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+Project Gutenberg's Voyage of the Liberdade, by Captain Joshua Slocum
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Voyage of the Liberdade
+
+Author: Captain Joshua Slocum
+
+Release Date: June 9, 2006 [EBook #18541]
+[Last updated: February 6, 2021]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK VOYAGE OF THE LIBERDADE ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by David Garcia, Martin Pettit and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+VOYAGE OF THE LIBERDADE
+
+
+Captain Joshua Slocum
+
+
+
+
+Robinson & Stephenson Boston 1890
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+CHAPTER I: PAGE 1
+
+The ship--The crew--A hurricane--Cape Verde Islands--Frio--A _pampeiro_.
+
+
+CHAPTER II: PAGE 8
+
+Montevideo--Beggars--Antonina for maté--Antonina to Buenos Aires--The
+_bombelia_.
+
+
+CHAPTER III: PAGE 11
+
+Salvage of a cargo of wine--Sailors happy--Cholera in the
+Argentine--Death in the land--Dutch Harry--Pete the Greek--Noted
+crimps--Boat lost--Sail for Ilha Grande--Expelled from the port--Serious
+hardships.
+
+
+CHAPTER IV: PAGE 20
+
+Ilha Grande decree--Return to Rosario--Waiting opening of the Brazilian
+ports--Scarcity of sailors--Buccaneers turned pilots--Sail down the
+river--Arrive at Ilha Grande the second time--Quarantined and
+fumigated--Admitted to _pratique_--Sail for Rio--Again challenged--Rio
+at last.
+
+
+CHAPTER V: PAGE 27
+
+At Rio--Sail for Antonina with mixed cargo--A _pampeiro_--Ship on
+beam-ends--Cargo still more mixed--Topgallant-masts carried away--Arrive
+safely at Antonina.
+
+
+CHAPTER VI: PAGE 30
+
+Mutiny--Attempt at robbery and murder--Four against one--Two go down
+before a rifle--Order restored.
+
+
+CHAPTER VII: PAGE 37
+
+Join the bark at Montevideo--A good crew--Small-pox breaks out--Bear up
+for Maldonado and Floras--No aid--Death of sailors--To Montevideo in
+distress--Quarantine.
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII: PAGE 46
+
+A new crew--Sail for Antonina--Load timber--Native canoes--Loss of the
+_Aquidneck_.
+
+
+CHAPTER IX: PAGE 51
+
+The building of the _Liberdade_.
+
+
+CHAPTER X: PAGE 63
+
+Across the bar--The run to Santos--Tow to Rio by the steamship--At Rio.
+
+
+CHAPTER XI: PAGE 70
+
+Sail from Rio--Anchor at Cape Frio--Encounter with a whale--Sunken
+treasure--The schoolmaster--The merchant--The good people at the
+village--A pleasant visit.
+
+
+CHAPTER XII: PAGE 76
+
+Sail from Frio--Round Cape St. Thorne--High seas and swift currents--In
+the "trades"--Dangerous reefs--Run into harbour unawares, on a dark and
+stormy night--At Garavellas--Fine weather--A gale--Port St.
+Paulo--Treacherous natives--Sail for Bahia.
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII: PAGE 81
+
+At Bahia--Meditations on the discoverers--The Caribbees.
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV: PAGE 84
+
+Bahia to Pernambuco--The meeting of the _Finance_ at sea--At
+Pernambuco--Round Cape St. Roque--A gale--Breakers--The stretch to
+Barbadoes--Flying-fish alighting on deck--Dismasted--Arrive at Carlysle
+Bay.
+
+
+CHAPTER XV: PAGE 95
+
+At Barbadoes--Mayaguez--Crossing the Bahama Banks--The Gulf
+Stream--Arrival on the coast of South Carolina.
+
+
+CHAPTER XVI: PAGE 107
+
+Ocean Currents--Visit to South Santee--At the Typee
+River--Quarantined--South Port and Wilmington, N.C.--Inland sailing to
+Beaufort, Norfolk and Washington, D.C.--Voyage ended.
+
+
+DISPOSAL OF THE LIBERDADE: PAGE 117
+
+
+
+
+LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+
+Diagram of the _Liberdade_                                52
+
+The _Liberdade_                                           62
+
+
+MAP
+
+Course of the _Liberdade_ from Paranagua to Barbadoes     69
+
+
+
+
+GREETING
+
+
+This literary craft of mine, in its native model and rig, goes out laden
+with the facts of the strange happenings on a home afloat. Her
+constructor, a sailor for many years, could have put a whole cargo of
+salt, so to speak, in the little packet; but would not so wantonly
+intrude on this domain of longshore navigators. Could the author and
+constructor but box-haul, club-haul, tops'l-haul, and catharpin like the
+briny sailors of the strand, ah me!--and hope to be forgiven!
+
+Be the current against us, what matters it? Be it in our favour, we are
+carried hence, to what place or for what purpose? Our plan of the whole
+voyage is so insignificant that it matters little, maybe, whither we go,
+for the "grace of a day" is the same! Is it not a recognition of this
+which makes the old sailor happy, though in the storm; and hopeful even
+on a plank in mid-ocean? Surely it is this! for the spiritual beauty of
+the sea, absorbing man's soul, permits of no infidels on its boundless
+expanse.
+
+                                                          THE AUTHOR
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I
+
+     The ship--The crew--A hurricane--Cape Verde Islands--Frio--A
+     _pampeiro_.
+
+
+To get underweigh: It was on the 28th of February 1886, that the bark
+_Aquidneck_, laden with case-oil, sailed from New York for Montevideo,
+the capital of Uruguay, the strip of land bounding the River Plate on
+the east, and called by the natives "Banda Oriental." The _Aquidneck_
+was a trim and tidy craft of 326 tons' register, hailing from Baltimore,
+the port noted for clippers, and being herself high famed above them all
+for swift sailing, she had won admiration on many seas.
+
+Her crew mustered ten, all told; twelve had been the complement, when
+freights were good. There were, beside the crew with regular stations, a
+little lad, aged about six years, and his mamma (age immaterial),
+privileged above the rest, having "all nights in"--that is, not having
+to stand watch. The mate, Victor, who is to see many adventures before
+reaching New York again, was born and bred on shipboard. He was in
+perfect health, and as strong as a windlass. When he first saw the light
+and began to give orders, he was at San Francisco on the packet
+_Constitution_, the vessel lost in the tempest at Samoa, just before the
+great naval disaster at the same place in the year of 1889. Garfield,
+the little lad above mentioned, Victor's brother, in this family ship,
+was born in Hong Kong harbour, in the old bark _Amethyst_, a bona-fide
+American citizen, though first seeing the light in a foreign port, the
+Stars and Stripes standing sponsors for his nationality. This bark had
+braved the wind and waves for fifty-eight years, but had not, up to that
+date, so far as I know, experienced so lively a breeze as the one which
+sprung up about her old timbers on that eventful 3rd of March, 1880.
+
+Our foremast hands on the _Aquidneck_, six in number, were from as many
+nations, strangers to me and strangers to each other; but the cook, a
+negro, was a native American--to the manner born. To have even so many
+Americans in one ship was considered exceptional.
+
+Much or little as matters this family history and description of the
+crew: the day of our sailing was bitter-cold and stormy, boding no good
+for the coming voyage, which was to be, indeed, the most eventful of my
+life of more than five-and-thirty years at sea. Studying the morning
+weather report, before sailing, we saw predicted a gale from the
+nor'west, and one also approaching from the sou'west at the same time.
+"The prospect," said the New York papers, "is not encouraging." We were
+anxious, however, to commence the voyage, having a crew on board, and,
+being all ready, we boldly sailed, somewhat against our better judgment.
+The nor'wester blowing, at the time, at the rate of forty miles an hour,
+increased to eighty or ninety miles by March 2nd. This hurricane
+continued through March 3rd, and gave us serious concern for the ship
+and all on board.
+
+At New York, on those days, the wind howled from the north, with the
+"storm centre somewhere on the Atlantic," so said the wise seamen of the
+weather bureau, to whom, by the way, the real old salt is indebted, at
+the present day, for information of approaching storms, sometimes days
+ahead. The prognostication was correct, as we can testify, for out on
+the Atlantic our bark could carry only a mere rag of a foresail,
+somewhat larger than a table-cloth, and with this storm-sail she went
+flying before the tempest, all those dark days, with a large "bone in
+her mouth,"[1] making great headway, even under the small sail.
+Mountains of seas swept clean over the bark in their mad race, filling
+her decks full to the top of the bulwarks, and shaking things generally.
+
+Our men were lashed, each one to his station; and all spare spars not
+doubly lashed were washed away, along with other movables that were
+broken and torn from their fastenings by the wild storm.
+
+The cook's galley came in for its share of the damage, the cook himself
+barely escaping serious injury from a sea that went thundering across
+the decks, taking with it doors, windows, galley stove, pots, kettles
+and all, together with the culinary artist; landing the whole wreck in
+the lee scuppers, but, most fortunately, with the professor on top. A
+misfortune like this is always--felt. It dampens one's feelings, so to
+speak. It means cold food for a time to come, if not even worse fare.
+
+The day following our misfortune, however, was not so bad. In fact, the
+tremendous seas boarding the bark latterly were indications of the good
+change coming, for it meant that her speed had slackened through a lull
+of the gale, allowing the seas to reach her too full and heavy.
+
+More sail was at once crowded on, and still more was set at every stage
+of the abatement of the gale, for the craft should not be lazy when big
+seas race after her. And so on we flew, like a scud, sheeting home sail
+after sail as required, till the 5th of March, when all of her white
+wings were spread, and she fairly "walked the waters like a thing of
+life." There was now wind enough for several days, but not too much,
+and our swift-sailing craft laughed at the seas trying to catch her.
+
+Cheerily on we sailed for days and days, pressed by the favouring gale,
+meeting the sun each day a long span earlier, making daily four degrees
+of longitude. It was the time, on these bright days, to forearm with dry
+clothing against future stormy weather. Boxes and bags were brought on
+deck, and drying and patching went on by wholesale in the watch below,
+while the watch on deck bestirred themselves putting the ship in order.
+"Chips," the carpenter, mended the galley; the cook's broken shins were
+plastered up; and in a few days all was well again. And the sailors,
+moving cheerfully about once more in their patched garments of varied
+hues, reminded me of the spotted cape pigeons pecking for a living, the
+pigeons, I imagined, having a better life of the two. A panican of hot
+coffee or tea by sailors called "water bewitched," a sea-biscuit, and
+"bit of salt-horse," had regaled the crew and restored their voices.
+Then "Reuben Ranzo" was heard on the breeze, and the main tack was
+boarded to the tune of "Johnny Boker." Other wondrous songs through the
+night-watch could be heard in keeping with the happy time. Then what
+they would do and what they wouldn't do in the next port was talked of,
+when song and yarn ran out.
+
+Hold fast, shipmate, hold fast and belay! or the crimps of Montevideo
+will wear the new jacket you promise yourself, while you will be off
+Cape Horn, singing "Haul out to leeward," with a wet stocking on your
+neck, and with the same old "lamby" on, that long since was "lamby" only
+in name, the woolly part having given way to a cloth worn much in "Far
+Cathay"; in short, you will dress in dungaree, the same as now, while
+the crimps and landsharks divide your scanty earnings, unless you "take
+in the slack" of your feelings, and "make all fast and steady all."
+
+Ten days out, and we were in the northeast "trades"--porpoises were
+playing under the bows as only porpoises can play; dolphins were racing
+alongside, and flying-fish were all about. This was, indeed, a happy
+change, and like being transported to another world. Our hardships were
+now all forgotten, for "the sea washes off all the woes of men."
+
+One week more of pleasant sailing, all going orderly on board, and Cape
+Verde Islands came in sight. A grand and glorious sight they were! All
+hail, _terra firma_! It is good to look at you once again! By noon the
+islands were abeam, and the fresh trade-wind in the evening bore us out
+of sight of them before dark.
+
+Most delightful sailing is this large, swinging motion of our bark
+bounding over the waves, with the gale abaft the beam, driving her
+forward till she fairly leaps from billow to billow, as if trying to
+rival her companions, the very flying-fish. Thwarted now by a sea, she
+strikes it with her handsome bows, sending into the light countless
+thousand sprays, that shine like a nimbus of glory. The tread on her
+deck-plank is lighter now, and the little world afloat is gladsome fore
+and aft.
+
+Cape Frio (cold cape) was the next landfall. Upon reaching that point,
+we had crossed the Atlantic twice. The course toward Cape Verde Islands
+had been taken to avail ourselves of a leading wind through the
+south-east trades, the course from the islands to Frio being
+southwesterly. This latter stretch was spanned on an easy bow-line; with
+nothing eventful to record. Thence our course was through variable winds
+to the River Plate, where a _pampeiro_ was experienced that blew "great
+guns," and whistled a hornpipe through the rigging.
+
+These _pampeiros_ (winds from the _pampas_) usually blow with great
+fury, but give ample warning of their approach: the first sign being a
+spell of unsurpassed fine weather, with small, fleecy clouds floating so
+gently in the sky that one scarcely perceives their movements, yet they
+do move, like an immense herd of sheep grazing undisturbed on the great
+azure field. All this we witnessed, and took into account. Then
+gradually, and without any apparent cause, the clouds began to huddle
+together in large groups; a sign had been given which the elements
+recognized. Next came a flash of fire from behind the accumulating
+masses, then a distant rumbling noise. It was a note of warning, and one
+that no vessel should let pass unheeded. "Clew up, and furl!" was the
+order. To hand all sail when these fierce visitors are out on a frolic
+over the seas, and entertain them under bare poles, is the safest plan,
+unless, indeed, the best storm sails are bent; even then it is safest to
+goose-wing the tops'ls before the gale comes on. Not till the fury of
+the blast is spent does the ship require sail, for it is not till then
+that the sea begins to rise, necessitating sail to steady her.
+
+The first onslaught of the storm, levelling all before it, and sending
+the would-be waves flying across in sheets--sailor sheets, so to
+speak--lends a wild and fearful aspect; but there is no dread of a
+lee-shore in the sailor's heart at these times, for the gale is from off
+the land, as indicated by the name it bears.
+
+After the gale was a calm; following which came desirable winds, that
+carried us at last to the port we sought--Montevideo; where we cast
+anchor on the 5th of May, and made preparations, after the customs'
+visit, for discharging the cargo, which was finally taken into lighters
+from alongside to the piers, and thence to the warehouses, where ends
+the ship's responsibility to the owner of the goods. But not till then
+ceases the ship's liability, or the captain's care of the merchandise
+placed in his trust. Clearly the captain has cares on sea and on land.
+
+FOOTNOTE:
+
+[1] The white foam at the bows produced by fast sailing is, by
+sailors, called "a bone in her mouth."
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II
+
+     Montevideo--Beggars--Antonina for maté--Antonina to Buenos
+     Aires--The _bombelia_.
+
+
+Montevideo, sister city to Buenos Aires, is the fairer of the two to
+look upon from the sea, having a loftier situation, and, like Buenos
+Aires, boasts of many fine mansions, comely women, liberal schools, and
+a cemetery of great splendour.
+
+It is at Montevideo that the "beggar a-horse-back" becomes a verity
+(horses are cheap); galloping up to you the whining beggar will implore
+you, saying: "For the love of Christ, friend, give me a coin to buy
+bread with."
+
+From "the Mont" we went to Antonina, in Brazil, for a cargo of maté, a
+sort of tea, which, prepared as a drink, is wholesome and refreshing. It
+is partaken of by the natives in a highly sociable manner, through a
+tube which is thrust into the steaming beverage in a silver urn or a
+calabash, whichever may happen to be at hand when "drouthy neebors
+neebors meet"; then all sip and sip in bliss from the same tube, which
+is passed from mouth to mouth. No matter how many mouths there may be,
+the _bombelia_, as it is called, must reach them all. It may have to be
+replenished to make the drink go around, and several times, too, when
+the company is large. This is done with but little loss of time. By
+thrusting into the urn or gourd a spoonful of the herb, and two
+spoonfuls of sugar to a pint of water, which is poured, boiling, over
+it, the drink is made. But to give it some fancied extra flavour, a live
+coal (_carbo vegetable_) is plunged into the potion to the bottom. Then
+it is again passed around, beginning where it left off. Happy is he, if
+a stranger, who gets the first sip at the tube, but the initiated have
+no prejudices. While in that country I frequently joined in the social
+rounds at maté, and finally rejoiced in a _bombelia_ of my own.
+
+The people at Antonina (in fact all the people we saw in Brazil) were
+kind, extremely hospitable, and polite; living in thrift generally,
+their wants were but few beyond their resources. The mountain scenery,
+viewed from the harbour of Antonina, is something to gloat over; I have
+seen no place in the world more truly grand and pleasing. The climate,
+too, is perfect and healthy. The only doctor of the place, when we were
+there, wore a coat out at the elbows, for lack of patronage. A desirable
+port is Antonina.
+
+We had musical entertainments on board, at this place. To see the
+display of beautiful white teeth by these Brazilian sweet singers was
+good to the soul of a sea-tossed mariner. One nymph sang for the
+writer's benefit a song at which they all laughed very much. Being in
+native dialect, I did not understand it, but of course laughed with the
+rest, at which they were convulsed; from this, I supposed it to be at my
+expense. I enjoyed that, too, as much, or more, than I would have
+relished _areytos_ in my favour.
+
+With maté we came to Buenos Aires, where the process of discharging the
+cargo was the same as at Montevideo--into lighters. But at Buenos Aires,
+we lay four times the distance from the shore, about four miles.
+
+The herb, or _herva maté_, is packed into barrels, boxes, and into
+bullock-hide sacks, which are sewed up with stout hide thongs. The
+contents, pressed in tightly when the hide is green and elastic, becomes
+as hard as a cannon-ball by the contraction which follows when it dries.
+The first load of the _soroes_, so-called, that came off to the bark at
+the port of loading, was espied on the way by little Garfield. Piled in
+the boat, high above the gunwales, the hairy side out, they did look
+odd. "Oh, papa," said he, "here comes a load of cows! Stand by, all
+hands, and take them in."
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III
+
+     Salvage of a cargo of wine--Sailors happy--Cholera in the
+     Argentine--Death in the land--Dutch Harry--Pete the Greek--Noted
+     crimps--Boat lost--Sail for Ilha Grande--Expelled from the
+     port--Serious hardships.
+
+
+From Buenos Aires, we proceeded up the River Plate, near the confluence
+of the Parana and Paraguay, to salve a cargo of wine from the stranded
+brig _Neovo San Pascual_, from Marseilles.
+
+The current of the great river at that point runs constantly seaward,
+becoming almost a sea of itself, and a dangerous one to navigate; hence
+the loss of the _San Pascual,_ and many others before her.
+
+If, like the "Ancient Mariner," we had, any of us, cried, "water, water
+all around, and not a drop to drink," we forgot it now, in this
+bountiful stream. Wine, too, we had without stint. The insurance agent,
+to leave no excuse for tampering with the cargo, rolled out a cask of
+the best, and, like a true Hans Breitmann, "knocked out der bung." Then,
+too, cases were broken in the handling, the contents of which drenched
+their clothes from top to toe, as the sailors carried them away on their
+heads.
+
+The diversity of a sailor's life--ah me! The experience of Dana and his
+shipmates, for instance, on a sun-burnt coast, carrying dry hides on
+their heads, if not a worse one, may be in store for us, we cried, now
+fairly swimming in luxuries--water and wine alike free. Although our
+present good luck may be followed by times less cheerful, we preferred
+to count this, we said, as compensation for past misfortunes, marking
+well that "it never rains but it pours."
+
+The cargo of wine in due course was landed at Rosario with but small
+loss, the crew, except in one case, remaining sober enough to help
+navigate even the difficult Parana. But one old sinner, the case I speak
+of, an old Labrador fisherman, became a useless, drunken swab, in spite
+of all we could do. I say "we" for most of the crew were on my side, in
+favour of a fair deal and "regular supplies."
+
+The hold was barred and locked, and every place we could think of, for a
+time, was searched; still Dan kept terribly drunk. At last his mattress
+was turned out, and from it rolled a dozen or more bottles of the best
+liquor. Then there was a row, but all on the part of Dan, who swore blue
+vengeance on the man, if he could but find him out, who had stowed that
+grog in his bunk, "trying to get" him "into trouble"; some of those
+"young fellows would rue it yet!"
+
+The cargo of wine being discharged, I chartered to load alfalfa, packed
+in bales, for Rio. Many deaths had occurred about this time, with
+appalling suddenness; we soon learned that cholera was staring us all in
+the face, and that it was fast spreading through the country, filling
+towns and cities with sickness and death.
+
+Approaching more frightfully near, it carried our pilot over the bar;
+his wife was a widow the day after he brought our bark to the loading
+berth. And the young man who commenced to deliver us the cargo was
+himself measured the day after. His ship had come in!
+
+Many stout men, and many, many women and children succumbed to the
+scourge; yet it was our high privilege to come through the dark cloud
+without losing a loved one, while thousands were cast down with
+bereavements and grief. At one time it appeared that we were in the
+centre of the cloud which zig-zagged its ugly body, serpent-like,
+through districts, poisoning all that it touched, and leaving death in
+its wake. This was indeed cholera in its most terrible form!
+
+One poor fellow sat at the Widow Lacinas' hotel, bewildered.
+"Forty-eight hours ago," said he, "I sat at my own hearth, with wife and
+three children by my side. Now I am alone in the world! Even my poor
+house, such as it was, is pulled down." This man, I say, had troubles;
+surely was his "house pulled down!"
+
+There was no escaping the poison or keeping it off, except by
+disinfectants, and by keeping the system regular, for it soon spread
+over all the land and the air was full of it. Remedies sold so high that
+many must have perished without the test of medicinal aid to cure their
+disease. A cry went up against unprincipled druggists who were
+over-charging for their drugs, but nothing more was done to check their
+greed. Camphor sold as high as four dollars a pound, and the druggist
+with a few hundred drops of laudanum and as much chlorodyne could travel
+through Europe afterward on the profits of his sales.
+
+It was at Rosario, and at this time, that we buried our young friend,
+Captain Speck, well loved of young and old. His friends did not ask
+whether it was cholera or not that he died of, but performed the last
+act of friendship as became men of heart and feeling. The minister could
+not come that day, but Captain Speck's little friend, Garfield, said:
+"The flags were set for the angels to come and take the Captain to
+Heaven!" Need more be said?
+
+And the flags blew out all day.
+
+Then it became us to erect a memorial slab, and, hardest of all, to
+write to the widow and orphans. This was done in a homely way, but with
+sympathetic, aching hearts away off there in Santa Fè.
+
+Our time at Rosario, after this, was spent in gloomy days that dragged
+into weeks and months, and our thoughts often wandered from there to a
+happy past. We preferred to dwell away from there and in other climes,
+if only in thought. There was, however, one happy soul among us--the
+child whose face was a sunbeam in all kinds of weather and at all times,
+happy in his ignorance of the evils that fall to the lot of man.
+
+Our sailing-day from Rosario finally came; and, with a feeling as of
+casting off fetters, the lines were let go, and the bark hauled out into
+the stream, with a full cargo on board; but, instead of sailing for Rio,
+as per charter, she was ordered by the Brazilian consul to Ilha Grande
+(Great Island), the quarantine station of Brazil, some sixty-two miles
+west of Rio, there to be disinfected and to discharge her cargo in
+quarantine.
+
+A new crew was shipped and put aboard, but while I was getting my
+papers, about noon, they stole one of the ship's boats and scurried off
+down the river as fast, no doubt, as they could go. I have not seen them
+or my boat since. They all deserted,--every mother's son of them!
+taking, beside the boat, a month's advance pay from a Mr. Dutch Harry, a
+sailor boarding-master, who had stolen my inward crew that he might, as
+he boasted afterward, "ship new hands in their places." In view of the
+fact that this vilest of crimps was the loser of the money, I could
+almost forgive the "galoots" for the theft of my boat. (The ship is
+usually responsible for advance wages twenty-four hours after she has
+sailed, providing, too, that the sailors proceed to sea in her.) Seeing,
+moreover, that they were of that stripe, unworthy the name of sailor, my
+vessel was the better without them, by at least what it cost to be rid
+of them, namely, the price of my boat.
+
+However, I will take back what I said about Dutch Harry being the
+"vilest crimp." There came one to Rosario worse than he, one "Pete the
+Greek," who cut off the ears of a rival boarding-master at the Boca,
+threw them into the river, then, making his escape to Rosario, some 180
+miles away, established himself in the business in opposition to the
+Dutchman, whom he "shanghaied" soon after, then "reigned peacefully in
+his stead."
+
+A captain who, like myself, had suffered from the depredations of this
+noted gentry, told me, in great glee, that he saw Harry on a bone-laden
+Italian bark outward bound,--"even then nearly out of the river." The
+last seen of him by my friend, the captain, was "among the branches,"
+with a rope around his neck--they hanged him, maybe--I don't know what
+else the rope was for, or who deserved more to be hanged. The captain
+screamed with delight:--"he'll get bone soup, at least, for a while,
+instead of Santa Fè good mutton-chops at our expense."
+
+My second crew was furnished by Mr. Pete, before referred to, and on the
+seventeenth of December we set sail from that country of revolutions.
+Things soon dropped into working order, and I found reason to be pleased
+with the change of crew. We glided smoothly along down the river, thence
+wishing never again to see Rosario under the distressing circumstances
+through which she had just passed.
+
+On the following day, while slipping along before a light, rippling
+breeze, a dog was espied out in the current, struggling in the
+whirlpools, which were rather strong, apparently unable to extricate
+himself, and was greatly exhausted. Coming up with him our main-tops'l
+was laid to the mast, and as we ranged by the poor thing, a sailor,
+plunging over the side in a bow-line, bent a rope on to doggy, another
+one hauled him carefully on board, and the rescue was made. He proved
+to be a fine young retriever, and his intelligent signs of thankfulness
+for his escape from drowning were scarcely less eloquent of gratitude
+than human spoken language.
+
+This pleasant incident happening on a Friday, suggested, of course, the
+name we should give him. His new master, to be sure, was Garfield, who
+at once said, "I guess they won't know me when I get home, with my new
+suit--and a dog!" The two romped the decks thenceforth, early and late.
+It was good to see them romp, while "Friday" "barkit wi' joy."
+
+Our pets were becoming numerous now, and all seemed happy till a
+stowaway cat one day killed poor little "Pete," our canary. For ten
+years or more we had listened to the notes of this wee bird, in many
+countries and climes. Sweetest of sweet singers, it was buried in the
+great Atlantic at last. A strange cat, a careless steward, and its tiny
+life was ended--and the tragedy told. This was indeed a great loss to us
+all, and was mourned over,--almost as the loss of a child.
+
+A book that has been read at sea has a near claim on our friendship, and
+is a thing one is loth to part with, or change, even for a better book.
+But the well-tried friend of many voyages is oh! so hard to part with at
+sea. A resting-place in the solemn sea of sameness--in the trackless
+ocean, marked only by imaginary lines and circles--is a cheerless spot
+to look to; yet how many have treasures there!
+
+Returning to the voyage and journal: Our pilot proved incompetent, and
+we narrowly escaped shipwreck in consequence at Martin Garcia Bar, a bad
+spot in the River Plate. A small schooner captain, observing that we
+needlessly followed in his track, and being anything but a sailor in
+principle, wantonly meditated mischief to us. While I was confidently
+trusting to my pilot, and he (the pilot) trusting to the schooner, one
+that could go over banks where we would strike, what did the scamp do
+but shave close to a dangerous spot, my pilot following faithfully in
+his wake. Then, jumping upon the taffrail of his craft, as we came
+abreast the shoal, he yelled, like a Comanche, to my pilot to: "Port the
+helm!" and what does my mutton-headed jackass do but port hard over! The
+bark, of course, brought up immediately on the ground, as the other had
+planned, seeing which his whole pirate crew--they could have been little
+less than pirates--joined in roars of laughter, but sailed on, doing us
+no other harm.
+
+By our utmost exertions the bark was gotten off, not a moment too soon,
+however, for by the time we kedged her into deep water a _pampeiro_ was
+upon us. She rode out the gale safe at anchor, thanks to an active crew.
+Our water tanks and casks were then refilled, having been emptied to
+lighten the bark from her perilous position.
+
+Next evening the storm went down, and by mutual consent our mud-pilot
+left, taking passage in a passing river-craft, with his pay and our best
+advice, which was to ship in a dredging-machine, where his capabilities
+would be appreciated.
+
+Then, "paddling our own canoe," without further accident we reached the
+light-ship, passing it on Christmas Day. Clearing thence, before night,
+English Bank and all other dangers of the land, we set our course for
+Ilha Grande, the wind being fair. Then a sigh of relief was breathed by
+all on board. If ever "old briny" was welcomed, it was on that Christmas
+Day.
+
+Nothing further of interest occurred on the voyage to Brazil, except the
+death of the little bird already spoken of, which loss deeply affected
+us all.
+
+We arrived at Ilha Grande, our destination, on the 7th day of January,
+1887, and came to anchor in nine fathoms of water, at about noon,
+within musket-range of the guard-ship, and within speaking distance of
+several vessels riding quarantine, with more or less communication going
+on among them all, through flags. Several ships, chafing under the
+restraint of quarantine, were "firing signals" at the guard-ship. One
+Scandinavian, I remember, asked if he might be permitted to communicate
+by _cable_ with his owners in Christiana. The guard gave him, as the
+Irishman said, "an evasive answer," so the cablegram, I suppose, laid
+over. Another wanted police assistance; a third wished to know if he
+could get fresh provisions--ten milreis' ($5) worth (he was a
+German)--naming a dozen or more articles that he wished for, "and _the
+balance in onions_!" Altogether, the young fellows on the guard-ship
+were having, one might say, a signal practice.
+
+On the next day, January 8th, the officers of the port came alongside in
+a steam-launch, and ordered us to leave, saying the port had been closed
+that morning. "But we have made the voyage," I said. "No matter," said
+the guard, "leave at once you must, or the guard-ship will fire into
+you." This, I submit, was harsh and arbitrary treatment. A thunderbolt
+from a clear sky could not have surprised us more or worked us much
+greater harm--to be ruined in business or struck by lightning, being
+equally bad!
+
+Then pointing something like a gun, Dom Pedro said, said he, "_Vaya
+Homem_" (hence, begone), "Or you'll give us cholera." So back we had to
+go, all the way to Rosario, with that load of hay--and trouble. But on
+our arrival there we found things better than they were when we sailed.
+The cholera had ceased--it was on the wane when we sailed from Rosario,
+and there was hardly a case of the dread disease in the whole country
+east of Cordova when we returned. That was, indeed, a comfort, but it
+left our hardship the same, and led, consequently, to the total loss of
+the vessel after dragging us through harrowing trials and losses, as
+will be seen by subsequent events.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV
+
+     Ilha Grande decree--Return to Rosario--Waiting opening of the
+     Brazilian ports--Scarcity of sailors--Buccaneers turned
+     pilots--Sail down the river--Arrive at Ilha Grande the second
+     time--Quarantined and fumigated--Admitted to _pratique_--Sail for
+     Rio--Again challenged--Rio at last.
+
+
+This Ilha Grande decree, really a political movement, brought great
+hardships on us, notwithstanding that it was merely intended by the
+Brazilians as retaliation for past offences by their Argentine
+neighbours; not only for quarantines against Rio fevers, but for a
+discriminating duty as well on sugar from the empire; a combination of
+hardships on commerce--more than the sensitive Brazilians could
+stand--so chafing them that a retaliation fever sprung up reaching more
+than the heat of _febre marello_, and they decided to teach their
+republican cousins a wholesome lesson. However, their wish was to
+retaliate without causing war, and it was done. In fact, closing ports
+as they did at the beginning of Argentine's most valuable season of
+exports to Brazil, and with the plausible excuse, namely fear of pain in
+the stomach, so filled the Argentines with admiration of their equals in
+strategy that they on the earliest opportunity proclaimed two public
+holidays in honour of bright Brazil. So the matter of difference ended,
+to the delight of all--in fire-crackers and champagne!
+
+To the delight of all except the owner and crew of the _Aquidneck_. For
+our bark there was no way but to return where the cargo came from, at a
+ruinous loss, too, of time and money. We called at the first open port
+and wired to the owner of the cargo, but got no answer. Thence we sailed
+to Buenos Aires, where I telegraphed again for instructions. The
+officers of the guard-ship, upon receiving my report from Brazil, were
+convulsed with laughter, while I----I confess it--could not see the
+joke. After waiting two days, this diplomatic reply came from the owner
+of the cargo: "Act as the case may require." Upon this matter I had
+several opinions. One person suggested that the case required me to
+pitch the whole cargo into the sea! This friend, I may mention, was from
+Boston.
+
+I have ever since regretted, however, that I did not take his advice.
+There seemed to be no protection for the vessel; the law that a ship
+must be allowed to live was unheeded; in fact this law was reversed and
+there were sharpers and beach-combers at every turn ready to take
+advantage of one's misfortunes or even drive one to despair. I
+concluded, finally, to shake the lot of them, and proceeding up the
+Parana, moored again at the berth where, a few weeks before, we had
+taken in the cargo. Spans and tackle were rigged, and all was made ready
+to discharge. It was now, "Come on, McCarthy, or McCarthy, come on!" I
+didn't care which, I had one _right_ on my side, and I kept that always
+in view; namely, the right to discharge the cargo where I had first
+received it; but where the money to buy ballast and pay other charges
+was to come from I could not discover.
+
+My merchant met me in great concern at my "misfortunes," but "carramba!"
+(zounds) said he, "my own losses are great." It required very little
+reasoning to show me that the least expensive course was the safest one
+for me to adopt, and my merchant offering enough to pay the marketing, I
+found it wisest not to disturb the cargo, but to lay up instead with it
+in the vessel and await the reopening of the Brazilian ports. This I
+did.
+
+My merchant, Don Manuel, is said to be worth millions of _pesos_. The
+foundation of his wealth was laid by peddling charcoal, carrying it at
+first, to his credit be it said, on his back, and he was then a good
+fellow. Many a hard bargain has he waged since, and is now a "Don,"
+living in a $90,000 house. The Don doesn't peddle charcoal any more.
+
+Moored at Rosario, waiting, waiting; but all of us well in body, and
+myself finally less agitated in mind. My old friend, Don Manuel, seems
+better also; he "may yet purge and live clean like a gentleman."
+
+I found upon our return to Rosario that some of the old hands were
+missing; laid low by the scourge, to make room for others, and some were
+spared who would have been less lamented. Among all the ship-brokers
+that I knew at Rosario, and I knew a great many, not one was taken away.
+They all escaped, being, it was thought, epidemic-proof. There was my
+broker, Don Christo Christiano--called by Don Manuel "El Sweaga" (the
+Swede)--whom nothing could strike with penetrative force, except a
+commission.
+
+At last, April 9th, 1887, news came that the Brazilian ports were open.
+Cholera had long since disappeared in Santa Fè and Buenos Aires. The
+Brazilians had established their own beef-drying factories, and could
+now afford to open their ports to competition. This made a great stir
+among the ships. Crews were picked up here and there, out of the few
+brothels that had not been pulled down during the cholera, and out of
+the streets or from the fields. Some, too, came in from the bush. Mixed
+among them were many that had been let out of the prisons all over the
+country, so that the scourge should not be increased by over-crowded
+jails. Of six who shipped with me, four had been so released from
+prison, where they had been serving for murder or highway robbery; all
+this I learned when it was too late. I shall have occasion before long
+to speak of these again!
+
+Well, we unmoored and dropped down the river a few miles the first day;
+with this crew, the hardest looking set that ever put foot on a ship of
+mine, and with a swarthy Greek pilot that would be taken for a pirate in
+any part of the world. The second mate, who shipped also at Rosario, was
+not less ill-visaged, and had, in addition to his natural ugly features,
+a deep scar across his face, suggestive of a heavy sabre stroke; a mark
+which, I thought upon further acquaintance, he had probably merited. I
+could not make myself easy upon the first acquaintance of my new and
+decidedly ill-featured crew. So, early the first evening I brought the
+bark to anchor, and made all snug before dark for prudent reasons. Next
+morning, the Greek, instead of getting the bark underweigh, as I
+expected him to do, came to me demanding more pay for his services and
+thinking, maybe, that I could not do without him, demanded, unless I
+chose to pay considerably in excess of his regular dues, to be put on
+shore. I took the fellow at his first bounce. He and his grip-sack were
+landed on the bank there and then, with but little "palaver" over it. It
+was then said, so I learned after, that "old S----" would drop into the
+wake of some ship, and save his pilotage; in fact, they didn't know
+"what else he could do," as the pilots were then all engaged for other
+vessels.
+
+The money was taken care of all right, and so was the _Aquidneck_! By
+daylight of the following morning she was underweigh, and under full
+sail at the head of a fleet of piloted vessels, and, being the swiftest
+sailer, easily kept the lead, and was one of the vessels that did _not
+"rompe el banco_," as was predicted by all the pilots, while they
+hunched their shoulders above their ears, exclaiming, "No _practico_, no
+_possebla_!" This was my second trip down the Parana, it is true, and I
+had been on other rivers as wonderful as this one, and had, moreover,
+read Mark Twain's "Life on the Mississippi," which gives no end of
+information on river currents, wind-reefs, sand-reefs, alligator-water,
+and all that is useful to know about rivers, so that I was confident of
+my ability; all that had been required was the stirring-up that I got
+from the impertinent pilot, or buccaneer, whichever is proper to call
+him--one thing certain, he was no true sailor!
+
+A strong, fair wind on the river, together with the current, in our
+favour, carried us flying down the channel, while we kept the lead, with
+the Stars and Stripes waving where they ought always to be seen; namely,
+on the ship in the van! So the duffers followed us, instead of our
+following them, and on we came, all clear, with the good wishes of the
+officers and the crews. But the pilots, drawing their shoulders up and
+repeating the refrain, "No _practico_, no _possebla_!" cursed us
+bitterly, and were in a vile mood, I was told, cursing more than usual,
+and that is saying a great deal, for all will agree who have heard them
+that the average "Dago" pilot is the most foul-mouthed thing afloat.
+
+Down the river and past the light-ship we came once more, this time with
+no halt to make, no backing sails to let a pilot off, nothing at all to
+stop us; we spread all sail to a favourable breeze, and reached Ilha
+Grande eight days afterward, beating the whole fleet by two days.
+Garfield kept strict account of this. He was on deck when we made the
+land, a dark and foggy night it was! nothing could be seen but the
+dimmest outline of a headland through the haze. I knew the place, I
+thought, and Garfield said he could smell land, fog or coal-tar. This,
+it will be admitted, was reassuring. A school of merry porpoises that
+gambolled under the bows while we stood confidently in for the land,
+diving and crossing the bark's course in every direction, also guarded
+her from danger. I knew that so long as deep-sea porpoises kept with us
+we had nothing to fear of the ground. When the lookout cried, "Porpoises
+gone," we turned the bark's head off-shore, backed the main-tops'l, and
+sent out the "pigeon" (lead). A few grains of sand and one soft,
+delicate white shell were brought up out of fourteen fathoms of water.
+We had but to heed these warnings and guides, and our course would be
+tolerably clear, dense and all as the fog and darkness was.
+
+The lead was kept constantly going as we sailed along in the intense
+darkness, till the headland of our port was visible through the haze of
+grey morning. What Garfield had smelled, I may mention, turned out to be
+coal-tar, a pot of which had been capsized on deck by the leadsman, in
+the night.
+
+By daylight in the morning, April 29, we had found the inner entrance to
+Ilha Grande, and sailed into the harbour for the second time with this
+cargo of hay. It was still very foggy, and all day heavy gusts of wind
+came down through the gulches in the mountains, laden with fog and rain.
+
+Two days later, the weather cleared up, and our friends began to come
+in. They found us there all right, anchored close under the highest
+mountain.
+
+Eight days of sullen gloom and rain at this place; then brimstone,
+smoke, and fire turned on to us, and we were counted healthy enough to
+be admitted to _pratique_ in Rio, where we arrived May 11th, putting one
+more day between ourselves and our friendly competitors, who finally
+arrived safe, all except one, the British bark _Dublin_. She was
+destroyed by fire between the two ports. The crew was rescued by
+Captain Lunt, and brought safe into Rio next day.
+
+At the fort entrance to the harbour of Rio we were again challenged and
+brought to, all standing, on the bar; the tide running like a mill race
+at the time brought the bark aback on her cables with a force, nearly
+cutting her down.
+
+The _Aquidneck_ it would seem had outsailed the telegram which should
+have preceded her; it was, nevertheless, my imperative duty to obey the
+orders of the port authorities which, however, should have been tempered
+with reason. It was easy for them in the fort to say, "Come to, or we'll
+sink you," but we in the bark, between two evils, came near being sunk
+by obeying the order.
+
+Formerly, when a vessel was challenged at this fort, one, two or three
+shots, if necessary to bring her to, were fired, at a cost to the ship,
+if she were not American, of fifteen shillings for the first shot,
+thirty for the second, and sixty for the third; but, for American ships,
+the sixty shilling shot was fired first--Americans would always have the
+best!
+
+After all the difficulties were cleared away, the tardy telegram
+received, and being again identified by the officers, we weighed anchor
+for the last time on this voyage, and went into our destined port, the
+spacious and charming harbour of Rio.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V
+
+     At Rio--Sail for Antonina with mixed cargo--A _pampeiro_--Ship on
+     beam-ends--Cargo still more mixed--Topgallant-masts carried
+     away--Arrive safely at Antonina.
+
+
+The cargo was at last delivered, and no one made ill over it. A change
+of rats also was made; at Rio those we brought in gave place to others
+from the Dom Pedro Docks where we moored. Fleas, too, skipped about in
+the hay as happy as larks, and nearly as big; and all the other live
+stock that we brought from Rosario, goodness knows of what kind and
+kith, arrived well and sound from over the water, notwithstanding the
+fumigations and fuss made at the quarantine.
+
+Had the little microbes been with us indeed, the Brazilians would not
+have turned us away as they did, from the doors of an hospital! for they
+are neither a cruel nor cowardly people. To turn sickness away would be
+cruel and stupid, to say the least! What we were expelled for I have
+already explained.
+
+After being so long in gloomy circumstances we felt like making the most
+of pleasant Rio! Therefore on the first fine day after being docked, we
+sallied out in quest of city adventure, and brought up first in
+Ouvidor--the Broadway of Rio, where my wife bought a tall hat, which I
+saw nights looming up like a dreadful stack of hay, the innocent cause
+of much trouble to me, and I declared, by all the great islands--in my
+dreams--that go back with it I would not, but would pitch it, first,
+into the sea.
+
+I get nervous on the question of quarantines. I visit the famous
+Botanical Gardens with my family, and I tremble with fear lest we are
+fumigated at some station on the way. However, our time at Rio is
+pleasantly spent in the main, and on the first day of June, we set sail
+once more for Paranagua and Antonina of pleasant recollections; partly
+laden with flour, kerosene, pitch, tar, rosin and wine, three pianos, I
+remember, and one steam engine and boiler, all as ballast; "freight
+free," so the bill of lading read, and further, that the ship should
+"not be responsible for leakage, breakage, or rust." This clause was
+well for the ship, as one of those wild _pampeiros_ overtook her, on the
+voyage, throwing her violently on her beam-ends, and shaking the motley
+cargo into a confused and mixed-up mess. The vessel remaining tight,
+however, no very serious damage was done, and she righted herself after
+a while, but without her lofty topgallant-masts, which went with a crash
+at the first blast of the tempest.
+
+This incident made a profound impression on Garfield. He happened to be
+on deck when the masts were carried away, but managed to scamper off
+without getting hurt. Whenever a vessel hove in sight after that having
+a broken spar or a torn sail, it was "a _pampeiroed_ ship."
+
+The storm, though short, was excessively severe, and swept over
+Paranagua and Antonina with unusual violence. The owner of the pianos, I
+was told, prayed for us, and regretted that his goods were not insured.
+But when they were landed, not much the worse for their tossing about,
+old Strichine, the owner (that was his name or near that, strychnine the
+boys called him, because his singing was worse than "rough on rats,"
+they said, a bit of juvenile wit that the artist very sensibly let pass
+unheeded), declared that the ship was a good one, and that her captain
+was a good pilot; and as neither freight nor insurance had been paid, he
+and his wife would feast us on music; having learned that I especially
+was fond of it. They had screeched operas for a lifetime in Italy, but I
+didn't care for that. As arranged, therefore, I was on deck at the
+appointed time and place, to stay at all hazards.
+
+The pianos, as I had fully expected, were fearfully out of
+tune--suffering, I should say, from the effects of seasickness!
+
+So much so that I shall always believe this opportunity was seized upon
+by the artist to avenge the damage to his instruments, which, indeed, I
+could not avert, in the storm that we passed through. The good Strichine
+and his charming wife were astonished at the number of opera airs I
+could name. And they tried to persuade me to sing Il Trovatore; but
+concluding that damage enough had already been done, I refrained, that
+is, I refracted my song.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI
+
+     Mutiny--Attempt at robbery and murder--Four against one--Two go
+     down before a rifle--Order restored.
+
+
+July 23rd, 1887, brings me to a sudden and shocking point in the history
+of the voyage that I fain would forget, but that will not be possible.
+Between the hours of 11 and 12 p.m. of this day I was called instantly
+to defend my life and all that is dear to a man.
+
+The bark, anchored alone in the harbour of Antonina, was hid from the
+town in the darkness of a night that might well have covered the
+blackest of tragedies. My pirates thought their opportunity had surely
+come to capture the _Aquidneck_, and this they undertook to do. The
+ringleader of the gang was a burly scoundrel, whose boast was that he
+had "licked" both the mate and second mate of the last vessel he had
+sailed in, and had "busted the captain in the jaw" when they landed in
+Rio, where the vessel was bound, and where, of course, the captain had
+discharged him. It was there the villain shipped with me, in lieu of one
+of the Rosario gang who had been kindly taken in charge by the guard at
+Ilha Grande and brought to Rio to be tried before the American Consul
+for insubordination. Said he, one day when I urged him to make haste and
+help save the topsails in a squall, "Oh, I'm no soft-horn to be
+hurried!" It was the time the bark lost her topgallant-mast and was cast
+on her beam-ends on the voyage to Antonina, already told; it was, in
+fact, no time for loafing, and this braggart at a decisive word hurried
+aloft with the rest to do his duty. What I said to him was meant for
+earnest, and it cowed him. It is only natural to think that he held a
+grudge against me forever after, and waited only for his opportunity;
+knowing, too, that I was the owner of the bark, and supposed to have
+money. He was heard to say in a rum-mill a day or two before the attack
+that he would find the ---- money and his life, too. His chum and bosom
+friend had come pretty straight from Palermo penitentiary at Buenos
+Aires when he shipped with me at Rosario.
+
+It was no secret on board the bark that he had served two years for
+robbing, and cutting a ranchman's throat from ear to ear. These records,
+which each seemed to glory in, were verified in both cases.
+
+I met the captain afterwards who had been "busted in the jaw"--Captain
+Roberts, of Baltimore, a quiet gentleman, with no evil in his heart for
+any one, and a man, like myself, well along in years.
+
+Two of the gang, old Rosario hands, had served for the lesser offence of
+robbery alone--they brought up in the rear! The other two of my foremast
+hands--one a very respectable Hollander, the other a little Japanese
+sailor, a bright, young chap--had been robbed and beaten by the four
+ruffians, and then threatened so that they deserted to the forest
+instead of bringing a complaint of the matter to me, for fear, as the
+Jap expressed it afterwards, when there was no longer any danger,--for
+fear the "la-la-long mans (thieves) would makee killo mi!"
+
+The ringleader bully had made unusual efforts to create a row when I
+came on board early in the evening; however, as he had evidently been
+drinking, I passed it off as best I could for the natural consequence of
+rum, and ordered him forward; instead of doing as he was bid, when I
+turned to hand my wife to the cabin he followed me threateningly to the
+break of the poop. What struck me most, however, was the conduct of his
+chum, who was sober, but in a very unusual, high, gleeful mood. It was
+knock-off time when I came along to where he was seizing off the mizzen
+topgallant backstay, the last of the work of refitting the late
+_pampeiro_ damage; and the mate being elsewhere engaged, I gave the
+usual order to quit work. "Knock off," I said to the man, "and put away
+your tools. The bark's rigging looks well," I added, "and if to-morrow
+turns out fine, all will be finished"; whereupon the fellow laughed
+impertinently in my face, repeating my words, "All will be finished!"
+under his breath, adding, "before to-morrow!" This was the first insult
+offered by the "Bloodthirsty Tommy," who had committed murder only a
+short time before; but I had been watched by the fellow, with a cat-like
+eye at every turn.
+
+The full significance of his words on this occasion came up to me only
+next morning, when I saw him lying on the deck with a murderous weapon
+in his hand! I was not expecting a cowardly, night attack, nevertheless
+I kept my gun loaded. I went to sleep this night as usual, forgetting
+the unpleasant episode as soon as my head touched the pillow; but my
+wife, with finer instincts, kept awake. It was well for us all that she
+did so. Near midnight, my wife, who had heard the first footstep on the
+poop-deck, quietly wakened me, saying, "We must get up, and look out for
+ourselves! Something is going wrong on deck; the boat tackle has been
+let go with a great deal of noise, and--O! don't go that way on deck. I
+heard some one on the cabin steps, and heard whispering in the forward
+entry."
+
+"You must have been dreaming," I said.
+
+"No, indeed!" said she; "I have not been asleep yet; don't go on deck by
+the forward companionway; they are waiting there, I am sure, for I heard
+the creaking of the loose step in the entry."
+
+If my wife has not been dreaming, thought I, there can be no possible
+doubt of a plot.
+
+Nothing justifies a visit on the poop-deck after working-hours, except a
+call to relieve sickness, or for some other emergency, and then secrecy
+or stealth is non-permissible.
+
+It may be here explained to persons not familiar with ships, that the
+sailors' quarters are in the forward part of the ship where they (the
+sailors) are supposed to be found after working-hours, in port, coming
+never abaft the mainmast; hence the term "before the mast."
+
+My first impulse was to step on deck in the usual way, but the earnest
+entreaties of my wife awoke me to a danger that should be investigated
+with caution. Arming myself, therefore, with a stout carbine repeater,
+with eight ball cartridges in the magazine, I stepped on deck abaft
+instead of forward, where evidently I had been expected. I stood rubbing
+my eyes for a moment, inuring them to the intense darkness, when a
+coarse voice roared down the forward companionway to me to come on deck.
+"Why don't ye come on deck like a man, and order yer men forid?" was the
+salute that I got, and was the first that I heard with my own ears, and
+it was enough. To tell the whole story in a word, I knew that I had to
+face a mutiny.
+
+I could do no less than say: "Go forward there!"
+
+"Yer there, are ye?" said the spokesman, as with an oath, he bounded
+toward me, cursing as he came.
+
+Again I ordered him forward, saying, "I am armed,--if you come here I
+will shoot!" But I forbore to do so instantly, thinking to club him to
+the deck instead, for my carbine was a heavy one. I dealt him a blow as
+he came near, sufficient I thought, to fell an ox; but it had,
+apparently, no effect, and instantly he was inside of my guard. Then
+grasping me by the throat, he tried to force me over the taffrail, and
+cried, exultingly, as he felt me give way under his brute strength,
+"Now, you damn fool, shoot!" at the same time drawing his knife to
+strike.
+
+I could not speak, or even breathe, but my carbine spoke for me, and the
+ruffian fell with the knife in his hand which had been raised against
+me! Resolution had proved more than a match for brute force, for I then
+knew that not only my own life but also the lives of others depended on
+me at this moment. Nothing daunted, the rest came on, like hungry
+wolves. Again I cried, "Go forward!" But thinking, maybe, that my rifle
+was a single shooter, or that I could not load it so quickly, the order
+was disregarded.
+
+"What if I don't go forward?" was "Bloody Tommy's" threatening question,
+adding, as he sprang toward me, "I've got this for you!" but fell
+instantly as he raised his hand; and there on the deck was ended his
+misadventure! and like the other he fell with the deadly knife in his
+hand. I was now all right. The dread of cold steel had left me when I
+freed myself from the first would-be assassin, and I only wondered how
+many more would persist in trying to take my life. But recollecting
+there were only two mutineers left, and that I had still six shots in
+the magazine of my rifle, and one already in the chamber, I stood ready
+with the hammer raised, and my finger on the trigger, confident that I
+would not be put down.
+
+There was no further need of extreme measures, however, for order was
+now restored, though two of the assailants had skulked away in the dark.
+
+How it was that I regained my advantage, after once losing it, I hardly
+know; but this I am certain of, that being down I was not to be spared.
+Then desperation took the place of fear, and I felt more than a match
+for all that could come against me. I had no other than serene
+feelings, however, and had no wish to pursue the two pirates that fled.
+
+Immediately after the second shot was fired, and I found myself once
+more master of my bark, the remaining two came aft again, at my bidding
+this time, and in an orderly manner, it may be believed.
+
+It is idle to say what I would or would not have given to have the
+calamity averted, or, in other words, to have had a crew of sailors,
+instead of a gang of cut-throats.
+
+However, when the climax came, I had but one course to pursue; this I
+resolutely followed. A man will defend himself and his family to the
+last, for life is sweet, after all.
+
+It was significant, the court thought afterwards, that while my son had
+not had time to dress, they all had on their boots except the one who
+fell last, and he was in his socks, with no boots on. It was he who had
+waited for me as I have already said, on the cabin steps that I usually
+passed up and down on, but this time avoided. Circumstantial evidence
+came up in abundance to make the case perfectly clear to the
+authorities. There are few who will care to hear more about a subject so
+abhorrent to all, and I care less to write about it. I would not have
+said this much, but for the enterprise of a rising department clerk,
+who, seeing the importance of telling to the world what he knew, and
+seeing also some small emolument in the matter, was I believe prompted
+to augment the consular dispatches, thus obliging me to fight the battle
+over. However, not to be severe on the poor clerk, I will only add that,
+no indignities were offered me by the authorities through all the strict
+investigation that followed the tragedy.
+
+The trial being for justice and not for my money the case was soon
+finished.
+
+I sincerely hope that I may never again encounter such as those who came
+from the jails to bring harm and sorrow in their wake.
+
+The work of loading was finished soon after the calamity to my bark, and
+a Spanish sailing-master was engaged to take her to Montevideo; my son
+Victor going as flag captain.
+
+I piloted the _Aquidneck_ out of the harbour, and left her clear of the
+buoy, looking as neat and trim as sailor could wish to see. All the
+damage done by the late _pampeiro_ had been repaired, new
+topgallant-masts rigged, and all made ataunto. I saw my handsome bark
+well clear of the dangers of the harbour limits, then in sorrow I left
+her and paddled back to the town, for I was on parole to appear, as I
+have said, for trial! That was the word; I can find no other name for
+it--let it stand!
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII
+
+     Join the bark at Montevideo--A good crew--Small-pox breaks
+     out--Bear up for Maldonado and Flores--No aid--Death of sailors--To
+     Montevideo in distress--Quarantine.
+
+
+As soon as the case was over I posted on for Montevideo by steamer,
+where the bark had arrived only a few days ahead of me. I found her
+already stripped to a gantline though, preparatory to a long stay in
+port. I had given Victor strict orders to interfere in no way with the
+Spaniard, but to let him have full charge in nearly everything. I could
+have trusted the lad with full command, young as he was; but there was a
+strange crew of foreigners which might, as often happens, require
+maturer judgment to manage than to sail the vessel. As it proved,
+however, even the _cook_ was in many ways a better man than the
+sailing-master.
+
+Victor met me with a long face, and the sailors wore a quizzical look as
+I came over the vessel's side. One of them, in particular, whom I shall
+always remember, gave me a good-humoured greeting, along with his shake
+of the head, that told volumes; and next day was aloft, crossing yards,
+cheerfully enough. I found my Brazilian crew to be excellent sailors,
+and things on board the _Aquidneck_ immediately began to assume a
+brighter appearance, aloft and alow.
+
+Cargo was soon discharged, other cargo taken in, and the bark made ready
+for sea. My crew, I say, was a good one; but, poor fellows, they were
+doomed to trials--the worst within human experience, many of them giving
+up to grim death before the voyage was ended. Too often one bit of bad
+luck follows another. This rule brought us in contact with one of these
+small officials at Montevideo, better adapted to home life; one of those
+knowing, perhaps, more than need a cowboy, but not enough for consul.
+This official, managing to get word to my crew that a change of master
+dissolved their contract, induced them to come on shore and claim pay
+for the whole voyage and passage home on a steamer besides, the same as
+though the bark had been sold.
+
+What overwhelming troubles may come of having incompetent officials in
+places of trust, the sequel will show. This unwise, even stupid
+interference, was the indirect cause of the sufferings and deaths among
+the crew which followed.
+
+I was able to show the consul and his clerk that sailors are always
+engaged for the ship, and never for the master, and that a change of
+master did not in any way affect their contract. However, I paid the
+crew off, and then left it to their option to re-ship or not, for they
+were all right, they had been led to do what they did, and I knew that
+they wanted to get home, and it was there that the bark was going,
+direct.
+
+All signed the articles again, except one, a long-haired Andalusian,
+whom I would not have longer at any price. The wages remained the same
+as before, and all hands returned to their duty cheerful and
+contented--but pending the consul's decision (which, by the way, I
+decided for him), they had slept in a contagioned house, where, alas,
+they contracted small-pox of the worst type.
+
+We were now homeward bound. All the "runaway rum" that could be held out
+by the most subtle crimps of Montevideo could not induce these sober
+Brazilian sailors to desert their ship.
+
+These "crimps" are land-sharks who get the sailors drunk when they can,
+and then rob them of their advance money. The sailors are all paid in
+advance; sometimes they receive in this way most of their wages for the
+voyage, which they make after the money is spent, or wasted, or stolen.
+
+We all know what working for dead horse means--sailors know too well its
+significance.
+
+As sailing day drew near, a half-day liberty to each watch was asked for
+by the men, who wanted to make purchases for their friends and relatives
+at Paranagua. Permission to go on shore was readily granted, and I was
+rewarded by seeing every one return to his ship at the time promised,
+and every one sober. On the morrow, which was sailing day, every man was
+at his post and all sang "Cheerily, ho!" and were happy; all except one,
+who complained of slight chills and a fever, but said that he had been
+subject to this, and that with a dose of quinine he would soon be all
+right again.
+
+It appeared a small matter. Two days later though, his chills turned to
+something which I knew less about. The next day, three more men went
+down with rigor in the spine, and at the base of the brain. I knew by
+this that small-pox was among us!
+
+We bore up at once for Maldonado, which was the nearest port, the place
+spoken of in "Gulliver's Travels," though Gulliver, I think, is mistaken
+as to its identity and location, arriving there before a gathering storm
+that blew wet and cold from the east. Our signals of distress, asking
+for immediate medical aid were set and flew thirty-six hours before any
+one came to us; then a scared Yahoo (the country was still inhabited by
+Yahoos) in a boat rowed by two other animals, came aboard, and said,
+"Yes, your men have got small-pox." "_Vechega_" he called it, but I
+understand the lingo of the Yahoo very well, I could even speak a few
+words of it and comprehend the meanings. "_Vechega_!" he bellowed to
+his mates alongside, and, turning to me, he said, in Yahoo: "You must
+leave the port at once," then jumping into his boat he hurried away,
+along with his scared companions.[2]
+
+To leave a port in our condition was hard lines, but my perishing crew
+could get no succour at Maldonado, so we could do nothing but leave, if
+at all able to do so. We were indeed short-handed, but desperation
+lending a hand, the anchor was weighed and sufficient sail set on the
+bark to clear the inhospitable port. The wind blowing fair out of the
+harbour carried us away from the port toward Flores Island, for which we
+now headed in sore distress. A gale, long to be remembered, sprang
+suddenly up, stripping off our sails like autumn leaves, before the bark
+was three leagues from the place. We hadn't strength to clew up, so her
+sails were blown away, and she went flying before the mad tempest under
+bare poles. A snow-white sea-bird came for shelter from the storm, and
+poised on the deck to rest. The incident filled my sailors with awe; to
+them it was a portentous omen, and in distress they dragged themselves
+together and, prostrate before the bird, prayed the Holy Virgin to ask
+God to keep them from harm. The rain beat on us in torrents, as the bark
+tossed and reeled ahead, and day turned black as night. The gale was
+from E.S.E., and our course lay W.N.W. nearly, or nearly before it. I
+stood at the wheel with my shore clothes on, I remember, for I hadn't
+yet had time to change them for waterproofs; this of itself was small
+matter, but it reminds me now that I was busy with other concerns. I was
+always a good helmsman, and I took in hand now the steering of the bark
+in the storm--and I gave directions to Victor and the carpenter how to
+mix disinfectants for themselves, and medicines for the sick men. The
+medicine chest was fairly supplied.
+
+Flores, when seen, was but a few ship's lengths away. Flashes of
+lightning revealed the low cliffs, amazingly near to us, and as the bark
+swept by with great speed, the roar of the breakers on the shore, heard
+above the din of the storm, told us of a danger to beware. The helm was
+then put down, and she came to under the lee of the island like a true,
+obedient thing.
+
+Both anchors were let go, and all the chain paid out to both, to the
+bitter end, for the gale was now a hurricane. She walked away with her
+anchors for all that we could do, till, hooking a marine cable, one was
+carried away, and the other brought her head to the wind, and held her
+there trembling in the storm.
+
+Anxious fear lest the second cable should break was on our minds through
+the night; but a greater danger was within the ship, that filled us all
+with alarm.
+
+Two barks not far from us that night, with pilots on board, were lost,
+in trying to come through where the _Aquidneck_, without a pilot and
+with but three hands on deck to work her, came in. Their crews, with
+great difficulty, were rescued and then carried to Montevideo. When all
+had been done that we three could do, a light was put in the rigging,
+that flickered in the gale and went out. Then wet, and lame, and weary,
+we fell down in our drenched clothes, to rest as we might--to sleep, or
+to listen to groans of our dying shipmates.
+
+When daylight came (after this, the most dismal of all my nights at
+sea), our signals went up telling of the sad condition of the crew, and
+begging for medical assistance. Toward night the gale went down; but, as
+no boat came off, a gloom darker than midnight settled over the crew of
+the pest-ridden bark, and in dismay they again prayed to be spared to
+meet the loved ones awaiting them at home.
+
+Our repeated signals, next day, brought the reply, "Stand in."
+_Carramba!_ Why, we could hardly stand at all; much less could we get
+the bark underway, and beat in against wind and current. No one knew
+this better than they on the island, for my signals had told the whole
+story, and as we were only a mile and a half from the shore, the flags
+were distinctly made out. There was no doubt in our minds about that!
+
+Late in the day, however, a barge came out to us, ill-manned and
+ill-managed by as scared a set of "galoots" as ever capsized a boat, or
+trembled at a shadow! The coxswain had more to say than the doctor, and
+the Yahoo--I forgot to mention that we were still in Yahoodom, but one
+would see that without this explanation--the Yahoo in the bow said more
+than both; and they all took a stiff pull from a bottle of
+_cachazza_,[3] the doctor having had the start, I should say, of at
+least one or two pulls before leaving the shore, insomuch as he appeared
+braver than the rest of the crew.
+
+The doctor, having taken an extra horn or two, with Dutch courage came
+on board, and brought with him a pound of sulphur, a pint of carbolic
+acid, and some barley--enough to feed a robin a few times, for all of
+which we were thankful indeed, our disinfectants being by this time
+nearly exhausted; then, glancing at the prostrate men, he hurried away,
+as the other had done at Maldonado. I asked what I should do with the
+dead through the night--bury them where we lay? "Oh, no, no!" cried the
+Yahoo in the bow; but the doctor pointed significantly to the water
+alongside! I knew what he meant!
+
+That night we buried José, the sailor whose honest smile had welcomed me
+to my bark at Montevideo. I had ordered stones brought on deck, before
+dark, ostensibly to ballast the boat. I knew they would soon be wanted!
+About midnight, the cook called me in sore distress, saying that José
+was dying without confession!
+
+So poor José was buried that night in the great River Plate! I listened
+to the solemn splash that told of one life ended, and its work done; but
+gloomy, and sad, and melancholy as the case was, I had to smile when the
+cook, not having well-secured the ballast, threw it over after his
+friend, exclaiming, "Good-bye, José, good-bye!" I added, "Good-bye, good
+shipmate, good-bye! I doubt not that you rest well!"
+
+Next day, the signal from the shore was the same as the day before,
+"Stand in," in answer to my repeated call for help. By this time my men
+were demoralized and panic-stricken, and the poor fellows begged me, if
+the doctor would not try to cure them, to get a priest to confess them
+all. I saw a padre pacing the beach, and set flags asking him to come on
+board. No notice was taken of the signal, and we were now left entirely
+to ourselves.
+
+After burying one more of the crew, we decided to remain no longer at
+this terrible place. An English telegraph tender passing, outward-bound,
+caught up our signals at that point, and kindly reported to her consul
+at Maldonado, who wired it to Montevideo.
+
+The wind blowing away from the shore, as may it always blow when friend
+of mine nears that coast, we determined to weigh anchor or slip cable
+without further loss of time, feeling assured that by the telegraph
+reports some one would be on the look-out for us, and that the
+_Aquidneck_ would be towed into port if the worst should happen--if the
+rest of her crew went down. Three of us weighed one anchor, with its
+ninety fathoms of chain, the other had parted on the windlass in the
+gale. The bark's prow was now turned toward Montevideo, the place we had
+so recently sailed from, full of hope and pleasant anticipation; and
+here we were, dejected and filled with misery, some of our number
+already gone on that voyage which somehow seems so far away.
+
+At Montevideo, things were better. They _did_ take my remaining sick men
+out of the vessel, after two days' delay; my agent procuring a tug,
+which towed them in the ship's boat three hundred fathoms astern. In
+this way they were taken to Flores Island, where, days and days before,
+they had been refused admittance! They were accompanied this time by an
+order from the governor of Montevideo, and at last were taken in. Two of
+the cases were, by this time, in the favourable change. But the poor old
+cook, who stood faithfully by me, and would not desert his old
+shipmates, going with them to the Island to care for them to the last,
+took the dread disease, died of it, and was there buried, not far from
+where he himself had buried his friend José, a short time before. The
+death of this faithful man occurred on the day that the bark finally
+sailed seaward, by the Island. She was in sight from the hospital
+window when his phantom ship, that put out, carried him over the bar!
+His widow, at Paranagua, I was told, on learning the fate of her
+husband, died of grief.
+
+The work of disinfecting the vessel, at Montevideo, after the sick were
+removed, was a source of speculation that was most elaborately carried
+on. Demijohns of carbolic acid were put on board, by the dozen, at $3.00
+per demijohn, all diluted ready for use; and a _guardo_ was put on board
+to use it up, which he did religiously over his own precious self, in my
+after-cabin, as far from the end of the ship where the danger was as he
+could get. Some one else disinfected _el proa_, not he! Abundant as the
+stuff was, I had to look sharp for enough to wash out forward while aft
+it was knee-deep almost, at three dollars a jar! The harpy that alighted
+on deck at Maldonado sent in his bill for one hundred dollars--I paid
+eighty.
+
+The cost to me of all this trouble in money paid out, irrelevantly to
+mention, was over a thousand dollars. What it cost me in health and
+mental anxiety cannot be estimated by such value. Still, I was not the
+greatest sufferer. My hardest task was to come, you will believe, at the
+gathering up of the trinkets and other purchases which the crew had
+made, thoughtful of wife and child at home. All had to be burned, or
+spoiled with carbolic acid! A hat for the little boy here, a pair of
+boots for his mamma there, and many things for the _familia_ all
+around--all had to be destroyed!
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[2] In our discourse, Yahoo was spoken, but I write it in
+English because many of my readers would not understand the original.
+The signals that we used were made by universal code symbols. For
+example, two flags hoisted representing "P" "D" signified "want (or
+wants) immediate medical assistance." And so on, by hoists of two, three
+or four flags representing the consonants, our wants and wishes could be
+made known, each possessing the key to the code.
+
+Our commercial code of signals is so invented and arranged that no
+matter what tongues may meet, perhaps those utterly incomprehensible by
+word of mouth, yet by these signs communications may be carried on with
+great facility. The whole system is so beautifully simple that a child
+of ordinary intelligence can understand it. Even the Yahoos were made to
+comprehend--when not colour-blind. And, lest they should forget their
+lesson, a gunboat is sent out every year or two, to fire it into them
+with cannon.
+
+[3] This _cachazza_ is said to be death to microbes, or even to
+larger worms; it will kill anything, in fact, except a Yahoo!
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII
+
+     A new crew--Sail for Antonina--Load timber--Native canoes--Loss of
+     the _Aquidneck_.
+
+
+After all this sad trouble was over, a new crew was shipped, and the
+_Aquidneck's_ prow again turned seaward. Passing out by Flores, soon
+after, we observed the coast-guard searching, I learned, for a supposed
+sunken bark, which had appeared between squalls in the late gale with
+signals of distress set. I was satisfied from the account that it was
+our bark which they had seen in the gale, and the supposed flags were
+our tattered sails, what there was left of them, streaming in the storm.
+But we did not discourage the search, as it could do no harm, and I
+thought that they might perhaps find something else worth knowing about.
+This was the day, as I have said, on which my faithful cook died, while
+the bark was in sight from the window of his sick ward. It was a bright,
+fine day to us. We cannot say that it was otherwise than bright to him.
+
+Breathing once more the fresh air of the sea, we set all sail for
+Paranagua, passing the lights on the coast to leave them flickering on
+the horizon, then soon out of sight. Fine weather prevailed, but with
+much head wind; still we progressed, and rarely a day passed but
+something of the distance toward our port was gained. One day, however,
+coming to an island, one that was inhabited only by birds, we came to a
+stand, as if it were impossible to go farther on the voyage; a spell
+seemed to hang over us. I recognized the place as one that I knew well;
+a very dear friend had stood by me on deck, looking at this island,
+some years before. It was the last land that my friend ever saw. I would
+fain have sailed around it now, but a puff of fair wind coming sent us
+on our course for the time some leagues beyond. At sunset, though, this
+wind went down, and with the current we drifted back so much that by the
+next day we were farther off on the other side. However, fair wind
+coming again, we passed up inside, making thus the circuit of the island
+at last.
+
+More or less favourable winds thenceforth filled our sails, till at last
+our destined port was gained.
+
+The little town of Antonina, where my wife and Garfield had remained
+over during this voyage, twelve miles up the bay from Paranagua, soon
+after our arrival, was made alive with the noise of children marching to
+children's own music, my "Yawcob" heading the band with a brand-new
+ninety-cent organ, the most envied fellow of the whole crowd. Sorrows of
+the past took flight, or were locked in the closet at home, the fittest
+place for past misfortunes.
+
+A truly hard voyage for us all was that to Montevideo! The survivors
+reached home after a while. Their features were terribly marked and
+disfigured; so much so that I did not know them till they accosted me
+when we met.
+
+I look back with pleasure to the good character of my Brazilian sailors,
+regretting the more their hard luck and sad fate! We may meet again!
+_Quien sabe!_
+
+Getting over all this sad business as best we could, we entered on the
+next venture, which was to purchase and load a cargo of the famous
+Brazilian wood. The _Aquidneck_ was shifted to an arm of the bay, where
+she was moored under the lee of a virgin forest, twenty minutes' canoe
+ride from the village of Guarakasava, where she soon began to load.
+
+The timber of this country, generally very heavy, is nevertheless hauled
+by hand to the water, where, lashed to canoes, it is floated to the
+ship.
+
+These canoes, formed sometimes from mammoth trees, skilfully shaped and
+dug out with care, are at once the carriage and _cariole_ of the family
+to the _citio_, or the rice to mill. Roads are hardly known where the
+canoe is available; men, women, and children are consequently alike,
+skilled in the art of canoeing to perfection, almost. There are no
+carriages to speak of in such places, even a saddle horse about the
+waterfront is a _rara avis_. There was, indeed, one horse at
+Guarakasava--the owner of it was very conspicuous.
+
+The family canoe just spoken of, has the capacity, often, of several
+tons, is handsomely decorated with carvings along the topsides, and is
+painted, as the "Geordie" would say, "in none o' your gaudy colours, but
+in good plain red or blue"--sometimes, however, they are painted green.
+
+The cost of these handsome canoes are, say, from $250 down in price and
+size, from the grand turnout to the one-man craft which may be purchased
+for five milreis ($2.50).
+
+From the greatest to the smallest they are cared for with almost an
+affectionate care, and are made to last many years.
+
+One thing else which even the poorest Brazilian thinks much of is his
+affectionate wife who literally and figuratively is often in the same
+boat with her husband, pulling against the stream. Family ties are
+strong in Brazil and the sweet flower of friendship thrives in its sunny
+clime. The system of land and sea breezes prevail on the coast from Cape
+Frio to Saint Catherine with great regularity most of the year; the sail
+is therefore used to good advantage by the almost amphibious
+inhabitants along the coast who love the water and take to it like ducks
+and natural born sailors.
+
+The wind falling light they propel their canoes by paddle or long pole
+with equal facility. The occupants standing, in the smaller ones, force
+them along at a great speed. The larger ones, when the wind does not
+serve, are pulled by banks of oars which are fastened to stout pegs in
+the gunwail with grummits, that fit loosely over the oars so as to allow
+them free play in the hand of the waterman.
+
+Curling the water with fine, shapely prows as they dart over the smooth
+waters of the bays and rivers, these canoes present a picture of
+unrivalled skill and grace.
+
+I find the following entry in my diary made near the close of
+transactions at Guarakasava which in the truthful word of an historian I
+am bound to record, if only to show my prevailing high opinion of the
+natives while I was among them:--
+
+
+                                             GUARAKASAVA, Dec. 20th.
+
+     Heretofore I have doted on native Brazilian honesty as well as
+     national seamanship and skill in canoes but my dream of a perfect
+     paradise is now unsettled forever. I find, alas! that even here the
+     fall of Adam is felt: Taking in some long poles to-day the negro
+     tallyman persisted in counting twice the same pole. When the first
+     end entered the port it was "_umo_" (one); when the last end
+     disappeared into the ship he would sing out "_does_" (two).
+
+
+I had no serious difficulty over the matter, but left Guarakasava with
+that hurt feeling which comes of being over persuaded that one and one
+make four.
+
+We spent Christmas of 1887 at Guarakasava. The bark was loaded soon
+after, and when proceeding across the bay, where currents and wind
+caught her foul near a dangerous sand bar, she misstayed and went on the
+strand. The anchor was let go to club her. It wouldn't hold in the
+treacherous sands; so she dragged and stranded broadside on, where, open
+to the sea, a strong swell came in that raked her fore and aft for three
+days, the waves dashing over her groaning hull the while till at last
+her back was broke and--why not add heart as well! for she lay now
+undone. After twenty-five years of good service the _Aquidneck_ here
+ended her days!
+
+I had myself carried load on load, but alas! I could not carry a
+mountain; and was now at the end where my best skill and energy could
+not avail. What was to be done? What could be done? We had indeed the
+appearance of shipwrecked people, away, too, from home.
+
+This was no time to weep, for the lives of all the crew were saved;
+neither was it a time to laugh, for our loss was great.
+
+But the sea calmed down, and I sold the wreck, which floated off at the
+end of the storm. And after paying the crew their wages out of the
+proceeds had a moiety left for myself and family--a small sum.
+
+Then I began to look about for the future, and for means of escape from
+exile. The crew (foreign) found shipping for Montevideo, where they had
+joined the _Aquidneck_, in lieu of the stricken Brazilian sailors. But
+for myself and family this outlet was hardly available, even if we had
+cared to go farther from home,--which was the least of our thoughts; and
+there were no vessels coming our way.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX
+
+     The building of the _Liberdade_.
+
+
+     Away, away, no cloud is lowering o'er us
+     Freely now we stem the wave;
+     Hoist, hoist all sail, before us
+     Hope's beacon shines to cheer the brave.
+                                          --_Masaniello_.
+
+
+When all had been saved from the wreck that was worth saving, or that
+could be saved, we found ourselves still in the possession of some goods
+soon to become of great value to us, especially my compass and charts
+which, though much damaged, were yet serviceable and suggested practical
+usefulness; and the chronometer being found intact, my course was no
+longer undecided, my wife and sons agreeing with what I thought best.
+
+The plan, in a word, was this: We could not beg our way, neither would
+we sit idle among the natives. We found that it would require more
+courage to remain in the far-off country than to return home in a boat,
+which then we concluded to build and for that purpose.[4]
+
+My son Victor, with much pride and sympathy, entered heartily into the
+plan, which promised a speedy return home. He bent his energies in a
+practical direction, working on the boat like an old builder.
+
+Before entering on the project, however, all responsibilities were
+considered. Swift ocean currents around capes and coral reefs were taken
+into account; and above all else to be called dangerous we knew would
+be the fierce tropical storms which surely we would encounter.
+
+[Illustration: Diagram of the _Liberdade_
+
+(Length 35 ft. beam 7½ ft., draught 2½ ft. weight 6 tons.)]
+
+But a boat should be built stout and strong, we all said, one in which
+we should not be afraid to trust our lives even in the storm.
+
+And with the advantage of experience in ships and boats of various sizes
+and in many seas, I turned to the work of constructing, according to my
+judgment and means, a craft which would be best adapted to all weathers
+and all circumstances. My family with sympathetic strength pulling hard
+in the same direction.
+
+Seaworthiness was to be the first and most prominent feature in our
+microscopic ship; next to this good quality she should sail well; at
+least before free winds. We counted on favourable winds; and so they
+were experienced the greater part of the voyage that soon followed.
+
+Long exposures and many and severe disappointments by this time, I
+found, had told on health and nerve, through long quarantines, expensive
+fumigations, and ruinous doctors' visits, which had swept my dollars
+into hands other than mine. However, with still a "shot in the locker,"
+and with some feelings of our own in the matter of how we should get
+home, I say, we set to work with tools saved from the wreck--a meagre
+kit--and soon found ourselves in command of another ship, which I will
+describe the building of, also the dimensions and the model and rig,
+first naming the tools with which it was made.
+
+To begin with, we had an axe, an adze, and two saws, one ½inch auger,
+one 6/8 and one 3/8 auger-bit; two large sail-needles, which we
+converted into nailing bits; one roper, that answered for a punch; and,
+most precious of all, a file that we found in an old sail-bag washed up
+on the beach. A square we readily made. Two splints of bamboo wood
+served as compasses. Charcoal, pounded as fine as flour and mixed in
+water, took the place of chalk for the line; the latter we had on hand.
+In cases where holes larger than the 6/8 bit were required, a piece of
+small jack-stay iron was heated, and with this we could burn a hole to
+any size required. So we had, after all, quite a kit to go on with.
+Clamps, such as are used by boat builders, we had not, but made
+substitutes from the crooked guava tree and from _massaranduba_ wood.
+
+Trees from the neighbouring forest were felled when the timber from the
+wrecked cargo would not answer. Some of these woods that we sought for
+special purposes had queer sounding names, such as _arregebah,
+guanandee, batetenandinglastampai_, etc. This latter we did not use the
+saw upon at all, it being very hard, but hewed it with the axe, bearing
+in mind that we had but one file, whereas for the edged tools we had but
+to go down to a brook hard by to find stones in abundance suitable to
+sharpen them on.
+
+The many hindrances encountered in the building of the boat will not be
+recounted here. Among the least was a jungle fever, from which we
+suffered considerably. But all that and all other obstacles vanished at
+last, or became less, before a new energy which grew apace with the
+boat, and the building of the craft went rapidly forward. There was no
+short day system, but we rested on the Sabbath, or surveyed what we had
+done through the week, and made calculations of what and how to strike
+on the coming week.
+
+The unskilled part of the labour, such as sawing the cedar planks, of
+which she was mostly made, was done by the natives, who saw in a rough
+fashion, always leaving much planing and straightening to be done, in
+order to adjust the timber to a suitable shape. The planks for the
+bottom were of ironwood, 1¼ X 10 inches. For the sides and top red cedar
+was used, each plank, with the exception of two, reaching the whole
+length of the boat. This arrangement of exceedingly heavy wood in the
+bottom, and the light on top, contributed much to the stability of the
+craft.
+
+The ironwood was heavy as stone, while the cedar, being light and
+elastic, lent buoyancy and suppleness, all that we could wish for.
+
+The fastenings we gathered up in various places, some from the bulwarks
+of the wreck, some from the hinges of doors and skylights, and some were
+made from the ship's metal sheathing, which the natives melted and cast
+into nails. Pure copper nails, also, were procured from the natives,
+some ten _kilos_, for which I paid in copper coins, at the rate of two
+_kilos_ of coin for one _kilo_ of nails. The same kind of coins, called
+_dumps_, cut into diamond-shaped pieces, with holes punched through
+them, entered into the fastenings as burrs for the nails. A number of
+small eyebolts from the spanker-boom of the wreck were turned to account
+for lashing bolts in the deck of the new vessel. The nails, when too
+long, were cut to the required length, taking care that the ends which
+were cut off should not be wasted, but remelted, along with the metal
+sheathing, into other nails.
+
+Some carriage bolts, with nuts, which I found in the country, came in
+very handy; these I adjusted to the required length, when too long, by
+slipping on blocks of wood of the required thickness to take up the
+surplus length, putting the block, of course, on the inside, and
+counter-sinking the nut flush with the planks on the outside; then
+screwing from the inside outward, they were drawn together, and there
+held as in a vice, the planks being put together "lap-streak" fashion,
+which without doubt is the strongest way to build a boat.
+
+These screw-bolts, seventy in number, as well as the copper nails, cost
+us dearly, but wooden pegs, with which also she was fastened, cost only
+the labour of being made. The lashings, too, that we used here and there
+about the frame of the cabin, cost next to nothing, being made from the
+fibrous bark of trees, which could be had in abundance by the stripping
+of it off. So, taking it by and large, our materials were not expensive,
+the principal item being the timber, which cost about three cents per
+superficial foot, sawed or hewed. Rosewood, ironwood, cedar or mahogany,
+were all about the same price and very little in advance of common wood;
+so of course we selected always the best, the labour of shaping being
+least, sometimes, where the best materials were used.
+
+These various timbers and fastenings, put together as best we could
+shape and join them, made a craft sufficiently strong and seaworthy to
+withstand all the bufferings on the main upon which, in due course, she
+was launched.
+
+The hull being completed, by various other contrivances and makeshifts
+in which, sometimes, the "wooden blacksmith" was called in to assist,
+and the mother of invention also lending a hand, fixtures were made
+which served as well on the voyage as though made in a dockyard and at
+great cost.
+
+My builders baulked at nothing, and on the 13th day of May, the day on
+which the slaves of Brazil were set free, our craft was launched, and
+was named _Liberdade_ (Liberty).
+
+Her dimensions being--35 feet in length over all, 7½ feet breadth of
+beam, and 3 feet depth of hold. Who shall say that she was not large
+enough?
+
+Her model I got from my recollections of Cape Ann dories and from a
+photo of a very elegant Japanese _sampan_ which I had before me on the
+spot, so, as it might be expected, when finished she resembled both
+types of vessel in some degree.
+
+Her rig was the Chinese _sampan_ style, which is, I consider, the most
+convenient boat rig in the whole world.
+
+This was the boat, or canoe I prefer to call it, in which we purposed to
+sail for North America and home. Each one had been busy during the
+construction and past misfortunes had all been forgotten. Madam had made
+the sails--and very good sails they were, too!
+
+Victor, the carpenter, ropemaker, and general roustabout had performed
+his part. Our little man, Garfield, too, had found employment in holding
+the hammer to clinch the nails and giving much advice on the coming
+voyage. All were busy, I say, and no one had given a thought of what we
+were about to encounter from the port officials farther up the coast; it
+was pretended by them that a passport could not be granted to so small a
+craft to go on so long a voyage as the contemplated one to North
+America.
+
+Then fever returned to the writer and the constructor of the little
+craft, and I was forced to go to bed, remaining there three days.
+Finally, it came to my mind that in part of a medicine chest, which had
+been saved from the wreck, was stored some _arsenicum_, I think it is
+called. Of this I took several doses (small ones at first, you may be
+sure), and the good effect of the deadly poison on the malaria in my
+system was soon felt trickling through my veins. Increasing the doses
+somewhat, I could perceive the beneficial effect hour by hour, and in a
+few days I had quite recovered from the malady. Absurd as it was to have
+the judgment of sailors set on by pollywog navigators, we had still to
+submit, the pollywogs being numerous.
+
+About this time--as the astrologers say--a messenger came down from the
+_Alfandega_ (Custom House), asking me to repair thither at midday on the
+morrow. This filled me with alarm. True, the messenger has delivered his
+message in the politest possible manner, but that signified nothing,
+since Brazilians are always polite. This thing, small as it seems now,
+came near sending me back to the fever.
+
+What had I done?
+
+I went up next day, after having nightmare badly all night, prepared to
+say that I wouldn't do it again! The kind administrator I found, upon
+presenting myself at his office, had no fault to charge me with; but had
+a good word, instead. "The little _Liberdade_," he observed, had
+attracted the notice of his people and his own curiosity, as being "a
+handsome and well-built craft." This and many other flattering
+expressions were vented, at which I affected surprise, but secretly
+said, "I think you are right, sir, and you have good taste, too, if you
+are a customs officer."
+
+The drift of this flattery, to make a long story short, was to have me
+build a boat for the _Alfandega_, or, his government not allowing money
+to build new--pointing to one which certainly would require new keel,
+planks, ribs, stem, and stern-post--"could I not repair one?"
+
+To this proposition I begged time to consider. Flattering as the
+officer's words were, and backed by the offer of liberal pay, so long as
+the boat could be "repaired," I still had no mind to remain in the hot
+country, and risk getting the fever again. But there was the old hitch
+to be gotten over; namely, the passport, on which, we thought, depended
+our sailing.
+
+However, to expedite matters, a fishing licence was hit upon, and I
+wondered why I had not thought of that before, having been, once upon a
+time, a fisherman myself. Heading thence on a new diplomatic course, I
+commenced to fit ostensibly for a fishing voyage. To this end, a fishing
+net was made, which would be a good thing to have, anyway. Then hooks
+and lines were rigged and a cable made. This cable, or rope, was formed
+from vines that grow very long on the sand-banks just above tide water,
+several of which twisted together make a very serviceable rope, then
+being light and elastic, it is especially adapted for a boat anchor
+rope, or for the storm drag. Ninety fathoms of this rope was made for us
+by the natives, for the sum of ten milreis ($5.00).
+
+The anchor came of itself almost. I had made a wooden one from heavy
+sinking timber, but a stalwart ranchman coming along, one day, brought a
+boat anchor with him which, he said, had been used by his slaves as a
+pot-hook. "But now that they are free and away," said he, "I have no
+further use for the crooked thing." A sewing-machine, which had served
+to stitch the sails together, was coveted by him, and was of no further
+use to us; in exchange for this the prized anchor was readily secured,
+the owner of it leaving us some boot into the bargain. Things working
+thus in our favour, the wooden anchor was stowed away to be kept as a
+spare bower.
+
+These arrangements completed, our craft took on the appearance of a
+fishing smack, and I began to feel somewhat in my old element, with no
+fear of the lack of ways and means when we should arrive on our own
+coast, where I knew of fishing banks. And a document which translated
+read: "A licence to catch fish inside and outside of the bar" was
+readily granted by the port authorities.
+
+"How far outside the bar may this carry us?" I asked.
+
+"_Quien sabe!_" said the officer. (Literally translated, "Who knows?"
+but in Spanish or Portuguese used for, "Nobody knows, or, I don't
+care.")
+
+"Adieu, señor," said the polite official; "we will meet in heaven!"
+
+This meant you can go since you insist upon it, but I must not
+officially know of it; and you will probably go to the bottom. In this
+he and many others were mistaken.
+
+Having the necessary document now in our possession, we commenced to
+take in stores for the voyage, as follows: Sea-biscuits, 120 lbs.;
+flour, 25 lbs.; sugar, 30 lbs.; coffee, 9 lbs., which, roasted black and
+pounded fine as wheaten flour, was equal to double the amount as
+prepared in North America, and afforded us a much more delicious cup.
+
+Of tea we had 3 lbs.; pork, 20 lbs.; dried beef, 100 lbs.; _baccalao
+secca_ (dried codfish), 20 lbs.; 2 bottles of honey, 200 oranges, 6
+bunches of bananas, 120 gallons of water; also a small basket of yams,
+and a dozen sticks of sugar-cane, by way of vegetables.
+
+Our medicine chest contained Brazil nuts, pepper, and cinnamon; no other
+medicines or condiments were required on the voyage, except table salt,
+which we also had.
+
+One musket and a carbine--which had already stood us in good
+stead--together with ammunition and three cutlasses were stowed away for
+last use, to be used, nevertheless, in case of necessity.
+
+The light goods I stowed in the ends of the canoe, the heavier in the
+middle and along the bottom, thus economizing space and lending to the
+stability of the canoe. Over the top of the midship stores a floor was
+made, which, housed over by a tarpaulin roof reaching three feet above
+the deck of the canoe, supported by a frame of bamboo, gave us sitting
+space of four feet from the floor to the roof, and twelve feet long
+amidships. This arrangement of cabin in the centre gave my passengers a
+berth where the least motion would be felt; even this is saying but
+little, for best we could do to avoid it we had still to accept much
+tossing from the waves.
+
+Precautionary measures were taken in everything, so far as our resources
+and skill could reach. The springy and buoyant bamboo was used wherever
+stick of any kind was required, such as the frame and braces for the
+cabin, yards for the sails, and, finally, for guard on her top sides,
+making the canoe altogether a self-righting one, in case of a capsize.
+Each joint in the bamboo was an air-chamber of several pounds buoyant
+capacity, and we had a thousand joints.
+
+The most important of our stores, particularly the flour, bread, and
+coffee, were hermetically sealed, so that if actually turned over at
+sea, our craft would not only right herself, but would bring her stores
+right side up, in good order, and it then would be only a question of
+baling her out, and of setting her again on her course, when we would
+come on as right as ever. As it turned out, however, no such trial or
+mishap awaited us.
+
+While the possibility of many and strange occurrences was felt by all of
+us, the danger which loomed most in little Garfield's mind was that of
+the sharks.
+
+A fine specimen was captured on the voyage, showing five rows of pearly
+teeth, as sharp as lances.
+
+Some of these monsters, it is said, have nine rows of teeth; that they
+are always hungry is admitted by sailors of great experience.
+
+How it is that sailors can go in bathing, as they often do, in the face
+of a danger so terrible, is past my comprehension. Their business is to
+face danger, to be sure, but this is a needless exposure, for which the
+penalty is sometimes a life. The second mate of a bark on the coast of
+Cuba, not long ago, was bitten in twain, and the portions swallowed
+whole by a monster shark that he had tempted in this way. The shark was
+captured soon after, and the poor fellow's remains taken out of the
+revolting maw.
+
+Leaving the sharks where they are, I gladly return to the voyage of the
+_Liberdade_.
+
+FOOTNOTE:
+
+[4] This alternative I was obliged to accept, or bring my
+family home as paupers, for my wealth was gone--need I explain more?
+This explanation has been forced from me.
+
+[Illustration: The _Liberdade_]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X
+
+     Across the bar--The run to Santos--Tow to Rio by the steamship--At
+     Rio.
+
+
+The efficiency of our canoe was soon discovered: On the 24th of June,
+after having sailed about the bay some few days to temper our feelings
+to the new craft, and shake things into place, we crossed the bar and
+stood out to sea, while six vessels lay inside "bar-bound," that is to
+say by their pilots it was thought too rough to venture out, and they,
+the pilots, stood on the point as we put out to sea, crossing themselves
+in our behalf, and shouting that the bar was _crudo_. But the
+_Liberdade_ stood on her course, the crew never regretting it.
+
+The wind from the sou'west at the time was the moderating side of a
+_pampeiro_ which had brought in a heavy swell from the ocean, that broke
+and thundered on the bar with deafening roar and grand display of
+majestic effort.
+
+But our little ship bounded through the breakers like a fish--as natural
+to the elements, and as free!
+
+Of all the seas that broke furiously about her that day, often standing
+her on end, not one swept over or even boarded her, and she finally came
+through the storm of breakers in triumph. Then squaring away before the
+wind she spread her willing sails, and flew onward like a bird.
+
+It required confidence and some courage to face the first storm in so
+small a bark, after having been years in large ships; but it would have
+required more courage than was possessed by any of us to turn back,
+since thoughts of home had taken hold on our minds.
+
+Then, too, the old boating trick came back fresh to me, the love of the
+thing itself gaining on me as the little ship stood out: and my crew
+with one voice said: "Go on." The heavy South Atlantic swell rolling in
+upon the coast, as we sped along, toppled over when it reached the ten
+fathom line, and broke into roaring combers, which forbade our nearer
+approach to the land.
+
+Evidently, our safest course was away from the shore, and out where the
+swelling seas, though grand, were regular, and raced under our little
+craft that danced like a mite on the ocean as she drove forward. In
+twenty-four hours from the time Paranagua bar was crossed we were up
+with Santos Heads, a run of 150 miles.
+
+A squall of wind burst on us through a gulch, as we swept round the
+Heads, tearing our sails into shreds, and sending us into Santos under
+bare poles.
+
+Chancing then upon an old friend, the mail steamship _Finance_, Capt.
+Baker, about to sail for Rio, the end of a friendly line was extended to
+us, and we were towed by the stout steamer toward Rio, the next day, as
+fast as we could wish to go. My wife and youngest sailor took passage on
+the steamer, while Victor remained in the canoe with me, and stood by
+with axe in hand, to cut the tow-line, if the case should require
+it--and I steered.
+
+"Look out," said Baker, as the steamer began to move ahead, "look out
+that I don't snake that canoe out from under you."
+
+"Go on with your mails, Baker," was all I could say, "don't blow up your
+ship with my wife and son on board, and I will look out for the packet
+on the other end of the rope."
+
+Baker opened her up to thirteen knots, but the _Liberdade_ held on!
+
+The line that we towed with was 1-1/3 inches in diameter, by ninety
+fathoms long. This, at times when the steamer surged over seas, leaving
+the canoe on the opposite side of a wave astern, would become as taut as
+a harp-string. At other times it would slacken and sink limp in a bight,
+under the forefoot, but only for a moment, however, when the steamer's
+next great plunge ahead would snap it taut again, pulling us along with
+a heavy, trembling jerk. Under the circumstances, straight steering was
+imperative, for a sheer to port or starboard would have finished the
+career of the _Liberdade_, by sending her under the sea. Therefore, the
+trick of twenty hours fell to me--the oldest and most experienced
+helmsman. But I was all right and not over-fatigued until Baker cast oil
+upon the "troubled waters." I soon got tired of that.
+
+Victor was under the canvas covering, with the axe still in hand, ready
+to cut the line which was so arranged that he could reach it from
+within, and cut instantly, if by mischance the canoe should take a
+sheer.
+
+I was afraid that the lad would become sleepy, and putting his head
+"under his wing" for a nap, would forget his post, but my frequent cry,
+"Stand by there, Victor," found him always on hand, though complaining
+somewhat of the dizzy motion.
+
+Heavy sprays dashed over me at the helm, which, however, seeming to wash
+away the sulphur and brimstone smoke of many a quarantine, brought
+enjoyment to my mind.
+
+Confused waves rose about us, high and dangerous--often high above the
+gunwale of the canoe--but her shapely curves balanced her well, and she
+rode over them all in safety.
+
+This canoe ride was thrilling and satisfactory to us all. It proved
+beyond a doubt that we had in this little craft a most extraordinary
+sea-boat, for the tow was a thorough test of her seaworthiness.
+
+The captain of the steamer ordered oil cast over from time to time,
+relieving us of much spray and sloppy motion, but adding to discomforts
+of taste to me at the helm, for much of the oil blew over me and in my
+face. Said the captain to one of his mates (an old whaler by the way,
+and whalers for some unaccountable reason have never too much regard for
+a poor merchantman), "Mr. Smith."
+
+"Aye, aye, sir," answered old Smith.
+
+"Mr. Smith, hoist out that oil."
+
+"Aye, aye, sir," said the old "blubberhunter," in high glee, as he went
+about it with alacrity, and in less than five minutes from the time the
+order was given, I was smothering in grease and our boat was oiled from
+keel to truck.
+
+"She's all right now," said Smith.
+
+"That's all right," said Baker, but I thought it all wrong. The wind,
+meanwhile, was in our teeth and before we crossed Rio bar I had
+swallowed enough oil to cure any amount of consumption.
+
+Baker, I have heard, said he wouldn't care much if he should "drown
+Slocum." But I was all right so long as the canoe didn't sheer, and we
+arrived at Rio safe and sound after the most exciting boat-ride of my
+life. I was bound not to cut the line that towed us so well; and I knew
+that Baker wouldn't let it go, for it was his rope.
+
+I found at Rio that my fishing licence could be exchanged for a pass of
+greater import. This document had to be procured through the office of
+the Minister of Marine.
+
+Many a smart linguist was ready to use his influence on my behalf with
+the above-named high official; but I found at the end of a month that I
+was making headway about as fast as a Dutch galliot in a head sea after
+the wind had subsided. Our worthy Consul, General H. Clay Armstrong,
+gave me a hint of what the difficulty was and how to obviate it. I then
+went about the business myself as I should have done at first, and I
+found those at the various departments who were willing to help me
+without the intervention of outside "influence."
+
+Commander Marquis of the Brazilian navy recommended me to His
+Excellency, the Minister of Marine, "out of regard," he said, "for
+American seamen," and when the new document came it was "_Passe
+Especial_," and had on it _a seal as big as a soup plate_. A port naval
+officer then presented me to the good _Administradore,_ who also gave me
+a _passe especial_, with the seal of the _Alfandega_.
+
+I had now only to procure a bill of health, when I should have papers
+enough for a man-o'-war. Rio being considered a healthy place, this was
+readily granted, making our equipment complete.
+
+I met here our minister whose office, with other duties, is to keep a
+weather-eye lifting in the interest of that orphan, the American
+ship--alas, my poor relation! Said he, "Captain, if your _Liberdade_ be
+as good as your papers" (documents given me by the Brazilian officials),
+"you may get there all right"; adding, "well, if the boat ever reaches
+home she will be a great curiosity," the meaning of which, I could
+readily infer, was, "and your chances for a snap in a dime museum will
+be good." This, after many years of experience as an American
+shipmaster, and also shipowner, in a moderate way, was interesting
+encouragement. By our Brazilian friends, however, the voyage was looked
+upon as a success already achieved.
+
+
+     The utmost confidence [said the "Journal Opiz," of Rio], is placed
+     in the cool-headed, audacious American mariner, and we expect in a
+     short time to hear proclaimed in all of the journals of the Old and
+     New World the safe arrival of this wonderful little craft at her
+     destination, ourselves taking part in the glory. (Temos confianca
+     na pericia e sangue frio do audaciauso marinhero Americano por isso
+     esperamos que dentro em pouco tempo veremos o seu nome proclamado
+     por todos os jornaes do velho e novo mundo. A nos tambem cabera
+     parte da gloria.)
+
+
+With these and like kind expressions from all of our _friends_, we took
+leave of Rio, sailing on the morning of July 23rd, 1888.
+
+[Illustration: Course of the _Liberdade_ from Paranagua to Barbadoes]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI
+
+     Sail from Rio--Anchor at Cape Frio--Encounter with a whale--Sunken
+     treasure--The schoolmaster--The merchant--The good people at the
+     village--A pleasant visit.
+
+
+July 23rd, 1888, was the day, as I have said, on which we sailed from
+Rio de Janeiro.
+
+Meeting with head winds and light withal, through the day we made but
+little progress; and finally, when night came on, we anchored twenty
+miles east of Rio Heads, near the shore. Long, rolling seas rocked us as
+they raced by, then, dashing their great bodies against defying rocks,
+made music by which we slept that night. But a trouble unthought of
+before came up in Garfield's mind before going to his bunk; "Mamma,"
+cried he, as our little bark rose and fell on the heavy waves, tumbling
+the young sailor about from side to side in the small quarters while he
+knelt seriously at his evening devotion, "mamma, this boat isn't big
+enough to pray in!" But this difficulty was gotten over in time, and
+Garfield learned to watch as well as to pray on the voyage, and full of
+faith that all would be well, laid him down nights and slept as
+restfully as any Christian on sea or land.
+
+By daylight of the second day we were again underweigh, beating to the
+eastward against the old head wind and head sea. On the following night
+we kept her at it, and the next day made Cape Frio where we anchored
+near the entrance to a good harbour.
+
+Time from Rio, two days; distance, 70 miles.
+
+The wind and tide being adverse, compelled us to wait outside for a
+favourable change. While comfortably anchored at this place, a huge
+whale, nosing about, came up under the canoe, giving us a toss and a
+great scare. We were at dinner when it happened. The meal, it is
+needless to say, was finished without dessert. The great sea
+animal--fifty to sixty feet long--circling around our small craft,
+looked terribly big. He was so close to me twice, as he swam round and
+round the canoe, that I could have touched him either time with a
+paddle. His flukes stirring the water like a steamer propeller appeared
+alarmingly close and powerful!--and what an ugly mouth the monster had!
+Well, we expected instant annihilation. The fate of the stout whale-ship
+_Essex_ came vividly before me. The voyage of the _Liberdade_, I
+thought, was about ended, and I looked about for pieces of bamboo on
+which to land my wife and family. Just then, however, to the infinite
+relief of all of us, the leviathan moved off, without doing us much
+harm, having felt satisfied, perhaps, that we had no Jonah on board.
+
+We lost an anchor through the incident, and received some small damage
+to the keel, but no other injury was done--even this, I believe, upon
+second thought, was unintentional--done in playfulness only! "A shark
+can take a joke," it is said, and crack one too, but for broad, rippling
+humour the whale has no equal.
+
+"If this be a sample of our adventures in the beginning," thought I, "we
+shall have enough and to spare by the end of the voyage." A visit from
+this quarter had not been counted on; but Sancho Panza says, "When least
+aware starts the hare," which in our case, by the by, was a great whale!
+
+When our breath came back and the hair on our heads settled to a normal
+level, we set sail, and dodged about under the lee of the cape till a
+cove, with a very enticing sand beach at the head of it, opened before
+us, some three miles northwest of where we lost the anchor in the
+remarkable adventure with the whale. The "spare bower" was soon bent to
+the cable. Then we stood in and anchored near a cliff, over which was a
+goat-path leading in the direction of a small fishing village, about a
+mile away. Sheering the boat in to the rocky side of the cove which was
+steep to, we leaped out, warp in hand, and made fast to a boulder above
+the tidal flow, then, scrambling over the cliff, we repaired to the
+village, first improvising a spare anchor from three sticks and a stone
+which answered the purpose quite well.
+
+Judging at once that we were strangers the villagers came out to meet
+us, and made a stir at home to entertain us in the most hospitable
+manner, after the custom of the country, and with the villagers was a
+gentleman from Canada, a Mr. Newkirk, who, as we learned, was engaged,
+when the sea was smooth, in recovering treasure that was lost near the
+cape in the British warship _Thetis_, which was wrecked there in 1830.
+The treasure, some millions in silver coins and gold in bars, from Peru
+for England, was dumped in the cove, which has since taken the name of
+the ship that bore it there and, as I have said, came to grief in that
+place which is on the west shore near the end of the cape.
+
+Some of the coins were given to us to be treasured as souvenirs of the
+pleasant visit. We found in Mr. Newkirk a versatile, roving genius; he
+had been a schoolmaster at home, captain of a lake schooner once, had
+practised medicine, and preached some, I think; and what else I do not
+know. He had tried many things for a living, but, like the proverbial
+moving stone had failed to accumulate. "Matters," said the Canadian,
+"were getting worse and worse even, till finally to keep my head above
+water I was forced to go under the sea," and he had struck it rich, it
+would seem, if gold being brought in by the boat-load was any sign. This
+man of many adventures still spoke like a youngster; no one had told him
+that he was growing old. He talked of going home, as soon as the balance
+of the treasure was secured, "just to see his dear old mother," who, by
+the way, was seventy-four years old when he left home, some twenty years
+before. Since his last news from home, nearly two decades had gone by.
+He was "the youngest of a family of eighteen children, all living," he
+said, "though," added he, "our family came near being made one less
+yesterday, by a whale which I thought would eat my boat, diving-bell,
+crew, money and all, as he came toward us, with open mouth. By a back
+stroke of the oars, however, we managed to cheat him out of his dinner,
+if that was what he was after, and I think it was, but here I am!" he
+cried, "all right!" and might have added, "wealthy after all."
+
+After hearing the diver's story, I related in Portuguese our own
+adventure of the same day, and probably with the same whale, the monster
+having gone in the direction of the diver's boat. The astonishment of
+the listeners was great; but when they learned of our intended voyage to
+_America do Norte_, they crossed themselves and asked God to lend us
+grace!
+
+"Is North America near New York?" asked the village merchant, who owned
+all the boats and nets of the place.
+
+"Why, America is _in_ New York," answered the ex-schoolmaster.
+
+"I thought so," said the self-satisfied merchant. And no doubt he
+thought some of us very stupid, or rude, or both, but in spite of
+manners I had to smile at the assuring air of the Canadian.
+
+"Why did you not answer him correctly?" I asked of the ex-schoolmaster.
+
+"I answered him," said Newkirk, "according to his folly. Had I corrected
+his rusty geography before these simple, impoverished fishermen, he
+would not soon forgive me; and as for the rest of the poor souls here,
+the knowledge would do them but little good."
+
+I may mention that in this out-of-the-way place there were no schools,
+and except the little knowledge gained in their church, from the
+catechism, and from the fumbling of beads, they were the most innocent
+of this world's scheme, of any people I ever met. But they seemed to
+know all about heaven, and were, no doubt, happy.
+
+After the brief, friendly chat that we had, coffee was passed around,
+the probabilities of the _Liberdade's_ voyage discussed, and the crew
+cautioned against the dangers of the _balaena_ (whale), which were
+numerous along the coast, and vicious at that season of the year, having
+their young to protect.
+
+I realized very often the startling sensation alone of a night at the
+helm, of having a painful stillness broken by these leviathans bursting
+the surface of the water with a noise like the roar of a great sea,
+uncomfortably near, reminding me of the Cape Frio adventure; and my
+crew, I am sure, were not less sensitive to the same feeling of an awful
+danger, however imaginary. One night in particular, dark and foggy I
+remember, Victor called me excitedly, saying that something dreadful
+ahead and drawing rapidly near had frightened him.
+
+It proved to be a whale, for some reason that I could only guess at,
+threshing the sea with its huge body, and surging about in all
+directions, so that it puzzled me to know which way to steer to go
+clear. I thought at first, from the rumpus made, that a fight was going
+on, such as we had once witnessed from the deck of the _Aquidneck_, not
+far from this place. Our course was changed as soon as we could decide
+which way to avoid, if possible, all marine disturbers of the peace. We
+wished especially to keep away from infuriated swordfish, which I feared
+might be darting about, and be apt to give us a blind thrust. Knowing
+that they sometimes pierce stout ships through with their formidable
+weapons, I began to feel ticklish about the ribs myself, I confess, and
+the little watch below, too, got uneasy and sleepless; for one of these
+swords, they knew well, would reach through and through our little boat,
+from keel to deck. Large ships have occasionally been sent into port
+leaky from the stab of a sword, but what I most dreaded was the
+possibility of one of us being ourselves pinned in the boat.
+
+A swordfish once pierced a whale-ship through the planking, and through
+the solid frame timber and the thick ceiling, with his sword, leaving it
+there, a valuable plug indeed, with the point, it was found upon
+unshipping her cargo at New Bedford, even piercing through a cask in the
+hold.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII
+
+     Sail from Frio--Round Cape St. Thome--High seas and swift
+     currents--In the "trades"--Dangerous reefs--Run into harbour
+     unawares, on a dark and stormy night--At Caravellas--Fine
+     weather--A gale--Port St. Paulo--Treacherous natives--Sail for
+     Bahia.
+
+
+July 30th, early in the day, and after a pleasant visit at the cape, we
+sailed for the north, securing first a few sea shells to be cherished,
+with the _Thetis_ relics, in remembrance of a most enjoyable visit to
+the hospitable shores of Cape Frio.
+
+Having now doubled Cape Frio, a prominent point in our voyage, and
+having had the seaworthiness of our little ship thoroughly tested, as
+already told; and seeing, moreover, that we had nothing to fear from
+common small fry of the sea (one of its greatest monsters having failed
+to capsize us), we stood on with greater confidence than ever, but
+watchful, nevertheless, for any strange event that might happen.
+
+A fresh polar wind hurried us on, under shortened sail, toward the
+softer "trades" of the tropics, but, veering to the eastward by
+midnight, it brought us well in with the land. Then, "Larboard watch,
+ahoy! all hands on deck and turn out reefs," was the cry. To weather
+Cape St. Thome we must lug on all sail. And we go over the shoals with a
+boiling sea and current in our favour. In twenty-four hours from Cape
+Frio, we had lowered the Southern Cross three degrees--180 miles.
+
+Sweeping by the cape, the canoe sometimes standing on end, and sometimes
+buried in the deep hollow of the sea, we sunk the light on St. Thome
+soon out of sight and stood on with flowing sheet. The wind on the
+following day settled into regular south-east "trades," and our cedar
+canoe skipped briskly along, over friendly seas that were leaping toward
+home, doffing their crests onward and forward, but never back, and the
+splashing waves against her sides, then rippling along the thin cedar
+planks between the crew and eternity, vibrated enchanting music to the
+ear, while confidence grew in the bark that was HOMEWARD BOUND.
+
+But coming upon coral reefs, of a dark night, while we listened to the
+dismal tune of the seas breaking over them with an eternal roar, how
+intensely lonesome they were! no sign of any living thing in sight,
+except, perhaps, the phosphorescent streaks of a hungry shark, which
+told of bad company in our wake, and made the gloom of the place more
+dismal still.
+
+One night we made shelter under the lee of the extensive reefs called
+the Paredes (walls), without seeing the breakers at all in the dark,
+although they were not far in the distance. At another time, dragging on
+sail to clear a lee shore, of a dark and stormy night, we came suddenly
+into smooth water, where we cast anchor and furled our sails, lying in a
+magic harbour till daylight the next morning, when we found ourselves
+among a maze of ugly reefs, with high seas breaking over them, as far as
+the eye could reach, on all sides, except at the small entrance to the
+place that we had stumbled into in the night. The position of this
+future harbour is South Lat. 16° 48', and West Long, from Greenwich 39°
+30'. We named the place "PORT LIBERDADE."
+
+The next places sighted were the treacherous Abrohles, and the village
+of Caravellas back of the reef where, upon refitting, I found that a
+chicken cost a thousand reis, a bunch of bananas four hundred reis; but
+where a dozen limes cost only twenty reis--one cent. Much whaling gear
+lay strewn about the place, and on the beach was the carcass of a whale
+about nine days slain. Also leaning against a smart-looking boat was a
+grey-haired fisherman, boat and man relics of New Bedford, employed at
+this station in their familiar industry. The old man was bare-footed and
+thinly clad, after the custom in this climate. Still, I recognized the
+fisherman and sailor in the set and rig of the few duds he had on, and
+the ample straw hat (donkey's breakfast) that he wore, and doffed in a
+seaman-like manner, upon our first salute. "_Filio do Mar do Nord
+Americano_," said an affable native close by, pointing at the same time
+to that "son of the sea of North America," by way of introduction, as
+soon as it was learned that we, too, were of that country. I tried to
+learn from this ancient mariner the cause of his being stranded in this
+strange land. He may have been cast up there by the whale for aught I
+could learn to the contrary.
+
+Choosing a berth well to windward of the dead whale--the one that landed
+"the old man of the sea" there, maybe!--we anchored for the night, put a
+light in the rigging and turned in. Next morning, the village was astir
+betimes; canoes were being put afloat, and the rattle of poles, paddles,
+bait boxes, and many more things for the daily trip that were being
+hastily put into each canoe, echoed back from the tall palm groves notes
+of busy life, telling us that it was time to weigh anchor and be
+sailing. To this cheerful tune we lent ear and, hastening to be
+underweigh, were soon clear of the port. Then, skimming along near the
+beach in the early morning, our sails spread to a land breeze, laden
+with fragrance from the tropic forest and the music of many songsters,
+we sailed in great felicity, dreading no dangers from the sea, for
+there were none now to dread or fear.
+
+Proceeding forward through this belt of moderate winds, fanned by
+alternating land and sea breezes, we drew on toward a region of high
+trade-winds that reach sometimes the dignity of a gale. It was no
+surprise, therefore, after days of fine-weather sailing, to be met by a
+storm, which so happened as to drive us into the indifferent anchorage
+of St. Paulo, thirty miles from Bahia, where we remained two days for
+shelter.
+
+Time, three days from Caravellas; distance sailed, 270 miles.
+
+A few fishermen lounged about the place, living, apparently, in wretched
+poverty, spending their time between waiting for the tide to go out,
+when it was in, and waiting for it to come in, when it was out, to float
+a canoe or bring fish to their shiftless nets. This, indeed, seemed
+their only concern in life; while their ill-thatched houses, forsaken of
+the adobe that once clung to the wicker walls, stood grinning in rows,
+like emblems of our mortality.
+
+We found at this St. Paulo anything but saints. The wretched place
+should be avoided by strangers, unless driven there for shelter, as we
+ourselves were, by stress of weather. We left the place on the first
+lull of the wind, having been threatened by an attack from a gang of
+rough, half-drunken fellows, who rudely came on board, jostling about,
+and jabbering in a dialect which, however, I happened to understand. I
+got rid of them by the use of my broken Portuguese, and once away I was
+resolved that they should stay away. I was not mistaken in my suspicions
+that they would return and try to come aboard, which shortly afterward
+they did, but my resolution to keep them off was not shaken. I let them
+know, in their own jargon this time, that I was well armed. They
+finally paddled back to the shore, and all visiting was then ended. We
+stood a good watch that night, and by daylight next morning, Aug. 12th,
+put to sea, standing out in a heavy swell, the character of which I knew
+better, and could trust to more confidently than a harbour among
+treacherous natives.
+
+Early in the same day, we arrived at _Bahia do todos Santos_ (All
+Saints' Bay), a charming port, with a rich surrounding country. It was
+from this port, by the way, that Robinson Crusoe sailed for Africa to
+procure slaves for his plantation and that of his friend, so fiction
+relates.
+
+At Bahia we met many friends and gentle folk. Not the least interesting
+at this port are the negro lasses of fine physique seen at the markets
+and in the streets, with burdens on their heads of baskets of fruit, or
+jars of water, which they balance with ease and grace, as they go
+sweeping by with that stately mien which the dusky maiden can call her
+own.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII
+
+     At Bahia--Meditations on the discoverers--The Caribbees.
+
+
+At Bahia we refitted, with many necessary provisions, and repaired the
+keel, which we found, upon hauling out, had been damaged by the
+encounter with the whale at Frio. An iron shoe was now added for the
+benefit of all marine monsters wishing to scratch their backs on our
+canoe.
+
+Among the many friends whom we met at Bahia were Capt. Boyd and his
+family of the bark _H. W. Palmer_. We shall meet the _Palmer_ and the
+Boyds again on the voyage. They were old traders to South America and
+had many friends at this port who combined to make our visit a pleasant
+one. And their little son Rupert was greatly taken with the
+"_Rib_erdade," as he called her, coming often to see us. And the
+officials of the port taking great interest in our voyage, came often on
+board. No one could have treated us more kindly than they.
+
+The venerable _Administradore_ himself gave us special welcome to the
+port and a kind word upon our departure, accompanied by a present for my
+wife in the shape of a rare white flower, which we cherished greatly as
+coming from a true gentleman.
+
+Some strong abolitionists at the port would have us dine in an epicurean
+way in commemoration of the name given our canoe, which was adopted
+because of her having been put afloat on the thirteenth day of May, the
+day on which every human being in Brazil could say, "I have no master
+but one." I declined the banquet tendered us, having work on hand,
+fortifying the canoe against the ravaging worms of the seas we were yet
+to sail through, bearing in mind the straits of my great predecessor
+from this as well as other causes on his voyage over the Caribbean Seas.
+I was bound to be strengthened against the enemy.
+
+The gout, it will be remembered, seized upon the good Columbus while his
+ship had worms, when both ship and admiral lay stranded among menacing
+savages; surrounded, too, by a lawless, threatening band of his own
+countrymen not less treacherous than the worst of cannibals. His state
+was critical indeed! One calamity was from over-high living--this I was
+bound to guard against--the other was from neglect on the part of his
+people to care for the ship in a seaman-like manner. Of the latter
+difficulty I had no risk to run.
+
+Lazy and lawless, but through the pretext of religion, the infected crew
+wrought on the pious feelings of the good admiral, inducing him at every
+landing to hold mass instead of cleaning the foul ship. Thus through
+petty intrigue and grave neglects, they brought disaster and sorrow on
+their leader and confusion on their own heads. Their religion, never
+deep, could not be expected to keep _Terredo_ from the ship's bottom, so
+her timbers were ravished, and ruin came to them all! Poor Columbus! had
+he but sailed with his son Diego and his noble brother Bartholomew, for
+his only crew and companions, not forgetting the help of a good woman,
+America would have been discovered without those harrowing tales of woe
+and indeed heartrending calamities which followed in the wake of his
+designing people. Nor would his ship have been less well manned than was
+the _Liberdade_, sailing, centuries after, over the same sea and among
+many of the islands visited by the great discoverer--sailing, too,
+without serious accident of any kind, and without sickness or
+discontent. Our advantage over Columbus, I say, was very great, not
+more from the possession of data of the centuries which had passed than
+from having a willing crew sailing without dissent or murmur--sailing in
+the same boat, as it were.
+
+A pensive mood comes over one voyaging among the scenes of the New
+World's early play-ground. To us while on this canoe voyage of pleasant
+recollection the fancied experience of navigators gone before was
+intensely thrilling.
+
+Sailing among islands clothed in eternal green, the same that Columbus
+beheld with marvellous anticipations, and the venerable Las Casas had
+looked upon with pious wonder, brought us, in the mind's eye, near the
+old discoverers; and a feeling that we should come suddenly upon their
+ships around some near headland took deep hold upon our thoughts as we
+drew in with the shores. All was there to please the imagination and
+dream over in the same balmy, sleepy atmosphere, where Juan Ponce de
+Leon would fain have tarried young, but found death rapid, working side
+by side with ever springing life. To live long in this clime one must
+obey great Nature's laws. So stout Juan and millions since have found,
+and so always it will be.
+
+All was there to testify as of yore, all except the first owners of the
+land; they alas! the poor Caribbees, together with their camp fires, had
+been extinguished long years before. And no one of human sympathy can
+read of the cruel tortures and final extermination of these islanders,
+savages though they were, without a pang of regret at the unpleasant
+page in a history of glory and civilization.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV
+
+     Bahia to Pernambuco--The meeting of the _Finance_ at sea--At
+     Pernambuco--Round Cape St. Roque--A gale--Breakers--The stretch to
+     Barbadoes--Flying-fish alighting on deck--Dismasted--Arrive at
+     Carlysle Bay.
+
+
+From Bahia to Pernambuco our course lay along that part of the Brazilian
+coast fanned by constant trade-winds. Nothing unusual occurred to
+disturb our peace or daily course, and we pressed forward night and day,
+as was our wont from the first.
+
+Victor and I stood watch and watch at sea, usually four hours each.
+
+The most difficult of our experiences in fine weather was the intense
+drowsiness brought on by constantly watching the oscillating compass at
+night: even in the daytime this motion would make one sleepy.
+
+We soon found it necessary to arrange a code of signals which would
+communicate between the tiller and the "man forward." This was
+accomplished by means of a line or messenger extending from one to the
+other, which was understood by the number of pulls given by it; three
+pulls, for instance, meant "Turn out," one in response, "Aye, aye, I am
+awake, and what is it that is wanted?" one pull in return signified that
+it was "Eight bells," and so on. But three quick jerks meant "Tumble out
+and shorten sail."
+
+Victor, it was understood, would tie the line to his arm or leg when he
+turned in, so that by pulling I would be sure to arouse him, or bring
+him somewhat unceremoniously out of his bunk. Once, however, the
+messenger failed to accomplish its purpose. A boot came out on the line
+in answer to my call, so easily, too, that I suspected a trick. It was
+evidently a preconceived plan by which to gain a moment more of sleep.
+It was a clear imposition on the man at the wheel!
+
+We had also a sign in this system of telegraphing that told of
+flying-fish on board--manna of the sea--to be gathered up for the
+_cuisine_ whenever they happened to alight or fall on deck, which was
+often, and as often they found a warm welcome.
+
+The watch was never called to make sail. As for myself, I had never to
+be called, having thoughts of the voyage and its safe completion on my
+mind to keep me always on the alert. I can truly say that I never, on
+the voyage, slept so sound as to forget where I was, but whenever I fell
+into a doze at all it would be to dream of the boat and the voyage.
+
+Press on! press on! was the watchword while at sea, but in port we
+enjoyed ourselves and gave up care for rest and pleasure, carrying a
+supply, as it were, to sea with us, where sail was again carried on.
+
+Though a mast should break, it would be no matter of serious concern,
+for we would be at no loss to mend and rig up spars for this craft at
+short notice, most anywhere.
+
+The third day out from Bahia was set fine weather. A few flying-fish
+made fruitless attempts to rise from the surface of the sea, attracting
+but little attention from the sea-gulls which sat looking wistfully
+across the unbroken deep with folded wings.
+
+And the _Liberdade_, doing her utmost to get along through the common
+quiet, made but little progress on her way. A dainty fish played in her
+light wake, till tempted by an evil appetite for flies, it landed in the
+cockpit upon a hook, thence into the pan, where many a one had brought
+up before. Breakfast was cleared away at an early hour; then day of
+good things happened--"the meeting of the ships."
+
+
+     When o'er the silent sea alone
+       For days and nights we've cheerless gone,
+     Oh they who've felt it know how sweet,
+       Some sunny morn a sail to meet.
+
+     Sparkling at once is every eye,
+       "Ship ahoy! ship ahoy!" our joyful cry
+     While answering back the sound we hear,
+       "Ship ahoy! ship ahoy! what cheer, what cheer."
+
+     Then sails are backed, we nearer come,
+       Kind words are said of friends and home,
+     And soon, too soon, we part with pain,
+       To sail o'er silent seas again.
+
+
+On the clear horizon could be seen a ship, which proved to be our
+staunch old friend, the _Finance_, on her way out to Brazil, heading
+nearly for us. Our course was at once changed, so as to cross her bows.
+She rose rapidly, hull up, showing her lines of unmistakable beauty, the
+Stars and Stripes waving over all. They on board the great ship soon
+descried our little boat, and gave sign by a deep whistle that came
+rumbling over the sea, telling us that we were recognized. A few moments
+later and the engines stopped. Then came the hearty hail, "Do you want
+assistance?" Our answer "No" brought cheer on cheer from the steamer's
+deck, while the _Liberdade_ bowed and courtesied to her old
+acquaintance, the superior ship. Captain Baker, meanwhile, not
+forgetting a sailor's most highly prized luxury, had ordered in the
+slings a barrel of potatoes--new from home! Then dump they came, in a
+jiffy, into the canoe, giving her a settle in the water of some inches.
+Other fresh provisions were handed us, also some books and late papers.
+J. Aspinwill Hodge, D.D., on a tour of inspection in the interest of the
+Presbyterian Mission in Brazil--on deck here with his camera--got an
+excellent photograph of the canoe.[5]
+
+One gentleman passed us a bottle of wine, on the label of which was
+written the name of an old acquaintance, a merchant of Rio. We pledged
+Mr. Gudgeon and all his fellow passengers in that wine, and had some
+left long after, to the health of the captain of the ship, and his crew.
+There was but little time for words, so the compliments passed were
+brief. The ample plates in the sides of the _Finance_, inspiring
+confidence in American thoroughness and build, we had hardly time to
+scan, when her shrill whistle said "good-bye," and moving proudly on,
+the great ship was soon out of sight, while the little boat, filling
+away on the starboard tack, sailed on toward home, perfumed with the
+interchange of a friendly greeting, tinged though with a palpable
+lonesomeness. Two days after this pleasant meeting, the Port of
+Pernambuco was reached.
+
+Tumbling in before a fresh "trade" wind that in the evening had sprung
+up, accompanied with long, rolling seas, our canoe came nicely round the
+point between lighted reef and painted buoy.
+
+Spray from the breakers on the reef opportunely wetting her sails gave
+them a flat surface to the wind as we came close haul.
+
+The channel leading up the harbour was not strange to us, so we sailed
+confidently along the lee of the wonderful wall made by worms, to which
+alone Pernambuco is indebted for its excellent harbour; which,
+extending also along a great stretch of the coast, protects Brazil from
+the encroachment of the sea.
+
+At 8 p.m. we came to in a snug berth near the _Alfandega_, and early
+next morning received the official visit from the polite port officers.
+
+Time from Bahia, five days; distance sailed, 390 miles.
+
+Pernambuco, the principal town of a large and wealthy province of the
+same name, is a thriving place, sending out valuable cargoes,
+principally of sugar and cotton. I had loaded costly cargoes here, times
+gone by. I met my old merchant again this time, but could not carry his
+goods on the _Liberdade_. However, fruits from his orchards and a run
+among the trees refreshed my crew, and prepared them for the coming
+voyage to Barbadoes, which was made with expedition.
+
+From Pernambuco we experienced a strong current in our favour, with,
+sometimes, a confused cross sea that washed over us considerably. But
+the swift current sweeping along through it all made compensation for
+discomforts of motion, though our "ups and downs" were many. Along this
+part of the coast (from Pernambuco to the Amazon), if one day should be
+fine, three stormy ones would follow, but the gale was always fair,
+carrying us forward at a goodly rate.
+
+Along about half way from Cape St. Roque to the Amazon, the wind which
+had been blowing hard for two days, from E.S.E., and raising lively
+waves all about, increased to a gale that knocked up seas, washing over
+the little craft more than ever. The thing was becoming monotonous and
+tiresome; for a change, therefore, I ran in toward the land, so as to
+avoid the ugly cross sea farther out in the current. This course was a
+mistaken one; we had not sailed far on it when a sudden rise of the
+canoe, followed by an unusually long run down on the slope of a roller,
+told us of a danger that we hardly dared to think of, then a mighty
+comber broke, but, as Providence willed, broke short of the canoe, which
+under shortened sail was then scudding very fast.
+
+We were on a shoal, and the sea was breaking from the bottom! The second
+great roller came on, towering up, up, up, until nothing longer could
+support the mountain of water, and it seemed only to pause before its
+fall to take aim and surely gather us up in its sweeping fury.
+
+I put the helm a-lee; there was nothing else to do but this, and say
+prayers. The helm hard down, brought the canoe round, bows to the
+danger, while in breathless anxiety we prepared to meet the result as
+best we could. Before we could say "Save us, or we perish," the sea
+broke over with terrific force and passed on, leaving us trembling in
+His hand, more palpably helpless than ever before. Other great waves
+came madly on, leaping toward destruction; how they bellowed over the
+shoal! I could smell the slimy bottom of the sea, when they broke! I
+could taste the salty sand!
+
+In this perilous situation, buried sometimes in the foaming breakers,
+and at times tossed like a reed on the crest of the waves, we struggled
+with might and main at the helm and the sheets, easing her up or forcing
+her ahead with care, gaining little by little toward deep water, till at
+last she came out of the danger, shook her feathers like a sea-bird, and
+rode on waves less perilous. Then we had time and courage to look back,
+but not till then.
+
+And what a sight we beheld! The horizon was illumined with
+phosphorescent light from the breakers just passed through. The
+rainstorm which had obscured the coast was so cleared away now that we
+could see the whole field of danger behind us. One spot in particular,
+the place where the breakers dashed over a rock which appeared awash, in
+the glare flashed up a shaft of light that reached to the heavens.
+
+This was the greatest danger we had yet encountered. The elasticity of
+our canoe, not its bulk, saved it from destruction. Her light, springy
+timbers and buoyant bamboo guards brought her upright again and again
+through the fierce breakers. We were astonished at the feats of wonder
+of our brave little craft.
+
+Fatigued and worn with anxiety, when clear of the shoal we hauled to
+under close reefs, heading off shore, and all hands lay down to rest
+till daylight. Then, squaring away again, we set what sail the canoe
+could carry, scudding before it, for the wind was still in our favour,
+though blowing very hard. Nevertheless the weather seemed fine and
+pleasant at this stage of our own pleased feelings. Any weather that
+one's craft can live in, after escaping a lee shore, is pleasant
+weather--though some may be pleasanter than other.
+
+What we most wished for, after this thrilling experience, was sea room,
+fair wind, and plenty of it. That these without stint would suit us
+best, was agreed on all hands. Accordingly then I shaped the course
+seaward, clearing well all the dangers of the land.
+
+The fierce tropical storm of the last few days turned gradually into
+mild trade-winds, and our cedar canoe skipped nimbly once more over
+tranquil seas. Our own agitation, too, had gone down and we sailed on
+unruffled by care. Gentle winds carried us on over kindly waves, and we
+were fain to count fair days ahead, leaving all thoughts of stormy ones
+behind. In this hopeful mood we sailed for many days, our spirits never
+lowering, but often rising higher out of the miserable condition which
+we had fallen into through misfortunes on the foreign shore. When a star
+came out, it came as a friend, and one that had been seen by friends of
+old. When all the stars shone out, the hour at sea was cheerful, bright,
+and joyous. Welby saw, or had in the mind's-eye, a day like many that we
+experienced in the soft, clear "trades" on this voyage, when writing the
+pretty lines:--
+
+
+     The twilight hours like birds flew by,
+       As lightly and as free,
+     Ten thousand stars were in the sky,
+       Ten thousand on the sea.
+
+     For every rippling, dancing wave,
+       That leaped upon the air,
+     Had caught a star in its embrace,
+       And held it trembling there.
+
+
+"The days pass, and our ship flies fast upon her way."
+
+For several days while sailing near the line we saw the constellations
+of both hemispheres, but heading north, we left those of the south at
+last, with the Southern Cross--most beautiful in all the heavens--to
+watch over a friend.
+
+Leaving these familiar southern stars and sailing toward constellations
+in the north, we hoist all sail to the cheery breeze which carries us
+on.
+
+In this pleasant state of sailing with our friends all about us, we
+stood on and on, never doubting once our pilot or our ship.
+
+A phantom of the stately _Aquidneck_ appeared one night, sweeping by
+with crowning skysails set, that fairly brushed the stars. No apparition
+could have affected us more than the sight of this floating beauty, so
+like the _Aquidneck_, gliding swiftly and quietly by, from her mission
+to some foreign land--she, too, was homeward bound!
+
+This incident of the _Aquidneck's_ ghost, as it appeared to us, passing
+at midnight on the sea, left a pang of lonesomeness for a while.
+
+But a carrier dove came next day, and perched upon the mast, as if to
+tell that we had yet a friend! Welcome harbinger of good! you bring us
+thoughts of angels.
+
+The lovely visitor remained with us two days, off and on, but left for
+good on the third, when we reached away from Avis Island, to which,
+maybe, it was bound. Coming as it did from the east, and flying west
+toward the island when it left, bore out the idea of the lay of sweet
+singer Kingsley's "Last Buccaneer."
+
+
+     If I might but be a sea dove, I'd fly across the main
+     To the pleasant Isle of Avis, to look at it once again.
+
+
+The old Buccaneer, it may have been, but we regarded it as the little
+bird, which most likely it was, that sits up aloft to look out for poor
+"Jack."[6]
+
+A moth, blown to our boat on the ocean, found shelter and a welcome
+there. The dove we secretly worshipped.
+
+With utmost confidence in our little craft, inspired by many thrilling
+events, we now carried sail, blow high, blow low, till at times she
+reeled along with a bone in her mouth quite to the mind of her mariners.
+Thinking one day that she might carry more sail on the mast already
+bending hopefully forward, and acting upon the liberal thought of sail,
+we made a wide mistake, for the mainmast went by the board, under the
+extra press and the foremast tripped over the bows. Then spars, booms,
+and sails swung alongside like the broken wings of a bird, but were
+grappled, however, and brought aboard without much loss of time. The
+broken mast was then secured and strengthened by "fishes" or splints
+after the manner in which doctors fish a broken limb.
+
+Both of the masts were very soon refitted and again made to carry sail,
+all they could stand; and we were again bowling along as before. We made
+that day a hundred and seventy-five miles, one of our best days' work.
+
+I protest here that my wife should not have cried "More sail! more
+sail!" when as it has been seen the canoe had on all the sail that she
+could carry. Nothing further happened to change the usual daily events
+until we reached Barbadoes. Flying-fish on the wing striking our sails,
+at night, often fell on deck, affording us many a toothsome fry. This
+happened daily, while sailing throughout the trade-wind regions. To be
+hit by one of these fish on the wing, which sometimes occurs, is no
+light matter, especially if the blow be on the face, as it may cause a
+bad bruise or even a black eye. The head of the flying-fish being rather
+hard makes it in fact a night slugger to be dreaded. They never come
+aboard in the daylight. The swift darting bill-fish, too, is a danger to
+be avoided in the tropics at night. They are met with mostly in the
+Pacific Ocean; therefore South Sea Islanders are loath to voyage during
+the "bill-fish season."
+
+As to the flight of these fishes, I would estimate that of the
+flying-fish as not exceeding fifteen feet in height, or five hundred
+yards of distance, often not half so much.
+
+Bill-fish, darting like an arrow from a bow, have, fortunately for
+sailors, not the power or do not rise much above the level of the waves,
+and cannot dart further, say, than two hundred and fifty feet,
+according to the day for jumping. Of the many swift fish in the sea, the
+dolphin, perhaps, is the most marvellous. Its oft-told beauty, too, is
+indeed remarkable. A few of these fleet racers were captured, on the
+voyage, but were found tough and rank; notwithstanding some eulogy on
+them by other epicures, we threw the mess away. Those hooked by my crew
+were perhaps the tyrrhena pirates "turned into dolphins" in the days of
+yore.
+
+On the 19th day from Pernambuco, early in the morning, we made Barbadoes
+away in the West. First, the blue, fertile hills, then green fields came
+into view, studded with many white buildings between sentries of giant
+wind-mills as old nearly as the hills. Barbadoes is the most pleasant
+island in the Antilles; to sail round its green fringe of coral sea is
+simply charming. We stood in to the coast, well to windward, sailing
+close in with the breakers so as to take in a view of the whole
+delightful panorama as we sailed along. By noon we rounded the south
+point of the island and shot into Carlysle Bay, completing the run from
+Pernambuco exactly in nineteen days. This was considerably more than an
+hundred miles a day. The true distance being augmented by the circuitous
+route we adopted made it 2,150 miles.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[5] We had the pleasure of meeting this gentleman again on the
+voyage at Barbadoes, again at New London, and finally with delight we
+heard him lecture on his travels, at Newport, and saw there produced on
+the wall the very picture of the _Liberdade_ taken by the doctor on the
+great ocean.
+
+[6]
+
+     There's a sweet little cherub that sits up aloft,
+     To look out for a berth for poor Jack.--_Dibdin's Poems._
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XV
+
+     At Barbadoes--Mayaguez--Crossing the Bahama Banks--The Gulf
+     Stream--Arrival on the coast of South Carolina.
+
+
+Many old friends and acquaintances came down to see us upon our arrival
+at Barbadoes, all curious to inspect the strange craft. While there our
+old friend, the _Palmer_, that we left at Bahia, came in to refit,
+having broken a mast "trying to beat us," so Garfield would have it. For
+all that we had beaten her by four days. Who then shall say that we
+anchored nights or spent much time hugging the shore? The _Condor_ was
+also at Barbadoes in charge of an old friend, accompanied by a pleasant
+helpmeet and companion who had shared the perils of shipwreck with her
+husband the year before in a hurricane among the islands.
+
+Meeting so many of this class of old friends of vast and varied
+experiences gave contentment to our visit, and we concluded to remain
+over at this port till the hurricane season should pass. Our old friend,
+the _Finance_, too, came in, remaining but a few hours. However, she
+hurried away with her mails, homeward bound.
+
+The pleasant days at Barbadoes with its enchantment flew lightly by; and
+on the 7th of October we sailed, giving the hurricane season the benefit
+of eight days. The season is considered over on the 15th of that month.
+
+Passing thence through the Antilles into the Caribbean Sea, a new period
+of our voyage was begun. Fair breezes filled the sails of the
+_Liberdade_ as we glided along over tranquil seas, scanning eagerly the
+islands as they came into view, dwelling on each, in our thoughts, as
+hallowed ground of the illustrious discoverers--the same now as seen by
+them! The birds, too, of "rare plumage," were there, flying from island
+to island, the same as seen by the discoverers; and the sea with fishes
+teemed, of every gorgeous hue, lending enchantment to the picture, not
+less beautiful than the splendour on the land and in the air to thrill
+the voyager now, the same as then; we ourselves had only to look to see
+them.
+
+Whether it was birds with fins, or fishes with wings, or neither of
+these that the old voyagers saw, they discovered yet enough to make them
+wonder and rejoice.
+
+"Mountains of sugar, and rivers of rum and flying-fish, was what I saw,
+mother," said the son on his return from a voyage to these islands.
+"John," said the enraptured mother, "you must be mistaken about the
+fish; now don't lie to me, John. Mountains of sugar, no doubt you saw,
+and even rivers of rum, my boy, but _flying-fish_ could never be."
+
+And yet the _fish_ were there.
+
+Among the islands of great interest which came in view, stretching along
+the Caribbean Sea, was that of Santa Cruz, the island famous for its
+brave, resolute women of days gone by, who, while their husbands were
+away, successfully defended home and happiness against Christian
+invaders, and for that reason were called fierce savages. I would fain
+have brought away some of the earth of the island in memory of those
+brave women. Small as our ship was, we could have afforded room in it
+for a memento thus consecrated; but the trades hauling somewhat to the
+northward so headed us off that we had to forgo the pleasure of landing
+on its shores.
+
+Pushing forward thence, we reached Porto Rico, the nearest land in our
+course from the Island of Brave Women, standing well in with the
+southeast capes. Sailing thence along the whole extent of the south
+coast, in waters as smooth as any mill pond, and past island scenery
+worth the perils of ten voyages to see, we landed, on the 12th of
+October, at Mayaguez in the west of the island, and there shook the
+kinks out of our bones by pleasant walks in tropic shades.
+
+Time, five days from Barbadoes; distance 570 miles.
+
+This was to be our last run among the trees in the West Indies, and we
+made the most of it. "Such a port for mariners I'll never see again!"
+The port officials, kind and polite, extended all becoming courtesies to
+the quaint "_barco piquina_."
+
+The American Consul, Mr. Christie, Danish Consul, Mr. Falby, and the
+good French Consul, vied in making our visit a pleasant one.
+
+Photographers at Mayaguez desiring a picture of the canoe with the crew
+on deck at a time when we felt inclined to rest in the shade on shore,
+put a negro on board to take the place of captain. The photographs taken
+then found their way to Paris and Madrid journals where, along with some
+flattering accounts, they were published, upon which it was remarked
+that the captain was a fine-looking fellow, but "awfully tanned!" The
+moke was rigged all ataunto for the occasion, and made a picture
+indicative of great physical strength, one not to be ashamed of, but he
+would have looked more like me, I must say, if they had turned him back
+to.
+
+We enjoyed long carriage drives over rich estates at Mayaguez. We saw
+with pain, however, that the atmosphere of the soldier hung over all,
+pervading the whole air like a pestilence.
+
+Musketed and sabred and uniformed in their bed-ticking suits; hated by
+the residents and despised by themselves, they doggedly marched,
+counter-marched and wheeled, knowing that they are loathsome in the
+island, and that their days in the New World are numbered. The sons of
+the colonies are too civil and Christianlike to be ruled always by sword
+and gun.
+
+On the 15th of October, after three days' rest, we took in, as usual
+before sailing from ports, sufficient fresh supplies to carry us to the
+port steered for next, then set sail from pleasant Mayaguez, and bore
+away for the old Bahama Channel, passing east of Hayti, thence along the
+north coast to the west extremity of the island, from which we took
+departure for the head-lands of Cuba, and followed that coast as far as
+Cardinas, where we took a final departure from the islands, regretting
+that we could not sail around them all.
+
+The region on the north side of Cuba is often visited by gales of great
+violence, making this the lee shore; a weather eye was therefore kept
+lifting, especially in the direction of their source, which is from
+north to nor'west. However, storms prevailed from other quarters, mostly
+from the east, bringing heavy squalls of wind, rain and thunder every
+afternoon, such as once heard will never be forgotten. Peal on peal of
+nature's artillery for a few hours, accompanied by vivid lightning, was
+on the cards for each day, then all would be serene again.
+
+The nights following these severe storms were always bright and
+pleasant, and the heavens would be studded with constellations of
+familiar, guiding stars.
+
+My crew had now no wish to bear up for port short of one on our own
+coast, but, impatient to see the North Star appear higher in the
+heavens, strung every nerve and trimmed every sail to hasten on.
+
+Nassau, the place to which letters had been directed to us, we forbore
+to visit. This departure from a programme which was made at the
+beginning was the only change that we made in the "charter party"
+throughout the voyage. There was no haphazard sailing on this voyage.
+Daily observations for determining latitude and longitude were
+invariably made unless the sun was obscured. The result of these
+astronomical observations were more reliable than one might suppose,
+from their being taken on a tittlish canoe. After a few days'
+practising, a very fair off-hand contact could be made, when the canoe
+rose on the crest of a wave, where manifestly would be found the best
+result. The observer's station was simply on the top of the cabin, where
+astride, like riding horseback, Victor and I took the "sights," and
+indeed became expert "snap observers" before the voyage ended.
+
+One night in the Bahama Channel, while booming along toward the Banks to
+the nor'west of us before stiff trades, I was called in the first watch
+by Victor, to come up quickly, for signs of the dread "norther" were in
+the sky. Our trusty barometer had been low, but was now on the cheerful
+side of change. This phenomenon disturbed me somewhat, till the
+discovery was made, as we came nearer, that it was but the reflection of
+the white banks on the sky that we saw, and no cause at all for alarm.
+
+Soon after this phenomenon the faint glimmer of Lobos Light was descried
+flickering on the horizon, two points on the weather bow. I changed the
+course three points to windward, having determined to touch at the small
+Cay where the lighthouse stands; one point being allowed for leeway,
+which I found was not too much.
+
+Three hours later we fetched in under the lee of the reef, or Cay, as it
+is commonly called, and came to in one and a half fathoms of water in
+good shelter.
+
+We beheld then overhead in wonderful beauty what had awed us from the
+distance in the early night--a chart of the illuminating banks marked
+visibly on the heavens.
+
+We furled sails and, setting a light in the rigging, turned in; for it
+lacked three hours yet of daylight. And what an interesting experience
+ours had been in the one short night! By the break of day my crew were
+again astir, preparing to land and fill water at a good landing which we
+now perceived farther around the point to leeward, where the surf was
+moderate.
+
+On the Cay is stored some hundred thousand gallons of rain water in
+cisterns at the base of the iron tower which carries the light; one that
+we saw from the canoe at a distance of fourteen miles.
+
+The keeper of the light, a hardy native of Nassau, when he discovered
+the new arrival at his "island," hoisted the British Board of Trade flag
+on a pole in the centre of this, his little world, then he came forward
+to speak us, thinking at first, he said, that we were shipwrecked
+sailors, which indeed we were, but not in distress, as he had supposed
+when hoisting the flag, which signified assistance for distressed
+seamen. On learning our story, however, he regarded us with grave
+suspicions, and refused water to Victor, who had already landed with
+buckets, telling him that the captain would have to bring his papers
+ashore and report. The mate's report would not be taken. Thus in a
+moment was transformed the friend in need to _governor of an island_.
+This amused me greatly, and I sent back word to my veritable Sancho
+Panza that in my many voyages to islands my mate had attended to the
+customs reports; at which his Excellency chafed considerably, giving the
+gunnels of his trousers a fitful tug up now and then as he paced the
+beach, waiting my compliance with the rules of the island. The governor,
+I perceived, was suspicious of smugglers and wreckers, apparently
+understanding their ways, if, indeed, even he were not a reformed
+pirate himself.
+
+However, to humour the punctiliousness of his Excellency, now that he
+was governor of an island, I placed my papers in my hat, and, leaping
+into the surf, waded ashore, where I was received as by a monarch.
+
+The document I presented was the original _Passe Especial_, the one with
+the big seal on it, written in Portuguese; had it been in Choctàw the
+governor would have read it with the same facility that he did this,
+which he stared at knowingly and said, "all right, take all the water
+you want; it is free."
+
+I lodged a careful report of the voyage with the governor and explained
+to his Excellency the whereabouts of the "Island of Rio," as his grace
+persistently called Rio de Janeiro, whence dated my papers.
+
+Conversing on the subject of islands, which was all the world to him,
+the governor viewed with suspicion the absence of a word in my
+documents, referring even to an islet; this, in his mind, was a
+reprehensible omission; for surely New York, to which the papers
+referred, was built on an island. Upon this I offered to swear to the
+truth of my clearance, "as far as known to me," after the manner of
+cheap custom-house swearing with which shipmasters, in some parts of the
+world, are made familiar. "Not on the island!" quickly exclaimed the
+governor, "'for thou shalt not disglorify God's name,' is written in the
+Bible."
+
+I assured the governor of my appreciation of his pious sentiment of not
+over-swearing,--a laudable plan that even the Chinese adopt as a policy,
+and one that I would speak of on my return home, to the end that we all
+emulate the laws of the island; whereupon the governor, greatly pleased,
+urged me to take some more water, minding me again that it was free.
+
+In a very few minutes I got all the water I wished for; also some aurora
+shells from the governor's lady, who had arisen with the sun to grace
+the day and of all things most appropriate held in her generous lap
+beautiful aurora shells for which--to spoil the poem--I bartered
+cocoa-nuts and rusty gnarly yams.
+
+The lady was on a visit only to her lord and master, the monarch of all
+he surveyed. Beside this was their three children also on a visit, from
+Nassau, and two assistant keepers of the light which made up the total
+of this little world in the ocean.
+
+It was the smallest kingdom I had ever visited, peopled by happy human
+beings and the most isolated by far.
+
+The few blades of grass which had struggled into existence, not enough
+to support a goat, was all there was to look at on the island except the
+lighthouse, and the sand and themselves.
+
+Some small buildings and a flagstaff had once adorned the place, but
+together with a coop of chickens, the only stock of the
+islanders--except a dog--had been swept away by a hurricane which had
+passed over the island a short time before. The water for which we had
+called being now in the canoe, and my people on board waiting for me, I
+bade the worthy governor good-bye, and, saluting his charming island
+queen in a seaman-like manner, hastened back to my own little world; and
+bore away once more for the north. Sailing thence over the Great Bahama
+Banks, in a crystal sea, we observed on the white marl bottom many
+curious living things, among them the conch in its house of exquisite
+tints and polished surface, the star-fish with radiated dome of curious
+construction, and many more denizens of the place, the names of which I
+could not tell, resting on the soft white bed under the sea.
+
+"They who go down to the sea in ships, they see the wonders of the
+Lord," I am reminded by a friend who writes me, on receipt of some of
+these curious things which I secured on the voyage, adding: "For all
+these curious and beautiful things are His handiwork. Who can look at
+such things without the heart being lifted up in adoration?"
+
+For words like these what sailor is there who would not search the caves
+of the ocean? Words too, from a lady.
+
+Two days of brisk sailing over the white Bahama Banks brought us to
+Bimini. Thence a mere push would send us to the coast of our own native
+America. The wind in the meantime hauling from regular nor'east trade to
+the sou'west, as we came up to Bimini, promising a smooth passage
+across, we launched out at once on the great Gulf Stream, and were swept
+along by its restless motion, making on the first day, before the wind
+and current, two hundred and twenty miles. This was great getting along
+for a small canoe. Going at the same high rate of speed on the second
+night in the stream, the canoe struck a spar and went over it with a
+bound. Her keel was shattered by the shock, but finally shaking the
+crippled timber clear of herself she came on quite well without it. No
+other damage was done to our craft, although at times her very ribs were
+threatened before clearing this lively ocean river. In the middle of the
+current, where the seas were yet mountainous but regular, we went along
+with a wide, swinging motion and fared well enough; but on nearing the
+edge of the stream a confused sea was met with, standing all on end, in
+every which way, beyond a sailor's comprehension. The motion of the
+_Liberdade_ was then far from poetical or pleasant. The wind, in the
+meantime, had chopped round to the nor'east, dead ahead; being thus
+against the current, a higher and more confused sea than ever was heaped
+up, giving us some uneasiness. We had, indeed, several unwelcome
+visitors come tumbling aboard of our craft, one of which furiously
+crashing down on her made all of her timbers bend and creak. However, I
+could partially remedy this danger by changing the course.
+
+"Seas like that can't break this boat," said our young boatswain; "she's
+built strong." It was well to find among the crew this feeling of
+assurance in the gallant little vessel. I, too, was confident in her
+seaworthiness. Nevertheless, I shortened sail and brought her to the
+wind, watching the lulls and easing her over the combers, as well as I
+could. But wrathful Neptune was not to let us so easily off, for the
+next moment a sea swept clean over the helmsman, wetting him through to
+the skin and, most unkind cut of all, it put out our fire, and capsized
+the hash and stove into the bottom of the canoe. This left us with but a
+_damper_ for breakfast! Matters mended, however, as the day advanced,
+and for supper we had a grand and glorious feast. Early in the afternoon
+we made the land and got into smooth water. This of itself was a feast,
+to our minds.
+
+The land we now saw lying before us was hills of America, which we had
+sailed many thousands of miles to see. Drawing in with the coast, we
+made out, first the broad, rich forests, then open fields and villages,
+with many signs of comfort on every hand. We found it was the land about
+Bull's Bay on the coast of South Carolina, and night coming on, we could
+plainly see Cape Roman Light to the north of us. The wind falling light
+as we drew in with the coast, and finding a current against us, we
+anchored, about two miles from the shore, in four fathoms of water. It
+was now 8 p.m., October 28, 1888, thirteen days from Mayaguez,
+twenty-one days from Barbadoes, etc.
+
+The following was the actual time at sea and distances in nautical miles
+from point to point on the courses steered, approximately:
+
+
+                           _Days._   _ Distance._
+
+
+From Paranagua to Santos         1        150
+ "   Santos to Rio de Janeiro
+         (towed by _Finance_)    ¾        200
+ "   Rio to Cape Frio            2         70
+ "   Cape Frio to Carvellas      4        370
+ "   Carvellas to Saint Paulo    3        270
+ "   Saint Paulo to Bahia        ½         40
+ "   Bahia to Pernambuco         5        390
+ "   Pernambuco to Barbadoes    19      2,150
+ "   Barbadoes to Mayaguez       5        570
+ "   Mayaguez to Cape Roman     13      1,300
+                                ---     -----
+                                53¼     5,510
+
+
+Computing all the distances of the ins and outs that we made would
+considerably augment the sum. To say, therefore, that the _Liberdade_
+averaged a hundred and three miles a day for fifty-three days would be
+considerably inside the truth.
+
+This was the voyage made in the boat which cost less than a hundred
+dollars outside of our own labour of building. Journals the world over
+have spoken not unkindly of the feat; encomiums in seven languages
+reached us through the newspapers while we lay moored in Washington.
+Should the same good fortune that followed the _Liberdade_ attend this
+little literary craft, when finished, it would go safe into many lands.
+Without looking, however, to this mark of good fortune, the journal of
+the voyage has been as carefully constructed as was the _Liberdade_, and
+I trust, as conscientiously, by a hand, alas! that has grasped the
+sextant more often than the plane or pen, and for the love of doing.
+This apology might have been more appropriately made in the beginning of
+the journal, maybe, but it comes to me now, and like many other things
+done, right or wrong, but done on the impulse of the moment, I put it
+down.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVI
+
+     Ocean Currents--Visit to South Santee--At the Typee
+     River--Quarantined--South Port and Wilmington, N.C.--Inland sailing
+     to Beaufort, Norfolk and Washington, D.C.--Voyage ended.
+
+
+No one will be more surprised at the complete success of the voyage and
+the speedy progress made than were we ourselves who made it.
+
+A factor of the voyage, one that helped us forward greatly, and which is
+worthy of special mention, was the ocean current spoken of as we came
+along in its friendly sway.
+
+Many are the theories among fresh-water philosophists respecting these
+currents, but in practical sailing, where the subject is met with in its
+tangible form, one cause only is recognized; namely, the action of the
+wind on the surface of the water, pushing the waves along. Out on the
+broad ocean the effect at first is hardly perceptible, but the constant
+trades, sending countless millions of waves in one direction, cause at
+last a mighty moving power, which the mariner meets sometimes as an
+enemy to retard and delay, sometimes as a friend, as in our case, to
+help him on his way. These are views from a practical experience with no
+theory to prove.
+
+By daylight on the twenty-ninth, we weighed anchor and set sail again
+for the north. The wind and current were still adverse, but we kept near
+the land, making short boards off and on through the day where the
+current had least effect. And when night came on again we closed in once
+more with Cape Roman light. Next day we worked up under the lee of the
+Roman shoals and made harbour in South Santee, a small river to the
+north of Cape Roman, within range of the light, there to rest until the
+wind should change, it being still ahead.
+
+Next morning, since the wind had not changed, we weighed anchor and
+stood farther into the river looking for inhabitants, that we might
+listen to voices other than our own. Our search was soon rewarded, for,
+coming around a point of woodland, a farmhouse stood before us on the
+river side. We came alongside the bank and jumped ashore, but hardly had
+we landed when, as out of the earth, a thousand dogs, so it seemed,
+sprung up threatening to devour us all. However, a comely woman came out
+of the house and it was explained to the satisfaction of all, especially
+to a persistent cur, by a vigorous whack on the head with a cudgel, that
+our visit was a friendly one; then all was again peaceful and quiet. The
+good man was in the field close by, but soon came home accompanied by
+his two stalwart sons each "toting" a sack of corn. We found the
+Andersons--this was the family name--isolated in every sense of the
+word, and as primitive as heart could wish. The charming simplicity of
+these good people captivated my crew. We met others along the coast
+innocent of greed, but of all unselfish men, Anderson the elder was
+surely the prince.
+
+Purchasing some truck from this good man, we found that change could not
+be made for the dollar which I tendered in payment. But I protested that
+I was more than content to let the few odd cents go, having received
+more garden stuff than I had ever seen offered for a dollar in any part
+of the world. And indeed I was satisfied. The farmer, however, nothing
+content, offered me a coon skin or two, but these I didn't want, and
+there being no other small change about the farm, the matter was
+dropped, I thought, for good, and I had quite forgotten it, when later
+in the evening I was electrified by his offering to carry a letter for
+us which we wished posted, some seven miles away, and call it "square,"
+against the twenty cents of the morning's transaction. The letter went,
+and in due course of time we got an answer.
+
+I do not say that we stuck strictly to the twenty-cent transaction, but
+I fear that not enough was paid to fair-dealing Anderson. However, all
+were at last satisfied and warming into conversation, a log fire was
+improvised and social chat went round.
+
+These good people could hardly understand how it was, as I explained,
+that the Brazilians had freed the slaves and had no war, Mr. Anderson
+often exclaiming, "Well, well, I d'clar. Freed the niggers, and had no
+wah. Mister," said he, turning to me after a long pause, "mister, d'ye
+know the South were foolish? They had a wah, and they had to free the
+niggers, too."
+
+"Oh, yes, mister, I was thar! Over thar beyond them oaks was my house."
+
+"Yes, mister, I fought, too, and fought hard, but it warn't no use."
+
+Like many a hard fighter, Anderson, too, was a pious man, living in a
+state of resignation to be envied. His years of experience on the new
+island farm had been hard and trying in the extreme. My own misfortunes
+passed into shade as the harder luck of the Andersons came before my
+mind, and the resolution which I had made to buy a farm was now shaken
+and finally dissolved into doubts of the wisdom of such a course. On
+this farm they had first "started in to raise pork," but found that it
+"didn't pay, for the pigs got wild and had to be gathered with the
+dogs," and by the time they were "gathered and then toted, salt would
+hardly cure them, and they most generally tainted." The enterprise was
+therefore abandoned, for that of tilling the soil, and a crop was put
+in, but "the few pigs which the dogs had not gathered came in at night
+and rooted out all the taters." It then appeared that a fence should be
+built. "Accordingly," said he, "the boys and I made one which kept out
+the stock, but, sir, the rats could get in! They took every tater out of
+the ground! From all that I put in, and my principal work was thar, I
+didn't see a sprout." How it happened that the rats had left the crop
+the year before for their relations--the pigs--was what seemed most to
+bother the farmer's mind. Nevertheless, "there was corn in Egypt yet";
+and at the family circle about the board that night a smile of hope
+played on the good farmer's face, as in deep sincerity he asked that for
+what they had they might be made truly thankful. We learned a lesson of
+patience from this family, and were glad that the wind had carried us to
+their shore.
+
+Said the farmer, "And you came all the way from Brazil in that boat!
+Wife, she won't go to Georgetown in the batto that I built because it
+rares too much. And they freed the niggers and had no wah! Well, well, I
+d'clar!"
+
+Better folks we may never see than the farmers of South Santee. Bidding
+them good-bye next morning at early dawn we sailed before a light land
+wind which, however, soon petered out.
+
+The S.S. _Planter_ then coming along took us in tow for Georgetown,
+where she was bound. We had not the pleasure, however, of visiting the
+beloved old city; for having some half dozen cocoa-nuts on board, the
+remainder of small stores of the voyage, a vigilant officer stopped us
+at the quarantine ground. Fruit not being admitted into South Carolina
+until after the first of November, and although it was now late in the
+afternoon of the first, we had to ride quarantine that night, with a
+promise, however, of _pratique_ next morning. But there was no steamer
+going up the river the next day. The _Planter_ coming down though
+supplied us with some small provisions, such as were not procurable at
+the Santee farm. Then putting to sea we beat along slowly against wind
+and current.
+
+We began now to experience, as might be expected, autumn gales of
+considerable violence, the heaviest of which overtaking us at Frying-pan
+Shoal, drove us back to leeward of Cape Fear for shelter. South Port and
+Wilmington being then so near we determined to visit both places. Two
+weeks at these ports refreshed the crew and made all hands willing for
+sea again.
+
+Sailing thence through Corn-cake Inlet we cut off Cape Fear and the
+Frying-pan Shoals, being of mind to make for the inlets along the
+Carolina coast and to get into the inland waters as soon as practicable.
+
+It was our good fortune to fall in with an old and able pilot at
+Corn-cake Inlet, one Capt. Bloodgood, who led the way through the
+channel in his schooner, the _Packet_, a Carolina pitch and cotton
+droger of forty tons register, which was manned solely by the captain
+and his two sons, one twelve and the other ten years old. It was in the
+crew that I became most interested, and not the schooner. Bloodgood gave
+the order when the tide served for us to put to sea. "Come, children,"
+said he, "let's try it." Then we all tried it together, the _Packet_
+leading the way. The shaky west wind, that filled our sails as we
+skimmed along the beach with the breakers close aboard, carried us but a
+few leagues when it flew suddenly round to nor'east and began to pipe.
+
+The gale increasing rapidly inclined me to bear up for New River Inlet,
+then close under our lee, with a treacherous bar lying in front, which
+to cross safely would require great care.
+
+But the gale was threatening, and the harbour inside, we could see, was
+smooth; then, too, cried my people: "Any port in a storm." I decided
+prompt; put the helm up and squared away. Flying thence, before it, the
+tempest-tossed canoe came sweeping in from sea over the rollers in a
+delightfully thrilling way. One breaker only coming over us, and even
+that did no harm more than to give us all the climax soaking of the
+voyage. This was the last sea that broke over the canoe on the memorable
+voyage.
+
+The harbour inside the bar of New River was good. Adding much to our
+comfort too was fish and game in abundance.
+
+The _Packet_, which had parted from us, made her destined port some
+three leagues farther on. The last we saw of the children, they were at
+the main sheets hauling aft, and their father was at the helm, and all
+were flying through the mist like fearless sailors.
+
+After meeting Carolina seamen, to say nothing of the few still in
+existence further north, I challenge the story of Greek supremacy.
+
+The little town of South Port was made up almost entirely of pilots
+possessing, I am sure, every quality of the sailor and the gentleman.
+
+Moored snug in the inlet, it was pleasant to listen to the roar of the
+breakers on the bar, but not so cheerful was the thought of facing the
+high waves seaward. Therefore the plan suggested itself of sufficiently
+deepening a ditch that led through the marshes from New River to Bogue
+Sound, to let us through; thence we could sail inland the rest of the
+voyage without obstruction or hindrance of any kind. To this end we set
+about contrivances to heave the canoe over the shoals, and borrowed a
+shovel from a friendly schooner captain to deepen the ditch which we
+thought would be necessary to do in order to ford her along that way.
+However, the prevailing nor'east gales had so raised the water in the
+west end of the sound as to fill all the creeks and ditches to
+overflowing. I hesitated then no longer, but heading for the ditch
+through the marshes on a high tide, before a brave west wind took the
+chances of getting through by hook or by crook or by shovel and spade if
+required.
+
+The "Coast Pilot," in speaking of this place, says there is never more
+than a foot of water there, and even that much is rarely found. The
+_Liberdade_ essayed the ditch, drawing two feet and four inches, thus
+showing the further good fortune or luck which followed perseverance, as
+it usually does, though sometimes, maybe, it is bad luck! Perhaps I am
+not lucid on this, which at best must remain a disputed point.
+
+I was getting lost in the maze of sloughs and creeks, which as soon as I
+entered seemed to lead in every direction but the right one. Hailing a
+hunter near by, however, I was soon put straight and reassured of
+success. The most astonished man, though, in North Carolina, was this
+same hunter when asked if he knew the ditch that led through where I
+wished to go.
+
+"Why, stranger," said he, "my gran'ther digged that ditch."
+
+I jumped, I leaped! at thought of what a pilot this man would be.
+
+"Well, stranger," said he, in reply to my query, "stranger, if any man
+kin take y' thro' that ditch, why, I kin"; adding doubtfully, however,
+"I have not hearn tell befo' of a vessel from Brazil sailing through
+these parts; but then you mout get through, and again ye moutent. Well,
+it's jist here; you mout and you moutent."
+
+A bargain was quickly made, and my pilot came aboard, armed with a long
+gun, which as we sailed along proved a terror to ducks. The entrance to
+the ditch, then close by, was made with a flowing sheet, and I soon
+found that my pilot knew his business. Rush-swamps and corn-fields we
+left to port and to starboard, and were at times out of sight among
+brakes that brushed crackling along the sides of the canoe, as she swept
+briskly through the narrows, passing them all, with many a close hug,
+though, on all sides. At a point well on in the crooked channel my pilot
+threw up his hat, and shouted, with all his might:
+
+"Yer trouble is over! Swan to gosh if it ain't! And ye come all the way
+from Brazil, and come through gran'ther's ditch! Well, I d'clar!"
+
+From this I concluded that we had cleared all the doubtful places, and
+so it turned out. Before sundown my pilot was looking for the change of
+a five-dollar-piece; and we of the _Liberdade_ sat before a pot-pie, at
+twilight, the like of which on the whole voyage had not been tasted,
+from sea fowl laid about by our pilot while sailing through the meadows
+and marshes. And the pilot himself, returning while the pot-pie was yet
+steaming hot, declared it "ahead of coon."
+
+A pleasant sail was this through the ditch that gran'ther dug. At the
+camp fire that night, where we hauled up by a fishing station, thirty
+stalwart men talked over the adventures of their lives. My pilot, the
+best speaker, kept the camp in roars. As for myself, always fond of
+mirth, I got up from the fire sore from laughing. Their curious
+adventures with coons and 'gators recounted had been considerable.
+
+Many startling stories were told. But frequently reverting to the voyage
+of the _Liberdade_, they declared with one voice that "it was the
+greatest thing since the wah." I took this as a kind of complimentary
+hospitality. "When she struck on a sand reef," said the pilot, "why, the
+captain he jumped right overboard and the son he jumped right over, too,
+to tote her over, and the captain's wife she holp."
+
+By daylight next morning we sailed from this camp pleasant, and on the
+following day, November 28, at noon, arrived at Beaufort.
+
+Mayor Bell of that city and many of his townfolk met us at the wharf,
+and gave me as well as my sea-tossed crew a welcome to their shores,
+such as to make us feel that the country was partly ours.
+
+"Welcome, welcome home," said the good mayor; "we have read of your
+adventures, and watched your progress as reported from time to time,
+with deep interest and sympathy."
+
+So we began to learn now that prayers on shore had gone up for the
+little canoe at sea. This was indeed America and home, for which we had
+longed while thousands of miles across the ocean.
+
+From Beaufort to Norfolk and thence to Washington was pleasant inland
+sailing, with prevailing fair winds and smooth sea. Christmas was spent
+on the Chesapeake--a fine, enjoyable day it was! with not a white-cap
+ripple on the bay. Ducks swimming ahead of the canoe as she moved
+quietly along were loath to take wing in so light a breeze, but flapping
+away, half paddling and half flying, as we came toward them, they
+managed to keep a long gun-shot off; but having laid in at the last port
+a turkey of no mean proportions, which we made shift to roast in the
+"caboose" aboard, we could look at a duck without wishing its
+destruction. With this turkey and a bountiful plum duff, we made out a
+dinner even on the _Liberdade_.
+
+Of the many Christmas days that come crowding in my recollections now;
+days spent on the sea and in foreign lands, as falls to the lot of
+sailors--which was the merriest it would be hard to say. Of this,
+however, I am certain, that the one on board the _Liberdade_ on the
+Chesapeake was not the least happy of them all.
+
+The day following Christmas found us on the Potomac, enjoying the same
+fine weather and abundant good cheer of the day before. Fair winds
+carried us through all the reaches of the river, and the same prosperity
+which attended our little bark in the beginning of the voyage through
+tempestuous weather followed her to the end of the voyage, which
+terminated in mild days and pleasant sunshine.
+
+On the 27th of December, 1888, a south wind bore us into harbour at
+Washington, D.C., there we moored for the winter, furled our sails and
+coiled up the ropes, after a voyage of joys and sorrows, crowned with
+pleasures, however, which lessened the pain of past regrets.
+
+Having moored the _Liberdade_ and weather-bitted her cables, it remains
+only to be said that after bringing us safely through the dangers of a
+tropical voyage, clearing reefs, shoals, breakers, and all storms
+without a serious accident of any kind, we learned to love the little
+canoe as well as anything could be loved that is made by hands.
+
+To say that we had not a moment of ill-health on the voyage would not
+tell the whole story.
+
+My wife, brave enough to face the worst storms, as women are sometimes
+known to do on sea and on land, enjoyed not only the best of health, but
+had gained a richer complexion.
+
+Victor, at the end of the voyage, found that he had grown an inch and
+had not been frightened out of his boots.
+
+Little Garfield--well he had grown some, too, and continued to be a
+pretty good boy and had managed to hold his grip through many ups and
+downs. He it was who stood by the bow line to make fast as quick as the
+_Liberdade_ came to the pier at the end of the voyage.
+
+And I, last, as it should be, lost a few pounds' weight, but like the
+rest landed in perfect health; taking it altogether, therefore, only
+pleasant recollections of the voyage remain with us who made it.
+
+With all its vicissitudes I still love a life on the broad, free ocean,
+never regretting the choice of my profession.
+
+However, the time has come to debark from the _Liberdade_, now breasted
+to the pier where I leave her for a time; for my people are landed safe
+in port.
+
+
+
+
+DISPOSAL OF THE LIBERDADE
+
+About the middle of April the _Liberdade_ cast loose her moorings from
+the dock at Washington, and spreading sail before a brave west wind,
+bent her course along down the Potomac with the same facility as
+experienced in December coming up before a wind from the South; then
+shaping her course for New York via Baltimore and Philadelphia through
+inland passages, the voyage was turned into a pleasure excursion.
+Animation of spring clothed the landscape on all sides in its greatest
+beauty; and our northern forest the voyagers found upon their return was
+not less charming than "tropic shade" of foreign climes. And the robin
+sang even a sweeter trill than ever before heard by the crew, for they
+listened to it now in the country that they loved.
+
+From New York, the _Liberdade_ sailed for Boston via New London, New
+Bedford, Martha's Vineyard, Newport, and Taunton, at which latter place
+she hauled out, and the crew, thence to the Bay State Capital, enjoyed
+the novelty of a "sail over land."
+
+Then the _Liberdade_ moored snug in Boston and her crew spent the winter
+again among friends. They met here during this time the man who advised
+the captain at Buenos Aires to pitch the _Aquidneck's_ cargo of hay into
+the sea; for not taking the advice--witness, alas! the captain's plight!
+
+Finally, upon return of spring, the _Liberdade_ was refitted on a voyage
+retracing her course to Washington, where, following safe arrival, she
+will end her days in the Smithsonian Institution; a haven of honour that
+many will be glad to know she has won.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's Voyage of the Liberdade, by Captain Joshua Slocum
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+      The Project Gutenberg eBook of Voyage Of The Liberdade, by Captain Joshua Slocum.
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+<pre>
+
+Project Gutenberg's Voyage of the Liberdade, by Captain Joshua Slocum
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Voyage of the Liberdade
+
+Author: Captain Joshua Slocum
+
+Release Date: June 9, 2006 [EBook #18541]
+[Last updated: February 6, 2021]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK VOYAGE OF THE LIBERDADE ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by David Garcia, Martin Pettit and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
+
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+
+
+
+<h1>VOYAGE OF THE LIBERDADE</h1>
+
+<h2>Captain Joshua Slocum</h2>
+
+<p class='tbrk'>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<h4>Robinson &amp; Stephenson Boston 1890</h4>
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_v" id="Page_v">[Pg v]</a></span></p>
+<h2>CONTENTS</h2>
+
+<h3><a href="#GREETING">GREETING</a></h3>
+
+<h3><a href="#CHAPTER_I">CHAPTER I</a></h3>
+
+<p>The ship&mdash;The crew&mdash;A hurricane&mdash;Cape Verde Islands&mdash;Frio&mdash;A <i>pampeiro</i>.</p>
+
+<h3><a href="#CHAPTER_II">CHAPTER II</a></h3>
+
+<p>Montevideo&mdash;Beggars&mdash;Antonina for mat&eacute;&mdash;Antonina to Buenos Aires&mdash;The
+<i>bombelia</i>.</p>
+
+<h3><a href="#CHAPTER_III">CHAPTER III</a></h3>
+
+<p>Salvage of a cargo of wine&mdash;Sailors happy&mdash;Cholera in the
+Argentine&mdash;Death in the land&mdash;Dutch Harry&mdash;Pete the Greek&mdash;Noted
+crimps&mdash;Boat lost&mdash;Sail for Ilha Grande&mdash;Expelled from the port&mdash;Serious
+hardships.</p>
+
+<h3><a href="#CHAPTER_IV">CHAPTER IV</a></h3>
+
+<p>Ilha Grande decree&mdash;Return to Rosario&mdash;Waiting opening of the Brazilian
+ports&mdash;Scarcity of sailors&mdash;Buccaneers turned pilots&mdash;Sail down the
+river&mdash;Arrive at Ilha Grande the second time&mdash;Quarantined and
+fumigated&mdash;Admitted to <i>pratique</i>&mdash;Sail for Rio&mdash;Again challenged&mdash;Rio
+at last.</p>
+
+<h3><a href="#CHAPTER_V">CHAPTER V</a></h3>
+
+<p>At Rio&mdash;Sail for Antonina with mixed cargo&mdash;A <i>pampeiro</i>&mdash;Ship on
+beam-ends&mdash;Cargo still more mixed&mdash;Topgallant-masts carried away&mdash;Arrive
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_vi" id="Page_vi">[Pg vi]</a></span>safely at Antonina.</p>
+
+<h3><a href="#CHAPTER_VI">CHAPTER VI</a></h3>
+
+<p>Mutiny&mdash;Attempt at robbery and murder&mdash;Four against one&mdash;Two go down
+before a rifle&mdash;Order restored.</p>
+
+<h3><a href="#CHAPTER_VII">CHAPTER VII</a></h3>
+
+<p>Join the bark at Montevideo&mdash;A good crew&mdash;Small-pox breaks out&mdash;Bear up
+for Maldonado and Floras&mdash;No aid&mdash;Death of sailors&mdash;To Montevideo in
+distress&mdash;Quarantine.</p>
+
+<h3><a href="#CHAPTER_VIII">CHAPTER VIII</a></h3>
+
+<p>A new crew&mdash;Sail for Antonina&mdash;Load timber&mdash;Native canoes&mdash;Loss of the
+<i>Aquidneck</i>.</p>
+
+<h3><a href="#CHAPTER_IX">CHAPTER IX</a></h3>
+
+<p>The building of the <i>Liberdade</i>.</p>
+
+<h3><a href="#CHAPTER_X">CHAPTER X</a></h3>
+
+<p>Across the bar&mdash;The run to Santos&mdash;Tow to Rio by the steamship&mdash;At Rio.</p>
+
+<h3><a href="#CHAPTER_XI">CHAPTER XI</a></h3>
+
+<p>Sail from Rio&mdash;Anchor at Cape Frio&mdash;Encounter with a whale&mdash;Sunken
+treasure&mdash;The schoolmaster&mdash;The merchant&mdash;The good people at the
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_vii" id="Page_vii">[Pg vii]</a></span>village&mdash;A pleasant visit.</p>
+
+<h3><a href="#CHAPTER_XII">CHAPTER XII</a></h3>
+
+<p>Sail from Frio&mdash;Round Cape St. Thorne&mdash;High seas and swift currents&mdash;In
+the "trades"&mdash;Dangerous reefs&mdash;Run into harbour unawares, on a dark and
+stormy night&mdash;At Garavellas&mdash;Fine weather&mdash;A gale&mdash;Port St.
+Paulo&mdash;Treacherous natives&mdash;Sail for Bahia.</p>
+
+<h3><a href="#CHAPTER_XIII">CHAPTER XIII</a></h3>
+
+<p>At Bahia&mdash;Meditations on the discoverers&mdash;The Caribbees.</p>
+
+<h3><a href="#CHAPTER_XIV">CHAPTER XIV</a></h3>
+
+<p>Bahia to Pernambuco&mdash;The meeting of the <i>Finance</i> at sea&mdash;At
+Pernambuco&mdash;Round Cape St. Roque&mdash;A gale&mdash;Breakers&mdash;The stretch to
+Barbadoes&mdash;Flying-fish alighting on deck&mdash;Dismasted&mdash;Arrive at Carlysle
+Bay.</p>
+
+<h3><a href="#CHAPTER_XV">CHAPTER XV</a></h3>
+
+<p>At Barbadoes&mdash;Mayaguez&mdash;Crossing the Bahama Banks&mdash;The Gulf
+Stream&mdash;Arrival on the coast of South Carolina.</p>
+
+<h3><a href="#CHAPTER_XVI">CHAPTER XVI</a></h3>
+
+<p>Ocean Currents&mdash;Visit to South Santee&mdash;At the Typee
+River&mdash;Quarantined&mdash;South Port and Wilmington, N.C.&mdash;Inland sailing to
+Beaufort, Norfolk and Washington, D.C.&mdash;Voyage ended.</p>
+
+<h3><a href="#DISPOSAL_OF_THE_LIBERDADE">DISPOSAL OF THE LIBERDADE</a></h3>
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_viii" id="Page_viii">[Pg viii]</a></span></p>
+<h2>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS</h2>
+
+<h3 class='left'><a href="#illust-052.png">Diagram of the <i>Liberdade</i></a></h3>
+
+<h3 class='left'><a href="#illust-062.png">The <i>Liberdade</i></a></h3>
+
+<h2>MAP</h2>
+
+<h3 class='left'><a href="#illust-069.png">Course of the <i>Liberdade</i> from Paranagua to Barbadoes</a></h3>
+
+<hr />
+<h2><a name="GREETING" id="GREETING"></a>GREETING</h2>
+
+<p>This literary craft of mine, in its native model and rig, goes out laden
+with the facts of the strange happenings on a home afloat. Her
+constructor, a sailor for many years, could have put a whole cargo of
+salt, so to speak, in the little packet; but would not so wantonly
+intrude on this domain of longshore navigators. Could the author and
+constructor but box-haul, club-haul, tops'l-haul, and catharpin like the
+briny sailors of the strand, ah me!&mdash;and hope to be forgiven!</p>
+
+<p>Be the current against us, what matters it? Be it in our favour, we are
+carried hence, to what place or for what purpose? Our plan of the whole
+voyage is so insignificant that it matters little, maybe, whither we go,
+for the "grace of a day" is the same! Is it not a recognition of this
+which makes the old sailor happy, though in the storm; and hopeful even
+on a plank in mid-ocean? Surely it is this! for the spiritual beauty of
+the sea, absorbing man's soul, permits of no infidels on its boundless
+expanse.</p>
+
+<p class='right'><span class="smcap">The Author.</span></p>
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[Pg 1]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_I" id="CHAPTER_I"></a>CHAPTER I</h2>
+
+<blockquote><p>The ship&mdash;The crew&mdash;A hurricane&mdash;Cape Verde Islands&mdash;Frio&mdash;A
+<i>pampeiro</i>.</p></blockquote>
+
+<p>To get underweigh: It was on the 28th of February 1886, that the bark
+<i>Aquidneck</i>, laden with case-oil, sailed from New York for Montevideo,
+the capital of Uruguay, the strip of land bounding the River Plate on
+the east, and called by the natives "Banda Oriental." The <i>Aquidneck</i>
+was a trim and tidy craft of 326 tons' register, hailing from Baltimore,
+the port noted for clippers, and being herself high famed above them all
+for swift sailing, she had won admiration on many seas.</p>
+
+<p>Her crew mustered ten, all told; twelve had been the complement, when
+freights were good. There were, beside the crew with regular stations, a
+little lad, aged about six years, and his mamma (age immaterial),
+privileged above the rest, having "all nights in"&mdash;that is, not having
+to stand watch. The mate, Victor, who is to see many adventures before
+reaching New York again, was born and bred on shipboard. He was in
+perfect health, and as strong as a windlass. When he first saw the light
+and began to give orders, he was at San Francisco on the packet
+<i>Constitution</i>, the vessel lost in the tempest at Samoa, just before the
+great naval disaster at the same place in the year of 1889. Garfield,
+the little lad above mentioned, Victor's brother, in this family ship,
+was born in Hong Kong harbour, in the old bark <i>Amethyst</i>, a bona-fide
+American citizen, though first seeing the light in a foreign port, the
+Stars and Stripes standing sponsors for his nationality. This bark had<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">[Pg 2]</a></span>
+braved the wind and waves for fifty-eight years, but had not, up to that
+date, so far as I know, experienced so lively a breeze as the one which
+sprung up about her old timbers on that eventful 3rd of March, 1880.</p>
+
+<p>Our foremast hands on the <i>Aquidneck</i>, six in number, were from as many
+nations, strangers to me and strangers to each other; but the cook, a
+negro, was a native American&mdash;to the manner born. To have even so many
+Americans in one ship was considered exceptional.</p>
+
+<p>Much or little as matters this family history and description of the
+crew: the day of our sailing was bitter-cold and stormy, boding no good
+for the coming voyage, which was to be, indeed, the most eventful of my
+life of more than five-and-thirty years at sea. Studying the morning
+weather report, before sailing, we saw predicted a gale from the
+nor'west, and one also approaching from the sou'west at the same time.
+"The prospect," said the New York papers, "is not encouraging." We were
+anxious, however, to commence the voyage, having a crew on board, and,
+being all ready, we boldly sailed, somewhat against our better judgment.
+The nor'wester blowing, at the time, at the rate of forty miles an hour,
+increased to eighty or ninety miles by March 2nd. This hurricane
+continued through March 3rd, and gave us serious concern for the ship
+and all on board.</p>
+
+<p>At New York, on those days, the wind howled from the north, with the
+"storm centre somewhere on the Atlantic," so said the wise seamen of the
+weather bureau, to whom, by the way, the real old salt is indebted, at
+the present day, for information of approaching storms, sometimes days
+ahead. The prognostication was correct, as we can testify, for out on
+the Atlantic our bark could carry only a mere rag of a foresail,
+some<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[Pg 3]</a></span>what larger than a table-cloth, and with this storm-sail she went
+flying before the tempest, all those dark days, with a large "bone in
+her mouth,"<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> making great headway, even under the small sail.
+Mountains of seas swept clean over the bark in their mad race, filling
+her decks full to the top of the bulwarks, and shaking things generally.</p>
+
+<p>Our men were lashed, each one to his station; and all spare spars not
+doubly lashed were washed away, along with other movables that were
+broken and torn from their fastenings by the wild storm.</p>
+
+<p>The cook's galley came in for its share of the damage, the cook himself
+barely escaping serious injury from a sea that went thundering across
+the decks, taking with it doors, windows, galley stove, pots, kettles
+and all, together with the culinary artist; landing the whole wreck in
+the lee scuppers, but, most fortunately, with the professor on top. A
+misfortune like this is always&mdash;felt. It dampens one's feelings, so to
+speak. It means cold food for a time to come, if not even worse fare.</p>
+
+<p>The day following our misfortune, however, was not so bad. In fact, the
+tremendous seas boarding the bark latterly were indications of the good
+change coming, for it meant that her speed had slackened through a lull
+of the gale, allowing the seas to reach her too full and heavy.</p>
+
+<p>More sail was at once crowded on, and still more was set at every stage
+of the abatement of the gale, for the craft should not be lazy when big
+seas race after her. And so on we flew, like a scud, sheeting home sail
+after sail as required, till the 5th of March, when all of her white
+wings were spread, and she fairly "walked the waters like a thing of
+life." There was now wind enough<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[Pg 4]</a></span> for several days, but not too much,
+and our swift-sailing craft laughed at the seas trying to catch her.</p>
+
+<p>Cheerily on we sailed for days and days, pressed by the favouring gale,
+meeting the sun each day a long span earlier, making daily four degrees
+of longitude. It was the time, on these bright days, to forearm with dry
+clothing against future stormy weather. Boxes and bags were brought on
+deck, and drying and patching went on by wholesale in the watch below,
+while the watch on deck bestirred themselves putting the ship in order.
+"Chips," the carpenter, mended the galley; the cook's broken shins were
+plastered up; and in a few days all was well again. And the sailors,
+moving cheerfully about once more in their patched garments of varied
+hues, reminded me of the spotted cape pigeons pecking for a living, the
+pigeons, I imagined, having a better life of the two. A panican of hot
+coffee or tea by sailors called "water bewitched," a sea-biscuit, and
+"bit of salt-horse," had regaled the crew and restored their voices.
+Then "Reuben Ranzo" was heard on the breeze, and the main tack was
+boarded to the tune of "Johnny Boker." Other wondrous songs through the
+night-watch could be heard in keeping with the happy time. Then what
+they would do and what they wouldn't do in the next port was talked of,
+when song and yarn ran out.</p>
+
+<p>Hold fast, shipmate, hold fast and belay! or the crimps of Montevideo
+will wear the new jacket you promise yourself, while you will be off
+Cape Horn, singing "Haul out to leeward," with a wet stocking on your
+neck, and with the same old "lamby" on, that long since was "lamby" only
+in name, the woolly part having given way to a cloth worn much in "Far
+Cathay"; in short, you will dress in dungaree, the same as now, while
+the crimps and landsharks divide your<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[Pg 5]</a></span> scanty earnings, unless you "take
+in the slack" of your feelings, and "make all fast and steady all."</p>
+
+<p>Ten days out, and we were in the northeast "trades"&mdash;porpoises were
+playing under the bows as only porpoises can play; dolphins were racing
+alongside, and flying-fish were all about. This was, indeed, a happy
+change, and like being transported to another world. Our hardships were
+now all forgotten, for "the sea washes off all the woes of men."</p>
+
+<p>One week more of pleasant sailing, all going orderly on board, and Cape
+Verde Islands came in sight. A grand and glorious sight they were! All
+hail, <i>terra firma</i>! It is good to look at you once again! By noon the
+islands were abeam, and the fresh trade-wind in the evening bore us out
+of sight of them before dark.</p>
+
+<p>Most delightful sailing is this large, swinging motion of our bark
+bounding over the waves, with the gale abaft the beam, driving her
+forward till she fairly leaps from billow to billow, as if trying to
+rival her companions, the very flying-fish. Thwarted now by a sea, she
+strikes it with her handsome bows, sending into the light countless
+thousand sprays, that shine like a nimbus of glory. The tread on her
+deck-plank is lighter now, and the little world afloat is gladsome fore
+and aft.</p>
+
+<p>Cape Frio (cold cape) was the next landfall. Upon reaching that point,
+we had crossed the Atlantic twice. The course toward Cape Verde Islands
+had been taken to avail ourselves of a leading wind through the
+south-east trades, the course from the islands to Frio being
+southwesterly. This latter stretch was spanned on an easy bow-line; with
+nothing eventful to record. Thence our course was through variable winds
+to the River Plate, where a <i>pampeiro</i> was experienced that blew "great
+guns," and whistled a hornpipe through the rigging.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[Pg 6]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>These <i>pampeiros</i> (winds from the <i>pampas</i>) usually blow with great
+fury, but give ample warning of their approach: the first sign being a
+spell of unsurpassed fine weather, with small, fleecy clouds floating so
+gently in the sky that one scarcely perceives their movements, yet they
+do move, like an immense herd of sheep grazing undisturbed on the great
+azure field. All this we witnessed, and took into account. Then
+gradually, and without any apparent cause, the clouds began to huddle
+together in large groups; a sign had been given which the elements
+recognized. Next came a flash of fire from behind the accumulating
+masses, then a distant rumbling noise. It was a note of warning, and one
+that no vessel should let pass unheeded. "Clew up, and furl!" was the
+order. To hand all sail when these fierce visitors are out on a frolic
+over the seas, and entertain them under bare poles, is the safest plan,
+unless, indeed, the best storm sails are bent; even then it is safest to
+goose-wing the tops'ls before the gale comes on. Not till the fury of
+the blast is spent does the ship require sail, for it is not till then
+that the sea begins to rise, necessitating sail to steady her.</p>
+
+<p>The first onslaught of the storm, levelling all before it, and sending
+the would-be waves flying across in sheets&mdash;sailor sheets, so to
+speak&mdash;lends a wild and fearful aspect; but there is no dread of a
+lee-shore in the sailor's heart at these times, for the gale is from off
+the land, as indicated by the name it bears.</p>
+
+<p>After the gale was a calm; following which came desirable winds, that
+carried us at last to the port we sought&mdash;Montevideo; where we cast
+anchor on the 5th of May, and made preparations, after the customs'
+visit, for discharging the cargo, which was finally taken into lighters
+from alongside to the piers, and thence to the warehouses, where ends
+the ship's responsibility to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</a></span> the owner of the goods. But not till then
+ceases the ship's liability, or the captain's care of the merchandise
+placed in his trust. Clearly the captain has cares on sea and on land.</p>
+
+<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTE:</h3>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> The white foam at the bows produced by fast sailing is, by
+sailors, called "a bone in her mouth."</p></div>
+</div>
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_II" id="CHAPTER_II"></a>CHAPTER II</h2>
+
+<blockquote><p>Montevideo&mdash;Beggars&mdash;Antonina for mat&eacute;&mdash;Antonina to Buenos
+Aires&mdash;The <i>bombelia</i>.</p></blockquote>
+
+<p>Montevideo, sister city to Buenos Aires, is the fairer of the two to
+look upon from the sea, having a loftier situation, and, like Buenos
+Aires, boasts of many fine mansions, comely women, liberal schools, and
+a cemetery of great splendour.</p>
+
+<p>It is at Montevideo that the "beggar a-horse-back" becomes a verity
+(horses are cheap); galloping up to you the whining beggar will implore
+you, saying: "For the love of Christ, friend, give me a coin to buy
+bread with."</p>
+
+<p>From "the Mont" we went to Antonina, in Brazil, for a cargo of mat&eacute;, a
+sort of tea, which, prepared as a drink, is wholesome and refreshing. It
+is partaken of by the natives in a highly sociable manner, through a
+tube which is thrust into the steaming beverage in a silver urn or a
+calabash, whichever may happen to be at hand when "drouthy neebors
+neebors meet"; then all sip and sip in bliss from the same tube, which
+is passed from mouth to mouth. No matter how many mouths there may be,
+the <i>bombelia</i>, as it is called, must reach them all. It may have to be
+replenished to make the drink go around, and several times, too, when
+the company is large. This is done with but little loss of time. By
+thrusting into the urn or gourd a spoonful of the herb, and two
+spoonfuls of sugar to a pint of water, which is poured, boiling, over
+it, the drink is made. But to give it some fancied extra flavour, a live
+coal (<i>carbo vegetable</i>) is plunged into the potion to the bottom.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</a></span> Then
+it is again passed around, beginning where it left off. Happy is he, if
+a stranger, who gets the first sip at the tube, but the initiated have
+no prejudices. While in that country I frequently joined in the social
+rounds at mat&eacute;, and finally rejoiced in a <i>bombelia</i> of my own.</p>
+
+<p>The people at Antonina (in fact all the people we saw in Brazil) were
+kind, extremely hospitable, and polite; living in thrift generally,
+their wants were but few beyond their resources. The mountain scenery,
+viewed from the harbour of Antonina, is something to gloat over; I have
+seen no place in the world more truly grand and pleasing. The climate,
+too, is perfect and healthy. The only doctor of the place, when we were
+there, wore a coat out at the elbows, for lack of patronage. A desirable
+port is Antonina.</p>
+
+<p>We had musical entertainments on board, at this place. To see the
+display of beautiful white teeth by these Brazilian sweet singers was
+good to the soul of a sea-tossed mariner. One nymph sang for the
+writer's benefit a song at which they all laughed very much. Being in
+native dialect, I did not understand it, but of course laughed with the
+rest, at which they were convulsed; from this, I supposed it to be at my
+expense. I enjoyed that, too, as much, or more, than I would have
+relished <i>areytos</i> in my favour.</p>
+
+<p>With mat&eacute; we came to Buenos Aires, where the process of discharging the
+cargo was the same as at Montevideo&mdash;into lighters. But at Buenos Aires,
+we lay four times the distance from the shore, about four miles.</p>
+
+<p>The herb, or <i>herva mat&eacute;</i>, is packed into barrels, boxes, and into
+bullock-hide sacks, which are sewed up with stout hide thongs. The
+contents, pressed in tightly when the hide is green and elastic, becomes
+as hard as a cannon-ball by the contraction which follows when it dries.
+The first load of the <i>soroes</i>, so-called, that came off<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</a></span> to the bark at
+the port of loading, was espied on the way by little Garfield. Piled in
+the boat, high above the gunwales, the hairy side out, they did look
+odd. "Oh, papa," said he, "here comes a load of cows! Stand by, all
+hands, and take them in."</p>
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_III" id="CHAPTER_III"></a>CHAPTER III</h2>
+
+<blockquote><p>Salvage of a cargo of wine&mdash;Sailors happy&mdash;Cholera in the
+Argentine&mdash;Death in the land&mdash;Dutch Harry&mdash;Pete the Greek&mdash;Noted
+crimps&mdash;Boat lost&mdash;Sail for Ilha Grande&mdash;Expelled from the
+port&mdash;Serious hardships.</p></blockquote>
+
+<p>From Buenos Aires, we proceeded up the River Plate, near the confluence
+of the Parana and Paraguay, to salve a cargo of wine from the stranded
+brig <i>Neovo San Pascual</i>, from Marseilles.</p>
+
+<p>The current of the great river at that point runs constantly seaward,
+becoming almost a sea of itself, and a dangerous one to navigate; hence
+the loss of the <i>San Pascual,</i> and many others before her.</p>
+
+<p>If, like the "Ancient Mariner," we had, any of us, cried, "water, water
+all around, and not a drop to drink," we forgot it now, in this
+bountiful stream. Wine, too, we had without stint. The insurance agent,
+to leave no excuse for tampering with the cargo, rolled out a cask of
+the best, and, like a true Hans Breitmann, "knocked out der bung." Then,
+too, cases were broken in the handling, the contents of which drenched
+their clothes from top to toe, as the sailors carried them away on their
+heads.</p>
+
+<p>The diversity of a sailor's life&mdash;ah me! The experience of Dana and his
+shipmates, for instance, on a sun-burnt coast, carrying dry hides on
+their heads, if not a worse one, may be in store for us, we cried, now
+fairly swimming in luxuries&mdash;water and wine alike free. Although our
+present good luck may be followed by times less cheerful, we preferred
+to count this, we said, as compensation for past misfortunes, marking
+well that "it never rains but it pours."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The cargo of wine in due course was landed at Rosario with but small
+loss, the crew, except in one case, remaining sober enough to help
+navigate even the difficult Parana. But one old sinner, the case I speak
+of, an old Labrador fisherman, became a useless, drunken swab, in spite
+of all we could do. I say "we" for most of the crew were on my side, in
+favour of a fair deal and "regular supplies."</p>
+
+<p>The hold was barred and locked, and every place we could think of, for a
+time, was searched; still Dan kept terribly drunk. At last his mattress
+was turned out, and from it rolled a dozen or more bottles of the best
+liquor. Then there was a row, but all on the part of Dan, who swore blue
+vengeance on the man, if he could but find him out, who had stowed that
+grog in his bunk, "trying to get" him "into trouble"; some of those
+"young fellows would rue it yet!"</p>
+
+<p>The cargo of wine being discharged, I chartered to load alfalfa, packed
+in bales, for Rio. Many deaths had occurred about this time, with
+appalling suddenness; we soon learned that cholera was staring us all in
+the face, and that it was fast spreading through the country, filling
+towns and cities with sickness and death.</p>
+
+<p>Approaching more frightfully near, it carried our pilot over the bar;
+his wife was a widow the day after he brought our bark to the loading
+berth. And the young man who commenced to deliver us the cargo was
+himself measured the day after. His ship had come in!</p>
+
+<p>Many stout men, and many, many women and children succumbed to the
+scourge; yet it was our high privilege to come through the dark cloud
+without losing a loved one, while thousands were cast down with
+bereavements and grief. At one time it appeared that we were in the
+centre of the cloud which zig-zagged its ugly body, serpent-like,
+through districts, poisoning all<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span> that it touched, and leaving death in
+its wake. This was indeed cholera in its most terrible form!</p>
+
+<p>One poor fellow sat at the Widow Lacinas' hotel, bewildered.
+"Forty-eight hours ago," said he, "I sat at my own hearth, with wife and
+three children by my side. Now I am alone in the world! Even my poor
+house, such as it was, is pulled down." This man, I say, had troubles;
+surely was his "house pulled down!"</p>
+
+<p>There was no escaping the poison or keeping it off, except by
+disinfectants, and by keeping the system regular, for it soon spread
+over all the land and the air was full of it. Remedies sold so high that
+many must have perished without the test of medicinal aid to cure their
+disease. A cry went up against unprincipled druggists who were
+over-charging for their drugs, but nothing more was done to check their
+greed. Camphor sold as high as four dollars a pound, and the druggist
+with a few hundred drops of laudanum and as much chlorodyne could travel
+through Europe afterward on the profits of his sales.</p>
+
+<p>It was at Rosario, and at this time, that we buried our young friend,
+Captain Speck, well loved of young and old. His friends did not ask
+whether it was cholera or not that he died of, but performed the last
+act of friendship as became men of heart and feeling. The minister could
+not come that day, but Captain Speck's little friend, Garfield, said:
+"The flags were set for the angels to come and take the Captain to
+Heaven!" Need more be said?</p>
+
+<p>And the flags blew out all day.</p>
+
+<p>Then it became us to erect a memorial slab, and, hardest of all, to
+write to the widow and orphans. This was done in a homely way, but with
+sympathetic, aching hearts away off there in Santa F&egrave;.</p>
+
+<p>Our time at Rosario, after this, was spent in gloomy<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</a></span> days that dragged
+into weeks and months, and our thoughts often wandered from there to a
+happy past. We preferred to dwell away from there and in other climes,
+if only in thought. There was, however, one happy soul among us&mdash;the
+child whose face was a sunbeam in all kinds of weather and at all times,
+happy in his ignorance of the evils that fall to the lot of man.</p>
+
+<p>Our sailing-day from Rosario finally came; and, with a feeling as of
+casting off fetters, the lines were let go, and the bark hauled out into
+the stream, with a full cargo on board; but, instead of sailing for Rio,
+as per charter, she was ordered by the Brazilian consul to Ilha Grande
+(Great Island), the quarantine station of Brazil, some sixty-two miles
+west of Rio, there to be disinfected and to discharge her cargo in
+quarantine.</p>
+
+<p>A new crew was shipped and put aboard, but while I was getting my
+papers, about noon, they stole one of the ship's boats and scurried off
+down the river as fast, no doubt, as they could go. I have not seen them
+or my boat since. They all deserted,&mdash;every mother's son of them!
+taking, beside the boat, a month's advance pay from a Mr. Dutch Harry, a
+sailor boarding-master, who had stolen my inward crew that he might, as
+he boasted afterward, "ship new hands in their places." In view of the
+fact that this vilest of crimps was the loser of the money, I could
+almost forgive the "galoots" for the theft of my boat. (The ship is
+usually responsible for advance wages twenty-four hours after she has
+sailed, providing, too, that the sailors proceed to sea in her.) Seeing,
+moreover, that they were of that stripe, unworthy the name of sailor, my
+vessel was the better without them, by at least what it cost to be rid
+of them, namely, the price of my boat.</p>
+
+<p>However, I will take back what I said about Dutch Harry being the
+"vilest crimp." There came one to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span> Rosario worse than he, one "Pete the
+Greek," who cut off the ears of a rival boarding-master at the Boca,
+threw them into the river, then, making his escape to Rosario, some 180
+miles away, established himself in the business in opposition to the
+Dutchman, whom he "shanghaied" soon after, then "reigned peacefully in
+his stead."</p>
+
+<p>A captain who, like myself, had suffered from the depredations of this
+noted gentry, told me, in great glee, that he saw Harry on a bone-laden
+Italian bark outward bound,&mdash;"even then nearly out of the river." The
+last seen of him by my friend, the captain, was "among the branches,"
+with a rope around his neck&mdash;they hanged him, maybe&mdash;I don't know what
+else the rope was for, or who deserved more to be hanged. The captain
+screamed with delight:&mdash;"he'll get bone soup, at least, for a while,
+instead of Santa F&egrave; good mutton-chops at our expense."</p>
+
+<p>My second crew was furnished by Mr. Pete, before referred to, and on the
+seventeenth of December we set sail from that country of revolutions.
+Things soon dropped into working order, and I found reason to be pleased
+with the change of crew. We glided smoothly along down the river, thence
+wishing never again to see Rosario under the distressing circumstances
+through which she had just passed.</p>
+
+<p>On the following day, while slipping along before a light, rippling
+breeze, a dog was espied out in the current, struggling in the
+whirlpools, which were rather strong, apparently unable to extricate
+himself, and was greatly exhausted. Coming up with him our main-tops'l
+was laid to the mast, and as we ranged by the poor thing, a sailor,
+plunging over the side in a bow-line, bent a rope on to doggy, another
+one hauled him carefully on board, and the rescue was made. He proved<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</a></span>
+to be a fine young retriever, and his intelligent signs of thankfulness
+for his escape from drowning were scarcely less eloquent of gratitude
+than human spoken language.</p>
+
+<p>This pleasant incident happening on a Friday, suggested, of course, the
+name we should give him. His new master, to be sure, was Garfield, who
+at once said, "I guess they won't know me when I get home, with my new
+suit&mdash;and a dog!" The two romped the decks thenceforth, early and late.
+It was good to see them romp, while "Friday" "barkit wi' joy."</p>
+
+<p>Our pets were becoming numerous now, and all seemed happy till a
+stowaway cat one day killed poor little "Pete," our canary. For ten
+years or more we had listened to the notes of this wee bird, in many
+countries and climes. Sweetest of sweet singers, it was buried in the
+great Atlantic at last. A strange cat, a careless steward, and its tiny
+life was ended&mdash;and the tragedy told. This was indeed a great loss to us
+all, and was mourned over,&mdash;almost as the loss of a child.</p>
+
+<p>A book that has been read at sea has a near claim on our friendship, and
+is a thing one is loth to part with, or change, even for a better book.
+But the well-tried friend of many voyages is oh! so hard to part with at
+sea. A resting-place in the solemn sea of sameness&mdash;in the trackless
+ocean, marked only by imaginary lines and circles&mdash;is a cheerless spot
+to look to; yet how many have treasures there!</p>
+
+<p>Returning to the voyage and journal: Our pilot proved incompetent, and
+we narrowly escaped shipwreck in consequence at Martin Garcia Bar, a bad
+spot in the River Plate. A small schooner captain, observing that we
+needlessly followed in his track, and being anything but a sailor in
+principle, wantonly meditated mischief to us. While I was confidently
+trusting to my pilot, and he (the pilot) trusting to the schooner, one<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span>
+that could go over banks where we would strike, what did the scamp do
+but shave close to a dangerous spot, my pilot following faithfully in
+his wake. Then, jumping upon the taffrail of his craft, as we came
+abreast the shoal, he yelled, like a Comanche, to my pilot to: "Port the
+helm!" and what does my mutton-headed jackass do but port hard over! The
+bark, of course, brought up immediately on the ground, as the other had
+planned, seeing which his whole pirate crew&mdash;they could have been little
+less than pirates&mdash;joined in roars of laughter, but sailed on, doing us
+no other harm.</p>
+
+<p>By our utmost exertions the bark was gotten off, not a moment too soon,
+however, for by the time we kedged her into deep water a <i>pampeiro</i> was
+upon us. She rode out the gale safe at anchor, thanks to an active crew.
+Our water tanks and casks were then refilled, having been emptied to
+lighten the bark from her perilous position.</p>
+
+<p>Next evening the storm went down, and by mutual consent our mud-pilot
+left, taking passage in a passing river-craft, with his pay and our best
+advice, which was to ship in a dredging-machine, where his capabilities
+would be appreciated.</p>
+
+<p>Then, "paddling our own canoe," without further accident we reached the
+light-ship, passing it on Christmas Day. Clearing thence, before night,
+English Bank and all other dangers of the land, we set our course for
+Ilha Grande, the wind being fair. Then a sigh of relief was breathed by
+all on board. If ever "old briny" was welcomed, it was on that Christmas
+Day.</p>
+
+<p>Nothing further of interest occurred on the voyage to Brazil, except the
+death of the little bird already spoken of, which loss deeply affected
+us all.</p>
+
+<p>We arrived at Ilha Grande, our destination, on the 7th day of January,
+1887, and came to anchor in nine<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</a></span> fathoms of water, at about noon,
+within musket-range of the guard-ship, and within speaking distance of
+several vessels riding quarantine, with more or less communication going
+on among them all, through flags. Several ships, chafing under the
+restraint of quarantine, were "firing signals" at the guard-ship. One
+Scandinavian, I remember, asked if he might be permitted to communicate
+by <i>cable</i> with his owners in Christiana. The guard gave him, as the
+Irishman said, "an evasive answer," so the cablegram, I suppose, laid
+over. Another wanted police assistance; a third wished to know if he
+could get fresh provisions&mdash;ten milreis' ($5) worth (he was a
+German)&mdash;naming a dozen or more articles that he wished for, "and <i>the
+balance in onions</i>!" Altogether, the young fellows on the guard-ship
+were having, one might say, a signal practice.</p>
+
+<p>On the next day, January 8th, the officers of the port came alongside in
+a steam-launch, and ordered us to leave, saying the port had been closed
+that morning. "But we have made the voyage," I said. "No matter," said
+the guard, "leave at once you must, or the guard-ship will fire into
+you." This, I submit, was harsh and arbitrary treatment. A thunderbolt
+from a clear sky could not have surprised us more or worked us much
+greater harm&mdash;to be ruined in business or struck by lightning, being
+equally bad!</p>
+
+<p>Then pointing something like a gun, Dom Pedro said, said he, "<i>Vaya
+Homem</i>" (hence, begone), "Or you'll give us cholera." So back we had to
+go, all the way to Rosario, with that load of hay&mdash;and trouble. But on
+our arrival there we found things better than they were when we sailed.
+The cholera had ceased&mdash;it was on the wane when we sailed from Rosario,
+and there was hardly a case of the dread disease in the whole country
+east of Cordova when we returned. That was,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</a></span> indeed, a comfort, but it
+left our hardship the same, and led, consequently, to the total loss of
+the vessel after dragging us through harrowing trials and losses, as
+will be seen by subsequent events.</p>
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_IV" id="CHAPTER_IV"></a>CHAPTER IV</h2>
+
+<blockquote><p>Ilha Grande decree&mdash;Return to Rosario&mdash;Waiting opening of the
+Brazilian ports&mdash;Scarcity of sailors&mdash;Buccaneers turned
+pilots&mdash;Sail down the river&mdash;Arrive at Ilha Grande the second
+time&mdash;Quarantined and fumigated&mdash;Admitted to <i>pratique</i>&mdash;Sail for
+Rio&mdash;Again challenged&mdash;Rio at last.</p></blockquote>
+
+<p>This Ilha Grande decree, really a political movement, brought great
+hardships on us, notwithstanding that it was merely intended by the
+Brazilians as retaliation for past offences by their Argentine
+neighbours; not only for quarantines against Rio fevers, but for a
+discriminating duty as well on sugar from the empire; a combination of
+hardships on commerce&mdash;more than the sensitive Brazilians could
+stand&mdash;so chafing them that a retaliation fever sprung up reaching more
+than the heat of <i>febre marello</i>, and they decided to teach their
+republican cousins a wholesome lesson. However, their wish was to
+retaliate without causing war, and it was done. In fact, closing ports
+as they did at the beginning of Argentine's most valuable season of
+exports to Brazil, and with the plausible excuse, namely fear of pain in
+the stomach, so filled the Argentines with admiration of their equals in
+strategy that they on the earliest opportunity proclaimed two public
+holidays in honour of bright Brazil. So the matter of difference ended,
+to the delight of all&mdash;in fire-crackers and champagne!</p>
+
+<p>To the delight of all except the owner and crew of the <i>Aquidneck</i>. For
+our bark there was no way but to return where the cargo came from, at a
+ruinous loss, too, of time and money. We called at the first open port<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span>
+and wired to the owner of the cargo, but got no answer. Thence we sailed
+to Buenos Aires, where I telegraphed again for instructions. The
+officers of the guard-ship, upon receiving my report from Brazil, were
+convulsed with laughter, while I&mdash;&mdash;I confess it&mdash;could not see the
+joke. After waiting two days, this diplomatic reply came from the owner
+of the cargo: "Act as the case may require." Upon this matter I had
+several opinions. One person suggested that the case required me to
+pitch the whole cargo into the sea! This friend, I may mention, was from
+Boston.</p>
+
+<p>I have ever since regretted, however, that I did not take his advice.
+There seemed to be no protection for the vessel; the law that a ship
+must be allowed to live was unheeded; in fact this law was reversed and
+there were sharpers and beach-combers at every turn ready to take
+advantage of one's misfortunes or even drive one to despair. I
+concluded, finally, to shake the lot of them, and proceeding up the
+Parana, moored again at the berth where, a few weeks before, we had
+taken in the cargo. Spans and tackle were rigged, and all was made ready
+to discharge. It was now, "Come on, McCarthy, or McCarthy, come on!" I
+didn't care which, I had one <i>right</i> on my side, and I kept that always
+in view; namely, the right to discharge the cargo where I had first
+received it; but where the money to buy ballast and pay other charges
+was to come from I could not discover.</p>
+
+<p>My merchant met me in great concern at my "misfortunes," but "carramba!"
+(zounds) said he, "my own losses are great." It required very little
+reasoning to show me that the least expensive course was the safest one
+for me to adopt, and my merchant offering enough to pay the marketing, I
+found it wisest not to disturb the cargo, but to lay up instead with it
+in the vessel and await the reopening of the Brazilian ports. This I
+did.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>My merchant, Don Manuel, is said to be worth millions of <i>pesos</i>. The
+foundation of his wealth was laid by peddling charcoal, carrying it at
+first, to his credit be it said, on his back, and he was then a good
+fellow. Many a hard bargain has he waged since, and is now a "Don,"
+living in a $90,000 house. The Don doesn't peddle charcoal any more.</p>
+
+<p>Moored at Rosario, waiting, waiting; but all of us well in body, and
+myself finally less agitated in mind. My old friend, Don Manuel, seems
+better also; he "may yet purge and live clean like a gentleman."</p>
+
+<p>I found upon our return to Rosario that some of the old hands were
+missing; laid low by the scourge, to make room for others, and some were
+spared who would have been less lamented. Among all the ship-brokers
+that I knew at Rosario, and I knew a great many, not one was taken away.
+They all escaped, being, it was thought, epidemic-proof. There was my
+broker, Don Christo Christiano&mdash;called by Don Manuel "El Sweaga" (the
+Swede)&mdash;whom nothing could strike with penetrative force, except a
+commission.</p>
+
+<p>At last, April 9th, 1887, news came that the Brazilian ports were open.
+Cholera had long since disappeared in Santa F&egrave; and Buenos Aires. The
+Brazilians had established their own beef-drying factories, and could
+now afford to open their ports to competition. This made a great stir
+among the ships. Crews were picked up here and there, out of the few
+brothels that had not been pulled down during the cholera, and out of
+the streets or from the fields. Some, too, came in from the bush. Mixed
+among them were many that had been let out of the prisons all over the
+country, so that the scourge should not be increased by over-crowded
+jails. Of six who shipped with me, four had been so released from
+prison, where they had been serving for murder or high<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span>way robbery; all
+this I learned when it was too late. I shall have occasion before long
+to speak of these again!</p>
+
+<p>Well, we unmoored and dropped down the river a few miles the first day;
+with this crew, the hardest looking set that ever put foot on a ship of
+mine, and with a swarthy Greek pilot that would be taken for a pirate in
+any part of the world. The second mate, who shipped also at Rosario, was
+not less ill-visaged, and had, in addition to his natural ugly features,
+a deep scar across his face, suggestive of a heavy sabre stroke; a mark
+which, I thought upon further acquaintance, he had probably merited. I
+could not make myself easy upon the first acquaintance of my new and
+decidedly ill-featured crew. So, early the first evening I brought the
+bark to anchor, and made all snug before dark for prudent reasons. Next
+morning, the Greek, instead of getting the bark underweigh, as I
+expected him to do, came to me demanding more pay for his services and
+thinking, maybe, that I could not do without him, demanded, unless I
+chose to pay considerably in excess of his regular dues, to be put on
+shore. I took the fellow at his first bounce. He and his grip-sack were
+landed on the bank there and then, with but little "palaver" over it. It
+was then said, so I learned after, that "old S&mdash;&mdash;" would drop into the
+wake of some ship, and save his pilotage; in fact, they didn't know
+"what else he could do," as the pilots were then all engaged for other
+vessels.</p>
+
+<p>The money was taken care of all right, and so was the <i>Aquidneck</i>! By
+daylight of the following morning she was underweigh, and under full
+sail at the head of a fleet of piloted vessels, and, being the swiftest
+sailer, easily kept the lead, and was one of the vessels that did <i>not
+"rompe el banco</i>," as was predicted by all the pilots, while<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span> they
+hunched their shoulders above their ears, exclaiming, "No <i>practico</i>, no
+<i>possebla</i>!" This was my second trip down the Parana, it is true, and I
+had been on other rivers as wonderful as this one, and had, moreover,
+read Mark Twain's "Life on the Mississippi," which gives no end of
+information on river currents, wind-reefs, sand-reefs, alligator-water,
+and all that is useful to know about rivers, so that I was confident of
+my ability; all that had been required was the stirring-up that I got
+from the impertinent pilot, or buccaneer, whichever is proper to call
+him&mdash;one thing certain, he was no true sailor!</p>
+
+<p>A strong, fair wind on the river, together with the current, in our
+favour, carried us flying down the channel, while we kept the lead, with
+the Stars and Stripes waving where they ought always to be seen; namely,
+on the ship in the van! So the duffers followed us, instead of our
+following them, and on we came, all clear, with the good wishes of the
+officers and the crews. But the pilots, drawing their shoulders up and
+repeating the refrain, "No <i>practico</i>, no <i>possebla</i>!" cursed us
+bitterly, and were in a vile mood, I was told, cursing more than usual,
+and that is saying a great deal, for all will agree who have heard them
+that the average "Dago" pilot is the most foul-mouthed thing afloat.</p>
+
+<p>Down the river and past the light-ship we came once more, this time with
+no halt to make, no backing sails to let a pilot off, nothing at all to
+stop us; we spread all sail to a favourable breeze, and reached Ilha
+Grande eight days afterward, beating the whole fleet by two days.
+Garfield kept strict account of this. He was on deck when we made the
+land, a dark and foggy night it was! nothing could be seen but the
+dimmest outline of a headland through the haze. I knew the place, I
+thought, and Garfield said he could smell land, fog or coal-tar.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span> This,
+it will be admitted, was reassuring. A school of merry porpoises that
+gambolled under the bows while we stood confidently in for the land,
+diving and crossing the bark's course in every direction, also guarded
+her from danger. I knew that so long as deep-sea porpoises kept with us
+we had nothing to fear of the ground. When the lookout cried, "Porpoises
+gone," we turned the bark's head off-shore, backed the main-tops'l, and
+sent out the "pigeon" (lead). A few grains of sand and one soft,
+delicate white shell were brought up out of fourteen fathoms of water.
+We had but to heed these warnings and guides, and our course would be
+tolerably clear, dense and all as the fog and darkness was.</p>
+
+<p>The lead was kept constantly going as we sailed along in the intense
+darkness, till the headland of our port was visible through the haze of
+grey morning. What Garfield had smelled, I may mention, turned out to be
+coal-tar, a pot of which had been capsized on deck by the leadsman, in
+the night.</p>
+
+<p>By daylight in the morning, April 29, we had found the inner entrance to
+Ilha Grande, and sailed into the harbour for the second time with this
+cargo of hay. It was still very foggy, and all day heavy gusts of wind
+came down through the gulches in the mountains, laden with fog and rain.</p>
+
+<p>Two days later, the weather cleared up, and our friends began to come
+in. They found us there all right, anchored close under the highest
+mountain.</p>
+
+<p>Eight days of sullen gloom and rain at this place; then brimstone,
+smoke, and fire turned on to us, and we were counted healthy enough to
+be admitted to <i>pratique</i> in Rio, where we arrived May 11th, putting one
+more day between ourselves and our friendly competitors, who finally
+arrived safe, all except one, the British bark <i>Dublin</i>. She was
+destroyed by fire between the two ports.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span> The crew was rescued by
+Captain Lunt, and brought safe into Rio next day.</p>
+
+<p>At the fort entrance to the harbour of Rio we were again challenged and
+brought to, all standing, on the bar; the tide running like a mill race
+at the time brought the bark aback on her cables with a force, nearly
+cutting her down.</p>
+
+<p>The <i>Aquidneck</i> it would seem had outsailed the telegram which should
+have preceded her; it was, nevertheless, my imperative duty to obey the
+orders of the port authorities which, however, should have been tempered
+with reason. It was easy for them in the fort to say, "Come to, or we'll
+sink you," but we in the bark, between two evils, came near being sunk
+by obeying the order.</p>
+
+<p>Formerly, when a vessel was challenged at this fort, one, two or three
+shots, if necessary to bring her to, were fired, at a cost to the ship,
+if she were not American, of fifteen shillings for the first shot,
+thirty for the second, and sixty for the third; but, for American ships,
+the sixty shilling shot was fired first&mdash;Americans would always have the
+best!</p>
+
+<p>After all the difficulties were cleared away, the tardy telegram
+received, and being again identified by the officers, we weighed anchor
+for the last time on this voyage, and went into our destined port, the
+spacious and charming harbour of Rio.</p>
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_V" id="CHAPTER_V"></a>CHAPTER V</h2>
+
+<blockquote><p>At Rio&mdash;Sail for Antonina with mixed cargo&mdash;A <i>pampeiro</i>&mdash;Ship on
+beam-ends&mdash;Cargo still more mixed&mdash;Topgallant-masts carried
+away&mdash;Arrive safely at Antonina.</p></blockquote>
+
+<p>The cargo was at last delivered, and no one made ill over it. A change
+of rats also was made; at Rio those we brought in gave place to others
+from the Dom Pedro Docks where we moored. Fleas, too, skipped about in
+the hay as happy as larks, and nearly as big; and all the other live
+stock that we brought from Rosario, goodness knows of what kind and
+kith, arrived well and sound from over the water, notwithstanding the
+fumigations and fuss made at the quarantine.</p>
+
+<p>Had the little microbes been with us indeed, the Brazilians would not
+have turned us away as they did, from the doors of an hospital! for they
+are neither a cruel nor cowardly people. To turn sickness away would be
+cruel and stupid, to say the least! What we were expelled for I have
+already explained.</p>
+
+<p>After being so long in gloomy circumstances we felt like making the most
+of pleasant Rio! Therefore on the first fine day after being docked, we
+sallied out in quest of city adventure, and brought up first in
+Ouvidor&mdash;the Broadway of Rio, where my wife bought a tall hat, which I
+saw nights looming up like a dreadful stack of hay, the innocent cause
+of much trouble to me, and I declared, by all the great islands&mdash;in my
+dreams&mdash;that go back with it I would not, but would pitch it, first,
+into the sea.</p>
+
+<p>I get nervous on the question of quarantines. I visit the famous
+Botanical Gardens with my family, and I<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span> tremble with fear lest we are
+fumigated at some station on the way. However, our time at Rio is
+pleasantly spent in the main, and on the first day of June, we set sail
+once more for Paranagua and Antonina of pleasant recollections; partly
+laden with flour, kerosene, pitch, tar, rosin and wine, three pianos, I
+remember, and one steam engine and boiler, all as ballast; "freight
+free," so the bill of lading read, and further, that the ship should
+"not be responsible for leakage, breakage, or rust." This clause was
+well for the ship, as one of those wild <i>pampeiros</i> overtook her, on the
+voyage, throwing her violently on her beam-ends, and shaking the motley
+cargo into a confused and mixed-up mess. The vessel remaining tight,
+however, no very serious damage was done, and she righted herself after
+a while, but without her lofty topgallant-masts, which went with a crash
+at the first blast of the tempest.</p>
+
+<p>This incident made a profound impression on Garfield. He happened to be
+on deck when the masts were carried away, but managed to scamper off
+without getting hurt. Whenever a vessel hove in sight after that having
+a broken spar or a torn sail, it was "a <i>pampeiroed</i> ship."</p>
+
+<p>The storm, though short, was excessively severe, and swept over
+Paranagua and Antonina with unusual violence. The owner of the pianos, I
+was told, prayed for us, and regretted that his goods were not insured.
+But when they were landed, not much the worse for their tossing about,
+old Strichine, the owner (that was his name or near that, strychnine the
+boys called him, because his singing was worse than "rough on rats,"
+they said, a bit of juvenile wit that the artist very sensibly let pass
+unheeded), declared that the ship was a good one, and that her captain
+was a good pilot; and as neither freight nor insurance had been paid, he
+and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span> his wife would feast us on music; having learned that I especially
+was fond of it. They had screeched operas for a lifetime in Italy, but I
+didn't care for that. As arranged, therefore, I was on deck at the
+appointed time and place, to stay at all hazards.</p>
+
+<p>The pianos, as I had fully expected, were fearfully out of
+tune&mdash;suffering, I should say, from the effects of seasickness!</p>
+
+<p>So much so that I shall always believe this opportunity was seized upon
+by the artist to avenge the damage to his instruments, which, indeed, I
+could not avert, in the storm that we passed through. The good Strichine
+and his charming wife were astonished at the number of opera airs I
+could name. And they tried to persuade me to sing Il Trovatore; but
+concluding that damage enough had already been done, I refrained, that
+is, I refracted my song.</p>
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VI" id="CHAPTER_VI"></a>CHAPTER VI</h2>
+
+<blockquote><p>Mutiny&mdash;Attempt at robbery and murder&mdash;Four against one&mdash;Two go
+down before a rifle&mdash;Order restored.</p></blockquote>
+
+<p>July 23rd, 1887, brings me to a sudden and shocking point in the history
+of the voyage that I fain would forget, but that will not be possible.
+Between the hours of 11 and 12 p.m. of this day I was called instantly
+to defend my life and all that is dear to a man.</p>
+
+<p>The bark, anchored alone in the harbour of Antonina, was hid from the
+town in the darkness of a night that might well have covered the
+blackest of tragedies. My pirates thought their opportunity had surely
+come to capture the <i>Aquidneck</i>, and this they undertook to do. The
+ringleader of the gang was a burly scoundrel, whose boast was that he
+had "licked" both the mate and second mate of the last vessel he had
+sailed in, and had "busted the captain in the jaw" when they landed in
+Rio, where the vessel was bound, and where, of course, the captain had
+discharged him. It was there the villain shipped with me, in lieu of one
+of the Rosario gang who had been kindly taken in charge by the guard at
+Ilha Grande and brought to Rio to be tried before the American Consul
+for insubordination. Said he, one day when I urged him to make haste and
+help save the topsails in a squall, "Oh, I'm no soft-horn to be
+hurried!" It was the time the bark lost her topgallant-mast and was cast
+on her beam-ends on the voyage to Antonina, already told; it was, in
+fact, no time for loafing, and this braggart at a decisive word hurried
+aloft with the rest to do his duty. What I said to him was meant for
+earnest, and it cowed him. It is only<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span> natural to think that he held a
+grudge against me forever after, and waited only for his opportunity;
+knowing, too, that I was the owner of the bark, and supposed to have
+money. He was heard to say in a rum-mill a day or two before the attack
+that he would find the&mdash;&mdash;money and his life, too. His chum and bosom
+friend had come pretty straight from Palermo penitentiary at Buenos
+Aires when he shipped with me at Rosario.</p>
+
+<p>It was no secret on board the bark that he had served two years for
+robbing, and cutting a ranchman's throat from ear to ear. These records,
+which each seemed to glory in, were verified in both cases.</p>
+
+<p>I met the captain afterwards who had been "busted in the jaw"&mdash;Captain
+Roberts, of Baltimore, a quiet gentleman, with no evil in his heart for
+any one, and a man, like myself, well along in years.</p>
+
+<p>Two of the gang, old Rosario hands, had served for the lesser offence of
+robbery alone&mdash;they brought up in the rear! The other two of my foremast
+hands&mdash;one a very respectable Hollander, the other a little Japanese
+sailor, a bright, young chap&mdash;had been robbed and beaten by the four
+ruffians, and then threatened so that they deserted to the forest
+instead of bringing a complaint of the matter to me, for fear, as the
+Jap expressed it afterwards, when there was no longer any danger,&mdash;for
+fear the "la-la-long mans (thieves) would makee killo mi!"</p>
+
+<p>The ringleader bully had made unusual efforts to create a row when I
+came on board early in the evening; however, as he had evidently been
+drinking, I passed it off as best I could for the natural consequence of
+rum, and ordered him forward; instead of doing as he was bid, when I
+turned to hand my wife to the cabin he followed me threateningly to the
+break of the poop. What struck me most, however, was the conduct of his<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span>
+chum, who was sober, but in a very unusual, high, gleeful mood. It was
+knock-off time when I came along to where he was seizing off the mizzen
+topgallant backstay, the last of the work of refitting the late
+<i>pampeiro</i> damage; and the mate being elsewhere engaged, I gave the
+usual order to quit work. "Knock off," I said to the man, "and put away
+your tools. The bark's rigging looks well," I added, "and if to-morrow
+turns out fine, all will be finished"; whereupon the fellow laughed
+impertinently in my face, repeating my words, "All will be finished!"
+under his breath, adding, "before to-morrow!" This was the first insult
+offered by the "Bloodthirsty Tommy," who had committed murder only a
+short time before; but I had been watched by the fellow, with a cat-like
+eye at every turn.</p>
+
+<p>The full significance of his words on this occasion came up to me only
+next morning, when I saw him lying on the deck with a murderous weapon
+in his hand! I was not expecting a cowardly, night attack, nevertheless
+I kept my gun loaded. I went to sleep this night as usual, forgetting
+the unpleasant episode as soon as my head touched the pillow; but my
+wife, with finer instincts, kept awake. It was well for us all that she
+did so. Near midnight, my wife, who had heard the first footstep on the
+poop-deck, quietly wakened me, saying, "We must get up, and look out for
+ourselves! Something is going wrong on deck; the boat tackle has been
+let go with a great deal of noise, and&mdash;O! don't go that way on deck. I
+heard some one on the cabin steps, and heard whispering in the forward
+entry."</p>
+
+<p>"You must have been dreaming," I said.</p>
+
+<p>"No, indeed!" said she; "I have not been asleep yet; don't go on deck by
+the forward companionway; they are waiting there, I am sure, for I heard
+the creaking of the loose step in the entry."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>If my wife has not been dreaming, thought I, there can be no possible
+doubt of a plot.</p>
+
+<p>Nothing justifies a visit on the poop-deck after working-hours, except a
+call to relieve sickness, or for some other emergency, and then secrecy
+or stealth is non-permissible.</p>
+
+<p>It may be here explained to persons not familiar with ships, that the
+sailors' quarters are in the forward part of the ship where they (the
+sailors) are supposed to be found after working-hours, in port, coming
+never abaft the mainmast; hence the term "before the mast."</p>
+
+<p>My first impulse was to step on deck in the usual way, but the earnest
+entreaties of my wife awoke me to a danger that should be investigated
+with caution. Arming myself, therefore, with a stout carbine repeater,
+with eight ball cartridges in the magazine, I stepped on deck abaft
+instead of forward, where evidently I had been expected. I stood rubbing
+my eyes for a moment, inuring them to the intense darkness, when a
+coarse voice roared down the forward companionway to me to come on deck.
+"Why don't ye come on deck like a man, and order yer men forid?" was the
+salute that I got, and was the first that I heard with my own ears, and
+it was enough. To tell the whole story in a word, I knew that I had to
+face a mutiny.</p>
+
+<p>I could do no less than say: "Go forward there!"</p>
+
+<p>"Yer there, are ye?" said the spokesman, as with an oath, he bounded
+toward me, cursing as he came.</p>
+
+<p>Again I ordered him forward, saying, "I am armed,&mdash;if you come here I
+will shoot!" But I forbore to do so instantly, thinking to club him to
+the deck instead, for my carbine was a heavy one. I dealt him a blow as
+he came near, sufficient I thought, to fell an ox; but it had,
+apparently, no effect, and instantly he was inside of my guard. Then
+grasping me by the throat, he tried to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span> force me over the taffrail, and
+cried, exultingly, as he felt me give way under his brute strength,
+"Now, you damn fool, shoot!" at the same time drawing his knife to
+strike.</p>
+
+<p>I could not speak, or even breathe, but my carbine spoke for me, and the
+ruffian fell with the knife in his hand which had been raised against
+me! Resolution had proved more than a match for brute force, for I then
+knew that not only my own life but also the lives of others depended on
+me at this moment. Nothing daunted, the rest came on, like hungry
+wolves. Again I cried, "Go forward!" But thinking, maybe, that my rifle
+was a single shooter, or that I could not load it so quickly, the order
+was disregarded.</p>
+
+<p>"What if I don't go forward?" was "Bloody Tommy's" threatening question,
+adding, as he sprang toward me, "I've got this for you!" but fell
+instantly as he raised his hand; and there on the deck was ended his
+misadventure! and like the other he fell with the deadly knife in his
+hand. I was now all right. The dread of cold steel had left me when I
+freed myself from the first would-be assassin, and I only wondered how
+many more would persist in trying to take my life. But recollecting
+there were only two mutineers left, and that I had still six shots in
+the magazine of my rifle, and one already in the chamber, I stood ready
+with the hammer raised, and my finger on the trigger, confident that I
+would not be put down.</p>
+
+<p>There was no further need of extreme measures, however, for order was
+now restored, though two of the assailants had skulked away in the dark.</p>
+
+<p>How it was that I regained my advantage, after once losing it, I hardly
+know; but this I am certain of, that being down I was not to be spared.
+Then desperation took the place of fear, and I felt more than a match
+for<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span> all that could come against me. I had no other than serene
+feelings, however, and had no wish to pursue the two pirates that fled.</p>
+
+<p>Immediately after the second shot was fired, and I found myself once
+more master of my bark, the remaining two came aft again, at my bidding
+this time, and in an orderly manner, it may be believed.</p>
+
+<p>It is idle to say what I would or would not have given to have the
+calamity averted, or, in other words, to have had a crew of sailors,
+instead of a gang of cut-throats.</p>
+
+<p>However, when the climax came, I had but one course to pursue; this I
+resolutely followed. A man will defend himself and his family to the
+last, for life is sweet, after all.</p>
+
+<p>It was significant, the court thought afterwards, that while my son had
+not had time to dress, they all had on their boots except the one who
+fell last, and he was in his socks, with no boots on. It was he who had
+waited for me as I have already said, on the cabin steps that I usually
+passed up and down on, but this time avoided. Circumstantial evidence
+came up in abundance to make the case perfectly clear to the
+authorities. There are few who will care to hear more about a subject so
+abhorrent to all, and I care less to write about it. I would not have
+said this much, but for the enterprise of a rising department clerk,
+who, seeing the importance of telling to the world what he knew, and
+seeing also some small emolument in the matter, was I believe prompted
+to augment the consular dispatches, thus obliging me to fight the battle
+over. However, not to be severe on the poor clerk, I will only add that,
+no indignities were offered me by the authorities through all the strict
+investigation that followed the tragedy.</p>
+
+<p>The trial being for justice and not for my money the case was soon
+finished.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>I sincerely hope that I may never again encounter such as those who came
+from the jails to bring harm and sorrow in their wake.</p>
+
+<p>The work of loading was finished soon after the calamity to my bark, and
+a Spanish sailing-master was engaged to take her to Montevideo; my son
+Victor going as flag captain.</p>
+
+<p>I piloted the <i>Aquidneck</i> out of the harbour, and left her clear of the
+buoy, looking as neat and trim as sailor could wish to see. All the
+damage done by the late <i>pampeiro</i> had been repaired, new
+topgallant-masts rigged, and all made ataunto. I saw my handsome bark
+well clear of the dangers of the harbour limits, then in sorrow I left
+her and paddled back to the town, for I was on parole to appear, as I
+have said, for trial! That was the word; I can find no other name for
+it&mdash;let it stand!</p>
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VII" id="CHAPTER_VII"></a>CHAPTER VII</h2>
+
+<blockquote><p>Join the bark at Montevideo&mdash;A good crew&mdash;Small-pox breaks
+out&mdash;Bear up for Maldonado and Flores&mdash;No aid&mdash;Death of sailors&mdash;To
+Montevideo in distress&mdash;Quarantine.</p></blockquote>
+
+<p>As soon as the case was over I posted on for Montevideo by steamer,
+where the bark had arrived only a few days ahead of me. I found her
+already stripped to a gantline though, preparatory to a long stay in
+port. I had given Victor strict orders to interfere in no way with the
+Spaniard, but to let him have full charge in nearly everything. I could
+have trusted the lad with full command, young as he was; but there was a
+strange crew of foreigners which might, as often happens, require
+maturer judgment to manage than to sail the vessel. As it proved,
+however, even the <i>cook</i> was in many ways a better man than the
+sailing-master.</p>
+
+<p>Victor met me with a long face, and the sailors wore a quizzical look as
+I came over the vessel's side. One of them, in particular, whom I shall
+always remember, gave me a good-humoured greeting, along with his shake
+of the head, that told volumes; and next day was aloft, crossing yards,
+cheerfully enough. I found my Brazilian crew to be excellent sailors,
+and things on board the <i>Aquidneck</i> immediately began to assume a
+brighter appearance, aloft and alow.</p>
+
+<p>Cargo was soon discharged, other cargo taken in, and the bark made ready
+for sea. My crew, I say, was a good one; but, poor fellows, they were
+doomed to trials&mdash;the worst within human experience, many of them giving
+up to grim death before the voyage was ended. Too often one bit of bad
+luck follows another. This rule<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span> brought us in contact with one of these
+small officials at Montevideo, better adapted to home life; one of those
+knowing, perhaps, more than need a cowboy, but not enough for consul.
+This official, managing to get word to my crew that a change of master
+dissolved their contract, induced them to come on shore and claim pay
+for the whole voyage and passage home on a steamer besides, the same as
+though the bark had been sold.</p>
+
+<p>What overwhelming troubles may come of having incompetent officials in
+places of trust, the sequel will show. This unwise, even stupid
+interference, was the indirect cause of the sufferings and deaths among
+the crew which followed.</p>
+
+<p>I was able to show the consul and his clerk that sailors are always
+engaged for the ship, and never for the master, and that a change of
+master did not in any way affect their contract. However, I paid the
+crew off, and then left it to their option to re-ship or not, for they
+were all right, they had been led to do what they did, and I knew that
+they wanted to get home, and it was there that the bark was going,
+direct.</p>
+
+<p>All signed the articles again, except one, a long-haired Andalusian,
+whom I would not have longer at any price. The wages remained the same
+as before, and all hands returned to their duty cheerful and
+contented&mdash;but pending the consul's decision (which, by the way, I
+decided for him), they had slept in a contagioned house, where, alas,
+they contracted small-pox of the worst type.</p>
+
+<p>We were now homeward bound. All the "runaway rum" that could be held out
+by the most subtle crimps of Montevideo could not induce these sober
+Brazilian sailors to desert their ship.</p>
+
+<p>These "crimps" are land-sharks who get the sailors drunk when they can,
+and then rob them of their ad<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span>vance money. The sailors are all paid in
+advance; sometimes they receive in this way most of their wages for the
+voyage, which they make after the money is spent, or wasted, or stolen.</p>
+
+<p>We all know what working for dead horse means&mdash;sailors know too well its
+significance.</p>
+
+<p>As sailing day drew near, a half-day liberty to each watch was asked for
+by the men, who wanted to make purchases for their friends and relatives
+at Paranagua. Permission to go on shore was readily granted, and I was
+rewarded by seeing every one return to his ship at the time promised,
+and every one sober. On the morrow, which was sailing day, every man was
+at his post and all sang "Cheerily, ho!" and were happy; all except one,
+who complained of slight chills and a fever, but said that he had been
+subject to this, and that with a dose of quinine he would soon be all
+right again.</p>
+
+<p>It appeared a small matter. Two days later though, his chills turned to
+something which I knew less about. The next day, three more men went
+down with rigor in the spine, and at the base of the brain. I knew by
+this that small-pox was among us!</p>
+
+<p>We bore up at once for Maldonado, which was the nearest port, the place
+spoken of in "Gulliver's Travels," though Gulliver, I think, is mistaken
+as to its identity and location, arriving there before a gathering storm
+that blew wet and cold from the east. Our signals of distress, asking
+for immediate medical aid were set and flew thirty-six hours before any
+one came to us; then a scared Yahoo (the country was still inhabited by
+Yahoos) in a boat rowed by two other animals, came aboard, and said,
+"Yes, your men have got small-pox." "<i>Vechega</i>" he called it, but I
+understand the lingo of the Yahoo very well, I could even speak a few
+words of it and comprehend the meanings. "<i>Vechega</i>!" he bellowed<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span> to
+his mates alongside, and, turning to me, he said, in Yahoo: "You must
+leave the port at once," then jumping into his boat he hurried away,
+along with his scared companions.<a name="FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a></p>
+
+<p>To leave a port in our condition was hard lines, but my perishing crew
+could get no succour at Maldonado, so we could do nothing but leave, if
+at all able to do so. We were indeed short-handed, but desperation
+lending a hand, the anchor was weighed and sufficient sail set on the
+bark to clear the inhospitable port. The wind blowing fair out of the
+harbour carried us away from the port toward Flores Island, for which we
+now headed in sore distress. A gale, long to be remembered, sprang
+suddenly up, stripping off our sails like autumn leaves, before the bark
+was three leagues from the place. We hadn't strength to clew up, so her
+sails were blown away, and she went flying before the mad tempest under
+bare poles. A snow-white sea-bird came for shelter from the storm, and
+poised on the deck to rest. The incident filled my sailors with awe; to
+them it was a portentous omen, and in distress they dragged them<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span>selves
+together and, prostrate before the bird, prayed the Holy Virgin to ask
+God to keep them from harm. The rain beat on us in torrents, as the bark
+tossed and reeled ahead, and day turned black as night. The gale was
+from E.S.E., and our course lay W.N.W. nearly, or nearly before it. I
+stood at the wheel with my shore clothes on, I remember, for I hadn't
+yet had time to change them for waterproofs; this of itself was small
+matter, but it reminds me now that I was busy with other concerns. I was
+always a good helmsman, and I took in hand now the steering of the bark
+in the storm&mdash;and I gave directions to Victor and the carpenter how to
+mix disinfectants for themselves, and medicines for the sick men. The
+medicine chest was fairly supplied.</p>
+
+<p>Flores, when seen, was but a few ship's lengths away. Flashes of
+lightning revealed the low cliffs, amazingly near to us, and as the bark
+swept by with great speed, the roar of the breakers on the shore, heard
+above the din of the storm, told us of a danger to beware. The helm was
+then put down, and she came to under the lee of the island like a true,
+obedient thing.</p>
+
+<p>Both anchors were let go, and all the chain paid out to both, to the
+bitter end, for the gale was now a hurricane. She walked away with her
+anchors for all that we could do, till, hooking a marine cable, one was
+carried away, and the other brought her head to the wind, and held her
+there trembling in the storm.</p>
+
+<p>Anxious fear lest the second cable should break was on our minds through
+the night; but a greater danger was within the ship, that filled us all
+with alarm.</p>
+
+<p>Two barks not far from us that night, with pilots on board, were lost,
+in trying to come through where the <i>Aquidneck</i>, without a pilot and
+with but three hands on deck to work her, came in. Their crews, with
+great difficulty, were rescued and then carried to Montevideo.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span> When all
+had been done that we three could do, a light was put in the rigging,
+that flickered in the gale and went out. Then wet, and lame, and weary,
+we fell down in our drenched clothes, to rest as we might&mdash;to sleep, or
+to listen to groans of our dying shipmates.</p>
+
+<p>When daylight came (after this, the most dismal of all my nights at
+sea), our signals went up telling of the sad condition of the crew, and
+begging for medical assistance. Toward night the gale went down; but, as
+no boat came off, a gloom darker than midnight settled over the crew of
+the pest-ridden bark, and in dismay they again prayed to be spared to
+meet the loved ones awaiting them at home.</p>
+
+<p>Our repeated signals, next day, brought the reply, "Stand in."
+<i>Carramba!</i> Why, we could hardly stand at all; much less could we get
+the bark underway, and beat in against wind and current. No one knew
+this better than they on the island, for my signals had told the whole
+story, and as we were only a mile and a half from the shore, the flags
+were distinctly made out. There was no doubt in our minds about that!</p>
+
+<p>Late in the day, however, a barge came out to us, ill-manned and
+ill-managed by as scared a set of "galoots" as ever capsized a boat, or
+trembled at a shadow! The coxswain had more to say than the doctor, and
+the Yahoo&mdash;I forgot to mention that we were still in Yahoodom, but one
+would see that without this explanation&mdash;the Yahoo in the bow said more
+than both; and they all took a stiff pull from a bottle of
+<i>cachazza</i>,<a name="FNanchor_3_3" id="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a> the doctor having had the start, I should say, of at
+least one or two pulls before leaving the shore, insomuch as he appeared
+braver than the rest of the crew.</p>
+
+<p>The doctor, having taken an extra horn or two, with<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span> Dutch courage came
+on board, and brought with him a pound of sulphur, a pint of carbolic
+acid, and some barley&mdash;enough to feed a robin a few times, for all of
+which we were thankful indeed, our disinfectants being by this time
+nearly exhausted; then, glancing at the prostrate men, he hurried away,
+as the other had done at Maldonado. I asked what I should do with the
+dead through the night&mdash;bury them where we lay? "Oh, no, no!" cried the
+Yahoo in the bow; but the doctor pointed significantly to the water
+alongside! I knew what he meant!</p>
+
+<p>That night we buried Jos&eacute;, the sailor whose honest smile had welcomed me
+to my bark at Montevideo. I had ordered stones brought on deck, before
+dark, ostensibly to ballast the boat. I knew they would soon be wanted!
+About midnight, the cook called me in sore distress, saying that Jos&eacute;
+was dying without confession!</p>
+
+<p>So poor Jos&eacute; was buried that night in the great River Plate! I listened
+to the solemn splash that told of one life ended, and its work done; but
+gloomy, and sad, and melancholy as the case was, I had to smile when the
+cook, not having well-secured the ballast, threw it over after his
+friend, exclaiming, "Good-bye, Jos&eacute;, good-bye!" I added, "Good-bye, good
+shipmate, good-bye! I doubt not that you rest well!"</p>
+
+<p>Next day, the signal from the shore was the same as the day before,
+"Stand in," in answer to my repeated call for help. By this time my men
+were demoralized and panic-stricken, and the poor fellows begged me, if
+the doctor would not try to cure them, to get a priest to confess them
+all. I saw a padre pacing the beach, and set flags asking him to come on
+board. No notice was taken of the signal, and we were now left entirely
+to ourselves.</p>
+
+<p>After burying one more of the crew, we decided to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span> remain no longer at
+this terrible place. An English telegraph tender passing, outward-bound,
+caught up our signals at that point, and kindly reported to her consul
+at Maldonado, who wired it to Montevideo.</p>
+
+<p>The wind blowing away from the shore, as may it always blow when friend
+of mine nears that coast, we determined to weigh anchor or slip cable
+without further loss of time, feeling assured that by the telegraph
+reports some one would be on the look-out for us, and that the
+<i>Aquidneck</i> would be towed into port if the worst should happen&mdash;if the
+rest of her crew went down. Three of us weighed one anchor, with its
+ninety fathoms of chain, the other had parted on the windlass in the
+gale. The bark's prow was now turned toward Montevideo, the place we had
+so recently sailed from, full of hope and pleasant anticipation; and
+here we were, dejected and filled with misery, some of our number
+already gone on that voyage which somehow seems so far away.</p>
+
+<p>At Montevideo, things were better. They <i>did</i> take my remaining sick men
+out of the vessel, after two days' delay; my agent procuring a tug,
+which towed them in the ship's boat three hundred fathoms astern. In
+this way they were taken to Flores Island, where, days and days before,
+they had been refused admittance! They were accompanied this time by an
+order from the governor of Montevideo, and at last were taken in. Two of
+the cases were, by this time, in the favourable change. But the poor old
+cook, who stood faithfully by me, and would not desert his old
+shipmates, going with them to the Island to care for them to the last,
+took the dread disease, died of it, and was there buried, not far from
+where he himself had buried his friend Jos&eacute;, a short time before. The
+death of this faithful man occurred on the day that the bark finally
+sailed seaward, by the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span> Island. She was in sight from the hospital
+window when his phantom ship, that put out, carried him over the bar!
+His widow, at Paranagua, I was told, on learning the fate of her
+husband, died of grief.</p>
+
+<p>The work of disinfecting the vessel, at Montevideo, after the sick were
+removed, was a source of speculation that was most elaborately carried
+on. Demijohns of carbolic acid were put on board, by the dozen, at $3.00
+per demijohn, all diluted ready for use; and a <i>guardo</i> was put on board
+to use it up, which he did religiously over his own precious self, in my
+after-cabin, as far from the end of the ship where the danger was as he
+could get. Some one else disinfected <i>el proa</i>, not he! Abundant as the
+stuff was, I had to look sharp for enough to wash out forward while aft
+it was knee-deep almost, at three dollars a jar! The harpy that alighted
+on deck at Maldonado sent in his bill for one hundred dollars&mdash;I paid
+eighty.</p>
+
+<p>The cost to me of all this trouble in money paid out, irrelevantly to
+mention, was over a thousand dollars. What it cost me in health and
+mental anxiety cannot be estimated by such value. Still, I was not the
+greatest sufferer. My hardest task was to come, you will believe, at the
+gathering up of the trinkets and other purchases which the crew had
+made, thoughtful of wife and child at home. All had to be burned, or
+spoiled with carbolic acid! A hat for the little boy here, a pair of
+boots for his mamma there, and many things for the <i>familia</i> all
+around&mdash;all had to be destroyed!</p>
+
+<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_2_2" id="Footnote_2_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> In our discourse, Yahoo was spoken, but I write it in
+English because many of my readers would not understand the original.
+The signals that we used were made by universal code symbols. For
+example, two flags hoisted representing "P" "D" signified "want (or
+wants) immediate medical assistance." And so on, by hoists of two, three
+or four flags representing the consonants, our wants and wishes could be
+made known, each possessing the key to the code.
+</p><p>
+Our commercial code of signals is so invented and arranged that no
+matter what tongues may meet, perhaps those utterly incomprehensible by
+word of mouth, yet by these signs communications may be carried on with
+great facility. The whole system is so beautifully simple that a child
+of ordinary intelligence can understand it. Even the Yahoos were made to
+comprehend&mdash;when not colour-blind. And, lest they should forget their
+lesson, a gunboat is sent out every year or two, to fire it into them
+with cannon.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_3_3" id="Footnote_3_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> This <i>cachazza</i> is said to be death to microbes, or even to
+larger worms; it will kill anything, in fact, except a Yahoo!</p></div>
+</div>
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VIII" id="CHAPTER_VIII"></a>CHAPTER VIII</h2>
+
+<blockquote><p>A new crew&mdash;Sail for Antonina&mdash;Load timber&mdash;Native canoes&mdash;Loss of
+the <i>Aquidneck</i>.</p></blockquote>
+
+<p>After all this sad trouble was over, a new crew was shipped, and the
+<i>Aquidneck's</i> prow again turned seaward. Passing out by Flores, soon
+after, we observed the coast-guard searching, I learned, for a supposed
+sunken bark, which had appeared between squalls in the late gale with
+signals of distress set. I was satisfied from the account that it was
+our bark which they had seen in the gale, and the supposed flags were
+our tattered sails, what there was left of them, streaming in the storm.
+But we did not discourage the search, as it could do no harm, and I
+thought that they might perhaps find something else worth knowing about.
+This was the day, as I have said, on which my faithful cook died, while
+the bark was in sight from the window of his sick ward. It was a bright,
+fine day to us. We cannot say that it was otherwise than bright to him.</p>
+
+<p>Breathing once more the fresh air of the sea, we set all sail for
+Paranagua, passing the lights on the coast to leave them flickering on
+the horizon, then soon out of sight. Fine weather prevailed, but with
+much head wind; still we progressed, and rarely a day passed but
+something of the distance toward our port was gained. One day, however,
+coming to an island, one that was inhabited only by birds, we came to a
+stand, as if it were impossible to go farther on the voyage; a spell
+seemed to hang over us. I recognized the place as one that I knew well;
+a very dear friend had stood by me on deck,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span> looking at this island,
+some years before. It was the last land that my friend ever saw. I would
+fain have sailed around it now, but a puff of fair wind coming sent us
+on our course for the time some leagues beyond. At sunset, though, this
+wind went down, and with the current we drifted back so much that by the
+next day we were farther off on the other side. However, fair wind
+coming again, we passed up inside, making thus the circuit of the island
+at last.</p>
+
+<p>More or less favourable winds thenceforth filled our sails, till at last
+our destined port was gained.</p>
+
+<p>The little town of Antonina, where my wife and Garfield had remained
+over during this voyage, twelve miles up the bay from Paranagua, soon
+after our arrival, was made alive with the noise of children marching to
+children's own music, my "Yawcob" heading the band with a brand-new
+ninety-cent organ, the most envied fellow of the whole crowd. Sorrows of
+the past took flight, or were locked in the closet at home, the fittest
+place for past misfortunes.</p>
+
+<p>A truly hard voyage for us all was that to Montevideo! The survivors
+reached home after a while. Their features were terribly marked and
+disfigured; so much so that I did not know them till they accosted me
+when we met.</p>
+
+<p>I look back with pleasure to the good character of my Brazilian sailors,
+regretting the more their hard luck and sad fate! We may meet again!
+<i>Quien sabe!</i></p>
+
+<p>Getting over all this sad business as best we could, we entered on the
+next venture, which was to purchase and load a cargo of the famous
+Brazilian wood. The <i>Aquidneck</i> was shifted to an arm of the bay, where
+she was moored under the lee of a virgin forest, twenty minutes' canoe
+ride from the village of Guarakasava, where she soon began to load.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The timber of this country, generally very heavy, is nevertheless hauled
+by hand to the water, where, lashed to canoes, it is floated to the
+ship.</p>
+
+<p>These canoes, formed sometimes from mammoth trees, skilfully shaped and
+dug out with care, are at once the carriage and <i>cariole</i> of the family
+to the <i>citio</i>, or the rice to mill. Roads are hardly known where the
+canoe is available; men, women, and children are consequently alike,
+skilled in the art of canoeing to perfection, almost. There are no
+carriages to speak of in such places, even a saddle horse about the
+waterfront is a <i>rara avis</i>. There was, indeed, one horse at
+Guarakasava&mdash;the owner of it was very conspicuous.</p>
+
+<p>The family canoe just spoken of, has the capacity, often, of several
+tons, is handsomely decorated with carvings along the topsides, and is
+painted, as the "Geordie" would say, "in none o' your gaudy colours, but
+in good plain red or blue"&mdash;sometimes, however, they are painted green.</p>
+
+<p>The cost of these handsome canoes are, say, from $250 down in price and
+size, from the grand turnout to the one-man craft which may be purchased
+for five milreis ($2.50).</p>
+
+<p>From the greatest to the smallest they are cared for with almost an
+affectionate care, and are made to last many years.</p>
+
+<p>One thing else which even the poorest Brazilian thinks much of is his
+affectionate wife who literally and figuratively is often in the same
+boat with her husband, pulling against the stream. Family ties are
+strong in Brazil and the sweet flower of friendship thrives in its sunny
+clime. The system of land and sea breezes prevail on the coast from Cape
+Frio to Saint Catherine with great regularity most of the year; the sail
+is therefore used to good advantage by the almost amphibious<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span>
+inhabitants along the coast who love the water and take to it like ducks
+and natural born sailors.</p>
+
+<p>The wind falling light they propel their canoes by paddle or long pole
+with equal facility. The occupants standing, in the smaller ones, force
+them along at a great speed. The larger ones, when the wind does not
+serve, are pulled by banks of oars which are fastened to stout pegs in
+the gunwail with grummits, that fit loosely over the oars so as to allow
+them free play in the hand of the waterman.</p>
+
+<p>Curling the water with fine, shapely prows as they dart over the smooth
+waters of the bays and rivers, these canoes present a picture of
+unrivalled skill and grace.</p>
+
+<p>I find the following entry in my diary made near the close of
+transactions at Guarakasava which in the truthful word of an historian I
+am bound to record, if only to show my prevailing high opinion of the
+natives while I was among them:&mdash;</p>
+
+<blockquote><p class='right'><span class="smcap">Guarakasava</span>, Dec. 20th.</p>
+
+<p>Heretofore I have doted on native Brazilian honesty as well as
+national seamanship and skill in canoes but my dream of a perfect
+paradise is now unsettled forever. I find, alas! that even here the
+fall of Adam is felt: Taking in some long poles to-day the negro
+tallyman persisted in counting twice the same pole. When the first
+end entered the port it was "<i>umo</i>" (one); when the last end
+disappeared into the ship he would sing out "<i>does</i>" (two).</p></blockquote>
+
+<p>I had no serious difficulty over the matter, but left Guarakasava with
+that hurt feeling which comes of being over persuaded that one and one
+make four.</p>
+
+<p>We spent Christmas of 1887 at Guarakasava. The bark was loaded soon
+after, and when proceeding across<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span> the bay, where currents and wind
+caught her foul near a dangerous sand bar, she misstayed and went on the
+strand. The anchor was let go to club her. It wouldn't hold in the
+treacherous sands; so she dragged and stranded broadside on, where, open
+to the sea, a strong swell came in that raked her fore and aft for three
+days, the waves dashing over her groaning hull the while till at last
+her back was broke and&mdash;why not add heart as well! for she lay now
+undone. After twenty-five years of good service the <i>Aquidneck</i> here
+ended her days!</p>
+
+<p>I had myself carried load on load, but alas! I could not carry a
+mountain; and was now at the end where my best skill and energy could
+not avail. What was to be done? What could be done? We had indeed the
+appearance of shipwrecked people, away, too, from home.</p>
+
+<p>This was no time to weep, for the lives of all the crew were saved;
+neither was it a time to laugh, for our loss was great.</p>
+
+<p>But the sea calmed down, and I sold the wreck, which floated off at the
+end of the storm. And after paying the crew their wages out of the
+proceeds had a moiety left for myself and family&mdash;a small sum.</p>
+
+<p>Then I began to look about for the future, and for means of escape from
+exile. The crew (foreign) found shipping for Montevideo, where they had
+joined the <i>Aquidneck</i>, in lieu of the stricken Brazilian sailors. But
+for myself and family this outlet was hardly available, even if we had
+cared to go farther from home,&mdash;which was the least of our thoughts; and
+there were no vessels coming our way.</p>
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_IX" id="CHAPTER_IX"></a>CHAPTER IX</h2>
+
+<blockquote><p>The building of the <i>Liberdade</i>.</p></blockquote>
+
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<div>Away, away, no cloud is lowering o'er us</div>
+<div class='i1'>Freely now we stem the wave;</div>
+<div>Hoist, hoist all sail, before us</div>
+<div class='i1'>Hope's beacon shines to cheer the brave.</div>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<div class="right">&mdash;<i>Masaniello</i>.</div>
+</div></div>
+
+
+<p>When all had been saved from the wreck that was worth saving, or that
+could be saved, we found ourselves still in the possession of some goods
+soon to become of great value to us, especially my compass and charts
+which, though much damaged, were yet serviceable and suggested practical
+usefulness; and the chronometer being found intact, my course was no
+longer undecided, my wife and sons agreeing with what I thought best.</p>
+
+<p>The plan, in a word, was this: We could not beg our way, neither would
+we sit idle among the natives. We found that it would require more
+courage to remain in the far-off country than to return home in a boat,
+which then we concluded to build and for that purpose.<a name="FNanchor_4_4" id="FNanchor_4_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a></p>
+
+<p>My son Victor, with much pride and sympathy, entered heartily into the
+plan, which promised a speedy return home. He bent his energies in a
+practical direction, working on the boat like an old builder.</p>
+
+<p>Before entering on the project, however, all responsibilities were
+considered. Swift ocean currents around capes and coral reefs were taken
+into account; and above all else to be called dangerous we knew would
+be the fierce tropical storms which surely we would encounter.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span></p>
+<p class="center"><a name="illust-052.png" id="illust-052.png"></a><img src="images/illust-052.png" width='700' height='430' alt="Diagram of the Liberdade" /></p>
+
+<h4>Diagram of the <i>Liberdade</i></h4>
+
+<h5>(Length 35 ft. beam 7&frac12; ft., draught 2&frac12; ft. weight 6 tons.)</h5>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span>But a boat should be built stout and strong, we all said, one in which
+we should not be afraid to trust our lives even in the storm.</p>
+
+<p>And with the advantage of experience in ships and boats of various sizes
+and in many seas, I turned to the work of constructing, according to my
+judgment and means, a craft which would be best adapted to all weathers
+and all circumstances. My family with sympathetic strength pulling hard
+in the same direction.</p>
+
+<p>Seaworthiness was to be the first and most prominent feature in our
+microscopic ship; next to this good quality she should sail well; at
+least before free winds. We counted on favourable winds; and so they
+were experienced the greater part of the voyage that soon followed.</p>
+
+<p>Long exposures and many and severe disappointments by this time, I
+found, had told on health and nerve, through long quarantines, expensive
+fumigations, and ruinous doctors' visits, which had swept my dollars
+into hands other than mine. However, with still a "shot in the locker,"
+and with some feelings of our own in the matter of how we should get
+home, I say, we set to work with tools saved from the wreck&mdash;a meagre
+kit&mdash;and soon found ourselves in command of another ship, which I will
+describe the building of, also the dimensions and the model and rig,
+first naming the tools with which it was made.</p>
+
+<p>To begin with, we had an axe, an adze, and two saws, one &frac12;-inch auger,
+one 6/8 and one 3/8 auger-bit; two large sail-needles, which we
+converted into nailing bits; one roper, that answered for a punch; and,
+most precious of all, a file that we found in an old sail-bag washed up
+on the beach. A square we readily made.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span> Two splints of bamboo wood
+served as compasses. Charcoal, pounded as fine as flour and mixed in
+water, took the place of chalk for the line; the latter we had on hand.
+In cases where holes larger than the 6/8 bit were required, a piece of
+small jack-stay iron was heated, and with this we could burn a hole to
+any size required. So we had, after all, quite a kit to go on with.
+Clamps, such as are used by boat builders, we had not, but made
+substitutes from the crooked guava tree and from <i>massaranduba</i> wood.</p>
+
+<p>Trees from the neighbouring forest were felled when the timber from the
+wrecked cargo would not answer. Some of these woods that we sought for
+special purposes had queer sounding names, such as <i>arregebah,
+guanandee, batetenandinglastampai</i>, etc. This latter we did not use the
+saw upon at all, it being very hard, but hewed it with the axe, bearing
+in mind that we had but one file, whereas for the edged tools we had but
+to go down to a brook hard by to find stones in abundance suitable to
+sharpen them on.</p>
+
+<p>The many hindrances encountered in the building of the boat will not be
+recounted here. Among the least was a jungle fever, from which we
+suffered considerably. But all that and all other obstacles vanished at
+last, or became less, before a new energy which grew apace with the
+boat, and the building of the craft went rapidly forward. There was no
+short day system, but we rested on the Sabbath, or surveyed what we had
+done through the week, and made calculations of what and how to strike
+on the coming week.</p>
+
+<p>The unskilled part of the labour, such as sawing the cedar planks, of
+which she was mostly made, was done by the natives, who saw in a rough
+fashion, always leaving much planing and straightening to be done, in
+order to adjust the timber to a suitable<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span> shape. The planks for the
+bottom were of ironwood, 1&frac14; X 10 inches. For the sides and top red
+cedar was used, each plank, with the exception of two, reaching the
+whole length of the boat. This arrangement of exceedingly heavy wood in
+the bottom, and the light on top, contributed much to the stability of
+the craft.</p>
+
+<p>The ironwood was heavy as stone, while the cedar, being light and
+elastic, lent buoyancy and suppleness, all that we could wish for.</p>
+
+<p>The fastenings we gathered up in various places, some from the bulwarks
+of the wreck, some from the hinges of doors and skylights, and some were
+made from the ship's metal sheathing, which the natives melted and cast
+into nails. Pure copper nails, also, were procured from the natives,
+some ten <i>kilos</i>, for which I paid in copper coins, at the rate of two
+<i>kilos</i> of coin for one <i>kilo</i> of nails. The same kind of coins, called
+<i>dumps</i>, cut into diamond-shaped pieces, with holes punched through
+them, entered into the fastenings as burrs for the nails. A number of
+small eyebolts from the spanker-boom of the wreck were turned to account
+for lashing bolts in the deck of the new vessel. The nails, when too
+long, were cut to the required length, taking care that the ends which
+were cut off should not be wasted, but remelted, along with the metal
+sheathing, into other nails.</p>
+
+<p>Some carriage bolts, with nuts, which I found in the country, came in
+very handy; these I adjusted to the required length, when too long, by
+slipping on blocks of wood of the required thickness to take up the
+surplus length, putting the block, of course, on the inside, and
+counter-sinking the nut flush with the planks on the outside; then
+screwing from the inside outward, they were drawn together, and there
+held as in a vice, the planks being put together "lap-streak" fashion,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a></span>
+which without doubt is the strongest way to build a boat.</p>
+
+<p>These screw-bolts, seventy in number, as well as the copper nails, cost
+us dearly, but wooden pegs, with which also she was fastened, cost only
+the labour of being made. The lashings, too, that we used here and there
+about the frame of the cabin, cost next to nothing, being made from the
+fibrous bark of trees, which could be had in abundance by the stripping
+of it off. So, taking it by and large, our materials were not expensive,
+the principal item being the timber, which cost about three cents per
+superficial foot, sawed or hewed. Rosewood, ironwood, cedar or mahogany,
+were all about the same price and very little in advance of common wood;
+so of course we selected always the best, the labour of shaping being
+least, sometimes, where the best materials were used.</p>
+
+<p>These various timbers and fastenings, put together as best we could
+shape and join them, made a craft sufficiently strong and seaworthy to
+withstand all the bufferings on the main upon which, in due course, she
+was launched.</p>
+
+<p>The hull being completed, by various other contrivances and makeshifts
+in which, sometimes, the "wooden blacksmith" was called in to assist,
+and the mother of invention also lending a hand, fixtures were made
+which served as well on the voyage as though made in a dockyard and at
+great cost.</p>
+
+<p>My builders baulked at nothing, and on the 13th day of May, the day on
+which the slaves of Brazil were set free, our craft was launched, and
+was named <i>Liberdade</i> (Liberty).</p>
+
+<p>Her dimensions being&mdash;35 feet in length over all, 7&frac12; feet breadth of
+beam, and 3 feet depth of hold. Who shall say that she was not large
+enough?<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Her model I got from my recollections of Cape Ann dories and from a
+photo of a very elegant Japanese <i>sampan</i> which I had before me on the
+spot, so, as it might be expected, when finished she resembled both
+types of vessel in some degree.</p>
+
+<p>Her rig was the Chinese <i>sampan</i> style, which is, I consider, the most
+convenient boat rig in the whole world.</p>
+
+<p>This was the boat, or canoe I prefer to call it, in which we purposed to
+sail for North America and home. Each one had been busy during the
+construction and past misfortunes had all been forgotten. Madam had made
+the sails&mdash;and very good sails they were, too!</p>
+
+<p>Victor, the carpenter, ropemaker, and general roustabout had performed
+his part. Our little man, Garfield, too, had found employment in holding
+the hammer to clinch the nails and giving much advice on the coming
+voyage. All were busy, I say, and no one had given a thought of what we
+were about to encounter from the port officials farther up the coast; it
+was pretended by them that a passport could not be granted to so small a
+craft to go on so long a voyage as the contemplated one to North
+America.</p>
+
+<p>Then fever returned to the writer and the constructor of the little
+craft, and I was forced to go to bed, remaining there three days.
+Finally, it came to my mind that in part of a medicine chest, which had
+been saved from the wreck, was stored some <i>arsenicum</i>, I think it is
+called. Of this I took several doses (small ones at first, you may be
+sure), and the good effect of the deadly poison on the malaria in my
+system was soon felt trickling through my veins. Increasing the doses
+somewhat, I could perceive the beneficial effect hour by hour, and in a
+few days I had quite recovered from the malady. Absurd as it was to have
+the judgment of sailors set on by polly<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</a></span>wog navigators, we had still to
+submit, the pollywogs being numerous.</p>
+
+<p>About this time&mdash;as the astrologers say&mdash;a messenger came down from the
+<i>Alfandega</i> (Custom House), asking me to repair thither at midday on the
+morrow. This filled me with alarm. True, the messenger has delivered his
+message in the politest possible manner, but that signified nothing,
+since Brazilians are always polite. This thing, small as it seems now,
+came near sending me back to the fever.</p>
+
+<p>What had I done?</p>
+
+<p>I went up next day, after having nightmare badly all night, prepared to
+say that I wouldn't do it again! The kind administrator I found, upon
+presenting myself at his office, had no fault to charge me with; but had
+a good word, instead. "The little <i>Liberdade</i>," he observed, had
+attracted the notice of his people and his own curiosity, as being "a
+handsome and well-built craft." This and many other flattering
+expressions were vented, at which I affected surprise, but secretly
+said, "I think you are right, sir, and you have good taste, too, if you
+are a customs officer."</p>
+
+<p>The drift of this flattery, to make a long story short, was to have me
+build a boat for the <i>Alfandega</i>, or, his government not allowing money
+to build new&mdash;pointing to one which certainly would require new keel,
+planks, ribs, stem, and stern-post&mdash;"could I not repair one?"</p>
+
+<p>To this proposition I begged time to consider. Flattering as the
+officer's words were, and backed by the offer of liberal pay, so long as
+the boat could be "repaired," I still had no mind to remain in the hot
+country, and risk getting the fever again. But there was the old hitch
+to be gotten over; namely, the passport, on which, we thought, depended
+our sailing.</p>
+
+<p>However, to expedite matters, a fishing licence was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span> hit upon, and I
+wondered why I had not thought of that before, having been, once upon a
+time, a fisherman myself. Heading thence on a new diplomatic course, I
+commenced to fit ostensibly for a fishing voyage. To this end, a fishing
+net was made, which would be a good thing to have, anyway. Then hooks
+and lines were rigged and a cable made. This cable, or rope, was formed
+from vines that grow very long on the sand-banks just above tide water,
+several of which twisted together make a very serviceable rope, then
+being light and elastic, it is especially adapted for a boat anchor
+rope, or for the storm drag. Ninety fathoms of this rope was made for us
+by the natives, for the sum of ten milreis ($5.00).</p>
+
+<p>The anchor came of itself almost. I had made a wooden one from heavy
+sinking timber, but a stalwart ranchman coming along, one day, brought a
+boat anchor with him which, he said, had been used by his slaves as a
+pot-hook. "But now that they are free and away," said he, "I have no
+further use for the crooked thing." A sewing-machine, which had served
+to stitch the sails together, was coveted by him, and was of no further
+use to us; in exchange for this the prized anchor was readily secured,
+the owner of it leaving us some boot into the bargain. Things working
+thus in our favour, the wooden anchor was stowed away to be kept as a
+spare bower.</p>
+
+<p>These arrangements completed, our craft took on the appearance of a
+fishing smack, and I began to feel somewhat in my old element, with no
+fear of the lack of ways and means when we should arrive on our own
+coast, where I knew of fishing banks. And a document which translated
+read: "A licence to catch fish inside and outside of the bar" was
+readily granted by the port authorities.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>"How far outside the bar may this carry us?" I asked.</p>
+
+<p>"<i>Quien sabe!</i>" said the officer. (Literally translated, "Who knows?"
+but in Spanish or Portuguese used for, "Nobody knows, or, I don't
+care.")</p>
+
+<p>"Adieu, se&ntilde;or," said the polite official; "we will meet in heaven!"</p>
+
+<p>This meant you can go since you insist upon it, but I must not
+officially know of it; and you will probably go to the bottom. In this
+he and many others were mistaken.</p>
+
+<p>Having the necessary document now in our possession, we commenced to
+take in stores for the voyage, as follows: Sea-biscuits, 120 lbs.;
+flour, 25 lbs.; sugar, 30 lbs.; coffee, 9 lbs., which, roasted black and
+pounded fine as wheaten flour, was equal to double the amount as
+prepared in North America, and afforded us a much more delicious cup.</p>
+
+<p>Of tea we had 3 lbs.; pork, 20 lbs.; dried beef, 100 lbs.; <i>baccalao
+secca</i> (dried codfish), 20 lbs.; 2 bottles of honey, 200 oranges, 6
+bunches of bananas, 120 gallons of water; also a small basket of yams,
+and a dozen sticks of sugar-cane, by way of vegetables.</p>
+
+<p>Our medicine chest contained Brazil nuts, pepper, and cinnamon; no other
+medicines or condiments were required on the voyage, except table salt,
+which we also had.</p>
+
+<p>One musket and a carbine&mdash;which had already stood us in good
+stead&mdash;together with ammunition and three cutlasses were stowed away for
+last use, to be used, nevertheless, in case of necessity.</p>
+
+<p>The light goods I stowed in the ends of the canoe, the heavier in the
+middle and along the bottom, thus economizing space and lending to the
+stability of the canoe. Over the top of the midship stores a floor was
+made, which, housed over by a tarpaulin roof reaching<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</a></span> three feet above
+the deck of the canoe, supported by a frame of bamboo, gave us sitting
+space of four feet from the floor to the roof, and twelve feet long
+amidships. This arrangement of cabin in the centre gave my passengers a
+berth where the least motion would be felt; even this is saying but
+little, for best we could do to avoid it we had still to accept much
+tossing from the waves.</p>
+
+<p>Precautionary measures were taken in everything, so far as our resources
+and skill could reach. The springy and buoyant bamboo was used wherever
+stick of any kind was required, such as the frame and braces for the
+cabin, yards for the sails, and, finally, for guard on her top sides,
+making the canoe altogether a self-righting one, in case of a capsize.
+Each joint in the bamboo was an air-chamber of several pounds buoyant
+capacity, and we had a thousand joints.</p>
+
+<p>The most important of our stores, particularly the flour, bread, and
+coffee, were hermetically sealed, so that if actually turned over at
+sea, our craft would not only right herself, but would bring her stores
+right side up, in good order, and it then would be only a question of
+baling her out, and of setting her again on her course, when we would
+come on as right as ever. As it turned out, however, no such trial or
+mishap awaited us.</p>
+
+<p>While the possibility of many and strange occurrences was felt by all of
+us, the danger which loomed most in little Garfield's mind was that of
+the sharks.</p>
+
+<p>A fine specimen was captured on the voyage, showing five rows of pearly
+teeth, as sharp as lances.</p>
+
+<p>Some of these monsters, it is said, have nine rows of teeth; that they
+are always hungry is admitted by sailors of great experience.</p>
+
+<p>How it is that sailors can go in bathing, as they often do, in the face
+of a danger so terrible, is past my com<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</a></span>prehension. Their business is to
+face danger, to be sure, but this is a needless exposure, for which the
+penalty is sometimes a life. The second mate of a bark on the coast of
+Cuba, not long ago, was bitten in twain, and the portions swallowed
+whole by a monster shark that he had tempted in this way. The shark was
+captured soon after, and the poor fellow's remains taken out of the
+revolting maw.</p>
+
+<p>Leaving the sharks where they are, I gladly return to the voyage of the
+<i>Liberdade</i>.</p>
+
+<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTE:</h3>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_4_4" id="Footnote_4_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4_4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> This alternative I was obliged to accept, or bring my
+family home as paupers, for my wealth was gone&mdash;need I explain more?
+This explanation has been forced from me.</p></div>
+</div>
+
+<p class="center"><a name="illust-062.png" id="illust-062.png"></a><img src="images/illust-062.png" width='700' height='554' alt="The Liberdade" /></p>
+
+<h4>The <i>Liberdade</i></h4>
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_X" id="CHAPTER_X"></a>CHAPTER X</h2>
+
+<blockquote><p>Across the bar&mdash;The run to Santos&mdash;Tow to Rio by the steamship&mdash;At
+Rio.</p></blockquote>
+
+<p>The efficiency of our canoe was soon discovered: On the 24th of June,
+after having sailed about the bay some few days to temper our feelings
+to the new craft, and shake things into place, we crossed the bar and
+stood out to sea, while six vessels lay inside "bar-bound," that is to
+say by their pilots it was thought too rough to venture out, and they,
+the pilots, stood on the point as we put out to sea, crossing themselves
+in our behalf, and shouting that the bar was <i>crudo</i>. But the
+<i>Liberdade</i> stood on her course, the crew never regretting it.</p>
+
+<p>The wind from the sou'west at the time was the moderating side of a
+<i>pampeiro</i> which had brought in a heavy swell from the ocean, that broke
+and thundered on the bar with deafening roar and grand display of
+majestic effort.</p>
+
+<p>But our little ship bounded through the breakers like a fish&mdash;as natural
+to the elements, and as free!</p>
+
+<p>Of all the seas that broke furiously about her that day, often standing
+her on end, not one swept over or even boarded her, and she finally came
+through the storm of breakers in triumph. Then squaring away before the
+wind she spread her willing sails, and flew onward like a bird.</p>
+
+<p>It required confidence and some courage to face the first storm in so
+small a bark, after having been years in large ships; but it would have
+required more courage than was possessed by any of us to turn back,
+since thoughts of home had taken hold on our minds.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Then, too, the old boating trick came back fresh to me, the love of the
+thing itself gaining on me as the little ship stood out: and my crew
+with one voice said: "Go on." The heavy South Atlantic swell rolling in
+upon the coast, as we sped along, toppled over when it reached the ten
+fathom line, and broke into roaring combers, which forbade our nearer
+approach to the land.</p>
+
+<p>Evidently, our safest course was away from the shore, and out where the
+swelling seas, though grand, were regular, and raced under our little
+craft that danced like a mite on the ocean as she drove forward. In
+twenty-four hours from the time Paranagua bar was crossed we were up
+with Santos Heads, a run of 150 miles.</p>
+
+<p>A squall of wind burst on us through a gulch, as we swept round the
+Heads, tearing our sails into shreds, and sending us into Santos under
+bare poles.</p>
+
+<p>Chancing then upon an old friend, the mail steamship <i>Finance</i>, Capt.
+Baker, about to sail for Rio, the end of a friendly line was extended to
+us, and we were towed by the stout steamer toward Rio, the next day, as
+fast as we could wish to go. My wife and youngest sailor took passage on
+the steamer, while Victor remained in the canoe with me, and stood by
+with axe in hand, to cut the tow-line, if the case should require
+it&mdash;and I steered.</p>
+
+<p>"Look out," said Baker, as the steamer began to move ahead, "look out
+that I don't snake that canoe out from under you."</p>
+
+<p>"Go on with your mails, Baker," was all I could say, "don't blow up your
+ship with my wife and son on board, and I will look out for the packet
+on the other end of the rope."</p>
+
+<p>Baker opened her up to thirteen knots, but the <i>Liberdade</i> held on!<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The line that we towed with was 1-1/3 inches in diameter, by ninety
+fathoms long. This, at times when the steamer surged over seas, leaving
+the canoe on the opposite side of a wave astern, would become as taut as
+a harp-string. At other times it would slacken and sink limp in a bight,
+under the forefoot, but only for a moment, however, when the steamer's
+next great plunge ahead would snap it taut again, pulling us along with
+a heavy, trembling jerk. Under the circumstances, straight steering was
+imperative, for a sheer to port or starboard would have finished the
+career of the <i>Liberdade</i>, by sending her under the sea. Therefore, the
+trick of twenty hours fell to me&mdash;the oldest and most experienced
+helmsman. But I was all right and not over-fatigued until Baker cast oil
+upon the "troubled waters." I soon got tired of that.</p>
+
+<p>Victor was under the canvas covering, with the axe still in hand, ready
+to cut the line which was so arranged that he could reach it from
+within, and cut instantly, if by mischance the canoe should take a
+sheer.</p>
+
+<p>I was afraid that the lad would become sleepy, and putting his head
+"under his wing" for a nap, would forget his post, but my frequent cry,
+"Stand by there, Victor," found him always on hand, though complaining
+somewhat of the dizzy motion.</p>
+
+<p>Heavy sprays dashed over me at the helm, which, however, seeming to wash
+away the sulphur and brimstone smoke of many a quarantine, brought
+enjoyment to my mind.</p>
+
+<p>Confused waves rose about us, high and dangerous&mdash;often high above the
+gunwale of the canoe&mdash;but her shapely curves balanced her well, and she
+rode over them all in safety.</p>
+
+<p>This canoe ride was thrilling and satisfactory to us all. It proved
+beyond a doubt that we had in this little<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</a></span> craft a most extraordinary
+sea-boat, for the tow was a thorough test of her seaworthiness.</p>
+
+<p>The captain of the steamer ordered oil cast over from time to time,
+relieving us of much spray and sloppy motion, but adding to discomforts
+of taste to me at the helm, for much of the oil blew over me and in my
+face. Said the captain to one of his mates (an old whaler by the way,
+and whalers for some unaccountable reason have never too much regard for
+a poor merchantman), "Mr. Smith."</p>
+
+<p>"Aye, aye, sir," answered old Smith.</p>
+
+<p>"Mr. Smith, hoist out that oil."</p>
+
+<p>"Aye, aye, sir," said the old "blubberhunter," in high glee, as he went
+about it with alacrity, and in less than five minutes from the time the
+order was given, I was smothering in grease and our boat was oiled from
+keel to truck.</p>
+
+<p>"She's all right now," said Smith.</p>
+
+<p>"That's all right," said Baker, but I thought it all wrong. The wind,
+meanwhile, was in our teeth and before we crossed Rio bar I had
+swallowed enough oil to cure any amount of consumption.</p>
+
+<p>Baker, I have heard, said he wouldn't care much if he should "drown
+Slocum." But I was all right so long as the canoe didn't sheer, and we
+arrived at Rio safe and sound after the most exciting boat-ride of my
+life. I was bound not to cut the line that towed us so well; and I knew
+that Baker wouldn't let it go, for it was his rope.</p>
+
+<p>I found at Rio that my fishing licence could be exchanged for a pass of
+greater import. This document had to be procured through the office of
+the Minister of Marine.</p>
+
+<p>Many a smart linguist was ready to use his influence on my behalf with
+the above-named high official; but I<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a></span> found at the end of a month that I
+was making headway about as fast as a Dutch galliot in a head sea after
+the wind had subsided. Our worthy Consul, General H. Clay Armstrong,
+gave me a hint of what the difficulty was and how to obviate it. I then
+went about the business myself as I should have done at first, and I
+found those at the various departments who were willing to help me
+without the intervention of outside "influence."</p>
+
+<p>Commander Marquis of the Brazilian navy recommended me to His
+Excellency, the Minister of Marine, "out of regard," he said, "for
+American seamen," and when the new document came it was "<i>Passe
+Especial</i>," and had on it <i>a seal as big as a soup plate</i>. A port naval
+officer then presented me to the good <i>Administradore,</i> who also gave me
+a <i>passe especial</i>, with the seal of the <i>Alfandega</i>.</p>
+
+<p>I had now only to procure a bill of health, when I should have papers
+enough for a man-o'-war. Rio being considered a healthy place, this was
+readily granted, making our equipment complete.</p>
+
+<p>I met here our minister whose office, with other duties, is to keep a
+weather-eye lifting in the interest of that orphan, the American
+ship&mdash;alas, my poor relation! Said he, "Captain, if your <i>Liberdade</i> be
+as good as your papers" (documents given me by the Brazilian officials),
+"you may get there all right"; adding, "well, if the boat ever reaches
+home she will be a great curiosity," the meaning of which, I could
+readily infer, was, "and your chances for a snap in a dime museum will
+be good." This, after many years of experience as an American
+shipmaster, and also shipowner, in a moderate way, was interesting
+encouragement. By our Brazilian friends, however, the voyage was looked
+upon as a success already achieved.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</a></span></p>
+
+<blockquote><p>The utmost confidence [said the "Journal Opiz," of Rio], is placed
+in the cool-headed, audacious American mariner, and we expect in a
+short time to hear proclaimed in all of the journals of the Old and
+New World the safe arrival of this wonderful little craft at her
+destination, ourselves taking part in the glory. (Temos confianca
+na pericia e sangue frio do audaciauso marinhero Americano por isso
+esperamos que dentro em pouco tempo veremos o seu nome proclamado
+por todos os jornaes do velho e novo mundo. A nos tambem cabera
+parte da gloria.)</p></blockquote>
+
+<p>With these and like kind expressions from all of our <i>friends</i>, we took
+leave of Rio, sailing on the morning of July 23rd, 1888.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="center"><a name="illust-069.png" id="illust-069.png"></a><img src="images/illust-069.png" width='575' height='700' alt="Course of the Liberdade" /></p>
+
+<h4>Course of the <i>Liberdade</i> from Paranagua to Barbadoes</h4>
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XI" id="CHAPTER_XI"></a>CHAPTER XI</h2>
+
+<blockquote><p>Sail from Rio&mdash;Anchor at Cape Frio&mdash;Encounter with a whale&mdash;Sunken
+treasure&mdash;The schoolmaster&mdash;The merchant&mdash;The good people at the
+village&mdash;A pleasant visit.</p></blockquote>
+
+<p>July 23rd, 1888, was the day, as I have said, on which we sailed from
+Rio de Janeiro.</p>
+
+<p>Meeting with head winds and light withal, through the day we made but
+little progress; and finally, when night came on, we anchored twenty
+miles east of Rio Heads, near the shore. Long, rolling seas rocked us as
+they raced by, then, dashing their great bodies against defying rocks,
+made music by which we slept that night. But a trouble unthought of
+before came up in Garfield's mind before going to his bunk; "Mamma,"
+cried he, as our little bark rose and fell on the heavy waves, tumbling
+the young sailor about from side to side in the small quarters while he
+knelt seriously at his evening devotion, "mamma, this boat isn't big
+enough to pray in!" But this difficulty was gotten over in time, and
+Garfield learned to watch as well as to pray on the voyage, and full of
+faith that all would be well, laid him down nights and slept as
+restfully as any Christian on sea or land.</p>
+
+<p>By daylight of the second day we were again underweigh, beating to the
+eastward against the old head wind and head sea. On the following night
+we kept her at it, and the next day made Cape Frio where we anchored
+near the entrance to a good harbour.</p>
+
+<p>Time from Rio, two days; distance, 70 miles.</p>
+
+<p>The wind and tide being adverse, compelled us to wait outside for a
+favourable change. While comfort<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</a></span>ably anchored at this place, a huge
+whale, nosing about, came up under the canoe, giving us a toss and a
+great scare. We were at dinner when it happened. The meal, it is
+needless to say, was finished without dessert. The great sea
+animal&mdash;fifty to sixty feet long&mdash;circling around our small craft,
+looked terribly big. He was so close to me twice, as he swam round and
+round the canoe, that I could have touched him either time with a
+paddle. His flukes stirring the water like a steamer propeller appeared
+alarmingly close and powerful!&mdash;and what an ugly mouth the monster had!
+Well, we expected instant annihilation. The fate of the stout whale-ship
+<i>Essex</i> came vividly before me. The voyage of the <i>Liberdade</i>, I
+thought, was about ended, and I looked about for pieces of bamboo on
+which to land my wife and family. Just then, however, to the infinite
+relief of all of us, the leviathan moved off, without doing us much
+harm, having felt satisfied, perhaps, that we had no Jonah on board.</p>
+
+<p>We lost an anchor through the incident, and received some small damage
+to the keel, but no other injury was done&mdash;even this, I believe, upon
+second thought, was unintentional&mdash;done in playfulness only! "A shark
+can take a joke," it is said, and crack one too, but for broad, rippling
+humour the whale has no equal.</p>
+
+<p>"If this be a sample of our adventures in the beginning," thought I, "we
+shall have enough and to spare by the end of the voyage." A visit from
+this quarter had not been counted on; but Sancho Panza says, "When least
+aware starts the hare," which in our case, by the by, was a great whale!</p>
+
+<p>When our breath came back and the hair on our heads settled to a normal
+level, we set sail, and dodged about under the lee of the cape till a
+cove, with a very enticing sand beach at the head of it, opened before
+us,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</a></span> some three miles northwest of where we lost the anchor in the
+remarkable adventure with the whale. The "spare bower" was soon bent to
+the cable. Then we stood in and anchored near a cliff, over which was a
+goat-path leading in the direction of a small fishing village, about a
+mile away. Sheering the boat in to the rocky side of the cove which was
+steep to, we leaped out, warp in hand, and made fast to a boulder above
+the tidal flow, then, scrambling over the cliff, we repaired to the
+village, first improvising a spare anchor from three sticks and a stone
+which answered the purpose quite well.</p>
+
+<p>Judging at once that we were strangers the villagers came out to meet
+us, and made a stir at home to entertain us in the most hospitable
+manner, after the custom of the country, and with the villagers was a
+gentleman from Canada, a Mr. Newkirk, who, as we learned, was engaged,
+when the sea was smooth, in recovering treasure that was lost near the
+cape in the British warship <i>Thetis</i>, which was wrecked there in 1830.
+The treasure, some millions in silver coins and gold in bars, from Peru
+for England, was dumped in the cove, which has since taken the name of
+the ship that bore it there and, as I have said, came to grief in that
+place which is on the west shore near the end of the cape.</p>
+
+<p>Some of the coins were given to us to be treasured as souvenirs of the
+pleasant visit. We found in Mr. Newkirk a versatile, roving genius; he
+had been a schoolmaster at home, captain of a lake schooner once, had
+practised medicine, and preached some, I think; and what else I do not
+know. He had tried many things for a living, but, like the proverbial
+moving stone had failed to accumulate. "Matters," said the Canadian,
+"were getting worse and worse even, till finally to keep my<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</a></span> head above
+water I was forced to go under the sea," and he had struck it rich, it
+would seem, if gold being brought in by the boat-load was any sign. This
+man of many adventures still spoke like a youngster; no one had told him
+that he was growing old. He talked of going home, as soon as the balance
+of the treasure was secured, "just to see his dear old mother," who, by
+the way, was seventy-four years old when he left home, some twenty years
+before. Since his last news from home, nearly two decades had gone by.
+He was "the youngest of a family of eighteen children, all living," he
+said, "though," added he, "our family came near being made one less
+yesterday, by a whale which I thought would eat my boat, diving-bell,
+crew, money and all, as he came toward us, with open mouth. By a back
+stroke of the oars, however, we managed to cheat him out of his dinner,
+if that was what he was after, and I think it was, but here I am!" he
+cried, "all right!" and might have added, "wealthy after all."</p>
+
+<p>After hearing the diver's story, I related in Portuguese our own
+adventure of the same day, and probably with the same whale, the monster
+having gone in the direction of the diver's boat. The astonishment of
+the listeners was great; but when they learned of our intended voyage to
+<i>America do Norte</i>, they crossed themselves and asked God to lend us
+grace!</p>
+
+<p>"Is North America near New York?" asked the village merchant, who owned
+all the boats and nets of the place.</p>
+
+<p>"Why, America is <i>in</i> New York," answered the ex-schoolmaster.</p>
+
+<p>"I thought so," said the self-satisfied merchant. And no doubt he
+thought some of us very stupid, or rude, or both, but in spite of
+manners I had to smile at the assuring air of the Canadian.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>"Why did you not answer him correctly?" I asked of the ex-schoolmaster.</p>
+
+<p>"I answered him," said Newkirk, "according to his folly. Had I corrected
+his rusty geography before these simple, impoverished fishermen, he
+would not soon forgive me; and as for the rest of the poor souls here,
+the knowledge would do them but little good."</p>
+
+<p>I may mention that in this out-of-the-way place there were no schools,
+and except the little knowledge gained in their church, from the
+catechism, and from the fumbling of beads, they were the most innocent
+of this world's scheme, of any people I ever met. But they seemed to
+know all about heaven, and were, no doubt, happy.</p>
+
+<p>After the brief, friendly chat that we had, coffee was passed around,
+the probabilities of the <i>Liberdade's</i> voyage discussed, and the crew
+cautioned against the dangers of the <i>balaena</i> (whale), which were
+numerous along the coast, and vicious at that season of the year, having
+their young to protect.</p>
+
+<p>I realized very often the startling sensation alone of a night at the
+helm, of having a painful stillness broken by these leviathans bursting
+the surface of the water with a noise like the roar of a great sea,
+uncomfortably near, reminding me of the Cape Frio adventure; and my
+crew, I am sure, were not less sensitive to the same feeling of an awful
+danger, however imaginary. One night in particular, dark and foggy I
+remember, Victor called me excitedly, saying that something dreadful
+ahead and drawing rapidly near had frightened him.</p>
+
+<p>It proved to be a whale, for some reason that I could only guess at,
+threshing the sea with its huge body, and surging about in all
+directions, so that it puzzled me to know which way to steer to go
+clear. I thought at first, from the rumpus made, that a fight was going
+on, such<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</a></span> as we had once witnessed from the deck of the <i>Aquidneck</i>, not
+far from this place. Our course was changed as soon as we could decide
+which way to avoid, if possible, all marine disturbers of the peace. We
+wished especially to keep away from infuriated swordfish, which I feared
+might be darting about, and be apt to give us a blind thrust. Knowing
+that they sometimes pierce stout ships through with their formidable
+weapons, I began to feel ticklish about the ribs myself, I confess, and
+the little watch below, too, got uneasy and sleepless; for one of these
+swords, they knew well, would reach through and through our little boat,
+from keel to deck. Large ships have occasionally been sent into port
+leaky from the stab of a sword, but what I most dreaded was the
+possibility of one of us being ourselves pinned in the boat.</p>
+
+<p>A swordfish once pierced a whale-ship through the planking, and through
+the solid frame timber and the thick ceiling, with his sword, leaving it
+there, a valuable plug indeed, with the point, it was found upon
+unshipping her cargo at New Bedford, even piercing through a cask in the
+hold.</p>
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XII" id="CHAPTER_XII"></a>CHAPTER XII</h2>
+
+<blockquote><p>Sail from Frio&mdash;Round Cape St. Thome&mdash;High seas and swift
+currents&mdash;In the "trades"&mdash;Dangerous reefs&mdash;Run into harbour
+unawares, on a dark and stormy night&mdash;At Caravellas&mdash;Fine
+weather&mdash;A gale&mdash;Port St. Paulo&mdash;Treacherous natives&mdash;Sail for
+Bahia.</p></blockquote>
+
+<p>July 30th, early in the day, and after a pleasant visit at the cape, we
+sailed for the north, securing first a few sea shells to be cherished,
+with the <i>Thetis</i> relics, in remembrance of a most enjoyable visit to
+the hospitable shores of Cape Frio.</p>
+
+<p>Having now doubled Cape Frio, a prominent point in our voyage, and
+having had the seaworthiness of our little ship thoroughly tested, as
+already told; and seeing, moreover, that we had nothing to fear from
+common small fry of the sea (one of its greatest monsters having failed
+to capsize us), we stood on with greater confidence than ever, but
+watchful, nevertheless, for any strange event that might happen.</p>
+
+<p>A fresh polar wind hurried us on, under shortened sail, toward the
+softer "trades" of the tropics, but, veering to the eastward by
+midnight, it brought us well in with the land. Then, "Larboard watch,
+ahoy! all hands on deck and turn out reefs," was the cry. To weather
+Cape St. Thome we must lug on all sail. And we go over the shoals with a
+boiling sea and current in our favour. In twenty-four hours from Cape
+Frio, we had lowered the Southern Cross three degrees&mdash;180 miles.</p>
+
+<p>Sweeping by the cape, the canoe sometimes standing on end, and sometimes
+buried in the deep hollow of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</a></span> sea, we sunk the light on St. Thome
+soon out of sight and stood on with flowing sheet. The wind on the
+following day settled into regular south-east "trades," and our cedar
+canoe skipped briskly along, over friendly seas that were leaping toward
+home, doffing their crests onward and forward, but never back, and the
+splashing waves against her sides, then rippling along the thin cedar
+planks between the crew and eternity, vibrated enchanting music to the
+ear, while confidence grew in the bark that was <span class="smcap">homeward bound</span>.</p>
+
+<p>But coming upon coral reefs, of a dark night, while we listened to the
+dismal tune of the seas breaking over them with an eternal roar, how
+intensely lonesome they were! no sign of any living thing in sight,
+except, perhaps, the phosphorescent streaks of a hungry shark, which
+told of bad company in our wake, and made the gloom of the place more
+dismal still.</p>
+
+<p>One night we made shelter under the lee of the extensive reefs called
+the Paredes (walls), without seeing the breakers at all in the dark,
+although they were not far in the distance. At another time, dragging on
+sail to clear a lee shore, of a dark and stormy night, we came suddenly
+into smooth water, where we cast anchor and furled our sails, lying in a
+magic harbour till daylight the next morning, when we found ourselves
+among a maze of ugly reefs, with high seas breaking over them, as far as
+the eye could reach, on all sides, except at the small entrance to the
+place that we had stumbled into in the night. The position of this
+future harbour is South Lat. 16&deg; 48', and West Long, from Greenwich 39&deg;
+30'. We named the place "<span class="smcap">Port Liberdade</span>."</p>
+
+<p>The next places sighted were the treacherous Abrohles, and the village
+of Caravellas back of the reef where, upon refitting, I found that a
+chicken cost a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</a></span> thousand reis, a bunch of bananas four hundred reis; but
+where a dozen limes cost only twenty reis&mdash;one cent. Much whaling gear
+lay strewn about the place, and on the beach was the carcass of a whale
+about nine days slain. Also leaning against a smart-looking boat was a
+grey-haired fisherman, boat and man relics of New Bedford, employed at
+this station in their familiar industry. The old man was bare-footed and
+thinly clad, after the custom in this climate. Still, I recognized the
+fisherman and sailor in the set and rig of the few duds he had on, and
+the ample straw hat (donkey's breakfast) that he wore, and doffed in a
+seaman-like manner, upon our first salute. "<i>Filio do Mar do Nord
+Americano</i>," said an affable native close by, pointing at the same time
+to that "son of the sea of North America," by way of introduction, as
+soon as it was learned that we, too, were of that country. I tried to
+learn from this ancient mariner the cause of his being stranded in this
+strange land. He may have been cast up there by the whale for aught I
+could learn to the contrary.</p>
+
+<p>Choosing a berth well to windward of the dead whale&mdash;the one that landed
+"the old man of the sea" there, maybe!&mdash;we anchored for the night, put a
+light in the rigging and turned in. Next morning, the village was astir
+betimes; canoes were being put afloat, and the rattle of poles, paddles,
+bait boxes, and many more things for the daily trip that were being
+hastily put into each canoe, echoed back from the tall palm groves notes
+of busy life, telling us that it was time to weigh anchor and be
+sailing. To this cheerful tune we lent ear and, hastening to be
+underweigh, were soon clear of the port. Then, skimming along near the
+beach in the early morning, our sails spread to a land breeze, laden
+with fragrance from the tropic forest and the music of many songsters,
+we sailed in great felicity, dreading no dangers<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</a></span> from the sea, for
+there were none now to dread or fear.</p>
+
+<p>Proceeding forward through this belt of moderate winds, fanned by
+alternating land and sea breezes, we drew on toward a region of high
+trade-winds that reach sometimes the dignity of a gale. It was no
+surprise, therefore, after days of fine-weather sailing, to be met by a
+storm, which so happened as to drive us into the indifferent anchorage
+of St. Paulo, thirty miles from Bahia, where we remained two days for
+shelter.</p>
+
+<p>Time, three days from Caravellas; distance sailed, 270 miles.</p>
+
+<p>A few fishermen lounged about the place, living, apparently, in wretched
+poverty, spending their time between waiting for the tide to go out,
+when it was in, and waiting for it to come in, when it was out, to float
+a canoe or bring fish to their shiftless nets. This, indeed, seemed
+their only concern in life; while their ill-thatched houses, forsaken of
+the adobe that once clung to the wicker walls, stood grinning in rows,
+like emblems of our mortality.</p>
+
+<p>We found at this St. Paulo anything but saints. The wretched place
+should be avoided by strangers, unless driven there for shelter, as we
+ourselves were, by stress of weather. We left the place on the first
+lull of the wind, having been threatened by an attack from a gang of
+rough, half-drunken fellows, who rudely came on board, jostling about,
+and jabbering in a dialect which, however, I happened to understand. I
+got rid of them by the use of my broken Portuguese, and once away I was
+resolved that they should stay away. I was not mistaken in my suspicions
+that they would return and try to come aboard, which shortly afterward
+they did, but my resolution to keep them off was not shaken. I let them
+know, in their own jargon this time, that I was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</a></span> well armed. They
+finally paddled back to the shore, and all visiting was then ended. We
+stood a good watch that night, and by daylight next morning, Aug. 12th,
+put to sea, standing out in a heavy swell, the character of which I knew
+better, and could trust to more confidently than a harbour among
+treacherous natives.</p>
+
+<p>Early in the same day, we arrived at <i>Bahia do todos Santos</i> (All
+Saints' Bay), a charming port, with a rich surrounding country. It was
+from this port, by the way, that Robinson Crusoe sailed for Africa to
+procure slaves for his plantation and that of his friend, so fiction
+relates.</p>
+
+<p>At Bahia we met many friends and gentle folk. Not the least interesting
+at this port are the negro lasses of fine physique seen at the markets
+and in the streets, with burdens on their heads of baskets of fruit, or
+jars of water, which they balance with ease and grace, as they go
+sweeping by with that stately mien which the dusky maiden can call her
+own.</p>
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIII" id="CHAPTER_XIII"></a>CHAPTER XIII</h2>
+
+<blockquote><p>At Bahia&mdash;Meditations on the discoverers&mdash;The Caribbees.</p></blockquote>
+
+<p>At Bahia we refitted, with many necessary provisions, and repaired the
+keel, which we found, upon hauling out, had been damaged by the
+encounter with the whale at Frio. An iron shoe was now added for the
+benefit of all marine monsters wishing to scratch their backs on our
+canoe.</p>
+
+<p>Among the many friends whom we met at Bahia were Capt. Boyd and his
+family of the bark <i>H. W. Palmer</i>. We shall meet the <i>Palmer</i> and the
+Boyds again on the voyage. They were old traders to South America and
+had many friends at this port who combined to make our visit a pleasant
+one. And their little son Rupert was greatly taken with the
+"<i>Rib</i>erdade," as he called her, coming often to see us. And the
+officials of the port taking great interest in our voyage, came often on
+board. No one could have treated us more kindly than they.</p>
+
+<p>The venerable <i>Administradore</i> himself gave us special welcome to the
+port and a kind word upon our departure, accompanied by a present for my
+wife in the shape of a rare white flower, which we cherished greatly as
+coming from a true gentleman.</p>
+
+<p>Some strong abolitionists at the port would have us dine in an epicurean
+way in commemoration of the name given our canoe, which was adopted
+because of her having been put afloat on the thirteenth day of May, the
+day on which every human being in Brazil could say, "I have no master
+but one." I declined the banquet tendered us, having work on hand,
+fortifying the canoe<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</a></span> against the ravaging worms of the seas we were yet
+to sail through, bearing in mind the straits of my great predecessor
+from this as well as other causes on his voyage over the Caribbean Seas.
+I was bound to be strengthened against the enemy.</p>
+
+<p>The gout, it will be remembered, seized upon the good Columbus while his
+ship had worms, when both ship and admiral lay stranded among menacing
+savages; surrounded, too, by a lawless, threatening band of his own
+countrymen not less treacherous than the worst of cannibals. His state
+was critical indeed! One calamity was from over-high living&mdash;this I was
+bound to guard against&mdash;the other was from neglect on the part of his
+people to care for the ship in a seaman-like manner. Of the latter
+difficulty I had no risk to run.</p>
+
+<p>Lazy and lawless, but through the pretext of religion, the infected crew
+wrought on the pious feelings of the good admiral, inducing him at every
+landing to hold mass instead of cleaning the foul ship. Thus through
+petty intrigue and grave neglects, they brought disaster and sorrow on
+their leader and confusion on their own heads. Their religion, never
+deep, could not be expected to keep <i>Terredo</i> from the ship's bottom, so
+her timbers were ravished, and ruin came to them all! Poor Columbus! had
+he but sailed with his son Diego and his noble brother Bartholomew, for
+his only crew and companions, not forgetting the help of a good woman,
+America would have been discovered without those harrowing tales of woe
+and indeed heartrending calamities which followed in the wake of his
+designing people. Nor would his ship have been less well manned than was
+the <i>Liberdade</i>, sailing, centuries after, over the same sea and among
+many of the islands visited by the great discoverer&mdash;sailing, too,
+without serious accident of any kind, and without sickness or
+discontent. Our advantage<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</a></span> over Columbus, I say, was very great, not
+more from the possession of data of the centuries which had passed than
+from having a willing crew sailing without dissent or murmur&mdash;sailing in
+the same boat, as it were.</p>
+
+<p>A pensive mood comes over one voyaging among the scenes of the New
+World's early play-ground. To us while on this canoe voyage of pleasant
+recollection the fancied experience of navigators gone before was
+intensely thrilling.</p>
+
+<p>Sailing among islands clothed in eternal green, the same that Columbus
+beheld with marvellous anticipations, and the venerable Las Casas had
+looked upon with pious wonder, brought us, in the mind's eye, near the
+old discoverers; and a feeling that we should come suddenly upon their
+ships around some near headland took deep hold upon our thoughts as we
+drew in with the shores. All was there to please the imagination and
+dream over in the same balmy, sleepy atmosphere, where Juan Ponce de
+Leon would fain have tarried young, but found death rapid, working side
+by side with ever springing life. To live long in this clime one must
+obey great Nature's laws. So stout Juan and millions since have found,
+and so always it will be.</p>
+
+<p>All was there to testify as of yore, all except the first owners of the
+land; they alas! the poor Caribbees, together with their camp fires, had
+been extinguished long years before. And no one of human sympathy can
+read of the cruel tortures and final extermination of these islanders,
+savages though they were, without a pang of regret at the unpleasant
+page in a history of glory and civilization.</p>
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIV" id="CHAPTER_XIV"></a>CHAPTER XIV</h2>
+
+<blockquote><p>Bahia to Pernambuco&mdash;The meeting of the <i>Finance</i> at sea&mdash;At
+Pernambuco&mdash;Round Cape St. Roque&mdash;A gale&mdash;Breakers&mdash;The stretch to
+Barbadoes&mdash;Flying-fish alighting on deck&mdash;Dismasted&mdash;Arrive at
+Carlysle Bay.</p></blockquote>
+
+<p>From Bahia to Pernambuco our course lay along that part of the Brazilian
+coast fanned by constant trade-winds. Nothing unusual occurred to
+disturb our peace or daily course, and we pressed forward night and day,
+as was our wont from the first.</p>
+
+<p>Victor and I stood watch and watch at sea, usually four hours each.</p>
+
+<p>The most difficult of our experiences in fine weather was the intense
+drowsiness brought on by constantly watching the oscillating compass at
+night: even in the daytime this motion would make one sleepy.</p>
+
+<p>We soon found it necessary to arrange a code of signals which would
+communicate between the tiller and the "man forward." This was
+accomplished by means of a line or messenger extending from one to the
+other, which was understood by the number of pulls given by it; three
+pulls, for instance, meant "Turn out," one in response, "Aye, aye, I am
+awake, and what is it that is wanted?" one pull in return signified that
+it was "Eight bells," and so on. But three quick jerks meant "Tumble out
+and shorten sail."</p>
+
+<p>Victor, it was understood, would tie the line to his arm or leg when he
+turned in, so that by pulling I would be sure to arouse him, or bring
+him somewhat unceremoniously out of his bunk. Once, however, the
+messenger failed to accomplish its purpose. A boot came<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</a></span> out on the line
+in answer to my call, so easily, too, that I suspected a trick. It was
+evidently a preconceived plan by which to gain a moment more of sleep.
+It was a clear imposition on the man at the wheel!</p>
+
+<p>We had also a sign in this system of telegraphing that told of
+flying-fish on board&mdash;manna of the sea&mdash;to be gathered up for the
+<i>cuisine</i> whenever they happened to alight or fall on deck, which was
+often, and as often they found a warm welcome.</p>
+
+<p>The watch was never called to make sail. As for myself, I had never to
+be called, having thoughts of the voyage and its safe completion on my
+mind to keep me always on the alert. I can truly say that I never, on
+the voyage, slept so sound as to forget where I was, but whenever I fell
+into a doze at all it would be to dream of the boat and the voyage.</p>
+
+<p>Press on! press on! was the watchword while at sea, but in port we
+enjoyed ourselves and gave up care for rest and pleasure, carrying a
+supply, as it were, to sea with us, where sail was again carried on.</p>
+
+<p>Though a mast should break, it would be no matter of serious concern,
+for we would be at no loss to mend and rig up spars for this craft at
+short notice, most anywhere.</p>
+
+<p>The third day out from Bahia was set fine weather. A few flying-fish
+made fruitless attempts to rise from the surface of the sea, attracting
+but little attention from the sea-gulls which sat looking wistfully
+across the unbroken deep with folded wings.</p>
+
+<p>And the <i>Liberdade</i>, doing her utmost to get along through the common
+quiet, made but little progress on her way. A dainty fish played in her
+light wake, till tempted by an evil appetite for flies, it landed in the
+cockpit upon a hook, thence into the pan, where many a one had brought
+up before. Breakfast was cleared away<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</a></span> at an early hour; then day of
+good things happened&mdash;"the meeting of the ships."</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<div>When o'er the silent sea alone</div>
+<div class='i1'>For days and nights we've cheerless gone,</div>
+<div>Oh they who've felt it know how sweet,</div>
+<div class='i1'>Some sunny morn a sail to meet.</div>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<div>Sparkling at once is every eye,</div>
+<div class='i1'>"Ship ahoy! ship ahoy!" our joyful cry</div>
+<div>While answering back the sound we hear,</div>
+<div class='i1'>"Ship ahoy! ship ahoy! what cheer, what cheer."</div>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<div>Then sails are backed, we nearer come,</div>
+<div class='i1'>Kind words are said of friends and home,</div>
+<div>And soon, too soon, we part with pain,</div>
+<div class='i1'>To sail o'er silent seas again.</div>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>On the clear horizon could be seen a ship, which proved to be our
+staunch old friend, the <i>Finance</i>, on her way out to Brazil, heading
+nearly for us. Our course was at once changed, so as to cross her bows.
+She rose rapidly, hull up, showing her lines of unmistakable beauty, the
+Stars and Stripes waving over all. They on board the great ship soon
+descried our little boat, and gave sign by a deep whistle that came
+rumbling over the sea, telling us that we were recognized. A few moments
+later and the engines stopped. Then came the hearty hail, "Do you want
+assistance?" Our answer "No" brought cheer on cheer from the steamer's
+deck, while the <i>Liberdade</i> bowed and courtesied to her old
+acquaintance, the superior ship. Captain Baker, meanwhile, not
+forgetting a sailor's most highly prized luxury, had ordered in the
+slings a barrel of potatoes&mdash;new from home! Then dump they came, in a
+jiffy, into the canoe, giving her a settle in the water of some inches.
+Other fresh provisions were handed us, also<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</a></span> some books and late papers.
+J. Aspinwill Hodge, D.D., on a tour of inspection in the interest of the
+Presbyterian Mission in Brazil&mdash;on deck here with his camera&mdash;got an
+excellent photograph of the canoe.<a name="FNanchor_5_5" id="FNanchor_5_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a></p>
+
+<p>One gentleman passed us a bottle of wine, on the label of which was
+written the name of an old acquaintance, a merchant of Rio. We pledged
+Mr. Gudgeon and all his fellow passengers in that wine, and had some
+left long after, to the health of the captain of the ship, and his crew.
+There was but little time for words, so the compliments passed were
+brief. The ample plates in the sides of the <i>Finance</i>, inspiring
+confidence in American thoroughness and build, we had hardly time to
+scan, when her shrill whistle said "good-bye," and moving proudly on,
+the great ship was soon out of sight, while the little boat, filling
+away on the starboard tack, sailed on toward home, perfumed with the
+interchange of a friendly greeting, tinged though with a palpable
+lonesomeness. Two days after this pleasant meeting, the Port of
+Pernambuco was reached.</p>
+
+<p>Tumbling in before a fresh "trade" wind that in the evening had sprung
+up, accompanied with long, rolling seas, our canoe came nicely round the
+point between lighted reef and painted buoy.</p>
+
+<p>Spray from the breakers on the reef opportunely wetting her sails gave
+them a flat surface to the wind as we came close haul.</p>
+
+<p>The channel leading up the harbour was not strange to us, so we sailed
+confidently along the lee of the wonderful wall made by worms, to which
+alone Pernam<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</a></span>buco is indebted for its excellent harbour; which,
+extending also along a great stretch of the coast, protects Brazil from
+the encroachment of the sea.</p>
+
+<p>At 8 p.m. we came to in a snug berth near the <i>Alfandega</i>, and early
+next morning received the official visit from the polite port officers.</p>
+
+<p>Time from Bahia, five days; distance sailed, 390 miles.</p>
+
+<p>Pernambuco, the principal town of a large and wealthy province of the
+same name, is a thriving place, sending out valuable cargoes,
+principally of sugar and cotton. I had loaded costly cargoes here, times
+gone by. I met my old merchant again this time, but could not carry his
+goods on the <i>Liberdade</i>. However, fruits from his orchards and a run
+among the trees refreshed my crew, and prepared them for the coming
+voyage to Barbadoes, which was made with expedition.</p>
+
+<p>From Pernambuco we experienced a strong current in our favour, with,
+sometimes, a confused cross sea that washed over us considerably. But
+the swift current sweeping along through it all made compensation for
+discomforts of motion, though our "ups and downs" were many. Along this
+part of the coast (from Pernambuco to the Amazon), if one day should be
+fine, three stormy ones would follow, but the gale was always fair,
+carrying us forward at a goodly rate.</p>
+
+<p>Along about half way from Cape St. Roque to the Amazon, the wind which
+had been blowing hard for two days, from E.S.E., and raising lively
+waves all about, increased to a gale that knocked up seas, washing over
+the little craft more than ever. The thing was becoming monotonous and
+tiresome; for a change, therefore, I ran in toward the land, so as to
+avoid the ugly cross sea farther out in the current. This course was a
+mistaken one; we had not sailed far on it when a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</a></span> sudden rise of the
+canoe, followed by an unusually long run down on the slope of a roller,
+told us of a danger that we hardly dared to think of, then a mighty
+comber broke, but, as Providence willed, broke short of the canoe, which
+under shortened sail was then scudding very fast.</p>
+
+<p>We were on a shoal, and the sea was breaking from the bottom! The second
+great roller came on, towering up, up, up, until nothing longer could
+support the mountain of water, and it seemed only to pause before its
+fall to take aim and surely gather us up in its sweeping fury.</p>
+
+<p>I put the helm a-lee; there was nothing else to do but this, and say
+prayers. The helm hard down, brought the canoe round, bows to the
+danger, while in breathless anxiety we prepared to meet the result as
+best we could. Before we could say "Save us, or we perish," the sea
+broke over with terrific force and passed on, leaving us trembling in
+His hand, more palpably helpless than ever before. Other great waves
+came madly on, leaping toward destruction; how they bellowed over the
+shoal! I could smell the slimy bottom of the sea, when they broke! I
+could taste the salty sand!</p>
+
+<p>In this perilous situation, buried sometimes in the foaming breakers,
+and at times tossed like a reed on the crest of the waves, we struggled
+with might and main at the helm and the sheets, easing her up or forcing
+her ahead with care, gaining little by little toward deep water, till at
+last she came out of the danger, shook her feathers like a sea-bird, and
+rode on waves less perilous. Then we had time and courage to look back,
+but not till then.</p>
+
+<p>And what a sight we beheld! The horizon was illumined with
+phosphorescent light from the breakers just passed through. The
+rainstorm which had obscured the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</a></span> coast was so cleared away now that we
+could see the whole field of danger behind us. One spot in particular,
+the place where the breakers dashed over a rock which appeared awash, in
+the glare flashed up a shaft of light that reached to the heavens.</p>
+
+<p>This was the greatest danger we had yet encountered. The elasticity of
+our canoe, not its bulk, saved it from destruction. Her light, springy
+timbers and buoyant bamboo guards brought her upright again and again
+through the fierce breakers. We were astonished at the feats of wonder
+of our brave little craft.</p>
+
+<p>Fatigued and worn with anxiety, when clear of the shoal we hauled to
+under close reefs, heading off shore, and all hands lay down to rest
+till daylight. Then, squaring away again, we set what sail the canoe
+could carry, scudding before it, for the wind was still in our favour,
+though blowing very hard. Nevertheless the weather seemed fine and
+pleasant at this stage of our own pleased feelings. Any weather that
+one's craft can live in, after escaping a lee shore, is pleasant
+weather&mdash;though some may be pleasanter than other.</p>
+
+<p>What we most wished for, after this thrilling experience, was sea room,
+fair wind, and plenty of it. That these without stint would suit us
+best, was agreed on all hands. Accordingly then I shaped the course
+seaward, clearing well all the dangers of the land.</p>
+
+<p>The fierce tropical storm of the last few days turned gradually into
+mild trade-winds, and our cedar canoe skipped nimbly once more over
+tranquil seas. Our own agitation, too, had gone down and we sailed on
+unruffled by care. Gentle winds carried us on over kindly waves, and we
+were fain to count fair days ahead, leaving all thoughts of stormy ones
+behind. In this hopeful mood we sailed for many days, our spirits never
+lowering, but often rising higher out of the miserable<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[Pg 91]</a></span> condition which
+we had fallen into through misfortunes on the foreign shore. When a star
+came out, it came as a friend, and one that had been seen by friends of
+old. When all the stars shone out, the hour at sea was cheerful, bright,
+and joyous. Welby saw, or had in the mind's-eye, a day like many that we
+experienced in the soft, clear "trades" on this voyage, when writing the
+pretty lines:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<div>The twilight hours like birds flew by,</div>
+<div class='i1'>As lightly and as free,</div>
+<div>Ten thousand stars were in the sky,</div>
+<div class='i1'>Ten thousand on the sea.</div>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<div>For every rippling, dancing wave,</div>
+<div class='i1'>That leaped upon the air,</div>
+<div>Had caught a star in its embrace,</div>
+<div class='i1'>And held it trembling there.</div>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>"The days pass, and our ship flies fast upon her way."</p>
+
+<p>For several days while sailing near the line we saw the constellations
+of both hemispheres, but heading north, we left those of the south at
+last, with the Southern Cross&mdash;most beautiful in all the heavens&mdash;to
+watch over a friend.</p>
+
+<p>Leaving these familiar southern stars and sailing toward constellations
+in the north, we hoist all sail to the cheery breeze which carries us
+on.</p>
+
+<p>In this pleasant state of sailing with our friends all about us, we
+stood on and on, never doubting once our pilot or our ship.</p>
+
+<p>A phantom of the stately <i>Aquidneck</i> appeared one night, sweeping by
+with crowning skysails set, that fairly brushed the stars. No apparition
+could have affected us more than the sight of this floating beauty, so
+like the <i>Aquidneck</i>, gliding swiftly and quietly by,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[Pg 92]</a></span> from her mission
+to some foreign land&mdash;she, too, was homeward bound!</p>
+
+<p>This incident of the <i>Aquidneck's</i> ghost, as it appeared to us, passing
+at midnight on the sea, left a pang of lonesomeness for a while.</p>
+
+<p>But a carrier dove came next day, and perched upon the mast, as if to
+tell that we had yet a friend! Welcome harbinger of good! you bring us
+thoughts of angels.</p>
+
+<p>The lovely visitor remained with us two days, off and on, but left for
+good on the third, when we reached away from Avis Island, to which,
+maybe, it was bound. Coming as it did from the east, and flying west
+toward the island when it left, bore out the idea of the lay of sweet
+singer Kingsley's "Last Buccaneer."</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<div>If I might but be a sea dove, I'd fly across the main</div>
+<div>To the pleasant Isle of Avis, to look at it once again.</div>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>The old Buccaneer, it may have been, but we regarded it as the little
+bird, which most likely it was, that sits up aloft to look out for poor
+"Jack."<a name="FNanchor_6_6" id="FNanchor_6_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a></p>
+
+<p>A moth, blown to our boat on the ocean, found shelter and a welcome
+there. The dove we secretly worshipped.</p>
+
+<p>With utmost confidence in our little craft, inspired by many thrilling
+events, we now carried sail, blow high, blow low, till at times she
+reeled along with a bone in her mouth quite to the mind of her mariners.
+Thinking one day that she might carry more sail on the mast already
+bending hopefully forward, and acting upon the liberal thought of sail,
+we made a wide mistake, for the mainmast went by the board, under the
+extra press and the foremast tripped over the bows. Then spars, booms,
+and sails swung alongside like the broken wings<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[Pg 93]</a></span> of a bird, but were
+grappled, however, and brought aboard without much loss of time. The
+broken mast was then secured and strengthened by "fishes" or splints
+after the manner in which doctors fish a broken limb.</p>
+
+<p>Both of the masts were very soon refitted and again made to carry sail,
+all they could stand; and we were again bowling along as before. We made
+that day a hundred and seventy-five miles, one of our best days' work.</p>
+
+<p>I protest here that my wife should not have cried "More sail! more
+sail!" when as it has been seen the canoe had on all the sail that she
+could carry. Nothing further happened to change the usual daily events
+until we reached Barbadoes. Flying-fish on the wing striking our sails,
+at night, often fell on deck, affording us many a toothsome fry. This
+happened daily, while sailing throughout the trade-wind regions. To be
+hit by one of these fish on the wing, which sometimes occurs, is no
+light matter, especially if the blow be on the face, as it may cause a
+bad bruise or even a black eye. The head of the flying-fish being rather
+hard makes it in fact a night slugger to be dreaded. They never come
+aboard in the daylight. The swift darting bill-fish, too, is a danger to
+be avoided in the tropics at night. They are met with mostly in the
+Pacific Ocean; therefore South Sea Islanders are loath to voyage during
+the "bill-fish season."</p>
+
+<p>As to the flight of these fishes, I would estimate that of the
+flying-fish as not exceeding fifteen feet in height, or five hundred
+yards of distance, often not half so much.</p>
+
+<p>Bill-fish, darting like an arrow from a bow, have, fortunately for
+sailors, not the power or do not rise much above the level of the waves,
+and cannot dart further,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[Pg 94]</a></span> say, than two hundred and fifty feet,
+according to the day for jumping. Of the many swift fish in the sea, the
+dolphin, perhaps, is the most marvellous. Its oft-told beauty, too, is
+indeed remarkable. A few of these fleet racers were captured, on the
+voyage, but were found tough and rank; notwithstanding some eulogy on
+them by other epicures, we threw the mess away. Those hooked by my crew
+were perhaps the tyrrhena pirates "turned into dolphins" in the days of
+yore.</p>
+
+<p>On the 19th day from Pernambuco, early in the morning, we made Barbadoes
+away in the West. First, the blue, fertile hills, then green fields came
+into view, studded with many white buildings between sentries of giant
+wind-mills as old nearly as the hills. Barbadoes is the most pleasant
+island in the Antilles; to sail round its green fringe of coral sea is
+simply charming. We stood in to the coast, well to windward, sailing
+close in with the breakers so as to take in a view of the whole
+delightful panorama as we sailed along. By noon we rounded the south
+point of the island and shot into Carlysle Bay, completing the run from
+Pernambuco exactly in nineteen days. This was considerably more than an
+hundred miles a day. The true distance being augmented by the circuitous
+route we adopted made it 2,150 miles.</p>
+
+<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_5_5" id="Footnote_5_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_5_5"><span class="label">[5]</span></a> We had the pleasure of meeting this gentleman again on the
+voyage at Barbadoes, again at New London, and finally with delight we
+heard him lecture on his travels, at Newport, and saw there produced on
+the wall the very picture of the <i>Liberdade</i> taken by the doctor on the
+great ocean.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_6_6" id="Footnote_6_6"></a><a href="#FNanchor_6_6"><span class="label">[6]</span></a>
+</p>
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<div>There's a sweet little cherub that sits up aloft,</div>
+<div>To look out for a berth for poor Jack.&mdash;<i>Dibdin's Poems.</i></div>
+</div></div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[Pg 95]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XV" id="CHAPTER_XV"></a>CHAPTER XV</h2>
+
+<blockquote><p>At Barbadoes&mdash;Mayaguez&mdash;Crossing the Bahama Banks&mdash;The Gulf
+Stream&mdash;Arrival on the coast of South Carolina.</p></blockquote>
+
+<p>Many old friends and acquaintances came down to see us upon our arrival
+at Barbadoes, all curious to inspect the strange craft. While there our
+old friend, the <i>Palmer</i>, that we left at Bahia, came in to refit,
+having broken a mast "trying to beat us," so Garfield would have it. For
+all that we had beaten her by four days. Who then shall say that we
+anchored nights or spent much time hugging the shore? The <i>Condor</i> was
+also at Barbadoes in charge of an old friend, accompanied by a pleasant
+helpmeet and companion who had shared the perils of shipwreck with her
+husband the year before in a hurricane among the islands.</p>
+
+<p>Meeting so many of this class of old friends of vast and varied
+experiences gave contentment to our visit, and we concluded to remain
+over at this port till the hurricane season should pass. Our old friend,
+the <i>Finance</i>, too, came in, remaining but a few hours. However, she
+hurried away with her mails, homeward bound.</p>
+
+<p>The pleasant days at Barbadoes with its enchantment flew lightly by; and
+on the 7th of October we sailed, giving the hurricane season the benefit
+of eight days. The season is considered over on the 15th of that month.</p>
+
+<p>Passing thence through the Antilles into the Caribbean Sea, a new period
+of our voyage was begun. Fair breezes filled the sails of the
+<i>Liberdade</i> as we glided along over tranquil seas, scanning eagerly the
+islands as they<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[Pg 96]</a></span> came into view, dwelling on each, in our thoughts, as
+hallowed ground of the illustrious discoverers&mdash;the same now as seen by
+them! The birds, too, of "rare plumage," were there, flying from island
+to island, the same as seen by the discoverers; and the sea with fishes
+teemed, of every gorgeous hue, lending enchantment to the picture, not
+less beautiful than the splendour on the land and in the air to thrill
+the voyager now, the same as then; we ourselves had only to look to see
+them.</p>
+
+<p>Whether it was birds with fins, or fishes with wings, or neither of
+these that the old voyagers saw, they discovered yet enough to make them
+wonder and rejoice.</p>
+
+<p>"Mountains of sugar, and rivers of rum and flying-fish, was what I saw,
+mother," said the son on his return from a voyage to these islands.
+"John," said the enraptured mother, "you must be mistaken about the
+fish; now don't lie to me, John. Mountains of sugar, no doubt you saw,
+and even rivers of rum, my boy, but <i>flying-fish</i> could never be."</p>
+
+<p>And yet the <i>fish</i> were there.</p>
+
+<p>Among the islands of great interest which came in view, stretching along
+the Caribbean Sea, was that of Santa Cruz, the island famous for its
+brave, resolute women of days gone by, who, while their husbands were
+away, successfully defended home and happiness against Christian
+invaders, and for that reason were called fierce savages. I would fain
+have brought away some of the earth of the island in memory of those
+brave women. Small as our ship was, we could have afforded room in it
+for a memento thus consecrated; but the trades hauling somewhat to the
+northward so headed us off that we had to forgo the pleasure of landing
+on its shores.</p>
+
+<p>Pushing forward thence, we reached Porto Rico, the nearest land in our
+course from the Island of Brave<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[Pg 97]</a></span> Women, standing well in with the
+southeast capes. Sailing thence along the whole extent of the south
+coast, in waters as smooth as any mill pond, and past island scenery
+worth the perils of ten voyages to see, we landed, on the 12th of
+October, at Mayaguez in the west of the island, and there shook the
+kinks out of our bones by pleasant walks in tropic shades.</p>
+
+<p>Time, five days from Barbadoes; distance 570 miles.</p>
+
+<p>This was to be our last run among the trees in the West Indies, and we
+made the most of it. "Such a port for mariners I'll never see again!"
+The port officials, kind and polite, extended all becoming courtesies to
+the quaint "<i>barco piquina</i>."</p>
+
+<p>The American Consul, Mr. Christie, Danish Consul, Mr. Falby, and the
+good French Consul, vied in making our visit a pleasant one.</p>
+
+<p>Photographers at Mayaguez desiring a picture of the canoe with the crew
+on deck at a time when we felt inclined to rest in the shade on shore,
+put a negro on board to take the place of captain. The photographs taken
+then found their way to Paris and Madrid journals where, along with some
+flattering accounts, they were published, upon which it was remarked
+that the captain was a fine-looking fellow, but "awfully tanned!" The
+moke was rigged all ataunto for the occasion, and made a picture
+indicative of great physical strength, one not to be ashamed of, but he
+would have looked more like me, I must say, if they had turned him back
+to.</p>
+
+<p>We enjoyed long carriage drives over rich estates at Mayaguez. We saw
+with pain, however, that the atmosphere of the soldier hung over all,
+pervading the whole air like a pestilence.</p>
+
+<p>Musketed and sabred and uniformed in their bed-ticking suits; hated by
+the residents and despised by<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[Pg 98]</a></span> themselves, they doggedly marched,
+counter-marched and wheeled, knowing that they are loathsome in the
+island, and that their days in the New World are numbered. The sons of
+the colonies are too civil and Christianlike to be ruled always by sword
+and gun.</p>
+
+<p>On the 15th of October, after three days' rest, we took in, as usual
+before sailing from ports, sufficient fresh supplies to carry us to the
+port steered for next, then set sail from pleasant Mayaguez, and bore
+away for the old Bahama Channel, passing east of Hayti, thence along the
+north coast to the west extremity of the island, from which we took
+departure for the head-lands of Cuba, and followed that coast as far as
+Cardinas, where we took a final departure from the islands, regretting
+that we could not sail around them all.</p>
+
+<p>The region on the north side of Cuba is often visited by gales of great
+violence, making this the lee shore; a weather eye was therefore kept
+lifting, especially in the direction of their source, which is from
+north to nor'west. However, storms prevailed from other quarters, mostly
+from the east, bringing heavy squalls of wind, rain and thunder every
+afternoon, such as once heard will never be forgotten. Peal on peal of
+nature's artillery for a few hours, accompanied by vivid lightning, was
+on the cards for each day, then all would be serene again.</p>
+
+<p>The nights following these severe storms were always bright and
+pleasant, and the heavens would be studded with constellations of
+familiar, guiding stars.</p>
+
+<p>My crew had now no wish to bear up for port short of one on our own
+coast, but, impatient to see the North Star appear higher in the
+heavens, strung every nerve and trimmed every sail to hasten on.</p>
+
+<p>Nassau, the place to which letters had been directed to us, we forbore
+to visit. This departure from a programme which was made at the
+beginning was the only<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[Pg 99]</a></span> change that we made in the "charter party"
+throughout the voyage. There was no haphazard sailing on this voyage.
+Daily observations for determining latitude and longitude were
+invariably made unless the sun was obscured. The result of these
+astronomical observations were more reliable than one might suppose,
+from their being taken on a tittlish canoe. After a few days'
+practising, a very fair off-hand contact could be made, when the canoe
+rose on the crest of a wave, where manifestly would be found the best
+result. The observer's station was simply on the top of the cabin, where
+astride, like riding horseback, Victor and I took the "sights," and
+indeed became expert "snap observers" before the voyage ended.</p>
+
+<p>One night in the Bahama Channel, while booming along toward the Banks to
+the nor'west of us before stiff trades, I was called in the first watch
+by Victor, to come up quickly, for signs of the dread "norther" were in
+the sky. Our trusty barometer had been low, but was now on the cheerful
+side of change. This phenomenon disturbed me somewhat, till the
+discovery was made, as we came nearer, that it was but the reflection of
+the white banks on the sky that we saw, and no cause at all for alarm.</p>
+
+<p>Soon after this phenomenon the faint glimmer of Lobos Light was descried
+flickering on the horizon, two points on the weather bow. I changed the
+course three points to windward, having determined to touch at the small
+Cay where the lighthouse stands; one point being allowed for leeway,
+which I found was not too much.</p>
+
+<p>Three hours later we fetched in under the lee of the reef, or Cay, as it
+is commonly called, and came to in one and a half fathoms of water in
+good shelter.</p>
+
+<p>We beheld then overhead in wonderful beauty what had awed us from the
+distance in the early night&mdash;a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[Pg 100]</a></span> chart of the illuminating banks marked
+visibly on the heavens.</p>
+
+<p>We furled sails and, setting a light in the rigging, turned in; for it
+lacked three hours yet of daylight. And what an interesting experience
+ours had been in the one short night! By the break of day my crew were
+again astir, preparing to land and fill water at a good landing which we
+now perceived farther around the point to leeward, where the surf was
+moderate.</p>
+
+<p>On the Cay is stored some hundred thousand gallons of rain water in
+cisterns at the base of the iron tower which carries the light; one that
+we saw from the canoe at a distance of fourteen miles.</p>
+
+<p>The keeper of the light, a hardy native of Nassau, when he discovered
+the new arrival at his "island," hoisted the British Board of Trade flag
+on a pole in the centre of this, his little world, then he came forward
+to speak us, thinking at first, he said, that we were shipwrecked
+sailors, which indeed we were, but not in distress, as he had supposed
+when hoisting the flag, which signified assistance for distressed
+seamen. On learning our story, however, he regarded us with grave
+suspicions, and refused water to Victor, who had already landed with
+buckets, telling him that the captain would have to bring his papers
+ashore and report. The mate's report would not be taken. Thus in a
+moment was transformed the friend in need to <i>governor of an island</i>.
+This amused me greatly, and I sent back word to my veritable Sancho
+Panza that in my many voyages to islands my mate had attended to the
+customs reports; at which his Excellency chafed considerably, giving the
+gunnels of his trousers a fitful tug up now and then as he paced the
+beach, waiting my compliance with the rules of the island. The governor,
+I perceived, was suspicious of smugglers and wreckers, apparently
+under<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[Pg 101]</a></span>standing their ways, if, indeed, even he were not a reformed
+pirate himself.</p>
+
+<p>However, to humour the punctiliousness of his Excellency, now that he
+was governor of an island, I placed my papers in my hat, and, leaping
+into the surf, waded ashore, where I was received as by a monarch.</p>
+
+<p>The document I presented was the original <i>Passe Especial</i>, the one with
+the big seal on it, written in Portuguese; had it been in Choct&agrave;w the
+governor would have read it with the same facility that he did this,
+which he stared at knowingly and said, "all right, take all the water
+you want; it is free."</p>
+
+<p>I lodged a careful report of the voyage with the governor and explained
+to his Excellency the whereabouts of the "Island of Rio," as his grace
+persistently called Rio de Janeiro, whence dated my papers.</p>
+
+<p>Conversing on the subject of islands, which was all the world to him,
+the governor viewed with suspicion the absence of a word in my
+documents, referring even to an islet; this, in his mind, was a
+reprehensible omission; for surely New York, to which the papers
+referred, was built on an island. Upon this I offered to swear to the
+truth of my clearance, "as far as known to me," after the manner of
+cheap custom-house swearing with which shipmasters, in some parts of the
+world, are made familiar. "Not on the island!" quickly exclaimed the
+governor, "'for thou shalt not disglorify God's name,' is written in the
+Bible."</p>
+
+<p>I assured the governor of my appreciation of his pious sentiment of not
+over-swearing,&mdash;a laudable plan that even the Chinese adopt as a policy,
+and one that I would speak of on my return home, to the end that we all
+emulate the laws of the island; whereupon the governor, greatly pleased,
+urged me to take some more water, minding me again that it was free.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[Pg 102]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>In a very few minutes I got all the water I wished for; also some aurora
+shells from the governor's lady, who had arisen with the sun to grace
+the day and of all things most appropriate held in her generous lap
+beautiful aurora shells for which&mdash;to spoil the poem&mdash;I bartered
+cocoa-nuts and rusty gnarly yams.</p>
+
+<p>The lady was on a visit only to her lord and master, the monarch of all
+he surveyed. Beside this was their three children also on a visit, from
+Nassau, and two assistant keepers of the light which made up the total
+of this little world in the ocean.</p>
+
+<p>It was the smallest kingdom I had ever visited, peopled by happy human
+beings and the most isolated by far.</p>
+
+<p>The few blades of grass which had struggled into existence, not enough
+to support a goat, was all there was to look at on the island except the
+lighthouse, and the sand and themselves.</p>
+
+<p>Some small buildings and a flagstaff had once adorned the place, but
+together with a coop of chickens, the only stock of the
+islanders&mdash;except a dog&mdash;had been swept away by a hurricane which had
+passed over the island a short time before. The water for which we had
+called being now in the canoe, and my people on board waiting for me, I
+bade the worthy governor good-bye, and, saluting his charming island
+queen in a seaman-like manner, hastened back to my own little world; and
+bore away once more for the north. Sailing thence over the Great Bahama
+Banks, in a crystal sea, we observed on the white marl bottom many
+curious living things, among them the conch in its house of exquisite
+tints and polished surface, the star-fish with radiated dome of curious
+construction, and many more denizens of the place, the names of which I
+could not tell, resting on the soft white bed under the sea.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[Pg 103]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>"They who go down to the sea in ships, they see the wonders of the
+Lord," I am reminded by a friend who writes me, on receipt of some of
+these curious things which I secured on the voyage, adding: "For all
+these curious and beautiful things are His handiwork. Who can look at
+such things without the heart being lifted up in adoration?"</p>
+
+<p>For words like these what sailor is there who would not search the caves
+of the ocean? Words too, from a lady.</p>
+
+<p>Two days of brisk sailing over the white Bahama Banks brought us to
+Bimini. Thence a mere push would send us to the coast of our own native
+America. The wind in the meantime hauling from regular nor'east trade to
+the sou'west, as we came up to Bimini, promising a smooth passage
+across, we launched out at once on the great Gulf Stream, and were swept
+along by its restless motion, making on the first day, before the wind
+and current, two hundred and twenty miles. This was great getting along
+for a small canoe. Going at the same high rate of speed on the second
+night in the stream, the canoe struck a spar and went over it with a
+bound. Her keel was shattered by the shock, but finally shaking the
+crippled timber clear of herself she came on quite well without it. No
+other damage was done to our craft, although at times her very ribs were
+threatened before clearing this lively ocean river. In the middle of the
+current, where the seas were yet mountainous but regular, we went along
+with a wide, swinging motion and fared well enough; but on nearing the
+edge of the stream a confused sea was met with, standing all on end, in
+every which way, beyond a sailor's comprehension. The motion of the
+<i>Liberdade</i> was then far from poetical or pleasant. The wind, in the
+meantime, had chopped round to the nor'east, dead<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[Pg 104]</a></span> ahead; being thus
+against the current, a higher and more confused sea than ever was heaped
+up, giving us some uneasiness. We had, indeed, several unwelcome
+visitors come tumbling aboard of our craft, one of which furiously
+crashing down on her made all of her timbers bend and creak. However, I
+could partially remedy this danger by changing the course.</p>
+
+<p>"Seas like that can't break this boat," said our young boatswain; "she's
+built strong." It was well to find among the crew this feeling of
+assurance in the gallant little vessel. I, too, was confident in her
+seaworthiness. Nevertheless, I shortened sail and brought her to the
+wind, watching the lulls and easing her over the combers, as well as I
+could. But wrathful Neptune was not to let us so easily off, for the
+next moment a sea swept clean over the helmsman, wetting him through to
+the skin and, most unkind cut of all, it put out our fire, and capsized
+the hash and stove into the bottom of the canoe. This left us with but a
+<i>damper</i> for breakfast! Matters mended, however, as the day advanced,
+and for supper we had a grand and glorious feast. Early in the afternoon
+we made the land and got into smooth water. This of itself was a feast,
+to our minds.</p>
+
+<p>The land we now saw lying before us was hills of America, which we had
+sailed many thousands of miles to see. Drawing in with the coast, we
+made out, first the broad, rich forests, then open fields and villages,
+with many signs of comfort on every hand. We found it was the land about
+Bull's Bay on the coast of South Carolina, and night coming on, we could
+plainly see Cape Roman Light to the north of us. The wind falling light
+as we drew in with the coast, and finding a current against us, we
+anchored, about two miles from the shore, in four fathoms of water. It
+was now 8 p.m., October 28,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[Pg 105]</a></span> 1888, thirteen days from Mayaguez,
+twenty-one days from Barbadoes, etc.</p>
+
+<p>The following was the actual time at sea and distances in nautical miles
+from point to point on the courses steered, approximately:</p>
+
+<table border='0' cellspacing='0' cellpadding='5' summary='time at sea and distances'>
+  <tr>
+    <td></td>
+    <td><i>Days.</i></td>
+    <td><i>Distance.</i></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td>From Paranagua to Santos</td>
+    <td align='right'>1</td>
+    <td align='right'>150</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td> &nbsp; &nbsp; " &nbsp; &nbsp; Santos to Rio de Janeiro<br /> &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; (towed by <i>Finance</i>)</td>
+    <td align='right'>&frac34;</td>
+    <td align='right'>200</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td> &nbsp; &nbsp; " &nbsp; &nbsp; Rio to Cape Frio</td>
+    <td align='right'>2</td>
+    <td align='right'>70</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td> &nbsp; &nbsp; " &nbsp; &nbsp; Cape Frio to Carvellas</td>
+    <td align='right'>4</td>
+    <td align='right'>370</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td> &nbsp; &nbsp; " &nbsp; &nbsp; Carvellas to Saint Paulo</td>
+    <td align='right'>3</td>
+    <td align='right'>270</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td> &nbsp; &nbsp; " &nbsp; &nbsp; Saint Paulo to Bahia</td>
+    <td align='right'>&frac12;</td>
+    <td align='right'>40</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td> &nbsp; &nbsp; " &nbsp; &nbsp; Bahia to Pernambuco</td>
+    <td align='right'>5</td>
+    <td align='right'>390</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td> &nbsp; &nbsp; " &nbsp; &nbsp; Pernambuco to Barbadoes</td>
+    <td align='right'>19</td>
+    <td align='right'>2,150</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td> &nbsp; &nbsp; " &nbsp; &nbsp; Barbadoes to Mayaguez</td>
+    <td align='right'>5</td>
+    <td align='right'>570</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td> &nbsp; &nbsp; " &nbsp; &nbsp; Mayaguez to Cape Roman</td>
+    <td align='right'>13</td>
+    <td align='right'>1,300</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td></td>
+    <td align='right'>&mdash;</td>
+    <td align='right'>&mdash;&mdash;</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td></td>
+    <td align='right'>53&frac14;</td>
+    <td align='right'>5,510</td>
+  </tr>
+
+
+</table>
+
+<p>Computing all the distances of the ins and outs that we made would
+considerably augment the sum. To say, therefore, that the <i>Liberdade</i>
+averaged a hundred and three miles a day for fifty-three days would be
+considerably inside the truth.</p>
+
+<p>This was the voyage made in the boat which cost less than a hundred
+dollars outside of our own labour of building. Journals the world over
+have spoken not unkindly of the feat; encomiums in seven languages
+reached us through the newspapers while we lay moored in Washington.
+Should the same good fortune that followed the <i>Liberdade</i> attend this
+little literary craft, when finished, it would go safe into many lands.
+Without looking, however, to this mark of good fortune, the journal of
+the voyage has been as carefully constructed as was the <i>Liberdade</i>, and
+I trust, as conscientiously, by a hand, alas! that has grasped the
+sextant more often than<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[Pg 106]</a></span> the plane or pen, and for the love of doing.
+This apology might have been more appropriately made in the beginning of
+the journal, maybe, but it comes to me now, and like many other things
+done, right or wrong, but done on the impulse of the moment, I put it
+down.</p>
+
+<hr />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[Pg 107]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XVI" id="CHAPTER_XVI"></a>CHAPTER XVI</h2>
+
+<blockquote><p>Ocean Currents&mdash;Visit to South Santee&mdash;At the Typee
+River&mdash;Quarantined&mdash;South Port and Wilmington, N.C.&mdash;Inland sailing
+to Beaufort, Norfolk and Washington, D.C.&mdash;Voyage ended.</p></blockquote>
+
+<p>No one will be more surprised at the complete success of the voyage and
+the speedy progress made than were we ourselves who made it.</p>
+
+<p>A factor of the voyage, one that helped us forward greatly, and which is
+worthy of special mention, was the ocean current spoken of as we came
+along in its friendly sway.</p>
+
+<p>Many are the theories among fresh-water philosophists respecting these
+currents, but in practical sailing, where the subject is met with in its
+tangible form, one cause only is recognized; namely, the action of the
+wind on the surface of the water, pushing the waves along. Out on the
+broad ocean the effect at first is hardly perceptible, but the constant
+trades, sending countless millions of waves in one direction, cause at
+last a mighty moving power, which the mariner meets sometimes as an
+enemy to retard and delay, sometimes as a friend, as in our case, to
+help him on his way. These are views from a practical experience with no
+theory to prove.</p>
+
+<p>By daylight on the twenty-ninth, we weighed anchor and set sail again
+for the north. The wind and current were still adverse, but we kept near
+the land, making short boards off and on through the day where the
+current had least effect. And when night came on again we closed in once
+more with Cape Roman light. Next day we worked up under the lee of the
+Roman<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[Pg 108]</a></span> shoals and made harbour in South Santee, a small river to the
+north of Cape Roman, within range of the light, there to rest until the
+wind should change, it being still ahead.</p>
+
+<p>Next morning, since the wind had not changed, we weighed anchor and
+stood farther into the river looking for inhabitants, that we might
+listen to voices other than our own. Our search was soon rewarded, for,
+coming around a point of woodland, a farmhouse stood before us on the
+river side. We came alongside the bank and jumped ashore, but hardly had
+we landed when, as out of the earth, a thousand dogs, so it seemed,
+sprung up threatening to devour us all. However, a comely woman came out
+of the house and it was explained to the satisfaction of all, especially
+to a persistent cur, by a vigorous whack on the head with a cudgel, that
+our visit was a friendly one; then all was again peaceful and quiet. The
+good man was in the field close by, but soon came home accompanied by
+his two stalwart sons each "toting" a sack of corn. We found the
+Andersons&mdash;this was the family name&mdash;isolated in every sense of the
+word, and as primitive as heart could wish. The charming simplicity of
+these good people captivated my crew. We met others along the coast
+innocent of greed, but of all unselfish men, Anderson the elder was
+surely the prince.</p>
+
+<p>Purchasing some truck from this good man, we found that change could not
+be made for the dollar which I tendered in payment. But I protested that
+I was more than content to let the few odd cents go, having received
+more garden stuff than I had ever seen offered for a dollar in any part
+of the world. And indeed I was satisfied. The farmer, however, nothing
+content, offered me a coon skin or two, but these I didn't want, and
+there being no other small change about the farm, the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[Pg 109]</a></span> matter was
+dropped, I thought, for good, and I had quite forgotten it, when later
+in the evening I was electrified by his offering to carry a letter for
+us which we wished posted, some seven miles away, and call it "square,"
+against the twenty cents of the morning's transaction. The letter went,
+and in due course of time we got an answer.</p>
+
+<p>I do not say that we stuck strictly to the twenty-cent transaction, but
+I fear that not enough was paid to fair-dealing Anderson. However, all
+were at last satisfied and warming into conversation, a log fire was
+improvised and social chat went round.</p>
+
+<p>These good people could hardly understand how it was, as I explained,
+that the Brazilians had freed the slaves and had no war, Mr. Anderson
+often exclaiming, "Well, well, I d'clar. Freed the niggers, and had no
+wah. Mister," said he, turning to me after a long pause, "mister, d'ye
+know the South were foolish? They had a wah, and they had to free the
+niggers, too."</p>
+
+<p>"Oh, yes, mister, I was thar! Over thar beyond them oaks was my house."</p>
+
+<p>"Yes, mister, I fought, too, and fought hard, but it warn't no use."</p>
+
+<p>Like many a hard fighter, Anderson, too, was a pious man, living in a
+state of resignation to be envied. His years of experience on the new
+island farm had been hard and trying in the extreme. My own misfortunes
+passed into shade as the harder luck of the Andersons came before my
+mind, and the resolution which I had made to buy a farm was now shaken
+and finally dissolved into doubts of the wisdom of such a course. On
+this farm they had first "started in to raise pork," but found that it
+"didn't pay, for the pigs got wild and had to be gathered with the
+dogs," and by the time they were "gathered and then toted, salt would
+hardly cure<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[Pg 110]</a></span> them, and they most generally tainted." The enterprise was
+therefore abandoned, for that of tilling the soil, and a crop was put
+in, but "the few pigs which the dogs had not gathered came in at night
+and rooted out all the taters." It then appeared that a fence should be
+built. "Accordingly," said he, "the boys and I made one which kept out
+the stock, but, sir, the rats could get in! They took every tater out of
+the ground! From all that I put in, and my principal work was thar, I
+didn't see a sprout." How it happened that the rats had left the crop
+the year before for their relations&mdash;the pigs&mdash;was what seemed most to
+bother the farmer's mind. Nevertheless, "there was corn in Egypt yet";
+and at the family circle about the board that night a smile of hope
+played on the good farmer's face, as in deep sincerity he asked that for
+what they had they might be made truly thankful. We learned a lesson of
+patience from this family, and were glad that the wind had carried us to
+their shore.</p>
+
+<p>Said the farmer, "And you came all the way from Brazil in that boat!
+Wife, she won't go to Georgetown in the batto that I built because it
+rares too much. And they freed the niggers and had no wah! Well, well, I
+d'clar!"</p>
+
+<p>Better folks we may never see than the farmers of South Santee. Bidding
+them good-bye next morning at early dawn we sailed before a light land
+wind which, however, soon petered out.</p>
+
+<p>The S.S. <i>Planter</i> then coming along took us in tow for Georgetown,
+where she was bound. We had not the pleasure, however, of visiting the
+beloved old city; for having some half dozen cocoa-nuts on board, the
+remainder of small stores of the voyage, a vigilant officer stopped us
+at the quarantine ground. Fruit not being admitted into South Carolina
+until after the first of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[Pg 111]</a></span> November, and although it was now late in the
+afternoon of the first, we had to ride quarantine that night, with a
+promise, however, of <i>pratique</i> next morning. But there was no steamer
+going up the river the next day. The <i>Planter</i> coming down though
+supplied us with some small provisions, such as were not procurable at
+the Santee farm. Then putting to sea we beat along slowly against wind
+and current.</p>
+
+<p>We began now to experience, as might be expected, autumn gales of
+considerable violence, the heaviest of which overtaking us at Frying-pan
+Shoal, drove us back to leeward of Cape Fear for shelter. South Port and
+Wilmington being then so near we determined to visit both places. Two
+weeks at these ports refreshed the crew and made all hands willing for
+sea again.</p>
+
+<p>Sailing thence through Corn-cake Inlet we cut off Cape Fear and the
+Frying-pan Shoals, being of mind to make for the inlets along the
+Carolina coast and to get into the inland waters as soon as practicable.</p>
+
+<p>It was our good fortune to fall in with an old and able pilot at
+Corn-cake Inlet, one Capt. Bloodgood, who led the way through the
+channel in his schooner, the <i>Packet</i>, a Carolina pitch and cotton
+droger of forty tons register, which was manned solely by the captain
+and his two sons, one twelve and the other ten years old. It was in the
+crew that I became most interested, and not the schooner. Bloodgood gave
+the order when the tide served for us to put to sea. "Come, children,"
+said he, "let's try it." Then we all tried it together, the <i>Packet</i>
+leading the way. The shaky west wind, that filled our sails as we
+skimmed along the beach with the breakers close aboard, carried us but a
+few leagues when it flew suddenly round to nor'east and began to pipe.</p>
+
+<p>The gale increasing rapidly inclined me to bear up for New River Inlet,
+then close under our lee, with a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[Pg 112]</a></span> treacherous bar lying in front, which
+to cross safely would require great care.</p>
+
+<p>But the gale was threatening, and the harbour inside, we could see, was
+smooth; then, too, cried my people: "Any port in a storm." I decided
+prompt; put the helm up and squared away. Flying thence, before it, the
+tempest-tossed canoe came sweeping in from sea over the rollers in a
+delightfully thrilling way. One breaker only coming over us, and even
+that did no harm more than to give us all the climax soaking of the
+voyage. This was the last sea that broke over the canoe on the memorable
+voyage.</p>
+
+<p>The harbour inside the bar of New River was good. Adding much to our
+comfort too was fish and game in abundance.</p>
+
+<p>The <i>Packet</i>, which had parted from us, made her destined port some
+three leagues farther on. The last we saw of the children, they were at
+the main sheets hauling aft, and their father was at the helm, and all
+were flying through the mist like fearless sailors.</p>
+
+<p>After meeting Carolina seamen, to say nothing of the few still in
+existence further north, I challenge the story of Greek supremacy.</p>
+
+<p>The little town of South Port was made up almost entirely of pilots
+possessing, I am sure, every quality of the sailor and the gentleman.</p>
+
+<p>Moored snug in the inlet, it was pleasant to listen to the roar of the
+breakers on the bar, but not so cheerful was the thought of facing the
+high waves seaward. Therefore the plan suggested itself of sufficiently
+deepening a ditch that led through the marshes from New River to Bogue
+Sound, to let us through; thence we could sail inland the rest of the
+voyage without obstruction or hindrance of any kind. To this end we set
+about contrivances to heave the canoe over the shoals, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[Pg 113]</a></span> borrowed a
+shovel from a friendly schooner captain to deepen the ditch which we
+thought would be necessary to do in order to ford her along that way.
+However, the prevailing nor'east gales had so raised the water in the
+west end of the sound as to fill all the creeks and ditches to
+overflowing. I hesitated then no longer, but heading for the ditch
+through the marshes on a high tide, before a brave west wind took the
+chances of getting through by hook or by crook or by shovel and spade if
+required.</p>
+
+<p>The "Coast Pilot," in speaking of this place, says there is never more
+than a foot of water there, and even that much is rarely found. The
+<i>Liberdade</i> essayed the ditch, drawing two feet and four inches, thus
+showing the further good fortune or luck which followed perseverance, as
+it usually does, though sometimes, maybe, it is bad luck! Perhaps I am
+not lucid on this, which at best must remain a disputed point.</p>
+
+<p>I was getting lost in the maze of sloughs and creeks, which as soon as I
+entered seemed to lead in every direction but the right one. Hailing a
+hunter near by, however, I was soon put straight and reassured of
+success. The most astonished man, though, in North Carolina, was this
+same hunter when asked if he knew the ditch that led through where I
+wished to go.</p>
+
+<p>"Why, stranger," said he, "my gran'ther digged that ditch."</p>
+
+<p>I jumped, I leaped! at thought of what a pilot this man would be.</p>
+
+<p>"Well, stranger," said he, in reply to my query, "stranger, if any man
+kin take y' thro' that ditch, why, I kin"; adding doubtfully, however,
+"I have not hearn tell befo' of a vessel from Brazil sailing through
+these parts; but then you mout get through, and again ye moutent. Well,
+it's jist here; you mout and you moutent."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[Pg 114]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>A bargain was quickly made, and my pilot came aboard, armed with a long
+gun, which as we sailed along proved a terror to ducks. The entrance to
+the ditch, then close by, was made with a flowing sheet, and I soon
+found that my pilot knew his business. Rush-swamps and corn-fields we
+left to port and to starboard, and were at times out of sight among
+brakes that brushed crackling along the sides of the canoe, as she swept
+briskly through the narrows, passing them all, with many a close hug,
+though, on all sides. At a point well on in the crooked channel my pilot
+threw up his hat, and shouted, with all his might:</p>
+
+<p>"Yer trouble is over! Swan to gosh if it ain't! And ye come all the way
+from Brazil, and come through gran'ther's ditch! Well, I d'clar!"</p>
+
+<p>From this I concluded that we had cleared all the doubtful places, and
+so it turned out. Before sundown my pilot was looking for the change of
+a five-dollar-piece; and we of the <i>Liberdade</i> sat before a pot-pie, at
+twilight, the like of which on the whole voyage had not been tasted,
+from sea fowl laid about by our pilot while sailing through the meadows
+and marshes. And the pilot himself, returning while the pot-pie was yet
+steaming hot, declared it "ahead of coon."</p>
+
+<p>A pleasant sail was this through the ditch that gran'ther dug. At the
+camp fire that night, where we hauled up by a fishing station, thirty
+stalwart men talked over the adventures of their lives. My pilot, the
+best speaker, kept the camp in roars. As for myself, always fond of
+mirth, I got up from the fire sore from laughing. Their curious
+adventures with coons and 'gators recounted had been considerable.</p>
+
+<p>Many startling stories were told. But frequently reverting to the voyage
+of the <i>Liberdade</i>, they declared with one voice that "it was the
+greatest thing since the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[Pg 115]</a></span> wah." I took this as a kind of complimentary
+hospitality. "When she struck on a sand reef," said the pilot, "why, the
+captain he jumped right overboard and the son he jumped right over, too,
+to tote her over, and the captain's wife she holp."</p>
+
+<p>By daylight next morning we sailed from this camp pleasant, and on the
+following day, November 28, at noon, arrived at Beaufort.</p>
+
+<p>Mayor Bell of that city and many of his townfolk met us at the wharf,
+and gave me as well as my sea-tossed crew a welcome to their shores,
+such as to make us feel that the country was partly ours.</p>
+
+<p>"Welcome, welcome home," said the good mayor; "we have read of your
+adventures, and watched your progress as reported from time to time,
+with deep interest and sympathy."</p>
+
+<p>So we began to learn now that prayers on shore had gone up for the
+little canoe at sea. This was indeed America and home, for which we had
+longed while thousands of miles across the ocean.</p>
+
+<p>From Beaufort to Norfolk and thence to Washington was pleasant inland
+sailing, with prevailing fair winds and smooth sea. Christmas was spent
+on the Chesapeake&mdash;a fine, enjoyable day it was! with not a white-cap
+ripple on the bay. Ducks swimming ahead of the canoe as she moved
+quietly along were loath to take wing in so light a breeze, but flapping
+away, half paddling and half flying, as we came toward them, they
+managed to keep a long gun-shot off; but having laid in at the last port
+a turkey of no mean proportions, which we made shift to roast in the
+"caboose" aboard, we could look at a duck without wishing its
+destruction. With this turkey and a bountiful plum duff, we made out a
+dinner even on the <i>Liberdade</i>.</p>
+
+<p>Of the many Christmas days that come crowding in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[Pg 116]</a></span> my recollections now;
+days spent on the sea and in foreign lands, as falls to the lot of
+sailors&mdash;which was the merriest it would be hard to say. Of this,
+however, I am certain, that the one on board the <i>Liberdade</i> on the
+Chesapeake was not the least happy of them all.</p>
+
+<p>The day following Christmas found us on the Potomac, enjoying the same
+fine weather and abundant good cheer of the day before. Fair winds
+carried us through all the reaches of the river, and the same prosperity
+which attended our little bark in the beginning of the voyage through
+tempestuous weather followed her to the end of the voyage, which
+terminated in mild days and pleasant sunshine.</p>
+
+<p>On the 27th of December, 1888, a south wind bore us into harbour at
+Washington, D.C., there we moored for the winter, furled our sails and
+coiled up the ropes, after a voyage of joys and sorrows, crowned with
+pleasures, however, which lessened the pain of past regrets.</p>
+
+<p>Having moored the <i>Liberdade</i> and weather-bitted her cables, it remains
+only to be said that after bringing us safely through the dangers of a
+tropical voyage, clearing reefs, shoals, breakers, and all storms
+without a serious accident of any kind, we learned to love the little
+canoe as well as anything could be loved that is made by hands.</p>
+
+<p>To say that we had not a moment of ill-health on the voyage would not
+tell the whole story.</p>
+
+<p>My wife, brave enough to face the worst storms, as women are sometimes
+known to do on sea and on land, enjoyed not only the best of health, but
+had gained a richer complexion.</p>
+
+<p>Victor, at the end of the voyage, found that he had grown an inch and
+had not been frightened out of his boots.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[Pg 117]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Little Garfield&mdash;well he had grown some, too, and continued to be a
+pretty good boy and had managed to hold his grip through many ups and
+downs. He it was who stood by the bow line to make fast as quick as the
+<i>Liberdade</i> came to the pier at the end of the voyage.</p>
+
+<p>And I, last, as it should be, lost a few pounds' weight, but like the
+rest landed in perfect health; taking it altogether, therefore, only
+pleasant recollections of the voyage remain with us who made it.</p>
+
+<p>With all its vicissitudes I still love a life on the broad, free ocean,
+never regretting the choice of my profession.</p>
+
+<p>However, the time has come to debark from the <i>Liberdade</i>, now breasted
+to the pier where I leave her for a time; for my people are landed safe
+in port.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr />
+<h2><a name="DISPOSAL_OF_THE_LIBERDADE" id="DISPOSAL_OF_THE_LIBERDADE"></a>DISPOSAL OF THE LIBERDADE</h2>
+
+<p>About the middle of April the <i>Liberdade</i> cast loose her moorings from
+the dock at Washington, and spreading sail before a brave west wind,
+bent her course along down the Potomac with the same facility as
+experienced in December coming up before a wind from the South; then
+shaping her course for New York via Baltimore and Philadelphia through
+inland passages, the voyage was turned into a pleasure excursion.
+Animation of spring clothed the landscape on all sides in its greatest
+beauty; and our northern forest the voyagers found upon their return was
+not less charming than "tropic shade" of foreign climes. And the robin
+sang even a sweeter trill than ever before heard by the crew, for they
+listened to it now in the country that they loved.</p>
+
+<p>From New York, the <i>Liberdade</i> sailed for Boston via New London, New
+Bedford, Martha's Vineyard, New<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[Pg 118]</a></span>port, and Taunton, at which latter place
+she hauled out, and the crew, thence to the Bay State Capital, enjoyed
+the novelty of a "sail over land."</p>
+
+<p>Then the <i>Liberdade</i> moored snug in Boston and her crew spent the winter
+again among friends. They met here during this time the man who advised
+the captain at Buenos Aires to pitch the <i>Aquidneck's</i> cargo of hay into
+the sea; for not taking the advice&mdash;witness, alas! the captain's plight!</p>
+
+<p>Finally, upon return of spring, the <i>Liberdade</i> was refitted on a voyage
+retracing her course to Washington, where, following safe arrival, she
+will end her days in the Smithsonian Institution; a haven of honour that
+many will be glad to know she has won.</p>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's Voyage of the Liberdade, by Captain Joshua Slocum
+
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+Project Gutenberg's Voyage of the Liberdade, by Captain Joshua Slocum
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Voyage of the Liberdade
+
+Author: Captain Joshua Slocum
+
+Release Date: June 9, 2006 [EBook #18541]
+[Last updated: February 6, 2021]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK VOYAGE OF THE LIBERDADE ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by David Garcia, Martin Pettit and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+VOYAGE OF THE LIBERDADE
+
+
+Captain Joshua Slocum
+
+
+
+
+Robinson & Stephenson Boston 1890
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+CHAPTER I: PAGE 1
+
+The ship--The crew--A hurricane--Cape Verde Islands--Frio--A _pampeiro_.
+
+
+CHAPTER II: PAGE 8
+
+Montevideo--Beggars--Antonina for mate--Antonina to Buenos Aires--The
+_bombelia_.
+
+
+CHAPTER III: PAGE 11
+
+Salvage of a cargo of wine--Sailors happy--Cholera in the
+Argentine--Death in the land--Dutch Harry--Pete the Greek--Noted
+crimps--Boat lost--Sail for Ilha Grande--Expelled from the port--Serious
+hardships.
+
+
+CHAPTER IV: PAGE 20
+
+Ilha Grande decree--Return to Rosario--Waiting opening of the Brazilian
+ports--Scarcity of sailors--Buccaneers turned pilots--Sail down the
+river--Arrive at Ilha Grande the second time--Quarantined and
+fumigated--Admitted to _pratique_--Sail for Rio--Again challenged--Rio
+at last.
+
+
+CHAPTER V: PAGE 27
+
+At Rio--Sail for Antonina with mixed cargo--A _pampeiro_--Ship on
+beam-ends--Cargo still more mixed--Topgallant-masts carried away--Arrive
+safely at Antonina.
+
+
+CHAPTER VI: PAGE 30
+
+Mutiny--Attempt at robbery and murder--Four against one--Two go down
+before a rifle--Order restored.
+
+
+CHAPTER VII: PAGE 37
+
+Join the bark at Montevideo--A good crew--Small-pox breaks out--Bear up
+for Maldonado and Floras--No aid--Death of sailors--To Montevideo in
+distress--Quarantine.
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII: PAGE 46
+
+A new crew--Sail for Antonina--Load timber--Native canoes--Loss of the
+_Aquidneck_.
+
+
+CHAPTER IX: PAGE 51
+
+The building of the _Liberdade_.
+
+
+CHAPTER X: PAGE 63
+
+Across the bar--The run to Santos--Tow to Rio by the steamship--At Rio.
+
+
+CHAPTER XI: PAGE 70
+
+Sail from Rio--Anchor at Cape Frio--Encounter with a whale--Sunken
+treasure--The schoolmaster--The merchant--The good people at the
+village--A pleasant visit.
+
+
+CHAPTER XII: PAGE 76
+
+Sail from Frio--Round Cape St. Thorne--High seas and swift currents--In
+the "trades"--Dangerous reefs--Run into harbour unawares, on a dark and
+stormy night--At Garavellas--Fine weather--A gale--Port St.
+Paulo--Treacherous natives--Sail for Bahia.
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII: PAGE 81
+
+At Bahia--Meditations on the discoverers--The Caribbees.
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV: PAGE 84
+
+Bahia to Pernambuco--The meeting of the _Finance_ at sea--At
+Pernambuco--Round Cape St. Roque--A gale--Breakers--The stretch to
+Barbadoes--Flying-fish alighting on deck--Dismasted--Arrive at Carlysle
+Bay.
+
+
+CHAPTER XV: PAGE 95
+
+At Barbadoes--Mayaguez--Crossing the Bahama Banks--The Gulf
+Stream--Arrival on the coast of South Carolina.
+
+
+CHAPTER XVI: PAGE 107
+
+Ocean Currents--Visit to South Santee--At the Typee
+River--Quarantined--South Port and Wilmington, N.C.--Inland sailing to
+Beaufort, Norfolk and Washington, D.C.--Voyage ended.
+
+
+DISPOSAL OF THE LIBERDADE: PAGE 117
+
+
+
+
+LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+
+Diagram of the _Liberdade_                                52
+
+The _Liberdade_                                           62
+
+
+MAP
+
+Course of the _Liberdade_ from Paranagua to Barbadoes     69
+
+
+
+
+GREETING
+
+
+This literary craft of mine, in its native model and rig, goes out laden
+with the facts of the strange happenings on a home afloat. Her
+constructor, a sailor for many years, could have put a whole cargo of
+salt, so to speak, in the little packet; but would not so wantonly
+intrude on this domain of longshore navigators. Could the author and
+constructor but box-haul, club-haul, tops'l-haul, and catharpin like the
+briny sailors of the strand, ah me!--and hope to be forgiven!
+
+Be the current against us, what matters it? Be it in our favour, we are
+carried hence, to what place or for what purpose? Our plan of the whole
+voyage is so insignificant that it matters little, maybe, whither we go,
+for the "grace of a day" is the same! Is it not a recognition of this
+which makes the old sailor happy, though in the storm; and hopeful even
+on a plank in mid-ocean? Surely it is this! for the spiritual beauty of
+the sea, absorbing man's soul, permits of no infidels on its boundless
+expanse.
+
+                                                          THE AUTHOR
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I
+
+     The ship--The crew--A hurricane--Cape Verde Islands--Frio--A
+     _pampeiro_.
+
+
+To get underweigh: It was on the 28th of February 1886, that the bark
+_Aquidneck_, laden with case-oil, sailed from New York for Montevideo,
+the capital of Uruguay, the strip of land bounding the River Plate on
+the east, and called by the natives "Banda Oriental." The _Aquidneck_
+was a trim and tidy craft of 326 tons' register, hailing from Baltimore,
+the port noted for clippers, and being herself high famed above them all
+for swift sailing, she had won admiration on many seas.
+
+Her crew mustered ten, all told; twelve had been the complement, when
+freights were good. There were, beside the crew with regular stations, a
+little lad, aged about six years, and his mamma (age immaterial),
+privileged above the rest, having "all nights in"--that is, not having
+to stand watch. The mate, Victor, who is to see many adventures before
+reaching New York again, was born and bred on shipboard. He was in
+perfect health, and as strong as a windlass. When he first saw the light
+and began to give orders, he was at San Francisco on the packet
+_Constitution_, the vessel lost in the tempest at Samoa, just before the
+great naval disaster at the same place in the year of 1889. Garfield,
+the little lad above mentioned, Victor's brother, in this family ship,
+was born in Hong Kong harbour, in the old bark _Amethyst_, a bona-fide
+American citizen, though first seeing the light in a foreign port, the
+Stars and Stripes standing sponsors for his nationality. This bark had
+braved the wind and waves for fifty-eight years, but had not, up to that
+date, so far as I know, experienced so lively a breeze as the one which
+sprung up about her old timbers on that eventful 3rd of March, 1880.
+
+Our foremast hands on the _Aquidneck_, six in number, were from as many
+nations, strangers to me and strangers to each other; but the cook, a
+negro, was a native American--to the manner born. To have even so many
+Americans in one ship was considered exceptional.
+
+Much or little as matters this family history and description of the
+crew: the day of our sailing was bitter-cold and stormy, boding no good
+for the coming voyage, which was to be, indeed, the most eventful of my
+life of more than five-and-thirty years at sea. Studying the morning
+weather report, before sailing, we saw predicted a gale from the
+nor'west, and one also approaching from the sou'west at the same time.
+"The prospect," said the New York papers, "is not encouraging." We were
+anxious, however, to commence the voyage, having a crew on board, and,
+being all ready, we boldly sailed, somewhat against our better judgment.
+The nor'wester blowing, at the time, at the rate of forty miles an hour,
+increased to eighty or ninety miles by March 2nd. This hurricane
+continued through March 3rd, and gave us serious concern for the ship
+and all on board.
+
+At New York, on those days, the wind howled from the north, with the
+"storm centre somewhere on the Atlantic," so said the wise seamen of the
+weather bureau, to whom, by the way, the real old salt is indebted, at
+the present day, for information of approaching storms, sometimes days
+ahead. The prognostication was correct, as we can testify, for out on
+the Atlantic our bark could carry only a mere rag of a foresail,
+somewhat larger than a table-cloth, and with this storm-sail she went
+flying before the tempest, all those dark days, with a large "bone in
+her mouth,"[1] making great headway, even under the small sail.
+Mountains of seas swept clean over the bark in their mad race, filling
+her decks full to the top of the bulwarks, and shaking things generally.
+
+Our men were lashed, each one to his station; and all spare spars not
+doubly lashed were washed away, along with other movables that were
+broken and torn from their fastenings by the wild storm.
+
+The cook's galley came in for its share of the damage, the cook himself
+barely escaping serious injury from a sea that went thundering across
+the decks, taking with it doors, windows, galley stove, pots, kettles
+and all, together with the culinary artist; landing the whole wreck in
+the lee scuppers, but, most fortunately, with the professor on top. A
+misfortune like this is always--felt. It dampens one's feelings, so to
+speak. It means cold food for a time to come, if not even worse fare.
+
+The day following our misfortune, however, was not so bad. In fact, the
+tremendous seas boarding the bark latterly were indications of the good
+change coming, for it meant that her speed had slackened through a lull
+of the gale, allowing the seas to reach her too full and heavy.
+
+More sail was at once crowded on, and still more was set at every stage
+of the abatement of the gale, for the craft should not be lazy when big
+seas race after her. And so on we flew, like a scud, sheeting home sail
+after sail as required, till the 5th of March, when all of her white
+wings were spread, and she fairly "walked the waters like a thing of
+life." There was now wind enough for several days, but not too much,
+and our swift-sailing craft laughed at the seas trying to catch her.
+
+Cheerily on we sailed for days and days, pressed by the favouring gale,
+meeting the sun each day a long span earlier, making daily four degrees
+of longitude. It was the time, on these bright days, to forearm with dry
+clothing against future stormy weather. Boxes and bags were brought on
+deck, and drying and patching went on by wholesale in the watch below,
+while the watch on deck bestirred themselves putting the ship in order.
+"Chips," the carpenter, mended the galley; the cook's broken shins were
+plastered up; and in a few days all was well again. And the sailors,
+moving cheerfully about once more in their patched garments of varied
+hues, reminded me of the spotted cape pigeons pecking for a living, the
+pigeons, I imagined, having a better life of the two. A panican of hot
+coffee or tea by sailors called "water bewitched," a sea-biscuit, and
+"bit of salt-horse," had regaled the crew and restored their voices.
+Then "Reuben Ranzo" was heard on the breeze, and the main tack was
+boarded to the tune of "Johnny Boker." Other wondrous songs through the
+night-watch could be heard in keeping with the happy time. Then what
+they would do and what they wouldn't do in the next port was talked of,
+when song and yarn ran out.
+
+Hold fast, shipmate, hold fast and belay! or the crimps of Montevideo
+will wear the new jacket you promise yourself, while you will be off
+Cape Horn, singing "Haul out to leeward," with a wet stocking on your
+neck, and with the same old "lamby" on, that long since was "lamby" only
+in name, the woolly part having given way to a cloth worn much in "Far
+Cathay"; in short, you will dress in dungaree, the same as now, while
+the crimps and landsharks divide your scanty earnings, unless you "take
+in the slack" of your feelings, and "make all fast and steady all."
+
+Ten days out, and we were in the northeast "trades"--porpoises were
+playing under the bows as only porpoises can play; dolphins were racing
+alongside, and flying-fish were all about. This was, indeed, a happy
+change, and like being transported to another world. Our hardships were
+now all forgotten, for "the sea washes off all the woes of men."
+
+One week more of pleasant sailing, all going orderly on board, and Cape
+Verde Islands came in sight. A grand and glorious sight they were! All
+hail, _terra firma_! It is good to look at you once again! By noon the
+islands were abeam, and the fresh trade-wind in the evening bore us out
+of sight of them before dark.
+
+Most delightful sailing is this large, swinging motion of our bark
+bounding over the waves, with the gale abaft the beam, driving her
+forward till she fairly leaps from billow to billow, as if trying to
+rival her companions, the very flying-fish. Thwarted now by a sea, she
+strikes it with her handsome bows, sending into the light countless
+thousand sprays, that shine like a nimbus of glory. The tread on her
+deck-plank is lighter now, and the little world afloat is gladsome fore
+and aft.
+
+Cape Frio (cold cape) was the next landfall. Upon reaching that point,
+we had crossed the Atlantic twice. The course toward Cape Verde Islands
+had been taken to avail ourselves of a leading wind through the
+south-east trades, the course from the islands to Frio being
+southwesterly. This latter stretch was spanned on an easy bow-line; with
+nothing eventful to record. Thence our course was through variable winds
+to the River Plate, where a _pampeiro_ was experienced that blew "great
+guns," and whistled a hornpipe through the rigging.
+
+These _pampeiros_ (winds from the _pampas_) usually blow with great
+fury, but give ample warning of their approach: the first sign being a
+spell of unsurpassed fine weather, with small, fleecy clouds floating so
+gently in the sky that one scarcely perceives their movements, yet they
+do move, like an immense herd of sheep grazing undisturbed on the great
+azure field. All this we witnessed, and took into account. Then
+gradually, and without any apparent cause, the clouds began to huddle
+together in large groups; a sign had been given which the elements
+recognized. Next came a flash of fire from behind the accumulating
+masses, then a distant rumbling noise. It was a note of warning, and one
+that no vessel should let pass unheeded. "Clew up, and furl!" was the
+order. To hand all sail when these fierce visitors are out on a frolic
+over the seas, and entertain them under bare poles, is the safest plan,
+unless, indeed, the best storm sails are bent; even then it is safest to
+goose-wing the tops'ls before the gale comes on. Not till the fury of
+the blast is spent does the ship require sail, for it is not till then
+that the sea begins to rise, necessitating sail to steady her.
+
+The first onslaught of the storm, levelling all before it, and sending
+the would-be waves flying across in sheets--sailor sheets, so to
+speak--lends a wild and fearful aspect; but there is no dread of a
+lee-shore in the sailor's heart at these times, for the gale is from off
+the land, as indicated by the name it bears.
+
+After the gale was a calm; following which came desirable winds, that
+carried us at last to the port we sought--Montevideo; where we cast
+anchor on the 5th of May, and made preparations, after the customs'
+visit, for discharging the cargo, which was finally taken into lighters
+from alongside to the piers, and thence to the warehouses, where ends
+the ship's responsibility to the owner of the goods. But not till then
+ceases the ship's liability, or the captain's care of the merchandise
+placed in his trust. Clearly the captain has cares on sea and on land.
+
+FOOTNOTE:
+
+[1] The white foam at the bows produced by fast sailing is, by
+sailors, called "a bone in her mouth."
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II
+
+     Montevideo--Beggars--Antonina for mate--Antonina to Buenos
+     Aires--The _bombelia_.
+
+
+Montevideo, sister city to Buenos Aires, is the fairer of the two to
+look upon from the sea, having a loftier situation, and, like Buenos
+Aires, boasts of many fine mansions, comely women, liberal schools, and
+a cemetery of great splendour.
+
+It is at Montevideo that the "beggar a-horse-back" becomes a verity
+(horses are cheap); galloping up to you the whining beggar will implore
+you, saying: "For the love of Christ, friend, give me a coin to buy
+bread with."
+
+From "the Mont" we went to Antonina, in Brazil, for a cargo of mate, a
+sort of tea, which, prepared as a drink, is wholesome and refreshing. It
+is partaken of by the natives in a highly sociable manner, through a
+tube which is thrust into the steaming beverage in a silver urn or a
+calabash, whichever may happen to be at hand when "drouthy neebors
+neebors meet"; then all sip and sip in bliss from the same tube, which
+is passed from mouth to mouth. No matter how many mouths there may be,
+the _bombelia_, as it is called, must reach them all. It may have to be
+replenished to make the drink go around, and several times, too, when
+the company is large. This is done with but little loss of time. By
+thrusting into the urn or gourd a spoonful of the herb, and two
+spoonfuls of sugar to a pint of water, which is poured, boiling, over
+it, the drink is made. But to give it some fancied extra flavour, a live
+coal (_carbo vegetable_) is plunged into the potion to the bottom. Then
+it is again passed around, beginning where it left off. Happy is he, if
+a stranger, who gets the first sip at the tube, but the initiated have
+no prejudices. While in that country I frequently joined in the social
+rounds at mate, and finally rejoiced in a _bombelia_ of my own.
+
+The people at Antonina (in fact all the people we saw in Brazil) were
+kind, extremely hospitable, and polite; living in thrift generally,
+their wants were but few beyond their resources. The mountain scenery,
+viewed from the harbour of Antonina, is something to gloat over; I have
+seen no place in the world more truly grand and pleasing. The climate,
+too, is perfect and healthy. The only doctor of the place, when we were
+there, wore a coat out at the elbows, for lack of patronage. A desirable
+port is Antonina.
+
+We had musical entertainments on board, at this place. To see the
+display of beautiful white teeth by these Brazilian sweet singers was
+good to the soul of a sea-tossed mariner. One nymph sang for the
+writer's benefit a song at which they all laughed very much. Being in
+native dialect, I did not understand it, but of course laughed with the
+rest, at which they were convulsed; from this, I supposed it to be at my
+expense. I enjoyed that, too, as much, or more, than I would have
+relished _areytos_ in my favour.
+
+With mate we came to Buenos Aires, where the process of discharging the
+cargo was the same as at Montevideo--into lighters. But at Buenos Aires,
+we lay four times the distance from the shore, about four miles.
+
+The herb, or _herva mate_, is packed into barrels, boxes, and into
+bullock-hide sacks, which are sewed up with stout hide thongs. The
+contents, pressed in tightly when the hide is green and elastic, becomes
+as hard as a cannon-ball by the contraction which follows when it dries.
+The first load of the _soroes_, so-called, that came off to the bark at
+the port of loading, was espied on the way by little Garfield. Piled in
+the boat, high above the gunwales, the hairy side out, they did look
+odd. "Oh, papa," said he, "here comes a load of cows! Stand by, all
+hands, and take them in."
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III
+
+     Salvage of a cargo of wine--Sailors happy--Cholera in the
+     Argentine--Death in the land--Dutch Harry--Pete the Greek--Noted
+     crimps--Boat lost--Sail for Ilha Grande--Expelled from the
+     port--Serious hardships.
+
+
+From Buenos Aires, we proceeded up the River Plate, near the confluence
+of the Parana and Paraguay, to salve a cargo of wine from the stranded
+brig _Neovo San Pascual_, from Marseilles.
+
+The current of the great river at that point runs constantly seaward,
+becoming almost a sea of itself, and a dangerous one to navigate; hence
+the loss of the _San Pascual,_ and many others before her.
+
+If, like the "Ancient Mariner," we had, any of us, cried, "water, water
+all around, and not a drop to drink," we forgot it now, in this
+bountiful stream. Wine, too, we had without stint. The insurance agent,
+to leave no excuse for tampering with the cargo, rolled out a cask of
+the best, and, like a true Hans Breitmann, "knocked out der bung." Then,
+too, cases were broken in the handling, the contents of which drenched
+their clothes from top to toe, as the sailors carried them away on their
+heads.
+
+The diversity of a sailor's life--ah me! The experience of Dana and his
+shipmates, for instance, on a sun-burnt coast, carrying dry hides on
+their heads, if not a worse one, may be in store for us, we cried, now
+fairly swimming in luxuries--water and wine alike free. Although our
+present good luck may be followed by times less cheerful, we preferred
+to count this, we said, as compensation for past misfortunes, marking
+well that "it never rains but it pours."
+
+The cargo of wine in due course was landed at Rosario with but small
+loss, the crew, except in one case, remaining sober enough to help
+navigate even the difficult Parana. But one old sinner, the case I speak
+of, an old Labrador fisherman, became a useless, drunken swab, in spite
+of all we could do. I say "we" for most of the crew were on my side, in
+favour of a fair deal and "regular supplies."
+
+The hold was barred and locked, and every place we could think of, for a
+time, was searched; still Dan kept terribly drunk. At last his mattress
+was turned out, and from it rolled a dozen or more bottles of the best
+liquor. Then there was a row, but all on the part of Dan, who swore blue
+vengeance on the man, if he could but find him out, who had stowed that
+grog in his bunk, "trying to get" him "into trouble"; some of those
+"young fellows would rue it yet!"
+
+The cargo of wine being discharged, I chartered to load alfalfa, packed
+in bales, for Rio. Many deaths had occurred about this time, with
+appalling suddenness; we soon learned that cholera was staring us all in
+the face, and that it was fast spreading through the country, filling
+towns and cities with sickness and death.
+
+Approaching more frightfully near, it carried our pilot over the bar;
+his wife was a widow the day after he brought our bark to the loading
+berth. And the young man who commenced to deliver us the cargo was
+himself measured the day after. His ship had come in!
+
+Many stout men, and many, many women and children succumbed to the
+scourge; yet it was our high privilege to come through the dark cloud
+without losing a loved one, while thousands were cast down with
+bereavements and grief. At one time it appeared that we were in the
+centre of the cloud which zig-zagged its ugly body, serpent-like,
+through districts, poisoning all that it touched, and leaving death in
+its wake. This was indeed cholera in its most terrible form!
+
+One poor fellow sat at the Widow Lacinas' hotel, bewildered.
+"Forty-eight hours ago," said he, "I sat at my own hearth, with wife and
+three children by my side. Now I am alone in the world! Even my poor
+house, such as it was, is pulled down." This man, I say, had troubles;
+surely was his "house pulled down!"
+
+There was no escaping the poison or keeping it off, except by
+disinfectants, and by keeping the system regular, for it soon spread
+over all the land and the air was full of it. Remedies sold so high that
+many must have perished without the test of medicinal aid to cure their
+disease. A cry went up against unprincipled druggists who were
+over-charging for their drugs, but nothing more was done to check their
+greed. Camphor sold as high as four dollars a pound, and the druggist
+with a few hundred drops of laudanum and as much chlorodyne could travel
+through Europe afterward on the profits of his sales.
+
+It was at Rosario, and at this time, that we buried our young friend,
+Captain Speck, well loved of young and old. His friends did not ask
+whether it was cholera or not that he died of, but performed the last
+act of friendship as became men of heart and feeling. The minister could
+not come that day, but Captain Speck's little friend, Garfield, said:
+"The flags were set for the angels to come and take the Captain to
+Heaven!" Need more be said?
+
+And the flags blew out all day.
+
+Then it became us to erect a memorial slab, and, hardest of all, to
+write to the widow and orphans. This was done in a homely way, but with
+sympathetic, aching hearts away off there in Santa Fe.
+
+Our time at Rosario, after this, was spent in gloomy days that dragged
+into weeks and months, and our thoughts often wandered from there to a
+happy past. We preferred to dwell away from there and in other climes,
+if only in thought. There was, however, one happy soul among us--the
+child whose face was a sunbeam in all kinds of weather and at all times,
+happy in his ignorance of the evils that fall to the lot of man.
+
+Our sailing-day from Rosario finally came; and, with a feeling as of
+casting off fetters, the lines were let go, and the bark hauled out into
+the stream, with a full cargo on board; but, instead of sailing for Rio,
+as per charter, she was ordered by the Brazilian consul to Ilha Grande
+(Great Island), the quarantine station of Brazil, some sixty-two miles
+west of Rio, there to be disinfected and to discharge her cargo in
+quarantine.
+
+A new crew was shipped and put aboard, but while I was getting my
+papers, about noon, they stole one of the ship's boats and scurried off
+down the river as fast, no doubt, as they could go. I have not seen them
+or my boat since. They all deserted,--every mother's son of them!
+taking, beside the boat, a month's advance pay from a Mr. Dutch Harry, a
+sailor boarding-master, who had stolen my inward crew that he might, as
+he boasted afterward, "ship new hands in their places." In view of the
+fact that this vilest of crimps was the loser of the money, I could
+almost forgive the "galoots" for the theft of my boat. (The ship is
+usually responsible for advance wages twenty-four hours after she has
+sailed, providing, too, that the sailors proceed to sea in her.) Seeing,
+moreover, that they were of that stripe, unworthy the name of sailor, my
+vessel was the better without them, by at least what it cost to be rid
+of them, namely, the price of my boat.
+
+However, I will take back what I said about Dutch Harry being the
+"vilest crimp." There came one to Rosario worse than he, one "Pete the
+Greek," who cut off the ears of a rival boarding-master at the Boca,
+threw them into the river, then, making his escape to Rosario, some 180
+miles away, established himself in the business in opposition to the
+Dutchman, whom he "shanghaied" soon after, then "reigned peacefully in
+his stead."
+
+A captain who, like myself, had suffered from the depredations of this
+noted gentry, told me, in great glee, that he saw Harry on a bone-laden
+Italian bark outward bound,--"even then nearly out of the river." The
+last seen of him by my friend, the captain, was "among the branches,"
+with a rope around his neck--they hanged him, maybe--I don't know what
+else the rope was for, or who deserved more to be hanged. The captain
+screamed with delight:--"he'll get bone soup, at least, for a while,
+instead of Santa Fe good mutton-chops at our expense."
+
+My second crew was furnished by Mr. Pete, before referred to, and on the
+seventeenth of December we set sail from that country of revolutions.
+Things soon dropped into working order, and I found reason to be pleased
+with the change of crew. We glided smoothly along down the river, thence
+wishing never again to see Rosario under the distressing circumstances
+through which she had just passed.
+
+On the following day, while slipping along before a light, rippling
+breeze, a dog was espied out in the current, struggling in the
+whirlpools, which were rather strong, apparently unable to extricate
+himself, and was greatly exhausted. Coming up with him our main-tops'l
+was laid to the mast, and as we ranged by the poor thing, a sailor,
+plunging over the side in a bow-line, bent a rope on to doggy, another
+one hauled him carefully on board, and the rescue was made. He proved
+to be a fine young retriever, and his intelligent signs of thankfulness
+for his escape from drowning were scarcely less eloquent of gratitude
+than human spoken language.
+
+This pleasant incident happening on a Friday, suggested, of course, the
+name we should give him. His new master, to be sure, was Garfield, who
+at once said, "I guess they won't know me when I get home, with my new
+suit--and a dog!" The two romped the decks thenceforth, early and late.
+It was good to see them romp, while "Friday" "barkit wi' joy."
+
+Our pets were becoming numerous now, and all seemed happy till a
+stowaway cat one day killed poor little "Pete," our canary. For ten
+years or more we had listened to the notes of this wee bird, in many
+countries and climes. Sweetest of sweet singers, it was buried in the
+great Atlantic at last. A strange cat, a careless steward, and its tiny
+life was ended--and the tragedy told. This was indeed a great loss to us
+all, and was mourned over,--almost as the loss of a child.
+
+A book that has been read at sea has a near claim on our friendship, and
+is a thing one is loth to part with, or change, even for a better book.
+But the well-tried friend of many voyages is oh! so hard to part with at
+sea. A resting-place in the solemn sea of sameness--in the trackless
+ocean, marked only by imaginary lines and circles--is a cheerless spot
+to look to; yet how many have treasures there!
+
+Returning to the voyage and journal: Our pilot proved incompetent, and
+we narrowly escaped shipwreck in consequence at Martin Garcia Bar, a bad
+spot in the River Plate. A small schooner captain, observing that we
+needlessly followed in his track, and being anything but a sailor in
+principle, wantonly meditated mischief to us. While I was confidently
+trusting to my pilot, and he (the pilot) trusting to the schooner, one
+that could go over banks where we would strike, what did the scamp do
+but shave close to a dangerous spot, my pilot following faithfully in
+his wake. Then, jumping upon the taffrail of his craft, as we came
+abreast the shoal, he yelled, like a Comanche, to my pilot to: "Port the
+helm!" and what does my mutton-headed jackass do but port hard over! The
+bark, of course, brought up immediately on the ground, as the other had
+planned, seeing which his whole pirate crew--they could have been little
+less than pirates--joined in roars of laughter, but sailed on, doing us
+no other harm.
+
+By our utmost exertions the bark was gotten off, not a moment too soon,
+however, for by the time we kedged her into deep water a _pampeiro_ was
+upon us. She rode out the gale safe at anchor, thanks to an active crew.
+Our water tanks and casks were then refilled, having been emptied to
+lighten the bark from her perilous position.
+
+Next evening the storm went down, and by mutual consent our mud-pilot
+left, taking passage in a passing river-craft, with his pay and our best
+advice, which was to ship in a dredging-machine, where his capabilities
+would be appreciated.
+
+Then, "paddling our own canoe," without further accident we reached the
+light-ship, passing it on Christmas Day. Clearing thence, before night,
+English Bank and all other dangers of the land, we set our course for
+Ilha Grande, the wind being fair. Then a sigh of relief was breathed by
+all on board. If ever "old briny" was welcomed, it was on that Christmas
+Day.
+
+Nothing further of interest occurred on the voyage to Brazil, except the
+death of the little bird already spoken of, which loss deeply affected
+us all.
+
+We arrived at Ilha Grande, our destination, on the 7th day of January,
+1887, and came to anchor in nine fathoms of water, at about noon,
+within musket-range of the guard-ship, and within speaking distance of
+several vessels riding quarantine, with more or less communication going
+on among them all, through flags. Several ships, chafing under the
+restraint of quarantine, were "firing signals" at the guard-ship. One
+Scandinavian, I remember, asked if he might be permitted to communicate
+by _cable_ with his owners in Christiana. The guard gave him, as the
+Irishman said, "an evasive answer," so the cablegram, I suppose, laid
+over. Another wanted police assistance; a third wished to know if he
+could get fresh provisions--ten milreis' ($5) worth (he was a
+German)--naming a dozen or more articles that he wished for, "and _the
+balance in onions_!" Altogether, the young fellows on the guard-ship
+were having, one might say, a signal practice.
+
+On the next day, January 8th, the officers of the port came alongside in
+a steam-launch, and ordered us to leave, saying the port had been closed
+that morning. "But we have made the voyage," I said. "No matter," said
+the guard, "leave at once you must, or the guard-ship will fire into
+you." This, I submit, was harsh and arbitrary treatment. A thunderbolt
+from a clear sky could not have surprised us more or worked us much
+greater harm--to be ruined in business or struck by lightning, being
+equally bad!
+
+Then pointing something like a gun, Dom Pedro said, said he, "_Vaya
+Homem_" (hence, begone), "Or you'll give us cholera." So back we had to
+go, all the way to Rosario, with that load of hay--and trouble. But on
+our arrival there we found things better than they were when we sailed.
+The cholera had ceased--it was on the wane when we sailed from Rosario,
+and there was hardly a case of the dread disease in the whole country
+east of Cordova when we returned. That was, indeed, a comfort, but it
+left our hardship the same, and led, consequently, to the total loss of
+the vessel after dragging us through harrowing trials and losses, as
+will be seen by subsequent events.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV
+
+     Ilha Grande decree--Return to Rosario--Waiting opening of the
+     Brazilian ports--Scarcity of sailors--Buccaneers turned
+     pilots--Sail down the river--Arrive at Ilha Grande the second
+     time--Quarantined and fumigated--Admitted to _pratique_--Sail for
+     Rio--Again challenged--Rio at last.
+
+
+This Ilha Grande decree, really a political movement, brought great
+hardships on us, notwithstanding that it was merely intended by the
+Brazilians as retaliation for past offences by their Argentine
+neighbours; not only for quarantines against Rio fevers, but for a
+discriminating duty as well on sugar from the empire; a combination of
+hardships on commerce--more than the sensitive Brazilians could
+stand--so chafing them that a retaliation fever sprung up reaching more
+than the heat of _febre marello_, and they decided to teach their
+republican cousins a wholesome lesson. However, their wish was to
+retaliate without causing war, and it was done. In fact, closing ports
+as they did at the beginning of Argentine's most valuable season of
+exports to Brazil, and with the plausible excuse, namely fear of pain in
+the stomach, so filled the Argentines with admiration of their equals in
+strategy that they on the earliest opportunity proclaimed two public
+holidays in honour of bright Brazil. So the matter of difference ended,
+to the delight of all--in fire-crackers and champagne!
+
+To the delight of all except the owner and crew of the _Aquidneck_. For
+our bark there was no way but to return where the cargo came from, at a
+ruinous loss, too, of time and money. We called at the first open port
+and wired to the owner of the cargo, but got no answer. Thence we sailed
+to Buenos Aires, where I telegraphed again for instructions. The
+officers of the guard-ship, upon receiving my report from Brazil, were
+convulsed with laughter, while I----I confess it--could not see the
+joke. After waiting two days, this diplomatic reply came from the owner
+of the cargo: "Act as the case may require." Upon this matter I had
+several opinions. One person suggested that the case required me to
+pitch the whole cargo into the sea! This friend, I may mention, was from
+Boston.
+
+I have ever since regretted, however, that I did not take his advice.
+There seemed to be no protection for the vessel; the law that a ship
+must be allowed to live was unheeded; in fact this law was reversed and
+there were sharpers and beach-combers at every turn ready to take
+advantage of one's misfortunes or even drive one to despair. I
+concluded, finally, to shake the lot of them, and proceeding up the
+Parana, moored again at the berth where, a few weeks before, we had
+taken in the cargo. Spans and tackle were rigged, and all was made ready
+to discharge. It was now, "Come on, McCarthy, or McCarthy, come on!" I
+didn't care which, I had one _right_ on my side, and I kept that always
+in view; namely, the right to discharge the cargo where I had first
+received it; but where the money to buy ballast and pay other charges
+was to come from I could not discover.
+
+My merchant met me in great concern at my "misfortunes," but "carramba!"
+(zounds) said he, "my own losses are great." It required very little
+reasoning to show me that the least expensive course was the safest one
+for me to adopt, and my merchant offering enough to pay the marketing, I
+found it wisest not to disturb the cargo, but to lay up instead with it
+in the vessel and await the reopening of the Brazilian ports. This I
+did.
+
+My merchant, Don Manuel, is said to be worth millions of _pesos_. The
+foundation of his wealth was laid by peddling charcoal, carrying it at
+first, to his credit be it said, on his back, and he was then a good
+fellow. Many a hard bargain has he waged since, and is now a "Don,"
+living in a $90,000 house. The Don doesn't peddle charcoal any more.
+
+Moored at Rosario, waiting, waiting; but all of us well in body, and
+myself finally less agitated in mind. My old friend, Don Manuel, seems
+better also; he "may yet purge and live clean like a gentleman."
+
+I found upon our return to Rosario that some of the old hands were
+missing; laid low by the scourge, to make room for others, and some were
+spared who would have been less lamented. Among all the ship-brokers
+that I knew at Rosario, and I knew a great many, not one was taken away.
+They all escaped, being, it was thought, epidemic-proof. There was my
+broker, Don Christo Christiano--called by Don Manuel "El Sweaga" (the
+Swede)--whom nothing could strike with penetrative force, except a
+commission.
+
+At last, April 9th, 1887, news came that the Brazilian ports were open.
+Cholera had long since disappeared in Santa Fe and Buenos Aires. The
+Brazilians had established their own beef-drying factories, and could
+now afford to open their ports to competition. This made a great stir
+among the ships. Crews were picked up here and there, out of the few
+brothels that had not been pulled down during the cholera, and out of
+the streets or from the fields. Some, too, came in from the bush. Mixed
+among them were many that had been let out of the prisons all over the
+country, so that the scourge should not be increased by over-crowded
+jails. Of six who shipped with me, four had been so released from
+prison, where they had been serving for murder or highway robbery; all
+this I learned when it was too late. I shall have occasion before long
+to speak of these again!
+
+Well, we unmoored and dropped down the river a few miles the first day;
+with this crew, the hardest looking set that ever put foot on a ship of
+mine, and with a swarthy Greek pilot that would be taken for a pirate in
+any part of the world. The second mate, who shipped also at Rosario, was
+not less ill-visaged, and had, in addition to his natural ugly features,
+a deep scar across his face, suggestive of a heavy sabre stroke; a mark
+which, I thought upon further acquaintance, he had probably merited. I
+could not make myself easy upon the first acquaintance of my new and
+decidedly ill-featured crew. So, early the first evening I brought the
+bark to anchor, and made all snug before dark for prudent reasons. Next
+morning, the Greek, instead of getting the bark underweigh, as I
+expected him to do, came to me demanding more pay for his services and
+thinking, maybe, that I could not do without him, demanded, unless I
+chose to pay considerably in excess of his regular dues, to be put on
+shore. I took the fellow at his first bounce. He and his grip-sack were
+landed on the bank there and then, with but little "palaver" over it. It
+was then said, so I learned after, that "old S----" would drop into the
+wake of some ship, and save his pilotage; in fact, they didn't know
+"what else he could do," as the pilots were then all engaged for other
+vessels.
+
+The money was taken care of all right, and so was the _Aquidneck_! By
+daylight of the following morning she was underweigh, and under full
+sail at the head of a fleet of piloted vessels, and, being the swiftest
+sailer, easily kept the lead, and was one of the vessels that did _not
+"rompe el banco_," as was predicted by all the pilots, while they
+hunched their shoulders above their ears, exclaiming, "No _practico_, no
+_possebla_!" This was my second trip down the Parana, it is true, and I
+had been on other rivers as wonderful as this one, and had, moreover,
+read Mark Twain's "Life on the Mississippi," which gives no end of
+information on river currents, wind-reefs, sand-reefs, alligator-water,
+and all that is useful to know about rivers, so that I was confident of
+my ability; all that had been required was the stirring-up that I got
+from the impertinent pilot, or buccaneer, whichever is proper to call
+him--one thing certain, he was no true sailor!
+
+A strong, fair wind on the river, together with the current, in our
+favour, carried us flying down the channel, while we kept the lead, with
+the Stars and Stripes waving where they ought always to be seen; namely,
+on the ship in the van! So the duffers followed us, instead of our
+following them, and on we came, all clear, with the good wishes of the
+officers and the crews. But the pilots, drawing their shoulders up and
+repeating the refrain, "No _practico_, no _possebla_!" cursed us
+bitterly, and were in a vile mood, I was told, cursing more than usual,
+and that is saying a great deal, for all will agree who have heard them
+that the average "Dago" pilot is the most foul-mouthed thing afloat.
+
+Down the river and past the light-ship we came once more, this time with
+no halt to make, no backing sails to let a pilot off, nothing at all to
+stop us; we spread all sail to a favourable breeze, and reached Ilha
+Grande eight days afterward, beating the whole fleet by two days.
+Garfield kept strict account of this. He was on deck when we made the
+land, a dark and foggy night it was! nothing could be seen but the
+dimmest outline of a headland through the haze. I knew the place, I
+thought, and Garfield said he could smell land, fog or coal-tar. This,
+it will be admitted, was reassuring. A school of merry porpoises that
+gambolled under the bows while we stood confidently in for the land,
+diving and crossing the bark's course in every direction, also guarded
+her from danger. I knew that so long as deep-sea porpoises kept with us
+we had nothing to fear of the ground. When the lookout cried, "Porpoises
+gone," we turned the bark's head off-shore, backed the main-tops'l, and
+sent out the "pigeon" (lead). A few grains of sand and one soft,
+delicate white shell were brought up out of fourteen fathoms of water.
+We had but to heed these warnings and guides, and our course would be
+tolerably clear, dense and all as the fog and darkness was.
+
+The lead was kept constantly going as we sailed along in the intense
+darkness, till the headland of our port was visible through the haze of
+grey morning. What Garfield had smelled, I may mention, turned out to be
+coal-tar, a pot of which had been capsized on deck by the leadsman, in
+the night.
+
+By daylight in the morning, April 29, we had found the inner entrance to
+Ilha Grande, and sailed into the harbour for the second time with this
+cargo of hay. It was still very foggy, and all day heavy gusts of wind
+came down through the gulches in the mountains, laden with fog and rain.
+
+Two days later, the weather cleared up, and our friends began to come
+in. They found us there all right, anchored close under the highest
+mountain.
+
+Eight days of sullen gloom and rain at this place; then brimstone,
+smoke, and fire turned on to us, and we were counted healthy enough to
+be admitted to _pratique_ in Rio, where we arrived May 11th, putting one
+more day between ourselves and our friendly competitors, who finally
+arrived safe, all except one, the British bark _Dublin_. She was
+destroyed by fire between the two ports. The crew was rescued by
+Captain Lunt, and brought safe into Rio next day.
+
+At the fort entrance to the harbour of Rio we were again challenged and
+brought to, all standing, on the bar; the tide running like a mill race
+at the time brought the bark aback on her cables with a force, nearly
+cutting her down.
+
+The _Aquidneck_ it would seem had outsailed the telegram which should
+have preceded her; it was, nevertheless, my imperative duty to obey the
+orders of the port authorities which, however, should have been tempered
+with reason. It was easy for them in the fort to say, "Come to, or we'll
+sink you," but we in the bark, between two evils, came near being sunk
+by obeying the order.
+
+Formerly, when a vessel was challenged at this fort, one, two or three
+shots, if necessary to bring her to, were fired, at a cost to the ship,
+if she were not American, of fifteen shillings for the first shot,
+thirty for the second, and sixty for the third; but, for American ships,
+the sixty shilling shot was fired first--Americans would always have the
+best!
+
+After all the difficulties were cleared away, the tardy telegram
+received, and being again identified by the officers, we weighed anchor
+for the last time on this voyage, and went into our destined port, the
+spacious and charming harbour of Rio.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V
+
+     At Rio--Sail for Antonina with mixed cargo--A _pampeiro_--Ship on
+     beam-ends--Cargo still more mixed--Topgallant-masts carried
+     away--Arrive safely at Antonina.
+
+
+The cargo was at last delivered, and no one made ill over it. A change
+of rats also was made; at Rio those we brought in gave place to others
+from the Dom Pedro Docks where we moored. Fleas, too, skipped about in
+the hay as happy as larks, and nearly as big; and all the other live
+stock that we brought from Rosario, goodness knows of what kind and
+kith, arrived well and sound from over the water, notwithstanding the
+fumigations and fuss made at the quarantine.
+
+Had the little microbes been with us indeed, the Brazilians would not
+have turned us away as they did, from the doors of an hospital! for they
+are neither a cruel nor cowardly people. To turn sickness away would be
+cruel and stupid, to say the least! What we were expelled for I have
+already explained.
+
+After being so long in gloomy circumstances we felt like making the most
+of pleasant Rio! Therefore on the first fine day after being docked, we
+sallied out in quest of city adventure, and brought up first in
+Ouvidor--the Broadway of Rio, where my wife bought a tall hat, which I
+saw nights looming up like a dreadful stack of hay, the innocent cause
+of much trouble to me, and I declared, by all the great islands--in my
+dreams--that go back with it I would not, but would pitch it, first,
+into the sea.
+
+I get nervous on the question of quarantines. I visit the famous
+Botanical Gardens with my family, and I tremble with fear lest we are
+fumigated at some station on the way. However, our time at Rio is
+pleasantly spent in the main, and on the first day of June, we set sail
+once more for Paranagua and Antonina of pleasant recollections; partly
+laden with flour, kerosene, pitch, tar, rosin and wine, three pianos, I
+remember, and one steam engine and boiler, all as ballast; "freight
+free," so the bill of lading read, and further, that the ship should
+"not be responsible for leakage, breakage, or rust." This clause was
+well for the ship, as one of those wild _pampeiros_ overtook her, on the
+voyage, throwing her violently on her beam-ends, and shaking the motley
+cargo into a confused and mixed-up mess. The vessel remaining tight,
+however, no very serious damage was done, and she righted herself after
+a while, but without her lofty topgallant-masts, which went with a crash
+at the first blast of the tempest.
+
+This incident made a profound impression on Garfield. He happened to be
+on deck when the masts were carried away, but managed to scamper off
+without getting hurt. Whenever a vessel hove in sight after that having
+a broken spar or a torn sail, it was "a _pampeiroed_ ship."
+
+The storm, though short, was excessively severe, and swept over
+Paranagua and Antonina with unusual violence. The owner of the pianos, I
+was told, prayed for us, and regretted that his goods were not insured.
+But when they were landed, not much the worse for their tossing about,
+old Strichine, the owner (that was his name or near that, strychnine the
+boys called him, because his singing was worse than "rough on rats,"
+they said, a bit of juvenile wit that the artist very sensibly let pass
+unheeded), declared that the ship was a good one, and that her captain
+was a good pilot; and as neither freight nor insurance had been paid, he
+and his wife would feast us on music; having learned that I especially
+was fond of it. They had screeched operas for a lifetime in Italy, but I
+didn't care for that. As arranged, therefore, I was on deck at the
+appointed time and place, to stay at all hazards.
+
+The pianos, as I had fully expected, were fearfully out of
+tune--suffering, I should say, from the effects of seasickness!
+
+So much so that I shall always believe this opportunity was seized upon
+by the artist to avenge the damage to his instruments, which, indeed, I
+could not avert, in the storm that we passed through. The good Strichine
+and his charming wife were astonished at the number of opera airs I
+could name. And they tried to persuade me to sing Il Trovatore; but
+concluding that damage enough had already been done, I refrained, that
+is, I refracted my song.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI
+
+     Mutiny--Attempt at robbery and murder--Four against one--Two go
+     down before a rifle--Order restored.
+
+
+July 23rd, 1887, brings me to a sudden and shocking point in the history
+of the voyage that I fain would forget, but that will not be possible.
+Between the hours of 11 and 12 p.m. of this day I was called instantly
+to defend my life and all that is dear to a man.
+
+The bark, anchored alone in the harbour of Antonina, was hid from the
+town in the darkness of a night that might well have covered the
+blackest of tragedies. My pirates thought their opportunity had surely
+come to capture the _Aquidneck_, and this they undertook to do. The
+ringleader of the gang was a burly scoundrel, whose boast was that he
+had "licked" both the mate and second mate of the last vessel he had
+sailed in, and had "busted the captain in the jaw" when they landed in
+Rio, where the vessel was bound, and where, of course, the captain had
+discharged him. It was there the villain shipped with me, in lieu of one
+of the Rosario gang who had been kindly taken in charge by the guard at
+Ilha Grande and brought to Rio to be tried before the American Consul
+for insubordination. Said he, one day when I urged him to make haste and
+help save the topsails in a squall, "Oh, I'm no soft-horn to be
+hurried!" It was the time the bark lost her topgallant-mast and was cast
+on her beam-ends on the voyage to Antonina, already told; it was, in
+fact, no time for loafing, and this braggart at a decisive word hurried
+aloft with the rest to do his duty. What I said to him was meant for
+earnest, and it cowed him. It is only natural to think that he held a
+grudge against me forever after, and waited only for his opportunity;
+knowing, too, that I was the owner of the bark, and supposed to have
+money. He was heard to say in a rum-mill a day or two before the attack
+that he would find the ---- money and his life, too. His chum and bosom
+friend had come pretty straight from Palermo penitentiary at Buenos
+Aires when he shipped with me at Rosario.
+
+It was no secret on board the bark that he had served two years for
+robbing, and cutting a ranchman's throat from ear to ear. These records,
+which each seemed to glory in, were verified in both cases.
+
+I met the captain afterwards who had been "busted in the jaw"--Captain
+Roberts, of Baltimore, a quiet gentleman, with no evil in his heart for
+any one, and a man, like myself, well along in years.
+
+Two of the gang, old Rosario hands, had served for the lesser offence of
+robbery alone--they brought up in the rear! The other two of my foremast
+hands--one a very respectable Hollander, the other a little Japanese
+sailor, a bright, young chap--had been robbed and beaten by the four
+ruffians, and then threatened so that they deserted to the forest
+instead of bringing a complaint of the matter to me, for fear, as the
+Jap expressed it afterwards, when there was no longer any danger,--for
+fear the "la-la-long mans (thieves) would makee killo mi!"
+
+The ringleader bully had made unusual efforts to create a row when I
+came on board early in the evening; however, as he had evidently been
+drinking, I passed it off as best I could for the natural consequence of
+rum, and ordered him forward; instead of doing as he was bid, when I
+turned to hand my wife to the cabin he followed me threateningly to the
+break of the poop. What struck me most, however, was the conduct of his
+chum, who was sober, but in a very unusual, high, gleeful mood. It was
+knock-off time when I came along to where he was seizing off the mizzen
+topgallant backstay, the last of the work of refitting the late
+_pampeiro_ damage; and the mate being elsewhere engaged, I gave the
+usual order to quit work. "Knock off," I said to the man, "and put away
+your tools. The bark's rigging looks well," I added, "and if to-morrow
+turns out fine, all will be finished"; whereupon the fellow laughed
+impertinently in my face, repeating my words, "All will be finished!"
+under his breath, adding, "before to-morrow!" This was the first insult
+offered by the "Bloodthirsty Tommy," who had committed murder only a
+short time before; but I had been watched by the fellow, with a cat-like
+eye at every turn.
+
+The full significance of his words on this occasion came up to me only
+next morning, when I saw him lying on the deck with a murderous weapon
+in his hand! I was not expecting a cowardly, night attack, nevertheless
+I kept my gun loaded. I went to sleep this night as usual, forgetting
+the unpleasant episode as soon as my head touched the pillow; but my
+wife, with finer instincts, kept awake. It was well for us all that she
+did so. Near midnight, my wife, who had heard the first footstep on the
+poop-deck, quietly wakened me, saying, "We must get up, and look out for
+ourselves! Something is going wrong on deck; the boat tackle has been
+let go with a great deal of noise, and--O! don't go that way on deck. I
+heard some one on the cabin steps, and heard whispering in the forward
+entry."
+
+"You must have been dreaming," I said.
+
+"No, indeed!" said she; "I have not been asleep yet; don't go on deck by
+the forward companionway; they are waiting there, I am sure, for I heard
+the creaking of the loose step in the entry."
+
+If my wife has not been dreaming, thought I, there can be no possible
+doubt of a plot.
+
+Nothing justifies a visit on the poop-deck after working-hours, except a
+call to relieve sickness, or for some other emergency, and then secrecy
+or stealth is non-permissible.
+
+It may be here explained to persons not familiar with ships, that the
+sailors' quarters are in the forward part of the ship where they (the
+sailors) are supposed to be found after working-hours, in port, coming
+never abaft the mainmast; hence the term "before the mast."
+
+My first impulse was to step on deck in the usual way, but the earnest
+entreaties of my wife awoke me to a danger that should be investigated
+with caution. Arming myself, therefore, with a stout carbine repeater,
+with eight ball cartridges in the magazine, I stepped on deck abaft
+instead of forward, where evidently I had been expected. I stood rubbing
+my eyes for a moment, inuring them to the intense darkness, when a
+coarse voice roared down the forward companionway to me to come on deck.
+"Why don't ye come on deck like a man, and order yer men forid?" was the
+salute that I got, and was the first that I heard with my own ears, and
+it was enough. To tell the whole story in a word, I knew that I had to
+face a mutiny.
+
+I could do no less than say: "Go forward there!"
+
+"Yer there, are ye?" said the spokesman, as with an oath, he bounded
+toward me, cursing as he came.
+
+Again I ordered him forward, saying, "I am armed,--if you come here I
+will shoot!" But I forbore to do so instantly, thinking to club him to
+the deck instead, for my carbine was a heavy one. I dealt him a blow as
+he came near, sufficient I thought, to fell an ox; but it had,
+apparently, no effect, and instantly he was inside of my guard. Then
+grasping me by the throat, he tried to force me over the taffrail, and
+cried, exultingly, as he felt me give way under his brute strength,
+"Now, you damn fool, shoot!" at the same time drawing his knife to
+strike.
+
+I could not speak, or even breathe, but my carbine spoke for me, and the
+ruffian fell with the knife in his hand which had been raised against
+me! Resolution had proved more than a match for brute force, for I then
+knew that not only my own life but also the lives of others depended on
+me at this moment. Nothing daunted, the rest came on, like hungry
+wolves. Again I cried, "Go forward!" But thinking, maybe, that my rifle
+was a single shooter, or that I could not load it so quickly, the order
+was disregarded.
+
+"What if I don't go forward?" was "Bloody Tommy's" threatening question,
+adding, as he sprang toward me, "I've got this for you!" but fell
+instantly as he raised his hand; and there on the deck was ended his
+misadventure! and like the other he fell with the deadly knife in his
+hand. I was now all right. The dread of cold steel had left me when I
+freed myself from the first would-be assassin, and I only wondered how
+many more would persist in trying to take my life. But recollecting
+there were only two mutineers left, and that I had still six shots in
+the magazine of my rifle, and one already in the chamber, I stood ready
+with the hammer raised, and my finger on the trigger, confident that I
+would not be put down.
+
+There was no further need of extreme measures, however, for order was
+now restored, though two of the assailants had skulked away in the dark.
+
+How it was that I regained my advantage, after once losing it, I hardly
+know; but this I am certain of, that being down I was not to be spared.
+Then desperation took the place of fear, and I felt more than a match
+for all that could come against me. I had no other than serene
+feelings, however, and had no wish to pursue the two pirates that fled.
+
+Immediately after the second shot was fired, and I found myself once
+more master of my bark, the remaining two came aft again, at my bidding
+this time, and in an orderly manner, it may be believed.
+
+It is idle to say what I would or would not have given to have the
+calamity averted, or, in other words, to have had a crew of sailors,
+instead of a gang of cut-throats.
+
+However, when the climax came, I had but one course to pursue; this I
+resolutely followed. A man will defend himself and his family to the
+last, for life is sweet, after all.
+
+It was significant, the court thought afterwards, that while my son had
+not had time to dress, they all had on their boots except the one who
+fell last, and he was in his socks, with no boots on. It was he who had
+waited for me as I have already said, on the cabin steps that I usually
+passed up and down on, but this time avoided. Circumstantial evidence
+came up in abundance to make the case perfectly clear to the
+authorities. There are few who will care to hear more about a subject so
+abhorrent to all, and I care less to write about it. I would not have
+said this much, but for the enterprise of a rising department clerk,
+who, seeing the importance of telling to the world what he knew, and
+seeing also some small emolument in the matter, was I believe prompted
+to augment the consular dispatches, thus obliging me to fight the battle
+over. However, not to be severe on the poor clerk, I will only add that,
+no indignities were offered me by the authorities through all the strict
+investigation that followed the tragedy.
+
+The trial being for justice and not for my money the case was soon
+finished.
+
+I sincerely hope that I may never again encounter such as those who came
+from the jails to bring harm and sorrow in their wake.
+
+The work of loading was finished soon after the calamity to my bark, and
+a Spanish sailing-master was engaged to take her to Montevideo; my son
+Victor going as flag captain.
+
+I piloted the _Aquidneck_ out of the harbour, and left her clear of the
+buoy, looking as neat and trim as sailor could wish to see. All the
+damage done by the late _pampeiro_ had been repaired, new
+topgallant-masts rigged, and all made ataunto. I saw my handsome bark
+well clear of the dangers of the harbour limits, then in sorrow I left
+her and paddled back to the town, for I was on parole to appear, as I
+have said, for trial! That was the word; I can find no other name for
+it--let it stand!
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII
+
+     Join the bark at Montevideo--A good crew--Small-pox breaks
+     out--Bear up for Maldonado and Flores--No aid--Death of sailors--To
+     Montevideo in distress--Quarantine.
+
+
+As soon as the case was over I posted on for Montevideo by steamer,
+where the bark had arrived only a few days ahead of me. I found her
+already stripped to a gantline though, preparatory to a long stay in
+port. I had given Victor strict orders to interfere in no way with the
+Spaniard, but to let him have full charge in nearly everything. I could
+have trusted the lad with full command, young as he was; but there was a
+strange crew of foreigners which might, as often happens, require
+maturer judgment to manage than to sail the vessel. As it proved,
+however, even the _cook_ was in many ways a better man than the
+sailing-master.
+
+Victor met me with a long face, and the sailors wore a quizzical look as
+I came over the vessel's side. One of them, in particular, whom I shall
+always remember, gave me a good-humoured greeting, along with his shake
+of the head, that told volumes; and next day was aloft, crossing yards,
+cheerfully enough. I found my Brazilian crew to be excellent sailors,
+and things on board the _Aquidneck_ immediately began to assume a
+brighter appearance, aloft and alow.
+
+Cargo was soon discharged, other cargo taken in, and the bark made ready
+for sea. My crew, I say, was a good one; but, poor fellows, they were
+doomed to trials--the worst within human experience, many of them giving
+up to grim death before the voyage was ended. Too often one bit of bad
+luck follows another. This rule brought us in contact with one of these
+small officials at Montevideo, better adapted to home life; one of those
+knowing, perhaps, more than need a cowboy, but not enough for consul.
+This official, managing to get word to my crew that a change of master
+dissolved their contract, induced them to come on shore and claim pay
+for the whole voyage and passage home on a steamer besides, the same as
+though the bark had been sold.
+
+What overwhelming troubles may come of having incompetent officials in
+places of trust, the sequel will show. This unwise, even stupid
+interference, was the indirect cause of the sufferings and deaths among
+the crew which followed.
+
+I was able to show the consul and his clerk that sailors are always
+engaged for the ship, and never for the master, and that a change of
+master did not in any way affect their contract. However, I paid the
+crew off, and then left it to their option to re-ship or not, for they
+were all right, they had been led to do what they did, and I knew that
+they wanted to get home, and it was there that the bark was going,
+direct.
+
+All signed the articles again, except one, a long-haired Andalusian,
+whom I would not have longer at any price. The wages remained the same
+as before, and all hands returned to their duty cheerful and
+contented--but pending the consul's decision (which, by the way, I
+decided for him), they had slept in a contagioned house, where, alas,
+they contracted small-pox of the worst type.
+
+We were now homeward bound. All the "runaway rum" that could be held out
+by the most subtle crimps of Montevideo could not induce these sober
+Brazilian sailors to desert their ship.
+
+These "crimps" are land-sharks who get the sailors drunk when they can,
+and then rob them of their advance money. The sailors are all paid in
+advance; sometimes they receive in this way most of their wages for the
+voyage, which they make after the money is spent, or wasted, or stolen.
+
+We all know what working for dead horse means--sailors know too well its
+significance.
+
+As sailing day drew near, a half-day liberty to each watch was asked for
+by the men, who wanted to make purchases for their friends and relatives
+at Paranagua. Permission to go on shore was readily granted, and I was
+rewarded by seeing every one return to his ship at the time promised,
+and every one sober. On the morrow, which was sailing day, every man was
+at his post and all sang "Cheerily, ho!" and were happy; all except one,
+who complained of slight chills and a fever, but said that he had been
+subject to this, and that with a dose of quinine he would soon be all
+right again.
+
+It appeared a small matter. Two days later though, his chills turned to
+something which I knew less about. The next day, three more men went
+down with rigor in the spine, and at the base of the brain. I knew by
+this that small-pox was among us!
+
+We bore up at once for Maldonado, which was the nearest port, the place
+spoken of in "Gulliver's Travels," though Gulliver, I think, is mistaken
+as to its identity and location, arriving there before a gathering storm
+that blew wet and cold from the east. Our signals of distress, asking
+for immediate medical aid were set and flew thirty-six hours before any
+one came to us; then a scared Yahoo (the country was still inhabited by
+Yahoos) in a boat rowed by two other animals, came aboard, and said,
+"Yes, your men have got small-pox." "_Vechega_" he called it, but I
+understand the lingo of the Yahoo very well, I could even speak a few
+words of it and comprehend the meanings. "_Vechega_!" he bellowed to
+his mates alongside, and, turning to me, he said, in Yahoo: "You must
+leave the port at once," then jumping into his boat he hurried away,
+along with his scared companions.[2]
+
+To leave a port in our condition was hard lines, but my perishing crew
+could get no succour at Maldonado, so we could do nothing but leave, if
+at all able to do so. We were indeed short-handed, but desperation
+lending a hand, the anchor was weighed and sufficient sail set on the
+bark to clear the inhospitable port. The wind blowing fair out of the
+harbour carried us away from the port toward Flores Island, for which we
+now headed in sore distress. A gale, long to be remembered, sprang
+suddenly up, stripping off our sails like autumn leaves, before the bark
+was three leagues from the place. We hadn't strength to clew up, so her
+sails were blown away, and she went flying before the mad tempest under
+bare poles. A snow-white sea-bird came for shelter from the storm, and
+poised on the deck to rest. The incident filled my sailors with awe; to
+them it was a portentous omen, and in distress they dragged themselves
+together and, prostrate before the bird, prayed the Holy Virgin to ask
+God to keep them from harm. The rain beat on us in torrents, as the bark
+tossed and reeled ahead, and day turned black as night. The gale was
+from E.S.E., and our course lay W.N.W. nearly, or nearly before it. I
+stood at the wheel with my shore clothes on, I remember, for I hadn't
+yet had time to change them for waterproofs; this of itself was small
+matter, but it reminds me now that I was busy with other concerns. I was
+always a good helmsman, and I took in hand now the steering of the bark
+in the storm--and I gave directions to Victor and the carpenter how to
+mix disinfectants for themselves, and medicines for the sick men. The
+medicine chest was fairly supplied.
+
+Flores, when seen, was but a few ship's lengths away. Flashes of
+lightning revealed the low cliffs, amazingly near to us, and as the bark
+swept by with great speed, the roar of the breakers on the shore, heard
+above the din of the storm, told us of a danger to beware. The helm was
+then put down, and she came to under the lee of the island like a true,
+obedient thing.
+
+Both anchors were let go, and all the chain paid out to both, to the
+bitter end, for the gale was now a hurricane. She walked away with her
+anchors for all that we could do, till, hooking a marine cable, one was
+carried away, and the other brought her head to the wind, and held her
+there trembling in the storm.
+
+Anxious fear lest the second cable should break was on our minds through
+the night; but a greater danger was within the ship, that filled us all
+with alarm.
+
+Two barks not far from us that night, with pilots on board, were lost,
+in trying to come through where the _Aquidneck_, without a pilot and
+with but three hands on deck to work her, came in. Their crews, with
+great difficulty, were rescued and then carried to Montevideo. When all
+had been done that we three could do, a light was put in the rigging,
+that flickered in the gale and went out. Then wet, and lame, and weary,
+we fell down in our drenched clothes, to rest as we might--to sleep, or
+to listen to groans of our dying shipmates.
+
+When daylight came (after this, the most dismal of all my nights at
+sea), our signals went up telling of the sad condition of the crew, and
+begging for medical assistance. Toward night the gale went down; but, as
+no boat came off, a gloom darker than midnight settled over the crew of
+the pest-ridden bark, and in dismay they again prayed to be spared to
+meet the loved ones awaiting them at home.
+
+Our repeated signals, next day, brought the reply, "Stand in."
+_Carramba!_ Why, we could hardly stand at all; much less could we get
+the bark underway, and beat in against wind and current. No one knew
+this better than they on the island, for my signals had told the whole
+story, and as we were only a mile and a half from the shore, the flags
+were distinctly made out. There was no doubt in our minds about that!
+
+Late in the day, however, a barge came out to us, ill-manned and
+ill-managed by as scared a set of "galoots" as ever capsized a boat, or
+trembled at a shadow! The coxswain had more to say than the doctor, and
+the Yahoo--I forgot to mention that we were still in Yahoodom, but one
+would see that without this explanation--the Yahoo in the bow said more
+than both; and they all took a stiff pull from a bottle of
+_cachazza_,[3] the doctor having had the start, I should say, of at
+least one or two pulls before leaving the shore, insomuch as he appeared
+braver than the rest of the crew.
+
+The doctor, having taken an extra horn or two, with Dutch courage came
+on board, and brought with him a pound of sulphur, a pint of carbolic
+acid, and some barley--enough to feed a robin a few times, for all of
+which we were thankful indeed, our disinfectants being by this time
+nearly exhausted; then, glancing at the prostrate men, he hurried away,
+as the other had done at Maldonado. I asked what I should do with the
+dead through the night--bury them where we lay? "Oh, no, no!" cried the
+Yahoo in the bow; but the doctor pointed significantly to the water
+alongside! I knew what he meant!
+
+That night we buried Jose, the sailor whose honest smile had welcomed me
+to my bark at Montevideo. I had ordered stones brought on deck, before
+dark, ostensibly to ballast the boat. I knew they would soon be wanted!
+About midnight, the cook called me in sore distress, saying that Jose
+was dying without confession!
+
+So poor Jose was buried that night in the great River Plate! I listened
+to the solemn splash that told of one life ended, and its work done; but
+gloomy, and sad, and melancholy as the case was, I had to smile when the
+cook, not having well-secured the ballast, threw it over after his
+friend, exclaiming, "Good-bye, Jose, good-bye!" I added, "Good-bye, good
+shipmate, good-bye! I doubt not that you rest well!"
+
+Next day, the signal from the shore was the same as the day before,
+"Stand in," in answer to my repeated call for help. By this time my men
+were demoralized and panic-stricken, and the poor fellows begged me, if
+the doctor would not try to cure them, to get a priest to confess them
+all. I saw a padre pacing the beach, and set flags asking him to come on
+board. No notice was taken of the signal, and we were now left entirely
+to ourselves.
+
+After burying one more of the crew, we decided to remain no longer at
+this terrible place. An English telegraph tender passing, outward-bound,
+caught up our signals at that point, and kindly reported to her consul
+at Maldonado, who wired it to Montevideo.
+
+The wind blowing away from the shore, as may it always blow when friend
+of mine nears that coast, we determined to weigh anchor or slip cable
+without further loss of time, feeling assured that by the telegraph
+reports some one would be on the look-out for us, and that the
+_Aquidneck_ would be towed into port if the worst should happen--if the
+rest of her crew went down. Three of us weighed one anchor, with its
+ninety fathoms of chain, the other had parted on the windlass in the
+gale. The bark's prow was now turned toward Montevideo, the place we had
+so recently sailed from, full of hope and pleasant anticipation; and
+here we were, dejected and filled with misery, some of our number
+already gone on that voyage which somehow seems so far away.
+
+At Montevideo, things were better. They _did_ take my remaining sick men
+out of the vessel, after two days' delay; my agent procuring a tug,
+which towed them in the ship's boat three hundred fathoms astern. In
+this way they were taken to Flores Island, where, days and days before,
+they had been refused admittance! They were accompanied this time by an
+order from the governor of Montevideo, and at last were taken in. Two of
+the cases were, by this time, in the favourable change. But the poor old
+cook, who stood faithfully by me, and would not desert his old
+shipmates, going with them to the Island to care for them to the last,
+took the dread disease, died of it, and was there buried, not far from
+where he himself had buried his friend Jose, a short time before. The
+death of this faithful man occurred on the day that the bark finally
+sailed seaward, by the Island. She was in sight from the hospital
+window when his phantom ship, that put out, carried him over the bar!
+His widow, at Paranagua, I was told, on learning the fate of her
+husband, died of grief.
+
+The work of disinfecting the vessel, at Montevideo, after the sick were
+removed, was a source of speculation that was most elaborately carried
+on. Demijohns of carbolic acid were put on board, by the dozen, at $3.00
+per demijohn, all diluted ready for use; and a _guardo_ was put on board
+to use it up, which he did religiously over his own precious self, in my
+after-cabin, as far from the end of the ship where the danger was as he
+could get. Some one else disinfected _el proa_, not he! Abundant as the
+stuff was, I had to look sharp for enough to wash out forward while aft
+it was knee-deep almost, at three dollars a jar! The harpy that alighted
+on deck at Maldonado sent in his bill for one hundred dollars--I paid
+eighty.
+
+The cost to me of all this trouble in money paid out, irrelevantly to
+mention, was over a thousand dollars. What it cost me in health and
+mental anxiety cannot be estimated by such value. Still, I was not the
+greatest sufferer. My hardest task was to come, you will believe, at the
+gathering up of the trinkets and other purchases which the crew had
+made, thoughtful of wife and child at home. All had to be burned, or
+spoiled with carbolic acid! A hat for the little boy here, a pair of
+boots for his mamma there, and many things for the _familia_ all
+around--all had to be destroyed!
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[2] In our discourse, Yahoo was spoken, but I write it in
+English because many of my readers would not understand the original.
+The signals that we used were made by universal code symbols. For
+example, two flags hoisted representing "P" "D" signified "want (or
+wants) immediate medical assistance." And so on, by hoists of two, three
+or four flags representing the consonants, our wants and wishes could be
+made known, each possessing the key to the code.
+
+Our commercial code of signals is so invented and arranged that no
+matter what tongues may meet, perhaps those utterly incomprehensible by
+word of mouth, yet by these signs communications may be carried on with
+great facility. The whole system is so beautifully simple that a child
+of ordinary intelligence can understand it. Even the Yahoos were made to
+comprehend--when not colour-blind. And, lest they should forget their
+lesson, a gunboat is sent out every year or two, to fire it into them
+with cannon.
+
+[3] This _cachazza_ is said to be death to microbes, or even to
+larger worms; it will kill anything, in fact, except a Yahoo!
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII
+
+     A new crew--Sail for Antonina--Load timber--Native canoes--Loss of
+     the _Aquidneck_.
+
+
+After all this sad trouble was over, a new crew was shipped, and the
+_Aquidneck's_ prow again turned seaward. Passing out by Flores, soon
+after, we observed the coast-guard searching, I learned, for a supposed
+sunken bark, which had appeared between squalls in the late gale with
+signals of distress set. I was satisfied from the account that it was
+our bark which they had seen in the gale, and the supposed flags were
+our tattered sails, what there was left of them, streaming in the storm.
+But we did not discourage the search, as it could do no harm, and I
+thought that they might perhaps find something else worth knowing about.
+This was the day, as I have said, on which my faithful cook died, while
+the bark was in sight from the window of his sick ward. It was a bright,
+fine day to us. We cannot say that it was otherwise than bright to him.
+
+Breathing once more the fresh air of the sea, we set all sail for
+Paranagua, passing the lights on the coast to leave them flickering on
+the horizon, then soon out of sight. Fine weather prevailed, but with
+much head wind; still we progressed, and rarely a day passed but
+something of the distance toward our port was gained. One day, however,
+coming to an island, one that was inhabited only by birds, we came to a
+stand, as if it were impossible to go farther on the voyage; a spell
+seemed to hang over us. I recognized the place as one that I knew well;
+a very dear friend had stood by me on deck, looking at this island,
+some years before. It was the last land that my friend ever saw. I would
+fain have sailed around it now, but a puff of fair wind coming sent us
+on our course for the time some leagues beyond. At sunset, though, this
+wind went down, and with the current we drifted back so much that by the
+next day we were farther off on the other side. However, fair wind
+coming again, we passed up inside, making thus the circuit of the island
+at last.
+
+More or less favourable winds thenceforth filled our sails, till at last
+our destined port was gained.
+
+The little town of Antonina, where my wife and Garfield had remained
+over during this voyage, twelve miles up the bay from Paranagua, soon
+after our arrival, was made alive with the noise of children marching to
+children's own music, my "Yawcob" heading the band with a brand-new
+ninety-cent organ, the most envied fellow of the whole crowd. Sorrows of
+the past took flight, or were locked in the closet at home, the fittest
+place for past misfortunes.
+
+A truly hard voyage for us all was that to Montevideo! The survivors
+reached home after a while. Their features were terribly marked and
+disfigured; so much so that I did not know them till they accosted me
+when we met.
+
+I look back with pleasure to the good character of my Brazilian sailors,
+regretting the more their hard luck and sad fate! We may meet again!
+_Quien sabe!_
+
+Getting over all this sad business as best we could, we entered on the
+next venture, which was to purchase and load a cargo of the famous
+Brazilian wood. The _Aquidneck_ was shifted to an arm of the bay, where
+she was moored under the lee of a virgin forest, twenty minutes' canoe
+ride from the village of Guarakasava, where she soon began to load.
+
+The timber of this country, generally very heavy, is nevertheless hauled
+by hand to the water, where, lashed to canoes, it is floated to the
+ship.
+
+These canoes, formed sometimes from mammoth trees, skilfully shaped and
+dug out with care, are at once the carriage and _cariole_ of the family
+to the _citio_, or the rice to mill. Roads are hardly known where the
+canoe is available; men, women, and children are consequently alike,
+skilled in the art of canoeing to perfection, almost. There are no
+carriages to speak of in such places, even a saddle horse about the
+waterfront is a _rara avis_. There was, indeed, one horse at
+Guarakasava--the owner of it was very conspicuous.
+
+The family canoe just spoken of, has the capacity, often, of several
+tons, is handsomely decorated with carvings along the topsides, and is
+painted, as the "Geordie" would say, "in none o' your gaudy colours, but
+in good plain red or blue"--sometimes, however, they are painted green.
+
+The cost of these handsome canoes are, say, from $250 down in price and
+size, from the grand turnout to the one-man craft which may be purchased
+for five milreis ($2.50).
+
+From the greatest to the smallest they are cared for with almost an
+affectionate care, and are made to last many years.
+
+One thing else which even the poorest Brazilian thinks much of is his
+affectionate wife who literally and figuratively is often in the same
+boat with her husband, pulling against the stream. Family ties are
+strong in Brazil and the sweet flower of friendship thrives in its sunny
+clime. The system of land and sea breezes prevail on the coast from Cape
+Frio to Saint Catherine with great regularity most of the year; the sail
+is therefore used to good advantage by the almost amphibious
+inhabitants along the coast who love the water and take to it like ducks
+and natural born sailors.
+
+The wind falling light they propel their canoes by paddle or long pole
+with equal facility. The occupants standing, in the smaller ones, force
+them along at a great speed. The larger ones, when the wind does not
+serve, are pulled by banks of oars which are fastened to stout pegs in
+the gunwail with grummits, that fit loosely over the oars so as to allow
+them free play in the hand of the waterman.
+
+Curling the water with fine, shapely prows as they dart over the smooth
+waters of the bays and rivers, these canoes present a picture of
+unrivalled skill and grace.
+
+I find the following entry in my diary made near the close of
+transactions at Guarakasava which in the truthful word of an historian I
+am bound to record, if only to show my prevailing high opinion of the
+natives while I was among them:--
+
+
+                                             GUARAKASAVA, Dec. 20th.
+
+     Heretofore I have doted on native Brazilian honesty as well as
+     national seamanship and skill in canoes but my dream of a perfect
+     paradise is now unsettled forever. I find, alas! that even here the
+     fall of Adam is felt: Taking in some long poles to-day the negro
+     tallyman persisted in counting twice the same pole. When the first
+     end entered the port it was "_umo_" (one); when the last end
+     disappeared into the ship he would sing out "_does_" (two).
+
+
+I had no serious difficulty over the matter, but left Guarakasava with
+that hurt feeling which comes of being over persuaded that one and one
+make four.
+
+We spent Christmas of 1887 at Guarakasava. The bark was loaded soon
+after, and when proceeding across the bay, where currents and wind
+caught her foul near a dangerous sand bar, she misstayed and went on the
+strand. The anchor was let go to club her. It wouldn't hold in the
+treacherous sands; so she dragged and stranded broadside on, where, open
+to the sea, a strong swell came in that raked her fore and aft for three
+days, the waves dashing over her groaning hull the while till at last
+her back was broke and--why not add heart as well! for she lay now
+undone. After twenty-five years of good service the _Aquidneck_ here
+ended her days!
+
+I had myself carried load on load, but alas! I could not carry a
+mountain; and was now at the end where my best skill and energy could
+not avail. What was to be done? What could be done? We had indeed the
+appearance of shipwrecked people, away, too, from home.
+
+This was no time to weep, for the lives of all the crew were saved;
+neither was it a time to laugh, for our loss was great.
+
+But the sea calmed down, and I sold the wreck, which floated off at the
+end of the storm. And after paying the crew their wages out of the
+proceeds had a moiety left for myself and family--a small sum.
+
+Then I began to look about for the future, and for means of escape from
+exile. The crew (foreign) found shipping for Montevideo, where they had
+joined the _Aquidneck_, in lieu of the stricken Brazilian sailors. But
+for myself and family this outlet was hardly available, even if we had
+cared to go farther from home,--which was the least of our thoughts; and
+there were no vessels coming our way.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX
+
+     The building of the _Liberdade_.
+
+
+     Away, away, no cloud is lowering o'er us
+     Freely now we stem the wave;
+     Hoist, hoist all sail, before us
+     Hope's beacon shines to cheer the brave.
+                                          --_Masaniello_.
+
+
+When all had been saved from the wreck that was worth saving, or that
+could be saved, we found ourselves still in the possession of some goods
+soon to become of great value to us, especially my compass and charts
+which, though much damaged, were yet serviceable and suggested practical
+usefulness; and the chronometer being found intact, my course was no
+longer undecided, my wife and sons agreeing with what I thought best.
+
+The plan, in a word, was this: We could not beg our way, neither would
+we sit idle among the natives. We found that it would require more
+courage to remain in the far-off country than to return home in a boat,
+which then we concluded to build and for that purpose.[4]
+
+My son Victor, with much pride and sympathy, entered heartily into the
+plan, which promised a speedy return home. He bent his energies in a
+practical direction, working on the boat like an old builder.
+
+Before entering on the project, however, all responsibilities were
+considered. Swift ocean currents around capes and coral reefs were taken
+into account; and above all else to be called dangerous we knew would
+be the fierce tropical storms which surely we would encounter.
+
+[Illustration: Diagram of the _Liberdade_
+
+(Length 35 ft. beam 71/2 ft., draught 21/2 ft. weight 6 tons.)]
+
+But a boat should be built stout and strong, we all said, one in which
+we should not be afraid to trust our lives even in the storm.
+
+And with the advantage of experience in ships and boats of various sizes
+and in many seas, I turned to the work of constructing, according to my
+judgment and means, a craft which would be best adapted to all weathers
+and all circumstances. My family with sympathetic strength pulling hard
+in the same direction.
+
+Seaworthiness was to be the first and most prominent feature in our
+microscopic ship; next to this good quality she should sail well; at
+least before free winds. We counted on favourable winds; and so they
+were experienced the greater part of the voyage that soon followed.
+
+Long exposures and many and severe disappointments by this time, I
+found, had told on health and nerve, through long quarantines, expensive
+fumigations, and ruinous doctors' visits, which had swept my dollars
+into hands other than mine. However, with still a "shot in the locker,"
+and with some feelings of our own in the matter of how we should get
+home, I say, we set to work with tools saved from the wreck--a meagre
+kit--and soon found ourselves in command of another ship, which I will
+describe the building of, also the dimensions and the model and rig,
+first naming the tools with which it was made.
+
+To begin with, we had an axe, an adze, and two saws, one 1/2inch auger,
+one 6/8 and one 3/8 auger-bit; two large sail-needles, which we
+converted into nailing bits; one roper, that answered for a punch; and,
+most precious of all, a file that we found in an old sail-bag washed up
+on the beach. A square we readily made. Two splints of bamboo wood
+served as compasses. Charcoal, pounded as fine as flour and mixed in
+water, took the place of chalk for the line; the latter we had on hand.
+In cases where holes larger than the 6/8 bit were required, a piece of
+small jack-stay iron was heated, and with this we could burn a hole to
+any size required. So we had, after all, quite a kit to go on with.
+Clamps, such as are used by boat builders, we had not, but made
+substitutes from the crooked guava tree and from _massaranduba_ wood.
+
+Trees from the neighbouring forest were felled when the timber from the
+wrecked cargo would not answer. Some of these woods that we sought for
+special purposes had queer sounding names, such as _arregebah,
+guanandee, batetenandinglastampai_, etc. This latter we did not use the
+saw upon at all, it being very hard, but hewed it with the axe, bearing
+in mind that we had but one file, whereas for the edged tools we had but
+to go down to a brook hard by to find stones in abundance suitable to
+sharpen them on.
+
+The many hindrances encountered in the building of the boat will not be
+recounted here. Among the least was a jungle fever, from which we
+suffered considerably. But all that and all other obstacles vanished at
+last, or became less, before a new energy which grew apace with the
+boat, and the building of the craft went rapidly forward. There was no
+short day system, but we rested on the Sabbath, or surveyed what we had
+done through the week, and made calculations of what and how to strike
+on the coming week.
+
+The unskilled part of the labour, such as sawing the cedar planks, of
+which she was mostly made, was done by the natives, who saw in a rough
+fashion, always leaving much planing and straightening to be done, in
+order to adjust the timber to a suitable shape. The planks for the
+bottom were of ironwood, 11/4 X 10 inches. For the sides and top red cedar
+was used, each plank, with the exception of two, reaching the whole
+length of the boat. This arrangement of exceedingly heavy wood in the
+bottom, and the light on top, contributed much to the stability of the
+craft.
+
+The ironwood was heavy as stone, while the cedar, being light and
+elastic, lent buoyancy and suppleness, all that we could wish for.
+
+The fastenings we gathered up in various places, some from the bulwarks
+of the wreck, some from the hinges of doors and skylights, and some were
+made from the ship's metal sheathing, which the natives melted and cast
+into nails. Pure copper nails, also, were procured from the natives,
+some ten _kilos_, for which I paid in copper coins, at the rate of two
+_kilos_ of coin for one _kilo_ of nails. The same kind of coins, called
+_dumps_, cut into diamond-shaped pieces, with holes punched through
+them, entered into the fastenings as burrs for the nails. A number of
+small eyebolts from the spanker-boom of the wreck were turned to account
+for lashing bolts in the deck of the new vessel. The nails, when too
+long, were cut to the required length, taking care that the ends which
+were cut off should not be wasted, but remelted, along with the metal
+sheathing, into other nails.
+
+Some carriage bolts, with nuts, which I found in the country, came in
+very handy; these I adjusted to the required length, when too long, by
+slipping on blocks of wood of the required thickness to take up the
+surplus length, putting the block, of course, on the inside, and
+counter-sinking the nut flush with the planks on the outside; then
+screwing from the inside outward, they were drawn together, and there
+held as in a vice, the planks being put together "lap-streak" fashion,
+which without doubt is the strongest way to build a boat.
+
+These screw-bolts, seventy in number, as well as the copper nails, cost
+us dearly, but wooden pegs, with which also she was fastened, cost only
+the labour of being made. The lashings, too, that we used here and there
+about the frame of the cabin, cost next to nothing, being made from the
+fibrous bark of trees, which could be had in abundance by the stripping
+of it off. So, taking it by and large, our materials were not expensive,
+the principal item being the timber, which cost about three cents per
+superficial foot, sawed or hewed. Rosewood, ironwood, cedar or mahogany,
+were all about the same price and very little in advance of common wood;
+so of course we selected always the best, the labour of shaping being
+least, sometimes, where the best materials were used.
+
+These various timbers and fastenings, put together as best we could
+shape and join them, made a craft sufficiently strong and seaworthy to
+withstand all the bufferings on the main upon which, in due course, she
+was launched.
+
+The hull being completed, by various other contrivances and makeshifts
+in which, sometimes, the "wooden blacksmith" was called in to assist,
+and the mother of invention also lending a hand, fixtures were made
+which served as well on the voyage as though made in a dockyard and at
+great cost.
+
+My builders baulked at nothing, and on the 13th day of May, the day on
+which the slaves of Brazil were set free, our craft was launched, and
+was named _Liberdade_ (Liberty).
+
+Her dimensions being--35 feet in length over all, 71/2 feet breadth of
+beam, and 3 feet depth of hold. Who shall say that she was not large
+enough?
+
+Her model I got from my recollections of Cape Ann dories and from a
+photo of a very elegant Japanese _sampan_ which I had before me on the
+spot, so, as it might be expected, when finished she resembled both
+types of vessel in some degree.
+
+Her rig was the Chinese _sampan_ style, which is, I consider, the most
+convenient boat rig in the whole world.
+
+This was the boat, or canoe I prefer to call it, in which we purposed to
+sail for North America and home. Each one had been busy during the
+construction and past misfortunes had all been forgotten. Madam had made
+the sails--and very good sails they were, too!
+
+Victor, the carpenter, ropemaker, and general roustabout had performed
+his part. Our little man, Garfield, too, had found employment in holding
+the hammer to clinch the nails and giving much advice on the coming
+voyage. All were busy, I say, and no one had given a thought of what we
+were about to encounter from the port officials farther up the coast; it
+was pretended by them that a passport could not be granted to so small a
+craft to go on so long a voyage as the contemplated one to North
+America.
+
+Then fever returned to the writer and the constructor of the little
+craft, and I was forced to go to bed, remaining there three days.
+Finally, it came to my mind that in part of a medicine chest, which had
+been saved from the wreck, was stored some _arsenicum_, I think it is
+called. Of this I took several doses (small ones at first, you may be
+sure), and the good effect of the deadly poison on the malaria in my
+system was soon felt trickling through my veins. Increasing the doses
+somewhat, I could perceive the beneficial effect hour by hour, and in a
+few days I had quite recovered from the malady. Absurd as it was to have
+the judgment of sailors set on by pollywog navigators, we had still to
+submit, the pollywogs being numerous.
+
+About this time--as the astrologers say--a messenger came down from the
+_Alfandega_ (Custom House), asking me to repair thither at midday on the
+morrow. This filled me with alarm. True, the messenger has delivered his
+message in the politest possible manner, but that signified nothing,
+since Brazilians are always polite. This thing, small as it seems now,
+came near sending me back to the fever.
+
+What had I done?
+
+I went up next day, after having nightmare badly all night, prepared to
+say that I wouldn't do it again! The kind administrator I found, upon
+presenting myself at his office, had no fault to charge me with; but had
+a good word, instead. "The little _Liberdade_," he observed, had
+attracted the notice of his people and his own curiosity, as being "a
+handsome and well-built craft." This and many other flattering
+expressions were vented, at which I affected surprise, but secretly
+said, "I think you are right, sir, and you have good taste, too, if you
+are a customs officer."
+
+The drift of this flattery, to make a long story short, was to have me
+build a boat for the _Alfandega_, or, his government not allowing money
+to build new--pointing to one which certainly would require new keel,
+planks, ribs, stem, and stern-post--"could I not repair one?"
+
+To this proposition I begged time to consider. Flattering as the
+officer's words were, and backed by the offer of liberal pay, so long as
+the boat could be "repaired," I still had no mind to remain in the hot
+country, and risk getting the fever again. But there was the old hitch
+to be gotten over; namely, the passport, on which, we thought, depended
+our sailing.
+
+However, to expedite matters, a fishing licence was hit upon, and I
+wondered why I had not thought of that before, having been, once upon a
+time, a fisherman myself. Heading thence on a new diplomatic course, I
+commenced to fit ostensibly for a fishing voyage. To this end, a fishing
+net was made, which would be a good thing to have, anyway. Then hooks
+and lines were rigged and a cable made. This cable, or rope, was formed
+from vines that grow very long on the sand-banks just above tide water,
+several of which twisted together make a very serviceable rope, then
+being light and elastic, it is especially adapted for a boat anchor
+rope, or for the storm drag. Ninety fathoms of this rope was made for us
+by the natives, for the sum of ten milreis ($5.00).
+
+The anchor came of itself almost. I had made a wooden one from heavy
+sinking timber, but a stalwart ranchman coming along, one day, brought a
+boat anchor with him which, he said, had been used by his slaves as a
+pot-hook. "But now that they are free and away," said he, "I have no
+further use for the crooked thing." A sewing-machine, which had served
+to stitch the sails together, was coveted by him, and was of no further
+use to us; in exchange for this the prized anchor was readily secured,
+the owner of it leaving us some boot into the bargain. Things working
+thus in our favour, the wooden anchor was stowed away to be kept as a
+spare bower.
+
+These arrangements completed, our craft took on the appearance of a
+fishing smack, and I began to feel somewhat in my old element, with no
+fear of the lack of ways and means when we should arrive on our own
+coast, where I knew of fishing banks. And a document which translated
+read: "A licence to catch fish inside and outside of the bar" was
+readily granted by the port authorities.
+
+"How far outside the bar may this carry us?" I asked.
+
+"_Quien sabe!_" said the officer. (Literally translated, "Who knows?"
+but in Spanish or Portuguese used for, "Nobody knows, or, I don't
+care.")
+
+"Adieu, senor," said the polite official; "we will meet in heaven!"
+
+This meant you can go since you insist upon it, but I must not
+officially know of it; and you will probably go to the bottom. In this
+he and many others were mistaken.
+
+Having the necessary document now in our possession, we commenced to
+take in stores for the voyage, as follows: Sea-biscuits, 120 lbs.;
+flour, 25 lbs.; sugar, 30 lbs.; coffee, 9 lbs., which, roasted black and
+pounded fine as wheaten flour, was equal to double the amount as
+prepared in North America, and afforded us a much more delicious cup.
+
+Of tea we had 3 lbs.; pork, 20 lbs.; dried beef, 100 lbs.; _baccalao
+secca_ (dried codfish), 20 lbs.; 2 bottles of honey, 200 oranges, 6
+bunches of bananas, 120 gallons of water; also a small basket of yams,
+and a dozen sticks of sugar-cane, by way of vegetables.
+
+Our medicine chest contained Brazil nuts, pepper, and cinnamon; no other
+medicines or condiments were required on the voyage, except table salt,
+which we also had.
+
+One musket and a carbine--which had already stood us in good
+stead--together with ammunition and three cutlasses were stowed away for
+last use, to be used, nevertheless, in case of necessity.
+
+The light goods I stowed in the ends of the canoe, the heavier in the
+middle and along the bottom, thus economizing space and lending to the
+stability of the canoe. Over the top of the midship stores a floor was
+made, which, housed over by a tarpaulin roof reaching three feet above
+the deck of the canoe, supported by a frame of bamboo, gave us sitting
+space of four feet from the floor to the roof, and twelve feet long
+amidships. This arrangement of cabin in the centre gave my passengers a
+berth where the least motion would be felt; even this is saying but
+little, for best we could do to avoid it we had still to accept much
+tossing from the waves.
+
+Precautionary measures were taken in everything, so far as our resources
+and skill could reach. The springy and buoyant bamboo was used wherever
+stick of any kind was required, such as the frame and braces for the
+cabin, yards for the sails, and, finally, for guard on her top sides,
+making the canoe altogether a self-righting one, in case of a capsize.
+Each joint in the bamboo was an air-chamber of several pounds buoyant
+capacity, and we had a thousand joints.
+
+The most important of our stores, particularly the flour, bread, and
+coffee, were hermetically sealed, so that if actually turned over at
+sea, our craft would not only right herself, but would bring her stores
+right side up, in good order, and it then would be only a question of
+baling her out, and of setting her again on her course, when we would
+come on as right as ever. As it turned out, however, no such trial or
+mishap awaited us.
+
+While the possibility of many and strange occurrences was felt by all of
+us, the danger which loomed most in little Garfield's mind was that of
+the sharks.
+
+A fine specimen was captured on the voyage, showing five rows of pearly
+teeth, as sharp as lances.
+
+Some of these monsters, it is said, have nine rows of teeth; that they
+are always hungry is admitted by sailors of great experience.
+
+How it is that sailors can go in bathing, as they often do, in the face
+of a danger so terrible, is past my comprehension. Their business is to
+face danger, to be sure, but this is a needless exposure, for which the
+penalty is sometimes a life. The second mate of a bark on the coast of
+Cuba, not long ago, was bitten in twain, and the portions swallowed
+whole by a monster shark that he had tempted in this way. The shark was
+captured soon after, and the poor fellow's remains taken out of the
+revolting maw.
+
+Leaving the sharks where they are, I gladly return to the voyage of the
+_Liberdade_.
+
+FOOTNOTE:
+
+[4] This alternative I was obliged to accept, or bring my
+family home as paupers, for my wealth was gone--need I explain more?
+This explanation has been forced from me.
+
+[Illustration: The _Liberdade_]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X
+
+     Across the bar--The run to Santos--Tow to Rio by the steamship--At
+     Rio.
+
+
+The efficiency of our canoe was soon discovered: On the 24th of June,
+after having sailed about the bay some few days to temper our feelings
+to the new craft, and shake things into place, we crossed the bar and
+stood out to sea, while six vessels lay inside "bar-bound," that is to
+say by their pilots it was thought too rough to venture out, and they,
+the pilots, stood on the point as we put out to sea, crossing themselves
+in our behalf, and shouting that the bar was _crudo_. But the
+_Liberdade_ stood on her course, the crew never regretting it.
+
+The wind from the sou'west at the time was the moderating side of a
+_pampeiro_ which had brought in a heavy swell from the ocean, that broke
+and thundered on the bar with deafening roar and grand display of
+majestic effort.
+
+But our little ship bounded through the breakers like a fish--as natural
+to the elements, and as free!
+
+Of all the seas that broke furiously about her that day, often standing
+her on end, not one swept over or even boarded her, and she finally came
+through the storm of breakers in triumph. Then squaring away before the
+wind she spread her willing sails, and flew onward like a bird.
+
+It required confidence and some courage to face the first storm in so
+small a bark, after having been years in large ships; but it would have
+required more courage than was possessed by any of us to turn back,
+since thoughts of home had taken hold on our minds.
+
+Then, too, the old boating trick came back fresh to me, the love of the
+thing itself gaining on me as the little ship stood out: and my crew
+with one voice said: "Go on." The heavy South Atlantic swell rolling in
+upon the coast, as we sped along, toppled over when it reached the ten
+fathom line, and broke into roaring combers, which forbade our nearer
+approach to the land.
+
+Evidently, our safest course was away from the shore, and out where the
+swelling seas, though grand, were regular, and raced under our little
+craft that danced like a mite on the ocean as she drove forward. In
+twenty-four hours from the time Paranagua bar was crossed we were up
+with Santos Heads, a run of 150 miles.
+
+A squall of wind burst on us through a gulch, as we swept round the
+Heads, tearing our sails into shreds, and sending us into Santos under
+bare poles.
+
+Chancing then upon an old friend, the mail steamship _Finance_, Capt.
+Baker, about to sail for Rio, the end of a friendly line was extended to
+us, and we were towed by the stout steamer toward Rio, the next day, as
+fast as we could wish to go. My wife and youngest sailor took passage on
+the steamer, while Victor remained in the canoe with me, and stood by
+with axe in hand, to cut the tow-line, if the case should require
+it--and I steered.
+
+"Look out," said Baker, as the steamer began to move ahead, "look out
+that I don't snake that canoe out from under you."
+
+"Go on with your mails, Baker," was all I could say, "don't blow up your
+ship with my wife and son on board, and I will look out for the packet
+on the other end of the rope."
+
+Baker opened her up to thirteen knots, but the _Liberdade_ held on!
+
+The line that we towed with was 1-1/3 inches in diameter, by ninety
+fathoms long. This, at times when the steamer surged over seas, leaving
+the canoe on the opposite side of a wave astern, would become as taut as
+a harp-string. At other times it would slacken and sink limp in a bight,
+under the forefoot, but only for a moment, however, when the steamer's
+next great plunge ahead would snap it taut again, pulling us along with
+a heavy, trembling jerk. Under the circumstances, straight steering was
+imperative, for a sheer to port or starboard would have finished the
+career of the _Liberdade_, by sending her under the sea. Therefore, the
+trick of twenty hours fell to me--the oldest and most experienced
+helmsman. But I was all right and not over-fatigued until Baker cast oil
+upon the "troubled waters." I soon got tired of that.
+
+Victor was under the canvas covering, with the axe still in hand, ready
+to cut the line which was so arranged that he could reach it from
+within, and cut instantly, if by mischance the canoe should take a
+sheer.
+
+I was afraid that the lad would become sleepy, and putting his head
+"under his wing" for a nap, would forget his post, but my frequent cry,
+"Stand by there, Victor," found him always on hand, though complaining
+somewhat of the dizzy motion.
+
+Heavy sprays dashed over me at the helm, which, however, seeming to wash
+away the sulphur and brimstone smoke of many a quarantine, brought
+enjoyment to my mind.
+
+Confused waves rose about us, high and dangerous--often high above the
+gunwale of the canoe--but her shapely curves balanced her well, and she
+rode over them all in safety.
+
+This canoe ride was thrilling and satisfactory to us all. It proved
+beyond a doubt that we had in this little craft a most extraordinary
+sea-boat, for the tow was a thorough test of her seaworthiness.
+
+The captain of the steamer ordered oil cast over from time to time,
+relieving us of much spray and sloppy motion, but adding to discomforts
+of taste to me at the helm, for much of the oil blew over me and in my
+face. Said the captain to one of his mates (an old whaler by the way,
+and whalers for some unaccountable reason have never too much regard for
+a poor merchantman), "Mr. Smith."
+
+"Aye, aye, sir," answered old Smith.
+
+"Mr. Smith, hoist out that oil."
+
+"Aye, aye, sir," said the old "blubberhunter," in high glee, as he went
+about it with alacrity, and in less than five minutes from the time the
+order was given, I was smothering in grease and our boat was oiled from
+keel to truck.
+
+"She's all right now," said Smith.
+
+"That's all right," said Baker, but I thought it all wrong. The wind,
+meanwhile, was in our teeth and before we crossed Rio bar I had
+swallowed enough oil to cure any amount of consumption.
+
+Baker, I have heard, said he wouldn't care much if he should "drown
+Slocum." But I was all right so long as the canoe didn't sheer, and we
+arrived at Rio safe and sound after the most exciting boat-ride of my
+life. I was bound not to cut the line that towed us so well; and I knew
+that Baker wouldn't let it go, for it was his rope.
+
+I found at Rio that my fishing licence could be exchanged for a pass of
+greater import. This document had to be procured through the office of
+the Minister of Marine.
+
+Many a smart linguist was ready to use his influence on my behalf with
+the above-named high official; but I found at the end of a month that I
+was making headway about as fast as a Dutch galliot in a head sea after
+the wind had subsided. Our worthy Consul, General H. Clay Armstrong,
+gave me a hint of what the difficulty was and how to obviate it. I then
+went about the business myself as I should have done at first, and I
+found those at the various departments who were willing to help me
+without the intervention of outside "influence."
+
+Commander Marquis of the Brazilian navy recommended me to His
+Excellency, the Minister of Marine, "out of regard," he said, "for
+American seamen," and when the new document came it was "_Passe
+Especial_," and had on it _a seal as big as a soup plate_. A port naval
+officer then presented me to the good _Administradore,_ who also gave me
+a _passe especial_, with the seal of the _Alfandega_.
+
+I had now only to procure a bill of health, when I should have papers
+enough for a man-o'-war. Rio being considered a healthy place, this was
+readily granted, making our equipment complete.
+
+I met here our minister whose office, with other duties, is to keep a
+weather-eye lifting in the interest of that orphan, the American
+ship--alas, my poor relation! Said he, "Captain, if your _Liberdade_ be
+as good as your papers" (documents given me by the Brazilian officials),
+"you may get there all right"; adding, "well, if the boat ever reaches
+home she will be a great curiosity," the meaning of which, I could
+readily infer, was, "and your chances for a snap in a dime museum will
+be good." This, after many years of experience as an American
+shipmaster, and also shipowner, in a moderate way, was interesting
+encouragement. By our Brazilian friends, however, the voyage was looked
+upon as a success already achieved.
+
+
+     The utmost confidence [said the "Journal Opiz," of Rio], is placed
+     in the cool-headed, audacious American mariner, and we expect in a
+     short time to hear proclaimed in all of the journals of the Old and
+     New World the safe arrival of this wonderful little craft at her
+     destination, ourselves taking part in the glory. (Temos confianca
+     na pericia e sangue frio do audaciauso marinhero Americano por isso
+     esperamos que dentro em pouco tempo veremos o seu nome proclamado
+     por todos os jornaes do velho e novo mundo. A nos tambem cabera
+     parte da gloria.)
+
+
+With these and like kind expressions from all of our _friends_, we took
+leave of Rio, sailing on the morning of July 23rd, 1888.
+
+[Illustration: Course of the _Liberdade_ from Paranagua to Barbadoes]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI
+
+     Sail from Rio--Anchor at Cape Frio--Encounter with a whale--Sunken
+     treasure--The schoolmaster--The merchant--The good people at the
+     village--A pleasant visit.
+
+
+July 23rd, 1888, was the day, as I have said, on which we sailed from
+Rio de Janeiro.
+
+Meeting with head winds and light withal, through the day we made but
+little progress; and finally, when night came on, we anchored twenty
+miles east of Rio Heads, near the shore. Long, rolling seas rocked us as
+they raced by, then, dashing their great bodies against defying rocks,
+made music by which we slept that night. But a trouble unthought of
+before came up in Garfield's mind before going to his bunk; "Mamma,"
+cried he, as our little bark rose and fell on the heavy waves, tumbling
+the young sailor about from side to side in the small quarters while he
+knelt seriously at his evening devotion, "mamma, this boat isn't big
+enough to pray in!" But this difficulty was gotten over in time, and
+Garfield learned to watch as well as to pray on the voyage, and full of
+faith that all would be well, laid him down nights and slept as
+restfully as any Christian on sea or land.
+
+By daylight of the second day we were again underweigh, beating to the
+eastward against the old head wind and head sea. On the following night
+we kept her at it, and the next day made Cape Frio where we anchored
+near the entrance to a good harbour.
+
+Time from Rio, two days; distance, 70 miles.
+
+The wind and tide being adverse, compelled us to wait outside for a
+favourable change. While comfortably anchored at this place, a huge
+whale, nosing about, came up under the canoe, giving us a toss and a
+great scare. We were at dinner when it happened. The meal, it is
+needless to say, was finished without dessert. The great sea
+animal--fifty to sixty feet long--circling around our small craft,
+looked terribly big. He was so close to me twice, as he swam round and
+round the canoe, that I could have touched him either time with a
+paddle. His flukes stirring the water like a steamer propeller appeared
+alarmingly close and powerful!--and what an ugly mouth the monster had!
+Well, we expected instant annihilation. The fate of the stout whale-ship
+_Essex_ came vividly before me. The voyage of the _Liberdade_, I
+thought, was about ended, and I looked about for pieces of bamboo on
+which to land my wife and family. Just then, however, to the infinite
+relief of all of us, the leviathan moved off, without doing us much
+harm, having felt satisfied, perhaps, that we had no Jonah on board.
+
+We lost an anchor through the incident, and received some small damage
+to the keel, but no other injury was done--even this, I believe, upon
+second thought, was unintentional--done in playfulness only! "A shark
+can take a joke," it is said, and crack one too, but for broad, rippling
+humour the whale has no equal.
+
+"If this be a sample of our adventures in the beginning," thought I, "we
+shall have enough and to spare by the end of the voyage." A visit from
+this quarter had not been counted on; but Sancho Panza says, "When least
+aware starts the hare," which in our case, by the by, was a great whale!
+
+When our breath came back and the hair on our heads settled to a normal
+level, we set sail, and dodged about under the lee of the cape till a
+cove, with a very enticing sand beach at the head of it, opened before
+us, some three miles northwest of where we lost the anchor in the
+remarkable adventure with the whale. The "spare bower" was soon bent to
+the cable. Then we stood in and anchored near a cliff, over which was a
+goat-path leading in the direction of a small fishing village, about a
+mile away. Sheering the boat in to the rocky side of the cove which was
+steep to, we leaped out, warp in hand, and made fast to a boulder above
+the tidal flow, then, scrambling over the cliff, we repaired to the
+village, first improvising a spare anchor from three sticks and a stone
+which answered the purpose quite well.
+
+Judging at once that we were strangers the villagers came out to meet
+us, and made a stir at home to entertain us in the most hospitable
+manner, after the custom of the country, and with the villagers was a
+gentleman from Canada, a Mr. Newkirk, who, as we learned, was engaged,
+when the sea was smooth, in recovering treasure that was lost near the
+cape in the British warship _Thetis_, which was wrecked there in 1830.
+The treasure, some millions in silver coins and gold in bars, from Peru
+for England, was dumped in the cove, which has since taken the name of
+the ship that bore it there and, as I have said, came to grief in that
+place which is on the west shore near the end of the cape.
+
+Some of the coins were given to us to be treasured as souvenirs of the
+pleasant visit. We found in Mr. Newkirk a versatile, roving genius; he
+had been a schoolmaster at home, captain of a lake schooner once, had
+practised medicine, and preached some, I think; and what else I do not
+know. He had tried many things for a living, but, like the proverbial
+moving stone had failed to accumulate. "Matters," said the Canadian,
+"were getting worse and worse even, till finally to keep my head above
+water I was forced to go under the sea," and he had struck it rich, it
+would seem, if gold being brought in by the boat-load was any sign. This
+man of many adventures still spoke like a youngster; no one had told him
+that he was growing old. He talked of going home, as soon as the balance
+of the treasure was secured, "just to see his dear old mother," who, by
+the way, was seventy-four years old when he left home, some twenty years
+before. Since his last news from home, nearly two decades had gone by.
+He was "the youngest of a family of eighteen children, all living," he
+said, "though," added he, "our family came near being made one less
+yesterday, by a whale which I thought would eat my boat, diving-bell,
+crew, money and all, as he came toward us, with open mouth. By a back
+stroke of the oars, however, we managed to cheat him out of his dinner,
+if that was what he was after, and I think it was, but here I am!" he
+cried, "all right!" and might have added, "wealthy after all."
+
+After hearing the diver's story, I related in Portuguese our own
+adventure of the same day, and probably with the same whale, the monster
+having gone in the direction of the diver's boat. The astonishment of
+the listeners was great; but when they learned of our intended voyage to
+_America do Norte_, they crossed themselves and asked God to lend us
+grace!
+
+"Is North America near New York?" asked the village merchant, who owned
+all the boats and nets of the place.
+
+"Why, America is _in_ New York," answered the ex-schoolmaster.
+
+"I thought so," said the self-satisfied merchant. And no doubt he
+thought some of us very stupid, or rude, or both, but in spite of
+manners I had to smile at the assuring air of the Canadian.
+
+"Why did you not answer him correctly?" I asked of the ex-schoolmaster.
+
+"I answered him," said Newkirk, "according to his folly. Had I corrected
+his rusty geography before these simple, impoverished fishermen, he
+would not soon forgive me; and as for the rest of the poor souls here,
+the knowledge would do them but little good."
+
+I may mention that in this out-of-the-way place there were no schools,
+and except the little knowledge gained in their church, from the
+catechism, and from the fumbling of beads, they were the most innocent
+of this world's scheme, of any people I ever met. But they seemed to
+know all about heaven, and were, no doubt, happy.
+
+After the brief, friendly chat that we had, coffee was passed around,
+the probabilities of the _Liberdade's_ voyage discussed, and the crew
+cautioned against the dangers of the _balaena_ (whale), which were
+numerous along the coast, and vicious at that season of the year, having
+their young to protect.
+
+I realized very often the startling sensation alone of a night at the
+helm, of having a painful stillness broken by these leviathans bursting
+the surface of the water with a noise like the roar of a great sea,
+uncomfortably near, reminding me of the Cape Frio adventure; and my
+crew, I am sure, were not less sensitive to the same feeling of an awful
+danger, however imaginary. One night in particular, dark and foggy I
+remember, Victor called me excitedly, saying that something dreadful
+ahead and drawing rapidly near had frightened him.
+
+It proved to be a whale, for some reason that I could only guess at,
+threshing the sea with its huge body, and surging about in all
+directions, so that it puzzled me to know which way to steer to go
+clear. I thought at first, from the rumpus made, that a fight was going
+on, such as we had once witnessed from the deck of the _Aquidneck_, not
+far from this place. Our course was changed as soon as we could decide
+which way to avoid, if possible, all marine disturbers of the peace. We
+wished especially to keep away from infuriated swordfish, which I feared
+might be darting about, and be apt to give us a blind thrust. Knowing
+that they sometimes pierce stout ships through with their formidable
+weapons, I began to feel ticklish about the ribs myself, I confess, and
+the little watch below, too, got uneasy and sleepless; for one of these
+swords, they knew well, would reach through and through our little boat,
+from keel to deck. Large ships have occasionally been sent into port
+leaky from the stab of a sword, but what I most dreaded was the
+possibility of one of us being ourselves pinned in the boat.
+
+A swordfish once pierced a whale-ship through the planking, and through
+the solid frame timber and the thick ceiling, with his sword, leaving it
+there, a valuable plug indeed, with the point, it was found upon
+unshipping her cargo at New Bedford, even piercing through a cask in the
+hold.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII
+
+     Sail from Frio--Round Cape St. Thome--High seas and swift
+     currents--In the "trades"--Dangerous reefs--Run into harbour
+     unawares, on a dark and stormy night--At Caravellas--Fine
+     weather--A gale--Port St. Paulo--Treacherous natives--Sail for
+     Bahia.
+
+
+July 30th, early in the day, and after a pleasant visit at the cape, we
+sailed for the north, securing first a few sea shells to be cherished,
+with the _Thetis_ relics, in remembrance of a most enjoyable visit to
+the hospitable shores of Cape Frio.
+
+Having now doubled Cape Frio, a prominent point in our voyage, and
+having had the seaworthiness of our little ship thoroughly tested, as
+already told; and seeing, moreover, that we had nothing to fear from
+common small fry of the sea (one of its greatest monsters having failed
+to capsize us), we stood on with greater confidence than ever, but
+watchful, nevertheless, for any strange event that might happen.
+
+A fresh polar wind hurried us on, under shortened sail, toward the
+softer "trades" of the tropics, but, veering to the eastward by
+midnight, it brought us well in with the land. Then, "Larboard watch,
+ahoy! all hands on deck and turn out reefs," was the cry. To weather
+Cape St. Thome we must lug on all sail. And we go over the shoals with a
+boiling sea and current in our favour. In twenty-four hours from Cape
+Frio, we had lowered the Southern Cross three degrees--180 miles.
+
+Sweeping by the cape, the canoe sometimes standing on end, and sometimes
+buried in the deep hollow of the sea, we sunk the light on St. Thome
+soon out of sight and stood on with flowing sheet. The wind on the
+following day settled into regular south-east "trades," and our cedar
+canoe skipped briskly along, over friendly seas that were leaping toward
+home, doffing their crests onward and forward, but never back, and the
+splashing waves against her sides, then rippling along the thin cedar
+planks between the crew and eternity, vibrated enchanting music to the
+ear, while confidence grew in the bark that was HOMEWARD BOUND.
+
+But coming upon coral reefs, of a dark night, while we listened to the
+dismal tune of the seas breaking over them with an eternal roar, how
+intensely lonesome they were! no sign of any living thing in sight,
+except, perhaps, the phosphorescent streaks of a hungry shark, which
+told of bad company in our wake, and made the gloom of the place more
+dismal still.
+
+One night we made shelter under the lee of the extensive reefs called
+the Paredes (walls), without seeing the breakers at all in the dark,
+although they were not far in the distance. At another time, dragging on
+sail to clear a lee shore, of a dark and stormy night, we came suddenly
+into smooth water, where we cast anchor and furled our sails, lying in a
+magic harbour till daylight the next morning, when we found ourselves
+among a maze of ugly reefs, with high seas breaking over them, as far as
+the eye could reach, on all sides, except at the small entrance to the
+place that we had stumbled into in the night. The position of this
+future harbour is South Lat. 16 deg. 48', and West Long, from Greenwich 39 deg.
+30'. We named the place "PORT LIBERDADE."
+
+The next places sighted were the treacherous Abrohles, and the village
+of Caravellas back of the reef where, upon refitting, I found that a
+chicken cost a thousand reis, a bunch of bananas four hundred reis; but
+where a dozen limes cost only twenty reis--one cent. Much whaling gear
+lay strewn about the place, and on the beach was the carcass of a whale
+about nine days slain. Also leaning against a smart-looking boat was a
+grey-haired fisherman, boat and man relics of New Bedford, employed at
+this station in their familiar industry. The old man was bare-footed and
+thinly clad, after the custom in this climate. Still, I recognized the
+fisherman and sailor in the set and rig of the few duds he had on, and
+the ample straw hat (donkey's breakfast) that he wore, and doffed in a
+seaman-like manner, upon our first salute. "_Filio do Mar do Nord
+Americano_," said an affable native close by, pointing at the same time
+to that "son of the sea of North America," by way of introduction, as
+soon as it was learned that we, too, were of that country. I tried to
+learn from this ancient mariner the cause of his being stranded in this
+strange land. He may have been cast up there by the whale for aught I
+could learn to the contrary.
+
+Choosing a berth well to windward of the dead whale--the one that landed
+"the old man of the sea" there, maybe!--we anchored for the night, put a
+light in the rigging and turned in. Next morning, the village was astir
+betimes; canoes were being put afloat, and the rattle of poles, paddles,
+bait boxes, and many more things for the daily trip that were being
+hastily put into each canoe, echoed back from the tall palm groves notes
+of busy life, telling us that it was time to weigh anchor and be
+sailing. To this cheerful tune we lent ear and, hastening to be
+underweigh, were soon clear of the port. Then, skimming along near the
+beach in the early morning, our sails spread to a land breeze, laden
+with fragrance from the tropic forest and the music of many songsters,
+we sailed in great felicity, dreading no dangers from the sea, for
+there were none now to dread or fear.
+
+Proceeding forward through this belt of moderate winds, fanned by
+alternating land and sea breezes, we drew on toward a region of high
+trade-winds that reach sometimes the dignity of a gale. It was no
+surprise, therefore, after days of fine-weather sailing, to be met by a
+storm, which so happened as to drive us into the indifferent anchorage
+of St. Paulo, thirty miles from Bahia, where we remained two days for
+shelter.
+
+Time, three days from Caravellas; distance sailed, 270 miles.
+
+A few fishermen lounged about the place, living, apparently, in wretched
+poverty, spending their time between waiting for the tide to go out,
+when it was in, and waiting for it to come in, when it was out, to float
+a canoe or bring fish to their shiftless nets. This, indeed, seemed
+their only concern in life; while their ill-thatched houses, forsaken of
+the adobe that once clung to the wicker walls, stood grinning in rows,
+like emblems of our mortality.
+
+We found at this St. Paulo anything but saints. The wretched place
+should be avoided by strangers, unless driven there for shelter, as we
+ourselves were, by stress of weather. We left the place on the first
+lull of the wind, having been threatened by an attack from a gang of
+rough, half-drunken fellows, who rudely came on board, jostling about,
+and jabbering in a dialect which, however, I happened to understand. I
+got rid of them by the use of my broken Portuguese, and once away I was
+resolved that they should stay away. I was not mistaken in my suspicions
+that they would return and try to come aboard, which shortly afterward
+they did, but my resolution to keep them off was not shaken. I let them
+know, in their own jargon this time, that I was well armed. They
+finally paddled back to the shore, and all visiting was then ended. We
+stood a good watch that night, and by daylight next morning, Aug. 12th,
+put to sea, standing out in a heavy swell, the character of which I knew
+better, and could trust to more confidently than a harbour among
+treacherous natives.
+
+Early in the same day, we arrived at _Bahia do todos Santos_ (All
+Saints' Bay), a charming port, with a rich surrounding country. It was
+from this port, by the way, that Robinson Crusoe sailed for Africa to
+procure slaves for his plantation and that of his friend, so fiction
+relates.
+
+At Bahia we met many friends and gentle folk. Not the least interesting
+at this port are the negro lasses of fine physique seen at the markets
+and in the streets, with burdens on their heads of baskets of fruit, or
+jars of water, which they balance with ease and grace, as they go
+sweeping by with that stately mien which the dusky maiden can call her
+own.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII
+
+     At Bahia--Meditations on the discoverers--The Caribbees.
+
+
+At Bahia we refitted, with many necessary provisions, and repaired the
+keel, which we found, upon hauling out, had been damaged by the
+encounter with the whale at Frio. An iron shoe was now added for the
+benefit of all marine monsters wishing to scratch their backs on our
+canoe.
+
+Among the many friends whom we met at Bahia were Capt. Boyd and his
+family of the bark _H. W. Palmer_. We shall meet the _Palmer_ and the
+Boyds again on the voyage. They were old traders to South America and
+had many friends at this port who combined to make our visit a pleasant
+one. And their little son Rupert was greatly taken with the
+"_Rib_erdade," as he called her, coming often to see us. And the
+officials of the port taking great interest in our voyage, came often on
+board. No one could have treated us more kindly than they.
+
+The venerable _Administradore_ himself gave us special welcome to the
+port and a kind word upon our departure, accompanied by a present for my
+wife in the shape of a rare white flower, which we cherished greatly as
+coming from a true gentleman.
+
+Some strong abolitionists at the port would have us dine in an epicurean
+way in commemoration of the name given our canoe, which was adopted
+because of her having been put afloat on the thirteenth day of May, the
+day on which every human being in Brazil could say, "I have no master
+but one." I declined the banquet tendered us, having work on hand,
+fortifying the canoe against the ravaging worms of the seas we were yet
+to sail through, bearing in mind the straits of my great predecessor
+from this as well as other causes on his voyage over the Caribbean Seas.
+I was bound to be strengthened against the enemy.
+
+The gout, it will be remembered, seized upon the good Columbus while his
+ship had worms, when both ship and admiral lay stranded among menacing
+savages; surrounded, too, by a lawless, threatening band of his own
+countrymen not less treacherous than the worst of cannibals. His state
+was critical indeed! One calamity was from over-high living--this I was
+bound to guard against--the other was from neglect on the part of his
+people to care for the ship in a seaman-like manner. Of the latter
+difficulty I had no risk to run.
+
+Lazy and lawless, but through the pretext of religion, the infected crew
+wrought on the pious feelings of the good admiral, inducing him at every
+landing to hold mass instead of cleaning the foul ship. Thus through
+petty intrigue and grave neglects, they brought disaster and sorrow on
+their leader and confusion on their own heads. Their religion, never
+deep, could not be expected to keep _Terredo_ from the ship's bottom, so
+her timbers were ravished, and ruin came to them all! Poor Columbus! had
+he but sailed with his son Diego and his noble brother Bartholomew, for
+his only crew and companions, not forgetting the help of a good woman,
+America would have been discovered without those harrowing tales of woe
+and indeed heartrending calamities which followed in the wake of his
+designing people. Nor would his ship have been less well manned than was
+the _Liberdade_, sailing, centuries after, over the same sea and among
+many of the islands visited by the great discoverer--sailing, too,
+without serious accident of any kind, and without sickness or
+discontent. Our advantage over Columbus, I say, was very great, not
+more from the possession of data of the centuries which had passed than
+from having a willing crew sailing without dissent or murmur--sailing in
+the same boat, as it were.
+
+A pensive mood comes over one voyaging among the scenes of the New
+World's early play-ground. To us while on this canoe voyage of pleasant
+recollection the fancied experience of navigators gone before was
+intensely thrilling.
+
+Sailing among islands clothed in eternal green, the same that Columbus
+beheld with marvellous anticipations, and the venerable Las Casas had
+looked upon with pious wonder, brought us, in the mind's eye, near the
+old discoverers; and a feeling that we should come suddenly upon their
+ships around some near headland took deep hold upon our thoughts as we
+drew in with the shores. All was there to please the imagination and
+dream over in the same balmy, sleepy atmosphere, where Juan Ponce de
+Leon would fain have tarried young, but found death rapid, working side
+by side with ever springing life. To live long in this clime one must
+obey great Nature's laws. So stout Juan and millions since have found,
+and so always it will be.
+
+All was there to testify as of yore, all except the first owners of the
+land; they alas! the poor Caribbees, together with their camp fires, had
+been extinguished long years before. And no one of human sympathy can
+read of the cruel tortures and final extermination of these islanders,
+savages though they were, without a pang of regret at the unpleasant
+page in a history of glory and civilization.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV
+
+     Bahia to Pernambuco--The meeting of the _Finance_ at sea--At
+     Pernambuco--Round Cape St. Roque--A gale--Breakers--The stretch to
+     Barbadoes--Flying-fish alighting on deck--Dismasted--Arrive at
+     Carlysle Bay.
+
+
+From Bahia to Pernambuco our course lay along that part of the Brazilian
+coast fanned by constant trade-winds. Nothing unusual occurred to
+disturb our peace or daily course, and we pressed forward night and day,
+as was our wont from the first.
+
+Victor and I stood watch and watch at sea, usually four hours each.
+
+The most difficult of our experiences in fine weather was the intense
+drowsiness brought on by constantly watching the oscillating compass at
+night: even in the daytime this motion would make one sleepy.
+
+We soon found it necessary to arrange a code of signals which would
+communicate between the tiller and the "man forward." This was
+accomplished by means of a line or messenger extending from one to the
+other, which was understood by the number of pulls given by it; three
+pulls, for instance, meant "Turn out," one in response, "Aye, aye, I am
+awake, and what is it that is wanted?" one pull in return signified that
+it was "Eight bells," and so on. But three quick jerks meant "Tumble out
+and shorten sail."
+
+Victor, it was understood, would tie the line to his arm or leg when he
+turned in, so that by pulling I would be sure to arouse him, or bring
+him somewhat unceremoniously out of his bunk. Once, however, the
+messenger failed to accomplish its purpose. A boot came out on the line
+in answer to my call, so easily, too, that I suspected a trick. It was
+evidently a preconceived plan by which to gain a moment more of sleep.
+It was a clear imposition on the man at the wheel!
+
+We had also a sign in this system of telegraphing that told of
+flying-fish on board--manna of the sea--to be gathered up for the
+_cuisine_ whenever they happened to alight or fall on deck, which was
+often, and as often they found a warm welcome.
+
+The watch was never called to make sail. As for myself, I had never to
+be called, having thoughts of the voyage and its safe completion on my
+mind to keep me always on the alert. I can truly say that I never, on
+the voyage, slept so sound as to forget where I was, but whenever I fell
+into a doze at all it would be to dream of the boat and the voyage.
+
+Press on! press on! was the watchword while at sea, but in port we
+enjoyed ourselves and gave up care for rest and pleasure, carrying a
+supply, as it were, to sea with us, where sail was again carried on.
+
+Though a mast should break, it would be no matter of serious concern,
+for we would be at no loss to mend and rig up spars for this craft at
+short notice, most anywhere.
+
+The third day out from Bahia was set fine weather. A few flying-fish
+made fruitless attempts to rise from the surface of the sea, attracting
+but little attention from the sea-gulls which sat looking wistfully
+across the unbroken deep with folded wings.
+
+And the _Liberdade_, doing her utmost to get along through the common
+quiet, made but little progress on her way. A dainty fish played in her
+light wake, till tempted by an evil appetite for flies, it landed in the
+cockpit upon a hook, thence into the pan, where many a one had brought
+up before. Breakfast was cleared away at an early hour; then day of
+good things happened--"the meeting of the ships."
+
+
+     When o'er the silent sea alone
+       For days and nights we've cheerless gone,
+     Oh they who've felt it know how sweet,
+       Some sunny morn a sail to meet.
+
+     Sparkling at once is every eye,
+       "Ship ahoy! ship ahoy!" our joyful cry
+     While answering back the sound we hear,
+       "Ship ahoy! ship ahoy! what cheer, what cheer."
+
+     Then sails are backed, we nearer come,
+       Kind words are said of friends and home,
+     And soon, too soon, we part with pain,
+       To sail o'er silent seas again.
+
+
+On the clear horizon could be seen a ship, which proved to be our
+staunch old friend, the _Finance_, on her way out to Brazil, heading
+nearly for us. Our course was at once changed, so as to cross her bows.
+She rose rapidly, hull up, showing her lines of unmistakable beauty, the
+Stars and Stripes waving over all. They on board the great ship soon
+descried our little boat, and gave sign by a deep whistle that came
+rumbling over the sea, telling us that we were recognized. A few moments
+later and the engines stopped. Then came the hearty hail, "Do you want
+assistance?" Our answer "No" brought cheer on cheer from the steamer's
+deck, while the _Liberdade_ bowed and courtesied to her old
+acquaintance, the superior ship. Captain Baker, meanwhile, not
+forgetting a sailor's most highly prized luxury, had ordered in the
+slings a barrel of potatoes--new from home! Then dump they came, in a
+jiffy, into the canoe, giving her a settle in the water of some inches.
+Other fresh provisions were handed us, also some books and late papers.
+J. Aspinwill Hodge, D.D., on a tour of inspection in the interest of the
+Presbyterian Mission in Brazil--on deck here with his camera--got an
+excellent photograph of the canoe.[5]
+
+One gentleman passed us a bottle of wine, on the label of which was
+written the name of an old acquaintance, a merchant of Rio. We pledged
+Mr. Gudgeon and all his fellow passengers in that wine, and had some
+left long after, to the health of the captain of the ship, and his crew.
+There was but little time for words, so the compliments passed were
+brief. The ample plates in the sides of the _Finance_, inspiring
+confidence in American thoroughness and build, we had hardly time to
+scan, when her shrill whistle said "good-bye," and moving proudly on,
+the great ship was soon out of sight, while the little boat, filling
+away on the starboard tack, sailed on toward home, perfumed with the
+interchange of a friendly greeting, tinged though with a palpable
+lonesomeness. Two days after this pleasant meeting, the Port of
+Pernambuco was reached.
+
+Tumbling in before a fresh "trade" wind that in the evening had sprung
+up, accompanied with long, rolling seas, our canoe came nicely round the
+point between lighted reef and painted buoy.
+
+Spray from the breakers on the reef opportunely wetting her sails gave
+them a flat surface to the wind as we came close haul.
+
+The channel leading up the harbour was not strange to us, so we sailed
+confidently along the lee of the wonderful wall made by worms, to which
+alone Pernambuco is indebted for its excellent harbour; which,
+extending also along a great stretch of the coast, protects Brazil from
+the encroachment of the sea.
+
+At 8 p.m. we came to in a snug berth near the _Alfandega_, and early
+next morning received the official visit from the polite port officers.
+
+Time from Bahia, five days; distance sailed, 390 miles.
+
+Pernambuco, the principal town of a large and wealthy province of the
+same name, is a thriving place, sending out valuable cargoes,
+principally of sugar and cotton. I had loaded costly cargoes here, times
+gone by. I met my old merchant again this time, but could not carry his
+goods on the _Liberdade_. However, fruits from his orchards and a run
+among the trees refreshed my crew, and prepared them for the coming
+voyage to Barbadoes, which was made with expedition.
+
+From Pernambuco we experienced a strong current in our favour, with,
+sometimes, a confused cross sea that washed over us considerably. But
+the swift current sweeping along through it all made compensation for
+discomforts of motion, though our "ups and downs" were many. Along this
+part of the coast (from Pernambuco to the Amazon), if one day should be
+fine, three stormy ones would follow, but the gale was always fair,
+carrying us forward at a goodly rate.
+
+Along about half way from Cape St. Roque to the Amazon, the wind which
+had been blowing hard for two days, from E.S.E., and raising lively
+waves all about, increased to a gale that knocked up seas, washing over
+the little craft more than ever. The thing was becoming monotonous and
+tiresome; for a change, therefore, I ran in toward the land, so as to
+avoid the ugly cross sea farther out in the current. This course was a
+mistaken one; we had not sailed far on it when a sudden rise of the
+canoe, followed by an unusually long run down on the slope of a roller,
+told us of a danger that we hardly dared to think of, then a mighty
+comber broke, but, as Providence willed, broke short of the canoe, which
+under shortened sail was then scudding very fast.
+
+We were on a shoal, and the sea was breaking from the bottom! The second
+great roller came on, towering up, up, up, until nothing longer could
+support the mountain of water, and it seemed only to pause before its
+fall to take aim and surely gather us up in its sweeping fury.
+
+I put the helm a-lee; there was nothing else to do but this, and say
+prayers. The helm hard down, brought the canoe round, bows to the
+danger, while in breathless anxiety we prepared to meet the result as
+best we could. Before we could say "Save us, or we perish," the sea
+broke over with terrific force and passed on, leaving us trembling in
+His hand, more palpably helpless than ever before. Other great waves
+came madly on, leaping toward destruction; how they bellowed over the
+shoal! I could smell the slimy bottom of the sea, when they broke! I
+could taste the salty sand!
+
+In this perilous situation, buried sometimes in the foaming breakers,
+and at times tossed like a reed on the crest of the waves, we struggled
+with might and main at the helm and the sheets, easing her up or forcing
+her ahead with care, gaining little by little toward deep water, till at
+last she came out of the danger, shook her feathers like a sea-bird, and
+rode on waves less perilous. Then we had time and courage to look back,
+but not till then.
+
+And what a sight we beheld! The horizon was illumined with
+phosphorescent light from the breakers just passed through. The
+rainstorm which had obscured the coast was so cleared away now that we
+could see the whole field of danger behind us. One spot in particular,
+the place where the breakers dashed over a rock which appeared awash, in
+the glare flashed up a shaft of light that reached to the heavens.
+
+This was the greatest danger we had yet encountered. The elasticity of
+our canoe, not its bulk, saved it from destruction. Her light, springy
+timbers and buoyant bamboo guards brought her upright again and again
+through the fierce breakers. We were astonished at the feats of wonder
+of our brave little craft.
+
+Fatigued and worn with anxiety, when clear of the shoal we hauled to
+under close reefs, heading off shore, and all hands lay down to rest
+till daylight. Then, squaring away again, we set what sail the canoe
+could carry, scudding before it, for the wind was still in our favour,
+though blowing very hard. Nevertheless the weather seemed fine and
+pleasant at this stage of our own pleased feelings. Any weather that
+one's craft can live in, after escaping a lee shore, is pleasant
+weather--though some may be pleasanter than other.
+
+What we most wished for, after this thrilling experience, was sea room,
+fair wind, and plenty of it. That these without stint would suit us
+best, was agreed on all hands. Accordingly then I shaped the course
+seaward, clearing well all the dangers of the land.
+
+The fierce tropical storm of the last few days turned gradually into
+mild trade-winds, and our cedar canoe skipped nimbly once more over
+tranquil seas. Our own agitation, too, had gone down and we sailed on
+unruffled by care. Gentle winds carried us on over kindly waves, and we
+were fain to count fair days ahead, leaving all thoughts of stormy ones
+behind. In this hopeful mood we sailed for many days, our spirits never
+lowering, but often rising higher out of the miserable condition which
+we had fallen into through misfortunes on the foreign shore. When a star
+came out, it came as a friend, and one that had been seen by friends of
+old. When all the stars shone out, the hour at sea was cheerful, bright,
+and joyous. Welby saw, or had in the mind's-eye, a day like many that we
+experienced in the soft, clear "trades" on this voyage, when writing the
+pretty lines:--
+
+
+     The twilight hours like birds flew by,
+       As lightly and as free,
+     Ten thousand stars were in the sky,
+       Ten thousand on the sea.
+
+     For every rippling, dancing wave,
+       That leaped upon the air,
+     Had caught a star in its embrace,
+       And held it trembling there.
+
+
+"The days pass, and our ship flies fast upon her way."
+
+For several days while sailing near the line we saw the constellations
+of both hemispheres, but heading north, we left those of the south at
+last, with the Southern Cross--most beautiful in all the heavens--to
+watch over a friend.
+
+Leaving these familiar southern stars and sailing toward constellations
+in the north, we hoist all sail to the cheery breeze which carries us
+on.
+
+In this pleasant state of sailing with our friends all about us, we
+stood on and on, never doubting once our pilot or our ship.
+
+A phantom of the stately _Aquidneck_ appeared one night, sweeping by
+with crowning skysails set, that fairly brushed the stars. No apparition
+could have affected us more than the sight of this floating beauty, so
+like the _Aquidneck_, gliding swiftly and quietly by, from her mission
+to some foreign land--she, too, was homeward bound!
+
+This incident of the _Aquidneck's_ ghost, as it appeared to us, passing
+at midnight on the sea, left a pang of lonesomeness for a while.
+
+But a carrier dove came next day, and perched upon the mast, as if to
+tell that we had yet a friend! Welcome harbinger of good! you bring us
+thoughts of angels.
+
+The lovely visitor remained with us two days, off and on, but left for
+good on the third, when we reached away from Avis Island, to which,
+maybe, it was bound. Coming as it did from the east, and flying west
+toward the island when it left, bore out the idea of the lay of sweet
+singer Kingsley's "Last Buccaneer."
+
+
+     If I might but be a sea dove, I'd fly across the main
+     To the pleasant Isle of Avis, to look at it once again.
+
+
+The old Buccaneer, it may have been, but we regarded it as the little
+bird, which most likely it was, that sits up aloft to look out for poor
+"Jack."[6]
+
+A moth, blown to our boat on the ocean, found shelter and a welcome
+there. The dove we secretly worshipped.
+
+With utmost confidence in our little craft, inspired by many thrilling
+events, we now carried sail, blow high, blow low, till at times she
+reeled along with a bone in her mouth quite to the mind of her mariners.
+Thinking one day that she might carry more sail on the mast already
+bending hopefully forward, and acting upon the liberal thought of sail,
+we made a wide mistake, for the mainmast went by the board, under the
+extra press and the foremast tripped over the bows. Then spars, booms,
+and sails swung alongside like the broken wings of a bird, but were
+grappled, however, and brought aboard without much loss of time. The
+broken mast was then secured and strengthened by "fishes" or splints
+after the manner in which doctors fish a broken limb.
+
+Both of the masts were very soon refitted and again made to carry sail,
+all they could stand; and we were again bowling along as before. We made
+that day a hundred and seventy-five miles, one of our best days' work.
+
+I protest here that my wife should not have cried "More sail! more
+sail!" when as it has been seen the canoe had on all the sail that she
+could carry. Nothing further happened to change the usual daily events
+until we reached Barbadoes. Flying-fish on the wing striking our sails,
+at night, often fell on deck, affording us many a toothsome fry. This
+happened daily, while sailing throughout the trade-wind regions. To be
+hit by one of these fish on the wing, which sometimes occurs, is no
+light matter, especially if the blow be on the face, as it may cause a
+bad bruise or even a black eye. The head of the flying-fish being rather
+hard makes it in fact a night slugger to be dreaded. They never come
+aboard in the daylight. The swift darting bill-fish, too, is a danger to
+be avoided in the tropics at night. They are met with mostly in the
+Pacific Ocean; therefore South Sea Islanders are loath to voyage during
+the "bill-fish season."
+
+As to the flight of these fishes, I would estimate that of the
+flying-fish as not exceeding fifteen feet in height, or five hundred
+yards of distance, often not half so much.
+
+Bill-fish, darting like an arrow from a bow, have, fortunately for
+sailors, not the power or do not rise much above the level of the waves,
+and cannot dart further, say, than two hundred and fifty feet,
+according to the day for jumping. Of the many swift fish in the sea, the
+dolphin, perhaps, is the most marvellous. Its oft-told beauty, too, is
+indeed remarkable. A few of these fleet racers were captured, on the
+voyage, but were found tough and rank; notwithstanding some eulogy on
+them by other epicures, we threw the mess away. Those hooked by my crew
+were perhaps the tyrrhena pirates "turned into dolphins" in the days of
+yore.
+
+On the 19th day from Pernambuco, early in the morning, we made Barbadoes
+away in the West. First, the blue, fertile hills, then green fields came
+into view, studded with many white buildings between sentries of giant
+wind-mills as old nearly as the hills. Barbadoes is the most pleasant
+island in the Antilles; to sail round its green fringe of coral sea is
+simply charming. We stood in to the coast, well to windward, sailing
+close in with the breakers so as to take in a view of the whole
+delightful panorama as we sailed along. By noon we rounded the south
+point of the island and shot into Carlysle Bay, completing the run from
+Pernambuco exactly in nineteen days. This was considerably more than an
+hundred miles a day. The true distance being augmented by the circuitous
+route we adopted made it 2,150 miles.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[5] We had the pleasure of meeting this gentleman again on the
+voyage at Barbadoes, again at New London, and finally with delight we
+heard him lecture on his travels, at Newport, and saw there produced on
+the wall the very picture of the _Liberdade_ taken by the doctor on the
+great ocean.
+
+[6]
+
+     There's a sweet little cherub that sits up aloft,
+     To look out for a berth for poor Jack.--_Dibdin's Poems._
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XV
+
+     At Barbadoes--Mayaguez--Crossing the Bahama Banks--The Gulf
+     Stream--Arrival on the coast of South Carolina.
+
+
+Many old friends and acquaintances came down to see us upon our arrival
+at Barbadoes, all curious to inspect the strange craft. While there our
+old friend, the _Palmer_, that we left at Bahia, came in to refit,
+having broken a mast "trying to beat us," so Garfield would have it. For
+all that we had beaten her by four days. Who then shall say that we
+anchored nights or spent much time hugging the shore? The _Condor_ was
+also at Barbadoes in charge of an old friend, accompanied by a pleasant
+helpmeet and companion who had shared the perils of shipwreck with her
+husband the year before in a hurricane among the islands.
+
+Meeting so many of this class of old friends of vast and varied
+experiences gave contentment to our visit, and we concluded to remain
+over at this port till the hurricane season should pass. Our old friend,
+the _Finance_, too, came in, remaining but a few hours. However, she
+hurried away with her mails, homeward bound.
+
+The pleasant days at Barbadoes with its enchantment flew lightly by; and
+on the 7th of October we sailed, giving the hurricane season the benefit
+of eight days. The season is considered over on the 15th of that month.
+
+Passing thence through the Antilles into the Caribbean Sea, a new period
+of our voyage was begun. Fair breezes filled the sails of the
+_Liberdade_ as we glided along over tranquil seas, scanning eagerly the
+islands as they came into view, dwelling on each, in our thoughts, as
+hallowed ground of the illustrious discoverers--the same now as seen by
+them! The birds, too, of "rare plumage," were there, flying from island
+to island, the same as seen by the discoverers; and the sea with fishes
+teemed, of every gorgeous hue, lending enchantment to the picture, not
+less beautiful than the splendour on the land and in the air to thrill
+the voyager now, the same as then; we ourselves had only to look to see
+them.
+
+Whether it was birds with fins, or fishes with wings, or neither of
+these that the old voyagers saw, they discovered yet enough to make them
+wonder and rejoice.
+
+"Mountains of sugar, and rivers of rum and flying-fish, was what I saw,
+mother," said the son on his return from a voyage to these islands.
+"John," said the enraptured mother, "you must be mistaken about the
+fish; now don't lie to me, John. Mountains of sugar, no doubt you saw,
+and even rivers of rum, my boy, but _flying-fish_ could never be."
+
+And yet the _fish_ were there.
+
+Among the islands of great interest which came in view, stretching along
+the Caribbean Sea, was that of Santa Cruz, the island famous for its
+brave, resolute women of days gone by, who, while their husbands were
+away, successfully defended home and happiness against Christian
+invaders, and for that reason were called fierce savages. I would fain
+have brought away some of the earth of the island in memory of those
+brave women. Small as our ship was, we could have afforded room in it
+for a memento thus consecrated; but the trades hauling somewhat to the
+northward so headed us off that we had to forgo the pleasure of landing
+on its shores.
+
+Pushing forward thence, we reached Porto Rico, the nearest land in our
+course from the Island of Brave Women, standing well in with the
+southeast capes. Sailing thence along the whole extent of the south
+coast, in waters as smooth as any mill pond, and past island scenery
+worth the perils of ten voyages to see, we landed, on the 12th of
+October, at Mayaguez in the west of the island, and there shook the
+kinks out of our bones by pleasant walks in tropic shades.
+
+Time, five days from Barbadoes; distance 570 miles.
+
+This was to be our last run among the trees in the West Indies, and we
+made the most of it. "Such a port for mariners I'll never see again!"
+The port officials, kind and polite, extended all becoming courtesies to
+the quaint "_barco piquina_."
+
+The American Consul, Mr. Christie, Danish Consul, Mr. Falby, and the
+good French Consul, vied in making our visit a pleasant one.
+
+Photographers at Mayaguez desiring a picture of the canoe with the crew
+on deck at a time when we felt inclined to rest in the shade on shore,
+put a negro on board to take the place of captain. The photographs taken
+then found their way to Paris and Madrid journals where, along with some
+flattering accounts, they were published, upon which it was remarked
+that the captain was a fine-looking fellow, but "awfully tanned!" The
+moke was rigged all ataunto for the occasion, and made a picture
+indicative of great physical strength, one not to be ashamed of, but he
+would have looked more like me, I must say, if they had turned him back
+to.
+
+We enjoyed long carriage drives over rich estates at Mayaguez. We saw
+with pain, however, that the atmosphere of the soldier hung over all,
+pervading the whole air like a pestilence.
+
+Musketed and sabred and uniformed in their bed-ticking suits; hated by
+the residents and despised by themselves, they doggedly marched,
+counter-marched and wheeled, knowing that they are loathsome in the
+island, and that their days in the New World are numbered. The sons of
+the colonies are too civil and Christianlike to be ruled always by sword
+and gun.
+
+On the 15th of October, after three days' rest, we took in, as usual
+before sailing from ports, sufficient fresh supplies to carry us to the
+port steered for next, then set sail from pleasant Mayaguez, and bore
+away for the old Bahama Channel, passing east of Hayti, thence along the
+north coast to the west extremity of the island, from which we took
+departure for the head-lands of Cuba, and followed that coast as far as
+Cardinas, where we took a final departure from the islands, regretting
+that we could not sail around them all.
+
+The region on the north side of Cuba is often visited by gales of great
+violence, making this the lee shore; a weather eye was therefore kept
+lifting, especially in the direction of their source, which is from
+north to nor'west. However, storms prevailed from other quarters, mostly
+from the east, bringing heavy squalls of wind, rain and thunder every
+afternoon, such as once heard will never be forgotten. Peal on peal of
+nature's artillery for a few hours, accompanied by vivid lightning, was
+on the cards for each day, then all would be serene again.
+
+The nights following these severe storms were always bright and
+pleasant, and the heavens would be studded with constellations of
+familiar, guiding stars.
+
+My crew had now no wish to bear up for port short of one on our own
+coast, but, impatient to see the North Star appear higher in the
+heavens, strung every nerve and trimmed every sail to hasten on.
+
+Nassau, the place to which letters had been directed to us, we forbore
+to visit. This departure from a programme which was made at the
+beginning was the only change that we made in the "charter party"
+throughout the voyage. There was no haphazard sailing on this voyage.
+Daily observations for determining latitude and longitude were
+invariably made unless the sun was obscured. The result of these
+astronomical observations were more reliable than one might suppose,
+from their being taken on a tittlish canoe. After a few days'
+practising, a very fair off-hand contact could be made, when the canoe
+rose on the crest of a wave, where manifestly would be found the best
+result. The observer's station was simply on the top of the cabin, where
+astride, like riding horseback, Victor and I took the "sights," and
+indeed became expert "snap observers" before the voyage ended.
+
+One night in the Bahama Channel, while booming along toward the Banks to
+the nor'west of us before stiff trades, I was called in the first watch
+by Victor, to come up quickly, for signs of the dread "norther" were in
+the sky. Our trusty barometer had been low, but was now on the cheerful
+side of change. This phenomenon disturbed me somewhat, till the
+discovery was made, as we came nearer, that it was but the reflection of
+the white banks on the sky that we saw, and no cause at all for alarm.
+
+Soon after this phenomenon the faint glimmer of Lobos Light was descried
+flickering on the horizon, two points on the weather bow. I changed the
+course three points to windward, having determined to touch at the small
+Cay where the lighthouse stands; one point being allowed for leeway,
+which I found was not too much.
+
+Three hours later we fetched in under the lee of the reef, or Cay, as it
+is commonly called, and came to in one and a half fathoms of water in
+good shelter.
+
+We beheld then overhead in wonderful beauty what had awed us from the
+distance in the early night--a chart of the illuminating banks marked
+visibly on the heavens.
+
+We furled sails and, setting a light in the rigging, turned in; for it
+lacked three hours yet of daylight. And what an interesting experience
+ours had been in the one short night! By the break of day my crew were
+again astir, preparing to land and fill water at a good landing which we
+now perceived farther around the point to leeward, where the surf was
+moderate.
+
+On the Cay is stored some hundred thousand gallons of rain water in
+cisterns at the base of the iron tower which carries the light; one that
+we saw from the canoe at a distance of fourteen miles.
+
+The keeper of the light, a hardy native of Nassau, when he discovered
+the new arrival at his "island," hoisted the British Board of Trade flag
+on a pole in the centre of this, his little world, then he came forward
+to speak us, thinking at first, he said, that we were shipwrecked
+sailors, which indeed we were, but not in distress, as he had supposed
+when hoisting the flag, which signified assistance for distressed
+seamen. On learning our story, however, he regarded us with grave
+suspicions, and refused water to Victor, who had already landed with
+buckets, telling him that the captain would have to bring his papers
+ashore and report. The mate's report would not be taken. Thus in a
+moment was transformed the friend in need to _governor of an island_.
+This amused me greatly, and I sent back word to my veritable Sancho
+Panza that in my many voyages to islands my mate had attended to the
+customs reports; at which his Excellency chafed considerably, giving the
+gunnels of his trousers a fitful tug up now and then as he paced the
+beach, waiting my compliance with the rules of the island. The governor,
+I perceived, was suspicious of smugglers and wreckers, apparently
+understanding their ways, if, indeed, even he were not a reformed
+pirate himself.
+
+However, to humour the punctiliousness of his Excellency, now that he
+was governor of an island, I placed my papers in my hat, and, leaping
+into the surf, waded ashore, where I was received as by a monarch.
+
+The document I presented was the original _Passe Especial_, the one with
+the big seal on it, written in Portuguese; had it been in Choctaw the
+governor would have read it with the same facility that he did this,
+which he stared at knowingly and said, "all right, take all the water
+you want; it is free."
+
+I lodged a careful report of the voyage with the governor and explained
+to his Excellency the whereabouts of the "Island of Rio," as his grace
+persistently called Rio de Janeiro, whence dated my papers.
+
+Conversing on the subject of islands, which was all the world to him,
+the governor viewed with suspicion the absence of a word in my
+documents, referring even to an islet; this, in his mind, was a
+reprehensible omission; for surely New York, to which the papers
+referred, was built on an island. Upon this I offered to swear to the
+truth of my clearance, "as far as known to me," after the manner of
+cheap custom-house swearing with which shipmasters, in some parts of the
+world, are made familiar. "Not on the island!" quickly exclaimed the
+governor, "'for thou shalt not disglorify God's name,' is written in the
+Bible."
+
+I assured the governor of my appreciation of his pious sentiment of not
+over-swearing,--a laudable plan that even the Chinese adopt as a policy,
+and one that I would speak of on my return home, to the end that we all
+emulate the laws of the island; whereupon the governor, greatly pleased,
+urged me to take some more water, minding me again that it was free.
+
+In a very few minutes I got all the water I wished for; also some aurora
+shells from the governor's lady, who had arisen with the sun to grace
+the day and of all things most appropriate held in her generous lap
+beautiful aurora shells for which--to spoil the poem--I bartered
+cocoa-nuts and rusty gnarly yams.
+
+The lady was on a visit only to her lord and master, the monarch of all
+he surveyed. Beside this was their three children also on a visit, from
+Nassau, and two assistant keepers of the light which made up the total
+of this little world in the ocean.
+
+It was the smallest kingdom I had ever visited, peopled by happy human
+beings and the most isolated by far.
+
+The few blades of grass which had struggled into existence, not enough
+to support a goat, was all there was to look at on the island except the
+lighthouse, and the sand and themselves.
+
+Some small buildings and a flagstaff had once adorned the place, but
+together with a coop of chickens, the only stock of the
+islanders--except a dog--had been swept away by a hurricane which had
+passed over the island a short time before. The water for which we had
+called being now in the canoe, and my people on board waiting for me, I
+bade the worthy governor good-bye, and, saluting his charming island
+queen in a seaman-like manner, hastened back to my own little world; and
+bore away once more for the north. Sailing thence over the Great Bahama
+Banks, in a crystal sea, we observed on the white marl bottom many
+curious living things, among them the conch in its house of exquisite
+tints and polished surface, the star-fish with radiated dome of curious
+construction, and many more denizens of the place, the names of which I
+could not tell, resting on the soft white bed under the sea.
+
+"They who go down to the sea in ships, they see the wonders of the
+Lord," I am reminded by a friend who writes me, on receipt of some of
+these curious things which I secured on the voyage, adding: "For all
+these curious and beautiful things are His handiwork. Who can look at
+such things without the heart being lifted up in adoration?"
+
+For words like these what sailor is there who would not search the caves
+of the ocean? Words too, from a lady.
+
+Two days of brisk sailing over the white Bahama Banks brought us to
+Bimini. Thence a mere push would send us to the coast of our own native
+America. The wind in the meantime hauling from regular nor'east trade to
+the sou'west, as we came up to Bimini, promising a smooth passage
+across, we launched out at once on the great Gulf Stream, and were swept
+along by its restless motion, making on the first day, before the wind
+and current, two hundred and twenty miles. This was great getting along
+for a small canoe. Going at the same high rate of speed on the second
+night in the stream, the canoe struck a spar and went over it with a
+bound. Her keel was shattered by the shock, but finally shaking the
+crippled timber clear of herself she came on quite well without it. No
+other damage was done to our craft, although at times her very ribs were
+threatened before clearing this lively ocean river. In the middle of the
+current, where the seas were yet mountainous but regular, we went along
+with a wide, swinging motion and fared well enough; but on nearing the
+edge of the stream a confused sea was met with, standing all on end, in
+every which way, beyond a sailor's comprehension. The motion of the
+_Liberdade_ was then far from poetical or pleasant. The wind, in the
+meantime, had chopped round to the nor'east, dead ahead; being thus
+against the current, a higher and more confused sea than ever was heaped
+up, giving us some uneasiness. We had, indeed, several unwelcome
+visitors come tumbling aboard of our craft, one of which furiously
+crashing down on her made all of her timbers bend and creak. However, I
+could partially remedy this danger by changing the course.
+
+"Seas like that can't break this boat," said our young boatswain; "she's
+built strong." It was well to find among the crew this feeling of
+assurance in the gallant little vessel. I, too, was confident in her
+seaworthiness. Nevertheless, I shortened sail and brought her to the
+wind, watching the lulls and easing her over the combers, as well as I
+could. But wrathful Neptune was not to let us so easily off, for the
+next moment a sea swept clean over the helmsman, wetting him through to
+the skin and, most unkind cut of all, it put out our fire, and capsized
+the hash and stove into the bottom of the canoe. This left us with but a
+_damper_ for breakfast! Matters mended, however, as the day advanced,
+and for supper we had a grand and glorious feast. Early in the afternoon
+we made the land and got into smooth water. This of itself was a feast,
+to our minds.
+
+The land we now saw lying before us was hills of America, which we had
+sailed many thousands of miles to see. Drawing in with the coast, we
+made out, first the broad, rich forests, then open fields and villages,
+with many signs of comfort on every hand. We found it was the land about
+Bull's Bay on the coast of South Carolina, and night coming on, we could
+plainly see Cape Roman Light to the north of us. The wind falling light
+as we drew in with the coast, and finding a current against us, we
+anchored, about two miles from the shore, in four fathoms of water. It
+was now 8 p.m., October 28, 1888, thirteen days from Mayaguez,
+twenty-one days from Barbadoes, etc.
+
+The following was the actual time at sea and distances in nautical miles
+from point to point on the courses steered, approximately:
+
+
+                           _Days._   _ Distance._
+
+
+From Paranagua to Santos         1        150
+ "   Santos to Rio de Janeiro
+         (towed by _Finance_)    3/4        200
+ "   Rio to Cape Frio            2         70
+ "   Cape Frio to Carvellas      4        370
+ "   Carvellas to Saint Paulo    3        270
+ "   Saint Paulo to Bahia        1/2         40
+ "   Bahia to Pernambuco         5        390
+ "   Pernambuco to Barbadoes    19      2,150
+ "   Barbadoes to Mayaguez       5        570
+ "   Mayaguez to Cape Roman     13      1,300
+                                ---     -----
+                                531/4     5,510
+
+
+Computing all the distances of the ins and outs that we made would
+considerably augment the sum. To say, therefore, that the _Liberdade_
+averaged a hundred and three miles a day for fifty-three days would be
+considerably inside the truth.
+
+This was the voyage made in the boat which cost less than a hundred
+dollars outside of our own labour of building. Journals the world over
+have spoken not unkindly of the feat; encomiums in seven languages
+reached us through the newspapers while we lay moored in Washington.
+Should the same good fortune that followed the _Liberdade_ attend this
+little literary craft, when finished, it would go safe into many lands.
+Without looking, however, to this mark of good fortune, the journal of
+the voyage has been as carefully constructed as was the _Liberdade_, and
+I trust, as conscientiously, by a hand, alas! that has grasped the
+sextant more often than the plane or pen, and for the love of doing.
+This apology might have been more appropriately made in the beginning of
+the journal, maybe, but it comes to me now, and like many other things
+done, right or wrong, but done on the impulse of the moment, I put it
+down.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVI
+
+     Ocean Currents--Visit to South Santee--At the Typee
+     River--Quarantined--South Port and Wilmington, N.C.--Inland sailing
+     to Beaufort, Norfolk and Washington, D.C.--Voyage ended.
+
+
+No one will be more surprised at the complete success of the voyage and
+the speedy progress made than were we ourselves who made it.
+
+A factor of the voyage, one that helped us forward greatly, and which is
+worthy of special mention, was the ocean current spoken of as we came
+along in its friendly sway.
+
+Many are the theories among fresh-water philosophists respecting these
+currents, but in practical sailing, where the subject is met with in its
+tangible form, one cause only is recognized; namely, the action of the
+wind on the surface of the water, pushing the waves along. Out on the
+broad ocean the effect at first is hardly perceptible, but the constant
+trades, sending countless millions of waves in one direction, cause at
+last a mighty moving power, which the mariner meets sometimes as an
+enemy to retard and delay, sometimes as a friend, as in our case, to
+help him on his way. These are views from a practical experience with no
+theory to prove.
+
+By daylight on the twenty-ninth, we weighed anchor and set sail again
+for the north. The wind and current were still adverse, but we kept near
+the land, making short boards off and on through the day where the
+current had least effect. And when night came on again we closed in once
+more with Cape Roman light. Next day we worked up under the lee of the
+Roman shoals and made harbour in South Santee, a small river to the
+north of Cape Roman, within range of the light, there to rest until the
+wind should change, it being still ahead.
+
+Next morning, since the wind had not changed, we weighed anchor and
+stood farther into the river looking for inhabitants, that we might
+listen to voices other than our own. Our search was soon rewarded, for,
+coming around a point of woodland, a farmhouse stood before us on the
+river side. We came alongside the bank and jumped ashore, but hardly had
+we landed when, as out of the earth, a thousand dogs, so it seemed,
+sprung up threatening to devour us all. However, a comely woman came out
+of the house and it was explained to the satisfaction of all, especially
+to a persistent cur, by a vigorous whack on the head with a cudgel, that
+our visit was a friendly one; then all was again peaceful and quiet. The
+good man was in the field close by, but soon came home accompanied by
+his two stalwart sons each "toting" a sack of corn. We found the
+Andersons--this was the family name--isolated in every sense of the
+word, and as primitive as heart could wish. The charming simplicity of
+these good people captivated my crew. We met others along the coast
+innocent of greed, but of all unselfish men, Anderson the elder was
+surely the prince.
+
+Purchasing some truck from this good man, we found that change could not
+be made for the dollar which I tendered in payment. But I protested that
+I was more than content to let the few odd cents go, having received
+more garden stuff than I had ever seen offered for a dollar in any part
+of the world. And indeed I was satisfied. The farmer, however, nothing
+content, offered me a coon skin or two, but these I didn't want, and
+there being no other small change about the farm, the matter was
+dropped, I thought, for good, and I had quite forgotten it, when later
+in the evening I was electrified by his offering to carry a letter for
+us which we wished posted, some seven miles away, and call it "square,"
+against the twenty cents of the morning's transaction. The letter went,
+and in due course of time we got an answer.
+
+I do not say that we stuck strictly to the twenty-cent transaction, but
+I fear that not enough was paid to fair-dealing Anderson. However, all
+were at last satisfied and warming into conversation, a log fire was
+improvised and social chat went round.
+
+These good people could hardly understand how it was, as I explained,
+that the Brazilians had freed the slaves and had no war, Mr. Anderson
+often exclaiming, "Well, well, I d'clar. Freed the niggers, and had no
+wah. Mister," said he, turning to me after a long pause, "mister, d'ye
+know the South were foolish? They had a wah, and they had to free the
+niggers, too."
+
+"Oh, yes, mister, I was thar! Over thar beyond them oaks was my house."
+
+"Yes, mister, I fought, too, and fought hard, but it warn't no use."
+
+Like many a hard fighter, Anderson, too, was a pious man, living in a
+state of resignation to be envied. His years of experience on the new
+island farm had been hard and trying in the extreme. My own misfortunes
+passed into shade as the harder luck of the Andersons came before my
+mind, and the resolution which I had made to buy a farm was now shaken
+and finally dissolved into doubts of the wisdom of such a course. On
+this farm they had first "started in to raise pork," but found that it
+"didn't pay, for the pigs got wild and had to be gathered with the
+dogs," and by the time they were "gathered and then toted, salt would
+hardly cure them, and they most generally tainted." The enterprise was
+therefore abandoned, for that of tilling the soil, and a crop was put
+in, but "the few pigs which the dogs had not gathered came in at night
+and rooted out all the taters." It then appeared that a fence should be
+built. "Accordingly," said he, "the boys and I made one which kept out
+the stock, but, sir, the rats could get in! They took every tater out of
+the ground! From all that I put in, and my principal work was thar, I
+didn't see a sprout." How it happened that the rats had left the crop
+the year before for their relations--the pigs--was what seemed most to
+bother the farmer's mind. Nevertheless, "there was corn in Egypt yet";
+and at the family circle about the board that night a smile of hope
+played on the good farmer's face, as in deep sincerity he asked that for
+what they had they might be made truly thankful. We learned a lesson of
+patience from this family, and were glad that the wind had carried us to
+their shore.
+
+Said the farmer, "And you came all the way from Brazil in that boat!
+Wife, she won't go to Georgetown in the batto that I built because it
+rares too much. And they freed the niggers and had no wah! Well, well, I
+d'clar!"
+
+Better folks we may never see than the farmers of South Santee. Bidding
+them good-bye next morning at early dawn we sailed before a light land
+wind which, however, soon petered out.
+
+The S.S. _Planter_ then coming along took us in tow for Georgetown,
+where she was bound. We had not the pleasure, however, of visiting the
+beloved old city; for having some half dozen cocoa-nuts on board, the
+remainder of small stores of the voyage, a vigilant officer stopped us
+at the quarantine ground. Fruit not being admitted into South Carolina
+until after the first of November, and although it was now late in the
+afternoon of the first, we had to ride quarantine that night, with a
+promise, however, of _pratique_ next morning. But there was no steamer
+going up the river the next day. The _Planter_ coming down though
+supplied us with some small provisions, such as were not procurable at
+the Santee farm. Then putting to sea we beat along slowly against wind
+and current.
+
+We began now to experience, as might be expected, autumn gales of
+considerable violence, the heaviest of which overtaking us at Frying-pan
+Shoal, drove us back to leeward of Cape Fear for shelter. South Port and
+Wilmington being then so near we determined to visit both places. Two
+weeks at these ports refreshed the crew and made all hands willing for
+sea again.
+
+Sailing thence through Corn-cake Inlet we cut off Cape Fear and the
+Frying-pan Shoals, being of mind to make for the inlets along the
+Carolina coast and to get into the inland waters as soon as practicable.
+
+It was our good fortune to fall in with an old and able pilot at
+Corn-cake Inlet, one Capt. Bloodgood, who led the way through the
+channel in his schooner, the _Packet_, a Carolina pitch and cotton
+droger of forty tons register, which was manned solely by the captain
+and his two sons, one twelve and the other ten years old. It was in the
+crew that I became most interested, and not the schooner. Bloodgood gave
+the order when the tide served for us to put to sea. "Come, children,"
+said he, "let's try it." Then we all tried it together, the _Packet_
+leading the way. The shaky west wind, that filled our sails as we
+skimmed along the beach with the breakers close aboard, carried us but a
+few leagues when it flew suddenly round to nor'east and began to pipe.
+
+The gale increasing rapidly inclined me to bear up for New River Inlet,
+then close under our lee, with a treacherous bar lying in front, which
+to cross safely would require great care.
+
+But the gale was threatening, and the harbour inside, we could see, was
+smooth; then, too, cried my people: "Any port in a storm." I decided
+prompt; put the helm up and squared away. Flying thence, before it, the
+tempest-tossed canoe came sweeping in from sea over the rollers in a
+delightfully thrilling way. One breaker only coming over us, and even
+that did no harm more than to give us all the climax soaking of the
+voyage. This was the last sea that broke over the canoe on the memorable
+voyage.
+
+The harbour inside the bar of New River was good. Adding much to our
+comfort too was fish and game in abundance.
+
+The _Packet_, which had parted from us, made her destined port some
+three leagues farther on. The last we saw of the children, they were at
+the main sheets hauling aft, and their father was at the helm, and all
+were flying through the mist like fearless sailors.
+
+After meeting Carolina seamen, to say nothing of the few still in
+existence further north, I challenge the story of Greek supremacy.
+
+The little town of South Port was made up almost entirely of pilots
+possessing, I am sure, every quality of the sailor and the gentleman.
+
+Moored snug in the inlet, it was pleasant to listen to the roar of the
+breakers on the bar, but not so cheerful was the thought of facing the
+high waves seaward. Therefore the plan suggested itself of sufficiently
+deepening a ditch that led through the marshes from New River to Bogue
+Sound, to let us through; thence we could sail inland the rest of the
+voyage without obstruction or hindrance of any kind. To this end we set
+about contrivances to heave the canoe over the shoals, and borrowed a
+shovel from a friendly schooner captain to deepen the ditch which we
+thought would be necessary to do in order to ford her along that way.
+However, the prevailing nor'east gales had so raised the water in the
+west end of the sound as to fill all the creeks and ditches to
+overflowing. I hesitated then no longer, but heading for the ditch
+through the marshes on a high tide, before a brave west wind took the
+chances of getting through by hook or by crook or by shovel and spade if
+required.
+
+The "Coast Pilot," in speaking of this place, says there is never more
+than a foot of water there, and even that much is rarely found. The
+_Liberdade_ essayed the ditch, drawing two feet and four inches, thus
+showing the further good fortune or luck which followed perseverance, as
+it usually does, though sometimes, maybe, it is bad luck! Perhaps I am
+not lucid on this, which at best must remain a disputed point.
+
+I was getting lost in the maze of sloughs and creeks, which as soon as I
+entered seemed to lead in every direction but the right one. Hailing a
+hunter near by, however, I was soon put straight and reassured of
+success. The most astonished man, though, in North Carolina, was this
+same hunter when asked if he knew the ditch that led through where I
+wished to go.
+
+"Why, stranger," said he, "my gran'ther digged that ditch."
+
+I jumped, I leaped! at thought of what a pilot this man would be.
+
+"Well, stranger," said he, in reply to my query, "stranger, if any man
+kin take y' thro' that ditch, why, I kin"; adding doubtfully, however,
+"I have not hearn tell befo' of a vessel from Brazil sailing through
+these parts; but then you mout get through, and again ye moutent. Well,
+it's jist here; you mout and you moutent."
+
+A bargain was quickly made, and my pilot came aboard, armed with a long
+gun, which as we sailed along proved a terror to ducks. The entrance to
+the ditch, then close by, was made with a flowing sheet, and I soon
+found that my pilot knew his business. Rush-swamps and corn-fields we
+left to port and to starboard, and were at times out of sight among
+brakes that brushed crackling along the sides of the canoe, as she swept
+briskly through the narrows, passing them all, with many a close hug,
+though, on all sides. At a point well on in the crooked channel my pilot
+threw up his hat, and shouted, with all his might:
+
+"Yer trouble is over! Swan to gosh if it ain't! And ye come all the way
+from Brazil, and come through gran'ther's ditch! Well, I d'clar!"
+
+From this I concluded that we had cleared all the doubtful places, and
+so it turned out. Before sundown my pilot was looking for the change of
+a five-dollar-piece; and we of the _Liberdade_ sat before a pot-pie, at
+twilight, the like of which on the whole voyage had not been tasted,
+from sea fowl laid about by our pilot while sailing through the meadows
+and marshes. And the pilot himself, returning while the pot-pie was yet
+steaming hot, declared it "ahead of coon."
+
+A pleasant sail was this through the ditch that gran'ther dug. At the
+camp fire that night, where we hauled up by a fishing station, thirty
+stalwart men talked over the adventures of their lives. My pilot, the
+best speaker, kept the camp in roars. As for myself, always fond of
+mirth, I got up from the fire sore from laughing. Their curious
+adventures with coons and 'gators recounted had been considerable.
+
+Many startling stories were told. But frequently reverting to the voyage
+of the _Liberdade_, they declared with one voice that "it was the
+greatest thing since the wah." I took this as a kind of complimentary
+hospitality. "When she struck on a sand reef," said the pilot, "why, the
+captain he jumped right overboard and the son he jumped right over, too,
+to tote her over, and the captain's wife she holp."
+
+By daylight next morning we sailed from this camp pleasant, and on the
+following day, November 28, at noon, arrived at Beaufort.
+
+Mayor Bell of that city and many of his townfolk met us at the wharf,
+and gave me as well as my sea-tossed crew a welcome to their shores,
+such as to make us feel that the country was partly ours.
+
+"Welcome, welcome home," said the good mayor; "we have read of your
+adventures, and watched your progress as reported from time to time,
+with deep interest and sympathy."
+
+So we began to learn now that prayers on shore had gone up for the
+little canoe at sea. This was indeed America and home, for which we had
+longed while thousands of miles across the ocean.
+
+From Beaufort to Norfolk and thence to Washington was pleasant inland
+sailing, with prevailing fair winds and smooth sea. Christmas was spent
+on the Chesapeake--a fine, enjoyable day it was! with not a white-cap
+ripple on the bay. Ducks swimming ahead of the canoe as she moved
+quietly along were loath to take wing in so light a breeze, but flapping
+away, half paddling and half flying, as we came toward them, they
+managed to keep a long gun-shot off; but having laid in at the last port
+a turkey of no mean proportions, which we made shift to roast in the
+"caboose" aboard, we could look at a duck without wishing its
+destruction. With this turkey and a bountiful plum duff, we made out a
+dinner even on the _Liberdade_.
+
+Of the many Christmas days that come crowding in my recollections now;
+days spent on the sea and in foreign lands, as falls to the lot of
+sailors--which was the merriest it would be hard to say. Of this,
+however, I am certain, that the one on board the _Liberdade_ on the
+Chesapeake was not the least happy of them all.
+
+The day following Christmas found us on the Potomac, enjoying the same
+fine weather and abundant good cheer of the day before. Fair winds
+carried us through all the reaches of the river, and the same prosperity
+which attended our little bark in the beginning of the voyage through
+tempestuous weather followed her to the end of the voyage, which
+terminated in mild days and pleasant sunshine.
+
+On the 27th of December, 1888, a south wind bore us into harbour at
+Washington, D.C., there we moored for the winter, furled our sails and
+coiled up the ropes, after a voyage of joys and sorrows, crowned with
+pleasures, however, which lessened the pain of past regrets.
+
+Having moored the _Liberdade_ and weather-bitted her cables, it remains
+only to be said that after bringing us safely through the dangers of a
+tropical voyage, clearing reefs, shoals, breakers, and all storms
+without a serious accident of any kind, we learned to love the little
+canoe as well as anything could be loved that is made by hands.
+
+To say that we had not a moment of ill-health on the voyage would not
+tell the whole story.
+
+My wife, brave enough to face the worst storms, as women are sometimes
+known to do on sea and on land, enjoyed not only the best of health, but
+had gained a richer complexion.
+
+Victor, at the end of the voyage, found that he had grown an inch and
+had not been frightened out of his boots.
+
+Little Garfield--well he had grown some, too, and continued to be a
+pretty good boy and had managed to hold his grip through many ups and
+downs. He it was who stood by the bow line to make fast as quick as the
+_Liberdade_ came to the pier at the end of the voyage.
+
+And I, last, as it should be, lost a few pounds' weight, but like the
+rest landed in perfect health; taking it altogether, therefore, only
+pleasant recollections of the voyage remain with us who made it.
+
+With all its vicissitudes I still love a life on the broad, free ocean,
+never regretting the choice of my profession.
+
+However, the time has come to debark from the _Liberdade_, now breasted
+to the pier where I leave her for a time; for my people are landed safe
+in port.
+
+
+
+
+DISPOSAL OF THE LIBERDADE
+
+About the middle of April the _Liberdade_ cast loose her moorings from
+the dock at Washington, and spreading sail before a brave west wind,
+bent her course along down the Potomac with the same facility as
+experienced in December coming up before a wind from the South; then
+shaping her course for New York via Baltimore and Philadelphia through
+inland passages, the voyage was turned into a pleasure excursion.
+Animation of spring clothed the landscape on all sides in its greatest
+beauty; and our northern forest the voyagers found upon their return was
+not less charming than "tropic shade" of foreign climes. And the robin
+sang even a sweeter trill than ever before heard by the crew, for they
+listened to it now in the country that they loved.
+
+From New York, the _Liberdade_ sailed for Boston via New London, New
+Bedford, Martha's Vineyard, Newport, and Taunton, at which latter place
+she hauled out, and the crew, thence to the Bay State Capital, enjoyed
+the novelty of a "sail over land."
+
+Then the _Liberdade_ moored snug in Boston and her crew spent the winter
+again among friends. They met here during this time the man who advised
+the captain at Buenos Aires to pitch the _Aquidneck's_ cargo of hay into
+the sea; for not taking the advice--witness, alas! the captain's plight!
+
+Finally, upon return of spring, the _Liberdade_ was refitted on a voyage
+retracing her course to Washington, where, following safe arrival, she
+will end her days in the Smithsonian Institution; a haven of honour that
+many will be glad to know she has won.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's Voyage of the Liberdade, by Captain Joshua Slocum
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