you know is lurking, unseen, all around you; and +you can begin to perceive the protecting spirit of the wild that hovers +over all. + +To walk securely, as the woodsmen walk, without tripping, stumbling, or +slipping, use the woodsmen's method of planting the entire foot on the +ground, with toes straight ahead, not turned out. If you put your heel +down first, while crossing on a slippery log as in ordinary walking, the +natural result will be a fall. With your entire foot as a base upon +which to rest, the body is more easily balanced and the foot less likely +to slip. When people slip and fall on the ice, it is because the edge of +the heel strikes the ice first and slides. The whole foot on the ice +would not slip in the same way, and very often not at all. + +Trailing does not consist merely in walking along a path or in making +one for yourself. It has a larger meaning than that and embraces various +lines of outdoor life, while it always presupposes movement of some +kind. In one sense going on the trail means going on the hunt. You may +go on the trail for birds, for animals, for insects, plants, or flowers. +You may trail a party of friends ahead of you, or follow a deer to its +drinking-place; and in all these cases you must look for the signs of +that which you seek. + + +=Footprints or Tracks= + +In trailing animals look for footprints in soft earth, sand, or snow. +The hind foot of the muskrat will leave a print in the mud like that of +a little hand, and with it will be the fore-foot print, showing but four +short fingers, and generally the streaks where the hard tail drags +behind. Fig. 4 shows what these look like. If you are familiar with the +dog track you will know something about the footprints of the fox, wolf, +and coyote, for they are much alike. Fig. 9 gives a clean track of the +fox, but often there is the imprint of hairs between and around the +toes. A wolf track is larger and is like Fig. 8. The footprint of a deer +shows the cloven hoof, with a difference between the buck's and the +doe's. The doe's toes are pointed and, when not spread, the track is +almost heart-shaped (Fig. 7), while the buck has blunter, more rounded +toes, like Fig. 10. The two round lobes are at the back of the foot, +the other end points in the direction the deer has taken. Sometimes you +will find deer tracks with the toes spread wide apart. That means the +animal has been running. All animals' toes spread more or less when they +run. A bear track is like Fig. 11, but a large bear often leaves other +evidences of his presence than his footprints. He will frequently turn a +big log over or tear one open in his search for ants. He will stand on +his hind legs and gnaw a hole in a dead tree or tall stump, and a +bee-tree will bear the marks of his climbing on its trunk. It is +interesting to find a tree with the scars of bruin's feet, made +prominent by small knobs where his claws have sunk into the bark. Each +scar swells and stands out like one of his toes. When you see bark +scraped off the trees some distance from the ground, you may be sure +that a horned animal has passed that way. Where the trees are not far +apart a wide-horned animal, like the bull moose, scrapes the bark with +his antlers as he passes. + +[Illustration: Footprints of animals. + +1 Caribou + +2 Mink + +3 Red Squirrel + +4 Fore foot of Muskrat, Hind foot of Muskrat, Tail of Muskrat + +5 Fisher + +6 Canada Lynx] + +The cat-like lynx leaves a cat-like track (Fig. 6), which shows no print +of the claws, and the mink's track is like Fig. 2. Rabbits' tracks are +two large oblongs, then two almost round marks. The oblongs are the +print of the large hind feet, which, with the peculiar gait of the +rabbit, always come first. The large, hind-feet tracks point the +direction the animal has taken. Fig. 1 is the track of the caribou, and +shows the print of the dew-claws, which are the two little toes up high +at the back of the foot. It is when the earth is soft and the foot sinks +in deeply that the dew-claws leave a print, or perhaps when the foot +spreads wide in running. + +[Illustration: Footprints of animals. + +7 Doe + +8 Wolf + +9 Fox + +10 Buck + +11 Bear + +12 Sheep] + +Fig. 3 is the print of the foot of a red squirrel. Fig. 5 is the +fisher's track, and Fig. 12 is that of a sheep. Pig tracks are much like +those of sheep, but wider. When you have learned to recognize the +varying freshness of tracks you will know how far ahead the animal +probably is. Other tracks you will learn as you become more familiar +with the animals, and you will also be able to identify the tracks of +the wild birds. + + + + +CHAPTER II + +WOODCRAFT + +=Trees. Practical Use of Compass. Direction of Wind. Star Guiding. What +to Do When Lost in the Woods. How to Chop Wood. How to Fell Trees.= + + +=Trees= + +While on the trail you will find a knowledge of trees most useful, and +you should be able to recognize different species by their manner of +growth, their bark and foliage. + + +=Balsam-Fir= + +One of the most important trees for the trailer to know is the +balsam-fir, for of this the best of outdoor beds are made. In shape the +tree is like our Christmas-trees--in fact, many Christmas-trees are +balsam-fir. + +The sweet, aromatic perfume of the balsam needles is a great aid in +identifying it. The branches are flat and the needles appear to grow +from the sides of the stem. The little twist at the base of the needle +causes it to seem to grow merely in the straight, outstanding row on +each side of the stem; look closely and you will see the twist. + +The needles are flat and short, hardly one inch in length; they are +grooved along the top and the ends are decidedly blunt; in color they +are dark bluish-green on the upper side and silvery-white underneath. +The bark is gray, and you will find little gummy blisters on the +tree-trunk. From these the healing Canada balsam is obtained. The short +cones, often not over two inches in length, the longest seldom more than +four inches, stand erect on top of the small branches, and when young +are of a purplish color. + +From Maine to Minnesota the balsam-fir grows in damp woods and mountain +bogs, and you will find it southward along the Alleghany Mountains from +Pennsylvania to North Carolina. + + +=Spruce= + +The spruce, red, black, and white, differs in many respects from the +balsam-fir: the needles are sharp-pointed, not blunt, and instead of +being flat like the balsam-fir, they are four-sided and cover the +branchlet on all sides, causing it to appear rounded or bushy and not +flat. The spruce-gum sought by many is found in the seams of the bark, +which, unlike the smooth balsam-fir, is scaly and of a brown color. +Early spring is the time to look for spruce-gum. Spruce is a soft wood, +splits readily and is good for the frames and ribs of boats, also for +paddles and oars, and the bark makes a covering for temporary shelters. + + +=Hemlock= + +This tree is good for thatching a lean-to when balsam-fir is not to be +found, and its bark can be used in the way of shingles. + +The cones are small and hang down from the branches; they do not stand +up alert like those of the balsam-fir, nor are they purple in color, +being rather of a bright red-brown, and when very young, tan color. The +wood is not easy to split--don't try it, or your hatchet will suffer in +consequence and the pieces will be twisted as a usual thing. The +southern variety, however, often splits straight. + +[Illustration: Horse-chestnut. + +Sugar-maple. + +Alder. + +Ink impressions of leaves.] + +[Illustration: Balsam-Fir. + +Spruce. + +Hemlock.] + +[Illustration: White oak. + +Linden. + +Ink impressions of leaves.] + +[Illustration: Pitch-pine and cone. + +Sycamore leaf and fruit of sycamore. + +(The buttonball.)] + + +=Pine= + +The pine-tree accommodates itself to almost any kind of soil, high, low, +moist, or dry, often growing along the edge of the water. + +The gray pine is sometimes used for making the skeleton of a canoe or +other boats, and the white pine for the skin or covering of the skeleton +boat; but for you the pine will probably be most useful in furnishing +pine-knots, and its soft wood for kindling your outdoor fire. + +The trees mentioned abound in our northern forests. The birch in its +different varieties is there also, but rarely ventures into the densest +woods, preferring to remain near and on its outskirts. However, none of +these trees confine themselves strictly to one locality. + +Oaks, hickory, chestnut, maples, and sycamore are among the useful woods +for campers. + +Learn the quality and nature of the different trees. Each variety is +distinct from the others: some woods are easy to split, such as spruce, +chestnut, balsam-fir, etc.; some very strong, as locust, oak, hickory, +sugar-maple, etc.; then there are the hard and soft woods mentioned in +fire-making. + +When you once understand the characteristics of the different woods, and +their special qualifications, becoming familiar with only two or three +varieties at a time, the trees will be able to help you according to +their special powers. You would not go to a musician to have a portrait +painted, for while the musician might give you wonderful music he would +be helpless as far as painting a picture was concerned, and so it is +with trees. They cannot all give the same thing; if you want soft wood, +it is wasting your time to go to hardwood trees; they cannot give you +what they do not possess. Know the possibilities of trees and they will +not fail you. + + +=How to Chop Wood= + +Trailing and camping both mean wood-chopping to some extent for +shelters, fires, etc., and the girl of to-day should understand, as did +the girls of our pioneer families, how to handle properly a hatchet, or +in this case we will make it a belt axe. There is a small hatchet +modelled after the Daniel Boone tomahawk, generally known as the "camp +axe." It is thicker, narrower, and has a sharper edge than an ordinary +hatchet. It comes of a size to wear on the belt and must be securely +protected by a well-fitted strong leather sheath; otherwise it will +endanger not only the life of the girl who carries it, but also the +lives of her companions. With the camp axe (hatchet) you can cut down +small trees, chop fire-wood, blaze trees, drive down pegs or stakes, and +chop kindling-wood. Every time you want to use the hatchet take the +precaution to examine it thoroughly and reassure yourself that the tool +is in good condition and that the _head_ is _on firm_ and _tight_; be +positive of this. + +Great caution must be taken when chopping kindling-wood, as often +serious accidents occur through ignorance or carelessness. Do not raise +one end of a stick up on a log with the other end down on the ground and +then strike the centre of the stick a sharp blow with the sharp edge of +your hatchet; the stick will break, but one end usually flies up with +considerable force and very often strikes the eye of the worker, ruining +the sight forever. Take the blunt end of your hatchet and do not give a +very hard blow on the stick you wish to break; exert only force +sufficient to break it partially, merely enough to enable you to finish +the work with your hands and possibly one knee. It may require a little +more time, but your eyes will be unharmed, which makes it worth while. +Often children use a heavy stone to break kindling-wood, with no +disastrous results that I know of. The heavy stone does not seem to +cause the wood to fly upward. + +[Illustration: Stand on the log when you chop it. + +13 14 15 16 + +17 For safety. + +The stump will be like this on top when the tree is down. + +How to use the axe.] + + +=How to Chop Logs= + +Practise on small, slender logs, chopping them in short lengths until +you understand something of the woodsman's art of "logging up a tree"; +then and not until then should you attempt to cut heavier wood. + +If you are sure-footed and absolutely certain that you can stand firmly +on the log without teetering or swaying when leaning over, do so. You +can then chop one side of the log half-way through and turn around and +chop the other side until the second notch or "kerf" is cut through to +the first one on the opposite side, and the two pieces fall apart. While +working stand on the log with feet wide apart and chop the _side_ of the +log (not the top) on the space in front between your feet. Make your +first chip quite long, and have it equal in length the diameter of the +log. If the chip is short, the opening of the kerf will be narrow and +your hatchet will become wedged, obliging you to double your labor by +enlarging the kerf. Greater progress will be made by chopping diagonally +across the grain of the wood, and the work will be easier. It is +difficult to cut squarely against the grain and this is always avoided +when possible. After you have cut the first chip in logging up a tree, +chop on the base of the chip, swinging your hatchet from the opposite +direction, and the chip will fall to the ground. + +Having successfully chopped off one piece of the log, it will be a +simple matter to cut off more. Chop slowly, easily, and surely. Don't be +in a hurry and exhaust yourself; only a novice overexerts and tries to +make a deep cut with the hatchet. + +Be careful of the blade of your hatchet; keep it free from the ground +when chopping, to avoid striking snags, stones, or other things liable +to nick or dull the edge. + + +=How to Fell a Tree= + +Content yourself with chopping down only slender trees, mere saplings, +at first, and as you acquire skill, slightly heavier trees can be +felled. Begin in the right way with your very first efforts and follow +the woodsman's method. + +Having selected the tree you desire to cut down, determine in which +direction you want it to fall and mark that side, but first make sure +that when falling, the tree will not lodge in another one near by or +drop on one of the camp shelters. See that the way is free of hindrance +before cutting the tree, also _clear the way_ for the swing of your +extended _hatchet_. If there are obstacles, such as vines, bushes, limbs +of other trees, or rocks, which your hatchet might strike as you raise +and lower it while at work, clear them all away, making a generous open +space on all sides, overhead, on the right and left side, and below the +swing of the hatchet. Take no chance of having an accident, as would +occur should the hatchet become entangled or broken. + +You may have noticed that the top surface of most stumps has a +splintered ridge across its centre, and on one side of the ridge the +wood is lower than on the other; this is because of the manner in which +a woodsman fells a tree. If he wants the tree to fall toward the west he +marks the west side of the trunk; then he marks the top and bottom of +the space he intends chopping out for the first kerf or notch (Fig. 13, +_A_ and _B_), making the length of space a trifle longer than one-half +of the tree diameter. The kerf is chopped out by cutting first from the +top _A_, then from the bottom _B_ (Fig. 14). When the first kerf is +finished and cut half-way through the tree, space for the kerf on the +opposite side of the tree is marked a few inches higher than the first +one (Fig. 15, _C_ and _D_) and then it also is cut (Fig. 16). + +After you have chopped the two kerfs in a tree, you will know when it is +about to fall by the creaking and the slight movement of its top. Step +to _one side_ of the falling tree, never behind or in front of it; +either of the last two ways would probably mean death: if in front, the +tree would fall on you, and if at the back, you would probably be +terribly injured if not killed, as trees often kick backward with +tremendous force as they go down; so be on your guard, keep cool, and +deliberately step to the side of the tree and watch it fall. + +Choose a quiet day, when there is no wind, for tree-felling. You cannot +control the wind, and it may control your tree. + +Never allow your hatchet to lie on the ground, a menace to every one at +camp, but have a particular log or stump and always strike the blade in +this wood. Leave your hatchet there, where it will not be injured, can +do no harm, and you will always know where to find it (Fig. 17). + + +=Etiquette of the Wild= + +Translated this means "_hands off_." The unwritten law of the woods is +that personal property cached in trees, underbrush, beneath stones, or +hidden underground must never be _taken_, _borrowed_, _used_, or +_molested_. + +Canoes and oars will often be discovered left by owners, sometimes +fastened at the water's edge, again suspended from trees, and the +temptation to borrow may be strong, but remember such an act would be +dishonorable and against the rules that govern the outdoor world. + +Provisions, tools, or other articles found in the forests should be +respected and allowed to remain where they are. It is customary for +campers to cache their belongings with the assurance that forest +etiquette will be held inviolate and their goods remain unmolested. + +Every one has the privilege of examining and enjoying the beauties of +mosses, berries, and wild flowers, but do not take these treasures from +their homes to die and be thrown aside. Love them well enough to let +them stay where they are for others also to enjoy, unless you need +specimens for some important special study. + +A man who had always lived in the Adirondack forests, and at present is +proprietor of an Adirondack hotel, recently reforested many acres of his +wooded wild lands by planting through the forests little young trees, +some not over one foot high, and his indignation was great when he +discovered that many of his guests when off on tramps returned laden +with these baby trees, which were easily pulled up by the roots because +so lately planted. + + +=Finding Your Way by Natural Signs and the Compass= + +An important phase of woodcraft is the ability to find your way in the +wilderness by means of natural signs as well as the compass. If, +however, you do not know at what point of the compass from you the camp +lies, the signs can be of no avail. Having this knowledge, the signs +will be invaluable. + +_Get your bearings before leaving camp._ Do not depend upon any member +of the party, but know for yourself. + +If you have a map giving the topography of land surrounding the +camping-grounds, consult it. Burn into your memory the direction _from_ +camp of outlying landmarks, those near and those as far off as you can +see in all directions. The morning you leave camp, ascertain the +direction of the wind and notice particularly the sun and shadows. If +it is early morning, face the sun and you will be looking toward the +east. Stretch out both arms at your sides and point with your +index-fingers; your right finger will point to the south, your left to +the north, and your back will be toward the west. What landmarks do you +see east of the camp? South? North? West? And from what point of the +compass does the wind blow? If it comes from the west and you trail +eastward, the wind will strike your back going away from camp and should +strike your face returning, provided its direction does not change. +Again, if you go east, your camp will lie west of you, and your homeward +path must be westward. Consult your compass and know exactly which +direction you take when leaving camp, and blaze your trail as you go, +looking backward frequently to see how landmarks should appear as you +face them returning. + +With all these friends to guide you, first, the map; second, sun; third, +shadows; fourth, wind; fifth, compass; sixth, your bent-twig blazing, +there will be little, if any, danger of being lost. But you must +constantly keep on the alert and refer frequently to these guides, +especially when deflecting from the course first taken after leaving +camp. At every turning, stop and take your bearings anew; you cannot be +too careful. + +These signs are for daylight; at night the North Star will be your +guide. + + +=Sunlight and Shadow= + +Bearing in mind that the sun rises in the east and sets in the west, it +will be comparatively easy to keep your right course by consulting the +sun. A fair idea may also be gained of the time of day by the length of +shadows, if you remember that shadows are long in the morning and +continue to grow shorter until midday, when they again begin to +lengthen, growing longer and longer until night. + +To find the direction of the sun on a cloudy day, hold a flat splinter +or your knife blade vertically, so that it is absolutely straight up and +down. Place the point of the blade on your thumb-nail, watch-case, or +other glossy surface; then turn the knife or splinter around until the +full shadow of the flat of blade or splinter falls on the bright +surface, telling the location of the sun. + +An open spot where the sun can cast a clear shadow, and an hour when the +sun is not immediately overhead, will give best results. + + +=Wind= + +The wind generally blows in the same direction all day, and if you learn +to understand its ways, the wind will help you keep the right trail. +Make a practise of testing the direction of the wind every morning. +Notice the leaves on bush and tree, in what direction they move. Place a +few bits of paper on your open hand and watch in which way the wind +carries them; if there is no paper, try the test with dry leaves, grass, +or anything light and easily carried by the breeze. Smoke will also show +the direction of the wind. + +When the wind is very faint, put your finger in your mouth, wet it on +all sides, and hold it up; the side on which the wind blows will feel +cool and tell from what quarter the wind comes: if on the east side of +your finger, the wind blows from the east, and so on. Keep testing the +direction of the wind as you trail, and if at any time it cools a +different side of the finger, you will know that you are not walking in +the same direction as when you left camp and must turn until the wet +finger tells you which way to go. The wind is a good guide so long as +it keeps blowing in the same direction as when you left camp. + + +=Use of Compass= + +Should you be on the trail and sudden storm-clouds appear, the sun +cannot help you find your way; the shadows have gone. Moss on +tree-trunks is not an infallible guide and you must turn to the compass +to show the way, but unless you understand its language you will not +know what it is telling you. Learn the language before going to camp; it +is not difficult. + +Hold the compass out in a _level position_ directly in front of you; be +_sure_ it is level; then decide to go north. Consult the compass and +ascertain in which direction the north lies. The compass needle points +directly north with the north end of the needle; this end is usually +black, sometimes pearl. Let your eye follow straight along the line +pointed out by the needle; as you look ahead select a landmark--tree, +rock, pond, or whatever may lie in that direction. Choose an object +quite a distance off on the imaginary line, go directly toward it, and +when intervening objects obscure the landmark, refer to your compass. If +you have turned from the pathway north, face around and readjust your +steps in the right direction. Do not let over two minutes pass without +making sure by the compass that you are going on the right path, going +directly north. + +[Illustration: Mariner's Compass.] + +[Illustration: Common Compass.] + +[Illustration: Big Dipper. + +Little Dipper. + +The compass and the North Star.] + +Practise using the compass for a guide until you understand it; have +faith in it and you may fearlessly trust to its guidance. Try going +according to various points of the compass: suppose you wish to go +southeast, the compass tells you this as plainly as the north; try it. +Naturally, if you go to the southeast away from camp, returning will +be in exactly the opposite direction, and coming back to camp you must +walk northwest. After learning to go in a straight line, guided entirely +by the compass, try a zigzag path. A group of girls will find it good +sport to practise trailing with the compass, and they will at the same +time learn how to avoid being lost and how to help others find their +way. It is possible to + + +=Make a Compass of Your Watch= + +Besides keeping you company with its friendly nearness, its ticking and +its ready answers to your questions regarding the time, a watch in the +woods and fields has another use, for it can be used as a compass. It +will show just where the south is, then by turning your back on the +south you face the north, and on your right is the east and on your left +the west. These are the rules: + +With your watch in a horizontal position point the hour-hand to the sun, +and if before noon, half-way between the hour hand and 12 is due south. +If it is afternoon calculate the opposite way. For instance, if at 8 A. +M. you point the hour-hand to the sun, 10 will point to the south, for +that is half-way between 8 and 12. If at 2 P. M. you point the hour-hand +to the sun, look back to 12, and half the distance will be at 1, +therefore 1 points to the south. + +An easy way to get the direction of the sun without looking directly at +it is by means of the shadow of a straight, slender stick or grass stem +thrown on the horizontal face of your watch. Hold the stick upright with +the lower end touching the watch at the _point_ of the hour-hand, then +turn the watch until the shadow of the stick falls along the hour-hand. +This will point the hand undeviatingly toward the sun. + + +=Mountain Climbing= + +The campers should go together to climb the mountain, never one girl +alone. + +Before starting, find a strong stick to use as a staff; stow away some +luncheon in one of your pockets; see that your camera is in perfect +order, ready to use at a moment's notice; that your water-proof +match-box is in your pocket filled with safety matches, your +pocket-knife safe with you, also watch and compass, and that the tin cup +is on your belt. Your whistle being always hung around your neck will, +of course, be there as usual. + +When you are ready, stand still and look about you once more to make +sure of your bearings; close your eyes and tell yourself exactly what +you have seen. After leaving camp and arriving at the foot of the +mountain, take your bearings anew; then look up ahead and select a +certain spot which you wish to reach on the upward trail. Having this +definite object in view will help in making better progress and save +your walking around in a circle, which is always the tendency when in a +strange place and intervening trees or elevations obstruct the view, or +when not sure of the way and trying to find it. + +Begin blazing the trail at your first step up the mountain side. Even +though there may be a trail already, you cannot be sure that it will +continue; it is much safer to depend upon your own blazing. + +Often in trailing along the mountain you will find huge rocks and steep +depressions, or small lakes which you cannot cross over but must go +around, and in so doing change your direction, perhaps strike off at an +angle. Before making the detour, search out some large landmark, readily +recognized after reaching the other side of the obstruction, a tall, +peculiarly shaped tree or other natural feature. Now is the time to try +earnestly to keep the landmark in sight as long as possible and to be +able to recognize it when you see it again. Watch your compass and the +sun that you may continue in the right direction after circling the +obstruction. Go slow in climbing, take your time and don't get out of +breath. + +On many mountains the possibility of unexpected fogs exists, and safety +requires that the party be linked together with a soft rope; the same +precaution should be taken when the trail is very rough, steep, and +rocky. The camper at the head of the line should tie the rope in a +bow-line around her waist, with knot on left side, and eight or ten feet +from her the next girl should link herself to the rope in the same +manner; then another girl, and another, until the entire party is on the +rope. + +The leader starts on the trail and the others, holding fast to their +staffs, carefully follow, each one cautious to keep the rope stretching +out in front of her rather taut; then if one girl stumbles the others +brace themselves and keep her from falling. + +When descending the mountain, be careful to get a firm footing. Instead +of facing the trail, it is safer to turn sideways, so that you can place +the entire foot down and not risk the toes only, or the heels. Often +coming down either a steep hill or a mountain is more difficult than +going up. + + +=Lost in the Woods= + +It is not at all probable that you will lose your way while on the +trail, but if you should find yourself lost in the woods or in the open, +the first thing to do is to remember that a brave girl does not get into +a panic and so rob herself of judgment and the power to think clearly +and act quickly. Believe firmly that you are _safe_, then sit down +quietly and think out a plan of finding your way. Try to remember from +which direction you have come and to recall landmarks. If you cannot do +this, do not be frightened and do not allow any thought of possible harm +to get a foothold in your mind. If there is a hill near, from which you +can see any distance, climb that and get an outlook. You may be able to +see the smoke of your camp-fire, which, after all, cannot be so far +away. You may find a landmark that you do remember. If you see nothing +which you can recognize, make a signal flag of your handkerchief and put +it up high, as high as you can. Your friends will be looking for that. +Then give the lost signal, one long blast with your whistle, and after a +short pause follow with two more blasts in quick succession. If you have +no whistle shout, loud and long, then wait a while, keeping eyes and +ears open to see and hear answering signals. If there is none, again +shout the lost signal and continue the calls every little while for +quite a time. Another call for help is the ascending smoke of three +fires. This, of course, is for daylight. Build your fires some distance +apart, twenty-five feet or more, that the smoke from each may be clearly +seen alone, not mingled with the rest. Aim to create _smoke_ rather than +flame; a slender column of smoke can be seen a long distance, therefore +the fire need not be large. Choose for your fires as clear a space and +as high an elevation as can be found, and in the relief and excitement +of rescue _do not forget to extinguish every spark_ before leaving the +ground. + +If you decide to keep moving, blaze your trail as you go, so that it may +be followed and also that you may know if you cross it again yourself. +You can blaze the trail by breaking or bending small branches on trees +and bushes, or by small strips torn from your handkerchief and tied +conspicuously on twigs. If you are where there are no trees or +undergrowth, build small piles of stones or little hills of earth at +intervals to mark your trail. + +If night overtakes you, look for the _North Star_. That will help if you +know at what point of the compass your camp lies, and if you remember +whether your course in leaving camp was to the north, south, east, or +west, you can calculate pretty accurately whether the camp is to the +north, south, east, or west of you. + +In case the night must be spent where you are, go about making a +shelter, prepare as comfortable a bed as possible, and do _not_ be +afraid. You will probably be found before morning, and you must be found +in good physical condition. + +If you can kindle a fire, do it; that will help to guide your friends +and will ward off wild creatures that might startle you. Keep your fire +going all night and take care that it does not spread. + +It is better to remain quietly in one spot all night than to wander +about in the dark and perhaps stumble upon dangerous places. If, when +you find the points of the compass by the _North Star_, you mark them +plainly on a stone or fallen log, they will be a ready guide for you as +soon as daylight breaks. + +The last word on this subject is: _Do not be afraid_. + + +=To Find Your Way by the North Star= + +At night you will have the same reliable guide that has ever been the +mariner's friend, and if you do not know this star guide, lose no time +in finding it. + +Polaris or pole-star is known generally as North Star, and this star is +most important to the outdoor girl. At all times the North Star marks +the north, its position never changes, and seeing that star and _knowing +it_, you will always know the points of the compass. Face the North +Star and you face the north. At your right hand is the east, at your +left hand is the west, and at your back is the south. + +The North Star does not look very important because it is not very +bright or very large, and were it not for the help of the Big Dipper, +which every one knows, the North Star would not be easy to find. The +diagram given on page 37 shows the relative position of the stars and +will help you to find the North Star. The two stars forming the front +side of the bowl of the Great Dipper point almost in a direct line to +the North Star, which is the last one in the handle of the Little +Dipper, or the tail of the Little Bear, which means the same thing. + + + + +CHAPTER III + +CAMPING + +=Camp Sites. Water. Wood. Tents. Shelters. Lean-Tos. Fires. Cooking. +Safety and Protection. Sanitation. Camp Spirit.= + + +=Information= + +Whether your camp is to be for one day, one week, or a longer period of +time, the first question to be decided is: "Where shall we go?" If you +know of no suitable spot, inquire of friends, and even if they have not +personally enjoyed the delights of camping and sleeping in the open, one +or more of them will probably know of some acquaintance who will be glad +to give the information. Write to the various newspapers, magazines, +railroads, and outdoor societies for suggestions. The Geological Survey +of the United States at Washington, D. C., will furnish maps giving +location and extent of forests and water-ways, also location and +character of roads; you can obtain the maps for almost any part of every +State. Most public automobile houses supply maps of any desired region. +Send letters of inquiry to these sources of information, and in this way +you will probably learn of many "just the right place" localities. +Select a number of desirable addresses, investigate them, and make your +own choice of location, remembering that the first three essentials for +a camp are good ground, water, and wood; the rest is easy, for these +three form the foundation for camping. + + +=Location= + +Wherever you go, choose a dry spot, preferably in an open space near +wooded land. Avoid hollows where the water will run into your shelters +in wet weather; let your camp be so located that in case of rain the +water will drain down away from it. Remember this or you may find your +camp afloat upon a temporary lake or swamp should a storm arise. + + +=Water= + +Pure drinking water you _must_ have, it is of _vital_ importance, so be +sure to pitch your camp within near walking distance of a good spring, a +securely covered well, or other supply of pure water. + +Henry David Thoreau's method of obtaining clear water from a pond whose +surface was covered with leaves, etc., was to push his pail, without +tipping it in the least, straight down under the water until the top +edge was below the surface several inches, then quickly lift it out; in +doing this the overflow would carry off all leaves and twigs, leaving +the remaining water in the pail clear and good. But you must first be +sure that the pond contains pure water under the floating débris. + +Always be cautious about drinking water from rivers, streams, ponds, and +lakes though they may appear ever so clear and tempting, for the purity +is by no means assured, and to drink from these sources may cause +serious illness. Unless you are absolutely sure that water is free from +impurities, _boil it_; then it will be safe to use for drinking and +cooking. + +Next in importance to good water is good fire-wood and woodsy material +for shelters and beds. Bear this in mind when deciding upon the site for +your camp. + + +=Companions= + +Because your companions can make or mar the happiness in camp, it is +safer to have in your party only those girls who will take kindly to the +camp spirit of friendly helpfulness, those always ready to laugh and +treat discomforts as jokes. This means that though fun-loving and full +of buoyancy and life, each girl will willingly do her part and assume +her share of responsibilities. + + +=Safeguarding= + +You should also count among your companions two or more camp +directors--possibly mothers of the girls, teachers, or older friends of +whom the parents approve--who will enter heartily into all phases of +outdoor life and while really being one with you in sport and work, will +at the same time keep careful oversight and assure protection. + +Avoid localities where there is a possibility of tramps or undesirable +characters of any description, and do not wander from camp alone or +unaccompanied by one of the directors. If your camp is in the forest it +will be the part of wisdom to secure also a reliable guide who knows the +forest ways. + + +=The Start= + +The day before you leave for your camping-ground, have everything in +readiness that there may be no delay when it is time to go. Be prompt, +for you want to play fair and not keep the other girls waiting, causing +them to lose valuable time. + +The stimulating exhilaration which comes with trailing through the +forests to camp, the keen delight of adventure, the charm of the +wilderness, the freedom and wonder of living in the woods, all make for +the health and happiness of the girl camper, and once experienced, ever +after with the advent of spring comes the call of the untrammelled life +in the big outdoors. + + +=The One-Day Camp= + +Even a one-day camp fills the hours with more genuine lasting enjoyment +than girls can find in other ways; there is a charm about it which +clings in your memory, making a joy, later, of the mere thought and +telling of the event. + +That every moment of the day may be filled full of enjoyment for all, +have a good programme, some definite, well-thought-out plan of +activities and sports previously prepared, and if possible let every +girl know beforehand just what she is to do when all arrive at camp. + +With an older person in charge, the party could be divided, according to +its size, into different groups, and as soon as the grounds are reached +the groups should begin the fun of preparing for the camp dinner. + +If the party consists of eight, two can gather fire-wood, two build the +fireplace, two unpack the outfits, placing the provisions and cooking +utensils in order conveniently near the fire, and two can bring the +drinking water and cooking water. + +Provisions and cooking utensils should be divided into as many packs as +there are campers, and every camper carry a pack. Count in the outfit +for each one a tin cup, preferably with open handle for wearing over +belt. + +In the one-day camp very few cooking utensils are needed; they may +consist of two tin pails, one for drinking water, the other for boiling +water, one coffee-pot for cocoa, one frying-pan for flapjacks or eggs, +one large kitchen knife for general use, and one large spoon for +stirring batter and cocoa. + + +=Camp Dinner= + +Counting on a keen outdoor appetite for wholesome substantials, the +provision list includes only plain fare, such as: Lamb chops, or thinly +sliced bacon packed in oil-paper. Dry cocoa to which sugar has been +added, carried in can or stout paper bag. One can of condensed milk, +unsweetened, to be diluted with water according to directions on can. +Butter in baking-powder can. Dry flour mixed with salt and baking-powder +in required proportions for flapjacks, packed in strong paper bag and +carried in one of the tin pails. Bread in loaf wrapped in wax-paper. +Potatoes washed and dried ready to cook, packed in paper bag or carried +in second tin pail. Pepper and salt each sealed in separate marked +envelopes; when needed, perforate paper with big pin and use envelopes +as shakers. One egg for batter, buried in the flour to prevent breaking, +and one small can of creamy maple sugar, soft enough to spread on hot +cakes, or a can of ordinary maple syrup. + + +=The Clean-Up= + +While resting after dinner is the time for story-telling; then, before +taking part in sports of any kind, every particle of débris, even small +bits of egg-shell and paper, should be gathered up and burned until not +a vestige remains. To be "good sports," thought must be taken for the +next comers and the camping-ground left in perfect order, absolutely +free from litter or débris of any kind. + +When breaking camp be _sure_ to soak the fire with water again and +again. It is criminal to leave any coals or even a spark of the fire +smouldering. + +Be _positive_ that the _fire is out_. + +[Illustration: A permanent camp.] + + +=Shelters and Tents. Lean-To= + +For a fixed camp of longer or shorter duration your home will be under +the shelter of boughs, logs, or canvas. The home of green boughs is +considered by many the ideal of camp shelters. This you can make for +yourself. It is a simple little two-sided, slanting roof and back and +open-front shed, made of the material of the woods and generally known +as a lean-to, sometimes as Baker tent when of canvas. + +There are three ways of erecting the front framework. + +The first is to find two trees standing about seven feet apart with +convenient branches down low enough to support the horizontal top cross +pole when laid in the crotches. Lacking the proper trees, the second +method is to get two strong, straight, forked poles of green wood and +drive them down into the ground deep enough to make them stand firm and +upright by themselves the required distance apart. The third way is to +reinforce the uprights by shorter forked stakes driven firmly into the +ground and braced against the uprights, but this is not often necessary. + +Having your uprights in place, extending above ground five feet or more, +lay a top pole across, fitting its ends into the forked tops of the +uprights. Against this top pole rest five or six slender poles at +regular distances apart, one end of each against the top pole and the +other end on the ground slanting outward and backward sufficiently to +give a good slope and allow sleeping space beneath. At right angles to +the slanting poles, lay across them other poles, using the natural pegs +or stumps left on the slanting poles by lopped-off branches, as braces +to hold the cross poles in place (Fig. 18). + +[Illustration: 18 + +21 19 + +20 + +Outdoor shelters.] + +When building the frame be sure to place the slanting poles so that +the little stumps left on them will turn _up_ and not down, that they +may hold the cross poles. Try to have spaces between cross poles as +regular as possible. A log may be rolled up against the ground ends of +the slanting poles to prevent their slipping, though this is rarely +necessary, for they stand firm as a rule. + +You can cover the frame with bark and then thatch it, which will render +the shelter better able to withstand a storm, or you may omit the bark, +using only the thatch as a covering. Put on very thick, this should make +the lean-to rain-proof. + +With small tips of branches from trees, preferably balsam, hemlock, or +other evergreens, begin thatching your shelter. Commence at the bottom +of the lean-to, and hook on the thatch branches close together all the +way across the lowest cross pole, using the stumps of these thatch +branches as hooks to hold the thatch in place on the cross pole (Fig. +19). Overlap the lower thatches as you work along the next higher cross +pole, like shingles on a house, and continue in this way, overlapping +each succeeding cross pole with an upper row of thatch until the top is +reached. Fill in the sides thick with branches, boughs, or even small, +thick trees. + +The lean-to frame can be covered with your poncho in case of necessity, +but boughs are much better. + + +=Permanent Camp. Lean-To. Open Camp= + +Another kind of lean-to intended for a permanent camp is in general use +throughout the Adirondacks. It is built of substantial good-sized logs +put together log-cabin fashion, with open front, slanting roof, and low +back (Fig. 20). This shelter has usually a board floor raised a few +inches above the ground and covered thick, at least a foot deep, with +balsam. Overspread with blankets, the soft floor forms a comfortable +bed. A log across the front of the floor keeps the balsam in place and +forms a seat for the campers in the evenings when gathered for a social +time before the fire. The roof of the log lean-to can be either of +boards or well-thatched poles which have first been overlaid with bark. + +[Illustration: 23 24 + +22 + +Dining-tent, handy racks, and log bedstead.] + +One of the most comfortable and delightful of real forest camps which I +have ever been in, was a permanent camp in the Adirondacks owned and run +by one of the best of Adirondack guides. The camp consisted of several +shelters and two big permanent fireplaces. + +Over the ground space for the large tent outlined with logs was a strong +substantial rustic frame, built of material at hand in the forest and +intended to last many seasons (Fig. 21). The shelter boasted of two +springy, woodsy beds, made of slender logs laid crosswise and raised +some inches from the ground. These slender logs slanted down slightly +from head to foot of the bed, and the edges of the bed were built high +enough to hold the deep thick filling of balsam tips, so generously deep +as to do away with all consciousness of the underlying slender-log +foundation (Fig. 22). Each bed was wide enough for two girls and the +shelter ample to accommodate comfortably four campers. There could have +been one more bed, when the tent would have sheltered six girls. + +In the late fall, the guide removed the water-proof tent covering and +kept it in a safe, dry place until needed, leaving the beds and bare +tent frame standing. + +There was a smaller tent and also a lean-to in this camp. + +[Illustration: A forest camp by the water.] + +The dining-table, contrived of logs and boards, was sheltered by a +square of canvas on a rustic frame (Fig. 23). The camp dishes of white +enamel ware were kept in a wooden box, nailed to a close-by tree; in +this box the guide had put shelves, resting them on wooden cleats. The +cupboard had a door that shut tight and fastened securely to keep out +the little wild creatures of the woods. Pots, kettles, frying-pan, etc., +hung on the stubs of a slender tree where branches and top had been +lopped off (Fig. 24). The sealed foods were stowed away in a box +cupboard, and canned goods were cached in a cave-like spot under a huge +rock, with opening secured by stones. + +The walls of the substantial fireplace, fully two feet high, were of big +stones, the centre filled in part-way with earth, and the cook-fire was +made on top of the earth, so there was not the slightest danger of the +fire spreading. + +The soft, warm, cheerful-colored camp blankets when not in use were +stored carefully under cover of a water-proof tent-like storehouse, with +the canvas sides dropped from the ridge-pole, both sides and flaps +securely fastened and the entire storehouse made proof against +intrusion. + +This camp was located near a lake in the mountain forest and its charm +was indescribably delightful. + + +=Tents= + +Tents in almost endless variety of shapes and sizes are manufactured and +sold by camp-outfitters and sporting-goods shops. The tents range from +small canoe-tents, accommodating one person only, to the large +wall-tents for four or more people. When using tents, difficulties of +transportation and extra weight can be overcome by having tent poles and +pegs cut in the forest. + +If you purchase tents, full instructions for erection go with them. +Write for illustrated catalogues to various outfitters and look the +books over carefully before buying. Your choice will depend upon your +party, length of stay, and location of camp. + +You may be able to secure a discarded army-tent that has never been +used, is in good condition, and has been condemned merely for some +unimportant blemish. Such tents are very serviceable and can be +purchased at Government auctions, or from dealers who themselves have +bought them from the Government. + +[Illustration: In camp.] + +A large square seven by seven feet, or more, of balloon silk, +water-proof cloth, or even heavy unbleached sheeting, will be found most +useful in camp. Sew strong tape strings at the four corners and at +intervals along the sides for tying to shelters, etc. The water-proof +cloth will serve as a drop-curtain in front of the lean-to during a hard +storm, or as carpet cloth over ground of shelter, also as an extra +shelter, either lean-to or tent style; any of the three materials can do +duty as windbreak, fly to shelter, or dining canopy, and may be used in +other ways. + + +=Camp-Beds= + +To derive joy and strength from your outing it is of serious importance +that you sleep well every night while at camp, and your camp-bed must be +comfortable to insure a good night's rest. + +A bough-bed is one of the joys of the forest when it is _well made_, and +to put it together properly will require about half an hour's time, but +the delight of sleeping on a soft balsam bed perfumed with the pungent +odors of the balsam will well repay for the time expended. + + +[Illustration: 25 26 + +The bough-bed, the cook-fire, and the wall-tent.] + + +=Bough-Bed= + +Tips of balsam broken off with your fingers about fourteen inches long +make the best of beds, but hemlock, spruce, and other evergreens can be +used; if they are not obtainable, the fan-like branches from other trees +may take their place. Of these you will need a large quantity, in +order to have the bed springy and soft. Always place the outdoor bed +with the head well under cover and foot toward the opening of shelter, +or if without shelter, toward the fire. Make the bed by arranging the +branches shingle-like in _very_ thick overlapping rows, convex side up, +directly on the ground with _thick end_ of stems _toward_ the _foot_. +Push these ends into the ground so that the tips will be raised +slantingly up from the earth; make the rows which will come under the +hips extra thick and springy. Continue placing the layers in this manner +until the space for single or double bed, as the case may be, is covered +with the first layer of your green mattress. Over it make another layer +of branches, reversing the ends of these tips from those underneath by +pushing the _thick ends_ of branches of this top layer slantingly into +the under layer _toward_ the _head_ of the bed with tips toward the +foot. Make more layers, until the bed is about two feet thick (Fig. 25); +then cover the mattress thus made with your poncho, rubber side down, +and on top spread one of the sleeping blankets, using the other one as a +cover. Be sure to allow plenty of time for this work and have the bed +dry and soft. + + +=Bag-Bed= + +When the camp is located where there is no material for a bough-bed, +each girl can carry with her a bag three feet wide and six and one-half +feet long, made of strong cloth, ticking, soft khaki, or like material, +to be filled with leaves, grass, or other browse found on or near the +camp-grounds. Such a mattress made up with poncho and blankets is very +satisfactory, but it must be well filled, so that when you lie on the +mattress it will not mash flat and hard. + + +=Cot-Bed= + +For an entire summer camp army cots which fold for packing are good and +very comfortable with a doubled, thick quilt placed on top for a +mattress. + +The sporting-goods stores show a great variety of other beds, cots, and +sleeping-bags, and a line to them will bring illustrated catalogues, or, +if in the city, you can call and see the goods. + +Any of the beds I have described, however, can be used to advantage, and +I heartily endorse the _well-made_ bough-bed, especially if of balsam. + + +=Pillows= + +Make a bag one-half yard square of brown linen or cotton cloth, and when +you reach camp, gather the best browse you can find for filling, but be +careful about having the pillow too full; keep it soft and comfortable. +If there is no browse, use clean underwear in its place. Fasten the open +end of the bag together with large-sized patent dress snappers. + +One of the pleasantest phases of a season's camping are the little side +trips for overnight. You hit the trail that leads to the chosen spot +located some two or three, perhaps six or seven, miles distant; a place +absolutely dry, where you can enjoy the fun of sleeping on the ground +without shelter, having merely the starry sky for a canopy. Each girl +can select the spot where she is to sleep and free it from all twigs, +stones, etc., as the smallest and most insignificant of these will rob +her of sleep and make the night most uncomfortable. When the space is +smooth mark the spot where the shoulders rest when lying down and +another spot immediately under the hips, then dig a hollow for each to +fit in easily; cover the sleeping space with poncho, rubber side down, +and over this lay a folded blanket for a mattress, using the second +blanket as a cover. Your sleep will then probably be sound and +refreshing. + + +=Guards= + +Establish watchers, for this temporary camp, in relays to keep guard +through the night and care for the fire, not allowing it to spread, grow +too hot, or die down and go out. + +If there are eight in the party, the first two, starting in at 10 P. M., +will keep vigil until 12 midnight. These may chance to see a porcupine +or other small wild animal, but the little creatures will not come too +near as long as your camp-fire is burning. The next two watchers will be +on duty until 2 A. M., and will doubtless hear, if not see, some of the +wild life of the forest. The third couple's turn lasts until 4 A. M.; +then the last two will be awakened in time to see the sun rise, listen +to the twittering and singing of the wild birds, and possibly catch a +glimpse of wild deer. With 6 A. M. comes broad daylight, and the +ever-to-be-remembered night in the open is past and gone. + +These side trips bring you into closer touch with nature, quicken your +love for, and a desire to know more of, the wild; and, much to the +delight of the campers keeping guard through the hours of the night, +there comes a keen sense of the unusual, of novel experience, of +strangeness and adventure. + +[Illustration: Soft wood.] + + +=Exercise= + +While wholesome camping calls for sufficient physical exercise to cause +a girl to be blissfully tired at night, and yet awaken refreshed and +full of energy the next morning with a good appetite for breakfast, +until you become accustomed to the outdoor life, it is best to curb your +ambition to outdo the other girls in strength and endurance. It is best +not to overtax yourself by travelling too far on a long trail at one +stretch, or by lifting too heavy a log, stone, or other weight. + + +=The Camp-Fire= + +The outdoor fire in camp bespeaks cheer, comfort, and possibilities for +a hot dinner, all of which the camper appreciates. + + +=How to Build a Fire= + +Choose an open space, if possible, for your fire. Beware of having it +under tree branches, too near a tent, or in any other place that might +prove dangerous. Start your fire with the tinder nearest at hand, dry +leaves, ferns, twigs, cones, birch bark, or pine-knot slivers. As the +tinder begins to burn, add kindling-wood of larger size, always +remembering that the air must circulate under and upward through the +kindling; no fire can live without air any more than you can live +without breathing. Smother a person and he will die, smother a fire and +it will die. + +[Illustration: Hard wood.] + +Soft woods are best to use after lighting the tinder; they ignite easily +and burn quickly, such as pine, spruce, alder, birch, soft maple, +balsam-fir, and others. When the kindling is blazing put on still +heavier wood, until you have a good, steady fire. Hard wood is better +than soft when the fire is well going; it burns longer and can usually +be depended upon for a reliable fire, not sending out sparks or +sputtering, as do many of the soft woods, but burning well and giving a +fine bed of hot coals. The tree belonging exclusively to America, and +which is the best of the hardwoods, comes first on the hardwood list. +This is _hickory_. Pecan, chestnut-oak, black birch, basket-oaks, white +birch, maple, dogwood, beech, red and yellow birch, ash, and apple wood +when obtainable are excellent. + + +=Cook-Fire= + +Make the cook-fire _small_ and _hot_; then you can work over it in +comfort and not scorch both hands and face when trying to get near +enough to cook, as would be the case if the fire were large. + +When in a hurry use dry bark as wood for the cook-fire. Hemlock, pine, +hickory, and other bark make a hot fire in a short time, and water will +boil quickly over a bark fire. + + +=Log-Cabin Fire= + +Start this fire with two good-sized short sticks or logs. Place them +about one foot apart parallel to each other. At each end across these +lay two smaller sticks, and in the hollow square formed by the four +sticks, put the tinder of cones, birch bark, or dry leaves. + +Across the two upper sticks and over the tinder, make a grate by laying +slender kindling sticks across from and resting on top of the two upper +large sticks. Over the grate, at right angles to the sticks forming it, +place more sticks of larger size. Continue in this way, building the +log-cabin fire until the structure is one foot or so high, each layer +being placed at right angles to the one beneath it. The fire must be +lighted from beneath in the pile of tinder. I learned this method when +on the Pacific slope. The fire burns quickly, and the log-cabin plan is +a good one to follow when heating the bean hole, as the fire can be +built over the hole, and in burning the red-hot coals will fall down +into it, or the fire can be built directly in the hole; both ways are +used by campers. + + +=Fire in the Rain= + +To build a fire in the rain with no dry wood in sight seems a difficult +problem, but keep cheerful, hum your favorite tune, and look for a +pine-knot or birch bark and an old dead stump or log. In the centre of +the dead wood you will find dry wood; dig it out and, after starting the +fire with either birch bark or pine-knot, use the dry wood as kindling. +When it begins to burn, add larger pieces of wood, and soon the fire +will grow strong enough to burn wet wood. If there happens to be a big +rock in your camp, build your fire on the sheltered side and directly +against the stone, which will act as a windbreak and keep the driving +rain from extinguishing the fire. A slightly shelving bank would also +form a shelter for it. A pine-knot is always a good friend to the girl +camper, both in dry and wet weather, but is especially friendly when it +rains and everything is dripping wet. + +You will find pine-knots in wooded sections where pine-trees grow; or, +if you are located near water where there are no trees, look for +pine-knots in driftwood washed ashore. When secured cut thin slices down +part way all around the elongated knot and circle it with many layers of +shavings until the knot somewhat resembles a toy tree. The inside will +be absolutely dry, and this branching knot will prove reliable and start +your fire without fail. Birch bark will start a fire even when the bark +is damp, and it is one of the best things you can have as a starter for +an outdoor, rainy-day fire. + +Take your cue from the forest guides, and while in the woods always +carry some dry birch bark in your pocket for a fire in case of rain. + + +=Camp Fireplace= + +One way to make the outdoor fireplace is to lay two _green_ logs side by +side on the ground in a narrow V shape, but open at both ends; only a +few inches at one end, a foot or more at the other. The fire is built +between the logs, and the frying-pan and pail of water, resting on both +logs, bridge across the fire. Should the widest space between the logs +be needed, place two slender green logs at right angles across the V +logs, and have these short top cross logs near enough together to hold +the frying-pans set on them (Fig. 26). + +When there are no green logs, build the fireplace with three rectangular +sides of stone, open front, and make the fire in the centre; the pots +and pans rest across the fire on the stones. + +If neither stones nor logs are available, dig a circle of fresh earth as +a safeguard and have the fire in its centre. Here you will need two +strong, forked-top stakes driven down into the ground directly opposite +each other, one on each side of the circle. Rest the end of a stout +green stick in the forked tops of the stakes, and use it to hang pots +and pails from when cooking. A fire can also be safeguarded with a +circle of stones placed close together. Another method of outdoor +cooking may be seen on page 81, where leaning stakes are used from which +to hang cooking utensils over the fire. + +One more caution about possibilities of causing forest fire. Terrible +wide-spread fires have resulted from what was supposed to be an +extinguished outdoor fire. Do not trust it, but when you are sure the +camp-fire is out, pour on more water over the fire and all around the +unburned edge of surrounding ground; then throw on fresh earth until the +fire space is covered. Be always on the safe side. Tack up on a tree +in the camp, where all must see it, a copy of the state laws regarding +forest fires, as shown in photograph frontispiece. + +[Illustration: Bringing wood for the fire.] + +On forest lands much of the ground is deep with tangled rootlets and +fibres mixed in with the mould, and a fire may be smouldering down +underneath, where you cannot see it. _Have a care._ + +The permanent-camp fireplace, built to do service for several seasons, +is usually of big, heavy, _green_ logs, stones, and earth. The logs, +about three and one-half feet long, are built log-cabin fashion, some +twenty-eight inches high, with all crevices filled in and firmly padded +with earth and stones. Big stones are anchored securely along the top of +the earth-covered log sides and back of the fireplace, raising these +higher than the front. The space inside the walled fireplace is very +nearly filled up with earth, and the fire is built on this earth. +Surfaces of logs which may have been left exposed where the fire is to +be made are safeguarded with earth (Fig. 27). + +Such a fireplace is big, substantial, firm, and lasting. Many of them +may be seen in the Adirondacks. They usually face the camp shelter, but +are located at a safe distance, fully two yards, from it. Fires built in +these are generally used as social cheer-fires, but you can have the +cheer-fire even though the substantial fireplace be _non est_, if in the +evening you pile more wood on the cook-fire, making it large enough for +all to gather around and have a good time, telling stories, laughing, +talking, and singing. + +An excellent rule in camp is to have always on hand _plenty_ of +_fire-wood_. Replenish the reserve stock every day as inroads are made +upon it, and have some sort of shelter or covering where the wood will +be kept dry and ready for immediate use. + + +=Camp Cooking. Provisions= + +In the woods one is generally hungry except immediately after a good +meal, and provisions and cooking are of vital interest to the camper. +The list of essentials is not very long and, when the camp is a +permanent one, non-essentials may be added to the larder with advantage. + +Bread of some kind will form part of every meal, and a few loaves +freshly baked can be taken to camp to start with while you are getting +settled. + +The quickest bread to cook is the delectable flapjack, and it is quite +exciting to toss it in the air, see it turn over and catch it again--if +you can. + + +=Flapjacks= + +Mix dry flour, baking-powder, and salt together, 1 good teaspoonful of +Royal baking-powder to every 2 cups of flour, and 1 level teaspoonful of +salt to 1 quart (4 cups) of flour. To make the batter, beat 1 egg and +add 1-1/2 cups of milk, or 1 cup of milk and 1/2 cup of water; +unsweetened condensed milk diluted according to directions on can may be +used. Carefully and gradually stir in enough of the flour you have +prepared to make a creamy batter, be sure it is smooth and without +lumps; then stir in 1 heaping teaspoonful of sugar, better still +molasses, to make the cakes brown. Grease the frying-pan with a piece of +fat pork or bacon, have the pan hot, and, with a large spoon or a cup, +ladle out the batter into the pan, forming three small cakes to be +turned by a knife, or one large cake to be turned by tossing. Use the +knife to lift the edges of the cakes as they cook, and when you see them +a golden brown, turn quickly. Or, if the cake is large, loosen it; then +lift the pan and quickly toss the cake up into the air in such a way +that it will turn over and land safely, brown side up, on the pan. +Unless you are skilled in tossing flapjacks, don't risk wasting the cake +by having it fall on the ground or in the fire, but confine your efforts +to the small, knife-turned cakes. Serve them "piping hot," and if there +are no plates, each camper can deftly and quickly roll her flapjack into +cylinder form of many layers and daintily and comfortably eat it while +holding the roll between forefinger and thumb. + +Keep the frying-pan well greased while cooking the cakes, rubbing the +pan with grease each time before pouring in fresh batter. + +Flapjacks are good with butter, delicious with creamy maple-sugar soft +enough to spread smoothly over the butter. The sugar comes in cans. +Ordinary maple-syrup can be used, but is apt to drip over the edges if +the cake is held in the hand. + +Well-cooked cold rice mixed with the batter will give a delicate +griddle-cake and make a change from the regular flapjack. + + +=Biscuits= + +Biscuits are more easily made than raised bread and so are used largely +in its place while in camp. The proportions of flour and baking-powder +are the same as for flapjacks. To 4 cups of flour mix 2 teaspoonfuls of +Royal baking-powder and 1 level teaspoonful of salt; add shortening +about the size of an egg, either lard or drippings. Divide the +shortening into small bits and, using the tips of your fingers, rub it +well into the dry flour just prepared; then gradually stir in cold water +to make a soft dough, barely stiff enough to be rolled out 3/4 inch +thick on bread-board, clean flat stone, or large, smooth piece of +flattened bark. Whichever is used must be well floured, as must also +the rolling-pin and biscuit cutter. A clean glass bottle or smooth round +stick may be used as rolling-pin, and the cutter can be a baking-powder +can, or the biscuits may be cut square, or 4 inches long and 2 inches +wide with a knife. The dough may also be shaped into a loaf 3/4 inch +thick and baked in a pan by planting the pan in a bed of hot coals, +covering it with another pan or some substitute, and placing a deep +layer of hot coals all over the cover. The biscuits should bake in about +fifteen minutes. For a hurry meal each camper can take a strip of dough, +wind it spirally around a peeled thick stick, which has first been +heated, and cook her own spiral biscuit by holding it over the fire and +constantly turning the stick. Biscuits, in common with everything cooked +over a hot wood-fire, need constant watching that they may not burn. +Test them with a clean splinter of wood; thrust it into the biscuit and +if no dough clings to the wood the biscuits are done. + + +=Johnny-Cake= + +Served hot, split open and buttered, these Kentucky johnny-cakes with a +cup of good coffee make a fine, hearty breakfast, very satisfying and +good. + +Allow 1/2 cup of corn-meal for each person, and to every 4 cups of meal +add 1 teaspoonful of salt, mix well; then pour water, which is _boiling +hard_, gradually into the meal, stirring constantly to avoid having any +lumps. When the consistency is like soft mush, have ready a frying-pan +almost full of _hot_ drippings or lard, dip your hands into cold water +to enable you to handle the hot dough, and, taking up enough corn-meal +dough to make a _large_-sized biscuit, pat it in your hands into a +3/4-inch-thick cake and gently drop it into the hot fat; immediately +make another cake, drop it into the fat, and continue until the +frying-pan is full. As soon as one johnny-cake browns on the lower side +turn it over, remove each cake from the fat as soon as done, and serve +as they cook. + +Corn-meal must be thoroughly scalded with boiling water when making any +kind of corn bread in order to have the bread soft and not dry and +"chaffy." + +For baked corn bread add 2 full teaspoons of baking-powder and stir in 2 +eggs, after 4 cups of meal and 1 teaspoonful of salt have been +thoroughly scalded and allowed to cool a little. Pour this corn-meal +dough into a pan which has been generously greased, and bake. + +Corn-meal needs a hot oven and takes longer to bake than wheat-flour +biscuits. + + +=Corn-Meal Mush= + +Corn-meal mush does not absolutely require fresh cream or milk when +served. It is good eaten with butter and very nourishing. Many like it +with maple-syrup or common molasses. + +Time is required to make well-cooked mush; at least one hour will be +necessary. To 2 quarts of boiling, bubbling water add 1 teaspoonful of +salt, and very slowly, little by little, add 2 cups of corn-meal, +stirring constantly and not allowing the water to cease boiling. Do not +stop stirring until the mush has cooked about ten minutes. It may then +be placed higher up from the fire, where it will not scorch, and +_boiling_ water added from time to time as needed to keep the mush of +right consistency. The cold mush may be made into a tempting dish, if +sliced 1/2-inch thick and fried brown in pork fat. Many cold cooked +cereals can be treated in the same way; sprinkled with flour these will +brown better. + + +=Kentucky Bread= + +Kentucky bread is made of flour, salt, and water. It is generally known +as beaten biscuit. Mix 2 scant teaspoonfuls of salt with 1 quart of +flour, add enough cold water to make a _stiff_, smooth dough and knead, +pull, and pound the dough until it blisters; the longer it is worked and +beaten the better. Roll out very thin, cut round or into squares and +bake. These biscuits may be quickly made, are simple and wholesome. + + +=Cocoa= + +Good cocoa may be made by substituting cold milk and cold water for hot. +Follow directions on the can as to proportion, and add the cold liquids +after the cocoa is mixed to a smooth paste; then boil. Either +unsweetened condensed milk or milk powder can take the place of fresh +milk. + + +=Coffee= + +For every camper allow 1 tablespoonful of ground coffee, then 1 extra +spoonful for the pot. Put the dry coffee into the coffee-pot, and to +settle it add a crumbled egg-shell; then pour in a little cold water and +stir all together; when there are no egg-shells use merely cold water. +Add 1 cupful of cold water for each camper, and 2 for the pot, set the +coffee-pot over the fire and let it boil for a few moments, take it from +the fire and pour into the spout a little cold water, then place the +coffee where it will keep hot--not cook, but settle. + + +=Tea= + +Allow 1 scant teaspoonful of tea for each person, scald the teapot, +measure the tea into the pot, and pour in as many cups of _boiling_ +water as there are spoonfuls of tea, adding an extra cupful for the pot. +_Never_ let _tea boil_. + + +=Boiled Potatoes= + +Wash potatoes, cut out any blemish, and put them on to cook in cold +water over the fire. They are much better boiled while wearing their +jackets. Allow from one-half to three-quarters of an hour for boiling, +test them with a sliver of wood that will pierce through the centre when +the potato is done. When cooked pour off the boiling water, set off the +fire to one side where they will keep hot, and raise one edge of the lid +to allow the steam to escape. Serve while _very_ hot. + + +=Baked Potatoes= + +Wrap each potato in wet leaves and place them all on hot ashes that lie +over hot coals, put more hot ashes on top of the potatoes, and over the +ashes place a deep bed of red-hot coals. It will require about forty +minutes or more for potatoes to bake. Take one out when you think they +should be done; if soft enough to yield to the pressure when squeezed +between thumb and finger, the potato is cooked. Choose potatoes as near +of a size as possible; then all will be baked to a turn at the same +time. + + +=Bean Soup and Baked Beans= + +Look over one quart of dried beans, take out all bits of foreign matter +and injured beans; then wash the beans in several waters and put them to +soak overnight in fresh water. Next morning scald 1-1/2 pounds salt +pork, scrape it well, rinse, and with 1 teaspoonful of dried onion or +half of a fresh one, put on to boil with the beans in cold water. Cook +slowly for several hours. When the water boils low, add more boiling +water and boil until the beans are soft. + +To make soup, dip out a heaping cupful of the boiled beans, mash them to +a paste, then pour the liquid from the boiled beans over the paste and +stir until well mixed; if too thin add more beans; if too thick add hot +water until of the right consistency, place the soup over the fire to +reheat, and serve very hot. To bake beans, remove the pork from the +drained, partially cooked beans, score it across the top and replace it +in the pot in midst of and extending a trifle above the surface of the +beans, add 1 cup of hot water and securely cover the top of the pot with +a lid or some substitute. Sink the pot well into the glowing coals and +shovel hot coals over all. Add more hot water from time to time if +necessary. + +Beans cooked in a bean hole rival those baked in other ways. Dig the +hole about 1-1/2 feet deep and wide, build a fire in it, and keep it +burning briskly for hours; the oven hole must be _hot_. When the beans +are ready, rake the fire out of the hole; then sink the pot down into +the hole and cover well with hot coals and ashes, placing them all over +the sides and top of the pot. Over these shovel a thick layer of earth, +protecting the top with grass sod or thick blanket of leaves and bark, +that rain may not penetrate to the oven. Let the beans bake all night. + + +=Bacon= + +Sliced bacon freshly cut is best; do not bring it to camp in jars or +cans, but cut it as needed. Each girl may have the fun of cooking her +own bacon. + +Cut long, slender sticks with pronged ends, sharpen the prongs and they +will hold the bacon; or use sticks with split ends and wedge in the +bacon between the two sides of the split, then toast it over the fire. +Other small pieces of meat can be cooked in the same way. Bacon boiled +with greens gives the vegetable a fine flavor, as it also does +string-beans when cooked with them. It may, however, be boiled alone for +dinner, and is good fried for breakfast. + + +=Game Birds= + +Game birds can be baked in the embers. Have ready a bed of red-hot coals +covered with a thin layer of ashes, and after drawing the bird, dip it +in water to wet the feathers; then place it on the ash-covered red +coals, cover the bird with more ashes, and heap on quantities of red +coals. If the bird is small it should be baked in about one-half hour. +When done strip off the skin, carrying feathers with it, and the bird +will be clean and appetizing. Birds can also be roasted in the bean-pot +hole, but in this way, they must first be picked, drawn, and rinsed +clean; then cut into good-sized pieces and placed in the pot with fat +pork, size of an egg, for seasoning; after pouring in enough water to +cover the meat, fasten the pot lid on securely and bury the pot in the +glowing hot hole under a heap of red-hot coals. Cover with earth, the +same as when baking beans. + + +=Fish= + +Fish cooked in the embers is very good, and you need not first remove +scales or fins, but clean the fish, season it with salt and pepper, wrap +it in fresh, wet, green leaves or wet blank paper, not printed paper, +and bury in the coals the same as a bird. When done the skin, scales, +and fins can all be pulled off together, leaving the delicious hot fish +ready to serve. + +To boil a fish: First scale and clean it; then cut off head and tail. +If you have a piece of new cheesecloth to wrap the fish in, it can be +stuffed with dressing made of dry crumbs of bread or biscuits well +seasoned with butter, or bits of pork, pepper, and a very small piece of +onion. The cloth covering must be wrapped around and tied with white +string. When the fish is ready, put it into boiling water to which has +been added 1 tablespoonful of vinegar and a little salt. The vinegar +tends to keep the meat firm, and the dressing makes the fish more of a +dinner dish; both, however, can be omitted. Allow about twenty minutes +for boiling a three-pound fish. + +The sooner a fish is cooked after being caught the better. To scale a +fish, lay it on a flat stone or log, hold it by the head and with a +knife scrape off the scales. Scale each side and, with a quick stroke, +cut off the head and lower fins. The back fin must have incisions on +each side in order to remove it. Trout are merely scraped and cleaned by +drawing out the inside with head and gills. Do this by forcing your hand +in and grasping tight hold of the gullet. + +To clean most fish it is necessary to slit open the under side, take out +the inside, wash the fish, and wipe it dry with a clean cloth. + +If the camping party is fond of fish, and fish frequently forms part of +a meal, have a special clean cloth to use exclusively for drying the +fish. + + + _Provisions for One Person for Two Weeks. To be + Multiplied by Number of Campers, and Length of + Time if Stay is over Two Weeks_ + + +=Essential Foods= + +Outdoor life seems to require certain kinds of foods; these we call +essentials; others in addition to them are in the nature of luxuries or +non-essentials. + + +=List= + + _Essentials_ + + Wheat flour 6 lbs. + Corn-meal 2-1/2 lbs. + Baking-powder 1/2 lb. + Coffee 1/2 lb. + Tea 1/8 lb. + Cocoa 1/2 lb. + Pork 1 lb. + Bacon 2-1/2 lbs. + Salt 1/2 lb. + Pepper 1 oz. + Sugar 3 lbs. + Butter 1-1/2 lbs. + Milk, dried 1/2 lb. + Lard 3/4 lb. + Egg powder 1/4 lb. + Fruit, dried 1 lb. + Potatoes, dried 1-1/2 lbs. + Beans 1-1/2 lbs. + Maple-syrup 1 pt. + Vinegar 1/4 pt. + + +=List= + +_Non-Essentials_ + + Rice 2-1/2 lbs. + Lemons 1/2 doz. + Erbswurst 1/4 lb. + Soup tablets 1/4 lb. + Baker's chocolate (slightly sweetened) 1/2 lb. + Maple-sugar 1/2 lb. + Ham 5 lbs. + Nuts 2 lbs. + Marmalade 1/2 jar + Preserves 1 can + Citric acid 1/8 lb. + Onions, dried 1 oz. + Cheese 1 lb. + Potatoes, fresh 14 + Codfish 1 lb. + Vegetables, dried 1/2 lb. + + +=Sanitation= + +_Keep your camp scrupulously clean._ Do not litter up the place, your +health and happiness greatly depend upon observing the laws of hygiene. +Make sure after each meal that all kitchen refuse is collected and +deposited in the big garbage hole, previously dug for that purpose, and +well covered with a layer of fresh earth. + +[Illustration: 27 + +ANOTHER WAY OF HANGING THE CRANE OUT OF DOORS + +28 29 + +Camp fires and camp sanitation.] + +_Impress upon your mind that fresh earth is a disinfectant and keeps +down all odors._ + +Erect a framework with partially open side entrance for a retiring-room. +Use six strong forked-topped poles planted in an irregular square as +uprights (Fig. 28), and across these lay slender poles, fitting the ends +well into the forked tops of the uprights (Fig. 28). Half-way down from +the top, place more cross poles, resting them on the crotches left on +the uprights. Have these last cross poles as nearly the same distance +from the ground as possible and over them hang thick branches, hooking +the branches on by the stubs on their heavy ends. Also hang thickly +foliaged branches on the top cross poles, using the stubs where smaller +branches have been lopped off as hooks, as on the lower row (Fig. 29); +then peg down the bottom ends of the hanging branches to the ground with +sharpened two-pronged crotches cut from branches. The upper row of +branches should overlap the under row one foot or more. Make the seat by +driving three stout stakes firmly into the ground; two at the back, one +in front, and on these nail three crosspieces. + +Never throw dish water or any refuse near your tent or on the camp +grounds. + +_Burn_ or _bury_ all trash, remembering that earth and fire are your +good servants, and with their assistance you can have perfect camp +cleanliness, which will go a long way toward keeping away a variety of +troublesome flies and make camp attractive and wholesome. + + +=Camp Spirit= + +Thoughtfulness for others; kindliness; the willingness to do your share +of the work, and more, too; the habit of making light of all +discomforts; cheerfulness under all circumstances; and the determination +never to sulk, imagine you are slighted, or find fault with people, +conditions, or things. To radiate good-will, take things as they come +and _enjoy them_, and to do your full share of entertainment and +fun-making--this is the true camp spirit. + + + + +CHAPTER IV + +WHAT TO WEAR ON THE TRAIL + +=Camp Outfits. Clothing. Personal Outfits. Camp Packs. Duffel-Bags and +What to Put in Them= + + +To prepare your own camping outfit for the coming summer, to plan, to +work out your lists, to select materials, and make many of the things +just as you want them or even to hunt up the articles and purchase them, +while all the time delightful visions of trailing and camp life dance +before you, is to know the true joy of anticipation, and is great fun. + + +=Clothing= + +Make your dress for the trail absolutely comfortable, not too heavy, too +tight, too hot, or too cool. No part of the clothing should bind or +draw. + +Brown or dark gray are the best colors for the forest; avoid wearing +those which frighten the timid wild life, for you want to make friends +with the birds and animals, so do not wear metal buttons, buckles, or +anything that shines or sparkles. + + +=Underwear= + +For girl campers the light-weight, pure-woollen underwear is best, +especially if you locate in the mountains, or the Canadian or Maine +forests. On cold days two light-weight union garments are warmer than +one of heavy weight. Wool is never clammy and cold, it absorbs +perspiration and when on the trail prevents the chilly feeling often +experienced when halting for a rest in the forest. + +Union garments may be obtained in a variety of weights, and a one-piece +suit is the only garment necessary to wear under bloomers and middy when +at camp. + +Leave corsets at home, they have no place in the outdoor life, and you +will be freer if you discard the dress skirt when at camp and on the +trail. Have your muscles free, be able to take in long, deep breaths, to +move readily all portions of your body, and not be hampered in any way +by ill-fitting, uncomfortable clothing. There must be unrestricted +freedom of arms and limbs for a girl to be able to use them easily in +climbing mountains or hills, scrambling over fallen trees, sliding over +rocks, jumping from stone to stone, or from root to half-sunken log on +wet trails of the forest. + + +=Stockings= + +Select your stockings with care. Let them be of wool, strong, soft, and +absolutely satisfactory when the shoe is on. The aim of the entire camp +dress is to have it so comfortable and well adapted to outdoor life that +you will forget it; think no more of it than a bird does of its +feathers. When woollen stockings are worn, wet feet are not apt to give +one cold, for the feet do not become chilled even when it is necessary +to stand in the reedy edge of a mountain lake or stream. If, however, +you cannot wear wool, use cotton stockings. Remember that wool often +shrinks in the wash. Allow for this when purchasing goods, though it is +said, on reliable authority, that if laundered with care the garments +will not shrink. + +When washing woollen underwear use very soapy, cool water (not icy) with +addition of a little borax, or ammonia, if you have either, and do not +rub soap directly on wool; it mats the little fibres and this causes +the wool to shrink. For the same reason avoid rubbing the garments if +possible during the cleansing process. All that is usually necessary is +to squeeze and souse them well, then rinse in water of the same +temperature; do not wring the things; squeeze them and hang them up to +dry. Changes of temperature in the water when washing wool will cause +the wool to shrink. To alternate between cold and warm, hot and lukewarm +water will surely cause the clothing to grow much smaller and stiffer; +keep both wash and rinse water either cold or lukewarm; cold is safer. + +Allow no one to persuade you to take old clothes to camp; they will soon +need mending and prove a torment. + + +=Shoes= + +Wear low-heeled, high-laced shoes of stout leather and easy fit. Make +them water-proof by giving the leather a good coat of hot, melted mutton +tallow, completely covering the shoes and working the tallow into all +crevices. Be sure to do this, as it is worse than useless to depend upon +rubber overshoes when trailing; sharp stones cut, and roots, twigs, and +underbrush tear the rubber, with the result that the overshoes soon fill +with water and your feet swim in little lakes. Test your shoes well +before taking them to camp, be perfectly satisfied that they are +comfortable and well-fitting, wear them steadily for one week or more. +It is very unwise to risk new shoes on the trail, and it is of the +utmost importance that the feet be kept in good condition. Be kind to +your feet. + + +=Camping Dress= + +The most serviceable and practical dress for camping is a three-piece +suit, made of a fadeless, soft quality of gray or brown material. + +[Illustration: DUFFEL-BAGS + +LEGGIN + +PONCHO + +TRAILER'S BOOT + +Trailers' outfits.] + +The middy-blouse while loose can be well-fitting, with long sleeves +roomy enough to allow of pushing up above the elbow when desired. Sew +two small patch pockets high on the left breast--one for your watch, the +other for your compass; protect the pockets with flaps which fasten down +over the open top with dress snaps. On the right breast sew one +good-sized pocket. + +In addition to these you will need one large pocket on both right and +left side of middy, below belt line, making in all three large and two +small pockets. The belt is held in place by sliding it through loops +sewed on the middy, one at the back and one on each side. + +Make the skirt of this suit short enough for ease and of generous width, +not to draw at front, but give perfect freedom of the limbs. Have a seam +pocket in each side of the front breadth, and fasten the skirt down one +side from belt to hem. It can then be quickly removed and used as a cape +or a wind break when occasion requires. The bloomers, well-fitting and +comfortable, gathered below the knee with best quality of elastic, that +it may last, can have a deep pocket sewed across the front of each leg, +several inches conveniently below waist-line. + + +=Hat= + +A soft, light-weight felt hat with brim sufficiently wide to shade the +eyes will prove the best head covering for the trail. Don't use hatpins; +your hat will cling to the head if you substitute a strip of woollen +cloth in place of the inside leather band. The clinging wool prevents +the hat from being readily knocked off by overhanging branches or blown +off on windy days. + + +=Check List of Apparel= + +Go light when off for the woods, take with you only those things which +seem to be absolutely necessary; remember that you will carry your own +pack and be your own laundress, so hesitate about including too many +washable garments. Make out your list, then consider the matter +carefully and realize that every one of the articles, even the very +smallest, has a way of growing heavier and heavier and adding to the +ever-increasing weight of your pack the longer you walk, so be wise, +read over your list and cut it down, decide that you _can_ do without a +number of things thought at first to be indispensable. + +In addition to your camp dress described, the following list forms a +basis to work upon, to be added to, taken from, or substitution made +according to location, climate, and nature of the country where you will +pitch camp: + + One extra suit of wool underwear. Wash suit as + soon as changed. + + One extra pair of stockings. Every morning put on + a fresh pair, washing the discarded ones the same + day. + + One high-necked, long-sleeved, soft, woven + undershirt for cold days. + + One extra thin middy-blouse for hot days. + + Three pocket handkerchiefs, each laundered as soon + as discarded. + + One kimono, soft, warm wool, buttoned down front, + not eider-down (it is too bulky), color brown or + dark gray. + + One bathing-suit without skirt, made in one-piece, + loose, belted waist with bloomers; suit opened on + shoulders with strong button and buttonhole + fastenings. + + One warm sweater with high turned-over collar and + sleeves good and long. On the trail carry your + sweater by tying the sleeves around your waist, + allowing the sweater to hang down at the back. + + One pair of gloves, strong, pliable, easy-fitting + chamois, if you feel that you need them. The bare, + free hands are better. + + One pair of strong, snug, well-fitting leggins + matching camp dress in color, with no buttons or + buckles to tangle on underbrush. The fastening can + be covered by smooth outer flap. + + One pair of felt slippers or thick-soled moccasins + for tent. + + Four extra strips of elastic for renewing those in + knees of bloomers. + + One large, strong, soft silk or cotton + neckerchief, for protecting neck from sun, rain, + and cold, also good to fold diagonally and use for + arm sling or tie over hat in a hard wind; silk is + best. + + Two head-nets if your stay is long, one if short, + to be worn in case of swarms of pestiferous flies + and mosquitoes. Especially needed for protection + from the midge, black-fly, etc., found in northern + forests and elsewhere during the spring and + through to the middle or last of July. Your net + can be of fine mesh bobbinet; if you have only + white, dye it black; all other colors are apt to + dazzle the eyes. The best material to use is black + Brussels net. Cut a strip of net long enough to + fit easily around your shoulders and allow of some + fulness. Take the measurement smoothly around the + shoulders with a piece of tape and add to this + about three-eighths of the entire length you have + just measured, which will give you the length + required. The width should be sufficient to allow + of the net reaching from base of hat crown across + over brim and down over top of shoulders, about + twenty-two inches or more in all. Cut the net + according to size needed; then fold the strip at + centre across the width, fold again, making four + even folds. Once more fold and you will have + divided the net into eight equal parts. Mark the + net at each fold and open it out (Fig. 30). Cut + armholes in the divisions marked 2 (Fig. 30) to + fit over the shoulders, sew together the two ends, + bind the shoulder armholes holding the net loosely + that it may not pull and strain. Sew an elastic to + back corner of each armhole, hem the top of net + strip and run an elastic through hem to fit snugly + on base of hat crown. Gather lower edges of net; + then try the net on, adjusting lower and upper + gathers so that the veil will blouse a little, + remembering not to let the net touch your face; if + it should, the little tormentors will bite through + and torture you. Sew a piece of black tape across + lower edge of the front and another across lower + edge of the back, fitting the tape to lie smoothly + over chest and back; then bring forward the + hanging pieces of elastic, adjust them comfortably + under the arms, and mark length of elastic to + reach around under arm and fasten with dress snaps + at front corner of armhole. Cut elastic and finish + net (Fig. 31). + + _Ornaments_--Never take rings, bracelets, + necklaces, or jewelry of any kind to camp; leave + all such things at home, and with them ribbons, + beads, and ornaments of all descriptions. + +[Illustration: 30 + +31 + +The head-net and blanket-roll.] + + +=Check List of Toilet Articles= + + One comb, not silver-backed. + + One hand-mirror to hang or stand up. + + One tooth-brush in case. + + One tube of tooth-paste, or its equivalent. + + One nail-brush. + + One cake of unscented toilet-soap. + + Two cakes of laundry-soap. + + One package of borax or securely corked bottle of + ammonia. + + One tube of cold-cream. + + One baking-powder can of pure, freshly "tried out" + mutton tallow, made so by boiling in pure water + until melted, then allowed to cool and harden. + When taken from the water, again melted and, while + hot, strained through a clean cloth into the can. + Good to remove pitch and balsam-gum from the + hands, to use as cold-cream to soften the hands, + and excellent to water-proof the shoes. + + One wash-cloth, washed, aired, and sunned every + day. In rainy weather, washed and dried. + + Two hand towels, each washed as soon as soiled. + + One bath towel, washed as soon as used. + + One manicure-scissors. + + One package sandpaper nail-files. + + Two papers of hair-pins. + + One paper of common pins, also little flat pocket + pincushion well filled around edge with pins. + + Two papers of large-sized safety-pins. + + +=Check List of Personal Camp Property= + + One note-book and pencil for taking notes on wild + birds, animals, trees, etc. + + One needle-case, compact with needles and strong + white and black thread, wound on cardboard reels + (spools are too bulky). Scissors, thimble, and + large-eyed tape-needle for running elastic through + hem in bloomers and head-net, when needed. + + Two papers of very large sized safety-pins of + horse-blanket kind. + + One roll of tape, most useful in many ways. + + One whistle, the loudest and shrillest to be + found, worn on cord around the neck, for calling + help when lost or in case of need. A short, simple + system of signalling calls should be adopted. + + One compass, durable and absolutely true. + + One watch, inexpensive but trustworthy. Do not + take your gold watch. + + One package of common post-cards, with lead pencil + attached. The postals to take the place of + letters. + + One package writing-paper and stamped envelopes, + if post-cards do not meet the needs. + + One pocket-knife, a big, strong one, with + substantial, sharp, strong blades, for outdoor + work and to use at meals. + + One loaded camera, in case which has secure + leather loops through which your belt can be + slipped to carry camera and hold it steady, + leaving the hands free and precluding danger of + smashing the instrument should a misstep on mossy + stone or a trip over unseen vine or root suddenly + throw you down and send the camera sailing on a + distance ahead. Such an accident befell a girl + camper who was too sure that her precious camera + would be safest if carried in her hand. Wear the + camera well back that you may not fall on it + should you stumble, or the camera can be carried + on strap slung from the right shoulder. + + Three or more rolls of extra films, the quantity + depending upon your length of stay at camp and the + possibilities for interesting subjects. + + One fishing-rod and fishing-tackle outfit. Choose + the simple and useful rather than the fancy and + expensive. Select your outfit according to the + particular kind of fishing you will find near + camp. There is a certain different style of rod + and tackle for almost every variety of fish. If + fishing is not to be a prominent feature of the + camp, you might take line and hooks, and wait + until you reach camp to cut your fishing-pole. + + One tin cup, with open handle to slide over belt. + The cup will serve you with cool sparkling water, + with cocoa, coffee, or tea as the case may be, and + it will also be your soup bowl. Keep the inside of + the cup bright and shiny. While aluminum is much + lighter than other metal, it is not advisable to + take to camp either cup, teaspoon, or fork of + aluminum because it is such a good conductor of + heat that those articles would be very apt to burn + your lips if used with hot foods. + + One dinner knife, if you object to using your + pocket-knife. + + One dinner fork, not silver. + + One teaspoon, not silver. + + One plate, may be of aluminum or tin, can be kept + bright by scouring with soap and earth. + + Two warm wool double blankets, closely woven and + of good size. The U.S. Army blankets are of the + best. With safety-pins blankets can be turned into + sleeping-bags and hammocks. + + One poncho, light in weight to wear over + shoulders, spread on ground rubber side down to + protect from dampness, can be used in various + ways. + + One pillow-bag. + + One mattress-bag. + + One water-proof match-safe. + + One belt hatchet in case, or belt sheath small + axe, for chopping wood and felling small trees, + but, be very careful when using either of these + tools. Before going to camp find some one who can + give you proper instructions in handling one or + both, and practise carefully following directions. + Be very _cautious_ and go slow until you become an + expert. Outdoor books and magazines should be + consulted for information, and if you do not feel + absolutely confident of your ability to use the + hatchet or axe after practising, _do not take them + with you_. For the sake of others as well as + yourself, you have not the right to take chances + of injuring either others or yourself through + inability to use safely any tool. Do not attempt + to use a regular-sized axe, it is very dangerous. + One guide told me that after a tenderfoot chopped + a cruel gash nearly through his foot when using + the guide's axe, that axe was never again loaned, + but kept in a safe place and not allowed to be + touched by any one except the owner. + + +=Check List for First Aid= + + One hot-water bag, good for all pains and aches, + and a comfort when one is chilly. + + One package pure ginger pulverized or ground, to + make hot ginger tea in case of chill, pains in the + bowels, or when you have met with an accidental + ducking or are wet through to the skin by rain. + Never mind if the tea does burn, ginger always + stings when helping one. Be a good sport, take + your medicine. + + One box of charcoal tablets for dyspepsia or + indigestion. + + One package bicarbonate of soda (baking-soda); + good for burns, sprinkle well with soda, see that + the burn is completely covered, then cover lightly + with cloth, and do not disturb it for a long time. + + One bottle of ammonia well corked. Tie the cork + down firmly in the bottle (Fig. 32); a flannel + case or raffia covering will protect the glass + from breakage. Good to smell in case of faintness, + but care must be taken _not_ to hold it _too near_ + the _nose_, as the ammonia might injure the + delicate membranes, as would also smelling-salts. + Safer to move the bottle or cloth wet with ammonia + slowly back and forth near the nose. Good also for + insect bites. + + One roll of adhesive plaster. Cut into lengths for + holding covered ointment or poultice in place, the + strips criss-cross over the poultice, but are not + attached, the ends only are pressed on the bare + skin to which they firmly adhere. + + Two rolls of 2-1/2 or 3 inch wide surgeon bandages + (not gauze) for general use where bandages are + needed. + + One small package of absorbent cotton. + + Two mustard plasters, purchased at drug store; + good for stomachache. + + One package of powdered licorice to use as a + laxative. Dissolve a little licorice in water and + drink it. To keep the bowels open means to ward + off a host of evils. It is even more essential + that the inside of the body be kept clean than it + is to have the outside clean. To this end make a + practise of drinking a great deal of pure water; + drink it before breakfast, between meals (not at + meals), and before retiring. If you do this, you + will probably not need other laxative, especially + if you eat fruit either fresh or stewed. Fruit + should form part of every day's fare. _Keep your + bowels open._ + + One tube of Carron oil, to use for burns or + scalds. + + One small bottle of camphor, for headaches. + + One small bag of salt--good dissolved in water, 1 + teaspoonful to 1 pint of water, for bathing tired + or inflamed eyes, often effects a cure. Good for + bathing affected spots of ivy poison, good for + sore-throat gargle, also for nosebleed; snuff, + then plug nose. Good for brushing teeth. For all + these dissolve salt in water in proportion as + given above. + + One white muslin 24-inch triangular bandage, for + arm sling or chest, jaw, and head bandage. A man's + large-sized white handkerchief can be used; never + bind broken skin with colored cloth. + + One bottle of fly dope, warranted to keep off + pestiferous flies and mosquitoes. All these may be + kept in one-half of a linen case of pockets, your + toilet articles in the other half, and the case + can be opened out and hung to the side of your + tent or shelter. + + +=Check List for General Camp= + + Two basins, of light metal, paper or collapsible + rubber. The last is easy to pack and light to + carry. One basin will serve for several girls. If + you camp near a body of fresh water let that be + your basin; it will always be ready filled. No + need then to bring water to your shelter, for a + delightful dip in the river or lake every morning + before breakfast will obviate all necessity, and + do away with the otherwise needful hand-basin. + + One reliable map of location and surrounding + country for constant reference. + + One water-pail, light weight, for every two or + three girls. Can be canvas, aluminum, paper, + rubber, or your own selection in other materials. + + Six toilet-paper packages or more. + + One or more tents of water-proof material. + + One or more sod cloths for tent flooring. + + One or more inner tents of cheesecloth for + protection from mosquitoes, etc. These can be made + at home or purchased with the tents at the regular + camp-outfitters'. There is on the market a spray, + claimed to be absolutely effective against + mosquitoes, etc., and to keep both tent and camp + free from pests. One quart is said to last two + weeks with daily use. Cost, fifty cents per quart. + + One carborundum stone for sharpening all cutting + tools. + + One or more lanterns. Folding candle lanterns may + be purchased, but the simple ten-cent kind with + lamp-chimney for protection of candle are good. + They can be had at country stores in Cresco, Pa. + May possibly be found at camp-outfitters'. If a + glass chimney is to be used, pack most carefully. + Fill the inside of the chimney with stockings, + handkerchiefs, etc.; then wrap the chimney all + over with other soft clothing and tie securely. + Have this outside wrap very thick. + + One package of one-half length candles to use in + lantern. + + One _tin_ box of one or two dozen safety-matches. + _Tin_ will not catch fire from the matches. + + One strong tool-bag with separate labelled pockets + for different tools; each pocket with flap to + fasten securely with dress snaps. In this tool-bag + put assorted nails, mostly big, strong ones, + screws, awl, well-sealed bottle of strong glue, + ball of stout twine, a few rawhide thongs, three + or four yards of soft strong rope, a pair of + scissors, two spools of wire, and several yards of + cheesecloth. + + One rope--long for mountain-climbing. + + +=Check List of Kitchen Utensils= + + Two dish-pans, one for piping-hot sudsy water for + washing dishes, the other for scalding-hot rinsing + water. The last pan can also be used for mixing + and bread-making. Select pans strong and of light + weight--canvas, aluminum, or tin--and be sure they + nest or fold. + + Two water-pails, fitted one within the other, both + light weight. + + One coffee-pot, size to fit in pails, must not be + too high. Cocoa can be made in the coffee-pot. + + One frying-pan, for corn-dodgers, flapjacks, fried + mush, eggs, etc. + + One folding camp-oven, for hot biscuits, bread + puddings, and many other good things relished by + hungry campers. + + One wash-basin, to be kept strictly for washing + hands, when cooking. + + One large spoon, for stirring and general use. + + One kitchen-knife, suitable for cutting bread, + carving meat, turning pancakes, etc. + + One kitchen-fork, strong and big, but not a + toasting-fork. + + One Dutch oven pot, a strong seamless pot with + cover, to use for baking, boiling, and stewing. + + Three dish-towels, washed after every meal. + + One dish mop or cloth, washed and dried after each + meal; dry in sun when possible. + + Four large cakes of soap. + + One thick holder, for lifting pots. Hang this up + in a certain place where it may always be found + when needed. + + One pepper and one salt shaker, small and light in + weight. + + One net air-bag, for meat, fish, and anything that + must be kept fresh (Fig. 33) and protected from + the flies. Use strong net and two or more hoops + for the air-bag. With pincers you can twist the + two ends of strong wire together and make the + hoops of size large enough to hold the net out + away from a large piece of meat. Cut the net long + enough to stand above and hang below the meat. + Gather the top edge tightly together and sew it + fast; then sew the hoop near the top of the bag. + Other hoops on either side of centre of bag and a + hoop near bottom of bag, or sew only one hoop at + the top and one at the bottom. Have strong + draw-strings in the bottom of the bag, and fasten + a pendent hook at the top to hold the meat hanging + free inside of the bag. With copper wire attach a + good-sized ring on top of the bag, wire it through + the handle of the pendent hook and weld them + together. When in use, the bag should be suspended + high from the ground by means of a rope pulley run + through the top ring and over the limb of a + near-by tree. Similar air-bags can be obtained, if + desired, from camp-outfitters. + +When selecting cooking utensils for the camp, you will find those with +detachable handles pack better and for that reason are desirable. + +Do not forget that every check-list given may be reduced; don't think +you must include all the items. For these lists give outfits for +permanent as well as temporary camps. If you can manage with _one towel_ +by washing it every day, or evening, allowing it to dry during the +night, one towel will be sufficient; leave the others at home. Drop +from the various lists every article you can possibly dispense with and +still be comfortable in camp. + +If you wear the camp suit travelling from home to camp, its weight and +bulk will be omitted from your camp pack, and be so much to your gain, +and you will maintain a good appearance notwithstanding, for if well +made and of proper fit the dress will be a suitable travelling costume. + + +=Camp Packs= + +When you intend carrying your belongings and striking the trail either +part or all the way to camp, the easiest method for portage is to stow +the things in a regular pack and fasten the pack on your back by means +of strong, long straps attached to the pack, and passed over your +shoulders and under your arms. + +A square of water-proof canvas makes a simple and good camp pack. Get a +nine-by-nine-feet (more or less) square of cloth, and it will be found +useful as shelter, fly, ground-cloth, windbreak, and in other ways after +reaching camp. + + +=What to Put in Your Pack= + +Open out your pack-cloth flat on the floor, and place your folded +mattress-bag in the centre. + +Fill the pillow-bag with your first-aid case and case of toilet +articles, and if there is space for other things pack them in. Lay the +pillow-bag on top of the mattress-bag, place clothing by the side and on +top of the pillow-bag, being careful to keep the contents of your pack +rectangular in shape and of size to fit well over your back. + +[Illustration: 32 + +CAMP PACK + +BLANKET PACK + +33 + +PACK-HARNESS + +MEAT SAFE + +Some things to carry and how to carry them.] + +If not adding too much to the weight, include many things from your +personal-belonging list; of these articles you can carry some in the +pockets of your camp suit. Everything being in the pack, fold over the +sides and ends, making a neat, compact bundle; tie it securely with a +piece of soft rope and across its top place the blankets with poncho +inside, which you have previously made into a roll to fit. Bind pack and +blankets together, attach the pack shoulder-strap and swing the pack on +your back. + +Pack straps or harness can be obtained at any camp-outfitter's. + +A different style of pack may be a bag with square corners, all seams +strongly stitched, then bound with strong tape. Cut two pieces of the +water-proof cloth, one about sixteen inches wide, and the other eighteen +inches; this last is for the front and allows more space. Let each piece +be twenty-one inches long or longer, unite them with a strip of the +cloth six inches wide and sufficiently long to allow of flaps extending +free at the top to fold over from both sides across the opening; you +will then have a box-like bag. Make one large flap of width to fit the +top of the back, and length to cross over on front, covering the smaller +flaps and fastening down on the outside of the front of the pack. All +three flaps may have pockets to hold small articles. + +The shoulder-straps may be either of strong government webbing which +comes for the purpose, tube lamp-wick, or leather. + +With this pack the blanket and poncho could be made into a thin roll and +fitted around the edges of the pack, or made into a short roll and +attached to top of pack. + +When feasible it is a good plan to pack your smaller belongings in +wall-pockets with divisions protected by flaps securely fastened over +the open ends, the wall-pockets rolled, tied, and carried in the camp +pack. These pockets are useful at camp; they help to keep your things +where you can find them. Next best is to use small separate labelled +bags for different variety of duffel, and pack them in one or two duffel +tube-shaped bags, which may be bound together, constituting one pack. + +From eighteen to twenty-four pounds is average weight for a girl to +carry; it all depends upon strength and endurance; some girls can carry +even heavier packs, while others must have lighter ones. Beware about +loading yourself down too heavily. Packs grow heavier and heavier, never +lighter on the trail. + + +=Blanket-Roll Pack= + +Side-trips from camp for only one night's bivouac will not need a back +pack; the few articles required can be carried in your blanket-roll. +Spread the poncho out flat, rubber side down, then your blankets on top, +and group the things you intend to take into two separate oblong groups, +one on each side of the central space at one end of the blankets; push +the articles in each division closely together, leaving the space +between the divisions empty. Kneel in front of your blankets and begin +to roll all together tightly, taking care not to allow any of the duffel +to fall out. When the roll is complete, tie the centre with strong, soft +string, and also each end, and make a hoop of the roll by tying together +the hanging strings on the two ends. Wear the blanket-roll over left +shoulder, diagonally across back and chest to rest over right hip. If +you have forgotten a few items, tie the things to the bottom of the +blanket-roll and let them hang like tassels. + + +=Duffel-Bag= + +Articles for general use while at camp can be packed together in one or +more duffel-bags; if but one bag is needed, provisions might go in the +same receptacle when space and weight permit. It is much better, +however, to have a separate bag for provisions. + + +=Packing Provisions= + +You can make or buy separate tube bags of different heights, but all of +the same diameter, and pack flour in one, corn-meal in another, and so +on, having each bag labelled and all, when filled, fitted in one +duffel-bag; you will find these bags a great comfort. They should be of +water-proof canvas with draw-string at the top. You can purchase +friction-top cans for butter, etc., of varying depth to accommodate +different quantities which will fit well in the large provision bag. + +A duffel-bag is usually made cylindrical in form with a disk of the +cloth sewed in tight at one end, and the other end closed with +draw-strings. It is well to have another cloth disk attached to one spot +at the top of the bag, to cover the contents before the draw-strings are +fastened. + +A great variety of desirable camp packs, including duffel-bags, +pack-straps, harness, and tump-lines, may be purchased at the +camp-outfitter's; investigate before deciding upon home-made camp packs. +Pack-baskets can also be obtained, but all the good-sized pack-baskets I +have seen, while attractive in appearance, are too rigid, bulky, +sharp-edged, and heavy to be of use to girl campers. + +Having decided that the wilderness is the place to locate, unless you +can manage to camp with very little in the way of extra packs, you will +be obliged to employ a guide to assist in the carry, possibly two +guides, as wilderness trails do not permit of a vehicle, or even a mule +or horse, being used to help in the portage. + +Should your camp be on a more accessible site, the easy portage can be +taken advantage of and the problem readily solved; but the charm of the +real forest camp with all its possibilities for genuine life in the +wilderness more, far more, than compensates for the extra difficulties +in reaching camp. Really, though, the very difficulties are but part of +the sport; they give zest and add to the fun of the trail. + + + + +CHAPTER V + +OUTDOOR HANDICRAFT + +=Camp Furnishings--Dressing-Table, Seats, Dining-Table, Cupboard, Broom, +Chair, Racks, Birch-Bark Dishes, etc.= + + +Camp is the place where girls enjoy most proving their powers of +resourcefulness. + +It is fun to supply a want with the mere natural raw materials found in +the open, and when you succeed in making a useful article of outdoor +things, the entire camp takes a pride in your work and the simple but +practical and usable production gives a hundred per cent more pleasure +than could a store article manufactured for the same purpose. + +Be comfortable at camp. While it is good to live simply in the open, it +is also good to be comfortable in the open, and with experience you will +be surprised to find what a delightful life can be lived at camp with +but few belongings and the simplest of camp furnishings. These last can, +in a great measure, be made of tree branches and the various stuffs +found in the woods. + +[Illustration: Handicraft in the woods. + +Details of the outdoor dressing-table. Comb-racks of forked sticks and +of split sticks.] + + +=Dressing-Table= + +A near-by tree will furnish the substantial foundation for your +dressing-table and wash-stand combined. If you can find a side-piece of +a wooden box, use it for the shelf and fasten this shelf on the trunk of +a tree about two and one-half feet or more above the ground. Cut two +rustic braces and nail the front of the shelf on the top ends of these +supports; then nail a strip of wood across the tree as a cleat on which +to rest the back of the shelf; fit the shelf on the cleat and nail the +lower ends of the braces to the tree; strengthen the work still more by +driving a strong, long nail on each side of the top centre of the back +of shelf, diagonally down through the shelf, cleat, and into the tree. + +It is not essential that the straight shelf edge fit perfectly to the +rounded tree, but if you desire to have it so, mark a semicircle on the +wood of size to fit the tree and whittle it out. + +Should there be no piece of box for your shelf, make the shelf of +strong, slender sticks lashed securely close together on two side +sticks. For cleats and braces use similar sticks described for board +shelf. + +When the shelf is made in this way, cover the top with birch bark or +other bark to give a flat surface. + +Hang your mirror on a nail in the tree at convenient distance above the +shelf, and your tooth-brush on another nail. The towel may hang over the +extending end of the cleat, and you can make a small bark dish for the +soap. Your comb can rest on two forked-stick supports tacked on the +tree, or two split-end sticks. + + +=Camp-Seats= + +Stones, logs, stumps, raised outstanding roots of trees, and boxes, when +obtainable, must be your outdoor chairs, stools, and seats until others +can be made. + +[Illustration: Outdoor dressing-table, camp-cupboard, hammock-frame, +seat, and pot-hook.] + +Two trees standing near together may be used to advantage as uprights +for a camp seat. Cut a small horizontal kerf or notch at the same height +on opposite sides of both trees, get two strong poles (green wood), fit +them in the wedges and nail them to the trees; then lash them firmly in +place. Be absolutely certain that these poles are of strong wood, +firmly attached to the trees and not liable to slide or break. + +Make the seat by lashing sticks across from pole to pole, placing them +close together. Two more long poles, fastened to the trees at a proper +distance above the seat, would give a straight back, if a back is +desired, but it is not essential; with a folded blanket spread over it, +the seat alone is a luxury. + + +=Camp-Table= + +A table can be built in much the same way as the seat and will answer +the purpose well if one of boards is not to be had. For the table make +your crosspieces about twenty-two inches long, nail them ladder-like but +close together on two poles, and make this table top flat on the surface +by covering it with birch bark tacked on smoothly. Having previously +fastened two other poles across from tree to tree, as you did when +making the seat, you can lift the table top and lay it on the two +foundation poles; then bind it in place and the table will be finished. +Another way of using the table top is to drive four strong, stout, +forked sticks into the ground for the four table legs and place the +table top across, resting the long side poles in the crotches of the +stakes, where they may be lashed in place. + +Benches for the table can be made in like manner, only have the +forked-stick legs shorter, raising the seat about eighteen inches above +the ground. + +[Illustration: Camp-chair, biscuit-stick, and blanket camp-bed.] + + +=Camp-Cupboard= + +A cupboard made of a wooden box by inserting shelves, held up by means +of cleats, will be found very convenient when nailed to a tree near the +cook-fire. Hang a door on the cupboard which will close tight and +fasten securely. Have this in mind when making out your check list, and +add hinges, with screws to fit, to your camp tools. + + +=Camp-Broom= + +With a slender pole as a handle, hickory shoots, or twisted fibre of +inner bark of slippery-elm, for twine, and a thick bunch of the top +branchlets of balsam, spruce, hemlock, or pine for the brush part, you +can make a broom by binding the heavy ends of the branches tight to an +encircling groove cut on the handle some three inches from the end. Cut +the bottom of the brush even and straight. + + +=Camp-Chair= + +If you have a good-size length of canvas or other strong cloth, make a +camp-chair. For the back use two strong, forked stakes standing upright, +and use two long poles with branching stubs at equal distance from the +bottom, for the sides and front legs of the chair; in the crotches of +these stubs the bottom stick on which the canvas strip is fastened will +rest. + +Each side pole must be fitted into one of the forked high-back stakes, +and then the top stick on the canvas strip must be placed in the same +crotches, but in front of and resting against the side poles, thus +locking the side poles firmly in place. + +To fasten the canvas on the two sticks, cut one stick to fit across the +chair-back and the other to fit across the lower front stubs. Fold one +end of the canvas strip over one stick and nail the canvas on it, so +arranging the cloth that the row of nails will come on the under side of +the stick. Turn in the edge first that the nails may go through the +double thickness of cloth. Adjust this canvas-covered stick to the top +of the chair, allowing the cloth to form a loose hanging seat; measure +the length needed for back and seat, cut it off and nail the loose end +of the canvas strip to the other stick; then fit one stick in the top of +the upright back stakes and the other stick in the bottom stubs. + + +=Camp Clothes-Press= + +If you are in a tent tie a hanging pole from the tent ridge-pole, and +use it as a clothes-press. + + +=Blanket Bed= + +Two short logs will be required for your blanket bed, the thicker the +better, one for the head and one for the foot, also two long, strong, +green-wood poles, one for each side of the bed; your blanket will be the +mattress. + +Fold the blanket, making the seam, formed by bringing the two ends +together, run on the under-side along the centre of the doubled blanket, +not on the edge. Lap and fasten the blanket ends together with large +horse-blanket safety-pins, and with the same kind of pins make a case on +each side of the blanket fold; then run one of the poles through each +case. Chop a notch near each end of the two short logs; in these notches +place the ends of the poles and nail them securely. Have the short logs +thick enough to raise the bed up a few inches from the ground, and make +the notches sufficiently far apart to stretch the mattress out smooth, +not have it sag. A strip of canvas or khaki may be used in place of the +blanket if preferred. + + +=Camp Hammock= + +By lashing short crosspieces to the head and foot of the side poles the +blanket mattress can be a hammock and swing between two trees, having +been attached to them with rope or straps of slippery-elm, beech, or +black birch. + + +=Birch-Bark Dishes= + +It will be easy for girls to make their birch-bark dinner plates, +vegetable dishes, baskets, dippers, etc. Soften the thick bark by +soaking it in water; when it is pliable cut one plate the size you wish, +lay it on a flat stone or other hard substance and scrape off the +outside bark around the edges, allowing the outer bark to remain on the +bottom of the plate to give greater strength; use this plate as a guide +in cutting each of the others. + +With your fingers shape the edges of the plates in an upward turn while +the bark is wet, using the smoothest side for the inside of the plate. + +A large bark cornucopia with bark strap-handle can be made and carried +on the arm in place of a basket when off berrying. + +Variations of circular, oblong, and rectangular bark dishes may be +worked out from strips and rectangular pieces of birch bark, and all +dishes can be turned into baskets by adding handles. When necessary to +sew the edges of bark together, always have the bark wet and soft; then +lap the edges and use a very coarse darning-needle with twine of +inner-bark fibre or rootlets; have ready hot melted grease mixed with +spruce gum to coat over the stitching and edges of the article, or you +can use white-birch resin for the same purpose. + +The bark utensils will wear longer if a slender rootlet or branchlet of +pliable wood is sewed, with the "over-and-over" stitch, to the edge of +the article. + +For round and oblong dishes or baskets, sew together the two ends of +your strip of wet bark; then sew the round or oblong bottom on the lower +edge of the bark circle. In this case it is not easy to lap the edges, +simply bring them together and finish the seam with the addition of the +slender rootlet binding. + +Rectangular dishes are made by folding the wet bark according to the +diagrams and fastening the folds near the top of both ends of the +receptacle. These will hold liquids. + +[Illustration: The birch-bark dish that will hold fluids. Details of +making.] + + +=Cooking Utensils= + +A forked stick with points sharpened makes a fine toasting-fork or +broiling-stick for bacon or other small pieces of meat. The meat is +stuck on the two prongs and held over the fire. + +A split-end stick may be used for the same purpose by wedging the bacon +in between the two sides of the split. + +Your rolling-pin can be a peeled, straight, smooth, round stick, and a +similar stick, not necessarily straight but longer, may do duty as a +biscuit baker when a strip of dough is wound spirally around it and held +over the fire. + +A hot flat stone can also be used for baking biscuits, and a large +flat-topped rock makes a substitute for table and bread-board combined. + +If you have canned goods, save every tin can when empty, melt off the +top, and with nail and hammer puncture a hole on two opposite sides near +the top, and fasten in a rootlet handle. These cans make very +serviceable and useful cooking-pails. + +Whittle out a long-handled cake-turner from a piece of thin split wood, +and also whittle out a large flat fork. + +Make a number of pot-hooks of different lengths, they are constantly +needed at camp; select strong green sticks with a crotch on one end and +drive a nail slantingly into the wood near the bottom of the stick on +which to hang kettles, pots, etc. Be sure to have the nail turn up and +the short side of the crotch turn down as in diagram. + +Campers employ various methods of making candlesticks. One method is to +lash a candle to the side of the top of a stake driven into the ground, +or the stake can have a split across the centre of the top, and the +candle held upright by a strip of bark wedged in the split with a loop +on one side holding the candle and the two ends of the bark extending +out beyond the other side of the stake. Again the candle is stuck into a +little mound of clay, mud, or wet sand. If you have an old glass bottle, +crack off the bottom by pouring a little water in the bottle and placing +it for a short while on the fire embers; then plant your candle in the +ground and slide the neck of the bottle over the candle. Steady it by +planting the neck of the bottle a little way in the ground and the glass +bottle will act as a windbreak for your candle. + +Never leave a candle burning even for a moment unless some one is +present; it is a dangerous experiment. Fire cannot be trifled with. _Put +out_ your candle before leaving it. + +A good idea before going away from camp when vacation is over is to +photograph all the different pieces of your outdoor handicraft, and when +the prints are made label each one with the month, date, and year and +state material used, time required in the making, and comments on the +work by other camp members. + +Be sure to take photographs of different views of the camp as a whole, +also of each separate shelter, both the outside and the inside, and have +pictures of all camp belongings. + +The authors will be greatly interested in seeing these. + +[Illustration: A bear would rather be your friend than your enemy.] + + + + +CHAPTER VI + +MAKING FRIENDS WITH THE OUTDOOR FOLK + +=In the Woods, the Fields, on the Shore. Stalking Animals and Birds= + + +There is but one way to make friends with the folk of the wild, and that +is by gentleness, kindness, and quietness. Also one must learn to be +fearless. It is said that while animals may not understand our language +they do understand, or feel, our attitude toward them; and if it is that +of fear or dislike we stand little chance of really knowing them, to say +nothing of establishing any kind of friendly relations with them. By +quiet watchfulness, keenness of sight and hearing, you may obtain a +certain amount of knowledge of their ways, but when you add real +sympathy and kindly feeling you gain their confidence and friendship. +Make them understand that you will not interfere with or harm them, and +they will go about their own affairs unafraid in your presence. Then you +may silently watch their manner of living, their often amusing habits, +and their frank portrayal of character. As a guest in the wild, +conducting yourself as a courteous guest should, you will be well +treated by your wild hosts, some of whom, in time, may even permit you +to feed and stroke them. They do not dislike but fear you; they would +rather be your friends than your enemies. The baby animal which has not +yet learned to fear a human being will sometimes, when in danger, run to +you for protection. This must win your heart if nothing else can. + +[Illustration: Making friends with a ruffed grouse.] + + +=Stalking= + +You may stalk an animal by remaining quiet as well as by following its +trail. To even see some of the inhabitants of woods, fields, and shore +you must be willing to exercise great patience and conform to their +method of hiding by remaining absolutely still. It is the thing that +moves that they fear. Some of the animals appear not even to see a +person who remains motionless. At any rate, they ignore him as they do a +stump or stone. + +For this quiet stalking, find as comfortable a seat as you can where you +have reason to think some kind of animal or animals will pass and resign +yourself to immovable waiting. If the rock beneath you grows +unreasonably hard or the tree roots develop sharp edges, or the ground +sends up unnoticed stones of torment; if your foot "goes to sleep" or +your nose itches, bear the annoyances bravely and your reward will be +sure and ample. If the wait is unduly long and movement of some kind +becomes imperative, let such movement be made so slowly as to be almost +imperceptible. Remember that unseen, suspicious eyes will be attracted +by any sudden action and the faintest sound will be heard, for these +spell danger to the wilderness folk and if frightened away they are not +apt to return. + +Keep your ears open to detect the first sound of approaching life. There +is a thrill in this experience, and another when the animal you have +heard comes boldly out before you. Then it is you will find that, in +some mysterious way, all bodily discomfort has vanished. Your whole +being is absorbed in the movements of the creature who is unconscious of +your presence, and there is no room for other sensations. More animals +may appear and perhaps a little drama may be enacted as if for your +benefit. + +[Illustration: Found on the trail. + +Chipmunk and white-footed mouse, panther, kangaroo rat, raccoon, and +weasel.] + +It may be a tragedy, it may be a comedy, or it may be only a bit of +every-day family life; but you do not know the plot nor how many actors +will take part, and your very uncertainty adds zest to the situation. + + +=Animals Found on the Trail= + +The animals most frequently seen in the woods where there is no longer +any large game are the chipmunk, the red, the gray, and the black +squirrel, the rabbit and hare, the fox, weasel, pine-marten, woodchuck, +raccoon, opossum, and skunk, also the pack-rat (of the west), the +white-footed and field mouse. In deeper and wilder forests there are +deer and porcupine, though deer are found quite near habitations at +times. In more remote places there are the moose and caribou; the bear, +mountain-lion, lynx or wildcat, and the timber-wolf. The wolf is, +however, equally at home in the open and at this day is most plentiful +on the wide plains of the west. Unless your trail leads through the +remote wilderness, you will hardly come across the more savage animals, +and when you do invade their territory it will give you greater courage +to call to mind the fact that they, as well as the smaller wild things, +are afraid of man. Our most experienced hunters and our best writers on +the subject of animal life agree that a wild animal's first emotion upon +seeing a human being is undoubtedly _fear_. When you come upon one +suddenly you may feel sure that he is as much frightened as you are and +will probably turn aside to avoid you unless he thinks you are going to +attack him. All wild creatures are afraid of fire, therefore the +camp-fire is a barrier they will not pass, and a blazing firebrand will +drive any of them away. + +[Illustration: Timber wolves.] + + +=Birds= + +Among the feathered tribes of the woods you will find the owl, the +woodcock, and the grouse. Of the smaller birds, the nuthatch, the wood +and hermit thrush, whippoorwill, woodpeckers, wood-pewee, and others. +Most of the birds prefer the edge of the woods, where they can dip into +the sunshine and take long flights through the free air of the open; but +the hermit-thrush, shyest and sweetest of singers, makes his home deep +in the silent, shadowy forest. In these depths, and oftenest near a bog +or marsh, you may also hear the call of the partridge, or more properly, +the ruffed grouse. As given by the writer William J. Long, the call is +like this: + +"Prut, prut, pr-r-r-rt! Whit-kwit? Pr-r-r-rt, pr-r-r-rt! Ooo-it, ooo-it? +Pr-r-reeee!" + +Or perhaps you will be startled by the rolling drum-call. This begins +slowly, increases rapidly, and ends something like this: "Dum! dum! dum! +dum-dum-dum-dumdumdum!" The drum-call is made by the male bird who, +beating the air with his wings, produces the sound. It is said to be a +mating-call, but is heard at other times as well, long after the +mating-season is over. + +[Illustration: Baby moose.] + + +=Stalking the Ruffed Grouse= + +If you want to see the birds, stalk them when you hear their call. Wait +until you locate the direction of the sound, then walk silently and +follow it. As soon as the birds are sighted slip from one tree to +another, stopping instantly when you think they may see you, until you +can conceal yourself behind a bush, tree, or stump near enough for you +to peer around and have a good view of your game. It may sometimes be +necessary to drop to your knees in order to keep out of sight. If you +have heard the drum it is the cock that you have stalked and, if early +in the season, you will soon see his demure little mate steal through +the underbrush to meet her lordly master as he stands proudly on an old +log awaiting her. The "whit-kwit" call may lead you to the hen grouse +with her brood of little chicks which are so much the color of the brown +leaves you will not see them until they move. If the call comes later in +the year you may come upon a flock of well-grown young birds who have +left their mother and are now following a leader. + +The ruffed grouse is a beautiful bird. He is yellowish-brown or rusty, +splashed with black or dark brown, and white, with under-parts of a +light buff. His beak is short and on his small, dainty head he carries +his crest proudly. His shoulders bear epaulets of dark feathers, called +the ruff, and his fan-like tail is banded and cross-barred. The nest of +the grouse is on the ground, usually against a fallen log, at the foot +of a tree, or in a hollow made by the roots; or it may be hidden amid +underbrush. It is easily overlooked, being made of dry leaves with, +perhaps, some feathers. In the season it contains from eight to fourteen +eggs. + + +=Woodcock= + +The woodcock, another forest bird, seldom shows himself in broad +daylight except when hunted; then he will rise a few feet, fly a short +distance, drop and run, hiding again as quickly as he can. You will know +the woodcock from the ruffed grouse by his _long bill_, his short legs, +and his very short tail. He frequents the banks of wooded streams or the +bogs of the forests and, like the grouse, nests on the ground; but the +woodcock's nest seldom contains more than four eggs. + +[Illustration: Stalking wild birds.] + + +=Beaver= + +Along the shores of sluggish streams, of lonely lakes and ponds, you may +see the beaver, the muskrat, very rarely the otter, and sometimes an +ugly little, long-bodied animal belonging to the marten family called +the fisher. These are all interesting, each in its own way, and well +worth hours of quiet observation. The beaver, otter, and fisher choose +wild, secluded places for their homes, but the muskrat may be found also +in the marshes of farm lands. On the edges of our Long Island meadows +the boys trap muskrats for their skins. + +You will find the beaver house in the water close to the shore and +overlapping it. Though strongly and carefully built, it looks very much +like a jumble of small driftwood, with bleached sticks well packed +together, and the ends standing out at all angles. The sticks are +stripped of their bark and the house gleams whitely against the dark +water. The houses vary in size, some being built as high as five feet. +The beaver is rarely seen early in the day, most of his work is done at +night, so the best time to watch for him is just before dusk or perhaps +an hour before sundown. It is not well to wait to see the beaver if your +trail back to camp is a long one, leading through dense forests. You +would far better postpone making its acquaintance than to risk going +over the, perhaps, treacherous paths after dark. Night comes early in +the woods and darkness shuts down closely while it is still light in the +open. If your camp is near the beaver house or beaver dam, or if your +trip can be made by water, then, with no anxiety about your return, you +can sit down and calmly await the coming of this most skilful of all +building animals, and may see him add material to his house, or go on +with his work of cutting down a tree, as a reward for your patience. + + +=Fish-Hawk, Osprey= + +On the shore you will also find the fish-hawk, or osprey; a +well-mannered bird he is said to be, who fishes diligently and attends +strictly to his own business. The fish-hawk's nest will generally be at +the top of a dead tree where no one may disturb or look into it, though, +as the accompanying photograph shows, it is sometimes found on rocks +near the ground. The young hawks have a way of their own of defending +themselves from any climbing creature, and to investigators of the nest +the results are disastrously disagreeable as well as laughable. As the +intruder climbs near, the baby birds put their heads over the sides of +the nest and empty their stomachs upon him. This is vouched for by a +well-known writer who claims to have gone through the experience. + +The female osprey is larger and stronger than the male. On slowly moving +wings she sails over the water, dropping suddenly to clutch in her +strong talons the fish her keen eyes have detected near the surface of +the water. Fish are fish to the osprey and salt waters or fresh are the +same to her. I have watched the bird plunge into the waves of the ocean, +on the coast of Maine, to bring out a cunner almost too large for her to +carry, and I have seen her drop into the placid waters of an Adirondack +lake for lake-trout in the same manner. + + +=Blue Heron= + +The great blue heron is one of the shore folk and his metallic blue-gray +body gleams in the sunlight, as you sight him from your canoe, standing +tall and slim, a lonely figure on the bank. He flies slowly and +majestically, with his long legs streaming out behind. When out in a +small boat on Puget Sound a large heron escorted us some distance. As +we rowed near the shore he would fly ahead and then wait for us, +standing solemnly on a stone in the water or a partially submerged log, +to fly again as we approached. + +[Illustration: The fish-hawk will sometimes build near the ground.] + +This escort business seems to be a habit of the heron family, for the +same thing occurred on the Tomoca River, Fla., the home of the +alligator, when a small, brilliantly blue heron flew ahead of our boat +for several miles, always stopping to wait for us, and then going on +again. + +The heron is a fisher and when you see him standing close to the water, +on one foot perhaps, he is awaiting his game. It matters not how long he +must remain immovable, there he will stand until the fish comes within +striking distance, when the long, curved neck will shoot out like a +snake and the strong beak grasp its unwary prey. + + +=Loon, Great Northern Diver= + +Another interesting bird, which you may both hear and see on secluded +lakes, is the loon or great northern diver. I first heard the wild cry +of the loon, a lonesome and eerie sound, on Pine River Pond, a small +lake in the foot-hills of the White Mountains. There I saw the great +bird dive and disappear beneath the water to remain an alarmingly long +time, and then come up several hundred yards away, and rising, fly +slowly to the shore. It is always a matter for guessing when the loon +dives, for you can never tell where she will come up. This great diver +is a large black-and-white bird, about the size of a goose. The breast +is white, head black, and a white ring encircles its black neck. Its +beak is long, its legs very short and placed far back on the body. It is +essentially a water-bird, and on shore is both slow and awkward. I do +not think it possible to become very intimate with the loon, for it is +one of the wildest of our birds, and so suspicious it will allow no +close approach, but quiet watching will reveal many of its interesting +characteristics. Some one once found the nest of a loon and brought me a +little, downy, young one that I might try to tame it; but it lived only +a day or two in spite of all the devotion expended upon it, and its +wild, frightened cry was too pathetic to allow of another experiment of +the kind. + + +=Animals and Birds of the Open= + +You will find that the wild life of the open differs in some respects +from that of the woods, though there will be the woodchuck, the rabbit, +the fox, and the hare in the fields and farm lands as well as in the +woods. The weasel, too, makes unwelcome visits to the farm, but besides +these there are other animals that are seldom or never found in the +woods. + + +=Field-Mouse= + +There is the little field-mouse, a short-eared and short-tailed little +creature with a thick neck and of a red-brown color. It feeds on grain +and seeds, and when hard pressed for food will also eat the bark of +trees. + + +=Kangaroo-Rat, Jumping Mouse= + +In the underbrush near a meadow and at the edges of thickets you may +possibly see, though they are not common, a diminutive animal, beautiful +in form and color and of most interesting habits. In the Southwest it is +called the kangaroo-rat, but North and East it is known as the jumping +mouse. The name kangaroo-rat is given because of its short fore legs, +strong hind legs, and the kangaroo-like leaps it makes. In temper it is +very unlike the ordinary rat; it does not bite and can be safely +handled, but will not live if kept in captivity. + + +=Pocket-Gopher= + +The pocket-gopher lives and burrows in the fields. It is a mole-like +animal but much larger than the common mole. Its legs are short and its +front feet strong, with long nails for digging. The fur is soft and +silky and dark brown in color. Where the gopher is there may be found +the weasel, his greatest enemy. It should be an even fight between them, +for they are equally matched in ill-temper and savageness, and are near +of a size though the gopher is the heavier. + + +=Antelope= + +On the great plains of the west you may still see the beautiful and +gentle antelope, though that animal is fast disappearing, while the +thieving coyote thrives and multiplies in the same region. + + +=Coyote, Prairie-Wolf= + +The coyote, or prairie-wolf, is about the size of a large dog and +resembles one. Its color is gray, made by a mixture of black and white +hairs. It is a cowardly animal and not dangerous, but its contemptible +character could not prevent a wave of compassion that came over me when +I saw one poor creature caged in a wooden box and holding up the bloody +stump where its fore foot had been torn off by the cruel and barbarous +steel trap. + + +=Spermophile= + +In the Middle West, especially in Indiana, the little spermophile, +sometimes called the ground-squirrel, is common and not afraid to +venture into the outskirts of a village. One variety wears spotted brown +and yellow stripes down its back, another is gray, but all are about +the size of a gray squirrel. On the western prairies are the comical +little prairie-dogs. You can see them sitting up on their haunches +watching the train as it carries you over the great plains. + +[Illustration: Antelopes of the western plains.] + + +=Bobolink= + +The birds of the open are varied and many. Most of the forest birds are +seen occasionally in the fields, but some birds make their homes in the +open. You will find the bobolink's nest in a hay-field or down among the +red clover. The bobolink of the north is a sweet singer and is pretty in +his black and white feathers with a touch of yellow at the back of his +head. There are creamy-yellow feathers down his back, too, but they are +not noticeable. When he goes south the male loses his pretty coat and, +clad like his mate in yellowish-brown, is known as the rice-bird because +he feeds on the rice crops. Here he is killed because he is considered a +robber, and eaten because he is considered a delicacy. + + +=Meadow-Lark= + +Early spring trailing through the meadows will bring you the cheery song +of the meadow-lark: "Spring-o-the-year!" Stalk him carefully and you +will find a large brown bird with yellow breast and a black crescent on +his throat. The meadow-lark is about the size of a quail. He stands +erect when he sings, and he has a rather long beak. The nest can be +found, if you look for it, but is generally out of sight under a +loosened clod of earth or tuft of grass. + + +=Red-Winged Blackbird= + +The red-winged blackbird with his sweet call of "O-ka-lie," or +"Ouchee-la-ree-e!" you will also find on the meadows and marshes. He +builds his nest among the reeds and is one of the first of our spring +birds in the north. + + +=Song Sparrow= + +The little song sparrow loves the open and the hot summer sunshine. +Trailing along a country road at midday, when most of the other birds +are still, you will find the song sparrow sitting on a rail fence +singing with undiminished enthusiasm. + +To make friends with the birds provide food and water for them, then sit +down and wait quietly until they appear. Let them become accustomed to +seeing you sitting still every day for a while, then begin slow, careful +movements, gradually becoming more natural, and in time the birds will +allow you to walk among them as you please, if you are careful never to +frighten them. You can do this in camp; you can do it at home if you are +not living in a city. The trustful friendship of animals and birds opens +a new path of happiness and one that all girls should be able, in some +measure, to enjoy. + + + + +CHAPTER VII + +WILD FOOD ON THE TRAIL + +=Edible Fruits, Nuts, Roots, and Plants= + + +While wild foods gathered on the trail give a delightful variety to camp +fare, be advised and do not gather, still less eat, them unless you are +absolutely sure you know what they are and that they are not poisonous. +You must be able to identify a thing with certainty before tasting in +order to enjoy it in safety. It is well worth while to make a study of +the wild-growing foods, but in the meantime this chapter will help you +to know some of them. _The italicized names are of the things I know to +be edible from personal experience._ You are probably well acquainted +with the common wild fruits such as the raspberry, strawberry, +blackberry, blueberry, and huckleberry, but there are varieties of these +and all will bear description. + + +=Red Raspberry= + +The wild berry often has a more delicious flavor and perfume than the +cultivated one of the same species. Nothing can approach the wonderful +and delicate flavor of the little wild strawberry, unless it is the wild +red raspberry; and the fully ripe wild blackberry holds a spicy +sweetness that makes the garden blackberry taste tame and flat in +comparison. + +The _wild red raspberry_ is found in open fields and growing along +fences and the sides of the road. The flowers are white and grow in +loose clusters, while the berry, when fully ripe, is a deep, translucent +red. The bush is shrubby, is generally about waist-high, and the stems +bear small, hooked prickles. The leaves are what is called compound, +being composed of three or five leaflets, usually three, which branch +out from the main stem like the leaves of the rose-bush. The edges of +the leaves are irregularly toothed. + +The berry is cup-shaped and fits over a core which is called the +receptacle, and from which it loosens when ripe to drop easily into your +hand, leaving the receptacle and calyx on the stem. The sweet, +far-carrying perfume of the gathered wild red raspberry will always +identify it. The season for fruit is July and August. + + +=Black Raspberry= + +The growth and leaves of the _wild black raspberry_ are like those of +the red raspberry, and it is found in the same localities. The fruit, +like the other, is cup or thimble shaped and grows on a receptacle from +which it loosens when fully ripe. Blackcaps, these berries are often +called. They ripen in July. The berry is sometimes a little dry, but the +flavor is sweet and fine. + + +=Purple-Flowering Raspberry= + +The purple-flowering raspberry is acid and insipid; it can hardly be +called edible, though it is not poisonous. You will find it clambering +among the rocks on the mountainside and in rocky soil. The leaves are +large and resemble grape leaves, while the flower is large, purplish-red +in color, and grows in loose clusters. + + +=Mountain Raspberry, Cloudberry= + +The usual home of the mountain raspberry, or cloudberry, is on the +mountain-tops among the clouds. You will find it in the White Mountains +and on the coast of Maine, and it has recently been discovered at +Montauk Point, L. I. The fruit has a pleasant flavor of a honey-like +sweetness. The receptacle of the berry is broad and flat, the color is +yellow touched with red where exposed to the sun. It does not grow in +clusters like the other raspberries, but is solitary. The leaves are +roundish with from five to nine lobes, something like the leaves of the +geranium. The plant grows low, is without prickles, and the solitary +flowers are white. In the far north, where it is found in great +profusion, the cloudberry is made into delicious jam. + + +=Wild Strawberry= + +When crossing sandy knolls or open, uncultivated fields and pastures, +the alluring perfume of the _wild strawberry_ will sometimes lead you to +the patch which shows the bright-red little berry on its low-growing +plant. It is common everywhere, though it bears the name of wild +Virginia strawberry. In Latin it is most appropriately called +_Fragaria_, meaning fragrant. The leaves are compound with three +coarsely toothed, hairy leaflets. The small white flowers grow in sparse +clusters on rather long, hairy stems. They have many deep yellow stamens +which are surrounded by the fine white petals. In fruiting time the +leaves are often bright-red. + + +=Low Running Blackberry= + +Among the mountains and hills, down in the valleys, and on the plains; +straggling along roadsides, clinging to fence rails, and sprawling over +rocks, you will find the wild blackberry. There are several varieties, +and blackberries of some kind are common throughout the United States. + +The _low running blackberry_ belongs to the dewberry type and bears the +largest and juiciest berries. It is a trailing vine with compound leaves +of from four to seven leaflets which are double-toothed. The berries are +black and glossy and grow in small clusters. They are sweet and pulpy +when thoroughly ripe and the best ones are those which ripen slowly +under the shelter of the leaves. + +Blackberries grow on a receptacle or core, but unlike the raspberry, +they do not separate from it. When ripe they drop easily from the calyx +carrying the receptacle with them. The flowers are small and white, and +grow in clusters. + + +=Running Swamp Blackberry= + +Perhaps you have seen the blackberry with fruit so small it seems only +partially developed and, like myself, have hesitated to taste it, not +being sure that it was a true blackberry and edible. It takes a good +many of these little berries to make a mouthful, but they are harmless. +They are called the _running swamp blackberry_. They ripen in August and +grow in sandy places as well as in the swamps. There are three leaflets, +seldom more, to the stem, which are blunt at the tip, smooth, shining, +and coarsely toothed. The flowers are small and white, and the stems +prickly. + + +=High-Bush Blackberry= + +Throughout the northern states as far west as Iowa, Kansas, and Missouri +and down to North Carolina, you may find the _high-bush blackberry_. Its +stems are sometimes ten feet high; they are furrowed and thorny and the +bush grows along country roads, by fences, and in the woods. The berries +are sweet, but quite seedy. They grow in long, loose clusters and ripen +in July. + + +=Mountain Blackberry= + +There is another variety called the _mountain blackberry_. It has a +spicy flavor, but the fruit is small and dry. The leaves are more +elongated toward the tip than those of the others and they are finely +toothed. The branches are reddish in color. + + +=Thornless Blackberry= + +The sweetest of all varieties is said to be the thornless blackberry. It +ripens later than the others and has no thorns. The leaves are long and +narrow. + + +=Eastern Wild Gooseberry= + +Among the mountains from Massachusetts to North Carolina, the eastern +wild gooseberry grows. It is said that its flavor is delicious. The +fruit is purplish in color and is free from all prickles. It grows on +slender stems and, like the cultivated gooseberry, is tipped with the +dry calyx. The leaves are small, rather round, and have three or five +lobes. The flowers are greenish and insignificant. The plant is three or +four feet high, with spreading branches and smooth stems. + +[Illustration: WALNUT + +HIGH-BUSH BLUEBERRY + +WINTERGREEN + +Good food on the trail.] + + +=Dwarf Blueberry= + +Perhaps the most satisfactory of all berries when one is really hungry +is the blueberry, of which there are several varieties. The _dwarf +blueberry_ is probably the most common. It is the earliest of the +blueberries to ripen and grows in the thin, sandy, and rocky soil which +is spurned by most other plants. You will find it upon barren hillsides, +in rocky fields, and in dry pine woods. The berries are round, blue, +about the size of peas, and are covered with bloom like the grape. They +grow in thick clusters at the end of the branch and are tipped with fine +calyx teeth. The seeds are so small as to be almost unnoticed and the +soft ripe berry will bruise easily. + +The flavor of all blueberries has a nutty quality which seems to give +the berry more substance as a food. The leaf is rather narrow and +pointed at each end; the under side is a lighter green than the upper +and both are glossy. In the fall the leaves turn red and drop easily. +The bush is low and the branches usually covered with small, white dots. + + +=Low Blueberry= + +Another variety is called the _low blueberry_. It is very much like the +dwarf blueberry, but the bush grows sometimes as high as four feet. It +is stiff and upstanding and prefers the edge of the woods and sheltered +roadsides to the dry open fields. The berries are blue with a grape-like +bloom and, like the first variety, grow in thick clusters at the end of +the branch. You can grab a good handful in passing, so many are there in +a bunch. + + +=High-Bush Blueberry= + +On the _high-bush blueberry_ the color of the berries varies. Some +bushes bear a black, shiny berry, others a smooth, blue, and still +others blue with a bloom. The sizes differ also. The berries grow in +clusters, at times on branches almost bare of leaves; some are sweet, +others sour. The leaves are a pointed oval with the under side lighter +in color than the upper; in some cases the under side is hairy. The +flowers are pinkish and shaped somewhat like a cylinder. The bush grows +occasionally to the height of ten feet, and you will generally find it +in marshy places. I know that it grows by the edge of Teedyuskung Lake +in Pike County, Pa., where our summer camp is located, but it is found +also in pasturelands. + + +=Dangleberry= + +Another variety is called the dangleberry. The berries grow on stems in +loose clusters; they are rather large, of a dark-blue color with a +bloom; they ripen late and are not very plentiful. The pale-green leaves +are large, white, and resinous underneath, and are oval in shape. The +flowers are greenish-pink and hang like bells on slender stems. + + +=Wintergreen. Checkerberry= + +Almost every one knows the little cherry-red _wintergreen berry_ or +_checkerberry_, and almost every one likes its sweet aromatic flavor but +few would care to make a meal of it. The fruit is too dry for hearty +eating and the flavor too decided. The evergreen leaves are leathery in +texture and their flavor is stronger than that of the berry; they are +whitish underneath and dark, glossy green above. They are oval in shape +and have a few small teeth or none at all. The flowers are white, waxy, +and cup-shaped; they hang like bells from their short stems. The plant +grows close to the ground, generally in the woods and moist places. It +is found as far north as Maine and west to Michigan. + +Do not mistake the bunchberry for the wintergreen. It, too, grows low on +the ground, but the bunchberries are in close clusters at the top of the +small plant where the leaves radiate. The berries are bright scarlet, +round and smooth, and are _not_ edible. Flower and leaf resemble those +of the dogwood-tree, to which family the bunchberry belongs. + + +=Partridgeberry= + +Another ground berry is the partridgeberry. This may be eaten but is dry +and rather tasteless. It is a red berry and grows on a slender, trailing +vine. Its leaves are small and heart-shaped; some are veined with white. +They are evergreen. The flowers grow in pairs and are like four-pointed +stars at the ends of slender tubes. Inside they are creamy white, +outside a delicate pink. The partridgeberry likes pine forests and dry +woods. + + +=June-Berry. Shadbush= + +There are berries on trees as well as on bushes and vines, at least they +are called berries though not always resembling them. + +The June-berry is a tree from ten to thirty feet in height, while its +close relative, the shadbush, is a low tree and sometimes a shrub. The +fruit resembles the seed-vessels of the rose; it grows in clusters and +is graded in color from red to violet; it has a slight bloom and the +calyx shows at the summit. It ripens in June and is said to be sweet and +delicious in flavor. The oblong leaves are sharply toothed, rounded at +the base and pointed at the tip. The young leaves are hairy. The flowers +are white and grow in clusters. + +The shadbush grows in wet places and its fruit is smaller and on shorter +stems. It is also said to be more juicy. The leaves are rather woolly. + +[Illustration: PERSIMMON + +SWEET VIBURNUM + +Fruits found principally in the south and the middle west.] + + +=Red Mulberry= + +Although the finest _mulberry-trees_ are said to be found along the +Mississippi and the lower Ohio Rivers, I have seen large, thrifty trees +in Connecticut and on Long Island. They grow from Massachusetts to +Florida and west to Nebraska. Birds are very fond of the mulberry. The +first rose-breasted grosbeaks I ever saw were in a great mulberry-tree +on a farm in the northern part of Connecticut. The berry is shaped much +like a blackberry; it is juicy and sweet, but lacks flavor. It grows on +a short stem and is about an inch in length. In July when the berry +ripens it is a dark purple. + +There is a decided variety in the shape of the leaves on one tree; some +have seven lobes, some none at all. The edges of most are scalloped, +though I have seen leaves with smooth edges. + +The _white mulberry_ is seldom found growing wild. The fruit is like the +red mulberry but perfectly white. + + +=Sweet Viburnum. Nanny-Berry. Sheepberry= + +The fruit of the sweet viburnum, nanny-berry or sheepberry, is said to +be edible. It grows on a small tree, of the honeysuckle family, in the +woods and by the streams from Canada to Georgia and west as far as +Missouri. The tree has a rusty, scaly bark and broad, oval leaves, +pointed at the tip and finely toothed. The flower clusters are large +and, though white, they appear yellowish from the many yellow anthers at +the centre. When entirely ripe the fruit is a dark blue or black and is +covered with a bloom; before ripening it is crimson. The berry grows in +clusters on slender red stems. It is elongated and rather large. At its +summit is the calyx and stigma. The seed inside the berry is a stone +which is flattened, blunt-pointed, and grooved. The fruit ripens in +September and October. + + +=Large-Fruited Thorn= + +The thorns, large-fruited and scarlet, are edible. As a child I knew the +fruit as _haws_ and was very fond of it. The large-fruited thorn is a +low tree with branches spreading out horizontally. You will often find +it in thickets. The bark is rough and the thorns on the branches are +long, sharp, and of a light-brown color. In flavor the fruit is sweet +and apple-like; the flesh is dry and mealy; it grows on hairy stems and +the seeds are hard, rounded, and grooved. The summit is tipped with the +calyx and it ripens in September. The leaves are thick, narrowed at the +base, and rounded at the ends, with veins underneath that are prominent +and often hairy. + + +=Black Haw. Stag-Bush= + +The fruit of the black haw, or stag-bush, is not edible until after +frost has touched it. It is oval, dark blue with bloom, and about half +an inch long. It grows in stiff clusters on short, branching stems. The +shrub, which is sometimes a small tree, is bushy and crooked, with stout +and spreading branches. It is found from Connecticut to Georgia and as +far west as the Indian Territory. It grows among the underbrush in +forests. The bark is scaly and of a reddish-brown color, the leaves are +dark green and smooth on the upper side, paler and sometimes covered +with matted hair on the under side, where the veins show prominently; +they are two or three inches long and generally oval in shape with no +teeth. The flowers are cream-white and grow in flat-topped clusters. + + +=Wild Plums. Canada Plum= + +There is a wild plum that is found in our New England States and in +Canada known as the Canada plum. The plant grows along fences, in +thickets, and by the side of streams. The plum is from one inch to one +and a half inches long and is red or orange in color. It has a tough +skin and a flat stone. The flavor is considered pleasant but the fruit +is generally used for preserving. The leaves have long, sharp points at +the ends and are rather heart-shaped at the base. The flowers, white in +bud, change to pink when opened. They grow in thin clusters. + + +=Beach Plum= + +Usually on sandy and stony beaches, though at times farther inland, you +may find the beach plum. It is a low shrub and grows in clumps. The +fruit is apt to be abundant and is sweet when quite ripe. This plum, +also, is used for preserving. The color of the fruit is from red to +red-purple, it has a bloom over it and grows on a slender stem. The thin +stone is rounded on one edge, sharp on the other, and generally has +pointed ends. The fruit ripens in August and September. The leaf is +oval, has a sharp-pointed tip, is rounded at the base, and has fine, +forward-pointed teeth. There are many white flowers which grow in +clusters along the branches. + + +=Wild Red Cherry= + +The wild red cherry is sour but edible; it is best used as preserves. +The tree is usually small yet sometimes reaches the height of thirty +feet. It is oftenest found in the woods of the north, but also grows +among the mountains as far south as Tennessee. The bark is a +reddish-brown and has rusty dots over it. The leaves are oblong, pointed +at the tips and rather blunt at the base. They are bright green and +glossy. The white flower is much like the cultivated cherry blossom but +smaller; it grows in clusters. The cherries are light red and about the +size of a pea. + +[Illustration: CANADA PLUM + +SCARLET HAW + +WILD BLACK CHERRY + +Fruits found principally in the north and the middle west.] + + +=Sand-Cherry= + +Growing in the sand along our eastern coast as far south as New Jersey +and sometimes on the shores of the Great Lakes, the sand-cherry is +found. It is a low, trailing bush, but in some cases sends up erect +branches as high as four feet. The fruit is dark red--black when quite +ripe--and about half an inch long. It grows in small clusters or +solitary, and is said to be sweet and edible. The leaves, dark green on +the upper side, are lighter underneath; they are rather narrow, broadest +toward the end and tapering at the base. The edge is toothed almost to +the base. The flowers are white and thinly clustered. + + +=Persimmon= + +In the Southern, Western, and Middle States, some say as far north as +New York, grows the _persimmon_. Deliciously sweet and spicy when frost +has ripened it, very astringent until ripe. It is plentiful in Kentucky +and one of my earliest memories is of going to market with my mother in +the fall to buy persimmons. There I learned to avoid the fair, perfect +fruit, though to all appearances it was quite ripe, and to choose that +which looked bruised and broken. + +The persimmon is about the size of a plum, but is flattened at the +poles. It grows close to the branch and its calyx is large. The color is +yellow generally flushed with red. Some writers describe it as juicy, +but I would not call it that; the flesh is more like custard or soft +jelly. + +The tree usually varies in height from thirty to fifty feet, but in some +places is said to reach one hundred or more feet. The trunk is short and +the branches spreading. In the south it often forms a thicket in +uncultivated fields and along roadsides. The bark is dark brown or dark +gray, the surface is scaly and divided into plates. The leaves are +usually a narrow oval with smooth edges; when matured they are dark +green and glossy on the upper side, underneath pale and often downy. The +flower is a creamy-white or greenish-yellow. + + +=Papaw= + +The papaw is another fruit I knew well as a child. It is sometimes +called custard-apple because the flesh resembles soft custard. As I +write I can almost taste the, to me, sickish sweetness of the fruit and +feel the large, smooth, flat seeds in my mouth. In shape the papaw +somewhat resembles the banana, the texture of the skin is the same, but +the surface of the papaw is smoothly rounded and it is shorter and +thicker than the banana, being usually from three to five inches long. +It ripens in September and October. The tree is small, often a shrub, +and it grows wild no farther north than western New York. + +There are some cultivated papaw-trees on Long Island, but I do not think +they bear fruit. Certainly none that I have seen have ever fruited. You +will find the tree as far south as Florida and Texas, through the Middle +States and west to Michigan and Kansas. It flourishes in the bottom +lands of the Mississippi Valley and seeks the shade of the forests. The +bark is dark brown with gray blotches; the leaves are large, being from +two to twelve inches long and four inches wide. They are oval, pointed +at the tip and narrowed at the base. When matured they are smooth, dark +green on the upper side and paler beneath. At first the flower is as +green as the leaves, but finally turns a deep red-purple. It grows close +to the branch and is solitary. + + +=May-Apple= + +One of the most delicious wild fruits we have is the _May-apple_ or +_mandrake_. It is finely flavored, sweet and juicy, but being a laxative +one must eat of it sparingly. It is most common in the Middle States and +reaches perfection in Ohio. + +The plant is from twelve to eighteen inches high, and the large +umbrella-like leaves are lifted on smooth, straight stems. The fruit +usually grows from the fork of two leaves. It is yellow, lemon-shaped, +and about the size of a plum. The flesh is like that of the plum and +there are numerous seeds in fleshy seed coverings. It ripens in July and +is quite soft when fully ripe. I have sometimes gathered the firm, +yellow May-apples, put them away in a cool, dark, dry place to ripen, +and in taking them out have found them in prime condition. They will +ripen in this way without spoiling if not allowed to touch one another. + +The leaves frequently measure a foot in diameter; they have from five to +nine lobes, which are notched and pointed at the tips; the upper side is +darker than the lower. While the fruit of the May-apple is edible, the +leaves and root are poisonous, not to the touch but to the taste. The +flower is a clear white with from eight to twelve rounding petals and it +generally measures about one and a half inches across. The petals expand +in the morning, become erect in the afternoon, and close at night. We +are told that the May-apple is a roadside plant, but I have found it +only in the woods. + + +=Wild Grapes= + +There are several varieties of wild grapes, all, I think, edible but not +all pleasant to the taste. The fox-grape is sweet, but has a musky +flavor and odor, a thick skin, and a tough pulp. The fruit ripens in +September but few care to eat it. The vine grows luxuriantly and is very +common. The summer grape is another tough-skinned grape. It is not musky +but is generally astringent. The vine resembles the fox-grape in growth, +being strong and vigorous. The fruit of the blue grape is sour and hangs +in long, heavy clusters. It is usually found along water-ways. + +[Illustration: MAY APPLE MANDRAKE + +PARTRIDGE BERRY + +Fruits common to most of the States.] + + +=Frost-Grape or Chicken-Grape= + +If you try to eat the _frost-grapes_ before frost you will find them +decidedly sour, but after a good frost they are really fine. They have a +snappy, spicy flavor all their own, and one eats them, like currants, +skin and all. They are small, round, and black with a slight bloom. The +clusters are well-filled and hang loosely. The vine grows luxuriantly, +branching from a large trunk, and is found in wet places and on the +banks of streams, though it does well in the open and in drier soil. It +flourishes in New England and down to Illinois and westward to Nebraska. +The leaves usually suggest three lobes but are mostly undivided. They +are coarsely toothed and the under side bears occasional hairs along the +veins. + + +=Wild Nuts. Black Walnuts= + +Of all the wild-growing foods, nuts are, perhaps, the most nutritious. +The _black walnut_, not plentiful in the Atlantic States but abundant in +the Middle States and in the Mississippi Valley, has a rich, wild +flavor, and a deep-brown stain for the hands that tear it from its +ball-like covering of tough, pimply green which forms the outer husk. +The nut is sometimes oblong, sometimes almost round, with a deeply +grooved, hard, brown shell. It grows in pairs or solitary. The tree is +large, often reaching the height of one hundred feet, and its trunk is +from four to six feet in diameter. The bark is dark brown with deep +vertical grooves and its surface is broken with thick scales. The leaves +are compound, growing on a middle stem which is sometimes two feet long. +Each leaflet is a narrow oval, sharply pointed at the end, and usually +about three inches long. The nuts require frost to ripen them. + + +=Butternut= + +While the _butternut-tree_ is much like the walnut in general +appearance, it does not grow as large. The nuts are different in shape +and in flavor, and the leaflets are hairy instead of smooth. The +butternut does not grow as far north as the walnut, but is often found +side by side with the walnut in the Middle States. The green outer +covering of the nut is oblong and sticky on the surface, and, like the +walnut, will stain the hands. The shell is hard, brown, oblong, and +pointed at one end. It is deeply grooved. The flavor is rich but the nut +being oily soon becomes rancid. + + +=Hickory-Nuts= + +In gathering hickory-nuts you must be able to distinguish between the +edible variety and others that are fair on the outside but bitter +within. There are nine varieties of hickory-nut trees, and in general +appearance they are alike. All have compound leaves and the leaflets are +larger and fewer to the stem than the walnut, usually numbering from +five to eleven. The nuts grow in small clusters as a rule, often in +pairs, and the outer husk separates when ripe into four pieces, allowing +the nut to drop out clean and dry. The full-grown tree is of good size +and is found almost everywhere in the United States. + + +=Shellbark. Shagbark= + +The _shellbark_ or shagbark hickory-nut is one of the best. The flavor, +as every one knows, is sweet and pleasant. It is the bark of the tree +that gives it the name of shagbark, for it separates into long, ragged +strips several inches wide which generally hold to the trunk at the +middle and give it an unkempt, shaggy appearance. + + +=Mockernut= + +The _mockernut_ is the hickory-nut with a dark, brownish-colored shell, +hard and thick and not easily cracked. It is called the mockernut +because while the nut is large, usually larger than the shellbark, the +kernel is very small and difficult to take out of the thick shell. + + +=Pignut= + +I will italicize the _pignut_ because, though I have never eaten it, I +once tried to, and the first taste was all-sufficient. Some writers tell +us that the flavor is sweet or slightly bitter. It was the decidedly +bitter kind that I found lying temptingly clean and white under the +tree. The thin outer husk of the pignut is not much larger than the nut. +It is broader at the top than at the stem, where it narrows almost to a +point. The husk does not open as freely as that of the other +hickory-nuts. It is inclined to cling to the nut; in some cases it only +partially opens and drops with the nut. + +[Illustration: SHELLBARK HICKORY NUT + +PIGNUT + +Hickory nuts, sweet and bitter.] + + +=Beechnut= + +One of the sweetest and most delicately flavored of our native nuts is +the little, triangular _beechnut_. The tree is common and widely +distributed, but few people know anything about the nut. In Kentucky the +nuts used to be plentiful, but I have seen none in New York. It is said +that a beech-tree must be fully forty years old before it will bear +fruit, and that may be the reason the nuts are not oftener found. + +The soft-shelled nut is very small, no larger than the tip of your +little finger. The color is pale brown, and it is three-sided with sharp +angles. It is contained in a small, prickly husk and grows both solitary +or in clusters of two or three. When touched by frost the burr opens and +allows the nut to fall out while the burr remains on the tree. + +The bark of the beech-tree is ashy gray, and the leaf is oblong, pointed +at the tip, toothed on the edge, and strongly veined. + + +=Chestnut= + +I find that the _chestnut-tree_ is not as well known as its fruit, which +is sold from stands on the street corners of most American cities. A +round, green prickly burr is the husk of the nut, and this is lined +inside with soft, white, velvety down. Nestled closely in this soft bed +lie several dark-brown nuts with soft, polished shells. The first frost +opens the burrs, and the sweet nuts fall to the ground. + +You may recognize the tree in midsummer by its long-tasselled, +cream-white blossoms, which hang in profusion from the ends of the +branches. The chestnut is the only forest-tree that blossoms at that +time, so you cannot mistake it. Later you will know it by the prickly +green burrs, which develop quickly. The tree is large and common to most +States. The leaves are from six to eight inches long; they are coarsely +toothed at the edges, sharply pointed at the end, and are prominently +veined on the under side. They grow mostly in tufts drooping from a +common centre. + +[Illustration: Nuts with soft shells. Beechnut and chestnut.] + + +=Bark and Roots of Trees= + + +=Slippery-Elm= + +The inner bark and the root of the _slippery-elm_ are not only pleasant +to the taste but are said to be nutritious. They have a glutinous +quality that gives the tree its name, and the flavor is nutty and +substantial. + +This variety of elm is common and is found from the Saint Lawrence River +to Florida. It grows to a height of sixty or seventy feet, with +spreading branches which flatten at the top. The outline of the tree is +much like that of a champagne-glass, wide at the top and narrow at the +stem. The slippery-elm resembles the white elm, but there are +differences by which you can know it. If you stroke the leaf of a white +elm you will find that it is rough one way but smooth the other; stroke +the leaf of the slippery-elm, and it will be rough _both_ ways. The buds +of the white elm are smooth, those of the slippery-elm are _hairy_. Then +you cannot mistake the inner bark of the slippery-elm, which is +fragrant, thick, and gummy. The outer bark is dark brown, with shallow +ridges and large, loose plates. The leaves are oblong, rounded at the +base, and are coarsely toothed. They are prominently veined and are dark +green, paler on the under side. + + +=Sassafras= + +The _sassafras_ grows wild from Massachusetts to Florida, and west +through the Mississippi Valley. It is generally a small tree, from +thirty to fifty feet high, and is often found growing in dense thickets +in uncultivated fields. The edible bark is dark red-brown. It is thick +but not hard and is deeply ridged and scaled. The cracked bark is one +of the characteristics of the tree; it begins to split when the tree is +about three years old. The strong aromatic flavor is held by the bark, +the wood, the roots, the stems, and the leaves. I have never tasted the +fruit, which is berry-like, dark blue, and glossy, and is held by a +thick, scarlet calyx; but the birds are fond of it. + +Sassafras tea was at one time considered the best of spring medicines +for purifying the blood, and the bark was brought to market cut in short +lengths and tied together in bunches. + +The leaves are varied; on one twig there will sometimes be three +differently shaped leaves. Some will be oval, some with three lobes, and +some mitten-shaped; that is, an oval leaf with a side lobe like the +thumb of a mitten. + + +=Salads. Watercress= + +There is no more refreshing salad than the _watercress_ gathered fresh +from a cool, running brook. It is a common plant, found almost anywhere +in streams and brooks. Its smooth green or brownish leaves lie on the +top of the water; they are compound, with from three to nine small +rounded leaflets. The flavor is peppery and pungent. Watercress +sandwiches are good. The white flowers are small and insignificant and +grow in a small cluster at the end of the stem. + + +=Dandelion= + +A salad of tender, young _dandelion_ leaves is not to be despised, and +the plant grows everywhere. Only the very young leaves, that come up +almost white in the spring, are good. The flavor is slightly bitter with +the wholesome bitterness one likes in the spring of the year. These +young leaves are also good when cooked like spinach. The plant is so +common it does not really call for a description, and if you know it you +can skip the following: + +Growing low on the ground, sometimes with leaves lying flat on the +surface, the dandelion sends up a hollow, leafless stem crowned with a +bright-yellow, many-petalled flower about the size of a silver +fifty-cent piece. The seed head is a round ball of white down. The +leaves are deeply notched, much like thistle leaves, but they have no +prickles. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII + +LITTLE FOES OF THE TRAILER + +=Poisonous Insects, Reptiles, and Plants= + + +=Insects= + + +My first experience with wood-ticks, jiggers, and Jersey mosquitoes was +during the summer we spent at Bayville, near Toms River, N. J. In many +ways Bayville, with its sand, its pines, its beautiful wood roads, and +rare wild flowers, is an interesting and attractive place. The salty air +is fine when the thermometer is self-respecting and keeps the mercury +below 90° in the shade, but the oak underbrush harbors wood-ticks, the +blackberry bushes cover you with jiggers, the woods are full of +deer-flies, and the vicious mosquito, whose name is Legion, is +everywhere where he is not barred out. + + +=Wood-Ticks= + +I had been told of the ticks that infest the forests of the South, had +heard blood-curdling stories of how they sometimes bury themselves, +entire, in the flesh of animals and men and have to be cut out, and my +horror of them was great. In reality I found them unpleasant enough but, +as far as we were concerned, comparatively harmless. + +The wood-tick is a small, rather disgusting-looking creature which, in +appearance and size, resembles the common bedbug. It fastens itself upon +you without your knowledge and you do not feel it even when it begins +to suck your blood, but something generally impels you to pass your +hand over the back of your neck, or cheek, where the thing is clinging, +and, feeling the lump, you pull it off and no great harm done. The tick +is supposed always to bury its head in the flesh, and it is said that if +the head is left in when the bug is pulled off an ugly sore will be the +result. We had no experience of that kind, however, nor, in our hurry to +get rid of it, did we stop to remove the bug scientifically by dropping +oil on it, as Kephart advises, but just naturally and simply, also +vigorously, we grasped it between thumb and forefinger and hastily +plucked it off. The effect of the bite was no worse on any of our party +than that of the Jersey mosquito. + +Often your friends will see a tick on you and tell you of it even while +they have several, all unknown to themselves, decorating their own +countenance. The name by which science knows this unlovely bug is +_Ixodes leech_. + + +=Jigger. Redbug. Mite= + +The tiny mite called by the natives jigger and redbug is more annoying +than the wood-tick, one reason being that there are so many more of him. +He really does penetrate the skin, and his wanderings under the surface +give one the feeling of an itching rash which covers the body. You won't +see the jigger--he is too small, but if you invade his domain you will +certainly feel him. + + +=Deer-Fly= + +The deer-fly will bite and bite hard enough to hurt. It will drive its +sharp mandibles into your skin with such force as to take out a bit of +the flesh, sometimes causing the blood to flow, but the bite does not +seem particularly poisonous, though you feel it at the time and it +generally raises a lump on the flesh. The deer-fly belongs to the +family of gadflies. It is larger than a house-fly and its wings stand +out at right angles to its body. It will not trouble you much except in +the woods. + + +=Black-Fly= + +The Adirondack and North Woods region is not only the resort of hunters, +campers, and seekers after health and pleasure, but it is also the haunt +of the maddening black-fly. From early spring until the middle of July +or first of August the black-fly holds the territory; then it evacuates +and is seen no more until next season, when it begins a new campaign. + +Under the name of buffalo-fly the black-fly is found in the west, where, +on the prairies, it has been known to wage war on horses until death +ensued--death of the horses, not of the fly. It is a small fly about +one-sixth of an inch long, thick-bodied, and black. It is said to have +broad silvery circles on its legs, but no one ever stops to look at +these. Its proboscis is developed to draw blood freely, and it is always +in working order. + +The only virtue the black-fly seems to have is its habit of quitting +operations at sundown and leaving to other tormenters the task of +keeping you awake at night. When the black-fly bites you will know it, +and it will leave its mark, when it does leave, which must generally be +by your help, for it holds on with commendable persistence. If you would +learn more of this charming insect, look for _Simulium molestum_ in a +book which treats the subject scientifically. + + +=No-see-um. Punky. Midge= + +There is another pest of the North Woods which the guides call the +no-see-um. It is a very diminutive midge resembling the mosquito in +form and viciousness, but so small as to be almost invisible. Night and +day are the same to the no-see-um; its warfare is continuous and its +bite very annoying, but it disappears with the black-fly in July or +August. By September the mountains and woods are swept clear of all +these troublesome things, except at times and in some places the +ever-hungry mosquito, which will linger on for a last bite in his summer +feast. + +The only way to relieve the irritation caused by the bites of these +pests, including the mosquito, is to bathe the affected parts with +camphor, alcohol, or diluted ammonia. When there are but one or two +bites they may be touched with strong ammonia, but it will not do to use +this too freely, as it will burn the skin. + + +=Gnats= + +In the mountains of Pennsylvania the most troublesome insects I found +were the tiny gnats that persist in flying into one's eyes in a very +exasperating fashion. They swarm in a cloud in front of your face as you +walk and make constant dashes at your eyes, although to reach their goal +brings instant death. + +It is not much trouble to get one of these gnats out of your eye when it +once gets in. All that is necessary is to take the eyelashes of the +upper eyelid between your thumb and first finger, and draw the upper +eyelid down _over_ the under eyelid. The under eyelashes sweep the upper +lid clear, and the rush of tears that comes to the eye washes the insect +out. + + +=Bees, Wasps, and Yellow-Jackets= + +While honey-bees and wasps can make themselves most disagreeable when +disturbed, you can usually keep away from beehives and bee-trees as +well as from the great gray, papery nests of the wasp; but the hornets +or yellow-jackets have an uncomfortable habit of building in low bushes +and on the ground where you may literally put your foot in a hornets' +nest. + +They are hot-tempered little people, these same hornets, as I have +reason to know. Twice I have been punished by them, and both times it +was my head they attacked. Once I found them, or they found me, in a +cherry-tree; and the second time we met was when I stepped in their nest +hidden on the ground. Their sting is like a hot wire pressed into the +flesh. When angered they will chase you and swarm around your head, +stinging whenever they can; but they may be beaten off if some friendly +hand will wield a towel or anything else that comes handy. + +If the stings of any of these stinging insects are left in the wounds +they should be taken out with a _clean_ needle or _clean_ knife-blade. +In any case mix some mud into a paste and plaster it on the parts that +have been stung. If you are in camp and have with you a can of +antiphlogistine use that instead of the mud; it is at least more sightly +and is equally efficient in reducing inflammation. + +Various things have been devised as protection against insect torments. + +One is a veil of net to be worn over the hat. You will find this +described in Chapter IV under the heading of Personal Outfits. + + +=Dopes= + +Then there are dopes to be rubbed over the face, neck, and hands. The +three said to be the best are Nessmuk's Dope, Breck's Dope, and H. P. +Wells's Bug-Juice. There is also a Rexall preparation which, I am told, +is good while it stays on, but will wash off with perspiration. + + +=Nessmuk's Dope= + +In giving the recipe for his dope, Nessmuk says that it produces a glaze +over the skin and that in preventing insect bites he has never known it +to fail. This is the dope: + + Pine tar 3 oz. + Castor oil 2 oz. + Oil of pennyroyal 1 oz. + + Simmer all together over a slow fire, and bottle. + + This is sufficient for four persons for two weeks. + + +=Breck's Dope= + + Pine tar 3 oz. + Olive (or castor oil) 2 oz. + Oil of pennyroyal 1 oz. + Citronella 1 oz. + Creosote 1 oz. + Camphor (pulverized) 1 oz. + Large tube of carbolated vaseline. + + Heat the tar and oil, and add the other + ingredients; simmer over slow fire until well + mixed. The tar may be omitted if disliked or for + ladies' use. + +Breck tells us that his dope was planned to be a counter-irritant after +being bitten as well as a preventer of bites. + + +=H. P. Wells's Bug-Juice= + + Olive oil 1/2 pt. + Creosote 1 oz. + Pennyroyal 1 oz. + Camphor 1 oz. + + Dissolve camphor in alcohol and mix. + +Any dope must be well rubbed in on face, neck, ears, and _behind ears_, +hands (on the backs), wrists, and arms; but be very careful not to get +it _in your eyes_. + + +=Smudges= + +Smudges are said to afford relief in camp, but my own experience has +been that the insects can stand them better than I. A smudge is made by +burning things that make little flame and much smoke. Dead leaves, not +too dry, will make a fairly good smudge, but a better way is to burn +damp cedar bark, or branches, on piles of hot coals taken from the +camp-fire and kept alive at different sides of the camp. + +The accounts of extreme suffering caused by insect bites come from +unusually sensitive people. All people are not affected alike. Two +persons from one camp will tell entirely different stories of their +experience with insects. The best way to encounter these, as all other +annoyances, is to protect yourself as well as you can and then, without +whimpering, make the best of the situation. All the pests described will +not fall upon you at once, and, taken singly or even doubly, you will +manage to survive the ordeal. If the pleasure of the trail did not +over-balance the pain there would be fewer campers to relate their +troubles. + + +=Snakes= + +The bite of a poisonous snake is by all means to be avoided, and the +point is: you almost always can avoid it. With all the snakes in the +United States, Doctor William T. Hornaday, director of the Zoological +Park of New York City, tells us that out of seventy-five million people +not more than two die each year of snake-bites. + +Snakes are not man-hunters; they will not track you down; they much +prefer to keep out of your way. What you have to do is to keep out of +theirs. In a region where poisonous snakes abound it is well to wear +khaki leggins as a protection in case you inadvertently step too near +and anger the creatures, for in such cases they sometimes strike before +you have time to beat a retreat. According to Doctor Hornaday, the +poisonous snakes of North America are: + + The rattlesnake, + Water-moccasin, + Copperhead, + Sonora coral-snake, + Harlequin snake. + + +=Rattlesnakes= + +The rattlesnake appears to vary in color and markings in the different +localities where it is found, and there are fourteen or fifteen +varieties, but all carry the rattles, shake them warningly, and coil +before they strike. The rattlesnake does not want to fight and if you +keep at a safe distance it will glide off in another direction, but it +is safest not to venture within striking distance, which is said to be +two-thirds the length of the snake, even if the snake has not coiled, +for it moves quickly and strikes like a flash. + +The rattles are at the extreme end of the tail and are composed of horny +joints. The sound of the rattle is much like the humming of a locust +(cicada). Rattlesnakes are often found sunning themselves on large +rocks, and stone-quarries are the chosen winter quarters where whole +colonies assemble. They are also found, during the summer, among +underbrush and in stubble-fields, where they probably go to hunt +field-mice and other small mammals. + +[Illustration: BANDED RATTLESNAKE + +POISONOUS + +WATER-MOCCASIN + +POISONOUS + +RED-BELLIED WATER-SNAKE + +STRIPED LENGTHWISE + +HARMLESS + +Poisonous and non-poisonous snakes.] + + +=Banded Rattlesnake= + +The mountains of Pennsylvania are a favorite resort of the rattlesnake, +but, though I have passed many summers in Pike County, famous for its +snakes, the only live one I ever saw in that locality was in a box at +Rowland station. The men of our party occasionally killed one and +brought it to camp as a trophy, but one of our weekend guests spent most +of his time hunting the rattler that he might take its skin back to the +city, yet without success. + +It is the banded rattlesnake that is usually found in Pennsylvania. The +color is yellowish and it is marked with irregular, wide bands of dark +brown. Sometimes the snake is almost black, and it is thought that it +turns dark with age. + + +=Diamond Rattlesnake= + +The rattlesnake marked in diamond patterns of gold outline on brown is +of the south and is oftenest found in Florida. This is a very large +snake, and closely allied to it is the Texas rattlesnake, which is the +same in markings and color, but paler, as if faded out. + + +=Massasauga= + +The massasauga is the rattlesnake occasionally found in the swamps from +western New York to Nebraska, but it is rare. Its color is light brown +with patches of dark brown its entire length. + + +=Copperhead= + +The copperhead is not a rattler, though its vibrating tail amid dry +leaves will sometimes hum like one. (This is also true of the +blacksnake.) Its bite is very poisonous. It is found amid rocks and in +the woods, and is at home from New England and the Atlantic coast west +to Indiana and south to Texas. This snake is seldom more than three +feet long. Its color is light reddish-brown with bands of rich chestnut +which are narrow on the back and wide at the sides. The underpart is +whitish with dark spots on the abdomen. The head is generally coppery in +color but not always. In Texas the colors of the copperhead are +stronger, the bands and head are decidedly reddish, and the bands have +narrow white borders. + + +=Harlequin Snake and Coral-Snake= + +The harlequin snake and the coral-snake are so similar in color and in +habits, one description for both will answer our purpose. They are +southern snakes, beginning in southern Indiana and extending south. They +are quite poisonous, but of such retiring habits as hardly to be classed +as dangerous. Most of their time is spent hidden under the sand and in +the ground, but when they do come out their colors are so brilliant as +not to be mistaken. On the harlequin snake the colors are bright +coral-red, yellow, and black, which alternate in stripes that encircle +the body. Its head is always banded with a broad yellow stripe. The +coral-snake is much the same in color, and only a close observer would +notice the difference. The coral-snake is also found in Arizona. + + +=Water-Moccasin, Cottonmouth= + +The water-moccasin is ugly, and ugly all the way through. Its deadly +viciousness is not redeemed by any outward beauty. Its average length is +three and a half feet, though it is occasionally longer. Its unlovely +body is thick and the color of greenish mud; the sides are paler and +have wide, blackish bands. There are dark bands from the eyes to the +mouth and above them there are pale streaks. The top of the head is very +dark. The abdomen is yellow with splashes of brown or black. Heavy +shields overhang the eyes and give a sinister expression to their angry +glare. When suddenly approached the moccasin opens wide its white-lined +mouth, and one then understands why it is called cottonmouth. + +This snake does not coil before its strikes, but vibrates its tail +slowly and watches its prey with mouth open. The moccasin is decidedly a +southern snake, and girls of the south know that its home is along the +edges of bayous and in the swamps. It is frequently seen with its head +and a small part of its body out of water while the rest is submerged, +but at times it will be found on a water-soaked log or on underbrush and +low boughs of trees that overhang the water. The bite is very poisonous. + + +=Other Snakes= + +There are many other snakes in the United States, but they are not +venomous. Here is one thing to remember: you need never fear a snake +found in this country which has _lengthwise stripes_, that is, stripes +running from head to tail. Daniel C. Beard tells me that he has learned +this from observation, and Raymond L. Ditmars, curator of reptiles in +the New York Zoological Park, agrees with him. + +While the lengthwise-striped snakes are harmless, others not striped in +this way are harmless, too. The blacksnake, though he looks an ugly +customer and, when cornered, will sometimes show fight, is not venomous +and his bite is not deep. It is, therefore, wanton cruelty to kill every +snake that crosses your path simply because it happens to be a snake. +Kephart, in his book of "Camping and Woodcraft," says in regard to +identifying the poisonous snake: + +"The rattlesnake, copperhead, and cottonmouth are easily distinguished +from all other snakes, as all three of them bear a peculiar mark, or +rather a pair of marks, that no other animal possesses. This mark is +the _pit_, which is a deep cavity on each side of the face between the +nostrils and the eye, sinking into the upper jaw-bone." + +If, when one has been bitten and the snake killed, an examination is +made of its head, it can be ascertained immediately whether the snake +was venomous, and in this way unnecessary fright may be avoided. + + +=Beaded Lizard, Gila Monster= + +The only other venomous reptile found in the United States is the beaded +lizard, called Gila monster (pronounced heela). Unless you visit the +desert regions of Arizona and New Mexico, you will not be apt to run +across this most interesting though poisonous reptile. + +The Gila monster looks very much like a unique piece of Indian beadwork, +with its fat body and stubby legs covered with bright-colored, bead-like +tubercles, which form almost a Navajo pattern. Its length is about +nineteen inches, and its beads are colored salmon, flesh-pink, white or +yellow, and black. Though it has the appearance of being stuffed with +cotton, it is really formidable and very much alive. Its jaws are +strong; when it bites it holds on like a bulldog, and there is no way to +force it to open its mouth except to pry the powerful jaws apart. While +otherwise slow of movement, it will turn quickly from side to side, +snapping viciously. The inside of the Gila's mouth is black, and when +angry it opens it wide and hisses. + + +=Treatment for Snake-Bites= + +If the unlikely should chance to happen and one of your party is bitten +by a poisonous snake, first aid should be given _immediately_, and if a +physician is within reach he should be summoned as quickly as possible. +Much depends, however, upon what is done first. Any one can administer +the following treatment, and it should be done without flinching, for it +may mean the saving of a life: + +(1) As soon as the person is bitten twist a tourniquet very tightly +above the wound, that is, between the wound and the heart, to keep the +poison as far as possible from entering the entire system. + +(2) Slash the wound or stab it with a _clean_ knife-blade and force it +to bleed copiously. If there is no break in the skin or membrane of your +mouth or lips and no cavity in any of your teeth, suck the wound to draw +out the poison. + +(3) Give a stimulant in small doses at frequent intervals to stimulate +the heart and lungs and strengthen the nerves, but avoid overdoing this, +for the result will be harmful. + +(4) If you have with you an antivenomous serum, inject it as directed by +the formula that accompanies it. + +Tie a loose bandage around the affected member, a handkerchief, neck +scarf, or even a rope for a tourniquet, to check circulation, as +described in Chapter XII, on Accidents. Every little while loosen the +tourniquet, then tighten it again, for it will not do to stop the +circulation entirely. + +All authorities do not advise sucking the wound, but it is generally +done, for with a perfectly sound and healthy mouth there is no danger, +as the poison enters the system only by contact with the blood. + +Some writers advocate cauterizing the wound with a hot iron; but, +whatever is done, do quickly, and _do not be afraid_. Fear is contagious +and exceedingly harmful to the patient. Remember that a snake-bite is +seldom fatal, and that a swollen arm or leg does not mean that the case +is hopeless. + + +=Poisonous Plants= + +There are two kinds of poisonous plants: those that are poison to the +touch and those that are harmless unless taken inwardly. Both may be +avoided when you learn to identify them. + + +=Poison-Ivy= + +We are apt to think that every one knows the common poison-ivy, but that +some people are not familiar with it was shown when one beautiful autumn +day a young woman passed along our village street carrying a handful of +the sprays of the vine, gathered probably because of their beautiful +coloring. Noticing that she was a stranger, no doubt from the city, and +realizing the danger she was running of poisoning herself or some one +else, we hurriedly caught up with her and gave first aid to the ignorant +in a few forceful remarks. The result was that, without a word, the +young woman simply opened her hand, dropped her vines on the walk, and +hurried off as if to escape a pestilence. We were left to close the +incident by kicking the stuff into the street that some other equally +uninformed person might not be tempted to pick it up. + +If you do not know the poison-ivy, remember this: It is the +_three-leaved ivy_. Its leaves always grow in triplets as shown in +illustration. The leaves are smooth, but not glossy; they have no teeth +but are occasionally notched. Sometimes the plant is bushy, standing a +foot or two high, again it is trailing or climbing. It loves fence +corners and big rocks to clamber over; it will also choose large trees +for support, climbing up to their tops. The flowers are whitish and the +fruit is a pretty, green-gray berry, round and smooth, which grows in +scant clusters. + +Poison-ivy is found through the country from Maine to Texas and west to +South Dakota, Utah, and Arkansas. + +Some people are immune to ivy poison and, happily, I belong to the +fortunate ones. Many persons are poisoned by it, however, and it may be +that fear makes them more susceptible. On some the painful, burning +eruption is difficult to cure. + + +=Poison-Oak= + +The poison-oak closely resembles the poison-ivy, and is sometimes called +by that name, but its leaves are differently shaped, being oval in +outline with a few coarse, blunt teeth. They are also thicker and +smaller than the ivy leaf. The poison-oak is plentiful in cool uplands +and in ravines, and is general throughout the Pacific coast from Lower +California and Arizona to British America. + + +=Poison-Sumach, or Swamp-Sumach= + +Another member of the same family is the poison-sumach. They are all +three equally poisonous and act by contact. The poison, or swamp, sumach +is a high, branching shrub closely resembling the harmless species which +grow on high, dry ground. The poison variety chooses low, wet places. +The leaves of the poison-sumach are compound, with from seven to +thirteen leaflets growing from one stem, as the leaves of the +walnut-tree grow; the stalks are often of a purplish color. The leaflets +are oval in shape and are pointed at the tip. The surface is smooth and +green on both sides and they have no teeth. The autumn coloring is very +brilliant. The flowers are whitish-green and grow in loose clusters from +a stiff middle stalk at the angles of the leaves. The fruit is a +gray-green berry growing in scant, drooping clusters. This _gray +drooping berry is the sumac poison sign_, for the fruit of the +harmless sumach is crimson and is held erect in close pyramidal +clusters. + +Witch-hazel (Pond's Extract) is used as a remedy for all of these +poisons, but it is claimed that a paste made of _cooking-soda_ and water +is better. Alcohol will sometimes be effective, also a strong lye made +of wood-ashes. Salt and water will give relief to some. It seems to +depend upon the person whether the remedy, as well as the poison, will +have effect. + +[Illustration: POISON IVY + +POISON SUMAC + +Plants poison to the touch.] + + +=Yellow Lady's-Slipper= + +Growing in bogs and low woods from Maine to Minnesota and Washington, +southward to Georgia and Missouri, there is a sweet-scented, little +yellow-and-brown flower called the yellow lady's-slipper, the plant of +which is said to have the same effect when handled as poison-ivy. This +flower is an orchid. The stalk, from one to two feet high, bears a +single blossom at the top, and the leaves, shaped and veined like those +of the lily-of-the-valley, grow alternately down the stem. The plant +does not branch. Like the ivy, the yellow lady's-slipper does not poison +every one. + +I know of no other wild plants that are poisonous to the touch; the +following will poison only if taken inwardly. + + +=Deadly Nightshade= + +To the nightshade family belong plants that are poisonous and plants +that are not, but the thrilling name, deadly nightshade, carries with it +the certainty of poison. + +The plant is an annual and you may often find it growing in a neglected +corner of the garden as well as in waste places. It is a tall plant; the +one I remember in our own garden reached to the top of a five-foot board +fence. Its leaves are rather triangular in shape, they are dark green +and the wavy edges are notched rather than toothed. The flowers are +white and grow in small clusters. The fruit is a berry, round, black, +and smooth, with calyx adhering to it. The berry clusters grow at the +end of drooping stems. This must not be mistaken for the high-bush +blueberry, for to eat the fruit would be most dangerous. + +The antidotes for nightshade poison are emetics, cathartics, and +stimulants. The poison should be thrown off the stomach first, then +strong coffee be given as a stimulant. + + +=Pokeweed, Pigeonberry= + +Pokeweed comes under the heading of poisonous plants though its berries +are eaten by birds, and its young shoots are said to be almost equal in +flavor, and quite as wholesome, as asparagus. It seems to be the large +perennial root that holds the poison, though some authorities claim that +the poison permeates the entire plant to a certain extent. The root is +sometimes mistaken for that of edible plants and the young leaves for +those of the marsh-marigold, which are edible when cooked. It is a tall +plant with a stout stem and emits a strong odor. You will find it +growing by the wayside and in rocky places. The leaves are oblong and +pointed at the tips and base. They have no teeth. The small white +flowers are in clusters. The fruit is a small, flat, dark-purple berry, +growing in long, upstanding clusters on a central stalk. The individual +stem of the berry is very short. The name inkberry was given to the +plant because of the strong stain of the berry juice which was sometimes +used for ink. Pokeweed is at home in various states, Maine to Minnesota, +Arkansas, and Florida. + + +=Poison-Hemlock= + +The poison-hemlock is well known historically, being in use at the time +of Socrates, and believed to have been administered to him by the +Greeks. It is quite as poisonous now as in Socrates's day, and +accidental poisoning has come from people eating the seeds, mistaking +them for anise-seed, eating the leaves for parsley and the roots for +parsnips. The plant grows from two to seven feet high; its stem is +smooth and spotted or streaked with purplish-red. It has large, +parsley-like leaves and pretty clusters of small, white flowers which +grow, stiff-stemmed, from a common centre and blossom in July and +August. When the fresh leaves are bruised they give out a distinctly +mouse-like odor and they are very nauseating to the taste. +Poison-hemlock is common on waysides and waste places in New York, West +Virginia, Pennsylvania, New Jersey, and Ohio. It is also found in New +England and Michigan, Wisconsin, Illinois, Louisiana, and California. + +The treatment recommended by professionals is emetics, warmth of hands +and feet, artificial respiration, and the subcutaneous injection of +atropine, administered by a physician. + + +=Water-Hemlock= + +Water-hemlock is similar in appearance and in effect. It is found in wet +places and on the borders of swamps. The remedies are the same as for +poison-hemlock. + +[Illustration: DEADLY NIGHTSHADE + +POKEWEED + +Plants poison to the taste.] + + +=Jimson-Weed= + +The jimson-weed is very common in Kentucky. I have not seen so much of +it in the east and north, but it appears to grow pretty nearly over the +whole United States. It is from one to five feet in height, and an +ill-smelling weed, though first cousin to the beautiful, cultivated +datura, which is a highly prized garden plant. The stem is smooth, +green, stout, and branching. The flower is large, sometimes four inches +long, and trumpet-shaped. There are several varieties of this weed; on +some the flower is white, on others the five, flaring, sharp-pointed +lobes are stained with lavender and magenta. The calyx is long, +close-fitting, and light green. The leaves are rather large; they are +angularly oval in shape and are coarsely notched. The fruit is a +prickly, egg-shaped capsule which contains the seeds. It is these seeds +which are sometimes eaten with serious results, and children have been +poisoned by putting the flowers in their mouths. + +Emetics should immediately be administered to throw the poison off the +stomach, then hot, strong coffee should be given. Sometimes artificial +respiration must be resorted to. In all cases of poisoning a physician +should be called if possible. + +The habit of chewing leaves and stems without knowing what they are +should be suppressed when on the trail. It is something like going +through a drug store and sampling the jars of drugs as you pass, and the +danger of poisoning is almost as great. + + +=Toadstools= + +Unless you are an expert in distinguishing non-poisonous mushrooms from +the poison toadstool, _leave them all alone_. Many deaths occur yearly +from eating toadstools which have been mistaken for the edible +mushrooms. + + + + +CHAPTER IX + +ON THE TRAIL WITH YOUR CAMERA + +=What to Photograph and How= + + +You cannot depend entirely upon your memory to recall the sights and +adventures of the trail, and will be only half-equipped if you go +without a camera and note-book. Several clicks of the camera will record +the principal events, while your note-book will fill in the detail. + + +=Selecting a Camera= + +In selecting a camera remember that every ounce in weight counts as two +when on the long trail, and that to have to carry it in your hand is +most troublesome and inconvenient. The folding camera, which can be hung +over your shoulder with a strap, is therefore the best; and do not try +to carry plates, they are too heavy. It is of little use to consult the +clerk of a photographic supply shop about the style of camera you should +buy. As a rule he is not chosen for his knowledge of the goods, and his +advice may be worse than none. The better plan is to secure descriptive +catalogues from dealer or manufacturer before investing, and study them +well. The catalogues will tell you the price, the size, the weight, and +_what kind of work_ each variety of camera will do, and you will learn +the advantages and limitations of many before deciding upon one. + + +=How to Know Your Camera= + +The camera once bought and in your hands, the next thing to do is to +become thoroughly acquainted with it. With your camera you are entitled +to a little book of instructions. Take your camera and the book, sit +down alone, and give them your entire attention. Read the book carefully +and, at the same time, carry out the instructions while the camera is +unloaded, that is, without the film. If the size of the diaphragm can be +changed, change it and look into the lens to see the effect; also try +adjusting the shutter and watch the lens for the effect of instantaneous +and time exposures. Try the focussing scale, locate some image in the +finder, and practise holding the camera pressed closely against your +body, pointing neither up nor down, tipping neither to one side nor the +other, but aimed directly at the object you are supposed to be +photographing. Then try turning the key which brings the film exposures +into position. + + +=Loading the Camera= + +Learn how to load and to unload, first without unrolling your film. +Afterward adjust the roll in the camera and see that it is properly +placed and will turn easily, before you loosen the end of the film. If +you detach the gummed paper which keeps the film tightly wrapped before +placing the roll in the camera, the whole film will spring loose from +its spool and become light-struck before you can adjust it. + + +=Count the Turns of the Key= + +With your first roll of films it is well to learn and remember the +number of turns you must give the key to bring a new exposure into +place. With my camera which takes a four-by-five picture, five turns of +the key are necessary between the exposures. Knowing this, I count, and +when the fifth turn is reached I complete it slowly, watching carefully +the while for the new number to appear in the little red celluloid +window. In this way, even when hurried or excited, I do not lose an +exposure by turning the key once too often. Always remember to place a +new exposure _directly after_ taking a picture, to make sure that you +will not take two on one film. In making ready for a new subject count +again, for there are four things one must be sure of with most cameras +before taking a photograph, and by counting you will know if any have +been omitted: + + (1) See that a fresh exposure is in place. + + (2) See that the shutter is properly adjusted for + instantaneous (or time) exposure. + + (3) See that diaphragm stop is set at the proper + opening for the light you will have. + + (4) See that the distance is correctly focussed. + +There are cameras, however, that are of universal focus and do not need +adjustment. These are convenient ones for the trail, as they are always +ready and can be used quickly. Being small, they are also light to +carry. + + +=Be Economical with Your Films= + +A very important thing to learn when taking photographs is to be +economical with your films, and especially is this so when on the trail, +for your supply is then necessarily limited. Merely for the sake of +using the new toy, many amateurs will photograph subjects that are not +of the slightest interest to any one, and very often, when a scene or +object does present itself that is well worth while, all the films will +have been wasted and no picture can be taken. + + +=Plan Your Pictures to Illustrate Your Trip= + +It is a good idea to plan your pictures so that they will illustrate +your trip from beginning to end. A snap-shot of your party starting on +the trail, another of the country through which you pass, with, perhaps, +one or two figures in it, and the remainder of the films used on objects +of interest found on the way. If you can secure pictures of any wild +animals you may see, they will make the series doubly interesting and +valuable. When you go into camp a view of the camp should be included. +When the pictures are printed write on the back of each what it +represents, where taken, and the date; they will then be valuable data +as well as trustworthy reminders. + + +=Backgrounds= + +Look for the best view of a subject before using your camera; there is +always a choice. One side may be much more pleasing or more +characteristic than the other, or may show interesting details more +plainly. If you have studied drawing you will be able also to find the +view which makes the best composition. The background, too, must be +considered, and the position of the sun. The simpler the background the +better. Near-by foliage is not good for figures; it is too confused and +the figures will mingle with it. Sometimes the adjustable portrait-lens, +which can be slipped over the other, will obviate that trouble by +blurring everything not in exact focus, and this lens will allow you to +stand nearer the object and so make it larger on the film. It is not +intended for distant views and the camera should not be more than six +feet from the subject when it is used. + +[Illustration: The white birch-tree makes a fine background for the +beaver.] + +Quiet water makes an excellent background, also distant foliage and +hills, flat fields and meadows. These may be obtained for figures, but +often the very things you want to photograph most are in the woods with +foliage close to and all around them; then you must simply do the best +you can under the circumstances. + + +=Color Values in Photographs= + +Another thing to remember is that, unless in broad sunlight, green will +take dark and sometimes black; and brown or tan, being of the same color +value in the photograph, will mingle with and often be lost in the +background. If you are photographing a tawny animal, and most wild +animals are tawny, try to get it when in the sunlight with a dark or +flat background, or else against a background lighter in color than the +animal. For instance, a red squirrel or chipmunk will be lost amid, or +against, the foliage of a tree, but on a fence rail or fallen log it +will stand out distinctly. + +If you have a chance at a beaver it will be near the water, of course. +Then the choice view will be where the water can form at least part of +the background. If the shore is at the back it may be difficult when the +print is made to find the beaver at all. In the interesting photograph +shown here the beaver is against the light trunk of the tree which shows +where he has gnawed it almost through. In all this the position of the +sun must be taken into account, but the rule of always having the sun at +your back, like most other rules, has its exceptions. I have found that +so long as the sun lights up the object, even when from one side, I can +secure a good picture; but I never allow it to strike the lens of the +camera, and I make sure that the subject is not silhouetted against its +background by having all the light at its back. + +[Illustration: Blacktail deer snapped with a background of snow.] + + +=Photographing Wild Animals= + +It is not easy to photograph wild animals after you have found them, but +you can do it if you are quick to see and to act and are also patient +enough to wait for a good opportunity. You will often find deer feeding +in sunlit places and can, if you stalk them carefully, approach near +enough to get a good shot. If they happen to be in partial or light +shadow, open the diaphragm of your camera at its widest stop and try for +an instantaneous exposure. Very good photographs are sometimes taken by +that method, and it is worth the experiment where time exposures are out +of the question, as in taking moving animals. A snap-shot will be of no +avail if the shadow is heavy, however, and a short time exposure may +sometimes be used. Set your time lever at No. 1, which means one second, +and the lever controlling the diaphragm at No. 16, and by pressing the +bulb once you will have a time exposure of one second. An important +thing for you to realize in taking animal photographs is the fact that +though the creature may seem quite near as you see it with your natural +eye, in the picture it will occupy only the relative space that it does +on the finder. If it covers a quarter of the space on the finder it will +cover a quarter, no more and no less, of the finished photograph. + +The wonderful pictures we see of wild animals are usually the work of +professionals who have especially adapted cameras; but to take the +photograph oneself makes even a poor one of more value. + +[Illustration: The skunk. + +Don't get too near when you try to photograph him.] + + +=Shutter Speed= + +To photograph objects in rapid motion such as flying birds, the speed of +your shutter must be at least one three-hundredths of a second and you +must have a fast lens; but with a shutter speed of one one-hundredth I +have taken very good pictures of things moving at a moderate rate. A +walking or slowly running animal, for instance, can be taken with a +shutter speed of one one-hundredth. You should find out the speed of the +shutter when you buy your camera, then you will not throw away films on +things beyond its possibilities. "You press the button and we'll do the +rest" doesn't work where moving objects are concerned. + +Those who go a-gunning with the camera, stalk their game as carefully as +any hunter with a gun, and for really good results the following method +is the safest to adopt. Time and patience are required, but one does not +mind giving these, the interest is so absorbing and the successful +picture so well worth while. + + +=Set Your Camera Like a Trap= + +Find the spot frequented by the animal or bird you are after, wait for +it to go away of its own accord while confident and unfrightened, then +set up your camera like a trap where the lens will point to the place +the bird or animal will probably occupy upon its return. + +If it is a nest it will be easy, for you can be sure the bird will come +back there and can adjust your camera to take in the entire nest. Where +there is no nest, sight your camera upon some object between which and +the lens the creature must come in order to be within focus, and trample +down any undergrowth that may obstruct the view. Make sure that your +focus is correct for the distance and that the film will take in the +whole animal. You can provide for this by staking off the probable size +of the animal at the place where you expect it to stand, and then +looking in the finder to see if both stakes are in focus. You will +probably have to raise the camera from the ground and perhaps tip it a +little. For this a low tripod is best but if you haven't that, and very +likely you will not, a convenient log, stump, or stone will answer the +purpose. If even these are not handy you can build up a stand of stones +or small logs, or pile earth into a mound. Whatever material you use, +the stand must be made strong and firm. To have it slip or slide is to +lose the picture. Make your camera perfectly secure and immovable on the +stand, then tie a long cord to the release (the small lever which works +the shutter). The cord must be amply long enough to reach to the ambush +where you will hide while awaiting your game. The ambush may be a clump +of bushes, a convenient rock, or a tree behind which you will be +concealed. If there is no such cover near you can make one of brush and +branches. When the cord is carried from the camera to the ambush hide +the camera with leafy branches, leaving a good opening for the cord to +pass through to prevent it from becoming entangled. Then hie to your +cover and, with the slightly slack cord in your hand, await the coming +of your game. + +[Illustration: The porcupine stood in the shade but the background was +light.] + + +=Taking the Picture= + +As the animal approaches the camera grasp your cord firmly and steady +your nerves to act quickly, and when it is in focus, not before, give a +quick, firm pull to the cord, releasing it immediately, and the thing is +done. Don't become excited at the critical moment and make your shot too +soon or jerk the cord too hard. If a bird is to be taken upon the nest +and the nest is in shadow a short time exposure can be given, or a bulb +exposure. For bulb exposure set the lever that controls the shutter at +_B_ (meaning bulb), and the lever controlling the diaphragm at No. 16. +When the bird has settled upon its nest pull the cord, count three +slowly, and release it. The shutter will remain open as long as the cord +is held taut and will close when released. This method cannot be used +for long time exposures. When you become more practised in the art of +wild-life photography you will know how much time to allow for the +exposures. There will be some failures, of course, but one good +photograph among several will repay you for all your trouble and will +make you keen to try again. + +[Illustration: Photographing a woodcock from ambush.] + + +=Photographing the Trail= + +You can get a good picture of the trail with a snap-shot when it is in +the open, but a forest trail must have time exposure. When your eyes +have become accustomed to the dim light of the woods it will not seem +dark, and you will be tempted to try a snap-shot because it is easier, +but if you do you may certainly count that a lost film. It is not +possible to hold your camera in your hands and succeed with a time +exposure of over one second. The beating of your heart will jar it, a +breath will make it move, so some kind of a rest must be found as when +taking the animals with bulb exposure. If the light is very dim first +set the lever controlling the shutter at the point _T_ (time), then set +the lever for the diaphragm at No. 16, press the bulb, and allow from +fifteen to twenty seconds', or even thirty seconds', exposure. + + +=Timing Without a Watch= + +You can time it without a watch by counting in this way: +one-and-two-and-three-and-up to the number of seconds required. One-and +is one second. + +[Illustration: The country through which you pass, with a trailer in the +foreground.] + +When the seconds have been counted, press the bulb again and if the +camera has not moved you should have a good negative. No hard-and-fast +rules can be given for this work because conditions vary; you must +rely some on your judgment and learn by experience. It is said that +overexposure is better than underexposure and can be handled better in +developing the films, so when in doubt it is well to allow a little more +time than you think should be necessary. Curious results sometimes come +from underexposed films. I once had a print in outline, like a drawing, +from a negative made in the Rocky Mountains. It did not look in the +least like a photograph, there were no shadows, but it was a good +illustration of the scene. + + +=Photographing Flowers and Ferns= + +If your camera will focus so that you can place it near enough to take +small objects such as flowers and ferns, another field of interest is +open to you and you can add a record of those found on the trail to +complete your series. A camping trip will afford better and more +unhurried opportunities for photographing flowers than a one day's +trail, unless you carry a box or basket with you for securing specimens +that you can take back and photograph at leisure. Do not break the stems +of the flowers or plants, take them roots and all. Loosen the soil all +around and under the roots so that which clings to the plant may be +undisturbed and taken up with it. If the soil falls away, cover the root +with damp loam or mud and tie it up in a large leaf as in illustration. +This method not only keeps it from wilting but will enable you to take a +picture of the growing plant with all its interesting characteristics. +If you put your plant with its clod of earth in a _shallow_ bowl, pour +in as much water as the bowl will hold, and keep it always full, it will +remain fresh and vigorous a long while and may be transplanted to +continue its life and growth after you have finished with it. + +[Illustration: METHOD OF PROTECTING ROOTS TO KEEP PLANTS FRESH WHILE YOU +CARRY THEM TO CAMP FOR PHOTOGRAPHING + +MUD AROUND THE ROOTS + +WRAPPED IN LEAVES] + +Just here must come the caution not to tear up wild plants by their +roots unless they are to serve a real purpose. Some of our most +beautiful wild flowers and rarest ferns are now in danger of being +exterminated because of thoughtless and careless people who, in +gathering them, will not even take the trouble to break the stems. When +the roots are gone there will be no more flowers and ferns. + + +=Look at the Date on Your Film= + +Even the best photographer cannot take good photographs unless he has +good films. On the box of every roll of films is stamped the latest date +when it may be safely developed and it is foolish to try to have a film +developed after that date has passed. When you buy your films be sure +they are fresh ones and that the date insures you ample time; one year +ahead is none too long. + +Do not open the box or take the wrappings from a roll of films until you +are ready to load your camera. Then save both box and wrappings, and +when your films have been exposed, use them for covering the roll again. +Keep the wrapped and boxed rolls in a dark place until they can be +developed. Dampness will spoil both films and plates. If you are in a +damp climate, or on shipboard, keep them in a tin box, tightly closed. + + + + +CHAPTER X + +ON AND IN THE WATER + +=Boats Safe and Unsafe. Canoeing. Rowing. Poling. Raft-Making. Swimming. +Fishing= + + +=Safe and Unsafe Boats= + +One seldom goes on the long trail, or into camp, without encountering +water, and boats of some kind must be used, generally rowboats or +canoes. The safest boat on placid water is the heavy, flat-bottomed +rowboat with oars secured to the oar-locks. In my younger days we owned +such a boat, and no one felt in the least anxious when I would put off +for hours alone on the lake at our camp in Pike County, Pa.; especially +as the creaking turn of the oar-locks could easily be heard at camp +loudly proclaiming that I still lived, while I enjoyed the luxury of +solitary adventure. But a tub of this kind is not adapted to all waters +and all purposes, and the safest boat on any water is the one best +adapted to it and to the purpose for which the boat is used. + +Round-bottomed boats tip easily and should, therefore, not be used when +learning to row, though they are safe enough in the hands of those +accustomed to their management. The best of oarsmen, however, cannot +prevent her boat from capsizing if her passenger does not know how to +enter or leave it, or to sit still when aboard. + +[Illustration: A rowboat is a safer craft than a canoe.] + + +=Stepping in and out of a Boat= + +To step on the gunwale (the edge of the boat) will naturally tip it and +most likely turn it over. One should always step directly into the +_middle_ in order to keep the boat evenly balanced, and in getting out, +step _from_ the middle. Stepping on the side or the gunwale of a boat +shows the ignorance of a tenderfoot. There are rowboats that are neither +round-bottomed nor flat but are shaped like the boat in photograph, page +206. These are safer than the round-bottomed, but are more easily +capsized than the flat-bottomed boats. + + +=Canoes and Canoeing= + +If you are to own a canoe select it carefully; consult catalogues of +reliable dealers, and, if possible, have an experienced and good +canoeist help you choose it. The pretty canoe made of wood will answer +in calm waters and wear well with careful usage, but sportsmen prefer +the canvas-covered canoe, declaring it the best boat for cruising, as it +is light, easy to manage, will stand rough usage, and will also carry +greater loads. The best make has a frame of hardwood with cedar ribs and +planking; spruce gunwales and brass bang-plates to protect the ends. +This canoe is covered with strong canvas, treated with some kind of +filler, and then painted and varnished. There are usually two cane +seats, one at the stern, the other near the bow. These are built in. +Canoes vary in the shape of the bow, some being higher than others. The +high bow prevents the shipping of too much water, but will also offer +resistance to the wind and so impede the progress of the boat. A medium +high bow is the best. + +One firm of camp-outfitters advertises a canoe called the Sponson, the +name being taken from the air-chambers built along the outside rail, +which are called sponsons. It is claimed that these air-chambers make it +next to impossible to upset the canoe, and that even when filled with +water it will support a heavy weight. Sponsons can also be purchased +separately and can be adjusted to any sized canoe. + +[Illustration: Keep your body steady.] + +For a novice the sponsons would seem a good thing, as they not only +insure safety but, in doing away with the fear of an upset, make +learning to paddle easier. Then there are the guide canoes made +especially for hunting and fishing. They are strong, flat-bottomed, will +carry a heavy load, are easy to paddle or pole, and will stand rough +water. These canoes are good for general use on the trail. + +The prices of a _good_ canoe range from twenty-eight dollars to forty +dollars. One may go higher, of course, but the essentials of the canoe +will be no better. A lower price means, as a rule, not so good a boat. + + +=Paddles= + +Girls and women generally require shorter paddles than men, as they do +not have the same reach of arm, and you can take your choice of lengths. +For the stern the paddle should be longer than for the bow. Paddles are +made of red oak, maple, ash, spruce, and cherry. Some authorities prefer +spruce for ordinary usage, but in rough water and in shooting rapids a +harder wood is best. The weak part of a paddle is where the blade joins +the handle, and this part should not be too slender. If you use spruce +paddles keep them smooth by trimming away all roughness and keep them +well shellacked, else they may become water-soaked. Paddles range in +price from one dollar and fifty cents to three dollars. + +[Illustration: Canoeing on placid waters.] + + +=Accessories= + +A strong, healthy girl will no more need cushions and canoe-chairs than +a boy, but a back rest is not always to be despised. It is well to +have a large sponge aboard for bailing and for cleaning. + +At a portage or "carry," the canoe is carried overland on the shoulders, +and though some guides scorn to use a carrier, others are glad of them. +There are several styles, one being the neck-yoke carrier, another the +pneumatic canoe-yoke. The pneumatic yoke, when not inflated with air, +can be rolled into a bundle three by six inches, and when inflated it +can also be used for a canoe-seat, a camp-seat, and even for a pillow. +Its weight is two pounds and the catalogue price is three dollars and +twenty-five cents. + + +=Care of the Canoe= + +Even the strongest canoe should be well cared for. To leave it in the +water for any length of time, when not in use, is to run the risk of +damage and loss. A sudden storm will batter it against shore, send it +adrift, or fill and sink it. A canoe should always be _lifted_, not +dragged, ashore, and it should be turned upside down on the bank with a +support in the middle so that it will not be strained by resting only on +the ends. + + +=Getting in the Canoe= + +Never allow any one to get into your canoe or to sit on it when it is +out of the water. That is harder on it than many days of actual use. +When you are to get aboard your canoe, bring it up broadside to the +shore and put one foot exactly in the middle, then carefully place the +other beside it and sit down quickly, but with care to keep your +balance. If there is no one to hold the canoe for you, use your paddle +to steady yourself by pushing it down to the bottom on the side away +from shore. This will keep the canoe from slipping away from under you +while you are stepping in. One of the first things to learn in +canoeing is to preserve your balance; even a slight lurch to one side or +the other must be avoided. Make every necessary movement cautiously and +do not look backward unless absolutely necessary. Never attempt to +change places with any one while in the canoe. If the change must be +made, land and change there. + +[Illustration: Bring your canoe up broadside to the shore.] + + +=Upset= + +Should there be an upset keep hold of your paddle, it will help to keep +you afloat, then if you can reach your craft and hold to it without +trying to climb upon it you can keep your head above water until help +arrives or until you can tread water to shore. If you can swim you are +comparatively safe, and a girl who goes often on the trail should, by +all means, be a swimmer. + + +=Paddling= + +Some expert canoeists strongly advise kneeling in the bottom of the +canoe while paddling, for at least part of the time, but the usual +method is to sit on the seats provided at bow and stern, or sit on the +bottom. The kneeling paddler has her canoe in better control, and +becomes more one with it than one who sits. In shooting rapids and in +rough weather kneeling is the safest when one knows how to paddle in +that position. It is a good thing to learn both methods. + +When you paddle close one hand firmly on the end of the paddle and the +other around the handle a short distance above the blade. Then, keeping +your body steady, dip your paddle into the water slightly in front of +you and sweep it backward and downward toward the stern, keeping it +close to the canoe. You face the bow in a canoe, remember, and reach +forward for your stroke. At the finish of a stroke turn the paddle +edgewise and slide it out of the water. For the next stroke bring the +blade forward, swinging it horizontally with the blade parallel to the +water, and slide it edgewise into the water again in front of you. Fig. +34 shows the beginning of a stroke, Fig. 35 while the stroke is in +progress, and Fig. 36 the ending. During the stroke bring your upper +hand forward across your face or breast, and with the lower draw the +blade through the water. + +It is well to begin as bow paddler, for your duty there, in smooth +water, is to watch for obstructions such as hidden rocks and submerged +logs or snags, while the paddler at the stern must steer the canoe and +keep it in a straight course. + +At the beginning learn to paddle as well from one side as from the +other. To be able to change sides is very restful and sometimes a quick +change will prevent an accident. Like many other things, the knack of +paddling will come with experience and will then require no more thought +than keeping your balance on a bicycle and steering it. + + +=Loading a Canoe= + +A top-heavy canoe is decidedly dangerous, that is why it is safest to +sit or kneel on the bottom, and in loading your camp stuff bear the fact +well in mind. Pack the load as low in the canoe as possible with the +heaviest things at the bottom, but use common sense and do not put +things that should be kept dry underneath where any water that is +shipped will settle and soak them. Think again and put cooking utensils +and lunch provender where you can reach them without unloading the +canoe. The packing should be done in such a way as to cause the canoe +to tip neither at one end or at the other, and certainly not to one +side. + +[Illustration: 34 36 + +35 How to use the paddle and a flat-bottomed rowboat.] + + +=Rowing= + +A rowboat is a safer craft than a canoe, and rowing is not a difficult +feat, but there is a difference between the rowing of a heavy +flat-bottomed boat and rowing a light skiff or round-bottomed rowboat. +In rowing properly one's body does most of the work and the strain comes +more on the muscles of the back than on those of the arms. + +In paddling you face the bow of the canoe; in rowing you are turned +around and face the stern of your boat. In paddling you reach forward +and draw your paddle back; in rowing you lean back and pull your oars +forward. When beginning a stroke grasp the handles of your oars firmly +near the ends, lean forward with arms outstretched and elbows straight, +the oars slanting backward, and, by bearing down on the handles of the +oars, lift the blades above the water. Then drop them in edgewise and +pull, straightening your body, bending your elbows, and bringing your +hands together one above the other. As you finish the stroke bear down +on your oars to lift the blades out of the water again, turn your wrists +to bring the flat of the blades almost parallel with the water but with +the back edge lifted a little; then bend forward and, sweeping the oars +backward, turning the edge down, plunge them in the water for another +pull. Turning the wrists at the beginning of a stroke feathers the oar, +the forward edge of which is sometimes allowed to skim lightly over the +surface of the water as the oar is carried backward. In steering with +the oars you pull hardest on the oar on the side _opposite_ to the +direction you wish to take. A little practise and all this comes easy +enough. + +The thing for a beginner to avoid is "catching a crab." That is, +dipping the oars so lightly in the water as not to give sufficient hold, +which will cause them, when pulled forward, to fly up and send the rower +sprawling on her back. In dipping too deeply there is danger of losing +an oar by the suction of the water. Experience will teach the proper +depth for the stroke. + +On some of the Adirondack lakes the round-bottomed rowboats are used +almost exclusively, but the boat with a narrow, flat bottom is safer and +is both light and easy to row. A cedar rowboat is the most desirable. +The oars should be light for ordinary rowing yet strong enough to +prevent their snapping above the blade in rough water. + + +=Rafts= + +You can never tell just what will happen when you go on the long trail, +that is one of its charms, nor do you know what you will be called upon +to do. The girl best versed in the ways of the water as well as of the +woods is surest of safety, and can be most helpful to her party. +Possibly you may never be called upon to build a raft, and again an +emergency may arise when a raft will not only be convenient but +absolutely necessary. When such an emergency does come it is not likely +that you will have anything besides the roughest of building material +and no tools besides your small axe or hatchet. But with your axe you +can chop off limbs of sufficient size for the raft from fallen trees, +and with ropes made of the inner bark of trees you can bind your small +logs together in such a way as to hold them firmly. Do not use green +wood, it will not float like the dry. Logs about twelve inches in +diameter are the best, but half that size will make a good raft. Six +feet by twelve is a fair size. The smaller the logs the larger the raft +must be in order to carry any weight, for it must cover a wider surface +of water than is necessary for one made of large logs. One good-sized +log will carry your weight easily, but a small one will sink beneath +you. + +If you have two long, strong ropes you can use them for binding the logs +together; if not you must make the ropes from fibre of some kind. Daniel +C. Beard in his book, "Boat-Building and Boating," tells of making a +very strong rope of the inner bark of a chestnut-tree which had been +killed by fire. The fibre torn off in long strips must be twisted by two +persons, or one end may be tied to a branch while you twist the other. +When two are twisting one person takes one end, the other takes the +other end, and, standing as far apart as possible, each twists the fibre +between her fingers, turning it in opposite directions until when held +slack it will double on itself and make a double twist. The ends are +then brought together and the rope kept from snarling until it is bent +at the middle and allowed to double twist evenly all the way to the end. +The fibre rope will be a little less than _half_ the length of the +original strands, and it should be about the size of heavy clothes-line +rope. The short lengths of rope must be tied together to make two long +ropes. Use the square knot in tying to make sure that it will not slip. +When the knot is wet it will be quite secure. + +[Illustration: The raft of logs.] + + +=Primitive Weaving Method= + +For tying the logs together use the primitive weaving method. Lay three +lengths of rope on the ground, one for the middle and one each for the +ends of the logs. Roll one log along the ropes until it rests across the +middle of each rope, then turn each rope over the log, forming a bight +as in Fig. 37. Bring the lower rope over the upper (Fig. 38) to form a +loop, and turn it back over the log (Fig. 39). This leaves the log with +three loops of rope around it, one end of each rope lying on the +ground, the other end turned back over the log. Now roll another log +over the lower ropes up close to the first log (Fig. 40). Bring down the +upper ropes over the second log (Fig. 41), cross the lower ropes _over_ +the upper ones and turn them back (Fig. 42). Draw the ropes tight and +push the logs as closely together as possible; unless your logs are +straight there will be wide spaces between. Roll the third log over the +lower ropes and make the weaving loop as with the other two, _always_ +crossing the lower rope _over_ the upper (Fig. 43). Continue weaving in +new logs until the raft is the required width, then tie the ends of the +ropes around the last log. Remember to keep the ropes on the ground +always in a straight line without slanting them, otherwise the sides of +your raft will not be at right angles to the ends, and it will be a +crazily built affair, cranky and difficult to manage. + +Chop notches on the outside logs where the ropes are to pass over them, +and they will keep the rope from slipping out of place (Fig. 44). Cut +two, more slender, logs for the ends of the raft and lash them on across +the others as in Fig. 45. The end logs should extend a little beyond +each side of the raft. Fasten a rope with a strong slip knot to one end +of the cross log and wrap it over the log and under the first lengthwise +log, then over and under again to form a cross on top. When the rope is +under the second time bring it up between the second and third log, then +down between the third and fourth log, and so on to the end, when you +must make a secure fastening. These cross logs give additional strength, +keep the raft in shape, and prevent its shipping too much water. + +If you will make a miniature raft, following these directions carefully, +when the time comes for you to build a full-sized one you will be quite +familiar with the method of construction and will know exactly how to go +about it. + +[Illustration: 37 38 39 + +40 41 42 + +43 + +44 + +45 + +Primitive weaving in raft building.] + +For the little raft use small, straight branches about twelve inches +long. Twist your slender rope of fibre if you can get it, of string if +you cannot, and weave it around the sticks just as you would weave the +rope around the logs, finishing off with the two end sticks for the end +logs. + + +=Poling= + +If you have a raft you must know how to pole it, and at times it is +necessary to pole other kinds of craft. Select a straight pole of +strong, green wood eight feet or more in length. The length of the pole +will depend upon the depth of the water, for it must be long enough to +reach bottom. Trim off all the small branches and make it as smooth as +possible. + +When the water is deep and calm a pole may sometimes be used as a paddle +to send the raft along, but its real purpose is to push from the bottom. +In poling you must necessarily stand near the edge of the raft and must +therefore be careful not to lean too far over the water lest you lose +your balance and fall in. + +Poling is a primitive, go-as-you-please method of propelling a craft and +is almost free from rules except those suggested by the common sense of +the poler. Like the early pioneers, you simply do the best you can under +the circumstances and are alert to take advantage of every element in +your favor. Where there is a current you pole for it and then allow your +raft to float with it, provided it goes in the direction you wish to +take and is not too swift. In this case you use your pole for steering, +which may sometimes be done from the stern, making a rudder of the pole, +at others from the side, and at times reaching down to the river bed. If +the current runs the wrong way be careful to keep out of it as much as +possible. + +Shallow water near the shore is usually the most quiet and the safest +for a raft. Here you can generally pole your raft up-stream when the +water is deep enough to float it and is not obstructed by rocks, logs, +or snags. A raft is not safe where there is a swift current, and there +should always be strong arms to manage it. + + +=Swimming= + +If you will realize that your body is buoyant, not a dead weight in the +water, and that swimming should come as naturally to you as to the wild +creatures, it may help you to gain the confidence so essential in +learning to swim. If you are not afraid of the water you will not +struggle while in it, and the air in your lungs will keep you afloat +while you learn to make the movements that will carry you along. You +will not sink if you are quite calm and move only your hands _under_ +water with a slight paddling movement. Keep in mind that every inch +above water but adds so much to the weight to sink you lower. To throw +up your arms is the surest way of going straight to the bottom. Do not +be afraid to allow the water to come up and partially cover your chin. + +All sorts of contrivances have been invented to keep a person afloat +while learning to swim, but they all tend to take from, rather than to +give confidence, for it is natural to depend entirely upon them and to +feel helpless when they are taken away. According to my own experience +the best method is to have a friend place a hand under your chin while +her feet are touching bottom and to walk with you while you learn to +make the swimming movements. This will keep your head above water and +give you a sense of security, and you will then strike out confidently. +The support rendered is so slight you learn to manage your own weight in +the water almost immediately, while you have the feeling that some one +upholds you, and the friendly hand may be withdrawn at intervals to +allow you to try entirely alone. + +You see that after all it is the _feeling_ of being supported more than +the actual support that counts, and if you can convince yourself that +you need no support you won't need it. It is best to start by swimming +_toward_ land instead of away from it. To know that you are not going +beyond your depth but are gaining the shore is a great help in +conquering fear. + + +=Movements in Swimming= + +If you are learning alone, begin in quiet, shallow water only deep +enough to float you; waist-high is sufficiently deep. Assume the first +position for swimming by throwing your body forward with arms extended +and palms of hands together, at the same time lifting your feet from the +bottom with a spring. This should bring your body out perfectly straight +in the water, feet together and arms ready for the first movement. + +Now separate your hands, turn them palm outward, and swing your arms +around in a half-circle until they extend straight out from the sides, +pushing the water back with your hands. In the second movement bend your +elbows and bring them down with palms of hands together under your chin, +and at the same time draw your legs up under your body with knees and +feet still held close together. The third movement is to send your arms +shooting straight ahead, while your legs, separating, describe a +half-circle and your feet pushing against the water force you forward +and then come together again in the first position. + +This is a point to be remembered: always thrust your hands forward, to +open the way, and your feet back, to push yourself through it, at the +_same time_. It is like a wire spring being freed at both ends at once, +each end springing away from the middle. When you push the spring +together, that is, when in taking the second movement you draw in your +hands and feet, do it slowly; then take the third movement--letting the +spring out--quickly, thrusting out your hands in front and your feet at +the back with a sudden movement, pushing your feet strongly against the +water and stretching yourself out as far as you can reach. + +[Illustration: THE FRIENDLY HAND UNDER YOUR CHIN WILL GIVE YOU +CONFIDENCE + +LEARN TO TREAD WATER FOR SAFETY + +Learn to be at home in the water.] + + +=Floating= + +Some people can float who cannot swim. Others can swim but are not able +to float. That is, they think they are not and do not seem willing to +try, but it is quite necessary every one should know how to rest in the +water, and learning to float is very essential. + +The hand of a friend will help you in this as in learning to swim, but +for floating it is held under the back of your head instead of under +your chin. Lie on your back with legs straight before you, feet +together, arms close at your sides, and head thrown back; trust the +water to bear you up and all that is necessary to keep you afloat is a +rotary motion of your hands _under_ water. After a time all movement may +be given up and you will lie easily and quietly as on a bed. It is said +that it is easier for women and girls to float than for men, because +their bones are lighter, and some learn to float the first time they +enter the water; all of which is very encouraging to girls. Breathe +deeply but naturally while floating, for the more air there is in your +lungs the more buoyant will be your body and the higher it will float. +If your body is inclined to roll from side to side spread out your arms +_under_ water until you steady yourself. If your feet persist in sinking +extend your arms above your head _under_ water and this will maintain +the balance. + +Do not try to lift your head, but keep it well back in the water. If +your nose and mouth are out that is all that is necessary. Let your +muscles relax and lie limply. + +To regain your feet after floating bring your arms in front and pull on +the water with scooped hands while raising your body from the hips. + + +=Diving= + +You will learn to dive merely for the joy of the quick plunge into cool +waters, but there are times when to understand diving may mean the +saving of your own or some one else's life, and no matter how suddenly +or unexpectedly you are cast into the water by accident, you will retain +your self-possession and be able to strike out and swim immediately. + +One should never dive into unknown water if it can be avoided, but as on +the trail all water is likely to be unknown, investigate it well before +diving and look out for hidden rocks. Do not dive into shallow water; +that is dangerous. If you are to dive from the bank some distance above +the water, stand on the edge with your toes reaching over it. Extend +your arms, raise them, and duck your head between with your arms, +forming an arch above, your ears covered by your arms. Lock your thumbs +together to keep your hands from separating when they strike the water. +Bend your knees slightly and spring from them, but straighten them +immediately so that you will be stretched full length as you enter the +water. As soon as your body is in the water curve your back inward, lift +your head up, and make a curve through the water to the surface. + + +=Breathing= + +Breathe through your nose always when swimming as well as when walking. +To open your mouth while swimming is usually to swallow a pint or two of +water. Exhale your breath as you thrust your hands forward, inhale it as +you bring them back. "Blow your hands from you." + + +=Treading Water= + +In treading water you maintain an upright position as in walking. Some +one says: "To tread water is like running up-stairs rapidly." Try +running up-stairs and you will get the leg movement. While the water is +up to your neck, bend your elbows and bring your hands to the surface, +then keep the palms pressing down the water. The principle is the same +as in swimming. When you swim you force the water back with your hands +and feet and so send your body forward. When you tread water you force +the water _down_ with your hands and feet and so send your body, or keep +it, up. + +It is even possible to stand quite still in deep water when you learn to +keep your balance. All you do is to spread out your arms at the sides on +a line with your shoulders and keep your head well back. You may go +below the surface once or twice until you learn, but you will come up +again and the feat is well worth while. What an outdoor girl should +strive for is to become thoroughly at home in the water so that she may +enter it fearlessly and know what to do when she is there. + +[Illustration: For dinner.] + + +=Fishing= + +Just here would seem to be the place to talk of fishing, but I am not +going to try to tell you how to fish; that would take a volume, there +are so many kinds of fish and so many ways of fishing. One way is to cut +a slender pole, tie a fish-line on the small end, tie a fish-hook to the +end of the line, bait it with an angleworm, stand on the bank, drop the +hook and bait into the water, and await results. Another way is to put +together a delicate, quivering fishing-rod, carefully select a "fly," +adjust it, stand on the bank, or in a boat, and "cast" the fly far out +on the water with a dexterous turn of the wrist. You may catch fish in +either way, but in some cases the pole and angleworm is the surest. + +A visitor stood on the bank of our Pike County lake and skilfully sent +his fly skimming over the water while the boy of the family, catching +perch with his home-cut pole and angleworms, was told to watch and +learn. He did watch politely for a while, then turned again to his own +affairs. Once more some one said: "Look at Mr. J., boy, and learn to +cast a fly." But the boy, placidly fishing, returned: "I'd rather know +how to catch fish." It was true the boy had caught the fish and the +skilful angler had not. All of which goes to prove that if it is fish +you want, just any kind of fish and not the excitement of the sport, a +pole like the boy's will probably be equal to all requirements. But +there are black bass in the lake, and had one of them been in that +particular part of it, no doubt the fly would have tempted him, and the +experience and skill of Mr. J. supplemented by his long, flexible rod, +his reel and landing net, would have done the rest, while the boy had +little chance of such a bite and almost none of landing a game fish like +the bass. + +[Illustration: The veteran.] + +If you want to fish, and every girl on the trail should know how, take +it up in a common-sense way and learn from an experienced person. Own a +good, serviceable rod and fishing tackle and let it be your business to +know why they are good. Make up your mind to long, patient, trying +waits, to early and late excursions, and to some disappointments. Take a +fisherman's luck cheerfully and carry the thing through like a true +sportsman. There is one thing to remember which sportsmen sometimes +forget in the excitement of the game and that is _not to catch more fish +than you have use for_. One need not be cruel even to cold-blooded fish, +nor need one selfishly grab all one can get merely for the sake of the +getting and without a thought for those who are to come after. We have +all heard of good fishing places which have been "fished out," and that +could not be if the fishermen had taken only as many as they could use. +This rule holds good all through the wild: Take what you need, it is +yours, but all the rest belongs to others. + + + + +CHAPTER XI + +USEFUL KNOTS AND HOW TO TIE THEM + +=Square Knots. Hitching Knots. Other Knots= + + +Every outdoor girl should know what knots to use for various purposes +and how to tie them, but only those which will be found useful on the +trail are given here. + + +=Terms Used in Knot-Tying= + +There are three different kinds of bends that are given a rope in the +process of tying a knot, and each bend has its own name. You must learn +these in order to understand the directions for knot-tying; they are: +the _bight_, the _loop_, and the _round turn_. + +The _bight_ (Fig. 46) is made by bending the rope so that the sides are +parallel. The _loop_ (Fig. 47) is made by lapping one rope of the bight +across the other. The _round turn_ (Fig. 48) is made by carrying one +rope of the loop all the way around to the other side, making half of +the loop double. + + +=Square Knot= + +This is probably what you would at first call a hard knot, and so it is +a hard knot to come untied of itself or to slip, but it is easy to untie +when necessary. The hard knot most people tie is not quite the same as +the square knot, though it does resemble it. + +The ordinary hard knot is what is known as the _granny_ knot, a slurring +name which means a failure. The granny knot will not always stay tied, +it often slips and it cannot be trusted when absolute security is +needed. + +Begin the _square knot_ with the single first tie (Fig. 49). You see the +end _X_ turns up _over_ the other rope while the end _O_ laps _under_ +the rope. Now bring the two ends together, lapping _X over O_ (Fig. 50). +Then pass _X_ back under _O_, making the single tie once more. Now +compare what you have done with Fig. 51. Notice in the drawing that the +ends of rope _X_ are _both over_ the right-hand bight, and the ends of +rope _O_ are _both under_ the left-hand bight. Draw the square knot +tight and it looks like Fig. 52. + +You cannot make a mistake in tying the square knot if you remember to +notice which end is on top, or laps _over_ the other rope when the first +single tie is made (Fig. 49), and then be sure to lap this _same end +over_ the other end in making the second tie which finishes the knot. + + +=Figure-Eight Knot= + +Use the figure-eight knot to make a knot on the end of a rope or to +prevent the end of the strands from untwisting. Form a loop like Fig. 53 +near the end of the rope, bringing the short end over the long rope; +then pass the short end under the long rope once, as shown by dotted +line, and carry it up over and through the loop (Fig. 54). Pull it up +tightly to bring the end square across the rope (Fig. 55). This knot is +not difficult to untie. + +[Illustration: 46 Bight. + +47 Loop. + +48 Round turn. + +BENDS IN KNOT TYING + +49 SQUARE KNOT 50 + +51 52] + + +=Bow-Line Knot= + +To form a loop that will not slip and yet may be easily untied use the +bow-line knot. + +(1) When the loop is not fastened to anything use the _overhand method_ +of tying it. First measure off sufficient rope for the loop you wish +to make and hold the place with your left hand (this place is indicated +by the arrow in Fig. 56); then with your right hand throw the short end +of the rope over the long rope (Fig. 56). Still holding the short end +with your right hand, with the left hand bring the long rope up to form +a loop over the end (Fig. 57). Now with your right hand take up the end, +draw it farther through the loop, and pass it behind the long rope above +the loop, from right to left (Fig. 58). Bring the end forward again and +slip it downward through the loop (Fig. 59). Draw the knot tight and it +cannot slip, no matter how great the strain. + +(2) Use the _underhand method_ when the loop is passed _around_ +something or _through_ a ring. This loop may be put around the neck of a +horse or cow without danger of injury, for it will not slip and tighten. +It can also be used in place of the hitching tie. + +Slip the rope through the ring, or around the object, from left to right +while you hold the long rope in your left hand. Take a half-hitch around +the long rope, passing the end _over_ the long rope, then under it. This +makes a loop like Fig. 60. Transfer this loop from the short rope to the +long rope by holding loosely, or giving slack, with the left hand and +pulling up with the right. A little practise will enable you to do this +easily. Fig. 61 shows the loop transferred to the long rope with the +short end passing through it. At this stage carry the short end over, +then under the long rope _below_ the loop (Fig. 62), then up and through +the loop as in Fig. 63. Tighten the knot by pulling on both the long +rope and the short end. + +[Illustration: 53 54 55 + +FIGURE EIGHT KNOT + +56 57 58 + +OVERHAND BOWLINE KNOT + +59] + + +=Sheep-Shank Knot= + +It is sometimes necessary to shorten a rope temporarily and not +desirable to cut it, and the sheep-shank knot solves the problem. It +is used by the sailors, who do not believe in cutting ropes. It will +stand a tremendous strain without slipping, but will loosen when held +slack, and can be untied by a quick jerk of the two outside ropes +forming the bights. + +Begin by bending the rope to form two bights as in _A_, Fig. 64, carry +the single rope over at the top of the bend, then under to form a +half-hitch as in _B_. Do the same with the other single rope at the +bottom of the bend _C_, and draw both ends tight (_D_). With a little +practise this can be done very quickly. If the rope is to be permanently +shortened pass the ends through the first and second bights at the bend +as in _E_, and the knot will hold for any length of time. + + +=The Parcel Slip-Knot= + +This is the simplest of all knots to start with in tying up a parcel. +Begin by making a knot about one inch from the end of your twine, using +the single tie like _F_ (Fig. 65). If this does not make the knot large +enough use the figure-eight knot. The single tie is sufficient in +ordinary cases. Wrap your twine once around your parcel, lapping the +long twine over the knotted end as in _G_. Bring the knotted end over +the long twine, forming a bight, then _over_ and _under_ its own twine +with the single tie (_H_). Draw the tie up close to the knot at the end; +the knot prevents it from slipping off. Now the long twine may be drawn +tight or loosened at will, and will hold the first wrap in place while +the twine is being wrapped around the package in a different place. + + +[Illustration: 60 61 62 63 + +UNDERHAND BOWLINE KNOT + +A B C + +FIG 64 SHEEPSHANK KNOT + +D E] + + +=Cross-Tie Parcel Knot= + +When you have two or more parallel twines on your parcel and have begun +to bring down the cross-line, secure it to each twine in this way: Bring +the long twine down and loop it under the first twine to form a bight +as in _I_ (Fig. 66). + +Then carry the long twine over, itself forming a loop (_J_), then under +the first twine as in _K_. + +Draw tight and proceed to the second twine, making the same cross-tie. + +When you have carried your cross-line entirely around the parcel, tie it +securely to the first twine where it began and finish with a single-tie +knot, making a knot on the last end of the twine close to the fastening, +to keep the end from slipping through. + + +=Fisherman's Knot= + +The fisherman's knot is used by fishermen to tie silkworm gut together. +It is easily untied by pulling the two short ends, but it never slips. +Lay the two ropes side by side (_L_, Fig. 67), then make a loop around +one rope with the other rope, passing the end under both ropes (_M_). +Bring the end over and into the loop to make a single tie (_N_). Tie the +end of the second rope around the first rope in the same manner (_N_) +and draw both knots tight (_O_). + + +=Halter, Slip, or Running Knot= + +The halter or slip knot is often convenient, but should never be used +around the neck of an animal, for if either end is pulled it will slip +and tighten, thereby strangling the creature. + +First form a bight, then with one end of the rope make a single tie +around the other rope (Fig. 68). + + +[Illustration: F G H + +FIG 65 PARCEL SLIP KNOT + +I J K + +FIG 66 CROSS-TIE PARCEL KNOT + +L M N O + +FIG 67 FISHERMAN'S KNOT] + + +=Half-Hitch= + +If you have anything to do with horses or boats you must know how to +make the proper ties for hitching the horse to a post, or a boat to a +tree, stump, or anything else that is handy. + +The half-hitch is a loop around a rope with the short end secured under +the loop (Fig. 69). This answers for a temporary, but not a secure, +fastening. + + +=Timber-Hitch= + +When you want a temporary fastening, secure yet easily undone, make a +_timber-hitch_ (Fig. 70). Pass the rope around an object, take a +half-hitch around the rope, and pass the short end once more between the +rope and the object. + + +=Hitching Tie= + +If the hitching tie is properly made, and the knot turned to the _right_ +of the post, the stronger the pull on the long end of the rope, the +tighter the hold, and the loop will not slip down even on a smooth, +plain post. If the knot is turned to the left, or is directly in front, +the loop will not pull tight and will slide down. For the reason that +the loop will tighten, the _hitching tie_ should never be used around +the neck of a horse, as it might pull tight and the animal be strangled. + +In making the hitching tie, first pass the rope from left to right +around the post, tree, or stump; bring it together and hold in the left +hand. The left hand is represented by the arrow (Fig. 71). With the +right hand throw the short end of the rope across the ropes in front of +the left hand, forming a loop below the left hand (Fig. 72). Slip the +right hand through this loop, grasp the rope just in front, and pull it +back to form a bight, as you make a chain-stitch in crocheting (Fig. +73). Down through this last bight pass the end of the rope and pull the +knot tight (Fig. 74). + +[Illustration: 68 + +68 69 70 + +71 72 73 74 + +The halter, slip-knot, and hitching-tie.] + + + + +CHAPTER XII + +ACCIDENTS + +=Sprains. Bruises. Burns. Cuts. Sunstroke. Drowning= + + +One learns quickly how to take care of oneself while on the trail, and +serious accidents seldom occur. In fact, every member of the party takes +pride in keeping herself free from accident; it is so like a tenderfoot +to get hurt. However, it is well to be prepared in case accidents do +occur, and this chapter is intended to forearm you that you may not +stand helplessly by when your aid is needed. + + +=Sprains and Bruises= + +The best immediate treatment for ordinary sprains and bruises is the +application of _cloths dipped in very hot water_. This takes out the +soreness and prevents inflammation. As soon as one application cools a +little, a hot one should take its place, as hot as can be borne without +scalding the flesh. Very cold water can be used when hot is not +obtainable. For a sprained ankle or wrist continue this treatment for a +while and then bind smoothly and firmly with a clean cotton bandage. +Keep as quiet as possible with a sprained ankle, and if the accident +occurs when on a walk the fireman's lift may be used for carrying the +injured person to camp. + +[Illustration: The fireman's lift.] + + +=Fireman's Lift= + +To be able to use the fireman's lift may be to save a life, as it can be +employed when there is but one person to do the carrying. With +practise any girl of ordinary strength can lift and carry another of her +own size or even larger. + +In order to make the lift easy, instruct the patient to relax all her +muscles and become perfectly limp; then turn her on her face, stand over +her body with one foot at each side, face toward the patient's head. +Lean forward and place your hands under her arms, then gently raise her +to her knees, next slide your hands quickly down around her body at the +low waist-line, lifting her at the same time to her feet. Immediately +grasp her right wrist with your left hand, and pass your head under her +right arm and your right arm under one or both of her knees, shifting +the patient's hips well on your shoulders, rise to a standing position +and carry patient away. + + +=Cuts= + +The accidents that most frequently happen are simple cuts and bruises. + +For a slight cut wash the wound in lukewarm water to remove all dirt or +foreign matter, then press the lips or sides together and hold them in +place with strips of court-plaster or surgeon's adhesive plaster. Do not +cover the entire wound with the plaster, but put strips across at right +angles with the cut, leaving a space between every two strips and using +only enough plaster to keep the cut closed. Cover the hurt part with a +bandage to protect it from further injury. + +[Illustration: The tourniquet. + +Blanket stretcher. + +Aids in "first aid."] + + +=When an Artery is Cut= + +When an artery is cut the wound is more serious and the bleeding must be +stopped _immediately_. When the blood comes from an artery it is bright +red in color and flows copiously in spurts or jets. The blood in the +arteries is flowing away from the heart, therefore you must stop it +between the cut and the heart. It is the arteries in the arms and legs +that are most likely to be injured. In the arm the large artery runs +down the inner side of the upper arm. In the leg the artery runs down +the inner side of the upper leg. + + +=The Tourniquet= + +To stop the bleeding press the artery _above_ the wound firmly with your +fingers while some one prepares a tourniquet. Use a handkerchief, a +necktie, or anything of the kind for a tourniquet; tie it loosely around +the limb and in the bandage place a smooth stone (or something that will +take its place), adjusting it just above your fingers on the artery. +Then slip a strong, slender stick about ten inches long under the +bandage at the outer side of the arm or leg and turn the stick around +like the hand of a clock, until the stone presses the artery just as +your fingers did. Tie the stick above and below the bandage to keep it +from untwisting. + +_Do not forget_ that the tourniquet is cutting off circulation, and for +this to continue very long is dangerous. It is not safe to keep it on +more than one hour without loosening. If the hand or foot grows cold and +numb before that time loosen the tourniquet and rub briskly to restore +circulation. Should the wound begin to bleed again when the tourniquet +is loosened, be ready to tighten at once. + +In case of an accident of this kind summon a physician, if one can be +reached quickly. If not, take the patient to the nearest doctor, for the +artery must be tied as soon as possible and only a physician or skilful +trained nurse can do that part of the work. + + +=Emergency Stretchers= + +Loss of blood is too weakening to permit of the patient walking, and the +exertion may start the wound bleeding again, so a stretcher of some kind +must be contrived in which she may be carried. You can make a good +emergency stretcher of two strong poles of _green_ wood, one large +blanket, and the ever-useful horse-blanket safety-pins. The poles should +be about six feet long, of a size to clasp easily in your hand, and as +smooth as they can be made with hurried work. They should, at least, be +free from jagged stumps or branches and twigs. + +Begin by folding the blanket through the middle _over_ one of the poles, +then pin the blanket together with the large safety-pins, with the pins +about six inches apart, to hold the pole in place. That finishes one +side; for the other, lap the two edges of the blanket over the second +pole and pin them down like a hem. The stretcher will be of double +thickness and will hold the injured person comfortably. + +If a serious accident should occur some distance from camp and there are +no blankets to use, do not hesitate to appropriate for a stretcher +whatever you have with you. When there is nothing else cut your khaki +skirt into strips about twelve inches wide and tie the ends to two poles +(the poles need not be smooth except at the ends), leaving spaces +between. + + +=Burns and Scalds= + +Personally I have repudiated the old method of treating simple burns and +scalds and, instead of applying oil or flour, have discovered for myself +that simply holding a slightly burned finger or hand in a running stream +of cold water not only gives instant relief but prevents the pain from +returning in any severity. Care of the injured part to prevent the skin +from breaking and causing a sore is the only thing left to be done. +However, here are the ordinary remedies for burns. Any of the following +things spread over a piece of linen or soft cotton cloth are said to be +good: olive-oil, carbolized vaseline, fresh lard, cream, flour, and +baking-soda. For serious burns a physician should be called. + + +=Heat Prostration and Sunstroke= + +This will seldom occur in a camp of healthy girls whose stomachs and +blood are in good order, but it is best not to expose oneself to the +fierce rays of the sun during a period of intense heat, or directly +after eating. In case any one is overcome and complains of feeling +faint, and of dizziness and throbbing head, take her where it is cool, +in the shade if possible, lay her down, loosen her clothing, and apply +cold water to her face and head. She will probably be able to walk when +she revives, but if not, carry her home or into camp. _Do not give +whiskey, brandy, or any stimulants._ + + +=Cinder or Foreign Substance in the Eye= + +As a rule all that is necessary to remove "something" in your eye is to +take the eyelashes of the upper lid between your thumb and forefinger +and pull the lid down over the lower one. The lower lashes thus shut in, +combined with the tears that flood the eye, will clean the eye in most +cases. + +If the cinder or other substance is embedded in the upper lid, roll back +the lid over a match (the sulphur end taken off), then moisten a corner +of a handkerchief and with it remove the cinder. If this treatment does +not avail and the substance cannot be removed, put a drop of olive-oil +in the eye, close it and cover with a soft bandage, then go to a +physician. _Do not put anything stiff or hard into the eye._ + + +=Fainting= + +Fainting occurs most often in overheated and over-crowded places where +the air is impure. The proper treatment is to lay the patient flat on +her back with the head lower than the rest of the body and feet raised; +then loosen the clothes at waist and neck, sprinkle the face and neck +with cold water, and hold smelling salts or ammonia to the nostrils. +Insist upon giving her all the fresh air possible. It is good also to +rub the limbs with the motion upward toward the body. + + +=Drowning--Shafer Method= + +Secure a doctor if possible, but do not wait for him. Do not _wait_ for +anything; what you do, do _instantly_. + +As soon as the rescued person is out of the water begin treatment to +restore respiration, that is, to make her _breathe_. If you can do this +her life will probably be saved. Not until the patient breathes +naturally must you work to bring warmth and circulation to the body. To +promote circulation _before_ the patient _breathes naturally_ may +endanger her life. + +First quickly loosen the clothes at waist and neck; then turn the +patient face downward on the ground with face either downward or turned +to one side, arms extended above the head, and with chest raised +slightly from the ground and resting upon your folded skirt. Also place +something beneath her forehead to raise her nose and mouth from the +ground. This will allow the tongue to fall forward. If it does not, +grasp it with handkerchief and pull forward; this will permit the water +to run out and will provide room for breathing. + +As in cases of fainting, so with drowning patient, she must have all the +air possible, for she is being suffocated with water, so do not allow a +crowd to form around her. Keep every one back except those assisting in +the actual work of restoration. + +With the patient in the position described, kneel by her side or, better +still, astride of her, and let your hands fall into the spaces between +the short ribs. With your fingers turned outward and your weight falling +upon the palms of your hands, press steadily downward and forward to +expel the air from the lungs. Hold this position a fraction of a second, +count four, then gradually release the pressure to allow the air to +enter again through the throat. Count four, and again press down. +Continue this treatment for a while, then, using another method, slip +your hands under the patient at the waist-line and lift her up +sufficiently to allow her head to hang down as in illustration. + +Lower her gently and lift again. Do this several times. You will find +that the movement will force the water from the lungs out of the mouth +and help to produce artificial respiration. + +Return to the first method and continue the treatment until the breath +comes naturally. It may be an hour or two before there are any signs of +life such as a gasp or slight movement, then the breath must be +carefully aided by more gentle pressure until it comes easily without +help. + +Do not give up hope, and _do not stop working_. The work may be +continued many hours if done in relays, that is, several girls taking +part, each one in her turn. Remember, however, the treatment must be +continuous and no time be allowed to elapse when the change is being +made. + +[Illustration: Restoring respiration.] + + +=After Respiration Begins= + +With returning breath the first corner in recovery has been turned, but +the after treatment is very important. To restore circulation, begin by +rubbing the limbs _upward_ with a firm pressure. This sends the blood to +the heart. Warmth must now be supplied by blankets heated before a fire, +and hot stones or bricks may be placed at the thighs and at the soles of +the feet. Or the patient should be wrapped in a warm blanket, placed on +a stretcher, carried to camp, or to a house, and put to bed. Here +hot-water bottles may be used, and as soon as it is possible for her to +swallow, if nothing else can be obtained, give a little strong, hot +coffee, unsweetened and without milk. Lastly, keep the patient quiet and +let her sleep. + + +=Nosebleed= + +The simplest method of stopping the nosebleed is to hold something +_cold_ on the back of the neck (a large key will do) and pinch the +nostrils together; also cool the forehead with water and hold the arms +above the head. This is usually effective. + + + + +CHAPTER XIII + +CAMP FUN AND FROLICS + +=Active Sports and Games. Evenings in Camp. Around the Camp-Fire. Quiet +Games, Songs, and Stories. Lighting Fires Without a Match= + + +Camp fun should have a place, and an important one, in your plans for +the trail. For the time being the camp is your home and it should never +be allowed to become dull for want of a little gayety and wholesome +amusement. In a permanent camp there will be days when the entire party +will be loafing and then is the time to start a frolic of some kind. + + +=Obstacle Races= + +Competitive sports are always entertaining, and races, of one kind or +another, are the most exciting. The Boy Scouts have a race in which the +competitors drop first their staffs, then their hats, their neckties, +leggins, and, finally struggling out of the blouse of their uniform, +they drop that also. All this must be done while on the way and before +they cross a given line. At the line they turn to go back over the +course and, while running, take up their various belongings and put them +on before they reach the home goal. + +A race planned on these lines will be most amusing. A smooth course is +not necessary, you probably won't have it at camp, and to get over the +uneven ground, with the detentions of first dropping, then picking up +the articles dropped, will add to the excitement of the sport. An +entertaining variation of this will be to have those taking part in the +race appear in impromptu costumes (worn over the ordinary dress) which +they must remove piece by piece as they run and put the things all on +again while returning over the course. Such hastily adjusted costumes +cannot help but be funny. + + +=Medals= + +The winner of the race should be given a medal as a prize. The medal can +be made of any handy material. A tin circular disk cut from the top of a +tin can will do. Drive a nail through this tin medal near the edge and +pass a string through the hole so that it may be hung around the neck of +the winner. Or instead of giving a medal, the victor may be crowned, +like the ancient Greeks, with a wreath of leaves. + + +=Blindfold Obstacle Walk= + +Another amusing camp sport is the blindfold obstacle walk. Place six or +eight good-sized stones on the ground in a row, about two feet apart. +The stones should be flat on top so that you can stand a tin cup filled +with water on each stone. Let one member of the party make a trial trip +over the cups, stepping between them as she passes down the row; then +blindfold her, place two people as a guard, one on each side of her, to +hold her hands and prevent a fall, and let them lead her to the end of +the line of cups and tell her to go over it again. + +The guard will steady her in case she stumbles but must in no way guide +her course aright. The stepper will step high and be absurdly careful +not to kick over one of the cups, for wet feet would probably be the +result. Sometimes the stepper will leave the line of her own accord; +sometimes her guard will purposely, and without her knowing it, lead +her off the course and then her careful, high steps over nothing add to +the fun of the onlookers. + +Any number may take part in the sport, and in turn act as stepper. At +the end a prize should be given by vote to the one who afforded the +greatest amusement. + + +=Hunting the Quail= + +This is something like the old game of hide-and-seek, with which all +girls are familiar, and it will not be difficult to learn. The players +are divided into "hunter" and "quails." The hunter is "It," and any +counting-out rhyme will decide who is to take that part. When the +hunter, with closed eyes, has counted her hundred, and the quails have +scurried away to their hiding-places behind trees, bushes, or rocks, the +hunt begins, and at the same time begins the cry of the quails: +"Bob-White! Bob-White! Bob-White!" These calls, coming from every +direction, are very bewildering, and the hunter must be alert to detect +the direction of one particular sound and quick to see the flight of a +quail and catch her before she can reach the home goal and find shelter +there. The first quail caught becomes hunter in her turn, and the noisy, +rollicking game continues as long as the players wish. Another romping +game is called + + +=Trotting-Horse= + +It is warranted to put in circulation even the most sluggish blood and +to warm the coldest feet, and it is fine for the almost frosty weather +we sometimes have in the mountains. + +The players form a circle in marching order; that is, each girl faces +the back of another, with a space between every two players. +Trotting-horse, the "It" of the game, stands in the centre of the +circle. When she gives the signal, the players forming the circle begin +to run round and round, keeping the circle intact, while trotting-horse, +always trotting, tries to slip between the ranks, which close up to +prevent her escape. Trotting-horse must trot, not run. If she runs when +making her escape she must go back into the ring and try once more to +break away. When she succeeds fairly in getting through the ranks the +player in front of whom she slips becomes "It" and takes the place of +trotting-horse. + + +=Wood Tennis= + +Wood tennis is of the woods, woodsy. Green pine-cones take the place of +balls; hands, of rackets; and branches, of tennis-net. Lay out a regular +tennis-court by scraping the lines in the earth, or outlining the +boundaries with sticks or other convenient materials. Build a net of +branches by sticking the ends in the ground, and collect a number of +smooth, green cones for balls. + +Wood tennis must, of necessity, differ somewhat from the regulation +game. Since pine-cones will not bounce and there are no rackets for +striking them, they must be tossed across the net, caught in the hands, +and quickly tossed back. In other respects the rules of the established +game may be used entire or simplified if desired. + +[Illustration: WHEN DARKNESS CLOSES IN] + + +=Around the Camp-Fire= + +When darkness creeps through the woods, closing in closer and closer; +when it blots out, one by one, the familiar landmarks and isolates the +little camp in a sea of night, with the mutual wish for nearer +companionship, we gather around the camp-fire, the one light in all the +great darkness. We are grateful for its warmth, as the evenings are +chill, and its cheery blaze and crackle bring a feeling of hominess +and comfort welcome to every one. If there are men in the party they +light their pipes and then begin the stories of past experiences on the +trail, which are of the keenest interest to all campers. These stories, +told while one gazes dreamily into the glowing coals of the fire or +looks beyond the light into the mysterious blackness of the forest, have +a charm that is wanting under different surroundings. The stories are +not confined to the men, for in these days when girls and women are also +on the trail, they too can relate things worth the telling. + + +=Songs= + +Then come the songs. If there is some one in the party who can lead in +singing, she can use a familiar air with a rousing chorus as a frame +upon which to hang impromptu verses, made up of personalities and local +hits. This is always fun and you are surprised how quickly doggerel +rhymes suggest themselves when your turn comes to furnish a verse to the +song. + +The leader begins something like this, using, perhaps, the air and +refrain of an old chantey or college song. + + _Leader_ + "I spotted a beaver, + But he wasn't very nye." + + _Chorus_ + "Don't you rock so hard!" + + _Second Soloist_ + "His fur was all ragged + And he had but one eye." + + _Chorus_ + "Don't you rock so hard. + Oh! You rock and I rock, and + Don't you rock so hard! + Everybody rocks when I rock, and + Don't you rock so hard." + + _Third Soloist_ + "You may laugh at the beaver, + But he's always up to time." + + _Chorus_ + "Don't you rock so hard!" + + _Fourth Soloist_ + "Oh, do drop the beaver, + And start a new rhyme." + + _Chorus as before_ + +A song like this may go on indefinitely or until the rhyming powers of +the party are exhausted. + + +=Bird-Call Match= + +In a camp where the members are all familiar with the calls of the +various wild birds, a bird-call match makes a charming game when the +party is gathered around the camp-fire. The leader begins by whistling +or singing the call of a wild bird; if it can be put into words so much +the better. For instance, we will take the first few notes of the +wood-thrush, which F. Schuyler Mathews has put into notes and words as +follows: + +[Illustration: Music: Come to me, I am here. + +Wood-thrush.] + +Or the yellow-throated vireo, which he gives in this way: + +[Illustration: Music: See me! I'm here, Where are you? + +Yellow vireo.] + +If the leader is correct the next player gives the call of another bird. +When a player gives a bird call which is known to be incorrect--that is, +absolutely wrong--and some one else can supply the proper rendering, the +first player is dropped from the game just as a person is dropped out of +a spelling-match when she misspells a word. If there is no one who can +give the call correctly, she retains her place. This is excellent +training in woodcraft as well as a fascinating game. Your ears will be +quickened to hear and to identify the bird calls by playing it; and +storing bird notes in your memory for use in the next bird-call match +will become a habit. + + +=Vary the Game= + +You can vary this game by giving the calls of wild animals and the +characteristic noises they make when frightened or angry. + +Living even for a short time in the wild will develop unsuspected +faculties and qualities in your make-up, and to perfect yourself in +knowledge of the woods and its inhabitants will seem of the utmost +importance. While learning the cries of birds and animals in sport, you +will wish to retain them in earnest, and to enter the wilderness +equipped with some knowledge of its languages, will open vistas to you +that the more ignorant cannot penetrate. + + +=Lighting the Fire Without a Match= + +A fire-lighting contest is the best of camp sports, for it requires +practise and skill, and to excel in it is to acquire distinction among +all outdoor people. There are girls in the Girl Pioneers Organization +who are as proficient in lighting a fire without matches as any of the +Boy Scouts who make much of the feat. + + +=Bow-and-Drill Method= + +The bow-and-drill method is the most popular among girls and boys alike, +and for this, as for all other ways of lighting a fire, you must have +the proper appliances and will probably have to make them yourself. + +Unlike the bow used for archery, the fire-bow is not to be bent by the +bow-string but must have a permanent curve. Choose a piece of sapling +about eighteen or twenty inches long which curves evenly; cut a notch +around it at each end and at the notched places attach a string of +rawhide of the kind used as shoe-strings in hunting-shoes. Tie the +bow-string to the bow in the manner shown in Fig. 75, and allow it to +hang loosely. It must _not_ be taut as for archery. + +[Illustration: MAKE THE BOW-STRING SLACK + +77 + +75 + +76 + +Fire without matches.] + + +To the bow must be added the twirling-stick and fireboard (Fig. 76). +Make these of spruce. The twirling-stick, spindle, or fire-drill should +be a little over half an inch in diameter and sixteen inches long. Its +sides may be rounded or bevelled in six or seven flat spaces like a +lead-pencil, as shown in Fig. 76. Cut the top end to a blunt point and +sharpen the bottom end as you would a lead-pencil, leaving the lead +blunt. To hold the spindle you must have something to protect your hand. +A piece of soapstone or a piece of very hard wood will answer. This is +called the socket-block. In the wood or stone make a hole for a socket +that will hold the top end of the spindle (Fig. 76). + +The flat piece of spruce for your fireboard should be about two feet +long and a little less than one inch thick. Cut a number of triangular +notches in one edge of the board as in Fig. 76. Make the outer end of +each notch about half an inch wide, and at the inner end make a small, +cup-like hole large enough to hold the lower end of the twirling-stick. +This is called the fire pit. The reason you are to have so many notches +is because when one hole becomes too much enlarged by the drilling of +the twirling-stick, or is bored all the way through, it is discarded and +there must be others ready and prepared for immediate use. + + +=Tinder= + +All is now ready for creating a spark, but that spark cannot live alone, +it must have something it can ignite before there will be a flame. What +is wanted is tinder, and tinder can be made of various materials, all of +which must be _absolutely dry_. Here is one receipt for making tinder +given by Daniel C. Beard: "The tinder is composed of baked and blackened +cotton and linen rags. The best way to prepare these rags is to bake +them until they are dry as dust, then place them on the hearth and touch +a match to them. As soon as they burst into flame, smother the flame +with a folded newspaper, then carefully put your punk (baked and charred +rags) into a tin tobacco box or some other receptacle where it will keep +dry and be ready for use." + +This can be prepared at home. In the woods gather some of the dry inner +bark of the cedar, the fine, stringy edges of white or yellow birch, and +dry grasses, and dry them thoroughly at the camp-fire. + +Mr. Beard also says: "You can prepare tinder from dry, inflammable woods +or barks by grinding or pounding them between two flat stones. If you +grind up some charcoal (taken from your camp-fire) very fine to mix with +it, this will make it all the more inflammable. A good, safe method to +get a flame from your fine tinder is to wrap up a small amount of it in +the shredded bark of birch or cedar, so that you may hold it in your +hand until it ignites from the embers produced by the saw." + +With all your material at hand for starting a fire, make one turn around +the spindle, with the bow-string, as in Fig. 76. Place the point of the +lower end of the spindle in the small hole or "fire pit" at the inside +end of a notch in the fireboard, fit the socket-block on the top end of +the spindle (Fig. 76), and hold it in place with one hand, as shown in +Fig. 77. Grasp one end of the bow with the other hand and saw it back +and forth. This will whirl the spindle rapidly and cause the friction +which makes the heat that produces the spark. When it begins to smoke, +fan it with your hand and light your tinder from the sparks. + + +=Without the Bow= + +Fig. 78 shows a method which is the same as Fig. 77, the only difference +being that the bow is dispensed with, the hands alone being used for +twirling the spindle. While simpler, it is very difficult to put +sufficient force and speed into the work to produce fire, and it is a +very tiresome process. Another way is shown in Fig. 79. It will take two +girls to work in this fashion. The spindle is whirled by pulling the +leather shoe-string back and forth. One girl holds the spindle and +steadies the fireboard while the other does the twirling. + +[Illustration: THE RUBBING STICK + +80 + +THE PLOW + +78 79 + +81 + +SLIT BAMBOO + +SAW + +Fire without the bow.] + + +=The Plough= + +It is more difficult to produce fire by the plough method than with the +bow, but it can be done. The appliances are simple enough. All you need +is a fireboard in which a groove or gutter has been cut, and a +rubbing-stick to push up and down the gutter (Fig. 80). + +Other woods than spruce are used with success for fire-drills and +fireboards, but all must be dry. These are soft maple, cedar, balsam, +tamarack, cottonwood root, and _white_, not pitch, pine. + + +=Bamboo Fire-Saw= + +Part of an old bamboo fishing-rod will supply material for the fire-saw. +Cut off a piece of bamboo about fifteen inches long, split it, and +sharpen the edge of one piece to a knife-like thinness. Lay the other +half down with the curved surface up and cut a slit in it through which +the sharp edge of the saw can be passed. One or two girls can work this. +When there are two, one girl holds the slit bamboo down firmly, while +the other does the sawing (Fig. 81). + +Put a little wad of tinder on a dry leaf and arrange it where the +powdered sawdust will fall on it. When the powder becomes sufficiently +hot there will be sparks and these, falling into the tinder, can be +fanned into a flame by waving your hand over it. You will not see the +spark but when smoke arises you will know that it is there. Fan gently, +else you will blow the fire out, and keep on fanning until your flame is +started. + + + + +CHAPTER XIV + +HAPPY AND SANE SUNDAY IN CAMP + + +It is a good idea to carefully plan for your Sundays in camp, have every +hour mapped out and never allow the time to drag. Make special effort +and determine that the day shall be the very happiest day of each week, +a day in which every one of the campers will be especially interested +and will look forward to with genuine pleasure. + +Sit down quietly and think it all out. You will want the day to differ +from week-days; you will want it filled with the real life, not +half-life, the life only of the physical and mental, but the true, +entire life for each camper; you will want to emphasize this higher, +inner life, which is the spiritual. + +To this end, when you arise in the morning, form the resolution that the +day shall be a peaceful, enjoyable one for all the girls. When you take +your morning plunge resolve that not only will you be physically clean, +but you will also be both mentally and spiritually clean; then all +through the day keep in mind that you _can_ rule your thoughts and that +you _will_, for power to do this will be given to you from the source of +all power. Allow not one thought to remain which is not kind, friendly, +cheerful, and peaceful. Should other thoughts intrude be firm and severe +with them, have no mercy on them, talk to those thoughts as you would to +robbers and thieves, tell them to go, _go_, GO, BEGONE, that you have +nothing in common with them and you _command_ them to _go_; then +immediately busy yourself with active work, building the fire, cooking, +tidying up the camp, etc. + +Have your Sunday breakfast especially nice, with a few flowers, vines, +leaves, or grasses on the table for a Sunday centrepiece, and keep the +conversation on wholesome, happy topics. + +After breakfast is over and the camp in order, with all the campers go +for a short walk to some attractive spot either by the water or inland, +and when the place is reached, having previously selected certain songs +containing cheerful, religious elements, ask the entire camp to join in +the singing. If one of the girls can sing a solo, let her do so, or it +may be that two can sing a duet; then sit quietly while one of the group +reads something helpful, interesting, and beautiful, which will be +verses from the Bible probably, but may be one of Emerson's essays, or +extracts from other thoughtful and helpful writers. + +Close the simple exercises with another hymn and return to camp. + +In addition to the camp dinner prepare some one dish as a pleasant +surprise for the other girls. When dinner is over, the dishes washed, +and camp again in order, the girls should have one hour of quiet, to +read, write letters, sketch, or lie down and rest. Each camper should +respect the demands of the hour for quiet and rest and _not talk_, but +leave her companions to their own thoughts and occupations. If you +should see your special friend seated off by herself, do not disturb her +during the rest hour; it is each girl's right to remain unmolested at +that time. + +When the hour is up, the campers can each pack her portion of the +evening meal, and in a moment's time be ready to hit the trail, or take +the canoe for a paddle to the place previously selected where supper is +to be enjoyed, and if the trip be on land, all may play the observation +game while on the way. + + +=Observation Game= + +The leader counts 3 to the credit of the girl who first sees a squirrel, +2 for the girl who sees the second one, and 1 for every succeeding +squirrel discovered by any member of the party. A bird counts 6, if +identified 12. A wood-mouse counts 4, when identified 8. A deer 20, +beaver 12, muskrat 8, chipmunk 10, porcupine 14, eagle 30, mink 16, +rabbit 1. The player holding the highest record when reaching the supper +grounds is victor. Keep your records tacked up in your shelter to +compare with those you will make on the following Sunday. + +In this game every time a player stumbles on the trail 5 is taken from +her credit; if she falls, she loses 10. + +It is a rule of the game that the winner be congratulated by each camper +in turn, that she be crowned with a wreath of leaves, grasses, or vines +and sit at the head of the table. Keep this game for your Sunday +afternoons and play others during the week. + +In the evening, as the campers sit quietly around the camp-fire, if the +camp director will talk to the girls gently and seriously for a little +while on some phase of their real life, the talk will be welcome and +appreciated; then just before retiring all should stand while singing +the good-night song. + +It is hardly possible to present Sunday plans for each variety of camp +and campers. The suggestions given are for helping girl campers to look +upon Sunday in its true light, and to aid them in working out plans in +accordance with the purpose of the day, that they may enjoy happy, sane +Sundays in camp. + + * * * * * + +Transcriber's Notes: + +Obvious punctuation errors repaired. + +Hyphen added to bow-line twice in list of illustrations to conform to +text usage. + +Hyphen added to illustration of High-Bush Blueberry to conform to text +usage. + +Hyphen was removed from illustrations involving footprints to conform to +text. + +Page 27, hyphen added to fire-wood to conform to rest of text. (chop +fire-wood) + +Page 78, hyphen removed from cheese-cloth to conform to rest of text. +(piece of new cheesecloth) + +Page 221, double word "the" changed to one. (stand near the edge) + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's On the Trail, by Lina Beard and Adelia Belle Beard + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ON THE TRAIL *** + +***** This file should be named 18525-8.txt or 18525-8.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/1/8/5/2/18525/ + +Produced by Audrey Longhurst, Emmy and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, +set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to +copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to +protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark. Project +Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you +charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission. If you +do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the +rules is very easy. You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose +such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and +research. They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do +practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks. Redistribution is +subject to the trademark license, especially commercial +redistribution. + + + +*** START: FULL LICENSE *** + +THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE +PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK + +To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free +distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work +(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project +Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project +Gutenberg-tm License (available with this file or online at +http://gutenberg.org/license). + + +Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic works + +1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to +and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property +(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all +the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy +all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession. +If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the +terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or +entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8. + +1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be +used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who +agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few +things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works +even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See +paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement +and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. See paragraph 1.E below. + +1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation" +or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual works in the +collection are in the public domain in the United States. If an +individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are +located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from +copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative +works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg +are removed. Of course, we hope that you will support the Project +Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by +freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of +this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with +the work. You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by +keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project +Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others. + +1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern +what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are in +a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, check +the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement +before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or +creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project +Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no representations concerning +the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United +States. + +1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: + +1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate +access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently +whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the +phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project +Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed, +copied or distributed: + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + +1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived +from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is +posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied +and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees +or charges. If you are redistributing or providing access to a work +with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the +work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 +through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the +Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or +1.E.9. + +1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted +with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution +must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional +terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms will be linked +to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the +permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work. + +1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this +work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm. + +1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this +electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without +prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with +active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project +Gutenberg-tm License. + +1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, +compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any +word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access to or +distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than +"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version +posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org), +you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a +copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon +request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other +form. Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. + +1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, +performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works +unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. + +1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing +access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided +that + +- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from + the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method + you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is + owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he + has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the + Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments + must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you + prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax + returns. Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and + sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the + address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to + the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation." + +- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies + you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he + does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm + License. You must require such a user to return or + destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium + and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of + Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any + money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the + electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days + of receipt of the work. + +- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free + distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set +forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from +both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael +Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark. Contact the +Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below. + +1.F. + +1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable +effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread +public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm +collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain +"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or +corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual +property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a +computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by +your equipment. + +1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right +of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project +Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all +liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal +fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT +LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE +PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH F3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE +TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE +LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR +INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH +DAMAGE. + +1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a +defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can +receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a +written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you +received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with +your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you with +the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a +refund. If you received the work electronically, the person or entity +providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to +receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If the second copy +is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further +opportunities to fix the problem. + +1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth +in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS' WITH NO OTHER +WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO +WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTIBILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. + +1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied +warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages. +If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the +law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be +interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by +the applicable state law. The invalidity or unenforceability of any +provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions. + +1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the +trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone +providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance +with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production, +promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works, +harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees, +that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do +or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm +work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any +Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause. + + +Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm + +Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of +electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers +including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It exists +because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from +people in all walks of life. + +Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the +assistance they need, is critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's +goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will +remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure +and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations. +To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation +and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4 +and the Foundation web page at http://www.pglaf.org. + + +Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive +Foundation + +The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit +501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the +state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal +Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification +number is 64-6221541. Its 501(c)(3) letter is posted at +http://pglaf.org/fundraising. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent +permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws. + +The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S. +Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered +throughout numerous locations. Its business office is located at +809 North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887, email +business@pglaf.org. Email contact links and up to date contact +information can be found at the Foundation's web site and official +page at http://pglaf.org + +For additional contact information: + Dr. Gregory B. Newby + Chief Executive and Director + gbnewby@pglaf.org + + +Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation + +Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide +spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of +increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be +freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest +array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations +($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt +status with the IRS. + +The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating +charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United +States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a +considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up +with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations +where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To +SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any +particular state visit http://pglaf.org + +While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we +have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition +against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who +approach us with offers to donate. + +International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make +any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from +outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. + +Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation +methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other +ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations. +To donate, please visit: http://pglaf.org/donate + + +Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. + +Professor Michael S. Hart is the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm +concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared +with anyone. For thirty years, he produced and distributed Project +Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support. + + +Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S. +unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not necessarily +keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. + + +Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: + + http://www.gutenberg.org + +This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, +including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to +subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. diff --git a/18525-8.zip b/18525-8.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b89f880 --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-8.zip diff --git a/18525-h.zip b/18525-h.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..317121d --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h.zip diff --git a/18525-h/18525-h.htm b/18525-h/18525-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..3a4817b --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/18525-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,7711 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> + +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml"> + <head> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=iso-8859-1" /> + <title> + The Project Gutenberg eBook of On The Trail, by Lina Beard and Adelia Belle Beard. + </title> + <style type="text/css"> +/*<![CDATA[ XML blockout */ +<!-- + p {margin-top: .75em; + text-align: justify; + text-indent: 1.25em; + margin-bottom: .75em; + } + .unindent {margin-top: .75em; + text-align: justify; + margin-bottom: .75em; + } + .hangindent {text-indent: -3em; margin-left: 3em;} + img {border: 0;} + .tnote {border: dashed 1px; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%;padding-bottom: .5em; padding-top: .5em; + padding-left: .5em; padding-right: .5em;} + ins {text-decoration:none; border-bottom: thin dotted gray;} + .right {text-align: right;} + h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 { + text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ + clear: both; + } + hr { width: 33%; + margin-top: 2em; + margin-bottom: 2em; + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; + clear: both; + } + + table {margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;} + + body{margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; + } + + .pagenum { /* uncomment the next line for invisible page numbers */ + /* visibility: hidden; */ + position: absolute; + left: 92%; + font-size: smaller; + text-align: right; + } /* page numbers */ + + .blockquot{margin-left: 5%; margin-right: 10%; text-align: justify;} + .bbox {border: solid 2px; margin-left: 10em; margin-right: 10em; padding: 2em;} + + .center {text-align: center;} + .smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} + + .caption {text-align: center;} + + .figcenter {margin: auto; text-align: center;} + + .figleft {float: left; clear: left; margin-left: 0; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-top: + 1em; margin-right: 1em; padding: 0; text-align: center;} + + .figright {float: right; clear: right; margin-left: 1em; margin-bottom: 1em; + margin-top: 1em; margin-right: 0; padding: 0; text-align: center;} + + // --> + /* XML end ]]>*/ + </style> + </head> +<body> + + +<pre> + +Project Gutenberg's On the Trail, by Lina Beard and Adelia Belle Beard + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: On the Trail + An Outdoor Book for Girls + +Author: Lina Beard and Adelia Belle Beard + +Release Date: June 7, 2006 [EBook #18525] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ON THE TRAIL *** + + + + +Produced by Audrey Longhurst, Emmy and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + + + + + +</pre> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_ii" id="Page_ii">[ii]</a></span><br /><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_iii" id="Page_iii">[iii]</a></span></p> + + + + + +<div class='bbox'><h1>On the Trail</h1> + +<h2>An Outdoor Book for Girls</h2> + +<h3>By</h3> + +<h2>LINA BEARD</h2> + +<h3>AND</h3> + +<h2>ADELIA BELLE BEARD</h2> + +<div class='center'><br /><br />With Illustrations by the Authors<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +NEW YORK<br /> +Charles Scribner's Sons<br /> +1915</div></div> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_iv" id="Page_iv">[iv]</a></span></p> +<div class='center'><span class="smcap">Copyright, 1915, By</span><br /> +CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS<br /> +<br /> +Published June, 1915<br /> +<br /> +<br /></div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 128px;"> +<img src="images/emblem.png" width="128" height="150" alt="Emblem" title="Emblem" /> +<span class="caption">Emblem</span> +</div> +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_v" id="Page_v">[v]</a></span></p> +<div class='center'> +TO ALL GIRLS<br /> +WHO LOVE THE LIFE OF THE OPEN<br /> +WE DEDICATE THIS BOOK<br /> +</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_vi" id="Page_vi"></a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="front" id="front"></a><img src="images/frontispiece-tb.jpg" alt="Over-night camp." title="Over-night camp." /></div> + +<div class='center'>Over-night camp.<br />Fire notice is posted on tree.</div> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_vii" id="Page_vii">[vii]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>PRESENTATION</h2> + + +<p>The joyous, exhilarating call of the wilderness and the forest camp is +surely and steadily penetrating through the barriers of brick, stone, +and concrete; through the more or less artificial life of town and city; +and the American girl is listening eagerly. It is awakening in her +longings for free, wholesome, and adventurous outdoor life, for the +innocent delights of nature-loving Thoreau and bird-loving Burroughs. +Sturdy, independent, self-reliant, she is now demanding outdoor books +that are genuine and filled with practical information; books that tell +how to do worth-while things, that teach real woodcraft and are not +adapted to the girl supposed to be afraid of a caterpillar or to shudder +at sight of a harmless snake.</p> + +<p>In answer to the demand, "On the Trail" has been written. The authors' +deep desire is to help girls respond to this new, insistent call by +pointing out to them the open trail. It is their hope and wish that +their girl readers may seek the charm of the wild and may find the same +happiness in the life of the open that the American boy has enjoyed +since the first settler built his little cabin on the shores of the New +World. To forward this object, the why and how, the where and when of +things of camp and trail have been embodied in this book.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_viii" id="Page_viii">[viii]</a></span></p> + +<p>Thanks are due to Edward Cave, president and editor of <i>Recreation</i>, for +kindly allowing the use of some of his wild-life photographs.</p> + +<div class='right'> +<span class="smcap">Lina Beard</span><span style="margin-right: 4em;">,</span><br /> +<span class="smcap">Adelia Belle Beard</span>.</div> +<div><span style="margin-left: 5em;">F</span><span class="smcap">lushing, N. Y.</span>,<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 5em;">March 16, 1915.</span><br /> +</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_ix" id="Page_ix">[ix]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>CONTENTS</h2> + + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Contents"> +<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">chapter</span></td><td align='left'></td><td align='right'><span class="smcap">page</span></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>I.</td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Trailing</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_3'>3</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>II.</td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Woodcraft</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_21'>21</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>III.</td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Camping</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_44'>44</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>IV.</td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">What to Wear on the Trail</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_84'>84</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>V.</td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Outdoor Handicraft</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_106'>106</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>VI.</td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Making Friends with the Outdoor Folk</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_119'>119</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>VII.</td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Wild Food on the Trail</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_138'>138</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>VIII.</td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Little Foes of the Trailer</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_165'>165</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>IX.</td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">On the Trail with Your Camera</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_187'>187</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>X.</td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">On and in the Water</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_205'>205</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>XI.</td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Useful Knots and How to Tie Them</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_233'>233</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>XII.</td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Accidents</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_244'>244</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>XIII.</td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Camp Fun and Frolics</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_255'>255</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>XIV.</td><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Happy and Sane Sunday in Camp</span></td><td align='right'><a href='#Page_269'>269</a></td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_x" id="Page_x">[x]</a></span><br /><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xi" id="Page_xi">[xi]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>ILLUSTRATIONS</h2> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="List of Illustrations"> +<tr><td align='left'>Over-night camp</td><td align='right'><a href='#front'><i>Frontispiece</i></a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'></td><td align='right'><span class="smcap">page</span></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>One can generally pass around obstructions like this on the trail</td><td align='right'><a href='#pass'>5</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Difficulties of the Adirondack trail</td><td align='right'><a href='#trail'>9</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Blazing the trail by bending down and breaking branches</td><td align='right'><a href='#blaze'>11</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Returning to camp by the blazed trail</td><td align='right'><a href='#return'>13</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><ins title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'Foot-prints'">Footprints</ins> of animals</td><td align='right'><a href='#print1'>17</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><ins title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'Foot-prints'">Footprints</ins> of animals</td><td align='right'><a href='#print2'>19</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Ink impressions of leaves</td><td align='right'><a href='#ink1'>23</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Ink impressions of leaves</td><td align='right'><a href='#ink2'>24</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Ink impressions of leaves</td><td align='right'><a href='#ink3'>25</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Pitch-pine and cone</td><td align='right'><a href='#pine'>26</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Sycamore leaf and fruit of sycamore</td><td align='right'><a href='#pine'>26</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>How to use the axe</td><td align='right'><a href='#axe'>29</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The compass and the North Star</td><td align='right'><a href='#compass'>37</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>A permanent camp</td><td align='right'><a href='#permanent'>49</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Outdoor shelters</td><td align='right'><a href='#shelter'>51</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Dining-tent, handy racks, and log bedstead</td><td align='right'><a href='#dining'>53</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>A forest camp by the water</td><td align='right'><a href='#forest'>55</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>In camp</td><td align='right'><a href='#in_camp'>57</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The bough-bed, the cook-fire, and the wall-tent</td><td align='right'><a href='#bough'>59</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Soft wood</td><td align='right'><a href='#soft'>63</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Hard wood</td><td align='right'><a href='#hard'>65</a><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xii" id="Page_xii">[xii]</a></span></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Bringing wood for the fire</td><td align='right'><a href='#bring'>69</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Camp fires and camp sanitation</td><td align='right'><a href='#fires'>81</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Trailers' outfits</td><td align='right'><a href='#outfits'>87</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The head-net and blanket-roll</td><td align='right'><a href='#net'>91</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Some things to carry and how to carry them</td><td align='right'><a href='#things'>101</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Handicraft in the woods</td><td align='right'><a href='#handicraft'>107</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Outdoor dressing-table, camp-cupboard, hammock-frame, seat, and pot-hook</td><td align='right'><a href='#table'>109</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Camp-chair, biscuit-stick, and blanket camp-bed</td><td align='right'><a href='#chair'>111</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The birch-bark dish that will hold fluids. Details of making</td><td align='right'><a href='#bark'>115</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>A bear would rather be your friend than your enemy</td><td align='right'><a href='#bear'>118</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Making friends with a ruffed grouse</td><td align='right'><a href='#grouse'>120</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Found on the trail</td><td align='right'><a href='#found'>122</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Timber wolves</td><td align='right'><a href='#wolves'>124</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Baby moose</td><td align='right'><a href='#moose'>126</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Stalking wild birds</td><td align='right'><a href='#stalking'>128</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The fish-hawk will sometimes build near the ground</td><td align='right'><a href='#hawk'>131</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Antelopes of the western plains</td><td align='right'><a href='#antelope'>135</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Good food on the trail</td><td align='right'><a href='#food'>143</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Fruits found principally in the south and the middle west</td><td align='right'><a href='#fruit1'>147</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Fruits found principally in the north and the middle west</td><td align='right'><a href='#fruit2'>151</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Fruits common to most of the States</td><td align='right'><a href='#fruit3'>155</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Hickory nuts, sweet and bitter</td><td align='right'><a href='#nut1'>159</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Nuts with soft shells. Beechnut and chestnut</td><td align='right'><a href='#nut2'>161</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Poisonous and non-poisonous snakes</td><td align='right'><a href='#snakes'>173</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Plants poison to the touch</td><td align='right'><a href='#poison_plant1'>181</a><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xiii" id="Page_xiii">[xiii]</a></span></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Plants poison to the taste</td><td align='right'><a href='#poison_plant2'>185</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The white birch-tree makes a fine background for the beaver</td><td align='right'><a href='#beaver'>191</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Blacktail deer snapped with a background of snow</td><td align='right'><a href='#deer'>193</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The skunk</td><td align='right'><a href='#skunk'>195</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The porcupine stood in the shade but the background was light</td><td align='right'><a href='#porcupine'>197</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Photographing a woodcock from ambush</td><td align='right'><a href='#ambush'>199</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The country through which you pass, with a trailer in the foreground</td><td align='right'><a href='#country'>201</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Method of protecting roots to keep plants fresh while you carry them<br /> to camp for photographing</td><td align='right'><a href='#method'>203</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>A rowboat is a safer craft than a canoe</td><td align='right'><a href='#rowboat'>206</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Keep your body steady</td><td align='right'><a href='#steady'>208</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Canoeing on placid waters</td><td align='right'><a href='#placid'>210</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Bring your canoe up broadside to the shore</td><td align='right'><a href='#shore'>212</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>How to use the paddle and a flat-bottomed rowboat</td><td align='right'><a href='#paddle'>215</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The raft of logs</td><td align='right'><a href='#raft'>219</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Primitive weaving in raft building</td><td align='right'><a href='#weaving'>221</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Learn to be at home in the water</td><td align='right'><a href='#water'>225</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>For dinner</td><td align='right'><a href='#dinner'>229</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The veteran</td><td align='right'><a href='#veteran'>231</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Bends in knot tying</td><td align='right'><a href='#bends'>235</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Figure eight knot</td><td align='right'><a href='#eight'>237</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Overhand <ins title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'bowline'">bow-line</ins> knot</td><td align='right'><a href='#overhand'>237</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Underhand <ins title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'bowline'">bow-line</ins> knot</td><td align='right'><a href='#underhand'>239</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Sheepshank knot</td><td align='right'><a href='#sheepshank'>239</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Parcel slip-knot</td><td align='right'><a href='#parcel'>241</a><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xiv" id="Page_xiv">[xiv]</a></span></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Cross-tie parcel knot</td><td align='right'><a href='#cross'>241</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Fisherman's knot</td><td align='right'><a href='#fisherman'>241</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The halter, slip-knot, and hitching-tie</td><td align='right'><a href='#halter'>243</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>The fireman's lift</td><td align='right'><a href='#fireman'>245</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Aids in "first aid"</td><td align='right'><a href='#aids'>247</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Restoring respiration</td><td align='right'><a href='#restoring'>253</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>When darkness closes in</td><td align='right'><a href='#darkness'>259</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Wood-thrush</td><td align='right'><a href='#thrush'>261</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Yellow-throated vireo</td><td align='right'><a href='#vireo'>262</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Fire without matches</td><td align='right'><a href='#matches'>264</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Fire without the bow</td><td align='right'><a href='#bow'>267</a></td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xv" id="Page_xv">[xv]</a></span></p> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[1]</a></span><br /><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">[2]</a></span></p> +<h2>ON THE TRAIL</h2> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>CHAPTER I</h2> + +<h3>TRAILING</h3> + +<div class='center'><b>What the Outdoor World Can Do for Girls. How to Find the Trail and How +to Keep It</b></div> + + +<p>There is a something in you, as in every one, every man, woman, girl, +and boy, that requires the tonic life of the wild. You may not know it, +many do not, but there is a part of your nature that only the wild can +reach, satisfy, and develop. The much-housed, overheated, overdressed, +and over-entertained life of most girls is artificial, and if one does +not turn away from and leave it for a while, one also becomes greatly +artificial and must go through life not knowing the joy, the strength, +the poise that real outdoor life can give.</p> + +<p>What is it about a true woodsman that instantly compels our respect, +that sets him apart from the men who might be of his class in village or +town and puts him in a class by himself, though he may be exteriorly +rough and have little or no book education? The real Adirondack or the +North Woods guide, alert, clean-limbed, clear-eyed, hard-muscled, +bearing his pack-basket or duffel-bag on his back, doing all the hard +work of the camp, never loses his poise or the simple dignity which he +shares with all the things of the wild. It is bred in him, is a part of +himself and the life he leads. He is as conscious of his superior +knowledge of the woods as an astronomer <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[3]</a></span>is of his knowledge of the +stars, and patiently tolerates the ignorance and awkwardness of the +"tenderfoot" from the city. Only a keen sense of humor can make this +toleration possible, for I have seen things done by a city-dweller at +camp that would enrage a woodsman, unless the irresistibly funny side of +it made him laugh his inward laugh that seldom reaches the surface.</p> + +<p>To live for a while in the wild strengthens the muscles of your mind as +well as of your body. Flabby thoughts and flabby muscles depart together +and are replaced by enthusiasm and vigor of purpose, by strength of limb +and chest and back. To <i>have</i> seems not so desirable as to <i>be</i>. When +you have once come into sympathy with this world of the wild—which +holds our cultivated, artificial world in the hollow of its hand and +gives it life—new joy, good, wholesome, heartfelt joy, will well up +within you. New and absorbing interests will claim your attention. You +will breathe deeper, stand straighter. The small, petty things of life +will lose their seeming importance and great things will look larger and +infinitely more worth while. You will know that the woods, the fields, +the streams and great waters bear wonderful messages for you, and, +little by little, you will learn to read them.</p> + +<p>The majority of people who visit the up-to-date hotels of the +Adirondacks, which their wily proprietors call camps, may think they see +the wild and are living in it. But for them it is only a big +picnic-ground through which they rush with unseeing eyes and whose +cloisters they invade with unfeeling hearts, seemingly for the one +purpose of building a fire, cooking their lunch, eating it, and then +hurrying back to the comforts of the hotel and the gayety of hotel life.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[4]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="pass" id="pass"></a><img src="images/illus_p005-tb.jpg" alt="One can generally pass around obstructions like this on the trail." title="One can generally pass around obstructions like this on the trail." /></div> + +<div class='center'>One can generally pass around obstructions like this on the trail.</div> + +<p>At their careless and noisy approach the forest suddenly withdraws +itself into its deep reserve and reveals no secrets. It is as if they +entered an empty house and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[5]</a></span>passed through deserted rooms, but all the +time the intruders are stealthily watched by unseen, hostile, or +frightened eyes. Every form of moving life is stilled and magically +fades into its background. The tawny rabbit halts amid the dry leaves of +a fallen tree. No one sees it. The sinuous weasel slips silently under a +rock by the side of the trail and is unnoticed. The mother grouse +crouches low amid the underbrush and her little ones follow her example, +but the careless company has no time to observe and drifts quickly by. +Only the irrepressible red squirrel might be seen, but isn't, when he +loses his balance and drops to a lower branch in his efforts to miss +nothing of the excitement of the invasion.</p> + +<p>This is not romance, it is truth. To think sentimentally about nature, +to sit by a babbling brook and try to put your supposed feelings into +verse, will not help you to know the wild. The only way to cultivate the +sympathy and understanding which will enable you to feel its +heart-beats, is to go to it humbly, ready to see the wonders it can +show; ready to appreciate and love its beauties and ready to meet on +friendly and cordial terms the animal life whose home it is. The wild +world is, indeed, a wonderful world; how wonderful and interesting we +learn only by degrees and actual experience. It is free, but not +lawless; to enter it fully we must obey these laws which are slowly and +silently impressed upon us. It is a wholesome, life-giving, inspiring +world, and when you have learned to conform to its rules you are met on +every hand by friendly messengers to guide you and teach you the ways of +the wild: wild birds, wild fruits and plants, and gentle, furtive, wild +animals. You cannot put their messages into words, but you can feel +them; and then, suddenly, you no longer care for soft cushions and rugs, +for shaded lamps, dainty fare and finery, for paved streets and concrete +walks. You want to plant your feet upon <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[6]</a></span>the earth in its natural state, +however rugged or boggy it may be. You want your cushions to be of the +soft moss-beds of the piny woods, and, with the unparalleled sauce of a +healthy, hearty appetite, you want to eat your dinner out of doors, +cooked over the outdoor fire, and to drink water from a birch-bark cup, +brought cool and dripping from the bubbling spring.</p> + +<p>You want, oh! how you want to sleep on a springy bed of balsam boughs, +wrapped in soft, warm, woollen blankets with the sweet night air of all +outdoors to breathe while you sleep. You want your flower-garden, not +with great and gorgeous masses of bloom in evident, orderly beds, but +keeping always charming surprises for unexpected times and in +unsuspected places. You want the flowers that grow without your help in +ways you have not planned; that hold the enchantment of the wilderness. +Some people are born with this love for the wild, some attain it, but in +either case the joy is there, and to find it you must seek it. Your +chosen trail may lead through the primeval forests or into the great +western deserts or plains; or it may reach only left-over bits of the +wild which can be found at no great distance from home. Even a bit of +meadow or woodland, even an uncultivated field on the hilltop, will give +you a taste of the wild; and if you strike the trail in the right spirit +you will find upon arrival that these remnants of the wild world have +much to show and to teach you. There are the sky, the clouds, the +lungfuls of pure air, the growing things which send their roots where +they will and not in a man-ordered way. There is the wild life that +obeys no man's law: the insects, the birds, and small four-footed +animals. On all sides you will find evidences of wild life if you will +look for it. Here you may make camp for a day and enjoy that day as much +as if it were one of many in a several weeks' camping trip.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[7]</a></span></p> + +<p>However, this is not to be a book of glittering generalities but, as far +as it can be made, one of practical helpfulness in outdoor life; +therefore when you are told to strike the trail you must also be told +how to do it.</p> + + +<h3><b>When You Strike the Trail</b></h3> + +<p>For any journey, by rail or by boat, one has a general idea of the +direction to be taken, the character of the land or water to be crossed, +and of what one will find at the end. So it should be in striking the +trail. Learn all you can about the path you are to follow. Whether it is +plain or obscure, wet or dry; where it leads; and its length, measured +more by time than by actual miles. A smooth, even trail of five miles +will not consume the time and strength that must be expended upon a +trail of half that length which leads over uneven ground, varied by bogs +and obstructed by rocks and fallen trees, or a trail that is all up-hill +climbing. If you are a novice and accustomed to walking only over smooth +and level ground, you must allow more time for covering the distance +than an experienced person would require and must count upon the +expenditure of more strength, because your feet are not trained to the +wilderness paths with their pitfalls and traps for the unwary, and every +nerve and muscle will be strained to secure a safe foothold amid the +tangled roots, on the slippery, moss-covered logs, over precipitous +rocks that lie in your path. It will take time to pick your way over +boggy places where the water oozes up through the thin, loamy soil as +through a sponge; and experience alone will teach you which hummock of +grass or moss will make a safe stepping-place and will not sink beneath +your weight and soak your feet with hidden water. Do not scorn to learn +all you can about the trail you are to take, although your questions may +call forth <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[8]</a></span>superior smiles. It is not that you hesitate to encounter +difficulties, but that you may prepare for them. In unknown regions take +a responsible guide with you, unless the trail is short, easily +followed, and a frequented one. Do not go alone through lonely places; +and, being on the trail, keep it and try no explorations of your own, at +least not until you are quite familiar with the country and the ways of +the wild.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[9]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="trail" id="trail"></a> +<img src="images/illus_p009.png" width="600" height="338" alt="Difficulties of the Adirondack trail." title="Difficulties of the Adirondack trail." /> +<span class="caption">Difficulties of the Adirondack trail.<br /><br /> +Facsimile of drawing made by a trailer (not the author) after a day in +the wilds of an Adirondack forest. Not a good drawing, perhaps, but a +good illustration.</span> +</div> + + +<h3><br />Blazing the Trail</h3> + +<p>A woodsman usually blazes his trail by chipping with his axe the trees +he passes, leaving white scars on their trunks, and to follow such a +trail you stand at your first tree until you see the blaze on the next, +then go to that and look for the one farther on; going in this way from +tree to tree you keep the trail though it may, underfoot, be overgrown +and indistinguishable.</p> + +<p>If you must make a trail of your own, blaze it as you go by bending down +and breaking branches of trees, underbrush, and bushes. Let the broken +branches be on the side of bush or tree in the direction you are going, +but bent down away from that side, or toward the bush, so that the +lighter underside of the leaves will show and make a plain trail. Make +these signs conspicuous and close together, for in returning, a dozen +feet without the broken branch will sometimes confuse you, especially as +everything has a different look when seen from the opposite side. By +this same token it is a wise precaution to look back frequently as you +go and impress the homeward-bound landmarks on your memory. If in your +wanderings you have branched off and made ineffectual or blind trails +which lead nowhere, and, in returning to camp, you are led astray by one +of them, do not leave the false trail and strike out to make a new one, +but turn <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[10]</a></span>back and follow the false trail to its beginning, for it must +lead to the true trail again. <i>Don't lose sight of your broken +branches.</i><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[11]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="blaze" id="blaze"></a> +<img src="images/illus_p011.png" width="600" height="400" alt="Blazing the trail by bending down and breaking branches." title="Blazing the trail by bending down and breaking branches." /> +<span class="caption">Blazing the trail by bending down and breaking branches.</span> +</div> + +<p>If you carry a hatchet or small axe you can make a permanent trail by +blazing the trees as the woodsmen do. Kephart advises blazing in this +way: make one blaze on the side of the tree away from the camp and two +blazes on the side toward the camp. Then when you return you look for +the <i>one</i> blaze. In leaving camp again to follow the same trail, you +look for the <i>two</i> blazes. If you should lose the trail and reach it +again you will know to a certainty which direction to take, for two +blazes mean <i>camp on this side</i>; one blaze, <i>away from camp on this +side</i>.</p> + + +<h3><br />To Know an Animal Trail</h3> + +<p>To know an animal trail from one made by men is quite important. It is +easy to be led astray by animal trails, for they are often well defined +and, in some cases, well beaten. To the uninitiated the trails will +appear the same, but there is a difference which, in a recent number of +<i>Field and Stream</i>, Mr. Arthur Rice defines very clearly in this way: +"Men step <i>on</i> things. Animals step <i>over</i> or around things." Then again +an animal trail frequently passes under bushes and low branches of trees +where men would cut or break their way through. To follow an animal +trail is to be led sometimes to water, often to a bog or swamp, at times +to the animal's den, which in the case of a bear might not be exactly +pleasant.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="return" id="return"></a><img src="images/illus_p013-tb.jpg" alt="Returning to camp by the blazed trail." title="Returning to camp by the blazed trail." /></div> + +<div class='center'>Returning to camp by the blazed trail.<br /> +<i>Note the blazed trees.</i></div> + + +<h3><br />Lost in the Woods</h3> + +<p>We were in the wilderness of an Adirondack forest making camp for the +day and wanted to see the beaver-dam which, we were told, was on the +edge of a near-by <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[12]</a></span>lake. The guide was busy cooking dinner and we would +not wait for his leisure, but leaving the rest of the party, we started +off confidently, just two of us, down the perfectly plain trail. For a +short distance there was a beaten path, then, suddenly, the trail came +to an abrupt end. We looked this side and that. No trail, no appearance +of there ever having been one. With a careless wave of his arm, the +guide had said: "Keep in that direction." "That" being to the left, to +the left we therefore turned and stormed our way through thicket and +bramble, breaking branches as we went. Sliding down declivities, +scrambling over fallen trees, dipping beneath low-hung branches, we +finally came out upon the shore of the lake and found that we had struck +the exact spot where the beaver-dam was located.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[13]</a></span></p> + +<p>It was only a short distance from camp and it had not taken us long to +make it, but when we turned back we warmly welcomed the sight of our +blazed trail, for all else was strange and unfamiliar. Going there had +been glimpses of the water now and then to guide us, returning we had no +landmarks. Even my sense of direction, usually to be relied on and upon +which I had been tempted to depend solely, seemed to play me false when +we reached a place where our blazing was lost sight of. The twilight +stillness of the great forest enveloped us; there was no sign of our +camp, no sound of voices. A few steps to our left the ground fell away +in a steep precipice which, in going, we had passed unnoticed and which, +for the moment, seemed to obstruct our way. Then turning to the right we +saw a streak of light through the trees that looked, at first, like +water where we felt sure no water could be if we were on the right path; +but we soon recognized this as smoke kept in a low cloud by the +trees—the smoke of our camp-fire. That was our beacon, and we were soon +on the trail again and back in camp. This is not told <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[14]</a></span>as an adventure, +but to illustrate the fact that without a well-blazed trail it is easier +to become lost in a strange forest than to find one's way.</p> + +<p>You may strike the trail with the one object in view of reaching your +destination as quickly as possible. This will help you to become agile +and sure-footed, to cover long distances in a short time, but it will +not allow of much observation until your mind has become alert and your +eyes trained to see quickly the things of the forests and plains, and to +read their signs correctly. Unless there is necessity for haste, it is +better to take more time and look about you as you go. To hurry over the +trail is to lose much that is of interest and to pass by unseeingly +things of great beauty. When you are new to the trail and must hurry, +you are intent only on what is just before you—usually the feet of your +guide—or if you raise your eyes to glance ahead, you notice objects +simply as things to be reached and passed as quickly as possible. +Unhurried trailing will repay you by showing you what the world of the +wild contains.</p> + +<p>Walking slowly you can realize the solemn stillness of the forest, can +take in the effect of the gray light which enfolds all things like a +veil of mystery. You can stop to examine the tiny-leafed, creeping vines +that cover the ground like moss and the structure of the soft mosses +with fronds like ferns. You can catch the jewel-like gleam of the wood +flowers. You can breathe deeply and rejoice in the perfume of the balsam +and pine. You can rest at intervals and wait quietly for evidences of +the animal life that you know is lurking, unseen, all around you; and +you can begin to perceive the protecting spirit of the wild that hovers +over all.</p> + +<p>To walk securely, as the woodsmen walk, without tripping, stumbling, or +slipping, use the woodsmen's method of planting the entire foot on the +ground, with toes straight <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[15]</a></span>ahead, not turned out. If you put your heel +down first, while crossing on a slippery log as in ordinary walking, the +natural result will be a fall. With your entire foot as a base upon +which to rest, the body is more easily balanced and the foot less likely +to slip. When people slip and fall on the ice, it is because the edge of +the heel strikes the ice first and slides. The whole foot on the ice +would not slip in the same way, and very often not at all.</p> + +<p>Trailing does not consist merely in walking along a path or in making +one for yourself. It has a larger meaning than that and embraces various +lines of outdoor life, while it always presupposes movement of some +kind. In one sense going on the trail means going on the hunt. You may +go on the trail for birds, for animals, for insects, plants, or flowers. +You may trail a party of friends ahead of you, or follow a deer to its +drinking-place; and in all these cases you must look for the signs of +that which you seek.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[16]</a></span></p> + + +<h3><br />Footprints or Tracks</h3> +<div><a name="print1" id="print1"></a></div> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 261px;"> +<img src="images/illus_p017.png" width="261" height="400" alt="Footprints of animals." title="Footprints of animals." /> +<span class="caption">Footprints of animals.</span> +</div> +<p>In trailing animals look for footprints in soft earth, sand, or snow. +The hind foot of the muskrat will leave a print in the mud like that of +a little hand, and with it will be the fore-foot print, showing but four +short fingers, and generally the streaks where the hard tail drags +behind. <a href='#print1'>Fig. 4</a> shows what these look like. If you are familiar with the +dog track you will know something about the footprints of the fox, wolf, +and coyote, for they are much alike. <a href='#print2'>Fig. 9</a> gives a clean track of the +fox, but often there is the imprint of hairs between and around the +toes. A wolf track is larger and is like <a href='#print2'>Fig. 8</a>. The footprint of a deer +shows the cloven hoof, with a difference between the buck's and the +doe's. The doe's toes are pointed and, when not spread, the track is +almost heart-shaped (<a href='#print2'>Fig. 7</a>), while the buck has blunter, more rounded +toes, like <a href='#print2'>Fig. 10</a><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[17]</a></span>. The two round lobes are at the back of the foot, +the other end points in the direction the deer has taken. Sometimes you +will find deer tracks with the toes spread wide apart. That means the +animal has been running. All animals' toes spread more or less when they +run. A bear track is like <a href='#print2'>Fig. 11</a>, but a large bear often leaves other +evidences of his presence than his footprints. He will frequently turn a +big log over or tear one open in his search for ants. He will stand on +his hind legs and gnaw a hole in a dead tree or tall stump, and a +bee-tree will bear the marks of his climbing on its trunk. It is +interesting to find a tree with the scars of bruin's feet, made +prominent by small knobs where his claws have sunk into the bark. Each +scar swells and stands out like one of his toes. When you see bark +scraped off the trees some distance from the ground, you may be sure +that a horned animal has passed that way. Where the trees are not far +apart a wide-horned animal, like the bull moose, scrapes the bark with +his antlers as he passes.</p> +<div><a name="print2" id="print2"></a></div> +<div class="figright" style="width: 261px;"> +<img src="images/illus_p019.png" width="261" height="400" alt="Footprints of animals." title="Footprints of animals." /> +<div class='center'><ins title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'Foot-prints'">Footprints</ins> of animals.</div> +</div> + + +<p>The cat-like lynx leaves a cat-like track (<a href='#print1'>Fig. 6</a>), which shows no print +of the claws, and the mink's track is like <a href='#print1'>Fig. 2</a>. Rabbits' tracks are +two large oblongs, then two almost round marks. The oblongs are the +print of the large hind feet, which, with the peculiar gait of the +rabbit, always come first. The large, hind-feet tracks point the +direction the animal has taken. <a href='#print1'>Fig. 1</a> is the track of the caribou, and +shows the print of the dew-claws, which are the two little toes up high +at the back of the foot. It is when the earth is soft and the foot sinks +in deeply that the dew-claws leave a print, or perhaps when the foot +spreads wide in running.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[18]</a></span></p> + + +<p><a href='#print1'>Fig. 3</a> is the print of the foot of a red squirrel. <a href='#print1'>Fig. 5</a> is the +fisher's track, and <a href='#print2'>Fig. 12</a> is that of a sheep. Pig tracks are much like +those of sheep, but wider. When you have learned to recognize the +varying freshness of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[19]</a></span>tracks you will know how far ahead the animal +probably is. Other tracks you will learn as you become more familiar +with the animals, and you will also be able to identify the tracks of +the wild birds.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[20]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>CHAPTER II</h2> + +<h3>WOODCRAFT</h3> + +<div class='center'><b>Trees. Practical Use of Compass. Direction of Wind. Star Guiding. What +to Do When Lost in the Woods. How to Chop Wood. How to Fell Trees.</b></div> + + + +<h3><br /><b>Trees</b></h3> + +<p>While on the trail you will find a knowledge of trees most useful, and +you should be able to recognize different species by their manner of +growth, their bark and foliage.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="ink1" id="ink1"></a> +<img src="images/illus_p023.png" width="600" height="371" alt="Ink impressions of leaves." title="Ink impressions of leaves." /> +<span class="caption">Ink impressions of leaves.</span> +</div> + +<h3><br />Balsam-Fir</h3> + +<p>One of the most important trees for the trailer to know is the +balsam-fir, for of this the best of outdoor beds are made. In shape the +tree is like our Christmas-trees—in fact, many Christmas-trees are +balsam-fir.</p> + +<p>The sweet, aromatic perfume of the balsam needles is a great aid in +identifying it. The branches are flat and the needles appear to grow +from the sides of the stem. The little twist at the base of the needle +causes it to seem to grow merely in the straight, outstanding row on +each side of the stem; look closely and you will see the twist.</p> + +<p>The needles are flat and short, hardly one inch in length; they are +grooved along the top and the ends are decidedly blunt; in color they +are dark bluish-green on the upper side and silvery-white underneath. +The bark is gray, and you will find little gummy blisters on the +tree-trunk. From these the healing Canada balsam is <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[21]</a></span>obtained. The short +cones, often not over two inches in length, the longest seldom more than +four inches, stand erect on top of the small branches, and when young +are of a purplish color.</p> + +<p>From Maine to Minnesota the balsam-fir grows in damp woods and mountain +bogs, and you will find it southward along the Alleghany Mountains from +Pennsylvania to North Carolina.</p> + + +<h3><br />Spruce</h3> + +<p>The spruce, red, black, and white, differs in many respects from the +balsam-fir: the needles are sharp-pointed, not blunt, and instead of +being flat like the balsam-fir, they are four-sided and cover the +branchlet on all sides, causing it to appear rounded or bushy and not +flat. The spruce-gum sought by many is found in the seams of the bark, +which, unlike the smooth balsam-fir, is scaly and of a brown color. +Early spring is the time to look for spruce-gum. Spruce is a soft wood, +splits readily and is good for the frames and ribs of boats, also for +paddles and oars, and the bark makes a covering for temporary shelters.</p> + + +<h3><br />Hemlock</h3> + +<p>This tree is good for thatching a lean-to when balsam-fir is not to be +found, and its bark can be used in the way of shingles.</p> + +<p>The cones are small and hang down from the branches; they do not stand +up alert like those of the balsam-fir, nor are they purple in color, +being rather of a bright red-brown, and when very young, tan color. The +wood is not easy to split—don't try it, or your hatchet will suffer in +consequence and the pieces will be twisted as a usual thing. The +southern variety, however, often splits straight.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[22]</a></span></p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[23]</a></span></p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[24]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="ink3" id="ink3"></a> +<img src="images/illus_p025.png" width="600" height="334" alt="Ink impressions of leaves: White oak. Linden." title="Ink impressions of leaves: White oak. Linden." /> +<span class="caption">Ink impressions of leaves.</span> +</div> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[25]</a></span></p> +<div><a name="ink2" id="ink2"></a></div> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 262px;"> +<img src="images/illus_p024.png" width="262" height="400" alt="Balsam-Fir. Spruce. Hemlock." title="Balsam-Fir. Spruce. Hemlock." /> +<span class="caption">Balsam-Fir. Spruce. Hemlock.</span> +</div> +<div><a name="pine" id="pine"></a></div> +<div class="figright" style="width: 281px;"> +<img src="images/illus_p026.png" width="281" height="400" alt="Pitch-pine and cone. Sycamore leaf and fruit of sycamore." title="Pitch-pine and cone. Sycamore leaf and fruit of sycamore." /> +<span class="caption">Pitch-pine and cone. Sycamore leaf and fruit of sycamore.</span> +</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[26]</a></span></p> + + +<h3><br />Pine</h3> + +<p>The pine-tree accommodates itself to almost any kind of soil, high, low, +moist, or dry, often growing along the edge of the water.</p> + +<p>The gray pine is sometimes used for making the skeleton of a canoe or +other boats, and the white pine for the skin or covering of the skeleton +boat; but for you the pine will probably be most useful in furnishing +pine-knots, and its soft wood for kindling your outdoor fire.</p> + +<p>The trees mentioned abound in our northern forests. The birch in its +different varieties is there also, but rarely ventures into the densest +woods, preferring to remain near and on its outskirts. However, none of +these trees confine themselves strictly to one locality.</p> + +<p>Oaks, hickory, chestnut, maples, and sycamore are among the useful woods +for campers.</p> + +<p>Learn the quality and nature of the different trees. Each variety is +distinct from the others: some woods are easy to split, such as spruce, +chestnut, balsam-fir, etc.; some very strong, as locust, oak, hickory, +sugar-maple, etc.; then there are the hard and soft woods mentioned in +fire-making.</p> + +<p>When you once understand the characteristics of the different woods, and +their special qualifications, becoming familiar with only two or three +varieties at a time, the trees will be able to help you according to +their special powers. You would not go to a musician to have a portrait +painted, for while the musician might give you wonderful music he would +be helpless as far as painting a picture was concerned, and so it is +with trees. They cannot all give the same thing; if you want soft wood, +it is wasting your time to go to hardwood trees; they cannot give you +what they do not possess. Know the possibilities of trees and they will +not fail you.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[27]</a></span></p> + + +<h3><br />How to Chop Wood</h3> +<div><a name="axe" id="axe"></a></div> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 297px;"> +<img src="images/illus_p029.png" width="297" height="500" alt="How to use the axe." title="How to use the axe." /> +<span class="caption">How to use the axe.</span> +</div> + +<p>Trailing and camping both mean wood-chopping to some extent for +shelters, fires, etc., and the girl of to-day should understand, as did +the girls of our pioneer families, how to handle properly a hatchet, or +in this case we will make it a belt axe. There is a small hatchet +modelled after the Daniel Boone tomahawk, generally known as the "camp +axe." It is thicker, narrower, and has a sharper edge than an ordinary +hatchet. It comes of a size to wear on the belt and must be securely +protected by a well-fitted strong leather sheath; otherwise it will +endanger not only the life of the girl who carries it, but also the +lives of her companions. With the camp axe (hatchet) you can cut down +small trees, chop <ins title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'fire-wood'">firewood</ins>, blaze trees, drive down pegs or stakes, and +chop kindling-wood. Every time you want to use the hatchet take the +precaution to examine it thoroughly and reassure yourself that the tool +is in good condition and that the <i>head</i> is <i>on firm</i> and <i>tight</i>; be +positive of this.</p> + +<p>Great caution must be taken when chopping kindling-wood, as often +serious accidents occur through ignorance or carelessness. Do not raise +one end of a stick up on a log with the other end down on the ground and +then strike the centre of the stick a sharp blow with the sharp edge of +your hatchet; the stick will break, but one end usually flies up with +considerable force and very often strikes the eye of the worker, ruining +the sight forever. Take the blunt end of your hatchet and do not give a +very hard blow on the stick you wish to break; exert only force +sufficient to break it partially, merely enough to enable you to finish +the work with your hands and possibly one knee. It may require a little +more time, but your eyes will be unharmed, which makes it worth while.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[28]</a></span> +Often children use a heavy stone to break kindling-wood, with no +disastrous results that I know of. The heavy stone does not seem to +cause the wood to fly upward.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[29]</a></span></p> + + +<h3><br />How to Chop Logs</h3> + +<p>Practise on small, slender logs, chopping them in short lengths until +you understand something of the woodsman's art of "logging up a tree"; +then and not until then should you attempt to cut heavier wood.</p> + +<p>If you are sure-footed and absolutely certain that you can stand firmly +on the log without teetering or swaying when leaning over, do so. You +can then chop one side of the log half-way through and turn around and +chop the other side until the second notch or "kerf" is cut through to +the first one on the opposite side, and the two pieces fall apart. While +working stand on the log with feet wide apart and chop the <i>side</i> of the +log (not the top) on the space in front between your feet. Make your +first chip quite long, and have it equal in length the diameter of the +log. If the chip is short, the opening of the kerf will be narrow and +your hatchet will become wedged, obliging you to double your labor by +enlarging the kerf. Greater progress will be made by chopping diagonally +across the grain of the wood, and the work will be easier. It is +difficult to cut squarely against the grain and this is always avoided +when possible. After you have cut the first chip in logging up a tree, +chop on the base of the chip, swinging your hatchet from the opposite +direction, and the chip will fall to the ground.</p> + +<p>Having successfully chopped off one piece of the log, it will be a +simple matter to cut off more. Chop slowly, easily, and surely. Don't be +in a hurry and exhaust yourself; only a novice overexerts and tries to +make a deep cut with the hatchet.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[30]</a></span></p> + +<p>Be careful of the blade of your hatchet; keep it free from the ground +when chopping, to avoid striking snags, stones, or other things liable +to nick or dull the edge.</p> + + +<h3><br />How to Fell a Tree</h3> + +<p>Content yourself with chopping down only slender trees, mere saplings, +at first, and as you acquire skill, slightly heavier trees can be +felled. Begin in the right way with your very first efforts and follow +the woodsman's method.</p> + +<p>Having selected the tree you desire to cut down, determine in which +direction you want it to fall and mark that side, but first make sure +that when falling, the tree will not lodge in another one near by or +drop on one of the camp shelters. See that the way is free of hindrance +before cutting the tree, also <i>clear the way</i> for the swing of your +extended <i>hatchet</i>. If there are obstacles, such as vines, bushes, limbs +of other trees, or rocks, which your hatchet might strike as you raise +and lower it while at work, clear them all away, making a generous open +space on all sides, overhead, on the right and left side, and below the +swing of the hatchet. Take no chance of having an accident, as would +occur should the hatchet become entangled or broken.</p> + +<p>You may have noticed that the top surface of most stumps has a +splintered ridge across its centre, and on one side of the ridge the +wood is lower than on the other; this is because of the manner in which +a woodsman fells a tree. If he wants the tree to fall toward the west he +marks the west side of the trunk; then he marks the top and bottom of +the space he intends chopping out for the first kerf or notch (<a href='#axe'>Fig. 13</a>, +<i>A</i> and <i>B</i>), making the length of space a trifle longer than one-half +of the tree diameter. The kerf is chopped out by cutting first from the +top <i>A</i>, then from the bottom <i>B</i> (<a href='#axe'>Fig. 14</a>). When the first kerf <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[31]</a></span>is +finished and cut half-way through the tree, space for the kerf on the +opposite side of the tree is marked a few inches higher than the first +one (<a href='#axe'>Fig. 15</a>, <i>C</i> and <i>D</i>) and then it also is cut (<a href='#axe'>Fig. 16</a>).</p> + +<p>After you have chopped the two kerfs in a tree, you will know when it is +about to fall by the creaking and the slight movement of its top. Step +to <i>one side</i> of the falling tree, never behind or in front of it; +either of the last two ways would probably mean death: if in front, the +tree would fall on you, and if at the back, you would probably be +terribly injured if not killed, as trees often kick backward with +tremendous force as they go down; so be on your guard, keep cool, and +deliberately step to the side of the tree and watch it fall.</p> + +<p>Choose a quiet day, when there is no wind, for tree-felling. You cannot +control the wind, and it may control your tree.</p> + +<p>Never allow your hatchet to lie on the ground, a menace to every one at +camp, but have a particular log or stump and always strike the blade in +this wood. Leave your hatchet there, where it will not be injured, can +do no harm, and you will always know where to find it (<a href='#axe'>Fig. 17</a>).</p> + + +<h3><br />Etiquette of the Wild</h3> + +<p>Translated this means "<i>hands off</i>." The unwritten law of the woods is +that personal property cached in trees, underbrush, beneath stones, or +hidden underground must never be <i>taken</i>, <i>borrowed</i>, <i>used</i>, or +<i>molested</i>.</p> + +<p>Canoes and oars will often be discovered left by owners, sometimes +fastened at the water's edge, again suspended from trees, and the +temptation to borrow may be strong, but remember such an act would be +dishonorable and against the rules that govern the outdoor world.</p> + +<p>Provisions, tools, or other articles found in the forests <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[32]</a></span>should be +respected and allowed to remain where they are. It is customary for +campers to cache their belongings with the assurance that forest +etiquette will be held inviolate and their goods remain unmolested.</p> + +<p>Every one has the privilege of examining and enjoying the beauties of +mosses, berries, and wild flowers, but do not take these treasures from +their homes to die and be thrown aside. Love them well enough to let +them stay where they are for others also to enjoy, unless you need +specimens for some important special study.</p> + +<p>A man who had always lived in the Adirondack forests, and at present is +proprietor of an Adirondack hotel, recently reforested many acres of his +wooded wild lands by planting through the forests little young trees, +some not over one foot high, and his indignation was great when he +discovered that many of his guests when off on tramps returned laden +with these baby trees, which were easily pulled up by the roots because +so lately planted.</p> + + +<h3><br />Finding Your Way by Natural Signs and the Compass</h3> + +<p>An important phase of woodcraft is the ability to find your way in the +wilderness by means of natural signs as well as the compass. If, +however, you do not know at what point of the compass from you the camp +lies, the signs can be of no avail. Having this knowledge, the signs +will be invaluable.</p> + +<p><i>Get your bearings before leaving camp.</i> Do not depend upon any member +of the party, but know for yourself.</p> + +<p>If you have a map giving the topography of land surrounding the +camping-grounds, consult it. Burn into your memory the direction <i>from</i> +camp of outlying landmarks, those near and those as far off as you can +see in all directions. The morning you leave camp, ascertain the +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[33]</a></span>direction of the wind and notice particularly the sun and shadows. If +it is early morning, face the sun and you will be looking toward the +east. Stretch out both arms at your sides and point with your +index-fingers; your right finger will point to the south, your left to +the north, and your back will be toward the west. What landmarks do you +see east of the camp? South? North? West? And from what point of the +compass does the wind blow? If it comes from the west and you trail +eastward, the wind will strike your back going away from camp and should +strike your face returning, provided its direction does not change. +Again, if you go east, your camp will lie west of you, and your homeward +path must be westward. Consult your compass and know exactly which +direction you take when leaving camp, and blaze your trail as you go, +looking backward frequently to see how landmarks should appear as you +face them returning.</p> + +<p>With all these friends to guide you, first, the map; second, sun; third, +shadows; fourth, wind; fifth, compass; sixth, your bent-twig blazing, +there will be little, if any, danger of being lost. But you must +constantly keep on the alert and refer frequently to these guides, +especially when deflecting from the course first taken after leaving +camp. At every turning, stop and take your bearings anew; you cannot be +too careful.</p> + +<p>These signs are for daylight; at night the North Star will be your +guide.</p> + + +<h3><br />Sunlight and Shadow</h3> + +<p>Bearing in mind that the sun rises in the east and sets in the west, it +will be comparatively easy to keep your right course by consulting the +sun. A fair idea may also be gained of the time of day by the length of +shadows, if you remember that shadows are long in the morning <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[34]</a></span>and +continue to grow shorter until midday, when they again begin to +lengthen, growing longer and longer until night.</p> + +<p>To find the direction of the sun on a cloudy day, hold a flat splinter +or your knife blade vertically, so that it is absolutely straight up and +down. Place the point of the blade on your thumb-nail, watch-case, or +other glossy surface; then turn the knife or splinter around until the +full shadow of the flat of blade or splinter falls on the bright +surface, telling the location of the sun.</p> + +<p>An open spot where the sun can cast a clear shadow, and an hour when the +sun is not immediately overhead, will give best results.</p> + + +<h3><br />Wind</h3> + +<p>The wind generally blows in the same direction all day, and if you learn +to understand its ways, the wind will help you keep the right trail. +Make a practise of testing the direction of the wind every morning. +Notice the leaves on bush and tree, in what direction they move. Place a +few bits of paper on your open hand and watch in which way the wind +carries them; if there is no paper, try the test with dry leaves, grass, +or anything light and easily carried by the breeze. Smoke will also show +the direction of the wind.</p> + +<p>When the wind is very faint, put your finger in your mouth, wet it on +all sides, and hold it up; the side on which the wind blows will feel +cool and tell from what quarter the wind comes: if on the east side of +your finger, the wind blows from the east, and so on. Keep testing the +direction of the wind as you trail, and if at any time it cools a +different side of the finger, you will know that you are not walking in +the same direction as when you left camp and must turn until the wet +finger tells you <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[35]</a></span>which way to go. The wind is a good guide so long as +it keeps blowing in the same direction as when you left camp.</p> + + +<h3><br />Use of Compass</h3> + +<p>Should you be on the trail and sudden storm-clouds appear, the sun +cannot help you find your way; the shadows have gone. Moss on +tree-trunks is not an infallible guide and you must turn to the compass +to show the way, but unless you understand its language you will not +know what it is telling you. Learn the language before going to camp; it +is not difficult.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 287px;"><a name="compass" id="compass"></a> +<img src="images/illus_p037compass.png" width="287" height="300" alt="Mariner's Compass." title="Mariner's Compass." /> +<span class="caption">Mariner's Compass.</span> +</div> + +<p>Hold the compass out in a <i>level position</i> directly in front of you; be +<i>sure</i> it is level; then decide to go north. Consult the compass and +ascertain in which direction the north lies. The compass needle points +directly north with the north end of the needle; this end is usually +black, sometimes pearl. Let your eye follow straight along the line +pointed out by the needle; as you look ahead select a landmark—tree, +rock, pond, or whatever may lie in that direction. Choose an object +quite a distance off on the imaginary line, go directly toward it, and +when intervening objects obscure the landmark, refer to your compass. If +you have turned from the pathway north, face around and readjust your +steps in the right direction. Do not let over two minutes pass without +making sure by the compass that you are going on the right path, going +directly north.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 284px;"> +<img src="images/illus_p037compass2.png" width="284" height="281" alt="Common Compass." title="Common Compass." /> +<span class="caption">Common Compass.</span> +</div> + +<p>Practise using the compass for a guide until you understand it; have +faith in it and you may fearlessly trust to its guidance. Try going +according to various points of the compass: suppose you wish to go +southeast, the compass tells you this as plainly as the north; try it. +Naturally, if you go to the southeast away from camp, return<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[36]</a></span>ing will +be in exactly the opposite direction, and coming back to camp you must +walk northwest. After learning to go in a straight line, guided entirely +by the compass, try a zigzag path. A group of girls will find it good +sport to practise trailing with the compass, and they will at the same +time learn how to avoid being lost and how to help others find their +way. It is possible to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[37]</a></span></p> + + +<h3><br />Make a Compass of Your Watch</h3> + +<p>Besides keeping you company with its friendly nearness, its ticking and +its ready answers to your questions regarding the time, a watch in the +woods and fields has another use, for it can be used as a compass. It +will show just where the south is, then by turning your back on the +south you face the north, and on your right is the east and on your left +the west. These are the rules:</p> + +<p>With your watch in a horizontal position point the hour-hand to the sun, +and if before noon, half-way between the hour hand and 12 is due south. +If it is afternoon calculate the opposite way. For instance, if at 8 +<span class="smcap">a. m.</span> you point the hour-hand to the sun, 10 will point to the +south, for that is half-way between 8 and 12. If at 2 <span class="smcap">p. m.</span> you +point the hour-hand to the sun, look back to 12, and half the distance +will be at 1, therefore 1 points to the south.</p> + +<p>An easy way to get the direction of the sun without looking directly at +it is by means of the shadow of a straight, slender stick or grass stem +thrown on the horizontal face of your watch. Hold the stick upright with +the lower end touching the watch at the <i>point</i> of the hour-hand, then +turn the watch until the shadow of the stick falls along the hour-hand. +This will point the hand undeviatingly toward the sun.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[38]</a></span></p> + + +<h3><br />Mountain Climbing</h3> + +<p>The campers should go together to climb the mountain, never one girl +alone.</p> + +<p>Before starting, find a strong stick to use as a staff; stow away some +luncheon in one of your pockets; see that your camera is in perfect +order, ready to use at a moment's notice; that your water-proof +match-box is in your pocket filled with safety matches, your +pocket-knife safe with you, also watch and compass, and that the tin cup +is on your belt. Your whistle being always hung around your neck will, +of course, be there as usual.</p> + +<p>When you are ready, stand still and look about you once more to make +sure of your bearings; close your eyes and tell yourself exactly what +you have seen. After leaving camp and arriving at the foot of the +mountain, take your bearings anew; then look up ahead and select a +certain spot which you wish to reach on the upward trail. Having this +definite object in view will help in making better progress and save +your walking around in a circle, which is always the tendency when in a +strange place and intervening trees or elevations obstruct the view, or +when not sure of the way and trying to find it.</p> + +<p>Begin blazing the trail at your first step up the mountain side. Even +though there may be a trail already, you cannot be sure that it will +continue; it is much safer to depend upon your own blazing.</p> + +<p>Often in trailing along the mountain you will find huge rocks and steep +depressions, or small lakes which you cannot cross over but must go +around, and in so doing change your direction, perhaps strike off at an +angle. Before making the detour, search out some large landmark, readily +recognized after reaching the other side of the obstruction, a tall, +peculiarly shaped tree or other natural <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[39]</a></span>feature. Now is the time to try +earnestly to keep the landmark in sight as long as possible and to be +able to recognize it when you see it again. Watch your compass and the +sun that you may continue in the right direction after circling the +obstruction. Go slow in climbing, take your time and don't get out of +breath.</p> + +<p>On many mountains the possibility of unexpected fogs exists, and safety +requires that the party be linked together with a soft rope; the same +precaution should be taken when the trail is very rough, steep, and +rocky. The camper at the head of the line should tie the rope in a +bow-line around her waist, with knot on left side, and eight or ten feet +from her the next girl should link herself to the rope in the same +manner; then another girl, and another, until the entire party is on the +rope.</p> + +<p>The leader starts on the trail and the others, holding fast to their +staffs, carefully follow, each one cautious to keep the rope stretching +out in front of her rather taut; then if one girl stumbles the others +brace themselves and keep her from falling.</p> + +<p>When descending the mountain, be careful to get a firm footing. Instead +of facing the trail, it is safer to turn sideways, so that you can place +the entire foot down and not risk the toes only, or the heels. Often +coming down either a steep hill or a mountain is more difficult than +going up.</p> + + +<h3><br />Lost in the Woods</h3> + +<p>It is not at all probable that you will lose your way while on the +trail, but if you should find yourself lost in the woods or in the open, +the first thing to do is to remember that a brave girl does not get into +a panic and so rob herself of judgment and the power to think clearly +and act quickly. Believe firmly that you are <i>safe</i>, then sit <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[40]</a></span>down +quietly and think out a plan of finding your way. Try to remember from +which direction you have come and to recall landmarks. If you cannot do +this, do not be frightened and do not allow any thought of possible harm +to get a foothold in your mind. If there is a hill near, from which you +can see any distance, climb that and get an outlook. You may be able to +see the smoke of your camp-fire, which, after all, cannot be so far +away. You may find a landmark that you do remember. If you see nothing +which you can recognize, make a signal flag of your handkerchief and put +it up high, as high as you can. Your friends will be looking for that. +Then give the lost signal, one long blast with your whistle, and after a +short pause follow with two more blasts in quick succession. If you have +no whistle shout, loud and long, then wait a while, keeping eyes and +ears open to see and hear answering signals. If there is none, again +shout the lost signal and continue the calls every little while for +quite a time. Another call for help is the ascending smoke of three +fires. This, of course, is for daylight. Build your fires some distance +apart, twenty-five feet or more, that the smoke from each may be clearly +seen alone, not mingled with the rest. Aim to create <i>smoke</i> rather than +flame; a slender column of smoke can be seen a long distance, therefore +the fire need not be large. Choose for your fires as clear a space and +as high an elevation as can be found, and in the relief and excitement +of rescue <i>do not forget to extinguish every spark</i> before leaving the +ground.</p> + +<p>If you decide to keep moving, blaze your trail as you go, so that it may +be followed and also that you may know if you cross it again yourself. +You can blaze the trail by breaking or bending small branches on trees +and bushes, or by small strips torn from your handkerchief and tied +conspicuously on twigs. If you are where there <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[41]</a></span>are no trees or +undergrowth, build small piles of stones or little hills of earth at +intervals to mark your trail.</p> + +<p>If night overtakes you, look for the <i>North Star</i>. That will help if you +know at what point of the compass your camp lies, and if you remember +whether your course in leaving camp was to the north, south, east, or +west, you can calculate pretty accurately whether the camp is to the +north, south, east, or west of you.</p> + +<p>In case the night must be spent where you are, go about making a +shelter, prepare as comfortable a bed as possible, and do <i>not</i> be +afraid. You will probably be found before morning, and you must be found +in good physical condition.</p> + +<p>If you can kindle a fire, do it; that will help to guide your friends +and will ward off wild creatures that might startle you. Keep your fire +going all night and take care that it does not spread.</p> + +<p>It is better to remain quietly in one spot all night than to wander +about in the dark and perhaps stumble upon dangerous places. If, when +you find the points of the compass by the <i>North Star</i>, you mark them +plainly on a stone or fallen log, they will be a ready guide for you as +soon as daylight breaks.</p> + +<p>The last word on this subject is: <i>Do not be afraid</i>.</p> + + +<h3><br />To Find Your Way by the North Star</h3> + +<p>At night you will have the same reliable guide that has ever been the +mariner's friend, and if you do not know this star guide, lose no time +in finding it.</p> + +<p>Polaris or pole-star is known generally as North Star, and this star is +most important to the outdoor girl. At all times the North Star marks +the north, its position never changes, and seeing that star and <i>knowing +it</i>, you will always know the points of the compass. Face the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[42]</a></span> North +Star and you face the north. At your right hand is the east, at your +left hand is the west, and at your back is the south.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/illus_p037star.png" width="600" height="376" alt="The North Star." title="The North Star." /> +<span class="caption">The North Star.</span> +</div> + +<p>The North Star does not look very important because it is not very +bright or very large, and were it not for the help of the Big Dipper, +which every one knows, the North Star would not be easy to find. The +diagram given on page 37 shows the relative position of the stars and +will help you to find the North Star. The two stars forming the front +side of the bowl of the Great Dipper point almost in a direct line to +the North Star, which is the last one in the handle of the Little +Dipper, or the tail of the Little Bear, which means the same thing.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[43]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>CHAPTER III</h2> + +<h3>CAMPING</h3> + +<div class='center'><b>Camp Sites. Water. Wood. Tents. Shelters. Lean-Tos. Fires. Cooking. +Safety and Protection. Sanitation. Camp Spirit.</b></div> + + +<h3><br />Information</h3> + +<p>Whether your camp is to be for one day, one week, or a longer period of +time, the first question to be decided is: "Where shall we go?" If you +know of no suitable spot, inquire of friends, and even if they have not +personally enjoyed the delights of camping and sleeping in the open, one +or more of them will probably know of some acquaintance who will be glad +to give the information. Write to the various newspapers, magazines, +railroads, and outdoor societies for suggestions. The Geological Survey +of the United States at Washington, D. C., will furnish maps giving +location and extent of forests and water-ways, also location and +character of roads; you can obtain the maps for almost any part of every +State. Most public automobile houses supply maps of any desired region. +Send letters of inquiry to these sources of information, and in this way +you will probably learn of many "just the right place" localities. +Select a number of desirable addresses, investigate them, and make your +own choice of location, remembering that the first three essentials for +a camp are good ground, water, and wood; the rest is easy, for these +three form the foundation for camping.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[44]</a></span></p> + + +<h3><br />Location</h3> + +<p>Wherever you go, choose a dry spot, preferably in an open space near +wooded land. Avoid hollows where the water will run into your shelters +in wet weather; let your camp be so located that in case of rain the +water will drain down away from it. Remember this or you may find your +camp afloat upon a temporary lake or swamp should a storm arise.</p> + + +<h3><br />Water</h3> + +<p>Pure drinking water you <i>must</i> have, it is of <i>vital</i> importance, so be +sure to pitch your camp within near walking distance of a good spring, a +securely covered well, or other supply of pure water.</p> + +<p>Henry David Thoreau's method of obtaining clear water from a pond whose +surface was covered with leaves, etc., was to push his pail, without +tipping it in the least, straight down under the water until the top +edge was below the surface several inches, then quickly lift it out; in +doing this the overflow would carry off all leaves and twigs, leaving +the remaining water in the pail clear and good. But you must first be +sure that the pond contains pure water under the floating débris.</p> + +<p>Always be cautious about drinking water from rivers, streams, ponds, and +lakes though they may appear ever so clear and tempting, for the purity +is by no means assured, and to drink from these sources may cause +serious illness. Unless you are absolutely sure that water is free from +impurities, <i>boil it</i>; then it will be safe to use for drinking and +cooking.</p> + +<p>Next in importance to good water is good fire-wood and woodsy material +for shelters and beds. Bear this in mind when deciding upon the site for +your camp.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[45]</a></span></p> + + +<h3><br />Companions</h3> + +<p>Because your companions can make or mar the happiness in camp, it is +safer to have in your party only those girls who will take kindly to the +camp spirit of friendly helpfulness, those always ready to laugh and +treat discomforts as jokes. This means that though fun-loving and full +of buoyancy and life, each girl will willingly do her part and assume +her share of responsibilities.</p> + + +<h3><br />Safeguarding</h3> + +<p>You should also count among your companions two or more camp +directors—possibly mothers of the girls, teachers, or older friends of +whom the parents approve—who will enter heartily into all phases of +outdoor life and while really being one with you in sport and work, will +at the same time keep careful oversight and assure protection.</p> + +<p>Avoid localities where there is a possibility of tramps or undesirable +characters of any description, and do not wander from camp alone or +unaccompanied by one of the directors. If your camp is in the forest it +will be the part of wisdom to secure also a reliable guide who knows the +forest ways.</p> + + +<h3><br />The Start</h3> + +<p>The day before you leave for your camping-ground, have everything in +readiness that there may be no delay when it is time to go. Be prompt, +for you want to play fair and not keep the other girls waiting, causing +them to lose valuable time.</p> + +<p>The stimulating exhilaration which comes with trailing through the +forests to camp, the keen delight of adventure, the charm of the +wilderness, the freedom and won<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[46]</a></span>der of living in the woods, all make for +the health and happiness of the girl camper, and once experienced, ever +after with the advent of spring comes the call of the untrammelled life +in the big outdoors.</p> + + +<h3><br />The One-Day Camp</h3> + +<p>Even a one-day camp fills the hours with more genuine lasting enjoyment +than girls can find in other ways; there is a charm about it which +clings in your memory, making a joy, later, of the mere thought and +telling of the event.</p> + +<p>That every moment of the day may be filled full of enjoyment for all, +have a good programme, some definite, well-thought-out plan of +activities and sports previously prepared, and if possible let every +girl know beforehand just what she is to do when all arrive at camp.</p> + +<p>With an older person in charge, the party could be divided, according to +its size, into different groups, and as soon as the grounds are reached +the groups should begin the fun of preparing for the camp dinner.</p> + +<p>If the party consists of eight, two can gather fire-wood, two build the +fireplace, two unpack the outfits, placing the provisions and cooking +utensils in order conveniently near the fire, and two can bring the +drinking water and cooking water.</p> + +<p>Provisions and cooking utensils should be divided into as many packs as +there are campers, and every camper carry a pack. Count in the outfit +for each one a tin cup, preferably with open handle for wearing over +belt.</p> + +<p>In the one-day camp very few cooking utensils are needed; they may +consist of two tin pails, one for drinking water, the other for boiling +water, one coffee-pot for cocoa, one frying-pan for flapjacks or eggs, +one large kitchen knife for general use, and one large spoon for +stirring batter and cocoa.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[47]</a></span></p> + + +<h3><br />Camp Dinner</h3> + +<p>Counting on a keen outdoor appetite for wholesome substantials, the +provision list includes only plain fare, such as: Lamb chops, or thinly +sliced bacon packed in oil-paper. Dry cocoa to which sugar has been +added, carried in can or stout paper bag. One can of condensed milk, +unsweetened, to be diluted with water according to directions on can. +Butter in baking-powder can. Dry flour mixed with salt and baking-powder +in required proportions for flapjacks, packed in strong paper bag and +carried in one of the tin pails. Bread in loaf wrapped in wax-paper. +Potatoes washed and dried ready to cook, packed in paper bag or carried +in second tin pail. Pepper and salt each sealed in separate marked +envelopes; when needed, perforate paper with big pin and use envelopes +as shakers. One egg for batter, buried in the flour to prevent breaking, +and one small can of creamy maple sugar, soft enough to spread on hot +cakes, or a can of ordinary maple syrup.</p> + + +<h3><br />The Clean-Up</h3> + +<p>While resting after dinner is the time for story-telling; then, before +taking part in sports of any kind, every particle of débris, even small +bits of egg-shell and paper, should be gathered up and burned until not +a vestige remains. To be "good sports," thought must be taken for the +next comers and the camping-ground left in perfect order, absolutely +free from litter or débris of any kind.</p> + +<p>When breaking camp be <i>sure</i> to soak the fire with water again and +again. It is criminal to leave any coals or even a spark of the fire +smouldering.</p> + +<p>Be <i>positive</i> that the <i>fire is out</i>.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[48]</a></span></p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[49]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter"><a name="permanent" id="permanent"></a><img src="images/illus_p049-tb.jpg" alt="A permanent camp." title="A permanent camp." /></div> +<div class='center'>A permanent camp.</div> + + +<h3><br />Shelters and Tents. Lean-To</h3> + +<p>For a fixed camp of longer or shorter duration your home will be under +the shelter of boughs, logs, or canvas. The home of green boughs is +considered by many the ideal of camp shelters. This you can make for +yourself. It is a simple little two-sided, slanting roof and back and +open-front shed, made of the material of the woods and generally known +as a lean-to, sometimes as Baker tent when of canvas.</p> + +<p>There are three ways of erecting the front framework.</p> +<div><a name="shelter" id="shelter"></a></div> +<div class="figright" style="width: 270px;"> +<img src="images/illus_p051.png" width="270" height="400" alt="Outdoor shelters." title="Outdoor shelters." /> +<span class="caption">Outdoor shelters.</span> +</div> + +<p>The first is to find two trees standing about seven feet apart with +convenient branches down low enough to support the horizontal top cross +pole when laid in the crotches. Lacking the proper trees, the second +method is to get two strong, straight, forked poles of green wood and +drive them down into the ground deep enough to make them stand firm and +upright by themselves the required distance apart. The third way is to +reinforce the uprights by shorter forked stakes driven firmly into the +ground and braced against the uprights, but this is not often necessary.</p> + +<p>Having your uprights in place, extending above ground five feet or more, +lay a top pole across, fitting its ends into the forked tops of the +uprights. Against this top pole rest five or six slender poles at +regular distances apart, one end of each against the top pole and the +other end on the ground slanting outward and backward sufficiently to +give a good slope and allow sleeping space beneath. At right angles to +the slanting poles, lay across them other poles, using the natural pegs +or stumps left on the slanting poles by lopped-off branches, as braces +to hold the cross poles in place (<a href='#shelter'>Fig. 18</a>).<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[50]</a></span></p> + + + +<p>When building the frame be sure to place the slanting <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[51]</a></span>poles so that +the little stumps left on them will turn <i>up</i> and not down, that they +may hold the cross poles. Try to have spaces between cross poles as +regular as possible. A log may be rolled up against the ground ends of +the slanting poles to prevent their slipping, though this is rarely +necessary, for they stand firm as a rule.</p> + +<p>You can cover the frame with bark and then thatch it, which will render +the shelter better able to withstand a storm, or you may omit the bark, +using only the thatch as a covering. Put on very thick, this should make +the lean-to rain-proof.</p> + +<p>With small tips of branches from trees, preferably balsam, hemlock, or +other evergreens, begin thatching your shelter. Commence at the bottom +of the lean-to, and hook on the thatch branches close together all the +way across the lowest cross pole, using the stumps of these thatch +branches as hooks to hold the thatch in place on the cross pole (<a href='#shelter'>Fig. 19</a>). Overlap the lower thatches as you work along the next higher cross +pole, like shingles on a house, and continue in this way, overlapping +each succeeding cross pole with an upper row of thatch until the top is +reached. Fill in the sides thick with branches, boughs, or even small, +thick trees.</p> + +<p>The lean-to frame can be covered with your poncho in case of necessity, +but boughs are much better.</p> + + +<h3><br />Permanent Camp. Lean-To. Open Camp</h3> + +<p>Another kind of lean-to intended for a permanent camp is in general use +throughout the Adirondacks. It is built of substantial good-sized logs +put together log-cabin fashion, with open front, slanting roof, and low +back (<a href='#shelter'>Fig. 20</a>). This shelter has usually a board floor raised a few +inches above the ground and covered thick, at least a foot deep, with +balsam. Overspread with <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[52]</a></span>blankets, the soft floor forms a comfortable +bed. A log across the front of the floor keeps the balsam in place and +forms a seat for the campers in the evenings when gathered for a social +time before the fire. The roof of the log lean-to can be either of +boards or well-thatched poles which have first been overlaid with bark.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[53]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="dining" id="dining"></a> +<img src="images/illus_p053.png" width="600" height="389" alt="Dining-tent, handy racks, and log bedstead." title="Dining-tent, handy racks, and log bedstead." /> +<span class="caption">Dining-tent, handy racks, and log bedstead.</span> +</div> + +<p>One of the most comfortable and delightful of real forest camps which I +have ever been in, was a permanent camp in the Adirondacks owned and run +by one of the best of Adirondack guides. The camp consisted of several +shelters and two big permanent fireplaces.</p> + +<p>Over the ground space for the large tent outlined with logs was a strong +substantial rustic frame, built of material at hand in the forest and +intended to last many seasons (<a href='#shelter'>Fig. 21</a>). The shelter boasted of two +springy, woodsy beds, made of slender logs laid crosswise and raised +some inches from the ground. These slender logs slanted down slightly +from head to foot of the bed, and the edges of the bed were built high +enough to hold the deep thick filling of balsam tips, so generously deep +as to do away with all consciousness of the underlying slender-log +foundation (<a href='#dining'>Fig. 22</a>). Each bed was wide enough for two girls and the +shelter ample to accommodate comfortably four campers. There could have +been one more bed, when the tent would have sheltered six girls.</p> + +<p>In the late fall, the guide removed the water-proof tent covering and +kept it in a safe, dry place until needed, leaving the beds and bare +tent frame standing.</p> + +<p>There was a smaller tent and also a lean-to in this camp.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="forest" id="forest"></a><img src="images/illus_p055-tb.jpg" alt="A forest camp by the water." title="A forest camp by the water." /></div> +<div class='center'>A forest camp by the water.</div> + + +<p>The dining-table, contrived of logs and boards, was sheltered by a +square of canvas on a rustic frame (<a href='#dining'>Fig. 23</a>). The camp dishes of white +enamel ware were kept in a wooden box, nailed to a close-by tree; in +this box the guide had put shelves, resting them on wooden cleats.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[54]</a></span> The +cupboard had a door that shut tight and fastened securely to keep out +the little wild creatures of the woods. Pots, kettles, frying-pan, etc., +hung on the stubs of a slender tree where branches and top had been +lopped off (<a href='#dining'>Fig. 24</a>). The sealed foods were stowed away in a box +cupboard, and canned goods were cached in a cave-like spot under a huge +rock, with opening secured by stones.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[55]</a></span></p> + +<p>The walls of the substantial fireplace, fully two feet high, were of big +stones, the centre filled in part-way with earth, and the cook-fire was +made on top of the earth, so there was not the slightest danger of the +fire spreading.</p> + +<p>The soft, warm, cheerful-colored camp blankets when not in use were +stored carefully under cover of a water-proof tent-like storehouse, with +the canvas sides dropped from the ridge-pole, both sides and flaps +securely fastened and the entire storehouse made proof against +intrusion.</p> + +<p>This camp was located near a lake in the mountain forest and its charm +was indescribably delightful.</p> + + +<h3><br />Tents</h3> + +<p>Tents in almost endless variety of shapes and sizes are manufactured and +sold by camp-outfitters and sporting-goods shops. The tents range from +small canoe-tents, accommodating one person only, to the large +wall-tents for four or more people. When using tents, difficulties of +transportation and extra weight can be overcome by having tent poles and +pegs cut in the forest.</p> + +<p>If you purchase tents, full instructions for erection go with them. +Write for illustrated catalogues to various outfitters and look the +books over carefully before buying. Your choice will depend upon your +party, length of stay, and location of camp.</p> + +<p>You may be able to secure a discarded army-tent that has never been +used, is in good condition, and has been <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[56]</a></span>condemned merely for some +unimportant blemish.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[57]</a></span> Such tents are very serviceable and can be +purchased at Government auctions, or from dealers who themselves have +bought them from the Government.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="in_camp" id="in_camp"></a><img src="images/illus_p057-tb.jpg" alt="In camp." title="In camp." /></div> +<div class='center'>In camp.</div> + + +<p>A large square seven by seven feet, or more, of balloon silk, +water-proof cloth, or even heavy unbleached sheeting, will be found most +useful in camp. Sew strong tape strings at the four corners and at +intervals along the sides for tying to shelters, etc. The water-proof +cloth will serve as a drop-curtain in front of the lean-to during a hard +storm, or as carpet cloth over ground of shelter, also as an extra +shelter, either lean-to or tent style; any of the three materials can do +duty as windbreak, fly to shelter, or dining canopy, and may be used in +other ways.</p> + + +<h3><br />Camp-Beds</h3> + +<p>To derive joy and strength from your outing it is of serious importance +that you sleep well every night while at camp, and your camp-bed must be +comfortable to insure a good night's rest.</p> + +<p>A bough-bed is one of the joys of the forest when it is <i>well made</i>, and +to put it together properly will require about half an hour's time, but +the delight of sleeping on a soft balsam bed perfumed with the pungent +odors of the balsam will well repay for the time expended.</p> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="bough" id="bough"></a> +<img src="images/illus_p059.png" width="600" height="384" alt="The bough-bed, the cook-fire, and the wall-tent." title="The bough-bed, the cook-fire, and the wall-tent." /> +<span class="caption">The bough-bed, the cook-fire, and the wall-tent.</span> +</div> + + +<h3><br />Bough-Bed</h3> + +<p>Tips of balsam broken off with your fingers about fourteen inches long +make the best of beds, but hemlock, spruce, and other evergreens can be +used; if they are not obtainable, the fan-like branches from other trees +may take their place. Of these you will need a large quantity, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[58]</a></span>in +order to have the bed springy and soft. Always place the outdoor bed +with the head well under cover and foot toward the opening of shelter, +or if without shelter, toward the fire. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[59]</a></span>Make the bed by arranging the +branches shingle-like in <i>very</i> thick overlapping rows, convex side up, +directly on the ground with <i>thick end</i> of stems <i>toward</i> the <i>foot</i>. +Push these ends into the ground so that the tips will be raised +slantingly up from the earth; make the rows which will come under the +hips extra thick and springy. Continue placing the layers in this manner +until the space for single or double bed, as the case may be, is covered +with the first layer of your green mattress. Over it make another layer +of branches, reversing the ends of these tips from those underneath by +pushing the <i>thick ends</i> of branches of this top layer slantingly into +the under layer <i>toward</i> the <i>head</i> of the bed with tips toward the +foot. Make more layers, until the bed is about two feet thick (<a href='#bough'>Fig. 25</a>); +then cover the mattress thus made with your poncho, rubber side down, +and on top spread one of the sleeping blankets, using the other one as a +cover. Be sure to allow plenty of time for this work and have the bed +dry and soft.</p> + + +<h3><br />Bag-Bed</h3> + +<p>When the camp is located where there is no material for a bough-bed, +each girl can carry with her a bag three feet wide and six and one-half +feet long, made of strong cloth, ticking, soft khaki, or like material, +to be filled with leaves, grass, or other browse found on or near the +camp-grounds. Such a mattress made up with poncho and blankets is very +satisfactory, but it must be well filled, so that when you lie on the +mattress it will not mash flat and hard.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[60]</a></span></p> + + +<h3><br />Cot-Bed</h3> + +<p>For an entire summer camp army cots which fold for packing are good and +very comfortable with a doubled, thick quilt placed on top for a +mattress.</p> + +<p>The sporting-goods stores show a great variety of other beds, cots, and +sleeping-bags, and a line to them will bring illustrated catalogues, or, +if in the city, you can call and see the goods.</p> + +<p>Any of the beds I have described, however, can be used to advantage, and +I heartily endorse the <i>well-made</i> bough-bed, especially if of balsam.</p> + + +<h3><br />Pillows</h3> + +<p>Make a bag one-half yard square of brown linen or cotton cloth, and when +you reach camp, gather the best browse you can find for filling, but be +careful about having the pillow too full; keep it soft and comfortable. +If there is no browse, use clean underwear in its place. Fasten the open +end of the bag together with large-sized patent dress snappers.</p> + +<p>One of the pleasantest phases of a season's camping are the little side +trips for overnight. You hit the trail that leads to the chosen spot +located some two or three, perhaps six or seven, miles distant; a place +absolutely dry, where you can enjoy the fun of sleeping on the ground +without shelter, having merely the starry sky for a canopy. Each girl +can select the spot where she is to sleep and free it from all twigs, +stones, etc., as the smallest and most insignificant of these will rob +her of sleep and make the night most uncomfortable. When the space is +smooth mark the spot where the shoulders rest when lying down and +another spot immediately under the hips, then dig a hollow <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[61]</a></span>for each to +fit in easily; cover the sleeping space with poncho, rubber side down, +and over this lay a folded blanket for a mattress, using the second +blanket as a cover. Your sleep will then probably be sound and +refreshing.</p> + + +<h3><br />Guards</h3> + +<p>Establish watchers, for this temporary camp, in relays to keep guard +through the night and care for the fire, not allowing it to spread, grow +too hot, or die down and go out.</p> + +<p>If there are eight in the party, the first two, starting in at 10 <span class="smcap">p. +m.</span>, will keep vigil until 12 midnight. These may chance to see a +porcupine or other small wild animal, but the little creatures will not +come too near as long as your camp-fire is burning. The next two +watchers will be on duty until 2 <span class="smcap">a. m.</span>, and will doubtless +hear, if not see, some of the wild life of the forest. The third +couple's turn lasts until 4 <span class="smcap">a. m.</span>; then the last two will be +awakened in time to see the sun rise, listen to the twittering and +singing of the wild birds, and possibly catch a glimpse of wild deer. +With 6 <span class="smcap">a. m.</span> comes broad daylight, and the +ever-to-be-remembered night in the open is past and gone.</p> + +<p>These side trips bring you into closer touch with nature, quicken your +love for, and a desire to know more of, the wild; and, much to the +delight of the campers keeping guard through the hours of the night, +there comes a keen sense of the unusual, of novel experience, of +strangeness and adventure.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="soft" id="soft"></a><img src="images/illus_p063-tb.jpg" alt="Soft wood." title="Soft wood." /></div> +<div class='center'>Soft wood.</div> + + +<h3><br /><b>Exercise</b></h3> + +<p>While wholesome camping calls for sufficient physical exercise to cause +a girl to be blissfully tired at night, and yet awaken refreshed and +full of energy the next morn<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[62]</a></span>ing with a good appetite for breakfast, +until you become accustomed to the outdoor life, it is best to curb your +ambition to outdo the other girls in strength and endurance. It is best +not to overtax yourself by travelling too far on a long trail at one +stretch, or by lifting too heavy a log, stone, or other weight.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[63]</a></span></p> + + +<h3><br />The Camp-Fire</h3> + +<p>The outdoor fire in camp bespeaks cheer, comfort, and possibilities for +a hot dinner, all of which the camper appreciates.</p> + + +<h3><br />How to Build a Fire</h3> + +<p>Choose an open space, if possible, for your fire. Beware of having it +under tree branches, too near a tent, or in any other place that might +prove dangerous. Start your fire with the tinder nearest at hand, dry +leaves, ferns, twigs, cones, birch bark, or pine-knot slivers. As the +tinder begins to burn, add kindling-wood of larger size, always +remembering that the air must circulate under and upward through the +kindling; no fire can live without air any more than you can live +without breathing. Smother a person and he will die, smother a fire and +it will die.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="hard" id="hard"></a><img src="images/illus_p065-tb.jpg" alt="Hard wood." title="Hard wood." /></div> +<div class='center'>Hard wood.</div> + + +<p>Soft woods are best to use after lighting the tinder; they ignite easily +and burn quickly, such as pine, spruce, alder, birch, soft maple, +balsam-fir, and others. When the kindling is blazing put on still +heavier wood, until you have a good, steady fire. Hard wood is better +than soft when the fire is well going; it burns longer and can usually +be depended upon for a reliable fire, not sending out sparks or +sputtering, as do many of the soft woods, but burning well and giving a +fine bed of hot coals. The tree belonging exclusively to America, and +which is the best of the hardwoods, comes first on the hardwood list.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[64]</a></span> +This is <i>hickory</i>. Pecan, chestnut-oak, black birch, basket-oaks, white +birch, maple, dogwood, beech, red and yellow birch, ash, and apple wood +when obtainable are excellent.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[65]</a></span></p> + + +<h3><br />Cook-Fire</h3> + +<p>Make the cook-fire <i>small</i> and <i>hot</i>; then you can work over it in +comfort and not scorch both hands and face when trying to get near +enough to cook, as would be the case if the fire were large.</p> + +<p>When in a hurry use dry bark as wood for the cook-fire. Hemlock, pine, +hickory, and other bark make a hot fire in a short time, and water will +boil quickly over a bark fire.</p> + + +<h3><br />Log-Cabin Fire</h3> + +<p>Start this fire with two good-sized short sticks or logs. Place them +about one foot apart parallel to each other. At each end across these +lay two smaller sticks, and in the hollow square formed by the four +sticks, put the tinder of cones, birch bark, or dry leaves.</p> + +<p>Across the two upper sticks and over the tinder, make a grate by laying +slender kindling sticks across from and resting on top of the two upper +large sticks. Over the grate, at right angles to the sticks forming it, +place more sticks of larger size. Continue in this way, building the +log-cabin fire until the structure is one foot or so high, each layer +being placed at right angles to the one beneath it. The fire must be +lighted from beneath in the pile of tinder. I learned this method when +on the Pacific slope. The fire burns quickly, and the log-cabin plan is +a good one to follow when heating the bean hole, as the fire can be +built over the hole, and in burning the red-hot coals will fall down +into it, or the fire can be built directly in the hole; both ways are +used by campers.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[66]</a></span></p> + + +<h3><br />Fire in the Rain</h3> + +<p>To build a fire in the rain with no dry wood in sight seems a difficult +problem, but keep cheerful, hum your favorite tune, and look for a +pine-knot or birch bark and an old dead stump or log. In the centre of +the dead wood you will find dry wood; dig it out and, after starting the +fire with either birch bark or pine-knot, use the dry wood as kindling. +When it begins to burn, add larger pieces of wood, and soon the fire +will grow strong enough to burn wet wood. If there happens to be a big +rock in your camp, build your fire on the sheltered side and directly +against the stone, which will act as a windbreak and keep the driving +rain from extinguishing the fire. A slightly shelving bank would also +form a shelter for it. A pine-knot is always a good friend to the girl +camper, both in dry and wet weather, but is especially friendly when it +rains and everything is dripping wet.</p> + +<p>You will find pine-knots in wooded sections where pine-trees grow; or, +if you are located near water where there are no trees, look for +pine-knots in driftwood washed ashore. When secured cut thin slices down +part way all around the elongated knot and circle it with many layers of +shavings until the knot somewhat resembles a toy tree. The inside will +be absolutely dry, and this branching knot will prove reliable and start +your fire without fail. Birch bark will start a fire even when the bark +is damp, and it is one of the best things you can have as a starter for +an outdoor, rainy-day fire.</p> + +<p>Take your cue from the forest guides, and while in the woods always +carry some dry birch bark in your pocket for a fire in case of rain.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[67]</a></span></p> + + +<h3><br />Camp Fireplace</h3> + +<p>One way to make the outdoor fireplace is to lay two <i>green</i> logs side by +side on the ground in a narrow V shape, but open at both ends; only a +few inches at one end, a foot or more at the other. The fire is built +between the logs, and the frying-pan and pail of water, resting on both +logs, bridge across the fire. Should the widest space between the logs +be needed, place two slender green logs at right angles across the V +logs, and have these short top cross logs near enough together to hold +the frying-pans set on them (<a href='#bough'>Fig. 26</a>).</p> + +<p>When there are no green logs, build the fireplace with three rectangular +sides of stone, open front, and make the fire in the centre; the pots +and pans rest across the fire on the stones.</p> + +<p>If neither stones nor logs are available, dig a circle of fresh earth as +a safeguard and have the fire in its centre. Here you will need two +strong, forked-top stakes driven down into the ground directly opposite +each other, one on each side of the circle. Rest the end of a stout +green stick in the forked tops of the stakes, and use it to hang pots +and pails from when cooking. A fire can also be safeguarded with a +circle of stones placed close together. Another method of outdoor +cooking may be seen on page 81, where leaning stakes are used from which +to hang cooking utensils over the fire.</p> + +<p>One more caution about possibilities of causing forest fire. Terrible +wide-spread fires have resulted from what was supposed to be an +extinguished outdoor fire. Do not trust it, but when you are sure the +camp-fire is out, pour on more water over the fire and all around the +unburned edge of surrounding ground; then throw on fresh earth until the +fire space is covered. Be always on the safe <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[68]</a></span>side. Tack up on a tree +in the camp, where all must see it, a copy of the state laws regarding +forest fires, as shown in photograph <a href='#front'>frontispiece</a>.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[69]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="bring" id="bring"></a><img src="images/illus_p069-tb.jpg" alt="Bringing wood for the fire." title="Bringing wood for the fire." /></div> +<div class='center'>Bringing wood for the fire.</div> + +<p>On forest lands much of the ground is deep with tangled rootlets and +fibres mixed in with the mould, and a fire may be smouldering down +underneath, where you cannot see it. <i>Have a care.</i></p> + +<p>The permanent-camp fireplace, built to do service for several seasons, +is usually of big, heavy, <i>green</i> logs, stones, and earth. The logs, +about three and one-half feet long, are built log-cabin fashion, some +twenty-eight inches high, with all crevices filled in and firmly padded +with earth and stones. Big stones are anchored securely along the top of +the earth-covered log sides and back of the fireplace, raising these +higher than the front. The space inside the walled fireplace is very +nearly filled up with earth, and the fire is built on this earth. +Surfaces of logs which may have been left exposed where the fire is to +be made are safeguarded with earth (<a href='#fires'>Fig. 27</a>).</p> + +<p>Such a fireplace is big, substantial, firm, and lasting. Many of them +may be seen in the Adirondacks. They usually face the camp shelter, but +are located at a safe distance, fully two yards, from it. Fires built in +these are generally used as social cheer-fires, but you can have the +cheer-fire even though the substantial fireplace be <i>non est</i>, if in the +evening you pile more wood on the cook-fire, making it large enough for +all to gather around and have a good time, telling stories, laughing, +talking, and singing.</p> + +<p>An excellent rule in camp is to have always on hand <i>plenty</i> of +<i>fire-wood</i>. Replenish the reserve stock every day as inroads are made +upon it, and have some sort of shelter or covering where the wood will +be kept dry and ready for immediate use.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[70]</a></span></p> + + +<h3><br />Camp Cooking. Provisions</h3> + +<p>In the woods one is generally hungry except immediately after a good +meal, and provisions and cooking are of vital interest to the camper. +The list of essentials is not very long and, when the camp is a +permanent one, non-essentials may be added to the larder with advantage.</p> + +<p>Bread of some kind will form part of every meal, and a few loaves +freshly baked can be taken to camp to start with while you are getting +settled.</p> + +<p>The quickest bread to cook is the delectable flapjack, and it is quite +exciting to toss it in the air, see it turn over and catch it again—if +you can.</p> + + +<h3><br />Flapjacks</h3> + +<p>Mix dry flour, baking-powder, and salt together, 1 good teaspoonful of +Royal baking-powder to every 2 cups of flour, and 1 level teaspoonful of +salt to 1 quart (4 cups) of flour. To make the batter, beat 1 egg and +add 1½ cups of milk, or 1 cup of milk and ½ cup of water; +unsweetened condensed milk diluted according to directions on can may be +used. Carefully and gradually stir in enough of the flour you have +prepared to make a creamy batter, be sure it is smooth and without +lumps; then stir in 1 heaping teaspoonful of sugar, better still +molasses, to make the cakes brown. Grease the frying-pan with a piece of +fat pork or bacon, have the pan hot, and, with a large spoon or a cup, +ladle out the batter into the pan, forming three small cakes to be +turned by a knife, or one large cake to be turned by tossing. Use the +knife to lift the edges of the cakes as they cook, and when you see them +a golden brown, turn quickly. Or, if the cake is large, loosen it; then +lift the pan and quickly toss the cake up into the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[71]</a></span>air in such a way +that it will turn over and land safely, brown side up, on the pan. +Unless you are skilled in tossing flapjacks, don't risk wasting the cake +by having it fall on the ground or in the fire, but confine your efforts +to the small, knife-turned cakes. Serve them "piping hot," and if there +are no plates, each camper can deftly and quickly roll her flapjack into +cylinder form of many layers and daintily and comfortably eat it while +holding the roll between forefinger and thumb.</p> + +<p>Keep the frying-pan well greased while cooking the cakes, rubbing the +pan with grease each time before pouring in fresh batter.</p> + +<p>Flapjacks are good with butter, delicious with creamy maple-sugar soft +enough to spread smoothly over the butter. The sugar comes in cans. +Ordinary maple-syrup can be used, but is apt to drip over the edges if +the cake is held in the hand.</p> + +<p>Well-cooked cold rice mixed with the batter will give a delicate +griddle-cake and make a change from the regular flapjack.</p> + + +<h3><br />Biscuits</h3> + +<p>Biscuits are more easily made than raised bread and so are used largely +in its place while in camp. The proportions of flour and baking-powder +are the same as for flapjacks. To 4 cups of flour mix 2 teaspoonfuls of +Royal baking-powder and 1 level teaspoonful of salt; add shortening +about the size of an egg, either lard or drippings. Divide the +shortening into small bits and, using the tips of your fingers, rub it +well into the dry flour just prepared; then gradually stir in cold water +to make a soft dough, barely stiff enough to be rolled out ¾ inch +thick on bread-board, clean flat stone, or large, smooth piece of +flattened bark. Whichever is used must <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[72]</a></span>be well floured, as must also +the rolling-pin and biscuit cutter. A clean glass bottle or smooth round +stick may be used as rolling-pin, and the cutter can be a baking-powder +can, or the biscuits may be cut square, or 4 inches long and 2 inches +wide with a knife. The dough may also be shaped into a loaf ¾ inch +thick and baked in a pan by planting the pan in a bed of hot coals, +covering it with another pan or some substitute, and placing a deep +layer of hot coals all over the cover. The biscuits should bake in about +fifteen minutes. For a hurry meal each camper can take a strip of dough, +wind it spirally around a peeled thick stick, which has first been +heated, and cook her own spiral biscuit by holding it over the fire and +constantly turning the stick. Biscuits, in common with everything cooked +over a hot wood-fire, need constant watching that they may not burn. +Test them with a clean splinter of wood; thrust it into the biscuit and +if no dough clings to the wood the biscuits are done.</p> + + +<h3><br />Johnny-Cake</h3> + +<p>Served hot, split open and buttered, these Kentucky johnny-cakes with a +cup of good coffee make a fine, hearty breakfast, very satisfying and +good.</p> + +<p>Allow ½ cup of corn-meal for each person, and to every 4 cups of meal +add 1 teaspoonful of salt, mix well; then pour water, which is <i>boiling +hard</i>, gradually into the meal, stirring constantly to avoid having any +lumps. When the consistency is like soft mush, have ready a frying-pan +almost full of <i>hot</i> drippings or lard, dip your hands into cold water +to enable you to handle the hot dough, and, taking up enough corn-meal +dough to make a <i>large</i>-sized biscuit, pat it in your hands into a +¾-inch-thick cake and gently drop it into the hot fat; immediately +make another cake, drop it into the fat, and continue until the +frying-<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[73]</a></span>pan is full. As soon as one johnny-cake browns on the lower side +turn it over, remove each cake from the fat as soon as done, and serve +as they cook.</p> + +<p>Corn-meal must be thoroughly scalded with boiling water when making any +kind of corn bread in order to have the bread soft and not dry and +"chaffy."</p> + +<p>For baked corn bread add 2 full teaspoons of baking-powder and stir in 2 +eggs, after 4 cups of meal and 1 teaspoonful of salt have been +thoroughly scalded and allowed to cool a little. Pour this corn-meal +dough into a pan which has been generously greased, and bake.</p> + +<p>Corn-meal needs a hot oven and takes longer to bake than wheat-flour +biscuits.</p> + + +<h3><br />Corn-Meal Mush</h3> + +<p>Corn-meal mush does not absolutely require fresh cream or milk when +served. It is good eaten with butter and very nourishing. Many like it +with maple-syrup or common molasses.</p> + +<p>Time is required to make well-cooked mush; at least one hour will be +necessary. To 2 quarts of boiling, bubbling water add 1 teaspoonful of +salt, and very slowly, little by little, add 2 cups of corn-meal, +stirring constantly and not allowing the water to cease boiling. Do not +stop stirring until the mush has cooked about ten minutes. It may then +be placed higher up from the fire, where it will not scorch, and +<i>boiling</i> water added from time to time as needed to keep the mush of +right consistency. The cold mush may be made into a tempting dish, if +sliced ½-inch thick and fried brown in pork fat. Many cold cooked +cereals can be treated in the same way; sprinkled with flour these will +brown better.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[74]</a></span></p> + + +<h3><br />Kentucky Bread</h3> + +<p>Kentucky bread is made of flour, salt, and water. It is generally known +as beaten biscuit. Mix 2 scant teaspoonfuls of salt with 1 quart of +flour, add enough cold water to make a <i>stiff</i>, smooth dough and knead, +pull, and pound the dough until it blisters; the longer it is worked and +beaten the better. Roll out very thin, cut round or into squares and +bake. These biscuits may be quickly made, are simple and wholesome.</p> + + +<h3><br />Cocoa</h3> + +<p>Good cocoa may be made by substituting cold milk and cold water for hot. +Follow directions on the can as to proportion, and add the cold liquids +after the cocoa is mixed to a smooth paste; then boil. Either +unsweetened condensed milk or milk powder can take the place of fresh +milk.</p> + + +<h3><br />Coffee</h3> + +<p>For every camper allow 1 tablespoonful of ground coffee, then 1 extra +spoonful for the pot. Put the dry coffee into the coffee-pot, and to +settle it add a crumbled egg-shell; then pour in a little cold water and +stir all together; when there are no egg-shells use merely cold water. +Add 1 cupful of cold water for each camper, and 2 for the pot, set the +coffee-pot over the fire and let it boil for a few moments, take it from +the fire and pour into the spout a little cold water, then place the +coffee where it will keep hot—not cook, but settle.</p> + + +<h3><br />Tea</h3> + +<p>Allow 1 scant teaspoonful of tea for each person, scald the teapot, +measure the tea into the pot, and pour in as <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[75]</a></span>many cups of <i>boiling</i> +water as there are spoonfuls of tea, adding an extra cupful for the pot. +<i>Never</i> let <i>tea boil</i>.</p> + + +<h3><br />Boiled Potatoes</h3> + +<p>Wash potatoes, cut out any blemish, and put them on to cook in cold +water over the fire. They are much better boiled while wearing their +jackets. Allow from one-half to three-quarters of an hour for boiling, +test them with a sliver of wood that will pierce through the centre when +the potato is done. When cooked pour off the boiling water, set off the +fire to one side where they will keep hot, and raise one edge of the lid +to allow the steam to escape. Serve while <i>very</i> hot.</p> + + +<h3><br />Baked Potatoes</h3> + +<p>Wrap each potato in wet leaves and place them all on hot ashes that lie +over hot coals, put more hot ashes on top of the potatoes, and over the +ashes place a deep bed of red-hot coals. It will require about forty +minutes or more for potatoes to bake. Take one out when you think they +should be done; if soft enough to yield to the pressure when squeezed +between thumb and finger, the potato is cooked. Choose potatoes as near +of a size as possible; then all will be baked to a turn at the same +time.</p> + + +<h3><br />Bean Soup and Baked Beans</h3> + +<p>Look over one quart of dried beans, take out all bits of foreign matter +and injured beans; then wash the beans in several waters and put them to +soak overnight in fresh water. Next morning scald 1½ pounds salt +pork, scrape it well, rinse, and with 1 teaspoonful of dried onion or +half of a fresh one, put on to boil with the beans in cold <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[76]</a></span>water. Cook +slowly for several hours. When the water boils low, add more boiling +water and boil until the beans are soft.</p> + +<p>To make soup, dip out a heaping cupful of the boiled beans, mash them to +a paste, then pour the liquid from the boiled beans over the paste and +stir until well mixed; if too thin add more beans; if too thick add hot +water until of the right consistency, place the soup over the fire to +reheat, and serve very hot. To bake beans, remove the pork from the +drained, partially cooked beans, score it across the top and replace it +in the pot in midst of and extending a trifle above the surface of the +beans, add 1 cup of hot water and securely cover the top of the pot with +a lid or some substitute. Sink the pot well into the glowing coals and +shovel hot coals over all. Add more hot water from time to time if +necessary.</p> + +<p>Beans cooked in a bean hole rival those baked in other ways. Dig the +hole about 1½ feet deep and wide, build a fire in it, and keep it +burning briskly for hours; the oven hole must be <i>hot</i>. When the beans +are ready, rake the fire out of the hole; then sink the pot down into +the hole and cover well with hot coals and ashes, placing them all over +the sides and top of the pot. Over these shovel a thick layer of earth, +protecting the top with grass sod or thick blanket of leaves and bark, +that rain may not penetrate to the oven. Let the beans bake all night.</p> + + +<h3><br />Bacon</h3> + +<p>Sliced bacon freshly cut is best; do not bring it to camp in jars or +cans, but cut it as needed. Each girl may have the fun of cooking her +own bacon.</p> + +<p>Cut long, slender sticks with pronged ends, sharpen the prongs and they +will hold the bacon; or use sticks with split ends and wedge in the +bacon between the two <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[77]</a></span>sides of the split, then toast it over the fire. +Other small pieces of meat can be cooked in the same way. Bacon boiled +with greens gives the vegetable a fine flavor, as it also does +string-beans when cooked with them. It may, however, be boiled alone for +dinner, and is good fried for breakfast.</p> + + +<h3><br />Game Birds</h3> + +<p>Game birds can be baked in the embers. Have ready a bed of red-hot coals +covered with a thin layer of ashes, and after drawing the bird, dip it +in water to wet the feathers; then place it on the ash-covered red +coals, cover the bird with more ashes, and heap on quantities of red +coals. If the bird is small it should be baked in about one-half hour. +When done strip off the skin, carrying feathers with it, and the bird +will be clean and appetizing. Birds can also be roasted in the bean-pot +hole, but in this way, they must first be picked, drawn, and rinsed +clean; then cut into good-sized pieces and placed in the pot with fat +pork, size of an egg, for seasoning; after pouring in enough water to +cover the meat, fasten the pot lid on securely and bury the pot in the +glowing hot hole under a heap of red-hot coals. Cover with earth, the +same as when baking beans.</p> + + +<h3><br />Fish</h3> + +<p>Fish cooked in the embers is very good, and you need not first remove +scales or fins, but clean the fish, season it with salt and pepper, wrap +it in fresh, wet, green leaves or wet blank paper, not printed paper, +and bury in the coals the same as a bird. When done the skin, scales, +and fins can all be pulled off together, leaving the delicious hot fish +ready to serve.</p> + +<p>To boil a fish: First scale and clean it; then cut off <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[78]</a></span>head and tail. +If you have a piece of new <ins title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'cheese-cloth'">cheesecloth</ins> to wrap the fish in, it can be +stuffed with dressing made of dry crumbs of bread or biscuits well +seasoned with butter, or bits of pork, pepper, and a very small piece of +onion. The cloth covering must be wrapped around and tied with white +string. When the fish is ready, put it into boiling water to which has +been added 1 tablespoonful of vinegar and a little salt. The vinegar +tends to keep the meat firm, and the dressing makes the fish more of a +dinner dish; both, however, can be omitted. Allow about twenty minutes +for boiling a three-pound fish.</p> + +<p>The sooner a fish is cooked after being caught the better. To scale a +fish, lay it on a flat stone or log, hold it by the head and with a +knife scrape off the scales. Scale each side and, with a quick stroke, +cut off the head and lower fins. The back fin must have incisions on +each side in order to remove it. Trout are merely scraped and cleaned by +drawing out the inside with head and gills. Do this by forcing your hand +in and grasping tight hold of the gullet.</p> + +<p>To clean most fish it is necessary to slit open the under side, take out +the inside, wash the fish, and wipe it dry with a clean cloth.</p> + +<p>If the camping party is fond of fish, and fish frequently forms part of +a meal, have a special clean cloth to use exclusively for drying the +fish.</p> + + +<div class="hangindent"><i>Provisions for One Person for Two Weeks. To be +Multiplied by Number of Campers, and Length of +Time if Stay is over Two Weeks</i> </div> + + +<h3><br /><b>Essential Foods</b></h3> + +<p>Outdoor life seems to require certain kinds of foods; these we call +essentials; others in addition to them are in the nature of luxuries or +non-essentials.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[79]</a></span></p> + + +<h3><br />List</h3> + + +<div class='center'><i>Essentials</i></div> +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="Essentials"> +<tr><td align='left'>Wheat flour</td><td align='right'>6</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>lbs.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Corn-meal</td><td align='right'>2</td><td align='left'>½ </td><td align='left'>lbs.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Baking-powder</td><td align='right'></td><td align='left'>½ </td><td align='left'>lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Coffee</td><td align='right'></td><td align='left'>½ </td><td align='left'>lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Tea</td><td align='right'></td><td align='left'>1/8 </td><td align='left'>lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Cocoa</td><td align='right'></td><td align='left'>½ </td><td align='left'>lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Pork</td><td align='right'>1 </td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Bacon</td><td align='right'>2</td><td align='left'>½ </td><td align='left'>lbs.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Salt</td><td align='right'></td><td align='left'>½ </td><td align='left'>lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Pepper</td><td align='right'>1</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Sugar</td><td align='right'>3</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>lbs.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Butter</td><td align='right'>1</td><td align='left'>½ </td><td align='left'>lbs.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Milk, dried</td><td align='right'></td><td align='left'>½ </td><td align='left'>lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Lard</td><td align='right'></td><td align='left'>¾ </td><td align='left'>lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Egg powder</td><td align='right'></td><td align='left'>¼ </td><td align='left'>lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Fruit, dried</td><td align='right'>1</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Potatoes, dried </td><td align='right'>1</td><td align='left'>½ </td><td align='left'>lbs.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Beans</td><td align='right'>1</td><td align='left'>½ </td><td align='left'>lbs.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Maple-syrup</td><td align='right'>1</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>pt.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Vinegar</td><td align='right'></td><td align='left'>¼ </td><td align='left'>pt.</td></tr> +</table></div> + + + +<h3><br />List</h3> + +<div class='center'><i>Non-Essentials</i></div> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="Non-Essentials"> +<tr><td align='left'>Rice</td><td align='right'>2</td><td align='left'>½ </td><td align='left'>lbs.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Lemons</td><td align='right'></td><td align='left'>½ </td><td align='left'>doz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Erbswurst</td><td align='right'></td><td align='left'>¼ </td><td align='left'>lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Soup tablets</td><td align='right'></td><td align='left'>¼ </td><td align='left'>lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Baker's chocolate (slightly sweetened)</td><td align='right'></td><td align='left'>½ </td><td align='left'>lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Maple-sugar</td><td align='right'></td><td align='left'>½ </td><td align='left'>lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Ham</td><td align='right'>5</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>lbs.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Nuts</td><td align='right'>2</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>lbs.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Marmalade</td><td align='right'></td><td align='left'>½ </td><td align='left'>jar</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Preserves</td><td align='right'>1</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>can</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Citric acid</td><td align='right'></td><td align='left'>1/8 </td><td align='left'>lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Onions, dried</td><td align='right'>1</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Cheese</td><td align='right'>1</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Potatoes, fresh</td><td align='right'>14</td><td align='left'></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Codfish</td><td align='right'>1</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>lb.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Vegetables, dried</td><td align='right'></td><td align='left'>½ </td><td align='left'>lb.</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<h3><br />Sanitation</h3> +<div><a name="fires" id="fires"></a></div> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 283px;"> +<img src="images/illus_p081.png" width="283" height="400" alt="Camp fires and camp sanitation." title="Camp fires and camp sanitation." /> +<span class="caption">Camp fires and camp sanitation.</span> +</div> +<p><i>Keep your camp scrupulously clean.</i> Do not litter up the place, your +health and happiness greatly depend upon observing the laws of hygiene. +Make sure after each meal that all kitchen refuse is collected and +deposited in the big garbage hole, previously dug for that purpose, and +well covered with a layer of fresh earth.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[80]</a></span></p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[81]</a></span></p> +<p><i>Impress upon your mind that fresh earth is a disinfectant and keeps +down all odors.</i></p> + +<p>Erect a framework with partially open side entrance for a retiring-room. +Use six strong forked-topped poles planted in an irregular square as +uprights (<a href='#fires'>Fig. 28</a>), and across these lay slender poles, fitting the ends +well into the forked tops of the uprights (<a href='#fires'>Fig. 28</a>). Half-way down from +the top, place more cross poles, resting them on the crotches left on +the uprights. Have these last cross poles as nearly the same distance +from the ground as possible and over them hang thick branches, hooking +the branches on by the stubs on their heavy ends. Also hang thickly +foliaged branches on the top cross poles, using the stubs where smaller +branches have been lopped off as hooks, as on the lower row (<a href='#fires'>Fig. 29</a>); +then peg down the bottom ends of the hanging branches to the ground with +sharpened two-pronged crotches cut from branches. The upper row of +branches should overlap the under row one foot or more. Make the seat by +driving three stout stakes firmly into the ground; two at the back, one +in front, and on these nail three crosspieces.</p> + +<p>Never throw dish water or any refuse near your tent or on the camp +grounds.</p> + +<p><i>Burn</i> or <i>bury</i> all trash, remembering that earth and fire are your +good servants, and with their assistance you can have perfect camp +cleanliness, which will go a long way toward keeping away a variety of +troublesome flies and make camp attractive and wholesome.</p> + + +<h3><br />Camp Spirit</h3> + +<p>Thoughtfulness for others; kindliness; the willingness to do your share +of the work, and more, too; the habit of making light of all +discomforts; cheerfulness under all circumstances; and the determination +never to sulk, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[82]</a></span>imagine you are slighted, or find fault with people, +conditions, or things. To radiate good-will, take things as they come +and <i>enjoy them</i>, and to do your full share of entertainment and +fun-making—this is the true camp spirit.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[83]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>CHAPTER IV</h2> + +<h3>WHAT TO WEAR ON THE TRAIL</h3> + +<div class='center'><b>Camp Outfits. Clothing. Personal Outfits. Camp Packs. Duffel-Bags and +What to Put in Them</b></div> + + +<p>To prepare your own camping outfit for the coming summer, to plan, to +work out your lists, to select materials, and make many of the things +just as you want them or even to hunt up the articles and purchase them, +while all the time delightful visions of trailing and camp life dance +before you, is to know the true joy of anticipation, and is great fun.</p> + + +<h3><br />Clothing</h3> + +<p>Make your dress for the trail absolutely comfortable, not too heavy, too +tight, too hot, or too cool. No part of the clothing should bind or +draw.</p> + +<p>Brown or dark gray are the best colors for the forest; avoid wearing +those which frighten the timid wild life, for you want to make friends +with the birds and animals, so do not wear metal buttons, buckles, or +anything that shines or sparkles.</p> + + +<h3><br />Underwear</h3> + +<p>For girl campers the light-weight, pure-woollen underwear is best, +especially if you locate in the mountains, or the Canadian or Maine +forests. On cold days two light-weight union garments are warmer than +one of heavy weight. Wool is never clammy and cold, it absorbs +per<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[84]</a></span>spiration and when on the trail prevents the chilly feeling often +experienced when halting for a rest in the forest.</p> + +<p>Union garments may be obtained in a variety of weights, and a one-piece +suit is the only garment necessary to wear under bloomers and middy when +at camp.</p> + +<p>Leave corsets at home, they have no place in the outdoor life, and you +will be freer if you discard the dress skirt when at camp and on the +trail. Have your muscles free, be able to take in long, deep breaths, to +move readily all portions of your body, and not be hampered in any way +by ill-fitting, uncomfortable clothing. There must be unrestricted +freedom of arms and limbs for a girl to be able to use them easily in +climbing mountains or hills, scrambling over fallen trees, sliding over +rocks, jumping from stone to stone, or from root to half-sunken log on +wet trails of the forest.</p> + + +<h3><br />Stockings</h3> + +<p>Select your stockings with care. Let them be of wool, strong, soft, and +absolutely satisfactory when the shoe is on. The aim of the entire camp +dress is to have it so comfortable and well adapted to outdoor life that +you will forget it; think no more of it than a bird does of its +feathers. When woollen stockings are worn, wet feet are not apt to give +one cold, for the feet do not become chilled even when it is necessary +to stand in the reedy edge of a mountain lake or stream. If, however, +you cannot wear wool, use cotton stockings. Remember that wool often +shrinks in the wash. Allow for this when purchasing goods, though it is +said, on reliable authority, that if laundered with care the garments +will not shrink.</p> + +<p>When washing woollen underwear use very soapy, cool water (not icy) with +addition of a little borax, or ammonia, if you have either, and do not +rub soap directly on wool; <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[85]</a></span>it mats the little fibres and this causes +the wool to shrink. For the same reason avoid rubbing the garments if +possible during the cleansing process. All that is usually necessary is +to squeeze and souse them well, then rinse in water of the same +temperature; do not wring the things; squeeze them and hang them up to +dry. Changes of temperature in the water when washing wool will cause +the wool to shrink. To alternate between cold and warm, hot and lukewarm +water will surely cause the clothing to grow much smaller and stiffer; +keep both wash and rinse water either cold or lukewarm; cold is safer.</p> + +<p>Allow no one to persuade you to take old clothes to camp; they will soon +need mending and prove a torment.</p> + + +<h3><br />Shoes</h3> + +<p>Wear low-heeled, high-laced shoes of stout leather and easy fit. Make +them water-proof by giving the leather a good coat of hot, melted mutton +tallow, completely covering the shoes and working the tallow into all +crevices. Be sure to do this, as it is worse than useless to depend upon +rubber overshoes when trailing; sharp stones cut, and roots, twigs, and +underbrush tear the rubber, with the result that the overshoes soon fill +with water and your feet swim in little lakes. Test your shoes well +before taking them to camp, be perfectly satisfied that they are +comfortable and well-fitting, wear them steadily for one week or more. +It is very unwise to risk new shoes on the trail, and it is of the +utmost importance that the feet be kept in good condition. Be kind to +your feet.</p> + + +<h3><br />Camping Dress</h3> + +<p>The most serviceable and practical dress for camping is a three-piece +suit, made of a fadeless, soft quality of gray or brown material.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[86]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 268px;"><a name="outfits" id="outfits"></a> +<img src="images/illus_p087.png" width="268" height="400" alt="Trailers' outfits." title="Trailers' outfits." /> +<span class="caption">Trailers' outfits.</span> +</div> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[87]</a></span></p> +<p>The middy-blouse while loose can be well-fitting, with long sleeves +roomy enough to allow of pushing up above the elbow when desired. Sew +two small patch pockets high on the left breast—one for your watch, the +other for your compass; protect the pockets with flaps which fasten down +over the open top with dress snaps. On the right breast sew one +good-sized pocket.</p> + +<p>In addition to these you will need one large pocket on both right and +left side of middy, below belt line, making in all three large and two +small pockets. The belt is held in place by sliding it through loops +sewed on the middy, one at the back and one on each side.</p> + +<p>Make the skirt of this suit short enough for ease and of generous width, +not to draw at front, but give perfect freedom of the limbs. Have a seam +pocket in each side of the front breadth, and fasten the skirt down one +side from belt to hem. It can then be quickly removed and used as a cape +or a wind break when occasion requires. The bloomers, well-fitting and +comfortable, gathered below the knee with best quality of elastic, that +it may last, can have a deep pocket sewed across the front of each leg, +several inches conveniently below waist-line.</p> + + +<h3><br />Hat</h3> + +<p>A soft, light-weight felt hat with brim sufficiently wide to shade the +eyes will prove the best head covering for the trail. Don't use hatpins; +your hat will cling to the head if you substitute a strip of woollen +cloth in place of the inside leather band. The clinging wool prevents +the hat from being readily knocked off by overhanging branches or blown +off on windy days.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[88]</a></span></p> + + +<h3><br />Check List of Apparel</h3> + +<p>Go light when off for the woods, take with you only those things which +seem to be absolutely necessary; remember that you will carry your own +pack and be your own laundress, so hesitate about including too many +washable garments. Make out your list, then consider the matter +carefully and realize that every one of the articles, even the very +smallest, has a way of growing heavier and heavier and adding to the +ever-increasing weight of your pack the longer you walk, so be wise, +read over your list and cut it down, decide that you <i>can</i> do without a +number of things thought at first to be indispensable.</p> + +<p>In addition to your camp dress described, the following list forms a +basis to work upon, to be added to, taken from, or substitution made +according to location, climate, and nature of the country where you will +pitch camp:</p> + +<div class='blockquot'><div class='hangindent'>One extra suit of wool underwear. Wash suit as +soon as changed.<br /><br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'> +One extra pair of stockings. Every morning put on +a fresh pair, washing the discarded ones the same +day.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>One high-necked, long-sleeved, soft, woven +undershirt for cold days.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>One extra thin middy-blouse for hot days.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>Three pocket handkerchiefs, each laundered as soon +as discarded.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>One kimono, soft, warm wool, buttoned down front, +not eider-down (it is too bulky), color brown or +dark gray.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>One bathing-suit without skirt, made in one-piece, +loose, belted waist with bloomers; suit opened on +shoulders with strong button and buttonhole +fastenings.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>One warm sweater with high turned-over collar and +sleeves good and long. On the trail carry your +sweater by tying the sleeves around your waist, +allowing the sweater to hang down at the back.<br /><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[89]</a></span> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>One pair of gloves, strong, pliable, easy-fitting +chamois, if you feel that you need them. The bare, +free hands are better.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>One pair of strong, snug, well-fitting leggins +matching camp dress in color, with no buttons or +buckles to tangle on underbrush. The fastening can +be covered by smooth outer flap.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>One pair of felt slippers or thick-soled moccasins +for tent.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>Four extra strips of elastic for renewing those in +knees of bloomers.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>One large, strong, soft silk or cotton +neckerchief, for protecting neck from sun, rain, +and cold, also good to fold diagonally and use for +arm sling or tie over hat in a hard wind; silk is +best.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>Two head-nets if your stay is long, one if short, +to be worn in case of swarms of pestiferous flies +and mosquitoes. Especially needed for protection +from the midge, black-fly, etc., found in northern +forests and elsewhere during the spring and +through to the middle or last of July. Your net +can be of fine mesh bobbinet; if you have only +white, dye it black; all other colors are apt to +dazzle the eyes. The best material to use is black +Brussels net. Cut a strip of net long enough to +fit easily around your shoulders and allow of some +fulness. Take the measurement smoothly around the +shoulders with a piece of tape and add to this +about three-eighths of the entire length you have +just measured, which will give you the length +required. The width should be sufficient to allow +of the net reaching from base of hat crown across +over brim and down over top of shoulders, about +twenty-two inches or more in all. Cut the net +according to size needed; then fold the strip at +centre across the width, fold again, making four +even folds. Once more fold and you will have +divided the net into eight equal parts. Mark the +net at each fold and open it out (<a href='#net'>Fig. 30</a>). Cut +armholes in the divisions marked 2 (<a href='#net'>Fig. 30</a>) to +fit over the shoulders, sew together the two ends, +bind the shoulder armholes holding the net loosely +that it may not pull and strain. Sew an elastic to +back corner of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[90]</a></span>each armhole, hem the top of net +strip and run an elastic through hem to fit snugly +on base of hat crown. Gather lower edges of net; +then try the net on, adjusting lower and upper +gathers so that the veil will blouse a little, +remembering not to let the net touch your face; <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[91]</a></span>if +it should, the little tormentors will bite through +and torture you. Sew a piece of black tape across +lower edge of the front and another across lower +edge of the back, fitting the tape to lie smoothly +over chest and back; then bring forward the +hanging pieces of elastic, adjust them comfortably +under the arms, and mark length of elastic to +reach around under arm and fasten with dress snaps +at front corner of armhole. Cut elastic and finish +net (<a href='#net'>Fig. 30</a>).<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'><i>Ornaments</i>—Never take rings, bracelets, +necklaces, or jewelry of any kind to camp; leave +all such things at home, and with them ribbons, +beads, and ornaments of all descriptions. </div></div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 262px;"><a name="net" id="net"></a> +<img src="images/illus_p091.png" width="262" height="400" alt="The head-net and blanket-roll." title="The head-net and blanket-roll." /> +<span class="caption">The head-net and blanket-roll.</span> +</div> + + +<h3><br />Check List of Toilet Articles</h3> + +<div class="blockquot"><div class='hangindent'>One comb, not silver-backed.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>One hand-mirror to hang or stand up.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>One tooth-brush in case.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>One tube of tooth-paste, or its equivalent.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>One nail-brush.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>One cake of unscented toilet-soap.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>Two cakes of laundry-soap.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>One package of borax or securely corked bottle of +ammonia.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>One tube of cold-cream.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>One baking-powder can of pure, freshly "tried out" +mutton tallow, made so by boiling in pure water +until melted, then allowed to cool and harden. +When taken from the water, again melted and, while +hot, strained through a clean cloth into the can. +Good to remove pitch and balsam-gum from the +hands, to use as cold-cream to soften the hands, +and excellent to water-proof the shoes.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>One wash-cloth, washed, aired, and sunned every +day. In rainy weather, washed and dried.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[92]</a></span> +<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>Two hand towels, each washed as soon as soiled.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>One bath towel, washed as soon as used.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>One manicure-scissors.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>One package sandpaper nail-files.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>Two papers of hair-pins.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>One paper of common pins, also little flat pocket +pincushion well filled around edge with pins.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>Two papers of large-sized safety-pins. </div></div> + + +<h3><br /><b>Check List of Personal Camp Property</b></h3> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<div class='hangindent'>One note-book and pencil for taking notes on wild +birds, animals, trees, etc.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>One needle-case, compact with needles and strong +white and black thread, wound on cardboard reels +(spools are too bulky). Scissors, thimble, and +large-eyed tape-needle for running elastic through +hem in bloomers and head-net, when needed.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>Two papers of very large sized safety-pins of +horse-blanket kind<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>One roll of tape, most useful in many ways.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>One whistle, the loudest and shrillest to be +found, worn on cord around the neck, for calling +help when lost or in case of need. A short, simple +system of signalling calls should be adopted.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>One compass, durable and absolutely true.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>One watch, inexpensive but trustworthy. Do not +take your gold watch.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>One package of common post-cards, with lead pencil +attached. The postals to take the place of +letters.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>One package writing-paper and stamped envelopes, +if post-cards do not meet the needs.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>One pocket-knife, a big, strong one, with +substantial, sharp, strong blades, for outdoor +work and to use at meals.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>One loaded camera, in case which has secure +leather loops through which your belt can be +slipped to carry camera and hold it steady, +leaving the hands free and precluding danger of +smashing the instrument should a misstep on mossy +stone or a trip over unseen vine or root <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[93]</a></span>suddenly +throw you down and send the camera sailing on a +distance ahead. Such an accident befell a girl +camper who was too sure that her precious camera +would be safest if carried in her hand. Wear the +camera well back that you may not fall on it +should you stumble, or the camera can be carried +on strap slung from the right shoulder.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>Three or more rolls of extra films, the quantity +depending upon your length of stay at camp and the +possibilities for interesting subjects.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>One fishing-rod and fishing-tackle outfit. Choose +the simple and useful rather than the fancy and +expensive. Select your outfit according to the +particular kind of fishing you will find near +camp. There is a certain different style of rod +and tackle for almost every variety of fish. If +fishing is not to be a prominent feature of the +camp, you might take line and hooks, and wait +until you reach camp to cut your fishing-pole.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>One tin cup, with open handle to slide over belt. +The cup will serve you with cool sparkling water, +with cocoa, coffee, or tea as the case may be, and +it will also be your soup bowl. Keep the inside of +the cup bright and shiny. While aluminum is much +lighter than other metal, it is not advisable to +take to camp either cup, teaspoon, or fork of +aluminum because it is such a good conductor of +heat that those articles would be very apt to burn +your lips if used with hot foods.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>One dinner knife, if you object to using your +pocket-knife.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>One dinner fork, not silver.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>One teaspoon, not silver.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>One plate, may be of aluminum or tin, can be kept +bright by scouring with soap and earth.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>Two warm wool double blankets, closely woven and +of good size. The U.S. Army blankets are of the +best. With safety-pins blankets can be turned into +sleeping-bags and hammocks.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>One poncho, light in weight to wear over +shoulders, spread on ground rubber side down to +protect from dampness, can be used in various +ways.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[94]</a></span>.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>One pillow-bag.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>One mattress-bag.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>One water-proof match-safe.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>One belt hatchet in case, or belt sheath small +axe, for chopping wood and felling small trees, +but, be very careful when using either of these +tools. Before going to camp find some one who can +give you proper instructions in handling one or +both, and practise carefully following directions. +Be very <i>cautious</i> and go slow until you become an +expert. Outdoor books and magazines should be +consulted for information, and if you do not feel +absolutely confident of your ability to use the +hatchet or axe after practising, <i>do not take them +with you</i>. For the sake of others as well as +yourself, you have not the right to take chances +of injuring either others or yourself through +inability to use safely any tool. Do not attempt +to use a regular-sized axe, it is very dangerous. +One guide told me that after a tenderfoot chopped +a cruel gash nearly through his foot when using +the guide's axe, that axe was never again loaned, +but kept in a safe place and not allowed to be +touched by any one except the owner. </div></div> + + +<h3><br /><b>Check List for First Aid</b></h3> + +<div class="blockquot"><div class='hangindent'>One hot-water bag, good for all pains and aches, +and a comfort when one is chilly.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>One package pure ginger pulverized or ground, to +make hot ginger tea in case of chill, pains in the +bowels, or when you have met with an accidental +ducking or are wet through to the skin by rain. +Never mind if the tea does burn, ginger always +stings when helping one. Be a good sport, take +your medicine.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>One box of charcoal tablets for dyspepsia or +indigestion.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>One package bicarbonate of soda (baking-soda); +good for burns, sprinkle well with soda, see that +the burn is completely covered, then cover lightly +with cloth, and do not disturb it for a long time.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>One bottle of ammonia well corked. Tie the cork +down firmly <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[95]</a></span>in the bottle (<a href='#things'>Fig. 32</a>); a flannel +case or raffia covering will protect the glass +from breakage. Good to smell in case of faintness, +but care must be taken <i>not</i> to hold it <i>too near</i> +the <i>nose</i>, as the ammonia might injure the +delicate membranes, as would also smelling-salts. +Safer to move the bottle or cloth wet with ammonia +slowly back and forth near the nose. Good also for +insect bites.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>One roll of adhesive plaster. Cut into lengths for +holding covered ointment or poultice in place, the +strips criss-cross over the poultice, but are not +attached, the ends only are pressed on the bare +skin to which they firmly adhere.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>Two rolls of 2-½ or 3 inch wide surgeon bandages +(not gauze) for general use where bandages are +needed.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>One small package of absorbent cotton.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>Two mustard plasters, purchased at drug store; +good for stomachache.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>One package of powdered licorice to use as a +laxative. Dissolve a little licorice in water and +drink it. To keep the bowels open means to ward +off a host of evils. It is even more essential +that the inside of the body be kept clean than it +is to have the outside clean. To this end make a +practise of drinking a great deal of pure water; +drink it before breakfast, between meals (not at +meals), and before retiring. If you do this, you +will probably not need other laxative, especially +if you eat fruit either fresh or stewed. Fruit +should form part of every day's fare. <i>Keep your +bowels open.</i><br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>One tube of Carron oil, to use for burns or +scalds.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>One small bottle of camphor, for headaches.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>One small bag of salt—good dissolved in water, 1 +teaspoonful to 1 pint of water, for bathing tired +or inflamed eyes, often effects a cure. Good for +bathing affected spots of ivy poison, good for +sore-throat gargle, also for nosebleed; snuff, +then plug nose. Good for brushing teeth. For all +these dissolve salt in water in proportion as +given above.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>One white muslin 24-inch triangular bandage, for +arm sling or chest, jaw, and head bandage. A man's +large-sized <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[96]</a></span>white handkerchief can be used; never +bind broken skin with colored cloth.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>One bottle of fly dope, warranted to keep off +pestiferous flies and mosquitoes. All these may be +kept in one-half of a linen case of pockets, your +toilet articles in the other half, and the case +can be opened out and hung to the side of your +tent or shelter. </div></div> + + +<h3><br /><b>Check List for General Camp</b></h3> + +<div class="blockquot"><div class='hangindent'>Two basins, of light metal, paper or collapsible +rubber. The last is easy to pack and light to +carry. One basin will serve for several girls. If +you camp near a body of fresh water let that be +your basin; it will always be ready filled. No +need then to bring water to your shelter, for a +delightful dip in the river or lake every morning +before breakfast will obviate all necessity, and +do away with the otherwise needful hand-basin.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>One reliable map of location and surrounding +country for constant reference.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>One water-pail, light weight, for every two or +three girls. Can be canvas, aluminum, paper, +rubber, or your own selection in other materials.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>Six toilet-paper packages or more.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>One or more tents of water-proof material.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>One or more sod cloths for tent flooring.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>One or more inner tents of cheesecloth for +protection from mosquitoes, etc. These can be made +at home or purchased with the tents at the regular +camp-outfitters'. There is on the market a spray, +claimed to be absolutely effective against +mosquitoes, etc., and to keep both tent and camp +free from pests. One quart is said to last two +weeks with daily use. Cost, fifty cents per quart.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>One carborundum stone for sharpening all cutting +tools.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>One or more lanterns. Folding candle lanterns may +be purchased, but the simple ten-cent kind with +lamp-chimney for protection of candle are good. +They can be had at country stores in Cresco, Pa. +May possibly be found at camp-outfitters'. If a +glass chimney is to be used, pack <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[97]</a></span>most carefully. +Fill the inside of the chimney with stockings, +handkerchiefs, etc.; then wrap the chimney all +over with other soft clothing and tie securely. +Have this outside wrap very thick.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>One package of one-half length candles to use in +lantern.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>One <i>tin</i> box of one or two dozen safety-matches. +<i>Tin</i> will not catch fire from the matches.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>One strong tool-bag with separate labelled pockets +for different tools; each pocket with flap to +fasten securely with dress snaps. In this tool-bag +put assorted nails, mostly big, strong ones, +screws, awl, well-sealed bottle of strong glue, +ball of stout twine, a few rawhide thongs, three +or four yards of soft strong rope, a pair of +scissors, two spools of wire, and several yards of +cheesecloth.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>One rope—long for mountain-climbing. </div></div> + + +<h3><br /><b>Check List of Kitchen Utensils</b></h3> + +<div class="blockquot"><div class='hangindent'>Two dish-pans, one for piping-hot sudsy water for +washing dishes, the other for scalding-hot rinsing +water. The last pan can also be used for mixing +and bread-making. Select pans strong and of light +weight—canvas, aluminum, or tin—and be sure they +nest or fold.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>Two water-pails, fitted one within the other, both +light weight<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>One coffee-pot, size to fit in pails, must not be +too high. Cocoa can be made in the coffee-pot.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>One frying-pan, for corn-dodgers, flapjacks, fried +mush, eggs, etc.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>One folding camp-oven, for hot biscuits, bread +puddings, and many other good things relished by +hungry campers.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>One wash-basin, to be kept strictly for washing +hands, when cooking.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>One large spoon, for stirring and general use.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>One kitchen-knife, suitable for cutting bread, +carving meat, turning pancakes, etc.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>One kitchen-fork, strong and big, but not a +toasting-fork.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>One Dutch oven pot, a strong seamless pot with +cover, to use for baking, boiling, and stewing.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[98]</a></span><br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>Three dish-towels, washed after every meal.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>One dish mop or cloth, washed and dried after each +meal; dry in sun when possible.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>Four large cakes of soap.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>One thick holder, for lifting pots. Hang this up +in a certain place where it may always be found +when needed.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>One pepper and one salt shaker, small and light in +weight.<br /> +<br /></div> +<div class='hangindent'>One net air-bag, for meat, fish, and anything that +must be kept fresh (<a href='#things'>Fig. 33</a>) and protected from +the flies. Use strong net and two or more hoops +for the air-bag. With pincers you can twist the +two ends of strong wire together and make the +hoops of size large enough to hold the net out +away from a large piece of meat. Cut the net long +enough to stand above and hang below the meat. +Gather the top edge tightly together and sew it +fast; then sew the hoop near the top of the bag. +Other hoops on either side of centre of bag and a +hoop near bottom of bag, or sew only one hoop at +the top and one at the bottom. Have strong +draw-strings in the bottom of the bag, and fasten +a pendent hook at the top to hold the meat hanging +free inside of the bag. With copper wire attach a +good-sized ring on top of the bag, wire it through +the handle of the pendent hook and weld them +together. When in use, the bag should be suspended +high from the ground by means of a rope pulley run +through the top ring and over the limb of a +near-by tree. Similar air-bags can be obtained, if +desired, from camp-outfitters. </div></div> + +<p>When selecting cooking utensils for the camp, you will find those with +detachable handles pack better and for that reason are desirable.</p> + +<p>Do not forget that every check-list given may be reduced; don't think +you must include all the items. For these lists give outfits for +permanent as well as temporary camps. If you can manage with <i>one towel</i> +by washing it every day, or evening, allowing it to dry during the +night, one towel will be sufficient; leave the others at <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[99]</a></span>home. Drop +from the various lists every article you can possibly dispense with and +still be comfortable in camp.</p> + +<p>If you wear the camp suit travelling from home to camp, its weight and +bulk will be omitted from your camp pack, and be so much to your gain, +and you will maintain a good appearance notwithstanding, for if well +made and of proper fit the dress will be a suitable travelling costume.</p> + + +<h3><br />Camp Packs</h3> + +<p>When you intend carrying your belongings and striking the trail either +part or all the way to camp, the easiest method for portage is to stow +the things in a regular pack and fasten the pack on your back by means +of strong, long straps attached to the pack, and passed over your +shoulders and under your arms.</p> + +<p>A square of water-proof canvas makes a simple and good camp pack. Get a +nine-by-nine-feet (more or less) square of cloth, and it will be found +useful as shelter, fly, ground-cloth, windbreak, and in other ways after +reaching camp.</p> + + +<h3><br />What to Put in Your Pack</h3> + +<p>Open out your pack-cloth flat on the floor, and place your folded +mattress-bag in the centre.</p> + +<p>Fill the pillow-bag with your first-aid case and case of toilet +articles, and if there is space for other things pack them in. Lay the +pillow-bag on top of the mattress-bag, place clothing by the side and on +top of the pillow-bag, being careful to keep the contents of your pack +rectangular in shape and of size to fit well over your back.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 266px;"><a name="things" id="things"></a> +<img src="images/illus_p101.png" width="266" height="400" alt="Some things to carry and how to carry them." title="Some things to carry and how to carry them." /> +<span class="caption">Some things to carry and how to carry them.</span> +</div> + +<p>If not adding too much to the weight, include many things from your +personal-belonging list; of these articles you can carry some in the +pockets of your camp suit.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[100]</a></span> Everything being in the pack, fold over the +sides and ends, making a neat, compact bundle; tie it securely with a +piece of soft rope and across its top place the blankets with poncho +inside, which you have previously made into a roll to fit. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[101]</a></span>Bind pack and +blankets together, attach the pack shoulder-strap and swing the pack on +your back.</p> + +<p>Pack straps or harness can be obtained at any camp-outfitter's.</p> + +<p>A different style of pack may be a bag with square corners, all seams +strongly stitched, then bound with strong tape. Cut two pieces of the +water-proof cloth, one about sixteen inches wide, and the other eighteen +inches; this last is for the front and allows more space. Let each piece +be twenty-one inches long or longer, unite them with a strip of the +cloth six inches wide and sufficiently long to allow of flaps extending +free at the top to fold over from both sides across the opening; you +will then have a box-like bag. Make one large flap of width to fit the +top of the back, and length to cross over on front, covering the smaller +flaps and fastening down on the outside of the front of the pack. All +three flaps may have pockets to hold small articles.</p> + +<p>The shoulder-straps may be either of strong government webbing which +comes for the purpose, tube lamp-wick, or leather.</p> + +<p>With this pack the blanket and poncho could be made into a thin roll and +fitted around the edges of the pack, or made into a short roll and +attached to top of pack.</p> + +<p>When feasible it is a good plan to pack your smaller belongings in +wall-pockets with divisions protected by flaps securely fastened over +the open ends, the wall-pockets rolled, tied, and carried in the camp +pack. These pockets are useful at camp; they help to keep your things +where you can find them. Next best is to use small separate <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[102]</a></span>labelled +bags for different variety of duffel, and pack them in one or two duffel +tube-shaped bags, which may be bound together, constituting one pack.</p> + +<p>From eighteen to twenty-four pounds is average weight for a girl to +carry; it all depends upon strength and endurance; some girls can carry +even heavier packs, while others must have lighter ones. Beware about +loading yourself down too heavily. Packs grow heavier and heavier, never +lighter on the trail.</p> + + +<h3><br />Blanket-Roll Pack</h3> + +<p>Side-trips from camp for only one night's bivouac will not need a back +pack; the few articles required can be carried in your blanket-roll. +Spread the poncho out flat, rubber side down, then your blankets on top, +and group the things you intend to take into two separate oblong groups, +one on each side of the central space at one end of the blankets; push +the articles in each division closely together, leaving the space +between the divisions empty. Kneel in front of your blankets and begin +to roll all together tightly, taking care not to allow any of the duffel +to fall out. When the roll is complete, tie the centre with strong, soft +string, and also each end, and make a hoop of the roll by tying together +the hanging strings on the two ends. Wear the blanket-roll over left +shoulder, diagonally across back and chest to rest over right hip. If +you have forgotten a few items, tie the things to the bottom of the +blanket-roll and let them hang like tassels.</p> + + +<h3><br />Duffel-Bag</h3> + +<p>Articles for general use while at camp can be packed together in one or +more duffel-bags; if but one bag is needed, provisions might go in the +same receptacle when <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[103]</a></span>space and weight permit. It is much better, +however, to have a separate bag for provisions.</p> + + +<h3><br />Packing Provisions</h3> + +<p>You can make or buy separate tube bags of different heights, but all of +the same diameter, and pack flour in one, corn-meal in another, and so +on, having each bag labelled and all, when filled, fitted in one +duffel-bag; you will find these bags a great comfort. They should be of +water-proof canvas with draw-string at the top. You can purchase +friction-top cans for butter, etc., of varying depth to accommodate +different quantities which will fit well in the large provision bag.</p> + +<p>A duffel-bag is usually made cylindrical in form with a disk of the +cloth sewed in tight at one end, and the other end closed with +draw-strings. It is well to have another cloth disk attached to one spot +at the top of the bag, to cover the contents before the draw-strings are +fastened.</p> + +<p>A great variety of desirable camp packs, including duffel-bags, +pack-straps, harness, and tump-lines, may be purchased at the +camp-outfitter's; investigate before deciding upon home-made camp packs. +Pack-baskets can also be obtained, but all the good-sized pack-baskets I +have seen, while attractive in appearance, are too rigid, bulky, +sharp-edged, and heavy to be of use to girl campers.</p> + +<p>Having decided that the wilderness is the place to locate, unless you +can manage to camp with very little in the way of extra packs, you will +be obliged to employ a guide to assist in the carry, possibly two +guides, as wilderness trails do not permit of a vehicle, or even a mule +or horse, being used to help in the portage.</p> + +<p>Should your camp be on a more accessible site, the easy portage can be +taken advantage of and the problem readily solved; but the charm of the +real forest camp with <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[104]</a></span>all its possibilities for genuine life in the +wilderness more, far more, than compensates for the extra difficulties +in reaching camp. Really, though, the very difficulties are but part of +the sport; they give zest and add to the fun of the trail.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[105]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>CHAPTER V</h2> + +<h3>OUTDOOR HANDICRAFT</h3> + +<div class='center'><b>Camp Furnishings—Dressing-Table, Seats, Dining-Table, Cupboard, Broom, +Chair, Racks, Birch-Bark Dishes, etc.</b></div> + + +<p>Camp is the place where girls enjoy most proving their powers of +resourcefulness.</p> +<div><a name="handicraft" id="handicraft"></a></div> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 259px;"> +<img src="images/illus_p107.png" width="259" height="400" alt="Handicraft in the woods." title="Handicraft in the woods." /> +<span class="caption">Handicraft in the woods.<br />Details of the outdoor dressing-table. Comb-racks of forked sticks and +of split sticks.</span> +</div> +<p>It is fun to supply a want with the mere natural raw materials found in +the open, and when you succeed in making a useful article of outdoor +things, the entire camp takes a pride in your work and the simple but +practical and usable production gives a hundred per cent more pleasure +than could a store article manufactured for the same purpose.</p> + +<p>Be comfortable at camp. While it is good to live simply in the open, it +is also good to be comfortable in the open, and with experience you will +be surprised to find what a delightful life can be lived at camp with +but few belongings and the simplest of camp furnishings. These last can, +in a great measure, be made of tree branches and the various stuffs +found in the woods.</p> + + + + +<div class='center'><br /><big><b>Dressing-Table</b></big><br /></div> + +<p>A near-by tree will furnish the substantial foundation for your +dressing-table and wash-stand combined. If you can find a side-piece of +a wooden box, use it for the shelf and fasten this shelf on the trunk of +a tree about two and one-half feet or more above the ground. Cut two +rustic braces and nail the front of the shelf on the top <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[106]</a></span>ends of these +supports; then nail a strip of wood across the tree as a cleat on which +to rest the back of the shelf; fit the shelf on the cleat and nail the +lower ends of the braces to the tree; <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[107]</a></span>strengthen the work still more by +driving a strong, long nail on each side of the top centre of the back +of shelf, diagonally down through the shelf, cleat, and into the tree.</p> + +<p>It is not essential that the straight shelf edge fit perfectly to the +rounded tree, but if you desire to have it so, mark a semicircle on the +wood of size to fit the tree and whittle it out.</p> + +<p>Should there be no piece of box for your shelf, make the shelf of +strong, slender sticks lashed securely close together on two side +sticks. For cleats and braces use similar sticks described for board +shelf.</p> + +<p>When the shelf is made in this way, cover the top with birch bark or +other bark to give a flat surface.</p> + +<p>Hang your mirror on a nail in the tree at convenient distance above the +shelf, and your tooth-brush on another nail. The towel may hang over the +extending end of the cleat, and you can make a small bark dish for the +soap. Your comb can rest on two forked-stick supports tacked on the +tree, or two split-end sticks.</p> + + +<div class='center'><br /><big><b>Camp-Seats</b></big><br /></div> + +<p>Stones, logs, stumps, raised outstanding roots of trees, and boxes, when +obtainable, must be your outdoor chairs, stools, and seats until others +can be made.</p> +<div><a name="table" id="table"></a></div> +<div class="figright" style="width: 277px;"> +<img src="images/illus_p109.png" width="277" height="400" alt="Outdoor dressing-table, camp-cupboard, hammock-frame, seat, and pot-hook." title="Outdoor dressing-table, camp-cupboard, hammock-frame, seat, and pot-hook." /> +<span class="caption">Outdoor dressing-table, camp-cupboard, hammock-frame, seat, and pot-hook.</span> +</div> + +<p>Two trees standing near together may be used to advantage as uprights +for a camp seat. Cut a small horizontal kerf or notch at the same height +on opposite sides of both trees, get two strong poles (green wood), fit +them in the wedges and nail them to the trees; then lash them firmly in +place. Be absolutely certain that these poles <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[108]</a></span>are of strong wood, +firmly attached to the trees and not liable to slide or break.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[109]</a></span></p> + +<p>Make the seat by lashing sticks across from pole to pole, placing them +close together. Two more long poles, fastened to the trees at a proper +distance above the seat, would give a straight back, if a back is +desired, but it is not essential; with a folded blanket spread over it, +the seat alone is a luxury.</p> + + +<div class='center'><br /><big><b>Camp-Table</b></big><br /></div> + +<p>A table can be built in much the same way as the seat and will answer +the purpose well if one of boards is not to be had. For the table make +your crosspieces about twenty-two inches long, nail them ladder-like but +close together on two poles, and make this table top flat on the surface +by covering it with birch bark tacked on smoothly. Having previously +fastened two other poles across from tree to tree, as you did when +making the seat, you can lift the table top and lay it on the two +foundation poles; then bind it in place and the table will be finished. +Another way of using the table top is to drive four strong, stout, +forked sticks into the ground for the four table legs and place the +table top across, resting the long side poles in the crotches of the +stakes, where they may be lashed in place.</p> + +<p>Benches for the table can be made in like manner, only have the +forked-stick legs shorter, raising the seat about eighteen inches above +the ground.</p> +<div><a name="chair" id="chair"></a></div> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 309px;"> +<img src="images/illus_p111.png" width="309" height="400" alt="Camp-chair, biscuit-stick, and blanket camp-bed." title="Camp-chair, biscuit-stick, and blanket camp-bed." /> +<span class="caption">Camp-chair, biscuit-stick, and blanket camp-bed.</span> +</div> + + +<div class='center'><br /><big><b>Camp-Cupboard</b></big><br /></div> + +<p>A cupboard made of a wooden box by inserting shelves, held up by means +of cleats, will be found very convenient when nailed to a tree near the +cook-fire. Hang a door <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[110]</a></span>on the cupboard which will close tight and +fasten securely. Have this in mind when making out your check list, and +add hinges, with screws to fit, to your camp tools.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[111]</a></span></p> + + +<div class='center'><br /><big><b>Camp-Broom</b></big><br /></div> + +<p>With a slender pole as a handle, hickory shoots, or twisted fibre of +inner bark of slippery-elm, for twine, and a thick bunch of the top +branchlets of balsam, spruce, hemlock, or pine for the brush part, you +can make a broom by binding the heavy ends of the branches tight to an +encircling groove cut on the handle some three inches from the end. Cut +the bottom of the brush even and straight.</p> + + +<div class='center'><br /><big><b>Camp-Chair</b></big><br /></div> + +<p>If you have a good-size length of canvas or other strong cloth, make a +camp-chair. For the back use two strong, forked stakes standing upright, +and use two long poles with branching stubs at equal distance from the +bottom, for the sides and front legs of the chair; in the crotches of +these stubs the bottom stick on which the canvas strip is fastened will +rest.</p> + +<p>Each side pole must be fitted into one of the forked high-back stakes, +and then the top stick on the canvas strip must be placed in the same +crotches, but in front of and resting against the side poles, thus +locking the side poles firmly in place.</p> + +<p>To fasten the canvas on the two sticks, cut one stick to fit across the +chair-back and the other to fit across the lower front stubs. Fold one +end of the canvas strip over one stick and nail the canvas on it, so +arranging the cloth that the row of nails will come on the under side of +the stick. Turn in the edge first that the nails may go through the +double thickness of cloth. Adjust this canvas-cov<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[112]</a></span>ered stick to the top +of the chair, allowing the cloth to form a loose hanging seat; measure +the length needed for back and seat, cut it off and nail the loose end +of the canvas strip to the other stick; then fit one stick in the top of +the upright back stakes and the other stick in the bottom stubs.</p> + + +<div class='center'><br /><big><b>Camp Clothes-Press</b></big><br /></div> + +<p>If you are in a tent tie a hanging pole from the tent ridge-pole, and +use it as a clothes-press.</p> + + +<div class='center'><br /><big><b>Blanket Bed</b></big><br /></div> + +<p>Two short logs will be required for your blanket bed, the thicker the +better, one for the head and one for the foot, also two long, strong, +green-wood poles, one for each side of the bed; your blanket will be the +mattress.</p> + +<p>Fold the blanket, making the seam, formed by bringing the two ends +together, run on the under-side along the centre of the doubled blanket, +not on the edge. Lap and fasten the blanket ends together with large +horse-blanket safety-pins, and with the same kind of pins make a case on +each side of the blanket fold; then run one of the poles through each +case. Chop a notch near each end of the two short logs; in these notches +place the ends of the poles and nail them securely. Have the short logs +thick enough to raise the bed up a few inches from the ground, and make +the notches sufficiently far apart to stretch the mattress out smooth, +not have it sag. A strip of canvas or khaki may be used in place of the +blanket if preferred.</p> + + +<div class='center'><br /><big><b>Camp Hammock</b></big><br /></div> + +<p>By lashing short crosspieces to the head and foot of the side poles the +blanket mattress can be a hammock <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[113]</a></span>and swing between two trees, having +been attached to them with rope or straps of slippery-elm, beech, or +black birch.</p> + +<div><a name="bark" id="bark"></a></div> +<div class="figright" style="width: 274px;"> +<img src="images/illus_p115.png" width="274" height="400" alt="The birch-bark dish that will hold fluids. Details of making." title="The birch-bark dish that will hold fluids. Details of making." /> +<span class="caption">The birch-bark dish that will hold fluids. Details of making.</span> +</div> + +<div class='center'><br /><big><b>Birch-Bark Dishes</b></big><br /></div> + +<p>It will be easy for girls to make their birch-bark dinner plates, +vegetable dishes, baskets, dippers, etc. Soften the thick bark by +soaking it in water; when it is pliable cut one plate the size you wish, +lay it on a flat stone or other hard substance and scrape off the +outside bark around the edges, allowing the outer bark to remain on the +bottom of the plate to give greater strength; use this plate as a guide +in cutting each of the others.</p> + +<p>With your fingers shape the edges of the plates in an upward turn while +the bark is wet, using the smoothest side for the inside of the plate.</p> + +<p>A large bark cornucopia with bark strap-handle can be made and carried +on the arm in place of a basket when off berrying.</p> + +<p>Variations of circular, oblong, and rectangular bark dishes may be +worked out from strips and rectangular pieces of birch bark, and all +dishes can be turned into baskets by adding handles. When necessary to +sew the edges of bark together, always have the bark wet and soft; then +lap the edges and use a very coarse darning-needle with twine of +inner-bark fibre or rootlets; have ready hot melted grease mixed with +spruce gum to coat over the stitching and edges of the article, or you +can use white-birch resin for the same purpose.</p> + +<p>The bark utensils will wear longer if a slender rootlet or branchlet of +pliable wood is sewed, with the "over-and-over" stitch, to the edge of +the article.</p> + +<p>For round and oblong dishes or baskets, sew together the two ends of +your strip of wet bark; then sew the round or oblong bottom on the lower +edge of the bark circle. In <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[114]</a></span>this case it is not easy to lap the edges, +simply bring them together and finish the seam with the addition of the +slender rootlet binding.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[115]</a></span></p> + +<p>Rectangular dishes are made by folding the wet bark according to the +diagrams and fastening the folds near the top of both ends of the +receptacle. These will hold liquids.</p> + + +<div class='center'><br /><big><b>Cooking Utensils</b></big><br /></div> + +<p>A forked stick with points sharpened makes a fine toasting-fork or +broiling-stick for bacon or other small pieces of meat. The meat is +stuck on the two prongs and held over the fire.</p> + +<p>A split-end stick may be used for the same purpose by wedging the bacon +in between the two sides of the split.</p> + +<p>Your rolling-pin can be a peeled, straight, smooth, round stick, and a +similar stick, not necessarily straight but longer, may do duty as a +biscuit baker when a strip of dough is wound spirally around it and held +over the fire.</p> + +<p>A hot flat stone can also be used for baking biscuits, and a large +flat-topped rock makes a substitute for table and bread-board combined.</p> + +<p>If you have canned goods, save every tin can when empty, melt off the +top, and with nail and hammer puncture a hole on two opposite sides near +the top, and fasten in a rootlet handle. These cans make very +serviceable and useful cooking-pails.</p> + +<p>Whittle out a long-handled cake-turner from a piece of thin split wood, +and also whittle out a large flat fork.</p> + +<p>Make a number of pot-hooks of different lengths, they are constantly +needed at camp; select strong green sticks with a crotch on one end and +drive a nail slantingly into the wood near the bottom of the stick on +which to hang <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[116]</a></span>kettles, pots, etc. Be sure to have the nail turn up and +the short side of the crotch turn down as in diagram.</p> + +<p>Campers employ various methods of making candlesticks. One method is to +lash a candle to the side of the top of a stake driven into the ground, +or the stake can have a split across the centre of the top, and the +candle held upright by a strip of bark wedged in the split with a loop +on one side holding the candle and the two ends of the bark extending +out beyond the other side of the stake. Again the candle is stuck into a +little mound of clay, mud, or wet sand. If you have an old glass bottle, +crack off the bottom by pouring a little water in the bottle and placing +it for a short while on the fire embers; then plant your candle in the +ground and slide the neck of the bottle over the candle. Steady it by +planting the neck of the bottle a little way in the ground and the glass +bottle will act as a windbreak for your candle.</p> + +<p>Never leave a candle burning even for a moment unless some one is +present; it is a dangerous experiment. Fire cannot be trifled with. <i>Put +out</i> your candle before leaving it.</p> + +<p>A good idea before going away from camp when vacation is over is to +photograph all the different pieces of your outdoor handicraft, and when +the prints are made label each one with the month, date, and year and +state material used, time required in the making, and comments on the +work by other camp members.</p> + +<p>Be sure to take photographs of different views of the camp as a whole, +also of each separate shelter, both the outside and the inside, and have +pictures of all camp belongings.</p> + +<p>The authors will be greatly interested in seeing these.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[117]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="bear" id="bear"></a><img src="images/illus_p118-tb.jpg" alt="A bear would rather be your friend than your enemy." title="A bear would rather be your friend than your enemy." /></div> +<div class='center'>A bear would rather be your friend than your enemy.</div> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[118]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>CHAPTER VI</h2> + +<h3>MAKING FRIENDS WITH THE OUTDOOR FOLK</h3> + +<div class='center'><b>In the Woods, the Fields, on the Shore. Stalking Animals and Birds</b></div> + + +<p>There is but one way to make friends with the folk of the wild, and that +is by gentleness, kindness, and quietness. Also one must learn to be +fearless. It is said that while animals may not understand our language +they do understand, or feel, our attitude toward them; and if it is that +of fear or dislike we stand little chance of really knowing them, to say +nothing of establishing any kind of friendly relations with them. By +quiet watchfulness, keenness of sight and hearing, you may obtain a +certain amount of knowledge of their ways, but when you add real +sympathy and kindly feeling you gain their confidence and friendship. +Make them understand that you will not interfere with or harm them, and +they will go about their own affairs unafraid in your presence. Then you +may silently watch their manner of living, their often amusing habits, +and their frank portrayal of character. As a guest in the wild, +conducting yourself as a courteous guest should, you will be well +treated by your wild hosts, some of whom, in time, may even permit you +to feed and stroke them. They do not dislike but fear you; they would +rather be your friends than your enemies. The baby animal which has not +yet learned to fear a human being will sometimes, when in danger, run to +you for protection. This must win your heart if nothing else can.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[119]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="grouse" id="grouse"></a><img src="images/illus_p120-tb.jpg" alt="Making friends with a ruffed grouse." title="Making friends with a ruffed grouse." /></div> +<div class='center'>Making friends with a ruffed grouse.</div> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[120]</a></span></p> + + +<h3><br />Stalking</h3> + +<p>You may stalk an animal by remaining quiet as well as by following its +trail. To even see some of the inhabitants of woods, fields, and shore +you must be willing to exercise great patience and conform to their +method of hiding by remaining absolutely still. It is the thing that +moves that they fear. Some of the animals appear not even to see a +person who remains motionless. At any rate, they ignore him as they do a +stump or stone.</p> + +<p>For this quiet stalking, find as comfortable a seat as you can where you +have reason to think some kind of animal or animals will pass and resign +yourself to immovable waiting. If the rock beneath you grows +unreasonably hard or the tree roots develop sharp edges, or the ground +sends up unnoticed stones of torment; if your foot "goes to sleep" or +your nose itches, bear the annoyances bravely and your reward will be +sure and ample. If the wait is unduly long and movement of some kind +becomes imperative, let such movement be made so slowly as to be almost +imperceptible. Remember that unseen, suspicious eyes will be attracted +by any sudden action and the faintest sound will be heard, for these +spell danger to the wilderness folk and if frightened away they are not +apt to return.</p> + +<p>Keep your ears open to detect the first sound of approaching life. There +is a thrill in this experience, and another when the animal you have +heard comes boldly out before you. Then it is you will find that, in +some mysterious way, all bodily discomfort has vanished. Your whole +being is absorbed in the movements of the creature who is unconscious of +your presence, and there is no room for other sensations. More animals +may appear and perhaps a little drama may be enacted as if for your +benefit.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[121]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="found" id="found"></a> +<img src="images/illus_p122.png" width="600" height="341" alt="Found on the trail." title="Found on the trail." /> +<span class="caption">Found on the trail.<br /> +Chipmunk and white-footed mouse, panther, kangaroo rat, raccoon, and +weasel.</span> +</div> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[122]</a></span></p> + +<p>It may be a tragedy, it may be a comedy, or it may be only a bit of +every-day family life; but you do not know the plot nor how many actors +will take part, and your very uncertainty adds zest to the situation.</p> + + +<h3><br />Animals Found on the Trail</h3> + +<p>The animals most frequently seen in the woods where there is no longer +any large game are the chipmunk, the red, the gray, and the black +squirrel, the rabbit and hare, the fox, weasel, pine-marten, woodchuck, +raccoon, opossum, and skunk, also the pack-rat (of the west), the +white-footed and field mouse. In deeper and wilder forests there are +deer and porcupine, though deer are found quite near habitations at +times. In more remote places there are the moose and caribou; the bear, +mountain-lion, lynx or wildcat, and the timber-wolf. The wolf is, +however, equally at home in the open and at this day is most plentiful +on the wide plains of the west. Unless your trail leads through the +remote wilderness, you will hardly come across the more savage animals, +and when you do invade their territory it will give you greater courage +to call to mind the fact that they, as well as the smaller wild things, +are afraid of man. Our most experienced hunters and our best writers on +the subject of animal life agree that a wild animal's first emotion upon +seeing a human being is undoubtedly <i>fear</i>. When you come upon one +suddenly you may feel sure that he is as much frightened as you are and +will probably turn aside to avoid you unless he thinks you are going to +attack him. All wild creatures are afraid of fire, therefore the +camp-fire is a barrier they will not pass, and a blazing firebrand will +drive any of them away.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[123]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="wolves" id="wolves"></a><img src="images/illus_p124-tb.jpg" alt="Timber wolves." title="Timber wolves." /></div> +<div class='center'>Timber wolves.</div> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[124]</a></span></p> + + +<h3><br />Birds</h3> + +<p>Among the feathered tribes of the woods you will find the owl, the +woodcock, and the grouse. Of the smaller birds, the nuthatch, the wood +and hermit thrush, whippoorwill, woodpeckers, wood-pewee, and others. +Most of the birds prefer the edge of the woods, where they can dip into +the sunshine and take long flights through the free air of the open; but +the hermit-thrush, shyest and sweetest of singers, makes his home deep +in the silent, shadowy forest. In these depths, and oftenest near a bog +or marsh, you may also hear the call of the partridge, or more properly, +the ruffed grouse. As given by the writer William J. Long, the call is +like this:</p> + +<p>"Prut, prut, pr-r-r-rt! Whit-kwit? Pr-r-r-rt, pr-r-r-rt! Ooo-it, ooo-it? +Pr-r-reeee!"</p> + +<p>Or perhaps you will be startled by the rolling drum-call. This begins +slowly, increases rapidly, and ends something like this: "Dum! dum! dum! +dum-dum-dum-dumdumdum!" The drum-call is made by the male bird who, +beating the air with his wings, produces the sound. It is said to be a +mating-call, but is heard at other times as well, long after the +mating-season is over.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="moose" id="moose"></a><img src="images/illus_p126-tb.jpg" alt="Baby moose." title="Baby moose." /></div> +<div class='center'>Baby moose.</div> + + + +<h3><br />Stalking the Ruffed Grouse</h3> + +<p>If you want to see the birds, stalk them when you hear their call. Wait +until you locate the direction of the sound, then walk silently and +follow it. As soon as the birds are sighted slip from one tree to +another, stopping instantly when you think they may see you, until you +can conceal yourself behind a bush, tree, or stump near enough for you +to peer around and have a good view of your game. It may sometimes be +necessary to drop to <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[125]</a></span>your knees in order to keep out of sight. If you +have heard the drum it is the cock that you have stalked and, if early +in the season, you will soon see his demure little mate steal through +the underbrush to meet her lordly master as he stands proudly on an old +log awaiting her. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[126]</a></span>The "whit-kwit" call may lead you to the hen grouse +with her brood of little chicks which are so much the color of the brown +leaves you will not see them until they move. If the call comes later in +the year you may come upon a flock of well-grown young birds who have +left their mother and are now following a leader.</p> + +<p>The ruffed grouse is a beautiful bird. He is yellowish-brown or rusty, +splashed with black or dark brown, and white, with under-parts of a +light buff. His beak is short and on his small, dainty head he carries +his crest proudly. His shoulders bear epaulets of dark feathers, called +the ruff, and his fan-like tail is banded and cross-barred. The nest of +the grouse is on the ground, usually against a fallen log, at the foot +of a tree, or in a hollow made by the roots; or it may be hidden amid +underbrush. It is easily overlooked, being made of dry leaves with, +perhaps, some feathers. In the season it contains from eight to fourteen +eggs.</p> + + +<h3><br />Woodcock</h3> + +<p>The woodcock, another forest bird, seldom shows himself in broad +daylight except when hunted; then he will rise a few feet, fly a short +distance, drop and run, hiding again as quickly as he can. You will know +the woodcock from the ruffed grouse by his <i>long bill</i>, his short legs, +and his very short tail. He frequents the banks of wooded streams or the +bogs of the forests and, like the grouse, nests on the ground; but the +woodcock's nest seldom contains more than four eggs.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[127]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="stalking" id="stalking"></a><img src="images/illus_p128-tb.jpg" alt="Stalking wild birds." title="Stalking wild birds." /></div> +<div class='center'>Stalking wild birds.</div> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[128]</a></span></p> + + +<h3><br />Beaver</h3> + +<p>Along the shores of sluggish streams, of lonely lakes and ponds, you may +see the beaver, the muskrat, very rarely the otter, and sometimes an +ugly little, long-bodied animal belonging to the marten family called +the fisher. These are all interesting, each in its own way, and well +worth hours of quiet observation. The beaver, otter, and fisher choose +wild, secluded places for their homes, but the muskrat may be found also +in the marshes of farm lands. On the edges of our Long Island meadows +the boys trap muskrats for their skins.</p> + +<p>You will find the beaver house in the water close to the shore and +overlapping it. Though strongly and carefully built, it looks very much +like a jumble of small driftwood, with bleached sticks well packed +together, and the ends standing out at all angles. The sticks are +stripped of their bark and the house gleams whitely against the dark +water. The houses vary in size, some being built as high as five feet. +The beaver is rarely seen early in the day, most of his work is done at +night, so the best time to watch for him is just before dusk or perhaps +an hour before sundown. It is not well to wait to see the beaver if your +trail back to camp is a long one, leading through dense forests. You +would far better postpone making its acquaintance than to risk going +over the, perhaps, treacherous paths after dark. Night comes early in +the woods and darkness shuts down closely while it is still light in the +open. If your camp is near the beaver house or beaver dam, or if your +trip can be made by water, then, with no anxiety about your return, you +can sit down and calmly await the coming of this most skilful of all +building animals, and may see him add material to his house, or go on +with his work of cutting down a tree, as a reward for your patience.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[129]</a></span></p> + + +<h3><br />Fish-Hawk, Osprey</h3> + +<p>On the shore you will also find the fish-hawk, or osprey; a +well-mannered bird he is said to be, who fishes diligently and attends +strictly to his own business. The fish-hawk's nest will generally be at +the top of a dead tree where no one may disturb or look into it, though, +as the accompanying photograph shows, it is sometimes found on rocks +near the ground. The young hawks have a way of their own of defending +themselves from any climbing creature, and to investigators of the nest +the results are disastrously disagreeable as well as laughable. As the +intruder climbs near, the baby birds put their heads over the sides of +the nest and empty their stomachs upon him. This is vouched for by a +well-known writer who claims to have gone through the experience.</p> + +<p>The female osprey is larger and stronger than the male. On slowly moving +wings she sails over the water, dropping suddenly to clutch in her +strong talons the fish her keen eyes have detected near the surface of +the water. Fish are fish to the osprey and salt waters or fresh are the +same to her. I have watched the bird plunge into the waves of the ocean, +on the coast of Maine, to bring out a cunner almost too large for her to +carry, and I have seen her drop into the placid waters of an Adirondack +lake for lake-trout in the same manner.</p> + + +<h3><br />Blue Heron</h3> + +<p>The great blue heron is one of the shore folk and his metallic blue-gray +body gleams in the sunlight, as you sight him from your canoe, standing +tall and slim, a lonely figure on the bank. He flies slowly and +majestically, with his long legs streaming out behind. When out in a +small boat on Puget Sound a large heron escorted us <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[130]</a></span>some distance. As +we rowed near the shore he would fly ahead and then wait for us, +standing solemnly on a stone in the water or a partially submerged log, +to fly again as we approached.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[131]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="hawk" id="hawk"></a><img src="images/illus_p131-tb.jpg" alt="The fish-hawk will sometimes build near the ground." title="The fish-hawk will sometimes build near the ground." /></div> +<div class='center'>The fish-hawk will sometimes build near the ground.</div> + + +<p>This escort business seems to be a habit of the heron family, for the +same thing occurred on the Tomoca River, Fla., the home of the +alligator, when a small, brilliantly blue heron flew ahead of our boat +for several miles, always stopping to wait for us, and then going on +again.</p> + +<p>The heron is a fisher and when you see him standing close to the water, +on one foot perhaps, he is awaiting his game. It matters not how long he +must remain immovable, there he will stand until the fish comes within +striking distance, when the long, curved neck will shoot out like a +snake and the strong beak grasp its unwary prey.</p> + + +<h3><br />Loon, Great Northern Diver</h3> + +<p>Another interesting bird, which you may both hear and see on secluded +lakes, is the loon or great northern diver. I first heard the wild cry +of the loon, a lonesome and eerie sound, on Pine River Pond, a small +lake in the foot-hills of the White Mountains. There I saw the great +bird dive and disappear beneath the water to remain an alarmingly long +time, and then come up several hundred yards away, and rising, fly +slowly to the shore. It is always a matter for guessing when the loon +dives, for you can never tell where she will come up. This great diver +is a large black-and-white bird, about the size of a goose. The breast +is white, head black, and a white ring encircles its black neck. Its +beak is long, its legs very short and placed far back on the body. It is +essentially a water-bird, and on shore is both slow and awkward. I do +not think it possible to become very intimate with the loon, for it is +one of the wildest of our birds, and so suspicious <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[132]</a></span>it will allow no +close approach, but quiet watching will reveal many of its interesting +characteristics. Some one once found the nest of a loon and brought me a +little, downy, young one that I might try to tame it; but it lived only +a day or two in spite of all the devotion expended upon it, and its +wild, frightened cry was too pathetic to allow of another experiment of +the kind.</p> + + +<h3><br />Animals and Birds of the Open</h3> + +<p>You will find that the wild life of the open differs in some respects +from that of the woods, though there will be the woodchuck, the rabbit, +the fox, and the hare in the fields and farm lands as well as in the +woods. The weasel, too, makes unwelcome visits to the farm, but besides +these there are other animals that are seldom or never found in the +woods.</p> + + +<h3><br />Field-Mouse</h3> + +<p>There is the little field-mouse, a short-eared and short-tailed little +creature with a thick neck and of a red-brown color. It feeds on grain +and seeds, and when hard pressed for food will also eat the bark of +trees.</p> + + +<h3><br />Kangaroo-Rat, Jumping Mouse</h3> + +<p>In the underbrush near a meadow and at the edges of thickets you may +possibly see, though they are not common, a diminutive animal, beautiful +in form and color and of most interesting habits. In the Southwest it is +called the kangaroo-rat, but North and East it is known as the jumping +mouse. The name kangaroo-rat is given because of its short fore legs, +strong hind legs, and the kangaroo-like leaps it makes. In temper it is +very unlike the ordinary rat; it does not bite and can be safely +handled, but will not live if kept in captivity.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">[133]</a></span></p> + + +<h3><br />Pocket-Gopher</h3> + +<p>The pocket-gopher lives and burrows in the fields. It is a mole-like +animal but much larger than the common mole. Its legs are short and its +front feet strong, with long nails for digging. The fur is soft and +silky and dark brown in color. Where the gopher is there may be found +the weasel, his greatest enemy. It should be an even fight between them, +for they are equally matched in ill-temper and savageness, and are near +of a size though the gopher is the heavier.</p> + + +<h3><br />Antelope</h3> + +<p>On the great plains of the west you may still see the beautiful and +gentle antelope, though that animal is fast disappearing, while the +thieving coyote thrives and multiplies in the same region.</p> + + +<h3><br />Coyote, Prairie-Wolf</h3> + +<p>The coyote, or prairie-wolf, is about the size of a large dog and +resembles one. Its color is gray, made by a mixture of black and white +hairs. It is a cowardly animal and not dangerous, but its contemptible +character could not prevent a wave of compassion that came over me when +I saw one poor creature caged in a wooden box and holding up the bloody +stump where its fore foot had been torn off by the cruel and barbarous +steel trap.</p> + + +<h3><br />Spermophile</h3> + +<p>In the Middle West, especially in Indiana, the little spermophile, +sometimes called the ground-squirrel, is common and not afraid to +venture into the outskirts of a village. One variety wears spotted brown +and yellow stripes down its back, another is gray, but all are about +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">[134]</a></span>the size of a gray squirrel. On the western prairies are the comical +little prairie-dogs. You can see them sitting up on their haunches +watching the train as it carries you over the great plains.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[135]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter"><a name="antelope" id="antelope"></a><img src="images/illus_p135-tb.jpg" alt="Antelopes of the western plains." title="Antelopes of the western plains." /></div> +<div class='center'>Antelopes of the western plains.</div> + + + +<h3><br />Bobolink</h3> + +<p>The birds of the open are varied and many. Most of the forest birds are +seen occasionally in the fields, but some birds make their homes in the +open. You will find the bobolink's nest in a hay-field or down among the +red clover. The bobolink of the north is a sweet singer and is pretty in +his black and white feathers with a touch of yellow at the back of his +head. There are creamy-yellow feathers down his back, too, but they are +not noticeable. When he goes south the male loses his pretty coat and, +clad like his mate in yellowish-brown, is known as the rice-bird because +he feeds on the rice crops. Here he is killed because he is considered a +robber, and eaten because he is considered a delicacy.</p> + + +<h3><br />Meadow-Lark</h3> + +<p>Early spring trailing through the meadows will bring you the cheery song +of the meadow-lark: "Spring-o-the-year!" Stalk him carefully and you +will find a large brown bird with yellow breast and a black crescent on +his throat. The meadow-lark is about the size of a quail. He stands +erect when he sings, and he has a rather long beak. The nest can be +found, if you look for it, but is generally out of sight under a +loosened clod of earth or tuft of grass.</p> + + +<h3><br />Red-Winged Blackbird</h3> + +<p>The red-winged blackbird with his sweet call of "O-ka-lie," or +"Ouchee-la-ree-e!" you will also find on the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">[136]</a></span>meadows and marshes. He +builds his nest among the reeds and is one of the first of our spring +birds in the north.</p> + + +<h3><br />Song Sparrow</h3> + +<p>The little song sparrow loves the open and the hot summer sunshine. +Trailing along a country road at midday, when most of the other birds +are still, you will find the song sparrow sitting on a rail fence +singing with undiminished enthusiasm.</p> + +<p>To make friends with the birds provide food and water for them, then sit +down and wait quietly until they appear. Let them become accustomed to +seeing you sitting still every day for a while, then begin slow, careful +movements, gradually becoming more natural, and in time the birds will +allow you to walk among them as you please, if you are careful never to +frighten them. You can do this in camp; you can do it at home if you are +not living in a city. The trustful friendship of animals and birds opens +a new path of happiness and one that all girls should be able, in some +measure, to enjoy.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[137]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>CHAPTER VII</h2> + +<h3>WILD FOOD ON THE TRAIL</h3> + +<div class='center'><b>Edible Fruits, Nuts, Roots, and Plants</b></div> + + +<p>While wild foods gathered on the trail give a delightful variety to camp +fare, be advised and do not gather, still less eat, them unless you are +absolutely sure you know what they are and that they are not poisonous. +You must be able to identify a thing with certainty before tasting in +order to enjoy it in safety. It is well worth while to make a study of +the wild-growing foods, but in the meantime this chapter will help you +to know some of them. <i>The italicized names are of the things I know to +be edible from personal experience.</i> You are probably well acquainted +with the common wild fruits such as the raspberry, strawberry, +blackberry, blueberry, and huckleberry, but there are varieties of these +and all will bear description.</p> + + +<h3><br />Red Raspberry</h3> + +<p>The wild berry often has a more delicious flavor and perfume than the +cultivated one of the same species. Nothing can approach the wonderful +and delicate flavor of the little wild strawberry, unless it is the wild +red raspberry; and the fully ripe wild blackberry holds a spicy +sweetness that makes the garden blackberry taste tame and flat in +comparison.</p> + +<p>The <i>wild red raspberry</i> is found in open fields and growing along +fences and the sides of the road. The flowers are white and grow in +loose clusters, while the berry, when fully ripe, is a deep, translucent +red. The <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">[138]</a></span>bush is shrubby, is generally about waist-high, and the stems +bear small, hooked prickles. The leaves are what is called compound, +being composed of three or five leaflets, usually three, which branch +out from the main stem like the leaves of the rose-bush. The edges of +the leaves are irregularly toothed.</p> + +<p>The berry is cup-shaped and fits over a core which is called the +receptacle, and from which it loosens when ripe to drop easily into your +hand, leaving the receptacle and calyx on the stem. The sweet, +far-carrying perfume of the gathered wild red raspberry will always +identify it. The season for fruit is July and August.</p> + + +<h3><br />Black Raspberry</h3> + +<p>The growth and leaves of the <i>wild black raspberry</i> are like those of +the red raspberry, and it is found in the same localities. The fruit, +like the other, is cup or thimble shaped and grows on a receptacle from +which it loosens when fully ripe. Blackcaps, these berries are often +called. They ripen in July. The berry is sometimes a little dry, but the +flavor is sweet and fine.</p> + + +<h3><br />Purple-Flowering Raspberry</h3> + +<p>The purple-flowering raspberry is acid and insipid; it can hardly be +called edible, though it is not poisonous. You will find it clambering +among the rocks on the mountainside and in rocky soil. The leaves are +large and resemble grape leaves, while the flower is large, purplish-red +in color, and grows in loose clusters.</p> + + +<h3><br />Mountain Raspberry, Cloudberry</h3> + +<p>The usual home of the mountain raspberry, or cloudberry, is on the +mountain-tops among the clouds. You <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[139]</a></span>will find it in the White Mountains +and on the coast of Maine, and it has recently been discovered at +Montauk Point, L. I. The fruit has a pleasant flavor of a honey-like +sweetness. The receptacle of the berry is broad and flat, the color is +yellow touched with red where exposed to the sun. It does not grow in +clusters like the other raspberries, but is solitary. The leaves are +roundish with from five to nine lobes, something like the leaves of the +geranium. The plant grows low, is without prickles, and the solitary +flowers are white. In the far north, where it is found in great +profusion, the cloudberry is made into delicious jam.</p> + + +<h3><br />Wild Strawberry</h3> + +<p>When crossing sandy knolls or open, uncultivated fields and pastures, +the alluring perfume of the <i>wild strawberry</i> will sometimes lead you to +the patch which shows the bright-red little berry on its low-growing +plant. It is common everywhere, though it bears the name of wild +Virginia strawberry. In Latin it is most appropriately called +<i>Fragaria</i>, meaning fragrant. The leaves are compound with three +coarsely toothed, hairy leaflets. The small white flowers grow in sparse +clusters on rather long, hairy stems. They have many deep yellow stamens +which are surrounded by the fine white petals. In fruiting time the +leaves are often bright-red.</p> + + +<h3><br />Low Running Blackberry</h3> + +<p>Among the mountains and hills, down in the valleys, and on the plains; +straggling along roadsides, clinging to fence rails, and sprawling over +rocks, you will find the wild blackberry. There are several varieties, +and blackberries of some kind are common throughout the United States.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[140]</a></span></p> + +<p>The <i>low running blackberry</i> belongs to the dewberry type and bears the +largest and juiciest berries. It is a trailing vine with compound leaves +of from four to seven leaflets which are double-toothed. The berries are +black and glossy and grow in small clusters. They are sweet and pulpy +when thoroughly ripe and the best ones are those which ripen slowly +under the shelter of the leaves.</p> + +<p>Blackberries grow on a receptacle or core, but unlike the raspberry, +they do not separate from it. When ripe they drop easily from the calyx +carrying the receptacle with them. The flowers are small and white, and +grow in clusters.</p> + + +<h3><br />Running Swamp Blackberry</h3> + +<p>Perhaps you have seen the blackberry with fruit so small it seems only +partially developed and, like myself, have hesitated to taste it, not +being sure that it was a true blackberry and edible. It takes a good +many of these little berries to make a mouthful, but they are harmless. +They are called the <i>running swamp blackberry</i>. They ripen in August and +grow in sandy places as well as in the swamps. There are three leaflets, +seldom more, to the stem, which are blunt at the tip, smooth, shining, +and coarsely toothed. The flowers are small and white, and the stems +prickly.</p> + + +<h3><br />High-Bush Blackberry</h3> + +<p>Throughout the northern states as far west as Iowa, Kansas, and Missouri +and down to North Carolina, you may find the <i>high-bush blackberry</i>. Its +stems are sometimes ten feet high; they are furrowed and thorny and the +bush grows along country roads, by fences, and in the woods. The berries +are sweet, but quite seedy. They grow in long, loose clusters and ripen +in July.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[141]</a></span></p> + + +<h3><br />Mountain Blackberry</h3> + +<p>There is another variety called the <i>mountain blackberry</i>. It has a +spicy flavor, but the fruit is small and dry. The leaves are more +elongated toward the tip than those of the others and they are finely +toothed. The branches are reddish in color.</p> + + +<h3><br />Thornless Blackberry</h3> + +<p>The sweetest of all varieties is said to be the thornless blackberry. It +ripens later than the others and has no thorns. The leaves are long and +narrow.</p> + + +<h3><br />Eastern Wild Gooseberry</h3> + +<p>Among the mountains from Massachusetts to North Carolina, the eastern +wild gooseberry grows. It is said that its flavor is delicious. The +fruit is purplish in color and is free from all prickles. It grows on +slender stems and, like the cultivated gooseberry, is tipped with the +dry calyx. The leaves are small, rather round, and have three or five +lobes. The flowers are greenish and insignificant. The plant is three or +four feet high, with spreading branches and smooth stems.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="food" id="food"></a> +<img src="images/illus_p142.png" width="600" height="386" alt="Good food on the trail." title="Good food on the trail." /> +<span class="caption">Good food on the trail.</span> +</div> + + +<h3><br />Dwarf Blueberry</h3> + +<p>Perhaps the most satisfactory of all berries when one is really hungry +is the blueberry, of which there are several varieties. The <i>dwarf +blueberry</i> is probably the most common. It is the earliest of the +blueberries to ripen and grows in the thin, sandy, and rocky soil which +is spurned by most other plants. You will find it upon barren hillsides, +in rocky fields, and in dry pine woods. The berries <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">[142]</a></span>are round, blue, +about the size of peas, and are covered with bloom like the grape. They +grow in thick clusters at the end of the branch and are tipped with fine +calyx teeth. The seeds are so small as to be almost unnoticed and the +soft ripe berry will bruise easily.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[143]</a></span></p> + +<p>The flavor of all blueberries has a nutty quality which seems to give +the berry more substance as a food. The leaf is rather narrow and +pointed at each end; the under side is a lighter green than the upper +and both are glossy. In the fall the leaves turn red and drop easily. +The bush is low and the branches usually covered with small, white dots.</p> + + +<h3><br />Low Blueberry</h3> + +<p>Another variety is called the <i>low blueberry</i>. It is very much like the +dwarf blueberry, but the bush grows sometimes as high as four feet. It +is stiff and upstanding and prefers the edge of the woods and sheltered +roadsides to the dry open fields. The berries are blue with a grape-like +bloom and, like the first variety, grow in thick clusters at the end of +the branch. You can grab a good handful in passing, so many are there in +a bunch.</p> + + +<h3><br />High-Bush Blueberry</h3> + +<p>On the <i>high-bush blueberry</i> the color of the berries varies. Some +bushes bear a black, shiny berry, others a smooth, blue, and still +others blue with a bloom. The sizes differ also. The berries grow in +clusters, at times on branches almost bare of leaves; some are sweet, +others sour. The leaves are a pointed oval with the under side lighter +in color than the upper; in some cases the under side is hairy. The +flowers are pinkish and shaped somewhat like a cylinder. The bush grows +occasionally to the height of ten feet, and you will generally find it +in marshy <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">[144]</a></span>places. I know that it grows by the edge of Teedyuskung Lake +in Pike County, Pa., where our summer camp is located, but it is found +also in pasturelands.</p> + + +<h3><br />Dangleberry</h3> + +<p>Another variety is called the dangleberry. The berries grow on stems in +loose clusters; they are rather large, of a dark-blue color with a +bloom; they ripen late and are not very plentiful. The pale-green leaves +are large, white, and resinous underneath, and are oval in shape. The +flowers are greenish-pink and hang like bells on slender stems.</p> + + +<h3><br />Wintergreen. Checkerberry</h3> + +<p>Almost every one knows the little cherry-red <i>wintergreen berry</i> or +<i>checkerberry</i>, and almost every one likes its sweet aromatic flavor but +few would care to make a meal of it. The fruit is too dry for hearty +eating and the flavor too decided. The evergreen leaves are leathery in +texture and their flavor is stronger than that of the berry; they are +whitish underneath and dark, glossy green above. They are oval in shape +and have a few small teeth or none at all. The flowers are white, waxy, +and cup-shaped; they hang like bells from their short stems. The plant +grows close to the ground, generally in the woods and moist places. It +is found as far north as Maine and west to Michigan.</p> + +<p>Do not mistake the bunchberry for the wintergreen. It, too, grows low on +the ground, but the bunchberries are in close clusters at the top of the +small plant where the leaves radiate. The berries are bright scarlet, +round and smooth, and are <i>not</i> edible. Flower and leaf resemble those +of the dogwood-tree, to which family the bunchberry belongs.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">[145]</a></span></p> + + +<h3><br />Partridgeberry</h3> + +<p>Another ground berry is the partridgeberry. This may be eaten but is dry +and rather tasteless. It is a red berry and grows on a slender, trailing +vine. Its leaves are small and heart-shaped; some are veined with white. +They are evergreen. The flowers grow in pairs and are like four-pointed +stars at the ends of slender tubes. Inside they are creamy white, +outside a delicate pink. The partridgeberry likes pine forests and dry +woods.</p> + + +<h3><br />June-Berry. Shadbush</h3> + +<p>There are berries on trees as well as on bushes and vines, at least they +are called berries though not always resembling them.</p> + +<p>The June-berry is a tree from ten to thirty feet in height, while its +close relative, the shadbush, is a low tree and sometimes a shrub. The +fruit resembles the seed-vessels of the rose; it grows in clusters and +is graded in color from red to violet; it has a slight bloom and the +calyx shows at the summit. It ripens in June and is said to be sweet and +delicious in flavor. The oblong leaves are sharply toothed, rounded at +the base and pointed at the tip. The young leaves are hairy. The flowers +are white and grow in clusters.</p> + +<p>The shadbush grows in wet places and its fruit is smaller and on shorter +stems. It is also said to be more juicy. The leaves are rather woolly.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 310px;"><a name="fruit1" id="fruit1"></a> +<img src="images/illus_p147.png" width="310" height="400" alt="Fruits found principally in the south and the middle west." title="Fruits found principally in the south and the middle west." /> +<span class="caption">Fruits found principally in the south and the middle west.</span> +</div> + + +<h3><br />Red Mulberry</h3> + +<p>Although the finest <i>mulberry-trees</i> are said to be found along the +Mississippi and the lower Ohio Rivers, I have seen large, thrifty trees +in Connecticut and on Long Island. They grow from Massachusetts to +Florida and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">[146]</a></span>west to Nebraska. Birds are very fond of the mulberry. The +first rose-breasted grosbeaks I ever saw were in a great mulberry-tree +on a farm in the northern part of Connecticut. The berry is shaped much +like a blackberry; it is juicy and sweet, but lacks flavor. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">[147]</a></span>It grows on +a short stem and is about an inch in length. In July when the berry +ripens it is a dark purple.</p> + +<p>There is a decided variety in the shape of the leaves on one tree; some +have seven lobes, some none at all. The edges of most are scalloped, +though I have seen leaves with smooth edges.</p> + +<p>The <i>white mulberry</i> is seldom found growing wild. The fruit is like the +red mulberry but perfectly white.</p> + + +<h3><br />Sweet Viburnum. Nanny-Berry. Sheepberry</h3> + +<p>The fruit of the sweet viburnum, nanny-berry or sheepberry, is said to +be edible. It grows on a small tree, of the honeysuckle family, in the +woods and by the streams from Canada to Georgia and west as far as +Missouri. The tree has a rusty, scaly bark and broad, oval leaves, +pointed at the tip and finely toothed. The flower clusters are large +and, though white, they appear yellowish from the many yellow anthers at +the centre. When entirely ripe the fruit is a dark blue or black and is +covered with a bloom; before ripening it is crimson. The berry grows in +clusters on slender red stems. It is elongated and rather large. At its +summit is the calyx and stigma. The seed inside the berry is a stone +which is flattened, blunt-pointed, and grooved. The fruit ripens in +September and October.</p> + + +<h3><br />Large-Fruited Thorn</h3> + +<p>The thorns, large-fruited and scarlet, are edible. As a child I knew the +fruit as <i>haws</i> and was very fond of it.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">[148]</a></span> The large-fruited thorn is a +low tree with branches spreading out horizontally. You will often find +it in thickets. The bark is rough and the thorns on the branches are +long, sharp, and of a light-brown color. In flavor the fruit is sweet +and apple-like; the flesh is dry and mealy; it grows on hairy stems and +the seeds are hard, rounded, and grooved. The summit is tipped with the +calyx and it ripens in September. The leaves are thick, narrowed at the +base, and rounded at the ends, with veins underneath that are prominent +and often hairy.</p> + + +<h3><br />Black Haw. Stag-Bush</h3> + +<p>The fruit of the black haw, or stag-bush, is not edible until after +frost has touched it. It is oval, dark blue with bloom, and about half +an inch long. It grows in stiff clusters on short, branching stems. The +shrub, which is sometimes a small tree, is bushy and crooked, with stout +and spreading branches. It is found from Connecticut to Georgia and as +far west as the Indian Territory. It grows among the underbrush in +forests. The bark is scaly and of a reddish-brown color, the leaves are +dark green and smooth on the upper side, paler and sometimes covered +with matted hair on the under side, where the veins show prominently; +they are two or three inches long and generally oval in shape with no +teeth. The flowers are cream-white and grow in flat-topped clusters.</p> + + +<h3><br />Wild Plums. Canada Plum</h3> + +<p>There is a wild plum that is found in our New England States and in +Canada known as the Canada plum. The plant grows along fences, in +thickets, and by the side of streams. The plum is from one inch to one +and a half inches long and is red or orange in color. It has a tough +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">[149]</a></span>skin and a flat stone. The flavor is considered pleasant but the fruit +is generally used for preserving. The leaves have long, sharp points at +the ends and are rather heart-shaped at the base. The flowers, white in +bud, change to pink when opened. They grow in thin clusters.</p> + + +<h3><br />Beach Plum</h3> + +<p>Usually on sandy and stony beaches, though at times farther inland, you +may find the beach plum. It is a low shrub and grows in clumps. The +fruit is apt to be abundant and is sweet when quite ripe. This plum, +also, is used for preserving. The color of the fruit is from red to +red-purple, it has a bloom over it and grows on a slender stem. The thin +stone is rounded on one edge, sharp on the other, and generally has +pointed ends. The fruit ripens in August and September. The leaf is +oval, has a sharp-pointed tip, is rounded at the base, and has fine, +forward-pointed teeth. There are many white flowers which grow in +clusters along the branches.</p> + + +<h3><br />Wild Red Cherry</h3> + +<p>The wild red cherry is sour but edible; it is best used as preserves. +The tree is usually small yet sometimes reaches the height of thirty +feet. It is oftenest found in the woods of the north, but also grows +among the mountains as far south as Tennessee. The bark is a +reddish-brown and has rusty dots over it. The leaves are oblong, pointed +at the tips and rather blunt at the base. They are bright green and +glossy. The white flower is much like the cultivated cherry blossom but +smaller; it grows in clusters. The cherries are light red and about the +size of a pea.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">[150]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 261px;"><a name="fruit2" id="fruit2"></a> +<img src="images/illus_p151.png" width="261" height="400" alt="Fruits found principally in the north and the middle west." title="Fruits found principally in the north and the middle west." /> +<span class="caption">Fruits found principally in the north and the middle west.</span> +</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">[151]</a></span></p> + + +<h3><br />Sand-Cherry</h3> + +<p>Growing in the sand along our eastern coast as far south as New Jersey +and sometimes on the shores of the Great Lakes, the sand-cherry is +found. It is a low, trailing bush, but in some cases sends up erect +branches as high as four feet. The fruit is dark red—black when quite +ripe—and about half an inch long. It grows in small clusters or +solitary, and is said to be sweet and edible. The leaves, dark green on +the upper side, are lighter underneath; they are rather narrow, broadest +toward the end and tapering at the base. The edge is toothed almost to +the base. The flowers are white and thinly clustered.</p> + + +<h3><br />Persimmon</h3> + +<p>In the Southern, Western, and Middle States, some say as far north as +New York, grows the <i>persimmon</i>. Deliciously sweet and spicy when frost +has ripened it, very astringent until ripe. It is plentiful in Kentucky +and one of my earliest memories is of going to market with my mother in +the fall to buy persimmons. There I learned to avoid the fair, perfect +fruit, though to all appearances it was quite ripe, and to choose that +which looked bruised and broken.</p> + +<p>The persimmon is about the size of a plum, but is flattened at the +poles. It grows close to the branch and its calyx is large. The color is +yellow generally flushed with red. Some writers describe it as juicy, +but I would not call it that; the flesh is more like custard or soft +jelly.</p> + +<p>The tree usually varies in height from thirty to fifty feet, but in some +places is said to reach one hundred or more feet. The trunk is short and +the branches spread<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">[152]</a></span>ing. In the south it often forms a thicket in +uncultivated fields and along roadsides. The bark is dark brown or dark +gray, the surface is scaly and divided into plates. The leaves are +usually a narrow oval with smooth edges; when matured they are dark +green and glossy on the upper side, underneath pale and often downy. The +flower is a creamy-white or greenish-yellow.</p> + + +<h3><br />Papaw</h3> + +<p>The papaw is another fruit I knew well as a child. It is sometimes +called custard-apple because the flesh resembles soft custard. As I +write I can almost taste the, to me, sickish sweetness of the fruit and +feel the large, smooth, flat seeds in my mouth. In shape the papaw +somewhat resembles the banana, the texture of the skin is the same, but +the surface of the papaw is smoothly rounded and it is shorter and +thicker than the banana, being usually from three to five inches long. +It ripens in September and October. The tree is small, often a shrub, +and it grows wild no farther north than western New York.</p> + +<p>There are some cultivated papaw-trees on Long Island, but I do not think +they bear fruit. Certainly none that I have seen have ever fruited. You +will find the tree as far south as Florida and Texas, through the Middle +States and west to Michigan and Kansas. It flourishes in the bottom +lands of the Mississippi Valley and seeks the shade of the forests. The +bark is dark brown with gray blotches; the leaves are large, being from +two to twelve inches long and four inches wide. They are oval, pointed +at the tip and narrowed at the base. When matured they are smooth, dark +green on the upper side and paler beneath. At first the flower is as +green as the leaves, but finally turns a deep red-purple. It grows close +to the branch and is solitary.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">[153]</a></span></p> + + +<h3><br />May-Apple</h3> + +<p>One of the most delicious wild fruits we have is the <i>May-apple</i> or +<i>mandrake</i>. It is finely flavored, sweet and juicy, but being a laxative +one must eat of it sparingly. It is most common in the Middle States and +reaches perfection in Ohio.</p> + +<p>The plant is from twelve to eighteen inches high, and the large +umbrella-like leaves are lifted on smooth, straight stems. The fruit +usually grows from the fork of two leaves. It is yellow, lemon-shaped, +and about the size of a plum. The flesh is like that of the plum and +there are numerous seeds in fleshy seed coverings. It ripens in July and +is quite soft when fully ripe. I have sometimes gathered the firm, +yellow May-apples, put them away in a cool, dark, dry place to ripen, +and in taking them out have found them in prime condition. They will +ripen in this way without spoiling if not allowed to touch one another.</p> + +<p>The leaves frequently measure a foot in diameter; they have from five to +nine lobes, which are notched and pointed at the tips; the upper side is +darker than the lower. While the fruit of the May-apple is edible, the +leaves and root are poisonous, not to the touch but to the taste. The +flower is a clear white with from eight to twelve rounding petals and it +generally measures about one and a half inches across. The petals expand +in the morning, become erect in the afternoon, and close at night. We +are told that the May-apple is a roadside plant, but I have found it +only in the woods.</p> + + +<h3><br />Wild Grapes</h3> + +<p>There are several varieties of wild grapes, all, I think, edible but not +all pleasant to the taste. The fox-grape is <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">[154]</a></span>sweet, but has a musky +flavor and odor, a thick skin, and a tough pulp. The fruit ripens in +September but few care to eat it. The vine grows luxuriantly and is very +common. The summer grape is another tough-skinned grape. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">[155]</a></span>It is not musky +but is generally astringent. The vine resembles the fox-grape in growth, +being strong and vigorous. The fruit of the blue grape is sour and hangs +in long, heavy clusters. It is usually found along water-ways.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="fruit3" id="fruit3"></a> +<img src="images/illus_p155.png" width="600" height="439" alt="Fruits common to most of the States." title="Fruits common to most of the States." /> +<span class="caption">Fruits common to most of the States.</span> +</div> + + +<h3><br />Frost-Grape or Chicken-Grape</h3> + +<p>If you try to eat the <i>frost-grapes</i> before frost you will find them +decidedly sour, but after a good frost they are really fine. They have a +snappy, spicy flavor all their own, and one eats them, like currants, +skin and all. They are small, round, and black with a slight bloom. The +clusters are well-filled and hang loosely. The vine grows luxuriantly, +branching from a large trunk, and is found in wet places and on the +banks of streams, though it does well in the open and in drier soil. It +flourishes in New England and down to Illinois and westward to Nebraska. +The leaves usually suggest three lobes but are mostly undivided. They +are coarsely toothed and the under side bears occasional hairs along the +veins.</p> + + +<h3><br />Wild Nuts. Black Walnuts</h3> + +<p>Of all the wild-growing foods, nuts are, perhaps, the most nutritious. +The <i>black walnut</i>, not plentiful in the Atlantic States but abundant in +the Middle States and in the Mississippi Valley, has a rich, wild +flavor, and a deep-brown stain for the hands that tear it from its +ball-like covering of tough, pimply green which forms the outer husk. +The nut is sometimes oblong, sometimes almost round, with a deeply +grooved, hard, brown shell.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">[156]</a></span> It grows in pairs or solitary. The tree is +large, often reaching the height of one hundred feet, and its trunk is +from four to six feet in diameter. The bark is dark brown with deep +vertical grooves and its surface is broken with thick scales. The leaves +are compound, growing on a middle stem which is sometimes two feet long. +Each leaflet is a narrow oval, sharply pointed at the end, and usually +about three inches long. The nuts require frost to ripen them.</p> + + +<h3><br />Butternut</h3> + +<p>While the <i>butternut-tree</i> is much like the walnut in general +appearance, it does not grow as large. The nuts are different in shape +and in flavor, and the leaflets are hairy instead of smooth. The +butternut does not grow as far north as the walnut, but is often found +side by side with the walnut in the Middle States. The green outer +covering of the nut is oblong and sticky on the surface, and, like the +walnut, will stain the hands. The shell is hard, brown, oblong, and +pointed at one end. It is deeply grooved. The flavor is rich but the nut +being oily soon becomes rancid.</p> +<div><a name="nut1" id="nut1"></a></div> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 296px;"> +<img src="images/illus_p159.png" width="296" height="400" alt="Hickory nuts, sweet and bitter." title="Hickory nuts, sweet and bitter." /> +<span class="caption">Hickory nuts, sweet and bitter.</span> +</div> +<div class='center'><br /><big><b>Hickory-Nuts</b></big><br /></div> + +<p>In gathering hickory-nuts you must be able to distinguish between the +edible variety and others that are fair on the outside but bitter +within. There are nine varieties of hickory-nut trees, and in general +appearance they are alike. All have compound leaves and the leaflets are +larger and fewer to the stem than the walnut, usually numbering from +five to eleven. The nuts grow in small clusters as a rule, often in +pairs, and the outer husk separates when ripe into four pieces, allowing +the nut to drop out clean and dry. The full-grown tree is of good size +and is found almost everywhere in the United States.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">[157]</a></span></p> + + +<div class='center'><br /><big><b>Shellbark. Shagbark</b></big><br /></div> + +<p>The <i>shellbark</i> or shagbark hickory-nut is one of the best. The flavor, +as every one knows, is sweet and pleasant. It is the bark of the tree +that gives it the name of shagbark, for it separates into long, ragged +strips several inches wide which generally hold to the trunk at the +middle and give it an unkempt, shaggy appearance.</p> + + +<div class='center'><br /><big><b>Mockernut</b></big><br /></div> + +<p>The <i>mockernut</i> is the hickory-nut with a dark, brownish-colored shell, +hard and thick and not easily cracked. It is called the mockernut +because while the nut is large, usually larger than the shellbark, the +kernel is very small and difficult to take out of the thick shell.</p> + +<div><a name="nut2" id="nut2"></a></div> +<div class="figright" style="width: 268px;"> +<img src="images/illus_p161.png" width="268" height="400" alt="Nuts with soft shells. Beechnut and chestnut." title="Nuts with soft shells. Beechnut and chestnut." /> +<span class="caption">Nuts with soft shells. Beechnut and chestnut.</span> +</div> +<div class='center'><br /><big><b>Pignut</b></big><br /></div> + +<p>I will italicize the <i>pignut</i> because, though I have never eaten it, I +once tried to, and the first taste was all-sufficient. Some writers tell +us that the flavor is sweet or slightly bitter. It was the decidedly +bitter kind that I found lying temptingly clean and white under the +tree. The thin outer husk of the pignut is not much larger than the nut. +It is broader at the top than at the stem, where it narrows almost to a +point. The husk does not open as freely as that of the other +hickory-nuts. It is inclined to cling to the nut; in some cases it only +partially opens and drops with the nut.</p> + + + +<div class='center'><br /><big><b>Beechnut</b></big><br /></div> + +<p>One of the sweetest and most delicately flavored of our native nuts is +the little, triangular <i>beechnut</i>. The tree <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">[158]</a></span>is common and widely +distributed, but few people know anything about the nut. In Kentucky the +nuts used to be plentiful, but I have seen none in New York. It is said +that a beech-tree must be fully forty years old before it will bear +fruit, and that may be the reason the nuts are not oftener found.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">[159]</a></span></p> + +<p>The soft-shelled nut is very small, no larger than the tip of your +little finger. The color is pale brown, and it is three-sided with sharp +angles. It is contained in a small, prickly husk and grows both solitary +or in clusters of two or three. When touched by frost the burr opens and +allows the nut to fall out while the burr remains on the tree.</p> + +<p>The bark of the beech-tree is ashy gray, and the leaf is oblong, pointed +at the tip, toothed on the edge, and strongly veined.</p> + + +<div class='center'><br /><big><b>Chestnut</b></big><br /></div> + +<p>I find that the <i>chestnut-tree</i> is not as well known as its fruit, which +is sold from stands on the street corners of most American cities. A +round, green prickly burr is the husk of the nut, and this is lined +inside with soft, white, velvety down. Nestled closely in this soft bed +lie several dark-brown nuts with soft, polished shells. The first frost +opens the burrs, and the sweet nuts fall to the ground.</p> + +<p>You may recognize the tree in midsummer by its long-tasselled, +cream-white blossoms, which hang in profusion from the ends of the +branches. The chestnut is the only forest-tree that blossoms at that +time, so you cannot mistake it. Later you will know it by the prickly +green burrs, which develop quickly. The tree is large and common to most +States. The leaves are from six to eight inches long; they are coarsely +toothed at the edges, sharply pointed at the end, and are prominently +veined <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">[160]</a></span>on the under side. They grow mostly in tufts drooping from a +common centre.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">[161]</a></span></p> + + + + +<h3><br />Bark and Roots of Trees</h3> + + +<h3><br /><b>Slippery-Elm</b></h3> + +<p>The inner bark and the root of the <i>slippery-elm</i> are not only pleasant +to the taste but are said to be nutritious. They have a glutinous +quality that gives the tree its name, and the flavor is nutty and +substantial.</p> + +<p>This variety of elm is common and is found from the Saint Lawrence River +to Florida. It grows to a height of sixty or seventy feet, with +spreading branches which flatten at the top. The outline of the tree is +much like that of a champagne-glass, wide at the top and narrow at the +stem. The slippery-elm resembles the white elm, but there are +differences by which you can know it. If you stroke the leaf of a white +elm you will find that it is rough one way but smooth the other; stroke +the leaf of the slippery-elm, and it will be rough <i>both</i> ways. The buds +of the white elm are smooth, those of the slippery-elm are <i>hairy</i>. Then +you cannot mistake the inner bark of the slippery-elm, which is +fragrant, thick, and gummy. The outer bark is dark brown, with shallow +ridges and large, loose plates. The leaves are oblong, rounded at the +base, and are coarsely toothed. They are prominently veined and are dark +green, paler on the under side.</p> + + +<h3><br />Sassafras</h3> + +<p>The <i>sassafras</i> grows wild from Massachusetts to Florida, and west +through the Mississippi Valley. It is generally a small tree, from +thirty to fifty feet high, and is often found growing in dense thickets +in uncultivated fields. The edible bark is dark red-brown. It is thick +but not <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">[162]</a></span>hard and is deeply ridged and scaled. The cracked bark is one +of the characteristics of the tree; it begins to split when the tree is +about three years old. The strong aromatic flavor is held by the bark, +the wood, the roots, the stems, and the leaves. I have never tasted the +fruit, which is berry-like, dark blue, and glossy, and is held by a +thick, scarlet calyx; but the birds are fond of it.</p> + +<p>Sassafras tea was at one time considered the best of spring medicines +for purifying the blood, and the bark was brought to market cut in short +lengths and tied together in bunches.</p> + +<p>The leaves are varied; on one twig there will sometimes be three +differently shaped leaves. Some will be oval, some with three lobes, and +some mitten-shaped; that is, an oval leaf with a side lobe like the +thumb of a mitten.</p> + + +<h3><br />Salads. Watercress</h3> + +<p>There is no more refreshing salad than the <i>watercress</i> gathered fresh +from a cool, running brook. It is a common plant, found almost anywhere +in streams and brooks. Its smooth green or brownish leaves lie on the +top of the water; they are compound, with from three to nine small +rounded leaflets. The flavor is peppery and pungent. Watercress +sandwiches are good. The white flowers are small and insignificant and +grow in a small cluster at the end of the stem.</p> + + +<h3><br />Dandelion</h3> + +<p>A salad of tender, young <i>dandelion</i> leaves is not to be despised, and +the plant grows everywhere. Only the very young leaves, that come up +almost white in the spring, are good. The flavor is slightly bitter with +the wholesome bitterness one likes in the spring of the year. These +young leaves are also good when cooked like spinach.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">[163]</a></span> The plant is so +common it does not really call for a description, and if you know it you +can skip the following:</p> + +<p>Growing low on the ground, sometimes with leaves lying flat on the +surface, the dandelion sends up a hollow, leafless stem crowned with a +bright-yellow, many-petalled flower about the size of a silver +fifty-cent piece. The seed head is a round ball of white down. The +leaves are deeply notched, much like thistle leaves, but they have no +prickles.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">[164]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>CHAPTER VIII</h2> + +<h3>LITTLE FOES OF THE TRAILER</h3> + +<div class='center'><b>Poisonous Insects, Reptiles, and Plants</b></div> + + +<h3><br />Insects</h3> + + +<p>My first experience with wood-ticks, jiggers, and Jersey mosquitoes was +during the summer we spent at Bayville, near Toms River, N. J. In many +ways Bayville, with its sand, its pines, its beautiful wood roads, and +rare wild flowers, is an interesting and attractive place. The salty air +is fine when the thermometer is self-respecting and keeps the mercury +below 90° in the shade, but the oak underbrush harbors wood-ticks, the +blackberry bushes cover you with jiggers, the woods are full of +deer-flies, and the vicious mosquito, whose name is Legion, is +everywhere where he is not barred out.</p> + + +<h3><br />Wood-Ticks</h3> + +<p>I had been told of the ticks that infest the forests of the South, had +heard blood-curdling stories of how they sometimes bury themselves, +entire, in the flesh of animals and men and have to be cut out, and my +horror of them was great. In reality I found them unpleasant enough but, +as far as we were concerned, comparatively harmless.</p> + +<p>The wood-tick is a small, rather disgusting-looking creature which, in +appearance and size, resembles the common bedbug. It fastens itself upon +you without your knowledge and you do not feel it even when it begins +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">[165]</a></span>to suck your blood, but something generally impels you to pass your +hand over the back of your neck, or cheek, where the thing is clinging, +and, feeling the lump, you pull it off and no great harm done. The tick +is supposed always to bury its head in the flesh, and it is said that if +the head is left in when the bug is pulled off an ugly sore will be the +result. We had no experience of that kind, however, nor, in our hurry to +get rid of it, did we stop to remove the bug scientifically by dropping +oil on it, as Kephart advises, but just naturally and simply, also +vigorously, we grasped it between thumb and forefinger and hastily +plucked it off. The effect of the bite was no worse on any of our party +than that of the Jersey mosquito.</p> + +<p>Often your friends will see a tick on you and tell you of it even while +they have several, all unknown to themselves, decorating their own +countenance. The name by which science knows this unlovely bug is +<i>Ixodes leech</i>.</p> + + +<h3><br />Jigger. Redbug. Mite</h3> + +<p>The tiny mite called by the natives jigger and redbug is more annoying +than the wood-tick, one reason being that there are so many more of him. +He really does penetrate the skin, and his wanderings under the surface +give one the feeling of an itching rash which covers the body. You won't +see the jigger—he is too small, but if you invade his domain you will +certainly feel him.</p> + + +<h3><br />Deer-Fly</h3> + +<p>The deer-fly will bite and bite hard enough to hurt. It will drive its +sharp mandibles into your skin with such force as to take out a bit of +the flesh, sometimes causing the blood to flow, but the bite does not +seem particularly poisonous, though you feel it at the time and it +generally <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">[166]</a></span>raises a lump on the flesh. The deer-fly belongs to the +family of gadflies. It is larger than a house-fly and its wings stand +out at right angles to its body. It will not trouble you much except in +the woods.</p> + + +<h3><br />Black-Fly</h3> + +<p>The Adirondack and North Woods region is not only the resort of hunters, +campers, and seekers after health and pleasure, but it is also the haunt +of the maddening black-fly. From early spring until the middle of July +or first of August the black-fly holds the territory; then it evacuates +and is seen no more until next season, when it begins a new campaign.</p> + +<p>Under the name of buffalo-fly the black-fly is found in the west, where, +on the prairies, it has been known to wage war on horses until death +ensued—death of the horses, not of the fly. It is a small fly about +one-sixth of an inch long, thick-bodied, and black. It is said to have +broad silvery circles on its legs, but no one ever stops to look at +these. Its proboscis is developed to draw blood freely, and it is always +in working order.</p> + +<p>The only virtue the black-fly seems to have is its habit of quitting +operations at sundown and leaving to other tormenters the task of +keeping you awake at night. When the black-fly bites you will know it, +and it will leave its mark, when it does leave, which must generally be +by your help, for it holds on with commendable persistence. If you would +learn more of this charming insect, look for <i>Simulium molestum</i> in a +book which treats the subject scientifically.</p> + + +<h3><br />No-see-um. Punky. Midge</h3> + +<p>There is another pest of the North Woods which the guides call the +no-see-um. It is a very diminutive midge <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">[167]</a></span>resembling the mosquito in +form and viciousness, but so small as to be almost invisible. Night and +day are the same to the no-see-um; its warfare is continuous and its +bite very annoying, but it disappears with the black-fly in July or +August. By September the mountains and woods are swept clear of all +these troublesome things, except at times and in some places the +ever-hungry mosquito, which will linger on for a last bite in his summer +feast.</p> + +<p>The only way to relieve the irritation caused by the bites of these +pests, including the mosquito, is to bathe the affected parts with +camphor, alcohol, or diluted ammonia. When there are but one or two +bites they may be touched with strong ammonia, but it will not do to use +this too freely, as it will burn the skin.</p> + + +<h3><br />Gnats</h3> + +<p>In the mountains of Pennsylvania the most troublesome insects I found +were the tiny gnats that persist in flying into one's eyes in a very +exasperating fashion. They swarm in a cloud in front of your face as you +walk and make constant dashes at your eyes, although to reach their goal +brings instant death.</p> + +<p>It is not much trouble to get one of these gnats out of your eye when it +once gets in. All that is necessary is to take the eyelashes of the +upper eyelid between your thumb and first finger, and draw the upper +eyelid down <i>over</i> the under eyelid. The under eyelashes sweep the upper +lid clear, and the rush of tears that comes to the eye washes the insect +out.</p> + + +<h3><br />Bees, Wasps, and Yellow-Jackets</h3> + +<p>While honey-bees and wasps can make themselves most disagreeable when +disturbed, you can usually keep <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">[168]</a></span>away from beehives and bee-trees as +well as from the great gray, papery nests of the wasp; but the hornets +or yellow-jackets have an uncomfortable habit of building in low bushes +and on the ground where you may literally put your foot in a hornets' +nest.</p> + +<p>They are hot-tempered little people, these same hornets, as I have +reason to know. Twice I have been punished by them, and both times it +was my head they attacked. Once I found them, or they found me, in a +cherry-tree; and the second time we met was when I stepped in their nest +hidden on the ground. Their sting is like a hot wire pressed into the +flesh. When angered they will chase you and swarm around your head, +stinging whenever they can; but they may be beaten off if some friendly +hand will wield a towel or anything else that comes handy.</p> + +<p>If the stings of any of these stinging insects are left in the wounds +they should be taken out with a <i>clean</i> needle or <i>clean</i> knife-blade. +In any case mix some mud into a paste and plaster it on the parts that +have been stung. If you are in camp and have with you a can of +antiphlogistine use that instead of the mud; it is at least more sightly +and is equally efficient in reducing inflammation.</p> + +<p>Various things have been devised as protection against insect torments.</p> + +<p>One is a veil of net to be worn over the hat. You will find this +described in Chapter IV under the heading of Personal Outfits.</p> + + +<h3><br />Dopes</h3> + +<p>Then there are dopes to be rubbed over the face, neck, and hands. The +three said to be the best are Nessmuk's Dope, Breck's Dope, and H. P. +Wells's Bug-Juice. There is also a Rexall preparation which, I am told, +is good while it stays on, but will wash off with perspiration.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">[169]</a></span></p> + + +<h3><br />Nessmuk's Dope</h3> + +<p>In giving the recipe for his dope, Nessmuk says that it produces a glaze +over the skin and that in preventing insect bites he has never known it +to fail. This is the dope:</p> + + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="0" summary="Nessmuk's Dope"> +<tr><td align='left'>Pine tar</td><td align='left'>3 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Castor oil</td><td align='left'>2 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Oil of pennyroyal </td><td align='left'>1 oz.</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Simmer all together over a slow fire, and bottle.</p> + +<p>This is sufficient for four persons for two weeks. </p></div> + + +<h3><br />Breck's Dope</h3> + + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="0" summary="Breck's Dope"> +<tr><td align='left'>Pine tar</td><td align='left'>3 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Olive (or castor oil)</td><td align='left'>2 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Oil of pennyroyal</td><td align='left'>1 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Citronella</td><td align='left'>1 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Creosote</td><td align='left'>1 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Camphor (pulverized)</td><td align='left'>1 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Large tube of carbolated vaseline.</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Heat the tar and oil, and add the other +ingredients; simmer over slow fire until well +mixed. The tar may be omitted if disliked or for +ladies' use. </p></div> + +<p>Breck tells us that his dope was planned to be a counter-irritant after +being bitten as well as a preventer of bites.</p> + + +<h3><br />H. P. Wells's Bug-Juice</h3> + + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="0" summary="Well's Bug-Juice"> +<tr><td align='left'>Olive oil</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>½</td><td align='left'>pt.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Creosote</td><td align='left'>1</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Pennyroyal </td><td align='left'>1</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Camphor</td><td align='left'>1</td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>oz.</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Dissolve camphor in alcohol and mix. </p></div> + +<p>Any dope must be well rubbed in on face, neck, ears, and <i>behind ears</i>, +hands (on the backs), wrists, and arms; but be very careful not to get +it <i>in your eyes</i>.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">[170]</a></span></p> + + +<h3><br />Smudges</h3> + +<p>Smudges are said to afford relief in camp, but my own experience has +been that the insects can stand them better than I. A smudge is made by +burning things that make little flame and much smoke. Dead leaves, not +too dry, will make a fairly good smudge, but a better way is to burn +damp cedar bark, or branches, on piles of hot coals taken from the +camp-fire and kept alive at different sides of the camp.</p> + +<p>The accounts of extreme suffering caused by insect bites come from +unusually sensitive people. All people are not affected alike. Two +persons from one camp will tell entirely different stories of their +experience with insects. The best way to encounter these, as all other +annoyances, is to protect yourself as well as you can and then, without +whimpering, make the best of the situation. All the pests described will +not fall upon you at once, and, taken singly or even doubly, you will +manage to survive the ordeal. If the pleasure of the trail did not +over-balance the pain there would be fewer campers to relate their +troubles.</p> + + +<h3><br />Snakes</h3> + +<p>The bite of a poisonous snake is by all means to be avoided, and the +point is: you almost always can avoid it. With all the snakes in the +United States, Doctor William T. Hornaday, director of the Zoological +Park of New York City, tells us that out of seventy-five million people +not more than two die each year of snake-bites.</p> + +<p>Snakes are not man-hunters; they will not track you down; they much +prefer to keep out of your way. What you have to do is to keep out of +theirs. In a region where poisonous snakes abound it is well to wear +khaki leggins <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">[171]</a></span>as a protection in case you inadvertently step too near +and anger the creatures, for in such cases they sometimes strike before +you have time to beat a retreat. According to Doctor Hornaday, the +poisonous snakes of North America are:</p> + + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Poisonous Snakes"> +<tr><td align='left'>The rattlesnake,</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Water-moccasin,</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Copperhead,</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Sonora coral-snake,</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Harlequin snake.</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<div><a name="snakes" id="snakes"></a></div> +<div class="figright" style="width: 271px;"> +<img src="images/illus_p173.png" width="271" height="400" alt="Poisonous and non-poisonous snakes." title="Poisonous and non-poisonous snakes." /> +<span class="caption">Poisonous and non-poisonous snakes.</span> +</div> +<div class='center'><br /><big><b>Rattlesnakes</b></big><br /></div> + + +<p>The rattlesnake appears to vary in color and markings in the different +localities where it is found, and there are fourteen or fifteen +varieties, but all carry the rattles, shake them warningly, and coil +before they strike. The rattlesnake does not want to fight and if you +keep at a safe distance it will glide off in another direction, but it +is safest not to venture within striking distance, which is said to be +two-thirds the length of the snake, even if the snake has not coiled, +for it moves quickly and strikes like a flash.</p> + +<p>The rattles are at the extreme end of the tail and are composed of horny +joints. The sound of the rattle is much like the humming of a locust +(cicada). Rattlesnakes are often found sunning themselves on large +rocks, and stone-quarries are the chosen winter quarters where whole +colonies assemble. They are also found, during the summer, among +underbrush and in stubble-fields, where they probably go to hunt +field-mice and other small mammals.</p> + + + + +<div class='center'><br /><big><b>Banded Rattlesnake</b></big><br /></div> + +<p>The mountains of Pennsylvania are a favorite resort of the rattlesnake, +but, though I have passed many sum<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">[172]</a></span>mers in Pike County, famous for its +snakes, the only live one I ever saw in that locality was in a box at +Rowland station. The men of our party occasionally killed one and +brought it to camp as a trophy, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">[173]</a></span>but one of our weekend guests spent most +of his time hunting the rattler that he might take its skin back to the +city, yet without success.</p> + +<p>It is the banded rattlesnake that is usually found in Pennsylvania. The +color is yellowish and it is marked with irregular, wide bands of dark +brown. Sometimes the snake is almost black, and it is thought that it +turns dark with age.</p> + + +<div class='center'><br /><big><b>Diamond Rattlesnake</b></big><br /></div> + +<p>The rattlesnake marked in diamond patterns of gold outline on brown is +of the south and is oftenest found in Florida. This is a very large +snake, and closely allied to it is the Texas rattlesnake, which is the +same in markings and color, but paler, as if faded out.</p> + + +<div class='center'><br /><big><b>Massasauga</b></big><br /></div> + +<p>The massasauga is the rattlesnake occasionally found in the swamps from +western New York to Nebraska, but it is rare. Its color is light brown +with patches of dark brown its entire length.</p> + + +<div class='center'><br /><big><b>Copperhead</b></big><br /></div> + +<p>The copperhead is not a rattler, though its vibrating tail amid dry +leaves will sometimes hum like one. (This is also true of the +blacksnake.) Its bite is very poisonous. It is found amid rocks and in +the woods, and is at home from New England and the Atlantic coast west +to Indiana and south to Texas. This snake is seldom more than three +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">[174]</a></span>feet long. Its color is light reddish-brown with bands of rich chestnut +which are narrow on the back and wide at the sides. The underpart is +whitish with dark spots on the abdomen. The head is generally coppery in +color but not always. In Texas the colors of the copperhead are +stronger, the bands and head are decidedly reddish, and the bands have +narrow white borders.</p> + + +<h3><br />Harlequin Snake and Coral-Snake</h3> + +<p>The harlequin snake and the coral-snake are so similar in color and in +habits, one description for both will answer our purpose. They are +southern snakes, beginning in southern Indiana and extending south. They +are quite poisonous, but of such retiring habits as hardly to be classed +as dangerous. Most of their time is spent hidden under the sand and in +the ground, but when they do come out their colors are so brilliant as +not to be mistaken. On the harlequin snake the colors are bright +coral-red, yellow, and black, which alternate in stripes that encircle +the body. Its head is always banded with a broad yellow stripe. The +coral-snake is much the same in color, and only a close observer would +notice the difference. The coral-snake is also found in Arizona.</p> + + +<h3><br />Water-Moccasin, Cottonmouth</h3> + +<p>The water-moccasin is ugly, and ugly all the way through. Its deadly +viciousness is not redeemed by any outward beauty. Its average length is +three and a half feet, though it is occasionally longer. Its unlovely +body is thick and the color of greenish mud; the sides are paler and +have wide, blackish bands. There are dark bands from the eyes to the +mouth and above them there are pale streaks. The top of the head is very +dark. The <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">[175]</a></span>abdomen is yellow with splashes of brown or black. Heavy +shields overhang the eyes and give a sinister expression to their angry +glare. When suddenly approached the moccasin opens wide its white-lined +mouth, and one then understands why it is called cottonmouth.</p> + +<p>This snake does not coil before its strikes, but vibrates its tail +slowly and watches its prey with mouth open. The moccasin is decidedly a +southern snake, and girls of the south know that its home is along the +edges of bayous and in the swamps. It is frequently seen with its head +and a small part of its body out of water while the rest is submerged, +but at times it will be found on a water-soaked log or on underbrush and +low boughs of trees that overhang the water. The bite is very poisonous.</p> + + +<h3><br />Other Snakes</h3> + +<p>There are many other snakes in the United States, but they are not +venomous. Here is one thing to remember: you need never fear a snake +found in this country which has <i>lengthwise stripes</i>, that is, stripes +running from head to tail. Daniel C. Beard tells me that he has learned +this from observation, and Raymond L. Ditmars, curator of reptiles in +the New York Zoological Park, agrees with him.</p> + +<p>While the lengthwise-striped snakes are harmless, others not striped in +this way are harmless, too. The blacksnake, though he looks an ugly +customer and, when cornered, will sometimes show fight, is not venomous +and his bite is not deep. It is, therefore, wanton cruelty to kill every +snake that crosses your path simply because it happens to be a snake. +Kephart, in his book of "Camping and Woodcraft," says in regard to +identifying the poisonous snake:</p> + +<p>"The rattlesnake, copperhead, and cottonmouth are easily distinguished +from all other snakes, as all three of them bear a peculiar mark, or +rather a pair of marks, that <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">[176]</a></span>no other animal possesses. This mark is +the <i>pit</i>, which is a deep cavity on each side of the face between the +nostrils and the eye, sinking into the upper jaw-bone."</p> + +<p>If, when one has been bitten and the snake killed, an examination is +made of its head, it can be ascertained immediately whether the snake +was venomous, and in this way unnecessary fright may be avoided.</p> + + +<h3><br />Beaded Lizard, Gila Monster</h3> + +<p>The only other venomous reptile found in the United States is the beaded +lizard, called Gila monster (pronounced heela). Unless you visit the +desert regions of Arizona and New Mexico, you will not be apt to run +across this most interesting though poisonous reptile.</p> + +<p>The Gila monster looks very much like a unique piece of Indian beadwork, +with its fat body and stubby legs covered with bright-colored, bead-like +tubercles, which form almost a Navajo pattern. Its length is about +nineteen inches, and its beads are colored salmon, flesh-pink, white or +yellow, and black. Though it has the appearance of being stuffed with +cotton, it is really formidable and very much alive. Its jaws are +strong; when it bites it holds on like a bulldog, and there is no way to +force it to open its mouth except to pry the powerful jaws apart. While +otherwise slow of movement, it will turn quickly from side to side, +snapping viciously. The inside of the Gila's mouth is black, and when +angry it opens it wide and hisses.</p> + + +<h3><br />Treatment for Snake-Bites</h3> + +<p>If the unlikely should chance to happen and one of your party is bitten +by a poisonous snake, first aid should be given <i>immediately</i>, and if a +physician is within reach he <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">[177]</a></span>should be summoned as quickly as possible. +Much depends, however, upon what is done first. Any one can administer +the following treatment, and it should be done without flinching, for it +may mean the saving of a life:</p> + +<p>(1) As soon as the person is bitten twist a tourniquet very tightly +above the wound, that is, between the wound and the heart, to keep the +poison as far as possible from entering the entire system.</p> + +<p>(2) Slash the wound or stab it with a <i>clean</i> knife-blade and force it +to bleed copiously. If there is no break in the skin or membrane of your +mouth or lips and no cavity in any of your teeth, suck the wound to draw +out the poison.</p> + +<p>(3) Give a stimulant in small doses at frequent intervals to stimulate +the heart and lungs and strengthen the nerves, but avoid overdoing this, +for the result will be harmful.</p> + +<p>(4) If you have with you an antivenomous serum, inject it as directed by +the formula that accompanies it.</p> + +<p>Tie a loose bandage around the affected member, a handkerchief, neck +scarf, or even a rope for a tourniquet, to check circulation, as +described in Chapter XII, on Accidents. Every little while loosen the +tourniquet, then tighten it again, for it will not do to stop the +circulation entirely.</p> + +<p>All authorities do not advise sucking the wound, but it is generally +done, for with a perfectly sound and healthy mouth there is no danger, +as the poison enters the system only by contact with the blood.</p> + +<p>Some writers advocate cauterizing the wound with a hot iron; but, +whatever is done, do quickly, and <i>do not be afraid</i>. Fear is contagious +and exceedingly harmful to the patient. Remember that a snake-bite is +seldom fatal, and that a swollen arm or leg does not mean that the case +is hopeless.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">[178]</a></span></p> + + +<h3><br />Poisonous Plants</h3> + +<p>There are two kinds of poisonous plants: those that are poison to the +touch and those that are harmless unless taken inwardly. Both may be +avoided when you learn to identify them.</p> + +<div><a name="poison_plant1" id="poison_plant1"></a></div> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 243px;"> +<img src="images/illus_p181.png" width="243" height="400" alt="Plants poison to the touch." title="Plants poison to the touch." /> +<span class="caption">Plants poison to the touch.</span> +</div> +<div class='center'><br /><big><b>Poison-Ivy</b></big><br /></div> + + +<p>We are apt to think that every one knows the common poison-ivy, but that +some people are not familiar with it was shown when one beautiful autumn +day a young woman passed along our village street carrying a handful of +the sprays of the vine, gathered probably because of their beautiful +coloring. Noticing that she was a stranger, no doubt from the city, and +realizing the danger she was running of poisoning herself or some one +else, we hurriedly caught up with her and gave first aid to the ignorant +in a few forceful remarks. The result was that, without a word, the +young woman simply opened her hand, dropped her vines on the walk, and +hurried off as if to escape a pestilence. We were left to close the +incident by kicking the stuff into the street that some other equally +uninformed person might not be tempted to pick it up.</p> + +<p>If you do not know the poison-ivy, remember this: It is the +<i>three-leaved ivy</i>. Its leaves always grow in triplets as shown in +illustration. The leaves are smooth, but not glossy; they have no teeth +but are occasionally notched. Sometimes the plant is bushy, standing a +foot or two high, again it is trailing or climbing. It loves fence +corners and big rocks to clamber over; it will also choose large trees +for support, climbing up to their tops. The flowers are whitish and the +fruit is a pretty, green-gray berry, round and smooth, which grows in +scant clusters.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">[179]</a></span></p> + +<p>Poison-ivy is found through the country from Maine to Texas and west to +South Dakota, Utah, and Arkansas.</p> + +<p>Some people are immune to ivy poison and, happily, I belong to the +fortunate ones. Many persons are poisoned by it, however, and it may be +that fear makes them more susceptible. On some the painful, burning +eruption is difficult to cure.</p> + + +<div class='center'><br /><big><b>Poison-Oak</b></big><br /></div> + +<p>The poison-oak closely resembles the poison-ivy, and is sometimes called +by that name, but its leaves are differently shaped, being oval in +outline with a few coarse, blunt teeth. They are also thicker and +smaller than the ivy leaf. The poison-oak is plentiful in cool uplands +and in ravines, and is general throughout the Pacific coast from Lower +California and Arizona to British America.</p> + + +<div class='center'><br /><big><b>Poison-Sumach, or Swamp-Sumach</b></big><br /></div> + +<p>Another member of the same family is the poison-sumach. They are all +three equally poisonous and act by contact. The poison, or swamp, sumach +is a high, branching shrub closely resembling the harmless species which +grow on high, dry ground. The poison variety chooses low, wet places. +The leaves of the poison-sumach are compound, with from seven to +thirteen leaflets growing from one stem, as the leaves of the +walnut-tree grow; the stalks are often of a purplish color. The leaflets +are oval in shape and are pointed at the tip. The surface is smooth and +green on both sides and they have no teeth. The autumn coloring is very +brilliant. The flowers are whitish-green and grow in loose clusters from +a stiff middle stalk at the angles of the leaves. The fruit is a +gray-green berry growing in scant, drooping clusters. This <i>gray +drooping berry is the sumac poison sign</i>, for the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">[180]</a></span>fruit of the +harmless sumach is crimson and is held erect in close pyramidal +clusters.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">[181]</a></span></p> + +<p>Witch-hazel (Pond's Extract) is used as a remedy for all of these +poisons, but it is claimed that a paste made of <i>cooking-soda</i> and water +is better. Alcohol will sometimes be effective, also a strong lye made +of wood-ashes. Salt and water will give relief to some. It seems to +depend upon the person whether the remedy, as well as the poison, will +have effect.</p> + + + + +<div class='center'><br /><big><b>Yellow Lady's-Slipper</b></big><br /></div> + +<p>Growing in bogs and low woods from Maine to Minnesota and Washington, +southward to Georgia and Missouri, there is a sweet-scented, little +yellow-and-brown flower called the yellow lady's-slipper, the plant of +which is said to have the same effect when handled as poison-ivy. This +flower is an orchid. The stalk, from one to two feet high, bears a +single blossom at the top, and the leaves, shaped and veined like those +of the lily-of-the-valley, grow alternately down the stem. The plant +does not branch. Like the ivy, the yellow lady's-slipper does not poison +every one.</p> + +<p>I know of no other wild plants that are poisonous to the touch; the +following will poison only if taken inwardly.</p> + +<div><a name="poison_plant2" id="poison_plant2"></a></div> +<div class="figright" style="width: 251px;"> +<img src="images/illus_p185.png" width="251" height="400" alt="Plants poison to the taste." title="Plants poison to the taste." /> +<span class="caption">Plants poison to the taste.</span> +</div> +<div class='center'><br /><big><b>Deadly Nightshade</b></big><br /></div> + +<p>To the nightshade family belong plants that are poisonous and plants +that are not, but the thrilling name, deadly nightshade, carries with it +the certainty of poison.</p> + +<p>The plant is an annual and you may often find it growing in a neglected +corner of the garden as well as in waste places. It is a tall plant; the +one I remember in our own garden reached to the top of a five-foot board +fence. Its <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">[182]</a></span>leaves are rather triangular in shape, they are dark green +and the wavy edges are notched rather than toothed. The flowers are +white and grow in small clusters. The fruit is a berry, round, black, +and smooth, with calyx adhering to it. The berry clusters grow at the +end of drooping stems. This must not be mistaken for the high-bush +blueberry, for to eat the fruit would be most dangerous.</p> + +<p>The antidotes for nightshade poison are emetics, cathartics, and +stimulants. The poison should be thrown off the stomach first, then +strong coffee be given as a stimulant.</p> + + +<div class='center'><br /><big><b>Pokeweed, Pigeonberry</b></big><br /></div> + +<p>Pokeweed comes under the heading of poisonous plants though its berries +are eaten by birds, and its young shoots are said to be almost equal in +flavor, and quite as wholesome, as asparagus. It seems to be the large +perennial root that holds the poison, though some authorities claim that +the poison permeates the entire plant to a certain extent. The root is +sometimes mistaken for that of edible plants and the young leaves for +those of the marsh-marigold, which are edible when cooked. It is a tall +plant with a stout stem and emits a strong odor. You will find it +growing by the wayside and in rocky places. The leaves are oblong and +pointed at the tips and base. They have no teeth. The small white +flowers are in clusters. The fruit is a small, flat, dark-purple berry, +growing in long, upstanding clusters on a central stalk. The individual +stem of the berry is very short. The name inkberry was given to the +plant because of the strong stain of the berry juice which was sometimes +used for ink. Pokeweed is at home in various states, Maine to Minnesota, +Arkansas, and Florida.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">[183]</a></span></p> + + +<div class='center'><br /><big><b>Poison-Hemlock</b></big><br /></div> + +<p>The poison-hemlock is well known historically, being in use at the time +of Socrates, and believed to have been administered to him by the +Greeks. It is quite as poisonous now as in Socrates's day, and +accidental poisoning has come from people eating the seeds, mistaking +them for anise-seed, eating the leaves for parsley and the roots for +parsnips. The plant grows from two to seven feet high; its stem is +smooth and spotted or streaked with purplish-red. It has large, +parsley-like leaves and pretty clusters of small, white flowers which +grow, stiff-stemmed, from a common centre and blossom in July and +August. When the fresh leaves are bruised they give out a distinctly +mouse-like odor and they are very nauseating to the taste. +Poison-hemlock is common on waysides and waste places in New York, West +Virginia, Pennsylvania, New Jersey, and Ohio. It is also found in New +England and Michigan, Wisconsin, Illinois, Louisiana, and California.</p> + +<p>The treatment recommended by professionals is emetics, warmth of hands +and feet, artificial respiration, and the subcutaneous injection of +atropine, administered by a physician.</p> + + +<div class='center'><br /><big><b>Water-Hemlock</b></big><br /></div> + +<p>Water-hemlock is similar in appearance and in effect. It is found in wet +places and on the borders of swamps. The remedies are the same as for +poison-hemlock.</p> + + + + +<h3><br />Jimson-Weed</h3> + +<p>The jimson-weed is very common in Kentucky. I have not seen so much of +it in the east and north, but it appears to grow pretty nearly over the +whole United<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">[184]</a></span> States. It is from one to five feet in height, and an +ill-smelling weed, though first cousin to the beautiful, cultivated +datura, which is a highly prized garden plant. The stem is smooth, +green, stout, and branching. The flower is large, sometimes four inches +long, and trumpet-shaped. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">[185]</a></span>There are several varieties of this weed; on +some the flower is white, on others the five, flaring, sharp-pointed +lobes are stained with lavender and magenta. The calyx is long, +close-fitting, and light green. The leaves are rather large; they are +angularly oval in shape and are coarsely notched. The fruit is a +prickly, egg-shaped capsule which contains the seeds. It is these seeds +which are sometimes eaten with serious results, and children have been +poisoned by putting the flowers in their mouths.</p> + +<p>Emetics should immediately be administered to throw the poison off the +stomach, then hot, strong coffee should be given. Sometimes artificial +respiration must be resorted to. In all cases of poisoning a physician +should be called if possible.</p> + +<p>The habit of chewing leaves and stems without knowing what they are +should be suppressed when on the trail. It is something like going +through a drug store and sampling the jars of drugs as you pass, and the +danger of poisoning is almost as great.</p> + + +<h3><br />Toadstools</h3> + +<p>Unless you are an expert in distinguishing non-poisonous mushrooms from +the poison toadstool, <i>leave them all alone</i>. Many deaths occur yearly +from eating toadstools which have been mistaken for the edible +mushrooms.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">[186]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>CHAPTER IX</h2> + +<h3>ON THE TRAIL WITH YOUR CAMERA</h3> + +<div class='center'><b>What to Photograph and How</b><br /><br /></div> + + +<p>You cannot depend entirely upon your memory to recall the sights and +adventures of the trail, and will be only half-equipped if you go +without a camera and note-book. Several clicks of the camera will record +the principal events, while your note-book will fill in the detail.</p> + + +<h3><br />Selecting a Camera</h3> + +<p>In selecting a camera remember that every ounce in weight counts as two +when on the long trail, and that to have to carry it in your hand is +most troublesome and inconvenient. The folding camera, which can be hung +over your shoulder with a strap, is therefore the best; and do not try +to carry plates, they are too heavy. It is of little use to consult the +clerk of a photographic supply shop about the style of camera you should +buy. As a rule he is not chosen for his knowledge of the goods, and his +advice may be worse than none. The better plan is to secure descriptive +catalogues from dealer or manufacturer before investing, and study them +well. The catalogues will tell you the price, the size, the weight, and +<i>what kind of work</i> each variety of camera will do, and you will learn +the advantages and limitations of many before deciding upon one.</p> + + +<h3><br />How to Know Your Camera</h3> + +<p>The camera once bought and in your hands, the next thing to do is to +become thoroughly acquainted with it.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187">[187]</a></span> With your camera you are entitled +to a little book of instructions. Take your camera and the book, sit +down alone, and give them your entire attention. Read the book carefully +and, at the same time, carry out the instructions while the camera is +unloaded, that is, without the film. If the size of the diaphragm can be +changed, change it and look into the lens to see the effect; also try +adjusting the shutter and watch the lens for the effect of instantaneous +and time exposures. Try the focussing scale, locate some image in the +finder, and practise holding the camera pressed closely against your +body, pointing neither up nor down, tipping neither to one side nor the +other, but aimed directly at the object you are supposed to be +photographing. Then try turning the key which brings the film exposures +into position.</p> + + +<h3><br />Loading the Camera</h3> + +<p>Learn how to load and to unload, first without unrolling your film. +Afterward adjust the roll in the camera and see that it is properly +placed and will turn easily, before you loosen the end of the film. If +you detach the gummed paper which keeps the film tightly wrapped before +placing the roll in the camera, the whole film will spring loose from +its spool and become light-struck before you can adjust it.</p> + + +<h3><br />Count the Turns of the Key</h3> + +<p>With your first roll of films it is well to learn and remember the +number of turns you must give the key to bring a new exposure into +place. With my camera which takes a four-by-five picture, five turns of +the key are necessary between the exposures. Knowing this, I count, and +when the fifth turn is reached I complete it slowly, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188">[188]</a></span>watching carefully +the while for the new number to appear in the little red celluloid +window. In this way, even when hurried or excited, I do not lose an +exposure by turning the key once too often. Always remember to place a +new exposure <i>directly after</i> taking a picture, to make sure that you +will not take two on one film. In making ready for a new subject count +again, for there are four things one must be sure of with most cameras +before taking a photograph, and by counting you will know if any have +been omitted:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>(1) See that a fresh exposure is in place.</p> + +<p>(2) See that the shutter is properly adjusted for +instantaneous (or time) exposure.</p> + +<p>(3) See that diaphragm stop is set at the proper +opening for the light you will have.</p> + +<p>(4) See that the distance is correctly focussed. </p></div> + +<p>There are cameras, however, that are of universal focus and do not need +adjustment. These are convenient ones for the trail, as they are always +ready and can be used quickly. Being small, they are also light to +carry.</p> + + +<div class='center'><br /><big><b>Be Economical with Your Films</b></big><br /></div> + +<p>A very important thing to learn when taking photographs is to be +economical with your films, and especially is this so when on the trail, +for your supply is then necessarily limited. Merely for the sake of +using the new toy, many amateurs will photograph subjects that are not +of the slightest interest to any one, and very often, when a scene or +object does present itself that is well worth while, all the films will +have been wasted and no picture can be taken.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189">[189]</a></span></p> + + +<div class='center'><br /><big><b>Plan Your Pictures to Illustrate Your Trip</b></big><br /></div> + +<div><a name="beaver" id="beaver"></a></div> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 257px;"> +<img src="images/illus_p191-tb.jpg" width="257" height="400" alt="The white birch-tree makes a fine background for the beaver." title="The white birch-tree makes a fine background for the beaver." /> +<span class="caption">The white birch-tree makes a fine background for the beaver.</span> +</div> +<p>It is a good idea to plan your pictures so that they will illustrate +your trip from beginning to end. A snap-shot of your party starting on +the trail, another of the country through which you pass, with, perhaps, +one or two figures in it, and the remainder of the films used on objects +of interest found on the way. If you can secure pictures of any wild +animals you may see, they will make the series doubly interesting and +valuable. When you go into camp a view of the camp should be included. +When the pictures are printed write on the back of each what it +represents, where taken, and the date; they will then be valuable data +as well as trustworthy reminders.</p> + + +<div class='center'><br /><big><b>Backgrounds</b></big><br /></div> + +<p>Look for the best view of a subject before using your camera; there is +always a choice. One side may be much more pleasing or more +characteristic than the other, or may show interesting details more +plainly. If you have studied drawing you will be able also to find the +view which makes the best composition. The background, too, must be +considered, and the position of the sun. The simpler the background the +better. Near-by foliage is not good for figures; it is too confused and +the figures will mingle with it. Sometimes the adjustable portrait-lens, +which can be slipped over the other, will obviate that trouble by +blurring everything not in exact focus, and this lens will allow you to +stand nearer the object and so make it larger on the film. It is not +intended for distant views and the camera should not be more than six +feet from the subject when it is used.</p> + + + +<p>Quiet water makes an excellent background, also <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190">[190]</a></span>distant foliage and +hills, flat fields and meadows. These may be obtained for figures, but +often the very things you want to photograph most are in the woods with +foliage close to and all around them; then you must simply do the best +you can under the circumstances.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191">[191]</a></span></p> + + +<div class='center'><br /><big><b>Color Values in Photographs</b></big><br /></div> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="deer" id="deer"></a> +<img src="images/illus_p193-tb.jpg" width="600" height="395" alt="Blacktail deer snapped with a background of snow." title="Blacktail deer snapped with a background of snow." /> +<span class="caption">Blacktail deer snapped with a background of snow.</span> +</div> +<p>Another thing to remember is that, unless in broad sunlight, green will +take dark and sometimes black; and brown or tan, being of the same color +value in the photograph, will mingle with and often be lost in the +background. If you are photographing a tawny animal, and most wild +animals are tawny, try to get it when in the sunlight with a dark or +flat background, or else against a background lighter in color than the +animal. For instance, a red squirrel or chipmunk will be lost amid, or +against, the foliage of a tree, but on a fence rail or fallen log it +will stand out distinctly.</p> + +<p>If you have a chance at a beaver it will be near the water, of course. +Then the choice view will be where the water can form at least part of +the background. If the shore is at the back it may be difficult when the +print is made to find the beaver at all. In the interesting photograph +shown here the beaver is against the light trunk of the tree which shows +where he has gnawed it almost through. In all this the position of the +sun must be taken into account, but the rule of always having the sun at +your back, like most other rules, has its exceptions. I have found that +so long as the sun lights up the object, even when from one side, I can +secure a good picture; but I never allow it to strike the lens of the +camera, and I make sure that the subject is not silhouetted against its +background by having all the light at its back.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192">[192]</a></span></p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193">[193]</a></span></p> + + +<div class='center'><br /><big><b>Photographing Wild Animals</b></big><br /></div> + +<p>It is not easy to photograph wild animals after you have found them, but +you can do it if you are quick to see and to act and are also patient +enough to wait for a good opportunity. You will often find deer feeding +in sunlit places and can, if you stalk them carefully, approach near +enough to get a good shot. If they happen to be in partial or light +shadow, open the diaphragm of your camera at its widest stop and try for +an instantaneous exposure. Very good photographs are sometimes taken by +that method, and it is worth the experiment where time exposures are out +of the question, as in taking moving animals. A snap-shot will be of no +avail if the shadow is heavy, however, and a short time exposure may +sometimes be used. Set your time lever at No. 1, which means one second, +and the lever controlling the diaphragm at No. 16, and by pressing the +bulb once you will have a time exposure of one second. An important +thing for you to realize in taking animal photographs is the fact that +though the creature may seem quite near as you see it with your natural +eye, in the picture it will occupy only the relative space that it does +on the finder. If it covers a quarter of the space on the finder it will +cover a quarter, no more and no less, of the finished photograph.</p> + +<p>The wonderful pictures we see of wild animals are usually the work of +professionals who have especially adapted cameras; but to take the +photograph oneself makes even a poor one of more value.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="skunk" id="skunk"></a> +<img src="images/illus_p195-tb.jpg" width="600" height="350" alt="The skunk." title="The skunk." /> +<span class="caption">The skunk.<br /> +Don't get too near when you try to photograph him.</span> +</div> + + + +<div class='center'><br /><big><b>Shutter Speed</b></big><br /></div> + +<p>To photograph objects in rapid motion such as flying birds, the speed of +your shutter must be at least one three-<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194">[194]</a></span>hundredths of a second and you +must have a fast lens; but with a shutter speed of one one-hundredth I +have taken very good pictures of things moving at a moderate rate. A +walking or slowly running animal, for instance, can be taken with a +shutter speed of one one-hundredth. You should find out the speed of the +shutter when you buy your camera, then you will not throw away films on +things beyond its possibilities. "You press the button and we'll do the +rest" doesn't work where moving objects are concerned.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195">[195]</a></span></p> + +<p>Those who go a-gunning with the camera, stalk their game as carefully as +any hunter with a gun, and for really good results the following method +is the safest to adopt. Time and patience are required, but one does not +mind giving these, the interest is so absorbing and the successful +picture so well worth while.</p> + + +<div class='center'><br /><big><b>Set Your Camera Like a Trap</b></big><br /></div> +<div><a name="porcupine" id="porcupine"></a></div> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/illus_p197-tb.jpg" width="600" height="398" alt="The porcupine stood in the shade but the background was light." title="The porcupine stood in the shade but the background was light." /> +<span class="caption">The porcupine stood in the shade but the background was light.</span> +</div> +<p>Find the spot frequented by the animal or bird you are after, wait for +it to go away of its own accord while confident and unfrightened, then +set up your camera like a trap where the lens will point to the place +the bird or animal will probably occupy upon its return.</p> + +<p>If it is a nest it will be easy, for you can be sure the bird will come +back there and can adjust your camera to take in the entire nest. Where +there is no nest, sight your camera upon some object between which and +the lens the creature must come in order to be within focus, and trample +down any undergrowth that may obstruct the view. Make sure that your +focus is correct for the distance and that the film will take in the +whole animal. You can provide for this by staking off the probable size +of the animal at the place where you expect it to stand, and then +looking in the finder to see if both stakes are <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_196" id="Page_196">[196]</a></span>in focus. You will +probably have to raise the camera from the ground and perhaps tip it a +little. For this a low tripod is best but if you haven't that, and very +likely you will not, a convenient log, stump, or stone will answer the +purpose. If even these are not handy you can build up a stand of stones +or small logs, or pile earth into a mound. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197">[197]</a></span>Whatever material you use, +the stand must be made strong and firm. To have it slip or slide is to +lose the picture. Make your camera perfectly secure and immovable on the +stand, then tie a long cord to the release (the small lever which works +the shutter). The cord must be amply long enough to reach to the ambush +where you will hide while awaiting your game. The ambush may be a clump +of bushes, a convenient rock, or a tree behind which you will be +concealed. If there is no such cover near you can make one of brush and +branches. When the cord is carried from the camera to the ambush hide +the camera with leafy branches, leaving a good opening for the cord to +pass through to prevent it from becoming entangled. Then hie to your +cover and, with the slightly slack cord in your hand, await the coming +of your game.</p> + + + + +<div class='center'><br /><big><b>Taking the Picture</b></big><br /></div> + +<p>As the animal approaches the camera grasp your cord firmly and steady +your nerves to act quickly, and when it is in focus, not before, give a +quick, firm pull to the cord, releasing it immediately, and the thing is +done. Don't become excited at the critical moment and make your shot too +soon or jerk the cord too hard. If a bird is to be taken upon the nest +and the nest is in shadow a short time exposure can be given, or a bulb +exposure. For bulb exposure set the lever that controls the shutter at +<i>B</i> (meaning bulb), and the lever controlling the diaphragm at No. 16. +When the bird has settled upon its nest <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198">[198]</a></span>pull the cord, count three +slowly, and release it. The shutter will remain open as long as the cord +is held taut and will close when released. This method cannot be used +for long time exposures. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199">[199]</a></span>When you become more practised in the art of +wild-life photography you will know how much time to allow for the +exposures. There will be some failures, of course, but one good +photograph among several will repay you for all your trouble and will +make you keen to try again.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="ambush" id="ambush"></a> +<img src="images/illus_p199.png" width="600" height="364" alt="Photographing a woodcock from ambush." title="Photographing a woodcock from ambush." /> +<span class="caption">Photographing a woodcock from ambush.</span> +</div> + + +<div class='center'><br /><big><b>Photographing the Trail</b></big><br /></div> +<div><a name="country" id="country"></a></div> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 257px;"> +<img src="images/illus_p201-tb.jpg" width="257" height="400" alt="The country through which you pass, with a trailer in the foreground." title="The country through which you pass, with a trailer in the foreground." /> +<span class="caption">The country through which you pass, with a trailer in the foreground.</span> +</div> +<p>You can get a good picture of the trail with a snap-shot when it is in +the open, but a forest trail must have time exposure. When your eyes +have become accustomed to the dim light of the woods it will not seem +dark, and you will be tempted to try a snap-shot because it is easier, +but if you do you may certainly count that a lost film. It is not +possible to hold your camera in your hands and succeed with a time +exposure of over one second. The beating of your heart will jar it, a +breath will make it move, so some kind of a rest must be found as when +taking the animals with bulb exposure. If the light is very dim first +set the lever controlling the shutter at the point <i>T</i> (time), then set +the lever for the diaphragm at No. 16, press the bulb, and allow from +fifteen to twenty seconds', or even thirty seconds', exposure.</p> + + +<div class='center'><br /><big><b>Timing Without a Watch</b></big><br /></div> + +<p>You can time it without a watch by counting in this way: +one-and-two-and-three-and-up to the number of seconds required. One-and +is one second.</p> + + + +<p>When the seconds have been counted, press the bulb again and if the +camera has not moved you should have a good negative. No hard-and-fast +rules can be given for <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">[200]</a></span>this work because conditions vary; you must +rely some on your judgment and learn by experience. It is said that +overexposure is better than underexposure and can be handled better in +developing the films, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201">[201]</a></span>so when in doubt it is well to allow a little more +time than you think should be necessary. Curious results sometimes come +from underexposed films. I once had a print in outline, like a drawing, +from a negative made in the Rocky Mountains. It did not look in the +least like a photograph, there were no shadows, but it was a good +illustration of the scene.</p> + + +<div class='center'><br /><big><b>Photographing Flowers and Ferns</b></big><br /></div> +<div><a name="method" id="method"></a></div> +<div class="figright" style="width: 272px;"> +<img src="images/illus_p203.png" width="272" height="400" alt="Method of protecting roots to keep plants fresh while you carry them to camp for photographing" title="Method of protecting roots to keep plants fresh while you carry them to camp for photographing" /> +</div> +<p>If your camera will focus so that you can place it near enough to take +small objects such as flowers and ferns, another field of interest is +open to you and you can add a record of those found on the trail to +complete your series. A camping trip will afford better and more +unhurried opportunities for photographing flowers than a one day's +trail, unless you carry a box or basket with you for securing specimens +that you can take back and photograph at leisure. Do not break the stems +of the flowers or plants, take them roots and all. Loosen the soil all +around and under the roots so that which clings to the plant may be +undisturbed and taken up with it. If the soil falls away, cover the root +with damp loam or mud and tie it up in a large leaf as in illustration. +This method not only keeps it from wilting but will enable you to take a +picture of the growing plant with all its interesting characteristics. +If you put your plant with its clod of earth in a <i>shallow</i> bowl, pour +in as much water as the bowl will hold, and keep it always full, it will +remain fresh and vigorous a long while and may be transplanted to +continue its life and growth after you have finished with it.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_202" id="Page_202">[202]</a></span></p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203">[203]</a></span></p> + +<p>Just here must come the caution not to tear up wild plants by their +roots unless they are to serve a real purpose. Some of our most +beautiful wild flowers and rarest ferns are now in danger of being +exterminated because of thoughtless and careless people who, in +gathering them, will not even take the trouble to break the stems. When +the roots are gone there will be no more flowers and ferns.</p> + + +<div class='center'><br /><big><b>Look at the Date on Your Film</b></big><br /></div> + +<p>Even the best photographer cannot take good photographs unless he has +good films. On the box of every roll of films is stamped the latest date +when it may be safely developed and it is foolish to try to have a film +developed after that date has passed. When you buy your films be sure +they are fresh ones and that the date insures you ample time; one year +ahead is none too long.</p> + +<p>Do not open the box or take the wrappings from a roll of films until you +are ready to load your camera. Then save both box and wrappings, and +when your films have been exposed, use them for covering the roll again. +Keep the wrapped and boxed rolls in a dark place until they can be +developed. Dampness will spoil both films and plates. If you are in a +damp climate, or on shipboard, keep them in a tin box, tightly closed.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204">[204]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>CHAPTER X</h2> + +<h3>ON AND IN THE WATER</h3> + +<div class='center'><b>Boats Safe and Unsafe. Canoeing. Rowing. Poling. Raft-Making. Swimming. +Fishing</b></div> + + +<h3><br />Safe and Unsafe Boats</h3> + +<p>One seldom goes on the long trail, or into camp, without encountering +water, and boats of some kind must be used, generally rowboats or +canoes. The safest boat on placid water is the heavy, flat-bottomed +rowboat with oars secured to the oar-locks. In my younger days we owned +such a boat, and no one felt in the least anxious when I would put off +for hours alone on the lake at our camp in Pike County, Pa.; especially +as the creaking turn of the oar-locks could easily be heard at camp +loudly proclaiming that I still lived, while I enjoyed the luxury of +solitary adventure. But a tub of this kind is not adapted to all waters +and all purposes, and the safest boat on any water is the one best +adapted to it and to the purpose for which the boat is used.</p> + +<p>Round-bottomed boats tip easily and should, therefore, not be used when +learning to row, though they are safe enough in the hands of those +accustomed to their management. The best of oarsmen, however, cannot +prevent her boat from capsizing if her passenger does not know how to +enter or leave it, or to sit still when aboard.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="rowboat" id="rowboat"></a> +<img src="images/illus_p206-tb.jpg" width="600" height="370" alt="A rowboat is a safer craft than a canoe." title="A rowboat is a safer craft than a canoe." /> +<span class="caption">A rowboat is a safer craft than a canoe.</span> +</div> + + +<h3><br />Stepping in and out of a Boat</h3> + +<p>To step on the gunwale (the edge of the boat) will naturally tip it and +most likely turn it over. One should al<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205">[205]</a></span>ways step directly into the +<i>middle</i> in order to keep the boat evenly balanced, and in getting out, +step <i>from</i> the middle. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206">[206]</a></span>Stepping on the side or the gunwale of a boat +shows the ignorance of a tenderfoot. There are rowboats that are neither +round-bottomed nor flat but are shaped like the boat in photograph, page +206. These are safer than the round-bottomed, but are more easily +capsized than the flat-bottomed boats.</p> + + +<h3><br />Canoes and Canoeing</h3> + +<p>If you are to own a canoe select it carefully; consult catalogues of +reliable dealers, and, if possible, have an experienced and good +canoeist help you choose it. The pretty canoe made of wood will answer +in calm waters and wear well with careful usage, but sportsmen prefer +the canvas-covered canoe, declaring it the best boat for cruising, as it +is light, easy to manage, will stand rough usage, and will also carry +greater loads. The best make has a frame of hardwood with cedar ribs and +planking; spruce gunwales and brass bang-plates to protect the ends. +This canoe is covered with strong canvas, treated with some kind of +filler, and then painted and varnished. There are usually two cane +seats, one at the stern, the other near the bow. These are built in. +Canoes vary in the shape of the bow, some being higher than others. The +high bow prevents the shipping of too much water, but will also offer +resistance to the wind and so impede the progress of the boat. A medium +high bow is the best.</p> + +<p>One firm of camp-outfitters advertises a canoe called the Sponson, the +name being taken from the air-chambers built along the outside rail, +which are called sponsons. It is claimed that these air-chambers make it +next to impossible to upset the canoe, and that even when filled with +water it will support a heavy weight. Sponsons can also <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_207" id="Page_207">[207]</a></span>be purchased +separately and can be adjusted to any sized canoe.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208">[208]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="steady" id="steady"></a> +<img src="images/illus_p208-tb.jpg" width="600" height="370" alt="Keep your body steady." title="Keep your body steady." /> +<span class="caption">Keep your body steady.</span> +</div> + +<p>For a novice the sponsons would seem a good thing, as they not only +insure safety but, in doing away with the fear of an upset, make +learning to paddle easier. Then there are the guide canoes made +especially for hunting and fishing. They are strong, flat-bottomed, will +carry a heavy load, are easy to paddle or pole, and will stand rough +water. These canoes are good for general use on the trail.</p> + +<p>The prices of a <i>good</i> canoe range from twenty-eight dollars to forty +dollars. One may go higher, of course, but the essentials of the canoe +will be no better. A lower price means, as a rule, not so good a boat.</p> + + +<h3><br />Paddles</h3> + +<p>Girls and women generally require shorter paddles than men, as they do +not have the same reach of arm, and you can take your choice of lengths. +For the stern the paddle should be longer than for the bow. Paddles are +made of red oak, maple, ash, spruce, and cherry. Some authorities prefer +spruce for ordinary usage, but in rough water and in shooting rapids a +harder wood is best. The weak part of a paddle is where the blade joins +the handle, and this part should not be too slender. If you use spruce +paddles keep them smooth by trimming away all roughness and keep them +well shellacked, else they may become water-soaked. Paddles range in +price from one dollar and fifty cents to three dollars.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="placid" id="placid"></a> +<img src="images/illus_p210-tb.jpg" width="600" height="368" alt="Canoeing on placid waters." title="Canoeing on placid waters." /> +<span class="caption">Canoeing on placid waters.</span> +</div> + + +<h3><br />Accessories</h3> + +<p>A strong, healthy girl will no more need cushions and canoe-chairs than +a boy, but a back rest is not always to <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_209" id="Page_209">[209]</a></span>be despised. It is well to +have a large sponge aboard for bailing and for cleaning.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210">[210]</a></span></p> + +<p>At a portage or "carry," the canoe is carried overland on the shoulders, +and though some guides scorn to use a carrier, others are glad of them. +There are several styles, one being the neck-yoke carrier, another the +pneumatic canoe-yoke. The pneumatic yoke, when not inflated with air, +can be rolled into a bundle three by six inches, and when inflated it +can also be used for a canoe-seat, a camp-seat, and even for a pillow. +Its weight is two pounds and the catalogue price is three dollars and +twenty-five cents.</p> + + +<h3><br />Care of the Canoe</h3> + +<p>Even the strongest canoe should be well cared for. To leave it in the +water for any length of time, when not in use, is to run the risk of +damage and loss. A sudden storm will batter it against shore, send it +adrift, or fill and sink it. A canoe should always be <i>lifted</i>, not +dragged, ashore, and it should be turned upside down on the bank with a +support in the middle so that it will not be strained by resting only on +the ends.</p> + + +<h3><br />Getting in the Canoe</h3> + +<p>Never allow any one to get into your canoe or to sit on it when it is +out of the water. That is harder on it than many days of actual use. +When you are to get aboard your canoe, bring it up broadside to the +shore and put one foot exactly in the middle, then carefully place the +other beside it and sit down quickly, but with care to keep your +balance. If there is no one to hold the canoe for you, use your paddle +to steady yourself by pushing it down to the bottom on the side away +from shore. This will keep the canoe from slipping away from under you +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_211" id="Page_211">[211]</a></span>while you are stepping in. One of the first things to learn in +canoeing is to preserve your balance; even a slight lurch to one side or +the other must be avoided. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_212" id="Page_212">[212]</a></span>Make every necessary movement cautiously and +do not look backward unless absolutely necessary. Never attempt to +change places with any one while in the canoe. If the change must be +made, land and change there.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="shore" id="shore"></a> +<img src="images/illus_p212-tb.jpg" width="600" height="365" alt="Bring your canoe up broadside to the shore." title="Bring your canoe up broadside to the shore." /> +<span class="caption">Bring your canoe up broadside to the shore.</span> +</div> + + +<h3><br />Upset</h3> + +<p>Should there be an upset keep hold of your paddle, it will help to keep +you afloat, then if you can reach your craft and hold to it without +trying to climb upon it you can keep your head above water until help +arrives or until you can tread water to shore. If you can swim you are +comparatively safe, and a girl who goes often on the trail should, by +all means, be a swimmer.</p> + + +<h3><br />Paddling</h3> +<div><a name="paddle" id="paddle"></a></div> +<div class="figright" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/illus_p215.png" width="600" height="389" alt="How to use the paddle and a flat-bottomed rowboat." title="How to use the paddle and a flat-bottomed rowboat." /> +<span class="caption">How to use the paddle and a flat-bottomed rowboat.</span> +</div> +<p>Some expert canoeists strongly advise kneeling in the bottom of the +canoe while paddling, for at least part of the time, but the usual +method is to sit on the seats provided at bow and stern, or sit on the +bottom. The kneeling paddler has her canoe in better control, and +becomes more one with it than one who sits. In shooting rapids and in +rough weather kneeling is the safest when one knows how to paddle in +that position. It is a good thing to learn both methods.</p> + +<p>When you paddle close one hand firmly on the end of the paddle and the +other around the handle a short distance above the blade. Then, keeping +your body steady, dip your paddle into the water slightly in front of +you and sweep it backward and downward toward the stern, keeping it +close to the canoe. You face the bow in <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_213" id="Page_213">[213]</a></span>a canoe, remember, and reach +forward for your stroke. At the finish of a stroke turn the paddle +edgewise and slide it out of the water. For the next stroke bring the +blade forward, swinging it horizontally with the blade parallel to the +water, and slide it edgewise into the water again in front of you. <a href='#paddle'>Fig. 34</a> +shows the beginning of a stroke, <a href='#paddle'>Fig. 35</a> while the stroke is in +progress, and <a href='#paddle'>Fig. 36</a> the ending. During the stroke bring your upper +hand forward across your face or breast, and with the lower draw the +blade through the water.</p> + +<p>It is well to begin as bow paddler, for your duty there, in smooth +water, is to watch for obstructions such as hidden rocks and submerged +logs or snags, while the paddler at the stern must steer the canoe and +keep it in a straight course.</p> + +<p>At the beginning learn to paddle as well from one side as from the +other. To be able to change sides is very restful and sometimes a quick +change will prevent an accident. Like many other things, the knack of +paddling will come with experience and will then require no more thought +than keeping your balance on a bicycle and steering it.</p> + + +<h3><br />Loading a Canoe</h3> + +<p>A top-heavy canoe is decidedly dangerous, that is why it is safest to +sit or kneel on the bottom, and in loading your camp stuff bear the fact +well in mind. Pack the load as low in the canoe as possible with the +heaviest things at the bottom, but use common sense and do not put +things that should be kept dry underneath where any water that is +shipped will settle and soak them. Think again and put cooking utensils +and lunch provender where you can reach them without unloading the +canoe. The packing should be done in such a way as to cause the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_214" id="Page_214">[214]</a></span>canoe +to tip neither at one end or at the other, and certainly not to one +side.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215">[215]</a></span></p> + + + + +<h3><br />Rowing</h3> + +<p>A rowboat is a safer craft than a canoe, and rowing is not a difficult +feat, but there is a difference between the rowing of a heavy +flat-bottomed boat and rowing a light skiff or round-bottomed rowboat. +In rowing properly one's body does most of the work and the strain comes +more on the muscles of the back than on those of the arms.</p> + +<p>In paddling you face the bow of the canoe; in rowing you are turned +around and face the stern of your boat. In paddling you reach forward +and draw your paddle back; in rowing you lean back and pull your oars +forward. When beginning a stroke grasp the handles of your oars firmly +near the ends, lean forward with arms outstretched and elbows straight, +the oars slanting backward, and, by bearing down on the handles of the +oars, lift the blades above the water. Then drop them in edgewise and +pull, straightening your body, bending your elbows, and bringing your +hands together one above the other. As you finish the stroke bear down +on your oars to lift the blades out of the water again, turn your wrists +to bring the flat of the blades almost parallel with the water but with +the back edge lifted a little; then bend forward and, sweeping the oars +backward, turning the edge down, plunge them in the water for another +pull. Turning the wrists at the beginning of a stroke feathers the oar, +the forward edge of which is sometimes allowed to skim lightly over the +surface of the water as the oar is carried backward. In steering with +the oars you pull hardest on the oar on the side <i>opposite</i> to the +direction you wish to take. A little practise and all this comes easy +enough.</p> + +<p>The thing for a beginner to avoid is "catching a crab."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_216" id="Page_216">[216]</a></span> That is, +dipping the oars so lightly in the water as not to give sufficient hold, +which will cause them, when pulled forward, to fly up and send the rower +sprawling on her back. In dipping too deeply there is danger of losing +an oar by the suction of the water. Experience will teach the proper +depth for the stroke.</p> + +<p>On some of the Adirondack lakes the round-bottomed rowboats are used +almost exclusively, but the boat with a narrow, flat bottom is safer and +is both light and easy to row. A cedar rowboat is the most desirable. +The oars should be light for ordinary rowing yet strong enough to +prevent their snapping above the blade in rough water.</p> + + +<h3><br />Rafts</h3> + +<p>You can never tell just what will happen when you go on the long trail, +that is one of its charms, nor do you know what you will be called upon +to do. The girl best versed in the ways of the water as well as of the +woods is surest of safety, and can be most helpful to her party. +Possibly you may never be called upon to build a raft, and again an +emergency may arise when a raft will not only be convenient but +absolutely necessary. When such an emergency does come it is not likely +that you will have anything besides the roughest of building material +and no tools besides your small axe or hatchet. But with your axe you +can chop off limbs of sufficient size for the raft from fallen trees, +and with ropes made of the inner bark of trees you can bind your small +logs together in such a way as to hold them firmly. Do not use green +wood, it will not float like the dry. Logs about twelve inches in +diameter are the best, but half that size will make a good raft. Six +feet by twelve is a fair size. The smaller the logs the larger the raft +must be in order to carry any weight, for it must cover a wider surface +of water than is <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_217" id="Page_217">[217]</a></span>necessary for one made of large logs. One good-sized +log will carry your weight easily, but a small one will sink beneath +you.</p> + +<p>If you have two long, strong ropes you can use them for binding the logs +together; if not you must make the ropes from fibre of some kind. Daniel +C. Beard in his book, "Boat-Building and Boating," tells of making a +very strong rope of the inner bark of a chestnut-tree which had been +killed by fire. The fibre torn off in long strips must be twisted by two +persons, or one end may be tied to a branch while you twist the other. +When two are twisting one person takes one end, the other takes the +other end, and, standing as far apart as possible, each twists the fibre +between her fingers, turning it in opposite directions until when held +slack it will double on itself and make a double twist. The ends are +then brought together and the rope kept from snarling until it is bent +at the middle and allowed to double twist evenly all the way to the end. +The fibre rope will be a little less than <i>half</i> the length of the +original strands, and it should be about the size of heavy clothes-line +rope. The short lengths of rope must be tied together to make two long +ropes. Use the square knot in tying to make sure that it will not slip. +When the knot is wet it will be quite secure.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="raft" id="raft"></a> +<img src="images/illus_p219.png" width="600" height="399" alt="The raft of logs." title="The raft of logs." /> +<span class="caption">The raft of logs.</span> +</div> + + +<h3><br />Primitive Weaving Method</h3> +<div><a name="weaving" id="weaving"></a></div> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 252px;"> +<img src="images/illus_p221.png" width="252" height="400" alt="Primitive weaving in raft building." title="Primitive weaving in raft building." /> +<span class="caption">Primitive weaving in raft building.</span> +</div> + +<p>For tying the logs together use the primitive weaving method. Lay three +lengths of rope on the ground, one for the middle and one each for the +ends of the logs. Roll one log along the ropes until it rests across the +middle of each rope, then turn each rope over the log, forming a bight +as in <a href='#weaving'>Fig. 37</a>. Bring the lower rope over the upper (<a href='#weaving'>Fig. 38</a>) to form a +loop, and turn it back over the log (<a href='#weaving'>Fig. 39</a>). This leaves the log with +three loops of rope <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_218" id="Page_218">[218]</a></span>around it, one end of each rope lying on the +ground, the other end turned back over the log. Now roll another log +over the lower ropes up close to the first log (<a href='#weaving'>Fig. 40</a>).<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_219" id="Page_219">[219]</a></span> Bring down the +upper ropes over the second log (<a href='#weaving'>Fig. 41</a>), cross the lower ropes <i>over</i> +the upper ones and turn them back (<a href='#weaving'>Fig. 42</a>). Draw the ropes tight and +push the logs as closely together as possible; unless your logs are +straight there will be wide spaces between. Roll the third log over the +lower ropes and make the weaving loop as with the other two, <i>always</i> +crossing the lower rope <i>over</i> the upper (<a href='#weaving'>Fig. 43</a>). Continue weaving in +new logs until the raft is the required width, then tie the ends of the +ropes around the last log. Remember to keep the ropes on the ground +always in a straight line without slanting them, otherwise the sides of +your raft will not be at right angles to the ends, and it will be a +crazily built affair, cranky and difficult to manage.</p> + +<p>Chop notches on the outside logs where the ropes are to pass over them, +and they will keep the rope from slipping out of place (<a href='#weaving'>Fig. 44</a>). Cut +two, more slender, logs for the ends of the raft and lash them on across +the others as in <a href='#weaving'>Fig. 45</a>. The end logs should extend a little beyond +each side of the raft. Fasten a rope with a strong slip knot to one end +of the cross log and wrap it over the log and under the first lengthwise +log, then over and under again to form a cross on top. When the rope is +under the second time bring it up between the second and third log, then +down between the third and fourth log, and so on to the end, when you +must make a secure fastening. These cross logs give additional strength, +keep the raft in shape, and prevent its shipping too much water.</p> + +<p>If you will make a miniature raft, following these directions carefully, +when the time comes for you to build a full-sized one you will be quite +familiar with the method of construction and will know exactly how to go +about it.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_220" id="Page_220">[220]</a></span></p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_221" id="Page_221">[221]</a></span></p> + +<p>For the little raft use small, straight branches about twelve inches +long. Twist your slender rope of fibre if you can get it, of string if +you cannot, and weave it around the sticks just as you would weave the +rope around the logs, finishing off with the two end sticks for the end +logs.</p> + + +<h3><br />Poling</h3> + +<p>If you have a raft you must know how to pole it, and at times it is +necessary to pole other kinds of craft. Select a straight pole of +strong, green wood eight feet or more in length. The length of the pole +will depend upon the depth of the water, for it must be long enough to +reach bottom. Trim off all the small branches and make it as smooth as +possible.</p> + +<p>When the water is deep and calm a pole may sometimes be used as a paddle +to send the raft along, but its real purpose is to push from the bottom. +In poling you must necessarily stand near <ins title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'the the'">the</ins> edge of the raft and must +therefore be careful not to lean too far over the water lest you lose +your balance and fall in.</p> + +<p>Poling is a primitive, go-as-you-please method of propelling a craft and +is almost free from rules except those suggested by the common sense of +the poler. Like the early pioneers, you simply do the best you can under +the circumstances and are alert to take advantage of every element in +your favor. Where there is a current you pole for it and then allow your +raft to float with it, provided it goes in the direction you wish to +take and is not too swift. In this case you use your pole for steering, +which may sometimes be done from the stern, making a rudder of the pole, +at others from the side, and at times reaching down to the river bed. If +the current runs the wrong way be careful to keep out of it as much as +possible.</p> + +<p>Shallow water near the shore is usually the most quiet <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_222" id="Page_222">[222]</a></span>and the safest +for a raft. Here you can generally pole your raft up-stream when the +water is deep enough to float it and is not obstructed by rocks, logs, +or snags. A raft is not safe where there is a swift current, and there +should always be strong arms to manage it.</p> + + +<h3><br />Swimming</h3> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 273px;"><a name="water" id="water"></a> +<img src="images/illus_p225.png" width="273" height="400" alt="Learn to be at home in the water." title="Learn to be at home in the water." /> +<span class="caption">Learn to be at home in the water.</span> +</div> +<p>If you will realize that your body is buoyant, not a dead weight in the +water, and that swimming should come as naturally to you as to the wild +creatures, it may help you to gain the confidence so essential in +learning to swim. If you are not afraid of the water you will not +struggle while in it, and the air in your lungs will keep you afloat +while you learn to make the movements that will carry you along. You +will not sink if you are quite calm and move only your hands <i>under</i> +water with a slight paddling movement. Keep in mind that every inch +above water but adds so much to the weight to sink you lower. To throw +up your arms is the surest way of going straight to the bottom. Do not +be afraid to allow the water to come up and partially cover your chin.</p> + +<p>All sorts of contrivances have been invented to keep a person afloat +while learning to swim, but they all tend to take from, rather than to +give confidence, for it is natural to depend entirely upon them and to +feel helpless when they are taken away. According to my own experience +the best method is to have a friend place a hand under your chin while +her feet are touching bottom and to walk with you while you learn to +make the swimming movements. This will keep your head above water and +give you a sense of security, and you will then strike out confidently. +The support rendered is so slight you learn to manage your own weight in +the water almost immediately, while you have the feel<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_223" id="Page_223">[223]</a></span>ing that some one +upholds you, and the friendly hand may be withdrawn at intervals to +allow you to try entirely alone.</p> + +<p>You see that after all it is the <i>feeling</i> of being supported more than +the actual support that counts, and if you can convince yourself that +you need no support you won't need it. It is best to start by swimming +<i>toward</i> land instead of away from it. To know that you are not going +beyond your depth but are gaining the shore is a great help in +conquering fear.</p> + + +<h3><br />Movements in Swimming</h3> + +<p>If you are learning alone, begin in quiet, shallow water only deep +enough to float you; waist-high is sufficiently deep. Assume the first +position for swimming by throwing your body forward with arms extended +and palms of hands together, at the same time lifting your feet from the +bottom with a spring. This should bring your body out perfectly straight +in the water, feet together and arms ready for the first movement.</p> + +<p>Now separate your hands, turn them palm outward, and swing your arms +around in a half-circle until they extend straight out from the sides, +pushing the water back with your hands. In the second movement bend your +elbows and bring them down with palms of hands together under your chin, +and at the same time draw your legs up under your body with knees and +feet still held close together. The third movement is to send your arms +shooting straight ahead, while your legs, separating, describe a +half-circle and your feet pushing against the water force you forward +and then come together again in the first position.</p> + +<p>This is a point to be remembered: always thrust your hands forward, to +open the way, and your feet back, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_224" id="Page_224">[224]</a></span>to push yourself through it, at the +<i>same time</i>. It is like a wire spring being freed at both ends at once, +each end springing away from the middle. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_225" id="Page_225">[225]</a></span>When you push the spring +together, that is, when in taking the second movement you draw in your +hands and feet, do it slowly; then take the third movement—letting the +spring out—quickly, thrusting out your hands in front and your feet at +the back with a sudden movement, pushing your feet strongly against the +water and stretching yourself out as far as you can reach.</p> + + + + +<h3><br />Floating</h3> + +<p>Some people can float who cannot swim. Others can swim but are not able +to float. That is, they think they are not and do not seem willing to +try, but it is quite necessary every one should know how to rest in the +water, and learning to float is very essential.</p> + +<p>The hand of a friend will help you in this as in learning to swim, but +for floating it is held under the back of your head instead of under +your chin. Lie on your back with legs straight before you, feet +together, arms close at your sides, and head thrown back; trust the +water to bear you up and all that is necessary to keep you afloat is a +rotary motion of your hands <i>under</i> water. After a time all movement may +be given up and you will lie easily and quietly as on a bed. It is said +that it is easier for women and girls to float than for men, because +their bones are lighter, and some learn to float the first time they +enter the water; all of which is very encouraging to girls. Breathe +deeply but naturally while floating, for the more air there is in your +lungs the more buoyant will be your body and the higher it will float. +If your body is inclined to roll from side to side spread out your arms +<i>under</i> water until you steady yourself. If your feet persist in sinking +ex<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_226" id="Page_226">[226]</a></span>tend your arms above your head <i>under</i> water and this will maintain +the balance.</p> + +<p>Do not try to lift your head, but keep it well back in the water. If +your nose and mouth are out that is all that is necessary. Let your +muscles relax and lie limply.</p> + +<p>To regain your feet after floating bring your arms in front and pull on +the water with scooped hands while raising your body from the hips.</p> + + +<h3><br />Diving</h3> + +<p>You will learn to dive merely for the joy of the quick plunge into cool +waters, but there are times when to understand diving may mean the +saving of your own or some one else's life, and no matter how suddenly +or unexpectedly you are cast into the water by accident, you will retain +your self-possession and be able to strike out and swim immediately.</p> + +<p>One should never dive into unknown water if it can be avoided, but as on +the trail all water is likely to be unknown, investigate it well before +diving and look out for hidden rocks. Do not dive into shallow water; +that is dangerous. If you are to dive from the bank some distance above +the water, stand on the edge with your toes reaching over it. Extend +your arms, raise them, and duck your head between with your arms, +forming an arch above, your ears covered by your arms. Lock your thumbs +together to keep your hands from separating when they strike the water. +Bend your knees slightly and spring from them, but straighten them +immediately so that you will be stretched full length as you enter the +water. As soon as your body is in the water curve your back inward, lift +your head up, and make a curve through the water to the surface.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_227" id="Page_227">[227]</a></span></p> + + +<h3><br />Breathing</h3> + +<p>Breathe through your nose always when swimming as well as when walking. +To open your mouth while swimming is usually to swallow a pint or two of +water. Exhale your breath as you thrust your hands forward, inhale it as +you bring them back. "Blow your hands from you."</p> + + +<h3><br />Treading Water</h3> + +<p>In treading water you maintain an upright position as in walking. Some +one says: "To tread water is like running up-stairs rapidly." Try +running up-stairs and you will get the leg movement. While the water is +up to your neck, bend your elbows and bring your hands to the surface, +then keep the palms pressing down the water. The principle is the same +as in swimming. When you swim you force the water back with your hands +and feet and so send your body forward. When you tread water you force +the water <i>down</i> with your hands and feet and so send your body, or keep +it, up.</p> + +<p>It is even possible to stand quite still in deep water when you learn to +keep your balance. All you do is to spread out your arms at the sides on +a line with your shoulders and keep your head well back. You may go +below the surface once or twice until you learn, but you will come up +again and the feat is well worth while. What an outdoor girl should +strive for is to become thoroughly at home in the water so that she may +enter it fearlessly and know what to do when she is there.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="dinner" id="dinner"></a> +<img src="images/illus_p229-tb.jpg" width="600" height="371" alt="For dinner." title="For dinner." /> +<span class="caption">For dinner.</span> +</div> + + +<h3><br />Fishing</h3> + +<p>Just here would seem to be the place to talk of fishing, but I am not +going to try to tell you how to fish; that <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_228" id="Page_228">[228]</a></span>would take a volume, there +are so many kinds of fish and so many ways of fishing. One way is to cut +a slender pole, tie a fish-line on the small end, tie a fish-hook to the +end of the line, bait it with an angleworm, stand on the bank, drop the +hook and bait into the water, and await results. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_229" id="Page_229">[229]</a></span>Another way is to put +together a delicate, quivering fishing-rod, carefully select a "fly," +adjust it, stand on the bank, or in a boat, and "cast" the fly far out +on the water with a dexterous turn of the wrist. You may catch fish in +either way, but in some cases the pole and angleworm is the surest.</p> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 270px;"><a name="veteran" id="veteran"></a> +<img src="images/illus_p231-tb.jpg" width="270" height="400" alt="The veteran." title="The veteran." /> +<span class="caption">The veteran.</span> +</div> +<p>A visitor stood on the bank of our Pike County lake and skilfully sent +his fly skimming over the water while the boy of the family, catching +perch with his home-cut pole and angleworms, was told to watch and +learn. He did watch politely for a while, then turned again to his own +affairs. Once more some one said: "Look at Mr. J., boy, and learn to +cast a fly." But the boy, placidly fishing, returned: "I'd rather know +how to catch fish." It was true the boy had caught the fish and the +skilful angler had not. All of which goes to prove that if it is fish +you want, just any kind of fish and not the excitement of the sport, a +pole like the boy's will probably be equal to all requirements. But +there are black bass in the lake, and had one of them been in that +particular part of it, no doubt the fly would have tempted him, and the +experience and skill of Mr. J. supplemented by his long, flexible rod, +his reel and landing net, would have done the rest, while the boy had +little chance of such a bite and almost none of landing a game fish like +the bass.</p> + + + +<p>If you want to fish, and every girl on the trail should know how, take +it up in a common-sense way and learn from an experienced person. Own a +good, serviceable rod and fishing tackle and let it be your business to +know why they are good. Make up your mind to long, patient, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_230" id="Page_230">[230]</a></span>trying +waits, to early and late excursions, and to some disappointments. Take a +fisherman's luck cheerfully and carry the thing through like a true +sportsman. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_231" id="Page_231">[231]</a></span>There is one thing to remember which sportsmen sometimes +forget in the excitement of the game and that is <i>not to catch more fish +than you have use for</i>. One need not be cruel even to cold-blooded fish, +nor need one selfishly grab all one can get merely for the sake of the +getting and without a thought for those who are to come after. We have +all heard of good fishing places which have been "fished out," and that +could not be if the fishermen had taken only as many as they could use. +This rule holds good all through the wild: Take what you need, it is +yours, but all the rest belongs to others.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_232" id="Page_232">[232]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>CHAPTER XI</h2> + +<h3>USEFUL KNOTS AND HOW TO TIE THEM</h3> + +<div class='center'><b>Square Knots. Hitching Knots. Other Knots</b><br /><br /></div> + + +<p>Every outdoor girl should know what knots to use for various purposes +and how to tie them, but only those which will be found useful on the +trail are given here.</p> + + +<h3><br />Terms Used in Knot-Tying</h3> +<div><a name="bends" id="bends"></a></div> +<div class="figright" style="width: 219px;"> +<img src="images/illus_p235.png" width="219" height="250" alt="Bends In Knot Tying" title="Bends In Knot Tying" /> +</div> + +<p>There are three different kinds of bends that are given a rope in the +process of tying a knot, and each bend has its own name. You must learn +these in order to understand the directions for knot-tying; they are: +the <i>bight</i>, the <i>loop</i>, and the <i>round turn</i>.</p> + +<p>The <i>bight</i> (<a href='#bends'>Fig. 46</a>) is made by bending the rope so that the sides are +parallel. The <i>loop</i> (<a href='#bends'>Fig. 47</a>) is made by lapping one rope of the bight +across the other. The <i>round turn</i> (<a href='#bends'>Fig. 48</a>) is made by carrying one +rope of the loop all the way around to the other side, making half of +the loop double.</p> + + + +<h3><br />Square Knot</h3> + +<div><a name="square" id="square"></a></div> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 340px;"> +<img src="images/illus_p235square.png" width="340" height="225" alt="Square Knot" title="Square Knot" /> +</div> +<p>This is probably what you would at first call a hard knot, and so it is +a hard knot to come untied of itself or to slip, but it is easy to untie +when necessary. The hard knot most people tie is not quite the same as +the square knot, though it does resemble it.</p> + +<p>The ordinary hard knot is what is known as the <i>granny</i> knot, a slurring +name which means a failure. The granny <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_233" id="Page_233">[233]</a></span>knot will not always stay tied, +it often slips and it cannot be trusted when absolute security is +needed.</p> + +<p>Begin the <i>square knot</i> with the single first tie (<a href='#square'>Fig. 49</a>). You see the +end <i>X</i> turns up <i>over</i> the other rope while the end <i>O</i> laps <i>under</i> +the rope. Now bring the two ends together, lapping <i>X over O</i> (<a href='#square'>Fig. 50</a>). +Then pass <i>X</i> back under <i>O</i>, making the single tie once more. Now +compare what you have done with <a href='#square'>Fig. 51</a>. Notice in the drawing that the +ends of rope <i>X</i> are <i>both over</i> the right-hand bight, and the ends of +rope <i>O</i> are <i>both under</i> the left-hand bight. Draw the square knot +tight and it looks like <a href='#square'>Fig. 52</a></p> + +<p>You cannot make a mistake in tying the square knot if you remember to +notice which end is on top, or laps <i>over</i> the other rope when the first +single tie is made (<a href='#square'>Fig. 49</a>), and then be sure to lap this <i>same end +over</i> the other end in making the second tie which finishes the knot.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 283px;"><a name="eight" id="eight"></a> +<img src="images/illus_p237eight.png" width="283" height="200" alt="Figure Eight Knot" title="Figure Eight Knot" /> +</div> + +<h3><br />Figure-Eight Knot</h3> + +<p>Use the figure-eight knot to make a knot on the end of a rope or to +prevent the end of the strands from untwisting. Form a loop like <a href='#eight'>Fig. 53</a> +near the end of the rope, bringing the short end over the long rope; +then pass the short end under the long rope once, as shown by dotted +line, and carry it up over and through the loop (<a href='#eight'>Fig. 54</a>). Pull it up +tightly to bring the end square across the rope (<a href='#eight'>Fig. 53</a>). This knot is +not difficult to untie.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 218px;"><a name="overhand" id="overhand"></a> +<img src="images/illus_p237overhand.png" width="218" height="200" alt="Overhand Bowline Knot" title="Overhand Bowline Knot" /> +</div> + +<h3><br />Bow-Line Knot</h3> + +<p>To form a loop that will not slip and yet may be easily untied use the +bow-line knot.</p> + +<p>(1) When the loop is not fastened to anything use the <i>overhand method</i> +of tying it. First measure off sufficient <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_234" id="Page_234">[234]</a></span>rope for the loop you wish +to make and hold the place with your left hand (this place is indicated +by the arrow in <a href='#overhand'>Fig. 56</a>); <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_235" id="Page_235">[235]</a></span>then with your right hand throw the short end +of the rope over the long rope (<a href='#overhand'>Fig. 56</a>). Still holding the short end +with your right hand, with the left hand bring the long rope up to form +a loop over the end (<a href='#overhand'>Fig. 54</a>). Now with your right hand take up the end, +draw it farther through the loop, and pass it behind the long rope above +the loop, from right to left (<a href='#overhand'>Fig. 58</a>). Bring the end forward again and +slip it downward through the loop (<a href='#overhand'>Fig. 59</a>). Draw the knot tight and it +cannot slip, no matter how great the strain.</p> + +<p>(2) Use the <i>underhand method</i> when the loop is passed <i>around</i> +something or <i>through</i> a ring. This loop may be put around the neck of a +horse or cow without danger of injury, for it will not slip and tighten. +It can also be used in place of the hitching tie.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 372px;"><a name="underhand" id="underhand"></a> +<img src="images/illus_p239underhand.png" width="372" height="200" alt="Underhand Bowline Knot" title="Underhand Bowline Knot" /> +</div> + +<p>Slip the rope through the ring, or around the object, from left to right +while you hold the long rope in your left hand. Take a half-hitch around +the long rope, passing the end <i>over</i> the long rope, then under it. This +makes a loop like <a href='#underhand'>Fig. 60</a>. Transfer this loop from the short rope to the +long rope by holding loosely, or giving slack, with the left hand and +pulling up with the right. A little practise will enable you to do this +easily. <a href='#underhand'>Fig. 61</a> shows the loop transferred to the long rope with the +short end passing through it. At this stage carry the short end over, +then under the long rope <i>below</i> the loop (<a href='#underhand'>Fig. 62</a>), then up and through +the loop as in <a href='#underhand'>Fig. 63</a>. Tighten the knot by pulling on both the long +rope and the short end.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 379px;"><a name="sheepshank" id="sheepshank"></a> +<img src="images/illus_p239sheepshank.png" width="379" height="394" alt="Sheepshank Knot" title="Sheepshank Knot" /> +</div> + +<h3><br />Sheep-Shank Knot</h3> + +<p>It is sometimes necessary to shorten a rope temporarily and not +desirable to cut it, and the sheep-shank knot <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_236" id="Page_236">[236]</a></span>solves the problem. It +is used by the sailors, who do not believe in cutting ropes. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_237" id="Page_237">[237]</a></span>It will +stand a tremendous strain without slipping, but will loosen when held +slack, and can be untied by a quick jerk of the two outside ropes +forming the bights.</p> + +<p>Begin by bending the rope to form two bights as in <i>A</i>, <a href='#sheepshank'>Fig. 64</a>, carry +the single rope over at the top of the bend, then under to form a +half-hitch as in <i>B</i>. Do the same with the other single rope at the +bottom of the bend <i>C</i>, and draw both ends tight (<i>D</i>). With a little +practise this can be done very quickly. If the rope is to be permanently +shortened pass the ends through the first and second bights at the bend +as in <i>E</i>, and the knot will hold for any length of time.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 378px;"><a name="parcel" id="parcel"></a> +<img src="images/illus_p241parcel.png" width="378" height="200" alt="Parcel Slip Knot" title="Parcel Slip Knot" /> +</div> + +<h3><br />The Parcel Slip-Knot</h3> + +<p>This is the simplest of all knots to start with in tying up a parcel. +Begin by making a knot about one inch from the end of your twine, using +the single tie like <i>F</i> (<a href='#parcel'>Fig. 65</a>). If this does not make the knot large +enough use the figure-eight knot. The single tie is sufficient in +ordinary cases. Wrap your twine once around your parcel, lapping the +long twine over the knotted end as in <i>G</i>. Bring the knotted end over +the long twine, forming a bight, then <i>over</i> and <i>under</i> its own twine +with the single tie (<i>H</i>). Draw the tie up close to the knot at the end; +the knot prevents it from slipping off. Now the long twine may be drawn +tight or loosened at will, and will hold the first wrap in place while +the twine is being wrapped around the package in a different place.</p> + + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 379px;"><a name="cross" id="cross"></a> +<img src="images/illus_p241cross.png" width="379" height="215" alt="Cross-tie Parcel Knot" title="Cross-tie Parcel Knot" /> +</div> + +<h3><br />Cross-Tie Parcel Knot</h3> + +<p>When you have two or more parallel twines on your parcel and have begun +to bring down the cross-line, secure it to each twine in this way: Bring +the long twine down <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_238" id="Page_238">[238]</a></span>and loop it under the first twine to form a bight +as in <i>I</i> (<a href='#cross'>Fig. 66</a>).<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_239" id="Page_239">[239]</a></span></p> + +<p>Then carry the long twine over, itself forming a loop (<i>J</i>), then under +the first twine as in <i>K</i>.</p> + +<p>Draw tight and proceed to the second twine, making the same cross-tie.</p> + +<p>When you have carried your cross-line entirely around the parcel, tie it +securely to the first twine where it began and finish with a single-tie +knot, making a knot on the last end of the twine close to the fastening, +to keep the end from slipping through.</p> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 433px;"><a name="fisherman" id="fisherman"></a> +<img src="images/illus_p241fisherman.png" width="433" height="300" alt="Fisherman's Knot" title="Fisherman's Knot" /> +</div> + +<h3><br />Fisherman's Knot</h3> + +<p>The fisherman's knot is used by fishermen to tie silkworm gut together. +It is easily untied by pulling the two short ends, but it never slips. +Lay the two ropes side by side (<i>L</i>, <a href='#fisherman'>Fig. 67</a>), then make a loop around +one rope with the other rope, passing the end under both ropes (<i>M</i>). +Bring the end over and into the loop to make a single tie (<i>N</i>). Tie the +end of the second rope around the first rope in the same manner (<i>N</i>) +and draw both knots tight (<i>O</i>).</p> + + +<h3><br />Halter, Slip, or Running Knot</h3> +<div><a name="halter" id="halter"></a></div> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 384px;"> +<img src="images/illus_p243.png" width="384" height="400" alt="The halter, slip-knot, and hitching-tie." title="The halter, slip-knot, and hitching-tie." /> +<span class="caption">The halter, slip-knot, and hitching-tie.</span> +</div> +<p>The halter or slip knot is often convenient, but should never be used +around the neck of an animal, for if either end is pulled it will slip +and tighten, thereby strangling the creature.</p> + +<p>First form a bight, then with one end of the rope make a single tie +around the other rope (<a href='#halter'>Fig. 68</a>).</p> + + + + + +<div class='center'><br /><big><b>Half-Hitch</b></big><br /></div> + +<p>If you have anything to do with horses or boats you must know how to +make the proper ties for hitching the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_240" id="Page_240">[240]</a></span>horse to a post, or a boat to a +tree, stump, or anything else that is handy.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_241" id="Page_241">[241]</a></span></p> + +<p>The half-hitch is a loop around a rope with the short end secured under +the loop (<a href='#halter'>Fig. 69</a>). This answers for a temporary, but not a secure, +fastening.</p> + + +<div class='center'><br /><big><b>Timber-Hitch</b></big><br /></div> + +<p>When you want a temporary fastening, secure yet easily undone, make a +<i>timber-hitch</i> (<a href='#halter'>Fig. 70</a>). Pass the rope around an object, take a +half-hitch around the rope, and pass the short end once more between the +rope and the object.</p> + + +<div class='center'><br /><big><b>Hitching Tie</b></big><br /></div> + +<p>If the hitching tie is properly made, and the knot turned to the <i>right</i> +of the post, the stronger the pull on the long end of the rope, the +tighter the hold, and the loop will not slip down even on a smooth, +plain post. If the knot is turned to the left, or is directly in front, +the loop will not pull tight and will slide down. For the reason that +the loop will tighten, the <i>hitching tie</i> should never be used around +the neck of a horse, as it might pull tight and the animal be strangled.</p> + +<p>In making the hitching tie, first pass the rope from left to right +around the post, tree, or stump; bring it together and hold in the left +hand. The left hand is represented by the arrow (<a href='#halter'>Fig. 71</a>). With the +right hand throw the short end of the rope across the ropes in front of +the left hand, forming a loop below the left hand (<a href='#halter'>Fig. 72</a>). Slip the +right hand through this loop, grasp the rope just in front, and pull it +back to form a bight, as you make a chain-stitch in crocheting (<a href='#halter'>Fig. 73</a>). Down through this last bight pass the end of the rope and pull the +knot tight (<a href='#halter'>Fig. 74</a>).<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_242" id="Page_242">[242]</a></span></p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_243" id="Page_243">[243]</a></span></p> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>CHAPTER XII</h2> + +<h3>ACCIDENTS</h3> + +<div class='center'><b>Sprains. Bruises. Burns. Cuts. Sunstroke. Drowning<br /><br /></b></div> + + +<p>One learns quickly how to take care of oneself while on the trail, and +serious accidents seldom occur. In fact, every member of the party takes +pride in keeping herself free from accident; it is so like a tenderfoot +to get hurt. However, it is well to be prepared in case accidents do +occur, and this chapter is intended to forearm you that you may not +stand helplessly by when your aid is needed.</p> + + +<h3><br />Sprains and Bruises</h3> + +<p>The best immediate treatment for ordinary sprains and bruises is the +application of <i>cloths dipped in very hot water</i>. This takes out the +soreness and prevents inflammation. As soon as one application cools a +little, a hot one should take its place, as hot as can be borne without +scalding the flesh. Very cold water can be used when hot is not +obtainable. For a sprained ankle or wrist continue this treatment for a +while and then bind smoothly and firmly with a clean cotton bandage. +Keep as quiet as possible with a sprained ankle, and if the accident +occurs when on a walk the fireman's lift may be used for carrying the +injured person to camp.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 267px;"><a name="fireman" id="fireman"></a> +<img src="images/illus_p245-tb.jpg" width="267" height="400" alt="The fireman's lift." title="The fireman's lift." /> +<span class="caption">The fireman's lift.</span> +</div> + + +<h3><br />Fireman's Lift</h3> + +<p>To be able to use the fireman's lift may be to save a life, as it can be +employed when there is but one person <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_244" id="Page_244">[244]</a></span>to do the carrying. With +practise any girl of ordinary strength can lift and carry another of her +own size or even larger.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_245" id="Page_245">[245]</a></span></p> + +<p>In order to make the lift easy, instruct the patient to relax all her +muscles and become perfectly limp; then turn her on her face, stand over +her body with one foot at each side, face toward the patient's head. +Lean forward and place your hands under her arms, then gently raise her +to her knees, next slide your hands quickly down around her body at the +low waist-line, lifting her at the same time to her feet. Immediately +grasp her right wrist with your left hand, and pass your head under her +right arm and your right arm under one or both of her knees, shifting +the patient's hips well on your shoulders, rise to a standing position +and carry patient away.</p> + + +<h3><br />Cuts</h3> + +<p>The accidents that most frequently happen are simple cuts and bruises.</p> + +<p>For a slight cut wash the wound in lukewarm water to remove all dirt or +foreign matter, then press the lips or sides together and hold them in +place with strips of court-plaster or surgeon's adhesive plaster. Do not +cover the entire wound with the plaster, but put strips across at right +angles with the cut, leaving a space between every two strips and using +only enough plaster to keep the cut closed. Cover the hurt part with a +bandage to protect it from further injury.</p> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 292px;"><a name="aids" id="aids"></a> +<img src="images/illus_p247.png" width="292" height="400" alt="Aids in "first aid."" title="Aids in "first aid."" /> +<span class="caption">Aids in "first aid."</span> +</div> + + +<div class='center'><br /><big><b>When an Artery is Cut</b></big><br /></div> + +<p>When an artery is cut the wound is more serious and the bleeding must be +stopped <i>immediately</i>. When the blood comes from an artery it is bright +red in color and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_246" id="Page_246">[246]</a></span>flows copiously in spurts or jets. The blood in the +arteries is flowing away from the heart, therefore you must stop it +between the cut and the heart. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_247" id="Page_247">[247]</a></span>It is the arteries in the arms and legs +that are most likely to be injured. In the arm the large artery runs +down the inner side of the upper arm. In the leg the artery runs down +the inner side of the upper leg.</p> + + +<div class='center'><br /><big><b>The Tourniquet</b></big><br /></div> + +<p>To stop the bleeding press the artery <i>above</i> the wound firmly with your +fingers while some one prepares a tourniquet. Use a handkerchief, a +necktie, or anything of the kind for a tourniquet; tie it loosely around +the limb and in the bandage place a smooth stone (or something that will +take its place), adjusting it just above your fingers on the artery. +Then slip a strong, slender stick about ten inches long under the +bandage at the outer side of the arm or leg and turn the stick around +like the hand of a clock, until the stone presses the artery just as +your fingers did. Tie the stick above and below the bandage to keep it +from untwisting.</p> + +<p><i>Do not forget</i> that the tourniquet is cutting off circulation, and for +this to continue very long is dangerous. It is not safe to keep it on +more than one hour without loosening. If the hand or foot grows cold and +numb before that time loosen the tourniquet and rub briskly to restore +circulation. Should the wound begin to bleed again when the tourniquet +is loosened, be ready to tighten at once.</p> + +<p>In case of an accident of this kind summon a physician, if one can be +reached quickly. If not, take the patient to the nearest doctor, for the +artery must be tied as soon as possible and only a physician or skilful +trained nurse can do that part of the work.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_248" id="Page_248">[248]</a></span></p> + + +<div class='center'><br /><big><b>Emergency Stretchers</b></big><br /></div> + +<p>Loss of blood is too weakening to permit of the patient walking, and the +exertion may start the wound bleeding again, so a stretcher of some kind +must be contrived in which she may be carried. You can make a good +emergency stretcher of two strong poles of <i>green</i> wood, one large +blanket, and the ever-useful horse-blanket safety-pins. The poles should +be about six feet long, of a size to clasp easily in your hand, and as +smooth as they can be made with hurried work. They should, at least, be +free from jagged stumps or branches and twigs.</p> + +<p>Begin by folding the blanket through the middle <i>over</i> one of the poles, +then pin the blanket together with the large safety-pins, with the pins +about six inches apart, to hold the pole in place. That finishes one +side; for the other, lap the two edges of the blanket over the second +pole and pin them down like a hem. The stretcher will be of double +thickness and will hold the injured person comfortably.</p> + +<p>If a serious accident should occur some distance from camp and there are +no blankets to use, do not hesitate to appropriate for a stretcher +whatever you have with you. When there is nothing else cut your khaki +skirt into strips about twelve inches wide and tie the ends to two poles +(the poles need not be smooth except at the ends), leaving spaces +between.</p> + + +<h3><br />Burns and Scalds</h3> + +<p>Personally I have repudiated the old method of treating simple burns and +scalds and, instead of applying oil or flour, have discovered for myself +that simply holding a slightly burned finger or hand in a running stream +of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_249" id="Page_249">[249]</a></span>cold water not only gives instant relief but prevents the pain from +returning in any severity. Care of the injured part to prevent the skin +from breaking and causing a sore is the only thing left to be done. +However, here are the ordinary remedies for burns. Any of the following +things spread over a piece of linen or soft cotton cloth are said to be +good: olive-oil, carbolized vaseline, fresh lard, cream, flour, and +baking-soda. For serious burns a physician should be called.</p> + + +<h3><br />Heat Prostration and Sunstroke</h3> + +<p>This will seldom occur in a camp of healthy girls whose stomachs and +blood are in good order, but it is best not to expose oneself to the +fierce rays of the sun during a period of intense heat, or directly +after eating. In case any one is overcome and complains of feeling +faint, and of dizziness and throbbing head, take her where it is cool, +in the shade if possible, lay her down, loosen her clothing, and apply +cold water to her face and head. She will probably be able to walk when +she revives, but if not, carry her home or into camp. <i>Do not give +whiskey, brandy, or any stimulants.</i></p> + + +<h3><br />Cinder or Foreign Substance in the Eye</h3> + +<p>As a rule all that is necessary to remove "something" in your eye is to +take the eyelashes of the upper lid between your thumb and forefinger +and pull the lid down over the lower one. The lower lashes thus shut in, +combined with the tears that flood the eye, will clean the eye in most +cases.</p> + +<p>If the cinder or other substance is embedded in the upper lid, roll back +the lid over a match (the sulphur end taken off), then moisten a corner +of a handkerchief and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_250" id="Page_250">[250]</a></span>with it remove the cinder. If this treatment does +not avail and the substance cannot be removed, put a drop of olive-oil +in the eye, close it and cover with a soft bandage, then go to a +physician. <i>Do not put anything stiff or hard into the eye.</i></p> + + +<h3><br />Fainting</h3> + +<p>Fainting occurs most often in overheated and over-crowded places where +the air is impure. The proper treatment is to lay the patient flat on +her back with the head lower than the rest of the body and feet raised; +then loosen the clothes at waist and neck, sprinkle the face and neck +with cold water, and hold smelling salts or ammonia to the nostrils. +Insist upon giving her all the fresh air possible. It is good also to +rub the limbs with the motion upward toward the body.</p> + + +<h3><br />Drowning—Shafer Method</h3> + +<div><a name="restoring" id="restoring"></a></div> +<div class="figright" style="width: 244px;"> +<img src="images/illus_p253.png" width="244" height="400" alt="Restoring respiration." title="Restoring respiration." /> +<span class="caption">Restoring respiration.</span> +</div> + +<p>Secure a doctor if possible, but do not wait for him. Do not <i>wait</i> for +anything; what you do, do <i>instantly</i>.</p> + +<p>As soon as the rescued person is out of the water begin treatment to +restore respiration, that is, to make her <i>breathe</i>. If you can do this +her life will probably be saved. Not until the patient breathes +naturally must you work to bring warmth and circulation to the body. To +promote circulation <i>before</i> the patient <i>breathes naturally</i> may +endanger her life.</p> + +<p>First quickly loosen the clothes at waist and neck; then turn the +patient face downward on the ground with face either downward or turned +to one side, arms extended above the head, and with chest raised +slightly from the ground and resting upon your folded skirt. Also place +something beneath her forehead to raise her nose and mouth from the +ground. This will allow the tongue to <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_251" id="Page_251">[251]</a></span>fall forward. If it does not, +grasp it with handkerchief and pull forward; this will permit the water +to run out and will provide room for breathing.</p> + +<p>As in cases of fainting, so with drowning patient, she must have all the +air possible, for she is being suffocated with water, so do not allow a +crowd to form around her. Keep every one back except those assisting in +the actual work of restoration.</p> + +<p>With the patient in the position described, kneel by her side or, better +still, astride of her, and let your hands fall into the spaces between +the short ribs. With your fingers turned outward and your weight falling +upon the palms of your hands, press steadily downward and forward to +expel the air from the lungs. Hold this position a fraction of a second, +count four, then gradually release the pressure to allow the air to +enter again through the throat. Count four, and again press down. +Continue this treatment for a while, then, using another method, slip +your hands under the patient at the waist-line and lift her up +sufficiently to allow her head to hang down as in illustration.</p> + +<p>Lower her gently and lift again. Do this several times. You will find +that the movement will force the water from the lungs out of the mouth +and help to produce artificial respiration.</p> + +<p>Return to the first method and continue the treatment until the breath +comes naturally. It may be an hour or two before there are any signs of +life such as a gasp or slight movement, then the breath must be +carefully aided by more gentle pressure until it comes easily without +help.</p> + +<p>Do not give up hope, and <i>do not stop working</i>. The work may be +continued many hours if done in relays, that is, several girls taking +part, each one in her turn. Remember, however, the treatment must be +continuous and no time be allowed to elapse when the change is being +made.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_252" id="Page_252">[252]</a></span></p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_253" id="Page_253">[253]</a></span></p> + + +<h3><br />After Respiration Begins</h3> + +<p>With returning breath the first corner in recovery has been turned, but +the after treatment is very important. To restore circulation, begin by +rubbing the limbs <i>upward</i> with a firm pressure. This sends the blood to +the heart. Warmth must now be supplied by blankets heated before a fire, +and hot stones or bricks may be placed at the thighs and at the soles of +the feet. Or the patient should be wrapped in a warm blanket, placed on +a stretcher, carried to camp, or to a house, and put to bed. Here +hot-water bottles may be used, and as soon as it is possible for her to +swallow, if nothing else can be obtained, give a little strong, hot +coffee, unsweetened and without milk. Lastly, keep the patient quiet and +let her sleep.</p> + + +<h3><br />Nosebleed</h3> + +<p>The simplest method of stopping the nosebleed is to hold something +<i>cold</i> on the back of the neck (a large key will do) and pinch the +nostrils together; also cool the forehead with water and hold the arms +above the head. This is usually effective.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_254" id="Page_254">[254]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>CHAPTER XIII</h2> + +<h3>CAMP FUN AND FROLICS</h3> + +<div class='center'><b>Active Sports and Games. Evenings in Camp. Around the Camp-Fire. Quiet +Games, Songs, and Stories. Lighting Fires Without a Match</b><br /><br /></div> + + +<p>Camp fun should have a place, and an important one, in your plans for +the trail. For the time being the camp is your home and it should never +be allowed to become dull for want of a little gayety and wholesome +amusement. In a permanent camp there will be days when the entire party +will be loafing and then is the time to start a frolic of some kind.</p> + + +<h3><br />Obstacle Races</h3> + +<p>Competitive sports are always entertaining, and races, of one kind or +another, are the most exciting. The Boy Scouts have a race in which the +competitors drop first their staffs, then their hats, their neckties, +leggins, and, finally struggling out of the blouse of their uniform, +they drop that also. All this must be done while on the way and before +they cross a given line. At the line they turn to go back over the +course and, while running, take up their various belongings and put them +on before they reach the home goal.</p> + +<p>A race planned on these lines will be most amusing. A smooth course is +not necessary, you probably won't have it at camp, and to get over the +uneven ground, with the detentions of first dropping, then picking up +the articles dropped, will add to the excitement of the sport. An +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_255" id="Page_255">[255]</a></span>entertaining variation of this will be to have those taking part in the +race appear in impromptu costumes (worn over the ordinary dress) which +they must remove piece by piece as they run and put the things all on +again while returning over the course. Such hastily adjusted costumes +cannot help but be funny.</p> + + +<h3><br />Medals</h3> + +<p>The winner of the race should be given a medal as a prize. The medal can +be made of any handy material. A tin circular disk cut from the top of a +tin can will do. Drive a nail through this tin medal near the edge and +pass a string through the hole so that it may be hung around the neck of +the winner. Or instead of giving a medal, the victor may be crowned, +like the ancient Greeks, with a wreath of leaves.</p> + + +<h3><br />Blindfold Obstacle Walk</h3> + +<p>Another amusing camp sport is the blindfold obstacle walk. Place six or +eight good-sized stones on the ground in a row, about two feet apart. +The stones should be flat on top so that you can stand a tin cup filled +with water on each stone. Let one member of the party make a trial trip +over the cups, stepping between them as she passes down the row; then +blindfold her, place two people as a guard, one on each side of her, to +hold her hands and prevent a fall, and let them lead her to the end of +the line of cups and tell her to go over it again.</p> + +<p>The guard will steady her in case she stumbles but must in no way guide +her course aright. The stepper will step high and be absurdly careful +not to kick over one of the cups, for wet feet would probably be the +result. Sometimes the stepper will leave the line of her own accord; +sometimes her guard will purposely, and without <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_256" id="Page_256">[256]</a></span>her knowing it, lead +her off the course and then her careful, high steps over nothing add to +the fun of the onlookers.</p> + +<p>Any number may take part in the sport, and in turn act as stepper. At +the end a prize should be given by vote to the one who afforded the +greatest amusement.</p> + + +<h3><br />Hunting the Quail</h3> + +<p>This is something like the old game of hide-and-seek, with which all +girls are familiar, and it will not be difficult to learn. The players +are divided into "hunter" and "quails." The hunter is "It," and any +counting-out rhyme will decide who is to take that part. When the +hunter, with closed eyes, has counted her hundred, and the quails have +scurried away to their hiding-places behind trees, bushes, or rocks, the +hunt begins, and at the same time begins the cry of the quails: +"Bob-White! Bob-White! Bob-White!" These calls, coming from every +direction, are very bewildering, and the hunter must be alert to detect +the direction of one particular sound and quick to see the flight of a +quail and catch her before she can reach the home goal and find shelter +there. The first quail caught becomes hunter in her turn, and the noisy, +rollicking game continues as long as the players wish. Another romping +game is called</p> + + +<h3><br />Trotting-Horse</h3> + +<p>It is warranted to put in circulation even the most sluggish blood and +to warm the coldest feet, and it is fine for the almost frosty weather +we sometimes have in the mountains.</p> + +<p>The players form a circle in marching order; that is, each girl faces +the back of another, with a space between every two players. +Trotting-horse, the "It" of the game, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_257" id="Page_257">[257]</a></span>stands in the centre of the +circle. When she gives the signal, the players forming the circle begin +to run round and round, keeping the circle intact, while trotting-horse, +always trotting, tries to slip between the ranks, which close up to +prevent her escape. Trotting-horse must trot, not run. If she runs when +making her escape she must go back into the ring and try once more to +break away. When she succeeds fairly in getting through the ranks the +player in front of whom she slips becomes "It" and takes the place of +trotting-horse.</p> + + +<h3><br />Wood Tennis</h3> + +<p>Wood tennis is of the woods, woodsy. Green pine-cones take the place of +balls; hands, of rackets; and branches, of tennis-net. Lay out a regular +tennis-court by scraping the lines in the earth, or outlining the +boundaries with sticks or other convenient materials. Build a net of +branches by sticking the ends in the ground, and collect a number of +smooth, green cones for balls.</p> + +<p>Wood tennis must, of necessity, differ somewhat from the regulation +game. Since pine-cones will not bounce and there are no rackets for +striking them, they must be tossed across the net, caught in the hands, +and quickly tossed back. In other respects the rules of the established +game may be used entire or simplified if desired.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="darkness" id="darkness"></a> +<img src="images/illus_p259.png" width="600" height="393" alt="When Darkness Closes In" title="When Darkness Closes In" /> +</div> + + +<h3><br />Around the Camp-Fire</h3> + +<p>When darkness creeps through the woods, closing in closer and closer; +when it blots out, one by one, the familiar landmarks and isolates the +little camp in a sea of night, with the mutual wish for nearer +companionship, we gather around the camp-fire, the one light in all the +great darkness. We are grateful for its warmth, as the evenings are +chill, and its cheery blaze and crackle bring a feeling of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_258" id="Page_258">[258]</a></span>hominess +and comfort welcome to every one. If there are men in the party they +light their pipes and then begin the stories of past experiences on the +trail, which are of the keenest interest to all campers. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_259" id="Page_259">[259]</a></span>These stories, +told while one gazes dreamily into the glowing coals of the fire or +looks beyond the light into the mysterious blackness of the forest, have +a charm that is wanting under different surroundings. The stories are +not confined to the men, for in these days when girls and women are also +on the trail, they too can relate things worth the telling.</p> + + +<h3><br />Songs</h3> + +<p>Then come the songs. If there is some one in the party who can lead in +singing, she can use a familiar air with a rousing chorus as a frame +upon which to hang impromptu verses, made up of personalities and local +hits. This is always fun and you are surprised how quickly doggerel +rhymes suggest themselves when your turn comes to furnish a verse to the +song.</p> + +<p>The leader begins something like this, using, perhaps, the air and +refrain of an old chantey or college song.</p> + + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Camp song"> +<tr><td align='center'><i>Leader</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: .5em;">"I spotted a beaver,</span></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 1em;">But he wasn't very nye."</span><br /><br /></td></tr> +<tr><td align='center'><i>Chorus</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: .5em;">"Don't you rock so hard!"</span><br /><br /></td></tr> +<tr><td align='center'><i>Second Soloist</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: .5em;">"His fur was all ragged</span></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 1em;">And he had but one eye."</span><br /><br /></td></tr> +<tr><td align='center'><i>Chorus</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: .5em;">"Don't you rock so hard.</span></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Oh! You rock and I rock, and</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 1em;">Don't you rock so hard!</span><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_260" id="Page_260">[260]</a></span></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Everybody rocks when I rock, and</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 1em;">Don't you rock so hard."</span><br /><br /></td></tr> +<tr><td align='center'><i>Third Soloist</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: .5em;">"You may laugh at the beaver,</span></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 1em;">But he's always up to time."</span><br /><br /></td></tr> +<tr><td align='center'><i>Chorus</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: .5em;">"Don't you rock so hard!"</span><br /><br /></td></tr> +<tr><td align='center'><i>Fourth Soloist</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: .5em;">"Oh, do drop the beaver,</span></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><span style="margin-left: 1em;">And start a new rhyme."</span><br /><br /></td></tr> +<tr><td align='center'><i>Chorus as before</i></td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<p>A song like this may go on indefinitely or until the rhyming powers of +the party are exhausted.</p> + + +<h3><br />Bird-Call Match</h3> + +<p>In a camp where the members are all familiar with the calls of the +various wild birds, a bird-call match makes a charming game when the +party is gathered around the camp-fire. The leader begins by whistling +or singing the call of a wild bird; if it can be put into words so much +the better. For instance, we will take the first few notes of the +wood-thrush, which F. Schuyler Mathews has put into notes and words as +follows:</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 200px;"><a name="thrush" id="thrush"></a> +<img src="images/illus_p261.png" width="200" height="88" alt="Music: Come to me, I am here. Wood-thrush." title="Music: Come to me, I am here. Wood-thrush." /> +<span class="caption">Wood-thrush.</span> +</div> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_261" id="Page_261">[261]</a></span></p> + +<p>Or the yellow-throated vireo, which he gives in this way:</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 305px;"><a name="vireo" id="vireo"></a> +<img src="images/illus_p262.png" width="305" height="75" alt="Music: See me! I'm here, Where are you? Yellow vireo." title="Music: See me! I'm here, Where are you? Yellow vireo." /> +<span class="caption">Yellow vireo.</span> +</div> + + +<p>If the leader is correct the next player gives the call of another bird. +When a player gives a bird call which is known to be incorrect—that is, +absolutely wrong—and some one else can supply the proper rendering, the +first player is dropped from the game just as a person is dropped out of +a spelling-match when she misspells a word. If there is no one who can +give the call correctly, she retains her place. This is excellent +training in woodcraft as well as a fascinating game. Your ears will be +quickened to hear and to identify the bird calls by playing it; and +storing bird notes in your memory for use in the next bird-call match +will become a habit.</p> + + +<h3><br />Vary the Game</h3> + +<p>You can vary this game by giving the calls of wild animals and the +characteristic noises they make when frightened or angry.</p> + +<p>Living even for a short time in the wild will develop unsuspected +faculties and qualities in your make-up, and to perfect yourself in +knowledge of the woods and its inhabitants will seem of the utmost +importance. While learning the cries of birds and animals in sport, you +will wish to retain them in earnest, and to enter the wilderness +equipped with some knowledge of its languages, will open vistas to you +that the more ignorant cannot penetrate.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_262" id="Page_262">[262]</a></span></p> + + +<h3><br />Lighting the Fire Without a Match</h3> +<div><a name="matches" id="matches"></a></div> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 267px;"> +<img src="images/illus_p264.png" width="267" height="400" alt="Fire without matches." title="Fire without matches." /> +<span class="caption">Fire without matches.</span> +</div> +<p>A fire-lighting contest is the best of camp sports, for it requires +practise and skill, and to excel in it is to acquire distinction among +all outdoor people. There are girls in the Girl Pioneers Organization +who are as proficient in lighting a fire without matches as any of the +Boy Scouts who make much of the feat.</p> + + +<div class='center'><br /><big><b>Bow-and-Drill Method</b></big><br /></div> + +<p>The bow-and-drill method is the most popular among girls and boys alike, +and for this, as for all other ways of lighting a fire, you must have +the proper appliances and will probably have to make them yourself.</p> + +<p>Unlike the bow used for archery, the fire-bow is not to be bent by the +bow-string but must have a permanent curve. Choose a piece of sapling +about eighteen or twenty inches long which curves evenly; cut a notch +around it at each end and at the notched places attach a string of +rawhide of the kind used as shoe-strings in hunting-shoes. Tie the +bow-string to the bow in the manner shown in <a href='#matches'>Fig. 75</a>, and allow it to +hang loosely. It must <i>not</i> be taut as for archery.</p> + + +<p>To the bow must be added the twirling-stick and fireboard (<a href='#matches'>Fig. 76</a>). +Make these of spruce. The twirling-stick, spindle, or fire-drill should +be a little over half an inch in diameter and sixteen inches long. Its +sides may be rounded or bevelled in six or seven flat spaces like a +lead-pencil, as shown in <a href='#matches'>Fig. 76</a>. Cut the top end to a blunt point and +sharpen the bottom end as you would a lead-pencil, leaving the lead +blunt. To hold the spindle you must have something to protect your hand. +A piece of soapstone or a piece of very hard wood will answer. This <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_263" id="Page_263">[263]</a></span>is +called the socket-block. In the wood or stone make a hole for a socket +that will hold the top end of the spindle (<a href='#matches'>Fig. 76</a>).<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_264" id="Page_264">[264]</a></span></p> + +<p>The flat piece of spruce for your fireboard should be about two feet +long and a little less than one inch thick. Cut a number of triangular +notches in one edge of the board as in <a href='#matches'>Fig. 76</a>. Make the outer end of +each notch about half an inch wide, and at the inner end make a small, +cup-like hole large enough to hold the lower end of the twirling-stick. +This is called the fire pit. The reason you are to have so many notches +is because when one hole becomes too much enlarged by the drilling of +the twirling-stick, or is bored all the way through, it is discarded and +there must be others ready and prepared for immediate use.</p> + + +<div class='center'><br /><big><b>Tinder</b></big><br /></div> + +<p>All is now ready for creating a spark, but that spark cannot live alone, +it must have something it can ignite before there will be a flame. What +is wanted is tinder, and tinder can be made of various materials, all of +which must be <i>absolutely dry</i>. Here is one receipt for making tinder +given by Daniel C. Beard: "The tinder is composed of baked and blackened +cotton and linen rags. The best way to prepare these rags is to bake +them until they are dry as dust, then place them on the hearth and touch +a match to them. As soon as they burst into flame, smother the flame +with a folded newspaper, then carefully put your punk (baked and charred +rags) into a tin tobacco box or some other receptacle where it will keep +dry and be ready for use."</p> + +<p>This can be prepared at home. In the woods gather some of the dry inner +bark of the cedar, the fine, stringy edges of white or yellow birch, and +dry grasses, and dry them thoroughly at the camp-fire.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_265" id="Page_265">[265]</a></span></p> + +<p>Mr. Beard also says: "You can prepare tinder from dry, inflammable woods +or barks by grinding or pounding them between two flat stones. If you +grind up some charcoal (taken from your camp-fire) very fine to mix with +it, this will make it all the more inflammable. A good, safe method to +get a flame from your fine tinder is to wrap up a small amount of it in +the shredded bark of birch or cedar, so that you may hold it in your +hand until it ignites from the embers produced by the saw."</p> + +<p>With all your material at hand for starting a fire, make one turn around +the spindle, with the bow-string, as in <a href='#matches'>Fig. 76</a>. Place the point of the +lower end of the spindle in the small hole or "fire pit" at the inside +end of a notch in the fireboard, fit the socket-block on the top end of +the spindle (<a href='#matches'>Fig. 76</a>), and hold it in place with one hand, as shown in +<a href='#matches'>Fig. 77</a>. Grasp one end of the bow with the other hand and saw it back +and forth. This will whirl the spindle rapidly and cause the friction +which makes the heat that produces the spark. When it begins to smoke, +fan it with your hand and light your tinder from the sparks.</p> + + +<h3><br />Without the Bow</h3> +<div><a name="bow" id="bow"></a></div> +<div class="figright" style="width: 260px;"> +<img src="images/illus_p267.png" width="260" height="400" alt="Fire without the bow." title="Fire without the bow." /> +<span class="caption">Fire without the bow.</span> +</div> +<p><a href='#bow'>Fig. 78</a> shows a method which is the same as <a href='#matches'>Fig. 77</a>, the only difference +being that the bow is dispensed with, the hands alone being used for +twirling the spindle. While simpler, it is very difficult to put +sufficient force and speed into the work to produce fire, and it is a +very tiresome process. Another way is shown in <a href='#bow'>Fig. 79</a>. It will take two +girls to work in this fashion. The spindle is whirled by pulling the +leather shoe-string back and forth. One girl holds the spindle and +steadies the fireboard while the other does the twirling.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_266" id="Page_266">[266]</a></span></p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_267" id="Page_267">[267]</a></span></p> + + +<div class='center'><br /><big><b>The Plough</b></big><br /></div> + +<p>It is more difficult to produce fire by the plough method than with the +bow, but it can be done. The appliances are simple enough. All you need +is a fireboard in which a groove or gutter has been cut, and a +rubbing-stick to push up and down the gutter (<a href='#bow'>Fig. 80</a>).</p> + +<p>Other woods than spruce are used with success for fire-drills and +fireboards, but all must be dry. These are soft maple, cedar, balsam, +tamarack, cottonwood root, and <i>white</i>, not pitch, pine.</p> + + +<div class='center'><br /><big><b>Bamboo Fire-Saw</b></big><br /></div> + +<p>Part of an old bamboo fishing-rod will supply material for the fire-saw. +Cut off a piece of bamboo about fifteen inches long, split it, and +sharpen the edge of one piece to a knife-like thinness. Lay the other +half down with the curved surface up and cut a slit in it through which +the sharp edge of the saw can be passed. One or two girls can work this. +When there are two, one girl holds the slit bamboo down firmly, while +the other does the sawing (<a href='#bow'>Fig. 81</a>).</p> + +<p>Put a little wad of tinder on a dry leaf and arrange it where the +powdered sawdust will fall on it. When the powder becomes sufficiently +hot there will be sparks and these, falling into the tinder, can be +fanned into a flame by waving your hand over it. You will not see the +spark but when smoke arises you will know that it is there. Fan gently, +else you will blow the fire out, and keep on fanning until your flame is +started.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_268" id="Page_268">[268]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>CHAPTER XIV</h2> + +<h3>HAPPY AND SANE SUNDAY IN CAMP</h3> + + +<p>It is a good idea to carefully plan for your Sundays in camp, have every +hour mapped out and never allow the time to drag. Make special effort +and determine that the day shall be the very happiest day of each week, +a day in which every one of the campers will be especially interested +and will look forward to with genuine pleasure.</p> + +<p>Sit down quietly and think it all out. You will want the day to differ +from week-days; you will want it filled with the real life, not +half-life, the life only of the physical and mental, but the true, +entire life for each camper; you will want to emphasize this higher, +inner life, which is the spiritual.</p> + +<p>To this end, when you arise in the morning, form the resolution that the +day shall be a peaceful, enjoyable one for all the girls. When you take +your morning plunge resolve that not only will you be physically clean, +but you will also be both mentally and spiritually clean; then all +through the day keep in mind that you <i>can</i> rule your thoughts and that +you <i>will</i>, for power to do this will be given to you from the source of +all power. Allow not one thought to remain which is not kind, friendly, +cheerful, and peaceful. Should other thoughts intrude be firm and severe +with them, have no mercy on them, talk to those thoughts as you would to +robbers and thieves, tell them to go, <i>go</i>, <span class="smcap">go</span>, BEGONE, that +you have nothing in common with them and you <i>command</i> them to <i>go</i>; +then <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_269" id="Page_269">[269]</a></span>immediately busy yourself with active work, building the fire, +cooking, tidying up the camp, etc.</p> + +<p>Have your Sunday breakfast especially nice, with a few flowers, vines, +leaves, or grasses on the table for a Sunday centrepiece, and keep the +conversation on wholesome, happy topics.</p> + +<p>After breakfast is over and the camp in order, with all the campers go +for a short walk to some attractive spot either by the water or inland, +and when the place is reached, having previously selected certain songs +containing cheerful, religious elements, ask the entire camp to join in +the singing. If one of the girls can sing a solo, let her do so, or it +may be that two can sing a duet; then sit quietly while one of the group +reads something helpful, interesting, and beautiful, which will be +verses from the Bible probably, but may be one of Emerson's essays, or +extracts from other thoughtful and helpful writers.</p> + +<p>Close the simple exercises with another hymn and return to camp.</p> + +<p>In addition to the camp dinner prepare some one dish as a pleasant +surprise for the other girls. When dinner is over, the dishes washed, +and camp again in order, the girls should have one hour of quiet, to +read, write letters, sketch, or lie down and rest. Each camper should +respect the demands of the hour for quiet and rest and <i>not talk</i>, but +leave her companions to their own thoughts and occupations. If you +should see your special friend seated off by herself, do not disturb her +during the rest hour; it is each girl's right to remain unmolested at +that time.</p> + +<p>When the hour is up, the campers can each pack her portion of the +evening meal, and in a moment's time be ready to hit the trail, or take +the canoe for a paddle to the place previously selected where supper is +to be enjoyed, and if the trip be on land, all may play the observation +game while on the way.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_270" id="Page_270">[270]</a></span></p> + + +<h3><br />Observation Game</h3> + +<p>The leader counts 3 to the credit of the girl who first sees a squirrel, +2 for the girl who sees the second one, and 1 for every succeeding +squirrel discovered by any member of the party. A bird counts 6, if +identified 12. A wood-mouse counts 4, when identified 8. A deer 20, +beaver 12, muskrat 8, chipmunk 10, porcupine 14, eagle 30, mink 16, +rabbit 1. The player holding the highest record when reaching the supper +grounds is victor. Keep your records tacked up in your shelter to +compare with those you will make on the following Sunday.</p> + +<p>In this game every time a player stumbles on the trail 5 is taken from +her credit; if she falls, she loses 10.</p> + +<p>It is a rule of the game that the winner be congratulated by each camper +in turn, that she be crowned with a wreath of leaves, grasses, or vines +and sit at the head of the table. Keep this game for your Sunday +afternoons and play others during the week.</p> + +<p>In the evening, as the campers sit quietly around the camp-fire, if the +camp director will talk to the girls gently and seriously for a little +while on some phase of their real life, the talk will be welcome and +appreciated; then just before retiring all should stand while singing +the good-night song.</p> + +<p>It is hardly possible to present Sunday plans for each variety of camp +and campers. The suggestions given are for helping girl campers to look +upon Sunday in its true light, and to aid them in working out plans in +accordance with the purpose of the day, that they may enjoy happy, sane +Sundays in camp.<br /><br /></p> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<div class='tnote'><h3>Transcriber's Notes</h3> + +<p>Obvious punctuation errors repaired.</p> + +<p>The remaining corrections made are indicated by dotted lines under the corrections. +Scroll the mouse over the word and the original text will <ins title="Transcriber's Note: original reads 'apprear'">appear</ins>.</p> +</div> + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's On the Trail, by Lina Beard and Adelia Belle Beard + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ON THE TRAIL *** + +***** This file should be named 18525-h.htm or 18525-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/1/8/5/2/18525/ + +Produced by Audrey Longhurst, Emmy and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, +set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to +copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to +protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark. Project +Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you +charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission. If you +do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the +rules is very easy. You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose +such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and +research. They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do +practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks. Redistribution is +subject to the trademark license, especially commercial +redistribution. + + + +*** START: FULL LICENSE *** + +THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE +PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK + +To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free +distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work +(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project +Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project +Gutenberg-tm License (available with this file or online at +http://gutenberg.org/license). + + +Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic works + +1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to +and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property +(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all +the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy +all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession. +If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the +terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or +entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8. + +1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be +used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who +agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few +things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works +even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See +paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement +and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. See paragraph 1.E below. + +1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation" +or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual works in the +collection are in the public domain in the United States. If an +individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are +located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from +copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative +works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg +are removed. Of course, we hope that you will support the Project +Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by +freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of +this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with +the work. You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by +keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project +Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others. + +1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern +what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are in +a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, check +the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement +before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or +creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project +Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no representations concerning +the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United +States. + +1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: + +1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate +access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently +whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the +phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project +Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed, +copied or distributed: + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + +1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived +from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is +posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied +and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees +or charges. If you are redistributing or providing access to a work +with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the +work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 +through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the +Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or +1.E.9. + +1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted +with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution +must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional +terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms will be linked +to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the +permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work. + +1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this +work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm. + +1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this +electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without +prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with +active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project +Gutenberg-tm License. + +1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, +compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any +word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access to or +distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than +"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version +posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org), +you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a +copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon +request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other +form. Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. + +1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, +performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works +unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. + +1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing +access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided +that + +- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from + the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method + you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is + owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he + has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the + Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments + must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you + prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax + returns. Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and + sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the + address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to + the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation." + +- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies + you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he + does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm + License. You must require such a user to return or + destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium + and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of + Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any + money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the + electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days + of receipt of the work. + +- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free + distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set +forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from +both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael +Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark. Contact the +Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below. + +1.F. + +1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable +effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread +public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm +collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain +"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or +corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual +property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a +computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by +your equipment. + +1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right +of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project +Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all +liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal +fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT +LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE +PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH F3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE +TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE +LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR +INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH +DAMAGE. + +1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a +defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can +receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a +written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you +received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with +your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you with +the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a +refund. If you received the work electronically, the person or entity +providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to +receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If the second copy +is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further +opportunities to fix the problem. + +1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth +in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS' WITH NO OTHER +WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO +WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTIBILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. + +1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied +warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages. +If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the +law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be +interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by +the applicable state law. The invalidity or unenforceability of any +provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions. + +1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the +trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone +providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance +with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production, +promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works, +harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees, +that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do +or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm +work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any +Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause. + + +Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm + +Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of +electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers +including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It exists +because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from +people in all walks of life. + +Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the +assistance they need, is critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's +goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will +remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure +and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations. +To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation +and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4 +and the Foundation web page at http://www.pglaf.org. + + +Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive +Foundation + +The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit +501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the +state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal +Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification +number is 64-6221541. Its 501(c)(3) letter is posted at +http://pglaf.org/fundraising. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent +permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws. + +The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S. +Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered +throughout numerous locations. Its business office is located at +809 North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887, email +business@pglaf.org. Email contact links and up to date contact +information can be found at the Foundation's web site and official +page at http://pglaf.org + +For additional contact information: + Dr. Gregory B. Newby + Chief Executive and Director + gbnewby@pglaf.org + + +Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation + +Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide +spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of +increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be +freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest +array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations +($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt +status with the IRS. + +The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating +charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United +States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a +considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up +with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations +where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To +SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any +particular state visit http://pglaf.org + +While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we +have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition +against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who +approach us with offers to donate. + +International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make +any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from +outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. + +Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation +methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other +ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations. +To donate, please visit: http://pglaf.org/donate + + +Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. + +Professor Michael S. Hart is the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm +concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared +with anyone. For thirty years, he produced and distributed Project +Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support. + + +Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S. +unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not necessarily +keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. + + +Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: + + http://www.gutenberg.org + +This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, +including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to +subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. + + +</pre> + +</body> +</html> diff --git a/18525-h/images/emblem.png b/18525-h/images/emblem.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..412a998 --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/emblem.png diff --git a/18525-h/images/frontispiece-tb.jpg b/18525-h/images/frontispiece-tb.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ca4df49 --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/frontispiece-tb.jpg diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p005-tb.jpg b/18525-h/images/illus_p005-tb.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..588ff91 --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p005-tb.jpg diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p009.png b/18525-h/images/illus_p009.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..f0ce703 --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p009.png diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p011.png b/18525-h/images/illus_p011.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c54a121 --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p011.png diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p013-tb.jpg b/18525-h/images/illus_p013-tb.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..753549c --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p013-tb.jpg diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p017.png b/18525-h/images/illus_p017.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7360df --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p017.png diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p019.png b/18525-h/images/illus_p019.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a981cbe --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p019.png diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p023.png b/18525-h/images/illus_p023.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9d4f390 --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p023.png diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p024.png b/18525-h/images/illus_p024.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3dca0a7 --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p024.png diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p025.png b/18525-h/images/illus_p025.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3334840 --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p025.png diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p026.png b/18525-h/images/illus_p026.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e34dae1 --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p026.png diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p029.png b/18525-h/images/illus_p029.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3ecb9d9 --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p029.png diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p037compass.png b/18525-h/images/illus_p037compass.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..20b0723 --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p037compass.png diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p037compass2.png b/18525-h/images/illus_p037compass2.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..44a2a62 --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p037compass2.png diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p037star.png b/18525-h/images/illus_p037star.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..78a950d --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p037star.png diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p049-tb.jpg b/18525-h/images/illus_p049-tb.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a372713 --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p049-tb.jpg diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p051.png b/18525-h/images/illus_p051.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c61796d --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p051.png diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p053.png b/18525-h/images/illus_p053.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..1663047 --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p053.png diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p055-tb.jpg b/18525-h/images/illus_p055-tb.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..0bdf185 --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p055-tb.jpg diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p057-tb.jpg b/18525-h/images/illus_p057-tb.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a4bb967 --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p057-tb.jpg diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p059.png b/18525-h/images/illus_p059.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9da6c5f --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p059.png diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p063-tb.jpg b/18525-h/images/illus_p063-tb.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ac2ccb7 --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p063-tb.jpg diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p065-tb.jpg b/18525-h/images/illus_p065-tb.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d0b8d2c --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p065-tb.jpg diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p069-tb.jpg b/18525-h/images/illus_p069-tb.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..fd69103 --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p069-tb.jpg diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p081.png b/18525-h/images/illus_p081.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..5bd83bb --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p081.png diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p087.png b/18525-h/images/illus_p087.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a8c795a --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p087.png diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p091.png b/18525-h/images/illus_p091.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..53f3198 --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p091.png diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p101.png b/18525-h/images/illus_p101.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..6c28bd2 --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p101.png diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p107.png b/18525-h/images/illus_p107.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..19ac5dc --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p107.png diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p109.png b/18525-h/images/illus_p109.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..bcf2225 --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p109.png diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p111.png b/18525-h/images/illus_p111.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..0032bde --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p111.png diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p115.png b/18525-h/images/illus_p115.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d91cc1e --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p115.png diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p118-tb.jpg b/18525-h/images/illus_p118-tb.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..78bdf52 --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p118-tb.jpg diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p120-tb.jpg b/18525-h/images/illus_p120-tb.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..bc1d5e5 --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p120-tb.jpg diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p122.png b/18525-h/images/illus_p122.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..84c91b1 --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p122.png diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p124-tb.jpg b/18525-h/images/illus_p124-tb.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d05cbae --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p124-tb.jpg diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p126-tb.jpg b/18525-h/images/illus_p126-tb.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8078161 --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p126-tb.jpg diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p128-tb.jpg b/18525-h/images/illus_p128-tb.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..cbb81ba --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p128-tb.jpg diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p131-tb.jpg b/18525-h/images/illus_p131-tb.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..0dfcb34 --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p131-tb.jpg diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p135-tb.jpg b/18525-h/images/illus_p135-tb.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ec7e3a6 --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p135-tb.jpg diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p142.png b/18525-h/images/illus_p142.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c5e55e6 --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p142.png diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p147.png b/18525-h/images/illus_p147.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..97bb2c3 --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p147.png diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p151.png b/18525-h/images/illus_p151.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c60e8fe --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p151.png diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p155.png b/18525-h/images/illus_p155.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9e6a744 --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p155.png diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p159.png b/18525-h/images/illus_p159.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b2da582 --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p159.png diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p161.png b/18525-h/images/illus_p161.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7ecd3ae --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p161.png diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p173.png b/18525-h/images/illus_p173.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..702c449 --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p173.png diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p181.png b/18525-h/images/illus_p181.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..cc982c4 --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p181.png diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p185.png b/18525-h/images/illus_p185.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8333415 --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p185.png diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p191-tb.jpg b/18525-h/images/illus_p191-tb.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..0071d7f --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p191-tb.jpg diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p193-tb.jpg b/18525-h/images/illus_p193-tb.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..4a9df08 --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p193-tb.jpg diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p195-tb.jpg b/18525-h/images/illus_p195-tb.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..1056971 --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p195-tb.jpg diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p197-tb.jpg b/18525-h/images/illus_p197-tb.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b2c4d8b --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p197-tb.jpg diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p199.png b/18525-h/images/illus_p199.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..88038de --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p199.png diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p201-tb.jpg b/18525-h/images/illus_p201-tb.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..293194d --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p201-tb.jpg diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p203.png b/18525-h/images/illus_p203.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..faf2ce6 --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p203.png diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p206-tb.jpg b/18525-h/images/illus_p206-tb.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c13ee0e --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p206-tb.jpg diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p208-tb.jpg b/18525-h/images/illus_p208-tb.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3b9d285 --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p208-tb.jpg diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p210-tb.jpg b/18525-h/images/illus_p210-tb.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..afdf938 --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p210-tb.jpg diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p212-tb.jpg b/18525-h/images/illus_p212-tb.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..fe02366 --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p212-tb.jpg diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p215.png b/18525-h/images/illus_p215.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..f5534fa --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p215.png diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p219.png b/18525-h/images/illus_p219.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7272134 --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p219.png diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p221.png b/18525-h/images/illus_p221.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..61fd199 --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p221.png diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p225.png b/18525-h/images/illus_p225.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..38d0d67 --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p225.png diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p229-tb.jpg b/18525-h/images/illus_p229-tb.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..1e2e85b --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p229-tb.jpg diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p231-tb.jpg b/18525-h/images/illus_p231-tb.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..77e1a10 --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p231-tb.jpg diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p235.png b/18525-h/images/illus_p235.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9f924dc --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p235.png diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p235square.png b/18525-h/images/illus_p235square.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a46fa48 --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p235square.png diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p237eight.png b/18525-h/images/illus_p237eight.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..6450e25 --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p237eight.png diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p237overhand.png b/18525-h/images/illus_p237overhand.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..0f081bf --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p237overhand.png diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p239sheepshank.png b/18525-h/images/illus_p239sheepshank.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..1c29849 --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p239sheepshank.png diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p239underhand.png b/18525-h/images/illus_p239underhand.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7b8ca8b --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p239underhand.png diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p241cross.png b/18525-h/images/illus_p241cross.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..67f2c2c --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p241cross.png diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p241fisherman.png b/18525-h/images/illus_p241fisherman.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..45374de --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p241fisherman.png diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p241parcel.png b/18525-h/images/illus_p241parcel.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..10be93d --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p241parcel.png diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p243.png b/18525-h/images/illus_p243.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..2c73462 --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p243.png diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p245-tb.jpg b/18525-h/images/illus_p245-tb.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3210081 --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p245-tb.jpg diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p247.png b/18525-h/images/illus_p247.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c058fa3 --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p247.png diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p253.png b/18525-h/images/illus_p253.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c9b6ff9 --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p253.png diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p259.png b/18525-h/images/illus_p259.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3a0c89e --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p259.png diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p261.png b/18525-h/images/illus_p261.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..6d9f0f9 --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p261.png diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p262.png b/18525-h/images/illus_p262.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..63ebf09 --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p262.png diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p264.png b/18525-h/images/illus_p264.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..483760e --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p264.png diff --git a/18525-h/images/illus_p267.png b/18525-h/images/illus_p267.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..97a316f --- /dev/null +++ b/18525-h/images/illus_p267.png diff --git a/18525.txt b/18525.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d2dc754 --- /dev/null +++ b/18525.txt @@ -0,0 +1,7633 @@ +Project Gutenberg's On the Trail, by Lina Beard and Adelia Belle Beard + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: On the Trail + An Outdoor Book for Girls + +Author: Lina Beard and Adelia Belle Beard + +Release Date: June 7, 2006 [EBook #18525] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ON THE TRAIL *** + + + + +Produced by Audrey Longhurst, Emmy and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + + + + + + + + + + +On the Trail + +An Outdoor Book for Girls + +By +LINA BEARD + +AND + +ADELIA BELLE BEARD + +With Illustrations by the Authors + +NEW YORK + +Charles Scribner's Sons + +1915 + +COPYRIGHT, 1915, BY + +CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS + +Published June, 1915 + + TO ALL GIRLS + WHO LOVE THE LIFE OF THE OPEN + WE DEDICATE THIS BOOK + +[Illustration: Over-night camp. + +Fire notice is posted on tree.] + + + + +PRESENTATION + + +The joyous, exhilarating call of the wilderness and the forest camp is +surely and steadily penetrating through the barriers of brick, stone, +and concrete; through the more or less artificial life of town and city; +and the American girl is listening eagerly. It is awakening in her +longings for free, wholesome, and adventurous outdoor life, for the +innocent delights of nature-loving Thoreau and bird-loving Burroughs. +Sturdy, independent, self-reliant, she is now demanding outdoor books +that are genuine and filled with practical information; books that tell +how to do worth-while things, that teach real woodcraft and are not +adapted to the girl supposed to be afraid of a caterpillar or to shudder +at sight of a harmless snake. + +In answer to the demand, "On the Trail" has been written. The authors' +deep desire is to help girls respond to this new, insistent call by +pointing out to them the open trail. It is their hope and wish that +their girl readers may seek the charm of the wild and may find the same +happiness in the life of the open that the American boy has enjoyed +since the first settler built his little cabin on the shores of the New +World. To forward this object, the why and how, the where and when of +things of camp and trail have been embodied in this book. + +Thanks are due to Edward Cave, president and editor of _Recreation_, for +kindly allowing the use of some of his wild-life photographs. + + LINA BEARD, + ADELIA BELLE BEARD. + FLUSHING, N. Y., + March 16, 1915. + + + + +CONTENTS + + CHAPTER PAGE + I. TRAILING 3 + II. WOODCRAFT 21 + III. CAMPING 44 + IV. WHAT TO WEAR ON THE TRAIL 84 + V. OUTDOOR HANDICRAFT 106 + VI. MAKING FRIENDS WITH THE OUTDOOR FOLK 119 + VII. WILD FOOD ON THE TRAIL 138 + VIII. LITTLE FOES OF THE TRAILER 165 + IX. ON THE TRAIL WITH YOUR CAMERA 187 + X. ON AND IN THE WATER 205 + XI. USEFUL KNOTS AND HOW TO TIE THEM 233 + XII. ACCIDENTS 244 + XIII. CAMP FUN AND FROLICS 255 + XIV. HAPPY AND SANE SUNDAY IN CAMP 269 + + + + +ILLUSTRATIONS + + +Over-night camp _Frontispiece_ + + PAGE +One can generally pass around obstructions like this on the trail 5 + +Difficulties of the Adirondack trail 9 + +Blazing the trail by bending down and breaking branches 11 + +Returning to camp by the blazed trail 13 + +Footprints of animals 17 + +Footprints of animals 19 + +Ink impressions of leaves 23 + +Ink impressions of leaves 24 + +Ink impressions of leaves 25 + +Pitch-pine and cone 26 + +Sycamore leaf and fruit of sycamore 26 + +How to use the axe 29 + +The compass and the North Star 37 + +A permanent camp 49 + +Outdoor shelters 51 + +Dining-tent, handy racks, and log bedstead 53 + +A forest camp by the water 55 + +In camp 57 + +The bough-bed, the cook-fire, and the wall-tent 59 + +Soft wood 63 + +Hard wood 65 + +Bringing wood for the fire 69 + +Camp fires and camp sanitation 81 + +Trailers' outfits 87 + +The head-net and blanket-roll 91 + +Some things to carry and how to carry them 101 + +Handicraft in the woods 107 + +Outdoor dressing-table, camp-cupboard, hammock-frame, seat, + and pot-hook 109 + +Camp-chair, biscuit-stick, and blanket camp-bed 111 + +The birch-bark dish that will hold fluids. Details of making 115 + +A bear would rather be your friend than your enemy 118 + +Making friends with a ruffed grouse 120 + +Found on the trail 122 + +Timber wolves 124 + +Baby moose 126 + +Stalking wild birds 128 + +The fish-hawk will sometimes build near the ground 131 + +Antelopes of the western plains 135 + +Good food on the trail 143 + +Fruits found principally in the south and the middle west 147 + +Fruits found principally in the north and the middle west 151 + +Fruits common to most of the States 155 + +Hickory nuts, sweet and bitter 159 + +Nuts with soft shells. Beechnut and chestnut 161 + +Poisonous and non-poisonous snakes 173 + +Plants poison to the touch 181 + +Plants poison to the taste 185 + +The white birch-tree makes a fine background for the beaver 191 + +Blacktail deer snapped with a background of snow 193 + +The skunk 195 + +The porcupine stood in the shade but the background was light 197 + +Photographing a woodcock from ambush 199 + +The country through which you pass, with a trailer in the foreground 201 + +Method of protecting roots to keep plants fresh while you carry + them to camp for photographing 203 + +A rowboat is a safer craft than a canoe 206 + +Keep your body steady 208 + +Canoeing on placid waters 210 + +Bring your canoe up broadside to the shore 212 + +How to use the paddle and a flat-bottomed rowboat 215 + +The raft of logs 219 + +Primitive weaving in raft building 221 + +Learn to be at home in the water 225 + +For dinner 229 + +The veteran 231 + +Bends in knot tying 235 + +Figure eight knot 237 + +Overhand bow-line knot 237 + +Underhand bow-line knot 239 + +Sheepshank knot 239 + +Parcel slip-knot 241 + +Cross-tie parcel knot 241 + +Fisherman's knot 241 + +The halter, slip-knot, and hitching-tie 243 + +The fireman's lift 245 + +Aids in "first aid" 247 + +Restoring respiration 253 + +When darkness closes in 259 + +Wood-thrush 261 + +Yellow-throated vireo 262 + +Fire without matches 264 + +Fire without the bow 267 + + + + +ON THE TRAIL + + + + +CHAPTER I + +TRAILING + +=What the Outdoor World Can Do for Girls. How to Find the Trail and How +to Keep It= + + +There is a something in you, as in every one, every man, woman, girl, +and boy, that requires the tonic life of the wild. You may not know it, +many do not, but there is a part of your nature that only the wild can +reach, satisfy, and develop. The much-housed, overheated, overdressed, +and over-entertained life of most girls is artificial, and if one does +not turn away from and leave it for a while, one also becomes greatly +artificial and must go through life not knowing the joy, the strength, +the poise that real outdoor life can give. + +What is it about a true woodsman that instantly compels our respect, +that sets him apart from the men who might be of his class in village or +town and puts him in a class by himself, though he may be exteriorly +rough and have little or no book education? The real Adirondack or the +North Woods guide, alert, clean-limbed, clear-eyed, hard-muscled, +bearing his pack-basket or duffel-bag on his back, doing all the hard +work of the camp, never loses his poise or the simple dignity which he +shares with all the things of the wild. It is bred in him, is a part of +himself and the life he leads. He is as conscious of his superior +knowledge of the woods as an astronomer is of his knowledge of the +stars, and patiently tolerates the ignorance and awkwardness of the +"tenderfoot" from the city. Only a keen sense of humor can make this +toleration possible, for I have seen things done by a city-dweller at +camp that would enrage a woodsman, unless the irresistibly funny side of +it made him laugh his inward laugh that seldom reaches the surface. + +To live for a while in the wild strengthens the muscles of your mind as +well as of your body. Flabby thoughts and flabby muscles depart together +and are replaced by enthusiasm and vigor of purpose, by strength of limb +and chest and back. To _have_ seems not so desirable as to _be_. When +you have once come into sympathy with this world of the wild--which +holds our cultivated, artificial world in the hollow of its hand and +gives it life--new joy, good, wholesome, heartfelt joy, will well up +within you. New and absorbing interests will claim your attention. You +will breathe deeper, stand straighter. The small, petty things of life +will lose their seeming importance and great things will look larger and +infinitely more worth while. You will know that the woods, the fields, +the streams and great waters bear wonderful messages for you, and, +little by little, you will learn to read them. + +The majority of people who visit the up-to-date hotels of the +Adirondacks, which their wily proprietors call camps, may think they see +the wild and are living in it. But for them it is only a big +picnic-ground through which they rush with unseeing eyes and whose +cloisters they invade with unfeeling hearts, seemingly for the one +purpose of building a fire, cooking their lunch, eating it, and then +hurrying back to the comforts of the hotel and the gayety of hotel life. + +[Illustration: One can generally pass around obstructions like this on +the trail.] + +At their careless and noisy approach the forest suddenly withdraws +itself into its deep reserve and reveals no secrets. It is as if they +entered an empty house and passed through deserted rooms, but all the +time the intruders are stealthily watched by unseen, hostile, or +frightened eyes. Every form of moving life is stilled and magically +fades into its background. The tawny rabbit halts amid the dry leaves of +a fallen tree. No one sees it. The sinuous weasel slips silently under a +rock by the side of the trail and is unnoticed. The mother grouse +crouches low amid the underbrush and her little ones follow her example, +but the careless company has no time to observe and drifts quickly by. +Only the irrepressible red squirrel might be seen, but isn't, when he +loses his balance and drops to a lower branch in his efforts to miss +nothing of the excitement of the invasion. + +This is not romance, it is truth. To think sentimentally about nature, +to sit by a babbling brook and try to put your supposed feelings into +verse, will not help you to know the wild. The only way to cultivate the +sympathy and understanding which will enable you to feel its +heart-beats, is to go to it humbly, ready to see the wonders it can +show; ready to appreciate and love its beauties and ready to meet on +friendly and cordial terms the animal life whose home it is. The wild +world is, indeed, a wonderful world; how wonderful and interesting we +learn only by degrees and actual experience. It is free, but not +lawless; to enter it fully we must obey these laws which are slowly and +silently impressed upon us. It is a wholesome, life-giving, inspiring +world, and when you have learned to conform to its rules you are met on +every hand by friendly messengers to guide you and teach you the ways of +the wild: wild birds, wild fruits and plants, and gentle, furtive, wild +animals. You cannot put their messages into words, but you can feel +them; and then, suddenly, you no longer care for soft cushions and rugs, +for shaded lamps, dainty fare and finery, for paved streets and concrete +walks. You want to plant your feet upon the earth in its natural state, +however rugged or boggy it may be. You want your cushions to be of the +soft moss-beds of the piny woods, and, with the unparalleled sauce of a +healthy, hearty appetite, you want to eat your dinner out of doors, +cooked over the outdoor fire, and to drink water from a birch-bark cup, +brought cool and dripping from the bubbling spring. + +You want, oh! how you want to sleep on a springy bed of balsam boughs, +wrapped in soft, warm, woollen blankets with the sweet night air of all +outdoors to breathe while you sleep. You want your flower-garden, not +with great and gorgeous masses of bloom in evident, orderly beds, but +keeping always charming surprises for unexpected times and in +unsuspected places. You want the flowers that grow without your help in +ways you have not planned; that hold the enchantment of the wilderness. +Some people are born with this love for the wild, some attain it, but in +either case the joy is there, and to find it you must seek it. Your +chosen trail may lead through the primeval forests or into the great +western deserts or plains; or it may reach only left-over bits of the +wild which can be found at no great distance from home. Even a bit of +meadow or woodland, even an uncultivated field on the hilltop, will give +you a taste of the wild; and if you strike the trail in the right spirit +you will find upon arrival that these remnants of the wild world have +much to show and to teach you. There are the sky, the clouds, the +lungfuls of pure air, the growing things which send their roots where +they will and not in a man-ordered way. There is the wild life that +obeys no man's law: the insects, the birds, and small four-footed +animals. On all sides you will find evidences of wild life if you will +look for it. Here you may make camp for a day and enjoy that day as much +as if it were one of many in a several weeks' camping trip. + +However, this is not to be a book of glittering generalities but, as far +as it can be made, one of practical helpfulness in outdoor life; +therefore when you are told to strike the trail you must also be told +how to do it. + + +=When You Strike the Trail= + +For any journey, by rail or by boat, one has a general idea of the +direction to be taken, the character of the land or water to be crossed, +and of what one will find at the end. So it should be in striking the +trail. Learn all you can about the path you are to follow. Whether it is +plain or obscure, wet or dry; where it leads; and its length, measured +more by time than by actual miles. A smooth, even trail of five miles +will not consume the time and strength that must be expended upon a +trail of half that length which leads over uneven ground, varied by bogs +and obstructed by rocks and fallen trees, or a trail that is all up-hill +climbing. If you are a novice and accustomed to walking only over smooth +and level ground, you must allow more time for covering the distance +than an experienced person would require and must count upon the +expenditure of more strength, because your feet are not trained to the +wilderness paths with their pitfalls and traps for the unwary, and every +nerve and muscle will be strained to secure a safe foothold amid the +tangled roots, on the slippery, moss-covered logs, over precipitous +rocks that lie in your path. It will take time to pick your way over +boggy places where the water oozes up through the thin, loamy soil as +through a sponge; and experience alone will teach you which hummock of +grass or moss will make a safe stepping-place and will not sink beneath +your weight and soak your feet with hidden water. Do not scorn to learn +all you can about the trail you are to take, although your questions may +call forth superior smiles. It is not that you hesitate to encounter +difficulties, but that you may prepare for them. In unknown regions take +a responsible guide with you, unless the trail is short, easily +followed, and a frequented one. Do not go alone through lonely places; +and, being on the trail, keep it and try no explorations of your own, at +least not until you are quite familiar with the country and the ways of +the wild. + +[Illustration: Difficulties of the Adirondack trail. + +Facsimile of drawing made by a trailer (not the author) after a day in +the wilds of an Adirondack forest. Not a good drawing, perhaps, but a +good illustration.] + + +=Blazing the Trail= + +A woodsman usually blazes his trail by chipping with his axe the trees +he passes, leaving white scars on their trunks, and to follow such a +trail you stand at your first tree until you see the blaze on the next, +then go to that and look for the one farther on; going in this way from +tree to tree you keep the trail though it may, underfoot, be overgrown +and indistinguishable. + +If you must make a trail of your own, blaze it as you go by bending down +and breaking branches of trees, underbrush, and bushes. Let the broken +branches be on the side of bush or tree in the direction you are going, +but bent down away from that side, or toward the bush, so that the +lighter underside of the leaves will show and make a plain trail. Make +these signs conspicuous and close together, for in returning, a dozen +feet without the broken branch will sometimes confuse you, especially as +everything has a different look when seen from the opposite side. By +this same token it is a wise precaution to look back frequently as you +go and impress the homeward-bound landmarks on your memory. If in your +wanderings you have branched off and made ineffectual or blind trails +which lead nowhere, and, in returning to camp, you are led astray by one +of them, do not leave the false trail and strike out to make a new one, +but turn back and follow the false trail to its beginning, for it must +lead to the true trail again. _Don't lose sight of your broken +branches._ + +[Illustration: Blazing the trail by bending down and breaking branches.] + +If you carry a hatchet or small axe you can make a permanent trail by +blazing the trees as the woodsmen do. Kephart advises blazing in this +way: make one blaze on the side of the tree away from the camp and two +blazes on the side toward the camp. Then when you return you look for +the _one_ blaze. In leaving camp again to follow the same trail, you +look for the _two_ blazes. If you should lose the trail and reach it +again you will know to a certainty which direction to take, for two +blazes mean _camp on this side_; one blaze, _away from camp on this +side_. + + +=To Know an Animal Trail= + +To know an animal trail from one made by men is quite important. It is +easy to be led astray by animal trails, for they are often well defined +and, in some cases, well beaten. To the uninitiated the trails will +appear the same, but there is a difference which, in a recent number of +_Field and Stream_, Mr. Arthur Rice defines very clearly in this way: +"Men step _on_ things. Animals step _over_ or around things." Then again +an animal trail frequently passes under bushes and low branches of trees +where men would cut or break their way through. To follow an animal +trail is to be led sometimes to water, often to a bog or swamp, at times +to the animal's den, which in the case of a bear might not be exactly +pleasant. + +[Illustration: Returning to camp by the blazed trail. + +_Note the blazed trees._] + + +=Lost in the Woods= + +We were in the wilderness of an Adirondack forest making camp for the +day and wanted to see the beaver-dam which, we were told, was on the +edge of a near-by lake. The guide was busy cooking dinner and we would +not wait for his leisure, but leaving the rest of the party, we started +off confidently, just two of us, down the perfectly plain trail. For a +short distance there was a beaten path, then, suddenly, the trail came +to an abrupt end. We looked this side and that. No trail, no appearance +of there ever having been one. With a careless wave of his arm, the +guide had said: "Keep in that direction." "That" being to the left, to +the left we therefore turned and stormed our way through thicket and +bramble, breaking branches as we went. Sliding down declivities, +scrambling over fallen trees, dipping beneath low-hung branches, we +finally came out upon the shore of the lake and found that we had struck +the exact spot where the beaver-dam was located. + +It was only a short distance from camp and it had not taken us long to +make it, but when we turned back we warmly welcomed the sight of our +blazed trail, for all else was strange and unfamiliar. Going there had +been glimpses of the water now and then to guide us, returning we had no +landmarks. Even my sense of direction, usually to be relied on and upon +which I had been tempted to depend solely, seemed to play me false when +we reached a place where our blazing was lost sight of. The twilight +stillness of the great forest enveloped us; there was no sign of our +camp, no sound of voices. A few steps to our left the ground fell away +in a steep precipice which, in going, we had passed unnoticed and which, +for the moment, seemed to obstruct our way. Then turning to the right we +saw a streak of light through the trees that looked, at first, like +water where we felt sure no water could be if we were on the right path; +but we soon recognized this as smoke kept in a low cloud by the +trees--the smoke of our camp-fire. That was our beacon, and we were soon +on the trail again and back in camp. This is not told as an adventure, +but to illustrate the fact that without a well-blazed trail it is easier +to become lost in a strange forest than to find one's way. + +You may strike the trail with the one object in view of reaching your +destination as quickly as possible. This will help you to become agile +and sure-footed, to cover long distances in a short time, but it will +not allow of much observation until your mind has become alert and your +eyes trained to see quickly the things of the forests and plains, and to +read their signs correctly. Unless there is necessity for haste, it is +better to take more time and look about you as you go. To hurry over the +trail is to lose much that is of interest and to pass by unseeingly +things of great beauty. When you are new to the trail and must hurry, +you are intent only on what is just before you--usually the feet of your +guide--or if you raise your eyes to glance ahead, you notice objects +simply as things to be reached and passed as quickly as possible. +Unhurried trailing will repay you by showing you what the world of the +wild contains. + +Walking slowly you can realize the solemn stillness of the forest, can +take in the effect of the gray light which enfolds all things like a +veil of mystery. You can stop to examine the tiny-leafed, creeping vines +that cover the ground like moss and the structure of the soft mosses +with fronds like ferns. You can catch the jewel-like gleam of the wood +flowers. You can breathe deeply and rejoice in the perfume of the balsam +and pine. You can rest at intervals and wait quietly for evidences of +the animal life that you know is lurking, unseen, all around you; and +you can begin to perceive the protecting spirit of the wild that hovers +over all. + +To walk securely, as the woodsmen walk, without tripping, stumbling, or +slipping, use the woodsmen's method of planting the entire foot on the +ground, with toes straight ahead, not turned out. If you put your heel +down first, while crossing on a slippery log as in ordinary walking, the +natural result will be a fall. With your entire foot as a base upon +which to rest, the body is more easily balanced and the foot less likely +to slip. When people slip and fall on the ice, it is because the edge of +the heel strikes the ice first and slides. The whole foot on the ice +would not slip in the same way, and very often not at all. + +Trailing does not consist merely in walking along a path or in making +one for yourself. It has a larger meaning than that and embraces various +lines of outdoor life, while it always presupposes movement of some +kind. In one sense going on the trail means going on the hunt. You may +go on the trail for birds, for animals, for insects, plants, or flowers. +You may trail a party of friends ahead of you, or follow a deer to its +drinking-place; and in all these cases you must look for the signs of +that which you seek. + + +=Footprints or Tracks= + +In trailing animals look for footprints in soft earth, sand, or snow. +The hind foot of the muskrat will leave a print in the mud like that of +a little hand, and with it will be the fore-foot print, showing but four +short fingers, and generally the streaks where the hard tail drags +behind. Fig. 4 shows what these look like. If you are familiar with the +dog track you will know something about the footprints of the fox, wolf, +and coyote, for they are much alike. Fig. 9 gives a clean track of the +fox, but often there is the imprint of hairs between and around the +toes. A wolf track is larger and is like Fig. 8. The footprint of a deer +shows the cloven hoof, with a difference between the buck's and the +doe's. The doe's toes are pointed and, when not spread, the track is +almost heart-shaped (Fig. 7), while the buck has blunter, more rounded +toes, like Fig. 10. The two round lobes are at the back of the foot, +the other end points in the direction the deer has taken. Sometimes you +will find deer tracks with the toes spread wide apart. That means the +animal has been running. All animals' toes spread more or less when they +run. A bear track is like Fig. 11, but a large bear often leaves other +evidences of his presence than his footprints. He will frequently turn a +big log over or tear one open in his search for ants. He will stand on +his hind legs and gnaw a hole in a dead tree or tall stump, and a +bee-tree will bear the marks of his climbing on its trunk. It is +interesting to find a tree with the scars of bruin's feet, made +prominent by small knobs where his claws have sunk into the bark. Each +scar swells and stands out like one of his toes. When you see bark +scraped off the trees some distance from the ground, you may be sure +that a horned animal has passed that way. Where the trees are not far +apart a wide-horned animal, like the bull moose, scrapes the bark with +his antlers as he passes. + +[Illustration: Footprints of animals. + +1 Caribou + +2 Mink + +3 Red Squirrel + +4 Fore foot of Muskrat, Hind foot of Muskrat, Tail of Muskrat + +5 Fisher + +6 Canada Lynx] + +The cat-like lynx leaves a cat-like track (Fig. 6), which shows no print +of the claws, and the mink's track is like Fig. 2. Rabbits' tracks are +two large oblongs, then two almost round marks. The oblongs are the +print of the large hind feet, which, with the peculiar gait of the +rabbit, always come first. The large, hind-feet tracks point the +direction the animal has taken. Fig. 1 is the track of the caribou, and +shows the print of the dew-claws, which are the two little toes up high +at the back of the foot. It is when the earth is soft and the foot sinks +in deeply that the dew-claws leave a print, or perhaps when the foot +spreads wide in running. + +[Illustration: Footprints of animals. + +7 Doe + +8 Wolf + +9 Fox + +10 Buck + +11 Bear + +12 Sheep] + +Fig. 3 is the print of the foot of a red squirrel. Fig. 5 is the +fisher's track, and Fig. 12 is that of a sheep. Pig tracks are much like +those of sheep, but wider. When you have learned to recognize the +varying freshness of tracks you will know how far ahead the animal +probably is. Other tracks you will learn as you become more familiar +with the animals, and you will also be able to identify the tracks of +the wild birds. + + + + +CHAPTER II + +WOODCRAFT + +=Trees. Practical Use of Compass. Direction of Wind. Star Guiding. What +to Do When Lost in the Woods. How to Chop Wood. How to Fell Trees.= + + +=Trees= + +While on the trail you will find a knowledge of trees most useful, and +you should be able to recognize different species by their manner of +growth, their bark and foliage. + + +=Balsam-Fir= + +One of the most important trees for the trailer to know is the +balsam-fir, for of this the best of outdoor beds are made. In shape the +tree is like our Christmas-trees--in fact, many Christmas-trees are +balsam-fir. + +The sweet, aromatic perfume of the balsam needles is a great aid in +identifying it. The branches are flat and the needles appear to grow +from the sides of the stem. The little twist at the base of the needle +causes it to seem to grow merely in the straight, outstanding row on +each side of the stem; look closely and you will see the twist. + +The needles are flat and short, hardly one inch in length; they are +grooved along the top and the ends are decidedly blunt; in color they +are dark bluish-green on the upper side and silvery-white underneath. +The bark is gray, and you will find little gummy blisters on the +tree-trunk. From these the healing Canada balsam is obtained. The short +cones, often not over two inches in length, the longest seldom more than +four inches, stand erect on top of the small branches, and when young +are of a purplish color. + +From Maine to Minnesota the balsam-fir grows in damp woods and mountain +bogs, and you will find it southward along the Alleghany Mountains from +Pennsylvania to North Carolina. + + +=Spruce= + +The spruce, red, black, and white, differs in many respects from the +balsam-fir: the needles are sharp-pointed, not blunt, and instead of +being flat like the balsam-fir, they are four-sided and cover the +branchlet on all sides, causing it to appear rounded or bushy and not +flat. The spruce-gum sought by many is found in the seams of the bark, +which, unlike the smooth balsam-fir, is scaly and of a brown color. +Early spring is the time to look for spruce-gum. Spruce is a soft wood, +splits readily and is good for the frames and ribs of boats, also for +paddles and oars, and the bark makes a covering for temporary shelters. + + +=Hemlock= + +This tree is good for thatching a lean-to when balsam-fir is not to be +found, and its bark can be used in the way of shingles. + +The cones are small and hang down from the branches; they do not stand +up alert like those of the balsam-fir, nor are they purple in color, +being rather of a bright red-brown, and when very young, tan color. The +wood is not easy to split--don't try it, or your hatchet will suffer in +consequence and the pieces will be twisted as a usual thing. The +southern variety, however, often splits straight. + +[Illustration: Horse-chestnut. + +Sugar-maple. + +Alder. + +Ink impressions of leaves.] + +[Illustration: Balsam-Fir. + +Spruce. + +Hemlock.] + +[Illustration: White oak. + +Linden. + +Ink impressions of leaves.] + +[Illustration: Pitch-pine and cone. + +Sycamore leaf and fruit of sycamore. + +(The buttonball.)] + + +=Pine= + +The pine-tree accommodates itself to almost any kind of soil, high, low, +moist, or dry, often growing along the edge of the water. + +The gray pine is sometimes used for making the skeleton of a canoe or +other boats, and the white pine for the skin or covering of the skeleton +boat; but for you the pine will probably be most useful in furnishing +pine-knots, and its soft wood for kindling your outdoor fire. + +The trees mentioned abound in our northern forests. The birch in its +different varieties is there also, but rarely ventures into the densest +woods, preferring to remain near and on its outskirts. However, none of +these trees confine themselves strictly to one locality. + +Oaks, hickory, chestnut, maples, and sycamore are among the useful woods +for campers. + +Learn the quality and nature of the different trees. Each variety is +distinct from the others: some woods are easy to split, such as spruce, +chestnut, balsam-fir, etc.; some very strong, as locust, oak, hickory, +sugar-maple, etc.; then there are the hard and soft woods mentioned in +fire-making. + +When you once understand the characteristics of the different woods, and +their special qualifications, becoming familiar with only two or three +varieties at a time, the trees will be able to help you according to +their special powers. You would not go to a musician to have a portrait +painted, for while the musician might give you wonderful music he would +be helpless as far as painting a picture was concerned, and so it is +with trees. They cannot all give the same thing; if you want soft wood, +it is wasting your time to go to hardwood trees; they cannot give you +what they do not possess. Know the possibilities of trees and they will +not fail you. + + +=How to Chop Wood= + +Trailing and camping both mean wood-chopping to some extent for +shelters, fires, etc., and the girl of to-day should understand, as did +the girls of our pioneer families, how to handle properly a hatchet, or +in this case we will make it a belt axe. There is a small hatchet +modelled after the Daniel Boone tomahawk, generally known as the "camp +axe." It is thicker, narrower, and has a sharper edge than an ordinary +hatchet. It comes of a size to wear on the belt and must be securely +protected by a well-fitted strong leather sheath; otherwise it will +endanger not only the life of the girl who carries it, but also the +lives of her companions. With the camp axe (hatchet) you can cut down +small trees, chop fire-wood, blaze trees, drive down pegs or stakes, and +chop kindling-wood. Every time you want to use the hatchet take the +precaution to examine it thoroughly and reassure yourself that the tool +is in good condition and that the _head_ is _on firm_ and _tight_; be +positive of this. + +Great caution must be taken when chopping kindling-wood, as often +serious accidents occur through ignorance or carelessness. Do not raise +one end of a stick up on a log with the other end down on the ground and +then strike the centre of the stick a sharp blow with the sharp edge of +your hatchet; the stick will break, but one end usually flies up with +considerable force and very often strikes the eye of the worker, ruining +the sight forever. Take the blunt end of your hatchet and do not give a +very hard blow on the stick you wish to break; exert only force +sufficient to break it partially, merely enough to enable you to finish +the work with your hands and possibly one knee. It may require a little +more time, but your eyes will be unharmed, which makes it worth while. +Often children use a heavy stone to break kindling-wood, with no +disastrous results that I know of. The heavy stone does not seem to +cause the wood to fly upward. + +[Illustration: Stand on the log when you chop it. + +13 14 15 16 + +17 For safety. + +The stump will be like this on top when the tree is down. + +How to use the axe.] + + +=How to Chop Logs= + +Practise on small, slender logs, chopping them in short lengths until +you understand something of the woodsman's art of "logging up a tree"; +then and not until then should you attempt to cut heavier wood. + +If you are sure-footed and absolutely certain that you can stand firmly +on the log without teetering or swaying when leaning over, do so. You +can then chop one side of the log half-way through and turn around and +chop the other side until the second notch or "kerf" is cut through to +the first one on the opposite side, and the two pieces fall apart. While +working stand on the log with feet wide apart and chop the _side_ of the +log (not the top) on the space in front between your feet. Make your +first chip quite long, and have it equal in length the diameter of the +log. If the chip is short, the opening of the kerf will be narrow and +your hatchet will become wedged, obliging you to double your labor by +enlarging the kerf. Greater progress will be made by chopping diagonally +across the grain of the wood, and the work will be easier. It is +difficult to cut squarely against the grain and this is always avoided +when possible. After you have cut the first chip in logging up a tree, +chop on the base of the chip, swinging your hatchet from the opposite +direction, and the chip will fall to the ground. + +Having successfully chopped off one piece of the log, it will be a +simple matter to cut off more. Chop slowly, easily, and surely. Don't be +in a hurry and exhaust yourself; only a novice overexerts and tries to +make a deep cut with the hatchet. + +Be careful of the blade of your hatchet; keep it free from the ground +when chopping, to avoid striking snags, stones, or other things liable +to nick or dull the edge. + + +=How to Fell a Tree= + +Content yourself with chopping down only slender trees, mere saplings, +at first, and as you acquire skill, slightly heavier trees can be +felled. Begin in the right way with your very first efforts and follow +the woodsman's method. + +Having selected the tree you desire to cut down, determine in which +direction you want it to fall and mark that side, but first make sure +that when falling, the tree will not lodge in another one near by or +drop on one of the camp shelters. See that the way is free of hindrance +before cutting the tree, also _clear the way_ for the swing of your +extended _hatchet_. If there are obstacles, such as vines, bushes, limbs +of other trees, or rocks, which your hatchet might strike as you raise +and lower it while at work, clear them all away, making a generous open +space on all sides, overhead, on the right and left side, and below the +swing of the hatchet. Take no chance of having an accident, as would +occur should the hatchet become entangled or broken. + +You may have noticed that the top surface of most stumps has a +splintered ridge across its centre, and on one side of the ridge the +wood is lower than on the other; this is because of the manner in which +a woodsman fells a tree. If he wants the tree to fall toward the west he +marks the west side of the trunk; then he marks the top and bottom of +the space he intends chopping out for the first kerf or notch (Fig. 13, +_A_ and _B_), making the length of space a trifle longer than one-half +of the tree diameter. The kerf is chopped out by cutting first from the +top _A_, then from the bottom _B_ (Fig. 14). When the first kerf is +finished and cut half-way through the tree, space for the kerf on the +opposite side of the tree is marked a few inches higher than the first +one (Fig. 15, _C_ and _D_) and then it also is cut (Fig. 16). + +After you have chopped the two kerfs in a tree, you will know when it is +about to fall by the creaking and the slight movement of its top. Step +to _one side_ of the falling tree, never behind or in front of it; +either of the last two ways would probably mean death: if in front, the +tree would fall on you, and if at the back, you would probably be +terribly injured if not killed, as trees often kick backward with +tremendous force as they go down; so be on your guard, keep cool, and +deliberately step to the side of the tree and watch it fall. + +Choose a quiet day, when there is no wind, for tree-felling. You cannot +control the wind, and it may control your tree. + +Never allow your hatchet to lie on the ground, a menace to every one at +camp, but have a particular log or stump and always strike the blade in +this wood. Leave your hatchet there, where it will not be injured, can +do no harm, and you will always know where to find it (Fig. 17). + + +=Etiquette of the Wild= + +Translated this means "_hands off_." The unwritten law of the woods is +that personal property cached in trees, underbrush, beneath stones, or +hidden underground must never be _taken_, _borrowed_, _used_, or +_molested_. + +Canoes and oars will often be discovered left by owners, sometimes +fastened at the water's edge, again suspended from trees, and the +temptation to borrow may be strong, but remember such an act would be +dishonorable and against the rules that govern the outdoor world. + +Provisions, tools, or other articles found in the forests should be +respected and allowed to remain where they are. It is customary for +campers to cache their belongings with the assurance that forest +etiquette will be held inviolate and their goods remain unmolested. + +Every one has the privilege of examining and enjoying the beauties of +mosses, berries, and wild flowers, but do not take these treasures from +their homes to die and be thrown aside. Love them well enough to let +them stay where they are for others also to enjoy, unless you need +specimens for some important special study. + +A man who had always lived in the Adirondack forests, and at present is +proprietor of an Adirondack hotel, recently reforested many acres of his +wooded wild lands by planting through the forests little young trees, +some not over one foot high, and his indignation was great when he +discovered that many of his guests when off on tramps returned laden +with these baby trees, which were easily pulled up by the roots because +so lately planted. + + +=Finding Your Way by Natural Signs and the Compass= + +An important phase of woodcraft is the ability to find your way in the +wilderness by means of natural signs as well as the compass. If, +however, you do not know at what point of the compass from you the camp +lies, the signs can be of no avail. Having this knowledge, the signs +will be invaluable. + +_Get your bearings before leaving camp._ Do not depend upon any member +of the party, but know for yourself. + +If you have a map giving the topography of land surrounding the +camping-grounds, consult it. Burn into your memory the direction _from_ +camp of outlying landmarks, those near and those as far off as you can +see in all directions. The morning you leave camp, ascertain the +direction of the wind and notice particularly the sun and shadows. If +it is early morning, face the sun and you will be looking toward the +east. Stretch out both arms at your sides and point with your +index-fingers; your right finger will point to the south, your left to +the north, and your back will be toward the west. What landmarks do you +see east of the camp? South? North? West? And from what point of the +compass does the wind blow? If it comes from the west and you trail +eastward, the wind will strike your back going away from camp and should +strike your face returning, provided its direction does not change. +Again, if you go east, your camp will lie west of you, and your homeward +path must be westward. Consult your compass and know exactly which +direction you take when leaving camp, and blaze your trail as you go, +looking backward frequently to see how landmarks should appear as you +face them returning. + +With all these friends to guide you, first, the map; second, sun; third, +shadows; fourth, wind; fifth, compass; sixth, your bent-twig blazing, +there will be little, if any, danger of being lost. But you must +constantly keep on the alert and refer frequently to these guides, +especially when deflecting from the course first taken after leaving +camp. At every turning, stop and take your bearings anew; you cannot be +too careful. + +These signs are for daylight; at night the North Star will be your +guide. + + +=Sunlight and Shadow= + +Bearing in mind that the sun rises in the east and sets in the west, it +will be comparatively easy to keep your right course by consulting the +sun. A fair idea may also be gained of the time of day by the length of +shadows, if you remember that shadows are long in the morning and +continue to grow shorter until midday, when they again begin to +lengthen, growing longer and longer until night. + +To find the direction of the sun on a cloudy day, hold a flat splinter +or your knife blade vertically, so that it is absolutely straight up and +down. Place the point of the blade on your thumb-nail, watch-case, or +other glossy surface; then turn the knife or splinter around until the +full shadow of the flat of blade or splinter falls on the bright +surface, telling the location of the sun. + +An open spot where the sun can cast a clear shadow, and an hour when the +sun is not immediately overhead, will give best results. + + +=Wind= + +The wind generally blows in the same direction all day, and if you learn +to understand its ways, the wind will help you keep the right trail. +Make a practise of testing the direction of the wind every morning. +Notice the leaves on bush and tree, in what direction they move. Place a +few bits of paper on your open hand and watch in which way the wind +carries them; if there is no paper, try the test with dry leaves, grass, +or anything light and easily carried by the breeze. Smoke will also show +the direction of the wind. + +When the wind is very faint, put your finger in your mouth, wet it on +all sides, and hold it up; the side on which the wind blows will feel +cool and tell from what quarter the wind comes: if on the east side of +your finger, the wind blows from the east, and so on. Keep testing the +direction of the wind as you trail, and if at any time it cools a +different side of the finger, you will know that you are not walking in +the same direction as when you left camp and must turn until the wet +finger tells you which way to go. The wind is a good guide so long as +it keeps blowing in the same direction as when you left camp. + + +=Use of Compass= + +Should you be on the trail and sudden storm-clouds appear, the sun +cannot help you find your way; the shadows have gone. Moss on +tree-trunks is not an infallible guide and you must turn to the compass +to show the way, but unless you understand its language you will not +know what it is telling you. Learn the language before going to camp; it +is not difficult. + +Hold the compass out in a _level position_ directly in front of you; be +_sure_ it is level; then decide to go north. Consult the compass and +ascertain in which direction the north lies. The compass needle points +directly north with the north end of the needle; this end is usually +black, sometimes pearl. Let your eye follow straight along the line +pointed out by the needle; as you look ahead select a landmark--tree, +rock, pond, or whatever may lie in that direction. Choose an object +quite a distance off on the imaginary line, go directly toward it, and +when intervening objects obscure the landmark, refer to your compass. If +you have turned from the pathway north, face around and readjust your +steps in the right direction. Do not let over two minutes pass without +making sure by the compass that you are going on the right path, going +directly north. + +[Illustration: Mariner's Compass.] + +[Illustration: Common Compass.] + +[Illustration: Big Dipper. + +Little Dipper. + +The compass and the North Star.] + +Practise using the compass for a guide until you understand it; have +faith in it and you may fearlessly trust to its guidance. Try going +according to various points of the compass: suppose you wish to go +southeast, the compass tells you this as plainly as the north; try it. +Naturally, if you go to the southeast away from camp, returning will +be in exactly the opposite direction, and coming back to camp you must +walk northwest. After learning to go in a straight line, guided entirely +by the compass, try a zigzag path. A group of girls will find it good +sport to practise trailing with the compass, and they will at the same +time learn how to avoid being lost and how to help others find their +way. It is possible to + + +=Make a Compass of Your Watch= + +Besides keeping you company with its friendly nearness, its ticking and +its ready answers to your questions regarding the time, a watch in the +woods and fields has another use, for it can be used as a compass. It +will show just where the south is, then by turning your back on the +south you face the north, and on your right is the east and on your left +the west. These are the rules: + +With your watch in a horizontal position point the hour-hand to the sun, +and if before noon, half-way between the hour hand and 12 is due south. +If it is afternoon calculate the opposite way. For instance, if at 8 A. +M. you point the hour-hand to the sun, 10 will point to the south, for +that is half-way between 8 and 12. If at 2 P. M. you point the hour-hand +to the sun, look back to 12, and half the distance will be at 1, +therefore 1 points to the south. + +An easy way to get the direction of the sun without looking directly at +it is by means of the shadow of a straight, slender stick or grass stem +thrown on the horizontal face of your watch. Hold the stick upright with +the lower end touching the watch at the _point_ of the hour-hand, then +turn the watch until the shadow of the stick falls along the hour-hand. +This will point the hand undeviatingly toward the sun. + + +=Mountain Climbing= + +The campers should go together to climb the mountain, never one girl +alone. + +Before starting, find a strong stick to use as a staff; stow away some +luncheon in one of your pockets; see that your camera is in perfect +order, ready to use at a moment's notice; that your water-proof +match-box is in your pocket filled with safety matches, your +pocket-knife safe with you, also watch and compass, and that the tin cup +is on your belt. Your whistle being always hung around your neck will, +of course, be there as usual. + +When you are ready, stand still and look about you once more to make +sure of your bearings; close your eyes and tell yourself exactly what +you have seen. After leaving camp and arriving at the foot of the +mountain, take your bearings anew; then look up ahead and select a +certain spot which you wish to reach on the upward trail. Having this +definite object in view will help in making better progress and save +your walking around in a circle, which is always the tendency when in a +strange place and intervening trees or elevations obstruct the view, or +when not sure of the way and trying to find it. + +Begin blazing the trail at your first step up the mountain side. Even +though there may be a trail already, you cannot be sure that it will +continue; it is much safer to depend upon your own blazing. + +Often in trailing along the mountain you will find huge rocks and steep +depressions, or small lakes which you cannot cross over but must go +around, and in so doing change your direction, perhaps strike off at an +angle. Before making the detour, search out some large landmark, readily +recognized after reaching the other side of the obstruction, a tall, +peculiarly shaped tree or other natural feature. Now is the time to try +earnestly to keep the landmark in sight as long as possible and to be +able to recognize it when you see it again. Watch your compass and the +sun that you may continue in the right direction after circling the +obstruction. Go slow in climbing, take your time and don't get out of +breath. + +On many mountains the possibility of unexpected fogs exists, and safety +requires that the party be linked together with a soft rope; the same +precaution should be taken when the trail is very rough, steep, and +rocky. The camper at the head of the line should tie the rope in a +bow-line around her waist, with knot on left side, and eight or ten feet +from her the next girl should link herself to the rope in the same +manner; then another girl, and another, until the entire party is on the +rope. + +The leader starts on the trail and the others, holding fast to their +staffs, carefully follow, each one cautious to keep the rope stretching +out in front of her rather taut; then if one girl stumbles the others +brace themselves and keep her from falling. + +When descending the mountain, be careful to get a firm footing. Instead +of facing the trail, it is safer to turn sideways, so that you can place +the entire foot down and not risk the toes only, or the heels. Often +coming down either a steep hill or a mountain is more difficult than +going up. + + +=Lost in the Woods= + +It is not at all probable that you will lose your way while on the +trail, but if you should find yourself lost in the woods or in the open, +the first thing to do is to remember that a brave girl does not get into +a panic and so rob herself of judgment and the power to think clearly +and act quickly. Believe firmly that you are _safe_, then sit down +quietly and think out a plan of finding your way. Try to remember from +which direction you have come and to recall landmarks. If you cannot do +this, do not be frightened and do not allow any thought of possible harm +to get a foothold in your mind. If there is a hill near, from which you +can see any distance, climb that and get an outlook. You may be able to +see the smoke of your camp-fire, which, after all, cannot be so far +away. You may find a landmark that you do remember. If you see nothing +which you can recognize, make a signal flag of your handkerchief and put +it up high, as high as you can. Your friends will be looking for that. +Then give the lost signal, one long blast with your whistle, and after a +short pause follow with two more blasts in quick succession. If you have +no whistle shout, loud and long, then wait a while, keeping eyes and +ears open to see and hear answering signals. If there is none, again +shout the lost signal and continue the calls every little while for +quite a time. Another call for help is the ascending smoke of three +fires. This, of course, is for daylight. Build your fires some distance +apart, twenty-five feet or more, that the smoke from each may be clearly +seen alone, not mingled with the rest. Aim to create _smoke_ rather than +flame; a slender column of smoke can be seen a long distance, therefore +the fire need not be large. Choose for your fires as clear a space and +as high an elevation as can be found, and in the relief and excitement +of rescue _do not forget to extinguish every spark_ before leaving the +ground. + +If you decide to keep moving, blaze your trail as you go, so that it may +be followed and also that you may know if you cross it again yourself. +You can blaze the trail by breaking or bending small branches on trees +and bushes, or by small strips torn from your handkerchief and tied +conspicuously on twigs. If you are where there are no trees or +undergrowth, build small piles of stones or little hills of earth at +intervals to mark your trail. + +If night overtakes you, look for the _North Star_. That will help if you +know at what point of the compass your camp lies, and if you remember +whether your course in leaving camp was to the north, south, east, or +west, you can calculate pretty accurately whether the camp is to the +north, south, east, or west of you. + +In case the night must be spent where you are, go about making a +shelter, prepare as comfortable a bed as possible, and do _not_ be +afraid. You will probably be found before morning, and you must be found +in good physical condition. + +If you can kindle a fire, do it; that will help to guide your friends +and will ward off wild creatures that might startle you. Keep your fire +going all night and take care that it does not spread. + +It is better to remain quietly in one spot all night than to wander +about in the dark and perhaps stumble upon dangerous places. If, when +you find the points of the compass by the _North Star_, you mark them +plainly on a stone or fallen log, they will be a ready guide for you as +soon as daylight breaks. + +The last word on this subject is: _Do not be afraid_. + + +=To Find Your Way by the North Star= + +At night you will have the same reliable guide that has ever been the +mariner's friend, and if you do not know this star guide, lose no time +in finding it. + +Polaris or pole-star is known generally as North Star, and this star is +most important to the outdoor girl. At all times the North Star marks +the north, its position never changes, and seeing that star and _knowing +it_, you will always know the points of the compass. Face the North +Star and you face the north. At your right hand is the east, at your +left hand is the west, and at your back is the south. + +The North Star does not look very important because it is not very +bright or very large, and were it not for the help of the Big Dipper, +which every one knows, the North Star would not be easy to find. The +diagram given on page 37 shows the relative position of the stars and +will help you to find the North Star. The two stars forming the front +side of the bowl of the Great Dipper point almost in a direct line to +the North Star, which is the last one in the handle of the Little +Dipper, or the tail of the Little Bear, which means the same thing. + + + + +CHAPTER III + +CAMPING + +=Camp Sites. Water. Wood. Tents. Shelters. Lean-Tos. Fires. Cooking. +Safety and Protection. Sanitation. Camp Spirit.= + + +=Information= + +Whether your camp is to be for one day, one week, or a longer period of +time, the first question to be decided is: "Where shall we go?" If you +know of no suitable spot, inquire of friends, and even if they have not +personally enjoyed the delights of camping and sleeping in the open, one +or more of them will probably know of some acquaintance who will be glad +to give the information. Write to the various newspapers, magazines, +railroads, and outdoor societies for suggestions. The Geological Survey +of the United States at Washington, D. C., will furnish maps giving +location and extent of forests and water-ways, also location and +character of roads; you can obtain the maps for almost any part of every +State. Most public automobile houses supply maps of any desired region. +Send letters of inquiry to these sources of information, and in this way +you will probably learn of many "just the right place" localities. +Select a number of desirable addresses, investigate them, and make your +own choice of location, remembering that the first three essentials for +a camp are good ground, water, and wood; the rest is easy, for these +three form the foundation for camping. + + +=Location= + +Wherever you go, choose a dry spot, preferably in an open space near +wooded land. Avoid hollows where the water will run into your shelters +in wet weather; let your camp be so located that in case of rain the +water will drain down away from it. Remember this or you may find your +camp afloat upon a temporary lake or swamp should a storm arise. + + +=Water= + +Pure drinking water you _must_ have, it is of _vital_ importance, so be +sure to pitch your camp within near walking distance of a good spring, a +securely covered well, or other supply of pure water. + +Henry David Thoreau's method of obtaining clear water from a pond whose +surface was covered with leaves, etc., was to push his pail, without +tipping it in the least, straight down under the water until the top +edge was below the surface several inches, then quickly lift it out; in +doing this the overflow would carry off all leaves and twigs, leaving +the remaining water in the pail clear and good. But you must first be +sure that the pond contains pure water under the floating debris. + +Always be cautious about drinking water from rivers, streams, ponds, and +lakes though they may appear ever so clear and tempting, for the purity +is by no means assured, and to drink from these sources may cause +serious illness. Unless you are absolutely sure that water is free from +impurities, _boil it_; then it will be safe to use for drinking and +cooking. + +Next in importance to good water is good fire-wood and woodsy material +for shelters and beds. Bear this in mind when deciding upon the site for +your camp. + + +=Companions= + +Because your companions can make or mar the happiness in camp, it is +safer to have in your party only those girls who will take kindly to the +camp spirit of friendly helpfulness, those always ready to laugh and +treat discomforts as jokes. This means that though fun-loving and full +of buoyancy and life, each girl will willingly do her part and assume +her share of responsibilities. + + +=Safeguarding= + +You should also count among your companions two or more camp +directors--possibly mothers of the girls, teachers, or older friends of +whom the parents approve--who will enter heartily into all phases of +outdoor life and while really being one with you in sport and work, will +at the same time keep careful oversight and assure protection. + +Avoid localities where there is a possibility of tramps or undesirable +characters of any description, and do not wander from camp alone or +unaccompanied by one of the directors. If your camp is in the forest it +will be the part of wisdom to secure also a reliable guide who knows the +forest ways. + + +=The Start= + +The day before you leave for your camping-ground, have everything in +readiness that there may be no delay when it is time to go. Be prompt, +for you want to play fair and not keep the other girls waiting, causing +them to lose valuable time. + +The stimulating exhilaration which comes with trailing through the +forests to camp, the keen delight of adventure, the charm of the +wilderness, the freedom and wonder of living in the woods, all make for +the health and happiness of the girl camper, and once experienced, ever +after with the advent of spring comes the call of the untrammelled life +in the big outdoors. + + +=The One-Day Camp= + +Even a one-day camp fills the hours with more genuine lasting enjoyment +than girls can find in other ways; there is a charm about it which +clings in your memory, making a joy, later, of the mere thought and +telling of the event. + +That every moment of the day may be filled full of enjoyment for all, +have a good programme, some definite, well-thought-out plan of +activities and sports previously prepared, and if possible let every +girl know beforehand just what she is to do when all arrive at camp. + +With an older person in charge, the party could be divided, according to +its size, into different groups, and as soon as the grounds are reached +the groups should begin the fun of preparing for the camp dinner. + +If the party consists of eight, two can gather fire-wood, two build the +fireplace, two unpack the outfits, placing the provisions and cooking +utensils in order conveniently near the fire, and two can bring the +drinking water and cooking water. + +Provisions and cooking utensils should be divided into as many packs as +there are campers, and every camper carry a pack. Count in the outfit +for each one a tin cup, preferably with open handle for wearing over +belt. + +In the one-day camp very few cooking utensils are needed; they may +consist of two tin pails, one for drinking water, the other for boiling +water, one coffee-pot for cocoa, one frying-pan for flapjacks or eggs, +one large kitchen knife for general use, and one large spoon for +stirring batter and cocoa. + + +=Camp Dinner= + +Counting on a keen outdoor appetite for wholesome substantials, the +provision list includes only plain fare, such as: Lamb chops, or thinly +sliced bacon packed in oil-paper. Dry cocoa to which sugar has been +added, carried in can or stout paper bag. One can of condensed milk, +unsweetened, to be diluted with water according to directions on can. +Butter in baking-powder can. Dry flour mixed with salt and baking-powder +in required proportions for flapjacks, packed in strong paper bag and +carried in one of the tin pails. Bread in loaf wrapped in wax-paper. +Potatoes washed and dried ready to cook, packed in paper bag or carried +in second tin pail. Pepper and salt each sealed in separate marked +envelopes; when needed, perforate paper with big pin and use envelopes +as shakers. One egg for batter, buried in the flour to prevent breaking, +and one small can of creamy maple sugar, soft enough to spread on hot +cakes, or a can of ordinary maple syrup. + + +=The Clean-Up= + +While resting after dinner is the time for story-telling; then, before +taking part in sports of any kind, every particle of debris, even small +bits of egg-shell and paper, should be gathered up and burned until not +a vestige remains. To be "good sports," thought must be taken for the +next comers and the camping-ground left in perfect order, absolutely +free from litter or debris of any kind. + +When breaking camp be _sure_ to soak the fire with water again and +again. It is criminal to leave any coals or even a spark of the fire +smouldering. + +Be _positive_ that the _fire is out_. + +[Illustration: A permanent camp.] + + +=Shelters and Tents. Lean-To= + +For a fixed camp of longer or shorter duration your home will be under +the shelter of boughs, logs, or canvas. The home of green boughs is +considered by many the ideal of camp shelters. This you can make for +yourself. It is a simple little two-sided, slanting roof and back and +open-front shed, made of the material of the woods and generally known +as a lean-to, sometimes as Baker tent when of canvas. + +There are three ways of erecting the front framework. + +The first is to find two trees standing about seven feet apart with +convenient branches down low enough to support the horizontal top cross +pole when laid in the crotches. Lacking the proper trees, the second +method is to get two strong, straight, forked poles of green wood and +drive them down into the ground deep enough to make them stand firm and +upright by themselves the required distance apart. The third way is to +reinforce the uprights by shorter forked stakes driven firmly into the +ground and braced against the uprights, but this is not often necessary. + +Having your uprights in place, extending above ground five feet or more, +lay a top pole across, fitting its ends into the forked tops of the +uprights. Against this top pole rest five or six slender poles at +regular distances apart, one end of each against the top pole and the +other end on the ground slanting outward and backward sufficiently to +give a good slope and allow sleeping space beneath. At right angles to +the slanting poles, lay across them other poles, using the natural pegs +or stumps left on the slanting poles by lopped-off branches, as braces +to hold the cross poles in place (Fig. 18). + +[Illustration: 18 + +21 19 + +20 + +Outdoor shelters.] + +When building the frame be sure to place the slanting poles so that +the little stumps left on them will turn _up_ and not down, that they +may hold the cross poles. Try to have spaces between cross poles as +regular as possible. A log may be rolled up against the ground ends of +the slanting poles to prevent their slipping, though this is rarely +necessary, for they stand firm as a rule. + +You can cover the frame with bark and then thatch it, which will render +the shelter better able to withstand a storm, or you may omit the bark, +using only the thatch as a covering. Put on very thick, this should make +the lean-to rain-proof. + +With small tips of branches from trees, preferably balsam, hemlock, or +other evergreens, begin thatching your shelter. Commence at the bottom +of the lean-to, and hook on the thatch branches close together all the +way across the lowest cross pole, using the stumps of these thatch +branches as hooks to hold the thatch in place on the cross pole (Fig. +19). Overlap the lower thatches as you work along the next higher cross +pole, like shingles on a house, and continue in this way, overlapping +each succeeding cross pole with an upper row of thatch until the top is +reached. Fill in the sides thick with branches, boughs, or even small, +thick trees. + +The lean-to frame can be covered with your poncho in case of necessity, +but boughs are much better. + + +=Permanent Camp. Lean-To. Open Camp= + +Another kind of lean-to intended for a permanent camp is in general use +throughout the Adirondacks. It is built of substantial good-sized logs +put together log-cabin fashion, with open front, slanting roof, and low +back (Fig. 20). This shelter has usually a board floor raised a few +inches above the ground and covered thick, at least a foot deep, with +balsam. Overspread with blankets, the soft floor forms a comfortable +bed. A log across the front of the floor keeps the balsam in place and +forms a seat for the campers in the evenings when gathered for a social +time before the fire. The roof of the log lean-to can be either of +boards or well-thatched poles which have first been overlaid with bark. + +[Illustration: 23 24 + +22 + +Dining-tent, handy racks, and log bedstead.] + +One of the most comfortable and delightful of real forest camps which I +have ever been in, was a permanent camp in the Adirondacks owned and run +by one of the best of Adirondack guides. The camp consisted of several +shelters and two big permanent fireplaces. + +Over the ground space for the large tent outlined with logs was a strong +substantial rustic frame, built of material at hand in the forest and +intended to last many seasons (Fig. 21). The shelter boasted of two +springy, woodsy beds, made of slender logs laid crosswise and raised +some inches from the ground. These slender logs slanted down slightly +from head to foot of the bed, and the edges of the bed were built high +enough to hold the deep thick filling of balsam tips, so generously deep +as to do away with all consciousness of the underlying slender-log +foundation (Fig. 22). Each bed was wide enough for two girls and the +shelter ample to accommodate comfortably four campers. There could have +been one more bed, when the tent would have sheltered six girls. + +In the late fall, the guide removed the water-proof tent covering and +kept it in a safe, dry place until needed, leaving the beds and bare +tent frame standing. + +There was a smaller tent and also a lean-to in this camp. + +[Illustration: A forest camp by the water.] + +The dining-table, contrived of logs and boards, was sheltered by a +square of canvas on a rustic frame (Fig. 23). The camp dishes of white +enamel ware were kept in a wooden box, nailed to a close-by tree; in +this box the guide had put shelves, resting them on wooden cleats. The +cupboard had a door that shut tight and fastened securely to keep out +the little wild creatures of the woods. Pots, kettles, frying-pan, etc., +hung on the stubs of a slender tree where branches and top had been +lopped off (Fig. 24). The sealed foods were stowed away in a box +cupboard, and canned goods were cached in a cave-like spot under a huge +rock, with opening secured by stones. + +The walls of the substantial fireplace, fully two feet high, were of big +stones, the centre filled in part-way with earth, and the cook-fire was +made on top of the earth, so there was not the slightest danger of the +fire spreading. + +The soft, warm, cheerful-colored camp blankets when not in use were +stored carefully under cover of a water-proof tent-like storehouse, with +the canvas sides dropped from the ridge-pole, both sides and flaps +securely fastened and the entire storehouse made proof against +intrusion. + +This camp was located near a lake in the mountain forest and its charm +was indescribably delightful. + + +=Tents= + +Tents in almost endless variety of shapes and sizes are manufactured and +sold by camp-outfitters and sporting-goods shops. The tents range from +small canoe-tents, accommodating one person only, to the large +wall-tents for four or more people. When using tents, difficulties of +transportation and extra weight can be overcome by having tent poles and +pegs cut in the forest. + +If you purchase tents, full instructions for erection go with them. +Write for illustrated catalogues to various outfitters and look the +books over carefully before buying. Your choice will depend upon your +party, length of stay, and location of camp. + +You may be able to secure a discarded army-tent that has never been +used, is in good condition, and has been condemned merely for some +unimportant blemish. Such tents are very serviceable and can be +purchased at Government auctions, or from dealers who themselves have +bought them from the Government. + +[Illustration: In camp.] + +A large square seven by seven feet, or more, of balloon silk, +water-proof cloth, or even heavy unbleached sheeting, will be found most +useful in camp. Sew strong tape strings at the four corners and at +intervals along the sides for tying to shelters, etc. The water-proof +cloth will serve as a drop-curtain in front of the lean-to during a hard +storm, or as carpet cloth over ground of shelter, also as an extra +shelter, either lean-to or tent style; any of the three materials can do +duty as windbreak, fly to shelter, or dining canopy, and may be used in +other ways. + + +=Camp-Beds= + +To derive joy and strength from your outing it is of serious importance +that you sleep well every night while at camp, and your camp-bed must be +comfortable to insure a good night's rest. + +A bough-bed is one of the joys of the forest when it is _well made_, and +to put it together properly will require about half an hour's time, but +the delight of sleeping on a soft balsam bed perfumed with the pungent +odors of the balsam will well repay for the time expended. + + +[Illustration: 25 26 + +The bough-bed, the cook-fire, and the wall-tent.] + + +=Bough-Bed= + +Tips of balsam broken off with your fingers about fourteen inches long +make the best of beds, but hemlock, spruce, and other evergreens can be +used; if they are not obtainable, the fan-like branches from other trees +may take their place. Of these you will need a large quantity, in +order to have the bed springy and soft. Always place the outdoor bed +with the head well under cover and foot toward the opening of shelter, +or if without shelter, toward the fire. Make the bed by arranging the +branches shingle-like in _very_ thick overlapping rows, convex side up, +directly on the ground with _thick end_ of stems _toward_ the _foot_. +Push these ends into the ground so that the tips will be raised +slantingly up from the earth; make the rows which will come under the +hips extra thick and springy. Continue placing the layers in this manner +until the space for single or double bed, as the case may be, is covered +with the first layer of your green mattress. Over it make another layer +of branches, reversing the ends of these tips from those underneath by +pushing the _thick ends_ of branches of this top layer slantingly into +the under layer _toward_ the _head_ of the bed with tips toward the +foot. Make more layers, until the bed is about two feet thick (Fig. 25); +then cover the mattress thus made with your poncho, rubber side down, +and on top spread one of the sleeping blankets, using the other one as a +cover. Be sure to allow plenty of time for this work and have the bed +dry and soft. + + +=Bag-Bed= + +When the camp is located where there is no material for a bough-bed, +each girl can carry with her a bag three feet wide and six and one-half +feet long, made of strong cloth, ticking, soft khaki, or like material, +to be filled with leaves, grass, or other browse found on or near the +camp-grounds. Such a mattress made up with poncho and blankets is very +satisfactory, but it must be well filled, so that when you lie on the +mattress it will not mash flat and hard. + + +=Cot-Bed= + +For an entire summer camp army cots which fold for packing are good and +very comfortable with a doubled, thick quilt placed on top for a +mattress. + +The sporting-goods stores show a great variety of other beds, cots, and +sleeping-bags, and a line to them will bring illustrated catalogues, or, +if in the city, you can call and see the goods. + +Any of the beds I have described, however, can be used to advantage, and +I heartily endorse the _well-made_ bough-bed, especially if of balsam. + + +=Pillows= + +Make a bag one-half yard square of brown linen or cotton cloth, and when +you reach camp, gather the best browse you can find for filling, but be +careful about having the pillow too full; keep it soft and comfortable. +If there is no browse, use clean underwear in its place. Fasten the open +end of the bag together with large-sized patent dress snappers. + +One of the pleasantest phases of a season's camping are the little side +trips for overnight. You hit the trail that leads to the chosen spot +located some two or three, perhaps six or seven, miles distant; a place +absolutely dry, where you can enjoy the fun of sleeping on the ground +without shelter, having merely the starry sky for a canopy. Each girl +can select the spot where she is to sleep and free it from all twigs, +stones, etc., as the smallest and most insignificant of these will rob +her of sleep and make the night most uncomfortable. When the space is +smooth mark the spot where the shoulders rest when lying down and +another spot immediately under the hips, then dig a hollow for each to +fit in easily; cover the sleeping space with poncho, rubber side down, +and over this lay a folded blanket for a mattress, using the second +blanket as a cover. Your sleep will then probably be sound and +refreshing. + + +=Guards= + +Establish watchers, for this temporary camp, in relays to keep guard +through the night and care for the fire, not allowing it to spread, grow +too hot, or die down and go out. + +If there are eight in the party, the first two, starting in at 10 P. M., +will keep vigil until 12 midnight. These may chance to see a porcupine +or other small wild animal, but the little creatures will not come too +near as long as your camp-fire is burning. The next two watchers will be +on duty until 2 A. M., and will doubtless hear, if not see, some of the +wild life of the forest. The third couple's turn lasts until 4 A. M.; +then the last two will be awakened in time to see the sun rise, listen +to the twittering and singing of the wild birds, and possibly catch a +glimpse of wild deer. With 6 A. M. comes broad daylight, and the +ever-to-be-remembered night in the open is past and gone. + +These side trips bring you into closer touch with nature, quicken your +love for, and a desire to know more of, the wild; and, much to the +delight of the campers keeping guard through the hours of the night, +there comes a keen sense of the unusual, of novel experience, of +strangeness and adventure. + +[Illustration: Soft wood.] + + +=Exercise= + +While wholesome camping calls for sufficient physical exercise to cause +a girl to be blissfully tired at night, and yet awaken refreshed and +full of energy the next morning with a good appetite for breakfast, +until you become accustomed to the outdoor life, it is best to curb your +ambition to outdo the other girls in strength and endurance. It is best +not to overtax yourself by travelling too far on a long trail at one +stretch, or by lifting too heavy a log, stone, or other weight. + + +=The Camp-Fire= + +The outdoor fire in camp bespeaks cheer, comfort, and possibilities for +a hot dinner, all of which the camper appreciates. + + +=How to Build a Fire= + +Choose an open space, if possible, for your fire. Beware of having it +under tree branches, too near a tent, or in any other place that might +prove dangerous. Start your fire with the tinder nearest at hand, dry +leaves, ferns, twigs, cones, birch bark, or pine-knot slivers. As the +tinder begins to burn, add kindling-wood of larger size, always +remembering that the air must circulate under and upward through the +kindling; no fire can live without air any more than you can live +without breathing. Smother a person and he will die, smother a fire and +it will die. + +[Illustration: Hard wood.] + +Soft woods are best to use after lighting the tinder; they ignite easily +and burn quickly, such as pine, spruce, alder, birch, soft maple, +balsam-fir, and others. When the kindling is blazing put on still +heavier wood, until you have a good, steady fire. Hard wood is better +than soft when the fire is well going; it burns longer and can usually +be depended upon for a reliable fire, not sending out sparks or +sputtering, as do many of the soft woods, but burning well and giving a +fine bed of hot coals. The tree belonging exclusively to America, and +which is the best of the hardwoods, comes first on the hardwood list. +This is _hickory_. Pecan, chestnut-oak, black birch, basket-oaks, white +birch, maple, dogwood, beech, red and yellow birch, ash, and apple wood +when obtainable are excellent. + + +=Cook-Fire= + +Make the cook-fire _small_ and _hot_; then you can work over it in +comfort and not scorch both hands and face when trying to get near +enough to cook, as would be the case if the fire were large. + +When in a hurry use dry bark as wood for the cook-fire. Hemlock, pine, +hickory, and other bark make a hot fire in a short time, and water will +boil quickly over a bark fire. + + +=Log-Cabin Fire= + +Start this fire with two good-sized short sticks or logs. Place them +about one foot apart parallel to each other. At each end across these +lay two smaller sticks, and in the hollow square formed by the four +sticks, put the tinder of cones, birch bark, or dry leaves. + +Across the two upper sticks and over the tinder, make a grate by laying +slender kindling sticks across from and resting on top of the two upper +large sticks. Over the grate, at right angles to the sticks forming it, +place more sticks of larger size. Continue in this way, building the +log-cabin fire until the structure is one foot or so high, each layer +being placed at right angles to the one beneath it. The fire must be +lighted from beneath in the pile of tinder. I learned this method when +on the Pacific slope. The fire burns quickly, and the log-cabin plan is +a good one to follow when heating the bean hole, as the fire can be +built over the hole, and in burning the red-hot coals will fall down +into it, or the fire can be built directly in the hole; both ways are +used by campers. + + +=Fire in the Rain= + +To build a fire in the rain with no dry wood in sight seems a difficult +problem, but keep cheerful, hum your favorite tune, and look for a +pine-knot or birch bark and an old dead stump or log. In the centre of +the dead wood you will find dry wood; dig it out and, after starting the +fire with either birch bark or pine-knot, use the dry wood as kindling. +When it begins to burn, add larger pieces of wood, and soon the fire +will grow strong enough to burn wet wood. If there happens to be a big +rock in your camp, build your fire on the sheltered side and directly +against the stone, which will act as a windbreak and keep the driving +rain from extinguishing the fire. A slightly shelving bank would also +form a shelter for it. A pine-knot is always a good friend to the girl +camper, both in dry and wet weather, but is especially friendly when it +rains and everything is dripping wet. + +You will find pine-knots in wooded sections where pine-trees grow; or, +if you are located near water where there are no trees, look for +pine-knots in driftwood washed ashore. When secured cut thin slices down +part way all around the elongated knot and circle it with many layers of +shavings until the knot somewhat resembles a toy tree. The inside will +be absolutely dry, and this branching knot will prove reliable and start +your fire without fail. Birch bark will start a fire even when the bark +is damp, and it is one of the best things you can have as a starter for +an outdoor, rainy-day fire. + +Take your cue from the forest guides, and while in the woods always +carry some dry birch bark in your pocket for a fire in case of rain. + + +=Camp Fireplace= + +One way to make the outdoor fireplace is to lay two _green_ logs side by +side on the ground in a narrow V shape, but open at both ends; only a +few inches at one end, a foot or more at the other. The fire is built +between the logs, and the frying-pan and pail of water, resting on both +logs, bridge across the fire. Should the widest space between the logs +be needed, place two slender green logs at right angles across the V +logs, and have these short top cross logs near enough together to hold +the frying-pans set on them (Fig. 26). + +When there are no green logs, build the fireplace with three rectangular +sides of stone, open front, and make the fire in the centre; the pots +and pans rest across the fire on the stones. + +If neither stones nor logs are available, dig a circle of fresh earth as +a safeguard and have the fire in its centre. Here you will need two +strong, forked-top stakes driven down into the ground directly opposite +each other, one on each side of the circle. Rest the end of a stout +green stick in the forked tops of the stakes, and use it to hang pots +and pails from when cooking. A fire can also be safeguarded with a +circle of stones placed close together. Another method of outdoor +cooking may be seen on page 81, where leaning stakes are used from which +to hang cooking utensils over the fire. + +One more caution about possibilities of causing forest fire. Terrible +wide-spread fires have resulted from what was supposed to be an +extinguished outdoor fire. Do not trust it, but when you are sure the +camp-fire is out, pour on more water over the fire and all around the +unburned edge of surrounding ground; then throw on fresh earth until the +fire space is covered. Be always on the safe side. Tack up on a tree +in the camp, where all must see it, a copy of the state laws regarding +forest fires, as shown in photograph frontispiece. + +[Illustration: Bringing wood for the fire.] + +On forest lands much of the ground is deep with tangled rootlets and +fibres mixed in with the mould, and a fire may be smouldering down +underneath, where you cannot see it. _Have a care._ + +The permanent-camp fireplace, built to do service for several seasons, +is usually of big, heavy, _green_ logs, stones, and earth. The logs, +about three and one-half feet long, are built log-cabin fashion, some +twenty-eight inches high, with all crevices filled in and firmly padded +with earth and stones. Big stones are anchored securely along the top of +the earth-covered log sides and back of the fireplace, raising these +higher than the front. The space inside the walled fireplace is very +nearly filled up with earth, and the fire is built on this earth. +Surfaces of logs which may have been left exposed where the fire is to +be made are safeguarded with earth (Fig. 27). + +Such a fireplace is big, substantial, firm, and lasting. Many of them +may be seen in the Adirondacks. They usually face the camp shelter, but +are located at a safe distance, fully two yards, from it. Fires built in +these are generally used as social cheer-fires, but you can have the +cheer-fire even though the substantial fireplace be _non est_, if in the +evening you pile more wood on the cook-fire, making it large enough for +all to gather around and have a good time, telling stories, laughing, +talking, and singing. + +An excellent rule in camp is to have always on hand _plenty_ of +_fire-wood_. Replenish the reserve stock every day as inroads are made +upon it, and have some sort of shelter or covering where the wood will +be kept dry and ready for immediate use. + + +=Camp Cooking. Provisions= + +In the woods one is generally hungry except immediately after a good +meal, and provisions and cooking are of vital interest to the camper. +The list of essentials is not very long and, when the camp is a +permanent one, non-essentials may be added to the larder with advantage. + +Bread of some kind will form part of every meal, and a few loaves +freshly baked can be taken to camp to start with while you are getting +settled. + +The quickest bread to cook is the delectable flapjack, and it is quite +exciting to toss it in the air, see it turn over and catch it again--if +you can. + + +=Flapjacks= + +Mix dry flour, baking-powder, and salt together, 1 good teaspoonful of +Royal baking-powder to every 2 cups of flour, and 1 level teaspoonful of +salt to 1 quart (4 cups) of flour. To make the batter, beat 1 egg and +add 1-1/2 cups of milk, or 1 cup of milk and 1/2 cup of water; +unsweetened condensed milk diluted according to directions on can may be +used. Carefully and gradually stir in enough of the flour you have +prepared to make a creamy batter, be sure it is smooth and without +lumps; then stir in 1 heaping teaspoonful of sugar, better still +molasses, to make the cakes brown. Grease the frying-pan with a piece of +fat pork or bacon, have the pan hot, and, with a large spoon or a cup, +ladle out the batter into the pan, forming three small cakes to be +turned by a knife, or one large cake to be turned by tossing. Use the +knife to lift the edges of the cakes as they cook, and when you see them +a golden brown, turn quickly. Or, if the cake is large, loosen it; then +lift the pan and quickly toss the cake up into the air in such a way +that it will turn over and land safely, brown side up, on the pan. +Unless you are skilled in tossing flapjacks, don't risk wasting the cake +by having it fall on the ground or in the fire, but confine your efforts +to the small, knife-turned cakes. Serve them "piping hot," and if there +are no plates, each camper can deftly and quickly roll her flapjack into +cylinder form of many layers and daintily and comfortably eat it while +holding the roll between forefinger and thumb. + +Keep the frying-pan well greased while cooking the cakes, rubbing the +pan with grease each time before pouring in fresh batter. + +Flapjacks are good with butter, delicious with creamy maple-sugar soft +enough to spread smoothly over the butter. The sugar comes in cans. +Ordinary maple-syrup can be used, but is apt to drip over the edges if +the cake is held in the hand. + +Well-cooked cold rice mixed with the batter will give a delicate +griddle-cake and make a change from the regular flapjack. + + +=Biscuits= + +Biscuits are more easily made than raised bread and so are used largely +in its place while in camp. The proportions of flour and baking-powder +are the same as for flapjacks. To 4 cups of flour mix 2 teaspoonfuls of +Royal baking-powder and 1 level teaspoonful of salt; add shortening +about the size of an egg, either lard or drippings. Divide the +shortening into small bits and, using the tips of your fingers, rub it +well into the dry flour just prepared; then gradually stir in cold water +to make a soft dough, barely stiff enough to be rolled out 3/4 inch +thick on bread-board, clean flat stone, or large, smooth piece of +flattened bark. Whichever is used must be well floured, as must also +the rolling-pin and biscuit cutter. A clean glass bottle or smooth round +stick may be used as rolling-pin, and the cutter can be a baking-powder +can, or the biscuits may be cut square, or 4 inches long and 2 inches +wide with a knife. The dough may also be shaped into a loaf 3/4 inch +thick and baked in a pan by planting the pan in a bed of hot coals, +covering it with another pan or some substitute, and placing a deep +layer of hot coals all over the cover. The biscuits should bake in about +fifteen minutes. For a hurry meal each camper can take a strip of dough, +wind it spirally around a peeled thick stick, which has first been +heated, and cook her own spiral biscuit by holding it over the fire and +constantly turning the stick. Biscuits, in common with everything cooked +over a hot wood-fire, need constant watching that they may not burn. +Test them with a clean splinter of wood; thrust it into the biscuit and +if no dough clings to the wood the biscuits are done. + + +=Johnny-Cake= + +Served hot, split open and buttered, these Kentucky johnny-cakes with a +cup of good coffee make a fine, hearty breakfast, very satisfying and +good. + +Allow 1/2 cup of corn-meal for each person, and to every 4 cups of meal +add 1 teaspoonful of salt, mix well; then pour water, which is _boiling +hard_, gradually into the meal, stirring constantly to avoid having any +lumps. When the consistency is like soft mush, have ready a frying-pan +almost full of _hot_ drippings or lard, dip your hands into cold water +to enable you to handle the hot dough, and, taking up enough corn-meal +dough to make a _large_-sized biscuit, pat it in your hands into a +3/4-inch-thick cake and gently drop it into the hot fat; immediately +make another cake, drop it into the fat, and continue until the +frying-pan is full. As soon as one johnny-cake browns on the lower side +turn it over, remove each cake from the fat as soon as done, and serve +as they cook. + +Corn-meal must be thoroughly scalded with boiling water when making any +kind of corn bread in order to have the bread soft and not dry and +"chaffy." + +For baked corn bread add 2 full teaspoons of baking-powder and stir in 2 +eggs, after 4 cups of meal and 1 teaspoonful of salt have been +thoroughly scalded and allowed to cool a little. Pour this corn-meal +dough into a pan which has been generously greased, and bake. + +Corn-meal needs a hot oven and takes longer to bake than wheat-flour +biscuits. + + +=Corn-Meal Mush= + +Corn-meal mush does not absolutely require fresh cream or milk when +served. It is good eaten with butter and very nourishing. Many like it +with maple-syrup or common molasses. + +Time is required to make well-cooked mush; at least one hour will be +necessary. To 2 quarts of boiling, bubbling water add 1 teaspoonful of +salt, and very slowly, little by little, add 2 cups of corn-meal, +stirring constantly and not allowing the water to cease boiling. Do not +stop stirring until the mush has cooked about ten minutes. It may then +be placed higher up from the fire, where it will not scorch, and +_boiling_ water added from time to time as needed to keep the mush of +right consistency. The cold mush may be made into a tempting dish, if +sliced 1/2-inch thick and fried brown in pork fat. Many cold cooked +cereals can be treated in the same way; sprinkled with flour these will +brown better. + + +=Kentucky Bread= + +Kentucky bread is made of flour, salt, and water. It is generally known +as beaten biscuit. Mix 2 scant teaspoonfuls of salt with 1 quart of +flour, add enough cold water to make a _stiff_, smooth dough and knead, +pull, and pound the dough until it blisters; the longer it is worked and +beaten the better. Roll out very thin, cut round or into squares and +bake. These biscuits may be quickly made, are simple and wholesome. + + +=Cocoa= + +Good cocoa may be made by substituting cold milk and cold water for hot. +Follow directions on the can as to proportion, and add the cold liquids +after the cocoa is mixed to a smooth paste; then boil. Either +unsweetened condensed milk or milk powder can take the place of fresh +milk. + + +=Coffee= + +For every camper allow 1 tablespoonful of ground coffee, then 1 extra +spoonful for the pot. Put the dry coffee into the coffee-pot, and to +settle it add a crumbled egg-shell; then pour in a little cold water and +stir all together; when there are no egg-shells use merely cold water. +Add 1 cupful of cold water for each camper, and 2 for the pot, set the +coffee-pot over the fire and let it boil for a few moments, take it from +the fire and pour into the spout a little cold water, then place the +coffee where it will keep hot--not cook, but settle. + + +=Tea= + +Allow 1 scant teaspoonful of tea for each person, scald the teapot, +measure the tea into the pot, and pour in as many cups of _boiling_ +water as there are spoonfuls of tea, adding an extra cupful for the pot. +_Never_ let _tea boil_. + + +=Boiled Potatoes= + +Wash potatoes, cut out any blemish, and put them on to cook in cold +water over the fire. They are much better boiled while wearing their +jackets. Allow from one-half to three-quarters of an hour for boiling, +test them with a sliver of wood that will pierce through the centre when +the potato is done. When cooked pour off the boiling water, set off the +fire to one side where they will keep hot, and raise one edge of the lid +to allow the steam to escape. Serve while _very_ hot. + + +=Baked Potatoes= + +Wrap each potato in wet leaves and place them all on hot ashes that lie +over hot coals, put more hot ashes on top of the potatoes, and over the +ashes place a deep bed of red-hot coals. It will require about forty +minutes or more for potatoes to bake. Take one out when you think they +should be done; if soft enough to yield to the pressure when squeezed +between thumb and finger, the potato is cooked. Choose potatoes as near +of a size as possible; then all will be baked to a turn at the same +time. + + +=Bean Soup and Baked Beans= + +Look over one quart of dried beans, take out all bits of foreign matter +and injured beans; then wash the beans in several waters and put them to +soak overnight in fresh water. Next morning scald 1-1/2 pounds salt +pork, scrape it well, rinse, and with 1 teaspoonful of dried onion or +half of a fresh one, put on to boil with the beans in cold water. Cook +slowly for several hours. When the water boils low, add more boiling +water and boil until the beans are soft. + +To make soup, dip out a heaping cupful of the boiled beans, mash them to +a paste, then pour the liquid from the boiled beans over the paste and +stir until well mixed; if too thin add more beans; if too thick add hot +water until of the right consistency, place the soup over the fire to +reheat, and serve very hot. To bake beans, remove the pork from the +drained, partially cooked beans, score it across the top and replace it +in the pot in midst of and extending a trifle above the surface of the +beans, add 1 cup of hot water and securely cover the top of the pot with +a lid or some substitute. Sink the pot well into the glowing coals and +shovel hot coals over all. Add more hot water from time to time if +necessary. + +Beans cooked in a bean hole rival those baked in other ways. Dig the +hole about 1-1/2 feet deep and wide, build a fire in it, and keep it +burning briskly for hours; the oven hole must be _hot_. When the beans +are ready, rake the fire out of the hole; then sink the pot down into +the hole and cover well with hot coals and ashes, placing them all over +the sides and top of the pot. Over these shovel a thick layer of earth, +protecting the top with grass sod or thick blanket of leaves and bark, +that rain may not penetrate to the oven. Let the beans bake all night. + + +=Bacon= + +Sliced bacon freshly cut is best; do not bring it to camp in jars or +cans, but cut it as needed. Each girl may have the fun of cooking her +own bacon. + +Cut long, slender sticks with pronged ends, sharpen the prongs and they +will hold the bacon; or use sticks with split ends and wedge in the +bacon between the two sides of the split, then toast it over the fire. +Other small pieces of meat can be cooked in the same way. Bacon boiled +with greens gives the vegetable a fine flavor, as it also does +string-beans when cooked with them. It may, however, be boiled alone for +dinner, and is good fried for breakfast. + + +=Game Birds= + +Game birds can be baked in the embers. Have ready a bed of red-hot coals +covered with a thin layer of ashes, and after drawing the bird, dip it +in water to wet the feathers; then place it on the ash-covered red +coals, cover the bird with more ashes, and heap on quantities of red +coals. If the bird is small it should be baked in about one-half hour. +When done strip off the skin, carrying feathers with it, and the bird +will be clean and appetizing. Birds can also be roasted in the bean-pot +hole, but in this way, they must first be picked, drawn, and rinsed +clean; then cut into good-sized pieces and placed in the pot with fat +pork, size of an egg, for seasoning; after pouring in enough water to +cover the meat, fasten the pot lid on securely and bury the pot in the +glowing hot hole under a heap of red-hot coals. Cover with earth, the +same as when baking beans. + + +=Fish= + +Fish cooked in the embers is very good, and you need not first remove +scales or fins, but clean the fish, season it with salt and pepper, wrap +it in fresh, wet, green leaves or wet blank paper, not printed paper, +and bury in the coals the same as a bird. When done the skin, scales, +and fins can all be pulled off together, leaving the delicious hot fish +ready to serve. + +To boil a fish: First scale and clean it; then cut off head and tail. +If you have a piece of new cheesecloth to wrap the fish in, it can be +stuffed with dressing made of dry crumbs of bread or biscuits well +seasoned with butter, or bits of pork, pepper, and a very small piece of +onion. The cloth covering must be wrapped around and tied with white +string. When the fish is ready, put it into boiling water to which has +been added 1 tablespoonful of vinegar and a little salt. The vinegar +tends to keep the meat firm, and the dressing makes the fish more of a +dinner dish; both, however, can be omitted. Allow about twenty minutes +for boiling a three-pound fish. + +The sooner a fish is cooked after being caught the better. To scale a +fish, lay it on a flat stone or log, hold it by the head and with a +knife scrape off the scales. Scale each side and, with a quick stroke, +cut off the head and lower fins. The back fin must have incisions on +each side in order to remove it. Trout are merely scraped and cleaned by +drawing out the inside with head and gills. Do this by forcing your hand +in and grasping tight hold of the gullet. + +To clean most fish it is necessary to slit open the under side, take out +the inside, wash the fish, and wipe it dry with a clean cloth. + +If the camping party is fond of fish, and fish frequently forms part of +a meal, have a special clean cloth to use exclusively for drying the +fish. + + + _Provisions for One Person for Two Weeks. To be + Multiplied by Number of Campers, and Length of + Time if Stay is over Two Weeks_ + + +=Essential Foods= + +Outdoor life seems to require certain kinds of foods; these we call +essentials; others in addition to them are in the nature of luxuries or +non-essentials. + + +=List= + + _Essentials_ + + Wheat flour 6 lbs. + Corn-meal 2-1/2 lbs. + Baking-powder 1/2 lb. + Coffee 1/2 lb. + Tea 1/8 lb. + Cocoa 1/2 lb. + Pork 1 lb. + Bacon 2-1/2 lbs. + Salt 1/2 lb. + Pepper 1 oz. + Sugar 3 lbs. + Butter 1-1/2 lbs. + Milk, dried 1/2 lb. + Lard 3/4 lb. + Egg powder 1/4 lb. + Fruit, dried 1 lb. + Potatoes, dried 1-1/2 lbs. + Beans 1-1/2 lbs. + Maple-syrup 1 pt. + Vinegar 1/4 pt. + + +=List= + +_Non-Essentials_ + + Rice 2-1/2 lbs. + Lemons 1/2 doz. + Erbswurst 1/4 lb. + Soup tablets 1/4 lb. + Baker's chocolate (slightly sweetened) 1/2 lb. + Maple-sugar 1/2 lb. + Ham 5 lbs. + Nuts 2 lbs. + Marmalade 1/2 jar + Preserves 1 can + Citric acid 1/8 lb. + Onions, dried 1 oz. + Cheese 1 lb. + Potatoes, fresh 14 + Codfish 1 lb. + Vegetables, dried 1/2 lb. + + +=Sanitation= + +_Keep your camp scrupulously clean._ Do not litter up the place, your +health and happiness greatly depend upon observing the laws of hygiene. +Make sure after each meal that all kitchen refuse is collected and +deposited in the big garbage hole, previously dug for that purpose, and +well covered with a layer of fresh earth. + +[Illustration: 27 + +ANOTHER WAY OF HANGING THE CRANE OUT OF DOORS + +28 29 + +Camp fires and camp sanitation.] + +_Impress upon your mind that fresh earth is a disinfectant and keeps +down all odors._ + +Erect a framework with partially open side entrance for a retiring-room. +Use six strong forked-topped poles planted in an irregular square as +uprights (Fig. 28), and across these lay slender poles, fitting the ends +well into the forked tops of the uprights (Fig. 28). Half-way down from +the top, place more cross poles, resting them on the crotches left on +the uprights. Have these last cross poles as nearly the same distance +from the ground as possible and over them hang thick branches, hooking +the branches on by the stubs on their heavy ends. Also hang thickly +foliaged branches on the top cross poles, using the stubs where smaller +branches have been lopped off as hooks, as on the lower row (Fig. 29); +then peg down the bottom ends of the hanging branches to the ground with +sharpened two-pronged crotches cut from branches. The upper row of +branches should overlap the under row one foot or more. Make the seat by +driving three stout stakes firmly into the ground; two at the back, one +in front, and on these nail three crosspieces. + +Never throw dish water or any refuse near your tent or on the camp +grounds. + +_Burn_ or _bury_ all trash, remembering that earth and fire are your +good servants, and with their assistance you can have perfect camp +cleanliness, which will go a long way toward keeping away a variety of +troublesome flies and make camp attractive and wholesome. + + +=Camp Spirit= + +Thoughtfulness for others; kindliness; the willingness to do your share +of the work, and more, too; the habit of making light of all +discomforts; cheerfulness under all circumstances; and the determination +never to sulk, imagine you are slighted, or find fault with people, +conditions, or things. To radiate good-will, take things as they come +and _enjoy them_, and to do your full share of entertainment and +fun-making--this is the true camp spirit. + + + + +CHAPTER IV + +WHAT TO WEAR ON THE TRAIL + +=Camp Outfits. Clothing. Personal Outfits. Camp Packs. Duffel-Bags and +What to Put in Them= + + +To prepare your own camping outfit for the coming summer, to plan, to +work out your lists, to select materials, and make many of the things +just as you want them or even to hunt up the articles and purchase them, +while all the time delightful visions of trailing and camp life dance +before you, is to know the true joy of anticipation, and is great fun. + + +=Clothing= + +Make your dress for the trail absolutely comfortable, not too heavy, too +tight, too hot, or too cool. No part of the clothing should bind or +draw. + +Brown or dark gray are the best colors for the forest; avoid wearing +those which frighten the timid wild life, for you want to make friends +with the birds and animals, so do not wear metal buttons, buckles, or +anything that shines or sparkles. + + +=Underwear= + +For girl campers the light-weight, pure-woollen underwear is best, +especially if you locate in the mountains, or the Canadian or Maine +forests. On cold days two light-weight union garments are warmer than +one of heavy weight. Wool is never clammy and cold, it absorbs +perspiration and when on the trail prevents the chilly feeling often +experienced when halting for a rest in the forest. + +Union garments may be obtained in a variety of weights, and a one-piece +suit is the only garment necessary to wear under bloomers and middy when +at camp. + +Leave corsets at home, they have no place in the outdoor life, and you +will be freer if you discard the dress skirt when at camp and on the +trail. Have your muscles free, be able to take in long, deep breaths, to +move readily all portions of your body, and not be hampered in any way +by ill-fitting, uncomfortable clothing. There must be unrestricted +freedom of arms and limbs for a girl to be able to use them easily in +climbing mountains or hills, scrambling over fallen trees, sliding over +rocks, jumping from stone to stone, or from root to half-sunken log on +wet trails of the forest. + + +=Stockings= + +Select your stockings with care. Let them be of wool, strong, soft, and +absolutely satisfactory when the shoe is on. The aim of the entire camp +dress is to have it so comfortable and well adapted to outdoor life that +you will forget it; think no more of it than a bird does of its +feathers. When woollen stockings are worn, wet feet are not apt to give +one cold, for the feet do not become chilled even when it is necessary +to stand in the reedy edge of a mountain lake or stream. If, however, +you cannot wear wool, use cotton stockings. Remember that wool often +shrinks in the wash. Allow for this when purchasing goods, though it is +said, on reliable authority, that if laundered with care the garments +will not shrink. + +When washing woollen underwear use very soapy, cool water (not icy) with +addition of a little borax, or ammonia, if you have either, and do not +rub soap directly on wool; it mats the little fibres and this causes +the wool to shrink. For the same reason avoid rubbing the garments if +possible during the cleansing process. All that is usually necessary is +to squeeze and souse them well, then rinse in water of the same +temperature; do not wring the things; squeeze them and hang them up to +dry. Changes of temperature in the water when washing wool will cause +the wool to shrink. To alternate between cold and warm, hot and lukewarm +water will surely cause the clothing to grow much smaller and stiffer; +keep both wash and rinse water either cold or lukewarm; cold is safer. + +Allow no one to persuade you to take old clothes to camp; they will soon +need mending and prove a torment. + + +=Shoes= + +Wear low-heeled, high-laced shoes of stout leather and easy fit. Make +them water-proof by giving the leather a good coat of hot, melted mutton +tallow, completely covering the shoes and working the tallow into all +crevices. Be sure to do this, as it is worse than useless to depend upon +rubber overshoes when trailing; sharp stones cut, and roots, twigs, and +underbrush tear the rubber, with the result that the overshoes soon fill +with water and your feet swim in little lakes. Test your shoes well +before taking them to camp, be perfectly satisfied that they are +comfortable and well-fitting, wear them steadily for one week or more. +It is very unwise to risk new shoes on the trail, and it is of the +utmost importance that the feet be kept in good condition. Be kind to +your feet. + + +=Camping Dress= + +The most serviceable and practical dress for camping is a three-piece +suit, made of a fadeless, soft quality of gray or brown material. + +[Illustration: DUFFEL-BAGS + +LEGGIN + +PONCHO + +TRAILER'S BOOT + +Trailers' outfits.] + +The middy-blouse while loose can be well-fitting, with long sleeves +roomy enough to allow of pushing up above the elbow when desired. Sew +two small patch pockets high on the left breast--one for your watch, the +other for your compass; protect the pockets with flaps which fasten down +over the open top with dress snaps. On the right breast sew one +good-sized pocket. + +In addition to these you will need one large pocket on both right and +left side of middy, below belt line, making in all three large and two +small pockets. The belt is held in place by sliding it through loops +sewed on the middy, one at the back and one on each side. + +Make the skirt of this suit short enough for ease and of generous width, +not to draw at front, but give perfect freedom of the limbs. Have a seam +pocket in each side of the front breadth, and fasten the skirt down one +side from belt to hem. It can then be quickly removed and used as a cape +or a wind break when occasion requires. The bloomers, well-fitting and +comfortable, gathered below the knee with best quality of elastic, that +it may last, can have a deep pocket sewed across the front of each leg, +several inches conveniently below waist-line. + + +=Hat= + +A soft, light-weight felt hat with brim sufficiently wide to shade the +eyes will prove the best head covering for the trail. Don't use hatpins; +your hat will cling to the head if you substitute a strip of woollen +cloth in place of the inside leather band. The clinging wool prevents +the hat from being readily knocked off by overhanging branches or blown +off on windy days. + + +=Check List of Apparel= + +Go light when off for the woods, take with you only those things which +seem to be absolutely necessary; remember that you will carry your own +pack and be your own laundress, so hesitate about including too many +washable garments. Make out your list, then consider the matter +carefully and realize that every one of the articles, even the very +smallest, has a way of growing heavier and heavier and adding to the +ever-increasing weight of your pack the longer you walk, so be wise, +read over your list and cut it down, decide that you _can_ do without a +number of things thought at first to be indispensable. + +In addition to your camp dress described, the following list forms a +basis to work upon, to be added to, taken from, or substitution made +according to location, climate, and nature of the country where you will +pitch camp: + + One extra suit of wool underwear. Wash suit as + soon as changed. + + One extra pair of stockings. Every morning put on + a fresh pair, washing the discarded ones the same + day. + + One high-necked, long-sleeved, soft, woven + undershirt for cold days. + + One extra thin middy-blouse for hot days. + + Three pocket handkerchiefs, each laundered as soon + as discarded. + + One kimono, soft, warm wool, buttoned down front, + not eider-down (it is too bulky), color brown or + dark gray. + + One bathing-suit without skirt, made in one-piece, + loose, belted waist with bloomers; suit opened on + shoulders with strong button and buttonhole + fastenings. + + One warm sweater with high turned-over collar and + sleeves good and long. On the trail carry your + sweater by tying the sleeves around your waist, + allowing the sweater to hang down at the back. + + One pair of gloves, strong, pliable, easy-fitting + chamois, if you feel that you need them. The bare, + free hands are better. + + One pair of strong, snug, well-fitting leggins + matching camp dress in color, with no buttons or + buckles to tangle on underbrush. The fastening can + be covered by smooth outer flap. + + One pair of felt slippers or thick-soled moccasins + for tent. + + Four extra strips of elastic for renewing those in + knees of bloomers. + + One large, strong, soft silk or cotton + neckerchief, for protecting neck from sun, rain, + and cold, also good to fold diagonally and use for + arm sling or tie over hat in a hard wind; silk is + best. + + Two head-nets if your stay is long, one if short, + to be worn in case of swarms of pestiferous flies + and mosquitoes. Especially needed for protection + from the midge, black-fly, etc., found in northern + forests and elsewhere during the spring and + through to the middle or last of July. Your net + can be of fine mesh bobbinet; if you have only + white, dye it black; all other colors are apt to + dazzle the eyes. The best material to use is black + Brussels net. Cut a strip of net long enough to + fit easily around your shoulders and allow of some + fulness. Take the measurement smoothly around the + shoulders with a piece of tape and add to this + about three-eighths of the entire length you have + just measured, which will give you the length + required. The width should be sufficient to allow + of the net reaching from base of hat crown across + over brim and down over top of shoulders, about + twenty-two inches or more in all. Cut the net + according to size needed; then fold the strip at + centre across the width, fold again, making four + even folds. Once more fold and you will have + divided the net into eight equal parts. Mark the + net at each fold and open it out (Fig. 30). Cut + armholes in the divisions marked 2 (Fig. 30) to + fit over the shoulders, sew together the two ends, + bind the shoulder armholes holding the net loosely + that it may not pull and strain. Sew an elastic to + back corner of each armhole, hem the top of net + strip and run an elastic through hem to fit snugly + on base of hat crown. Gather lower edges of net; + then try the net on, adjusting lower and upper + gathers so that the veil will blouse a little, + remembering not to let the net touch your face; if + it should, the little tormentors will bite through + and torture you. Sew a piece of black tape across + lower edge of the front and another across lower + edge of the back, fitting the tape to lie smoothly + over chest and back; then bring forward the + hanging pieces of elastic, adjust them comfortably + under the arms, and mark length of elastic to + reach around under arm and fasten with dress snaps + at front corner of armhole. Cut elastic and finish + net (Fig. 31). + + _Ornaments_--Never take rings, bracelets, + necklaces, or jewelry of any kind to camp; leave + all such things at home, and with them ribbons, + beads, and ornaments of all descriptions. + +[Illustration: 30 + +31 + +The head-net and blanket-roll.] + + +=Check List of Toilet Articles= + + One comb, not silver-backed. + + One hand-mirror to hang or stand up. + + One tooth-brush in case. + + One tube of tooth-paste, or its equivalent. + + One nail-brush. + + One cake of unscented toilet-soap. + + Two cakes of laundry-soap. + + One package of borax or securely corked bottle of + ammonia. + + One tube of cold-cream. + + One baking-powder can of pure, freshly "tried out" + mutton tallow, made so by boiling in pure water + until melted, then allowed to cool and harden. + When taken from the water, again melted and, while + hot, strained through a clean cloth into the can. + Good to remove pitch and balsam-gum from the + hands, to use as cold-cream to soften the hands, + and excellent to water-proof the shoes. + + One wash-cloth, washed, aired, and sunned every + day. In rainy weather, washed and dried. + + Two hand towels, each washed as soon as soiled. + + One bath towel, washed as soon as used. + + One manicure-scissors. + + One package sandpaper nail-files. + + Two papers of hair-pins. + + One paper of common pins, also little flat pocket + pincushion well filled around edge with pins. + + Two papers of large-sized safety-pins. + + +=Check List of Personal Camp Property= + + One note-book and pencil for taking notes on wild + birds, animals, trees, etc. + + One needle-case, compact with needles and strong + white and black thread, wound on cardboard reels + (spools are too bulky). Scissors, thimble, and + large-eyed tape-needle for running elastic through + hem in bloomers and head-net, when needed. + + Two papers of very large sized safety-pins of + horse-blanket kind. + + One roll of tape, most useful in many ways. + + One whistle, the loudest and shrillest to be + found, worn on cord around the neck, for calling + help when lost or in case of need. A short, simple + system of signalling calls should be adopted. + + One compass, durable and absolutely true. + + One watch, inexpensive but trustworthy. Do not + take your gold watch. + + One package of common post-cards, with lead pencil + attached. The postals to take the place of + letters. + + One package writing-paper and stamped envelopes, + if post-cards do not meet the needs. + + One pocket-knife, a big, strong one, with + substantial, sharp, strong blades, for outdoor + work and to use at meals. + + One loaded camera, in case which has secure + leather loops through which your belt can be + slipped to carry camera and hold it steady, + leaving the hands free and precluding danger of + smashing the instrument should a misstep on mossy + stone or a trip over unseen vine or root suddenly + throw you down and send the camera sailing on a + distance ahead. Such an accident befell a girl + camper who was too sure that her precious camera + would be safest if carried in her hand. Wear the + camera well back that you may not fall on it + should you stumble, or the camera can be carried + on strap slung from the right shoulder. + + Three or more rolls of extra films, the quantity + depending upon your length of stay at camp and the + possibilities for interesting subjects. + + One fishing-rod and fishing-tackle outfit. Choose + the simple and useful rather than the fancy and + expensive. Select your outfit according to the + particular kind of fishing you will find near + camp. There is a certain different style of rod + and tackle for almost every variety of fish. If + fishing is not to be a prominent feature of the + camp, you might take line and hooks, and wait + until you reach camp to cut your fishing-pole. + + One tin cup, with open handle to slide over belt. + The cup will serve you with cool sparkling water, + with cocoa, coffee, or tea as the case may be, and + it will also be your soup bowl. Keep the inside of + the cup bright and shiny. While aluminum is much + lighter than other metal, it is not advisable to + take to camp either cup, teaspoon, or fork of + aluminum because it is such a good conductor of + heat that those articles would be very apt to burn + your lips if used with hot foods. + + One dinner knife, if you object to using your + pocket-knife. + + One dinner fork, not silver. + + One teaspoon, not silver. + + One plate, may be of aluminum or tin, can be kept + bright by scouring with soap and earth. + + Two warm wool double blankets, closely woven and + of good size. The U.S. Army blankets are of the + best. With safety-pins blankets can be turned into + sleeping-bags and hammocks. + + One poncho, light in weight to wear over + shoulders, spread on ground rubber side down to + protect from dampness, can be used in various + ways. + + One pillow-bag. + + One mattress-bag. + + One water-proof match-safe. + + One belt hatchet in case, or belt sheath small + axe, for chopping wood and felling small trees, + but, be very careful when using either of these + tools. Before going to camp find some one who can + give you proper instructions in handling one or + both, and practise carefully following directions. + Be very _cautious_ and go slow until you become an + expert. Outdoor books and magazines should be + consulted for information, and if you do not feel + absolutely confident of your ability to use the + hatchet or axe after practising, _do not take them + with you_. For the sake of others as well as + yourself, you have not the right to take chances + of injuring either others or yourself through + inability to use safely any tool. Do not attempt + to use a regular-sized axe, it is very dangerous. + One guide told me that after a tenderfoot chopped + a cruel gash nearly through his foot when using + the guide's axe, that axe was never again loaned, + but kept in a safe place and not allowed to be + touched by any one except the owner. + + +=Check List for First Aid= + + One hot-water bag, good for all pains and aches, + and a comfort when one is chilly. + + One package pure ginger pulverized or ground, to + make hot ginger tea in case of chill, pains in the + bowels, or when you have met with an accidental + ducking or are wet through to the skin by rain. + Never mind if the tea does burn, ginger always + stings when helping one. Be a good sport, take + your medicine. + + One box of charcoal tablets for dyspepsia or + indigestion. + + One package bicarbonate of soda (baking-soda); + good for burns, sprinkle well with soda, see that + the burn is completely covered, then cover lightly + with cloth, and do not disturb it for a long time. + + One bottle of ammonia well corked. Tie the cork + down firmly in the bottle (Fig. 32); a flannel + case or raffia covering will protect the glass + from breakage. Good to smell in case of faintness, + but care must be taken _not_ to hold it _too near_ + the _nose_, as the ammonia might injure the + delicate membranes, as would also smelling-salts. + Safer to move the bottle or cloth wet with ammonia + slowly back and forth near the nose. Good also for + insect bites. + + One roll of adhesive plaster. Cut into lengths for + holding covered ointment or poultice in place, the + strips criss-cross over the poultice, but are not + attached, the ends only are pressed on the bare + skin to which they firmly adhere. + + Two rolls of 2-1/2 or 3 inch wide surgeon bandages + (not gauze) for general use where bandages are + needed. + + One small package of absorbent cotton. + + Two mustard plasters, purchased at drug store; + good for stomachache. + + One package of powdered licorice to use as a + laxative. Dissolve a little licorice in water and + drink it. To keep the bowels open means to ward + off a host of evils. It is even more essential + that the inside of the body be kept clean than it + is to have the outside clean. To this end make a + practise of drinking a great deal of pure water; + drink it before breakfast, between meals (not at + meals), and before retiring. If you do this, you + will probably not need other laxative, especially + if you eat fruit either fresh or stewed. Fruit + should form part of every day's fare. _Keep your + bowels open._ + + One tube of Carron oil, to use for burns or + scalds. + + One small bottle of camphor, for headaches. + + One small bag of salt--good dissolved in water, 1 + teaspoonful to 1 pint of water, for bathing tired + or inflamed eyes, often effects a cure. Good for + bathing affected spots of ivy poison, good for + sore-throat gargle, also for nosebleed; snuff, + then plug nose. Good for brushing teeth. For all + these dissolve salt in water in proportion as + given above. + + One white muslin 24-inch triangular bandage, for + arm sling or chest, jaw, and head bandage. A man's + large-sized white handkerchief can be used; never + bind broken skin with colored cloth. + + One bottle of fly dope, warranted to keep off + pestiferous flies and mosquitoes. All these may be + kept in one-half of a linen case of pockets, your + toilet articles in the other half, and the case + can be opened out and hung to the side of your + tent or shelter. + + +=Check List for General Camp= + + Two basins, of light metal, paper or collapsible + rubber. The last is easy to pack and light to + carry. One basin will serve for several girls. If + you camp near a body of fresh water let that be + your basin; it will always be ready filled. No + need then to bring water to your shelter, for a + delightful dip in the river or lake every morning + before breakfast will obviate all necessity, and + do away with the otherwise needful hand-basin. + + One reliable map of location and surrounding + country for constant reference. + + One water-pail, light weight, for every two or + three girls. Can be canvas, aluminum, paper, + rubber, or your own selection in other materials. + + Six toilet-paper packages or more. + + One or more tents of water-proof material. + + One or more sod cloths for tent flooring. + + One or more inner tents of cheesecloth for + protection from mosquitoes, etc. These can be made + at home or purchased with the tents at the regular + camp-outfitters'. There is on the market a spray, + claimed to be absolutely effective against + mosquitoes, etc., and to keep both tent and camp + free from pests. One quart is said to last two + weeks with daily use. Cost, fifty cents per quart. + + One carborundum stone for sharpening all cutting + tools. + + One or more lanterns. Folding candle lanterns may + be purchased, but the simple ten-cent kind with + lamp-chimney for protection of candle are good. + They can be had at country stores in Cresco, Pa. + May possibly be found at camp-outfitters'. If a + glass chimney is to be used, pack most carefully. + Fill the inside of the chimney with stockings, + handkerchiefs, etc.; then wrap the chimney all + over with other soft clothing and tie securely. + Have this outside wrap very thick. + + One package of one-half length candles to use in + lantern. + + One _tin_ box of one or two dozen safety-matches. + _Tin_ will not catch fire from the matches. + + One strong tool-bag with separate labelled pockets + for different tools; each pocket with flap to + fasten securely with dress snaps. In this tool-bag + put assorted nails, mostly big, strong ones, + screws, awl, well-sealed bottle of strong glue, + ball of stout twine, a few rawhide thongs, three + or four yards of soft strong rope, a pair of + scissors, two spools of wire, and several yards of + cheesecloth. + + One rope--long for mountain-climbing. + + +=Check List of Kitchen Utensils= + + Two dish-pans, one for piping-hot sudsy water for + washing dishes, the other for scalding-hot rinsing + water. The last pan can also be used for mixing + and bread-making. Select pans strong and of light + weight--canvas, aluminum, or tin--and be sure they + nest or fold. + + Two water-pails, fitted one within the other, both + light weight. + + One coffee-pot, size to fit in pails, must not be + too high. Cocoa can be made in the coffee-pot. + + One frying-pan, for corn-dodgers, flapjacks, fried + mush, eggs, etc. + + One folding camp-oven, for hot biscuits, bread + puddings, and many other good things relished by + hungry campers. + + One wash-basin, to be kept strictly for washing + hands, when cooking. + + One large spoon, for stirring and general use. + + One kitchen-knife, suitable for cutting bread, + carving meat, turning pancakes, etc. + + One kitchen-fork, strong and big, but not a + toasting-fork. + + One Dutch oven pot, a strong seamless pot with + cover, to use for baking, boiling, and stewing. + + Three dish-towels, washed after every meal. + + One dish mop or cloth, washed and dried after each + meal; dry in sun when possible. + + Four large cakes of soap. + + One thick holder, for lifting pots. Hang this up + in a certain place where it may always be found + when needed. + + One pepper and one salt shaker, small and light in + weight. + + One net air-bag, for meat, fish, and anything that + must be kept fresh (Fig. 33) and protected from + the flies. Use strong net and two or more hoops + for the air-bag. With pincers you can twist the + two ends of strong wire together and make the + hoops of size large enough to hold the net out + away from a large piece of meat. Cut the net long + enough to stand above and hang below the meat. + Gather the top edge tightly together and sew it + fast; then sew the hoop near the top of the bag. + Other hoops on either side of centre of bag and a + hoop near bottom of bag, or sew only one hoop at + the top and one at the bottom. Have strong + draw-strings in the bottom of the bag, and fasten + a pendent hook at the top to hold the meat hanging + free inside of the bag. With copper wire attach a + good-sized ring on top of the bag, wire it through + the handle of the pendent hook and weld them + together. When in use, the bag should be suspended + high from the ground by means of a rope pulley run + through the top ring and over the limb of a + near-by tree. Similar air-bags can be obtained, if + desired, from camp-outfitters. + +When selecting cooking utensils for the camp, you will find those with +detachable handles pack better and for that reason are desirable. + +Do not forget that every check-list given may be reduced; don't think +you must include all the items. For these lists give outfits for +permanent as well as temporary camps. If you can manage with _one towel_ +by washing it every day, or evening, allowing it to dry during the +night, one towel will be sufficient; leave the others at home. Drop +from the various lists every article you can possibly dispense with and +still be comfortable in camp. + +If you wear the camp suit travelling from home to camp, its weight and +bulk will be omitted from your camp pack, and be so much to your gain, +and you will maintain a good appearance notwithstanding, for if well +made and of proper fit the dress will be a suitable travelling costume. + + +=Camp Packs= + +When you intend carrying your belongings and striking the trail either +part or all the way to camp, the easiest method for portage is to stow +the things in a regular pack and fasten the pack on your back by means +of strong, long straps attached to the pack, and passed over your +shoulders and under your arms. + +A square of water-proof canvas makes a simple and good camp pack. Get a +nine-by-nine-feet (more or less) square of cloth, and it will be found +useful as shelter, fly, ground-cloth, windbreak, and in other ways after +reaching camp. + + +=What to Put in Your Pack= + +Open out your pack-cloth flat on the floor, and place your folded +mattress-bag in the centre. + +Fill the pillow-bag with your first-aid case and case of toilet +articles, and if there is space for other things pack them in. Lay the +pillow-bag on top of the mattress-bag, place clothing by the side and on +top of the pillow-bag, being careful to keep the contents of your pack +rectangular in shape and of size to fit well over your back. + +[Illustration: 32 + +CAMP PACK + +BLANKET PACK + +33 + +PACK-HARNESS + +MEAT SAFE + +Some things to carry and how to carry them.] + +If not adding too much to the weight, include many things from your +personal-belonging list; of these articles you can carry some in the +pockets of your camp suit. Everything being in the pack, fold over the +sides and ends, making a neat, compact bundle; tie it securely with a +piece of soft rope and across its top place the blankets with poncho +inside, which you have previously made into a roll to fit. Bind pack and +blankets together, attach the pack shoulder-strap and swing the pack on +your back. + +Pack straps or harness can be obtained at any camp-outfitter's. + +A different style of pack may be a bag with square corners, all seams +strongly stitched, then bound with strong tape. Cut two pieces of the +water-proof cloth, one about sixteen inches wide, and the other eighteen +inches; this last is for the front and allows more space. Let each piece +be twenty-one inches long or longer, unite them with a strip of the +cloth six inches wide and sufficiently long to allow of flaps extending +free at the top to fold over from both sides across the opening; you +will then have a box-like bag. Make one large flap of width to fit the +top of the back, and length to cross over on front, covering the smaller +flaps and fastening down on the outside of the front of the pack. All +three flaps may have pockets to hold small articles. + +The shoulder-straps may be either of strong government webbing which +comes for the purpose, tube lamp-wick, or leather. + +With this pack the blanket and poncho could be made into a thin roll and +fitted around the edges of the pack, or made into a short roll and +attached to top of pack. + +When feasible it is a good plan to pack your smaller belongings in +wall-pockets with divisions protected by flaps securely fastened over +the open ends, the wall-pockets rolled, tied, and carried in the camp +pack. These pockets are useful at camp; they help to keep your things +where you can find them. Next best is to use small separate labelled +bags for different variety of duffel, and pack them in one or two duffel +tube-shaped bags, which may be bound together, constituting one pack. + +From eighteen to twenty-four pounds is average weight for a girl to +carry; it all depends upon strength and endurance; some girls can carry +even heavier packs, while others must have lighter ones. Beware about +loading yourself down too heavily. Packs grow heavier and heavier, never +lighter on the trail. + + +=Blanket-Roll Pack= + +Side-trips from camp for only one night's bivouac will not need a back +pack; the few articles required can be carried in your blanket-roll. +Spread the poncho out flat, rubber side down, then your blankets on top, +and group the things you intend to take into two separate oblong groups, +one on each side of the central space at one end of the blankets; push +the articles in each division closely together, leaving the space +between the divisions empty. Kneel in front of your blankets and begin +to roll all together tightly, taking care not to allow any of the duffel +to fall out. When the roll is complete, tie the centre with strong, soft +string, and also each end, and make a hoop of the roll by tying together +the hanging strings on the two ends. Wear the blanket-roll over left +shoulder, diagonally across back and chest to rest over right hip. If +you have forgotten a few items, tie the things to the bottom of the +blanket-roll and let them hang like tassels. + + +=Duffel-Bag= + +Articles for general use while at camp can be packed together in one or +more duffel-bags; if but one bag is needed, provisions might go in the +same receptacle when space and weight permit. It is much better, +however, to have a separate bag for provisions. + + +=Packing Provisions= + +You can make or buy separate tube bags of different heights, but all of +the same diameter, and pack flour in one, corn-meal in another, and so +on, having each bag labelled and all, when filled, fitted in one +duffel-bag; you will find these bags a great comfort. They should be of +water-proof canvas with draw-string at the top. You can purchase +friction-top cans for butter, etc., of varying depth to accommodate +different quantities which will fit well in the large provision bag. + +A duffel-bag is usually made cylindrical in form with a disk of the +cloth sewed in tight at one end, and the other end closed with +draw-strings. It is well to have another cloth disk attached to one spot +at the top of the bag, to cover the contents before the draw-strings are +fastened. + +A great variety of desirable camp packs, including duffel-bags, +pack-straps, harness, and tump-lines, may be purchased at the +camp-outfitter's; investigate before deciding upon home-made camp packs. +Pack-baskets can also be obtained, but all the good-sized pack-baskets I +have seen, while attractive in appearance, are too rigid, bulky, +sharp-edged, and heavy to be of use to girl campers. + +Having decided that the wilderness is the place to locate, unless you +can manage to camp with very little in the way of extra packs, you will +be obliged to employ a guide to assist in the carry, possibly two +guides, as wilderness trails do not permit of a vehicle, or even a mule +or horse, being used to help in the portage. + +Should your camp be on a more accessible site, the easy portage can be +taken advantage of and the problem readily solved; but the charm of the +real forest camp with all its possibilities for genuine life in the +wilderness more, far more, than compensates for the extra difficulties +in reaching camp. Really, though, the very difficulties are but part of +the sport; they give zest and add to the fun of the trail. + + + + +CHAPTER V + +OUTDOOR HANDICRAFT + +=Camp Furnishings--Dressing-Table, Seats, Dining-Table, Cupboard, Broom, +Chair, Racks, Birch-Bark Dishes, etc.= + + +Camp is the place where girls enjoy most proving their powers of +resourcefulness. + +It is fun to supply a want with the mere natural raw materials found in +the open, and when you succeed in making a useful article of outdoor +things, the entire camp takes a pride in your work and the simple but +practical and usable production gives a hundred per cent more pleasure +than could a store article manufactured for the same purpose. + +Be comfortable at camp. While it is good to live simply in the open, it +is also good to be comfortable in the open, and with experience you will +be surprised to find what a delightful life can be lived at camp with +but few belongings and the simplest of camp furnishings. These last can, +in a great measure, be made of tree branches and the various stuffs +found in the woods. + +[Illustration: Handicraft in the woods. + +Details of the outdoor dressing-table. Comb-racks of forked sticks and +of split sticks.] + + +=Dressing-Table= + +A near-by tree will furnish the substantial foundation for your +dressing-table and wash-stand combined. If you can find a side-piece of +a wooden box, use it for the shelf and fasten this shelf on the trunk of +a tree about two and one-half feet or more above the ground. Cut two +rustic braces and nail the front of the shelf on the top ends of these +supports; then nail a strip of wood across the tree as a cleat on which +to rest the back of the shelf; fit the shelf on the cleat and nail the +lower ends of the braces to the tree; strengthen the work still more by +driving a strong, long nail on each side of the top centre of the back +of shelf, diagonally down through the shelf, cleat, and into the tree. + +It is not essential that the straight shelf edge fit perfectly to the +rounded tree, but if you desire to have it so, mark a semicircle on the +wood of size to fit the tree and whittle it out. + +Should there be no piece of box for your shelf, make the shelf of +strong, slender sticks lashed securely close together on two side +sticks. For cleats and braces use similar sticks described for board +shelf. + +When the shelf is made in this way, cover the top with birch bark or +other bark to give a flat surface. + +Hang your mirror on a nail in the tree at convenient distance above the +shelf, and your tooth-brush on another nail. The towel may hang over the +extending end of the cleat, and you can make a small bark dish for the +soap. Your comb can rest on two forked-stick supports tacked on the +tree, or two split-end sticks. + + +=Camp-Seats= + +Stones, logs, stumps, raised outstanding roots of trees, and boxes, when +obtainable, must be your outdoor chairs, stools, and seats until others +can be made. + +[Illustration: Outdoor dressing-table, camp-cupboard, hammock-frame, +seat, and pot-hook.] + +Two trees standing near together may be used to advantage as uprights +for a camp seat. Cut a small horizontal kerf or notch at the same height +on opposite sides of both trees, get two strong poles (green wood), fit +them in the wedges and nail them to the trees; then lash them firmly in +place. Be absolutely certain that these poles are of strong wood, +firmly attached to the trees and not liable to slide or break. + +Make the seat by lashing sticks across from pole to pole, placing them +close together. Two more long poles, fastened to the trees at a proper +distance above the seat, would give a straight back, if a back is +desired, but it is not essential; with a folded blanket spread over it, +the seat alone is a luxury. + + +=Camp-Table= + +A table can be built in much the same way as the seat and will answer +the purpose well if one of boards is not to be had. For the table make +your crosspieces about twenty-two inches long, nail them ladder-like but +close together on two poles, and make this table top flat on the surface +by covering it with birch bark tacked on smoothly. Having previously +fastened two other poles across from tree to tree, as you did when +making the seat, you can lift the table top and lay it on the two +foundation poles; then bind it in place and the table will be finished. +Another way of using the table top is to drive four strong, stout, +forked sticks into the ground for the four table legs and place the +table top across, resting the long side poles in the crotches of the +stakes, where they may be lashed in place. + +Benches for the table can be made in like manner, only have the +forked-stick legs shorter, raising the seat about eighteen inches above +the ground. + +[Illustration: Camp-chair, biscuit-stick, and blanket camp-bed.] + + +=Camp-Cupboard= + +A cupboard made of a wooden box by inserting shelves, held up by means +of cleats, will be found very convenient when nailed to a tree near the +cook-fire. Hang a door on the cupboard which will close tight and +fasten securely. Have this in mind when making out your check list, and +add hinges, with screws to fit, to your camp tools. + + +=Camp-Broom= + +With a slender pole as a handle, hickory shoots, or twisted fibre of +inner bark of slippery-elm, for twine, and a thick bunch of the top +branchlets of balsam, spruce, hemlock, or pine for the brush part, you +can make a broom by binding the heavy ends of the branches tight to an +encircling groove cut on the handle some three inches from the end. Cut +the bottom of the brush even and straight. + + +=Camp-Chair= + +If you have a good-size length of canvas or other strong cloth, make a +camp-chair. For the back use two strong, forked stakes standing upright, +and use two long poles with branching stubs at equal distance from the +bottom, for the sides and front legs of the chair; in the crotches of +these stubs the bottom stick on which the canvas strip is fastened will +rest. + +Each side pole must be fitted into one of the forked high-back stakes, +and then the top stick on the canvas strip must be placed in the same +crotches, but in front of and resting against the side poles, thus +locking the side poles firmly in place. + +To fasten the canvas on the two sticks, cut one stick to fit across the +chair-back and the other to fit across the lower front stubs. Fold one +end of the canvas strip over one stick and nail the canvas on it, so +arranging the cloth that the row of nails will come on the under side of +the stick. Turn in the edge first that the nails may go through the +double thickness of cloth. Adjust this canvas-covered stick to the top +of the chair, allowing the cloth to form a loose hanging seat; measure +the length needed for back and seat, cut it off and nail the loose end +of the canvas strip to the other stick; then fit one stick in the top of +the upright back stakes and the other stick in the bottom stubs. + + +=Camp Clothes-Press= + +If you are in a tent tie a hanging pole from the tent ridge-pole, and +use it as a clothes-press. + + +=Blanket Bed= + +Two short logs will be required for your blanket bed, the thicker the +better, one for the head and one for the foot, also two long, strong, +green-wood poles, one for each side of the bed; your blanket will be the +mattress. + +Fold the blanket, making the seam, formed by bringing the two ends +together, run on the under-side along the centre of the doubled blanket, +not on the edge. Lap and fasten the blanket ends together with large +horse-blanket safety-pins, and with the same kind of pins make a case on +each side of the blanket fold; then run one of the poles through each +case. Chop a notch near each end of the two short logs; in these notches +place the ends of the poles and nail them securely. Have the short logs +thick enough to raise the bed up a few inches from the ground, and make +the notches sufficiently far apart to stretch the mattress out smooth, +not have it sag. A strip of canvas or khaki may be used in place of the +blanket if preferred. + + +=Camp Hammock= + +By lashing short crosspieces to the head and foot of the side poles the +blanket mattress can be a hammock and swing between two trees, having +been attached to them with rope or straps of slippery-elm, beech, or +black birch. + + +=Birch-Bark Dishes= + +It will be easy for girls to make their birch-bark dinner plates, +vegetable dishes, baskets, dippers, etc. Soften the thick bark by +soaking it in water; when it is pliable cut one plate the size you wish, +lay it on a flat stone or other hard substance and scrape off the +outside bark around the edges, allowing the outer bark to remain on the +bottom of the plate to give greater strength; use this plate as a guide +in cutting each of the others. + +With your fingers shape the edges of the plates in an upward turn while +the bark is wet, using the smoothest side for the inside of the plate. + +A large bark cornucopia with bark strap-handle can be made and carried +on the arm in place of a basket when off berrying. + +Variations of circular, oblong, and rectangular bark dishes may be +worked out from strips and rectangular pieces of birch bark, and all +dishes can be turned into baskets by adding handles. When necessary to +sew the edges of bark together, always have the bark wet and soft; then +lap the edges and use a very coarse darning-needle with twine of +inner-bark fibre or rootlets; have ready hot melted grease mixed with +spruce gum to coat over the stitching and edges of the article, or you +can use white-birch resin for the same purpose. + +The bark utensils will wear longer if a slender rootlet or branchlet of +pliable wood is sewed, with the "over-and-over" stitch, to the edge of +the article. + +For round and oblong dishes or baskets, sew together the two ends of +your strip of wet bark; then sew the round or oblong bottom on the lower +edge of the bark circle. In this case it is not easy to lap the edges, +simply bring them together and finish the seam with the addition of the +slender rootlet binding. + +Rectangular dishes are made by folding the wet bark according to the +diagrams and fastening the folds near the top of both ends of the +receptacle. These will hold liquids. + +[Illustration: The birch-bark dish that will hold fluids. Details of +making.] + + +=Cooking Utensils= + +A forked stick with points sharpened makes a fine toasting-fork or +broiling-stick for bacon or other small pieces of meat. The meat is +stuck on the two prongs and held over the fire. + +A split-end stick may be used for the same purpose by wedging the bacon +in between the two sides of the split. + +Your rolling-pin can be a peeled, straight, smooth, round stick, and a +similar stick, not necessarily straight but longer, may do duty as a +biscuit baker when a strip of dough is wound spirally around it and held +over the fire. + +A hot flat stone can also be used for baking biscuits, and a large +flat-topped rock makes a substitute for table and bread-board combined. + +If you have canned goods, save every tin can when empty, melt off the +top, and with nail and hammer puncture a hole on two opposite sides near +the top, and fasten in a rootlet handle. These cans make very +serviceable and useful cooking-pails. + +Whittle out a long-handled cake-turner from a piece of thin split wood, +and also whittle out a large flat fork. + +Make a number of pot-hooks of different lengths, they are constantly +needed at camp; select strong green sticks with a crotch on one end and +drive a nail slantingly into the wood near the bottom of the stick on +which to hang kettles, pots, etc. Be sure to have the nail turn up and +the short side of the crotch turn down as in diagram. + +Campers employ various methods of making candlesticks. One method is to +lash a candle to the side of the top of a stake driven into the ground, +or the stake can have a split across the centre of the top, and the +candle held upright by a strip of bark wedged in the split with a loop +on one side holding the candle and the two ends of the bark extending +out beyond the other side of the stake. Again the candle is stuck into a +little mound of clay, mud, or wet sand. If you have an old glass bottle, +crack off the bottom by pouring a little water in the bottle and placing +it for a short while on the fire embers; then plant your candle in the +ground and slide the neck of the bottle over the candle. Steady it by +planting the neck of the bottle a little way in the ground and the glass +bottle will act as a windbreak for your candle. + +Never leave a candle burning even for a moment unless some one is +present; it is a dangerous experiment. Fire cannot be trifled with. _Put +out_ your candle before leaving it. + +A good idea before going away from camp when vacation is over is to +photograph all the different pieces of your outdoor handicraft, and when +the prints are made label each one with the month, date, and year and +state material used, time required in the making, and comments on the +work by other camp members. + +Be sure to take photographs of different views of the camp as a whole, +also of each separate shelter, both the outside and the inside, and have +pictures of all camp belongings. + +The authors will be greatly interested in seeing these. + +[Illustration: A bear would rather be your friend than your enemy.] + + + + +CHAPTER VI + +MAKING FRIENDS WITH THE OUTDOOR FOLK + +=In the Woods, the Fields, on the Shore. Stalking Animals and Birds= + + +There is but one way to make friends with the folk of the wild, and that +is by gentleness, kindness, and quietness. Also one must learn to be +fearless. It is said that while animals may not understand our language +they do understand, or feel, our attitude toward them; and if it is that +of fear or dislike we stand little chance of really knowing them, to say +nothing of establishing any kind of friendly relations with them. By +quiet watchfulness, keenness of sight and hearing, you may obtain a +certain amount of knowledge of their ways, but when you add real +sympathy and kindly feeling you gain their confidence and friendship. +Make them understand that you will not interfere with or harm them, and +they will go about their own affairs unafraid in your presence. Then you +may silently watch their manner of living, their often amusing habits, +and their frank portrayal of character. As a guest in the wild, +conducting yourself as a courteous guest should, you will be well +treated by your wild hosts, some of whom, in time, may even permit you +to feed and stroke them. They do not dislike but fear you; they would +rather be your friends than your enemies. The baby animal which has not +yet learned to fear a human being will sometimes, when in danger, run to +you for protection. This must win your heart if nothing else can. + +[Illustration: Making friends with a ruffed grouse.] + + +=Stalking= + +You may stalk an animal by remaining quiet as well as by following its +trail. To even see some of the inhabitants of woods, fields, and shore +you must be willing to exercise great patience and conform to their +method of hiding by remaining absolutely still. It is the thing that +moves that they fear. Some of the animals appear not even to see a +person who remains motionless. At any rate, they ignore him as they do a +stump or stone. + +For this quiet stalking, find as comfortable a seat as you can where you +have reason to think some kind of animal or animals will pass and resign +yourself to immovable waiting. If the rock beneath you grows +unreasonably hard or the tree roots develop sharp edges, or the ground +sends up unnoticed stones of torment; if your foot "goes to sleep" or +your nose itches, bear the annoyances bravely and your reward will be +sure and ample. If the wait is unduly long and movement of some kind +becomes imperative, let such movement be made so slowly as to be almost +imperceptible. Remember that unseen, suspicious eyes will be attracted +by any sudden action and the faintest sound will be heard, for these +spell danger to the wilderness folk and if frightened away they are not +apt to return. + +Keep your ears open to detect the first sound of approaching life. There +is a thrill in this experience, and another when the animal you have +heard comes boldly out before you. Then it is you will find that, in +some mysterious way, all bodily discomfort has vanished. Your whole +being is absorbed in the movements of the creature who is unconscious of +your presence, and there is no room for other sensations. More animals +may appear and perhaps a little drama may be enacted as if for your +benefit. + +[Illustration: Found on the trail. + +Chipmunk and white-footed mouse, panther, kangaroo rat, raccoon, and +weasel.] + +It may be a tragedy, it may be a comedy, or it may be only a bit of +every-day family life; but you do not know the plot nor how many actors +will take part, and your very uncertainty adds zest to the situation. + + +=Animals Found on the Trail= + +The animals most frequently seen in the woods where there is no longer +any large game are the chipmunk, the red, the gray, and the black +squirrel, the rabbit and hare, the fox, weasel, pine-marten, woodchuck, +raccoon, opossum, and skunk, also the pack-rat (of the west), the +white-footed and field mouse. In deeper and wilder forests there are +deer and porcupine, though deer are found quite near habitations at +times. In more remote places there are the moose and caribou; the bear, +mountain-lion, lynx or wildcat, and the timber-wolf. The wolf is, +however, equally at home in the open and at this day is most plentiful +on the wide plains of the west. Unless your trail leads through the +remote wilderness, you will hardly come across the more savage animals, +and when you do invade their territory it will give you greater courage +to call to mind the fact that they, as well as the smaller wild things, +are afraid of man. Our most experienced hunters and our best writers on +the subject of animal life agree that a wild animal's first emotion upon +seeing a human being is undoubtedly _fear_. When you come upon one +suddenly you may feel sure that he is as much frightened as you are and +will probably turn aside to avoid you unless he thinks you are going to +attack him. All wild creatures are afraid of fire, therefore the +camp-fire is a barrier they will not pass, and a blazing firebrand will +drive any of them away. + +[Illustration: Timber wolves.] + + +=Birds= + +Among the feathered tribes of the woods you will find the owl, the +woodcock, and the grouse. Of the smaller birds, the nuthatch, the wood +and hermit thrush, whippoorwill, woodpeckers, wood-pewee, and others. +Most of the birds prefer the edge of the woods, where they can dip into +the sunshine and take long flights through the free air of the open; but +the hermit-thrush, shyest and sweetest of singers, makes his home deep +in the silent, shadowy forest. In these depths, and oftenest near a bog +or marsh, you may also hear the call of the partridge, or more properly, +the ruffed grouse. As given by the writer William J. Long, the call is +like this: + +"Prut, prut, pr-r-r-rt! Whit-kwit? Pr-r-r-rt, pr-r-r-rt! Ooo-it, ooo-it? +Pr-r-reeee!" + +Or perhaps you will be startled by the rolling drum-call. This begins +slowly, increases rapidly, and ends something like this: "Dum! dum! dum! +dum-dum-dum-dumdumdum!" The drum-call is made by the male bird who, +beating the air with his wings, produces the sound. It is said to be a +mating-call, but is heard at other times as well, long after the +mating-season is over. + +[Illustration: Baby moose.] + + +=Stalking the Ruffed Grouse= + +If you want to see the birds, stalk them when you hear their call. Wait +until you locate the direction of the sound, then walk silently and +follow it. As soon as the birds are sighted slip from one tree to +another, stopping instantly when you think they may see you, until you +can conceal yourself behind a bush, tree, or stump near enough for you +to peer around and have a good view of your game. It may sometimes be +necessary to drop to your knees in order to keep out of sight. If you +have heard the drum it is the cock that you have stalked and, if early +in the season, you will soon see his demure little mate steal through +the underbrush to meet her lordly master as he stands proudly on an old +log awaiting her. The "whit-kwit" call may lead you to the hen grouse +with her brood of little chicks which are so much the color of the brown +leaves you will not see them until they move. If the call comes later in +the year you may come upon a flock of well-grown young birds who have +left their mother and are now following a leader. + +The ruffed grouse is a beautiful bird. He is yellowish-brown or rusty, +splashed with black or dark brown, and white, with under-parts of a +light buff. His beak is short and on his small, dainty head he carries +his crest proudly. His shoulders bear epaulets of dark feathers, called +the ruff, and his fan-like tail is banded and cross-barred. The nest of +the grouse is on the ground, usually against a fallen log, at the foot +of a tree, or in a hollow made by the roots; or it may be hidden amid +underbrush. It is easily overlooked, being made of dry leaves with, +perhaps, some feathers. In the season it contains from eight to fourteen +eggs. + + +=Woodcock= + +The woodcock, another forest bird, seldom shows himself in broad +daylight except when hunted; then he will rise a few feet, fly a short +distance, drop and run, hiding again as quickly as he can. You will know +the woodcock from the ruffed grouse by his _long bill_, his short legs, +and his very short tail. He frequents the banks of wooded streams or the +bogs of the forests and, like the grouse, nests on the ground; but the +woodcock's nest seldom contains more than four eggs. + +[Illustration: Stalking wild birds.] + + +=Beaver= + +Along the shores of sluggish streams, of lonely lakes and ponds, you may +see the beaver, the muskrat, very rarely the otter, and sometimes an +ugly little, long-bodied animal belonging to the marten family called +the fisher. These are all interesting, each in its own way, and well +worth hours of quiet observation. The beaver, otter, and fisher choose +wild, secluded places for their homes, but the muskrat may be found also +in the marshes of farm lands. On the edges of our Long Island meadows +the boys trap muskrats for their skins. + +You will find the beaver house in the water close to the shore and +overlapping it. Though strongly and carefully built, it looks very much +like a jumble of small driftwood, with bleached sticks well packed +together, and the ends standing out at all angles. The sticks are +stripped of their bark and the house gleams whitely against the dark +water. The houses vary in size, some being built as high as five feet. +The beaver is rarely seen early in the day, most of his work is done at +night, so the best time to watch for him is just before dusk or perhaps +an hour before sundown. It is not well to wait to see the beaver if your +trail back to camp is a long one, leading through dense forests. You +would far better postpone making its acquaintance than to risk going +over the, perhaps, treacherous paths after dark. Night comes early in +the woods and darkness shuts down closely while it is still light in the +open. If your camp is near the beaver house or beaver dam, or if your +trip can be made by water, then, with no anxiety about your return, you +can sit down and calmly await the coming of this most skilful of all +building animals, and may see him add material to his house, or go on +with his work of cutting down a tree, as a reward for your patience. + + +=Fish-Hawk, Osprey= + +On the shore you will also find the fish-hawk, or osprey; a +well-mannered bird he is said to be, who fishes diligently and attends +strictly to his own business. The fish-hawk's nest will generally be at +the top of a dead tree where no one may disturb or look into it, though, +as the accompanying photograph shows, it is sometimes found on rocks +near the ground. The young hawks have a way of their own of defending +themselves from any climbing creature, and to investigators of the nest +the results are disastrously disagreeable as well as laughable. As the +intruder climbs near, the baby birds put their heads over the sides of +the nest and empty their stomachs upon him. This is vouched for by a +well-known writer who claims to have gone through the experience. + +The female osprey is larger and stronger than the male. On slowly moving +wings she sails over the water, dropping suddenly to clutch in her +strong talons the fish her keen eyes have detected near the surface of +the water. Fish are fish to the osprey and salt waters or fresh are the +same to her. I have watched the bird plunge into the waves of the ocean, +on the coast of Maine, to bring out a cunner almost too large for her to +carry, and I have seen her drop into the placid waters of an Adirondack +lake for lake-trout in the same manner. + + +=Blue Heron= + +The great blue heron is one of the shore folk and his metallic blue-gray +body gleams in the sunlight, as you sight him from your canoe, standing +tall and slim, a lonely figure on the bank. He flies slowly and +majestically, with his long legs streaming out behind. When out in a +small boat on Puget Sound a large heron escorted us some distance. As +we rowed near the shore he would fly ahead and then wait for us, +standing solemnly on a stone in the water or a partially submerged log, +to fly again as we approached. + +[Illustration: The fish-hawk will sometimes build near the ground.] + +This escort business seems to be a habit of the heron family, for the +same thing occurred on the Tomoca River, Fla., the home of the +alligator, when a small, brilliantly blue heron flew ahead of our boat +for several miles, always stopping to wait for us, and then going on +again. + +The heron is a fisher and when you see him standing close to the water, +on one foot perhaps, he is awaiting his game. It matters not how long he +must remain immovable, there he will stand until the fish comes within +striking distance, when the long, curved neck will shoot out like a +snake and the strong beak grasp its unwary prey. + + +=Loon, Great Northern Diver= + +Another interesting bird, which you may both hear and see on secluded +lakes, is the loon or great northern diver. I first heard the wild cry +of the loon, a lonesome and eerie sound, on Pine River Pond, a small +lake in the foot-hills of the White Mountains. There I saw the great +bird dive and disappear beneath the water to remain an alarmingly long +time, and then come up several hundred yards away, and rising, fly +slowly to the shore. It is always a matter for guessing when the loon +dives, for you can never tell where she will come up. This great diver +is a large black-and-white bird, about the size of a goose. The breast +is white, head black, and a white ring encircles its black neck. Its +beak is long, its legs very short and placed far back on the body. It is +essentially a water-bird, and on shore is both slow and awkward. I do +not think it possible to become very intimate with the loon, for it is +one of the wildest of our birds, and so suspicious it will allow no +close approach, but quiet watching will reveal many of its interesting +characteristics. Some one once found the nest of a loon and brought me a +little, downy, young one that I might try to tame it; but it lived only +a day or two in spite of all the devotion expended upon it, and its +wild, frightened cry was too pathetic to allow of another experiment of +the kind. + + +=Animals and Birds of the Open= + +You will find that the wild life of the open differs in some respects +from that of the woods, though there will be the woodchuck, the rabbit, +the fox, and the hare in the fields and farm lands as well as in the +woods. The weasel, too, makes unwelcome visits to the farm, but besides +these there are other animals that are seldom or never found in the +woods. + + +=Field-Mouse= + +There is the little field-mouse, a short-eared and short-tailed little +creature with a thick neck and of a red-brown color. It feeds on grain +and seeds, and when hard pressed for food will also eat the bark of +trees. + + +=Kangaroo-Rat, Jumping Mouse= + +In the underbrush near a meadow and at the edges of thickets you may +possibly see, though they are not common, a diminutive animal, beautiful +in form and color and of most interesting habits. In the Southwest it is +called the kangaroo-rat, but North and East it is known as the jumping +mouse. The name kangaroo-rat is given because of its short fore legs, +strong hind legs, and the kangaroo-like leaps it makes. In temper it is +very unlike the ordinary rat; it does not bite and can be safely +handled, but will not live if kept in captivity. + + +=Pocket-Gopher= + +The pocket-gopher lives and burrows in the fields. It is a mole-like +animal but much larger than the common mole. Its legs are short and its +front feet strong, with long nails for digging. The fur is soft and +silky and dark brown in color. Where the gopher is there may be found +the weasel, his greatest enemy. It should be an even fight between them, +for they are equally matched in ill-temper and savageness, and are near +of a size though the gopher is the heavier. + + +=Antelope= + +On the great plains of the west you may still see the beautiful and +gentle antelope, though that animal is fast disappearing, while the +thieving coyote thrives and multiplies in the same region. + + +=Coyote, Prairie-Wolf= + +The coyote, or prairie-wolf, is about the size of a large dog and +resembles one. Its color is gray, made by a mixture of black and white +hairs. It is a cowardly animal and not dangerous, but its contemptible +character could not prevent a wave of compassion that came over me when +I saw one poor creature caged in a wooden box and holding up the bloody +stump where its fore foot had been torn off by the cruel and barbarous +steel trap. + + +=Spermophile= + +In the Middle West, especially in Indiana, the little spermophile, +sometimes called the ground-squirrel, is common and not afraid to +venture into the outskirts of a village. One variety wears spotted brown +and yellow stripes down its back, another is gray, but all are about +the size of a gray squirrel. On the western prairies are the comical +little prairie-dogs. You can see them sitting up on their haunches +watching the train as it carries you over the great plains. + +[Illustration: Antelopes of the western plains.] + + +=Bobolink= + +The birds of the open are varied and many. Most of the forest birds are +seen occasionally in the fields, but some birds make their homes in the +open. You will find the bobolink's nest in a hay-field or down among the +red clover. The bobolink of the north is a sweet singer and is pretty in +his black and white feathers with a touch of yellow at the back of his +head. There are creamy-yellow feathers down his back, too, but they are +not noticeable. When he goes south the male loses his pretty coat and, +clad like his mate in yellowish-brown, is known as the rice-bird because +he feeds on the rice crops. Here he is killed because he is considered a +robber, and eaten because he is considered a delicacy. + + +=Meadow-Lark= + +Early spring trailing through the meadows will bring you the cheery song +of the meadow-lark: "Spring-o-the-year!" Stalk him carefully and you +will find a large brown bird with yellow breast and a black crescent on +his throat. The meadow-lark is about the size of a quail. He stands +erect when he sings, and he has a rather long beak. The nest can be +found, if you look for it, but is generally out of sight under a +loosened clod of earth or tuft of grass. + + +=Red-Winged Blackbird= + +The red-winged blackbird with his sweet call of "O-ka-lie," or +"Ouchee-la-ree-e!" you will also find on the meadows and marshes. He +builds his nest among the reeds and is one of the first of our spring +birds in the north. + + +=Song Sparrow= + +The little song sparrow loves the open and the hot summer sunshine. +Trailing along a country road at midday, when most of the other birds +are still, you will find the song sparrow sitting on a rail fence +singing with undiminished enthusiasm. + +To make friends with the birds provide food and water for them, then sit +down and wait quietly until they appear. Let them become accustomed to +seeing you sitting still every day for a while, then begin slow, careful +movements, gradually becoming more natural, and in time the birds will +allow you to walk among them as you please, if you are careful never to +frighten them. You can do this in camp; you can do it at home if you are +not living in a city. The trustful friendship of animals and birds opens +a new path of happiness and one that all girls should be able, in some +measure, to enjoy. + + + + +CHAPTER VII + +WILD FOOD ON THE TRAIL + +=Edible Fruits, Nuts, Roots, and Plants= + + +While wild foods gathered on the trail give a delightful variety to camp +fare, be advised and do not gather, still less eat, them unless you are +absolutely sure you know what they are and that they are not poisonous. +You must be able to identify a thing with certainty before tasting in +order to enjoy it in safety. It is well worth while to make a study of +the wild-growing foods, but in the meantime this chapter will help you +to know some of them. _The italicized names are of the things I know to +be edible from personal experience._ You are probably well acquainted +with the common wild fruits such as the raspberry, strawberry, +blackberry, blueberry, and huckleberry, but there are varieties of these +and all will bear description. + + +=Red Raspberry= + +The wild berry often has a more delicious flavor and perfume than the +cultivated one of the same species. Nothing can approach the wonderful +and delicate flavor of the little wild strawberry, unless it is the wild +red raspberry; and the fully ripe wild blackberry holds a spicy +sweetness that makes the garden blackberry taste tame and flat in +comparison. + +The _wild red raspberry_ is found in open fields and growing along +fences and the sides of the road. The flowers are white and grow in +loose clusters, while the berry, when fully ripe, is a deep, translucent +red. The bush is shrubby, is generally about waist-high, and the stems +bear small, hooked prickles. The leaves are what is called compound, +being composed of three or five leaflets, usually three, which branch +out from the main stem like the leaves of the rose-bush. The edges of +the leaves are irregularly toothed. + +The berry is cup-shaped and fits over a core which is called the +receptacle, and from which it loosens when ripe to drop easily into your +hand, leaving the receptacle and calyx on the stem. The sweet, +far-carrying perfume of the gathered wild red raspberry will always +identify it. The season for fruit is July and August. + + +=Black Raspberry= + +The growth and leaves of the _wild black raspberry_ are like those of +the red raspberry, and it is found in the same localities. The fruit, +like the other, is cup or thimble shaped and grows on a receptacle from +which it loosens when fully ripe. Blackcaps, these berries are often +called. They ripen in July. The berry is sometimes a little dry, but the +flavor is sweet and fine. + + +=Purple-Flowering Raspberry= + +The purple-flowering raspberry is acid and insipid; it can hardly be +called edible, though it is not poisonous. You will find it clambering +among the rocks on the mountainside and in rocky soil. The leaves are +large and resemble grape leaves, while the flower is large, purplish-red +in color, and grows in loose clusters. + + +=Mountain Raspberry, Cloudberry= + +The usual home of the mountain raspberry, or cloudberry, is on the +mountain-tops among the clouds. You will find it in the White Mountains +and on the coast of Maine, and it has recently been discovered at +Montauk Point, L. I. The fruit has a pleasant flavor of a honey-like +sweetness. The receptacle of the berry is broad and flat, the color is +yellow touched with red where exposed to the sun. It does not grow in +clusters like the other raspberries, but is solitary. The leaves are +roundish with from five to nine lobes, something like the leaves of the +geranium. The plant grows low, is without prickles, and the solitary +flowers are white. In the far north, where it is found in great +profusion, the cloudberry is made into delicious jam. + + +=Wild Strawberry= + +When crossing sandy knolls or open, uncultivated fields and pastures, +the alluring perfume of the _wild strawberry_ will sometimes lead you to +the patch which shows the bright-red little berry on its low-growing +plant. It is common everywhere, though it bears the name of wild +Virginia strawberry. In Latin it is most appropriately called +_Fragaria_, meaning fragrant. The leaves are compound with three +coarsely toothed, hairy leaflets. The small white flowers grow in sparse +clusters on rather long, hairy stems. They have many deep yellow stamens +which are surrounded by the fine white petals. In fruiting time the +leaves are often bright-red. + + +=Low Running Blackberry= + +Among the mountains and hills, down in the valleys, and on the plains; +straggling along roadsides, clinging to fence rails, and sprawling over +rocks, you will find the wild blackberry. There are several varieties, +and blackberries of some kind are common throughout the United States. + +The _low running blackberry_ belongs to the dewberry type and bears the +largest and juiciest berries. It is a trailing vine with compound leaves +of from four to seven leaflets which are double-toothed. The berries are +black and glossy and grow in small clusters. They are sweet and pulpy +when thoroughly ripe and the best ones are those which ripen slowly +under the shelter of the leaves. + +Blackberries grow on a receptacle or core, but unlike the raspberry, +they do not separate from it. When ripe they drop easily from the calyx +carrying the receptacle with them. The flowers are small and white, and +grow in clusters. + + +=Running Swamp Blackberry= + +Perhaps you have seen the blackberry with fruit so small it seems only +partially developed and, like myself, have hesitated to taste it, not +being sure that it was a true blackberry and edible. It takes a good +many of these little berries to make a mouthful, but they are harmless. +They are called the _running swamp blackberry_. They ripen in August and +grow in sandy places as well as in the swamps. There are three leaflets, +seldom more, to the stem, which are blunt at the tip, smooth, shining, +and coarsely toothed. The flowers are small and white, and the stems +prickly. + + +=High-Bush Blackberry= + +Throughout the northern states as far west as Iowa, Kansas, and Missouri +and down to North Carolina, you may find the _high-bush blackberry_. Its +stems are sometimes ten feet high; they are furrowed and thorny and the +bush grows along country roads, by fences, and in the woods. The berries +are sweet, but quite seedy. They grow in long, loose clusters and ripen +in July. + + +=Mountain Blackberry= + +There is another variety called the _mountain blackberry_. It has a +spicy flavor, but the fruit is small and dry. The leaves are more +elongated toward the tip than those of the others and they are finely +toothed. The branches are reddish in color. + + +=Thornless Blackberry= + +The sweetest of all varieties is said to be the thornless blackberry. It +ripens later than the others and has no thorns. The leaves are long and +narrow. + + +=Eastern Wild Gooseberry= + +Among the mountains from Massachusetts to North Carolina, the eastern +wild gooseberry grows. It is said that its flavor is delicious. The +fruit is purplish in color and is free from all prickles. It grows on +slender stems and, like the cultivated gooseberry, is tipped with the +dry calyx. The leaves are small, rather round, and have three or five +lobes. The flowers are greenish and insignificant. The plant is three or +four feet high, with spreading branches and smooth stems. + +[Illustration: WALNUT + +HIGH-BUSH BLUEBERRY + +WINTERGREEN + +Good food on the trail.] + + +=Dwarf Blueberry= + +Perhaps the most satisfactory of all berries when one is really hungry +is the blueberry, of which there are several varieties. The _dwarf +blueberry_ is probably the most common. It is the earliest of the +blueberries to ripen and grows in the thin, sandy, and rocky soil which +is spurned by most other plants. You will find it upon barren hillsides, +in rocky fields, and in dry pine woods. The berries are round, blue, +about the size of peas, and are covered with bloom like the grape. They +grow in thick clusters at the end of the branch and are tipped with fine +calyx teeth. The seeds are so small as to be almost unnoticed and the +soft ripe berry will bruise easily. + +The flavor of all blueberries has a nutty quality which seems to give +the berry more substance as a food. The leaf is rather narrow and +pointed at each end; the under side is a lighter green than the upper +and both are glossy. In the fall the leaves turn red and drop easily. +The bush is low and the branches usually covered with small, white dots. + + +=Low Blueberry= + +Another variety is called the _low blueberry_. It is very much like the +dwarf blueberry, but the bush grows sometimes as high as four feet. It +is stiff and upstanding and prefers the edge of the woods and sheltered +roadsides to the dry open fields. The berries are blue with a grape-like +bloom and, like the first variety, grow in thick clusters at the end of +the branch. You can grab a good handful in passing, so many are there in +a bunch. + + +=High-Bush Blueberry= + +On the _high-bush blueberry_ the color of the berries varies. Some +bushes bear a black, shiny berry, others a smooth, blue, and still +others blue with a bloom. The sizes differ also. The berries grow in +clusters, at times on branches almost bare of leaves; some are sweet, +others sour. The leaves are a pointed oval with the under side lighter +in color than the upper; in some cases the under side is hairy. The +flowers are pinkish and shaped somewhat like a cylinder. The bush grows +occasionally to the height of ten feet, and you will generally find it +in marshy places. I know that it grows by the edge of Teedyuskung Lake +in Pike County, Pa., where our summer camp is located, but it is found +also in pasturelands. + + +=Dangleberry= + +Another variety is called the dangleberry. The berries grow on stems in +loose clusters; they are rather large, of a dark-blue color with a +bloom; they ripen late and are not very plentiful. The pale-green leaves +are large, white, and resinous underneath, and are oval in shape. The +flowers are greenish-pink and hang like bells on slender stems. + + +=Wintergreen. Checkerberry= + +Almost every one knows the little cherry-red _wintergreen berry_ or +_checkerberry_, and almost every one likes its sweet aromatic flavor but +few would care to make a meal of it. The fruit is too dry for hearty +eating and the flavor too decided. The evergreen leaves are leathery in +texture and their flavor is stronger than that of the berry; they are +whitish underneath and dark, glossy green above. They are oval in shape +and have a few small teeth or none at all. The flowers are white, waxy, +and cup-shaped; they hang like bells from their short stems. The plant +grows close to the ground, generally in the woods and moist places. It +is found as far north as Maine and west to Michigan. + +Do not mistake the bunchberry for the wintergreen. It, too, grows low on +the ground, but the bunchberries are in close clusters at the top of the +small plant where the leaves radiate. The berries are bright scarlet, +round and smooth, and are _not_ edible. Flower and leaf resemble those +of the dogwood-tree, to which family the bunchberry belongs. + + +=Partridgeberry= + +Another ground berry is the partridgeberry. This may be eaten but is dry +and rather tasteless. It is a red berry and grows on a slender, trailing +vine. Its leaves are small and heart-shaped; some are veined with white. +They are evergreen. The flowers grow in pairs and are like four-pointed +stars at the ends of slender tubes. Inside they are creamy white, +outside a delicate pink. The partridgeberry likes pine forests and dry +woods. + + +=June-Berry. Shadbush= + +There are berries on trees as well as on bushes and vines, at least they +are called berries though not always resembling them. + +The June-berry is a tree from ten to thirty feet in height, while its +close relative, the shadbush, is a low tree and sometimes a shrub. The +fruit resembles the seed-vessels of the rose; it grows in clusters and +is graded in color from red to violet; it has a slight bloom and the +calyx shows at the summit. It ripens in June and is said to be sweet and +delicious in flavor. The oblong leaves are sharply toothed, rounded at +the base and pointed at the tip. The young leaves are hairy. The flowers +are white and grow in clusters. + +The shadbush grows in wet places and its fruit is smaller and on shorter +stems. It is also said to be more juicy. The leaves are rather woolly. + +[Illustration: PERSIMMON + +SWEET VIBURNUM + +Fruits found principally in the south and the middle west.] + + +=Red Mulberry= + +Although the finest _mulberry-trees_ are said to be found along the +Mississippi and the lower Ohio Rivers, I have seen large, thrifty trees +in Connecticut and on Long Island. They grow from Massachusetts to +Florida and west to Nebraska. Birds are very fond of the mulberry. The +first rose-breasted grosbeaks I ever saw were in a great mulberry-tree +on a farm in the northern part of Connecticut. The berry is shaped much +like a blackberry; it is juicy and sweet, but lacks flavor. It grows on +a short stem and is about an inch in length. In July when the berry +ripens it is a dark purple. + +There is a decided variety in the shape of the leaves on one tree; some +have seven lobes, some none at all. The edges of most are scalloped, +though I have seen leaves with smooth edges. + +The _white mulberry_ is seldom found growing wild. The fruit is like the +red mulberry but perfectly white. + + +=Sweet Viburnum. Nanny-Berry. Sheepberry= + +The fruit of the sweet viburnum, nanny-berry or sheepberry, is said to +be edible. It grows on a small tree, of the honeysuckle family, in the +woods and by the streams from Canada to Georgia and west as far as +Missouri. The tree has a rusty, scaly bark and broad, oval leaves, +pointed at the tip and finely toothed. The flower clusters are large +and, though white, they appear yellowish from the many yellow anthers at +the centre. When entirely ripe the fruit is a dark blue or black and is +covered with a bloom; before ripening it is crimson. The berry grows in +clusters on slender red stems. It is elongated and rather large. At its +summit is the calyx and stigma. The seed inside the berry is a stone +which is flattened, blunt-pointed, and grooved. The fruit ripens in +September and October. + + +=Large-Fruited Thorn= + +The thorns, large-fruited and scarlet, are edible. As a child I knew the +fruit as _haws_ and was very fond of it. The large-fruited thorn is a +low tree with branches spreading out horizontally. You will often find +it in thickets. The bark is rough and the thorns on the branches are +long, sharp, and of a light-brown color. In flavor the fruit is sweet +and apple-like; the flesh is dry and mealy; it grows on hairy stems and +the seeds are hard, rounded, and grooved. The summit is tipped with the +calyx and it ripens in September. The leaves are thick, narrowed at the +base, and rounded at the ends, with veins underneath that are prominent +and often hairy. + + +=Black Haw. Stag-Bush= + +The fruit of the black haw, or stag-bush, is not edible until after +frost has touched it. It is oval, dark blue with bloom, and about half +an inch long. It grows in stiff clusters on short, branching stems. The +shrub, which is sometimes a small tree, is bushy and crooked, with stout +and spreading branches. It is found from Connecticut to Georgia and as +far west as the Indian Territory. It grows among the underbrush in +forests. The bark is scaly and of a reddish-brown color, the leaves are +dark green and smooth on the upper side, paler and sometimes covered +with matted hair on the under side, where the veins show prominently; +they are two or three inches long and generally oval in shape with no +teeth. The flowers are cream-white and grow in flat-topped clusters. + + +=Wild Plums. Canada Plum= + +There is a wild plum that is found in our New England States and in +Canada known as the Canada plum. The plant grows along fences, in +thickets, and by the side of streams. The plum is from one inch to one +and a half inches long and is red or orange in color. It has a tough +skin and a flat stone. The flavor is considered pleasant but the fruit +is generally used for preserving. The leaves have long, sharp points at +the ends and are rather heart-shaped at the base. The flowers, white in +bud, change to pink when opened. They grow in thin clusters. + + +=Beach Plum= + +Usually on sandy and stony beaches, though at times farther inland, you +may find the beach plum. It is a low shrub and grows in clumps. The +fruit is apt to be abundant and is sweet when quite ripe. This plum, +also, is used for preserving. The color of the fruit is from red to +red-purple, it has a bloom over it and grows on a slender stem. The thin +stone is rounded on one edge, sharp on the other, and generally has +pointed ends. The fruit ripens in August and September. The leaf is +oval, has a sharp-pointed tip, is rounded at the base, and has fine, +forward-pointed teeth. There are many white flowers which grow in +clusters along the branches. + + +=Wild Red Cherry= + +The wild red cherry is sour but edible; it is best used as preserves. +The tree is usually small yet sometimes reaches the height of thirty +feet. It is oftenest found in the woods of the north, but also grows +among the mountains as far south as Tennessee. The bark is a +reddish-brown and has rusty dots over it. The leaves are oblong, pointed +at the tips and rather blunt at the base. They are bright green and +glossy. The white flower is much like the cultivated cherry blossom but +smaller; it grows in clusters. The cherries are light red and about the +size of a pea. + +[Illustration: CANADA PLUM + +SCARLET HAW + +WILD BLACK CHERRY + +Fruits found principally in the north and the middle west.] + + +=Sand-Cherry= + +Growing in the sand along our eastern coast as far south as New Jersey +and sometimes on the shores of the Great Lakes, the sand-cherry is +found. It is a low, trailing bush, but in some cases sends up erect +branches as high as four feet. The fruit is dark red--black when quite +ripe--and about half an inch long. It grows in small clusters or +solitary, and is said to be sweet and edible. The leaves, dark green on +the upper side, are lighter underneath; they are rather narrow, broadest +toward the end and tapering at the base. The edge is toothed almost to +the base. The flowers are white and thinly clustered. + + +=Persimmon= + +In the Southern, Western, and Middle States, some say as far north as +New York, grows the _persimmon_. Deliciously sweet and spicy when frost +has ripened it, very astringent until ripe. It is plentiful in Kentucky +and one of my earliest memories is of going to market with my mother in +the fall to buy persimmons. There I learned to avoid the fair, perfect +fruit, though to all appearances it was quite ripe, and to choose that +which looked bruised and broken. + +The persimmon is about the size of a plum, but is flattened at the +poles. It grows close to the branch and its calyx is large. The color is +yellow generally flushed with red. Some writers describe it as juicy, +but I would not call it that; the flesh is more like custard or soft +jelly. + +The tree usually varies in height from thirty to fifty feet, but in some +places is said to reach one hundred or more feet. The trunk is short and +the branches spreading. In the south it often forms a thicket in +uncultivated fields and along roadsides. The bark is dark brown or dark +gray, the surface is scaly and divided into plates. The leaves are +usually a narrow oval with smooth edges; when matured they are dark +green and glossy on the upper side, underneath pale and often downy. The +flower is a creamy-white or greenish-yellow. + + +=Papaw= + +The papaw is another fruit I knew well as a child. It is sometimes +called custard-apple because the flesh resembles soft custard. As I +write I can almost taste the, to me, sickish sweetness of the fruit and +feel the large, smooth, flat seeds in my mouth. In shape the papaw +somewhat resembles the banana, the texture of the skin is the same, but +the surface of the papaw is smoothly rounded and it is shorter and +thicker than the banana, being usually from three to five inches long. +It ripens in September and October. The tree is small, often a shrub, +and it grows wild no farther north than western New York. + +There are some cultivated papaw-trees on Long Island, but I do not think +they bear fruit. Certainly none that I have seen have ever fruited. You +will find the tree as far south as Florida and Texas, through the Middle +States and west to Michigan and Kansas. It flourishes in the bottom +lands of the Mississippi Valley and seeks the shade of the forests. The +bark is dark brown with gray blotches; the leaves are large, being from +two to twelve inches long and four inches wide. They are oval, pointed +at the tip and narrowed at the base. When matured they are smooth, dark +green on the upper side and paler beneath. At first the flower is as +green as the leaves, but finally turns a deep red-purple. It grows close +to the branch and is solitary. + + +=May-Apple= + +One of the most delicious wild fruits we have is the _May-apple_ or +_mandrake_. It is finely flavored, sweet and juicy, but being a laxative +one must eat of it sparingly. It is most common in the Middle States and +reaches perfection in Ohio. + +The plant is from twelve to eighteen inches high, and the large +umbrella-like leaves are lifted on smooth, straight stems. The fruit +usually grows from the fork of two leaves. It is yellow, lemon-shaped, +and about the size of a plum. The flesh is like that of the plum and +there are numerous seeds in fleshy seed coverings. It ripens in July and +is quite soft when fully ripe. I have sometimes gathered the firm, +yellow May-apples, put them away in a cool, dark, dry place to ripen, +and in taking them out have found them in prime condition. They will +ripen in this way without spoiling if not allowed to touch one another. + +The leaves frequently measure a foot in diameter; they have from five to +nine lobes, which are notched and pointed at the tips; the upper side is +darker than the lower. While the fruit of the May-apple is edible, the +leaves and root are poisonous, not to the touch but to the taste. The +flower is a clear white with from eight to twelve rounding petals and it +generally measures about one and a half inches across. The petals expand +in the morning, become erect in the afternoon, and close at night. We +are told that the May-apple is a roadside plant, but I have found it +only in the woods. + + +=Wild Grapes= + +There are several varieties of wild grapes, all, I think, edible but not +all pleasant to the taste. The fox-grape is sweet, but has a musky +flavor and odor, a thick skin, and a tough pulp. The fruit ripens in +September but few care to eat it. The vine grows luxuriantly and is very +common. The summer grape is another tough-skinned grape. It is not musky +but is generally astringent. The vine resembles the fox-grape in growth, +being strong and vigorous. The fruit of the blue grape is sour and hangs +in long, heavy clusters. It is usually found along water-ways. + +[Illustration: MAY APPLE MANDRAKE + +PARTRIDGE BERRY + +Fruits common to most of the States.] + + +=Frost-Grape or Chicken-Grape= + +If you try to eat the _frost-grapes_ before frost you will find them +decidedly sour, but after a good frost they are really fine. They have a +snappy, spicy flavor all their own, and one eats them, like currants, +skin and all. They are small, round, and black with a slight bloom. The +clusters are well-filled and hang loosely. The vine grows luxuriantly, +branching from a large trunk, and is found in wet places and on the +banks of streams, though it does well in the open and in drier soil. It +flourishes in New England and down to Illinois and westward to Nebraska. +The leaves usually suggest three lobes but are mostly undivided. They +are coarsely toothed and the under side bears occasional hairs along the +veins. + + +=Wild Nuts. Black Walnuts= + +Of all the wild-growing foods, nuts are, perhaps, the most nutritious. +The _black walnut_, not plentiful in the Atlantic States but abundant in +the Middle States and in the Mississippi Valley, has a rich, wild +flavor, and a deep-brown stain for the hands that tear it from its +ball-like covering of tough, pimply green which forms the outer husk. +The nut is sometimes oblong, sometimes almost round, with a deeply +grooved, hard, brown shell. It grows in pairs or solitary. The tree is +large, often reaching the height of one hundred feet, and its trunk is +from four to six feet in diameter. The bark is dark brown with deep +vertical grooves and its surface is broken with thick scales. The leaves +are compound, growing on a middle stem which is sometimes two feet long. +Each leaflet is a narrow oval, sharply pointed at the end, and usually +about three inches long. The nuts require frost to ripen them. + + +=Butternut= + +While the _butternut-tree_ is much like the walnut in general +appearance, it does not grow as large. The nuts are different in shape +and in flavor, and the leaflets are hairy instead of smooth. The +butternut does not grow as far north as the walnut, but is often found +side by side with the walnut in the Middle States. The green outer +covering of the nut is oblong and sticky on the surface, and, like the +walnut, will stain the hands. The shell is hard, brown, oblong, and +pointed at one end. It is deeply grooved. The flavor is rich but the nut +being oily soon becomes rancid. + + +=Hickory-Nuts= + +In gathering hickory-nuts you must be able to distinguish between the +edible variety and others that are fair on the outside but bitter +within. There are nine varieties of hickory-nut trees, and in general +appearance they are alike. All have compound leaves and the leaflets are +larger and fewer to the stem than the walnut, usually numbering from +five to eleven. The nuts grow in small clusters as a rule, often in +pairs, and the outer husk separates when ripe into four pieces, allowing +the nut to drop out clean and dry. The full-grown tree is of good size +and is found almost everywhere in the United States. + + +=Shellbark. Shagbark= + +The _shellbark_ or shagbark hickory-nut is one of the best. The flavor, +as every one knows, is sweet and pleasant. It is the bark of the tree +that gives it the name of shagbark, for it separates into long, ragged +strips several inches wide which generally hold to the trunk at the +middle and give it an unkempt, shaggy appearance. + + +=Mockernut= + +The _mockernut_ is the hickory-nut with a dark, brownish-colored shell, +hard and thick and not easily cracked. It is called the mockernut +because while the nut is large, usually larger than the shellbark, the +kernel is very small and difficult to take out of the thick shell. + + +=Pignut= + +I will italicize the _pignut_ because, though I have never eaten it, I +once tried to, and the first taste was all-sufficient. Some writers tell +us that the flavor is sweet or slightly bitter. It was the decidedly +bitter kind that I found lying temptingly clean and white under the +tree. The thin outer husk of the pignut is not much larger than the nut. +It is broader at the top than at the stem, where it narrows almost to a +point. The husk does not open as freely as that of the other +hickory-nuts. It is inclined to cling to the nut; in some cases it only +partially opens and drops with the nut. + +[Illustration: SHELLBARK HICKORY NUT + +PIGNUT + +Hickory nuts, sweet and bitter.] + + +=Beechnut= + +One of the sweetest and most delicately flavored of our native nuts is +the little, triangular _beechnut_. The tree is common and widely +distributed, but few people know anything about the nut. In Kentucky the +nuts used to be plentiful, but I have seen none in New York. It is said +that a beech-tree must be fully forty years old before it will bear +fruit, and that may be the reason the nuts are not oftener found. + +The soft-shelled nut is very small, no larger than the tip of your +little finger. The color is pale brown, and it is three-sided with sharp +angles. It is contained in a small, prickly husk and grows both solitary +or in clusters of two or three. When touched by frost the burr opens and +allows the nut to fall out while the burr remains on the tree. + +The bark of the beech-tree is ashy gray, and the leaf is oblong, pointed +at the tip, toothed on the edge, and strongly veined. + + +=Chestnut= + +I find that the _chestnut-tree_ is not as well known as its fruit, which +is sold from stands on the street corners of most American cities. A +round, green prickly burr is the husk of the nut, and this is lined +inside with soft, white, velvety down. Nestled closely in this soft bed +lie several dark-brown nuts with soft, polished shells. The first frost +opens the burrs, and the sweet nuts fall to the ground. + +You may recognize the tree in midsummer by its long-tasselled, +cream-white blossoms, which hang in profusion from the ends of the +branches. The chestnut is the only forest-tree that blossoms at that +time, so you cannot mistake it. Later you will know it by the prickly +green burrs, which develop quickly. The tree is large and common to most +States. The leaves are from six to eight inches long; they are coarsely +toothed at the edges, sharply pointed at the end, and are prominently +veined on the under side. They grow mostly in tufts drooping from a +common centre. + +[Illustration: Nuts with soft shells. Beechnut and chestnut.] + + +=Bark and Roots of Trees= + + +=Slippery-Elm= + +The inner bark and the root of the _slippery-elm_ are not only pleasant +to the taste but are said to be nutritious. They have a glutinous +quality that gives the tree its name, and the flavor is nutty and +substantial. + +This variety of elm is common and is found from the Saint Lawrence River +to Florida. It grows to a height of sixty or seventy feet, with +spreading branches which flatten at the top. The outline of the tree is +much like that of a champagne-glass, wide at the top and narrow at the +stem. The slippery-elm resembles the white elm, but there are +differences by which you can know it. If you stroke the leaf of a white +elm you will find that it is rough one way but smooth the other; stroke +the leaf of the slippery-elm, and it will be rough _both_ ways. The buds +of the white elm are smooth, those of the slippery-elm are _hairy_. Then +you cannot mistake the inner bark of the slippery-elm, which is +fragrant, thick, and gummy. The outer bark is dark brown, with shallow +ridges and large, loose plates. The leaves are oblong, rounded at the +base, and are coarsely toothed. They are prominently veined and are dark +green, paler on the under side. + + +=Sassafras= + +The _sassafras_ grows wild from Massachusetts to Florida, and west +through the Mississippi Valley. It is generally a small tree, from +thirty to fifty feet high, and is often found growing in dense thickets +in uncultivated fields. The edible bark is dark red-brown. It is thick +but not hard and is deeply ridged and scaled. The cracked bark is one +of the characteristics of the tree; it begins to split when the tree is +about three years old. The strong aromatic flavor is held by the bark, +the wood, the roots, the stems, and the leaves. I have never tasted the +fruit, which is berry-like, dark blue, and glossy, and is held by a +thick, scarlet calyx; but the birds are fond of it. + +Sassafras tea was at one time considered the best of spring medicines +for purifying the blood, and the bark was brought to market cut in short +lengths and tied together in bunches. + +The leaves are varied; on one twig there will sometimes be three +differently shaped leaves. Some will be oval, some with three lobes, and +some mitten-shaped; that is, an oval leaf with a side lobe like the +thumb of a mitten. + + +=Salads. Watercress= + +There is no more refreshing salad than the _watercress_ gathered fresh +from a cool, running brook. It is a common plant, found almost anywhere +in streams and brooks. Its smooth green or brownish leaves lie on the +top of the water; they are compound, with from three to nine small +rounded leaflets. The flavor is peppery and pungent. Watercress +sandwiches are good. The white flowers are small and insignificant and +grow in a small cluster at the end of the stem. + + +=Dandelion= + +A salad of tender, young _dandelion_ leaves is not to be despised, and +the plant grows everywhere. Only the very young leaves, that come up +almost white in the spring, are good. The flavor is slightly bitter with +the wholesome bitterness one likes in the spring of the year. These +young leaves are also good when cooked like spinach. The plant is so +common it does not really call for a description, and if you know it you +can skip the following: + +Growing low on the ground, sometimes with leaves lying flat on the +surface, the dandelion sends up a hollow, leafless stem crowned with a +bright-yellow, many-petalled flower about the size of a silver +fifty-cent piece. The seed head is a round ball of white down. The +leaves are deeply notched, much like thistle leaves, but they have no +prickles. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII + +LITTLE FOES OF THE TRAILER + +=Poisonous Insects, Reptiles, and Plants= + + +=Insects= + + +My first experience with wood-ticks, jiggers, and Jersey mosquitoes was +during the summer we spent at Bayville, near Toms River, N. J. In many +ways Bayville, with its sand, its pines, its beautiful wood roads, and +rare wild flowers, is an interesting and attractive place. The salty air +is fine when the thermometer is self-respecting and keeps the mercury +below 90 deg. in the shade, but the oak underbrush harbors wood-ticks, the +blackberry bushes cover you with jiggers, the woods are full of +deer-flies, and the vicious mosquito, whose name is Legion, is +everywhere where he is not barred out. + + +=Wood-Ticks= + +I had been told of the ticks that infest the forests of the South, had +heard blood-curdling stories of how they sometimes bury themselves, +entire, in the flesh of animals and men and have to be cut out, and my +horror of them was great. In reality I found them unpleasant enough but, +as far as we were concerned, comparatively harmless. + +The wood-tick is a small, rather disgusting-looking creature which, in +appearance and size, resembles the common bedbug. It fastens itself upon +you without your knowledge and you do not feel it even when it begins +to suck your blood, but something generally impels you to pass your +hand over the back of your neck, or cheek, where the thing is clinging, +and, feeling the lump, you pull it off and no great harm done. The tick +is supposed always to bury its head in the flesh, and it is said that if +the head is left in when the bug is pulled off an ugly sore will be the +result. We had no experience of that kind, however, nor, in our hurry to +get rid of it, did we stop to remove the bug scientifically by dropping +oil on it, as Kephart advises, but just naturally and simply, also +vigorously, we grasped it between thumb and forefinger and hastily +plucked it off. The effect of the bite was no worse on any of our party +than that of the Jersey mosquito. + +Often your friends will see a tick on you and tell you of it even while +they have several, all unknown to themselves, decorating their own +countenance. The name by which science knows this unlovely bug is +_Ixodes leech_. + + +=Jigger. Redbug. Mite= + +The tiny mite called by the natives jigger and redbug is more annoying +than the wood-tick, one reason being that there are so many more of him. +He really does penetrate the skin, and his wanderings under the surface +give one the feeling of an itching rash which covers the body. You won't +see the jigger--he is too small, but if you invade his domain you will +certainly feel him. + + +=Deer-Fly= + +The deer-fly will bite and bite hard enough to hurt. It will drive its +sharp mandibles into your skin with such force as to take out a bit of +the flesh, sometimes causing the blood to flow, but the bite does not +seem particularly poisonous, though you feel it at the time and it +generally raises a lump on the flesh. The deer-fly belongs to the +family of gadflies. It is larger than a house-fly and its wings stand +out at right angles to its body. It will not trouble you much except in +the woods. + + +=Black-Fly= + +The Adirondack and North Woods region is not only the resort of hunters, +campers, and seekers after health and pleasure, but it is also the haunt +of the maddening black-fly. From early spring until the middle of July +or first of August the black-fly holds the territory; then it evacuates +and is seen no more until next season, when it begins a new campaign. + +Under the name of buffalo-fly the black-fly is found in the west, where, +on the prairies, it has been known to wage war on horses until death +ensued--death of the horses, not of the fly. It is a small fly about +one-sixth of an inch long, thick-bodied, and black. It is said to have +broad silvery circles on its legs, but no one ever stops to look at +these. Its proboscis is developed to draw blood freely, and it is always +in working order. + +The only virtue the black-fly seems to have is its habit of quitting +operations at sundown and leaving to other tormenters the task of +keeping you awake at night. When the black-fly bites you will know it, +and it will leave its mark, when it does leave, which must generally be +by your help, for it holds on with commendable persistence. If you would +learn more of this charming insect, look for _Simulium molestum_ in a +book which treats the subject scientifically. + + +=No-see-um. Punky. Midge= + +There is another pest of the North Woods which the guides call the +no-see-um. It is a very diminutive midge resembling the mosquito in +form and viciousness, but so small as to be almost invisible. Night and +day are the same to the no-see-um; its warfare is continuous and its +bite very annoying, but it disappears with the black-fly in July or +August. By September the mountains and woods are swept clear of all +these troublesome things, except at times and in some places the +ever-hungry mosquito, which will linger on for a last bite in his summer +feast. + +The only way to relieve the irritation caused by the bites of these +pests, including the mosquito, is to bathe the affected parts with +camphor, alcohol, or diluted ammonia. When there are but one or two +bites they may be touched with strong ammonia, but it will not do to use +this too freely, as it will burn the skin. + + +=Gnats= + +In the mountains of Pennsylvania the most troublesome insects I found +were the tiny gnats that persist in flying into one's eyes in a very +exasperating fashion. They swarm in a cloud in front of your face as you +walk and make constant dashes at your eyes, although to reach their goal +brings instant death. + +It is not much trouble to get one of these gnats out of your eye when it +once gets in. All that is necessary is to take the eyelashes of the +upper eyelid between your thumb and first finger, and draw the upper +eyelid down _over_ the under eyelid. The under eyelashes sweep the upper +lid clear, and the rush of tears that comes to the eye washes the insect +out. + + +=Bees, Wasps, and Yellow-Jackets= + +While honey-bees and wasps can make themselves most disagreeable when +disturbed, you can usually keep away from beehives and bee-trees as +well as from the great gray, papery nests of the wasp; but the hornets +or yellow-jackets have an uncomfortable habit of building in low bushes +and on the ground where you may literally put your foot in a hornets' +nest. + +They are hot-tempered little people, these same hornets, as I have +reason to know. Twice I have been punished by them, and both times it +was my head they attacked. Once I found them, or they found me, in a +cherry-tree; and the second time we met was when I stepped in their nest +hidden on the ground. Their sting is like a hot wire pressed into the +flesh. When angered they will chase you and swarm around your head, +stinging whenever they can; but they may be beaten off if some friendly +hand will wield a towel or anything else that comes handy. + +If the stings of any of these stinging insects are left in the wounds +they should be taken out with a _clean_ needle or _clean_ knife-blade. +In any case mix some mud into a paste and plaster it on the parts that +have been stung. If you are in camp and have with you a can of +antiphlogistine use that instead of the mud; it is at least more sightly +and is equally efficient in reducing inflammation. + +Various things have been devised as protection against insect torments. + +One is a veil of net to be worn over the hat. You will find this +described in Chapter IV under the heading of Personal Outfits. + + +=Dopes= + +Then there are dopes to be rubbed over the face, neck, and hands. The +three said to be the best are Nessmuk's Dope, Breck's Dope, and H. P. +Wells's Bug-Juice. There is also a Rexall preparation which, I am told, +is good while it stays on, but will wash off with perspiration. + + +=Nessmuk's Dope= + +In giving the recipe for his dope, Nessmuk says that it produces a glaze +over the skin and that in preventing insect bites he has never known it +to fail. This is the dope: + + Pine tar 3 oz. + Castor oil 2 oz. + Oil of pennyroyal 1 oz. + + Simmer all together over a slow fire, and bottle. + + This is sufficient for four persons for two weeks. + + +=Breck's Dope= + + Pine tar 3 oz. + Olive (or castor oil) 2 oz. + Oil of pennyroyal 1 oz. + Citronella 1 oz. + Creosote 1 oz. + Camphor (pulverized) 1 oz. + Large tube of carbolated vaseline. + + Heat the tar and oil, and add the other + ingredients; simmer over slow fire until well + mixed. The tar may be omitted if disliked or for + ladies' use. + +Breck tells us that his dope was planned to be a counter-irritant after +being bitten as well as a preventer of bites. + + +=H. P. Wells's Bug-Juice= + + Olive oil 1/2 pt. + Creosote 1 oz. + Pennyroyal 1 oz. + Camphor 1 oz. + + Dissolve camphor in alcohol and mix. + +Any dope must be well rubbed in on face, neck, ears, and _behind ears_, +hands (on the backs), wrists, and arms; but be very careful not to get +it _in your eyes_. + + +=Smudges= + +Smudges are said to afford relief in camp, but my own experience has +been that the insects can stand them better than I. A smudge is made by +burning things that make little flame and much smoke. Dead leaves, not +too dry, will make a fairly good smudge, but a better way is to burn +damp cedar bark, or branches, on piles of hot coals taken from the +camp-fire and kept alive at different sides of the camp. + +The accounts of extreme suffering caused by insect bites come from +unusually sensitive people. All people are not affected alike. Two +persons from one camp will tell entirely different stories of their +experience with insects. The best way to encounter these, as all other +annoyances, is to protect yourself as well as you can and then, without +whimpering, make the best of the situation. All the pests described will +not fall upon you at once, and, taken singly or even doubly, you will +manage to survive the ordeal. If the pleasure of the trail did not +over-balance the pain there would be fewer campers to relate their +troubles. + + +=Snakes= + +The bite of a poisonous snake is by all means to be avoided, and the +point is: you almost always can avoid it. With all the snakes in the +United States, Doctor William T. Hornaday, director of the Zoological +Park of New York City, tells us that out of seventy-five million people +not more than two die each year of snake-bites. + +Snakes are not man-hunters; they will not track you down; they much +prefer to keep out of your way. What you have to do is to keep out of +theirs. In a region where poisonous snakes abound it is well to wear +khaki leggins as a protection in case you inadvertently step too near +and anger the creatures, for in such cases they sometimes strike before +you have time to beat a retreat. According to Doctor Hornaday, the +poisonous snakes of North America are: + + The rattlesnake, + Water-moccasin, + Copperhead, + Sonora coral-snake, + Harlequin snake. + + +=Rattlesnakes= + +The rattlesnake appears to vary in color and markings in the different +localities where it is found, and there are fourteen or fifteen +varieties, but all carry the rattles, shake them warningly, and coil +before they strike. The rattlesnake does not want to fight and if you +keep at a safe distance it will glide off in another direction, but it +is safest not to venture within striking distance, which is said to be +two-thirds the length of the snake, even if the snake has not coiled, +for it moves quickly and strikes like a flash. + +The rattles are at the extreme end of the tail and are composed of horny +joints. The sound of the rattle is much like the humming of a locust +(cicada). Rattlesnakes are often found sunning themselves on large +rocks, and stone-quarries are the chosen winter quarters where whole +colonies assemble. They are also found, during the summer, among +underbrush and in stubble-fields, where they probably go to hunt +field-mice and other small mammals. + +[Illustration: BANDED RATTLESNAKE + +POISONOUS + +WATER-MOCCASIN + +POISONOUS + +RED-BELLIED WATER-SNAKE + +STRIPED LENGTHWISE + +HARMLESS + +Poisonous and non-poisonous snakes.] + + +=Banded Rattlesnake= + +The mountains of Pennsylvania are a favorite resort of the rattlesnake, +but, though I have passed many summers in Pike County, famous for its +snakes, the only live one I ever saw in that locality was in a box at +Rowland station. The men of our party occasionally killed one and +brought it to camp as a trophy, but one of our weekend guests spent most +of his time hunting the rattler that he might take its skin back to the +city, yet without success. + +It is the banded rattlesnake that is usually found in Pennsylvania. The +color is yellowish and it is marked with irregular, wide bands of dark +brown. Sometimes the snake is almost black, and it is thought that it +turns dark with age. + + +=Diamond Rattlesnake= + +The rattlesnake marked in diamond patterns of gold outline on brown is +of the south and is oftenest found in Florida. This is a very large +snake, and closely allied to it is the Texas rattlesnake, which is the +same in markings and color, but paler, as if faded out. + + +=Massasauga= + +The massasauga is the rattlesnake occasionally found in the swamps from +western New York to Nebraska, but it is rare. Its color is light brown +with patches of dark brown its entire length. + + +=Copperhead= + +The copperhead is not a rattler, though its vibrating tail amid dry +leaves will sometimes hum like one. (This is also true of the +blacksnake.) Its bite is very poisonous. It is found amid rocks and in +the woods, and is at home from New England and the Atlantic coast west +to Indiana and south to Texas. This snake is seldom more than three +feet long. Its color is light reddish-brown with bands of rich chestnut +which are narrow on the back and wide at the sides. The underpart is +whitish with dark spots on the abdomen. The head is generally coppery in +color but not always. In Texas the colors of the copperhead are +stronger, the bands and head are decidedly reddish, and the bands have +narrow white borders. + + +=Harlequin Snake and Coral-Snake= + +The harlequin snake and the coral-snake are so similar in color and in +habits, one description for both will answer our purpose. They are +southern snakes, beginning in southern Indiana and extending south. They +are quite poisonous, but of such retiring habits as hardly to be classed +as dangerous. Most of their time is spent hidden under the sand and in +the ground, but when they do come out their colors are so brilliant as +not to be mistaken. On the harlequin snake the colors are bright +coral-red, yellow, and black, which alternate in stripes that encircle +the body. Its head is always banded with a broad yellow stripe. The +coral-snake is much the same in color, and only a close observer would +notice the difference. The coral-snake is also found in Arizona. + + +=Water-Moccasin, Cottonmouth= + +The water-moccasin is ugly, and ugly all the way through. Its deadly +viciousness is not redeemed by any outward beauty. Its average length is +three and a half feet, though it is occasionally longer. Its unlovely +body is thick and the color of greenish mud; the sides are paler and +have wide, blackish bands. There are dark bands from the eyes to the +mouth and above them there are pale streaks. The top of the head is very +dark. The abdomen is yellow with splashes of brown or black. Heavy +shields overhang the eyes and give a sinister expression to their angry +glare. When suddenly approached the moccasin opens wide its white-lined +mouth, and one then understands why it is called cottonmouth. + +This snake does not coil before its strikes, but vibrates its tail +slowly and watches its prey with mouth open. The moccasin is decidedly a +southern snake, and girls of the south know that its home is along the +edges of bayous and in the swamps. It is frequently seen with its head +and a small part of its body out of water while the rest is submerged, +but at times it will be found on a water-soaked log or on underbrush and +low boughs of trees that overhang the water. The bite is very poisonous. + + +=Other Snakes= + +There are many other snakes in the United States, but they are not +venomous. Here is one thing to remember: you need never fear a snake +found in this country which has _lengthwise stripes_, that is, stripes +running from head to tail. Daniel C. Beard tells me that he has learned +this from observation, and Raymond L. Ditmars, curator of reptiles in +the New York Zoological Park, agrees with him. + +While the lengthwise-striped snakes are harmless, others not striped in +this way are harmless, too. The blacksnake, though he looks an ugly +customer and, when cornered, will sometimes show fight, is not venomous +and his bite is not deep. It is, therefore, wanton cruelty to kill every +snake that crosses your path simply because it happens to be a snake. +Kephart, in his book of "Camping and Woodcraft," says in regard to +identifying the poisonous snake: + +"The rattlesnake, copperhead, and cottonmouth are easily distinguished +from all other snakes, as all three of them bear a peculiar mark, or +rather a pair of marks, that no other animal possesses. This mark is +the _pit_, which is a deep cavity on each side of the face between the +nostrils and the eye, sinking into the upper jaw-bone." + +If, when one has been bitten and the snake killed, an examination is +made of its head, it can be ascertained immediately whether the snake +was venomous, and in this way unnecessary fright may be avoided. + + +=Beaded Lizard, Gila Monster= + +The only other venomous reptile found in the United States is the beaded +lizard, called Gila monster (pronounced heela). Unless you visit the +desert regions of Arizona and New Mexico, you will not be apt to run +across this most interesting though poisonous reptile. + +The Gila monster looks very much like a unique piece of Indian beadwork, +with its fat body and stubby legs covered with bright-colored, bead-like +tubercles, which form almost a Navajo pattern. Its length is about +nineteen inches, and its beads are colored salmon, flesh-pink, white or +yellow, and black. Though it has the appearance of being stuffed with +cotton, it is really formidable and very much alive. Its jaws are +strong; when it bites it holds on like a bulldog, and there is no way to +force it to open its mouth except to pry the powerful jaws apart. While +otherwise slow of movement, it will turn quickly from side to side, +snapping viciously. The inside of the Gila's mouth is black, and when +angry it opens it wide and hisses. + + +=Treatment for Snake-Bites= + +If the unlikely should chance to happen and one of your party is bitten +by a poisonous snake, first aid should be given _immediately_, and if a +physician is within reach he should be summoned as quickly as possible. +Much depends, however, upon what is done first. Any one can administer +the following treatment, and it should be done without flinching, for it +may mean the saving of a life: + +(1) As soon as the person is bitten twist a tourniquet very tightly +above the wound, that is, between the wound and the heart, to keep the +poison as far as possible from entering the entire system. + +(2) Slash the wound or stab it with a _clean_ knife-blade and force it +to bleed copiously. If there is no break in the skin or membrane of your +mouth or lips and no cavity in any of your teeth, suck the wound to draw +out the poison. + +(3) Give a stimulant in small doses at frequent intervals to stimulate +the heart and lungs and strengthen the nerves, but avoid overdoing this, +for the result will be harmful. + +(4) If you have with you an antivenomous serum, inject it as directed by +the formula that accompanies it. + +Tie a loose bandage around the affected member, a handkerchief, neck +scarf, or even a rope for a tourniquet, to check circulation, as +described in Chapter XII, on Accidents. Every little while loosen the +tourniquet, then tighten it again, for it will not do to stop the +circulation entirely. + +All authorities do not advise sucking the wound, but it is generally +done, for with a perfectly sound and healthy mouth there is no danger, +as the poison enters the system only by contact with the blood. + +Some writers advocate cauterizing the wound with a hot iron; but, +whatever is done, do quickly, and _do not be afraid_. Fear is contagious +and exceedingly harmful to the patient. Remember that a snake-bite is +seldom fatal, and that a swollen arm or leg does not mean that the case +is hopeless. + + +=Poisonous Plants= + +There are two kinds of poisonous plants: those that are poison to the +touch and those that are harmless unless taken inwardly. Both may be +avoided when you learn to identify them. + + +=Poison-Ivy= + +We are apt to think that every one knows the common poison-ivy, but that +some people are not familiar with it was shown when one beautiful autumn +day a young woman passed along our village street carrying a handful of +the sprays of the vine, gathered probably because of their beautiful +coloring. Noticing that she was a stranger, no doubt from the city, and +realizing the danger she was running of poisoning herself or some one +else, we hurriedly caught up with her and gave first aid to the ignorant +in a few forceful remarks. The result was that, without a word, the +young woman simply opened her hand, dropped her vines on the walk, and +hurried off as if to escape a pestilence. We were left to close the +incident by kicking the stuff into the street that some other equally +uninformed person might not be tempted to pick it up. + +If you do not know the poison-ivy, remember this: It is the +_three-leaved ivy_. Its leaves always grow in triplets as shown in +illustration. The leaves are smooth, but not glossy; they have no teeth +but are occasionally notched. Sometimes the plant is bushy, standing a +foot or two high, again it is trailing or climbing. It loves fence +corners and big rocks to clamber over; it will also choose large trees +for support, climbing up to their tops. The flowers are whitish and the +fruit is a pretty, green-gray berry, round and smooth, which grows in +scant clusters. + +Poison-ivy is found through the country from Maine to Texas and west to +South Dakota, Utah, and Arkansas. + +Some people are immune to ivy poison and, happily, I belong to the +fortunate ones. Many persons are poisoned by it, however, and it may be +that fear makes them more susceptible. On some the painful, burning +eruption is difficult to cure. + + +=Poison-Oak= + +The poison-oak closely resembles the poison-ivy, and is sometimes called +by that name, but its leaves are differently shaped, being oval in +outline with a few coarse, blunt teeth. They are also thicker and +smaller than the ivy leaf. The poison-oak is plentiful in cool uplands +and in ravines, and is general throughout the Pacific coast from Lower +California and Arizona to British America. + + +=Poison-Sumach, or Swamp-Sumach= + +Another member of the same family is the poison-sumach. They are all +three equally poisonous and act by contact. The poison, or swamp, sumach +is a high, branching shrub closely resembling the harmless species which +grow on high, dry ground. The poison variety chooses low, wet places. +The leaves of the poison-sumach are compound, with from seven to +thirteen leaflets growing from one stem, as the leaves of the +walnut-tree grow; the stalks are often of a purplish color. The leaflets +are oval in shape and are pointed at the tip. The surface is smooth and +green on both sides and they have no teeth. The autumn coloring is very +brilliant. The flowers are whitish-green and grow in loose clusters from +a stiff middle stalk at the angles of the leaves. The fruit is a +gray-green berry growing in scant, drooping clusters. This _gray +drooping berry is the sumac poison sign_, for the fruit of the +harmless sumach is crimson and is held erect in close pyramidal +clusters. + +Witch-hazel (Pond's Extract) is used as a remedy for all of these +poisons, but it is claimed that a paste made of _cooking-soda_ and water +is better. Alcohol will sometimes be effective, also a strong lye made +of wood-ashes. Salt and water will give relief to some. It seems to +depend upon the person whether the remedy, as well as the poison, will +have effect. + +[Illustration: POISON IVY + +POISON SUMAC + +Plants poison to the touch.] + + +=Yellow Lady's-Slipper= + +Growing in bogs and low woods from Maine to Minnesota and Washington, +southward to Georgia and Missouri, there is a sweet-scented, little +yellow-and-brown flower called the yellow lady's-slipper, the plant of +which is said to have the same effect when handled as poison-ivy. This +flower is an orchid. The stalk, from one to two feet high, bears a +single blossom at the top, and the leaves, shaped and veined like those +of the lily-of-the-valley, grow alternately down the stem. The plant +does not branch. Like the ivy, the yellow lady's-slipper does not poison +every one. + +I know of no other wild plants that are poisonous to the touch; the +following will poison only if taken inwardly. + + +=Deadly Nightshade= + +To the nightshade family belong plants that are poisonous and plants +that are not, but the thrilling name, deadly nightshade, carries with it +the certainty of poison. + +The plant is an annual and you may often find it growing in a neglected +corner of the garden as well as in waste places. It is a tall plant; the +one I remember in our own garden reached to the top of a five-foot board +fence. Its leaves are rather triangular in shape, they are dark green +and the wavy edges are notched rather than toothed. The flowers are +white and grow in small clusters. The fruit is a berry, round, black, +and smooth, with calyx adhering to it. The berry clusters grow at the +end of drooping stems. This must not be mistaken for the high-bush +blueberry, for to eat the fruit would be most dangerous. + +The antidotes for nightshade poison are emetics, cathartics, and +stimulants. The poison should be thrown off the stomach first, then +strong coffee be given as a stimulant. + + +=Pokeweed, Pigeonberry= + +Pokeweed comes under the heading of poisonous plants though its berries +are eaten by birds, and its young shoots are said to be almost equal in +flavor, and quite as wholesome, as asparagus. It seems to be the large +perennial root that holds the poison, though some authorities claim that +the poison permeates the entire plant to a certain extent. The root is +sometimes mistaken for that of edible plants and the young leaves for +those of the marsh-marigold, which are edible when cooked. It is a tall +plant with a stout stem and emits a strong odor. You will find it +growing by the wayside and in rocky places. The leaves are oblong and +pointed at the tips and base. They have no teeth. The small white +flowers are in clusters. The fruit is a small, flat, dark-purple berry, +growing in long, upstanding clusters on a central stalk. The individual +stem of the berry is very short. The name inkberry was given to the +plant because of the strong stain of the berry juice which was sometimes +used for ink. Pokeweed is at home in various states, Maine to Minnesota, +Arkansas, and Florida. + + +=Poison-Hemlock= + +The poison-hemlock is well known historically, being in use at the time +of Socrates, and believed to have been administered to him by the +Greeks. It is quite as poisonous now as in Socrates's day, and +accidental poisoning has come from people eating the seeds, mistaking +them for anise-seed, eating the leaves for parsley and the roots for +parsnips. The plant grows from two to seven feet high; its stem is +smooth and spotted or streaked with purplish-red. It has large, +parsley-like leaves and pretty clusters of small, white flowers which +grow, stiff-stemmed, from a common centre and blossom in July and +August. When the fresh leaves are bruised they give out a distinctly +mouse-like odor and they are very nauseating to the taste. +Poison-hemlock is common on waysides and waste places in New York, West +Virginia, Pennsylvania, New Jersey, and Ohio. It is also found in New +England and Michigan, Wisconsin, Illinois, Louisiana, and California. + +The treatment recommended by professionals is emetics, warmth of hands +and feet, artificial respiration, and the subcutaneous injection of +atropine, administered by a physician. + + +=Water-Hemlock= + +Water-hemlock is similar in appearance and in effect. It is found in wet +places and on the borders of swamps. The remedies are the same as for +poison-hemlock. + +[Illustration: DEADLY NIGHTSHADE + +POKEWEED + +Plants poison to the taste.] + + +=Jimson-Weed= + +The jimson-weed is very common in Kentucky. I have not seen so much of +it in the east and north, but it appears to grow pretty nearly over the +whole United States. It is from one to five feet in height, and an +ill-smelling weed, though first cousin to the beautiful, cultivated +datura, which is a highly prized garden plant. The stem is smooth, +green, stout, and branching. The flower is large, sometimes four inches +long, and trumpet-shaped. There are several varieties of this weed; on +some the flower is white, on others the five, flaring, sharp-pointed +lobes are stained with lavender and magenta. The calyx is long, +close-fitting, and light green. The leaves are rather large; they are +angularly oval in shape and are coarsely notched. The fruit is a +prickly, egg-shaped capsule which contains the seeds. It is these seeds +which are sometimes eaten with serious results, and children have been +poisoned by putting the flowers in their mouths. + +Emetics should immediately be administered to throw the poison off the +stomach, then hot, strong coffee should be given. Sometimes artificial +respiration must be resorted to. In all cases of poisoning a physician +should be called if possible. + +The habit of chewing leaves and stems without knowing what they are +should be suppressed when on the trail. It is something like going +through a drug store and sampling the jars of drugs as you pass, and the +danger of poisoning is almost as great. + + +=Toadstools= + +Unless you are an expert in distinguishing non-poisonous mushrooms from +the poison toadstool, _leave them all alone_. Many deaths occur yearly +from eating toadstools which have been mistaken for the edible +mushrooms. + + + + +CHAPTER IX + +ON THE TRAIL WITH YOUR CAMERA + +=What to Photograph and How= + + +You cannot depend entirely upon your memory to recall the sights and +adventures of the trail, and will be only half-equipped if you go +without a camera and note-book. Several clicks of the camera will record +the principal events, while your note-book will fill in the detail. + + +=Selecting a Camera= + +In selecting a camera remember that every ounce in weight counts as two +when on the long trail, and that to have to carry it in your hand is +most troublesome and inconvenient. The folding camera, which can be hung +over your shoulder with a strap, is therefore the best; and do not try +to carry plates, they are too heavy. It is of little use to consult the +clerk of a photographic supply shop about the style of camera you should +buy. As a rule he is not chosen for his knowledge of the goods, and his +advice may be worse than none. The better plan is to secure descriptive +catalogues from dealer or manufacturer before investing, and study them +well. The catalogues will tell you the price, the size, the weight, and +_what kind of work_ each variety of camera will do, and you will learn +the advantages and limitations of many before deciding upon one. + + +=How to Know Your Camera= + +The camera once bought and in your hands, the next thing to do is to +become thoroughly acquainted with it. With your camera you are entitled +to a little book of instructions. Take your camera and the book, sit +down alone, and give them your entire attention. Read the book carefully +and, at the same time, carry out the instructions while the camera is +unloaded, that is, without the film. If the size of the diaphragm can be +changed, change it and look into the lens to see the effect; also try +adjusting the shutter and watch the lens for the effect of instantaneous +and time exposures. Try the focussing scale, locate some image in the +finder, and practise holding the camera pressed closely against your +body, pointing neither up nor down, tipping neither to one side nor the +other, but aimed directly at the object you are supposed to be +photographing. Then try turning the key which brings the film exposures +into position. + + +=Loading the Camera= + +Learn how to load and to unload, first without unrolling your film. +Afterward adjust the roll in the camera and see that it is properly +placed and will turn easily, before you loosen the end of the film. If +you detach the gummed paper which keeps the film tightly wrapped before +placing the roll in the camera, the whole film will spring loose from +its spool and become light-struck before you can adjust it. + + +=Count the Turns of the Key= + +With your first roll of films it is well to learn and remember the +number of turns you must give the key to bring a new exposure into +place. With my camera which takes a four-by-five picture, five turns of +the key are necessary between the exposures. Knowing this, I count, and +when the fifth turn is reached I complete it slowly, watching carefully +the while for the new number to appear in the little red celluloid +window. In this way, even when hurried or excited, I do not lose an +exposure by turning the key once too often. Always remember to place a +new exposure _directly after_ taking a picture, to make sure that you +will not take two on one film. In making ready for a new subject count +again, for there are four things one must be sure of with most cameras +before taking a photograph, and by counting you will know if any have +been omitted: + + (1) See that a fresh exposure is in place. + + (2) See that the shutter is properly adjusted for + instantaneous (or time) exposure. + + (3) See that diaphragm stop is set at the proper + opening for the light you will have. + + (4) See that the distance is correctly focussed. + +There are cameras, however, that are of universal focus and do not need +adjustment. These are convenient ones for the trail, as they are always +ready and can be used quickly. Being small, they are also light to +carry. + + +=Be Economical with Your Films= + +A very important thing to learn when taking photographs is to be +economical with your films, and especially is this so when on the trail, +for your supply is then necessarily limited. Merely for the sake of +using the new toy, many amateurs will photograph subjects that are not +of the slightest interest to any one, and very often, when a scene or +object does present itself that is well worth while, all the films will +have been wasted and no picture can be taken. + + +=Plan Your Pictures to Illustrate Your Trip= + +It is a good idea to plan your pictures so that they will illustrate +your trip from beginning to end. A snap-shot of your party starting on +the trail, another of the country through which you pass, with, perhaps, +one or two figures in it, and the remainder of the films used on objects +of interest found on the way. If you can secure pictures of any wild +animals you may see, they will make the series doubly interesting and +valuable. When you go into camp a view of the camp should be included. +When the pictures are printed write on the back of each what it +represents, where taken, and the date; they will then be valuable data +as well as trustworthy reminders. + + +=Backgrounds= + +Look for the best view of a subject before using your camera; there is +always a choice. One side may be much more pleasing or more +characteristic than the other, or may show interesting details more +plainly. If you have studied drawing you will be able also to find the +view which makes the best composition. The background, too, must be +considered, and the position of the sun. The simpler the background the +better. Near-by foliage is not good for figures; it is too confused and +the figures will mingle with it. Sometimes the adjustable portrait-lens, +which can be slipped over the other, will obviate that trouble by +blurring everything not in exact focus, and this lens will allow you to +stand nearer the object and so make it larger on the film. It is not +intended for distant views and the camera should not be more than six +feet from the subject when it is used. + +[Illustration: The white birch-tree makes a fine background for the +beaver.] + +Quiet water makes an excellent background, also distant foliage and +hills, flat fields and meadows. These may be obtained for figures, but +often the very things you want to photograph most are in the woods with +foliage close to and all around them; then you must simply do the best +you can under the circumstances. + + +=Color Values in Photographs= + +Another thing to remember is that, unless in broad sunlight, green will +take dark and sometimes black; and brown or tan, being of the same color +value in the photograph, will mingle with and often be lost in the +background. If you are photographing a tawny animal, and most wild +animals are tawny, try to get it when in the sunlight with a dark or +flat background, or else against a background lighter in color than the +animal. For instance, a red squirrel or chipmunk will be lost amid, or +against, the foliage of a tree, but on a fence rail or fallen log it +will stand out distinctly. + +If you have a chance at a beaver it will be near the water, of course. +Then the choice view will be where the water can form at least part of +the background. If the shore is at the back it may be difficult when the +print is made to find the beaver at all. In the interesting photograph +shown here the beaver is against the light trunk of the tree which shows +where he has gnawed it almost through. In all this the position of the +sun must be taken into account, but the rule of always having the sun at +your back, like most other rules, has its exceptions. I have found that +so long as the sun lights up the object, even when from one side, I can +secure a good picture; but I never allow it to strike the lens of the +camera, and I make sure that the subject is not silhouetted against its +background by having all the light at its back. + +[Illustration: Blacktail deer snapped with a background of snow.] + + +=Photographing Wild Animals= + +It is not easy to photograph wild animals after you have found them, but +you can do it if you are quick to see and to act and are also patient +enough to wait for a good opportunity. You will often find deer feeding +in sunlit places and can, if you stalk them carefully, approach near +enough to get a good shot. If they happen to be in partial or light +shadow, open the diaphragm of your camera at its widest stop and try for +an instantaneous exposure. Very good photographs are sometimes taken by +that method, and it is worth the experiment where time exposures are out +of the question, as in taking moving animals. A snap-shot will be of no +avail if the shadow is heavy, however, and a short time exposure may +sometimes be used. Set your time lever at No. 1, which means one second, +and the lever controlling the diaphragm at No. 16, and by pressing the +bulb once you will have a time exposure of one second. An important +thing for you to realize in taking animal photographs is the fact that +though the creature may seem quite near as you see it with your natural +eye, in the picture it will occupy only the relative space that it does +on the finder. If it covers a quarter of the space on the finder it will +cover a quarter, no more and no less, of the finished photograph. + +The wonderful pictures we see of wild animals are usually the work of +professionals who have especially adapted cameras; but to take the +photograph oneself makes even a poor one of more value. + +[Illustration: The skunk. + +Don't get too near when you try to photograph him.] + + +=Shutter Speed= + +To photograph objects in rapid motion such as flying birds, the speed of +your shutter must be at least one three-hundredths of a second and you +must have a fast lens; but with a shutter speed of one one-hundredth I +have taken very good pictures of things moving at a moderate rate. A +walking or slowly running animal, for instance, can be taken with a +shutter speed of one one-hundredth. You should find out the speed of the +shutter when you buy your camera, then you will not throw away films on +things beyond its possibilities. "You press the button and we'll do the +rest" doesn't work where moving objects are concerned. + +Those who go a-gunning with the camera, stalk their game as carefully as +any hunter with a gun, and for really good results the following method +is the safest to adopt. Time and patience are required, but one does not +mind giving these, the interest is so absorbing and the successful +picture so well worth while. + + +=Set Your Camera Like a Trap= + +Find the spot frequented by the animal or bird you are after, wait for +it to go away of its own accord while confident and unfrightened, then +set up your camera like a trap where the lens will point to the place +the bird or animal will probably occupy upon its return. + +If it is a nest it will be easy, for you can be sure the bird will come +back there and can adjust your camera to take in the entire nest. Where +there is no nest, sight your camera upon some object between which and +the lens the creature must come in order to be within focus, and trample +down any undergrowth that may obstruct the view. Make sure that your +focus is correct for the distance and that the film will take in the +whole animal. You can provide for this by staking off the probable size +of the animal at the place where you expect it to stand, and then +looking in the finder to see if both stakes are in focus. You will +probably have to raise the camera from the ground and perhaps tip it a +little. For this a low tripod is best but if you haven't that, and very +likely you will not, a convenient log, stump, or stone will answer the +purpose. If even these are not handy you can build up a stand of stones +or small logs, or pile earth into a mound. Whatever material you use, +the stand must be made strong and firm. To have it slip or slide is to +lose the picture. Make your camera perfectly secure and immovable on the +stand, then tie a long cord to the release (the small lever which works +the shutter). The cord must be amply long enough to reach to the ambush +where you will hide while awaiting your game. The ambush may be a clump +of bushes, a convenient rock, or a tree behind which you will be +concealed. If there is no such cover near you can make one of brush and +branches. When the cord is carried from the camera to the ambush hide +the camera with leafy branches, leaving a good opening for the cord to +pass through to prevent it from becoming entangled. Then hie to your +cover and, with the slightly slack cord in your hand, await the coming +of your game. + +[Illustration: The porcupine stood in the shade but the background was +light.] + + +=Taking the Picture= + +As the animal approaches the camera grasp your cord firmly and steady +your nerves to act quickly, and when it is in focus, not before, give a +quick, firm pull to the cord, releasing it immediately, and the thing is +done. Don't become excited at the critical moment and make your shot too +soon or jerk the cord too hard. If a bird is to be taken upon the nest +and the nest is in shadow a short time exposure can be given, or a bulb +exposure. For bulb exposure set the lever that controls the shutter at +_B_ (meaning bulb), and the lever controlling the diaphragm at No. 16. +When the bird has settled upon its nest pull the cord, count three +slowly, and release it. The shutter will remain open as long as the cord +is held taut and will close when released. This method cannot be used +for long time exposures. When you become more practised in the art of +wild-life photography you will know how much time to allow for the +exposures. There will be some failures, of course, but one good +photograph among several will repay you for all your trouble and will +make you keen to try again. + +[Illustration: Photographing a woodcock from ambush.] + + +=Photographing the Trail= + +You can get a good picture of the trail with a snap-shot when it is in +the open, but a forest trail must have time exposure. When your eyes +have become accustomed to the dim light of the woods it will not seem +dark, and you will be tempted to try a snap-shot because it is easier, +but if you do you may certainly count that a lost film. It is not +possible to hold your camera in your hands and succeed with a time +exposure of over one second. The beating of your heart will jar it, a +breath will make it move, so some kind of a rest must be found as when +taking the animals with bulb exposure. If the light is very dim first +set the lever controlling the shutter at the point _T_ (time), then set +the lever for the diaphragm at No. 16, press the bulb, and allow from +fifteen to twenty seconds', or even thirty seconds', exposure. + + +=Timing Without a Watch= + +You can time it without a watch by counting in this way: +one-and-two-and-three-and-up to the number of seconds required. One-and +is one second. + +[Illustration: The country through which you pass, with a trailer in the +foreground.] + +When the seconds have been counted, press the bulb again and if the +camera has not moved you should have a good negative. No hard-and-fast +rules can be given for this work because conditions vary; you must +rely some on your judgment and learn by experience. It is said that +overexposure is better than underexposure and can be handled better in +developing the films, so when in doubt it is well to allow a little more +time than you think should be necessary. Curious results sometimes come +from underexposed films. I once had a print in outline, like a drawing, +from a negative made in the Rocky Mountains. It did not look in the +least like a photograph, there were no shadows, but it was a good +illustration of the scene. + + +=Photographing Flowers and Ferns= + +If your camera will focus so that you can place it near enough to take +small objects such as flowers and ferns, another field of interest is +open to you and you can add a record of those found on the trail to +complete your series. A camping trip will afford better and more +unhurried opportunities for photographing flowers than a one day's +trail, unless you carry a box or basket with you for securing specimens +that you can take back and photograph at leisure. Do not break the stems +of the flowers or plants, take them roots and all. Loosen the soil all +around and under the roots so that which clings to the plant may be +undisturbed and taken up with it. If the soil falls away, cover the root +with damp loam or mud and tie it up in a large leaf as in illustration. +This method not only keeps it from wilting but will enable you to take a +picture of the growing plant with all its interesting characteristics. +If you put your plant with its clod of earth in a _shallow_ bowl, pour +in as much water as the bowl will hold, and keep it always full, it will +remain fresh and vigorous a long while and may be transplanted to +continue its life and growth after you have finished with it. + +[Illustration: METHOD OF PROTECTING ROOTS TO KEEP PLANTS FRESH WHILE YOU +CARRY THEM TO CAMP FOR PHOTOGRAPHING + +MUD AROUND THE ROOTS + +WRAPPED IN LEAVES] + +Just here must come the caution not to tear up wild plants by their +roots unless they are to serve a real purpose. Some of our most +beautiful wild flowers and rarest ferns are now in danger of being +exterminated because of thoughtless and careless people who, in +gathering them, will not even take the trouble to break the stems. When +the roots are gone there will be no more flowers and ferns. + + +=Look at the Date on Your Film= + +Even the best photographer cannot take good photographs unless he has +good films. On the box of every roll of films is stamped the latest date +when it may be safely developed and it is foolish to try to have a film +developed after that date has passed. When you buy your films be sure +they are fresh ones and that the date insures you ample time; one year +ahead is none too long. + +Do not open the box or take the wrappings from a roll of films until you +are ready to load your camera. Then save both box and wrappings, and +when your films have been exposed, use them for covering the roll again. +Keep the wrapped and boxed rolls in a dark place until they can be +developed. Dampness will spoil both films and plates. If you are in a +damp climate, or on shipboard, keep them in a tin box, tightly closed. + + + + +CHAPTER X + +ON AND IN THE WATER + +=Boats Safe and Unsafe. Canoeing. Rowing. Poling. Raft-Making. Swimming. +Fishing= + + +=Safe and Unsafe Boats= + +One seldom goes on the long trail, or into camp, without encountering +water, and boats of some kind must be used, generally rowboats or +canoes. The safest boat on placid water is the heavy, flat-bottomed +rowboat with oars secured to the oar-locks. In my younger days we owned +such a boat, and no one felt in the least anxious when I would put off +for hours alone on the lake at our camp in Pike County, Pa.; especially +as the creaking turn of the oar-locks could easily be heard at camp +loudly proclaiming that I still lived, while I enjoyed the luxury of +solitary adventure. But a tub of this kind is not adapted to all waters +and all purposes, and the safest boat on any water is the one best +adapted to it and to the purpose for which the boat is used. + +Round-bottomed boats tip easily and should, therefore, not be used when +learning to row, though they are safe enough in the hands of those +accustomed to their management. The best of oarsmen, however, cannot +prevent her boat from capsizing if her passenger does not know how to +enter or leave it, or to sit still when aboard. + +[Illustration: A rowboat is a safer craft than a canoe.] + + +=Stepping in and out of a Boat= + +To step on the gunwale (the edge of the boat) will naturally tip it and +most likely turn it over. One should always step directly into the +_middle_ in order to keep the boat evenly balanced, and in getting out, +step _from_ the middle. Stepping on the side or the gunwale of a boat +shows the ignorance of a tenderfoot. There are rowboats that are neither +round-bottomed nor flat but are shaped like the boat in photograph, page +206. These are safer than the round-bottomed, but are more easily +capsized than the flat-bottomed boats. + + +=Canoes and Canoeing= + +If you are to own a canoe select it carefully; consult catalogues of +reliable dealers, and, if possible, have an experienced and good +canoeist help you choose it. The pretty canoe made of wood will answer +in calm waters and wear well with careful usage, but sportsmen prefer +the canvas-covered canoe, declaring it the best boat for cruising, as it +is light, easy to manage, will stand rough usage, and will also carry +greater loads. The best make has a frame of hardwood with cedar ribs and +planking; spruce gunwales and brass bang-plates to protect the ends. +This canoe is covered with strong canvas, treated with some kind of +filler, and then painted and varnished. There are usually two cane +seats, one at the stern, the other near the bow. These are built in. +Canoes vary in the shape of the bow, some being higher than others. The +high bow prevents the shipping of too much water, but will also offer +resistance to the wind and so impede the progress of the boat. A medium +high bow is the best. + +One firm of camp-outfitters advertises a canoe called the Sponson, the +name being taken from the air-chambers built along the outside rail, +which are called sponsons. It is claimed that these air-chambers make it +next to impossible to upset the canoe, and that even when filled with +water it will support a heavy weight. Sponsons can also be purchased +separately and can be adjusted to any sized canoe. + +[Illustration: Keep your body steady.] + +For a novice the sponsons would seem a good thing, as they not only +insure safety but, in doing away with the fear of an upset, make +learning to paddle easier. Then there are the guide canoes made +especially for hunting and fishing. They are strong, flat-bottomed, will +carry a heavy load, are easy to paddle or pole, and will stand rough +water. These canoes are good for general use on the trail. + +The prices of a _good_ canoe range from twenty-eight dollars to forty +dollars. One may go higher, of course, but the essentials of the canoe +will be no better. A lower price means, as a rule, not so good a boat. + + +=Paddles= + +Girls and women generally require shorter paddles than men, as they do +not have the same reach of arm, and you can take your choice of lengths. +For the stern the paddle should be longer than for the bow. Paddles are +made of red oak, maple, ash, spruce, and cherry. Some authorities prefer +spruce for ordinary usage, but in rough water and in shooting rapids a +harder wood is best. The weak part of a paddle is where the blade joins +the handle, and this part should not be too slender. If you use spruce +paddles keep them smooth by trimming away all roughness and keep them +well shellacked, else they may become water-soaked. Paddles range in +price from one dollar and fifty cents to three dollars. + +[Illustration: Canoeing on placid waters.] + + +=Accessories= + +A strong, healthy girl will no more need cushions and canoe-chairs than +a boy, but a back rest is not always to be despised. It is well to +have a large sponge aboard for bailing and for cleaning. + +At a portage or "carry," the canoe is carried overland on the shoulders, +and though some guides scorn to use a carrier, others are glad of them. +There are several styles, one being the neck-yoke carrier, another the +pneumatic canoe-yoke. The pneumatic yoke, when not inflated with air, +can be rolled into a bundle three by six inches, and when inflated it +can also be used for a canoe-seat, a camp-seat, and even for a pillow. +Its weight is two pounds and the catalogue price is three dollars and +twenty-five cents. + + +=Care of the Canoe= + +Even the strongest canoe should be well cared for. To leave it in the +water for any length of time, when not in use, is to run the risk of +damage and loss. A sudden storm will batter it against shore, send it +adrift, or fill and sink it. A canoe should always be _lifted_, not +dragged, ashore, and it should be turned upside down on the bank with a +support in the middle so that it will not be strained by resting only on +the ends. + + +=Getting in the Canoe= + +Never allow any one to get into your canoe or to sit on it when it is +out of the water. That is harder on it than many days of actual use. +When you are to get aboard your canoe, bring it up broadside to the +shore and put one foot exactly in the middle, then carefully place the +other beside it and sit down quickly, but with care to keep your +balance. If there is no one to hold the canoe for you, use your paddle +to steady yourself by pushing it down to the bottom on the side away +from shore. This will keep the canoe from slipping away from under you +while you are stepping in. One of the first things to learn in +canoeing is to preserve your balance; even a slight lurch to one side or +the other must be avoided. Make every necessary movement cautiously and +do not look backward unless absolutely necessary. Never attempt to +change places with any one while in the canoe. If the change must be +made, land and change there. + +[Illustration: Bring your canoe up broadside to the shore.] + + +=Upset= + +Should there be an upset keep hold of your paddle, it will help to keep +you afloat, then if you can reach your craft and hold to it without +trying to climb upon it you can keep your head above water until help +arrives or until you can tread water to shore. If you can swim you are +comparatively safe, and a girl who goes often on the trail should, by +all means, be a swimmer. + + +=Paddling= + +Some expert canoeists strongly advise kneeling in the bottom of the +canoe while paddling, for at least part of the time, but the usual +method is to sit on the seats provided at bow and stern, or sit on the +bottom. The kneeling paddler has her canoe in better control, and +becomes more one with it than one who sits. In shooting rapids and in +rough weather kneeling is the safest when one knows how to paddle in +that position. It is a good thing to learn both methods. + +When you paddle close one hand firmly on the end of the paddle and the +other around the handle a short distance above the blade. Then, keeping +your body steady, dip your paddle into the water slightly in front of +you and sweep it backward and downward toward the stern, keeping it +close to the canoe. You face the bow in a canoe, remember, and reach +forward for your stroke. At the finish of a stroke turn the paddle +edgewise and slide it out of the water. For the next stroke bring the +blade forward, swinging it horizontally with the blade parallel to the +water, and slide it edgewise into the water again in front of you. Fig. +34 shows the beginning of a stroke, Fig. 35 while the stroke is in +progress, and Fig. 36 the ending. During the stroke bring your upper +hand forward across your face or breast, and with the lower draw the +blade through the water. + +It is well to begin as bow paddler, for your duty there, in smooth +water, is to watch for obstructions such as hidden rocks and submerged +logs or snags, while the paddler at the stern must steer the canoe and +keep it in a straight course. + +At the beginning learn to paddle as well from one side as from the +other. To be able to change sides is very restful and sometimes a quick +change will prevent an accident. Like many other things, the knack of +paddling will come with experience and will then require no more thought +than keeping your balance on a bicycle and steering it. + + +=Loading a Canoe= + +A top-heavy canoe is decidedly dangerous, that is why it is safest to +sit or kneel on the bottom, and in loading your camp stuff bear the fact +well in mind. Pack the load as low in the canoe as possible with the +heaviest things at the bottom, but use common sense and do not put +things that should be kept dry underneath where any water that is +shipped will settle and soak them. Think again and put cooking utensils +and lunch provender where you can reach them without unloading the +canoe. The packing should be done in such a way as to cause the canoe +to tip neither at one end or at the other, and certainly not to one +side. + +[Illustration: 34 36 + +35 How to use the paddle and a flat-bottomed rowboat.] + + +=Rowing= + +A rowboat is a safer craft than a canoe, and rowing is not a difficult +feat, but there is a difference between the rowing of a heavy +flat-bottomed boat and rowing a light skiff or round-bottomed rowboat. +In rowing properly one's body does most of the work and the strain comes +more on the muscles of the back than on those of the arms. + +In paddling you face the bow of the canoe; in rowing you are turned +around and face the stern of your boat. In paddling you reach forward +and draw your paddle back; in rowing you lean back and pull your oars +forward. When beginning a stroke grasp the handles of your oars firmly +near the ends, lean forward with arms outstretched and elbows straight, +the oars slanting backward, and, by bearing down on the handles of the +oars, lift the blades above the water. Then drop them in edgewise and +pull, straightening your body, bending your elbows, and bringing your +hands together one above the other. As you finish the stroke bear down +on your oars to lift the blades out of the water again, turn your wrists +to bring the flat of the blades almost parallel with the water but with +the back edge lifted a little; then bend forward and, sweeping the oars +backward, turning the edge down, plunge them in the water for another +pull. Turning the wrists at the beginning of a stroke feathers the oar, +the forward edge of which is sometimes allowed to skim lightly over the +surface of the water as the oar is carried backward. In steering with +the oars you pull hardest on the oar on the side _opposite_ to the +direction you wish to take. A little practise and all this comes easy +enough. + +The thing for a beginner to avoid is "catching a crab." That is, +dipping the oars so lightly in the water as not to give sufficient hold, +which will cause them, when pulled forward, to fly up and send the rower +sprawling on her back. In dipping too deeply there is danger of losing +an oar by the suction of the water. Experience will teach the proper +depth for the stroke. + +On some of the Adirondack lakes the round-bottomed rowboats are used +almost exclusively, but the boat with a narrow, flat bottom is safer and +is both light and easy to row. A cedar rowboat is the most desirable. +The oars should be light for ordinary rowing yet strong enough to +prevent their snapping above the blade in rough water. + + +=Rafts= + +You can never tell just what will happen when you go on the long trail, +that is one of its charms, nor do you know what you will be called upon +to do. The girl best versed in the ways of the water as well as of the +woods is surest of safety, and can be most helpful to her party. +Possibly you may never be called upon to build a raft, and again an +emergency may arise when a raft will not only be convenient but +absolutely necessary. When such an emergency does come it is not likely +that you will have anything besides the roughest of building material +and no tools besides your small axe or hatchet. But with your axe you +can chop off limbs of sufficient size for the raft from fallen trees, +and with ropes made of the inner bark of trees you can bind your small +logs together in such a way as to hold them firmly. Do not use green +wood, it will not float like the dry. Logs about twelve inches in +diameter are the best, but half that size will make a good raft. Six +feet by twelve is a fair size. The smaller the logs the larger the raft +must be in order to carry any weight, for it must cover a wider surface +of water than is necessary for one made of large logs. One good-sized +log will carry your weight easily, but a small one will sink beneath +you. + +If you have two long, strong ropes you can use them for binding the logs +together; if not you must make the ropes from fibre of some kind. Daniel +C. Beard in his book, "Boat-Building and Boating," tells of making a +very strong rope of the inner bark of a chestnut-tree which had been +killed by fire. The fibre torn off in long strips must be twisted by two +persons, or one end may be tied to a branch while you twist the other. +When two are twisting one person takes one end, the other takes the +other end, and, standing as far apart as possible, each twists the fibre +between her fingers, turning it in opposite directions until when held +slack it will double on itself and make a double twist. The ends are +then brought together and the rope kept from snarling until it is bent +at the middle and allowed to double twist evenly all the way to the end. +The fibre rope will be a little less than _half_ the length of the +original strands, and it should be about the size of heavy clothes-line +rope. The short lengths of rope must be tied together to make two long +ropes. Use the square knot in tying to make sure that it will not slip. +When the knot is wet it will be quite secure. + +[Illustration: The raft of logs.] + + +=Primitive Weaving Method= + +For tying the logs together use the primitive weaving method. Lay three +lengths of rope on the ground, one for the middle and one each for the +ends of the logs. Roll one log along the ropes until it rests across the +middle of each rope, then turn each rope over the log, forming a bight +as in Fig. 37. Bring the lower rope over the upper (Fig. 38) to form a +loop, and turn it back over the log (Fig. 39). This leaves the log with +three loops of rope around it, one end of each rope lying on the +ground, the other end turned back over the log. Now roll another log +over the lower ropes up close to the first log (Fig. 40). Bring down the +upper ropes over the second log (Fig. 41), cross the lower ropes _over_ +the upper ones and turn them back (Fig. 42). Draw the ropes tight and +push the logs as closely together as possible; unless your logs are +straight there will be wide spaces between. Roll the third log over the +lower ropes and make the weaving loop as with the other two, _always_ +crossing the lower rope _over_ the upper (Fig. 43). Continue weaving in +new logs until the raft is the required width, then tie the ends of the +ropes around the last log. Remember to keep the ropes on the ground +always in a straight line without slanting them, otherwise the sides of +your raft will not be at right angles to the ends, and it will be a +crazily built affair, cranky and difficult to manage. + +Chop notches on the outside logs where the ropes are to pass over them, +and they will keep the rope from slipping out of place (Fig. 44). Cut +two, more slender, logs for the ends of the raft and lash them on across +the others as in Fig. 45. The end logs should extend a little beyond +each side of the raft. Fasten a rope with a strong slip knot to one end +of the cross log and wrap it over the log and under the first lengthwise +log, then over and under again to form a cross on top. When the rope is +under the second time bring it up between the second and third log, then +down between the third and fourth log, and so on to the end, when you +must make a secure fastening. These cross logs give additional strength, +keep the raft in shape, and prevent its shipping too much water. + +If you will make a miniature raft, following these directions carefully, +when the time comes for you to build a full-sized one you will be quite +familiar with the method of construction and will know exactly how to go +about it. + +[Illustration: 37 38 39 + +40 41 42 + +43 + +44 + +45 + +Primitive weaving in raft building.] + +For the little raft use small, straight branches about twelve inches +long. Twist your slender rope of fibre if you can get it, of string if +you cannot, and weave it around the sticks just as you would weave the +rope around the logs, finishing off with the two end sticks for the end +logs. + + +=Poling= + +If you have a raft you must know how to pole it, and at times it is +necessary to pole other kinds of craft. Select a straight pole of +strong, green wood eight feet or more in length. The length of the pole +will depend upon the depth of the water, for it must be long enough to +reach bottom. Trim off all the small branches and make it as smooth as +possible. + +When the water is deep and calm a pole may sometimes be used as a paddle +to send the raft along, but its real purpose is to push from the bottom. +In poling you must necessarily stand near the edge of the raft and must +therefore be careful not to lean too far over the water lest you lose +your balance and fall in. + +Poling is a primitive, go-as-you-please method of propelling a craft and +is almost free from rules except those suggested by the common sense of +the poler. Like the early pioneers, you simply do the best you can under +the circumstances and are alert to take advantage of every element in +your favor. Where there is a current you pole for it and then allow your +raft to float with it, provided it goes in the direction you wish to +take and is not too swift. In this case you use your pole for steering, +which may sometimes be done from the stern, making a rudder of the pole, +at others from the side, and at times reaching down to the river bed. If +the current runs the wrong way be careful to keep out of it as much as +possible. + +Shallow water near the shore is usually the most quiet and the safest +for a raft. Here you can generally pole your raft up-stream when the +water is deep enough to float it and is not obstructed by rocks, logs, +or snags. A raft is not safe where there is a swift current, and there +should always be strong arms to manage it. + + +=Swimming= + +If you will realize that your body is buoyant, not a dead weight in the +water, and that swimming should come as naturally to you as to the wild +creatures, it may help you to gain the confidence so essential in +learning to swim. If you are not afraid of the water you will not +struggle while in it, and the air in your lungs will keep you afloat +while you learn to make the movements that will carry you along. You +will not sink if you are quite calm and move only your hands _under_ +water with a slight paddling movement. Keep in mind that every inch +above water but adds so much to the weight to sink you lower. To throw +up your arms is the surest way of going straight to the bottom. Do not +be afraid to allow the water to come up and partially cover your chin. + +All sorts of contrivances have been invented to keep a person afloat +while learning to swim, but they all tend to take from, rather than to +give confidence, for it is natural to depend entirely upon them and to +feel helpless when they are taken away. According to my own experience +the best method is to have a friend place a hand under your chin while +her feet are touching bottom and to walk with you while you learn to +make the swimming movements. This will keep your head above water and +give you a sense of security, and you will then strike out confidently. +The support rendered is so slight you learn to manage your own weight in +the water almost immediately, while you have the feeling that some one +upholds you, and the friendly hand may be withdrawn at intervals to +allow you to try entirely alone. + +You see that after all it is the _feeling_ of being supported more than +the actual support that counts, and if you can convince yourself that +you need no support you won't need it. It is best to start by swimming +_toward_ land instead of away from it. To know that you are not going +beyond your depth but are gaining the shore is a great help in +conquering fear. + + +=Movements in Swimming= + +If you are learning alone, begin in quiet, shallow water only deep +enough to float you; waist-high is sufficiently deep. Assume the first +position for swimming by throwing your body forward with arms extended +and palms of hands together, at the same time lifting your feet from the +bottom with a spring. This should bring your body out perfectly straight +in the water, feet together and arms ready for the first movement. + +Now separate your hands, turn them palm outward, and swing your arms +around in a half-circle until they extend straight out from the sides, +pushing the water back with your hands. In the second movement bend your +elbows and bring them down with palms of hands together under your chin, +and at the same time draw your legs up under your body with knees and +feet still held close together. The third movement is to send your arms +shooting straight ahead, while your legs, separating, describe a +half-circle and your feet pushing against the water force you forward +and then come together again in the first position. + +This is a point to be remembered: always thrust your hands forward, to +open the way, and your feet back, to push yourself through it, at the +_same time_. It is like a wire spring being freed at both ends at once, +each end springing away from the middle. When you push the spring +together, that is, when in taking the second movement you draw in your +hands and feet, do it slowly; then take the third movement--letting the +spring out--quickly, thrusting out your hands in front and your feet at +the back with a sudden movement, pushing your feet strongly against the +water and stretching yourself out as far as you can reach. + +[Illustration: THE FRIENDLY HAND UNDER YOUR CHIN WILL GIVE YOU +CONFIDENCE + +LEARN TO TREAD WATER FOR SAFETY + +Learn to be at home in the water.] + + +=Floating= + +Some people can float who cannot swim. Others can swim but are not able +to float. That is, they think they are not and do not seem willing to +try, but it is quite necessary every one should know how to rest in the +water, and learning to float is very essential. + +The hand of a friend will help you in this as in learning to swim, but +for floating it is held under the back of your head instead of under +your chin. Lie on your back with legs straight before you, feet +together, arms close at your sides, and head thrown back; trust the +water to bear you up and all that is necessary to keep you afloat is a +rotary motion of your hands _under_ water. After a time all movement may +be given up and you will lie easily and quietly as on a bed. It is said +that it is easier for women and girls to float than for men, because +their bones are lighter, and some learn to float the first time they +enter the water; all of which is very encouraging to girls. Breathe +deeply but naturally while floating, for the more air there is in your +lungs the more buoyant will be your body and the higher it will float. +If your body is inclined to roll from side to side spread out your arms +_under_ water until you steady yourself. If your feet persist in sinking +extend your arms above your head _under_ water and this will maintain +the balance. + +Do not try to lift your head, but keep it well back in the water. If +your nose and mouth are out that is all that is necessary. Let your +muscles relax and lie limply. + +To regain your feet after floating bring your arms in front and pull on +the water with scooped hands while raising your body from the hips. + + +=Diving= + +You will learn to dive merely for the joy of the quick plunge into cool +waters, but there are times when to understand diving may mean the +saving of your own or some one else's life, and no matter how suddenly +or unexpectedly you are cast into the water by accident, you will retain +your self-possession and be able to strike out and swim immediately. + +One should never dive into unknown water if it can be avoided, but as on +the trail all water is likely to be unknown, investigate it well before +diving and look out for hidden rocks. Do not dive into shallow water; +that is dangerous. If you are to dive from the bank some distance above +the water, stand on the edge with your toes reaching over it. Extend +your arms, raise them, and duck your head between with your arms, +forming an arch above, your ears covered by your arms. Lock your thumbs +together to keep your hands from separating when they strike the water. +Bend your knees slightly and spring from them, but straighten them +immediately so that you will be stretched full length as you enter the +water. As soon as your body is in the water curve your back inward, lift +your head up, and make a curve through the water to the surface. + + +=Breathing= + +Breathe through your nose always when swimming as well as when walking. +To open your mouth while swimming is usually to swallow a pint or two of +water. Exhale your breath as you thrust your hands forward, inhale it as +you bring them back. "Blow your hands from you." + + +=Treading Water= + +In treading water you maintain an upright position as in walking. Some +one says: "To tread water is like running up-stairs rapidly." Try +running up-stairs and you will get the leg movement. While the water is +up to your neck, bend your elbows and bring your hands to the surface, +then keep the palms pressing down the water. The principle is the same +as in swimming. When you swim you force the water back with your hands +and feet and so send your body forward. When you tread water you force +the water _down_ with your hands and feet and so send your body, or keep +it, up. + +It is even possible to stand quite still in deep water when you learn to +keep your balance. All you do is to spread out your arms at the sides on +a line with your shoulders and keep your head well back. You may go +below the surface once or twice until you learn, but you will come up +again and the feat is well worth while. What an outdoor girl should +strive for is to become thoroughly at home in the water so that she may +enter it fearlessly and know what to do when she is there. + +[Illustration: For dinner.] + + +=Fishing= + +Just here would seem to be the place to talk of fishing, but I am not +going to try to tell you how to fish; that would take a volume, there +are so many kinds of fish and so many ways of fishing. One way is to cut +a slender pole, tie a fish-line on the small end, tie a fish-hook to the +end of the line, bait it with an angleworm, stand on the bank, drop the +hook and bait into the water, and await results. Another way is to put +together a delicate, quivering fishing-rod, carefully select a "fly," +adjust it, stand on the bank, or in a boat, and "cast" the fly far out +on the water with a dexterous turn of the wrist. You may catch fish in +either way, but in some cases the pole and angleworm is the surest. + +A visitor stood on the bank of our Pike County lake and skilfully sent +his fly skimming over the water while the boy of the family, catching +perch with his home-cut pole and angleworms, was told to watch and +learn. He did watch politely for a while, then turned again to his own +affairs. Once more some one said: "Look at Mr. J., boy, and learn to +cast a fly." But the boy, placidly fishing, returned: "I'd rather know +how to catch fish." It was true the boy had caught the fish and the +skilful angler had not. All of which goes to prove that if it is fish +you want, just any kind of fish and not the excitement of the sport, a +pole like the boy's will probably be equal to all requirements. But +there are black bass in the lake, and had one of them been in that +particular part of it, no doubt the fly would have tempted him, and the +experience and skill of Mr. J. supplemented by his long, flexible rod, +his reel and landing net, would have done the rest, while the boy had +little chance of such a bite and almost none of landing a game fish like +the bass. + +[Illustration: The veteran.] + +If you want to fish, and every girl on the trail should know how, take +it up in a common-sense way and learn from an experienced person. Own a +good, serviceable rod and fishing tackle and let it be your business to +know why they are good. Make up your mind to long, patient, trying +waits, to early and late excursions, and to some disappointments. Take a +fisherman's luck cheerfully and carry the thing through like a true +sportsman. There is one thing to remember which sportsmen sometimes +forget in the excitement of the game and that is _not to catch more fish +than you have use for_. One need not be cruel even to cold-blooded fish, +nor need one selfishly grab all one can get merely for the sake of the +getting and without a thought for those who are to come after. We have +all heard of good fishing places which have been "fished out," and that +could not be if the fishermen had taken only as many as they could use. +This rule holds good all through the wild: Take what you need, it is +yours, but all the rest belongs to others. + + + + +CHAPTER XI + +USEFUL KNOTS AND HOW TO TIE THEM + +=Square Knots. Hitching Knots. Other Knots= + + +Every outdoor girl should know what knots to use for various purposes +and how to tie them, but only those which will be found useful on the +trail are given here. + + +=Terms Used in Knot-Tying= + +There are three different kinds of bends that are given a rope in the +process of tying a knot, and each bend has its own name. You must learn +these in order to understand the directions for knot-tying; they are: +the _bight_, the _loop_, and the _round turn_. + +The _bight_ (Fig. 46) is made by bending the rope so that the sides are +parallel. The _loop_ (Fig. 47) is made by lapping one rope of the bight +across the other. The _round turn_ (Fig. 48) is made by carrying one +rope of the loop all the way around to the other side, making half of +the loop double. + + +=Square Knot= + +This is probably what you would at first call a hard knot, and so it is +a hard knot to come untied of itself or to slip, but it is easy to untie +when necessary. The hard knot most people tie is not quite the same as +the square knot, though it does resemble it. + +The ordinary hard knot is what is known as the _granny_ knot, a slurring +name which means a failure. The granny knot will not always stay tied, +it often slips and it cannot be trusted when absolute security is +needed. + +Begin the _square knot_ with the single first tie (Fig. 49). You see the +end _X_ turns up _over_ the other rope while the end _O_ laps _under_ +the rope. Now bring the two ends together, lapping _X over O_ (Fig. 50). +Then pass _X_ back under _O_, making the single tie once more. Now +compare what you have done with Fig. 51. Notice in the drawing that the +ends of rope _X_ are _both over_ the right-hand bight, and the ends of +rope _O_ are _both under_ the left-hand bight. Draw the square knot +tight and it looks like Fig. 52. + +You cannot make a mistake in tying the square knot if you remember to +notice which end is on top, or laps _over_ the other rope when the first +single tie is made (Fig. 49), and then be sure to lap this _same end +over_ the other end in making the second tie which finishes the knot. + + +=Figure-Eight Knot= + +Use the figure-eight knot to make a knot on the end of a rope or to +prevent the end of the strands from untwisting. Form a loop like Fig. 53 +near the end of the rope, bringing the short end over the long rope; +then pass the short end under the long rope once, as shown by dotted +line, and carry it up over and through the loop (Fig. 54). Pull it up +tightly to bring the end square across the rope (Fig. 55). This knot is +not difficult to untie. + +[Illustration: 46 Bight. + +47 Loop. + +48 Round turn. + +BENDS IN KNOT TYING + +49 SQUARE KNOT 50 + +51 52] + + +=Bow-Line Knot= + +To form a loop that will not slip and yet may be easily untied use the +bow-line knot. + +(1) When the loop is not fastened to anything use the _overhand method_ +of tying it. First measure off sufficient rope for the loop you wish +to make and hold the place with your left hand (this place is indicated +by the arrow in Fig. 56); then with your right hand throw the short end +of the rope over the long rope (Fig. 56). Still holding the short end +with your right hand, with the left hand bring the long rope up to form +a loop over the end (Fig. 57). Now with your right hand take up the end, +draw it farther through the loop, and pass it behind the long rope above +the loop, from right to left (Fig. 58). Bring the end forward again and +slip it downward through the loop (Fig. 59). Draw the knot tight and it +cannot slip, no matter how great the strain. + +(2) Use the _underhand method_ when the loop is passed _around_ +something or _through_ a ring. This loop may be put around the neck of a +horse or cow without danger of injury, for it will not slip and tighten. +It can also be used in place of the hitching tie. + +Slip the rope through the ring, or around the object, from left to right +while you hold the long rope in your left hand. Take a half-hitch around +the long rope, passing the end _over_ the long rope, then under it. This +makes a loop like Fig. 60. Transfer this loop from the short rope to the +long rope by holding loosely, or giving slack, with the left hand and +pulling up with the right. A little practise will enable you to do this +easily. Fig. 61 shows the loop transferred to the long rope with the +short end passing through it. At this stage carry the short end over, +then under the long rope _below_ the loop (Fig. 62), then up and through +the loop as in Fig. 63. Tighten the knot by pulling on both the long +rope and the short end. + +[Illustration: 53 54 55 + +FIGURE EIGHT KNOT + +56 57 58 + +OVERHAND BOWLINE KNOT + +59] + + +=Sheep-Shank Knot= + +It is sometimes necessary to shorten a rope temporarily and not +desirable to cut it, and the sheep-shank knot solves the problem. It +is used by the sailors, who do not believe in cutting ropes. It will +stand a tremendous strain without slipping, but will loosen when held +slack, and can be untied by a quick jerk of the two outside ropes +forming the bights. + +Begin by bending the rope to form two bights as in _A_, Fig. 64, carry +the single rope over at the top of the bend, then under to form a +half-hitch as in _B_. Do the same with the other single rope at the +bottom of the bend _C_, and draw both ends tight (_D_). With a little +practise this can be done very quickly. If the rope is to be permanently +shortened pass the ends through the first and second bights at the bend +as in _E_, and the knot will hold for any length of time. + + +=The Parcel Slip-Knot= + +This is the simplest of all knots to start with in tying up a parcel. +Begin by making a knot about one inch from the end of your twine, using +the single tie like _F_ (Fig. 65). If this does not make the knot large +enough use the figure-eight knot. The single tie is sufficient in +ordinary cases. Wrap your twine once around your parcel, lapping the +long twine over the knotted end as in _G_. Bring the knotted end over +the long twine, forming a bight, then _over_ and _under_ its own twine +with the single tie (_H_). Draw the tie up close to the knot at the end; +the knot prevents it from slipping off. Now the long twine may be drawn +tight or loosened at will, and will hold the first wrap in place while +the twine is being wrapped around the package in a different place. + + +[Illustration: 60 61 62 63 + +UNDERHAND BOWLINE KNOT + +A B C + +FIG 64 SHEEPSHANK KNOT + +D E] + + +=Cross-Tie Parcel Knot= + +When you have two or more parallel twines on your parcel and have begun +to bring down the cross-line, secure it to each twine in this way: Bring +the long twine down and loop it under the first twine to form a bight +as in _I_ (Fig. 66). + +Then carry the long twine over, itself forming a loop (_J_), then under +the first twine as in _K_. + +Draw tight and proceed to the second twine, making the same cross-tie. + +When you have carried your cross-line entirely around the parcel, tie it +securely to the first twine where it began and finish with a single-tie +knot, making a knot on the last end of the twine close to the fastening, +to keep the end from slipping through. + + +=Fisherman's Knot= + +The fisherman's knot is used by fishermen to tie silkworm gut together. +It is easily untied by pulling the two short ends, but it never slips. +Lay the two ropes side by side (_L_, Fig. 67), then make a loop around +one rope with the other rope, passing the end under both ropes (_M_). +Bring the end over and into the loop to make a single tie (_N_). Tie the +end of the second rope around the first rope in the same manner (_N_) +and draw both knots tight (_O_). + + +=Halter, Slip, or Running Knot= + +The halter or slip knot is often convenient, but should never be used +around the neck of an animal, for if either end is pulled it will slip +and tighten, thereby strangling the creature. + +First form a bight, then with one end of the rope make a single tie +around the other rope (Fig. 68). + + +[Illustration: F G H + +FIG 65 PARCEL SLIP KNOT + +I J K + +FIG 66 CROSS-TIE PARCEL KNOT + +L M N O + +FIG 67 FISHERMAN'S KNOT] + + +=Half-Hitch= + +If you have anything to do with horses or boats you must know how to +make the proper ties for hitching the horse to a post, or a boat to a +tree, stump, or anything else that is handy. + +The half-hitch is a loop around a rope with the short end secured under +the loop (Fig. 69). This answers for a temporary, but not a secure, +fastening. + + +=Timber-Hitch= + +When you want a temporary fastening, secure yet easily undone, make a +_timber-hitch_ (Fig. 70). Pass the rope around an object, take a +half-hitch around the rope, and pass the short end once more between the +rope and the object. + + +=Hitching Tie= + +If the hitching tie is properly made, and the knot turned to the _right_ +of the post, the stronger the pull on the long end of the rope, the +tighter the hold, and the loop will not slip down even on a smooth, +plain post. If the knot is turned to the left, or is directly in front, +the loop will not pull tight and will slide down. For the reason that +the loop will tighten, the _hitching tie_ should never be used around +the neck of a horse, as it might pull tight and the animal be strangled. + +In making the hitching tie, first pass the rope from left to right +around the post, tree, or stump; bring it together and hold in the left +hand. The left hand is represented by the arrow (Fig. 71). With the +right hand throw the short end of the rope across the ropes in front of +the left hand, forming a loop below the left hand (Fig. 72). Slip the +right hand through this loop, grasp the rope just in front, and pull it +back to form a bight, as you make a chain-stitch in crocheting (Fig. +73). Down through this last bight pass the end of the rope and pull the +knot tight (Fig. 74). + +[Illustration: 68 + +68 69 70 + +71 72 73 74 + +The halter, slip-knot, and hitching-tie.] + + + + +CHAPTER XII + +ACCIDENTS + +=Sprains. Bruises. Burns. Cuts. Sunstroke. Drowning= + + +One learns quickly how to take care of oneself while on the trail, and +serious accidents seldom occur. In fact, every member of the party takes +pride in keeping herself free from accident; it is so like a tenderfoot +to get hurt. However, it is well to be prepared in case accidents do +occur, and this chapter is intended to forearm you that you may not +stand helplessly by when your aid is needed. + + +=Sprains and Bruises= + +The best immediate treatment for ordinary sprains and bruises is the +application of _cloths dipped in very hot water_. This takes out the +soreness and prevents inflammation. As soon as one application cools a +little, a hot one should take its place, as hot as can be borne without +scalding the flesh. Very cold water can be used when hot is not +obtainable. For a sprained ankle or wrist continue this treatment for a +while and then bind smoothly and firmly with a clean cotton bandage. +Keep as quiet as possible with a sprained ankle, and if the accident +occurs when on a walk the fireman's lift may be used for carrying the +injured person to camp. + +[Illustration: The fireman's lift.] + + +=Fireman's Lift= + +To be able to use the fireman's lift may be to save a life, as it can be +employed when there is but one person to do the carrying. With +practise any girl of ordinary strength can lift and carry another of her +own size or even larger. + +In order to make the lift easy, instruct the patient to relax all her +muscles and become perfectly limp; then turn her on her face, stand over +her body with one foot at each side, face toward the patient's head. +Lean forward and place your hands under her arms, then gently raise her +to her knees, next slide your hands quickly down around her body at the +low waist-line, lifting her at the same time to her feet. Immediately +grasp her right wrist with your left hand, and pass your head under her +right arm and your right arm under one or both of her knees, shifting +the patient's hips well on your shoulders, rise to a standing position +and carry patient away. + + +=Cuts= + +The accidents that most frequently happen are simple cuts and bruises. + +For a slight cut wash the wound in lukewarm water to remove all dirt or +foreign matter, then press the lips or sides together and hold them in +place with strips of court-plaster or surgeon's adhesive plaster. Do not +cover the entire wound with the plaster, but put strips across at right +angles with the cut, leaving a space between every two strips and using +only enough plaster to keep the cut closed. Cover the hurt part with a +bandage to protect it from further injury. + +[Illustration: The tourniquet. + +Blanket stretcher. + +Aids in "first aid."] + + +=When an Artery is Cut= + +When an artery is cut the wound is more serious and the bleeding must be +stopped _immediately_. When the blood comes from an artery it is bright +red in color and flows copiously in spurts or jets. The blood in the +arteries is flowing away from the heart, therefore you must stop it +between the cut and the heart. It is the arteries in the arms and legs +that are most likely to be injured. In the arm the large artery runs +down the inner side of the upper arm. In the leg the artery runs down +the inner side of the upper leg. + + +=The Tourniquet= + +To stop the bleeding press the artery _above_ the wound firmly with your +fingers while some one prepares a tourniquet. Use a handkerchief, a +necktie, or anything of the kind for a tourniquet; tie it loosely around +the limb and in the bandage place a smooth stone (or something that will +take its place), adjusting it just above your fingers on the artery. +Then slip a strong, slender stick about ten inches long under the +bandage at the outer side of the arm or leg and turn the stick around +like the hand of a clock, until the stone presses the artery just as +your fingers did. Tie the stick above and below the bandage to keep it +from untwisting. + +_Do not forget_ that the tourniquet is cutting off circulation, and for +this to continue very long is dangerous. It is not safe to keep it on +more than one hour without loosening. If the hand or foot grows cold and +numb before that time loosen the tourniquet and rub briskly to restore +circulation. Should the wound begin to bleed again when the tourniquet +is loosened, be ready to tighten at once. + +In case of an accident of this kind summon a physician, if one can be +reached quickly. If not, take the patient to the nearest doctor, for the +artery must be tied as soon as possible and only a physician or skilful +trained nurse can do that part of the work. + + +=Emergency Stretchers= + +Loss of blood is too weakening to permit of the patient walking, and the +exertion may start the wound bleeding again, so a stretcher of some kind +must be contrived in which she may be carried. You can make a good +emergency stretcher of two strong poles of _green_ wood, one large +blanket, and the ever-useful horse-blanket safety-pins. The poles should +be about six feet long, of a size to clasp easily in your hand, and as +smooth as they can be made with hurried work. They should, at least, be +free from jagged stumps or branches and twigs. + +Begin by folding the blanket through the middle _over_ one of the poles, +then pin the blanket together with the large safety-pins, with the pins +about six inches apart, to hold the pole in place. That finishes one +side; for the other, lap the two edges of the blanket over the second +pole and pin them down like a hem. The stretcher will be of double +thickness and will hold the injured person comfortably. + +If a serious accident should occur some distance from camp and there are +no blankets to use, do not hesitate to appropriate for a stretcher +whatever you have with you. When there is nothing else cut your khaki +skirt into strips about twelve inches wide and tie the ends to two poles +(the poles need not be smooth except at the ends), leaving spaces +between. + + +=Burns and Scalds= + +Personally I have repudiated the old method of treating simple burns and +scalds and, instead of applying oil or flour, have discovered for myself +that simply holding a slightly burned finger or hand in a running stream +of cold water not only gives instant relief but prevents the pain from +returning in any severity. Care of the injured part to prevent the skin +from breaking and causing a sore is the only thing left to be done. +However, here are the ordinary remedies for burns. Any of the following +things spread over a piece of linen or soft cotton cloth are said to be +good: olive-oil, carbolized vaseline, fresh lard, cream, flour, and +baking-soda. For serious burns a physician should be called. + + +=Heat Prostration and Sunstroke= + +This will seldom occur in a camp of healthy girls whose stomachs and +blood are in good order, but it is best not to expose oneself to the +fierce rays of the sun during a period of intense heat, or directly +after eating. In case any one is overcome and complains of feeling +faint, and of dizziness and throbbing head, take her where it is cool, +in the shade if possible, lay her down, loosen her clothing, and apply +cold water to her face and head. She will probably be able to walk when +she revives, but if not, carry her home or into camp. _Do not give +whiskey, brandy, or any stimulants._ + + +=Cinder or Foreign Substance in the Eye= + +As a rule all that is necessary to remove "something" in your eye is to +take the eyelashes of the upper lid between your thumb and forefinger +and pull the lid down over the lower one. The lower lashes thus shut in, +combined with the tears that flood the eye, will clean the eye in most +cases. + +If the cinder or other substance is embedded in the upper lid, roll back +the lid over a match (the sulphur end taken off), then moisten a corner +of a handkerchief and with it remove the cinder. If this treatment does +not avail and the substance cannot be removed, put a drop of olive-oil +in the eye, close it and cover with a soft bandage, then go to a +physician. _Do not put anything stiff or hard into the eye._ + + +=Fainting= + +Fainting occurs most often in overheated and over-crowded places where +the air is impure. The proper treatment is to lay the patient flat on +her back with the head lower than the rest of the body and feet raised; +then loosen the clothes at waist and neck, sprinkle the face and neck +with cold water, and hold smelling salts or ammonia to the nostrils. +Insist upon giving her all the fresh air possible. It is good also to +rub the limbs with the motion upward toward the body. + + +=Drowning--Shafer Method= + +Secure a doctor if possible, but do not wait for him. Do not _wait_ for +anything; what you do, do _instantly_. + +As soon as the rescued person is out of the water begin treatment to +restore respiration, that is, to make her _breathe_. If you can do this +her life will probably be saved. Not until the patient breathes +naturally must you work to bring warmth and circulation to the body. To +promote circulation _before_ the patient _breathes naturally_ may +endanger her life. + +First quickly loosen the clothes at waist and neck; then turn the +patient face downward on the ground with face either downward or turned +to one side, arms extended above the head, and with chest raised +slightly from the ground and resting upon your folded skirt. Also place +something beneath her forehead to raise her nose and mouth from the +ground. This will allow the tongue to fall forward. If it does not, +grasp it with handkerchief and pull forward; this will permit the water +to run out and will provide room for breathing. + +As in cases of fainting, so with drowning patient, she must have all the +air possible, for she is being suffocated with water, so do not allow a +crowd to form around her. Keep every one back except those assisting in +the actual work of restoration. + +With the patient in the position described, kneel by her side or, better +still, astride of her, and let your hands fall into the spaces between +the short ribs. With your fingers turned outward and your weight falling +upon the palms of your hands, press steadily downward and forward to +expel the air from the lungs. Hold this position a fraction of a second, +count four, then gradually release the pressure to allow the air to +enter again through the throat. Count four, and again press down. +Continue this treatment for a while, then, using another method, slip +your hands under the patient at the waist-line and lift her up +sufficiently to allow her head to hang down as in illustration. + +Lower her gently and lift again. Do this several times. You will find +that the movement will force the water from the lungs out of the mouth +and help to produce artificial respiration. + +Return to the first method and continue the treatment until the breath +comes naturally. It may be an hour or two before there are any signs of +life such as a gasp or slight movement, then the breath must be +carefully aided by more gentle pressure until it comes easily without +help. + +Do not give up hope, and _do not stop working_. The work may be +continued many hours if done in relays, that is, several girls taking +part, each one in her turn. Remember, however, the treatment must be +continuous and no time be allowed to elapse when the change is being +made. + +[Illustration: Restoring respiration.] + + +=After Respiration Begins= + +With returning breath the first corner in recovery has been turned, but +the after treatment is very important. To restore circulation, begin by +rubbing the limbs _upward_ with a firm pressure. This sends the blood to +the heart. Warmth must now be supplied by blankets heated before a fire, +and hot stones or bricks may be placed at the thighs and at the soles of +the feet. Or the patient should be wrapped in a warm blanket, placed on +a stretcher, carried to camp, or to a house, and put to bed. Here +hot-water bottles may be used, and as soon as it is possible for her to +swallow, if nothing else can be obtained, give a little strong, hot +coffee, unsweetened and without milk. Lastly, keep the patient quiet and +let her sleep. + + +=Nosebleed= + +The simplest method of stopping the nosebleed is to hold something +_cold_ on the back of the neck (a large key will do) and pinch the +nostrils together; also cool the forehead with water and hold the arms +above the head. This is usually effective. + + + + +CHAPTER XIII + +CAMP FUN AND FROLICS + +=Active Sports and Games. Evenings in Camp. Around the Camp-Fire. Quiet +Games, Songs, and Stories. Lighting Fires Without a Match= + + +Camp fun should have a place, and an important one, in your plans for +the trail. For the time being the camp is your home and it should never +be allowed to become dull for want of a little gayety and wholesome +amusement. In a permanent camp there will be days when the entire party +will be loafing and then is the time to start a frolic of some kind. + + +=Obstacle Races= + +Competitive sports are always entertaining, and races, of one kind or +another, are the most exciting. The Boy Scouts have a race in which the +competitors drop first their staffs, then their hats, their neckties, +leggins, and, finally struggling out of the blouse of their uniform, +they drop that also. All this must be done while on the way and before +they cross a given line. At the line they turn to go back over the +course and, while running, take up their various belongings and put them +on before they reach the home goal. + +A race planned on these lines will be most amusing. A smooth course is +not necessary, you probably won't have it at camp, and to get over the +uneven ground, with the detentions of first dropping, then picking up +the articles dropped, will add to the excitement of the sport. An +entertaining variation of this will be to have those taking part in the +race appear in impromptu costumes (worn over the ordinary dress) which +they must remove piece by piece as they run and put the things all on +again while returning over the course. Such hastily adjusted costumes +cannot help but be funny. + + +=Medals= + +The winner of the race should be given a medal as a prize. The medal can +be made of any handy material. A tin circular disk cut from the top of a +tin can will do. Drive a nail through this tin medal near the edge and +pass a string through the hole so that it may be hung around the neck of +the winner. Or instead of giving a medal, the victor may be crowned, +like the ancient Greeks, with a wreath of leaves. + + +=Blindfold Obstacle Walk= + +Another amusing camp sport is the blindfold obstacle walk. Place six or +eight good-sized stones on the ground in a row, about two feet apart. +The stones should be flat on top so that you can stand a tin cup filled +with water on each stone. Let one member of the party make a trial trip +over the cups, stepping between them as she passes down the row; then +blindfold her, place two people as a guard, one on each side of her, to +hold her hands and prevent a fall, and let them lead her to the end of +the line of cups and tell her to go over it again. + +The guard will steady her in case she stumbles but must in no way guide +her course aright. The stepper will step high and be absurdly careful +not to kick over one of the cups, for wet feet would probably be the +result. Sometimes the stepper will leave the line of her own accord; +sometimes her guard will purposely, and without her knowing it, lead +her off the course and then her careful, high steps over nothing add to +the fun of the onlookers. + +Any number may take part in the sport, and in turn act as stepper. At +the end a prize should be given by vote to the one who afforded the +greatest amusement. + + +=Hunting the Quail= + +This is something like the old game of hide-and-seek, with which all +girls are familiar, and it will not be difficult to learn. The players +are divided into "hunter" and "quails." The hunter is "It," and any +counting-out rhyme will decide who is to take that part. When the +hunter, with closed eyes, has counted her hundred, and the quails have +scurried away to their hiding-places behind trees, bushes, or rocks, the +hunt begins, and at the same time begins the cry of the quails: +"Bob-White! Bob-White! Bob-White!" These calls, coming from every +direction, are very bewildering, and the hunter must be alert to detect +the direction of one particular sound and quick to see the flight of a +quail and catch her before she can reach the home goal and find shelter +there. The first quail caught becomes hunter in her turn, and the noisy, +rollicking game continues as long as the players wish. Another romping +game is called + + +=Trotting-Horse= + +It is warranted to put in circulation even the most sluggish blood and +to warm the coldest feet, and it is fine for the almost frosty weather +we sometimes have in the mountains. + +The players form a circle in marching order; that is, each girl faces +the back of another, with a space between every two players. +Trotting-horse, the "It" of the game, stands in the centre of the +circle. When she gives the signal, the players forming the circle begin +to run round and round, keeping the circle intact, while trotting-horse, +always trotting, tries to slip between the ranks, which close up to +prevent her escape. Trotting-horse must trot, not run. If she runs when +making her escape she must go back into the ring and try once more to +break away. When she succeeds fairly in getting through the ranks the +player in front of whom she slips becomes "It" and takes the place of +trotting-horse. + + +=Wood Tennis= + +Wood tennis is of the woods, woodsy. Green pine-cones take the place of +balls; hands, of rackets; and branches, of tennis-net. Lay out a regular +tennis-court by scraping the lines in the earth, or outlining the +boundaries with sticks or other convenient materials. Build a net of +branches by sticking the ends in the ground, and collect a number of +smooth, green cones for balls. + +Wood tennis must, of necessity, differ somewhat from the regulation +game. Since pine-cones will not bounce and there are no rackets for +striking them, they must be tossed across the net, caught in the hands, +and quickly tossed back. In other respects the rules of the established +game may be used entire or simplified if desired. + +[Illustration: WHEN DARKNESS CLOSES IN] + + +=Around the Camp-Fire= + +When darkness creeps through the woods, closing in closer and closer; +when it blots out, one by one, the familiar landmarks and isolates the +little camp in a sea of night, with the mutual wish for nearer +companionship, we gather around the camp-fire, the one light in all the +great darkness. We are grateful for its warmth, as the evenings are +chill, and its cheery blaze and crackle bring a feeling of hominess +and comfort welcome to every one. If there are men in the party they +light their pipes and then begin the stories of past experiences on the +trail, which are of the keenest interest to all campers. These stories, +told while one gazes dreamily into the glowing coals of the fire or +looks beyond the light into the mysterious blackness of the forest, have +a charm that is wanting under different surroundings. The stories are +not confined to the men, for in these days when girls and women are also +on the trail, they too can relate things worth the telling. + + +=Songs= + +Then come the songs. If there is some one in the party who can lead in +singing, she can use a familiar air with a rousing chorus as a frame +upon which to hang impromptu verses, made up of personalities and local +hits. This is always fun and you are surprised how quickly doggerel +rhymes suggest themselves when your turn comes to furnish a verse to the +song. + +The leader begins something like this, using, perhaps, the air and +refrain of an old chantey or college song. + + _Leader_ + "I spotted a beaver, + But he wasn't very nye." + + _Chorus_ + "Don't you rock so hard!" + + _Second Soloist_ + "His fur was all ragged + And he had but one eye." + + _Chorus_ + "Don't you rock so hard. + Oh! You rock and I rock, and + Don't you rock so hard! + Everybody rocks when I rock, and + Don't you rock so hard." + + _Third Soloist_ + "You may laugh at the beaver, + But he's always up to time." + + _Chorus_ + "Don't you rock so hard!" + + _Fourth Soloist_ + "Oh, do drop the beaver, + And start a new rhyme." + + _Chorus as before_ + +A song like this may go on indefinitely or until the rhyming powers of +the party are exhausted. + + +=Bird-Call Match= + +In a camp where the members are all familiar with the calls of the +various wild birds, a bird-call match makes a charming game when the +party is gathered around the camp-fire. The leader begins by whistling +or singing the call of a wild bird; if it can be put into words so much +the better. For instance, we will take the first few notes of the +wood-thrush, which F. Schuyler Mathews has put into notes and words as +follows: + +[Illustration: Music: Come to me, I am here. + +Wood-thrush.] + +Or the yellow-throated vireo, which he gives in this way: + +[Illustration: Music: See me! I'm here, Where are you? + +Yellow vireo.] + +If the leader is correct the next player gives the call of another bird. +When a player gives a bird call which is known to be incorrect--that is, +absolutely wrong--and some one else can supply the proper rendering, the +first player is dropped from the game just as a person is dropped out of +a spelling-match when she misspells a word. If there is no one who can +give the call correctly, she retains her place. This is excellent +training in woodcraft as well as a fascinating game. Your ears will be +quickened to hear and to identify the bird calls by playing it; and +storing bird notes in your memory for use in the next bird-call match +will become a habit. + + +=Vary the Game= + +You can vary this game by giving the calls of wild animals and the +characteristic noises they make when frightened or angry. + +Living even for a short time in the wild will develop unsuspected +faculties and qualities in your make-up, and to perfect yourself in +knowledge of the woods and its inhabitants will seem of the utmost +importance. While learning the cries of birds and animals in sport, you +will wish to retain them in earnest, and to enter the wilderness +equipped with some knowledge of its languages, will open vistas to you +that the more ignorant cannot penetrate. + + +=Lighting the Fire Without a Match= + +A fire-lighting contest is the best of camp sports, for it requires +practise and skill, and to excel in it is to acquire distinction among +all outdoor people. There are girls in the Girl Pioneers Organization +who are as proficient in lighting a fire without matches as any of the +Boy Scouts who make much of the feat. + + +=Bow-and-Drill Method= + +The bow-and-drill method is the most popular among girls and boys alike, +and for this, as for all other ways of lighting a fire, you must have +the proper appliances and will probably have to make them yourself. + +Unlike the bow used for archery, the fire-bow is not to be bent by the +bow-string but must have a permanent curve. Choose a piece of sapling +about eighteen or twenty inches long which curves evenly; cut a notch +around it at each end and at the notched places attach a string of +rawhide of the kind used as shoe-strings in hunting-shoes. Tie the +bow-string to the bow in the manner shown in Fig. 75, and allow it to +hang loosely. It must _not_ be taut as for archery. + +[Illustration: MAKE THE BOW-STRING SLACK + +77 + +75 + +76 + +Fire without matches.] + + +To the bow must be added the twirling-stick and fireboard (Fig. 76). +Make these of spruce. The twirling-stick, spindle, or fire-drill should +be a little over half an inch in diameter and sixteen inches long. Its +sides may be rounded or bevelled in six or seven flat spaces like a +lead-pencil, as shown in Fig. 76. Cut the top end to a blunt point and +sharpen the bottom end as you would a lead-pencil, leaving the lead +blunt. To hold the spindle you must have something to protect your hand. +A piece of soapstone or a piece of very hard wood will answer. This is +called the socket-block. In the wood or stone make a hole for a socket +that will hold the top end of the spindle (Fig. 76). + +The flat piece of spruce for your fireboard should be about two feet +long and a little less than one inch thick. Cut a number of triangular +notches in one edge of the board as in Fig. 76. Make the outer end of +each notch about half an inch wide, and at the inner end make a small, +cup-like hole large enough to hold the lower end of the twirling-stick. +This is called the fire pit. The reason you are to have so many notches +is because when one hole becomes too much enlarged by the drilling of +the twirling-stick, or is bored all the way through, it is discarded and +there must be others ready and prepared for immediate use. + + +=Tinder= + +All is now ready for creating a spark, but that spark cannot live alone, +it must have something it can ignite before there will be a flame. What +is wanted is tinder, and tinder can be made of various materials, all of +which must be _absolutely dry_. Here is one receipt for making tinder +given by Daniel C. Beard: "The tinder is composed of baked and blackened +cotton and linen rags. The best way to prepare these rags is to bake +them until they are dry as dust, then place them on the hearth and touch +a match to them. As soon as they burst into flame, smother the flame +with a folded newspaper, then carefully put your punk (baked and charred +rags) into a tin tobacco box or some other receptacle where it will keep +dry and be ready for use." + +This can be prepared at home. In the woods gather some of the dry inner +bark of the cedar, the fine, stringy edges of white or yellow birch, and +dry grasses, and dry them thoroughly at the camp-fire. + +Mr. Beard also says: "You can prepare tinder from dry, inflammable woods +or barks by grinding or pounding them between two flat stones. If you +grind up some charcoal (taken from your camp-fire) very fine to mix with +it, this will make it all the more inflammable. A good, safe method to +get a flame from your fine tinder is to wrap up a small amount of it in +the shredded bark of birch or cedar, so that you may hold it in your +hand until it ignites from the embers produced by the saw." + +With all your material at hand for starting a fire, make one turn around +the spindle, with the bow-string, as in Fig. 76. Place the point of the +lower end of the spindle in the small hole or "fire pit" at the inside +end of a notch in the fireboard, fit the socket-block on the top end of +the spindle (Fig. 76), and hold it in place with one hand, as shown in +Fig. 77. Grasp one end of the bow with the other hand and saw it back +and forth. This will whirl the spindle rapidly and cause the friction +which makes the heat that produces the spark. When it begins to smoke, +fan it with your hand and light your tinder from the sparks. + + +=Without the Bow= + +Fig. 78 shows a method which is the same as Fig. 77, the only difference +being that the bow is dispensed with, the hands alone being used for +twirling the spindle. While simpler, it is very difficult to put +sufficient force and speed into the work to produce fire, and it is a +very tiresome process. Another way is shown in Fig. 79. It will take two +girls to work in this fashion. The spindle is whirled by pulling the +leather shoe-string back and forth. One girl holds the spindle and +steadies the fireboard while the other does the twirling. + +[Illustration: THE RUBBING STICK + +80 + +THE PLOW + +78 79 + +81 + +SLIT BAMBOO + +SAW + +Fire without the bow.] + + +=The Plough= + +It is more difficult to produce fire by the plough method than with the +bow, but it can be done. The appliances are simple enough. All you need +is a fireboard in which a groove or gutter has been cut, and a +rubbing-stick to push up and down the gutter (Fig. 80). + +Other woods than spruce are used with success for fire-drills and +fireboards, but all must be dry. These are soft maple, cedar, balsam, +tamarack, cottonwood root, and _white_, not pitch, pine. + + +=Bamboo Fire-Saw= + +Part of an old bamboo fishing-rod will supply material for the fire-saw. +Cut off a piece of bamboo about fifteen inches long, split it, and +sharpen the edge of one piece to a knife-like thinness. Lay the other +half down with the curved surface up and cut a slit in it through which +the sharp edge of the saw can be passed. One or two girls can work this. +When there are two, one girl holds the slit bamboo down firmly, while +the other does the sawing (Fig. 81). + +Put a little wad of tinder on a dry leaf and arrange it where the +powdered sawdust will fall on it. When the powder becomes sufficiently +hot there will be sparks and these, falling into the tinder, can be +fanned into a flame by waving your hand over it. You will not see the +spark but when smoke arises you will know that it is there. Fan gently, +else you will blow the fire out, and keep on fanning until your flame is +started. + + + + +CHAPTER XIV + +HAPPY AND SANE SUNDAY IN CAMP + + +It is a good idea to carefully plan for your Sundays in camp, have every +hour mapped out and never allow the time to drag. Make special effort +and determine that the day shall be the very happiest day of each week, +a day in which every one of the campers will be especially interested +and will look forward to with genuine pleasure. + +Sit down quietly and think it all out. You will want the day to differ +from week-days; you will want it filled with the real life, not +half-life, the life only of the physical and mental, but the true, +entire life for each camper; you will want to emphasize this higher, +inner life, which is the spiritual. + +To this end, when you arise in the morning, form the resolution that the +day shall be a peaceful, enjoyable one for all the girls. When you take +your morning plunge resolve that not only will you be physically clean, +but you will also be both mentally and spiritually clean; then all +through the day keep in mind that you _can_ rule your thoughts and that +you _will_, for power to do this will be given to you from the source of +all power. Allow not one thought to remain which is not kind, friendly, +cheerful, and peaceful. Should other thoughts intrude be firm and severe +with them, have no mercy on them, talk to those thoughts as you would to +robbers and thieves, tell them to go, _go_, GO, BEGONE, that you have +nothing in common with them and you _command_ them to _go_; then +immediately busy yourself with active work, building the fire, cooking, +tidying up the camp, etc. + +Have your Sunday breakfast especially nice, with a few flowers, vines, +leaves, or grasses on the table for a Sunday centrepiece, and keep the +conversation on wholesome, happy topics. + +After breakfast is over and the camp in order, with all the campers go +for a short walk to some attractive spot either by the water or inland, +and when the place is reached, having previously selected certain songs +containing cheerful, religious elements, ask the entire camp to join in +the singing. If one of the girls can sing a solo, let her do so, or it +may be that two can sing a duet; then sit quietly while one of the group +reads something helpful, interesting, and beautiful, which will be +verses from the Bible probably, but may be one of Emerson's essays, or +extracts from other thoughtful and helpful writers. + +Close the simple exercises with another hymn and return to camp. + +In addition to the camp dinner prepare some one dish as a pleasant +surprise for the other girls. When dinner is over, the dishes washed, +and camp again in order, the girls should have one hour of quiet, to +read, write letters, sketch, or lie down and rest. Each camper should +respect the demands of the hour for quiet and rest and _not talk_, but +leave her companions to their own thoughts and occupations. If you +should see your special friend seated off by herself, do not disturb her +during the rest hour; it is each girl's right to remain unmolested at +that time. + +When the hour is up, the campers can each pack her portion of the +evening meal, and in a moment's time be ready to hit the trail, or take +the canoe for a paddle to the place previously selected where supper is +to be enjoyed, and if the trip be on land, all may play the observation +game while on the way. + + +=Observation Game= + +The leader counts 3 to the credit of the girl who first sees a squirrel, +2 for the girl who sees the second one, and 1 for every succeeding +squirrel discovered by any member of the party. A bird counts 6, if +identified 12. A wood-mouse counts 4, when identified 8. A deer 20, +beaver 12, muskrat 8, chipmunk 10, porcupine 14, eagle 30, mink 16, +rabbit 1. The player holding the highest record when reaching the supper +grounds is victor. Keep your records tacked up in your shelter to +compare with those you will make on the following Sunday. + +In this game every time a player stumbles on the trail 5 is taken from +her credit; if she falls, she loses 10. + +It is a rule of the game that the winner be congratulated by each camper +in turn, that she be crowned with a wreath of leaves, grasses, or vines +and sit at the head of the table. Keep this game for your Sunday +afternoons and play others during the week. + +In the evening, as the campers sit quietly around the camp-fire, if the +camp director will talk to the girls gently and seriously for a little +while on some phase of their real life, the talk will be welcome and +appreciated; then just before retiring all should stand while singing +the good-night song. + +It is hardly possible to present Sunday plans for each variety of camp +and campers. The suggestions given are for helping girl campers to look +upon Sunday in its true light, and to aid them in working out plans in +accordance with the purpose of the day, that they may enjoy happy, sane +Sundays in camp. + + * * * * * + +Transcriber's Notes: + +Obvious punctuation errors repaired. + +Hyphen added to bow-line twice in list of illustrations to conform to +text usage. + +Hyphen added to illustration of High-Bush Blueberry to conform to text +usage. + +Hyphen was removed from illustrations involving footprints to conform to +text. + +Page 27, hyphen added to fire-wood to conform to rest of text. (chop +fire-wood) + +Page 78, hyphen removed from cheese-cloth to conform to rest of text. +(piece of new cheesecloth) + +Page 221, double word "the" changed to one. (stand near the edge) + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's On the Trail, by Lina Beard and Adelia Belle Beard + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ON THE TRAIL *** + +***** This file should be named 18525.txt or 18525.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/1/8/5/2/18525/ + +Produced by Audrey Longhurst, Emmy and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, +set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to +copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to +protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark. Project +Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you +charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission. If you +do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the +rules is very easy. You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose +such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and +research. They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do +practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks. Redistribution is +subject to the trademark license, especially commercial +redistribution. + + + +*** START: FULL LICENSE *** + +THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE +PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK + +To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free +distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work +(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project +Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project +Gutenberg-tm License (available with this file or online at +http://gutenberg.org/license). + + +Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic works + +1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to +and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property +(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all +the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy +all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession. +If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the +terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or +entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8. + +1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be +used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who +agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few +things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works +even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See +paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement +and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. See paragraph 1.E below. + +1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation" +or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual works in the +collection are in the public domain in the United States. If an +individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are +located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from +copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative +works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg +are removed. Of course, we hope that you will support the Project +Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by +freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of +this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with +the work. You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by +keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project +Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others. + +1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern +what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are in +a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, check +the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement +before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or +creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project +Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no representations concerning +the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United +States. + +1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: + +1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate +access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently +whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the +phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project +Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed, +copied or distributed: + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + +1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived +from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is +posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied +and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees +or charges. If you are redistributing or providing access to a work +with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the +work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 +through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the +Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or +1.E.9. + +1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted +with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution +must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional +terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms will be linked +to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the +permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work. + +1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this +work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm. + +1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this +electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without +prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with +active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project +Gutenberg-tm License. + +1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, +compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any +word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access to or +distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than +"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version +posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org), +you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a +copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon +request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other +form. Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. + +1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, +performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works +unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. + +1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing +access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided +that + +- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from + the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method + you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is + owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he + has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the + Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments + must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you + prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax + returns. Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and + sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the + address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to + the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation." + +- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies + you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he + does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm + License. You must require such a user to return or + destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium + and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of + Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any + money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the + electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days + of receipt of the work. + +- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free + distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set +forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from +both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael +Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark. Contact the +Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below. + +1.F. + +1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable +effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread +public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm +collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain +"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or +corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual +property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a +computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by +your equipment. + +1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right +of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project +Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all +liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal +fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT +LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE +PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH F3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE +TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE +LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR +INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH +DAMAGE. + +1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a +defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can +receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a +written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you +received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with +your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you with +the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a +refund. If you received the work electronically, the person or entity +providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to +receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If the second copy +is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further +opportunities to fix the problem. + +1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth +in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS' WITH NO OTHER +WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO +WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTIBILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. + +1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied +warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages. +If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the +law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be +interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by +the applicable state law. The invalidity or unenforceability of any +provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions. + +1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the +trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone +providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance +with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production, +promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works, +harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees, +that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do +or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm +work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any +Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause. + + +Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm + +Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of +electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers +including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It exists +because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from +people in all walks of life. + +Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the +assistance they need, is critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's +goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will +remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure +and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations. +To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation +and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4 +and the Foundation web page at http://www.pglaf.org. + + +Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive +Foundation + +The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit +501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the +state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal +Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification +number is 64-6221541. Its 501(c)(3) letter is posted at +http://pglaf.org/fundraising. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent +permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws. + +The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S. +Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered +throughout numerous locations. Its business office is located at +809 North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887, email +business@pglaf.org. Email contact links and up to date contact +information can be found at the Foundation's web site and official +page at http://pglaf.org + +For additional contact information: + Dr. Gregory B. Newby + Chief Executive and Director + gbnewby@pglaf.org + + +Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation + +Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide +spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of +increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be +freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest +array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations +($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt +status with the IRS. + +The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating +charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United +States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a +considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up +with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations +where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To +SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any +particular state visit http://pglaf.org + +While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we +have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition +against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who +approach us with offers to donate. + +International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make +any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from +outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. + +Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation +methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other +ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations. +To donate, please visit: http://pglaf.org/donate + + +Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. + +Professor Michael S. Hart is the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm +concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared +with anyone. For thirty years, he produced and distributed Project +Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support. + + +Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S. +unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not necessarily +keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. + + +Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: + + http://www.gutenberg.org + +This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, +including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to +subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. diff --git a/18525.zip b/18525.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9196d34 --- /dev/null +++ b/18525.zip diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..cde3df0 --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #18525 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/18525) |
