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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Narrative of a Mission to Central Africa
+Performed in the Years 1850-51, Volume 2, by James Richardson
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Narrative of a Mission to Central Africa Performed in the Years 1850-51, Volume 2
+       Under the Orders and at the Expense of Her Majesty's Government
+
+Author: James Richardson
+
+Release Date: June 9, 2006 [EBook #18544]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: UTF-8
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MISSION TO CENTRAL AFRICA ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Carlo Traverso, Annika Feilbach and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This
+file was produced from images generously made available
+by the Bibliothèque nationale de France (BnF/Gallica) at
+http://gallica.bnf.fr)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Transcriber's note:
+This text contains the unicode characters ā, ă, ĕ and ō in a few
+places. If any of these characters do not display for you properly,
+please see the Latin-1 text version for a transcription.]
+
+
+
+
+
+NARRATIVE OF A MISSION TO CENTRAL AFRICA
+PERFORMED IN THE YEARS 1850-51,
+
+UNDER THE ORDERS AND AT THE EXPENSE OF HER MAJESTY'S GOVERNMENT.
+
+
+BY THE LATE JAMES RICHARDSON,
+AUTHOR OF "TRAVELS IN THE GREAT DESERT OF SAHARA."
+
+
+IN TWO VOLUMES.
+
+VOL. II.
+
+LONDON:
+CHAPMAN AND HALL, 193 PICADILLY.
+
+MDCCCLIII.
+
+
+
+LONDON:
+Printed by G. Barclay, Castle St. Leicester Sq.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+Description of Tintalous and its Environs--Palace and
+Huts--Bedsteads--Kailouee Race--Unhandsome Conduct of Mr.
+Gagliuffi--Proposed Journey to Aghadez--Dr. Barth starts--An obstinate
+Bullock--Present extraordinary--State of Zinder--Affability of the
+Sultan--Power of Charms--Scorpions--Dialogue with a Ghâtee--Splendid
+Meteors--Visit from En-Noor--Intrigues of the Fellatahs--A Sultan loaded
+with Presents--Talk of departing for Zinder--State of the Bornou
+Road--Division of a Bullock--Bottle of Rum stolen--More Visits from the
+Sultan--A Musical Entertainment--Curious Etymological Discussions--A
+wonderful Prophetess--Secret Societies--Magicians--The Evil
+Eye--Morality of Soudan--Magnificent Meteor--Stories of the Sfaxee.
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+Muslim want of Curiosity--Gossip on Meteors--A Family Broil--Rationale
+of Wife-beating--Abominable Dances--Evil Communications--Dr.
+Overweg--Kailouee Vocabulary--Windy Day--Account of Wadaï--Madame
+En-Noor--Profits of Commerce--The letter _Ghain_--Fellatah
+Language--Introduction of Islamism--Desert Routes--Trade in Agate
+Stones--A lively Patient--The Eed--A Visit _en masse_--Arrival of the
+Boat--Butchers--Exchange of Visits with the Sultan--Diet--A Shereef--A
+delicate Request--Information on Maradee--Tesaoua--Itinerant
+Schoolmasters--En-Noor's Territory in Damerghou--Unpleasant
+Communication--Amulets--The Foundation of a City in the
+Desert--En-Noor's Political Pretensions.
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+News from Barth--Camels restored--Expensive Journey--Proposed Migration
+of Males--Supply of Slaves, whence--A new Well--Pagans and
+Christians--Tibboo Manners--The great Gong--When is a Tibboo
+hungry?--Hunger-belt--Queen of England in the Sahara--The Shanbah--A
+hasty Marriage--Saïd's new Wife--Wild Cauliflowers--Tolerance of the
+Kailouees--Men go to fetch Salt from Bilma--Approach of Dr.
+Barth--Lion's Mouth--Tibboos and Kailouees--Mysteries of
+Tintalous--Fewness of Men in Aheer--Trees preserved in the
+Valley--Bright Stars--Method of Salutation--Purposed Stars--Kailouee
+Character--Champagne at Tintalous--The Wells.
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+Dr. Barth's Journey to Aghadez--Description of the
+Route--Tiggedah--Luxuriant Scenery of Asadah--Plain of Tarist--Beautiful
+Valley--Buddeh--Small Caravan--Aghadez--its Inhabitants--their
+Occupation--The great Koku, or Sultan--Asbenouee Revolutions--Election
+of a Prince--Interview--Ceremony of Investiture--Razzia--Intricate
+Political System--Account of Aghadez--Mosque--Environs--Women--Tribes
+of Asben--The Targhee Family--Population of the Ghât
+Districts--of Aheer--The Oulimad and Tanelkums--Tribe of
+Janet--Haghar--Sagamaram--Maghatah--Extent of Aheer--Connexion
+with the Black Countries--Mechanism of Society in
+Aheer--Chieftains--Tax-gathering--Food of the
+Kailouees--Maharees--Amusements--Natural Features of
+Asben--Vegetation--Cultivation--Manufactures--Bags for Charms.
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+Projected Departure for Damerghou--False Start--Picturesque
+Caravan--Sultan's Views of White Skins--My Birthday--The Sultan fights
+his Battles over again--His Opinion of Women--Bragging--The Razzia on
+the Fadeea--Political News in the Desert--Cold Weather--Continue our
+Journey--Bornouese Fighis--Tin-Tagannu--Trap for a Lion--Mousa's
+Camels--A further Delay--Jackals and the Fire--Language of
+Signs--Tintalousian Coquettes--Departure of the Zinder Caravan--Natural
+Features--Languages--The Kilgris--Killing Lice--The Razzia to the
+North--Present of a Draught-board--Pagan Nations--Favourable Reports.
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+Medicine for Bad Eyes--A summary Proceeding--News from the
+Salt-Caravan--Towns and Villages of Tesaoua--Earthquakes--Presents for
+the Sultan of Maradee--Yusuf's Insolence--English Money in Aheer--A
+Razzia on the Holy City--Bornouese Studies--Gipsies of Soudan--En-Noor
+and the Marabouts--Ghaseb--State of the Weather--Calculations for the
+Future--Senna--Relations of Man and Wife in Aheer--En-Noor in his
+Family--Gouber and Maradee--Beer-drinking--Study of the Sau--Shara--The
+Oulimad--Lions--Translating Jokes--Digging a Well--Projects.
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+Razzia on the Fadeea--Haussa--Names of Places--Ant-track--Circular
+Letter from Mourzuk--Vast Rock--Mustapha Bey's Letter--Effects of
+Water--Butterflies--Aspect of the Country--A Slave advanced
+to Honour--Shonshona--Herbage--Birds--Appearance of the
+Salt-Caravan--Colours of Dawn--Bilma Salt--Mode of Barter--Pass the Rock
+of Mari--Granite--Indigo Plant--Presents at Stamboul--The Sultan begs
+again--Old Men's Importunities--Baghzem--Curiosities of the
+Route--People of Damerghou--Temporary Village of Women--Country begins
+to open--Barter Transaction with Lady En-Noor.
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+We continue our Journey--Huntsmen--Gum on the Tholukhs--The
+Salt-Caravan--A Bunch of Gum--Games among the
+Slaves--Baghzem--Trees--Palm of Pharaoh--Deserted Villages--Birds'
+Nests--Wife of En-Noor--Unan--Lizards--Bad News--Christmas
+day in Africa--Christmas-boxes--Begging Tuaricks
+again--Bargot--Musicians--Speculations--Tribes at War--Parasitical
+Plant--Importance of Salt--Animals--Agalgo--Force of the Caravan--Beat
+of Drum--Approach the Hamadah--Giraffes--Poisoned Arrows--Ear of
+Ghaseb--Soudan and Bornou Roads.
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+Enter the Hamadah--Home of the Giraffe--Water of
+Chidugulah--Turtles--Cool Wind--Jerboahs--Centre of the
+Sahara--New-year's Eve--Cold Weather--Birds of Prey--Soudan
+Date--Burs--Animals on the Plateau--Young Ostrich--The
+Tholukh-tree--Severe Cold--Eleven Ostriches--Termination of the
+Desert--Inasamet--The Tagama--Purchases--People begin to
+improve--Fruit of the Lote-tree--Village roofed with Skins--Vast
+Plain--Horses--Approach Damerghou--Village of Gumrek--Rough
+Customers--Wars of the Kilgris and Kailouees--A small
+Lake--Guinea-hens--Vultures--Party of Huntsmen.
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+My Barracan--Spontaneous Civility on arrival in Damerghou--Ghaseb
+Stubble--Cactus--Water-Melons--Party of Tuaricks--Boban Birni--Huts of
+Damerghou--Tagelel--Women of the Village--Population of the
+Country--Complaisant Ladies--Festivities--Aquatic Birds--Dancing--A
+Flatterer--A Slave Family--A new Reason for Wife-beating--Hazna
+Dancers--Damerghou, common ground--Purchase of Ghaseb--Dethroned
+Sultan--Yusuf--Mohammed Tunisee--Ophthalmia--Part with Barth and
+Overweg--Presents to Servants--Sheikh of Fumta--Yakobah
+Slave--Applications for Medicine--Boban Birni--Forest--At length enter
+Bornou ground--Daazzenai--Tuarick Respectabilities--Detachment of the
+Salt-Caravan.
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+March for Zinder--Enter the City--Reception--Delighted to escape from
+the Tuaricks--Letters from Kuka--Hospitable Treatment--Presents for the
+Sarkee and others--Visit the Shereef--His Duties--Audience of the
+Sarkee--Servility--Double-skulled Slave--Powder and Shot--Portrait of
+the Sultan--Commission from Kuka--European Clothes--Family of
+En-Noor--Tour of the Town--Scavengers--List of Sultans of Central
+Africa--Ancient Haussa--The Market--Money--Conversation
+with the Shereef--The Sultan at Home--Mixed Race of
+Zinder--Statistics--Personages of the Court.
+
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+Presents from Officials--Mode of treating Camels--Prices--Cowrie
+Money--Shereef Interpreter--Visits--Harem--Houses--Grand
+Vizier--Picturesque Dances--Tuaricks at Zinder--Kohlans and
+Fullans--Province of Zinder--Account of its Rebellions--Trees--Details
+on the Slave-trade--Prices--Mode of obtaining Slaves--Abject
+Respect of the Sultan--Visits--Interview with the Sarkee--The
+Presence--Curious Mode of administering Justice--Barbarous
+Punishments--Hyænas--Gurasu--Fighis--Place of Execution--Tree of
+Death--Hyæna Dens--Dancing.
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+
+Brother of the Sultan--Trade of Zinder--Prices--The Sarkee drinks
+Rum--Five Cities--Houses of Zinder--Female Toilette--Another Tree of
+Death--Paganism--Severity of the Sultan--Lemons--Barth and
+Overweg--Fire--Brother of the Sarkee--Daura--Shonshona--Lousou--Slaves
+in Irons--Reported Razzia--Talk with the Shereef--Humble
+Manners--Applications for Medicines--Towns and Villages of Zinder--The
+great Drum--Dyers--Tuarick Visits--Rationale of Razzias--Slaves--"Like
+Prince like People"--French in Algiers--The Market--Old Slave--Infamous
+System--Plan of the great Razzia.
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV.
+
+Family of the Sarkee--Converted Jew--Hard Dealings--How to get rid of a
+Wife--Route to Tesaoua--Influence of Slavery--Prices of Aloes and
+Silk--Medicine for a Merchant--Departure of the Sarkee for the
+Razzia--Encampment--Mode of Fighting--Produce of Razzias--Story of the
+Tibboo--Sheikh Lousou--Gumel--Superstitions--Matting--Visit
+of Ladies--The Jew--Incendiaries--Hazna--Legend of Zinder
+Well--Kohul--Cousin of the Sheikh--Female Sheikh--State of the
+Country--Salutations.
+
+
+CHAPTER XV.
+
+Political News--Animals of Zinder--Sleepy City--District
+of Korgum--Razzias--Family of Sheikh Omer of
+Bornou--Brothers--Sons--Sisters--Daughters--Viziers--Kashallas--Power of
+the Sheikh--A Cheating Prince--Old Slave--Fetishism--Devil in a
+Tuarick's head--Kibabs--Fires--A Prophecy--Another Version of the
+Razzia--Correspondence between Korgum and Zinder.
+
+
+CHAPTER XVI.
+
+Sheikh of Bornou--Arab Women--News from the Razzia--Procession of
+newly-caught Slaves--Entrance of the Sarkee--Chained Slaves--My Servant
+at the Razzia--Audacity of Bornou Slaves--Korgum--Konchai--Product of
+the Razzia--Ghadamsee Merchants--Slave-trade--Incident at Korgum--State
+of Kanou--A Hue and Cry--Black Character--Vegetables at
+Zinder--Minstrel--Medi--Gardens--Ladies--Fanaticism--Americans at
+Niffee--Rich People--Tuaricks Sick--Morals--Dread of the
+Sarkee--Fashions.
+
+
+CHAPTER XVII.
+
+News from Tesaoua--Razzia on Sakkatou--Laziness in Zinder--The
+Hajah--Herds of Cattle--More Tuarick Patients--Gardens--My
+Luggage--Adieu to the Sarkee--Present from his Highness--Start from
+Zinder--Country--Birds--Overtake the Kashalla--Slaves for
+Kanou--Continue the Journey--People of Deddegi--Their Timidity--Horse
+Exercise--Cotton--Strange Birds--Occupation of Men and Women--State of
+African Society--Islamism and Paganism--Character of the Kashalla--A
+Dogberry--Guddemuni--Cultivation--Beggars--Dancing Maidens.
+
+
+CHAPTER XVIII.
+
+A Village plundered--Shaidega--Animals--Our Biscuit--Villages _en
+route_--Minyo--Respect for Learning--Monotony of the Country--A
+Wedding--Palsy--Slave-agents--Kal, Kal--Birni Gamatak--Tuaricks on the
+Plain--Palms--Sight the Town of Gurai--Bare Country--Bearings of various
+Places--Province of Minyo--Visit the Sultan--Audience-room--Fine
+Costume--A Scene of Barbaric Splendour--Trade--Estimate of Wealth--How
+to amuse a Prince--Small Present--The Oars carried by Men--Town of
+Gurai--Fortifications.
+
+
+CHAPTER XIX.
+
+Fezzanee Traders--Sultan in want of Medicine--The Stud--Letters--Yusuf's
+Conduct--Architecture--Fragment of the History of Minyo--Politics
+of Zinder--Bornouese Fish--Visits--Two Routes--Dancing by
+Moonlight--Richness--Fires--Information on Boushi and Adamaua--The
+Yamyam--Liver Complaints--A Girl's Game--Desert Country--Gift Camel--Few
+Living Creatures--Village of Gusumana--Environs--The Doom
+Fruit--Brothers of Sultan of Sakkatou--Stupid Kadi--Showing off--Hot
+Weather--[Final Note--Death of Mr. Richardson.]
+
+
+APPENDIX.
+
+
+
+
+
+NARRATIVE OF A MISSION TO CENTRAL AFRICA
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+Description of Tintalous and its Environs--Palace and
+Huts--Bedsteads--Kailouee Race--Unhandsome Conduct of Mr.
+Gagliuffi--Proposed Journey to Aghadez--Dr. Barth starts--An obstinate
+Bullock--Present extraordinary--State of Zinder--Affability of the
+Sultan--Power of Charms--Scorpions--Dialogue with a Ghâtee--Splendid
+Meteors--Visit from En-Noor--Intrigues of the Fellatahs--A Sultan loaded
+with Presents--Talk of departing for Zinder--State of the Bornou
+Road--Division of a Bullock--Bottle of Rum stolen--More Visits from the
+Sultan--A Musical Entertainment--Curious Etymological Discussions--A
+wonderful Prophetess--Secret Societies--Magicians--The Evil
+Eye--Morality of Soudan--Magnificent Meteor--Stories of the Sfaxee.
+
+
+I begin at length to consider myself as it were at home in this singular
+country of Aheer--without, however, experiencing any desire to dally
+here longer than the force of circumstances absolutely requires. It must
+be confessed, as I have already hinted, that the town of Tintalous,[1]
+in front of which we are encamped, does not at all answer the idea which
+our too active imagination had formed. Yet it is a singular place. It is
+situated on rocky ground, at the bend of a broad valley, which in the
+rainy season becomes often-times the bed of a temporary river. Here and
+there around it are scattered numerous trees, many of considerable size,
+giving the surface of the valley something of a park-like appearance.
+The herbage is not rich, but it is ornamental, and refreshes the eye in
+contrast with the black, naked rocks, which rise on all hands to the
+height often of two or three thousand feet. To the east, it is true, the
+country is a little open; and between the mountains run in numerous
+white sandy wadys, sprinkled with fresh green plants, or shaded by
+various species of mimosa and other spreading trees, under which the
+shepherds and herdsmen find shelter from the sun.
+
+  [1] Tintalous is 40 short and 30 long days from Ghât, N.N.E.;
+      60 short and 50 long from Mourzuk, N.E.; 20 short, 15 long,
+      from Zinder or Damerghou, S.S.W.; 7 long, 10 or 12 short,
+      from Bilma, E.; 38 to 45 days from Tuat, N.W. (_viâ_
+      Taghajeet). Maharees, of course, trot and gallop in half
+      the time. These are native statements.
+
+The principal feature of Tintalous itself is what may be called the
+palace of En-Noor. It is, indeed, one, compared with the huts and stone
+hovels amidst which it is placed. The materials are stone plastered with
+mud, and also the wood of the mimosa tree. The form is an oblong square,
+one story high, with an interior courtyard, and various appendages and
+huts around on the outside. There is another house, and also a mosque
+built in the same style, but much smaller. Of the rest of the
+habitations, a few are stone sheds, but the greater part are huts made
+of the dry stalks of the fine herb called bou rekabah, in the form of a
+conical English haystack, and are very snug, impervious alike to rain
+and sun. There are not more than one hundred and fifty of these huts and
+sheds, scattered over a considerable space, without any order; some are
+placed two or three together within a small enclosure, which serves as a
+court or yard, in which visitors are received and cooking is carried on.
+There is another little village at a stone's-throw north. The
+inhabitants of these two villages consist entirely of the slaves and
+dependants of En-Noor.
+
+All around Tintalous, within an hour or two hours' ride, there are
+villages or towns of precisely the same description, more or less
+numerously peopled. At Seloufeeat and Tintaghoda, however, we saw more
+houses built of stone and mud. This may be accounted for by the fact
+that the inhabitants are not nearly so migratory as those of Tintalous,
+who often follow in a body the motions of their master, so that he is
+ever surrounded by an imposing household.
+
+I must not omit mentioning an important article of furniture which is to
+be observed in all the houses of Aheer--namely, the bedstead. Whilst
+most of the inhabitants of Fezzan lie upon skins or mats upon the
+ground, the Kailouees have a nice light palm-branch bedstead, which
+enables them to escape the damp of the rainy season, and the attack of
+dangerous insects and reptiles like the scorpion and the lêfa.
+
+I shall hereafter make a few observations on the tribes inhabiting
+Aheer. Here I will note that they are all called Targhee, that is
+Tuarick, by the traders of the north; and that the predominant race is
+the Kailouee. To me the latter seems to be a mixture of the Berbers, or
+supposed aborigines of the northern coast, with all the tribes and
+varieties of tribes of the interior of Africa. This may account for
+their having less pride and stiffness than the Tuaricks of Ghât, who are
+purer Berbers; as well as for their disposition to thieving and petty
+larceny, of which I have recently been obliged to give some examples.
+The pure Berbers, likewise, are much less sensual than their bastard
+descendants, who seem, indeed, to have no idea of pleasure but in its
+grossest shape.
+
+The Kailouees are, for the most part, tall and active, little encumbered
+by bulky bodies; some having both complexion and features nearly
+European. At any rate there are many as fair-looking as the Arabs
+generally, whilst others are quite negro in colour. The women are
+smaller and stouter; some are fattened like the Mooresses of the coast,
+and attain to an enormous degree of _embon-point_. They are not
+ill-looking, but offer nothing remarkable in their forms.
+
+I have already set down many particulars of manners, and shall proceed
+to do so in the same disjointed way. At a future time all these traits
+must be collected to form one picture.[2] For the present I am anxious
+about the future progress of the Mission, and impatient, at any rate, to
+hear some news of our advance. We cannot do all the things we would. Our
+position is almost that of prisoners. We must depend entirely on the
+caprice of En-Noor, who, however, may already have laid out his plans
+distinctly, though he does not choose to communicate them to us.
+
+  [2] Perhaps the note-books of Mr. Richardson, in which facts
+      are set down fresh and distinct just as they presented
+      themselves, will be found to be more interesting than an
+      elaborate narrative. At any rate it has seemed better not
+      to attempt to do what was left undone in this matter.--ED.
+
+_Oct. 2d._--We have been lately discussing the practicability of going
+to Sakkatou, on a visit to the Sultan Bello; and this morning I looked
+over, for the first time, some "letters of credit" which Mr. Gagliuffi,
+our plausible consul at Mourzuk, had given me. I found that the amount
+offered for the use of the expedition in Kanou does not exceed a hundred
+and fifty reals of Fezzan, or about twenty pounds sterling, and that the
+agent is expressly requested not to advance any more! This extraordinary
+document induced me to look further, and it soon appeared that the
+documents on which I relied so much were mere delusions. The wording of
+the Arabic letter to Bornou was ambiguous; but in as far as I and my
+interpreter could make it out, Haj Bashaw, to whom it is addressed, was
+requested, if he had any money of Mr. Gagliuffi's in hand, to give me _a
+little_! I really did not expect that a person in whom I had placed so
+much confidence would play me this trick. But it seems that Levantines
+are and will be Levantines to the end of time. I have written to
+Government, complaining of this unworthy conduct.
+
+_3d._--Dr. Barth is about to take advantage of the delay necessarily
+incurred at Tintalous to visit Aghadez, the real capital of Aheer, to
+which the new Sultan has lately been led, and where his investiture will
+shortly be celebrated. This journey will extend our knowledge of this
+singular Saharan country, and may also be of advantage in procuring the
+signature of the Sultan to a treaty of commerce.
+
+_4th._--Dr. Barth started this morning in company with Hamma, Waled Ocht
+En-Noor (son of the sister of En-Noor). The departure took place in
+presence of the Sultan himself, who had come to take tea with me. The
+caravan was at first composed of bullocks, the camels being a little in
+advance on the road. Our friend the Doctor started astride on one of
+these animals, which are a little difficult to manage, especially when
+they have been out at grass for some time. Indeed, in the first place,
+it is no easy matter to catch them from amongst the herds; then it is
+hard to load them; and then, though not often, they refuse to proceed.
+On this occasion a powerful brute proved absolutely unmanageable.
+En-Noor, seeing its obstinacy, exclaimed that he gave it to me to kill
+and eat. He afterwards, however, modified his gift, and said that the
+bullock was also to be distributed amongst the Arabs of the caravans now
+in Tintalous; and that we were to give a turban as a present to the
+herdsman. I was told that, in the meantime, representation had been made
+to him, to the effect that it was unfair to distinguish the Christians
+in this manner. Soon after the animal was given it ran away, and no one
+could catch it.
+
+Well, the bullock caravan went off in good style; and Sultan En-Noor
+remained taking his tea and eating English pickles and marmalade with
+me. He drank the tea and ate the other delicacies with evident pleasure,
+not being afraid, like the greater part of his subjects, to eat the food
+of Christians. Possession of power seems to have one good effect--the
+destruction of prejudice; pity that it sometimes goes further and
+destroys belief. En-Noor told us that the Sultan of Asoudee had gone out
+on a razzia to the west. We are obliged to hope that it will be
+successful, as otherwise our affairs will most materially suffer. We
+talked also of the state of Zinder, which is represented to be a walled
+town, with seven gates built amidst and around some huge rocks. The
+governor, Ibrahim, keeps fifty drummers at work every night, but whether
+with a purpose superstitious or political I do not know.
+
+En-Noor admired much the portraits of the personages who figure in the
+accounts of the former expedition to this part of the world,
+particularly that of Clapperton. He had also a wonderful story to tell
+of this traveller's magic. He said that Abdallah (Clapperton's
+travelling name) had learned from his books the site of his (En-Noor's)
+father's house, that near it was a gold mine, and that he had intended
+to come and give intelligence of this treasure. "See!" exclaimed the
+Sultan, "what wonderful things are written in the books of the
+Christians!"
+
+My young fighi (or writer of charms) tells me, as a secret, that he
+cannot write a talisman for himself, but must ask another of the
+brotherhood to do this for him. Neither in this place can physicians
+heal themselves. This civil youth made me a present of a piece of his
+workmanship to-day, observing, "There is great profit in its power; it
+will preserve you from the cut of the sword and the firing of the gun."
+I pray not to have occasion to test its efficacy, but hope it may also
+serve as a protection from the bite of scorpions, which are so plentiful
+about here, and are said, at this season, to jump like grasshoppers.
+According to the people of Tintalous there are three species of them,
+each distinguished by a different colour--black, red, and yellow.
+Despite the talk of these disgusting reptiles I went in the evening to
+see the wells which supply Tintalous with water. They are nothing more
+than holes scooped out of the sand in the bed of the wady, and supplied
+by _ma-el-matr_, "rain-water," which collects only a few feet under the
+sand, and passes through no minerals.
+
+I afterwards proceeded to the encampment of the slave caravan, which is
+going in a few days to Ghât. A native of that place--the chief,
+indeed--was exceedingly rude at our first rencounter, and the following
+dialogue took place:--
+
+_The Ghâtee._ Where are you going?
+
+_Myself._ I am going to Sakkatou.
+
+_The Ghâtee._ What for?
+
+_Myself._ To see the Sultan, who is my friend.
+
+_The Ghâtee._ How do you know him?
+
+_Myself._ The English have known him for years past.
+
+_The Ghâtee._ Ah!
+
+_Myself._ Yes.
+
+_The Ghâtee._ Have you any dollars--large dollars? (making a large
+circle with his thumb and forefinger.)
+
+_Myself._ No: I don't carry money to Soudan, which is of no use to me.
+There I shall have wadâ.
+
+_Ghâtee._ Eh! Eh! But cannot you give me a turban?
+
+_Myself._ No, I am not a merchant, I don't bring such things; go to the
+Arab merchants and buy.
+
+_Ghâtee._ Um! Um!
+
+_Myself._ Do you know Mohammed Kafa in Ghât?
+
+_Ghâtee._ Oh, yes!
+
+_Myself._ He is my friend.
+
+_Ghâtee._ Allah!
+
+_Myself._ Yes; he sent me a fine dinner twice whilst I was in Ghât.
+
+_Ghâtee._ Allah! Allah!
+
+_Myself._ Do you know Haj Ibrahim? He is my great friend.
+
+_Ghâtee._ Allah! Allah! (greatly surprised).
+
+_Myself._ Why, how is it that you do not know me, Yakōb, as I have
+been in Ghât many years before?
+
+At this some of the other people of the caravan cried out, "Yes, yes, we
+all know Yakōb;" so that I left the rude slave-merchant quite
+crest-fallen. He evidently, at first, wished to assume the airs of a
+Haghar, and bully me out of a present.
+
+The caravan consisted of some thirty poor young women and children.
+There was also with them a small quantity of elephants' teeth.
+
+Now that the moon is absent and the nights are clear we have a most
+splendid view of the heavens, its stars and constellations. The number
+of meteors darting to and fro overhead is very great--nearly one a
+minute shoots along. Some are only a faint glimmer, and have but the
+existence of a moment, whilst others are very beautiful and last several
+seconds.
+
+_5th._--The weather is improving; the strong gusts of wind have ceased,
+and so has the rain. We have now calm and fine days with moderate heat.
+
+In the afternoon I received another visit from En-Noor, who came
+straight into my tent, like an old friend whom I had known for twenty
+years. He stopped with me at least an hour, drinking tea and smoking,
+chatting the while about his past history and present affairs. He
+reiterated again assurances of his friendship for the English, and his
+determination to remain the ally of the Queen of England! He referred to
+the time when the great Bello, sultan of Sakkatou, sent his ambassador
+to request him (En-Noor) and all his people to subject themselves to the
+Fellatahs. En-Noor gave him for answer, "I am under God, the servant of
+God, and shall not submit myself to you or to any one upon earth. My
+father, and grandfather, and great-grandfather, and all my ancestors,
+ruled here, and were the servants of God, and I shall follow in their
+steps." The Fellatahs then tried to seduce the people, but they all
+said, "We have one Sultan, that is En-Noor." All the other authorities
+of Aheer followed the example, and preserved their independence, the
+people everywhere arming themselves with whatever weapons they had in
+case a war should break out.
+
+After this narrative, En-Noor spoke again of the English, and said he
+should send a maharee for the Queen.
+
+I gave him a fancy ring of the value of threepence, with a mock diamond
+in it, which he immediately put on his finger with as much glee and
+pride as the gayest Parisian coquette. Yusuf and the Sfaxee, being
+present, swore it was _diamanti_; but I am quite sure the old Sheikh
+understood the compliment. I also gave him a pair of bellows, a basin,
+and a pint bottle with a little oil it; with all these things he was
+greatly delighted, continually admiring and trying the bellows. When he
+went out of the tent he himself carried all these articles away under
+his arm.
+
+With reference to our wish to start for Zinder, the Sultan says he will
+send immediately for the boat, that it may be ready by the time Dr.
+Barth returns from Aghadez, when he is determined himself to take that
+route. He seems now in the enjoyment of good health. I felt much
+satisfied with his visit. Certainly, when I reflect that in the northern
+frontier of Aheer we were pursued for several days, like monsters not
+fit to live, by armed bands, this appears to me extraordinary
+condescension on the part of En-Noor. I hope we shall part in a friendly
+manner. This worthy sovereign gives the present Sultan of Sakkatou, Ali
+Bello, the character of a miser, but says that his father was a man of
+liberality. He cannot exceed En-Noor himself in greediness.
+
+The bad state of the Bornou route is accounted for by the desire the
+Kailouees have to render it unsafe, so that they may have all the
+caravans come along their own route. The same thing is said of the
+Timbuctoo route from Soudan. The Haghar murder all who attempt to go
+from Soudan to Timbuctoo, in order that the caravans may pass Ghât and
+Tuat. This is called the natural explanation of the bad character of
+these routes.
+
+_6th._--I continue to record the few characteristic incidents of my
+residence at Tintalous. Our bullock has been at last killed. We could
+not catch him, but shot him down. The carcase was divided between no
+less than twenty persons, and the meat proved to be pretty good. Of my
+share I made steaks, which I washed down with some tea and rum. This is
+the first time we have had fresh beef since leaving Tripoli. The event
+created an immense sensation throughout the whole town of Tintalous, for
+the slaughter of a bullock does not take place there every day.
+
+This morning I administered two ounces of Epsom salts to a good-natured
+Kailouee, who, although perfectly well, would persist in begging for
+medicine. These people are continually asking to be doctored when
+nothing ails them. En-Noor seems to have taken a fancy to our morning
+beverages, and has sent for tea and coffee. I am afraid he will become a
+regular customer. Yusuf carried off a bottle of rum from the tent in the
+evening, which occasioned a disturbance between the servants and myself.
+This worthy is not to be trusted with the care of any strong liquor. The
+little Hamadee was privy to the theft. In the course of the evening the
+_new moon_ was seen by seven creditable persons, so that in eight days
+more we shall have the Feast of the "Descent of the Koran from Heaven,"
+and four or five days after that we hope to start for Zinder.
+
+_7th._--This was a fine morning, with the thermometer at sunrise in the
+tent 70°; outside, 66°. The water has been so cooled during the night
+that my hands ached when I washed them. Later in the season it will be
+yet colder; and all reports tell us that in Kanou after the rains it is
+often very chilly.
+
+His highness the Sultan again was attracted by my tea and marmalade, and
+gave me a call. He desired to see once more the portrait of Clapperton,
+and told me that Abdallah had five women in Sakkatou, and had left
+behind him three children, all boys. The Sultan was excessively friendly
+in manner, which induced me to make him another little present of a ring
+set with paste, and a small pair of gilt scissors for one of his wives.
+He calls me his brother, and manifests increased anxiety to be friendly
+with the English. According to him, a short time since the Sheikh of
+El-Fadeea, who commanded the attack made on us at the frontier, came
+here; and, in consideration of a few presents and compliments, had
+promised to exert himself to procure the restoration of our lost or
+stolen camels. En-Noor also again talked about the boat. I am in great
+hopes that we shall part from him on good terms, and that he will be
+true to his protestations. There is generally a companion with the old
+gentleman on these visits. This time it was an aged Tanelkum, who
+married a sister of the Sheikh and has been settled many years in the
+country. We gave him more tea, and also a piece of white sugar, to carry
+home.
+
+This evening the Fezzan and Tripoli Arabs had a musical entertainment,
+accompanied with dancing, at which Madame En-Noor and several
+distinguished ladies of Tintalous assisted. It was the usual singing
+business, with Moorish hammering on tambourines. The dance was performed
+by men, mostly in imitation of the women, and was also of the usual
+inelegant and indelicate description. However, there was a little mixing
+of the derwish dances. The thing went off to the great satisfaction of
+the Kailouees, and was kept up till midnight.
+
+_8th._--I slept little after the villanous dancing and riot of the
+preceding night, and rose late. My occupation this day was completing my
+vocabulary of the Kailouee language, of which I expect to collect a
+thousand words. My interpreter sometimes gives very curious explanations
+when I work with him. The Arabic word which we translate "Alas!" coming
+under consideration, he observed: "There is no corresponding word in the
+languages of these countries. This word belongs to the Koran and the
+next world." He means, that the word has only a relation to the torment
+of the damned. It is curious that this Arabic term agrees with, or is
+like, our word _wail_ (Ar. _weel_), and is the term used by our
+translators of the New Testament in describing the torments of the lost,
+"Weeping and _wailing_" &c.
+
+Of the term "chaste," Yusuf observed, "There is no such expression in
+these languages; all the women are alike, and equally accessible when
+danger is absent." It is also true that the men place no bounds to their
+sensual appetites, and are restrained only by inability. It may be,
+however, that the more religious would have some scruples about
+intriguing with their neighbours' wives.
+
+When we came to the word "school" Yusuf pretended there was not such a
+word in Kailouee. He asked, "Where in Tintalous is there a school?" The
+question, unfortunately, is put with too much truth. The Kailouees
+hereabouts seem entirely to neglect education.
+
+I myself observe that the Arabic _booss_ answers exactly to the vulgar
+word in English for _kiss_.[3] The name of a raven is one of many
+remarkable examples of a word being chosen to imitate in sound some
+peculiarity of the thing signified. In this case, _kāk_ irresistibly
+reminds one of the raven's croaking voice; which we describe by _caw_.
+_Kass_, scissors, is also an imitation of the sound produced by this
+instrument in cutting.
+
+  [3] A good many similarities of this kind, accidental or
+      otherwise, might be pointed out: _ydrub_ is "to drub;"
+      _kaab_ would be translated, in old English, "kibe;"
+      _ykattah_ is "to cut;" _kotta_, "a cat;" _bak_, "a bug;"
+      _stabl_, "a stable," &c. &c. I have noticed, also, some
+      similarities with French words e.g. _ykassar_,
+      "casser"--ED.
+
+In the evening the Sfaxee and Yusuf came to pay us a visit, and related
+divers sorts of wonders of this and other countries of Africa. The first
+matter concerned us. Eight days ago died in Tintalous an old witch, or
+prophetess, a negress, who foretold our arrival, and said to En-Noor, "A
+caravan of Englishmen is on the road from Tripoli, coming to you." This
+woman for many years was a foreteller of future events. The next thing
+we heard referred to the secret societies of Central Africa. Some of the
+chiefs of these societies have the power of killing with their eyes. One
+of these fellows is known to have gone to a merchant, in whose arms was
+sleeping a pretty female slave, and to have entered into conversation
+with him, asking him how he was, &c. In the meanwhile the wizard cast
+his eyes upon the pretty slave, and its heart withered. This power is
+accordingly much dreaded. If, however, any one perceive the incantation
+of the wizard, and say, "Begone, you son of a brach!" he immediately
+flees, like a dog with his tail between his legs.
+
+In parts of Bornou, also, extraordinary things sometimes happen. There
+are men in those places who have the power of assuming the shapes of
+wild animals. This they do mostly in the nights. Under the form of lions
+and leopards, they go to the tents of strangers, and endeavour to lure
+them forth by calling out their proper names with a perfect human voice.
+If any one is so imprudent as to obey summons and issue forth, he is at
+once devoured.
+
+The Sfaxee pledges his word of honour that there was a female slave a
+year ago in Mourzuk who killed five of her companions with her looks. On
+this a council was held by the merchants and great people of Mourzuk, to
+know what to do with her, and the decision come to was to send her back
+to Bornou; a happy decision for the poor slave! Lucky for her that she
+was not born in some parts of Europe, with her marvellous power. Even
+our friend Gagliuffi has not escaped these superstitions of the people
+among whom he lives. On my seeing his young turkeys for the first time,
+in very considerable numbers, I exclaimed, "What a host of young turkeys
+you have got!" On this he became quite alarmed, lest I had cast a malign
+look upon them, and ejaculated a counter-exclamation, "Oh, God bless
+them!"
+
+The Sfaxee and Yusuf do not speak very favourably of some parts of
+Soudan as to morality. In some districts of Begarmi, Yusuf says, a male
+takes the first female he meets with, no matter how near the
+relationship. All the women, in fact, are in common. We must receive his
+asseverations for what they are worth, on this subject in general, and
+on the developements into which he entered. According to him, in those
+regions where scarcely any other roof is required but the heavens, there
+is no other couch spread than the earth, and no one shuns, in any act of
+life, the eyes of his neighbours.
+
+Whilst these wonders of witches and tales of African lewdness were being
+related, a thing happened which none could disbelieve, none call in
+question. This was the appearance of an immense meteor in the sky,
+shooting over half the heavens, with a slight curve, from east to west.
+It had a tail like a comet, and around its head burnt a blue light of
+excessive brilliancy. This phenomenon appeared at a quarter to eight
+o'clock in the evening. I never saw anything like it before, and perhaps
+shall never again see its equal. It might have been visible two minutes.
+We all cried out with surprise at beholding it. We had our faces towards
+the south, and the course of the meteor was across the south, but not
+very high, at about the third of the circle of the heavens. Afterwards,
+every few minutes, small meteors were seen sporting about in the same
+direction, some in a straight line and others descending.
+
+_9th._--The wind of this fine cool morning prevented a visit from
+En-Noor. That he might not be disappointed, however, I sent him his
+customary tea; and amused myself by hearing the Sfaxee discourse of that
+constant subject of conversation, the attack of the Fadeea. According to
+him, on that occasion great fear was felt by all the caravan. Most of
+our servants had formed the resolution to abandon us. There were,
+however, some honourable exceptions; amongst the rest, Saïd, the great
+mahadee, and another. Yusuf and Mohammed Tunisee proposed the plan, that
+we three, the Germans, and myself, should be mounted on maharees, and
+either conveyed back to Aisou or forward to Tintaghoda, during the
+night. Some of the Kailouees wavered, as well as the Tanelkums; but
+En-Noor (of our escort) always declared that he would never consent to
+our being given up. The next morning, two or three of the assailants
+were very bold, and came and called out in an authoritative tone, that
+we must be given up. It is curious that, in spite of all the force that
+was mustered against us, as soon as they saw that we were determined to
+resist them, they immediately began to parley. The Sfaxee is an immense
+talker, and great allowance must be made for what he says. In reality,
+we shall never be able to know the exact truth with respect to this
+affair. Dr. Overweg confesses that he was terribly alarmed as well he
+might be. For my part, I was more used to desert dangers, and slept all
+night. Dr. Barth very kindly refused to allow anybody to awaken me.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+Muslim want of Curiosity--Gossip on Meteors--A Family Broil--Rationale
+of Wife-beating--Abominable Dances--Evil Communications--Dr.
+Overweg--Kailouee Vocabulary--Windy Day--Account of Wadaï--Madame
+En-Noor--Profits of Commerce--The letter _Ghain_--Fellatah
+Language--Introduction of Islamism--Desert Routes--Trade in Agate
+Stones--A lively Patient--The Eed--A Visit _en masse_--Arrival of the
+Boat--Butchers--Exchange of Visits with the Sultan--Diet--A Shereef--A
+delicate Request--Information on Maradee--Tesaoua--Itinerant
+Schoolmasters--En-Noor's Territory in Damerghou--Unpleasant
+Communication--Amulets--The Foundation of a City in the
+Desert--En-Noor's Political Pretensions.
+
+
+_Oct. 10th._--My garrulous friend the Sfaxee has gone off this morning,
+to bring his merchandise from Tintaghoda. The little fighi came, as
+usual, to see me. I showed him the Arabic New Testament. He read a few
+sentences, and then laid the book aside. I offered it to him, but he
+refused to accept the inestimable present. He represents the feelings of
+all the Muslims of these countries. They have not even any _curiosity_
+to know the contents of the Gospel, much less the inclination to study
+or appreciate them. They remain in a state of immovable, absolute
+indifference. Even the beautiful manner in which the Arabic letters are
+printed scarcely excites their surprise. En-Noor paid me his usual
+morning visit, drank tea, and ate pickles and marmalade. We asked him
+about meteors. He recollects the fall of many. One, he says, fell upon a
+house, and terrified the inhabitants, who came running to him.
+Afterwards they dug to the depth of a man, and found nothing, for it had
+buried itself deep in the earth. According to him, a great profusion of
+meteors denotes abundance of rain and herbage: but these phenomena exert
+also a sinister influence like comets, signifying the death of some
+great personage. I have no doubt that extraordinary meteors are very
+frequent in this part of the Sahara. En-Noor was very condescending, as
+usual: no change is observable in his manners.
+
+It turned out that he had come with the intention of speaking on a very
+delicate subject, but had refrained. We learned what it was afterwards.
+Dr. Overweg was sent for in the course of the day to attend upon one of
+En-Noor's wives, who had been frightfully beaten by his highness the
+previous evening. This domestic broil formed the common topic of
+conversation in Tintalous. Every scandal-monger has got hold of one
+version of the story. From what we could gather, the great man was lying
+down quietly, when suddenly, without any apparent provocation, he
+started up, took a large stick from the fire, one of its ends still
+burning, and with this terrific weapon belaboured his wife over the
+face, striking especially at the mouth, and cutting the upper lip in
+two. The poor woman is now very ill. No cause can be discovered for this
+piece of brutality. En-Noor has, they pretend, two wives here, and one
+on his estate at Damerghou; but he has only one son and three daughters.
+No larger family has this great man, with all his wealth and slaves,
+been able to bring up.
+
+Beating a wife is so common in these countries, that, only when the act
+is attended with features of unusual atrocity, as in this case of
+En-Noor, does it excite any attention. There cannot be a question of the
+fact, that our friend the Sultan is a great despot in every point of
+view. Perhaps in no other way could he maintain any authority amongst
+these semi-barbarian Kailouees. This, nevertheless, cannot excuse the
+atrocity of beating his wife with burning fagots. Some say that the
+exciting cause of his brutality was the eternal loquacity of the woman,
+of which his highness began to be afraid. This may be true, or be only
+an excuse invented by his courtiers. Supposing, however, the cause to
+have been her _infidelity_, let us examine what can be reasonably
+expected from these African women. They are not allowed scarcely to
+believe themselves to possess souls; they have no moral motives to be
+chaste, and certainly none of family and honour, being mostly slaves.
+Then the greater part of the young girls of consequence are married to
+old men, who are worn out by their sensual habits and indulgence with
+innumerable concubines. These young women are thus left, though married,
+like so many widows, without education or religious motives, and with
+all their passions alive, to the first opportunity which presents
+itself. We know what they do, and we cannot expect anything else from
+them.
+
+We have often dancing now of evenings. Yesterday, hearing the
+tambourines and other instruments strike up, I went to the house of the
+Sfaxee to see what was going on. They were dancing again their Mourzuk
+dances before a number of delighted Kailouees, male and female; amongst
+the rest Lady En-Noor herself. The whole beauty and appropriateness of
+this exercise amongst the Moors consists, as is well known, in gross
+imitations of natural acts. No further description or comment can I
+permit myself. I have often thought that the present dance must be an
+inheritance from very ancient times. There seems to be a part of our
+nature to which it is adapted. The performances at European Operas are
+often nearly as indelicate.
+
+Evil communications corrupt good manners. One of our servants has
+learned to act the Tuarick. He quarrelled with Yusuf, and on being told
+to go away replied, "Yes. I will go; but when you get up to Damerghou I
+will bring down the people upon these Christians, and they shall be
+eaten up!"
+
+_11th._--Zangheema, En-Noor's principal slave, came early this morning
+for Dr. Overweg, that he might attend the "beaten wife." My privileged
+friend went accordingly, and visited at the same time all the women of
+the household. They received him in a very friendly manner: some of them
+proved nearly white.
+
+_12th._--This day I finished my Kailouee vocabulary, which contains
+about a thousand words. I have never yet collected so large a quantity
+of materials of any of the languages of Africa. I carefully packed up my
+vocabulary for England, and got it ready, with other matters, to send by
+the first opportunity.
+
+Dr. Overweg has again visited the belaboured wife this morning, and
+reports her to be improving. The Sultan seems now to repent what he has
+done, and is endeavouring to obtain forgiveness by kind and courteous
+behaviour.
+
+There was a great deal of wind to day, but it did not come in puffs,
+endangering our tents. I sometimes wonder, however, how the flimsy huts
+of which part of Tintalous is composed are not swept away. They are made
+of the dry stalk of that excellent herb bou rekabah, called in Kailouee
+_afada_.
+
+_13th._--No news stirring to-day; nothing said of razzias; so much the
+better. We are living very quietly here, and the climate agrees with me
+extremely well. Some of our people, however, are sick.
+
+_14th._--The mornings continue cold; 65° outside the tent, and a few
+degrees higher inside. This fresh weather, no doubt, accounts for my
+good health.
+
+According to a Tibboo merchant now here, and going with our caravan, the
+people of Wadaï would receive a Christian well, and allow him to visit
+their country. He represents Wadaï as a very rocky region, like Aheer,
+with two large rivers in it running from south to north--not season
+streams, but continual. He says that the people are all blacks, and a
+very tall race. They have a language of their own, which is difficult to
+learn. Warrah is the capital. The natives drink a great deal of _bouza_,
+and are nearly always intoxicated. Such is a summary account of Wadaï
+from the mouth of a Tibboo geographer.
+
+This morning, Madame En-Noor sent me by Zangheema a pair of pewter
+earrings, in exchange for some rings. It is extremely difficult to make
+a good bargain with these people. With respect to our merchandise, it
+all sells lower here than we paid for it at Mourzuk. The profits come
+from the purchase of slaves. A burnouse of forty mahboubs will sell in
+Soudan for little more than its cost, if dollars or money is to be
+given; but if slaves are taken in exchange, three slaves, perhaps, may
+be obtained, which, in Tripoli, may be sold at forty or fifty dollars
+each. Hence the profit of the Soudan commerce. The article which yields
+the greatest profit is loaf sugar, which, costing half a dollar in
+Mourzuk, is said to sell for a full dollar in Bornou. To be sure there
+is all the risk and the heavy freight of such an article, especially if
+conveyed up during the rainy season.
+
+I wrote yesterday a despatch to Government, requesting letters of
+recommendation to be sent up to me in Kordofan, pointing out the route
+of Egypt as the probable one by which I shall return to the
+Mediterranean. I had a long dispute with Overweg about the letter
+_ghain_, which he persists in pronouncing like a strong _k_. Yusuf was
+called in, and declared that the _ghain_ was the letter which
+distinguished Arabic from all other languages. In Kailouee Tuarick there
+is no _kaf_ or _ghain_. These Berber dialects have, however, the hard
+_g_ in a thousand words, and have also the _k_ in a great number of
+cases, but the hard _g_ and the _t_ are the consonants most frequently
+occurring. The Haussa has also the _g_ hard, as in _măgăree_,
+"good;" and a great number of words with the sound _tsh_, as _doutshee_,
+a stone or mountain.
+
+The Fellatah language is said to resemble the Kailouee; in other words,
+to be a Berber dialect. If this be the case, the Fellatah people are
+probably of Berber extraction, and not Arab, as they are vulgarly
+supposed to be. This is a question requiring still further
+investigation. Others, again, say that the Fellatah language is quite
+different from the Tuarick. Overweg thinks Islamism was introduced into
+Bornou by the Shoua Arabs, who are found in Bornou in great numbers. The
+Fellatah, he thinks, received Islamism by way of Timbuctoo, from Moors
+and Arabs trading to that city from Morocco. There is considerable
+probability in both these opinions.
+
+_15th._--Four or five days after the approaching Eed, or festival, half
+the people of Tintalous will go for salt, and the other half prepare for
+their annual journey to Soudan with En-Noor.
+
+The inhabitants of Damerghou are reported to be half "_Kohlan_," blacks,
+and half Kailouees. It is the Kailouees in the neighbourhood of
+Damerghou who infest the borders and routes of Bornou. En-Noor is now
+very quiet, and there is a chance that he will not come down upon me for
+more money.
+
+According to the Fezzanees, Tuat is thirty days from Aisou and
+thirty-three from Taghajeet (short days). Ghât is forty short and thirty
+long days from Tintalous or Asoudee. Bilma is fourteen long and seven
+short days from Tintalous or Asoudee. There is no direct route from this
+(Tintalous) to Timbuctoo; from Sakkatou there is, however, a short route
+to Timbuctoo, and it is said to be a safe one. The number of days here
+mentioned are merely general numbers; they vary according to the good
+state of the camels, or the disposition of the people, or certain
+accidents on the road.
+
+The evening of the feast of the "Descent of the Koran from Heaven," all
+good Muslims ought to sit up all night to read the Koran, through and
+through again.
+
+There is a curious commerce of yămăneé, or agate stones, in
+Soudan. These yămăneé are originally brought from the eastern
+coast of Africa, from and near Mombas (Mozambique), where they pass as
+money, like the cowries. From Mombas they are carried, by the Muscat
+traders, to Yamen, and thence to Mekka; in which place they are blessed,
+and rendered doubly precious. From Mekka they are brought to Egypt, and
+from Egypt to Mourzuk; from which point they are distributed all over
+this part of Africa, and the souk of Kanou is stocked with them. They
+are much esteemed by all classes of the inhabitants of the interior of
+Africa, and are worn equally by the men and women.
+
+In this commerce we see the round-about-way in which some articles are
+conveyed for sale. If there were a road from Mombas direct to Bornou,
+this agate would be cheap enough. But then, perhaps, it would not be
+esteemed or valued at half its present cost. It would not be blessed at
+Mekka, and so lose all its talismanic and mysterious power. The name is
+derived from Yaman, evidently from the first country in Arabia, to which
+they were brought originally from Africa.
+
+According to Overweg, Madame En-Noor is still very unwell with her lip.
+It is cut right across under her nose, penetrating to the gums; she is,
+nevertheless, very lively, and is always pestering Overweg to read the
+fatah with, or marry a young girl, one of her relations. She endeavours
+to warm my worthy friend to comply with her match-making wishes by
+luxurious descriptions of the beauties of the proffered bride.
+
+As soon as the people hear I have a wife in Tripoli, they begin to ask
+how many children I have got. On receiving for answer, "None," they are
+greatly astonished, and ask me the reason of so strange a matrimonial
+phenomenon.
+
+This evening another fine meteor appeared in the south-east. Its head
+was like a blazing star, and it left behind it a train of sparkling
+light and flame. There were also numbers of smaller meteors.
+
+_16th._--The morning of the Eed. According to the Fezzanees, prayers are
+soon ended; because, they say, "these Kailouees know nothing of their
+religion."
+
+The Fezzanees asked me to hoist the British flag; to which I replied,
+"No; the flag belongs to the Queen, but I will give you a little powder
+for your matchlocks." All these Mahommedan feasts are celebrated on the
+northern coast of Africa by the discharge of gunpowder.
+
+No certain information can be obtained of the route from Zinder to
+Sakkatou, in this place. The people only say the present Sultan is not
+so strong as was his father; thereby intimating that the routes are not
+so secure as formerly.
+
+It is usual for the inhabitants of Tintalous to visit those of Asarara
+on the morning of the present feast. About sixty men, natives of this
+place, accompanied by a dozen Moors from Tripoli and Mourzuk, went,
+accordingly, to Asarara this morning. Then a number of the people of
+Asarara returned with them. Yusuf remarked, with some surprise, that
+even the women went out to pray, about forty in number. So that it would
+seem the Kailouees educate their women in religion more than the Muslims
+of the coast.
+
+The most interesting event to us, however, this morning, was the arrival
+of the boat from Seloufeeat. Our servants were very quick in their
+return. They came all night, to avoid any further attempts to carry off
+the camels. They were all alone. I welcomed the return of the boat as I
+would that of an old friend.
+
+There was no firing this evening, as was expected, En-Noor being very
+unwell-suffering rheumatism and fever.
+
+The most agreeable sight in all these Mahommedan feasts is to see all
+the people dressed out in their finery. The merchants have appeared in
+splendid burnouses, all more or less in good humour. The slaughtering of
+the sheep to-day was the dirtiest part of the business. All here on such
+occasions play the part of butchers-men, women, and children; and all
+attack, stab, skin, and maul the poor animals, in a way frightful to
+behold. The environs of the town were turned into dirty
+slaughter-houses.
+
+_17th._--I have determined to purchase no more things from the Sfaxee at
+present. He makes me pay double price. It will be better to wait and see
+what can be done at Zinder. An infidel traveller, who is known to be in
+possession of any property, is sure in these countries to be looked upon
+as a milch-cow. Does not "the book," according to the vulgar opinion,
+authorise the faithful to take our lives? "Our purses are more lawful."
+
+The festival being over, I went to pay my respects to Sultan En-Noor. He
+is much better in health than yesterday, but has still a bad cold, and
+continues to blow his nose and wipe it--pardon the _naïve_
+statement--with the sole of one of his sandals! The action struck me as
+rather uncleanly and undignified in a prince; but Kailouees are not
+punctilious.
+
+Mr. Gagliuffi had mentioned to me that he had given assistance to some
+shepherds who were begging their way to Soudan. One of these poor
+fellows had come to see the Sultan. He seemed, indeed, miserably poor,
+but tried to hide the fact, saying to them and Yusuf: "I have news for
+you; now I am your friend, as I was a friend to the Consul in Mourzuk."
+He was quite a young man, and excited my compassion.
+
+In the afternoon I received a visit from En-Noor, with a whole train of
+his people. The Shereef was absent. The Sultan came especially to see
+the boat, the pieces of which were put together that he might know its
+shape and size. Yusuf then drew for him a ship with all sails set, on a
+piece of paper. It was very well done; and excited the applause of my
+visitors. I treated them, as usual, with pickles, marmalade, and tea.
+Among other things I showed En-Noor the broad arrow, or government mark,
+on many of our things; as the guns, and pistols, tent, bags, and
+biscuits, which greatly surprised him.
+
+The Sheikh was in good spirits, and was pleased with his visit. I sent
+him during the day a piece of dark blue cotton print for a pillowcase.
+This little present delighted him much. I am much hampered with the
+"princesses," who first sent to buy sugar, and then to beg, forgetting
+to buy.
+
+We have a Tuat Tuarick changing camels for slaves now in Tintalous. This
+man belongs to the tribe called Sgomara, if I have caught the name
+correctly.
+
+_18th._--I rose early, having had a bad headache during the night
+through eating meat in the middle of the day. Whatever is eaten in the
+middle of the day must be taken very sparingly. I believe the greater
+part of the diseases with which foreigners in these countries are
+afflicted arise from want of sufficient attention to diet. We must take
+great care of our health just as we are entering Soudan. The weather is
+still cool, especially in the morning. The prevailing wind during these
+last twenty days has been E.N.E., which is very refreshing. The Moorish
+merchants pretend that in Soudan it is now very cold.
+
+I received a visit from the young Shereef, whose conversation smacked a
+good deal of a disagreeable curiosity respecting my movements and
+intentions in Central Africa. I therefore gave him a very ordinary and
+cool welcome. This fellow has been here some time, and never offered to
+pay us a visit before. En-Noor has been feeding him during his stay. He
+displayed a good deal of shrewdness, and is well acquainted with the
+Christians of the Mediterranean. He is going to visit his brother in
+Zinder, and then returns to Tripoli by the way of Bornou and Mourzuk.
+Like all these shereefs, or marabouts, he pretended that had he been
+with us, or had we travelled with him from Mourzuk to Tintalous, no one
+would have dared to molest us; an assertion wholly false, for the
+Tuaricks care little for marabouts when they are bent on plunder.
+
+A young woman has just arrived from a distant village, with the express
+object of procuring from the Taleb (Overweg) a medicine to produce
+abortion: she says she has been gadding, "barra" (out of her mother's
+house), and is frightened lest she should get a good beating. On
+Overweg's refusing to give her any such medicine she burst out into a
+pathetic lamentation, and talked loudly of what her parent would do to
+her. Young ladies often think of their mothers a little too late under
+these circumstances.
+
+A slave of the Sultan of Aghadez arrived this morning, in six days from
+the capital, to inquire after the health of En-Noor. He brings no
+particular news, but says he saw Barth at Aghadez.
+
+"Man is to man the surest, deadliest foe," has been quoted from the poet
+as most applicable to the moral and social state of Africa. It may truly
+be said to be our case, for hitherto we have suffered little in this
+town except from men. Looking also around us, the people suffer less
+from the arid country which they inhabit than from the violence which
+they inflict one upon another.
+
+I learned from Yusuf yesterday evening, that for every dollar I take
+from the Sfaxee, if I pay in Mourzuk, I must give two. I was greatly
+afflicted at this positive declaration, but scarcely believe it; if it,
+however, prove to be the case, I must by all means find money in Soudan.
+It will be a hard fight, indeed, to keep down the expenses of this
+expedition; however, every effort must be employed to effect this
+desirable object.
+
+Mărādee, I learn, is three days west from Tesaoua; and this latter
+place is two from Zinder. There is another village, called Gazawa, one
+day south of Tesaoua. The inhabitants of these places are half
+Mahommedans and half pagans; the latter do not offer human sacrifices;
+their religious rites consist principally in worshipping trees, to which
+they sacrifice at certain seasons. The Fellatahs are always at war with
+the people of Mărādee, but Gouber is at peace with Sakkatou. In
+Mărādee there is one large stone-and-mud house for the Sultan; all
+the rest of the houses are bell-shaped huts. The place has a numerous
+population. Tesaoua is also independent and self-governed, as are most
+of the places hereabouts.
+
+I had a visit from two itinerant schoolmasters, natives of Bornou. From
+these I learned that there does exist a little education amongst the
+Kailouees. There is a village near called Amurgeen, three hours from
+Tintalous, where children are sent from all the places around, so that
+it forms a species of college or university. It is to this college that
+En-Noor sends his sons and grandsons. These itinerant pedagogues are
+negroes; and it is certainly a curious circumstance that from Central
+Africa instruction should migrate northwards. But the Kailouees have
+little pride in this respect; although boasting of the name of Tuaricks,
+and accounting themselves _white_ people, or allied with the whites,
+they do not scruple to receive education from the negroes of Bornou,
+whilst certainly it would be very easy to have Kailouee schoolmasters.
+
+I heard from my friend Tibbaou that En-Noor's territory in Tesaoua is
+simply a village at some distance from the medeeneh, or city, where
+there is a native and independent sultan of some power. His territory in
+Damerghou is also a mere village. Nevertheless, the possession of these
+places extends the political influence of the Kailouees in Soudan. The
+neighbourhood of Damerghou, especially the western side, seems
+celebrated for a tribe, or factions of tribes, consisting of bad
+Tuaricks. This race is evidently spreading in Soudan; there are great
+numbers in Gouber and the countries near.
+
+I purchased from the itinerant pedagogues of Bornou two of their
+ink-bottles, which are made of small calabashes. They wrote for me some
+specimens of their penmanship, a charm, _fatah_, or first chapter of the
+Koran. They wrote and formed their letters sideways, as some lawyers'
+clerks do in England.
+
+Dambaba Makersee took the liberty of informing me to-day, as if I did
+not know it before, that all the things of us Christians were considered
+by the Kailouees generally as common property, and that whoever could
+lay hold of any ought to do so without qualm or scruple; but, he added,
+when you arrive in Zinder, all will be changed. Let us hope so,
+_Inshallah_!
+
+Strings of charms are worn by the men occasionally under the arm, or
+suspended over the shoulders, as well as round the neck. The charm or
+armlet of the Moors and Tuaricks corresponds with the _Fetish_ of the
+ancient Kohlan, people of Soudan, and of the present negro races on the
+western coast.
+
+I finished the statistics of the towns and villages of Asben--after all,
+a very imperfect affair. Nevertheless, it is the best which I could make
+from my materials.
+
+En-Noor paid me a visit in the morning, and stopped gossiping two hours.
+From him I learnt that the Fellatah language has no relation to the
+Arabic or Tuarick, but is quite a language peculiar in itself. He also
+informed us that the Gouberites were still at war with the Fellatahs of
+Sakkatou; that they were united with the people of Maradee, ancient
+Kohlans like themselves, and that this united force had been lately
+gaining their lost ground against the new Muslim powers in Soudan.
+En-Noor seems to favour the re-establishment of these people against the
+Fellatahs. The latter he naturally hates, on account of their attempts
+on the independence of the Kailouees, and their perpetual intrigues at
+Aghadez.
+
+With regard to Tesaoua, En-Noor pretends that he founded this city. His
+statement is singularly suggestive and picturesque in its simplicity. He
+says that he met, on the spot where Tesaoua now stands, a forlorn man,
+with only two slaves.
+
+"What are you doing?" he said to the man.
+
+"Nothing," the man replied. "What can I do, naked as I am, with myself
+and two slaves?"
+
+"Oh!" rejoined En-Noor; "stop a minute, and I will bring you a multitude
+of people, and we together will make a large city." En-Noor kept his
+word, and brought a multitude of Kailouees, Kohlans, and their slaves.
+Now Tesaoua is a mighty city, and En-Noor has got a small town of his
+own near it, mostly peopled by his dependants. Such is the foundation of
+many African cities; these places springing up as mushrooms, and
+disappearing as soon.
+
+En-Noor also pretends, that through his father he is heir to the thrones
+of the ancient Kohlans, about Kashna, Gouber, and Maradee, and that he
+ought to come into possession after the death of the present occupants.
+This, I should think, is incorrect; but his highness has undoubtedly
+great political influence in those countries. We learn that several of
+the men of Tintalous have wives and families in Damerghou and Tesaoua,
+but none of them have large families--only one or two children.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+News from Barth--Camels restored--Expensive Journey--Proposed Migration
+of Males--Supply of Slaves, whence--A new Well--Pagans and
+Christians--Tibboo Manners--The great Gong--When is a Tibboo
+hungry?--Hunger-belt--Queen of England in the Sahara--The Shanbah--A
+hasty Marriage--Saïd's new Wife--Wild Cauliflowers--Tolerance of the
+Kailouees--Men go to fetch Salt from Bilma--Approach of Dr.
+Barth--Lion's Mouth--Tibboos and Kailouees--Mysteries of
+Tintalous--Fewness of Men in Aheer--Trees preserved in the
+Valley--Bright Stars--Method of Salutation--Purposed Stars--Kailouee
+Character--Champagne at Tintalous--The Wells.
+
+
+_Oct. 22d._--A letter was received this morning from Dr. Barth. It
+appears that the treaty will not be signed, nor even presented to the
+Sultan. En-Noor paid me a visit, as usual, this morning. I presented to
+his highness some old boxes, with which he ordered a door to be made for
+his palace. His politeness does not cease, and the graciousness with
+which he receives my presents is really remarkable.
+
+The man sent after our camels brought back my poor white maharee, and
+demanded ten dollars (as good as twenty to me) for his trouble. I
+refused to give them, preferring to let him have the camel, which is
+hardly worth ten dollars. This manner of recovering our lost or stolen
+camels amounts to buying them over again. But it has been our misfortune
+all along, that our friends, and those who profess to be such, and all
+who attempt to aid us--every one of them, have profited by our losses,
+and the disasters which have befallen us. This dispute has been referred
+to En-Noor, and they have accepted five dollars, which I offered them.
+
+I this day made out the statement of the principal items of expenditure
+which the expedition has incurred from Mourzuk to Tintalous, including
+the escort to Zinder. It amounts to the enormous sum of three thousand
+mahboubs, or about six hundred pounds sterling!! If we do not proceed
+better than this on the future part of the journey, the expedition will
+at any rate be bankrupt and ruined for want of funds.
+
+_23d._--Yusuf and I brought before Overweg this morning the necessity of
+his assisting in relieving the Government from the double payment of the
+sums advanced by the Sfaxee. He agreed that it was highly important to
+save this money, and promised to place his goods at my disposal for sale
+in Soudan.
+
+On the departure of the caravan for Zinder and Kanou every male
+inhabitant will leave Tintalous, some starting with it and others going
+for salt, leaving only the women and children behind. This is considered
+by the Moors as preferable to leaving a few men behind, because these
+few would occasion quarrels amongst the women, and, besides, excite the
+jealousy of the absent husbands.
+
+Most of the men who go with us to Damerghou and forward to Tesaoua will
+find another wife and family in both these places. This is a regular
+emigration of males, not the accidental departure of fathers and
+husbands. These gentlemen pass half the year in Soudan and half in
+Aheer. The system does not appear to be advantageous to the increase of
+population: the wives of these birds of passage hardly bear two children
+a-piece. Indeed there are very few children in Tintalous. We have not
+yet sufficient data or experience for a conclusion on this part of
+statistics; but, up to the present, all that we have seen in Africa
+during this journey exhibits it as singularly miserable and destitute of
+population. We can hear of no man, not even a sultan with his fifty
+female slaves, having more than four or five children. As for the poor,
+one or two are all that they can bring up.
+
+Whence, then, comes the supply of slaves? So far as this part of Africa
+is concerned I may observe, in reply, that the annual number of slaves
+brought is exceedingly limited, amounting only to a few thousands. When
+we get nearer the western coast, we shall probably be able to account
+for the supplies of slaves which are transported across the Atlantic.
+
+This afternoon a well was commenced near our tents. The digging of a
+well is an important matter; his highness En-Noor, therefore, vouchsafed
+his presence. A number of the excavators came to me to beg for sugar. I
+brought out a piece of white loaf sugar, and broke it into thirty pieces
+or so; then ordered one of them to divide it fairly amongst themselves:
+but this was impossible. Anything like fairness amongst the Kailouees,
+all of whom are addicted to thieving (a habit acquired from Soudan), was
+out of the question. As soon as I rose from the ground, after breaking
+the sugar on a leathern apron, there was a general rush upon it, and
+some got a great deal and others none. Was not this a fine miniature
+picture of mankind?
+
+_24th._--En-Noor paid me a very early visit, and drank coffee. I heard
+that a courier to Mourzuk would cost forty dollars. I begin to learn a
+little Soudanese; there are some beautiful soft words in it. Yusuf says
+there is no name for God in this language; but his statement requires
+further examination.
+
+From what we learn respecting Barth's reception at Aghadez, it would
+appear that the people were disposed to look upon him with the same
+complacency as they are wont to regard the pagans, or En-sara as they
+call them, of Gouber and Maradee. Indeed, the Tanelkums and Kailouees
+consider that we shall be well received by our brethren, the pagans of
+Soudan.
+
+Here is a most extraordinary trait of the barbarity of the Tibboos. It
+often happens that they are out foraging for twenty days without finding
+anything to eat. If they light upon the bones of a dead camel, they take
+them and pound them to dust; this done, they bleed their own living
+camels (maharees) from the eye, and of the blood and powdered bones they
+make a paste, which they eat! This is somewhat analogous to what Bruce
+relates of the Abyssinians cutting out beefsteaks from the rump of a
+live bullock. The Tibboos possess the finest maharees; and the breed in
+the rest of the Sahara is always being improved or kept up by a constant
+supply from their country.
+
+I continue to supply his highness En-Noor with either tea or coffee
+every day. I sent him some early this morning. He is a greedy old dog,
+and will not buy a loaf of sugar because I will not give it him at the
+price of Mourzuk, and thus lose the freight. I hold out, and we have
+sold him none for the present.
+
+Overweg is making a small commercial lexicon of the things brought to
+the market of Kanou: a most excellent idea. I myself intend, if I go to
+Kanou, to make a list of all the things I find in the Souk, with some
+account of their produce and mode of importation into that mart.
+
+The great gong sounded throughout the village this afternoon, to give
+note of preparation to all the people, that every one of the males must
+be ready to leave this place in the course of three or four days. The
+Sheikh says he is determined to leave in three days, whether the people
+come from Aghadez or not. Yusuf laid before En-Noor this evening the
+necessity of our sending a courier to Mourzuk, stating that we had
+nothing left. His highness pitied our case, and said he would look about
+for a courier; observing, "The Consul has need of much money and many
+presents in Soudan." He said, also, that he would recommend us to go to
+Bornou.
+
+_25th._--The days are now pretty hot, and the nights correspondingly
+cool. We have a good deal of wind. I wrote a letter to Drs. Overweg and
+Barth jointly, calling upon them to assist me in case the Sfaxee would
+not wait for his money until the return of the courier. Dr. Overweg
+consents. I wrote out the Tuarick alphabet.
+
+The account of the Tibboos pounding the camels' bones and bleeding their
+animals to make paste, is confirmed by the Gatronee of the Germans.[4]
+He says, moreover, that this is the way in which they proceed. Every
+Tibboo must fast three days before he thinks about eating. If on the
+fourth day he do not arrive at the _belad_, or country, he then takes
+his left sandal from his foot, and stews or soddens it, making something
+of a soup. These sandals being leather, or untanned hide, it is,
+perhaps, not impossible to make of them a palatable soup! If on the
+fifth day he find no village, he then devours the sandal of his right
+foot. After this, still not finding a village, he collects bleached
+camels' bones and bleeds his camel as before mentioned.
+
+  [4] People are called here by the nation, and even town, to
+      which they belong, or in which they were born, as sometimes
+      in Europe.
+
+A Tibboo always has a girdle with seven knots, and when travelling hard
+takes in, as the sailors would say, a reef every day; if after seven
+days he find nothing to eat, he is considered hungry and unfortunate.
+The three Tuaricks who followed us from the well of Aisou declared that
+they had had nothing to eat for fifteen days; and there cannot be a
+doubt of the fact, that both the Tibboos and the Tuaricks can, on a
+pinch, remain without food for a considerable time--say ten or twelve
+days.
+
+A Tuatee, who knows Algiers well, arrived here this afternoon, and is
+going with us to Zinder. He brings an extraordinary report about the
+copy of the treaty which I left with Haj Ahmed at Ghât. He says he heard
+it read, and from it learned that "the Queen of England is now in
+Tripoli, and wishes to come and live in Ghât, and has offered to buy
+half Ghât." Such is the nature of Saharan reports.
+
+More authentic intelligence arrived to-day by a courier, who made the
+journey from Ghât to Seloufeeat in fourteen days--sufficiently quick.
+This courier brings a warning from Khanouhen to the caravans now
+proceeding to Ghât, not to come in twos or threes, as they were wont,
+but to come altogether, as he fears reprisals from the Shanbah and the
+Haghar.
+
+The history of the thing is this:--A tribe of Tuaricks has always acted
+as the guides of the Shanbah in their foraging parties--on the Tuarick
+territory, for example--always pointing out to them the camels of the
+people of Ghât. Khanouhen has chastised this treacherous tribe,
+destroying a great many of them; but the Shanbah and Haghar not choosing
+to desert their old friends, have determined to take vengeance upon the
+Ghât Tuaricks. It is this revenge which Khanouhen fears. He anticipates
+a combined attack on the caravans. The wonder is how these routes are
+kept open at all, when these distant tribes, who have no interest in the
+commerce that moves along them, are notorious for their predatory
+feelings and education. It is now said that the Fadeea, our friends on
+the frontier, are in league with the Shanbah against the Ghât Tuaricks.
+
+En-Noor, it appears, had sent his son to salute the new Sultan of
+Aghadez, and to assist in establishing or placing him on his throne. He
+got as far as Asoudee, when he fell in love with a pretty woman of the
+town, and at once married her, proceeding no farther on his mission.
+Yesterday evening a man arrived mounted on a maharee, bringing with him
+all the finery of the bride, which he exhibited to the people, riding
+about the town! All were greatly astonished at the splendour of the
+bride's dowry. Are not these fit materials for an Arabian Night's
+entertainment? My servant, Saïd, also married the other evening, but not
+so romantically; taking up with the divorced wife of another freed
+black. I heard nothing of it until all was over. The parties guessed
+rightly that I should take no interest in the matter, or rather
+disapprove of it, as the fellow has abandoned his own and natural wife.
+This divorced negress, who has at last found a master, has gone the
+round of all the tents since she has parted from her former husband, and
+is a little intriguing wretch. The Sfaxee and Yusuf countenanced the
+affair, but kept it quite unknown to me. They, however, fetched Overweg,
+and presented him with a portion of the marriage-supper--bazeen. I felt
+much disgusted on hearing of the affair. The old wife is a native of
+Kanemboo, and is going thither. She will, of course, gladly take leave
+of her husband and this young wife and rival. Marriage is an excessively
+loose tie here, at any rate amongst the poor. The rich pretend to
+respect marriage.
+
+We have all done little in clearing up difficulties, or obtaining
+correct information of the Tuaricks of the Sahara. No good informants
+are to be found. From the Sheikhs of Ghât it is quite impossible to
+learn anything. We hope to get some information from a Tanelkum now
+going with us. Many tribes have been mentioned, casually; but the
+principal are--the three great tribes of Ghât, those to which Khanouhen,
+Shafou, Jabour, and Hateetah belong--a tribe in Janet--the Haghar of
+Ghamama--the Isokamara, located on the Tuat route from Aisou--the
+Tanelkums of Fezaan--the Maraga, a breed produced from the slaves of the
+Haghar and the Sorgou of Timbuctoo.
+
+_26th._--The sky is now frequently cloudy, but no rain falls. The valley
+of Tintalous is looking fresh, on account of the great quantity of wild
+cauliflower overspreading its surface, called by the Arabs _liftee_.
+This word _liftee_, is evidently derived from _lift_, "turnip." The
+vegetable grows in lines and circles, determined apparently by the
+action of the water, which deposits the seeds. No use is made of this
+wild cabbage; it is very bitter, and no animals even eat it.
+
+En-Noor paid me a visit this morning before I was up; he drank some
+coffee, and went off to see his camels. The Tanelkums were quite wrong
+in their surmisings about En-Noor and his religious fanaticism. He has
+shown less fanaticism than any prince with whom we have had yet anything
+to do during the present journey. All the Kailouees of Tintalous are
+equally tolerant. We have now three quasi-princes, or sons of sultans,
+in Tintalous, besides the son of En-Noor. We have Mousa Waled Haj-Ali,
+who takes our despatches to Mourzuk, with Yusuf my interpreter, and a
+Tibboo, the son of the Sultan of Kouïvar. As we proceed onwards, princes
+and sons of princes will thicken upon us.
+
+_27th._--I packed up and sent off all my despatches to Mourzuk, together
+with a few trifling things for my poor wife, by the hand of Mousa Waled
+Haj-Ali, the virtual Sheikh of the Tanelkums.
+
+_28th._--All the male inhabitants, with the exception of five or six,
+have gone off this morning to fetch salt from Bilma. They return here in
+the course of a month, and the greater part of the salt is transported
+from hence to Soudan by the next caravan. We have heard of our friends
+at Aghadez. They are expected here in a few days. The new Sultan of
+Aghadez is said--but there is little accuracy in these desert
+reports--to have gone on an expedition west, to settle some differences
+between some tribes in arms against one another. The people also say
+that the new Sultan is "hungry," and is glad of such an opportunity to
+get "something to eat." This is the way in which they would describe a
+Chancellor of the Exchequer planning a new tax.
+
+Some say the object of the razzia is to chastise the Fadeea for
+attacking us; but still the main object is to fill the Sultan's "own
+hungry belly." Such are Asbenouee politics.
+
+_Bakin-Zakee_, the Soudanese name of the Kailouee green cap, I know here
+means the "_lion's mouth_." This is the phrase with which I always
+salute Zangheema, En-Noor's chief slave; but the terms are much more
+appropriate for his master, as intimating his avaricious, nay voracious,
+disposition. Zangheema, however, might be called "Kărĕn Zākee,"
+the jackal of the lion, or "the lion's provider," so anxious is he to
+minister to the voracious appetite of his lord.
+
+We have received the news that Dr. Barth is near. He is expected
+to-morrow evening, or early next day.
+
+_29th._--En-Noor paid me a visit at sunset to-day, and talked of how
+many children people had in this country. His highness said he knew a
+sultan in Soudan who had seven hundred children.
+
+_30th._--The Gatronee of the Germans confirms the report of the
+circumstance, that, when the Kailouees go to the Tibboos to trade for
+salt, all the male Tibboos run away, leaving all the business in the
+hands of the females; which latter, besides trading in salt with the
+Kailouees, make a good mercantile speculation with their charms. Each
+woman, in fact, has her Kailouee husband or lover, during the carrying
+on of this singular commerce. If the traders catch a single Tibboo man
+staying behind, they at once murder him, with the most marked
+approbation of the Tibboo women. Such is the state of connubial fidelity
+in this part of the Sahara.
+
+The Tibboos have been very greatly neglected by persons writing on
+Africa, chiefly on account of the slighting, summary way in which they
+are spoken of by the members of the former English expedition to Bornou.
+They are, however, divided into a great number of tribes, are spread
+over a considerable extent of country, and are partly the guardians of
+the Bornou route. We must pay them some attention when they come under
+our observation.
+
+There is a man come from Dr. Barth and his party. They are expected in
+the course of forty-eight hours. En-Noor is very angry that they do not
+mend their pace. We are all ready to start. An immense caravan is
+waiting for their arrival.
+
+_31st._--The people begin to pester me to marry another wife in
+Soudan,--one very young and with large breasts is the kind of article
+they recommend.
+
+The mysteries of Tintalous are celebrated at the well in the evening,
+under the bright, glowing light of Venus, which star is now seen a
+couple of hours above the horizon after sunset. On the margin of the
+well, which is on the other side of the wady, at the distance of a
+quarter of a mile, the damsels of Tintalous regularly meet their lovers,
+and spend with them half an hour of sweet communion. Some even retire to
+the shade of a large-spreading tholukh near, or behind blocks of rock
+rising on the edge of the valley, and indulge in lawful or unlawful
+embraces. The strangers who come here, the Moors of Tripoli and Fezzan,
+are freely initiated into these mysteries.
+
+I am told by our servants, who have been round to all the villages or
+towns in the neighbourhood of Tintalous for the purchase of ghaseb, that
+these places, small or large, are none of them equal to Tintalous,
+although the houses are much the same--bell-shaped huts, and the people
+are of the same character. What has greatly astonished our servants is
+the fewness of the men; indeed, in some villages they saw no other
+persons but women and children, and scarcely any children. What is the
+cause of this? It would seem that the men are consumed by the women.
+These women bear few children, and perhaps this may in part account for,
+if it be not produced by, their excessive licentiousness. Yet the men
+are on the wing a great part of the year. The Kailouees, however,
+wherever they go, have their women at hand, and during a journey many of
+them take two or three female slaves. How is this superabundant supply
+of the softer sex kept up? If I am noticing a mere temporary phenomenon,
+the destruction of men in the razzias may account for the disproportion.
+Besides, the Kailouees are always imparting fresh slaves into their
+country.
+
+The poor people of Tintalous are fed chiefly on the pounded grains of
+the herb _bou rekaba_. It is a real Asbenouee dish. Overweg made a
+supper of it one evening. I tasted it, and find it has a very strong
+flavour of herbs; that is to say, what is commonly imagined to be the
+flavour of herbs in general. The people now go a long way for wood. The
+tholukh-trees of the valley are not allowed to be cut down; they are
+always preserved as a resource for the time of drought and dearth, when
+the flocks can find no herbage in the valley. The boughs are at such
+junctures lopped off, and the flocks are fed on the leaves. Thus I have
+seen the goats and sheep fed on the tholukh-leaves on the plains of
+Mourzuk, as well as near this place. Another reason may induce En-Noor
+to save the tholukh-trees,--that there may be a perpetual shade and
+verdure in the valley of Tintalous. There are many finer valleys than
+this in Asben, and were the trees not preserved, it would be a very
+barren, unlively spot.
+
+This evening, two hours after sunset, Venus exhibited her most splendid
+phasis: the west, where she was setting, about half-an-hour before she
+disappeared, was lit up as if it was moonlight. On concealing the
+planet, the effect produced was that of the setting of the moon. Every
+star was eclipsed in the western circle of the heavens, I never saw
+anything before equal to this. I could here fully realise the words of
+Scripture, that the stars were made also "to give light upon the earth."
+
+The manner of saluting and shaking hands amongst the Kailouees deserves
+notice: they first hold up the right hand with the palm outspread, like
+the Tuaricks of Ghât. Afterwards, when more companionable and familiar,
+they take hold of hands, and press them lightly some five or six times
+or more, if great friends, and conclude this pressing of the hand with a
+sort of jerk, drawing quickly off each other's hand. In taking hold of
+the hand of your friend, you fit your thumb in the circle formed by his
+thumb and fingers, and every time you press his hand, and he presses
+yours, you separate the hands from each other.[5]
+
+  [5] This mode of shaking hands is common among the Fellâhs of
+      Egypt.--ED.
+
+_Nov. 1st._--The month has set in with wind,--not gusts, but steady
+wind, continually blowing from E.N.E. It is stated positively that we
+leave here to-morrow morning, whether the people return or not from
+Aghadez. I register all reports as I hear them, though perfectly aware
+that we have not been yet quite let into the secret of the singular
+migration in which we are about to bear a part. The greater number of
+the men of Tintalous have gone to Bilma in search of salt; and I
+originally understood that the great annual caravan was for the
+transport of this necessary article. Perhaps En-Noor means to go slowly
+on, just to keep us in good humour. Our intercourse with the Kailouees
+has taught us to consider them a very mild, companionable race. Often
+indeed, like children, I wonder what the Tibboos can see in them to make
+them so desperately afraid, for I am told ten Kailouees will frighten
+away fifty Tibboos of Bilma. But the Tibboos of Tibesty are considered a
+braver race. It is worthy of remark, that these cowardly Tibboos have a
+bad character, and, like most cowards, are very treacherous.
+
+I determined not to carry the little box in which the two bottles of
+champagne were packed any further; so I, Overweg, Yusuf, and the
+servants, set to work and drank a bottle of it, to the toast, "that we
+might have better luck higher up than all have hitherto experienced."
+The other bottle I have stowed away in reserve for the Lake Tchad, to
+drink the health of Her Majesty when we launch the boat, if we are
+fortunate enough to arrive there.
+
+I went to the wells to see the people get water this morning. A number
+of little children came,--some naked, and others with small pieces of
+leather round their loins: they all wore very large necklaces of charms
+sown up in leather bags.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+Dr. Barth's Journey to Aghadez--Description of the
+Route--Tiggedah--Luxuriant Scenery of Asadah--Plain of Tarist--Beautiful
+Valley--Buddeh--Small Caravan--Aghadez--its Inhabitants--their
+Occupation--The great Koku, or Sultan--Asbenouee Revolutions--Election
+of a Prince--Interview--Ceremony of Investiture--Razzia--Intricate
+Political System--Account of Aghadez--Mosque--Environs--Women--Tribes
+of Asben--The Targhee Family--Population of the Ghât Districts--of
+Aheer--The Oulimad and Tanelkums--Tribe of
+Janet--Haghar--Sagamaram--Maghatah--Extent of Aheer--Connexion
+with the Black Countries--Mechanism of Society in
+Aheer--Chieftains--Tax-gathering--Food of the
+Kailouees--Maharees--Amusements--Natural Features of
+Asben--Vegetation--Cultivation--Manufactures--Bags for Charms.
+
+
+Dr. Barth[6] has made a very interesting journey to Aghadez. He says the
+track lies either through fine valleys or over mountain-chains cut up by
+defiles. Here and there were charming spots, green with herbage and
+trees. In going, the shallow wells at Eghelloua were found to be full of
+water; but a month later they were all dry. Beyond is the Wady Chizolen,
+overlooked by a mountain that rises abruptly to the height of two
+thousand feet. Then comes the valley of Eghellal, with its rivulet, and
+beyond swell the famous mountains of the Baghzem. The worthy Doctor
+seems to have been too much occupied in collecting geographical data to
+preserve many picturesque facts by the way. On the third day he encamped
+at Tiggedah, where numerous species of trees and bushes tufted the
+valley, which was clothed also, near the margin of its streams, with
+grass as fresh and green as any in Europe. At that time, however, the
+place, with the exception of the cooing of wild doves and the cry of a
+solitary antelope, seemed perfectly unvisited by man. Afterwards, it was
+found full of flocks and herds, and enlivened by the encampment of a
+salt-caravan, with a string of young camels bound for Aghadez. The tribe
+to whom the valley belongs are nomadic, and shift from one place to
+another, as their fancies and necessities suggest. Amidst the trees,
+however, may be seen a small mosque, built of stone and roofed with
+palm-trees.
+
+  [6] See the papers read before the Geographical Society, in
+      January and March 1851. It appears to me that Mr. A.
+      Petermann slightly depresses the importance of the part
+      played by Mr. Richardson in this mission. However, this may
+      arise from the fact that the communications on which his
+      paper was founded were all from his German friends. It is
+      not necessary to be grudging of notice to any of the three
+      enterprising gentlemen who undertook this arduous journey;
+      but we must always remember who planned the Mission, and
+      who directed it with consummate prudence as long as life
+      and strength lasted. In Mr. Richardson's MS. an outline is
+      given of Dr. Barth's journey, and I therefore insert it,
+      with corrections and additions, from the papers just
+      alluded to.--ED.
+
+This agreeable place prefaces the still more luxuriant scenery of
+Asadah, where the vegetation is so rich, and the path so shut up by
+branches, that it is difficult to keep on the camel's back. What a
+contrast to the naked deserts of Ghât! It was from between the rich
+foliage of this valley that Dr. Barth obtained his first glimpses of the
+majestic mountain-chain of Dogem, estimated to attain the height of
+between four and five thousand feet. It is the loftiest range in Aheer.
+
+The plain of Erarer-en-Dendemu, which next succeeds, is covered with
+brushwood and low trees, and inhabited by lions--here called the Father
+of the Wilderness. Dr. Barth saw several, as well as a kind of ape about
+the size of a small boy, squatting in crowds on the lower hills. Beyond,
+overhung by the mountains of Anderas, is the rocky plain of Tarist,
+famous among the Arabs, as well as the Kailouees, on account of the
+remains of a mosque, indicated only by lines of stones on the ground. It
+was founded by a great saint called Sidi Baghdadi, and is a general
+resting-place for caravans. The basaltic formation here succeeds the
+granitic; and the plain is covered with loose black stones, about the
+size of a child's head.
+
+Escaping from this rough ground, the travellers entered a narrow valley,
+trenched by a broad watercourse, along the sides of which was a thick
+growth of palm-trees. There are two villages in this wady. Near one of
+them slaves were seen yoked to a plough, and driven like oxen, by their
+master. Further south the hoe replaces the plough in preparing the
+ground. This valley, inhabited by the Imrad (a Targhee tribe), is
+capable of producing not only ghaseb, but corn, wine, dates, and all
+kinds of vegetables. Fifty gardens adorn, it is said, the neighbourhood
+of Ifargen. But, in general, the rich soil is left uncultivated, and is
+covered by wild and sickly vegetation, which checks the progress of the
+traveller.
+
+In Wadi Buddeh grows a prickly plant called karengia; and a parasite
+(_griffenee_), producing a sweet but insipid berry of a red colour. A
+party of five lions were pursued like so many jackals. A small caravan
+of four persons, in Wadi Teffarrakad, were making use of four different
+modes of progression: one was on a camel, another on a buffalo, the
+third on a donkey, and the fourth used his own legs. In Wady Boghel were
+the signs of a field of ghaseb having existed last year. The ground was
+covered by a sickly wild melon; and in the thick foliage of the trees
+the guinea-hens were cackling. Here Dr. Barth saw the first specimen of
+the bauré tree, the trunk measuring twenty-six feet in circumference,
+and the thick crown rising to the height of eighty feet. Here and
+elsewhere wild beasts were observed. The whole country, indeed, abounds
+in lions, wild boars, gazelles, ostriches, and monkeys.
+
+On the seventh day the party reached Aghadez, which they entered about
+an hour after sunset, it being the custom in this country never to enter
+a town by day. Aghadez is situated on a hamadah, or lofty plateau of
+sandstone and granite formation. Around, although there is no arable
+soil, a good deal of herbage and wood is found in the depressions of the
+plain. It is not surprising, therefore, that this much-talked-of capital
+is nothing but a large village, as indeed are all the other places of
+Aheer, with the exception of Asoudee. Aghadez, which is mentioned by Leo
+Africanus, is said by tradition to have been founded or enlarged by
+settlements from the north, consisting of a people called Arabs, but
+probably Berbers, since expelled by the Tuaricks. It serves as a sort of
+rendezvous between the Kailouees and the tribes to the south and west. A
+peculiar language (Emghedesie) is spoken by the inhabitants in their
+private intercourse; but Haussa is the idiom of trade. There are about
+seven hundred inhabited houses scattered among the ruins; and of fifty
+thousand people who must previously have lived within the walls, scarce
+eight thousand remain.[7] The inhabitants are partly artizans, partly
+merchants; but few caravans now pass on this route, and commerce with
+Timbuctoo seems altogether to have ceased. The trade that exists is
+entirely in provisions, principally in ghaseb, or millet, which is
+imported from Damerghou. The system adopted is entirely one of
+barter--the Aghadez money consisting of turkedi,[8] or dark-coloured
+cotton for female clothing made in Soudan, Egyptian leather for sandals,
+English calico, white shawls, cloves, pepper, pearls, &c. All these
+objects are imported, the only manufactures of Aghadez being
+leather-work (sandals and saddles) and coloured mats. I do not know what
+materials are used in tanning. The Fezzanee gets assistance, according
+to my fighi, from four trees--the graut, the ethel, the pomegranate, and
+the essalan. The first and last are a species of acacia. Women and men
+work in their houses at the production of these articles, and merchants
+go and purchase _à domicile_, there being now no shops. There are three
+market-places or bazaars, where prices are very low.
+
+  [7] This is Dr. Barth's statement, which I have introduced from
+      his own account. It will have been seen that Mr. Richardson
+      (see vol. i. "Note on the Territorial Division of Aheer,")
+      makes a much lower estimate. I may here remind the reader,
+      that even when in his diary Mr. Richardson inserts two
+      different and contradictory statements, I do not undertake
+      to select one and suppress the other, except in the case of
+      an obvious slip of the pen. Nor have I thought it necessary
+      to burden the page by indications of slightly different
+      assertions. A diary must necessarily abound with imperfect
+      observations, which correct or complete one another; and
+      perhaps the general impression left on the mind of the
+      reader--who accompanies, as it were, the writer in
+      receiving its various elements--is more like truth than it
+      would be after the perusal of one absolute dogmatic
+      statement.--ED.
+
+  [8] As an illustration of the previous note, I will observe
+      that this word is spelt in several different ways in the
+      MS., and I do not know which is the correct one.--ED.
+
+The Sultan of Aghadez, the great Koku Abd-el-Kader, does not receive any
+direct contribution towards his revenues, from the people of Aghadez,
+but levies a kind of _octroi_ of ten mithkals on every camel-load of
+goods that enters the town, provisions being exempt. He has property of
+his own, however; receives presents at his installation; and can always
+raise a sum by making a razzia on any neighbouring freebooters.
+
+It is a fundamental law in Aheer, that the Sultan of Aghadez shall
+belong to a particular family, which is said to derive its origin from
+Constantinople. Therefore when, in consequence of some discontent,
+Abd-el-Kader was deposed last year, the malcontents chose a relative,
+Hamed-el-Argau; but he also displeasing, a rival was set up in Makita,
+also of the same family. This caused great confusion, and the Walad
+Suleiman took the opportunity to make forays against Aheer. The prudent
+then resolved to restore the old Sultan, and succeeded, as I have
+already said, in their endeavours. When Dr. Barth arrived in Aghadez,
+the investiture was about to take place. The Sultan is chosen by the
+Kilgris and Iteesan tribes, who nourish a deadly hatred against their
+kindred, the Kailouees. On the present occasion, however, a marabout
+proclaimed peace and good-will between these ancient enemies. It was
+necessary, indeed, that some understanding should be come to, as after
+the election the ratification of En-Noor and Lousou is required.
+En-Noor, especially, is greatly respected by the people of Aghadez, as
+the grand supporter of authority in Asben. The new Sultan is usually
+brought from Sakkatou in state by the tribes Iteesan and Kilgris. A vast
+crowd of them, with their families and flocks, had marched up and
+occupied a camp near the town; but they departed on the same day that
+Dr. Barth arrived--even before he entered.
+
+Early in the morning, Dr. Barth paid his respects to the Sultan. He was
+a stout man, about fifty-five years of age--benevolent-looking, as far
+as could be judged in spite of his face-wrappers. He sat in a large
+room, supported by two massive columns, and received his visitors
+kindly. The presents pleased him, and were acknowledged by the
+counter-present of a fat ram, and by meals sent every day.
+
+The ceremony of investiture took place on the 16th of October, and seems
+to have been an imposing spectacle. Certain intricate forms are used to
+express the combination of various Tuarick tribes in choosing this
+foreign sultan. Succeeding it was the great festival, on which a
+procession took place, in which the new chief, wearing the burnouse
+which I had sent him, took part, with a great number of Tuaricks in
+their best array. Immediately afterwards a razzia (of which both we and
+Dr. Barth heard various conflicting reports) was agreed upon against the
+tribes of the north, especially those who had molested our
+expedition--the Fadeea. It was highly successful, and may perhaps be
+useful in procuring respect for future travellers. Two thousand men went
+out upon this foray, in which Abd-el-Kader was accompanied by
+Astakeelee, the Sultan of the Kailouees. Some, indeed, say that the
+latter only acted. Very little resistance was made, and I hear of only
+one man being killed. The fellow who stole Barth's maharee was compelled
+to restore him. Dr. Barth, however, though well-pleased on the whole
+with his reception, did not venture to present the treaty. He obtained
+some letters of recommendation to Soudan. Many of the distinguished
+persons of Aghadez visited Dr. Barth during his stay, and altogether his
+reception was satisfactory.
+
+I have already mentioned that the Sultan of Aghadez, though elected and
+controlled by a kind of aristocracy of sheikhs of various tribes, is
+invested with the power of life and death. He is said to have a
+frightful dungeon, into which guilty persons are thrown upon swords
+sticking upright in the ground. In his warlike expeditions he is
+regarded, however, as chief of some tribes only. The Kailouees have a
+sultan of their own, and encamp apart. The Sakonteroua, or Sheikh of
+Aghadez, exercises considerable influence. He is obliged annually to
+accompany the great salt-caravan, which sometimes numbers ten thousand
+camels--Saharan statistics--to Sakkatou.
+
+The town of Aghadez was formerly divided into a variety of quarters, the
+names of which still remain, although the space they occupied--three
+miles in circuit--is now principally filled with ruins. With the
+exception of five or six rubbish-hills, the whole space is level. The
+houses are spacious, with large rooms and court-yards. They are of mud,
+whitewashed, and furnished with flat terraces. Doves, children, and
+young ostriches, enliven the streets. There are some mosques, but none
+of imposing architecture. One, however, has a lofty tower, almost
+pyramidal in shape, supported on a basement of pillars, and rising to
+the height of about ninety feet. There is a kind of ladder inside; but
+Dr. Barth was not allowed to ascend, being told that the entrance was
+walled up.
+
+The land around the town is slightly undulating, and covered in the
+depressions with the _Acacia Arabica_. Herbage and good water abound.
+There are no orchards near, except in Wady Ameluli; but El-Hakhsas,
+three hours distant, produces melons, cucumbers, and melochiyeh, and
+supplies the whole town.
+
+The women of Aghadez are reported to be free and easy in character, and
+let loose tremendously as soon as the Sultan had departed on his razzia.
+Dr. Barth had some difficulty in keeping them at a distance. There are
+more children, however, to be observed in Aghadez than in most Aheer
+towns.
+
+This journey of Dr. Barth's has considerably extended our acquaintance,
+both with the geography and the political state of Asben or Aheer. We
+see now that it is strictly a portion of the Sahara, intersected with
+fertile valleys, that towards the south begin to assume quite a tropical
+character. The inhabitants are various in origin and in name; but it is
+difficult to describe their subdivisions with any accuracy. According to
+the natives, there are only two great tribes--the Kailouees, which
+division includes the Kailouees proper, the Kaltadak, and the Kalfadaï;
+and, secondly, the Kilgris, including the Kilgris proper, the Iteesan,
+and the Ashraf. But, in questions of detail, numerous other names appear
+which it is difficult to arrange under any proper head. The Kailouees
+are, I think, of genuine Targhee origin, although, as I have already
+mentioned, with a mixture of the Soudan races. The Kaltadak and the
+Kalfadaï seem to be identical with the borderers who attacked us on our
+first entrance into this country. The Kilgris are located southward,
+beyond Aghadez, along the Sakkatou route, and even far into Soudan,
+where the influence of the Targhee races seems to be rapidly on the
+increase.
+
+According to some of the Tanelkum Sheikhs, the following are the names
+of the principal Targhee tribes scattered over the desert of Sahara,
+excluding the inhabitants of Aheer:--
+
+1. Ouraghen     family of Shafou.
+
+2. Emanghasatan   "    of Hateetah.
+
+3. Amana          "    of Jabour.
+
+These are Ghât Tuaricks--Azghers.[9]
+
+4. Aheethanaran, the tribe of Janet.
+
+5. Hagar (Ahagar), pure Hagars and Maghatah, who stand to them somewhat
+in the relation of the Kourglouss of Algiers to the Turks. They occupy
+the tract between Ghât, Tuat, and Timbuctoo.
+
+6. Sagamaram; located on the route from Aisou to Tuat.
+
+7. Oulimad; tribes surrounding Timbuctoo in great numbers. In
+conjunction with the Berebisheers, a tribe of Arabs, they shut up the
+road between Aghadez and Timbuctoo by their predatory character.
+
+8. Tanelkum, located in Fezzan.
+
+  [9] The three tribes of Ghât are called Azgher, in
+      contradiction to the Hagar. A Tanelkum explained the
+      meaning of this last word (which I have usually written
+      Haghar) to mean "wandering" or "wanderers." The word is
+      sometimes written Hogar.
+
+We have been making inquiries of the Tanelkums about the population of
+Ghât and its deserts. The Tanelkums say, that ten or twelve years ago
+Khanouhen brought up about ten thousand maharees against the then
+masters of Mourzuk, the Walad Suleiman, headed by Abd-el-Galeel. The ten
+thousand maharees were the whole force and strength of the Azgher,
+Khanouhen having called out every male; for every man of the Azgher is a
+warrior. The Arabs, seeing the number of the Tuaricks, deemed it
+expedient to make peace. From this circumstance, it would be supposed
+that the Azgher may number from five to ten thousand families, nearly
+all located west of the Soudan route, along the lines of the Ghadamez
+and Tuat routes; where, it is said, there are fertile valleys, in which
+dates and corn are cultivated. But at Ghât I could never learn anything
+of these wadys. During my last visit I had no time, and the people there
+had no inclination to give me information about this fertile portion of
+the Azgher desert. On the former occasion, I learned from Haj Ahmed that
+there was a running stream, on the banks of which corn was cultivated,
+at about four days west of Ghât. This is probably the locality of Janet.
+For myself, I do not believe the Azgher Tuaricks number more than two
+thousand families.
+
+Of the population of Aheer I have been able to learn nothing definite;
+that is to say, nothing which I can absolutely depend upon. Some make it
+reach above fifty thousand souls. There are, however, only forty towns,
+exclusive of Aghadez; and about twenty places where people live in
+tents. I wrote down a second list of them, with their directions, and
+some guess at the number of male inhabitants. The son of the Tanelkum
+Sheikh considers the Kailouee warriors to amount to about fourteen
+thousand; which, indeed, will make the whole population above sixty
+thousand. The accounts I have received, therefore, seem to be
+sufficiently exact for general purposes.
+
+The Tanelkum Sheikh says there are no other tribes of Tuaricks but those
+enumerated above. The largest and most powerful tribe is that in the
+neighbourhood of Timbuctoo, the Oulimad, answering, perhaps, to the
+Sorghou of Caillie; and the smallest and weakest, the Tanelkum. But the
+Tanelkums, if small in number, are great in pride, and consider
+themselves a race of marabouts. They certainly make long prayers, and
+several of them can write a little. The Turks treat the Tanelkums with
+great consideration, and every year the Pasha of Mourzuk gives their
+Sheikh a fine burnouse and other presents. They pay no impost, though
+living in the Fezzan valleys. They are devoted to peaceful pursuits, and
+are camel-drivers and small merchants. Formerly they were powerful; and
+gave a sultan to the town of Ghât. About a century ago, their Sheikhs
+and the greater part of the Tanelkums were destroyed by a razzia of the
+Tibboos. They had then a town, which was situate in the Wady Esaiyen,
+where there are still ruins to be seen, and which we passed near Berkat.
+
+Of the Oulimad I know but little, except that they are exceedingly
+turbulent, even ferocious, in the neighbourhood of Timbuctoo. They also
+extend their razzias from Timbuctoo to the south-western frontiers of
+the Asbenouee territories. A very short time ago they made a foray on
+the Soudan route, between this and Damerghou. The Ghât Tuaricks I have
+pretty well described.
+
+The tribe of Janet has been mentioned frequently in this journal, from
+the circumstance of their attempting to get up a razzia against the
+expedition.
+
+The Haghar are well known, even in Europe, for their freebooting
+propensities. They lie between the Oulimad and the Azgher tribes
+surrounding Tuat, and are some of them engaged in commerce.
+
+The Sagamaram (or Sgamara) are an interesting small tribe, located in
+the rocky valleys, along the line of the route from Aisou to Tuat. They
+are mostly dressed in leathern clothes, and trade with Tuat, taking
+their cloths and a fragrant herb called _debau_, which they exchange
+against dates, &c. They likewise come to Aheer and Soudan, and fetch
+slaves and goods for the souks of Tuat. They are a very pacific tribe,
+not unlike the Tanelkums, but carrying on more commerce.
+
+The Maghatah (or Maratah) are a thievish race, and have the vices of
+their mothers, those peculiar to Soudan, as well as the more ferocious
+traits of Berber bandits. Several of these people are in Janet.
+
+In concluding these imperfect general observations on the state of Aheer
+or Asben, I will only add that the country extends from north to south
+eleven days' journey, or about two hundred and twenty miles (twenty
+miles to the day); and east and west, eight days, or one hundred and
+sixty miles. Aghadez, the largest town or city, stands, as has been
+seen, alone; and may be considered as a kind of connecting link,
+politically and otherwise, with the black countries to the south. I have
+already endeavoured to explain the singular constitution of society in
+this large but thinly-peopled tract. We observe there a curious
+combination of the monarchical and patriarchal states, with a dash of
+democracy into the bargain. Several times I have been reminded of
+Homer's heroic age. The princes and the people seem alternately to
+appear on the scene, exercising sovereign sway. The great Sultan is
+elected from out of the country; but he is compelled to seek the
+ratification of the chiefs, the elders, and the populace within. Then
+there is the great chief of the Kailouees, whose town or camp is at
+Asoudee; with Sultan Lousou, a most influential man; not to speak of the
+great En-Noor himself, who has, perhaps, personally, the greatest
+political weight of them all. Each of these great men is perpetually
+surrounded by an army of retainers, dependants, and slaves; and public
+affairs are transacted, partly according to some old routine, difficult
+for a stranger to understand, partly after the fashion of "Arabian
+Nights," kings meeting casually at the head of great armies in some
+poetical wilderness. All these chieftains are both pastors and
+merchants. One of their chief articles of traffic is, I am sorry to say,
+their unfortunate fellow-creatures. They are the greatest slave-dealers
+in the Sahara; two-thirds of the whole commerce is in the hands of the
+Kailouees. The Sultans levy duties likewise on the caravans that pass
+through their territory--duties which, to our cost, we know to be
+neither regular nor moderate; but they have no right to apply taxation
+to their quasi-subjects. Sometimes, when they are "hungry," they make a
+razzia on a distant tribe, and find both slaves and cattle at their
+disposal.
+
+As might have been expected, the Kailouees--princes and people--are not
+very refined in their ideas or luxurious in their habits. Their food
+consists principally of the grains ghaseb and ghafouley, or guinea-corn.
+They have also flocks and herds of sheep, camels, and bullocks; but the
+bullocks are used chiefly for draft, and to carry goods from Aheer to
+Soudan. Asses are exceedingly numerous, and likewise go to Soudan to
+fetch guinea-corn. The population of Aheer, being scattered about in
+small towns and villages, a few hours journey apart, these animals are
+found very useful for the transport of the persons and effects of the
+poor. The richer people have camels of the maharee species, like all the
+Tuaricks; and in some respects it is the possession of this splendid
+animal which distinguishes the Kailouee population from the people to
+the south. For example, all their sports and pastimes would be exactly
+Soudanese, were it not for the introduction of the maharee. On the
+celebration of a wedding, the Kailouees ride round the groups of guests
+on their silent-treading camels, which measure their movements to the
+sound of a big rude drum. Such scenes would otherwise be perfectly
+Nigritian. The men dance, flourishing their lances; and the slaves both
+dance and sing. But I have already noted down all that I observed
+remarkable in manners, and need not here repeat myself.
+
+The great natural features of Asben, also, are doubtless by this time
+impressed on the mind of the reader. They consist of a series of naked
+granite rocks or mountains, some of them rising to upwards of three or
+four thousand feet, ranging in every direction, with many isolated
+peaks; and of picturesque valleys winding along between steep
+precipices--threads of green, in which the tholukh and all species of
+mimosa and acacia, with the souag and other trees, flourish in immense
+growth, sometimes adorned by garlands and festoons of luxuriant
+parasitical plants. Wild animals of various kinds range at will in
+unfrequented places, but do not seem to excite much terror. There are
+gardens and cornfields in the neighbourhood of some of the towns and
+villages, the cultivation being kept up during the dry months by
+irrigation; but only a few of the inhabitants, mostly slaves, cultivate
+the soil. Besides the grains I have mentioned, a few vegetables,
+principally onions, are produced. Date-palms bear fruit, which is good,
+but will not keep.
+
+I have already mentioned the chief manufactures of Aheer. They flourish
+to the greatest extent in Aghadez; but Tintalous also has its artizans.
+Working in leather was very popular during our stay, in consequence of
+the presence of a noted charm-writer--bags being necessary. A good many
+cunning blacksmiths ply their trade in various places.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+Projected Departure for Damerghou--False Start--Picturesque
+Caravan--Sultan's Views of White Skins--My Birthday--The Sultan fights
+his Battles over again--His Opinion of Women--Bragging--The Razzia on
+the Fadeea--Political News in the Desert--Cold Weather--Continue our
+Journey--Bornouese Fighis--Tin-Tagannu--Trap for a Lion--Mousa's
+Camels--A further Delay--Jackals and the Fire--Language of
+Signs--Tintalousian Coquettes--Departure of the Zinder Caravan--Natural
+Features--Languages--The Kilgris--Killing Lice--The Razzia to the
+North--Present of a Draught-board--Pagan Nations--Favourable Reports.
+
+
+_Nov. 2d._--As this was the day fixed for our departure for Damerghou,
+it may well be imagined that we looked forward to it with some anxiety.
+Our delay in the neighbourhood of Tintalous had been unexpectedly long,
+and at times even the idea had crossed our minds that we should never be
+allowed to depart at all. Often we had desired to start alone; but had
+been withheld by our own prudence, as well as by the representations of
+our host, the venerable Sheikh of Tintalous. We had come by degrees
+scarcely to believe in the possibility of an advance, and to consider
+ourselves as the prisoners of circumstances in this advanced part of the
+Sahara, touching on the very borders of Central Africa. Now, however, we
+saw, by the bustle of preparation in the town, that, whether the
+salt-caravan arrived or not, we were to press forward. All night the
+town was in a bustle. We rose before sunrise, to complete what packing
+we had to do, and saw Jupiter and the moon in positions nearly
+resembling the Ottoman device. It was windy all yesterday and this
+morning, with a considerable degree of cold.
+
+To my astonishment when we had taken leave of Tintalous, we pitched tent
+after half an hour's journey. This was done, however, for a twofold
+reason: 1st, to see that all was right, and that we had left nothing
+behind; and 2d, to buy ghaseb,--a supply having arrived from Asoudee
+just in time for us to carry with us. Never was there a more picturesque
+caravan. Ladies on bullocks, children and women on donkeys, warriors on
+maharees, merchants on camels, the Sultan's horse harnessed going alone,
+and following steadily; goats and their kids, sheep, foals of camels,
+&c. running or straggling along! When we had pitched tent in the valley,
+still in sight of Tintalous, En-Noor paid us a visit, and vouchsafed to
+explain the reasons of our delay. His highness also related several
+interesting things of Aghadez. The Sultan of that place, he says, is a
+descendant of one of three brothers, Shereefs, who ruled in Africa over
+the negro and other races. The eldest brother was Sultan of the West
+(Morocco); the next was Sultan of Bornou; and the third and youngest was
+Sultan of Aghadez in remote times. But how remote, it is impossible for
+En-Noor to tell, and, of course, for me to relate. I was much amazed by
+the predilection of En-Noor (who is not absolutely a white man) for
+black people. He praised Overweg, because he was getting brown and
+black. As for me, his highness was almost inclined to express his
+disgust for the whiteness of my skin. Unfortunately, I happen to be what
+the people call in England "very fair," except in those parts of my skin
+which come in direct contact with the sun. I spent the day in compiling
+a Haussa vocabulary, and hope to make considerable progress by the time
+we arrive in Damerghou.
+
+_3d._--This was my birthday, but of course it was unkept, and, indeed,
+almost unthought of until it was past.
+
+En-Noor again visited us, and drank with us coffee. His highness is
+getting quite attached to my tent, and swears that when I return to my
+country I must become a great man, and be made, like himself, a governor
+or sultan of some country. Shall I say, Inshallah? I asked Yusuf to
+explain why the Sultan thought so, and I could only learn that it was
+the opinion which his highness had formed from my general conduct.
+
+Being in a very happy humour to-day, the Sultan related many things of
+his youth; his exploits, of course, which all men relate, and which I
+shall likewise do, I imagine, if I live to be old. Showing us his
+withered fleshless arms, and taking hold of his armlets, he observed:
+"The time was when these armlets could not slip off. Now, see how easily
+they come away." He then abused me for my leanness, and admired the
+Taleb (Overweg), because he had more flesh on his bones. His highness
+also stated that he and a single man went to Damerghou and back in
+thirteen days, bringing a caravan of ghaseb. They never stopped on the
+road, but travelled day and night. This garrulous gentleman also
+declared he was the maker of his own fortunes--that he would not receive
+anything from his father. When he was young, he would take no person's
+advice; he did everything himself and from himself: but on the death of
+his father he always kept to his post as Sheikh of Tintalous, and Sultan
+of two towns in Soudan. He never moved this way or that way. Thus he has
+remained to a good old age, respected and venerated by all, whilst all
+his compeers have disappeared--not one remaining. He looks around for
+the friends and companions of his youth, and finds not one--they are all
+gone! Even now he allows no one in Asben to be greater than himself.
+Even if a Sultan presumes to lord it over him, he (En-Noor) at once
+knocks him down, and he is no longer Sultan in Asben. He remains,
+however, friends with all if he can. He never takes notice of anything
+which is not done under his own eyes; but when he sees a bad thing
+committed, he then acts--killing the wicked people, if necessary.
+
+The opinion of his highness of women does not flatter the ladies. He
+recommended us never to listen to the advice of our wives; if we did, we
+should be lost. The women were very well to fetch water, pound ghaseb,
+and cook the supper, but for nothing else. He never, himself, paid any
+attention to what they said; they were awful talkers. His highness here
+touched on a tender point; for, as the reader remembers, he has been
+beating one of his wives shamefully lately, because he pretended he was
+alarmed at her continual talking--bewildered by the length of her
+tongue! Proceeding in his confessions, the Sultan next related wonderful
+stories of a wonderful maharee which he had in his youth. With this
+maharee he rode to Aghadez in one day. With this maharee he chased, and
+run down, and won gazelles, and then cooked and ate them, &c. Glorious
+old fellow! Our Tanelkum Mousa, however, afterwards observed, that this
+was _kitheb_, "a lie;" but that he knew a woman who could catch
+gazelles. Many other things of equal interest his highness related, and
+then left us in a good humour.
+
+Two of our camels strayed this evening. En-Noor's people soon brought
+them back. Our servants are very careless, and all our mishaps are a
+profit to the Kailouees. We have still, however, two camels lost, and, I
+imagine, shall not now recover them. But I was glad to hear the news
+that the Sultan of Asoudee was successfully chastising all the people
+who on the road attacked us. He had punished the people of Azaghar and
+of Seloufeeat, even the son of Haj Bashaw; and the Haj himself, who was
+said to be our friend, because he did not look after his son. The Sultan
+acts quite according to my opinion, making all the principal people of
+Seloufeeat and other places responsible for the conduct of the poorer
+and lower classes. It is said that the Fadeea have fled; but others say
+that they have been captured, and all our property which could be found
+seized in the name of the Sultan of Asoudee. All the steps taken by this
+Sultan have been directed, more or less, by En-Noor. He can muster, it
+is said, two thousand warriors--for every able-bodied man fights in this
+country. This expedition may be useful for future travellers from
+Europe, but I fear we shall get back none of our property.
+
+As a specimen of the political news strained through the brains of the
+people of Tuat, I may mention that the Tuatee, recently arrived here,
+reports that "the King of the Frenchmen has run away to England, and
+carried with him all the money of the French," and, moreover, that "as
+the French conquered Algiers by distributing large dollars to every one,
+and hold it by the same means, the French now having no money, must soon
+relinquish Algiers again to the hands of the Muslims."
+
+_4th._--The weather is getting colder and colder. The last few days have
+been quite chilly, with a strong wind blowing from the east. This
+morning it was quite uncomfortable, the thermometer having fallen for
+the first time to 60° at sunset. We started early, and made seven hours
+in a south-eastern direction. It was a nice ride; but as the day
+advanced we got much sunburnt. After three hours we passed on the left
+the little village Zouazgher. The caravan showed again very
+picturesquely, the burdens tumbling off from the donkeys in the most
+delightful confusion, and the girls squalling for help. I ate on the
+road some Soudan dates, as they are called by the Arabs, and found them
+pleasant--a sort of bitter sweet. The name of the tree and of the fruit
+is, in Bornou, _bitu_. In Haussa the tree has two names, _aduwa_ and
+_tinku_. Our course to day was up a fine valley, down which the water in
+the rainy season runs from east to west. There was abundance of trees
+and herbage. At this place, however, lions abound, and last night a
+camel was eaten by them. We encamped opposite a mountain, rising pretty
+high in sugar-loaf shape, called Adudai. Over the carcase of the camel
+hovered a small flock of eagles.
+
+A Bornouee fighi, called Mustapha, from the country Malămdi, west of
+Kuka, tells us he has been six months at Aghadez. According to him, the
+route from Aghadez to Timbuctoo is one month. It is open, and not
+dangerous. En-Noor, indeed, promised to send any of us by that route if
+we wished. There are few people on the route, and if you pay them a
+little money you pass unmolested. This Bornouese fighi is not equal to
+his brethren whom I saw in Tintalous. But I learnt from this itinerant
+pedagogue the interesting fact, that there are a great number of persons
+of his profession, all from Bornou, travelling about in Aheer. Light,
+therefore, is springing up from the interior, and spreading to the coast
+in an opposite direction to what it did in former times.
+
+_5th._--Warmer weather greeted us this morning. We stay here to-day. The
+place is called Tin-Tagannu, and is a large wady, full of herbage and
+trees. It is inhabited by a few shepherds. This place is said to have
+been the first of the inhabited localities in Aheer, although now
+shepherds only drive their flocks there; so that spots of earth have
+their seasons and fortunes in the Sahara as elsewhere. By the way, I
+must continue to call this Sahara. Although there are periodic rains, we
+are still without the influences of the Soudan climate, which begins at
+Damerghou and Zinder. At the present season no country can be more
+healthy than these Asbenouee valleys. I hear that nearly all the women,
+as well as the men, have left Tintalous, so that the town is a perfect
+desert. En-Noor has brought his wives and daughters, and our caravan is
+like the migration of the whole of the town going in quest of a new
+country.
+
+A trap was set last night for the lion, but the king of beasts was too
+wise to be caught. En-Noor borrowed a gun of us to make this trap, which
+was of the following description. It was expected that the lion would
+come again to the carcase of the camel; so a hedge of thorns was made
+round the carcase with one opening, where was placed the muzzle of the
+gun, with a large piece of meat tied to the trigger, so that when he
+seized the meat he might fire off the deadly weapon against himself.
+
+This is a fine place for doves, and Overweg shot half a dozen to-day.
+Our Tanelkum, Mousa, informs us of the right way of tending camels. They
+ought never to be tied, but allowed to roam at large. They require also
+to be led through the best valleys, being so far helpless in finding a
+good grazing-place for themselves. He showed us his camels, comparing
+them with ours. And certainly ours, which had their legs tied and were
+not guided to good herbage, could not bear comparison. But, of course,
+the business, the support, the riches of Mousa, are his camels. They
+occupy all his thoughts, and would appear, to a stranger, to be the end
+of his existence.
+
+_6th._--This morning at sunrise the thermometer was as low as 52°
+Fahrenheit. We shivered with cold.
+
+Dr. Barth arrived early by way of Tintalous. He confirms the news that
+the Sultans of Aghadez and Asoudee have completely chastised all those
+tribes who stopped us on the road and levied black mail on us.
+
+En-Noor paid us a visit in the morning. After shaking us all in a very
+friendly manner by the hands, he expressed his regret that he could not
+go with us now to Zinder. The country was not tranquil, and the people
+would not consent to his going; but if we wished to proceed immediately
+with his principal slave, Zangheema, he assured us we should go safely.
+He then left us to reflect upon what we would do. We decided, without a
+dissentient voice, that we could not venture to go with Zangheema, and
+that we must wait for En-Noor, be the time ever so long. We forwarded
+this decision to his highness, who seemed to receive it with
+satisfaction. His wife sent us word, "To be sure not to go without her
+husband;" a piece of advice from a lady we are anxious most religiously
+to respect. Dr. Overweg made an application, through Daubala and Yusuf,
+to go to the salt-mines of Bilma with the Kailouees. But either the
+applicants betrayed the thing, or En-Noor was unwilling to grant
+permission. Our friend, therefore, is disappointed of this most
+interesting geological excursion.
+
+We are to remove a little further to the west, to a valley more
+convenient than this for pitching tents, and under some shelter. We
+still hope we shall not be obliged to await the return of the
+salt-caravan from Bilma (that is, a month, or forty days) before we
+start. Probably, when good news comes from the camp in the west we shall
+go on. It will be a sad trial for our patience to wait so long, after
+having already dallied more than two months in Tintalous.
+
+_7th._--The thermometer at sunrise stood at 51°--very cold. There are no
+signs yet of Zangheema's starting to Damerghou. The people, when sitting
+over the fire in the evening, relate jocosely that the jackals, not
+being able to come near the flame, and nevertheless feeling the cold
+very much, hold up their fore-paws, in a sitting or squatting position,
+in imitation of men, towards the fire, be they at ever so great a
+distance, and so screw up their imaginations to the belief that they are
+warming themselves. The language of gesticulation and signs, by the
+movement of different parts of the body, is quite a study in this part
+of the world. The most singular gesticulation, and yet the most
+significant, is that by which a person begs a thing. He holds the object
+in one hand (the left) before the owner, then gives the right hand and
+arm a swing round, and at last places the right hand to his bosom--the
+meaning of all which is, that he seeks to ascertain if the owner has any
+other article of the same description as that which he holds in his left
+hand, and whether he is willing to give it to him. When a Kailouee says
+a thing is good, he puts the forefinger of his right hand into the
+clasped palm of his left, and so, as he pronounces the thing good,
+_nagari_, he turns his imprisoned finger round within the closed left
+hand. When he says there are many persons, he clasps together the
+fingers of his left hand, and forms a good English fist, holding the
+hand thumb upwards. He then strikes, with the palm of his right hand,
+the fist of his left hand, held in that particular position. This sign
+also represents a more indelicate idea, and is used in the same way on
+the coast.
+
+The women, from the shepherdess to the princess, of Tintalous, are as
+fond of the bustle as European dames; but the important difference is,
+it is the natural bustle which they here delight to exhibit to the
+admiring male population. If a woman be called to, going off to the well
+for water, she does not turn round to see who is calling, but
+immediately draws her frock tight round her form, and imparts to it a
+most agitated and unnatural swinging motion, to the great satisfaction
+of the admiring lookers-on. Thus we see how the coquettes of London and
+Paris meet at opposite poles with these of the Sahara and Central
+Africa.
+
+Additional applications were made to En-Noor by my colleagues, to go
+respectively to Bilma and to Zinder--Dr. Barth wishing to go on with
+Zangheema--but without effect. The old Sheikh remained firm in his
+refusals: Zangheema, however, was the first to start objections to
+Barth's accompanying him. As to Overweg, we think he lost his
+opportunity by not treating directly with En-Noor, instead of Hamma his
+son-in-law. His highness will do nothing extra for us unless paid.
+
+_8th._--We rose early, and found a large portion of the caravan destined
+for Zinder already gone. This is very tiresome to see the people
+starting with whom you were to have gone, and to know that you have
+still thirty or forty days to wait; and as for expenses, living at
+almost as dear a rate as in Tripoli. Our boat has gone with the caravan.
+
+Hereabouts grow a great quantity of wild water-melons, _delaâah_. They
+are very small and bitter, but the people, nevertheless, eat them
+occasionally. If cultivated they would, of course, soon yield an
+excellent supply. Barth represents the road between this and Aghadez as
+very woody, and also that the country is everywhere mountainous. Baghzem
+is not high, but is, nevertheless, a very large mountain, seen several
+days' journey. The high plains without water are also covered with
+trees. I hear, also, that the road between this and Damerghou is
+exceedingly woody, and the trees of "the scratching or rending
+description," like the tholukh. Aheer also abounds in senna.
+
+Yusuf says that all the people of Soudan are red, with the exception of
+the inhabitants of Tesaoua, Kanou, Kashna, and Maradee.
+
+Barth represents Gouber as stronger than ever, and united in alliance
+with Maradee against the Sultan of Sakkatou. He has written all the
+towns. Gouber appears amongst the towns described by Leo Africanus.
+
+_9th._--This morning En-Noor paid us a visit, to tell us to move after
+him in the wady near, under the shade of the trees. His highness was
+very polite and friendly, as he has now been for some time past.
+
+The weather continues cold--thermometer, 49° at sunrise in the air. This
+cold weather ought to strengthen or restore our health. It certainly
+would do us good, much good, if we could get meat and soups.
+
+I sent on our boat yesterday to Zinder, with three of our servants,
+together with some other heavy baggage. I was occupied to-day in
+compiling the Haussa dictionary. Kashna is represented to be the
+fountain of the Haussa language, the Florence of Soudan. Kanou is a
+place of foreigners, and the language of the city must be much
+corrupted. According to En-Noor, _Kal_, in the names _Kal_fadaï,
+_Kal_tadak, _Kil_gris, and _Kail_ouee, signifies _country_. There are to
+be added to the zoology of this country the monkey and the _mohur_, or
+fine large gazelle, as large as a deer, called in Haussa _măráiă_.
+We already find great differences in the pronunciation of the Haussa
+language, but especially in the following letters:--_sh_ is confounded
+with _ch_ or _tch_, _l_ with _r_, and _r_ with _l_, _o_ with _u_, &c.
+Letters are also frequently unnecessarily doubled. These differences,
+however, will never much affect the conversation, when the parties are
+well agreed upon what subject they are conversing.
+
+_10th._--This morning we are removing to the shade of the trees, near
+En-Noor. Dr. Barth describes the Kilgris as very fine, tall men, and
+much lighter in complexion than the Kailouees: they dress very simply,
+having only the black turkadee on their heads, having neither a bakin
+zakee under it, nor any white shash, or fotah, to wind upon it, in the
+fashion of the Kailouees. They are, like all these tribes, very proud,
+and nourish a deadly enmity towards the Kailouees, of whom they take
+precedence in Aghadez. Barth gave away a black-lead pencil in Aghadez,
+and afterwards everybody came to ask him for one. A person got one
+pencil, and begged another, saying, "the two would last him his whole
+life."
+
+_11th._--The weather is increasingly cold in the morning; three-quarters
+of an hour after sunrise the thermometer was 45° in open air.
+
+His highness vouchsafed this day to sleep in my tent, and yesterday he
+did the Germans the honour of slaughtering lice in theirs. It is a grand
+piece of etiquette in this country, that every man has the privilege of
+murdering his own lice. If you pick a louse off a man's sleeve, you must
+deliver it up instantly to him to be murdered, as his undoubted right
+and privilege.
+
+The Sultan of Aghadez has returned from his razzia against the people of
+Seloufeeat, of Azgher, and the Kalfadaï. Those whom he caught he
+chastised: but most of the Fadeea fled. I register these varying
+reports, because they show the state of uncertainty in which we were
+always kept, now hearing one thing, now another. But the true state of
+the case seems to be, that though the great Koku of Aghadez did take the
+field for a razzia, the actual operations were conducted by the Sultan
+of Asoudee. It must be remembered, however, that with their maharees
+these desert-princes can march to and fro with surprising rapidity, and
+that rumour finds it difficult to follow their footsteps. En-Noor now
+thinks the country sufficiently tranquil to move on two days further. He
+says he shall do so in the course of fifteen days.
+
+_12th._--His highness paid me a visit as usual, and I gave him a box
+containing a looking-glass, with a lid, on which is painted a
+draught-board, for the wife of his highness, who recommended us not to
+leave En-Noor, but continue with him until he carried us safely to
+Zinder. His highness expressed great satisfaction for the present; and
+when I told him to take care it was not broken, he observed: "I will
+take especial care of this thing, because there is none like it in this
+country, and it cannot be repaired." He told us also that his ladies
+could play at draughts. I gave him, besides, a piece of green silk for a
+shade for his eyes. He went off immediately, gratified with these little
+presents.
+
+The weather is very pleasant for the study of languages, but the days
+are too short and the nights are too long. Nevertheless, I sleep nearly
+all night this cold weather.
+
+_13th._--Thermometer at sunrise in the open air was 41° 30' Fahr., so
+that the cold increases, this being the lowest which I have yet taken.
+The Germans have had a deal of trouble with Mohammed of Tunis; they
+would send him back, but there is no opportunity of doing so.
+
+Máguzáwa and Azna are the names of the pagan nations of Soudan, denoting
+the same people, and not different races. The names answer to the word
+_Kurdi_, in Bornou. These pagans say, in derision of the Muslims, when
+it rains, "Allah must have a large belly," that so much water falls from
+him.
+
+En-Noor describes pagans of Maradee drinking large quantities of _gia_
+(beer, or fermented liquor).
+
+This evening a Gadamsee arrived at the tents, bringing two or three
+slaves from Damerghou. He says the news of our arrival had already
+reached Damerghou--that it was reported there that the Sultan of Aghadez
+had given Barth a black tobe; not, by any means, a bad rumour. He sends
+his slaves to Ghât from this place, and returns immediately to
+Damerghou, taking letters for us to Zinder.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+Medicine for Bad Eyes--A summary Proceeding--News from the
+Salt-Caravan--Towns and Villages of Tesaoua--Earthquakes--Presents for
+the Sultan of Maradee--Yusuf's Insolence--English Money in Aheer--A
+Razzia on the Holy City--Bornouese Studies--Gipsies of Soudan--En-Noor
+and the Marabouts--Ghaseb--State of the Weather--Calculations for the
+Future--Senna--Relations of Man and Wife in Aheer--En-Noor in his
+Family--Gouber and Maradee--Beer-drinking--Study of the Sau--Shara--The
+Oulimad--Lions--Translating Jokes--Digging a Well--Projects.
+
+
+_Nov. 14th._--I wrote this morning, by the slaves going to Ghât, to Mr.
+Bidwell and my wife. En-Noor paid us a visit in the afternoon, and was
+exceedingly civil. He promises me letters for Sakkatou, and to forward
+Overweg to Maradee.
+
+Our servant shot a large vulture to-day. En-Noor having bad eyes,
+ordered the eyes of this bird of prey to be scooped out for a medicine.
+This is not the first time that I have heard of the various parts of
+animals being eaten, or otherwise used, to cure or strengthen the
+corresponding parts in human beings. It seems to be an idea natural to
+people in a rude or semi-barbarous state.
+
+En-Noor related a pretty anecdote of himself and his younger days in our
+tent to-day. After saying, that formerly the Asbenouee people were the
+only folks considered bad in these parts, he observed, that now he
+himself and the Asbenouee were certainly much improved in their manners
+and dispositions; "for," added he, "there were once four fighis
+(charm-writers) who employed people to speak against me, and bring me
+into disrepute. What did I do? I called them to me, gave them fine
+presents of burnouses and a great supper, with an apartment in which to
+pass the night. But when they were fast asleep I dug a large hole,
+fetched them all out of the room, killed them, and covered them up in
+the hole. Now, however," continued his highness, "we do not go so far as
+this, but content ourselves with taking away an enemy's camels."
+
+_15th._--Weather cold this morning. Thermometer at sunrise, 43°. I hang
+the thermometer on the tent-ropes, just outside, at about a foot from
+the ground.
+
+Hamma (son-in-law of En-Noor) returned this morning from the
+salt-caravan. He marked on the sand that the caravan would be
+thirty-five days before it returned; so, I imagine, we have still from
+this time some thirty days to wait here. He left the caravan on its
+entering the Hamadah, between this and Bilma.
+
+
+TOWNS AND VILLAGES OF TESAOUA.
+
+(_From Amankee's relation._)
+
+1. Tesaoua: people 1400; residence of the governor. Two large wells and
+one small one.
+
+2. Harmaua: 500. A little water.
+
+3. Ungua Korna: 400. One well, much water.
+
+4. Haidaua: 500. One well, and much water.
+
+5. Nuwala: 500 or 600. No water; but only half an hour from Haidaua.
+
+6. Nachira: 800, scattered about in small groups. Much water.
+
+7. Ungua-guka: 500. One well.
+
+8. Ungua-tallai: 400. Much water.
+
+9. Gindaua: 1000. Large wells; few trees.
+
+10. Saulawa: 40 or 50.
+
+The capital and nearly all this country is full of trees. Not a stone is
+to be seen, and the soil is sandy.
+
+The Sultan, or Governor of Tesaoua, is subject to the sovereign of
+Maradee, who is the only independent black prince in this part of
+Africa. The inhabitants are mixed, pagans and Muslims, but these last
+are not bigoted.
+
+En-Noor visited us this evening, and I asked him if he recollected
+earthquakes in this country. The old Sheikh emphatically replied,
+_Babo_, "There are none."
+
+_16th._--Barth has picked up a good many words in Aghadez, mostly
+correct.
+
+_17th._--It was colder this morning, although yesterday was very
+pleasant. Thermometer at sunrise, 41°.
+
+It is expected that we shall still remain here thirty days, which time,
+if divided half between Haussa and half between Bornouee, will help me
+on in these languages, the principal of the interior of Africa. Mohammed
+Tunisee is now the servant of Barth alone. Overweg has given him up.
+
+Yesterday morning I gave Overweg the presents for the Sultan of Maradee,
+to whom he intends to go on a mission, in the same way as Barth went to
+Aghadez. The presents consist of a fine burnouse, a fine shasheeah (five
+mahboubs), two pieces of coloured cotton cloth, two heads of white
+sugar, knives, scissors, cinnamon, looking-glasses, beads, &c. I hope he
+will not return without bringing back the treaty signed. He is also to
+make some arrangement for the establishment of the missionaries in
+Maradee.
+
+To-day we had prayers in Overweg's tent. I read several short prayers
+from the Church of England prayer-book, and also the Gospel and Epistle
+for the Sunday.
+
+_18th._--Yesterday evening it was cloudy, and the moon had, for several
+hours, an immense elliptical ring round it--a common phenomenon in the
+northern Sahara.
+
+To-day Yusuf got up in a rage, and threw down his writing, because I
+told him he did not take pains to obtain from the people the several
+meanings of the words. This has been the case for most of the time we
+have been occupied with the vocabulary. I have therefore left him to
+himself, since he insulted me in this manner before the servants, and I
+fear I cannot trust myself to go with him to Sakkatou. It is a great
+inconvenience, but I must search for a kateb (writer) at Zinder. There
+are many poor men of this profession in Bornou, and very faithful
+people.
+
+_19th._--His highness En-Noor continues to visit us. Yesterday I gave
+him an English silver fourpenny piece, an English farthing, and a small
+French silver coin, with all of which he was greatly delighted. He
+summed up their value in wadâ; fifty wadâs are an English penny. He
+admired her majesty's face on the silver fourpence; but his shadow, the
+man who generally comes with him, said,--"Oh, no, the face of the woman
+for a Sultan is not good. _This_ is good," pointing to the head of Louis
+Philippe.
+
+The news came yesterday evening that a razzia had just been made on
+Tintaghoda, the assailants carrying away everything before them, and the
+inhabitants of the town fleeing to the mountains. This razzia was made
+by the people whom the Sultan of Aghadez has lately punished for the
+depredations committed on us and other caravans on the road. When this
+took place there were a few people at Tintalous, who, on hearing the
+news, came off immediately to us after En-Noor, so that now there does
+not remain a single inhabitant in the village. The people of the razzia
+were much disappointed at finding no more camels, all those of the
+villages hereabouts, and indeed through all Aheer, being gone to fetch
+salt from Bilma. They wished to make up the number of camels which the
+Sultan of Aghadez took away from them. Of course, when the salt-caravan
+returns, an effort will be made to avenge this insult on the holy city
+of Aheer--this profanation of the abode of marabouts! It is singular,
+nevertheless, that only a year ago some neighbouring tribes, thinking
+these holy men had too much wealth, carried off a large number of their
+camels. This is the much-vaunted place amongst the credulous Moorish
+merchants of the coast, where theft and robbery are unknown!
+
+_21st._--A foggy _November_ morning! But this change of the atmosphere
+is very rare, and soon passes away. It is amazing how steady the seasons
+are, and how they roll, each bringing its accustomed weather and tunes.
+
+Yesterday I began my Bornou studies, not knowing whether I shall go
+first to Bornou or Soudan. I intend, if my health be preserved, to make
+a dictionary of the Bornou and Soudan languages together, for the sake
+of commerce and general information. I hope Government will print it, or
+if not Government, the Philological Society.
+
+_Abizgen_ is a fruit which abounds in Aheer. It is half the size of
+small currants, and has not a disagreeable taste--a sort of bitter-sweet
+clammy taste. This fruit may be called Aheer currants.
+
+In the neighbourhood of our encampment have been seen gazelles,
+ostriches, and monkeys, in considerable numbers.
+
+_22d._--En-Noor went off yesterday morning early, to visit a great
+marabout in the neighbourhood. This will enable us to apply ourselves
+closely to the languages, all day long. Occupied as I am with Soudanese
+and Bornouese, all the days fly away swifter than arrows shot by the
+most expert archers. En-Noor is expected to return in the course of four
+or five days. We have now all the village of Tintalous with us. It is
+Tintalous encamped out in the valley.
+
+_23d._--The orient sky flamed this morning with a pure yellow flame,
+amidst a somewhat murky atmosphere.
+
+Most of the people have a fire all night. In the morning they cower over
+it like inhabitants of the poles. Of course we as well as they, having
+been baked in the summer's sun, now feel the cold most acutely.
+
+There is a species of people scattered through Soudan which correspond
+to our gipsies, called Máguzáwa (sing. Bámăguzăi). These are
+essentially a merry, care-nothing people, always half tipsy, and always
+full of fun. They, however, work a little in agriculture; differing from
+our gipsies, who are little more than itinerant tinkers. A boy was shown
+to me to-day, whom his parents had christened _Butu_, "worthless." It is
+related that his mother had many children before him, all of whom died,
+and when he came into the world the people or neighbours all cried,
+"_Butu! Butu!_" i.e. "He will come to nothing." Then, it is added, "God
+seeing the people gave him a bad name, determined in compassion to
+preserve his life, and so his life was preserved to this day."
+
+En-Noor returned this evening from his visit to the marabout.--It is my
+intention to send home fifty thousand African words for this expedition.
+What future expeditions may do, if my life be spared, I cannot tell. I
+speak for this. I imagine I have already sent to the Foreign Office six
+thousand. I shall have five thousand, I hope, by the time I get to
+Zinder--three of Soudanese, and two of Bornouese. I must try to get a
+few words of the Aghadez language. These I can get, probably, at
+Sakkatou. I must have another writer, or fighi. My present Bornouese
+fighi is a very poor fellow.
+
+_24th._--The Sunday soon came again, with the study of languages. Now
+the time of our waiting here does not appear to be long enough. I have a
+commercial dictionary to make.
+
+En-Noor came to us after his return from his visit to his marabout
+friend. He says of the late razzia at Tintaghoda, that the marabouts of
+that town brought it all upon themselves, being the first to begin to
+countenance attacks upon caravans (that is, ours). He does not pity
+them; he does not care for them; and, he added, "They have now lost all
+their reputation amongst the people." The fact is, when we came the
+marabouts did not know what course to take, whether to attack us or to
+receive us; so they chose the former, in their blinded judgment, and
+brought all this evil upon their heads.
+
+The Fadeea, or Kalfadaï, have decamped with their booty and their
+families to the Hagar, beyond the reach of recapture or revenge.
+
+A scorpion was found in my tent to-day, running across the sandy floor.
+We look upon them now as nearly harmless, whilst the cold weather has
+deprived them of all force.
+
+_25th._--Occupied with the languages. Time passes quickly.
+
+_26th._--Began the Bornou grammar.
+
+_27th._--A visit from En-Noor. He put on one of my gloves, and was much
+amused with it. He held out his hand, and put it on the face of his
+courtiers--showing fight. It was very white, which gave him occasion to
+pass to my skin, and pity my being so white. I made several useful
+remarks on Haussa grammar, and begin to understand the genius of the
+language.
+
+A caravan of ghaseb has arrived from Damerghou, by which we learn that
+the Sfaxee and Fezzan merchants are arrived in that country. We have
+been trying to buy ghaseb of the people, or of En-Noor; but it appears
+we were too late, for it is said to be all gone. The dollars are worth
+only 1750 wadâs here, whilst in Kanou they pass for 2500. Every article
+is depreciated in value in Aheer, because food is scarce. We have,
+however, managed to purchase a bullock--a great beast.
+
+_28th._--I did not feel so well after the meat-eating; we have had so
+little of it, and so seldom, that a little extra quite upsets me, and
+the gnawing it makes all my teeth bleed. Thermometer, 50°. The weather
+has changed to mistiness, haziness. It is now reported that we still
+remain here twenty-five days longer, the caravan arriving only in twenty
+days, and five being allowed to rest the camels. So we have time enough
+for the Haussa and Bornou languages. I wish to master the grammar of
+each, so as to superintend some translation of the Scriptures.
+
+_29th._--The weather is still hazy, and warmer; but whilst it is warmer
+in the morning it is cooler in the mid-day, on account of the clouds and
+haze. Half an hour after sunrise, thermometer 56°.
+
+En-Noor says we shall start in seventeen days, but ten days more or less
+for these people are nothing. Our courier for the money has just been
+gone thirty-three days. If, happily, he arrive to day, he will save a
+week of the Shantah from Mourzuk to Tripoli. If we remain here now
+twenty-five days, and are thirty-five days more before we arrive at
+Zinder, that will be sixty days. I shall then have only twenty days more
+to wait till the expiration of the four months, when I may expect the
+courier to return. Thus I hope to have the money to pay the Sfaxee
+before I go to Sakkatou. But, alas! such calculations are extremely
+uncertain, and we cannot tell what a day may bring forth. For our
+support and safety we must repose firmly in the goodness of an Almighty
+Providence.
+
+_Nov. 30th to Dec. 3d._--The weather has been mild these last few days;
+this morning, half an hour after sunrise, thermometer 51°.
+
+En-Noor has been to pay a visit to the Sultan of Asoudee, meeting him at
+some neighbouring village. There was a council respecting the affairs of
+the tribe of the Iteesan, who are fighting amongst themselves; but no
+news has transpired since his return. The old sheikh is in good health
+and spirits, which he attributes partly to drinking my coffee twice and
+thrice a-day. He says we shall leave here in the course of twelve days.
+
+Senna is grown, or rather collected, in all the districts of Aheer; but
+it is cheap now, and does not fetch the price in Tripoli which it
+formerly did; many other as suitable purgatives being found in Europe, I
+suppose. Senna is, besides, procured from the district of the Tibboos of
+Bilma, and some of this is still sent to Tripoli. Bornou has also much
+senna, but it does not pay the expense of forwarding it to Tripoli.
+
+The relations of man and wife in Aheer are curious, if not
+extraordinary. A woman never leaves the home of her father! When a man
+marries a woman, he remains with her a few weeks, and then, if he will
+not take up his residence in the town or village of his wife, he must
+return to his own place without her. When a man sees a woman who pleases
+him, he offers the parents a price for her--say, four camels. If the
+parents agree that the price is adequate to the charms or the rank of
+their daughter, the bargain is concluded. These four camels remain
+always the property of the wife, with which she supports herself,
+sending them to Soudan or to Bilma, fetching ghaseb or salt. Many of the
+women have a large property obtained in this way. When their husbands
+visit them, they give them something to eat, and they remain a few days
+or weeks; and again depart to their own native towns, leaving the wife
+with her property, and any chance lover. But the men marry two or three
+wives, and so are constantly in motion, first going to visit one wife
+and then another. Thus the male population of this country is kept in a
+continually restless state of activity--roaming about here and there,
+marrying another and another wife, if their means will permit them. The
+women, of course, left in this way, and unrestrained by any high moral
+motives, take as many lovers as they dare, or can secretly dispose of.
+It appears that En-Noor always disapproved of this strange system, and
+swore he would never marry a wife, because he should be obliged to go to
+another town to reside there, and so be exposed to having an inferior
+position, the authorities of the town of his wife pretending to exercise
+jurisdiction over him. All his women have ever been slaves. His highness
+is now living amidst his daughters and their children--the men who
+married them being all away in their own native countries. A daughter of
+En-Noor costs ten camels, and this is considered a very high price for a
+woman. With two or three camels, a woman manages to support herself and
+children. If the husbands of En-Noor's daughters be ever so poor, he
+never gives them anything but a little food. They must come and reside
+in his town. His highness passes all his evenings amidst this circle of
+women--his female slaves, his daughters, and granddaughters.
+
+The population of Gouber and Maradee together may be about 1500.
+
+_Mărádee_, capital of Maradee, and residence of the Siriki.
+
+_Jinubakai_ is the second division of the country, inhabited wholly by
+the pagans or gia-drinkers (beer-drinkers); not, therefore, Mahometans.
+
+_Gouber_ (Gubar), is the name of the country, of which the capital and
+residence of the sultan is _Chibri_. This country consists of a large
+city (Chibri), and several small villages, some fifty or sixty; two are
+here mentioned, Gomer and Sanna.
+
+These two countries of Gouber and Maradee are now in alliance against
+the Sultan of Sakkatou, i.e. of the Fellatahs, and mutually inflict
+razzias upon one another. Tesaoua is in close connexion with these
+ancient Kohlan countries, and is, indeed, a province of Maradee. There
+are mixed up with the population a number of people, emigrants from
+Aheer, called Buzai; but these Aheer Tuaricks have lost both their
+language and nationality, retaining merely the name, to denote their
+origin. So, in all probability, were more people and of other countries
+to emigrate to Soudan, they would soon become Soudanee, and lose their
+nationality. In these countries of Soudan above-mentioned, Mahommedanism
+has been but lately professed. But the great distinguishing mark between
+paganism and Mahommedanism appears to be the drinking or not drinking
+gia, the latter being the people who of course abstain from this
+intoxicating beverage.
+
+Overweg says, that within three-quarters of an hour's walk are found
+hereabout granite, sandstone, and basalt, a variety of stones somewhat
+remarkable.
+
+The study of _sau_, "footsteps" of men and animals, is quite a science
+in this part of the world. The Fezzanee are reckoned the most expert in
+this knowledge; they are said to be able to distinguish the footsteps of
+people when printed upon the trunk of a palm, the print-step being made
+by dipping the feet in water! As to animals, the people observe near the
+neighbouring rocks the sau of the lion--a very deep, heavy impression of
+his five claws, of the monkey, the hare, the gazelle, the fox, the
+jackal, the hyæna, the mouse, &c. &c. Indeed, we appear to be
+surrounded with animals; and in the morning I found the sau of the dog,
+the cat, the hare, and the mouse, on the sandy floor of my tent. It is
+my intention, before I leave Africa, to draw the forms of the footsteps
+of the more remarkable animals. _Inshallah!_
+
+_4th._--Visit from his highness the Sheikh every day. He is now kind
+enough to send me every morning--at the suggestion of his principal
+wife--a small can of milk, which, besides the value of the milk itself,
+saves my sugar, enabling me to drink tea and coffee without sweetening.
+This evening the _shara_ was brought of the arrival of couriers from the
+salt-caravan, to say it was near. Like the Arabs, for this shara or
+news, or first advice of the coming of something good or agreeable, the
+Kailouees ask some present. We gave a little bit of sugar to the slave
+who brought the welcome intelligence.
+
+_Dec. 5th to 9th._--I was occupied with vocabulary of Haussa and Bornou.
+Weather mild and misty, but a little cold this morning; thermometer, at
+three-quarters of an hour after sunrise, 43°.
+
+Nearly all the salt-caravan has arrived, and proceeded in advance,
+coming in small detachments. They rendezvous in a fine wady full of
+herbage, with water higher up. We are expected to leave in a few days,
+three or four at most. Nothing seems now to detain En-Noor. But the
+Fadeea have returned from the Hagar, finding themselves not pursued.
+They very naturally prefer their own fine valley in Asben to the stony,
+desert wilds of Hagars. I suppose a razzia will be executed against
+them, for the restoration of the camels of Tintaghoda, on the return of
+the salt-caravan from Soudan.
+
+En-Noor gives a tremendously unfavourable account of the Oulimad, who
+occupy the desert of Sahara between Aghadez and Timbuctoo, and keep the
+road there shut against caravans. He says, they would sleep in our tents
+in the day, eat and drink with us; but in the night they would carry
+away the tent, and make themselves clothing with it. In fact, En-Noor
+considers them the veriest barbarians in this region of Africa. There
+may be a little exaggeration in this, and the Oulimad may not be worse
+than the Hagars of Ghemâma, or even than some of his own people. The
+Kailouees do not hunt, nor do they cultivate the soil; so that this
+country abounds with animals. Some of the country is extremely wild and
+rocky, and affords many a retired den for the lions, who descend from
+the rocks and prowl abroad for prey in great numbers. Their footmarks
+frequently cover the length and breadth of the wadys. Barth himself saw
+(very fortunately, for it is a sight seen by very few persons indeed) as
+many as five together. Monkeys also abound in great numbers. I related
+to En-Noor the anecdote, as a joke, of the monkey shaving the cat in
+Paris; but this he took seriously, for he observed, "That is nothing; I
+have seen the monkeys crack lice just like men." It is always a
+difficult matter to translate a joke to these people. Overweg has been
+out these last two days hunting for ostrich eggs, in the places which
+these birds frequent. He saw their footprints, dung, feathers, &c., and
+two specimens, but found no eggs. It appears this is a most difficult
+bird to catch.
+
+En-Noor continues to be very friendly. I get milk now every morning, for
+which I pay sugar and coffee. His highness and his people went out
+yesterday to dig a well, about two hours distant. All the water in this
+place is exhausted. It appears to be merely a deposit of rain-water
+under the sand, at a depth of from four or five to eight feet. It
+becomes, as in this case, entirely exhausted before the commencement of
+the next rains; but of course there are some springs, and many wells
+which are not dried up during the whole year.
+
+N.B.--If I remain a month at Zinder, I must make a little excursion
+amongst the Bornou villages and see the rustic life of the people; but I
+fear it will be a bad place to hear the pure Bornouese language. I still
+hope to go off early to Sakkatou, and finish quickly with Soudan. In
+these matters the Germans are better off than I am, and have not to wait
+for money.[10]
+
+ [10] Nearly the whole of this long account of a residence in
+      Aheer consists in the journals of Mr. Richardson of
+      disjointed fragments, jotted down almost without any
+      connexion. This was necessarily the case. Few incidents,
+      save an occasional visit from thieves, or a dispute with
+      that strange old gentleman, Sultan En-Noor, diversified
+      this period. However, the simple commonplace book of a
+      traveller in a totally new country can never be without its
+      interest. No doubt Mr. Richardson would have attempted, had
+      he survived, to throw all these observations into a
+      picture; but any attempt to do so on my part would have
+      probably resulted in the omission of characteristic traits,
+      and the introduction of extraneous ideas. The following
+      chapters appear to me to increase in interest, page by
+      page.--ED.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+Razzia on the Fadeea--Haussa--Names of Places--Ant-track--Circular
+Letter from Mourzuk--Vast Rock--Mustapha Bey's Letter--Effects of
+Water--Butterflies--Aspect of the Country--A Slave advanced
+to Honour--Shonshona--Herbage--Birds--Appearance of the
+Salt-Caravan--Colours of Dawn--Bilma Salt--Mode of Barter--Pass the Rock
+of Mari--Granite--Indigo Plant--Presents at Stamboul--The Sultan begs
+again--Old Men's Importunities--Baghzem--Curiosities of the
+Route--People of Damerghou--Temporary Village of Women--Country begins
+to open--Barter Transaction with Lady En-Noor.
+
+
+_Dec. 10th._--I rose before the sunrise; the coldest morning we have
+had; thermometer at half-an-hour after sunrise, 38°.
+
+It is reported that we leave here to-morrow, or the day following. There
+is arrived from Aghadez the first man of that city after the sultan,
+called Amagai. He is come here respecting the affairs of the Fadeea.
+En-Noor also asked to-day for a list of all the things taken by force
+from us on the frontiers. It appears the Sultan of Aghadez had captured
+the Sheikh of the Fadeea, or some one sheikh, and allowed him to go out
+of prison on the promise that he would restore all the things taken from
+us--but not to us; so these Sultans and Sheikhs of Aheer will probably
+get all these things back, and divide the spoil. But, nevertheless, it
+is better that the people in authority should have them, than that they
+should remain in the possession of the robbers, the lawless plundering
+tribes of the frontier. Probably these people will be more cautious how
+they plunder another caravan of Christians. It will always be a
+satisfaction to us that the robbers were made to disgorge their booty. I
+have also heard that a small camel was brought in exchange for my large
+lost one; and En-Noor sent it back, ordering them to restore the large
+camel of the boat. My camel has been to fetch salt from Bilma.
+
+The children call Tesaoua, and the countries thereabout, Haussa, and say
+it is near, and that they go on donkeys. From this it is certain this
+portion of Soudan still has the ancient name of Haussa. Afaou is merely
+the Bornou name for Haussa, there being no place or district of that
+name. All these countries have most of them two names, or two
+pronunciations of the same name; one by the natives, and one by the
+Moorish merchants and other strangers. Thus the village of En-Noor is
+called by strangers Tintalous, and by the people themselves Chintullus.
+Travellers had better adhere to the name the place has amongst the
+strangers and foreign merchants, otherwise their narrative might be
+questioned by the people abroad, who do not know the native name.
+Maradee has its native name of Mariadi, but if you were to mention this
+name in Mourzuk and Tripoli none would know the country of which you
+were speaking. In fact, it is just the same as calling Florence Firenza,
+when speaking to persons who have not travelled in Tuscany, or who are
+unacquainted with Italian. I continue much occupied with the Bornouese
+and Haussa languages, and am now collecting the names of insects and
+animals. This is extremely difficult, as for many of the animals of
+Soudan there are no Arabic names.
+
+I measured an ant-track, and found it 125 feet. The ants were fetching
+the cottony dried blossom of a withered plant, and were amazingly busy.
+The tracks did not wind much. I noticed, also, in my walk, the footmarks
+of hares and many other animals. This country is full of live things.
+
+_11th._--I rose before sunrise; this is the coldest morning I have yet
+had, according to the thermometer, which was only two degrees above the
+freezing point (34°).
+
+A circular letter arrived to-day from Aghadez, addressed to all the
+Tuaricks, written by Mustapha Bey of Mourzuk, recommending them to
+render us all necessary protection. It is dated back two months.
+Probably this letter was written on account of the unfavourable
+intelligence which reached Mourzuk respecting us. To-morrow, please God,
+we start for Soudan.
+
+_12th._--Thank God! we left our encampment of Chintagawna this morning.
+And oh, most gracious God! give us a prosperous journey, and may we be
+useful to ourselves and our fellow-creatures.
+
+We started about eleven o'clock, and went on about three hours and
+a-half. The day was very cool; the thermometer in the morning, at
+sunrise, being only three degrees above the freezing-point. We expect to
+see the water freeze on the high plains through which we are about to
+pass, before arriving at Damerghou. Our encampment is a pleasant wady,
+under a conical-formed rock of considerable elevation, perhaps 1500
+feet. We are also in a high situation, some 1000 or more feet above the
+level of the sea. There is near this rock a lower one of an oblong form,
+its sides fluted with pillars; these columnar masses are basalt. Dr.
+Overweg examined the rocks, and found the outer crust a new species of
+rock, a sort of trachite or brachite; and the interior a sort of basalt,
+or volcanic substance. The large rock is also of the same formation. Dr.
+Barth ascended the large rock.
+
+I am now told that I made a great mistake about the wording of the
+circular letter of Mustapha Bey. This letter begins by thanking the
+Tuaricks of Aheer for exterminating the Walad Suleiman! It then hints
+broadly at the necessity for the Turks in Mourzuk and the Tuaricks of
+Aheer being friends; and to maintain this friendship one important
+condition is required--that they, the Tuaricks of Aheer, shall protect
+all the merchants or other travellers passing through their country, and
+coming from Mourzuk. In the event of their committing a bad action, the
+Bey says he may be compelled to make reprisals; so it is quite clear the
+letter is written entirely on our account, and perhaps is a preliminary
+measure to making reprisals. _Nous verrons._ This letter is only
+addressed to the people of Aheer.
+
+If water be the sustaining and even the generative force of vegetation
+in the desert, it is also the destruction of trees and herbage; for
+along the line of the current of the wady are seen immense numbers of
+dead and overthrown trees, torn from their roots by the force of the
+water in the rainy season. En-Noor paid me a visit this afternoon, and
+took a nap in my tent.
+
+_13th._--We rose early, but did not start till about nine o'clock. This
+was the coldest day we have yet experienced: the heavens were overcast
+with clouds. We came five hours; our course irregular, but always
+south-east; the track through wadys filled with the usual trees of the
+tholukh species. Yesterday were seen numbers of large butterflies, but
+to-day, on account of the cold, few. Flies innumerable follow the
+caravan. The rocks were, as yesterday, many conic-formed, and others
+rounded or appearing in ranges, like huge haycocks: granite, sandstone,
+and trachite. We have in the distance before us, a peculiarly shaped
+rock of considerable height, called _Mari_, in the midst of a range. We
+are encamped in the bed of an immense broad valley, and camels are
+feeding about in considerable numbers. The salt-caravan is very near. We
+are not yet in the regular caravan route, _viâ_ Asoudee, but expect to
+reach it after to-morrow. En-Noor has with him as a guest the principal
+man of Aghadez, before mentioned. This man was once a slave, but by his
+address has risen thus high, as the slaves frequently do in Turkey: so
+widely do similar manners prevail. Many slaves in Soudan rise to the
+highest consequence.
+
+The _shonshona_ (or practice of scarifying the face or neck) prevails
+everywhere in Bornou, Soudan, and all this part of Africa; the Tuaricks
+and Fellatahs being the only people who abstain from this barbarous
+practice. Each device of scarifying denotes the peculiar nation of the
+blacks. I have now got three sketches of faces thus disfigured, and
+shall get as many as I can.
+
+The Mahommedans of the coast usually teach that this way of marking the
+body is a sin, but nevertheless the black Muslims will not abandon the
+peculiarities of their nation.
+
+_14th._--Started early, but made only two hours and a-quarter, through
+the expansive valleys of yesterday. Here we found the salt-caravan,
+there being in this place abundance of room, herbage, and a large well,
+all necessary for such an assembly of people and beasts. On the road we
+put up a covey of partridges, and a splendid solitary bird, the _hobara_
+of Soudan. Footprints of the hares and of the gazelle were observed _en
+route_.
+
+By this opportunity we have got a few dates from Bilma; but they are
+very poor, some of them little better than dried wood. The salt-caravan
+has nothing attractive. The salt is all tied up in small bales or
+bundles, the outward wrapper being matting or platting of strips of the
+leaves of the doom-palm, called by the people _kabba_. Our caravan
+resembles the march of a wandering tribe, there being camels, sheep,
+oxen, asses, dogs, with all the paraphernalia of tents, cooking
+utensils, &c. Some of the animals are laden, some unladen, playing,
+running, and skipping about. Then come the human animals, men, women,
+and children of every age. Our own caravan is mostly composed of the
+household and slaves of En-Noor, with two or three strangers. But now
+all changes to the salt-caravan, and we shall probably be soon absorbed
+in it.
+
+Yesterday morning I observed the dawn of day, and witnessed a degree of
+redness and red clouds, or, more poetically, rosy-tinted clouds, which I
+never before observed in all the Sahara. Probably now the sky will
+change to a colouring more like England. Sunset and sunrise in the
+Sahara are essentially different from those of England, the colours in
+the desert being exceedingly light and bright; and often in the summer
+time, at daybreak, there is a full, blazing sun in the course of three
+quarters of an hour; so that, that rich colouring of the summer's dawn
+in England is never here observed.
+
+I visited the salt-caravan, or that portion of it which belongs to
+En-Noor. The salt is prepared in Bilma, by the Tibboos, in three
+different manners. There is, first, the _canto_, a kind of pillar or
+pedestal, about 16 inches high, and 3 or 4 broad in its widest part. As
+to weight, 10 of these are a good camel-load, 8 a load for a small
+camel, and 6 for a weak camel. Then there are two cakes, one of refined
+salt and the other coarse. These coarse cakes are about 5 inches in
+diameter, and the refined ones 7 inches, the former being about 3lbs.
+and the latter 5lbs. in weight. When a caravan of Tuaricks arrive at
+Bilma, they find the salt all ready for them, and they pay a barter for
+it in this way,--a zekka of ghaseb is exchanged against twenty of the
+coarse cakes; a zekka for six of the refined cakes, and three zekkas of
+ghaseb for two of the pillars. Ghaseb appears to be the only staple
+thing which the Tibboos receive for their salt; they may also take now
+and then turkadias, or black turbans, and on the other side the Tuaricks
+bring a few dates with them: the fruit, even those of the best quality,
+are not very good or fine. This commerce of barter is managed almost
+solely by the women: the men remain in their houses, whilst the women go
+to the salt-pits or lakes, and transact this important business; but the
+men do not run away, as is commonly reported. At least, so say the
+Tuaricks. The supply of salt is inexhaustible. It is, probably, on
+account of the weight of the salt, and the fatigue of the camels which
+carry it, with the distance, that this commerce is not very profitable
+to the Tuaricks; but this can only be ascertained in the markets of
+Kanou, and other large cities of Soudan. There are only six months to
+the rainy season, so I have just time to go to Sakkatou and return,
+without waiting long at any of the intermediate places between Sakkatou
+and Kuka.
+
+Our encampment is under some rocks, where are seen the dens of lions. At
+the mouth of these caves or holes are bones of animals and the dung of
+the lions.
+
+_15th._--I rose early, but we did not start till two hours after
+sunrise. The caravan was a considerable time in loading. We have only
+with us En-Noor's detachment of the salt-caravan, about 130 camels. We
+may be quicker in our movements to-morrow. The first morning of starting
+is always thus slow. We came to-day five hours: passed the picturesque
+rock Mari, like a camel couchant, and entered after three hours the
+Asoudee route, or the direct caravan route from Ghât to Damerghou,
+through Aheer. Another detachment of the salt-caravan passed or crossed
+us, and took another route to the east. Our course was always
+southwards, now S.E. now S.W., through wadys filled with trees, mostly
+tholukh and its varieties; the rocks were all granite. Aheer appears to
+be a region essentially of granite, although here and there are volcanic
+cones striking up, composed of basalt, or a variety of this stone. The
+weather was very cloudy and cold, only a little warm in the middle of
+the day. We have not come to water or wells for three days, because our
+journeys are very short. To-day I saw, for the first time, the indigo
+plant--_neela_ in Arabic, and _bala_ in Soudanese. I was glad to make
+its acquaintance. It grows amongst the other herbage, and may be easily
+confounded with it as a common herb. It is now in seed, the pods being
+small and very hard. This is one of the products capable of working the
+regeneration of Africa, if Africa is to be civilised by legitimate
+commerce.
+
+En-Noor asked to-day if, on entering Constantinople, we English made
+presents. I told him very positively, "No;" but, on the contrary,
+everything which the English demanded of the Sultan of the Turks he did
+for us; and because the Sultan was weak, England was obliged to protect
+him against the encroachments of the other Christian nations.
+
+I was much surprised to hear to-day that En-Noor begged a black burnouse
+from Barth. The old Sheikh is a Tuarick every inch of him. Nevertheless,
+it is too bad to beg the things which we wear to protect us from the
+cold and the heat. Barth, I believe, has not yet made the Sheikh a
+present, and he is coming Hateetah over my worthy friend. Overweg has
+given the Sheikh a cloth jacket, which he could ill spare. I feel most
+determinedly disposed to give nothing more; but in justice I have to
+add, that his highness sends regularly the milk in the morning, that he
+gave me a piece of gour-nut on the road, and that he sent me a few dates
+at my request! These are great things for Tuaricks; so, "patience."
+
+_16th._--I rose at daylight; the cold was moderate, morning foggy as
+yesterday. People say we shall be only nine days from this going to
+Damerghou, but I will give them twelve. All the old men in this country
+apply to the Taleb for medicine to restore their powers. They very
+unwillingly relinquish the exercise of the functions which give them
+most delight; but nature is stronger than all things, and they must
+submit to its inevitable course. In a country like Africa, where woman
+is only thought of for one purpose, it chagrins these old fellows to see
+all their nice plump slave-girls about them, and to find themselves past
+and gone, so far as this state of existence is concerned. En-Noor and
+Hateetah both made this kind of application to the Taleb. When I was
+alone in my former journey in the desert, I had also the same kind of
+experience.
+
+We came two hours to-day to the well of Anfesas, before the mountain of
+Baghzem. Our course was through valleys and rocks, as yesterday, and,
+indeed, always in this country; for there is very little variation in
+the landscape. Baghzem, instead of being the high mountain pictured to
+me by the Ghadamsee merchants, is, at this view of it, only a low range.
+Two little things observed to-day were, first, a "traveller's sharpening
+stone," on which every person passing by sharpened his dagger or his
+sword: next, were heaps of sand scraped together, and sticks or stalks
+of herbage stuck on the top, as frail marks of the route, corresponding
+to the heaps of stone which mark in line the routes of the Sahara. There
+was also a mosque formed of boughs of trees; that is, a low wall of the
+groundplan of a mosque made of boughs of trees, like the walls of stone
+in other places. The trees were as before, always those full of thorns,
+like the tholukh; many of the species bearing what is called the date of
+this country. No animals of game were seen, except a solitary hare; but
+there were marks of the foot of the mohur, or large gazelle.
+
+The lading of the camels in the morning takes always an hour and a-half:
+we have few people, compared with the number of beasts of burden.
+
+However, under the leadership of En-Noor, who has now decked himself in
+a fine yellow burnouse, a sort of ensign of authority, the caravan
+marches in great order and tranquillity.
+
+The inhabitants of Damerghou are said to be a mixture of Kohlans and
+Tuaricks; the latter, however, receding into the interior. But if the
+Tuaricks have dispossessed the Kohlans, they have almost become Kohlans
+themselves, forgetting their own language and their own customs and
+manners. This would naturally result from their habit of taking female
+slaves from Soudan. Women, of course, always teach their children their
+own language. In this way the population becomes in a few years
+amalgamated, the blacks with Tuaricks.
+
+_17th._--We stopped here all day, occupied with Bornouese. The place is
+pleasant enough, there being a good well of water. A little temporary
+village stands near, composed of the women and children belonging to the
+salt-caravan.
+
+_18th._--We halted again another day. After this rest of three days for
+the camels, we are to go on quicker. Overweg paid a visit to the
+temporary village, principally to see the women, taking with him the
+Mâlem Ibrahim. He was pleasantly received, and notes the fact as the
+first specimen of Soudan hospitality. I also made an excursion of an
+hour to a neighbouring eminence, where I had a view from the top of a
+quartz rock of the surrounding landscape of stony hills and valleys. On
+the east and west were ranges and groups of mountains; on the north-east
+and towards Bilma, and on the south-west round the mountain of Baghzem,
+the country appeared open. North and south were rocks. In the direction
+of our route (south-east) the rocks seem scattered and at wide
+distances, so I expect we shall soon bid farewell to the mountains of
+Aheer. The celebrated mount of Baghzem is a mighty mass of rock, not
+high, but apparently of immense breadth. The town of Baghzem is on the
+western side, and out of our route.
+
+I had a little clandestine transaction with Madame En-Noor to-day. She
+sent me cheese and milk, and I sent her a ring. The slaves brought the
+cheese stealthily: so, I suppose, the Sultan was not to know of it. But
+they say that all the goats belong to the women, and, consequently, the
+milk and cheese; but the camels to the men; some women, however, have
+camels. There is a sort of division of male and female property in this
+country.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+We continue our Journey--Huntsmen--Gum on the Tholukhs--The
+Salt-Caravan--A Bunch of Gum--Games among the
+Slaves--Baghzem--Trees--Palm of Pharaoh--Deserted Villages--Birds'
+Nests--Wife of En-Noor--Unan--Lizards--Bad News--Christmas
+day in Africa--Christmas-boxes--Begging Tuaricks
+again--Bargot--Musicians--Speculations--Tribes at War--Parasitical
+Plant--Importance of Salt--Animals--Agalgo--Force of the Caravan--Beat
+of Drum--Approach the Hamadah--Giraffes--Poisoned Arrows--Ear of
+Ghaseb--Soudan and Bornou Roads.
+
+
+_Dec. 19th._--We started early, and journeyed on eight hours and
+a-half--the best day we have had since leaving Tintalous. Our course
+still towards that immense block of mountain, the celebrated Baghzem. We
+are now encamped along its side. We crossed a large wady with
+ancient-looking trees, having antiquity, in fact, stamped on their
+trunks, all of the tholukh species. The sand of this desert is covered
+with the footsteps or marks of the gazelle and hare; but we saw only one
+gazelle and one hare. The gazelle was followed by a stupid mongrel-bred
+dog; it jumped high in the air, and was soon out of sight. The Kailouees
+are no huntsmen. I question whether they have ever caught a gazelle or
+any full-grown animal in their lives; they are a stupid set, and their
+dogs worse still in field-sport, though always living in the desert.
+There are huntsmen amongst the Haghars. The Kailouees prefer running
+down men, or rather women. All they think of is riding or straying from
+place to place after the women--this is their sport.
+
+This may be called a country of dry wadys. The name is appropriate all
+the year round, except on the few days when the floods are seen pouring
+down these seeming beds of rivers. Hereabouts are the largest tholukh
+and other trees found in Aheer. Those that grow on high ground are
+small, but from their trunks are picked off, by the slaves, pieces of
+gum. To-day, however, I could not succeed in getting a piece. What was
+found was carried to En-Noor. I shall soon get a taste of it. We
+continue with our same number of camels; no other detachments of the
+large salt-caravan have yet joined us. En-Noor is still very active,
+riding before and behind, seeing that all is right. He is followed by
+his shadow. He wears his yellow burnouse. I have heard of no town on
+this side of Baghzem.
+
+An immense quantity of stone is scattered over the route hereabouts.
+Overweg believes it to be basalt, or a species of volcanic stone of
+similar character.
+
+I am preparing myself for my Soudan journeys, and, _en route_, take as
+much rest as possible. Cold winds prevail night and morning, but the sun
+burns a few hours in the day. Certainly now is the best season for
+travelling in this country. What it is in Soudan it is impossible to
+tell.
+
+_20th._--We rested to-day. There is a well a short distance off, called
+Tilya. This morning early filed by a large division of the salt-caravan,
+about three hundred camels. We passed them yesterday. They had also a
+little merchandise besides salt. Some of the people inquired of me if I
+had found my camels. I told them two were still missing. They were all
+strangers, but were, nevertheless, civil. I made a short excursion in
+search of gum amongst the tholukh-trees. I was fortunate enough to find
+one piece, or, rather, a small bunch of pellucid drops, of a bright
+amber-colour. The bunch was scarcely exuding from the tree on which it
+was found, and was ready to drop when touched, hanging by the slenderest
+connexion. It was even somewhat disposed to become liquid. This gum is
+found only on the small young trees. The taste was very pleasant. It is
+astonishing how little gum has been picked off these trees by our
+people, although we have passed tens of thousands of them _en route_.
+
+The slaves of the caravan were having a game amongst themselves this
+morning. They brought into my tent a man bound as dead, and I was
+obliged to pay a handkerchief to relieve myself of the bad omen. Such a
+thing is considered a horrible thing if you do not buy away the ill
+effects of it. This is certainly an easy way of collecting money and
+goods. It was, however, amusing to see the fellow, how still he lay;
+truly it was as still as death. The ceremony itself arose out of the
+culprit, or man bound, having lost our camels, a circumstance which has
+detained us here to-day. The herdsman was thus punished for his neglect;
+and so all these African people have an amusing way of turning their
+misfortunes into fun, as well as of making a profit out of them. I have
+already observed before, that every misfortune we have suffered has been
+a benefit to the Kailouees. This has made them so careless about what
+might happen to us.
+
+_21st._--Our course was generally nearly south, but often a little
+winding. Baghzem was always on our right, until we left it behind us, on
+the north-west. This mountain has, probably, been so much celebrated in
+all past times, because it is the most conspicuous object on the return
+route from the south to the north. Overweg conjectures that it is
+granite. He had no servant at hand yesterday to visit it with him, and
+he did not like to go alone, because it swarms with lions.
+
+We passed to-day mostly through undulating country, a sort of ground
+which, in the Sahara, lies generally between the plateaux and the high
+rocky ranges. From one of the lesser heights we had a magnificent view
+of Baghzem. We passed also through and along several fine wadys, lined
+with ancient trees. Perhaps, in some places, full half of the trees were
+decayed, and many only naked stumps. The trees were so thick in certain
+places as to deserve the name of forests--primeval forests--but, I
+imagine, not to be compared with those of America.
+
+Amongst the trees to-day appeared most conspicuously the doom-palm. This
+is the first day we have seen it in such numbers. This "palm of
+Pharaoh," as the Moors call it, according to their habit of coupling all
+strange things with those ancient monarchs, is found in groups as well
+as isolated trees. When isolate, and also when in groups, it very
+frequently assumes a double-shaped trunk, or two large arms spread out
+or divided from a low stump.[11] Of the leaves, which are called
+_gabba_, the people make all their rope.
+
+ [11] I believe the trunk of the doom is always thus divided and
+      subdivided.--ED.
+
+These trees are now laden with fruit, not ripe. The abundance of them
+gives to the place of our encampment a truly tropical aspect. We
+journeyed on to-day eight hours and a-half--a good, fair day. The
+weather was warm, even a little sultry. As to inhabitants, we passed
+many isolated huts, but saw no villages in groups. We also passed the
+ruins of many villages, whose houses were better built than any I have
+yet seen in this part of Aheer. This country has seen its best days; for
+the huts which now take the place of these houses, high and well-built
+of stone and mud, are, indeed, miserable. Probably these deserted places
+are some of the towns whose people were carried off to Bornou in the
+recent razzias. At the bottom of most of the wadys to-day, water was
+found at a foot depth, though not a copious supply. People were at the
+wells in numbers, watering their cattle.
+
+En-Noor paid me another attention to-day, when on camel-back, in
+presenting to me a piece of gour-nut. This is considered a very great
+compliment. As to the fruit itself, I have not yet acquired the taste;
+it is only agreeable if you are thirsty, and after chewing it drink
+water.
+
+_22d._--We remain here to-day. It is not so cold as it has been.
+
+I am sorry Madame En-Noor has left off the milk, though I never cease to
+send coffee twice a-day. I must now, however, send but once, as my sugar
+is getting low.
+
+I observed the beautiful bird's nest which I mentioned the other day. It
+is a perfect piece of architecture, far superior to the huts made in
+this country. The only apparent deficiency is, that it seems to hang on
+nothing, or is suspended sometimes on a slender straw, at other times on
+a thin twig. The nest is built of straw inside and outside, but the
+inside is of a finer straw. I have not seen the bird who is the
+architect of this wonderful piece of mechanism. I observed two species
+of parasitical plants, one of which has a slender trunk, and has its
+root in the earth; and the other, which is entirely dependent on the
+tree over which it spreads for all its support and nourishment. Its
+roots are in the very boughs of the tree which bears it. Some of our
+blacks, who were carried over the desert when young, and had not seen or
+observed this phenomenon before, burst out laughing. These comicalities
+of vegetation amused them exceedingly. What excites the serious
+attention of cultivated minds often produces only laughter in vulgar and
+untutored people. Parasitical plants would be a complete study for the
+botanist here. The doom-tree has a smaller and rounder-shaped head than
+the common date-palm; the leaves are spread out very like a fan, but I
+know not whether the doom is called the fan-shaped palm.
+
+We are to stay at this place some time--there appears to be no hurry. We
+shall probably be here three days more. The Sultan of Asoudee is
+visiting amongst us, and has concerted with En-Noor that all the
+caravans shall go together, in order that no one portion of it shall
+arrive before the other in Damerghou, and so get the ghaseb cheaper; as,
+of course, the early arrivals generally get the better bargains. At
+first I could not understand the reason of our all going together; now
+the thing is clear enough.
+
+En-Noor called at my tent in the evening, and was very civil. I got a
+little milk afterwards for the tea sent him. The royal family appear now
+to be short of milk. I find that his royal highness has in reality only
+one wife, who is a slave. In an African point of view, however, even
+this is too much. His highness confessed to Overweg that God gave man
+his limited time in this as in all things. Had the beating I have
+recorded any relation to this bitter reflection?
+
+When the sun is down, the landscape around begins to look like Old
+England, the species of trees not being visible. The doom reminds me of
+the shorn elms along the hedges.
+
+_23d._--The Sultan of Asoudee sent this morning for powder, and was
+thankful for a small quantity. We remained here this day. All the
+valleys and country around are called _Unan_. This is also the name of a
+well near us, but water is usually obtained by scooping out the sand in
+the bed of the valleys, and there are few regular wells; those which are
+dug are destroyed as soon as the rain returns. Such alone remain entire
+as are out of the reach, or beyond the range of the periodic floods.
+
+_24th._--We were not to come on to-day; but En-Noor changed his mind,
+and we journeyed on five hours, up the valley of Unan. The eternal
+sameness of the tholukh and doom--for dooms are now in great
+numbers--would be wearisome, had we not had so much desert before; but
+we are still delighted with the continual occurrence of trees, be they
+of what species they may. There is, besides, a great abundance of wild
+water-melons, which the people sometimes eat. They are very small, but
+hard and sound. The lizard, which almost through the whole desert was
+found darting about and around the camels' feet, has now disappeared. It
+would be a curious inquiry for a naturalist to endeavour to account for
+its disappearance, for the nature of the soil has not so much changed.
+The only difference--but perhaps this is great for the lizard--is that
+hereabouts occur periodic rains, which deluge the land for a few days in
+the year; and during these few days, probably, all the land lizards
+found in low places would be destroyed.
+
+This is Christmas-eve; a sorry one for us all! We receive no news but
+bad news. For to-day a man came up to us, who said he left Tripoli three
+months ago, and that the cholera had been very severe in Tripoli, making
+many victims; but he brought no particular news for us. He came by the
+way of Ghadamez and Ghât, and yet had heard nothing of our misfortunes
+on the frontier. I suppose the people of Ghât had already ceased to talk
+about us and our affairs; for here in the desert, as elsewhere, things
+are soon forgotten. We saw little of the rest of the caravan _en route_,
+but if we ever see the whole of the camels going with us, and the
+division of Aghadez, I am quite sure they will never reach the
+exaggerated number of 10,000! All numbers are dreadfully exaggerated in
+Africa.
+
+_25th._--Christmas-day! My second Christmas day in Africa during this
+journey. We have nothing to make a merry day of; but we must try and
+cheer ourselves up by the thought that we are still spared, after
+passing through so many dangers, and amidst a people naturally hostile
+to us, and only softened by fear of the Turks, and by possession of the
+goods of the Government, which they have taken one way or other. Yet
+some of the people appear of a more kindly nature, and Overweg has
+experienced a little hospitality in the huts retired from the road, or
+sequestered in the surrounding valleys.
+
+Gracious God! make us all thankful for health and strength: may we ever
+praise thy protecting care of us and our mission. For the sake of our
+Saviour, born on this day, pardon all our sins; give us grace to lead a
+new life, and a most willing mind to receive Jesus as the Lord our
+righteousness! O God, have mercy upon all our friends and relations, and
+give them the will to receive the Saviour, born on this day, as their
+only chance of salvation! O God, have mercy upon Africa, and on all men!
+
+Some musicians came this morning to salute us with a little of their
+rough music, a drum and a clarionet. I gave them three rings and a
+little sugar. I have very little to bestow, and were I to be more
+generous, or to make an effort to give them anything like a Christmas
+gift, I should then have all the people upon me, begging everything I
+had left. Yesterday I spoke a few words to Hamma, son-in-law of En-Noor,
+and he immediately asked me for a turban. I had not spoken to him for
+several weeks, or only saluted him with a few words, in order to avoid
+his begging. This man has already had from me presents to the amount of
+fifty dollars! Thus I am cut off from all conversation with these
+people, and have no practice in speaking the languages of the interior.
+I must try to get on better than this. Overweg, as doctor, is better
+off. The sick, and the people who bring the sick, must talk to him, and
+must receive a favour from him. And he frequently gets a few cheeses in
+return. The women make extraordinary propositions. The other day they
+offered him a slave or a bullock for a medicine to produce a child.
+
+The place of our encampment is called Bargot, which I believe is also
+the name of a well, near or about an hour and a-half distant. I have
+also heard the name of Bergu. Yesterday we passed some ruins of houses,
+built of stone and mud. I am glad that Barth borrowed my Bible, and is
+reading to-day. Overweg also was the first to propose prayers on Sundays
+when we are staying long together in one place.
+
+We are now near the Hamadah, which is a journey of full four days
+without water. We arrive at the water on the morning only of the fifth
+day. I gave a Christmas-box to all the servants of the expedition, seven
+persons, each a cotton handkerchief and a ring. This is all I could
+spare. Yusuf had a silk handkerchief and no ring. The kind of ring
+esteemed here is one having a good imitation of a stone, and the metal
+is as good as gold for these people. With the exception of the Gatronee
+and my mahadee, the rest ill deserved their Christmas-box, but it is
+necessary to forget and to forgive. However, I am now more strict with
+them, as we are leaving the Tuaricks, amongst whom some of our servants
+became almost Tuaricks themselves in manners.
+
+The Sultan of Asoudee is still with us, and keeps up a sort of state
+about him, although he is a poor weak fellow indeed, compared to
+En-Noor. He has not paid us a visit, and we have not seen him. En-Noor,
+probably, does not wish to bother us with such a visit. The musicians
+who saluted us this morning came from him, but they did not know it was
+a feast-day of Christians, and only came to pick up what they could get.
+I sent Madame En-Noor a piece of white loaf-sugar, and told her it was a
+Christmas-box. She received it with many thanks; so I have chronicled
+all our doings this day. I read the two first chapters of St. Luke in
+Arabic. We had no provisions, or anything with which we could produce
+the resemblance of a plum-pudding. As to roast beef, we have some bits
+of preserved beef, which we eat with our baseen and hamsa.
+
+Amidst so many uncertainties in Central Africa we may not see another
+Christmas-day. O God! whenever the time of our departure is come, may we
+be found relying for salvation on that Saviour, thine only-begotten Son,
+born on this day.
+
+Overweg and I conversed late at night on the mechanism of the heavens,
+and the antiquity of the world, according to the received theories of
+astronomers and geologists; the dark and black vault above, sprinkled
+over with brilliant points, being the object which first set our
+thoughts in motion. The stars are time itself, and also illustrations of
+the passage of light through the universe. The earth was once a hotter
+orb, passing successively from a vaporous to a fluid, and then a solid
+state. The northern climes were once torrid zones, from the evidence of
+the fossil remains and from coals, which are masses of tropical trees.
+Such were the speculations in which we indulged.[12]
+
+ [12] I have not thought it advisable to abridge or alter this
+      _naïve_ account of a Christmas-day on the southern borders
+      of the Sahara. Mr. Richardson seems already to feel certain
+      presentiments of the fate that awaited him. In other places
+      I have omitted devotional passages; but in this it seemed
+      to me that it would be unjust to the memory of this amiable
+      traveller to do so.--ED.
+
+_26th._--We stay here to-day. There is some trouble amongst those
+restless tribes, the Kaltadak and Kalfadaï; and Yusuf was sent for this
+morning by En-Noor to write some letters for him to these marauding
+tribes. They are fighting amongst themselves. The route from the North
+will never be safe for Europeans until these tribes are properly
+subjugated; and when will that time come? It is now reported that we all
+go to Zinder. I shall be glad of this opportunity to get a few dollars,
+and then make the best of my way to Sakkatou. But our delay here renders
+this trip always less certain, and seems to point out that I shall go
+first to Bornou.
+
+The most frequent parasitical plant, which is found upon nearly all the
+tholukhs, is called _koushi_ in Haussa, and _barango_ in Bornou. It is a
+fine plant, and its flower is not unlike the woodbine or honeysuckle,
+but devoid of all fragrance. The leaves are succulent, full of moisture,
+in shape a long oval, the longest not more than an inch and a quarter.
+This parasite also fastens itself on other trees, and often kills the
+branches from which it draws its strength--a real sap-sucker. The
+karembo frequently dies in its embraces.
+
+Hamma, the son-in-law of En-Noor, is not to go with us, on account of
+the quarrels with the Kalfadaï and the Kaltadak. He is exceedingly
+disappointed, for it deprives him of making anything for himself in
+Haussa; and En-Noor keeps him very poor indeed, as his highness does
+everybody about him.
+
+The salt-caravan is the affair of life and death for Aheer; and the
+reason is now clear to me why it is that En-Noor goes every year with
+it, and directs and superintends its movements. This is the greatest
+service he can render to his country, and the Kailouees generally.
+Without this salt the population of Aheer would soon all perish, or
+emigrate to Soudan. The other commerce of the country could not suffice
+for the support of the inhabitants.
+
+_27th._--We had a visit from the people of the country before starting;
+they appear to be a fine race of men, whiter than most of the Kailouees,
+and nearly all tall. In these nomade districts the weakly children
+generally die off, leaving only the robust. We journeyed on southwards
+five hours, through wadys formed by the force of the waters, gradually
+approaching the great Hamadah. The doom now disappeared, and most of the
+trees dependent on much water; for here the wadys are all shallow.
+Footmarks of the ostrich, gazelle, hare, habara, and some other
+interesting animals, cover this portion of the desert. The gazelles have
+more room, and the ostriches also. The former, besides, are out of the
+way of the lion; for this beast seldom pursues its prey across the
+desert plains.
+
+People say we shall see many animals in the Hamadah, because the lion
+does not come there. A large gazelle was taken this evening by some of
+the caravan.
+
+A few locusts and many fine butterflies were busy about. We are encamped
+at a place called Agalgo, or Agallegu. There is a well at the distance
+of an hour; so that the number of days during which no water is found is
+reduced to three: but this water is a sort of collection from the rain
+remaining beyond its time, and is not always found.
+
+We are now on the edge of the plateau. En-Noor said to-day, "There are
+five thousand camels with us;" but I question whether there be more than
+two thousand. It is of great importance to ascertain this, for thus only
+the force of the country may be estimated. We are now said to be eight
+days from Damerghou.
+
+The Sultan of Asoudee has detained many of En-Noor's young people, to
+protect the country in case there be any troubles with the Kalfadaï.
+
+Several pieces of scoria, or lava, were found on the road, showing a
+district here once to have had active volcanoes. The granite begins to
+disappear, to be replaced by sandstone. This sandstone, generally,
+according to Overweg, forms plateaux; whereas granite is found in rocks
+and ridges in the midst of valleys.
+
+_28th._--We started early. The camels move on at the beginning of their
+day's work to the beating of the _kanga_, or drum. We have two or three
+drums, but the drummers have little skill, and the beating is always the
+same monotonous sound. Our course varied from S.E. to S.W., but lay
+always southward, through shallow valleys, or low, indented, or
+scooped-out plains; the whole country being what the people call
+_hamadah_, or plateau. All the large trees have disappeared with the
+doom-palm. Nevertheless there are everywhere the marks of water. Yet the
+rain cannot fall here so much as in the mountainous regions which we
+have left behind, for it is high ground only which brings down the rain
+in Africa; except, indeed, near the equator. As yesterday, the sand and
+soft earth are covered with the footmarks of gazelles, ostriches, the
+habara, and even the giraffe. The people, in fact, say we shall see the
+giraffe before we arrive at Damerghou. But of these animals, who have
+left thus the impression of their feet on the sand, we saw not one.
+Indeed it is quite a matter of luck to fall in with animals in the
+desert. I have seen but very few. My colleagues have both encountered
+lions and monkeys, neither of which have I seen.
+
+We have come to-day seven hours and a-half, a very good march for
+En-Noor. The nights are cold enough; there is also a fresh breeze,
+generally from north-east, every day: nevertheless, the sun burns hot.
+The sky has always now a few clouds, and the atmosphere is a little
+thick and misty. We have with us various queer characters; amongst the
+rest, a fellow who boasts of his having killed many people with poisoned
+arrows. When I come near him I always attack him, not, indeed, with his
+favourite weapon, but with irony. I tell him, "Ah! poisoned arrows kill
+many people.--What matters it?--There is no God" (looking up, and saying
+_Babo Allah!_) This has had its effect once or twice, and he has
+confessed it is not so very fine to kill people with poisoned arrows.
+
+Evening came on, but I heard nothing of water. We are encamped near a
+small hill. I looked to-day again attentively at our strings of camels.
+Instead of five thousand, I do not believe there are more than five
+hundred. We have few people with us in comparison with the number of
+camels, and these are many of them slaves of the masters who are
+remaining behind in Aheer. The disturbed state of the country has
+prevented many persons of consequence from joining us. To-day, my
+mahadee brought me an ear of ghaseb, of immense length--about three
+times the length of the ghaseb grown in Ghadamez and other oases of the
+Sahara; nine times the length of an ear of wheat. This was found growing
+on the road, and intimates that we are approaching Soudan very fast. I
+also picked up to-day camomile flowers and the senna-plant.
+
+Explanation of Soudan and Bornou common words for articles of dress,
+food, instruments for manufacturing:--
+
+_Jebus_, leathern bag.
+
+_Foofoo_, paste of Indian corn.
+
+_Bouza_, a species of beer. In Waura, near the western coast, it is made
+of guinea-corn, honey, Chili pepper, a root of coarse grass; in Kanou
+and Wadaï it is made of only ghaseb and honey, and is therefore more
+pure and agreeable. It is called by some, acid beer.[13]
+
+_Kolla_, the gour-nut, called "African," or "Soudan."
+
+_Shea_, the butter-tree.
+
+_Manioc_, root. The main article of food in Congo, used as flour.
+
+ [13] In Egypt it is made of rice.--ED.
+
+I trust, under the auspices of a good Providence, to arrive strong in
+Soudan. There our greatest enemy is fever! I walked a little to-day, and
+found myself better for the exercise; but, as a rule, I avoid exposing
+myself to fatigue.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+Enter the Hamadah--Home of the Giraffe--Water of
+Chidugulah--Turtles--Cool Wind--Jerboahs--Centre of the
+Sahara--New-year's Eve--Cold Weather--Birds of Prey--Soudan
+Date--Burs--Animals on the Plateau--Young Ostrich--The
+Tholukh-tree--Severe Cold--Eleven Ostriches--Termination of the
+Desert--Inasamet--The Tagama--Purchases--People begin to
+improve--Fruit of the Lote-tree--Village roofed with Skins--Vast
+Plain--Horses--Approach Damerghou--Village of Gumrek--Rough
+Customers--Wars of the Kilgris and Kailouees--A small
+Lake--Guinea-hens--Vultures--Party of Huntsmen.
+
+
+_Dec. 29th._--About five hours after we started, the route opened into a
+_bonâ fide_ hamadah. All around us stretched a limitless plain. Our
+course lay always south, and we journeyed ten hours, with sand in the
+evening.
+
+Yesterday I had observed a few footmarks of the giraffe, but to-day they
+were everywhere visible. They were double, as this animal does not move
+its feet one after another, like the camel or the horse, but two of its
+feet together, or simultaneously. We saw the footprints of young as well
+as old ones. This plateau is the real home of the giraffe. No place
+could be better adapted for such an unwieldy creature. There is
+abundance of small tholukh, on which it feeds; all the country is open
+around to it, and it is out of the reach of ferocious animals. Towards
+the evening the marks of the giraffe disappeared, and were succeeded by
+the footprints of what is here called the wild ox (but which Overweg
+believes to be a large species of gazelle), so that one animal appears
+to have made room for the other. The day was cool and cloudy.
+
+The plain is intersected with shallow beds and streams, and in some
+places evident marks of an abundance of water in the rainy season.
+
+_30th._--We started early for the well, but did not reach it till late
+in the evening, after a march of nine hours. The well is called
+Chidugulah, and is situated on the side of a valley of some depth. In
+the bed of this valley Overweg found some infusoria, clay or stone.
+
+Many people started in the night to get water, and give their animals a
+drink. There is but a small supply, and what there is has a muddy,
+chocolate colour. The last water we took up from the valleys of Asben
+had a milky hue, so that when the coffee was made of it, it looked like
+_café au lait_.
+
+Bandits and hostile tribes frequent this well of Chidugulah, and rest
+hereabouts to pillage caravans. Our people spoke of the Oulimad, and
+Overweg dreamed he was fighting with them. I dreamed the same night of
+large turtles, for it had been said they are found in this plateau, and
+their marks had been traced to-day. I learn now that large turtles, two
+feet and a-half long, and one foot and a-half broad, are found here. The
+back shell of one was used for a watering trough by the people we met
+_en route_. We had sand all day, rising occasionally in considerable
+mounds. I observed the prevailing winds in the formation of these
+mounds; for there is always an inclined plane towards the quarter whence
+the wind blows; whilst to where it blows the mounds are scarped. The
+winds prevailing now are E.N.E.; and the wind has nearly always come
+from this direction since our arrival in Aheer. In another season,
+however, there may be a total change. In full summer it may be south,
+for what we know. In fact, Amankee says, in summer the wind always comes
+from the south. At this season the sand is covered with nice herbage in
+some places, but in the hot weather it must be all dried up. This is, in
+truth, the spring time in this country; the birds are all laying. There
+are also young birds fledged. In Haussa there is no word for "fledged."
+
+This route must really present, in some parts, for many hours together,
+an ocean of sand; as, I think, it is described in the Itinerary procured
+by Davis. To-day the footprints of the giraffe have entirely
+disappeared.
+
+In summer it must be very difficult for large caravans to obtain water
+from this well, for our people were full half a day filling four or five
+skins. What a blessing, nevertheless, is the existence of the Chidugula,
+for there is no water for three days farther. The boys killed this
+morning a jerboah, or what the Germans call a jumping mouse. I saw one
+yesterday, jumping before my camel's feet. There are a great number
+here. This jerboah is of a different colour from those I have seen in
+Tunis; being white all over the lower part of the body and neck,
+straw-coloured on the top of the head and along the back; whilst those
+in Tunis are nearly of the same colour as ordinary mice. This species is
+also small, three inches and a-half long, and the tail is double the
+length of the body. The hind legs are nearly as long as the body, and
+the fore legs not half an inch. Near the tip of the tail there is an
+inch of black. Many young jerboahs were caught, all of the same
+description. The Haussa people call it a mouse, but have besides a
+special name.
+
+We are now about the middle of the Sahara, including the radii of the
+western and northern coasts, and we here find an immense plateau,
+stretching many days north and south, east and west. So far Le Brun's
+conjecture is right, that the central parts of Africa are plateaux, or
+one vast plateau. But more of this hereafter. This plateau extends to
+the Bornou route, and how much further east is yet to be ascertained. In
+the west we yet also want information. North and south it extends along
+the territory of Aheer some eight days, or about one hundred and sixty
+miles. Overweg reckons the height of the plateau, above the level of the
+sea, at some fifteen hundred feet.
+
+_31st._--The last day of the year! One year gone in Africa this tour!
+How many more are to pass? Alas! who can tell?--We came to-day nine
+hours, always south, over a perfect desert-plain, mostly sandy. A cold
+north-east wind was blowing all the day. The people dread it as death
+itself; as well they may, for they are nearly naked. Their Soudan cotton
+clothes afford them little or no protection against such a bleak
+north-easter. Europeans are astonished to see these people shivering
+with cold in this bleak weather, and forget that they themselves are
+well clothed. This remark is very applicable to the northern coast,
+where hundreds of the poor are seen shivering, with only a thin blanket
+thrown around them in the coldest day of winter. When they see a
+European well covered with tight cloth clothes, and flannel underneath,
+they may well call out _sega_, "cold," as they often do; and we are
+ready to laugh, and forget they are naked.
+
+In this part of the desert birds of prey abound. We passed to-day some
+twenty large vultures, feeding on a dead camel. When the caravan filed
+by they all took wing, and perched themselves in a row on a rising mound
+of sand, and there waited until we had passed before them, like so many
+soldiers. These were black vultures, and of enormous breadth of wing.
+Many wild oxen, or what are so called, were seen, and everywhere the
+footprints of ostriches and gazelles. His highness En-Noor made us a
+present of two ostrich eggs, and we supped on this out-of-the-way
+delicacy the last day of the year. The date of the black country
+(Soudan) is deserving of notice. It is called in Bornou, _bitu_; and in
+Haussa, _aduwa_ and _tinku_, both tree and fruit. Its kernel, or stone,
+is very large, and the little pulpy matter upon it has the taste of a
+bitter sweet. It is about the size of an almond, and covered with a
+green husk, a little thick. This fruit is now ripening fast in Aheer.
+The tree is covered with thorns, very large, and projecting in every
+direction. The leaves are small, almost without veins, and with a thick
+stalk.
+
+To-day we had the karengia, or bur, with a vengeance. En-Noor had
+already advertised us of its appearance hereabouts two days ago. It is
+certainly the most troublesome thing that can well be conceived for all
+travellers, and more so for Europeans. This bur is from a species of
+herbage bearing grain, very small, and which the people make bazeen of,
+like ghaseb and other grain. All feet of men, women, and animals, were
+to-day covered with this teasing bur.
+
+The animals seen on this plateau, it will be seen, are in reality mostly
+of the harmless kind. The giraffe, the wild ox (considered a species of
+immense gazelle, or stag), the gazelle, a large and small species, the
+ostrich, the guinea-fowl, the hobara (in Haussa, _tuja_), various kinds
+of vultures, the crow, many small birds, the lizard (in small numbers),
+the jerboah, the locust, butterflies, and other insects, the thob, the
+large turtle, &c. Overweg says the footmarks of the hyæna were also
+seen.
+
+En-Noor's people caught a young ostrich, only a few hours hatched. It is
+now kept as a pet. Several eggs have been also picked up. The ostrich
+has been seen feeding on the gum of the tholukh-tree.
+
+As to trees, we have still the eternal tholukh, or mimosa. What an
+omnipresent tree is this in Africa! The mimosa is found at the Cape,
+with the ethel; it is found in all the northern Sahara, and the ethel
+with it, wherever there is some water, as in the wadys of Fezzan. In all
+the western Sahara it abounds, producing the finest gums. Consider also
+the gum-trade at Mogador and Senegal! In the plain of Timbuctoo, the
+mimosa is found in scattered forests. Our people pretend, however, that
+the tholukh does not occur in Soudan, its place being filled up by
+various thorny trees, much resembling the mimosa. We have around us some
+other stunted shrubs. All trees are dwarfish in these plateaux.
+
+Various distinguished characters are amongst the servants and slaves of
+En-Noor. One fellow is called the "King of the Donkeys," another wench
+is styled the "Queen of the Goats;" Zumzug is properly named _Proban
+berau_, "a great thief," from his thievish propensities. Then there is
+the "Lad of the Arrows," the fellow who is always boasting of how many
+people he has killed with arrows, &c. &c.; but Zumzug requires especial
+notice from me, on account of his having run off to Aghadez with a
+caftan of mine; and also from the curious circumstance that En-Noor
+keeps such a thief amongst his slaves, so confounding the honest with
+the thievish servants.
+
+_January 1, 1851._--A strong, bleak, north-east wind ushers in the New
+Year. It began yesterday, and is likely to continue for some time. Most
+comfortless and disagreeable weather is this for the caravan. The people
+do not like to move, and show a decided tendency to hibernation. Some
+camels are also lost--escaped from the numbed fingers of their drivers.
+I, too, feel it cold; and yet there is so much of home in this
+weather--this keen, bracing air--that I cannot complain.
+
+Our people caught the camels at length, and we proceeded still
+southwards. After three hours' travelling we appeared to have passed the
+most barren portion of the plateau, and came upon a new species of tree,
+called in Haussa, _tadana_. We have this day had a splendid sight of
+ostriches--eleven feeding in a troop near us, quietly like so many
+sheep--eccentric birds of their species, showing no tendency to scud
+away. Perhaps I shall never see so many again together. They were all
+black, with maybe a white feather or two underneath the sombre plumage.
+
+The small tholukh-trees are full of birds' nests. In the Northern Sahara
+a bird's nest was not to be seen, but here the trees are all covered
+with them. Amongst the various smaller ones, we came upon a huge
+vulture's nest on a very small tholukh, which seemed to bend and look
+unhappy beneath the weight of this den of rapacity and violence. There
+are hereabouts no rocks for the eagles to build upon. We halted amidst
+abundance of herbage and small trees, which afforded a little shelter
+from the wind.
+
+It is, perhaps, as well that we begin the year with this most bleak and
+unlovely day. We may have a better one to terminate 1851. I was obliged
+to increase my travelling clothes, and put on an extra holi on account
+of the cold wind; and yet the temperature was not very low, it being
+only 46° at sunrise. The wind evidently comes over an immense extent of
+plain towards the east, perhaps some forty or fifty days' journey. We
+made six hours and a-half.
+
+_2d._--We started early, and moved at first to the beat of the drum.
+Already yesterday we had seen symptoms that the desert was drawing to a
+close. To-day we fairly got out of it, and entered upon a wilderness of
+small trees. The vegetation has not, however, yet improved in proportion
+to our nearness to Soudan; for this dwarf forest of tholukh and various
+other trees cannot be compared to the splendid desert vegetation in the
+Aheer valleys; these are pigmy mimosas in comparison with those of
+Aheer. The surface of the ground is now undulating sand and red earth,
+and every trace of stone has almost disappeared; the soil is also
+covered with karengia and other herbs, all dry and sapless. We seem to
+be traversing a limitless stubble-field, covered over or sprinkled with
+small trees. Few animals enliven the scene; a crow here and there struts
+or flies. All the small birds seem to have sought covert from the cold.
+The same north-east wind as yesterday blows with remorseless strength.
+
+I observed great numbers of ant-hills, and very large ones, too. Some of
+the paths from these hills are straighter than the roads made by man
+over the Sahara. So, also, the birds in Aheer, and on this route, build
+better houses for themselves than men do. We halted amidst karengia, and
+had great difficulty in finding a place clear of them. En-Noor suffers
+dreadfully from the cold, and we help to keep him alive by our coffee,
+which he drinks shivering, and then admits to have given him renovated
+heat and strength. This coffee keeps the old fellow in a good humour,
+and he is extremely civil to us.
+
+_3d._--We started early, and made four hours and a-half, when we stopped
+at the village Inasamet, or Unwessemet. The weather is still the same,
+and the route continues to wind through a scattered wilderness of small
+trees, amongst which Overweg thought he had discovered a species of wild
+orange.
+
+We now see signs of approaching habitations, such as flocks of sheep
+straying, and droves of oxen feeding begin to appear. There seems to be
+a great number of birds of prey hereabouts. I counted at least thirty
+vultures, who watched the passing of the caravan, in hopes to see a
+camel fall and be abandoned.
+
+We encamped a stone's throw beyond the houses. The well is called by the
+same name as the village. The inhabitants are Tuaricks, and some of them
+of a very pure race, almost white; whilst others, again, are dark: they
+are called Tagama. The women and children all came out to sell their
+cheeses, and a few other things. I purchased two small fowls and a good
+number of cheeses, which seem to be the principal articles of produce:
+they are made quite square, three or four inches a side, and a quarter
+of an inch thick. I purchased these with imitation silver rings, of
+which the people are immensely fond, preferring them to the imitation
+gold ring. I got two cheeses for a ring--a plain hoop: the fowls cost
+each three of these toys. The women and girls bothered me much with
+their curiosity and their bartering. Some of them are as stout as the
+Mooresses of the coast, and nearly all are well-looking; many with very
+good features, and fair for this country. All are polite enough, men,
+women, and children. We are glad to find the people more civil, the
+nearer we approach to Soudan. We pray and hope this amendment may
+continue; for hitherto, since we left Mourzuk, we have always had the
+people, with the exception of those of Tintalous, more or less hostile
+towards us. Some of our customers came to ask if the rings were really
+silver, for the blacksmith of the village had said they were only
+pewter. We replied, they were _de-de_ silver; that is, looked like it,
+or equal to it. They are, indeed, a most excellent imitation of silver,
+and answer quite as well the purpose of adorning these Targhee beauties.
+
+I saw to-day, on a single bough of tholukh, and a very small bough,
+three birds' nests suspended in a festoon. I tasted the wild
+water-melons of this part of the Sahara, and found them bitterness
+itself. But I am told by our Gatronee, that the Tibboos have a method of
+extracting the bitterness from this wild fruit. The people brought me
+_en route_ some fruit, called in Bornou _kusulu_, and _mageria_ in
+Haussa; that is, the _nebek_ or fruit of the sider or lote-tree. They
+were dry, but sweet and nice, and of a pleasant, acid sweet. Provisions
+thus are becoming more plentiful and varied. Dr. Barth has bought some
+meat of _el-wagi_, the name given by Yusuf for the bugar wahoush, or
+wild ox of the Arabs.
+
+The greater part of the trees in this region are of the species called
+in Haussa, _tadani_, and in Bornouese, _kabi_. Were these trees adorned
+with leaves--they are now fallen off, in consequence of the cold--the
+country about would seem covered with a dense forest.
+
+Our arrival amongst the Tagama is a new era in our journeying, it being
+some time since we saw any men besides Kailouees. Overweg thinks the men
+thieves and bad, and the women lascivious; but I observed in their
+conduct nothing different from other Tuaricks. A man, however, offered
+several women to Barth. I have never yet had such offers. Amongst the
+things brought for sale are young ostriches and the eggs of ostriches. I
+ate in the evening some flesh of the giraffe; it is pretty well tasted,
+and something like beef. Hunting the giraffe is a great occupation with
+the people of this village, and the flesh of the animal a source of
+subsistence for them. They have, however, besides, cattle and flocks;
+and the karengia, which has proved such an annoyance to us, is the
+principal farinaceous food of these Tagama, as the bou rekaba is the
+principal food of poor families in Aheer. Inasamet has, perhaps, a
+hundred huts, covered with the skins of the bullock, and probably of the
+giraffe. The latter animal is hunted by men mounted on horseback, who
+throw their spears at it, and wound it under the belly. This is said to
+be the only way of killing it, for the rest of its body is covered with
+a sort of rhinoceros hide, of great thickness. Of this hide they make
+famous sandals, which wear long.
+
+It is difficult to decide how far this immense plain--which extends as
+far as Aghadez on the N.W., to Gouber on the S.W., perhaps as far as the
+plain of Senezrouft, on the route of Timbuctoo--passing, besides,
+eastwards across the route of Bornou,--how far this vast space of desert
+is a plateau to the surrounding countries; that is, whether higher or
+lower than their level. We do not think it is a plateau in reference to
+Aheer. There is another route to Damerghou, westward of this, on which
+is situate the forest of Kob-kob, the place mentioned in the itinerary
+which I procured from the people of Ghadamez.
+
+_4th._--The morning was cold, with wind. The Tagama, I observe, have
+many horses. Like their more civilised brethren in Europe, these people
+find this the most tractable and convenient animal in every case where
+the desert does not interfere.
+
+We came south seven hours and a-quarter; after four, the wavy country
+broke up into a deep valley; in another hour, on the right, was seen a
+pool of rain-water--a small lake, stretching nearly a mile long. The
+country, as yesterday, was undulating, and covered with a dwarf forest;
+but the trees were thicker, and the ground was covered with dried
+herbage, mostly karengia. It is our constant occupation, morning and
+evenings, for half an hour, to pick the burs out of our clothes. The
+animals seen were mostly small birds; some flights of blackbirds,
+two-thirds the size of the English blackbird; and crows and doves in
+numbers. Near the water I picked up the feathers of the guinea-fowl, and
+the piece of a shell of a large turtle. Burrows of the hyæna and the
+ant-eater dotted the ground. En-Noor told me that lions also abound in
+the thickets. The lions conceal themselves in the trees, and the hyænas
+burrow under ground.
+
+Our people are now on the threshold of Damerghou, and do not know yet
+what route they will take from this country to Kanou; whether by Tesaoua
+or Zinder. Even En-Noor seems quite undecided what he shall do.
+
+_5th._--We came well on to-day, eight hours and twenty minutes. After
+four or five hours we passed on the roadside a dozen huts, with
+skin-roofs or coverings. The people are some light, some dark;
+variegated, like most of the Tuaricks. The children of eight or nine
+years go quite naked. After two hours more we came upon the large
+village of Gumrum, or Gumrek. I saw many people, light and dark; the
+women are fat and bold, free in their conversation; and the men
+evidently fanatical. The latter shouted that we ought not to pass,
+because we were infidels. One fellow was very savage, and cursed me; he
+was an old grey-headed gentleman, and seemed quite excited. These people
+are also of the tribe of the Tagama. Amankee came up to me, whispering,
+"These are like the Kalfadaï, they would rob you as they did, only they
+are all in the hands of the Sofo (En-Noor)."
+
+The inhabitants of Gumrek have much cattle. We ourselves saw some five
+or six hundred head, and they must have more than double this number,
+besides flocks and horses. The men mostly ride horses, but their breed
+is miserably small and ill-looking. People in poor circumstances mount
+bullocks, as do all the women.
+
+To the west, lately, there came off a great razzia. All this country
+around, for some hundred miles, is the noted theatre of such
+expeditions, which are mostly undertaken against the salt and other
+caravans, where there is considerable booty expected. The smaller
+caravans escape. When the Kilgris and Kailouees are in open hostility,
+they generally make this the theatre of their battles; the former
+carrying off the salt of the latter. This hostility is, like that of
+most of the wild tribes, of ancient date. The Kilgris have been driven
+from all this part of Asben by the Kailouees. The houses we passed in
+ruins are said to have been once occupied by the Kilgris. If so, they
+evidently were in former times powerful and opulent, and have since
+become relaxed and pusillanimous. At any rate, they have been expelled
+by the fiercer and more ferocious Kailouees. The Oulimad also come here
+to plunder occasionally. At Gurarek we saw a phenomenon which, after so
+much desert, gladdened indeed our eyes. This was a fine sheet of water,
+of great extent, covered with a forest of luxurious trees. It was a
+genuine Soudan picture, and we gazed at it with delight. I nevertheless
+thought of the pestilential exhalations of the stagnant pools further on
+in Soudan. The ground holds the water tightly, for wells are sunk near
+it of some depth before water is reached. This pool, or lake, dries up
+during the heat of summer, as is proved by the existence of wells sunk
+in their beds.
+
+The country to-day was extremely pleasant, like some parts of the
+undulating county of Essex, after the harvest is gathered. I scarcely
+expected to find such reminiscences in Africa, on the frontiers of
+Pamerghou. If the vegetation were all in leaf, the scenery would be
+quite cheerful and happy-looking. The trees to-day thickened into
+forests down some slopes--but there is nothing tropical in all this
+verdure; one or two plants, at most, are all that could be considered as
+such. Many gazelles glanced on either hand as we proceeded: the
+guinea-hen was in great numbers, thirty or forty together, old ones and
+chickens. They run very quickly through the forests, and cannot be taken
+in the day. At night, however, some are snared. They feed on the
+karengia, and get immensely plump. Their flesh is greatly esteemed.
+Doves showed themselves in flights; and many beautiful small birds, some
+strangers to my eyes. One especially, a little black-and-white fellow,
+with an immense bushy tail. Vultures, in company with a variegated crow,
+were feeding on a dead camel. This curious crow has a white neck and
+breast. What a truly Saharan group is that which I have just noticed.
+The vulture feeding on a camel fallen in the desert, towards the end of
+an arduous journey!
+
+We met a party of huntsmen, with three bullocks to carry their ghaseb.
+They had six dogs, and told us they were off after the giraffe. A few
+lizards now and then glanced over the path, and at every thirty or forty
+yards rose a busy ant-hill.
+
+En-Noor and I converged to-day from the backs of our respective camels.
+He asked me particularly if I liked stout women, and whether stout women
+were found in England. I replied, gravely, that this species occurred in
+all Christian countries; a piece of zoological information which seemed
+highly to gratify him. His highness still pretends he does not know
+where he is going--that is, whether to Zinder or Tesaoua.
+
+We encamped near a shallow wady, the first we have seen in this part of
+the country; i.e. a well-defined dry bed of a river.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+My Barracan--Spontaneous Civility on arrival in Damerghou--Ghaseb
+Stubble--Cactus--Water-Melons--Party of Tuaricks--Boban Birni--Huts of
+Damerghou--Tagelel--Women of the Village--Population of the
+Country--Complaisant Ladies--Festivities--Aquatic Birds--Dancing--A
+Flatterer--A Slave Family--A new Reason for Wife-beating--Hazna
+Dancers--Damerghou, common ground--Purchase of Ghaseb--Dethroned
+Sultan--Yusuf--Mohammed Tunisee--Ophthalmia--Part with Barth and
+Overweg--Presents to Servants--Sheikh of Fumta--Yakobah
+Slave--Applications for Medicine--Boban Birni--Forest--At length enter
+Bornou ground--Daazzenai--Tuarick Respectabilities--Detachment of the
+Salt-Caravan.
+
+
+_Jan. 6th._--We came seven hours. The weather is always thick, as for
+many days past; but the wind not so strong, nor the air so cold. We had
+even some drops of rain; and, probably, the rain here is not so
+constant, in its fall in summer-time, as is generally supposed. I took
+out my last barracan, as some precaution against the threatening clouds.
+This barracan excited everybody's attention; every one admired it, and
+asked for it. I was plagued to death by the people, and I vowed I would
+not take it out again be the weather what it might. The same demand had
+been repeatedly made for my poor carpet; so, on the following day, I
+took it off from the camel.
+
+An hour before we pitched tent; we passed a town on the top of a hill
+composed of huts, some covered with skins, and some made of straw. Our
+encampment is in a wady, near a cluster of hovels. The people came
+running to welcome us, by offering ghaseb for sale. Two volunteered to
+assist us in clearing a clean place for our tents. This being the first
+act of spontaneous assistance which we had witnessed from Tripoli to
+Damerghou, I gave them each a ring. We are now fairly in Damerghou; and
+to-day we saw the first specimens of the culture in this part of Africa.
+The ground is cleared by burning, as on the coast; which burning serves
+partly to supply the place of manure. The people, apparently slaves,
+were burning and raking up the ashes and stubble, with rakes made of
+fallen branches of trees. We passed through wide tracts of ghaseb
+stubble. Some of the stalks were seven or eight feet high, but the ears
+were not larger than those seen at Ghadamez--about eight or nine inches.
+
+Amongst the plants observed yesterday was the cactus, with a smooth
+leaf. Water-melons were also found in the road, mostly quite good and
+sweet, but some white ones perfectly tasteless. None, even those
+cultivated, are equal to the melons of the coast; there are no mealy
+ones here.
+
+We were met by a party of Tuaricks, who came to salute En-Noor, mounted
+on horseback. As we had had some very rough customers amongst the
+Tagama, I took little notice of them, and continued eating my bread and
+cheese. At this the people of the caravan laughed. They thought we ought
+always to receive these strangers, Tuaricks, with fear and trembling. I
+deemed the contrary plan more politic. However, had I known they were
+official persons, and one son of a sheikh of a town, I should have given
+them a more civil welcome.
+
+_7th._--We came eight hours and a-half south, over an undulating
+country, intersected with small wadys, and through ghaseb stubble. All
+was wavy ground, and bare of trees. There is, however, a small hill, at
+a distance of some ten miles from our encampment, called Boban Birni,
+"Great City," of conical form. Numerous villages were scattered along
+the whole line of route, a few of some size. The form of the huts is
+like that of beehives. Around them are small magazines of ghaseb,
+supported on wooden stakes, very like corn-stacks. The inhabitants of
+these Damerghou villages are blacks, with features like the Bornouese.
+In fact, they speak the Bornou languages, and are said to have been the
+product of past razzias in that country by the Tuaricks.
+
+Damerghou is the granary of Asben, and seems to be entirely in
+possession of the Asbenouees, nearly all these villages being peopled by
+the slaves of the Tuaricks. Some villages, indeed, contain nothing but
+slaves.
+
+Few animals were noticed to-day, but we saw four gazelles feeding
+together, and some hares. Not many birds appeared, on account of the
+fewness of the trees. Only a small portion of the ground is cultivated,
+but the camels and cattle are taken to be fed in the waste lands.
+
+We encamped at the village of En-Noor, called Tagelel. The capital of
+Damerghou is on the west (N.W.) from this, and is called Olleloa. The
+place is governed by Tuaricks.
+
+People say there are two or three hundred towns and villages in the
+country. Damerghou is not considered as part of Soudan, because it is
+possessed by the Tuaricks; but the country and climate are undoubtedly
+the same as all the neighbouring Soudanee territories. The weather was
+very warm and oppressive to-day. I fancied I suffered from the change of
+climate. I felt not quite well, and was much annoyed by the disobedience
+of the servants. Mohammed Tunisee has spoiled them all, and even Yusuf
+has done his share of mischief.
+
+_8th._--The weather was warm again this morning. I had a visit from the
+female slaves of the village of En-Noor, introduced by the wife of his
+highness. I gave them rings and sugar, and sent them off in a good
+humour. The country around looks exceedingly bare, almost free from
+trees. There is a little herbage for the camels. Ghaseb stubble,
+however, spreads all over, which looks well for the industry of the poor
+slaves. The karengia has disappeared.
+
+The news of the day goes that En-Noor will take me himself to Zinder. He
+probably wants to make acquaintance with the new governor of that place,
+as well as to see us safe there. The Tuaricks paid me a visit. I gave
+them a bit of sugar, showed them a gun, and got rid of them. A present
+of leban from a daughter of En-Noor induced me to give her a ring.
+
+Amankee says the population of this country is very various, but the
+Tuaricks of Asben are the masters. The villagers are not all slaves;
+there are many free people amongst them,--also Buza in numbers; Tuaricks
+who, having settled in Soudan, have forgotten their own language,
+speaking only Haussa. Many visitors trouble us, but we hope for a
+diminution to-morrow. The people of Damerghou are reported as enormous
+thieves, but we have seen as yet but little of their propensities this
+way, having, happily, lost nothing.
+
+I made a visit to the village, and was well received by the principal
+slave of En-Noor, who presented me with ghaseb-bread, cheese, and furd,
+or ghaseb-water. The ladies were singularly complaisant, and one offered
+me her friend; another was offered by a man. I believe these offers made
+in the way of compliments. In the East, it would not be prudent to take
+him at his word who should say, "Everything I have is yours." The huts
+of the village are very clean, and are inhabited entirely by slaves of
+En-Noor. These villages of Damerghou, at a distance, have the appearance
+of Chinese villages, such as I have seen drawn, with eaves cocked up
+like the rim of a French hat. The evening was given up to festivities,
+the slaves of the caravan uniting with those of the Tagelel. A regular
+procession brought the supper from the village to the people of the
+caravan, and then the music and dancing began. We had no supper sent.
+His highness is amazingly shabby in this respect. He fancies, perhaps,
+he could send us nothing better than what we have ourselves got, but he
+might try the compliment. We are, however, obliged to him for preventing
+others from levying contributions upon us in this new region. The
+Tuaricks here--all the strangers--are very civil; on account, I believe,
+of our being with the old man. He is of great negative utility.
+
+Overweg went to a lagoon, with little green isles in the midst of it,
+and shot some ducks. Ducks! This convinces us that we are now in the
+country of water. A wader was shot, and a fine plump bird something like
+a partridge, which Mohammed Tunisee calls _poule de Carthage_, but it is
+much smaller than those that I have eaten in Tunis. Many aquatic birds
+were flying or floating about the lake.
+
+The dancing in the evening was after this fashion. Two men beat drums,
+standing on one side of a circle marked. The dancers advanced towards
+them with shy and coyish gesture, and then swung round and round to the
+opposite side of the circle in a sort of time kept by the beating of the
+drum. They threw up their legs, but not in an indecent manner. It was a
+kind of simple waltzing. The men were not more violent in action than
+the women. Each sex danced separately, the women beginning first and
+then retiring. During the performance a song was kept up, a continually
+recurring rhyme. When it became dark the male and female slaves made
+love, and coquetted together. We, too, had our music; a strolling
+minstrel came to our tent by appointment to play on his guitar. He sang
+all our praises in very nice Haussa words, and indulged in the most
+extraordinary flattery I ever heard. I was Sultan, and had the riches of
+the world at my command. _Over_ was the great doctor, and what he could
+not cure, God himself could not cure. _Bar_ was the wise man, knowing
+all languages and all things. We tried not to be pleased, but in vain.
+Flattery is sweet, especially when enveloped in song.
+
+The weather was hot to-day, and sultry. I made many little presents,
+some to a fighi of Bornou, a Shoua Arab, who repeated the fatah to us.
+It is reported that a great deal of the salt goes with En-Noor to
+Zinder, from which we are separated by two days' journey, one of
+villages and another of forest.
+
+_9th._--The morning opened with wind, as usual, from the N.E. The
+weather was cooler than yesterday. I visited a group of cottages, or
+rather huts, and received a present of a korna for holding water. The
+thatch of these primitive habitations was of bou rekaba stalks. The
+korna is allowed to twine itself over the roofs, as the woodbine over
+our cottages, and looks very pretty. This group of cottages was
+inhabited by a single family,--alas! all slaves.
+
+According to Overweg, the reason En-Noor beat his wife in the terrible
+manner mentioned in this journal was, because she was accustomed to
+glide out of her chamber at night to witness the dances--the beastly
+dances of the north coast. I certainly was surprised to hear that she
+was present at these filthy exhibitions. "Have I not bought you?" his
+highness remonstrated with her. "Are you not my slave?" "No." she
+replied; "I am your wife, not your slave." So the lady continued, till
+she aggravated his highness into a great fury. Many Europeans, it must
+be confessed, would beat their wives for a less cause.
+
+It is now said, his highness goes first to Tesaoua. We start all
+to-morrow, at any rate. The bells which cover the horses are without
+clappers, but being close together they make a great jingling noise by
+dashing one against another. Suppers were brought this evening, but the
+singing and dancing were not continued. We had, however, at sunset, a
+visit from a Hazna dancer,--a perfect specimen of African buffoonery and
+jingling. He danced and sung with the wildest barbarity. He had two
+followers, to pick up the offerings of the people. They beat two pieces
+of stick together to the motion of his legs, hung with bells. The upper
+part of his body was naked, whilst the lower part was covered with a red
+and yellow apron. This man is said to drink beer, and is a professed
+pagan.
+
+I went to the wells, which are bored through the hard red clay, in the
+shape of small circular holes, of about fifty feet in depth. There is
+very little water at this season, but it is sufficient for the wants of
+the village when the salt-caravan is not here.
+
+The inhabitants of Damerghou consist of Kailouee Tuaricks--Bornouese
+runaways and slaves--Haussa people, free and slaves--Bousa, or the
+descendants of Tuaricks by slaves, and a few Fullanee. This is also the
+refuge of dethroned sultans, as well as runaway slaves. There is now
+here the Kailouee prince called Maaurgi, who exercised authority some
+years since in Aheer. Damerghou, indeed, appears to be common ground,
+where every one who pleases, and is strong enough, comes to establish
+himself. Many runaways, freemen from Bornou, who had committed some
+misdemeanour, being found in this country weak and unable to protect
+themselves, were reduced to slavery by a Tuarick prince. The slaves here
+answer to the serfs of Russia, with the exception that they may be taken
+away and sold in other countries.
+
+_10th._--The morning was cool because of the wind. They held a souk, or
+market, to-day near us. Provisions were very cheap. I was greatly amused
+to see the small quantities of sunbal which Mahadee had laid out for two
+zekkas of ghaseb. For myself I was much plagued by the women, who all
+admire my beard; not, certainly, my red nose, which is terribly scorched
+and peeled by the sun.
+
+Overweg visited the dethroned Sultan of Asoudee, who is living here in
+state, in the midst of his slaves. He holds a sort of court, and,
+contrary to the free customs of the Tuaricks, he permits slaves who
+approach him to prostrate themselves and throw dust on their heads. He
+is the uncle of the present Sultan of Asoudee, and is called Masouarji.
+In his fallen condition he gave Overweg a hospitable reception, and a
+present of dates, which was duly acknowledged.
+
+Yusuf, refusing to do some translation which I requested him, now
+forfeits all claims to my service. I told him, to-day, to go off to
+Kanou. Afterwards I arranged with him to go with me to Zinder, where,
+before the governor, I hope to get clear of him; for he is now of little
+use, and costs me more than all my servants together.
+
+Mohammed Tunisee has done him great harm; but, nevertheless, this chap
+continues to improve since the arrangement made, by which he becomes
+only the servant of Barth. The Germans, however, are still afraid of
+him. Yusuf is trying the same system with me, but will probably find
+that it will end in no good affair for himself. Mohammed Tunisee and
+Yusuf seem hitherto to have combined to spoil all our people. The
+liberated slaves from Tunis, brought up by me, have turned out the best
+and most faithful servants. I am much pleased with this.
+
+All the people of Damerghou are afflicted with ophthalmia, which is said
+to arise from the winds that prevail constantly over this open and
+unsheltered country. Some of the people pretend it is caused by drinking
+ghaseb-water, which appears absurd enough. The Moorish and other
+merchants attribute the greater part of their diseases to drinking
+water,--especially the fevers. How much truth there is in this assertion
+is not easy to be determined.
+
+_11th._--It has been agreed that I and my colleagues should here part
+for a time, Dr. Barth going to Kanou, and Dr. Overweg to Tesaoua and
+Maradee, whilst I proceed with En-Noor direct to Zinder. Dr. Barth
+promises to be in Kuka in two months; and Dr. Overweg says he will
+immediately correspond, that is from Tesaoua to Zinder. The latter has
+the more difficult journey before him; but even Dr. Barth's visit to
+Kanou may turn out a more serious business than perhaps he anticipates.
+We took leave one of the other with some emotion; for in Central Africa,
+those travellers who part and take divergent routes can scarcely count
+on all meeting together again.
+
+I also here parted with Amankee, my Haussa servant. He had behaved
+indifferently lately, but nevertheless, as he rendered us some service
+in the acquirement of the Haussa languages, and in other matters, I made
+him a present of four dollars for one extra time he had remained with
+us. He had been paid his wages at Mourzuk to go with us to Zinder, but
+then we expected to be only three months _en route_. In a moment, just
+as we were starting, he changed his mind, and would go to his home at
+once. This is his character,--levity and instability,--otherwise he is a
+good fellow enough. He is one of those Tuaricks who have settled in
+Haussa and forgotten their native tongue. I have been often obliged to
+use harsh language to him, to curb his levity. In parting with the
+servants of the Germans, I promised them each a present of six dollars
+if I heard a good report of them on their arrival at Kuka. This present
+is held out as an inducement because it is impossible to tell what may
+happen, as the Germans will nearly always be without any special escort.
+En-Noor, however, sends one of his slaves with Overweg to Maradee, and
+Barth goes with the salt-caravan to Kanou.
+
+I was much disappointed that we made but one hour this morning (south).
+To pass the time, I determined to visit some of the villages with which
+Damerghou is overscattered. I went first to a place called Fumta Bou
+Beker, twenty-five minutes from our encampment. Here I found the Sheikh,
+who had just returned from Kanou,--a considerable merchant. He received
+me with great hospitality, and gave me ghaseb-water, and some little
+pieces of meat, roasted, besides milk. I was accompanied by my stupid
+mahadee, who is, nevertheless, not a bad market-man. He purchased a
+large calabash of milk, and a peck of beans, for some small pieces of
+jaui, or benzoin. I then administered caustic to all the eyes of the
+village--at least sixty persons--including men, women, and children,
+with the Sheikh. Bad eyes were the only pressing complaints of the
+place.
+
+The villagers all spoke Bornouese. I believe this is the general
+language of Damerghou. There were only two or three Tuaricks present.
+Most of the people were free. The Sheikh, of course, had several slaves;
+amongst them a Yakobah slave, with straight lines cicatrised in curious
+patterns all over his body. The poor fellow seemed remarkably stupid,
+and I believe that many of these poor fellows brought from the more
+distant countries of Soudan become half idiots from continually
+regretting their beloved country. Alas! what can be done for Africa,
+when the greater part of its social system is constructed on slavery?
+
+Curious applications are made for medicines to cure various afflictions,
+moral and physical, amongst these people. A woman, to-day, begged for a
+medicine to prevent her children from dying. She had had many children,
+and all had died. Another woman applies for a medicine to prevent her
+husband from liking her rival, and to make him place his affection on
+her. A man demands medicine for good luck, and says he is always
+unfortunate.--Good people, I am not the physician to be called in in
+these cases.
+
+It is night, and En-Noor has not made his appearance. I am travelling
+with his wife and the other women; besides, there are a number of male
+slaves and some thirty camels of salt. Probably his highness will go
+another way to Zinder.
+
+I believe that Fumta Bou Beker is quite an independent village, and that
+all the great towns and villages here have an independent jurisdiction
+of their own. According to a slave of En-Noor, there are two sultans.
+
+_12th._--The morning was cool and windy. We started pretty early, and
+moved one hour through huts scattered amidst the ghaseb stubble. Then
+came three hours of undulating ground, uncultivated. Afterwards we fell
+in with huts again; and in two hours more reached the conical-shaped
+mount called Boban Birni. It consists of a sort of coarse sandstone and
+is in part overgrown with herbage. From the encampment to Mount Boban
+Birni was a distance of six hours S.W. It can be seen from afar off,
+though in reality not very lofty. We passed the mount for two hours
+through a forest of dwarf trees; the country still billowy, as it were.
+We advanced in all about eight hours, braced by a pleasant north-east
+wind. As we advanced we saw ostriches quietly feeding at no great
+distance, not heeding our caravan as it murmured by. Partridges rose as
+we advanced; together with guinea-hens, blackbirds, crows, black and
+white, and several long-tailed flutterers.
+
+_13th._--The morning was overcast, with cold wind. We started early, and
+made a long day of nine hours and a-half, and did not encamp until an
+hour after dark. Our course, as we ascended from Mount Boban Birni, was
+S. 3° E. The country still undulated through the same forest, which in
+many places was quite dense, whilst in others the trees were scattered.
+
+When we reached the camping-ground a pleasant announcement was made. We
+were at length upon Bornou soil! I could hardly believe my ears. Oh,
+marvel, after all our dangers and misgivings! Thanks to Almighty God for
+deliverance from the hands of lawless tribes! I shall never forget the
+sensation with which I learned that I was at length really in Bornou,
+and that the robber Tuarick was in very truth definitively left behind.
+
+Our encampment was near a little village of twenty huts, called
+Daazzenai, placed under a rock of red stone. The country of Damerghou,
+in this direction, is separated from Bornou by about eleven hours of
+forest, or some thirty miles English--a sufficient distance to divide
+two countries, especially in Africa. The trees were larger to-day, and
+some of considerable altitude. Many pretty yellow blossoms, glowed on a
+species of shrub not unlike the laburnum.
+
+I observed scattered in the forest small mounds of mud, wasting away to
+the level of the ground; there were many of them; the birds perch
+thereon.
+
+We have seen a few nice families amongst the Tuaricks and their slaves,
+but these are mostly foreigners. There is the family of the Tripoline
+slave; her husband is a pleasant, quiet man, and one of En-Noor's
+household; she has a daughter and one cade-lamb. Then there is the
+Bornou fighi and his wife. These people are so affable, that they always
+have visitors near their little tent. They have also a cade-lamb. Their
+tent is a curiosity. It is just large enough for one of them to creep
+in--not for two. I suppose the fighi enters at night, and leaves his
+wife to sleep at the door.
+
+A detachment of the salt-caravan passed us to-day for Zinder. The whole
+force of the salt-caravan this year could not be more than fifteen
+hundred. Two divisions were with us of Kailouees, one in advance, each
+of five hundred, and the Kilgris' division of five hundred. So much for
+the boasted ten thousand camels which were gone this year to bring salt!
+From En-Noor one could not possibly get correct statistics, for, being a
+thorough Kailouee and a Tuarick, he magnifies everything connected with
+his people before strangers, and particularly to us. It was very amusing
+to see all the little children warming themselves in the evening at the
+fire, or feeding the flames with brushwood, which they easily collected.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+March for Zinder--Enter the City--Reception--Delighted to escape from
+the Tuaricks--Letters from Kuka--Hospitable Treatment--Presents for the
+Sarkee and others--Visit the Shereef--His Duties--Audience of the
+Sarkee--Servility--Double-skulled Slave--Powder and Shot--Portrait of
+the Sultan--Commission from Kuka--European Clothes--Family of
+En-Noor--Tour of the Town--Scavengers--List of Sultans of Central
+Africa--Ancient Haussa--The Market--Money--Conversation
+with the Shereef--The Sultan at Home--Mixed Race of
+Zinder--Statistics--Personages of the Court.
+
+
+_Jan. 14th._--We started early, in hopes to reach Zinder in the course
+of the morning. Our course of five hours was S. 10° E. from the
+encampment. The route from En-Noor's palace in Damerghou is two good
+days and a-half. After two hours and a-half we came to huts in a valley,
+and a village of thirty or forty houses, called Boban Tabki. In three
+quarters of an hour there were villages again. I was pleased to see the
+corn-stacks or field-granaries standing in the open country, apart from
+all houses or habitations, illustrating the security of property in
+Zinder and its neighbouring districts. The country all around is
+pleasant, nicely undulating with ridges of green hills--the horizon
+bounded on every side with rounded green hills.
+
+We sighted Zinder after four hours' march; and entered the town within
+another hour. I was somewhat impatient to get rid of the Tuaricks, and
+place myself in the hands of the Bornou authorities; so I rode off
+myself to the town, leaving the suburbs, where the family of En-Noor
+have their residence, deaf to all their cries to stop. I found a
+friendly Kailouee, who conducted me straight to the house of the
+governor. His servants took me to the Shereef, and the Shereef sent me
+to Saïd, my servant, where I found a house and everything prepared for
+my reception; and here, also, I found a slave sent from Bornou by the
+Sheikh, to conduct me to Kuka: so all things wore a happy aspect after
+so many miseries and uncertainties.
+
+I was delighted with the appearance of Zinder, its picturesque
+situation, and its unexpected size. It is much larger than I was led to
+expect. As soon as I was domiciled I received visits from several
+merchants of Mourzuk, besides the authorities of the town. All the sons
+of the Sultan of the place came to salute me; I gave them each a little
+sugar, and off they went highly pleased. Provisions now poured in at
+such a rate, that after the starvation of the desert I became nauseated
+at their sight. These were sent by the Sultan and the Shereef.
+
+Thankful satisfaction for my deliverance from the wild tribes, the most
+hostile to Christians of all this part of Africa, and fond anticipations
+of what I may do in Bornou; the good news I already heard, and the
+anxiety of the Sheikh for our safety, with my comparatively robust
+health;--thoughts of all these things prevented me from sleeping during
+the night.
+
+I learnt from Saïd, servant of Haj Beshir, that letters had arrived from
+Mourzuk for us in Kuka, and one was addressed to the Sheikh, which had
+determined him to bring us all at once to Kuka, and prevent us going
+first to Soudan. Upon this advice, the Sultan of this place had sent
+four persons to Tesaoua, to bring my colleagues from that place. But
+whether they will come on the demand of these persons is very
+questionable. I learned that the Sfaxee, as I expected, was laid up with
+fever in Kanou, for he is emphatically a man of fever; and, besides, he
+has no control over himself, but gorges himself with food when an
+opportunity presents itself; and this, after the privations of the
+desert, is sure to bring on disease. Yusuf Moknee came to me this
+evening, to know what was to be done on the next morning. He finds it
+necessary to alter his conduct, as he sees now that I could do without
+him. I determined to go on with him for the present. I do not wish to
+leave him here with En-Noor, for he may do us harm with that subtle
+Kailouee prince. I must take him away from the Tuaricks altogether.
+
+I found all the Mourzuk people very friendly--everybody friendly; the
+world seemed turned upside down after our treatment from the Tuaricks. I
+began to make little presents, for I am determined our friends shall
+have a portion of her Majesty's goods as well as our enemies; which
+latter, indeed, took them away from us by force. I must not forget to
+remark, that when I entered Zinder there was not a single person bold
+enough to whisper the name _Kafer!_ so immense is the difference between
+this Bornou country and the Tuarick territories.
+
+_15th._--I rose early, having slept little. The weather was cool, the
+thermometer at sunrise being at 59°. I began to prepare our presents for
+the Sultan and the Shereef. After much debating as to quantity, it was
+determined to keep all the best things for Kuka, and give small presents
+here. In this respect I must praise Yusuf and his friends amongst the
+Mourzuk people.
+
+I prepared a present for Sarkee Ibrahim, sultan of Zinder, consisting of
+a piece of muslin for turban, a red turban, three heads of sugar, two
+glass drinking-cups, painted, a cup and saucer for coffee, a few rings
+in imitation of gold, cloves, two handkerchiefs (cotton), powder and
+shot, fifty bullets, two or three small looking-glasses. The present for
+the Shereef consisted of a carpet (hearth-rug), used here for kneeling
+upon in performing prayers, three white sugar-loaves, cloves,
+handkerchief (cotton), powder and shot, with some other trifles. The
+present for Saïd, sent by Haj Beshir from Kuka, consisted of a cloth
+caftan (coarse), a cotton handkerchief, and a piece of cotton stuff to
+make a pillow.
+
+I am happy to add, that all were content and satisfied; but we made them
+understand--indeed, they knew it before we arrived--that the Tuaricks
+had taken away nearly all my property.
+
+I must add the present of the Shereef Saghir (little Shereef), who acts
+as interpreter for the Sultan: a glass painted drinking-cup, a
+handkerchief (cotton), a little sugar, jani, senbal, a few cloves, and
+two or three rings; with which he was well satisfied.
+
+Before noon I waited on the Shereef to deliver my present. I was much
+struck with this man's appearance. He was quite an European--white as
+myself. His countenance seemed full of thought and meaning. He is a
+native of Fez, and has lived long in Algiers. He has served in the war
+against the French under Abd-el-Kader, and has only been two years in
+Bornou and in Kuka, and once in Zinder. He is here as the _nather_,
+"looker-on;" one who watches over the interests of the country,
+particularly in its foreign relations. To speak plainly, he is a spy of
+the Sheikh of Bornou over the authorities of Zinder, including the
+Governor. All the people say, "Without the Shereef nothing can be done
+in Zinder;" and well they may, considering that he is in the entire
+confidence of the Sheikh. The Shereef is also the agent of all
+foreigners, and our goods were directed to his care from Tintalous--that
+is, those things which we sent up before us. The Sultans of Zinder are
+always a little disaffected; and to check them, and watch their conduct,
+the Shereef has been sent here. This personage is also universally
+respected for his learning, piety, and almsgiving; so that, apparently,
+the Sheikh could not have intrusted his interests to a more able man.
+The Shereef knows well the use of arms, for it is reported here in
+Zinder that he has killed _forty thousand_ Frenchmen with his own hands!
+The people actually believe this most marvellous report!
+
+After leaving the Shereef we went to salute the Sultan Ibrahim, and
+deliver to his highness our present. We were conducted into a species of
+fort, built of clay, with walls exceedingly thick. Here in a sort of
+anteroom, or open skifa, or hall, we found some fifty soldiers of the
+Sultan, unarmed and bare-headed, with one or two governors of
+neighbouring places, all squatted upon the ground. I was requested to
+squat down amongst them, which I did near a raised mud-bench. There was
+little light, the place being built to shut out the glare and heat of
+the sun. Here I waited a quarter of an hour, till the Sultan was
+announced by the cries of the soldiers, slaves, and domestic officers.
+His highness took his seat upon the mud-bench; and whilst so doing his
+attendants all squatted down, many of them taking up the dust from the
+ground and throwing it over their bare heads, and crying, "Long live the
+Sultan! God bless him!" This is the first occasion on which I have
+witnessed this degrading custom, this abject worship of the
+representative of power. The scene was perfectly African and negro.
+
+I was squatted amidst a number of courtiers, one of whom had a sort of
+double skull, another smaller skull raised above the larger one,--a
+protuberance which came from an accident in infancy. This double-skulled
+man was the chief of the domestics.
+
+The Sultan was in a merry humour, and smilingly asked after my health.
+We then read our letters of recommendation, which pleased him. He
+observed that the route _viâ_ Aheer was good. "How good," asked Yusuf,
+"when we are arrived here naked, and stripped of everything?" At which
+his highness burst out, laughing, with all the people. There was now
+observed a little bustle behind, and his highness called out "Silence!"
+like a sheriff in a court of law. I begged the interpreter to tell the
+Sultan that our present was small, for we had been stripped by the
+Tuaricks. This he whispered in his ear; after which I slipped a packet
+of powder and shot into the hands of one of the principal courtiers,
+telling him it was for the Sultan, and he carried it off. I did not
+place it with the other presents, because the servant of Haj Bashaw,
+sent from Kuka, forbad my giving his highness any powder and shot,
+alleging, that this Sultan was always disaffected, and the Sheikh would
+disapprove of my giving him munitions of war. But I was determined to
+give fifty bullets and two dozen charges of powder, believing that he
+could do the Sheikh little harm, whilst it would make him my personal
+friend. No person knew what I gave the Governor.
+
+The powder and shot being delivered, I took leave of his highness,
+raising my cap and shaking hands with him. At this doffing off the cap
+all the people were highly gratified, thinking great respect was thereby
+shown to their prince.
+
+Ibrahim is a negro, a native of Zinder, a man of fifty years of age,
+with a countenance sparkling with good humour, and I believe I may add,
+intelligence. He has been Sultan here some thirty years, so that he must
+be a man of character. This day he received a renewal of his commission
+from Kuka, a ceremony that takes place every year; and so he was in a
+happy humour. There was also a sort of feast at the palace, and his
+highness rode out with a detachment of cavalry. The persons who brought
+our camels from Kuka also brought the renewed commission, or a man, from
+the Sheikh. Haj Beshir has sent us ten camels, to bring the boat and our
+baggage, in the event of our camels being stolen, or having become weak
+with the journey from Mourzuk. I have, therefore, only to sell my camels
+and turn them into ready money, which I much need, and then start.
+
+We afterwards called again on the Shereef, and had a laugh about the man
+with two skulls. I told the Shereef "two heads were perhaps better than
+one," at which they all burst out laughing. The Shereef was surrounded
+by foreign merchants, all chatting in good humour. These Moors were
+friendly to me. To-day I dressed in my European clothes; first, because
+unless you have very good clothes, such as worn by the people of the
+country, you cut a very bad figure; and secondly, and principally, to
+show the Kailouees, and other strangers, that I was now in a friendly
+place, and that no one dare say anything to me in the way of insult. In
+fact, as yesterday, there is not even a whisper of the word _Kafer_. His
+highness and all the people admired my European gear. I told them that
+now the Turks dressed in the same manner, or nearly so; at which they
+were greatly surprised. I had on a black surtout, tight trousers, and
+varnished boots, gloves, neckerchief, waistcoat; everything European but
+the hat, wearing instead of this the fez cap or shasheeah.
+
+In the evening I paid a visit to the family of En-Noor, who were greatly
+astonished at my transfiguration from a bad Moorish dress into an
+European suit. They were much disconcerted at this change, and my happy
+humour. Madame En-Noor rated me for running away from them yesterday. I
+told them I wished to get to my friends of Bornou as quickly as
+possible. My interpreter also informed them that the Sheikh had sent
+camels, and enlarged on the anxiety of everybody here for our safety.
+They were all displeased at this news, as a reflection upon them and the
+conduct of the Tuaricks. They now beheld quite a change in everything. I
+was anxious to mark this change in our circumstances, that they might
+reflect how they treated Europeans again when fallen into their hands.
+At the same time I showed a desire not to hurt their feelings, wishing
+to be on friendly terms with them whilst here.
+
+The Kailouees are all excessively quiet now. All feel the power of the
+Sheikh, and are almost as submissive as if they were at Mourzuk.
+However, the family of En-Noor still keep begging. But I believe now I
+must finish with them. The Sultan is said by his servants to have gone
+to Tesaoua. I am extremely glad I came without him to this place.
+Perhaps he also was ashamed to bring me. From Tesaoua he will be here
+after some days. People call him, as in Aheer, An-Nour, and not En-Noor.
+The prince of Zinder asked, where is An-Nour? The people are still at
+work preparing this chieftain's apartments, consisting of a circular
+wall of matting, enclosing a number of huts; there is a mud-house in the
+middle, but it is now fallen into ruins.
+
+I made a tour of the town, and was still more pleased than before with
+its size. It is said to contain 20,000 inhabitants. There are many
+divisions, separated by blocks of granite, and small hills. We visited
+the Kaïd of a district. He immediately brought us ghaseb-water and milk.
+Really the world seems turned upside down when the conduct of the people
+here is compared with the hospitality which we received from En-Noor,
+although he personally paid us some attentions not vouchsafed by others.
+We came through the souk, where were the sticks of meat roasting, and
+lots of people. No one whispered _Kafer_! The Shereef sent me a horse to
+ride on when I go out, and recommends me to do so.
+
+The scavengers of Zinder are a multitudinous host of a small species of
+filthy-looking vultures, brown and black in colour: they are exceedingly
+tame, for the people never touch them, and they walk about the streets
+tamer than the fowls. I believe the same species of vulture are also the
+scavengers of Kanou. At Zinder they take their evening exercise by
+flying in circles over the city, a hundred or two together. There are a
+few white ones amongst the flock. The Sultan sent for a piece of camphor
+this morning. I gave him some, with a silver French coin and a new
+English farthing.
+
+The news is, that I must stay here ten days, to oblige the slaves who
+have been sent from Kuka to carry the baggage. We are also to stay at
+Minyo a few days, _en route_ four days from this.
+
+I spent the evening gleaning information of the interior. There is now
+no war in any part of Central Africa, i.e. no great wars. Probably the
+princes of Africa, like those of Europe, find that war will not pay. At
+any rate, all is peace for the present. This will facilitate our
+progress. I had a visit from the son of the Kadi of Kuka, an intelligent
+young man, who has promised to come to-morrow to write the routes from
+Zinder to his native place.
+
+I have obtained a list of the names of the principal sultans in this
+part of Africa:
+
+1. Bornou--The Sheikh Omer, the son of the sheikh who reigned in the
+time of the first expedition. He has now reigned fourteen years. He has
+a good character.
+
+2. Sakkatou--Sultan of the Fellatahs, Ali. He is not so great as his
+father Bello, celebrated in the time of the first expedition.
+
+3. Asben, or Aheer--Abd-el-Kader.
+
+4. Maradee--Binono.
+
+5. Gouber--Aliou (Ali).
+
+6. Niffee--Khaleelou. The name of the capital is Gondu. The Sultan is a
+Fullan, but independent of Sakkatou, as are many other Fullan princes.
+
+7. Adamaua--Lauel. He is called by the Fullans Madubbu-Adamaua, i.e.
+Sultan or Kakam of Adamowa. He is a Fullan, but the people whom he
+governs are all Kohlans, or negroes.
+
+8. Yakobah--Ibrahim. His father was called Yakobah, and the country has
+probably derived its recent name of the late sultan; the capital is
+called Baushi. The rulers are Fellatahs.
+
+9. Kanou--Osman Bel-Ibrahim.
+
+10. Kashna--Mohammed-Bello.
+
+11. Zaria--Mahommed Sani.
+
+12. Kataguni--Abd-er-Rahman.
+
+13. Kadaija--Ahmadou.
+
+14. Timbuctoo--Mohammed Lebbu, a Fellatah.
+
+15. Jinnee--
+
+16. Begharmi--Burkmanda.
+
+17. Mandara--
+
+18. Lagun--
+
+19. Zinder--Ibrahim.
+
+The alliances and enmities, the wars and the intrigues of all these
+princes, will one day, perhaps, form materials for some
+semi-mythological history, when civilisation has removed its camp to
+these intertropical regions. Regular annals, however, there never can
+be. No record seems to be kept, except in the unfaithful memories of the
+natives; and even if the contrary were the case, posterity would
+willingly consign to oblivion all but the salient points of this period
+of barbarism and slave-hunting.
+
+Daura is a city of great antiquity, but I have never seen it on the
+maps. It is two days from Zinder on the route to Kanou, and has now
+about the same number of inhabitants as Zinder, or from 20,000 to
+25,000.
+
+Ancient Haussa, according to the Monshee, consisted of seven cities,
+viz.
+
+1. Kanou.
+
+2. Kashna. This city is now about three times the size of Zinder.
+
+3. Daura.
+
+4. Zaria.
+
+5. Gouber.
+
+6. Maradee.
+
+7. Zanbara. This city is now about the size of Kashna. It lies beyond
+Gouber, not far from Sakkatou.
+
+I went to see the souk. There are two market-days in Zinder: the great
+souk on Thursday, and the little one on Friday, the days following one
+another. I rapidly passed through it; it was full of people and
+merchandise; all things in abundance; no one called after me, but I did
+not like to stay long to expose myself. The principal provisions and
+domestic animals offered for sale are cattle (oxen), sheep, camels,
+asses, goats, beef, mutton, samen, honey, ghaseb, ghafouley, a little
+wheat, dried fish (rather stinking, because no salt is used in drying),
+kibabs or roasted pieces of meat, beans, dankali or sweet potatoes;
+which last are brought from Kanou, as also is the fish, &c. I purchased
+three sweet potatoes for a fifth of a penny. There was, besides, also a
+good quantity of merchandise of every sort, and slaves in numbers. Honey
+also is brought from Kanou to this souk. In Kanou, twelve pounds and
+a-half are sold for four thousand wadâs, or four-fifths of a dollar. In
+Zinder, the same quantity sells for about double the price. They
+adulterate here and send it to Aheer.
+
+In the evening I went with the Shereef to his garden. He has brought
+with him the tastes of the people of Morocco for gardens, and has
+introduced into Zinder tomatas from Kuka. His beds contain onions,
+peppers, cucumbers, wheat, lemons, date-palms, and some other small
+things. There is a little wheat also, but merely as an ornament. The
+date-palms bear twice a-year, but the dates do not dry in this country.
+There is a part of Soudan where the dates are said to become dry as
+those of Fezzan. The lemons are as good as those on the north coast, but
+they are found only in Soudan. But two or three trees have been seen in
+Bornou. Onions are in abundance, and it is said that those people who
+eat onions do not catch the fevers of Soudan. The Shereef considers the
+horses of this country to have little strength--not to be compared with
+those of the north coast. He has sent me one to ride round the environs.
+We conversed upon Algerian affairs. The Shereef said nothing against the
+French in general; he only complained of the non-fulfilment of the
+treaty of capitulation with Abd-el-Kader and his fellow-prisoners. I
+told him Bou Mâza was liberated, which news surprised him. He said Bou
+Mâza was a fool, and had no followers. All the conversation of the
+Shereef was marked with good sense. He had been in Malta, and resided
+there two months. His native place is two days' journey from Tangiers.
+He is well acquainted with Christians. He speaks with a strong Mogarbi
+accent. As to this country and the Tuaricks, he observed the Sheikh was
+determined to keep them down, and was not afraid of them.
+
+The Shereef possesses a fair amount of women--some twenty, but only one
+son. I sent this evening presents of rings to the ladies.
+
+Yusuf paid a visit to the Sultan this morning, to carry him a present on
+his part. He entered the interior of the building, and found it full of
+dirt, and bare of every species of furniture. The Sultan himself had
+only upon him a Soudan tobe and a white cap. All the rest of his people
+were bare-headed, and were covered with dirty tobes. This contempt of
+dress arises from the fact that the prince was a slave of the ancient
+Sultans of Bornou. There are, besides, other sultans _en route_ to Kuka,
+of the same stamp; but he of Minyo is said to dress excessively,
+changing his costume five times a-day. We are to remain some days in
+Minyo, of which I am glad, because there we shall see the Bornouese
+population, in a purer state. Here it is mixed somewhat with the
+Kailouees and other tribes. At any rate, the manners of the people are
+somewhat influenced by the great number of foreigners. En-Noor and
+Lousou have both houses in Zinder, which the people dignify by the name
+of _belad_ or "villages," but which are simply enclosures of a few huts.
+
+I have been endeavouring to collect materials for the statistics of
+Zinder. The following note exhibits a partial result:--
+
+Various persons give the population of Zinder at 25,000 or 30,000 souls.
+Let us take the number at 20,000.
+
+The military force consists of cavalry and foot--two thousand cavalry
+having swords, spears, and shields; and eight or nine thousand bowmen,
+having only bows and arrows. This force is commanded by one Shroma Dan
+Magram, who receives the enormous pay of half the land taxes of some
+fifty towns and villages in the circle of the province of Zinder. The
+officers of the Sultan of Zinder are mostly slaves.
+
+The principal personages are Shroma Dan Magram; the Kady, Tahir; the
+Bash Kateb, or Secretary, Dang Gambara; the chief of the Treasury,
+Nanomi; of the Custom-house, Fokana. There are four officers of the
+Treasury, and four of the Custom-house; and, moreover, four Viziers, the
+principal of whom is Mustapha Gadalina.
+
+The Arabs do not pay any custom duties, but all the blacks and the
+Kailouees and Fullans pay as follows:--
+
+A camel, laden or unladen -- 5000 wadâs.
+An ass    "         "     --  100  "
+An ox     "         "     --  100  "
+
+There is no duty on goods, and, whether the camels are laden with rich
+burnouses or salt, it is all the same thing.
+
+Camels are very cheap in this country, and the best of all will not
+fetch more than 40,000 wadâs, or about sixteen Spanish dollars. The
+Shereef is to purchase ours, four of them for 120,000 wadâs; they cost
+about three times the sum in Mourzuk. Horses are not quite so cheap; the
+best will fetch 100,000 wadâs.[14] The exchange here is the same as in
+Kanou; 2500 wadâs is the value of the large dollar, or douro ghaleet, as
+it is called amongst the Moorish and Arab merchants.
+
+ [14] See p. 216.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+Presents from Officials--Mode of treating Camels--Prices--Cowrie
+Money--Shereef Interpreter--Visits--Harem--Houses--Grand
+Vizier--Picturesque Dances--Tuaricks at Zinder--Kohlans and
+Fullans--Province of Zinder--Account of its Rebellions--Trees--Details
+on the Slave-trade--Prices--Mode of obtaining Slaves--Abject
+Respect of the Sultan--Visits--Interview with the Sarkee--The
+Presence--Curious Mode of administering Justice--Barbarous
+Punishments--Hyænas--Gurasu--Fighis--Place of Execution--Tree of
+Death--Hyæna Dens--Dancing.
+
+
+_Jan. 17th._--The Sultan this morning sent me an ox. I made him my
+personal friend by giving him the powder and shot, in spite of the
+servant of Haj Beshir from Kuka. The Shereef is excessively generous;
+whether at his own cost or that of Kuka I do not know. I suppose the
+latter, as he had orders from head-quarters to supply us with
+everything. He sends rice, honey, fowls, eggs, milk, tomatas, and all
+things in abundance. I repeat, for the third time, that the world is
+turned upside down, so far as the supply of provisions and hospitality
+is concerned. It is true that the Tuaricks are desperately poor, and
+their generosity must always be very limited.
+
+Our maharees of the salt-caravan went very well, and ate little on the
+road, so that much time was saved in this way. The Tuarick camels are
+far better travellers than the Arab, which sometimes are allowed to eat
+all day long. The females and the young ones are the most troublesome. I
+was much amused to see one of the Kailouee camel-drivers overcome the
+obstinacy of a young camel. The fellow actually bit the loose skin which
+hung over the muzzle of the rebel, and in this manner dragged it to the
+string, and there tied it to the rest. All the male camels are gelded,
+whilst many breeding maharees carry no weights, but follow their
+burdened kind with their foals.
+
+To-day, for the first time, I received cowrie money, viz. four cases,
+made of matting, each containing 30,000. This was the price of four of
+my camels. The Gharian brute I sold to one of the servants for 8000. It
+is quite a labour to count this money, but I perceive that some persons
+are exceedingly expert at it, and count 5000 in a few minutes. There
+would appear to be always some mistakes made; one case was found to have
+ninety-eight short. This certainly is not much out of 30,000, and when a
+dozen people were counting. The small and large shells are all alike,
+and of the same value. But I shall be able to say more of this money
+afterwards. Thirty thousand of these shells are many pounds in weight,
+and not very conveniently carried about.
+
+I visited some of the principal personages this afternoon, with the
+interpreter of the Sultan. This interpreter is a Shereef, and has been a
+sailor, in which capacity he has seen Malta, and many European
+countries. He is now married to a daughter of the Sultan of Zinder, and
+is established here in the confidence of his father-in-law. It appears,
+then, that even common Moorish sailors make their way in these black
+countries.
+
+The first person we visited was one of the viziers, called Mayaha, a
+native of Damagram, a place one day east, from whence the greater part
+of the population of Zinder is drawn. This personage was sufficiently
+polite. He gave me permission to see the interior of his house, and his
+harem. The harem was full of fine, handsome Haussa slaves, attending on
+his four wives; they were all polished, and apparently clean, lying
+about on the floors of the huts, and in the court-yards, in the most
+strenuous idleness--one cleaning, polishing, and decorating another. One
+was bolder than the rest, and beckoned me to come to her.
+
+This house of this vizier contained many huts of bee-hive shape; one or
+two were built of sun-dried earth, but all were small. Few carpets, or
+even mats, were seen: these people of Zinder are most dearly fond of
+squatting on the naked dust.
+
+Afterwards I visited the Grand Vizier, or Mustapha Gadalina (a title).
+This personage, a man of great age, was polite, but did not permit me to
+enter the interior of his house. We then went to see the
+Commander-in-chief--a funny fellow. He was very civil to us, and to all,
+joking with his soldiers, amidst whom he was squatting. These Zinder
+troops have no arms in their undress, and only wear a loose tobe, with
+bare heads. The General told us he would visit us in the morning.
+
+After a climb to the summit of one of the granite rocks of Zinder to
+have a view of the town, I went to see and hear the drummers hammering
+on their kangas. There were three of them, surrounded by a group of
+Zinder maidens. One fellow had two long drums, very narrow, on which he
+laboured with all his might. The maidens approached the musicians by
+twos, dancing or stepping forward, and retreating with great apparent
+modesty. Whilst I was looking at a couple, one of them ran up to me, and
+struck me lightly with her hand. For this attention I was obliged to
+give her a present of gour-nuts, which are equally current with the
+cowries on such occasions. The drum is the national music of the people
+of Zinder, and they hammer away at it from morning to night. They say
+that in the palace it never ceases all day, beginning at dawn. Perhaps
+it may be esteemed useful in supplying the place of silly conversation.
+
+Very few Tuaricks are to be seen in the streets of this city. They
+rarely show themselves, except on market-days, when they come from their
+houses in the suburbs. Little cordiality exists between them and the
+Binder people. They owe one another, like all neighbouring people, many
+grudges. I jocularly told the commander-in-chief to kill all the
+Tuaricks. He naïvely replied, "I would, but when I attack them they all
+run away!" I am informed by the Moors here the Tuaricks have a wholesome
+dread of the Sheikh, and are on bad terms with the Fullans. They are,
+however, for the most part, friendly with the ancient Kohlans, the
+people of Maradee and Gouber. This accounts for the fact that En-Noor
+always spoke in the most amiable way of these remaining kingdoms of
+Soudan paganism. The town of Zinder is inhabited chiefly by the blacks
+of the Bornouese province of Damagram, who, though speaking the same
+language, are not considered Bornouese. In fact, properly speaking, it
+is situated in that province. The Zinder folks are easily distinguished
+from the natives of Kuka, and those more eastern provinces, by a lighter
+complexion and the smaller breadth of their nostrils.
+
+Zinder has always enjoyed much liberty as a province, though it has
+fallen successively under the influence of Bornou and Haussa princes.
+Anciently it was ruled by the former; then it lapsed to the Haussa
+princes and the Fullans, and finally it was again recovered by Bornou.
+The present prince, Ibrahim, has been sultan twenty-five years. Under
+his rule a rebellion took place against the Sheikh, who removed him,
+made him prisoner, and promoted his brother to the governorship of the
+province. But this new prince also rebelled; upon which the Sheikh came
+with a large force a year ago, and restored the former governor,
+placing, however, several persons here as a check on his authority. I
+have already mentioned the influence of the Shereef of Morocco. But no
+people in the world detest central government so much as the Africans,
+and these rebellions occur yearly and monthly.
+
+The facts which have been mentioned to me connected with the last
+rebellion of Zinder, and its reduction by the Sheikh of Bornou, are
+interesting, as illustrative of the present condition of these
+out-of-the-way countries. The re-conquest proved to be no easy matter,
+and required three months' siege, and sixty thousand men, commanded by
+the Sheikh's best officers and the sultans of the neighbouring
+provinces. When the revolted people had notice of the approach of this
+force, they threw up a wall of earth round the city in the brief space
+of three days only. Even Africans can be energetic when compelled by
+necessity. The siege lasted three months, and many people were killed on
+either side.
+
+Before hostilities commenced the Sheikh sent for the brother of the
+deposed prince, whom he had placed in power at Zinder; but the answer
+was refusal. "If you want money," said the rebel chieftain, "here it is;
+if you want slaves, here they are;--but I will not come to Kuka."
+Ibrahim, the former and present sultan, had meanwhile gone to the
+capital, and covered himself with dust in the presence of the Sheikh,
+and obtained his pardon and the promise of his restoration to power. His
+brother knew this well, and, of course, would not go to the capital. It
+is surprising, however, that the rebellion could hold out so long
+against so large a force; the people of Zinder must be framed for war.
+The Tuaricks during the struggle stood by and looked on. The displaced
+brother is now at Kuka, having there obtained the pardon of the Sheikh.
+He fled to the Tuaricks after the capture of the town.
+
+There are several pretty shady trees scattered through the town of
+Zinder, planted mostly in the gardens of the grandees. The names of
+three of these are, in Bornouese, rimi, jaja, and ilbug.
+
+I have obtained some information on the slave-trade, which I here give
+in its crude shape. Slaves are classed as follows:--
+
+MALES.
+
+1st. Garzab: those who have a beard.
+ 2d. Morhag: those with beard beginning.
+ 3d. Sabaai: those without beard.
+4th. Sadasi: grown children.
+5th. Hhamasi, or children.
+
+
+FEMALES.
+
+Ajouza, old women, not classified.
+1st. Shamalia: those with the breasts hanging down.
+ 2d. Dabukia: those with the breasts plump.
+ 3d. Farkhah: those with little breasts.
+4th. Sadasia: girls, smaller.
+5th. Hhamasiah, or children.
+
+The best of the slaves now go to Niffee, to be there shipped for
+America; they are mostly males, of the class 2d, 3d, 4th, and are
+minutely examined before departure. From all reports, there is an
+immense traffic of slaves that way exchanged against American goods,
+which are driving out of the markets all the merchandise of the north.
+
+
+_Prices:_--I. MALES.
+
+1st. From 10,000 to 15,000 wadâs.
+ 2d.      30,000 and under.
+ 3d.      35,000    "
+4th.      30,000    "
+5th.      20,000    "
+
+II. FEMALES.
+
+1st.  10,000 and under. (Ajouza.)
+ 2d.  80,000    "
+ 3d. 100,000    "
+4th.  40,000    "
+5th.  30,000    "
+6th.  20,000    "
+
+The above are the prices of Kanou; there is sometimes a difference of
+5,000 or 10,000 wadâs. A remark suggested by this list of prices is,
+that the value of human merchandise is determined by its present
+adaptation for consumption. No allowance is made for capability of
+development, intellectual or physical. Slave-drivers and slave-holders
+believe as little in a future here as hereafter.
+
+I give another account of the prices of slaves at the principal markets
+in this part of Africa, and at Smyrna and Constantinople. A good male
+slave is sold, at
+
+Kanou, for 10 or 12 dollars.
+Zinder, the price varies little.
+Mourzuk, for 40 dollars.
+Tripoli, from 60 to 65 dollars.
+Smyrna, 90 to 100 dollars.
+Constantinople, 90 to 100 dollars.
+
+A good female slave is sold, at
+
+Kanou, for 32 dollars.
+Zinder, a little more, or the same.
+Mourzuk, 85 dollars.
+Tripoli, 100 dollars.
+Smyrna, 130 dollars.
+Constantinople, 130 dollars.
+
+This is merely to show the difference of prices at these various places
+of slave traffic, and so enable the reader to form some notion of the
+profits of the commerce.
+
+I am very sorry to hear of the iniquitous manner in which slaves are
+captured for the supply of the north at this present time. It appears
+that, now all these populations are Muslims, it is difficult to get up
+the war-cry of _Kafers!_--"Infidels!" What is then done? The sultan of a
+province foments a quarrel with a town or village belonging to himself,
+and then goes out and carries off all the people into slavery. Thus acts
+the present Sultan of Zinder, and so did his brother during his year of
+administration. To appease the Sheikh of Bornou they send him a portion
+of the spoil. Indeed, the Sheikh countenances the system, so detrimental
+to his interests as a sovereign, and so immoral in its character. The
+brother of the present sultan was accustomed to go out every month, and
+bring in razzias of slaves, particularly to Dura, a country which
+belongs half to the Sheikhs of the Fullans. The real Kerdi people are
+now very distant, and you must go many days' journey if you will catch
+genuine Kafer slaves.
+
+On Friday, Yusuf paid his respects to the Sultan at noon, being the
+Sunday of the Muslims, when visits are made by true believers to the
+princes. He found his highness surrounded by his court, in a cloud of
+dust, which the people raised by throwing it in handfuls upon their
+heads, and thus doing homage to their prince. Yusuf and some other Moors
+obstinately abstained from such a grovelling mode of "rendering to
+Cæsar the things which are Cæsar's," and contented themselves with
+saluting his highness in the Moorish fashion. Yusuf observed, "Our
+religion does not teach this servility." The natives salute their Sultan
+by the cry of "God give you victory!" (i.e. over your enemies.) In
+Soudanee this phrase is "_Allah shàbáka nasăra_;" and in Bornouese,
+"_Kábunam sherga!_"
+
+_18th._--I sent letters for Government and my wife _viâ_ Kuka, as
+caravans are expected to leave Bornou for Moursuk about this time. My
+rooms were full of visitors to-day. First came the commander-in-chief,
+Shroma. I showed him all my treasures, portable peepshow, kaleidoscope,
+&c. &c. He was marvellously pleased. I treated him also with sugar, but
+coffee he positively refused as too bitter. He brought with him some
+twenty of his troops and a chosen aide-de-camp. He is just the man for a
+negro commander, full of cunning and address, very active if necessary,
+and on familiar terms with his men, pleasing them by low fun and
+buffoonery. Afterwards came the sons of the Sultan, all of whom I
+treated with sugar and coffee: that is, as many as would venture to
+taste of it. Then followed a host of Fezzan merchants, with the son of
+the Kadi of Kuka--a very nice, pleasant young fellow, who writes pretty
+good Arabic. He is to make out for me the route from Zinder to Kuka.
+
+I afterwards went to the Sultan himself, to show him my treasures, viz.
+peepshows and kaleidoscope. These barbarians are nothing but great
+wilful children. I also took the compass. We entered the interior of the
+building, where we found a number of officers, courtiers and slaves,
+squatted together on the sand, chatting most familiarly on all subjects.
+The building is all made of mud, mixed with large grains of granite.
+They say all the buildings of Bornou are built in the same manner, and
+very few of stone, on account of the rain; for the stone, not being well
+cemented together, falls during the great rains of the tropics.
+
+After we had been kept waiting about half an hour his highness made his
+appearance, the courtiers and slaves throwing dust on their heads,
+prostrating themselves on the ground before him, crying, "God give you
+victory over your enemies!" Whilst the Sultan took his seat upon the
+raised mud-bench, the slaves held up two wrappers or barracans, to
+shield his highness from public view whilst he took his seat. All the
+floor of the apartment was covered with a dense mass of people, and
+amongst the number several Tuaricks, including the Sheikh Lousou, and
+Haj Abdoua, another distinguished Tuarick. Lousou is a tall thin man, of
+light complexion, with European features--a perfect Targhee. His manners
+were very mild, and indeed all this tribe are gentle enough here in a
+foreign country. The Sheikh shook me cordially by the hands. I then
+commenced business as showman to the prince and this mass of people. At
+first his highness was timid, and would not look through the glasses of
+the peepshows, but when the people began he followed, and acquired the
+knack of looking through in a very short time. My compass and watch and
+keys were then all examined, and produced great amusement. What pleased
+him much was the screw by which the compass was stopped. I was
+dreadfully frightened lest the watch should be broken as well as the
+compass, and indeed the former has received some damage: such machines
+should not be handled by these negro grandees.
+
+Whilst this examination was going on, his highness, as if he had little
+time to lose, continued to administer justice. Several cases were
+settled whilst the worthy Sultan was looking through the peepshow and
+kaleidoscope. Among others, a man came forward in great agitation, and
+cried, "O Sultan! my wife will not live with me, and has run away to her
+father. I will give you three bullocks if you will fetch her back and
+make her live with me!" The Sultan smiled, and observed only, "Hem, your
+wife won't live with you! Well, what can I do?" Another man came forward
+and cried, "O Sultan! I am a thief, but you must pardon me. I stole this
+mat because I was a poor man" (holding up the mat). "I restore the mat."
+His highness observed, "Leave it; I will see what can be done." A
+collection of stolen articles was restored also by another person. Then
+came a man more bold, and brought a present from a neighbouring village,
+consisting of two large bowls of ghaseb and a bundle of wood. The man
+made a great clamour, holding up the present. His highness looked at
+him, and said, "Good, good; put them down."
+
+I am told his highness is much feared by all the people of the
+provinces. He has the character of being impartial. But the way in which
+he carries out capital punishment is truly terrible, and beyond
+conception barbarous. He neither hangs nor beheads. This mode of
+punishment is too mild for him. No; he actually cuts open the chest, and
+rips out the heart! or else hangs up people by the heels, and so
+inflicts upon them a lingering death. I am astonished that the Sheikh of
+Bornou permits such barbarity, but imagine that the Sheikh is still
+afraid of his vassal, and shrinks from endeavouring to deprive him of
+this awful power. Here, then, we have a specimen of the negro character,
+with all its contradictions; soft and effeminate in its ordinary moods;
+cheerful, and pleasant, and simple, to appearance; but capable of
+acting, as it were without transition, the most terrible deeds of
+atrocity. Say what you will of the barbarism of the Tuaricks, such a
+mode of inflicting capital punishment is unknown amongst them. I took
+leave of his highness, promising to come again another day and bring
+other things.
+
+This evening we were disturbed by the cries of the hyæna; a large one
+had come down upon the calves belonging to a drove of bullocks, and
+carried off one as big as itself. The brute seizes its prey by the
+throat, and so prevents the animal from giving intelligence to its
+pursuers. The place of execution is near my house, and when the Sultan
+executes any criminal the body is left unburied. At such times, troops
+of hyænas, old and young, come down in the night, from the rocks and
+open country, and devour the body in a few minutes. The jackal does not
+visit this place, but is found in the open country. There are also many
+lions on the road between this and Kuka.
+
+A very simple mode of salutation is prevalent here in Zinder, said to be
+the custom of Wadaï--that of merely clapping the palms of the hand
+together; the hand being held forward flat, not edge-ways.
+
+Gurasu is an interesting Tuarick territory, three days' journey
+north-east from Zinder, and two days from Minyo. This country consists
+of a number of small villages, scattered upon the rocks, or mountains.
+The inhabitants are especially those banditti who, from time to time,
+plunder the caravans on the route from Bornou to Mourzuk. Gurasu is
+seven days from Kanem, and Kanem is three days from the Bornou route.
+Kanem is mostly a desert country, and has now only a few inhabitants.
+
+Gurasu and Damerghou are the only Tuarick countries adjoining the
+provinces of the Sheikh of Bornou, and Gurasu is the last country east
+in this part of Africa. There is but very slight communication between
+it and Zinder; and little is known of the people, except that they are
+Tuaricks.
+
+_19th._--I again entertained visitors, who are still numerous, of all
+classes; and also paid a visit to the Shereef, and took with me the
+kaleidoscope, as he expressed a wish to see its revolving glowing
+beauties.
+
+Zinder is full of half-crazy fighis, who can just write the Arabic
+alphabet. They go about the streets begging piteously, with a calabash
+inkstand and reed-pen in their hands. I have been pestered with two or
+three every day since I came here. They also wander through the country
+parts of Damerghou. Bornou is the nursery of these silly pedagogues, in
+whom learning and madness are most cordially united; but, as I have
+already mentioned, it sends out a few instructed ones to redeem the
+reputation of these ignoramuses.
+
+In the afternoon I went to see the place of execution, and found it
+covered with human bones, the leavings of the hyænas, whose dens are
+close by. Proceeding a little further I came to the Tree of Death! a
+lonely tree springing out of the rocks, some forty or fifty feet in
+height, and of the species called here _kanisa_. My guide would not
+approach it very near, for he assured me that if any person went under
+its boughs, there must instantly come an order from the Sultan to put
+him to death, or hang him heels upwards upon its branches. "Don't you
+see the place is swept clean underneath its boughs? This is done every
+day, and by the executioner alone: no other person dare go there, for if
+he do he must die!" I certainly began to feel sick myself at the recital
+of various horrors perpetrated at this place by the executioner, and
+don't know whether, if any one had offered me some great reward, I would
+have ventured to place my feet upon this accursed spot of mother earth.
+Never in my life did I feel so sick at heart--so revolted at man's
+crimes and cruelties. The tree itself was a true picture of death--a
+tree of dark, impenetrable foliage, with a great head, or upper part
+larger than the lower one, and this head crowned with fifty filthy
+vultures, the ministers of the executioner, which eat the bodies of the
+criminals! The number of executions here performed is very great--some
+two or three hundred in a year. Since we have been here a man has been
+butchered in the night, scarcely a hundred yards from my house; so that
+I am in a pleasant neighbourhood, what with the executions and what with
+the hyænas. The people pretend that for a small offence the Sultan
+inflicts capital punishments: for example, merely speaking bad language.
+
+Turning from these disagreeable scenes, we went to see the dens of the
+hyænas, which are beneath the rocks, extending far under ground. Here
+we saw bones and dung enough. The scavengers of Zinder are, therefore,
+the vultures and hyænas: the former wing the air and dart on their prey
+by day, and the latter prowl the streets by night.
+
+In the evening we refreshed our fancies by witnessing the kanga, or
+drums beating to the dances of the maidens of Zinder. It is always the
+same thing, two or three fellows thumping upon their drums, dancing
+round them occasionally themselves, and the maidens approaching these
+drummers with timid steps. To-night they had a sort of hopping-dance, on
+one leg, keeping time to the beating of the drums. These coy maidens
+soon approached, or rather ran at me, and touched me with the hand; this
+done, they claim the right of a present. It is considered a favour to be
+so distinguished.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+
+Brother of the Sultan--Trade of Zinder--Prices--The Sarkee drinks
+Rum--Five Cities--Houses of Zinder--Female Toilette--Another Tree of
+Death--Paganism--Severity of the Sultan--Lemons--Barth and
+Overweg--Fire--Brother of the Sarkee--Daura--Shonshona--Lousou--Slaves
+in Irons--Reported Razzia--Talk with the Shereef--Humble
+Manners--Applications for Medicines--Towns and Villages of Zinder--The
+great Drum--Dyers--Tuarick Visits--Rationale of Razzias--Slaves--"Like
+Prince like People"--French in Algiers--The Market--Old Slave--Infamous
+System--Plan of the great Razzia.
+
+
+_Jan. 20th._--I received visits as usual, and one from a younger brother
+of the Sultan, whom I treated with coffee; and I also gave him a cotton
+handkerchief and a ring, so that he went away highly satisfied. He had a
+numerous train, all of whom had a peep at the show and a bit of sugar.
+This brother of the Sultan is a pleasant-looking fellow, a very
+different character from the man in power. He asked for saffron to
+colour charms with; but I had none to give him.
+
+Those who expect to find Zinder a great commercial dépôt will be much
+disappointed. The principal merchants here are the Sheikhs En-Noor and
+Lousou, and the other Tuarick of Asben, whom I have mentioned, called
+Haj Abdoua. Of Zinder merchants there are but two of consequence, the
+Morocco Shereef, Konchai, and Haj Amurmur, a Tibboo. The latter is
+always resident; but Abd-Effeit, or Shereef Konchai, goes abroad and
+trades. Both these are foreigners. There are, besides, a number of small
+traders, Tibboos and Fezzanees, who drive a few hard bargains with the
+Governor. At the present moment his highness has no money. All the
+specie is quickly carried off to Kuka. The Tuaricks have the goods and
+the money, and often make their own prices; but as they always demand
+ready cash, are obliged to wait long before they can dispose of their
+goods. Burnouses alone bring a great profit; for these are sold to
+sultans, who require a credit of several months. I am afraid I shall
+have to give a very poor account of the commerce of this portion of
+Africa, with reference to its being profitable to Europeans. The greater
+part of the goods in Kanou are cheaper than those found in the markets
+of Fezzan, or even Tripoli. The only way in which this commerce pays the
+Moorish merchants is by the purchase of slaves; and this, from casual
+circumstances _en route_, frequently turns out a loss. All the traders
+found on this road are mostly poor fellows, with small capitals: there
+is no equal to Waldee.
+
+Here is a statement of the prices of provisions in the market of
+Zinder:--
+
+An ox, 10,000 wadâs (for riding).
+
+A cow, for food, 8000.
+
+(N.B. Cows only are eaten, bullocks being used for riding and carrying
+burdens.)
+
+A sheep of the first quality, 1500 wadâs.
+
+A goat of the first quality, 1000.
+
+A good fowl, 100.
+
+A horse (of the best kind and condition), 1,000,000.[15]
+
+An ass: he, 8000 wadâs; she, 6000 wadâs.
+
+A zekka of ghaseb: large, 10 wadâs; small, 6 wadâs.
+
+(N.B. When there is but little rain, a zekka of ghaseb consists only of
+two handfuls.)
+
+A pound of samen, 40 wadâs.
+
+A pound of honey, 60 wadâs.
+
+A zekka of wheat, or one handful, 10 wadâs.
+
+A zekka of rice, or about six handfuls, is 20 wadâs.
+
+A canto of salt, of the weight of about a quarter of a cantar, is now
+sold for 1200, because the salt-caravan has just arrived; but after two
+or three months it will fetch 2500 wadâs.
+
+ [15] 83_l._ 6_s._ The price mentioned in a former page, viz.
+      1000,000 wadâs is evidently erroneous.--ED.
+
+His highness the Sultan expressed the most ardent desire to see and make
+himself acquainted with the rum, and other strong drinks of the
+Christians, having heard from his son-in-law and interpreter, the little
+Shereef, that I had a supply of these liquors with me. After resisting
+some time, I delivered up to his highness half a bottle of mastic, with
+which retiring to his innermost chamber, and taking with him his
+son-in-law, he made himself very merry; so much so, that he was unable
+to make his appearance in public or justice-hall all this day.
+
+The immediate territories of Bornou contain five large and important
+capitals, viz. Zinder, which belongs to Haj Beshir, the prime minister.
+
+Mashena, belonging to Mala Ibrahim, second minister.
+
+Minyo, belonging to Abd-Er-Rahman, brother of the Sheikh.
+
+Yumbi, belonging to the mother of the Sultan.
+
+These capitals are the centres of large populations and provinces.
+
+The taxes are appropriated by the various personages to whom they are
+given by the Sheikh, but these personages are expected to give up to his
+highness the greater part of the funds which they derive from them.
+
+_21st._--I made various routes, and got a statement of the principal
+articles of commerce, as current in Zinder and Kanou, Mourzuk and
+Tripoli. I repeat, there is no chance for an English merchant in this
+part of Africa.
+
+The houses of Zinder are mostly built of double matting, but a good
+number have mud walls and thatched roofs. Others are all built of mud.
+There are no nice mosques with minarets. The residence of the Sultan is
+a fort of mud, with walls of some height; it overlooks all the other
+buildings. The Shereef Kebir has also a mud house, with walls of some
+height. There are two principal streets, running from the south to the
+north; one terminating at the castle of the Governor, and the other in
+the market. These are of some width, there being space for a dozen
+camels to pass abreast. There are, besides, many little squares before
+the houses of the grandees, where the people lounge: the streets are
+always full of idle people.
+
+Instead of _suak_, the women used here the calix of a flower, called
+_furai_, for staining their teeth with a deep amber colour. It is the
+fashion for ladies to dress their hair in solid knots, two of which fall
+over the temples, one over the ear, and the other at the back of the
+head. Some of the women have hair tolerably long. I noticed to-day the
+shonshonah of Daura. It consists of two thick cuts, forming an angle at
+the corner of the mouth, with a few small ones on the temples.
+
+I went to see another Tree of Death, where his highness slaughters
+criminals in the same way as mentioned under the other tree. The space
+beneath the boughs is also swept clean. This tree is more spreading, and
+of another sort; it is crowned with the filthy vultures, which roost day
+and night in considerable numbers on its upper branches. Yusuf tells me
+the history of these trees, when the inhabitants were pagans. It was
+under them that the people sacrificed their oxen and sheep to the deity,
+who was supposed to reside in these trees. Scarcely a generation has
+elapsed since this was the case, so that the people may well dread to
+venture where, in the time of old men yet living, sacrifices, some
+perhaps human, were offered up.
+
+The Sheikh is obliged to keep a tight hand over the inhabitants of
+Zinder, to prevent them from lapsing into paganism. His father made them
+Muslims, and he holds them to the profession of Islamism.
+
+No news from Tesaoua respecting the four persons who were sent to bring
+Drs. Barth and Overweg first to Bornou, before they went to Soudan. I
+have had several patients, but ophthalmia does not prevail here as in
+Damerghou.
+
+A constant succession of visitors troubled me all day long. Another son
+of the Sultan came this morning--quite a young man--and a dozen of boys
+from the palace, some sons of the Sultan, and others of his ministers. I
+gave them all a little piece of white sugar, and sent them off. This is
+the cheapest present.
+
+I am told that all the Tuaricks are dreadfully afraid of the Sultan of
+Zinder, for whenever his highness catches an offender, let him be of
+what tribe of Tuaricks he may, he cuts off his head with as much
+unconcern as a poulterer of Leadenhall market does that of a goose.
+
+I hear now that, since the dispersion of the Walad Suleiman, the route
+of Bornou, from Kuka to the Tibboos, is quite secure.
+
+Some lemons have been brought to me, equal in flavour, though small, to
+those of the north coast. In Soudan they are marvellously cheap; ten are
+sold at Kanou for the fiftieth part of a penny, viz. one wadâ; for the
+same single wadâ forty can be had at Kashna. There are forests of
+lemon-trees in Soudan.
+
+The news has arrived from the salt-caravan, that Barth says that he will
+not return even if they threaten to cut his throat. En-Noor is at
+Tesaoua, and says they should return; but the salt-caravan is distant
+from him, and the communication between the two places is difficult.--I
+had scarcely written these words when the four people sent to bring back
+Drs. Barth and Overweg returned without them, and brought letters from
+my colleagues, each one stating that he should continue his journey as
+previously determined. Ferajee, one of the messengers, pretends that
+En-Noor is going with Overweg to Maradee; which is very unlikely. Dr.
+Barth seems very angry, but his comrade takes matters more easily.
+
+The Shereef Kebir is said to be the only person who has money in Zinder.
+This man monopolises all the power and all the money. I do not know how
+long this will last, but I should think it will soon make both the
+Sultan and the people of Zinder disaffected. As it is, all the merchants
+of Zinder are foreigners, and so have the disposal of all the goods most
+coveted by the blacks, who have only the ghaseb and the cattle.
+
+_22d._--The morning is hazy and mild, the thermometer standing at 57°.
+
+A fire broke out close to us early this morning, and two or three huts
+were immediately consumed. However, the people quenched the flames in a
+very short time. I wonder half the town is not burnt down every now and
+then. Visitors pour in upon me as soon as I am up and dressed; and some
+patients likewise.
+
+The brother of the present Sarkee of Zinder, who ruled a year in Zinder,
+is called Tanimu. He has a great military reputation, and is a brave
+man. During his administration he razzied no less than thirty countries.
+Daura, or Dura, was the principal theatre of his exploits. This Daura is
+a country consisting of about a thousand towns and villages; four
+hundred belonging to the Fullans, and six hundred to the Sheikh of
+Bornou. The Fullanee Sultan is called Mohammed Bello, and he of the
+Sheikh, Sofo Lukudi. The nearest place in Daura is not more than one day
+S.W. of Zinder. The people of the country are remarkably expert in the
+use of the bow and arrow; and their arrows are very strong, piercing
+through, as the people say, _three_ boxes, and afterwards killing a man.
+The wound of these arrows is fatal, the flesh of the smitten part rising
+up immediately into an enormous swelling. The brother of the present
+Sarkee brought in hundreds of slaves from Daura, the people at the same
+time having risen against the authority of the Sheikh.
+
+The blacks of Kanou--not the Fullans--do not scarify their faces like
+their neighbours. The form of the shonshona of Zinder and its provinces
+is four cuts on each side the cheek, but not drawn very near the corner
+of the mouth; that is, rather towards the ears. In Tumbi and Gumel,
+provinces of Bornou, they draw four on the left side of the cheek and
+five on the right side; the cuts not drawn very near either the corner
+of the mouth or the ears. Maradee and Kashna have six cuts on each side
+of the cheek, drawn from the top of the ears down to the corner of the
+mouth. Gouber has four small cuts close to the corner of the mouth. The
+people of the Sheikh of Bornou have two small cuts drawn down the face,
+under each eyelid, and one in the forehead, between the eyes. Even Mekka
+has its shonshona. One of the shereefs here in Zinder, who was born in
+that holy city, has three small cuts on each side his face, drawn down
+the fleshy part of the cheek. It is only in Mekka that the shonshona is
+seen. The other countries of Arabia do not use this disfigurement.[16]
+
+ [16] Many Egyptians, men and women, practise tattooing; and if I
+      mistake not, I have seen evidences of the existence of the
+      practice mentioned in the text in some parts of Egypt.--ED.
+
+The Sheikh Lousou sent his slave to salute me on his part. They say,
+that had we been committed to his care, he would not have fleeced us
+like En-Noor. But I almost question if he would have been strong enough
+to protect us. I observe, again, that all the Tuaricks are well behaved
+in Zinder, and have a wholesome dread of the Sheikh.
+
+Many of the domestic slaves in Zinder are constantly ironed, for fear
+they should run away to the neighbouring towns and villages. The poor
+people live just like convicts. It is only when they are taken to Kuka,
+or to a great distance, that their irons are struck off.
+
+The report is now current in Zinder, that the Sarkee is going, in the
+course of seven or eight days, to razzia some neighbouring place in the
+direction of Daura. They say, even, that he will not scruple to razzia
+some of the villages of Meria if necessary; that is to say, a part of
+the province of Zinder. My informants observed merely, "Oh, he must have
+slaves to pay his debts; and as the largest fish eat the little fish, so
+the great people eat the small people." Thus the protection of Islamism
+is now come to nothing, and the cry is,--"To the razzia!" without
+mentioning even the name of Kafer or Kerdi. In the end this will retard
+the progress of Mahommedanism; for the blacks see that it is now no
+protection for them against their more powerful neighbours and their
+periodical razzias.
+
+I visited several personages this afternoon; first, the Shereef Kebir,
+with whom I ate some broiled fish brought from a neighbouring lake, and
+some fine Bilma dates, soaked in milk. I asked him how it was that the
+Sheikh committed to the governors or sultans of the provinces the awful
+power of life and death. "Oh," replied he, "the Sheikh has given them
+this power that he might not be bothered with their reports about
+criminals. It is far better to finish quick with these people." Where
+there are periodical razzias the sacredness of human life is unknown,
+and the Shereef has been, besides, many years in the camp of
+Abd-el-Kader, where a good deal of sanguinary work was carried on. He
+thought it, therefore, quite right that the Sheikh should not fatigue
+his sovereign conscience by deciding on the lives of criminals and other
+suspected persons, and that the sooner they were hung or slaughtered the
+better.
+
+From the Shereef I passed on to the brother of the Sultan, a young man
+of mild manners. I entered the inner part of the house, where were the
+women. Verily the Zinder people have a strange love of dust, dirt, and
+bare mud walls. In the two or three beehive huts which I explored, there
+was not a single article of furniture, nor a mat to lie down upon. The
+brother of the Sultan was sitting by his sister, and both on the dust of
+the ground, without a mat. I am told, however, that they sleep on mats
+and skins, which are, indeed, cheap enough; two or three pence, or two
+or three hundred wadâs, would purchase a good one. The sister of the
+Sultan was coloured well with indigo, the dark blue of which replaces
+the yellow ochre of the ladies of fashion in Aheer. This Zinder lady had
+also the end of the tufts of her hair--I cannot call them curls--formed
+into clayey sticks of macerated indigo. For the rest, she had little
+clothing, her arms and bust being quite bare. All the other ladies with
+her were coloured in like fashion, and had their hair dressed in a
+similar manner.
+
+Afterwards I visited an old Tripoline Mamluke, who has been up here
+twenty-two long years. He came alone, and has now a household of
+twenty-eight persons, including wives, children, and slaves. He is
+called Mohammed El-Wardi, knew Dr. Oudney, and even mentioned his name,
+recollecting it after so many years. He knew also the other travellers.
+Some of his family are in Kuka.
+
+Various applications are made me for remedies to avert certain evils,
+and one man applied for a means to make him sell his goods quick: this
+was a Tibboo trader.
+
+It would appear that some of the routes from Zinder to neighbouring
+places are not very safe; that from this place to Kanou, even, is
+somewhat dangerous for small parties, there being woods on the road, in
+which lurk banditti, who lie in wait for unprotected caravans. With good
+travelling, Kanou is only eight or ten days from Zinder, and Kashna four
+or five. It is not easy to get the route here by hours, for the people
+are ignorant of this way of reckoning the routes. By days, something may
+be done.
+
+The Moorish merchants resident here pretend that the territory of Zinder
+contains no less than two thousand _belad_, or inhabited spots, towns,
+villages, and hamlets, and some of these are large towns--as large, or
+larger, than Zinder. Damagram is a populous place, more so than Zinder;
+but the whole of the province of Zinder has this name, the people being
+all Damagrama. The town of Damagram was once the capital of the
+province. The large towns are:--
+
+Damagram, one day and a-half south-east.
+Dakusa, five hours south.
+Termeni, three hours south.
+Washa, two days and a-half west.
+Goshi, two days east.
+Bidmuni, one day east.
+Andera, one day east.
+Jegana, one day south.
+Jermo, one day south.
+Guria, one-half day west.
+Meria, six hours south-east.
+Konchai, one day and a-half west.
+Gorgahn, one-half hour.
+Mageria, two days south-west.
+Fatram, two days south.
+Dalladi, six hours north.
+
+All these are towns, some larger than Zinder.
+
+I expect to see the great drum brought here, and to hear it beaten. It
+has led the people of Zinder to the razzia during the time of twelve
+sultans. The drummer, when he beats the drum in leading on the people to
+the razzia, repeats the perpetual chorus of _Jatau chi geri_--"The red
+(Sultan) eats up the country." He is afraid to mention the name of the
+Sultan, and so repeats the word red, as distinguishing royalty; but
+whether in the same way as purple distinguished the Roman emperors, or
+because kings delight in blood, does not appear.
+
+I went to see the process of indigo dyeing. The dyers bore circular pits
+of about fifteen or twenty feet deep, and three feet in diameter, in
+which they throw the things to be dyed, and leave them there. The pits
+are full of the dye, produced by the leaves and the seed of the plant
+called _nila_, sodden in water. They dye tobes and raw cotton, and
+cotton twist; the work is carried on in the open air. About thirty
+people were employed at the pits which I saw. They also prepare indigo
+in a better way than what I saw at these pits.
+
+_23d._--I have not quite done with the Tuaricks, and had many visitors
+of that tribe to-day; amongst the rest, our old friends and robbers,
+Ferajee and Deedee. I told Ferajee I had my boxes full of gold and
+silver, and asked him to buy. He replied, "Ah, el-Consul did not say so
+in Asben; he said _babo_ (there is none)!" At this, all our visitors
+burst out in a roaring laugh. I rejoined, "Oh, no, Ferajee; because I
+was then amongst thieves and robbers." (Continued laughter.) I went to
+see the souk;--everybody was very civil;--no calling Kafer!--Tuaricks
+all as still as mice.
+
+I called upon the Shereef Kebir, and drank with him tea and coffee,
+which he makes in Magrabi fashion, putting the sugar in the tea-pot. I
+observed, "How is this? I hear the Sultan is going soon on a razzia."
+Somewhat disconcerted, he replied, _Allah yâlem!_--"God teaches!" After
+some time, he explained that the Sheikh left his vassals great liberty
+in this matter; that the Sultan of Zinder was permitted to go to Daura
+and eat up the Kohlans, but not the Fullans, between whom and the Sheikh
+there was peace: that is to say, the Fullans were not to be made slaves,
+but the Kohlan subjects of the Fullans might be captured. The Sheikh was
+not friendly to Maradee, and wished the Sultan of Zinder to attack that
+country; but the Sarkee was a friend of Maradee, and would not, &c. &c.
+So it is quite clear these Sarkees, or at any rate the one in Zinder,
+have great latitude of action. After hesitating still more about these
+razzias, the Shereef said, "Oh, you see the strong devour the weak;
+there are no regular governments here."
+
+In the souk to-day, it was proved beyond all doubt that the Zinder
+people sell themselves into foreign slavery. Many of the slaves for sale
+had the Zinder scarified marks on their faces. There were also specimens
+from Maradee. Slaves are sent from Zinder to Niffee. Indeed, it now
+appears that all this part of Africa is put under contribution to supply
+the South American market with slaves.
+
+Zinder is considered within the circle of Soudan, and not to be Bornou,
+but only a Bornouese province. The Sheikh has in this province several
+Tuarick subjects, i.e. Tuaricks settled in the Zinder provinces.
+
+The souk to-day was full of people, but goods of value were wanting.
+Indeed, Zinder is now a poor place. Only the foreigners have any at
+their command. The Sarkee is at this moment desperately poor, and is
+going on this approaching razzia to raise money to satisfy his
+creditors. Verily, this _is_ a "new way to pay old debts."
+
+I heard a curious explanation of the reason why the people of Zinder do
+not use mats or skins to lie down upon in the daytime. It is said they
+are afraid, because the Sarkee does not use them, and they must not
+display a luxurious taste not practised by their prince. This is the
+explanation of the Shereef and the little court of Arabs and Moors by
+which he is surrounded. "Like people like prince" is a proverb which I
+think I have heard.
+
+The Shereef told me this morning that he had made war with France, in
+Algeria, fourteen years, and he had been a prisoner of the French seven
+months. He said the French were people without religion, or faith in
+their words and promises, and could not be trusted. He showed me his
+French passport. However, he seems to have soon forgotten his troubles
+in Algeria, and is quiet now. He writes well, and has received a good
+education. His country is one day east of Tetuan, in the Rif mountains.
+He is likely to be very useful to the Sheikh in Zinder.
+
+I visited the souk again in the evening, and made a few small purchases
+of curiosities; but there are very few things to be got in this market,
+and those mostly come from Kanou. What things are made here are of the
+rudest manufacture.
+
+I passed the slave-market, and was greatly shocked to see a poor old
+woman for sale amongst the rest of human beings. She was offered for six
+thousand wadâs, about ten shillings in English money. It is quite
+impossible to conjecture of what use such a poor old creature can be.
+The Shereef Kebir made a present of a little boy to Saïd of Haj Beshir
+this evening. The poor little fellow looked very pitiful. He was stolen
+from Daura. He has only one cheek marked with the shonshona, because his
+mother lost all the children which she bare before him; and the custom
+is, when a mother thus loses her children, to scarify only one cheek.
+
+The mode of supplying the slave-markets of the north and south is truly
+nefarious, and perhaps surpasses all the wickedness of the Tuaricks. The
+Sarkee of Zinder wants gour-nuts, and has no money to purchase them; he
+sends his servants or officers to a neighbouring village, and they steal
+in open day two or three families of people, and bring them to the
+Sarkee. These poor wretches are immediately exchanged for the gour-nuts.
+A boy steals some trifling articles--a few needles; he is forthwith sold
+in the souk; and not only he, but "if the Sarkee wants money," his
+father and mother, brothers and sisters: and "if the Sarkee is very much
+pressed for money," his familiars search for the brothers of the father,
+and all their relations. Indeed, crime is a lucrative source of supply
+for the prince, and what his vengeance spares from the executioner is
+sold into foreign slavery.
+
+In the approaching razzia, the Sarkee is expected to take the common
+route of Daura, and carry off the villagers subjected to the Sheikh;
+for, contrary to the opinion of the Shereef Kebir, the Sarkee will not
+attack the Kohlans, who are the subjects of the Fullan, but the _bonâ
+fide_ subjects of the Sheikh. He will probably bring back one thousand
+slaves or captives. He will send two hundred to the Sheikh, with such a
+message as this:--"I have eaten up the Kafers of Daura; here is your
+offering of two hundred Kafers." Should the Sheikh receive a
+remonstrance from the Bornou governor of Daura, that the Sarkee of
+Zinder has come upon him and carried off Muslims, his subjects, he will
+shut his ears. In all these razzias the lesser chiefs act an important
+part, and each gets a share. A chief who fights under the Sarkee
+captures fifty slaves, and gives up to the Sarkee twenty-five or thirty,
+keeping the rest for himself and people.
+
+If a single undistinguished man captures five, the Sarkee gets two of
+the five; another captures two, the Sarkee gets one, and the captor one.
+So all have a common interest in these nefarious razzias, and all start
+off with the utmost glee to capture their neighbours, their brethren,
+and to sell them into bondage. The Sarkee of Zinder will take with him
+about five thousand cavalry and thirty thousand foot (bowmen), drawn
+from these portions of the provinces against which the razzia is not now
+directed.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV.
+
+Family of the Sarkee--Converted Jew--Hard Dealings--How to get rid of a
+Wife--Route to Tesaoua--Influence of Slavery--Prices of Aloes and
+Silk--Medicine for a Merchant--Departure of the Sarkee for the
+Razzia--Encampment--Mode of Fighting--Produce of Razzias--Story of the
+Tibboo--Sheikh Lousou--Gumel--Superstitions--Matting--Visit
+of Ladies--The Jew--Incendiaries--Hazna--Legend of Zinder
+Well--Kohul--Cousin of the Sheikh--Female Sheikh--State of the
+Country--Salutations.
+
+
+_Jan. 24th._--The thermometer stood last night at 74° after dark. This
+morning it is, as usual, about 56°. The weather is still hazy; but the
+town is remarkably healthy, and there are very few cases of fever at the
+present time. Zinder, by the people, is said to be always cool.
+
+His highness the Sarkee of Zinder is a prince of true African and
+Asiatic calibre. He has three hundred wives, one hundred sons, and fifty
+daughters; but his women are not prisoners in a harem. His wives and
+daughters are seen about the streets walking alone, and the daughters
+are given in marriage to the grandees of the court. His wives, likewise,
+are often found with paramours outside the palace.
+
+I went to see a Jew who has been some time resident in Zinder. This Jew
+is one of those three who came to Mourzuk with Abd-el-Galeel, and after
+his death turned Muslims, and came up to Soudan and Bornou. He is called
+Ibrahim. The one now in Tesaoua, and who is going with Overweg to
+Maradee, is Mousa; and the other is called Isaac. The Moors put no faith
+in the conversion of these Jews: they say, "These men are always Jews in
+their hearts; they turned Muslims on speculation." It is certain that
+they got handsome presents at Mourzuk from the credulous believers. Of
+others, the Moors say they became Muslims to prevent the Tuaricks from
+killing them. I asked Ibrahim how he passed the Tuarick countries, and
+was informed that the Ghâtees treated him the worst. They swore he was
+not a Muslim, but still a Jew, and demanded one hundred dollars from him
+to pass. He got off with fifty; whilst to the Aheer people he paid about
+twenty dollars. A Christian or a Jew must never think he will be able to
+save his money, or, much less, his credit, by apostatising, for these
+Tuaricks will always swear his conversion is sham, however real it may
+be. He will always have to pay the same money, whether he keep his
+religion or sell it for the chance of saving his worthless gold and
+silver.
+
+All these Jews, however, seem to have thriven in their apostasy. Ibrahim
+of Zinder is worth about six or seven thousand dollars, and, besides
+being a working-jeweller, is a merchant. I tried to exchange some of my
+imitation rings for his silver ones, but it was useless. He had the
+conscience to demand thirty of my nicely-made rings for one of his
+trumpery, ill-made silver ones--silver with a very bad alloy. Then he
+wanted a pretty cotton-print handkerchief for a miserable silver bead.
+With such people it is impossible to strike a bargain. These Barbary
+Jews are the hardest and most tricky dealers in the world. Ibrahim has
+been laid up with a bad leg for five months, and intends going to Kuka
+when he gets better. He wanted me to sell him some mastic, but I
+refused. He said he wished to have one jolly day, but the fellow is
+almost a skeleton with his ulcerous leg.
+
+The Shereef Saghir is quite a character. He has been over the greater
+part of the world, and along the Indian coast--has seen the English in
+India, and the Christians in many ways and manners; and so is free from
+all sort of fanaticism. He wants now to return with me to England. He
+says--Soudan is _bâtal_ (worthless), and that if he take his wife, the
+daughter of the Sarkee of Zinder, with him to the north coast, he will
+sell her, and so finish his connexion with the negroes! I forgot to
+mention that Ibrahim has brought with him a Muslim wife from Mourzuk,
+and has now two or three black wives, and several children.
+
+From the courier who came from Dr. Overweg I have obtained the following
+account of the route from Zinder to Tesaoua:
+
+From Zinder direct west to Tus, 1 hour; village: to Termini, 5 hours;
+village: to Dambidda, 1 hour; a large village: to Babul, 5 hours;
+village: to Gumda, 4 hours; village: to Kurnaua, 4 hours; village: to
+Garagumsa, 5 hours; village: to Shabari, 7 hours; village: to Maizirgi,
+1 hour; large village: to Tesaoua, 5 hours.
+
+Along this route there is abundance of herbage and trees, but no running
+water or wadys. There are wells of great depth. The distances between
+the various villages being in all, when summed up, thirty-eight hours,
+we must consider the whole length of the route three long and four short
+days' journey, as the caravans generally arrive on the fourth day.
+
+Slavery is the curse of all these countries. My Soudan servant, Amankee,
+would not come with me to Zinder, on account of his longing desire to
+see his mother and brother and sisters; and yet, although these feelings
+are deep in the bosoms of all the blacks, they can see their neighbours
+torn away from their houses and carried off in irons with the greatest
+indifference. The slaves of the Sarkee of Zinder are double-ironed, like
+convicts, and in this condition jump through the streets, for they
+cannot walk. The backs of these poor slaves are all ulcerated with the
+strokes of the whip.
+
+I received a visit this morning from the Jew Ibrahim. After a good deal
+of wrangling I exchanged three handkerchiefs for three beads of silver,
+but one of the beads I made him a present of. I was much surprised to
+hear from him that the aloe wood, _aoud el-Komari_, sold in Bornou for
+its equal weight in silver. He also stated that twelve rubtas of raw
+silk sold for one real in Mourzuk and Zinder, whilst fifteen could be
+purchased in Kauou for the same money. What will become of the goods of
+the Germans?
+
+En-Noor's wife, Fatia, sent this morning for medicine to enable her to
+bring forth a child. I maliciously recommended to her a younger husband.
+A Tibboo has continued to pester me to death for a medicine to make him
+profit in his mercantile transactions. To get rid of him, being in a
+merry mood, I scribbled over a piece of paper, and he swallowed it. A
+great number of people come for medicines who are not sick. I generally
+content myself with a bare refusal, explaining that there is no
+necessity; but there is nothing so difficult as to convince a man that
+he is well when once he has persuaded himself of the contrary.
+
+The Sarkee went out this morning to his razzia and does not return for
+some days, so I shall not be able to take leave of his highness. The
+gossips persist in saying that he is dreadfully in want of money, and
+must go out to bring in some slaves to pay his debts. He was attended by
+about one thousand cavalry, and a good number of maharees. He is gone
+southwards. They report that he is indeed gone to Daura, but nothing is
+known positively as to whether he will capture the Sheikh's subjects or
+those of the Fellatahs. The Sarkee, on a former occasion, captured a
+great many people belonging to Germal, one of the Sheikh's provinces,
+and an order was forthwith sent to him to restore them to their homes
+and lands. He was compelled to comply. Besides slaves, the Sarkee will
+bring in bullocks and horses; but the sheep taken are eaten by the
+troops of the razzia. His highness is expected to gather an army of 2000
+horse, and 10,000 on foot, besides camels for provisions and water, when
+completed. The plan and route of the expedition are kept a profound
+secret, so that the army will fall upon the unsuspecting population by
+surprise.
+
+After about three or four hours' ride the Sarkee usually encamps, and a
+souk, or market, is opened at the camp for provisions. "There are no
+women with the _yaki_ (or army of razzia), the men cook and do all the
+work," says my informant. At night the Sultan calls round him his chosen
+troops, and distributes gour-nuts, and makes presents of provisions. He
+then sleeps a few hours, and probably starts at midnight, or as soon as
+the moon rises. A slave, a soldier of the Sarkee, who has been to a
+hundred razzias, tells me, that three years ago this Sarkee went to
+attack him of Daura in his capital. On arriving before the town the army
+of Zinder set fire to all the ghaseb stubble and the garden-trees around
+it. This done, they commenced a regular battle with the besieged. The
+fight continued till night, when the Sarkee of Daura fled. The Zinder
+people carried off a large booty: the share of the Sultan alone was nine
+hundred.
+
+This freebooting prince does not fight himself, but sits down at a
+distance from his troops and overlooks their conduct and manoeuvres; his
+generals command and lead on the attack, whilst a body-guard surrounds
+the sacred person of the monarch. On the occasion referred to, this
+body-guard was covered with mattrass-stuffing to shield off the terrible
+arrows of the Daura people. The greater part of the troops of Zinder
+have only a spear; a few have shields and swords, but none have muskets.
+All the Daura people have bows and arrows. There are numbers of petty
+traders here waiting for the booty of this razzia, and some of the
+creditors of the Sarkee went this morning to wish him God speed. I am
+glad I did not go out to see him start on such a nefarious expedition.
+It appears, however, that we are not to leave for Kuka until the return
+of the army. They intimate that a portion of the spoil will be sent with
+us to the great Sheikh of Bornou: so that after all, however unwilling,
+we shall seem to countenance this bloody work.
+
+_26th, Sunday._--We have still to remain here another week at least, so
+I must make what use I can of the time of this delay, caused by the
+nefarious razzia, now in course of operation. In the extravagant manner
+that this government of Zinder conducts its affairs, it can only support
+itself by periodical expeditions of this kind. There is one Fez merchant
+here, to whom the Sarkee owes four millions of wadâs, or about two
+thousand reals of Fezzan; and other creditors claim in a like
+proportion. Now, indeed, we begin to understand how the slave-markets of
+quasi-civilised countries are supplied by the surplus produce of these
+expeditions.
+
+The route from Aghadez to the country of Sidi Hashem, now governed by
+his son, is three days' journey, and from the country of Sidi Hashem to
+Wadnoun, three days: there is also a route of five days, a little more
+direct; and the route direct from Aghadez to Wadnoun is four days'
+journey.
+
+The story of the Tibboo is going the round of the town, and becoming the
+daily gossip. This story has now assumed a substantial historical shape.
+The facts are, as I have already intimated, that the Tibboo persecuted
+me to give him a medicine to enable him to trade with profit. I
+scribbled over a bit of paper, cut in the shape of a dollar, the number
+10,000 dollars, and told him to swallow it, and afterwards to bring it
+me in the same state. The price for this was a fowl. He swallowed the
+paper, and went off to get the fowl. Not succeeding in the souk, he went
+to the Shereef Kebir, and requested him to give him a fowl for a sick
+person. The Shereef gave him what he asked, and the Tibboo brought it to
+me. This story since has been greatly embellished at the expense of the
+Tibboo, and affords infinite amusement to the Moorish and Arabic
+merchants of Zinder.
+
+I have just noticed some sable ladies, with their hair all twisted into
+three or four great points--vain attempts at curls. The back parts are
+all covered with a paste of indigo. The hair is well dressed, and free
+from any woolly appearance.
+
+Yesterday the Sheikh Lousou paid me a visit. I presented him with a loaf
+of sugar, and a cotton handkerchief. He received them with manifest
+pleasure, and promised to write a letter to the Queen, that, in the
+event of other English people or Europeans passing through the Tuarick
+country of Aheer, he would render them all the protection in his power.
+Lousou is esteemed by some persons as great a man as En-Noor in Zinder,
+but this estimation is exceedingly out of place. Lousou could give
+protection to European travellers and merchants, but not in an equal
+degree to En-Noor. As he is a younger man than En-Noor, however, it is
+desirable to secure his friendship, and, if possible, that of the
+Sarkee. Lousou wore the bag of camphor which I gave him, showing it to
+me with great satisfaction.
+
+According to the information of a slave of the Sarkee, Gumel is a large
+Bornouese province, the capital of which is Tumbi: the Sultan's name is
+Dan-Tanoma. Gumel is one day and a-half from Zinder, but the capital is
+three days by horse and five days by camel travelling. Gumel has twelve
+great officers. Bundi is a large province of Bornou, the capital of
+which is Galadima: the Sultan's name is Kagami. Galadima is three days
+from Zinder. Aoud, a large place, is one day from Galadima. Alamaigo,
+also a large village or town, is half a day from Galadima. Meria, is
+three days from Galadima, and three from Zinder.
+
+According to strict Muslims, it is a sin to write Jebel Mekka, "the
+mountain of Mekka." I have lately noticed several instances of
+superstition. A Moor of Fezzan, to whom I gave a small portion of
+camphor, showed me the paper and piece of cotton cloth in which he had
+wrapped it up, and swore that during the night the ginns, or evil
+spirits, had eaten it. Many other Moors asked me if it was possible to
+preserve camphor from the ginns? They said they knew a man who one
+evening locked up a piece of this substance in an iron box, and in the
+morning it was gone; the ginns had eaten it.
+
+I went to see the manufacture of the matting which is used for making
+houses. There were thirty slaves at work, all belonging to one man; over
+these were three masters (also slaves), to keep them at their task. They
+certainly did not hurry themselves, and very few people hurry themselves
+in this country. These slaves were all Hazna, or pagans. The Sarkee of
+Zinder, besides Tuaricks, has many pagan subjects. Some of the blacks, I
+was surprised to see, had breasts as full and plump as many women. In
+other respects these pagans do not differ from their Muslim brethren.
+The matting is woven thirty or forty feet long, and eight feet broad,
+and is used to enclose a cluster of huts. It is all doubly-woven. I gave
+each of them a small looking-glass, having nothing else to dispose of.
+
+According to a Moor here, the land revenues of Zinder are divided into
+three portions; one of which goes to the Sarkee, one to the Sheikh, and
+one to the Bashaw. This is the new arrangement. The Sarkee makes up his
+accounts, or fills up his exchequer by razzias.
+
+_27th._--The weather continues mild, but thick. The thermometer now
+stands at about 60° at sunrise. The people are mostly healthy. We do not
+hear of cases of fever, or any other periodical complaints. As soon as
+up, I received a visit from a number of old ladies, who came to see the
+Christian, and to bring him a bowl of milk. One of them had been the
+nurse of the Sultan of Zinder; so that I was bound to feel duly honoured
+by this attention.
+
+Everybody now says the Sarkee will return in the course of five days,
+and besides slaves, will bring store of cattle and horses, the spoils of
+the poor people. I certainly never heard of a more iniquitous
+expedition, for it is believed he has gone against the pacific and loyal
+subjects of the Sheikh--not tribes or villages under another power.
+
+I went to visit the renegade Jew Ibrahim. I had prescribed a regimen for
+him, to assist in the cure of his bad foot, but yet he had done nothing.
+These kind of people are most eager to get prescriptions, but very lax
+in following them. Probably in secret they expect a magical cure, and
+have no confidence in any specific less expeditious than the waving of a
+wand. I repeated everything again to him, without expecting compliance.
+It is, however, cheap to express condolence in this manner.
+
+The streets are almost deserted; only a few beggars and poor people show
+themselves about. There was a fire last night in the market-place, said
+to be the work of an incendiary. The thieves here set fire to the huts,
+and profit in the confusion by carrying off the goods and chattels of
+the alarmed; as, indeed, they do in London and other cities of Europe.
+The devices of roguery are marvellously monotonous.
+
+In the forenoon I received a visit from the Iman of the mosque of
+Zinder. I asked about the Hazna, or pagans, thinking to get a little
+information; but I only learnt what I knew before, that the Hazna make
+their offerings, which consist, of milk and ghaseb, under trees. These
+Hazna are mostly peasants--little farmers; and, like Cain, they offer to
+their deity the fruits of the earth. The Iman said their deity was
+Eblis, or the Devil; an accusation commonly bandied between rival
+creeds. He informed me, also, that there are a good number of Hazna in
+both Zinder and the other towns and villages of the province. He
+despaired of their ever becoming Muslims, but added, "The great men
+amongst them must become Muslims by order of the Sheikh, whilst the poor
+people are left to do as they please, and so furnish a constant supply
+for the home and foreign slave-mart. It is not the interest of the
+Sarkee or the foreign merchants that they should become Muslims."
+
+I have heard of the names of two other Tuarick tribes, viz. the
+Ezzaggeran, near Gouber, and the Daggera, near Minyo, belonging to the
+Tuarick country of Gurasu. These, apparently, are fractions of tribes.
+
+I register the following legend, which seems to imply that Zinder, like
+many of the towns of this part of Africa, is of comparatively modern
+origin.
+
+Twenty years ago there was a fine spring of water bubbling from under
+the largest granite rock of Zinder. It was this spring which first
+attracted a population to settle here. Suleiman, father of the present
+Sarkee, one day harangued the people, and told them, "This water is not
+necessary for us; the Sheikh of Bornou will hear of this prey, and come
+and take our country from us. Now let us fetch a fighi, who shall write
+a talisman; and we will put this talisman upon the mouth of the spring,
+and with it a large stone, and the water of the spring shall immediately
+dry." The people consented to this; the charm was written and thrown
+into the spring, and the stone was rolled on to its mouth; since which
+the spring has in reality ceased to flow.
+
+The population of Zinder is now supplied with water from three wells,
+about half an hour distant from the spring, now dry. Upon the stone over
+this dried spring are several marks, like the footprints of camels and
+horses. Other people add, "the marks of a man when he kneels down to
+pray."
+
+The Shereef Kebir says, that Lousou brought a piece of magnetic iron to
+him, which he sent to Haj Beghir in Kuka. Lousou reports that there is
+an abundance of magnetic iron in Aheer. Kohul is very cheap in the
+market of Zinder. In Kanou it can be had for ten reals (Fezzan) the
+cantar; and in Yakoba, whence it is brought, for three reals. There is a
+whole rock of kohul in Yakoba, the property of the Sultan. The Fellatahs
+rule Yakoba as well as Adamowa. They are still very powerful in all this
+part of Africa. Individual Fellatahs have as many as five thousand
+slaves, who work partly for their masters and partly for themselves.
+
+I visited this evening Sidi Bou Beker Weled Haj Mohammed Sudani, cousin
+of the Sheikh of Bornou. He was surrounded with all the objects of
+Bornou luxury,--carpets, guns, pistols, swords, umbrellas, &c. &c. He
+was busy looking over a book containing an explanation of dreams, with a
+vastly-knowing mâlem. They both made pretensions to great learning. In
+other respects, the cousin of the Sheikh was very affable. He said,
+Bornou is the only good country hereabouts. All the rest are full of
+fever or bandits. "There were two English," he observed, "came to us (in
+Bornou), and were very well until they went to Soudan, where they died."
+These persons were Oudney and Clapperton. I told him I must return by
+way of Wadaï, which he disapproved of. I added, that Abbas Pasha would
+write to Darfour and Wadaï, to give me protection. He then said, "Oh, if
+the Sheikh writes to Wadaï, you can go in safety."
+
+This cousin of the Sheikh is a great merchant, and comes backwards and
+forwards to Zinder from Kuka.
+
+_28th._--The nights are still rather cool, but the days not so. The
+weather continues heavy, with a south-east wind. I went to the cousin of
+the Sheikh to administer to him a dose of Epsom salts. I have often been
+surprised to see how greedily these people drink off this nauseous
+medicine, and smack their lips as if it was something excessively
+delicious.
+
+Afterwards I had a visit from a great sister of the Sarkee, a woman who
+is a Sheikha (female Sheikh), and receives the revenues of fifty
+villages for her own private use. She was quite well, but begged hard
+for medicine. At last I gave her some tea, which she drank off, after
+laughing a good deal.
+
+A small caravan has arrived from Ghadamez in three months, but brought
+no news, except that Aaron Silva is living, and not dead, as reported.
+These merchants make continual inquiries respecting the state of the
+country (i.e. of Soudan), and are answered, "_Afia, afia._" However, it
+is these same slave-dealing merchants who occasion the greater part of
+the wars and troubles in these countries, by their perpetual demand for
+slaves.
+
+I am told that many cantars of indigo can be purchased in Soudan (in
+Kanou), at a price which would bring a great profit in Tripoli; but the
+merchants refuse to engage in this commerce. I think I shall make a
+trial of it.
+
+The cousin of the Sheikh recommended me to dress in my English clothes
+on my arrival in Kuka. By doing this, he observed, "you will please the
+people, and get many presents." It was ever my intention to dress in
+European clothes in Bornou.
+
+The common mode in which a poor person salutes a great man, is by
+kneeling down and throwing dust upon the bare head. The degree of
+humility and respect is expressed by the quantity of dust thrown! The
+Sarkee, of course, gets a great deal of dust, and every personage under
+him his portion, according to his rank. The beggars throw the dust about
+in clouds. At first, it is painful to see this custom.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XV.
+
+Political News--Animals of Zinder--Sleepy City--District
+of Korgum--Razzias--Family of Sheikh Omer of
+Bornou--Brothers--Sons--Sisters--Daughters--Viziers--Kashallas--Power of
+the Sheikh--A Cheating Prince--Old Slave--Fetishism--Devil in a
+Tuarick's head--Kibabs--Fires--A Prophecy--Another Version of the
+Razzia--Correspondence between Korgum and Zinder.
+
+
+Some political news has arrived to-day by the caravan from Ghât.
+According to the gazette of the caravan there is peace now between the
+Porte and Musku (Russia), and Musku is to restore to the Porte the one
+hundred countries taken by her, as also to pay the expenses of the war.
+Hostilities have broken out between the Emperor of Morocco and the
+French; a Shereef has appeared to recommence the holy war, and Muley
+Abd-Errhaman supplies him with the means to fight the French. Thus the
+news is all fashioned to Muslim tastes. Also it is said, that in future
+the red colour in flags is always to be uppermost. This seems likewise a
+compliment to the Muslim power in Europe and Africa. It is very curious
+to see how dexterously the caravan-newsman has coined his wares.
+
+The shonshona of Gouber is very faint, and consists of nine very small
+cuts.
+
+Gouber is full of Tuaricks, Kilgris, and Iteesan. It is said the Sarkee
+will bring an immense number of Hazna, or pagans, with him, on his
+return from the razzia.
+
+_29th._--At sunrise, when the thermometer is at 57°, I feel the cold. I
+am told that, though Kuka is very hot, it is quite free from fever,--in
+fact, from all periodic epidemics. So we may expect to do well, if we
+escape the fever of Soudan.
+
+The household gods of Zinder are a large species of lizard, who make
+their dwelling-places in the walls and roofs of the huts. These are in
+great numbers. Cats are the principal nuisance and the thieves of the
+place--attacking and devouring fowls. Of rats and mice I have observed
+none. But few small birds show themselves. The small filthy vulture is
+everywhere, and a few eagles of a diminutive white species are seen
+amongst them. Some few dogs are kept, ill-looking and mongrel in their
+breed. The domestic cattle are horses, asses, oxen, sheep and goats, and
+a few camels.
+
+The life of the male population of Zinder seems to pass in dreamy
+indolence, varied continually by the excitement of a razzia. The women
+divide their time between the kitchen and the toilette. No amusement is
+sought, except from drum-beating and the attendant dance. Thus time
+lapses with these black citizens. As for the foreign merchants and
+traders, they, too, drowse away the period of their residence in this
+sleepy city. They sell their goods in a lump, on trust, to the Sarkee,
+and then compose themselves to slumber whilst he goes forth on a razzia,
+and brings them slaves in payment. The thick, heavy atmosphere--at any
+rate during this season--appears to forbid any other kind of life. It
+weighs upon the eyelids, and oppresses the soul. Existence passes away
+in a tropical dream, and death finds its prey, as Jupiter found Maia,
+"betwixt sleep and wake," in this poppied climate. Altogether--as far as
+I can see through my own winking eyes--Zinder is a most unlovely place;
+by no means desirable for a stranger to live in. I manage, however, now
+and then to grasp at, and hold, something like definite information. In
+looking over the itineraries of Captain Lyon, I find that the razzias
+have obliterated many towns and villages from the map. At any rate, the
+people now are ignorant of their names.
+
+Korgum, half-a-day's distance from Konchai, two days from Zinder, is,
+according to a report come in this afternoon, the place or theatre of
+the present razzia. The pretext is--for I now hear of a pretext--that
+they will not pay tribute to the Sheikh. Korgum consists of three
+villages and a town, upon and under some rocky hills, which are visible
+during three days' march. The district is the residence of a sultan. Ten
+years ago it belonged to Maradee, but since then has been wrested from
+it, though it has ever shown a doubtful allegiance. When the former
+chief fled to Maradee, he stopped to drink water at Korgum; but the
+sultan refused to grant him permission. The present Sarkee, on being
+restored to his government,--though he made war upon his
+brother--nevertheless determined to avenge this barbarous inhospitality.
+He went and attacked the Sultan of Korgum, captured several of his
+people, and cut off, it is pretended, eight hundred heads. Not satisfied
+with this slight vengeance, the chief of Zinder seems to have remained
+anxious to pick a quarrel. He next sent for wadâ; in other words, for
+tribute. The Sultan of Korgum forwarded some. The Sarkee despatched a
+message, that what he had received was "few." The Sultan replied, "Why
+should I send many?" A pertinent question, that seems to have closed the
+correspondence, but not brought the affair to a conclusion.
+
+The Sarkee of Zinder heard that the Sultan of Korgum had just gone out
+on a razzia, united with the people of Maradee, and has taken this
+opportunity to make a foray. It is probably with reference to some
+rumour of this expedition that Overweg writes to me.
+
+It is said here that the Sarkee never captures all the people, but
+leaves a few to breed for another razzia! All the inhabitants of Korgum
+are Hazna, a fact strongly insisted on as a salve for the consciences of
+my Muslim friends. The Sarkee is expected back on Friday.
+
+I received a visit from the two Shereefs that were at Mourzuk in our
+time. They left after us; had remained three months in Ghât, and, of
+course, detest the Tuaricks. I gave them coffee, and each a cotton
+handkerchief.
+
+_30th._--The following are given me as the names of the family of the
+Sheikh Omer, of Bornou:--
+
+
+_Brothers._
+
+Abd-Er-Rahman is the eldest brother after the Sheikh, and generalissimo
+of the army; the province of Minyo belongs to him.
+
+Yusuf, a very learned man, a great fighi.
+
+Othman, also a fighi. His mother is a native of Mandara.
+
+Bou Beker, also a fighi; to him belongs Limbaua and many estates.
+
+Mahmoud, also a fighi; to him belongs Kalulwa and many estates.
+
+Abdullah Manufi; to him belongs Gubobaua, consisting of 220 countries or
+villages.
+
+(Gubobaua is one day west of Kuka.)
+
+Bashir: fighi; resides with his brother Abd-Er-Rahman, and has a small
+village.
+
+Hamed Rufai; by the same mother as Abdullah Manufi.
+
+Mustapha; a great man, having much influence in the country: he has many
+estates.
+
+Ibrahim; fighi, and has estates.
+
+Anos.
+
+Khalil.
+
+Ahmed.
+
+Hamed Zaruf, a young brother.
+
+Hamed Bedawi, a young brother.
+
+Abd-el-Kader, a young brother.
+
+Abd-el-Majed, a young brother.
+
+Mohammed el-Kanemi; young.
+
+All these my informant knows. What a family! Verily we are in Africa!
+
+
+_Sons._
+
+Bou Beker, aged about fifteen years.
+
+Ibraim.
+
+Hashemi.
+
+Kasem.
+
+Tahir.
+
+Taib.
+
+Rufai.
+
+Abdallah.
+
+Mohammed Lamin (name of his grandfather).
+
+Kanami.
+
+The mother of the Sheikh is called Magera, a native of Begarmi.
+
+
+_Sisters of the Sheikh._
+
+Nafisa; to her belongs the country of Kumalewa (same mother as
+Abd-Er-Rahman).
+
+Maimuna; to her belongs the place of Wameri (same mother as above).
+
+Aisha; to her belongs Koba.
+
+Maream.
+
+Fatema.
+
+Mabruka.
+
+Hamsa.
+
+Alia; to her belongs Hamisah, a village.
+
+Halima.
+
+Zainubo; to her belongs Furferrai.
+
+Mussaud.
+
+Fadula.
+
+Rabia.
+
+Sinnana.
+
+Mubarka.
+
+Rihana.
+
+These are all he recollects among the number. A copious royal family!
+
+
+_Daughters of the Sheikh._
+
+Rukaia (married), about twenty years of age; to her belongs Balungu.
+
+Fatima, a young girl.
+
+No doubt there are others. It is curious to compare this knot of near
+relations with the scanty families among the Tuaricks. The fertility of
+the human race seems to be as that of the soil on which its several
+tribes are located. Deserts may produce conquerors, but the fat lands
+produce subjects.
+
+I may now add a further list, obtained at the same time as the above.
+
+The great vizier (or prime minister) is Haj Beshir; but there are other
+viziers of more or less power:--Shadeli; Ibrahim Wadai; Rufai (cousin of
+the Sheikh); Hamza, and Mala Ibrahim. These form the council of the
+Sheikh.
+
+The chief kady is Kady Mohammed, and another kady of influence is named
+Haj Mohammed Aba.
+
+The principal slaves (that is to say, the principal favourites in these
+despotic countries) are Kashalla Belal and Kashalla Ali. The word
+Kashalla corresponds to the title Bey. The brother of Abd-el-Galeel,
+lately killed, is living at Kuka, and is called Sheikh Ghait. There is
+also there a brother of the ancient sheikh killed in Fezzan, called
+Sheikh Omer, uncle of the above.
+
+According to my informant, the power of the Sheikh has immensely
+increased since the days of the first expedition. The Sheikh has now
+more than 100,000 cavalry, and a great quantity of muskets. Certainly I
+have ocular proof that Zinder, an important province, has been added to
+the territories of this most powerful prince. I may as well mention,
+that my authority is Omer Wardi. His father, Mohammed Wardi, went with
+Clapperton to Sakkatou.
+
+The Sheikh, according to this seemingly well-informed person, is
+paramount sovereign of Begarmi and Mandara,--these states paying each a
+tribute yearly of one thousand slaves, to which Mandara adds fifty
+eunuchs,--a most costly contribution. This seems to be the country where
+eunuchs are made in these parts.
+
+Lagun is also under the Sheikh, and has become a province of Bornou.
+
+In this country, it is said, there are pieces of cannon. Also, there is
+another country, Kussuri, four days south of Begarmi, now united to the
+Sheikh's territories; and besides, Maffatai, four days south-east from
+Kuka (a country of a sultan).
+
+Dikua, two days south from Kuka; a province with a powerful sultan, who
+has the power of life and death.
+
+Kulli, one day west of Dikua; Blad-es-Sultan.
+
+En-Gala, two days south of Kuka, country of a sultan; belonging to
+Yusuf, brother of the Sheikh.
+
+I went to see the renegade Jew; he was busy in a quarrel with a servant
+of Lousou, to whom he had given eight slaves to take to Ghât, to be sold
+on his account. Lousou had sold the slaves, and rendered no account to
+the renegade--a most unprincely proceeding, to say the least of it; if,
+indeed, it would not be more African to say princely proceeding: for
+there seems no vice, whether violent or mean, which is not exaggerated
+by the holders of power in these parts.
+
+The souk is almost deserted to-day, on account of the Sarkee being
+absent. I passed the slave-stalls, and saw another poor old woman for
+sale, upwards of fourscore years of age. The slave-merchants offered her
+for four thousand wadâs, about eight shillings. People purchase these
+poor old creatures that they may fetch wood and water, even until their
+strength fails them and they faint by the way.
+
+I made other inquiries about the Hazna of Zinder. It seems the Sarkee
+himself is still half pagan, for at the beginning of every year he
+proceeds with his officers to a tree, the ancient god of paganism, and
+there distributes two goffas of wadâ (about 100,000), three bullocks and
+sheep, and ghaseb, to the poor. These things are really offered to the
+deities of his ancestors, though the poor of the country get the benefit
+of them. There are four or five trees of this description, at which such
+annual offerings are made; but there is only one Tree of Death where
+malefactors are executed, the one mentioned in a former page.[17] The
+Muslim converts of Soudan find the Ramadhan excessively burdensome, as
+well as many other rites of Islamism, and for this reason the greater
+part of the population of Soudan, who profess Mohammedanism, are still
+pagans in heart. It is vain to expect a nation to pass from loose to
+ascetic practices without some moral motive, such as that which
+sustained the Muslims at their first brilliant start in the world.
+
+ [17] See pp. 211 and 218. Probably the second Tree of Death
+      described was in reality only a fetish tree.--ED.
+
+A Tuarick came this morning and said the devil was in his head, and that
+he wanted some medicine to drive him out. I gave him an emetic of
+tartarised antimony, which I hope served his purpose.
+
+N.B. The news of the Sarkee having "eaten up" four countries of Korgum
+is confirmed to-day.
+
+The preparation of kibabs is quite a science here. The kibab cook makes
+a conical hillock of dust and ashes, flattened on the top. The edge of
+this mound he plants with sticks, on which is skewered a number of
+little bits of meat: then a fire is kindled between this circular
+forest, and the sticks are twisted round from time to time, so that
+every part may be well roasted. To us these kibabs are cheap enough,
+five or six cowries a stick.
+
+The wall of Zinder has no gates, only openings. I went to the garden of
+the Shereef. The vegetation does not look very flourishing in this
+season. The Shereef has planted some horse-beans; "the only beans of the
+kind," says the gardener, "in all the territories of Bornou."
+
+_31st._--The weather is increasingly cool; therm. at sunrise, 50°. The
+atmosphere of Zinder never clears up. I was awakened this morning,
+before daylight, by the cries of "Fire!" A fire of huts was raging close
+upon us. This is the third accident of this kind which has taken place
+during the sixteen days we have been here. The people take them, as a
+matter of course, with Californian indifference, and it is likely that
+there are two or three fires every ten days.
+
+A merchant from Kanou (native of Tunis) called to see me. He says the
+English (Americans) now bring calicoes, powder, dollars, rum, wadâs,
+guns, and many other things, to Niffee, which afterwards are sent up to
+Kanou. The slave-trade, therefore, must thrive here; and we get the
+credit of it, because the ruffians by whom it is carried on speak our
+language.
+
+A great fighi called also to-day to explain any dreams which I might
+require the interpretation of, bringing with him his Tifsir El-Helam. I
+told him that last night I dreamt I saw "two persons fall to the ground
+upon (from?) the boughs of a tree." He searched his book and produced a
+passage, the pith of which was, that anything which I undertake will not
+be accomplished. Very agreeable information! I thought we had had bad
+news enough. The passage made to apply prophetically to me ran literally
+as follows:--
+
+"And whosoever sees (in dreams) a tree fall, or any thing fall from
+it,--then will not accomplish itself the thing which is between the man
+who thus dreams."[18]
+
+ [18] The unhappy event which soon after this interview occurred,
+      no doubt confirmed the belief of the natives in the powers
+      of this great fighi.--ED.
+
+I hired to-day Mohammed Ben Amud Bou Saad, at a salary of ten reals of
+Fezzan a month.
+
+I have heard another version of the plan and cause of the present razzia
+of the Sultan of Zinder. "Our own correspondents" cannot be more
+versatile in finding out rumours than the gossips of Zinder. It is now
+said that the Sultan of Korgum wrote to the Sarkee of Zinder, and asked
+him if he should make a razzia on or with Maradee.
+
+The Sarkee said, "Go." But as soon as the news came that the sultan was
+gone, this prince, in whom that other put his trust, immediately set out
+to make a razzia on the country deserted by its sultan.
+
+"_Compos!_" cried my Moorish informant; and certainly it was a clever
+negro trick. It is difficult to know whom to pity or condemn in this
+iniquitous affair. We may be certain, however, that the poor women and
+children, the principal sufferers by the razzias, are guiltless in these
+transactions; and we may, without fear, bestow our sympathies upon them.
+At the same time it is allowable to admire the profound secrecy with
+which the Sarkee planned his razzia. Not a soul in Zinder, besides
+himself, knew where he was going. The general opinion was to Daura,
+which affords scope for a thousand razzias.
+
+The correspondence which I have mentioned between the vassals of Korgum
+and Zinder illustrates the abominable system on which the Sheikh of
+Bornou permits his provinces to be governed. Really it is difficult to
+compare the condition of this extraordinary region to anything but a
+forest, through which lions and tigers range to devour the weaker and
+more timid beasts--to which they grant intervals of repose during the
+digestion of their meals.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVI.
+
+Sheikh of Bornou--Arab Women--News from the Razzia--Procession of
+newly-caught Slaves--Entrance of the Sarkee--Chained Slaves--My Servant
+at the Razzia--Audacity of Bornou Slaves--Korgum--Konchai--Product of
+the Razzia--Ghadamsee Merchants--Slave-trade--Incident at Korgum--State
+of Kanou--A Hue and Cry--Black Character--Vegetables at
+Zinder--Minstrel--Medi--Gardens--Ladies--Fanaticism--Americans at
+Niffee--Rich People--Tuaricks Sick--Morals--Dread of the
+Sarkee--Fashions.
+
+
+_Feb. 1st._--It is said that we shall leave this for Kuka on Monday
+next, whether the Sultan of Zinder returns from his razzia or not. It
+certainly is a shame that I should be kept here waiting the pleasure of
+a fellow gone to heat up for slaves to pay his debts.
+
+The merchants from Kanou represent the power of the Fellatahs as very
+strong, if not increasing. From Sakkatou to Kanou, and Kanou to Niffee,
+Yakoba, and Adamaua, everywhere along these lines of towns and populous
+districts, are found Fellatah chiefs or sultans. Bornou is, however, now
+much stronger than during the time of the first expedition. The Sheikh
+has two thousand muskets; so says the Shereef Kebir; whilst in the time
+of Denham he had only fifty. Certainly two thousand muskets is a
+progress beyond fifty. The Asbenouee Tuaricks carried away some
+half-dozen Arab women when they slaughtered the Walad Suleiman. One of
+these women has been seen, and the Sheikh and the Shereef Kebir are
+trying to get her back. The Sheikh has sent word that all the Arab women
+must be restored to their homes.
+
+The Shereef Kebir says the powder of this country is all bad, but that
+Haj Beshir and the Sheikh get English or American powder from Niffee.
+Leaden bullets are scarce; they use zinc bullets: but these will not go
+far, resisting the force of the powder; nor will they penetrate deep
+when they hit a person. Nitre is found at a place one hour from Zinder,
+called Kankandi.
+
+It is supposed that the Sarkee, not having found slaves enough in
+Korgum, has gone somewhere else. The Shereef Kebir would scarcely
+mention the subject of the razzia to me for shame. At length a Moor
+present said, "Fish eats up fish, so it is with the Sarkee." This
+brought forth a laugh, and seemed to be thought a sufficient salve for
+all their consciences.
+
+A cry was raised early this morning, "The Sarkee is coming!" Every one
+went out eagerly to learn the truth. It turned out that a string of
+captives, fruits of the razzia,[19] was coming in. There cannot be in
+the world--there cannot be in the whole world--a more appalling
+spectacle than this. My head swam as I gazed. A single horseman rode
+first, showing the way, and the wretched captives followed him as if
+they had been used to this condition all their lives. Here were naked
+little boys running alone, perhaps thinking themselves upon a holiday;
+near at hand dragged mothers with babes at their breasts; girls of
+various ages, some almost ripened into womanhood, others still infantine
+in form and appearance; old men bent two-double with age, their
+trembling chins verging towards the ground, their poor old heads covered
+with white wool; aged women tottering along, leaning upon long staffs,
+mere living skeletons;--such was the miscellaneous crowd that came
+first; and then followed the stout young men, ironed neck to neck! This
+was the first instalment of the black bullion of Central Africa; and as
+the wretched procession huddled through the gateways into the town the
+creditors of the Sarkee looked gloatingly on through their lazy eyes,
+and calculated on speedy payment.
+
+ [19] Mr. Richardson interchanges the words _razzia_ and _gazia_;
+      the latter, I imagine, is the correct word, but the former
+      is better known to European readers.--ED.
+
+In the afternoon I was informed that the Sarkee was really about to
+enter the town.
+
+Expecting to see other captives, and anxious to be an eye-witness to all
+these atrocities attendant on the razzia, I went to see him pass with
+his cavalry. After waiting ten minutes, there rode up single cavaliers,
+then lines of horsemen, all galloping towards the castle-gates to show
+the people their equestrian skill; then came a mass of cavalry, about
+fifty, with a drum beating, and in the midst of these was the sultan.
+There was nothing very striking in this cavalcade; a few cavaliers had
+on a curious sort of helmet, made of brass, with a kind of horn standing
+out from the crown; others wore a wadding of woollen stuff, a sort of
+thin mattrass, in imitation of a coat of mail. Its object is to turn the
+points of the poisoned arrows. The cavaliers thus dressed form the
+body-guard of the Sarkee. Amongst these troops were some Bornou
+horsemen, who rode with more skill than the Zinder people. The best
+cavaliers resembled as much as possible the Arab cavaliers of the north.
+There were no captives with these horsemen; the slaves had only come in
+to the number, it was said, of some two or three thousand during the
+day. Although I wished to see them, I was, nevertheless, spared a
+repetition of the misery and indignation which the sight in the morning
+produced in my mind. I have been told positively that the poor old
+creatures brought in with the other captives will not fetch a shilling
+a-head in the slave-market. It is, therefore, a refinement of cruelty
+not to let them die in their native homes,--to tear them away to a
+foreign soil, and subject them to the fatigues of the journey, and the
+insults of a rude populace, and ruder and crueller slave-dealers. Many
+die on the road during the two or three days' march.
+
+It is exceedingly painful to live in a place like Zinder, where almost
+every householder has a chained slave. The poor fellows (men and boys)
+cannot walk, from the manner in which the irons are put on, and when
+they move about are obliged to do so in little jumps. These slaves are
+ironed, that they may not run away. There are many villages and towns, a
+few days from Zinder, to which they can escape without difficulty, and
+where they are not pursued. It was exceedingly horrifying to hear the
+people of Zinder salute the troops of the razzia on their return with
+the beautiful Arabic word, _Alberka_, "blessing!" Thus is it that human
+beings sometimes ask God for a blessing on transactions which must ever
+be stamped with his curse. The Italian bandit also begs the Virgin to
+bless his endeavours. It is evident that nothing but the strong arm of
+power and conquest will ever root out the curse of slavery from Africa.
+
+The slave whom Haj Beshir sent from Kuka to Zinder, to accompany me to
+Kuka, went with the Sarkee, and took one of my servants with him. I did
+not know anything about it until they were gone. But this evening, on my
+return from seeing the Sarkee, I found a woman and child, a boy and a
+young man, tied together, lying not far from my hut, in the enclosure
+where we are residing. I was excessively indignant at this conduct of
+Haj Beshir's slave, although certainly done in ignorance. These captives
+were the fruits of the part he took in the expedition. I have not made
+up my mind whether I will go to Kuka with this fellow, for it is not the
+first time he has shown something like an insolent behaviour. As to my
+servant, I had already discharged him, but the Shereef Kebir persuaded
+me to let him go with the boat to Kuka, as he knew how to place it on
+the camels better than the other servants. I scolded him well for going
+with the razzia, because he himself was once in bondage, and had
+returned free under our protection. But I fear my words will have little
+effect; for in Zinder, at least, the great concern and occupation of the
+black population is, to go and steal their neighbours, and sell them
+into slavery. I repeat again, nothing but foreign conquest by a
+non-slaveholding power will extirpate slavery from the soil of Africa.
+
+I read Milton's "Comus" and other portions of his poetry, and find it a
+great relief in drawing my mind a little off African subjects. I am
+sorry I did not bring with me a copy of Shakespear. I have very few
+books with me of any kind, and fewer maps. I received a visit of fighis
+from the villages around, also from a sister and niece of the Sultan of
+Zinder, and gave them all a bit of sugar and sent them off.
+
+Around my house exists a swarm of fighis, who can copy charms and a few
+passages from the Koran. I procured some of the _bonâ fide_ specimens of
+their calligraphy. There are four different hands. These fighis are all
+blacks of pure blood. They write sideways.
+
+A courier arrived to-day from Kuka, bringing a despatch for the Governor
+of Zinder, to the effect that, in the event of his finding any people of
+Bornou committing misdemeanours of any sort, he, the Sultan of Zinder,
+was at liberty to treat them as he chose. I am told that the Bornou
+slaves, as well as the free people of that country, when they come to
+Zinder, have the audacity to seize on whomsoever comes in the way, and
+take them and sell them as slaves in the souk. This kidnapping is mostly
+done in the villages around Zinder, but even in the city itself it has
+been ventured; and the Sultan has hitherto been afraid to arrest these
+Bornouese miscreants. What a glimpse into the state of the empire of
+Bornou do such facts afford!
+
+_2d._--This morning the slave of Haj Beshir came to declare that the
+slaves which he brought here yesterday were not his booty, but belonged
+to another person, a volunteer. There is no getting at the truth in
+these countries. The theatre of the late razzia is westwards from Zinder
+about two days. Korgum is one day from Tesaoua. Konchai is a
+neighbouring country, about four hours from Korgum. The Sarkee attacked
+four villages of Korgum, but got few slaves. The people, though without
+their sultan, defended themselves well with their renowned arrows, and
+when they could hold out no longer they ascended the rocks and escaped.
+The wounds of arrows, though poisoned, are not always fatal, and often
+cured by the remedies known in these countries.
+
+The villages of Korgum are called Tangadala Agai. Not getting many
+slaves there, the Sarkee attacked two or three villages of Konchai. This
+province contains some three hundred villages. Ganua and Tanbanas were
+the places razzied. From the latter place six hundred slaves were
+obtained, nearly half of the whole captured. The total product of the
+razzia is about fifteen hundred; a thousand for the Sultan's share, and
+five hundred for the troops and volunteers. It is said this thousand
+will not suffice to pay the Sultan's debts, and it was on account of the
+fewness of slaves the Sarkee was obliged to bring with him the halt, the
+blind, the maimed, and the aged, stooping to the earth with age. Besides
+human beings, the Sarkee captured eight hundred and thirty bullocks, and
+flocks of sheep; seven hundred bullocks he gave to the troops and
+volunteers, and one hundred and thirty have been reserved for himself.
+Four men were killed, and one hundred horses, belonging to Zinder; but
+the enemy are said to have lost a good number. All the villages made
+resistance but one, where the poor people were busy cooking their
+suppers; when the Sarkee and his famished crew rushed upon them, seized
+them, and carried them into captivity. This, at any rate, is the report;
+but, according to others, the results of the expedition are much less
+important.
+
+All the country razzied is nominally subject to the Sheikh of Bornou, so
+that this Sarkee of Zinder has been pillaging the Bornou territories,
+and carrying off their inhabitants, who are subjects of the Sheikh, to
+raise money to pay his debts. A certain enmity exists, it is said,
+between Konchai and Zinder, which formerly was subject to the province
+of Konchai.
+
+According to one authority, the booty of the razzia is greatly reduced,
+even to more than half of what was reported. The share of the Sarkee is
+four hundred slaves, and one hundred and twenty slaves he gave to his
+troops. Seven places were attacked, but the people had news of the
+movements of the Sarkee, and were prepared to receive him: they shot
+their arrows through their stockades, thick and fast, upon the Sarkee
+and his people, and then retired to the rocks and behind the trees,
+which are abundant. Only one country was fairly razzied. Also but few
+beasts were taken, the people having secured all their cattle and flocks
+beforehand. The Sarkee got about one hundred bullocks. He took with him
+no less than two thousand horse, a collection from all the petty
+governments in the surrounding provinces, with their chiefs. All these
+forces did little more than beat the air. The capture of five hundred
+slaves will not pay the expenses of the expedition, but these people
+never sit down to count the cost. Their reckoning-days are few and far
+between.
+
+There is a report here that the Sultans of Maradee, Gouber, Korgum, and
+Tesaoua, have all gone together on a razzia to the territory of
+Sakkatou, and a few of the people of Zinder have gone with them; and
+this is the reason given for horses being now scarce in Zinder.
+
+Haj Beshir has sent a message from Kuka, that I am to quicken my steps
+thitherward. The kafila from Mourzuk has arrived, and many Arabs from
+the north.
+
+Of gubaga, called by the people of Zinder, ferri, four draâs are sold in
+Zinder for one hundred wadâs, about twopence. This native cotton cloth,
+when doubled, makes tents impervious to the summer rain.
+
+There are about fifty Ghadamsee merchants in Kanou and Boushi, capital
+of Yakoba, the principal of whom (here described as Maidukia) are:--
+
+Haj Mohammed Bel Kasem.
+Haj Tahir.
+Mairimi.
+Haj Mohammed Ben Habsa.
+Hemed Basidi.
+Kasem Ben Haiba.
+Haj Ali.
+Mohammed Makoren.
+Haj Hoda.
+Haj Abdullah.
+
+There are some merchants of consequence from Fezzan, viz. Basha Ben
+Haloum, Mohammed es-Salah, the agent of Gagliuffi, Sidi Ali, and Fighi
+Hamit, who always goes to Goujah (_blad_ of the gour-nuts). This country
+of the gour is distant three months' travelling, making small stages
+south-west by west. Morocco, Tuat, and the countries of the west, are
+scarcely represented by merchants in Kanou--there being one or two of
+them at most. Nor are there any from Egypt or the East.
+
+According to my informant, a small merchant, but well acquainted with
+these parts, not more than one hundred and fifty or two hundred slaves
+pass through or from Zinder annually to the north, and about five or six
+hundred go by the route of Tesaoua to the north, i.e. Tripoli, and a few
+to Souf. After all, the great slave-market is Central Africa itself.
+
+An affecting incident is told of the people of Korgum during the late
+razzia. The Sultan of Zinder besieged one town four days, and would not
+allow the people to drink water. They then sent word that "they did not
+know either God, or the Prophet Mahommed, or the Sheikh of Bornou, only
+him, Sarkee Ibrahim of Zinder, as their ruler and lord, and prayed him
+to give them water and peace." The Sarkee replied, "When my brother fled
+to you, you also would not allow him to drink, nor will I now permit
+you; therefore surrender into our hands." The people of the town held
+out these four days, and then during a night they all fled to the rocks
+and escaped.
+
+There are but few places to make razzias upon around Zinder, except on
+the Sheikh's provinces, unless the Sarkee will go to Maradee, and there
+he is now in friendship, or else is afraid to move in that direction. In
+the account of the booty, it is to be understood that all of it was not
+brought to Zinder, some having been distributed amongst the troops and
+volunteers of the rest of the province. I am told that the greater part
+of the slaves will be sent to Kanou for sale. It has already been
+observed, that only a few slaves go to the north in comparison with the
+numbers captured. The bulk of the slaves of the razzias are employed as
+serfs on the soil, or servants in the town. In Kanou, a rich man has
+three or four thousand slaves; these are permitted to work on their own
+account, and they pay him as their lord and master a certain number of
+cowries every month: some bring one hundred, some three hundred or six
+hundred, or as low as fifty cowries a-month. On the accumulation of
+these various monthly payments of the poor slaves the great man
+subsists, and is rich and powerful in the country. This system prevails
+in all the Fellatah districts.
+
+At dusk, there was a hue and cry near our house. I ran out to see what
+it was: the noise and stir was nothing less than an attempt of a slave
+to escape. The poor fellow was surrounded by a mass of men and boys, all
+anxious to seize him and deliver him to his master, to obtain the
+reward.
+
+My sympathies certainly begin to cool when I see the conduct of these
+blacks to one another. The blacks are, in truth, the real active
+men-stealers, though incited thereto frequently by the slave-merchants
+of the north and south. It must be confessed, that if there were no
+white men from the north or south to purchase the supply of slaves
+required out of Africa, slavery would still flourish, though it might be
+often in a mitigated form; and this brings me to the reiteration of my
+opinion, that only foreign conquest by a power like Great Britain or
+France can really extirpate slavery from Africa.
+
+_3d._--The sky never gets clear here till late at night. I read several
+pieces of Milton's poetry. I went to the gardens to see the wells:
+people fetch water from the wells of the gardens, where the supply is
+sufficiently abundant. I observed in the gardens the henna plant, the
+cotton plant, the indigo plant, and the tobacco plant. All these appear
+to be commonly cultivated in the gardens of Zinder. There are scarcely
+any other vegetables but onions, and beans, and tomatas; but the people
+cultivate a variety of small herbs, for making the sauce of their
+bazeens and other flour-puddings. The castor-oil tree is found in the
+town and in the hedges of the gardens in abundance.
+
+A Tuarick woman was brought here to-day for me to cure. She had been in
+an ailing, wasting state, for the last four years; the husband said that
+the devil had touched his wife, and reduced her to this state. Another
+woman was brought with an immense wen upon her abdomen. I have given
+away nearly all my Epsom salts, and now supply emetics. It is necessary
+to purge these people immediately, in a few hours, or they think you do
+nothing for them, or will not or cannot do them any good. Many Tuaricks
+come from the open country. We have also frequent cases of ophthalmia,
+mostly from the villages around.
+
+This evening I was charmed by the vocal sounds of a strolling minstrel,
+attended by two drummers with small drums, called _kuru_, and a chorus
+of singing-girls collected from the neighbourhood. The chorus-singers
+sang like charity-school girls at church. Altogether the singing was
+more pleasing than the monotonous, plaintive sounds of the Arabs.
+
+It seems difficult to get off. Everybody is making preparations for our
+journey, from the Sultan to the lowest slave sent from Kuka to assist in
+the transport of the boat and our baggage, and yet nothing is done!
+
+I parted with my new acquaintance, Medi, to-day, a soldier and slave of
+the Sarkee. He has been occasionally my cicerone in Zinder. He had been
+captured from a child, and is now past middle age, and knows little of
+the loss of home. He was a friendly chap, and gave me all the
+information he could make me understand in Soudanee and Bornouee.
+
+The evening was warm; a most pestilential sort of mist usually covers
+the ground at dark. After an hour or so it clears off--a few meteors now
+and then.
+
+_4th, Dies non._--It is said we shall probably leave this to-morrow.
+Read Milton all day. Weather sultry hot; did not go out. Thermometer in
+the evening, at dark, 80°.
+
+_5th._--I had a visit from a number of Tuarick ladies from the villages
+around, all of whom put their hands to their stomachs, and pretended
+they were mighty ill. I gave them all round a cup of tea. The renegade
+Jew came this morning, and gave me a list of all the things sold in the
+market of Kanou.
+
+I went in the afternoon to see the Kaïd of Haj Beshir of Kuka, called
+Abd-el-kerim. He had a female slave afflicted with the leprosy, and sent
+for me to come and see her. He gave me some gour-nuts, and I found him a
+friendly man. Denham represents the Bornou people of his time as very
+fanatical. At present I have seen nothing of this. But we are in a
+province where there are many Hazna, or pagans; and the people of Zinder
+are but lukewarm Muslims. I have yet had no instance of fanaticism,
+either from people of Kuka or from residents here.
+
+I was amused by the relation of Haj Mohammed Ben Welid respecting his
+intercourse with an American vessel at Niffee.[20] He first describes
+the vessel as very large; the sides being ascended by a ladder. Then
+these Americans (English they were called) had a black interpreter, who
+spoke Arabic. Through this black fellow they inquired of the man of
+Ghadamez from whence he came. He replied, "Ghadamez,"--this they did not
+know; then "Trablous,"--this they did not know; then "Tunis,"--nor was
+this place known; and, finally, "Malta." "Ah!" they cried, "we have
+heard of this place." They then asked him what he traded in, and gave
+him some tobacco and rum. They were full of goods of every
+description,--calicoes, powder, shot, rum, tobacco, dollars, and _wadâ
+yaser_ (a great quantity of cowries), &c.
+
+ [20] See the Appendix. This Haj appears to have given some
+      useful information to Mr. Richardson.--ED.
+
+My room has been an hospital all this day, full of the sick, with
+various disorders. They come mostly from the villages around Zinder, and
+amongst them are a great number of Tuaricks, these people being more
+exposed to the weather, or more delicate, or more fanciful in their
+complaints. These poor devils all bring something--a little cheese, or a
+little milk; and I have received more of these trifling presents from
+them during the twenty days that I have been in Zinder, than in all the
+five or six months which I spent in their country. The reason may be,
+that in Asben they have nothing (or next to nothing), whilst here reigns
+abundance. Our servants say now that the Tuaricks always bring
+something, and the townspeople of Zinder nothing. Some of the Tuaricks
+are not sick; they come only to see the Christian, and stop, and look,
+and stare, and watch the minutest action of the said Christian,--more
+especially the women, who would never leave my room if I were not to
+drive them away.
+
+_6th._--I am told by a well-informed person, that morals are much
+relaxed here. To-day a black man came from the country to beg for his
+wife, who had been taken away from him and given to a Moor, who was
+about to send her to the coast for sale. She is to be restored to the
+man in exchange for two young girls, whom he has fetched from the
+country (probably kidnapped). The woman, however, has been given over,
+in the first place, to Shroma, the commander-in-chief; and after she has
+passed two or three days with him, she will be allowed to return to her
+husband. This woman was first kidnapped by the Sultan, and belonged to
+the Sheikh's dominions, to a village near Zinder, and was taken in a
+razzia. The Sultan gave or sold her to the Moor. This is a sample of the
+transactions daily going on there. I am also assured that the three
+hundred wives of the Sarkee himself are at almost everybody's disposal,
+two or three gour-nuts being the utmost which these ladies ask. But this
+is not all; for these women, wives of the Sultan, have intrigues with
+the slaves of the Sultan, with the brothers of the Sultan, and even with
+the sons of the Sultan. Whatever may be said of the Tuaricks and their
+freebooting, they do not practise such revolting immoralities as these.
+
+The Sarkee of Zinder is feared both by Fellatahs and Tuaricks,
+especially on account of the barbarous nature of his executions, which I
+have described. It may be supposed that a better system, both of
+government and morality, is practised in Kuka, and the more connected
+Bornou provinces.
+
+A man came to me to beg or buy some large beads for his wife; he said
+his wife was very anxious for them, to wear round her loins. Various are
+the caprices of fashion. Europeans show their finery, but here children
+and women wear beads round their loins under their clothes.
+
+It is now said we shall leave Zinder positively on Saturday next.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVII.
+
+News from Tesaoua--Razzia on Sakkatou--Laziness in Zinder--The
+Hajah--Herds of Cattle--More Tuarick Patients--Gardens--My
+Luggage--Adieu to the Sarkee--Present from his Highness--Start from
+Zinder--Country--Birds--Overtake the Kashalla--Slaves for
+Kanou--Continue the Journey--People of Deddegi--Their Timidity--Horse
+Exercise--Cotton--Strange Birds--Occupation of Men and Women--State of
+African Society--Islamism and Paganism--Character of the Kashalla--A
+Dogberry--Guddemuni--Cultivation--Beggars--Dancing Maidens.
+
+
+A Shereef has come here to-day from Tesaoua, and reports that Overweg
+left that place for Maradee, about eight days since, with a Tuarick of
+En-Noor. The city of Maradee is but an hour from Gonder, and is about
+twice the size of Zinder. The whole occupation of these two cities is
+that of razzia, and their subsistence and riches are all derived from
+this source. These places also swarm with Tuaricks, Kilgris, Iteesan,
+and Kailouees, who join the blacks of Maradee and Gouber in their
+slave-hunting expeditions. A grand razzia is being perpetrated by the
+united forces of the Sultans of Maradee, Gouber, and Korgum, with the
+assistance of a thousand Tuarick horse, on the territories of the Sultan
+of Sakkatou. The cavalry of the marauders consists of some five
+thousand, and there are more than this number on foot. My informant says
+they will go near Kashna, perhaps to its very gates. So it seems the
+Sultan of Sakkatou, with all his power and his great cities, is unable
+to check, or apparently even to avenge, the depredations committed upon
+his most important provinces. It is said that the product of this razzia
+will be some of the finest slaves in this part of Africa, many of them
+almost white. We are to leave here to-morrow. Inshallah! It is too bad
+to be kept so long here, when Haj Beshir has sent orders for us to come
+immediately.
+
+_7th._--The morning was cool; thermometer at sunrise, 58°. I slept
+little, being angry at being kept here so long. I read Milton to divert
+my mind awhile from African subjects.
+
+There seems to be little industry in Zinder. The education of the
+greater part of the males is to fit them for razzias, and this must be
+considered as the principal cause of the unfeeling manner with which the
+blacks hereabouts look upon, their captive brethren. These captives are
+their means of livelihood; they live on the products of the razzias,
+and, of course, the superior intellects with which they may come in
+contact countenance all their proceedings; for the foreign merchants are
+equally interested with them in their inhuman expeditions. Africa is
+bled from all pores by her own children, seconded by the cupidity of
+strangers.
+
+All the Moors and Arabs whom I conversed with extol the power of the
+Sheikh of Bornou, and represent him as the greatest sheikh in Central
+Africa. Nevertheless, the Fellatahs are everywhere, far and wide, from
+Sakkatou to Adamaua, a dominant people, though few in number compared
+with the population of the subjected kingdoms.
+
+One of the most remarkable women, perhaps the only remarkable woman in
+Zinder at the present moment, is a certain Hajah (i.e. a woman who has
+made the pilgrimage of Mekka). She is a native of Fezzan, and is now
+employed in the household of the Sheikh of Bornou. She is excessively
+free and easy with all men folks; and although such a saint, her
+chastity, I am told, does not rate high. She returns to Kuka with us--no
+great gain to our caravan.
+
+Near our enclosure is a long space full of bullocks and cows--some four
+hundred and fifty. These are distributed amongst the whole population by
+ones, twos, and threes. I have seen no herd but this, and if this is
+really the only one, it speaks little for the wealth of the people of
+Zinder. In fact, with regard to horses it is much the same,--the Shereef
+can hardly find me a horse to ride on in the whole town.
+
+Apparently, Zinder is a wretchedly poor place. All are needy, from the
+Sarkee downwards, and when they get any property it all comes from the
+razzias. The system of living on rapine and man-stealing seems to bring
+its own punishment along with it.
+
+A _posse_ of Tuarick patients assailed me very early this morning. The
+Tuaricks, who have more intellect than the blacks, let loose their
+imagination to fancy they have all sorts of complaints. Thus I have more
+patients from them than from the people of Zinder, and am quite
+undeceived as to my having done with this tribe when I entered the gates
+of this town. There is, however, this difference now, that they treat me
+with the greatest respect, and are very quiet, bringing presents instead
+of demanding presents.
+
+The Tuaricks of Gurasu, I hear, have a bad name, and are troublesome to
+the Sheikh.
+
+I went to the gardens this morning and yesterday morning--it is an
+immense relief from the enclosure of huts in town--but have not observed
+anything new. I am told that the suburbs of Kanou are full of palms.
+Zinder, if the people were industrious, could have its forests of palms,
+bearing luscious fruit twice a-year. But, alas! the excitement of the
+razzia destroys the taste for all rational industry. What bandit could
+ever settle down into a tiller of the ground?
+
+_8th._--The people came this morning, in a great hurry, to take off the
+luggage, and afterwards pretended that I should go to-morrow, whilst the
+baggage must be forwarded to-day. This arrangement I positively refused
+to comply with, being determined to stop no longer.
+
+I went to take leave of the Sarkee. His highness had nothing to say, and
+we as little to him. We just shook hands, and that was all. He is not
+very well pleased with his late man-hunt. He still owes twenty thousand
+dollars, which it will require a dozen such speculations to pay off. The
+castle outside was besieged with soldiers, all lounging and listening to
+two or three drummers. I am disgusted to see so many idle people. The
+only novelty was four or five singing-women, who sung choruses inside
+the walls to a drummer. All the soldiers in undress, or not going on
+razzia, are bare-headed, and also nearly all the inhabitants of the
+town. A few persons, mostly women, wear a piece of blue cotton cloth
+over their heads, tied tight, so as to have the appearance of a cap. The
+common sort of women go with their breasts bare; others, of higher rank,
+drag up their skirts to cover their breasts; and a few add a piece of
+cotton cloth, which they throw over their shoulders like a shawl.
+
+The Sarkee has presented Yusuf with a horse, blind with one eye, and not
+much bigger than a jackass, in return for the present Yusuf made to him.
+In fact, this potentate is now as poor as a rat, and has nothing to give
+away. When he has anything, he soon parts with it, being generous to
+prodigality. The title Sarkee is used for men of inferior rank, and is
+something like Bey.
+
+I waited till three o'clock, P.M., for my servants, and Saïd of Haj
+Beshir, to come and bring the oxen for the rest of the baggage--the boat
+and the heavy baggage left in the morning; and seeing no signs of their
+preparation, I determined to be no longer duped by them, and told the
+servant of Haj Beshir that I would start to-day, be the consequence what
+it might. So off I went to the Shereef, and told him I must go at once,
+to follow the Kashalla, who had taken away the box in which was the
+chronometer, and I must go to wind it up early in the morning. He
+immediately informed the Sarkee, and asked for a soldier. A soldier was
+forthwith brought, and a message from the Sarkee, that the horse which
+had been sent for me to ride upon was a present from his highness to me.
+This is the first present of the kind I have received in Africa; and
+after giving away about five hundred pounds sterling of Government money
+I have got in return, at last, a horse worth one pound fifteen shillings
+and fourpence, the current value of this country! The Sarkee of Zinder
+is miserably poor, but he was afraid to let me go to Kuka, to his
+master, without giving me a present.
+
+I started from Zinder, riding my "gift horse," about an hour before
+sunset, and arrived at Dairmummegai, a very large village, where the
+Kashalla had pitched tent, after three hours' ride. Our course was due
+east, through a scattered forest of dwarf-trees, in which were
+fluttering about a number of strange-looking birds, that reminded me I
+was in a foreign land. One solitary bird excited my pity; its form was
+something like that of a small crane, but, verily, it was most
+disproportionally thin, with very long neck and shanky legs. It was
+wandering about as if it had lost itself in the world; and yet a bird
+losing itself in the world is a strange notion! We met a couple of
+huntsmen, on the shoulders of one of whom was coiled a fine bleeding
+gazelle. These huntsmen had only bows and arrows, and they had managed
+to get a gazelle, whilst we, with all our matchlocks and muskets, had
+never been able to shoot one of these animals during our eight or nine
+months of passage through the desert. The Kashalla was exceedingly glad
+at my arrival, and got ready a bowl of new milk. He is a man of some
+fifty or sixty years of age, black, and with Bornou features, speaking a
+little Arabic. The greater part of the Bornou people know a few words of
+this language. The Sheikh sent him to bring the boat and our baggage. He
+is a friendly, quiet man, whilst the man sent by Haj Beshir, Saïd, is an
+impudent slave, and only thinking of what he can get by his journey.
+
+I saw, as I passed through the streets of Zinder this morning, a number
+of slaves chained together, going to the market of Kanou; so that this
+place is the great central dépôt of this merchandise. These were some of
+the fruits of the Sarkee's last razzia.
+
+_9th._--The morning was cool, and we started early, and made six hours
+and a-quarter in a general south-east direction, through a continuation
+of scattered forests, with open spaces, the wood being broken in upon
+here and there by a scanty ghaseb cultivation. Amongst the trees, some
+rose with giant arms and all the characters of tropical vegetation. The
+country was undulating, with ranges of low hills. Blocks of granite were
+scattered on the surface of the ground; in the deeper valleys lay
+stagnant water of the last rains, fast drying up; and here were
+water-fowls, waders, and some large, strange, black-and-white geese,
+with necks of enormous length.
+
+After three hours and a-quarter we came to the considerable village of
+Deddegi, where, on our appearance, all the inhabitants fetching water or
+tending cattle ran away. This I may remark, as the first time that the
+people ran away at our appearance amongst them. Hitherto we have always
+had the population pressing upon us for curiosity, or to attack and
+plunder us. Things change. But the flight of the people of Deddegi is
+easily explained. We were soon recognised as a Bornou caravan, and the
+Bornouese in coming to Zinder,--the Sheikh's people especially,--have
+been in the habit of plundering these villages, or carrying off the
+people and their cattle, the former into slavery. Recently the Sarkee
+has complained of this, and the Sheikh, to do him justice, has ordered
+the Sarkee to seize any Bornouese committing these misdemeanours, and
+execute what justice he pleases upon them. The Sarkee, now, will not be
+slack to obey his master's commands. Still it is not surprising the
+people ran away from a Bornou caravan.
+
+We encamped at the group of villages called Dairmu. My "gift horse" had
+given me most excruciating pain in riding, and I was obliged to dismount
+for half an hour. The saddles are very bad, and cut you raw before you
+are accustomed to them. But I must submit to this fatigue, for now I
+must ride horses and put away the camel, which is too slow for
+travelling in Soudan, where water and herbage are found for the horses
+every two or three hours.
+
+After I was somewhat recovered, I went to see the village, and found all
+the people working upon cotton; some cleaning it, some winding it into
+balls, and others weaving the gubaga, or narrow strips of cotton cloth,
+with which the greater number of the population are clothed. A small
+portion of the cotton-twist is dyed with indigo, and with this and the
+undyed a species of check-cotton cloth is woven; but all very rude. The
+Sheikh of the place supplied the caravan with bazeen. For myself I
+purchased a couple of fowls, which cost just twopence farthing in
+English money: they were, however, small; and I may remark that all
+fowls are small in this country, and most of the domestic animals, like
+horses, sheep, dogs, cats, &c. are diminutive when compared to those of
+Europe. The bullocks, however, are of a good size, with branching horns.
+The sheep have no wool, or rather, the wool takes the appearance and
+substance of hair, like that of a dog; and their tails, too, are like
+those of dogs; but, indeed, the Soudan sheep are well known. No fruit or
+vegetables are found in these villages: not even onions, common in most
+places. The birds have all a strange appearance. I am no naturalist, and
+wonder when I should examine. That filthy species of vulture, the
+scavenger of Zinder, is seen in twos and threes. The woods abound in
+turtle-doves. I gave the Kashalla a ring for himself and his female
+slave, or wife, as it may be. Very few men of this sort have wives: all
+their women are slaves. He was greatly pleased with the present.
+
+_10th._--My thermometer remains behind with the baggage at Zinder,
+expected to-day. Here we wait for it, and the rest of the caravan. I
+oiled myself well last night with olive oil, and feel much better this
+morning. During a walk through the villages, I observed that two-thirds
+of the male population, as in Zinder, are quite idle, lounging about, or
+stretched at their full length upon the dust of the ground. A third find
+something to do, either in working on cotton, or making matting, or in
+the gardens, where tobacco, pepper, cotton, and indigo are grown. These
+are the staple products of the gardens in this part of Africa. The women
+have always something to occupy their time, suckling their children,
+fetching water, cooking, or else picking cotton. All the males, I
+imagine, at some seasons of the year, find occupation, when the ghaseb
+is sown and when reaped. But, nevertheless, what powerfully solicits the
+observation of the European in looking into these villages is the
+downright livelong idleness of the male population.
+
+We begin, at length, to regard this region merely as the nursery-ground
+of slavery--of the system which takes away the idlers to perform their
+share of the curse pronounced on Adam, that in the sweat of his brow he
+should eat and earn his bread. Again it is to be observed, that the
+wants of these people are very few: they live on ghaseb and milk, eating
+little meat; these come to them almost without labour. The ground is
+tilled by burning the stubble of the previous year, or by burning the
+trees on new land. The seed is thrown in when the rain begins, and
+nothing more is done till the grain is ripe for the sickle, when it is
+gathered in. It is collected under small sheds made of matting, and
+eaten as it is wanted. The cattle are mostly driven to graze and to
+water, and this is all the attention they require. The cotton furnishes
+a scanty clothing, deemed sufficient; all the children go naked till
+they are ten years old, or only wear a piece of cotton, leather, or a
+skin round their loins. The men of some consequence buy a tobe brought
+from Kanou or Niffee; the women purchase a few beads and other ornaments
+with their fowls or ghaseb. The bowls or household utensils are made
+from gourds, in shape like a cucumber, but straight, with a knob at the
+end; they are slit in two, and thus form two spoons, the concave head of
+the gourd serving as the bowl, the other part as the handle. These
+calabashes, some of which are pretty, are hung up within the huts as
+ornaments. On peeping into these huts, nothing is seen but these said
+calabashes, except the strings or nets by which they are suspended on
+the sides of the huts. As you enter there is always a partition-wall on
+your right hand, and a round entrance at the further end of the hut to
+this part, partitioned off. This space, so divided off, is the
+sleeping-place, where there is a raised bench of mud, or a bedstead made
+of cane or wickers. A few utensils for culture, an axe and a hoe, may be
+mentioned, all made by native blacksmiths, of the rudest description.
+Iron is found in the native rocks of Soudan, and is not imported. The
+greatest skill of the African blacksmith is, alas! shown in forging the
+manacles for slaves. I must mention that many of the huts have walls of
+clay, and roofs only of thatch or matting. The grain-stacks are also
+raised a foot or two from the ground, on stakes, to prevent the ghaseb
+getting wet during the rainy season. Thus it is that these children of
+Africa live a life of simplicity little above pure savages, and I may
+add, a life of comparative idleness, and perhaps happiness, in their
+point of view.
+
+Yesterday our Kashalla made a move to say his prayers. He was surrounded
+by the people who came with him from Zinder and Bornou, and the
+inhabitants of Dairmu. He prayed, but prayed alone, none following his
+example! It is quite clear that all the black population hereabouts are
+only nominal Muslims, and remain in heart pure Hazna, or pagans. Those
+who do pray, pray very little indeed; there is no sensual charin or
+allurement in Mahommedanism for the African mind, whilst its fasts and
+commands of abstinence from strong drinks deter thousands from embracing
+the religion of the false Prophet. It cannot allure the African by
+polygamy, because the African has as many women as he pleases by the
+permission of his native superstition. Islamism, therefore, takes no
+hold of the native African mind. There are a few Tuaricks scattered
+amongst all this population, but living generally out of the villages by
+themselves; they are all subjects of the Sheikh, and have escaped the
+desert to lead an easier life in Soudan. It is strange that some of the
+Tuarick women are enormously corpulent, whilst a corpulent woman is not
+found amongst the blacks. I must add, that the morality of these black
+villages seems of a much higher and purer kind than that of the Tuarick
+villages of Asben. Here they do not look upon woman, as in Asben, simply
+in the light of an instrument of pleasure: but I fear this will soon
+change. What morality, indeed, can there be without higher and more
+binding motives?
+
+I was much pleased with the condescension of the Kashalla in furnishing
+me with information on routes, and gave him a head of sugar. He is a man
+of great generosity, and immediately divided it amongst his people. He
+says he never leaves the Sheikh's presence, and it was solely on account
+of me that the Sheikh sent him to fetch me from Zinder. If this be true,
+their sovereign has paid a high compliment to the Mission.
+
+The only character whom I could discover in Dairmu was the constable, or
+general police-officer. This was an ill-looking fellow, with one eye
+damaged,--a most unamiable Dogberry. He approached the Kashalla twice,
+keeping, however, at a timid distance, kneeling down and throwing the
+dust in handfulls over his head, in the most abject manner. Yet this man
+was the dread of the whole neighbourhood! The exercise of all
+disagreeable employments seems to debase man. Before his superiors he
+crouches and grovels in dust; with the people he commands, he is a very
+tyrant!
+
+_10th._--I was joined yesterday evening by the rest of the caravan,
+Saïd, and Moknee, and my new interpreter. Saïd brings goods for Haj
+Beshir. We started early, and made seven hours; our route varying
+between east and south-east, through a fine wavy country, rising at
+times into high hills, with few trees in comparison to what we have
+hitherto had, and a good deal of cultivation, all ghaseb. The sandy soil
+is well adapted for this kind of grain. A ridge of quartz rocks strikes
+up through the sand. The rocky hills are mostly granite. The atmosphere
+was cooled by an easterly wind. We pitched tent, or rather halted, at a
+cluster of villages of considerable size, the principal of which is
+Guddemuni. They are all placed on hills. In the deep valley near is a
+large lake, towards the east, about two hours long and half-an-hour
+wide. In the dry season the people cultivate, by irrigation from the
+lake, a quantity of wheat, which they export to Kanou. Besides wheat,
+they raise ghaseb on the hill tops; and in the gardens, cotton, indigo,
+tobacco, onions, pepper, dates (bearing twice a-year), henna, potatoes
+(_dankali_), the palm (_geginya_),--bearing a large fruit (_gonda_),
+like the mealy melon,--gourds, rogo, and gwaza; which last are two
+species of potatoes. Some large trees are planted like the kuka, the
+fruit of which is used for sauce.
+
+To-day the Kashalla rode up to several men wandering in the fields,
+hunting, and attempted to impose some labour on them. This was a signal
+for a general stoppage of all foot-passengers, who were met by his
+people, for one purpose or another, either to take from them any little
+articles, or to vex them. They did not, however, stop two people we met,
+but gave them full leave to pass. Who were these? One was a man who, by
+disease, had become all over of a light flesh-colour, his black skin
+peeling off. It was a perfect phenomenon--a man with strong negro
+features, entirely white, or of a light dull-red colour. The other man
+was a miserable, filthy, blind fellow, whom the first invalid was
+leading. They were, in fact, a couple of mendicants going to Zinder on
+speculation, having come from Kuka, begging through all the towns and
+villages. The trade of begging is coextensive with man, civilised or
+uncivilised, in towns or country. Africa has a good number of this
+industrious class of people.
+
+The language of this cluster of villages is Haussa, like that of Zinder,
+the "Haussa of the North," as it is called: it varies a little from the
+pure Haussa of Kashna and Kanou. The people of this place were all
+excessively civil. I walked out in the evening, and saw about thirty of
+the maidens of Guddemuni (one of the villages) encircling a female
+dancer, who kept pacing to the sound of a rude guitar. At the sight of
+me they all made off. The poor blacks in these villages always expect
+that the white man comes to bring them into slavery. Afterwards I went
+to salute the Sultan. We saw him during two minutes; he kept rubbing his
+hands, as if he were cold. He was a sinister-looking man, dressed in a
+white tobe; he had not the least suspicion of what a Christian might be.
+I made the acquaintance of the taste of the doom-palm, in a dish of
+pastry seasoned by it. The taste is something like rhubarb, only a
+little sharper.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVIII.
+
+A Village plundered--Shaidega--Animals--Our Biscuit--Villages _en
+route_--Minyo--Respect for Learning--Monotony of the Country--A
+Wedding--Palsy--Slave-agents--Kal, Kal--Birni Gamatak--Tuaricks on the
+Plain--Palms--Sight the Town of Gurai--Bare Country--Bearings of various
+Places--Province of Minyo--Visit the Sultan--Audience-room--Fine
+Costume--A Scene of Barbaric Splendour--Trade--Estimate of Wealth--How
+to amuse a Prince--Small Present--The Oars carried by Men--Town of
+Gurai--Fortifications.
+
+
+_Feb. 11th._--I rose early, and started as usual, as quick as possible.
+We made seven hours and a-half, and halted at a small village called
+Bogussa. After the fifth hour we came to the hamlet of Dugurka, which
+the Kashalla delivered up to plunder, because the people refused to give
+him some water. This is the story of my servants, which I do not
+believe. But certain it is, that, after the Kashalla passed the hamlet,
+his people, who loitered behind, commenced a general pillage of the poor
+little village. The inhabitants had all fled at our approach, save one
+old man. All the hut-doors were violently torn away and the insides
+ransacked. The spoils were leben, bowls or calabashes, bows and arrows,
+axes, and some other trifles. Of live-stock, all the fowls were seized
+and slaughtered on the spot; also a lamb. My interpreter tells me that
+all the slaves of the Government of Bornou are marauders, and that it
+was for this reason the Sarkee of Zinder complained to the Sheikh of the
+government caravans seizing the people and sacking their villages. In
+all my life I never saw such an instance of the triumph of might over
+right. My servants, most of them Bornouese, joined their brethren with
+great eagerness. To remonstrate with them is useless. I have had several
+quarrels of remonstrance already since I have been in the Sheikh's
+territory, about similar acts of brigandage; and if I go on, I shall
+quarrel with all the world of Africa, every hour of the day. I
+reproached my servants ironically. I told them some one would soon come
+and take their camels and bullocks, and they must not complain to me to
+get them redress. But it is astonishing to see with what zest these
+freed slaves from the north coast enter again upon their old habits of
+plunder and razzia. The education of Africa consists in preparing it for
+the razzia. All the fine-spirited youth of all the great families look
+forward to this as their only occupation.
+
+We reached the rocky hills called Shaidega, near which the lake
+terminates, stretching from Guddemuni. At the base of these rocky
+heights is a sprinkling of huts, and there are indeed many sprinklings
+of huts which cannot be mentioned all along this route. The hill tops
+have no longer the naked appearance of the Saharan rocks, but are
+clothed and crowned with trees. The country is very fine and park-like,
+and were it not for the doom-palm, would be more like some of the best
+parts of Europe than Africa is supposed to be. The animals seen to day
+were two wild boars and some wild oxen. A couple of lions, a male and a
+female, come out nearly every night and serenade the villagers of
+Bogussa at their hut doors. The filthy vultures of Zinder are spread
+through all this fine country. Many doves and water-fowl were seen. We
+forded several stagnant streams of water, but of very small magnitude.
+
+I sheltered myself in the afternoon under a magnificent tree, called in
+Bornouese _kamdu_, and in Soudanese, _samia_. We are beginning to see
+very fine trees, casting an impervious shade, under which the weary
+traveller deliciously reposes in the hot clime. To-day I suffered most
+dreadfully from my horse; with a camel I should have felt nothing, but I
+must submit: there is no remedy.
+
+I believe the Kashalla to be a very good man, and above his plundering
+countrymen generally, but habit induces him to wink at the acts of
+brigandage committed by his people. I observed him yesterday stop a
+little boy with a load on his head, and tell him to run away from the
+people coming up, and take another road, that the caravan might not
+plunder him.
+
+I had an affair with Yusuf yesterday morning: two boxes of biscuit had
+been left entire in his room at Zinder, and now one of them was found
+opened and a quantity of the biscuit taken out. He and his son have
+eaten nearly all the biscuit on the road, together with the Sfaxee and
+others. It is preposterous to think that Government sent these biscuits
+for them, who can eat ghaseb, ghafouley, and any grain of this country,
+and thrive on such food. The Germans gave away their biscuit,
+complaining that it was an embarrassment to them. This encouraged the
+people to plunder me of mine, and now I have little left for the rest of
+my travelling in Africa during the present journey.
+
+_12th._--We started early; the weather always cool, with fresh breezes
+from the east. All our people seem in good health. I got up rather
+stiff, having had a good fall from my horse yesterday. We made only
+three hours and a-half, part north-east and the rest due east. When I
+dismounted I felt less fatigued, and wrote up my journal. We passed
+several villages _en route_ during these few hours; they occur, indeed,
+only about half-an-hour apart: viz. first in order after Bogussa,
+Gerremari, then Lekarari, Algari, a village of fighi pedagogues,
+Giddejer, and then Collori, where we have halted. It is said we shall
+still be three days before we get to the Sultan Minyo, and we have to
+pass Gamatak, Barataua, Birmi, Wonchi, Tungari, and finally, on the
+third day, early, we are to arrive at Gurai, the capital, governed by
+Minyo or Minyoma. Bogussa is the first district under the sway of this
+personage. We have in his name a remarkable instance of how in Africa
+names of cities and countries are confounded with those of their
+provinces. Hitherto, I and my interpreter had always taken it for
+granted that Minyo was the name of the capital of the province, not of
+the prince; so we understood from everybody, and only to-day we learn
+that Gurai is the name of the capital, whilst the province is called
+after the name of the prince, i.e. Minyo, or Minyoma.[21]
+
+ [21] It is worth while leaving this mistake of Mr. Richardson
+      or his informants, as an illustration of the great
+      difficulty that exists in eliciting accurate facts from
+      natives of Africa and other uncivilised countries.--ED.
+
+Our route this morning lay through a remarkably fine district, teeming
+with fertility, and requiring only the hand of industry to render it the
+richest country in the world. Not a ten-thousandth part of the soil is
+cultivated. We met a troop of schoolboys with their masters; their
+boards, bedaubed with Arabic characters, would have been an effectual
+protection for them against a troop of horsemen a thousand times larger
+than ours. But, nevertheless, a poor woman, or a girl with a bowl of
+milk or a little butter, could not pass unscathed. Such is morality
+here. May there not, however, be some promise in this respect for
+education? A woodman left his axe a moment on the roadside; one of our
+troopers immediately went off and seized it. The woodman, returning,
+followed the trooper to the Kashalla, and falling down, and throwing
+dust over his head, begged for his axe as for his life. The Kashalla
+could not withstand the appeal, and ordered his trooper to restore the
+axe. The fellow had concealed the axe, and it was lucky the owner
+discovered the thief so soon. The poor man went away very thankful,
+thanking me also. I believe I may be some check on these depredations,
+for I told my interpreter last night that I never saw a village, or any
+people, pillaged in the Christian countries; in fact, that I could not
+have hitherto believed that men could do the things which I saw done
+that day by the servants of the Kashalla. It is probable he will mention
+what I said to some one, and it will get to the ears of the said
+Kashalla. The Africans, in plundering one another, appear as if they
+were avenging some old grudge; as if they remembered the various
+occasions when they themselves had been pillaged. They rob with
+wonderful _gusto_.
+
+A monotonous uniformity begins to prevail over all these tracts. I am
+afraid I shall soon get tired of this negro population and these towns,
+all built and all peopled in the same manner. They seem remarkably
+curious at first, but curiosity soon palls.
+
+We have with us the Hajah, mentioned before. She is very quiet, being
+_passée_, and also afraid of the Sheikh's people.
+
+I went round the village and found some five hundred or six hundred
+people nestled together. All the villages which we passed to-day have a
+similar population. I saw the preparations for a wedding; it was a most
+amusing sight. Two enclosures were crowded with people, all busy; but
+the busiest were those grinding corn for the marriage-feast. The
+bridegroom was with one group, haranguing them in the most persevering
+manner, and rattling a hollow gourd filled with small stones. The group
+replied in chorus, all on their knees, bending forward, rubbing grain
+between two stones. The other group went on by themselves. Then, in an
+enclosure close by, was the bride, attended with, all her maiden
+friends, jammed together in a hut, all busy, doing nobody knows what. It
+was with great difficulty I could get a peep at her. The bride and her
+friends were distinguished by having a sort of brass nail-head driven
+through the right nostril of their noses. Good big boys were running
+about quite naked. But the conduct of the people, old and young, was
+quite decent.
+
+The bridegroom followed me to my tent, rattling his calabash for a
+present, singing my praises cheaply enough, for I gave him a very small
+present indeed. They have no set songs; all their singing is extempore.
+
+Afterwards I saw a man afflicted with palsy in his head. He applied to
+me for a remedy, but I could only recommend him to bathe himself every
+day in warm water, which will never be done; for these people are too
+indolent to perform any labour of this kind, even if it be to save their
+lives.
+
+My new interpreter, Mohammed, pretends that slave servants, or agents,
+are thought more of, that is, are more useful, than free people in
+Bornou. This may be accounted for by the absolute control which a master
+can exercise over his slave.
+
+The thermometer at sunset ranges 84°. It was very warm this afternoon.
+
+Here and there an ostrich egg tops the conical roofs of the huts, from
+Damerghou to this place. I showed the people my watch, and put it to
+their ears that they might hear it tick, tick; and I may observe a
+singularity on this. The people did not say, "Oh! how it ticks!" but
+"Kal, kal!" so that kal, kal, is the sound which we express by tick,
+tick, in our language.
+
+_13th._--As usual, we rose before sunrise, and started as soon as
+possible. We made four hours in the forenoon, and rested at a well
+called Birni Gamatak. The village is near the well, but we did not go to
+it. From this place to the Tuarick country, Gurasu, there are four short
+days; but the road has no water in this season. The Kaïd of the village
+paid us a visit, and brought us ghaseb-water. I amused him and his
+people with my watch and compass. After resting till 4 P.M. we started
+again. At Birni Gamatak a zone of mountainous country begins, consisting
+of granite, gneiss, and other varieties of primitive rocks. We had a
+magnificent ride through a fine rocky country. After one hour and a-half
+we passed Wonchi to the right, or south of us; a small village. On the
+route we had a boundless vista through the hills, over a vast plain,
+covered with a scattered forest, extending without end towards the
+north. This country is overrun by Tuaricks; all, however, living in
+friendship with the Sheikh. We made five hours and a-half, always east,
+so that we did not arrive at Tungari till long after daylight. Tungari
+consists of two or three considerable villages, having a population of
+about two thousand. Here I saw a greater number of date-trees than I had
+yet seen in Soudan. There were larger plantations, and many gardens. I
+have nothing particular to observe respecting this place, except that
+the people showed more boldness than the population subjected to the
+Sultan of Zinder; because the Sultan of Minyo gives them more protection
+against the Bornou marauders, or Government servants, travelling through
+the country. I went to bed thoroughly fatigued.
+
+_14th._--We rose at daybreak and went off immediately, and made four
+hours north-east, and then from a fine rising ground had a splendid view
+of all the town of Gurai. Our route yesterday and to-day began in a
+south-easterly direction, and after continuing east for some time
+gradually turned round to north-east, so that we have our faces again
+toward the northern desert. Yesterday I felt, for the first time, this
+approaching warm season--a hot wind, which, curiously enough, now comes
+from the north, whereas before it always came from the south.
+
+Gurai is very bare of trees, the townspeople having burnt them all up. I
+kept a-bed all day, to recruit myself from fatigue. The Kashalla went to
+salute the Sultan, who inquired after me. They reported my state, and
+said I should come to see him in the morning (i.e. of next day).
+
+According to a Gatronee, Kellai, a country of the Tuaricks, is one day
+only north-west from Gurai. It is a small village. Gurasu is five days
+from this, north-west. Dallakauri, also a Tuarick country, is one day
+northwards, or north-east. This is a large place. Bultumi, another
+Tuarick country, small; one day, east. Malumri, one day and a-half east.
+Therrai, a small place, a day beyond Dallakauri, north-west, two days
+from this. Chokada, a small place, five or six hours from this. All
+these places are inhabited by the Tuarick tribe of Duggera, viz. Kellai,
+Gurasu, Dallakauri, Bultumi, Malumri, Therrai, and Chokada. This tribe
+infests the upper part of the route of Bornou, that between the Tibboos
+and Kuka. Formerly they were great bandits, but now they fear the Sultan
+of Minyo, and begin to desist from their bad trade and turn to more
+peaceful habits. Bunai is one day and a-half south from Buroi, formerly
+the capital of the province of Minyo, and where the father of the
+present Sultan resided. It is a little less than Burai. Here we are told
+that, after all, Minyo is _not_ the name of the Sultan, as before
+mentioned, but the name of the province, which is sometimes called
+Minyoma, as being more euphonic; but all people love harmony in
+language. This province is considered the most powerful of the empire of
+Bornou.
+
+_15th._--Having selected my present for his highness the Sultan,
+consisting of a piece of cotton velvet for a tobe (ten mahboubs), a head
+of sugar, a little cinnamon and cloves, a piece of muslin for turbans,
+and a cotton handkerchief, I paid my visit under the escort of the
+Kashalla, and the Sultan's major-domo, a man carrying a large stick with
+a great knob at the end. We went straight to the palace, a considerable
+building, built of clay, like the Sultan's house at Zinder, in the shape
+of a fort or castle.
+
+We were first ushered into an audience-room or hall, of large
+dimensions, with little light, adapted for an African climate. It is
+newly built, and indeed not yet finished. The architecture is the same
+as the public buildings or houses of the chief officers in Kuka. Here we
+waited a quarter of an hour, during which time the people poured in from
+all quarters. At length we were ushered into the presence. I found the
+Sultan to be a good-looking black, with features not much stamped with
+the negro character. He was about the age of forty-five or fifty. His
+costume was truly royal, consisting of a loose tobe of purple silk, and
+a black burnouse, embroidered, thrown over it. He wore a turban of
+Egyptian form, and very handsome. His highness received me very affably,
+and I took my seat near him, on a pic-nic stool which I have with me. I
+shook hands, and doffed my hat. There was no throwing of dust about, as
+at Zinder. But we found the Sultan already seated, with all his
+courtiers and officers around him. His highness asked about my health,
+and the Tuaricks. He observed, "The Tuaricks are afraid of you." Some
+persons of that tribe, perhaps, have given him this false view of the
+case, pretending that the Tuaricks are afraid I am come to spy out the
+country, to be taken possession hereafter by the Queen. His highness
+minutely scanned all my European clothes, making many inquiries about
+them. All the people were highly delighted to see me throw aside my
+miserable Soudan tobe, and dress in my European costume. In fact, I
+don't know what I should have done without these clothes. The people
+then pulled off my boots, and burst out into an involuntary exclamation
+of astonishment when they saw my white leg under my stocking. My face
+and hands are both pretty well tanned, and the quality of the European
+skin is not so visible as in the parts of the body covered. His highness
+then inquired whether there was war in Europe, and whether peace existed
+between England and the Porte. He was very anxious to continue his
+questions, but there being two or three hundred persons present, he was
+obliged to defer them till the evening. I was much gratified with the
+sight. It was really a scene of African state, but without deformities.
+There was no blood, no slaying of victims, no abject ceremonies; nothing
+to offend the eye of the European. We merely saw, seated on a raised
+platform, a black, robed in barbaric style of splendour, with a hundred
+courtiers and officers squatted on the ground him, all humble beings,
+but not abject.
+
+On returning, his highness sent our caravan four bullocks, to be
+slaughtered for our use. To-day was market-day, but there was no stock
+of consequence here, there being little foreign commerce. There may be a
+score of foreign merchants, nearly all from Fezzan, but they are mere
+traders, and only bring a few things for the Sultan and his chief
+officers. These merchants say that there is no money here, nor, indeed,
+in Bornou.
+
+The place for money is Kanou. All the wealth of Central Africa is,
+according to them, concentrated there. Kanou is, in fact, the London of
+Soudan. I asked a merchant here, who was accounted rich; that is, who
+was a _Maidukia_? He replied, "One with property to the amount of a
+thousand dollars." Even a man with five hundred is accounted a somebody.
+Such is the estimate of wealth here. I expect to find all Bornou
+miserably poor.
+
+In the evening I waited again on his highness, according to appointment.
+He had descended from his throne, and divested himself of all his
+splendour, being now dressed in a plain tobe and burnouse. He received
+us squatted on a carpet upon the ground, in an inner court, and reminded
+me much of a stage king who had undressed after the performance. I
+produced all my wonderful things to amuse his highness,--my compass,
+spyglass, kaleidoscope, spectacles, peepshow, &c. In this way I amused
+him for an hour, he the while asking questions about my personal habits.
+Our people then told him the sovereign of England was a woman. "_Kamo?_"
+To which I replied, "_Kamo._" I was then requested to read some English,
+which I did from Milton. I always exhibit a small edition of Milton's
+poetry, with gilt edges and morocco binding, which greatly surprises all
+people accustomed to the use of books. The Kashalla then told his
+highness that I washed my face and hands continually, but did not pray.
+I explained through my interpreter that now, in a foreign country, I
+read my prayers, and that we had the Gospel; and he added, "The Zebour,"
+Psalms of David. All educated Muslims are acquainted with or have heard
+of the Psalms of David. I take out a copy of the Gospel and Psalms in
+Arabic, that every educated Mahommedan may see that we English are not
+the En-Sara or Kerdies of Africa, but have a God and a religion. The
+inconvenience of this is, that it leads sometimes to talking and
+disputing on religion, not always in season. A prudent man, however,
+will evade all difficulties without compromising his belief. We had
+again present a hundred people, or more, and his highness was disturbed
+at the number, but did not like to send them away. He asked me how old I
+was; and of my servants, whether I was married, &c.
+
+I returned pleased with my visit, although I lost one of my peepshows;
+for the Kashalla was foolish enough to tell me to give it to his
+highness. This is the danger of exhibiting these things. I took to the
+prince a small present of rings, silk, bracelets, and a necklace of mock
+pearls for his ladies; and hope to get back my peepshow by exchanging it
+for some such trinkets. This was a cool day, with a fresh breeze
+continually blowing.
+
+_16th._--I rose in a quieter state, though I have been much fatigued
+these last few days. It is expected we shall be here two or three days
+more. Fifteen days is the time allowed for our journey from this to
+Kuka. The people display greater curiosity to see me than the
+inhabitants of Zinder, this province being more out of the way of
+strangers. Yesterday, on returning from the palace, I had a hundred
+people at my heels.
+
+The mode of salutation for a sultan is peculiar in these provinces. It
+consists in holding up and back the lower part of the arm, and moving it
+up and down--to denote strength, probably; an intimation of local
+strength, as well as that of the body generally. I have been often
+saluted in this manner, and the mode is employed to strangers or any
+distinguished person.
+
+N.B.--The people of Kanem have not the shonshona.
+
+The oars of the boat are now carried, as the people say, by Ben-Adam
+(children of Adam, i.e. men). It is certainly more difficult to get them
+through these African forests than over the rocks of Sahara on the
+camel's back. Five servants of the Sultan of Zinder left this morning,
+having brought them thus far, to return. I gave them a little present of
+wadâ and rings.
+
+Gurai is somewhat smaller than Zinder, having a population of perhaps
+seven thousand souls. I have overrated the population of Zinder: that
+city, probably, does not contain more than ten thousand souls, if so
+many. On emerging from the Saharan Desert, where we had been accustomed
+to bestow the name of town upon great scattered villages, with a few
+hundred inhabitants, Zinder appeared to me quite a capital city. The
+town of Gurai is scattered about on several hills, and down their
+slopes. These hills are bare of trees and vegetation.
+
+There is a dry ditch surrounding the town. It answers the purpose of a
+fortification, especially as its effect is aided by a thickset hedge. At
+some places this hedge is growing; at others, it consists merely of
+branches cut from various trees, but rendered almost impenetrable by
+being made broad and thick. These defences are quite effectual in the
+kind of wars carried on in these regions.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIX.
+
+Fezzanee Traders--Sultan in want of Medicine--The Stud--Letters--Yusuf's
+Conduct--Architecture--Fragment of the History of Minyo--Politics
+of Zinder--Bornouese Fish--Visits--Two Routes--Dancing by
+Moonlight--Richness--Fires--Information on Boushi and Adamaua--The
+Yamyam--Liver Complaints--A Girl's Game--Desert Country--Gift Camel--Few
+Living Creatures--Village of Gusumana--Environs--The Doom
+Fruit--Brothers of Sultan of Sakkatou--Stupid Kadi--Showing off--Hot
+Weather--[Final Note--Death of Mr. Richardson.]
+
+
+I had visits yesterday from all the Fezzanee traders. These people, as
+at Zinder, and everywhere at Soudan, sell their goods at a high price to
+the Sultan, and then are obliged to wait six or seven months for their
+money, eating up all their profits. No wonder the poor fellows rarely
+get rich, but remain, on the contrary, always miserably poor. The same
+is the case throughout all Soudan. To-day my tent was thronged with
+visitors, before whom I am obliged to exhibit myself, or show my
+curiosities. Among others, I had a visit from some people who came from
+Gobter, distant four hours south, on purpose to see me; and, moreover,
+had a call from some ladies nearly related to the Sultan. They all
+wanted medicine, but for what they could not tell; so I gave them each a
+taste of Epsom. This made them relish a bit of sugar, which I distribute
+to them afterwards, and which appeased their grimaces and disgust. I am
+pestered to death for medicines, and have visitors without number.
+
+The Sultan sent word this morning to know if I had anything to sell, any
+fine things from the Christian countries, for he wished to buy them. Our
+people returned for answer that I was not a merchant, but belonged to
+the Queen. He then begged me to give him a small quantity of my
+medicines, for he had heard I had most wonderful drugs;--would I favour
+him with some of every kind, that he might be prepared for all possible
+complaints which might attack him hereafter, when I was gone? For the
+present he is suffering from pains in all his joints; and requests, in
+the first place, to be relieved from them. Compliance with these demands
+was, of course, necessary. I therefore packed up small quantities of
+emetics, acetate of lead, worm-powders, and Epsom, and also a little
+camphor, and a little sticking-plaster, with a small bottle of Eau de
+Cologne. With these I went to pay my respects. We found the Sultan in a
+small private apartment. He was in an inquisitive mood, and began by
+asking me all manner of questions, the subjects ranging from the affairs
+of kings and princes down to the handkerchief round my neck. I should
+observe that the Sultan requested Yusuf to taste the medicines before he
+delivered them up to him, to see that there was no blood in them. So he
+tasted the salts and the jalap; but I told him that the acetate of lead
+was poison, and we wrote _sem_ upon all the packets. It surprised him
+that we should administer poison to the eyes.
+
+After the interview his servants showed me his horses. They were but
+ill-formed animals, some heavily built, and others miserable-looking
+creatures. Yet these are the pick of the whole country, and some have
+been lately brought from Sakkatou, as the best which could be exported
+from that quarter.
+
+In the afternoon another slave of Haj Beshir arrived from Zinder,
+seeking for me. He had brought a letter, but had orders if he did not
+find me to return it to Kuka; so that I shall be without news until my
+arrival. He, however, just knows that a caravan came from Mourzuk in
+thirty-nine days, bringing this letter, which was forwarded to me. It
+comes direct from Tripoli. There are three letters for me!
+
+This evening my new interpreter came with a long trumped-up story, as to
+what the Sultan had said respecting my quarrel with Yusuf. His highness
+was represented to have expressed a strong desire that we might be
+reconciled before we arrived at Kuka. I cannot tell whether this be true
+or false. Probably they have attempted to get the Sultan to speak to me
+about Yusuf. This is always the case. These people do you as much injury
+as they please on the road, and when they are near a place which makes
+them afraid, they get a number of people to come and persuade you to say
+that they are very good fellows. It is quite clear that Yusuf has stolen
+several things on the road. The last thing missed is a large quantity of
+cloves. It is difficult to know how to act on these occasions.
+
+_17th._--I took Epsom, and feel better.
+
+The architectural ornaments of the palace of Gurai resemble those of the
+houses of Ghât. The walls are covered with little recesses, of various
+shapes; the moulding consists of a series of lozenges; the pillars by
+which the ceiling is supported are of immense thickness. In these large
+halls, on a level with the ground, there are always raised seats of
+earth, on which are spread carpets, and lion and leopard skins.
+
+By the way, this country seems clear of animals. They are all either
+hunted down, or driven into thicker shades and forests.
+
+All these provinces have their histories preserved traditionally. The
+father of the present Sultan of Gurai, named Ibrahim, was a most
+determined fellow. He slew no less than seven sultans appointed to take
+his place. The Sheikh, in the first instance, sent a large army to
+dispossess him. Before superior forces he retired to a mountain, where
+he was unattackable. The new Sultan was installed, and the troops of
+Bornou returned to Kuka. As soon as they were gone, Ibrahim descended
+the mountains with his slaves, and fell upon the new prince, butchering
+him and his people. Then he wrote to Kuka: "I am under God and you." The
+Sheikh, enraged at this conduct, sent another force against him, as
+before. Ibrahim once more retired to his stronghold, and after the
+Bornou forces had returned to Kuka, again descended from his mountain,
+and butchered the new prince as before. And this he repeated seven
+times, so that at last the Sheikh, seeing the impossibility of
+continuing the war with such a vassal, allowed him to have quiet
+possession of the province of Minyo. His son Goso, now sultan, is also a
+very spirited fellow; but he is on good terms with the Sheikh, and
+observed to me, "What Kuka (the Sheikh) does, I do; as what Stamboul
+does, so does Tripoli." Goso, or Gausau, is certainly a very polite
+prince, and a very accomplished man. To him the Sultan of Zinder is a
+mere slave.
+
+There is some news about the Sultan of Zinder. It appears that Sarkee
+Ibrahim feels himself weak, and unable to conduct the government of the
+province prosperously, i.e. "to go on razzia;" so he wrote for his
+brother to come and undertake the command of the slave-hunts. The
+brother spoke to the Sheikh, who said "Go." But the brother said, "No, I
+will not go, unless you will give me the province to govern." The Sheikh
+replied, "Your brother will give you some town." "No," was the answer;
+"I will not go unless you will give me the whole province." This is now
+the great news in Zinder and Gurai, and was carried to the former place
+by two horsemen, who galloped from Kuka to Zinder in six days.
+
+I now write the names of the sultans of the province in Arabic, before
+them, with a black-lead pencil. This greatly astonishes them: first,
+that I am able to write their names and that of the countries which they
+govern; and secondly, with a black-lead pencil, which they call wood.
+
+_Names of several sorts of Fish (Buni) in Bornou._
+
+Yogari, a large flat fish, four or five feet long, and as many broad.
+
+Kagwi, a fish like a cod or ling.
+
+Haik, one foot and a half long, three or four inches broad.
+
+Kamudee, one foot and a half long, thick as the lower arm, and quite
+black.
+
+Karwa and Kagia, species of small plaice.
+
+Labun, of the size of a locust.
+
+Kadikadi, large thick eel.
+
+The Sultan is very anxious about my personal history, and hearing that I
+had my wife in Tripoli, inquired if I intended to take another in this
+country.
+
+I have had numberless visits all day long. The people display an intense
+curiosity to see the Christian, and would stop here for ever, gazing
+before my tent. Four sisters of the Sultan gave me a call. I taught them
+the use of pins, and pinned three of them together, which produced great
+merriment amongst the people. A Fellatah horse-dealer gave me two routes
+to-day; one from this (Gurai) to Sakkatou, and another from Sakkatou
+towards the west.[22]
+
+ [22] See Appendix.
+
+A quarrel has sprung up between the Kashalla and Saïd, Haj Beshir's
+slave, about the road we should take from this to Kuka. The
+north-eastern, or direct east, is the shortest, but there are three days
+without habitations: this is Saïd's road. The south-eastern is the
+longer route, and is the Kashalla's, but there are people every day. The
+latter is probably the better route for me. It is decided that we leave
+the day after to-morrow.
+
+This evening the Sultan sent me a camel, as a present. Not having
+experienced the difficulty of riding a horse, I had sold all my camels.
+The gift camel is a very good one.
+
+When the moon rises, about an hour after dark, the beating of the drums
+is heard, calling the people to assemble for the dancing--young men and
+maidens. In ten minutes, some hundred people are collected. The dancing
+then commences in full and grand style. This evening I went out to see
+the performance, and found it the most animating I had yet seen in
+Africa. The young men and maidens separated into parties, the maidens
+near the drummers, and the young men at a distance of some twenty paces
+around them. A circle is then formed. The ladies here choose their own
+partners, instead of waiting to be chosen. A maiden skips up awkwardly
+to the drummer, then glides off to the side of the young men, and
+touches the gentleman with whom she wishes to dance, and returns. The
+young man does not immediately accept, for two or three minutes elapse
+after he has been touched ere he starts off to join the lady who has
+honoured him in the presence of a hundred admiring or jealous
+spectators. They join, turning first face to face, then back to back,
+then face to the drummers, in the most lively style. The young men are
+dressed in their tobes, and throw them up and round so as to produce a
+moving circle, as women might do with their petticoats; but not moving
+their bodies so much as their circling tobes: this is the grand grace of
+the dance. Then there are parties of men and women dancing together; but
+the men with men, and women with women. The women trip up awkwardly, but
+modestly, to where the men are placed, and then fall back; upon which
+the men pursue them violently, overtaking them before they get to their
+places, and throwing their tobes around them: but there is nothing
+indelicate in all this. On the contrary, the whole dance is quite a
+pattern of modesty to the Europeans, the Arabs, and the Moors,--to these
+latter especially, whose dance, as introduced here, is of the most
+lascivious and beastly description. This entertainment takes place every
+night; it is the great solace and delight of the people: they have no
+other amusement. They are all passionately fond of the drum, which
+certainly makes a great noise, and stirs them up to exhibit their
+dancing powers.
+
+The whole population have suddenly become sick, and all want Epsom
+salts: a camel-load would not suffice. One old fellow wants a medicine
+to enable him to get children. I tell him he is now old, and must be
+satisfied with the strength God has given him in his past life.
+
+The Sultan has made presents to our people,--to the Kashalla, Yusuf, and
+others.
+
+_18th._--I was so beset with people that I could not use my thermometer
+this morning. The weather is fresh, with the wind from the north-east. I
+am obliged to give tea as medicine: everybody now pretends to be sick,
+from the Sultan to the meanest slave.
+
+In all these villages the people burn up the stubble in the evening,
+just outside the village, on the dung-heaps. They like to see the flame
+which whirls up from the dirty hay or straw; but, of course, they make
+their fire at some distance, to prevent its catching their huts. The
+mortar and pestle have disappeared: the people use here, for grinding
+their grain, two stones, as in some places on the north coast.
+
+The insects are beginning their depredations upon me, biting me all
+over, and raising on my flesh small ulcers.
+
+I have obtained from Nammadina, the Fellatah horse-dealer, a detailed
+account of the route to Yola, the capital of Adamaua, passing through
+Boushi.
+
+The Moors represent the latter place to be like Mourzuk and Tripoli; but
+they say the greater part of the inhabitants of Adamaua are infidels or
+pagans. The rulers are, however, Fellatahs, and therefore Muslims.
+Adamaua is a rocky country: a small quantity of grain is found here,
+with abundance of sheep, oxen, horses, goats, fish, samen, honey, and
+onions. The rivers of Adamaua have always some water in them.
+
+In the territory of Boushi will be found the celebrated name of Yamyam,
+where the Moorish and Arab merchants place the residence of the Ben-Adam
+eaters, or cannibals. I was greatly amused to hear my Fellatah informant
+most strenuously deny this calumny on the African race; he asserted that
+he had been in the country, and never had seen anything of this sort.
+The Moors as boldly affirmed that such cannibals exist, although they
+were obliged to confess they never saw the people of Adamaua or Yakoba
+(name of the sultan) eat human flesh. The whole story of the Yamyam is
+of the remotest antiquity, and has come down to us with many
+embellishments; but, if once true of the people hereabouts, it can no
+longer be authenticated by present facts, for as I have said, the Moors
+themselves represent Boushi to be like Tripoli.
+
+The people from Fezzan and Tripoli, the traders and all, complain of the
+liver complaint; most of them have been ten or fifteen years in this
+country, travelling through Bornou and Soudan. I gave them small doses
+of calomel. All people at this season, blacks and strangers from the
+north, are full of rheumatism, which they describe by saying they have
+pains in all their joints and all their limbs. The presence of a
+Christian having medicines heightens and multiplies these diseases;
+there is, however, in reality, a good deal of rheumatism, arising from
+the cold winds of the north-east.
+
+This evening we had again our drummers and the dancers, as on every
+preceding night. The girls have a laughable game amongst themselves, the
+boys, however, sometimes joining--that of throwing one another up and
+forwards by the arm-pits; the girl thus thrown forwards is expected, if
+she play her part well, to light firmly on her feet. If not, she rolls
+about and over, and the accidents that then occur are probably
+considered a great part of the amusement.
+
+_19th._--We were hurried off this morning early by the Kashalla, and I
+had no time to go and take leave of the Sultan. The weather is fresh. I
+mounted my gift camel; the second grand gift from the princes of Africa.
+We made a long day, from morning till after dark, about ten hours,
+through an undulating country. Some of the hollows were very deep, and
+enclosed stagnant reedy pools, of generally bad water, remaining from
+the past rains. For the first three or four hours of this march we had a
+scattered forest of dwarfish trees, mostly dwarf tholukhs. These are
+succeeded by small forests of the doom-palms, lining the pools and
+swamps in the valleys, and looking very fresh and pretty. I was
+astonished to see so few animals; indeed, we only observed now and then
+a small bird. What was the more strange, no water-fowl was seen in the
+pools.
+
+But the country to-day was all desert--no grain cultivating, which
+perhaps may account for the absence of birds and fowls. Saïd prevailed
+over the Kashalla, and we have taken the desert route, being five days
+nearer. There are, besides, but few trees, comparatively, which makes it
+easier to transport the boat.
+
+The Kashalla vexed me very much by taking my camel to transport a
+portion of baggage, his own camel knocking up. At first I refused to go
+on, but on the promise that he would get a bullock at the nearest place
+I mounted upon the luggage. Fortunately, my gift camel is a good one,
+not like the horse, and can carry a large weight. I cannot grumble much,
+as the Sheikh's camels are transporting many of my private things.
+Nevertheless you must show a stern resistance to all these liberties,
+otherwise you will never be able to get through Africa.
+
+No tent was pitched, but I made myself comfortable by drinking the
+remainder of a bottle of port wine, which I began yesterday. I felt a
+little queer, and fancied I had injured myself by drinking so much milk;
+so I took to a bottle of port wine, and finished it in three times. I
+have felt much better since. I could very well drink a bottle a-day, and
+believe I should be much stronger for it. However, such wine should be
+kept for convalescence after fever. I have still a bottle, and some
+Cyprus wine--very good wine.
+
+_20th._--We started as soon as the day broke and the sun showed himself,
+and made five hours south-east over country the same as yesterday. But
+the forests of doom-palms were larger and thicker, and valleys also were
+more extensive. What is strange, no wild animals show themselves, not
+even in these sedgy, reedy swamps. I could only see scattered on the
+ground the feathers of the guinea-fowl. One or two black-and-white crows
+were noticed. Our people say that all the crows are of this colour in
+Bornou. In Ashen there are both species, the black, and the
+black-and-white. Our people also tell us, that on the other route, which
+the Kashalla wished to travel, there are numbers of elephants, and much
+water. Here is water enough in the rainy season for all such animals. We
+had still the tholukh, as well as the doom, and a tree like a large
+sea-shore plant cropped by the camels.
+
+We saw no ghaseb cultivation, or any sort of grain, till we arrived at
+Gusumana, where we found wheat, cotton, and pepper in the gardens. The
+village of Gusumana is situated on a hill, overlooking a steep broad
+valley, full of the doom-palm. This village has therefore its houses
+constructed partly with the branches and trunks of this tree, which
+serve very well. I am housed in a most comfortable little hut made of
+this material, and nicely thatched; the door is composed of some thin
+strips of the leaves of the palm, which, as you enter, give way, and
+then return to their place, just as would a curtain. In this way the air
+always plays freely into the hut, murmuring sometimes between these
+fragments of leaves.
+
+I have felt much less fatigue since I mounted the camel, although I have
+made the longest day upon it that has been made since we left Zinder. I
+recommend to all travellers the camel in the desert, or in Soudan. I
+believe the ill-health of the former expedition was much increased by
+always riding horses. Thank God, my strength still keeps up.
+
+Taking Gusumana as a centre, we have around it several towns and
+villages. Thisi, one hour west; Gajemmi, one long day north-west; Parum,
+one hour east-south-east; Kadellebua, two hours south-west; Garua, one
+hour east; Gogora, two hours east; and, finally, in our road, Kanggarua,
+two days south-east. The town of Gajemmi is inhabited by the tribe of
+Duggera; but the Kaïd of this village pretends they are not Tuaricks. He
+means, probably, not the same as the Tuaricks of Ashen. It is quite
+clear that these Daggera inhabit all the northern line of Bornou, from
+Zinder to Kuka; skirting, in fact, all the left of our route. They join
+the Damerghou territory, and thus extend from that province west to
+Kanem, and the route of Bornou east. The Tuaricks are ever located on
+the confines of the desert. Here they roam free, and rob and plunder
+where they have opportunity, or when the princes of Bornou and Soudan
+cannot check them.
+
+Our people gnaw the doom fruit, but it is just like gnawing the bark of
+a tree, slightly flavoured with some aroma. They begin to eat them from
+childhood, and so keep on, as the gour-nuts are chewed by children; and
+so the taste is sucked in with their mother's milk. The gour-nut,
+however, is something, whilst the doom fruit is mere wood. The tree,
+nevertheless, is green, and in waving forests delightfully relieves this
+hot, burning, African landscape.
+
+The portion of the caravan consisting of bullocks is always much later
+than the rest; to-day they were four hours after us. I consider that the
+hours we now go are at least two and a-half or three English miles in
+length, as we advance at a speed quite equal to a horse walking at a
+good pace; nay, I might say, some hours we make three and a-half English
+miles.
+
+The following are the names of the brothers of the Sultan of Sakkatou,
+obtained from my Fellatah informant of Gurai. A difference of
+pronunciation will be observed in the Arab names, as they are
+transmitted through the Fellatah language. Aliu (for Ali), name of the
+Sultan himself and one of his brothers; Mallaidi; Amadu (Ahmed), Omeru
+(Omer, two of this name), Mahammedu (Mahammed), Mogari; Amadu Bedai;
+Alhattu; Moho; Isa (two of this name); Amadu el-Fai; Musa;
+Abd-el-Kaderi, and Abd-el-Walli. These are the names of all the brothers
+which he has heard. The first minister is called Galladima. The Kadi is
+El-Hali el-Haj; Inna is the generalissimo; Mohammed Wuddeggen, Muddebri
+Ali, Bu Beker, Manuri, and Gudundi, are names of other grandees and
+generals. The horse-dealer speaks of them with great familiarity, for he
+sells to them all. His own country is called Kabi, situated to the
+south-west of Sakkatou. He gave me the particulars of the route.[23]
+
+ [23] See Appendix.
+
+_21st._--This morning the weather was cool, the thermometer standing at
+56°, with a fresh wind. We had a visit early from the Kadi. I asked him
+why he did not plant date-trees in the fine valley under the village. He
+replied, "From whence shall I procure them?" I answered, "From Tungari
+(a place west, three days distant)." At this he looked very stupid.
+These Minyo negroes have no idea of improving their condition. His reply
+may serve for all the country hereabouts.
+
+Minyo and its large province is called by its aboriginal names Manga. It
+extends south-east to a river, on the other side of which begins Bornou
+Proper. But the people of Manga speak the same language as the
+Bornouese. Zinder belongs to the circle of Soudan, and its province is
+called Damagram.
+
+Mohammed, my interpreter, pretends he saw elephants to-day at a
+considerable distance, looking like black trees. Probably to-morrow we
+may fall in with some animals worth seeing. I observed two or three
+swallows, the first this year. We stop here to-day to rest. The animals
+are knocked up, and the Kashalla has lost a horse.
+
+It is from this Manga province that many of the villages of Damerghou
+are populated. Formerly the Tuaricks of that province made razzias on
+these out-lying provinces, with the produce of which they increased the
+number of their subjects.
+
+An European must needs show off in this country. Yesterday I was obliged
+to exhibit to all the village,--about a hundred people,--and to-day to
+as many more. It is very fortunate if you are not detestably ugly, and
+can pass muster; for if you are, you will have all sorts of faces made
+at you; and, besides, you will be considered to represent a whole people
+as an ugly race. I walked round the village. There may be two hundred
+huts, and about six hundred inhabitants. The sun burns at four P.M. most
+fiercely. I begin to be afraid of it; but the days are uncertain, and
+sometimes the weather is quite chilly.
+
+According to my interpreter, Mohammed Ben Ahmed Bu Saad, there is no
+money in Bornou, and the Sheikh could never obtain a strong army. We
+certainly find considerable difficulty all along to get an extra camel
+or bullock, and those to be obtained are very bad ones. The people
+cultivate very little, and have no resources to fall back on. They have
+just a little grain for themselves. The Sheikh of this place is a
+respectable man, and has been very civil to me. He, however, requires
+from me a medicine to procure him a good reception wherever he goes. He
+says he is frequently called to Minyo and other large places, and he
+wants a medicine to procure him the smiles, good-will, and friendship of
+all the people whom he meets. Especially he wishes always to have the
+favour of the Sultan. I had numbers of other patients all day; my Epsom
+is fast going. Thermometer at sunset, 82°; weather very troublesome
+to-day, blowing hot and cold with the same breath.[24]
+
+ [24] Here ends Mr. Richardson's journal, with words which
+      already hint the cause of the lamentable accident that
+      speedily followed. Spring was advancing with its uncertain
+      temperature in Central Africa. The thermometer varied
+      nearly thirty degrees between the morning and afternoon.
+      Doubtless, however, the unusual fatigue of horse-exercise
+      during the days that succeeded the departure from Zinder
+      may have contributed its share in breaking down Mr.
+      Richardson's strength. Something of a desponding tone may
+      be observed in the journal for many pages; but we do not
+      find that there was any cessation of industry. In addition
+      to what is found in the regular diary, a good many notes
+      were left written in pencil. Among the principal of them
+      are the following:--
+
+      "In Kanem, north of Bornou, it rains a month earlier in the
+      season than in that province; in Bornou, one month earlier
+      than in Kanou; in Kanou, one month earlier than at Niffee.
+      The heat of to-day, under a thatch hut, at one P.M., same
+      as yesterday, 96°. Sugar dissolved into a wash is a common
+      remedy in Soudan and Bornou for bad eyes; but, perhaps, it
+      is made an excuse for getting sugar from us."
+
+      "In the evening we marched two hours and a-half in an
+      E.S.E. direction. We were met by the Sheikh of the place,
+      with some fifteen horse, and a mounted drummer. No wild
+      animals are seen, on account of the fires in the desert
+      (made, however, by the people on purpose to catch them). No
+      water-fowls swim in the pools, probably because there is no
+      cultivation. But this is the real country of the elephants.
+      I saw the dung some two days before, and could not make out
+      what it was. These days the dung was more abundant, and the
+      people told me what it was. The people about here do not
+      hurt them, their spears being useless against the hide of
+      this great quadruped; the hunters, however, entangle the
+      smaller animals--gazelles, &c.--by means of a great wheel
+      made of cane. The animals put their feet in the middle,
+      which gives in, and holds them, whilst the top is secured
+      by strong cords."
+
+      "Mandemnia.
+
+      "Kangarwar, half the size of Zinder. First day, evening
+      march, seven hours, pitched in open country; course, S.E.
+      Second day, pitched in open country; course, E. Third day,
+      six hours, E.N.E. Fourth day, half-an-hour's morning march.
+      Mandemnia village people occupied in making salt."
+
+      I believe Mr. Richardson was sometimes in the habit of
+      jotting down observations in this way on loose pieces of
+      paper previous to inserting them in his journal, which he
+      evidently wrote in great part with a view to its being sent
+      to the press, though at others he breaks away into a series
+      of disconnected memoranda. We have no further account of
+      what happened between the 21st of February and the 4th of
+      March, than what is contained in the letter written by Dr.
+      Barth, Mr. Richardson's fellow-traveller, so often
+      mentioned in the foregoing pages (see Preface).--ED.
+
+
+
+
+APPENDIX.
+
+
+LIST OF ROUTES, &c.
+
+
+_Route from Zinder to Kanou._
+
+From Zinder, starting S.S.E., Kankandi, one hour.
+
+Baban Tabki, a quarter of an hour.
+
+Dunai, four hours: large place, or village.
+
+Guna, one hour: large place.
+
+Karaiai, four hours: large village.
+
+Washa, seven hours: town and residence of a sultan.
+
+Kakibarai, three hours. This place consists of three villages; one upon
+the rocky hills, one on the slope, and one under the rocks. At Washa
+there are also rocks; the rest of the route is flat. From Washa to
+Kakibarai there is a most copious supply of water.
+
+Gordo, ten hours: large village.
+
+Eshkakato, two hours: large village.
+
+Tumbi, two hours: town and residence of a sultan. Omitting one place,
+the name of which was not remembered, then follows:
+
+Maidabara, one hour.
+
+Gumel, two hours: town and residence of a sultan.
+
+Tukkenzuru, one hour.
+
+Bermanaua, one hour: large village.
+
+Elladi, one hour. Here terminates the territory of Bornou.
+
+Garki, two hours: a very populous place, and said to be the residence of
+seven sultans (or governors). Here begins the territory of the
+Fellatahs.
+
+Dago, three hours.
+
+Kuka Maifurra, two hours.
+
+Kuka Mairua, one hour and a half.
+
+Gubbasaua, two hours.
+
+Souk (name not remembered), two hours.
+
+Gaizaua, two hours: a large place.
+
+Sharo, one hour. Here are three running streams, each separated by about
+a quarter of an hour's ride.
+
+Zango, a quarter of an hour. From Sharo to Kanou there are no less than
+thirty small villages.
+
+Kanou, a quarter of an hour. The whole of the route, with the exception
+of the rocks of Washa and Kakibarai, is flat, and trees are scattered
+along all the road. From Gumel to Dogo there is a forest, and from
+Kakibarai to Gordo the country is covered with the doom-palm. In all the
+towns and villages above enumerated is found a good supply of water. The
+portion of Bornouese territory is sandy, and that of the Fellatah's good
+earthy soil.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_Routes from Zinder to Kuka: first route, viâ Minyo._
+
+From Zinder to
+
+Zarmu, half a day; village. (The half day is from four to five hours.)
+
+Ginnewa, half a day; village.
+
+Majia, seven hours; village.
+
+Minyo, half a day; town and residence of a sultan of considerable power
+and influence.
+
+Alkammaram, seven hours; well.
+
+Kadalafua, seven hours; large village.
+
+Birribirchi, seven hours; well.
+
+Kagarwa, half a day; large village.
+
+Karragu-fillai, three hours.
+
+Gurrutua, half a day; town, and residence of a sultan.
+
+Zangairi, name of a river and a village, three hours. Here is a large
+river, which, however, is dry in summer. Most of these rivers are dry
+during the two or three hot months.
+
+Miggeba, four hours; a village.
+
+Zaggatur, half a day; a village.
+
+Bua, four hours; a village.
+
+Bagusu, half a day; a village.
+
+Kuka, four hours; town.
+
+This route is usually reckoned at fifteen days' journey: trees are
+abundant on all the route, especially the doom-palm. There are, besides,
+many streams of water, on the banks of which are seen animals of every
+description.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_Second Route, viâ Mashena._
+
+Miria, three hours; town, and residence of a sultan. Here is a small
+lake, where palateable fish are caught. Abundance of corn is also found
+here.
+
+Gushi, eight hours; town, and residence of a sultan.
+
+Gijemu, three hours; village.
+
+Zubaggeru, eight hours; large village.
+
+Funokam, three hours; village.
+
+Mashena, three hours; town, and residence of a sultan.
+
+Bundi, half a day; town, and residence of a sultan.
+
+Karimairi, three hours; town, and residence of a sultan.
+
+Zorikulo, eight hours; village.
+
+Kafi, three hours; village.
+
+Ganaua, half a day; village.
+
+Wadi, half a day; village.
+
+Gurrutua, eight hours; village.
+
+Miggeba, half a day; village. A river, in which water is found three
+feet deep during the summer.
+
+Fataganna, three hours; village.
+
+Dumrua, half a day; village.
+
+Shilaua, half a day; a village.
+
+Basher, half a day; a village.
+
+Kuka, three hours.
+
+This route abounds with trees, water, fruit, corn, and many animals.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_Route from Gumel to Kuka._
+
+From Gumel to
+
+Shafoa, half a day; large village.
+
+Taganama, half a day; large town, and residence of a sultan.
+
+Mashena, six hours; town, residence of a sultan.
+
+Gumsi, seven hours; large village.
+
+Zirku-Kura, ten hours; running water and wells.
+
+Enki-Kura (i.e. large water), twelve hours; a large lake, stagnant,
+having no communication with other water.
+
+Lauwanri, ten hours; large village.
+
+Diru, ten hours; large village.
+
+Chilumwa, ten hours; large village.
+
+Burburwa, twelve hours; a large walled town, and what is called
+_Biad-es-souk_, i.e. where a market is held.
+
+Daboko, twelve hours; small village, near a large river.
+
+Limbua, ten hours: this place consists of fifty or sixty little
+villages.
+
+Binaua, eight hours, comprising many small villages.
+
+Kamis-Ali, five hours, or place where a market is held.
+
+Basher, eight hours; village.
+
+Kuka, four hours.[25]
+
+ [25] In the former route, Basher is given as only three hours
+      from Kuka. In the next route, Bagusu is made eight hours
+      from Kuka, whilst a little back we have it set down at only
+      half that distance. These discrepancies, of course, set
+      geographers on their guard against placing any absolute
+      dependence on native reports. I remember once questioning
+      the inhabitants of a village in Egypt about the distance of
+      a particular place. One said, five or six hours; others
+      said, a short day; and others, a long day. However, by
+      comparison of various statements, perhaps something like
+      the truth may be reached.--ED.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_Route from Kanou to Kuka._
+
+From Kanou to
+
+Gaizaua, six hours; a large place.
+
+Kuka-Mairua, eight hours.
+
+Gerki, nine hours.
+
+Gumel, half a day; town, residence of a sultan.
+
+Ungua-Kalu, eight hours: this place includes two villages.
+
+Gullairi, ten hours; large village, or town without walls.
+
+Mashena, half a day; town, and residence of a sultan.
+
+Bundi, half a day; town, and residence of a sultan.
+
+Karremeri, four hours; a town, three times as large as Zinder.
+
+Zolikulo, eleven hours; village.
+
+Kafi, eight hours; village.
+
+Ganaua, nine hours; village.
+
+Dellella, half a day; village.
+
+Kashimwa, ten hours; large place, and a river.
+
+Miggeba, eight hours; village.
+
+Kassachia, five hours; villages: large river, dry in summer.
+
+Ura, eight hours; village.
+
+Kinchakusko, ten hours; village.
+
+Bagusu, ten hours.
+
+Kuka, eight hours.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_Route from Kuka to Mourzuk._
+
+From Kuka, north, to
+
+Urutua, half a day; small village.
+
+Karillewa, half a day; a well.
+
+Yau, half a day; walled town, large river.
+
+Burwa, twelve hours; walled town.
+
+Wuddi, twelve hours; stream, running into the Tchad (great lake).
+
+Gaigomai, four hours; small villages and rivers.
+
+Bir-Hamam, twelve hours; well.
+
+Kufai, nine hours; one tree; resting-place, formerly a well.
+
+Kibbu, fifteen hours; a well.
+
+Bel-Kashefferri, three days, and arrive the fourth day after six hours.
+
+Agdem, one day and a-half; well, large rocks and sandhills.
+
+Dubbula, two days; well, large rocks and sandhills.
+
+Zau, one day and a-half; well, large sandhills.
+
+Musguatin, seven hours; well, rocks.
+
+Bilma, four hours; large walled town.
+
+Shummenduro, eleven hours; town upon the rocks.
+
+Dirku, two hours; walled town, and residence of the Sultan of the
+Tibboos (capital).
+
+Ashennema, half a day; village and rocks.
+
+Amchumma, ten hours; village and rocks.
+
+Anai, two hours; village and rocks.
+
+Yuguba, twelve hours; a well.
+
+Sigdem, twelve hours; well and rocks.
+
+Maffarus, one day and a half; well.
+
+Lahmer, one day and a half; well and rocks.
+
+War, three days; well, and mountains of great height and magnitude.
+
+Meshru, two days; well and rocks.
+
+Oma, twelve hours. Here the traveller at length sees a forest of
+date-palms; and the first district of Fezzan begins.
+
+Tajerrhi, eleven hours; walled town.
+
+Kazraua, twelve hours; village.
+
+Mudrusai, half a day; village.
+
+Gatron, two hours; village.
+
+Hafari, twelve hours; well and date-palms.
+
+Mustutai, fifteen hours; well and date-palms.
+
+Bithan, twelve hours; village.
+
+Sidi Beshir, half a day; village.
+
+Mourzuk, three hours.
+
+_Obs._--All the Tibboo districts, like those of Fezzan, have forests of
+date-palms. Between Maffarus and Oma there is no herbage during seven
+days. The greatest quantity of sand in this route is found between Agdem
+and Zau.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_Route from Kuka, to Mandara._
+
+From Kuka, south, to
+
+Manguno, nine hours; a large town.
+
+Dikua, half a day; a walled town, and residence of a sultan.
+
+Gasa, ten hours; a village.
+
+Quondega, seven hours; a large village.
+
+Gamergu, five hours; a large village.
+
+Karaua, twelve hours; first country of Mandara, of great height.
+
+Izgai, four hours; village and rocks.
+
+Dulo, four hours; villages and rocks.
+
+Mora, three hours; a walled city, and capital of Mandara, a small city,
+containing not more than ten thousand souls. The Sultan has five hundred
+cavalry and one thousand eunuchs. These poor devils are made here. The
+Kerdies or pagans upon the neighbouring mountains are called Matacum.
+These mountains are said to be of considerable altitude.
+
+According to Omer Wardi there is no difficulty in going to Muzgu, south
+of Mandara, and seat of the nearest pagans.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_Route to Mandara from Kuka: Second Route, Eastern._
+
+TERRITORY OF BORNOU.
+
+From Kuka, south-east, to
+
+Gornu, half a-day; a walled town, larger than Zinder.
+
+Gulum, three hours; small village. Here is a river.
+
+Yaidi, four hours; large walled town.
+
+Martai, four hours; large walled town.
+
+Ala, three hours; large walled town.
+
+Diwa, eight hours; large walled town, and residence of a sultan. Here is
+a river.
+
+Abagai, two hours; small village.
+
+Kuddaigai, one hour; small village.
+
+Sokoma, one hour; a large walled town.
+
+Millehai, two hours; a small place.
+
+Magarta, three hours; a large walled town.
+
+Dellehai, half a day; a large place.
+
+TERRITORY OF MANDARA.
+
+Muddebai, a long day; a large walled town.
+
+Dulo, eight hours; a large walled town.
+
+Mandara, three hours; a city about the size of Mourzuk.
+
+A day's journey from Mandara is sufficient to make a razzia of slaves.
+Muzgu, a great Kerdi country, is three days' journey from Mandara.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_Route from Kanou to Sakkatou._
+
+From Kanou:
+
+Dal, three hours; several small villages, where tobes are dyed with
+indigo.
+
+Zalia (Zaria?), a walled town, containing some 20 or 30,000 souls, and
+residence of a sultan; one long day.
+
+Lariski, half a day; a small village.
+
+Gaia, eight hours; a large walled town, and residence of a sultan.
+
+Kafela, half a day; small village.
+
+Yakuba, five hours; a walled town, and residence of a sultan.
+
+Mukubi, three hours; a small town on the banks of a river, in which
+there is always water.
+
+Keskaua, half a day; a small village.
+
+Gala, eight hours; a walled town, and about the size of Zinder;
+residence of a sultan.
+
+Kusuri, one long day; a large walled town, and residence of a sultan. A
+river, having always water.
+
+Lokoui, one long day; a walled town, and residence of a sultan. The same
+river as at Kusuri.
+
+Sakkatou, eight hours. This journey is reckoned at twenty days.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_Route from Taghajeet to Tuat._
+
+From Taghajeet, on the northern frontiers of Aheer, to
+
+Asaiou, two days and a-half; water-station. (All the following names are
+water-stations, i.e. places where there are wells.)
+
+Logsur, three days and a-half; well: and so of the rest.
+
+Gharghar, three days; tents of wandering tribes of Tuaricks, principally
+Hagar and Maghatah.
+
+Yaizair, two days. From Gharghar to Tuat there are tents of Tuaricks
+along all this line of route.
+
+Aifak, one day.
+
+Tamaghaset, one day.
+
+Outur (or Utur), one day.
+
+Tairagin, one day.
+
+Tailak, two days.
+
+Ennimgal, three days.
+
+Tahalai-Oget, two days.
+
+Tisnu, two days.
+
+Minneat, two days.
+
+Tagajert, two days.
+
+Amasir, two days.
+
+Arak, two days.
+
+Tajmut, two days.
+
+Tegtamin, one day.
+
+Agmamar, two days.
+
+Loknaig, two days.
+
+Shab, two days.
+
+Hash-Lugwaira, one day.
+
+El-Gesser (Tuat), one day and a-half; a village.
+
+Ain-Salah, an hour or two.
+
+On this route there are no oases, no date-palms; the road lies through
+valleys and over plains, lined with rocky mountains, like those of Asben
+or Aheer. There is no region of sand, but now and then the earth assumes
+a sandy character. My informant is a Tuatee, who has travelled this
+route; in fact, no other persons but people of Tuat, unless Hagars and
+Maghatah, can do so in safety. I could not succeed in extracting more
+information from my informant. He was a mere barbarian, and pestered me,
+whilst writing the route, with demands for all sorts of things. Though a
+resident of the town of Tuat, he was in grain and mould a thorough
+Targhee bandit.
+
+
+THE DIFFERENT RACES IN KUKA.
+
+_Resident or Strangers._
+
+ 1. Shua (the first Arab settlers in Bornou).
+ 2. Arabs Bengazi.
+ 3. Arabs Misratah.
+ 4. Arabs and Moors of Aujilah; Mujabri, from Jalu, or Aujilah.
+ 5. Fezzanee, or people from Fezzan.
+ 6. Walad Suleiman, now domiciled in Kuka, and Wady Gazalahs.
+ 7. People from Tripoli; a very few.
+ 8. People from the west; a very few.
+
+
+_Belonging to the Sheikh._
+
+ 9. Bornouee, bulk of the population.
+10. Kanembu, north-east from Kuka.
+11. Qaiyam, around Kuka, within a few hours.
+12. Manga, west from Kuka.
+13. Baddi, west from Kuka.
+14. Kairi-Kairi, west from Kuka.
+15. Lari, west from Kuka.
+16. Gizzem, south-west from Kuka, twenty days.
+17. Gizzerai, near Gizzem.
+18. Engezer, south of Kuka, ten days.
+19. Kaiauri, south of Kuka, five days.
+20. Babur, south of Kuka, nine days.
+21. Figa, south of Kuka, fifteen days.
+22. Margi, south of Kuka, seven days.
+23. Kobchi, south of Kuka, seven days.
+24. Mulgwai, south of Kuka, ten days.
+25. Massafai, south of Kuka, fifteen days.
+26. Bogwai, south of Kuka, twenty days.[26]
+27. Umbum, south of Kuka, thirty days.[26]
+28. Fali, south of Kuka, thirty-five days.[26]
+29. Umbai, south of Kuka, twenty days.[26]
+30. Koua, south of Kuka, twenty-five days.[26]
+31. Butai, south of Kuka, thirty days.[26]
+32. Maudraui, south of Kuka, eight days.
+33. Begarmi, east of Kuka, twenty days.
+34. People of Logun, near Begarmi.
+35. People from Wadaï; travellers.
+36. Sara, a province near Begarmi, with its own sultan.
+37. Fitri, a province belonging to Wadaï. There is water in the lake of
+    Fitri. People of this province do not come to Kuka.
+
+ [26] These countries seem very far south, and yet are said
+      to be under the Sheikh. More information is required on
+      this point.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_Route from Tuat to Wadnoun._
+
+From Tuat, or from Ain-Salah, in Tuat, westward, to
+
+Timmemoun, a small oasis of Tuat, two days; date-palms, &c.
+
+Ourara (Urara), five days; an oasis of Tuat larger than Timmemoun.
+Between Timmemoun, and Ourara, date-palms and wells in abundance.
+
+Taffilelt, five days. Between Ourara and Taffilelt there are a number of
+small villages.
+
+Dra, nine days. From Tuat to Dra, passing through Taffilelt, the route
+is lined with forests of palms, and water everywhere abounds. Dra
+consists of some one hundred towns and villages.
+
+Weled Omer Ben Melouk, a tribe of Arabs, numbering some five thousand
+souls, and having maharees and horses. The whole tribe are notorious
+bandits. From Dra to the tents of this tribe there are some seven days'
+journey.
+
+Barraber, twenty days, consisting entirely of plains, with here and
+there wells. This is another tribe of Arabs, wandering in tents, and all
+bandits. They chiefly mount horses; they have, however, camels and
+flocks; the tribe consists of about two thousands souls.
+
+Tajakant, ten days; plains, with the mountains of Sous on the north. A
+tribe of pacific Arabs (i.e. not bandits), numbering about three
+thousand, having both horses and camels.
+
+Shurfa, or Weled Seba, three days; a tribe of Arabs, all Shereefs,
+numbering some four or five thousand, having many horses and camels, and
+flocks, and a few bullocks. Not bandits.
+
+Sakia Hamara, two days; a large walled, town, situated in a wady under a
+mountain: Shereefs and Marabouteen.
+
+Wad-Noun, three days.
+
+
+_Ain-Salah._
+
+South, from this point of departure we come to the
+
+Walad Bahammu, at a distance of one day; an oasis of two villages; all
+Tuatee bandits, riding maharees, wearing turkadees, like Tuaricks. One
+of these villages is called Akobli, known in the route to Timbuctoo.
+
+North, from Ain Salah are mentioned the
+
+Shellah, a tribe living in tents, speaking a Berber dialect; two days.
+My informant knows no more.
+
+East, from this point there is only desert towards Ghadamez.
+
+West, from the same, Timmemoun and Ourara.
+
+The person who gave me this information is one Haj Mohammed Ben Welid, a
+native of Ghadamez. Besides the above route from Tuat to Wadnoun, I am
+indebted to him for the Niffee route. Six years ago he was at Niffee,
+and saw there a large American vessel trading for slaves and other
+merchandise.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_Route from Kanou to Niffee._
+
+From Kanou, south, to
+
+Baibaishi, five days; walled town, and residence of a sultan; about the
+size of Zinder, situate amongst rocks: a river of continually running
+water.
+
+Zaria, two days; an immense walled town, of the size of Kanu: residence
+of a powerful Fullanee sultan.
+
+A wady, with continually running water, one day; no town.
+
+Agoi, three days; a number of small villages, situate under rocks of
+great height: a stream of running water.
+
+Agoi-Karama, one day; a small village, under lofty heights of rocks: a
+stream of running water.
+
+Kurmi-Wia (i.e. Difficult River), one day; a running river amidst dense
+forests; no town: here are immense bamboos, like ghaseb.
+
+Jangaru, three days, amidst forests of trees; a walled town, not quite
+so large as Zinder, having a Governor or Kaïd. Here the route divides
+into two branches: one west, going to Raba, in seven days; and the other
+south, to Gorji, one day, on the banks of the Niger; and on to Niffee.
+
+Gorji, one day, on the Niger; a large town.
+
+Ladai, two days; a large walled town, and residence of a sultan, called
+Masaba.
+
+Lori, five days and a-half; a large city, capital of Niffee: the Sultan
+a Fellatah, called Sita.
+
+From Jangaru, west, Akarri, one day; and from Akarri, seven days; then
+we come to Raba, passing through all sorts of country.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_Route from Kanou to Sakkatou._
+
+From Kanou, west, to
+
+Tofa, one day; small village.
+
+Kalenya, one day; small walled town.
+
+Sabonkashi, four days; a large walled town, and residence of a sultan.
+
+Kanya, three days; small village.
+
+Sabokafi, four days; a small village.
+
+Kogo, two days; a large walled town, situate between rocks; a small
+stream.
+
+Rafi, one day; a large walled town.
+
+
+_Zanfeirra._
+
+Kauralamoda, two days; a large walled city, and residence of a sultan: a
+running stream in winter.
+
+Gora, one day; a small village.
+
+Bakura, three days; a large walled town, and residence of a sultan:
+streams in rainy season.
+
+From Rafi to Bakura extends the province or kingdom called Zanfeierra,
+of which the capital is Bakura.
+
+Between Bakura and the city of Sakkatou, which comes next in order,
+after two days, there are a number of small villages. Before you reach
+Sakkatou from Kanou, distant an hour, is a large river, in which is
+found water during the dry season.
+
+On this route there are not many forests, but there is a good deal of
+grain and other cultivation, with very few rocks. The road is usually
+good, only now and then infested by the freebooters from Maradee. This
+route is travelled in from ten to twelve and fifteen days,--not above
+fifteen,--with anything like good travelling.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_Route from Zinder to Gomel._
+
+From Zinder, west, to
+
+Gogai, one day; a cluster of villages.
+
+Zerma, one day; a small village.
+
+Azbenaua, one hour; a small village.
+
+Kamai, one hour; a small village.
+
+Gomel, two hours; a large place, and residence of a sultan.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The Kashalla has been so good as to give me the names of the towns and
+villages between Kuka and the capital of Begarmi; viz, from Kuka to
+Gornu, one day, but a very short day, three or four hours, and all the
+days following the same, three or four hours only.
+
+Gornu, one day.
+
+Mardai, one day.
+
+Yaidi, one day.
+
+Digua, one day.
+
+Mozzenai, one day.
+
+Sabala, one day.
+
+Gala, one day.
+
+Mabadai, one day.
+
+Wilgi, one day.
+
+Abadai, one day.
+
+Ngelbai, one day.
+
+Kutheri, one day.
+
+Logonai, one day.
+
+River Chari, one day.
+
+Mudba, or Dar-Begarmi, one day: first town of Begarmi. All the countries
+hereabouts are called Dar.
+
+After Mudba, in Begarmi:
+
+Gaui, one day.
+
+Joadai, one day.
+
+Derejebany, one day.
+
+Abuger, one day.
+
+Mazanya, one day; capital of Begarmi.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_Gurai to Sakkatou._
+
+From Gurai, westward, to
+
+Tungari, four hours; large place.
+
+Bonai, three hours; large place.
+
+Mashena, four hours; large place; residence of a Sultan.
+
+Alamaiko, eight hours; large place.
+
+Kakori, one long day; small place.
+
+Murma, one long day; large place.
+
+Muddechi, half a day; large place.
+
+Hadayi, half a day; large place.
+
+Jafun, one long day; large place.
+
+Kadawauwa, half a day; large place.
+
+Gunfia, half a day; small place.
+
+Gammoji, half a day; small place.
+
+Gaia, one long day; large place.
+
+Birni-Kanou, nine hours; a great country.
+
+Karaü, half a day; large place.
+
+Dangani, half a day; large place.
+
+Kafi, one long day; large place.
+
+Waunakka, half a day; large place.
+
+Katturkoshi, half a day; very large place; river and rocky hills.
+
+Gaukisa, half a day; large place; river.
+
+Kauramoda, eight hours; large place; river.
+
+Pianchi, two hours; a sultan; river; large place.
+
+Kassara, half a day; small place; rivers.
+
+Gora, half a day; large place; a sultan.
+
+Bakura, half a day; a sultan; a river; large place.
+
+Wangara, one hour; large place; river.
+
+Danshaura, half a day; large place; the same river from Katturkoshi to
+this place.
+
+Sakkatou, half a day.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_Route from Sakkatou, westwards, to_
+
+Wurmu, one hour; large place.
+
+Kaiua, half a day; large place.
+
+Kalmalu, half a day; large place.
+
+Maranu, half a day; large place.
+
+Kussub-Buni, one long day; large place.
+
+Chinaka, half a day; large place.
+
+Dawakari, half a day; large place.
+
+Laka, half a day; large place.
+
+Gauasu, half a day; large place.
+
+Bodinga, half a day; large place.
+
+Sifaua, half a day; large place.
+
+Danchadi, half a day; large place.
+
+Dinkadi, half a day; large place.
+
+Rekina, eight hours; large place.
+
+Chifaua, half a day; large place.
+
+Chuni, half a day; large place.
+
+Wababi, half a day; large place.
+
+Dankai, half a day; large place.
+
+Kajiji, half a day; large place.
+
+Chagari, half a day; large place.
+
+Salaha, half a day; large place.
+
+Zuondu, half a day; large place.
+
+Tamboel, half a day; large place.
+
+Kallamfaina, half a day: large place.
+
+Saiyinna, half a day; large place.
+
+These half days are about five hours. All that I could learn of this
+route is, that it goes westwards. The Fellatah tells me there is a good
+road from Sakkatou to Timbuctou, on which caravans are always going in
+great numbers.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_Route from Kanou to Adamaua._
+
+From Kanou, south, to
+
+G.[27] Akwa, half a day, i.e. equal to about three or four hours.
+
+G. Del, half a day.
+
+S. Garwai, half a day.
+
+S. Tabti, half a day.
+
+G. Sabongari, half a day.
+
+G. Waram, half a day.
+
+G. Zarranda, half a day.
+
+G. Garu, capital of Boushi; name of the sultan Yokaba; half a day.
+
+S. Kaddara, half a day.
+
+S. Mankaiama, half a day.
+
+S. Yanyam, half a day.
+
+G. Serken Kuddu, half a day.
+
+G. Jab Jab, half a day.
+
+G. Bumanda, half a day.
+
+G. Jennowai, half a day.
+
+G. Kadduna, half a day.
+
+G. Binnoi, half a day.
+
+Zungwan-dunia, half a day; resting-place; not a town.
+
+Zungwan-Kano, half a day; resting-place.
+
+Zungwan-Mageria, half a day; resting-place.
+
+Chikaji, half a day; resting-place.
+
+S. Akam, half a day.
+
+Yungwan-Bauna, half a day; resting-place; no town.
+
+S. Gangomai, half a day.
+
+Kogimagurji, half a day; resting-place.
+
+Koginbaba, half a day; resting-place.
+
+G. Rumji, half a day.
+
+G. Kwancha, half a day; river. Here begins Adamaua.
+
+G. Laro, half a day; river.
+
+G. Chamba, half a day; river.
+
+G. Turwa, half a day; river.
+
+G. Gurrin, half a day; river.
+
+G. Maiyabatta, half a day; river.
+
+G. Yola, half a day; river; the capital of the territories of Adamaua;
+residence of the sultan, called Mohammed Lauel.
+
+The route is reckoned seventeen days from Kanou to Kwancha, and three
+days from Kwancha to Yola.
+
+ [27] G, large place, or town; S, small place, village. Dictated
+      by the Fellatah horse-dealer, Nammadina.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_Route from Sakkatou to Kabi, S.W._
+
+Silami, 5 hours; large place.
+
+Quaido, 5 hours; large place.
+
+Ugi, one hour; a very considerable town.
+
+Argungu, 5 hours; large place.
+
+Gullema, 5 hours; large place.
+
+Sena, 5 hours; large place.
+
+Birni Kabi: large place.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_Names of Places about Sakkatou, westwards._
+
+Jeka, half a day.
+
+Alieru, 3 hours.
+
+Maddadi, 4 hours.
+
+Margai, 4 hours.
+
+Magagin Kada, 2 hours.
+
+Gommu-gommu, 4 hours.
+
+Binji, 2 hours.
+
+Kandai, 2 hours.
+
+Silami, half a day.
+
+Yabo, 5 hours.
+
+Dundaai, half a day.
+
+Quallai, 3 hours.
+
+Dagga, one long day.
+
+Indaba, half a day.
+
+Assara, one long day.
+
+Zaia, one long day.
+
+Manni, half a day.
+
+Durgalai, 2 hours.
+
+Killarai, 2 hours.
+
+Fadaita, half a day.
+
+Kotuturu, half a day.
+
+Tofa, half a day.
+
+Gidan Majibta, 2 hours.
+
+Maikujaira, half a day.
+
+Kundus, 1 ½ hours.
+
+Quaquara, 2 hours.
+
+These are all considerable towns and villages. As to their relative
+position, I have merely written down how distant one is from the
+other.
+
+The following is a list which I have obtained of the Tibboo nations (or
+tribes):--
+
+ 1. Etteri, two days north of Kuka or Bornou.
+ 2. Gunda, seven days north from Bornou.
+ 3. Arinda, one day from Gunda.
+ 4. Yurimma, two days from Gunda.
+ 5. Wandala, three days east from Yurimma.
+ 6. Gaidua, four days east from Wandala.
+ 7. Mussaui, seven days east from Wandala.
+ 8. Sakkarta, seven days east from Wandala.
+ 9. Madema, two days east from Sakkarta (country of Kanum).
+10. Choiokkera, four days east from Madema.
+11. Tumbela, two days north from Gunda.
+12. Masella, eleven days north from Bornou (a country of dates).
+13. El-Wudda, one day from Marsella.
+14. Dummeya, thirty days east of Bornou (in Borgu).
+15. Zuaeda, the Tibesti people.
+16. Tamara, country of Bilma, &c.
+17. Tauwia, two days north of Bilma.
+18. Etmada, one day north from Bilma.
+19. Addubocha, fifteen days east of Bilma.
+20. Fuktua, one day east from Addubocha.
+21. Abuya, two days north from Fuktua.
+22. Belguda, eight days east of Bilma.
+23. Nuazma, three days east of Belguda.
+24. Karrai, three days east of Kameru, near the Chada.
+
+
+
+THE END.
+
+
+
+LONDON: PRINTED BY G. BARCLAY, CASTLE ST. LEICESTER SQ.
+
+
+
+
+
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diff --git a/18544-0.zip b/18544-0.zip
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Narrative of a Mission to Central Africa
+Performed in the Years 1850-51, Volume 2, by James Richardson
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Narrative of a Mission to Central Africa Performed in the Years 1850-51, Volume 2
+       Under the Orders and at the Expense of Her Majesty's Government
+
+Author: James Richardson
+
+Release Date: June 9, 2006 [EBook #18544]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MISSION TO CENTRAL AFRICA ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Carlo Traverso, Annika Feilbach and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This
+file was produced from images generously made available
+by the Biblioth�que nationale de France (BnF/Gallica) at
+http://gallica.bnf.fr)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Transcriber's note:
+This text contains the unicode characters a, a, e and o in a few
+places. If any of these characters do not display for you properly,
+please see the Latin-1 text version for a transcription.]
+
+
+
+
+
+NARRATIVE OF A MISSION TO CENTRAL AFRICA
+PERFORMED IN THE YEARS 1850-51,
+
+UNDER THE ORDERS AND AT THE EXPENSE OF HER MAJESTY'S GOVERNMENT.
+
+
+BY THE LATE JAMES RICHARDSON,
+AUTHOR OF "TRAVELS IN THE GREAT DESERT OF SAHARA."
+
+
+IN TWO VOLUMES.
+
+VOL. II.
+
+LONDON:
+CHAPMAN AND HALL, 193 PICADILLY.
+
+MDCCCLIII.
+
+
+
+LONDON:
+Printed by G. Barclay, Castle St. Leicester Sq.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+Description of Tintalous and its Environs--Palace and
+Huts--Bedsteads--Kailouee Race--Unhandsome Conduct of Mr.
+Gagliuffi--Proposed Journey to Aghadez--Dr. Barth starts--An obstinate
+Bullock--Present extraordinary--State of Zinder--Affability of the
+Sultan--Power of Charms--Scorpions--Dialogue with a Gh�tee--Splendid
+Meteors--Visit from En-Noor--Intrigues of the Fellatahs--A Sultan loaded
+with Presents--Talk of departing for Zinder--State of the Bornou
+Road--Division of a Bullock--Bottle of Rum stolen--More Visits from the
+Sultan--A Musical Entertainment--Curious Etymological Discussions--A
+wonderful Prophetess--Secret Societies--Magicians--The Evil
+Eye--Morality of Soudan--Magnificent Meteor--Stories of the Sfaxee.
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+Muslim want of Curiosity--Gossip on Meteors--A Family Broil--Rationale
+of Wife-beating--Abominable Dances--Evil Communications--Dr.
+Overweg--Kailouee Vocabulary--Windy Day--Account of Wada�--Madame
+En-Noor--Profits of Commerce--The letter _Ghain_--Fellatah
+Language--Introduction of Islamism--Desert Routes--Trade in Agate
+Stones--A lively Patient--The Eed--A Visit _en masse_--Arrival of the
+Boat--Butchers--Exchange of Visits with the Sultan--Diet--A Shereef--A
+delicate Request--Information on Maradee--Tesaoua--Itinerant
+Schoolmasters--En-Noor's Territory in Damerghou--Unpleasant
+Communication--Amulets--The Foundation of a City in the
+Desert--En-Noor's Political Pretensions.
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+News from Barth--Camels restored--Expensive Journey--Proposed Migration
+of Males--Supply of Slaves, whence--A new Well--Pagans and
+Christians--Tibboo Manners--The great Gong--When is a Tibboo
+hungry?--Hunger-belt--Queen of England in the Sahara--The Shanbah--A
+hasty Marriage--Sa�d's new Wife--Wild Cauliflowers--Tolerance of the
+Kailouees--Men go to fetch Salt from Bilma--Approach of Dr.
+Barth--Lion's Mouth--Tibboos and Kailouees--Mysteries of
+Tintalous--Fewness of Men in Aheer--Trees preserved in the
+Valley--Bright Stars--Method of Salutation--Purposed Stars--Kailouee
+Character--Champagne at Tintalous--The Wells.
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+Dr. Barth's Journey to Aghadez--Description of the
+Route--Tiggedah--Luxuriant Scenery of Asadah--Plain of Tarist--Beautiful
+Valley--Buddeh--Small Caravan--Aghadez--its Inhabitants--their
+Occupation--The great Koku, or Sultan--Asbenouee Revolutions--Election
+of a Prince--Interview--Ceremony of Investiture--Razzia--Intricate
+Political System--Account of Aghadez--Mosque--Environs--Women--Tribes
+of Asben--The Targhee Family--Population of the Gh�t
+Districts--of Aheer--The Oulimad and Tanelkums--Tribe of
+Janet--Haghar--Sagamaram--Maghatah--Extent of Aheer--Connexion
+with the Black Countries--Mechanism of Society in
+Aheer--Chieftains--Tax-gathering--Food of the
+Kailouees--Maharees--Amusements--Natural Features of
+Asben--Vegetation--Cultivation--Manufactures--Bags for Charms.
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+Projected Departure for Damerghou--False Start--Picturesque
+Caravan--Sultan's Views of White Skins--My Birthday--The Sultan fights
+his Battles over again--His Opinion of Women--Bragging--The Razzia on
+the Fadeea--Political News in the Desert--Cold Weather--Continue our
+Journey--Bornouese Fighis--Tin-Tagannu--Trap for a Lion--Mousa's
+Camels--A further Delay--Jackals and the Fire--Language of
+Signs--Tintalousian Coquettes--Departure of the Zinder Caravan--Natural
+Features--Languages--The Kilgris--Killing Lice--The Razzia to the
+North--Present of a Draught-board--Pagan Nations--Favourable Reports.
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+Medicine for Bad Eyes--A summary Proceeding--News from the
+Salt-Caravan--Towns and Villages of Tesaoua--Earthquakes--Presents for
+the Sultan of Maradee--Yusuf's Insolence--English Money in Aheer--A
+Razzia on the Holy City--Bornouese Studies--Gipsies of Soudan--En-Noor
+and the Marabouts--Ghaseb--State of the Weather--Calculations for the
+Future--Senna--Relations of Man and Wife in Aheer--En-Noor in his
+Family--Gouber and Maradee--Beer-drinking--Study of the Sau--Shara--The
+Oulimad--Lions--Translating Jokes--Digging a Well--Projects.
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+Razzia on the Fadeea--Haussa--Names of Places--Ant-track--Circular
+Letter from Mourzuk--Vast Rock--Mustapha Bey's Letter--Effects of
+Water--Butterflies--Aspect of the Country--A Slave advanced
+to Honour--Shonshona--Herbage--Birds--Appearance of the
+Salt-Caravan--Colours of Dawn--Bilma Salt--Mode of Barter--Pass the Rock
+of Mari--Granite--Indigo Plant--Presents at Stamboul--The Sultan begs
+again--Old Men's Importunities--Baghzem--Curiosities of the
+Route--People of Damerghou--Temporary Village of Women--Country begins
+to open--Barter Transaction with Lady En-Noor.
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+We continue our Journey--Huntsmen--Gum on the Tholukhs--The
+Salt-Caravan--A Bunch of Gum--Games among the
+Slaves--Baghzem--Trees--Palm of Pharaoh--Deserted Villages--Birds'
+Nests--Wife of En-Noor--Unan--Lizards--Bad News--Christmas
+day in Africa--Christmas-boxes--Begging Tuaricks
+again--Bargot--Musicians--Speculations--Tribes at War--Parasitical
+Plant--Importance of Salt--Animals--Agalgo--Force of the Caravan--Beat
+of Drum--Approach the Hamadah--Giraffes--Poisoned Arrows--Ear of
+Ghaseb--Soudan and Bornou Roads.
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+Enter the Hamadah--Home of the Giraffe--Water of
+Chidugulah--Turtles--Cool Wind--Jerboahs--Centre of the
+Sahara--New-year's Eve--Cold Weather--Birds of Prey--Soudan
+Date--Burs--Animals on the Plateau--Young Ostrich--The
+Tholukh-tree--Severe Cold--Eleven Ostriches--Termination of the
+Desert--Inasamet--The Tagama--Purchases--People begin to
+improve--Fruit of the Lote-tree--Village roofed with Skins--Vast
+Plain--Horses--Approach Damerghou--Village of Gumrek--Rough
+Customers--Wars of the Kilgris and Kailouees--A small
+Lake--Guinea-hens--Vultures--Party of Huntsmen.
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+My Barracan--Spontaneous Civility on arrival in Damerghou--Ghaseb
+Stubble--Cactus--Water-Melons--Party of Tuaricks--Boban Birni--Huts of
+Damerghou--Tagelel--Women of the Village--Population of the
+Country--Complaisant Ladies--Festivities--Aquatic Birds--Dancing--A
+Flatterer--A Slave Family--A new Reason for Wife-beating--Hazna
+Dancers--Damerghou, common ground--Purchase of Ghaseb--Dethroned
+Sultan--Yusuf--Mohammed Tunisee--Ophthalmia--Part with Barth and
+Overweg--Presents to Servants--Sheikh of Fumta--Yakobah
+Slave--Applications for Medicine--Boban Birni--Forest--At length enter
+Bornou ground--Daazzenai--Tuarick Respectabilities--Detachment of the
+Salt-Caravan.
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+March for Zinder--Enter the City--Reception--Delighted to escape from
+the Tuaricks--Letters from Kuka--Hospitable Treatment--Presents for the
+Sarkee and others--Visit the Shereef--His Duties--Audience of the
+Sarkee--Servility--Double-skulled Slave--Powder and Shot--Portrait of
+the Sultan--Commission from Kuka--European Clothes--Family of
+En-Noor--Tour of the Town--Scavengers--List of Sultans of Central
+Africa--Ancient Haussa--The Market--Money--Conversation
+with the Shereef--The Sultan at Home--Mixed Race of
+Zinder--Statistics--Personages of the Court.
+
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+Presents from Officials--Mode of treating Camels--Prices--Cowrie
+Money--Shereef Interpreter--Visits--Harem--Houses--Grand
+Vizier--Picturesque Dances--Tuaricks at Zinder--Kohlans and
+Fullans--Province of Zinder--Account of its Rebellions--Trees--Details
+on the Slave-trade--Prices--Mode of obtaining Slaves--Abject
+Respect of the Sultan--Visits--Interview with the Sarkee--The
+Presence--Curious Mode of administering Justice--Barbarous
+Punishments--Hy�nas--Gurasu--Fighis--Place of Execution--Tree of
+Death--Hy�na Dens--Dancing.
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+
+Brother of the Sultan--Trade of Zinder--Prices--The Sarkee drinks
+Rum--Five Cities--Houses of Zinder--Female Toilette--Another Tree of
+Death--Paganism--Severity of the Sultan--Lemons--Barth and
+Overweg--Fire--Brother of the Sarkee--Daura--Shonshona--Lousou--Slaves
+in Irons--Reported Razzia--Talk with the Shereef--Humble
+Manners--Applications for Medicines--Towns and Villages of Zinder--The
+great Drum--Dyers--Tuarick Visits--Rationale of Razzias--Slaves--"Like
+Prince like People"--French in Algiers--The Market--Old Slave--Infamous
+System--Plan of the great Razzia.
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV.
+
+Family of the Sarkee--Converted Jew--Hard Dealings--How to get rid of a
+Wife--Route to Tesaoua--Influence of Slavery--Prices of Aloes and
+Silk--Medicine for a Merchant--Departure of the Sarkee for the
+Razzia--Encampment--Mode of Fighting--Produce of Razzias--Story of the
+Tibboo--Sheikh Lousou--Gumel--Superstitions--Matting--Visit
+of Ladies--The Jew--Incendiaries--Hazna--Legend of Zinder
+Well--Kohul--Cousin of the Sheikh--Female Sheikh--State of the
+Country--Salutations.
+
+
+CHAPTER XV.
+
+Political News--Animals of Zinder--Sleepy City--District
+of Korgum--Razzias--Family of Sheikh Omer of
+Bornou--Brothers--Sons--Sisters--Daughters--Viziers--Kashallas--Power of
+the Sheikh--A Cheating Prince--Old Slave--Fetishism--Devil in a
+Tuarick's head--Kibabs--Fires--A Prophecy--Another Version of the
+Razzia--Correspondence between Korgum and Zinder.
+
+
+CHAPTER XVI.
+
+Sheikh of Bornou--Arab Women--News from the Razzia--Procession of
+newly-caught Slaves--Entrance of the Sarkee--Chained Slaves--My Servant
+at the Razzia--Audacity of Bornou Slaves--Korgum--Konchai--Product of
+the Razzia--Ghadamsee Merchants--Slave-trade--Incident at Korgum--State
+of Kanou--A Hue and Cry--Black Character--Vegetables at
+Zinder--Minstrel--Medi--Gardens--Ladies--Fanaticism--Americans at
+Niffee--Rich People--Tuaricks Sick--Morals--Dread of the
+Sarkee--Fashions.
+
+
+CHAPTER XVII.
+
+News from Tesaoua--Razzia on Sakkatou--Laziness in Zinder--The
+Hajah--Herds of Cattle--More Tuarick Patients--Gardens--My
+Luggage--Adieu to the Sarkee--Present from his Highness--Start from
+Zinder--Country--Birds--Overtake the Kashalla--Slaves for
+Kanou--Continue the Journey--People of Deddegi--Their Timidity--Horse
+Exercise--Cotton--Strange Birds--Occupation of Men and Women--State of
+African Society--Islamism and Paganism--Character of the Kashalla--A
+Dogberry--Guddemuni--Cultivation--Beggars--Dancing Maidens.
+
+
+CHAPTER XVIII.
+
+A Village plundered--Shaidega--Animals--Our Biscuit--Villages _en
+route_--Minyo--Respect for Learning--Monotony of the Country--A
+Wedding--Palsy--Slave-agents--Kal, Kal--Birni Gamatak--Tuaricks on the
+Plain--Palms--Sight the Town of Gurai--Bare Country--Bearings of various
+Places--Province of Minyo--Visit the Sultan--Audience-room--Fine
+Costume--A Scene of Barbaric Splendour--Trade--Estimate of Wealth--How
+to amuse a Prince--Small Present--The Oars carried by Men--Town of
+Gurai--Fortifications.
+
+
+CHAPTER XIX.
+
+Fezzanee Traders--Sultan in want of Medicine--The Stud--Letters--Yusuf's
+Conduct--Architecture--Fragment of the History of Minyo--Politics
+of Zinder--Bornouese Fish--Visits--Two Routes--Dancing by
+Moonlight--Richness--Fires--Information on Boushi and Adamaua--The
+Yamyam--Liver Complaints--A Girl's Game--Desert Country--Gift Camel--Few
+Living Creatures--Village of Gusumana--Environs--The Doom
+Fruit--Brothers of Sultan of Sakkatou--Stupid Kadi--Showing off--Hot
+Weather--[Final Note--Death of Mr. Richardson.]
+
+
+APPENDIX.
+
+
+
+
+
+NARRATIVE OF A MISSION TO CENTRAL AFRICA
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+Description of Tintalous and its Environs--Palace and
+Huts--Bedsteads--Kailouee Race--Unhandsome Conduct of Mr.
+Gagliuffi--Proposed Journey to Aghadez--Dr. Barth starts--An obstinate
+Bullock--Present extraordinary--State of Zinder--Affability of the
+Sultan--Power of Charms--Scorpions--Dialogue with a Gh�tee--Splendid
+Meteors--Visit from En-Noor--Intrigues of the Fellatahs--A Sultan loaded
+with Presents--Talk of departing for Zinder--State of the Bornou
+Road--Division of a Bullock--Bottle of Rum stolen--More Visits from the
+Sultan--A Musical Entertainment--Curious Etymological Discussions--A
+wonderful Prophetess--Secret Societies--Magicians--The Evil
+Eye--Morality of Soudan--Magnificent Meteor--Stories of the Sfaxee.
+
+
+I begin at length to consider myself as it were at home in this singular
+country of Aheer--without, however, experiencing any desire to dally
+here longer than the force of circumstances absolutely requires. It must
+be confessed, as I have already hinted, that the town of Tintalous,[1]
+in front of which we are encamped, does not at all answer the idea which
+our too active imagination had formed. Yet it is a singular place. It is
+situated on rocky ground, at the bend of a broad valley, which in the
+rainy season becomes often-times the bed of a temporary river. Here and
+there around it are scattered numerous trees, many of considerable size,
+giving the surface of the valley something of a park-like appearance.
+The herbage is not rich, but it is ornamental, and refreshes the eye in
+contrast with the black, naked rocks, which rise on all hands to the
+height often of two or three thousand feet. To the east, it is true, the
+country is a little open; and between the mountains run in numerous
+white sandy wadys, sprinkled with fresh green plants, or shaded by
+various species of mimosa and other spreading trees, under which the
+shepherds and herdsmen find shelter from the sun.
+
+  [1] Tintalous is 40 short and 30 long days from Gh�t, N.N.E.;
+      60 short and 50 long from Mourzuk, N.E.; 20 short, 15 long,
+      from Zinder or Damerghou, S.S.W.; 7 long, 10 or 12 short,
+      from Bilma, E.; 38 to 45 days from Tuat, N.W. (_vi�_
+      Taghajeet). Maharees, of course, trot and gallop in half
+      the time. These are native statements.
+
+The principal feature of Tintalous itself is what may be called the
+palace of En-Noor. It is, indeed, one, compared with the huts and stone
+hovels amidst which it is placed. The materials are stone plastered with
+mud, and also the wood of the mimosa tree. The form is an oblong square,
+one story high, with an interior courtyard, and various appendages and
+huts around on the outside. There is another house, and also a mosque
+built in the same style, but much smaller. Of the rest of the
+habitations, a few are stone sheds, but the greater part are huts made
+of the dry stalks of the fine herb called bou rekabah, in the form of a
+conical English haystack, and are very snug, impervious alike to rain
+and sun. There are not more than one hundred and fifty of these huts and
+sheds, scattered over a considerable space, without any order; some are
+placed two or three together within a small enclosure, which serves as a
+court or yard, in which visitors are received and cooking is carried on.
+There is another little village at a stone's-throw north. The
+inhabitants of these two villages consist entirely of the slaves and
+dependants of En-Noor.
+
+All around Tintalous, within an hour or two hours' ride, there are
+villages or towns of precisely the same description, more or less
+numerously peopled. At Seloufeeat and Tintaghoda, however, we saw more
+houses built of stone and mud. This may be accounted for by the fact
+that the inhabitants are not nearly so migratory as those of Tintalous,
+who often follow in a body the motions of their master, so that he is
+ever surrounded by an imposing household.
+
+I must not omit mentioning an important article of furniture which is to
+be observed in all the houses of Aheer--namely, the bedstead. Whilst
+most of the inhabitants of Fezzan lie upon skins or mats upon the
+ground, the Kailouees have a nice light palm-branch bedstead, which
+enables them to escape the damp of the rainy season, and the attack of
+dangerous insects and reptiles like the scorpion and the l�fa.
+
+I shall hereafter make a few observations on the tribes inhabiting
+Aheer. Here I will note that they are all called Targhee, that is
+Tuarick, by the traders of the north; and that the predominant race is
+the Kailouee. To me the latter seems to be a mixture of the Berbers, or
+supposed aborigines of the northern coast, with all the tribes and
+varieties of tribes of the interior of Africa. This may account for
+their having less pride and stiffness than the Tuaricks of Gh�t, who are
+purer Berbers; as well as for their disposition to thieving and petty
+larceny, of which I have recently been obliged to give some examples.
+The pure Berbers, likewise, are much less sensual than their bastard
+descendants, who seem, indeed, to have no idea of pleasure but in its
+grossest shape.
+
+The Kailouees are, for the most part, tall and active, little encumbered
+by bulky bodies; some having both complexion and features nearly
+European. At any rate there are many as fair-looking as the Arabs
+generally, whilst others are quite negro in colour. The women are
+smaller and stouter; some are fattened like the Mooresses of the coast,
+and attain to an enormous degree of _embon-point_. They are not
+ill-looking, but offer nothing remarkable in their forms.
+
+I have already set down many particulars of manners, and shall proceed
+to do so in the same disjointed way. At a future time all these traits
+must be collected to form one picture.[2] For the present I am anxious
+about the future progress of the Mission, and impatient, at any rate, to
+hear some news of our advance. We cannot do all the things we would. Our
+position is almost that of prisoners. We must depend entirely on the
+caprice of En-Noor, who, however, may already have laid out his plans
+distinctly, though he does not choose to communicate them to us.
+
+  [2] Perhaps the note-books of Mr. Richardson, in which facts
+      are set down fresh and distinct just as they presented
+      themselves, will be found to be more interesting than an
+      elaborate narrative. At any rate it has seemed better not
+      to attempt to do what was left undone in this matter.--ED.
+
+_Oct. 2d._--We have been lately discussing the practicability of going
+to Sakkatou, on a visit to the Sultan Bello; and this morning I looked
+over, for the first time, some "letters of credit" which Mr. Gagliuffi,
+our plausible consul at Mourzuk, had given me. I found that the amount
+offered for the use of the expedition in Kanou does not exceed a hundred
+and fifty reals of Fezzan, or about twenty pounds sterling, and that the
+agent is expressly requested not to advance any more! This extraordinary
+document induced me to look further, and it soon appeared that the
+documents on which I relied so much were mere delusions. The wording of
+the Arabic letter to Bornou was ambiguous; but in as far as I and my
+interpreter could make it out, Haj Bashaw, to whom it is addressed, was
+requested, if he had any money of Mr. Gagliuffi's in hand, to give me _a
+little_! I really did not expect that a person in whom I had placed so
+much confidence would play me this trick. But it seems that Levantines
+are and will be Levantines to the end of time. I have written to
+Government, complaining of this unworthy conduct.
+
+_3d._--Dr. Barth is about to take advantage of the delay necessarily
+incurred at Tintalous to visit Aghadez, the real capital of Aheer, to
+which the new Sultan has lately been led, and where his investiture will
+shortly be celebrated. This journey will extend our knowledge of this
+singular Saharan country, and may also be of advantage in procuring the
+signature of the Sultan to a treaty of commerce.
+
+_4th._--Dr. Barth started this morning in company with Hamma, Waled Ocht
+En-Noor (son of the sister of En-Noor). The departure took place in
+presence of the Sultan himself, who had come to take tea with me. The
+caravan was at first composed of bullocks, the camels being a little in
+advance on the road. Our friend the Doctor started astride on one of
+these animals, which are a little difficult to manage, especially when
+they have been out at grass for some time. Indeed, in the first place,
+it is no easy matter to catch them from amongst the herds; then it is
+hard to load them; and then, though not often, they refuse to proceed.
+On this occasion a powerful brute proved absolutely unmanageable.
+En-Noor, seeing its obstinacy, exclaimed that he gave it to me to kill
+and eat. He afterwards, however, modified his gift, and said that the
+bullock was also to be distributed amongst the Arabs of the caravans now
+in Tintalous; and that we were to give a turban as a present to the
+herdsman. I was told that, in the meantime, representation had been made
+to him, to the effect that it was unfair to distinguish the Christians
+in this manner. Soon after the animal was given it ran away, and no one
+could catch it.
+
+Well, the bullock caravan went off in good style; and Sultan En-Noor
+remained taking his tea and eating English pickles and marmalade with
+me. He drank the tea and ate the other delicacies with evident pleasure,
+not being afraid, like the greater part of his subjects, to eat the food
+of Christians. Possession of power seems to have one good effect--the
+destruction of prejudice; pity that it sometimes goes further and
+destroys belief. En-Noor told us that the Sultan of Asoudee had gone out
+on a razzia to the west. We are obliged to hope that it will be
+successful, as otherwise our affairs will most materially suffer. We
+talked also of the state of Zinder, which is represented to be a walled
+town, with seven gates built amidst and around some huge rocks. The
+governor, Ibrahim, keeps fifty drummers at work every night, but whether
+with a purpose superstitious or political I do not know.
+
+En-Noor admired much the portraits of the personages who figure in the
+accounts of the former expedition to this part of the world,
+particularly that of Clapperton. He had also a wonderful story to tell
+of this traveller's magic. He said that Abdallah (Clapperton's
+travelling name) had learned from his books the site of his (En-Noor's)
+father's house, that near it was a gold mine, and that he had intended
+to come and give intelligence of this treasure. "See!" exclaimed the
+Sultan, "what wonderful things are written in the books of the
+Christians!"
+
+My young fighi (or writer of charms) tells me, as a secret, that he
+cannot write a talisman for himself, but must ask another of the
+brotherhood to do this for him. Neither in this place can physicians
+heal themselves. This civil youth made me a present of a piece of his
+workmanship to-day, observing, "There is great profit in its power; it
+will preserve you from the cut of the sword and the firing of the gun."
+I pray not to have occasion to test its efficacy, but hope it may also
+serve as a protection from the bite of scorpions, which are so plentiful
+about here, and are said, at this season, to jump like grasshoppers.
+According to the people of Tintalous there are three species of them,
+each distinguished by a different colour--black, red, and yellow.
+Despite the talk of these disgusting reptiles I went in the evening to
+see the wells which supply Tintalous with water. They are nothing more
+than holes scooped out of the sand in the bed of the wady, and supplied
+by _ma-el-matr_, "rain-water," which collects only a few feet under the
+sand, and passes through no minerals.
+
+I afterwards proceeded to the encampment of the slave caravan, which is
+going in a few days to Gh�t. A native of that place--the chief,
+indeed--was exceedingly rude at our first rencounter, and the following
+dialogue took place:--
+
+_The Gh�tee._ Where are you going?
+
+_Myself._ I am going to Sakkatou.
+
+_The Gh�tee._ What for?
+
+_Myself._ To see the Sultan, who is my friend.
+
+_The Gh�tee._ How do you know him?
+
+_Myself._ The English have known him for years past.
+
+_The Gh�tee._ Ah!
+
+_Myself._ Yes.
+
+_The Gh�tee._ Have you any dollars--large dollars? (making a large
+circle with his thumb and forefinger.)
+
+_Myself._ No: I don't carry money to Soudan, which is of no use to me.
+There I shall have wad�.
+
+_Gh�tee._ Eh! Eh! But cannot you give me a turban?
+
+_Myself._ No, I am not a merchant, I don't bring such things; go to the
+Arab merchants and buy.
+
+_Gh�tee._ Um! Um!
+
+_Myself._ Do you know Mohammed Kafa in Gh�t?
+
+_Gh�tee._ Oh, yes!
+
+_Myself._ He is my friend.
+
+_Gh�tee._ Allah!
+
+_Myself._ Yes; he sent me a fine dinner twice whilst I was in Gh�t.
+
+_Gh�tee._ Allah! Allah!
+
+_Myself._ Do you know Haj Ibrahim? He is my great friend.
+
+_Gh�tee._ Allah! Allah! (greatly surprised).
+
+_Myself._ Why, how is it that you do not know me, Yakob, as I have
+been in Gh�t many years before?
+
+At this some of the other people of the caravan cried out, "Yes, yes, we
+all know Yakob;" so that I left the rude slave-merchant quite
+crest-fallen. He evidently, at first, wished to assume the airs of a
+Haghar, and bully me out of a present.
+
+The caravan consisted of some thirty poor young women and children.
+There was also with them a small quantity of elephants' teeth.
+
+Now that the moon is absent and the nights are clear we have a most
+splendid view of the heavens, its stars and constellations. The number
+of meteors darting to and fro overhead is very great--nearly one a
+minute shoots along. Some are only a faint glimmer, and have but the
+existence of a moment, whilst others are very beautiful and last several
+seconds.
+
+_5th._--The weather is improving; the strong gusts of wind have ceased,
+and so has the rain. We have now calm and fine days with moderate heat.
+
+In the afternoon I received another visit from En-Noor, who came
+straight into my tent, like an old friend whom I had known for twenty
+years. He stopped with me at least an hour, drinking tea and smoking,
+chatting the while about his past history and present affairs. He
+reiterated again assurances of his friendship for the English, and his
+determination to remain the ally of the Queen of England! He referred to
+the time when the great Bello, sultan of Sakkatou, sent his ambassador
+to request him (En-Noor) and all his people to subject themselves to the
+Fellatahs. En-Noor gave him for answer, "I am under God, the servant of
+God, and shall not submit myself to you or to any one upon earth. My
+father, and grandfather, and great-grandfather, and all my ancestors,
+ruled here, and were the servants of God, and I shall follow in their
+steps." The Fellatahs then tried to seduce the people, but they all
+said, "We have one Sultan, that is En-Noor." All the other authorities
+of Aheer followed the example, and preserved their independence, the
+people everywhere arming themselves with whatever weapons they had in
+case a war should break out.
+
+After this narrative, En-Noor spoke again of the English, and said he
+should send a maharee for the Queen.
+
+I gave him a fancy ring of the value of threepence, with a mock diamond
+in it, which he immediately put on his finger with as much glee and
+pride as the gayest Parisian coquette. Yusuf and the Sfaxee, being
+present, swore it was _diamanti_; but I am quite sure the old Sheikh
+understood the compliment. I also gave him a pair of bellows, a basin,
+and a pint bottle with a little oil it; with all these things he was
+greatly delighted, continually admiring and trying the bellows. When he
+went out of the tent he himself carried all these articles away under
+his arm.
+
+With reference to our wish to start for Zinder, the Sultan says he will
+send immediately for the boat, that it may be ready by the time Dr.
+Barth returns from Aghadez, when he is determined himself to take that
+route. He seems now in the enjoyment of good health. I felt much
+satisfied with his visit. Certainly, when I reflect that in the northern
+frontier of Aheer we were pursued for several days, like monsters not
+fit to live, by armed bands, this appears to me extraordinary
+condescension on the part of En-Noor. I hope we shall part in a friendly
+manner. This worthy sovereign gives the present Sultan of Sakkatou, Ali
+Bello, the character of a miser, but says that his father was a man of
+liberality. He cannot exceed En-Noor himself in greediness.
+
+The bad state of the Bornou route is accounted for by the desire the
+Kailouees have to render it unsafe, so that they may have all the
+caravans come along their own route. The same thing is said of the
+Timbuctoo route from Soudan. The Haghar murder all who attempt to go
+from Soudan to Timbuctoo, in order that the caravans may pass Gh�t and
+Tuat. This is called the natural explanation of the bad character of
+these routes.
+
+_6th._--I continue to record the few characteristic incidents of my
+residence at Tintalous. Our bullock has been at last killed. We could
+not catch him, but shot him down. The carcase was divided between no
+less than twenty persons, and the meat proved to be pretty good. Of my
+share I made steaks, which I washed down with some tea and rum. This is
+the first time we have had fresh beef since leaving Tripoli. The event
+created an immense sensation throughout the whole town of Tintalous, for
+the slaughter of a bullock does not take place there every day.
+
+This morning I administered two ounces of Epsom salts to a good-natured
+Kailouee, who, although perfectly well, would persist in begging for
+medicine. These people are continually asking to be doctored when
+nothing ails them. En-Noor seems to have taken a fancy to our morning
+beverages, and has sent for tea and coffee. I am afraid he will become a
+regular customer. Yusuf carried off a bottle of rum from the tent in the
+evening, which occasioned a disturbance between the servants and myself.
+This worthy is not to be trusted with the care of any strong liquor. The
+little Hamadee was privy to the theft. In the course of the evening the
+_new moon_ was seen by seven creditable persons, so that in eight days
+more we shall have the Feast of the "Descent of the Koran from Heaven,"
+and four or five days after that we hope to start for Zinder.
+
+_7th._--This was a fine morning, with the thermometer at sunrise in the
+tent 70�; outside, 66�. The water has been so cooled during the night
+that my hands ached when I washed them. Later in the season it will be
+yet colder; and all reports tell us that in Kanou after the rains it is
+often very chilly.
+
+His highness the Sultan again was attracted by my tea and marmalade, and
+gave me a call. He desired to see once more the portrait of Clapperton,
+and told me that Abdallah had five women in Sakkatou, and had left
+behind him three children, all boys. The Sultan was excessively friendly
+in manner, which induced me to make him another little present of a ring
+set with paste, and a small pair of gilt scissors for one of his wives.
+He calls me his brother, and manifests increased anxiety to be friendly
+with the English. According to him, a short time since the Sheikh of
+El-Fadeea, who commanded the attack made on us at the frontier, came
+here; and, in consideration of a few presents and compliments, had
+promised to exert himself to procure the restoration of our lost or
+stolen camels. En-Noor also again talked about the boat. I am in great
+hopes that we shall part from him on good terms, and that he will be
+true to his protestations. There is generally a companion with the old
+gentleman on these visits. This time it was an aged Tanelkum, who
+married a sister of the Sheikh and has been settled many years in the
+country. We gave him more tea, and also a piece of white sugar, to carry
+home.
+
+This evening the Fezzan and Tripoli Arabs had a musical entertainment,
+accompanied with dancing, at which Madame En-Noor and several
+distinguished ladies of Tintalous assisted. It was the usual singing
+business, with Moorish hammering on tambourines. The dance was performed
+by men, mostly in imitation of the women, and was also of the usual
+inelegant and indelicate description. However, there was a little mixing
+of the derwish dances. The thing went off to the great satisfaction of
+the Kailouees, and was kept up till midnight.
+
+_8th._--I slept little after the villanous dancing and riot of the
+preceding night, and rose late. My occupation this day was completing my
+vocabulary of the Kailouee language, of which I expect to collect a
+thousand words. My interpreter sometimes gives very curious explanations
+when I work with him. The Arabic word which we translate "Alas!" coming
+under consideration, he observed: "There is no corresponding word in the
+languages of these countries. This word belongs to the Koran and the
+next world." He means, that the word has only a relation to the torment
+of the damned. It is curious that this Arabic term agrees with, or is
+like, our word _wail_ (Ar. _weel_), and is the term used by our
+translators of the New Testament in describing the torments of the lost,
+"Weeping and _wailing_" &c.
+
+Of the term "chaste," Yusuf observed, "There is no such expression in
+these languages; all the women are alike, and equally accessible when
+danger is absent." It is also true that the men place no bounds to their
+sensual appetites, and are restrained only by inability. It may be,
+however, that the more religious would have some scruples about
+intriguing with their neighbours' wives.
+
+When we came to the word "school" Yusuf pretended there was not such a
+word in Kailouee. He asked, "Where in Tintalous is there a school?" The
+question, unfortunately, is put with too much truth. The Kailouees
+hereabouts seem entirely to neglect education.
+
+I myself observe that the Arabic _booss_ answers exactly to the vulgar
+word in English for _kiss_.[3] The name of a raven is one of many
+remarkable examples of a word being chosen to imitate in sound some
+peculiarity of the thing signified. In this case, _kak_ irresistibly
+reminds one of the raven's croaking voice; which we describe by _caw_.
+_Kass_, scissors, is also an imitation of the sound produced by this
+instrument in cutting.
+
+  [3] A good many similarities of this kind, accidental or
+      otherwise, might be pointed out: _ydrub_ is "to drub;"
+      _kaab_ would be translated, in old English, "kibe;"
+      _ykattah_ is "to cut;" _kotta_, "a cat;" _bak_, "a bug;"
+      _stabl_, "a stable," &c. &c. I have noticed, also, some
+      similarities with French words e.g. _ykassar_,
+      "casser"--ED.
+
+In the evening the Sfaxee and Yusuf came to pay us a visit, and related
+divers sorts of wonders of this and other countries of Africa. The first
+matter concerned us. Eight days ago died in Tintalous an old witch, or
+prophetess, a negress, who foretold our arrival, and said to En-Noor, "A
+caravan of Englishmen is on the road from Tripoli, coming to you." This
+woman for many years was a foreteller of future events. The next thing
+we heard referred to the secret societies of Central Africa. Some of the
+chiefs of these societies have the power of killing with their eyes. One
+of these fellows is known to have gone to a merchant, in whose arms was
+sleeping a pretty female slave, and to have entered into conversation
+with him, asking him how he was, &c. In the meanwhile the wizard cast
+his eyes upon the pretty slave, and its heart withered. This power is
+accordingly much dreaded. If, however, any one perceive the incantation
+of the wizard, and say, "Begone, you son of a brach!" he immediately
+flees, like a dog with his tail between his legs.
+
+In parts of Bornou, also, extraordinary things sometimes happen. There
+are men in those places who have the power of assuming the shapes of
+wild animals. This they do mostly in the nights. Under the form of lions
+and leopards, they go to the tents of strangers, and endeavour to lure
+them forth by calling out their proper names with a perfect human voice.
+If any one is so imprudent as to obey summons and issue forth, he is at
+once devoured.
+
+The Sfaxee pledges his word of honour that there was a female slave a
+year ago in Mourzuk who killed five of her companions with her looks. On
+this a council was held by the merchants and great people of Mourzuk, to
+know what to do with her, and the decision come to was to send her back
+to Bornou; a happy decision for the poor slave! Lucky for her that she
+was not born in some parts of Europe, with her marvellous power. Even
+our friend Gagliuffi has not escaped these superstitions of the people
+among whom he lives. On my seeing his young turkeys for the first time,
+in very considerable numbers, I exclaimed, "What a host of young turkeys
+you have got!" On this he became quite alarmed, lest I had cast a malign
+look upon them, and ejaculated a counter-exclamation, "Oh, God bless
+them!"
+
+The Sfaxee and Yusuf do not speak very favourably of some parts of
+Soudan as to morality. In some districts of Begarmi, Yusuf says, a male
+takes the first female he meets with, no matter how near the
+relationship. All the women, in fact, are in common. We must receive his
+asseverations for what they are worth, on this subject in general, and
+on the developements into which he entered. According to him, in those
+regions where scarcely any other roof is required but the heavens, there
+is no other couch spread than the earth, and no one shuns, in any act of
+life, the eyes of his neighbours.
+
+Whilst these wonders of witches and tales of African lewdness were being
+related, a thing happened which none could disbelieve, none call in
+question. This was the appearance of an immense meteor in the sky,
+shooting over half the heavens, with a slight curve, from east to west.
+It had a tail like a comet, and around its head burnt a blue light of
+excessive brilliancy. This phenomenon appeared at a quarter to eight
+o'clock in the evening. I never saw anything like it before, and perhaps
+shall never again see its equal. It might have been visible two minutes.
+We all cried out with surprise at beholding it. We had our faces towards
+the south, and the course of the meteor was across the south, but not
+very high, at about the third of the circle of the heavens. Afterwards,
+every few minutes, small meteors were seen sporting about in the same
+direction, some in a straight line and others descending.
+
+_9th._--The wind of this fine cool morning prevented a visit from
+En-Noor. That he might not be disappointed, however, I sent him his
+customary tea; and amused myself by hearing the Sfaxee discourse of that
+constant subject of conversation, the attack of the Fadeea. According to
+him, on that occasion great fear was felt by all the caravan. Most of
+our servants had formed the resolution to abandon us. There were,
+however, some honourable exceptions; amongst the rest, Sa�d, the great
+mahadee, and another. Yusuf and Mohammed Tunisee proposed the plan, that
+we three, the Germans, and myself, should be mounted on maharees, and
+either conveyed back to Aisou or forward to Tintaghoda, during the
+night. Some of the Kailouees wavered, as well as the Tanelkums; but
+En-Noor (of our escort) always declared that he would never consent to
+our being given up. The next morning, two or three of the assailants
+were very bold, and came and called out in an authoritative tone, that
+we must be given up. It is curious that, in spite of all the force that
+was mustered against us, as soon as they saw that we were determined to
+resist them, they immediately began to parley. The Sfaxee is an immense
+talker, and great allowance must be made for what he says. In reality,
+we shall never be able to know the exact truth with respect to this
+affair. Dr. Overweg confesses that he was terribly alarmed as well he
+might be. For my part, I was more used to desert dangers, and slept all
+night. Dr. Barth very kindly refused to allow anybody to awaken me.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+Muslim want of Curiosity--Gossip on Meteors--A Family Broil--Rationale
+of Wife-beating--Abominable Dances--Evil Communications--Dr.
+Overweg--Kailouee Vocabulary--Windy Day--Account of Wada�--Madame
+En-Noor--Profits of Commerce--The letter _Ghain_--Fellatah
+Language--Introduction of Islamism--Desert Routes--Trade in Agate
+Stones--A lively Patient--The Eed--A Visit _en masse_--Arrival of the
+Boat--Butchers--Exchange of Visits with the Sultan--Diet--A Shereef--A
+delicate Request--Information on Maradee--Tesaoua--Itinerant
+Schoolmasters--En-Noor's Territory in Damerghou--Unpleasant
+Communication--Amulets--The Foundation of a City in the
+Desert--En-Noor's Political Pretensions.
+
+
+_Oct. 10th._--My garrulous friend the Sfaxee has gone off this morning,
+to bring his merchandise from Tintaghoda. The little fighi came, as
+usual, to see me. I showed him the Arabic New Testament. He read a few
+sentences, and then laid the book aside. I offered it to him, but he
+refused to accept the inestimable present. He represents the feelings of
+all the Muslims of these countries. They have not even any _curiosity_
+to know the contents of the Gospel, much less the inclination to study
+or appreciate them. They remain in a state of immovable, absolute
+indifference. Even the beautiful manner in which the Arabic letters are
+printed scarcely excites their surprise. En-Noor paid me his usual
+morning visit, drank tea, and ate pickles and marmalade. We asked him
+about meteors. He recollects the fall of many. One, he says, fell upon a
+house, and terrified the inhabitants, who came running to him.
+Afterwards they dug to the depth of a man, and found nothing, for it had
+buried itself deep in the earth. According to him, a great profusion of
+meteors denotes abundance of rain and herbage: but these phenomena exert
+also a sinister influence like comets, signifying the death of some
+great personage. I have no doubt that extraordinary meteors are very
+frequent in this part of the Sahara. En-Noor was very condescending, as
+usual: no change is observable in his manners.
+
+It turned out that he had come with the intention of speaking on a very
+delicate subject, but had refrained. We learned what it was afterwards.
+Dr. Overweg was sent for in the course of the day to attend upon one of
+En-Noor's wives, who had been frightfully beaten by his highness the
+previous evening. This domestic broil formed the common topic of
+conversation in Tintalous. Every scandal-monger has got hold of one
+version of the story. From what we could gather, the great man was lying
+down quietly, when suddenly, without any apparent provocation, he
+started up, took a large stick from the fire, one of its ends still
+burning, and with this terrific weapon belaboured his wife over the
+face, striking especially at the mouth, and cutting the upper lip in
+two. The poor woman is now very ill. No cause can be discovered for this
+piece of brutality. En-Noor has, they pretend, two wives here, and one
+on his estate at Damerghou; but he has only one son and three daughters.
+No larger family has this great man, with all his wealth and slaves,
+been able to bring up.
+
+Beating a wife is so common in these countries, that, only when the act
+is attended with features of unusual atrocity, as in this case of
+En-Noor, does it excite any attention. There cannot be a question of the
+fact, that our friend the Sultan is a great despot in every point of
+view. Perhaps in no other way could he maintain any authority amongst
+these semi-barbarian Kailouees. This, nevertheless, cannot excuse the
+atrocity of beating his wife with burning fagots. Some say that the
+exciting cause of his brutality was the eternal loquacity of the woman,
+of which his highness began to be afraid. This may be true, or be only
+an excuse invented by his courtiers. Supposing, however, the cause to
+have been her _infidelity_, let us examine what can be reasonably
+expected from these African women. They are not allowed scarcely to
+believe themselves to possess souls; they have no moral motives to be
+chaste, and certainly none of family and honour, being mostly slaves.
+Then the greater part of the young girls of consequence are married to
+old men, who are worn out by their sensual habits and indulgence with
+innumerable concubines. These young women are thus left, though married,
+like so many widows, without education or religious motives, and with
+all their passions alive, to the first opportunity which presents
+itself. We know what they do, and we cannot expect anything else from
+them.
+
+We have often dancing now of evenings. Yesterday, hearing the
+tambourines and other instruments strike up, I went to the house of the
+Sfaxee to see what was going on. They were dancing again their Mourzuk
+dances before a number of delighted Kailouees, male and female; amongst
+the rest Lady En-Noor herself. The whole beauty and appropriateness of
+this exercise amongst the Moors consists, as is well known, in gross
+imitations of natural acts. No further description or comment can I
+permit myself. I have often thought that the present dance must be an
+inheritance from very ancient times. There seems to be a part of our
+nature to which it is adapted. The performances at European Operas are
+often nearly as indelicate.
+
+Evil communications corrupt good manners. One of our servants has
+learned to act the Tuarick. He quarrelled with Yusuf, and on being told
+to go away replied, "Yes. I will go; but when you get up to Damerghou I
+will bring down the people upon these Christians, and they shall be
+eaten up!"
+
+_11th._--Zangheema, En-Noor's principal slave, came early this morning
+for Dr. Overweg, that he might attend the "beaten wife." My privileged
+friend went accordingly, and visited at the same time all the women of
+the household. They received him in a very friendly manner: some of them
+proved nearly white.
+
+_12th._--This day I finished my Kailouee vocabulary, which contains
+about a thousand words. I have never yet collected so large a quantity
+of materials of any of the languages of Africa. I carefully packed up my
+vocabulary for England, and got it ready, with other matters, to send by
+the first opportunity.
+
+Dr. Overweg has again visited the belaboured wife this morning, and
+reports her to be improving. The Sultan seems now to repent what he has
+done, and is endeavouring to obtain forgiveness by kind and courteous
+behaviour.
+
+There was a great deal of wind to day, but it did not come in puffs,
+endangering our tents. I sometimes wonder, however, how the flimsy huts
+of which part of Tintalous is composed are not swept away. They are made
+of the dry stalk of that excellent herb bou rekabah, called in Kailouee
+_afada_.
+
+_13th._--No news stirring to-day; nothing said of razzias; so much the
+better. We are living very quietly here, and the climate agrees with me
+extremely well. Some of our people, however, are sick.
+
+_14th._--The mornings continue cold; 65� outside the tent, and a few
+degrees higher inside. This fresh weather, no doubt, accounts for my
+good health.
+
+According to a Tibboo merchant now here, and going with our caravan, the
+people of Wada� would receive a Christian well, and allow him to visit
+their country. He represents Wada� as a very rocky region, like Aheer,
+with two large rivers in it running from south to north--not season
+streams, but continual. He says that the people are all blacks, and a
+very tall race. They have a language of their own, which is difficult to
+learn. Warrah is the capital. The natives drink a great deal of _bouza_,
+and are nearly always intoxicated. Such is a summary account of Wada�
+from the mouth of a Tibboo geographer.
+
+This morning, Madame En-Noor sent me by Zangheema a pair of pewter
+earrings, in exchange for some rings. It is extremely difficult to make
+a good bargain with these people. With respect to our merchandise, it
+all sells lower here than we paid for it at Mourzuk. The profits come
+from the purchase of slaves. A burnouse of forty mahboubs will sell in
+Soudan for little more than its cost, if dollars or money is to be
+given; but if slaves are taken in exchange, three slaves, perhaps, may
+be obtained, which, in Tripoli, may be sold at forty or fifty dollars
+each. Hence the profit of the Soudan commerce. The article which yields
+the greatest profit is loaf sugar, which, costing half a dollar in
+Mourzuk, is said to sell for a full dollar in Bornou. To be sure there
+is all the risk and the heavy freight of such an article, especially if
+conveyed up during the rainy season.
+
+I wrote yesterday a despatch to Government, requesting letters of
+recommendation to be sent up to me in Kordofan, pointing out the route
+of Egypt as the probable one by which I shall return to the
+Mediterranean. I had a long dispute with Overweg about the letter
+_ghain_, which he persists in pronouncing like a strong _k_. Yusuf was
+called in, and declared that the _ghain_ was the letter which
+distinguished Arabic from all other languages. In Kailouee Tuarick there
+is no _kaf_ or _ghain_. These Berber dialects have, however, the hard
+_g_ in a thousand words, and have also the _k_ in a great number of
+cases, but the hard _g_ and the _t_ are the consonants most frequently
+occurring. The Haussa has also the _g_ hard, as in _magaree_,
+"good;" and a great number of words with the sound _tsh_, as _doutshee_,
+a stone or mountain.
+
+The Fellatah language is said to resemble the Kailouee; in other words,
+to be a Berber dialect. If this be the case, the Fellatah people are
+probably of Berber extraction, and not Arab, as they are vulgarly
+supposed to be. This is a question requiring still further
+investigation. Others, again, say that the Fellatah language is quite
+different from the Tuarick. Overweg thinks Islamism was introduced into
+Bornou by the Shoua Arabs, who are found in Bornou in great numbers. The
+Fellatah, he thinks, received Islamism by way of Timbuctoo, from Moors
+and Arabs trading to that city from Morocco. There is considerable
+probability in both these opinions.
+
+_15th._--Four or five days after the approaching Eed, or festival, half
+the people of Tintalous will go for salt, and the other half prepare for
+their annual journey to Soudan with En-Noor.
+
+The inhabitants of Damerghou are reported to be half "_Kohlan_," blacks,
+and half Kailouees. It is the Kailouees in the neighbourhood of
+Damerghou who infest the borders and routes of Bornou. En-Noor is now
+very quiet, and there is a chance that he will not come down upon me for
+more money.
+
+According to the Fezzanees, Tuat is thirty days from Aisou and
+thirty-three from Taghajeet (short days). Gh�t is forty short and thirty
+long days from Tintalous or Asoudee. Bilma is fourteen long and seven
+short days from Tintalous or Asoudee. There is no direct route from this
+(Tintalous) to Timbuctoo; from Sakkatou there is, however, a short route
+to Timbuctoo, and it is said to be a safe one. The number of days here
+mentioned are merely general numbers; they vary according to the good
+state of the camels, or the disposition of the people, or certain
+accidents on the road.
+
+The evening of the feast of the "Descent of the Koran from Heaven," all
+good Muslims ought to sit up all night to read the Koran, through and
+through again.
+
+There is a curious commerce of yamane�, or agate stones, in
+Soudan. These yamane� are originally brought from the eastern
+coast of Africa, from and near Mombas (Mozambique), where they pass as
+money, like the cowries. From Mombas they are carried, by the Muscat
+traders, to Yamen, and thence to Mekka; in which place they are blessed,
+and rendered doubly precious. From Mekka they are brought to Egypt, and
+from Egypt to Mourzuk; from which point they are distributed all over
+this part of Africa, and the souk of Kanou is stocked with them. They
+are much esteemed by all classes of the inhabitants of the interior of
+Africa, and are worn equally by the men and women.
+
+In this commerce we see the round-about-way in which some articles are
+conveyed for sale. If there were a road from Mombas direct to Bornou,
+this agate would be cheap enough. But then, perhaps, it would not be
+esteemed or valued at half its present cost. It would not be blessed at
+Mekka, and so lose all its talismanic and mysterious power. The name is
+derived from Yaman, evidently from the first country in Arabia, to which
+they were brought originally from Africa.
+
+According to Overweg, Madame En-Noor is still very unwell with her lip.
+It is cut right across under her nose, penetrating to the gums; she is,
+nevertheless, very lively, and is always pestering Overweg to read the
+fatah with, or marry a young girl, one of her relations. She endeavours
+to warm my worthy friend to comply with her match-making wishes by
+luxurious descriptions of the beauties of the proffered bride.
+
+As soon as the people hear I have a wife in Tripoli, they begin to ask
+how many children I have got. On receiving for answer, "None," they are
+greatly astonished, and ask me the reason of so strange a matrimonial
+phenomenon.
+
+This evening another fine meteor appeared in the south-east. Its head
+was like a blazing star, and it left behind it a train of sparkling
+light and flame. There were also numbers of smaller meteors.
+
+_16th._--The morning of the Eed. According to the Fezzanees, prayers are
+soon ended; because, they say, "these Kailouees know nothing of their
+religion."
+
+The Fezzanees asked me to hoist the British flag; to which I replied,
+"No; the flag belongs to the Queen, but I will give you a little powder
+for your matchlocks." All these Mahommedan feasts are celebrated on the
+northern coast of Africa by the discharge of gunpowder.
+
+No certain information can be obtained of the route from Zinder to
+Sakkatou, in this place. The people only say the present Sultan is not
+so strong as was his father; thereby intimating that the routes are not
+so secure as formerly.
+
+It is usual for the inhabitants of Tintalous to visit those of Asarara
+on the morning of the present feast. About sixty men, natives of this
+place, accompanied by a dozen Moors from Tripoli and Mourzuk, went,
+accordingly, to Asarara this morning. Then a number of the people of
+Asarara returned with them. Yusuf remarked, with some surprise, that
+even the women went out to pray, about forty in number. So that it would
+seem the Kailouees educate their women in religion more than the Muslims
+of the coast.
+
+The most interesting event to us, however, this morning, was the arrival
+of the boat from Seloufeeat. Our servants were very quick in their
+return. They came all night, to avoid any further attempts to carry off
+the camels. They were all alone. I welcomed the return of the boat as I
+would that of an old friend.
+
+There was no firing this evening, as was expected, En-Noor being very
+unwell-suffering rheumatism and fever.
+
+The most agreeable sight in all these Mahommedan feasts is to see all
+the people dressed out in their finery. The merchants have appeared in
+splendid burnouses, all more or less in good humour. The slaughtering of
+the sheep to-day was the dirtiest part of the business. All here on such
+occasions play the part of butchers-men, women, and children; and all
+attack, stab, skin, and maul the poor animals, in a way frightful to
+behold. The environs of the town were turned into dirty
+slaughter-houses.
+
+_17th._--I have determined to purchase no more things from the Sfaxee at
+present. He makes me pay double price. It will be better to wait and see
+what can be done at Zinder. An infidel traveller, who is known to be in
+possession of any property, is sure in these countries to be looked upon
+as a milch-cow. Does not "the book," according to the vulgar opinion,
+authorise the faithful to take our lives? "Our purses are more lawful."
+
+The festival being over, I went to pay my respects to Sultan En-Noor. He
+is much better in health than yesterday, but has still a bad cold, and
+continues to blow his nose and wipe it--pardon the _na�ve_
+statement--with the sole of one of his sandals! The action struck me as
+rather uncleanly and undignified in a prince; but Kailouees are not
+punctilious.
+
+Mr. Gagliuffi had mentioned to me that he had given assistance to some
+shepherds who were begging their way to Soudan. One of these poor
+fellows had come to see the Sultan. He seemed, indeed, miserably poor,
+but tried to hide the fact, saying to them and Yusuf: "I have news for
+you; now I am your friend, as I was a friend to the Consul in Mourzuk."
+He was quite a young man, and excited my compassion.
+
+In the afternoon I received a visit from En-Noor, with a whole train of
+his people. The Shereef was absent. The Sultan came especially to see
+the boat, the pieces of which were put together that he might know its
+shape and size. Yusuf then drew for him a ship with all sails set, on a
+piece of paper. It was very well done; and excited the applause of my
+visitors. I treated them, as usual, with pickles, marmalade, and tea.
+Among other things I showed En-Noor the broad arrow, or government mark,
+on many of our things; as the guns, and pistols, tent, bags, and
+biscuits, which greatly surprised him.
+
+The Sheikh was in good spirits, and was pleased with his visit. I sent
+him during the day a piece of dark blue cotton print for a pillowcase.
+This little present delighted him much. I am much hampered with the
+"princesses," who first sent to buy sugar, and then to beg, forgetting
+to buy.
+
+We have a Tuat Tuarick changing camels for slaves now in Tintalous. This
+man belongs to the tribe called Sgomara, if I have caught the name
+correctly.
+
+_18th._--I rose early, having had a bad headache during the night
+through eating meat in the middle of the day. Whatever is eaten in the
+middle of the day must be taken very sparingly. I believe the greater
+part of the diseases with which foreigners in these countries are
+afflicted arise from want of sufficient attention to diet. We must take
+great care of our health just as we are entering Soudan. The weather is
+still cool, especially in the morning. The prevailing wind during these
+last twenty days has been E.N.E., which is very refreshing. The Moorish
+merchants pretend that in Soudan it is now very cold.
+
+I received a visit from the young Shereef, whose conversation smacked a
+good deal of a disagreeable curiosity respecting my movements and
+intentions in Central Africa. I therefore gave him a very ordinary and
+cool welcome. This fellow has been here some time, and never offered to
+pay us a visit before. En-Noor has been feeding him during his stay. He
+displayed a good deal of shrewdness, and is well acquainted with the
+Christians of the Mediterranean. He is going to visit his brother in
+Zinder, and then returns to Tripoli by the way of Bornou and Mourzuk.
+Like all these shereefs, or marabouts, he pretended that had he been
+with us, or had we travelled with him from Mourzuk to Tintalous, no one
+would have dared to molest us; an assertion wholly false, for the
+Tuaricks care little for marabouts when they are bent on plunder.
+
+A young woman has just arrived from a distant village, with the express
+object of procuring from the Taleb (Overweg) a medicine to produce
+abortion: she says she has been gadding, "barra" (out of her mother's
+house), and is frightened lest she should get a good beating. On
+Overweg's refusing to give her any such medicine she burst out into a
+pathetic lamentation, and talked loudly of what her parent would do to
+her. Young ladies often think of their mothers a little too late under
+these circumstances.
+
+A slave of the Sultan of Aghadez arrived this morning, in six days from
+the capital, to inquire after the health of En-Noor. He brings no
+particular news, but says he saw Barth at Aghadez.
+
+"Man is to man the surest, deadliest foe," has been quoted from the poet
+as most applicable to the moral and social state of Africa. It may truly
+be said to be our case, for hitherto we have suffered little in this
+town except from men. Looking also around us, the people suffer less
+from the arid country which they inhabit than from the violence which
+they inflict one upon another.
+
+I learned from Yusuf yesterday evening, that for every dollar I take
+from the Sfaxee, if I pay in Mourzuk, I must give two. I was greatly
+afflicted at this positive declaration, but scarcely believe it; if it,
+however, prove to be the case, I must by all means find money in Soudan.
+It will be a hard fight, indeed, to keep down the expenses of this
+expedition; however, every effort must be employed to effect this
+desirable object.
+
+Maradee, I learn, is three days west from Tesaoua; and this latter
+place is two from Zinder. There is another village, called Gazawa, one
+day south of Tesaoua. The inhabitants of these places are half
+Mahommedans and half pagans; the latter do not offer human sacrifices;
+their religious rites consist principally in worshipping trees, to which
+they sacrifice at certain seasons. The Fellatahs are always at war with
+the people of Maradee, but Gouber is at peace with Sakkatou. In
+Maradee there is one large stone-and-mud house for the Sultan; all
+the rest of the houses are bell-shaped huts. The place has a numerous
+population. Tesaoua is also independent and self-governed, as are most
+of the places hereabouts.
+
+I had a visit from two itinerant schoolmasters, natives of Bornou. From
+these I learned that there does exist a little education amongst the
+Kailouees. There is a village near called Amurgeen, three hours from
+Tintalous, where children are sent from all the places around, so that
+it forms a species of college or university. It is to this college that
+En-Noor sends his sons and grandsons. These itinerant pedagogues are
+negroes; and it is certainly a curious circumstance that from Central
+Africa instruction should migrate northwards. But the Kailouees have
+little pride in this respect; although boasting of the name of Tuaricks,
+and accounting themselves _white_ people, or allied with the whites,
+they do not scruple to receive education from the negroes of Bornou,
+whilst certainly it would be very easy to have Kailouee schoolmasters.
+
+I heard from my friend Tibbaou that En-Noor's territory in Tesaoua is
+simply a village at some distance from the medeeneh, or city, where
+there is a native and independent sultan of some power. His territory in
+Damerghou is also a mere village. Nevertheless, the possession of these
+places extends the political influence of the Kailouees in Soudan. The
+neighbourhood of Damerghou, especially the western side, seems
+celebrated for a tribe, or factions of tribes, consisting of bad
+Tuaricks. This race is evidently spreading in Soudan; there are great
+numbers in Gouber and the countries near.
+
+I purchased from the itinerant pedagogues of Bornou two of their
+ink-bottles, which are made of small calabashes. They wrote for me some
+specimens of their penmanship, a charm, _fatah_, or first chapter of the
+Koran. They wrote and formed their letters sideways, as some lawyers'
+clerks do in England.
+
+Dambaba Makersee took the liberty of informing me to-day, as if I did
+not know it before, that all the things of us Christians were considered
+by the Kailouees generally as common property, and that whoever could
+lay hold of any ought to do so without qualm or scruple; but, he added,
+when you arrive in Zinder, all will be changed. Let us hope so,
+_Inshallah_!
+
+Strings of charms are worn by the men occasionally under the arm, or
+suspended over the shoulders, as well as round the neck. The charm or
+armlet of the Moors and Tuaricks corresponds with the _Fetish_ of the
+ancient Kohlan, people of Soudan, and of the present negro races on the
+western coast.
+
+I finished the statistics of the towns and villages of Asben--after all,
+a very imperfect affair. Nevertheless, it is the best which I could make
+from my materials.
+
+En-Noor paid me a visit in the morning, and stopped gossiping two hours.
+From him I learnt that the Fellatah language has no relation to the
+Arabic or Tuarick, but is quite a language peculiar in itself. He also
+informed us that the Gouberites were still at war with the Fellatahs of
+Sakkatou; that they were united with the people of Maradee, ancient
+Kohlans like themselves, and that this united force had been lately
+gaining their lost ground against the new Muslim powers in Soudan.
+En-Noor seems to favour the re-establishment of these people against the
+Fellatahs. The latter he naturally hates, on account of their attempts
+on the independence of the Kailouees, and their perpetual intrigues at
+Aghadez.
+
+With regard to Tesaoua, En-Noor pretends that he founded this city. His
+statement is singularly suggestive and picturesque in its simplicity. He
+says that he met, on the spot where Tesaoua now stands, a forlorn man,
+with only two slaves.
+
+"What are you doing?" he said to the man.
+
+"Nothing," the man replied. "What can I do, naked as I am, with myself
+and two slaves?"
+
+"Oh!" rejoined En-Noor; "stop a minute, and I will bring you a multitude
+of people, and we together will make a large city." En-Noor kept his
+word, and brought a multitude of Kailouees, Kohlans, and their slaves.
+Now Tesaoua is a mighty city, and En-Noor has got a small town of his
+own near it, mostly peopled by his dependants. Such is the foundation of
+many African cities; these places springing up as mushrooms, and
+disappearing as soon.
+
+En-Noor also pretends, that through his father he is heir to the thrones
+of the ancient Kohlans, about Kashna, Gouber, and Maradee, and that he
+ought to come into possession after the death of the present occupants.
+This, I should think, is incorrect; but his highness has undoubtedly
+great political influence in those countries. We learn that several of
+the men of Tintalous have wives and families in Damerghou and Tesaoua,
+but none of them have large families--only one or two children.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+News from Barth--Camels restored--Expensive Journey--Proposed Migration
+of Males--Supply of Slaves, whence--A new Well--Pagans and
+Christians--Tibboo Manners--The great Gong--When is a Tibboo
+hungry?--Hunger-belt--Queen of England in the Sahara--The Shanbah--A
+hasty Marriage--Sa�d's new Wife--Wild Cauliflowers--Tolerance of the
+Kailouees--Men go to fetch Salt from Bilma--Approach of Dr.
+Barth--Lion's Mouth--Tibboos and Kailouees--Mysteries of
+Tintalous--Fewness of Men in Aheer--Trees preserved in the
+Valley--Bright Stars--Method of Salutation--Purposed Stars--Kailouee
+Character--Champagne at Tintalous--The Wells.
+
+
+_Oct. 22d._--A letter was received this morning from Dr. Barth. It
+appears that the treaty will not be signed, nor even presented to the
+Sultan. En-Noor paid me a visit, as usual, this morning. I presented to
+his highness some old boxes, with which he ordered a door to be made for
+his palace. His politeness does not cease, and the graciousness with
+which he receives my presents is really remarkable.
+
+The man sent after our camels brought back my poor white maharee, and
+demanded ten dollars (as good as twenty to me) for his trouble. I
+refused to give them, preferring to let him have the camel, which is
+hardly worth ten dollars. This manner of recovering our lost or stolen
+camels amounts to buying them over again. But it has been our misfortune
+all along, that our friends, and those who profess to be such, and all
+who attempt to aid us--every one of them, have profited by our losses,
+and the disasters which have befallen us. This dispute has been referred
+to En-Noor, and they have accepted five dollars, which I offered them.
+
+I this day made out the statement of the principal items of expenditure
+which the expedition has incurred from Mourzuk to Tintalous, including
+the escort to Zinder. It amounts to the enormous sum of three thousand
+mahboubs, or about six hundred pounds sterling!! If we do not proceed
+better than this on the future part of the journey, the expedition will
+at any rate be bankrupt and ruined for want of funds.
+
+_23d._--Yusuf and I brought before Overweg this morning the necessity of
+his assisting in relieving the Government from the double payment of the
+sums advanced by the Sfaxee. He agreed that it was highly important to
+save this money, and promised to place his goods at my disposal for sale
+in Soudan.
+
+On the departure of the caravan for Zinder and Kanou every male
+inhabitant will leave Tintalous, some starting with it and others going
+for salt, leaving only the women and children behind. This is considered
+by the Moors as preferable to leaving a few men behind, because these
+few would occasion quarrels amongst the women, and, besides, excite the
+jealousy of the absent husbands.
+
+Most of the men who go with us to Damerghou and forward to Tesaoua will
+find another wife and family in both these places. This is a regular
+emigration of males, not the accidental departure of fathers and
+husbands. These gentlemen pass half the year in Soudan and half in
+Aheer. The system does not appear to be advantageous to the increase of
+population: the wives of these birds of passage hardly bear two children
+a-piece. Indeed there are very few children in Tintalous. We have not
+yet sufficient data or experience for a conclusion on this part of
+statistics; but, up to the present, all that we have seen in Africa
+during this journey exhibits it as singularly miserable and destitute of
+population. We can hear of no man, not even a sultan with his fifty
+female slaves, having more than four or five children. As for the poor,
+one or two are all that they can bring up.
+
+Whence, then, comes the supply of slaves? So far as this part of Africa
+is concerned I may observe, in reply, that the annual number of slaves
+brought is exceedingly limited, amounting only to a few thousands. When
+we get nearer the western coast, we shall probably be able to account
+for the supplies of slaves which are transported across the Atlantic.
+
+This afternoon a well was commenced near our tents. The digging of a
+well is an important matter; his highness En-Noor, therefore, vouchsafed
+his presence. A number of the excavators came to me to beg for sugar. I
+brought out a piece of white loaf sugar, and broke it into thirty pieces
+or so; then ordered one of them to divide it fairly amongst themselves:
+but this was impossible. Anything like fairness amongst the Kailouees,
+all of whom are addicted to thieving (a habit acquired from Soudan), was
+out of the question. As soon as I rose from the ground, after breaking
+the sugar on a leathern apron, there was a general rush upon it, and
+some got a great deal and others none. Was not this a fine miniature
+picture of mankind?
+
+_24th._--En-Noor paid me a very early visit, and drank coffee. I heard
+that a courier to Mourzuk would cost forty dollars. I begin to learn a
+little Soudanese; there are some beautiful soft words in it. Yusuf says
+there is no name for God in this language; but his statement requires
+further examination.
+
+From what we learn respecting Barth's reception at Aghadez, it would
+appear that the people were disposed to look upon him with the same
+complacency as they are wont to regard the pagans, or En-sara as they
+call them, of Gouber and Maradee. Indeed, the Tanelkums and Kailouees
+consider that we shall be well received by our brethren, the pagans of
+Soudan.
+
+Here is a most extraordinary trait of the barbarity of the Tibboos. It
+often happens that they are out foraging for twenty days without finding
+anything to eat. If they light upon the bones of a dead camel, they take
+them and pound them to dust; this done, they bleed their own living
+camels (maharees) from the eye, and of the blood and powdered bones they
+make a paste, which they eat! This is somewhat analogous to what Bruce
+relates of the Abyssinians cutting out beefsteaks from the rump of a
+live bullock. The Tibboos possess the finest maharees; and the breed in
+the rest of the Sahara is always being improved or kept up by a constant
+supply from their country.
+
+I continue to supply his highness En-Noor with either tea or coffee
+every day. I sent him some early this morning. He is a greedy old dog,
+and will not buy a loaf of sugar because I will not give it him at the
+price of Mourzuk, and thus lose the freight. I hold out, and we have
+sold him none for the present.
+
+Overweg is making a small commercial lexicon of the things brought to
+the market of Kanou: a most excellent idea. I myself intend, if I go to
+Kanou, to make a list of all the things I find in the Souk, with some
+account of their produce and mode of importation into that mart.
+
+The great gong sounded throughout the village this afternoon, to give
+note of preparation to all the people, that every one of the males must
+be ready to leave this place in the course of three or four days. The
+Sheikh says he is determined to leave in three days, whether the people
+come from Aghadez or not. Yusuf laid before En-Noor this evening the
+necessity of our sending a courier to Mourzuk, stating that we had
+nothing left. His highness pitied our case, and said he would look about
+for a courier; observing, "The Consul has need of much money and many
+presents in Soudan." He said, also, that he would recommend us to go to
+Bornou.
+
+_25th._--The days are now pretty hot, and the nights correspondingly
+cool. We have a good deal of wind. I wrote a letter to Drs. Overweg and
+Barth jointly, calling upon them to assist me in case the Sfaxee would
+not wait for his money until the return of the courier. Dr. Overweg
+consents. I wrote out the Tuarick alphabet.
+
+The account of the Tibboos pounding the camels' bones and bleeding their
+animals to make paste, is confirmed by the Gatronee of the Germans.[4]
+He says, moreover, that this is the way in which they proceed. Every
+Tibboo must fast three days before he thinks about eating. If on the
+fourth day he do not arrive at the _belad_, or country, he then takes
+his left sandal from his foot, and stews or soddens it, making something
+of a soup. These sandals being leather, or untanned hide, it is,
+perhaps, not impossible to make of them a palatable soup! If on the
+fifth day he find no village, he then devours the sandal of his right
+foot. After this, still not finding a village, he collects bleached
+camels' bones and bleeds his camel as before mentioned.
+
+  [4] People are called here by the nation, and even town, to
+      which they belong, or in which they were born, as sometimes
+      in Europe.
+
+A Tibboo always has a girdle with seven knots, and when travelling hard
+takes in, as the sailors would say, a reef every day; if after seven
+days he find nothing to eat, he is considered hungry and unfortunate.
+The three Tuaricks who followed us from the well of Aisou declared that
+they had had nothing to eat for fifteen days; and there cannot be a
+doubt of the fact, that both the Tibboos and the Tuaricks can, on a
+pinch, remain without food for a considerable time--say ten or twelve
+days.
+
+A Tuatee, who knows Algiers well, arrived here this afternoon, and is
+going with us to Zinder. He brings an extraordinary report about the
+copy of the treaty which I left with Haj Ahmed at Gh�t. He says he heard
+it read, and from it learned that "the Queen of England is now in
+Tripoli, and wishes to come and live in Gh�t, and has offered to buy
+half Gh�t." Such is the nature of Saharan reports.
+
+More authentic intelligence arrived to-day by a courier, who made the
+journey from Gh�t to Seloufeeat in fourteen days--sufficiently quick.
+This courier brings a warning from Khanouhen to the caravans now
+proceeding to Gh�t, not to come in twos or threes, as they were wont,
+but to come altogether, as he fears reprisals from the Shanbah and the
+Haghar.
+
+The history of the thing is this:--A tribe of Tuaricks has always acted
+as the guides of the Shanbah in their foraging parties--on the Tuarick
+territory, for example--always pointing out to them the camels of the
+people of Gh�t. Khanouhen has chastised this treacherous tribe,
+destroying a great many of them; but the Shanbah and Haghar not choosing
+to desert their old friends, have determined to take vengeance upon the
+Gh�t Tuaricks. It is this revenge which Khanouhen fears. He anticipates
+a combined attack on the caravans. The wonder is how these routes are
+kept open at all, when these distant tribes, who have no interest in the
+commerce that moves along them, are notorious for their predatory
+feelings and education. It is now said that the Fadeea, our friends on
+the frontier, are in league with the Shanbah against the Gh�t Tuaricks.
+
+En-Noor, it appears, had sent his son to salute the new Sultan of
+Aghadez, and to assist in establishing or placing him on his throne. He
+got as far as Asoudee, when he fell in love with a pretty woman of the
+town, and at once married her, proceeding no farther on his mission.
+Yesterday evening a man arrived mounted on a maharee, bringing with him
+all the finery of the bride, which he exhibited to the people, riding
+about the town! All were greatly astonished at the splendour of the
+bride's dowry. Are not these fit materials for an Arabian Night's
+entertainment? My servant, Sa�d, also married the other evening, but not
+so romantically; taking up with the divorced wife of another freed
+black. I heard nothing of it until all was over. The parties guessed
+rightly that I should take no interest in the matter, or rather
+disapprove of it, as the fellow has abandoned his own and natural wife.
+This divorced negress, who has at last found a master, has gone the
+round of all the tents since she has parted from her former husband, and
+is a little intriguing wretch. The Sfaxee and Yusuf countenanced the
+affair, but kept it quite unknown to me. They, however, fetched Overweg,
+and presented him with a portion of the marriage-supper--bazeen. I felt
+much disgusted on hearing of the affair. The old wife is a native of
+Kanemboo, and is going thither. She will, of course, gladly take leave
+of her husband and this young wife and rival. Marriage is an excessively
+loose tie here, at any rate amongst the poor. The rich pretend to
+respect marriage.
+
+We have all done little in clearing up difficulties, or obtaining
+correct information of the Tuaricks of the Sahara. No good informants
+are to be found. From the Sheikhs of Gh�t it is quite impossible to
+learn anything. We hope to get some information from a Tanelkum now
+going with us. Many tribes have been mentioned, casually; but the
+principal are--the three great tribes of Gh�t, those to which Khanouhen,
+Shafou, Jabour, and Hateetah belong--a tribe in Janet--the Haghar of
+Ghamama--the Isokamara, located on the Tuat route from Aisou--the
+Tanelkums of Fezaan--the Maraga, a breed produced from the slaves of the
+Haghar and the Sorgou of Timbuctoo.
+
+_26th._--The sky is now frequently cloudy, but no rain falls. The valley
+of Tintalous is looking fresh, on account of the great quantity of wild
+cauliflower overspreading its surface, called by the Arabs _liftee_.
+This word _liftee_, is evidently derived from _lift_, "turnip." The
+vegetable grows in lines and circles, determined apparently by the
+action of the water, which deposits the seeds. No use is made of this
+wild cabbage; it is very bitter, and no animals even eat it.
+
+En-Noor paid me a visit this morning before I was up; he drank some
+coffee, and went off to see his camels. The Tanelkums were quite wrong
+in their surmisings about En-Noor and his religious fanaticism. He has
+shown less fanaticism than any prince with whom we have had yet anything
+to do during the present journey. All the Kailouees of Tintalous are
+equally tolerant. We have now three quasi-princes, or sons of sultans,
+in Tintalous, besides the son of En-Noor. We have Mousa Waled Haj-Ali,
+who takes our despatches to Mourzuk, with Yusuf my interpreter, and a
+Tibboo, the son of the Sultan of Kou�var. As we proceed onwards, princes
+and sons of princes will thicken upon us.
+
+_27th._--I packed up and sent off all my despatches to Mourzuk, together
+with a few trifling things for my poor wife, by the hand of Mousa Waled
+Haj-Ali, the virtual Sheikh of the Tanelkums.
+
+_28th._--All the male inhabitants, with the exception of five or six,
+have gone off this morning to fetch salt from Bilma. They return here in
+the course of a month, and the greater part of the salt is transported
+from hence to Soudan by the next caravan. We have heard of our friends
+at Aghadez. They are expected here in a few days. The new Sultan of
+Aghadez is said--but there is little accuracy in these desert
+reports--to have gone on an expedition west, to settle some differences
+between some tribes in arms against one another. The people also say
+that the new Sultan is "hungry," and is glad of such an opportunity to
+get "something to eat." This is the way in which they would describe a
+Chancellor of the Exchequer planning a new tax.
+
+Some say the object of the razzia is to chastise the Fadeea for
+attacking us; but still the main object is to fill the Sultan's "own
+hungry belly." Such are Asbenouee politics.
+
+_Bakin-Zakee_, the Soudanese name of the Kailouee green cap, I know here
+means the "_lion's mouth_." This is the phrase with which I always
+salute Zangheema, En-Noor's chief slave; but the terms are much more
+appropriate for his master, as intimating his avaricious, nay voracious,
+disposition. Zangheema, however, might be called "Karen Zakee,"
+the jackal of the lion, or "the lion's provider," so anxious is he to
+minister to the voracious appetite of his lord.
+
+We have received the news that Dr. Barth is near. He is expected
+to-morrow evening, or early next day.
+
+_29th._--En-Noor paid me a visit at sunset to-day, and talked of how
+many children people had in this country. His highness said he knew a
+sultan in Soudan who had seven hundred children.
+
+_30th._--The Gatronee of the Germans confirms the report of the
+circumstance, that, when the Kailouees go to the Tibboos to trade for
+salt, all the male Tibboos run away, leaving all the business in the
+hands of the females; which latter, besides trading in salt with the
+Kailouees, make a good mercantile speculation with their charms. Each
+woman, in fact, has her Kailouee husband or lover, during the carrying
+on of this singular commerce. If the traders catch a single Tibboo man
+staying behind, they at once murder him, with the most marked
+approbation of the Tibboo women. Such is the state of connubial fidelity
+in this part of the Sahara.
+
+The Tibboos have been very greatly neglected by persons writing on
+Africa, chiefly on account of the slighting, summary way in which they
+are spoken of by the members of the former English expedition to Bornou.
+They are, however, divided into a great number of tribes, are spread
+over a considerable extent of country, and are partly the guardians of
+the Bornou route. We must pay them some attention when they come under
+our observation.
+
+There is a man come from Dr. Barth and his party. They are expected in
+the course of forty-eight hours. En-Noor is very angry that they do not
+mend their pace. We are all ready to start. An immense caravan is
+waiting for their arrival.
+
+_31st._--The people begin to pester me to marry another wife in
+Soudan,--one very young and with large breasts is the kind of article
+they recommend.
+
+The mysteries of Tintalous are celebrated at the well in the evening,
+under the bright, glowing light of Venus, which star is now seen a
+couple of hours above the horizon after sunset. On the margin of the
+well, which is on the other side of the wady, at the distance of a
+quarter of a mile, the damsels of Tintalous regularly meet their lovers,
+and spend with them half an hour of sweet communion. Some even retire to
+the shade of a large-spreading tholukh near, or behind blocks of rock
+rising on the edge of the valley, and indulge in lawful or unlawful
+embraces. The strangers who come here, the Moors of Tripoli and Fezzan,
+are freely initiated into these mysteries.
+
+I am told by our servants, who have been round to all the villages or
+towns in the neighbourhood of Tintalous for the purchase of ghaseb, that
+these places, small or large, are none of them equal to Tintalous,
+although the houses are much the same--bell-shaped huts, and the people
+are of the same character. What has greatly astonished our servants is
+the fewness of the men; indeed, in some villages they saw no other
+persons but women and children, and scarcely any children. What is the
+cause of this? It would seem that the men are consumed by the women.
+These women bear few children, and perhaps this may in part account for,
+if it be not produced by, their excessive licentiousness. Yet the men
+are on the wing a great part of the year. The Kailouees, however,
+wherever they go, have their women at hand, and during a journey many of
+them take two or three female slaves. How is this superabundant supply
+of the softer sex kept up? If I am noticing a mere temporary phenomenon,
+the destruction of men in the razzias may account for the disproportion.
+Besides, the Kailouees are always imparting fresh slaves into their
+country.
+
+The poor people of Tintalous are fed chiefly on the pounded grains of
+the herb _bou rekaba_. It is a real Asbenouee dish. Overweg made a
+supper of it one evening. I tasted it, and find it has a very strong
+flavour of herbs; that is to say, what is commonly imagined to be the
+flavour of herbs in general. The people now go a long way for wood. The
+tholukh-trees of the valley are not allowed to be cut down; they are
+always preserved as a resource for the time of drought and dearth, when
+the flocks can find no herbage in the valley. The boughs are at such
+junctures lopped off, and the flocks are fed on the leaves. Thus I have
+seen the goats and sheep fed on the tholukh-leaves on the plains of
+Mourzuk, as well as near this place. Another reason may induce En-Noor
+to save the tholukh-trees,--that there may be a perpetual shade and
+verdure in the valley of Tintalous. There are many finer valleys than
+this in Asben, and were the trees not preserved, it would be a very
+barren, unlively spot.
+
+This evening, two hours after sunset, Venus exhibited her most splendid
+phasis: the west, where she was setting, about half-an-hour before she
+disappeared, was lit up as if it was moonlight. On concealing the
+planet, the effect produced was that of the setting of the moon. Every
+star was eclipsed in the western circle of the heavens, I never saw
+anything before equal to this. I could here fully realise the words of
+Scripture, that the stars were made also "to give light upon the earth."
+
+The manner of saluting and shaking hands amongst the Kailouees deserves
+notice: they first hold up the right hand with the palm outspread, like
+the Tuaricks of Gh�t. Afterwards, when more companionable and familiar,
+they take hold of hands, and press them lightly some five or six times
+or more, if great friends, and conclude this pressing of the hand with a
+sort of jerk, drawing quickly off each other's hand. In taking hold of
+the hand of your friend, you fit your thumb in the circle formed by his
+thumb and fingers, and every time you press his hand, and he presses
+yours, you separate the hands from each other.[5]
+
+  [5] This mode of shaking hands is common among the Fell�hs of
+      Egypt.--ED.
+
+_Nov. 1st._--The month has set in with wind,--not gusts, but steady
+wind, continually blowing from E.N.E. It is stated positively that we
+leave here to-morrow morning, whether the people return or not from
+Aghadez. I register all reports as I hear them, though perfectly aware
+that we have not been yet quite let into the secret of the singular
+migration in which we are about to bear a part. The greater number of
+the men of Tintalous have gone to Bilma in search of salt; and I
+originally understood that the great annual caravan was for the
+transport of this necessary article. Perhaps En-Noor means to go slowly
+on, just to keep us in good humour. Our intercourse with the Kailouees
+has taught us to consider them a very mild, companionable race. Often
+indeed, like children, I wonder what the Tibboos can see in them to make
+them so desperately afraid, for I am told ten Kailouees will frighten
+away fifty Tibboos of Bilma. But the Tibboos of Tibesty are considered a
+braver race. It is worthy of remark, that these cowardly Tibboos have a
+bad character, and, like most cowards, are very treacherous.
+
+I determined not to carry the little box in which the two bottles of
+champagne were packed any further; so I, Overweg, Yusuf, and the
+servants, set to work and drank a bottle of it, to the toast, "that we
+might have better luck higher up than all have hitherto experienced."
+The other bottle I have stowed away in reserve for the Lake Tchad, to
+drink the health of Her Majesty when we launch the boat, if we are
+fortunate enough to arrive there.
+
+I went to the wells to see the people get water this morning. A number
+of little children came,--some naked, and others with small pieces of
+leather round their loins: they all wore very large necklaces of charms
+sown up in leather bags.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+Dr. Barth's Journey to Aghadez--Description of the
+Route--Tiggedah--Luxuriant Scenery of Asadah--Plain of Tarist--Beautiful
+Valley--Buddeh--Small Caravan--Aghadez--its Inhabitants--their
+Occupation--The great Koku, or Sultan--Asbenouee Revolutions--Election
+of a Prince--Interview--Ceremony of Investiture--Razzia--Intricate
+Political System--Account of Aghadez--Mosque--Environs--Women--Tribes
+of Asben--The Targhee Family--Population of the Gh�t Districts--of
+Aheer--The Oulimad and Tanelkums--Tribe of
+Janet--Haghar--Sagamaram--Maghatah--Extent of Aheer--Connexion
+with the Black Countries--Mechanism of Society in
+Aheer--Chieftains--Tax-gathering--Food of the
+Kailouees--Maharees--Amusements--Natural Features of
+Asben--Vegetation--Cultivation--Manufactures--Bags for Charms.
+
+
+Dr. Barth[6] has made a very interesting journey to Aghadez. He says the
+track lies either through fine valleys or over mountain-chains cut up by
+defiles. Here and there were charming spots, green with herbage and
+trees. In going, the shallow wells at Eghelloua were found to be full of
+water; but a month later they were all dry. Beyond is the Wady Chizolen,
+overlooked by a mountain that rises abruptly to the height of two
+thousand feet. Then comes the valley of Eghellal, with its rivulet, and
+beyond swell the famous mountains of the Baghzem. The worthy Doctor
+seems to have been too much occupied in collecting geographical data to
+preserve many picturesque facts by the way. On the third day he encamped
+at Tiggedah, where numerous species of trees and bushes tufted the
+valley, which was clothed also, near the margin of its streams, with
+grass as fresh and green as any in Europe. At that time, however, the
+place, with the exception of the cooing of wild doves and the cry of a
+solitary antelope, seemed perfectly unvisited by man. Afterwards, it was
+found full of flocks and herds, and enlivened by the encampment of a
+salt-caravan, with a string of young camels bound for Aghadez. The tribe
+to whom the valley belongs are nomadic, and shift from one place to
+another, as their fancies and necessities suggest. Amidst the trees,
+however, may be seen a small mosque, built of stone and roofed with
+palm-trees.
+
+  [6] See the papers read before the Geographical Society, in
+      January and March 1851. It appears to me that Mr. A.
+      Petermann slightly depresses the importance of the part
+      played by Mr. Richardson in this mission. However, this may
+      arise from the fact that the communications on which his
+      paper was founded were all from his German friends. It is
+      not necessary to be grudging of notice to any of the three
+      enterprising gentlemen who undertook this arduous journey;
+      but we must always remember who planned the Mission, and
+      who directed it with consummate prudence as long as life
+      and strength lasted. In Mr. Richardson's MS. an outline is
+      given of Dr. Barth's journey, and I therefore insert it,
+      with corrections and additions, from the papers just
+      alluded to.--ED.
+
+This agreeable place prefaces the still more luxuriant scenery of
+Asadah, where the vegetation is so rich, and the path so shut up by
+branches, that it is difficult to keep on the camel's back. What a
+contrast to the naked deserts of Gh�t! It was from between the rich
+foliage of this valley that Dr. Barth obtained his first glimpses of the
+majestic mountain-chain of Dogem, estimated to attain the height of
+between four and five thousand feet. It is the loftiest range in Aheer.
+
+The plain of Erarer-en-Dendemu, which next succeeds, is covered with
+brushwood and low trees, and inhabited by lions--here called the Father
+of the Wilderness. Dr. Barth saw several, as well as a kind of ape about
+the size of a small boy, squatting in crowds on the lower hills. Beyond,
+overhung by the mountains of Anderas, is the rocky plain of Tarist,
+famous among the Arabs, as well as the Kailouees, on account of the
+remains of a mosque, indicated only by lines of stones on the ground. It
+was founded by a great saint called Sidi Baghdadi, and is a general
+resting-place for caravans. The basaltic formation here succeeds the
+granitic; and the plain is covered with loose black stones, about the
+size of a child's head.
+
+Escaping from this rough ground, the travellers entered a narrow valley,
+trenched by a broad watercourse, along the sides of which was a thick
+growth of palm-trees. There are two villages in this wady. Near one of
+them slaves were seen yoked to a plough, and driven like oxen, by their
+master. Further south the hoe replaces the plough in preparing the
+ground. This valley, inhabited by the Imrad (a Targhee tribe), is
+capable of producing not only ghaseb, but corn, wine, dates, and all
+kinds of vegetables. Fifty gardens adorn, it is said, the neighbourhood
+of Ifargen. But, in general, the rich soil is left uncultivated, and is
+covered by wild and sickly vegetation, which checks the progress of the
+traveller.
+
+In Wadi Buddeh grows a prickly plant called karengia; and a parasite
+(_griffenee_), producing a sweet but insipid berry of a red colour. A
+party of five lions were pursued like so many jackals. A small caravan
+of four persons, in Wadi Teffarrakad, were making use of four different
+modes of progression: one was on a camel, another on a buffalo, the
+third on a donkey, and the fourth used his own legs. In Wady Boghel were
+the signs of a field of ghaseb having existed last year. The ground was
+covered by a sickly wild melon; and in the thick foliage of the trees
+the guinea-hens were cackling. Here Dr. Barth saw the first specimen of
+the baur� tree, the trunk measuring twenty-six feet in circumference,
+and the thick crown rising to the height of eighty feet. Here and
+elsewhere wild beasts were observed. The whole country, indeed, abounds
+in lions, wild boars, gazelles, ostriches, and monkeys.
+
+On the seventh day the party reached Aghadez, which they entered about
+an hour after sunset, it being the custom in this country never to enter
+a town by day. Aghadez is situated on a hamadah, or lofty plateau of
+sandstone and granite formation. Around, although there is no arable
+soil, a good deal of herbage and wood is found in the depressions of the
+plain. It is not surprising, therefore, that this much-talked-of capital
+is nothing but a large village, as indeed are all the other places of
+Aheer, with the exception of Asoudee. Aghadez, which is mentioned by Leo
+Africanus, is said by tradition to have been founded or enlarged by
+settlements from the north, consisting of a people called Arabs, but
+probably Berbers, since expelled by the Tuaricks. It serves as a sort of
+rendezvous between the Kailouees and the tribes to the south and west. A
+peculiar language (Emghedesie) is spoken by the inhabitants in their
+private intercourse; but Haussa is the idiom of trade. There are about
+seven hundred inhabited houses scattered among the ruins; and of fifty
+thousand people who must previously have lived within the walls, scarce
+eight thousand remain.[7] The inhabitants are partly artizans, partly
+merchants; but few caravans now pass on this route, and commerce with
+Timbuctoo seems altogether to have ceased. The trade that exists is
+entirely in provisions, principally in ghaseb, or millet, which is
+imported from Damerghou. The system adopted is entirely one of
+barter--the Aghadez money consisting of turkedi,[8] or dark-coloured
+cotton for female clothing made in Soudan, Egyptian leather for sandals,
+English calico, white shawls, cloves, pepper, pearls, &c. All these
+objects are imported, the only manufactures of Aghadez being
+leather-work (sandals and saddles) and coloured mats. I do not know what
+materials are used in tanning. The Fezzanee gets assistance, according
+to my fighi, from four trees--the graut, the ethel, the pomegranate, and
+the essalan. The first and last are a species of acacia. Women and men
+work in their houses at the production of these articles, and merchants
+go and purchase _� domicile_, there being now no shops. There are three
+market-places or bazaars, where prices are very low.
+
+  [7] This is Dr. Barth's statement, which I have introduced from
+      his own account. It will have been seen that Mr. Richardson
+      (see vol. i. "Note on the Territorial Division of Aheer,")
+      makes a much lower estimate. I may here remind the reader,
+      that even when in his diary Mr. Richardson inserts two
+      different and contradictory statements, I do not undertake
+      to select one and suppress the other, except in the case of
+      an obvious slip of the pen. Nor have I thought it necessary
+      to burden the page by indications of slightly different
+      assertions. A diary must necessarily abound with imperfect
+      observations, which correct or complete one another; and
+      perhaps the general impression left on the mind of the
+      reader--who accompanies, as it were, the writer in
+      receiving its various elements--is more like truth than it
+      would be after the perusal of one absolute dogmatic
+      statement.--ED.
+
+  [8] As an illustration of the previous note, I will observe
+      that this word is spelt in several different ways in the
+      MS., and I do not know which is the correct one.--ED.
+
+The Sultan of Aghadez, the great Koku Abd-el-Kader, does not receive any
+direct contribution towards his revenues, from the people of Aghadez,
+but levies a kind of _octroi_ of ten mithkals on every camel-load of
+goods that enters the town, provisions being exempt. He has property of
+his own, however; receives presents at his installation; and can always
+raise a sum by making a razzia on any neighbouring freebooters.
+
+It is a fundamental law in Aheer, that the Sultan of Aghadez shall
+belong to a particular family, which is said to derive its origin from
+Constantinople. Therefore when, in consequence of some discontent,
+Abd-el-Kader was deposed last year, the malcontents chose a relative,
+Hamed-el-Argau; but he also displeasing, a rival was set up in Makita,
+also of the same family. This caused great confusion, and the Walad
+Suleiman took the opportunity to make forays against Aheer. The prudent
+then resolved to restore the old Sultan, and succeeded, as I have
+already said, in their endeavours. When Dr. Barth arrived in Aghadez,
+the investiture was about to take place. The Sultan is chosen by the
+Kilgris and Iteesan tribes, who nourish a deadly hatred against their
+kindred, the Kailouees. On the present occasion, however, a marabout
+proclaimed peace and good-will between these ancient enemies. It was
+necessary, indeed, that some understanding should be come to, as after
+the election the ratification of En-Noor and Lousou is required.
+En-Noor, especially, is greatly respected by the people of Aghadez, as
+the grand supporter of authority in Asben. The new Sultan is usually
+brought from Sakkatou in state by the tribes Iteesan and Kilgris. A vast
+crowd of them, with their families and flocks, had marched up and
+occupied a camp near the town; but they departed on the same day that
+Dr. Barth arrived--even before he entered.
+
+Early in the morning, Dr. Barth paid his respects to the Sultan. He was
+a stout man, about fifty-five years of age--benevolent-looking, as far
+as could be judged in spite of his face-wrappers. He sat in a large
+room, supported by two massive columns, and received his visitors
+kindly. The presents pleased him, and were acknowledged by the
+counter-present of a fat ram, and by meals sent every day.
+
+The ceremony of investiture took place on the 16th of October, and seems
+to have been an imposing spectacle. Certain intricate forms are used to
+express the combination of various Tuarick tribes in choosing this
+foreign sultan. Succeeding it was the great festival, on which a
+procession took place, in which the new chief, wearing the burnouse
+which I had sent him, took part, with a great number of Tuaricks in
+their best array. Immediately afterwards a razzia (of which both we and
+Dr. Barth heard various conflicting reports) was agreed upon against the
+tribes of the north, especially those who had molested our
+expedition--the Fadeea. It was highly successful, and may perhaps be
+useful in procuring respect for future travellers. Two thousand men went
+out upon this foray, in which Abd-el-Kader was accompanied by
+Astakeelee, the Sultan of the Kailouees. Some, indeed, say that the
+latter only acted. Very little resistance was made, and I hear of only
+one man being killed. The fellow who stole Barth's maharee was compelled
+to restore him. Dr. Barth, however, though well-pleased on the whole
+with his reception, did not venture to present the treaty. He obtained
+some letters of recommendation to Soudan. Many of the distinguished
+persons of Aghadez visited Dr. Barth during his stay, and altogether his
+reception was satisfactory.
+
+I have already mentioned that the Sultan of Aghadez, though elected and
+controlled by a kind of aristocracy of sheikhs of various tribes, is
+invested with the power of life and death. He is said to have a
+frightful dungeon, into which guilty persons are thrown upon swords
+sticking upright in the ground. In his warlike expeditions he is
+regarded, however, as chief of some tribes only. The Kailouees have a
+sultan of their own, and encamp apart. The Sakonteroua, or Sheikh of
+Aghadez, exercises considerable influence. He is obliged annually to
+accompany the great salt-caravan, which sometimes numbers ten thousand
+camels--Saharan statistics--to Sakkatou.
+
+The town of Aghadez was formerly divided into a variety of quarters, the
+names of which still remain, although the space they occupied--three
+miles in circuit--is now principally filled with ruins. With the
+exception of five or six rubbish-hills, the whole space is level. The
+houses are spacious, with large rooms and court-yards. They are of mud,
+whitewashed, and furnished with flat terraces. Doves, children, and
+young ostriches, enliven the streets. There are some mosques, but none
+of imposing architecture. One, however, has a lofty tower, almost
+pyramidal in shape, supported on a basement of pillars, and rising to
+the height of about ninety feet. There is a kind of ladder inside; but
+Dr. Barth was not allowed to ascend, being told that the entrance was
+walled up.
+
+The land around the town is slightly undulating, and covered in the
+depressions with the _Acacia Arabica_. Herbage and good water abound.
+There are no orchards near, except in Wady Ameluli; but El-Hakhsas,
+three hours distant, produces melons, cucumbers, and melochiyeh, and
+supplies the whole town.
+
+The women of Aghadez are reported to be free and easy in character, and
+let loose tremendously as soon as the Sultan had departed on his razzia.
+Dr. Barth had some difficulty in keeping them at a distance. There are
+more children, however, to be observed in Aghadez than in most Aheer
+towns.
+
+This journey of Dr. Barth's has considerably extended our acquaintance,
+both with the geography and the political state of Asben or Aheer. We
+see now that it is strictly a portion of the Sahara, intersected with
+fertile valleys, that towards the south begin to assume quite a tropical
+character. The inhabitants are various in origin and in name; but it is
+difficult to describe their subdivisions with any accuracy. According to
+the natives, there are only two great tribes--the Kailouees, which
+division includes the Kailouees proper, the Kaltadak, and the Kalfada�;
+and, secondly, the Kilgris, including the Kilgris proper, the Iteesan,
+and the Ashraf. But, in questions of detail, numerous other names appear
+which it is difficult to arrange under any proper head. The Kailouees
+are, I think, of genuine Targhee origin, although, as I have already
+mentioned, with a mixture of the Soudan races. The Kaltadak and the
+Kalfada� seem to be identical with the borderers who attacked us on our
+first entrance into this country. The Kilgris are located southward,
+beyond Aghadez, along the Sakkatou route, and even far into Soudan,
+where the influence of the Targhee races seems to be rapidly on the
+increase.
+
+According to some of the Tanelkum Sheikhs, the following are the names
+of the principal Targhee tribes scattered over the desert of Sahara,
+excluding the inhabitants of Aheer:--
+
+1. Ouraghen     family of Shafou.
+
+2. Emanghasatan   "    of Hateetah.
+
+3. Amana          "    of Jabour.
+
+These are Gh�t Tuaricks--Azghers.[9]
+
+4. Aheethanaran, the tribe of Janet.
+
+5. Hagar (Ahagar), pure Hagars and Maghatah, who stand to them somewhat
+in the relation of the Kourglouss of Algiers to the Turks. They occupy
+the tract between Gh�t, Tuat, and Timbuctoo.
+
+6. Sagamaram; located on the route from Aisou to Tuat.
+
+7. Oulimad; tribes surrounding Timbuctoo in great numbers. In
+conjunction with the Berebisheers, a tribe of Arabs, they shut up the
+road between Aghadez and Timbuctoo by their predatory character.
+
+8. Tanelkum, located in Fezzan.
+
+  [9] The three tribes of Gh�t are called Azgher, in
+      contradiction to the Hagar. A Tanelkum explained the
+      meaning of this last word (which I have usually written
+      Haghar) to mean "wandering" or "wanderers." The word is
+      sometimes written Hogar.
+
+We have been making inquiries of the Tanelkums about the population of
+Gh�t and its deserts. The Tanelkums say, that ten or twelve years ago
+Khanouhen brought up about ten thousand maharees against the then
+masters of Mourzuk, the Walad Suleiman, headed by Abd-el-Galeel. The ten
+thousand maharees were the whole force and strength of the Azgher,
+Khanouhen having called out every male; for every man of the Azgher is a
+warrior. The Arabs, seeing the number of the Tuaricks, deemed it
+expedient to make peace. From this circumstance, it would be supposed
+that the Azgher may number from five to ten thousand families, nearly
+all located west of the Soudan route, along the lines of the Ghadamez
+and Tuat routes; where, it is said, there are fertile valleys, in which
+dates and corn are cultivated. But at Gh�t I could never learn anything
+of these wadys. During my last visit I had no time, and the people there
+had no inclination to give me information about this fertile portion of
+the Azgher desert. On the former occasion, I learned from Haj Ahmed that
+there was a running stream, on the banks of which corn was cultivated,
+at about four days west of Gh�t. This is probably the locality of Janet.
+For myself, I do not believe the Azgher Tuaricks number more than two
+thousand families.
+
+Of the population of Aheer I have been able to learn nothing definite;
+that is to say, nothing which I can absolutely depend upon. Some make it
+reach above fifty thousand souls. There are, however, only forty towns,
+exclusive of Aghadez; and about twenty places where people live in
+tents. I wrote down a second list of them, with their directions, and
+some guess at the number of male inhabitants. The son of the Tanelkum
+Sheikh considers the Kailouee warriors to amount to about fourteen
+thousand; which, indeed, will make the whole population above sixty
+thousand. The accounts I have received, therefore, seem to be
+sufficiently exact for general purposes.
+
+The Tanelkum Sheikh says there are no other tribes of Tuaricks but those
+enumerated above. The largest and most powerful tribe is that in the
+neighbourhood of Timbuctoo, the Oulimad, answering, perhaps, to the
+Sorghou of Caillie; and the smallest and weakest, the Tanelkum. But the
+Tanelkums, if small in number, are great in pride, and consider
+themselves a race of marabouts. They certainly make long prayers, and
+several of them can write a little. The Turks treat the Tanelkums with
+great consideration, and every year the Pasha of Mourzuk gives their
+Sheikh a fine burnouse and other presents. They pay no impost, though
+living in the Fezzan valleys. They are devoted to peaceful pursuits, and
+are camel-drivers and small merchants. Formerly they were powerful; and
+gave a sultan to the town of Gh�t. About a century ago, their Sheikhs
+and the greater part of the Tanelkums were destroyed by a razzia of the
+Tibboos. They had then a town, which was situate in the Wady Esaiyen,
+where there are still ruins to be seen, and which we passed near Berkat.
+
+Of the Oulimad I know but little, except that they are exceedingly
+turbulent, even ferocious, in the neighbourhood of Timbuctoo. They also
+extend their razzias from Timbuctoo to the south-western frontiers of
+the Asbenouee territories. A very short time ago they made a foray on
+the Soudan route, between this and Damerghou. The Gh�t Tuaricks I have
+pretty well described.
+
+The tribe of Janet has been mentioned frequently in this journal, from
+the circumstance of their attempting to get up a razzia against the
+expedition.
+
+The Haghar are well known, even in Europe, for their freebooting
+propensities. They lie between the Oulimad and the Azgher tribes
+surrounding Tuat, and are some of them engaged in commerce.
+
+The Sagamaram (or Sgamara) are an interesting small tribe, located in
+the rocky valleys, along the line of the route from Aisou to Tuat. They
+are mostly dressed in leathern clothes, and trade with Tuat, taking
+their cloths and a fragrant herb called _debau_, which they exchange
+against dates, &c. They likewise come to Aheer and Soudan, and fetch
+slaves and goods for the souks of Tuat. They are a very pacific tribe,
+not unlike the Tanelkums, but carrying on more commerce.
+
+The Maghatah (or Maratah) are a thievish race, and have the vices of
+their mothers, those peculiar to Soudan, as well as the more ferocious
+traits of Berber bandits. Several of these people are in Janet.
+
+In concluding these imperfect general observations on the state of Aheer
+or Asben, I will only add that the country extends from north to south
+eleven days' journey, or about two hundred and twenty miles (twenty
+miles to the day); and east and west, eight days, or one hundred and
+sixty miles. Aghadez, the largest town or city, stands, as has been
+seen, alone; and may be considered as a kind of connecting link,
+politically and otherwise, with the black countries to the south. I have
+already endeavoured to explain the singular constitution of society in
+this large but thinly-peopled tract. We observe there a curious
+combination of the monarchical and patriarchal states, with a dash of
+democracy into the bargain. Several times I have been reminded of
+Homer's heroic age. The princes and the people seem alternately to
+appear on the scene, exercising sovereign sway. The great Sultan is
+elected from out of the country; but he is compelled to seek the
+ratification of the chiefs, the elders, and the populace within. Then
+there is the great chief of the Kailouees, whose town or camp is at
+Asoudee; with Sultan Lousou, a most influential man; not to speak of the
+great En-Noor himself, who has, perhaps, personally, the greatest
+political weight of them all. Each of these great men is perpetually
+surrounded by an army of retainers, dependants, and slaves; and public
+affairs are transacted, partly according to some old routine, difficult
+for a stranger to understand, partly after the fashion of "Arabian
+Nights," kings meeting casually at the head of great armies in some
+poetical wilderness. All these chieftains are both pastors and
+merchants. One of their chief articles of traffic is, I am sorry to say,
+their unfortunate fellow-creatures. They are the greatest slave-dealers
+in the Sahara; two-thirds of the whole commerce is in the hands of the
+Kailouees. The Sultans levy duties likewise on the caravans that pass
+through their territory--duties which, to our cost, we know to be
+neither regular nor moderate; but they have no right to apply taxation
+to their quasi-subjects. Sometimes, when they are "hungry," they make a
+razzia on a distant tribe, and find both slaves and cattle at their
+disposal.
+
+As might have been expected, the Kailouees--princes and people--are not
+very refined in their ideas or luxurious in their habits. Their food
+consists principally of the grains ghaseb and ghafouley, or guinea-corn.
+They have also flocks and herds of sheep, camels, and bullocks; but the
+bullocks are used chiefly for draft, and to carry goods from Aheer to
+Soudan. Asses are exceedingly numerous, and likewise go to Soudan to
+fetch guinea-corn. The population of Aheer, being scattered about in
+small towns and villages, a few hours journey apart, these animals are
+found very useful for the transport of the persons and effects of the
+poor. The richer people have camels of the maharee species, like all the
+Tuaricks; and in some respects it is the possession of this splendid
+animal which distinguishes the Kailouee population from the people to
+the south. For example, all their sports and pastimes would be exactly
+Soudanese, were it not for the introduction of the maharee. On the
+celebration of a wedding, the Kailouees ride round the groups of guests
+on their silent-treading camels, which measure their movements to the
+sound of a big rude drum. Such scenes would otherwise be perfectly
+Nigritian. The men dance, flourishing their lances; and the slaves both
+dance and sing. But I have already noted down all that I observed
+remarkable in manners, and need not here repeat myself.
+
+The great natural features of Asben, also, are doubtless by this time
+impressed on the mind of the reader. They consist of a series of naked
+granite rocks or mountains, some of them rising to upwards of three or
+four thousand feet, ranging in every direction, with many isolated
+peaks; and of picturesque valleys winding along between steep
+precipices--threads of green, in which the tholukh and all species of
+mimosa and acacia, with the souag and other trees, flourish in immense
+growth, sometimes adorned by garlands and festoons of luxuriant
+parasitical plants. Wild animals of various kinds range at will in
+unfrequented places, but do not seem to excite much terror. There are
+gardens and cornfields in the neighbourhood of some of the towns and
+villages, the cultivation being kept up during the dry months by
+irrigation; but only a few of the inhabitants, mostly slaves, cultivate
+the soil. Besides the grains I have mentioned, a few vegetables,
+principally onions, are produced. Date-palms bear fruit, which is good,
+but will not keep.
+
+I have already mentioned the chief manufactures of Aheer. They flourish
+to the greatest extent in Aghadez; but Tintalous also has its artizans.
+Working in leather was very popular during our stay, in consequence of
+the presence of a noted charm-writer--bags being necessary. A good many
+cunning blacksmiths ply their trade in various places.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+Projected Departure for Damerghou--False Start--Picturesque
+Caravan--Sultan's Views of White Skins--My Birthday--The Sultan fights
+his Battles over again--His Opinion of Women--Bragging--The Razzia on
+the Fadeea--Political News in the Desert--Cold Weather--Continue our
+Journey--Bornouese Fighis--Tin-Tagannu--Trap for a Lion--Mousa's
+Camels--A further Delay--Jackals and the Fire--Language of
+Signs--Tintalousian Coquettes--Departure of the Zinder Caravan--Natural
+Features--Languages--The Kilgris--Killing Lice--The Razzia to the
+North--Present of a Draught-board--Pagan Nations--Favourable Reports.
+
+
+_Nov. 2d._--As this was the day fixed for our departure for Damerghou,
+it may well be imagined that we looked forward to it with some anxiety.
+Our delay in the neighbourhood of Tintalous had been unexpectedly long,
+and at times even the idea had crossed our minds that we should never be
+allowed to depart at all. Often we had desired to start alone; but had
+been withheld by our own prudence, as well as by the representations of
+our host, the venerable Sheikh of Tintalous. We had come by degrees
+scarcely to believe in the possibility of an advance, and to consider
+ourselves as the prisoners of circumstances in this advanced part of the
+Sahara, touching on the very borders of Central Africa. Now, however, we
+saw, by the bustle of preparation in the town, that, whether the
+salt-caravan arrived or not, we were to press forward. All night the
+town was in a bustle. We rose before sunrise, to complete what packing
+we had to do, and saw Jupiter and the moon in positions nearly
+resembling the Ottoman device. It was windy all yesterday and this
+morning, with a considerable degree of cold.
+
+To my astonishment when we had taken leave of Tintalous, we pitched tent
+after half an hour's journey. This was done, however, for a twofold
+reason: 1st, to see that all was right, and that we had left nothing
+behind; and 2d, to buy ghaseb,--a supply having arrived from Asoudee
+just in time for us to carry with us. Never was there a more picturesque
+caravan. Ladies on bullocks, children and women on donkeys, warriors on
+maharees, merchants on camels, the Sultan's horse harnessed going alone,
+and following steadily; goats and their kids, sheep, foals of camels,
+&c. running or straggling along! When we had pitched tent in the valley,
+still in sight of Tintalous, En-Noor paid us a visit, and vouchsafed to
+explain the reasons of our delay. His highness also related several
+interesting things of Aghadez. The Sultan of that place, he says, is a
+descendant of one of three brothers, Shereefs, who ruled in Africa over
+the negro and other races. The eldest brother was Sultan of the West
+(Morocco); the next was Sultan of Bornou; and the third and youngest was
+Sultan of Aghadez in remote times. But how remote, it is impossible for
+En-Noor to tell, and, of course, for me to relate. I was much amazed by
+the predilection of En-Noor (who is not absolutely a white man) for
+black people. He praised Overweg, because he was getting brown and
+black. As for me, his highness was almost inclined to express his
+disgust for the whiteness of my skin. Unfortunately, I happen to be what
+the people call in England "very fair," except in those parts of my skin
+which come in direct contact with the sun. I spent the day in compiling
+a Haussa vocabulary, and hope to make considerable progress by the time
+we arrive in Damerghou.
+
+_3d._--This was my birthday, but of course it was unkept, and, indeed,
+almost unthought of until it was past.
+
+En-Noor again visited us, and drank with us coffee. His highness is
+getting quite attached to my tent, and swears that when I return to my
+country I must become a great man, and be made, like himself, a governor
+or sultan of some country. Shall I say, Inshallah? I asked Yusuf to
+explain why the Sultan thought so, and I could only learn that it was
+the opinion which his highness had formed from my general conduct.
+
+Being in a very happy humour to-day, the Sultan related many things of
+his youth; his exploits, of course, which all men relate, and which I
+shall likewise do, I imagine, if I live to be old. Showing us his
+withered fleshless arms, and taking hold of his armlets, he observed:
+"The time was when these armlets could not slip off. Now, see how easily
+they come away." He then abused me for my leanness, and admired the
+Taleb (Overweg), because he had more flesh on his bones. His highness
+also stated that he and a single man went to Damerghou and back in
+thirteen days, bringing a caravan of ghaseb. They never stopped on the
+road, but travelled day and night. This garrulous gentleman also
+declared he was the maker of his own fortunes--that he would not receive
+anything from his father. When he was young, he would take no person's
+advice; he did everything himself and from himself: but on the death of
+his father he always kept to his post as Sheikh of Tintalous, and Sultan
+of two towns in Soudan. He never moved this way or that way. Thus he has
+remained to a good old age, respected and venerated by all, whilst all
+his compeers have disappeared--not one remaining. He looks around for
+the friends and companions of his youth, and finds not one--they are all
+gone! Even now he allows no one in Asben to be greater than himself.
+Even if a Sultan presumes to lord it over him, he (En-Noor) at once
+knocks him down, and he is no longer Sultan in Asben. He remains,
+however, friends with all if he can. He never takes notice of anything
+which is not done under his own eyes; but when he sees a bad thing
+committed, he then acts--killing the wicked people, if necessary.
+
+The opinion of his highness of women does not flatter the ladies. He
+recommended us never to listen to the advice of our wives; if we did, we
+should be lost. The women were very well to fetch water, pound ghaseb,
+and cook the supper, but for nothing else. He never, himself, paid any
+attention to what they said; they were awful talkers. His highness here
+touched on a tender point; for, as the reader remembers, he has been
+beating one of his wives shamefully lately, because he pretended he was
+alarmed at her continual talking--bewildered by the length of her
+tongue! Proceeding in his confessions, the Sultan next related wonderful
+stories of a wonderful maharee which he had in his youth. With this
+maharee he rode to Aghadez in one day. With this maharee he chased, and
+run down, and won gazelles, and then cooked and ate them, &c. Glorious
+old fellow! Our Tanelkum Mousa, however, afterwards observed, that this
+was _kitheb_, "a lie;" but that he knew a woman who could catch
+gazelles. Many other things of equal interest his highness related, and
+then left us in a good humour.
+
+Two of our camels strayed this evening. En-Noor's people soon brought
+them back. Our servants are very careless, and all our mishaps are a
+profit to the Kailouees. We have still, however, two camels lost, and, I
+imagine, shall not now recover them. But I was glad to hear the news
+that the Sultan of Asoudee was successfully chastising all the people
+who on the road attacked us. He had punished the people of Azaghar and
+of Seloufeeat, even the son of Haj Bashaw; and the Haj himself, who was
+said to be our friend, because he did not look after his son. The Sultan
+acts quite according to my opinion, making all the principal people of
+Seloufeeat and other places responsible for the conduct of the poorer
+and lower classes. It is said that the Fadeea have fled; but others say
+that they have been captured, and all our property which could be found
+seized in the name of the Sultan of Asoudee. All the steps taken by this
+Sultan have been directed, more or less, by En-Noor. He can muster, it
+is said, two thousand warriors--for every able-bodied man fights in this
+country. This expedition may be useful for future travellers from
+Europe, but I fear we shall get back none of our property.
+
+As a specimen of the political news strained through the brains of the
+people of Tuat, I may mention that the Tuatee, recently arrived here,
+reports that "the King of the Frenchmen has run away to England, and
+carried with him all the money of the French," and, moreover, that "as
+the French conquered Algiers by distributing large dollars to every one,
+and hold it by the same means, the French now having no money, must soon
+relinquish Algiers again to the hands of the Muslims."
+
+_4th._--The weather is getting colder and colder. The last few days have
+been quite chilly, with a strong wind blowing from the east. This
+morning it was quite uncomfortable, the thermometer having fallen for
+the first time to 60� at sunset. We started early, and made seven hours
+in a south-eastern direction. It was a nice ride; but as the day
+advanced we got much sunburnt. After three hours we passed on the left
+the little village Zouazgher. The caravan showed again very
+picturesquely, the burdens tumbling off from the donkeys in the most
+delightful confusion, and the girls squalling for help. I ate on the
+road some Soudan dates, as they are called by the Arabs, and found them
+pleasant--a sort of bitter sweet. The name of the tree and of the fruit
+is, in Bornou, _bitu_. In Haussa the tree has two names, _aduwa_ and
+_tinku_. Our course to day was up a fine valley, down which the water in
+the rainy season runs from east to west. There was abundance of trees
+and herbage. At this place, however, lions abound, and last night a
+camel was eaten by them. We encamped opposite a mountain, rising pretty
+high in sugar-loaf shape, called Adudai. Over the carcase of the camel
+hovered a small flock of eagles.
+
+A Bornouee fighi, called Mustapha, from the country Malamdi, west of
+Kuka, tells us he has been six months at Aghadez. According to him, the
+route from Aghadez to Timbuctoo is one month. It is open, and not
+dangerous. En-Noor, indeed, promised to send any of us by that route if
+we wished. There are few people on the route, and if you pay them a
+little money you pass unmolested. This Bornouese fighi is not equal to
+his brethren whom I saw in Tintalous. But I learnt from this itinerant
+pedagogue the interesting fact, that there are a great number of persons
+of his profession, all from Bornou, travelling about in Aheer. Light,
+therefore, is springing up from the interior, and spreading to the coast
+in an opposite direction to what it did in former times.
+
+_5th._--Warmer weather greeted us this morning. We stay here to-day. The
+place is called Tin-Tagannu, and is a large wady, full of herbage and
+trees. It is inhabited by a few shepherds. This place is said to have
+been the first of the inhabited localities in Aheer, although now
+shepherds only drive their flocks there; so that spots of earth have
+their seasons and fortunes in the Sahara as elsewhere. By the way, I
+must continue to call this Sahara. Although there are periodic rains, we
+are still without the influences of the Soudan climate, which begins at
+Damerghou and Zinder. At the present season no country can be more
+healthy than these Asbenouee valleys. I hear that nearly all the women,
+as well as the men, have left Tintalous, so that the town is a perfect
+desert. En-Noor has brought his wives and daughters, and our caravan is
+like the migration of the whole of the town going in quest of a new
+country.
+
+A trap was set last night for the lion, but the king of beasts was too
+wise to be caught. En-Noor borrowed a gun of us to make this trap, which
+was of the following description. It was expected that the lion would
+come again to the carcase of the camel; so a hedge of thorns was made
+round the carcase with one opening, where was placed the muzzle of the
+gun, with a large piece of meat tied to the trigger, so that when he
+seized the meat he might fire off the deadly weapon against himself.
+
+This is a fine place for doves, and Overweg shot half a dozen to-day.
+Our Tanelkum, Mousa, informs us of the right way of tending camels. They
+ought never to be tied, but allowed to roam at large. They require also
+to be led through the best valleys, being so far helpless in finding a
+good grazing-place for themselves. He showed us his camels, comparing
+them with ours. And certainly ours, which had their legs tied and were
+not guided to good herbage, could not bear comparison. But, of course,
+the business, the support, the riches of Mousa, are his camels. They
+occupy all his thoughts, and would appear, to a stranger, to be the end
+of his existence.
+
+_6th._--This morning at sunrise the thermometer was as low as 52�
+Fahrenheit. We shivered with cold.
+
+Dr. Barth arrived early by way of Tintalous. He confirms the news that
+the Sultans of Aghadez and Asoudee have completely chastised all those
+tribes who stopped us on the road and levied black mail on us.
+
+En-Noor paid us a visit in the morning. After shaking us all in a very
+friendly manner by the hands, he expressed his regret that he could not
+go with us now to Zinder. The country was not tranquil, and the people
+would not consent to his going; but if we wished to proceed immediately
+with his principal slave, Zangheema, he assured us we should go safely.
+He then left us to reflect upon what we would do. We decided, without a
+dissentient voice, that we could not venture to go with Zangheema, and
+that we must wait for En-Noor, be the time ever so long. We forwarded
+this decision to his highness, who seemed to receive it with
+satisfaction. His wife sent us word, "To be sure not to go without her
+husband;" a piece of advice from a lady we are anxious most religiously
+to respect. Dr. Overweg made an application, through Daubala and Yusuf,
+to go to the salt-mines of Bilma with the Kailouees. But either the
+applicants betrayed the thing, or En-Noor was unwilling to grant
+permission. Our friend, therefore, is disappointed of this most
+interesting geological excursion.
+
+We are to remove a little further to the west, to a valley more
+convenient than this for pitching tents, and under some shelter. We
+still hope we shall not be obliged to await the return of the
+salt-caravan from Bilma (that is, a month, or forty days) before we
+start. Probably, when good news comes from the camp in the west we shall
+go on. It will be a sad trial for our patience to wait so long, after
+having already dallied more than two months in Tintalous.
+
+_7th._--The thermometer at sunrise stood at 51�--very cold. There are no
+signs yet of Zangheema's starting to Damerghou. The people, when sitting
+over the fire in the evening, relate jocosely that the jackals, not
+being able to come near the flame, and nevertheless feeling the cold
+very much, hold up their fore-paws, in a sitting or squatting position,
+in imitation of men, towards the fire, be they at ever so great a
+distance, and so screw up their imaginations to the belief that they are
+warming themselves. The language of gesticulation and signs, by the
+movement of different parts of the body, is quite a study in this part
+of the world. The most singular gesticulation, and yet the most
+significant, is that by which a person begs a thing. He holds the object
+in one hand (the left) before the owner, then gives the right hand and
+arm a swing round, and at last places the right hand to his bosom--the
+meaning of all which is, that he seeks to ascertain if the owner has any
+other article of the same description as that which he holds in his left
+hand, and whether he is willing to give it to him. When a Kailouee says
+a thing is good, he puts the forefinger of his right hand into the
+clasped palm of his left, and so, as he pronounces the thing good,
+_nagari_, he turns his imprisoned finger round within the closed left
+hand. When he says there are many persons, he clasps together the
+fingers of his left hand, and forms a good English fist, holding the
+hand thumb upwards. He then strikes, with the palm of his right hand,
+the fist of his left hand, held in that particular position. This sign
+also represents a more indelicate idea, and is used in the same way on
+the coast.
+
+The women, from the shepherdess to the princess, of Tintalous, are as
+fond of the bustle as European dames; but the important difference is,
+it is the natural bustle which they here delight to exhibit to the
+admiring male population. If a woman be called to, going off to the well
+for water, she does not turn round to see who is calling, but
+immediately draws her frock tight round her form, and imparts to it a
+most agitated and unnatural swinging motion, to the great satisfaction
+of the admiring lookers-on. Thus we see how the coquettes of London and
+Paris meet at opposite poles with these of the Sahara and Central
+Africa.
+
+Additional applications were made to En-Noor by my colleagues, to go
+respectively to Bilma and to Zinder--Dr. Barth wishing to go on with
+Zangheema--but without effect. The old Sheikh remained firm in his
+refusals: Zangheema, however, was the first to start objections to
+Barth's accompanying him. As to Overweg, we think he lost his
+opportunity by not treating directly with En-Noor, instead of Hamma his
+son-in-law. His highness will do nothing extra for us unless paid.
+
+_8th._--We rose early, and found a large portion of the caravan destined
+for Zinder already gone. This is very tiresome to see the people
+starting with whom you were to have gone, and to know that you have
+still thirty or forty days to wait; and as for expenses, living at
+almost as dear a rate as in Tripoli. Our boat has gone with the caravan.
+
+Hereabouts grow a great quantity of wild water-melons, _dela�ah_. They
+are very small and bitter, but the people, nevertheless, eat them
+occasionally. If cultivated they would, of course, soon yield an
+excellent supply. Barth represents the road between this and Aghadez as
+very woody, and also that the country is everywhere mountainous. Baghzem
+is not high, but is, nevertheless, a very large mountain, seen several
+days' journey. The high plains without water are also covered with
+trees. I hear, also, that the road between this and Damerghou is
+exceedingly woody, and the trees of "the scratching or rending
+description," like the tholukh. Aheer also abounds in senna.
+
+Yusuf says that all the people of Soudan are red, with the exception of
+the inhabitants of Tesaoua, Kanou, Kashna, and Maradee.
+
+Barth represents Gouber as stronger than ever, and united in alliance
+with Maradee against the Sultan of Sakkatou. He has written all the
+towns. Gouber appears amongst the towns described by Leo Africanus.
+
+_9th._--This morning En-Noor paid us a visit, to tell us to move after
+him in the wady near, under the shade of the trees. His highness was
+very polite and friendly, as he has now been for some time past.
+
+The weather continues cold--thermometer, 49� at sunrise in the air. This
+cold weather ought to strengthen or restore our health. It certainly
+would do us good, much good, if we could get meat and soups.
+
+I sent on our boat yesterday to Zinder, with three of our servants,
+together with some other heavy baggage. I was occupied to-day in
+compiling the Haussa dictionary. Kashna is represented to be the
+fountain of the Haussa language, the Florence of Soudan. Kanou is a
+place of foreigners, and the language of the city must be much
+corrupted. According to En-Noor, _Kal_, in the names _Kal_fada�,
+_Kal_tadak, _Kil_gris, and _Kail_ouee, signifies _country_. There are to
+be added to the zoology of this country the monkey and the _mohur_, or
+fine large gazelle, as large as a deer, called in Haussa _mar�ia_.
+We already find great differences in the pronunciation of the Haussa
+language, but especially in the following letters:--_sh_ is confounded
+with _ch_ or _tch_, _l_ with _r_, and _r_ with _l_, _o_ with _u_, &c.
+Letters are also frequently unnecessarily doubled. These differences,
+however, will never much affect the conversation, when the parties are
+well agreed upon what subject they are conversing.
+
+_10th._--This morning we are removing to the shade of the trees, near
+En-Noor. Dr. Barth describes the Kilgris as very fine, tall men, and
+much lighter in complexion than the Kailouees: they dress very simply,
+having only the black turkadee on their heads, having neither a bakin
+zakee under it, nor any white shash, or fotah, to wind upon it, in the
+fashion of the Kailouees. They are, like all these tribes, very proud,
+and nourish a deadly enmity towards the Kailouees, of whom they take
+precedence in Aghadez. Barth gave away a black-lead pencil in Aghadez,
+and afterwards everybody came to ask him for one. A person got one
+pencil, and begged another, saying, "the two would last him his whole
+life."
+
+_11th._--The weather is increasingly cold in the morning; three-quarters
+of an hour after sunrise the thermometer was 45� in open air.
+
+His highness vouchsafed this day to sleep in my tent, and yesterday he
+did the Germans the honour of slaughtering lice in theirs. It is a grand
+piece of etiquette in this country, that every man has the privilege of
+murdering his own lice. If you pick a louse off a man's sleeve, you must
+deliver it up instantly to him to be murdered, as his undoubted right
+and privilege.
+
+The Sultan of Aghadez has returned from his razzia against the people of
+Seloufeeat, of Azgher, and the Kalfada�. Those whom he caught he
+chastised: but most of the Fadeea fled. I register these varying
+reports, because they show the state of uncertainty in which we were
+always kept, now hearing one thing, now another. But the true state of
+the case seems to be, that though the great Koku of Aghadez did take the
+field for a razzia, the actual operations were conducted by the Sultan
+of Asoudee. It must be remembered, however, that with their maharees
+these desert-princes can march to and fro with surprising rapidity, and
+that rumour finds it difficult to follow their footsteps. En-Noor now
+thinks the country sufficiently tranquil to move on two days further. He
+says he shall do so in the course of fifteen days.
+
+_12th._--His highness paid me a visit as usual, and I gave him a box
+containing a looking-glass, with a lid, on which is painted a
+draught-board, for the wife of his highness, who recommended us not to
+leave En-Noor, but continue with him until he carried us safely to
+Zinder. His highness expressed great satisfaction for the present; and
+when I told him to take care it was not broken, he observed: "I will
+take especial care of this thing, because there is none like it in this
+country, and it cannot be repaired." He told us also that his ladies
+could play at draughts. I gave him, besides, a piece of green silk for a
+shade for his eyes. He went off immediately, gratified with these little
+presents.
+
+The weather is very pleasant for the study of languages, but the days
+are too short and the nights are too long. Nevertheless, I sleep nearly
+all night this cold weather.
+
+_13th._--Thermometer at sunrise in the open air was 41� 30' Fahr., so
+that the cold increases, this being the lowest which I have yet taken.
+The Germans have had a deal of trouble with Mohammed of Tunis; they
+would send him back, but there is no opportunity of doing so.
+
+M�guz�wa and Azna are the names of the pagan nations of Soudan, denoting
+the same people, and not different races. The names answer to the word
+_Kurdi_, in Bornou. These pagans say, in derision of the Muslims, when
+it rains, "Allah must have a large belly," that so much water falls from
+him.
+
+En-Noor describes pagans of Maradee drinking large quantities of _gia_
+(beer, or fermented liquor).
+
+This evening a Gadamsee arrived at the tents, bringing two or three
+slaves from Damerghou. He says the news of our arrival had already
+reached Damerghou--that it was reported there that the Sultan of Aghadez
+had given Barth a black tobe; not, by any means, a bad rumour. He sends
+his slaves to Gh�t from this place, and returns immediately to
+Damerghou, taking letters for us to Zinder.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+Medicine for Bad Eyes--A summary Proceeding--News from the
+Salt-Caravan--Towns and Villages of Tesaoua--Earthquakes--Presents for
+the Sultan of Maradee--Yusuf's Insolence--English Money in Aheer--A
+Razzia on the Holy City--Bornouese Studies--Gipsies of Soudan--En-Noor
+and the Marabouts--Ghaseb--State of the Weather--Calculations for the
+Future--Senna--Relations of Man and Wife in Aheer--En-Noor in his
+Family--Gouber and Maradee--Beer-drinking--Study of the Sau--Shara--The
+Oulimad--Lions--Translating Jokes--Digging a Well--Projects.
+
+
+_Nov. 14th._--I wrote this morning, by the slaves going to Gh�t, to Mr.
+Bidwell and my wife. En-Noor paid us a visit in the afternoon, and was
+exceedingly civil. He promises me letters for Sakkatou, and to forward
+Overweg to Maradee.
+
+Our servant shot a large vulture to-day. En-Noor having bad eyes,
+ordered the eyes of this bird of prey to be scooped out for a medicine.
+This is not the first time that I have heard of the various parts of
+animals being eaten, or otherwise used, to cure or strengthen the
+corresponding parts in human beings. It seems to be an idea natural to
+people in a rude or semi-barbarous state.
+
+En-Noor related a pretty anecdote of himself and his younger days in our
+tent to-day. After saying, that formerly the Asbenouee people were the
+only folks considered bad in these parts, he observed, that now he
+himself and the Asbenouee were certainly much improved in their manners
+and dispositions; "for," added he, "there were once four fighis
+(charm-writers) who employed people to speak against me, and bring me
+into disrepute. What did I do? I called them to me, gave them fine
+presents of burnouses and a great supper, with an apartment in which to
+pass the night. But when they were fast asleep I dug a large hole,
+fetched them all out of the room, killed them, and covered them up in
+the hole. Now, however," continued his highness, "we do not go so far as
+this, but content ourselves with taking away an enemy's camels."
+
+_15th._--Weather cold this morning. Thermometer at sunrise, 43�. I hang
+the thermometer on the tent-ropes, just outside, at about a foot from
+the ground.
+
+Hamma (son-in-law of En-Noor) returned this morning from the
+salt-caravan. He marked on the sand that the caravan would be
+thirty-five days before it returned; so, I imagine, we have still from
+this time some thirty days to wait here. He left the caravan on its
+entering the Hamadah, between this and Bilma.
+
+
+TOWNS AND VILLAGES OF TESAOUA.
+
+(_From Amankee's relation._)
+
+1. Tesaoua: people 1400; residence of the governor. Two large wells and
+one small one.
+
+2. Harmaua: 500. A little water.
+
+3. Ungua Korna: 400. One well, much water.
+
+4. Haidaua: 500. One well, and much water.
+
+5. Nuwala: 500 or 600. No water; but only half an hour from Haidaua.
+
+6. Nachira: 800, scattered about in small groups. Much water.
+
+7. Ungua-guka: 500. One well.
+
+8. Ungua-tallai: 400. Much water.
+
+9. Gindaua: 1000. Large wells; few trees.
+
+10. Saulawa: 40 or 50.
+
+The capital and nearly all this country is full of trees. Not a stone is
+to be seen, and the soil is sandy.
+
+The Sultan, or Governor of Tesaoua, is subject to the sovereign of
+Maradee, who is the only independent black prince in this part of
+Africa. The inhabitants are mixed, pagans and Muslims, but these last
+are not bigoted.
+
+En-Noor visited us this evening, and I asked him if he recollected
+earthquakes in this country. The old Sheikh emphatically replied,
+_Babo_, "There are none."
+
+_16th._--Barth has picked up a good many words in Aghadez, mostly
+correct.
+
+_17th._--It was colder this morning, although yesterday was very
+pleasant. Thermometer at sunrise, 41�.
+
+It is expected that we shall still remain here thirty days, which time,
+if divided half between Haussa and half between Bornouee, will help me
+on in these languages, the principal of the interior of Africa. Mohammed
+Tunisee is now the servant of Barth alone. Overweg has given him up.
+
+Yesterday morning I gave Overweg the presents for the Sultan of Maradee,
+to whom he intends to go on a mission, in the same way as Barth went to
+Aghadez. The presents consist of a fine burnouse, a fine shasheeah (five
+mahboubs), two pieces of coloured cotton cloth, two heads of white
+sugar, knives, scissors, cinnamon, looking-glasses, beads, &c. I hope he
+will not return without bringing back the treaty signed. He is also to
+make some arrangement for the establishment of the missionaries in
+Maradee.
+
+To-day we had prayers in Overweg's tent. I read several short prayers
+from the Church of England prayer-book, and also the Gospel and Epistle
+for the Sunday.
+
+_18th._--Yesterday evening it was cloudy, and the moon had, for several
+hours, an immense elliptical ring round it--a common phenomenon in the
+northern Sahara.
+
+To-day Yusuf got up in a rage, and threw down his writing, because I
+told him he did not take pains to obtain from the people the several
+meanings of the words. This has been the case for most of the time we
+have been occupied with the vocabulary. I have therefore left him to
+himself, since he insulted me in this manner before the servants, and I
+fear I cannot trust myself to go with him to Sakkatou. It is a great
+inconvenience, but I must search for a kateb (writer) at Zinder. There
+are many poor men of this profession in Bornou, and very faithful
+people.
+
+_19th._--His highness En-Noor continues to visit us. Yesterday I gave
+him an English silver fourpenny piece, an English farthing, and a small
+French silver coin, with all of which he was greatly delighted. He
+summed up their value in wad�; fifty wad�s are an English penny. He
+admired her majesty's face on the silver fourpence; but his shadow, the
+man who generally comes with him, said,--"Oh, no, the face of the woman
+for a Sultan is not good. _This_ is good," pointing to the head of Louis
+Philippe.
+
+The news came yesterday evening that a razzia had just been made on
+Tintaghoda, the assailants carrying away everything before them, and the
+inhabitants of the town fleeing to the mountains. This razzia was made
+by the people whom the Sultan of Aghadez has lately punished for the
+depredations committed on us and other caravans on the road. When this
+took place there were a few people at Tintalous, who, on hearing the
+news, came off immediately to us after En-Noor, so that now there does
+not remain a single inhabitant in the village. The people of the razzia
+were much disappointed at finding no more camels, all those of the
+villages hereabouts, and indeed through all Aheer, being gone to fetch
+salt from Bilma. They wished to make up the number of camels which the
+Sultan of Aghadez took away from them. Of course, when the salt-caravan
+returns, an effort will be made to avenge this insult on the holy city
+of Aheer--this profanation of the abode of marabouts! It is singular,
+nevertheless, that only a year ago some neighbouring tribes, thinking
+these holy men had too much wealth, carried off a large number of their
+camels. This is the much-vaunted place amongst the credulous Moorish
+merchants of the coast, where theft and robbery are unknown!
+
+_21st._--A foggy _November_ morning! But this change of the atmosphere
+is very rare, and soon passes away. It is amazing how steady the seasons
+are, and how they roll, each bringing its accustomed weather and tunes.
+
+Yesterday I began my Bornou studies, not knowing whether I shall go
+first to Bornou or Soudan. I intend, if my health be preserved, to make
+a dictionary of the Bornou and Soudan languages together, for the sake
+of commerce and general information. I hope Government will print it, or
+if not Government, the Philological Society.
+
+_Abizgen_ is a fruit which abounds in Aheer. It is half the size of
+small currants, and has not a disagreeable taste--a sort of bitter-sweet
+clammy taste. This fruit may be called Aheer currants.
+
+In the neighbourhood of our encampment have been seen gazelles,
+ostriches, and monkeys, in considerable numbers.
+
+_22d._--En-Noor went off yesterday morning early, to visit a great
+marabout in the neighbourhood. This will enable us to apply ourselves
+closely to the languages, all day long. Occupied as I am with Soudanese
+and Bornouese, all the days fly away swifter than arrows shot by the
+most expert archers. En-Noor is expected to return in the course of four
+or five days. We have now all the village of Tintalous with us. It is
+Tintalous encamped out in the valley.
+
+_23d._--The orient sky flamed this morning with a pure yellow flame,
+amidst a somewhat murky atmosphere.
+
+Most of the people have a fire all night. In the morning they cower over
+it like inhabitants of the poles. Of course we as well as they, having
+been baked in the summer's sun, now feel the cold most acutely.
+
+There is a species of people scattered through Soudan which correspond
+to our gipsies, called M�guz�wa (sing. B�maguzai). These are
+essentially a merry, care-nothing people, always half tipsy, and always
+full of fun. They, however, work a little in agriculture; differing from
+our gipsies, who are little more than itinerant tinkers. A boy was shown
+to me to-day, whom his parents had christened _Butu_, "worthless." It is
+related that his mother had many children before him, all of whom died,
+and when he came into the world the people or neighbours all cried,
+"_Butu! Butu!_" i.e. "He will come to nothing." Then, it is added, "God
+seeing the people gave him a bad name, determined in compassion to
+preserve his life, and so his life was preserved to this day."
+
+En-Noor returned this evening from his visit to the marabout.--It is my
+intention to send home fifty thousand African words for this expedition.
+What future expeditions may do, if my life be spared, I cannot tell. I
+speak for this. I imagine I have already sent to the Foreign Office six
+thousand. I shall have five thousand, I hope, by the time I get to
+Zinder--three of Soudanese, and two of Bornouese. I must try to get a
+few words of the Aghadez language. These I can get, probably, at
+Sakkatou. I must have another writer, or fighi. My present Bornouese
+fighi is a very poor fellow.
+
+_24th._--The Sunday soon came again, with the study of languages. Now
+the time of our waiting here does not appear to be long enough. I have a
+commercial dictionary to make.
+
+En-Noor came to us after his return from his visit to his marabout
+friend. He says of the late razzia at Tintaghoda, that the marabouts of
+that town brought it all upon themselves, being the first to begin to
+countenance attacks upon caravans (that is, ours). He does not pity
+them; he does not care for them; and, he added, "They have now lost all
+their reputation amongst the people." The fact is, when we came the
+marabouts did not know what course to take, whether to attack us or to
+receive us; so they chose the former, in their blinded judgment, and
+brought all this evil upon their heads.
+
+The Fadeea, or Kalfada�, have decamped with their booty and their
+families to the Hagar, beyond the reach of recapture or revenge.
+
+A scorpion was found in my tent to-day, running across the sandy floor.
+We look upon them now as nearly harmless, whilst the cold weather has
+deprived them of all force.
+
+_25th._--Occupied with the languages. Time passes quickly.
+
+_26th._--Began the Bornou grammar.
+
+_27th._--A visit from En-Noor. He put on one of my gloves, and was much
+amused with it. He held out his hand, and put it on the face of his
+courtiers--showing fight. It was very white, which gave him occasion to
+pass to my skin, and pity my being so white. I made several useful
+remarks on Haussa grammar, and begin to understand the genius of the
+language.
+
+A caravan of ghaseb has arrived from Damerghou, by which we learn that
+the Sfaxee and Fezzan merchants are arrived in that country. We have
+been trying to buy ghaseb of the people, or of En-Noor; but it appears
+we were too late, for it is said to be all gone. The dollars are worth
+only 1750 wad�s here, whilst in Kanou they pass for 2500. Every article
+is depreciated in value in Aheer, because food is scarce. We have,
+however, managed to purchase a bullock--a great beast.
+
+_28th._--I did not feel so well after the meat-eating; we have had so
+little of it, and so seldom, that a little extra quite upsets me, and
+the gnawing it makes all my teeth bleed. Thermometer, 50�. The weather
+has changed to mistiness, haziness. It is now reported that we still
+remain here twenty-five days longer, the caravan arriving only in twenty
+days, and five being allowed to rest the camels. So we have time enough
+for the Haussa and Bornou languages. I wish to master the grammar of
+each, so as to superintend some translation of the Scriptures.
+
+_29th._--The weather is still hazy, and warmer; but whilst it is warmer
+in the morning it is cooler in the mid-day, on account of the clouds and
+haze. Half an hour after sunrise, thermometer 56�.
+
+En-Noor says we shall start in seventeen days, but ten days more or less
+for these people are nothing. Our courier for the money has just been
+gone thirty-three days. If, happily, he arrive to day, he will save a
+week of the Shantah from Mourzuk to Tripoli. If we remain here now
+twenty-five days, and are thirty-five days more before we arrive at
+Zinder, that will be sixty days. I shall then have only twenty days more
+to wait till the expiration of the four months, when I may expect the
+courier to return. Thus I hope to have the money to pay the Sfaxee
+before I go to Sakkatou. But, alas! such calculations are extremely
+uncertain, and we cannot tell what a day may bring forth. For our
+support and safety we must repose firmly in the goodness of an Almighty
+Providence.
+
+_Nov. 30th to Dec. 3d._--The weather has been mild these last few days;
+this morning, half an hour after sunrise, thermometer 51�.
+
+En-Noor has been to pay a visit to the Sultan of Asoudee, meeting him at
+some neighbouring village. There was a council respecting the affairs of
+the tribe of the Iteesan, who are fighting amongst themselves; but no
+news has transpired since his return. The old sheikh is in good health
+and spirits, which he attributes partly to drinking my coffee twice and
+thrice a-day. He says we shall leave here in the course of twelve days.
+
+Senna is grown, or rather collected, in all the districts of Aheer; but
+it is cheap now, and does not fetch the price in Tripoli which it
+formerly did; many other as suitable purgatives being found in Europe, I
+suppose. Senna is, besides, procured from the district of the Tibboos of
+Bilma, and some of this is still sent to Tripoli. Bornou has also much
+senna, but it does not pay the expense of forwarding it to Tripoli.
+
+The relations of man and wife in Aheer are curious, if not
+extraordinary. A woman never leaves the home of her father! When a man
+marries a woman, he remains with her a few weeks, and then, if he will
+not take up his residence in the town or village of his wife, he must
+return to his own place without her. When a man sees a woman who pleases
+him, he offers the parents a price for her--say, four camels. If the
+parents agree that the price is adequate to the charms or the rank of
+their daughter, the bargain is concluded. These four camels remain
+always the property of the wife, with which she supports herself,
+sending them to Soudan or to Bilma, fetching ghaseb or salt. Many of the
+women have a large property obtained in this way. When their husbands
+visit them, they give them something to eat, and they remain a few days
+or weeks; and again depart to their own native towns, leaving the wife
+with her property, and any chance lover. But the men marry two or three
+wives, and so are constantly in motion, first going to visit one wife
+and then another. Thus the male population of this country is kept in a
+continually restless state of activity--roaming about here and there,
+marrying another and another wife, if their means will permit them. The
+women, of course, left in this way, and unrestrained by any high moral
+motives, take as many lovers as they dare, or can secretly dispose of.
+It appears that En-Noor always disapproved of this strange system, and
+swore he would never marry a wife, because he should be obliged to go to
+another town to reside there, and so be exposed to having an inferior
+position, the authorities of the town of his wife pretending to exercise
+jurisdiction over him. All his women have ever been slaves. His highness
+is now living amidst his daughters and their children--the men who
+married them being all away in their own native countries. A daughter of
+En-Noor costs ten camels, and this is considered a very high price for a
+woman. With two or three camels, a woman manages to support herself and
+children. If the husbands of En-Noor's daughters be ever so poor, he
+never gives them anything but a little food. They must come and reside
+in his town. His highness passes all his evenings amidst this circle of
+women--his female slaves, his daughters, and granddaughters.
+
+The population of Gouber and Maradee together may be about 1500.
+
+_Mar�dee_, capital of Maradee, and residence of the Siriki.
+
+_Jinubakai_ is the second division of the country, inhabited wholly by
+the pagans or gia-drinkers (beer-drinkers); not, therefore, Mahometans.
+
+_Gouber_ (Gubar), is the name of the country, of which the capital and
+residence of the sultan is _Chibri_. This country consists of a large
+city (Chibri), and several small villages, some fifty or sixty; two are
+here mentioned, Gomer and Sanna.
+
+These two countries of Gouber and Maradee are now in alliance against
+the Sultan of Sakkatou, i.e. of the Fellatahs, and mutually inflict
+razzias upon one another. Tesaoua is in close connexion with these
+ancient Kohlan countries, and is, indeed, a province of Maradee. There
+are mixed up with the population a number of people, emigrants from
+Aheer, called Buzai; but these Aheer Tuaricks have lost both their
+language and nationality, retaining merely the name, to denote their
+origin. So, in all probability, were more people and of other countries
+to emigrate to Soudan, they would soon become Soudanee, and lose their
+nationality. In these countries of Soudan above-mentioned, Mahommedanism
+has been but lately professed. But the great distinguishing mark between
+paganism and Mahommedanism appears to be the drinking or not drinking
+gia, the latter being the people who of course abstain from this
+intoxicating beverage.
+
+Overweg says, that within three-quarters of an hour's walk are found
+hereabout granite, sandstone, and basalt, a variety of stones somewhat
+remarkable.
+
+The study of _sau_, "footsteps" of men and animals, is quite a science
+in this part of the world. The Fezzanee are reckoned the most expert in
+this knowledge; they are said to be able to distinguish the footsteps of
+people when printed upon the trunk of a palm, the print-step being made
+by dipping the feet in water! As to animals, the people observe near the
+neighbouring rocks the sau of the lion--a very deep, heavy impression of
+his five claws, of the monkey, the hare, the gazelle, the fox, the
+jackal, the hy�na, the mouse, &c. &c. Indeed, we appear to be
+surrounded with animals; and in the morning I found the sau of the dog,
+the cat, the hare, and the mouse, on the sandy floor of my tent. It is
+my intention, before I leave Africa, to draw the forms of the footsteps
+of the more remarkable animals. _Inshallah!_
+
+_4th._--Visit from his highness the Sheikh every day. He is now kind
+enough to send me every morning--at the suggestion of his principal
+wife--a small can of milk, which, besides the value of the milk itself,
+saves my sugar, enabling me to drink tea and coffee without sweetening.
+This evening the _shara_ was brought of the arrival of couriers from the
+salt-caravan, to say it was near. Like the Arabs, for this shara or
+news, or first advice of the coming of something good or agreeable, the
+Kailouees ask some present. We gave a little bit of sugar to the slave
+who brought the welcome intelligence.
+
+_Dec. 5th to 9th._--I was occupied with vocabulary of Haussa and Bornou.
+Weather mild and misty, but a little cold this morning; thermometer, at
+three-quarters of an hour after sunrise, 43�.
+
+Nearly all the salt-caravan has arrived, and proceeded in advance,
+coming in small detachments. They rendezvous in a fine wady full of
+herbage, with water higher up. We are expected to leave in a few days,
+three or four at most. Nothing seems now to detain En-Noor. But the
+Fadeea have returned from the Hagar, finding themselves not pursued.
+They very naturally prefer their own fine valley in Asben to the stony,
+desert wilds of Hagars. I suppose a razzia will be executed against
+them, for the restoration of the camels of Tintaghoda, on the return of
+the salt-caravan from Soudan.
+
+En-Noor gives a tremendously unfavourable account of the Oulimad, who
+occupy the desert of Sahara between Aghadez and Timbuctoo, and keep the
+road there shut against caravans. He says, they would sleep in our tents
+in the day, eat and drink with us; but in the night they would carry
+away the tent, and make themselves clothing with it. In fact, En-Noor
+considers them the veriest barbarians in this region of Africa. There
+may be a little exaggeration in this, and the Oulimad may not be worse
+than the Hagars of Ghem�ma, or even than some of his own people. The
+Kailouees do not hunt, nor do they cultivate the soil; so that this
+country abounds with animals. Some of the country is extremely wild and
+rocky, and affords many a retired den for the lions, who descend from
+the rocks and prowl abroad for prey in great numbers. Their footmarks
+frequently cover the length and breadth of the wadys. Barth himself saw
+(very fortunately, for it is a sight seen by very few persons indeed) as
+many as five together. Monkeys also abound in great numbers. I related
+to En-Noor the anecdote, as a joke, of the monkey shaving the cat in
+Paris; but this he took seriously, for he observed, "That is nothing; I
+have seen the monkeys crack lice just like men." It is always a
+difficult matter to translate a joke to these people. Overweg has been
+out these last two days hunting for ostrich eggs, in the places which
+these birds frequent. He saw their footprints, dung, feathers, &c., and
+two specimens, but found no eggs. It appears this is a most difficult
+bird to catch.
+
+En-Noor continues to be very friendly. I get milk now every morning, for
+which I pay sugar and coffee. His highness and his people went out
+yesterday to dig a well, about two hours distant. All the water in this
+place is exhausted. It appears to be merely a deposit of rain-water
+under the sand, at a depth of from four or five to eight feet. It
+becomes, as in this case, entirely exhausted before the commencement of
+the next rains; but of course there are some springs, and many wells
+which are not dried up during the whole year.
+
+N.B.--If I remain a month at Zinder, I must make a little excursion
+amongst the Bornou villages and see the rustic life of the people; but I
+fear it will be a bad place to hear the pure Bornouese language. I still
+hope to go off early to Sakkatou, and finish quickly with Soudan. In
+these matters the Germans are better off than I am, and have not to wait
+for money.[10]
+
+ [10] Nearly the whole of this long account of a residence in
+      Aheer consists in the journals of Mr. Richardson of
+      disjointed fragments, jotted down almost without any
+      connexion. This was necessarily the case. Few incidents,
+      save an occasional visit from thieves, or a dispute with
+      that strange old gentleman, Sultan En-Noor, diversified
+      this period. However, the simple commonplace book of a
+      traveller in a totally new country can never be without its
+      interest. No doubt Mr. Richardson would have attempted, had
+      he survived, to throw all these observations into a
+      picture; but any attempt to do so on my part would have
+      probably resulted in the omission of characteristic traits,
+      and the introduction of extraneous ideas. The following
+      chapters appear to me to increase in interest, page by
+      page.--ED.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+Razzia on the Fadeea--Haussa--Names of Places--Ant-track--Circular
+Letter from Mourzuk--Vast Rock--Mustapha Bey's Letter--Effects of
+Water--Butterflies--Aspect of the Country--A Slave advanced
+to Honour--Shonshona--Herbage--Birds--Appearance of the
+Salt-Caravan--Colours of Dawn--Bilma Salt--Mode of Barter--Pass the Rock
+of Mari--Granite--Indigo Plant--Presents at Stamboul--The Sultan begs
+again--Old Men's Importunities--Baghzem--Curiosities of the
+Route--People of Damerghou--Temporary Village of Women--Country begins
+to open--Barter Transaction with Lady En-Noor.
+
+
+_Dec. 10th._--I rose before the sunrise; the coldest morning we have
+had; thermometer at half-an-hour after sunrise, 38�.
+
+It is reported that we leave here to-morrow, or the day following. There
+is arrived from Aghadez the first man of that city after the sultan,
+called Amagai. He is come here respecting the affairs of the Fadeea.
+En-Noor also asked to-day for a list of all the things taken by force
+from us on the frontiers. It appears the Sultan of Aghadez had captured
+the Sheikh of the Fadeea, or some one sheikh, and allowed him to go out
+of prison on the promise that he would restore all the things taken from
+us--but not to us; so these Sultans and Sheikhs of Aheer will probably
+get all these things back, and divide the spoil. But, nevertheless, it
+is better that the people in authority should have them, than that they
+should remain in the possession of the robbers, the lawless plundering
+tribes of the frontier. Probably these people will be more cautious how
+they plunder another caravan of Christians. It will always be a
+satisfaction to us that the robbers were made to disgorge their booty. I
+have also heard that a small camel was brought in exchange for my large
+lost one; and En-Noor sent it back, ordering them to restore the large
+camel of the boat. My camel has been to fetch salt from Bilma.
+
+The children call Tesaoua, and the countries thereabout, Haussa, and say
+it is near, and that they go on donkeys. From this it is certain this
+portion of Soudan still has the ancient name of Haussa. Afaou is merely
+the Bornou name for Haussa, there being no place or district of that
+name. All these countries have most of them two names, or two
+pronunciations of the same name; one by the natives, and one by the
+Moorish merchants and other strangers. Thus the village of En-Noor is
+called by strangers Tintalous, and by the people themselves Chintullus.
+Travellers had better adhere to the name the place has amongst the
+strangers and foreign merchants, otherwise their narrative might be
+questioned by the people abroad, who do not know the native name.
+Maradee has its native name of Mariadi, but if you were to mention this
+name in Mourzuk and Tripoli none would know the country of which you
+were speaking. In fact, it is just the same as calling Florence Firenza,
+when speaking to persons who have not travelled in Tuscany, or who are
+unacquainted with Italian. I continue much occupied with the Bornouese
+and Haussa languages, and am now collecting the names of insects and
+animals. This is extremely difficult, as for many of the animals of
+Soudan there are no Arabic names.
+
+I measured an ant-track, and found it 125 feet. The ants were fetching
+the cottony dried blossom of a withered plant, and were amazingly busy.
+The tracks did not wind much. I noticed, also, in my walk, the footmarks
+of hares and many other animals. This country is full of live things.
+
+_11th._--I rose before sunrise; this is the coldest morning I have yet
+had, according to the thermometer, which was only two degrees above the
+freezing point (34�).
+
+A circular letter arrived to-day from Aghadez, addressed to all the
+Tuaricks, written by Mustapha Bey of Mourzuk, recommending them to
+render us all necessary protection. It is dated back two months.
+Probably this letter was written on account of the unfavourable
+intelligence which reached Mourzuk respecting us. To-morrow, please God,
+we start for Soudan.
+
+_12th._--Thank God! we left our encampment of Chintagawna this morning.
+And oh, most gracious God! give us a prosperous journey, and may we be
+useful to ourselves and our fellow-creatures.
+
+We started about eleven o'clock, and went on about three hours and
+a-half. The day was very cool; the thermometer in the morning, at
+sunrise, being only three degrees above the freezing-point. We expect to
+see the water freeze on the high plains through which we are about to
+pass, before arriving at Damerghou. Our encampment is a pleasant wady,
+under a conical-formed rock of considerable elevation, perhaps 1500
+feet. We are also in a high situation, some 1000 or more feet above the
+level of the sea. There is near this rock a lower one of an oblong form,
+its sides fluted with pillars; these columnar masses are basalt. Dr.
+Overweg examined the rocks, and found the outer crust a new species of
+rock, a sort of trachite or brachite; and the interior a sort of basalt,
+or volcanic substance. The large rock is also of the same formation. Dr.
+Barth ascended the large rock.
+
+I am now told that I made a great mistake about the wording of the
+circular letter of Mustapha Bey. This letter begins by thanking the
+Tuaricks of Aheer for exterminating the Walad Suleiman! It then hints
+broadly at the necessity for the Turks in Mourzuk and the Tuaricks of
+Aheer being friends; and to maintain this friendship one important
+condition is required--that they, the Tuaricks of Aheer, shall protect
+all the merchants or other travellers passing through their country, and
+coming from Mourzuk. In the event of their committing a bad action, the
+Bey says he may be compelled to make reprisals; so it is quite clear the
+letter is written entirely on our account, and perhaps is a preliminary
+measure to making reprisals. _Nous verrons._ This letter is only
+addressed to the people of Aheer.
+
+If water be the sustaining and even the generative force of vegetation
+in the desert, it is also the destruction of trees and herbage; for
+along the line of the current of the wady are seen immense numbers of
+dead and overthrown trees, torn from their roots by the force of the
+water in the rainy season. En-Noor paid me a visit this afternoon, and
+took a nap in my tent.
+
+_13th._--We rose early, but did not start till about nine o'clock. This
+was the coldest day we have yet experienced: the heavens were overcast
+with clouds. We came five hours; our course irregular, but always
+south-east; the track through wadys filled with the usual trees of the
+tholukh species. Yesterday were seen numbers of large butterflies, but
+to-day, on account of the cold, few. Flies innumerable follow the
+caravan. The rocks were, as yesterday, many conic-formed, and others
+rounded or appearing in ranges, like huge haycocks: granite, sandstone,
+and trachite. We have in the distance before us, a peculiarly shaped
+rock of considerable height, called _Mari_, in the midst of a range. We
+are encamped in the bed of an immense broad valley, and camels are
+feeding about in considerable numbers. The salt-caravan is very near. We
+are not yet in the regular caravan route, _vi�_ Asoudee, but expect to
+reach it after to-morrow. En-Noor has with him as a guest the principal
+man of Aghadez, before mentioned. This man was once a slave, but by his
+address has risen thus high, as the slaves frequently do in Turkey: so
+widely do similar manners prevail. Many slaves in Soudan rise to the
+highest consequence.
+
+The _shonshona_ (or practice of scarifying the face or neck) prevails
+everywhere in Bornou, Soudan, and all this part of Africa; the Tuaricks
+and Fellatahs being the only people who abstain from this barbarous
+practice. Each device of scarifying denotes the peculiar nation of the
+blacks. I have now got three sketches of faces thus disfigured, and
+shall get as many as I can.
+
+The Mahommedans of the coast usually teach that this way of marking the
+body is a sin, but nevertheless the black Muslims will not abandon the
+peculiarities of their nation.
+
+_14th._--Started early, but made only two hours and a-quarter, through
+the expansive valleys of yesterday. Here we found the salt-caravan,
+there being in this place abundance of room, herbage, and a large well,
+all necessary for such an assembly of people and beasts. On the road we
+put up a covey of partridges, and a splendid solitary bird, the _hobara_
+of Soudan. Footprints of the hares and of the gazelle were observed _en
+route_.
+
+By this opportunity we have got a few dates from Bilma; but they are
+very poor, some of them little better than dried wood. The salt-caravan
+has nothing attractive. The salt is all tied up in small bales or
+bundles, the outward wrapper being matting or platting of strips of the
+leaves of the doom-palm, called by the people _kabba_. Our caravan
+resembles the march of a wandering tribe, there being camels, sheep,
+oxen, asses, dogs, with all the paraphernalia of tents, cooking
+utensils, &c. Some of the animals are laden, some unladen, playing,
+running, and skipping about. Then come the human animals, men, women,
+and children of every age. Our own caravan is mostly composed of the
+household and slaves of En-Noor, with two or three strangers. But now
+all changes to the salt-caravan, and we shall probably be soon absorbed
+in it.
+
+Yesterday morning I observed the dawn of day, and witnessed a degree of
+redness and red clouds, or, more poetically, rosy-tinted clouds, which I
+never before observed in all the Sahara. Probably now the sky will
+change to a colouring more like England. Sunset and sunrise in the
+Sahara are essentially different from those of England, the colours in
+the desert being exceedingly light and bright; and often in the summer
+time, at daybreak, there is a full, blazing sun in the course of three
+quarters of an hour; so that, that rich colouring of the summer's dawn
+in England is never here observed.
+
+I visited the salt-caravan, or that portion of it which belongs to
+En-Noor. The salt is prepared in Bilma, by the Tibboos, in three
+different manners. There is, first, the _canto_, a kind of pillar or
+pedestal, about 16 inches high, and 3 or 4 broad in its widest part. As
+to weight, 10 of these are a good camel-load, 8 a load for a small
+camel, and 6 for a weak camel. Then there are two cakes, one of refined
+salt and the other coarse. These coarse cakes are about 5 inches in
+diameter, and the refined ones 7 inches, the former being about 3lbs.
+and the latter 5lbs. in weight. When a caravan of Tuaricks arrive at
+Bilma, they find the salt all ready for them, and they pay a barter for
+it in this way,--a zekka of ghaseb is exchanged against twenty of the
+coarse cakes; a zekka for six of the refined cakes, and three zekkas of
+ghaseb for two of the pillars. Ghaseb appears to be the only staple
+thing which the Tibboos receive for their salt; they may also take now
+and then turkadias, or black turbans, and on the other side the Tuaricks
+bring a few dates with them: the fruit, even those of the best quality,
+are not very good or fine. This commerce of barter is managed almost
+solely by the women: the men remain in their houses, whilst the women go
+to the salt-pits or lakes, and transact this important business; but the
+men do not run away, as is commonly reported. At least, so say the
+Tuaricks. The supply of salt is inexhaustible. It is, probably, on
+account of the weight of the salt, and the fatigue of the camels which
+carry it, with the distance, that this commerce is not very profitable
+to the Tuaricks; but this can only be ascertained in the markets of
+Kanou, and other large cities of Soudan. There are only six months to
+the rainy season, so I have just time to go to Sakkatou and return,
+without waiting long at any of the intermediate places between Sakkatou
+and Kuka.
+
+Our encampment is under some rocks, where are seen the dens of lions. At
+the mouth of these caves or holes are bones of animals and the dung of
+the lions.
+
+_15th._--I rose early, but we did not start till two hours after
+sunrise. The caravan was a considerable time in loading. We have only
+with us En-Noor's detachment of the salt-caravan, about 130 camels. We
+may be quicker in our movements to-morrow. The first morning of starting
+is always thus slow. We came to-day five hours: passed the picturesque
+rock Mari, like a camel couchant, and entered after three hours the
+Asoudee route, or the direct caravan route from Gh�t to Damerghou,
+through Aheer. Another detachment of the salt-caravan passed or crossed
+us, and took another route to the east. Our course was always
+southwards, now S.E. now S.W., through wadys filled with trees, mostly
+tholukh and its varieties; the rocks were all granite. Aheer appears to
+be a region essentially of granite, although here and there are volcanic
+cones striking up, composed of basalt, or a variety of this stone. The
+weather was very cloudy and cold, only a little warm in the middle of
+the day. We have not come to water or wells for three days, because our
+journeys are very short. To-day I saw, for the first time, the indigo
+plant--_neela_ in Arabic, and _bala_ in Soudanese. I was glad to make
+its acquaintance. It grows amongst the other herbage, and may be easily
+confounded with it as a common herb. It is now in seed, the pods being
+small and very hard. This is one of the products capable of working the
+regeneration of Africa, if Africa is to be civilised by legitimate
+commerce.
+
+En-Noor asked to-day if, on entering Constantinople, we English made
+presents. I told him very positively, "No;" but, on the contrary,
+everything which the English demanded of the Sultan of the Turks he did
+for us; and because the Sultan was weak, England was obliged to protect
+him against the encroachments of the other Christian nations.
+
+I was much surprised to hear to-day that En-Noor begged a black burnouse
+from Barth. The old Sheikh is a Tuarick every inch of him. Nevertheless,
+it is too bad to beg the things which we wear to protect us from the
+cold and the heat. Barth, I believe, has not yet made the Sheikh a
+present, and he is coming Hateetah over my worthy friend. Overweg has
+given the Sheikh a cloth jacket, which he could ill spare. I feel most
+determinedly disposed to give nothing more; but in justice I have to
+add, that his highness sends regularly the milk in the morning, that he
+gave me a piece of gour-nut on the road, and that he sent me a few dates
+at my request! These are great things for Tuaricks; so, "patience."
+
+_16th._--I rose at daylight; the cold was moderate, morning foggy as
+yesterday. People say we shall be only nine days from this going to
+Damerghou, but I will give them twelve. All the old men in this country
+apply to the Taleb for medicine to restore their powers. They very
+unwillingly relinquish the exercise of the functions which give them
+most delight; but nature is stronger than all things, and they must
+submit to its inevitable course. In a country like Africa, where woman
+is only thought of for one purpose, it chagrins these old fellows to see
+all their nice plump slave-girls about them, and to find themselves past
+and gone, so far as this state of existence is concerned. En-Noor and
+Hateetah both made this kind of application to the Taleb. When I was
+alone in my former journey in the desert, I had also the same kind of
+experience.
+
+We came two hours to-day to the well of Anfesas, before the mountain of
+Baghzem. Our course was through valleys and rocks, as yesterday, and,
+indeed, always in this country; for there is very little variation in
+the landscape. Baghzem, instead of being the high mountain pictured to
+me by the Ghadamsee merchants, is, at this view of it, only a low range.
+Two little things observed to-day were, first, a "traveller's sharpening
+stone," on which every person passing by sharpened his dagger or his
+sword: next, were heaps of sand scraped together, and sticks or stalks
+of herbage stuck on the top, as frail marks of the route, corresponding
+to the heaps of stone which mark in line the routes of the Sahara. There
+was also a mosque formed of boughs of trees; that is, a low wall of the
+groundplan of a mosque made of boughs of trees, like the walls of stone
+in other places. The trees were as before, always those full of thorns,
+like the tholukh; many of the species bearing what is called the date of
+this country. No animals of game were seen, except a solitary hare; but
+there were marks of the foot of the mohur, or large gazelle.
+
+The lading of the camels in the morning takes always an hour and a-half:
+we have few people, compared with the number of beasts of burden.
+
+However, under the leadership of En-Noor, who has now decked himself in
+a fine yellow burnouse, a sort of ensign of authority, the caravan
+marches in great order and tranquillity.
+
+The inhabitants of Damerghou are said to be a mixture of Kohlans and
+Tuaricks; the latter, however, receding into the interior. But if the
+Tuaricks have dispossessed the Kohlans, they have almost become Kohlans
+themselves, forgetting their own language and their own customs and
+manners. This would naturally result from their habit of taking female
+slaves from Soudan. Women, of course, always teach their children their
+own language. In this way the population becomes in a few years
+amalgamated, the blacks with Tuaricks.
+
+_17th._--We stopped here all day, occupied with Bornouese. The place is
+pleasant enough, there being a good well of water. A little temporary
+village stands near, composed of the women and children belonging to the
+salt-caravan.
+
+_18th._--We halted again another day. After this rest of three days for
+the camels, we are to go on quicker. Overweg paid a visit to the
+temporary village, principally to see the women, taking with him the
+M�lem Ibrahim. He was pleasantly received, and notes the fact as the
+first specimen of Soudan hospitality. I also made an excursion of an
+hour to a neighbouring eminence, where I had a view from the top of a
+quartz rock of the surrounding landscape of stony hills and valleys. On
+the east and west were ranges and groups of mountains; on the north-east
+and towards Bilma, and on the south-west round the mountain of Baghzem,
+the country appeared open. North and south were rocks. In the direction
+of our route (south-east) the rocks seem scattered and at wide
+distances, so I expect we shall soon bid farewell to the mountains of
+Aheer. The celebrated mount of Baghzem is a mighty mass of rock, not
+high, but apparently of immense breadth. The town of Baghzem is on the
+western side, and out of our route.
+
+I had a little clandestine transaction with Madame En-Noor to-day. She
+sent me cheese and milk, and I sent her a ring. The slaves brought the
+cheese stealthily: so, I suppose, the Sultan was not to know of it. But
+they say that all the goats belong to the women, and, consequently, the
+milk and cheese; but the camels to the men; some women, however, have
+camels. There is a sort of division of male and female property in this
+country.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+We continue our Journey--Huntsmen--Gum on the Tholukhs--The
+Salt-Caravan--A Bunch of Gum--Games among the
+Slaves--Baghzem--Trees--Palm of Pharaoh--Deserted Villages--Birds'
+Nests--Wife of En-Noor--Unan--Lizards--Bad News--Christmas
+day in Africa--Christmas-boxes--Begging Tuaricks
+again--Bargot--Musicians--Speculations--Tribes at War--Parasitical
+Plant--Importance of Salt--Animals--Agalgo--Force of the Caravan--Beat
+of Drum--Approach the Hamadah--Giraffes--Poisoned Arrows--Ear of
+Ghaseb--Soudan and Bornou Roads.
+
+
+_Dec. 19th._--We started early, and journeyed on eight hours and
+a-half--the best day we have had since leaving Tintalous. Our course
+still towards that immense block of mountain, the celebrated Baghzem. We
+are now encamped along its side. We crossed a large wady with
+ancient-looking trees, having antiquity, in fact, stamped on their
+trunks, all of the tholukh species. The sand of this desert is covered
+with the footsteps or marks of the gazelle and hare; but we saw only one
+gazelle and one hare. The gazelle was followed by a stupid mongrel-bred
+dog; it jumped high in the air, and was soon out of sight. The Kailouees
+are no huntsmen. I question whether they have ever caught a gazelle or
+any full-grown animal in their lives; they are a stupid set, and their
+dogs worse still in field-sport, though always living in the desert.
+There are huntsmen amongst the Haghars. The Kailouees prefer running
+down men, or rather women. All they think of is riding or straying from
+place to place after the women--this is their sport.
+
+This may be called a country of dry wadys. The name is appropriate all
+the year round, except on the few days when the floods are seen pouring
+down these seeming beds of rivers. Hereabouts are the largest tholukh
+and other trees found in Aheer. Those that grow on high ground are
+small, but from their trunks are picked off, by the slaves, pieces of
+gum. To-day, however, I could not succeed in getting a piece. What was
+found was carried to En-Noor. I shall soon get a taste of it. We
+continue with our same number of camels; no other detachments of the
+large salt-caravan have yet joined us. En-Noor is still very active,
+riding before and behind, seeing that all is right. He is followed by
+his shadow. He wears his yellow burnouse. I have heard of no town on
+this side of Baghzem.
+
+An immense quantity of stone is scattered over the route hereabouts.
+Overweg believes it to be basalt, or a species of volcanic stone of
+similar character.
+
+I am preparing myself for my Soudan journeys, and, _en route_, take as
+much rest as possible. Cold winds prevail night and morning, but the sun
+burns a few hours in the day. Certainly now is the best season for
+travelling in this country. What it is in Soudan it is impossible to
+tell.
+
+_20th._--We rested to-day. There is a well a short distance off, called
+Tilya. This morning early filed by a large division of the salt-caravan,
+about three hundred camels. We passed them yesterday. They had also a
+little merchandise besides salt. Some of the people inquired of me if I
+had found my camels. I told them two were still missing. They were all
+strangers, but were, nevertheless, civil. I made a short excursion in
+search of gum amongst the tholukh-trees. I was fortunate enough to find
+one piece, or, rather, a small bunch of pellucid drops, of a bright
+amber-colour. The bunch was scarcely exuding from the tree on which it
+was found, and was ready to drop when touched, hanging by the slenderest
+connexion. It was even somewhat disposed to become liquid. This gum is
+found only on the small young trees. The taste was very pleasant. It is
+astonishing how little gum has been picked off these trees by our
+people, although we have passed tens of thousands of them _en route_.
+
+The slaves of the caravan were having a game amongst themselves this
+morning. They brought into my tent a man bound as dead, and I was
+obliged to pay a handkerchief to relieve myself of the bad omen. Such a
+thing is considered a horrible thing if you do not buy away the ill
+effects of it. This is certainly an easy way of collecting money and
+goods. It was, however, amusing to see the fellow, how still he lay;
+truly it was as still as death. The ceremony itself arose out of the
+culprit, or man bound, having lost our camels, a circumstance which has
+detained us here to-day. The herdsman was thus punished for his neglect;
+and so all these African people have an amusing way of turning their
+misfortunes into fun, as well as of making a profit out of them. I have
+already observed before, that every misfortune we have suffered has been
+a benefit to the Kailouees. This has made them so careless about what
+might happen to us.
+
+_21st._--Our course was generally nearly south, but often a little
+winding. Baghzem was always on our right, until we left it behind us, on
+the north-west. This mountain has, probably, been so much celebrated in
+all past times, because it is the most conspicuous object on the return
+route from the south to the north. Overweg conjectures that it is
+granite. He had no servant at hand yesterday to visit it with him, and
+he did not like to go alone, because it swarms with lions.
+
+We passed to-day mostly through undulating country, a sort of ground
+which, in the Sahara, lies generally between the plateaux and the high
+rocky ranges. From one of the lesser heights we had a magnificent view
+of Baghzem. We passed also through and along several fine wadys, lined
+with ancient trees. Perhaps, in some places, full half of the trees were
+decayed, and many only naked stumps. The trees were so thick in certain
+places as to deserve the name of forests--primeval forests--but, I
+imagine, not to be compared with those of America.
+
+Amongst the trees to-day appeared most conspicuously the doom-palm. This
+is the first day we have seen it in such numbers. This "palm of
+Pharaoh," as the Moors call it, according to their habit of coupling all
+strange things with those ancient monarchs, is found in groups as well
+as isolated trees. When isolate, and also when in groups, it very
+frequently assumes a double-shaped trunk, or two large arms spread out
+or divided from a low stump.[11] Of the leaves, which are called
+_gabba_, the people make all their rope.
+
+ [11] I believe the trunk of the doom is always thus divided and
+      subdivided.--ED.
+
+These trees are now laden with fruit, not ripe. The abundance of them
+gives to the place of our encampment a truly tropical aspect. We
+journeyed on to-day eight hours and a-half--a good, fair day. The
+weather was warm, even a little sultry. As to inhabitants, we passed
+many isolated huts, but saw no villages in groups. We also passed the
+ruins of many villages, whose houses were better built than any I have
+yet seen in this part of Aheer. This country has seen its best days; for
+the huts which now take the place of these houses, high and well-built
+of stone and mud, are, indeed, miserable. Probably these deserted places
+are some of the towns whose people were carried off to Bornou in the
+recent razzias. At the bottom of most of the wadys to-day, water was
+found at a foot depth, though not a copious supply. People were at the
+wells in numbers, watering their cattle.
+
+En-Noor paid me another attention to-day, when on camel-back, in
+presenting to me a piece of gour-nut. This is considered a very great
+compliment. As to the fruit itself, I have not yet acquired the taste;
+it is only agreeable if you are thirsty, and after chewing it drink
+water.
+
+_22d._--We remain here to-day. It is not so cold as it has been.
+
+I am sorry Madame En-Noor has left off the milk, though I never cease to
+send coffee twice a-day. I must now, however, send but once, as my sugar
+is getting low.
+
+I observed the beautiful bird's nest which I mentioned the other day. It
+is a perfect piece of architecture, far superior to the huts made in
+this country. The only apparent deficiency is, that it seems to hang on
+nothing, or is suspended sometimes on a slender straw, at other times on
+a thin twig. The nest is built of straw inside and outside, but the
+inside is of a finer straw. I have not seen the bird who is the
+architect of this wonderful piece of mechanism. I observed two species
+of parasitical plants, one of which has a slender trunk, and has its
+root in the earth; and the other, which is entirely dependent on the
+tree over which it spreads for all its support and nourishment. Its
+roots are in the very boughs of the tree which bears it. Some of our
+blacks, who were carried over the desert when young, and had not seen or
+observed this phenomenon before, burst out laughing. These comicalities
+of vegetation amused them exceedingly. What excites the serious
+attention of cultivated minds often produces only laughter in vulgar and
+untutored people. Parasitical plants would be a complete study for the
+botanist here. The doom-tree has a smaller and rounder-shaped head than
+the common date-palm; the leaves are spread out very like a fan, but I
+know not whether the doom is called the fan-shaped palm.
+
+We are to stay at this place some time--there appears to be no hurry. We
+shall probably be here three days more. The Sultan of Asoudee is
+visiting amongst us, and has concerted with En-Noor that all the
+caravans shall go together, in order that no one portion of it shall
+arrive before the other in Damerghou, and so get the ghaseb cheaper; as,
+of course, the early arrivals generally get the better bargains. At
+first I could not understand the reason of our all going together; now
+the thing is clear enough.
+
+En-Noor called at my tent in the evening, and was very civil. I got a
+little milk afterwards for the tea sent him. The royal family appear now
+to be short of milk. I find that his royal highness has in reality only
+one wife, who is a slave. In an African point of view, however, even
+this is too much. His highness confessed to Overweg that God gave man
+his limited time in this as in all things. Had the beating I have
+recorded any relation to this bitter reflection?
+
+When the sun is down, the landscape around begins to look like Old
+England, the species of trees not being visible. The doom reminds me of
+the shorn elms along the hedges.
+
+_23d._--The Sultan of Asoudee sent this morning for powder, and was
+thankful for a small quantity. We remained here this day. All the
+valleys and country around are called _Unan_. This is also the name of a
+well near us, but water is usually obtained by scooping out the sand in
+the bed of the valleys, and there are few regular wells; those which are
+dug are destroyed as soon as the rain returns. Such alone remain entire
+as are out of the reach, or beyond the range of the periodic floods.
+
+_24th._--We were not to come on to-day; but En-Noor changed his mind,
+and we journeyed on five hours, up the valley of Unan. The eternal
+sameness of the tholukh and doom--for dooms are now in great
+numbers--would be wearisome, had we not had so much desert before; but
+we are still delighted with the continual occurrence of trees, be they
+of what species they may. There is, besides, a great abundance of wild
+water-melons, which the people sometimes eat. They are very small, but
+hard and sound. The lizard, which almost through the whole desert was
+found darting about and around the camels' feet, has now disappeared. It
+would be a curious inquiry for a naturalist to endeavour to account for
+its disappearance, for the nature of the soil has not so much changed.
+The only difference--but perhaps this is great for the lizard--is that
+hereabouts occur periodic rains, which deluge the land for a few days in
+the year; and during these few days, probably, all the land lizards
+found in low places would be destroyed.
+
+This is Christmas-eve; a sorry one for us all! We receive no news but
+bad news. For to-day a man came up to us, who said he left Tripoli three
+months ago, and that the cholera had been very severe in Tripoli, making
+many victims; but he brought no particular news for us. He came by the
+way of Ghadamez and Gh�t, and yet had heard nothing of our misfortunes
+on the frontier. I suppose the people of Gh�t had already ceased to talk
+about us and our affairs; for here in the desert, as elsewhere, things
+are soon forgotten. We saw little of the rest of the caravan _en route_,
+but if we ever see the whole of the camels going with us, and the
+division of Aghadez, I am quite sure they will never reach the
+exaggerated number of 10,000! All numbers are dreadfully exaggerated in
+Africa.
+
+_25th._--Christmas-day! My second Christmas day in Africa during this
+journey. We have nothing to make a merry day of; but we must try and
+cheer ourselves up by the thought that we are still spared, after
+passing through so many dangers, and amidst a people naturally hostile
+to us, and only softened by fear of the Turks, and by possession of the
+goods of the Government, which they have taken one way or other. Yet
+some of the people appear of a more kindly nature, and Overweg has
+experienced a little hospitality in the huts retired from the road, or
+sequestered in the surrounding valleys.
+
+Gracious God! make us all thankful for health and strength: may we ever
+praise thy protecting care of us and our mission. For the sake of our
+Saviour, born on this day, pardon all our sins; give us grace to lead a
+new life, and a most willing mind to receive Jesus as the Lord our
+righteousness! O God, have mercy upon all our friends and relations, and
+give them the will to receive the Saviour, born on this day, as their
+only chance of salvation! O God, have mercy upon Africa, and on all men!
+
+Some musicians came this morning to salute us with a little of their
+rough music, a drum and a clarionet. I gave them three rings and a
+little sugar. I have very little to bestow, and were I to be more
+generous, or to make an effort to give them anything like a Christmas
+gift, I should then have all the people upon me, begging everything I
+had left. Yesterday I spoke a few words to Hamma, son-in-law of En-Noor,
+and he immediately asked me for a turban. I had not spoken to him for
+several weeks, or only saluted him with a few words, in order to avoid
+his begging. This man has already had from me presents to the amount of
+fifty dollars! Thus I am cut off from all conversation with these
+people, and have no practice in speaking the languages of the interior.
+I must try to get on better than this. Overweg, as doctor, is better
+off. The sick, and the people who bring the sick, must talk to him, and
+must receive a favour from him. And he frequently gets a few cheeses in
+return. The women make extraordinary propositions. The other day they
+offered him a slave or a bullock for a medicine to produce a child.
+
+The place of our encampment is called Bargot, which I believe is also
+the name of a well, near or about an hour and a-half distant. I have
+also heard the name of Bergu. Yesterday we passed some ruins of houses,
+built of stone and mud. I am glad that Barth borrowed my Bible, and is
+reading to-day. Overweg also was the first to propose prayers on Sundays
+when we are staying long together in one place.
+
+We are now near the Hamadah, which is a journey of full four days
+without water. We arrive at the water on the morning only of the fifth
+day. I gave a Christmas-box to all the servants of the expedition, seven
+persons, each a cotton handkerchief and a ring. This is all I could
+spare. Yusuf had a silk handkerchief and no ring. The kind of ring
+esteemed here is one having a good imitation of a stone, and the metal
+is as good as gold for these people. With the exception of the Gatronee
+and my mahadee, the rest ill deserved their Christmas-box, but it is
+necessary to forget and to forgive. However, I am now more strict with
+them, as we are leaving the Tuaricks, amongst whom some of our servants
+became almost Tuaricks themselves in manners.
+
+The Sultan of Asoudee is still with us, and keeps up a sort of state
+about him, although he is a poor weak fellow indeed, compared to
+En-Noor. He has not paid us a visit, and we have not seen him. En-Noor,
+probably, does not wish to bother us with such a visit. The musicians
+who saluted us this morning came from him, but they did not know it was
+a feast-day of Christians, and only came to pick up what they could get.
+I sent Madame En-Noor a piece of white loaf-sugar, and told her it was a
+Christmas-box. She received it with many thanks; so I have chronicled
+all our doings this day. I read the two first chapters of St. Luke in
+Arabic. We had no provisions, or anything with which we could produce
+the resemblance of a plum-pudding. As to roast beef, we have some bits
+of preserved beef, which we eat with our baseen and hamsa.
+
+Amidst so many uncertainties in Central Africa we may not see another
+Christmas-day. O God! whenever the time of our departure is come, may we
+be found relying for salvation on that Saviour, thine only-begotten Son,
+born on this day.
+
+Overweg and I conversed late at night on the mechanism of the heavens,
+and the antiquity of the world, according to the received theories of
+astronomers and geologists; the dark and black vault above, sprinkled
+over with brilliant points, being the object which first set our
+thoughts in motion. The stars are time itself, and also illustrations of
+the passage of light through the universe. The earth was once a hotter
+orb, passing successively from a vaporous to a fluid, and then a solid
+state. The northern climes were once torrid zones, from the evidence of
+the fossil remains and from coals, which are masses of tropical trees.
+Such were the speculations in which we indulged.[12]
+
+ [12] I have not thought it advisable to abridge or alter this
+      _na�ve_ account of a Christmas-day on the southern borders
+      of the Sahara. Mr. Richardson seems already to feel certain
+      presentiments of the fate that awaited him. In other places
+      I have omitted devotional passages; but in this it seemed
+      to me that it would be unjust to the memory of this amiable
+      traveller to do so.--ED.
+
+_26th._--We stay here to-day. There is some trouble amongst those
+restless tribes, the Kaltadak and Kalfada�; and Yusuf was sent for this
+morning by En-Noor to write some letters for him to these marauding
+tribes. They are fighting amongst themselves. The route from the North
+will never be safe for Europeans until these tribes are properly
+subjugated; and when will that time come? It is now reported that we all
+go to Zinder. I shall be glad of this opportunity to get a few dollars,
+and then make the best of my way to Sakkatou. But our delay here renders
+this trip always less certain, and seems to point out that I shall go
+first to Bornou.
+
+The most frequent parasitical plant, which is found upon nearly all the
+tholukhs, is called _koushi_ in Haussa, and _barango_ in Bornou. It is a
+fine plant, and its flower is not unlike the woodbine or honeysuckle,
+but devoid of all fragrance. The leaves are succulent, full of moisture,
+in shape a long oval, the longest not more than an inch and a quarter.
+This parasite also fastens itself on other trees, and often kills the
+branches from which it draws its strength--a real sap-sucker. The
+karembo frequently dies in its embraces.
+
+Hamma, the son-in-law of En-Noor, is not to go with us, on account of
+the quarrels with the Kalfada� and the Kaltadak. He is exceedingly
+disappointed, for it deprives him of making anything for himself in
+Haussa; and En-Noor keeps him very poor indeed, as his highness does
+everybody about him.
+
+The salt-caravan is the affair of life and death for Aheer; and the
+reason is now clear to me why it is that En-Noor goes every year with
+it, and directs and superintends its movements. This is the greatest
+service he can render to his country, and the Kailouees generally.
+Without this salt the population of Aheer would soon all perish, or
+emigrate to Soudan. The other commerce of the country could not suffice
+for the support of the inhabitants.
+
+_27th._--We had a visit from the people of the country before starting;
+they appear to be a fine race of men, whiter than most of the Kailouees,
+and nearly all tall. In these nomade districts the weakly children
+generally die off, leaving only the robust. We journeyed on southwards
+five hours, through wadys formed by the force of the waters, gradually
+approaching the great Hamadah. The doom now disappeared, and most of the
+trees dependent on much water; for here the wadys are all shallow.
+Footmarks of the ostrich, gazelle, hare, habara, and some other
+interesting animals, cover this portion of the desert. The gazelles have
+more room, and the ostriches also. The former, besides, are out of the
+way of the lion; for this beast seldom pursues its prey across the
+desert plains.
+
+People say we shall see many animals in the Hamadah, because the lion
+does not come there. A large gazelle was taken this evening by some of
+the caravan.
+
+A few locusts and many fine butterflies were busy about. We are encamped
+at a place called Agalgo, or Agallegu. There is a well at the distance
+of an hour; so that the number of days during which no water is found is
+reduced to three: but this water is a sort of collection from the rain
+remaining beyond its time, and is not always found.
+
+We are now on the edge of the plateau. En-Noor said to-day, "There are
+five thousand camels with us;" but I question whether there be more than
+two thousand. It is of great importance to ascertain this, for thus only
+the force of the country may be estimated. We are now said to be eight
+days from Damerghou.
+
+The Sultan of Asoudee has detained many of En-Noor's young people, to
+protect the country in case there be any troubles with the Kalfada�.
+
+Several pieces of scoria, or lava, were found on the road, showing a
+district here once to have had active volcanoes. The granite begins to
+disappear, to be replaced by sandstone. This sandstone, generally,
+according to Overweg, forms plateaux; whereas granite is found in rocks
+and ridges in the midst of valleys.
+
+_28th._--We started early. The camels move on at the beginning of their
+day's work to the beating of the _kanga_, or drum. We have two or three
+drums, but the drummers have little skill, and the beating is always the
+same monotonous sound. Our course varied from S.E. to S.W., but lay
+always southward, through shallow valleys, or low, indented, or
+scooped-out plains; the whole country being what the people call
+_hamadah_, or plateau. All the large trees have disappeared with the
+doom-palm. Nevertheless there are everywhere the marks of water. Yet the
+rain cannot fall here so much as in the mountainous regions which we
+have left behind, for it is high ground only which brings down the rain
+in Africa; except, indeed, near the equator. As yesterday, the sand and
+soft earth are covered with the footmarks of gazelles, ostriches, the
+habara, and even the giraffe. The people, in fact, say we shall see the
+giraffe before we arrive at Damerghou. But of these animals, who have
+left thus the impression of their feet on the sand, we saw not one.
+Indeed it is quite a matter of luck to fall in with animals in the
+desert. I have seen but very few. My colleagues have both encountered
+lions and monkeys, neither of which have I seen.
+
+We have come to-day seven hours and a-half, a very good march for
+En-Noor. The nights are cold enough; there is also a fresh breeze,
+generally from north-east, every day: nevertheless, the sun burns hot.
+The sky has always now a few clouds, and the atmosphere is a little
+thick and misty. We have with us various queer characters; amongst the
+rest, a fellow who boasts of his having killed many people with poisoned
+arrows. When I come near him I always attack him, not, indeed, with his
+favourite weapon, but with irony. I tell him, "Ah! poisoned arrows kill
+many people.--What matters it?--There is no God" (looking up, and saying
+_Babo Allah!_) This has had its effect once or twice, and he has
+confessed it is not so very fine to kill people with poisoned arrows.
+
+Evening came on, but I heard nothing of water. We are encamped near a
+small hill. I looked to-day again attentively at our strings of camels.
+Instead of five thousand, I do not believe there are more than five
+hundred. We have few people with us in comparison with the number of
+camels, and these are many of them slaves of the masters who are
+remaining behind in Aheer. The disturbed state of the country has
+prevented many persons of consequence from joining us. To-day, my
+mahadee brought me an ear of ghaseb, of immense length--about three
+times the length of the ghaseb grown in Ghadamez and other oases of the
+Sahara; nine times the length of an ear of wheat. This was found growing
+on the road, and intimates that we are approaching Soudan very fast. I
+also picked up to-day camomile flowers and the senna-plant.
+
+Explanation of Soudan and Bornou common words for articles of dress,
+food, instruments for manufacturing:--
+
+_Jebus_, leathern bag.
+
+_Foofoo_, paste of Indian corn.
+
+_Bouza_, a species of beer. In Waura, near the western coast, it is made
+of guinea-corn, honey, Chili pepper, a root of coarse grass; in Kanou
+and Wada� it is made of only ghaseb and honey, and is therefore more
+pure and agreeable. It is called by some, acid beer.[13]
+
+_Kolla_, the gour-nut, called "African," or "Soudan."
+
+_Shea_, the butter-tree.
+
+_Manioc_, root. The main article of food in Congo, used as flour.
+
+ [13] In Egypt it is made of rice.--ED.
+
+I trust, under the auspices of a good Providence, to arrive strong in
+Soudan. There our greatest enemy is fever! I walked a little to-day, and
+found myself better for the exercise; but, as a rule, I avoid exposing
+myself to fatigue.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+Enter the Hamadah--Home of the Giraffe--Water of
+Chidugulah--Turtles--Cool Wind--Jerboahs--Centre of the
+Sahara--New-year's Eve--Cold Weather--Birds of Prey--Soudan
+Date--Burs--Animals on the Plateau--Young Ostrich--The
+Tholukh-tree--Severe Cold--Eleven Ostriches--Termination of the
+Desert--Inasamet--The Tagama--Purchases--People begin to
+improve--Fruit of the Lote-tree--Village roofed with Skins--Vast
+Plain--Horses--Approach Damerghou--Village of Gumrek--Rough
+Customers--Wars of the Kilgris and Kailouees--A small
+Lake--Guinea-hens--Vultures--Party of Huntsmen.
+
+
+_Dec. 29th._--About five hours after we started, the route opened into a
+_bon� fide_ hamadah. All around us stretched a limitless plain. Our
+course lay always south, and we journeyed ten hours, with sand in the
+evening.
+
+Yesterday I had observed a few footmarks of the giraffe, but to-day they
+were everywhere visible. They were double, as this animal does not move
+its feet one after another, like the camel or the horse, but two of its
+feet together, or simultaneously. We saw the footprints of young as well
+as old ones. This plateau is the real home of the giraffe. No place
+could be better adapted for such an unwieldy creature. There is
+abundance of small tholukh, on which it feeds; all the country is open
+around to it, and it is out of the reach of ferocious animals. Towards
+the evening the marks of the giraffe disappeared, and were succeeded by
+the footprints of what is here called the wild ox (but which Overweg
+believes to be a large species of gazelle), so that one animal appears
+to have made room for the other. The day was cool and cloudy.
+
+The plain is intersected with shallow beds and streams, and in some
+places evident marks of an abundance of water in the rainy season.
+
+_30th._--We started early for the well, but did not reach it till late
+in the evening, after a march of nine hours. The well is called
+Chidugulah, and is situated on the side of a valley of some depth. In
+the bed of this valley Overweg found some infusoria, clay or stone.
+
+Many people started in the night to get water, and give their animals a
+drink. There is but a small supply, and what there is has a muddy,
+chocolate colour. The last water we took up from the valleys of Asben
+had a milky hue, so that when the coffee was made of it, it looked like
+_caf� au lait_.
+
+Bandits and hostile tribes frequent this well of Chidugulah, and rest
+hereabouts to pillage caravans. Our people spoke of the Oulimad, and
+Overweg dreamed he was fighting with them. I dreamed the same night of
+large turtles, for it had been said they are found in this plateau, and
+their marks had been traced to-day. I learn now that large turtles, two
+feet and a-half long, and one foot and a-half broad, are found here. The
+back shell of one was used for a watering trough by the people we met
+_en route_. We had sand all day, rising occasionally in considerable
+mounds. I observed the prevailing winds in the formation of these
+mounds; for there is always an inclined plane towards the quarter whence
+the wind blows; whilst to where it blows the mounds are scarped. The
+winds prevailing now are E.N.E.; and the wind has nearly always come
+from this direction since our arrival in Aheer. In another season,
+however, there may be a total change. In full summer it may be south,
+for what we know. In fact, Amankee says, in summer the wind always comes
+from the south. At this season the sand is covered with nice herbage in
+some places, but in the hot weather it must be all dried up. This is, in
+truth, the spring time in this country; the birds are all laying. There
+are also young birds fledged. In Haussa there is no word for "fledged."
+
+This route must really present, in some parts, for many hours together,
+an ocean of sand; as, I think, it is described in the Itinerary procured
+by Davis. To-day the footprints of the giraffe have entirely
+disappeared.
+
+In summer it must be very difficult for large caravans to obtain water
+from this well, for our people were full half a day filling four or five
+skins. What a blessing, nevertheless, is the existence of the Chidugula,
+for there is no water for three days farther. The boys killed this
+morning a jerboah, or what the Germans call a jumping mouse. I saw one
+yesterday, jumping before my camel's feet. There are a great number
+here. This jerboah is of a different colour from those I have seen in
+Tunis; being white all over the lower part of the body and neck,
+straw-coloured on the top of the head and along the back; whilst those
+in Tunis are nearly of the same colour as ordinary mice. This species is
+also small, three inches and a-half long, and the tail is double the
+length of the body. The hind legs are nearly as long as the body, and
+the fore legs not half an inch. Near the tip of the tail there is an
+inch of black. Many young jerboahs were caught, all of the same
+description. The Haussa people call it a mouse, but have besides a
+special name.
+
+We are now about the middle of the Sahara, including the radii of the
+western and northern coasts, and we here find an immense plateau,
+stretching many days north and south, east and west. So far Le Brun's
+conjecture is right, that the central parts of Africa are plateaux, or
+one vast plateau. But more of this hereafter. This plateau extends to
+the Bornou route, and how much further east is yet to be ascertained. In
+the west we yet also want information. North and south it extends along
+the territory of Aheer some eight days, or about one hundred and sixty
+miles. Overweg reckons the height of the plateau, above the level of the
+sea, at some fifteen hundred feet.
+
+_31st._--The last day of the year! One year gone in Africa this tour!
+How many more are to pass? Alas! who can tell?--We came to-day nine
+hours, always south, over a perfect desert-plain, mostly sandy. A cold
+north-east wind was blowing all the day. The people dread it as death
+itself; as well they may, for they are nearly naked. Their Soudan cotton
+clothes afford them little or no protection against such a bleak
+north-easter. Europeans are astonished to see these people shivering
+with cold in this bleak weather, and forget that they themselves are
+well clothed. This remark is very applicable to the northern coast,
+where hundreds of the poor are seen shivering, with only a thin blanket
+thrown around them in the coldest day of winter. When they see a
+European well covered with tight cloth clothes, and flannel underneath,
+they may well call out _sega_, "cold," as they often do; and we are
+ready to laugh, and forget they are naked.
+
+In this part of the desert birds of prey abound. We passed to-day some
+twenty large vultures, feeding on a dead camel. When the caravan filed
+by they all took wing, and perched themselves in a row on a rising mound
+of sand, and there waited until we had passed before them, like so many
+soldiers. These were black vultures, and of enormous breadth of wing.
+Many wild oxen, or what are so called, were seen, and everywhere the
+footprints of ostriches and gazelles. His highness En-Noor made us a
+present of two ostrich eggs, and we supped on this out-of-the-way
+delicacy the last day of the year. The date of the black country
+(Soudan) is deserving of notice. It is called in Bornou, _bitu_; and in
+Haussa, _aduwa_ and _tinku_, both tree and fruit. Its kernel, or stone,
+is very large, and the little pulpy matter upon it has the taste of a
+bitter sweet. It is about the size of an almond, and covered with a
+green husk, a little thick. This fruit is now ripening fast in Aheer.
+The tree is covered with thorns, very large, and projecting in every
+direction. The leaves are small, almost without veins, and with a thick
+stalk.
+
+To-day we had the karengia, or bur, with a vengeance. En-Noor had
+already advertised us of its appearance hereabouts two days ago. It is
+certainly the most troublesome thing that can well be conceived for all
+travellers, and more so for Europeans. This bur is from a species of
+herbage bearing grain, very small, and which the people make bazeen of,
+like ghaseb and other grain. All feet of men, women, and animals, were
+to-day covered with this teasing bur.
+
+The animals seen on this plateau, it will be seen, are in reality mostly
+of the harmless kind. The giraffe, the wild ox (considered a species of
+immense gazelle, or stag), the gazelle, a large and small species, the
+ostrich, the guinea-fowl, the hobara (in Haussa, _tuja_), various kinds
+of vultures, the crow, many small birds, the lizard (in small numbers),
+the jerboah, the locust, butterflies, and other insects, the thob, the
+large turtle, &c. Overweg says the footmarks of the hy�na were also
+seen.
+
+En-Noor's people caught a young ostrich, only a few hours hatched. It is
+now kept as a pet. Several eggs have been also picked up. The ostrich
+has been seen feeding on the gum of the tholukh-tree.
+
+As to trees, we have still the eternal tholukh, or mimosa. What an
+omnipresent tree is this in Africa! The mimosa is found at the Cape,
+with the ethel; it is found in all the northern Sahara, and the ethel
+with it, wherever there is some water, as in the wadys of Fezzan. In all
+the western Sahara it abounds, producing the finest gums. Consider also
+the gum-trade at Mogador and Senegal! In the plain of Timbuctoo, the
+mimosa is found in scattered forests. Our people pretend, however, that
+the tholukh does not occur in Soudan, its place being filled up by
+various thorny trees, much resembling the mimosa. We have around us some
+other stunted shrubs. All trees are dwarfish in these plateaux.
+
+Various distinguished characters are amongst the servants and slaves of
+En-Noor. One fellow is called the "King of the Donkeys," another wench
+is styled the "Queen of the Goats;" Zumzug is properly named _Proban
+berau_, "a great thief," from his thievish propensities. Then there is
+the "Lad of the Arrows," the fellow who is always boasting of how many
+people he has killed with arrows, &c. &c.; but Zumzug requires especial
+notice from me, on account of his having run off to Aghadez with a
+caftan of mine; and also from the curious circumstance that En-Noor
+keeps such a thief amongst his slaves, so confounding the honest with
+the thievish servants.
+
+_January 1, 1851._--A strong, bleak, north-east wind ushers in the New
+Year. It began yesterday, and is likely to continue for some time. Most
+comfortless and disagreeable weather is this for the caravan. The people
+do not like to move, and show a decided tendency to hibernation. Some
+camels are also lost--escaped from the numbed fingers of their drivers.
+I, too, feel it cold; and yet there is so much of home in this
+weather--this keen, bracing air--that I cannot complain.
+
+Our people caught the camels at length, and we proceeded still
+southwards. After three hours' travelling we appeared to have passed the
+most barren portion of the plateau, and came upon a new species of tree,
+called in Haussa, _tadana_. We have this day had a splendid sight of
+ostriches--eleven feeding in a troop near us, quietly like so many
+sheep--eccentric birds of their species, showing no tendency to scud
+away. Perhaps I shall never see so many again together. They were all
+black, with maybe a white feather or two underneath the sombre plumage.
+
+The small tholukh-trees are full of birds' nests. In the Northern Sahara
+a bird's nest was not to be seen, but here the trees are all covered
+with them. Amongst the various smaller ones, we came upon a huge
+vulture's nest on a very small tholukh, which seemed to bend and look
+unhappy beneath the weight of this den of rapacity and violence. There
+are hereabouts no rocks for the eagles to build upon. We halted amidst
+abundance of herbage and small trees, which afforded a little shelter
+from the wind.
+
+It is, perhaps, as well that we begin the year with this most bleak and
+unlovely day. We may have a better one to terminate 1851. I was obliged
+to increase my travelling clothes, and put on an extra holi on account
+of the cold wind; and yet the temperature was not very low, it being
+only 46� at sunrise. The wind evidently comes over an immense extent of
+plain towards the east, perhaps some forty or fifty days' journey. We
+made six hours and a-half.
+
+_2d._--We started early, and moved at first to the beat of the drum.
+Already yesterday we had seen symptoms that the desert was drawing to a
+close. To-day we fairly got out of it, and entered upon a wilderness of
+small trees. The vegetation has not, however, yet improved in proportion
+to our nearness to Soudan; for this dwarf forest of tholukh and various
+other trees cannot be compared to the splendid desert vegetation in the
+Aheer valleys; these are pigmy mimosas in comparison with those of
+Aheer. The surface of the ground is now undulating sand and red earth,
+and every trace of stone has almost disappeared; the soil is also
+covered with karengia and other herbs, all dry and sapless. We seem to
+be traversing a limitless stubble-field, covered over or sprinkled with
+small trees. Few animals enliven the scene; a crow here and there struts
+or flies. All the small birds seem to have sought covert from the cold.
+The same north-east wind as yesterday blows with remorseless strength.
+
+I observed great numbers of ant-hills, and very large ones, too. Some of
+the paths from these hills are straighter than the roads made by man
+over the Sahara. So, also, the birds in Aheer, and on this route, build
+better houses for themselves than men do. We halted amidst karengia, and
+had great difficulty in finding a place clear of them. En-Noor suffers
+dreadfully from the cold, and we help to keep him alive by our coffee,
+which he drinks shivering, and then admits to have given him renovated
+heat and strength. This coffee keeps the old fellow in a good humour,
+and he is extremely civil to us.
+
+_3d._--We started early, and made four hours and a-half, when we stopped
+at the village Inasamet, or Unwessemet. The weather is still the same,
+and the route continues to wind through a scattered wilderness of small
+trees, amongst which Overweg thought he had discovered a species of wild
+orange.
+
+We now see signs of approaching habitations, such as flocks of sheep
+straying, and droves of oxen feeding begin to appear. There seems to be
+a great number of birds of prey hereabouts. I counted at least thirty
+vultures, who watched the passing of the caravan, in hopes to see a
+camel fall and be abandoned.
+
+We encamped a stone's throw beyond the houses. The well is called by the
+same name as the village. The inhabitants are Tuaricks, and some of them
+of a very pure race, almost white; whilst others, again, are dark: they
+are called Tagama. The women and children all came out to sell their
+cheeses, and a few other things. I purchased two small fowls and a good
+number of cheeses, which seem to be the principal articles of produce:
+they are made quite square, three or four inches a side, and a quarter
+of an inch thick. I purchased these with imitation silver rings, of
+which the people are immensely fond, preferring them to the imitation
+gold ring. I got two cheeses for a ring--a plain hoop: the fowls cost
+each three of these toys. The women and girls bothered me much with
+their curiosity and their bartering. Some of them are as stout as the
+Mooresses of the coast, and nearly all are well-looking; many with very
+good features, and fair for this country. All are polite enough, men,
+women, and children. We are glad to find the people more civil, the
+nearer we approach to Soudan. We pray and hope this amendment may
+continue; for hitherto, since we left Mourzuk, we have always had the
+people, with the exception of those of Tintalous, more or less hostile
+towards us. Some of our customers came to ask if the rings were really
+silver, for the blacksmith of the village had said they were only
+pewter. We replied, they were _de-de_ silver; that is, looked like it,
+or equal to it. They are, indeed, a most excellent imitation of silver,
+and answer quite as well the purpose of adorning these Targhee beauties.
+
+I saw to-day, on a single bough of tholukh, and a very small bough,
+three birds' nests suspended in a festoon. I tasted the wild
+water-melons of this part of the Sahara, and found them bitterness
+itself. But I am told by our Gatronee, that the Tibboos have a method of
+extracting the bitterness from this wild fruit. The people brought me
+_en route_ some fruit, called in Bornou _kusulu_, and _mageria_ in
+Haussa; that is, the _nebek_ or fruit of the sider or lote-tree. They
+were dry, but sweet and nice, and of a pleasant, acid sweet. Provisions
+thus are becoming more plentiful and varied. Dr. Barth has bought some
+meat of _el-wagi_, the name given by Yusuf for the bugar wahoush, or
+wild ox of the Arabs.
+
+The greater part of the trees in this region are of the species called
+in Haussa, _tadani_, and in Bornouese, _kabi_. Were these trees adorned
+with leaves--they are now fallen off, in consequence of the cold--the
+country about would seem covered with a dense forest.
+
+Our arrival amongst the Tagama is a new era in our journeying, it being
+some time since we saw any men besides Kailouees. Overweg thinks the men
+thieves and bad, and the women lascivious; but I observed in their
+conduct nothing different from other Tuaricks. A man, however, offered
+several women to Barth. I have never yet had such offers. Amongst the
+things brought for sale are young ostriches and the eggs of ostriches. I
+ate in the evening some flesh of the giraffe; it is pretty well tasted,
+and something like beef. Hunting the giraffe is a great occupation with
+the people of this village, and the flesh of the animal a source of
+subsistence for them. They have, however, besides, cattle and flocks;
+and the karengia, which has proved such an annoyance to us, is the
+principal farinaceous food of these Tagama, as the bou rekaba is the
+principal food of poor families in Aheer. Inasamet has, perhaps, a
+hundred huts, covered with the skins of the bullock, and probably of the
+giraffe. The latter animal is hunted by men mounted on horseback, who
+throw their spears at it, and wound it under the belly. This is said to
+be the only way of killing it, for the rest of its body is covered with
+a sort of rhinoceros hide, of great thickness. Of this hide they make
+famous sandals, which wear long.
+
+It is difficult to decide how far this immense plain--which extends as
+far as Aghadez on the N.W., to Gouber on the S.W., perhaps as far as the
+plain of Senezrouft, on the route of Timbuctoo--passing, besides,
+eastwards across the route of Bornou,--how far this vast space of desert
+is a plateau to the surrounding countries; that is, whether higher or
+lower than their level. We do not think it is a plateau in reference to
+Aheer. There is another route to Damerghou, westward of this, on which
+is situate the forest of Kob-kob, the place mentioned in the itinerary
+which I procured from the people of Ghadamez.
+
+_4th._--The morning was cold, with wind. The Tagama, I observe, have
+many horses. Like their more civilised brethren in Europe, these people
+find this the most tractable and convenient animal in every case where
+the desert does not interfere.
+
+We came south seven hours and a-quarter; after four, the wavy country
+broke up into a deep valley; in another hour, on the right, was seen a
+pool of rain-water--a small lake, stretching nearly a mile long. The
+country, as yesterday, was undulating, and covered with a dwarf forest;
+but the trees were thicker, and the ground was covered with dried
+herbage, mostly karengia. It is our constant occupation, morning and
+evenings, for half an hour, to pick the burs out of our clothes. The
+animals seen were mostly small birds; some flights of blackbirds,
+two-thirds the size of the English blackbird; and crows and doves in
+numbers. Near the water I picked up the feathers of the guinea-fowl, and
+the piece of a shell of a large turtle. Burrows of the hy�na and the
+ant-eater dotted the ground. En-Noor told me that lions also abound in
+the thickets. The lions conceal themselves in the trees, and the hy�nas
+burrow under ground.
+
+Our people are now on the threshold of Damerghou, and do not know yet
+what route they will take from this country to Kanou; whether by Tesaoua
+or Zinder. Even En-Noor seems quite undecided what he shall do.
+
+_5th._--We came well on to-day, eight hours and twenty minutes. After
+four or five hours we passed on the roadside a dozen huts, with
+skin-roofs or coverings. The people are some light, some dark;
+variegated, like most of the Tuaricks. The children of eight or nine
+years go quite naked. After two hours more we came upon the large
+village of Gumrum, or Gumrek. I saw many people, light and dark; the
+women are fat and bold, free in their conversation; and the men
+evidently fanatical. The latter shouted that we ought not to pass,
+because we were infidels. One fellow was very savage, and cursed me; he
+was an old grey-headed gentleman, and seemed quite excited. These people
+are also of the tribe of the Tagama. Amankee came up to me, whispering,
+"These are like the Kalfada�, they would rob you as they did, only they
+are all in the hands of the Sofo (En-Noor)."
+
+The inhabitants of Gumrek have much cattle. We ourselves saw some five
+or six hundred head, and they must have more than double this number,
+besides flocks and horses. The men mostly ride horses, but their breed
+is miserably small and ill-looking. People in poor circumstances mount
+bullocks, as do all the women.
+
+To the west, lately, there came off a great razzia. All this country
+around, for some hundred miles, is the noted theatre of such
+expeditions, which are mostly undertaken against the salt and other
+caravans, where there is considerable booty expected. The smaller
+caravans escape. When the Kilgris and Kailouees are in open hostility,
+they generally make this the theatre of their battles; the former
+carrying off the salt of the latter. This hostility is, like that of
+most of the wild tribes, of ancient date. The Kilgris have been driven
+from all this part of Asben by the Kailouees. The houses we passed in
+ruins are said to have been once occupied by the Kilgris. If so, they
+evidently were in former times powerful and opulent, and have since
+become relaxed and pusillanimous. At any rate, they have been expelled
+by the fiercer and more ferocious Kailouees. The Oulimad also come here
+to plunder occasionally. At Gurarek we saw a phenomenon which, after so
+much desert, gladdened indeed our eyes. This was a fine sheet of water,
+of great extent, covered with a forest of luxurious trees. It was a
+genuine Soudan picture, and we gazed at it with delight. I nevertheless
+thought of the pestilential exhalations of the stagnant pools further on
+in Soudan. The ground holds the water tightly, for wells are sunk near
+it of some depth before water is reached. This pool, or lake, dries up
+during the heat of summer, as is proved by the existence of wells sunk
+in their beds.
+
+The country to-day was extremely pleasant, like some parts of the
+undulating county of Essex, after the harvest is gathered. I scarcely
+expected to find such reminiscences in Africa, on the frontiers of
+Pamerghou. If the vegetation were all in leaf, the scenery would be
+quite cheerful and happy-looking. The trees to-day thickened into
+forests down some slopes--but there is nothing tropical in all this
+verdure; one or two plants, at most, are all that could be considered as
+such. Many gazelles glanced on either hand as we proceeded: the
+guinea-hen was in great numbers, thirty or forty together, old ones and
+chickens. They run very quickly through the forests, and cannot be taken
+in the day. At night, however, some are snared. They feed on the
+karengia, and get immensely plump. Their flesh is greatly esteemed.
+Doves showed themselves in flights; and many beautiful small birds, some
+strangers to my eyes. One especially, a little black-and-white fellow,
+with an immense bushy tail. Vultures, in company with a variegated crow,
+were feeding on a dead camel. This curious crow has a white neck and
+breast. What a truly Saharan group is that which I have just noticed.
+The vulture feeding on a camel fallen in the desert, towards the end of
+an arduous journey!
+
+We met a party of huntsmen, with three bullocks to carry their ghaseb.
+They had six dogs, and told us they were off after the giraffe. A few
+lizards now and then glanced over the path, and at every thirty or forty
+yards rose a busy ant-hill.
+
+En-Noor and I converged to-day from the backs of our respective camels.
+He asked me particularly if I liked stout women, and whether stout women
+were found in England. I replied, gravely, that this species occurred in
+all Christian countries; a piece of zoological information which seemed
+highly to gratify him. His highness still pretends he does not know
+where he is going--that is, whether to Zinder or Tesaoua.
+
+We encamped near a shallow wady, the first we have seen in this part of
+the country; i.e. a well-defined dry bed of a river.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+My Barracan--Spontaneous Civility on arrival in Damerghou--Ghaseb
+Stubble--Cactus--Water-Melons--Party of Tuaricks--Boban Birni--Huts of
+Damerghou--Tagelel--Women of the Village--Population of the
+Country--Complaisant Ladies--Festivities--Aquatic Birds--Dancing--A
+Flatterer--A Slave Family--A new Reason for Wife-beating--Hazna
+Dancers--Damerghou, common ground--Purchase of Ghaseb--Dethroned
+Sultan--Yusuf--Mohammed Tunisee--Ophthalmia--Part with Barth and
+Overweg--Presents to Servants--Sheikh of Fumta--Yakobah
+Slave--Applications for Medicine--Boban Birni--Forest--At length enter
+Bornou ground--Daazzenai--Tuarick Respectabilities--Detachment of the
+Salt-Caravan.
+
+
+_Jan. 6th._--We came seven hours. The weather is always thick, as for
+many days past; but the wind not so strong, nor the air so cold. We had
+even some drops of rain; and, probably, the rain here is not so
+constant, in its fall in summer-time, as is generally supposed. I took
+out my last barracan, as some precaution against the threatening clouds.
+This barracan excited everybody's attention; every one admired it, and
+asked for it. I was plagued to death by the people, and I vowed I would
+not take it out again be the weather what it might. The same demand had
+been repeatedly made for my poor carpet; so, on the following day, I
+took it off from the camel.
+
+An hour before we pitched tent; we passed a town on the top of a hill
+composed of huts, some covered with skins, and some made of straw. Our
+encampment is in a wady, near a cluster of hovels. The people came
+running to welcome us, by offering ghaseb for sale. Two volunteered to
+assist us in clearing a clean place for our tents. This being the first
+act of spontaneous assistance which we had witnessed from Tripoli to
+Damerghou, I gave them each a ring. We are now fairly in Damerghou; and
+to-day we saw the first specimens of the culture in this part of Africa.
+The ground is cleared by burning, as on the coast; which burning serves
+partly to supply the place of manure. The people, apparently slaves,
+were burning and raking up the ashes and stubble, with rakes made of
+fallen branches of trees. We passed through wide tracts of ghaseb
+stubble. Some of the stalks were seven or eight feet high, but the ears
+were not larger than those seen at Ghadamez--about eight or nine inches.
+
+Amongst the plants observed yesterday was the cactus, with a smooth
+leaf. Water-melons were also found in the road, mostly quite good and
+sweet, but some white ones perfectly tasteless. None, even those
+cultivated, are equal to the melons of the coast; there are no mealy
+ones here.
+
+We were met by a party of Tuaricks, who came to salute En-Noor, mounted
+on horseback. As we had had some very rough customers amongst the
+Tagama, I took little notice of them, and continued eating my bread and
+cheese. At this the people of the caravan laughed. They thought we ought
+always to receive these strangers, Tuaricks, with fear and trembling. I
+deemed the contrary plan more politic. However, had I known they were
+official persons, and one son of a sheikh of a town, I should have given
+them a more civil welcome.
+
+_7th._--We came eight hours and a-half south, over an undulating
+country, intersected with small wadys, and through ghaseb stubble. All
+was wavy ground, and bare of trees. There is, however, a small hill, at
+a distance of some ten miles from our encampment, called Boban Birni,
+"Great City," of conical form. Numerous villages were scattered along
+the whole line of route, a few of some size. The form of the huts is
+like that of beehives. Around them are small magazines of ghaseb,
+supported on wooden stakes, very like corn-stacks. The inhabitants of
+these Damerghou villages are blacks, with features like the Bornouese.
+In fact, they speak the Bornou languages, and are said to have been the
+product of past razzias in that country by the Tuaricks.
+
+Damerghou is the granary of Asben, and seems to be entirely in
+possession of the Asbenouees, nearly all these villages being peopled by
+the slaves of the Tuaricks. Some villages, indeed, contain nothing but
+slaves.
+
+Few animals were noticed to-day, but we saw four gazelles feeding
+together, and some hares. Not many birds appeared, on account of the
+fewness of the trees. Only a small portion of the ground is cultivated,
+but the camels and cattle are taken to be fed in the waste lands.
+
+We encamped at the village of En-Noor, called Tagelel. The capital of
+Damerghou is on the west (N.W.) from this, and is called Olleloa. The
+place is governed by Tuaricks.
+
+People say there are two or three hundred towns and villages in the
+country. Damerghou is not considered as part of Soudan, because it is
+possessed by the Tuaricks; but the country and climate are undoubtedly
+the same as all the neighbouring Soudanee territories. The weather was
+very warm and oppressive to-day. I fancied I suffered from the change of
+climate. I felt not quite well, and was much annoyed by the disobedience
+of the servants. Mohammed Tunisee has spoiled them all, and even Yusuf
+has done his share of mischief.
+
+_8th._--The weather was warm again this morning. I had a visit from the
+female slaves of the village of En-Noor, introduced by the wife of his
+highness. I gave them rings and sugar, and sent them off in a good
+humour. The country around looks exceedingly bare, almost free from
+trees. There is a little herbage for the camels. Ghaseb stubble,
+however, spreads all over, which looks well for the industry of the poor
+slaves. The karengia has disappeared.
+
+The news of the day goes that En-Noor will take me himself to Zinder. He
+probably wants to make acquaintance with the new governor of that place,
+as well as to see us safe there. The Tuaricks paid me a visit. I gave
+them a bit of sugar, showed them a gun, and got rid of them. A present
+of leban from a daughter of En-Noor induced me to give her a ring.
+
+Amankee says the population of this country is very various, but the
+Tuaricks of Asben are the masters. The villagers are not all slaves;
+there are many free people amongst them,--also Buza in numbers; Tuaricks
+who, having settled in Soudan, have forgotten their own language,
+speaking only Haussa. Many visitors trouble us, but we hope for a
+diminution to-morrow. The people of Damerghou are reported as enormous
+thieves, but we have seen as yet but little of their propensities this
+way, having, happily, lost nothing.
+
+I made a visit to the village, and was well received by the principal
+slave of En-Noor, who presented me with ghaseb-bread, cheese, and furd,
+or ghaseb-water. The ladies were singularly complaisant, and one offered
+me her friend; another was offered by a man. I believe these offers made
+in the way of compliments. In the East, it would not be prudent to take
+him at his word who should say, "Everything I have is yours." The huts
+of the village are very clean, and are inhabited entirely by slaves of
+En-Noor. These villages of Damerghou, at a distance, have the appearance
+of Chinese villages, such as I have seen drawn, with eaves cocked up
+like the rim of a French hat. The evening was given up to festivities,
+the slaves of the caravan uniting with those of the Tagelel. A regular
+procession brought the supper from the village to the people of the
+caravan, and then the music and dancing began. We had no supper sent.
+His highness is amazingly shabby in this respect. He fancies, perhaps,
+he could send us nothing better than what we have ourselves got, but he
+might try the compliment. We are, however, obliged to him for preventing
+others from levying contributions upon us in this new region. The
+Tuaricks here--all the strangers--are very civil; on account, I believe,
+of our being with the old man. He is of great negative utility.
+
+Overweg went to a lagoon, with little green isles in the midst of it,
+and shot some ducks. Ducks! This convinces us that we are now in the
+country of water. A wader was shot, and a fine plump bird something like
+a partridge, which Mohammed Tunisee calls _poule de Carthage_, but it is
+much smaller than those that I have eaten in Tunis. Many aquatic birds
+were flying or floating about the lake.
+
+The dancing in the evening was after this fashion. Two men beat drums,
+standing on one side of a circle marked. The dancers advanced towards
+them with shy and coyish gesture, and then swung round and round to the
+opposite side of the circle in a sort of time kept by the beating of the
+drum. They threw up their legs, but not in an indecent manner. It was a
+kind of simple waltzing. The men were not more violent in action than
+the women. Each sex danced separately, the women beginning first and
+then retiring. During the performance a song was kept up, a continually
+recurring rhyme. When it became dark the male and female slaves made
+love, and coquetted together. We, too, had our music; a strolling
+minstrel came to our tent by appointment to play on his guitar. He sang
+all our praises in very nice Haussa words, and indulged in the most
+extraordinary flattery I ever heard. I was Sultan, and had the riches of
+the world at my command. _Over_ was the great doctor, and what he could
+not cure, God himself could not cure. _Bar_ was the wise man, knowing
+all languages and all things. We tried not to be pleased, but in vain.
+Flattery is sweet, especially when enveloped in song.
+
+The weather was hot to-day, and sultry. I made many little presents,
+some to a fighi of Bornou, a Shoua Arab, who repeated the fatah to us.
+It is reported that a great deal of the salt goes with En-Noor to
+Zinder, from which we are separated by two days' journey, one of
+villages and another of forest.
+
+_9th._--The morning opened with wind, as usual, from the N.E. The
+weather was cooler than yesterday. I visited a group of cottages, or
+rather huts, and received a present of a korna for holding water. The
+thatch of these primitive habitations was of bou rekaba stalks. The
+korna is allowed to twine itself over the roofs, as the woodbine over
+our cottages, and looks very pretty. This group of cottages was
+inhabited by a single family,--alas! all slaves.
+
+According to Overweg, the reason En-Noor beat his wife in the terrible
+manner mentioned in this journal was, because she was accustomed to
+glide out of her chamber at night to witness the dances--the beastly
+dances of the north coast. I certainly was surprised to hear that she
+was present at these filthy exhibitions. "Have I not bought you?" his
+highness remonstrated with her. "Are you not my slave?" "No." she
+replied; "I am your wife, not your slave." So the lady continued, till
+she aggravated his highness into a great fury. Many Europeans, it must
+be confessed, would beat their wives for a less cause.
+
+It is now said, his highness goes first to Tesaoua. We start all
+to-morrow, at any rate. The bells which cover the horses are without
+clappers, but being close together they make a great jingling noise by
+dashing one against another. Suppers were brought this evening, but the
+singing and dancing were not continued. We had, however, at sunset, a
+visit from a Hazna dancer,--a perfect specimen of African buffoonery and
+jingling. He danced and sung with the wildest barbarity. He had two
+followers, to pick up the offerings of the people. They beat two pieces
+of stick together to the motion of his legs, hung with bells. The upper
+part of his body was naked, whilst the lower part was covered with a red
+and yellow apron. This man is said to drink beer, and is a professed
+pagan.
+
+I went to the wells, which are bored through the hard red clay, in the
+shape of small circular holes, of about fifty feet in depth. There is
+very little water at this season, but it is sufficient for the wants of
+the village when the salt-caravan is not here.
+
+The inhabitants of Damerghou consist of Kailouee Tuaricks--Bornouese
+runaways and slaves--Haussa people, free and slaves--Bousa, or the
+descendants of Tuaricks by slaves, and a few Fullanee. This is also the
+refuge of dethroned sultans, as well as runaway slaves. There is now
+here the Kailouee prince called Maaurgi, who exercised authority some
+years since in Aheer. Damerghou, indeed, appears to be common ground,
+where every one who pleases, and is strong enough, comes to establish
+himself. Many runaways, freemen from Bornou, who had committed some
+misdemeanour, being found in this country weak and unable to protect
+themselves, were reduced to slavery by a Tuarick prince. The slaves here
+answer to the serfs of Russia, with the exception that they may be taken
+away and sold in other countries.
+
+_10th._--The morning was cool because of the wind. They held a souk, or
+market, to-day near us. Provisions were very cheap. I was greatly amused
+to see the small quantities of sunbal which Mahadee had laid out for two
+zekkas of ghaseb. For myself I was much plagued by the women, who all
+admire my beard; not, certainly, my red nose, which is terribly scorched
+and peeled by the sun.
+
+Overweg visited the dethroned Sultan of Asoudee, who is living here in
+state, in the midst of his slaves. He holds a sort of court, and,
+contrary to the free customs of the Tuaricks, he permits slaves who
+approach him to prostrate themselves and throw dust on their heads. He
+is the uncle of the present Sultan of Asoudee, and is called Masouarji.
+In his fallen condition he gave Overweg a hospitable reception, and a
+present of dates, which was duly acknowledged.
+
+Yusuf, refusing to do some translation which I requested him, now
+forfeits all claims to my service. I told him, to-day, to go off to
+Kanou. Afterwards I arranged with him to go with me to Zinder, where,
+before the governor, I hope to get clear of him; for he is now of little
+use, and costs me more than all my servants together.
+
+Mohammed Tunisee has done him great harm; but, nevertheless, this chap
+continues to improve since the arrangement made, by which he becomes
+only the servant of Barth. The Germans, however, are still afraid of
+him. Yusuf is trying the same system with me, but will probably find
+that it will end in no good affair for himself. Mohammed Tunisee and
+Yusuf seem hitherto to have combined to spoil all our people. The
+liberated slaves from Tunis, brought up by me, have turned out the best
+and most faithful servants. I am much pleased with this.
+
+All the people of Damerghou are afflicted with ophthalmia, which is said
+to arise from the winds that prevail constantly over this open and
+unsheltered country. Some of the people pretend it is caused by drinking
+ghaseb-water, which appears absurd enough. The Moorish and other
+merchants attribute the greater part of their diseases to drinking
+water,--especially the fevers. How much truth there is in this assertion
+is not easy to be determined.
+
+_11th._--It has been agreed that I and my colleagues should here part
+for a time, Dr. Barth going to Kanou, and Dr. Overweg to Tesaoua and
+Maradee, whilst I proceed with En-Noor direct to Zinder. Dr. Barth
+promises to be in Kuka in two months; and Dr. Overweg says he will
+immediately correspond, that is from Tesaoua to Zinder. The latter has
+the more difficult journey before him; but even Dr. Barth's visit to
+Kanou may turn out a more serious business than perhaps he anticipates.
+We took leave one of the other with some emotion; for in Central Africa,
+those travellers who part and take divergent routes can scarcely count
+on all meeting together again.
+
+I also here parted with Amankee, my Haussa servant. He had behaved
+indifferently lately, but nevertheless, as he rendered us some service
+in the acquirement of the Haussa languages, and in other matters, I made
+him a present of four dollars for one extra time he had remained with
+us. He had been paid his wages at Mourzuk to go with us to Zinder, but
+then we expected to be only three months _en route_. In a moment, just
+as we were starting, he changed his mind, and would go to his home at
+once. This is his character,--levity and instability,--otherwise he is a
+good fellow enough. He is one of those Tuaricks who have settled in
+Haussa and forgotten their native tongue. I have been often obliged to
+use harsh language to him, to curb his levity. In parting with the
+servants of the Germans, I promised them each a present of six dollars
+if I heard a good report of them on their arrival at Kuka. This present
+is held out as an inducement because it is impossible to tell what may
+happen, as the Germans will nearly always be without any special escort.
+En-Noor, however, sends one of his slaves with Overweg to Maradee, and
+Barth goes with the salt-caravan to Kanou.
+
+I was much disappointed that we made but one hour this morning (south).
+To pass the time, I determined to visit some of the villages with which
+Damerghou is overscattered. I went first to a place called Fumta Bou
+Beker, twenty-five minutes from our encampment. Here I found the Sheikh,
+who had just returned from Kanou,--a considerable merchant. He received
+me with great hospitality, and gave me ghaseb-water, and some little
+pieces of meat, roasted, besides milk. I was accompanied by my stupid
+mahadee, who is, nevertheless, not a bad market-man. He purchased a
+large calabash of milk, and a peck of beans, for some small pieces of
+jaui, or benzoin. I then administered caustic to all the eyes of the
+village--at least sixty persons--including men, women, and children,
+with the Sheikh. Bad eyes were the only pressing complaints of the
+place.
+
+The villagers all spoke Bornouese. I believe this is the general
+language of Damerghou. There were only two or three Tuaricks present.
+Most of the people were free. The Sheikh, of course, had several slaves;
+amongst them a Yakobah slave, with straight lines cicatrised in curious
+patterns all over his body. The poor fellow seemed remarkably stupid,
+and I believe that many of these poor fellows brought from the more
+distant countries of Soudan become half idiots from continually
+regretting their beloved country. Alas! what can be done for Africa,
+when the greater part of its social system is constructed on slavery?
+
+Curious applications are made for medicines to cure various afflictions,
+moral and physical, amongst these people. A woman, to-day, begged for a
+medicine to prevent her children from dying. She had had many children,
+and all had died. Another woman applies for a medicine to prevent her
+husband from liking her rival, and to make him place his affection on
+her. A man demands medicine for good luck, and says he is always
+unfortunate.--Good people, I am not the physician to be called in in
+these cases.
+
+It is night, and En-Noor has not made his appearance. I am travelling
+with his wife and the other women; besides, there are a number of male
+slaves and some thirty camels of salt. Probably his highness will go
+another way to Zinder.
+
+I believe that Fumta Bou Beker is quite an independent village, and that
+all the great towns and villages here have an independent jurisdiction
+of their own. According to a slave of En-Noor, there are two sultans.
+
+_12th._--The morning was cool and windy. We started pretty early, and
+moved one hour through huts scattered amidst the ghaseb stubble. Then
+came three hours of undulating ground, uncultivated. Afterwards we fell
+in with huts again; and in two hours more reached the conical-shaped
+mount called Boban Birni. It consists of a sort of coarse sandstone and
+is in part overgrown with herbage. From the encampment to Mount Boban
+Birni was a distance of six hours S.W. It can be seen from afar off,
+though in reality not very lofty. We passed the mount for two hours
+through a forest of dwarf trees; the country still billowy, as it were.
+We advanced in all about eight hours, braced by a pleasant north-east
+wind. As we advanced we saw ostriches quietly feeding at no great
+distance, not heeding our caravan as it murmured by. Partridges rose as
+we advanced; together with guinea-hens, blackbirds, crows, black and
+white, and several long-tailed flutterers.
+
+_13th._--The morning was overcast, with cold wind. We started early, and
+made a long day of nine hours and a-half, and did not encamp until an
+hour after dark. Our course, as we ascended from Mount Boban Birni, was
+S. 3� E. The country still undulated through the same forest, which in
+many places was quite dense, whilst in others the trees were scattered.
+
+When we reached the camping-ground a pleasant announcement was made. We
+were at length upon Bornou soil! I could hardly believe my ears. Oh,
+marvel, after all our dangers and misgivings! Thanks to Almighty God for
+deliverance from the hands of lawless tribes! I shall never forget the
+sensation with which I learned that I was at length really in Bornou,
+and that the robber Tuarick was in very truth definitively left behind.
+
+Our encampment was near a little village of twenty huts, called
+Daazzenai, placed under a rock of red stone. The country of Damerghou,
+in this direction, is separated from Bornou by about eleven hours of
+forest, or some thirty miles English--a sufficient distance to divide
+two countries, especially in Africa. The trees were larger to-day, and
+some of considerable altitude. Many pretty yellow blossoms, glowed on a
+species of shrub not unlike the laburnum.
+
+I observed scattered in the forest small mounds of mud, wasting away to
+the level of the ground; there were many of them; the birds perch
+thereon.
+
+We have seen a few nice families amongst the Tuaricks and their slaves,
+but these are mostly foreigners. There is the family of the Tripoline
+slave; her husband is a pleasant, quiet man, and one of En-Noor's
+household; she has a daughter and one cade-lamb. Then there is the
+Bornou fighi and his wife. These people are so affable, that they always
+have visitors near their little tent. They have also a cade-lamb. Their
+tent is a curiosity. It is just large enough for one of them to creep
+in--not for two. I suppose the fighi enters at night, and leaves his
+wife to sleep at the door.
+
+A detachment of the salt-caravan passed us to-day for Zinder. The whole
+force of the salt-caravan this year could not be more than fifteen
+hundred. Two divisions were with us of Kailouees, one in advance, each
+of five hundred, and the Kilgris' division of five hundred. So much for
+the boasted ten thousand camels which were gone this year to bring salt!
+From En-Noor one could not possibly get correct statistics, for, being a
+thorough Kailouee and a Tuarick, he magnifies everything connected with
+his people before strangers, and particularly to us. It was very amusing
+to see all the little children warming themselves in the evening at the
+fire, or feeding the flames with brushwood, which they easily collected.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+March for Zinder--Enter the City--Reception--Delighted to escape from
+the Tuaricks--Letters from Kuka--Hospitable Treatment--Presents for the
+Sarkee and others--Visit the Shereef--His Duties--Audience of the
+Sarkee--Servility--Double-skulled Slave--Powder and Shot--Portrait of
+the Sultan--Commission from Kuka--European Clothes--Family of
+En-Noor--Tour of the Town--Scavengers--List of Sultans of Central
+Africa--Ancient Haussa--The Market--Money--Conversation
+with the Shereef--The Sultan at Home--Mixed Race of
+Zinder--Statistics--Personages of the Court.
+
+
+_Jan. 14th._--We started early, in hopes to reach Zinder in the course
+of the morning. Our course of five hours was S. 10� E. from the
+encampment. The route from En-Noor's palace in Damerghou is two good
+days and a-half. After two hours and a-half we came to huts in a valley,
+and a village of thirty or forty houses, called Boban Tabki. In three
+quarters of an hour there were villages again. I was pleased to see the
+corn-stacks or field-granaries standing in the open country, apart from
+all houses or habitations, illustrating the security of property in
+Zinder and its neighbouring districts. The country all around is
+pleasant, nicely undulating with ridges of green hills--the horizon
+bounded on every side with rounded green hills.
+
+We sighted Zinder after four hours' march; and entered the town within
+another hour. I was somewhat impatient to get rid of the Tuaricks, and
+place myself in the hands of the Bornou authorities; so I rode off
+myself to the town, leaving the suburbs, where the family of En-Noor
+have their residence, deaf to all their cries to stop. I found a
+friendly Kailouee, who conducted me straight to the house of the
+governor. His servants took me to the Shereef, and the Shereef sent me
+to Sa�d, my servant, where I found a house and everything prepared for
+my reception; and here, also, I found a slave sent from Bornou by the
+Sheikh, to conduct me to Kuka: so all things wore a happy aspect after
+so many miseries and uncertainties.
+
+I was delighted with the appearance of Zinder, its picturesque
+situation, and its unexpected size. It is much larger than I was led to
+expect. As soon as I was domiciled I received visits from several
+merchants of Mourzuk, besides the authorities of the town. All the sons
+of the Sultan of the place came to salute me; I gave them each a little
+sugar, and off they went highly pleased. Provisions now poured in at
+such a rate, that after the starvation of the desert I became nauseated
+at their sight. These were sent by the Sultan and the Shereef.
+
+Thankful satisfaction for my deliverance from the wild tribes, the most
+hostile to Christians of all this part of Africa, and fond anticipations
+of what I may do in Bornou; the good news I already heard, and the
+anxiety of the Sheikh for our safety, with my comparatively robust
+health;--thoughts of all these things prevented me from sleeping during
+the night.
+
+I learnt from Sa�d, servant of Haj Beshir, that letters had arrived from
+Mourzuk for us in Kuka, and one was addressed to the Sheikh, which had
+determined him to bring us all at once to Kuka, and prevent us going
+first to Soudan. Upon this advice, the Sultan of this place had sent
+four persons to Tesaoua, to bring my colleagues from that place. But
+whether they will come on the demand of these persons is very
+questionable. I learned that the Sfaxee, as I expected, was laid up with
+fever in Kanou, for he is emphatically a man of fever; and, besides, he
+has no control over himself, but gorges himself with food when an
+opportunity presents itself; and this, after the privations of the
+desert, is sure to bring on disease. Yusuf Moknee came to me this
+evening, to know what was to be done on the next morning. He finds it
+necessary to alter his conduct, as he sees now that I could do without
+him. I determined to go on with him for the present. I do not wish to
+leave him here with En-Noor, for he may do us harm with that subtle
+Kailouee prince. I must take him away from the Tuaricks altogether.
+
+I found all the Mourzuk people very friendly--everybody friendly; the
+world seemed turned upside down after our treatment from the Tuaricks. I
+began to make little presents, for I am determined our friends shall
+have a portion of her Majesty's goods as well as our enemies; which
+latter, indeed, took them away from us by force. I must not forget to
+remark, that when I entered Zinder there was not a single person bold
+enough to whisper the name _Kafer!_ so immense is the difference between
+this Bornou country and the Tuarick territories.
+
+_15th._--I rose early, having slept little. The weather was cool, the
+thermometer at sunrise being at 59�. I began to prepare our presents for
+the Sultan and the Shereef. After much debating as to quantity, it was
+determined to keep all the best things for Kuka, and give small presents
+here. In this respect I must praise Yusuf and his friends amongst the
+Mourzuk people.
+
+I prepared a present for Sarkee Ibrahim, sultan of Zinder, consisting of
+a piece of muslin for turban, a red turban, three heads of sugar, two
+glass drinking-cups, painted, a cup and saucer for coffee, a few rings
+in imitation of gold, cloves, two handkerchiefs (cotton), powder and
+shot, fifty bullets, two or three small looking-glasses. The present for
+the Shereef consisted of a carpet (hearth-rug), used here for kneeling
+upon in performing prayers, three white sugar-loaves, cloves,
+handkerchief (cotton), powder and shot, with some other trifles. The
+present for Sa�d, sent by Haj Beshir from Kuka, consisted of a cloth
+caftan (coarse), a cotton handkerchief, and a piece of cotton stuff to
+make a pillow.
+
+I am happy to add, that all were content and satisfied; but we made them
+understand--indeed, they knew it before we arrived--that the Tuaricks
+had taken away nearly all my property.
+
+I must add the present of the Shereef Saghir (little Shereef), who acts
+as interpreter for the Sultan: a glass painted drinking-cup, a
+handkerchief (cotton), a little sugar, jani, senbal, a few cloves, and
+two or three rings; with which he was well satisfied.
+
+Before noon I waited on the Shereef to deliver my present. I was much
+struck with this man's appearance. He was quite an European--white as
+myself. His countenance seemed full of thought and meaning. He is a
+native of Fez, and has lived long in Algiers. He has served in the war
+against the French under Abd-el-Kader, and has only been two years in
+Bornou and in Kuka, and once in Zinder. He is here as the _nather_,
+"looker-on;" one who watches over the interests of the country,
+particularly in its foreign relations. To speak plainly, he is a spy of
+the Sheikh of Bornou over the authorities of Zinder, including the
+Governor. All the people say, "Without the Shereef nothing can be done
+in Zinder;" and well they may, considering that he is in the entire
+confidence of the Sheikh. The Shereef is also the agent of all
+foreigners, and our goods were directed to his care from Tintalous--that
+is, those things which we sent up before us. The Sultans of Zinder are
+always a little disaffected; and to check them, and watch their conduct,
+the Shereef has been sent here. This personage is also universally
+respected for his learning, piety, and almsgiving; so that, apparently,
+the Sheikh could not have intrusted his interests to a more able man.
+The Shereef knows well the use of arms, for it is reported here in
+Zinder that he has killed _forty thousand_ Frenchmen with his own hands!
+The people actually believe this most marvellous report!
+
+After leaving the Shereef we went to salute the Sultan Ibrahim, and
+deliver to his highness our present. We were conducted into a species of
+fort, built of clay, with walls exceedingly thick. Here in a sort of
+anteroom, or open skifa, or hall, we found some fifty soldiers of the
+Sultan, unarmed and bare-headed, with one or two governors of
+neighbouring places, all squatted upon the ground. I was requested to
+squat down amongst them, which I did near a raised mud-bench. There was
+little light, the place being built to shut out the glare and heat of
+the sun. Here I waited a quarter of an hour, till the Sultan was
+announced by the cries of the soldiers, slaves, and domestic officers.
+His highness took his seat upon the mud-bench; and whilst so doing his
+attendants all squatted down, many of them taking up the dust from the
+ground and throwing it over their bare heads, and crying, "Long live the
+Sultan! God bless him!" This is the first occasion on which I have
+witnessed this degrading custom, this abject worship of the
+representative of power. The scene was perfectly African and negro.
+
+I was squatted amidst a number of courtiers, one of whom had a sort of
+double skull, another smaller skull raised above the larger one,--a
+protuberance which came from an accident in infancy. This double-skulled
+man was the chief of the domestics.
+
+The Sultan was in a merry humour, and smilingly asked after my health.
+We then read our letters of recommendation, which pleased him. He
+observed that the route _vi�_ Aheer was good. "How good," asked Yusuf,
+"when we are arrived here naked, and stripped of everything?" At which
+his highness burst out, laughing, with all the people. There was now
+observed a little bustle behind, and his highness called out "Silence!"
+like a sheriff in a court of law. I begged the interpreter to tell the
+Sultan that our present was small, for we had been stripped by the
+Tuaricks. This he whispered in his ear; after which I slipped a packet
+of powder and shot into the hands of one of the principal courtiers,
+telling him it was for the Sultan, and he carried it off. I did not
+place it with the other presents, because the servant of Haj Bashaw,
+sent from Kuka, forbad my giving his highness any powder and shot,
+alleging, that this Sultan was always disaffected, and the Sheikh would
+disapprove of my giving him munitions of war. But I was determined to
+give fifty bullets and two dozen charges of powder, believing that he
+could do the Sheikh little harm, whilst it would make him my personal
+friend. No person knew what I gave the Governor.
+
+The powder and shot being delivered, I took leave of his highness,
+raising my cap and shaking hands with him. At this doffing off the cap
+all the people were highly gratified, thinking great respect was thereby
+shown to their prince.
+
+Ibrahim is a negro, a native of Zinder, a man of fifty years of age,
+with a countenance sparkling with good humour, and I believe I may add,
+intelligence. He has been Sultan here some thirty years, so that he must
+be a man of character. This day he received a renewal of his commission
+from Kuka, a ceremony that takes place every year; and so he was in a
+happy humour. There was also a sort of feast at the palace, and his
+highness rode out with a detachment of cavalry. The persons who brought
+our camels from Kuka also brought the renewed commission, or a man, from
+the Sheikh. Haj Beshir has sent us ten camels, to bring the boat and our
+baggage, in the event of our camels being stolen, or having become weak
+with the journey from Mourzuk. I have, therefore, only to sell my camels
+and turn them into ready money, which I much need, and then start.
+
+We afterwards called again on the Shereef, and had a laugh about the man
+with two skulls. I told the Shereef "two heads were perhaps better than
+one," at which they all burst out laughing. The Shereef was surrounded
+by foreign merchants, all chatting in good humour. These Moors were
+friendly to me. To-day I dressed in my European clothes; first, because
+unless you have very good clothes, such as worn by the people of the
+country, you cut a very bad figure; and secondly, and principally, to
+show the Kailouees, and other strangers, that I was now in a friendly
+place, and that no one dare say anything to me in the way of insult. In
+fact, as yesterday, there is not even a whisper of the word _Kafer_. His
+highness and all the people admired my European gear. I told them that
+now the Turks dressed in the same manner, or nearly so; at which they
+were greatly surprised. I had on a black surtout, tight trousers, and
+varnished boots, gloves, neckerchief, waistcoat; everything European but
+the hat, wearing instead of this the fez cap or shasheeah.
+
+In the evening I paid a visit to the family of En-Noor, who were greatly
+astonished at my transfiguration from a bad Moorish dress into an
+European suit. They were much disconcerted at this change, and my happy
+humour. Madame En-Noor rated me for running away from them yesterday. I
+told them I wished to get to my friends of Bornou as quickly as
+possible. My interpreter also informed them that the Sheikh had sent
+camels, and enlarged on the anxiety of everybody here for our safety.
+They were all displeased at this news, as a reflection upon them and the
+conduct of the Tuaricks. They now beheld quite a change in everything. I
+was anxious to mark this change in our circumstances, that they might
+reflect how they treated Europeans again when fallen into their hands.
+At the same time I showed a desire not to hurt their feelings, wishing
+to be on friendly terms with them whilst here.
+
+The Kailouees are all excessively quiet now. All feel the power of the
+Sheikh, and are almost as submissive as if they were at Mourzuk.
+However, the family of En-Noor still keep begging. But I believe now I
+must finish with them. The Sultan is said by his servants to have gone
+to Tesaoua. I am extremely glad I came without him to this place.
+Perhaps he also was ashamed to bring me. From Tesaoua he will be here
+after some days. People call him, as in Aheer, An-Nour, and not En-Noor.
+The prince of Zinder asked, where is An-Nour? The people are still at
+work preparing this chieftain's apartments, consisting of a circular
+wall of matting, enclosing a number of huts; there is a mud-house in the
+middle, but it is now fallen into ruins.
+
+I made a tour of the town, and was still more pleased than before with
+its size. It is said to contain 20,000 inhabitants. There are many
+divisions, separated by blocks of granite, and small hills. We visited
+the Ka�d of a district. He immediately brought us ghaseb-water and milk.
+Really the world seems turned upside down when the conduct of the people
+here is compared with the hospitality which we received from En-Noor,
+although he personally paid us some attentions not vouchsafed by others.
+We came through the souk, where were the sticks of meat roasting, and
+lots of people. No one whispered _Kafer_! The Shereef sent me a horse to
+ride on when I go out, and recommends me to do so.
+
+The scavengers of Zinder are a multitudinous host of a small species of
+filthy-looking vultures, brown and black in colour: they are exceedingly
+tame, for the people never touch them, and they walk about the streets
+tamer than the fowls. I believe the same species of vulture are also the
+scavengers of Kanou. At Zinder they take their evening exercise by
+flying in circles over the city, a hundred or two together. There are a
+few white ones amongst the flock. The Sultan sent for a piece of camphor
+this morning. I gave him some, with a silver French coin and a new
+English farthing.
+
+The news is, that I must stay here ten days, to oblige the slaves who
+have been sent from Kuka to carry the baggage. We are also to stay at
+Minyo a few days, _en route_ four days from this.
+
+I spent the evening gleaning information of the interior. There is now
+no war in any part of Central Africa, i.e. no great wars. Probably the
+princes of Africa, like those of Europe, find that war will not pay. At
+any rate, all is peace for the present. This will facilitate our
+progress. I had a visit from the son of the Kadi of Kuka, an intelligent
+young man, who has promised to come to-morrow to write the routes from
+Zinder to his native place.
+
+I have obtained a list of the names of the principal sultans in this
+part of Africa:
+
+1. Bornou--The Sheikh Omer, the son of the sheikh who reigned in the
+time of the first expedition. He has now reigned fourteen years. He has
+a good character.
+
+2. Sakkatou--Sultan of the Fellatahs, Ali. He is not so great as his
+father Bello, celebrated in the time of the first expedition.
+
+3. Asben, or Aheer--Abd-el-Kader.
+
+4. Maradee--Binono.
+
+5. Gouber--Aliou (Ali).
+
+6. Niffee--Khaleelou. The name of the capital is Gondu. The Sultan is a
+Fullan, but independent of Sakkatou, as are many other Fullan princes.
+
+7. Adamaua--Lauel. He is called by the Fullans Madubbu-Adamaua, i.e.
+Sultan or Kakam of Adamowa. He is a Fullan, but the people whom he
+governs are all Kohlans, or negroes.
+
+8. Yakobah--Ibrahim. His father was called Yakobah, and the country has
+probably derived its recent name of the late sultan; the capital is
+called Baushi. The rulers are Fellatahs.
+
+9. Kanou--Osman Bel-Ibrahim.
+
+10. Kashna--Mohammed-Bello.
+
+11. Zaria--Mahommed Sani.
+
+12. Kataguni--Abd-er-Rahman.
+
+13. Kadaija--Ahmadou.
+
+14. Timbuctoo--Mohammed Lebbu, a Fellatah.
+
+15. Jinnee--
+
+16. Begharmi--Burkmanda.
+
+17. Mandara--
+
+18. Lagun--
+
+19. Zinder--Ibrahim.
+
+The alliances and enmities, the wars and the intrigues of all these
+princes, will one day, perhaps, form materials for some
+semi-mythological history, when civilisation has removed its camp to
+these intertropical regions. Regular annals, however, there never can
+be. No record seems to be kept, except in the unfaithful memories of the
+natives; and even if the contrary were the case, posterity would
+willingly consign to oblivion all but the salient points of this period
+of barbarism and slave-hunting.
+
+Daura is a city of great antiquity, but I have never seen it on the
+maps. It is two days from Zinder on the route to Kanou, and has now
+about the same number of inhabitants as Zinder, or from 20,000 to
+25,000.
+
+Ancient Haussa, according to the Monshee, consisted of seven cities,
+viz.
+
+1. Kanou.
+
+2. Kashna. This city is now about three times the size of Zinder.
+
+3. Daura.
+
+4. Zaria.
+
+5. Gouber.
+
+6. Maradee.
+
+7. Zanbara. This city is now about the size of Kashna. It lies beyond
+Gouber, not far from Sakkatou.
+
+I went to see the souk. There are two market-days in Zinder: the great
+souk on Thursday, and the little one on Friday, the days following one
+another. I rapidly passed through it; it was full of people and
+merchandise; all things in abundance; no one called after me, but I did
+not like to stay long to expose myself. The principal provisions and
+domestic animals offered for sale are cattle (oxen), sheep, camels,
+asses, goats, beef, mutton, samen, honey, ghaseb, ghafouley, a little
+wheat, dried fish (rather stinking, because no salt is used in drying),
+kibabs or roasted pieces of meat, beans, dankali or sweet potatoes;
+which last are brought from Kanou, as also is the fish, &c. I purchased
+three sweet potatoes for a fifth of a penny. There was, besides, also a
+good quantity of merchandise of every sort, and slaves in numbers. Honey
+also is brought from Kanou to this souk. In Kanou, twelve pounds and
+a-half are sold for four thousand wad�s, or four-fifths of a dollar. In
+Zinder, the same quantity sells for about double the price. They
+adulterate here and send it to Aheer.
+
+In the evening I went with the Shereef to his garden. He has brought
+with him the tastes of the people of Morocco for gardens, and has
+introduced into Zinder tomatas from Kuka. His beds contain onions,
+peppers, cucumbers, wheat, lemons, date-palms, and some other small
+things. There is a little wheat also, but merely as an ornament. The
+date-palms bear twice a-year, but the dates do not dry in this country.
+There is a part of Soudan where the dates are said to become dry as
+those of Fezzan. The lemons are as good as those on the north coast, but
+they are found only in Soudan. But two or three trees have been seen in
+Bornou. Onions are in abundance, and it is said that those people who
+eat onions do not catch the fevers of Soudan. The Shereef considers the
+horses of this country to have little strength--not to be compared with
+those of the north coast. He has sent me one to ride round the environs.
+We conversed upon Algerian affairs. The Shereef said nothing against the
+French in general; he only complained of the non-fulfilment of the
+treaty of capitulation with Abd-el-Kader and his fellow-prisoners. I
+told him Bou M�za was liberated, which news surprised him. He said Bou
+M�za was a fool, and had no followers. All the conversation of the
+Shereef was marked with good sense. He had been in Malta, and resided
+there two months. His native place is two days' journey from Tangiers.
+He is well acquainted with Christians. He speaks with a strong Mogarbi
+accent. As to this country and the Tuaricks, he observed the Sheikh was
+determined to keep them down, and was not afraid of them.
+
+The Shereef possesses a fair amount of women--some twenty, but only one
+son. I sent this evening presents of rings to the ladies.
+
+Yusuf paid a visit to the Sultan this morning, to carry him a present on
+his part. He entered the interior of the building, and found it full of
+dirt, and bare of every species of furniture. The Sultan himself had
+only upon him a Soudan tobe and a white cap. All the rest of his people
+were bare-headed, and were covered with dirty tobes. This contempt of
+dress arises from the fact that the prince was a slave of the ancient
+Sultans of Bornou. There are, besides, other sultans _en route_ to Kuka,
+of the same stamp; but he of Minyo is said to dress excessively,
+changing his costume five times a-day. We are to remain some days in
+Minyo, of which I am glad, because there we shall see the Bornouese
+population, in a purer state. Here it is mixed somewhat with the
+Kailouees and other tribes. At any rate, the manners of the people are
+somewhat influenced by the great number of foreigners. En-Noor and
+Lousou have both houses in Zinder, which the people dignify by the name
+of _belad_ or "villages," but which are simply enclosures of a few huts.
+
+I have been endeavouring to collect materials for the statistics of
+Zinder. The following note exhibits a partial result:--
+
+Various persons give the population of Zinder at 25,000 or 30,000 souls.
+Let us take the number at 20,000.
+
+The military force consists of cavalry and foot--two thousand cavalry
+having swords, spears, and shields; and eight or nine thousand bowmen,
+having only bows and arrows. This force is commanded by one Shroma Dan
+Magram, who receives the enormous pay of half the land taxes of some
+fifty towns and villages in the circle of the province of Zinder. The
+officers of the Sultan of Zinder are mostly slaves.
+
+The principal personages are Shroma Dan Magram; the Kady, Tahir; the
+Bash Kateb, or Secretary, Dang Gambara; the chief of the Treasury,
+Nanomi; of the Custom-house, Fokana. There are four officers of the
+Treasury, and four of the Custom-house; and, moreover, four Viziers, the
+principal of whom is Mustapha Gadalina.
+
+The Arabs do not pay any custom duties, but all the blacks and the
+Kailouees and Fullans pay as follows:--
+
+A camel, laden or unladen -- 5000 wad�s.
+An ass    "         "     --  100  "
+An ox     "         "     --  100  "
+
+There is no duty on goods, and, whether the camels are laden with rich
+burnouses or salt, it is all the same thing.
+
+Camels are very cheap in this country, and the best of all will not
+fetch more than 40,000 wad�s, or about sixteen Spanish dollars. The
+Shereef is to purchase ours, four of them for 120,000 wad�s; they cost
+about three times the sum in Mourzuk. Horses are not quite so cheap; the
+best will fetch 100,000 wad�s.[14] The exchange here is the same as in
+Kanou; 2500 wad�s is the value of the large dollar, or douro ghaleet, as
+it is called amongst the Moorish and Arab merchants.
+
+ [14] See p. 216.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+Presents from Officials--Mode of treating Camels--Prices--Cowrie
+Money--Shereef Interpreter--Visits--Harem--Houses--Grand
+Vizier--Picturesque Dances--Tuaricks at Zinder--Kohlans and
+Fullans--Province of Zinder--Account of its Rebellions--Trees--Details
+on the Slave-trade--Prices--Mode of obtaining Slaves--Abject
+Respect of the Sultan--Visits--Interview with the Sarkee--The
+Presence--Curious Mode of administering Justice--Barbarous
+Punishments--Hy�nas--Gurasu--Fighis--Place of Execution--Tree of
+Death--Hy�na Dens--Dancing.
+
+
+_Jan. 17th._--The Sultan this morning sent me an ox. I made him my
+personal friend by giving him the powder and shot, in spite of the
+servant of Haj Beshir from Kuka. The Shereef is excessively generous;
+whether at his own cost or that of Kuka I do not know. I suppose the
+latter, as he had orders from head-quarters to supply us with
+everything. He sends rice, honey, fowls, eggs, milk, tomatas, and all
+things in abundance. I repeat, for the third time, that the world is
+turned upside down, so far as the supply of provisions and hospitality
+is concerned. It is true that the Tuaricks are desperately poor, and
+their generosity must always be very limited.
+
+Our maharees of the salt-caravan went very well, and ate little on the
+road, so that much time was saved in this way. The Tuarick camels are
+far better travellers than the Arab, which sometimes are allowed to eat
+all day long. The females and the young ones are the most troublesome. I
+was much amused to see one of the Kailouee camel-drivers overcome the
+obstinacy of a young camel. The fellow actually bit the loose skin which
+hung over the muzzle of the rebel, and in this manner dragged it to the
+string, and there tied it to the rest. All the male camels are gelded,
+whilst many breeding maharees carry no weights, but follow their
+burdened kind with their foals.
+
+To-day, for the first time, I received cowrie money, viz. four cases,
+made of matting, each containing 30,000. This was the price of four of
+my camels. The Gharian brute I sold to one of the servants for 8000. It
+is quite a labour to count this money, but I perceive that some persons
+are exceedingly expert at it, and count 5000 in a few minutes. There
+would appear to be always some mistakes made; one case was found to have
+ninety-eight short. This certainly is not much out of 30,000, and when a
+dozen people were counting. The small and large shells are all alike,
+and of the same value. But I shall be able to say more of this money
+afterwards. Thirty thousand of these shells are many pounds in weight,
+and not very conveniently carried about.
+
+I visited some of the principal personages this afternoon, with the
+interpreter of the Sultan. This interpreter is a Shereef, and has been a
+sailor, in which capacity he has seen Malta, and many European
+countries. He is now married to a daughter of the Sultan of Zinder, and
+is established here in the confidence of his father-in-law. It appears,
+then, that even common Moorish sailors make their way in these black
+countries.
+
+The first person we visited was one of the viziers, called Mayaha, a
+native of Damagram, a place one day east, from whence the greater part
+of the population of Zinder is drawn. This personage was sufficiently
+polite. He gave me permission to see the interior of his house, and his
+harem. The harem was full of fine, handsome Haussa slaves, attending on
+his four wives; they were all polished, and apparently clean, lying
+about on the floors of the huts, and in the court-yards, in the most
+strenuous idleness--one cleaning, polishing, and decorating another. One
+was bolder than the rest, and beckoned me to come to her.
+
+This house of this vizier contained many huts of bee-hive shape; one or
+two were built of sun-dried earth, but all were small. Few carpets, or
+even mats, were seen: these people of Zinder are most dearly fond of
+squatting on the naked dust.
+
+Afterwards I visited the Grand Vizier, or Mustapha Gadalina (a title).
+This personage, a man of great age, was polite, but did not permit me to
+enter the interior of his house. We then went to see the
+Commander-in-chief--a funny fellow. He was very civil to us, and to all,
+joking with his soldiers, amidst whom he was squatting. These Zinder
+troops have no arms in their undress, and only wear a loose tobe, with
+bare heads. The General told us he would visit us in the morning.
+
+After a climb to the summit of one of the granite rocks of Zinder to
+have a view of the town, I went to see and hear the drummers hammering
+on their kangas. There were three of them, surrounded by a group of
+Zinder maidens. One fellow had two long drums, very narrow, on which he
+laboured with all his might. The maidens approached the musicians by
+twos, dancing or stepping forward, and retreating with great apparent
+modesty. Whilst I was looking at a couple, one of them ran up to me, and
+struck me lightly with her hand. For this attention I was obliged to
+give her a present of gour-nuts, which are equally current with the
+cowries on such occasions. The drum is the national music of the people
+of Zinder, and they hammer away at it from morning to night. They say
+that in the palace it never ceases all day, beginning at dawn. Perhaps
+it may be esteemed useful in supplying the place of silly conversation.
+
+Very few Tuaricks are to be seen in the streets of this city. They
+rarely show themselves, except on market-days, when they come from their
+houses in the suburbs. Little cordiality exists between them and the
+Binder people. They owe one another, like all neighbouring people, many
+grudges. I jocularly told the commander-in-chief to kill all the
+Tuaricks. He na�vely replied, "I would, but when I attack them they all
+run away!" I am informed by the Moors here the Tuaricks have a wholesome
+dread of the Sheikh, and are on bad terms with the Fullans. They are,
+however, for the most part, friendly with the ancient Kohlans, the
+people of Maradee and Gouber. This accounts for the fact that En-Noor
+always spoke in the most amiable way of these remaining kingdoms of
+Soudan paganism. The town of Zinder is inhabited chiefly by the blacks
+of the Bornouese province of Damagram, who, though speaking the same
+language, are not considered Bornouese. In fact, properly speaking, it
+is situated in that province. The Zinder folks are easily distinguished
+from the natives of Kuka, and those more eastern provinces, by a lighter
+complexion and the smaller breadth of their nostrils.
+
+Zinder has always enjoyed much liberty as a province, though it has
+fallen successively under the influence of Bornou and Haussa princes.
+Anciently it was ruled by the former; then it lapsed to the Haussa
+princes and the Fullans, and finally it was again recovered by Bornou.
+The present prince, Ibrahim, has been sultan twenty-five years. Under
+his rule a rebellion took place against the Sheikh, who removed him,
+made him prisoner, and promoted his brother to the governorship of the
+province. But this new prince also rebelled; upon which the Sheikh came
+with a large force a year ago, and restored the former governor,
+placing, however, several persons here as a check on his authority. I
+have already mentioned the influence of the Shereef of Morocco. But no
+people in the world detest central government so much as the Africans,
+and these rebellions occur yearly and monthly.
+
+The facts which have been mentioned to me connected with the last
+rebellion of Zinder, and its reduction by the Sheikh of Bornou, are
+interesting, as illustrative of the present condition of these
+out-of-the-way countries. The re-conquest proved to be no easy matter,
+and required three months' siege, and sixty thousand men, commanded by
+the Sheikh's best officers and the sultans of the neighbouring
+provinces. When the revolted people had notice of the approach of this
+force, they threw up a wall of earth round the city in the brief space
+of three days only. Even Africans can be energetic when compelled by
+necessity. The siege lasted three months, and many people were killed on
+either side.
+
+Before hostilities commenced the Sheikh sent for the brother of the
+deposed prince, whom he had placed in power at Zinder; but the answer
+was refusal. "If you want money," said the rebel chieftain, "here it is;
+if you want slaves, here they are;--but I will not come to Kuka."
+Ibrahim, the former and present sultan, had meanwhile gone to the
+capital, and covered himself with dust in the presence of the Sheikh,
+and obtained his pardon and the promise of his restoration to power. His
+brother knew this well, and, of course, would not go to the capital. It
+is surprising, however, that the rebellion could hold out so long
+against so large a force; the people of Zinder must be framed for war.
+The Tuaricks during the struggle stood by and looked on. The displaced
+brother is now at Kuka, having there obtained the pardon of the Sheikh.
+He fled to the Tuaricks after the capture of the town.
+
+There are several pretty shady trees scattered through the town of
+Zinder, planted mostly in the gardens of the grandees. The names of
+three of these are, in Bornouese, rimi, jaja, and ilbug.
+
+I have obtained some information on the slave-trade, which I here give
+in its crude shape. Slaves are classed as follows:--
+
+MALES.
+
+1st. Garzab: those who have a beard.
+ 2d. Morhag: those with beard beginning.
+ 3d. Sabaai: those without beard.
+4th. Sadasi: grown children.
+5th. Hhamasi, or children.
+
+
+FEMALES.
+
+Ajouza, old women, not classified.
+1st. Shamalia: those with the breasts hanging down.
+ 2d. Dabukia: those with the breasts plump.
+ 3d. Farkhah: those with little breasts.
+4th. Sadasia: girls, smaller.
+5th. Hhamasiah, or children.
+
+The best of the slaves now go to Niffee, to be there shipped for
+America; they are mostly males, of the class 2d, 3d, 4th, and are
+minutely examined before departure. From all reports, there is an
+immense traffic of slaves that way exchanged against American goods,
+which are driving out of the markets all the merchandise of the north.
+
+
+_Prices:_--I. MALES.
+
+1st. From 10,000 to 15,000 wad�s.
+ 2d.      30,000 and under.
+ 3d.      35,000    "
+4th.      30,000    "
+5th.      20,000    "
+
+II. FEMALES.
+
+1st.  10,000 and under. (Ajouza.)
+ 2d.  80,000    "
+ 3d. 100,000    "
+4th.  40,000    "
+5th.  30,000    "
+6th.  20,000    "
+
+The above are the prices of Kanou; there is sometimes a difference of
+5,000 or 10,000 wad�s. A remark suggested by this list of prices is,
+that the value of human merchandise is determined by its present
+adaptation for consumption. No allowance is made for capability of
+development, intellectual or physical. Slave-drivers and slave-holders
+believe as little in a future here as hereafter.
+
+I give another account of the prices of slaves at the principal markets
+in this part of Africa, and at Smyrna and Constantinople. A good male
+slave is sold, at
+
+Kanou, for 10 or 12 dollars.
+Zinder, the price varies little.
+Mourzuk, for 40 dollars.
+Tripoli, from 60 to 65 dollars.
+Smyrna, 90 to 100 dollars.
+Constantinople, 90 to 100 dollars.
+
+A good female slave is sold, at
+
+Kanou, for 32 dollars.
+Zinder, a little more, or the same.
+Mourzuk, 85 dollars.
+Tripoli, 100 dollars.
+Smyrna, 130 dollars.
+Constantinople, 130 dollars.
+
+This is merely to show the difference of prices at these various places
+of slave traffic, and so enable the reader to form some notion of the
+profits of the commerce.
+
+I am very sorry to hear of the iniquitous manner in which slaves are
+captured for the supply of the north at this present time. It appears
+that, now all these populations are Muslims, it is difficult to get up
+the war-cry of _Kafers!_--"Infidels!" What is then done? The sultan of a
+province foments a quarrel with a town or village belonging to himself,
+and then goes out and carries off all the people into slavery. Thus acts
+the present Sultan of Zinder, and so did his brother during his year of
+administration. To appease the Sheikh of Bornou they send him a portion
+of the spoil. Indeed, the Sheikh countenances the system, so detrimental
+to his interests as a sovereign, and so immoral in its character. The
+brother of the present sultan was accustomed to go out every month, and
+bring in razzias of slaves, particularly to Dura, a country which
+belongs half to the Sheikhs of the Fullans. The real Kerdi people are
+now very distant, and you must go many days' journey if you will catch
+genuine Kafer slaves.
+
+On Friday, Yusuf paid his respects to the Sultan at noon, being the
+Sunday of the Muslims, when visits are made by true believers to the
+princes. He found his highness surrounded by his court, in a cloud of
+dust, which the people raised by throwing it in handfuls upon their
+heads, and thus doing homage to their prince. Yusuf and some other Moors
+obstinately abstained from such a grovelling mode of "rendering to
+C�sar the things which are C�sar's," and contented themselves with
+saluting his highness in the Moorish fashion. Yusuf observed, "Our
+religion does not teach this servility." The natives salute their Sultan
+by the cry of "God give you victory!" (i.e. over your enemies.) In
+Soudanee this phrase is "_Allah sh�b�ka nasara_;" and in Bornouese,
+"_K�bunam sherga!_"
+
+_18th._--I sent letters for Government and my wife _vi�_ Kuka, as
+caravans are expected to leave Bornou for Moursuk about this time. My
+rooms were full of visitors to-day. First came the commander-in-chief,
+Shroma. I showed him all my treasures, portable peepshow, kaleidoscope,
+&c. &c. He was marvellously pleased. I treated him also with sugar, but
+coffee he positively refused as too bitter. He brought with him some
+twenty of his troops and a chosen aide-de-camp. He is just the man for a
+negro commander, full of cunning and address, very active if necessary,
+and on familiar terms with his men, pleasing them by low fun and
+buffoonery. Afterwards came the sons of the Sultan, all of whom I
+treated with sugar and coffee: that is, as many as would venture to
+taste of it. Then followed a host of Fezzan merchants, with the son of
+the Kadi of Kuka--a very nice, pleasant young fellow, who writes pretty
+good Arabic. He is to make out for me the route from Zinder to Kuka.
+
+I afterwards went to the Sultan himself, to show him my treasures, viz.
+peepshows and kaleidoscope. These barbarians are nothing but great
+wilful children. I also took the compass. We entered the interior of the
+building, where we found a number of officers, courtiers and slaves,
+squatted together on the sand, chatting most familiarly on all subjects.
+The building is all made of mud, mixed with large grains of granite.
+They say all the buildings of Bornou are built in the same manner, and
+very few of stone, on account of the rain; for the stone, not being well
+cemented together, falls during the great rains of the tropics.
+
+After we had been kept waiting about half an hour his highness made his
+appearance, the courtiers and slaves throwing dust on their heads,
+prostrating themselves on the ground before him, crying, "God give you
+victory over your enemies!" Whilst the Sultan took his seat upon the
+raised mud-bench, the slaves held up two wrappers or barracans, to
+shield his highness from public view whilst he took his seat. All the
+floor of the apartment was covered with a dense mass of people, and
+amongst the number several Tuaricks, including the Sheikh Lousou, and
+Haj Abdoua, another distinguished Tuarick. Lousou is a tall thin man, of
+light complexion, with European features--a perfect Targhee. His manners
+were very mild, and indeed all this tribe are gentle enough here in a
+foreign country. The Sheikh shook me cordially by the hands. I then
+commenced business as showman to the prince and this mass of people. At
+first his highness was timid, and would not look through the glasses of
+the peepshows, but when the people began he followed, and acquired the
+knack of looking through in a very short time. My compass and watch and
+keys were then all examined, and produced great amusement. What pleased
+him much was the screw by which the compass was stopped. I was
+dreadfully frightened lest the watch should be broken as well as the
+compass, and indeed the former has received some damage: such machines
+should not be handled by these negro grandees.
+
+Whilst this examination was going on, his highness, as if he had little
+time to lose, continued to administer justice. Several cases were
+settled whilst the worthy Sultan was looking through the peepshow and
+kaleidoscope. Among others, a man came forward in great agitation, and
+cried, "O Sultan! my wife will not live with me, and has run away to her
+father. I will give you three bullocks if you will fetch her back and
+make her live with me!" The Sultan smiled, and observed only, "Hem, your
+wife won't live with you! Well, what can I do?" Another man came forward
+and cried, "O Sultan! I am a thief, but you must pardon me. I stole this
+mat because I was a poor man" (holding up the mat). "I restore the mat."
+His highness observed, "Leave it; I will see what can be done." A
+collection of stolen articles was restored also by another person. Then
+came a man more bold, and brought a present from a neighbouring village,
+consisting of two large bowls of ghaseb and a bundle of wood. The man
+made a great clamour, holding up the present. His highness looked at
+him, and said, "Good, good; put them down."
+
+I am told his highness is much feared by all the people of the
+provinces. He has the character of being impartial. But the way in which
+he carries out capital punishment is truly terrible, and beyond
+conception barbarous. He neither hangs nor beheads. This mode of
+punishment is too mild for him. No; he actually cuts open the chest, and
+rips out the heart! or else hangs up people by the heels, and so
+inflicts upon them a lingering death. I am astonished that the Sheikh of
+Bornou permits such barbarity, but imagine that the Sheikh is still
+afraid of his vassal, and shrinks from endeavouring to deprive him of
+this awful power. Here, then, we have a specimen of the negro character,
+with all its contradictions; soft and effeminate in its ordinary moods;
+cheerful, and pleasant, and simple, to appearance; but capable of
+acting, as it were without transition, the most terrible deeds of
+atrocity. Say what you will of the barbarism of the Tuaricks, such a
+mode of inflicting capital punishment is unknown amongst them. I took
+leave of his highness, promising to come again another day and bring
+other things.
+
+This evening we were disturbed by the cries of the hy�na; a large one
+had come down upon the calves belonging to a drove of bullocks, and
+carried off one as big as itself. The brute seizes its prey by the
+throat, and so prevents the animal from giving intelligence to its
+pursuers. The place of execution is near my house, and when the Sultan
+executes any criminal the body is left unburied. At such times, troops
+of hy�nas, old and young, come down in the night, from the rocks and
+open country, and devour the body in a few minutes. The jackal does not
+visit this place, but is found in the open country. There are also many
+lions on the road between this and Kuka.
+
+A very simple mode of salutation is prevalent here in Zinder, said to be
+the custom of Wada�--that of merely clapping the palms of the hand
+together; the hand being held forward flat, not edge-ways.
+
+Gurasu is an interesting Tuarick territory, three days' journey
+north-east from Zinder, and two days from Minyo. This country consists
+of a number of small villages, scattered upon the rocks, or mountains.
+The inhabitants are especially those banditti who, from time to time,
+plunder the caravans on the route from Bornou to Mourzuk. Gurasu is
+seven days from Kanem, and Kanem is three days from the Bornou route.
+Kanem is mostly a desert country, and has now only a few inhabitants.
+
+Gurasu and Damerghou are the only Tuarick countries adjoining the
+provinces of the Sheikh of Bornou, and Gurasu is the last country east
+in this part of Africa. There is but very slight communication between
+it and Zinder; and little is known of the people, except that they are
+Tuaricks.
+
+_19th._--I again entertained visitors, who are still numerous, of all
+classes; and also paid a visit to the Shereef, and took with me the
+kaleidoscope, as he expressed a wish to see its revolving glowing
+beauties.
+
+Zinder is full of half-crazy fighis, who can just write the Arabic
+alphabet. They go about the streets begging piteously, with a calabash
+inkstand and reed-pen in their hands. I have been pestered with two or
+three every day since I came here. They also wander through the country
+parts of Damerghou. Bornou is the nursery of these silly pedagogues, in
+whom learning and madness are most cordially united; but, as I have
+already mentioned, it sends out a few instructed ones to redeem the
+reputation of these ignoramuses.
+
+In the afternoon I went to see the place of execution, and found it
+covered with human bones, the leavings of the hy�nas, whose dens are
+close by. Proceeding a little further I came to the Tree of Death! a
+lonely tree springing out of the rocks, some forty or fifty feet in
+height, and of the species called here _kanisa_. My guide would not
+approach it very near, for he assured me that if any person went under
+its boughs, there must instantly come an order from the Sultan to put
+him to death, or hang him heels upwards upon its branches. "Don't you
+see the place is swept clean underneath its boughs? This is done every
+day, and by the executioner alone: no other person dare go there, for if
+he do he must die!" I certainly began to feel sick myself at the recital
+of various horrors perpetrated at this place by the executioner, and
+don't know whether, if any one had offered me some great reward, I would
+have ventured to place my feet upon this accursed spot of mother earth.
+Never in my life did I feel so sick at heart--so revolted at man's
+crimes and cruelties. The tree itself was a true picture of death--a
+tree of dark, impenetrable foliage, with a great head, or upper part
+larger than the lower one, and this head crowned with fifty filthy
+vultures, the ministers of the executioner, which eat the bodies of the
+criminals! The number of executions here performed is very great--some
+two or three hundred in a year. Since we have been here a man has been
+butchered in the night, scarcely a hundred yards from my house; so that
+I am in a pleasant neighbourhood, what with the executions and what with
+the hy�nas. The people pretend that for a small offence the Sultan
+inflicts capital punishments: for example, merely speaking bad language.
+
+Turning from these disagreeable scenes, we went to see the dens of the
+hy�nas, which are beneath the rocks, extending far under ground. Here
+we saw bones and dung enough. The scavengers of Zinder are, therefore,
+the vultures and hy�nas: the former wing the air and dart on their prey
+by day, and the latter prowl the streets by night.
+
+In the evening we refreshed our fancies by witnessing the kanga, or
+drums beating to the dances of the maidens of Zinder. It is always the
+same thing, two or three fellows thumping upon their drums, dancing
+round them occasionally themselves, and the maidens approaching these
+drummers with timid steps. To-night they had a sort of hopping-dance, on
+one leg, keeping time to the beating of the drums. These coy maidens
+soon approached, or rather ran at me, and touched me with the hand; this
+done, they claim the right of a present. It is considered a favour to be
+so distinguished.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+
+Brother of the Sultan--Trade of Zinder--Prices--The Sarkee drinks
+Rum--Five Cities--Houses of Zinder--Female Toilette--Another Tree of
+Death--Paganism--Severity of the Sultan--Lemons--Barth and
+Overweg--Fire--Brother of the Sarkee--Daura--Shonshona--Lousou--Slaves
+in Irons--Reported Razzia--Talk with the Shereef--Humble
+Manners--Applications for Medicines--Towns and Villages of Zinder--The
+great Drum--Dyers--Tuarick Visits--Rationale of Razzias--Slaves--"Like
+Prince like People"--French in Algiers--The Market--Old Slave--Infamous
+System--Plan of the great Razzia.
+
+
+_Jan. 20th._--I received visits as usual, and one from a younger brother
+of the Sultan, whom I treated with coffee; and I also gave him a cotton
+handkerchief and a ring, so that he went away highly satisfied. He had a
+numerous train, all of whom had a peep at the show and a bit of sugar.
+This brother of the Sultan is a pleasant-looking fellow, a very
+different character from the man in power. He asked for saffron to
+colour charms with; but I had none to give him.
+
+Those who expect to find Zinder a great commercial d�p�t will be much
+disappointed. The principal merchants here are the Sheikhs En-Noor and
+Lousou, and the other Tuarick of Asben, whom I have mentioned, called
+Haj Abdoua. Of Zinder merchants there are but two of consequence, the
+Morocco Shereef, Konchai, and Haj Amurmur, a Tibboo. The latter is
+always resident; but Abd-Effeit, or Shereef Konchai, goes abroad and
+trades. Both these are foreigners. There are, besides, a number of small
+traders, Tibboos and Fezzanees, who drive a few hard bargains with the
+Governor. At the present moment his highness has no money. All the
+specie is quickly carried off to Kuka. The Tuaricks have the goods and
+the money, and often make their own prices; but as they always demand
+ready cash, are obliged to wait long before they can dispose of their
+goods. Burnouses alone bring a great profit; for these are sold to
+sultans, who require a credit of several months. I am afraid I shall
+have to give a very poor account of the commerce of this portion of
+Africa, with reference to its being profitable to Europeans. The greater
+part of the goods in Kanou are cheaper than those found in the markets
+of Fezzan, or even Tripoli. The only way in which this commerce pays the
+Moorish merchants is by the purchase of slaves; and this, from casual
+circumstances _en route_, frequently turns out a loss. All the traders
+found on this road are mostly poor fellows, with small capitals: there
+is no equal to Waldee.
+
+Here is a statement of the prices of provisions in the market of
+Zinder:--
+
+An ox, 10,000 wad�s (for riding).
+
+A cow, for food, 8000.
+
+(N.B. Cows only are eaten, bullocks being used for riding and carrying
+burdens.)
+
+A sheep of the first quality, 1500 wad�s.
+
+A goat of the first quality, 1000.
+
+A good fowl, 100.
+
+A horse (of the best kind and condition), 1,000,000.[15]
+
+An ass: he, 8000 wad�s; she, 6000 wad�s.
+
+A zekka of ghaseb: large, 10 wad�s; small, 6 wad�s.
+
+(N.B. When there is but little rain, a zekka of ghaseb consists only of
+two handfuls.)
+
+A pound of samen, 40 wad�s.
+
+A pound of honey, 60 wad�s.
+
+A zekka of wheat, or one handful, 10 wad�s.
+
+A zekka of rice, or about six handfuls, is 20 wad�s.
+
+A canto of salt, of the weight of about a quarter of a cantar, is now
+sold for 1200, because the salt-caravan has just arrived; but after two
+or three months it will fetch 2500 wad�s.
+
+ [15] 83_l._ 6_s._ The price mentioned in a former page, viz.
+      1000,000 wad�s is evidently erroneous.--ED.
+
+His highness the Sultan expressed the most ardent desire to see and make
+himself acquainted with the rum, and other strong drinks of the
+Christians, having heard from his son-in-law and interpreter, the little
+Shereef, that I had a supply of these liquors with me. After resisting
+some time, I delivered up to his highness half a bottle of mastic, with
+which retiring to his innermost chamber, and taking with him his
+son-in-law, he made himself very merry; so much so, that he was unable
+to make his appearance in public or justice-hall all this day.
+
+The immediate territories of Bornou contain five large and important
+capitals, viz. Zinder, which belongs to Haj Beshir, the prime minister.
+
+Mashena, belonging to Mala Ibrahim, second minister.
+
+Minyo, belonging to Abd-Er-Rahman, brother of the Sheikh.
+
+Yumbi, belonging to the mother of the Sultan.
+
+These capitals are the centres of large populations and provinces.
+
+The taxes are appropriated by the various personages to whom they are
+given by the Sheikh, but these personages are expected to give up to his
+highness the greater part of the funds which they derive from them.
+
+_21st._--I made various routes, and got a statement of the principal
+articles of commerce, as current in Zinder and Kanou, Mourzuk and
+Tripoli. I repeat, there is no chance for an English merchant in this
+part of Africa.
+
+The houses of Zinder are mostly built of double matting, but a good
+number have mud walls and thatched roofs. Others are all built of mud.
+There are no nice mosques with minarets. The residence of the Sultan is
+a fort of mud, with walls of some height; it overlooks all the other
+buildings. The Shereef Kebir has also a mud house, with walls of some
+height. There are two principal streets, running from the south to the
+north; one terminating at the castle of the Governor, and the other in
+the market. These are of some width, there being space for a dozen
+camels to pass abreast. There are, besides, many little squares before
+the houses of the grandees, where the people lounge: the streets are
+always full of idle people.
+
+Instead of _suak_, the women used here the calix of a flower, called
+_furai_, for staining their teeth with a deep amber colour. It is the
+fashion for ladies to dress their hair in solid knots, two of which fall
+over the temples, one over the ear, and the other at the back of the
+head. Some of the women have hair tolerably long. I noticed to-day the
+shonshonah of Daura. It consists of two thick cuts, forming an angle at
+the corner of the mouth, with a few small ones on the temples.
+
+I went to see another Tree of Death, where his highness slaughters
+criminals in the same way as mentioned under the other tree. The space
+beneath the boughs is also swept clean. This tree is more spreading, and
+of another sort; it is crowned with the filthy vultures, which roost day
+and night in considerable numbers on its upper branches. Yusuf tells me
+the history of these trees, when the inhabitants were pagans. It was
+under them that the people sacrificed their oxen and sheep to the deity,
+who was supposed to reside in these trees. Scarcely a generation has
+elapsed since this was the case, so that the people may well dread to
+venture where, in the time of old men yet living, sacrifices, some
+perhaps human, were offered up.
+
+The Sheikh is obliged to keep a tight hand over the inhabitants of
+Zinder, to prevent them from lapsing into paganism. His father made them
+Muslims, and he holds them to the profession of Islamism.
+
+No news from Tesaoua respecting the four persons who were sent to bring
+Drs. Barth and Overweg first to Bornou, before they went to Soudan. I
+have had several patients, but ophthalmia does not prevail here as in
+Damerghou.
+
+A constant succession of visitors troubled me all day long. Another son
+of the Sultan came this morning--quite a young man--and a dozen of boys
+from the palace, some sons of the Sultan, and others of his ministers. I
+gave them all a little piece of white sugar, and sent them off. This is
+the cheapest present.
+
+I am told that all the Tuaricks are dreadfully afraid of the Sultan of
+Zinder, for whenever his highness catches an offender, let him be of
+what tribe of Tuaricks he may, he cuts off his head with as much
+unconcern as a poulterer of Leadenhall market does that of a goose.
+
+I hear now that, since the dispersion of the Walad Suleiman, the route
+of Bornou, from Kuka to the Tibboos, is quite secure.
+
+Some lemons have been brought to me, equal in flavour, though small, to
+those of the north coast. In Soudan they are marvellously cheap; ten are
+sold at Kanou for the fiftieth part of a penny, viz. one wad�; for the
+same single wad� forty can be had at Kashna. There are forests of
+lemon-trees in Soudan.
+
+The news has arrived from the salt-caravan, that Barth says that he will
+not return even if they threaten to cut his throat. En-Noor is at
+Tesaoua, and says they should return; but the salt-caravan is distant
+from him, and the communication between the two places is difficult.--I
+had scarcely written these words when the four people sent to bring back
+Drs. Barth and Overweg returned without them, and brought letters from
+my colleagues, each one stating that he should continue his journey as
+previously determined. Ferajee, one of the messengers, pretends that
+En-Noor is going with Overweg to Maradee; which is very unlikely. Dr.
+Barth seems very angry, but his comrade takes matters more easily.
+
+The Shereef Kebir is said to be the only person who has money in Zinder.
+This man monopolises all the power and all the money. I do not know how
+long this will last, but I should think it will soon make both the
+Sultan and the people of Zinder disaffected. As it is, all the merchants
+of Zinder are foreigners, and so have the disposal of all the goods most
+coveted by the blacks, who have only the ghaseb and the cattle.
+
+_22d._--The morning is hazy and mild, the thermometer standing at 57�.
+
+A fire broke out close to us early this morning, and two or three huts
+were immediately consumed. However, the people quenched the flames in a
+very short time. I wonder half the town is not burnt down every now and
+then. Visitors pour in upon me as soon as I am up and dressed; and some
+patients likewise.
+
+The brother of the present Sarkee of Zinder, who ruled a year in Zinder,
+is called Tanimu. He has a great military reputation, and is a brave
+man. During his administration he razzied no less than thirty countries.
+Daura, or Dura, was the principal theatre of his exploits. This Daura is
+a country consisting of about a thousand towns and villages; four
+hundred belonging to the Fullans, and six hundred to the Sheikh of
+Bornou. The Fullanee Sultan is called Mohammed Bello, and he of the
+Sheikh, Sofo Lukudi. The nearest place in Daura is not more than one day
+S.W. of Zinder. The people of the country are remarkably expert in the
+use of the bow and arrow; and their arrows are very strong, piercing
+through, as the people say, _three_ boxes, and afterwards killing a man.
+The wound of these arrows is fatal, the flesh of the smitten part rising
+up immediately into an enormous swelling. The brother of the present
+Sarkee brought in hundreds of slaves from Daura, the people at the same
+time having risen against the authority of the Sheikh.
+
+The blacks of Kanou--not the Fullans--do not scarify their faces like
+their neighbours. The form of the shonshona of Zinder and its provinces
+is four cuts on each side the cheek, but not drawn very near the corner
+of the mouth; that is, rather towards the ears. In Tumbi and Gumel,
+provinces of Bornou, they draw four on the left side of the cheek and
+five on the right side; the cuts not drawn very near either the corner
+of the mouth or the ears. Maradee and Kashna have six cuts on each side
+of the cheek, drawn from the top of the ears down to the corner of the
+mouth. Gouber has four small cuts close to the corner of the mouth. The
+people of the Sheikh of Bornou have two small cuts drawn down the face,
+under each eyelid, and one in the forehead, between the eyes. Even Mekka
+has its shonshona. One of the shereefs here in Zinder, who was born in
+that holy city, has three small cuts on each side his face, drawn down
+the fleshy part of the cheek. It is only in Mekka that the shonshona is
+seen. The other countries of Arabia do not use this disfigurement.[16]
+
+ [16] Many Egyptians, men and women, practise tattooing; and if I
+      mistake not, I have seen evidences of the existence of the
+      practice mentioned in the text in some parts of Egypt.--ED.
+
+The Sheikh Lousou sent his slave to salute me on his part. They say,
+that had we been committed to his care, he would not have fleeced us
+like En-Noor. But I almost question if he would have been strong enough
+to protect us. I observe, again, that all the Tuaricks are well behaved
+in Zinder, and have a wholesome dread of the Sheikh.
+
+Many of the domestic slaves in Zinder are constantly ironed, for fear
+they should run away to the neighbouring towns and villages. The poor
+people live just like convicts. It is only when they are taken to Kuka,
+or to a great distance, that their irons are struck off.
+
+The report is now current in Zinder, that the Sarkee is going, in the
+course of seven or eight days, to razzia some neighbouring place in the
+direction of Daura. They say, even, that he will not scruple to razzia
+some of the villages of Meria if necessary; that is to say, a part of
+the province of Zinder. My informants observed merely, "Oh, he must have
+slaves to pay his debts; and as the largest fish eat the little fish, so
+the great people eat the small people." Thus the protection of Islamism
+is now come to nothing, and the cry is,--"To the razzia!" without
+mentioning even the name of Kafer or Kerdi. In the end this will retard
+the progress of Mahommedanism; for the blacks see that it is now no
+protection for them against their more powerful neighbours and their
+periodical razzias.
+
+I visited several personages this afternoon; first, the Shereef Kebir,
+with whom I ate some broiled fish brought from a neighbouring lake, and
+some fine Bilma dates, soaked in milk. I asked him how it was that the
+Sheikh committed to the governors or sultans of the provinces the awful
+power of life and death. "Oh," replied he, "the Sheikh has given them
+this power that he might not be bothered with their reports about
+criminals. It is far better to finish quick with these people." Where
+there are periodical razzias the sacredness of human life is unknown,
+and the Shereef has been, besides, many years in the camp of
+Abd-el-Kader, where a good deal of sanguinary work was carried on. He
+thought it, therefore, quite right that the Sheikh should not fatigue
+his sovereign conscience by deciding on the lives of criminals and other
+suspected persons, and that the sooner they were hung or slaughtered the
+better.
+
+From the Shereef I passed on to the brother of the Sultan, a young man
+of mild manners. I entered the inner part of the house, where were the
+women. Verily the Zinder people have a strange love of dust, dirt, and
+bare mud walls. In the two or three beehive huts which I explored, there
+was not a single article of furniture, nor a mat to lie down upon. The
+brother of the Sultan was sitting by his sister, and both on the dust of
+the ground, without a mat. I am told, however, that they sleep on mats
+and skins, which are, indeed, cheap enough; two or three pence, or two
+or three hundred wad�s, would purchase a good one. The sister of the
+Sultan was coloured well with indigo, the dark blue of which replaces
+the yellow ochre of the ladies of fashion in Aheer. This Zinder lady had
+also the end of the tufts of her hair--I cannot call them curls--formed
+into clayey sticks of macerated indigo. For the rest, she had little
+clothing, her arms and bust being quite bare. All the other ladies with
+her were coloured in like fashion, and had their hair dressed in a
+similar manner.
+
+Afterwards I visited an old Tripoline Mamluke, who has been up here
+twenty-two long years. He came alone, and has now a household of
+twenty-eight persons, including wives, children, and slaves. He is
+called Mohammed El-Wardi, knew Dr. Oudney, and even mentioned his name,
+recollecting it after so many years. He knew also the other travellers.
+Some of his family are in Kuka.
+
+Various applications are made me for remedies to avert certain evils,
+and one man applied for a means to make him sell his goods quick: this
+was a Tibboo trader.
+
+It would appear that some of the routes from Zinder to neighbouring
+places are not very safe; that from this place to Kanou, even, is
+somewhat dangerous for small parties, there being woods on the road, in
+which lurk banditti, who lie in wait for unprotected caravans. With good
+travelling, Kanou is only eight or ten days from Zinder, and Kashna four
+or five. It is not easy to get the route here by hours, for the people
+are ignorant of this way of reckoning the routes. By days, something may
+be done.
+
+The Moorish merchants resident here pretend that the territory of Zinder
+contains no less than two thousand _belad_, or inhabited spots, towns,
+villages, and hamlets, and some of these are large towns--as large, or
+larger, than Zinder. Damagram is a populous place, more so than Zinder;
+but the whole of the province of Zinder has this name, the people being
+all Damagrama. The town of Damagram was once the capital of the
+province. The large towns are:--
+
+Damagram, one day and a-half south-east.
+Dakusa, five hours south.
+Termeni, three hours south.
+Washa, two days and a-half west.
+Goshi, two days east.
+Bidmuni, one day east.
+Andera, one day east.
+Jegana, one day south.
+Jermo, one day south.
+Guria, one-half day west.
+Meria, six hours south-east.
+Konchai, one day and a-half west.
+Gorgahn, one-half hour.
+Mageria, two days south-west.
+Fatram, two days south.
+Dalladi, six hours north.
+
+All these are towns, some larger than Zinder.
+
+I expect to see the great drum brought here, and to hear it beaten. It
+has led the people of Zinder to the razzia during the time of twelve
+sultans. The drummer, when he beats the drum in leading on the people to
+the razzia, repeats the perpetual chorus of _Jatau chi geri_--"The red
+(Sultan) eats up the country." He is afraid to mention the name of the
+Sultan, and so repeats the word red, as distinguishing royalty; but
+whether in the same way as purple distinguished the Roman emperors, or
+because kings delight in blood, does not appear.
+
+I went to see the process of indigo dyeing. The dyers bore circular pits
+of about fifteen or twenty feet deep, and three feet in diameter, in
+which they throw the things to be dyed, and leave them there. The pits
+are full of the dye, produced by the leaves and the seed of the plant
+called _nila_, sodden in water. They dye tobes and raw cotton, and
+cotton twist; the work is carried on in the open air. About thirty
+people were employed at the pits which I saw. They also prepare indigo
+in a better way than what I saw at these pits.
+
+_23d._--I have not quite done with the Tuaricks, and had many visitors
+of that tribe to-day; amongst the rest, our old friends and robbers,
+Ferajee and Deedee. I told Ferajee I had my boxes full of gold and
+silver, and asked him to buy. He replied, "Ah, el-Consul did not say so
+in Asben; he said _babo_ (there is none)!" At this, all our visitors
+burst out in a roaring laugh. I rejoined, "Oh, no, Ferajee; because I
+was then amongst thieves and robbers." (Continued laughter.) I went to
+see the souk;--everybody was very civil;--no calling Kafer!--Tuaricks
+all as still as mice.
+
+I called upon the Shereef Kebir, and drank with him tea and coffee,
+which he makes in Magrabi fashion, putting the sugar in the tea-pot. I
+observed, "How is this? I hear the Sultan is going soon on a razzia."
+Somewhat disconcerted, he replied, _Allah y�lem!_--"God teaches!" After
+some time, he explained that the Sheikh left his vassals great liberty
+in this matter; that the Sultan of Zinder was permitted to go to Daura
+and eat up the Kohlans, but not the Fullans, between whom and the Sheikh
+there was peace: that is to say, the Fullans were not to be made slaves,
+but the Kohlan subjects of the Fullans might be captured. The Sheikh was
+not friendly to Maradee, and wished the Sultan of Zinder to attack that
+country; but the Sarkee was a friend of Maradee, and would not, &c. &c.
+So it is quite clear these Sarkees, or at any rate the one in Zinder,
+have great latitude of action. After hesitating still more about these
+razzias, the Shereef said, "Oh, you see the strong devour the weak;
+there are no regular governments here."
+
+In the souk to-day, it was proved beyond all doubt that the Zinder
+people sell themselves into foreign slavery. Many of the slaves for sale
+had the Zinder scarified marks on their faces. There were also specimens
+from Maradee. Slaves are sent from Zinder to Niffee. Indeed, it now
+appears that all this part of Africa is put under contribution to supply
+the South American market with slaves.
+
+Zinder is considered within the circle of Soudan, and not to be Bornou,
+but only a Bornouese province. The Sheikh has in this province several
+Tuarick subjects, i.e. Tuaricks settled in the Zinder provinces.
+
+The souk to-day was full of people, but goods of value were wanting.
+Indeed, Zinder is now a poor place. Only the foreigners have any at
+their command. The Sarkee is at this moment desperately poor, and is
+going on this approaching razzia to raise money to satisfy his
+creditors. Verily, this _is_ a "new way to pay old debts."
+
+I heard a curious explanation of the reason why the people of Zinder do
+not use mats or skins to lie down upon in the daytime. It is said they
+are afraid, because the Sarkee does not use them, and they must not
+display a luxurious taste not practised by their prince. This is the
+explanation of the Shereef and the little court of Arabs and Moors by
+which he is surrounded. "Like people like prince" is a proverb which I
+think I have heard.
+
+The Shereef told me this morning that he had made war with France, in
+Algeria, fourteen years, and he had been a prisoner of the French seven
+months. He said the French were people without religion, or faith in
+their words and promises, and could not be trusted. He showed me his
+French passport. However, he seems to have soon forgotten his troubles
+in Algeria, and is quiet now. He writes well, and has received a good
+education. His country is one day east of Tetuan, in the Rif mountains.
+He is likely to be very useful to the Sheikh in Zinder.
+
+I visited the souk again in the evening, and made a few small purchases
+of curiosities; but there are very few things to be got in this market,
+and those mostly come from Kanou. What things are made here are of the
+rudest manufacture.
+
+I passed the slave-market, and was greatly shocked to see a poor old
+woman for sale amongst the rest of human beings. She was offered for six
+thousand wad�s, about ten shillings in English money. It is quite
+impossible to conjecture of what use such a poor old creature can be.
+The Shereef Kebir made a present of a little boy to Sa�d of Haj Beshir
+this evening. The poor little fellow looked very pitiful. He was stolen
+from Daura. He has only one cheek marked with the shonshona, because his
+mother lost all the children which she bare before him; and the custom
+is, when a mother thus loses her children, to scarify only one cheek.
+
+The mode of supplying the slave-markets of the north and south is truly
+nefarious, and perhaps surpasses all the wickedness of the Tuaricks. The
+Sarkee of Zinder wants gour-nuts, and has no money to purchase them; he
+sends his servants or officers to a neighbouring village, and they steal
+in open day two or three families of people, and bring them to the
+Sarkee. These poor wretches are immediately exchanged for the gour-nuts.
+A boy steals some trifling articles--a few needles; he is forthwith sold
+in the souk; and not only he, but "if the Sarkee wants money," his
+father and mother, brothers and sisters: and "if the Sarkee is very much
+pressed for money," his familiars search for the brothers of the father,
+and all their relations. Indeed, crime is a lucrative source of supply
+for the prince, and what his vengeance spares from the executioner is
+sold into foreign slavery.
+
+In the approaching razzia, the Sarkee is expected to take the common
+route of Daura, and carry off the villagers subjected to the Sheikh;
+for, contrary to the opinion of the Shereef Kebir, the Sarkee will not
+attack the Kohlans, who are the subjects of the Fullan, but the _bon�
+fide_ subjects of the Sheikh. He will probably bring back one thousand
+slaves or captives. He will send two hundred to the Sheikh, with such a
+message as this:--"I have eaten up the Kafers of Daura; here is your
+offering of two hundred Kafers." Should the Sheikh receive a
+remonstrance from the Bornou governor of Daura, that the Sarkee of
+Zinder has come upon him and carried off Muslims, his subjects, he will
+shut his ears. In all these razzias the lesser chiefs act an important
+part, and each gets a share. A chief who fights under the Sarkee
+captures fifty slaves, and gives up to the Sarkee twenty-five or thirty,
+keeping the rest for himself and people.
+
+If a single undistinguished man captures five, the Sarkee gets two of
+the five; another captures two, the Sarkee gets one, and the captor one.
+So all have a common interest in these nefarious razzias, and all start
+off with the utmost glee to capture their neighbours, their brethren,
+and to sell them into bondage. The Sarkee of Zinder will take with him
+about five thousand cavalry and thirty thousand foot (bowmen), drawn
+from these portions of the provinces against which the razzia is not now
+directed.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV.
+
+Family of the Sarkee--Converted Jew--Hard Dealings--How to get rid of a
+Wife--Route to Tesaoua--Influence of Slavery--Prices of Aloes and
+Silk--Medicine for a Merchant--Departure of the Sarkee for the
+Razzia--Encampment--Mode of Fighting--Produce of Razzias--Story of the
+Tibboo--Sheikh Lousou--Gumel--Superstitions--Matting--Visit
+of Ladies--The Jew--Incendiaries--Hazna--Legend of Zinder
+Well--Kohul--Cousin of the Sheikh--Female Sheikh--State of the
+Country--Salutations.
+
+
+_Jan. 24th._--The thermometer stood last night at 74� after dark. This
+morning it is, as usual, about 56�. The weather is still hazy; but the
+town is remarkably healthy, and there are very few cases of fever at the
+present time. Zinder, by the people, is said to be always cool.
+
+His highness the Sarkee of Zinder is a prince of true African and
+Asiatic calibre. He has three hundred wives, one hundred sons, and fifty
+daughters; but his women are not prisoners in a harem. His wives and
+daughters are seen about the streets walking alone, and the daughters
+are given in marriage to the grandees of the court. His wives, likewise,
+are often found with paramours outside the palace.
+
+I went to see a Jew who has been some time resident in Zinder. This Jew
+is one of those three who came to Mourzuk with Abd-el-Galeel, and after
+his death turned Muslims, and came up to Soudan and Bornou. He is called
+Ibrahim. The one now in Tesaoua, and who is going with Overweg to
+Maradee, is Mousa; and the other is called Isaac. The Moors put no faith
+in the conversion of these Jews: they say, "These men are always Jews in
+their hearts; they turned Muslims on speculation." It is certain that
+they got handsome presents at Mourzuk from the credulous believers. Of
+others, the Moors say they became Muslims to prevent the Tuaricks from
+killing them. I asked Ibrahim how he passed the Tuarick countries, and
+was informed that the Gh�tees treated him the worst. They swore he was
+not a Muslim, but still a Jew, and demanded one hundred dollars from him
+to pass. He got off with fifty; whilst to the Aheer people he paid about
+twenty dollars. A Christian or a Jew must never think he will be able to
+save his money, or, much less, his credit, by apostatising, for these
+Tuaricks will always swear his conversion is sham, however real it may
+be. He will always have to pay the same money, whether he keep his
+religion or sell it for the chance of saving his worthless gold and
+silver.
+
+All these Jews, however, seem to have thriven in their apostasy. Ibrahim
+of Zinder is worth about six or seven thousand dollars, and, besides
+being a working-jeweller, is a merchant. I tried to exchange some of my
+imitation rings for his silver ones, but it was useless. He had the
+conscience to demand thirty of my nicely-made rings for one of his
+trumpery, ill-made silver ones--silver with a very bad alloy. Then he
+wanted a pretty cotton-print handkerchief for a miserable silver bead.
+With such people it is impossible to strike a bargain. These Barbary
+Jews are the hardest and most tricky dealers in the world. Ibrahim has
+been laid up with a bad leg for five months, and intends going to Kuka
+when he gets better. He wanted me to sell him some mastic, but I
+refused. He said he wished to have one jolly day, but the fellow is
+almost a skeleton with his ulcerous leg.
+
+The Shereef Saghir is quite a character. He has been over the greater
+part of the world, and along the Indian coast--has seen the English in
+India, and the Christians in many ways and manners; and so is free from
+all sort of fanaticism. He wants now to return with me to England. He
+says--Soudan is _b�tal_ (worthless), and that if he take his wife, the
+daughter of the Sarkee of Zinder, with him to the north coast, he will
+sell her, and so finish his connexion with the negroes! I forgot to
+mention that Ibrahim has brought with him a Muslim wife from Mourzuk,
+and has now two or three black wives, and several children.
+
+From the courier who came from Dr. Overweg I have obtained the following
+account of the route from Zinder to Tesaoua:
+
+From Zinder direct west to Tus, 1 hour; village: to Termini, 5 hours;
+village: to Dambidda, 1 hour; a large village: to Babul, 5 hours;
+village: to Gumda, 4 hours; village: to Kurnaua, 4 hours; village: to
+Garagumsa, 5 hours; village: to Shabari, 7 hours; village: to Maizirgi,
+1 hour; large village: to Tesaoua, 5 hours.
+
+Along this route there is abundance of herbage and trees, but no running
+water or wadys. There are wells of great depth. The distances between
+the various villages being in all, when summed up, thirty-eight hours,
+we must consider the whole length of the route three long and four short
+days' journey, as the caravans generally arrive on the fourth day.
+
+Slavery is the curse of all these countries. My Soudan servant, Amankee,
+would not come with me to Zinder, on account of his longing desire to
+see his mother and brother and sisters; and yet, although these feelings
+are deep in the bosoms of all the blacks, they can see their neighbours
+torn away from their houses and carried off in irons with the greatest
+indifference. The slaves of the Sarkee of Zinder are double-ironed, like
+convicts, and in this condition jump through the streets, for they
+cannot walk. The backs of these poor slaves are all ulcerated with the
+strokes of the whip.
+
+I received a visit this morning from the Jew Ibrahim. After a good deal
+of wrangling I exchanged three handkerchiefs for three beads of silver,
+but one of the beads I made him a present of. I was much surprised to
+hear from him that the aloe wood, _aoud el-Komari_, sold in Bornou for
+its equal weight in silver. He also stated that twelve rubtas of raw
+silk sold for one real in Mourzuk and Zinder, whilst fifteen could be
+purchased in Kauou for the same money. What will become of the goods of
+the Germans?
+
+En-Noor's wife, Fatia, sent this morning for medicine to enable her to
+bring forth a child. I maliciously recommended to her a younger husband.
+A Tibboo has continued to pester me to death for a medicine to make him
+profit in his mercantile transactions. To get rid of him, being in a
+merry mood, I scribbled over a piece of paper, and he swallowed it. A
+great number of people come for medicines who are not sick. I generally
+content myself with a bare refusal, explaining that there is no
+necessity; but there is nothing so difficult as to convince a man that
+he is well when once he has persuaded himself of the contrary.
+
+The Sarkee went out this morning to his razzia and does not return for
+some days, so I shall not be able to take leave of his highness. The
+gossips persist in saying that he is dreadfully in want of money, and
+must go out to bring in some slaves to pay his debts. He was attended by
+about one thousand cavalry, and a good number of maharees. He is gone
+southwards. They report that he is indeed gone to Daura, but nothing is
+known positively as to whether he will capture the Sheikh's subjects or
+those of the Fellatahs. The Sarkee, on a former occasion, captured a
+great many people belonging to Germal, one of the Sheikh's provinces,
+and an order was forthwith sent to him to restore them to their homes
+and lands. He was compelled to comply. Besides slaves, the Sarkee will
+bring in bullocks and horses; but the sheep taken are eaten by the
+troops of the razzia. His highness is expected to gather an army of 2000
+horse, and 10,000 on foot, besides camels for provisions and water, when
+completed. The plan and route of the expedition are kept a profound
+secret, so that the army will fall upon the unsuspecting population by
+surprise.
+
+After about three or four hours' ride the Sarkee usually encamps, and a
+souk, or market, is opened at the camp for provisions. "There are no
+women with the _yaki_ (or army of razzia), the men cook and do all the
+work," says my informant. At night the Sultan calls round him his chosen
+troops, and distributes gour-nuts, and makes presents of provisions. He
+then sleeps a few hours, and probably starts at midnight, or as soon as
+the moon rises. A slave, a soldier of the Sarkee, who has been to a
+hundred razzias, tells me, that three years ago this Sarkee went to
+attack him of Daura in his capital. On arriving before the town the army
+of Zinder set fire to all the ghaseb stubble and the garden-trees around
+it. This done, they commenced a regular battle with the besieged. The
+fight continued till night, when the Sarkee of Daura fled. The Zinder
+people carried off a large booty: the share of the Sultan alone was nine
+hundred.
+
+This freebooting prince does not fight himself, but sits down at a
+distance from his troops and overlooks their conduct and manoeuvres; his
+generals command and lead on the attack, whilst a body-guard surrounds
+the sacred person of the monarch. On the occasion referred to, this
+body-guard was covered with mattrass-stuffing to shield off the terrible
+arrows of the Daura people. The greater part of the troops of Zinder
+have only a spear; a few have shields and swords, but none have muskets.
+All the Daura people have bows and arrows. There are numbers of petty
+traders here waiting for the booty of this razzia, and some of the
+creditors of the Sarkee went this morning to wish him God speed. I am
+glad I did not go out to see him start on such a nefarious expedition.
+It appears, however, that we are not to leave for Kuka until the return
+of the army. They intimate that a portion of the spoil will be sent with
+us to the great Sheikh of Bornou: so that after all, however unwilling,
+we shall seem to countenance this bloody work.
+
+_26th, Sunday._--We have still to remain here another week at least, so
+I must make what use I can of the time of this delay, caused by the
+nefarious razzia, now in course of operation. In the extravagant manner
+that this government of Zinder conducts its affairs, it can only support
+itself by periodical expeditions of this kind. There is one Fez merchant
+here, to whom the Sarkee owes four millions of wad�s, or about two
+thousand reals of Fezzan; and other creditors claim in a like
+proportion. Now, indeed, we begin to understand how the slave-markets of
+quasi-civilised countries are supplied by the surplus produce of these
+expeditions.
+
+The route from Aghadez to the country of Sidi Hashem, now governed by
+his son, is three days' journey, and from the country of Sidi Hashem to
+Wadnoun, three days: there is also a route of five days, a little more
+direct; and the route direct from Aghadez to Wadnoun is four days'
+journey.
+
+The story of the Tibboo is going the round of the town, and becoming the
+daily gossip. This story has now assumed a substantial historical shape.
+The facts are, as I have already intimated, that the Tibboo persecuted
+me to give him a medicine to enable him to trade with profit. I
+scribbled over a bit of paper, cut in the shape of a dollar, the number
+10,000 dollars, and told him to swallow it, and afterwards to bring it
+me in the same state. The price for this was a fowl. He swallowed the
+paper, and went off to get the fowl. Not succeeding in the souk, he went
+to the Shereef Kebir, and requested him to give him a fowl for a sick
+person. The Shereef gave him what he asked, and the Tibboo brought it to
+me. This story since has been greatly embellished at the expense of the
+Tibboo, and affords infinite amusement to the Moorish and Arabic
+merchants of Zinder.
+
+I have just noticed some sable ladies, with their hair all twisted into
+three or four great points--vain attempts at curls. The back parts are
+all covered with a paste of indigo. The hair is well dressed, and free
+from any woolly appearance.
+
+Yesterday the Sheikh Lousou paid me a visit. I presented him with a loaf
+of sugar, and a cotton handkerchief. He received them with manifest
+pleasure, and promised to write a letter to the Queen, that, in the
+event of other English people or Europeans passing through the Tuarick
+country of Aheer, he would render them all the protection in his power.
+Lousou is esteemed by some persons as great a man as En-Noor in Zinder,
+but this estimation is exceedingly out of place. Lousou could give
+protection to European travellers and merchants, but not in an equal
+degree to En-Noor. As he is a younger man than En-Noor, however, it is
+desirable to secure his friendship, and, if possible, that of the
+Sarkee. Lousou wore the bag of camphor which I gave him, showing it to
+me with great satisfaction.
+
+According to the information of a slave of the Sarkee, Gumel is a large
+Bornouese province, the capital of which is Tumbi: the Sultan's name is
+Dan-Tanoma. Gumel is one day and a-half from Zinder, but the capital is
+three days by horse and five days by camel travelling. Gumel has twelve
+great officers. Bundi is a large province of Bornou, the capital of
+which is Galadima: the Sultan's name is Kagami. Galadima is three days
+from Zinder. Aoud, a large place, is one day from Galadima. Alamaigo,
+also a large village or town, is half a day from Galadima. Meria, is
+three days from Galadima, and three from Zinder.
+
+According to strict Muslims, it is a sin to write Jebel Mekka, "the
+mountain of Mekka." I have lately noticed several instances of
+superstition. A Moor of Fezzan, to whom I gave a small portion of
+camphor, showed me the paper and piece of cotton cloth in which he had
+wrapped it up, and swore that during the night the ginns, or evil
+spirits, had eaten it. Many other Moors asked me if it was possible to
+preserve camphor from the ginns? They said they knew a man who one
+evening locked up a piece of this substance in an iron box, and in the
+morning it was gone; the ginns had eaten it.
+
+I went to see the manufacture of the matting which is used for making
+houses. There were thirty slaves at work, all belonging to one man; over
+these were three masters (also slaves), to keep them at their task. They
+certainly did not hurry themselves, and very few people hurry themselves
+in this country. These slaves were all Hazna, or pagans. The Sarkee of
+Zinder, besides Tuaricks, has many pagan subjects. Some of the blacks, I
+was surprised to see, had breasts as full and plump as many women. In
+other respects these pagans do not differ from their Muslim brethren.
+The matting is woven thirty or forty feet long, and eight feet broad,
+and is used to enclose a cluster of huts. It is all doubly-woven. I gave
+each of them a small looking-glass, having nothing else to dispose of.
+
+According to a Moor here, the land revenues of Zinder are divided into
+three portions; one of which goes to the Sarkee, one to the Sheikh, and
+one to the Bashaw. This is the new arrangement. The Sarkee makes up his
+accounts, or fills up his exchequer by razzias.
+
+_27th._--The weather continues mild, but thick. The thermometer now
+stands at about 60� at sunrise. The people are mostly healthy. We do not
+hear of cases of fever, or any other periodical complaints. As soon as
+up, I received a visit from a number of old ladies, who came to see the
+Christian, and to bring him a bowl of milk. One of them had been the
+nurse of the Sultan of Zinder; so that I was bound to feel duly honoured
+by this attention.
+
+Everybody now says the Sarkee will return in the course of five days,
+and besides slaves, will bring store of cattle and horses, the spoils of
+the poor people. I certainly never heard of a more iniquitous
+expedition, for it is believed he has gone against the pacific and loyal
+subjects of the Sheikh--not tribes or villages under another power.
+
+I went to visit the renegade Jew Ibrahim. I had prescribed a regimen for
+him, to assist in the cure of his bad foot, but yet he had done nothing.
+These kind of people are most eager to get prescriptions, but very lax
+in following them. Probably in secret they expect a magical cure, and
+have no confidence in any specific less expeditious than the waving of a
+wand. I repeated everything again to him, without expecting compliance.
+It is, however, cheap to express condolence in this manner.
+
+The streets are almost deserted; only a few beggars and poor people show
+themselves about. There was a fire last night in the market-place, said
+to be the work of an incendiary. The thieves here set fire to the huts,
+and profit in the confusion by carrying off the goods and chattels of
+the alarmed; as, indeed, they do in London and other cities of Europe.
+The devices of roguery are marvellously monotonous.
+
+In the forenoon I received a visit from the Iman of the mosque of
+Zinder. I asked about the Hazna, or pagans, thinking to get a little
+information; but I only learnt what I knew before, that the Hazna make
+their offerings, which consist, of milk and ghaseb, under trees. These
+Hazna are mostly peasants--little farmers; and, like Cain, they offer to
+their deity the fruits of the earth. The Iman said their deity was
+Eblis, or the Devil; an accusation commonly bandied between rival
+creeds. He informed me, also, that there are a good number of Hazna in
+both Zinder and the other towns and villages of the province. He
+despaired of their ever becoming Muslims, but added, "The great men
+amongst them must become Muslims by order of the Sheikh, whilst the poor
+people are left to do as they please, and so furnish a constant supply
+for the home and foreign slave-mart. It is not the interest of the
+Sarkee or the foreign merchants that they should become Muslims."
+
+I have heard of the names of two other Tuarick tribes, viz. the
+Ezzaggeran, near Gouber, and the Daggera, near Minyo, belonging to the
+Tuarick country of Gurasu. These, apparently, are fractions of tribes.
+
+I register the following legend, which seems to imply that Zinder, like
+many of the towns of this part of Africa, is of comparatively modern
+origin.
+
+Twenty years ago there was a fine spring of water bubbling from under
+the largest granite rock of Zinder. It was this spring which first
+attracted a population to settle here. Suleiman, father of the present
+Sarkee, one day harangued the people, and told them, "This water is not
+necessary for us; the Sheikh of Bornou will hear of this prey, and come
+and take our country from us. Now let us fetch a fighi, who shall write
+a talisman; and we will put this talisman upon the mouth of the spring,
+and with it a large stone, and the water of the spring shall immediately
+dry." The people consented to this; the charm was written and thrown
+into the spring, and the stone was rolled on to its mouth; since which
+the spring has in reality ceased to flow.
+
+The population of Zinder is now supplied with water from three wells,
+about half an hour distant from the spring, now dry. Upon the stone over
+this dried spring are several marks, like the footprints of camels and
+horses. Other people add, "the marks of a man when he kneels down to
+pray."
+
+The Shereef Kebir says, that Lousou brought a piece of magnetic iron to
+him, which he sent to Haj Beghir in Kuka. Lousou reports that there is
+an abundance of magnetic iron in Aheer. Kohul is very cheap in the
+market of Zinder. In Kanou it can be had for ten reals (Fezzan) the
+cantar; and in Yakoba, whence it is brought, for three reals. There is a
+whole rock of kohul in Yakoba, the property of the Sultan. The Fellatahs
+rule Yakoba as well as Adamowa. They are still very powerful in all this
+part of Africa. Individual Fellatahs have as many as five thousand
+slaves, who work partly for their masters and partly for themselves.
+
+I visited this evening Sidi Bou Beker Weled Haj Mohammed Sudani, cousin
+of the Sheikh of Bornou. He was surrounded with all the objects of
+Bornou luxury,--carpets, guns, pistols, swords, umbrellas, &c. &c. He
+was busy looking over a book containing an explanation of dreams, with a
+vastly-knowing m�lem. They both made pretensions to great learning. In
+other respects, the cousin of the Sheikh was very affable. He said,
+Bornou is the only good country hereabouts. All the rest are full of
+fever or bandits. "There were two English," he observed, "came to us (in
+Bornou), and were very well until they went to Soudan, where they died."
+These persons were Oudney and Clapperton. I told him I must return by
+way of Wada�, which he disapproved of. I added, that Abbas Pasha would
+write to Darfour and Wada�, to give me protection. He then said, "Oh, if
+the Sheikh writes to Wada�, you can go in safety."
+
+This cousin of the Sheikh is a great merchant, and comes backwards and
+forwards to Zinder from Kuka.
+
+_28th._--The nights are still rather cool, but the days not so. The
+weather continues heavy, with a south-east wind. I went to the cousin of
+the Sheikh to administer to him a dose of Epsom salts. I have often been
+surprised to see how greedily these people drink off this nauseous
+medicine, and smack their lips as if it was something excessively
+delicious.
+
+Afterwards I had a visit from a great sister of the Sarkee, a woman who
+is a Sheikha (female Sheikh), and receives the revenues of fifty
+villages for her own private use. She was quite well, but begged hard
+for medicine. At last I gave her some tea, which she drank off, after
+laughing a good deal.
+
+A small caravan has arrived from Ghadamez in three months, but brought
+no news, except that Aaron Silva is living, and not dead, as reported.
+These merchants make continual inquiries respecting the state of the
+country (i.e. of Soudan), and are answered, "_Afia, afia._" However, it
+is these same slave-dealing merchants who occasion the greater part of
+the wars and troubles in these countries, by their perpetual demand for
+slaves.
+
+I am told that many cantars of indigo can be purchased in Soudan (in
+Kanou), at a price which would bring a great profit in Tripoli; but the
+merchants refuse to engage in this commerce. I think I shall make a
+trial of it.
+
+The cousin of the Sheikh recommended me to dress in my English clothes
+on my arrival in Kuka. By doing this, he observed, "you will please the
+people, and get many presents." It was ever my intention to dress in
+European clothes in Bornou.
+
+The common mode in which a poor person salutes a great man, is by
+kneeling down and throwing dust upon the bare head. The degree of
+humility and respect is expressed by the quantity of dust thrown! The
+Sarkee, of course, gets a great deal of dust, and every personage under
+him his portion, according to his rank. The beggars throw the dust about
+in clouds. At first, it is painful to see this custom.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XV.
+
+Political News--Animals of Zinder--Sleepy City--District
+of Korgum--Razzias--Family of Sheikh Omer of
+Bornou--Brothers--Sons--Sisters--Daughters--Viziers--Kashallas--Power of
+the Sheikh--A Cheating Prince--Old Slave--Fetishism--Devil in a
+Tuarick's head--Kibabs--Fires--A Prophecy--Another Version of the
+Razzia--Correspondence between Korgum and Zinder.
+
+
+Some political news has arrived to-day by the caravan from Gh�t.
+According to the gazette of the caravan there is peace now between the
+Porte and Musku (Russia), and Musku is to restore to the Porte the one
+hundred countries taken by her, as also to pay the expenses of the war.
+Hostilities have broken out between the Emperor of Morocco and the
+French; a Shereef has appeared to recommence the holy war, and Muley
+Abd-Errhaman supplies him with the means to fight the French. Thus the
+news is all fashioned to Muslim tastes. Also it is said, that in future
+the red colour in flags is always to be uppermost. This seems likewise a
+compliment to the Muslim power in Europe and Africa. It is very curious
+to see how dexterously the caravan-newsman has coined his wares.
+
+The shonshona of Gouber is very faint, and consists of nine very small
+cuts.
+
+Gouber is full of Tuaricks, Kilgris, and Iteesan. It is said the Sarkee
+will bring an immense number of Hazna, or pagans, with him, on his
+return from the razzia.
+
+_29th._--At sunrise, when the thermometer is at 57�, I feel the cold. I
+am told that, though Kuka is very hot, it is quite free from fever,--in
+fact, from all periodic epidemics. So we may expect to do well, if we
+escape the fever of Soudan.
+
+The household gods of Zinder are a large species of lizard, who make
+their dwelling-places in the walls and roofs of the huts. These are in
+great numbers. Cats are the principal nuisance and the thieves of the
+place--attacking and devouring fowls. Of rats and mice I have observed
+none. But few small birds show themselves. The small filthy vulture is
+everywhere, and a few eagles of a diminutive white species are seen
+amongst them. Some few dogs are kept, ill-looking and mongrel in their
+breed. The domestic cattle are horses, asses, oxen, sheep and goats, and
+a few camels.
+
+The life of the male population of Zinder seems to pass in dreamy
+indolence, varied continually by the excitement of a razzia. The women
+divide their time between the kitchen and the toilette. No amusement is
+sought, except from drum-beating and the attendant dance. Thus time
+lapses with these black citizens. As for the foreign merchants and
+traders, they, too, drowse away the period of their residence in this
+sleepy city. They sell their goods in a lump, on trust, to the Sarkee,
+and then compose themselves to slumber whilst he goes forth on a razzia,
+and brings them slaves in payment. The thick, heavy atmosphere--at any
+rate during this season--appears to forbid any other kind of life. It
+weighs upon the eyelids, and oppresses the soul. Existence passes away
+in a tropical dream, and death finds its prey, as Jupiter found Maia,
+"betwixt sleep and wake," in this poppied climate. Altogether--as far as
+I can see through my own winking eyes--Zinder is a most unlovely place;
+by no means desirable for a stranger to live in. I manage, however, now
+and then to grasp at, and hold, something like definite information. In
+looking over the itineraries of Captain Lyon, I find that the razzias
+have obliterated many towns and villages from the map. At any rate, the
+people now are ignorant of their names.
+
+Korgum, half-a-day's distance from Konchai, two days from Zinder, is,
+according to a report come in this afternoon, the place or theatre of
+the present razzia. The pretext is--for I now hear of a pretext--that
+they will not pay tribute to the Sheikh. Korgum consists of three
+villages and a town, upon and under some rocky hills, which are visible
+during three days' march. The district is the residence of a sultan. Ten
+years ago it belonged to Maradee, but since then has been wrested from
+it, though it has ever shown a doubtful allegiance. When the former
+chief fled to Maradee, he stopped to drink water at Korgum; but the
+sultan refused to grant him permission. The present Sarkee, on being
+restored to his government,--though he made war upon his
+brother--nevertheless determined to avenge this barbarous inhospitality.
+He went and attacked the Sultan of Korgum, captured several of his
+people, and cut off, it is pretended, eight hundred heads. Not satisfied
+with this slight vengeance, the chief of Zinder seems to have remained
+anxious to pick a quarrel. He next sent for wad�; in other words, for
+tribute. The Sultan of Korgum forwarded some. The Sarkee despatched a
+message, that what he had received was "few." The Sultan replied, "Why
+should I send many?" A pertinent question, that seems to have closed the
+correspondence, but not brought the affair to a conclusion.
+
+The Sarkee of Zinder heard that the Sultan of Korgum had just gone out
+on a razzia, united with the people of Maradee, and has taken this
+opportunity to make a foray. It is probably with reference to some
+rumour of this expedition that Overweg writes to me.
+
+It is said here that the Sarkee never captures all the people, but
+leaves a few to breed for another razzia! All the inhabitants of Korgum
+are Hazna, a fact strongly insisted on as a salve for the consciences of
+my Muslim friends. The Sarkee is expected back on Friday.
+
+I received a visit from the two Shereefs that were at Mourzuk in our
+time. They left after us; had remained three months in Gh�t, and, of
+course, detest the Tuaricks. I gave them coffee, and each a cotton
+handkerchief.
+
+_30th._--The following are given me as the names of the family of the
+Sheikh Omer, of Bornou:--
+
+
+_Brothers._
+
+Abd-Er-Rahman is the eldest brother after the Sheikh, and generalissimo
+of the army; the province of Minyo belongs to him.
+
+Yusuf, a very learned man, a great fighi.
+
+Othman, also a fighi. His mother is a native of Mandara.
+
+Bou Beker, also a fighi; to him belongs Limbaua and many estates.
+
+Mahmoud, also a fighi; to him belongs Kalulwa and many estates.
+
+Abdullah Manufi; to him belongs Gubobaua, consisting of 220 countries or
+villages.
+
+(Gubobaua is one day west of Kuka.)
+
+Bashir: fighi; resides with his brother Abd-Er-Rahman, and has a small
+village.
+
+Hamed Rufai; by the same mother as Abdullah Manufi.
+
+Mustapha; a great man, having much influence in the country: he has many
+estates.
+
+Ibrahim; fighi, and has estates.
+
+Anos.
+
+Khalil.
+
+Ahmed.
+
+Hamed Zaruf, a young brother.
+
+Hamed Bedawi, a young brother.
+
+Abd-el-Kader, a young brother.
+
+Abd-el-Majed, a young brother.
+
+Mohammed el-Kanemi; young.
+
+All these my informant knows. What a family! Verily we are in Africa!
+
+
+_Sons._
+
+Bou Beker, aged about fifteen years.
+
+Ibraim.
+
+Hashemi.
+
+Kasem.
+
+Tahir.
+
+Taib.
+
+Rufai.
+
+Abdallah.
+
+Mohammed Lamin (name of his grandfather).
+
+Kanami.
+
+The mother of the Sheikh is called Magera, a native of Begarmi.
+
+
+_Sisters of the Sheikh._
+
+Nafisa; to her belongs the country of Kumalewa (same mother as
+Abd-Er-Rahman).
+
+Maimuna; to her belongs the place of Wameri (same mother as above).
+
+Aisha; to her belongs Koba.
+
+Maream.
+
+Fatema.
+
+Mabruka.
+
+Hamsa.
+
+Alia; to her belongs Hamisah, a village.
+
+Halima.
+
+Zainubo; to her belongs Furferrai.
+
+Mussaud.
+
+Fadula.
+
+Rabia.
+
+Sinnana.
+
+Mubarka.
+
+Rihana.
+
+These are all he recollects among the number. A copious royal family!
+
+
+_Daughters of the Sheikh._
+
+Rukaia (married), about twenty years of age; to her belongs Balungu.
+
+Fatima, a young girl.
+
+No doubt there are others. It is curious to compare this knot of near
+relations with the scanty families among the Tuaricks. The fertility of
+the human race seems to be as that of the soil on which its several
+tribes are located. Deserts may produce conquerors, but the fat lands
+produce subjects.
+
+I may now add a further list, obtained at the same time as the above.
+
+The great vizier (or prime minister) is Haj Beshir; but there are other
+viziers of more or less power:--Shadeli; Ibrahim Wadai; Rufai (cousin of
+the Sheikh); Hamza, and Mala Ibrahim. These form the council of the
+Sheikh.
+
+The chief kady is Kady Mohammed, and another kady of influence is named
+Haj Mohammed Aba.
+
+The principal slaves (that is to say, the principal favourites in these
+despotic countries) are Kashalla Belal and Kashalla Ali. The word
+Kashalla corresponds to the title Bey. The brother of Abd-el-Galeel,
+lately killed, is living at Kuka, and is called Sheikh Ghait. There is
+also there a brother of the ancient sheikh killed in Fezzan, called
+Sheikh Omer, uncle of the above.
+
+According to my informant, the power of the Sheikh has immensely
+increased since the days of the first expedition. The Sheikh has now
+more than 100,000 cavalry, and a great quantity of muskets. Certainly I
+have ocular proof that Zinder, an important province, has been added to
+the territories of this most powerful prince. I may as well mention,
+that my authority is Omer Wardi. His father, Mohammed Wardi, went with
+Clapperton to Sakkatou.
+
+The Sheikh, according to this seemingly well-informed person, is
+paramount sovereign of Begarmi and Mandara,--these states paying each a
+tribute yearly of one thousand slaves, to which Mandara adds fifty
+eunuchs,--a most costly contribution. This seems to be the country where
+eunuchs are made in these parts.
+
+Lagun is also under the Sheikh, and has become a province of Bornou.
+
+In this country, it is said, there are pieces of cannon. Also, there is
+another country, Kussuri, four days south of Begarmi, now united to the
+Sheikh's territories; and besides, Maffatai, four days south-east from
+Kuka (a country of a sultan).
+
+Dikua, two days south from Kuka; a province with a powerful sultan, who
+has the power of life and death.
+
+Kulli, one day west of Dikua; Blad-es-Sultan.
+
+En-Gala, two days south of Kuka, country of a sultan; belonging to
+Yusuf, brother of the Sheikh.
+
+I went to see the renegade Jew; he was busy in a quarrel with a servant
+of Lousou, to whom he had given eight slaves to take to Gh�t, to be sold
+on his account. Lousou had sold the slaves, and rendered no account to
+the renegade--a most unprincely proceeding, to say the least of it; if,
+indeed, it would not be more African to say princely proceeding: for
+there seems no vice, whether violent or mean, which is not exaggerated
+by the holders of power in these parts.
+
+The souk is almost deserted to-day, on account of the Sarkee being
+absent. I passed the slave-stalls, and saw another poor old woman for
+sale, upwards of fourscore years of age. The slave-merchants offered her
+for four thousand wad�s, about eight shillings. People purchase these
+poor old creatures that they may fetch wood and water, even until their
+strength fails them and they faint by the way.
+
+I made other inquiries about the Hazna of Zinder. It seems the Sarkee
+himself is still half pagan, for at the beginning of every year he
+proceeds with his officers to a tree, the ancient god of paganism, and
+there distributes two goffas of wad� (about 100,000), three bullocks and
+sheep, and ghaseb, to the poor. These things are really offered to the
+deities of his ancestors, though the poor of the country get the benefit
+of them. There are four or five trees of this description, at which such
+annual offerings are made; but there is only one Tree of Death where
+malefactors are executed, the one mentioned in a former page.[17] The
+Muslim converts of Soudan find the Ramadhan excessively burdensome, as
+well as many other rites of Islamism, and for this reason the greater
+part of the population of Soudan, who profess Mohammedanism, are still
+pagans in heart. It is vain to expect a nation to pass from loose to
+ascetic practices without some moral motive, such as that which
+sustained the Muslims at their first brilliant start in the world.
+
+ [17] See pp. 211 and 218. Probably the second Tree of Death
+      described was in reality only a fetish tree.--ED.
+
+A Tuarick came this morning and said the devil was in his head, and that
+he wanted some medicine to drive him out. I gave him an emetic of
+tartarised antimony, which I hope served his purpose.
+
+N.B. The news of the Sarkee having "eaten up" four countries of Korgum
+is confirmed to-day.
+
+The preparation of kibabs is quite a science here. The kibab cook makes
+a conical hillock of dust and ashes, flattened on the top. The edge of
+this mound he plants with sticks, on which is skewered a number of
+little bits of meat: then a fire is kindled between this circular
+forest, and the sticks are twisted round from time to time, so that
+every part may be well roasted. To us these kibabs are cheap enough,
+five or six cowries a stick.
+
+The wall of Zinder has no gates, only openings. I went to the garden of
+the Shereef. The vegetation does not look very flourishing in this
+season. The Shereef has planted some horse-beans; "the only beans of the
+kind," says the gardener, "in all the territories of Bornou."
+
+_31st._--The weather is increasingly cool; therm. at sunrise, 50�. The
+atmosphere of Zinder never clears up. I was awakened this morning,
+before daylight, by the cries of "Fire!" A fire of huts was raging close
+upon us. This is the third accident of this kind which has taken place
+during the sixteen days we have been here. The people take them, as a
+matter of course, with Californian indifference, and it is likely that
+there are two or three fires every ten days.
+
+A merchant from Kanou (native of Tunis) called to see me. He says the
+English (Americans) now bring calicoes, powder, dollars, rum, wad�s,
+guns, and many other things, to Niffee, which afterwards are sent up to
+Kanou. The slave-trade, therefore, must thrive here; and we get the
+credit of it, because the ruffians by whom it is carried on speak our
+language.
+
+A great fighi called also to-day to explain any dreams which I might
+require the interpretation of, bringing with him his Tifsir El-Helam. I
+told him that last night I dreamt I saw "two persons fall to the ground
+upon (from?) the boughs of a tree." He searched his book and produced a
+passage, the pith of which was, that anything which I undertake will not
+be accomplished. Very agreeable information! I thought we had had bad
+news enough. The passage made to apply prophetically to me ran literally
+as follows:--
+
+"And whosoever sees (in dreams) a tree fall, or any thing fall from
+it,--then will not accomplish itself the thing which is between the man
+who thus dreams."[18]
+
+ [18] The unhappy event which soon after this interview occurred,
+      no doubt confirmed the belief of the natives in the powers
+      of this great fighi.--ED.
+
+I hired to-day Mohammed Ben Amud Bou Saad, at a salary of ten reals of
+Fezzan a month.
+
+I have heard another version of the plan and cause of the present razzia
+of the Sultan of Zinder. "Our own correspondents" cannot be more
+versatile in finding out rumours than the gossips of Zinder. It is now
+said that the Sultan of Korgum wrote to the Sarkee of Zinder, and asked
+him if he should make a razzia on or with Maradee.
+
+The Sarkee said, "Go." But as soon as the news came that the sultan was
+gone, this prince, in whom that other put his trust, immediately set out
+to make a razzia on the country deserted by its sultan.
+
+"_Compos!_" cried my Moorish informant; and certainly it was a clever
+negro trick. It is difficult to know whom to pity or condemn in this
+iniquitous affair. We may be certain, however, that the poor women and
+children, the principal sufferers by the razzias, are guiltless in these
+transactions; and we may, without fear, bestow our sympathies upon them.
+At the same time it is allowable to admire the profound secrecy with
+which the Sarkee planned his razzia. Not a soul in Zinder, besides
+himself, knew where he was going. The general opinion was to Daura,
+which affords scope for a thousand razzias.
+
+The correspondence which I have mentioned between the vassals of Korgum
+and Zinder illustrates the abominable system on which the Sheikh of
+Bornou permits his provinces to be governed. Really it is difficult to
+compare the condition of this extraordinary region to anything but a
+forest, through which lions and tigers range to devour the weaker and
+more timid beasts--to which they grant intervals of repose during the
+digestion of their meals.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVI.
+
+Sheikh of Bornou--Arab Women--News from the Razzia--Procession of
+newly-caught Slaves--Entrance of the Sarkee--Chained Slaves--My Servant
+at the Razzia--Audacity of Bornou Slaves--Korgum--Konchai--Product of
+the Razzia--Ghadamsee Merchants--Slave-trade--Incident at Korgum--State
+of Kanou--A Hue and Cry--Black Character--Vegetables at
+Zinder--Minstrel--Medi--Gardens--Ladies--Fanaticism--Americans at
+Niffee--Rich People--Tuaricks Sick--Morals--Dread of the
+Sarkee--Fashions.
+
+
+_Feb. 1st._--It is said that we shall leave this for Kuka on Monday
+next, whether the Sultan of Zinder returns from his razzia or not. It
+certainly is a shame that I should be kept here waiting the pleasure of
+a fellow gone to heat up for slaves to pay his debts.
+
+The merchants from Kanou represent the power of the Fellatahs as very
+strong, if not increasing. From Sakkatou to Kanou, and Kanou to Niffee,
+Yakoba, and Adamaua, everywhere along these lines of towns and populous
+districts, are found Fellatah chiefs or sultans. Bornou is, however, now
+much stronger than during the time of the first expedition. The Sheikh
+has two thousand muskets; so says the Shereef Kebir; whilst in the time
+of Denham he had only fifty. Certainly two thousand muskets is a
+progress beyond fifty. The Asbenouee Tuaricks carried away some
+half-dozen Arab women when they slaughtered the Walad Suleiman. One of
+these women has been seen, and the Sheikh and the Shereef Kebir are
+trying to get her back. The Sheikh has sent word that all the Arab women
+must be restored to their homes.
+
+The Shereef Kebir says the powder of this country is all bad, but that
+Haj Beshir and the Sheikh get English or American powder from Niffee.
+Leaden bullets are scarce; they use zinc bullets: but these will not go
+far, resisting the force of the powder; nor will they penetrate deep
+when they hit a person. Nitre is found at a place one hour from Zinder,
+called Kankandi.
+
+It is supposed that the Sarkee, not having found slaves enough in
+Korgum, has gone somewhere else. The Shereef Kebir would scarcely
+mention the subject of the razzia to me for shame. At length a Moor
+present said, "Fish eats up fish, so it is with the Sarkee." This
+brought forth a laugh, and seemed to be thought a sufficient salve for
+all their consciences.
+
+A cry was raised early this morning, "The Sarkee is coming!" Every one
+went out eagerly to learn the truth. It turned out that a string of
+captives, fruits of the razzia,[19] was coming in. There cannot be in
+the world--there cannot be in the whole world--a more appalling
+spectacle than this. My head swam as I gazed. A single horseman rode
+first, showing the way, and the wretched captives followed him as if
+they had been used to this condition all their lives. Here were naked
+little boys running alone, perhaps thinking themselves upon a holiday;
+near at hand dragged mothers with babes at their breasts; girls of
+various ages, some almost ripened into womanhood, others still infantine
+in form and appearance; old men bent two-double with age, their
+trembling chins verging towards the ground, their poor old heads covered
+with white wool; aged women tottering along, leaning upon long staffs,
+mere living skeletons;--such was the miscellaneous crowd that came
+first; and then followed the stout young men, ironed neck to neck! This
+was the first instalment of the black bullion of Central Africa; and as
+the wretched procession huddled through the gateways into the town the
+creditors of the Sarkee looked gloatingly on through their lazy eyes,
+and calculated on speedy payment.
+
+ [19] Mr. Richardson interchanges the words _razzia_ and _gazia_;
+      the latter, I imagine, is the correct word, but the former
+      is better known to European readers.--ED.
+
+In the afternoon I was informed that the Sarkee was really about to
+enter the town.
+
+Expecting to see other captives, and anxious to be an eye-witness to all
+these atrocities attendant on the razzia, I went to see him pass with
+his cavalry. After waiting ten minutes, there rode up single cavaliers,
+then lines of horsemen, all galloping towards the castle-gates to show
+the people their equestrian skill; then came a mass of cavalry, about
+fifty, with a drum beating, and in the midst of these was the sultan.
+There was nothing very striking in this cavalcade; a few cavaliers had
+on a curious sort of helmet, made of brass, with a kind of horn standing
+out from the crown; others wore a wadding of woollen stuff, a sort of
+thin mattrass, in imitation of a coat of mail. Its object is to turn the
+points of the poisoned arrows. The cavaliers thus dressed form the
+body-guard of the Sarkee. Amongst these troops were some Bornou
+horsemen, who rode with more skill than the Zinder people. The best
+cavaliers resembled as much as possible the Arab cavaliers of the north.
+There were no captives with these horsemen; the slaves had only come in
+to the number, it was said, of some two or three thousand during the
+day. Although I wished to see them, I was, nevertheless, spared a
+repetition of the misery and indignation which the sight in the morning
+produced in my mind. I have been told positively that the poor old
+creatures brought in with the other captives will not fetch a shilling
+a-head in the slave-market. It is, therefore, a refinement of cruelty
+not to let them die in their native homes,--to tear them away to a
+foreign soil, and subject them to the fatigues of the journey, and the
+insults of a rude populace, and ruder and crueller slave-dealers. Many
+die on the road during the two or three days' march.
+
+It is exceedingly painful to live in a place like Zinder, where almost
+every householder has a chained slave. The poor fellows (men and boys)
+cannot walk, from the manner in which the irons are put on, and when
+they move about are obliged to do so in little jumps. These slaves are
+ironed, that they may not run away. There are many villages and towns, a
+few days from Zinder, to which they can escape without difficulty, and
+where they are not pursued. It was exceedingly horrifying to hear the
+people of Zinder salute the troops of the razzia on their return with
+the beautiful Arabic word, _Alberka_, "blessing!" Thus is it that human
+beings sometimes ask God for a blessing on transactions which must ever
+be stamped with his curse. The Italian bandit also begs the Virgin to
+bless his endeavours. It is evident that nothing but the strong arm of
+power and conquest will ever root out the curse of slavery from Africa.
+
+The slave whom Haj Beshir sent from Kuka to Zinder, to accompany me to
+Kuka, went with the Sarkee, and took one of my servants with him. I did
+not know anything about it until they were gone. But this evening, on my
+return from seeing the Sarkee, I found a woman and child, a boy and a
+young man, tied together, lying not far from my hut, in the enclosure
+where we are residing. I was excessively indignant at this conduct of
+Haj Beshir's slave, although certainly done in ignorance. These captives
+were the fruits of the part he took in the expedition. I have not made
+up my mind whether I will go to Kuka with this fellow, for it is not the
+first time he has shown something like an insolent behaviour. As to my
+servant, I had already discharged him, but the Shereef Kebir persuaded
+me to let him go with the boat to Kuka, as he knew how to place it on
+the camels better than the other servants. I scolded him well for going
+with the razzia, because he himself was once in bondage, and had
+returned free under our protection. But I fear my words will have little
+effect; for in Zinder, at least, the great concern and occupation of the
+black population is, to go and steal their neighbours, and sell them
+into slavery. I repeat again, nothing but foreign conquest by a
+non-slaveholding power will extirpate slavery from the soil of Africa.
+
+I read Milton's "Comus" and other portions of his poetry, and find it a
+great relief in drawing my mind a little off African subjects. I am
+sorry I did not bring with me a copy of Shakespear. I have very few
+books with me of any kind, and fewer maps. I received a visit of fighis
+from the villages around, also from a sister and niece of the Sultan of
+Zinder, and gave them all a bit of sugar and sent them off.
+
+Around my house exists a swarm of fighis, who can copy charms and a few
+passages from the Koran. I procured some of the _bon� fide_ specimens of
+their calligraphy. There are four different hands. These fighis are all
+blacks of pure blood. They write sideways.
+
+A courier arrived to-day from Kuka, bringing a despatch for the Governor
+of Zinder, to the effect that, in the event of his finding any people of
+Bornou committing misdemeanours of any sort, he, the Sultan of Zinder,
+was at liberty to treat them as he chose. I am told that the Bornou
+slaves, as well as the free people of that country, when they come to
+Zinder, have the audacity to seize on whomsoever comes in the way, and
+take them and sell them as slaves in the souk. This kidnapping is mostly
+done in the villages around Zinder, but even in the city itself it has
+been ventured; and the Sultan has hitherto been afraid to arrest these
+Bornouese miscreants. What a glimpse into the state of the empire of
+Bornou do such facts afford!
+
+_2d._--This morning the slave of Haj Beshir came to declare that the
+slaves which he brought here yesterday were not his booty, but belonged
+to another person, a volunteer. There is no getting at the truth in
+these countries. The theatre of the late razzia is westwards from Zinder
+about two days. Korgum is one day from Tesaoua. Konchai is a
+neighbouring country, about four hours from Korgum. The Sarkee attacked
+four villages of Korgum, but got few slaves. The people, though without
+their sultan, defended themselves well with their renowned arrows, and
+when they could hold out no longer they ascended the rocks and escaped.
+The wounds of arrows, though poisoned, are not always fatal, and often
+cured by the remedies known in these countries.
+
+The villages of Korgum are called Tangadala Agai. Not getting many
+slaves there, the Sarkee attacked two or three villages of Konchai. This
+province contains some three hundred villages. Ganua and Tanbanas were
+the places razzied. From the latter place six hundred slaves were
+obtained, nearly half of the whole captured. The total product of the
+razzia is about fifteen hundred; a thousand for the Sultan's share, and
+five hundred for the troops and volunteers. It is said this thousand
+will not suffice to pay the Sultan's debts, and it was on account of the
+fewness of slaves the Sarkee was obliged to bring with him the halt, the
+blind, the maimed, and the aged, stooping to the earth with age. Besides
+human beings, the Sarkee captured eight hundred and thirty bullocks, and
+flocks of sheep; seven hundred bullocks he gave to the troops and
+volunteers, and one hundred and thirty have been reserved for himself.
+Four men were killed, and one hundred horses, belonging to Zinder; but
+the enemy are said to have lost a good number. All the villages made
+resistance but one, where the poor people were busy cooking their
+suppers; when the Sarkee and his famished crew rushed upon them, seized
+them, and carried them into captivity. This, at any rate, is the report;
+but, according to others, the results of the expedition are much less
+important.
+
+All the country razzied is nominally subject to the Sheikh of Bornou, so
+that this Sarkee of Zinder has been pillaging the Bornou territories,
+and carrying off their inhabitants, who are subjects of the Sheikh, to
+raise money to pay his debts. A certain enmity exists, it is said,
+between Konchai and Zinder, which formerly was subject to the province
+of Konchai.
+
+According to one authority, the booty of the razzia is greatly reduced,
+even to more than half of what was reported. The share of the Sarkee is
+four hundred slaves, and one hundred and twenty slaves he gave to his
+troops. Seven places were attacked, but the people had news of the
+movements of the Sarkee, and were prepared to receive him: they shot
+their arrows through their stockades, thick and fast, upon the Sarkee
+and his people, and then retired to the rocks and behind the trees,
+which are abundant. Only one country was fairly razzied. Also but few
+beasts were taken, the people having secured all their cattle and flocks
+beforehand. The Sarkee got about one hundred bullocks. He took with him
+no less than two thousand horse, a collection from all the petty
+governments in the surrounding provinces, with their chiefs. All these
+forces did little more than beat the air. The capture of five hundred
+slaves will not pay the expenses of the expedition, but these people
+never sit down to count the cost. Their reckoning-days are few and far
+between.
+
+There is a report here that the Sultans of Maradee, Gouber, Korgum, and
+Tesaoua, have all gone together on a razzia to the territory of
+Sakkatou, and a few of the people of Zinder have gone with them; and
+this is the reason given for horses being now scarce in Zinder.
+
+Haj Beshir has sent a message from Kuka, that I am to quicken my steps
+thitherward. The kafila from Mourzuk has arrived, and many Arabs from
+the north.
+
+Of gubaga, called by the people of Zinder, ferri, four dra�s are sold in
+Zinder for one hundred wad�s, about twopence. This native cotton cloth,
+when doubled, makes tents impervious to the summer rain.
+
+There are about fifty Ghadamsee merchants in Kanou and Boushi, capital
+of Yakoba, the principal of whom (here described as Maidukia) are:--
+
+Haj Mohammed Bel Kasem.
+Haj Tahir.
+Mairimi.
+Haj Mohammed Ben Habsa.
+Hemed Basidi.
+Kasem Ben Haiba.
+Haj Ali.
+Mohammed Makoren.
+Haj Hoda.
+Haj Abdullah.
+
+There are some merchants of consequence from Fezzan, viz. Basha Ben
+Haloum, Mohammed es-Salah, the agent of Gagliuffi, Sidi Ali, and Fighi
+Hamit, who always goes to Goujah (_blad_ of the gour-nuts). This country
+of the gour is distant three months' travelling, making small stages
+south-west by west. Morocco, Tuat, and the countries of the west, are
+scarcely represented by merchants in Kanou--there being one or two of
+them at most. Nor are there any from Egypt or the East.
+
+According to my informant, a small merchant, but well acquainted with
+these parts, not more than one hundred and fifty or two hundred slaves
+pass through or from Zinder annually to the north, and about five or six
+hundred go by the route of Tesaoua to the north, i.e. Tripoli, and a few
+to Souf. After all, the great slave-market is Central Africa itself.
+
+An affecting incident is told of the people of Korgum during the late
+razzia. The Sultan of Zinder besieged one town four days, and would not
+allow the people to drink water. They then sent word that "they did not
+know either God, or the Prophet Mahommed, or the Sheikh of Bornou, only
+him, Sarkee Ibrahim of Zinder, as their ruler and lord, and prayed him
+to give them water and peace." The Sarkee replied, "When my brother fled
+to you, you also would not allow him to drink, nor will I now permit
+you; therefore surrender into our hands." The people of the town held
+out these four days, and then during a night they all fled to the rocks
+and escaped.
+
+There are but few places to make razzias upon around Zinder, except on
+the Sheikh's provinces, unless the Sarkee will go to Maradee, and there
+he is now in friendship, or else is afraid to move in that direction. In
+the account of the booty, it is to be understood that all of it was not
+brought to Zinder, some having been distributed amongst the troops and
+volunteers of the rest of the province. I am told that the greater part
+of the slaves will be sent to Kanou for sale. It has already been
+observed, that only a few slaves go to the north in comparison with the
+numbers captured. The bulk of the slaves of the razzias are employed as
+serfs on the soil, or servants in the town. In Kanou, a rich man has
+three or four thousand slaves; these are permitted to work on their own
+account, and they pay him as their lord and master a certain number of
+cowries every month: some bring one hundred, some three hundred or six
+hundred, or as low as fifty cowries a-month. On the accumulation of
+these various monthly payments of the poor slaves the great man
+subsists, and is rich and powerful in the country. This system prevails
+in all the Fellatah districts.
+
+At dusk, there was a hue and cry near our house. I ran out to see what
+it was: the noise and stir was nothing less than an attempt of a slave
+to escape. The poor fellow was surrounded by a mass of men and boys, all
+anxious to seize him and deliver him to his master, to obtain the
+reward.
+
+My sympathies certainly begin to cool when I see the conduct of these
+blacks to one another. The blacks are, in truth, the real active
+men-stealers, though incited thereto frequently by the slave-merchants
+of the north and south. It must be confessed, that if there were no
+white men from the north or south to purchase the supply of slaves
+required out of Africa, slavery would still flourish, though it might be
+often in a mitigated form; and this brings me to the reiteration of my
+opinion, that only foreign conquest by a power like Great Britain or
+France can really extirpate slavery from Africa.
+
+_3d._--The sky never gets clear here till late at night. I read several
+pieces of Milton's poetry. I went to the gardens to see the wells:
+people fetch water from the wells of the gardens, where the supply is
+sufficiently abundant. I observed in the gardens the henna plant, the
+cotton plant, the indigo plant, and the tobacco plant. All these appear
+to be commonly cultivated in the gardens of Zinder. There are scarcely
+any other vegetables but onions, and beans, and tomatas; but the people
+cultivate a variety of small herbs, for making the sauce of their
+bazeens and other flour-puddings. The castor-oil tree is found in the
+town and in the hedges of the gardens in abundance.
+
+A Tuarick woman was brought here to-day for me to cure. She had been in
+an ailing, wasting state, for the last four years; the husband said that
+the devil had touched his wife, and reduced her to this state. Another
+woman was brought with an immense wen upon her abdomen. I have given
+away nearly all my Epsom salts, and now supply emetics. It is necessary
+to purge these people immediately, in a few hours, or they think you do
+nothing for them, or will not or cannot do them any good. Many Tuaricks
+come from the open country. We have also frequent cases of ophthalmia,
+mostly from the villages around.
+
+This evening I was charmed by the vocal sounds of a strolling minstrel,
+attended by two drummers with small drums, called _kuru_, and a chorus
+of singing-girls collected from the neighbourhood. The chorus-singers
+sang like charity-school girls at church. Altogether the singing was
+more pleasing than the monotonous, plaintive sounds of the Arabs.
+
+It seems difficult to get off. Everybody is making preparations for our
+journey, from the Sultan to the lowest slave sent from Kuka to assist in
+the transport of the boat and our baggage, and yet nothing is done!
+
+I parted with my new acquaintance, Medi, to-day, a soldier and slave of
+the Sarkee. He has been occasionally my cicerone in Zinder. He had been
+captured from a child, and is now past middle age, and knows little of
+the loss of home. He was a friendly chap, and gave me all the
+information he could make me understand in Soudanee and Bornouee.
+
+The evening was warm; a most pestilential sort of mist usually covers
+the ground at dark. After an hour or so it clears off--a few meteors now
+and then.
+
+_4th, Dies non._--It is said we shall probably leave this to-morrow.
+Read Milton all day. Weather sultry hot; did not go out. Thermometer in
+the evening, at dark, 80�.
+
+_5th._--I had a visit from a number of Tuarick ladies from the villages
+around, all of whom put their hands to their stomachs, and pretended
+they were mighty ill. I gave them all round a cup of tea. The renegade
+Jew came this morning, and gave me a list of all the things sold in the
+market of Kanou.
+
+I went in the afternoon to see the Ka�d of Haj Beshir of Kuka, called
+Abd-el-kerim. He had a female slave afflicted with the leprosy, and sent
+for me to come and see her. He gave me some gour-nuts, and I found him a
+friendly man. Denham represents the Bornou people of his time as very
+fanatical. At present I have seen nothing of this. But we are in a
+province where there are many Hazna, or pagans; and the people of Zinder
+are but lukewarm Muslims. I have yet had no instance of fanaticism,
+either from people of Kuka or from residents here.
+
+I was amused by the relation of Haj Mohammed Ben Welid respecting his
+intercourse with an American vessel at Niffee.[20] He first describes
+the vessel as very large; the sides being ascended by a ladder. Then
+these Americans (English they were called) had a black interpreter, who
+spoke Arabic. Through this black fellow they inquired of the man of
+Ghadamez from whence he came. He replied, "Ghadamez,"--this they did not
+know; then "Trablous,"--this they did not know; then "Tunis,"--nor was
+this place known; and, finally, "Malta." "Ah!" they cried, "we have
+heard of this place." They then asked him what he traded in, and gave
+him some tobacco and rum. They were full of goods of every
+description,--calicoes, powder, shot, rum, tobacco, dollars, and _wad�
+yaser_ (a great quantity of cowries), &c.
+
+ [20] See the Appendix. This Haj appears to have given some
+      useful information to Mr. Richardson.--ED.
+
+My room has been an hospital all this day, full of the sick, with
+various disorders. They come mostly from the villages around Zinder, and
+amongst them are a great number of Tuaricks, these people being more
+exposed to the weather, or more delicate, or more fanciful in their
+complaints. These poor devils all bring something--a little cheese, or a
+little milk; and I have received more of these trifling presents from
+them during the twenty days that I have been in Zinder, than in all the
+five or six months which I spent in their country. The reason may be,
+that in Asben they have nothing (or next to nothing), whilst here reigns
+abundance. Our servants say now that the Tuaricks always bring
+something, and the townspeople of Zinder nothing. Some of the Tuaricks
+are not sick; they come only to see the Christian, and stop, and look,
+and stare, and watch the minutest action of the said Christian,--more
+especially the women, who would never leave my room if I were not to
+drive them away.
+
+_6th._--I am told by a well-informed person, that morals are much
+relaxed here. To-day a black man came from the country to beg for his
+wife, who had been taken away from him and given to a Moor, who was
+about to send her to the coast for sale. She is to be restored to the
+man in exchange for two young girls, whom he has fetched from the
+country (probably kidnapped). The woman, however, has been given over,
+in the first place, to Shroma, the commander-in-chief; and after she has
+passed two or three days with him, she will be allowed to return to her
+husband. This woman was first kidnapped by the Sultan, and belonged to
+the Sheikh's dominions, to a village near Zinder, and was taken in a
+razzia. The Sultan gave or sold her to the Moor. This is a sample of the
+transactions daily going on there. I am also assured that the three
+hundred wives of the Sarkee himself are at almost everybody's disposal,
+two or three gour-nuts being the utmost which these ladies ask. But this
+is not all; for these women, wives of the Sultan, have intrigues with
+the slaves of the Sultan, with the brothers of the Sultan, and even with
+the sons of the Sultan. Whatever may be said of the Tuaricks and their
+freebooting, they do not practise such revolting immoralities as these.
+
+The Sarkee of Zinder is feared both by Fellatahs and Tuaricks,
+especially on account of the barbarous nature of his executions, which I
+have described. It may be supposed that a better system, both of
+government and morality, is practised in Kuka, and the more connected
+Bornou provinces.
+
+A man came to me to beg or buy some large beads for his wife; he said
+his wife was very anxious for them, to wear round her loins. Various are
+the caprices of fashion. Europeans show their finery, but here children
+and women wear beads round their loins under their clothes.
+
+It is now said we shall leave Zinder positively on Saturday next.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVII.
+
+News from Tesaoua--Razzia on Sakkatou--Laziness in Zinder--The
+Hajah--Herds of Cattle--More Tuarick Patients--Gardens--My
+Luggage--Adieu to the Sarkee--Present from his Highness--Start from
+Zinder--Country--Birds--Overtake the Kashalla--Slaves for
+Kanou--Continue the Journey--People of Deddegi--Their Timidity--Horse
+Exercise--Cotton--Strange Birds--Occupation of Men and Women--State of
+African Society--Islamism and Paganism--Character of the Kashalla--A
+Dogberry--Guddemuni--Cultivation--Beggars--Dancing Maidens.
+
+
+A Shereef has come here to-day from Tesaoua, and reports that Overweg
+left that place for Maradee, about eight days since, with a Tuarick of
+En-Noor. The city of Maradee is but an hour from Gonder, and is about
+twice the size of Zinder. The whole occupation of these two cities is
+that of razzia, and their subsistence and riches are all derived from
+this source. These places also swarm with Tuaricks, Kilgris, Iteesan,
+and Kailouees, who join the blacks of Maradee and Gouber in their
+slave-hunting expeditions. A grand razzia is being perpetrated by the
+united forces of the Sultans of Maradee, Gouber, and Korgum, with the
+assistance of a thousand Tuarick horse, on the territories of the Sultan
+of Sakkatou. The cavalry of the marauders consists of some five
+thousand, and there are more than this number on foot. My informant says
+they will go near Kashna, perhaps to its very gates. So it seems the
+Sultan of Sakkatou, with all his power and his great cities, is unable
+to check, or apparently even to avenge, the depredations committed upon
+his most important provinces. It is said that the product of this razzia
+will be some of the finest slaves in this part of Africa, many of them
+almost white. We are to leave here to-morrow. Inshallah! It is too bad
+to be kept so long here, when Haj Beshir has sent orders for us to come
+immediately.
+
+_7th._--The morning was cool; thermometer at sunrise, 58�. I slept
+little, being angry at being kept here so long. I read Milton to divert
+my mind awhile from African subjects.
+
+There seems to be little industry in Zinder. The education of the
+greater part of the males is to fit them for razzias, and this must be
+considered as the principal cause of the unfeeling manner with which the
+blacks hereabouts look upon, their captive brethren. These captives are
+their means of livelihood; they live on the products of the razzias,
+and, of course, the superior intellects with which they may come in
+contact countenance all their proceedings; for the foreign merchants are
+equally interested with them in their inhuman expeditions. Africa is
+bled from all pores by her own children, seconded by the cupidity of
+strangers.
+
+All the Moors and Arabs whom I conversed with extol the power of the
+Sheikh of Bornou, and represent him as the greatest sheikh in Central
+Africa. Nevertheless, the Fellatahs are everywhere, far and wide, from
+Sakkatou to Adamaua, a dominant people, though few in number compared
+with the population of the subjected kingdoms.
+
+One of the most remarkable women, perhaps the only remarkable woman in
+Zinder at the present moment, is a certain Hajah (i.e. a woman who has
+made the pilgrimage of Mekka). She is a native of Fezzan, and is now
+employed in the household of the Sheikh of Bornou. She is excessively
+free and easy with all men folks; and although such a saint, her
+chastity, I am told, does not rate high. She returns to Kuka with us--no
+great gain to our caravan.
+
+Near our enclosure is a long space full of bullocks and cows--some four
+hundred and fifty. These are distributed amongst the whole population by
+ones, twos, and threes. I have seen no herd but this, and if this is
+really the only one, it speaks little for the wealth of the people of
+Zinder. In fact, with regard to horses it is much the same,--the Shereef
+can hardly find me a horse to ride on in the whole town.
+
+Apparently, Zinder is a wretchedly poor place. All are needy, from the
+Sarkee downwards, and when they get any property it all comes from the
+razzias. The system of living on rapine and man-stealing seems to bring
+its own punishment along with it.
+
+A _posse_ of Tuarick patients assailed me very early this morning. The
+Tuaricks, who have more intellect than the blacks, let loose their
+imagination to fancy they have all sorts of complaints. Thus I have more
+patients from them than from the people of Zinder, and am quite
+undeceived as to my having done with this tribe when I entered the gates
+of this town. There is, however, this difference now, that they treat me
+with the greatest respect, and are very quiet, bringing presents instead
+of demanding presents.
+
+The Tuaricks of Gurasu, I hear, have a bad name, and are troublesome to
+the Sheikh.
+
+I went to the gardens this morning and yesterday morning--it is an
+immense relief from the enclosure of huts in town--but have not observed
+anything new. I am told that the suburbs of Kanou are full of palms.
+Zinder, if the people were industrious, could have its forests of palms,
+bearing luscious fruit twice a-year. But, alas! the excitement of the
+razzia destroys the taste for all rational industry. What bandit could
+ever settle down into a tiller of the ground?
+
+_8th._--The people came this morning, in a great hurry, to take off the
+luggage, and afterwards pretended that I should go to-morrow, whilst the
+baggage must be forwarded to-day. This arrangement I positively refused
+to comply with, being determined to stop no longer.
+
+I went to take leave of the Sarkee. His highness had nothing to say, and
+we as little to him. We just shook hands, and that was all. He is not
+very well pleased with his late man-hunt. He still owes twenty thousand
+dollars, which it will require a dozen such speculations to pay off. The
+castle outside was besieged with soldiers, all lounging and listening to
+two or three drummers. I am disgusted to see so many idle people. The
+only novelty was four or five singing-women, who sung choruses inside
+the walls to a drummer. All the soldiers in undress, or not going on
+razzia, are bare-headed, and also nearly all the inhabitants of the
+town. A few persons, mostly women, wear a piece of blue cotton cloth
+over their heads, tied tight, so as to have the appearance of a cap. The
+common sort of women go with their breasts bare; others, of higher rank,
+drag up their skirts to cover their breasts; and a few add a piece of
+cotton cloth, which they throw over their shoulders like a shawl.
+
+The Sarkee has presented Yusuf with a horse, blind with one eye, and not
+much bigger than a jackass, in return for the present Yusuf made to him.
+In fact, this potentate is now as poor as a rat, and has nothing to give
+away. When he has anything, he soon parts with it, being generous to
+prodigality. The title Sarkee is used for men of inferior rank, and is
+something like Bey.
+
+I waited till three o'clock, P.M., for my servants, and Sa�d of Haj
+Beshir, to come and bring the oxen for the rest of the baggage--the boat
+and the heavy baggage left in the morning; and seeing no signs of their
+preparation, I determined to be no longer duped by them, and told the
+servant of Haj Beshir that I would start to-day, be the consequence what
+it might. So off I went to the Shereef, and told him I must go at once,
+to follow the Kashalla, who had taken away the box in which was the
+chronometer, and I must go to wind it up early in the morning. He
+immediately informed the Sarkee, and asked for a soldier. A soldier was
+forthwith brought, and a message from the Sarkee, that the horse which
+had been sent for me to ride upon was a present from his highness to me.
+This is the first present of the kind I have received in Africa; and
+after giving away about five hundred pounds sterling of Government money
+I have got in return, at last, a horse worth one pound fifteen shillings
+and fourpence, the current value of this country! The Sarkee of Zinder
+is miserably poor, but he was afraid to let me go to Kuka, to his
+master, without giving me a present.
+
+I started from Zinder, riding my "gift horse," about an hour before
+sunset, and arrived at Dairmummegai, a very large village, where the
+Kashalla had pitched tent, after three hours' ride. Our course was due
+east, through a scattered forest of dwarf-trees, in which were
+fluttering about a number of strange-looking birds, that reminded me I
+was in a foreign land. One solitary bird excited my pity; its form was
+something like that of a small crane, but, verily, it was most
+disproportionally thin, with very long neck and shanky legs. It was
+wandering about as if it had lost itself in the world; and yet a bird
+losing itself in the world is a strange notion! We met a couple of
+huntsmen, on the shoulders of one of whom was coiled a fine bleeding
+gazelle. These huntsmen had only bows and arrows, and they had managed
+to get a gazelle, whilst we, with all our matchlocks and muskets, had
+never been able to shoot one of these animals during our eight or nine
+months of passage through the desert. The Kashalla was exceedingly glad
+at my arrival, and got ready a bowl of new milk. He is a man of some
+fifty or sixty years of age, black, and with Bornou features, speaking a
+little Arabic. The greater part of the Bornou people know a few words of
+this language. The Sheikh sent him to bring the boat and our baggage. He
+is a friendly, quiet man, whilst the man sent by Haj Beshir, Sa�d, is an
+impudent slave, and only thinking of what he can get by his journey.
+
+I saw, as I passed through the streets of Zinder this morning, a number
+of slaves chained together, going to the market of Kanou; so that this
+place is the great central d�p�t of this merchandise. These were some of
+the fruits of the Sarkee's last razzia.
+
+_9th._--The morning was cool, and we started early, and made six hours
+and a-quarter in a general south-east direction, through a continuation
+of scattered forests, with open spaces, the wood being broken in upon
+here and there by a scanty ghaseb cultivation. Amongst the trees, some
+rose with giant arms and all the characters of tropical vegetation. The
+country was undulating, with ranges of low hills. Blocks of granite were
+scattered on the surface of the ground; in the deeper valleys lay
+stagnant water of the last rains, fast drying up; and here were
+water-fowls, waders, and some large, strange, black-and-white geese,
+with necks of enormous length.
+
+After three hours and a-quarter we came to the considerable village of
+Deddegi, where, on our appearance, all the inhabitants fetching water or
+tending cattle ran away. This I may remark, as the first time that the
+people ran away at our appearance amongst them. Hitherto we have always
+had the population pressing upon us for curiosity, or to attack and
+plunder us. Things change. But the flight of the people of Deddegi is
+easily explained. We were soon recognised as a Bornou caravan, and the
+Bornouese in coming to Zinder,--the Sheikh's people especially,--have
+been in the habit of plundering these villages, or carrying off the
+people and their cattle, the former into slavery. Recently the Sarkee
+has complained of this, and the Sheikh, to do him justice, has ordered
+the Sarkee to seize any Bornouese committing these misdemeanours, and
+execute what justice he pleases upon them. The Sarkee, now, will not be
+slack to obey his master's commands. Still it is not surprising the
+people ran away from a Bornou caravan.
+
+We encamped at the group of villages called Dairmu. My "gift horse" had
+given me most excruciating pain in riding, and I was obliged to dismount
+for half an hour. The saddles are very bad, and cut you raw before you
+are accustomed to them. But I must submit to this fatigue, for now I
+must ride horses and put away the camel, which is too slow for
+travelling in Soudan, where water and herbage are found for the horses
+every two or three hours.
+
+After I was somewhat recovered, I went to see the village, and found all
+the people working upon cotton; some cleaning it, some winding it into
+balls, and others weaving the gubaga, or narrow strips of cotton cloth,
+with which the greater number of the population are clothed. A small
+portion of the cotton-twist is dyed with indigo, and with this and the
+undyed a species of check-cotton cloth is woven; but all very rude. The
+Sheikh of the place supplied the caravan with bazeen. For myself I
+purchased a couple of fowls, which cost just twopence farthing in
+English money: they were, however, small; and I may remark that all
+fowls are small in this country, and most of the domestic animals, like
+horses, sheep, dogs, cats, &c. are diminutive when compared to those of
+Europe. The bullocks, however, are of a good size, with branching horns.
+The sheep have no wool, or rather, the wool takes the appearance and
+substance of hair, like that of a dog; and their tails, too, are like
+those of dogs; but, indeed, the Soudan sheep are well known. No fruit or
+vegetables are found in these villages: not even onions, common in most
+places. The birds have all a strange appearance. I am no naturalist, and
+wonder when I should examine. That filthy species of vulture, the
+scavenger of Zinder, is seen in twos and threes. The woods abound in
+turtle-doves. I gave the Kashalla a ring for himself and his female
+slave, or wife, as it may be. Very few men of this sort have wives: all
+their women are slaves. He was greatly pleased with the present.
+
+_10th._--My thermometer remains behind with the baggage at Zinder,
+expected to-day. Here we wait for it, and the rest of the caravan. I
+oiled myself well last night with olive oil, and feel much better this
+morning. During a walk through the villages, I observed that two-thirds
+of the male population, as in Zinder, are quite idle, lounging about, or
+stretched at their full length upon the dust of the ground. A third find
+something to do, either in working on cotton, or making matting, or in
+the gardens, where tobacco, pepper, cotton, and indigo are grown. These
+are the staple products of the gardens in this part of Africa. The women
+have always something to occupy their time, suckling their children,
+fetching water, cooking, or else picking cotton. All the males, I
+imagine, at some seasons of the year, find occupation, when the ghaseb
+is sown and when reaped. But, nevertheless, what powerfully solicits the
+observation of the European in looking into these villages is the
+downright livelong idleness of the male population.
+
+We begin, at length, to regard this region merely as the nursery-ground
+of slavery--of the system which takes away the idlers to perform their
+share of the curse pronounced on Adam, that in the sweat of his brow he
+should eat and earn his bread. Again it is to be observed, that the
+wants of these people are very few: they live on ghaseb and milk, eating
+little meat; these come to them almost without labour. The ground is
+tilled by burning the stubble of the previous year, or by burning the
+trees on new land. The seed is thrown in when the rain begins, and
+nothing more is done till the grain is ripe for the sickle, when it is
+gathered in. It is collected under small sheds made of matting, and
+eaten as it is wanted. The cattle are mostly driven to graze and to
+water, and this is all the attention they require. The cotton furnishes
+a scanty clothing, deemed sufficient; all the children go naked till
+they are ten years old, or only wear a piece of cotton, leather, or a
+skin round their loins. The men of some consequence buy a tobe brought
+from Kanou or Niffee; the women purchase a few beads and other ornaments
+with their fowls or ghaseb. The bowls or household utensils are made
+from gourds, in shape like a cucumber, but straight, with a knob at the
+end; they are slit in two, and thus form two spoons, the concave head of
+the gourd serving as the bowl, the other part as the handle. These
+calabashes, some of which are pretty, are hung up within the huts as
+ornaments. On peeping into these huts, nothing is seen but these said
+calabashes, except the strings or nets by which they are suspended on
+the sides of the huts. As you enter there is always a partition-wall on
+your right hand, and a round entrance at the further end of the hut to
+this part, partitioned off. This space, so divided off, is the
+sleeping-place, where there is a raised bench of mud, or a bedstead made
+of cane or wickers. A few utensils for culture, an axe and a hoe, may be
+mentioned, all made by native blacksmiths, of the rudest description.
+Iron is found in the native rocks of Soudan, and is not imported. The
+greatest skill of the African blacksmith is, alas! shown in forging the
+manacles for slaves. I must mention that many of the huts have walls of
+clay, and roofs only of thatch or matting. The grain-stacks are also
+raised a foot or two from the ground, on stakes, to prevent the ghaseb
+getting wet during the rainy season. Thus it is that these children of
+Africa live a life of simplicity little above pure savages, and I may
+add, a life of comparative idleness, and perhaps happiness, in their
+point of view.
+
+Yesterday our Kashalla made a move to say his prayers. He was surrounded
+by the people who came with him from Zinder and Bornou, and the
+inhabitants of Dairmu. He prayed, but prayed alone, none following his
+example! It is quite clear that all the black population hereabouts are
+only nominal Muslims, and remain in heart pure Hazna, or pagans. Those
+who do pray, pray very little indeed; there is no sensual charin or
+allurement in Mahommedanism for the African mind, whilst its fasts and
+commands of abstinence from strong drinks deter thousands from embracing
+the religion of the false Prophet. It cannot allure the African by
+polygamy, because the African has as many women as he pleases by the
+permission of his native superstition. Islamism, therefore, takes no
+hold of the native African mind. There are a few Tuaricks scattered
+amongst all this population, but living generally out of the villages by
+themselves; they are all subjects of the Sheikh, and have escaped the
+desert to lead an easier life in Soudan. It is strange that some of the
+Tuarick women are enormously corpulent, whilst a corpulent woman is not
+found amongst the blacks. I must add, that the morality of these black
+villages seems of a much higher and purer kind than that of the Tuarick
+villages of Asben. Here they do not look upon woman, as in Asben, simply
+in the light of an instrument of pleasure: but I fear this will soon
+change. What morality, indeed, can there be without higher and more
+binding motives?
+
+I was much pleased with the condescension of the Kashalla in furnishing
+me with information on routes, and gave him a head of sugar. He is a man
+of great generosity, and immediately divided it amongst his people. He
+says he never leaves the Sheikh's presence, and it was solely on account
+of me that the Sheikh sent him to fetch me from Zinder. If this be true,
+their sovereign has paid a high compliment to the Mission.
+
+The only character whom I could discover in Dairmu was the constable, or
+general police-officer. This was an ill-looking fellow, with one eye
+damaged,--a most unamiable Dogberry. He approached the Kashalla twice,
+keeping, however, at a timid distance, kneeling down and throwing the
+dust in handfulls over his head, in the most abject manner. Yet this man
+was the dread of the whole neighbourhood! The exercise of all
+disagreeable employments seems to debase man. Before his superiors he
+crouches and grovels in dust; with the people he commands, he is a very
+tyrant!
+
+_10th._--I was joined yesterday evening by the rest of the caravan,
+Sa�d, and Moknee, and my new interpreter. Sa�d brings goods for Haj
+Beshir. We started early, and made seven hours; our route varying
+between east and south-east, through a fine wavy country, rising at
+times into high hills, with few trees in comparison to what we have
+hitherto had, and a good deal of cultivation, all ghaseb. The sandy soil
+is well adapted for this kind of grain. A ridge of quartz rocks strikes
+up through the sand. The rocky hills are mostly granite. The atmosphere
+was cooled by an easterly wind. We pitched tent, or rather halted, at a
+cluster of villages of considerable size, the principal of which is
+Guddemuni. They are all placed on hills. In the deep valley near is a
+large lake, towards the east, about two hours long and half-an-hour
+wide. In the dry season the people cultivate, by irrigation from the
+lake, a quantity of wheat, which they export to Kanou. Besides wheat,
+they raise ghaseb on the hill tops; and in the gardens, cotton, indigo,
+tobacco, onions, pepper, dates (bearing twice a-year), henna, potatoes
+(_dankali_), the palm (_geginya_),--bearing a large fruit (_gonda_),
+like the mealy melon,--gourds, rogo, and gwaza; which last are two
+species of potatoes. Some large trees are planted like the kuka, the
+fruit of which is used for sauce.
+
+To-day the Kashalla rode up to several men wandering in the fields,
+hunting, and attempted to impose some labour on them. This was a signal
+for a general stoppage of all foot-passengers, who were met by his
+people, for one purpose or another, either to take from them any little
+articles, or to vex them. They did not, however, stop two people we met,
+but gave them full leave to pass. Who were these? One was a man who, by
+disease, had become all over of a light flesh-colour, his black skin
+peeling off. It was a perfect phenomenon--a man with strong negro
+features, entirely white, or of a light dull-red colour. The other man
+was a miserable, filthy, blind fellow, whom the first invalid was
+leading. They were, in fact, a couple of mendicants going to Zinder on
+speculation, having come from Kuka, begging through all the towns and
+villages. The trade of begging is coextensive with man, civilised or
+uncivilised, in towns or country. Africa has a good number of this
+industrious class of people.
+
+The language of this cluster of villages is Haussa, like that of Zinder,
+the "Haussa of the North," as it is called: it varies a little from the
+pure Haussa of Kashna and Kanou. The people of this place were all
+excessively civil. I walked out in the evening, and saw about thirty of
+the maidens of Guddemuni (one of the villages) encircling a female
+dancer, who kept pacing to the sound of a rude guitar. At the sight of
+me they all made off. The poor blacks in these villages always expect
+that the white man comes to bring them into slavery. Afterwards I went
+to salute the Sultan. We saw him during two minutes; he kept rubbing his
+hands, as if he were cold. He was a sinister-looking man, dressed in a
+white tobe; he had not the least suspicion of what a Christian might be.
+I made the acquaintance of the taste of the doom-palm, in a dish of
+pastry seasoned by it. The taste is something like rhubarb, only a
+little sharper.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVIII.
+
+A Village plundered--Shaidega--Animals--Our Biscuit--Villages _en
+route_--Minyo--Respect for Learning--Monotony of the Country--A
+Wedding--Palsy--Slave-agents--Kal, Kal--Birni Gamatak--Tuaricks on the
+Plain--Palms--Sight the Town of Gurai--Bare Country--Bearings of various
+Places--Province of Minyo--Visit the Sultan--Audience-room--Fine
+Costume--A Scene of Barbaric Splendour--Trade--Estimate of Wealth--How
+to amuse a Prince--Small Present--The Oars carried by Men--Town of
+Gurai--Fortifications.
+
+
+_Feb. 11th._--I rose early, and started as usual, as quick as possible.
+We made seven hours and a-half, and halted at a small village called
+Bogussa. After the fifth hour we came to the hamlet of Dugurka, which
+the Kashalla delivered up to plunder, because the people refused to give
+him some water. This is the story of my servants, which I do not
+believe. But certain it is, that, after the Kashalla passed the hamlet,
+his people, who loitered behind, commenced a general pillage of the poor
+little village. The inhabitants had all fled at our approach, save one
+old man. All the hut-doors were violently torn away and the insides
+ransacked. The spoils were leben, bowls or calabashes, bows and arrows,
+axes, and some other trifles. Of live-stock, all the fowls were seized
+and slaughtered on the spot; also a lamb. My interpreter tells me that
+all the slaves of the Government of Bornou are marauders, and that it
+was for this reason the Sarkee of Zinder complained to the Sheikh of the
+government caravans seizing the people and sacking their villages. In
+all my life I never saw such an instance of the triumph of might over
+right. My servants, most of them Bornouese, joined their brethren with
+great eagerness. To remonstrate with them is useless. I have had several
+quarrels of remonstrance already since I have been in the Sheikh's
+territory, about similar acts of brigandage; and if I go on, I shall
+quarrel with all the world of Africa, every hour of the day. I
+reproached my servants ironically. I told them some one would soon come
+and take their camels and bullocks, and they must not complain to me to
+get them redress. But it is astonishing to see with what zest these
+freed slaves from the north coast enter again upon their old habits of
+plunder and razzia. The education of Africa consists in preparing it for
+the razzia. All the fine-spirited youth of all the great families look
+forward to this as their only occupation.
+
+We reached the rocky hills called Shaidega, near which the lake
+terminates, stretching from Guddemuni. At the base of these rocky
+heights is a sprinkling of huts, and there are indeed many sprinklings
+of huts which cannot be mentioned all along this route. The hill tops
+have no longer the naked appearance of the Saharan rocks, but are
+clothed and crowned with trees. The country is very fine and park-like,
+and were it not for the doom-palm, would be more like some of the best
+parts of Europe than Africa is supposed to be. The animals seen to day
+were two wild boars and some wild oxen. A couple of lions, a male and a
+female, come out nearly every night and serenade the villagers of
+Bogussa at their hut doors. The filthy vultures of Zinder are spread
+through all this fine country. Many doves and water-fowl were seen. We
+forded several stagnant streams of water, but of very small magnitude.
+
+I sheltered myself in the afternoon under a magnificent tree, called in
+Bornouese _kamdu_, and in Soudanese, _samia_. We are beginning to see
+very fine trees, casting an impervious shade, under which the weary
+traveller deliciously reposes in the hot clime. To-day I suffered most
+dreadfully from my horse; with a camel I should have felt nothing, but I
+must submit: there is no remedy.
+
+I believe the Kashalla to be a very good man, and above his plundering
+countrymen generally, but habit induces him to wink at the acts of
+brigandage committed by his people. I observed him yesterday stop a
+little boy with a load on his head, and tell him to run away from the
+people coming up, and take another road, that the caravan might not
+plunder him.
+
+I had an affair with Yusuf yesterday morning: two boxes of biscuit had
+been left entire in his room at Zinder, and now one of them was found
+opened and a quantity of the biscuit taken out. He and his son have
+eaten nearly all the biscuit on the road, together with the Sfaxee and
+others. It is preposterous to think that Government sent these biscuits
+for them, who can eat ghaseb, ghafouley, and any grain of this country,
+and thrive on such food. The Germans gave away their biscuit,
+complaining that it was an embarrassment to them. This encouraged the
+people to plunder me of mine, and now I have little left for the rest of
+my travelling in Africa during the present journey.
+
+_12th._--We started early; the weather always cool, with fresh breezes
+from the east. All our people seem in good health. I got up rather
+stiff, having had a good fall from my horse yesterday. We made only
+three hours and a-half, part north-east and the rest due east. When I
+dismounted I felt less fatigued, and wrote up my journal. We passed
+several villages _en route_ during these few hours; they occur, indeed,
+only about half-an-hour apart: viz. first in order after Bogussa,
+Gerremari, then Lekarari, Algari, a village of fighi pedagogues,
+Giddejer, and then Collori, where we have halted. It is said we shall
+still be three days before we get to the Sultan Minyo, and we have to
+pass Gamatak, Barataua, Birmi, Wonchi, Tungari, and finally, on the
+third day, early, we are to arrive at Gurai, the capital, governed by
+Minyo or Minyoma. Bogussa is the first district under the sway of this
+personage. We have in his name a remarkable instance of how in Africa
+names of cities and countries are confounded with those of their
+provinces. Hitherto, I and my interpreter had always taken it for
+granted that Minyo was the name of the capital of the province, not of
+the prince; so we understood from everybody, and only to-day we learn
+that Gurai is the name of the capital, whilst the province is called
+after the name of the prince, i.e. Minyo, or Minyoma.[21]
+
+ [21] It is worth while leaving this mistake of Mr. Richardson
+      or his informants, as an illustration of the great
+      difficulty that exists in eliciting accurate facts from
+      natives of Africa and other uncivilised countries.--ED.
+
+Our route this morning lay through a remarkably fine district, teeming
+with fertility, and requiring only the hand of industry to render it the
+richest country in the world. Not a ten-thousandth part of the soil is
+cultivated. We met a troop of schoolboys with their masters; their
+boards, bedaubed with Arabic characters, would have been an effectual
+protection for them against a troop of horsemen a thousand times larger
+than ours. But, nevertheless, a poor woman, or a girl with a bowl of
+milk or a little butter, could not pass unscathed. Such is morality
+here. May there not, however, be some promise in this respect for
+education? A woodman left his axe a moment on the roadside; one of our
+troopers immediately went off and seized it. The woodman, returning,
+followed the trooper to the Kashalla, and falling down, and throwing
+dust over his head, begged for his axe as for his life. The Kashalla
+could not withstand the appeal, and ordered his trooper to restore the
+axe. The fellow had concealed the axe, and it was lucky the owner
+discovered the thief so soon. The poor man went away very thankful,
+thanking me also. I believe I may be some check on these depredations,
+for I told my interpreter last night that I never saw a village, or any
+people, pillaged in the Christian countries; in fact, that I could not
+have hitherto believed that men could do the things which I saw done
+that day by the servants of the Kashalla. It is probable he will mention
+what I said to some one, and it will get to the ears of the said
+Kashalla. The Africans, in plundering one another, appear as if they
+were avenging some old grudge; as if they remembered the various
+occasions when they themselves had been pillaged. They rob with
+wonderful _gusto_.
+
+A monotonous uniformity begins to prevail over all these tracts. I am
+afraid I shall soon get tired of this negro population and these towns,
+all built and all peopled in the same manner. They seem remarkably
+curious at first, but curiosity soon palls.
+
+We have with us the Hajah, mentioned before. She is very quiet, being
+_pass�e_, and also afraid of the Sheikh's people.
+
+I went round the village and found some five hundred or six hundred
+people nestled together. All the villages which we passed to-day have a
+similar population. I saw the preparations for a wedding; it was a most
+amusing sight. Two enclosures were crowded with people, all busy; but
+the busiest were those grinding corn for the marriage-feast. The
+bridegroom was with one group, haranguing them in the most persevering
+manner, and rattling a hollow gourd filled with small stones. The group
+replied in chorus, all on their knees, bending forward, rubbing grain
+between two stones. The other group went on by themselves. Then, in an
+enclosure close by, was the bride, attended with, all her maiden
+friends, jammed together in a hut, all busy, doing nobody knows what. It
+was with great difficulty I could get a peep at her. The bride and her
+friends were distinguished by having a sort of brass nail-head driven
+through the right nostril of their noses. Good big boys were running
+about quite naked. But the conduct of the people, old and young, was
+quite decent.
+
+The bridegroom followed me to my tent, rattling his calabash for a
+present, singing my praises cheaply enough, for I gave him a very small
+present indeed. They have no set songs; all their singing is extempore.
+
+Afterwards I saw a man afflicted with palsy in his head. He applied to
+me for a remedy, but I could only recommend him to bathe himself every
+day in warm water, which will never be done; for these people are too
+indolent to perform any labour of this kind, even if it be to save their
+lives.
+
+My new interpreter, Mohammed, pretends that slave servants, or agents,
+are thought more of, that is, are more useful, than free people in
+Bornou. This may be accounted for by the absolute control which a master
+can exercise over his slave.
+
+The thermometer at sunset ranges 84�. It was very warm this afternoon.
+
+Here and there an ostrich egg tops the conical roofs of the huts, from
+Damerghou to this place. I showed the people my watch, and put it to
+their ears that they might hear it tick, tick; and I may observe a
+singularity on this. The people did not say, "Oh! how it ticks!" but
+"Kal, kal!" so that kal, kal, is the sound which we express by tick,
+tick, in our language.
+
+_13th._--As usual, we rose before sunrise, and started as soon as
+possible. We made four hours in the forenoon, and rested at a well
+called Birni Gamatak. The village is near the well, but we did not go to
+it. From this place to the Tuarick country, Gurasu, there are four short
+days; but the road has no water in this season. The Ka�d of the village
+paid us a visit, and brought us ghaseb-water. I amused him and his
+people with my watch and compass. After resting till 4 P.M. we started
+again. At Birni Gamatak a zone of mountainous country begins, consisting
+of granite, gneiss, and other varieties of primitive rocks. We had a
+magnificent ride through a fine rocky country. After one hour and a-half
+we passed Wonchi to the right, or south of us; a small village. On the
+route we had a boundless vista through the hills, over a vast plain,
+covered with a scattered forest, extending without end towards the
+north. This country is overrun by Tuaricks; all, however, living in
+friendship with the Sheikh. We made five hours and a-half, always east,
+so that we did not arrive at Tungari till long after daylight. Tungari
+consists of two or three considerable villages, having a population of
+about two thousand. Here I saw a greater number of date-trees than I had
+yet seen in Soudan. There were larger plantations, and many gardens. I
+have nothing particular to observe respecting this place, except that
+the people showed more boldness than the population subjected to the
+Sultan of Zinder; because the Sultan of Minyo gives them more protection
+against the Bornou marauders, or Government servants, travelling through
+the country. I went to bed thoroughly fatigued.
+
+_14th._--We rose at daybreak and went off immediately, and made four
+hours north-east, and then from a fine rising ground had a splendid view
+of all the town of Gurai. Our route yesterday and to-day began in a
+south-easterly direction, and after continuing east for some time
+gradually turned round to north-east, so that we have our faces again
+toward the northern desert. Yesterday I felt, for the first time, this
+approaching warm season--a hot wind, which, curiously enough, now comes
+from the north, whereas before it always came from the south.
+
+Gurai is very bare of trees, the townspeople having burnt them all up. I
+kept a-bed all day, to recruit myself from fatigue. The Kashalla went to
+salute the Sultan, who inquired after me. They reported my state, and
+said I should come to see him in the morning (i.e. of next day).
+
+According to a Gatronee, Kellai, a country of the Tuaricks, is one day
+only north-west from Gurai. It is a small village. Gurasu is five days
+from this, north-west. Dallakauri, also a Tuarick country, is one day
+northwards, or north-east. This is a large place. Bultumi, another
+Tuarick country, small; one day, east. Malumri, one day and a-half east.
+Therrai, a small place, a day beyond Dallakauri, north-west, two days
+from this. Chokada, a small place, five or six hours from this. All
+these places are inhabited by the Tuarick tribe of Duggera, viz. Kellai,
+Gurasu, Dallakauri, Bultumi, Malumri, Therrai, and Chokada. This tribe
+infests the upper part of the route of Bornou, that between the Tibboos
+and Kuka. Formerly they were great bandits, but now they fear the Sultan
+of Minyo, and begin to desist from their bad trade and turn to more
+peaceful habits. Bunai is one day and a-half south from Buroi, formerly
+the capital of the province of Minyo, and where the father of the
+present Sultan resided. It is a little less than Burai. Here we are told
+that, after all, Minyo is _not_ the name of the Sultan, as before
+mentioned, but the name of the province, which is sometimes called
+Minyoma, as being more euphonic; but all people love harmony in
+language. This province is considered the most powerful of the empire of
+Bornou.
+
+_15th._--Having selected my present for his highness the Sultan,
+consisting of a piece of cotton velvet for a tobe (ten mahboubs), a head
+of sugar, a little cinnamon and cloves, a piece of muslin for turbans,
+and a cotton handkerchief, I paid my visit under the escort of the
+Kashalla, and the Sultan's major-domo, a man carrying a large stick with
+a great knob at the end. We went straight to the palace, a considerable
+building, built of clay, like the Sultan's house at Zinder, in the shape
+of a fort or castle.
+
+We were first ushered into an audience-room or hall, of large
+dimensions, with little light, adapted for an African climate. It is
+newly built, and indeed not yet finished. The architecture is the same
+as the public buildings or houses of the chief officers in Kuka. Here we
+waited a quarter of an hour, during which time the people poured in from
+all quarters. At length we were ushered into the presence. I found the
+Sultan to be a good-looking black, with features not much stamped with
+the negro character. He was about the age of forty-five or fifty. His
+costume was truly royal, consisting of a loose tobe of purple silk, and
+a black burnouse, embroidered, thrown over it. He wore a turban of
+Egyptian form, and very handsome. His highness received me very affably,
+and I took my seat near him, on a pic-nic stool which I have with me. I
+shook hands, and doffed my hat. There was no throwing of dust about, as
+at Zinder. But we found the Sultan already seated, with all his
+courtiers and officers around him. His highness asked about my health,
+and the Tuaricks. He observed, "The Tuaricks are afraid of you." Some
+persons of that tribe, perhaps, have given him this false view of the
+case, pretending that the Tuaricks are afraid I am come to spy out the
+country, to be taken possession hereafter by the Queen. His highness
+minutely scanned all my European clothes, making many inquiries about
+them. All the people were highly delighted to see me throw aside my
+miserable Soudan tobe, and dress in my European costume. In fact, I
+don't know what I should have done without these clothes. The people
+then pulled off my boots, and burst out into an involuntary exclamation
+of astonishment when they saw my white leg under my stocking. My face
+and hands are both pretty well tanned, and the quality of the European
+skin is not so visible as in the parts of the body covered. His highness
+then inquired whether there was war in Europe, and whether peace existed
+between England and the Porte. He was very anxious to continue his
+questions, but there being two or three hundred persons present, he was
+obliged to defer them till the evening. I was much gratified with the
+sight. It was really a scene of African state, but without deformities.
+There was no blood, no slaying of victims, no abject ceremonies; nothing
+to offend the eye of the European. We merely saw, seated on a raised
+platform, a black, robed in barbaric style of splendour, with a hundred
+courtiers and officers squatted on the ground him, all humble beings,
+but not abject.
+
+On returning, his highness sent our caravan four bullocks, to be
+slaughtered for our use. To-day was market-day, but there was no stock
+of consequence here, there being little foreign commerce. There may be a
+score of foreign merchants, nearly all from Fezzan, but they are mere
+traders, and only bring a few things for the Sultan and his chief
+officers. These merchants say that there is no money here, nor, indeed,
+in Bornou.
+
+The place for money is Kanou. All the wealth of Central Africa is,
+according to them, concentrated there. Kanou is, in fact, the London of
+Soudan. I asked a merchant here, who was accounted rich; that is, who
+was a _Maidukia_? He replied, "One with property to the amount of a
+thousand dollars." Even a man with five hundred is accounted a somebody.
+Such is the estimate of wealth here. I expect to find all Bornou
+miserably poor.
+
+In the evening I waited again on his highness, according to appointment.
+He had descended from his throne, and divested himself of all his
+splendour, being now dressed in a plain tobe and burnouse. He received
+us squatted on a carpet upon the ground, in an inner court, and reminded
+me much of a stage king who had undressed after the performance. I
+produced all my wonderful things to amuse his highness,--my compass,
+spyglass, kaleidoscope, spectacles, peepshow, &c. In this way I amused
+him for an hour, he the while asking questions about my personal habits.
+Our people then told him the sovereign of England was a woman. "_Kamo?_"
+To which I replied, "_Kamo._" I was then requested to read some English,
+which I did from Milton. I always exhibit a small edition of Milton's
+poetry, with gilt edges and morocco binding, which greatly surprises all
+people accustomed to the use of books. The Kashalla then told his
+highness that I washed my face and hands continually, but did not pray.
+I explained through my interpreter that now, in a foreign country, I
+read my prayers, and that we had the Gospel; and he added, "The Zebour,"
+Psalms of David. All educated Muslims are acquainted with or have heard
+of the Psalms of David. I take out a copy of the Gospel and Psalms in
+Arabic, that every educated Mahommedan may see that we English are not
+the En-Sara or Kerdies of Africa, but have a God and a religion. The
+inconvenience of this is, that it leads sometimes to talking and
+disputing on religion, not always in season. A prudent man, however,
+will evade all difficulties without compromising his belief. We had
+again present a hundred people, or more, and his highness was disturbed
+at the number, but did not like to send them away. He asked me how old I
+was; and of my servants, whether I was married, &c.
+
+I returned pleased with my visit, although I lost one of my peepshows;
+for the Kashalla was foolish enough to tell me to give it to his
+highness. This is the danger of exhibiting these things. I took to the
+prince a small present of rings, silk, bracelets, and a necklace of mock
+pearls for his ladies; and hope to get back my peepshow by exchanging it
+for some such trinkets. This was a cool day, with a fresh breeze
+continually blowing.
+
+_16th._--I rose in a quieter state, though I have been much fatigued
+these last few days. It is expected we shall be here two or three days
+more. Fifteen days is the time allowed for our journey from this to
+Kuka. The people display greater curiosity to see me than the
+inhabitants of Zinder, this province being more out of the way of
+strangers. Yesterday, on returning from the palace, I had a hundred
+people at my heels.
+
+The mode of salutation for a sultan is peculiar in these provinces. It
+consists in holding up and back the lower part of the arm, and moving it
+up and down--to denote strength, probably; an intimation of local
+strength, as well as that of the body generally. I have been often
+saluted in this manner, and the mode is employed to strangers or any
+distinguished person.
+
+N.B.--The people of Kanem have not the shonshona.
+
+The oars of the boat are now carried, as the people say, by Ben-Adam
+(children of Adam, i.e. men). It is certainly more difficult to get them
+through these African forests than over the rocks of Sahara on the
+camel's back. Five servants of the Sultan of Zinder left this morning,
+having brought them thus far, to return. I gave them a little present of
+wad� and rings.
+
+Gurai is somewhat smaller than Zinder, having a population of perhaps
+seven thousand souls. I have overrated the population of Zinder: that
+city, probably, does not contain more than ten thousand souls, if so
+many. On emerging from the Saharan Desert, where we had been accustomed
+to bestow the name of town upon great scattered villages, with a few
+hundred inhabitants, Zinder appeared to me quite a capital city. The
+town of Gurai is scattered about on several hills, and down their
+slopes. These hills are bare of trees and vegetation.
+
+There is a dry ditch surrounding the town. It answers the purpose of a
+fortification, especially as its effect is aided by a thickset hedge. At
+some places this hedge is growing; at others, it consists merely of
+branches cut from various trees, but rendered almost impenetrable by
+being made broad and thick. These defences are quite effectual in the
+kind of wars carried on in these regions.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIX.
+
+Fezzanee Traders--Sultan in want of Medicine--The Stud--Letters--Yusuf's
+Conduct--Architecture--Fragment of the History of Minyo--Politics
+of Zinder--Bornouese Fish--Visits--Two Routes--Dancing by
+Moonlight--Richness--Fires--Information on Boushi and Adamaua--The
+Yamyam--Liver Complaints--A Girl's Game--Desert Country--Gift Camel--Few
+Living Creatures--Village of Gusumana--Environs--The Doom
+Fruit--Brothers of Sultan of Sakkatou--Stupid Kadi--Showing off--Hot
+Weather--[Final Note--Death of Mr. Richardson.]
+
+
+I had visits yesterday from all the Fezzanee traders. These people, as
+at Zinder, and everywhere at Soudan, sell their goods at a high price to
+the Sultan, and then are obliged to wait six or seven months for their
+money, eating up all their profits. No wonder the poor fellows rarely
+get rich, but remain, on the contrary, always miserably poor. The same
+is the case throughout all Soudan. To-day my tent was thronged with
+visitors, before whom I am obliged to exhibit myself, or show my
+curiosities. Among others, I had a visit from some people who came from
+Gobter, distant four hours south, on purpose to see me; and, moreover,
+had a call from some ladies nearly related to the Sultan. They all
+wanted medicine, but for what they could not tell; so I gave them each a
+taste of Epsom. This made them relish a bit of sugar, which I distribute
+to them afterwards, and which appeased their grimaces and disgust. I am
+pestered to death for medicines, and have visitors without number.
+
+The Sultan sent word this morning to know if I had anything to sell, any
+fine things from the Christian countries, for he wished to buy them. Our
+people returned for answer that I was not a merchant, but belonged to
+the Queen. He then begged me to give him a small quantity of my
+medicines, for he had heard I had most wonderful drugs;--would I favour
+him with some of every kind, that he might be prepared for all possible
+complaints which might attack him hereafter, when I was gone? For the
+present he is suffering from pains in all his joints; and requests, in
+the first place, to be relieved from them. Compliance with these demands
+was, of course, necessary. I therefore packed up small quantities of
+emetics, acetate of lead, worm-powders, and Epsom, and also a little
+camphor, and a little sticking-plaster, with a small bottle of Eau de
+Cologne. With these I went to pay my respects. We found the Sultan in a
+small private apartment. He was in an inquisitive mood, and began by
+asking me all manner of questions, the subjects ranging from the affairs
+of kings and princes down to the handkerchief round my neck. I should
+observe that the Sultan requested Yusuf to taste the medicines before he
+delivered them up to him, to see that there was no blood in them. So he
+tasted the salts and the jalap; but I told him that the acetate of lead
+was poison, and we wrote _sem_ upon all the packets. It surprised him
+that we should administer poison to the eyes.
+
+After the interview his servants showed me his horses. They were but
+ill-formed animals, some heavily built, and others miserable-looking
+creatures. Yet these are the pick of the whole country, and some have
+been lately brought from Sakkatou, as the best which could be exported
+from that quarter.
+
+In the afternoon another slave of Haj Beshir arrived from Zinder,
+seeking for me. He had brought a letter, but had orders if he did not
+find me to return it to Kuka; so that I shall be without news until my
+arrival. He, however, just knows that a caravan came from Mourzuk in
+thirty-nine days, bringing this letter, which was forwarded to me. It
+comes direct from Tripoli. There are three letters for me!
+
+This evening my new interpreter came with a long trumped-up story, as to
+what the Sultan had said respecting my quarrel with Yusuf. His highness
+was represented to have expressed a strong desire that we might be
+reconciled before we arrived at Kuka. I cannot tell whether this be true
+or false. Probably they have attempted to get the Sultan to speak to me
+about Yusuf. This is always the case. These people do you as much injury
+as they please on the road, and when they are near a place which makes
+them afraid, they get a number of people to come and persuade you to say
+that they are very good fellows. It is quite clear that Yusuf has stolen
+several things on the road. The last thing missed is a large quantity of
+cloves. It is difficult to know how to act on these occasions.
+
+_17th._--I took Epsom, and feel better.
+
+The architectural ornaments of the palace of Gurai resemble those of the
+houses of Gh�t. The walls are covered with little recesses, of various
+shapes; the moulding consists of a series of lozenges; the pillars by
+which the ceiling is supported are of immense thickness. In these large
+halls, on a level with the ground, there are always raised seats of
+earth, on which are spread carpets, and lion and leopard skins.
+
+By the way, this country seems clear of animals. They are all either
+hunted down, or driven into thicker shades and forests.
+
+All these provinces have their histories preserved traditionally. The
+father of the present Sultan of Gurai, named Ibrahim, was a most
+determined fellow. He slew no less than seven sultans appointed to take
+his place. The Sheikh, in the first instance, sent a large army to
+dispossess him. Before superior forces he retired to a mountain, where
+he was unattackable. The new Sultan was installed, and the troops of
+Bornou returned to Kuka. As soon as they were gone, Ibrahim descended
+the mountains with his slaves, and fell upon the new prince, butchering
+him and his people. Then he wrote to Kuka: "I am under God and you." The
+Sheikh, enraged at this conduct, sent another force against him, as
+before. Ibrahim once more retired to his stronghold, and after the
+Bornou forces had returned to Kuka, again descended from his mountain,
+and butchered the new prince as before. And this he repeated seven
+times, so that at last the Sheikh, seeing the impossibility of
+continuing the war with such a vassal, allowed him to have quiet
+possession of the province of Minyo. His son Goso, now sultan, is also a
+very spirited fellow; but he is on good terms with the Sheikh, and
+observed to me, "What Kuka (the Sheikh) does, I do; as what Stamboul
+does, so does Tripoli." Goso, or Gausau, is certainly a very polite
+prince, and a very accomplished man. To him the Sultan of Zinder is a
+mere slave.
+
+There is some news about the Sultan of Zinder. It appears that Sarkee
+Ibrahim feels himself weak, and unable to conduct the government of the
+province prosperously, i.e. "to go on razzia;" so he wrote for his
+brother to come and undertake the command of the slave-hunts. The
+brother spoke to the Sheikh, who said "Go." But the brother said, "No, I
+will not go, unless you will give me the province to govern." The Sheikh
+replied, "Your brother will give you some town." "No," was the answer;
+"I will not go unless you will give me the whole province." This is now
+the great news in Zinder and Gurai, and was carried to the former place
+by two horsemen, who galloped from Kuka to Zinder in six days.
+
+I now write the names of the sultans of the province in Arabic, before
+them, with a black-lead pencil. This greatly astonishes them: first,
+that I am able to write their names and that of the countries which they
+govern; and secondly, with a black-lead pencil, which they call wood.
+
+_Names of several sorts of Fish (Buni) in Bornou._
+
+Yogari, a large flat fish, four or five feet long, and as many broad.
+
+Kagwi, a fish like a cod or ling.
+
+Haik, one foot and a half long, three or four inches broad.
+
+Kamudee, one foot and a half long, thick as the lower arm, and quite
+black.
+
+Karwa and Kagia, species of small plaice.
+
+Labun, of the size of a locust.
+
+Kadikadi, large thick eel.
+
+The Sultan is very anxious about my personal history, and hearing that I
+had my wife in Tripoli, inquired if I intended to take another in this
+country.
+
+I have had numberless visits all day long. The people display an intense
+curiosity to see the Christian, and would stop here for ever, gazing
+before my tent. Four sisters of the Sultan gave me a call. I taught them
+the use of pins, and pinned three of them together, which produced great
+merriment amongst the people. A Fellatah horse-dealer gave me two routes
+to-day; one from this (Gurai) to Sakkatou, and another from Sakkatou
+towards the west.[22]
+
+ [22] See Appendix.
+
+A quarrel has sprung up between the Kashalla and Sa�d, Haj Beshir's
+slave, about the road we should take from this to Kuka. The
+north-eastern, or direct east, is the shortest, but there are three days
+without habitations: this is Sa�d's road. The south-eastern is the
+longer route, and is the Kashalla's, but there are people every day. The
+latter is probably the better route for me. It is decided that we leave
+the day after to-morrow.
+
+This evening the Sultan sent me a camel, as a present. Not having
+experienced the difficulty of riding a horse, I had sold all my camels.
+The gift camel is a very good one.
+
+When the moon rises, about an hour after dark, the beating of the drums
+is heard, calling the people to assemble for the dancing--young men and
+maidens. In ten minutes, some hundred people are collected. The dancing
+then commences in full and grand style. This evening I went out to see
+the performance, and found it the most animating I had yet seen in
+Africa. The young men and maidens separated into parties, the maidens
+near the drummers, and the young men at a distance of some twenty paces
+around them. A circle is then formed. The ladies here choose their own
+partners, instead of waiting to be chosen. A maiden skips up awkwardly
+to the drummer, then glides off to the side of the young men, and
+touches the gentleman with whom she wishes to dance, and returns. The
+young man does not immediately accept, for two or three minutes elapse
+after he has been touched ere he starts off to join the lady who has
+honoured him in the presence of a hundred admiring or jealous
+spectators. They join, turning first face to face, then back to back,
+then face to the drummers, in the most lively style. The young men are
+dressed in their tobes, and throw them up and round so as to produce a
+moving circle, as women might do with their petticoats; but not moving
+their bodies so much as their circling tobes: this is the grand grace of
+the dance. Then there are parties of men and women dancing together; but
+the men with men, and women with women. The women trip up awkwardly, but
+modestly, to where the men are placed, and then fall back; upon which
+the men pursue them violently, overtaking them before they get to their
+places, and throwing their tobes around them: but there is nothing
+indelicate in all this. On the contrary, the whole dance is quite a
+pattern of modesty to the Europeans, the Arabs, and the Moors,--to these
+latter especially, whose dance, as introduced here, is of the most
+lascivious and beastly description. This entertainment takes place every
+night; it is the great solace and delight of the people: they have no
+other amusement. They are all passionately fond of the drum, which
+certainly makes a great noise, and stirs them up to exhibit their
+dancing powers.
+
+The whole population have suddenly become sick, and all want Epsom
+salts: a camel-load would not suffice. One old fellow wants a medicine
+to enable him to get children. I tell him he is now old, and must be
+satisfied with the strength God has given him in his past life.
+
+The Sultan has made presents to our people,--to the Kashalla, Yusuf, and
+others.
+
+_18th._--I was so beset with people that I could not use my thermometer
+this morning. The weather is fresh, with the wind from the north-east. I
+am obliged to give tea as medicine: everybody now pretends to be sick,
+from the Sultan to the meanest slave.
+
+In all these villages the people burn up the stubble in the evening,
+just outside the village, on the dung-heaps. They like to see the flame
+which whirls up from the dirty hay or straw; but, of course, they make
+their fire at some distance, to prevent its catching their huts. The
+mortar and pestle have disappeared: the people use here, for grinding
+their grain, two stones, as in some places on the north coast.
+
+The insects are beginning their depredations upon me, biting me all
+over, and raising on my flesh small ulcers.
+
+I have obtained from Nammadina, the Fellatah horse-dealer, a detailed
+account of the route to Yola, the capital of Adamaua, passing through
+Boushi.
+
+The Moors represent the latter place to be like Mourzuk and Tripoli; but
+they say the greater part of the inhabitants of Adamaua are infidels or
+pagans. The rulers are, however, Fellatahs, and therefore Muslims.
+Adamaua is a rocky country: a small quantity of grain is found here,
+with abundance of sheep, oxen, horses, goats, fish, samen, honey, and
+onions. The rivers of Adamaua have always some water in them.
+
+In the territory of Boushi will be found the celebrated name of Yamyam,
+where the Moorish and Arab merchants place the residence of the Ben-Adam
+eaters, or cannibals. I was greatly amused to hear my Fellatah informant
+most strenuously deny this calumny on the African race; he asserted that
+he had been in the country, and never had seen anything of this sort.
+The Moors as boldly affirmed that such cannibals exist, although they
+were obliged to confess they never saw the people of Adamaua or Yakoba
+(name of the sultan) eat human flesh. The whole story of the Yamyam is
+of the remotest antiquity, and has come down to us with many
+embellishments; but, if once true of the people hereabouts, it can no
+longer be authenticated by present facts, for as I have said, the Moors
+themselves represent Boushi to be like Tripoli.
+
+The people from Fezzan and Tripoli, the traders and all, complain of the
+liver complaint; most of them have been ten or fifteen years in this
+country, travelling through Bornou and Soudan. I gave them small doses
+of calomel. All people at this season, blacks and strangers from the
+north, are full of rheumatism, which they describe by saying they have
+pains in all their joints and all their limbs. The presence of a
+Christian having medicines heightens and multiplies these diseases;
+there is, however, in reality, a good deal of rheumatism, arising from
+the cold winds of the north-east.
+
+This evening we had again our drummers and the dancers, as on every
+preceding night. The girls have a laughable game amongst themselves, the
+boys, however, sometimes joining--that of throwing one another up and
+forwards by the arm-pits; the girl thus thrown forwards is expected, if
+she play her part well, to light firmly on her feet. If not, she rolls
+about and over, and the accidents that then occur are probably
+considered a great part of the amusement.
+
+_19th._--We were hurried off this morning early by the Kashalla, and I
+had no time to go and take leave of the Sultan. The weather is fresh. I
+mounted my gift camel; the second grand gift from the princes of Africa.
+We made a long day, from morning till after dark, about ten hours,
+through an undulating country. Some of the hollows were very deep, and
+enclosed stagnant reedy pools, of generally bad water, remaining from
+the past rains. For the first three or four hours of this march we had a
+scattered forest of dwarfish trees, mostly dwarf tholukhs. These are
+succeeded by small forests of the doom-palms, lining the pools and
+swamps in the valleys, and looking very fresh and pretty. I was
+astonished to see so few animals; indeed, we only observed now and then
+a small bird. What was the more strange, no water-fowl was seen in the
+pools.
+
+But the country to-day was all desert--no grain cultivating, which
+perhaps may account for the absence of birds and fowls. Sa�d prevailed
+over the Kashalla, and we have taken the desert route, being five days
+nearer. There are, besides, but few trees, comparatively, which makes it
+easier to transport the boat.
+
+The Kashalla vexed me very much by taking my camel to transport a
+portion of baggage, his own camel knocking up. At first I refused to go
+on, but on the promise that he would get a bullock at the nearest place
+I mounted upon the luggage. Fortunately, my gift camel is a good one,
+not like the horse, and can carry a large weight. I cannot grumble much,
+as the Sheikh's camels are transporting many of my private things.
+Nevertheless you must show a stern resistance to all these liberties,
+otherwise you will never be able to get through Africa.
+
+No tent was pitched, but I made myself comfortable by drinking the
+remainder of a bottle of port wine, which I began yesterday. I felt a
+little queer, and fancied I had injured myself by drinking so much milk;
+so I took to a bottle of port wine, and finished it in three times. I
+have felt much better since. I could very well drink a bottle a-day, and
+believe I should be much stronger for it. However, such wine should be
+kept for convalescence after fever. I have still a bottle, and some
+Cyprus wine--very good wine.
+
+_20th._--We started as soon as the day broke and the sun showed himself,
+and made five hours south-east over country the same as yesterday. But
+the forests of doom-palms were larger and thicker, and valleys also were
+more extensive. What is strange, no wild animals show themselves, not
+even in these sedgy, reedy swamps. I could only see scattered on the
+ground the feathers of the guinea-fowl. One or two black-and-white crows
+were noticed. Our people say that all the crows are of this colour in
+Bornou. In Ashen there are both species, the black, and the
+black-and-white. Our people also tell us, that on the other route, which
+the Kashalla wished to travel, there are numbers of elephants, and much
+water. Here is water enough in the rainy season for all such animals. We
+had still the tholukh, as well as the doom, and a tree like a large
+sea-shore plant cropped by the camels.
+
+We saw no ghaseb cultivation, or any sort of grain, till we arrived at
+Gusumana, where we found wheat, cotton, and pepper in the gardens. The
+village of Gusumana is situated on a hill, overlooking a steep broad
+valley, full of the doom-palm. This village has therefore its houses
+constructed partly with the branches and trunks of this tree, which
+serve very well. I am housed in a most comfortable little hut made of
+this material, and nicely thatched; the door is composed of some thin
+strips of the leaves of the palm, which, as you enter, give way, and
+then return to their place, just as would a curtain. In this way the air
+always plays freely into the hut, murmuring sometimes between these
+fragments of leaves.
+
+I have felt much less fatigue since I mounted the camel, although I have
+made the longest day upon it that has been made since we left Zinder. I
+recommend to all travellers the camel in the desert, or in Soudan. I
+believe the ill-health of the former expedition was much increased by
+always riding horses. Thank God, my strength still keeps up.
+
+Taking Gusumana as a centre, we have around it several towns and
+villages. Thisi, one hour west; Gajemmi, one long day north-west; Parum,
+one hour east-south-east; Kadellebua, two hours south-west; Garua, one
+hour east; Gogora, two hours east; and, finally, in our road, Kanggarua,
+two days south-east. The town of Gajemmi is inhabited by the tribe of
+Duggera; but the Ka�d of this village pretends they are not Tuaricks. He
+means, probably, not the same as the Tuaricks of Ashen. It is quite
+clear that these Daggera inhabit all the northern line of Bornou, from
+Zinder to Kuka; skirting, in fact, all the left of our route. They join
+the Damerghou territory, and thus extend from that province west to
+Kanem, and the route of Bornou east. The Tuaricks are ever located on
+the confines of the desert. Here they roam free, and rob and plunder
+where they have opportunity, or when the princes of Bornou and Soudan
+cannot check them.
+
+Our people gnaw the doom fruit, but it is just like gnawing the bark of
+a tree, slightly flavoured with some aroma. They begin to eat them from
+childhood, and so keep on, as the gour-nuts are chewed by children; and
+so the taste is sucked in with their mother's milk. The gour-nut,
+however, is something, whilst the doom fruit is mere wood. The tree,
+nevertheless, is green, and in waving forests delightfully relieves this
+hot, burning, African landscape.
+
+The portion of the caravan consisting of bullocks is always much later
+than the rest; to-day they were four hours after us. I consider that the
+hours we now go are at least two and a-half or three English miles in
+length, as we advance at a speed quite equal to a horse walking at a
+good pace; nay, I might say, some hours we make three and a-half English
+miles.
+
+The following are the names of the brothers of the Sultan of Sakkatou,
+obtained from my Fellatah informant of Gurai. A difference of
+pronunciation will be observed in the Arab names, as they are
+transmitted through the Fellatah language. Aliu (for Ali), name of the
+Sultan himself and one of his brothers; Mallaidi; Amadu (Ahmed), Omeru
+(Omer, two of this name), Mahammedu (Mahammed), Mogari; Amadu Bedai;
+Alhattu; Moho; Isa (two of this name); Amadu el-Fai; Musa;
+Abd-el-Kaderi, and Abd-el-Walli. These are the names of all the brothers
+which he has heard. The first minister is called Galladima. The Kadi is
+El-Hali el-Haj; Inna is the generalissimo; Mohammed Wuddeggen, Muddebri
+Ali, Bu Beker, Manuri, and Gudundi, are names of other grandees and
+generals. The horse-dealer speaks of them with great familiarity, for he
+sells to them all. His own country is called Kabi, situated to the
+south-west of Sakkatou. He gave me the particulars of the route.[23]
+
+ [23] See Appendix.
+
+_21st._--This morning the weather was cool, the thermometer standing at
+56�, with a fresh wind. We had a visit early from the Kadi. I asked him
+why he did not plant date-trees in the fine valley under the village. He
+replied, "From whence shall I procure them?" I answered, "From Tungari
+(a place west, three days distant)." At this he looked very stupid.
+These Minyo negroes have no idea of improving their condition. His reply
+may serve for all the country hereabouts.
+
+Minyo and its large province is called by its aboriginal names Manga. It
+extends south-east to a river, on the other side of which begins Bornou
+Proper. But the people of Manga speak the same language as the
+Bornouese. Zinder belongs to the circle of Soudan, and its province is
+called Damagram.
+
+Mohammed, my interpreter, pretends he saw elephants to-day at a
+considerable distance, looking like black trees. Probably to-morrow we
+may fall in with some animals worth seeing. I observed two or three
+swallows, the first this year. We stop here to-day to rest. The animals
+are knocked up, and the Kashalla has lost a horse.
+
+It is from this Manga province that many of the villages of Damerghou
+are populated. Formerly the Tuaricks of that province made razzias on
+these out-lying provinces, with the produce of which they increased the
+number of their subjects.
+
+An European must needs show off in this country. Yesterday I was obliged
+to exhibit to all the village,--about a hundred people,--and to-day to
+as many more. It is very fortunate if you are not detestably ugly, and
+can pass muster; for if you are, you will have all sorts of faces made
+at you; and, besides, you will be considered to represent a whole people
+as an ugly race. I walked round the village. There may be two hundred
+huts, and about six hundred inhabitants. The sun burns at four P.M. most
+fiercely. I begin to be afraid of it; but the days are uncertain, and
+sometimes the weather is quite chilly.
+
+According to my interpreter, Mohammed Ben Ahmed Bu Saad, there is no
+money in Bornou, and the Sheikh could never obtain a strong army. We
+certainly find considerable difficulty all along to get an extra camel
+or bullock, and those to be obtained are very bad ones. The people
+cultivate very little, and have no resources to fall back on. They have
+just a little grain for themselves. The Sheikh of this place is a
+respectable man, and has been very civil to me. He, however, requires
+from me a medicine to procure him a good reception wherever he goes. He
+says he is frequently called to Minyo and other large places, and he
+wants a medicine to procure him the smiles, good-will, and friendship of
+all the people whom he meets. Especially he wishes always to have the
+favour of the Sultan. I had numbers of other patients all day; my Epsom
+is fast going. Thermometer at sunset, 82�; weather very troublesome
+to-day, blowing hot and cold with the same breath.[24]
+
+ [24] Here ends Mr. Richardson's journal, with words which
+      already hint the cause of the lamentable accident that
+      speedily followed. Spring was advancing with its uncertain
+      temperature in Central Africa. The thermometer varied
+      nearly thirty degrees between the morning and afternoon.
+      Doubtless, however, the unusual fatigue of horse-exercise
+      during the days that succeeded the departure from Zinder
+      may have contributed its share in breaking down Mr.
+      Richardson's strength. Something of a desponding tone may
+      be observed in the journal for many pages; but we do not
+      find that there was any cessation of industry. In addition
+      to what is found in the regular diary, a good many notes
+      were left written in pencil. Among the principal of them
+      are the following:--
+
+      "In Kanem, north of Bornou, it rains a month earlier in the
+      season than in that province; in Bornou, one month earlier
+      than in Kanou; in Kanou, one month earlier than at Niffee.
+      The heat of to-day, under a thatch hut, at one P.M., same
+      as yesterday, 96�. Sugar dissolved into a wash is a common
+      remedy in Soudan and Bornou for bad eyes; but, perhaps, it
+      is made an excuse for getting sugar from us."
+
+      "In the evening we marched two hours and a-half in an
+      E.S.E. direction. We were met by the Sheikh of the place,
+      with some fifteen horse, and a mounted drummer. No wild
+      animals are seen, on account of the fires in the desert
+      (made, however, by the people on purpose to catch them). No
+      water-fowls swim in the pools, probably because there is no
+      cultivation. But this is the real country of the elephants.
+      I saw the dung some two days before, and could not make out
+      what it was. These days the dung was more abundant, and the
+      people told me what it was. The people about here do not
+      hurt them, their spears being useless against the hide of
+      this great quadruped; the hunters, however, entangle the
+      smaller animals--gazelles, &c.--by means of a great wheel
+      made of cane. The animals put their feet in the middle,
+      which gives in, and holds them, whilst the top is secured
+      by strong cords."
+
+      "Mandemnia.
+
+      "Kangarwar, half the size of Zinder. First day, evening
+      march, seven hours, pitched in open country; course, S.E.
+      Second day, pitched in open country; course, E. Third day,
+      six hours, E.N.E. Fourth day, half-an-hour's morning march.
+      Mandemnia village people occupied in making salt."
+
+      I believe Mr. Richardson was sometimes in the habit of
+      jotting down observations in this way on loose pieces of
+      paper previous to inserting them in his journal, which he
+      evidently wrote in great part with a view to its being sent
+      to the press, though at others he breaks away into a series
+      of disconnected memoranda. We have no further account of
+      what happened between the 21st of February and the 4th of
+      March, than what is contained in the letter written by Dr.
+      Barth, Mr. Richardson's fellow-traveller, so often
+      mentioned in the foregoing pages (see Preface).--ED.
+
+
+
+
+APPENDIX.
+
+
+LIST OF ROUTES, &c.
+
+
+_Route from Zinder to Kanou._
+
+From Zinder, starting S.S.E., Kankandi, one hour.
+
+Baban Tabki, a quarter of an hour.
+
+Dunai, four hours: large place, or village.
+
+Guna, one hour: large place.
+
+Karaiai, four hours: large village.
+
+Washa, seven hours: town and residence of a sultan.
+
+Kakibarai, three hours. This place consists of three villages; one upon
+the rocky hills, one on the slope, and one under the rocks. At Washa
+there are also rocks; the rest of the route is flat. From Washa to
+Kakibarai there is a most copious supply of water.
+
+Gordo, ten hours: large village.
+
+Eshkakato, two hours: large village.
+
+Tumbi, two hours: town and residence of a sultan. Omitting one place,
+the name of which was not remembered, then follows:
+
+Maidabara, one hour.
+
+Gumel, two hours: town and residence of a sultan.
+
+Tukkenzuru, one hour.
+
+Bermanaua, one hour: large village.
+
+Elladi, one hour. Here terminates the territory of Bornou.
+
+Garki, two hours: a very populous place, and said to be the residence of
+seven sultans (or governors). Here begins the territory of the
+Fellatahs.
+
+Dago, three hours.
+
+Kuka Maifurra, two hours.
+
+Kuka Mairua, one hour and a half.
+
+Gubbasaua, two hours.
+
+Souk (name not remembered), two hours.
+
+Gaizaua, two hours: a large place.
+
+Sharo, one hour. Here are three running streams, each separated by about
+a quarter of an hour's ride.
+
+Zango, a quarter of an hour. From Sharo to Kanou there are no less than
+thirty small villages.
+
+Kanou, a quarter of an hour. The whole of the route, with the exception
+of the rocks of Washa and Kakibarai, is flat, and trees are scattered
+along all the road. From Gumel to Dogo there is a forest, and from
+Kakibarai to Gordo the country is covered with the doom-palm. In all the
+towns and villages above enumerated is found a good supply of water. The
+portion of Bornouese territory is sandy, and that of the Fellatah's good
+earthy soil.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_Routes from Zinder to Kuka: first route, vi� Minyo._
+
+From Zinder to
+
+Zarmu, half a day; village. (The half day is from four to five hours.)
+
+Ginnewa, half a day; village.
+
+Majia, seven hours; village.
+
+Minyo, half a day; town and residence of a sultan of considerable power
+and influence.
+
+Alkammaram, seven hours; well.
+
+Kadalafua, seven hours; large village.
+
+Birribirchi, seven hours; well.
+
+Kagarwa, half a day; large village.
+
+Karragu-fillai, three hours.
+
+Gurrutua, half a day; town, and residence of a sultan.
+
+Zangairi, name of a river and a village, three hours. Here is a large
+river, which, however, is dry in summer. Most of these rivers are dry
+during the two or three hot months.
+
+Miggeba, four hours; a village.
+
+Zaggatur, half a day; a village.
+
+Bua, four hours; a village.
+
+Bagusu, half a day; a village.
+
+Kuka, four hours; town.
+
+This route is usually reckoned at fifteen days' journey: trees are
+abundant on all the route, especially the doom-palm. There are, besides,
+many streams of water, on the banks of which are seen animals of every
+description.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_Second Route, vi� Mashena._
+
+Miria, three hours; town, and residence of a sultan. Here is a small
+lake, where palateable fish are caught. Abundance of corn is also found
+here.
+
+Gushi, eight hours; town, and residence of a sultan.
+
+Gijemu, three hours; village.
+
+Zubaggeru, eight hours; large village.
+
+Funokam, three hours; village.
+
+Mashena, three hours; town, and residence of a sultan.
+
+Bundi, half a day; town, and residence of a sultan.
+
+Karimairi, three hours; town, and residence of a sultan.
+
+Zorikulo, eight hours; village.
+
+Kafi, three hours; village.
+
+Ganaua, half a day; village.
+
+Wadi, half a day; village.
+
+Gurrutua, eight hours; village.
+
+Miggeba, half a day; village. A river, in which water is found three
+feet deep during the summer.
+
+Fataganna, three hours; village.
+
+Dumrua, half a day; village.
+
+Shilaua, half a day; a village.
+
+Basher, half a day; a village.
+
+Kuka, three hours.
+
+This route abounds with trees, water, fruit, corn, and many animals.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_Route from Gumel to Kuka._
+
+From Gumel to
+
+Shafoa, half a day; large village.
+
+Taganama, half a day; large town, and residence of a sultan.
+
+Mashena, six hours; town, residence of a sultan.
+
+Gumsi, seven hours; large village.
+
+Zirku-Kura, ten hours; running water and wells.
+
+Enki-Kura (i.e. large water), twelve hours; a large lake, stagnant,
+having no communication with other water.
+
+Lauwanri, ten hours; large village.
+
+Diru, ten hours; large village.
+
+Chilumwa, ten hours; large village.
+
+Burburwa, twelve hours; a large walled town, and what is called
+_Biad-es-souk_, i.e. where a market is held.
+
+Daboko, twelve hours; small village, near a large river.
+
+Limbua, ten hours: this place consists of fifty or sixty little
+villages.
+
+Binaua, eight hours, comprising many small villages.
+
+Kamis-Ali, five hours, or place where a market is held.
+
+Basher, eight hours; village.
+
+Kuka, four hours.[25]
+
+ [25] In the former route, Basher is given as only three hours
+      from Kuka. In the next route, Bagusu is made eight hours
+      from Kuka, whilst a little back we have it set down at only
+      half that distance. These discrepancies, of course, set
+      geographers on their guard against placing any absolute
+      dependence on native reports. I remember once questioning
+      the inhabitants of a village in Egypt about the distance of
+      a particular place. One said, five or six hours; others
+      said, a short day; and others, a long day. However, by
+      comparison of various statements, perhaps something like
+      the truth may be reached.--ED.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_Route from Kanou to Kuka._
+
+From Kanou to
+
+Gaizaua, six hours; a large place.
+
+Kuka-Mairua, eight hours.
+
+Gerki, nine hours.
+
+Gumel, half a day; town, residence of a sultan.
+
+Ungua-Kalu, eight hours: this place includes two villages.
+
+Gullairi, ten hours; large village, or town without walls.
+
+Mashena, half a day; town, and residence of a sultan.
+
+Bundi, half a day; town, and residence of a sultan.
+
+Karremeri, four hours; a town, three times as large as Zinder.
+
+Zolikulo, eleven hours; village.
+
+Kafi, eight hours; village.
+
+Ganaua, nine hours; village.
+
+Dellella, half a day; village.
+
+Kashimwa, ten hours; large place, and a river.
+
+Miggeba, eight hours; village.
+
+Kassachia, five hours; villages: large river, dry in summer.
+
+Ura, eight hours; village.
+
+Kinchakusko, ten hours; village.
+
+Bagusu, ten hours.
+
+Kuka, eight hours.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_Route from Kuka to Mourzuk._
+
+From Kuka, north, to
+
+Urutua, half a day; small village.
+
+Karillewa, half a day; a well.
+
+Yau, half a day; walled town, large river.
+
+Burwa, twelve hours; walled town.
+
+Wuddi, twelve hours; stream, running into the Tchad (great lake).
+
+Gaigomai, four hours; small villages and rivers.
+
+Bir-Hamam, twelve hours; well.
+
+Kufai, nine hours; one tree; resting-place, formerly a well.
+
+Kibbu, fifteen hours; a well.
+
+Bel-Kashefferri, three days, and arrive the fourth day after six hours.
+
+Agdem, one day and a-half; well, large rocks and sandhills.
+
+Dubbula, two days; well, large rocks and sandhills.
+
+Zau, one day and a-half; well, large sandhills.
+
+Musguatin, seven hours; well, rocks.
+
+Bilma, four hours; large walled town.
+
+Shummenduro, eleven hours; town upon the rocks.
+
+Dirku, two hours; walled town, and residence of the Sultan of the
+Tibboos (capital).
+
+Ashennema, half a day; village and rocks.
+
+Amchumma, ten hours; village and rocks.
+
+Anai, two hours; village and rocks.
+
+Yuguba, twelve hours; a well.
+
+Sigdem, twelve hours; well and rocks.
+
+Maffarus, one day and a half; well.
+
+Lahmer, one day and a half; well and rocks.
+
+War, three days; well, and mountains of great height and magnitude.
+
+Meshru, two days; well and rocks.
+
+Oma, twelve hours. Here the traveller at length sees a forest of
+date-palms; and the first district of Fezzan begins.
+
+Tajerrhi, eleven hours; walled town.
+
+Kazraua, twelve hours; village.
+
+Mudrusai, half a day; village.
+
+Gatron, two hours; village.
+
+Hafari, twelve hours; well and date-palms.
+
+Mustutai, fifteen hours; well and date-palms.
+
+Bithan, twelve hours; village.
+
+Sidi Beshir, half a day; village.
+
+Mourzuk, three hours.
+
+_Obs._--All the Tibboo districts, like those of Fezzan, have forests of
+date-palms. Between Maffarus and Oma there is no herbage during seven
+days. The greatest quantity of sand in this route is found between Agdem
+and Zau.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_Route from Kuka, to Mandara._
+
+From Kuka, south, to
+
+Manguno, nine hours; a large town.
+
+Dikua, half a day; a walled town, and residence of a sultan.
+
+Gasa, ten hours; a village.
+
+Quondega, seven hours; a large village.
+
+Gamergu, five hours; a large village.
+
+Karaua, twelve hours; first country of Mandara, of great height.
+
+Izgai, four hours; village and rocks.
+
+Dulo, four hours; villages and rocks.
+
+Mora, three hours; a walled city, and capital of Mandara, a small city,
+containing not more than ten thousand souls. The Sultan has five hundred
+cavalry and one thousand eunuchs. These poor devils are made here. The
+Kerdies or pagans upon the neighbouring mountains are called Matacum.
+These mountains are said to be of considerable altitude.
+
+According to Omer Wardi there is no difficulty in going to Muzgu, south
+of Mandara, and seat of the nearest pagans.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_Route to Mandara from Kuka: Second Route, Eastern._
+
+TERRITORY OF BORNOU.
+
+From Kuka, south-east, to
+
+Gornu, half a-day; a walled town, larger than Zinder.
+
+Gulum, three hours; small village. Here is a river.
+
+Yaidi, four hours; large walled town.
+
+Martai, four hours; large walled town.
+
+Ala, three hours; large walled town.
+
+Diwa, eight hours; large walled town, and residence of a sultan. Here is
+a river.
+
+Abagai, two hours; small village.
+
+Kuddaigai, one hour; small village.
+
+Sokoma, one hour; a large walled town.
+
+Millehai, two hours; a small place.
+
+Magarta, three hours; a large walled town.
+
+Dellehai, half a day; a large place.
+
+TERRITORY OF MANDARA.
+
+Muddebai, a long day; a large walled town.
+
+Dulo, eight hours; a large walled town.
+
+Mandara, three hours; a city about the size of Mourzuk.
+
+A day's journey from Mandara is sufficient to make a razzia of slaves.
+Muzgu, a great Kerdi country, is three days' journey from Mandara.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_Route from Kanou to Sakkatou._
+
+From Kanou:
+
+Dal, three hours; several small villages, where tobes are dyed with
+indigo.
+
+Zalia (Zaria?), a walled town, containing some 20 or 30,000 souls, and
+residence of a sultan; one long day.
+
+Lariski, half a day; a small village.
+
+Gaia, eight hours; a large walled town, and residence of a sultan.
+
+Kafela, half a day; small village.
+
+Yakuba, five hours; a walled town, and residence of a sultan.
+
+Mukubi, three hours; a small town on the banks of a river, in which
+there is always water.
+
+Keskaua, half a day; a small village.
+
+Gala, eight hours; a walled town, and about the size of Zinder;
+residence of a sultan.
+
+Kusuri, one long day; a large walled town, and residence of a sultan. A
+river, having always water.
+
+Lokoui, one long day; a walled town, and residence of a sultan. The same
+river as at Kusuri.
+
+Sakkatou, eight hours. This journey is reckoned at twenty days.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_Route from Taghajeet to Tuat._
+
+From Taghajeet, on the northern frontiers of Aheer, to
+
+Asaiou, two days and a-half; water-station. (All the following names are
+water-stations, i.e. places where there are wells.)
+
+Logsur, three days and a-half; well: and so of the rest.
+
+Gharghar, three days; tents of wandering tribes of Tuaricks, principally
+Hagar and Maghatah.
+
+Yaizair, two days. From Gharghar to Tuat there are tents of Tuaricks
+along all this line of route.
+
+Aifak, one day.
+
+Tamaghaset, one day.
+
+Outur (or Utur), one day.
+
+Tairagin, one day.
+
+Tailak, two days.
+
+Ennimgal, three days.
+
+Tahalai-Oget, two days.
+
+Tisnu, two days.
+
+Minneat, two days.
+
+Tagajert, two days.
+
+Amasir, two days.
+
+Arak, two days.
+
+Tajmut, two days.
+
+Tegtamin, one day.
+
+Agmamar, two days.
+
+Loknaig, two days.
+
+Shab, two days.
+
+Hash-Lugwaira, one day.
+
+El-Gesser (Tuat), one day and a-half; a village.
+
+Ain-Salah, an hour or two.
+
+On this route there are no oases, no date-palms; the road lies through
+valleys and over plains, lined with rocky mountains, like those of Asben
+or Aheer. There is no region of sand, but now and then the earth assumes
+a sandy character. My informant is a Tuatee, who has travelled this
+route; in fact, no other persons but people of Tuat, unless Hagars and
+Maghatah, can do so in safety. I could not succeed in extracting more
+information from my informant. He was a mere barbarian, and pestered me,
+whilst writing the route, with demands for all sorts of things. Though a
+resident of the town of Tuat, he was in grain and mould a thorough
+Targhee bandit.
+
+
+THE DIFFERENT RACES IN KUKA.
+
+_Resident or Strangers._
+
+ 1. Shua (the first Arab settlers in Bornou).
+ 2. Arabs Bengazi.
+ 3. Arabs Misratah.
+ 4. Arabs and Moors of Aujilah; Mujabri, from Jalu, or Aujilah.
+ 5. Fezzanee, or people from Fezzan.
+ 6. Walad Suleiman, now domiciled in Kuka, and Wady Gazalahs.
+ 7. People from Tripoli; a very few.
+ 8. People from the west; a very few.
+
+
+_Belonging to the Sheikh._
+
+ 9. Bornouee, bulk of the population.
+10. Kanembu, north-east from Kuka.
+11. Qaiyam, around Kuka, within a few hours.
+12. Manga, west from Kuka.
+13. Baddi, west from Kuka.
+14. Kairi-Kairi, west from Kuka.
+15. Lari, west from Kuka.
+16. Gizzem, south-west from Kuka, twenty days.
+17. Gizzerai, near Gizzem.
+18. Engezer, south of Kuka, ten days.
+19. Kaiauri, south of Kuka, five days.
+20. Babur, south of Kuka, nine days.
+21. Figa, south of Kuka, fifteen days.
+22. Margi, south of Kuka, seven days.
+23. Kobchi, south of Kuka, seven days.
+24. Mulgwai, south of Kuka, ten days.
+25. Massafai, south of Kuka, fifteen days.
+26. Bogwai, south of Kuka, twenty days.[26]
+27. Umbum, south of Kuka, thirty days.[26]
+28. Fali, south of Kuka, thirty-five days.[26]
+29. Umbai, south of Kuka, twenty days.[26]
+30. Koua, south of Kuka, twenty-five days.[26]
+31. Butai, south of Kuka, thirty days.[26]
+32. Maudraui, south of Kuka, eight days.
+33. Begarmi, east of Kuka, twenty days.
+34. People of Logun, near Begarmi.
+35. People from Wada�; travellers.
+36. Sara, a province near Begarmi, with its own sultan.
+37. Fitri, a province belonging to Wada�. There is water in the lake of
+    Fitri. People of this province do not come to Kuka.
+
+ [26] These countries seem very far south, and yet are said
+      to be under the Sheikh. More information is required on
+      this point.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_Route from Tuat to Wadnoun._
+
+From Tuat, or from Ain-Salah, in Tuat, westward, to
+
+Timmemoun, a small oasis of Tuat, two days; date-palms, &c.
+
+Ourara (Urara), five days; an oasis of Tuat larger than Timmemoun.
+Between Timmemoun, and Ourara, date-palms and wells in abundance.
+
+Taffilelt, five days. Between Ourara and Taffilelt there are a number of
+small villages.
+
+Dra, nine days. From Tuat to Dra, passing through Taffilelt, the route
+is lined with forests of palms, and water everywhere abounds. Dra
+consists of some one hundred towns and villages.
+
+Weled Omer Ben Melouk, a tribe of Arabs, numbering some five thousand
+souls, and having maharees and horses. The whole tribe are notorious
+bandits. From Dra to the tents of this tribe there are some seven days'
+journey.
+
+Barraber, twenty days, consisting entirely of plains, with here and
+there wells. This is another tribe of Arabs, wandering in tents, and all
+bandits. They chiefly mount horses; they have, however, camels and
+flocks; the tribe consists of about two thousands souls.
+
+Tajakant, ten days; plains, with the mountains of Sous on the north. A
+tribe of pacific Arabs (i.e. not bandits), numbering about three
+thousand, having both horses and camels.
+
+Shurfa, or Weled Seba, three days; a tribe of Arabs, all Shereefs,
+numbering some four or five thousand, having many horses and camels, and
+flocks, and a few bullocks. Not bandits.
+
+Sakia Hamara, two days; a large walled, town, situated in a wady under a
+mountain: Shereefs and Marabouteen.
+
+Wad-Noun, three days.
+
+
+_Ain-Salah._
+
+South, from this point of departure we come to the
+
+Walad Bahammu, at a distance of one day; an oasis of two villages; all
+Tuatee bandits, riding maharees, wearing turkadees, like Tuaricks. One
+of these villages is called Akobli, known in the route to Timbuctoo.
+
+North, from Ain Salah are mentioned the
+
+Shellah, a tribe living in tents, speaking a Berber dialect; two days.
+My informant knows no more.
+
+East, from this point there is only desert towards Ghadamez.
+
+West, from the same, Timmemoun and Ourara.
+
+The person who gave me this information is one Haj Mohammed Ben Welid, a
+native of Ghadamez. Besides the above route from Tuat to Wadnoun, I am
+indebted to him for the Niffee route. Six years ago he was at Niffee,
+and saw there a large American vessel trading for slaves and other
+merchandise.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_Route from Kanou to Niffee._
+
+From Kanou, south, to
+
+Baibaishi, five days; walled town, and residence of a sultan; about the
+size of Zinder, situate amongst rocks: a river of continually running
+water.
+
+Zaria, two days; an immense walled town, of the size of Kanu: residence
+of a powerful Fullanee sultan.
+
+A wady, with continually running water, one day; no town.
+
+Agoi, three days; a number of small villages, situate under rocks of
+great height: a stream of running water.
+
+Agoi-Karama, one day; a small village, under lofty heights of rocks: a
+stream of running water.
+
+Kurmi-Wia (i.e. Difficult River), one day; a running river amidst dense
+forests; no town: here are immense bamboos, like ghaseb.
+
+Jangaru, three days, amidst forests of trees; a walled town, not quite
+so large as Zinder, having a Governor or Ka�d. Here the route divides
+into two branches: one west, going to Raba, in seven days; and the other
+south, to Gorji, one day, on the banks of the Niger; and on to Niffee.
+
+Gorji, one day, on the Niger; a large town.
+
+Ladai, two days; a large walled town, and residence of a sultan, called
+Masaba.
+
+Lori, five days and a-half; a large city, capital of Niffee: the Sultan
+a Fellatah, called Sita.
+
+From Jangaru, west, Akarri, one day; and from Akarri, seven days; then
+we come to Raba, passing through all sorts of country.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_Route from Kanou to Sakkatou._
+
+From Kanou, west, to
+
+Tofa, one day; small village.
+
+Kalenya, one day; small walled town.
+
+Sabonkashi, four days; a large walled town, and residence of a sultan.
+
+Kanya, three days; small village.
+
+Sabokafi, four days; a small village.
+
+Kogo, two days; a large walled town, situate between rocks; a small
+stream.
+
+Rafi, one day; a large walled town.
+
+
+_Zanfeirra._
+
+Kauralamoda, two days; a large walled city, and residence of a sultan: a
+running stream in winter.
+
+Gora, one day; a small village.
+
+Bakura, three days; a large walled town, and residence of a sultan:
+streams in rainy season.
+
+From Rafi to Bakura extends the province or kingdom called Zanfeierra,
+of which the capital is Bakura.
+
+Between Bakura and the city of Sakkatou, which comes next in order,
+after two days, there are a number of small villages. Before you reach
+Sakkatou from Kanou, distant an hour, is a large river, in which is
+found water during the dry season.
+
+On this route there are not many forests, but there is a good deal of
+grain and other cultivation, with very few rocks. The road is usually
+good, only now and then infested by the freebooters from Maradee. This
+route is travelled in from ten to twelve and fifteen days,--not above
+fifteen,--with anything like good travelling.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_Route from Zinder to Gomel._
+
+From Zinder, west, to
+
+Gogai, one day; a cluster of villages.
+
+Zerma, one day; a small village.
+
+Azbenaua, one hour; a small village.
+
+Kamai, one hour; a small village.
+
+Gomel, two hours; a large place, and residence of a sultan.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The Kashalla has been so good as to give me the names of the towns and
+villages between Kuka and the capital of Begarmi; viz, from Kuka to
+Gornu, one day, but a very short day, three or four hours, and all the
+days following the same, three or four hours only.
+
+Gornu, one day.
+
+Mardai, one day.
+
+Yaidi, one day.
+
+Digua, one day.
+
+Mozzenai, one day.
+
+Sabala, one day.
+
+Gala, one day.
+
+Mabadai, one day.
+
+Wilgi, one day.
+
+Abadai, one day.
+
+Ngelbai, one day.
+
+Kutheri, one day.
+
+Logonai, one day.
+
+River Chari, one day.
+
+Mudba, or Dar-Begarmi, one day: first town of Begarmi. All the countries
+hereabouts are called Dar.
+
+After Mudba, in Begarmi:
+
+Gaui, one day.
+
+Joadai, one day.
+
+Derejebany, one day.
+
+Abuger, one day.
+
+Mazanya, one day; capital of Begarmi.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_Gurai to Sakkatou._
+
+From Gurai, westward, to
+
+Tungari, four hours; large place.
+
+Bonai, three hours; large place.
+
+Mashena, four hours; large place; residence of a Sultan.
+
+Alamaiko, eight hours; large place.
+
+Kakori, one long day; small place.
+
+Murma, one long day; large place.
+
+Muddechi, half a day; large place.
+
+Hadayi, half a day; large place.
+
+Jafun, one long day; large place.
+
+Kadawauwa, half a day; large place.
+
+Gunfia, half a day; small place.
+
+Gammoji, half a day; small place.
+
+Gaia, one long day; large place.
+
+Birni-Kanou, nine hours; a great country.
+
+Kara�, half a day; large place.
+
+Dangani, half a day; large place.
+
+Kafi, one long day; large place.
+
+Waunakka, half a day; large place.
+
+Katturkoshi, half a day; very large place; river and rocky hills.
+
+Gaukisa, half a day; large place; river.
+
+Kauramoda, eight hours; large place; river.
+
+Pianchi, two hours; a sultan; river; large place.
+
+Kassara, half a day; small place; rivers.
+
+Gora, half a day; large place; a sultan.
+
+Bakura, half a day; a sultan; a river; large place.
+
+Wangara, one hour; large place; river.
+
+Danshaura, half a day; large place; the same river from Katturkoshi to
+this place.
+
+Sakkatou, half a day.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_Route from Sakkatou, westwards, to_
+
+Wurmu, one hour; large place.
+
+Kaiua, half a day; large place.
+
+Kalmalu, half a day; large place.
+
+Maranu, half a day; large place.
+
+Kussub-Buni, one long day; large place.
+
+Chinaka, half a day; large place.
+
+Dawakari, half a day; large place.
+
+Laka, half a day; large place.
+
+Gauasu, half a day; large place.
+
+Bodinga, half a day; large place.
+
+Sifaua, half a day; large place.
+
+Danchadi, half a day; large place.
+
+Dinkadi, half a day; large place.
+
+Rekina, eight hours; large place.
+
+Chifaua, half a day; large place.
+
+Chuni, half a day; large place.
+
+Wababi, half a day; large place.
+
+Dankai, half a day; large place.
+
+Kajiji, half a day; large place.
+
+Chagari, half a day; large place.
+
+Salaha, half a day; large place.
+
+Zuondu, half a day; large place.
+
+Tamboel, half a day; large place.
+
+Kallamfaina, half a day: large place.
+
+Saiyinna, half a day; large place.
+
+These half days are about five hours. All that I could learn of this
+route is, that it goes westwards. The Fellatah tells me there is a good
+road from Sakkatou to Timbuctou, on which caravans are always going in
+great numbers.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_Route from Kanou to Adamaua._
+
+From Kanou, south, to
+
+G.[27] Akwa, half a day, i.e. equal to about three or four hours.
+
+G. Del, half a day.
+
+S. Garwai, half a day.
+
+S. Tabti, half a day.
+
+G. Sabongari, half a day.
+
+G. Waram, half a day.
+
+G. Zarranda, half a day.
+
+G. Garu, capital of Boushi; name of the sultan Yokaba; half a day.
+
+S. Kaddara, half a day.
+
+S. Mankaiama, half a day.
+
+S. Yanyam, half a day.
+
+G. Serken Kuddu, half a day.
+
+G. Jab Jab, half a day.
+
+G. Bumanda, half a day.
+
+G. Jennowai, half a day.
+
+G. Kadduna, half a day.
+
+G. Binnoi, half a day.
+
+Zungwan-dunia, half a day; resting-place; not a town.
+
+Zungwan-Kano, half a day; resting-place.
+
+Zungwan-Mageria, half a day; resting-place.
+
+Chikaji, half a day; resting-place.
+
+S. Akam, half a day.
+
+Yungwan-Bauna, half a day; resting-place; no town.
+
+S. Gangomai, half a day.
+
+Kogimagurji, half a day; resting-place.
+
+Koginbaba, half a day; resting-place.
+
+G. Rumji, half a day.
+
+G. Kwancha, half a day; river. Here begins Adamaua.
+
+G. Laro, half a day; river.
+
+G. Chamba, half a day; river.
+
+G. Turwa, half a day; river.
+
+G. Gurrin, half a day; river.
+
+G. Maiyabatta, half a day; river.
+
+G. Yola, half a day; river; the capital of the territories of Adamaua;
+residence of the sultan, called Mohammed Lauel.
+
+The route is reckoned seventeen days from Kanou to Kwancha, and three
+days from Kwancha to Yola.
+
+ [27] G, large place, or town; S, small place, village. Dictated
+      by the Fellatah horse-dealer, Nammadina.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_Route from Sakkatou to Kabi, S.W._
+
+Silami, 5 hours; large place.
+
+Quaido, 5 hours; large place.
+
+Ugi, one hour; a very considerable town.
+
+Argungu, 5 hours; large place.
+
+Gullema, 5 hours; large place.
+
+Sena, 5 hours; large place.
+
+Birni Kabi: large place.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_Names of Places about Sakkatou, westwards._
+
+Jeka, half a day.
+
+Alieru, 3 hours.
+
+Maddadi, 4 hours.
+
+Margai, 4 hours.
+
+Magagin Kada, 2 hours.
+
+Gommu-gommu, 4 hours.
+
+Binji, 2 hours.
+
+Kandai, 2 hours.
+
+Silami, half a day.
+
+Yabo, 5 hours.
+
+Dundaai, half a day.
+
+Quallai, 3 hours.
+
+Dagga, one long day.
+
+Indaba, half a day.
+
+Assara, one long day.
+
+Zaia, one long day.
+
+Manni, half a day.
+
+Durgalai, 2 hours.
+
+Killarai, 2 hours.
+
+Fadaita, half a day.
+
+Kotuturu, half a day.
+
+Tofa, half a day.
+
+Gidan Majibta, 2 hours.
+
+Maikujaira, half a day.
+
+Kundus, 1 � hours.
+
+Quaquara, 2 hours.
+
+These are all considerable towns and villages. As to their relative
+position, I have merely written down how distant one is from the
+other.
+
+The following is a list which I have obtained of the Tibboo nations (or
+tribes):--
+
+ 1. Etteri, two days north of Kuka or Bornou.
+ 2. Gunda, seven days north from Bornou.
+ 3. Arinda, one day from Gunda.
+ 4. Yurimma, two days from Gunda.
+ 5. Wandala, three days east from Yurimma.
+ 6. Gaidua, four days east from Wandala.
+ 7. Mussaui, seven days east from Wandala.
+ 8. Sakkarta, seven days east from Wandala.
+ 9. Madema, two days east from Sakkarta (country of Kanum).
+10. Choiokkera, four days east from Madema.
+11. Tumbela, two days north from Gunda.
+12. Masella, eleven days north from Bornou (a country of dates).
+13. El-Wudda, one day from Marsella.
+14. Dummeya, thirty days east of Bornou (in Borgu).
+15. Zuaeda, the Tibesti people.
+16. Tamara, country of Bilma, &c.
+17. Tauwia, two days north of Bilma.
+18. Etmada, one day north from Bilma.
+19. Addubocha, fifteen days east of Bilma.
+20. Fuktua, one day east from Addubocha.
+21. Abuya, two days north from Fuktua.
+22. Belguda, eight days east of Bilma.
+23. Nuazma, three days east of Belguda.
+24. Karrai, three days east of Kameru, near the Chada.
+
+
+
+THE END.
+
+
+
+LONDON: PRINTED BY G. BARCLAY, CASTLE ST. LEICESTER SQ.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Narrative of a Mission to Central
+Africa Performed in the Years 185, by James Richardson
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+<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml">
+  <head>
+    <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=iso-8859-1" />
+    <title>
+      The Project Gutenberg eBook of Narrative of a Mission to Central Africa, by James Richardson.
+    </title>
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+<pre>
+
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Narrative of a Mission to Central Africa
+Performed in the Years 1850-51, Volume 2, by James Richardson
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Narrative of a Mission to Central Africa Performed in the Years 1850-51, Volume 2
+       Under the Orders and at the Expense of Her Majesty's Government
+
+Author: James Richardson
+
+Release Date: June 9, 2006 [EBook #18544]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MISSION TO CENTRAL AFRICA ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Carlo Traverso, Annika Feilbach and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This
+file was produced from images generously made available
+by the Biblioth�que nationale de France (BnF/Gallica) at
+http://gallica.bnf.fr)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+
+<div class="note">
+<p class="centre">Transcriber's note:</p>
+<p>This text contains the unicode characters &#257;, &#259;, &#277; and &#333; in a few places.
+If any of these characters do not display in your browser,
+please see the Latin-1 text version for a transcription.</p>
+</div>
+
+<h1>NARRATIVE OF A MISSION TO CENTRAL AFRICA</h1>
+
+<p class="centre"><span class="smcap">Performed in the Years 1850-51,</span></p>
+
+<h3>UNDER THE ORDERS AND AT THE EXPENSE OF HER MAJESTY'S GOVERNMENT.</h3>
+
+<p class="centre">BY THE LATE</p>
+
+<h2>JAMES RICHARDSON,</h2>
+<p class="centre small">AUTHOR OF "TRAVELS IN THE GREAT DESERT OF SAHARA."</p>
+
+<h4>IN TWO VOLUMES.</h4>
+
+<h3>VOL. II.</h3>
+
+<h4>LONDON:<br />
+CHAPMAN AND HALL, 193 PICADILLY.</h4>
+
+<hr style="width: 5%; margin-top: 0em; margin-bottom: 0em;" />
+
+<h5>MDCCCLIII.</h5>
+
+<p class="centre">LONDON:<br />
+Printed by G. Barclay, Castle St. Leicester Sq.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="longer" />
+
+<p><a name="pageiii" id="pageiii"></a></p>
+
+<h2>CONTENTS.</h2>
+
+<div class="toc">
+
+<h3><a href="#chapter1">CHAPTER I.</a></h3>
+
+<div class="summary">
+<p>Description of Tintalous and its Environs&mdash;Palace and
+Huts&mdash;Bedsteads&mdash;Kailouee Race&mdash;Unhandsome Conduct of Mr.
+Gagliuffi&mdash;Proposed Journey to Aghadez&mdash;Dr. Barth starts&mdash;An
+obstinate Bullock&mdash;Present extraordinary&mdash;State of Zinder&mdash;Affability
+of the Sultan&mdash;Power of Charms&mdash;Scorpions&mdash;Dialogue
+with a Gh&acirc;tee&mdash;Splendid Meteors&mdash;Visit from En-Noor&mdash;Intrigues
+of the Fellatahs&mdash;A Sultan loaded with Presents&mdash;Talk
+of departing for Zinder&mdash;State of the Bornou
+Road&mdash;Division of a Bullock&mdash;Bottle of Rum stolen&mdash;More
+Visits from the Sultan&mdash;A Musical Entertainment&mdash;Curious
+Etymological Discussions&mdash;A wonderful Prophetess&mdash;Secret
+Societies&mdash;Magicians&mdash;The Evil Eye&mdash;Morality of Soudan&mdash;Magnificent
+Meteor&mdash;Stories of the Sfaxee.<span class="tocnum"><a href="#page1">1</a></span></p>
+</div>
+
+
+<h3><a href="#chapter2">CHAPTER II.</a></h3>
+
+<div class="summary">
+<p>Muslim want of Curiosity&mdash;Gossip on Meteors&mdash;A Family Broil&mdash;Rationale
+of Wife-beating&mdash;Abominable Dances&mdash;Evil Communications&mdash;Dr.
+Overweg&mdash;Kailouee Vocabulary&mdash;Windy Day&mdash;Account
+of Wada&iuml;&mdash;Madame En-Noor&mdash;Profits of Commerce&mdash;The
+letter <i>Ghain</i>&mdash;Fellatah Language&mdash;Introduction of
+Islamism&mdash;Desert Routes&mdash;Trade in Agate Stones&mdash;A lively
+Patient&mdash;The Eed&mdash;A Visit <i>en masse</i>&mdash;Arrival of the
+Boat&mdash;Butchers&mdash;Exchange of Visits with the Sultan&mdash;Diet&mdash;A
+Shereef&mdash;A delicate Request&mdash;Information on Maradee&mdash;Tesaoua&mdash;Itinerant
+Schoolmasters&mdash;En-Noor's Territory in
+Damerghou&mdash;Unpleasant Communication&mdash;Amulets&mdash;The
+Foundation of a City in the Desert&mdash;En-Noor's Political
+Pretensions.<span class="tocnum"><a href="#page21">21</a></span></p>
+</div>
+
+
+<h3><a href="#chapter3">CHAPTER III.</a></h3>
+
+<div class="summary">
+<p>News from Barth&mdash;Camels restored&mdash;Expensive Journey&mdash;Proposed
+Migration of Males&mdash;Supply of Slaves, whence&mdash;A new
+Well&mdash;Pagans and Christians&mdash;Tibboo Manners&mdash;The great
+Gong&mdash;When is a Tibboo hungry?&mdash;Hunger-belt&mdash;Queen of
+England in the Sahara&mdash;The Shanbah&mdash;A hasty Marriage&mdash;<a name="pageiv" id="pageiv"></a>Sa&iuml;d's
+new Wife&mdash;Wild Cauliflowers&mdash;Tolerance of the Kailouees&mdash;Men
+go to fetch Salt from Bilma&mdash;Approach of Dr.
+Barth&mdash;Lion's Mouth&mdash;Tibboos and Kailouees&mdash;Mysteries of
+Tintalous&mdash;Fewness of Men in Aheer&mdash;Trees preserved in the
+Valley&mdash;Bright Stars&mdash;Method of Salutation&mdash;Purposed
+Stars&mdash;Kailouee Character&mdash;Champagne at Tintalous&mdash;The
+Wells.<span class="tocnum"><a href="#page40">40</a></span></p>
+</div>
+
+
+<h3><a href="#chapter4">CHAPTER IV.</a></h3>
+
+<div class="summary">
+<p>Dr. Barth's Journey to Aghadez&mdash;Description of the
+Route&mdash;Tiggedah&mdash;Luxuriant Scenery of Asadah&mdash;Plain of Tarist&mdash;Beautiful
+Valley&mdash;Buddeh&mdash;Small Caravan&mdash;Aghadez&mdash;its
+Inhabitants&mdash;their Occupation&mdash;The great Koku, or Sultan&mdash;Asbenouee
+Revolutions&mdash;Election of a Prince&mdash;Interview&mdash;Ceremony
+of Investiture&mdash;Razzia&mdash;Intricate Political System&mdash;Account
+of Aghadez&mdash;Mosque&mdash;Environs&mdash;Women&mdash;Tribes
+of Asben&mdash;The Targhee Family&mdash;Population of the Gh&acirc;t
+Districts&mdash;of Aheer&mdash;The Oulimad and Tanelkums&mdash;Tribe
+of Janet&mdash;Haghar&mdash;Sagamaram&mdash;Maghatah&mdash;Extent of
+Aheer&mdash;Connexion with the Black Countries&mdash;Mechanism of
+Society in Aheer&mdash;Chieftains&mdash;Tax-gathering&mdash;Food of the
+Kailouees&mdash;Maharees&mdash;Amusements&mdash;Natural Features of
+Asben&mdash;Vegetation&mdash;Cultivation&mdash;Manufactures&mdash;Bags for
+Charms.<span class="tocnum"><a href="#page57">57</a></span></p>
+</div>
+
+<h3><a href="#chapter5">CHAPTER V.</a></h3>
+
+<div class="summary">
+<p>Projected Departure for Damerghou&mdash;False Start&mdash;Picturesque
+Caravan&mdash;Sultan's Views of White Skins&mdash;My Birthday&mdash;The
+Sultan fights his Battles over again&mdash;His Opinion of
+Women&mdash;Bragging&mdash;The Razzia on the Fadeea&mdash;Political News in the
+Desert&mdash;Cold Weather&mdash;Continue our Journey&mdash;Bornouese
+Fighis&mdash;Tin-Tagannu&mdash;Trap for a Lion&mdash;Mousa's Camels&mdash;A
+further Delay&mdash;Jackals and the Fire&mdash;Language of Signs&mdash;Tintalousian
+Coquettes&mdash;Departure of the Zinder Caravan&mdash;Natural
+Features&mdash;Languages&mdash;The Kilgris&mdash;Killing Lice&mdash;The
+Razzia to the North&mdash;Present of a Draught-board&mdash;Pagan
+Nations&mdash;Favourable Reports.<span class="tocnum"><a href="#page75">75</a></span></p>
+</div>
+
+
+<h3><a href="#chapter6">CHAPTER VI.</a></h3>
+
+<div class="summary">
+<p>Medicine for Bad Eyes&mdash;A summary Proceeding&mdash;News from the
+Salt-Caravan&mdash;Towns and Villages of Tesaoua&mdash;Earthquakes&mdash;Presents
+for the Sultan of Maradee&mdash;Yusuf's Insolence&mdash;English
+Money in Aheer&mdash;A Razzia on the Holy City&mdash;Bornouese
+Studies&mdash;Gipsies of Soudan&mdash;En-Noor and the Marabouts&mdash;Ghaseb&mdash;State
+of the Weather&mdash;Calculations for the<a name="pagev" id="pagev"></a>
+Future&mdash;Senna&mdash;Relations of Man and Wife in Aheer&mdash;En-Noor
+in his Family&mdash;Gouber and Maradee&mdash;Beer-drinking&mdash;Study
+of the Sau&mdash;Shara&mdash;The Oulimad&mdash;Lions&mdash;Translating
+Jokes&mdash;Digging a Well&mdash;Projects.<span class="tocnum"><a href="#page92">92</a></span></p>
+</div>
+
+
+<h3><a href="#chapter7">CHAPTER VII.</a></h3>
+
+<div class="summary">
+<p>Razzia on the Fadeea&mdash;Haussa&mdash;Names of Places&mdash;Ant-track&mdash;Circular
+Letter from Mourzuk&mdash;Vast Rock&mdash;Mustapha Bey's
+Letter&mdash;Effects of Water&mdash;Butterflies&mdash;Aspect of the Country&mdash;A
+Slave advanced to Honour&mdash;Shonshona&mdash;Herbage&mdash;Birds&mdash;Appearance
+of the Salt-Caravan&mdash;Colours of Dawn&mdash;Bilma
+Salt&mdash;Mode of Barter&mdash;Pass the Rock of Mari&mdash;Granite&mdash;Indigo
+Plant&mdash;Presents at Stamboul&mdash;The Sultan begs
+again&mdash;Old Men's Importunities&mdash;Baghzem&mdash;Curiosities of
+the Route&mdash;People of Damerghou&mdash;Temporary Village of
+Women&mdash;Country begins to open&mdash;Barter Transaction with
+Lady En-Noor.<span class="tocnum"><a href="#page110">110</a></span></p>
+</div>
+
+
+<h3><a href="#chapter8">CHAPTER VIII.</a></h3>
+
+<div class="summary">
+<p>We continue our Journey&mdash;Huntsmen&mdash;Gum on the Tholukhs&mdash;The
+Salt-Caravan&mdash;A Bunch of Gum&mdash;Games among the
+Slaves&mdash;Baghzem&mdash;Trees&mdash;Palm of Pharaoh&mdash;Deserted Villages&mdash;Birds'
+Nests&mdash;Wife of En-Noor&mdash;Unan&mdash;Lizards&mdash;Bad
+News&mdash;Christmas day in Africa&mdash;Christmas-boxes&mdash;Begging
+Tuaricks again&mdash;Bargot&mdash;Musicians&mdash;Speculations&mdash;Tribes
+at War&mdash;Parasitical Plant&mdash;Importance of Salt&mdash;Animals&mdash;Agalgo&mdash;Force
+of the Caravan&mdash;Beat of Drum&mdash;Approach
+the Hamadah&mdash;Giraffes&mdash;Poisoned Arrows&mdash;Ear of
+Ghaseb&mdash;Soudan and Bornou Roads.<span class="tocnum"><a href="#page124">124</a></span></p>
+</div>
+
+
+<h3><a href="#chapter9">CHAPTER IX.</a></h3>
+
+<div class="summary">
+<p>Enter the Hamadah&mdash;Home of the Giraffe&mdash;Water of Chidugulah&mdash;Turtles&mdash;Cool
+Wind&mdash;Jerboahs&mdash;Centre of the Sahara&mdash;New-year's
+Eve&mdash;Cold Weather&mdash;Birds of Prey&mdash;Soudan Date&mdash;Burs&mdash;Animals
+on the Plateau&mdash;Young Ostrich&mdash;The
+Tholukh-tree&mdash;Severe Cold&mdash;Eleven Ostriches&mdash;Termination
+of the Desert&mdash;Inasamet&mdash;The Tagama&mdash;Purchases&mdash;People
+begin to improve&mdash;Fruit of the Lote-tree&mdash;Village roofed with
+Skins&mdash;Vast Plain&mdash;Horses&mdash;Approach Damerghou&mdash;Village
+of Gumrek&mdash;Rough Customers&mdash;Wars of the Kilgris and
+Kailouees&mdash;A small Lake&mdash;Guinea-hens&mdash;Vultures&mdash;Party
+of Huntsmen.<span class="tocnum"><a href="#page143">143</a></span></p>
+</div>
+
+<p><a name="pagevi" id="pagevi"></a></p>
+
+<h3><a href="#chapter10">CHAPTER X.</a></h3>
+
+<div class="summary">
+<p>My Barracan&mdash;Spontaneous Civility on arrival in Damerghou&mdash;Ghaseb
+Stubble&mdash;Cactus&mdash;Water-Melons&mdash;Party of Tuaricks&mdash;Boban
+Birni&mdash;Huts of Damerghou&mdash;Tagelel&mdash;Women of the
+Village&mdash;Population of the Country&mdash;Complaisant Ladies&mdash;Festivities&mdash;Aquatic
+Birds&mdash;Dancing&mdash;A Flatterer&mdash;A Slave
+Family&mdash;A new Reason for Wife-beating&mdash;Hazna Dancers&mdash;Damerghou,
+common ground&mdash;Purchase of Ghaseb&mdash;Dethroned
+Sultan&mdash;Yusuf&mdash;Mohammed Tunisee&mdash;Ophthalmia&mdash;Part with
+Barth and Overweg&mdash;Presents to Servants&mdash;Sheikh of Fumta&mdash;Yakobah
+Slave&mdash;Applications for Medicine&mdash;Boban Birni&mdash;Forest&mdash;At
+length enter Bornou ground&mdash;Daazzenai&mdash;Tuarick
+Respectabilities&mdash;Detachment of the Salt-Caravan.<span class="tocnum"><a href="#page161">161</a></span></p>
+</div>
+
+
+<h3><a href="#chapter11">CHAPTER XI.</a></h3>
+
+<div class="summary">
+<p>March for Zinder&mdash;Enter the City&mdash;Reception&mdash;Delighted to escape
+from the Tuaricks&mdash;Letters from Kuka&mdash;Hospitable Treatment&mdash;Presents
+for the Sarkee and others&mdash;Visit the Shereef&mdash;His
+Duties&mdash;Audience of the Sarkee&mdash;Servility&mdash;Double-skulled Slave&mdash;Powder
+and Shot&mdash;Portrait of the Sultan&mdash;Commission from
+Kuka&mdash;European Clothes&mdash;Family of En-Noor&mdash;Tour of the
+Town&mdash;Scavengers&mdash;List of Sultans of Central Africa&mdash;Ancient
+Haussa&mdash;The Market&mdash;Money&mdash;Conversation with the Shereef&mdash;The
+Sultan at Home&mdash;Mixed Race of Zinder&mdash;Statistics&mdash;Personages
+of the Court.<span class="tocnum"><a href="#page178">178</a></span></p>
+</div>
+
+
+<h3><a href="#chapter12">CHAPTER XII.</a></h3>
+
+<div class="summary">
+<p>Presents from Officials&mdash;Mode of treating Camels&mdash;Prices&mdash;Cowrie
+Money&mdash;Shereef Interpreter&mdash;Visits&mdash;Harem&mdash;Houses&mdash;Grand
+Vizier&mdash;Picturesque Dances&mdash;Tuaricks at Zinder&mdash;Kohlans and
+Fullans&mdash;Province of Zinder&mdash;Account of its Rebellions&mdash;Trees&mdash;Details
+on the Slave-trade&mdash;Prices&mdash;Mode of obtaining
+Slaves&mdash;Abject Respect of the Sultan&mdash;Visits&mdash;Interview with
+the Sarkee&mdash;The Presence&mdash;Curious Mode of administering
+Justice&mdash;Barbarous Punishments&mdash;Hy&aelig;nas&mdash;Gurasu&mdash;Fighis&mdash;Place
+of Execution&mdash;Tree of Death&mdash;Hy&aelig;na
+Dens&mdash;Dancing.<span class="tocnum"><a href="#page196">196</a></span></p>
+</div>
+
+<p><a name="pagevii" id="pagevii"></a></p>
+
+<h3><a href="#chapter13">CHAPTER XIII.</a></h3>
+
+<div class="summary">
+<p>Brother of the Sultan&mdash;Trade of Zinder&mdash;Prices&mdash;The Sarkee drinks
+Rum&mdash;Five Cities&mdash;Houses of Zinder&mdash;Female Toilette&mdash;Another
+Tree of Death&mdash;Paganism&mdash;Severity of the Sultan&mdash;Lemons&mdash;Barth
+and Overweg&mdash;Fire&mdash;Brother of the Sarkee&mdash;Daura&mdash;Shonshona&mdash;Lousou&mdash;Slaves
+in Irons&mdash;Reported Razzia&mdash;Talk with the Shereef&mdash;Humble
+Manners&mdash;Applications for Medicines&mdash;Towns and Villages of
+Zinder&mdash;The great Drum&mdash;Dyers&mdash;Tuarick Visits&mdash;Rationale
+of Razzias&mdash;Slaves&mdash;"Like Prince like People"&mdash;French in
+Algiers&mdash;The Market&mdash;Old Slave&mdash;Infamous System&mdash;Plan of the great
+Razzia.<span class="tocnum"><a href="#page214">214</a></span></p>
+</div>
+
+
+<h3><a href="#chapter14">CHAPTER XIV.</a></h3>
+
+<div class="summary">
+<p>Family of the Sarkee&mdash;Converted Jew&mdash;Hard Dealings&mdash;How to
+get rid of a Wife&mdash;Route to Tesaoua&mdash;Influence of Slavery&mdash;Prices
+of Aloes and Silk&mdash;Medicine for a Merchant&mdash;Departure of the Sarkee
+for the Razzia&mdash;Encampment&mdash;Mode of Fighting&mdash;Produce of Razzias&mdash;Story
+of the Tibboo&mdash;Sheikh Lousou&mdash;Gumel&mdash;Superstitions&mdash;Matting&mdash;Visit
+of Ladies&mdash;The Jew&mdash;Incendiaries&mdash;Hazna&mdash;Legend of Zinder
+Well&mdash;Kohul&mdash;Cousin of the Sheikh&mdash;Female Sheikh&mdash;State of the
+Country&mdash;Salutations.<span class="tocnum"><a href="#page233">233</a></span></p>
+</div>
+
+
+<h3><a href="#chapter15">CHAPTER XV.</a></h3>
+
+<div class="summary">
+<p>Political News&mdash;Animals of Zinder&mdash;Sleepy City&mdash;District of
+Korgum&mdash;Razzias&mdash;Family of Sheikh Omer of
+Bornou&mdash;Brothers&mdash;Sons&mdash;Sisters&mdash;Daughters&mdash;Viziers&mdash;Kashallas&mdash;Power
+of the Sheikh&mdash;A Cheating Prince&mdash;Old Slave&mdash;Fetishism&mdash;Devil
+in a Tuarick's head&mdash;Kibabs&mdash;Fires&mdash;A Prophecy&mdash;Another
+Version of the Razzia&mdash;Correspondence between Korgum and
+Zinder.<span class="tocnum"><a href="#page250">250</a></span></p>
+</div>
+
+
+<h3><a href="#chapter16">CHAPTER XVI.</a></h3>
+
+<div class="summary">
+<p>Sheikh of Bornou&mdash;Arab Women&mdash;News from the Razzia&mdash;Procession
+of newly-caught Slaves&mdash;Entrance of the Sarkee&mdash;Chained
+Slaves&mdash;My Servant at the Razzia&mdash;Audacity of Bornou
+Slaves&mdash;Korgum&mdash;Konchai&mdash;Product of the Razzia&mdash;Ghadamsee
+Merchants&mdash;Slave-trade&mdash;Incident at Korgum&mdash;State of Kanou&mdash;A
+Hue and Cry&mdash;Black Character&mdash;Vegetables at
+Zinder&mdash;Minstrel&mdash;Medi&mdash;Gardens&mdash;Ladies&mdash;Fanaticism&mdash;Americans at
+Niffee&mdash;Rich People&mdash;Tuaricks Sick&mdash;Morals&mdash;Dread of the
+Sarkee&mdash;Fashions.<span class="tocnum"><a href="#page263">263</a></span></p>
+</div>
+
+<p><a name="pageviii" id="pageviii"></a></p>
+
+<h3><a href="#chapter17">CHAPTER XVII.</a></h3>
+
+<div class="summary">
+<p>News from Tesaoua&mdash;Razzia on Sakkatou&mdash;Laziness in Zinder&mdash;The
+Hajah&mdash;Herds of Cattle&mdash;More Tuarick Patients&mdash;Gardens&mdash;My
+Luggage&mdash;Adieu to the Sarkee&mdash;Present from his Highness&mdash;Start
+from Zinder&mdash;Country&mdash;Birds&mdash;Overtake the Kashalla&mdash;Slaves
+for Kanou&mdash;Continue the Journey&mdash;People of Deddegi&mdash;Their
+Timidity&mdash;Horse Exercise&mdash;Cotton&mdash;Strange Birds&mdash;Occupation
+of Men and Women&mdash;State of African Society&mdash;Islamism
+and Paganism&mdash;Character of the Kashalla&mdash;A
+Dogberry&mdash;Guddemuni&mdash;Cultivation&mdash;Beggars&mdash;Dancing
+Maidens.<span class="tocnum"><a href="#page281">281</a></span></p>
+</div>
+
+
+<h3><a href="#chapter18">CHAPTER XVIII.</a></h3>
+
+<div class="summary">
+<p>A Village plundered&mdash;Shaidega&mdash;Animals&mdash;Our Biscuit&mdash;Villages
+<i>en route</i>&mdash;Minyo&mdash;Respect for Learning&mdash;Monotony of the
+Country&mdash;A Wedding&mdash;Palsy&mdash;Slave-agents&mdash;Kal, Kal&mdash;Birni
+Gamatak&mdash;Tuaricks on the Plain&mdash;Palms&mdash;Sight the Town of
+Gurai&mdash;Bare Country&mdash;Bearings of various Places&mdash;Province of
+Minyo&mdash;Visit the Sultan&mdash;Audience-room&mdash;Fine Costume&mdash;A
+Scene of Barbaric Splendour&mdash;Trade&mdash;Estimate of Wealth&mdash;How
+to amuse a Prince&mdash;Small Present&mdash;The Oars carried by
+Men&mdash;Town of Gurai&mdash;Fortifications.<span class="tocnum"><a href="#page297">297</a></span></p>
+</div>
+
+
+<h3><a href="#chapter19">CHAPTER XIX.</a></h3>
+
+<div class="summary">
+<p>Fezzanee Traders&mdash;Sultan in want of Medicine&mdash;The Stud&mdash;Letters&mdash;Yusuf's
+Conduct&mdash;Architecture&mdash;Fragment of the History of
+Minyo&mdash;Politics of Zinder&mdash;Bornouese Fish&mdash;Visits&mdash;Two
+Routes&mdash;Dancing by Moonlight&mdash;Richness&mdash;Fires&mdash;Information
+on Boushi and Adamaua&mdash;The Yamyam&mdash;Liver Complaints&mdash;A
+Girl's Game&mdash;Desert Country&mdash;Gift Camel&mdash;Few Living Creatures&mdash;Village
+of Gusumana&mdash;Environs&mdash;The Doom Fruit&mdash;Brothers
+of Sultan of Sakkatou&mdash;Stupid Kadi&mdash;Showing off&mdash;Hot
+Weather&mdash;[Final Note&mdash;Death of Mr. Richardson.]<span class="tocnum"><a href="#page314">314</a></span></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="summary">
+<p><a href="#appendix">
+<span class="smcap">Appendix.</span></a><span class="tocnum"><a href="#page333">333</a></span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="longer" />
+
+<p><a name="page1" id="page1"></a><span class="pageno">[1]</span></p>
+
+<h2>NARRATIVE OF A MISSION TO CENTRAL AFRICA.</h2>
+
+<hr />
+
+<h2><a name="chapter1" id="chapter1"></a>CHAPTER I.</h2>
+
+<div class="summary">
+<p>Description of Tintalous and its Environs&mdash;Palace and
+Huts&mdash;Bedsteads&mdash;Kailouee Race&mdash;Unhandsome Conduct of Mr.
+Gagliuffi&mdash;Proposed Journey to Aghadez&mdash;Dr. Barth starts&mdash;An
+obstinate Bullock&mdash;Present extraordinary&mdash;State of Zinder&mdash;Affability
+of the Sultan&mdash;Power of Charms&mdash;Scorpions&mdash;Dialogue
+with a Gh&acirc;tee&mdash;Splendid Meteors&mdash;Visit from En-Noor&mdash;Intrigues
+of the Fellatahs&mdash;A Sultan loaded with Presents&mdash;Talk
+of departing for Zinder&mdash;State of the Bornou
+Road&mdash;Division of a Bullock&mdash;Bottle of Rum stolen&mdash;More
+Visits from the Sultan&mdash;A Musical Entertainment&mdash;Curious
+Etymological Discussions&mdash;A wonderful Prophetess&mdash;Secret
+Societies&mdash;Magicians&mdash;The Evil Eye&mdash;Morality of Soudan&mdash;Magnificent
+Meteor&mdash;Stories of the Sfaxee.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>I begin at length to consider myself as it were at
+home in this singular country of Aheer&mdash;without,
+however, experiencing any desire to dally here
+longer than the force of circumstances absolutely
+requires. It must be confessed, as I have already<a name="page2" id="page2"></a><span class="pageno">[2]</span>
+hinted, that the town of Tintalous,<a name="anchor1" id="anchor1"></a><a href="#footnote1"
+class="fnanchor">[1]</a> in front of
+which we are encamped, does not at all answer
+the idea which our too active imagination had
+formed. Yet it is a singular place. It is situated
+on rocky ground, at the bend of a broad valley,
+which in the rainy season becomes often-times
+the bed of a temporary river. Here and there
+around it are scattered numerous trees, many of
+considerable size, giving the surface of the valley
+something of a park-like appearance. The herbage
+is not rich, but it is ornamental, and refreshes the
+eye in contrast with the black, naked rocks, which
+rise on all hands to the height often of two or three
+thousand feet. To the east, it is true, the country is
+a little open; and between the mountains run in
+numerous white sandy wadys, sprinkled with fresh
+green plants, or shaded by various species of mimosa
+and other spreading trees, under which the
+shepherds and herdsmen find shelter from the
+sun.</p>
+
+<p>The principal feature of Tintalous itself is what
+may be called the palace of En-Noor. It is, indeed,
+one, compared with the huts and stone hovels amidst
+which it is placed. The materials are stone plastered
+with mud, and also the wood of the mimosa
+tree. The form is an oblong square, one story high,<a name="page3" id="page3"></a><span class="pageno">[3]</span>
+with an interior courtyard, and various appendages
+and huts around on the outside. There is another
+house, and also a mosque built in the same style, but
+much smaller. Of the rest of the habitations, a few
+are stone sheds, but the greater part are huts made
+of the dry stalks of the fine herb called bou rekabah,
+in the form of a conical English haystack, and are
+very snug, impervious alike to rain and sun. There
+are not more than one hundred and fifty of these
+huts and sheds, scattered over a considerable space,
+without any order; some are placed two or three
+together within a small enclosure, which serves as a
+court or yard, in which visitors are received and
+cooking is carried on. There is another little village
+at a stone's-throw north. The inhabitants of these
+two villages consist entirely of the slaves and dependants
+of En-Noor.</p>
+
+<p>All around Tintalous, within an hour or two
+hours' ride, there are villages or towns of precisely
+the same description, more or less numerously
+peopled. At Seloufeeat and Tintaghoda, however,
+we saw more houses built of stone and mud. This
+may be accounted for by the fact that the inhabitants
+are not nearly so migratory as those of Tintalous,
+who often follow in a body the motions of
+their master, so that he is ever surrounded by an
+imposing household.</p>
+
+<p>I must not omit mentioning an important article
+of furniture which is to be observed in all the<a name="page4" id="page4"></a><span class="pageno">[4]</span>
+houses of Aheer&mdash;namely, the bedstead. Whilst
+most of the inhabitants of Fezzan lie upon skins or
+mats upon the ground, the Kailouees have a nice
+light palm-branch bedstead, which enables them to
+escape the damp of the rainy season, and the attack
+of dangerous insects and reptiles like the scorpion
+and the l&ecirc;fa.</p>
+
+<p>I shall hereafter make a few observations on the
+tribes inhabiting Aheer. Here I will note that they
+are all called Targhee, that is Tuarick, by the traders
+of the north; and that the predominant race is the
+Kailouee. To me the latter seems to be a mixture
+of the Berbers, or supposed aborigines of the northern
+coast, with all the tribes and varieties of tribes of the
+interior of Africa. This may account for their
+having less pride and stiffness than the Tuaricks
+of Gh&acirc;t, who are purer Berbers; as well as for their
+disposition to thieving and petty larceny, of which I
+have recently been obliged to give some examples.
+The pure Berbers, likewise, are much less sensual
+than their bastard descendants, who seem, indeed, to
+have no idea of pleasure but in its grossest shape.</p>
+
+<p>The Kailouees are, for the most part, tall and
+active, little encumbered by bulky bodies; some
+having both complexion and features nearly European.
+At any rate there are many as fair-looking
+as the Arabs generally, whilst others are
+quite negro in colour. The women are smaller and
+stouter; some are fattened like the Mooresses of the<a name="page5" id="page5"></a><span class="pageno">[5]</span>
+coast, and attain to an enormous degree of <i>embon-point</i>.
+They are not ill-looking, but offer nothing
+remarkable in their forms.</p>
+
+<p>I have already set down many particulars of
+manners, and shall proceed to do so in the same disjointed
+way. At a future time all these traits must
+be collected to form one picture.<a name="anchor2" id="anchor2"></a><a href="#footnote2"
+class="fnanchor">[2]</a> For the present
+I am anxious about the future progress of the Mission,
+and impatient, at any rate, to hear some news
+of our advance. We cannot do all the things
+we would. Our position is almost that of prisoners.
+We must depend entirely on the caprice of En-Noor,
+who, however, may already have laid out his
+plans distinctly, though he does not choose to communicate
+them to us.</p>
+
+<p><i>Oct. 2d.</i>&mdash;We have been lately discussing the
+practicability of going to Sakkatou, on a visit to
+the Sultan Bello; and this morning I looked over,
+for the first time, some "letters of credit" which
+Mr. Gagliuffi, our plausible consul at Mourzuk,
+had given me. I found that the amount offered
+for the use of the expedition in Kanou does not
+exceed a hundred and fifty reals of Fezzan, or about
+twenty pounds sterling, and that the agent is expressly
+requested not to advance any more! This
+extraordinary document induced me to look further,<a name="page6" id="page6"></a><span class="pageno">[6]</span>
+and it soon appeared that the documents on which
+I relied so much were mere delusions. The wording
+of the Arabic letter to Bornou was ambiguous;
+but in as far as I and my interpreter could make it
+out, Haj Bashaw, to whom it is addressed, was
+requested, if he had any money of Mr. Gagliuffi's
+in hand, to give me <i>a little</i>! I really did not expect
+that a person in whom I had placed so much
+confidence would play me this trick. But it seems
+that Levantines are and will be Levantines to the
+end of time. I have written to Government, complaining
+of this unworthy conduct.</p>
+
+<p><i>3d.</i>&mdash;Dr. Barth is about to take advantage of
+the delay necessarily incurred at Tintalous to visit
+Aghadez, the real capital of Aheer, to which the
+new Sultan has lately been led, and where his investiture
+will shortly be celebrated. This journey
+will extend our knowledge of this singular Saharan
+country, and may also be of advantage in procuring
+the signature of the Sultan to a treaty of commerce.</p>
+
+<p><i>4th.</i>&mdash;Dr. Barth started this morning in company
+with Hamma, Waled Ocht En-Noor (son of
+the sister of En-Noor). The departure took place
+in presence of the Sultan himself, who had come to
+take tea with me. The caravan was at first composed
+of bullocks, the camels being a little in advance
+on the road. Our friend the Doctor started
+astride on one of these animals, which are a little
+difficult to manage, especially when they have been
+out at grass for some time. Indeed, in the first<a name="page7" id="page7"></a><span class="pageno">[7]</span>
+place, it is no easy matter to catch them from
+amongst the herds; then it is hard to load them;
+and then, though not often, they refuse to proceed.
+On this occasion a powerful brute proved absolutely
+unmanageable. En-Noor, seeing its obstinacy, exclaimed
+that he gave it to me to kill and eat. He
+afterwards, however, modified his gift, and said
+that the bullock was also to be distributed amongst
+the Arabs of the caravans now in Tintalous; and
+that we were to give a turban as a present to the
+herdsman. I was told that, in the meantime, representation
+had been made to him, to the effect that it
+was unfair to distinguish the Christians in this manner.
+Soon after the animal was given it ran away,
+and no one could catch it.</p>
+
+<p>Well, the bullock caravan went off in good style;
+and Sultan En-Noor remained taking his tea and
+eating English pickles and marmalade with me. He
+drank the tea and ate the other delicacies with evident
+pleasure, not being afraid, like the greater part of
+his subjects, to eat the food of Christians. Possession
+of power seems to have one good effect&mdash;the destruction
+of prejudice; pity that it sometimes goes
+further and destroys belief. En-Noor told us that the
+Sultan of Asoudee had gone out on a razzia to the
+west. We are obliged to hope that it will be
+successful, as otherwise our affairs will most materially
+suffer. We talked also of the state of Zinder,
+which is represented to be a walled town, with seven
+gates built amidst and around some huge rocks. The<a name="page8" id="page8"></a><span class="pageno">[8]</span>
+governor, Ibrahim, keeps fifty drummers at work
+every night, but whether with a purpose superstitious
+or political I do not know.</p>
+
+<p>En-Noor admired much the portraits of the personages
+who figure in the accounts of the former
+expedition to this part of the world, particularly
+that of Clapperton. He had also a wonderful story
+to tell of this traveller's magic. He said that
+Abdallah (Clapperton's travelling name) had learned
+from his books the site of his (En-Noor's) father's
+house, that near it was a gold mine, and that he had
+intended to come and give intelligence of this treasure.
+"See!" exclaimed the Sultan, "what wonderful
+things are written in the books of the Christians!"</p>
+
+<p>My young fighi (or writer of charms) tells me,
+as a secret, that he cannot write a talisman for himself,
+but must ask another of the brotherhood to do
+this for him. Neither in this place can physicians
+heal themselves. This civil youth made me a present
+of a piece of his workmanship to-day, observing,
+"There is great profit in its power; it will preserve
+you from the cut of the sword and the firing of the
+gun." I pray not to have occasion to test its
+efficacy, but hope it may also serve as a protection
+from the bite of scorpions, which are so plentiful
+about here, and are said, at this season, to jump like
+grasshoppers. According to the people of Tintalous
+there are three species of them, each distinguished
+by a different colour&mdash;black, red, and yellow. Despite
+the talk of these disgusting reptiles I went in the<a name="page9" id="page9"></a><span class="pageno">[9]</span>
+evening to see the wells which supply Tintalous with
+water. They are nothing more than holes scooped
+out of the sand in the bed of the wady, and supplied
+by <i>ma-el-matr</i>, "rain-water," which collects only a
+few feet under the sand, and passes through no
+minerals.</p>
+
+<p>I afterwards proceeded to the encampment of
+the slave caravan, which is going in a few days to
+Gh&acirc;t. A native of that place&mdash;the chief, indeed&mdash;was
+exceedingly rude at our first rencounter, and the
+following dialogue took place:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p><i>The Gh&acirc;tee.</i> Where are you going?</p>
+
+<p><i>Myself.</i> I am going to Sakkatou.</p>
+
+<p><i>The Gh&acirc;tee.</i> What for?</p>
+
+<p><i>Myself.</i> To see the Sultan, who is my friend.</p>
+
+<p><i>The Gh&acirc;tee.</i> How do you know him?</p>
+
+<p><i>Myself.</i> The English have known him for years
+past.</p>
+
+<p><i>The Gh&acirc;tee.</i> Ah!</p>
+
+<p><i>Myself.</i> Yes.</p>
+
+<p><i>The Gh&acirc;tee.</i> Have you any dollars&mdash;large dollars?
+(making a large circle with his thumb and
+forefinger.)</p>
+
+<p><i>Myself.</i> No: I don't carry money to Soudan,
+which is of no use to me. There I shall have wad&acirc;.</p>
+
+<p><i>Gh&acirc;tee.</i> Eh! Eh! But cannot you give me a
+turban?</p>
+
+<p><i>Myself.</i> No, I am not a merchant, I don't bring
+such things; go to the Arab merchants and buy.</p>
+
+<p><i>Gh&acirc;tee.</i> Um! Um!</p>
+
+<p><a name="page10" id="page10"></a><span class="pageno">[10]</span></p>
+
+<p><i>Myself.</i> Do you know Mohammed Kafa in Gh&acirc;t?</p>
+
+<p><i>Gh&acirc;tee.</i> Oh, yes!</p>
+
+<p><i>Myself.</i> He is my friend.</p>
+
+<p><i>Gh&acirc;tee.</i> Allah!</p>
+
+<p><i>Myself.</i> Yes; he sent me a fine dinner twice
+whilst I was in Gh&acirc;t.</p>
+
+<p><i>Gh&acirc;tee.</i> Allah! Allah!</p>
+
+<p><i>Myself.</i> Do you know Haj Ibrahim? He is my
+great friend.</p>
+
+<p><i>Gh&acirc;tee.</i> Allah! Allah! (greatly surprised).</p>
+
+<p><i>Myself.</i> Why, how is it that you do not know
+me, Yak&#333;b, as I have been in Gh&acirc;t many years
+before?</p>
+
+<p>At this some of the other people of the caravan
+cried out, "Yes, yes, we all know Yak&#333;b;" so that
+I left the rude slave-merchant quite crest-fallen.
+He evidently, at first, wished to assume the airs of a
+Haghar, and bully me out of a present.</p>
+
+<p>The caravan consisted of some thirty poor young
+women and children. There was also with them a
+small quantity of elephants' teeth.</p>
+
+<p>Now that the moon is absent and the nights
+are clear we have a most splendid view of the
+heavens, its stars and constellations. The number
+of meteors darting to and fro overhead is
+very great&mdash;nearly one a minute shoots along.
+Some are only a faint glimmer, and have but the
+existence of a moment, whilst others are very beautiful
+and last several seconds.</p>
+
+<p><i>5th.</i>&mdash;The weather is improving; the strong gusts
+<a name="page11" id="page11"></a><span class="pageno">[11]</span>
+of wind have ceased, and so has the rain. We have
+now calm and fine days with moderate heat.</p>
+
+<p>In the afternoon I received another visit from
+En-Noor, who came straight into my tent, like an
+old friend whom I had known for twenty years. He
+stopped with me at least an hour, drinking tea and
+smoking, chatting the while about his past history
+and present affairs. He reiterated again assurances
+of his friendship for the English, and his determination
+to remain the ally of the Queen of England!
+He referred to the time when the great Bello, sultan
+of Sakkatou, sent his ambassador to request him
+(En-Noor) and all his people to subject themselves
+to the Fellatahs. En-Noor gave him for answer, "I am
+under God, the servant of God, and shall not submit
+myself to you or to any one upon earth. My father,
+and grandfather, and great-grandfather, and all my
+ancestors, ruled here, and were the servants of God,
+and I shall follow in their steps." The Fellatahs
+then tried to seduce the people, but they all said,
+"We have one Sultan, that is En-Noor." All the
+other authorities of Aheer followed the example,
+and preserved their independence, the people everywhere
+arming themselves with whatever weapons
+they had in case a war should break out.</p>
+
+<p>After this narrative, En-Noor spoke again of the
+English, and said he should send a maharee for the
+Queen.</p>
+
+<p>I gave him a fancy ring of the value of threepence,
+with a mock diamond in it, which he immediately<a name="page12" id="page12"></a><span class="pageno">[12]</span>
+put on his finger with as much glee and pride
+as the gayest Parisian coquette. Yusuf and the
+Sfaxee, being present, swore it was <i>diamanti</i>; but I
+am quite sure the old Sheikh understood the compliment.
+I also gave him a pair of bellows, a basin,
+and a pint bottle with a little oil it; with all these
+things he was greatly delighted, continually admiring
+and trying the bellows. When he went out of the
+tent he himself carried all these articles away under
+his arm.</p>
+
+<p>With reference to our wish to start for Zinder,
+the Sultan says he will send immediately for the
+boat, that it may be ready by the time Dr. Barth
+returns from Aghadez, when he is determined
+himself to take that route. He seems now in the
+enjoyment of good health. I felt much satisfied
+with his visit. Certainly, when I reflect that in the
+northern frontier of Aheer we were pursued for
+several days, like monsters not fit to live, by armed
+bands, this appears to me extraordinary condescension
+on the part of En-Noor. I hope we shall part in a
+friendly manner. This worthy sovereign gives the
+present Sultan of Sakkatou, Ali Bello, the character
+of a miser, but says that his father was a man of
+liberality. He cannot exceed En-Noor himself in
+greediness.</p>
+
+<p>The bad state of the Bornou route is accounted
+for by the desire the Kailouees have to render it
+unsafe, so that they may have all the caravans come
+along their own route. The same thing is said of the<a name="page13" id="page13"></a><span class="pageno">[13]</span>
+Timbuctoo route from Soudan. The Haghar murder
+all who attempt to go from Soudan to Timbuctoo,
+in order that the caravans may pass Gh&acirc;t and Tuat.
+This is called the natural explanation of the bad
+character of these routes.</p>
+
+<p><i>6th.</i>&mdash;I continue to record the few characteristic
+incidents of my residence at Tintalous. Our bullock
+has been at last killed. We could not catch him,
+but shot him down. The carcase was divided between
+no less than twenty persons, and the meat proved to
+be pretty good. Of my share I made steaks, which
+I washed down with some tea and rum. This is the
+first time we have had fresh beef since leaving
+Tripoli. The event created an immense sensation
+throughout the whole town of Tintalous, for the
+slaughter of a bullock does not take place there
+every day.</p>
+
+<p>This morning I administered two ounces of
+Epsom salts to a good-natured Kailouee, who,
+although perfectly well, would persist in begging for
+medicine. These people are continually asking to
+be doctored when nothing ails them. En-Noor
+seems to have taken a fancy to our morning beverages,
+and has sent for tea and coffee. I am afraid
+he will become a regular customer. Yusuf carried
+off a bottle of rum from the tent in the evening,
+which occasioned a disturbance between the servants
+and myself. This worthy is not to be trusted with
+the care of any strong liquor. The little Hamadee
+was privy to the theft. In the course of the evening<a name="page14" id="page14"></a><span class="pageno">[14]</span>
+the <i>new moon</i> was seen by seven creditable persons,
+so that in eight days more we shall have the Feast
+of the "Descent of the Koran from Heaven," and four
+or five days after that we hope to start for Zinder.</p>
+
+<p><i>7th.</i>&mdash;This was a fine morning, with the thermometer
+at sunrise in the tent 70&deg;; outside, 66&deg;.
+The water has been so cooled during the night that
+my hands ached when I washed them. Later in the
+season it will be yet colder; and all reports tell us
+that in Kanou after the rains it is often very chilly.</p>
+
+<p>His highness the Sultan again was attracted
+by my tea and marmalade, and gave me a call. He
+desired to see once more the portrait of Clapperton,
+and told me that Abdallah had five women in
+Sakkatou, and had left behind him three children,
+all boys. The Sultan was excessively friendly in
+manner, which induced me to make him another
+little present of a ring set with paste, and a small
+pair of gilt scissors for one of his wives. He calls
+me his brother, and manifests increased anxiety to
+be friendly with the English. According to him, a
+short time since the Sheikh of El-Fadeea, who
+commanded the attack made on us at the frontier,
+came here; and, in consideration of a few presents
+and compliments, had promised to exert himself to
+procure the restoration of our lost or stolen camels.
+En-Noor also again talked about the boat. I am in
+great hopes that we shall part from him on good
+terms, and that he will be true to his protestations.
+There is generally a companion with the old<a name="page15" id="page15"></a><span class="pageno">[15]</span>
+gentleman on these visits. This time it was an aged
+Tanelkum, who married a sister of the Sheikh and
+has been settled many years in the country. We
+gave him more tea, and also a piece of white sugar,
+to carry home.</p>
+
+<p>This evening the Fezzan and Tripoli Arabs had
+a musical entertainment, accompanied with dancing,
+at which Madame En-Noor and several distinguished
+ladies of Tintalous assisted. It was the usual singing
+business, with Moorish hammering on tambourines.
+The dance was performed by men, mostly in imitation
+of the women, and was also of the usual inelegant
+and indelicate description. However, there was a
+little mixing of the derwish dances. The thing went
+off to the great satisfaction of the Kailouees, and was
+kept up till midnight.</p>
+
+<p><i>8th.</i>&mdash;I slept little after the villanous dancing
+and riot of the preceding night, and rose late. My
+occupation this day was completing my vocabulary of
+the Kailouee language, of which I expect to collect
+a thousand words. My interpreter sometimes gives
+very curious explanations when I work with him.
+The Arabic word which we translate "Alas!" coming
+under consideration, he observed: "There is no
+corresponding word in the languages of these countries.
+This word belongs to the Koran and the
+next world." He means, that the word has only a
+relation to the torment of the damned. It is curious
+that this Arabic term agrees with, or is like, our
+word <i>wail</i> (Ar. <i>weel</i>), and is the term used by our
+<a name="page16" id="page16"></a><span class="pageno">[16]</span>
+translators of the New Testament in describing the
+torments of the lost, "Weeping and <i>wailing</i>" &amp;c.</p>
+
+<p>Of the term "chaste," Yusuf observed, "There
+is no such expression in these languages; all the
+women are alike, and equally accessible when danger
+is absent." It is also true that the men place no
+bounds to their sensual appetites, and are restrained
+only by inability. It may be, however, that the
+more religious would have some scruples about
+intriguing with their neighbours' wives.</p>
+
+<p>When we came to the word "school" Yusuf
+pretended there was not such a word in Kailouee.
+He asked, "Where in Tintalous is there a school?"
+The question, unfortunately, is put with too much
+truth. The Kailouees hereabouts seem entirely to
+neglect education.</p>
+
+<p>I myself observe that the Arabic <i>booss</i> answers
+exactly to the vulgar word in English for <i>kiss</i>.<a name="anchor3"
+id="anchor3"></a><a href="#footnote3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a>
+The name of a raven is one of many remarkable
+examples of a word being chosen to imitate in
+sound some peculiarity of the thing signified. In
+this case, <i>k&#257;k</i> irresistibly reminds one of the raven's
+croaking voice; which we describe by <i>caw</i>. <i>Kass</i>,
+scissors, is also an imitation of the sound produced
+by this instrument in cutting.</p>
+
+<p><a name="page17" id="page17"></a><span class="pageno">[17]</span></p>
+
+<p>In the evening the Sfaxee and Yusuf came to
+pay us a visit, and related divers sorts of wonders of
+this and other countries of Africa. The first matter
+concerned us. Eight days ago died in Tintalous
+an old witch, or prophetess, a negress, who foretold
+our arrival, and said to En-Noor, "A caravan of
+Englishmen is on the road from Tripoli, coming to
+you." This woman for many years was a foreteller
+of future events. The next thing we heard referred
+to the secret societies of Central Africa. Some of
+the chiefs of these societies have the power of killing
+with their eyes. One of these fellows is known to
+have gone to a merchant, in whose arms was sleeping
+a pretty female slave, and to have entered into
+conversation with him, asking him how he was, &amp;c.
+In the meanwhile the wizard cast his eyes upon the
+pretty slave, and its heart withered. This power is
+accordingly much dreaded. If, however, any one
+perceive the incantation of the wizard, and say,
+"Begone, you son of a brach!" he immediately flees,
+like a dog with his tail between his legs.</p>
+
+<p>In parts of Bornou, also, extraordinary things
+sometimes happen. There are men in those places
+who have the power of assuming the shapes of wild
+animals. This they do mostly in the nights. Under
+the form of lions and leopards, they go to the tents
+of strangers, and endeavour to lure them forth by
+calling out their proper names with a perfect human
+voice. If any one is so imprudent as to obey
+summons and issue forth, he is at once devoured.</p>
+
+<p><a name="page18" id="page18"></a><span class="pageno">[18]</span></p>
+
+<p>The Sfaxee pledges his word of honour that there
+was a female slave a year ago in Mourzuk who
+killed five of her companions with her looks. On
+this a council was held by the merchants and great
+people of Mourzuk, to know what to do with her,
+and the decision come to was to send her back to
+Bornou; a happy decision for the poor slave!
+Lucky for her that she was not born in some parts
+of Europe, with her marvellous power. Even our
+friend Gagliuffi has not escaped these superstitions
+of the people among whom he lives. On my seeing
+his young turkeys for the first time, in very considerable
+numbers, I exclaimed, "What a host of
+young turkeys you have got!" On this he became
+quite alarmed, lest I had cast a malign look upon
+them, and ejaculated a counter-exclamation, "Oh,
+God bless them!"</p>
+
+<p>The Sfaxee and Yusuf do not speak very favourably
+of some parts of Soudan as to morality.
+In some districts of Begarmi, Yusuf says, a male
+takes the first female he meets with, no matter how
+near the relationship. All the women, in fact, are
+in common. We must receive his asseverations for
+what they are worth, on this subject in general, and
+on the developements into which he entered. According
+to him, in those regions where scarcely any
+other roof is required but the heavens, there is no
+other couch spread than the earth, and no one shuns,
+in any act of life, the eyes of his neighbours.</p>
+
+<p>Whilst these wonders of witches and tales of<a name="page19" id="page19"></a><span class="pageno">[19]</span>
+African lewdness were being related, a thing happened
+which none could disbelieve, none call in
+question. This was the appearance of an immense
+meteor in the sky, shooting over half the heavens,
+with a slight curve, from east to west. It had a
+tail like a comet, and around its head burnt a blue
+light of excessive brilliancy. This phenomenon appeared
+at a quarter to eight o'clock in the evening.
+I never saw anything like it before, and perhaps
+shall never again see its equal. It might have been
+visible two minutes. We all cried out with surprise
+at beholding it. We had our faces towards the
+south, and the course of the meteor was across the
+south, but not very high, at about the third of the
+circle of the heavens. Afterwards, every few
+minutes, small meteors were seen sporting about in
+the same direction, some in a straight line and
+others descending.</p>
+
+<p><i>9th.</i>&mdash;The wind of this fine cool morning prevented
+a visit from En-Noor. That he might not
+be disappointed, however, I sent him his customary
+tea; and amused myself by hearing the Sfaxee discourse
+of that constant subject of conversation, the
+attack of the Fadeea. According to him, on that
+occasion great fear was felt by all the caravan.
+Most of our servants had formed the resolution to
+abandon us. There were, however, some honourable
+exceptions; amongst the rest, Sa&iuml;d, the great mahadee,
+and another. Yusuf and Mohammed Tunisee
+proposed the plan, that we three, the Germans, and<a name="page20" id="page20"></a><span class="pageno">[20]</span>
+myself, should be mounted on maharees, and either
+conveyed back to Aisou or forward to Tintaghoda,
+during the night. Some of the Kailouees wavered,
+as well as the Tanelkums; but En-Noor (of our
+escort) always declared that he would never consent
+to our being given up. The next morning, two or
+three of the assailants were very bold, and came and
+called out in an authoritative tone, that we must be
+given up. It is curious that, in spite of all the force
+that was mustered against us, as soon as they saw
+that we were determined to resist them, they immediately
+began to parley. The Sfaxee is an immense
+talker, and great allowance must be made for what
+he says. In reality, we shall never be able to know
+the exact truth with respect to this affair. Dr.
+Overweg confesses that he was terribly alarmed as
+well he might be. For my part, I was more used
+to desert dangers, and slept all night. Dr. Barth
+very kindly refused to allow anybody to awaken
+me.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="footnote1" id="footnote1"></a><a href="#anchor1">[1]</a> Tintalous
+is 40 short and 30 long days from Gh&acirc;t, N.N.E.;
+60 short and 50 long from Mourzuk, N.E.; 20 short, 15 long, from
+Zinder or Damerghou, S.S.W.; 7 long, 10 or 12 short, from Bilma,
+E.; 38 to 45 days from Tuat, N.W. (<i>vi&acirc;</i> Taghajeet). Maharees, of
+course, trot and gallop in half the time. These are native statements.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="footnote2" id="footnote2"></a><a href="#anchor2">[2]</a> Perhaps the
+note-books of Mr. Richardson, in which facts are
+set down fresh and distinct just as they presented themselves, will be
+found to be more interesting than an elaborate narrative. At any rate
+it has seemed better not to attempt to do what was left undone in this
+matter.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="footnote3" id="footnote3"></a><a href="#anchor3">[3]</a> A good many
+similarities of this kind, accidental or otherwise,
+might be pointed out: <i>ydrub</i> is "to drub;" <i>kaab</i> would be translated,
+in old English, "kibe;" <i>ykattah</i> is "to cut;" <i>kotta</i>, "a cat;"
+<i>bak</i>, "a bug;" <i>stabl</i>, "a stable," &amp;c. &amp;c. I have noticed, also,
+some similarities with French words e.g. <i>ykassar</i>, "casser"&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p><a name="page21" id="page21"></a><span class="pageno">[21]</span></p>
+
+
+
+<h2><a name="chapter2" id="chapter2"></a>CHAPTER II.</h2>
+
+<div class="summary">
+<p>Muslim want of Curiosity&mdash;Gossip on Meteors&mdash;A Family Broil&mdash;Rationale
+of Wife-beating&mdash;Abominable Dances&mdash;Evil Communications&mdash;Dr.
+Overweg&mdash;Kailouee Vocabulary&mdash;Windy Day&mdash;Account
+of Wada&iuml;&mdash;Madame En-Noor&mdash;Profits of Commerce&mdash;The
+letter <i>Ghain</i>&mdash;Fellatah Language&mdash;Introduction of
+Islamism&mdash;Desert Routes&mdash;Trade in Agate Stones&mdash;A lively
+Patient&mdash;The Eed&mdash;A Visit <i>en masse</i>&mdash;Arrival of the
+Boat&mdash;Butchers&mdash;Exchange of Visits with the Sultan&mdash;Diet&mdash;A
+Shereef&mdash;A delicate Request&mdash;Information on Maradee&mdash;Tesaoua&mdash;Itinerant
+Schoolmasters&mdash;En-Noor's Territory in
+Damerghou&mdash;Unpleasant Communication&mdash;Amulets&mdash;The
+Foundation of a City in the Desert&mdash;En-Noor's Political Pretensions.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<p><i>Oct. 10th.</i>&mdash;My garrulous friend the Sfaxee has gone
+off this morning, to bring his merchandise from Tintaghoda.
+The little fighi came, as usual, to see me.
+I showed him the Arabic New Testament. He read
+a few sentences, and then laid the book aside. I
+offered it to him, but he refused to accept the inestimable
+present. He represents the feelings of all
+the Muslims of these countries. They have not even
+any <i>curiosity</i> to know the contents of the Gospel,
+much less the inclination to study or appreciate
+them. They remain in a state of immovable, absolute<a name="page22" id="page22"></a><span class="pageno">[22]</span>
+indifference. Even the beautiful manner in
+which the Arabic letters are printed scarcely excites
+their surprise. En-Noor paid me his usual morning
+visit, drank tea, and ate pickles and marmalade.
+We asked him about meteors. He recollects the
+fall of many. One, he says, fell upon a house, and
+terrified the inhabitants, who came running to him.
+Afterwards they dug to the depth of a man, and
+found nothing, for it had buried itself deep in the
+earth. According to him, a great profusion of
+meteors denotes abundance of rain and herbage:
+but these phenomena exert also a sinister influence
+like comets, signifying the death of some
+great personage. I have no doubt that extraordinary
+meteors are very frequent in this part of the
+Sahara. En-Noor was very condescending, as
+usual: no change is observable in his manners.</p>
+
+<p>It turned out that he had come with the intention
+of speaking on a very delicate subject, but had
+refrained. We learned what it was afterwards.
+Dr. Overweg was sent for in the course of the day to
+attend upon one of En-Noor's wives, who had been
+frightfully beaten by his highness the previous evening.
+This domestic broil formed the common topic
+of conversation in Tintalous. Every scandal-monger
+has got hold of one version of the story. From what
+we could gather, the great man was lying down
+quietly, when suddenly, without any apparent provocation,
+he started up, took a large stick from the
+fire, one of its ends still burning, and with this terrific
+<a name="page23" id="page23"></a><span class="pageno">[23]</span>
+weapon belaboured his wife over the face,
+striking especially at the mouth, and cutting the
+upper lip in two. The poor woman is now very ill.
+No cause can be discovered for this piece of brutality.
+En-Noor has, they pretend, two wives here,
+and one on his estate at Damerghou; but he has
+only one son and three daughters. No larger family
+has this great man, with all his wealth and slaves,
+been able to bring up.</p>
+
+<p>Beating a wife is so common in these countries,
+that, only when the act is attended with features of
+unusual atrocity, as in this case of En-Noor, does it
+excite any attention. There cannot be a question of
+the fact, that our friend the Sultan is a great despot
+in every point of view. Perhaps in no other way
+could he maintain any authority amongst these semi-barbarian
+Kailouees. This, nevertheless, cannot
+excuse the atrocity of beating his wife with burning
+fagots. Some say that the exciting cause of his
+brutality was the eternal loquacity of the woman, of
+which his highness began to be afraid. This may be
+true, or be only an excuse invented by his courtiers.
+Supposing, however, the cause to have been her
+<i>infidelity</i>, let us examine what can be reasonably
+expected from these African women. They are
+not allowed scarcely to believe themselves to possess
+souls; they have no moral motives to be chaste, and
+certainly none of family and honour, being mostly
+slaves. Then the greater part of the young girls of
+consequence are married to old men, who are worn<a name="page24" id="page24"></a><span class="pageno">[24]</span>
+out by their sensual habits and indulgence with innumerable
+concubines. These young women are thus
+left, though married, like so many widows, without
+education or religious motives, and with all their
+passions alive, to the first opportunity which presents
+itself. We know what they do, and we cannot expect
+anything else from them.</p>
+
+<p>We have often dancing now of evenings. Yesterday,
+hearing the tambourines and other instruments
+strike up, I went to the house of the Sfaxee to
+see what was going on. They were dancing again
+their Mourzuk dances before a number of delighted
+Kailouees, male and female; amongst the rest Lady
+En-Noor herself. The whole beauty and appropriateness
+of this exercise amongst the Moors consists,
+as is well known, in gross imitations of natural
+acts. No further description or comment can I
+permit myself. I have often thought that the present
+dance must be an inheritance from very ancient
+times. There seems to be a part of our nature to
+which it is adapted. The performances at European
+Operas are often nearly as indelicate.</p>
+
+<p>Evil communications corrupt good manners.
+One of our servants has learned to act the Tuarick.
+He quarrelled with Yusuf, and on being told to go
+away replied, "Yes. I will go; but when you get up
+to Damerghou I will bring down the people upon
+these Christians, and they shall be eaten up!"</p>
+
+<p><i>11th.</i>&mdash;Zangheema, En-Noor's principal slave,
+came early this morning for Dr. Overweg, that he<a name="page25" id="page25"></a><span class="pageno">[25]</span>
+might attend the "beaten wife." My privileged
+friend went accordingly, and visited at the same
+time all the women of the household. They received
+him in a very friendly manner: some of them proved
+nearly white.</p>
+
+<p><i>12th.</i>&mdash;This day I finished my Kailouee vocabulary,
+which contains about a thousand words. I
+have never yet collected so large a quantity of materials
+of any of the languages of Africa. I carefully
+packed up my vocabulary for England, and got it
+ready, with other matters, to send by the first
+opportunity.</p>
+
+<p>Dr. Overweg has again visited the belaboured
+wife this morning, and reports her to be improving.
+The Sultan seems now to repent what he has done,
+and is endeavouring to obtain forgiveness by kind
+and courteous behaviour.</p>
+
+<p>There was a great deal of wind to day, but it did
+not come in puffs, endangering our tents. I sometimes
+wonder, however, how the flimsy huts of which
+part of Tintalous is composed are not swept away.
+They are made of the dry stalk of that excellent
+herb bou rekabah, called in Kailouee <i>afada</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>13th.</i>&mdash;No news stirring to-day; nothing said of
+razzias; so much the better. We are living very
+quietly here, and the climate agrees with me extremely
+well. Some of our people, however, are
+sick.</p>
+
+<p><i>14th.</i>&mdash;The mornings continue cold; 65&deg; outside
+the tent, and a few degrees higher inside. This<a name="page26" id="page26"></a><span class="pageno">[26]</span>
+fresh weather, no doubt, accounts for my good
+health.</p>
+
+<p>According to a Tibboo merchant now here, and
+going with our caravan, the people of Wada&iuml; would
+receive a Christian well, and allow him to visit their
+country. He represents Wada&iuml; as a very rocky
+region, like Aheer, with two large rivers in it running
+from south to north&mdash;not season streams, but
+continual. He says that the people are all blacks,
+and a very tall race. They have a language of their
+own, which is difficult to learn. Warrah is the
+capital. The natives drink a great deal of <i>bouza</i>,
+and are nearly always intoxicated. Such is a summary
+account of Wada&iuml; from the mouth of a Tibboo
+geographer.</p>
+
+<p>This morning, Madame En-Noor sent me by
+Zangheema a pair of pewter earrings, in exchange
+for some rings. It is extremely difficult to make a
+good bargain with these people. With respect to
+our merchandise, it all sells lower here than we paid
+for it at Mourzuk. The profits come from the
+purchase of slaves. A burnouse of forty mahboubs
+will sell in Soudan for little more than its cost, if
+dollars or money is to be given; but if slaves are
+taken in exchange, three slaves, perhaps, may be
+obtained, which, in Tripoli, may be sold at forty or
+fifty dollars each. Hence the profit of the Soudan
+commerce. The article which yields the greatest
+profit is loaf sugar, which, costing half a dollar in
+Mourzuk, is said to sell for a full dollar in Bornou.
+<a name="page27" id="page27"></a><span class="pageno">[27]</span>
+To be sure there is all the risk and the heavy freight
+of such an article, especially if conveyed up during
+the rainy season.</p>
+
+<p>I wrote yesterday a despatch to Government,
+requesting letters of recommendation to be sent up
+to me in Kordofan, pointing out the route of Egypt
+as the probable one by which I shall return to the
+Mediterranean. I had a long dispute with Overweg
+about the letter <i>ghain</i>, which he persists in pronouncing
+like a strong <i>k</i>. Yusuf was called in,
+and declared that the <i>ghain</i> was the letter which
+distinguished Arabic from all other languages. In
+Kailouee Tuarick there is no <i>kaf</i> or <i>ghain</i>. These
+Berber dialects have, however, the hard <i>g</i> in a
+thousand words, and have also the <i>k</i> in a great
+number of cases, but the hard <i>g</i> and the <i>t</i> are the
+consonants most frequently occurring. The Haussa
+has also the <i>g</i> hard, as in <i>m&#259;g&#259;ree</i>, "good;" and a
+great number of words with the sound <i>tsh</i>, as <i>doutshee</i>,
+a stone or mountain.</p>
+
+<p>The Fellatah language is said to resemble the
+Kailouee; in other words, to be a Berber dialect.
+If this be the case, the Fellatah people are probably
+of Berber extraction, and not Arab, as they are vulgarly
+supposed to be. This is a question requiring
+still further investigation. Others, again, say that
+the Fellatah language is quite different from the
+Tuarick. Overweg thinks Islamism was introduced
+into Bornou by the Shoua Arabs, who are<a name="page28" id="page28"></a><span class="pageno">[28]</span>
+found in Bornou in great numbers. The Fellatah,
+he thinks, received Islamism by way of Timbuctoo,
+from Moors and Arabs trading to that city from
+Morocco. There is considerable probability in both
+these opinions.</p>
+
+<p><i>15th.</i>&mdash;Four or five days after the approaching
+Eed, or festival, half the people of Tintalous will go
+for salt, and the other half prepare for their annual
+journey to Soudan with En-Noor.</p>
+
+<p>The inhabitants of Damerghou are reported to
+be half "<i>Kohlan</i>," blacks, and half Kailouees. It
+is the Kailouees in the neighbourhood of Damerghou
+who infest the borders and routes of Bornou.
+En-Noor is now very quiet, and there is a chance
+that he will not come down upon me for more
+money.</p>
+
+<p>According to the Fezzanees, Tuat is thirty days
+from Aisou and thirty-three from Taghajeet (short
+days). Gh&acirc;t is forty short and thirty long days from
+Tintalous or Asoudee. Bilma is fourteen long and
+seven short days from Tintalous or Asoudee. There
+is no direct route from this (Tintalous) to Timbuctoo;
+from Sakkatou there is, however, a short
+route to Timbuctoo, and it is said to be a safe one.
+The number of days here mentioned are merely
+general numbers; they vary according to the good
+state of the camels, or the disposition of the people,
+or certain accidents on the road.</p>
+
+<p>The evening of the feast of the "Descent of<a name="page29" id="page29"></a><span class="pageno">[29]</span>
+the Koran from Heaven," all good Muslims ought
+to sit up all night to read the Koran, through and
+through again.</p>
+
+<p>There is a curious commerce of y&#259;m&#259;ne&eacute;, or
+agate stones, in Soudan. These y&#259;m&#259;ne&eacute; are originally
+brought from the eastern coast of Africa, from
+and near Mombas (Mozambique), where they pass
+as money, like the cowries. From Mombas they
+are carried, by the Muscat traders, to Yamen, and
+thence to Mekka; in which place they are blessed,
+and rendered doubly precious. From Mekka they
+are brought to Egypt, and from Egypt to Mourzuk;
+from which point they are distributed all over this
+part of Africa, and the souk of Kanou is stocked
+with them. They are much esteemed by all classes
+of the inhabitants of the interior of Africa, and are
+worn equally by the men and women.</p>
+
+<p>In this commerce we see the round-about-way
+in which some articles are conveyed for sale. If
+there were a road from Mombas direct to Bornou,
+this agate would be cheap enough. But then,
+perhaps, it would not be esteemed or valued at half
+its present cost. It would not be blessed at Mekka,
+and so lose all its talismanic and mysterious power.
+The name is derived from Yaman, evidently from
+the first country in Arabia, to which they were
+brought originally from Africa.</p>
+
+<p>According to Overweg, Madame En-Noor is still
+very unwell with her lip. It is cut right across
+under her nose, penetrating to the gums; she is,<a name="page30" id="page30"></a><span class="pageno">[30]</span>
+nevertheless, very lively, and is always pestering
+Overweg to read the fatah with, or marry a young
+girl, one of her relations. She endeavours to warm
+my worthy friend to comply with her match-making
+wishes by luxurious descriptions of the beauties of
+the proffered bride.</p>
+
+<p>As soon as the people hear I have a wife in
+Tripoli, they begin to ask how many children I have
+got. On receiving for answer, "None," they are
+greatly astonished, and ask me the reason of so
+strange a matrimonial phenomenon.</p>
+
+<p>This evening another fine meteor appeared in
+the south-east. Its head was like a blazing star,
+and it left behind it a train of sparkling light and
+flame. There were also numbers of smaller meteors.</p>
+
+<p><i>16th.</i>&mdash;The morning of the Eed. According to
+the Fezzanees, prayers are soon ended; because,
+they say, "these Kailouees know nothing of their
+religion."</p>
+
+<p>The Fezzanees asked me to hoist the British flag;
+to which I replied, "No; the flag belongs to
+the Queen, but I will give you a little powder for
+your matchlocks." All these Mahommedan feasts
+are celebrated on the northern coast of Africa by
+the discharge of gunpowder.</p>
+
+<p>No certain information can be obtained of the
+route from Zinder to Sakkatou, in this place. The
+people only say the present Sultan is not so strong
+as was his father; thereby intimating that the routes
+are not so secure as formerly.</p>
+
+<p><a name="page31" id="page31"></a><span class="pageno">[31]</span></p>
+
+<p>It is usual for the inhabitants of Tintalous to
+visit those of Asarara on the morning of the present
+feast. About sixty men, natives of this place, accompanied
+by a dozen Moors from Tripoli and Mourzuk,
+went, accordingly, to Asarara this morning. Then
+a number of the people of Asarara returned with
+them. Yusuf remarked, with some surprise, that
+even the women went out to pray, about forty in
+number. So that it would seem the Kailouees
+educate their women in religion more than the
+Muslims of the coast.</p>
+
+<p>The most interesting event to us, however, this
+morning, was the arrival of the boat from Seloufeeat.
+Our servants were very quick in their return.
+They came all night, to avoid any further attempts
+to carry off the camels. They were all alone. I
+welcomed the return of the boat as I would that of
+an old friend.</p>
+
+<p>There was no firing this evening, as was expected,
+En-Noor being very unwell-suffering rheumatism
+and fever.</p>
+
+<p>The most agreeable sight in all these Mahommedan
+feasts is to see all the people dressed out in
+their finery. The merchants have appeared in
+splendid burnouses, all more or less in good humour.
+The slaughtering of the sheep to-day was the dirtiest
+part of the business. All here on such occasions
+play the part of butchers-men, women, and children;
+and all attack, stab, skin, and maul the poor<a name="page32" id="page32"></a><span class="pageno">[32]</span>
+animals, in a way frightful to behold. The environs
+of the town were turned into dirty slaughter-houses.</p>
+
+<p><i>17th.</i>&mdash;I have determined to purchase no more
+things from the Sfaxee at present. He makes me
+pay double price. It will be better to wait and see
+what can be done at Zinder. An infidel traveller,
+who is known to be in possession of any property, is
+sure in these countries to be looked upon as a milch-cow.
+Does not "the book," according to the vulgar
+opinion, authorise the faithful to take our lives?
+"Our purses are more lawful."</p>
+
+<p>The festival being over, I went to pay my
+respects to Sultan En-Noor. He is much better in
+health than yesterday, but has still a bad cold, and
+continues to blow his nose and wipe it&mdash;pardon the
+<i>na&iuml;ve</i> statement&mdash;with the sole of one of his sandals!
+The action struck me as rather uncleanly and undignified
+in a prince; but Kailouees are not punctilious.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Gagliuffi had mentioned to me that he
+had given assistance to some shepherds who were
+begging their way to Soudan. One of these poor
+fellows had come to see the Sultan. He seemed,
+indeed, miserably poor, but tried to hide the fact,
+saying to them and Yusuf: "I have news for you;
+now I am your friend, as I was a friend to the
+Consul in Mourzuk." He was quite a young man,
+and excited my compassion.</p>
+
+<p>In the afternoon I received a visit from En-Noor,<a name="page33" id="page33"></a><span class="pageno">[33]</span>
+with a whole train of his people. The Shereef
+was absent. The Sultan came especially to see
+the boat, the pieces of which were put together
+that he might know its shape and size. Yusuf then
+drew for him a ship with all sails set, on a piece of
+paper. It was very well done; and excited the
+applause of my visitors. I treated them, as usual,
+with pickles, marmalade, and tea. Among other
+things I showed En-Noor the broad arrow, or government
+mark, on many of our things; as the guns,
+and pistols, tent, bags, and biscuits, which greatly
+surprised him.</p>
+
+<p>The Sheikh was in good spirits, and was pleased
+with his visit. I sent him during the day a piece of
+dark blue cotton print for a pillowcase. This little
+present delighted him much. I am much hampered
+with the "princesses," who first sent to buy sugar,
+and then to beg, forgetting to buy.</p>
+
+<p>We have a Tuat Tuarick changing camels for
+slaves now in Tintalous. This man belongs to the
+tribe called Sgomara, if I have caught the name
+correctly.</p>
+
+<p><i>18th.</i>&mdash;I rose early, having had a bad headache
+during the night through eating meat in the middle
+of the day. Whatever is eaten in the middle of the
+day must be taken very sparingly. I believe the
+greater part of the diseases with which foreigners
+in these countries are afflicted arise from want of
+sufficient attention to diet. We must take great
+care of our health just as we are entering Soudan.<a name="page34" id="page34"></a><span class="pageno">[34]</span>
+The weather is still cool, especially in the morning.
+The prevailing wind during these last twenty days
+has been E.N.E., which is very refreshing. The
+Moorish merchants pretend that in Soudan it is now
+very cold.</p>
+
+<p>I received a visit from the young Shereef, whose
+conversation smacked a good deal of a disagreeable
+curiosity respecting my movements and intentions
+in Central Africa. I therefore gave him a very
+ordinary and cool welcome. This fellow has been
+here some time, and never offered to pay us a visit
+before. En-Noor has been feeding him during his
+stay. He displayed a good deal of shrewdness, and
+is well acquainted with the Christians of the Mediterranean.
+He is going to visit his brother in
+Zinder, and then returns to Tripoli by the way of
+Bornou and Mourzuk. Like all these shereefs, or
+marabouts, he pretended that had he been with us,
+or had we travelled with him from Mourzuk to
+Tintalous, no one would have dared to molest
+us; an assertion wholly false, for the Tuaricks
+care little for marabouts when they are bent on
+plunder.</p>
+
+<p>A young woman has just arrived from a distant
+village, with the express object of procuring from
+the Taleb (Overweg) a medicine to produce abortion:
+she says she has been gadding, "barra" (out
+of her mother's house), and is frightened lest she
+should get a good beating. On Overweg's refusing
+to give her any such medicine she burst out into<a name="page35" id="page35"></a><span class="pageno">[35]</span>
+a pathetic lamentation, and talked loudly of what
+her parent would do to her. Young ladies often
+think of their mothers a little too late under these
+circumstances.</p>
+
+<p>A slave of the Sultan of Aghadez arrived this
+morning, in six days from the capital, to inquire
+after the health of En-Noor. He brings no particular
+news, but says he saw Barth at Aghadez.</p>
+
+<p>"Man is to man the surest, deadliest foe," has
+been quoted from the poet as most applicable to
+the moral and social state of Africa. It may truly
+be said to be our case, for hitherto we have suffered
+little in this town except from men. Looking
+also around us, the people suffer less from the arid
+country which they inhabit than from the violence
+which they inflict one upon another.</p>
+
+<p>I learned from Yusuf yesterday evening, that
+for every dollar I take from the Sfaxee, if I pay in
+Mourzuk, I must give two. I was greatly afflicted
+at this positive declaration, but scarcely believe it;
+if it, however, prove to be the case, I must by all
+means find money in Soudan. It will be a hard
+fight, indeed, to keep down the expenses of this
+expedition; however, every effort must be employed
+to effect this desirable object.</p>
+
+<p>M&#259;r&#257;dee, I learn, is three days west from Tesaoua;
+and this latter place is two from Zinder.
+There is another village, called Gazawa, one day
+south of Tesaoua. The inhabitants of these places
+are half Mahommedans and half pagans; the latter<a name="page36" id="page36"></a><span class="pageno">[36]</span>
+do not offer human sacrifices; their religious rites
+consist principally in worshipping trees, to which
+they sacrifice at certain seasons. The Fellatahs
+are always at war with the people of M&#259;r&#257;dee, but
+Gouber is at peace with Sakkatou. In M&#259;r&#257;dee
+there is one large stone-and-mud house for the
+Sultan; all the rest of the houses are bell-shaped
+huts. The place has a numerous population.
+Tesaoua is also independent and self-governed, as
+are most of the places hereabouts.</p>
+
+<p>I had a visit from two itinerant schoolmasters,
+natives of Bornou. From these I learned that there
+does exist a little education amongst the Kailouees.
+There is a village near called Amurgeen, three hours
+from Tintalous, where children are sent from all the
+places around, so that it forms a species of college
+or university. It is to this college that En-Noor
+sends his sons and grandsons. These itinerant
+pedagogues are negroes; and it is certainly a
+curious circumstance that from Central Africa instruction
+should migrate northwards. But the Kailouees
+have little pride in this respect; although
+boasting of the name of Tuaricks, and accounting
+themselves <i>white</i> people, or allied with the whites,
+they do not scruple to receive education from the
+negroes of Bornou, whilst certainly it would be
+very easy to have Kailouee schoolmasters.</p>
+
+<p>I heard from my friend Tibbaou that En-Noor's
+territory in Tesaoua is simply a village at some
+distance from the medeeneh, or city, where there<a name="page37" id="page37"></a><span class="pageno">[37]</span>
+is a native and independent sultan of some
+power. His territory in Damerghou is also a mere
+village. Nevertheless, the possession of these places
+extends the political influence of the Kailouees in
+Soudan. The neighbourhood of Damerghou, especially
+the western side, seems celebrated for a tribe,
+or factions of tribes, consisting of bad Tuaricks.
+This race is evidently spreading in Soudan; there
+are great numbers in Gouber and the countries near.</p>
+
+<p>I purchased from the itinerant pedagogues of
+Bornou two of their ink-bottles, which are made
+of small calabashes. They wrote for me some
+specimens of their penmanship, a charm, <i>fatah</i>, or
+first chapter of the Koran. They wrote and formed
+their letters sideways, as some lawyers' clerks do in
+England.</p>
+
+<p>Dambaba Makersee took the liberty of informing
+me to-day, as if I did not know it before, that all
+the things of us Christians were considered by the
+Kailouees generally as common property, and that
+whoever could lay hold of any ought to do so without
+qualm or scruple; but, he added, when you
+arrive in Zinder, all will be changed. Let us hope
+so, <i>Inshallah</i>!</p>
+
+<p>Strings of charms are worn by the men occasionally
+under the arm, or suspended over the
+shoulders, as well as round the neck. The charm
+or armlet of the Moors and Tuaricks corresponds
+with the <i>Fetish</i> of the ancient Kohlan, people of
+<a name="page38" id="page38"></a><span class="pageno">[38]</span>
+Soudan, and of the present negro races on the
+western coast.</p>
+
+<p>I finished the statistics of the towns and villages
+of Asben&mdash;after all, a very imperfect affair. Nevertheless,
+it is the best which I could make from my
+materials.</p>
+
+<p>En-Noor paid me a visit in the morning, and
+stopped gossiping two hours. From him I learnt that
+the Fellatah language has no relation to the Arabic
+or Tuarick, but is quite a language peculiar in itself.
+He also informed us that the Gouberites were still
+at war with the Fellatahs of Sakkatou; that they
+were united with the people of Maradee, ancient
+Kohlans like themselves, and that this united force
+had been lately gaining their lost ground against
+the new Muslim powers in Soudan. En-Noor
+seems to favour the re-establishment of these people
+against the Fellatahs. The latter he naturally hates,
+on account of their attempts on the independence of
+the Kailouees, and their perpetual intrigues at
+Aghadez.</p>
+
+<p>With regard to Tesaoua, En-Noor pretends that
+he founded this city. His statement is singularly
+suggestive and picturesque in its simplicity. He says
+that he met, on the spot where Tesaoua now stands,
+a forlorn man, with only two slaves.</p>
+
+<p>"What are you doing?" he said to the man.</p>
+
+<p>"Nothing," the man replied. "What can I do,
+naked as I am, with myself and two slaves?"</p>
+
+<p><a name="page39" id="page39"></a><span class="pageno">[39]</span></p>
+
+<p>"Oh!" rejoined En-Noor; "stop a minute, and
+I will bring you a multitude of people, and we
+together will make a large city." En-Noor kept
+his word, and brought a multitude of Kailouees,
+Kohlans, and their slaves. Now Tesaoua is a
+mighty city, and En-Noor has got a small town of
+his own near it, mostly peopled by his dependants.
+Such is the foundation of many African cities;
+these places springing up as mushrooms, and disappearing
+as soon.</p>
+
+<p>En-Noor also pretends, that through his father
+he is heir to the thrones of the ancient Kohlans,
+about Kashna, Gouber, and Maradee, and that
+he ought to come into possession after the death
+of the present occupants. This, I should think,
+is incorrect; but his highness has undoubtedly
+great political influence in those countries. We
+learn that several of the men of Tintalous have
+wives and families in Damerghou and Tesaoua, but
+none of them have large families&mdash;only one or two
+children.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+
+<p><a name="page40" id="page40"></a><span class="pageno">[40]</span></p>
+
+
+<h2><a name="chapter3" id="chapter3"></a>CHAPTER III.</h2>
+
+
+<p>News from Barth&mdash;Camels restored&mdash;Expensive Journey&mdash;Proposed
+Migration of Males&mdash;Supply of Slaves, whence&mdash;A new
+Well&mdash;Pagans and Christians&mdash;Tibboo Manners&mdash;The great
+Gong&mdash;When is a Tibboo hungry?&mdash;Hunger-belt&mdash;Queen of
+England in the Sahara&mdash;The Shanbah&mdash;A hasty Marriage&mdash;Sa&iuml;d's
+new Wife&mdash;Wild Cauliflowers&mdash;Tolerance of the Kailouees&mdash;Men
+go to fetch Salt from Bilma&mdash;Approach of Dr.
+Barth&mdash;Lion's Mouth&mdash;Tibboos and Kailouees&mdash;Mysteries of
+Tintalous&mdash;Fewness of Men in Aheer&mdash;Trees preserved in the
+Valley&mdash;Bright Stars&mdash;Method of Salutation&mdash;Purposed
+Stars&mdash;Kailouee Character&mdash;Champagne at Tintalous&mdash;The
+Wells.</p>
+
+
+<p><i>Oct. 22d.</i>&mdash;A letter was received this morning from
+Dr. Barth. It appears that the treaty will not be
+signed, nor even presented to the Sultan.
+En-Noor paid me a visit, as usual, this morning.
+I presented to his highness some old boxes, with
+which he ordered a door to be made for his palace.
+His politeness does not cease, and the graciousness
+with which he receives my presents is really remarkable.</p>
+
+<p>The man sent after our camels brought back
+my poor white maharee, and demanded ten dollars
+(as good as twenty to me) for his trouble. I refused
+<a name="page41" id="page41"></a><span class="pageno">[41]</span>
+to give them, preferring to let him have the camel,
+which is hardly worth ten dollars. This manner of
+recovering our lost or stolen camels amounts to
+buying them over again. But it has been our
+misfortune all along, that our friends, and those
+who profess to be such, and all who attempt to aid
+us&mdash;every one of them, have profited by our losses,
+and the disasters which have befallen us. This
+dispute has been referred to En-Noor, and they have
+accepted five dollars, which I offered them.</p>
+
+<p>I this day made out the statement of the principal
+items of expenditure which the expedition has
+incurred from Mourzuk to Tintalous, including the
+escort to Zinder. It amounts to the enormous sum
+of three thousand mahboubs, or about six hundred
+pounds sterling!! If we do not proceed better than
+this on the future part of the journey, the expedition
+will at any rate be bankrupt and ruined for want of
+funds.</p>
+
+<p><i>23d.</i>&mdash;Yusuf and I brought before Overweg
+this morning the necessity of his assisting in relieving
+the Government from the double payment of
+the sums advanced by the Sfaxee. He agreed that
+it was highly important to save this money, and
+promised to place his goods at my disposal for sale
+in Soudan.</p>
+
+<p>On the departure of the caravan for Zinder and
+Kanou every male inhabitant will leave Tintalous,
+some starting with it and others going for salt,
+leaving only the women and children behind. This<a name="page42" id="page42"></a><span class="pageno">[42]</span>
+is considered by the Moors as preferable to leaving
+a few men behind, because these few would occasion
+quarrels amongst the women, and, besides, excite
+the jealousy of the absent husbands.</p>
+
+<p>Most of the men who go with us to Damerghou
+and forward to Tesaoua will find another wife
+and family in both these places. This is a regular
+emigration of males, not the accidental departure of
+fathers and husbands. These gentlemen pass half
+the year in Soudan and half in Aheer. The system
+does not appear to be advantageous to the increase
+of population: the wives of these birds of passage
+hardly bear two children a-piece. Indeed there are
+very few children in Tintalous. We have not yet
+sufficient data or experience for a conclusion on this
+part of statistics; but, up to the present, all that we
+have seen in Africa during this journey exhibits it as
+singularly miserable and destitute of population.
+We can hear of no man, not even a sultan with his
+fifty female slaves, having more than four or five
+children. As for the poor, one or two are all that
+they can bring up.</p>
+
+<p>Whence, then, comes the supply of slaves? So
+far as this part of Africa is concerned I may observe,
+in reply, that the annual number of slaves
+brought is exceedingly limited, amounting only to a
+few thousands. When we get nearer the western
+coast, we shall probably be able to account for the
+supplies of slaves which are transported across the
+Atlantic.</p>
+
+<p><a name="page43" id="page43"></a><span class="pageno">[43]</span></p>
+
+<p>This afternoon a well was commenced near our
+tents. The digging of a well is an important matter;
+his highness En-Noor, therefore, vouchsafed his
+presence. A number of the excavators came to me
+to beg for sugar. I brought out a piece of white
+loaf sugar, and broke it into thirty pieces or so; then
+ordered one of them to divide it fairly amongst
+themselves: but this was impossible. Anything like
+fairness amongst the Kailouees, all of whom are
+addicted to thieving (a habit acquired from Soudan),
+was out of the question. As soon as I rose from
+the ground, after breaking the sugar on a leathern
+apron, there was a general rush upon it, and some
+got a great deal and others none. Was not this a
+fine miniature picture of mankind?</p>
+
+<p><i>24th.</i>&mdash;En-Noor paid me a very early visit, and
+drank coffee. I heard that a courier to Mourzuk
+would cost forty dollars. I begin to learn a little
+Soudanese; there are some beautiful soft words in
+it. Yusuf says there is no name for God in this
+language; but his statement requires further examination.</p>
+
+<p>From what we learn respecting Barth's reception
+at Aghadez, it would appear that the people
+were disposed to look upon him with the same complacency
+as they are wont to regard the pagans, or
+En-sara as they call them, of Gouber and Maradee.
+Indeed, the Tanelkums and Kailouees consider that
+we shall be well received by our brethren, the pagans
+of Soudan.</p>
+
+<p><a name="page44" id="page44"></a><span class="pageno">[44]</span></p>
+
+<p>Here is a most extraordinary trait of the barbarity
+of the Tibboos. It often happens that they
+are out foraging for twenty days without finding
+anything to eat. If they light upon the bones of a
+dead camel, they take them and pound them to
+dust; this done, they bleed their own living camels
+(maharees) from the eye, and of the blood and
+powdered bones they make a paste, which they
+eat! This is somewhat analogous to what Bruce
+relates of the Abyssinians cutting out beefsteaks
+from the rump of a live bullock. The Tibboos
+possess the finest maharees; and the breed in the rest
+of the Sahara is always being improved or kept up
+by a constant supply from their country.</p>
+
+<p>I continue to supply his highness En-Noor with
+either tea or coffee every day. I sent him some
+early this morning. He is a greedy old dog, and
+will not buy a loaf of sugar because I will not give
+it him at the price of Mourzuk, and thus lose the
+freight. I hold out, and we have sold him none for
+the present.</p>
+
+<p>Overweg is making a small commercial lexicon
+of the things brought to the market of Kanou: a
+most excellent idea. I myself intend, if I go to
+Kanou, to make a list of all the things I find in the
+Souk, with some account of their produce and
+mode of importation into that mart.</p>
+
+<p>The great gong sounded throughout the village
+this afternoon, to give note of preparation to all the
+people, that every one of the males must be ready
+<a name="page45" id="page45"></a><span class="pageno">[45]</span>
+to leave this place in the course of three or four
+days. The Sheikh says he is determined to leave
+in three days, whether the people come from
+Aghadez or not. Yusuf laid before En-Noor this
+evening the necessity of our sending a courier to
+Mourzuk, stating that we had nothing left. His
+highness pitied our case, and said he would look
+about for a courier; observing, "The Consul has
+need of much money and many presents in Soudan."
+He said, also, that he would recommend us to go to
+Bornou.</p>
+
+<p><i>25th.</i>&mdash;The days are now pretty hot, and the
+nights correspondingly cool. We have a good deal
+of wind. I wrote a letter to Drs. Overweg and
+Barth jointly, calling upon them to assist me in
+case the Sfaxee would not wait for his money until
+the return of the courier. Dr. Overweg consents.
+I wrote out the Tuarick alphabet.</p>
+
+<p>The account of the Tibboos pounding the camels'
+bones and bleeding their animals to make paste, is
+confirmed by the Gatronee of the Germans.<a name="anchor4" id="anchor4"></a><a href="#footnote4"
+class="fnanchor">[4]</a> He
+says, moreover, that this is the way in which they
+proceed. Every Tibboo must fast three days before
+he thinks about eating. If on the fourth day he
+do not arrive at the <i>belad</i>, or country, he then
+takes his left sandal from his foot, and stews or
+soddens it, making something of a soup. These
+sandals being leather, or untanned hide, it is, perhaps,
+<a name="page46" id="page46"></a><span class="pageno">[46]</span>
+not impossible to make of them a palatable
+soup! If on the fifth day he find no village, he
+then devours the sandal of his right foot. After
+this, still not finding a village, he collects bleached
+camels' bones and bleeds his camel as before mentioned.</p>
+
+<p>A Tibboo always has a girdle with seven knots,
+and when travelling hard takes in, as the sailors
+would say, a reef every day; if after seven days
+he find nothing to eat, he is considered hungry
+and unfortunate. The three Tuaricks who followed
+us from the well of Aisou declared that they
+had had nothing to eat for fifteen days; and there
+cannot be a doubt of the fact, that both the Tibboos
+and the Tuaricks can, on a pinch, remain without
+food for a considerable time&mdash;say ten or twelve
+days.</p>
+
+<p>A Tuatee, who knows Algiers well, arrived here
+this afternoon, and is going with us to Zinder.
+He brings an extraordinary report about the copy
+of the treaty which I left with Haj Ahmed at Gh&acirc;t.
+He says he heard it read, and from it learned that
+"the Queen of England is now in Tripoli, and
+wishes to come and live in Gh&acirc;t, and has offered
+to buy half Gh&acirc;t." Such is the nature of Saharan
+reports.</p>
+
+<p>More authentic intelligence arrived to-day by a
+courier, who made the journey from Gh&acirc;t to Seloufeeat
+in fourteen days&mdash;sufficiently quick. This
+courier brings a warning from Khanouhen to the<a name="page47" id="page47"></a><span class="pageno">[47]</span>
+caravans now proceeding to Gh&acirc;t, not to come in
+twos or threes, as they were wont, but to come
+altogether, as he fears reprisals from the Shanbah
+and the Haghar.</p>
+
+<p>The history of the thing is this:&mdash;A tribe of
+Tuaricks has always acted as the guides of the
+Shanbah in their foraging parties&mdash;on the Tuarick
+territory, for example&mdash;always pointing out to them
+the camels of the people of Gh&acirc;t. Khanouhen
+has chastised this treacherous tribe, destroying a
+great many of them; but the Shanbah and Haghar
+not choosing to desert their old friends, have
+determined to take vengeance upon the Gh&acirc;t
+Tuaricks. It is this revenge which Khanouhen
+fears. He anticipates a combined attack on the
+caravans. The wonder is how these routes are
+kept open at all, when these distant tribes, who
+have no interest in the commerce that moves
+along them, are notorious for their predatory
+feelings and education. It is now said that the
+Fadeea, our friends on the frontier, are in league
+with the Shanbah against the Gh&acirc;t Tuaricks.</p>
+
+<p>En-Noor, it appears, had sent his son to salute
+the new Sultan of Aghadez, and to assist in establishing
+or placing him on his throne. He got as
+far as Asoudee, when he fell in love with a pretty
+woman of the town, and at once married her, proceeding
+no farther on his mission. Yesterday evening
+a man arrived mounted on a maharee, bringing
+with him all the finery of the bride, which he exhibited
+<a name="page48" id="page48"></a><span class="pageno">[48]</span>
+to the people, riding about the town! All
+were greatly astonished at the splendour of the
+bride's dowry. Are not these fit materials for an
+Arabian Night's entertainment? My servant, Sa&iuml;d,
+also married the other evening, but not so romantically;
+taking up with the divorced wife of another
+freed black. I heard nothing of it until all was
+over. The parties guessed rightly that I should
+take no interest in the matter, or rather disapprove
+of it, as the fellow has abandoned his own and
+natural wife. This divorced negress, who has at
+last found a master, has gone the round of all the
+tents since she has parted from her former husband,
+and is a little intriguing wretch. The Sfaxee and
+Yusuf countenanced the affair, but kept it quite unknown
+to me. They, however, fetched Overweg,
+and presented him with a portion of the marriage-supper&mdash;bazeen.
+I felt much disgusted on hearing
+of the affair. The old wife is a native of Kanemboo,
+and is going thither. She will, of course,
+gladly take leave of her husband and this young
+wife and rival. Marriage is an excessively loose
+tie here, at any rate amongst the poor. The rich
+pretend to respect marriage.</p>
+
+<p>We have all done little in clearing up difficulties,
+or obtaining correct information of the
+Tuaricks of the Sahara. No good informants are
+to be found. From the Sheikhs of Gh&acirc;t it is quite
+impossible to learn anything. We hope to get
+some information from a Tanelkum now going with<a name="page49" id="page49"></a><span class="pageno">[49]</span>
+us. Many tribes have been mentioned, casually;
+but the principal are&mdash;the three great tribes of
+Gh&acirc;t, those to which Khanouhen, Shafou, Jabour,
+and Hateetah belong&mdash;a tribe in Janet&mdash;the Haghar
+of Ghamama&mdash;the Isokamara, located on the
+Tuat route from Aisou&mdash;the Tanelkums of Fezaan&mdash;the
+Maraga, a breed produced from the slaves of
+the Haghar and the Sorgou of Timbuctoo.</p>
+
+<p><i>26th.</i>&mdash;The sky is now frequently cloudy, but
+no rain falls. The valley of Tintalous is looking
+fresh, on account of the great quantity of wild cauliflower
+overspreading its surface, called by the Arabs
+<i>liftee</i>. This word <i>liftee</i>, is evidently derived from
+<i>lift</i>, "turnip." The vegetable grows in lines and
+circles, determined apparently by the action of the
+water, which deposits the seeds. No use is made of
+this wild cabbage; it is very bitter, and no animals
+even eat it.</p>
+
+<p>En-Noor paid me a visit this morning before I
+was up; he drank some coffee, and went off to see
+his camels. The Tanelkums were quite wrong in
+their surmisings about En-Noor and his religious
+fanaticism. He has shown less fanaticism than any
+prince with whom we have had yet anything to do
+during the present journey. All the Kailouees of
+Tintalous are equally tolerant. We have now
+three quasi-princes, or sons of sultans, in Tintalous,
+besides the son of En-Noor. We have Mousa
+Waled Haj-Ali, who takes our despatches to Mourzuk,
+with Yusuf my interpreter, and a Tibboo, the<a name="page50" id="page50"></a><span class="pageno">[50]</span>
+son of the Sultan of Kou&iuml;var. As we proceed onwards,
+princes and sons of princes will thicken upon us.</p>
+
+<p><i>27th.</i>&mdash;I packed up and sent off all my despatches
+to Mourzuk, together with a few trifling
+things for my poor wife, by the hand of Mousa
+Waled Haj-Ali, the virtual Sheikh of the Tanelkums.</p>
+
+<p><i>28th.</i>&mdash;All the male inhabitants, with the exception
+of five or six, have gone off this morning to
+fetch salt from Bilma. They return here in the
+course of a month, and the greater part of the salt
+is transported from hence to Soudan by the next
+caravan. We have heard of our friends at Aghadez.
+They are expected here in a few days. The new
+Sultan of Aghadez is said&mdash;but there is little accuracy
+in these desert reports&mdash;to have gone on an
+expedition west, to settle some differences between
+some tribes in arms against one another. The
+people also say that the new Sultan is "hungry,"
+and is glad of such an opportunity to get "something
+to eat." This is the way in which they would
+describe a Chancellor of the Exchequer planning a
+new tax.</p>
+
+<p>Some say the object of the razzia is to chastise
+the Fadeea for attacking us; but still the main object
+is to fill the Sultan's "own hungry belly."
+Such are Asbenouee politics.</p>
+
+<p><i>Bakin-Zakee</i>, the Soudanese name of the Kailouee
+green cap, I know here means the "<i>lion's
+mouth</i>." This is the phrase with which I always<a name="page51" id="page51"></a><span class="pageno">[51]</span>
+salute Zangheema, En-Noor's chief slave; but the
+terms are much more appropriate for his master, as
+intimating his avaricious, nay voracious, disposition.
+Zangheema, however, might be called "K&#259;r&#277;n
+Z&#257;kee," the jackal of the lion, or "the lion's provider,"
+so anxious is he to minister to the voracious
+appetite of his lord.</p>
+
+<p>We have received the news that Dr. Barth is
+near. He is expected to-morrow evening, or early
+next day.</p>
+
+<p><i>29th.</i>&mdash;En-Noor paid me a visit at sunset to-day,
+and talked of how many children people had
+in this country. His highness said he knew a
+sultan in Soudan who had seven hundred children.</p>
+
+<p><i>30th.</i>&mdash;The Gatronee of the Germans confirms
+the report of the circumstance, that, when the Kailouees
+go to the Tibboos to trade for salt, all the
+male Tibboos run away, leaving all the business in
+the hands of the females; which latter, besides
+trading in salt with the Kailouees, make a good
+mercantile speculation with their charms. Each
+woman, in fact, has her Kailouee husband or lover,
+during the carrying on of this singular commerce.
+If the traders catch a single Tibboo man staying
+behind, they at once murder him, with the most
+marked approbation of the Tibboo women. Such is
+the state of connubial fidelity in this part of the
+Sahara.</p>
+
+<p>The Tibboos have been very greatly neglected
+by persons writing on Africa, chiefly on account of<a name="page52" id="page52"></a><span class="pageno">[52]</span>
+the slighting, summary way in which they are
+spoken of by the members of the former English
+expedition to Bornou. They are, however, divided
+into a great number of tribes, are spread over a
+considerable extent of country, and are partly the
+guardians of the Bornou route. We must pay
+them some attention when they come under our
+observation.</p>
+
+<p>There is a man come from Dr. Barth and his
+party. They are expected in the course of forty-eight
+hours. En-Noor is very angry that they do
+not mend their pace. We are all ready to start.
+An immense caravan is waiting for their arrival.</p>
+
+<p><i>31st.</i>&mdash;The people begin to pester me to marry
+another wife in Soudan,&mdash;one very young and with
+large breasts is the kind of article they recommend.</p>
+
+<p>The mysteries of Tintalous are celebrated at the
+well in the evening, under the bright, glowing light
+of Venus, which star is now seen a couple of hours
+above the horizon after sunset. On the margin of
+the well, which is on the other side of the wady, at
+the distance of a quarter of a mile, the damsels of
+Tintalous regularly meet their lovers, and spend
+with them half an hour of sweet communion. Some
+even retire to the shade of a large-spreading tholukh
+near, or behind blocks of rock rising on the edge
+of the valley, and indulge in lawful or unlawful
+embraces. The strangers who come here, the
+Moors of Tripoli and Fezzan, are freely initiated
+into these mysteries.</p>
+
+<p><a name="page53" id="page53"></a><span class="pageno">[53]</span></p>
+
+<p>I am told by our servants, who have been round
+to all the villages or towns in the neighbourhood of
+Tintalous for the purchase of ghaseb, that these
+places, small or large, are none of them equal to
+Tintalous, although the houses are much the same&mdash;bell-shaped
+huts, and the people are of the same
+character. What has greatly astonished our servants
+is the fewness of the men; indeed, in some
+villages they saw no other persons but women and
+children, and scarcely any children. What is the
+cause of this? It would seem that the men are
+consumed by the women. These women bear few
+children, and perhaps this may in part account for,
+if it be not produced by, their excessive licentiousness.
+Yet the men are on the wing a great part of
+the year. The Kailouees, however, wherever they
+go, have their women at hand, and during a journey
+many of them take two or three female slaves.
+How is this superabundant supply of the softer sex
+kept up? If I am noticing a mere temporary phenomenon,
+the destruction of men in the razzias
+may account for the disproportion. Besides, the
+Kailouees are always imparting fresh slaves into
+their country.</p>
+
+<p>The poor people of Tintalous are fed chiefly on
+the pounded grains of the herb <i>bou rekaba</i>. It is a
+real Asbenouee dish. Overweg made a supper of
+it one evening. I tasted it, and find it has a very
+strong flavour of herbs; that is to say, what is commonly
+imagined to be the flavour of herbs in general.<a name="page54" id="page54"></a><span class="pageno">[54]</span>
+The people now go a long way for wood.
+The tholukh-trees of the valley are not allowed to be
+cut down; they are always preserved as a resource
+for the time of drought and dearth, when the flocks
+can find no herbage in the valley. The boughs are
+at such junctures lopped off, and the flocks are fed
+on the leaves. Thus I have seen the goats and
+sheep fed on the tholukh-leaves on the plains of
+Mourzuk, as well as near this place. Another reason
+may induce En-Noor to save the tholukh-trees,&mdash;that
+there may be a perpetual shade and verdure
+in the valley of Tintalous. There are many finer
+valleys than this in Asben, and were the trees not
+preserved, it would be a very barren, unlively spot.</p>
+
+<p>This evening, two hours after sunset, Venus exhibited
+her most splendid phasis: the west, where she
+was setting, about half-an-hour before she disappeared,
+was lit up as if it was moonlight. On concealing
+the planet, the effect produced was that of
+the setting of the moon. Every star was eclipsed
+in the western circle of the heavens, I never saw
+anything before equal to this. I could here fully
+realise the words of Scripture, that the stars were
+made also "to give light upon the earth."</p>
+
+<p>The manner of saluting and shaking hands
+amongst the Kailouees deserves notice: they first
+hold up the right hand with the palm outspread,
+like the Tuaricks of Gh&acirc;t. Afterwards, when more
+companionable and familiar, they take hold of
+hands, and press them lightly some five or six<a name="page55" id="page55"></a><span class="pageno">[55]</span>
+times or more, if great friends, and conclude this
+pressing of the hand with a sort of jerk, drawing
+quickly off each other's hand. In taking hold of
+the hand of your friend, you fit your thumb in the
+circle formed by his thumb and fingers, and every
+time you press his hand, and he presses yours, you
+separate the hands from each other.<a name="anchor5" id="anchor5"></a><a href="#footnote5"
+class="fnanchor">[5]</a></p>
+
+<p><i>Nov. 1st.</i>&mdash;The month has set in with wind,&mdash;not
+gusts, but steady wind, continually blowing from
+E.N.E. It is stated positively that we leave here
+to-morrow morning, whether the people return or
+not from Aghadez. I register all reports as I hear
+them, though perfectly aware that we have not been
+yet quite let into the secret of the singular migration
+in which we are about to bear a part. The greater
+number of the men of Tintalous have gone to
+Bilma in search of salt; and I originally understood
+that the great annual caravan was for the
+transport of this necessary article. Perhaps En-Noor
+means to go slowly on, just to keep us in
+good humour. Our intercourse with the Kailouees
+has taught us to consider them a very mild,
+companionable race. Often indeed, like children,
+I wonder what the Tibboos can see in them to make
+them so desperately afraid, for I am told ten Kailouees
+will frighten away fifty Tibboos of Bilma.
+But the Tibboos of Tibesty are considered a braver
+race. It is worthy of remark, that these cowardly<a name="page56" id="page56"></a><span class="pageno">[56]</span>
+Tibboos have a bad character, and, like most
+cowards, are very treacherous.</p>
+
+<p>I determined not to carry the little box in which
+the two bottles of champagne were packed any
+further; so I, Overweg, Yusuf, and the servants,
+set to work and drank a bottle of it, to the toast,
+"that we might have better luck higher up than
+all have hitherto experienced." The other bottle I
+have stowed away in reserve for the Lake Tchad,
+to drink the health of Her Majesty when we launch
+the boat, if we are fortunate enough to arrive there.</p>
+
+<p>I went to the wells to see the people get water
+this morning. A number of little children came,&mdash;some
+naked, and others with small pieces of leather
+round their loins: they all wore very large necklaces
+of charms sown up in leather bags.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="footnote4" id="footnote4"></a><a href="#anchor4">[4]</a> People are
+called here by the nation, and even town, to which
+they belong, or in which they were born, as sometimes in Europe.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="footnote5" id="footnote5"></a><a href="#anchor5">[5]</a> This mode
+of shaking hands is common among the Fell&acirc;hs of
+Egypt.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p><a name="page57" id="page57"></a><span class="pageno">[57]</span></p>
+
+
+
+<h2><a name="chapter4" id="chapter4"></a>CHAPTER IV.</h2>
+
+<div class="summary">
+<p>Dr. Barth's Journey to Aghadez&mdash;Description of the
+Route&mdash;Tiggedah&mdash;Luxuriant Scenery of Asadah&mdash;Plain of Tarist&mdash;Beautiful
+Valley&mdash;Buddeh&mdash;Small Caravan&mdash;Aghadez&mdash;its
+Inhabitants&mdash;their Occupation&mdash;The great Koku, or Sultan&mdash;Asbenouee
+Revolutions&mdash;Election of a Prince&mdash;Interview&mdash;Ceremony
+of Investiture&mdash;Razzia&mdash;Intricate Political System&mdash;Account
+of Aghadez&mdash;Mosque&mdash;Environs&mdash;Women&mdash;Tribes
+of Asben&mdash;The Targhee Family&mdash;Population of the Gh&acirc;t
+Districts&mdash;of Aheer&mdash;The Oulimad and Tanelkums&mdash;Tribe
+of Janet&mdash;Haghar&mdash;Sagamaram&mdash;Maghatah&mdash;Extent of
+Aheer&mdash;Connexion with the Black Countries&mdash;Mechanism of
+Society in Aheer&mdash;Chieftains&mdash;Tax-gathering&mdash;Food of the
+Kailouees&mdash;Maharees&mdash;Amusements&mdash;Natural Features of
+Asben&mdash;Vegetation&mdash;Cultivation&mdash;Manufactures&mdash;Bags for
+Charms.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>Dr. Barth<a name="anchor6" id="anchor6"></a><a href="#footnote6"
+class="fnanchor">[6]</a> has made a very interesting journey
+to Aghadez. He says the track lies either through
+fine valleys or over mountain-chains cut up by<a name="page58" id="page58"></a><span class="pageno">[58]</span>
+defiles. Here and there were charming spots, green
+with herbage and trees. In going, the shallow
+wells at Eghelloua were found to be full of water;
+but a month later they were all dry. Beyond is the
+Wady Chizolen, overlooked by a mountain that rises
+abruptly to the height of two thousand feet. Then
+comes the valley of Eghellal, with its rivulet, and
+beyond swell the famous mountains of the Baghzem.
+The worthy Doctor seems to have been too much
+occupied in collecting geographical data to preserve
+many picturesque facts by the way. On the third
+day he encamped at Tiggedah, where numerous
+species of trees and bushes tufted the valley, which
+was clothed also, near the margin of its streams,
+with grass as fresh and green as any in Europe.
+At that time, however, the place, with the exception
+of the cooing of wild doves and the cry of a solitary
+antelope, seemed perfectly unvisited by man. Afterwards,
+it was found full of flocks and herds, and
+enlivened by the encampment of a salt-caravan,
+with a string of young camels bound for Aghadez.
+The tribe to whom the valley belongs are nomadic,
+and shift from one place to another, as their fancies
+and necessities suggest. Amidst the trees, however,
+may be seen a small mosque, built of stone and
+roofed with palm-trees.</p>
+
+<p>This agreeable place prefaces the still more
+luxuriant scenery of Asadah, where the vegetation
+is so rich, and the path so shut up by branches, that
+it is difficult to keep on the camel's back. What a
+<a name="page59" id="page59"></a><span class="pageno">[59]</span>
+contrast to the naked deserts of Gh&acirc;t! It was from
+between the rich foliage of this valley that Dr.
+Barth obtained his first glimpses of the majestic
+mountain-chain of Dogem, estimated to attain the
+height of between four and five thousand feet. It is
+the loftiest range in Aheer.</p>
+
+<p>The plain of Erarer-en-Dendemu, which next
+succeeds, is covered with brushwood and low trees,
+and inhabited by lions&mdash;here called the Father of
+the Wilderness. Dr. Barth saw several, as well as
+a kind of ape about the size of a small boy, squatting
+in crowds on the lower hills. Beyond, overhung by
+the mountains of Anderas, is the rocky plain of
+Tarist, famous among the Arabs, as well as the Kailouees,
+on account of the remains of a mosque, indicated
+only by lines of stones on the ground. It was
+founded by a great saint called Sidi Baghdadi,
+and is a general resting-place for caravans. The
+basaltic formation here succeeds the granitic; and
+the plain is covered with loose black stones, about
+the size of a child's head.</p>
+
+<p>Escaping from this rough ground, the travellers
+entered a narrow valley, trenched by a broad watercourse,
+along the sides of which was a thick growth
+of palm-trees. There are two villages in this wady.
+Near one of them slaves were seen yoked to a plough,
+and driven like oxen, by their master. Further
+south the hoe replaces the plough in preparing the
+ground. This valley, inhabited by the Imrad (a
+Targhee tribe), is capable of producing not only<a name="page60" id="page60"></a><span class="pageno">[60]</span>
+ghaseb, but corn, wine, dates, and all kinds of vegetables.
+Fifty gardens adorn, it is said, the neighbourhood
+of Ifargen. But, in general, the rich soil
+is left uncultivated, and is covered by wild and
+sickly vegetation, which checks the progress of the
+traveller.</p>
+
+<p>In Wadi Buddeh grows a prickly plant called
+karengia; and a parasite (<i>griffenee</i>), producing a
+sweet but insipid berry of a red colour. A party of
+five lions were pursued like so many jackals. A small
+caravan of four persons, in Wadi Teffarrakad, were
+making use of four different modes of progression:
+one was on a camel, another on a buffalo, the third
+on a donkey, and the fourth used his own legs. In
+Wady Boghel were the signs of a field of ghaseb
+having existed last year. The ground was covered
+by a sickly wild melon; and in the thick foliage of
+the trees the guinea-hens were cackling. Here Dr.
+Barth saw the first specimen of the baur&eacute; tree,
+the trunk measuring twenty-six feet in circumference,
+and the thick crown rising to the height of
+eighty feet. Here and elsewhere wild beasts were
+observed. The whole country, indeed, abounds in
+lions, wild boars, gazelles, ostriches, and monkeys.</p>
+
+<p>On the seventh day the party reached Aghadez,
+which they entered about an hour after sunset, it
+being the custom in this country never to enter a
+town by day. Aghadez is situated on a hamadah,
+or lofty plateau of sandstone and granite formation.
+Around, although there is no arable soil, a good<a name="page61" id="page61"></a><span class="pageno">[61]</span>
+deal of herbage and wood is found in the depressions
+of the plain. It is not surprising, therefore,
+that this much-talked-of capital is nothing but a
+large village, as indeed are all the other places
+of Aheer, with the exception of Asoudee. Aghadez,
+which is mentioned by Leo Africanus, is said
+by tradition to have been founded or enlarged by
+settlements from the north, consisting of a people
+called Arabs, but probably Berbers, since expelled
+by the Tuaricks. It serves as a sort of rendezvous
+between the Kailouees and the tribes to the south
+and west. A peculiar language (Emghedesie) is
+spoken by the inhabitants in their private intercourse;
+but Haussa is the idiom of trade. There
+are about seven hundred inhabited houses scattered
+among the ruins; and of fifty thousand people who
+must previously have lived within the walls, scarce
+eight thousand remain.<a name="anchor7" id="anchor7"></a><a href="#footnote7"
+class="fnanchor">[7]</a> The inhabitants are partly
+artizans, partly merchants; but few caravans now<a name="page62" id="page62"></a><span class="pageno">[62]</span>
+pass on this route, and commerce with Timbuctoo
+seems altogether to have ceased. The trade that
+exists is entirely in provisions, principally in ghaseb,
+or millet, which is imported from Damerghou.
+The system adopted is entirely one of barter&mdash;the
+Aghadez money consisting of turkedi,<a name="anchor8" id="anchor8"></a><a href="#footnote8"
+class="fnanchor">[8]</a> or dark-coloured
+cotton for female clothing made in Soudan,
+Egyptian leather for sandals, English calico, white
+shawls, cloves, pepper, pearls, &amp;c. All these objects
+are imported, the only manufactures of Aghadez
+being leather-work (sandals and saddles) and coloured
+mats. I do not know what materials are
+used in tanning. The Fezzanee gets assistance, according
+to my fighi, from four trees&mdash;the graut,
+the ethel, the pomegranate, and the essalan. The
+first and last are a species of acacia. Women and
+men work in their houses at the production of these
+articles, and merchants go and purchase <i>&agrave; domicile</i>,
+there being now no shops. There are three market-places
+or bazaars, where prices are very low.</p>
+
+<p>The Sultan of Aghadez, the great Koku Abd-el-Kader,
+does not receive any direct contribution
+towards his revenues, from the people of Aghadez,
+but levies a kind of <i>octroi</i> of ten mithkals on every
+camel-load of goods that enters the town, provisions
+being exempt. He has property of his own, however;
+receives presents at his installation; and can<a name="page63" id="page63"></a><span class="pageno">[63]</span>
+always raise a sum by making a razzia on any
+neighbouring freebooters.</p>
+
+<p>It is a fundamental law in Aheer, that the Sultan
+of Aghadez shall belong to a particular family,
+which is said to derive its origin from Constantinople.
+Therefore when, in consequence of some
+discontent, Abd-el-Kader was deposed last year, the
+malcontents chose a relative, Hamed-el-Argau; but
+he also displeasing, a rival was set up in Makita,
+also of the same family. This caused great confusion,
+and the Walad Suleiman took the opportunity
+to make forays against Aheer. The prudent then
+resolved to restore the old Sultan, and succeeded, as
+I have already said, in their endeavours. When
+Dr. Barth arrived in Aghadez, the investiture was
+about to take place. The Sultan is chosen by the
+Kilgris and Iteesan tribes, who nourish a deadly
+hatred against their kindred, the Kailouees. On
+the present occasion, however, a marabout proclaimed
+peace and good-will between these ancient
+enemies. It was necessary, indeed, that some understanding
+should be come to, as after the election
+the ratification of En-Noor and Lousou is required.
+En-Noor, especially, is greatly respected by the
+people of Aghadez, as the grand supporter of authority
+in Asben. The new Sultan is usually brought
+from Sakkatou in state by the tribes Iteesan and
+Kilgris. A vast crowd of them, with their families
+and flocks, had marched up and occupied a camp<a name="page64" id="page64"></a><span class="pageno">[64]</span>
+near the town; but they departed on the same day
+that Dr. Barth arrived&mdash;even before he entered.</p>
+
+<p>Early in the morning, Dr. Barth paid his
+respects to the Sultan. He was a stout man, about
+fifty-five years of age&mdash;benevolent-looking, as far as
+could be judged in spite of his face-wrappers. He
+sat in a large room, supported by two massive
+columns, and received his visitors kindly. The presents
+pleased him, and were acknowledged by the
+counter-present of a fat ram, and by meals sent
+every day.</p>
+
+<p>The ceremony of investiture took place on the
+16th of October, and seems to have been an imposing
+spectacle. Certain intricate forms are used to
+express the combination of various Tuarick tribes
+in choosing this foreign sultan. Succeeding it was
+the great festival, on which a procession took place,
+in which the new chief, wearing the burnouse which
+I had sent him, took part, with a great number of
+Tuaricks in their best array. Immediately afterwards
+a razzia (of which both we and Dr. Barth
+heard various conflicting reports) was agreed upon
+against the tribes of the north, especially those who
+had molested our expedition&mdash;the Fadeea. It was
+highly successful, and may perhaps be useful in procuring
+respect for future travellers. Two thousand
+men went out upon this foray, in which Abd-el-Kader
+was accompanied by Astakeelee, the Sultan
+of the Kailouees. Some, indeed, say that the latter<a name="page65" id="page65"></a><span class="pageno">[65]</span>
+only acted. Very little resistance was made, and I
+hear of only one man being killed. The fellow who
+stole Barth's maharee was compelled to restore him.
+Dr. Barth, however, though well-pleased on the
+whole with his reception, did not venture to present
+the treaty. He obtained some letters of recommendation
+to Soudan. Many of the distinguished persons
+of Aghadez visited Dr. Barth during his stay, and
+altogether his reception was satisfactory.</p>
+
+<p>I have already mentioned that the Sultan of
+Aghadez, though elected and controlled by a kind
+of aristocracy of sheikhs of various tribes, is invested
+with the power of life and death. He is said to have
+a frightful dungeon, into which guilty persons are
+thrown upon swords sticking upright in the ground.
+In his warlike expeditions he is regarded, however,
+as chief of some tribes only. The Kailouees have a
+sultan of their own, and encamp apart. The Sakonteroua,
+or Sheikh of Aghadez, exercises considerable
+influence. He is obliged annually to accompany the
+great salt-caravan, which sometimes numbers ten
+thousand camels&mdash;Saharan statistics&mdash;to Sakkatou.</p>
+
+<p>The town of Aghadez was formerly divided into
+a variety of quarters, the names of which still remain,
+although the space they occupied&mdash;three
+miles in circuit&mdash;is now principally filled with ruins.
+With the exception of five or six rubbish-hills, the
+whole space is level. The houses are spacious, with
+large rooms and court-yards. They are of mud,
+whitewashed, and furnished with flat terraces. Doves,<a name="page66" id="page66"></a><span class="pageno">[66]</span>
+children, and young ostriches, enliven the streets.
+There are some mosques, but none of imposing
+architecture. One, however, has a lofty tower, almost
+pyramidal in shape, supported on a basement of
+pillars, and rising to the height of about ninety feet.
+There is a kind of ladder inside; but Dr. Barth
+was not allowed to ascend, being told that the
+entrance was walled up.</p>
+
+<p>The land around the town is slightly undulating,
+and covered in the depressions with the <i>Acacia
+Arabica</i>. Herbage and good water abound. There
+are no orchards near, except in Wady Ameluli; but
+El-Hakhsas, three hours distant, produces melons,
+cucumbers, and melochiyeh, and supplies the whole
+town.</p>
+
+<p>The women of Aghadez are reported to be free
+and easy in character, and let loose tremendously
+as soon as the Sultan had departed on his razzia.
+Dr. Barth had some difficulty in keeping them at a
+distance. There are more children, however, to be
+observed in Aghadez than in most Aheer towns.</p>
+
+<p>This journey of Dr. Barth's has considerably
+extended our acquaintance, both with the geography
+and the political state of Asben or Aheer. We see
+now that it is strictly a portion of the Sahara, intersected
+with fertile valleys, that towards the south
+begin to assume quite a tropical character. The
+inhabitants are various in origin and in name; but
+it is difficult to describe their subdivisions with any
+accuracy. According to the natives, there are only<a name="page67" id="page67"></a><span class="pageno">[67]</span>
+two great tribes&mdash;the Kailouees, which division
+includes the Kailouees proper, the Kaltadak, and
+the Kalfada&iuml;; and, secondly, the Kilgris, including
+the Kilgris proper, the Iteesan, and the Ashraf.
+But, in questions of detail, numerous other names
+appear which it is difficult to arrange under any
+proper head. The Kailouees are, I think, of genuine
+Targhee origin, although, as I have already mentioned,
+with a mixture of the Soudan races. The
+Kaltadak and the Kalfada&iuml; seem to be identical
+with the borderers who attacked us on our first
+entrance into this country. The Kilgris are located
+southward, beyond Aghadez, along the Sakkatou
+route, and even far into Soudan, where the
+influence of the Targhee races seems to be rapidly
+on the increase.</p>
+
+<p>According to some of the Tanelkum Sheikhs,
+the following are the names of the principal Targhee
+tribes scattered over the desert of Sahara, excluding
+the inhabitants of Aheer:&mdash;</p>
+
+<table style="margin-left: 0%;" summary="principal Targhee tribes">
+<tr><td>1. Ouraghen</td><td>family</td><td>of Shafou.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>2. Emanghasatan</td><td align="center">"</td><td>of Hateetah.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>3. Amana</td><td align="center">"</td><td>of Jabour.</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>These are Gh&acirc;t Tuaricks&mdash;Azghers.<a name="anchor9" id="anchor9"></a><a href="#footnote9"
+class="fnanchor">[9]</a></p>
+
+<p>4. Aheethanaran, the tribe of Janet.</p>
+
+<p>5. Hagar (Ahagar), pure Hagars and Maghatah,<a name="page68" id="page68"></a><span class="pageno">[68]</span>
+who stand to them somewhat in the relation of the
+Kourglouss of Algiers to the Turks. They occupy
+the tract between Gh&acirc;t, Tuat, and Timbuctoo.</p>
+
+<p>6. Sagamaram; located on the route from Aisou
+to Tuat.</p>
+
+<p>7. Oulimad; tribes surrounding Timbuctoo in
+great numbers. In conjunction with the Berebisheers,
+a tribe of Arabs, they shut up the road
+between Aghadez and Timbuctoo by their predatory
+character.</p>
+
+<p>8. Tanelkum, located in Fezzan.</p>
+
+
+<p>We have been making inquiries of the Tanelkums
+about the population of Gh&acirc;t and its
+deserts. The Tanelkums say, that ten or twelve
+years ago Khanouhen brought up about ten thousand
+maharees against the then masters of Mourzuk,
+the Walad Suleiman, headed by Abd-el-Galeel.
+The ten thousand maharees were the whole force
+and strength of the Azgher, Khanouhen having
+called out every male; for every man of the Azgher
+is a warrior. The Arabs, seeing the number of the
+Tuaricks, deemed it expedient to make peace.
+From this circumstance, it would be supposed that
+the Azgher may number from five to ten thousand
+families, nearly all located west of the Soudan
+route, along the lines of the Ghadamez and Tuat
+routes; where, it is said, there are fertile valleys,
+in which dates and corn are cultivated. But
+at Gh&acirc;t I could never learn anything of these
+wadys. During my last visit I had no time,<a name="page69" id="page69"></a><span class="pageno">[69]</span>
+and the people there had no inclination to give
+me information about this fertile portion of the
+Azgher desert. On the former occasion, I learned
+from Haj Ahmed that there was a running stream,
+on the banks of which corn was cultivated, at about
+four days west of Gh&acirc;t. This is probably the locality
+of Janet. For myself, I do not believe the
+Azgher Tuaricks number more than two thousand
+families.</p>
+
+<p>Of the population of Aheer I have been able to
+learn nothing definite; that is to say, nothing which
+I can absolutely depend upon. Some make it reach
+above fifty thousand souls. There are, however,
+only forty towns, exclusive of Aghadez; and about
+twenty places where people live in tents. I wrote
+down a second list of them, with their directions,
+and some guess at the number of male inhabitants.
+The son of the Tanelkum Sheikh considers the
+Kailouee warriors to amount to about fourteen
+thousand; which, indeed, will make the whole
+population above sixty thousand. The accounts I
+have received, therefore, seem to be sufficiently exact
+for general purposes.</p>
+
+<p>The Tanelkum Sheikh says there are no other
+tribes of Tuaricks but those enumerated above.
+The largest and most powerful tribe is that in the
+neighbourhood of Timbuctoo, the Oulimad, answering,
+perhaps, to the Sorghou of Caillie; and the
+smallest and weakest, the Tanelkum. But the
+Tanelkums, if small in number, are great in pride,<a name="page70" id="page70"></a><span class="pageno">[70]</span>
+and consider themselves a race of marabouts.
+They certainly make long prayers, and several of
+them can write a little. The Turks treat the Tanelkums
+with great consideration, and every year the
+Pasha of Mourzuk gives their Sheikh a fine burnouse
+and other presents. They pay no impost, though
+living in the Fezzan valleys. They are devoted to
+peaceful pursuits, and are camel-drivers and small
+merchants. Formerly they were powerful; and gave
+a sultan to the town of Gh&acirc;t. About a century
+ago, their Sheikhs and the greater part of the Tanelkums
+were destroyed by a razzia of the Tibboos.
+They had then a town, which was situate in the
+Wady Esaiyen, where there are still ruins to be seen,
+and which we passed near Berkat.</p>
+
+<p>Of the Oulimad I know but little, except that
+they are exceedingly turbulent, even ferocious, in
+the neighbourhood of Timbuctoo. They also extend
+their razzias from Timbuctoo to the south-western
+frontiers of the Asbenouee territories. A very
+short time ago they made a foray on the Soudan
+route, between this and Damerghou. The Gh&acirc;t
+Tuaricks I have pretty well described.</p>
+
+<p>The tribe of Janet has been mentioned frequently
+in this journal, from the circumstance of their
+attempting to get up a razzia against the expedition.</p>
+
+<p>The Haghar are well known, even in Europe, for
+their freebooting propensities. They lie between the
+Oulimad and the Azgher tribes surrounding Tuat,
+and are some of them engaged in commerce.</p>
+
+<p><a name="page71" id="page71"></a><span class="pageno">[71]</span></p>
+
+<p>The Sagamaram (or Sgamara) are an interesting
+small tribe, located in the rocky valleys, along the
+line of the route from Aisou to Tuat. They are
+mostly dressed in leathern clothes, and trade with
+Tuat, taking their cloths and a fragrant herb called
+<i>debau</i>, which they exchange against dates, &amp;c. They
+likewise come to Aheer and Soudan, and fetch slaves
+and goods for the souks of Tuat. They are a very
+pacific tribe, not unlike the Tanelkums, but carrying
+on more commerce.</p>
+
+<p>The Maghatah (or Maratah) are a thievish race,
+and have the vices of their mothers, those peculiar
+to Soudan, as well as the more ferocious traits of
+Berber bandits. Several of these people are in
+Janet.</p>
+
+<p>In concluding these imperfect general observations
+on the state of Aheer or Asben, I will only
+add that the country extends from north to south
+eleven days' journey, or about two hundred and
+twenty miles (twenty miles to the day); and east
+and west, eight days, or one hundred and sixty
+miles. Aghadez, the largest town or city, stands,
+as has been seen, alone; and may be considered
+as a kind of connecting link, politically and otherwise,
+with the black countries to the south. I have
+already endeavoured to explain the singular constitution
+of society in this large but thinly-peopled
+tract. We observe there a curious combination
+of the monarchical and patriarchal states, with a
+dash of democracy into the bargain. Several times<a name="page72" id="page72"></a><span class="pageno">[72]</span>
+I have been reminded of Homer's heroic age. The
+princes and the people seem alternately to appear
+on the scene, exercising sovereign sway. The great
+Sultan is elected from out of the country; but he
+is compelled to seek the ratification of the chiefs,
+the elders, and the populace within. Then there
+is the great chief of the Kailouees, whose town or
+camp is at Asoudee; with Sultan Lousou, a most
+influential man; not to speak of the great En-Noor
+himself, who has, perhaps, personally, the greatest
+political weight of them all. Each of these great men
+is perpetually surrounded by an army of retainers,
+dependants, and slaves; and public affairs are transacted,
+partly according to some old routine, difficult
+for a stranger to understand, partly after the fashion
+of "Arabian Nights," kings meeting casually at
+the head of great armies in some poetical wilderness.
+All these chieftains are both pastors and
+merchants. One of their chief articles of traffic is,
+I am sorry to say, their unfortunate fellow-creatures.
+They are the greatest slave-dealers in the Sahara;
+two-thirds of the whole commerce is in the hands
+of the Kailouees. The Sultans levy duties likewise
+on the caravans that pass through their territory&mdash;duties
+which, to our cost, we know to be neither
+regular nor moderate; but they have no right
+to apply taxation to their quasi-subjects. Sometimes,
+when they are "hungry," they make a razzia
+on a distant tribe, and find both slaves and cattle at
+their disposal.</p>
+
+<p><a name="page73" id="page73"></a><span class="pageno">[73]</span></p>
+
+<p>As might have been expected, the Kailouees&mdash;princes
+and people&mdash;are not very refined in their
+ideas or luxurious in their habits. Their food consists
+principally of the grains ghaseb and ghafouley,
+or guinea-corn. They have also flocks and herds
+of sheep, camels, and bullocks; but the bullocks
+are used chiefly for draft, and to carry goods from
+Aheer to Soudan. Asses are exceedingly numerous,
+and likewise go to Soudan to fetch guinea-corn.
+The population of Aheer, being scattered about in
+small towns and villages, a few hours journey apart,
+these animals are found very useful for the transport
+of the persons and effects of the poor. The
+richer people have camels of the maharee species, like
+all the Tuaricks; and in some respects it is the
+possession of this splendid animal which distinguishes
+the Kailouee population from the people
+to the south. For example, all their sports and
+pastimes would be exactly Soudanese, were it not
+for the introduction of the maharee. On the celebration
+of a wedding, the Kailouees ride round the
+groups of guests on their silent-treading camels,
+which measure their movements to the sound of
+a big rude drum. Such scenes would otherwise be
+perfectly Nigritian. The men dance, flourishing
+their lances; and the slaves both dance and sing.
+But I have already noted down all that I observed
+remarkable in manners, and need not here repeat
+myself.</p>
+
+<p>The great natural features of Asben, also, are<a name="page74" id="page74"></a><span class="pageno">[74]</span>
+doubtless by this time impressed on the mind of
+the reader. They consist of a series of naked
+granite rocks or mountains, some of them rising
+to upwards of three or four thousand feet, ranging
+in every direction, with many isolated peaks; and
+of picturesque valleys winding along between steep
+precipices&mdash;threads of green, in which the tholukh
+and all species of mimosa and acacia, with the
+souag and other trees, flourish in immense growth,
+sometimes adorned by garlands and festoons of
+luxuriant parasitical plants. Wild animals of various
+kinds range at will in unfrequented places, but do
+not seem to excite much terror. There are gardens
+and cornfields in the neighbourhood of some of the
+towns and villages, the cultivation being kept up
+during the dry months by irrigation; but only a
+few of the inhabitants, mostly slaves, cultivate the
+soil. Besides the grains I have mentioned, a few
+vegetables, principally onions, are produced. Date-palms
+bear fruit, which is good, but will not keep.</p>
+
+<p>I have already mentioned the chief manufactures
+of Aheer. They flourish to the greatest extent
+in Aghadez; but Tintalous also has its artizans.
+Working in leather was very popular during our
+stay, in consequence of the presence of a noted
+charm-writer&mdash;bags being necessary. A good many
+cunning blacksmiths ply their trade in various
+places.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="footnote6" id="footnote6"></a><a href="#anchor6">[6]</a> See the
+papers read before the Geographical Society, in January
+and March 1851. It appears to me that Mr. A. Petermann slightly
+depresses the importance of the part played by Mr. Richardson in this
+mission. However, this may arise from the fact that the communications
+on which his paper was founded were all from his German
+friends. It is not necessary to be grudging of notice to any of the
+three enterprising gentlemen who undertook this arduous journey; but
+we must always remember who planned the Mission, and who directed
+it with consummate prudence as long as life and strength lasted. In
+Mr. Richardson's MS. an outline is given of Dr. Barth's journey,
+and I therefore insert it, with corrections and additions, from the papers
+just alluded to.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="footnote7" id="footnote7"></a><a href="#anchor7">[7]</a> This is
+Dr. Barth's statement, which I have introduced from
+his own account. It will have been seen that Mr. Richardson (see
+vol. i. "Note on the Territorial Division of Aheer,") makes a much
+lower estimate. I may here remind the reader, that even when in his
+diary Mr. Richardson inserts two different and contradictory statements,
+I do not undertake to select one and suppress the other, except
+in the case of an obvious slip of the pen. Nor have I thought it
+necessary to burden the page by indications of slightly different assertions.
+A diary must necessarily abound with imperfect observations,
+which correct or complete one another; and perhaps the general impression
+left on the mind of the reader&mdash;who accompanies, as it were,
+the writer in receiving its various elements&mdash;is more like truth than
+it would be after the perusal of one absolute dogmatic statement.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="footnote8" id="footnote8"></a><a href="#anchor8">[8]</a> As an
+illustration of the previous note, I will observe that this
+word is spelt in several different ways in the MS., and I do not
+know which is the correct one.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="footnote9" id="footnote9"></a><a href="#anchor9">[9]</a> The
+three tribes of Gh&acirc;t are called Azgher, in contradiction
+to the Hagar. A Tanelkum explained the meaning of this last word
+(which I have usually written Haghar) to mean "wandering" or
+"wanderers." The word is sometimes written Hogar.</p>
+</div>
+
+<hr />
+
+
+<p><a name="page75" id="page75"></a><span class="pageno">[75]</span></p>
+
+
+
+<h2><a name="chapter5" id="chapter5"></a>CHAPTER V.</h2>
+
+<div class="summary">
+<p>Projected Departure for Damerghou&mdash;False Start&mdash;Picturesque
+Caravan&mdash;Sultan's Views of White Skins&mdash;My Birthday&mdash;The
+Sultan fights his Battles over again&mdash;His Opinion of
+Women&mdash;Bragging&mdash;The Razzia on the Fadeea&mdash;Political News in the
+Desert&mdash;Cold Weather&mdash;Continue our Journey&mdash;Bornouese
+Fighis&mdash;Tin-Tagannu&mdash;Trap for a Lion&mdash;Mousa's Camels&mdash;A
+further Delay&mdash;Jackals and the Fire&mdash;Language of Signs&mdash;Tintalousian
+Coquettes&mdash;Departure of the Zinder Caravan&mdash;Natural
+Features&mdash;Languages&mdash;The Kilgris&mdash;Killing Lice&mdash;The
+Razzia to the North&mdash;Present of a Draught-board&mdash;Pagan
+Nations&mdash;Favourable Reports.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><i>Nov. 2d.</i>&mdash;As this was the day fixed for our departure
+for Damerghou, it may well be imagined
+that we looked forward to it with some anxiety.
+Our delay in the neighbourhood of Tintalous had
+been unexpectedly long, and at times even the idea
+had crossed our minds that we should never be
+allowed to depart at all. Often we had desired to
+start alone; but had been withheld by our own
+prudence, as well as by the representations of our
+host, the venerable Sheikh of Tintalous. We had
+come by degrees scarcely to believe in the possibility
+of an advance, and to consider ourselves as the
+prisoners of circumstances in this advanced part<a name="page76" id="page76"></a><span class="pageno">[76]</span>
+of the Sahara, touching on the very borders of
+Central Africa. Now, however, we saw, by the
+bustle of preparation in the town, that, whether the
+salt-caravan arrived or not, we were to press forward.
+All night the town was in a bustle. We rose before
+sunrise, to complete what packing we had to do,
+and saw Jupiter and the moon in positions nearly
+resembling the Ottoman device. It was windy all
+yesterday and this morning, with a considerable
+degree of cold.</p>
+
+<p>To my astonishment when we had taken leave
+of Tintalous, we pitched tent after half an hour's
+journey. This was done, however, for a twofold
+reason: 1st, to see that all was right, and that we
+had left nothing behind; and 2d, to buy ghaseb,&mdash;a
+supply having arrived from Asoudee just in time
+for us to carry with us. Never was there a more
+picturesque caravan. Ladies on bullocks, children
+and women on donkeys, warriors on maharees, merchants
+on camels, the Sultan's horse harnessed going
+alone, and following steadily; goats and their kids,
+sheep, foals of camels, &amp;c. running or straggling
+along! When we had pitched tent in the valley,
+still in sight of Tintalous, En-Noor paid us a
+visit, and vouchsafed to explain the reasons of our
+delay. His highness also related several interesting
+things of Aghadez. The Sultan of that place, he
+says, is a descendant of one of three brothers,
+Shereefs, who ruled in Africa over the negro and
+other races. The eldest brother was Sultan of the<a name="page77" id="page77"></a><span class="pageno">[77]</span>
+West (Morocco); the next was Sultan of Bornou;
+and the third and youngest was Sultan of Aghadez
+in remote times. But how remote, it is impossible
+for En-Noor to tell, and, of course, for me to relate.
+I was much amazed by the predilection of En-Noor
+(who is not absolutely a white man) for black people.
+He praised Overweg, because he was getting brown
+and black. As for me, his highness was almost
+inclined to express his disgust for the whiteness of
+my skin. Unfortunately, I happen to be what the
+people call in England "very fair," except in those
+parts of my skin which come in direct contact with
+the sun. I spent the day in compiling a Haussa
+vocabulary, and hope to make considerable progress
+by the time we arrive in Damerghou.</p>
+
+<p><i>3d.</i>&mdash;This was my birthday, but of course it
+was unkept, and, indeed, almost unthought of until
+it was past.</p>
+
+<p>En-Noor again visited us, and drank with us
+coffee. His highness is getting quite attached to
+my tent, and swears that when I return to my
+country I must become a great man, and be made,
+like himself, a governor or sultan of some country.
+Shall I say, Inshallah? I asked Yusuf to explain
+why the Sultan thought so, and I could only learn
+that it was the opinion which his highness had
+formed from my general conduct.</p>
+
+<p>Being in a very happy humour to-day, the Sultan
+related many things of his youth; his exploits,
+of course, which all men relate, and which I shall<a name="page78" id="page78"></a><span class="pageno">[78]</span>
+likewise do, I imagine, if I live to be old. Showing
+us his withered fleshless arms, and taking hold of
+his armlets, he observed: "The time was when
+these armlets could not slip off. Now, see how
+easily they come away." He then abused me for
+my leanness, and admired the Taleb (Overweg),
+because he had more flesh on his bones. His highness
+also stated that he and a single man went to
+Damerghou and back in thirteen days, bringing a
+caravan of ghaseb. They never stopped on the
+road, but travelled day and night. This garrulous
+gentleman also declared he was the maker of his
+own fortunes&mdash;that he would not receive anything
+from his father. When he was young, he would
+take no person's advice; he did everything himself
+and from himself: but on the death of his father
+he always kept to his post as Sheikh of Tintalous,
+and Sultan of two towns in Soudan. He never
+moved this way or that way. Thus he has remained
+to a good old age, respected and venerated by all,
+whilst all his compeers have disappeared&mdash;not one
+remaining. He looks around for the friends and
+companions of his youth, and finds not one&mdash;they
+are all gone! Even now he allows no one in Asben
+to be greater than himself. Even if a Sultan presumes
+to lord it over him, he (En-Noor) at once
+knocks him down, and he is no longer Sultan in
+Asben. He remains, however, friends with all if he
+can. He never takes notice of anything which is
+not done under his own eyes; but when he sees a<a name="page79" id="page79"></a><span class="pageno">[79]</span>
+bad thing committed, he then acts&mdash;killing the
+wicked people, if necessary.</p>
+
+<p>The opinion of his highness of women does not
+flatter the ladies. He recommended us never to
+listen to the advice of our wives; if we did, we
+should be lost. The women were very well to fetch
+water, pound ghaseb, and cook the supper, but for
+nothing else. He never, himself, paid any attention
+to what they said; they were awful talkers.
+His highness here touched on a tender point; for,
+as the reader remembers, he has been beating one
+of his wives shamefully lately, because he pretended
+he was alarmed at her continual talking&mdash;bewildered
+by the length of her tongue! Proceeding in
+his confessions, the Sultan next related wonderful
+stories of a wonderful maharee which he had in his
+youth. With this maharee he rode to Aghadez in
+one day. With this maharee he chased, and run
+down, and won gazelles, and then cooked and ate
+them, &amp;c. Glorious old fellow! Our Tanelkum
+Mousa, however, afterwards observed, that this was
+<i>kitheb</i>, "a lie;" but that he knew a woman who
+could catch gazelles. Many other things of equal
+interest his highness related, and then left us in a
+good humour.</p>
+
+<p>Two of our camels strayed this evening. En-Noor's
+people soon brought them back. Our servants
+are very careless, and all our mishaps are a
+profit to the Kailouees. We have still, however,
+two camels lost, and, I imagine, shall not now recover
+<a name="page80" id="page80"></a><span class="pageno">[80]</span>
+them. But I was glad to hear the news that
+the Sultan of Asoudee was successfully chastising
+all the people who on the road attacked us.
+He had punished the people of Azaghar and of
+Seloufeeat, even the son of Haj Bashaw; and the
+Haj himself, who was said to be our friend, because
+he did not look after his son. The Sultan acts
+quite according to my opinion, making all the principal
+people of Seloufeeat and other places responsible
+for the conduct of the poorer and lower classes.
+It is said that the Fadeea have fled; but others say
+that they have been captured, and all our property
+which could be found seized in the name of the
+Sultan of Asoudee. All the steps taken by this
+Sultan have been directed, more or less, by En-Noor.
+He can muster, it is said, two thousand
+warriors&mdash;for every able-bodied man fights in this
+country. This expedition may be useful for future
+travellers from Europe, but I fear we shall get
+back none of our property.</p>
+
+<p>As a specimen of the political news strained
+through the brains of the people of Tuat, I may mention
+that the Tuatee, recently arrived here, reports
+that "the King of the Frenchmen has run away to
+England, and carried with him all the money of the
+French," and, moreover, that "as the French conquered
+Algiers by distributing large dollars to every
+one, and hold it by the same means, the French now
+having no money, must soon relinquish Algiers
+again to the hands of the Muslims."</p>
+
+<p><a name="page81" id="page81"></a><span class="pageno">[81]</span></p>
+
+<p><i>4th.</i>&mdash;The weather is getting colder and colder.
+The last few days have been quite chilly, with a
+strong wind blowing from the east. This morning
+it was quite uncomfortable, the thermometer having
+fallen for the first time to 60&deg; at sunset. We
+started early, and made seven hours in a south-eastern
+direction. It was a nice ride; but as the
+day advanced we got much sunburnt. After three
+hours we passed on the left the little village
+Zouazgher. The caravan showed again very picturesquely,
+the burdens tumbling off from the donkeys
+in the most delightful confusion, and the
+girls squalling for help. I ate on the road some
+Soudan dates, as they are called by the Arabs,
+and found them pleasant&mdash;a sort of bitter sweet.
+The name of the tree and of the fruit is, in Bornou,
+<i>bitu</i>. In Haussa the tree has two names, <i>aduwa</i>
+and <i>tinku</i>. Our course to day was up a fine
+valley, down which the water in the rainy season
+runs from east to west. There was abundance of
+trees and herbage. At this place, however, lions
+abound, and last night a camel was eaten by them.
+We encamped opposite a mountain, rising pretty
+high in sugar-loaf shape, called Adudai. Over the
+carcase of the camel hovered a small flock of
+eagles.</p>
+
+<p>A Bornouee fighi, called Mustapha, from the
+country Mal&#259;mdi, west of Kuka, tells us he has
+been six months at Aghadez. According to him,
+the route from Aghadez to Timbuctoo is one month.<a name="page82" id="page82"></a><span class="pageno">[82]</span>
+It is open, and not dangerous. En-Noor, indeed,
+promised to send any of us by that route if we
+wished. There are few people on the route, and
+if you pay them a little money you pass unmolested.
+This Bornouese fighi is not equal to his brethren
+whom I saw in Tintalous. But I learnt from
+this itinerant pedagogue the interesting fact, that
+there are a great number of persons of his profession,
+all from Bornou, travelling about in Aheer.
+Light, therefore, is springing up from the interior,
+and spreading to the coast in an opposite direction
+to what it did in former times.</p>
+
+<p><i>5th.</i>&mdash;Warmer weather greeted us this morning.
+We stay here to-day. The place is called Tin-Tagannu,
+and is a large wady, full of herbage
+and trees. It is inhabited by a few shepherds.
+This place is said to have been the first of the
+inhabited localities in Aheer, although now shepherds
+only drive their flocks there; so that spots
+of earth have their seasons and fortunes in the
+Sahara as elsewhere. By the way, I must continue
+to call this Sahara. Although there are periodic
+rains, we are still without the influences of the
+Soudan climate, which begins at Damerghou and
+Zinder. At the present season no country can
+be more healthy than these Asbenouee valleys. I
+hear that nearly all the women, as well as the
+men, have left Tintalous, so that the town is a
+perfect desert. En-Noor has brought his wives
+and daughters, and our caravan is like the migration
+<a name="page83" id="page83"></a><span class="pageno">[83]</span>
+of the whole of the town going in quest
+of a new country.</p>
+
+<p>A trap was set last night for the lion, but the
+king of beasts was too wise to be caught. En-Noor
+borrowed a gun of us to make this trap,
+which was of the following description. It was
+expected that the lion would come again to the
+carcase of the camel; so a hedge of thorns was
+made round the carcase with one opening, where
+was placed the muzzle of the gun, with a large
+piece of meat tied to the trigger, so that when he
+seized the meat he might fire off the deadly weapon
+against himself.</p>
+
+<p>This is a fine place for doves, and Overweg
+shot half a dozen to-day. Our Tanelkum, Mousa,
+informs us of the right way of tending camels.
+They ought never to be tied, but allowed to roam
+at large. They require also to be led through
+the best valleys, being so far helpless in finding a
+good grazing-place for themselves. He showed
+us his camels, comparing them with ours. And
+certainly ours, which had their legs tied and were
+not guided to good herbage, could not bear comparison.
+But, of course, the business, the support,
+the riches of Mousa, are his camels. They occupy
+all his thoughts, and would appear, to a stranger,
+to be the end of his existence.</p>
+
+<p><i>6th.</i>&mdash;This morning at sunrise the thermometer
+was as low as 52&deg; Fahrenheit. We shivered with
+cold.</p>
+
+<p><a name="page84" id="page84"></a><span class="pageno">[84]</span></p>
+
+<p>Dr. Barth arrived early by way of Tintalous.
+He confirms the news that the Sultans of Aghadez
+and Asoudee have completely chastised all those
+tribes who stopped us on the road and levied black
+mail on us.</p>
+
+<p>En-Noor paid us a visit in the morning. After
+shaking us all in a very friendly manner by the
+hands, he expressed his regret that he could not
+go with us now to Zinder. The country was not
+tranquil, and the people would not consent to his
+going; but if we wished to proceed immediately with
+his principal slave, Zangheema, he assured us we
+should go safely. He then left us to reflect upon
+what we would do. We decided, without a dissentient
+voice, that we could not venture to go with
+Zangheema, and that we must wait for En-Noor,
+be the time ever so long. We forwarded this decision
+to his highness, who seemed to receive it with
+satisfaction. His wife sent us word, "To be sure
+not to go without her husband;" a piece of advice
+from a lady we are anxious most religiously to respect.
+Dr. Overweg made an application, through
+Daubala and Yusuf, to go to the salt-mines of Bilma
+with the Kailouees. But either the applicants betrayed
+the thing, or En-Noor was unwilling to grant
+permission. Our friend, therefore, is disappointed
+of this most interesting geological excursion.</p>
+
+<p>We are to remove a little further to the west,
+to a valley more convenient than this for pitching
+tents, and under some shelter. We still hope we<a name="page85" id="page85"></a><span class="pageno">[85]</span>
+shall not be obliged to await the return of the
+salt-caravan from Bilma (that is, a month, or forty
+days) before we start. Probably, when good news
+comes from the camp in the west we shall go on.
+It will be a sad trial for our patience to wait so
+long, after having already dallied more than two
+months in Tintalous.</p>
+
+<p><i>7th.</i>&mdash;The thermometer at sunrise stood at 51&deg;&mdash;very
+cold. There are no signs yet of Zangheema's
+starting to Damerghou. The people, when sitting
+over the fire in the evening, relate jocosely that
+the jackals, not being able to come near the flame,
+and nevertheless feeling the cold very much, hold
+up their fore-paws, in a sitting or squatting position,
+in imitation of men, towards the fire, be they at
+ever so great a distance, and so screw up their
+imaginations to the belief that they are warming
+themselves. The language of gesticulation and
+signs, by the movement of different parts of the
+body, is quite a study in this part of the world.
+The most singular gesticulation, and yet the most
+significant, is that by which a person begs a thing.
+He holds the object in one hand (the left) before
+the owner, then gives the right hand and arm a
+swing round, and at last places the right hand to
+his bosom&mdash;the meaning of all which is, that he
+seeks to ascertain if the owner has any other
+article of the same description as that which he
+holds in his left hand, and whether he is willing
+to give it to him. When a Kailouee says a thing<a name="page86" id="page86"></a><span class="pageno">[86]</span>
+is good, he puts the forefinger of his right hand
+into the clasped palm of his left, and so, as he
+pronounces the thing good, <i>nagari</i>, he turns his
+imprisoned finger round within the closed left
+hand. When he says there are many persons, he
+clasps together the fingers of his left hand, and
+forms a good English fist, holding the hand thumb
+upwards. He then strikes, with the palm of his
+right hand, the fist of his left hand, held in that
+particular position. This sign also represents a
+more indelicate idea, and is used in the same way
+on the coast.</p>
+
+<p>The women, from the shepherdess to the princess,
+of Tintalous, are as fond of the bustle as
+European dames; but the important difference is,
+it is the natural bustle which they here delight to
+exhibit to the admiring male population. If a
+woman be called to, going off to the well for
+water, she does not turn round to see who is calling,
+but immediately draws her frock tight round
+her form, and imparts to it a most agitated and
+unnatural swinging motion, to the great satisfaction
+of the admiring lookers-on. Thus we see how the
+coquettes of London and Paris meet at opposite
+poles with these of the Sahara and Central Africa.</p>
+
+<p>Additional applications were made to En-Noor
+by my colleagues, to go respectively to Bilma and to
+Zinder&mdash;Dr. Barth wishing to go on with Zangheema&mdash;but
+without effect. The old Sheikh remained
+firm in his refusals: Zangheema, however,<a name="page87" id="page87"></a><span class="pageno">[87]</span>
+was the first to start objections to Barth's accompanying
+him. As to Overweg, we think he lost
+his opportunity by not treating directly with En-Noor,
+instead of Hamma his son-in-law. His
+highness will do nothing extra for us unless paid.</p>
+
+<p><i>8th.</i>&mdash;We rose early, and found a large portion
+of the caravan destined for Zinder already gone.
+This is very tiresome to see the people starting with
+whom you were to have gone, and to know that
+you have still thirty or forty days to wait; and as
+for expenses, living at almost as dear a rate as in
+Tripoli. Our boat has gone with the caravan.</p>
+
+<p>Hereabouts grow a great quantity of wild water-melons,
+<i>dela&acirc;ah</i>. They are very small and bitter,
+but the people, nevertheless, eat them occasionally.
+If cultivated they would, of course, soon yield an
+excellent supply. Barth represents the road between
+this and Aghadez as very woody, and also that
+the country is everywhere mountainous. Baghzem
+is not high, but is, nevertheless, a very large mountain,
+seen several days' journey. The high plains
+without water are also covered with trees. I hear,
+also, that the road between this and Damerghou is
+exceedingly woody, and the trees of "the scratching
+or rending description," like the tholukh. Aheer
+also abounds in senna.</p>
+
+<p>Yusuf says that all the people of Soudan are
+red, with the exception of the inhabitants of Tesaoua,
+Kanou, Kashna, and Maradee.</p>
+
+<p><a name="page88" id="page88"></a><span class="pageno">[88]</span></p>
+
+<p>Barth represents Gouber as stronger than ever,
+and united in alliance with Maradee against the Sultan
+of Sakkatou. He has written all the towns.
+Gouber appears amongst the towns described by
+Leo Africanus.</p>
+
+<p><i>9th.</i>&mdash;This morning En-Noor paid us a visit, to
+tell us to move after him in the wady near, under
+the shade of the trees. His highness was very
+polite and friendly, as he has now been for some
+time past.</p>
+
+<p>The weather continues cold&mdash;thermometer, 49&deg; at
+sunrise in the air. This cold weather ought to
+strengthen or restore our health. It certainly
+would do us good, much good, if we could get meat
+and soups.</p>
+
+<p>I sent on our boat yesterday to Zinder, with
+three of our servants, together with some other
+heavy baggage. I was occupied to-day in compiling
+the Haussa dictionary. Kashna is represented to
+be the fountain of the Haussa language, the Florence
+of Soudan. Kanou is a place of foreigners, and the
+language of the city must be much corrupted. According
+to En-Noor, <i>Kal</i>, in the names <i>Kal</i>fada&iuml;,
+<i>Kal</i>tadak, <i>Kil</i>gris, and <i>Kail</i>ouee, signifies <i>country</i>.
+There are to be added to the zoology of this
+country the monkey and the <i>mohur</i>, or fine large
+gazelle, as large as a deer, called in Haussa <i>m&#259;r&aacute;i&#259;</i>.
+We already find great differences in the pronunciation
+of the Haussa language, but especially in the<a name="page89" id="page89"></a><span class="pageno">[89]</span>
+following letters:&mdash;<i>sh</i> is confounded with <i>ch</i> or <i>tch</i>,
+<i>l</i> with <i>r</i>, and <i>r</i> with <i>l</i>, <i>o</i> with <i>u</i>, &amp;c. Letters are
+also frequently unnecessarily doubled. These differences,
+however, will never much affect the conversation,
+when the parties are well agreed upon what
+subject they are conversing.</p>
+
+<p><i>10th.</i>&mdash;This morning we are removing to the
+shade of the trees, near En-Noor. Dr. Barth describes
+the Kilgris as very fine, tall men, and much
+lighter in complexion than the Kailouees: they
+dress very simply, having only the black turkadee
+on their heads, having neither a bakin zakee under
+it, nor any white shash, or fotah, to wind upon it, in
+the fashion of the Kailouees. They are, like all
+these tribes, very proud, and nourish a deadly enmity
+towards the Kailouees, of whom they take
+precedence in Aghadez. Barth gave away a black-lead
+pencil in Aghadez, and afterwards everybody
+came to ask him for one. A person got one pencil,
+and begged another, saying, "the two would last
+him his whole life."</p>
+
+<p><i>11th.</i>&mdash;The weather is increasingly cold in the
+morning; three-quarters of an hour after sunrise
+the thermometer was 45&deg; in open air.</p>
+
+<p>His highness vouchsafed this day to sleep in my
+tent, and yesterday he did the Germans the honour
+of slaughtering lice in theirs. It is a grand piece
+of etiquette in this country, that every man has the
+privilege of murdering his own lice. If you pick a
+louse off a man's sleeve, you must deliver it up<a name="page90" id="page90"></a><span class="pageno">[90]</span>
+instantly to him to be murdered, as his undoubted
+right and privilege.</p>
+
+<p>The Sultan of Aghadez has returned from his
+razzia against the people of Seloufeeat, of Azgher,
+and the Kalfada&iuml;. Those whom he caught he chastised:
+but most of the Fadeea fled. I register these
+varying reports, because they show the state of uncertainty
+in which we were always kept, now hearing
+one thing, now another. But the true state of
+the case seems to be, that though the great Koku of
+Aghadez did take the field for a razzia, the actual
+operations were conducted by the Sultan of Asoudee.
+It must be remembered, however, that with their
+maharees these desert-princes can march to and fro
+with surprising rapidity, and that rumour finds it
+difficult to follow their footsteps. En-Noor now
+thinks the country sufficiently tranquil to move on
+two days further. He says he shall do so in the
+course of fifteen days.</p>
+
+<p><i>12th.</i>&mdash;His highness paid me a visit as usual,
+and I gave him a box containing a looking-glass,
+with a lid, on which is painted a draught-board,
+for the wife of his highness, who recommended us
+not to leave En-Noor, but continue with him until
+he carried us safely to Zinder. His highness expressed
+great satisfaction for the present; and when
+I told him to take care it was not broken, he observed:
+"I will take especial care of this thing,
+because there is none like it in this country, and it
+cannot be repaired." He told us also that his ladies<a name="page91" id="page91"></a><span class="pageno">[91]</span>
+could play at draughts. I gave him, besides, a piece
+of green silk for a shade for his eyes. He went off
+immediately, gratified with these little presents.</p>
+
+<p>The weather is very pleasant for the study of
+languages, but the days are too short and the nights
+are too long. Nevertheless, I sleep nearly all night
+this cold weather.</p>
+
+<p><i>13th.</i>&mdash;Thermometer at sunrise in the open
+air was 41&deg; 30' Fahr., so that the cold increases,
+this being the lowest which I have yet taken. The
+Germans have had a deal of trouble with Mohammed
+of Tunis; they would send him back, but there is no
+opportunity of doing so.</p>
+
+<p>M&aacute;guz&aacute;wa and Azna are the names of the pagan
+nations of Soudan, denoting the same people, and
+not different races. The names answer to the word
+<i>Kurdi</i>, in Bornou. These pagans say, in derision
+of the Muslims, when it rains, "Allah must have
+a large belly," that so much water falls from him.</p>
+
+<p>En-Noor describes pagans of Maradee drinking
+large quantities of <i>gia</i> (beer, or fermented liquor).</p>
+
+<p>This evening a Gadamsee arrived at the tents,
+bringing two or three slaves from Damerghou. He
+says the news of our arrival had already reached
+Damerghou&mdash;that it was reported there that the
+Sultan of Aghadez had given Barth a black tobe;
+not, by any means, a bad rumour. He sends his
+slaves to Gh&acirc;t from this place, and returns immediately
+to Damerghou, taking letters for us to
+Zinder.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+
+<p><a name="page92" id="page92"></a><span class="pageno">[92]</span></p>
+
+
+
+<h2><a name="chapter6" id="chapter6"></a>CHAPTER VI.</h2>
+
+<div class="summary">
+<p>Medicine for Bad Eyes&mdash;A summary Proceeding&mdash;News from the
+Salt-Caravan&mdash;Towns and Villages of Tesaoua&mdash;Earthquakes&mdash;Presents
+for the Sultan of Maradee&mdash;Yusuf's Insolence&mdash;English
+Money in Aheer&mdash;A Razzia on the Holy City&mdash;Bornouese
+Studies&mdash;Gipsies of Soudan&mdash;En-Noor and the Marabouts&mdash;Ghaseb&mdash;State
+of the Weather&mdash;Calculations for the
+Future&mdash;Senna&mdash;Relations of Man and Wife in Aheer&mdash;En-Noor
+in his Family&mdash;Gouber and Maradee&mdash;Beer-drinking&mdash;Study
+of the Sau&mdash;Shara&mdash;The Oulimad&mdash;Lions&mdash;Translating
+Jokes&mdash;Digging a Well&mdash;Projects.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><i>Nov. 14th.</i>&mdash;I wrote this morning, by the slaves going
+to Gh&acirc;t, to Mr. Bidwell and my wife. En-Noor
+paid us a visit in the afternoon, and was exceedingly
+civil. He promises me letters for Sakkatou, and to
+forward Overweg to Maradee.</p>
+
+<p>Our servant shot a large vulture to-day. En-Noor
+having bad eyes, ordered the eyes of this bird
+of prey to be scooped out for a medicine. This is
+not the first time that I have heard of the various
+parts of animals being eaten, or otherwise used, to
+cure or strengthen the corresponding parts in human
+beings. It seems to be an idea natural to people in
+a rude or semi-barbarous state.</p>
+
+<p><a name="page93" id="page93"></a><span class="pageno">[93]</span></p>
+
+<p>En-Noor related a pretty anecdote of himself
+and his younger days in our tent to-day. After
+saying, that formerly the Asbenouee people were
+the only folks considered bad in these parts, he
+observed, that now he himself and the Asbenouee
+were certainly much improved in their manners and
+dispositions; "for," added he, "there were once
+four fighis (charm-writers) who employed people to
+speak against me, and bring me into disrepute.
+What did I do? I called them to me, gave them
+fine presents of burnouses and a great supper, with
+an apartment in which to pass the night. But when
+they were fast asleep I dug a large hole, fetched
+them all out of the room, killed them, and covered
+them up in the hole. Now, however," continued
+his highness, "we do not go so far as this, but
+content ourselves with taking away an enemy's
+camels."</p>
+
+<p><i>15th.</i>&mdash;Weather cold this morning. Thermometer
+at sunrise, 43&deg;. I hang the thermometer on
+the tent-ropes, just outside, at about a foot from the
+ground.</p>
+
+<p>Hamma (son-in-law of En-Noor) returned this
+morning from the salt-caravan. He marked on
+the sand that the caravan would be thirty-five days
+before it returned; so, I imagine, we have still from
+this time some thirty days to wait here. He left
+the caravan on its entering the Hamadah, between
+this and Bilma.</p>
+
+<p><a name="page94" id="page94"></a><span class="pageno">[94]</span></p>
+
+
+<h4><span class="smcap">Towns and Villages of Tesaoua.</span></h4>
+
+<p class="centre">(<i>From Amankee's relation.</i>)</p>
+
+<ol>
+<li>Tesaoua: people 1400; residence of the governor. Two large wells and one small one.</li>
+<li>Harmaua: 500. A little water.</li>
+<li>Ungua Korna: 400. One well, much water.</li>
+<li>Haidaua: 500. One well, and much water.</li>
+<li>Nuwala: 500 or 600. No water; but only half an hour from Haidaua.</li>
+<li>Nachira: 800, scattered about in small groups. Much water.</li>
+<li>Ungua-guka: 500. One well.</li>
+<li>Ungua-tallai: 400. Much water.</li>
+<li>Gindaua: 1000. Large wells; few trees.</li>
+<li>Saulawa: 40 or 50.</li>
+</ol>
+
+<p>The capital and nearly all this country is full of
+trees. Not a stone is to be seen, and the soil is
+sandy.</p>
+
+<p>The Sultan, or Governor of Tesaoua, is subject to
+the sovereign of Maradee, who is the only independent
+black prince in this part of Africa. The inhabitants
+are mixed, pagans and Muslims, but
+these last are not bigoted.</p>
+
+<p>En-Noor visited us this evening, and I asked
+him if he recollected earthquakes in this country.
+The old Sheikh emphatically replied, <i>Babo</i>,
+"There are none."</p>
+
+<p><a name="page95" id="page95"></a><span class="pageno">[95]</span></p>
+
+<p><i>16th.</i>&mdash;Barth has picked up a good many words
+in Aghadez, mostly correct.</p>
+
+<p><i>17th.</i>&mdash;It was colder this morning, although
+yesterday was very pleasant. Thermometer at sunrise,
+41&deg;.</p>
+
+<p>It is expected that we shall still remain here
+thirty days, which time, if divided half between
+Haussa and half between Bornouee, will help me on
+in these languages, the principal of the interior of
+Africa. Mohammed Tunisee is now the servant
+of Barth alone. Overweg has given him up.</p>
+
+<p>Yesterday morning I gave Overweg the presents
+for the Sultan of Maradee, to whom he intends to go
+on a mission, in the same way as Barth went to
+Aghadez. The presents consist of a fine burnouse,
+a fine shasheeah (five mahboubs), two pieces of
+coloured cotton cloth, two heads of white sugar,
+knives, scissors, cinnamon, looking-glasses, beads, &amp;c.
+I hope he will not return without bringing back the
+treaty signed. He is also to make some arrangement
+for the establishment of the missionaries in
+Maradee.</p>
+
+<p>To-day we had prayers in Overweg's tent. I
+read several short prayers from the Church of
+England prayer-book, and also the Gospel and
+Epistle for the Sunday.</p>
+
+<p><i>18th.</i>&mdash;Yesterday evening it was cloudy, and
+the moon had, for several hours, an immense elliptical
+ring round it&mdash;a common phenomenon in the
+northern Sahara.</p>
+
+<p><a name="page96" id="page96"></a><span class="pageno">[96]</span></p>
+
+<p>To-day Yusuf got up in a rage, and threw down
+his writing, because I told him he did not take
+pains to obtain from the people the several meanings
+of the words. This has been the case for
+most of the time we have been occupied with the
+vocabulary. I have therefore left him to himself,
+since he insulted me in this manner before the
+servants, and I fear I cannot trust myself to go
+with him to Sakkatou. It is a great inconvenience,
+but I must search for a kateb (writer) at Zinder.
+There are many poor men of this profession in
+Bornou, and very faithful people.</p>
+
+<p><i>19th.</i>&mdash;His highness En-Noor continues to
+visit us. Yesterday I gave him an English silver
+fourpenny piece, an English farthing, and a small
+French silver coin, with all of which he was greatly
+delighted. He summed up their value in wad&acirc;;
+fifty wad&acirc;s are an English penny. He admired her
+majesty's face on the silver fourpence; but his
+shadow, the man who generally comes with him,
+said,&mdash;"Oh, no, the face of the woman for a Sultan
+is not good. <i>This</i> is good," pointing to the head of
+Louis Philippe.</p>
+
+<p>The news came yesterday evening that a razzia
+had just been made on Tintaghoda, the assailants
+carrying away everything before them, and the
+inhabitants of the town fleeing to the mountains.
+This razzia was made by the people whom the
+Sultan of Aghadez has lately punished for the depredations
+committed on us and other caravans on<a name="page97" id="page97"></a><span class="pageno">[97]</span>
+the road. When this took place there were a few
+people at Tintalous, who, on hearing the news, came
+off immediately to us after En-Noor, so that now
+there does not remain a single inhabitant in the
+village. The people of the razzia were much disappointed
+at finding no more camels, all those of
+the villages hereabouts, and indeed through all
+Aheer, being gone to fetch salt from Bilma. They
+wished to make up the number of camels which the
+Sultan of Aghadez took away from them. Of
+course, when the salt-caravan returns, an effort will
+be made to avenge this insult on the holy city of
+Aheer&mdash;this profanation of the abode of marabouts!
+It is singular, nevertheless, that only a year ago
+some neighbouring tribes, thinking these holy men
+had too much wealth, carried off a large number
+of their camels. This is the much-vaunted place
+amongst the credulous Moorish merchants of the
+coast, where theft and robbery are unknown!</p>
+
+<p><i>21st.</i>&mdash;A foggy <i>November</i> morning! But this
+change of the atmosphere is very rare, and soon
+passes away. It is amazing how steady the seasons
+are, and how they roll, each bringing its accustomed
+weather and tunes.</p>
+
+<p>Yesterday I began my Bornou studies, not
+knowing whether I shall go first to Bornou or
+Soudan. I intend, if my health be preserved, to
+make a dictionary of the Bornou and Soudan
+languages together, for the sake of commerce and
+general information. I hope Government will<a name="page98" id="page98"></a><span class="pageno">[98]</span>
+print it, or if not Government, the Philological
+Society.</p>
+
+<p><i>Abizgen</i> is a fruit which abounds in Aheer. It
+is half the size of small currants, and has not a
+disagreeable taste&mdash;a sort of bitter-sweet clammy
+taste. This fruit may be called Aheer currants.</p>
+
+<p>In the neighbourhood of our encampment have
+been seen gazelles, ostriches, and monkeys, in considerable
+numbers.</p>
+
+<p><i>22d.</i>&mdash;En-Noor went off yesterday morning
+early, to visit a great marabout in the neighbourhood.
+This will enable us to apply ourselves
+closely to the languages, all day long. Occupied
+as I am with Soudanese and Bornouese, all the
+days fly away swifter than arrows shot by the
+most expert archers. En-Noor is expected to return
+in the course of four or five days. We
+have now all the village of Tintalous with us.
+It is Tintalous encamped out in the valley.</p>
+
+<p><i>23d.</i>&mdash;The orient sky flamed this morning with
+a pure yellow flame, amidst a somewhat murky
+atmosphere.</p>
+
+<p>Most of the people have a fire all night. In
+the morning they cower over it like inhabitants
+of the poles. Of course we as well as they, having
+been baked in the summer's sun, now feel the cold
+most acutely.</p>
+
+<p>There is a species of people scattered through
+Soudan which correspond to our gipsies, called
+M&aacute;guz&aacute;wa (sing. B&aacute;m&#259;guz&#259;i). These are essentially
+<a name="page99" id="page99"></a><span class="pageno">[99]</span>
+a merry, care-nothing people, always half
+tipsy, and always full of fun. They, however, work
+a little in agriculture; differing from our gipsies,
+who are little more than itinerant tinkers. A boy
+was shown to me to-day, whom his parents had
+christened <i>Butu</i>, "worthless." It is related that
+his mother had many children before him, all of
+whom died, and when he came into the world
+the people or neighbours all cried, "<i>Butu! Butu!</i>"
+i.e. "He will come to nothing." Then, it is added,
+"God seeing the people gave him a bad name,
+determined in compassion to preserve his life, and
+so his life was preserved to this day."</p>
+
+<p>En-Noor returned this evening from his visit
+to the marabout.&mdash;It is my intention to send home
+fifty thousand African words for this expedition.
+What future expeditions may do, if my life be
+spared, I cannot tell. I speak for this. I imagine
+I have already sent to the Foreign Office six thousand.
+I shall have five thousand, I hope, by the
+time I get to Zinder&mdash;three of Soudanese, and
+two of Bornouese. I must try to get a few words
+of the Aghadez language. These I can get, probably,
+at Sakkatou. I must have another writer,
+or fighi. My present Bornouese fighi is a very
+poor fellow.</p>
+
+<p><i>24th.</i>&mdash;The Sunday soon came again, with the
+study of languages. Now the time of our waiting
+here does not appear to be long enough. I have
+a commercial dictionary to make.</p>
+
+<p><a name="page100" id="page100"></a><span class="pageno">[100]</span></p>
+
+<p>En-Noor came to us after his return from his visit
+to his marabout friend. He says of the late razzia
+at Tintaghoda, that the marabouts of that town
+brought it all upon themselves, being the first to
+begin to countenance attacks upon caravans (that
+is, ours). He does not pity them; he does not care
+for them; and, he added, "They have now lost all
+their reputation amongst the people." The fact is,
+when we came the marabouts did not know what
+course to take, whether to attack us or to receive us;
+so they chose the former, in their blinded judgment,
+and brought all this evil upon their heads.</p>
+
+<p>The Fadeea, or Kalfada&iuml;, have decamped with
+their booty and their families to the Hagar, beyond
+the reach of recapture or revenge.</p>
+
+<p>A scorpion was found in my tent to-day, running
+across the sandy floor. We look upon them
+now as nearly harmless, whilst the cold weather
+has deprived them of all force.</p>
+
+<p><i>25th.</i>&mdash;Occupied with the languages. Time
+passes quickly.</p>
+
+<p><i>26th.</i>&mdash;Began the Bornou grammar.</p>
+
+<p><i>27th.</i>&mdash;A visit from En-Noor. He put on one
+of my gloves, and was much amused with it. He
+held out his hand, and put it on the face of his
+courtiers&mdash;showing fight. It was very white,
+which gave him occasion to pass to my skin, and
+pity my being so white. I made several useful
+remarks on Haussa grammar, and begin to understand
+the genius of the language.</p>
+
+<p><a name="page101" id="page101"></a><span class="pageno">[101]</span></p>
+
+<p>A caravan of ghaseb has arrived from Damerghou,
+by which we learn that the Sfaxee and
+Fezzan merchants are arrived in that country.
+We have been trying to buy ghaseb of the people,
+or of En-Noor; but it appears we were too late,
+for it is said to be all gone. The dollars are worth
+only 1750 wad&acirc;s here, whilst in Kanou they pass
+for 2500. Every article is depreciated in value
+in Aheer, because food is scarce. We have, however,
+managed to purchase a bullock&mdash;a great
+beast.</p>
+
+<p><i>28th.</i>&mdash;I did not feel so well after the meat-eating;
+we have had so little of it, and so seldom,
+that a little extra quite upsets me, and the gnawing
+it makes all my teeth bleed. Thermometer, 50&deg;.
+The weather has changed to mistiness, haziness.
+It is now reported that we still remain here twenty-five
+days longer, the caravan arriving only in twenty
+days, and five being allowed to rest the camels.
+So we have time enough for the Haussa and Bornou
+languages. I wish to master the grammar of
+each, so as to superintend some translation of the
+Scriptures.</p>
+
+<p><i>29th.</i>&mdash;The weather is still hazy, and warmer;
+but whilst it is warmer in the morning it is cooler
+in the mid-day, on account of the clouds and haze.
+Half an hour after sunrise, thermometer 56&deg;.</p>
+
+<p>En-Noor says we shall start in seventeen days,
+but ten days more or less for these people are nothing.
+Our courier for the money has just been<a name="page102" id="page102"></a><span class="pageno">[102]</span>
+gone thirty-three days. If, happily, he arrive to
+day, he will save a week of the Shantah from
+Mourzuk to Tripoli. If we remain here now
+twenty-five days, and are thirty-five days more
+before we arrive at Zinder, that will be sixty days.
+I shall then have only twenty days more to wait
+till the expiration of the four months, when I may
+expect the courier to return. Thus I hope to
+have the money to pay the Sfaxee before I go to
+Sakkatou. But, alas! such calculations are extremely
+uncertain, and we cannot tell what a day
+may bring forth. For our support and safety we
+must repose firmly in the goodness of an Almighty
+Providence.</p>
+
+<p><i>Nov. 30th to Dec. 3d.</i>&mdash;The weather has been
+mild these last few days; this morning, half an
+hour after sunrise, thermometer 51&deg;.</p>
+
+<p>En-Noor has been to pay a visit to the Sultan
+of Asoudee, meeting him at some neighbouring
+village. There was a council respecting the affairs
+of the tribe of the Iteesan, who are fighting amongst
+themselves; but no news has transpired since his
+return. The old sheikh is in good health and
+spirits, which he attributes partly to drinking my
+coffee twice and thrice a-day. He says we shall
+leave here in the course of twelve days.</p>
+
+<p>Senna is grown, or rather collected, in all the
+districts of Aheer; but it is cheap now, and does
+not fetch the price in Tripoli which it formerly did;
+many other as suitable purgatives being found in<a name="page103" id="page103"></a><span class="pageno">[103]</span>
+Europe, I suppose. Senna is, besides, procured
+from the district of the Tibboos of Bilma, and some
+of this is still sent to Tripoli. Bornou has also
+much senna, but it does not pay the expense of forwarding
+it to Tripoli.</p>
+
+<p>The relations of man and wife in Aheer are
+curious, if not extraordinary. A woman never
+leaves the home of her father! When a man marries
+a woman, he remains with her a few weeks,
+and then, if he will not take up his residence in the
+town or village of his wife, he must return to his
+own place without her. When a man sees a woman
+who pleases him, he offers the parents a price for
+her&mdash;say, four camels. If the parents agree that the
+price is adequate to the charms or the rank of their
+daughter, the bargain is concluded. These four
+camels remain always the property of the wife, with
+which she supports herself, sending them to Soudan
+or to Bilma, fetching ghaseb or salt. Many of the
+women have a large property obtained in this way.
+When their husbands visit them, they give them
+something to eat, and they remain a few days or
+weeks; and again depart to their own native towns,
+leaving the wife with her property, and any chance
+lover. But the men marry two or three wives, and
+so are constantly in motion, first going to visit one
+wife and then another. Thus the male population
+of this country is kept in a continually restless state
+of activity&mdash;roaming about here and there, marrying
+another and another wife, if their means will permit
+<a name="page104" id="page104"></a><span class="pageno">[104]</span>
+them. The women, of course, left in this way, and
+unrestrained by any high moral motives, take as
+many lovers as they dare, or can secretly dispose of.
+It appears that En-Noor always disapproved of this
+strange system, and swore he would never marry a
+wife, because he should be obliged to go to another
+town to reside there, and so be exposed to having an
+inferior position, the authorities of the town of his
+wife pretending to exercise jurisdiction over him.
+All his women have ever been slaves. His highness
+is now living amidst his daughters and their children&mdash;the
+men who married them being all away in
+their own native countries. A daughter of En-Noor
+costs ten camels, and this is considered a very
+high price for a woman. With two or three camels,
+a woman manages to support herself and children.
+If the husbands of En-Noor's daughters be ever so
+poor, he never gives them anything but a little food.
+They must come and reside in his town. His highness
+passes all his evenings amidst this circle of
+women&mdash;his female slaves, his daughters, and granddaughters.</p>
+
+<p>The population of Gouber and Maradee together
+may be about 1500.</p>
+
+<p><i>M&#259;r&aacute;dee</i>, capital of Maradee, and residence of the
+Siriki.</p>
+
+<p><i>Jinubakai</i> is the second division of the country,
+inhabited wholly by the pagans or gia-drinkers
+(beer-drinkers); not, therefore, Mahometans.</p>
+
+<p><i>Gouber</i> (Gubar), is the name of the country, of
+<a name="page105" id="page105"></a><span class="pageno">[105]</span>
+which the capital and residence of the sultan is <i>Chibri</i>.
+This country consists of a large city (Chibri), and
+several small villages, some fifty or sixty; two are
+here mentioned, Gomer and Sanna.</p>
+
+<p>These two countries of Gouber and Maradee
+are now in alliance against the Sultan of Sakkatou,
+i.e. of the Fellatahs, and mutually inflict razzias
+upon one another. Tesaoua is in close connexion
+with these ancient Kohlan countries, and is, indeed,
+a province of Maradee. There are mixed up
+with the population a number of people, emigrants
+from Aheer, called Buzai; but these Aheer Tuaricks
+have lost both their language and nationality, retaining
+merely the name, to denote their origin.
+So, in all probability, were more people and of
+other countries to emigrate to Soudan, they would
+soon become Soudanee, and lose their nationality.
+In these countries of Soudan above-mentioned,
+Mahommedanism has been but lately professed.
+But the great distinguishing mark between paganism
+and Mahommedanism appears to be the drinking
+or not drinking gia, the latter being the people
+who of course abstain from this intoxicating beverage.</p>
+
+<p>Overweg says, that within three-quarters of an
+hour's walk are found hereabout granite, sandstone,
+and basalt, a variety of stones somewhat remarkable.</p>
+
+<p>The study of <i>sau</i>, "footsteps" of men and animals,
+is quite a science in this part of the world.<a name="page106" id="page106"></a><span class="pageno">[106]</span>
+The Fezzanee are reckoned the most expert in this
+knowledge; they are said to be able to distinguish
+the footsteps of people when printed upon the trunk
+of a palm, the print-step being made by dipping
+the feet in water! As to animals, the people observe
+near the neighbouring rocks the sau of the
+lion&mdash;a very deep, heavy impression of his five
+claws, of the monkey, the hare, the gazelle, the fox,
+the jackal, the hy&aelig;na, the mouse, &amp;c. &amp;c. Indeed,
+we appear to be surrounded with animals; and in the
+morning I found the sau of the dog, the cat, the
+hare, and the mouse, on the sandy floor of my tent.
+It is my intention, before I leave Africa, to draw
+the forms of the footsteps of the more remarkable
+animals. <i>Inshallah!</i></p>
+
+<p><i>4th.</i>&mdash;Visit from his highness the Sheikh every
+day. He is now kind enough to send me every
+morning&mdash;at the suggestion of his principal wife&mdash;a
+small can of milk, which, besides the value of the
+milk itself, saves my sugar, enabling me to drink
+tea and coffee without sweetening. This evening
+the <i>shara</i> was brought of the arrival of couriers
+from the salt-caravan, to say it was near. Like the
+Arabs, for this shara or news, or first advice of the
+coming of something good or agreeable, the Kailouees
+ask some present. We gave a little bit of
+sugar to the slave who brought the welcome intelligence.</p>
+
+<p><i>Dec. 5th to 9th.</i>&mdash;I was occupied with vocabulary
+of Haussa and Bornou. Weather mild and<a name="page107" id="page107"></a><span class="pageno">[107]</span>
+misty, but a little cold this morning; thermometer,
+at three-quarters of an hour after sunrise, 43&deg;.</p>
+
+<p>Nearly all the salt-caravan has arrived, and proceeded
+in advance, coming in small detachments.
+They rendezvous in a fine wady full of herbage, with
+water higher up. We are expected to leave in a
+few days, three or four at most. Nothing seems
+now to detain En-Noor. But the Fadeea have returned
+from the Hagar, finding themselves not pursued.
+They very naturally prefer their own fine
+valley in Asben to the stony, desert wilds of Hagars.
+I suppose a razzia will be executed against
+them, for the restoration of the camels of Tintaghoda,
+on the return of the salt-caravan from Soudan.</p>
+
+<p>En-Noor gives a tremendously unfavourable
+account of the Oulimad, who occupy the desert of
+Sahara between Aghadez and Timbuctoo, and keep
+the road there shut against caravans. He says,
+they would sleep in our tents in the day, eat and
+drink with us; but in the night they would carry
+away the tent, and make themselves clothing with
+it. In fact, En-Noor considers them the veriest
+barbarians in this region of Africa. There may be
+a little exaggeration in this, and the Oulimad may
+not be worse than the Hagars of Ghem&acirc;ma, or even
+than some of his own people. The Kailouees do
+not hunt, nor do they cultivate the soil; so that
+this country abounds with animals. Some of the
+country is extremely wild and rocky, and affords
+many a retired den for the lions, who descend from
+<a name="page108" id="page108"></a><span class="pageno">[108]</span>
+the rocks and prowl abroad for prey in great
+numbers. Their footmarks frequently cover the
+length and breadth of the wadys. Barth himself
+saw (very fortunately, for it is a sight seen by very
+few persons indeed) as many as five together.
+Monkeys also abound in great numbers. I related
+to En-Noor the anecdote, as a joke, of the monkey
+shaving the cat in Paris; but this he took seriously,
+for he observed, "That is nothing; I have seen the
+monkeys crack lice just like men." It is always a
+difficult matter to translate a joke to these people.
+Overweg has been out these last two days hunting
+for ostrich eggs, in the places which these birds
+frequent. He saw their footprints, dung, feathers,
+&amp;c., and two specimens, but found no eggs. It
+appears this is a most difficult bird to catch.</p>
+
+<p>En-Noor continues to be very friendly. I get
+milk now every morning, for which I pay sugar
+and coffee. His highness and his people went out
+yesterday to dig a well, about two hours distant.
+All the water in this place is exhausted. It appears
+to be merely a deposit of rain-water under the sand,
+at a depth of from four or five to eight feet. It becomes,
+as in this case, entirely exhausted before the
+commencement of the next rains; but of course
+there are some springs, and many wells which are
+not dried up during the whole year.</p>
+
+<p>N.B.&mdash;If I remain a month at Zinder, I must
+make a little excursion amongst the Bornou villages
+and see the rustic life of the people; but I fear it will
+<a name="page109" id="page109"></a><span class="pageno">[109]</span>
+be a bad place to hear the pure Bornouese language.
+I still hope to go off early to Sakkatou, and finish
+quickly with Soudan. In these matters the Germans
+are better off than I am, and have not to wait
+for money.<a name="anchor10" id="anchor10"></a><a href="#footnote10" class="fnanchor">[10]</a></p>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="footnote10" id="footnote10"></a><a href="#anchor10">[10]</a> Nearly
+the whole of this long account of a residence in Aheer
+consists in the journals of Mr. Richardson of disjointed fragments,
+jotted down almost without any connexion. This was necessarily the
+case. Few incidents, save an occasional visit from thieves, or a dispute
+with that strange old gentleman, Sultan En-Noor, diversified
+this period. However, the simple commonplace book of a traveller in
+a totally new country can never be without its interest. No doubt
+Mr. Richardson would have attempted, had he survived, to throw all
+these observations into a picture; but any attempt to do so on my
+part would have probably resulted in the omission of characteristic
+traits, and the introduction of extraneous ideas. The following chapters
+appear to me to increase in interest, page by page.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p><a name="page110" id="page110"></a><span class="pageno">[110]</span></p>
+
+
+
+<h2><a name="chapter7" id="chapter7"></a>CHAPTER VII.</h2>
+
+<div class="summary">
+<p>Razzia on the Fadeea&mdash;Haussa&mdash;Names of Places&mdash;Ant-track&mdash;Circular
+Letter from Mourzuk&mdash;Vast Rock&mdash;Mustapha Bey's
+Letter&mdash;Effects of Water&mdash;Butterflies&mdash;Aspect of the Country&mdash;A
+Slave advanced to Honour&mdash;Shonshona&mdash;Herbage&mdash;Birds&mdash;Appearance
+of the Salt-Caravan&mdash;Colours of Dawn&mdash;Bilma
+Salt&mdash;Mode of Barter&mdash;Pass the Rock of Mari&mdash;Granite&mdash;Indigo
+Plant&mdash;Presents at Stamboul&mdash;The Sultan begs
+again&mdash;Old Men's Importunities&mdash;Baghzem&mdash;Curiosities of
+the Route&mdash;People of Damerghou&mdash;Temporary Village of
+Women&mdash;Country begins to open&mdash;Barter Transaction with
+Lady En-Noor.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><i>Dec. 10th.</i>&mdash;I rose before the sunrise; the coldest
+morning we have had; thermometer at half-an-hour
+after sunrise, 38&deg;.</p>
+
+<p>It is reported that we leave here to-morrow, or
+the day following. There is arrived from Aghadez
+the first man of that city after the sultan, called
+Amagai. He is come here respecting the affairs of
+the Fadeea. En-Noor also asked to-day for a list
+of all the things taken by force from us on the frontiers.
+It appears the Sultan of Aghadez had captured
+the Sheikh of the Fadeea, or some one sheikh,
+and allowed him to go out of prison on the promise
+that he would restore all the things taken from us&mdash;but
+<a name="page111" id="page111"></a><span class="pageno">[111]</span>
+not to us; so these Sultans and Sheikhs of
+Aheer will probably get all these things back,
+and divide the spoil. But, nevertheless, it is better
+that the people in authority should have them, than
+that they should remain in the possession of the
+robbers, the lawless plundering tribes of the frontier.
+Probably these people will be more cautious
+how they plunder another caravan of Christians.
+It will always be a satisfaction to us that the robbers
+were made to disgorge their booty. I have
+also heard that a small camel was brought in exchange
+for my large lost one; and En-Noor sent
+it back, ordering them to restore the large camel of
+the boat. My camel has been to fetch salt from
+Bilma.</p>
+
+<p>The children call Tesaoua, and the countries thereabout,
+Haussa, and say it is near, and that they go on
+donkeys. From this it is certain this portion of
+Soudan still has the ancient name of Haussa. Afaou
+is merely the Bornou name for Haussa, there being
+no place or district of that name. All these countries
+have most of them two names, or two pronunciations
+of the same name; one by the natives, and
+one by the Moorish merchants and other strangers.
+Thus the village of En-Noor is called by strangers
+Tintalous, and by the people themselves Chintullus.
+Travellers had better adhere to the name the place
+has amongst the strangers and foreign merchants,
+otherwise their narrative might be questioned by the
+people abroad, who do not know the native name.<a name="page112" id="page112"></a><span class="pageno">[112]</span>
+Maradee has its native name of Mariadi, but if you
+were to mention this name in Mourzuk and Tripoli
+none would know the country of which you were
+speaking. In fact, it is just the same as calling
+Florence Firenza, when speaking to persons who
+have not travelled in Tuscany, or who are unacquainted
+with Italian. I continue much occupied
+with the Bornouese and Haussa languages, and am
+now collecting the names of insects and animals.
+This is extremely difficult, as for many of the animals
+of Soudan there are no Arabic names.</p>
+
+<p>I measured an ant-track, and found it 125 feet.
+The ants were fetching the cottony dried blossom
+of a withered plant, and were amazingly busy. The
+tracks did not wind much. I noticed, also, in my
+walk, the footmarks of hares and many other animals.
+This country is full of live things.</p>
+
+<p><i>11th.</i>&mdash;I rose before sunrise; this is the coldest
+morning I have yet had, according to the thermometer,
+which was only two degrees above the
+freezing point (34&deg;).</p>
+
+<p>A circular letter arrived to-day from Aghadez,
+addressed to all the Tuaricks, written by Mustapha
+Bey of Mourzuk, recommending them to render us
+all necessary protection. It is dated back two
+months. Probably this letter was written on account
+of the unfavourable intelligence which reached
+Mourzuk respecting us. To-morrow, please God,
+we start for Soudan.</p>
+
+<p><i>12th.</i>&mdash;Thank God! we left our encampment of<a name="page113"
+id="page113"></a><span class="pageno">[113]</span>
+Chintagawna this morning. And oh, most gracious
+God! give us a prosperous journey, and may we be
+useful to ourselves and our fellow-creatures.</p>
+
+<p>We started about eleven o'clock, and went on
+about three hours and a-half. The day was very
+cool; the thermometer in the morning, at sunrise,
+being only three degrees above the freezing-point.
+We expect to see the water freeze on the high plains
+through which we are about to pass, before arriving
+at Damerghou. Our encampment is a pleasant
+wady, under a conical-formed rock of considerable
+elevation, perhaps 1500 feet. We are also in a high
+situation, some 1000 or more feet above the level of
+the sea. There is near this rock a lower one of an
+oblong form, its sides fluted with pillars; these
+columnar masses are basalt. Dr. Overweg examined
+the rocks, and found the outer crust a new species
+of rock, a sort of trachite or brachite; and the
+interior a sort of basalt, or volcanic substance. The
+large rock is also of the same formation. Dr. Barth
+ascended the large rock.</p>
+
+<p>I am now told that I made a great mistake
+about the wording of the circular letter of Mustapha
+Bey. This letter begins by thanking the
+Tuaricks of Aheer for exterminating the Walad
+Suleiman! It then hints broadly at the necessity
+for the Turks in Mourzuk and the Tuaricks of
+Aheer being friends; and to maintain this friendship
+one important condition is required&mdash;that they, the
+Tuaricks of Aheer, shall protect all the merchants<a name="page114" id="page114"></a><span class="pageno">[114]</span>
+or other travellers passing through their country,
+and coming from Mourzuk. In the event of their
+committing a bad action, the Bey says he may be
+compelled to make reprisals; so it is quite clear
+the letter is written entirely on our account, and
+perhaps is a preliminary measure to making reprisals.
+<i>Nous verrons.</i> This letter is only addressed
+to the people of Aheer.</p>
+
+<p>If water be the sustaining and even the generative
+force of vegetation in the desert, it is also the
+destruction of trees and herbage; for along the line
+of the current of the wady are seen immense
+numbers of dead and overthrown trees, torn from
+their roots by the force of the water in the rainy
+season. En-Noor paid me a visit this afternoon,
+and took a nap in my tent.</p>
+
+<p><i>13th.</i>&mdash;We rose early, but did not start till about
+nine o'clock. This was the coldest day we have yet
+experienced: the heavens were overcast with clouds.
+We came five hours; our course irregular, but
+always south-east; the track through wadys filled
+with the usual trees of the tholukh species. Yesterday
+were seen numbers of large butterflies, but
+to-day, on account of the cold, few. Flies innumerable
+follow the caravan. The rocks were, as
+yesterday, many conic-formed, and others rounded
+or appearing in ranges, like huge haycocks: granite,
+sandstone, and trachite. We have in the distance
+before us, a peculiarly shaped rock of considerable
+height, called <i>Mari</i>, in the midst of a range. We are
+<a name="page115" id="page115"></a><span class="pageno">[115]</span>
+encamped in the bed of an immense broad valley, and
+camels are feeding about in considerable numbers.
+The salt-caravan is very near. We are not yet in
+the regular caravan route, <i>vi&acirc;</i> Asoudee, but expect
+to reach it after to-morrow. En-Noor has with
+him as a guest the principal man of Aghadez,
+before mentioned. This man was once a slave, but
+by his address has risen thus high, as the slaves
+frequently do in Turkey: so widely do similar
+manners prevail. Many slaves in Soudan rise to
+the highest consequence.</p>
+
+<p>The <i>shonshona</i> (or practice of scarifying the face
+or neck) prevails everywhere in Bornou, Soudan,
+and all this part of Africa; the Tuaricks and Fellatahs
+being the only people who abstain from this
+barbarous practice. Each device of scarifying denotes
+the peculiar nation of the blacks. I have
+now got three sketches of faces thus disfigured,
+and shall get as many as I can.</p>
+
+<p>The Mahommedans of the coast usually teach
+that this way of marking the body is a sin, but
+nevertheless the black Muslims will not abandon
+the peculiarities of their nation.</p>
+
+<p><i>14th.</i>&mdash;Started early, but made only two hours
+and a-quarter, through the expansive valleys of
+yesterday. Here we found the salt-caravan, there
+being in this place abundance of room, herbage,
+and a large well, all necessary for such an assembly
+of people and beasts. On the road we put up a
+covey of partridges, and a splendid solitary bird,
+<a name="page116" id="page116"></a><span class="pageno">[116]</span>
+the <i>hobara</i> of Soudan. Footprints of the hares and
+of the gazelle were observed <i>en route</i>.</p>
+
+<p>By this opportunity we have got a few dates
+from Bilma; but they are very poor, some of them
+little better than dried wood. The salt-caravan has
+nothing attractive. The salt is all tied up in small
+bales or bundles, the outward wrapper being matting
+or platting of strips of the leaves of the doom-palm,
+called by the people <i>kabba</i>. Our caravan resembles
+the march of a wandering tribe, there
+being camels, sheep, oxen, asses, dogs, with all the
+paraphernalia of tents, cooking utensils, &amp;c. Some
+of the animals are laden, some unladen, playing,
+running, and skipping about. Then come the
+human animals, men, women, and children of every
+age. Our own caravan is mostly composed of the
+household and slaves of En-Noor, with two or three
+strangers. But now all changes to the salt-caravan,
+and we shall probably be soon absorbed in it.</p>
+
+<p>Yesterday morning I observed the dawn of day,
+and witnessed a degree of redness and red clouds,
+or, more poetically, rosy-tinted clouds, which I never
+before observed in all the Sahara. Probably now
+the sky will change to a colouring more like
+England. Sunset and sunrise in the Sahara are
+essentially different from those of England, the
+colours in the desert being exceedingly light and
+bright; and often in the summer time, at daybreak,
+there is a full, blazing sun in the course of three
+quarters of an hour; so that, that rich colouring of
+<a name="page117" id="page117"></a><span class="pageno">[117]</span>
+the summer's dawn in England is never here
+observed.</p>
+
+<p>I visited the salt-caravan, or that portion
+of it which belongs to En-Noor. The salt is
+prepared in Bilma, by the Tibboos, in three different
+manners. There is, first, the <i>canto</i>, a kind
+of pillar or pedestal, about 16 inches high, and
+3 or 4 broad in its widest part. As to weight, 10
+of these are a good camel-load, 8 a load for a
+small camel, and 6 for a weak camel. Then there
+are two cakes, one of refined salt and the other
+coarse. These coarse cakes are about 5 inches in
+diameter, and the refined ones 7 inches, the
+former being about 3lbs. and the latter 5lbs.
+in weight. When a caravan of Tuaricks arrive
+at Bilma, they find the salt all ready for them,
+and they pay a barter for it in this way,&mdash;a zekka
+of ghaseb is exchanged against twenty of the
+coarse cakes; a zekka for six of the refined cakes,
+and three zekkas of ghaseb for two of the pillars.
+Ghaseb appears to be the only staple thing which
+the Tibboos receive for their salt; they may also
+take now and then turkadias, or black turbans, and
+on the other side the Tuaricks bring a few dates
+with them: the fruit, even those of the best quality,
+are not very good or fine. This commerce of barter
+is managed almost solely by the women: the men
+remain in their houses, whilst the women go to the
+salt-pits or lakes, and transact this important
+business; but the men do not run away, as is commonly
+<a name="page118" id="page118"></a><span class="pageno">[118]</span>
+reported. At least, so say the Tuaricks.
+The supply of salt is inexhaustible. It is, probably,
+on account of the weight of the salt, and the fatigue
+of the camels which carry it, with the distance, that
+this commerce is not very profitable to the Tuaricks;
+but this can only be ascertained in the markets of
+Kanou, and other large cities of Soudan. There
+are only six months to the rainy season, so I have
+just time to go to Sakkatou and return, without
+waiting long at any of the intermediate places
+between Sakkatou and Kuka.</p>
+
+<p>Our encampment is under some rocks, where
+are seen the dens of lions. At the mouth of these
+caves or holes are bones of animals and the dung
+of the lions.</p>
+
+<p><i>15th.</i>&mdash;I rose early, but we did not start till two
+hours after sunrise. The caravan was a considerable
+time in loading. We have only with us En-Noor's
+detachment of the salt-caravan, about 130 camels.
+We may be quicker in our movements to-morrow.
+The first morning of starting is always thus slow.
+We came to-day five hours: passed the picturesque
+rock Mari, like a camel couchant, and entered after
+three hours the Asoudee route, or the direct
+caravan route from Gh&acirc;t to Damerghou, through
+Aheer. Another detachment of the salt-caravan
+passed or crossed us, and took another route to the
+east. Our course was always southwards, now S.E.
+now S.W., through wadys filled with trees, mostly
+tholukh and its varieties; the rocks were all granite.
+<a name="page119" id="page119"></a><span class="pageno">[119]</span>
+Aheer appears to be a region essentially of granite,
+although here and there are volcanic cones striking
+up, composed of basalt, or a variety of this stone.
+The weather was very cloudy and cold, only a little
+warm in the middle of the day. We have not
+come to water or wells for three days, because our
+journeys are very short. To-day I saw, for the first
+time, the indigo plant&mdash;<i>neela</i> in Arabic, and <i>bala</i> in
+Soudanese. I was glad to make its acquaintance.
+It grows amongst the other herbage, and may be
+easily confounded with it as a common herb. It is
+now in seed, the pods being small and very hard.
+This is one of the products capable of working the
+regeneration of Africa, if Africa is to be civilised by
+legitimate commerce.</p>
+
+<p>En-Noor asked to-day if, on entering Constantinople,
+we English made presents. I told him very
+positively, "No;" but, on the contrary, everything
+which the English demanded of the Sultan of the
+Turks he did for us; and because the Sultan was
+weak, England was obliged to protect him against
+the encroachments of the other Christian nations.</p>
+
+<p>I was much surprised to hear to-day that En-Noor
+begged a black burnouse from Barth. The
+old Sheikh is a Tuarick every inch of him. Nevertheless,
+it is too bad to beg the things which we wear
+to protect us from the cold and the heat. Barth, I
+believe, has not yet made the Sheikh a present, and he
+is coming Hateetah over my worthy friend. Overweg
+has given the Sheikh a cloth jacket, which he could
+<a name="page120" id="page120"></a><span class="pageno">[120]</span>
+ill spare. I feel most determinedly disposed to
+give nothing more; but in justice I have to add,
+that his highness sends regularly the milk in the
+morning, that he gave me a piece of gour-nut
+on the road, and that he sent me a few dates at
+my request! These are great things for Tuaricks;
+so, "patience."</p>
+
+<p><i>16th.</i>&mdash;I rose at daylight; the cold was moderate,
+morning foggy as yesterday. People say we shall
+be only nine days from this going to Damerghou,
+but I will give them twelve. All the old men in
+this country apply to the Taleb for medicine to
+restore their powers. They very unwillingly relinquish
+the exercise of the functions which give them
+most delight; but nature is stronger than all things,
+and they must submit to its inevitable course. In a
+country like Africa, where woman is only thought of
+for one purpose, it chagrins these old fellows to see
+all their nice plump slave-girls about them, and to
+find themselves past and gone, so far as this state of
+existence is concerned. En-Noor and Hateetah
+both made this kind of application to the Taleb.
+When I was alone in my former journey in the
+desert, I had also the same kind of experience.</p>
+
+<p>We came two hours to-day to the well of
+Anfesas, before the mountain of Baghzem. Our
+course was through valleys and rocks, as yesterday,
+and, indeed, always in this country; for there is
+very little variation in the landscape. Baghzem,
+instead of being the high mountain pictured to me<a name="page121" id="page121"></a><span class="pageno">[121]</span>
+by the Ghadamsee merchants, is, at this view of it,
+only a low range. Two little things observed to-day
+were, first, a "traveller's sharpening stone," on
+which every person passing by sharpened his dagger
+or his sword: next, were heaps of sand scraped
+together, and sticks or stalks of herbage stuck on
+the top, as frail marks of the route, corresponding
+to the heaps of stone which mark in line the routes
+of the Sahara. There was also a mosque formed of
+boughs of trees; that is, a low wall of the groundplan
+of a mosque made of boughs of trees, like the
+walls of stone in other places. The trees were as
+before, always those full of thorns, like the tholukh;
+many of the species bearing what is called the date
+of this country. No animals of game were seen,
+except a solitary hare; but there were marks of the
+foot of the mohur, or large gazelle.</p>
+
+<p>The lading of the camels in the morning takes
+always an hour and a-half: we have few people,
+compared with the number of beasts of burden.</p>
+
+<p>However, under the leadership of En-Noor, who
+has now decked himself in a fine yellow burnouse,
+a sort of ensign of authority, the caravan marches
+in great order and tranquillity.</p>
+
+<p>The inhabitants of Damerghou are said to be
+a mixture of Kohlans and Tuaricks; the latter,
+however, receding into the interior. But if the
+Tuaricks have dispossessed the Kohlans, they have
+almost become Kohlans themselves, forgetting their
+own language and their own customs and manners.<a name="page122" id="page122"></a><span class="pageno">[122]</span>
+This would naturally result from their habit of
+taking female slaves from Soudan. Women, of
+course, always teach their children their own language.
+In this way the population becomes in a
+few years amalgamated, the blacks with Tuaricks.</p>
+
+<p><i>17th.</i>&mdash;We stopped here all day, occupied with
+Bornouese. The place is pleasant enough, there
+being a good well of water. A little temporary
+village stands near, composed of the women and
+children belonging to the salt-caravan.</p>
+
+<p><i>18th.</i>&mdash;We halted again another day. After
+this rest of three days for the camels, we are to go
+on quicker. Overweg paid a visit to the temporary
+village, principally to see the women, taking
+with him the M&acirc;lem Ibrahim. He was
+pleasantly received, and notes the fact as the first
+specimen of Soudan hospitality. I also made an
+excursion of an hour to a neighbouring eminence,
+where I had a view from the top of a quartz
+rock of the surrounding landscape of stony hills
+and valleys. On the east and west were ranges
+and groups of mountains; on the north-east and
+towards Bilma, and on the south-west round the
+mountain of Baghzem, the country appeared open.
+North and south were rocks. In the direction of
+our route (south-east) the rocks seem scattered and
+at wide distances, so I expect we shall soon bid
+farewell to the mountains of Aheer. The celebrated
+mount of Baghzem is a mighty mass of rock,
+not high, but apparently of immense breadth. The<a name="page123" id="page123"></a><span class="pageno">[123]</span>
+town of Baghzem is on the western side, and out
+of our route.</p>
+
+<p>I had a little clandestine transaction with
+Madame En-Noor to-day. She sent me cheese
+and milk, and I sent her a ring. The slaves
+brought the cheese stealthily: so, I suppose, the
+Sultan was not to know of it. But they say that
+all the goats belong to the women, and, consequently,
+the milk and cheese; but the camels to
+the men; some women, however, have camels.
+There is a sort of division of male and female property
+in this country.</p>
+
+
+<hr />
+
+<p><a name="page124" id="page124"></a><span class="pageno">[124]</span></p>
+
+
+<h2><a name="chapter8" id="chapter8"></a>CHAPTER VIII.</h2>
+
+<div class="summary">
+<p>We continue our Journey&mdash;Huntsmen&mdash;Gum on the Tholukhs&mdash;The
+Salt-Caravan&mdash;A Bunch of Gum&mdash;Games among the
+Slaves&mdash;Baghzem&mdash;Trees&mdash;Palm of Pharaoh&mdash;Deserted Villages&mdash;Birds'
+Nests&mdash;Wife of En-Noor&mdash;Unan&mdash;Lizards&mdash;Bad
+News&mdash;Christmas day in Africa&mdash;Christmas-boxes&mdash;Begging
+Tuaricks again&mdash;Bargot&mdash;Musicians&mdash;Speculations&mdash;Tribes
+at War&mdash;Parasitical Plant&mdash;Importance of Salt&mdash;Animals&mdash;Agalgo&mdash;Force
+of the Caravan&mdash;Beat of Drum&mdash;Approach
+the Hamadah&mdash;Giraffes&mdash;Poisoned Arrows&mdash;Ear of
+Ghaseb&mdash;Soudan and Bornou Roads.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><i>Dec. 19th.</i>&mdash;We started early, and journeyed on
+eight hours and a-half&mdash;the best day we have had
+since leaving Tintalous. Our course still towards that
+immense block of mountain, the celebrated Baghzem.
+We are now encamped along its side. We
+crossed a large wady with ancient-looking trees,
+having antiquity, in fact, stamped on their trunks,
+all of the tholukh species. The sand of this desert
+is covered with the footsteps or marks of the gazelle
+and hare; but we saw only one gazelle and
+one hare. The gazelle was followed by a stupid
+mongrel-bred dog; it jumped high in the air, and
+was soon out of sight. The Kailouees are no<a name="page125" id="page125"></a><span class="pageno">[125]</span>
+huntsmen. I question whether they have ever
+caught a gazelle or any full-grown animal in their
+lives; they are a stupid set, and their dogs worse
+still in field-sport, though always living in the
+desert. There are huntsmen amongst the Haghars.
+The Kailouees prefer running down men, or rather
+women. All they think of is riding or straying
+from place to place after the women&mdash;this is their
+sport.</p>
+
+<p>This may be called a country of dry wadys.
+The name is appropriate all the year round, except
+on the few days when the floods are seen
+pouring down these seeming beds of rivers. Hereabouts
+are the largest tholukh and other trees
+found in Aheer. Those that grow on high ground
+are small, but from their trunks are picked off,
+by the slaves, pieces of gum. To-day, however, I
+could not succeed in getting a piece. What was
+found was carried to En-Noor. I shall soon
+get a taste of it. We continue with our same
+number of camels; no other detachments of the
+large salt-caravan have yet joined us. En-Noor
+is still very active, riding before and behind,
+seeing that all is right. He is followed by his
+shadow. He wears his yellow burnouse. I have
+heard of no town on this side of Baghzem.</p>
+
+<p>An immense quantity of stone is scattered over
+the route hereabouts. Overweg believes it to be
+basalt, or a species of volcanic stone of similar
+character.</p>
+
+<p><a name="page126" id="page126"></a><span class="pageno">[126]</span></p>
+
+<p>I am preparing myself for my Soudan journeys,
+and, <i>en route</i>, take as much rest as possible.
+Cold winds prevail night and morning, but the
+sun burns a few hours in the day. Certainly now
+is the best season for travelling in this country.
+What it is in Soudan it is impossible to tell.</p>
+
+<p><i>20th.</i>&mdash;We rested to-day. There is a well a short
+distance off, called Tilya. This morning early
+filed by a large division of the salt-caravan, about
+three hundred camels. We passed them yesterday.
+They had also a little merchandise besides salt.
+Some of the people inquired of me if I had found
+my camels. I told them two were still missing.
+They were all strangers, but were, nevertheless,
+civil. I made a short excursion in search of gum
+amongst the tholukh-trees. I was fortunate enough
+to find one piece, or, rather, a small bunch of pellucid
+drops, of a bright amber-colour. The bunch
+was scarcely exuding from the tree on which it
+was found, and was ready to drop when touched,
+hanging by the slenderest connexion. It was even
+somewhat disposed to become liquid. This gum
+is found only on the small young trees. The
+taste was very pleasant. It is astonishing how
+little gum has been picked off these trees by our
+people, although we have passed tens of thousands
+of them <i>en route</i>.</p>
+
+<p>The slaves of the caravan were having a game
+amongst themselves this morning. They brought
+into my tent a man bound as dead, and I was<a name="page127" id="page127"></a><span class="pageno">[127]</span>
+obliged to pay a handkerchief to relieve myself
+of the bad omen. Such a thing is considered a
+horrible thing if you do not buy away the ill effects
+of it. This is certainly an easy way of collecting
+money and goods. It was, however, amusing to
+see the fellow, how still he lay; truly it was as
+still as death. The ceremony itself arose out of
+the culprit, or man bound, having lost our camels,
+a circumstance which has detained us here to-day.
+The herdsman was thus punished for his neglect;
+and so all these African people have an amusing
+way of turning their misfortunes into fun, as well
+as of making a profit out of them. I have already
+observed before, that every misfortune we have
+suffered has been a benefit to the Kailouees. This
+has made them so careless about what might
+happen to us.</p>
+
+<p><i>21st.</i>&mdash;Our course was generally nearly south,
+but often a little winding. Baghzem was always on
+our right, until we left it behind us, on the north-west.
+This mountain has, probably, been so much
+celebrated in all past times, because it is the most
+conspicuous object on the return route from the
+south to the north. Overweg conjectures that it
+is granite. He had no servant at hand yesterday
+to visit it with him, and he did not like to go alone,
+because it swarms with lions.</p>
+
+<p>We passed to-day mostly through undulating
+country, a sort of ground which, in the Sahara,
+lies generally between the plateaux and the high<a name="page128" id="page128"></a><span class="pageno">[128]</span>
+rocky ranges. From one of the lesser heights we
+had a magnificent view of Baghzem. We passed
+also through and along several fine wadys, lined with
+ancient trees. Perhaps, in some places, full half
+of the trees were decayed, and many only naked
+stumps. The trees were so thick in certain places as
+to deserve the name of forests&mdash;primeval forests&mdash;but,
+I imagine, not to be compared with those of
+America.</p>
+
+<p>Amongst the trees to-day appeared most conspicuously
+the doom-palm. This is the first day
+we have seen it in such numbers. This "palm
+of Pharaoh," as the Moors call it, according to
+their habit of coupling all strange things with
+those ancient monarchs, is found in groups as well
+as isolated trees. When isolate, and also when
+in groups, it very frequently assumes a double-shaped
+trunk, or two large arms spread out or
+divided from a low stump.<a name="anchor11" id="anchor11"></a><a href="#footnote11"
+class="fnanchor">[11]</a> Of the leaves, which
+are called <i>gabba</i>, the people make all their rope.</p>
+
+<p>These trees are now laden with fruit, not ripe.
+The abundance of them gives to the place of our
+encampment a truly tropical aspect. We journeyed
+on to-day eight hours and a-half&mdash;a good, fair day.
+The weather was warm, even a little sultry. As
+to inhabitants, we passed many isolated huts, but
+saw no villages in groups. We also passed the
+ruins of many villages, whose houses were better<a name="page129" id="page129"></a><span class="pageno">[129]</span>
+built than any I have yet seen in this part of
+Aheer. This country has seen its best days; for
+the huts which now take the place of these houses,
+high and well-built of stone and mud, are, indeed,
+miserable. Probably these deserted places are
+some of the towns whose people were carried off
+to Bornou in the recent razzias. At the bottom
+of most of the wadys to-day, water was found at a
+foot depth, though not a copious supply. People
+were at the wells in numbers, watering their cattle.</p>
+
+<p>En-Noor paid me another attention to-day,
+when on camel-back, in presenting to me a piece
+of gour-nut. This is considered a very great compliment.
+As to the fruit itself, I have not yet
+acquired the taste; it is only agreeable if you
+are thirsty, and after chewing it drink water.</p>
+
+<p><i>22d.</i>&mdash;We remain here to-day. It is not so
+cold as it has been.</p>
+
+<p>I am sorry Madame En-Noor has left off the
+milk, though I never cease to send coffee twice
+a-day. I must now, however, send but once, as my
+sugar is getting low.</p>
+
+<p>I observed the beautiful bird's nest which I
+mentioned the other day. It is a perfect piece of
+architecture, far superior to the huts made in this
+country. The only apparent deficiency is, that it
+seems to hang on nothing, or is suspended sometimes
+on a slender straw, at other times on a thin twig.
+The nest is built of straw inside and outside, but the
+inside is of a finer straw. I have not seen the bird
+<a name="page130" id="page130"></a><span class="pageno">[130]</span>
+who is the architect of this wonderful piece of mechanism.
+I observed two species of parasitical
+plants, one of which has a slender trunk, and has
+its root in the earth; and the other, which is entirely
+dependent on the tree over which it spreads
+for all its support and nourishment. Its roots are in
+the very boughs of the tree which bears it. Some
+of our blacks, who were carried over the desert when
+young, and had not seen or observed this phenomenon
+before, burst out laughing. These comicalities
+of vegetation amused them exceedingly. What
+excites the serious attention of cultivated minds
+often produces only laughter in vulgar and untutored
+people. Parasitical plants would be a complete
+study for the botanist here. The doom-tree
+has a smaller and rounder-shaped head than the
+common date-palm; the leaves are spread out very
+like a fan, but I know not whether the doom is
+called the fan-shaped palm.</p>
+
+<p>We are to stay at this place some time&mdash;there
+appears to be no hurry. We shall probably be here
+three days more. The Sultan of Asoudee is visiting
+amongst us, and has concerted with En-Noor that
+all the caravans shall go together, in order that no
+one portion of it shall arrive before the other in
+Damerghou, and so get the ghaseb cheaper; as, of
+course, the early arrivals generally get the better
+bargains. At first I could not understand the
+reason of our all going together; now the thing is
+clear enough.</p>
+
+<p><a name="page131" id="page131"></a><span class="pageno">[131]</span></p>
+
+<p>En-Noor called at my tent in the evening, and
+was very civil. I got a little milk afterwards for
+the tea sent him. The royal family appear now
+to be short of milk. I find that his royal highness
+has in reality only one wife, who is a slave. In
+an African point of view, however, even this is too
+much. His highness confessed to Overweg that
+God gave man his limited time in this as in all
+things. Had the beating I have recorded any
+relation to this bitter reflection?</p>
+
+<p>When the sun is down, the landscape around
+begins to look like Old England, the species of trees
+not being visible. The doom reminds me of the
+shorn elms along the hedges.</p>
+
+<p><i>23d.</i>&mdash;The Sultan of Asoudee sent this morning
+for powder, and was thankful for a small quantity.
+We remained here this day. All the valleys and
+country around are called <i>Unan</i>. This is also the
+name of a well near us, but water is usually obtained
+by scooping out the sand in the bed of the
+valleys, and there are few regular wells; those
+which are dug are destroyed as soon as the rain
+returns. Such alone remain entire as are out of
+the reach, or beyond the range of the periodic
+floods.</p>
+
+<p><i>24th.</i>&mdash;We were not to come on to-day; but
+En-Noor changed his mind, and we journeyed on
+five hours, up the valley of Unan. The eternal
+sameness of the tholukh and doom&mdash;for dooms are
+now in great numbers&mdash;would be wearisome, had we
+<a name="page132" id="page132"></a><span class="pageno">[132]</span>
+not had so much desert before; but we are still
+delighted with the continual occurrence of trees, be
+they of what species they may. There is, besides, a
+great abundance of wild water-melons, which the
+people sometimes eat. They are very small, but
+hard and sound. The lizard, which almost through
+the whole desert was found darting about and
+around the camels' feet, has now disappeared. It
+would be a curious inquiry for a naturalist to endeavour
+to account for its disappearance, for the
+nature of the soil has not so much changed. The
+only difference&mdash;but perhaps this is great for the
+lizard&mdash;is that hereabouts occur periodic rains, which
+deluge the land for a few days in the year; and
+during these few days, probably, all the land lizards
+found in low places would be destroyed.</p>
+
+<p>This is Christmas-eve; a sorry one for us all!
+We receive no news but bad news. For to-day a
+man came up to us, who said he left Tripoli three
+months ago, and that the cholera had been very
+severe in Tripoli, making many victims; but he
+brought no particular news for us. He came by
+the way of Ghadamez and Gh&acirc;t, and yet had heard
+nothing of our misfortunes on the frontier. I suppose
+the people of Gh&acirc;t had already ceased to talk
+about us and our affairs; for here in the desert, as
+elsewhere, things are soon forgotten. We saw little
+of the rest of the caravan <i>en route</i>, but if we ever see
+the whole of the camels going with us, and the
+division of Aghadez, I am quite sure they will never
+<a name="page133" id="page133"></a><span class="pageno">[133]</span>
+reach the exaggerated number of 10,000! All
+numbers are dreadfully exaggerated in Africa.</p>
+
+<p><i>25th.</i>&mdash;Christmas-day! My second Christmas
+day in Africa during this journey. We have
+nothing to make a merry day of; but we must try
+and cheer ourselves up by the thought that we are
+still spared, after passing through so many dangers,
+and amidst a people naturally hostile to us, and
+only softened by fear of the Turks, and by possession
+of the goods of the Government, which they have
+taken one way or other. Yet some of the people
+appear of a more kindly nature, and Overweg has
+experienced a little hospitality in the huts retired
+from the road, or sequestered in the surrounding
+valleys.</p>
+
+<p>Gracious God! make us all thankful for health
+and strength: may we ever praise thy protecting
+care of us and our mission. For the sake of our
+Saviour, born on this day, pardon all our sins; give
+us grace to lead a new life, and a most willing mind
+to receive Jesus as the Lord our righteousness! O
+God, have mercy upon all our friends and relations,
+and give them the will to receive the Saviour, born
+on this day, as their only chance of salvation! O
+God, have mercy upon Africa, and on all men!</p>
+
+<p>Some musicians came this morning to salute us
+with a little of their rough music, a drum and a
+clarionet. I gave them three rings and a little
+sugar. I have very little to bestow, and were I to
+be more generous, or to make an effort to give them
+<a name="page134" id="page134"></a><span class="pageno">[134]</span>
+anything like a Christmas gift, I should then have all
+the people upon me, begging everything I had left.
+Yesterday I spoke a few words to Hamma, son-in-law
+of En-Noor, and he immediately asked me for a
+turban. I had not spoken to him for several weeks,
+or only saluted him with a few words, in order to
+avoid his begging. This man has already had from
+me presents to the amount of fifty dollars! Thus I
+am cut off from all conversation with these people,
+and have no practice in speaking the languages of
+the interior. I must try to get on better than this.
+Overweg, as doctor, is better off. The sick, and the
+people who bring the sick, must talk to him, and
+must receive a favour from him. And he frequently
+gets a few cheeses in return. The women make
+extraordinary propositions. The other day they
+offered him a slave or a bullock for a medicine to
+produce a child.</p>
+
+<p>The place of our encampment is called Bargot,
+which I believe is also the name of a well, near or
+about an hour and a-half distant. I have also heard
+the name of Bergu. Yesterday we passed some
+ruins of houses, built of stone and mud. I am glad
+that Barth borrowed my Bible, and is reading to-day.
+Overweg also was the first to propose prayers on
+Sundays when we are staying long together in one
+place.</p>
+
+<p>We are now near the Hamadah, which is a
+journey of full four days without water. We arrive
+at the water on the morning only of the fifth<a name="page135" id="page135"></a><span class="pageno">[135]</span>
+day. I gave a Christmas-box to all the servants of
+the expedition, seven persons, each a cotton handkerchief
+and a ring. This is all I could spare.
+Yusuf had a silk handkerchief and no ring. The
+kind of ring esteemed here is one having a good
+imitation of a stone, and the metal is as good as
+gold for these people. With the exception of the
+Gatronee and my mahadee, the rest ill deserved their
+Christmas-box, but it is necessary to forget and to
+forgive. However, I am now more strict with
+them, as we are leaving the Tuaricks, amongst
+whom some of our servants became almost Tuaricks
+themselves in manners.</p>
+
+<p>The Sultan of Asoudee is still with us, and keeps
+up a sort of state about him, although he is a poor
+weak fellow indeed, compared to En-Noor. He has
+not paid us a visit, and we have not seen him. En-Noor,
+probably, does not wish to bother us with
+such a visit. The musicians who saluted us this
+morning came from him, but they did not know
+it was a feast-day of Christians, and only came to
+pick up what they could get. I sent Madame
+En-Noor a piece of white loaf-sugar, and told her
+it was a Christmas-box. She received it with many
+thanks; so I have chronicled all our doings this
+day. I read the two first chapters of St. Luke in
+Arabic. We had no provisions, or anything with
+which we could produce the resemblance of a
+plum-pudding. As to roast beef, we have some<a name="page136" id="page136"></a><span class="pageno">[136]</span>
+bits of preserved beef, which we eat with our baseen
+and hamsa.</p>
+
+<p>Amidst so many uncertainties in Central Africa
+we may not see another Christmas-day. O God!
+whenever the time of our departure is come, may
+we be found relying for salvation on that Saviour,
+thine only-begotten Son, born on this day.</p>
+
+<p>Overweg and I conversed late at night on the
+mechanism of the heavens, and the antiquity of
+the world, according to the received theories of
+astronomers and geologists; the dark and black
+vault above, sprinkled over with brilliant points,
+being the object which first set our thoughts in
+motion. The stars are time itself, and also illustrations
+of the passage of light through the universe.
+The earth was once a hotter orb, passing successively
+from a vaporous to a fluid, and then a solid
+state. The northern climes were once torrid zones,
+from the evidence of the fossil remains and from
+coals, which are masses of tropical trees. Such
+were the speculations in which we indulged.<a name="anchor12" id="anchor12"></a><a href="#footnote12"
+class="fnanchor">[12]</a></p>
+
+<p><i>26th.</i>&mdash;We stay here to-day. There is some
+trouble amongst those restless tribes, the Kaltadak
+and Kalfada&iuml;; and Yusuf was sent for this<a name="page137" id="page137"></a><span class="pageno">[137]</span>
+morning by En-Noor to write some letters for him
+to these marauding tribes. They are fighting
+amongst themselves. The route from the North
+will never be safe for Europeans until these tribes
+are properly subjugated; and when will that time
+come? It is now reported that we all go to
+Zinder. I shall be glad of this opportunity to get
+a few dollars, and then make the best of my way
+to Sakkatou. But our delay here renders this
+trip always less certain, and seems to point out
+that I shall go first to Bornou.</p>
+
+<p>The most frequent parasitical plant, which is
+found upon nearly all the tholukhs, is called <i>koushi</i>
+in Haussa, and <i>barango</i> in Bornou. It is a fine
+plant, and its flower is not unlike the woodbine or
+honeysuckle, but devoid of all fragrance. The
+leaves are succulent, full of moisture, in shape a
+long oval, the longest not more than an inch and a
+quarter. This parasite also fastens itself on other
+trees, and often kills the branches from which it
+draws its strength&mdash;a real sap-sucker. The karembo
+frequently dies in its embraces.</p>
+
+<p>Hamma, the son-in-law of En-Noor, is not to go
+with us, on account of the quarrels with the Kalfada&iuml;
+and the Kaltadak. He is exceedingly disappointed,
+for it deprives him of making anything for
+himself in Haussa; and En-Noor keeps him very
+poor indeed, as his highness does everybody about
+him.</p>
+
+<p>The salt-caravan is the affair of life and death<a name="page138" id="page138"></a><span class="pageno">[138]</span>
+for Aheer; and the reason is now clear to me why
+it is that En-Noor goes every year with it, and
+directs and superintends its movements. This is the
+greatest service he can render to his country, and
+the Kailouees generally. Without this salt the
+population of Aheer would soon all perish, or emigrate
+to Soudan. The other commerce of the
+country could not suffice for the support of the
+inhabitants.</p>
+
+<p><i>27th.</i>&mdash;We had a visit from the people of the
+country before starting; they appear to be a fine
+race of men, whiter than most of the Kailouees, and
+nearly all tall. In these nomade districts the weakly
+children generally die off, leaving only the robust.
+We journeyed on southwards five hours, through
+wadys formed by the force of the waters, gradually
+approaching the great Hamadah. The doom now
+disappeared, and most of the trees dependent on
+much water; for here the wadys are all shallow.
+Footmarks of the ostrich, gazelle, hare, habara,
+and some other interesting animals, cover this portion
+of the desert. The gazelles have more room,
+and the ostriches also. The former, besides, are out
+of the way of the lion; for this beast seldom pursues
+its prey across the desert plains.</p>
+
+<p>People say we shall see many animals in the
+Hamadah, because the lion does not come there. A
+large gazelle was taken this evening by some of the
+caravan.</p>
+
+<p>A few locusts and many fine butterflies were<a name="page139" id="page139"></a><span class="pageno">[139]</span>
+busy about. We are encamped at a place called
+Agalgo, or Agallegu. There is a well at the distance
+of an hour; so that the number of days during
+which no water is found is reduced to three: but
+this water is a sort of collection from the rain remaining
+beyond its time, and is not always found.</p>
+
+<p>We are now on the edge of the plateau. En-Noor
+said to-day, "There are five thousand camels
+with us;" but I question whether there be more than
+two thousand. It is of great importance to ascertain
+this, for thus only the force of the country may be
+estimated. We are now said to be eight days from
+Damerghou.</p>
+
+<p>The Sultan of Asoudee has detained many of
+En-Noor's young people, to protect the country in
+case there be any troubles with the Kalfada&iuml;.</p>
+
+<p>Several pieces of scoria, or lava, were found on
+the road, showing a district here once to have had
+active volcanoes. The granite begins to disappear,
+to be replaced by sandstone. This sandstone, generally,
+according to Overweg, forms plateaux;
+whereas granite is found in rocks and ridges in the
+midst of valleys.</p>
+
+<p><i>28th.</i>&mdash;We started early. The camels move on
+at the beginning of their day's work to the beating
+of the <i>kanga</i>, or drum. We have two or three
+drums, but the drummers have little skill, and the
+beating is always the same monotonous sound.
+Our course varied from S.E. to S.W., but lay
+always southward, through shallow valleys, or low,
+<a name="page140" id="page140"></a><span class="pageno">[140]</span>
+indented, or scooped-out plains; the whole country
+being what the people call <i>hamadah</i>, or plateau.
+All the large trees have disappeared with the doom-palm.
+Nevertheless there are everywhere the marks
+of water. Yet the rain cannot fall here so much
+as in the mountainous regions which we have left
+behind, for it is high ground only which brings
+down the rain in Africa; except, indeed, near the
+equator. As yesterday, the sand and soft earth are
+covered with the footmarks of gazelles, ostriches,
+the habara, and even the giraffe. The people, in
+fact, say we shall see the giraffe before we arrive at
+Damerghou. But of these animals, who have left
+thus the impression of their feet on the sand, we
+saw not one. Indeed it is quite a matter of luck to
+fall in with animals in the desert. I have seen but
+very few. My colleagues have both encountered
+lions and monkeys, neither of which have I seen.</p>
+
+<p>We have come to-day seven hours and a-half, a
+very good march for En-Noor. The nights are
+cold enough; there is also a fresh breeze, generally
+from north-east, every day: nevertheless, the sun
+burns hot. The sky has always now a few clouds,
+and the atmosphere is a little thick and misty. We
+have with us various queer characters; amongst the
+rest, a fellow who boasts of his having killed many
+people with poisoned arrows. When I come near
+him I always attack him, not, indeed, with his
+favourite weapon, but with irony. I tell him,
+"Ah! poisoned arrows kill many people.&mdash;What<a name="page141" id="page141"></a><span class="pageno">[141]</span>
+matters it?&mdash;There is no God" (looking up, and
+saying <i>Babo Allah!</i>) This has had its effect once
+or twice, and he has confessed it is not so very fine
+to kill people with poisoned arrows.</p>
+
+<p>Evening came on, but I heard nothing of water.
+We are encamped near a small hill. I looked
+to-day again attentively at our strings of camels.
+Instead of five thousand, I do not believe there are
+more than five hundred. We have few people with
+us in comparison with the number of camels, and
+these are many of them slaves of the masters who
+are remaining behind in Aheer. The disturbed
+state of the country has prevented many persons of
+consequence from joining us. To-day, my mahadee
+brought me an ear of ghaseb, of immense length&mdash;about
+three times the length of the ghaseb grown in
+Ghadamez and other oases of the Sahara; nine times
+the length of an ear of wheat. This was found
+growing on the road, and intimates that we are
+approaching Soudan very fast. I also picked up
+to-day camomile flowers and the senna-plant.</p>
+
+<p>Explanation of Soudan and Bornou common
+words for articles of dress, food, instruments for
+manufacturing:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p><i>Jebus</i>, leathern bag.</p>
+
+<p><i>Foofoo</i>, paste of Indian corn.</p>
+
+<p><i>Bouza</i>, a species of beer. In Waura, near the
+western coast, it is made of guinea-corn, honey,
+Chili pepper, a root of coarse grass; in Kanou and
+Wada&iuml; it is made of only ghaseb and honey, and is
+<a name="page142" id="page142"></a><span class="pageno">[142]</span>
+therefore more pure and agreeable. It is called by
+some, acid beer.<a name="anchor13" id="anchor13"></a><a href="#footnote13" class="fnanchor">[13]</a></p>
+
+<p><i>Kolla</i>, the gour-nut, called "African," or
+"Soudan."</p>
+
+<p><i>Shea</i>, the butter-tree.</p>
+
+<p><i>Manioc</i>, root. The main article of food in
+Congo, used as flour.</p>
+
+<p>I trust, under the auspices of a good Providence,
+to arrive strong in Soudan. There our greatest
+enemy is fever! I walked a little to-day, and found
+myself better for the exercise; but, as a rule, I avoid
+exposing myself to fatigue.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="footnote11" id="footnote11"></a><a href="#anchor11">[11]</a> I believe
+the trunk of the doom is always thus divided and
+subdivided.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="footnote12" id="footnote12"></a><a href="#anchor12">[12]</a> I have
+not thought it advisable to abridge or alter this <i>na&iuml;ve</i>
+account of a Christmas-day on the southern borders of the Sahara.
+Mr. Richardson seems already to feel certain presentiments of the fate
+that awaited him. In other places I have omitted devotional passages;
+but in this it seemed to me that it would be unjust to the memory of
+this amiable traveller to do so.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="footnote13" id="footnote13"></a><a href="#anchor13">[13]</a> In Egypt
+it is made of rice.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p><a name="page143" id="page143"></a><span class="pageno">[143]</span></p>
+
+
+
+<h2><a name="chapter9" id="chapter9"></a>CHAPTER IX.</h2>
+
+<div class="summary">
+<p>Enter the Hamadah&mdash;Home of the Giraffe&mdash;Water of Chidugulah&mdash;Turtles&mdash;Cool
+Wind&mdash;Jerboahs&mdash;Centre of the Sahara&mdash;New-year's
+Eve&mdash;Cold Weather&mdash;Birds of Prey&mdash;Soudan Date&mdash;Burs&mdash;Animals
+on the Plateau&mdash;Young Ostrich&mdash;The
+Tholukh-tree&mdash;Severe Cold&mdash;Eleven Ostriches&mdash;Termination
+of the Desert&mdash;Inasamet&mdash;The Tagama&mdash;Purchases&mdash;People
+begin to improve&mdash;Fruit of the Lote-tree&mdash;Village roofed with
+Skins&mdash;Vast Plain&mdash;Horses&mdash;Approach Damerghou&mdash;Village
+of Gumrek&mdash;Rough Customers&mdash;Wars of the Kilgris and
+Kailouees&mdash;A small Lake&mdash;Guinea-hens&mdash;Vultures&mdash;Party
+of Huntsmen.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><i>Dec. 29th.</i>&mdash;About five hours after we started, the
+route opened into a <i>bon&acirc; fide</i> hamadah. All around
+us stretched a limitless plain. Our course lay
+always south, and we journeyed ten hours, with sand
+in the evening.</p>
+
+<p>Yesterday I had observed a few footmarks of the
+giraffe, but to-day they were everywhere visible.
+They were double, as this animal does not move its
+feet one after another, like the camel or the horse,
+but two of its feet together, or simultaneously. We
+saw the footprints of young as well as old ones.
+This plateau is the real home of the giraffe. No<a name="page144" id="page144"></a><span class="pageno">[144]</span>
+place could be better adapted for such an unwieldy
+creature. There is abundance of small tholukh, on
+which it feeds; all the country is open around to
+it, and it is out of the reach of ferocious animals.
+Towards the evening the marks of the giraffe disappeared,
+and were succeeded by the footprints of
+what is here called the wild ox (but which Overweg
+believes to be a large species of gazelle), so that one
+animal appears to have made room for the other.
+The day was cool and cloudy.</p>
+
+<p>The plain is intersected with shallow beds and
+streams, and in some places evident marks of an
+abundance of water in the rainy season.</p>
+
+<p><i>30th.</i>&mdash;We started early for the well, but did
+not reach it till late in the evening, after a march of
+nine hours. The well is called Chidugulah, and is
+situated on the side of a valley of some depth. In
+the bed of this valley Overweg found some infusoria,
+clay or stone.</p>
+
+<p>Many people started in the night to get water,
+and give their animals a drink. There is but a
+small supply, and what there is has a muddy, chocolate
+colour. The last water we took up from the
+valleys of Asben had a milky hue, so that when the
+coffee was made of it, it looked like <i>caf&eacute; au lait</i>.</p>
+
+<p>Bandits and hostile tribes frequent this well of
+Chidugulah, and rest hereabouts to pillage caravans.
+Our people spoke of the Oulimad, and Overweg
+dreamed he was fighting with them. I dreamed
+the same night of large turtles, for it had been said
+<a name="page145" id="page145"></a><span class="pageno">[145]</span>
+they are found in this plateau, and their marks had
+been traced to-day. I learn now that large turtles,
+two feet and a-half long, and one foot and a-half
+broad, are found here. The back shell of one was
+used for a watering trough by the people we met
+<i>en route</i>. We had sand all day, rising occasionally
+in considerable mounds. I observed the prevailing
+winds in the formation of these mounds; for there
+is always an inclined plane towards the quarter
+whence the wind blows; whilst to where it blows
+the mounds are scarped. The winds prevailing
+now are E.N.E.; and the wind has nearly always
+come from this direction since our arrival in Aheer.
+In another season, however, there may be a total
+change. In full summer it may be south, for what
+we know. In fact, Amankee says, in summer the
+wind always comes from the south. At this season
+the sand is covered with nice herbage in some
+places, but in the hot weather it must be all dried
+up. This is, in truth, the spring time in this country;
+the birds are all laying. There are also young birds
+fledged. In Haussa there is no word for "fledged."</p>
+
+<p>This route must really present, in some parts,
+for many hours together, an ocean of sand; as, I
+think, it is described in the Itinerary procured by
+Davis. To-day the footprints of the giraffe have
+entirely disappeared.</p>
+
+<p>In summer it must be very difficult for large
+caravans to obtain water from this well, for our
+people were full half a day filling four or five skins.
+<a name="page146" id="page146"></a><span class="pageno">[146]</span>
+What a blessing, nevertheless, is the existence of
+the Chidugula, for there is no water for three days
+farther. The boys killed this morning a jerboah,
+or what the Germans call a jumping mouse. I saw
+one yesterday, jumping before my camel's feet.
+There are a great number here. This jerboah is of
+a different colour from those I have seen in Tunis;
+being white all over the lower part of the body and
+neck, straw-coloured on the top of the head and
+along the back; whilst those in Tunis are nearly of
+the same colour as ordinary mice. This species is
+also small, three inches and a-half long, and the
+tail is double the length of the body. The hind legs
+are nearly as long as the body, and the fore legs not
+half an inch. Near the tip of the tail there is an
+inch of black. Many young jerboahs were caught,
+all of the same description. The Haussa people call
+it a mouse, but have besides a special name.</p>
+
+<p>We are now about the middle of the Sahara,
+including the radii of the western and northern
+coasts, and we here find an immense plateau, stretching
+many days north and south, east and west.
+So far Le Brun's conjecture is right, that the central
+parts of Africa are plateaux, or one vast plateau.
+But more of this hereafter. This plateau extends
+to the Bornou route, and how much further east is
+yet to be ascertained. In the west we yet also want
+information. North and south it extends along the
+territory of Aheer some eight days, or about one
+hundred and sixty miles. Overweg reckons the<a name="page147" id="page147"></a><span class="pageno">[147]</span>
+height of the plateau, above the level of the sea, at
+some fifteen hundred feet.</p>
+
+<p><i>31st.</i>&mdash;The last day of the year! One year gone
+in Africa this tour! How many more are to pass?
+Alas! who can tell?&mdash;We came to-day nine hours,
+always south, over a perfect desert-plain, mostly
+sandy. A cold north-east wind was blowing all the
+day. The people dread it as death itself; as well
+they may, for they are nearly naked. Their Soudan
+cotton clothes afford them little or no protection
+against such a bleak north-easter. Europeans are
+astonished to see these people shivering with cold in
+this bleak weather, and forget that they themselves
+are well clothed. This remark is very applicable
+to the northern coast, where hundreds of the poor
+are seen shivering, with only a thin blanket thrown
+around them in the coldest day of winter. When
+they see a European well covered with tight cloth
+clothes, and flannel underneath, they may well call
+out <i>sega</i>, "cold," as they often do; and we are ready
+to laugh, and forget they are naked.</p>
+
+<p>In this part of the desert birds of prey abound.
+We passed to-day some twenty large vultures,
+feeding on a dead camel. When the caravan filed
+by they all took wing, and perched themselves in a
+row on a rising mound of sand, and there waited
+until we had passed before them, like so many
+soldiers. These were black vultures, and of enormous
+breadth of wing. Many wild oxen, or what
+are so called, were seen, and everywhere the footprints
+<a name="page148" id="page148"></a><span class="pageno">[148]</span>
+of ostriches and gazelles. His highness En-Noor
+made us a present of two ostrich eggs, and we
+supped on this out-of-the-way delicacy the last day of
+the year. The date of the black country (Soudan) is
+deserving of notice. It is called in Bornou, <i>bitu</i>; and
+in Haussa, <i>aduwa</i> and <i>tinku</i>, both tree and fruit. Its
+kernel, or stone, is very large, and the little pulpy
+matter upon it has the taste of a bitter sweet. It is
+about the size of an almond, and covered with a
+green husk, a little thick. This fruit is now ripening
+fast in Aheer. The tree is covered with thorns,
+very large, and projecting in every direction. The
+leaves are small, almost without veins, and with a
+thick stalk.</p>
+
+<p>To-day we had the karengia, or bur, with a
+vengeance. En-Noor had already advertised us of
+its appearance hereabouts two days ago. It is certainly
+the most troublesome thing that can well be
+conceived for all travellers, and more so for Europeans.
+This bur is from a species of herbage
+bearing grain, very small, and which the people
+make bazeen of, like ghaseb and other grain. All
+feet of men, women, and animals, were to-day covered
+with this teasing bur.</p>
+
+<p>The animals seen on this plateau, it will be seen,
+are in reality mostly of the harmless kind. The
+giraffe, the wild ox (considered a species of immense
+gazelle, or stag), the gazelle, a large and small
+species, the ostrich, the guinea-fowl, the hobara (in
+Haussa, <i>tuja</i>), various kinds of vultures, the crow,
+<a name="page149" id="page149"></a><span class="pageno">[149]</span>
+many small birds, the lizard (in small numbers), the
+jerboah, the locust, butterflies, and other insects, the
+thob, the large turtle, &amp;c. Overweg says the footmarks
+of the hy&aelig;na were also seen.</p>
+
+<p>En-Noor's people caught a young ostrich, only a
+few hours hatched. It is now kept as a pet. Several
+eggs have been also picked up. The ostrich has
+been seen feeding on the gum of the tholukh-tree.</p>
+
+<p>As to trees, we have still the eternal tholukh, or
+mimosa. What an omnipresent tree is this in
+Africa! The mimosa is found at the Cape, with
+the ethel; it is found in all the northern Sahara,
+and the ethel with it, wherever there is some water,
+as in the wadys of Fezzan. In all the western
+Sahara it abounds, producing the finest gums.
+Consider also the gum-trade at Mogador and Senegal!
+In the plain of Timbuctoo, the mimosa is
+found in scattered forests. Our people pretend,
+however, that the tholukh does not occur in Soudan,
+its place being filled up by various thorny trees,
+much resembling the mimosa. We have around
+us some other stunted shrubs. All trees are
+dwarfish in these plateaux.</p>
+
+<p>Various distinguished characters are amongst the
+servants and slaves of En-Noor. One fellow is
+called the "King of the Donkeys," another wench is
+styled the "Queen of the Goats;" Zumzug is properly
+named <i>Proban berau</i>, "a great thief," from his
+thievish propensities. Then there is the "Lad of
+the Arrows," the fellow who is always boasting of
+<a name="page150" id="page150"></a><span class="pageno">[150]</span>
+how many people he has killed with arrows, &amp;c. &amp;c.;
+but Zumzug requires especial notice from me, on
+account of his having run off to Aghadez with a
+caftan of mine; and also from the curious circumstance
+that En-Noor keeps such a thief amongst
+his slaves, so confounding the honest with the
+thievish servants.</p>
+
+<p><i>January 1, 1851.</i>&mdash;A strong, bleak, north-east
+wind ushers in the New Year. It began yesterday,
+and is likely to continue for some time. Most
+comfortless and disagreeable weather is this for the
+caravan. The people do not like to move, and
+show a decided tendency to hibernation. Some
+camels are also lost&mdash;escaped from the numbed
+fingers of their drivers. I, too, feel it cold; and
+yet there is so much of home in this weather&mdash;this
+keen, bracing air&mdash;that I cannot complain.</p>
+
+<p>Our people caught the camels at length, and
+we proceeded still southwards. After three hours'
+travelling we appeared to have passed the most
+barren portion of the plateau, and came upon a new
+species of tree, called in Haussa, <i>tadana</i>. We have
+this day had a splendid sight of ostriches&mdash;eleven
+feeding in a troop near us, quietly like so many
+sheep&mdash;eccentric birds of their species, showing no
+tendency to scud away. Perhaps I shall never
+see so many again together. They were all black,
+with maybe a white feather or two underneath the
+sombre plumage.</p>
+
+<p>The small tholukh-trees are full of birds' nests.
+<a name="page151" id="page151"></a><span class="pageno">[151]</span>
+In the Northern Sahara a bird's nest was not to be
+seen, but here the trees are all covered with them.
+Amongst the various smaller ones, we came upon a
+huge vulture's nest on a very small tholukh, which
+seemed to bend and look unhappy beneath the
+weight of this den of rapacity and violence. There
+are hereabouts no rocks for the eagles to build
+upon. We halted amidst abundance of herbage and
+small trees, which afforded a little shelter from the
+wind.</p>
+
+<p>It is, perhaps, as well that we begin the year
+with this most bleak and unlovely day. We may
+have a better one to terminate 1851. I was obliged
+to increase my travelling clothes, and put on an
+extra holi on account of the cold wind; and yet
+the temperature was not very low, it being only 46&deg;
+at sunrise. The wind evidently comes over an
+immense extent of plain towards the east, perhaps
+some forty or fifty days' journey. We made six
+hours and a-half.</p>
+
+<p><i>2d.</i>&mdash;We started early, and moved at first to the
+beat of the drum. Already yesterday we had seen
+symptoms that the desert was drawing to a close.
+To-day we fairly got out of it, and entered upon a
+wilderness of small trees. The vegetation has not,
+however, yet improved in proportion to our nearness
+to Soudan; for this dwarf forest of tholukh and
+various other trees cannot be compared to the
+splendid desert vegetation in the Aheer valleys;
+these are pigmy mimosas in comparison with those<a name="page152" id="page152"></a><span class="pageno">[152]</span>
+of Aheer. The surface of the ground is now undulating
+sand and red earth, and every trace of stone
+has almost disappeared; the soil is also covered
+with karengia and other herbs, all dry and sapless.
+We seem to be traversing a limitless stubble-field,
+covered over or sprinkled with small trees. Few
+animals enliven the scene; a crow here and there
+struts or flies. All the small birds seem to have
+sought covert from the cold. The same north-east
+wind as yesterday blows with remorseless strength.</p>
+
+<p>I observed great numbers of ant-hills, and very
+large ones, too. Some of the paths from these hills
+are straighter than the roads made by man over the
+Sahara. So, also, the birds in Aheer, and on this
+route, build better houses for themselves than men
+do. We halted amidst karengia, and had great difficulty
+in finding a place clear of them. En-Noor
+suffers dreadfully from the cold, and we help to
+keep him alive by our coffee, which he drinks
+shivering, and then admits to have given him renovated
+heat and strength. This coffee keeps the old
+fellow in a good humour, and he is extremely civil
+to us.</p>
+
+<p><i>3d.</i>&mdash;We started early, and made four hours
+and a-half, when we stopped at the village Inasamet,
+or Unwessemet. The weather is still the
+same, and the route continues to wind through a
+scattered wilderness of small trees, amongst which
+Overweg thought he had discovered a species of
+wild orange.</p>
+
+<p><a name="page153" id="page153"></a><span class="pageno">[153]</span></p>
+
+<p>We now see signs of approaching habitations,
+such as flocks of sheep straying, and droves of oxen
+feeding begin to appear. There seems to be a
+great number of birds of prey hereabouts. I counted
+at least thirty vultures, who watched the passing
+of the caravan, in hopes to see a camel fall and
+be abandoned.</p>
+
+<p>We encamped a stone's throw beyond the houses.
+The well is called by the same name as the village.
+The inhabitants are Tuaricks, and some of them of
+a very pure race, almost white; whilst others, again,
+are dark: they are called Tagama. The women
+and children all came out to sell their cheeses, and a
+few other things. I purchased two small fowls and
+a good number of cheeses, which seem to be the
+principal articles of produce: they are made quite
+square, three or four inches a side, and a quarter of
+an inch thick. I purchased these with imitation
+silver rings, of which the people are immensely
+fond, preferring them to the imitation gold ring.
+I got two cheeses for a ring&mdash;a plain hoop: the
+fowls cost each three of these toys. The women
+and girls bothered me much with their curiosity and
+their bartering. Some of them are as stout as the
+Mooresses of the coast, and nearly all are well-looking;
+many with very good features, and fair
+for this country. All are polite enough, men,
+women, and children. We are glad to find the
+people more civil, the nearer we approach to Soudan.
+<a name="page154" id="page154"></a><span class="pageno">[154]</span>
+We pray and hope this amendment may
+continue; for hitherto, since we left Mourzuk, we
+have always had the people, with the exception of
+those of Tintalous, more or less hostile towards us.
+Some of our customers came to ask if the rings were
+really silver, for the blacksmith of the village had
+said they were only pewter. We replied, they were
+<i>de-de</i> silver; that is, looked like it, or equal to it.
+They are, indeed, a most excellent imitation of silver,
+and answer quite as well the purpose of adorning
+these Targhee beauties.</p>
+
+<p>I saw to-day, on a single bough of tholukh,
+and a very small bough, three birds' nests suspended
+in a festoon. I tasted the wild water-melons
+of this part of the Sahara, and found
+them bitterness itself. But I am told by our
+Gatronee, that the Tibboos have a method of extracting
+the bitterness from this wild fruit. The people
+brought me <i>en route</i> some fruit, called in Bornou
+<i>kusulu</i>, and <i>mageria</i> in Haussa; that is, the <i>nebek</i> or
+fruit of the sider or lote-tree. They were dry, but
+sweet and nice, and of a pleasant, acid sweet. Provisions
+thus are becoming more plentiful and varied.
+Dr. Barth has bought some meat of <i>el-wagi</i>, the name
+given by Yusuf for the bugar wahoush, or wild ox
+of the Arabs.</p>
+
+<p>The greater part of the trees in this region are
+of the species called in Haussa, <i>tadani</i>, and in Bornouese,
+<i>kabi</i>. Were these trees adorned with<a name="page155" id="page155"></a><span class="pageno">[155]</span>
+leaves&mdash;they are now fallen off, in consequence of
+the cold&mdash;the country about would seem covered
+with a dense forest.</p>
+
+<p>Our arrival amongst the Tagama is a new era
+in our journeying, it being some time since we saw
+any men besides Kailouees. Overweg thinks the
+men thieves and bad, and the women lascivious;
+but I observed in their conduct nothing different
+from other Tuaricks. A man, however, offered
+several women to Barth. I have never yet had
+such offers. Amongst the things brought for sale
+are young ostriches and the eggs of ostriches. I ate
+in the evening some flesh of the giraffe; it is pretty
+well tasted, and something like beef. Hunting the
+giraffe is a great occupation with the people of this
+village, and the flesh of the animal a source of subsistence
+for them. They have, however, besides,
+cattle and flocks; and the karengia, which has proved
+such an annoyance to us, is the principal farinaceous
+food of these Tagama, as the bou rekaba is the principal
+food of poor families in Aheer. Inasamet
+has, perhaps, a hundred huts, covered with the skins
+of the bullock, and probably of the giraffe. The
+latter animal is hunted by men mounted on horseback,
+who throw their spears at it, and wound it
+under the belly. This is said to be the only way of
+killing it, for the rest of its body is covered with a
+sort of rhinoceros hide, of great thickness. Of this
+hide they make famous sandals, which wear long.</p>
+
+<p>It is difficult to decide how far this immense<a name="page156" id="page156"></a><span class="pageno">[156]</span>
+plain&mdash;which extends as far as Aghadez on the
+N.W., to Gouber on the S.W., perhaps as far as
+the plain of Senezrouft, on the route of Timbuctoo&mdash;passing,
+besides, eastwards across the route of
+Bornou,&mdash;how far this vast space of desert is a plateau
+to the surrounding countries; that is, whether
+higher or lower than their level. We do not think
+it is a plateau in reference to Aheer. There is
+another route to Damerghou, westward of this, on
+which is situate the forest of Kob-kob, the place
+mentioned in the itinerary which I procured from
+the people of Ghadamez.</p>
+
+<p><i>4th.</i>&mdash;The morning was cold, with wind. The
+Tagama, I observe, have many horses. Like
+their more civilised brethren in Europe, these
+people find this the most tractable and convenient
+animal in every case where the desert does not
+interfere.</p>
+
+<p>We came south seven hours and a-quarter;
+after four, the wavy country broke up into a deep
+valley; in another hour, on the right, was seen a
+pool of rain-water&mdash;a small lake, stretching nearly a
+mile long. The country, as yesterday, was undulating,
+and covered with a dwarf forest; but the
+trees were thicker, and the ground was covered
+with dried herbage, mostly karengia. It is our constant
+occupation, morning and evenings, for half an
+hour, to pick the burs out of our clothes. The
+animals seen were mostly small birds; some flights
+of blackbirds, two-thirds the size of the English<a name="page157" id="page157"></a><span class="pageno">[157]</span>
+blackbird; and crows and doves in numbers. Near
+the water I picked up the feathers of the guinea-fowl,
+and the piece of a shell of a large turtle. Burrows
+of the hy&aelig;na and the ant-eater dotted the
+ground. En-Noor told me that lions also abound
+in the thickets. The lions conceal themselves in the
+trees, and the hy&aelig;nas burrow under ground.</p>
+
+<p>Our people are now on the threshold of Damerghou,
+and do not know yet what route they will
+take from this country to Kanou; whether by
+Tesaoua or Zinder. Even En-Noor seems quite
+undecided what he shall do.</p>
+
+<p><i>5th.</i>&mdash;We came well on to-day, eight hours and
+twenty minutes. After four or five hours we passed
+on the roadside a dozen huts, with skin-roofs or
+coverings. The people are some light, some dark;
+variegated, like most of the Tuaricks. The children
+of eight or nine years go quite naked. After two
+hours more we came upon the large village of Gumrum,
+or Gumrek. I saw many people, light and
+dark; the women are fat and bold, free in their
+conversation; and the men evidently fanatical. The
+latter shouted that we ought not to pass, because we
+were infidels. One fellow was very savage, and
+cursed me; he was an old grey-headed gentleman,
+and seemed quite excited. These people are also of
+the tribe of the Tagama. Amankee came up to me,
+whispering, "These are like the Kalfada&iuml;, they
+would rob you as they did, only they are all in the
+hands of the Sofo (En-Noor)."</p>
+
+<p><a name="page158" id="page158"></a><span class="pageno">[158]</span></p>
+
+<p>The inhabitants of Gumrek have much cattle.
+We ourselves saw some five or six hundred head,
+and they must have more than double this number,
+besides flocks and horses. The men mostly ride
+horses, but their breed is miserably small and ill-looking.
+People in poor circumstances mount bullocks,
+as do all the women.</p>
+
+<p>To the west, lately, there came off a great razzia.
+All this country around, for some hundred miles, is
+the noted theatre of such expeditions, which are
+mostly undertaken against the salt and other caravans,
+where there is considerable booty expected.
+The smaller caravans escape. When the Kilgris
+and Kailouees are in open hostility, they generally
+make this the theatre of their battles; the former
+carrying off the salt of the latter. This hostility is,
+like that of most of the wild tribes, of ancient date.
+The Kilgris have been driven from all this part of
+Asben by the Kailouees. The houses we passed in
+ruins are said to have been once occupied by the
+Kilgris. If so, they evidently were in former times
+powerful and opulent, and have since become relaxed
+and pusillanimous. At any rate, they have been
+expelled by the fiercer and more ferocious Kailouees.
+The Oulimad also come here to plunder occasionally.
+At Gurarek we saw a phenomenon which, after so
+much desert, gladdened indeed our eyes. This was
+a fine sheet of water, of great extent, covered with a
+forest of luxurious trees. It was a genuine Soudan
+picture, and we gazed at it with delight. I nevertheless
+<a name="page159" id="page159"></a><span class="pageno">[159]</span>
+thought of the pestilential exhalations of the
+stagnant pools further on in Soudan. The ground
+holds the water tightly, for wells are sunk near
+it of some depth before water is reached. This
+pool, or lake, dries up during the heat of summer,
+as is proved by the existence of wells sunk in their
+beds.</p>
+
+<p>The country to-day was extremely pleasant, like
+some parts of the undulating county of Essex, after
+the harvest is gathered. I scarcely expected to find
+such reminiscences in Africa, on the frontiers of
+Pamerghou. If the vegetation were all in leaf,
+the scenery would be quite cheerful and happy-looking.
+The trees to-day thickened into forests
+down some slopes&mdash;but there is nothing tropical in
+all this verdure; one or two plants, at most, are
+all that could be considered as such. Many
+gazelles glanced on either hand as we proceeded:
+the guinea-hen was in great numbers, thirty
+or forty together, old ones and chickens. They
+run very quickly through the forests, and cannot
+be taken in the day. At night, however, some are
+snared. They feed on the karengia, and get immensely
+plump. Their flesh is greatly esteemed.
+Doves showed themselves in flights; and many
+beautiful small birds, some strangers to my eyes.
+One especially, a little black-and-white fellow, with
+an immense bushy tail. Vultures, in company with
+a variegated crow, were feeding on a dead camel.
+This curious crow has a white neck and breast.<a name="page160" id="page160"></a><span class="pageno">[160]</span>
+What a truly Saharan group is that which I have
+just noticed. The vulture feeding on a camel fallen
+in the desert, towards the end of an arduous
+journey!</p>
+
+<p>We met a party of huntsmen, with three bullocks
+to carry their ghaseb. They had six dogs,
+and told us they were off after the giraffe. A few
+lizards now and then glanced over the path, and
+at every thirty or forty yards rose a busy ant-hill.</p>
+
+<p>En-Noor and I converged to-day from the backs
+of our respective camels. He asked me particularly
+if I liked stout women, and whether stout women
+were found in England. I replied, gravely, that
+this species occurred in all Christian countries; a
+piece of zoological information which seemed highly
+to gratify him. His highness still pretends he does
+not know where he is going&mdash;that is, whether to
+Zinder or Tesaoua.</p>
+
+<p>We encamped near a shallow wady, the first
+we have seen in this part of the country; i.e. a
+well-defined dry bed of a river.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p><a name="page161" id="page161"></a><span class="pageno">[161]</span></p>
+
+
+
+<h2><a name="chapter10" id="chapter10"></a>CHAPTER X.</h2>
+
+<div class="summary">
+<p>My Barracan&mdash;Spontaneous Civility on arrival in Damerghou&mdash;Ghaseb
+Stubble&mdash;Cactus&mdash;Water-Melons&mdash;Party of Tuaricks&mdash;Boban
+Birni&mdash;Huts of Damerghou&mdash;Tagelel&mdash;Women of the
+Village&mdash;Population of the Country&mdash;Complaisant Ladies&mdash;Festivities&mdash;Aquatic
+Birds&mdash;Dancing&mdash;A Flatterer&mdash;A Slave
+Family&mdash;A new Reason for Wife-beating&mdash;Hazna Dancers&mdash;Damerghou,
+common ground&mdash;Purchase of Ghaseb&mdash;Dethroned
+Sultan&mdash;Yusuf&mdash;Mohammed Tunisee&mdash;Ophthalmia&mdash;Part with
+Barth and Overweg&mdash;Presents to Servants&mdash;Sheikh of Fumta&mdash;Yakobah
+Slave&mdash;Applications for Medicine&mdash;Boban Birni&mdash;Forest&mdash;At
+length enter Bornou ground&mdash;Daazzenai&mdash;Tuarick
+Respectabilities&mdash;Detachment of the Salt-Caravan.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><i>Jan. 6th.</i>&mdash;We came seven hours. The weather
+is always thick, as for many days past; but the wind
+not so strong, nor the air so cold. We had even
+some drops of rain; and, probably, the rain here is
+not so constant, in its fall in summer-time, as is generally
+supposed. I took out my last barracan, as
+some precaution against the threatening clouds.
+This barracan excited everybody's attention; every
+one admired it, and asked for it. I was plagued to
+death by the people, and I vowed I would not take
+it out again be the weather what it might. The<a name="page162" id="page162"></a><span class="pageno">[162]</span>
+same demand had been repeatedly made for my
+poor carpet; so, on the following day, I took it off
+from the camel.</p>
+
+<p>An hour before we pitched tent; we passed a
+town on the top of a hill composed of huts, some
+covered with skins, and some made of straw. Our
+encampment is in a wady, near a cluster of hovels.
+The people came running to welcome us, by
+offering ghaseb for sale. Two volunteered to
+assist us in clearing a clean place for our tents.
+This being the first act of spontaneous assistance
+which we had witnessed from Tripoli to Damerghou,
+I gave them each a ring. We are now fairly
+in Damerghou; and to-day we saw the first specimens
+of the culture in this part of Africa. The
+ground is cleared by burning, as on the coast;
+which burning serves partly to supply the place of
+manure. The people, apparently slaves, were burning
+and raking up the ashes and stubble, with rakes
+made of fallen branches of trees. We passed
+through wide tracts of ghaseb stubble. Some of
+the stalks were seven or eight feet high, but the
+ears were not larger than those seen at Ghadamez&mdash;about
+eight or nine inches.</p>
+
+<p>Amongst the plants observed yesterday was the
+cactus, with a smooth leaf. Water-melons were
+also found in the road, mostly quite good and sweet,
+but some white ones perfectly tasteless. None,
+even those cultivated, are equal to the melons of
+the coast; there are no mealy ones here.</p>
+
+<p><a name="page163" id="page163"></a><span class="pageno">[163]</span></p>
+
+<p>We were met by a party of Tuaricks, who came
+to salute En-Noor, mounted on horseback. As we
+had had some very rough customers amongst the
+Tagama, I took little notice of them, and continued
+eating my bread and cheese. At this the
+people of the caravan laughed. They thought we
+ought always to receive these strangers, Tuaricks,
+with fear and trembling. I deemed the contrary
+plan more politic. However, had I known they
+were official persons, and one son of a sheikh of a
+town, I should have given them a more civil
+welcome.</p>
+
+<p><i>7th.</i>&mdash;We came eight hours and a-half south,
+over an undulating country, intersected with small
+wadys, and through ghaseb stubble. All was wavy
+ground, and bare of trees. There is, however, a
+small hill, at a distance of some ten miles from our
+encampment, called Boban Birni, "Great City," of
+conical form. Numerous villages were scattered
+along the whole line of route, a few of some size.
+The form of the huts is like that of beehives.
+Around them are small magazines of ghaseb, supported
+on wooden stakes, very like corn-stacks. The
+inhabitants of these Damerghou villages are blacks,
+with features like the Bornouese. In fact, they speak
+the Bornou languages, and are said to have been
+the product of past razzias in that country by the
+Tuaricks.</p>
+
+<p>Damerghou is the granary of Asben, and seems
+to be entirely in possession of the Asbenouees,<a name="page164" id="page164"></a><span class="pageno">[164]</span>
+nearly all these villages being peopled by the slaves
+of the Tuaricks. Some villages, indeed, contain
+nothing but slaves.</p>
+
+<p>Few animals were noticed to-day, but we saw
+four gazelles feeding together, and some hares.
+Not many birds appeared, on account of the fewness
+of the trees. Only a small portion of the ground is
+cultivated, but the camels and cattle are taken to be
+fed in the waste lands.</p>
+
+<p>We encamped at the village of En-Noor, called
+Tagelel. The capital of Damerghou is on the west
+(N.W.) from this, and is called Olleloa. The place
+is governed by Tuaricks.</p>
+
+<p>People say there are two or three hundred
+towns and villages in the country. Damerghou is
+not considered as part of Soudan, because it is possessed
+by the Tuaricks; but the country and climate
+are undoubtedly the same as all the neighbouring
+Soudanee territories. The weather was very warm
+and oppressive to-day. I fancied I suffered from
+the change of climate. I felt not quite well, and was
+much annoyed by the disobedience of the servants.
+Mohammed Tunisee has spoiled them all, and
+even Yusuf has done his share of mischief.</p>
+
+<p><i>8th.</i>&mdash;The weather was warm again this morning.
+I had a visit from the female slaves of the
+village of En-Noor, introduced by the wife of his
+highness. I gave them rings and sugar, and sent
+them off in a good humour. The country around
+looks exceedingly bare, almost free from trees.<a name="page165" id="page165"></a><span class="pageno">[165]</span>
+There is a little herbage for the camels. Ghaseb
+stubble, however, spreads all over, which looks well
+for the industry of the poor slaves. The karengia
+has disappeared.</p>
+
+<p>The news of the day goes that En-Noor will
+take me himself to Zinder. He probably wants to
+make acquaintance with the new governor of that
+place, as well as to see us safe there. The Tuaricks
+paid me a visit. I gave them a bit of sugar, showed
+them a gun, and got rid of them. A present of
+leban from a daughter of En-Noor induced me to
+give her a ring.</p>
+
+<p>Amankee says the population of this country is
+very various, but the Tuaricks of Asben are the
+masters. The villagers are not all slaves; there are
+many free people amongst them,&mdash;also Buza in
+numbers; Tuaricks who, having settled in Soudan,
+have forgotten their own language, speaking only
+Haussa. Many visitors trouble us, but we hope for
+a diminution to-morrow. The people of Damerghou
+are reported as enormous thieves, but we have
+seen as yet but little of their propensities this way,
+having, happily, lost nothing.</p>
+
+<p>I made a visit to the village, and was well
+received by the principal slave of En-Noor, who
+presented me with ghaseb-bread, cheese, and furd,
+or ghaseb-water. The ladies were singularly complaisant,
+and one offered me her friend; another
+was offered by a man. I believe these offers<a name="page166" id="page166"></a><span class="pageno">[166]</span>
+made in the way of compliments. In the East, it
+would not be prudent to take him at his word
+who should say, "Everything I have is yours."
+The huts of the village are very clean, and are
+inhabited entirely by slaves of En-Noor. These
+villages of Damerghou, at a distance, have the
+appearance of Chinese villages, such as I have
+seen drawn, with eaves cocked up like the rim of a
+French hat. The evening was given up to festivities,
+the slaves of the caravan uniting with those
+of the Tagelel. A regular procession brought the
+supper from the village to the people of the caravan,
+and then the music and dancing began. We
+had no supper sent. His highness is amazingly
+shabby in this respect. He fancies, perhaps, he
+could send us nothing better than what we have
+ourselves got, but he might try the compliment.
+We are, however, obliged to him for preventing
+others from levying contributions upon us in this
+new region. The Tuaricks here&mdash;all the strangers&mdash;are
+very civil; on account, I believe, of our
+being with the old man. He is of great negative
+utility.</p>
+
+<p>Overweg went to a lagoon, with little green isles
+in the midst of it, and shot some ducks. Ducks!
+This convinces us that we are now in the country of
+water. A wader was shot, and a fine plump bird
+something like a partridge, which Mohammed
+Tunisee calls <i>poule de Carthage</i>, but it is much
+<a name="page167" id="page167"></a><span class="pageno">[167]</span>
+smaller than those that I have eaten in Tunis.
+Many aquatic birds were flying or floating about
+the lake.</p>
+
+<p>The dancing in the evening was after this
+fashion. Two men beat drums, standing on one
+side of a circle marked. The dancers advanced
+towards them with shy and coyish gesture, and then
+swung round and round to the opposite side of the
+circle in a sort of time kept by the beating of the
+drum. They threw up their legs, but not in an indecent
+manner. It was a kind of simple waltzing.
+The men were not more violent in action than the
+women. Each sex danced separately, the women
+beginning first and then retiring. During the performance
+a song was kept up, a continually recurring
+rhyme. When it became dark the male
+and female slaves made love, and coquetted together.
+We, too, had our music; a strolling minstrel came
+to our tent by appointment to play on his guitar.
+He sang all our praises in very nice Haussa words,
+and indulged in the most extraordinary flattery I
+ever heard. I was Sultan, and had the riches of
+the world at my command. <i>Over</i> was the great
+doctor, and what he could not cure, God himself
+could not cure. <i>Bar</i> was the wise man, knowing
+all languages and all things. We tried not to be
+pleased, but in vain. Flattery is sweet, especially
+when enveloped in song.</p>
+
+<p>The weather was hot to-day, and sultry. I
+made many little presents, some to a fighi of<a name="page168" id="page168"></a><span class="pageno">[168]</span>
+Bornou, a Shoua Arab, who repeated the fatah to
+us. It is reported that a great deal of the salt goes
+with En-Noor to Zinder, from which we are separated
+by two days' journey, one of villages and
+another of forest.</p>
+
+<p><i>9th.</i>&mdash;The morning opened with wind, as usual,
+from the N.E. The weather was cooler than yesterday.
+I visited a group of cottages, or rather
+huts, and received a present of a korna for holding
+water. The thatch of these primitive habitations
+was of bou rekaba stalks. The korna is allowed
+to twine itself over the roofs, as the woodbine over
+our cottages, and looks very pretty. This group of
+cottages was inhabited by a single family,&mdash;alas! all
+slaves.</p>
+
+<p>According to Overweg, the reason En-Noor beat
+his wife in the terrible manner mentioned in this
+journal was, because she was accustomed to glide out
+of her chamber at night to witness the dances&mdash;the
+beastly dances of the north coast. I certainly was
+surprised to hear that she was present at these filthy
+exhibitions. "Have I not bought you?" his highness
+remonstrated with her. "Are you not my slave?"
+"No." she replied; "I am your wife, not your slave."
+So the lady continued, till she aggravated his highness
+into a great fury. Many Europeans, it must
+be confessed, would beat their wives for a less cause.</p>
+
+<p>It is now said, his highness goes first to Tesaoua.
+We start all to-morrow, at any rate. The bells which
+cover the horses are without clappers, but being<a name="page169" id="page169"></a><span class="pageno">[169]</span>
+close together they make a great jingling noise by
+dashing one against another. Suppers were brought
+this evening, but the singing and dancing were not
+continued. We had, however, at sunset, a visit from
+a Hazna dancer,&mdash;a perfect specimen of African
+buffoonery and jingling. He danced and sung with
+the wildest barbarity. He had two followers, to pick
+up the offerings of the people. They beat two
+pieces of stick together to the motion of his legs,
+hung with bells. The upper part of his body was
+naked, whilst the lower part was covered with a red
+and yellow apron. This man is said to drink beer,
+and is a professed pagan.</p>
+
+<p>I went to the wells, which are bored through the
+hard red clay, in the shape of small circular holes,
+of about fifty feet in depth. There is very little
+water at this season, but it is sufficient for the wants
+of the village when the salt-caravan is not here.</p>
+
+<p>The inhabitants of Damerghou consist of Kailouee
+Tuaricks&mdash;Bornouese runaways and slaves&mdash;Haussa
+people, free and slaves&mdash;Bousa, or the descendants
+of Tuaricks by slaves, and a few Fullanee.
+This is also the refuge of dethroned sultans, as well
+as runaway slaves. There is now here the Kailouee
+prince called Maaurgi, who exercised authority some
+years since in Aheer. Damerghou, indeed, appears
+to be common ground, where every one who pleases,
+and is strong enough, comes to establish himself.
+Many runaways, freemen from Bornou, who had
+committed some misdemeanour, being found in this<a name="page170" id="page170"></a><span class="pageno">[170]</span>
+country weak and unable to protect themselves, were
+reduced to slavery by a Tuarick prince. The slaves
+here answer to the serfs of Russia, with the exception
+that they may be taken away and sold in other
+countries.</p>
+
+<p><i>10th.</i>&mdash;The morning was cool because of the
+wind. They held a souk, or market, to-day near us.
+Provisions were very cheap. I was greatly amused
+to see the small quantities of sunbal which Mahadee
+had laid out for two zekkas of ghaseb. For myself I
+was much plagued by the women, who all admire
+my beard; not, certainly, my red nose, which is
+terribly scorched and peeled by the sun.</p>
+
+<p>Overweg visited the dethroned Sultan of Asoudee,
+who is living here in state, in the midst of his
+slaves. He holds a sort of court, and, contrary to
+the free customs of the Tuaricks, he permits slaves
+who approach him to prostrate themselves and throw
+dust on their heads. He is the uncle of the present
+Sultan of Asoudee, and is called Masouarji. In his
+fallen condition he gave Overweg a hospitable reception,
+and a present of dates, which was duly
+acknowledged.</p>
+
+<p>Yusuf, refusing to do some translation which I
+requested him, now forfeits all claims to my service.
+I told him, to-day, to go off to Kanou. Afterwards
+I arranged with him to go with me to Zinder, where,
+before the governor, I hope to get clear of him; for
+he is now of little use, and costs me more than all
+my servants together.</p>
+
+<p><a name="page171" id="page171"></a><span class="pageno">[171]</span></p>
+
+<p>Mohammed Tunisee has done him great harm;
+but, nevertheless, this chap continues to improve
+since the arrangement made, by which he becomes
+only the servant of Barth. The Germans, however,
+are still afraid of him. Yusuf is trying the same
+system with me, but will probably find that it will
+end in no good affair for himself. Mohammed Tunisee
+and Yusuf seem hitherto to have combined to spoil
+all our people. The liberated slaves from Tunis,
+brought up by me, have turned out the best and
+most faithful servants. I am much pleased with
+this.</p>
+
+<p>All the people of Damerghou are afflicted with
+ophthalmia, which is said to arise from the winds
+that prevail constantly over this open and unsheltered
+country. Some of the people pretend it is caused by
+drinking ghaseb-water, which appears absurd enough.
+The Moorish and other merchants attribute the
+greater part of their diseases to drinking water,&mdash;especially
+the fevers. How much truth there is in
+this assertion is not easy to be determined.</p>
+
+<p><i>11th.</i>&mdash;It has been agreed that I and my colleagues
+should here part for a time, Dr. Barth going
+to Kanou, and Dr. Overweg to Tesaoua and Maradee,
+whilst I proceed with En-Noor direct to Zinder.
+Dr. Barth promises to be in Kuka in two months;
+and Dr. Overweg says he will immediately correspond,
+that is from Tesaoua to Zinder. The latter
+has the more difficult journey before him; but even
+Dr. Barth's visit to Kanou may turn out a more<a name="page172" id="page172"></a><span class="pageno">[172]</span>
+serious business than perhaps he anticipates. We
+took leave one of the other with some emotion; for
+in Central Africa, those travellers who part and take
+divergent routes can scarcely count on all meeting
+together again.</p>
+
+<p>I also here parted with Amankee, my Haussa
+servant. He had behaved indifferently lately, but
+nevertheless, as he rendered us some service in the
+acquirement of the Haussa languages, and in other
+matters, I made him a present of four dollars for one
+extra time he had remained with us. He had
+been paid his wages at Mourzuk to go with us to
+Zinder, but then we expected to be only three months
+<i>en route</i>. In a moment, just as we were starting, he
+changed his mind, and would go to his home at
+once. This is his character,&mdash;levity and instability,&mdash;otherwise
+he is a good fellow enough. He is one
+of those Tuaricks who have settled in Haussa and
+forgotten their native tongue. I have been often
+obliged to use harsh language to him, to curb his
+levity. In parting with the servants of the Germans,
+I promised them each a present of six dollars if I
+heard a good report of them on their arrival at
+Kuka. This present is held out as an inducement
+because it is impossible to tell what may happen, as
+the Germans will nearly always be without any
+special escort. En-Noor, however, sends one of his
+slaves with Overweg to Maradee, and Barth goes
+with the salt-caravan to Kanou.</p>
+
+<p>I was much disappointed that we made but one<a name="page173" id="page173"></a><span class="pageno">[173]</span>
+hour this morning (south). To pass the time, I
+determined to visit some of the villages with which
+Damerghou is overscattered. I went first to a place
+called Fumta Bou Beker, twenty-five minutes from
+our encampment. Here I found the Sheikh, who
+had just returned from Kanou,&mdash;a considerable merchant.
+He received me with great hospitality, and
+gave me ghaseb-water, and some little pieces of
+meat, roasted, besides milk. I was accompanied by
+my stupid mahadee, who is, nevertheless, not a bad
+market-man. He purchased a large calabash of
+milk, and a peck of beans, for some small pieces of
+jaui, or benzoin. I then administered caustic to all
+the eyes of the village&mdash;at least sixty persons&mdash;including
+men, women, and children, with the Sheikh.
+Bad eyes were the only pressing complaints of the
+place.</p>
+
+<p>The villagers all spoke Bornouese. I believe
+this is the general language of Damerghou. There
+were only two or three Tuaricks present. Most of
+the people were free. The Sheikh, of course, had
+several slaves; amongst them a Yakobah slave, with
+straight lines cicatrised in curious patterns all over
+his body. The poor fellow seemed remarkably
+stupid, and I believe that many of these poor fellows
+brought from the more distant countries of Soudan
+become half idiots from continually regretting their
+beloved country. Alas! what can be done for
+Africa, when the greater part of its social system is
+constructed on slavery?</p>
+
+<p><a name="page174" id="page174"></a><span class="pageno">[174]</span></p>
+
+<p>Curious applications are made for medicines to
+cure various afflictions, moral and physical, amongst
+these people. A woman, to-day, begged for a medicine
+to prevent her children from dying. She had
+had many children, and all had died. Another woman
+applies for a medicine to prevent her husband from
+liking her rival, and to make him place his affection
+on her. A man demands medicine for good luck,
+and says he is always unfortunate.&mdash;Good people, I
+am not the physician to be called in in these cases.</p>
+
+<p>It is night, and En-Noor has not made his appearance.
+I am travelling with his wife and the
+other women; besides, there are a number of male
+slaves and some thirty camels of salt. Probably his
+highness will go another way to Zinder.</p>
+
+<p>I believe that Fumta Bou Beker is quite an independent
+village, and that all the great towns and
+villages here have an independent jurisdiction of
+their own. According to a slave of En-Noor, there
+are two sultans.</p>
+
+<p><i>12th.</i>&mdash;The morning was cool and windy. We
+started pretty early, and moved one hour through
+huts scattered amidst the ghaseb stubble. Then
+came three hours of undulating ground, uncultivated.
+Afterwards we fell in with huts again; and in two
+hours more reached the conical-shaped mount called
+Boban Birni. It consists of a sort of coarse sandstone
+and is in part overgrown with herbage.
+From the encampment to Mount Boban Birni was
+a distance of six hours S.W. It can be seen from<a name="page175" id="page175"></a><span class="pageno">[175]</span>
+afar off, though in reality not very lofty. We passed
+the mount for two hours through a forest of dwarf
+trees; the country still billowy, as it were. We
+advanced in all about eight hours, braced by a pleasant
+north-east wind. As we advanced we saw
+ostriches quietly feeding at no great distance, not
+heeding our caravan as it murmured by. Partridges
+rose as we advanced; together with guinea-hens,
+blackbirds, crows, black and white, and several
+long-tailed flutterers.</p>
+
+<p><i>13th.</i>&mdash;The morning was overcast, with cold
+wind. We started early, and made a long day of
+nine hours and a-half, and did not encamp until an
+hour after dark. Our course, as we ascended from
+Mount Boban Birni, was S. 3&deg; E. The country
+still undulated through the same forest, which in
+many places was quite dense, whilst in others the
+trees were scattered.</p>
+
+<p>When we reached the camping-ground a pleasant
+announcement was made. We were at length
+upon Bornou soil! I could hardly believe my ears.
+Oh, marvel, after all our dangers and misgivings!
+Thanks to Almighty God for deliverance from the
+hands of lawless tribes! I shall never forget the
+sensation with which I learned that I was at length
+really in Bornou, and that the robber Tuarick was
+in very truth definitively left behind.</p>
+
+<p>Our encampment was near a little village of
+twenty huts, called Daazzenai, placed under a rock
+of red stone. The country of Damerghou, in this<a name="page176" id="page176"></a><span class="pageno">[176]</span>
+direction, is separated from Bornou by about eleven
+hours of forest, or some thirty miles English&mdash;a
+sufficient distance to divide two countries, especially
+in Africa. The trees were larger to-day, and some
+of considerable altitude. Many pretty yellow blossoms,
+glowed on a species of shrub not unlike the
+laburnum.</p>
+
+<p>I observed scattered in the forest small mounds
+of mud, wasting away to the level of the ground;
+there were many of them; the birds perch thereon.</p>
+
+<p>We have seen a few nice families amongst the
+Tuaricks and their slaves, but these are mostly
+foreigners. There is the family of the Tripoline
+slave; her husband is a pleasant, quiet man, and one
+of En-Noor's household; she has a daughter and one
+cade-lamb. Then there is the Bornou fighi and his
+wife. These people are so affable, that they always
+have visitors near their little tent. They have also
+a cade-lamb. Their tent is a curiosity. It is just
+large enough for one of them to creep in&mdash;not for
+two. I suppose the fighi enters at night, and leaves
+his wife to sleep at the door.</p>
+
+<p>A detachment of the salt-caravan passed us to-day
+for Zinder. The whole force of the salt-caravan
+this year could not be more than fifteen hundred.
+Two divisions were with us of Kailouees,
+one in advance, each of five hundred, and the Kilgris'
+division of five hundred. So much for the
+boasted ten thousand camels which were gone this
+year to bring salt! From En-Noor one could not<a name="page177" id="page177"></a><span class="pageno">[177]</span>
+possibly get correct statistics, for, being a thorough
+Kailouee and a Tuarick, he magnifies everything
+connected with his people before strangers, and
+particularly to us. It was very amusing to see all
+the little children warming themselves in the evening
+at the fire, or feeding the flames with brushwood,
+which they easily collected.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p><a name="page178" id="page178"></a><span class="pageno">[178]</span></p>
+
+
+
+<h2><a name="chapter11" id="chapter11"></a>CHAPTER XI.</h2>
+
+<div class="summary">
+<p>March for Zinder&mdash;Enter the City&mdash;Reception&mdash;Delighted to escape
+from the Tuaricks&mdash;Letters from Kuka&mdash;Hospitable Treatment&mdash;Presents
+for the Sarkee and others&mdash;Visit the Shereef&mdash;His
+Duties&mdash;Audience of the Sarkee&mdash;Servility&mdash;Double-skulled Slave&mdash;Powder
+and Shot&mdash;Portrait of the Sultan&mdash;Commission from
+Kuka&mdash;European Clothes&mdash;Family of En-Noor&mdash;Tour of the
+Town&mdash;Scavengers&mdash;List of Sultans of Central Africa&mdash;Ancient
+Haussa&mdash;The Market&mdash;Money&mdash;Conversation with the Shereef&mdash;The
+Sultan at Home&mdash;Mixed Race of Zinder&mdash;Statistics&mdash;Personages
+of the Court.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<p><i>Jan. 14th.</i>&mdash;We started early, in hopes to reach
+Zinder in the course of the morning. Our course of
+five hours was S. 10&deg; E. from the encampment. The
+route from En-Noor's palace in Damerghou is two
+good days and a-half. After two hours and a-half
+we came to huts in a valley, and a village of thirty
+or forty houses, called Boban Tabki. In three
+quarters of an hour there were villages again. I
+was pleased to see the corn-stacks or field-granaries
+standing in the open country, apart from all houses
+or habitations, illustrating the security of property in
+Zinder and its neighbouring districts. The country
+all around is pleasant, nicely undulating with ridges
+<a name="page179" id="page179"></a><span class="pageno">[179]</span>
+of green hills&mdash;the horizon bounded on every side
+with rounded green hills.</p>
+
+<p>We sighted Zinder after four hours' march; and
+entered the town within another hour. I was somewhat
+impatient to get rid of the Tuaricks, and
+place myself in the hands of the Bornou authorities;
+so I rode off myself to the town, leaving the
+suburbs, where the family of En-Noor have their
+residence, deaf to all their cries to stop. I found a
+friendly Kailouee, who conducted me straight to the
+house of the governor. His servants took me to
+the Shereef, and the Shereef sent me to Sa&iuml;d, my
+servant, where I found a house and everything prepared
+for my reception; and here, also, I found a
+slave sent from Bornou by the Sheikh, to conduct
+me to Kuka: so all things wore a happy aspect
+after so many miseries and uncertainties.</p>
+
+<p>I was delighted with the appearance of Zinder,
+its picturesque situation, and its unexpected size.
+It is much larger than I was led to expect. As
+soon as I was domiciled I received visits from
+several merchants of Mourzuk, besides the authorities
+of the town. All the sons of the Sultan of the
+place came to salute me; I gave them each a little
+sugar, and off they went highly pleased. Provisions
+now poured in at such a rate, that after the starvation
+of the desert I became nauseated at their
+sight. These were sent by the Sultan and the
+Shereef.</p>
+
+<p>Thankful satisfaction for my deliverance from<a name="page180" id="page180"></a><span class="pageno">[180]</span>
+the wild tribes, the most hostile to Christians of all
+this part of Africa, and fond anticipations of what I
+may do in Bornou; the good news I already heard,
+and the anxiety of the Sheikh for our safety, with
+my comparatively robust health;&mdash;thoughts of all
+these things prevented me from sleeping during
+the night.</p>
+
+<p>I learnt from Sa&iuml;d, servant of Haj Beshir, that
+letters had arrived from Mourzuk for us in Kuka,
+and one was addressed to the Sheikh, which had
+determined him to bring us all at once to Kuka,
+and prevent us going first to Soudan. Upon this
+advice, the Sultan of this place had sent four persons
+to Tesaoua, to bring my colleagues from
+that place. But whether they will come on the
+demand of these persons is very questionable. I
+learned that the Sfaxee, as I expected, was laid up
+with fever in Kanou, for he is emphatically a man
+of fever; and, besides, he has no control over himself,
+but gorges himself with food when an opportunity
+presents itself; and this, after the privations
+of the desert, is sure to bring on disease. Yusuf
+Moknee came to me this evening, to know what was
+to be done on the next morning. He finds it necessary
+to alter his conduct, as he sees now that I
+could do without him. I determined to go on with
+him for the present. I do not wish to leave him
+here with En-Noor, for he may do us harm with
+that subtle Kailouee prince. I must take him away
+from the Tuaricks altogether.</p>
+
+<p><a name="page181" id="page181"></a><span class="pageno">[181]</span></p>
+
+<p>I found all the Mourzuk people very friendly&mdash;everybody
+friendly; the world seemed turned upside
+down after our treatment from the Tuaricks.
+I began to make little presents, for I am determined
+our friends shall have a portion of her Majesty's
+goods as well as our enemies; which latter, indeed,
+took them away from us by force. I must not forget
+to remark, that when I entered Zinder there
+was not a single person bold enough to whisper the
+name <i>Kafer!</i> so immense is the difference between
+this Bornou country and the Tuarick territories.</p>
+
+<p><i>15th.</i>&mdash;I rose early, having slept little. The
+weather was cool, the thermometer at sunrise being
+at 59&deg;. I began to prepare our presents for the Sultan
+and the Shereef. After much debating as to
+quantity, it was determined to keep all the best
+things for Kuka, and give small presents here. In
+this respect I must praise Yusuf and his friends
+amongst the Mourzuk people.</p>
+
+<p>I prepared a present for Sarkee Ibrahim, sultan
+of Zinder, consisting of a piece of muslin for turban,
+a red turban, three heads of sugar, two glass drinking-cups,
+painted, a cup and saucer for coffee, a
+few rings in imitation of gold, cloves, two handkerchiefs
+(cotton), powder and shot, fifty bullets, two
+or three small looking-glasses. The present for the
+Shereef consisted of a carpet (hearth-rug), used
+here for kneeling upon in performing prayers,
+three white sugar-loaves, cloves, handkerchief (cotton),
+powder and shot, with some other trifles. The<a name="page182" id="page182"></a><span class="pageno">[182]</span>
+present for Sa&iuml;d, sent by Haj Beshir from Kuka,
+consisted of a cloth caftan (coarse), a cotton handkerchief,
+and a piece of cotton stuff to make a pillow.</p>
+
+<p>I am happy to add, that all were content and
+satisfied; but we made them understand&mdash;indeed,
+they knew it before we arrived&mdash;that the Tuaricks
+had taken away nearly all my property.</p>
+
+<p>I must add the present of the Shereef Saghir
+(little Shereef), who acts as interpreter for the Sultan:
+a glass painted drinking-cup, a handkerchief
+(cotton), a little sugar, jani, senbal, a few cloves,
+and two or three rings; with which he was well
+satisfied.</p>
+
+<p>Before noon I waited on the Shereef to deliver
+my present. I was much struck with this man's
+appearance. He was quite an European&mdash;white as
+myself. His countenance seemed full of thought
+and meaning. He is a native of Fez, and has lived
+long in Algiers. He has served in the war against
+the French under Abd-el-Kader, and has only
+been two years in Bornou and in Kuka, and once in
+Zinder. He is here as the <i>nather</i>, "looker-on;" one
+who watches over the interests of the country, particularly
+in its foreign relations. To speak plainly,
+he is a spy of the Sheikh of Bornou over the authorities
+of Zinder, including the Governor. All the
+people say, "Without the Shereef nothing can be
+done in Zinder;" and well they may, considering
+that he is in the entire confidence of the Sheikh.
+The Shereef is also the agent of all foreigners, and
+<a name="page183" id="page183"></a><span class="pageno">[183]</span>
+our goods were directed to his care from Tintalous&mdash;that
+is, those things which we sent up before us.
+The Sultans of Zinder are always a little disaffected;
+and to check them, and watch their conduct, the
+Shereef has been sent here. This personage is also
+universally respected for his learning, piety, and
+almsgiving; so that, apparently, the Sheikh could
+not have intrusted his interests to a more able man.
+The Shereef knows well the use of arms, for it is
+reported here in Zinder that he has killed <i>forty
+thousand</i> Frenchmen with his own hands! The
+people actually believe this most marvellous report!</p>
+
+<p>After leaving the Shereef we went to salute the
+Sultan Ibrahim, and deliver to his highness our
+present. We were conducted into a species of
+fort, built of clay, with walls exceedingly thick.
+Here in a sort of anteroom, or open skifa, or hall,
+we found some fifty soldiers of the Sultan, unarmed
+and bare-headed, with one or two governors of neighbouring
+places, all squatted upon the ground. I
+was requested to squat down amongst them, which
+I did near a raised mud-bench. There was little
+light, the place being built to shut out the glare and
+heat of the sun. Here I waited a quarter of an
+hour, till the Sultan was announced by the cries of
+the soldiers, slaves, and domestic officers. His
+highness took his seat upon the mud-bench; and
+whilst so doing his attendants all squatted down,
+many of them taking up the dust from the ground
+and throwing it over their bare heads, and crying,
+<a name="page184" id="page184"></a><span class="pageno">[184]</span>
+"Long live the Sultan! God bless him!" This is
+the first occasion on which I have witnessed this
+degrading custom, this abject worship of the representative
+of power. The scene was perfectly African
+and negro.</p>
+
+<p>I was squatted amidst a number of courtiers,
+one of whom had a sort of double skull, another
+smaller skull raised above the larger one,&mdash;a protuberance
+which came from an accident in infancy.
+This double-skulled man was the chief of the domestics.</p>
+
+<p>The Sultan was in a merry humour, and smilingly
+asked after my health. We then read our
+letters of recommendation, which pleased him. He
+observed that the route <i>vi&acirc;</i> Aheer was good. "How
+good," asked Yusuf, "when we are arrived here
+naked, and stripped of everything?" At which his
+highness burst out, laughing, with all the people.
+There was now observed a little bustle behind,
+and his highness called out "Silence!" like a
+sheriff in a court of law. I begged the interpreter
+to tell the Sultan that our present was
+small, for we had been stripped by the Tuaricks.
+This he whispered in his ear; after which I slipped
+a packet of powder and shot into the hands of one
+of the principal courtiers, telling him it was for the
+Sultan, and he carried it off. I did not place it
+with the other presents, because the servant of Haj
+Bashaw, sent from Kuka, forbad my giving his
+highness any powder and shot, alleging, that this
+<a name="page185" id="page185"></a><span class="pageno">[185]</span>
+Sultan was always disaffected, and the Sheikh
+would disapprove of my giving him munitions of
+war. But I was determined to give fifty bullets
+and two dozen charges of powder, believing that
+he could do the Sheikh little harm, whilst it would
+make him my personal friend. No person knew
+what I gave the Governor.</p>
+
+<p>The powder and shot being delivered, I took
+leave of his highness, raising my cap and shaking
+hands with him. At this doffing off the cap all the
+people were highly gratified, thinking great respect
+was thereby shown to their prince.</p>
+
+<p>Ibrahim is a negro, a native of Zinder, a man of
+fifty years of age, with a countenance sparkling with
+good humour, and I believe I may add, intelligence.
+He has been Sultan here some thirty years, so that
+he must be a man of character. This day he received
+a renewal of his commission from Kuka, a
+ceremony that takes place every year; and so he
+was in a happy humour. There was also a sort of
+feast at the palace, and his highness rode out with a
+detachment of cavalry. The persons who brought
+our camels from Kuka also brought the renewed
+commission, or a man, from the Sheikh. Haj Beshir
+has sent us ten camels, to bring the boat and our
+baggage, in the event of our camels being stolen,
+or having become weak with the journey from
+Mourzuk. I have, therefore, only to sell my
+camels and turn them into ready money, which I
+much need, and then start.</p>
+
+<p><a name="page186" id="page186"></a><span class="pageno">[186]</span></p>
+
+<p>We afterwards called again on the Shereef, and
+had a laugh about the man with two skulls. I told
+the Shereef "two heads were perhaps better than
+one," at which they all burst out laughing. The
+Shereef was surrounded by foreign merchants, all
+chatting in good humour. These Moors were
+friendly to me. To-day I dressed in my European
+clothes; first, because unless you have very good
+clothes, such as worn by the people of the country,
+you cut a very bad figure; and secondly, and principally,
+to show the Kailouees, and other strangers,
+that I was now in a friendly place, and that no one
+dare say anything to me in the way of insult. In
+fact, as yesterday, there is not even a whisper of the
+word <i>Kafer</i>. His highness and all the people admired
+my European gear. I told them that now
+the Turks dressed in the same manner, or nearly
+so; at which they were greatly surprised. I had on
+a black surtout, tight trousers, and varnished boots,
+gloves, neckerchief, waistcoat; everything European
+but the hat, wearing instead of this the fez cap
+or shasheeah.</p>
+
+<p>In the evening I paid a visit to the family of
+En-Noor, who were greatly astonished at my transfiguration
+from a bad Moorish dress into an European
+suit. They were much disconcerted at this
+change, and my happy humour. Madame En-Noor
+rated me for running away from them yesterday.
+I told them I wished to get to my friends of
+Bornou as quickly as possible. My interpreter also
+<a name="page187" id="page187"></a><span class="pageno">[187]</span>
+informed them that the Sheikh had sent camels,
+and enlarged on the anxiety of everybody here
+for our safety. They were all displeased at this
+news, as a reflection upon them and the conduct
+of the Tuaricks. They now beheld quite a change
+in everything. I was anxious to mark this change
+in our circumstances, that they might reflect how
+they treated Europeans again when fallen into their
+hands. At the same time I showed a desire not to
+hurt their feelings, wishing to be on friendly terms
+with them whilst here.</p>
+
+<p>The Kailouees are all excessively quiet now.
+All feel the power of the Sheikh, and are almost as
+submissive as if they were at Mourzuk. However,
+the family of En-Noor still keep begging. But I
+believe now I must finish with them. The Sultan
+is said by his servants to have gone to Tesaoua. I
+am extremely glad I came without him to this
+place. Perhaps he also was ashamed to bring me.
+From Tesaoua he will be here after some days.
+People call him, as in Aheer, An-Nour, and not
+En-Noor. The prince of Zinder asked, where is
+An-Nour? The people are still at work preparing
+this chieftain's apartments, consisting of a circular
+wall of matting, enclosing a number of huts; there
+is a mud-house in the middle, but it is now fallen
+into ruins.</p>
+
+<p>I made a tour of the town, and was still more
+pleased than before with its size. It is said to contain
+20,000 inhabitants. There are many divisions,<a name="page188" id="page188"></a><span class="pageno">[188]</span>
+separated by blocks of granite, and small hills. We
+visited the Ka&iuml;d of a district. He immediately
+brought us ghaseb-water and milk. Really the
+world seems turned upside down when the conduct
+of the people here is compared with the hospitality
+which we received from En-Noor, although he personally
+paid us some attentions not vouchsafed by
+others. We came through the souk, where were
+the sticks of meat roasting, and lots of people. No
+one whispered <i>Kafer</i>! The Shereef sent me a horse
+to ride on when I go out, and recommends me to
+do so.</p>
+
+<p>The scavengers of Zinder are a multitudinous
+host of a small species of filthy-looking vultures,
+brown and black in colour: they are exceedingly
+tame, for the people never touch them, and they
+walk about the streets tamer than the fowls. I
+believe the same species of vulture are also the
+scavengers of Kanou. At Zinder they take their
+evening exercise by flying in circles over the city,
+a hundred or two together. There are a few white
+ones amongst the flock. The Sultan sent for a
+piece of camphor this morning. I gave him some,
+with a silver French coin and a new English
+farthing.</p>
+
+<p>The news is, that I must stay here ten days, to
+oblige the slaves who have been sent from Kuka
+to carry the baggage. We are also to stay at
+Minyo a few days, <i>en route</i> four days from this.</p>
+
+<p>I spent the evening gleaning information of the<a name="page189" id="page189"></a><span class="pageno">[189]</span>
+interior. There is now no war in any part of
+Central Africa, i.e. no great wars. Probably the
+princes of Africa, like those of Europe, find that war
+will not pay. At any rate, all is peace for the
+present. This will facilitate our progress. I had
+a visit from the son of the Kadi of Kuka, an intelligent
+young man, who has promised to come to-morrow
+to write the routes from Zinder to his native
+place.</p>
+
+<p>I have obtained a list of the names of the principal
+sultans in this part of Africa:</p>
+
+<ol>
+<li>Bornou&mdash;The Sheikh Omer, the son of the
+sheikh who reigned in the time of the first expedition.
+He has now reigned fourteen years. He
+has a good character.</li>
+<li>Sakkatou&mdash;Sultan of the Fellatahs, Ali. He
+is not so great as his father Bello, celebrated in the
+time of the first expedition.</li>
+<li>Asben, or Aheer&mdash;Abd-el-Kader.</li>
+<li>Maradee&mdash;Binono.</li>
+<li>Gouber&mdash;Aliou (Ali).</li>
+<li>Niffee&mdash;Khaleelou. The name of the capital
+is Gondu. The Sultan is a Fullan, but independent
+of Sakkatou, as are many other Fullan
+princes.</li>
+<li>Adamaua&mdash;Lauel. He is called by the Fullans
+Madubbu-Adamaua, i.e. Sultan or Kakam of
+Adamowa. He is a Fullan, but the people whom
+he governs are all Kohlans, or negroes.<a name="page190" id="page190"></a><span class="pageno">[190]</span></li>
+<li>Yakobah&mdash;Ibrahim. His father was called
+Yakobah, and the country has probably derived its
+recent name of the late sultan; the capital is called
+Baushi. The rulers are Fellatahs.</li>
+<li>Kanou&mdash;Osman Bel-Ibrahim.</li>
+<li>Kashna&mdash;Mohammed-Bello.</li>
+<li>Zaria&mdash;Mahommed Sani.</li>
+<li>Kataguni&mdash;Abd-er-Rahman.</li>
+<li>Kadaija&mdash;Ahmadou.</li>
+<li>Timbuctoo&mdash;Mohammed Lebbu, a Fellatah.</li>
+<li>Jinnee&mdash;</li>
+<li>Begharmi&mdash;Burkmanda.</li>
+<li>Mandara&mdash;</li>
+<li>Lagun&mdash;</li>
+<li>Zinder&mdash;Ibrahim.</li>
+</ol>
+
+<p>The alliances and enmities, the wars and the
+intrigues of all these princes, will one day, perhaps,
+form materials for some semi-mythological history,
+when civilisation has removed its camp to
+these intertropical regions. Regular annals, however,
+there never can be. No record seems to be
+kept, except in the unfaithful memories of the natives;
+and even if the contrary were the case, posterity
+would willingly consign to oblivion all but
+the salient points of this period of barbarism and
+slave-hunting.</p>
+
+<p>Daura is a city of great antiquity, but I have
+never seen it on the maps. It is two days from
+Zinder on the route to Kanou, and has now about<a name="page191" id="page191"></a><span class="pageno">[191]</span>
+the same number of inhabitants as Zinder, or from
+20,000 to 25,000.</p>
+
+<p>Ancient Haussa, according to the Monshee, consisted
+of seven cities, viz.</p>
+
+<ol>
+<li>Kanou.</li>
+<li>Kashna. This city is now about three times the size of Zinder.</li>
+<li>Daura.</li>
+<li>Zaria.</li>
+<li>Gouber.</li>
+<li>Maradee.</li>
+<li>Zanbara. This city is now about the size of
+Kashna. It lies beyond Gouber, not far from
+Sakkatou.</li>
+</ol>
+
+<p>I went to see the souk. There are two market-days
+in Zinder: the great souk on Thursday, and
+the little one on Friday, the days following one
+another. I rapidly passed through it; it was full
+of people and merchandise; all things in abundance;
+no one called after me, but I did not like to
+stay long to expose myself. The principal provisions
+and domestic animals offered for sale are
+cattle (oxen), sheep, camels, asses, goats, beef,
+mutton, samen, honey, ghaseb, ghafouley, a little
+wheat, dried fish (rather stinking, because no salt is
+used in drying), kibabs or roasted pieces of meat,
+beans, dankali or sweet potatoes; which last are
+brought from Kanou, as also is the fish, &amp;c. I purchased
+three sweet potatoes for a fifth of a penny.
+There was, besides, also a good quantity of merchandise
+<a name="page192" id="page192"></a><span class="pageno">[192]</span>
+of every sort, and slaves in numbers.
+Honey also is brought from Kanou to this souk.
+In Kanou, twelve pounds and a-half are sold for
+four thousand wad&acirc;s, or four-fifths of a dollar. In
+Zinder, the same quantity sells for about double the
+price. They adulterate here and send it to Aheer.</p>
+
+<p>In the evening I went with the Shereef to his
+garden. He has brought with him the tastes of the
+people of Morocco for gardens, and has introduced
+into Zinder tomatas from Kuka. His beds contain
+onions, peppers, cucumbers, wheat, lemons,
+date-palms, and some other small things. There
+is a little wheat also, but merely as an ornament.
+The date-palms bear twice a-year, but the dates do
+not dry in this country. There is a part of Soudan
+where the dates are said to become dry as those of
+Fezzan. The lemons are as good as those on the
+north coast, but they are found only in Soudan.
+But two or three trees have been seen in Bornou.
+Onions are in abundance, and it is said that those
+people who eat onions do not catch the fevers of
+Soudan. The Shereef considers the horses of this
+country to have little strength&mdash;not to be compared
+with those of the north coast. He has sent me one
+to ride round the environs. We conversed upon
+Algerian affairs. The Shereef said nothing against
+the French in general; he only complained of the
+non-fulfilment of the treaty of capitulation with
+Abd-el-Kader and his fellow-prisoners. I told
+him Bou M&acirc;za was liberated, which news surprised<a name="page193"
+id="page193"></a><span class="pageno">[193]</span>
+him. He said Bou M&acirc;za was a fool, and had no
+followers. All the conversation of the Shereef was
+marked with good sense. He had been in Malta,
+and resided there two months. His native place
+is two days' journey from Tangiers. He is well
+acquainted with Christians. He speaks with a
+strong Mogarbi accent. As to this country and
+the Tuaricks, he observed the Sheikh was determined
+to keep them down, and was not afraid of
+them.</p>
+
+<p>The Shereef possesses a fair amount of women&mdash;some
+twenty, but only one son. I sent this
+evening presents of rings to the ladies.</p>
+
+<p>Yusuf paid a visit to the Sultan this morning,
+to carry him a present on his part. He entered the
+interior of the building, and found it full of dirt,
+and bare of every species of furniture. The Sultan
+himself had only upon him a Soudan tobe and a
+white cap. All the rest of his people were bare-headed,
+and were covered with dirty tobes. This
+contempt of dress arises from the fact that the
+prince was a slave of the ancient Sultans of Bornou.
+There are, besides, other sultans <i>en route</i> to Kuka,
+of the same stamp; but he of Minyo is said to dress
+excessively, changing his costume five times a-day.
+We are to remain some days in Minyo, of which I
+am glad, because there we shall see the Bornouese
+population, in a purer state. Here it is mixed
+somewhat with the Kailouees and other tribes.
+At any rate, the manners of the people are somewhat
+<a name="page194" id="page194"></a><span class="pageno">[194]</span>
+influenced by the great number of foreigners.
+En-Noor and Lousou have both houses in Zinder,
+which the people dignify by the name of <i>belad</i> or
+"villages," but which are simply enclosures of a few
+huts.</p>
+
+<p>I have been endeavouring to collect materials
+for the statistics of Zinder. The following note
+exhibits a partial result:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>Various persons give the population of Zinder
+at 25,000 or 30,000 souls. Let us take the number
+at 20,000.</p>
+
+<p>The military force consists of cavalry and foot&mdash;two
+thousand cavalry having swords, spears, and
+shields; and eight or nine thousand bowmen, having
+only bows and arrows. This force is commanded
+by one Shroma Dan Magram, who receives the
+enormous pay of half the land taxes of some fifty
+towns and villages in the circle of the province of
+Zinder. The officers of the Sultan of Zinder are
+mostly slaves.</p>
+
+<p>The principal personages are Shroma Dan
+Magram; the Kady, Tahir; the Bash Kateb, or
+Secretary, Dang Gambara; the chief of the Treasury,
+Nanomi; of the Custom-house, Fokana. There
+are four officers of the Treasury, and four of the
+Custom-house; and, moreover, four Viziers, the
+principal of whom is Mustapha Gadalina.</p>
+
+<p>The Arabs do not pay any custom duties, but
+all the blacks and the Kailouees and Fullans pay as
+follows:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p><a name="page195" id="page195"></a><span class="pageno">[195]</span></p>
+
+<table summary="custom duties">
+<tr><td>A camel,</td><td>laden</td><td>or</td><td>unladen</td><td></td>
+<td align="right">5000</td><td align="center">wad&acirc;s.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>An ass</td><td align="center">"</td><td></td>
+<td align="center">"</td><td></td><td align="right">100</td><td align="center">"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>An ox</td><td align="center">"</td><td></td>
+<td align="center">"</td><td></td><td align="right">100</td><td align="center">"</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>There is no duty on goods, and, whether the
+camels are laden with rich burnouses or salt, it is
+all the same thing.</p>
+
+<p>Camels are very cheap in this country, and
+the best of all will not fetch more than 40,000
+wad&acirc;s, or about sixteen Spanish dollars. The
+Shereef is to purchase ours, four of them for 120,000
+wad&acirc;s; they cost about three times the sum in
+Mourzuk. Horses are not quite so cheap; the best
+will fetch 100,000 wad&acirc;s.<a name="anchor14" id="anchor14"></a><a href="#footnote14"
+class="fnanchor">[14]</a> The exchange here is the
+same as in Kanou; 2500 wad&acirc;s is the value of the
+large dollar, or douro ghaleet, as it is called amongst
+the Moorish and Arab merchants.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="footnote14" id="footnote14"></a><a href="#anchor14">[14]</a> See p. 216.</p>
+</div>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p><a name="page196" id="page196"></a><span class="pageno">[196]</span></p>
+
+
+
+<h2><a name="chapter12" id="chapter12"></a>CHAPTER XII.</h2>
+
+<div class="summary">
+<p>Presents from Officials&mdash;Mode of treating Camels&mdash;Prices&mdash;Cowrie
+Money&mdash;Shereef Interpreter&mdash;Visits&mdash;Harem&mdash;Houses&mdash;Grand
+Vizier&mdash;Picturesque Dances&mdash;Tuaricks at Zinder&mdash;Kohlans and
+Fullans&mdash;Province of Zinder&mdash;Account of its Rebellions&mdash;Trees&mdash;Details
+on the Slave-trade&mdash;Prices&mdash;Mode of obtaining
+Slaves&mdash;Abject Respect of the Sultan&mdash;Visits&mdash;Interview with
+the Sarkee&mdash;The Presence&mdash;Curious Mode of administering
+Justice&mdash;Barbarous Punishments&mdash;Hy&aelig;nas&mdash;Gurasu&mdash;Fighis&mdash;Place
+of Execution&mdash;Tree of Death&mdash;Hy&aelig;na Dens&mdash;Dancing.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><i>Jan. 17th.</i>&mdash;The Sultan this morning sent me an ox.
+I made him my personal friend by giving him the
+powder and shot, in spite of the servant of Haj
+Beshir from Kuka. The Shereef is excessively
+generous; whether at his own cost or that of Kuka I
+do not know. I suppose the latter, as he had orders
+from head-quarters to supply us with everything.
+He sends rice, honey, fowls, eggs, milk, tomatas,
+and all things in abundance. I repeat, for the
+third time, that the world is turned upside down,
+so far as the supply of provisions and hospitality is
+concerned. It is true that the Tuaricks are desperately
+poor, and their generosity must always be
+very limited.</p>
+
+<p><a name="page197" id="page197"></a><span class="pageno">[197]</span></p>
+
+<p>Our maharees of the salt-caravan went very
+well, and ate little on the road, so that much time
+was saved in this way. The Tuarick camels are
+far better travellers than the Arab, which sometimes
+are allowed to eat all day long. The females
+and the young ones are the most troublesome. I
+was much amused to see one of the Kailouee camel-drivers
+overcome the obstinacy of a young camel.
+The fellow actually bit the loose skin which hung
+over the muzzle of the rebel, and in this manner
+dragged it to the string, and there tied it to the
+rest. All the male camels are gelded, whilst many
+breeding maharees carry no weights, but follow
+their burdened kind with their foals.</p>
+
+<p>To-day, for the first time, I received cowrie
+money, viz. four cases, made of matting, each containing
+30,000. This was the price of four of my
+camels. The Gharian brute I sold to one of the
+servants for 8000. It is quite a labour to count
+this money, but I perceive that some persons are
+exceedingly expert at it, and count 5000 in a few
+minutes. There would appear to be always some
+mistakes made; one case was found to have ninety-eight
+short. This certainly is not much out of 30,000,
+and when a dozen people were counting. The
+small and large shells are all alike, and of the same
+value. But I shall be able to say more of this
+money afterwards. Thirty thousand of these shells
+are many pounds in weight, and not very conveniently
+carried about.</p>
+
+<p><a name="page198" id="page198"></a><span class="pageno">[198]</span></p>
+
+<p>I visited some of the principal personages this
+afternoon, with the interpreter of the Sultan. This
+interpreter is a Shereef, and has been a sailor, in
+which capacity he has seen Malta, and many European
+countries. He is now married to a daughter
+of the Sultan of Zinder, and is established here in
+the confidence of his father-in-law. It appears,
+then, that even common Moorish sailors make their
+way in these black countries.</p>
+
+<p>The first person we visited was one of the viziers,
+called Mayaha, a native of Damagram, a place one
+day east, from whence the greater part of the
+population of Zinder is drawn. This personage
+was sufficiently polite. He gave me permission to
+see the interior of his house, and his harem. The
+harem was full of fine, handsome Haussa slaves,
+attending on his four wives; they were all polished,
+and apparently clean, lying about on the floors of
+the huts, and in the court-yards, in the most
+strenuous idleness&mdash;one cleaning, polishing, and
+decorating another. One was bolder than the rest,
+and beckoned me to come to her.</p>
+
+<p>This house of this vizier contained many huts of
+bee-hive shape; one or two were built of sun-dried
+earth, but all were small. Few carpets, or even
+mats, were seen: these people of Zinder are most
+dearly fond of squatting on the naked dust.</p>
+
+<p>Afterwards I visited the Grand Vizier, or Mustapha
+Gadalina (a title). This personage, a man
+of great age, was polite, but did not permit me to
+<a name="page199" id="page199"></a><span class="pageno">[199]</span>
+enter the interior of his house. We then went to
+see the Commander-in-chief&mdash;a funny fellow. He
+was very civil to us, and to all, joking with his
+soldiers, amidst whom he was squatting. These
+Zinder troops have no arms in their undress, and
+only wear a loose tobe, with bare heads. The
+General told us he would visit us in the morning.</p>
+
+<p>After a climb to the summit of one of the
+granite rocks of Zinder to have a view of the town,
+I went to see and hear the drummers hammering
+on their kangas. There were three of them, surrounded
+by a group of Zinder maidens. One fellow
+had two long drums, very narrow, on which he
+laboured with all his might. The maidens approached
+the musicians by twos, dancing or stepping
+forward, and retreating with great apparent
+modesty. Whilst I was looking at a couple, one of
+them ran up to me, and struck me lightly with her
+hand. For this attention I was obliged to give her
+a present of gour-nuts, which are equally current
+with the cowries on such occasions. The drum is
+the national music of the people of Zinder, and they
+hammer away at it from morning to night. They
+say that in the palace it never ceases all day, beginning
+at dawn. Perhaps it may be esteemed useful
+in supplying the place of silly conversation.</p>
+
+<p>Very few Tuaricks are to be seen in the streets
+of this city. They rarely show themselves, except on
+market-days, when they come from their houses in
+the suburbs. Little cordiality exists between them
+<a name="page200" id="page200"></a><span class="pageno">[200]</span>
+and the Binder people. They owe one another,
+like all neighbouring people, many grudges. I
+jocularly told the commander-in-chief to kill all the
+Tuaricks. He na&iuml;vely replied, "I would, but when
+I attack them they all run away!" I am informed
+by the Moors here the Tuaricks have a wholesome
+dread of the Sheikh, and are on bad terms with the
+Fullans. They are, however, for the most part,
+friendly with the ancient Kohlans, the people of
+Maradee and Gouber. This accounts for the fact
+that En-Noor always spoke in the most amiable
+way of these remaining kingdoms of Soudan paganism.
+The town of Zinder is inhabited chiefly by
+the blacks of the Bornouese province of Damagram,
+who, though speaking the same language, are not
+considered Bornouese. In fact, properly speaking,
+it is situated in that province. The Zinder folks are
+easily distinguished from the natives of Kuka, and
+those more eastern provinces, by a lighter complexion
+and the smaller breadth of their nostrils.</p>
+
+<p>Zinder has always enjoyed much liberty as a
+province, though it has fallen successively under
+the influence of Bornou and Haussa princes. Anciently
+it was ruled by the former; then it lapsed
+to the Haussa princes and the Fullans, and finally it
+was again recovered by Bornou. The present prince,
+Ibrahim, has been sultan twenty-five years. Under
+his rule a rebellion took place against the Sheikh,
+who removed him, made him prisoner, and promoted
+his brother to the governorship of the province.<a name="page201" id="page201"></a><span class="pageno">[201]</span>
+But this new prince also rebelled; upon which
+the Sheikh came with a large force a year ago, and
+restored the former governor, placing, however,
+several persons here as a check on his authority.
+I have already mentioned the influence of the
+Shereef of Morocco. But no people in the world
+detest central government so much as the Africans,
+and these rebellions occur yearly and monthly.</p>
+
+<p>The facts which have been mentioned to me
+connected with the last rebellion of Zinder, and its
+reduction by the Sheikh of Bornou, are interesting,
+as illustrative of the present condition of these out-of-the-way
+countries. The re-conquest proved to
+be no easy matter, and required three months' siege,
+and sixty thousand men, commanded by the Sheikh's
+best officers and the sultans of the neighbouring
+provinces. When the revolted people had notice of
+the approach of this force, they threw up a wall of
+earth round the city in the brief space of three days
+only. Even Africans can be energetic when compelled
+by necessity. The siege lasted three months,
+and many people were killed on either side.</p>
+
+<p>Before hostilities commenced the Sheikh sent
+for the brother of the deposed prince, whom he had
+placed in power at Zinder; but the answer was
+refusal. "If you want money," said the rebel
+chieftain, "here it is; if you want slaves, here
+they are;&mdash;but I will not come to Kuka." Ibrahim,
+the former and present sultan, had meanwhile gone
+to the capital, and covered himself with dust in the
+<a name="page202" id="page202"></a><span class="pageno">[202]</span>
+presence of the Sheikh, and obtained his pardon
+and the promise of his restoration to power. His
+brother knew this well, and, of course, would not go
+to the capital. It is surprising, however, that the
+rebellion could hold out so long against so large a
+force; the people of Zinder must be framed for war.
+The Tuaricks during the struggle stood by and
+looked on. The displaced brother is now at Kuka,
+having there obtained the pardon of the Sheikh.
+He fled to the Tuaricks after the capture of the
+town.</p>
+
+<p>There are several pretty shady trees scattered
+through the town of Zinder, planted mostly in the
+gardens of the grandees. The names of three of
+these are, in Bornouese, rimi, jaja, and ilbug.</p>
+
+<p>I have obtained some information on the slave-trade,
+which I here give in its crude shape. Slaves
+are classed as follows:&mdash;</p>
+
+<h5><span class="smcap">Males.</span></h5>
+
+<table summary="classes of slaves">
+<tr><td align="right">1st.</td><td> Garzab: those who have a beard.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">2d.</td><td> Morhag: those with beard beginning.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">3d.</td><td> Sabaai: those without beard.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">4th.</td><td> Sadasi: grown children.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">5th.</td><td> Hhamasi, or children.</td></tr>
+<tr><td colspan="2"></td></tr>
+<tr><td colspan="2"></td></tr>
+<tr><td colspan="2" align="center"><h5><span class="smcap">Females.</span></h5></td></tr>
+
+
+<tr><td colspan="2">Ajouza, old women, not classified.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">1st.</td><td> Shamalia: those with the breasts
+hanging down.<a name="page203" id="page203"></a><span class="pageno">[203]</span></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">2d.</td><td> Dabukia: those with the breasts plump.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">3d.</td><td> Farkhah: those with little breasts.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">4th.</td><td> Sadasia: girls, smaller.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">5th.</td><td> Hhamasiah, or children.</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>The best of the slaves now go to Niffee, to be
+there shipped for America; they are mostly males,
+of the class 2d, 3d, 4th, and are minutely examined
+before departure. From all reports, there is
+an immense traffic of slaves that way exchanged
+against American goods, which are driving out of
+the markets all the merchandise of the north.</p>
+
+<h5><i>Prices:</i>&mdash;I. <span class="smcap">Males.</span></h5>
+
+<table summary="prices for male slaves">
+<tr><td align="right">1st.</td><td colspan="2">From 10,000 to 15,000 wad&acirc;s.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">2d.</td><td align="right">30,000</td><td align="center">and under.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">3d.</td><td align="right">35,000</td><td align="center">"</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">4th.</td><td align="right">30,000</td><td align="center">"</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">5th.</td><td align="right">20,000</td><td align="center">"</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<h5><span class="smcap">II. Females.</span></h5>
+
+<table summary="prices for female slaves">
+<tr><td align="right">1st.</td><td align="right">10,000</td><td align="center">and under.</td><td>(Ajouza.)</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">2d.</td><td align="right"> 80,000</td><td align="center">"</td><td></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">3d.</td><td align="right">100,000</td><td align="center">"</td><td></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">4th.</td><td align="right">40,000</td><td align="center">"</td><td></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">5th.</td><td align="right">30,000</td><td align="center">"</td><td></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="right">6th.</td><td align="right">20,000</td><td align="center">"</td><td></td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>The above are the prices of Kanou; there is
+sometimes a difference of 5,000 or 10,000 wad&acirc;s.<a name="page204" id="page204"></a><span
+class="pageno">[204]</span>
+A remark suggested by this list of prices is, that the
+value of human merchandise is determined by its
+present adaptation for consumption. No allowance
+is made for capability of development, intellectual
+or physical. Slave-drivers and slave-holders believe
+as little in a future here as hereafter.</p>
+
+<p>I give another account of the prices of slaves at
+the principal markets in this part of Africa, and at
+Smyrna and Constantinople. A good male slave
+is sold, at</p>
+
+<ul>
+<li>Kanou, for 10 or 12 dollars.</li>
+<li>Zinder, the price varies little.</li>
+<li>Mourzuk, for 40 dollars.</li>
+<li>Tripoli, from 60 to 65 dollars.</li>
+<li>Smyrna, 90 to 100 dollars.</li>
+<li>Constantinople, 90 to 100 dollars.</li>
+</ul>
+
+
+<p>A good female slave is sold, at</p>
+
+<ul>
+<li>Kanou, for 32 dollars.</li>
+<li>Zinder, a little more, or the same.</li>
+<li>Mourzuk, 85 dollars.</li>
+<li>Tripoli, 100 dollars.</li>
+<li>Smyrna, 130 dollars.</li>
+<li>Constantinople, 130 dollars.</li>
+</ul>
+
+
+<p>This is merely to show the difference of prices
+at these various places of slave traffic, and so
+enable the reader to form some notion of the profits
+of the commerce.</p>
+
+<p>I am very sorry to hear of the iniquitous manner
+in which slaves are captured for the supply of the
+north at this present time. It appears that, now all
+<a name="page205" id="page205"></a><span class="pageno">[205]</span>
+these populations are Muslims, it is difficult to get
+up the war-cry of <i>Kafers!</i>&mdash;"Infidels!" What is
+then done? The sultan of a province foments a
+quarrel with a town or village belonging to himself,
+and then goes out and carries off all the people into
+slavery. Thus acts the present Sultan of Zinder, and
+so did his brother during his year of administration.
+To appease the Sheikh of Bornou they send him a
+portion of the spoil. Indeed, the Sheikh countenances
+the system, so detrimental to his interests
+as a sovereign, and so immoral in its character.
+The brother of the present sultan was accustomed
+to go out every month, and bring in razzias of slaves,
+particularly to Dura, a country which belongs half
+to the Sheikhs of the Fullans. The real Kerdi
+people are now very distant, and you must go many
+days' journey if you will catch genuine Kafer slaves.</p>
+
+<p>On Friday, Yusuf paid his respects to the Sultan
+at noon, being the Sunday of the Muslims, when
+visits are made by true believers to the princes. He
+found his highness surrounded by his court, in a
+cloud of dust, which the people raised by throwing
+it in handfuls upon their heads, and thus doing
+homage to their prince. Yusuf and some other Moors
+obstinately abstained from such a grovelling mode of
+"rendering to C&aelig;sar the things which are C&aelig;sar's,"
+and contented themselves with saluting his highness
+in the Moorish fashion. Yusuf observed, "Our
+religion does not teach this servility." The natives
+salute their Sultan by the cry of "God give you<a name="page206" id="page206"></a><span class="pageno">[206]</span>
+victory!" (i.e. over your enemies.) In Soudanee this
+phrase is "<i>Allah sh&agrave;b&aacute;ka nas&#259;ra</i>;" and in Bornouese,
+"<i>K&aacute;bunam sherga!</i>"</p>
+
+<p><i>18th.</i>&mdash;I sent letters for Government and my
+wife <i>vi&acirc;</i> Kuka, as caravans are expected to leave
+Bornou for Moursuk about this time. My rooms
+were full of visitors to-day. First came the commander-in-chief,
+Shroma. I showed him all my
+treasures, portable peepshow, kaleidoscope, &amp;c. &amp;c.
+He was marvellously pleased. I treated him also
+with sugar, but coffee he positively refused as too
+bitter. He brought with him some twenty of his
+troops and a chosen aide-de-camp. He is just the
+man for a negro commander, full of cunning and
+address, very active if necessary, and on familiar
+terms with his men, pleasing them by low fun and
+buffoonery. Afterwards came the sons of the
+Sultan, all of whom I treated with sugar and
+coffee: that is, as many as would venture to taste of
+it. Then followed a host of Fezzan merchants, with
+the son of the Kadi of Kuka&mdash;a very nice, pleasant
+young fellow, who writes pretty good Arabic. He
+is to make out for me the route from Zinder to
+Kuka.</p>
+
+<p>I afterwards went to the Sultan himself, to show
+him my treasures, viz. peepshows and kaleidoscope.
+These barbarians are nothing but great wilful children.
+I also took the compass. We entered the
+interior of the building, where we found a number
+of officers, courtiers and slaves, squatted together on
+<a name="page207" id="page207"></a><span class="pageno">[207]</span>
+the sand, chatting most familiarly on all subjects.
+The building is all made of mud, mixed with large
+grains of granite. They say all the buildings of
+Bornou are built in the same manner, and very few
+of stone, on account of the rain; for the stone, not
+being well cemented together, falls during the
+great rains of the tropics.</p>
+
+<p>After we had been kept waiting about half an
+hour his highness made his appearance, the courtiers
+and slaves throwing dust on their heads,
+prostrating themselves on the ground before him,
+crying, "God give you victory over your enemies!"
+Whilst the Sultan took his seat upon the raised
+mud-bench, the slaves held up two wrappers or
+barracans, to shield his highness from public view
+whilst he took his seat. All the floor of the apartment
+was covered with a dense mass of people, and
+amongst the number several Tuaricks, including the
+Sheikh Lousou, and Haj Abdoua, another distinguished
+Tuarick. Lousou is a tall thin man, of
+light complexion, with European features&mdash;a perfect
+Targhee. His manners were very mild, and indeed
+all this tribe are gentle enough here in a foreign
+country. The Sheikh shook me cordially by the
+hands. I then commenced business as showman to
+the prince and this mass of people. At first his
+highness was timid, and would not look through
+the glasses of the peepshows, but when the people
+began he followed, and acquired the knack of<a name="page208" id="page208"></a><span class="pageno">[208]</span>
+looking through in a very short time. My compass
+and watch and keys were then all examined, and
+produced great amusement. What pleased him
+much was the screw by which the compass was
+stopped. I was dreadfully frightened lest the watch
+should be broken as well as the compass, and indeed
+the former has received some damage: such
+machines should not be handled by these negro
+grandees.</p>
+
+<p>Whilst this examination was going on, his highness,
+as if he had little time to lose, continued to
+administer justice. Several cases were settled whilst
+the worthy Sultan was looking through the peepshow
+and kaleidoscope. Among others, a man
+came forward in great agitation, and cried, "O
+Sultan! my wife will not live with me, and has run
+away to her father. I will give you three bullocks
+if you will fetch her back and make her live with
+me!" The Sultan smiled, and observed only,
+"Hem, your wife won't live with you! Well, what
+can I do?" Another man came forward and cried,
+"O Sultan! I am a thief, but you must pardon me.
+I stole this mat because I was a poor man" (holding
+up the mat). "I restore the mat." His highness
+observed, "Leave it; I will see what can be done."
+A collection of stolen articles was restored also by
+another person. Then came a man more bold, and
+brought a present from a neighbouring village, consisting
+of two large bowls of ghaseb and a bundle of<a name="page209" id="page209"></a><span class="pageno">[209]</span>
+wood. The man made a great clamour, holding up
+the present. His highness looked at him, and said,
+"Good, good; put them down."</p>
+
+<p>I am told his highness is much feared by all the
+people of the provinces. He has the character of
+being impartial. But the way in which he carries
+out capital punishment is truly terrible, and beyond
+conception barbarous. He neither hangs nor beheads.
+This mode of punishment is too mild for
+him. No; he actually cuts open the chest, and rips
+out the heart! or else hangs up people by the heels,
+and so inflicts upon them a lingering death. I am
+astonished that the Sheikh of Bornou permits such
+barbarity, but imagine that the Sheikh is still afraid
+of his vassal, and shrinks from endeavouring to deprive
+him of this awful power. Here, then, we have
+a specimen of the negro character, with all its
+contradictions; soft and effeminate in its ordinary
+moods; cheerful, and pleasant, and simple, to appearance;
+but capable of acting, as it were without
+transition, the most terrible deeds of atrocity. Say
+what you will of the barbarism of the Tuaricks,
+such a mode of inflicting capital punishment is unknown
+amongst them. I took leave of his highness,
+promising to come again another day and bring
+other things.</p>
+
+<p>This evening we were disturbed by the cries of
+the hy&aelig;na; a large one had come down upon the
+calves belonging to a drove of bullocks, and carried
+<a name="page210" id="page210"></a><span class="pageno">[210]</span>
+off one as big as itself. The brute seizes its prey
+by the throat, and so prevents the animal from
+giving intelligence to its pursuers. The place of
+execution is near my house, and when the Sultan
+executes any criminal the body is left unburied.
+At such times, troops of hy&aelig;nas, old and young,
+come down in the night, from the rocks and open
+country, and devour the body in a few minutes.
+The jackal does not visit this place, but is found in
+the open country. There are also many lions on
+the road between this and Kuka.</p>
+
+<p>A very simple mode of salutation is prevalent
+here in Zinder, said to be the custom of Wada&iuml;&mdash;that
+of merely clapping the palms of the hand
+together; the hand being held forward flat, not
+edge-ways.</p>
+
+<p>Gurasu is an interesting Tuarick territory, three
+days' journey north-east from Zinder, and two
+days from Minyo. This country consists of a number
+of small villages, scattered upon the rocks, or
+mountains. The inhabitants are especially those banditti
+who, from time to time, plunder the caravans
+on the route from Bornou to Mourzuk. Gurasu is
+seven days from Kanem, and Kanem is three days
+from the Bornou route. Kanem is mostly a desert
+country, and has now only a few inhabitants.</p>
+
+<p>Gurasu and Damerghou are the only Tuarick
+countries adjoining the provinces of the Sheikh of
+Bornou, and Gurasu is the last country east in this
+<a name="page211" id="page211"></a><span class="pageno">[211]</span>
+part of Africa. There is but very slight communication
+between it and Zinder; and little is known
+of the people, except that they are Tuaricks.</p>
+
+<p><i>19th.</i>&mdash;I again entertained visitors, who are still
+numerous, of all classes; and also paid a visit to the
+Shereef, and took with me the kaleidoscope, as he
+expressed a wish to see its revolving glowing
+beauties.</p>
+
+<p>Zinder is full of half-crazy fighis, who can just
+write the Arabic alphabet. They go about the
+streets begging piteously, with a calabash inkstand
+and reed-pen in their hands. I have been pestered
+with two or three every day since I came here.
+They also wander through the country parts of Damerghou.
+Bornou is the nursery of these silly
+pedagogues, in whom learning and madness are
+most cordially united; but, as I have already mentioned,
+it sends out a few instructed ones to redeem
+the reputation of these ignoramuses.</p>
+
+<p>In the afternoon I went to see the place of execution,
+and found it covered with human bones, the
+leavings of the hy&aelig;nas, whose dens are close by.
+Proceeding a little further I came to the Tree of
+Death! a lonely tree springing out of the rocks,
+some forty or fifty feet in height, and of the species
+called here <i>kanisa</i>. My guide would not approach
+it very near, for he assured me that if any person
+went under its boughs, there must instantly come an
+order from the Sultan to put him to death, or hang
+him heels upwards upon its branches. "Don't you<a name="page212" id="page212"></a><span class="pageno">[212]</span>
+see the place is swept clean underneath its boughs?
+This is done every day, and by the executioner
+alone: no other person dare go there, for if he do he
+must die!" I certainly began to feel sick myself at
+the recital of various horrors perpetrated at this
+place by the executioner, and don't know whether,
+if any one had offered me some great reward, I
+would have ventured to place my feet upon this
+accursed spot of mother earth. Never in my life
+did I feel so sick at heart&mdash;so revolted at man's
+crimes and cruelties. The tree itself was a true
+picture of death&mdash;a tree of dark, impenetrable
+foliage, with a great head, or upper part larger than
+the lower one, and this head crowned with fifty
+filthy vultures, the ministers of the executioner,
+which eat the bodies of the criminals! The number
+of executions here performed is very great&mdash;some
+two or three hundred in a year. Since we have
+been here a man has been butchered in the night,
+scarcely a hundred yards from my house; so that
+I am in a pleasant neighbourhood, what with the
+executions and what with the hy&aelig;nas. The people
+pretend that for a small offence the Sultan inflicts
+capital punishments: for example, merely speaking
+bad language.</p>
+
+<p>Turning from these disagreeable scenes, we went
+to see the dens of the hy&aelig;nas, which are beneath
+the rocks, extending far under ground. Here we
+saw bones and dung enough. The scavengers of
+Zinder are, therefore, the vultures and hy&aelig;nas: the
+<a name="page213" id="page213"></a><span class="pageno">[213]</span>
+former wing the air and dart on their prey by day,
+and the latter prowl the streets by night.</p>
+
+<p>In the evening we refreshed our fancies by witnessing
+the kanga, or drums beating to the dances
+of the maidens of Zinder. It is always the same
+thing, two or three fellows thumping upon their
+drums, dancing round them occasionally themselves,
+and the maidens approaching these drummers with
+timid steps. To-night they had a sort of hopping-dance,
+on one leg, keeping time to the beating of
+the drums. These coy maidens soon approached,
+or rather ran at me, and touched me with the hand;
+this done, they claim the right of a present. It is
+considered a favour to be so distinguished.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p><a name="page214" id="page214"></a><span class="pageno">[214]</span></p>
+
+
+
+<h2><a name="chapter13" id="chapter13"></a>CHAPTER XIII.</h2>
+
+<div class="summary">
+<p>Brother of the Sultan&mdash;Trade of Zinder&mdash;Prices&mdash;The Sarkee drinks
+Rum&mdash;Five Cities&mdash;Houses of Zinder&mdash;Female Toilette&mdash;Another
+Tree of Death&mdash;Paganism&mdash;Severity of the Sultan&mdash;Lemons&mdash;Barth
+and Overweg&mdash;Fire&mdash;Brother of the Sarkee&mdash;Daura&mdash;Shonshona&mdash;Lousou&mdash;Slaves
+in Irons&mdash;Reported Razzia&mdash;Talk with the Shereef&mdash;Humble
+Manners&mdash;Applications for Medicines&mdash;Towns and Villages of
+Zinder&mdash;The great Drum&mdash;Dyers&mdash;Tuarick Visits&mdash;Rationale
+of Razzias&mdash;Slaves&mdash;"Like Prince like People"&mdash;French in
+Algiers&mdash;The Market&mdash;Old Slave&mdash;Infamous System&mdash;Plan of the great
+Razzia.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><i>Jan. 20th.</i>&mdash;I received visits as usual, and one from a
+younger brother of the Sultan, whom I treated with
+coffee; and I also gave him a cotton handkerchief
+and a ring, so that he went away highly satisfied.
+He had a numerous train, all of whom had a peep at
+the show and a bit of sugar. This brother of the
+Sultan is a pleasant-looking fellow, a very different
+character from the man in power. He asked for
+saffron to colour charms with; but I had none to
+give him.</p>
+
+<p>Those who expect to find Zinder a great commercial
+d&eacute;p&ocirc;t will be much disappointed. The
+principal merchants here are the Sheikhs En-Noor
+<a name="page215" id="page215"></a><span class="pageno">[215]</span>
+and Lousou, and the other Tuarick of Asben, whom
+I have mentioned, called Haj Abdoua. Of Zinder
+merchants there are but two of consequence, the
+Morocco Shereef, Konchai, and Haj Amurmur, a
+Tibboo. The latter is always resident; but Abd-Effeit,
+or Shereef Konchai, goes abroad and trades.
+Both these are foreigners. There are, besides, a
+number of small traders, Tibboos and Fezzanees,
+who drive a few hard bargains with the Governor.
+At the present moment his highness has no money.
+All the specie is quickly carried off to Kuka. The
+Tuaricks have the goods and the money, and often
+make their own prices; but as they always demand
+ready cash, are obliged to wait long before they can
+dispose of their goods. Burnouses alone bring a
+great profit; for these are sold to sultans, who
+require a credit of several months. I am afraid I
+shall have to give a very poor account of the
+commerce of this portion of Africa, with reference
+to its being profitable to Europeans. The greater
+part of the goods in Kanou are cheaper than
+those found in the markets of Fezzan, or even
+Tripoli. The only way in which this commerce
+pays the Moorish merchants is by the purchase of
+slaves; and this, from casual circumstances <i>en route</i>,
+frequently turns out a loss. All the traders found
+on this road are mostly poor fellows, with small
+capitals: there is no equal to Waldee.</p>
+
+<p>Here is a statement of the prices of provisions
+in the market of Zinder:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p><a name="page216" id="page216"></a><span class="pageno">[216]</span></p>
+
+<p>An ox, 10,000 wad&acirc;s (for riding).</p>
+
+<p>A cow, for food, 8000.</p>
+
+<p>(N.B. Cows only are eaten, bullocks being used
+for riding and carrying burdens.)</p>
+
+<p>A sheep of the first quality, 1500 wad&acirc;s.</p>
+
+<p>A goat of the first quality, 1000.</p>
+
+<p>A good fowl, 100.</p>
+
+<p>A horse (of the best kind and condition),
+1,000,000.<a name="anchor15" id="anchor15"></a><a href="#footnote15" class="fnanchor">[15]</a></p>
+
+<p>An ass: he, 8000 wad&acirc;s; she, 6000 wad&acirc;s.</p>
+
+<p>A zekka of ghaseb: large, 10 wad&acirc;s; small, 6
+wad&acirc;s.</p>
+
+<p>(N.B. When there is but little rain, a zekka of
+ghaseb consists only of two handfuls.)</p>
+
+<p>A pound of samen, 40 wad&acirc;s.</p>
+
+<p>A pound of honey, 60 wad&acirc;s.</p>
+
+<p>A zekka of wheat, or one handful, 10 wad&acirc;s.</p>
+
+<p>A zekka of rice, or about six handfuls, is 20
+wad&acirc;s.</p>
+
+<p>A canto of salt, of the weight of about a quarter
+of a cantar, is now sold for 1200, because the salt-caravan
+has just arrived; but after two or three
+months it will fetch 2500 wad&acirc;s.</p>
+
+<p>His highness the Sultan expressed the most
+ardent desire to see and make himself acquainted
+with the rum, and other strong drinks of the
+Christians, having heard from his son-in-law and
+interpreter, the little Shereef, that I had a supply of
+<a name="page217" id="page217"></a><span class="pageno">[217]</span>
+these liquors with me. After resisting some time,
+I delivered up to his highness half a bottle of mastic,
+with which retiring to his innermost chamber, and
+taking with him his son-in-law, he made himself
+very merry; so much so, that he was unable to make
+his appearance in public or justice-hall all this day.</p>
+
+<p>The immediate territories of Bornou contain five
+large and important capitals, viz. Zinder, which
+belongs to Haj Beshir, the prime minister.</p>
+
+<p>Mashena, belonging to Mala Ibrahim, second
+minister.</p>
+
+<p>Minyo, belonging to Abd-Er-Rahman, brother
+of the Sheikh.</p>
+
+<p>Yumbi, belonging to the mother of the Sultan.</p>
+
+<p>These capitals are the centres of large populations
+and provinces.</p>
+
+<p>The taxes are appropriated by the various personages
+to whom they are given by the Sheikh,
+but these personages are expected to give up to his
+highness the greater part of the funds which they
+derive from them.</p>
+
+<p><i>21st.</i>&mdash;I made various routes, and got a statement
+of the principal articles of commerce, as
+current in Zinder and Kanou, Mourzuk and Tripoli.
+I repeat, there is no chance for an English
+merchant in this part of Africa.</p>
+
+<p>The houses of Zinder are mostly built of double
+matting, but a good number have mud walls and
+thatched roofs. Others are all built of mud. There
+are no nice mosques with minarets. The residence
+<a name="page218" id="page218"></a><span class="pageno">[218]</span>
+of the Sultan is a fort of mud, with walls of some
+height; it overlooks all the other buildings. The
+Shereef Kebir has also a mud house, with walls of
+some height. There are two principal streets, running
+from the south to the north; one terminating
+at the castle of the Governor, and the other in the
+market. These are of some width, there being
+space for a dozen camels to pass abreast. There
+are, besides, many little squares before the houses
+of the grandees, where the people lounge: the
+streets are always full of idle people.</p>
+
+<p>Instead of <i>suak</i>, the women used here the calix
+of a flower, called <i>furai</i>, for staining their teeth
+with a deep amber colour. It is the fashion for
+ladies to dress their hair in solid knots, two of which
+fall over the temples, one over the ear, and the
+other at the back of the head. Some of the women
+have hair tolerably long. I noticed to-day the
+shonshonah of Daura. It consists of two thick cuts,
+forming an angle at the corner of the mouth, with a
+few small ones on the temples.</p>
+
+<p>I went to see another Tree of Death, where his
+highness slaughters criminals in the same way as
+mentioned under the other tree. The space beneath
+the boughs is also swept clean. This tree is more
+spreading, and of another sort; it is crowned with
+the filthy vultures, which roost day and night in
+considerable numbers on its upper branches. Yusuf
+tells me the history of these trees, when the inhabitants
+were pagans. It was under them that the<a name="page219" id="page219"></a><span class="pageno">[219]</span>
+people sacrificed their oxen and sheep to the deity,
+who was supposed to reside in these trees. Scarcely
+a generation has elapsed since this was the case,
+so that the people may well dread to venture where,
+in the time of old men yet living, sacrifices, some
+perhaps human, were offered up.</p>
+
+<p>The Sheikh is obliged to keep a tight hand over
+the inhabitants of Zinder, to prevent them from
+lapsing into paganism. His father made them
+Muslims, and he holds them to the profession of
+Islamism.</p>
+
+<p>No news from Tesaoua respecting the four
+persons who were sent to bring Drs. Barth and
+Overweg first to Bornou, before they went to
+Soudan. I have had several patients, but ophthalmia
+does not prevail here as in Damerghou.</p>
+
+<p>A constant succession of visitors troubled me all
+day long. Another son of the Sultan came this
+morning&mdash;quite a young man&mdash;and a dozen of boys
+from the palace, some sons of the Sultan, and
+others of his ministers. I gave them all a little
+piece of white sugar, and sent them off. This is
+the cheapest present.</p>
+
+<p>I am told that all the Tuaricks are dreadfully
+afraid of the Sultan of Zinder, for whenever his
+highness catches an offender, let him be of what
+tribe of Tuaricks he may, he cuts off his head with
+as much unconcern as a poulterer of Leadenhall
+market does that of a goose.</p>
+
+<p>I hear now that, since the dispersion of the<a name="page220" id="page220"></a><span class="pageno">[220]</span>
+Walad Suleiman, the route of Bornou, from Kuka
+to the Tibboos, is quite secure.</p>
+
+<p>Some lemons have been brought to me, equal in
+flavour, though small, to those of the north coast.
+In Soudan they are marvellously cheap; ten are
+sold at Kanou for the fiftieth part of a penny, viz.
+one wad&acirc;; for the same single wad&acirc; forty can be
+had at Kashna. There are forests of lemon-trees
+in Soudan.</p>
+
+<p>The news has arrived from the salt-caravan, that
+Barth says that he will not return even if they
+threaten to cut his throat. En-Noor is at Tesaoua,
+and says they should return; but the salt-caravan is
+distant from him, and the communication between
+the two places is difficult.&mdash;I had scarcely written
+these words when the four people sent to bring
+back Drs. Barth and Overweg returned without
+them, and brought letters from my colleagues, each
+one stating that he should continue his journey as
+previously determined. Ferajee, one of the messengers,
+pretends that En-Noor is going with Overweg
+to Maradee; which is very unlikely. Dr. Barth
+seems very angry, but his comrade takes matters
+more easily.</p>
+
+<p>The Shereef Kebir is said to be the only person
+who has money in Zinder. This man monopolises
+all the power and all the money. I do not know
+how long this will last, but I should think it will
+soon make both the Sultan and the people of Zinder
+disaffected. As it is, all the merchants of Zinder
+<a name="page221" id="page221"></a><span class="pageno">[221]</span>
+are foreigners, and so have the disposal of all the
+goods most coveted by the blacks, who have only
+the ghaseb and the cattle.</p>
+
+<p><i>22d.</i>&mdash;The morning is hazy and mild, the thermometer
+standing at 57&deg;.</p>
+
+<p>A fire broke out close to us early this morning,
+and two or three huts were immediately consumed.
+However, the people quenched the flames in a very
+short time. I wonder half the town is not burnt
+down every now and then. Visitors pour in upon
+me as soon as I am up and dressed; and some
+patients likewise.</p>
+
+<p>The brother of the present Sarkee of Zinder, who
+ruled a year in Zinder, is called Tanimu. He has a
+great military reputation, and is a brave man. During
+his administration he razzied no less than thirty
+countries. Daura, or Dura, was the principal theatre
+of his exploits. This Daura is a country consisting of
+about a thousand towns and villages; four hundred
+belonging to the Fullans, and six hundred to the
+Sheikh of Bornou. The Fullanee Sultan is called
+Mohammed Bello, and he of the Sheikh, Sofo Lukudi.
+The nearest place in Daura is not more than
+one day S.W. of Zinder. The people of the country
+are remarkably expert in the use of the bow and
+arrow; and their arrows are very strong, piercing
+through, as the people say, <i>three</i> boxes, and afterwards
+killing a man. The wound of these arrows
+is fatal, the flesh of the smitten part rising up immediately
+into an enormous swelling. The brother of<a name="page222" id="page222"></a><span class="pageno">[222]</span>
+the present Sarkee brought in hundreds of slaves
+from Daura, the people at the same time having
+risen against the authority of the Sheikh.</p>
+
+<p>The blacks of Kanou&mdash;not the Fullans&mdash;do not
+scarify their faces like their neighbours. The form
+of the shonshona of Zinder and its provinces is four
+cuts on each side the cheek, but not drawn very
+near the corner of the mouth; that is, rather towards
+the ears. In Tumbi and Gumel, provinces of Bornou,
+they draw four on the left side of the cheek and
+five on the right side; the cuts not drawn very near
+either the corner of the mouth or the ears. Maradee
+and Kashna have six cuts on each side of the cheek,
+drawn from the top of the ears down to the corner
+of the mouth. Gouber has four small cuts close to
+the corner of the mouth. The people of the Sheikh
+of Bornou have two small cuts drawn down the face,
+under each eyelid, and one in the forehead, between
+the eyes. Even Mekka has its shonshona. One of
+the shereefs here in Zinder, who was born in that
+holy city, has three small cuts on each side his face,
+drawn down the fleshy part of the cheek. It is only
+in Mekka that the shonshona is seen. The other
+countries of Arabia do not use this disfigurement.<a name="anchor16" id="anchor16"></a><a href="#footnote16"
+class="fnanchor">[16]</a></p>
+
+<p>The Sheikh Lousou sent his slave to salute me
+on his part. They say, that had we been committed
+to his care, he would not have fleeced us like En-Noor.
+<a name="page223" id="page223"></a><span class="pageno">[223]</span>
+But I almost question if he would have been
+strong enough to protect us. I observe, again, that
+all the Tuaricks are well behaved in Zinder, and
+have a wholesome dread of the Sheikh.</p>
+
+<p>Many of the domestic slaves in Zinder are constantly
+ironed, for fear they should run away to the
+neighbouring towns and villages. The poor people
+live just like convicts. It is only when they are
+taken to Kuka, or to a great distance, that their
+irons are struck off.</p>
+
+<p>The report is now current in Zinder, that the
+Sarkee is going, in the course of seven or eight days,
+to razzia some neighbouring place in the direction
+of Daura. They say, even, that he will not scruple
+to razzia some of the villages of Meria if necessary;
+that is to say, a part of the province of Zinder. My
+informants observed merely, "Oh, he must have
+slaves to pay his debts; and as the largest fish eat
+the little fish, so the great people eat the small
+people." Thus the protection of Islamism is now
+come to nothing, and the cry is,&mdash;"To the razzia!"
+without mentioning even the name of Kafer or
+Kerdi. In the end this will retard the progress of
+Mahommedanism; for the blacks see that it is now
+no protection for them against their more powerful
+neighbours and their periodical razzias.</p>
+
+<p>I visited several personages this afternoon; first,
+the Shereef Kebir, with whom I ate some broiled
+fish brought from a neighbouring lake, and some
+fine Bilma dates, soaked in milk. I asked him how
+<a name="page224" id="page224"></a><span class="pageno">[224]</span>
+it was that the Sheikh committed to the governors
+or sultans of the provinces the awful power of life
+and death. "Oh," replied he, "the Sheikh has
+given them this power that he might not be bothered
+with their reports about criminals. It is far better
+to finish quick with these people." Where there
+are periodical razzias the sacredness of human life
+is unknown, and the Shereef has been, besides,
+many years in the camp of Abd-el-Kader, where a
+good deal of sanguinary work was carried on. He
+thought it, therefore, quite right that the Sheikh
+should not fatigue his sovereign conscience by deciding
+on the lives of criminals and other suspected
+persons, and that the sooner they were hung or
+slaughtered the better.</p>
+
+<p>From the Shereef I passed on to the brother of
+the Sultan, a young man of mild manners. I entered
+the inner part of the house, where were the
+women. Verily the Zinder people have a strange
+love of dust, dirt, and bare mud walls. In the two
+or three beehive huts which I explored, there was
+not a single article of furniture, nor a mat to lie
+down upon. The brother of the Sultan was sitting
+by his sister, and both on the dust of the ground,
+without a mat. I am told, however, that they sleep
+on mats and skins, which are, indeed, cheap
+enough; two or three pence, or two or three hundred
+wad&acirc;s, would purchase a good one. The sister
+of the Sultan was coloured well with indigo, the
+dark blue of which replaces the yellow ochre of the
+<a name="page225" id="page225"></a><span class="pageno">[225]</span>
+ladies of fashion in Aheer. This Zinder lady had
+also the end of the tufts of her hair&mdash;I cannot call
+them curls&mdash;formed into clayey sticks of macerated
+indigo. For the rest, she had little clothing, her
+arms and bust being quite bare. All the other
+ladies with her were coloured in like fashion, and
+had their hair dressed in a similar manner.</p>
+
+<p>Afterwards I visited an old Tripoline Mamluke,
+who has been up here twenty-two long years. He
+came alone, and has now a household of twenty-eight
+persons, including wives, children, and slaves.
+He is called Mohammed El-Wardi, knew Dr.
+Oudney, and even mentioned his name, recollecting
+it after so many years. He knew also the other
+travellers. Some of his family are in Kuka.</p>
+
+<p>Various applications are made me for remedies
+to avert certain evils, and one man applied for
+a means to make him sell his goods quick: this
+was a Tibboo trader.</p>
+
+<p>It would appear that some of the routes from
+Zinder to neighbouring places are not very safe;
+that from this place to Kanou, even, is somewhat
+dangerous for small parties, there being woods on
+the road, in which lurk banditti, who lie in wait for
+unprotected caravans. With good travelling, Kanou
+is only eight or ten days from Zinder, and Kashna
+four or five. It is not easy to get the route here by
+hours, for the people are ignorant of this way of reckoning
+the routes. By days, something may be done.</p>
+
+<p>The Moorish merchants resident here pretend<a name="page226" id="page226"></a><span class="pageno">[226]</span>
+that the territory of Zinder contains no less than
+two thousand <i>belad</i>, or inhabited spots, towns, villages,
+and hamlets, and some of these are large
+towns&mdash;as large, or larger, than Zinder. Damagram
+is a populous place, more so than Zinder;
+but the whole of the province of Zinder has this
+name, the people being all Damagrama. The town
+of Damagram was once the capital of the province.
+The large towns are:&mdash;</p>
+
+<ul>
+<li>Damagram, one day and a-half south-east.</li>
+<li>Dakusa, five hours south.</li>
+<li>Termeni, three hours south.</li>
+<li>Washa, two days and a-half west.</li>
+<li>Goshi, two days east.</li>
+<li>Bidmuni, one day east.</li>
+<li>Andera, one day east.</li>
+<li>Jegana, one day south.</li>
+<li>Jermo, one day south.</li>
+<li>Guria, one-half day west.</li>
+<li>Meria, six hours south-east.</li>
+<li>Konchai, one day and a-half west.</li>
+<li>Gorgahn, one-half hour.</li>
+<li>Mageria, two days south-west.</li>
+<li>Fatram, two days south.</li>
+<li>Dalladi, six hours north.</li>
+</ul>
+
+
+<p>All these are towns, some larger than Zinder.</p>
+
+<p>I expect to see the great drum brought here,
+and to hear it beaten. It has led the people of
+Zinder to the razzia during the time of twelve sultans.
+The drummer, when he beats the drum in<a name="page227" id="page227"></a><span class="pageno">[227]</span>
+leading on the people to the razzia, repeats the
+perpetual chorus of <i>Jatau chi geri</i>&mdash;"The red
+(Sultan) eats up the country." He is afraid to
+mention the name of the Sultan, and so repeats the
+word red, as distinguishing royalty; but whether in
+the same way as purple distinguished the Roman
+emperors, or because kings delight in blood, does
+not appear.</p>
+
+<p>I went to see the process of indigo dyeing.
+The dyers bore circular pits of about fifteen or
+twenty feet deep, and three feet in diameter, in
+which they throw the things to be dyed, and leave
+them there. The pits are full of the dye, produced
+by the leaves and the seed of the plant called <i>nila</i>,
+sodden in water. They dye tobes and raw cotton,
+and cotton twist; the work is carried on in the
+open air. About thirty people were employed at
+the pits which I saw. They also prepare indigo in
+a better way than what I saw at these pits.</p>
+
+<p><i>23d.</i>&mdash;I have not quite done with the Tuaricks,
+and had many visitors of that tribe to-day; amongst
+the rest, our old friends and robbers, Ferajee and
+Deedee. I told Ferajee I had my boxes full of gold
+and silver, and asked him to buy. He replied,
+"Ah, el-Consul did not say so in Asben; he said
+<i>babo</i> (there is none)!" At this, all our visitors burst
+out in a roaring laugh. I rejoined, "Oh, no,
+Ferajee; because I was then amongst thieves and
+robbers." (Continued laughter.) I went to see<a name="page228" id="page228"></a><span class="pageno">[228]</span>
+the souk;&mdash;everybody was very civil;&mdash;no calling
+Kafer!&mdash;Tuaricks all as still as mice.</p>
+
+<p>I called upon the Shereef Kebir, and drank
+with him tea and coffee, which he makes in Magrabi
+fashion, putting the sugar in the tea-pot. I observed,
+"How is this? I hear the Sultan is going soon on
+a razzia." Somewhat disconcerted, he replied,
+<i>Allah y&acirc;lem!</i>&mdash;"God teaches!" After some time,
+he explained that the Sheikh left his vassals great
+liberty in this matter; that the Sultan of Zinder
+was permitted to go to Daura and eat up the Kohlans,
+but not the Fullans, between whom and the
+Sheikh there was peace: that is to say, the Fullans
+were not to be made slaves, but the Kohlan subjects
+of the Fullans might be captured. The Sheikh
+was not friendly to Maradee, and wished the Sultan
+of Zinder to attack that country; but the Sarkee
+was a friend of Maradee, and would not, &amp;c. &amp;c. So
+it is quite clear these Sarkees, or at any rate the
+one in Zinder, have great latitude of action. After
+hesitating still more about these razzias, the Shereef
+said, "Oh, you see the strong devour the weak;
+there are no regular governments here."</p>
+
+<p>In the souk to-day, it was proved beyond all
+doubt that the Zinder people sell themselves into
+foreign slavery. Many of the slaves for sale had
+the Zinder scarified marks on their faces. There
+were also specimens from Maradee. Slaves are
+sent from Zinder to Niffee. Indeed, it now appears
+<a name="page229" id="page229"></a><span class="pageno">[229]</span>
+that all this part of Africa is put under contribution
+to supply the South American market with slaves.</p>
+
+<p>Zinder is considered within the circle of Soudan,
+and not to be Bornou, but only a Bornouese province.
+The Sheikh has in this province several
+Tuarick subjects, i.e. Tuaricks settled in the Zinder
+provinces.</p>
+
+<p>The souk to-day was full of people, but goods
+of value were wanting. Indeed, Zinder is now a
+poor place. Only the foreigners have any at their
+command. The Sarkee is at this moment desperately
+poor, and is going on this approaching razzia
+to raise money to satisfy his creditors. Verily, this
+<i>is</i> a "new way to pay old debts."</p>
+
+<p>I heard a curious explanation of the reason why
+the people of Zinder do not use mats or skins to lie
+down upon in the daytime. It is said they are
+afraid, because the Sarkee does not use them, and
+they must not display a luxurious taste not practised
+by their prince. This is the explanation of the
+Shereef and the little court of Arabs and Moors by
+which he is surrounded. "Like people like prince"
+is a proverb which I think I have heard.</p>
+
+<p>The Shereef told me this morning that he had
+made war with France, in Algeria, fourteen years,
+and he had been a prisoner of the French seven
+months. He said the French were people without
+religion, or faith in their words and promises, and
+could not be trusted. He showed me his French
+passport. However, he seems to have soon forgotten
+<a name="page230" id="page230"></a><span class="pageno">[230]</span>
+his troubles in Algeria, and is quiet now.
+He writes well, and has received a good education.
+His country is one day east of Tetuan, in the Rif
+mountains. He is likely to be very useful to the
+Sheikh in Zinder.</p>
+
+<p>I visited the souk again in the evening, and
+made a few small purchases of curiosities; but there
+are very few things to be got in this market, and
+those mostly come from Kanou. What things are
+made here are of the rudest manufacture.</p>
+
+<p>I passed the slave-market, and was greatly
+shocked to see a poor old woman for sale
+amongst the rest of human beings. She was
+offered for six thousand wad&acirc;s, about ten shillings
+in English money. It is quite impossible to conjecture
+of what use such a poor old creature can be.
+The Shereef Kebir made a present of a little boy
+to Sa&iuml;d of Haj Beshir this evening. The poor little
+fellow looked very pitiful. He was stolen from
+Daura. He has only one cheek marked with the
+shonshona, because his mother lost all the children
+which she bare before him; and the custom is,
+when a mother thus loses her children, to scarify
+only one cheek.</p>
+
+<p>The mode of supplying the slave-markets of the
+north and south is truly nefarious, and perhaps
+surpasses all the wickedness of the Tuaricks. The
+Sarkee of Zinder wants gour-nuts, and has no
+money to purchase them; he sends his servants or officers
+to a neighbouring village, and they steal in open
+<a name="page231" id="page231"></a><span class="pageno">[231]</span>
+day two or three families of people, and bring them
+to the Sarkee. These poor wretches are immediately
+exchanged for the gour-nuts. A boy steals
+some trifling articles&mdash;a few needles; he is forthwith
+sold in the souk; and not only he, but "if the
+Sarkee wants money," his father and mother, brothers
+and sisters: and "if the Sarkee is very much
+pressed for money," his familiars search for the
+brothers of the father, and all their relations.
+Indeed, crime is a lucrative source of supply for the
+prince, and what his vengeance spares from the
+executioner is sold into foreign slavery.</p>
+
+<p>In the approaching razzia, the Sarkee is expected
+to take the common route of Daura, and
+carry off the villagers subjected to the Sheikh; for,
+contrary to the opinion of the Shereef Kebir, the
+Sarkee will not attack the Kohlans, who are the
+subjects of the Fullan, but the <i>bon&acirc; fide</i> subjects of
+the Sheikh. He will probably bring back one
+thousand slaves or captives. He will send two
+hundred to the Sheikh, with such a message as
+this:&mdash;"I have eaten up the Kafers of Daura; here
+is your offering of two hundred Kafers." Should
+the Sheikh receive a remonstrance from the Bornou
+governor of Daura, that the Sarkee of Zinder has
+come upon him and carried off Muslims, his subjects,
+he will shut his ears. In all these razzias the
+lesser chiefs act an important part, and each gets a
+share. A chief who fights under the Sarkee captures
+fifty slaves, and gives up to the Sarkee<a name="page232" id="page232"></a><span class="pageno">[232]</span>
+twenty-five or thirty, keeping the rest for himself
+and people.</p>
+
+<p>If a single undistinguished man captures five,
+the Sarkee gets two of the five; another captures
+two, the Sarkee gets one, and the captor one. So
+all have a common interest in these nefarious
+razzias, and all start off with the utmost glee to
+capture their neighbours, their brethren, and to sell
+them into bondage. The Sarkee of Zinder will
+take with him about five thousand cavalry and
+thirty thousand foot (bowmen), drawn from these
+portions of the provinces against which the razzia
+is not now directed.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="footnote15" id="footnote15"></a><a href="#anchor15">[15]</a> 83<i>l.</i> 6<i>s.</i>
+The price mentioned in a former page, viz. 1000,000
+wad&acirc;s is evidently erroneous.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="footnote16" id="footnote16"></a><a href="#anchor16">[16]</a> Many
+Egyptians, men and women, practise tattooing; and if I
+mistake not, I have seen evidences of the existence of the practice
+mentioned in the text in some parts of Egypt.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p><a name="page233" id="page233"></a><span class="pageno">[233]</span></p>
+
+
+
+<h2><a name="chapter14" id="chapter14"></a>CHAPTER XIV.</h2>
+
+<div class="summary">
+<p>Family of the Sarkee&mdash;Converted Jew&mdash;Hard Dealings&mdash;How to
+get rid of a Wife&mdash;Route to Tesaoua&mdash;Influence of Slavery&mdash;Prices
+of Aloes and Silk&mdash;Medicine for a Merchant&mdash;Departure of the Sarkee
+for the Razzia&mdash;Encampment&mdash;Mode of Fighting&mdash;Produce of Razzias&mdash;Story
+of the Tibboo&mdash;Sheikh Lousou&mdash;Gumel&mdash;Superstitions&mdash;Matting&mdash;Visit
+of Ladies&mdash;The Jew&mdash;Incendiaries&mdash;Hazna&mdash;Legend of Zinder
+Well&mdash;Kohul&mdash;Cousin of the Sheikh&mdash;Female Sheikh&mdash;State of the
+Country&mdash;Salutations.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><i>Jan. 24th.</i>&mdash;The thermometer stood last night at 74&deg;
+after dark. This morning it is, as usual, about 56&deg;.
+The weather is still hazy; but the town is remarkably
+healthy, and there are very few cases of fever
+at the present time. Zinder, by the people, is said
+to be always cool.</p>
+
+<p>His highness the Sarkee of Zinder is a prince of
+true African and Asiatic calibre. He has three
+hundred wives, one hundred sons, and fifty daughters;
+but his women are not prisoners in a harem.
+His wives and daughters are seen about the streets
+walking alone, and the daughters are given in marriage
+to the grandees of the court. His wives,<a name="page234" id="page234"></a><span class="pageno">[234]</span>
+likewise, are often found with paramours outside
+the palace.</p>
+
+<p>I went to see a Jew who has been some time
+resident in Zinder. This Jew is one of those three
+who came to Mourzuk with Abd-el-Galeel, and
+after his death turned Muslims, and came up to
+Soudan and Bornou. He is called Ibrahim. The
+one now in Tesaoua, and who is going with Overweg
+to Maradee, is Mousa; and the other is called Isaac.
+The Moors put no faith in the conversion of these
+Jews: they say, "These men are always Jews in
+their hearts; they turned Muslims on speculation."
+It is certain that they got handsome presents at
+Mourzuk from the credulous believers. Of others,
+the Moors say they became Muslims to prevent
+the Tuaricks from killing them. I asked Ibrahim
+how he passed the Tuarick countries, and was informed
+that the Gh&acirc;tees treated him the worst.
+They swore he was not a Muslim, but still a
+Jew, and demanded one hundred dollars from him
+to pass. He got off with fifty; whilst to the Aheer
+people he paid about twenty dollars. A Christian
+or a Jew must never think he will be able to save
+his money, or, much less, his credit, by apostatising,
+for these Tuaricks will always swear his conversion
+is sham, however real it may be. He will always
+have to pay the same money, whether he keep his
+religion or sell it for the chance of saving his
+worthless gold and silver.</p>
+
+<p>All these Jews, however, seem to have thriven<a name="page235" id="page235"></a><span class="pageno">[235]</span>
+in their apostasy. Ibrahim of Zinder is worth about
+six or seven thousand dollars, and, besides being a
+working-jeweller, is a merchant. I tried to exchange
+some of my imitation rings for his silver
+ones, but it was useless. He had the conscience to
+demand thirty of my nicely-made rings for one of
+his trumpery, ill-made silver ones&mdash;silver with a
+very bad alloy. Then he wanted a pretty cotton-print
+handkerchief for a miserable silver bead.
+With such people it is impossible to strike a bargain.
+These Barbary Jews are the hardest and
+most tricky dealers in the world. Ibrahim has been
+laid up with a bad leg for five months, and intends
+going to Kuka when he gets better. He wanted
+me to sell him some mastic, but I refused. He
+said he wished to have one jolly day, but the fellow
+is almost a skeleton with his ulcerous leg.</p>
+
+<p>The Shereef Saghir is quite a character. He has
+been over the greater part of the world, and along
+the Indian coast&mdash;has seen the English in India,
+and the Christians in many ways and manners;
+and so is free from all sort of fanaticism. He wants
+now to return with me to England. He says&mdash;Soudan
+is <i>b&acirc;tal</i> (worthless), and that if he take his
+wife, the daughter of the Sarkee of Zinder, with
+him to the north coast, he will sell her, and so finish
+his connexion with the negroes! I forgot to mention
+that Ibrahim has brought with him a Muslim
+wife from Mourzuk, and has now two or three
+black wives, and several children.</p>
+
+<p><a name="page236" id="page236"></a><span class="pageno">[236]</span></p>
+
+<p>From the courier who came from Dr. Overweg
+I have obtained the following account of the route
+from Zinder to Tesaoua:</p>
+
+<p>From Zinder direct west to Tus, 1 hour; village:
+to Termini, 5 hours; village: to Dambidda, 1 hour;
+a large village: to Babul, 5 hours; village: to Gumda,
+4 hours; village: to Kurnaua, 4 hours; village: to
+Garagumsa, 5 hours; village: to Shabari, 7 hours;
+village: to Maizirgi, 1 hour; large village: to Tesaoua,
+5 hours.</p>
+
+<p>Along this route there is abundance of herbage
+and trees, but no running water or wadys. There
+are wells of great depth. The distances between
+the various villages being in all, when summed up,
+thirty-eight hours, we must consider the whole
+length of the route three long and four short days'
+journey, as the caravans generally arrive on the
+fourth day.</p>
+
+<p>Slavery is the curse of all these countries. My
+Soudan servant, Amankee, would not come with
+me to Zinder, on account of his longing desire to
+see his mother and brother and sisters; and yet,
+although these feelings are deep in the bosoms of
+all the blacks, they can see their neighbours torn
+away from their houses and carried off in irons with
+the greatest indifference. The slaves of the Sarkee
+of Zinder are double-ironed, like convicts, and in
+this condition jump through the streets, for they
+cannot walk. The backs of these poor slaves are
+all ulcerated with the strokes of the whip.</p>
+
+<p><a name="page237" id="page237"></a><span class="pageno">[237]</span></p>
+
+<p>I received a visit this morning from the Jew
+Ibrahim. After a good deal of wrangling I exchanged
+three handkerchiefs for three beads of
+silver, but one of the beads I made him a present
+of. I was much surprised to hear from him that
+the aloe wood, <i>aoud el-Komari</i>, sold in Bornou for
+its equal weight in silver. He also stated that
+twelve rubtas of raw silk sold for one real in
+Mourzuk and Zinder, whilst fifteen could be purchased
+in Kauou for the same money. What will
+become of the goods of the Germans?</p>
+
+<p>En-Noor's wife, Fatia, sent this morning for
+medicine to enable her to bring forth a child.
+I maliciously recommended to her a younger husband.
+A Tibboo has continued to pester me to
+death for a medicine to make him profit in his
+mercantile transactions. To get rid of him, being
+in a merry mood, I scribbled over a piece of paper,
+and he swallowed it. A great number of people
+come for medicines who are not sick. I generally
+content myself with a bare refusal, explaining that
+there is no necessity; but there is nothing so difficult
+as to convince a man that he is well when once
+he has persuaded himself of the contrary.</p>
+
+<p>The Sarkee went out this morning to his razzia
+and does not return for some days, so I shall not be
+able to take leave of his highness. The gossips
+persist in saying that he is dreadfully in want of
+money, and must go out to bring in some slaves
+to pay his debts. He was attended by about one<a name="page238" id="page238"></a><span class="pageno">[238]</span>
+thousand cavalry, and a good number of maharees.
+He is gone southwards. They report that he is
+indeed gone to Daura, but nothing is known positively
+as to whether he will capture the Sheikh's
+subjects or those of the Fellatahs. The Sarkee,
+on a former occasion, captured a great many people
+belonging to Germal, one of the Sheikh's provinces,
+and an order was forthwith sent to him to
+restore them to their homes and lands. He was
+compelled to comply. Besides slaves, the Sarkee
+will bring in bullocks and horses; but the sheep
+taken are eaten by the troops of the razzia. His
+highness is expected to gather an army of 2000
+horse, and 10,000 on foot, besides camels for provisions
+and water, when completed. The plan and
+route of the expedition are kept a profound secret, so
+that the army will fall upon the unsuspecting population
+by surprise.</p>
+
+<p>After about three or four hours' ride the Sarkee
+usually encamps, and a souk, or market, is opened
+at the camp for provisions. "There are no women
+with the <i>yaki</i> (or army of razzia), the men cook
+and do all the work," says my informant. At night
+the Sultan calls round him his chosen troops, and
+distributes gour-nuts, and makes presents of provisions.
+He then sleeps a few hours, and probably
+starts at midnight, or as soon as the moon rises.
+A slave, a soldier of the Sarkee, who has been to
+a hundred razzias, tells me, that three years ago
+this Sarkee went to attack him of Daura in his<a name="page239" id="page239"></a><span class="pageno">[239]</span>
+capital. On arriving before the town the army of
+Zinder set fire to all the ghaseb stubble and the
+garden-trees around it. This done, they commenced
+a regular battle with the besieged. The
+fight continued till night, when the Sarkee of
+Daura fled. The Zinder people carried off a large
+booty: the share of the Sultan alone was nine
+hundred.</p>
+
+<p>This freebooting prince does not fight himself,
+but sits down at a distance from his troops and
+overlooks their conduct and manoeuvres; his generals
+command and lead on the attack, whilst a
+body-guard surrounds the sacred person of the
+monarch. On the occasion referred to, this body-guard
+was covered with mattrass-stuffing to shield
+off the terrible arrows of the Daura people. The
+greater part of the troops of Zinder have only a
+spear; a few have shields and swords, but none have
+muskets. All the Daura people have bows and
+arrows. There are numbers of petty traders here
+waiting for the booty of this razzia, and some of
+the creditors of the Sarkee went this morning to
+wish him God speed. I am glad I did not go
+out to see him start on such a nefarious expedition.
+It appears, however, that we are not to leave for
+Kuka until the return of the army. They intimate
+that a portion of the spoil will be sent with us to
+the great Sheikh of Bornou: so that after all, however
+unwilling, we shall seem to countenance this
+bloody work.</p>
+
+<p><a name="page240" id="page240"></a><span class="pageno">[240]</span></p>
+
+<p><i>26th, Sunday.</i>&mdash;We have still to remain here
+another week at least, so I must make what use
+I can of the time of this delay, caused by the nefarious
+razzia, now in course of operation. In the
+extravagant manner that this government of Zinder
+conducts its affairs, it can only support itself by
+periodical expeditions of this kind. There is one
+Fez merchant here, to whom the Sarkee owes four
+millions of wad&acirc;s, or about two thousand reals of
+Fezzan; and other creditors claim in a like proportion.
+Now, indeed, we begin to understand
+how the slave-markets of quasi-civilised countries
+are supplied by the surplus produce of these expeditions.</p>
+
+<p>The route from Aghadez to the country of Sidi
+Hashem, now governed by his son, is three days'
+journey, and from the country of Sidi Hashem to
+Wadnoun, three days: there is also a route of five
+days, a little more direct; and the route direct from
+Aghadez to Wadnoun is four days' journey.</p>
+
+<p>The story of the Tibboo is going the round of
+the town, and becoming the daily gossip. This
+story has now assumed a substantial historical
+shape. The facts are, as I have already intimated,
+that the Tibboo persecuted me to give him a medicine
+to enable him to trade with profit. I
+scribbled over a bit of paper, cut in the shape of
+a dollar, the number 10,000 dollars, and told him
+to swallow it, and afterwards to bring it me in the
+same state. The price for this was a fowl. He<a name="page241" id="page241"></a><span class="pageno">[241]</span>
+swallowed the paper, and went off to get the fowl.
+Not succeeding in the souk, he went to the Shereef
+Kebir, and requested him to give him a fowl for a
+sick person. The Shereef gave him what he asked,
+and the Tibboo brought it to me. This story since
+has been greatly embellished at the expense of the
+Tibboo, and affords infinite amusement to the
+Moorish and Arabic merchants of Zinder.</p>
+
+<p>I have just noticed some sable ladies, with their
+hair all twisted into three or four great points&mdash;vain
+attempts at curls. The back parts are all
+covered with a paste of indigo. The hair is well
+dressed, and free from any woolly appearance.</p>
+
+<p>Yesterday the Sheikh Lousou paid me a visit.
+I presented him with a loaf of sugar, and a cotton
+handkerchief. He received them with manifest
+pleasure, and promised to write a letter to the
+Queen, that, in the event of other English people
+or Europeans passing through the Tuarick country
+of Aheer, he would render them all the protection in
+his power. Lousou is esteemed by some persons
+as great a man as En-Noor in Zinder, but this
+estimation is exceedingly out of place. Lousou could
+give protection to European travellers and merchants,
+but not in an equal degree to En-Noor. As
+he is a younger man than En-Noor, however, it
+is desirable to secure his friendship, and, if possible,
+that of the Sarkee. Lousou wore the bag of camphor
+which I gave him, showing it to me with great
+satisfaction.</p>
+
+<p><a name="page242" id="page242"></a><span class="pageno">[242]</span></p>
+
+<p>According to the information of a slave of the
+Sarkee, Gumel is a large Bornouese province, the
+capital of which is Tumbi: the Sultan's name is
+Dan-Tanoma. Gumel is one day and a-half from
+Zinder, but the capital is three days by horse and
+five days by camel travelling. Gumel has twelve
+great officers. Bundi is a large province of Bornou,
+the capital of which is Galadima: the Sultan's
+name is Kagami. Galadima is three days from
+Zinder. Aoud, a large place, is one day from Galadima.
+Alamaigo, also a large village or town, is half
+a day from Galadima. Meria, is three days from
+Galadima, and three from Zinder.</p>
+
+<p>According to strict Muslims, it is a sin to
+write Jebel Mekka, "the mountain of Mekka."
+I have lately noticed several instances of superstition.
+A Moor of Fezzan, to whom I gave a small
+portion of camphor, showed me the paper and piece
+of cotton cloth in which he had wrapped it up,
+and swore that during the night the ginns, or evil
+spirits, had eaten it. Many other Moors asked
+me if it was possible to preserve camphor from
+the ginns? They said they knew a man who one
+evening locked up a piece of this substance in
+an iron box, and in the morning it was gone;
+the ginns had eaten it.</p>
+
+<p>I went to see the manufacture of the matting
+which is used for making houses. There were
+thirty slaves at work, all belonging to one man;
+over these were three masters (also slaves), to keep
+<a name="page243" id="page243"></a><span class="pageno">[243]</span>
+them at their task. They certainly did not hurry
+themselves, and very few people hurry themselves
+in this country. These slaves were all Hazna, or
+pagans. The Sarkee of Zinder, besides Tuaricks,
+has many pagan subjects. Some of the blacks,
+I was surprised to see, had breasts as full and
+plump as many women. In other respects these
+pagans do not differ from their Muslim brethren.
+The matting is woven thirty or forty feet long,
+and eight feet broad, and is used to enclose a
+cluster of huts. It is all doubly-woven. I gave
+each of them a small looking-glass, having nothing
+else to dispose of.</p>
+
+<p>According to a Moor here, the land revenues of
+Zinder are divided into three portions; one of which
+goes to the Sarkee, one to the Sheikh, and one to the
+Bashaw. This is the new arrangement. The Sarkee
+makes up his accounts, or fills up his exchequer by
+razzias.</p>
+
+<p><i>27th.</i>&mdash;The weather continues mild, but thick.
+The thermometer now stands at about 60&deg; at sunrise.
+The people are mostly healthy. We do not
+hear of cases of fever, or any other periodical complaints.
+As soon as up, I received a visit from a
+number of old ladies, who came to see the Christian,
+and to bring him a bowl of milk. One of them had
+been the nurse of the Sultan of Zinder; so that I
+was bound to feel duly honoured by this attention.</p>
+
+<p>Everybody now says the Sarkee will return in the
+course of five days, and besides slaves, will bring
+<a name="page244" id="page244"></a><span class="pageno">[244]</span>
+store of cattle and horses, the spoils of the poor
+people. I certainly never heard of a more iniquitous
+expedition, for it is believed he has gone against
+the pacific and loyal subjects of the Sheikh&mdash;not
+tribes or villages under another power.</p>
+
+<p>I went to visit the renegade Jew Ibrahim. I had
+prescribed a regimen for him, to assist in the cure of
+his bad foot, but yet he had done nothing. These
+kind of people are most eager to get prescriptions,
+but very lax in following them. Probably in secret
+they expect a magical cure, and have no confidence
+in any specific less expeditious than the waving of a
+wand. I repeated everything again to him, without
+expecting compliance. It is, however, cheap to
+express condolence in this manner.</p>
+
+<p>The streets are almost deserted; only a few beggars
+and poor people show themselves about. There
+was a fire last night in the market-place, said to be
+the work of an incendiary. The thieves here set
+fire to the huts, and profit in the confusion by carrying
+off the goods and chattels of the alarmed; as,
+indeed, they do in London and other cities of
+Europe. The devices of roguery are marvellously
+monotonous.</p>
+
+<p>In the forenoon I received a visit from the Iman
+of the mosque of Zinder. I asked about the Hazna,
+or pagans, thinking to get a little information; but
+I only learnt what I knew before, that the Hazna
+make their offerings, which consist, of milk and
+ghaseb, under trees. These Hazna are mostly peasants&mdash;little
+<a name="page245" id="page245"></a><span class="pageno">[245]</span>
+farmers; and, like Cain, they offer to
+their deity the fruits of the earth. The Iman said
+their deity was Eblis, or the Devil; an accusation
+commonly bandied between rival creeds. He informed
+me, also, that there are a good number of
+Hazna in both Zinder and the other towns and villages
+of the province. He despaired of their ever
+becoming Muslims, but added, "The great men
+amongst them must become Muslims by order of
+the Sheikh, whilst the poor people are left to do as
+they please, and so furnish a constant supply for the
+home and foreign slave-mart. It is not the interest
+of the Sarkee or the foreign merchants that they
+should become Muslims."</p>
+
+<p>I have heard of the names of two other Tuarick
+tribes, viz. the Ezzaggeran, near Gouber, and the
+Daggera, near Minyo, belonging to the Tuarick
+country of Gurasu. These, apparently, are fractions
+of tribes.</p>
+
+<p>I register the following legend, which seems to
+imply that Zinder, like many of the towns of this
+part of Africa, is of comparatively modern origin.</p>
+
+<p>Twenty years ago there was a fine spring of water
+bubbling from under the largest granite rock of
+Zinder. It was this spring which first attracted a
+population to settle here. Suleiman, father of the
+present Sarkee, one day harangued the people, and
+told them, "This water is not necessary for us; the
+Sheikh of Bornou will hear of this prey, and come
+and take our country from us. Now let us fetch a
+<a name="page246" id="page246"></a><span class="pageno">[246]</span>
+fighi, who shall write a talisman; and we will put
+this talisman upon the mouth of the spring, and
+with it a large stone, and the water of the spring
+shall immediately dry." The people consented to
+this; the charm was written and thrown into the
+spring, and the stone was rolled on to its mouth;
+since which the spring has in reality ceased to flow.</p>
+
+<p>The population of Zinder is now supplied with
+water from three wells, about half an hour distant
+from the spring, now dry. Upon the stone over
+this dried spring are several marks, like the footprints
+of camels and horses. Other people add,
+"the marks of a man when he kneels down to
+pray."</p>
+
+<p>The Shereef Kebir says, that Lousou brought
+a piece of magnetic iron to him, which he sent to
+Haj Beghir in Kuka. Lousou reports that there
+is an abundance of magnetic iron in Aheer. Kohul
+is very cheap in the market of Zinder. In Kanou
+it can be had for ten reals (Fezzan) the cantar;
+and in Yakoba, whence it is brought, for three
+reals. There is a whole rock of kohul in Yakoba,
+the property of the Sultan. The Fellatahs
+rule Yakoba as well as Adamowa. They are still
+very powerful in all this part of Africa. Individual
+Fellatahs have as many as five thousand slaves, who
+work partly for their masters and partly for themselves.</p>
+
+<p>I visited this evening Sidi Bou Beker Weled
+Haj Mohammed Sudani, cousin of the Sheikh of<a name="page247" id="page247"></a><span class="pageno">[247]</span>
+Bornou. He was surrounded with all the objects
+of Bornou luxury,&mdash;carpets, guns, pistols, swords,
+umbrellas, &amp;c., &amp;c. He was busy looking over a
+book containing an explanation of dreams, with a
+vastly-knowing m&acirc;lem. They both made pretensions
+to great learning. In other respects, the cousin
+of the Sheikh was very affable. He said, Bornou
+is the only good country hereabouts. All the rest
+are full of fever or bandits. "There were two
+English," he observed, "came to us (in Bornou),
+and were very well until they went to Soudan,
+where they died." These persons were Oudney and
+Clapperton. I told him I must return by way of
+Wada&iuml;, which he disapproved of. I added, that
+Abbas Pasha would write to Darfour and Wada&iuml;,
+to give me protection. He then said, "Oh, if the
+Sheikh writes to Wada&iuml;, you can go in safety."</p>
+
+<p>This cousin of the Sheikh is a great merchant,
+and comes backwards and forwards to Zinder from
+Kuka.</p>
+
+<p><i>28th.</i>&mdash;The nights are still rather cool, but the
+days not so. The weather continues heavy, with a
+south-east wind. I went to the cousin of the Sheikh
+to administer to him a dose of Epsom salts. I have
+often been surprised to see how greedily these
+people drink off this nauseous medicine, and smack
+their lips as if it was something excessively delicious.</p>
+
+<p>Afterwards I had a visit from a great sister of
+the Sarkee, a woman who is a Sheikha (female<a name="page248" id="page248"></a><span class="pageno">[248]</span>
+Sheikh), and receives the revenues of fifty villages
+for her own private use. She was quite well, but
+begged hard for medicine. At last I gave her some
+tea, which she drank off, after laughing a good
+deal.</p>
+
+<p>A small caravan has arrived from Ghadamez in
+three months, but brought no news, except that
+Aaron Silva is living, and not dead, as reported.
+These merchants make continual inquiries respecting
+the state of the country (i.e. of Soudan),
+and are answered, "<i>Afia, afia.</i>" However, it is
+these same slave-dealing merchants who occasion
+the greater part of the wars and troubles in
+these countries, by their perpetual demand for
+slaves.</p>
+
+<p>I am told that many cantars of indigo can be
+purchased in Soudan (in Kanou), at a price which
+would bring a great profit in Tripoli; but the merchants
+refuse to engage in this commerce. I think
+I shall make a trial of it.</p>
+
+<p>The cousin of the Sheikh recommended me to
+dress in my English clothes on my arrival in
+Kuka. By doing this, he observed, "you will
+please the people, and get many presents." It was
+ever my intention to dress in European clothes in
+Bornou.</p>
+
+<p>The common mode in which a poor person
+salutes a great man, is by kneeling down and throwing
+dust upon the bare head. The degree of
+humility and respect is expressed by the quantity of
+<a name="page249" id="page249"></a><span class="pageno">[249]</span>
+dust thrown! The Sarkee, of course, gets a great
+deal of dust, and every personage under him his
+portion, according to his rank. The beggars throw
+the dust about in clouds. At first, it is painful to see
+this custom.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p><a name="page250" id="page250"></a><span class="pageno">[250]</span></p>
+
+
+
+<h2><a name="chapter15" id="chapter15"></a>CHAPTER XV.</h2>
+
+
+<div class="summary">
+<p>Political News&mdash;Animals of Zinder&mdash;Sleepy City&mdash;District of
+Korgum&mdash;Razzias&mdash;Family of Sheikh Omer of
+Bornou&mdash;Brothers&mdash;Sons&mdash;Sisters&mdash;Daughters&mdash;Viziers&mdash;Kashallas&mdash;Power
+of the Sheikh&mdash;A Cheating Prince&mdash;Old Slave&mdash;Fetishism&mdash;Devil
+in a Tuarick's head&mdash;Kibabs&mdash;Fires&mdash;A Prophecy&mdash;Another
+Version of the Razzia&mdash;Correspondence between Korgum and
+Zinder.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Some political news has arrived to-day by the
+caravan from Gh&acirc;t. According to the gazette of
+the caravan there is peace now between the Porte
+and Musku (Russia), and Musku is to restore to
+the Porte the one hundred countries taken by her,
+as also to pay the expenses of the war. Hostilities
+have broken out between the Emperor of Morocco
+and the French; a Shereef has appeared to recommence
+the holy war, and Muley Abd-Errhaman
+supplies him with the means to fight the French.
+Thus the news is all fashioned to Muslim tastes.
+Also it is said, that in future the red colour in flags
+is always to be uppermost. This seems likewise a
+compliment to the Muslim power in Europe and
+Africa. It is very curious to see how dexterously
+the caravan-newsman has coined his wares.</p>
+
+<p><a name="page251" id="page251"></a><span class="pageno">[251]</span></p>
+
+<p>The shonshona of Gouber is very faint, and consists
+of nine very small cuts.</p>
+
+<p>Gouber is full of Tuaricks, Kilgris, and Iteesan.
+It is said the Sarkee will bring an immense number
+of Hazna, or pagans, with him, on his return from
+the razzia.</p>
+
+<p><i>29th.</i>&mdash;At sunrise, when the thermometer is at
+57&deg;, I feel the cold. I am told that, though Kuka is
+very hot, it is quite free from fever,&mdash;in fact, from all
+periodic epidemics. So we may expect to do well,
+if we escape the fever of Soudan.</p>
+
+<p>The household gods of Zinder are a large species
+of lizard, who make their dwelling-places in the
+walls and roofs of the huts. These are in great numbers.
+Cats are the principal nuisance and the thieves
+of the place&mdash;attacking and devouring fowls. Of rats
+and mice I have observed none. But few small birds
+show themselves. The small filthy vulture is everywhere,
+and a few eagles of a diminutive white species
+are seen amongst them. Some few dogs are kept,
+ill-looking and mongrel in their breed. The domestic
+cattle are horses, asses, oxen, sheep and
+goats, and a few camels.</p>
+
+<p>The life of the male population of Zinder seems
+to pass in dreamy indolence, varied continually by
+the excitement of a razzia. The women divide
+their time between the kitchen and the toilette. No
+amusement is sought, except from drum-beating and
+the attendant dance. Thus time lapses with these
+black citizens. As for the foreign merchants and<a name="page252" id="page252"></a><span class="pageno">[252]</span>
+traders, they, too, drowse away the period of their
+residence in this sleepy city. They sell their
+goods in a lump, on trust, to the Sarkee, and then
+compose themselves to slumber whilst he goes forth
+on a razzia, and brings them slaves in payment. The
+thick, heavy atmosphere&mdash;at any rate during this
+season&mdash;appears to forbid any other kind of life.
+It weighs upon the eyelids, and oppresses the soul.
+Existence passes away in a tropical dream, and death
+finds its prey, as Jupiter found Maia, "betwixt sleep
+and wake," in this poppied climate. Altogether&mdash;as
+far as I can see through my own winking eyes&mdash;Zinder
+is a most unlovely place; by no means desirable
+for a stranger to live in. I manage, however,
+now and then to grasp at, and hold, something like
+definite information. In looking over the itineraries
+of Captain Lyon, I find that the razzias have
+obliterated many towns and villages from the map.
+At any rate, the people now are ignorant of their
+names.</p>
+
+<p>Korgum, half-a-day's distance from Konchai,
+two days from Zinder, is, according to a report come
+in this afternoon, the place or theatre of the present
+razzia. The pretext is&mdash;for I now hear of a pretext&mdash;that
+they will not pay tribute to the Sheikh.
+Korgum consists of three villages and a town, upon
+and under some rocky hills, which are visible during
+three days' march. The district is the residence of a
+sultan. Ten years ago it belonged to Maradee, but
+since then has been wrested from it, though it has<a name="page253" id="page253"></a><span class="pageno">[253]</span>
+ever shown a doubtful allegiance. When the
+former chief fled to Maradee, he stopped to drink
+water at Korgum; but the sultan refused to grant
+him permission. The present Sarkee, on being
+restored to his government,&mdash;though he made
+war upon his brother&mdash;nevertheless determined to
+avenge this barbarous inhospitality. He went and
+attacked the Sultan of Korgum, captured several of
+his people, and cut off, it is pretended, eight hundred
+heads. Not satisfied with this slight vengeance,
+the chief of Zinder seems to have remained anxious
+to pick a quarrel. He next sent for wad&acirc;; in other
+words, for tribute. The Sultan of Korgum forwarded
+some. The Sarkee despatched a message, that what
+he had received was "few." The Sultan replied,
+"Why should I send many?" A pertinent question,
+that seems to have closed the correspondence,
+but not brought the affair to a conclusion.</p>
+
+<p>The Sarkee of Zinder heard that the Sultan of
+Korgum had just gone out on a razzia, united with
+the people of Maradee, and has taken this opportunity
+to make a foray. It is probably with reference to
+some rumour of this expedition that Overweg writes
+to me.</p>
+
+<p>It is said here that the Sarkee never captures all
+the people, but leaves a few to breed for another
+razzia! All the inhabitants of Korgum are Hazna,
+a fact strongly insisted on as a salve for the consciences
+of my Muslim friends. The Sarkee is
+expected back on Friday.</p>
+
+<p><a name="page254" id="page254"></a><span class="pageno">[254]</span></p>
+
+<p>I received a visit from the two Shereefs that
+were at Mourzuk in our time. They left after us;
+had remained three months in Gh&acirc;t, and, of course,
+detest the Tuaricks. I gave them coffee, and each
+a cotton handkerchief.</p>
+
+<p><i>30th.</i>&mdash;The following are given me as the names
+of the family of the Sheikh Omer, of Bornou:&mdash;</p>
+
+
+<p class="centre"><i>Brothers.</i></p>
+
+
+<ul class="inside">
+<li>Abd-Er-Rahman is the eldest brother after the
+Sheikh, and generalissimo of the army; the province
+of Minyo belongs to him.</li>
+<li>Yusuf, a very learned man, a great fighi.</li>
+<li>Othman, also a fighi. His mother is a native of
+Mandara.</li>
+<li>Bou Beker, also a fighi; to him belongs Limbaua
+and many estates.</li>
+<li>Mahmoud, also a fighi; to him belongs Kalulwa
+and many estates.</li>
+<li>Abdullah Manufi; to him belongs Gubobaua,
+consisting of 220 countries or villages.</li>
+<li>(Gubobaua is one day west of Kuka.)</li>
+<li>Bashir: fighi; resides with his brother Abd-Er-Rahman,
+and has a small village.</li>
+<li>Hamed Rufai; by the same mother as Abdullah
+Manufi.</li>
+<li>Mustapha; a great man, having much influence
+in the country: he has many estates.</li>
+<li>Ibrahim; fighi, and has estates.</li>
+<li>Anos.<a name="page255" id="page255"></a><span class="pageno">[255]</span></li>
+<li>Khalil.</li>
+<li>Ahmed.</li>
+<li>Hamed Zaruf, a young brother.</li>
+<li>Hamed Bedawi, a young brother.</li>
+<li>Abd-el-Kader, a young brother.</li>
+<li>Abd-el-Majed, a young brother.</li>
+<li>Mohammed el-Kanemi; young.</li>
+</ul>
+
+
+<p>All these my informant knows. What a family!
+Verily we are in Africa!</p>
+
+
+<p class="centre"><i>Sons.</i></p>
+
+<ul>
+<li>Bou Beker, aged about fifteen years.</li>
+<li>Ibraim.</li>
+<li>Hashemi.</li>
+<li>Kasem.</li>
+<li>Tahir.</li>
+<li>Taib.</li>
+<li>Rufai.</li>
+<li>Abdallah.</li>
+<li>Mohammed Lamin (name of his grandfather).</li>
+<li>Kanami.</li>
+</ul>
+
+
+<p>The mother of the Sheikh is called Magera, a
+native of Begarmi.</p>
+
+
+<p class="centre"><i>Sisters of the Sheikh.</i></p>
+
+<ul>
+<li>Nafisa; to her belongs the country of Kumalewa (same mother as Abd-Er-Rahman).</li>
+<li>Maimuna; to her belongs the place of Wameri (same mother as above).</li>
+<li>Aisha; to her belongs Koba.</li>
+<li>Maream.<a name="page256" id="page256"></a><span class="pageno">[256]</span></li>
+<li>Fatema.</li>
+<li>Mabruka.</li>
+<li>Hamsa.</li>
+<li>Alia; to her belongs Hamisah, a village.</li>
+<li>Halima.</li>
+<li>Zainubo; to her belongs Furferrai.</li>
+<li>Mussaud.</li>
+<li>Fadula.</li>
+<li>Rabia.</li>
+<li>Sinnana.</li>
+<li>Mubarka.</li>
+<li>Rihana.</li>
+</ul>
+
+
+<p>These are all he recollects among the number.
+A copious royal family!</p>
+
+
+<p class="centre"><i>Daughters of the Sheikh.</i></p>
+
+<ul>
+<li>Rukaia (married), about twenty years of age; to
+her belongs Balungu.</li>
+<li>Fatima, a young girl.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<p>No doubt there are others. It is curious to
+compare this knot of near relations with the scanty
+families among the Tuaricks. The fertility of the
+human race seems to be as that of the soil on which
+its several tribes are located. Deserts may produce
+conquerors, but the fat lands produce subjects.</p>
+
+<p>I may now add a further list, obtained at the same
+time as the above.</p>
+
+<p>The great vizier (or prime minister) is Haj
+Beshir; but there are other viziers of more or less
+power:&mdash;Shadeli; Ibrahim Wadai; Rufai (cousin
+<a name="page257" id="page257"></a><span class="pageno">[257]</span>
+of the Sheikh); Hamza, and Mala Ibrahim. These
+form the council of the Sheikh.</p>
+
+<p>The chief kady is Kady Mohammed, and another
+kady of influence is named Haj Mohammed
+Aba.</p>
+
+<p>The principal slaves (that is to say, the principal
+favourites in these despotic countries) are Kashalla
+Belal and Kashalla Ali. The word Kashalla corresponds
+to the title Bey. The brother of Abd-el-Galeel,
+lately killed, is living at Kuka, and is called
+Sheikh Ghait. There is also there a brother of the
+ancient sheikh killed in Fezzan, called Sheikh Omer,
+uncle of the above.</p>
+
+<p>According to my informant, the power of the
+Sheikh has immensely increased since the days of the
+first expedition. The Sheikh has now more than
+100,000 cavalry, and a great quantity of muskets.
+Certainly I have ocular proof that Zinder, an important
+province, has been added to the territories
+of this most powerful prince. I may as well mention,
+that my authority is Omer Wardi. His father,
+Mohammed Wardi, went with Clapperton to Sakkatou.</p>
+
+<p>The Sheikh, according to this seemingly well-informed
+person, is paramount sovereign of Begarmi
+and Mandara,&mdash;these states paying each a tribute
+yearly of one thousand slaves, to which Mandara
+adds fifty eunuchs,&mdash;a most costly contribution.
+This seems to be the country where eunuchs are
+made in these parts.</p>
+
+<p><a name="page258" id="page258"></a><span class="pageno">[258]</span></p>
+
+<p>Lagun is also under the Sheikh, and has become
+a province of Bornou.</p>
+
+<p>In this country, it is said, there are pieces of
+cannon. Also, there is another country, Kussuri,
+four days south of Begarmi, now united to the
+Sheikh's territories; and besides, Maffatai, four days
+south-east from Kuka (a country of a sultan).</p>
+
+<p>Dikua, two days south from Kuka; a province with
+a powerful sultan, who has the power of life and death.</p>
+
+<p>Kulli, one day west of Dikua; Blad-es-Sultan.</p>
+
+<p>En-Gala, two days south of Kuka, country of a
+sultan; belonging to Yusuf, brother of the Sheikh.</p>
+
+<p>I went to see the renegade Jew; he was busy in
+a quarrel with a servant of Lousou, to whom he had
+given eight slaves to take to Gh&acirc;t, to be sold on his
+account. Lousou had sold the slaves, and rendered
+no account to the renegade&mdash;a most unprincely proceeding,
+to say the least of it; if, indeed, it would
+not be more African to say princely proceeding: for
+there seems no vice, whether violent or mean, which
+is not exaggerated by the holders of power in these
+parts.</p>
+
+<p>The souk is almost deserted to-day, on account of
+the Sarkee being absent. I passed the slave-stalls,
+and saw another poor old woman for sale, upwards
+of fourscore years of age. The slave-merchants
+offered her for four thousand wad&acirc;s, about eight
+shillings. People purchase these poor old creatures
+that they may fetch wood and water, even until their
+strength fails them and they faint by the way.</p>
+
+<p><a name="page259" id="page259"></a><span class="pageno">[259]</span></p>
+
+<p>I made other inquiries about the Hazna of Zinder.
+It seems the Sarkee himself is still half pagan,
+for at the beginning of every year he proceeds with
+his officers to a tree, the ancient god of paganism,
+and there distributes two goffas of wad&acirc; (about
+100,000), three bullocks and sheep, and ghaseb, to
+the poor. These things are really offered to the
+deities of his ancestors, though the poor of the
+country get the benefit of them. There are four or
+five trees of this description, at which such annual
+offerings are made; but there is only one Tree of
+Death where malefactors are executed, the one mentioned
+in a former page.<a name="anchor17" id="anchor17"></a><a href="#footnote17"
+class="fnanchor">[17]</a> The Muslim converts of
+Soudan find the Ramadhan excessively burdensome,
+as well as many other rites of Islamism, and for this
+reason the greater part of the population of Soudan,
+who profess Mohammedanism, are still pagans in
+heart. It is vain to expect a nation to pass from loose
+to ascetic practices without some moral motive,
+such as that which sustained the Muslims at their
+first brilliant start in the world.</p>
+
+<p>A Tuarick came this morning and said the
+devil was in his head, and that he wanted some
+medicine to drive him out. I gave him an emetic
+of tartarised antimony, which I hope served his
+purpose.</p>
+
+<p>N.B. The news of the Sarkee having "eaten up"
+four countries of Korgum is confirmed to-day.</p>
+
+<p><a name="page260" id="page260"></a><span class="pageno">[260]</span></p>
+
+<p>The preparation of kibabs is quite a science here.
+The kibab cook makes a conical hillock of dust and
+ashes, flattened on the top. The edge of this mound he
+plants with sticks, on which is skewered a number
+of little bits of meat: then a fire is kindled between
+this circular forest, and the sticks are twisted round
+from time to time, so that every part may be well
+roasted. To us these kibabs are cheap enough,
+five or six cowries a stick.</p>
+
+<p>The wall of Zinder has no gates, only openings.
+I went to the garden of the Shereef. The vegetation
+does not look very flourishing in this season.
+The Shereef has planted some horse-beans; "the
+only beans of the kind," says the gardener, "in all
+the territories of Bornou."</p>
+
+<p><i>31st.</i>&mdash;The weather is increasingly cool; therm.
+at sunrise, 50&deg;. The atmosphere of Zinder never
+clears up. I was awakened this morning, before
+daylight, by the cries of "Fire!" A fire of huts was
+raging close upon us. This is the third accident
+of this kind which has taken place during the
+sixteen days we have been here. The people take
+them, as a matter of course, with Californian indifference,
+and it is likely that there are two or three
+fires every ten days.</p>
+
+<p>A merchant from Kanou (native of Tunis)
+called to see me. He says the English (Americans)
+now bring calicoes, powder, dollars, rum,
+wad&acirc;s, guns, and many other things, to Niffee,
+which afterwards are sent up to Kanou. The slave-trade,
+<a name="page261" id="page261"></a><span class="pageno">[261]</span>
+therefore, must thrive here; and we get the
+credit of it, because the ruffians by whom it is
+carried on speak our language.</p>
+
+<p>A great fighi called also to-day to explain any
+dreams which I might require the interpretation of,
+bringing with him his Tifsir El-Helam. I told
+him that last night I dreamt I saw "two persons
+fall to the ground upon (from?) the boughs of a
+tree." He searched his book and produced a
+passage, the pith of which was, that anything which
+I undertake will not be accomplished. Very
+agreeable information! I thought we had had bad
+news enough. The passage made to apply prophetically
+to me ran literally as follows:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>"And whosoever sees (in dreams) a tree fall,
+or any thing fall from it,&mdash;then will not accomplish
+itself the thing which is between the man who thus
+dreams."<a name="anchor18" id="anchor18"></a><a href="#footnote18" class="fnanchor">[18]</a></p>
+
+<p>I hired to-day Mohammed Ben Amud Bou
+Saad, at a salary of ten reals of Fezzan a month.</p>
+
+<p>I have heard another version of the plan and
+cause of the present razzia of the Sultan of Zinder.
+"Our own correspondents" cannot be more versatile
+in finding out rumours than the gossips of
+Zinder. It is now said that the Sultan of Korgum
+wrote to the Sarkee of Zinder, and asked him if he
+should make a razzia on or with Maradee.<a name="page262" id="page262"></a><span class="pageno">[262]</span></p>
+
+<p>The Sarkee said, "Go." But as soon as the news
+came that the sultan was gone, this prince, in whom
+that other put his trust, immediately set out to
+make a razzia on the country deserted by its sultan.</p>
+
+<p>"<i>Compos!</i>" cried my Moorish informant; and
+certainly it was a clever negro trick. It is difficult
+to know whom to pity or condemn in this iniquitous
+affair. We may be certain, however, that
+the poor women and children, the principal sufferers
+by the razzias, are guiltless in these transactions;
+and we may, without fear, bestow our
+sympathies upon them. At the same time it is
+allowable to admire the profound secrecy with
+which the Sarkee planned his razzia. Not a soul
+in Zinder, besides himself, knew where he was
+going. The general opinion was to Daura, which
+affords scope for a thousand razzias.</p>
+
+<p>The correspondence which I have mentioned
+between the vassals of Korgum and Zinder illustrates
+the abominable system on which the Sheikh
+of Bornou permits his provinces to be governed.
+Really it is difficult to compare the condition of
+this extraordinary region to anything but a forest,
+through which lions and tigers range to devour
+the weaker and more timid beasts&mdash;to which they
+grant intervals of repose during the digestion of
+their meals.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="footnote17" id="footnote17"></a><a href="#anchor17">[17]</a> See pp.
+<a href="#page211">211</a> and <a href="#page218">218</a>. Probably the second Tree of Death described
+was in reality only a fetish tree.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="footnote18" id="footnote18"></a><a href="#anchor18">[18]</a> The
+unhappy event which soon after this interview occurred,
+no doubt confirmed the belief of the natives in the powers of this
+great fighi.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p><a name="page263" id="page263"></a><span class="pageno">[263]</span></p>
+
+
+
+<h2><a name="chapter16" id="chapter16"></a>CHAPTER XVI.</h2>
+
+<div class="summary">
+<p>Sheikh of Bornou&mdash;Arab Women&mdash;News from the Razzia&mdash;Procession
+of newly-caught Slaves&mdash;Entrance of the Sarkee&mdash;Chained
+Slaves&mdash;My Servant at the Razzia&mdash;Audacity of Bornou
+Slaves&mdash;Korgum&mdash;Konchai&mdash;Product of the Razzia&mdash;Ghadamsee
+Merchants&mdash;Slave-trade&mdash;Incident at Korgum&mdash;State of Kanou&mdash;A
+Hue and Cry&mdash;Black Character&mdash;Vegetables at
+Zinder&mdash;Minstrel&mdash;Medi&mdash;Gardens&mdash;Ladies&mdash;Fanaticism&mdash;Americans at
+Niffee&mdash;Rich People&mdash;Tuaricks Sick&mdash;Morals&mdash;Dread of the
+Sarkee&mdash;Fashions.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><i>Feb. 1st.</i>&mdash;It is said that we shall leave this
+for Kuka on Monday next, whether the Sultan
+of Zinder returns from his razzia or not. It certainly
+is a shame that I should be kept here waiting
+the pleasure of a fellow gone to heat up for slaves
+to pay his debts.</p>
+
+<p>The merchants from Kanou represent the power
+of the Fellatahs as very strong, if not increasing.
+From Sakkatou to Kanou, and Kanou to Niffee,
+Yakoba, and Adamaua, everywhere along these lines
+of towns and populous districts, are found Fellatah
+chiefs or sultans. Bornou is, however, now much
+stronger than during the time of the first expedition.
+The Sheikh has two thousand muskets; so says the
+Shereef Kebir; whilst in the time of Denham he
+had only fifty. Certainly two thousand muskets is<a name="page264" id="page264"></a><span class="pageno">[264]</span>
+a progress beyond fifty. The Asbenouee Tuaricks
+carried away some half-dozen Arab women when
+they slaughtered the Walad Suleiman. One of
+these women has been seen, and the Sheikh and
+the Shereef Kebir are trying to get her back. The
+Sheikh has sent word that all the Arab women
+must be restored to their homes.</p>
+
+<p>The Shereef Kebir says the powder of this
+country is all bad, but that Haj Beshir and the
+Sheikh get English or American powder from
+Niffee. Leaden bullets are scarce; they use zinc
+bullets: but these will not go far, resisting the force
+of the powder; nor will they penetrate deep when
+they hit a person. Nitre is found at a place one
+hour from Zinder, called Kankandi.</p>
+
+<p>It is supposed that the Sarkee, not having found
+slaves enough in Korgum, has gone somewhere
+else. The Shereef Kebir would scarcely mention
+the subject of the razzia to me for shame. At
+length a Moor present said, "Fish eats up fish, so
+it is with the Sarkee." This brought forth a laugh,
+and seemed to be thought a sufficient salve for all
+their consciences.</p>
+
+<p>A cry was raised early this morning, "The
+Sarkee is coming!" Every one went out eagerly
+to learn the truth. It turned out that a string of
+captives, fruits of the razzia,<a name="anchor19" id="anchor19"></a><a href="#footnote19"
+class="fnanchor">[19]</a> was coming in.<a name="page265" id="page265"></a><span class="pageno">[265]</span>
+There cannot be in the world&mdash;there cannot be in
+the whole world&mdash;a more appalling spectacle than
+this. My head swam as I gazed. A single horseman
+rode first, showing the way, and the wretched
+captives followed him as if they had been used to
+this condition all their lives. Here were naked
+little boys running alone, perhaps thinking themselves
+upon a holiday; near at hand dragged mothers
+with babes at their breasts; girls of various
+ages, some almost ripened into womanhood, others
+still infantine in form and appearance; old men
+bent two-double with age, their trembling chins
+verging towards the ground, their poor old heads
+covered with white wool; aged women tottering
+along, leaning upon long staffs, mere living skeletons;&mdash;such
+was the miscellaneous crowd that came
+first; and then followed the stout young men, ironed
+neck to neck! This was the first instalment of the
+black bullion of Central Africa; and as the wretched
+procession huddled through the gateways into the
+town the creditors of the Sarkee looked gloatingly
+on through their lazy eyes, and calculated on speedy
+payment.</p>
+
+<p>In the afternoon I was informed that the Sarkee
+was really about to enter the town.</p>
+
+<p>Expecting to see other captives, and anxious to
+be an eye-witness to all these atrocities attendant on
+the razzia, I went to see him pass with his cavalry.
+After waiting ten minutes, there rode up single
+cavaliers, then lines of horsemen, all galloping towards
+<a name="page266" id="page266"></a><span class="pageno">[266]</span>
+the castle-gates to show the people their
+equestrian skill; then came a mass of cavalry,
+about fifty, with a drum beating, and in the midst
+of these was the sultan. There was nothing very
+striking in this cavalcade; a few cavaliers had on a
+curious sort of helmet, made of brass, with a kind
+of horn standing out from the crown; others wore a
+wadding of woollen stuff, a sort of thin mattrass, in
+imitation of a coat of mail. Its object is to turn
+the points of the poisoned arrows. The cavaliers
+thus dressed form the body-guard of the Sarkee.
+Amongst these troops were some Bornou horsemen,
+who rode with more skill than the Zinder people.
+The best cavaliers resembled as much as possible the
+Arab cavaliers of the north. There were no captives
+with these horsemen; the slaves had only come in to
+the number, it was said, of some two or three thousand
+during the day. Although I wished to see them, I was,
+nevertheless, spared a repetition of the misery and
+indignation which the sight in the morning produced
+in my mind. I have been told positively that
+the poor old creatures brought in with the other
+captives will not fetch a shilling a-head in the slave-market.
+It is, therefore, a refinement of cruelty
+not to let them die in their native homes,&mdash;to tear
+them away to a foreign soil, and subject them to
+the fatigues of the journey, and the insults of a rude
+populace, and ruder and crueller slave-dealers.
+Many die on the road during the two or three days'
+march.</p>
+
+<p><a name="page267" id="page267"></a><span class="pageno">[267]</span></p>
+
+<p>It is exceedingly painful to live in a place like
+Zinder, where almost every householder has a
+chained slave. The poor fellows (men and boys)
+cannot walk, from the manner in which the irons
+are put on, and when they move about are obliged
+to do so in little jumps. These slaves are ironed,
+that they may not run away. There are many
+villages and towns, a few days from Zinder, to
+which they can escape without difficulty, and where
+they are not pursued. It was exceedingly horrifying
+to hear the people of Zinder salute the troops
+of the razzia on their return with the beautiful
+Arabic word, <i>Alberka</i>, "blessing!" Thus is it that
+human beings sometimes ask God for a blessing
+on transactions which must ever be stamped with
+his curse. The Italian bandit also begs the Virgin
+to bless his endeavours. It is evident that nothing
+but the strong arm of power and conquest will
+ever root out the curse of slavery from Africa.</p>
+
+<p>The slave whom Haj Beshir sent from Kuka to
+Zinder, to accompany me to Kuka, went with the
+Sarkee, and took one of my servants with him. I
+did not know anything about it until they were
+gone. But this evening, on my return from seeing
+the Sarkee, I found a woman and child, a boy and
+a young man, tied together, lying not far from my
+hut, in the enclosure where we are residing. I
+was excessively indignant at this conduct of Haj
+Beshir's slave, although certainly done in ignorance.
+These captives were the fruits of the part he took
+<a name="page268" id="page268"></a><span class="pageno">[268]</span>
+in the expedition. I have not made up my mind
+whether I will go to Kuka with this fellow, for
+it is not the first time he has shown something like
+an insolent behaviour. As to my servant, I had
+already discharged him, but the Shereef Kebir
+persuaded me to let him go with the boat to Kuka,
+as he knew how to place it on the camels better
+than the other servants. I scolded him well for
+going with the razzia, because he himself was once
+in bondage, and had returned free under our protection.
+But I fear my words will have little
+effect; for in Zinder, at least, the great concern
+and occupation of the black population is, to go and
+steal their neighbours, and sell them into slavery.
+I repeat again, nothing but foreign conquest by a
+non-slaveholding power will extirpate slavery from
+the soil of Africa.</p>
+
+<p>I read Milton's "Comus" and other portions
+of his poetry, and find it a great relief in drawing
+my mind a little off African subjects. I am sorry
+I did not bring with me a copy of Shakespear.
+I have very few books with me of any kind, and
+fewer maps. I received a visit of fighis from the
+villages around, also from a sister and niece of the
+Sultan of Zinder, and gave them all a bit of sugar
+and sent them off.</p>
+
+<p>Around my house exists a swarm of fighis, who
+can copy charms and a few passages from the
+Koran. I procured some of the <i>bon&acirc; fide</i> specimens
+of their calligraphy. There are four different<a name="page269" id="page269"></a><span class="pageno">[269]</span>
+hands. These fighis are all blacks of pure blood.
+They write sideways.</p>
+
+<p>A courier arrived to-day from Kuka, bringing
+a despatch for the Governor of Zinder, to the effect
+that, in the event of his finding any people of
+Bornou committing misdemeanours of any sort,
+he, the Sultan of Zinder, was at liberty to treat
+them as he chose. I am told that the Bornou
+slaves, as well as the free people of that country,
+when they come to Zinder, have the audacity to
+seize on whomsoever comes in the way, and take
+them and sell them as slaves in the souk. This
+kidnapping is mostly done in the villages around
+Zinder, but even in the city itself it has been ventured;
+and the Sultan has hitherto been afraid to
+arrest these Bornouese miscreants. What a glimpse
+into the state of the empire of Bornou do such facts
+afford!</p>
+
+<p><i>2d.</i>&mdash;This morning the slave of Haj Beshir
+came to declare that the slaves which he brought
+here yesterday were not his booty, but belonged
+to another person, a volunteer. There is no getting
+at the truth in these countries. The theatre of the
+late razzia is westwards from Zinder about two
+days. Korgum is one day from Tesaoua. Konchai
+is a neighbouring country, about four hours from
+Korgum. The Sarkee attacked four villages of
+Korgum, but got few slaves. The people, though
+without their sultan, defended themselves well
+with their renowned arrows, and when they could<a name="page270" id="page270"></a><span class="pageno">[270]</span>
+hold out no longer they ascended the rocks and
+escaped. The wounds of arrows, though poisoned,
+are not always fatal, and often cured by the remedies
+known in these countries.</p>
+
+<p>The villages of Korgum are called Tangadala
+Agai. Not getting many slaves there, the Sarkee
+attacked two or three villages of Konchai. This
+province contains some three hundred villages.
+Ganua and Tanbanas were the places razzied.
+From the latter place six hundred slaves were
+obtained, nearly half of the whole captured. The
+total product of the razzia is about fifteen hundred;
+a thousand for the Sultan's share, and five hundred
+for the troops and volunteers. It is said this
+thousand will not suffice to pay the Sultan's debts,
+and it was on account of the fewness of slaves the
+Sarkee was obliged to bring with him the halt, the
+blind, the maimed, and the aged, stooping to the
+earth with age. Besides human beings, the Sarkee
+captured eight hundred and thirty bullocks, and
+flocks of sheep; seven hundred bullocks he gave to
+the troops and volunteers, and one hundred and
+thirty have been reserved for himself. Four men
+were killed, and one hundred horses, belonging to
+Zinder; but the enemy are said to have lost a good
+number. All the villages made resistance but one,
+where the poor people were busy cooking their
+suppers; when the Sarkee and his famished crew
+rushed upon them, seized them, and carried them
+into captivity. This, at any rate, is the report; but,
+<a name="page271" id="page271"></a><span class="pageno">[271]</span>
+according to others, the results of the expedition are
+much less important.</p>
+
+<p>All the country razzied is nominally subject to
+the Sheikh of Bornou, so that this Sarkee of Zinder
+has been pillaging the Bornou territories, and carrying
+off their inhabitants, who are subjects of the
+Sheikh, to raise money to pay his debts. A certain
+enmity exists, it is said, between Konchai and
+Zinder, which formerly was subject to the province
+of Konchai.</p>
+
+<p>According to one authority, the booty of the razzia
+is greatly reduced, even to more than half of what
+was reported. The share of the Sarkee is four hundred
+slaves, and one hundred and twenty slaves he gave
+to his troops. Seven places were attacked, but the
+people had news of the movements of the Sarkee,
+and were prepared to receive him: they shot their
+arrows through their stockades, thick and fast, upon
+the Sarkee and his people, and then retired to the
+rocks and behind the trees, which are abundant.
+Only one country was fairly razzied. Also but few
+beasts were taken, the people having secured all their
+cattle and flocks beforehand. The Sarkee got about
+one hundred bullocks. He took with him no less than
+two thousand horse, a collection from all the petty
+governments in the surrounding provinces, with
+their chiefs. All these forces did little more than
+beat the air. The capture of five hundred slaves
+will not pay the expenses of the expedition, but<a name="page272" id="page272"></a><span class="pageno">[272]</span>
+these people never sit down to count the cost.
+Their reckoning-days are few and far between.</p>
+
+<p>There is a report here that the Sultans of
+Maradee, Gouber, Korgum, and Tesaoua, have all
+gone together on a razzia to the territory of Sakkatou,
+and a few of the people of Zinder have gone
+with them; and this is the reason given for horses
+being now scarce in Zinder.</p>
+
+<p>Haj Beshir has sent a message from Kuka, that
+I am to quicken my steps thitherward. The kafila
+from Mourzuk has arrived, and many Arabs from
+the north.</p>
+
+<p>Of gubaga, called by the people of Zinder, ferri,
+four dra&acirc;s are sold in Zinder for one hundred wad&acirc;s,
+about twopence. This native cotton cloth, when
+doubled, makes tents impervious to the summer rain.</p>
+
+<p>There are about fifty Ghadamsee merchants in
+Kanou and Boushi, capital of Yakoba, the principal
+of whom (here described as Maidukia) are:&mdash;</p>
+
+<ul>
+<li>Haj Mohammed Bel Kasem.</li>
+<li>Haj Tahir.</li>
+<li>Mairimi.</li>
+<li>Haj Mohammed Ben Habsa.</li>
+<li>Hemed Basidi.</li>
+<li>Kasem Ben Haiba.</li>
+<li>Haj Ali.</li>
+<li>Mohammed Makoren.</li>
+<li>Haj Hoda.</li>
+<li>Haj Abdullah.</li>
+</ul>
+
+
+<p><a name="page273" id="page273"></a><span class="pageno">[273]</span></p>
+
+<p>There are some merchants of consequence from
+Fezzan, viz. Basha Ben Haloum, Mohammed es-Salah,
+the agent of Gagliuffi, Sidi Ali, and Fighi
+Hamit, who always goes to Goujah (<i>blad</i> of the
+gour-nuts). This country of the gour is distant
+three months' travelling, making small stages south-west
+by west. Morocco, Tuat, and the countries of
+the west, are scarcely represented by merchants in
+Kanou&mdash;there being one or two of them at most.
+Nor are there any from Egypt or the East.</p>
+
+<p>According to my informant, a small merchant,
+but well acquainted with these parts, not more than
+one hundred and fifty or two hundred slaves pass
+through or from Zinder annually to the north, and
+about five or six hundred go by the route of Tesaoua
+to the north, i.e. Tripoli, and a few to Souf. After
+all, the great slave-market is Central Africa
+itself.</p>
+
+<p>An affecting incident is told of the people of
+Korgum during the late razzia. The Sultan of
+Zinder besieged one town four days, and would not
+allow the people to drink water. They then sent
+word that "they did not know either God, or the
+Prophet Mahommed, or the Sheikh of Bornou, only
+him, Sarkee Ibrahim of Zinder, as their ruler and
+lord, and prayed him to give them water and
+peace." The Sarkee replied, "When my brother fled
+to you, you also would not allow him to drink, nor
+will I now permit you; therefore surrender into our
+hands." The people of the town held out these four
+<a name="page274" id="page274"></a><span class="pageno">[274]</span>
+days, and then during a night they all fled to the
+rocks and escaped.</p>
+
+<p>There are but few places to make razzias upon
+around Zinder, except on the Sheikh's provinces,
+unless the Sarkee will go to Maradee, and there he is
+now in friendship, or else is afraid to move in that
+direction. In the account of the booty, it is to be
+understood that all of it was not brought to Zinder,
+some having been distributed amongst the troops
+and volunteers of the rest of the province. I am
+told that the greater part of the slaves will be sent
+to Kanou for sale. It has already been observed,
+that only a few slaves go to the north in comparison
+with the numbers captured. The bulk of the slaves
+of the razzias are employed as serfs on the soil, or
+servants in the town. In Kanou, a rich man has
+three or four thousand slaves; these are permitted
+to work on their own account, and they pay him
+as their lord and master a certain number of
+cowries every month: some bring one hundred,
+some three hundred or six hundred, or as low as
+fifty cowries a-month. On the accumulation of
+these various monthly payments of the poor slaves
+the great man subsists, and is rich and powerful in
+the country. This system prevails in all the Fellatah
+districts.</p>
+
+<p>At dusk, there was a hue and cry near our house.
+I ran out to see what it was: the noise and stir was
+nothing less than an attempt of a slave to escape.
+The poor fellow was surrounded by a mass of men<a name="page275" id="page275"></a><span class="pageno">[275]</span>
+and boys, all anxious to seize him and deliver him
+to his master, to obtain the reward.</p>
+
+<p>My sympathies certainly begin to cool when I
+see the conduct of these blacks to one another. The
+blacks are, in truth, the real active men-stealers,
+though incited thereto frequently by the slave-merchants
+of the north and south. It must be
+confessed, that if there were no white men from the
+north or south to purchase the supply of slaves
+required out of Africa, slavery would still flourish,
+though it might be often in a mitigated form; and
+this brings me to the reiteration of my opinion,
+that only foreign conquest by a power like Great
+Britain or France can really extirpate slavery from
+Africa.</p>
+
+<p><i>3d.</i>&mdash;The sky never gets clear here till late at
+night. I read several pieces of Milton's poetry.
+I went to the gardens to see the wells: people
+fetch water from the wells of the gardens, where
+the supply is sufficiently abundant. I observed
+in the gardens the henna plant, the cotton plant,
+the indigo plant, and the tobacco plant. All
+these appear to be commonly cultivated in the
+gardens of Zinder. There are scarcely any other
+vegetables but onions, and beans, and tomatas;
+but the people cultivate a variety of small herbs, for
+making the sauce of their bazeens and other flour-puddings.
+The castor-oil tree is found in the town
+and in the hedges of the gardens in abundance.</p>
+
+<p>A Tuarick woman was brought here to-day for<a name="page276" id="page276"></a><span class="pageno">[276]</span>
+me to cure. She had been in an ailing, wasting
+state, for the last four years; the husband said that
+the devil had touched his wife, and reduced her to
+this state. Another woman was brought with an
+immense wen upon her abdomen. I have given
+away nearly all my Epsom salts, and now supply
+emetics. It is necessary to purge these people immediately,
+in a few hours, or they think you do
+nothing for them, or will not or cannot do them
+any good. Many Tuaricks come from the open
+country. We have also frequent cases of ophthalmia,
+mostly from the villages around.</p>
+
+<p>This evening I was charmed by the vocal sounds
+of a strolling minstrel, attended by two drummers
+with small drums, called <i>kuru</i>, and a chorus of
+singing-girls collected from the neighbourhood.
+The chorus-singers sang like charity-school girls at
+church. Altogether the singing was more pleasing
+than the monotonous, plaintive sounds of the Arabs.</p>
+
+<p>It seems difficult to get off. Everybody is making
+preparations for our journey, from the Sultan to
+the lowest slave sent from Kuka to assist in the
+transport of the boat and our baggage, and yet
+nothing is done!</p>
+
+<p>I parted with my new acquaintance, Medi, to-day,
+a soldier and slave of the Sarkee. He has
+been occasionally my cicerone in Zinder. He had
+been captured from a child, and is now past middle
+age, and knows little of the loss of home. He was
+a friendly chap, and gave me all the information he
+<a name="page277" id="page277"></a><span class="pageno">[277]</span>
+could make me understand in Soudanee and Bornouee.</p>
+
+<p>The evening was warm; a most pestilential sort
+of mist usually covers the ground at dark. After
+an hour or so it clears off&mdash;a few meteors now and
+then.</p>
+
+<p><i>4th, Dies non.</i>&mdash;It is said we shall probably leave
+this to-morrow. Read Milton all day. Weather
+sultry hot; did not go out. Thermometer in the
+evening, at dark, 80&deg;.</p>
+
+<p><i>5th.</i>&mdash;I had a visit from a number of Tuarick
+ladies from the villages around, all of whom put
+their hands to their stomachs, and pretended they
+were mighty ill. I gave them all round a cup of
+tea. The renegade Jew came this morning, and
+gave me a list of all the things sold in the market
+of Kanou.</p>
+
+<p>I went in the afternoon to see the Ka&iuml;d of Haj
+Beshir of Kuka, called Abd-el-kerim. He had a
+female slave afflicted with the leprosy, and sent for
+me to come and see her. He gave me some
+gour-nuts, and I found him a friendly man.
+Denham represents the Bornou people of his time
+as very fanatical. At present I have seen nothing
+of this. But we are in a province where there are
+many Hazna, or pagans; and the people of Zinder
+are but lukewarm Muslims. I have yet had no
+instance of fanaticism, either from people of Kuka
+or from residents here.</p>
+
+<p>I was amused by the relation of Haj Mohammed<a name="page278" id="page278"></a><span class="pageno">[278]</span>
+Ben Welid respecting his intercourse with an
+American vessel at Niffee.<a name="anchor20" id="anchor20"></a><a href="#footnote20"
+class="fnanchor">[20]</a> He first describes the
+vessel as very large; the sides being ascended by a
+ladder. Then these Americans (English they were
+called) had a black interpreter, who spoke Arabic.
+Through this black fellow they inquired of the man
+of Ghadamez from whence he came. He replied,
+"Ghadamez,"&mdash;this they did not know; then "Trablous,"&mdash;this
+they did not know; then "Tunis,"&mdash;nor
+was this place known; and, finally, "Malta."
+"Ah!" they cried, "we have heard of this place."
+They then asked him what he traded in, and gave
+him some tobacco and rum. They were full of
+goods of every description,&mdash;calicoes, powder, shot,
+rum, tobacco, dollars, and <i>wad&acirc; yaser</i> (a great
+quantity of cowries), &amp;c.</p>
+
+<p>My room has been an hospital all this day,
+full of the sick, with various disorders. They
+come mostly from the villages around Zinder,
+and amongst them are a great number of Tuaricks,
+these people being more exposed to the
+weather, or more delicate, or more fanciful in
+their complaints. These poor devils all bring something&mdash;a
+little cheese, or a little milk; and I have
+received more of these trifling presents from them
+during the twenty days that I have been in Zinder,
+than in all the five or six months which I spent in
+their country. The reason may be, that in Asben<a name="page279" id="page279"></a><span class="pageno">[279]</span>
+they have nothing (or next to nothing), whilst here
+reigns abundance. Our servants say now that the
+Tuaricks always bring something, and the townspeople
+of Zinder nothing. Some of the Tuaricks
+are not sick; they come only to see the Christian,
+and stop, and look, and stare, and watch the minutest
+action of the said Christian,&mdash;more especially the
+women, who would never leave my room if I were
+not to drive them away.</p>
+
+<p><i>6th.</i>&mdash;I am told by a well-informed person, that
+morals are much relaxed here. To-day a black man
+came from the country to beg for his wife, who had
+been taken away from him and given to a Moor,
+who was about to send her to the coast for sale.
+She is to be restored to the man in exchange for
+two young girls, whom he has fetched from the
+country (probably kidnapped). The woman, however,
+has been given over, in the first place, to
+Shroma, the commander-in-chief; and after she
+has passed two or three days with him, she will be
+allowed to return to her husband. This woman was
+first kidnapped by the Sultan, and belonged to
+the Sheikh's dominions, to a village near Zinder,
+and was taken in a razzia. The Sultan gave or sold
+her to the Moor. This is a sample of the transactions
+daily going on there. I am also assured that
+the three hundred wives of the Sarkee himself are
+at almost everybody's disposal, two or three gour-nuts
+being the utmost which these ladies ask. But
+this is not all; for these women, wives of the Sultan,
+<a name="page280" id="page280"></a><span class="pageno">[280]</span>
+have intrigues with the slaves of the Sultan, with
+the brothers of the Sultan, and even with the sons
+of the Sultan. Whatever may be said of the Tuaricks
+and their freebooting, they do not practise
+such revolting immoralities as these.</p>
+
+<p>The Sarkee of Zinder is feared both by Fellatahs
+and Tuaricks, especially on account of the barbarous
+nature of his executions, which I have described.
+It may be supposed that a better system, both of
+government and morality, is practised in Kuka, and
+the more connected Bornou provinces.</p>
+
+<p>A man came to me to beg or buy some large
+beads for his wife; he said his wife was very anxious
+for them, to wear round her loins. Various are the
+caprices of fashion. Europeans show their finery,
+but here children and women wear beads round
+their loins under their clothes.</p>
+
+<p>It is now said we shall leave Zinder positively
+on Saturday next.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="footnote19" id="footnote19"></a><a href="#anchor19">[19]</a> Mr.
+Richardson interchanges the words <i>razzia</i> and <i>gazia</i>; the
+latter, I imagine, is the correct word, but the former is better known
+to European readers.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="footnote20" id="footnote20"></a><a href="#anchor20">[20]</a> See
+<a href="#appendix">the Appendix</a>. This Haj appears to have given some useful
+information to Mr. Richardson.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p><a name="page281" id="page281"></a><span class="pageno">[281]</span></p>
+
+
+
+<h2><a name="chapter17" id="chapter17"></a>CHAPTER XVII.</h2>
+
+<div class="summary">
+<p>News from Tesaoua&mdash;Razzia on Sakkatou&mdash;Laziness in Zinder&mdash;The
+Hajah&mdash;Herds of Cattle&mdash;More Tuarick Patients&mdash;Gardens&mdash;My
+Luggage&mdash;Adieu to the Sarkee&mdash;Present from his Highness&mdash;Start
+from Zinder&mdash;Country&mdash;Birds&mdash;Overtake the Kashalla&mdash;Slaves
+for Kanou&mdash;Continue the Journey&mdash;People of Deddegi&mdash;Their
+Timidity&mdash;Horse Exercise&mdash;Cotton&mdash;Strange Birds&mdash;Occupation
+of Men and Women&mdash;State of African Society&mdash;Islamism
+and Paganism&mdash;Character of the Kashalla&mdash;A
+Dogberry&mdash;Guddemuni&mdash;Cultivation&mdash;Beggars&mdash;Dancing Maidens.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>A Shereef has come here to-day from Tesaoua, and
+reports that Overweg left that place for Maradee,
+about eight days since, with a Tuarick of En-Noor.
+The city of Maradee is but an hour from Gonder,
+and is about twice the size of Zinder. The whole
+occupation of these two cities is that of razzia, and
+their subsistence and riches are all derived from this
+source. These places also swarm with Tuaricks,
+Kilgris, Iteesan, and Kailouees, who join the blacks
+of Maradee and Gouber in their slave-hunting expeditions.
+A grand razzia is being perpetrated by the
+united forces of the Sultans of Maradee, Gouber, and
+Korgum, with the assistance of a thousand Tuarick
+horse, on the territories of the Sultan of Sakkatou.
+<a name="page282" id="page282"></a><span class="pageno">[282]</span>
+The cavalry of the marauders consists of some five
+thousand, and there are more than this number on
+foot. My informant says they will go near Kashna,
+perhaps to its very gates. So it seems the Sultan
+of Sakkatou, with all his power and his great cities,
+is unable to check, or apparently even to avenge,
+the depredations committed upon his most important
+provinces. It is said that the product of this
+razzia will be some of the finest slaves in this part
+of Africa, many of them almost white. We are to
+leave here to-morrow. Inshallah! It is too bad to
+be kept so long here, when Haj Beshir has sent
+orders for us to come immediately.</p>
+
+<p><i>7th.</i>&mdash;The morning was cool; thermometer at
+sunrise, 58&deg;. I slept little, being angry at being
+kept here so long. I read Milton to divert my
+mind awhile from African subjects.</p>
+
+<p>There seems to be little industry in Zinder.
+The education of the greater part of the males is to
+fit them for razzias, and this must be considered as
+the principal cause of the unfeeling manner with
+which the blacks hereabouts look upon, their captive
+brethren. These captives are their means of
+livelihood; they live on the products of the razzias,
+and, of course, the superior intellects with which
+they may come in contact countenance all their
+proceedings; for the foreign merchants are equally
+interested with them in their inhuman expeditions.
+Africa is bled from all pores by her own children,
+seconded by the cupidity of strangers.</p>
+
+<p><a name="page283" id="page283"></a><span class="pageno">[283]</span></p>
+
+<p>All the Moors and Arabs whom I conversed with
+extol the power of the Sheikh of Bornou, and represent
+him as the greatest sheikh in Central Africa.
+Nevertheless, the Fellatahs are everywhere, far and
+wide, from Sakkatou to Adamaua, a dominant people,
+though few in number compared with the population
+of the subjected kingdoms.</p>
+
+<p>One of the most remarkable women, perhaps the
+only remarkable woman in Zinder at the present
+moment, is a certain Hajah (i.e. a woman who has
+made the pilgrimage of Mekka). She is a native of
+Fezzan, and is now employed in the household of
+the Sheikh of Bornou. She is excessively free and
+easy with all men folks; and although such a saint,
+her chastity, I am told, does not rate high. She
+returns to Kuka with us&mdash;no great gain to our
+caravan.</p>
+
+<p>Near our enclosure is a long space full of
+bullocks and cows&mdash;some four hundred and fifty.
+These are distributed amongst the whole population
+by ones, twos, and threes. I have seen no herd but
+this, and if this is really the only one, it speaks little
+for the wealth of the people of Zinder. In fact, with
+regard to horses it is much the same,&mdash;the Shereef
+can hardly find me a horse to ride on in the whole
+town.</p>
+
+<p>Apparently, Zinder is a wretchedly poor place.
+All are needy, from the Sarkee downwards, and
+when they get any property it all comes from the
+razzias. The system of living on rapine and man-stealing
+<a name="page284" id="page284"></a><span class="pageno">[284]</span>
+seems to bring its own punishment along
+with it.</p>
+
+<p>A <i>posse</i> of Tuarick patients assailed me very
+early this morning. The Tuaricks, who have more
+intellect than the blacks, let loose their imagination
+to fancy they have all sorts of complaints. Thus I
+have more patients from them than from the people
+of Zinder, and am quite undeceived as to my having
+done with this tribe when I entered the gates of this
+town. There is, however, this difference now, that
+they treat me with the greatest respect, and are very
+quiet, bringing presents instead of demanding presents.</p>
+
+<p>The Tuaricks of Gurasu, I hear, have a bad
+name, and are troublesome to the Sheikh.</p>
+
+<p>I went to the gardens this morning and yesterday
+morning&mdash;it is an immense relief from the enclosure
+of huts in town&mdash;but have not observed anything
+new. I am told that the suburbs of Kanou are full of
+palms. Zinder, if the people were industrious, could
+have its forests of palms, bearing luscious fruit twice
+a-year. But, alas! the excitement of the razzia destroys
+the taste for all rational industry. What bandit
+could ever settle down into a tiller of the ground?</p>
+
+<p><i>8th.</i>&mdash;The people came this morning, in a great
+hurry, to take off the luggage, and afterwards pretended
+that I should go to-morrow, whilst the baggage
+must be forwarded to-day. This arrangement
+I positively refused to comply with, being determined
+to stop no longer.</p>
+
+<p><a name="page285" id="page285"></a><span class="pageno">[285]</span></p>
+
+<p>I went to take leave of the Sarkee. His highness
+had nothing to say, and we as little to him.
+We just shook hands, and that was all. He is not
+very well pleased with his late man-hunt. He still
+owes twenty thousand dollars, which it will require
+a dozen such speculations to pay off. The castle
+outside was besieged with soldiers, all lounging and
+listening to two or three drummers. I am disgusted
+to see so many idle people. The only novelty was
+four or five singing-women, who sung choruses
+inside the walls to a drummer. All the soldiers in
+undress, or not going on razzia, are bare-headed, and
+also nearly all the inhabitants of the town. A few
+persons, mostly women, wear a piece of blue cotton
+cloth over their heads, tied tight, so as to have the
+appearance of a cap. The common sort of women
+go with their breasts bare; others, of higher rank,
+drag up their skirts to cover their breasts; and a
+few add a piece of cotton cloth, which they throw
+over their shoulders like a shawl.</p>
+
+<p>The Sarkee has presented Yusuf with a horse,
+blind with one eye, and not much bigger than a jackass,
+in return for the present Yusuf made to him. In
+fact, this potentate is now as poor as a rat, and has
+nothing to give away. When he has anything, he
+soon parts with it, being generous to prodigality.
+The title Sarkee is used for men of inferior rank,
+and is something like Bey.</p>
+
+<p>I waited till three o'clock, P.M., for my servants,
+and Sa&iuml;d of Haj Beshir, to come and bring the oxen
+<a name="page286" id="page286"></a><span class="pageno">[286]</span>
+for the rest of the baggage&mdash;the boat and the heavy
+baggage left in the morning; and seeing no signs of
+their preparation, I determined to be no longer
+duped by them, and told the servant of Haj Beshir
+that I would start to-day, be the consequence what
+it might. So off I went to the Shereef, and told him
+I must go at once, to follow the Kashalla, who had
+taken away the box in which was the chronometer,
+and I must go to wind it up early in the morning.
+He immediately informed the Sarkee, and asked for
+a soldier. A soldier was forthwith brought, and
+a message from the Sarkee, that the horse which had
+been sent for me to ride upon was a present from his
+highness to me. This is the first present of the kind
+I have received in Africa; and after giving away
+about five hundred pounds sterling of Government
+money I have got in return, at last, a horse worth
+one pound fifteen shillings and fourpence, the current
+value of this country! The Sarkee of Zinder is
+miserably poor, but he was afraid to let me go to
+Kuka, to his master, without giving me a present.</p>
+
+<p>I started from Zinder, riding my "gift horse,"
+about an hour before sunset, and arrived at Dairmummegai,
+a very large village, where the Kashalla
+had pitched tent, after three hours' ride. Our
+course was due east, through a scattered forest of
+dwarf-trees, in which were fluttering about a number
+of strange-looking birds, that reminded me I
+was in a foreign land. One solitary bird excited
+my pity; its form was something like that of a<a name="page287" id="page287"></a><span class="pageno">[287]</span>
+small crane, but, verily, it was most disproportionally
+thin, with very long neck and shanky legs. It
+was wandering about as if it had lost itself in the
+world; and yet a bird losing itself in the world
+is a strange notion! We met a couple of huntsmen,
+on the shoulders of one of whom was coiled a fine
+bleeding gazelle. These huntsmen had only bows
+and arrows, and they had managed to get a gazelle,
+whilst we, with all our matchlocks and muskets, had
+never been able to shoot one of these animals during
+our eight or nine months of passage through the
+desert. The Kashalla was exceedingly glad at my
+arrival, and got ready a bowl of new milk. He is a
+man of some fifty or sixty years of age, black, and
+with Bornou features, speaking a little Arabic.
+The greater part of the Bornou people know a few
+words of this language. The Sheikh sent him to
+bring the boat and our baggage. He is a friendly,
+quiet man, whilst the man sent by Haj Beshir, Sa&iuml;d,
+is an impudent slave, and only thinking of what he
+can get by his journey.</p>
+
+<p>I saw, as I passed through the streets of Zinder
+this morning, a number of slaves chained together,
+going to the market of Kanou; so that this place
+is the great central d&eacute;p&ocirc;t of this merchandise.
+These were some of the fruits of the Sarkee's last
+razzia.</p>
+
+<p><i>9th.</i>&mdash;The morning was cool, and we started early,
+and made six hours and a-quarter in a general south-east
+direction, through a continuation of scattered<a name="page288" id="page288"></a><span class="pageno">[288]</span>
+forests, with open spaces, the wood being
+broken in upon here and there by a scanty ghaseb
+cultivation. Amongst the trees, some rose with
+giant arms and all the characters of tropical vegetation.
+The country was undulating, with ranges of
+low hills. Blocks of granite were scattered on the
+surface of the ground; in the deeper valleys lay
+stagnant water of the last rains, fast drying up; and
+here were water-fowls, waders, and some large,
+strange, black-and-white geese, with necks of
+enormous length.</p>
+
+<p>After three hours and a-quarter we came to the
+considerable village of Deddegi, where, on our appearance,
+all the inhabitants fetching water or
+tending cattle ran away. This I may remark, as
+the first time that the people ran away at our appearance
+amongst them. Hitherto we have always
+had the population pressing upon us for curiosity,
+or to attack and plunder us. Things change. But
+the flight of the people of Deddegi is easily explained.
+We were soon recognised as a Bornou
+caravan, and the Bornouese in coming to Zinder,&mdash;the
+Sheikh's people especially,&mdash;have been in the
+habit of plundering these villages, or carrying off
+the people and their cattle, the former into slavery.
+Recently the Sarkee has complained of this, and the
+Sheikh, to do him justice, has ordered the Sarkee
+to seize any Bornouese committing these misdemeanours,
+and execute what justice he pleases upon
+them. The Sarkee, now, will not be slack to obey<a name="page289" id="page289"></a><span class="pageno">[289]</span>
+his master's commands. Still it is not surprising
+the people ran away from a Bornou caravan.</p>
+
+<p>We encamped at the group of villages called
+Dairmu. My "gift horse" had given me most
+excruciating pain in riding, and I was obliged to
+dismount for half an hour. The saddles are very
+bad, and cut you raw before you are accustomed to
+them. But I must submit to this fatigue, for now I
+must ride horses and put away the camel, which is
+too slow for travelling in Soudan, where water and
+herbage are found for the horses every two or three
+hours.</p>
+
+<p>After I was somewhat recovered, I went to see
+the village, and found all the people working upon
+cotton; some cleaning it, some winding it into balls,
+and others weaving the gubaga, or narrow strips of
+cotton cloth, with which the greater number of the
+population are clothed. A small portion of the
+cotton-twist is dyed with indigo, and with this and
+the undyed a species of check-cotton cloth is
+woven; but all very rude. The Sheikh of the
+place supplied the caravan with bazeen. For myself
+I purchased a couple of fowls, which cost just
+twopence farthing in English money: they were,
+however, small; and I may remark that all fowls
+are small in this country, and most of the domestic
+animals, like horses, sheep, dogs, cats, &amp;c. are
+diminutive when compared to those of Europe.
+The bullocks, however, are of a good size, with
+branching horns. The sheep have no wool, or<a name="page290" id="page290"></a><span class="pageno">[290]</span>
+rather, the wool takes the appearance and substance
+of hair, like that of a dog; and their tails, too, are
+like those of dogs; but, indeed, the Soudan sheep
+are well known. No fruit or vegetables are found
+in these villages: not even onions, common in most
+places. The birds have all a strange appearance.
+I am no naturalist, and wonder when I should
+examine. That filthy species of vulture, the scavenger
+of Zinder, is seen in twos and threes. The
+woods abound in turtle-doves. I gave the Kashalla
+a ring for himself and his female slave, or wife, as it
+may be. Very few men of this sort have wives:
+all their women are slaves. He was greatly pleased
+with the present.</p>
+
+<p><i>10th.</i>&mdash;My thermometer remains behind with
+the baggage at Zinder, expected to-day. Here we
+wait for it, and the rest of the caravan. I oiled
+myself well last night with olive oil, and feel much
+better this morning. During a walk through the
+villages, I observed that two-thirds of the male
+population, as in Zinder, are quite idle, lounging
+about, or stretched at their full length upon the dust
+of the ground. A third find something to do, either
+in working on cotton, or making matting, or in the
+gardens, where tobacco, pepper, cotton, and indigo
+are grown. These are the staple products of the
+gardens in this part of Africa. The women have
+always something to occupy their time, suckling
+their children, fetching water, cooking, or else picking
+cotton. All the males, I imagine, at some<a name="page291" id="page291"></a><span class="pageno">[291]</span>
+seasons of the year, find occupation, when the
+ghaseb is sown and when reaped. But, nevertheless,
+what powerfully solicits the observation of
+the European in looking into these villages is the
+downright livelong idleness of the male population.</p>
+
+<p>We begin, at length, to regard this region merely
+as the nursery-ground of slavery&mdash;of the system
+which takes away the idlers to perform their share
+of the curse pronounced on Adam, that in the sweat
+of his brow he should eat and earn his bread.
+Again it is to be observed, that the wants of these
+people are very few: they live on ghaseb and milk,
+eating little meat; these come to them almost without
+labour. The ground is tilled by burning the
+stubble of the previous year, or by burning the trees
+on new land. The seed is thrown in when the rain
+begins, and nothing more is done till the grain is
+ripe for the sickle, when it is gathered in. It is collected
+under small sheds made of matting, and eaten
+as it is wanted. The cattle are mostly driven to graze
+and to water, and this is all the attention they require.
+The cotton furnishes a scanty clothing,
+deemed sufficient; all the children go naked till
+they are ten years old, or only wear a piece of
+cotton, leather, or a skin round their loins. The
+men of some consequence buy a tobe brought from
+Kanou or Niffee; the women purchase a few beads
+and other ornaments with their fowls or ghaseb.
+The bowls or household utensils are made from<a name="page292" id="page292"></a><span class="pageno">[292]</span>
+gourds, in shape like a cucumber, but straight, with
+a knob at the end; they are slit in two, and thus
+form two spoons, the concave head of the gourd
+serving as the bowl, the other part as the handle.
+These calabashes, some of which are pretty, are
+hung up within the huts as ornaments. On peeping
+into these huts, nothing is seen but these said calabashes,
+except the strings or nets by which they are
+suspended on the sides of the huts. As you enter
+there is always a partition-wall on your right hand,
+and a round entrance at the further end of the hut
+to this part, partitioned off. This space, so divided
+off, is the sleeping-place, where there is a raised
+bench of mud, or a bedstead made of cane or
+wickers. A few utensils for culture, an axe and a
+hoe, may be mentioned, all made by native blacksmiths,
+of the rudest description. Iron is found in
+the native rocks of Soudan, and is not imported.
+The greatest skill of the African blacksmith is,
+alas! shown in forging the manacles for slaves. I
+must mention that many of the huts have walls of
+clay, and roofs only of thatch or matting. The
+grain-stacks are also raised a foot or two from the
+ground, on stakes, to prevent the ghaseb getting wet
+during the rainy season. Thus it is that these
+children of Africa live a life of simplicity little
+above pure savages, and I may add, a life of comparative
+idleness, and perhaps happiness, in their
+point of view.</p>
+
+<p>Yesterday our Kashalla made a move to say his<a name="page293" id="page293"></a><span class="pageno">[293]</span>
+prayers. He was surrounded by the people who
+came with him from Zinder and Bornou, and the
+inhabitants of Dairmu. He prayed, but prayed
+alone, none following his example! It is quite clear
+that all the black population hereabouts are only
+nominal Muslims, and remain in heart pure Hazna,
+or pagans. Those who do pray, pray very little
+indeed; there is no sensual charin or allurement in
+Mahommedanism for the African mind, whilst its
+fasts and commands of abstinence from strong drinks
+deter thousands from embracing the religion of the
+false Prophet. It cannot allure the African by polygamy,
+because the African has as many women as
+he pleases by the permission of his native superstition.
+Islamism, therefore, takes no hold of the
+native African mind. There are a few Tuaricks
+scattered amongst all this population, but living
+generally out of the villages by themselves; they
+are all subjects of the Sheikh, and have escaped the
+desert to lead an easier life in Soudan. It is strange
+that some of the Tuarick women are enormously
+corpulent, whilst a corpulent woman is not found
+amongst the blacks. I must add, that the morality
+of these black villages seems of a much higher and
+purer kind than that of the Tuarick villages of
+Asben. Here they do not look upon woman, as in
+Asben, simply in the light of an instrument of
+pleasure: but I fear this will soon change. What
+morality, indeed, can there be without higher and
+more binding motives?</p>
+
+<p><a name="page294" id="page294"></a><span class="pageno">[294]</span></p>
+
+<p>I was much pleased with the condescension
+of the Kashalla in furnishing me with information
+on routes, and gave him a head of sugar. He
+is a man of great generosity, and immediately
+divided it amongst his people. He says he never
+leaves the Sheikh's presence, and it was solely on
+account of me that the Sheikh sent him to fetch me
+from Zinder. If this be true, their sovereign has
+paid a high compliment to the Mission.</p>
+
+<p>The only character whom I could discover in
+Dairmu was the constable, or general police-officer.
+This was an ill-looking fellow, with one eye damaged,&mdash;a
+most unamiable Dogberry. He approached
+the Kashalla twice, keeping, however, at a
+timid distance, kneeling down and throwing the dust
+in handfulls over his head, in the most abject manner.
+Yet this man was the dread of the whole neighbourhood!
+The exercise of all disagreeable employments
+seems to debase man. Before his superiors he crouches
+and grovels in dust; with the people he commands,
+he is a very tyrant!</p>
+
+<p><i>10th.</i>&mdash;I was joined yesterday evening by the
+rest of the caravan, Sa&iuml;d, and Moknee, and my new
+interpreter. Sa&iuml;d brings goods for Haj Beshir.
+We started early, and made seven hours; our route
+varying between east and south-east, through a fine
+wavy country, rising at times into high hills, with
+few trees in comparison to what we have hitherto
+had, and a good deal of cultivation, all ghaseb.
+The sandy soil is well adapted for this kind of<a name="page295" id="page295"></a><span class="pageno">[295]</span>
+grain. A ridge of quartz rocks strikes up through
+the sand. The rocky hills are mostly granite. The
+atmosphere was cooled by an easterly wind. We
+pitched tent, or rather halted, at a cluster of villages
+of considerable size, the principal of which is
+Guddemuni. They are all placed on hills. In the
+deep valley near is a large lake, towards the east,
+about two hours long and half-an-hour wide. In
+the dry season the people cultivate, by irrigation
+from the lake, a quantity of wheat, which they export
+to Kanou. Besides wheat, they raise ghaseb
+on the hill tops; and in the gardens, cotton, indigo,
+tobacco, onions, pepper, dates (bearing twice a-year),
+henna, potatoes (<i>dankali</i>), the palm (<i>geginya</i>),&mdash;bearing
+a large fruit (<i>gonda</i>), like the mealy melon,&mdash;gourds,
+rogo, and gwaza; which last are two species
+of potatoes. Some large trees are planted like the
+kuka, the fruit of which is used for sauce.</p>
+
+<p>To-day the Kashalla rode up to several men
+wandering in the fields, hunting, and attempted to
+impose some labour on them. This was a signal
+for a general stoppage of all foot-passengers, who
+were met by his people, for one purpose or another,
+either to take from them any little articles, or to
+vex them. They did not, however, stop two people
+we met, but gave them full leave to pass. Who
+were these? One was a man who, by disease, had
+become all over of a light flesh-colour, his black
+skin peeling off. It was a perfect phenomenon&mdash;a
+man with strong negro features, entirely white, or of
+<a name="page296" id="page296"></a><span class="pageno">[296]</span>
+a light dull-red colour. The other man was a miserable,
+filthy, blind fellow, whom the first invalid
+was leading. They were, in fact, a couple of mendicants
+going to Zinder on speculation, having come
+from Kuka, begging through all the towns and
+villages. The trade of begging is coextensive with
+man, civilised or uncivilised, in towns or country.
+Africa has a good number of this industrious class
+of people.</p>
+
+<p>The language of this cluster of villages is
+Haussa, like that of Zinder, the "Haussa of the
+North," as it is called: it varies a little from the
+pure Haussa of Kashna and Kanou. The people
+of this place were all excessively civil. I walked
+out in the evening, and saw about thirty of the
+maidens of Guddemuni (one of the villages) encircling
+a female dancer, who kept pacing to the
+sound of a rude guitar. At the sight of me they
+all made off. The poor blacks in these villages
+always expect that the white man comes to bring
+them into slavery. Afterwards I went to salute the
+Sultan. We saw him during two minutes; he kept
+rubbing his hands, as if he were cold. He was a
+sinister-looking man, dressed in a white tobe; he
+had not the least suspicion of what a Christian
+might be. I made the acquaintance of the taste of
+the doom-palm, in a dish of pastry seasoned by it.
+The taste is something like rhubarb, only a little
+sharper.</p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p><a name="page297" id="page297"></a><span class="pageno">[297]</span></p>
+
+
+
+<h2><a name="chapter18" id="chapter18"></a>CHAPTER XVIII.</h2>
+
+<div class="summary">
+<p>A Village plundered&mdash;Shaidega&mdash;Animals&mdash;Our Biscuit&mdash;Villages
+<i>en route</i>&mdash;Minyo&mdash;Respect for Learning&mdash;Monotony of the
+Country&mdash;A Wedding&mdash;Palsy&mdash;Slave-agents&mdash;Kal, Kal&mdash;Birni
+Gamatak&mdash;Tuaricks on the Plain&mdash;Palms&mdash;Sight the Town of
+Gurai&mdash;Bare Country&mdash;Bearings of various Places&mdash;Province of
+Minyo&mdash;Visit the Sultan&mdash;Audience-room&mdash;Fine Costume&mdash;A
+Scene of Barbaric Splendour&mdash;Trade&mdash;Estimate of Wealth&mdash;How
+to amuse a Prince&mdash;Small Present&mdash;The Oars carried by
+Men&mdash;Town of Gurai&mdash;Fortifications.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p><i>Feb. 11th.</i>&mdash;I rose early, and started as usual, as
+quick as possible. We made seven hours and a-half,
+and halted at a small village called Bogussa.
+After the fifth hour we came to the hamlet of
+Dugurka, which the Kashalla delivered up to
+plunder, because the people refused to give him
+some water. This is the story of my servants,
+which I do not believe. But certain it is, that,
+after the Kashalla passed the hamlet, his people,
+who loitered behind, commenced a general pillage
+of the poor little village. The inhabitants had all
+fled at our approach, save one old man. All the
+hut-doors were violently torn away and the insides
+ransacked. The spoils were leben, bowls or calabashes,
+<a name="page298" id="page298"></a><span class="pageno">[298]</span>
+bows and arrows, axes, and some other trifles.
+Of live-stock, all the fowls were seized and
+slaughtered on the spot; also a lamb. My interpreter
+tells me that all the slaves of the Government
+of Bornou are marauders, and that it was for
+this reason the Sarkee of Zinder complained to the
+Sheikh of the government caravans seizing the
+people and sacking their villages. In all my life I
+never saw such an instance of the triumph of might
+over right. My servants, most of them Bornouese,
+joined their brethren with great eagerness. To
+remonstrate with them is useless. I have had several
+quarrels of remonstrance already since I have
+been in the Sheikh's territory, about similar acts of
+brigandage; and if I go on, I shall quarrel with
+all the world of Africa, every hour of the day.
+I reproached my servants ironically. I told them
+some one would soon come and take their camels
+and bullocks, and they must not complain to me to
+get them redress. But it is astonishing to see with
+what zest these freed slaves from the north coast
+enter again upon their old habits of plunder and
+razzia. The education of Africa consists in preparing
+it for the razzia. All the fine-spirited youth
+of all the great families look forward to this as their
+only occupation.</p>
+
+<p>We reached the rocky hills called Shaidega, near
+which the lake terminates, stretching from Guddemuni.
+At the base of these rocky heights is a sprinkling
+of huts, and there are indeed many sprinklings<a name="page299" id="page299"></a><span class="pageno">[299]</span>
+of huts which cannot be mentioned all along this
+route. The hill tops have no longer the naked
+appearance of the Saharan rocks, but are clothed
+and crowned with trees. The country is very fine
+and park-like, and were it not for the doom-palm,
+would be more like some of the best parts of Europe
+than Africa is supposed to be. The animals seen to
+day were two wild boars and some wild oxen. A
+couple of lions, a male and a female, come out nearly
+every night and serenade the villagers of Bogussa at
+their hut doors. The filthy vultures of Zinder are
+spread through all this fine country. Many doves
+and water-fowl were seen. We forded several stagnant
+streams of water, but of very small magnitude.</p>
+
+<p>I sheltered myself in the afternoon under a magnificent
+tree, called in Bornouese <i>kamdu</i>, and in
+Soudanese, <i>samia</i>. We are beginning to see very
+fine trees, casting an impervious shade, under
+which the weary traveller deliciously reposes in the
+hot clime. To-day I suffered most dreadfully from
+my horse; with a camel I should have felt nothing,
+but I must submit: there is no remedy.</p>
+
+<p>I believe the Kashalla to be a very good man,
+and above his plundering countrymen generally,
+but habit induces him to wink at the acts of brigandage
+committed by his people. I observed him
+yesterday stop a little boy with a load on his head,
+and tell him to run away from the people coming
+up, and take another road, that the caravan might
+not plunder him.</p>
+
+<p><a name="page300" id="page300"></a><span class="pageno">[300]</span></p>
+
+<p>I had an affair with Yusuf yesterday morning:
+two boxes of biscuit had been left entire in his room
+at Zinder, and now one of them was found opened
+and a quantity of the biscuit taken out. He and
+his son have eaten nearly all the biscuit on the
+road, together with the Sfaxee and others. It is
+preposterous to think that Government sent these
+biscuits for them, who can eat ghaseb, ghafouley, and
+any grain of this country, and thrive on such food.
+The Germans gave away their biscuit, complaining
+that it was an embarrassment to them. This encouraged
+the people to plunder me of mine, and now I
+have little left for the rest of my travelling in Africa
+during the present journey.</p>
+
+<p><i>12th.</i>&mdash;We started early; the weather always
+cool, with fresh breezes from the east. All our people
+seem in good health. I got up rather stiff,
+having had a good fall from my horse yesterday.
+We made only three hours and a-half, part north-east
+and the rest due east. When I dismounted I
+felt less fatigued, and wrote up my journal. We
+passed several villages <i>en route</i> during these few
+hours; they occur, indeed, only about half-an-hour
+apart: viz. first in order after Bogussa, Gerremari,
+then Lekarari, Algari, a village of fighi pedagogues,
+Giddejer, and then Collori, where we have
+halted. It is said we shall still be three days before
+we get to the Sultan Minyo, and we have to
+pass Gamatak, Barataua, Birmi, Wonchi, Tungari,
+and finally, on the third day, early, we are to arrive at
+<a name="page301" id="page301"></a><span class="pageno">[301]</span>
+Gurai, the capital, governed by Minyo or Minyoma.
+Bogussa is the first district under the sway of this
+personage. We have in his name a remarkable
+instance of how in Africa names of cities and countries
+are confounded with those of their provinces.
+Hitherto, I and my interpreter had always taken it
+for granted that Minyo was the name of the capital
+of the province, not of the prince; so we understood
+from everybody, and only to-day we learn that
+Gurai is the name of the capital, whilst the province
+is called after the name of the prince, i.e. Minyo, or
+Minyoma.<a name="anchor21" id="anchor21"></a><a href="#footnote21" class="fnanchor">[21]</a></p>
+
+<p>Our route this morning lay through a remarkably
+fine district, teeming with fertility, and requiring
+only the hand of industry to render it the richest
+country in the world. Not a ten-thousandth
+part of the soil is cultivated. We met a troop of
+schoolboys with their masters; their boards, bedaubed
+with Arabic characters, would have been an
+effectual protection for them against a troop of
+horsemen a thousand times larger than ours. But,
+nevertheless, a poor woman, or a girl with a bowl of
+milk or a little butter, could not pass unscathed.
+Such is morality here. May there not, however, be
+some promise in this respect for education? A
+woodman left his axe a moment on the roadside;<a name="page302" id="page302"></a><span class="pageno">[302]</span>
+one of our troopers immediately went off and seized
+it. The woodman, returning, followed the trooper
+to the Kashalla, and falling down, and throwing
+dust over his head, begged for his axe as for his life.
+The Kashalla could not withstand the appeal, and
+ordered his trooper to restore the axe. The fellow
+had concealed the axe, and it was lucky the owner
+discovered the thief so soon. The poor man went
+away very thankful, thanking me also. I believe I
+may be some check on these depredations, for I told
+my interpreter last night that I never saw a village,
+or any people, pillaged in the Christian countries;
+in fact, that I could not have hitherto believed that
+men could do the things which I saw done that day
+by the servants of the Kashalla. It is probable he
+will mention what I said to some one, and it will get
+to the ears of the said Kashalla. The Africans, in
+plundering one another, appear as if they were
+avenging some old grudge; as if they remembered
+the various occasions when they themselves had been
+pillaged. They rob with wonderful <i>gusto</i>.</p>
+
+<p>A monotonous uniformity begins to prevail over
+all these tracts. I am afraid I shall soon get tired
+of this negro population and these towns, all built
+and all peopled in the same manner. They seem
+remarkably curious at first, but curiosity soon
+palls.</p>
+
+<p>We have with us the Hajah, mentioned before.
+She is very quiet, being <i>pass&eacute;e</i>, and also afraid of the
+Sheikh's people.</p>
+
+<p><a name="page303" id="page303"></a><span class="pageno">[303]</span></p>
+
+<p>I went round the village and found some five
+hundred or six hundred people nestled together.
+All the villages which we passed to-day have a similar
+population. I saw the preparations for a wedding;
+it was a most amusing sight. Two enclosures
+were crowded with people, all busy; but the busiest
+were those grinding corn for the marriage-feast.
+The bridegroom was with one group, haranguing
+them in the most persevering manner, and rattling
+a hollow gourd filled with small stones. The group
+replied in chorus, all on their knees, bending forward,
+rubbing grain between two stones. The
+other group went on by themselves. Then, in an
+enclosure close by, was the bride, attended with,
+all her maiden friends, jammed together in a hut,
+all busy, doing nobody knows what. It was with
+great difficulty I could get a peep at her. The
+bride and her friends were distinguished by having
+a sort of brass nail-head driven through the right
+nostril of their noses. Good big boys were running
+about quite naked. But the conduct of the people,
+old and young, was quite decent.</p>
+
+<p>The bridegroom followed me to my tent, rattling
+his calabash for a present, singing my praises
+cheaply enough, for I gave him a very small
+present indeed. They have no set songs; all their
+singing is extempore.</p>
+
+<p>Afterwards I saw a man afflicted with palsy in
+his head. He applied to me for a remedy, but I
+could only recommend him to bathe himself every<a name="page304" id="page304"></a><span class="pageno">[304]</span>
+day in warm water, which will never be done; for
+these people are too indolent to perform any labour
+of this kind, even if it be to save their lives.</p>
+
+<p>My new interpreter, Mohammed, pretends that
+slave servants, or agents, are thought more of, that
+is, are more useful, than free people in Bornou.
+This may be accounted for by the absolute control
+which a master can exercise over his slave.</p>
+
+<p>The thermometer at sunset ranges 84&deg;. It was
+very warm this afternoon.</p>
+
+<p>Here and there an ostrich egg tops the conical
+roofs of the huts, from Damerghou to this place. I
+showed the people my watch, and put it to their
+ears that they might hear it tick, tick; and I may
+observe a singularity on this. The people did not
+say, "Oh! how it ticks!" but "Kal, kal!" so that
+kal, kal, is the sound which we express by tick,
+tick, in our language.</p>
+
+<p><i>13th.</i>&mdash;As usual, we rose before sunrise, and
+started as soon as possible. We made four hours
+in the forenoon, and rested at a well called Birni
+Gamatak. The village is near the well, but we did
+not go to it. From this place to the Tuarick
+country, Gurasu, there are four short days; but
+the road has no water in this season. The Ka&iuml;d of
+the village paid us a visit, and brought us ghaseb-water.
+I amused him and his people with my
+watch and compass. After resting till 4 P.M. we
+started again. At Birni Gamatak a zone of mountainous
+country begins, consisting of granite, gneiss,<a name="page305" id="page305"></a><span class="pageno">[305]</span>
+and other varieties of primitive rocks. We had a
+magnificent ride through a fine rocky country.
+After one hour and a-half we passed Wonchi to
+the right, or south of us; a small village. On the
+route we had a boundless vista through the hills,
+over a vast plain, covered with a scattered forest,
+extending without end towards the north. This
+country is overrun by Tuaricks; all, however, living
+in friendship with the Sheikh. We made five hours
+and a-half, always east, so that we did not arrive
+at Tungari till long after daylight. Tungari consists
+of two or three considerable villages, having
+a population of about two thousand. Here I saw a
+greater number of date-trees than I had yet seen in
+Soudan. There were larger plantations, and many
+gardens. I have nothing particular to observe
+respecting this place, except that the people showed
+more boldness than the population subjected to the
+Sultan of Zinder; because the Sultan of Minyo
+gives them more protection against the Bornou
+marauders, or Government servants, travelling
+through the country. I went to bed thoroughly
+fatigued.</p>
+
+<p><i>14th.</i>&mdash;We rose at daybreak and went off immediately,
+and made four hours north-east, and then
+from a fine rising ground had a splendid view of all
+the town of Gurai. Our route yesterday and to-day
+began in a south-easterly direction, and after continuing
+east for some time gradually turned round
+to north-east, so that we have our faces again<a name="page306" id="page306"></a><span class="pageno">[306]</span>
+toward the northern desert. Yesterday I felt, for
+the first time, this approaching warm season&mdash;a hot
+wind, which, curiously enough, now comes from the
+north, whereas before it always came from the
+south.</p>
+
+<p>Gurai is very bare of trees, the townspeople
+having burnt them all up. I kept a-bed all day, to
+recruit myself from fatigue. The Kashalla went to
+salute the Sultan, who inquired after me. They
+reported my state, and said I should come to see
+him in the morning (i.e. of next day).</p>
+
+<p>According to a Gatronee, Kellai, a country of
+the Tuaricks, is one day only north-west from Gurai.
+It is a small village. Gurasu is five days from this,
+north-west. Dallakauri, also a Tuarick country, is
+one day northwards, or north-east. This is a large
+place. Bultumi, another Tuarick country, small;
+one day, east. Malumri, one day and a-half east.
+Therrai, a small place, a day beyond Dallakauri,
+north-west, two days from this. Chokada, a small
+place, five or six hours from this. All these places
+are inhabited by the Tuarick tribe of Duggera, viz.
+Kellai, Gurasu, Dallakauri, Bultumi, Malumri,
+Therrai, and Chokada. This tribe infests the
+upper part of the route of Bornou, that between
+the Tibboos and Kuka. Formerly they were great
+bandits, but now they fear the Sultan of Minyo, and
+begin to desist from their bad trade and turn to
+more peaceful habits. Bunai is one day and a-half
+south from Buroi, formerly the capital of the<a name="page307" id="page307"></a><span class="pageno">[307]</span>
+province of Minyo, and where the father of the
+present Sultan resided. It is a little less than
+Burai. Here we are told that, after all, Minyo is
+<i>not</i> the name of the Sultan, as before mentioned,
+but the name of the province, which is sometimes
+called Minyoma, as being more euphonic; but all
+people love harmony in language. This province
+is considered the most powerful of the empire of
+Bornou.</p>
+
+<p><i>15th.</i>&mdash;Having selected my present for his
+highness the Sultan, consisting of a piece of cotton
+velvet for a tobe (ten mahboubs), a head of sugar,
+a little cinnamon and cloves, a piece of muslin for
+turbans, and a cotton handkerchief, I paid my
+visit under the escort of the Kashalla, and the
+Sultan's major-domo, a man carrying a large stick
+with a great knob at the end. We went straight
+to the palace, a considerable building, built of clay,
+like the Sultan's house at Zinder, in the shape of a
+fort or castle.</p>
+
+<p>We were first ushered into an audience-room
+or hall, of large dimensions, with little light, adapted
+for an African climate. It is newly built, and
+indeed not yet finished. The architecture is the
+same as the public buildings or houses of the chief
+officers in Kuka. Here we waited a quarter of an
+hour, during which time the people poured in from
+all quarters. At length we were ushered into the
+presence. I found the Sultan to be a good-looking
+black, with features not much stamped with the<a name="page308" id="page308"></a><span class="pageno">[308]</span>
+negro character. He was about the age of forty-five
+or fifty. His costume was truly royal, consisting
+of a loose tobe of purple silk, and a black
+burnouse, embroidered, thrown over it. He wore a
+turban of Egyptian form, and very handsome. His
+highness received me very affably, and I took my
+seat near him, on a pic-nic stool which I have with
+me. I shook hands, and doffed my hat. There
+was no throwing of dust about, as at Zinder. But
+we found the Sultan already seated, with all his
+courtiers and officers around him. His highness
+asked about my health, and the Tuaricks. He
+observed, "The Tuaricks are afraid of you." Some
+persons of that tribe, perhaps, have given him this
+false view of the case, pretending that the Tuaricks
+are afraid I am come to spy out the country, to be
+taken possession hereafter by the Queen. His
+highness minutely scanned all my European clothes,
+making many inquiries about them. All the people
+were highly delighted to see me throw aside my
+miserable Soudan tobe, and dress in my European
+costume. In fact, I don't know what I should
+have done without these clothes. The people then
+pulled off my boots, and burst out into an involuntary
+exclamation of astonishment when they saw
+my white leg under my stocking. My face and
+hands are both pretty well tanned, and the quality
+of the European skin is not so visible as in the parts
+of the body covered. His highness then inquired
+whether there was war in Europe, and whether<a name="page309" id="page309"></a><span class="pageno">[309]</span>
+peace existed between England and the Porte. He
+was very anxious to continue his questions, but
+there being two or three hundred persons present,
+he was obliged to defer them till the evening. I
+was much gratified with the sight. It was really a
+scene of African state, but without deformities.
+There was no blood, no slaying of victims, no abject
+ceremonies; nothing to offend the eye of the European.
+We merely saw, seated on a raised platform,
+a black, robed in barbaric style of splendour, with
+a hundred courtiers and officers squatted on the
+ground him, all humble beings, but not abject.</p>
+
+<p>On returning, his highness sent our caravan
+four bullocks, to be slaughtered for our use. To-day
+was market-day, but there was no stock of consequence
+here, there being little foreign commerce.
+There may be a score of foreign merchants, nearly
+all from Fezzan, but they are mere traders, and
+only bring a few things for the Sultan and his chief
+officers. These merchants say that there is no
+money here, nor, indeed, in Bornou.</p>
+
+<p>The place for money is Kanou. All the wealth
+of Central Africa is, according to them, concentrated
+there. Kanou is, in fact, the London of
+Soudan. I asked a merchant here, who was
+accounted rich; that is, who was a <i>Maidukia</i>? He
+replied, "One with property to the amount of a
+thousand dollars." Even a man with five hundred
+is accounted a somebody. Such is the estimate of<a name="page310" id="page310"></a><span class="pageno">[310]</span>
+wealth here. I expect to find all Bornou miserably
+poor.</p>
+
+<p>In the evening I waited again on his highness,
+according to appointment. He had descended
+from his throne, and divested himself of all his
+splendour, being now dressed in a plain tobe and
+burnouse. He received us squatted on a carpet
+upon the ground, in an inner court, and reminded
+me much of a stage king who had undressed after
+the performance. I produced all my wonderful
+things to amuse his highness,&mdash;my compass, spyglass,
+kaleidoscope, spectacles, peepshow, &amp;c. In
+this way I amused him for an hour, he the while
+asking questions about my personal habits. Our
+people then told him the sovereign of England was
+a woman. "<i>Kamo?</i>" To which I replied, "<i>Kamo.</i>"
+I was then requested to read some English, which
+I did from Milton. I always exhibit a small edition
+of Milton's poetry, with gilt edges and morocco
+binding, which greatly surprises all people accustomed
+to the use of books. The Kashalla then
+told his highness that I washed my face and hands
+continually, but did not pray. I explained through
+my interpreter that now, in a foreign country, I
+read my prayers, and that we had the Gospel;
+and he added, "The Zebour," Psalms of David.
+All educated Muslims are acquainted with or
+have heard of the Psalms of David. I take
+out a copy of the Gospel and Psalms in Arabic,<a name="page311" id="page311"></a><span class="pageno">[311]</span>
+that every educated Mahommedan may see that
+we English are not the En-Sara or Kerdies of
+Africa, but have a God and a religion. The inconvenience
+of this is, that it leads sometimes to
+talking and disputing on religion, not always in
+season. A prudent man, however, will evade all
+difficulties without compromising his belief. We
+had again present a hundred people, or more, and
+his highness was disturbed at the number, but did
+not like to send them away. He asked me how
+old I was; and of my servants, whether I was married,
+&amp;c.</p>
+
+<p>I returned pleased with my visit, although I
+lost one of my peepshows; for the Kashalla was
+foolish enough to tell me to give it to his highness.
+This is the danger of exhibiting these things. I
+took to the prince a small present of rings, silk,
+bracelets, and a necklace of mock pearls for his
+ladies; and hope to get back my peepshow by
+exchanging it for some such trinkets. This was a
+cool day, with a fresh breeze continually blowing.</p>
+
+<p><i>16th.</i>&mdash;I rose in a quieter state, though I have
+been much fatigued these last few days. It is
+expected we shall be here two or three days more.
+Fifteen days is the time allowed for our journey
+from this to Kuka. The people display greater
+curiosity to see me than the inhabitants of Zinder,
+this province being more out of the way of strangers.
+Yesterday, on returning from the palace, I had a
+hundred people at my heels.</p>
+
+<p><a name="page312" id="page312"></a><span class="pageno">[312]</span></p>
+
+<p>The mode of salutation for a sultan is peculiar
+in these provinces. It consists in holding up and
+back the lower part of the arm, and moving it up
+and down&mdash;to denote strength, probably; an intimation
+of local strength, as well as that of the body
+generally. I have been often saluted in this manner,
+and the mode is employed to strangers or any
+distinguished person.</p>
+
+<p>N.B.&mdash;The people of Kanem have not the
+shonshona.</p>
+
+<p>The oars of the boat are now carried, as the
+people say, by Ben-Adam (children of Adam, i.e.
+men). It is certainly more difficult to get them
+through these African forests than over the rocks
+of Sahara on the camel's back. Five servants of
+the Sultan of Zinder left this morning, having
+brought them thus far, to return. I gave them a
+little present of wad&acirc; and rings.</p>
+
+<p>Gurai is somewhat smaller than Zinder, having a
+population of perhaps seven thousand souls. I have
+overrated the population of Zinder: that city, probably,
+does not contain more than ten thousand souls, if
+so many. On emerging from the Saharan Desert,
+where we had been accustomed to bestow the name
+of town upon great scattered villages, with a few
+hundred inhabitants, Zinder appeared to me quite
+a capital city. The town of Gurai is scattered
+about on several hills, and down their slopes.
+These hills are bare of trees and vegetation.</p>
+
+<p>There is a dry ditch surrounding the town. It<a name="page313" id="page313"></a><span class="pageno">[313]</span>
+answers the purpose of a fortification, especially as
+its effect is aided by a thickset hedge. At some
+places this hedge is growing; at others, it consists
+merely of branches cut from various trees, but
+rendered almost impenetrable by being made broad
+and thick. These defences are quite effectual in
+the kind of wars carried on in these regions.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="footnote21" id="footnote21"></a><a href="#anchor21">[21]</a> It
+is worth while leaving this mistake of Mr. Richardson or
+his informants, as an illustration of the great difficulty that exists in
+eliciting accurate facts from natives of Africa and other uncivilised
+countries.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p><a name="page314" id="page314"></a><span class="pageno">[314]</span></p>
+
+
+
+<h2><a name="chapter19" id="chapter19"></a>CHAPTER XIX.</h2>
+
+<div class="summary">
+<p>Fezzanee Traders&mdash;Sultan in want of Medicine&mdash;The Stud&mdash;Letters&mdash;Yusuf's
+Conduct&mdash;Architecture&mdash;Fragment of the History of
+Minyo&mdash;Politics of Zinder&mdash;Bornouese Fish&mdash;Visits&mdash;Two
+Routes&mdash;Dancing by Moonlight&mdash;Richness&mdash;Fires&mdash;Information
+on Boushi and Adamaua&mdash;The Yamyam&mdash;Liver Complaints&mdash;A
+Girl's Game&mdash;Desert Country&mdash;Gift Camel&mdash;Few Living Creatures&mdash;Village
+of Gusumana&mdash;Environs&mdash;The Doom Fruit&mdash;Brothers
+of Sultan of Sakkatou&mdash;Stupid Kadi&mdash;Showing off&mdash;Hot
+Weather&mdash;[Final Note&mdash;Death of Mr. Richardson.]</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>I had visits yesterday from all the Fezzanee
+traders. These people, as at Zinder, and everywhere
+at Soudan, sell their goods at a high price
+to the Sultan, and then are obliged to wait six or
+seven months for their money, eating up all their
+profits. No wonder the poor fellows rarely get
+rich, but remain, on the contrary, always miserably
+poor. The same is the case throughout all Soudan.
+To-day my tent was thronged with visitors,
+before whom I am obliged to exhibit myself, or
+show my curiosities. Among others, I had a visit
+from some people who came from Gobter, distant
+four hours south, on purpose to see me; and,
+moreover, had a call from some ladies nearly related
+<a name="page315" id="page315"></a><span class="pageno">[315]</span>
+to the Sultan. They all wanted medicine, but
+for what they could not tell; so I gave them each a
+taste of Epsom. This made them relish a bit of
+sugar, which I distribute to them afterwards, and
+which appeased their grimaces and disgust. I am
+pestered to death for medicines, and have visitors
+without number.</p>
+
+<p>The Sultan sent word this morning to know if
+I had anything to sell, any fine things from the
+Christian countries, for he wished to buy them.
+Our people returned for answer that I was not a
+merchant, but belonged to the Queen. He then
+begged me to give him a small quantity of my medicines,
+for he had heard I had most wonderful
+drugs;&mdash;would I favour him with some of every
+kind, that he might be prepared for all possible
+complaints which might attack him hereafter,
+when I was gone? For the present he is suffering
+from pains in all his joints; and requests, in the
+first place, to be relieved from them. Compliance
+with these demands was, of course, necessary. I
+therefore packed up small quantities of emetics,
+acetate of lead, worm-powders, and Epsom, and also
+a little camphor, and a little sticking-plaster, with a
+small bottle of Eau de Cologne. With these I went
+to pay my respects. We found the Sultan in a
+small private apartment. He was in an inquisitive
+mood, and began by asking me all manner of questions,
+the subjects ranging from the affairs of kings
+and princes down to the handkerchief round my<a name="page316" id="page316"></a><span class="pageno">[316]</span>
+neck. I should observe that the Sultan requested
+Yusuf to taste the medicines before he delivered
+them up to him, to see that there was no blood in
+them. So he tasted the salts and the jalap; but I
+told him that the acetate of lead was poison, and we
+wrote <i>sem</i> upon all the packets. It surprised him
+that we should administer poison to the eyes.</p>
+
+<p>After the interview his servants showed me his
+horses. They were but ill-formed animals, some
+heavily built, and others miserable-looking creatures.
+Yet these are the pick of the whole country, and
+some have been lately brought from Sakkatou, as
+the best which could be exported from that quarter.</p>
+
+<p>In the afternoon another slave of Haj Beshir
+arrived from Zinder, seeking for me. He had
+brought a letter, but had orders if he did not find
+me to return it to Kuka; so that I shall be without
+news until my arrival. He, however, just knows
+that a caravan came from Mourzuk in thirty-nine
+days, bringing this letter, which was forwarded to
+me. It comes direct from Tripoli. There are
+three letters for me!</p>
+
+<p>This evening my new interpreter came with a
+long trumped-up story, as to what the Sultan had
+said respecting my quarrel with Yusuf. His highness
+was represented to have expressed a strong
+desire that we might be reconciled before we
+arrived at Kuka. I cannot tell whether this be
+true or false. Probably they have attempted to
+get the Sultan to speak to me about Yusuf. This<a name="page317" id="page317"></a><span class="pageno">[317]</span>
+is always the case. These people do you as much
+injury as they please on the road, and when they
+are near a place which makes them afraid, they get
+a number of people to come and persuade you to
+say that they are very good fellows. It is quite
+clear that Yusuf has stolen several things on the
+road. The last thing missed is a large quantity of
+cloves. It is difficult to know how to act on these
+occasions.</p>
+
+<p><i>17th.</i>&mdash;I took Epsom, and feel better.</p>
+
+<p>The architectural ornaments of the palace of
+Gurai resemble those of the houses of Gh&acirc;t. The
+walls are covered with little recesses, of various
+shapes; the moulding consists of a series of lozenges;
+the pillars by which the ceiling is supported are of
+immense thickness. In these large halls, on a level
+with the ground, there are always raised seats of
+earth, on which are spread carpets, and lion and
+leopard skins.</p>
+
+<p>By the way, this country seems clear of animals.
+They are all either hunted down, or driven into
+thicker shades and forests.</p>
+
+<p>All these provinces have their histories preserved
+traditionally. The father of the present Sultan
+of Gurai, named Ibrahim, was a most determined
+fellow. He slew no less than seven sultans appointed
+to take his place. The Sheikh, in the first
+instance, sent a large army to dispossess him. Before
+superior forces he retired to a mountain, where
+he was unattackable. The new Sultan was installed,<a name="page318" id="page318"></a><span class="pageno">[318]</span>
+and the troops of Bornou returned to Kuka. As
+soon as they were gone, Ibrahim descended the
+mountains with his slaves, and fell upon the new
+prince, butchering him and his people. Then he
+wrote to Kuka: "I am under God and you." The
+Sheikh, enraged at this conduct, sent another force
+against him, as before. Ibrahim once more retired
+to his stronghold, and after the Bornou forces had
+returned to Kuka, again descended from his mountain,
+and butchered the new prince as before. And
+this he repeated seven times, so that at last the
+Sheikh, seeing the impossibility of continuing the
+war with such a vassal, allowed him to have quiet
+possession of the province of Minyo. His son
+Goso, now sultan, is also a very spirited fellow;
+but he is on good terms with the Sheikh, and observed
+to me, "What Kuka (the Sheikh) does, I do;
+as what Stamboul does, so does Tripoli." Goso, or
+Gausau, is certainly a very polite prince, and a very
+accomplished man. To him the Sultan of Zinder is
+a mere slave.</p>
+
+<p>There is some news about the Sultan of Zinder.
+It appears that Sarkee Ibrahim feels himself weak,
+and unable to conduct the government of the province
+prosperously, i.e. "to go on razzia;" so he
+wrote for his brother to come and undertake the
+command of the slave-hunts. The brother spoke to
+the Sheikh, who said "Go." But the brother said,
+"No, I will not go, unless you will give me the
+province to govern." The Sheikh replied, "Your<a name="page319" id="page319"></a><span class="pageno">[319]</span>
+brother will give you some town." "No," was the
+answer; "I will not go unless you will give me the
+whole province." This is now the great news in
+Zinder and Gurai, and was carried to the former
+place by two horsemen, who galloped from Kuka to
+Zinder in six days.</p>
+
+<p>I now write the names of the sultans of the
+province in Arabic, before them, with a black-lead
+pencil. This greatly astonishes them: first, that I
+am able to write their names and that of the
+countries which they govern; and secondly, with a
+black-lead pencil, which they call wood.</p>
+
+<p class="centre"><i>Names of several sorts of Fish (Buni) in Bornou.</i></p>
+
+<ul>
+<li>Yogari, a large flat fish, four or five feet long, and as many broad.</li>
+<li>Kagwi, a fish like a cod or ling.</li>
+<li>Haik, one foot and a half long, three or four inches broad.</li>
+<li>Kamudee, one foot and a half long, thick as the lower arm, and quite black.</li>
+<li>Karwa and Kagia, species of small plaice.</li>
+<li>Labun, of the size of a locust.</li>
+<li>Kadikadi, large thick eel.</li>
+</ul>
+
+
+<p>The Sultan is very anxious about my personal
+history, and hearing that I had my wife in Tripoli,
+inquired if I intended to take another in this
+country.</p>
+
+<p>I have had numberless visits all day long.
+The people display an intense curiosity to see the
+<a name="page320" id="page320"></a><span class="pageno">[320]</span>
+Christian, and would stop here for ever, gazing
+before my tent. Four sisters of the Sultan gave me
+a call. I taught them the use of pins, and pinned
+three of them together, which produced great merriment
+amongst the people. A Fellatah horse-dealer
+gave me two routes to-day; one from this
+(Gurai) to Sakkatou, and another from Sakkatou
+towards the west.<a name="anchor22" id="anchor22"></a><a href="#footnote22" class="fnanchor">[22]</a></p>
+
+<p>A quarrel has sprung up between the Kashalla
+and Sa&iuml;d, Haj Beshir's slave, about the road we
+should take from this to Kuka. The north-eastern,
+or direct east, is the shortest, but there are three
+days without habitations: this is Sa&iuml;d's road. The
+south-eastern is the longer route, and is the Kashalla's,
+but there are people every day. The
+latter is probably the better route for me. It is
+decided that we leave the day after to-morrow.</p>
+
+<p>This evening the Sultan sent me a camel, as a
+present. Not having experienced the difficulty of
+riding a horse, I had sold all my camels. The
+gift camel is a very good one.</p>
+
+<p>When the moon rises, about an hour after dark,
+the beating of the drums is heard, calling the people
+to assemble for the dancing&mdash;young men and
+maidens. In ten minutes, some hundred people are
+collected. The dancing then commences in full
+and grand style. This evening I went out to see
+the performance, and found it the most animating
+I had yet seen in Africa. The young men and<a name="page321" id="page321"></a><span class="pageno">[321]</span>
+maidens separated into parties, the maidens near
+the drummers, and the young men at a distance of
+some twenty paces around them. A circle is then
+formed. The ladies here choose their own partners,
+instead of waiting to be chosen. A maiden skips
+up awkwardly to the drummer, then glides off to
+the side of the young men, and touches the gentleman
+with whom she wishes to dance, and returns.
+The young man does not immediately accept, for
+two or three minutes elapse after he has been
+touched ere he starts off to join the lady who has
+honoured him in the presence of a hundred admiring
+or jealous spectators. They join, turning first face
+to face, then back to back, then face to the drummers,
+in the most lively style. The young men are
+dressed in their tobes, and throw them up and round
+so as to produce a moving circle, as women might
+do with their petticoats; but not moving their bodies
+so much as their circling tobes: this is the grand
+grace of the dance. Then there are parties of men
+and women dancing together; but the men with
+men, and women with women. The women trip up
+awkwardly, but modestly, to where the men are
+placed, and then fall back; upon which the men
+pursue them violently, overtaking them before they
+get to their places, and throwing their tobes around
+them: but there is nothing indelicate in all this.
+On the contrary, the whole dance is quite a pattern of
+modesty to the Europeans, the Arabs, and the Moors,&mdash;to
+these latter especially, whose dance, as introduced
+<a name="page322" id="page322"></a><span class="pageno">[322]</span>
+here, is of the most lascivious and beastly description.
+This entertainment takes place every night;
+it is the great solace and delight of the people: they
+have no other amusement. They are all passionately
+fond of the drum, which certainly makes a great
+noise, and stirs them up to exhibit their dancing
+powers.</p>
+
+<p>The whole population have suddenly become
+sick, and all want Epsom salts: a camel-load
+would not suffice. One old fellow wants a medicine
+to enable him to get children. I tell him he
+is now old, and must be satisfied with the strength
+God has given him in his past life.</p>
+
+<p>The Sultan has made presents to our people,&mdash;to
+the Kashalla, Yusuf, and others.</p>
+
+<p><i>18th.</i>&mdash;I was so beset with people that I could
+not use my thermometer this morning. The weather
+is fresh, with the wind from the north-east. I am
+obliged to give tea as medicine: everybody now
+pretends to be sick, from the Sultan to the meanest
+slave.</p>
+
+<p>In all these villages the people burn up the
+stubble in the evening, just outside the village, on
+the dung-heaps. They like to see the flame which
+whirls up from the dirty hay or straw; but, of
+course, they make their fire at some distance, to
+prevent its catching their huts. The mortar and
+pestle have disappeared: the people use here, for
+grinding their grain, two stones, as in some places
+on the north coast.</p>
+
+<p><a name="page323" id="page323"></a><span class="pageno">[323]</span></p>
+
+<p>The insects are beginning their depredations
+upon me, biting me all over, and raising on my
+flesh small ulcers.</p>
+
+<p>I have obtained from Nammadina, the Fellatah
+horse-dealer, a detailed account of the route to Yola,
+the capital of Adamaua, passing through Boushi.</p>
+
+<p>The Moors represent the latter place to be like
+Mourzuk and Tripoli; but they say the greater part
+of the inhabitants of Adamaua are infidels or pagans.
+The rulers are, however, Fellatahs, and therefore
+Muslims. Adamaua is a rocky country: a small
+quantity of grain is found here, with abundance of
+sheep, oxen, horses, goats, fish, samen, honey, and
+onions. The rivers of Adamaua have always some
+water in them.</p>
+
+<p>In the territory of Boushi will be found the
+celebrated name of Yamyam, where the Moorish and
+Arab merchants place the residence of the Ben-Adam
+eaters, or cannibals. I was greatly amused to hear
+my Fellatah informant most strenuously deny this
+calumny on the African race; he asserted that he
+had been in the country, and never had seen anything
+of this sort. The Moors as boldly affirmed
+that such cannibals exist, although they were obliged
+to confess they never saw the people of Adamaua or
+Yakoba (name of the sultan) eat human flesh. The
+whole story of the Yamyam is of the remotest antiquity,
+and has come down to us with many embellishments;
+but, if once true of the people hereabouts,
+it can no longer be authenticated by present facts,
+<a name="page324" id="page324"></a><span class="pageno">[324]</span>
+for as I have said, the Moors themselves represent
+Boushi to be like Tripoli.</p>
+
+<p>The people from Fezzan and Tripoli, the traders
+and all, complain of the liver complaint; most of
+them have been ten or fifteen years in this country,
+travelling through Bornou and Soudan. I gave
+them small doses of calomel. All people at this
+season, blacks and strangers from the north, are
+full of rheumatism, which they describe by saying
+they have pains in all their joints and all their
+limbs. The presence of a Christian having medicines
+heightens and multiplies these diseases; there
+is, however, in reality, a good deal of rheumatism,
+arising from the cold winds of the north-east.</p>
+
+<p>This evening we had again our drummers and
+the dancers, as on every preceding night. The
+girls have a laughable game amongst themselves,
+the boys, however, sometimes joining&mdash;that of throwing
+one another up and forwards by the arm-pits;
+the girl thus thrown forwards is expected, if she
+play her part well, to light firmly on her feet. If
+not, she rolls about and over, and the accidents that
+then occur are probably considered a great part of
+the amusement.</p>
+
+<p><i>19th.</i>&mdash;We were hurried off this morning early
+by the Kashalla, and I had no time to go and take
+leave of the Sultan. The weather is fresh. I
+mounted my gift camel; the second grand gift
+from the princes of Africa. We made a long day,
+from morning till after dark, about ten hours,<a name="page325" id="page325"></a><span class="pageno">[325]</span>
+through an undulating country. Some of the
+hollows were very deep, and enclosed stagnant
+reedy pools, of generally bad water, remaining
+from the past rains. For the first three or four
+hours of this march we had a scattered forest of
+dwarfish trees, mostly dwarf tholukhs. These are
+succeeded by small forests of the doom-palms,
+lining the pools and swamps in the valleys, and
+looking very fresh and pretty. I was astonished
+to see so few animals; indeed, we only observed
+now and then a small bird. What was the more
+strange, no water-fowl was seen in the pools.</p>
+
+<p>But the country to-day was all desert&mdash;no grain
+cultivating, which perhaps may account for the
+absence of birds and fowls. Sa&iuml;d prevailed over
+the Kashalla, and we have taken the desert route,
+being five days nearer. There are, besides, but few
+trees, comparatively, which makes it easier to
+transport the boat.</p>
+
+<p>The Kashalla vexed me very much by taking
+my camel to transport a portion of baggage, his own
+camel knocking up. At first I refused to go on,
+but on the promise that he would get a bullock
+at the nearest place I mounted upon the luggage.
+Fortunately, my gift camel is a good one, not like
+the horse, and can carry a large weight. I cannot
+grumble much, as the Sheikh's camels are transporting
+many of my private things. Nevertheless you
+must show a stern resistance to all these liberties,
+otherwise you will never be able to get through
+Africa.</p>
+
+<p><a name="page326" id="page326"></a><span class="pageno">[326]</span></p>
+
+<p>No tent was pitched, but I made myself comfortable
+by drinking the remainder of a bottle of
+port wine, which I began yesterday. I felt a little
+queer, and fancied I had injured myself by drinking
+so much milk; so I took to a bottle of port wine,
+and finished it in three times. I have felt much
+better since. I could very well drink a bottle a-day,
+and believe I should be much stronger for
+it. However, such wine should be kept for convalescence
+after fever. I have still a bottle, and
+some Cyprus wine&mdash;very good wine.</p>
+
+<p><i>20th.</i>&mdash;We started as soon as the day broke
+and the sun showed himself, and made five hours
+south-east over country the same as yesterday.
+But the forests of doom-palms were larger and
+thicker, and valleys also were more extensive.
+What is strange, no wild animals show themselves,
+not even in these sedgy, reedy swamps. I could
+only see scattered on the ground the feathers of
+the guinea-fowl. One or two black-and-white
+crows were noticed. Our people say that all the
+crows are of this colour in Bornou. In Ashen
+there are both species, the black, and the black-and-white.
+Our people also tell us, that on the
+other route, which the Kashalla wished to travel,
+there are numbers of elephants, and much water.
+Here is water enough in the rainy season for all
+such animals. We had still the tholukh, as well
+as the doom, and a tree like a large sea-shore plant
+cropped by the camels.</p>
+
+<p>We saw no ghaseb cultivation, or any sort of<a name="page327" id="page327"></a><span class="pageno">[327]</span>
+grain, till we arrived at Gusumana, where we found
+wheat, cotton, and pepper in the gardens. The
+village of Gusumana is situated on a hill, overlooking
+a steep broad valley, full of the doom-palm.
+This village has therefore its houses constructed
+partly with the branches and trunks of this tree,
+which serve very well. I am housed in a most
+comfortable little hut made of this material, and
+nicely thatched; the door is composed of some thin
+strips of the leaves of the palm, which, as you enter,
+give way, and then return to their place, just as
+would a curtain. In this way the air always plays
+freely into the hut, murmuring sometimes between
+these fragments of leaves.</p>
+
+<p>I have felt much less fatigue since I mounted
+the camel, although I have made the longest
+day upon it that has been made since we left
+Zinder. I recommend to all travellers the camel
+in the desert, or in Soudan. I believe the ill-health
+of the former expedition was much increased
+by always riding horses. Thank God, my
+strength still keeps up.</p>
+
+<p>Taking Gusumana as a centre, we have
+around it several towns and villages. Thisi, one
+hour west; Gajemmi, one long day north-west;
+Parum, one hour east-south-east; Kadellebua,
+two hours south-west; Garua, one hour east;
+Gogora, two hours east; and, finally, in our road,
+Kanggarua, two days south-east. The town of
+Gajemmi is inhabited by the tribe of Duggera;<a name="page328" id="page328"></a><span class="pageno">[328]</span>
+but the Ka&iuml;d of this village pretends they are not
+Tuaricks. He means, probably, not the same as
+the Tuaricks of Ashen. It is quite clear that these
+Daggera inhabit all the northern line of Bornou,
+from Zinder to Kuka; skirting, in fact, all the left
+of our route. They join the Damerghou territory,
+and thus extend from that province west to Kanem,
+and the route of Bornou east. The Tuaricks are
+ever located on the confines of the desert. Here
+they roam free, and rob and plunder where they
+have opportunity, or when the princes of Bornou
+and Soudan cannot check them.</p>
+
+<p>Our people gnaw the doom fruit, but it is just
+like gnawing the bark of a tree, slightly flavoured
+with some aroma. They begin to eat them from
+childhood, and so keep on, as the gour-nuts are
+chewed by children; and so the taste is sucked in
+with their mother's milk. The gour-nut, however,
+is something, whilst the doom fruit is mere wood.
+The tree, nevertheless, is green, and in waving
+forests delightfully relieves this hot, burning, African
+landscape.</p>
+
+<p>The portion of the caravan consisting of bullocks
+is always much later than the rest; to-day they
+were four hours after us. I consider that the hours
+we now go are at least two and a-half or three
+English miles in length, as we advance at a speed
+quite equal to a horse walking at a good pace; nay,
+I might say, some hours we make three and a-half
+English miles.</p>
+
+<p><a name="page329" id="page329"></a><span class="pageno">[329]</span></p>
+
+<p>The following are the names of the brothers of
+the Sultan of Sakkatou, obtained from my Fellatah
+informant of Gurai. A difference of pronunciation
+will be observed in the Arab names, as they are
+transmitted through the Fellatah language. Aliu
+(for Ali), name of the Sultan himself and one of
+his brothers; Mallaidi; Amadu (Ahmed), Omeru
+(Omer, two of this name), Mahammedu (Mahammed),
+Mogari; Amadu Bedai; Alhattu; Moho; Isa (two
+of this name); Amadu el-Fai; Musa; Abd-el-Kaderi,
+and Abd-el-Walli. These are the names of all the
+brothers which he has heard. The first minister is
+called Galladima. The Kadi is El-Hali el-Haj;
+Inna is the generalissimo; Mohammed Wuddeggen,
+Muddebri Ali, Bu Beker, Manuri, and Gudundi,
+are names of other grandees and generals.
+The horse-dealer speaks of them with great familiarity,
+for he sells to them all. His own country
+is called Kabi, situated to the south-west of Sakkatou.
+He gave me the particulars of the route.<a name="anchor23" id="anchor23"></a><a href="#footnote23"
+class="fnanchor">[23]</a></p>
+
+<p><i>21st.</i>&mdash;This morning the weather was cool, the
+thermometer standing at 56&deg;, with a fresh wind.
+We had a visit early from the Kadi. I asked him
+why he did not plant date-trees in the fine valley
+under the village. He replied, "From whence
+shall I procure them?" I answered, "From Tungari
+(a place west, three days distant)." At this he
+looked very stupid. These Minyo negroes have no
+idea of improving their condition. His reply may
+serve for all the country hereabouts.</p>
+
+<p><a name="page330" id="page330"></a><span class="pageno">[330]</span></p>
+
+<p>Minyo and its large province is called by its
+aboriginal names Manga. It extends south-east to
+a river, on the other side of which begins Bornou
+Proper. But the people of Manga speak the same
+language as the Bornouese. Zinder belongs to the
+circle of Soudan, and its province is called Damagram.</p>
+
+<p>Mohammed, my interpreter, pretends he saw
+elephants to-day at a considerable distance, looking
+like black trees. Probably to-morrow we may fall
+in with some animals worth seeing. I observed
+two or three swallows, the first this year. We stop
+here to-day to rest. The animals are knocked up,
+and the Kashalla has lost a horse.</p>
+
+<p>It is from this Manga province that many of the
+villages of Damerghou are populated. Formerly
+the Tuaricks of that province made razzias on these
+out-lying provinces, with the produce of which they
+increased the number of their subjects.</p>
+
+<p>An European must needs show off in this
+country. Yesterday I was obliged to exhibit to
+all the village,&mdash;about a hundred people,&mdash;and to-day
+to as many more. It is very fortunate if you
+are not detestably ugly, and can pass muster; for if
+you are, you will have all sorts of faces made at
+you; and, besides, you will be considered to represent
+a whole people as an ugly race. I walked round
+the village. There may be two hundred huts, and
+about six hundred inhabitants. The sun burns at
+four P.M. most fiercely. I begin to be afraid of it;
+but the days are uncertain, and sometimes the
+weather is quite chilly.</p>
+
+<p><a name="page331" id="page331"></a><span class="pageno">[331]</span></p>
+
+<p>According to my interpreter, Mohammed Ben
+Ahmed Bu Saad, there is no money in Bornou,
+and the Sheikh could never obtain a strong army.
+We certainly find considerable difficulty all along
+to get an extra camel or bullock, and those to be
+obtained are very bad ones. The people cultivate
+very little, and have no resources to fall back on.
+They have just a little grain for themselves. The
+Sheikh of this place is a respectable man, and has
+been very civil to me. He, however, requires from
+me a medicine to procure him a good reception
+wherever he goes. He says he is frequently called
+to Minyo and other large places, and he wants a
+medicine to procure him the smiles, good-will, and
+friendship of all the people whom he meets. Especially
+he wishes always to have the favour of the
+Sultan. I had numbers of other patients all day;
+my Epsom is fast going. Thermometer at sunset,
+82&deg;; weather very troublesome to-day, blowing hot
+and cold with the same breath.<a name="anchor24" id="anchor24"></a><a href="#footnote24"
+class="fnanchor">[24]</a></p>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="footnote22" id="footnote22"></a><a href="#anchor22">[22]</a> See <a href="#appendix">Appendix</a>.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="footnote23" id="footnote23"></a><a href="#anchor23">[23]</a> See <a href="#appendix">Appendix</a>.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="footnote24" id="footnote24"></a><a href="#anchor24">[24]</a> Here
+ends Mr. Richardson's journal, with words which already
+hint the cause of the lamentable accident that speedily followed.
+Spring was advancing with its uncertain temperature in Central Africa.
+The thermometer varied nearly thirty degrees between the morning and
+afternoon. Doubtless, however, the unusual fatigue of horse-exercise
+during the days that succeeded the departure from Zinder may have
+contributed its share in breaking down Mr. Richardson's strength.
+Something of a desponding tone may be observed in the journal for
+many pages; but we do not find that there was any cessation of
+industry. In addition to what is found in the regular diary, a good
+many notes were left written in pencil. Among the principal of them
+are the following:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p><a name="page332" id="page332"></a><span class="pageno">[332]</span></p>
+
+<p>"In Kanem, north of Bornou, it rains a month earlier in the season
+than in that province; in Bornou, one month earlier than in
+Kanou; in Kanou, one month earlier than at Niffee. The heat of
+to-day, under a thatch hut, at one P.M., same as yesterday, 96&deg;.
+Sugar dissolved into a wash is a common remedy in Soudan and Bornou
+for bad eyes; but, perhaps, it is made an excuse for getting sugar
+from us."</p>
+
+<p>"In the evening we marched two hours and a-half in an E.S.E.
+direction. We were met by the Sheikh of the place, with some fifteen
+horse, and a mounted drummer. No wild animals are seen, on
+account of the fires in the desert (made, however, by the people on
+purpose to catch them). No water-fowls swim in the pools, probably
+because there is no cultivation. But this is the real country of the
+elephants. I saw the dung some two days before, and could not make
+out what it was. These days the dung was more abundant, and the
+people told me what it was. The people about here do not hurt them,
+their spears being useless against the hide of this great quadruped;
+the hunters, however, entangle the smaller animals&mdash;gazelles, &amp;c.&mdash;by
+means of a great wheel made of cane. The animals put their feet
+in the middle, which gives in, and holds them, whilst the top is secured
+by strong cords."</p>
+
+<p>"Mandemnia.</p>
+
+<p>"Kangarwar, half the size of Zinder. First day, evening march,
+seven hours, pitched in open country; course, S.E. Second day,
+pitched in open country; course, E. Third day, six hours, E.N.E.
+Fourth day, half-an-hour's morning march. Mandemnia village
+people occupied in making salt."</p>
+
+<p>I believe Mr. Richardson was sometimes in the habit of jotting
+down observations in this way on loose pieces of paper previous to
+inserting them in his journal, which he evidently wrote in great part
+with a view to its being sent to the press, though at others he breaks
+away into a series of disconnected memoranda. We have no further
+account of what happened between the 21st of February and the 4th of
+March, than what is contained in the letter written by Dr. Barth, Mr.
+Richardson's fellow-traveller, so often mentioned in the foregoing
+pages (see Preface).&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="longer" />
+
+<p><a name="page333" id="page333"></a><span class="pageno">[333]</span></p>
+
+
+<h2><a name="appendix" id="appendix"></a>APPENDIX.</h2>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<h3>LIST OF ROUTES, &amp;c.</h3>
+
+
+<h4><i>Route from Zinder to Kanou.</i></h4>
+
+<ul class="inside">
+<li>From Zinder, starting S.S.E., Kankandi, one
+hour.</li>
+<li>Baban Tabki, a quarter of an hour.</li>
+<li>Dunai, four hours: large place, or village.</li>
+<li>Guna, one hour: large place.</li>
+<li>Karaiai, four hours: large village.</li>
+<li>Washa, seven hours: town and residence of a
+sultan.</li>
+<li>Kakibarai, three hours. This place consists of
+three villages; one upon the rocky hills, one on the
+slope, and one under the rocks. At Washa there
+are also rocks; the rest of the route is flat. From
+Washa to Kakibarai there is a most copious supply
+of water.</li>
+<li>Gordo, ten hours: large village.</li>
+<li>Eshkakato, two hours: large village.</li>
+<li>Tumbi, two hours: town and residence of a sultan.
+Omitting one place, the name of which was
+not remembered, then follows:<a name="page334" id="page334"></a><span class="pageno">[334]</span></li>
+<li>Maidabara, one hour.</li>
+<li>Gumel, two hours: town and residence of a sultan.</li>
+<li>Tukkenzuru, one hour.</li>
+<li>Bermanaua, one hour: large village.</li>
+<li>Elladi, one hour. Here terminates the territory
+of Bornou.</li>
+<li>Garki, two hours: a very populous place, and
+said to be the residence of seven sultans (or governors).
+Here begins the territory of the Fellatahs.</li>
+<li>Dago, three hours.</li>
+<li>Kuka Maifurra, two hours.</li>
+<li>Kuka Mairua, one hour and a half.</li>
+<li>Gubbasaua, two hours.</li>
+<li>Souk (name not remembered), two hours.</li>
+<li>Gaizaua, two hours: a large place.</li>
+<li>Sharo, one hour. Here are three running
+streams, each separated by about a quarter of an
+hour's ride.</li>
+<li>Zango, a quarter of an hour. From Sharo to
+Kanou there are no less than thirty small villages.</li>
+<li>Kanou, a quarter of an hour. The whole of the
+route, with the exception of the rocks of Washa and
+Kakibarai, is flat, and trees are scattered along all
+the road. From Gumel to Dogo there is a forest,
+and from Kakibarai to Gordo the country is covered
+with the doom-palm. In all the towns and villages
+above enumerated is found a good supply of water.
+The portion of Bornouese territory is sandy, and
+that of the Fellatah's good earthy soil.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<p><a name="page335" id="page335"></a><span class="pageno">[335]</span></p>
+
+<h4><i>Routes from Zinder to Kuka: first route, vi&acirc; Minyo.</i></h4>
+
+
+
+<p>From Zinder to</p>
+
+<ul class="inside">
+<li>Zarmu, half a day; village. (The half day is from four to five hours.)</li>
+<li>Ginnewa, half a day; village.</li>
+<li>Majia, seven hours; village.</li>
+<li>Minyo, half a day; town and residence of a sultan of considerable power and influence.</li>
+<li>Alkammaram, seven hours; well.</li>
+<li>Kadalafua, seven hours; large village.</li>
+<li>Birribirchi, seven hours; well.</li>
+<li>Kagarwa, half a day; large village.</li>
+<li>Karragu-fillai, three hours.</li>
+<li>Gurrutua, half a day; town, and residence of a sultan.</li>
+<li>Zangairi, name of a river and a village, three hours. Here is a large river, which, however, is dry in summer.
+Most of these rivers are dry during the two or three hot months.</li>
+<li>Miggeba, four hours; a village.</li>
+<li>Zaggatur, half a day; a village.</li>
+<li>Bua, four hours; a village.</li>
+<li>Bagusu, half a day; a village.</li>
+<li>Kuka, four hours; town.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<p>This route is usually reckoned at fifteen days'
+journey: trees are abundant on all the route, especially
+the doom-palm. There are, besides, many
+streams of water, on the banks of which are seen
+animals of every description.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<p><a name="page336" id="page336"></a><span class="pageno">[336]</span></p>
+
+<h4><i>Second Route, vi&acirc; Mashena.</i></h4>
+
+<ul class="inside">
+<li>Miria, three hours; town, and residence of a sultan. Here is a small lake,
+where palateable fish are caught. Abundance of corn is also found here.</li>
+<li>Gushi, eight hours; town, and residence of a sultan.</li>
+<li>Gijemu, three hours; village.</li>
+<li>Zubaggeru, eight hours; large village.</li>
+<li>Funokam, three hours; village.</li>
+<li>Mashena, three hours; town, and residence of a sultan.</li>
+<li>Bundi, half a day; town, and residence of a sultan.</li>
+<li>Karimairi, three hours; town, and residence of a sultan.</li>
+<li>Zorikulo, eight hours; village.</li>
+<li>Kafi, three hours; village.</li>
+<li>Ganaua, half a day; village.</li>
+<li>Wadi, half a day; village.</li>
+<li>Gurrutua, eight hours; village.</li>
+<li>Miggeba, half a day; village. A river, in which water is found three feet deep during the summer.</li>
+<li>Fataganna, three hours; village.</li>
+<li>Dumrua, half a day; village.</li>
+<li>Shilaua, half a day; a village.</li>
+<li>Basher, half a day; a village.</li>
+<li>Kuka, three hours.</li>
+</ul>
+
+
+<p>This route abounds with trees, water, fruit, corn,
+and many animals.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<p><a name="page337" id="page337"></a><span class="pageno">[337]</span></p>
+
+<h4><i>Route from Gumel to Kuka.</i></h4>
+
+<p>From Gumel to</p>
+
+<ul class="inside">
+<li>Shafoa, half a day; large village.</li>
+<li>Taganama, half a day; large town, and residence of a sultan.</li>
+<li>Mashena, six hours; town, residence of a sultan.</li>
+<li>Gumsi, seven hours; large village.</li>
+<li>Zirku-Kura, ten hours; running water and wells.</li>
+<li>Enki-Kura (i.e. large water), twelve hours; a large lake, stagnant, having no communication with
+other water.</li>
+<li>Lauwanri, ten hours; large village.</li>
+<li>Diru, ten hours; large village.</li>
+<li>Chilumwa, ten hours; large village.</li>
+<li>Burburwa, twelve hours; a large walled town, and what is called <i>Biad-es-souk</i>, i.e. where a market
+is held.</li>
+<li>Daboko, twelve hours; small village, near a large river.</li>
+<li>Limbua, ten hours: this place consists of fifty or sixty little villages.</li>
+<li>Binaua, eight hours, comprising many small villages.</li>
+<li>Kamis-Ali, five hours, or place where a market is held.</li>
+<li>Basher, eight hours; village.</li>
+<li>Kuka, four hours.<a name="anchor25" id="anchor25"></a><a href="#footnote25" class="fnanchor">[25]</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<p><a name="page338" id="page338"></a><span class="pageno">[338]</span></p>
+
+<h4><i>Route from Kanou to Kuka.</i></h4>
+
+
+<p>From Kanou to</p>
+
+<ul class="inside">
+<li>Gaizaua, six hours; a large place.</li>
+<li>Kuka-Mairua, eight hours.</li>
+<li>Gerki, nine hours.</li>
+<li>Gumel, half a day; town, residence of a sultan.</li>
+<li>Ungua-Kalu, eight hours: this place includes two villages.</li>
+<li>Gullairi, ten hours; large village, or town without walls.</li>
+<li>Mashena, half a day; town, and residence of a sultan.</li>
+<li>Bundi, half a day; town, and residence of a sultan.</li>
+<li>Karremeri, four hours; a town, three times as large as Zinder.</li>
+<li>Zolikulo, eleven hours; village.</li>
+<li>Kafi, eight hours; village.</li>
+<li>Ganaua, nine hours; village.</li>
+<li>Dellella, half a day; village.</li>
+<li>Kashimwa, ten hours; large place, and a river.</li>
+<li>Miggeba, eight hours; village.</li>
+<li>Kassachia, five hours; villages: large river, dry in summer.</li>
+<li>Ura, eight hours; village.<a name="page339" id="page339"></a><span class="pageno">[339]</span></li>
+<li>Kinchakusko, ten hours; village.</li>
+<li>Bagusu, ten hours.</li>
+<li>Kuka, eight hours.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<h4><i>Route from Kuka to Mourzuk.</i></h4>
+
+
+<p>From Kuka, north, to</p>
+
+<ul class="inside">
+<li>Urutua, half a day; small village.</li>
+<li>Karillewa, half a day; a well.</li>
+<li>Yau, half a day; walled town, large river.</li>
+<li>Burwa, twelve hours; walled town.</li>
+<li>Wuddi, twelve hours; stream, running into the Tchad (great lake).</li>
+<li>Gaigomai, four hours; small villages and rivers.</li>
+<li>Bir-Hamam, twelve hours; well.</li>
+<li>Kufai, nine hours; one tree; resting-place, formerly a well.</li>
+<li>Kibbu, fifteen hours; a well.</li>
+<li>Bel-Kashefferri, three days, and arrive the fourth day after six hours.</li>
+<li>Agdem, one day and a-half; well, large rocks and sandhills.</li>
+<li>Dubbula, two days; well, large rocks and sandhills.</li>
+<li>Zau, one day and a-half; well, large sandhills.</li>
+<li>Musguatin, seven hours; well, rocks.</li>
+<li>Bilma, four hours; large walled town.</li>
+<li>Shummenduro, eleven hours; town upon the rocks.
+<a name="page340" id="page340"></a><span class="pageno">[340]</span></li>
+<li>Dirku, two hours; walled town, and residence of the Sultan of the Tibboos (capital).</li>
+<li>Ashennema, half a day; village and rocks.</li>
+<li>Amchumma, ten hours; village and rocks.</li>
+<li>Anai, two hours; village and rocks.</li>
+<li>Yuguba, twelve hours; a well.</li>
+<li>Sigdem, twelve hours; well and rocks.</li>
+<li>Maffarus, one day and a half; well.</li>
+<li>Lahmer, one day and a half; well and rocks.</li>
+<li>War, three days; well, and mountains of great height and magnitude.</li>
+<li>Meshru, two days; well and rocks.</li>
+<li>Oma, twelve hours. Here the traveller at length sees a forest of date-palms;
+and the first district of Fezzan begins.</li>
+<li>Tajerrhi, eleven hours; walled town.</li>
+<li>Kazraua, twelve hours; village.</li>
+<li>Mudrusai, half a day; village.</li>
+<li>Gatron, two hours; village.</li>
+<li>Hafari, twelve hours; well and date-palms.</li>
+<li>Mustutai, fifteen hours; well and date-palms.</li>
+<li>Bithan, twelve hours; village.</li>
+<li>Sidi Beshir, half a day; village.</li>
+<li>Mourzuk, three hours.</li></ul>
+
+
+<p><i>Obs.</i>&mdash;All the Tibboo districts, like those of
+Fezzan, have forests of date-palms. Between Maffarus
+and Oma there is no herbage during seven
+days. The greatest quantity of sand in this route is
+found between Agdem and Zau.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<p><a name="page341" id="page341"></a><span class="pageno">[341]</span></p>
+
+<h4><i>Route from Kuka, to Mandara.</i></h4>
+
+<p>From Kuka, south, to</p>
+
+<ul class="inside">
+<li>Manguno, nine hours; a large town.</li>
+<li>Dikua, half a day; a walled town, and residence of a sultan.</li>
+<li>Gasa, ten hours; a village.</li>
+<li>Quondega, seven hours; a large village.</li>
+<li>Gamergu, five hours; a large village.</li>
+<li>Karaua, twelve hours; first country of Mandara, of great height.</li>
+<li>Izgai, four hours; village and rocks.</li>
+<li>Dulo, four hours; villages and rocks.</li>
+<li>Mora, three hours; a walled city, and capital of Mandara, a small city, containing not more than
+ten thousand souls. The Sultan has five hundred cavalry and one thousand eunuchs. These poor
+devils are made here. The Kerdies or pagans upon the neighbouring mountains are called Matacum.
+These mountains are said to be of considerable altitude.</li>
+</ul>
+
+
+<p>According to Omer Wardi there is no difficulty
+in going to Muzgu, south of Mandara, and seat
+of the nearest pagans.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<p><a name="page342" id="page342"></a><span class="pageno">[342]</span></p>
+
+<h4><i>Route to Mandara from Kuka: Second Route,
+Eastern.</i></h4>
+
+<p class="centre">TERRITORY OF BORNOU.</p>
+
+<p>From Kuka, south-east, to</p>
+
+<ul class="inside">
+<li>Gornu, half a-day; a walled town, larger than Zinder.</li>
+<li>Gulum, three hours; small village. Here is a river.</li>
+<li>Yaidi, four hours; large walled town.</li>
+<li>Martai, four hours; large walled town.</li>
+<li>Ala, three hours; large walled town.</li>
+<li>Diwa, eight hours; large walled town, and residence of a sultan. Here is a river.</li>
+<li>Abagai, two hours; small village.</li>
+<li>Kuddaigai, one hour; small village.</li>
+<li>Sokoma, one hour; a large walled town.</li>
+<li>Millehai, two hours; a small place.</li>
+<li>Magarta, three hours; a large walled town.</li>
+<li>Dellehai, half a day; a large place.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<p class="centre">TERRITORY OF MANDARA.</p>
+
+<ul class="inside">
+<li>Muddebai, a long day; a large walled town.</li>
+<li>Dulo, eight hours; a large walled town.</li>
+<li>Mandara, three hours; a city about the size of Mourzuk.</li>
+</ul>
+
+
+<p>A day's journey from Mandara is sufficient to
+make a razzia of slaves. Muzgu, a great Kerdi
+country, is three days' journey from Mandara.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<p><a name="page343" id="page343"></a><span class="pageno">[343]</span></p>
+
+<h4><i>Route from Kanou to Sakkatou.</i></h4>
+
+<p>From Kanou:</p>
+
+<ul class="inside">
+<li>Dal, three hours; several small villages, where tobes are dyed with indigo.</li>
+<li>Zalia (Zaria?), a walled town, containing some 20 or 30,000 souls, and residence of a sultan; one long day.</li>
+<li>Lariski, half a day; a small village.</li>
+<li>Gaia, eight hours; a large walled town, and residence of a sultan.</li>
+<li>Kafela, half a day; small village.</li>
+<li>Yakuba, five hours; a walled town, and residence of a sultan.</li>
+<li>Mukubi, three hours; a small town on the banks of a river, in which there is always water.</li>
+<li>Keskaua, half a day; a small village.</li>
+<li>Gala, eight hours; a walled town, and about the size of Zinder; residence of a sultan.</li>
+<li>Kusuri, one long day; a large walled town, and residence of a sultan. A river, having always water.</li>
+<li>Lokoui, one long day; a walled town, and residence of a sultan. The same river as at Kusuri.</li>
+<li>Sakkatou, eight hours. This journey is reckoned at twenty days.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<h4><i>Route from Taghajeet to Tuat.</i></h4>
+
+<p>From Taghajeet, on the northern frontiers of
+Aheer, to</p>
+
+<ul class="inside">
+<li>Asaiou, two days and a-half; water-station.
+(All<a name="page344" id="page344"></a><span class="pageno">[344]</span>
+the following names are water-stations, i.e. places where there are wells.)</li>
+<li>Logsur, three days and a-half; well: and so of the rest.</li>
+<li>Gharghar, three days; tents of wandering tribes of Tuaricks, principally Hagar and Maghatah.</li>
+<li>Yaizair, two days. From Gharghar to Tuat there are tents of Tuaricks along all this line of route.</li>
+<li>Aifak, one day.</li>
+<li>Tamaghaset, one day.</li>
+<li>Outur (or Utur), one day.</li>
+<li>Tairagin, one day.</li>
+<li>Tailak, two days.</li>
+<li>Ennimgal, three days.</li>
+<li>Tahalai-Oget, two days.</li>
+<li>Tisnu, two days.</li>
+<li>Minneat, two days.</li>
+<li>Tagajert, two days.</li>
+<li>Amasir, two days.</li>
+<li>Arak, two days.</li>
+<li>Tajmut, two days.</li>
+<li>Tegtamin, one day.</li>
+<li>Agmamar, two days.</li>
+<li>Loknaig, two days.</li>
+<li>Shab, two days.</li>
+<li>Hash-Lugwaira, one day.</li>
+<li>El-Gesser (Tuat), one day and a-half; a village.</li>
+<li>Ain-Salah, an hour or two.</li>
+</ul>
+
+
+<p>On this route there are no oases, no date-palms;
+<a name="page345" id="page345"></a><span class="pageno">[345]</span>
+the road lies through valleys and over plains, lined
+with rocky mountains, like those of Asben or Aheer.
+There is no region of sand, but now and then the
+earth assumes a sandy character. My informant is
+a Tuatee, who has travelled this route; in fact, no
+other persons but people of Tuat, unless Hagars
+and Maghatah, can do so in safety. I could not
+succeed in extracting more information from my
+informant. He was a mere barbarian, and pestered
+me, whilst writing the route, with demands for all
+sorts of things. Though a resident of the town of
+Tuat, he was in grain and mould a thorough
+Targhee bandit.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<h4><span class="smcap">The different Races in Kuka.</span></h4>
+
+
+<p class="centre"><i>Resident or Strangers.</i></p>
+
+<ol>
+<li>Shua (the first Arab settlers in Bornou).</li>
+<li>Arabs Bengazi.</li>
+<li>Arabs Misratah.</li>
+<li>Arabs and Moors of Aujilah; Mujabri, from Jalu, or Aujilah.</li>
+<li>Fezzanee, or people from Fezzan.</li>
+<li>Walad Suleiman, now domiciled in Kuka, and Wady Gazalahs.</li>
+<li>People from Tripoli; a very few.</li>
+<li>People from the west; a very few.</li>
+</ol>
+
+
+<p class="centre"><i>Belonging to the Sheikh.</i></p>
+
+<ol start="9">
+<li>Bornouee, bulk of the population.<a name="page346" id="page346"></a><span class="pageno">[346]</span></li>
+<li>Kanembu, north-east from Kuka.</li>
+<li>Qaiyam, around Kuka, within a few hours.</li>
+<li>Manga, west from Kuka.</li>
+<li>Baddi, west from Kuka.</li>
+<li>Kairi-Kairi, west from Kuka.</li>
+<li>Lari, west from Kuka.</li>
+<li>Gizzem, south-west from Kuka, twenty days.</li>
+<li>Gizzerai, near Gizzem.</li>
+<li>Engezer, south of Kuka, ten days.</li>
+<li>Kaiauri, south of Kuka, five days.</li>
+<li>Babur, south of Kuka, nine days.</li>
+<li>Figa, south of Kuka, fifteen days.</li>
+<li>Margi, south of Kuka, seven days.</li>
+<li>Kobchi, south of Kuka, seven days.</li>
+<li>Mulgwai, south of Kuka, ten days.</li>
+<li>Massafai, south of Kuka, fifteen days.</li>
+<li>Bogwai, south of Kuka, twenty days.<a name="anchor26" id="anchor26"></a><a href="#footnote26"
+class="fnanchor">[26]</a></li>
+<li>Umbum, south of Kuka, thirty days.<a href="#footnote26" class="fnanchor">[26]</a></li>
+<li>Fali, south of Kuka, thirty-five days.<a href="#footnote26" class="fnanchor">[26]</a></li>
+<li>Umbai, south of Kuka, twenty days.<a href="#footnote26" class="fnanchor">[26]</a></li>
+<li>Koua, south of Kuka, twenty-five days.<a href="#footnote26" class="fnanchor">[26]</a></li>
+<li>Butai, south of Kuka, thirty days.<a href="#footnote26"
+class="fnanchor">[26]</a></li>
+<li>Maudraui, south of Kuka, eight days.</li>
+<li>Begarmi, east of Kuka, twenty days.</li>
+<li>People of Logun, near Begarmi.</li>
+<li>People from Wada&iuml;; travellers.</li>
+<li>Sara, a province near Begarmi, with its own sultan.
+<a name="page347" id="page347"></a><span class="pageno">[347]</span></li>
+<li>37. Fitri, a province belonging to Wada&iuml;. There is water in the lake of Fitri.
+People of this province do not come to Kuka.</li>
+</ol>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<h4><i>Route from Tuat to Wadnoun.</i></h4>
+
+<p>From Tuat, or from Ain-Salah, in Tuat, westward,
+to</p>
+
+<ul class="inside">
+<li>Timmemoun, a small oasis of Tuat, two days; date-palms, &amp;c.</li>
+<li>Ourara (Urara), five days; an oasis of Tuat larger than Timmemoun. Between Timmemoun,
+and Ourara, date-palms and wells in abundance.</li>
+<li>Taffilelt, five days. Between Ourara and Taffilelt there are a number of small villages.</li>
+<li>Dra, nine days. From Tuat to Dra, passing through Taffilelt, the route is lined with forests of
+palms, and water everywhere abounds. Dra consists of some one hundred towns and villages.</li>
+<li>Weled Omer Ben Melouk, a tribe of Arabs, numbering some five thousand souls, and having
+maharees and horses. The whole tribe are notorious bandits. From Dra to the tents of this tribe there
+are some seven days' journey.</li>
+<li>Barraber, twenty days, consisting entirely of plains, with here and there wells. This is another
+tribe of Arabs, wandering in tents, and all bandits. They chiefly mount horses; they have, however,
+camels and flocks; the tribe consists of about two thousands souls.
+<a name="page348" id="page348"></a><span class="pageno">[348]</span></li>
+<li>Tajakant, ten days; plains, with the mountains of Sous on the north. A tribe of pacific Arabs (i.e.
+not bandits), numbering about three thousand, having both horses and camels.</li>
+<li>Shurfa, or Weled Seba, three days; a tribe of Arabs, all Shereefs, numbering some four or five
+thousand, having many horses and camels, and flocks, and a few bullocks. Not bandits.</li>
+<li>Sakia Hamara, two days; a large walled, town, situated in a wady under a mountain: Shereefs and
+Marabouteen.</li>
+<li>Wad-Noun, three days.</li>
+</ul>
+
+
+<h4><i>Ain-Salah.</i></h4>
+
+<p>South, from this point of departure we come to
+the</p>
+
+<ul class="inside">
+<li>Walad Bahammu, at a distance of one day; an
+oasis of two villages; all Tuatee bandits, riding
+maharees, wearing turkadees, like Tuaricks. One
+of these villages is called Akobli, known in the
+route to Timbuctoo.</li>
+<li>North, from Ain Salah are mentioned the</li>
+<li>Shellah, a tribe living in tents, speaking a
+Berber dialect; two days. My informant knows no
+more.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<p>East, from this point there is only desert
+towards Ghadamez.</p>
+
+<p>West, from the same, Timmemoun and Ourara.</p>
+
+<p>The person who gave me this information is one
+Haj Mohammed Ben Welid, a native of Ghadamez.<a name="page349" id="page349"></a><span class="pageno">[349]</span>
+Besides the above route from Tuat to Wadnoun, I
+am indebted to him for the Niffee route. Six years
+ago he was at Niffee, and saw there a large American
+vessel trading for slaves and other merchandise.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<h4><i>Route from Kanou to Niffee.</i></h4>
+
+<p>From Kanou, south, to</p>
+
+<ul class="inside">
+<li>Baibaishi, five days; walled town, and residence of a sultan; about the size of Zinder, situate
+amongst rocks: a river of continually running water.</li>
+<li>Zaria, two days; an immense walled town, of the size of Kanu: residence of a powerful Fullanee sultan.</li>
+<li>A wady, with continually running water, one day; no town.</li>
+<li>Agoi, three days; a number of small villages, situate under rocks of great height: a stream of running water.</li>
+<li>Agoi-Karama, one day; a small village, under lofty heights of rocks: a stream of running water.</li>
+<li>Kurmi-Wia (i. e. Difficult River), one day; a running river amidst dense forests; no town: here
+are immense bamboos, like ghaseb.</li>
+<li>Jangaru, three days, amidst forests of trees; a walled town, not quite so large as Zinder, having a
+Governor or Ka&iuml;d. Here the route divides into
+two branches: one west, going to Raba, in seven<a name="page350" id="page350"></a><span class="pageno">[350]</span>
+days; and the other south, to Gorji, one day, on the banks of the Niger; and on to Niffee.</li>
+<li>Gorji, one day, on the Niger; a large town.</li>
+<li>Ladai, two days; a large walled town, and residence of a sultan, called Masaba.</li>
+<li>Lori, five days and a-half; a large city, capital of Niffee: the Sultan a Fellatah, called Sita.</li>
+<li>From Jangaru, west, Akarri, one day; and from Akarri, seven days; then we come to Raba, passing</li>
+<li> through all sorts of country.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<h4><i>Route from Kanou to Sakkatou.</i></h4>
+
+<p>From Kanou, west, to</p>
+
+<ul class="inside">
+<li>Tofa, one day; small village.</li>
+<li>Kalenya, one day; small walled town.</li>
+<li>Sabonkashi, four days; a large walled town, and residence of a sultan.</li>
+<li>Kanya, three days; small village.</li>
+<li>Sabokafi, four days; a small village.</li>
+<li>Kogo, two days; a large walled town, situate between rocks; a small stream.</li>
+<li>Rafi, one day; a large walled town.</li>
+</ul>
+
+
+<h4><i>Zanfeirra.</i></h4>
+
+<ul class="inside">
+<li>Kauralamoda, two days; a large walled city, and residence of a sultan: a running stream in winter.</li>
+<li>Gora, one day; a small village.<a name="page351" id="page351"></a><span class="pageno">[351]</span></li>
+<li>Bakura, three days; a large walled town, and residence of a sultan: streams in rainy season.</li>
+</ul>
+
+
+<p>From Rafi to Bakura extends the province or
+kingdom called Zanfeierra, of which the capital is
+Bakura.</p>
+
+<p>Between Bakura and the city of Sakkatou,
+which comes next in order, after two days, there
+are a number of small villages. Before you reach
+Sakkatou from Kanou, distant an hour, is a large
+river, in which is found water during the dry
+season.</p>
+
+<p>On this route there are not many forests, but
+there is a good deal of grain and other cultivation,
+with very few rocks. The road is usually good,
+only now and then infested by the freebooters from
+Maradee. This route is travelled in from ten to
+twelve and fifteen days,&mdash;not above fifteen,&mdash;with
+anything like good travelling.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<h4><i>Route from Zinder to Gomel.</i></h4>
+
+<p>From Zinder, west, to</p>
+
+<ul class="inside">
+<li>Gogai, one day; a cluster of villages.</li>
+<li>Zerma, one day; a small village.</li>
+<li>Azbenaua, one hour; a small village.</li>
+<li>Kamai, one hour; a small village.</li>
+<li>Gomel, two hours; a large place, and residence  of a sultan.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<p><a name="page352" id="page352"></a><span class="pageno">[352]</span></p>
+
+<p>The Kashalla has been so good as to give me the
+names of the towns and villages between Kuka and
+the capital of Begarmi; viz, from Kuka to Gornu,
+one day, but a very short day, three or four hours,
+and all the days following the same, three or four
+hours only.</p>
+
+<ul class="inside">
+<li>Gornu, one day.</li>
+<li>Mardai, one day.</li>
+<li>Yaidi, one day,</li>
+<li>Digua, one day.</li>
+<li>Mozzenai, one day.</li>
+<li>Sabala, one day.</li>
+<li>Gala, one day.</li>
+<li>Mabadai, one day.</li>
+<li>Wilgi, one day.</li>
+<li>Abadai, one day.</li>
+<li>Ngelbai, one day.</li>
+<li>Kutheri, one day.</li>
+<li>Logonai, one day.</li>
+<li>River Chari, one day.</li>
+<li>Mudba, or Dar-Begarmi, one day: first town of Begarmi. All the countries hereabouts are called Dar.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<p>After Mudba, in Begarmi:</p>
+
+<ul class="inside">
+<li>Gaui, one day.</li>
+<li>Joadai, one day.</li>
+<li>Derejebany, one day.</li>
+<li>Abuger, one day.</li>
+<li>Mazanya, one day; capital of Begarmi.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<p><a name="page353" id="page353"></a><span class="pageno">[353]</span></p>
+
+<h4><i>Gurai to Sakkatou.</i></h4>
+
+<p>From Gurai, westward, to</p>
+
+<ul class="inside">
+<li>Tungari, four hours; large place.</li>
+<li>Bonai, three hours; large place.</li>
+<li>Mashena, four hours; large place; residence of a Sultan.</li>
+<li>Alamaiko, eight hours; large place.</li>
+<li>Kakori, one long day; small place.</li>
+<li>Murma, one long day; large place.</li>
+<li>Muddechi, half a day; large place.</li>
+<li>Hadayi, half a day; large place.</li>
+<li>Jafun, one long day; large place.</li>
+<li>Kadawauwa, half a day; large place.</li>
+<li>Gunfia, half a day; small place.</li>
+<li>Gammoji, half a day; small place.</li>
+<li>Gaia, one long day; large place.</li>
+<li>Birni-Kanou, nine hours; a great country.</li>
+<li>Kara&uuml;, half a day; large place.</li>
+<li>Dangani, half a day; large place.</li>
+<li>Kafi, one long day; large place.</li>
+<li>Waunakka, half a day; large place.</li>
+<li>Katturkoshi, half a day; very large place; river and rocky hills.</li>
+<li>Gaukisa, half a day; large place; river.</li>
+<li>Kauramoda, eight hours; large place; river.</li>
+<li>Pianchi, two hours; a sultan; river; large place.</li>
+<li>Kassara, half a day; small place; rivers.</li>
+<li>Gora, half a day; large place; a sultan.</li>
+<li>Bakura, half a day; a sultan; a river; large place.
+<a name="page354" id="page354"></a><span class="pageno">[354]</span></li>
+<li>Wangara, one hour; large place; river.</li>
+<li>Danshaura, half a day; large place; the same river from Katturkoshi to this place.</li>
+<li>Sakkatou, half a day.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<h4><i>Route from Sakkatou, westwards, to</i></h4>
+
+<ul class="inside">
+<li>Wurmu, one hour; large place.</li>
+<li>Kaiua, half a day; large place.</li>
+<li>Kalmalu, half a day; large place.</li>
+<li>Maranu, half a day; large place.</li>
+<li>Kussub-Buni, one long day; large place.</li>
+<li>Chinaka, half a day; large place.</li>
+<li>Dawakari, half a day; large place.</li>
+<li>Laka, half a day; large place.</li>
+<li>Gauasu, half a day; large place.</li>
+<li>Bodinga, half a day; large place.</li>
+<li>Sifaua, half a day; large place.</li>
+<li>Danchadi, half a day; large place.</li>
+<li>Dinkadi, half a day; large place.</li>
+<li>Rekina, eight hours; large place.</li>
+<li>Chifaua, half a day; large place.</li>
+<li>Chuni, half a day; large place.</li>
+<li>Wababi, half a day; large place.</li>
+<li>Dankai, half a day; large place.</li>
+<li>Kajiji, half a day; large place.</li>
+<li>Chagari, half a day; large place.</li>
+<li>Salaha, half a day; large place.</li>
+<li>Zuondu, half a day; large place.</li>
+<li>Tamboel, half a day; large place.<a name="page355" id="page355"></a><span class="pageno">[355]</span></li>
+<li>Kallamfaina, half a day: large place.</li>
+<li>Saiyinna, half a day; large place.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<p>These half days are about five hours. All that
+I could learn of this route is, that it goes westwards.
+The Fellatah tells me there is a good road from
+Sakkatou to Timbuctou, on which caravans are
+always going in great numbers.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<h4><i>Route from Kanou to Adamaua.</i></h4>
+
+<p>From Kanou, south, to</p>
+
+<ul class="inside">
+<li>G.<a name="anchor27" id="anchor27"></a><a href="#footnote27" class="fnanchor">[27]</a> Akwa,
+half a day, i.e. equal to about three or four hours.</li>
+<li>G. Del, half a day.</li>
+<li>S. Garwai, half a day.</li>
+<li>S. Tabti, half a day.</li>
+<li>G. Sabongari, half a day.</li>
+<li>G. Waram, half a day.</li>
+<li>G. Zarranda, half a day.</li>
+<li>G. Garu, capital of Boushi; name of the sultan Yokaba; half a day.</li>
+<li>S. Kaddara, half a day.</li>
+<li>S. Mankaiama, half a day.</li>
+<li>S. Yanyam, half a day.</li>
+<li>G. Serken Kuddu, half a day.</li>
+<li>G. Jab Jab, half a day.</li>
+<li>G. Bumanda, half a day.</li>
+<li>G. Jennowai, half a day.<a name="page356" id="page356"></a><span class="pageno">[356]</span></li>
+<li>G. Kadduna, half a day.</li>
+<li>G. Binnoi, half a day.</li>
+<li>Zungwan-dunia, half a day; resting-place; not a town.</li>
+<li>Zungwan-Kano, half a day; resting-place.</li>
+<li>Zungwan-Mageria, half a day; resting-place.</li>
+<li>Chikaji, half a day; resting-place.</li>
+<li>S. Akam, half a day.</li>
+<li>Yungwan-Bauna, half a day; resting-place; no town.</li>
+<li>S. Gangomai, half a day.</li>
+<li>Kogimagurji, half a day; resting-place.</li>
+<li>Koginbaba, half a day; resting-place.</li>
+<li>G. Rumji, half a day.</li>
+<li>G. Kwancha, half a day; river. Here begins Adamaua.</li>
+<li>G. Laro, half a day; river.</li>
+<li>G. Chamba, half a day; river.</li>
+<li>G. Turwa, half a day; river.</li>
+<li>G. Gurrin, half a day; river.</li>
+<li>G. Maiyabatta, half a day; river.</li>
+<li>G. Yola, half a day; river; the capital of the territories of Adamaua;
+residence of the sultan, called Mohammed Lauel.</li>
+</ul>
+
+
+<p>The route is reckoned seventeen days from Kanou
+to Kwancha, and three days from Kwancha to
+Yola.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<p><a name="page357" id="page357"></a><span class="pageno">[357]</span></p>
+
+<h4><i>Route from Sakkatou to Kabi, S.W.</i></h4>
+
+<ul class="inside">
+<li>Silami, 5 hours; large place.</li>
+<li>Quaido, 5 hours; large place.</li>
+<li>Ugi, one hour; a very considerable town.</li>
+<li>Argungu, 5 hours; large place.</li>
+<li>Gullema, 5 hours; large place.</li>
+<li>Sena, 5 hours; large place.</li>
+<li>Birni Kabi: large place.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<h4><i>Names of Places about Sakkatou, westwards.</i></h4>
+
+<ul class="inside">
+<li>Jeka, half a day.</li>
+<li>Alieru, 3 hours.</li>
+<li>Maddadi, 4 hours.</li>
+<li>Margai, 4 hours.</li>
+<li>Magagin Kada, 2 hours.</li>
+<li>Gommu-gommu, 4 hours.</li>
+<li>Binji, 2 hours.</li>
+<li>Kandai, 2 hours.</li>
+<li>Silami, half a day.</li>
+<li>Yabo, 5 hours.</li>
+<li>Dundaai, half a day.</li>
+<li>Quallai, 3 hours.</li>
+<li>Dagga, one long day.</li>
+<li>Indaba, half a day.</li>
+<li>Assara, one long day.</li>
+<li>Zaia, one long day.</li>
+<li>Manni, half a day.</li>
+<li>Durgalai, 2 hours.</li>
+<li>Killarai, 2 hours.</li>
+<li>Fadaita, half a day.</li>
+<li>Kotuturu, half a day.</li>
+<li>Tofa, half a day.</li>
+<li>Gidan Majibta, 2 hours.</li>
+<li>Maikuiaire, half a day.</li>
+<li>Kundus, 1 &frac12; hours.</li>
+<li>Quaquara, 2 hours.</li>
+</ul>
+
+<p>These are all considerable towns and villages.
+As to their relative position, I have merely written
+down how distant one is from the other.</p>
+
+<hr class="short" />
+
+<p><a name="page358" id="page358"></a><span class="pageno">[358]</span></p>
+
+<p>The following is a list which I have obtained
+of the Tibboo nations (or tribes):&mdash;</p>
+
+<ol>
+<li>Etteri, two days north of Kuka or Bornou.</li>
+<li>Gunda, seven days north from Bornou.</li>
+<li>Arinda, one day from Gunda.</li>
+<li>Yurimma, two days from Gunda.</li>
+<li>Wandala, three days east from Yurimma.</li>
+<li>Gaidua, four days east from Wandala.</li>
+<li>Mussaui, seven days east from Wandala.</li>
+<li>Sakkarta, seven days east from Wandala.</li>
+<li>Madema, two days east from Sakkarta (country of Kanum).</li>
+<li>Choiokkera, four days east from Madema.</li>
+<li>Tumbela, two days north from Gunda.</li>
+<li>Masella, eleven days north from Bornou (a country of dates).</li>
+<li>El-Wudda, one day from Marsella.</li>
+<li>Dummeya, thirty days east of Bornou (in Borgu).</li>
+<li>Zuaeda, the Tibesti people.</li>
+<li>Tamara, country of Bilma, &amp;c.</li>
+<li>Tauwia, two days north of Bilma.</li>
+<li>Etmada, one day north from Bilma.</li>
+<li>Addubocha, fifteen days east of Bilma.</li>
+<li>Fuktua, one day east from Addubocha.</li>
+<li>Abuya, two days north from Fuktua.<a name="page359" id="page359"></a><span class="pageno">[359]</span></li>
+<li>Belguda, eight days east of Bilma.</li>
+<li>Nuazma, three days east of Belguda.</li>
+<li>Karrai, three days east of Kameru, near the Chada.</li>
+</ol>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="footnote25" id="footnote25"></a><a href="#anchor25">[25]</a> In
+the former route, Basher is given as only three hours from
+Kuka. In the next route, Bagusu is made eight hours from Kuka,
+whilst a little back we have it set down at only half that distance.
+These discrepancies, of course, set geographers on their guard against
+placing any absolute dependence on native reports. I remember once
+questioning the inhabitants of a village in Egypt about the distance of
+a particular place. One said, five or six hours; others said, a short
+day; and others, a long day. However, by comparison of various
+statements, perhaps something like the truth may be reached.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="footnote26" id="footnote26"></a><a href="#anchor26">[26]</a> These
+countries seem very far south, and yet are said to be
+under the Sheikh. More information is required on this point.</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+<p><a name="footnote27" id="footnote27"></a><a href="#anchor27">[27]</a> G,
+large place, or town; S, small place, village. Dictated by
+the Fellatah horse-dealer, Nammadina.</p>
+</div>
+
+<hr />
+
+
+<h3>THE END.</h3>
+
+
+
+<p class="centre">LONDON: PRINTED BY G. BARCLAY, CASTLE ST. LEICESTER SQ.</p>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Narrative of a Mission to Central
+Africa Performed in the Years 1850-51, Volume 2, by James Richardson
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+</pre>
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+</body>
+</html>
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Narrative of a Mission to Central Africa
+Performed in the Years 1850-51, Volume 2, by James Richardson
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Narrative of a Mission to Central Africa Performed in the Years 1850-51, Volume 2
+       Under the Orders and at the Expense of Her Majesty's Government
+
+Author: James Richardson
+
+Release Date: June 9, 2006 [EBook #18544]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MISSION TO CENTRAL AFRICA ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Carlo Traverso, Annika Feilbach and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This
+file was produced from images generously made available
+by the Bibliotheque nationale de France (BnF/Gallica) at
+http://gallica.bnf.fr)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Transcriber's note:
+This text contains the unicode characters a, a, e and o in a few
+places. If any of these characters do not display for you properly,
+please see the Latin-1 text version for a transcription.]
+
+
+
+
+
+NARRATIVE OF A MISSION TO CENTRAL AFRICA
+PERFORMED IN THE YEARS 1850-51,
+
+UNDER THE ORDERS AND AT THE EXPENSE OF HER MAJESTY'S GOVERNMENT.
+
+
+BY THE LATE JAMES RICHARDSON,
+AUTHOR OF "TRAVELS IN THE GREAT DESERT OF SAHARA."
+
+
+IN TWO VOLUMES.
+
+VOL. II.
+
+LONDON:
+CHAPMAN AND HALL, 193 PICADILLY.
+
+MDCCCLIII.
+
+
+
+LONDON:
+Printed by G. Barclay, Castle St. Leicester Sq.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+Description of Tintalous and its Environs--Palace and
+Huts--Bedsteads--Kailouee Race--Unhandsome Conduct of Mr.
+Gagliuffi--Proposed Journey to Aghadez--Dr. Barth starts--An obstinate
+Bullock--Present extraordinary--State of Zinder--Affability of the
+Sultan--Power of Charms--Scorpions--Dialogue with a Ghatee--Splendid
+Meteors--Visit from En-Noor--Intrigues of the Fellatahs--A Sultan loaded
+with Presents--Talk of departing for Zinder--State of the Bornou
+Road--Division of a Bullock--Bottle of Rum stolen--More Visits from the
+Sultan--A Musical Entertainment--Curious Etymological Discussions--A
+wonderful Prophetess--Secret Societies--Magicians--The Evil
+Eye--Morality of Soudan--Magnificent Meteor--Stories of the Sfaxee.
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+Muslim want of Curiosity--Gossip on Meteors--A Family Broil--Rationale
+of Wife-beating--Abominable Dances--Evil Communications--Dr.
+Overweg--Kailouee Vocabulary--Windy Day--Account of Wadai--Madame
+En-Noor--Profits of Commerce--The letter _Ghain_--Fellatah
+Language--Introduction of Islamism--Desert Routes--Trade in Agate
+Stones--A lively Patient--The Eed--A Visit _en masse_--Arrival of the
+Boat--Butchers--Exchange of Visits with the Sultan--Diet--A Shereef--A
+delicate Request--Information on Maradee--Tesaoua--Itinerant
+Schoolmasters--En-Noor's Territory in Damerghou--Unpleasant
+Communication--Amulets--The Foundation of a City in the
+Desert--En-Noor's Political Pretensions.
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+News from Barth--Camels restored--Expensive Journey--Proposed Migration
+of Males--Supply of Slaves, whence--A new Well--Pagans and
+Christians--Tibboo Manners--The great Gong--When is a Tibboo
+hungry?--Hunger-belt--Queen of England in the Sahara--The Shanbah--A
+hasty Marriage--Said's new Wife--Wild Cauliflowers--Tolerance of the
+Kailouees--Men go to fetch Salt from Bilma--Approach of Dr.
+Barth--Lion's Mouth--Tibboos and Kailouees--Mysteries of
+Tintalous--Fewness of Men in Aheer--Trees preserved in the
+Valley--Bright Stars--Method of Salutation--Purposed Stars--Kailouee
+Character--Champagne at Tintalous--The Wells.
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+Dr. Barth's Journey to Aghadez--Description of the
+Route--Tiggedah--Luxuriant Scenery of Asadah--Plain of Tarist--Beautiful
+Valley--Buddeh--Small Caravan--Aghadez--its Inhabitants--their
+Occupation--The great Koku, or Sultan--Asbenouee Revolutions--Election
+of a Prince--Interview--Ceremony of Investiture--Razzia--Intricate
+Political System--Account of Aghadez--Mosque--Environs--Women--Tribes
+of Asben--The Targhee Family--Population of the Ghat
+Districts--of Aheer--The Oulimad and Tanelkums--Tribe of
+Janet--Haghar--Sagamaram--Maghatah--Extent of Aheer--Connexion
+with the Black Countries--Mechanism of Society in
+Aheer--Chieftains--Tax-gathering--Food of the
+Kailouees--Maharees--Amusements--Natural Features of
+Asben--Vegetation--Cultivation--Manufactures--Bags for Charms.
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+Projected Departure for Damerghou--False Start--Picturesque
+Caravan--Sultan's Views of White Skins--My Birthday--The Sultan fights
+his Battles over again--His Opinion of Women--Bragging--The Razzia on
+the Fadeea--Political News in the Desert--Cold Weather--Continue our
+Journey--Bornouese Fighis--Tin-Tagannu--Trap for a Lion--Mousa's
+Camels--A further Delay--Jackals and the Fire--Language of
+Signs--Tintalousian Coquettes--Departure of the Zinder Caravan--Natural
+Features--Languages--The Kilgris--Killing Lice--The Razzia to the
+North--Present of a Draught-board--Pagan Nations--Favourable Reports.
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+Medicine for Bad Eyes--A summary Proceeding--News from the
+Salt-Caravan--Towns and Villages of Tesaoua--Earthquakes--Presents for
+the Sultan of Maradee--Yusuf's Insolence--English Money in Aheer--A
+Razzia on the Holy City--Bornouese Studies--Gipsies of Soudan--En-Noor
+and the Marabouts--Ghaseb--State of the Weather--Calculations for the
+Future--Senna--Relations of Man and Wife in Aheer--En-Noor in his
+Family--Gouber and Maradee--Beer-drinking--Study of the Sau--Shara--The
+Oulimad--Lions--Translating Jokes--Digging a Well--Projects.
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+Razzia on the Fadeea--Haussa--Names of Places--Ant-track--Circular
+Letter from Mourzuk--Vast Rock--Mustapha Bey's Letter--Effects of
+Water--Butterflies--Aspect of the Country--A Slave advanced
+to Honour--Shonshona--Herbage--Birds--Appearance of the
+Salt-Caravan--Colours of Dawn--Bilma Salt--Mode of Barter--Pass the Rock
+of Mari--Granite--Indigo Plant--Presents at Stamboul--The Sultan begs
+again--Old Men's Importunities--Baghzem--Curiosities of the
+Route--People of Damerghou--Temporary Village of Women--Country begins
+to open--Barter Transaction with Lady En-Noor.
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+We continue our Journey--Huntsmen--Gum on the Tholukhs--The
+Salt-Caravan--A Bunch of Gum--Games among the
+Slaves--Baghzem--Trees--Palm of Pharaoh--Deserted Villages--Birds'
+Nests--Wife of En-Noor--Unan--Lizards--Bad News--Christmas
+day in Africa--Christmas-boxes--Begging Tuaricks
+again--Bargot--Musicians--Speculations--Tribes at War--Parasitical
+Plant--Importance of Salt--Animals--Agalgo--Force of the Caravan--Beat
+of Drum--Approach the Hamadah--Giraffes--Poisoned Arrows--Ear of
+Ghaseb--Soudan and Bornou Roads.
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+Enter the Hamadah--Home of the Giraffe--Water of
+Chidugulah--Turtles--Cool Wind--Jerboahs--Centre of the
+Sahara--New-year's Eve--Cold Weather--Birds of Prey--Soudan
+Date--Burs--Animals on the Plateau--Young Ostrich--The
+Tholukh-tree--Severe Cold--Eleven Ostriches--Termination of the
+Desert--Inasamet--The Tagama--Purchases--People begin to
+improve--Fruit of the Lote-tree--Village roofed with Skins--Vast
+Plain--Horses--Approach Damerghou--Village of Gumrek--Rough
+Customers--Wars of the Kilgris and Kailouees--A small
+Lake--Guinea-hens--Vultures--Party of Huntsmen.
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+My Barracan--Spontaneous Civility on arrival in Damerghou--Ghaseb
+Stubble--Cactus--Water-Melons--Party of Tuaricks--Boban Birni--Huts of
+Damerghou--Tagelel--Women of the Village--Population of the
+Country--Complaisant Ladies--Festivities--Aquatic Birds--Dancing--A
+Flatterer--A Slave Family--A new Reason for Wife-beating--Hazna
+Dancers--Damerghou, common ground--Purchase of Ghaseb--Dethroned
+Sultan--Yusuf--Mohammed Tunisee--Ophthalmia--Part with Barth and
+Overweg--Presents to Servants--Sheikh of Fumta--Yakobah
+Slave--Applications for Medicine--Boban Birni--Forest--At length enter
+Bornou ground--Daazzenai--Tuarick Respectabilities--Detachment of the
+Salt-Caravan.
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+March for Zinder--Enter the City--Reception--Delighted to escape from
+the Tuaricks--Letters from Kuka--Hospitable Treatment--Presents for the
+Sarkee and others--Visit the Shereef--His Duties--Audience of the
+Sarkee--Servility--Double-skulled Slave--Powder and Shot--Portrait of
+the Sultan--Commission from Kuka--European Clothes--Family of
+En-Noor--Tour of the Town--Scavengers--List of Sultans of Central
+Africa--Ancient Haussa--The Market--Money--Conversation
+with the Shereef--The Sultan at Home--Mixed Race of
+Zinder--Statistics--Personages of the Court.
+
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+Presents from Officials--Mode of treating Camels--Prices--Cowrie
+Money--Shereef Interpreter--Visits--Harem--Houses--Grand
+Vizier--Picturesque Dances--Tuaricks at Zinder--Kohlans and
+Fullans--Province of Zinder--Account of its Rebellions--Trees--Details
+on the Slave-trade--Prices--Mode of obtaining Slaves--Abject
+Respect of the Sultan--Visits--Interview with the Sarkee--The
+Presence--Curious Mode of administering Justice--Barbarous
+Punishments--Hyaenas--Gurasu--Fighis--Place of Execution--Tree of
+Death--Hyaena Dens--Dancing.
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+
+Brother of the Sultan--Trade of Zinder--Prices--The Sarkee drinks
+Rum--Five Cities--Houses of Zinder--Female Toilette--Another Tree of
+Death--Paganism--Severity of the Sultan--Lemons--Barth and
+Overweg--Fire--Brother of the Sarkee--Daura--Shonshona--Lousou--Slaves
+in Irons--Reported Razzia--Talk with the Shereef--Humble
+Manners--Applications for Medicines--Towns and Villages of Zinder--The
+great Drum--Dyers--Tuarick Visits--Rationale of Razzias--Slaves--"Like
+Prince like People"--French in Algiers--The Market--Old Slave--Infamous
+System--Plan of the great Razzia.
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV.
+
+Family of the Sarkee--Converted Jew--Hard Dealings--How to get rid of a
+Wife--Route to Tesaoua--Influence of Slavery--Prices of Aloes and
+Silk--Medicine for a Merchant--Departure of the Sarkee for the
+Razzia--Encampment--Mode of Fighting--Produce of Razzias--Story of the
+Tibboo--Sheikh Lousou--Gumel--Superstitions--Matting--Visit
+of Ladies--The Jew--Incendiaries--Hazna--Legend of Zinder
+Well--Kohul--Cousin of the Sheikh--Female Sheikh--State of the
+Country--Salutations.
+
+
+CHAPTER XV.
+
+Political News--Animals of Zinder--Sleepy City--District
+of Korgum--Razzias--Family of Sheikh Omer of
+Bornou--Brothers--Sons--Sisters--Daughters--Viziers--Kashallas--Power of
+the Sheikh--A Cheating Prince--Old Slave--Fetishism--Devil in a
+Tuarick's head--Kibabs--Fires--A Prophecy--Another Version of the
+Razzia--Correspondence between Korgum and Zinder.
+
+
+CHAPTER XVI.
+
+Sheikh of Bornou--Arab Women--News from the Razzia--Procession of
+newly-caught Slaves--Entrance of the Sarkee--Chained Slaves--My Servant
+at the Razzia--Audacity of Bornou Slaves--Korgum--Konchai--Product of
+the Razzia--Ghadamsee Merchants--Slave-trade--Incident at Korgum--State
+of Kanou--A Hue and Cry--Black Character--Vegetables at
+Zinder--Minstrel--Medi--Gardens--Ladies--Fanaticism--Americans at
+Niffee--Rich People--Tuaricks Sick--Morals--Dread of the
+Sarkee--Fashions.
+
+
+CHAPTER XVII.
+
+News from Tesaoua--Razzia on Sakkatou--Laziness in Zinder--The
+Hajah--Herds of Cattle--More Tuarick Patients--Gardens--My
+Luggage--Adieu to the Sarkee--Present from his Highness--Start from
+Zinder--Country--Birds--Overtake the Kashalla--Slaves for
+Kanou--Continue the Journey--People of Deddegi--Their Timidity--Horse
+Exercise--Cotton--Strange Birds--Occupation of Men and Women--State of
+African Society--Islamism and Paganism--Character of the Kashalla--A
+Dogberry--Guddemuni--Cultivation--Beggars--Dancing Maidens.
+
+
+CHAPTER XVIII.
+
+A Village plundered--Shaidega--Animals--Our Biscuit--Villages _en
+route_--Minyo--Respect for Learning--Monotony of the Country--A
+Wedding--Palsy--Slave-agents--Kal, Kal--Birni Gamatak--Tuaricks on the
+Plain--Palms--Sight the Town of Gurai--Bare Country--Bearings of various
+Places--Province of Minyo--Visit the Sultan--Audience-room--Fine
+Costume--A Scene of Barbaric Splendour--Trade--Estimate of Wealth--How
+to amuse a Prince--Small Present--The Oars carried by Men--Town of
+Gurai--Fortifications.
+
+
+CHAPTER XIX.
+
+Fezzanee Traders--Sultan in want of Medicine--The Stud--Letters--Yusuf's
+Conduct--Architecture--Fragment of the History of Minyo--Politics
+of Zinder--Bornouese Fish--Visits--Two Routes--Dancing by
+Moonlight--Richness--Fires--Information on Boushi and Adamaua--The
+Yamyam--Liver Complaints--A Girl's Game--Desert Country--Gift Camel--Few
+Living Creatures--Village of Gusumana--Environs--The Doom
+Fruit--Brothers of Sultan of Sakkatou--Stupid Kadi--Showing off--Hot
+Weather--[Final Note--Death of Mr. Richardson.]
+
+
+APPENDIX.
+
+
+
+
+
+NARRATIVE OF A MISSION TO CENTRAL AFRICA
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+Description of Tintalous and its Environs--Palace and
+Huts--Bedsteads--Kailouee Race--Unhandsome Conduct of Mr.
+Gagliuffi--Proposed Journey to Aghadez--Dr. Barth starts--An obstinate
+Bullock--Present extraordinary--State of Zinder--Affability of the
+Sultan--Power of Charms--Scorpions--Dialogue with a Ghatee--Splendid
+Meteors--Visit from En-Noor--Intrigues of the Fellatahs--A Sultan loaded
+with Presents--Talk of departing for Zinder--State of the Bornou
+Road--Division of a Bullock--Bottle of Rum stolen--More Visits from the
+Sultan--A Musical Entertainment--Curious Etymological Discussions--A
+wonderful Prophetess--Secret Societies--Magicians--The Evil
+Eye--Morality of Soudan--Magnificent Meteor--Stories of the Sfaxee.
+
+
+I begin at length to consider myself as it were at home in this singular
+country of Aheer--without, however, experiencing any desire to dally
+here longer than the force of circumstances absolutely requires. It must
+be confessed, as I have already hinted, that the town of Tintalous,[1]
+in front of which we are encamped, does not at all answer the idea which
+our too active imagination had formed. Yet it is a singular place. It is
+situated on rocky ground, at the bend of a broad valley, which in the
+rainy season becomes often-times the bed of a temporary river. Here and
+there around it are scattered numerous trees, many of considerable size,
+giving the surface of the valley something of a park-like appearance.
+The herbage is not rich, but it is ornamental, and refreshes the eye in
+contrast with the black, naked rocks, which rise on all hands to the
+height often of two or three thousand feet. To the east, it is true, the
+country is a little open; and between the mountains run in numerous
+white sandy wadys, sprinkled with fresh green plants, or shaded by
+various species of mimosa and other spreading trees, under which the
+shepherds and herdsmen find shelter from the sun.
+
+  [1] Tintalous is 40 short and 30 long days from Ghat, N.N.E.;
+      60 short and 50 long from Mourzuk, N.E.; 20 short, 15 long,
+      from Zinder or Damerghou, S.S.W.; 7 long, 10 or 12 short,
+      from Bilma, E.; 38 to 45 days from Tuat, N.W. (_via_
+      Taghajeet). Maharees, of course, trot and gallop in half
+      the time. These are native statements.
+
+The principal feature of Tintalous itself is what may be called the
+palace of En-Noor. It is, indeed, one, compared with the huts and stone
+hovels amidst which it is placed. The materials are stone plastered with
+mud, and also the wood of the mimosa tree. The form is an oblong square,
+one story high, with an interior courtyard, and various appendages and
+huts around on the outside. There is another house, and also a mosque
+built in the same style, but much smaller. Of the rest of the
+habitations, a few are stone sheds, but the greater part are huts made
+of the dry stalks of the fine herb called bou rekabah, in the form of a
+conical English haystack, and are very snug, impervious alike to rain
+and sun. There are not more than one hundred and fifty of these huts and
+sheds, scattered over a considerable space, without any order; some are
+placed two or three together within a small enclosure, which serves as a
+court or yard, in which visitors are received and cooking is carried on.
+There is another little village at a stone's-throw north. The
+inhabitants of these two villages consist entirely of the slaves and
+dependants of En-Noor.
+
+All around Tintalous, within an hour or two hours' ride, there are
+villages or towns of precisely the same description, more or less
+numerously peopled. At Seloufeeat and Tintaghoda, however, we saw more
+houses built of stone and mud. This may be accounted for by the fact
+that the inhabitants are not nearly so migratory as those of Tintalous,
+who often follow in a body the motions of their master, so that he is
+ever surrounded by an imposing household.
+
+I must not omit mentioning an important article of furniture which is to
+be observed in all the houses of Aheer--namely, the bedstead. Whilst
+most of the inhabitants of Fezzan lie upon skins or mats upon the
+ground, the Kailouees have a nice light palm-branch bedstead, which
+enables them to escape the damp of the rainy season, and the attack of
+dangerous insects and reptiles like the scorpion and the lefa.
+
+I shall hereafter make a few observations on the tribes inhabiting
+Aheer. Here I will note that they are all called Targhee, that is
+Tuarick, by the traders of the north; and that the predominant race is
+the Kailouee. To me the latter seems to be a mixture of the Berbers, or
+supposed aborigines of the northern coast, with all the tribes and
+varieties of tribes of the interior of Africa. This may account for
+their having less pride and stiffness than the Tuaricks of Ghat, who are
+purer Berbers; as well as for their disposition to thieving and petty
+larceny, of which I have recently been obliged to give some examples.
+The pure Berbers, likewise, are much less sensual than their bastard
+descendants, who seem, indeed, to have no idea of pleasure but in its
+grossest shape.
+
+The Kailouees are, for the most part, tall and active, little encumbered
+by bulky bodies; some having both complexion and features nearly
+European. At any rate there are many as fair-looking as the Arabs
+generally, whilst others are quite negro in colour. The women are
+smaller and stouter; some are fattened like the Mooresses of the coast,
+and attain to an enormous degree of _embon-point_. They are not
+ill-looking, but offer nothing remarkable in their forms.
+
+I have already set down many particulars of manners, and shall proceed
+to do so in the same disjointed way. At a future time all these traits
+must be collected to form one picture.[2] For the present I am anxious
+about the future progress of the Mission, and impatient, at any rate, to
+hear some news of our advance. We cannot do all the things we would. Our
+position is almost that of prisoners. We must depend entirely on the
+caprice of En-Noor, who, however, may already have laid out his plans
+distinctly, though he does not choose to communicate them to us.
+
+  [2] Perhaps the note-books of Mr. Richardson, in which facts
+      are set down fresh and distinct just as they presented
+      themselves, will be found to be more interesting than an
+      elaborate narrative. At any rate it has seemed better not
+      to attempt to do what was left undone in this matter.--ED.
+
+_Oct. 2d._--We have been lately discussing the practicability of going
+to Sakkatou, on a visit to the Sultan Bello; and this morning I looked
+over, for the first time, some "letters of credit" which Mr. Gagliuffi,
+our plausible consul at Mourzuk, had given me. I found that the amount
+offered for the use of the expedition in Kanou does not exceed a hundred
+and fifty reals of Fezzan, or about twenty pounds sterling, and that the
+agent is expressly requested not to advance any more! This extraordinary
+document induced me to look further, and it soon appeared that the
+documents on which I relied so much were mere delusions. The wording of
+the Arabic letter to Bornou was ambiguous; but in as far as I and my
+interpreter could make it out, Haj Bashaw, to whom it is addressed, was
+requested, if he had any money of Mr. Gagliuffi's in hand, to give me _a
+little_! I really did not expect that a person in whom I had placed so
+much confidence would play me this trick. But it seems that Levantines
+are and will be Levantines to the end of time. I have written to
+Government, complaining of this unworthy conduct.
+
+_3d._--Dr. Barth is about to take advantage of the delay necessarily
+incurred at Tintalous to visit Aghadez, the real capital of Aheer, to
+which the new Sultan has lately been led, and where his investiture will
+shortly be celebrated. This journey will extend our knowledge of this
+singular Saharan country, and may also be of advantage in procuring the
+signature of the Sultan to a treaty of commerce.
+
+_4th._--Dr. Barth started this morning in company with Hamma, Waled Ocht
+En-Noor (son of the sister of En-Noor). The departure took place in
+presence of the Sultan himself, who had come to take tea with me. The
+caravan was at first composed of bullocks, the camels being a little in
+advance on the road. Our friend the Doctor started astride on one of
+these animals, which are a little difficult to manage, especially when
+they have been out at grass for some time. Indeed, in the first place,
+it is no easy matter to catch them from amongst the herds; then it is
+hard to load them; and then, though not often, they refuse to proceed.
+On this occasion a powerful brute proved absolutely unmanageable.
+En-Noor, seeing its obstinacy, exclaimed that he gave it to me to kill
+and eat. He afterwards, however, modified his gift, and said that the
+bullock was also to be distributed amongst the Arabs of the caravans now
+in Tintalous; and that we were to give a turban as a present to the
+herdsman. I was told that, in the meantime, representation had been made
+to him, to the effect that it was unfair to distinguish the Christians
+in this manner. Soon after the animal was given it ran away, and no one
+could catch it.
+
+Well, the bullock caravan went off in good style; and Sultan En-Noor
+remained taking his tea and eating English pickles and marmalade with
+me. He drank the tea and ate the other delicacies with evident pleasure,
+not being afraid, like the greater part of his subjects, to eat the food
+of Christians. Possession of power seems to have one good effect--the
+destruction of prejudice; pity that it sometimes goes further and
+destroys belief. En-Noor told us that the Sultan of Asoudee had gone out
+on a razzia to the west. We are obliged to hope that it will be
+successful, as otherwise our affairs will most materially suffer. We
+talked also of the state of Zinder, which is represented to be a walled
+town, with seven gates built amidst and around some huge rocks. The
+governor, Ibrahim, keeps fifty drummers at work every night, but whether
+with a purpose superstitious or political I do not know.
+
+En-Noor admired much the portraits of the personages who figure in the
+accounts of the former expedition to this part of the world,
+particularly that of Clapperton. He had also a wonderful story to tell
+of this traveller's magic. He said that Abdallah (Clapperton's
+travelling name) had learned from his books the site of his (En-Noor's)
+father's house, that near it was a gold mine, and that he had intended
+to come and give intelligence of this treasure. "See!" exclaimed the
+Sultan, "what wonderful things are written in the books of the
+Christians!"
+
+My young fighi (or writer of charms) tells me, as a secret, that he
+cannot write a talisman for himself, but must ask another of the
+brotherhood to do this for him. Neither in this place can physicians
+heal themselves. This civil youth made me a present of a piece of his
+workmanship to-day, observing, "There is great profit in its power; it
+will preserve you from the cut of the sword and the firing of the gun."
+I pray not to have occasion to test its efficacy, but hope it may also
+serve as a protection from the bite of scorpions, which are so plentiful
+about here, and are said, at this season, to jump like grasshoppers.
+According to the people of Tintalous there are three species of them,
+each distinguished by a different colour--black, red, and yellow.
+Despite the talk of these disgusting reptiles I went in the evening to
+see the wells which supply Tintalous with water. They are nothing more
+than holes scooped out of the sand in the bed of the wady, and supplied
+by _ma-el-matr_, "rain-water," which collects only a few feet under the
+sand, and passes through no minerals.
+
+I afterwards proceeded to the encampment of the slave caravan, which is
+going in a few days to Ghat. A native of that place--the chief,
+indeed--was exceedingly rude at our first rencounter, and the following
+dialogue took place:--
+
+_The Ghatee._ Where are you going?
+
+_Myself._ I am going to Sakkatou.
+
+_The Ghatee._ What for?
+
+_Myself._ To see the Sultan, who is my friend.
+
+_The Ghatee._ How do you know him?
+
+_Myself._ The English have known him for years past.
+
+_The Ghatee._ Ah!
+
+_Myself._ Yes.
+
+_The Ghatee._ Have you any dollars--large dollars? (making a large
+circle with his thumb and forefinger.)
+
+_Myself._ No: I don't carry money to Soudan, which is of no use to me.
+There I shall have wada.
+
+_Ghatee._ Eh! Eh! But cannot you give me a turban?
+
+_Myself._ No, I am not a merchant, I don't bring such things; go to the
+Arab merchants and buy.
+
+_Ghatee._ Um! Um!
+
+_Myself._ Do you know Mohammed Kafa in Ghat?
+
+_Ghatee._ Oh, yes!
+
+_Myself._ He is my friend.
+
+_Ghatee._ Allah!
+
+_Myself._ Yes; he sent me a fine dinner twice whilst I was in Ghat.
+
+_Ghatee._ Allah! Allah!
+
+_Myself._ Do you know Haj Ibrahim? He is my great friend.
+
+_Ghatee._ Allah! Allah! (greatly surprised).
+
+_Myself._ Why, how is it that you do not know me, Yakob, as I have
+been in Ghat many years before?
+
+At this some of the other people of the caravan cried out, "Yes, yes, we
+all know Yakob;" so that I left the rude slave-merchant quite
+crest-fallen. He evidently, at first, wished to assume the airs of a
+Haghar, and bully me out of a present.
+
+The caravan consisted of some thirty poor young women and children.
+There was also with them a small quantity of elephants' teeth.
+
+Now that the moon is absent and the nights are clear we have a most
+splendid view of the heavens, its stars and constellations. The number
+of meteors darting to and fro overhead is very great--nearly one a
+minute shoots along. Some are only a faint glimmer, and have but the
+existence of a moment, whilst others are very beautiful and last several
+seconds.
+
+_5th._--The weather is improving; the strong gusts of wind have ceased,
+and so has the rain. We have now calm and fine days with moderate heat.
+
+In the afternoon I received another visit from En-Noor, who came
+straight into my tent, like an old friend whom I had known for twenty
+years. He stopped with me at least an hour, drinking tea and smoking,
+chatting the while about his past history and present affairs. He
+reiterated again assurances of his friendship for the English, and his
+determination to remain the ally of the Queen of England! He referred to
+the time when the great Bello, sultan of Sakkatou, sent his ambassador
+to request him (En-Noor) and all his people to subject themselves to the
+Fellatahs. En-Noor gave him for answer, "I am under God, the servant of
+God, and shall not submit myself to you or to any one upon earth. My
+father, and grandfather, and great-grandfather, and all my ancestors,
+ruled here, and were the servants of God, and I shall follow in their
+steps." The Fellatahs then tried to seduce the people, but they all
+said, "We have one Sultan, that is En-Noor." All the other authorities
+of Aheer followed the example, and preserved their independence, the
+people everywhere arming themselves with whatever weapons they had in
+case a war should break out.
+
+After this narrative, En-Noor spoke again of the English, and said he
+should send a maharee for the Queen.
+
+I gave him a fancy ring of the value of threepence, with a mock diamond
+in it, which he immediately put on his finger with as much glee and
+pride as the gayest Parisian coquette. Yusuf and the Sfaxee, being
+present, swore it was _diamanti_; but I am quite sure the old Sheikh
+understood the compliment. I also gave him a pair of bellows, a basin,
+and a pint bottle with a little oil it; with all these things he was
+greatly delighted, continually admiring and trying the bellows. When he
+went out of the tent he himself carried all these articles away under
+his arm.
+
+With reference to our wish to start for Zinder, the Sultan says he will
+send immediately for the boat, that it may be ready by the time Dr.
+Barth returns from Aghadez, when he is determined himself to take that
+route. He seems now in the enjoyment of good health. I felt much
+satisfied with his visit. Certainly, when I reflect that in the northern
+frontier of Aheer we were pursued for several days, like monsters not
+fit to live, by armed bands, this appears to me extraordinary
+condescension on the part of En-Noor. I hope we shall part in a friendly
+manner. This worthy sovereign gives the present Sultan of Sakkatou, Ali
+Bello, the character of a miser, but says that his father was a man of
+liberality. He cannot exceed En-Noor himself in greediness.
+
+The bad state of the Bornou route is accounted for by the desire the
+Kailouees have to render it unsafe, so that they may have all the
+caravans come along their own route. The same thing is said of the
+Timbuctoo route from Soudan. The Haghar murder all who attempt to go
+from Soudan to Timbuctoo, in order that the caravans may pass Ghat and
+Tuat. This is called the natural explanation of the bad character of
+these routes.
+
+_6th._--I continue to record the few characteristic incidents of my
+residence at Tintalous. Our bullock has been at last killed. We could
+not catch him, but shot him down. The carcase was divided between no
+less than twenty persons, and the meat proved to be pretty good. Of my
+share I made steaks, which I washed down with some tea and rum. This is
+the first time we have had fresh beef since leaving Tripoli. The event
+created an immense sensation throughout the whole town of Tintalous, for
+the slaughter of a bullock does not take place there every day.
+
+This morning I administered two ounces of Epsom salts to a good-natured
+Kailouee, who, although perfectly well, would persist in begging for
+medicine. These people are continually asking to be doctored when
+nothing ails them. En-Noor seems to have taken a fancy to our morning
+beverages, and has sent for tea and coffee. I am afraid he will become a
+regular customer. Yusuf carried off a bottle of rum from the tent in the
+evening, which occasioned a disturbance between the servants and myself.
+This worthy is not to be trusted with the care of any strong liquor. The
+little Hamadee was privy to the theft. In the course of the evening the
+_new moon_ was seen by seven creditable persons, so that in eight days
+more we shall have the Feast of the "Descent of the Koran from Heaven,"
+and four or five days after that we hope to start for Zinder.
+
+_7th._--This was a fine morning, with the thermometer at sunrise in the
+tent 70 deg.; outside, 66 deg.. The water has been so cooled during the night
+that my hands ached when I washed them. Later in the season it will be
+yet colder; and all reports tell us that in Kanou after the rains it is
+often very chilly.
+
+His highness the Sultan again was attracted by my tea and marmalade, and
+gave me a call. He desired to see once more the portrait of Clapperton,
+and told me that Abdallah had five women in Sakkatou, and had left
+behind him three children, all boys. The Sultan was excessively friendly
+in manner, which induced me to make him another little present of a ring
+set with paste, and a small pair of gilt scissors for one of his wives.
+He calls me his brother, and manifests increased anxiety to be friendly
+with the English. According to him, a short time since the Sheikh of
+El-Fadeea, who commanded the attack made on us at the frontier, came
+here; and, in consideration of a few presents and compliments, had
+promised to exert himself to procure the restoration of our lost or
+stolen camels. En-Noor also again talked about the boat. I am in great
+hopes that we shall part from him on good terms, and that he will be
+true to his protestations. There is generally a companion with the old
+gentleman on these visits. This time it was an aged Tanelkum, who
+married a sister of the Sheikh and has been settled many years in the
+country. We gave him more tea, and also a piece of white sugar, to carry
+home.
+
+This evening the Fezzan and Tripoli Arabs had a musical entertainment,
+accompanied with dancing, at which Madame En-Noor and several
+distinguished ladies of Tintalous assisted. It was the usual singing
+business, with Moorish hammering on tambourines. The dance was performed
+by men, mostly in imitation of the women, and was also of the usual
+inelegant and indelicate description. However, there was a little mixing
+of the derwish dances. The thing went off to the great satisfaction of
+the Kailouees, and was kept up till midnight.
+
+_8th._--I slept little after the villanous dancing and riot of the
+preceding night, and rose late. My occupation this day was completing my
+vocabulary of the Kailouee language, of which I expect to collect a
+thousand words. My interpreter sometimes gives very curious explanations
+when I work with him. The Arabic word which we translate "Alas!" coming
+under consideration, he observed: "There is no corresponding word in the
+languages of these countries. This word belongs to the Koran and the
+next world." He means, that the word has only a relation to the torment
+of the damned. It is curious that this Arabic term agrees with, or is
+like, our word _wail_ (Ar. _weel_), and is the term used by our
+translators of the New Testament in describing the torments of the lost,
+"Weeping and _wailing_" &c.
+
+Of the term "chaste," Yusuf observed, "There is no such expression in
+these languages; all the women are alike, and equally accessible when
+danger is absent." It is also true that the men place no bounds to their
+sensual appetites, and are restrained only by inability. It may be,
+however, that the more religious would have some scruples about
+intriguing with their neighbours' wives.
+
+When we came to the word "school" Yusuf pretended there was not such a
+word in Kailouee. He asked, "Where in Tintalous is there a school?" The
+question, unfortunately, is put with too much truth. The Kailouees
+hereabouts seem entirely to neglect education.
+
+I myself observe that the Arabic _booss_ answers exactly to the vulgar
+word in English for _kiss_.[3] The name of a raven is one of many
+remarkable examples of a word being chosen to imitate in sound some
+peculiarity of the thing signified. In this case, _kak_ irresistibly
+reminds one of the raven's croaking voice; which we describe by _caw_.
+_Kass_, scissors, is also an imitation of the sound produced by this
+instrument in cutting.
+
+  [3] A good many similarities of this kind, accidental or
+      otherwise, might be pointed out: _ydrub_ is "to drub;"
+      _kaab_ would be translated, in old English, "kibe;"
+      _ykattah_ is "to cut;" _kotta_, "a cat;" _bak_, "a bug;"
+      _stabl_, "a stable," &c. &c. I have noticed, also, some
+      similarities with French words e.g. _ykassar_,
+      "casser"--ED.
+
+In the evening the Sfaxee and Yusuf came to pay us a visit, and related
+divers sorts of wonders of this and other countries of Africa. The first
+matter concerned us. Eight days ago died in Tintalous an old witch, or
+prophetess, a negress, who foretold our arrival, and said to En-Noor, "A
+caravan of Englishmen is on the road from Tripoli, coming to you." This
+woman for many years was a foreteller of future events. The next thing
+we heard referred to the secret societies of Central Africa. Some of the
+chiefs of these societies have the power of killing with their eyes. One
+of these fellows is known to have gone to a merchant, in whose arms was
+sleeping a pretty female slave, and to have entered into conversation
+with him, asking him how he was, &c. In the meanwhile the wizard cast
+his eyes upon the pretty slave, and its heart withered. This power is
+accordingly much dreaded. If, however, any one perceive the incantation
+of the wizard, and say, "Begone, you son of a brach!" he immediately
+flees, like a dog with his tail between his legs.
+
+In parts of Bornou, also, extraordinary things sometimes happen. There
+are men in those places who have the power of assuming the shapes of
+wild animals. This they do mostly in the nights. Under the form of lions
+and leopards, they go to the tents of strangers, and endeavour to lure
+them forth by calling out their proper names with a perfect human voice.
+If any one is so imprudent as to obey summons and issue forth, he is at
+once devoured.
+
+The Sfaxee pledges his word of honour that there was a female slave a
+year ago in Mourzuk who killed five of her companions with her looks. On
+this a council was held by the merchants and great people of Mourzuk, to
+know what to do with her, and the decision come to was to send her back
+to Bornou; a happy decision for the poor slave! Lucky for her that she
+was not born in some parts of Europe, with her marvellous power. Even
+our friend Gagliuffi has not escaped these superstitions of the people
+among whom he lives. On my seeing his young turkeys for the first time,
+in very considerable numbers, I exclaimed, "What a host of young turkeys
+you have got!" On this he became quite alarmed, lest I had cast a malign
+look upon them, and ejaculated a counter-exclamation, "Oh, God bless
+them!"
+
+The Sfaxee and Yusuf do not speak very favourably of some parts of
+Soudan as to morality. In some districts of Begarmi, Yusuf says, a male
+takes the first female he meets with, no matter how near the
+relationship. All the women, in fact, are in common. We must receive his
+asseverations for what they are worth, on this subject in general, and
+on the developements into which he entered. According to him, in those
+regions where scarcely any other roof is required but the heavens, there
+is no other couch spread than the earth, and no one shuns, in any act of
+life, the eyes of his neighbours.
+
+Whilst these wonders of witches and tales of African lewdness were being
+related, a thing happened which none could disbelieve, none call in
+question. This was the appearance of an immense meteor in the sky,
+shooting over half the heavens, with a slight curve, from east to west.
+It had a tail like a comet, and around its head burnt a blue light of
+excessive brilliancy. This phenomenon appeared at a quarter to eight
+o'clock in the evening. I never saw anything like it before, and perhaps
+shall never again see its equal. It might have been visible two minutes.
+We all cried out with surprise at beholding it. We had our faces towards
+the south, and the course of the meteor was across the south, but not
+very high, at about the third of the circle of the heavens. Afterwards,
+every few minutes, small meteors were seen sporting about in the same
+direction, some in a straight line and others descending.
+
+_9th._--The wind of this fine cool morning prevented a visit from
+En-Noor. That he might not be disappointed, however, I sent him his
+customary tea; and amused myself by hearing the Sfaxee discourse of that
+constant subject of conversation, the attack of the Fadeea. According to
+him, on that occasion great fear was felt by all the caravan. Most of
+our servants had formed the resolution to abandon us. There were,
+however, some honourable exceptions; amongst the rest, Said, the great
+mahadee, and another. Yusuf and Mohammed Tunisee proposed the plan, that
+we three, the Germans, and myself, should be mounted on maharees, and
+either conveyed back to Aisou or forward to Tintaghoda, during the
+night. Some of the Kailouees wavered, as well as the Tanelkums; but
+En-Noor (of our escort) always declared that he would never consent to
+our being given up. The next morning, two or three of the assailants
+were very bold, and came and called out in an authoritative tone, that
+we must be given up. It is curious that, in spite of all the force that
+was mustered against us, as soon as they saw that we were determined to
+resist them, they immediately began to parley. The Sfaxee is an immense
+talker, and great allowance must be made for what he says. In reality,
+we shall never be able to know the exact truth with respect to this
+affair. Dr. Overweg confesses that he was terribly alarmed as well he
+might be. For my part, I was more used to desert dangers, and slept all
+night. Dr. Barth very kindly refused to allow anybody to awaken me.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+Muslim want of Curiosity--Gossip on Meteors--A Family Broil--Rationale
+of Wife-beating--Abominable Dances--Evil Communications--Dr.
+Overweg--Kailouee Vocabulary--Windy Day--Account of Wadai--Madame
+En-Noor--Profits of Commerce--The letter _Ghain_--Fellatah
+Language--Introduction of Islamism--Desert Routes--Trade in Agate
+Stones--A lively Patient--The Eed--A Visit _en masse_--Arrival of the
+Boat--Butchers--Exchange of Visits with the Sultan--Diet--A Shereef--A
+delicate Request--Information on Maradee--Tesaoua--Itinerant
+Schoolmasters--En-Noor's Territory in Damerghou--Unpleasant
+Communication--Amulets--The Foundation of a City in the
+Desert--En-Noor's Political Pretensions.
+
+
+_Oct. 10th._--My garrulous friend the Sfaxee has gone off this morning,
+to bring his merchandise from Tintaghoda. The little fighi came, as
+usual, to see me. I showed him the Arabic New Testament. He read a few
+sentences, and then laid the book aside. I offered it to him, but he
+refused to accept the inestimable present. He represents the feelings of
+all the Muslims of these countries. They have not even any _curiosity_
+to know the contents of the Gospel, much less the inclination to study
+or appreciate them. They remain in a state of immovable, absolute
+indifference. Even the beautiful manner in which the Arabic letters are
+printed scarcely excites their surprise. En-Noor paid me his usual
+morning visit, drank tea, and ate pickles and marmalade. We asked him
+about meteors. He recollects the fall of many. One, he says, fell upon a
+house, and terrified the inhabitants, who came running to him.
+Afterwards they dug to the depth of a man, and found nothing, for it had
+buried itself deep in the earth. According to him, a great profusion of
+meteors denotes abundance of rain and herbage: but these phenomena exert
+also a sinister influence like comets, signifying the death of some
+great personage. I have no doubt that extraordinary meteors are very
+frequent in this part of the Sahara. En-Noor was very condescending, as
+usual: no change is observable in his manners.
+
+It turned out that he had come with the intention of speaking on a very
+delicate subject, but had refrained. We learned what it was afterwards.
+Dr. Overweg was sent for in the course of the day to attend upon one of
+En-Noor's wives, who had been frightfully beaten by his highness the
+previous evening. This domestic broil formed the common topic of
+conversation in Tintalous. Every scandal-monger has got hold of one
+version of the story. From what we could gather, the great man was lying
+down quietly, when suddenly, without any apparent provocation, he
+started up, took a large stick from the fire, one of its ends still
+burning, and with this terrific weapon belaboured his wife over the
+face, striking especially at the mouth, and cutting the upper lip in
+two. The poor woman is now very ill. No cause can be discovered for this
+piece of brutality. En-Noor has, they pretend, two wives here, and one
+on his estate at Damerghou; but he has only one son and three daughters.
+No larger family has this great man, with all his wealth and slaves,
+been able to bring up.
+
+Beating a wife is so common in these countries, that, only when the act
+is attended with features of unusual atrocity, as in this case of
+En-Noor, does it excite any attention. There cannot be a question of the
+fact, that our friend the Sultan is a great despot in every point of
+view. Perhaps in no other way could he maintain any authority amongst
+these semi-barbarian Kailouees. This, nevertheless, cannot excuse the
+atrocity of beating his wife with burning fagots. Some say that the
+exciting cause of his brutality was the eternal loquacity of the woman,
+of which his highness began to be afraid. This may be true, or be only
+an excuse invented by his courtiers. Supposing, however, the cause to
+have been her _infidelity_, let us examine what can be reasonably
+expected from these African women. They are not allowed scarcely to
+believe themselves to possess souls; they have no moral motives to be
+chaste, and certainly none of family and honour, being mostly slaves.
+Then the greater part of the young girls of consequence are married to
+old men, who are worn out by their sensual habits and indulgence with
+innumerable concubines. These young women are thus left, though married,
+like so many widows, without education or religious motives, and with
+all their passions alive, to the first opportunity which presents
+itself. We know what they do, and we cannot expect anything else from
+them.
+
+We have often dancing now of evenings. Yesterday, hearing the
+tambourines and other instruments strike up, I went to the house of the
+Sfaxee to see what was going on. They were dancing again their Mourzuk
+dances before a number of delighted Kailouees, male and female; amongst
+the rest Lady En-Noor herself. The whole beauty and appropriateness of
+this exercise amongst the Moors consists, as is well known, in gross
+imitations of natural acts. No further description or comment can I
+permit myself. I have often thought that the present dance must be an
+inheritance from very ancient times. There seems to be a part of our
+nature to which it is adapted. The performances at European Operas are
+often nearly as indelicate.
+
+Evil communications corrupt good manners. One of our servants has
+learned to act the Tuarick. He quarrelled with Yusuf, and on being told
+to go away replied, "Yes. I will go; but when you get up to Damerghou I
+will bring down the people upon these Christians, and they shall be
+eaten up!"
+
+_11th._--Zangheema, En-Noor's principal slave, came early this morning
+for Dr. Overweg, that he might attend the "beaten wife." My privileged
+friend went accordingly, and visited at the same time all the women of
+the household. They received him in a very friendly manner: some of them
+proved nearly white.
+
+_12th._--This day I finished my Kailouee vocabulary, which contains
+about a thousand words. I have never yet collected so large a quantity
+of materials of any of the languages of Africa. I carefully packed up my
+vocabulary for England, and got it ready, with other matters, to send by
+the first opportunity.
+
+Dr. Overweg has again visited the belaboured wife this morning, and
+reports her to be improving. The Sultan seems now to repent what he has
+done, and is endeavouring to obtain forgiveness by kind and courteous
+behaviour.
+
+There was a great deal of wind to day, but it did not come in puffs,
+endangering our tents. I sometimes wonder, however, how the flimsy huts
+of which part of Tintalous is composed are not swept away. They are made
+of the dry stalk of that excellent herb bou rekabah, called in Kailouee
+_afada_.
+
+_13th._--No news stirring to-day; nothing said of razzias; so much the
+better. We are living very quietly here, and the climate agrees with me
+extremely well. Some of our people, however, are sick.
+
+_14th._--The mornings continue cold; 65 deg. outside the tent, and a few
+degrees higher inside. This fresh weather, no doubt, accounts for my
+good health.
+
+According to a Tibboo merchant now here, and going with our caravan, the
+people of Wadai would receive a Christian well, and allow him to visit
+their country. He represents Wadai as a very rocky region, like Aheer,
+with two large rivers in it running from south to north--not season
+streams, but continual. He says that the people are all blacks, and a
+very tall race. They have a language of their own, which is difficult to
+learn. Warrah is the capital. The natives drink a great deal of _bouza_,
+and are nearly always intoxicated. Such is a summary account of Wadai
+from the mouth of a Tibboo geographer.
+
+This morning, Madame En-Noor sent me by Zangheema a pair of pewter
+earrings, in exchange for some rings. It is extremely difficult to make
+a good bargain with these people. With respect to our merchandise, it
+all sells lower here than we paid for it at Mourzuk. The profits come
+from the purchase of slaves. A burnouse of forty mahboubs will sell in
+Soudan for little more than its cost, if dollars or money is to be
+given; but if slaves are taken in exchange, three slaves, perhaps, may
+be obtained, which, in Tripoli, may be sold at forty or fifty dollars
+each. Hence the profit of the Soudan commerce. The article which yields
+the greatest profit is loaf sugar, which, costing half a dollar in
+Mourzuk, is said to sell for a full dollar in Bornou. To be sure there
+is all the risk and the heavy freight of such an article, especially if
+conveyed up during the rainy season.
+
+I wrote yesterday a despatch to Government, requesting letters of
+recommendation to be sent up to me in Kordofan, pointing out the route
+of Egypt as the probable one by which I shall return to the
+Mediterranean. I had a long dispute with Overweg about the letter
+_ghain_, which he persists in pronouncing like a strong _k_. Yusuf was
+called in, and declared that the _ghain_ was the letter which
+distinguished Arabic from all other languages. In Kailouee Tuarick there
+is no _kaf_ or _ghain_. These Berber dialects have, however, the hard
+_g_ in a thousand words, and have also the _k_ in a great number of
+cases, but the hard _g_ and the _t_ are the consonants most frequently
+occurring. The Haussa has also the _g_ hard, as in _magaree_,
+"good;" and a great number of words with the sound _tsh_, as _doutshee_,
+a stone or mountain.
+
+The Fellatah language is said to resemble the Kailouee; in other words,
+to be a Berber dialect. If this be the case, the Fellatah people are
+probably of Berber extraction, and not Arab, as they are vulgarly
+supposed to be. This is a question requiring still further
+investigation. Others, again, say that the Fellatah language is quite
+different from the Tuarick. Overweg thinks Islamism was introduced into
+Bornou by the Shoua Arabs, who are found in Bornou in great numbers. The
+Fellatah, he thinks, received Islamism by way of Timbuctoo, from Moors
+and Arabs trading to that city from Morocco. There is considerable
+probability in both these opinions.
+
+_15th._--Four or five days after the approaching Eed, or festival, half
+the people of Tintalous will go for salt, and the other half prepare for
+their annual journey to Soudan with En-Noor.
+
+The inhabitants of Damerghou are reported to be half "_Kohlan_," blacks,
+and half Kailouees. It is the Kailouees in the neighbourhood of
+Damerghou who infest the borders and routes of Bornou. En-Noor is now
+very quiet, and there is a chance that he will not come down upon me for
+more money.
+
+According to the Fezzanees, Tuat is thirty days from Aisou and
+thirty-three from Taghajeet (short days). Ghat is forty short and thirty
+long days from Tintalous or Asoudee. Bilma is fourteen long and seven
+short days from Tintalous or Asoudee. There is no direct route from this
+(Tintalous) to Timbuctoo; from Sakkatou there is, however, a short route
+to Timbuctoo, and it is said to be a safe one. The number of days here
+mentioned are merely general numbers; they vary according to the good
+state of the camels, or the disposition of the people, or certain
+accidents on the road.
+
+The evening of the feast of the "Descent of the Koran from Heaven," all
+good Muslims ought to sit up all night to read the Koran, through and
+through again.
+
+There is a curious commerce of yamanee, or agate stones, in
+Soudan. These yamanee are originally brought from the eastern
+coast of Africa, from and near Mombas (Mozambique), where they pass as
+money, like the cowries. From Mombas they are carried, by the Muscat
+traders, to Yamen, and thence to Mekka; in which place they are blessed,
+and rendered doubly precious. From Mekka they are brought to Egypt, and
+from Egypt to Mourzuk; from which point they are distributed all over
+this part of Africa, and the souk of Kanou is stocked with them. They
+are much esteemed by all classes of the inhabitants of the interior of
+Africa, and are worn equally by the men and women.
+
+In this commerce we see the round-about-way in which some articles are
+conveyed for sale. If there were a road from Mombas direct to Bornou,
+this agate would be cheap enough. But then, perhaps, it would not be
+esteemed or valued at half its present cost. It would not be blessed at
+Mekka, and so lose all its talismanic and mysterious power. The name is
+derived from Yaman, evidently from the first country in Arabia, to which
+they were brought originally from Africa.
+
+According to Overweg, Madame En-Noor is still very unwell with her lip.
+It is cut right across under her nose, penetrating to the gums; she is,
+nevertheless, very lively, and is always pestering Overweg to read the
+fatah with, or marry a young girl, one of her relations. She endeavours
+to warm my worthy friend to comply with her match-making wishes by
+luxurious descriptions of the beauties of the proffered bride.
+
+As soon as the people hear I have a wife in Tripoli, they begin to ask
+how many children I have got. On receiving for answer, "None," they are
+greatly astonished, and ask me the reason of so strange a matrimonial
+phenomenon.
+
+This evening another fine meteor appeared in the south-east. Its head
+was like a blazing star, and it left behind it a train of sparkling
+light and flame. There were also numbers of smaller meteors.
+
+_16th._--The morning of the Eed. According to the Fezzanees, prayers are
+soon ended; because, they say, "these Kailouees know nothing of their
+religion."
+
+The Fezzanees asked me to hoist the British flag; to which I replied,
+"No; the flag belongs to the Queen, but I will give you a little powder
+for your matchlocks." All these Mahommedan feasts are celebrated on the
+northern coast of Africa by the discharge of gunpowder.
+
+No certain information can be obtained of the route from Zinder to
+Sakkatou, in this place. The people only say the present Sultan is not
+so strong as was his father; thereby intimating that the routes are not
+so secure as formerly.
+
+It is usual for the inhabitants of Tintalous to visit those of Asarara
+on the morning of the present feast. About sixty men, natives of this
+place, accompanied by a dozen Moors from Tripoli and Mourzuk, went,
+accordingly, to Asarara this morning. Then a number of the people of
+Asarara returned with them. Yusuf remarked, with some surprise, that
+even the women went out to pray, about forty in number. So that it would
+seem the Kailouees educate their women in religion more than the Muslims
+of the coast.
+
+The most interesting event to us, however, this morning, was the arrival
+of the boat from Seloufeeat. Our servants were very quick in their
+return. They came all night, to avoid any further attempts to carry off
+the camels. They were all alone. I welcomed the return of the boat as I
+would that of an old friend.
+
+There was no firing this evening, as was expected, En-Noor being very
+unwell-suffering rheumatism and fever.
+
+The most agreeable sight in all these Mahommedan feasts is to see all
+the people dressed out in their finery. The merchants have appeared in
+splendid burnouses, all more or less in good humour. The slaughtering of
+the sheep to-day was the dirtiest part of the business. All here on such
+occasions play the part of butchers-men, women, and children; and all
+attack, stab, skin, and maul the poor animals, in a way frightful to
+behold. The environs of the town were turned into dirty
+slaughter-houses.
+
+_17th._--I have determined to purchase no more things from the Sfaxee at
+present. He makes me pay double price. It will be better to wait and see
+what can be done at Zinder. An infidel traveller, who is known to be in
+possession of any property, is sure in these countries to be looked upon
+as a milch-cow. Does not "the book," according to the vulgar opinion,
+authorise the faithful to take our lives? "Our purses are more lawful."
+
+The festival being over, I went to pay my respects to Sultan En-Noor. He
+is much better in health than yesterday, but has still a bad cold, and
+continues to blow his nose and wipe it--pardon the _naive_
+statement--with the sole of one of his sandals! The action struck me as
+rather uncleanly and undignified in a prince; but Kailouees are not
+punctilious.
+
+Mr. Gagliuffi had mentioned to me that he had given assistance to some
+shepherds who were begging their way to Soudan. One of these poor
+fellows had come to see the Sultan. He seemed, indeed, miserably poor,
+but tried to hide the fact, saying to them and Yusuf: "I have news for
+you; now I am your friend, as I was a friend to the Consul in Mourzuk."
+He was quite a young man, and excited my compassion.
+
+In the afternoon I received a visit from En-Noor, with a whole train of
+his people. The Shereef was absent. The Sultan came especially to see
+the boat, the pieces of which were put together that he might know its
+shape and size. Yusuf then drew for him a ship with all sails set, on a
+piece of paper. It was very well done; and excited the applause of my
+visitors. I treated them, as usual, with pickles, marmalade, and tea.
+Among other things I showed En-Noor the broad arrow, or government mark,
+on many of our things; as the guns, and pistols, tent, bags, and
+biscuits, which greatly surprised him.
+
+The Sheikh was in good spirits, and was pleased with his visit. I sent
+him during the day a piece of dark blue cotton print for a pillowcase.
+This little present delighted him much. I am much hampered with the
+"princesses," who first sent to buy sugar, and then to beg, forgetting
+to buy.
+
+We have a Tuat Tuarick changing camels for slaves now in Tintalous. This
+man belongs to the tribe called Sgomara, if I have caught the name
+correctly.
+
+_18th._--I rose early, having had a bad headache during the night
+through eating meat in the middle of the day. Whatever is eaten in the
+middle of the day must be taken very sparingly. I believe the greater
+part of the diseases with which foreigners in these countries are
+afflicted arise from want of sufficient attention to diet. We must take
+great care of our health just as we are entering Soudan. The weather is
+still cool, especially in the morning. The prevailing wind during these
+last twenty days has been E.N.E., which is very refreshing. The Moorish
+merchants pretend that in Soudan it is now very cold.
+
+I received a visit from the young Shereef, whose conversation smacked a
+good deal of a disagreeable curiosity respecting my movements and
+intentions in Central Africa. I therefore gave him a very ordinary and
+cool welcome. This fellow has been here some time, and never offered to
+pay us a visit before. En-Noor has been feeding him during his stay. He
+displayed a good deal of shrewdness, and is well acquainted with the
+Christians of the Mediterranean. He is going to visit his brother in
+Zinder, and then returns to Tripoli by the way of Bornou and Mourzuk.
+Like all these shereefs, or marabouts, he pretended that had he been
+with us, or had we travelled with him from Mourzuk to Tintalous, no one
+would have dared to molest us; an assertion wholly false, for the
+Tuaricks care little for marabouts when they are bent on plunder.
+
+A young woman has just arrived from a distant village, with the express
+object of procuring from the Taleb (Overweg) a medicine to produce
+abortion: she says she has been gadding, "barra" (out of her mother's
+house), and is frightened lest she should get a good beating. On
+Overweg's refusing to give her any such medicine she burst out into a
+pathetic lamentation, and talked loudly of what her parent would do to
+her. Young ladies often think of their mothers a little too late under
+these circumstances.
+
+A slave of the Sultan of Aghadez arrived this morning, in six days from
+the capital, to inquire after the health of En-Noor. He brings no
+particular news, but says he saw Barth at Aghadez.
+
+"Man is to man the surest, deadliest foe," has been quoted from the poet
+as most applicable to the moral and social state of Africa. It may truly
+be said to be our case, for hitherto we have suffered little in this
+town except from men. Looking also around us, the people suffer less
+from the arid country which they inhabit than from the violence which
+they inflict one upon another.
+
+I learned from Yusuf yesterday evening, that for every dollar I take
+from the Sfaxee, if I pay in Mourzuk, I must give two. I was greatly
+afflicted at this positive declaration, but scarcely believe it; if it,
+however, prove to be the case, I must by all means find money in Soudan.
+It will be a hard fight, indeed, to keep down the expenses of this
+expedition; however, every effort must be employed to effect this
+desirable object.
+
+Maradee, I learn, is three days west from Tesaoua; and this latter
+place is two from Zinder. There is another village, called Gazawa, one
+day south of Tesaoua. The inhabitants of these places are half
+Mahommedans and half pagans; the latter do not offer human sacrifices;
+their religious rites consist principally in worshipping trees, to which
+they sacrifice at certain seasons. The Fellatahs are always at war with
+the people of Maradee, but Gouber is at peace with Sakkatou. In
+Maradee there is one large stone-and-mud house for the Sultan; all
+the rest of the houses are bell-shaped huts. The place has a numerous
+population. Tesaoua is also independent and self-governed, as are most
+of the places hereabouts.
+
+I had a visit from two itinerant schoolmasters, natives of Bornou. From
+these I learned that there does exist a little education amongst the
+Kailouees. There is a village near called Amurgeen, three hours from
+Tintalous, where children are sent from all the places around, so that
+it forms a species of college or university. It is to this college that
+En-Noor sends his sons and grandsons. These itinerant pedagogues are
+negroes; and it is certainly a curious circumstance that from Central
+Africa instruction should migrate northwards. But the Kailouees have
+little pride in this respect; although boasting of the name of Tuaricks,
+and accounting themselves _white_ people, or allied with the whites,
+they do not scruple to receive education from the negroes of Bornou,
+whilst certainly it would be very easy to have Kailouee schoolmasters.
+
+I heard from my friend Tibbaou that En-Noor's territory in Tesaoua is
+simply a village at some distance from the medeeneh, or city, where
+there is a native and independent sultan of some power. His territory in
+Damerghou is also a mere village. Nevertheless, the possession of these
+places extends the political influence of the Kailouees in Soudan. The
+neighbourhood of Damerghou, especially the western side, seems
+celebrated for a tribe, or factions of tribes, consisting of bad
+Tuaricks. This race is evidently spreading in Soudan; there are great
+numbers in Gouber and the countries near.
+
+I purchased from the itinerant pedagogues of Bornou two of their
+ink-bottles, which are made of small calabashes. They wrote for me some
+specimens of their penmanship, a charm, _fatah_, or first chapter of the
+Koran. They wrote and formed their letters sideways, as some lawyers'
+clerks do in England.
+
+Dambaba Makersee took the liberty of informing me to-day, as if I did
+not know it before, that all the things of us Christians were considered
+by the Kailouees generally as common property, and that whoever could
+lay hold of any ought to do so without qualm or scruple; but, he added,
+when you arrive in Zinder, all will be changed. Let us hope so,
+_Inshallah_!
+
+Strings of charms are worn by the men occasionally under the arm, or
+suspended over the shoulders, as well as round the neck. The charm or
+armlet of the Moors and Tuaricks corresponds with the _Fetish_ of the
+ancient Kohlan, people of Soudan, and of the present negro races on the
+western coast.
+
+I finished the statistics of the towns and villages of Asben--after all,
+a very imperfect affair. Nevertheless, it is the best which I could make
+from my materials.
+
+En-Noor paid me a visit in the morning, and stopped gossiping two hours.
+From him I learnt that the Fellatah language has no relation to the
+Arabic or Tuarick, but is quite a language peculiar in itself. He also
+informed us that the Gouberites were still at war with the Fellatahs of
+Sakkatou; that they were united with the people of Maradee, ancient
+Kohlans like themselves, and that this united force had been lately
+gaining their lost ground against the new Muslim powers in Soudan.
+En-Noor seems to favour the re-establishment of these people against the
+Fellatahs. The latter he naturally hates, on account of their attempts
+on the independence of the Kailouees, and their perpetual intrigues at
+Aghadez.
+
+With regard to Tesaoua, En-Noor pretends that he founded this city. His
+statement is singularly suggestive and picturesque in its simplicity. He
+says that he met, on the spot where Tesaoua now stands, a forlorn man,
+with only two slaves.
+
+"What are you doing?" he said to the man.
+
+"Nothing," the man replied. "What can I do, naked as I am, with myself
+and two slaves?"
+
+"Oh!" rejoined En-Noor; "stop a minute, and I will bring you a multitude
+of people, and we together will make a large city." En-Noor kept his
+word, and brought a multitude of Kailouees, Kohlans, and their slaves.
+Now Tesaoua is a mighty city, and En-Noor has got a small town of his
+own near it, mostly peopled by his dependants. Such is the foundation of
+many African cities; these places springing up as mushrooms, and
+disappearing as soon.
+
+En-Noor also pretends, that through his father he is heir to the thrones
+of the ancient Kohlans, about Kashna, Gouber, and Maradee, and that he
+ought to come into possession after the death of the present occupants.
+This, I should think, is incorrect; but his highness has undoubtedly
+great political influence in those countries. We learn that several of
+the men of Tintalous have wives and families in Damerghou and Tesaoua,
+but none of them have large families--only one or two children.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+News from Barth--Camels restored--Expensive Journey--Proposed Migration
+of Males--Supply of Slaves, whence--A new Well--Pagans and
+Christians--Tibboo Manners--The great Gong--When is a Tibboo
+hungry?--Hunger-belt--Queen of England in the Sahara--The Shanbah--A
+hasty Marriage--Said's new Wife--Wild Cauliflowers--Tolerance of the
+Kailouees--Men go to fetch Salt from Bilma--Approach of Dr.
+Barth--Lion's Mouth--Tibboos and Kailouees--Mysteries of
+Tintalous--Fewness of Men in Aheer--Trees preserved in the
+Valley--Bright Stars--Method of Salutation--Purposed Stars--Kailouee
+Character--Champagne at Tintalous--The Wells.
+
+
+_Oct. 22d._--A letter was received this morning from Dr. Barth. It
+appears that the treaty will not be signed, nor even presented to the
+Sultan. En-Noor paid me a visit, as usual, this morning. I presented to
+his highness some old boxes, with which he ordered a door to be made for
+his palace. His politeness does not cease, and the graciousness with
+which he receives my presents is really remarkable.
+
+The man sent after our camels brought back my poor white maharee, and
+demanded ten dollars (as good as twenty to me) for his trouble. I
+refused to give them, preferring to let him have the camel, which is
+hardly worth ten dollars. This manner of recovering our lost or stolen
+camels amounts to buying them over again. But it has been our misfortune
+all along, that our friends, and those who profess to be such, and all
+who attempt to aid us--every one of them, have profited by our losses,
+and the disasters which have befallen us. This dispute has been referred
+to En-Noor, and they have accepted five dollars, which I offered them.
+
+I this day made out the statement of the principal items of expenditure
+which the expedition has incurred from Mourzuk to Tintalous, including
+the escort to Zinder. It amounts to the enormous sum of three thousand
+mahboubs, or about six hundred pounds sterling!! If we do not proceed
+better than this on the future part of the journey, the expedition will
+at any rate be bankrupt and ruined for want of funds.
+
+_23d._--Yusuf and I brought before Overweg this morning the necessity of
+his assisting in relieving the Government from the double payment of the
+sums advanced by the Sfaxee. He agreed that it was highly important to
+save this money, and promised to place his goods at my disposal for sale
+in Soudan.
+
+On the departure of the caravan for Zinder and Kanou every male
+inhabitant will leave Tintalous, some starting with it and others going
+for salt, leaving only the women and children behind. This is considered
+by the Moors as preferable to leaving a few men behind, because these
+few would occasion quarrels amongst the women, and, besides, excite the
+jealousy of the absent husbands.
+
+Most of the men who go with us to Damerghou and forward to Tesaoua will
+find another wife and family in both these places. This is a regular
+emigration of males, not the accidental departure of fathers and
+husbands. These gentlemen pass half the year in Soudan and half in
+Aheer. The system does not appear to be advantageous to the increase of
+population: the wives of these birds of passage hardly bear two children
+a-piece. Indeed there are very few children in Tintalous. We have not
+yet sufficient data or experience for a conclusion on this part of
+statistics; but, up to the present, all that we have seen in Africa
+during this journey exhibits it as singularly miserable and destitute of
+population. We can hear of no man, not even a sultan with his fifty
+female slaves, having more than four or five children. As for the poor,
+one or two are all that they can bring up.
+
+Whence, then, comes the supply of slaves? So far as this part of Africa
+is concerned I may observe, in reply, that the annual number of slaves
+brought is exceedingly limited, amounting only to a few thousands. When
+we get nearer the western coast, we shall probably be able to account
+for the supplies of slaves which are transported across the Atlantic.
+
+This afternoon a well was commenced near our tents. The digging of a
+well is an important matter; his highness En-Noor, therefore, vouchsafed
+his presence. A number of the excavators came to me to beg for sugar. I
+brought out a piece of white loaf sugar, and broke it into thirty pieces
+or so; then ordered one of them to divide it fairly amongst themselves:
+but this was impossible. Anything like fairness amongst the Kailouees,
+all of whom are addicted to thieving (a habit acquired from Soudan), was
+out of the question. As soon as I rose from the ground, after breaking
+the sugar on a leathern apron, there was a general rush upon it, and
+some got a great deal and others none. Was not this a fine miniature
+picture of mankind?
+
+_24th._--En-Noor paid me a very early visit, and drank coffee. I heard
+that a courier to Mourzuk would cost forty dollars. I begin to learn a
+little Soudanese; there are some beautiful soft words in it. Yusuf says
+there is no name for God in this language; but his statement requires
+further examination.
+
+From what we learn respecting Barth's reception at Aghadez, it would
+appear that the people were disposed to look upon him with the same
+complacency as they are wont to regard the pagans, or En-sara as they
+call them, of Gouber and Maradee. Indeed, the Tanelkums and Kailouees
+consider that we shall be well received by our brethren, the pagans of
+Soudan.
+
+Here is a most extraordinary trait of the barbarity of the Tibboos. It
+often happens that they are out foraging for twenty days without finding
+anything to eat. If they light upon the bones of a dead camel, they take
+them and pound them to dust; this done, they bleed their own living
+camels (maharees) from the eye, and of the blood and powdered bones they
+make a paste, which they eat! This is somewhat analogous to what Bruce
+relates of the Abyssinians cutting out beefsteaks from the rump of a
+live bullock. The Tibboos possess the finest maharees; and the breed in
+the rest of the Sahara is always being improved or kept up by a constant
+supply from their country.
+
+I continue to supply his highness En-Noor with either tea or coffee
+every day. I sent him some early this morning. He is a greedy old dog,
+and will not buy a loaf of sugar because I will not give it him at the
+price of Mourzuk, and thus lose the freight. I hold out, and we have
+sold him none for the present.
+
+Overweg is making a small commercial lexicon of the things brought to
+the market of Kanou: a most excellent idea. I myself intend, if I go to
+Kanou, to make a list of all the things I find in the Souk, with some
+account of their produce and mode of importation into that mart.
+
+The great gong sounded throughout the village this afternoon, to give
+note of preparation to all the people, that every one of the males must
+be ready to leave this place in the course of three or four days. The
+Sheikh says he is determined to leave in three days, whether the people
+come from Aghadez or not. Yusuf laid before En-Noor this evening the
+necessity of our sending a courier to Mourzuk, stating that we had
+nothing left. His highness pitied our case, and said he would look about
+for a courier; observing, "The Consul has need of much money and many
+presents in Soudan." He said, also, that he would recommend us to go to
+Bornou.
+
+_25th._--The days are now pretty hot, and the nights correspondingly
+cool. We have a good deal of wind. I wrote a letter to Drs. Overweg and
+Barth jointly, calling upon them to assist me in case the Sfaxee would
+not wait for his money until the return of the courier. Dr. Overweg
+consents. I wrote out the Tuarick alphabet.
+
+The account of the Tibboos pounding the camels' bones and bleeding their
+animals to make paste, is confirmed by the Gatronee of the Germans.[4]
+He says, moreover, that this is the way in which they proceed. Every
+Tibboo must fast three days before he thinks about eating. If on the
+fourth day he do not arrive at the _belad_, or country, he then takes
+his left sandal from his foot, and stews or soddens it, making something
+of a soup. These sandals being leather, or untanned hide, it is,
+perhaps, not impossible to make of them a palatable soup! If on the
+fifth day he find no village, he then devours the sandal of his right
+foot. After this, still not finding a village, he collects bleached
+camels' bones and bleeds his camel as before mentioned.
+
+  [4] People are called here by the nation, and even town, to
+      which they belong, or in which they were born, as sometimes
+      in Europe.
+
+A Tibboo always has a girdle with seven knots, and when travelling hard
+takes in, as the sailors would say, a reef every day; if after seven
+days he find nothing to eat, he is considered hungry and unfortunate.
+The three Tuaricks who followed us from the well of Aisou declared that
+they had had nothing to eat for fifteen days; and there cannot be a
+doubt of the fact, that both the Tibboos and the Tuaricks can, on a
+pinch, remain without food for a considerable time--say ten or twelve
+days.
+
+A Tuatee, who knows Algiers well, arrived here this afternoon, and is
+going with us to Zinder. He brings an extraordinary report about the
+copy of the treaty which I left with Haj Ahmed at Ghat. He says he heard
+it read, and from it learned that "the Queen of England is now in
+Tripoli, and wishes to come and live in Ghat, and has offered to buy
+half Ghat." Such is the nature of Saharan reports.
+
+More authentic intelligence arrived to-day by a courier, who made the
+journey from Ghat to Seloufeeat in fourteen days--sufficiently quick.
+This courier brings a warning from Khanouhen to the caravans now
+proceeding to Ghat, not to come in twos or threes, as they were wont,
+but to come altogether, as he fears reprisals from the Shanbah and the
+Haghar.
+
+The history of the thing is this:--A tribe of Tuaricks has always acted
+as the guides of the Shanbah in their foraging parties--on the Tuarick
+territory, for example--always pointing out to them the camels of the
+people of Ghat. Khanouhen has chastised this treacherous tribe,
+destroying a great many of them; but the Shanbah and Haghar not choosing
+to desert their old friends, have determined to take vengeance upon the
+Ghat Tuaricks. It is this revenge which Khanouhen fears. He anticipates
+a combined attack on the caravans. The wonder is how these routes are
+kept open at all, when these distant tribes, who have no interest in the
+commerce that moves along them, are notorious for their predatory
+feelings and education. It is now said that the Fadeea, our friends on
+the frontier, are in league with the Shanbah against the Ghat Tuaricks.
+
+En-Noor, it appears, had sent his son to salute the new Sultan of
+Aghadez, and to assist in establishing or placing him on his throne. He
+got as far as Asoudee, when he fell in love with a pretty woman of the
+town, and at once married her, proceeding no farther on his mission.
+Yesterday evening a man arrived mounted on a maharee, bringing with him
+all the finery of the bride, which he exhibited to the people, riding
+about the town! All were greatly astonished at the splendour of the
+bride's dowry. Are not these fit materials for an Arabian Night's
+entertainment? My servant, Said, also married the other evening, but not
+so romantically; taking up with the divorced wife of another freed
+black. I heard nothing of it until all was over. The parties guessed
+rightly that I should take no interest in the matter, or rather
+disapprove of it, as the fellow has abandoned his own and natural wife.
+This divorced negress, who has at last found a master, has gone the
+round of all the tents since she has parted from her former husband, and
+is a little intriguing wretch. The Sfaxee and Yusuf countenanced the
+affair, but kept it quite unknown to me. They, however, fetched Overweg,
+and presented him with a portion of the marriage-supper--bazeen. I felt
+much disgusted on hearing of the affair. The old wife is a native of
+Kanemboo, and is going thither. She will, of course, gladly take leave
+of her husband and this young wife and rival. Marriage is an excessively
+loose tie here, at any rate amongst the poor. The rich pretend to
+respect marriage.
+
+We have all done little in clearing up difficulties, or obtaining
+correct information of the Tuaricks of the Sahara. No good informants
+are to be found. From the Sheikhs of Ghat it is quite impossible to
+learn anything. We hope to get some information from a Tanelkum now
+going with us. Many tribes have been mentioned, casually; but the
+principal are--the three great tribes of Ghat, those to which Khanouhen,
+Shafou, Jabour, and Hateetah belong--a tribe in Janet--the Haghar of
+Ghamama--the Isokamara, located on the Tuat route from Aisou--the
+Tanelkums of Fezaan--the Maraga, a breed produced from the slaves of the
+Haghar and the Sorgou of Timbuctoo.
+
+_26th._--The sky is now frequently cloudy, but no rain falls. The valley
+of Tintalous is looking fresh, on account of the great quantity of wild
+cauliflower overspreading its surface, called by the Arabs _liftee_.
+This word _liftee_, is evidently derived from _lift_, "turnip." The
+vegetable grows in lines and circles, determined apparently by the
+action of the water, which deposits the seeds. No use is made of this
+wild cabbage; it is very bitter, and no animals even eat it.
+
+En-Noor paid me a visit this morning before I was up; he drank some
+coffee, and went off to see his camels. The Tanelkums were quite wrong
+in their surmisings about En-Noor and his religious fanaticism. He has
+shown less fanaticism than any prince with whom we have had yet anything
+to do during the present journey. All the Kailouees of Tintalous are
+equally tolerant. We have now three quasi-princes, or sons of sultans,
+in Tintalous, besides the son of En-Noor. We have Mousa Waled Haj-Ali,
+who takes our despatches to Mourzuk, with Yusuf my interpreter, and a
+Tibboo, the son of the Sultan of Kouivar. As we proceed onwards, princes
+and sons of princes will thicken upon us.
+
+_27th._--I packed up and sent off all my despatches to Mourzuk, together
+with a few trifling things for my poor wife, by the hand of Mousa Waled
+Haj-Ali, the virtual Sheikh of the Tanelkums.
+
+_28th._--All the male inhabitants, with the exception of five or six,
+have gone off this morning to fetch salt from Bilma. They return here in
+the course of a month, and the greater part of the salt is transported
+from hence to Soudan by the next caravan. We have heard of our friends
+at Aghadez. They are expected here in a few days. The new Sultan of
+Aghadez is said--but there is little accuracy in these desert
+reports--to have gone on an expedition west, to settle some differences
+between some tribes in arms against one another. The people also say
+that the new Sultan is "hungry," and is glad of such an opportunity to
+get "something to eat." This is the way in which they would describe a
+Chancellor of the Exchequer planning a new tax.
+
+Some say the object of the razzia is to chastise the Fadeea for
+attacking us; but still the main object is to fill the Sultan's "own
+hungry belly." Such are Asbenouee politics.
+
+_Bakin-Zakee_, the Soudanese name of the Kailouee green cap, I know here
+means the "_lion's mouth_." This is the phrase with which I always
+salute Zangheema, En-Noor's chief slave; but the terms are much more
+appropriate for his master, as intimating his avaricious, nay voracious,
+disposition. Zangheema, however, might be called "Karen Zakee,"
+the jackal of the lion, or "the lion's provider," so anxious is he to
+minister to the voracious appetite of his lord.
+
+We have received the news that Dr. Barth is near. He is expected
+to-morrow evening, or early next day.
+
+_29th._--En-Noor paid me a visit at sunset to-day, and talked of how
+many children people had in this country. His highness said he knew a
+sultan in Soudan who had seven hundred children.
+
+_30th._--The Gatronee of the Germans confirms the report of the
+circumstance, that, when the Kailouees go to the Tibboos to trade for
+salt, all the male Tibboos run away, leaving all the business in the
+hands of the females; which latter, besides trading in salt with the
+Kailouees, make a good mercantile speculation with their charms. Each
+woman, in fact, has her Kailouee husband or lover, during the carrying
+on of this singular commerce. If the traders catch a single Tibboo man
+staying behind, they at once murder him, with the most marked
+approbation of the Tibboo women. Such is the state of connubial fidelity
+in this part of the Sahara.
+
+The Tibboos have been very greatly neglected by persons writing on
+Africa, chiefly on account of the slighting, summary way in which they
+are spoken of by the members of the former English expedition to Bornou.
+They are, however, divided into a great number of tribes, are spread
+over a considerable extent of country, and are partly the guardians of
+the Bornou route. We must pay them some attention when they come under
+our observation.
+
+There is a man come from Dr. Barth and his party. They are expected in
+the course of forty-eight hours. En-Noor is very angry that they do not
+mend their pace. We are all ready to start. An immense caravan is
+waiting for their arrival.
+
+_31st._--The people begin to pester me to marry another wife in
+Soudan,--one very young and with large breasts is the kind of article
+they recommend.
+
+The mysteries of Tintalous are celebrated at the well in the evening,
+under the bright, glowing light of Venus, which star is now seen a
+couple of hours above the horizon after sunset. On the margin of the
+well, which is on the other side of the wady, at the distance of a
+quarter of a mile, the damsels of Tintalous regularly meet their lovers,
+and spend with them half an hour of sweet communion. Some even retire to
+the shade of a large-spreading tholukh near, or behind blocks of rock
+rising on the edge of the valley, and indulge in lawful or unlawful
+embraces. The strangers who come here, the Moors of Tripoli and Fezzan,
+are freely initiated into these mysteries.
+
+I am told by our servants, who have been round to all the villages or
+towns in the neighbourhood of Tintalous for the purchase of ghaseb, that
+these places, small or large, are none of them equal to Tintalous,
+although the houses are much the same--bell-shaped huts, and the people
+are of the same character. What has greatly astonished our servants is
+the fewness of the men; indeed, in some villages they saw no other
+persons but women and children, and scarcely any children. What is the
+cause of this? It would seem that the men are consumed by the women.
+These women bear few children, and perhaps this may in part account for,
+if it be not produced by, their excessive licentiousness. Yet the men
+are on the wing a great part of the year. The Kailouees, however,
+wherever they go, have their women at hand, and during a journey many of
+them take two or three female slaves. How is this superabundant supply
+of the softer sex kept up? If I am noticing a mere temporary phenomenon,
+the destruction of men in the razzias may account for the disproportion.
+Besides, the Kailouees are always imparting fresh slaves into their
+country.
+
+The poor people of Tintalous are fed chiefly on the pounded grains of
+the herb _bou rekaba_. It is a real Asbenouee dish. Overweg made a
+supper of it one evening. I tasted it, and find it has a very strong
+flavour of herbs; that is to say, what is commonly imagined to be the
+flavour of herbs in general. The people now go a long way for wood. The
+tholukh-trees of the valley are not allowed to be cut down; they are
+always preserved as a resource for the time of drought and dearth, when
+the flocks can find no herbage in the valley. The boughs are at such
+junctures lopped off, and the flocks are fed on the leaves. Thus I have
+seen the goats and sheep fed on the tholukh-leaves on the plains of
+Mourzuk, as well as near this place. Another reason may induce En-Noor
+to save the tholukh-trees,--that there may be a perpetual shade and
+verdure in the valley of Tintalous. There are many finer valleys than
+this in Asben, and were the trees not preserved, it would be a very
+barren, unlively spot.
+
+This evening, two hours after sunset, Venus exhibited her most splendid
+phasis: the west, where she was setting, about half-an-hour before she
+disappeared, was lit up as if it was moonlight. On concealing the
+planet, the effect produced was that of the setting of the moon. Every
+star was eclipsed in the western circle of the heavens, I never saw
+anything before equal to this. I could here fully realise the words of
+Scripture, that the stars were made also "to give light upon the earth."
+
+The manner of saluting and shaking hands amongst the Kailouees deserves
+notice: they first hold up the right hand with the palm outspread, like
+the Tuaricks of Ghat. Afterwards, when more companionable and familiar,
+they take hold of hands, and press them lightly some five or six times
+or more, if great friends, and conclude this pressing of the hand with a
+sort of jerk, drawing quickly off each other's hand. In taking hold of
+the hand of your friend, you fit your thumb in the circle formed by his
+thumb and fingers, and every time you press his hand, and he presses
+yours, you separate the hands from each other.[5]
+
+  [5] This mode of shaking hands is common among the Fellahs of
+      Egypt.--ED.
+
+_Nov. 1st._--The month has set in with wind,--not gusts, but steady
+wind, continually blowing from E.N.E. It is stated positively that we
+leave here to-morrow morning, whether the people return or not from
+Aghadez. I register all reports as I hear them, though perfectly aware
+that we have not been yet quite let into the secret of the singular
+migration in which we are about to bear a part. The greater number of
+the men of Tintalous have gone to Bilma in search of salt; and I
+originally understood that the great annual caravan was for the
+transport of this necessary article. Perhaps En-Noor means to go slowly
+on, just to keep us in good humour. Our intercourse with the Kailouees
+has taught us to consider them a very mild, companionable race. Often
+indeed, like children, I wonder what the Tibboos can see in them to make
+them so desperately afraid, for I am told ten Kailouees will frighten
+away fifty Tibboos of Bilma. But the Tibboos of Tibesty are considered a
+braver race. It is worthy of remark, that these cowardly Tibboos have a
+bad character, and, like most cowards, are very treacherous.
+
+I determined not to carry the little box in which the two bottles of
+champagne were packed any further; so I, Overweg, Yusuf, and the
+servants, set to work and drank a bottle of it, to the toast, "that we
+might have better luck higher up than all have hitherto experienced."
+The other bottle I have stowed away in reserve for the Lake Tchad, to
+drink the health of Her Majesty when we launch the boat, if we are
+fortunate enough to arrive there.
+
+I went to the wells to see the people get water this morning. A number
+of little children came,--some naked, and others with small pieces of
+leather round their loins: they all wore very large necklaces of charms
+sown up in leather bags.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+Dr. Barth's Journey to Aghadez--Description of the
+Route--Tiggedah--Luxuriant Scenery of Asadah--Plain of Tarist--Beautiful
+Valley--Buddeh--Small Caravan--Aghadez--its Inhabitants--their
+Occupation--The great Koku, or Sultan--Asbenouee Revolutions--Election
+of a Prince--Interview--Ceremony of Investiture--Razzia--Intricate
+Political System--Account of Aghadez--Mosque--Environs--Women--Tribes
+of Asben--The Targhee Family--Population of the Ghat Districts--of
+Aheer--The Oulimad and Tanelkums--Tribe of
+Janet--Haghar--Sagamaram--Maghatah--Extent of Aheer--Connexion
+with the Black Countries--Mechanism of Society in
+Aheer--Chieftains--Tax-gathering--Food of the
+Kailouees--Maharees--Amusements--Natural Features of
+Asben--Vegetation--Cultivation--Manufactures--Bags for Charms.
+
+
+Dr. Barth[6] has made a very interesting journey to Aghadez. He says the
+track lies either through fine valleys or over mountain-chains cut up by
+defiles. Here and there were charming spots, green with herbage and
+trees. In going, the shallow wells at Eghelloua were found to be full of
+water; but a month later they were all dry. Beyond is the Wady Chizolen,
+overlooked by a mountain that rises abruptly to the height of two
+thousand feet. Then comes the valley of Eghellal, with its rivulet, and
+beyond swell the famous mountains of the Baghzem. The worthy Doctor
+seems to have been too much occupied in collecting geographical data to
+preserve many picturesque facts by the way. On the third day he encamped
+at Tiggedah, where numerous species of trees and bushes tufted the
+valley, which was clothed also, near the margin of its streams, with
+grass as fresh and green as any in Europe. At that time, however, the
+place, with the exception of the cooing of wild doves and the cry of a
+solitary antelope, seemed perfectly unvisited by man. Afterwards, it was
+found full of flocks and herds, and enlivened by the encampment of a
+salt-caravan, with a string of young camels bound for Aghadez. The tribe
+to whom the valley belongs are nomadic, and shift from one place to
+another, as their fancies and necessities suggest. Amidst the trees,
+however, may be seen a small mosque, built of stone and roofed with
+palm-trees.
+
+  [6] See the papers read before the Geographical Society, in
+      January and March 1851. It appears to me that Mr. A.
+      Petermann slightly depresses the importance of the part
+      played by Mr. Richardson in this mission. However, this may
+      arise from the fact that the communications on which his
+      paper was founded were all from his German friends. It is
+      not necessary to be grudging of notice to any of the three
+      enterprising gentlemen who undertook this arduous journey;
+      but we must always remember who planned the Mission, and
+      who directed it with consummate prudence as long as life
+      and strength lasted. In Mr. Richardson's MS. an outline is
+      given of Dr. Barth's journey, and I therefore insert it,
+      with corrections and additions, from the papers just
+      alluded to.--ED.
+
+This agreeable place prefaces the still more luxuriant scenery of
+Asadah, where the vegetation is so rich, and the path so shut up by
+branches, that it is difficult to keep on the camel's back. What a
+contrast to the naked deserts of Ghat! It was from between the rich
+foliage of this valley that Dr. Barth obtained his first glimpses of the
+majestic mountain-chain of Dogem, estimated to attain the height of
+between four and five thousand feet. It is the loftiest range in Aheer.
+
+The plain of Erarer-en-Dendemu, which next succeeds, is covered with
+brushwood and low trees, and inhabited by lions--here called the Father
+of the Wilderness. Dr. Barth saw several, as well as a kind of ape about
+the size of a small boy, squatting in crowds on the lower hills. Beyond,
+overhung by the mountains of Anderas, is the rocky plain of Tarist,
+famous among the Arabs, as well as the Kailouees, on account of the
+remains of a mosque, indicated only by lines of stones on the ground. It
+was founded by a great saint called Sidi Baghdadi, and is a general
+resting-place for caravans. The basaltic formation here succeeds the
+granitic; and the plain is covered with loose black stones, about the
+size of a child's head.
+
+Escaping from this rough ground, the travellers entered a narrow valley,
+trenched by a broad watercourse, along the sides of which was a thick
+growth of palm-trees. There are two villages in this wady. Near one of
+them slaves were seen yoked to a plough, and driven like oxen, by their
+master. Further south the hoe replaces the plough in preparing the
+ground. This valley, inhabited by the Imrad (a Targhee tribe), is
+capable of producing not only ghaseb, but corn, wine, dates, and all
+kinds of vegetables. Fifty gardens adorn, it is said, the neighbourhood
+of Ifargen. But, in general, the rich soil is left uncultivated, and is
+covered by wild and sickly vegetation, which checks the progress of the
+traveller.
+
+In Wadi Buddeh grows a prickly plant called karengia; and a parasite
+(_griffenee_), producing a sweet but insipid berry of a red colour. A
+party of five lions were pursued like so many jackals. A small caravan
+of four persons, in Wadi Teffarrakad, were making use of four different
+modes of progression: one was on a camel, another on a buffalo, the
+third on a donkey, and the fourth used his own legs. In Wady Boghel were
+the signs of a field of ghaseb having existed last year. The ground was
+covered by a sickly wild melon; and in the thick foliage of the trees
+the guinea-hens were cackling. Here Dr. Barth saw the first specimen of
+the baure tree, the trunk measuring twenty-six feet in circumference,
+and the thick crown rising to the height of eighty feet. Here and
+elsewhere wild beasts were observed. The whole country, indeed, abounds
+in lions, wild boars, gazelles, ostriches, and monkeys.
+
+On the seventh day the party reached Aghadez, which they entered about
+an hour after sunset, it being the custom in this country never to enter
+a town by day. Aghadez is situated on a hamadah, or lofty plateau of
+sandstone and granite formation. Around, although there is no arable
+soil, a good deal of herbage and wood is found in the depressions of the
+plain. It is not surprising, therefore, that this much-talked-of capital
+is nothing but a large village, as indeed are all the other places of
+Aheer, with the exception of Asoudee. Aghadez, which is mentioned by Leo
+Africanus, is said by tradition to have been founded or enlarged by
+settlements from the north, consisting of a people called Arabs, but
+probably Berbers, since expelled by the Tuaricks. It serves as a sort of
+rendezvous between the Kailouees and the tribes to the south and west. A
+peculiar language (Emghedesie) is spoken by the inhabitants in their
+private intercourse; but Haussa is the idiom of trade. There are about
+seven hundred inhabited houses scattered among the ruins; and of fifty
+thousand people who must previously have lived within the walls, scarce
+eight thousand remain.[7] The inhabitants are partly artizans, partly
+merchants; but few caravans now pass on this route, and commerce with
+Timbuctoo seems altogether to have ceased. The trade that exists is
+entirely in provisions, principally in ghaseb, or millet, which is
+imported from Damerghou. The system adopted is entirely one of
+barter--the Aghadez money consisting of turkedi,[8] or dark-coloured
+cotton for female clothing made in Soudan, Egyptian leather for sandals,
+English calico, white shawls, cloves, pepper, pearls, &c. All these
+objects are imported, the only manufactures of Aghadez being
+leather-work (sandals and saddles) and coloured mats. I do not know what
+materials are used in tanning. The Fezzanee gets assistance, according
+to my fighi, from four trees--the graut, the ethel, the pomegranate, and
+the essalan. The first and last are a species of acacia. Women and men
+work in their houses at the production of these articles, and merchants
+go and purchase _a domicile_, there being now no shops. There are three
+market-places or bazaars, where prices are very low.
+
+  [7] This is Dr. Barth's statement, which I have introduced from
+      his own account. It will have been seen that Mr. Richardson
+      (see vol. i. "Note on the Territorial Division of Aheer,")
+      makes a much lower estimate. I may here remind the reader,
+      that even when in his diary Mr. Richardson inserts two
+      different and contradictory statements, I do not undertake
+      to select one and suppress the other, except in the case of
+      an obvious slip of the pen. Nor have I thought it necessary
+      to burden the page by indications of slightly different
+      assertions. A diary must necessarily abound with imperfect
+      observations, which correct or complete one another; and
+      perhaps the general impression left on the mind of the
+      reader--who accompanies, as it were, the writer in
+      receiving its various elements--is more like truth than it
+      would be after the perusal of one absolute dogmatic
+      statement.--ED.
+
+  [8] As an illustration of the previous note, I will observe
+      that this word is spelt in several different ways in the
+      MS., and I do not know which is the correct one.--ED.
+
+The Sultan of Aghadez, the great Koku Abd-el-Kader, does not receive any
+direct contribution towards his revenues, from the people of Aghadez,
+but levies a kind of _octroi_ of ten mithkals on every camel-load of
+goods that enters the town, provisions being exempt. He has property of
+his own, however; receives presents at his installation; and can always
+raise a sum by making a razzia on any neighbouring freebooters.
+
+It is a fundamental law in Aheer, that the Sultan of Aghadez shall
+belong to a particular family, which is said to derive its origin from
+Constantinople. Therefore when, in consequence of some discontent,
+Abd-el-Kader was deposed last year, the malcontents chose a relative,
+Hamed-el-Argau; but he also displeasing, a rival was set up in Makita,
+also of the same family. This caused great confusion, and the Walad
+Suleiman took the opportunity to make forays against Aheer. The prudent
+then resolved to restore the old Sultan, and succeeded, as I have
+already said, in their endeavours. When Dr. Barth arrived in Aghadez,
+the investiture was about to take place. The Sultan is chosen by the
+Kilgris and Iteesan tribes, who nourish a deadly hatred against their
+kindred, the Kailouees. On the present occasion, however, a marabout
+proclaimed peace and good-will between these ancient enemies. It was
+necessary, indeed, that some understanding should be come to, as after
+the election the ratification of En-Noor and Lousou is required.
+En-Noor, especially, is greatly respected by the people of Aghadez, as
+the grand supporter of authority in Asben. The new Sultan is usually
+brought from Sakkatou in state by the tribes Iteesan and Kilgris. A vast
+crowd of them, with their families and flocks, had marched up and
+occupied a camp near the town; but they departed on the same day that
+Dr. Barth arrived--even before he entered.
+
+Early in the morning, Dr. Barth paid his respects to the Sultan. He was
+a stout man, about fifty-five years of age--benevolent-looking, as far
+as could be judged in spite of his face-wrappers. He sat in a large
+room, supported by two massive columns, and received his visitors
+kindly. The presents pleased him, and were acknowledged by the
+counter-present of a fat ram, and by meals sent every day.
+
+The ceremony of investiture took place on the 16th of October, and seems
+to have been an imposing spectacle. Certain intricate forms are used to
+express the combination of various Tuarick tribes in choosing this
+foreign sultan. Succeeding it was the great festival, on which a
+procession took place, in which the new chief, wearing the burnouse
+which I had sent him, took part, with a great number of Tuaricks in
+their best array. Immediately afterwards a razzia (of which both we and
+Dr. Barth heard various conflicting reports) was agreed upon against the
+tribes of the north, especially those who had molested our
+expedition--the Fadeea. It was highly successful, and may perhaps be
+useful in procuring respect for future travellers. Two thousand men went
+out upon this foray, in which Abd-el-Kader was accompanied by
+Astakeelee, the Sultan of the Kailouees. Some, indeed, say that the
+latter only acted. Very little resistance was made, and I hear of only
+one man being killed. The fellow who stole Barth's maharee was compelled
+to restore him. Dr. Barth, however, though well-pleased on the whole
+with his reception, did not venture to present the treaty. He obtained
+some letters of recommendation to Soudan. Many of the distinguished
+persons of Aghadez visited Dr. Barth during his stay, and altogether his
+reception was satisfactory.
+
+I have already mentioned that the Sultan of Aghadez, though elected and
+controlled by a kind of aristocracy of sheikhs of various tribes, is
+invested with the power of life and death. He is said to have a
+frightful dungeon, into which guilty persons are thrown upon swords
+sticking upright in the ground. In his warlike expeditions he is
+regarded, however, as chief of some tribes only. The Kailouees have a
+sultan of their own, and encamp apart. The Sakonteroua, or Sheikh of
+Aghadez, exercises considerable influence. He is obliged annually to
+accompany the great salt-caravan, which sometimes numbers ten thousand
+camels--Saharan statistics--to Sakkatou.
+
+The town of Aghadez was formerly divided into a variety of quarters, the
+names of which still remain, although the space they occupied--three
+miles in circuit--is now principally filled with ruins. With the
+exception of five or six rubbish-hills, the whole space is level. The
+houses are spacious, with large rooms and court-yards. They are of mud,
+whitewashed, and furnished with flat terraces. Doves, children, and
+young ostriches, enliven the streets. There are some mosques, but none
+of imposing architecture. One, however, has a lofty tower, almost
+pyramidal in shape, supported on a basement of pillars, and rising to
+the height of about ninety feet. There is a kind of ladder inside; but
+Dr. Barth was not allowed to ascend, being told that the entrance was
+walled up.
+
+The land around the town is slightly undulating, and covered in the
+depressions with the _Acacia Arabica_. Herbage and good water abound.
+There are no orchards near, except in Wady Ameluli; but El-Hakhsas,
+three hours distant, produces melons, cucumbers, and melochiyeh, and
+supplies the whole town.
+
+The women of Aghadez are reported to be free and easy in character, and
+let loose tremendously as soon as the Sultan had departed on his razzia.
+Dr. Barth had some difficulty in keeping them at a distance. There are
+more children, however, to be observed in Aghadez than in most Aheer
+towns.
+
+This journey of Dr. Barth's has considerably extended our acquaintance,
+both with the geography and the political state of Asben or Aheer. We
+see now that it is strictly a portion of the Sahara, intersected with
+fertile valleys, that towards the south begin to assume quite a tropical
+character. The inhabitants are various in origin and in name; but it is
+difficult to describe their subdivisions with any accuracy. According to
+the natives, there are only two great tribes--the Kailouees, which
+division includes the Kailouees proper, the Kaltadak, and the Kalfadai;
+and, secondly, the Kilgris, including the Kilgris proper, the Iteesan,
+and the Ashraf. But, in questions of detail, numerous other names appear
+which it is difficult to arrange under any proper head. The Kailouees
+are, I think, of genuine Targhee origin, although, as I have already
+mentioned, with a mixture of the Soudan races. The Kaltadak and the
+Kalfadai seem to be identical with the borderers who attacked us on our
+first entrance into this country. The Kilgris are located southward,
+beyond Aghadez, along the Sakkatou route, and even far into Soudan,
+where the influence of the Targhee races seems to be rapidly on the
+increase.
+
+According to some of the Tanelkum Sheikhs, the following are the names
+of the principal Targhee tribes scattered over the desert of Sahara,
+excluding the inhabitants of Aheer:--
+
+1. Ouraghen     family of Shafou.
+
+2. Emanghasatan   "    of Hateetah.
+
+3. Amana          "    of Jabour.
+
+These are Ghat Tuaricks--Azghers.[9]
+
+4. Aheethanaran, the tribe of Janet.
+
+5. Hagar (Ahagar), pure Hagars and Maghatah, who stand to them somewhat
+in the relation of the Kourglouss of Algiers to the Turks. They occupy
+the tract between Ghat, Tuat, and Timbuctoo.
+
+6. Sagamaram; located on the route from Aisou to Tuat.
+
+7. Oulimad; tribes surrounding Timbuctoo in great numbers. In
+conjunction with the Berebisheers, a tribe of Arabs, they shut up the
+road between Aghadez and Timbuctoo by their predatory character.
+
+8. Tanelkum, located in Fezzan.
+
+  [9] The three tribes of Ghat are called Azgher, in
+      contradiction to the Hagar. A Tanelkum explained the
+      meaning of this last word (which I have usually written
+      Haghar) to mean "wandering" or "wanderers." The word is
+      sometimes written Hogar.
+
+We have been making inquiries of the Tanelkums about the population of
+Ghat and its deserts. The Tanelkums say, that ten or twelve years ago
+Khanouhen brought up about ten thousand maharees against the then
+masters of Mourzuk, the Walad Suleiman, headed by Abd-el-Galeel. The ten
+thousand maharees were the whole force and strength of the Azgher,
+Khanouhen having called out every male; for every man of the Azgher is a
+warrior. The Arabs, seeing the number of the Tuaricks, deemed it
+expedient to make peace. From this circumstance, it would be supposed
+that the Azgher may number from five to ten thousand families, nearly
+all located west of the Soudan route, along the lines of the Ghadamez
+and Tuat routes; where, it is said, there are fertile valleys, in which
+dates and corn are cultivated. But at Ghat I could never learn anything
+of these wadys. During my last visit I had no time, and the people there
+had no inclination to give me information about this fertile portion of
+the Azgher desert. On the former occasion, I learned from Haj Ahmed that
+there was a running stream, on the banks of which corn was cultivated,
+at about four days west of Ghat. This is probably the locality of Janet.
+For myself, I do not believe the Azgher Tuaricks number more than two
+thousand families.
+
+Of the population of Aheer I have been able to learn nothing definite;
+that is to say, nothing which I can absolutely depend upon. Some make it
+reach above fifty thousand souls. There are, however, only forty towns,
+exclusive of Aghadez; and about twenty places where people live in
+tents. I wrote down a second list of them, with their directions, and
+some guess at the number of male inhabitants. The son of the Tanelkum
+Sheikh considers the Kailouee warriors to amount to about fourteen
+thousand; which, indeed, will make the whole population above sixty
+thousand. The accounts I have received, therefore, seem to be
+sufficiently exact for general purposes.
+
+The Tanelkum Sheikh says there are no other tribes of Tuaricks but those
+enumerated above. The largest and most powerful tribe is that in the
+neighbourhood of Timbuctoo, the Oulimad, answering, perhaps, to the
+Sorghou of Caillie; and the smallest and weakest, the Tanelkum. But the
+Tanelkums, if small in number, are great in pride, and consider
+themselves a race of marabouts. They certainly make long prayers, and
+several of them can write a little. The Turks treat the Tanelkums with
+great consideration, and every year the Pasha of Mourzuk gives their
+Sheikh a fine burnouse and other presents. They pay no impost, though
+living in the Fezzan valleys. They are devoted to peaceful pursuits, and
+are camel-drivers and small merchants. Formerly they were powerful; and
+gave a sultan to the town of Ghat. About a century ago, their Sheikhs
+and the greater part of the Tanelkums were destroyed by a razzia of the
+Tibboos. They had then a town, which was situate in the Wady Esaiyen,
+where there are still ruins to be seen, and which we passed near Berkat.
+
+Of the Oulimad I know but little, except that they are exceedingly
+turbulent, even ferocious, in the neighbourhood of Timbuctoo. They also
+extend their razzias from Timbuctoo to the south-western frontiers of
+the Asbenouee territories. A very short time ago they made a foray on
+the Soudan route, between this and Damerghou. The Ghat Tuaricks I have
+pretty well described.
+
+The tribe of Janet has been mentioned frequently in this journal, from
+the circumstance of their attempting to get up a razzia against the
+expedition.
+
+The Haghar are well known, even in Europe, for their freebooting
+propensities. They lie between the Oulimad and the Azgher tribes
+surrounding Tuat, and are some of them engaged in commerce.
+
+The Sagamaram (or Sgamara) are an interesting small tribe, located in
+the rocky valleys, along the line of the route from Aisou to Tuat. They
+are mostly dressed in leathern clothes, and trade with Tuat, taking
+their cloths and a fragrant herb called _debau_, which they exchange
+against dates, &c. They likewise come to Aheer and Soudan, and fetch
+slaves and goods for the souks of Tuat. They are a very pacific tribe,
+not unlike the Tanelkums, but carrying on more commerce.
+
+The Maghatah (or Maratah) are a thievish race, and have the vices of
+their mothers, those peculiar to Soudan, as well as the more ferocious
+traits of Berber bandits. Several of these people are in Janet.
+
+In concluding these imperfect general observations on the state of Aheer
+or Asben, I will only add that the country extends from north to south
+eleven days' journey, or about two hundred and twenty miles (twenty
+miles to the day); and east and west, eight days, or one hundred and
+sixty miles. Aghadez, the largest town or city, stands, as has been
+seen, alone; and may be considered as a kind of connecting link,
+politically and otherwise, with the black countries to the south. I have
+already endeavoured to explain the singular constitution of society in
+this large but thinly-peopled tract. We observe there a curious
+combination of the monarchical and patriarchal states, with a dash of
+democracy into the bargain. Several times I have been reminded of
+Homer's heroic age. The princes and the people seem alternately to
+appear on the scene, exercising sovereign sway. The great Sultan is
+elected from out of the country; but he is compelled to seek the
+ratification of the chiefs, the elders, and the populace within. Then
+there is the great chief of the Kailouees, whose town or camp is at
+Asoudee; with Sultan Lousou, a most influential man; not to speak of the
+great En-Noor himself, who has, perhaps, personally, the greatest
+political weight of them all. Each of these great men is perpetually
+surrounded by an army of retainers, dependants, and slaves; and public
+affairs are transacted, partly according to some old routine, difficult
+for a stranger to understand, partly after the fashion of "Arabian
+Nights," kings meeting casually at the head of great armies in some
+poetical wilderness. All these chieftains are both pastors and
+merchants. One of their chief articles of traffic is, I am sorry to say,
+their unfortunate fellow-creatures. They are the greatest slave-dealers
+in the Sahara; two-thirds of the whole commerce is in the hands of the
+Kailouees. The Sultans levy duties likewise on the caravans that pass
+through their territory--duties which, to our cost, we know to be
+neither regular nor moderate; but they have no right to apply taxation
+to their quasi-subjects. Sometimes, when they are "hungry," they make a
+razzia on a distant tribe, and find both slaves and cattle at their
+disposal.
+
+As might have been expected, the Kailouees--princes and people--are not
+very refined in their ideas or luxurious in their habits. Their food
+consists principally of the grains ghaseb and ghafouley, or guinea-corn.
+They have also flocks and herds of sheep, camels, and bullocks; but the
+bullocks are used chiefly for draft, and to carry goods from Aheer to
+Soudan. Asses are exceedingly numerous, and likewise go to Soudan to
+fetch guinea-corn. The population of Aheer, being scattered about in
+small towns and villages, a few hours journey apart, these animals are
+found very useful for the transport of the persons and effects of the
+poor. The richer people have camels of the maharee species, like all the
+Tuaricks; and in some respects it is the possession of this splendid
+animal which distinguishes the Kailouee population from the people to
+the south. For example, all their sports and pastimes would be exactly
+Soudanese, were it not for the introduction of the maharee. On the
+celebration of a wedding, the Kailouees ride round the groups of guests
+on their silent-treading camels, which measure their movements to the
+sound of a big rude drum. Such scenes would otherwise be perfectly
+Nigritian. The men dance, flourishing their lances; and the slaves both
+dance and sing. But I have already noted down all that I observed
+remarkable in manners, and need not here repeat myself.
+
+The great natural features of Asben, also, are doubtless by this time
+impressed on the mind of the reader. They consist of a series of naked
+granite rocks or mountains, some of them rising to upwards of three or
+four thousand feet, ranging in every direction, with many isolated
+peaks; and of picturesque valleys winding along between steep
+precipices--threads of green, in which the tholukh and all species of
+mimosa and acacia, with the souag and other trees, flourish in immense
+growth, sometimes adorned by garlands and festoons of luxuriant
+parasitical plants. Wild animals of various kinds range at will in
+unfrequented places, but do not seem to excite much terror. There are
+gardens and cornfields in the neighbourhood of some of the towns and
+villages, the cultivation being kept up during the dry months by
+irrigation; but only a few of the inhabitants, mostly slaves, cultivate
+the soil. Besides the grains I have mentioned, a few vegetables,
+principally onions, are produced. Date-palms bear fruit, which is good,
+but will not keep.
+
+I have already mentioned the chief manufactures of Aheer. They flourish
+to the greatest extent in Aghadez; but Tintalous also has its artizans.
+Working in leather was very popular during our stay, in consequence of
+the presence of a noted charm-writer--bags being necessary. A good many
+cunning blacksmiths ply their trade in various places.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+Projected Departure for Damerghou--False Start--Picturesque
+Caravan--Sultan's Views of White Skins--My Birthday--The Sultan fights
+his Battles over again--His Opinion of Women--Bragging--The Razzia on
+the Fadeea--Political News in the Desert--Cold Weather--Continue our
+Journey--Bornouese Fighis--Tin-Tagannu--Trap for a Lion--Mousa's
+Camels--A further Delay--Jackals and the Fire--Language of
+Signs--Tintalousian Coquettes--Departure of the Zinder Caravan--Natural
+Features--Languages--The Kilgris--Killing Lice--The Razzia to the
+North--Present of a Draught-board--Pagan Nations--Favourable Reports.
+
+
+_Nov. 2d._--As this was the day fixed for our departure for Damerghou,
+it may well be imagined that we looked forward to it with some anxiety.
+Our delay in the neighbourhood of Tintalous had been unexpectedly long,
+and at times even the idea had crossed our minds that we should never be
+allowed to depart at all. Often we had desired to start alone; but had
+been withheld by our own prudence, as well as by the representations of
+our host, the venerable Sheikh of Tintalous. We had come by degrees
+scarcely to believe in the possibility of an advance, and to consider
+ourselves as the prisoners of circumstances in this advanced part of the
+Sahara, touching on the very borders of Central Africa. Now, however, we
+saw, by the bustle of preparation in the town, that, whether the
+salt-caravan arrived or not, we were to press forward. All night the
+town was in a bustle. We rose before sunrise, to complete what packing
+we had to do, and saw Jupiter and the moon in positions nearly
+resembling the Ottoman device. It was windy all yesterday and this
+morning, with a considerable degree of cold.
+
+To my astonishment when we had taken leave of Tintalous, we pitched tent
+after half an hour's journey. This was done, however, for a twofold
+reason: 1st, to see that all was right, and that we had left nothing
+behind; and 2d, to buy ghaseb,--a supply having arrived from Asoudee
+just in time for us to carry with us. Never was there a more picturesque
+caravan. Ladies on bullocks, children and women on donkeys, warriors on
+maharees, merchants on camels, the Sultan's horse harnessed going alone,
+and following steadily; goats and their kids, sheep, foals of camels,
+&c. running or straggling along! When we had pitched tent in the valley,
+still in sight of Tintalous, En-Noor paid us a visit, and vouchsafed to
+explain the reasons of our delay. His highness also related several
+interesting things of Aghadez. The Sultan of that place, he says, is a
+descendant of one of three brothers, Shereefs, who ruled in Africa over
+the negro and other races. The eldest brother was Sultan of the West
+(Morocco); the next was Sultan of Bornou; and the third and youngest was
+Sultan of Aghadez in remote times. But how remote, it is impossible for
+En-Noor to tell, and, of course, for me to relate. I was much amazed by
+the predilection of En-Noor (who is not absolutely a white man) for
+black people. He praised Overweg, because he was getting brown and
+black. As for me, his highness was almost inclined to express his
+disgust for the whiteness of my skin. Unfortunately, I happen to be what
+the people call in England "very fair," except in those parts of my skin
+which come in direct contact with the sun. I spent the day in compiling
+a Haussa vocabulary, and hope to make considerable progress by the time
+we arrive in Damerghou.
+
+_3d._--This was my birthday, but of course it was unkept, and, indeed,
+almost unthought of until it was past.
+
+En-Noor again visited us, and drank with us coffee. His highness is
+getting quite attached to my tent, and swears that when I return to my
+country I must become a great man, and be made, like himself, a governor
+or sultan of some country. Shall I say, Inshallah? I asked Yusuf to
+explain why the Sultan thought so, and I could only learn that it was
+the opinion which his highness had formed from my general conduct.
+
+Being in a very happy humour to-day, the Sultan related many things of
+his youth; his exploits, of course, which all men relate, and which I
+shall likewise do, I imagine, if I live to be old. Showing us his
+withered fleshless arms, and taking hold of his armlets, he observed:
+"The time was when these armlets could not slip off. Now, see how easily
+they come away." He then abused me for my leanness, and admired the
+Taleb (Overweg), because he had more flesh on his bones. His highness
+also stated that he and a single man went to Damerghou and back in
+thirteen days, bringing a caravan of ghaseb. They never stopped on the
+road, but travelled day and night. This garrulous gentleman also
+declared he was the maker of his own fortunes--that he would not receive
+anything from his father. When he was young, he would take no person's
+advice; he did everything himself and from himself: but on the death of
+his father he always kept to his post as Sheikh of Tintalous, and Sultan
+of two towns in Soudan. He never moved this way or that way. Thus he has
+remained to a good old age, respected and venerated by all, whilst all
+his compeers have disappeared--not one remaining. He looks around for
+the friends and companions of his youth, and finds not one--they are all
+gone! Even now he allows no one in Asben to be greater than himself.
+Even if a Sultan presumes to lord it over him, he (En-Noor) at once
+knocks him down, and he is no longer Sultan in Asben. He remains,
+however, friends with all if he can. He never takes notice of anything
+which is not done under his own eyes; but when he sees a bad thing
+committed, he then acts--killing the wicked people, if necessary.
+
+The opinion of his highness of women does not flatter the ladies. He
+recommended us never to listen to the advice of our wives; if we did, we
+should be lost. The women were very well to fetch water, pound ghaseb,
+and cook the supper, but for nothing else. He never, himself, paid any
+attention to what they said; they were awful talkers. His highness here
+touched on a tender point; for, as the reader remembers, he has been
+beating one of his wives shamefully lately, because he pretended he was
+alarmed at her continual talking--bewildered by the length of her
+tongue! Proceeding in his confessions, the Sultan next related wonderful
+stories of a wonderful maharee which he had in his youth. With this
+maharee he rode to Aghadez in one day. With this maharee he chased, and
+run down, and won gazelles, and then cooked and ate them, &c. Glorious
+old fellow! Our Tanelkum Mousa, however, afterwards observed, that this
+was _kitheb_, "a lie;" but that he knew a woman who could catch
+gazelles. Many other things of equal interest his highness related, and
+then left us in a good humour.
+
+Two of our camels strayed this evening. En-Noor's people soon brought
+them back. Our servants are very careless, and all our mishaps are a
+profit to the Kailouees. We have still, however, two camels lost, and, I
+imagine, shall not now recover them. But I was glad to hear the news
+that the Sultan of Asoudee was successfully chastising all the people
+who on the road attacked us. He had punished the people of Azaghar and
+of Seloufeeat, even the son of Haj Bashaw; and the Haj himself, who was
+said to be our friend, because he did not look after his son. The Sultan
+acts quite according to my opinion, making all the principal people of
+Seloufeeat and other places responsible for the conduct of the poorer
+and lower classes. It is said that the Fadeea have fled; but others say
+that they have been captured, and all our property which could be found
+seized in the name of the Sultan of Asoudee. All the steps taken by this
+Sultan have been directed, more or less, by En-Noor. He can muster, it
+is said, two thousand warriors--for every able-bodied man fights in this
+country. This expedition may be useful for future travellers from
+Europe, but I fear we shall get back none of our property.
+
+As a specimen of the political news strained through the brains of the
+people of Tuat, I may mention that the Tuatee, recently arrived here,
+reports that "the King of the Frenchmen has run away to England, and
+carried with him all the money of the French," and, moreover, that "as
+the French conquered Algiers by distributing large dollars to every one,
+and hold it by the same means, the French now having no money, must soon
+relinquish Algiers again to the hands of the Muslims."
+
+_4th._--The weather is getting colder and colder. The last few days have
+been quite chilly, with a strong wind blowing from the east. This
+morning it was quite uncomfortable, the thermometer having fallen for
+the first time to 60 deg. at sunset. We started early, and made seven hours
+in a south-eastern direction. It was a nice ride; but as the day
+advanced we got much sunburnt. After three hours we passed on the left
+the little village Zouazgher. The caravan showed again very
+picturesquely, the burdens tumbling off from the donkeys in the most
+delightful confusion, and the girls squalling for help. I ate on the
+road some Soudan dates, as they are called by the Arabs, and found them
+pleasant--a sort of bitter sweet. The name of the tree and of the fruit
+is, in Bornou, _bitu_. In Haussa the tree has two names, _aduwa_ and
+_tinku_. Our course to day was up a fine valley, down which the water in
+the rainy season runs from east to west. There was abundance of trees
+and herbage. At this place, however, lions abound, and last night a
+camel was eaten by them. We encamped opposite a mountain, rising pretty
+high in sugar-loaf shape, called Adudai. Over the carcase of the camel
+hovered a small flock of eagles.
+
+A Bornouee fighi, called Mustapha, from the country Malamdi, west of
+Kuka, tells us he has been six months at Aghadez. According to him, the
+route from Aghadez to Timbuctoo is one month. It is open, and not
+dangerous. En-Noor, indeed, promised to send any of us by that route if
+we wished. There are few people on the route, and if you pay them a
+little money you pass unmolested. This Bornouese fighi is not equal to
+his brethren whom I saw in Tintalous. But I learnt from this itinerant
+pedagogue the interesting fact, that there are a great number of persons
+of his profession, all from Bornou, travelling about in Aheer. Light,
+therefore, is springing up from the interior, and spreading to the coast
+in an opposite direction to what it did in former times.
+
+_5th._--Warmer weather greeted us this morning. We stay here to-day. The
+place is called Tin-Tagannu, and is a large wady, full of herbage and
+trees. It is inhabited by a few shepherds. This place is said to have
+been the first of the inhabited localities in Aheer, although now
+shepherds only drive their flocks there; so that spots of earth have
+their seasons and fortunes in the Sahara as elsewhere. By the way, I
+must continue to call this Sahara. Although there are periodic rains, we
+are still without the influences of the Soudan climate, which begins at
+Damerghou and Zinder. At the present season no country can be more
+healthy than these Asbenouee valleys. I hear that nearly all the women,
+as well as the men, have left Tintalous, so that the town is a perfect
+desert. En-Noor has brought his wives and daughters, and our caravan is
+like the migration of the whole of the town going in quest of a new
+country.
+
+A trap was set last night for the lion, but the king of beasts was too
+wise to be caught. En-Noor borrowed a gun of us to make this trap, which
+was of the following description. It was expected that the lion would
+come again to the carcase of the camel; so a hedge of thorns was made
+round the carcase with one opening, where was placed the muzzle of the
+gun, with a large piece of meat tied to the trigger, so that when he
+seized the meat he might fire off the deadly weapon against himself.
+
+This is a fine place for doves, and Overweg shot half a dozen to-day.
+Our Tanelkum, Mousa, informs us of the right way of tending camels. They
+ought never to be tied, but allowed to roam at large. They require also
+to be led through the best valleys, being so far helpless in finding a
+good grazing-place for themselves. He showed us his camels, comparing
+them with ours. And certainly ours, which had their legs tied and were
+not guided to good herbage, could not bear comparison. But, of course,
+the business, the support, the riches of Mousa, are his camels. They
+occupy all his thoughts, and would appear, to a stranger, to be the end
+of his existence.
+
+_6th._--This morning at sunrise the thermometer was as low as 52 deg.
+Fahrenheit. We shivered with cold.
+
+Dr. Barth arrived early by way of Tintalous. He confirms the news that
+the Sultans of Aghadez and Asoudee have completely chastised all those
+tribes who stopped us on the road and levied black mail on us.
+
+En-Noor paid us a visit in the morning. After shaking us all in a very
+friendly manner by the hands, he expressed his regret that he could not
+go with us now to Zinder. The country was not tranquil, and the people
+would not consent to his going; but if we wished to proceed immediately
+with his principal slave, Zangheema, he assured us we should go safely.
+He then left us to reflect upon what we would do. We decided, without a
+dissentient voice, that we could not venture to go with Zangheema, and
+that we must wait for En-Noor, be the time ever so long. We forwarded
+this decision to his highness, who seemed to receive it with
+satisfaction. His wife sent us word, "To be sure not to go without her
+husband;" a piece of advice from a lady we are anxious most religiously
+to respect. Dr. Overweg made an application, through Daubala and Yusuf,
+to go to the salt-mines of Bilma with the Kailouees. But either the
+applicants betrayed the thing, or En-Noor was unwilling to grant
+permission. Our friend, therefore, is disappointed of this most
+interesting geological excursion.
+
+We are to remove a little further to the west, to a valley more
+convenient than this for pitching tents, and under some shelter. We
+still hope we shall not be obliged to await the return of the
+salt-caravan from Bilma (that is, a month, or forty days) before we
+start. Probably, when good news comes from the camp in the west we shall
+go on. It will be a sad trial for our patience to wait so long, after
+having already dallied more than two months in Tintalous.
+
+_7th._--The thermometer at sunrise stood at 51 deg.--very cold. There are no
+signs yet of Zangheema's starting to Damerghou. The people, when sitting
+over the fire in the evening, relate jocosely that the jackals, not
+being able to come near the flame, and nevertheless feeling the cold
+very much, hold up their fore-paws, in a sitting or squatting position,
+in imitation of men, towards the fire, be they at ever so great a
+distance, and so screw up their imaginations to the belief that they are
+warming themselves. The language of gesticulation and signs, by the
+movement of different parts of the body, is quite a study in this part
+of the world. The most singular gesticulation, and yet the most
+significant, is that by which a person begs a thing. He holds the object
+in one hand (the left) before the owner, then gives the right hand and
+arm a swing round, and at last places the right hand to his bosom--the
+meaning of all which is, that he seeks to ascertain if the owner has any
+other article of the same description as that which he holds in his left
+hand, and whether he is willing to give it to him. When a Kailouee says
+a thing is good, he puts the forefinger of his right hand into the
+clasped palm of his left, and so, as he pronounces the thing good,
+_nagari_, he turns his imprisoned finger round within the closed left
+hand. When he says there are many persons, he clasps together the
+fingers of his left hand, and forms a good English fist, holding the
+hand thumb upwards. He then strikes, with the palm of his right hand,
+the fist of his left hand, held in that particular position. This sign
+also represents a more indelicate idea, and is used in the same way on
+the coast.
+
+The women, from the shepherdess to the princess, of Tintalous, are as
+fond of the bustle as European dames; but the important difference is,
+it is the natural bustle which they here delight to exhibit to the
+admiring male population. If a woman be called to, going off to the well
+for water, she does not turn round to see who is calling, but
+immediately draws her frock tight round her form, and imparts to it a
+most agitated and unnatural swinging motion, to the great satisfaction
+of the admiring lookers-on. Thus we see how the coquettes of London and
+Paris meet at opposite poles with these of the Sahara and Central
+Africa.
+
+Additional applications were made to En-Noor by my colleagues, to go
+respectively to Bilma and to Zinder--Dr. Barth wishing to go on with
+Zangheema--but without effect. The old Sheikh remained firm in his
+refusals: Zangheema, however, was the first to start objections to
+Barth's accompanying him. As to Overweg, we think he lost his
+opportunity by not treating directly with En-Noor, instead of Hamma his
+son-in-law. His highness will do nothing extra for us unless paid.
+
+_8th._--We rose early, and found a large portion of the caravan destined
+for Zinder already gone. This is very tiresome to see the people
+starting with whom you were to have gone, and to know that you have
+still thirty or forty days to wait; and as for expenses, living at
+almost as dear a rate as in Tripoli. Our boat has gone with the caravan.
+
+Hereabouts grow a great quantity of wild water-melons, _delaaah_. They
+are very small and bitter, but the people, nevertheless, eat them
+occasionally. If cultivated they would, of course, soon yield an
+excellent supply. Barth represents the road between this and Aghadez as
+very woody, and also that the country is everywhere mountainous. Baghzem
+is not high, but is, nevertheless, a very large mountain, seen several
+days' journey. The high plains without water are also covered with
+trees. I hear, also, that the road between this and Damerghou is
+exceedingly woody, and the trees of "the scratching or rending
+description," like the tholukh. Aheer also abounds in senna.
+
+Yusuf says that all the people of Soudan are red, with the exception of
+the inhabitants of Tesaoua, Kanou, Kashna, and Maradee.
+
+Barth represents Gouber as stronger than ever, and united in alliance
+with Maradee against the Sultan of Sakkatou. He has written all the
+towns. Gouber appears amongst the towns described by Leo Africanus.
+
+_9th._--This morning En-Noor paid us a visit, to tell us to move after
+him in the wady near, under the shade of the trees. His highness was
+very polite and friendly, as he has now been for some time past.
+
+The weather continues cold--thermometer, 49 deg. at sunrise in the air. This
+cold weather ought to strengthen or restore our health. It certainly
+would do us good, much good, if we could get meat and soups.
+
+I sent on our boat yesterday to Zinder, with three of our servants,
+together with some other heavy baggage. I was occupied to-day in
+compiling the Haussa dictionary. Kashna is represented to be the
+fountain of the Haussa language, the Florence of Soudan. Kanou is a
+place of foreigners, and the language of the city must be much
+corrupted. According to En-Noor, _Kal_, in the names _Kal_fadai,
+_Kal_tadak, _Kil_gris, and _Kail_ouee, signifies _country_. There are to
+be added to the zoology of this country the monkey and the _mohur_, or
+fine large gazelle, as large as a deer, called in Haussa _maraia_.
+We already find great differences in the pronunciation of the Haussa
+language, but especially in the following letters:--_sh_ is confounded
+with _ch_ or _tch_, _l_ with _r_, and _r_ with _l_, _o_ with _u_, &c.
+Letters are also frequently unnecessarily doubled. These differences,
+however, will never much affect the conversation, when the parties are
+well agreed upon what subject they are conversing.
+
+_10th._--This morning we are removing to the shade of the trees, near
+En-Noor. Dr. Barth describes the Kilgris as very fine, tall men, and
+much lighter in complexion than the Kailouees: they dress very simply,
+having only the black turkadee on their heads, having neither a bakin
+zakee under it, nor any white shash, or fotah, to wind upon it, in the
+fashion of the Kailouees. They are, like all these tribes, very proud,
+and nourish a deadly enmity towards the Kailouees, of whom they take
+precedence in Aghadez. Barth gave away a black-lead pencil in Aghadez,
+and afterwards everybody came to ask him for one. A person got one
+pencil, and begged another, saying, "the two would last him his whole
+life."
+
+_11th._--The weather is increasingly cold in the morning; three-quarters
+of an hour after sunrise the thermometer was 45 deg. in open air.
+
+His highness vouchsafed this day to sleep in my tent, and yesterday he
+did the Germans the honour of slaughtering lice in theirs. It is a grand
+piece of etiquette in this country, that every man has the privilege of
+murdering his own lice. If you pick a louse off a man's sleeve, you must
+deliver it up instantly to him to be murdered, as his undoubted right
+and privilege.
+
+The Sultan of Aghadez has returned from his razzia against the people of
+Seloufeeat, of Azgher, and the Kalfadai. Those whom he caught he
+chastised: but most of the Fadeea fled. I register these varying
+reports, because they show the state of uncertainty in which we were
+always kept, now hearing one thing, now another. But the true state of
+the case seems to be, that though the great Koku of Aghadez did take the
+field for a razzia, the actual operations were conducted by the Sultan
+of Asoudee. It must be remembered, however, that with their maharees
+these desert-princes can march to and fro with surprising rapidity, and
+that rumour finds it difficult to follow their footsteps. En-Noor now
+thinks the country sufficiently tranquil to move on two days further. He
+says he shall do so in the course of fifteen days.
+
+_12th._--His highness paid me a visit as usual, and I gave him a box
+containing a looking-glass, with a lid, on which is painted a
+draught-board, for the wife of his highness, who recommended us not to
+leave En-Noor, but continue with him until he carried us safely to
+Zinder. His highness expressed great satisfaction for the present; and
+when I told him to take care it was not broken, he observed: "I will
+take especial care of this thing, because there is none like it in this
+country, and it cannot be repaired." He told us also that his ladies
+could play at draughts. I gave him, besides, a piece of green silk for a
+shade for his eyes. He went off immediately, gratified with these little
+presents.
+
+The weather is very pleasant for the study of languages, but the days
+are too short and the nights are too long. Nevertheless, I sleep nearly
+all night this cold weather.
+
+_13th._--Thermometer at sunrise in the open air was 41 deg. 30' Fahr., so
+that the cold increases, this being the lowest which I have yet taken.
+The Germans have had a deal of trouble with Mohammed of Tunis; they
+would send him back, but there is no opportunity of doing so.
+
+Maguzawa and Azna are the names of the pagan nations of Soudan, denoting
+the same people, and not different races. The names answer to the word
+_Kurdi_, in Bornou. These pagans say, in derision of the Muslims, when
+it rains, "Allah must have a large belly," that so much water falls from
+him.
+
+En-Noor describes pagans of Maradee drinking large quantities of _gia_
+(beer, or fermented liquor).
+
+This evening a Gadamsee arrived at the tents, bringing two or three
+slaves from Damerghou. He says the news of our arrival had already
+reached Damerghou--that it was reported there that the Sultan of Aghadez
+had given Barth a black tobe; not, by any means, a bad rumour. He sends
+his slaves to Ghat from this place, and returns immediately to
+Damerghou, taking letters for us to Zinder.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+Medicine for Bad Eyes--A summary Proceeding--News from the
+Salt-Caravan--Towns and Villages of Tesaoua--Earthquakes--Presents for
+the Sultan of Maradee--Yusuf's Insolence--English Money in Aheer--A
+Razzia on the Holy City--Bornouese Studies--Gipsies of Soudan--En-Noor
+and the Marabouts--Ghaseb--State of the Weather--Calculations for the
+Future--Senna--Relations of Man and Wife in Aheer--En-Noor in his
+Family--Gouber and Maradee--Beer-drinking--Study of the Sau--Shara--The
+Oulimad--Lions--Translating Jokes--Digging a Well--Projects.
+
+
+_Nov. 14th._--I wrote this morning, by the slaves going to Ghat, to Mr.
+Bidwell and my wife. En-Noor paid us a visit in the afternoon, and was
+exceedingly civil. He promises me letters for Sakkatou, and to forward
+Overweg to Maradee.
+
+Our servant shot a large vulture to-day. En-Noor having bad eyes,
+ordered the eyes of this bird of prey to be scooped out for a medicine.
+This is not the first time that I have heard of the various parts of
+animals being eaten, or otherwise used, to cure or strengthen the
+corresponding parts in human beings. It seems to be an idea natural to
+people in a rude or semi-barbarous state.
+
+En-Noor related a pretty anecdote of himself and his younger days in our
+tent to-day. After saying, that formerly the Asbenouee people were the
+only folks considered bad in these parts, he observed, that now he
+himself and the Asbenouee were certainly much improved in their manners
+and dispositions; "for," added he, "there were once four fighis
+(charm-writers) who employed people to speak against me, and bring me
+into disrepute. What did I do? I called them to me, gave them fine
+presents of burnouses and a great supper, with an apartment in which to
+pass the night. But when they were fast asleep I dug a large hole,
+fetched them all out of the room, killed them, and covered them up in
+the hole. Now, however," continued his highness, "we do not go so far as
+this, but content ourselves with taking away an enemy's camels."
+
+_15th._--Weather cold this morning. Thermometer at sunrise, 43 deg.. I hang
+the thermometer on the tent-ropes, just outside, at about a foot from
+the ground.
+
+Hamma (son-in-law of En-Noor) returned this morning from the
+salt-caravan. He marked on the sand that the caravan would be
+thirty-five days before it returned; so, I imagine, we have still from
+this time some thirty days to wait here. He left the caravan on its
+entering the Hamadah, between this and Bilma.
+
+
+TOWNS AND VILLAGES OF TESAOUA.
+
+(_From Amankee's relation._)
+
+1. Tesaoua: people 1400; residence of the governor. Two large wells and
+one small one.
+
+2. Harmaua: 500. A little water.
+
+3. Ungua Korna: 400. One well, much water.
+
+4. Haidaua: 500. One well, and much water.
+
+5. Nuwala: 500 or 600. No water; but only half an hour from Haidaua.
+
+6. Nachira: 800, scattered about in small groups. Much water.
+
+7. Ungua-guka: 500. One well.
+
+8. Ungua-tallai: 400. Much water.
+
+9. Gindaua: 1000. Large wells; few trees.
+
+10. Saulawa: 40 or 50.
+
+The capital and nearly all this country is full of trees. Not a stone is
+to be seen, and the soil is sandy.
+
+The Sultan, or Governor of Tesaoua, is subject to the sovereign of
+Maradee, who is the only independent black prince in this part of
+Africa. The inhabitants are mixed, pagans and Muslims, but these last
+are not bigoted.
+
+En-Noor visited us this evening, and I asked him if he recollected
+earthquakes in this country. The old Sheikh emphatically replied,
+_Babo_, "There are none."
+
+_16th._--Barth has picked up a good many words in Aghadez, mostly
+correct.
+
+_17th._--It was colder this morning, although yesterday was very
+pleasant. Thermometer at sunrise, 41 deg..
+
+It is expected that we shall still remain here thirty days, which time,
+if divided half between Haussa and half between Bornouee, will help me
+on in these languages, the principal of the interior of Africa. Mohammed
+Tunisee is now the servant of Barth alone. Overweg has given him up.
+
+Yesterday morning I gave Overweg the presents for the Sultan of Maradee,
+to whom he intends to go on a mission, in the same way as Barth went to
+Aghadez. The presents consist of a fine burnouse, a fine shasheeah (five
+mahboubs), two pieces of coloured cotton cloth, two heads of white
+sugar, knives, scissors, cinnamon, looking-glasses, beads, &c. I hope he
+will not return without bringing back the treaty signed. He is also to
+make some arrangement for the establishment of the missionaries in
+Maradee.
+
+To-day we had prayers in Overweg's tent. I read several short prayers
+from the Church of England prayer-book, and also the Gospel and Epistle
+for the Sunday.
+
+_18th._--Yesterday evening it was cloudy, and the moon had, for several
+hours, an immense elliptical ring round it--a common phenomenon in the
+northern Sahara.
+
+To-day Yusuf got up in a rage, and threw down his writing, because I
+told him he did not take pains to obtain from the people the several
+meanings of the words. This has been the case for most of the time we
+have been occupied with the vocabulary. I have therefore left him to
+himself, since he insulted me in this manner before the servants, and I
+fear I cannot trust myself to go with him to Sakkatou. It is a great
+inconvenience, but I must search for a kateb (writer) at Zinder. There
+are many poor men of this profession in Bornou, and very faithful
+people.
+
+_19th._--His highness En-Noor continues to visit us. Yesterday I gave
+him an English silver fourpenny piece, an English farthing, and a small
+French silver coin, with all of which he was greatly delighted. He
+summed up their value in wada; fifty wadas are an English penny. He
+admired her majesty's face on the silver fourpence; but his shadow, the
+man who generally comes with him, said,--"Oh, no, the face of the woman
+for a Sultan is not good. _This_ is good," pointing to the head of Louis
+Philippe.
+
+The news came yesterday evening that a razzia had just been made on
+Tintaghoda, the assailants carrying away everything before them, and the
+inhabitants of the town fleeing to the mountains. This razzia was made
+by the people whom the Sultan of Aghadez has lately punished for the
+depredations committed on us and other caravans on the road. When this
+took place there were a few people at Tintalous, who, on hearing the
+news, came off immediately to us after En-Noor, so that now there does
+not remain a single inhabitant in the village. The people of the razzia
+were much disappointed at finding no more camels, all those of the
+villages hereabouts, and indeed through all Aheer, being gone to fetch
+salt from Bilma. They wished to make up the number of camels which the
+Sultan of Aghadez took away from them. Of course, when the salt-caravan
+returns, an effort will be made to avenge this insult on the holy city
+of Aheer--this profanation of the abode of marabouts! It is singular,
+nevertheless, that only a year ago some neighbouring tribes, thinking
+these holy men had too much wealth, carried off a large number of their
+camels. This is the much-vaunted place amongst the credulous Moorish
+merchants of the coast, where theft and robbery are unknown!
+
+_21st._--A foggy _November_ morning! But this change of the atmosphere
+is very rare, and soon passes away. It is amazing how steady the seasons
+are, and how they roll, each bringing its accustomed weather and tunes.
+
+Yesterday I began my Bornou studies, not knowing whether I shall go
+first to Bornou or Soudan. I intend, if my health be preserved, to make
+a dictionary of the Bornou and Soudan languages together, for the sake
+of commerce and general information. I hope Government will print it, or
+if not Government, the Philological Society.
+
+_Abizgen_ is a fruit which abounds in Aheer. It is half the size of
+small currants, and has not a disagreeable taste--a sort of bitter-sweet
+clammy taste. This fruit may be called Aheer currants.
+
+In the neighbourhood of our encampment have been seen gazelles,
+ostriches, and monkeys, in considerable numbers.
+
+_22d._--En-Noor went off yesterday morning early, to visit a great
+marabout in the neighbourhood. This will enable us to apply ourselves
+closely to the languages, all day long. Occupied as I am with Soudanese
+and Bornouese, all the days fly away swifter than arrows shot by the
+most expert archers. En-Noor is expected to return in the course of four
+or five days. We have now all the village of Tintalous with us. It is
+Tintalous encamped out in the valley.
+
+_23d._--The orient sky flamed this morning with a pure yellow flame,
+amidst a somewhat murky atmosphere.
+
+Most of the people have a fire all night. In the morning they cower over
+it like inhabitants of the poles. Of course we as well as they, having
+been baked in the summer's sun, now feel the cold most acutely.
+
+There is a species of people scattered through Soudan which correspond
+to our gipsies, called Maguzawa (sing. Bamaguzai). These are
+essentially a merry, care-nothing people, always half tipsy, and always
+full of fun. They, however, work a little in agriculture; differing from
+our gipsies, who are little more than itinerant tinkers. A boy was shown
+to me to-day, whom his parents had christened _Butu_, "worthless." It is
+related that his mother had many children before him, all of whom died,
+and when he came into the world the people or neighbours all cried,
+"_Butu! Butu!_" i.e. "He will come to nothing." Then, it is added, "God
+seeing the people gave him a bad name, determined in compassion to
+preserve his life, and so his life was preserved to this day."
+
+En-Noor returned this evening from his visit to the marabout.--It is my
+intention to send home fifty thousand African words for this expedition.
+What future expeditions may do, if my life be spared, I cannot tell. I
+speak for this. I imagine I have already sent to the Foreign Office six
+thousand. I shall have five thousand, I hope, by the time I get to
+Zinder--three of Soudanese, and two of Bornouese. I must try to get a
+few words of the Aghadez language. These I can get, probably, at
+Sakkatou. I must have another writer, or fighi. My present Bornouese
+fighi is a very poor fellow.
+
+_24th._--The Sunday soon came again, with the study of languages. Now
+the time of our waiting here does not appear to be long enough. I have a
+commercial dictionary to make.
+
+En-Noor came to us after his return from his visit to his marabout
+friend. He says of the late razzia at Tintaghoda, that the marabouts of
+that town brought it all upon themselves, being the first to begin to
+countenance attacks upon caravans (that is, ours). He does not pity
+them; he does not care for them; and, he added, "They have now lost all
+their reputation amongst the people." The fact is, when we came the
+marabouts did not know what course to take, whether to attack us or to
+receive us; so they chose the former, in their blinded judgment, and
+brought all this evil upon their heads.
+
+The Fadeea, or Kalfadai, have decamped with their booty and their
+families to the Hagar, beyond the reach of recapture or revenge.
+
+A scorpion was found in my tent to-day, running across the sandy floor.
+We look upon them now as nearly harmless, whilst the cold weather has
+deprived them of all force.
+
+_25th._--Occupied with the languages. Time passes quickly.
+
+_26th._--Began the Bornou grammar.
+
+_27th._--A visit from En-Noor. He put on one of my gloves, and was much
+amused with it. He held out his hand, and put it on the face of his
+courtiers--showing fight. It was very white, which gave him occasion to
+pass to my skin, and pity my being so white. I made several useful
+remarks on Haussa grammar, and begin to understand the genius of the
+language.
+
+A caravan of ghaseb has arrived from Damerghou, by which we learn that
+the Sfaxee and Fezzan merchants are arrived in that country. We have
+been trying to buy ghaseb of the people, or of En-Noor; but it appears
+we were too late, for it is said to be all gone. The dollars are worth
+only 1750 wadas here, whilst in Kanou they pass for 2500. Every article
+is depreciated in value in Aheer, because food is scarce. We have,
+however, managed to purchase a bullock--a great beast.
+
+_28th._--I did not feel so well after the meat-eating; we have had so
+little of it, and so seldom, that a little extra quite upsets me, and
+the gnawing it makes all my teeth bleed. Thermometer, 50 deg.. The weather
+has changed to mistiness, haziness. It is now reported that we still
+remain here twenty-five days longer, the caravan arriving only in twenty
+days, and five being allowed to rest the camels. So we have time enough
+for the Haussa and Bornou languages. I wish to master the grammar of
+each, so as to superintend some translation of the Scriptures.
+
+_29th._--The weather is still hazy, and warmer; but whilst it is warmer
+in the morning it is cooler in the mid-day, on account of the clouds and
+haze. Half an hour after sunrise, thermometer 56 deg..
+
+En-Noor says we shall start in seventeen days, but ten days more or less
+for these people are nothing. Our courier for the money has just been
+gone thirty-three days. If, happily, he arrive to day, he will save a
+week of the Shantah from Mourzuk to Tripoli. If we remain here now
+twenty-five days, and are thirty-five days more before we arrive at
+Zinder, that will be sixty days. I shall then have only twenty days more
+to wait till the expiration of the four months, when I may expect the
+courier to return. Thus I hope to have the money to pay the Sfaxee
+before I go to Sakkatou. But, alas! such calculations are extremely
+uncertain, and we cannot tell what a day may bring forth. For our
+support and safety we must repose firmly in the goodness of an Almighty
+Providence.
+
+_Nov. 30th to Dec. 3d._--The weather has been mild these last few days;
+this morning, half an hour after sunrise, thermometer 51 deg..
+
+En-Noor has been to pay a visit to the Sultan of Asoudee, meeting him at
+some neighbouring village. There was a council respecting the affairs of
+the tribe of the Iteesan, who are fighting amongst themselves; but no
+news has transpired since his return. The old sheikh is in good health
+and spirits, which he attributes partly to drinking my coffee twice and
+thrice a-day. He says we shall leave here in the course of twelve days.
+
+Senna is grown, or rather collected, in all the districts of Aheer; but
+it is cheap now, and does not fetch the price in Tripoli which it
+formerly did; many other as suitable purgatives being found in Europe, I
+suppose. Senna is, besides, procured from the district of the Tibboos of
+Bilma, and some of this is still sent to Tripoli. Bornou has also much
+senna, but it does not pay the expense of forwarding it to Tripoli.
+
+The relations of man and wife in Aheer are curious, if not
+extraordinary. A woman never leaves the home of her father! When a man
+marries a woman, he remains with her a few weeks, and then, if he will
+not take up his residence in the town or village of his wife, he must
+return to his own place without her. When a man sees a woman who pleases
+him, he offers the parents a price for her--say, four camels. If the
+parents agree that the price is adequate to the charms or the rank of
+their daughter, the bargain is concluded. These four camels remain
+always the property of the wife, with which she supports herself,
+sending them to Soudan or to Bilma, fetching ghaseb or salt. Many of the
+women have a large property obtained in this way. When their husbands
+visit them, they give them something to eat, and they remain a few days
+or weeks; and again depart to their own native towns, leaving the wife
+with her property, and any chance lover. But the men marry two or three
+wives, and so are constantly in motion, first going to visit one wife
+and then another. Thus the male population of this country is kept in a
+continually restless state of activity--roaming about here and there,
+marrying another and another wife, if their means will permit them. The
+women, of course, left in this way, and unrestrained by any high moral
+motives, take as many lovers as they dare, or can secretly dispose of.
+It appears that En-Noor always disapproved of this strange system, and
+swore he would never marry a wife, because he should be obliged to go to
+another town to reside there, and so be exposed to having an inferior
+position, the authorities of the town of his wife pretending to exercise
+jurisdiction over him. All his women have ever been slaves. His highness
+is now living amidst his daughters and their children--the men who
+married them being all away in their own native countries. A daughter of
+En-Noor costs ten camels, and this is considered a very high price for a
+woman. With two or three camels, a woman manages to support herself and
+children. If the husbands of En-Noor's daughters be ever so poor, he
+never gives them anything but a little food. They must come and reside
+in his town. His highness passes all his evenings amidst this circle of
+women--his female slaves, his daughters, and granddaughters.
+
+The population of Gouber and Maradee together may be about 1500.
+
+_Maradee_, capital of Maradee, and residence of the Siriki.
+
+_Jinubakai_ is the second division of the country, inhabited wholly by
+the pagans or gia-drinkers (beer-drinkers); not, therefore, Mahometans.
+
+_Gouber_ (Gubar), is the name of the country, of which the capital and
+residence of the sultan is _Chibri_. This country consists of a large
+city (Chibri), and several small villages, some fifty or sixty; two are
+here mentioned, Gomer and Sanna.
+
+These two countries of Gouber and Maradee are now in alliance against
+the Sultan of Sakkatou, i.e. of the Fellatahs, and mutually inflict
+razzias upon one another. Tesaoua is in close connexion with these
+ancient Kohlan countries, and is, indeed, a province of Maradee. There
+are mixed up with the population a number of people, emigrants from
+Aheer, called Buzai; but these Aheer Tuaricks have lost both their
+language and nationality, retaining merely the name, to denote their
+origin. So, in all probability, were more people and of other countries
+to emigrate to Soudan, they would soon become Soudanee, and lose their
+nationality. In these countries of Soudan above-mentioned, Mahommedanism
+has been but lately professed. But the great distinguishing mark between
+paganism and Mahommedanism appears to be the drinking or not drinking
+gia, the latter being the people who of course abstain from this
+intoxicating beverage.
+
+Overweg says, that within three-quarters of an hour's walk are found
+hereabout granite, sandstone, and basalt, a variety of stones somewhat
+remarkable.
+
+The study of _sau_, "footsteps" of men and animals, is quite a science
+in this part of the world. The Fezzanee are reckoned the most expert in
+this knowledge; they are said to be able to distinguish the footsteps of
+people when printed upon the trunk of a palm, the print-step being made
+by dipping the feet in water! As to animals, the people observe near the
+neighbouring rocks the sau of the lion--a very deep, heavy impression of
+his five claws, of the monkey, the hare, the gazelle, the fox, the
+jackal, the hyaena, the mouse, &c. &c. Indeed, we appear to be
+surrounded with animals; and in the morning I found the sau of the dog,
+the cat, the hare, and the mouse, on the sandy floor of my tent. It is
+my intention, before I leave Africa, to draw the forms of the footsteps
+of the more remarkable animals. _Inshallah!_
+
+_4th._--Visit from his highness the Sheikh every day. He is now kind
+enough to send me every morning--at the suggestion of his principal
+wife--a small can of milk, which, besides the value of the milk itself,
+saves my sugar, enabling me to drink tea and coffee without sweetening.
+This evening the _shara_ was brought of the arrival of couriers from the
+salt-caravan, to say it was near. Like the Arabs, for this shara or
+news, or first advice of the coming of something good or agreeable, the
+Kailouees ask some present. We gave a little bit of sugar to the slave
+who brought the welcome intelligence.
+
+_Dec. 5th to 9th._--I was occupied with vocabulary of Haussa and Bornou.
+Weather mild and misty, but a little cold this morning; thermometer, at
+three-quarters of an hour after sunrise, 43 deg..
+
+Nearly all the salt-caravan has arrived, and proceeded in advance,
+coming in small detachments. They rendezvous in a fine wady full of
+herbage, with water higher up. We are expected to leave in a few days,
+three or four at most. Nothing seems now to detain En-Noor. But the
+Fadeea have returned from the Hagar, finding themselves not pursued.
+They very naturally prefer their own fine valley in Asben to the stony,
+desert wilds of Hagars. I suppose a razzia will be executed against
+them, for the restoration of the camels of Tintaghoda, on the return of
+the salt-caravan from Soudan.
+
+En-Noor gives a tremendously unfavourable account of the Oulimad, who
+occupy the desert of Sahara between Aghadez and Timbuctoo, and keep the
+road there shut against caravans. He says, they would sleep in our tents
+in the day, eat and drink with us; but in the night they would carry
+away the tent, and make themselves clothing with it. In fact, En-Noor
+considers them the veriest barbarians in this region of Africa. There
+may be a little exaggeration in this, and the Oulimad may not be worse
+than the Hagars of Ghemama, or even than some of his own people. The
+Kailouees do not hunt, nor do they cultivate the soil; so that this
+country abounds with animals. Some of the country is extremely wild and
+rocky, and affords many a retired den for the lions, who descend from
+the rocks and prowl abroad for prey in great numbers. Their footmarks
+frequently cover the length and breadth of the wadys. Barth himself saw
+(very fortunately, for it is a sight seen by very few persons indeed) as
+many as five together. Monkeys also abound in great numbers. I related
+to En-Noor the anecdote, as a joke, of the monkey shaving the cat in
+Paris; but this he took seriously, for he observed, "That is nothing; I
+have seen the monkeys crack lice just like men." It is always a
+difficult matter to translate a joke to these people. Overweg has been
+out these last two days hunting for ostrich eggs, in the places which
+these birds frequent. He saw their footprints, dung, feathers, &c., and
+two specimens, but found no eggs. It appears this is a most difficult
+bird to catch.
+
+En-Noor continues to be very friendly. I get milk now every morning, for
+which I pay sugar and coffee. His highness and his people went out
+yesterday to dig a well, about two hours distant. All the water in this
+place is exhausted. It appears to be merely a deposit of rain-water
+under the sand, at a depth of from four or five to eight feet. It
+becomes, as in this case, entirely exhausted before the commencement of
+the next rains; but of course there are some springs, and many wells
+which are not dried up during the whole year.
+
+N.B.--If I remain a month at Zinder, I must make a little excursion
+amongst the Bornou villages and see the rustic life of the people; but I
+fear it will be a bad place to hear the pure Bornouese language. I still
+hope to go off early to Sakkatou, and finish quickly with Soudan. In
+these matters the Germans are better off than I am, and have not to wait
+for money.[10]
+
+ [10] Nearly the whole of this long account of a residence in
+      Aheer consists in the journals of Mr. Richardson of
+      disjointed fragments, jotted down almost without any
+      connexion. This was necessarily the case. Few incidents,
+      save an occasional visit from thieves, or a dispute with
+      that strange old gentleman, Sultan En-Noor, diversified
+      this period. However, the simple commonplace book of a
+      traveller in a totally new country can never be without its
+      interest. No doubt Mr. Richardson would have attempted, had
+      he survived, to throw all these observations into a
+      picture; but any attempt to do so on my part would have
+      probably resulted in the omission of characteristic traits,
+      and the introduction of extraneous ideas. The following
+      chapters appear to me to increase in interest, page by
+      page.--ED.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+Razzia on the Fadeea--Haussa--Names of Places--Ant-track--Circular
+Letter from Mourzuk--Vast Rock--Mustapha Bey's Letter--Effects of
+Water--Butterflies--Aspect of the Country--A Slave advanced
+to Honour--Shonshona--Herbage--Birds--Appearance of the
+Salt-Caravan--Colours of Dawn--Bilma Salt--Mode of Barter--Pass the Rock
+of Mari--Granite--Indigo Plant--Presents at Stamboul--The Sultan begs
+again--Old Men's Importunities--Baghzem--Curiosities of the
+Route--People of Damerghou--Temporary Village of Women--Country begins
+to open--Barter Transaction with Lady En-Noor.
+
+
+_Dec. 10th._--I rose before the sunrise; the coldest morning we have
+had; thermometer at half-an-hour after sunrise, 38 deg..
+
+It is reported that we leave here to-morrow, or the day following. There
+is arrived from Aghadez the first man of that city after the sultan,
+called Amagai. He is come here respecting the affairs of the Fadeea.
+En-Noor also asked to-day for a list of all the things taken by force
+from us on the frontiers. It appears the Sultan of Aghadez had captured
+the Sheikh of the Fadeea, or some one sheikh, and allowed him to go out
+of prison on the promise that he would restore all the things taken from
+us--but not to us; so these Sultans and Sheikhs of Aheer will probably
+get all these things back, and divide the spoil. But, nevertheless, it
+is better that the people in authority should have them, than that they
+should remain in the possession of the robbers, the lawless plundering
+tribes of the frontier. Probably these people will be more cautious how
+they plunder another caravan of Christians. It will always be a
+satisfaction to us that the robbers were made to disgorge their booty. I
+have also heard that a small camel was brought in exchange for my large
+lost one; and En-Noor sent it back, ordering them to restore the large
+camel of the boat. My camel has been to fetch salt from Bilma.
+
+The children call Tesaoua, and the countries thereabout, Haussa, and say
+it is near, and that they go on donkeys. From this it is certain this
+portion of Soudan still has the ancient name of Haussa. Afaou is merely
+the Bornou name for Haussa, there being no place or district of that
+name. All these countries have most of them two names, or two
+pronunciations of the same name; one by the natives, and one by the
+Moorish merchants and other strangers. Thus the village of En-Noor is
+called by strangers Tintalous, and by the people themselves Chintullus.
+Travellers had better adhere to the name the place has amongst the
+strangers and foreign merchants, otherwise their narrative might be
+questioned by the people abroad, who do not know the native name.
+Maradee has its native name of Mariadi, but if you were to mention this
+name in Mourzuk and Tripoli none would know the country of which you
+were speaking. In fact, it is just the same as calling Florence Firenza,
+when speaking to persons who have not travelled in Tuscany, or who are
+unacquainted with Italian. I continue much occupied with the Bornouese
+and Haussa languages, and am now collecting the names of insects and
+animals. This is extremely difficult, as for many of the animals of
+Soudan there are no Arabic names.
+
+I measured an ant-track, and found it 125 feet. The ants were fetching
+the cottony dried blossom of a withered plant, and were amazingly busy.
+The tracks did not wind much. I noticed, also, in my walk, the footmarks
+of hares and many other animals. This country is full of live things.
+
+_11th._--I rose before sunrise; this is the coldest morning I have yet
+had, according to the thermometer, which was only two degrees above the
+freezing point (34 deg.).
+
+A circular letter arrived to-day from Aghadez, addressed to all the
+Tuaricks, written by Mustapha Bey of Mourzuk, recommending them to
+render us all necessary protection. It is dated back two months.
+Probably this letter was written on account of the unfavourable
+intelligence which reached Mourzuk respecting us. To-morrow, please God,
+we start for Soudan.
+
+_12th._--Thank God! we left our encampment of Chintagawna this morning.
+And oh, most gracious God! give us a prosperous journey, and may we be
+useful to ourselves and our fellow-creatures.
+
+We started about eleven o'clock, and went on about three hours and
+a-half. The day was very cool; the thermometer in the morning, at
+sunrise, being only three degrees above the freezing-point. We expect to
+see the water freeze on the high plains through which we are about to
+pass, before arriving at Damerghou. Our encampment is a pleasant wady,
+under a conical-formed rock of considerable elevation, perhaps 1500
+feet. We are also in a high situation, some 1000 or more feet above the
+level of the sea. There is near this rock a lower one of an oblong form,
+its sides fluted with pillars; these columnar masses are basalt. Dr.
+Overweg examined the rocks, and found the outer crust a new species of
+rock, a sort of trachite or brachite; and the interior a sort of basalt,
+or volcanic substance. The large rock is also of the same formation. Dr.
+Barth ascended the large rock.
+
+I am now told that I made a great mistake about the wording of the
+circular letter of Mustapha Bey. This letter begins by thanking the
+Tuaricks of Aheer for exterminating the Walad Suleiman! It then hints
+broadly at the necessity for the Turks in Mourzuk and the Tuaricks of
+Aheer being friends; and to maintain this friendship one important
+condition is required--that they, the Tuaricks of Aheer, shall protect
+all the merchants or other travellers passing through their country, and
+coming from Mourzuk. In the event of their committing a bad action, the
+Bey says he may be compelled to make reprisals; so it is quite clear the
+letter is written entirely on our account, and perhaps is a preliminary
+measure to making reprisals. _Nous verrons._ This letter is only
+addressed to the people of Aheer.
+
+If water be the sustaining and even the generative force of vegetation
+in the desert, it is also the destruction of trees and herbage; for
+along the line of the current of the wady are seen immense numbers of
+dead and overthrown trees, torn from their roots by the force of the
+water in the rainy season. En-Noor paid me a visit this afternoon, and
+took a nap in my tent.
+
+_13th._--We rose early, but did not start till about nine o'clock. This
+was the coldest day we have yet experienced: the heavens were overcast
+with clouds. We came five hours; our course irregular, but always
+south-east; the track through wadys filled with the usual trees of the
+tholukh species. Yesterday were seen numbers of large butterflies, but
+to-day, on account of the cold, few. Flies innumerable follow the
+caravan. The rocks were, as yesterday, many conic-formed, and others
+rounded or appearing in ranges, like huge haycocks: granite, sandstone,
+and trachite. We have in the distance before us, a peculiarly shaped
+rock of considerable height, called _Mari_, in the midst of a range. We
+are encamped in the bed of an immense broad valley, and camels are
+feeding about in considerable numbers. The salt-caravan is very near. We
+are not yet in the regular caravan route, _via_ Asoudee, but expect to
+reach it after to-morrow. En-Noor has with him as a guest the principal
+man of Aghadez, before mentioned. This man was once a slave, but by his
+address has risen thus high, as the slaves frequently do in Turkey: so
+widely do similar manners prevail. Many slaves in Soudan rise to the
+highest consequence.
+
+The _shonshona_ (or practice of scarifying the face or neck) prevails
+everywhere in Bornou, Soudan, and all this part of Africa; the Tuaricks
+and Fellatahs being the only people who abstain from this barbarous
+practice. Each device of scarifying denotes the peculiar nation of the
+blacks. I have now got three sketches of faces thus disfigured, and
+shall get as many as I can.
+
+The Mahommedans of the coast usually teach that this way of marking the
+body is a sin, but nevertheless the black Muslims will not abandon the
+peculiarities of their nation.
+
+_14th._--Started early, but made only two hours and a-quarter, through
+the expansive valleys of yesterday. Here we found the salt-caravan,
+there being in this place abundance of room, herbage, and a large well,
+all necessary for such an assembly of people and beasts. On the road we
+put up a covey of partridges, and a splendid solitary bird, the _hobara_
+of Soudan. Footprints of the hares and of the gazelle were observed _en
+route_.
+
+By this opportunity we have got a few dates from Bilma; but they are
+very poor, some of them little better than dried wood. The salt-caravan
+has nothing attractive. The salt is all tied up in small bales or
+bundles, the outward wrapper being matting or platting of strips of the
+leaves of the doom-palm, called by the people _kabba_. Our caravan
+resembles the march of a wandering tribe, there being camels, sheep,
+oxen, asses, dogs, with all the paraphernalia of tents, cooking
+utensils, &c. Some of the animals are laden, some unladen, playing,
+running, and skipping about. Then come the human animals, men, women,
+and children of every age. Our own caravan is mostly composed of the
+household and slaves of En-Noor, with two or three strangers. But now
+all changes to the salt-caravan, and we shall probably be soon absorbed
+in it.
+
+Yesterday morning I observed the dawn of day, and witnessed a degree of
+redness and red clouds, or, more poetically, rosy-tinted clouds, which I
+never before observed in all the Sahara. Probably now the sky will
+change to a colouring more like England. Sunset and sunrise in the
+Sahara are essentially different from those of England, the colours in
+the desert being exceedingly light and bright; and often in the summer
+time, at daybreak, there is a full, blazing sun in the course of three
+quarters of an hour; so that, that rich colouring of the summer's dawn
+in England is never here observed.
+
+I visited the salt-caravan, or that portion of it which belongs to
+En-Noor. The salt is prepared in Bilma, by the Tibboos, in three
+different manners. There is, first, the _canto_, a kind of pillar or
+pedestal, about 16 inches high, and 3 or 4 broad in its widest part. As
+to weight, 10 of these are a good camel-load, 8 a load for a small
+camel, and 6 for a weak camel. Then there are two cakes, one of refined
+salt and the other coarse. These coarse cakes are about 5 inches in
+diameter, and the refined ones 7 inches, the former being about 3lbs.
+and the latter 5lbs. in weight. When a caravan of Tuaricks arrive at
+Bilma, they find the salt all ready for them, and they pay a barter for
+it in this way,--a zekka of ghaseb is exchanged against twenty of the
+coarse cakes; a zekka for six of the refined cakes, and three zekkas of
+ghaseb for two of the pillars. Ghaseb appears to be the only staple
+thing which the Tibboos receive for their salt; they may also take now
+and then turkadias, or black turbans, and on the other side the Tuaricks
+bring a few dates with them: the fruit, even those of the best quality,
+are not very good or fine. This commerce of barter is managed almost
+solely by the women: the men remain in their houses, whilst the women go
+to the salt-pits or lakes, and transact this important business; but the
+men do not run away, as is commonly reported. At least, so say the
+Tuaricks. The supply of salt is inexhaustible. It is, probably, on
+account of the weight of the salt, and the fatigue of the camels which
+carry it, with the distance, that this commerce is not very profitable
+to the Tuaricks; but this can only be ascertained in the markets of
+Kanou, and other large cities of Soudan. There are only six months to
+the rainy season, so I have just time to go to Sakkatou and return,
+without waiting long at any of the intermediate places between Sakkatou
+and Kuka.
+
+Our encampment is under some rocks, where are seen the dens of lions. At
+the mouth of these caves or holes are bones of animals and the dung of
+the lions.
+
+_15th._--I rose early, but we did not start till two hours after
+sunrise. The caravan was a considerable time in loading. We have only
+with us En-Noor's detachment of the salt-caravan, about 130 camels. We
+may be quicker in our movements to-morrow. The first morning of starting
+is always thus slow. We came to-day five hours: passed the picturesque
+rock Mari, like a camel couchant, and entered after three hours the
+Asoudee route, or the direct caravan route from Ghat to Damerghou,
+through Aheer. Another detachment of the salt-caravan passed or crossed
+us, and took another route to the east. Our course was always
+southwards, now S.E. now S.W., through wadys filled with trees, mostly
+tholukh and its varieties; the rocks were all granite. Aheer appears to
+be a region essentially of granite, although here and there are volcanic
+cones striking up, composed of basalt, or a variety of this stone. The
+weather was very cloudy and cold, only a little warm in the middle of
+the day. We have not come to water or wells for three days, because our
+journeys are very short. To-day I saw, for the first time, the indigo
+plant--_neela_ in Arabic, and _bala_ in Soudanese. I was glad to make
+its acquaintance. It grows amongst the other herbage, and may be easily
+confounded with it as a common herb. It is now in seed, the pods being
+small and very hard. This is one of the products capable of working the
+regeneration of Africa, if Africa is to be civilised by legitimate
+commerce.
+
+En-Noor asked to-day if, on entering Constantinople, we English made
+presents. I told him very positively, "No;" but, on the contrary,
+everything which the English demanded of the Sultan of the Turks he did
+for us; and because the Sultan was weak, England was obliged to protect
+him against the encroachments of the other Christian nations.
+
+I was much surprised to hear to-day that En-Noor begged a black burnouse
+from Barth. The old Sheikh is a Tuarick every inch of him. Nevertheless,
+it is too bad to beg the things which we wear to protect us from the
+cold and the heat. Barth, I believe, has not yet made the Sheikh a
+present, and he is coming Hateetah over my worthy friend. Overweg has
+given the Sheikh a cloth jacket, which he could ill spare. I feel most
+determinedly disposed to give nothing more; but in justice I have to
+add, that his highness sends regularly the milk in the morning, that he
+gave me a piece of gour-nut on the road, and that he sent me a few dates
+at my request! These are great things for Tuaricks; so, "patience."
+
+_16th._--I rose at daylight; the cold was moderate, morning foggy as
+yesterday. People say we shall be only nine days from this going to
+Damerghou, but I will give them twelve. All the old men in this country
+apply to the Taleb for medicine to restore their powers. They very
+unwillingly relinquish the exercise of the functions which give them
+most delight; but nature is stronger than all things, and they must
+submit to its inevitable course. In a country like Africa, where woman
+is only thought of for one purpose, it chagrins these old fellows to see
+all their nice plump slave-girls about them, and to find themselves past
+and gone, so far as this state of existence is concerned. En-Noor and
+Hateetah both made this kind of application to the Taleb. When I was
+alone in my former journey in the desert, I had also the same kind of
+experience.
+
+We came two hours to-day to the well of Anfesas, before the mountain of
+Baghzem. Our course was through valleys and rocks, as yesterday, and,
+indeed, always in this country; for there is very little variation in
+the landscape. Baghzem, instead of being the high mountain pictured to
+me by the Ghadamsee merchants, is, at this view of it, only a low range.
+Two little things observed to-day were, first, a "traveller's sharpening
+stone," on which every person passing by sharpened his dagger or his
+sword: next, were heaps of sand scraped together, and sticks or stalks
+of herbage stuck on the top, as frail marks of the route, corresponding
+to the heaps of stone which mark in line the routes of the Sahara. There
+was also a mosque formed of boughs of trees; that is, a low wall of the
+groundplan of a mosque made of boughs of trees, like the walls of stone
+in other places. The trees were as before, always those full of thorns,
+like the tholukh; many of the species bearing what is called the date of
+this country. No animals of game were seen, except a solitary hare; but
+there were marks of the foot of the mohur, or large gazelle.
+
+The lading of the camels in the morning takes always an hour and a-half:
+we have few people, compared with the number of beasts of burden.
+
+However, under the leadership of En-Noor, who has now decked himself in
+a fine yellow burnouse, a sort of ensign of authority, the caravan
+marches in great order and tranquillity.
+
+The inhabitants of Damerghou are said to be a mixture of Kohlans and
+Tuaricks; the latter, however, receding into the interior. But if the
+Tuaricks have dispossessed the Kohlans, they have almost become Kohlans
+themselves, forgetting their own language and their own customs and
+manners. This would naturally result from their habit of taking female
+slaves from Soudan. Women, of course, always teach their children their
+own language. In this way the population becomes in a few years
+amalgamated, the blacks with Tuaricks.
+
+_17th._--We stopped here all day, occupied with Bornouese. The place is
+pleasant enough, there being a good well of water. A little temporary
+village stands near, composed of the women and children belonging to the
+salt-caravan.
+
+_18th._--We halted again another day. After this rest of three days for
+the camels, we are to go on quicker. Overweg paid a visit to the
+temporary village, principally to see the women, taking with him the
+Malem Ibrahim. He was pleasantly received, and notes the fact as the
+first specimen of Soudan hospitality. I also made an excursion of an
+hour to a neighbouring eminence, where I had a view from the top of a
+quartz rock of the surrounding landscape of stony hills and valleys. On
+the east and west were ranges and groups of mountains; on the north-east
+and towards Bilma, and on the south-west round the mountain of Baghzem,
+the country appeared open. North and south were rocks. In the direction
+of our route (south-east) the rocks seem scattered and at wide
+distances, so I expect we shall soon bid farewell to the mountains of
+Aheer. The celebrated mount of Baghzem is a mighty mass of rock, not
+high, but apparently of immense breadth. The town of Baghzem is on the
+western side, and out of our route.
+
+I had a little clandestine transaction with Madame En-Noor to-day. She
+sent me cheese and milk, and I sent her a ring. The slaves brought the
+cheese stealthily: so, I suppose, the Sultan was not to know of it. But
+they say that all the goats belong to the women, and, consequently, the
+milk and cheese; but the camels to the men; some women, however, have
+camels. There is a sort of division of male and female property in this
+country.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+We continue our Journey--Huntsmen--Gum on the Tholukhs--The
+Salt-Caravan--A Bunch of Gum--Games among the
+Slaves--Baghzem--Trees--Palm of Pharaoh--Deserted Villages--Birds'
+Nests--Wife of En-Noor--Unan--Lizards--Bad News--Christmas
+day in Africa--Christmas-boxes--Begging Tuaricks
+again--Bargot--Musicians--Speculations--Tribes at War--Parasitical
+Plant--Importance of Salt--Animals--Agalgo--Force of the Caravan--Beat
+of Drum--Approach the Hamadah--Giraffes--Poisoned Arrows--Ear of
+Ghaseb--Soudan and Bornou Roads.
+
+
+_Dec. 19th._--We started early, and journeyed on eight hours and
+a-half--the best day we have had since leaving Tintalous. Our course
+still towards that immense block of mountain, the celebrated Baghzem. We
+are now encamped along its side. We crossed a large wady with
+ancient-looking trees, having antiquity, in fact, stamped on their
+trunks, all of the tholukh species. The sand of this desert is covered
+with the footsteps or marks of the gazelle and hare; but we saw only one
+gazelle and one hare. The gazelle was followed by a stupid mongrel-bred
+dog; it jumped high in the air, and was soon out of sight. The Kailouees
+are no huntsmen. I question whether they have ever caught a gazelle or
+any full-grown animal in their lives; they are a stupid set, and their
+dogs worse still in field-sport, though always living in the desert.
+There are huntsmen amongst the Haghars. The Kailouees prefer running
+down men, or rather women. All they think of is riding or straying from
+place to place after the women--this is their sport.
+
+This may be called a country of dry wadys. The name is appropriate all
+the year round, except on the few days when the floods are seen pouring
+down these seeming beds of rivers. Hereabouts are the largest tholukh
+and other trees found in Aheer. Those that grow on high ground are
+small, but from their trunks are picked off, by the slaves, pieces of
+gum. To-day, however, I could not succeed in getting a piece. What was
+found was carried to En-Noor. I shall soon get a taste of it. We
+continue with our same number of camels; no other detachments of the
+large salt-caravan have yet joined us. En-Noor is still very active,
+riding before and behind, seeing that all is right. He is followed by
+his shadow. He wears his yellow burnouse. I have heard of no town on
+this side of Baghzem.
+
+An immense quantity of stone is scattered over the route hereabouts.
+Overweg believes it to be basalt, or a species of volcanic stone of
+similar character.
+
+I am preparing myself for my Soudan journeys, and, _en route_, take as
+much rest as possible. Cold winds prevail night and morning, but the sun
+burns a few hours in the day. Certainly now is the best season for
+travelling in this country. What it is in Soudan it is impossible to
+tell.
+
+_20th._--We rested to-day. There is a well a short distance off, called
+Tilya. This morning early filed by a large division of the salt-caravan,
+about three hundred camels. We passed them yesterday. They had also a
+little merchandise besides salt. Some of the people inquired of me if I
+had found my camels. I told them two were still missing. They were all
+strangers, but were, nevertheless, civil. I made a short excursion in
+search of gum amongst the tholukh-trees. I was fortunate enough to find
+one piece, or, rather, a small bunch of pellucid drops, of a bright
+amber-colour. The bunch was scarcely exuding from the tree on which it
+was found, and was ready to drop when touched, hanging by the slenderest
+connexion. It was even somewhat disposed to become liquid. This gum is
+found only on the small young trees. The taste was very pleasant. It is
+astonishing how little gum has been picked off these trees by our
+people, although we have passed tens of thousands of them _en route_.
+
+The slaves of the caravan were having a game amongst themselves this
+morning. They brought into my tent a man bound as dead, and I was
+obliged to pay a handkerchief to relieve myself of the bad omen. Such a
+thing is considered a horrible thing if you do not buy away the ill
+effects of it. This is certainly an easy way of collecting money and
+goods. It was, however, amusing to see the fellow, how still he lay;
+truly it was as still as death. The ceremony itself arose out of the
+culprit, or man bound, having lost our camels, a circumstance which has
+detained us here to-day. The herdsman was thus punished for his neglect;
+and so all these African people have an amusing way of turning their
+misfortunes into fun, as well as of making a profit out of them. I have
+already observed before, that every misfortune we have suffered has been
+a benefit to the Kailouees. This has made them so careless about what
+might happen to us.
+
+_21st._--Our course was generally nearly south, but often a little
+winding. Baghzem was always on our right, until we left it behind us, on
+the north-west. This mountain has, probably, been so much celebrated in
+all past times, because it is the most conspicuous object on the return
+route from the south to the north. Overweg conjectures that it is
+granite. He had no servant at hand yesterday to visit it with him, and
+he did not like to go alone, because it swarms with lions.
+
+We passed to-day mostly through undulating country, a sort of ground
+which, in the Sahara, lies generally between the plateaux and the high
+rocky ranges. From one of the lesser heights we had a magnificent view
+of Baghzem. We passed also through and along several fine wadys, lined
+with ancient trees. Perhaps, in some places, full half of the trees were
+decayed, and many only naked stumps. The trees were so thick in certain
+places as to deserve the name of forests--primeval forests--but, I
+imagine, not to be compared with those of America.
+
+Amongst the trees to-day appeared most conspicuously the doom-palm. This
+is the first day we have seen it in such numbers. This "palm of
+Pharaoh," as the Moors call it, according to their habit of coupling all
+strange things with those ancient monarchs, is found in groups as well
+as isolated trees. When isolate, and also when in groups, it very
+frequently assumes a double-shaped trunk, or two large arms spread out
+or divided from a low stump.[11] Of the leaves, which are called
+_gabba_, the people make all their rope.
+
+ [11] I believe the trunk of the doom is always thus divided and
+      subdivided.--ED.
+
+These trees are now laden with fruit, not ripe. The abundance of them
+gives to the place of our encampment a truly tropical aspect. We
+journeyed on to-day eight hours and a-half--a good, fair day. The
+weather was warm, even a little sultry. As to inhabitants, we passed
+many isolated huts, but saw no villages in groups. We also passed the
+ruins of many villages, whose houses were better built than any I have
+yet seen in this part of Aheer. This country has seen its best days; for
+the huts which now take the place of these houses, high and well-built
+of stone and mud, are, indeed, miserable. Probably these deserted places
+are some of the towns whose people were carried off to Bornou in the
+recent razzias. At the bottom of most of the wadys to-day, water was
+found at a foot depth, though not a copious supply. People were at the
+wells in numbers, watering their cattle.
+
+En-Noor paid me another attention to-day, when on camel-back, in
+presenting to me a piece of gour-nut. This is considered a very great
+compliment. As to the fruit itself, I have not yet acquired the taste;
+it is only agreeable if you are thirsty, and after chewing it drink
+water.
+
+_22d._--We remain here to-day. It is not so cold as it has been.
+
+I am sorry Madame En-Noor has left off the milk, though I never cease to
+send coffee twice a-day. I must now, however, send but once, as my sugar
+is getting low.
+
+I observed the beautiful bird's nest which I mentioned the other day. It
+is a perfect piece of architecture, far superior to the huts made in
+this country. The only apparent deficiency is, that it seems to hang on
+nothing, or is suspended sometimes on a slender straw, at other times on
+a thin twig. The nest is built of straw inside and outside, but the
+inside is of a finer straw. I have not seen the bird who is the
+architect of this wonderful piece of mechanism. I observed two species
+of parasitical plants, one of which has a slender trunk, and has its
+root in the earth; and the other, which is entirely dependent on the
+tree over which it spreads for all its support and nourishment. Its
+roots are in the very boughs of the tree which bears it. Some of our
+blacks, who were carried over the desert when young, and had not seen or
+observed this phenomenon before, burst out laughing. These comicalities
+of vegetation amused them exceedingly. What excites the serious
+attention of cultivated minds often produces only laughter in vulgar and
+untutored people. Parasitical plants would be a complete study for the
+botanist here. The doom-tree has a smaller and rounder-shaped head than
+the common date-palm; the leaves are spread out very like a fan, but I
+know not whether the doom is called the fan-shaped palm.
+
+We are to stay at this place some time--there appears to be no hurry. We
+shall probably be here three days more. The Sultan of Asoudee is
+visiting amongst us, and has concerted with En-Noor that all the
+caravans shall go together, in order that no one portion of it shall
+arrive before the other in Damerghou, and so get the ghaseb cheaper; as,
+of course, the early arrivals generally get the better bargains. At
+first I could not understand the reason of our all going together; now
+the thing is clear enough.
+
+En-Noor called at my tent in the evening, and was very civil. I got a
+little milk afterwards for the tea sent him. The royal family appear now
+to be short of milk. I find that his royal highness has in reality only
+one wife, who is a slave. In an African point of view, however, even
+this is too much. His highness confessed to Overweg that God gave man
+his limited time in this as in all things. Had the beating I have
+recorded any relation to this bitter reflection?
+
+When the sun is down, the landscape around begins to look like Old
+England, the species of trees not being visible. The doom reminds me of
+the shorn elms along the hedges.
+
+_23d._--The Sultan of Asoudee sent this morning for powder, and was
+thankful for a small quantity. We remained here this day. All the
+valleys and country around are called _Unan_. This is also the name of a
+well near us, but water is usually obtained by scooping out the sand in
+the bed of the valleys, and there are few regular wells; those which are
+dug are destroyed as soon as the rain returns. Such alone remain entire
+as are out of the reach, or beyond the range of the periodic floods.
+
+_24th._--We were not to come on to-day; but En-Noor changed his mind,
+and we journeyed on five hours, up the valley of Unan. The eternal
+sameness of the tholukh and doom--for dooms are now in great
+numbers--would be wearisome, had we not had so much desert before; but
+we are still delighted with the continual occurrence of trees, be they
+of what species they may. There is, besides, a great abundance of wild
+water-melons, which the people sometimes eat. They are very small, but
+hard and sound. The lizard, which almost through the whole desert was
+found darting about and around the camels' feet, has now disappeared. It
+would be a curious inquiry for a naturalist to endeavour to account for
+its disappearance, for the nature of the soil has not so much changed.
+The only difference--but perhaps this is great for the lizard--is that
+hereabouts occur periodic rains, which deluge the land for a few days in
+the year; and during these few days, probably, all the land lizards
+found in low places would be destroyed.
+
+This is Christmas-eve; a sorry one for us all! We receive no news but
+bad news. For to-day a man came up to us, who said he left Tripoli three
+months ago, and that the cholera had been very severe in Tripoli, making
+many victims; but he brought no particular news for us. He came by the
+way of Ghadamez and Ghat, and yet had heard nothing of our misfortunes
+on the frontier. I suppose the people of Ghat had already ceased to talk
+about us and our affairs; for here in the desert, as elsewhere, things
+are soon forgotten. We saw little of the rest of the caravan _en route_,
+but if we ever see the whole of the camels going with us, and the
+division of Aghadez, I am quite sure they will never reach the
+exaggerated number of 10,000! All numbers are dreadfully exaggerated in
+Africa.
+
+_25th._--Christmas-day! My second Christmas day in Africa during this
+journey. We have nothing to make a merry day of; but we must try and
+cheer ourselves up by the thought that we are still spared, after
+passing through so many dangers, and amidst a people naturally hostile
+to us, and only softened by fear of the Turks, and by possession of the
+goods of the Government, which they have taken one way or other. Yet
+some of the people appear of a more kindly nature, and Overweg has
+experienced a little hospitality in the huts retired from the road, or
+sequestered in the surrounding valleys.
+
+Gracious God! make us all thankful for health and strength: may we ever
+praise thy protecting care of us and our mission. For the sake of our
+Saviour, born on this day, pardon all our sins; give us grace to lead a
+new life, and a most willing mind to receive Jesus as the Lord our
+righteousness! O God, have mercy upon all our friends and relations, and
+give them the will to receive the Saviour, born on this day, as their
+only chance of salvation! O God, have mercy upon Africa, and on all men!
+
+Some musicians came this morning to salute us with a little of their
+rough music, a drum and a clarionet. I gave them three rings and a
+little sugar. I have very little to bestow, and were I to be more
+generous, or to make an effort to give them anything like a Christmas
+gift, I should then have all the people upon me, begging everything I
+had left. Yesterday I spoke a few words to Hamma, son-in-law of En-Noor,
+and he immediately asked me for a turban. I had not spoken to him for
+several weeks, or only saluted him with a few words, in order to avoid
+his begging. This man has already had from me presents to the amount of
+fifty dollars! Thus I am cut off from all conversation with these
+people, and have no practice in speaking the languages of the interior.
+I must try to get on better than this. Overweg, as doctor, is better
+off. The sick, and the people who bring the sick, must talk to him, and
+must receive a favour from him. And he frequently gets a few cheeses in
+return. The women make extraordinary propositions. The other day they
+offered him a slave or a bullock for a medicine to produce a child.
+
+The place of our encampment is called Bargot, which I believe is also
+the name of a well, near or about an hour and a-half distant. I have
+also heard the name of Bergu. Yesterday we passed some ruins of houses,
+built of stone and mud. I am glad that Barth borrowed my Bible, and is
+reading to-day. Overweg also was the first to propose prayers on Sundays
+when we are staying long together in one place.
+
+We are now near the Hamadah, which is a journey of full four days
+without water. We arrive at the water on the morning only of the fifth
+day. I gave a Christmas-box to all the servants of the expedition, seven
+persons, each a cotton handkerchief and a ring. This is all I could
+spare. Yusuf had a silk handkerchief and no ring. The kind of ring
+esteemed here is one having a good imitation of a stone, and the metal
+is as good as gold for these people. With the exception of the Gatronee
+and my mahadee, the rest ill deserved their Christmas-box, but it is
+necessary to forget and to forgive. However, I am now more strict with
+them, as we are leaving the Tuaricks, amongst whom some of our servants
+became almost Tuaricks themselves in manners.
+
+The Sultan of Asoudee is still with us, and keeps up a sort of state
+about him, although he is a poor weak fellow indeed, compared to
+En-Noor. He has not paid us a visit, and we have not seen him. En-Noor,
+probably, does not wish to bother us with such a visit. The musicians
+who saluted us this morning came from him, but they did not know it was
+a feast-day of Christians, and only came to pick up what they could get.
+I sent Madame En-Noor a piece of white loaf-sugar, and told her it was a
+Christmas-box. She received it with many thanks; so I have chronicled
+all our doings this day. I read the two first chapters of St. Luke in
+Arabic. We had no provisions, or anything with which we could produce
+the resemblance of a plum-pudding. As to roast beef, we have some bits
+of preserved beef, which we eat with our baseen and hamsa.
+
+Amidst so many uncertainties in Central Africa we may not see another
+Christmas-day. O God! whenever the time of our departure is come, may we
+be found relying for salvation on that Saviour, thine only-begotten Son,
+born on this day.
+
+Overweg and I conversed late at night on the mechanism of the heavens,
+and the antiquity of the world, according to the received theories of
+astronomers and geologists; the dark and black vault above, sprinkled
+over with brilliant points, being the object which first set our
+thoughts in motion. The stars are time itself, and also illustrations of
+the passage of light through the universe. The earth was once a hotter
+orb, passing successively from a vaporous to a fluid, and then a solid
+state. The northern climes were once torrid zones, from the evidence of
+the fossil remains and from coals, which are masses of tropical trees.
+Such were the speculations in which we indulged.[12]
+
+ [12] I have not thought it advisable to abridge or alter this
+      _naive_ account of a Christmas-day on the southern borders
+      of the Sahara. Mr. Richardson seems already to feel certain
+      presentiments of the fate that awaited him. In other places
+      I have omitted devotional passages; but in this it seemed
+      to me that it would be unjust to the memory of this amiable
+      traveller to do so.--ED.
+
+_26th._--We stay here to-day. There is some trouble amongst those
+restless tribes, the Kaltadak and Kalfadai; and Yusuf was sent for this
+morning by En-Noor to write some letters for him to these marauding
+tribes. They are fighting amongst themselves. The route from the North
+will never be safe for Europeans until these tribes are properly
+subjugated; and when will that time come? It is now reported that we all
+go to Zinder. I shall be glad of this opportunity to get a few dollars,
+and then make the best of my way to Sakkatou. But our delay here renders
+this trip always less certain, and seems to point out that I shall go
+first to Bornou.
+
+The most frequent parasitical plant, which is found upon nearly all the
+tholukhs, is called _koushi_ in Haussa, and _barango_ in Bornou. It is a
+fine plant, and its flower is not unlike the woodbine or honeysuckle,
+but devoid of all fragrance. The leaves are succulent, full of moisture,
+in shape a long oval, the longest not more than an inch and a quarter.
+This parasite also fastens itself on other trees, and often kills the
+branches from which it draws its strength--a real sap-sucker. The
+karembo frequently dies in its embraces.
+
+Hamma, the son-in-law of En-Noor, is not to go with us, on account of
+the quarrels with the Kalfadai and the Kaltadak. He is exceedingly
+disappointed, for it deprives him of making anything for himself in
+Haussa; and En-Noor keeps him very poor indeed, as his highness does
+everybody about him.
+
+The salt-caravan is the affair of life and death for Aheer; and the
+reason is now clear to me why it is that En-Noor goes every year with
+it, and directs and superintends its movements. This is the greatest
+service he can render to his country, and the Kailouees generally.
+Without this salt the population of Aheer would soon all perish, or
+emigrate to Soudan. The other commerce of the country could not suffice
+for the support of the inhabitants.
+
+_27th._--We had a visit from the people of the country before starting;
+they appear to be a fine race of men, whiter than most of the Kailouees,
+and nearly all tall. In these nomade districts the weakly children
+generally die off, leaving only the robust. We journeyed on southwards
+five hours, through wadys formed by the force of the waters, gradually
+approaching the great Hamadah. The doom now disappeared, and most of the
+trees dependent on much water; for here the wadys are all shallow.
+Footmarks of the ostrich, gazelle, hare, habara, and some other
+interesting animals, cover this portion of the desert. The gazelles have
+more room, and the ostriches also. The former, besides, are out of the
+way of the lion; for this beast seldom pursues its prey across the
+desert plains.
+
+People say we shall see many animals in the Hamadah, because the lion
+does not come there. A large gazelle was taken this evening by some of
+the caravan.
+
+A few locusts and many fine butterflies were busy about. We are encamped
+at a place called Agalgo, or Agallegu. There is a well at the distance
+of an hour; so that the number of days during which no water is found is
+reduced to three: but this water is a sort of collection from the rain
+remaining beyond its time, and is not always found.
+
+We are now on the edge of the plateau. En-Noor said to-day, "There are
+five thousand camels with us;" but I question whether there be more than
+two thousand. It is of great importance to ascertain this, for thus only
+the force of the country may be estimated. We are now said to be eight
+days from Damerghou.
+
+The Sultan of Asoudee has detained many of En-Noor's young people, to
+protect the country in case there be any troubles with the Kalfadai.
+
+Several pieces of scoria, or lava, were found on the road, showing a
+district here once to have had active volcanoes. The granite begins to
+disappear, to be replaced by sandstone. This sandstone, generally,
+according to Overweg, forms plateaux; whereas granite is found in rocks
+and ridges in the midst of valleys.
+
+_28th._--We started early. The camels move on at the beginning of their
+day's work to the beating of the _kanga_, or drum. We have two or three
+drums, but the drummers have little skill, and the beating is always the
+same monotonous sound. Our course varied from S.E. to S.W., but lay
+always southward, through shallow valleys, or low, indented, or
+scooped-out plains; the whole country being what the people call
+_hamadah_, or plateau. All the large trees have disappeared with the
+doom-palm. Nevertheless there are everywhere the marks of water. Yet the
+rain cannot fall here so much as in the mountainous regions which we
+have left behind, for it is high ground only which brings down the rain
+in Africa; except, indeed, near the equator. As yesterday, the sand and
+soft earth are covered with the footmarks of gazelles, ostriches, the
+habara, and even the giraffe. The people, in fact, say we shall see the
+giraffe before we arrive at Damerghou. But of these animals, who have
+left thus the impression of their feet on the sand, we saw not one.
+Indeed it is quite a matter of luck to fall in with animals in the
+desert. I have seen but very few. My colleagues have both encountered
+lions and monkeys, neither of which have I seen.
+
+We have come to-day seven hours and a-half, a very good march for
+En-Noor. The nights are cold enough; there is also a fresh breeze,
+generally from north-east, every day: nevertheless, the sun burns hot.
+The sky has always now a few clouds, and the atmosphere is a little
+thick and misty. We have with us various queer characters; amongst the
+rest, a fellow who boasts of his having killed many people with poisoned
+arrows. When I come near him I always attack him, not, indeed, with his
+favourite weapon, but with irony. I tell him, "Ah! poisoned arrows kill
+many people.--What matters it?--There is no God" (looking up, and saying
+_Babo Allah!_) This has had its effect once or twice, and he has
+confessed it is not so very fine to kill people with poisoned arrows.
+
+Evening came on, but I heard nothing of water. We are encamped near a
+small hill. I looked to-day again attentively at our strings of camels.
+Instead of five thousand, I do not believe there are more than five
+hundred. We have few people with us in comparison with the number of
+camels, and these are many of them slaves of the masters who are
+remaining behind in Aheer. The disturbed state of the country has
+prevented many persons of consequence from joining us. To-day, my
+mahadee brought me an ear of ghaseb, of immense length--about three
+times the length of the ghaseb grown in Ghadamez and other oases of the
+Sahara; nine times the length of an ear of wheat. This was found growing
+on the road, and intimates that we are approaching Soudan very fast. I
+also picked up to-day camomile flowers and the senna-plant.
+
+Explanation of Soudan and Bornou common words for articles of dress,
+food, instruments for manufacturing:--
+
+_Jebus_, leathern bag.
+
+_Foofoo_, paste of Indian corn.
+
+_Bouza_, a species of beer. In Waura, near the western coast, it is made
+of guinea-corn, honey, Chili pepper, a root of coarse grass; in Kanou
+and Wadai it is made of only ghaseb and honey, and is therefore more
+pure and agreeable. It is called by some, acid beer.[13]
+
+_Kolla_, the gour-nut, called "African," or "Soudan."
+
+_Shea_, the butter-tree.
+
+_Manioc_, root. The main article of food in Congo, used as flour.
+
+ [13] In Egypt it is made of rice.--ED.
+
+I trust, under the auspices of a good Providence, to arrive strong in
+Soudan. There our greatest enemy is fever! I walked a little to-day, and
+found myself better for the exercise; but, as a rule, I avoid exposing
+myself to fatigue.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+Enter the Hamadah--Home of the Giraffe--Water of
+Chidugulah--Turtles--Cool Wind--Jerboahs--Centre of the
+Sahara--New-year's Eve--Cold Weather--Birds of Prey--Soudan
+Date--Burs--Animals on the Plateau--Young Ostrich--The
+Tholukh-tree--Severe Cold--Eleven Ostriches--Termination of the
+Desert--Inasamet--The Tagama--Purchases--People begin to
+improve--Fruit of the Lote-tree--Village roofed with Skins--Vast
+Plain--Horses--Approach Damerghou--Village of Gumrek--Rough
+Customers--Wars of the Kilgris and Kailouees--A small
+Lake--Guinea-hens--Vultures--Party of Huntsmen.
+
+
+_Dec. 29th._--About five hours after we started, the route opened into a
+_bona fide_ hamadah. All around us stretched a limitless plain. Our
+course lay always south, and we journeyed ten hours, with sand in the
+evening.
+
+Yesterday I had observed a few footmarks of the giraffe, but to-day they
+were everywhere visible. They were double, as this animal does not move
+its feet one after another, like the camel or the horse, but two of its
+feet together, or simultaneously. We saw the footprints of young as well
+as old ones. This plateau is the real home of the giraffe. No place
+could be better adapted for such an unwieldy creature. There is
+abundance of small tholukh, on which it feeds; all the country is open
+around to it, and it is out of the reach of ferocious animals. Towards
+the evening the marks of the giraffe disappeared, and were succeeded by
+the footprints of what is here called the wild ox (but which Overweg
+believes to be a large species of gazelle), so that one animal appears
+to have made room for the other. The day was cool and cloudy.
+
+The plain is intersected with shallow beds and streams, and in some
+places evident marks of an abundance of water in the rainy season.
+
+_30th._--We started early for the well, but did not reach it till late
+in the evening, after a march of nine hours. The well is called
+Chidugulah, and is situated on the side of a valley of some depth. In
+the bed of this valley Overweg found some infusoria, clay or stone.
+
+Many people started in the night to get water, and give their animals a
+drink. There is but a small supply, and what there is has a muddy,
+chocolate colour. The last water we took up from the valleys of Asben
+had a milky hue, so that when the coffee was made of it, it looked like
+_cafe au lait_.
+
+Bandits and hostile tribes frequent this well of Chidugulah, and rest
+hereabouts to pillage caravans. Our people spoke of the Oulimad, and
+Overweg dreamed he was fighting with them. I dreamed the same night of
+large turtles, for it had been said they are found in this plateau, and
+their marks had been traced to-day. I learn now that large turtles, two
+feet and a-half long, and one foot and a-half broad, are found here. The
+back shell of one was used for a watering trough by the people we met
+_en route_. We had sand all day, rising occasionally in considerable
+mounds. I observed the prevailing winds in the formation of these
+mounds; for there is always an inclined plane towards the quarter whence
+the wind blows; whilst to where it blows the mounds are scarped. The
+winds prevailing now are E.N.E.; and the wind has nearly always come
+from this direction since our arrival in Aheer. In another season,
+however, there may be a total change. In full summer it may be south,
+for what we know. In fact, Amankee says, in summer the wind always comes
+from the south. At this season the sand is covered with nice herbage in
+some places, but in the hot weather it must be all dried up. This is, in
+truth, the spring time in this country; the birds are all laying. There
+are also young birds fledged. In Haussa there is no word for "fledged."
+
+This route must really present, in some parts, for many hours together,
+an ocean of sand; as, I think, it is described in the Itinerary procured
+by Davis. To-day the footprints of the giraffe have entirely
+disappeared.
+
+In summer it must be very difficult for large caravans to obtain water
+from this well, for our people were full half a day filling four or five
+skins. What a blessing, nevertheless, is the existence of the Chidugula,
+for there is no water for three days farther. The boys killed this
+morning a jerboah, or what the Germans call a jumping mouse. I saw one
+yesterday, jumping before my camel's feet. There are a great number
+here. This jerboah is of a different colour from those I have seen in
+Tunis; being white all over the lower part of the body and neck,
+straw-coloured on the top of the head and along the back; whilst those
+in Tunis are nearly of the same colour as ordinary mice. This species is
+also small, three inches and a-half long, and the tail is double the
+length of the body. The hind legs are nearly as long as the body, and
+the fore legs not half an inch. Near the tip of the tail there is an
+inch of black. Many young jerboahs were caught, all of the same
+description. The Haussa people call it a mouse, but have besides a
+special name.
+
+We are now about the middle of the Sahara, including the radii of the
+western and northern coasts, and we here find an immense plateau,
+stretching many days north and south, east and west. So far Le Brun's
+conjecture is right, that the central parts of Africa are plateaux, or
+one vast plateau. But more of this hereafter. This plateau extends to
+the Bornou route, and how much further east is yet to be ascertained. In
+the west we yet also want information. North and south it extends along
+the territory of Aheer some eight days, or about one hundred and sixty
+miles. Overweg reckons the height of the plateau, above the level of the
+sea, at some fifteen hundred feet.
+
+_31st._--The last day of the year! One year gone in Africa this tour!
+How many more are to pass? Alas! who can tell?--We came to-day nine
+hours, always south, over a perfect desert-plain, mostly sandy. A cold
+north-east wind was blowing all the day. The people dread it as death
+itself; as well they may, for they are nearly naked. Their Soudan cotton
+clothes afford them little or no protection against such a bleak
+north-easter. Europeans are astonished to see these people shivering
+with cold in this bleak weather, and forget that they themselves are
+well clothed. This remark is very applicable to the northern coast,
+where hundreds of the poor are seen shivering, with only a thin blanket
+thrown around them in the coldest day of winter. When they see a
+European well covered with tight cloth clothes, and flannel underneath,
+they may well call out _sega_, "cold," as they often do; and we are
+ready to laugh, and forget they are naked.
+
+In this part of the desert birds of prey abound. We passed to-day some
+twenty large vultures, feeding on a dead camel. When the caravan filed
+by they all took wing, and perched themselves in a row on a rising mound
+of sand, and there waited until we had passed before them, like so many
+soldiers. These were black vultures, and of enormous breadth of wing.
+Many wild oxen, or what are so called, were seen, and everywhere the
+footprints of ostriches and gazelles. His highness En-Noor made us a
+present of two ostrich eggs, and we supped on this out-of-the-way
+delicacy the last day of the year. The date of the black country
+(Soudan) is deserving of notice. It is called in Bornou, _bitu_; and in
+Haussa, _aduwa_ and _tinku_, both tree and fruit. Its kernel, or stone,
+is very large, and the little pulpy matter upon it has the taste of a
+bitter sweet. It is about the size of an almond, and covered with a
+green husk, a little thick. This fruit is now ripening fast in Aheer.
+The tree is covered with thorns, very large, and projecting in every
+direction. The leaves are small, almost without veins, and with a thick
+stalk.
+
+To-day we had the karengia, or bur, with a vengeance. En-Noor had
+already advertised us of its appearance hereabouts two days ago. It is
+certainly the most troublesome thing that can well be conceived for all
+travellers, and more so for Europeans. This bur is from a species of
+herbage bearing grain, very small, and which the people make bazeen of,
+like ghaseb and other grain. All feet of men, women, and animals, were
+to-day covered with this teasing bur.
+
+The animals seen on this plateau, it will be seen, are in reality mostly
+of the harmless kind. The giraffe, the wild ox (considered a species of
+immense gazelle, or stag), the gazelle, a large and small species, the
+ostrich, the guinea-fowl, the hobara (in Haussa, _tuja_), various kinds
+of vultures, the crow, many small birds, the lizard (in small numbers),
+the jerboah, the locust, butterflies, and other insects, the thob, the
+large turtle, &c. Overweg says the footmarks of the hyaena were also
+seen.
+
+En-Noor's people caught a young ostrich, only a few hours hatched. It is
+now kept as a pet. Several eggs have been also picked up. The ostrich
+has been seen feeding on the gum of the tholukh-tree.
+
+As to trees, we have still the eternal tholukh, or mimosa. What an
+omnipresent tree is this in Africa! The mimosa is found at the Cape,
+with the ethel; it is found in all the northern Sahara, and the ethel
+with it, wherever there is some water, as in the wadys of Fezzan. In all
+the western Sahara it abounds, producing the finest gums. Consider also
+the gum-trade at Mogador and Senegal! In the plain of Timbuctoo, the
+mimosa is found in scattered forests. Our people pretend, however, that
+the tholukh does not occur in Soudan, its place being filled up by
+various thorny trees, much resembling the mimosa. We have around us some
+other stunted shrubs. All trees are dwarfish in these plateaux.
+
+Various distinguished characters are amongst the servants and slaves of
+En-Noor. One fellow is called the "King of the Donkeys," another wench
+is styled the "Queen of the Goats;" Zumzug is properly named _Proban
+berau_, "a great thief," from his thievish propensities. Then there is
+the "Lad of the Arrows," the fellow who is always boasting of how many
+people he has killed with arrows, &c. &c.; but Zumzug requires especial
+notice from me, on account of his having run off to Aghadez with a
+caftan of mine; and also from the curious circumstance that En-Noor
+keeps such a thief amongst his slaves, so confounding the honest with
+the thievish servants.
+
+_January 1, 1851._--A strong, bleak, north-east wind ushers in the New
+Year. It began yesterday, and is likely to continue for some time. Most
+comfortless and disagreeable weather is this for the caravan. The people
+do not like to move, and show a decided tendency to hibernation. Some
+camels are also lost--escaped from the numbed fingers of their drivers.
+I, too, feel it cold; and yet there is so much of home in this
+weather--this keen, bracing air--that I cannot complain.
+
+Our people caught the camels at length, and we proceeded still
+southwards. After three hours' travelling we appeared to have passed the
+most barren portion of the plateau, and came upon a new species of tree,
+called in Haussa, _tadana_. We have this day had a splendid sight of
+ostriches--eleven feeding in a troop near us, quietly like so many
+sheep--eccentric birds of their species, showing no tendency to scud
+away. Perhaps I shall never see so many again together. They were all
+black, with maybe a white feather or two underneath the sombre plumage.
+
+The small tholukh-trees are full of birds' nests. In the Northern Sahara
+a bird's nest was not to be seen, but here the trees are all covered
+with them. Amongst the various smaller ones, we came upon a huge
+vulture's nest on a very small tholukh, which seemed to bend and look
+unhappy beneath the weight of this den of rapacity and violence. There
+are hereabouts no rocks for the eagles to build upon. We halted amidst
+abundance of herbage and small trees, which afforded a little shelter
+from the wind.
+
+It is, perhaps, as well that we begin the year with this most bleak and
+unlovely day. We may have a better one to terminate 1851. I was obliged
+to increase my travelling clothes, and put on an extra holi on account
+of the cold wind; and yet the temperature was not very low, it being
+only 46 deg. at sunrise. The wind evidently comes over an immense extent of
+plain towards the east, perhaps some forty or fifty days' journey. We
+made six hours and a-half.
+
+_2d._--We started early, and moved at first to the beat of the drum.
+Already yesterday we had seen symptoms that the desert was drawing to a
+close. To-day we fairly got out of it, and entered upon a wilderness of
+small trees. The vegetation has not, however, yet improved in proportion
+to our nearness to Soudan; for this dwarf forest of tholukh and various
+other trees cannot be compared to the splendid desert vegetation in the
+Aheer valleys; these are pigmy mimosas in comparison with those of
+Aheer. The surface of the ground is now undulating sand and red earth,
+and every trace of stone has almost disappeared; the soil is also
+covered with karengia and other herbs, all dry and sapless. We seem to
+be traversing a limitless stubble-field, covered over or sprinkled with
+small trees. Few animals enliven the scene; a crow here and there struts
+or flies. All the small birds seem to have sought covert from the cold.
+The same north-east wind as yesterday blows with remorseless strength.
+
+I observed great numbers of ant-hills, and very large ones, too. Some of
+the paths from these hills are straighter than the roads made by man
+over the Sahara. So, also, the birds in Aheer, and on this route, build
+better houses for themselves than men do. We halted amidst karengia, and
+had great difficulty in finding a place clear of them. En-Noor suffers
+dreadfully from the cold, and we help to keep him alive by our coffee,
+which he drinks shivering, and then admits to have given him renovated
+heat and strength. This coffee keeps the old fellow in a good humour,
+and he is extremely civil to us.
+
+_3d._--We started early, and made four hours and a-half, when we stopped
+at the village Inasamet, or Unwessemet. The weather is still the same,
+and the route continues to wind through a scattered wilderness of small
+trees, amongst which Overweg thought he had discovered a species of wild
+orange.
+
+We now see signs of approaching habitations, such as flocks of sheep
+straying, and droves of oxen feeding begin to appear. There seems to be
+a great number of birds of prey hereabouts. I counted at least thirty
+vultures, who watched the passing of the caravan, in hopes to see a
+camel fall and be abandoned.
+
+We encamped a stone's throw beyond the houses. The well is called by the
+same name as the village. The inhabitants are Tuaricks, and some of them
+of a very pure race, almost white; whilst others, again, are dark: they
+are called Tagama. The women and children all came out to sell their
+cheeses, and a few other things. I purchased two small fowls and a good
+number of cheeses, which seem to be the principal articles of produce:
+they are made quite square, three or four inches a side, and a quarter
+of an inch thick. I purchased these with imitation silver rings, of
+which the people are immensely fond, preferring them to the imitation
+gold ring. I got two cheeses for a ring--a plain hoop: the fowls cost
+each three of these toys. The women and girls bothered me much with
+their curiosity and their bartering. Some of them are as stout as the
+Mooresses of the coast, and nearly all are well-looking; many with very
+good features, and fair for this country. All are polite enough, men,
+women, and children. We are glad to find the people more civil, the
+nearer we approach to Soudan. We pray and hope this amendment may
+continue; for hitherto, since we left Mourzuk, we have always had the
+people, with the exception of those of Tintalous, more or less hostile
+towards us. Some of our customers came to ask if the rings were really
+silver, for the blacksmith of the village had said they were only
+pewter. We replied, they were _de-de_ silver; that is, looked like it,
+or equal to it. They are, indeed, a most excellent imitation of silver,
+and answer quite as well the purpose of adorning these Targhee beauties.
+
+I saw to-day, on a single bough of tholukh, and a very small bough,
+three birds' nests suspended in a festoon. I tasted the wild
+water-melons of this part of the Sahara, and found them bitterness
+itself. But I am told by our Gatronee, that the Tibboos have a method of
+extracting the bitterness from this wild fruit. The people brought me
+_en route_ some fruit, called in Bornou _kusulu_, and _mageria_ in
+Haussa; that is, the _nebek_ or fruit of the sider or lote-tree. They
+were dry, but sweet and nice, and of a pleasant, acid sweet. Provisions
+thus are becoming more plentiful and varied. Dr. Barth has bought some
+meat of _el-wagi_, the name given by Yusuf for the bugar wahoush, or
+wild ox of the Arabs.
+
+The greater part of the trees in this region are of the species called
+in Haussa, _tadani_, and in Bornouese, _kabi_. Were these trees adorned
+with leaves--they are now fallen off, in consequence of the cold--the
+country about would seem covered with a dense forest.
+
+Our arrival amongst the Tagama is a new era in our journeying, it being
+some time since we saw any men besides Kailouees. Overweg thinks the men
+thieves and bad, and the women lascivious; but I observed in their
+conduct nothing different from other Tuaricks. A man, however, offered
+several women to Barth. I have never yet had such offers. Amongst the
+things brought for sale are young ostriches and the eggs of ostriches. I
+ate in the evening some flesh of the giraffe; it is pretty well tasted,
+and something like beef. Hunting the giraffe is a great occupation with
+the people of this village, and the flesh of the animal a source of
+subsistence for them. They have, however, besides, cattle and flocks;
+and the karengia, which has proved such an annoyance to us, is the
+principal farinaceous food of these Tagama, as the bou rekaba is the
+principal food of poor families in Aheer. Inasamet has, perhaps, a
+hundred huts, covered with the skins of the bullock, and probably of the
+giraffe. The latter animal is hunted by men mounted on horseback, who
+throw their spears at it, and wound it under the belly. This is said to
+be the only way of killing it, for the rest of its body is covered with
+a sort of rhinoceros hide, of great thickness. Of this hide they make
+famous sandals, which wear long.
+
+It is difficult to decide how far this immense plain--which extends as
+far as Aghadez on the N.W., to Gouber on the S.W., perhaps as far as the
+plain of Senezrouft, on the route of Timbuctoo--passing, besides,
+eastwards across the route of Bornou,--how far this vast space of desert
+is a plateau to the surrounding countries; that is, whether higher or
+lower than their level. We do not think it is a plateau in reference to
+Aheer. There is another route to Damerghou, westward of this, on which
+is situate the forest of Kob-kob, the place mentioned in the itinerary
+which I procured from the people of Ghadamez.
+
+_4th._--The morning was cold, with wind. The Tagama, I observe, have
+many horses. Like their more civilised brethren in Europe, these people
+find this the most tractable and convenient animal in every case where
+the desert does not interfere.
+
+We came south seven hours and a-quarter; after four, the wavy country
+broke up into a deep valley; in another hour, on the right, was seen a
+pool of rain-water--a small lake, stretching nearly a mile long. The
+country, as yesterday, was undulating, and covered with a dwarf forest;
+but the trees were thicker, and the ground was covered with dried
+herbage, mostly karengia. It is our constant occupation, morning and
+evenings, for half an hour, to pick the burs out of our clothes. The
+animals seen were mostly small birds; some flights of blackbirds,
+two-thirds the size of the English blackbird; and crows and doves in
+numbers. Near the water I picked up the feathers of the guinea-fowl, and
+the piece of a shell of a large turtle. Burrows of the hyaena and the
+ant-eater dotted the ground. En-Noor told me that lions also abound in
+the thickets. The lions conceal themselves in the trees, and the hyaenas
+burrow under ground.
+
+Our people are now on the threshold of Damerghou, and do not know yet
+what route they will take from this country to Kanou; whether by Tesaoua
+or Zinder. Even En-Noor seems quite undecided what he shall do.
+
+_5th._--We came well on to-day, eight hours and twenty minutes. After
+four or five hours we passed on the roadside a dozen huts, with
+skin-roofs or coverings. The people are some light, some dark;
+variegated, like most of the Tuaricks. The children of eight or nine
+years go quite naked. After two hours more we came upon the large
+village of Gumrum, or Gumrek. I saw many people, light and dark; the
+women are fat and bold, free in their conversation; and the men
+evidently fanatical. The latter shouted that we ought not to pass,
+because we were infidels. One fellow was very savage, and cursed me; he
+was an old grey-headed gentleman, and seemed quite excited. These people
+are also of the tribe of the Tagama. Amankee came up to me, whispering,
+"These are like the Kalfadai, they would rob you as they did, only they
+are all in the hands of the Sofo (En-Noor)."
+
+The inhabitants of Gumrek have much cattle. We ourselves saw some five
+or six hundred head, and they must have more than double this number,
+besides flocks and horses. The men mostly ride horses, but their breed
+is miserably small and ill-looking. People in poor circumstances mount
+bullocks, as do all the women.
+
+To the west, lately, there came off a great razzia. All this country
+around, for some hundred miles, is the noted theatre of such
+expeditions, which are mostly undertaken against the salt and other
+caravans, where there is considerable booty expected. The smaller
+caravans escape. When the Kilgris and Kailouees are in open hostility,
+they generally make this the theatre of their battles; the former
+carrying off the salt of the latter. This hostility is, like that of
+most of the wild tribes, of ancient date. The Kilgris have been driven
+from all this part of Asben by the Kailouees. The houses we passed in
+ruins are said to have been once occupied by the Kilgris. If so, they
+evidently were in former times powerful and opulent, and have since
+become relaxed and pusillanimous. At any rate, they have been expelled
+by the fiercer and more ferocious Kailouees. The Oulimad also come here
+to plunder occasionally. At Gurarek we saw a phenomenon which, after so
+much desert, gladdened indeed our eyes. This was a fine sheet of water,
+of great extent, covered with a forest of luxurious trees. It was a
+genuine Soudan picture, and we gazed at it with delight. I nevertheless
+thought of the pestilential exhalations of the stagnant pools further on
+in Soudan. The ground holds the water tightly, for wells are sunk near
+it of some depth before water is reached. This pool, or lake, dries up
+during the heat of summer, as is proved by the existence of wells sunk
+in their beds.
+
+The country to-day was extremely pleasant, like some parts of the
+undulating county of Essex, after the harvest is gathered. I scarcely
+expected to find such reminiscences in Africa, on the frontiers of
+Pamerghou. If the vegetation were all in leaf, the scenery would be
+quite cheerful and happy-looking. The trees to-day thickened into
+forests down some slopes--but there is nothing tropical in all this
+verdure; one or two plants, at most, are all that could be considered as
+such. Many gazelles glanced on either hand as we proceeded: the
+guinea-hen was in great numbers, thirty or forty together, old ones and
+chickens. They run very quickly through the forests, and cannot be taken
+in the day. At night, however, some are snared. They feed on the
+karengia, and get immensely plump. Their flesh is greatly esteemed.
+Doves showed themselves in flights; and many beautiful small birds, some
+strangers to my eyes. One especially, a little black-and-white fellow,
+with an immense bushy tail. Vultures, in company with a variegated crow,
+were feeding on a dead camel. This curious crow has a white neck and
+breast. What a truly Saharan group is that which I have just noticed.
+The vulture feeding on a camel fallen in the desert, towards the end of
+an arduous journey!
+
+We met a party of huntsmen, with three bullocks to carry their ghaseb.
+They had six dogs, and told us they were off after the giraffe. A few
+lizards now and then glanced over the path, and at every thirty or forty
+yards rose a busy ant-hill.
+
+En-Noor and I converged to-day from the backs of our respective camels.
+He asked me particularly if I liked stout women, and whether stout women
+were found in England. I replied, gravely, that this species occurred in
+all Christian countries; a piece of zoological information which seemed
+highly to gratify him. His highness still pretends he does not know
+where he is going--that is, whether to Zinder or Tesaoua.
+
+We encamped near a shallow wady, the first we have seen in this part of
+the country; i.e. a well-defined dry bed of a river.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+My Barracan--Spontaneous Civility on arrival in Damerghou--Ghaseb
+Stubble--Cactus--Water-Melons--Party of Tuaricks--Boban Birni--Huts of
+Damerghou--Tagelel--Women of the Village--Population of the
+Country--Complaisant Ladies--Festivities--Aquatic Birds--Dancing--A
+Flatterer--A Slave Family--A new Reason for Wife-beating--Hazna
+Dancers--Damerghou, common ground--Purchase of Ghaseb--Dethroned
+Sultan--Yusuf--Mohammed Tunisee--Ophthalmia--Part with Barth and
+Overweg--Presents to Servants--Sheikh of Fumta--Yakobah
+Slave--Applications for Medicine--Boban Birni--Forest--At length enter
+Bornou ground--Daazzenai--Tuarick Respectabilities--Detachment of the
+Salt-Caravan.
+
+
+_Jan. 6th._--We came seven hours. The weather is always thick, as for
+many days past; but the wind not so strong, nor the air so cold. We had
+even some drops of rain; and, probably, the rain here is not so
+constant, in its fall in summer-time, as is generally supposed. I took
+out my last barracan, as some precaution against the threatening clouds.
+This barracan excited everybody's attention; every one admired it, and
+asked for it. I was plagued to death by the people, and I vowed I would
+not take it out again be the weather what it might. The same demand had
+been repeatedly made for my poor carpet; so, on the following day, I
+took it off from the camel.
+
+An hour before we pitched tent; we passed a town on the top of a hill
+composed of huts, some covered with skins, and some made of straw. Our
+encampment is in a wady, near a cluster of hovels. The people came
+running to welcome us, by offering ghaseb for sale. Two volunteered to
+assist us in clearing a clean place for our tents. This being the first
+act of spontaneous assistance which we had witnessed from Tripoli to
+Damerghou, I gave them each a ring. We are now fairly in Damerghou; and
+to-day we saw the first specimens of the culture in this part of Africa.
+The ground is cleared by burning, as on the coast; which burning serves
+partly to supply the place of manure. The people, apparently slaves,
+were burning and raking up the ashes and stubble, with rakes made of
+fallen branches of trees. We passed through wide tracts of ghaseb
+stubble. Some of the stalks were seven or eight feet high, but the ears
+were not larger than those seen at Ghadamez--about eight or nine inches.
+
+Amongst the plants observed yesterday was the cactus, with a smooth
+leaf. Water-melons were also found in the road, mostly quite good and
+sweet, but some white ones perfectly tasteless. None, even those
+cultivated, are equal to the melons of the coast; there are no mealy
+ones here.
+
+We were met by a party of Tuaricks, who came to salute En-Noor, mounted
+on horseback. As we had had some very rough customers amongst the
+Tagama, I took little notice of them, and continued eating my bread and
+cheese. At this the people of the caravan laughed. They thought we ought
+always to receive these strangers, Tuaricks, with fear and trembling. I
+deemed the contrary plan more politic. However, had I known they were
+official persons, and one son of a sheikh of a town, I should have given
+them a more civil welcome.
+
+_7th._--We came eight hours and a-half south, over an undulating
+country, intersected with small wadys, and through ghaseb stubble. All
+was wavy ground, and bare of trees. There is, however, a small hill, at
+a distance of some ten miles from our encampment, called Boban Birni,
+"Great City," of conical form. Numerous villages were scattered along
+the whole line of route, a few of some size. The form of the huts is
+like that of beehives. Around them are small magazines of ghaseb,
+supported on wooden stakes, very like corn-stacks. The inhabitants of
+these Damerghou villages are blacks, with features like the Bornouese.
+In fact, they speak the Bornou languages, and are said to have been the
+product of past razzias in that country by the Tuaricks.
+
+Damerghou is the granary of Asben, and seems to be entirely in
+possession of the Asbenouees, nearly all these villages being peopled by
+the slaves of the Tuaricks. Some villages, indeed, contain nothing but
+slaves.
+
+Few animals were noticed to-day, but we saw four gazelles feeding
+together, and some hares. Not many birds appeared, on account of the
+fewness of the trees. Only a small portion of the ground is cultivated,
+but the camels and cattle are taken to be fed in the waste lands.
+
+We encamped at the village of En-Noor, called Tagelel. The capital of
+Damerghou is on the west (N.W.) from this, and is called Olleloa. The
+place is governed by Tuaricks.
+
+People say there are two or three hundred towns and villages in the
+country. Damerghou is not considered as part of Soudan, because it is
+possessed by the Tuaricks; but the country and climate are undoubtedly
+the same as all the neighbouring Soudanee territories. The weather was
+very warm and oppressive to-day. I fancied I suffered from the change of
+climate. I felt not quite well, and was much annoyed by the disobedience
+of the servants. Mohammed Tunisee has spoiled them all, and even Yusuf
+has done his share of mischief.
+
+_8th._--The weather was warm again this morning. I had a visit from the
+female slaves of the village of En-Noor, introduced by the wife of his
+highness. I gave them rings and sugar, and sent them off in a good
+humour. The country around looks exceedingly bare, almost free from
+trees. There is a little herbage for the camels. Ghaseb stubble,
+however, spreads all over, which looks well for the industry of the poor
+slaves. The karengia has disappeared.
+
+The news of the day goes that En-Noor will take me himself to Zinder. He
+probably wants to make acquaintance with the new governor of that place,
+as well as to see us safe there. The Tuaricks paid me a visit. I gave
+them a bit of sugar, showed them a gun, and got rid of them. A present
+of leban from a daughter of En-Noor induced me to give her a ring.
+
+Amankee says the population of this country is very various, but the
+Tuaricks of Asben are the masters. The villagers are not all slaves;
+there are many free people amongst them,--also Buza in numbers; Tuaricks
+who, having settled in Soudan, have forgotten their own language,
+speaking only Haussa. Many visitors trouble us, but we hope for a
+diminution to-morrow. The people of Damerghou are reported as enormous
+thieves, but we have seen as yet but little of their propensities this
+way, having, happily, lost nothing.
+
+I made a visit to the village, and was well received by the principal
+slave of En-Noor, who presented me with ghaseb-bread, cheese, and furd,
+or ghaseb-water. The ladies were singularly complaisant, and one offered
+me her friend; another was offered by a man. I believe these offers made
+in the way of compliments. In the East, it would not be prudent to take
+him at his word who should say, "Everything I have is yours." The huts
+of the village are very clean, and are inhabited entirely by slaves of
+En-Noor. These villages of Damerghou, at a distance, have the appearance
+of Chinese villages, such as I have seen drawn, with eaves cocked up
+like the rim of a French hat. The evening was given up to festivities,
+the slaves of the caravan uniting with those of the Tagelel. A regular
+procession brought the supper from the village to the people of the
+caravan, and then the music and dancing began. We had no supper sent.
+His highness is amazingly shabby in this respect. He fancies, perhaps,
+he could send us nothing better than what we have ourselves got, but he
+might try the compliment. We are, however, obliged to him for preventing
+others from levying contributions upon us in this new region. The
+Tuaricks here--all the strangers--are very civil; on account, I believe,
+of our being with the old man. He is of great negative utility.
+
+Overweg went to a lagoon, with little green isles in the midst of it,
+and shot some ducks. Ducks! This convinces us that we are now in the
+country of water. A wader was shot, and a fine plump bird something like
+a partridge, which Mohammed Tunisee calls _poule de Carthage_, but it is
+much smaller than those that I have eaten in Tunis. Many aquatic birds
+were flying or floating about the lake.
+
+The dancing in the evening was after this fashion. Two men beat drums,
+standing on one side of a circle marked. The dancers advanced towards
+them with shy and coyish gesture, and then swung round and round to the
+opposite side of the circle in a sort of time kept by the beating of the
+drum. They threw up their legs, but not in an indecent manner. It was a
+kind of simple waltzing. The men were not more violent in action than
+the women. Each sex danced separately, the women beginning first and
+then retiring. During the performance a song was kept up, a continually
+recurring rhyme. When it became dark the male and female slaves made
+love, and coquetted together. We, too, had our music; a strolling
+minstrel came to our tent by appointment to play on his guitar. He sang
+all our praises in very nice Haussa words, and indulged in the most
+extraordinary flattery I ever heard. I was Sultan, and had the riches of
+the world at my command. _Over_ was the great doctor, and what he could
+not cure, God himself could not cure. _Bar_ was the wise man, knowing
+all languages and all things. We tried not to be pleased, but in vain.
+Flattery is sweet, especially when enveloped in song.
+
+The weather was hot to-day, and sultry. I made many little presents,
+some to a fighi of Bornou, a Shoua Arab, who repeated the fatah to us.
+It is reported that a great deal of the salt goes with En-Noor to
+Zinder, from which we are separated by two days' journey, one of
+villages and another of forest.
+
+_9th._--The morning opened with wind, as usual, from the N.E. The
+weather was cooler than yesterday. I visited a group of cottages, or
+rather huts, and received a present of a korna for holding water. The
+thatch of these primitive habitations was of bou rekaba stalks. The
+korna is allowed to twine itself over the roofs, as the woodbine over
+our cottages, and looks very pretty. This group of cottages was
+inhabited by a single family,--alas! all slaves.
+
+According to Overweg, the reason En-Noor beat his wife in the terrible
+manner mentioned in this journal was, because she was accustomed to
+glide out of her chamber at night to witness the dances--the beastly
+dances of the north coast. I certainly was surprised to hear that she
+was present at these filthy exhibitions. "Have I not bought you?" his
+highness remonstrated with her. "Are you not my slave?" "No." she
+replied; "I am your wife, not your slave." So the lady continued, till
+she aggravated his highness into a great fury. Many Europeans, it must
+be confessed, would beat their wives for a less cause.
+
+It is now said, his highness goes first to Tesaoua. We start all
+to-morrow, at any rate. The bells which cover the horses are without
+clappers, but being close together they make a great jingling noise by
+dashing one against another. Suppers were brought this evening, but the
+singing and dancing were not continued. We had, however, at sunset, a
+visit from a Hazna dancer,--a perfect specimen of African buffoonery and
+jingling. He danced and sung with the wildest barbarity. He had two
+followers, to pick up the offerings of the people. They beat two pieces
+of stick together to the motion of his legs, hung with bells. The upper
+part of his body was naked, whilst the lower part was covered with a red
+and yellow apron. This man is said to drink beer, and is a professed
+pagan.
+
+I went to the wells, which are bored through the hard red clay, in the
+shape of small circular holes, of about fifty feet in depth. There is
+very little water at this season, but it is sufficient for the wants of
+the village when the salt-caravan is not here.
+
+The inhabitants of Damerghou consist of Kailouee Tuaricks--Bornouese
+runaways and slaves--Haussa people, free and slaves--Bousa, or the
+descendants of Tuaricks by slaves, and a few Fullanee. This is also the
+refuge of dethroned sultans, as well as runaway slaves. There is now
+here the Kailouee prince called Maaurgi, who exercised authority some
+years since in Aheer. Damerghou, indeed, appears to be common ground,
+where every one who pleases, and is strong enough, comes to establish
+himself. Many runaways, freemen from Bornou, who had committed some
+misdemeanour, being found in this country weak and unable to protect
+themselves, were reduced to slavery by a Tuarick prince. The slaves here
+answer to the serfs of Russia, with the exception that they may be taken
+away and sold in other countries.
+
+_10th._--The morning was cool because of the wind. They held a souk, or
+market, to-day near us. Provisions were very cheap. I was greatly amused
+to see the small quantities of sunbal which Mahadee had laid out for two
+zekkas of ghaseb. For myself I was much plagued by the women, who all
+admire my beard; not, certainly, my red nose, which is terribly scorched
+and peeled by the sun.
+
+Overweg visited the dethroned Sultan of Asoudee, who is living here in
+state, in the midst of his slaves. He holds a sort of court, and,
+contrary to the free customs of the Tuaricks, he permits slaves who
+approach him to prostrate themselves and throw dust on their heads. He
+is the uncle of the present Sultan of Asoudee, and is called Masouarji.
+In his fallen condition he gave Overweg a hospitable reception, and a
+present of dates, which was duly acknowledged.
+
+Yusuf, refusing to do some translation which I requested him, now
+forfeits all claims to my service. I told him, to-day, to go off to
+Kanou. Afterwards I arranged with him to go with me to Zinder, where,
+before the governor, I hope to get clear of him; for he is now of little
+use, and costs me more than all my servants together.
+
+Mohammed Tunisee has done him great harm; but, nevertheless, this chap
+continues to improve since the arrangement made, by which he becomes
+only the servant of Barth. The Germans, however, are still afraid of
+him. Yusuf is trying the same system with me, but will probably find
+that it will end in no good affair for himself. Mohammed Tunisee and
+Yusuf seem hitherto to have combined to spoil all our people. The
+liberated slaves from Tunis, brought up by me, have turned out the best
+and most faithful servants. I am much pleased with this.
+
+All the people of Damerghou are afflicted with ophthalmia, which is said
+to arise from the winds that prevail constantly over this open and
+unsheltered country. Some of the people pretend it is caused by drinking
+ghaseb-water, which appears absurd enough. The Moorish and other
+merchants attribute the greater part of their diseases to drinking
+water,--especially the fevers. How much truth there is in this assertion
+is not easy to be determined.
+
+_11th._--It has been agreed that I and my colleagues should here part
+for a time, Dr. Barth going to Kanou, and Dr. Overweg to Tesaoua and
+Maradee, whilst I proceed with En-Noor direct to Zinder. Dr. Barth
+promises to be in Kuka in two months; and Dr. Overweg says he will
+immediately correspond, that is from Tesaoua to Zinder. The latter has
+the more difficult journey before him; but even Dr. Barth's visit to
+Kanou may turn out a more serious business than perhaps he anticipates.
+We took leave one of the other with some emotion; for in Central Africa,
+those travellers who part and take divergent routes can scarcely count
+on all meeting together again.
+
+I also here parted with Amankee, my Haussa servant. He had behaved
+indifferently lately, but nevertheless, as he rendered us some service
+in the acquirement of the Haussa languages, and in other matters, I made
+him a present of four dollars for one extra time he had remained with
+us. He had been paid his wages at Mourzuk to go with us to Zinder, but
+then we expected to be only three months _en route_. In a moment, just
+as we were starting, he changed his mind, and would go to his home at
+once. This is his character,--levity and instability,--otherwise he is a
+good fellow enough. He is one of those Tuaricks who have settled in
+Haussa and forgotten their native tongue. I have been often obliged to
+use harsh language to him, to curb his levity. In parting with the
+servants of the Germans, I promised them each a present of six dollars
+if I heard a good report of them on their arrival at Kuka. This present
+is held out as an inducement because it is impossible to tell what may
+happen, as the Germans will nearly always be without any special escort.
+En-Noor, however, sends one of his slaves with Overweg to Maradee, and
+Barth goes with the salt-caravan to Kanou.
+
+I was much disappointed that we made but one hour this morning (south).
+To pass the time, I determined to visit some of the villages with which
+Damerghou is overscattered. I went first to a place called Fumta Bou
+Beker, twenty-five minutes from our encampment. Here I found the Sheikh,
+who had just returned from Kanou,--a considerable merchant. He received
+me with great hospitality, and gave me ghaseb-water, and some little
+pieces of meat, roasted, besides milk. I was accompanied by my stupid
+mahadee, who is, nevertheless, not a bad market-man. He purchased a
+large calabash of milk, and a peck of beans, for some small pieces of
+jaui, or benzoin. I then administered caustic to all the eyes of the
+village--at least sixty persons--including men, women, and children,
+with the Sheikh. Bad eyes were the only pressing complaints of the
+place.
+
+The villagers all spoke Bornouese. I believe this is the general
+language of Damerghou. There were only two or three Tuaricks present.
+Most of the people were free. The Sheikh, of course, had several slaves;
+amongst them a Yakobah slave, with straight lines cicatrised in curious
+patterns all over his body. The poor fellow seemed remarkably stupid,
+and I believe that many of these poor fellows brought from the more
+distant countries of Soudan become half idiots from continually
+regretting their beloved country. Alas! what can be done for Africa,
+when the greater part of its social system is constructed on slavery?
+
+Curious applications are made for medicines to cure various afflictions,
+moral and physical, amongst these people. A woman, to-day, begged for a
+medicine to prevent her children from dying. She had had many children,
+and all had died. Another woman applies for a medicine to prevent her
+husband from liking her rival, and to make him place his affection on
+her. A man demands medicine for good luck, and says he is always
+unfortunate.--Good people, I am not the physician to be called in in
+these cases.
+
+It is night, and En-Noor has not made his appearance. I am travelling
+with his wife and the other women; besides, there are a number of male
+slaves and some thirty camels of salt. Probably his highness will go
+another way to Zinder.
+
+I believe that Fumta Bou Beker is quite an independent village, and that
+all the great towns and villages here have an independent jurisdiction
+of their own. According to a slave of En-Noor, there are two sultans.
+
+_12th._--The morning was cool and windy. We started pretty early, and
+moved one hour through huts scattered amidst the ghaseb stubble. Then
+came three hours of undulating ground, uncultivated. Afterwards we fell
+in with huts again; and in two hours more reached the conical-shaped
+mount called Boban Birni. It consists of a sort of coarse sandstone and
+is in part overgrown with herbage. From the encampment to Mount Boban
+Birni was a distance of six hours S.W. It can be seen from afar off,
+though in reality not very lofty. We passed the mount for two hours
+through a forest of dwarf trees; the country still billowy, as it were.
+We advanced in all about eight hours, braced by a pleasant north-east
+wind. As we advanced we saw ostriches quietly feeding at no great
+distance, not heeding our caravan as it murmured by. Partridges rose as
+we advanced; together with guinea-hens, blackbirds, crows, black and
+white, and several long-tailed flutterers.
+
+_13th._--The morning was overcast, with cold wind. We started early, and
+made a long day of nine hours and a-half, and did not encamp until an
+hour after dark. Our course, as we ascended from Mount Boban Birni, was
+S. 3 deg. E. The country still undulated through the same forest, which in
+many places was quite dense, whilst in others the trees were scattered.
+
+When we reached the camping-ground a pleasant announcement was made. We
+were at length upon Bornou soil! I could hardly believe my ears. Oh,
+marvel, after all our dangers and misgivings! Thanks to Almighty God for
+deliverance from the hands of lawless tribes! I shall never forget the
+sensation with which I learned that I was at length really in Bornou,
+and that the robber Tuarick was in very truth definitively left behind.
+
+Our encampment was near a little village of twenty huts, called
+Daazzenai, placed under a rock of red stone. The country of Damerghou,
+in this direction, is separated from Bornou by about eleven hours of
+forest, or some thirty miles English--a sufficient distance to divide
+two countries, especially in Africa. The trees were larger to-day, and
+some of considerable altitude. Many pretty yellow blossoms, glowed on a
+species of shrub not unlike the laburnum.
+
+I observed scattered in the forest small mounds of mud, wasting away to
+the level of the ground; there were many of them; the birds perch
+thereon.
+
+We have seen a few nice families amongst the Tuaricks and their slaves,
+but these are mostly foreigners. There is the family of the Tripoline
+slave; her husband is a pleasant, quiet man, and one of En-Noor's
+household; she has a daughter and one cade-lamb. Then there is the
+Bornou fighi and his wife. These people are so affable, that they always
+have visitors near their little tent. They have also a cade-lamb. Their
+tent is a curiosity. It is just large enough for one of them to creep
+in--not for two. I suppose the fighi enters at night, and leaves his
+wife to sleep at the door.
+
+A detachment of the salt-caravan passed us to-day for Zinder. The whole
+force of the salt-caravan this year could not be more than fifteen
+hundred. Two divisions were with us of Kailouees, one in advance, each
+of five hundred, and the Kilgris' division of five hundred. So much for
+the boasted ten thousand camels which were gone this year to bring salt!
+From En-Noor one could not possibly get correct statistics, for, being a
+thorough Kailouee and a Tuarick, he magnifies everything connected with
+his people before strangers, and particularly to us. It was very amusing
+to see all the little children warming themselves in the evening at the
+fire, or feeding the flames with brushwood, which they easily collected.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+March for Zinder--Enter the City--Reception--Delighted to escape from
+the Tuaricks--Letters from Kuka--Hospitable Treatment--Presents for the
+Sarkee and others--Visit the Shereef--His Duties--Audience of the
+Sarkee--Servility--Double-skulled Slave--Powder and Shot--Portrait of
+the Sultan--Commission from Kuka--European Clothes--Family of
+En-Noor--Tour of the Town--Scavengers--List of Sultans of Central
+Africa--Ancient Haussa--The Market--Money--Conversation
+with the Shereef--The Sultan at Home--Mixed Race of
+Zinder--Statistics--Personages of the Court.
+
+
+_Jan. 14th._--We started early, in hopes to reach Zinder in the course
+of the morning. Our course of five hours was S. 10 deg. E. from the
+encampment. The route from En-Noor's palace in Damerghou is two good
+days and a-half. After two hours and a-half we came to huts in a valley,
+and a village of thirty or forty houses, called Boban Tabki. In three
+quarters of an hour there were villages again. I was pleased to see the
+corn-stacks or field-granaries standing in the open country, apart from
+all houses or habitations, illustrating the security of property in
+Zinder and its neighbouring districts. The country all around is
+pleasant, nicely undulating with ridges of green hills--the horizon
+bounded on every side with rounded green hills.
+
+We sighted Zinder after four hours' march; and entered the town within
+another hour. I was somewhat impatient to get rid of the Tuaricks, and
+place myself in the hands of the Bornou authorities; so I rode off
+myself to the town, leaving the suburbs, where the family of En-Noor
+have their residence, deaf to all their cries to stop. I found a
+friendly Kailouee, who conducted me straight to the house of the
+governor. His servants took me to the Shereef, and the Shereef sent me
+to Said, my servant, where I found a house and everything prepared for
+my reception; and here, also, I found a slave sent from Bornou by the
+Sheikh, to conduct me to Kuka: so all things wore a happy aspect after
+so many miseries and uncertainties.
+
+I was delighted with the appearance of Zinder, its picturesque
+situation, and its unexpected size. It is much larger than I was led to
+expect. As soon as I was domiciled I received visits from several
+merchants of Mourzuk, besides the authorities of the town. All the sons
+of the Sultan of the place came to salute me; I gave them each a little
+sugar, and off they went highly pleased. Provisions now poured in at
+such a rate, that after the starvation of the desert I became nauseated
+at their sight. These were sent by the Sultan and the Shereef.
+
+Thankful satisfaction for my deliverance from the wild tribes, the most
+hostile to Christians of all this part of Africa, and fond anticipations
+of what I may do in Bornou; the good news I already heard, and the
+anxiety of the Sheikh for our safety, with my comparatively robust
+health;--thoughts of all these things prevented me from sleeping during
+the night.
+
+I learnt from Said, servant of Haj Beshir, that letters had arrived from
+Mourzuk for us in Kuka, and one was addressed to the Sheikh, which had
+determined him to bring us all at once to Kuka, and prevent us going
+first to Soudan. Upon this advice, the Sultan of this place had sent
+four persons to Tesaoua, to bring my colleagues from that place. But
+whether they will come on the demand of these persons is very
+questionable. I learned that the Sfaxee, as I expected, was laid up with
+fever in Kanou, for he is emphatically a man of fever; and, besides, he
+has no control over himself, but gorges himself with food when an
+opportunity presents itself; and this, after the privations of the
+desert, is sure to bring on disease. Yusuf Moknee came to me this
+evening, to know what was to be done on the next morning. He finds it
+necessary to alter his conduct, as he sees now that I could do without
+him. I determined to go on with him for the present. I do not wish to
+leave him here with En-Noor, for he may do us harm with that subtle
+Kailouee prince. I must take him away from the Tuaricks altogether.
+
+I found all the Mourzuk people very friendly--everybody friendly; the
+world seemed turned upside down after our treatment from the Tuaricks. I
+began to make little presents, for I am determined our friends shall
+have a portion of her Majesty's goods as well as our enemies; which
+latter, indeed, took them away from us by force. I must not forget to
+remark, that when I entered Zinder there was not a single person bold
+enough to whisper the name _Kafer!_ so immense is the difference between
+this Bornou country and the Tuarick territories.
+
+_15th._--I rose early, having slept little. The weather was cool, the
+thermometer at sunrise being at 59 deg.. I began to prepare our presents for
+the Sultan and the Shereef. After much debating as to quantity, it was
+determined to keep all the best things for Kuka, and give small presents
+here. In this respect I must praise Yusuf and his friends amongst the
+Mourzuk people.
+
+I prepared a present for Sarkee Ibrahim, sultan of Zinder, consisting of
+a piece of muslin for turban, a red turban, three heads of sugar, two
+glass drinking-cups, painted, a cup and saucer for coffee, a few rings
+in imitation of gold, cloves, two handkerchiefs (cotton), powder and
+shot, fifty bullets, two or three small looking-glasses. The present for
+the Shereef consisted of a carpet (hearth-rug), used here for kneeling
+upon in performing prayers, three white sugar-loaves, cloves,
+handkerchief (cotton), powder and shot, with some other trifles. The
+present for Said, sent by Haj Beshir from Kuka, consisted of a cloth
+caftan (coarse), a cotton handkerchief, and a piece of cotton stuff to
+make a pillow.
+
+I am happy to add, that all were content and satisfied; but we made them
+understand--indeed, they knew it before we arrived--that the Tuaricks
+had taken away nearly all my property.
+
+I must add the present of the Shereef Saghir (little Shereef), who acts
+as interpreter for the Sultan: a glass painted drinking-cup, a
+handkerchief (cotton), a little sugar, jani, senbal, a few cloves, and
+two or three rings; with which he was well satisfied.
+
+Before noon I waited on the Shereef to deliver my present. I was much
+struck with this man's appearance. He was quite an European--white as
+myself. His countenance seemed full of thought and meaning. He is a
+native of Fez, and has lived long in Algiers. He has served in the war
+against the French under Abd-el-Kader, and has only been two years in
+Bornou and in Kuka, and once in Zinder. He is here as the _nather_,
+"looker-on;" one who watches over the interests of the country,
+particularly in its foreign relations. To speak plainly, he is a spy of
+the Sheikh of Bornou over the authorities of Zinder, including the
+Governor. All the people say, "Without the Shereef nothing can be done
+in Zinder;" and well they may, considering that he is in the entire
+confidence of the Sheikh. The Shereef is also the agent of all
+foreigners, and our goods were directed to his care from Tintalous--that
+is, those things which we sent up before us. The Sultans of Zinder are
+always a little disaffected; and to check them, and watch their conduct,
+the Shereef has been sent here. This personage is also universally
+respected for his learning, piety, and almsgiving; so that, apparently,
+the Sheikh could not have intrusted his interests to a more able man.
+The Shereef knows well the use of arms, for it is reported here in
+Zinder that he has killed _forty thousand_ Frenchmen with his own hands!
+The people actually believe this most marvellous report!
+
+After leaving the Shereef we went to salute the Sultan Ibrahim, and
+deliver to his highness our present. We were conducted into a species of
+fort, built of clay, with walls exceedingly thick. Here in a sort of
+anteroom, or open skifa, or hall, we found some fifty soldiers of the
+Sultan, unarmed and bare-headed, with one or two governors of
+neighbouring places, all squatted upon the ground. I was requested to
+squat down amongst them, which I did near a raised mud-bench. There was
+little light, the place being built to shut out the glare and heat of
+the sun. Here I waited a quarter of an hour, till the Sultan was
+announced by the cries of the soldiers, slaves, and domestic officers.
+His highness took his seat upon the mud-bench; and whilst so doing his
+attendants all squatted down, many of them taking up the dust from the
+ground and throwing it over their bare heads, and crying, "Long live the
+Sultan! God bless him!" This is the first occasion on which I have
+witnessed this degrading custom, this abject worship of the
+representative of power. The scene was perfectly African and negro.
+
+I was squatted amidst a number of courtiers, one of whom had a sort of
+double skull, another smaller skull raised above the larger one,--a
+protuberance which came from an accident in infancy. This double-skulled
+man was the chief of the domestics.
+
+The Sultan was in a merry humour, and smilingly asked after my health.
+We then read our letters of recommendation, which pleased him. He
+observed that the route _via_ Aheer was good. "How good," asked Yusuf,
+"when we are arrived here naked, and stripped of everything?" At which
+his highness burst out, laughing, with all the people. There was now
+observed a little bustle behind, and his highness called out "Silence!"
+like a sheriff in a court of law. I begged the interpreter to tell the
+Sultan that our present was small, for we had been stripped by the
+Tuaricks. This he whispered in his ear; after which I slipped a packet
+of powder and shot into the hands of one of the principal courtiers,
+telling him it was for the Sultan, and he carried it off. I did not
+place it with the other presents, because the servant of Haj Bashaw,
+sent from Kuka, forbad my giving his highness any powder and shot,
+alleging, that this Sultan was always disaffected, and the Sheikh would
+disapprove of my giving him munitions of war. But I was determined to
+give fifty bullets and two dozen charges of powder, believing that he
+could do the Sheikh little harm, whilst it would make him my personal
+friend. No person knew what I gave the Governor.
+
+The powder and shot being delivered, I took leave of his highness,
+raising my cap and shaking hands with him. At this doffing off the cap
+all the people were highly gratified, thinking great respect was thereby
+shown to their prince.
+
+Ibrahim is a negro, a native of Zinder, a man of fifty years of age,
+with a countenance sparkling with good humour, and I believe I may add,
+intelligence. He has been Sultan here some thirty years, so that he must
+be a man of character. This day he received a renewal of his commission
+from Kuka, a ceremony that takes place every year; and so he was in a
+happy humour. There was also a sort of feast at the palace, and his
+highness rode out with a detachment of cavalry. The persons who brought
+our camels from Kuka also brought the renewed commission, or a man, from
+the Sheikh. Haj Beshir has sent us ten camels, to bring the boat and our
+baggage, in the event of our camels being stolen, or having become weak
+with the journey from Mourzuk. I have, therefore, only to sell my camels
+and turn them into ready money, which I much need, and then start.
+
+We afterwards called again on the Shereef, and had a laugh about the man
+with two skulls. I told the Shereef "two heads were perhaps better than
+one," at which they all burst out laughing. The Shereef was surrounded
+by foreign merchants, all chatting in good humour. These Moors were
+friendly to me. To-day I dressed in my European clothes; first, because
+unless you have very good clothes, such as worn by the people of the
+country, you cut a very bad figure; and secondly, and principally, to
+show the Kailouees, and other strangers, that I was now in a friendly
+place, and that no one dare say anything to me in the way of insult. In
+fact, as yesterday, there is not even a whisper of the word _Kafer_. His
+highness and all the people admired my European gear. I told them that
+now the Turks dressed in the same manner, or nearly so; at which they
+were greatly surprised. I had on a black surtout, tight trousers, and
+varnished boots, gloves, neckerchief, waistcoat; everything European but
+the hat, wearing instead of this the fez cap or shasheeah.
+
+In the evening I paid a visit to the family of En-Noor, who were greatly
+astonished at my transfiguration from a bad Moorish dress into an
+European suit. They were much disconcerted at this change, and my happy
+humour. Madame En-Noor rated me for running away from them yesterday. I
+told them I wished to get to my friends of Bornou as quickly as
+possible. My interpreter also informed them that the Sheikh had sent
+camels, and enlarged on the anxiety of everybody here for our safety.
+They were all displeased at this news, as a reflection upon them and the
+conduct of the Tuaricks. They now beheld quite a change in everything. I
+was anxious to mark this change in our circumstances, that they might
+reflect how they treated Europeans again when fallen into their hands.
+At the same time I showed a desire not to hurt their feelings, wishing
+to be on friendly terms with them whilst here.
+
+The Kailouees are all excessively quiet now. All feel the power of the
+Sheikh, and are almost as submissive as if they were at Mourzuk.
+However, the family of En-Noor still keep begging. But I believe now I
+must finish with them. The Sultan is said by his servants to have gone
+to Tesaoua. I am extremely glad I came without him to this place.
+Perhaps he also was ashamed to bring me. From Tesaoua he will be here
+after some days. People call him, as in Aheer, An-Nour, and not En-Noor.
+The prince of Zinder asked, where is An-Nour? The people are still at
+work preparing this chieftain's apartments, consisting of a circular
+wall of matting, enclosing a number of huts; there is a mud-house in the
+middle, but it is now fallen into ruins.
+
+I made a tour of the town, and was still more pleased than before with
+its size. It is said to contain 20,000 inhabitants. There are many
+divisions, separated by blocks of granite, and small hills. We visited
+the Kaid of a district. He immediately brought us ghaseb-water and milk.
+Really the world seems turned upside down when the conduct of the people
+here is compared with the hospitality which we received from En-Noor,
+although he personally paid us some attentions not vouchsafed by others.
+We came through the souk, where were the sticks of meat roasting, and
+lots of people. No one whispered _Kafer_! The Shereef sent me a horse to
+ride on when I go out, and recommends me to do so.
+
+The scavengers of Zinder are a multitudinous host of a small species of
+filthy-looking vultures, brown and black in colour: they are exceedingly
+tame, for the people never touch them, and they walk about the streets
+tamer than the fowls. I believe the same species of vulture are also the
+scavengers of Kanou. At Zinder they take their evening exercise by
+flying in circles over the city, a hundred or two together. There are a
+few white ones amongst the flock. The Sultan sent for a piece of camphor
+this morning. I gave him some, with a silver French coin and a new
+English farthing.
+
+The news is, that I must stay here ten days, to oblige the slaves who
+have been sent from Kuka to carry the baggage. We are also to stay at
+Minyo a few days, _en route_ four days from this.
+
+I spent the evening gleaning information of the interior. There is now
+no war in any part of Central Africa, i.e. no great wars. Probably the
+princes of Africa, like those of Europe, find that war will not pay. At
+any rate, all is peace for the present. This will facilitate our
+progress. I had a visit from the son of the Kadi of Kuka, an intelligent
+young man, who has promised to come to-morrow to write the routes from
+Zinder to his native place.
+
+I have obtained a list of the names of the principal sultans in this
+part of Africa:
+
+1. Bornou--The Sheikh Omer, the son of the sheikh who reigned in the
+time of the first expedition. He has now reigned fourteen years. He has
+a good character.
+
+2. Sakkatou--Sultan of the Fellatahs, Ali. He is not so great as his
+father Bello, celebrated in the time of the first expedition.
+
+3. Asben, or Aheer--Abd-el-Kader.
+
+4. Maradee--Binono.
+
+5. Gouber--Aliou (Ali).
+
+6. Niffee--Khaleelou. The name of the capital is Gondu. The Sultan is a
+Fullan, but independent of Sakkatou, as are many other Fullan princes.
+
+7. Adamaua--Lauel. He is called by the Fullans Madubbu-Adamaua, i.e.
+Sultan or Kakam of Adamowa. He is a Fullan, but the people whom he
+governs are all Kohlans, or negroes.
+
+8. Yakobah--Ibrahim. His father was called Yakobah, and the country has
+probably derived its recent name of the late sultan; the capital is
+called Baushi. The rulers are Fellatahs.
+
+9. Kanou--Osman Bel-Ibrahim.
+
+10. Kashna--Mohammed-Bello.
+
+11. Zaria--Mahommed Sani.
+
+12. Kataguni--Abd-er-Rahman.
+
+13. Kadaija--Ahmadou.
+
+14. Timbuctoo--Mohammed Lebbu, a Fellatah.
+
+15. Jinnee--
+
+16. Begharmi--Burkmanda.
+
+17. Mandara--
+
+18. Lagun--
+
+19. Zinder--Ibrahim.
+
+The alliances and enmities, the wars and the intrigues of all these
+princes, will one day, perhaps, form materials for some
+semi-mythological history, when civilisation has removed its camp to
+these intertropical regions. Regular annals, however, there never can
+be. No record seems to be kept, except in the unfaithful memories of the
+natives; and even if the contrary were the case, posterity would
+willingly consign to oblivion all but the salient points of this period
+of barbarism and slave-hunting.
+
+Daura is a city of great antiquity, but I have never seen it on the
+maps. It is two days from Zinder on the route to Kanou, and has now
+about the same number of inhabitants as Zinder, or from 20,000 to
+25,000.
+
+Ancient Haussa, according to the Monshee, consisted of seven cities,
+viz.
+
+1. Kanou.
+
+2. Kashna. This city is now about three times the size of Zinder.
+
+3. Daura.
+
+4. Zaria.
+
+5. Gouber.
+
+6. Maradee.
+
+7. Zanbara. This city is now about the size of Kashna. It lies beyond
+Gouber, not far from Sakkatou.
+
+I went to see the souk. There are two market-days in Zinder: the great
+souk on Thursday, and the little one on Friday, the days following one
+another. I rapidly passed through it; it was full of people and
+merchandise; all things in abundance; no one called after me, but I did
+not like to stay long to expose myself. The principal provisions and
+domestic animals offered for sale are cattle (oxen), sheep, camels,
+asses, goats, beef, mutton, samen, honey, ghaseb, ghafouley, a little
+wheat, dried fish (rather stinking, because no salt is used in drying),
+kibabs or roasted pieces of meat, beans, dankali or sweet potatoes;
+which last are brought from Kanou, as also is the fish, &c. I purchased
+three sweet potatoes for a fifth of a penny. There was, besides, also a
+good quantity of merchandise of every sort, and slaves in numbers. Honey
+also is brought from Kanou to this souk. In Kanou, twelve pounds and
+a-half are sold for four thousand wadas, or four-fifths of a dollar. In
+Zinder, the same quantity sells for about double the price. They
+adulterate here and send it to Aheer.
+
+In the evening I went with the Shereef to his garden. He has brought
+with him the tastes of the people of Morocco for gardens, and has
+introduced into Zinder tomatas from Kuka. His beds contain onions,
+peppers, cucumbers, wheat, lemons, date-palms, and some other small
+things. There is a little wheat also, but merely as an ornament. The
+date-palms bear twice a-year, but the dates do not dry in this country.
+There is a part of Soudan where the dates are said to become dry as
+those of Fezzan. The lemons are as good as those on the north coast, but
+they are found only in Soudan. But two or three trees have been seen in
+Bornou. Onions are in abundance, and it is said that those people who
+eat onions do not catch the fevers of Soudan. The Shereef considers the
+horses of this country to have little strength--not to be compared with
+those of the north coast. He has sent me one to ride round the environs.
+We conversed upon Algerian affairs. The Shereef said nothing against the
+French in general; he only complained of the non-fulfilment of the
+treaty of capitulation with Abd-el-Kader and his fellow-prisoners. I
+told him Bou Maza was liberated, which news surprised him. He said Bou
+Maza was a fool, and had no followers. All the conversation of the
+Shereef was marked with good sense. He had been in Malta, and resided
+there two months. His native place is two days' journey from Tangiers.
+He is well acquainted with Christians. He speaks with a strong Mogarbi
+accent. As to this country and the Tuaricks, he observed the Sheikh was
+determined to keep them down, and was not afraid of them.
+
+The Shereef possesses a fair amount of women--some twenty, but only one
+son. I sent this evening presents of rings to the ladies.
+
+Yusuf paid a visit to the Sultan this morning, to carry him a present on
+his part. He entered the interior of the building, and found it full of
+dirt, and bare of every species of furniture. The Sultan himself had
+only upon him a Soudan tobe and a white cap. All the rest of his people
+were bare-headed, and were covered with dirty tobes. This contempt of
+dress arises from the fact that the prince was a slave of the ancient
+Sultans of Bornou. There are, besides, other sultans _en route_ to Kuka,
+of the same stamp; but he of Minyo is said to dress excessively,
+changing his costume five times a-day. We are to remain some days in
+Minyo, of which I am glad, because there we shall see the Bornouese
+population, in a purer state. Here it is mixed somewhat with the
+Kailouees and other tribes. At any rate, the manners of the people are
+somewhat influenced by the great number of foreigners. En-Noor and
+Lousou have both houses in Zinder, which the people dignify by the name
+of _belad_ or "villages," but which are simply enclosures of a few huts.
+
+I have been endeavouring to collect materials for the statistics of
+Zinder. The following note exhibits a partial result:--
+
+Various persons give the population of Zinder at 25,000 or 30,000 souls.
+Let us take the number at 20,000.
+
+The military force consists of cavalry and foot--two thousand cavalry
+having swords, spears, and shields; and eight or nine thousand bowmen,
+having only bows and arrows. This force is commanded by one Shroma Dan
+Magram, who receives the enormous pay of half the land taxes of some
+fifty towns and villages in the circle of the province of Zinder. The
+officers of the Sultan of Zinder are mostly slaves.
+
+The principal personages are Shroma Dan Magram; the Kady, Tahir; the
+Bash Kateb, or Secretary, Dang Gambara; the chief of the Treasury,
+Nanomi; of the Custom-house, Fokana. There are four officers of the
+Treasury, and four of the Custom-house; and, moreover, four Viziers, the
+principal of whom is Mustapha Gadalina.
+
+The Arabs do not pay any custom duties, but all the blacks and the
+Kailouees and Fullans pay as follows:--
+
+A camel, laden or unladen -- 5000 wadas.
+An ass    "         "     --  100  "
+An ox     "         "     --  100  "
+
+There is no duty on goods, and, whether the camels are laden with rich
+burnouses or salt, it is all the same thing.
+
+Camels are very cheap in this country, and the best of all will not
+fetch more than 40,000 wadas, or about sixteen Spanish dollars. The
+Shereef is to purchase ours, four of them for 120,000 wadas; they cost
+about three times the sum in Mourzuk. Horses are not quite so cheap; the
+best will fetch 100,000 wadas.[14] The exchange here is the same as in
+Kanou; 2500 wadas is the value of the large dollar, or douro ghaleet, as
+it is called amongst the Moorish and Arab merchants.
+
+ [14] See p. 216.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+Presents from Officials--Mode of treating Camels--Prices--Cowrie
+Money--Shereef Interpreter--Visits--Harem--Houses--Grand
+Vizier--Picturesque Dances--Tuaricks at Zinder--Kohlans and
+Fullans--Province of Zinder--Account of its Rebellions--Trees--Details
+on the Slave-trade--Prices--Mode of obtaining Slaves--Abject
+Respect of the Sultan--Visits--Interview with the Sarkee--The
+Presence--Curious Mode of administering Justice--Barbarous
+Punishments--Hyaenas--Gurasu--Fighis--Place of Execution--Tree of
+Death--Hyaena Dens--Dancing.
+
+
+_Jan. 17th._--The Sultan this morning sent me an ox. I made him my
+personal friend by giving him the powder and shot, in spite of the
+servant of Haj Beshir from Kuka. The Shereef is excessively generous;
+whether at his own cost or that of Kuka I do not know. I suppose the
+latter, as he had orders from head-quarters to supply us with
+everything. He sends rice, honey, fowls, eggs, milk, tomatas, and all
+things in abundance. I repeat, for the third time, that the world is
+turned upside down, so far as the supply of provisions and hospitality
+is concerned. It is true that the Tuaricks are desperately poor, and
+their generosity must always be very limited.
+
+Our maharees of the salt-caravan went very well, and ate little on the
+road, so that much time was saved in this way. The Tuarick camels are
+far better travellers than the Arab, which sometimes are allowed to eat
+all day long. The females and the young ones are the most troublesome. I
+was much amused to see one of the Kailouee camel-drivers overcome the
+obstinacy of a young camel. The fellow actually bit the loose skin which
+hung over the muzzle of the rebel, and in this manner dragged it to the
+string, and there tied it to the rest. All the male camels are gelded,
+whilst many breeding maharees carry no weights, but follow their
+burdened kind with their foals.
+
+To-day, for the first time, I received cowrie money, viz. four cases,
+made of matting, each containing 30,000. This was the price of four of
+my camels. The Gharian brute I sold to one of the servants for 8000. It
+is quite a labour to count this money, but I perceive that some persons
+are exceedingly expert at it, and count 5000 in a few minutes. There
+would appear to be always some mistakes made; one case was found to have
+ninety-eight short. This certainly is not much out of 30,000, and when a
+dozen people were counting. The small and large shells are all alike,
+and of the same value. But I shall be able to say more of this money
+afterwards. Thirty thousand of these shells are many pounds in weight,
+and not very conveniently carried about.
+
+I visited some of the principal personages this afternoon, with the
+interpreter of the Sultan. This interpreter is a Shereef, and has been a
+sailor, in which capacity he has seen Malta, and many European
+countries. He is now married to a daughter of the Sultan of Zinder, and
+is established here in the confidence of his father-in-law. It appears,
+then, that even common Moorish sailors make their way in these black
+countries.
+
+The first person we visited was one of the viziers, called Mayaha, a
+native of Damagram, a place one day east, from whence the greater part
+of the population of Zinder is drawn. This personage was sufficiently
+polite. He gave me permission to see the interior of his house, and his
+harem. The harem was full of fine, handsome Haussa slaves, attending on
+his four wives; they were all polished, and apparently clean, lying
+about on the floors of the huts, and in the court-yards, in the most
+strenuous idleness--one cleaning, polishing, and decorating another. One
+was bolder than the rest, and beckoned me to come to her.
+
+This house of this vizier contained many huts of bee-hive shape; one or
+two were built of sun-dried earth, but all were small. Few carpets, or
+even mats, were seen: these people of Zinder are most dearly fond of
+squatting on the naked dust.
+
+Afterwards I visited the Grand Vizier, or Mustapha Gadalina (a title).
+This personage, a man of great age, was polite, but did not permit me to
+enter the interior of his house. We then went to see the
+Commander-in-chief--a funny fellow. He was very civil to us, and to all,
+joking with his soldiers, amidst whom he was squatting. These Zinder
+troops have no arms in their undress, and only wear a loose tobe, with
+bare heads. The General told us he would visit us in the morning.
+
+After a climb to the summit of one of the granite rocks of Zinder to
+have a view of the town, I went to see and hear the drummers hammering
+on their kangas. There were three of them, surrounded by a group of
+Zinder maidens. One fellow had two long drums, very narrow, on which he
+laboured with all his might. The maidens approached the musicians by
+twos, dancing or stepping forward, and retreating with great apparent
+modesty. Whilst I was looking at a couple, one of them ran up to me, and
+struck me lightly with her hand. For this attention I was obliged to
+give her a present of gour-nuts, which are equally current with the
+cowries on such occasions. The drum is the national music of the people
+of Zinder, and they hammer away at it from morning to night. They say
+that in the palace it never ceases all day, beginning at dawn. Perhaps
+it may be esteemed useful in supplying the place of silly conversation.
+
+Very few Tuaricks are to be seen in the streets of this city. They
+rarely show themselves, except on market-days, when they come from their
+houses in the suburbs. Little cordiality exists between them and the
+Binder people. They owe one another, like all neighbouring people, many
+grudges. I jocularly told the commander-in-chief to kill all the
+Tuaricks. He naively replied, "I would, but when I attack them they all
+run away!" I am informed by the Moors here the Tuaricks have a wholesome
+dread of the Sheikh, and are on bad terms with the Fullans. They are,
+however, for the most part, friendly with the ancient Kohlans, the
+people of Maradee and Gouber. This accounts for the fact that En-Noor
+always spoke in the most amiable way of these remaining kingdoms of
+Soudan paganism. The town of Zinder is inhabited chiefly by the blacks
+of the Bornouese province of Damagram, who, though speaking the same
+language, are not considered Bornouese. In fact, properly speaking, it
+is situated in that province. The Zinder folks are easily distinguished
+from the natives of Kuka, and those more eastern provinces, by a lighter
+complexion and the smaller breadth of their nostrils.
+
+Zinder has always enjoyed much liberty as a province, though it has
+fallen successively under the influence of Bornou and Haussa princes.
+Anciently it was ruled by the former; then it lapsed to the Haussa
+princes and the Fullans, and finally it was again recovered by Bornou.
+The present prince, Ibrahim, has been sultan twenty-five years. Under
+his rule a rebellion took place against the Sheikh, who removed him,
+made him prisoner, and promoted his brother to the governorship of the
+province. But this new prince also rebelled; upon which the Sheikh came
+with a large force a year ago, and restored the former governor,
+placing, however, several persons here as a check on his authority. I
+have already mentioned the influence of the Shereef of Morocco. But no
+people in the world detest central government so much as the Africans,
+and these rebellions occur yearly and monthly.
+
+The facts which have been mentioned to me connected with the last
+rebellion of Zinder, and its reduction by the Sheikh of Bornou, are
+interesting, as illustrative of the present condition of these
+out-of-the-way countries. The re-conquest proved to be no easy matter,
+and required three months' siege, and sixty thousand men, commanded by
+the Sheikh's best officers and the sultans of the neighbouring
+provinces. When the revolted people had notice of the approach of this
+force, they threw up a wall of earth round the city in the brief space
+of three days only. Even Africans can be energetic when compelled by
+necessity. The siege lasted three months, and many people were killed on
+either side.
+
+Before hostilities commenced the Sheikh sent for the brother of the
+deposed prince, whom he had placed in power at Zinder; but the answer
+was refusal. "If you want money," said the rebel chieftain, "here it is;
+if you want slaves, here they are;--but I will not come to Kuka."
+Ibrahim, the former and present sultan, had meanwhile gone to the
+capital, and covered himself with dust in the presence of the Sheikh,
+and obtained his pardon and the promise of his restoration to power. His
+brother knew this well, and, of course, would not go to the capital. It
+is surprising, however, that the rebellion could hold out so long
+against so large a force; the people of Zinder must be framed for war.
+The Tuaricks during the struggle stood by and looked on. The displaced
+brother is now at Kuka, having there obtained the pardon of the Sheikh.
+He fled to the Tuaricks after the capture of the town.
+
+There are several pretty shady trees scattered through the town of
+Zinder, planted mostly in the gardens of the grandees. The names of
+three of these are, in Bornouese, rimi, jaja, and ilbug.
+
+I have obtained some information on the slave-trade, which I here give
+in its crude shape. Slaves are classed as follows:--
+
+MALES.
+
+1st. Garzab: those who have a beard.
+ 2d. Morhag: those with beard beginning.
+ 3d. Sabaai: those without beard.
+4th. Sadasi: grown children.
+5th. Hhamasi, or children.
+
+
+FEMALES.
+
+Ajouza, old women, not classified.
+1st. Shamalia: those with the breasts hanging down.
+ 2d. Dabukia: those with the breasts plump.
+ 3d. Farkhah: those with little breasts.
+4th. Sadasia: girls, smaller.
+5th. Hhamasiah, or children.
+
+The best of the slaves now go to Niffee, to be there shipped for
+America; they are mostly males, of the class 2d, 3d, 4th, and are
+minutely examined before departure. From all reports, there is an
+immense traffic of slaves that way exchanged against American goods,
+which are driving out of the markets all the merchandise of the north.
+
+
+_Prices:_--I. MALES.
+
+1st. From 10,000 to 15,000 wadas.
+ 2d.      30,000 and under.
+ 3d.      35,000    "
+4th.      30,000    "
+5th.      20,000    "
+
+II. FEMALES.
+
+1st.  10,000 and under. (Ajouza.)
+ 2d.  80,000    "
+ 3d. 100,000    "
+4th.  40,000    "
+5th.  30,000    "
+6th.  20,000    "
+
+The above are the prices of Kanou; there is sometimes a difference of
+5,000 or 10,000 wadas. A remark suggested by this list of prices is,
+that the value of human merchandise is determined by its present
+adaptation for consumption. No allowance is made for capability of
+development, intellectual or physical. Slave-drivers and slave-holders
+believe as little in a future here as hereafter.
+
+I give another account of the prices of slaves at the principal markets
+in this part of Africa, and at Smyrna and Constantinople. A good male
+slave is sold, at
+
+Kanou, for 10 or 12 dollars.
+Zinder, the price varies little.
+Mourzuk, for 40 dollars.
+Tripoli, from 60 to 65 dollars.
+Smyrna, 90 to 100 dollars.
+Constantinople, 90 to 100 dollars.
+
+A good female slave is sold, at
+
+Kanou, for 32 dollars.
+Zinder, a little more, or the same.
+Mourzuk, 85 dollars.
+Tripoli, 100 dollars.
+Smyrna, 130 dollars.
+Constantinople, 130 dollars.
+
+This is merely to show the difference of prices at these various places
+of slave traffic, and so enable the reader to form some notion of the
+profits of the commerce.
+
+I am very sorry to hear of the iniquitous manner in which slaves are
+captured for the supply of the north at this present time. It appears
+that, now all these populations are Muslims, it is difficult to get up
+the war-cry of _Kafers!_--"Infidels!" What is then done? The sultan of a
+province foments a quarrel with a town or village belonging to himself,
+and then goes out and carries off all the people into slavery. Thus acts
+the present Sultan of Zinder, and so did his brother during his year of
+administration. To appease the Sheikh of Bornou they send him a portion
+of the spoil. Indeed, the Sheikh countenances the system, so detrimental
+to his interests as a sovereign, and so immoral in its character. The
+brother of the present sultan was accustomed to go out every month, and
+bring in razzias of slaves, particularly to Dura, a country which
+belongs half to the Sheikhs of the Fullans. The real Kerdi people are
+now very distant, and you must go many days' journey if you will catch
+genuine Kafer slaves.
+
+On Friday, Yusuf paid his respects to the Sultan at noon, being the
+Sunday of the Muslims, when visits are made by true believers to the
+princes. He found his highness surrounded by his court, in a cloud of
+dust, which the people raised by throwing it in handfuls upon their
+heads, and thus doing homage to their prince. Yusuf and some other Moors
+obstinately abstained from such a grovelling mode of "rendering to
+Caesar the things which are Caesar's," and contented themselves with
+saluting his highness in the Moorish fashion. Yusuf observed, "Our
+religion does not teach this servility." The natives salute their Sultan
+by the cry of "God give you victory!" (i.e. over your enemies.) In
+Soudanee this phrase is "_Allah shabaka nasara_;" and in Bornouese,
+"_Kabunam sherga!_"
+
+_18th._--I sent letters for Government and my wife _via_ Kuka, as
+caravans are expected to leave Bornou for Moursuk about this time. My
+rooms were full of visitors to-day. First came the commander-in-chief,
+Shroma. I showed him all my treasures, portable peepshow, kaleidoscope,
+&c. &c. He was marvellously pleased. I treated him also with sugar, but
+coffee he positively refused as too bitter. He brought with him some
+twenty of his troops and a chosen aide-de-camp. He is just the man for a
+negro commander, full of cunning and address, very active if necessary,
+and on familiar terms with his men, pleasing them by low fun and
+buffoonery. Afterwards came the sons of the Sultan, all of whom I
+treated with sugar and coffee: that is, as many as would venture to
+taste of it. Then followed a host of Fezzan merchants, with the son of
+the Kadi of Kuka--a very nice, pleasant young fellow, who writes pretty
+good Arabic. He is to make out for me the route from Zinder to Kuka.
+
+I afterwards went to the Sultan himself, to show him my treasures, viz.
+peepshows and kaleidoscope. These barbarians are nothing but great
+wilful children. I also took the compass. We entered the interior of the
+building, where we found a number of officers, courtiers and slaves,
+squatted together on the sand, chatting most familiarly on all subjects.
+The building is all made of mud, mixed with large grains of granite.
+They say all the buildings of Bornou are built in the same manner, and
+very few of stone, on account of the rain; for the stone, not being well
+cemented together, falls during the great rains of the tropics.
+
+After we had been kept waiting about half an hour his highness made his
+appearance, the courtiers and slaves throwing dust on their heads,
+prostrating themselves on the ground before him, crying, "God give you
+victory over your enemies!" Whilst the Sultan took his seat upon the
+raised mud-bench, the slaves held up two wrappers or barracans, to
+shield his highness from public view whilst he took his seat. All the
+floor of the apartment was covered with a dense mass of people, and
+amongst the number several Tuaricks, including the Sheikh Lousou, and
+Haj Abdoua, another distinguished Tuarick. Lousou is a tall thin man, of
+light complexion, with European features--a perfect Targhee. His manners
+were very mild, and indeed all this tribe are gentle enough here in a
+foreign country. The Sheikh shook me cordially by the hands. I then
+commenced business as showman to the prince and this mass of people. At
+first his highness was timid, and would not look through the glasses of
+the peepshows, but when the people began he followed, and acquired the
+knack of looking through in a very short time. My compass and watch and
+keys were then all examined, and produced great amusement. What pleased
+him much was the screw by which the compass was stopped. I was
+dreadfully frightened lest the watch should be broken as well as the
+compass, and indeed the former has received some damage: such machines
+should not be handled by these negro grandees.
+
+Whilst this examination was going on, his highness, as if he had little
+time to lose, continued to administer justice. Several cases were
+settled whilst the worthy Sultan was looking through the peepshow and
+kaleidoscope. Among others, a man came forward in great agitation, and
+cried, "O Sultan! my wife will not live with me, and has run away to her
+father. I will give you three bullocks if you will fetch her back and
+make her live with me!" The Sultan smiled, and observed only, "Hem, your
+wife won't live with you! Well, what can I do?" Another man came forward
+and cried, "O Sultan! I am a thief, but you must pardon me. I stole this
+mat because I was a poor man" (holding up the mat). "I restore the mat."
+His highness observed, "Leave it; I will see what can be done." A
+collection of stolen articles was restored also by another person. Then
+came a man more bold, and brought a present from a neighbouring village,
+consisting of two large bowls of ghaseb and a bundle of wood. The man
+made a great clamour, holding up the present. His highness looked at
+him, and said, "Good, good; put them down."
+
+I am told his highness is much feared by all the people of the
+provinces. He has the character of being impartial. But the way in which
+he carries out capital punishment is truly terrible, and beyond
+conception barbarous. He neither hangs nor beheads. This mode of
+punishment is too mild for him. No; he actually cuts open the chest, and
+rips out the heart! or else hangs up people by the heels, and so
+inflicts upon them a lingering death. I am astonished that the Sheikh of
+Bornou permits such barbarity, but imagine that the Sheikh is still
+afraid of his vassal, and shrinks from endeavouring to deprive him of
+this awful power. Here, then, we have a specimen of the negro character,
+with all its contradictions; soft and effeminate in its ordinary moods;
+cheerful, and pleasant, and simple, to appearance; but capable of
+acting, as it were without transition, the most terrible deeds of
+atrocity. Say what you will of the barbarism of the Tuaricks, such a
+mode of inflicting capital punishment is unknown amongst them. I took
+leave of his highness, promising to come again another day and bring
+other things.
+
+This evening we were disturbed by the cries of the hyaena; a large one
+had come down upon the calves belonging to a drove of bullocks, and
+carried off one as big as itself. The brute seizes its prey by the
+throat, and so prevents the animal from giving intelligence to its
+pursuers. The place of execution is near my house, and when the Sultan
+executes any criminal the body is left unburied. At such times, troops
+of hyaenas, old and young, come down in the night, from the rocks and
+open country, and devour the body in a few minutes. The jackal does not
+visit this place, but is found in the open country. There are also many
+lions on the road between this and Kuka.
+
+A very simple mode of salutation is prevalent here in Zinder, said to be
+the custom of Wadai--that of merely clapping the palms of the hand
+together; the hand being held forward flat, not edge-ways.
+
+Gurasu is an interesting Tuarick territory, three days' journey
+north-east from Zinder, and two days from Minyo. This country consists
+of a number of small villages, scattered upon the rocks, or mountains.
+The inhabitants are especially those banditti who, from time to time,
+plunder the caravans on the route from Bornou to Mourzuk. Gurasu is
+seven days from Kanem, and Kanem is three days from the Bornou route.
+Kanem is mostly a desert country, and has now only a few inhabitants.
+
+Gurasu and Damerghou are the only Tuarick countries adjoining the
+provinces of the Sheikh of Bornou, and Gurasu is the last country east
+in this part of Africa. There is but very slight communication between
+it and Zinder; and little is known of the people, except that they are
+Tuaricks.
+
+_19th._--I again entertained visitors, who are still numerous, of all
+classes; and also paid a visit to the Shereef, and took with me the
+kaleidoscope, as he expressed a wish to see its revolving glowing
+beauties.
+
+Zinder is full of half-crazy fighis, who can just write the Arabic
+alphabet. They go about the streets begging piteously, with a calabash
+inkstand and reed-pen in their hands. I have been pestered with two or
+three every day since I came here. They also wander through the country
+parts of Damerghou. Bornou is the nursery of these silly pedagogues, in
+whom learning and madness are most cordially united; but, as I have
+already mentioned, it sends out a few instructed ones to redeem the
+reputation of these ignoramuses.
+
+In the afternoon I went to see the place of execution, and found it
+covered with human bones, the leavings of the hyaenas, whose dens are
+close by. Proceeding a little further I came to the Tree of Death! a
+lonely tree springing out of the rocks, some forty or fifty feet in
+height, and of the species called here _kanisa_. My guide would not
+approach it very near, for he assured me that if any person went under
+its boughs, there must instantly come an order from the Sultan to put
+him to death, or hang him heels upwards upon its branches. "Don't you
+see the place is swept clean underneath its boughs? This is done every
+day, and by the executioner alone: no other person dare go there, for if
+he do he must die!" I certainly began to feel sick myself at the recital
+of various horrors perpetrated at this place by the executioner, and
+don't know whether, if any one had offered me some great reward, I would
+have ventured to place my feet upon this accursed spot of mother earth.
+Never in my life did I feel so sick at heart--so revolted at man's
+crimes and cruelties. The tree itself was a true picture of death--a
+tree of dark, impenetrable foliage, with a great head, or upper part
+larger than the lower one, and this head crowned with fifty filthy
+vultures, the ministers of the executioner, which eat the bodies of the
+criminals! The number of executions here performed is very great--some
+two or three hundred in a year. Since we have been here a man has been
+butchered in the night, scarcely a hundred yards from my house; so that
+I am in a pleasant neighbourhood, what with the executions and what with
+the hyaenas. The people pretend that for a small offence the Sultan
+inflicts capital punishments: for example, merely speaking bad language.
+
+Turning from these disagreeable scenes, we went to see the dens of the
+hyaenas, which are beneath the rocks, extending far under ground. Here
+we saw bones and dung enough. The scavengers of Zinder are, therefore,
+the vultures and hyaenas: the former wing the air and dart on their prey
+by day, and the latter prowl the streets by night.
+
+In the evening we refreshed our fancies by witnessing the kanga, or
+drums beating to the dances of the maidens of Zinder. It is always the
+same thing, two or three fellows thumping upon their drums, dancing
+round them occasionally themselves, and the maidens approaching these
+drummers with timid steps. To-night they had a sort of hopping-dance, on
+one leg, keeping time to the beating of the drums. These coy maidens
+soon approached, or rather ran at me, and touched me with the hand; this
+done, they claim the right of a present. It is considered a favour to be
+so distinguished.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+
+Brother of the Sultan--Trade of Zinder--Prices--The Sarkee drinks
+Rum--Five Cities--Houses of Zinder--Female Toilette--Another Tree of
+Death--Paganism--Severity of the Sultan--Lemons--Barth and
+Overweg--Fire--Brother of the Sarkee--Daura--Shonshona--Lousou--Slaves
+in Irons--Reported Razzia--Talk with the Shereef--Humble
+Manners--Applications for Medicines--Towns and Villages of Zinder--The
+great Drum--Dyers--Tuarick Visits--Rationale of Razzias--Slaves--"Like
+Prince like People"--French in Algiers--The Market--Old Slave--Infamous
+System--Plan of the great Razzia.
+
+
+_Jan. 20th._--I received visits as usual, and one from a younger brother
+of the Sultan, whom I treated with coffee; and I also gave him a cotton
+handkerchief and a ring, so that he went away highly satisfied. He had a
+numerous train, all of whom had a peep at the show and a bit of sugar.
+This brother of the Sultan is a pleasant-looking fellow, a very
+different character from the man in power. He asked for saffron to
+colour charms with; but I had none to give him.
+
+Those who expect to find Zinder a great commercial depot will be much
+disappointed. The principal merchants here are the Sheikhs En-Noor and
+Lousou, and the other Tuarick of Asben, whom I have mentioned, called
+Haj Abdoua. Of Zinder merchants there are but two of consequence, the
+Morocco Shereef, Konchai, and Haj Amurmur, a Tibboo. The latter is
+always resident; but Abd-Effeit, or Shereef Konchai, goes abroad and
+trades. Both these are foreigners. There are, besides, a number of small
+traders, Tibboos and Fezzanees, who drive a few hard bargains with the
+Governor. At the present moment his highness has no money. All the
+specie is quickly carried off to Kuka. The Tuaricks have the goods and
+the money, and often make their own prices; but as they always demand
+ready cash, are obliged to wait long before they can dispose of their
+goods. Burnouses alone bring a great profit; for these are sold to
+sultans, who require a credit of several months. I am afraid I shall
+have to give a very poor account of the commerce of this portion of
+Africa, with reference to its being profitable to Europeans. The greater
+part of the goods in Kanou are cheaper than those found in the markets
+of Fezzan, or even Tripoli. The only way in which this commerce pays the
+Moorish merchants is by the purchase of slaves; and this, from casual
+circumstances _en route_, frequently turns out a loss. All the traders
+found on this road are mostly poor fellows, with small capitals: there
+is no equal to Waldee.
+
+Here is a statement of the prices of provisions in the market of
+Zinder:--
+
+An ox, 10,000 wadas (for riding).
+
+A cow, for food, 8000.
+
+(N.B. Cows only are eaten, bullocks being used for riding and carrying
+burdens.)
+
+A sheep of the first quality, 1500 wadas.
+
+A goat of the first quality, 1000.
+
+A good fowl, 100.
+
+A horse (of the best kind and condition), 1,000,000.[15]
+
+An ass: he, 8000 wadas; she, 6000 wadas.
+
+A zekka of ghaseb: large, 10 wadas; small, 6 wadas.
+
+(N.B. When there is but little rain, a zekka of ghaseb consists only of
+two handfuls.)
+
+A pound of samen, 40 wadas.
+
+A pound of honey, 60 wadas.
+
+A zekka of wheat, or one handful, 10 wadas.
+
+A zekka of rice, or about six handfuls, is 20 wadas.
+
+A canto of salt, of the weight of about a quarter of a cantar, is now
+sold for 1200, because the salt-caravan has just arrived; but after two
+or three months it will fetch 2500 wadas.
+
+ [15] 83_l._ 6_s._ The price mentioned in a former page, viz.
+      1000,000 wadas is evidently erroneous.--ED.
+
+His highness the Sultan expressed the most ardent desire to see and make
+himself acquainted with the rum, and other strong drinks of the
+Christians, having heard from his son-in-law and interpreter, the little
+Shereef, that I had a supply of these liquors with me. After resisting
+some time, I delivered up to his highness half a bottle of mastic, with
+which retiring to his innermost chamber, and taking with him his
+son-in-law, he made himself very merry; so much so, that he was unable
+to make his appearance in public or justice-hall all this day.
+
+The immediate territories of Bornou contain five large and important
+capitals, viz. Zinder, which belongs to Haj Beshir, the prime minister.
+
+Mashena, belonging to Mala Ibrahim, second minister.
+
+Minyo, belonging to Abd-Er-Rahman, brother of the Sheikh.
+
+Yumbi, belonging to the mother of the Sultan.
+
+These capitals are the centres of large populations and provinces.
+
+The taxes are appropriated by the various personages to whom they are
+given by the Sheikh, but these personages are expected to give up to his
+highness the greater part of the funds which they derive from them.
+
+_21st._--I made various routes, and got a statement of the principal
+articles of commerce, as current in Zinder and Kanou, Mourzuk and
+Tripoli. I repeat, there is no chance for an English merchant in this
+part of Africa.
+
+The houses of Zinder are mostly built of double matting, but a good
+number have mud walls and thatched roofs. Others are all built of mud.
+There are no nice mosques with minarets. The residence of the Sultan is
+a fort of mud, with walls of some height; it overlooks all the other
+buildings. The Shereef Kebir has also a mud house, with walls of some
+height. There are two principal streets, running from the south to the
+north; one terminating at the castle of the Governor, and the other in
+the market. These are of some width, there being space for a dozen
+camels to pass abreast. There are, besides, many little squares before
+the houses of the grandees, where the people lounge: the streets are
+always full of idle people.
+
+Instead of _suak_, the women used here the calix of a flower, called
+_furai_, for staining their teeth with a deep amber colour. It is the
+fashion for ladies to dress their hair in solid knots, two of which fall
+over the temples, one over the ear, and the other at the back of the
+head. Some of the women have hair tolerably long. I noticed to-day the
+shonshonah of Daura. It consists of two thick cuts, forming an angle at
+the corner of the mouth, with a few small ones on the temples.
+
+I went to see another Tree of Death, where his highness slaughters
+criminals in the same way as mentioned under the other tree. The space
+beneath the boughs is also swept clean. This tree is more spreading, and
+of another sort; it is crowned with the filthy vultures, which roost day
+and night in considerable numbers on its upper branches. Yusuf tells me
+the history of these trees, when the inhabitants were pagans. It was
+under them that the people sacrificed their oxen and sheep to the deity,
+who was supposed to reside in these trees. Scarcely a generation has
+elapsed since this was the case, so that the people may well dread to
+venture where, in the time of old men yet living, sacrifices, some
+perhaps human, were offered up.
+
+The Sheikh is obliged to keep a tight hand over the inhabitants of
+Zinder, to prevent them from lapsing into paganism. His father made them
+Muslims, and he holds them to the profession of Islamism.
+
+No news from Tesaoua respecting the four persons who were sent to bring
+Drs. Barth and Overweg first to Bornou, before they went to Soudan. I
+have had several patients, but ophthalmia does not prevail here as in
+Damerghou.
+
+A constant succession of visitors troubled me all day long. Another son
+of the Sultan came this morning--quite a young man--and a dozen of boys
+from the palace, some sons of the Sultan, and others of his ministers. I
+gave them all a little piece of white sugar, and sent them off. This is
+the cheapest present.
+
+I am told that all the Tuaricks are dreadfully afraid of the Sultan of
+Zinder, for whenever his highness catches an offender, let him be of
+what tribe of Tuaricks he may, he cuts off his head with as much
+unconcern as a poulterer of Leadenhall market does that of a goose.
+
+I hear now that, since the dispersion of the Walad Suleiman, the route
+of Bornou, from Kuka to the Tibboos, is quite secure.
+
+Some lemons have been brought to me, equal in flavour, though small, to
+those of the north coast. In Soudan they are marvellously cheap; ten are
+sold at Kanou for the fiftieth part of a penny, viz. one wada; for the
+same single wada forty can be had at Kashna. There are forests of
+lemon-trees in Soudan.
+
+The news has arrived from the salt-caravan, that Barth says that he will
+not return even if they threaten to cut his throat. En-Noor is at
+Tesaoua, and says they should return; but the salt-caravan is distant
+from him, and the communication between the two places is difficult.--I
+had scarcely written these words when the four people sent to bring back
+Drs. Barth and Overweg returned without them, and brought letters from
+my colleagues, each one stating that he should continue his journey as
+previously determined. Ferajee, one of the messengers, pretends that
+En-Noor is going with Overweg to Maradee; which is very unlikely. Dr.
+Barth seems very angry, but his comrade takes matters more easily.
+
+The Shereef Kebir is said to be the only person who has money in Zinder.
+This man monopolises all the power and all the money. I do not know how
+long this will last, but I should think it will soon make both the
+Sultan and the people of Zinder disaffected. As it is, all the merchants
+of Zinder are foreigners, and so have the disposal of all the goods most
+coveted by the blacks, who have only the ghaseb and the cattle.
+
+_22d._--The morning is hazy and mild, the thermometer standing at 57 deg..
+
+A fire broke out close to us early this morning, and two or three huts
+were immediately consumed. However, the people quenched the flames in a
+very short time. I wonder half the town is not burnt down every now and
+then. Visitors pour in upon me as soon as I am up and dressed; and some
+patients likewise.
+
+The brother of the present Sarkee of Zinder, who ruled a year in Zinder,
+is called Tanimu. He has a great military reputation, and is a brave
+man. During his administration he razzied no less than thirty countries.
+Daura, or Dura, was the principal theatre of his exploits. This Daura is
+a country consisting of about a thousand towns and villages; four
+hundred belonging to the Fullans, and six hundred to the Sheikh of
+Bornou. The Fullanee Sultan is called Mohammed Bello, and he of the
+Sheikh, Sofo Lukudi. The nearest place in Daura is not more than one day
+S.W. of Zinder. The people of the country are remarkably expert in the
+use of the bow and arrow; and their arrows are very strong, piercing
+through, as the people say, _three_ boxes, and afterwards killing a man.
+The wound of these arrows is fatal, the flesh of the smitten part rising
+up immediately into an enormous swelling. The brother of the present
+Sarkee brought in hundreds of slaves from Daura, the people at the same
+time having risen against the authority of the Sheikh.
+
+The blacks of Kanou--not the Fullans--do not scarify their faces like
+their neighbours. The form of the shonshona of Zinder and its provinces
+is four cuts on each side the cheek, but not drawn very near the corner
+of the mouth; that is, rather towards the ears. In Tumbi and Gumel,
+provinces of Bornou, they draw four on the left side of the cheek and
+five on the right side; the cuts not drawn very near either the corner
+of the mouth or the ears. Maradee and Kashna have six cuts on each side
+of the cheek, drawn from the top of the ears down to the corner of the
+mouth. Gouber has four small cuts close to the corner of the mouth. The
+people of the Sheikh of Bornou have two small cuts drawn down the face,
+under each eyelid, and one in the forehead, between the eyes. Even Mekka
+has its shonshona. One of the shereefs here in Zinder, who was born in
+that holy city, has three small cuts on each side his face, drawn down
+the fleshy part of the cheek. It is only in Mekka that the shonshona is
+seen. The other countries of Arabia do not use this disfigurement.[16]
+
+ [16] Many Egyptians, men and women, practise tattooing; and if I
+      mistake not, I have seen evidences of the existence of the
+      practice mentioned in the text in some parts of Egypt.--ED.
+
+The Sheikh Lousou sent his slave to salute me on his part. They say,
+that had we been committed to his care, he would not have fleeced us
+like En-Noor. But I almost question if he would have been strong enough
+to protect us. I observe, again, that all the Tuaricks are well behaved
+in Zinder, and have a wholesome dread of the Sheikh.
+
+Many of the domestic slaves in Zinder are constantly ironed, for fear
+they should run away to the neighbouring towns and villages. The poor
+people live just like convicts. It is only when they are taken to Kuka,
+or to a great distance, that their irons are struck off.
+
+The report is now current in Zinder, that the Sarkee is going, in the
+course of seven or eight days, to razzia some neighbouring place in the
+direction of Daura. They say, even, that he will not scruple to razzia
+some of the villages of Meria if necessary; that is to say, a part of
+the province of Zinder. My informants observed merely, "Oh, he must have
+slaves to pay his debts; and as the largest fish eat the little fish, so
+the great people eat the small people." Thus the protection of Islamism
+is now come to nothing, and the cry is,--"To the razzia!" without
+mentioning even the name of Kafer or Kerdi. In the end this will retard
+the progress of Mahommedanism; for the blacks see that it is now no
+protection for them against their more powerful neighbours and their
+periodical razzias.
+
+I visited several personages this afternoon; first, the Shereef Kebir,
+with whom I ate some broiled fish brought from a neighbouring lake, and
+some fine Bilma dates, soaked in milk. I asked him how it was that the
+Sheikh committed to the governors or sultans of the provinces the awful
+power of life and death. "Oh," replied he, "the Sheikh has given them
+this power that he might not be bothered with their reports about
+criminals. It is far better to finish quick with these people." Where
+there are periodical razzias the sacredness of human life is unknown,
+and the Shereef has been, besides, many years in the camp of
+Abd-el-Kader, where a good deal of sanguinary work was carried on. He
+thought it, therefore, quite right that the Sheikh should not fatigue
+his sovereign conscience by deciding on the lives of criminals and other
+suspected persons, and that the sooner they were hung or slaughtered the
+better.
+
+From the Shereef I passed on to the brother of the Sultan, a young man
+of mild manners. I entered the inner part of the house, where were the
+women. Verily the Zinder people have a strange love of dust, dirt, and
+bare mud walls. In the two or three beehive huts which I explored, there
+was not a single article of furniture, nor a mat to lie down upon. The
+brother of the Sultan was sitting by his sister, and both on the dust of
+the ground, without a mat. I am told, however, that they sleep on mats
+and skins, which are, indeed, cheap enough; two or three pence, or two
+or three hundred wadas, would purchase a good one. The sister of the
+Sultan was coloured well with indigo, the dark blue of which replaces
+the yellow ochre of the ladies of fashion in Aheer. This Zinder lady had
+also the end of the tufts of her hair--I cannot call them curls--formed
+into clayey sticks of macerated indigo. For the rest, she had little
+clothing, her arms and bust being quite bare. All the other ladies with
+her were coloured in like fashion, and had their hair dressed in a
+similar manner.
+
+Afterwards I visited an old Tripoline Mamluke, who has been up here
+twenty-two long years. He came alone, and has now a household of
+twenty-eight persons, including wives, children, and slaves. He is
+called Mohammed El-Wardi, knew Dr. Oudney, and even mentioned his name,
+recollecting it after so many years. He knew also the other travellers.
+Some of his family are in Kuka.
+
+Various applications are made me for remedies to avert certain evils,
+and one man applied for a means to make him sell his goods quick: this
+was a Tibboo trader.
+
+It would appear that some of the routes from Zinder to neighbouring
+places are not very safe; that from this place to Kanou, even, is
+somewhat dangerous for small parties, there being woods on the road, in
+which lurk banditti, who lie in wait for unprotected caravans. With good
+travelling, Kanou is only eight or ten days from Zinder, and Kashna four
+or five. It is not easy to get the route here by hours, for the people
+are ignorant of this way of reckoning the routes. By days, something may
+be done.
+
+The Moorish merchants resident here pretend that the territory of Zinder
+contains no less than two thousand _belad_, or inhabited spots, towns,
+villages, and hamlets, and some of these are large towns--as large, or
+larger, than Zinder. Damagram is a populous place, more so than Zinder;
+but the whole of the province of Zinder has this name, the people being
+all Damagrama. The town of Damagram was once the capital of the
+province. The large towns are:--
+
+Damagram, one day and a-half south-east.
+Dakusa, five hours south.
+Termeni, three hours south.
+Washa, two days and a-half west.
+Goshi, two days east.
+Bidmuni, one day east.
+Andera, one day east.
+Jegana, one day south.
+Jermo, one day south.
+Guria, one-half day west.
+Meria, six hours south-east.
+Konchai, one day and a-half west.
+Gorgahn, one-half hour.
+Mageria, two days south-west.
+Fatram, two days south.
+Dalladi, six hours north.
+
+All these are towns, some larger than Zinder.
+
+I expect to see the great drum brought here, and to hear it beaten. It
+has led the people of Zinder to the razzia during the time of twelve
+sultans. The drummer, when he beats the drum in leading on the people to
+the razzia, repeats the perpetual chorus of _Jatau chi geri_--"The red
+(Sultan) eats up the country." He is afraid to mention the name of the
+Sultan, and so repeats the word red, as distinguishing royalty; but
+whether in the same way as purple distinguished the Roman emperors, or
+because kings delight in blood, does not appear.
+
+I went to see the process of indigo dyeing. The dyers bore circular pits
+of about fifteen or twenty feet deep, and three feet in diameter, in
+which they throw the things to be dyed, and leave them there. The pits
+are full of the dye, produced by the leaves and the seed of the plant
+called _nila_, sodden in water. They dye tobes and raw cotton, and
+cotton twist; the work is carried on in the open air. About thirty
+people were employed at the pits which I saw. They also prepare indigo
+in a better way than what I saw at these pits.
+
+_23d._--I have not quite done with the Tuaricks, and had many visitors
+of that tribe to-day; amongst the rest, our old friends and robbers,
+Ferajee and Deedee. I told Ferajee I had my boxes full of gold and
+silver, and asked him to buy. He replied, "Ah, el-Consul did not say so
+in Asben; he said _babo_ (there is none)!" At this, all our visitors
+burst out in a roaring laugh. I rejoined, "Oh, no, Ferajee; because I
+was then amongst thieves and robbers." (Continued laughter.) I went to
+see the souk;--everybody was very civil;--no calling Kafer!--Tuaricks
+all as still as mice.
+
+I called upon the Shereef Kebir, and drank with him tea and coffee,
+which he makes in Magrabi fashion, putting the sugar in the tea-pot. I
+observed, "How is this? I hear the Sultan is going soon on a razzia."
+Somewhat disconcerted, he replied, _Allah yalem!_--"God teaches!" After
+some time, he explained that the Sheikh left his vassals great liberty
+in this matter; that the Sultan of Zinder was permitted to go to Daura
+and eat up the Kohlans, but not the Fullans, between whom and the Sheikh
+there was peace: that is to say, the Fullans were not to be made slaves,
+but the Kohlan subjects of the Fullans might be captured. The Sheikh was
+not friendly to Maradee, and wished the Sultan of Zinder to attack that
+country; but the Sarkee was a friend of Maradee, and would not, &c. &c.
+So it is quite clear these Sarkees, or at any rate the one in Zinder,
+have great latitude of action. After hesitating still more about these
+razzias, the Shereef said, "Oh, you see the strong devour the weak;
+there are no regular governments here."
+
+In the souk to-day, it was proved beyond all doubt that the Zinder
+people sell themselves into foreign slavery. Many of the slaves for sale
+had the Zinder scarified marks on their faces. There were also specimens
+from Maradee. Slaves are sent from Zinder to Niffee. Indeed, it now
+appears that all this part of Africa is put under contribution to supply
+the South American market with slaves.
+
+Zinder is considered within the circle of Soudan, and not to be Bornou,
+but only a Bornouese province. The Sheikh has in this province several
+Tuarick subjects, i.e. Tuaricks settled in the Zinder provinces.
+
+The souk to-day was full of people, but goods of value were wanting.
+Indeed, Zinder is now a poor place. Only the foreigners have any at
+their command. The Sarkee is at this moment desperately poor, and is
+going on this approaching razzia to raise money to satisfy his
+creditors. Verily, this _is_ a "new way to pay old debts."
+
+I heard a curious explanation of the reason why the people of Zinder do
+not use mats or skins to lie down upon in the daytime. It is said they
+are afraid, because the Sarkee does not use them, and they must not
+display a luxurious taste not practised by their prince. This is the
+explanation of the Shereef and the little court of Arabs and Moors by
+which he is surrounded. "Like people like prince" is a proverb which I
+think I have heard.
+
+The Shereef told me this morning that he had made war with France, in
+Algeria, fourteen years, and he had been a prisoner of the French seven
+months. He said the French were people without religion, or faith in
+their words and promises, and could not be trusted. He showed me his
+French passport. However, he seems to have soon forgotten his troubles
+in Algeria, and is quiet now. He writes well, and has received a good
+education. His country is one day east of Tetuan, in the Rif mountains.
+He is likely to be very useful to the Sheikh in Zinder.
+
+I visited the souk again in the evening, and made a few small purchases
+of curiosities; but there are very few things to be got in this market,
+and those mostly come from Kanou. What things are made here are of the
+rudest manufacture.
+
+I passed the slave-market, and was greatly shocked to see a poor old
+woman for sale amongst the rest of human beings. She was offered for six
+thousand wadas, about ten shillings in English money. It is quite
+impossible to conjecture of what use such a poor old creature can be.
+The Shereef Kebir made a present of a little boy to Said of Haj Beshir
+this evening. The poor little fellow looked very pitiful. He was stolen
+from Daura. He has only one cheek marked with the shonshona, because his
+mother lost all the children which she bare before him; and the custom
+is, when a mother thus loses her children, to scarify only one cheek.
+
+The mode of supplying the slave-markets of the north and south is truly
+nefarious, and perhaps surpasses all the wickedness of the Tuaricks. The
+Sarkee of Zinder wants gour-nuts, and has no money to purchase them; he
+sends his servants or officers to a neighbouring village, and they steal
+in open day two or three families of people, and bring them to the
+Sarkee. These poor wretches are immediately exchanged for the gour-nuts.
+A boy steals some trifling articles--a few needles; he is forthwith sold
+in the souk; and not only he, but "if the Sarkee wants money," his
+father and mother, brothers and sisters: and "if the Sarkee is very much
+pressed for money," his familiars search for the brothers of the father,
+and all their relations. Indeed, crime is a lucrative source of supply
+for the prince, and what his vengeance spares from the executioner is
+sold into foreign slavery.
+
+In the approaching razzia, the Sarkee is expected to take the common
+route of Daura, and carry off the villagers subjected to the Sheikh;
+for, contrary to the opinion of the Shereef Kebir, the Sarkee will not
+attack the Kohlans, who are the subjects of the Fullan, but the _bona
+fide_ subjects of the Sheikh. He will probably bring back one thousand
+slaves or captives. He will send two hundred to the Sheikh, with such a
+message as this:--"I have eaten up the Kafers of Daura; here is your
+offering of two hundred Kafers." Should the Sheikh receive a
+remonstrance from the Bornou governor of Daura, that the Sarkee of
+Zinder has come upon him and carried off Muslims, his subjects, he will
+shut his ears. In all these razzias the lesser chiefs act an important
+part, and each gets a share. A chief who fights under the Sarkee
+captures fifty slaves, and gives up to the Sarkee twenty-five or thirty,
+keeping the rest for himself and people.
+
+If a single undistinguished man captures five, the Sarkee gets two of
+the five; another captures two, the Sarkee gets one, and the captor one.
+So all have a common interest in these nefarious razzias, and all start
+off with the utmost glee to capture their neighbours, their brethren,
+and to sell them into bondage. The Sarkee of Zinder will take with him
+about five thousand cavalry and thirty thousand foot (bowmen), drawn
+from these portions of the provinces against which the razzia is not now
+directed.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV.
+
+Family of the Sarkee--Converted Jew--Hard Dealings--How to get rid of a
+Wife--Route to Tesaoua--Influence of Slavery--Prices of Aloes and
+Silk--Medicine for a Merchant--Departure of the Sarkee for the
+Razzia--Encampment--Mode of Fighting--Produce of Razzias--Story of the
+Tibboo--Sheikh Lousou--Gumel--Superstitions--Matting--Visit
+of Ladies--The Jew--Incendiaries--Hazna--Legend of Zinder
+Well--Kohul--Cousin of the Sheikh--Female Sheikh--State of the
+Country--Salutations.
+
+
+_Jan. 24th._--The thermometer stood last night at 74 deg. after dark. This
+morning it is, as usual, about 56 deg.. The weather is still hazy; but the
+town is remarkably healthy, and there are very few cases of fever at the
+present time. Zinder, by the people, is said to be always cool.
+
+His highness the Sarkee of Zinder is a prince of true African and
+Asiatic calibre. He has three hundred wives, one hundred sons, and fifty
+daughters; but his women are not prisoners in a harem. His wives and
+daughters are seen about the streets walking alone, and the daughters
+are given in marriage to the grandees of the court. His wives, likewise,
+are often found with paramours outside the palace.
+
+I went to see a Jew who has been some time resident in Zinder. This Jew
+is one of those three who came to Mourzuk with Abd-el-Galeel, and after
+his death turned Muslims, and came up to Soudan and Bornou. He is called
+Ibrahim. The one now in Tesaoua, and who is going with Overweg to
+Maradee, is Mousa; and the other is called Isaac. The Moors put no faith
+in the conversion of these Jews: they say, "These men are always Jews in
+their hearts; they turned Muslims on speculation." It is certain that
+they got handsome presents at Mourzuk from the credulous believers. Of
+others, the Moors say they became Muslims to prevent the Tuaricks from
+killing them. I asked Ibrahim how he passed the Tuarick countries, and
+was informed that the Ghatees treated him the worst. They swore he was
+not a Muslim, but still a Jew, and demanded one hundred dollars from him
+to pass. He got off with fifty; whilst to the Aheer people he paid about
+twenty dollars. A Christian or a Jew must never think he will be able to
+save his money, or, much less, his credit, by apostatising, for these
+Tuaricks will always swear his conversion is sham, however real it may
+be. He will always have to pay the same money, whether he keep his
+religion or sell it for the chance of saving his worthless gold and
+silver.
+
+All these Jews, however, seem to have thriven in their apostasy. Ibrahim
+of Zinder is worth about six or seven thousand dollars, and, besides
+being a working-jeweller, is a merchant. I tried to exchange some of my
+imitation rings for his silver ones, but it was useless. He had the
+conscience to demand thirty of my nicely-made rings for one of his
+trumpery, ill-made silver ones--silver with a very bad alloy. Then he
+wanted a pretty cotton-print handkerchief for a miserable silver bead.
+With such people it is impossible to strike a bargain. These Barbary
+Jews are the hardest and most tricky dealers in the world. Ibrahim has
+been laid up with a bad leg for five months, and intends going to Kuka
+when he gets better. He wanted me to sell him some mastic, but I
+refused. He said he wished to have one jolly day, but the fellow is
+almost a skeleton with his ulcerous leg.
+
+The Shereef Saghir is quite a character. He has been over the greater
+part of the world, and along the Indian coast--has seen the English in
+India, and the Christians in many ways and manners; and so is free from
+all sort of fanaticism. He wants now to return with me to England. He
+says--Soudan is _batal_ (worthless), and that if he take his wife, the
+daughter of the Sarkee of Zinder, with him to the north coast, he will
+sell her, and so finish his connexion with the negroes! I forgot to
+mention that Ibrahim has brought with him a Muslim wife from Mourzuk,
+and has now two or three black wives, and several children.
+
+From the courier who came from Dr. Overweg I have obtained the following
+account of the route from Zinder to Tesaoua:
+
+From Zinder direct west to Tus, 1 hour; village: to Termini, 5 hours;
+village: to Dambidda, 1 hour; a large village: to Babul, 5 hours;
+village: to Gumda, 4 hours; village: to Kurnaua, 4 hours; village: to
+Garagumsa, 5 hours; village: to Shabari, 7 hours; village: to Maizirgi,
+1 hour; large village: to Tesaoua, 5 hours.
+
+Along this route there is abundance of herbage and trees, but no running
+water or wadys. There are wells of great depth. The distances between
+the various villages being in all, when summed up, thirty-eight hours,
+we must consider the whole length of the route three long and four short
+days' journey, as the caravans generally arrive on the fourth day.
+
+Slavery is the curse of all these countries. My Soudan servant, Amankee,
+would not come with me to Zinder, on account of his longing desire to
+see his mother and brother and sisters; and yet, although these feelings
+are deep in the bosoms of all the blacks, they can see their neighbours
+torn away from their houses and carried off in irons with the greatest
+indifference. The slaves of the Sarkee of Zinder are double-ironed, like
+convicts, and in this condition jump through the streets, for they
+cannot walk. The backs of these poor slaves are all ulcerated with the
+strokes of the whip.
+
+I received a visit this morning from the Jew Ibrahim. After a good deal
+of wrangling I exchanged three handkerchiefs for three beads of silver,
+but one of the beads I made him a present of. I was much surprised to
+hear from him that the aloe wood, _aoud el-Komari_, sold in Bornou for
+its equal weight in silver. He also stated that twelve rubtas of raw
+silk sold for one real in Mourzuk and Zinder, whilst fifteen could be
+purchased in Kauou for the same money. What will become of the goods of
+the Germans?
+
+En-Noor's wife, Fatia, sent this morning for medicine to enable her to
+bring forth a child. I maliciously recommended to her a younger husband.
+A Tibboo has continued to pester me to death for a medicine to make him
+profit in his mercantile transactions. To get rid of him, being in a
+merry mood, I scribbled over a piece of paper, and he swallowed it. A
+great number of people come for medicines who are not sick. I generally
+content myself with a bare refusal, explaining that there is no
+necessity; but there is nothing so difficult as to convince a man that
+he is well when once he has persuaded himself of the contrary.
+
+The Sarkee went out this morning to his razzia and does not return for
+some days, so I shall not be able to take leave of his highness. The
+gossips persist in saying that he is dreadfully in want of money, and
+must go out to bring in some slaves to pay his debts. He was attended by
+about one thousand cavalry, and a good number of maharees. He is gone
+southwards. They report that he is indeed gone to Daura, but nothing is
+known positively as to whether he will capture the Sheikh's subjects or
+those of the Fellatahs. The Sarkee, on a former occasion, captured a
+great many people belonging to Germal, one of the Sheikh's provinces,
+and an order was forthwith sent to him to restore them to their homes
+and lands. He was compelled to comply. Besides slaves, the Sarkee will
+bring in bullocks and horses; but the sheep taken are eaten by the
+troops of the razzia. His highness is expected to gather an army of 2000
+horse, and 10,000 on foot, besides camels for provisions and water, when
+completed. The plan and route of the expedition are kept a profound
+secret, so that the army will fall upon the unsuspecting population by
+surprise.
+
+After about three or four hours' ride the Sarkee usually encamps, and a
+souk, or market, is opened at the camp for provisions. "There are no
+women with the _yaki_ (or army of razzia), the men cook and do all the
+work," says my informant. At night the Sultan calls round him his chosen
+troops, and distributes gour-nuts, and makes presents of provisions. He
+then sleeps a few hours, and probably starts at midnight, or as soon as
+the moon rises. A slave, a soldier of the Sarkee, who has been to a
+hundred razzias, tells me, that three years ago this Sarkee went to
+attack him of Daura in his capital. On arriving before the town the army
+of Zinder set fire to all the ghaseb stubble and the garden-trees around
+it. This done, they commenced a regular battle with the besieged. The
+fight continued till night, when the Sarkee of Daura fled. The Zinder
+people carried off a large booty: the share of the Sultan alone was nine
+hundred.
+
+This freebooting prince does not fight himself, but sits down at a
+distance from his troops and overlooks their conduct and manoeuvres; his
+generals command and lead on the attack, whilst a body-guard surrounds
+the sacred person of the monarch. On the occasion referred to, this
+body-guard was covered with mattrass-stuffing to shield off the terrible
+arrows of the Daura people. The greater part of the troops of Zinder
+have only a spear; a few have shields and swords, but none have muskets.
+All the Daura people have bows and arrows. There are numbers of petty
+traders here waiting for the booty of this razzia, and some of the
+creditors of the Sarkee went this morning to wish him God speed. I am
+glad I did not go out to see him start on such a nefarious expedition.
+It appears, however, that we are not to leave for Kuka until the return
+of the army. They intimate that a portion of the spoil will be sent with
+us to the great Sheikh of Bornou: so that after all, however unwilling,
+we shall seem to countenance this bloody work.
+
+_26th, Sunday._--We have still to remain here another week at least, so
+I must make what use I can of the time of this delay, caused by the
+nefarious razzia, now in course of operation. In the extravagant manner
+that this government of Zinder conducts its affairs, it can only support
+itself by periodical expeditions of this kind. There is one Fez merchant
+here, to whom the Sarkee owes four millions of wadas, or about two
+thousand reals of Fezzan; and other creditors claim in a like
+proportion. Now, indeed, we begin to understand how the slave-markets of
+quasi-civilised countries are supplied by the surplus produce of these
+expeditions.
+
+The route from Aghadez to the country of Sidi Hashem, now governed by
+his son, is three days' journey, and from the country of Sidi Hashem to
+Wadnoun, three days: there is also a route of five days, a little more
+direct; and the route direct from Aghadez to Wadnoun is four days'
+journey.
+
+The story of the Tibboo is going the round of the town, and becoming the
+daily gossip. This story has now assumed a substantial historical shape.
+The facts are, as I have already intimated, that the Tibboo persecuted
+me to give him a medicine to enable him to trade with profit. I
+scribbled over a bit of paper, cut in the shape of a dollar, the number
+10,000 dollars, and told him to swallow it, and afterwards to bring it
+me in the same state. The price for this was a fowl. He swallowed the
+paper, and went off to get the fowl. Not succeeding in the souk, he went
+to the Shereef Kebir, and requested him to give him a fowl for a sick
+person. The Shereef gave him what he asked, and the Tibboo brought it to
+me. This story since has been greatly embellished at the expense of the
+Tibboo, and affords infinite amusement to the Moorish and Arabic
+merchants of Zinder.
+
+I have just noticed some sable ladies, with their hair all twisted into
+three or four great points--vain attempts at curls. The back parts are
+all covered with a paste of indigo. The hair is well dressed, and free
+from any woolly appearance.
+
+Yesterday the Sheikh Lousou paid me a visit. I presented him with a loaf
+of sugar, and a cotton handkerchief. He received them with manifest
+pleasure, and promised to write a letter to the Queen, that, in the
+event of other English people or Europeans passing through the Tuarick
+country of Aheer, he would render them all the protection in his power.
+Lousou is esteemed by some persons as great a man as En-Noor in Zinder,
+but this estimation is exceedingly out of place. Lousou could give
+protection to European travellers and merchants, but not in an equal
+degree to En-Noor. As he is a younger man than En-Noor, however, it is
+desirable to secure his friendship, and, if possible, that of the
+Sarkee. Lousou wore the bag of camphor which I gave him, showing it to
+me with great satisfaction.
+
+According to the information of a slave of the Sarkee, Gumel is a large
+Bornouese province, the capital of which is Tumbi: the Sultan's name is
+Dan-Tanoma. Gumel is one day and a-half from Zinder, but the capital is
+three days by horse and five days by camel travelling. Gumel has twelve
+great officers. Bundi is a large province of Bornou, the capital of
+which is Galadima: the Sultan's name is Kagami. Galadima is three days
+from Zinder. Aoud, a large place, is one day from Galadima. Alamaigo,
+also a large village or town, is half a day from Galadima. Meria, is
+three days from Galadima, and three from Zinder.
+
+According to strict Muslims, it is a sin to write Jebel Mekka, "the
+mountain of Mekka." I have lately noticed several instances of
+superstition. A Moor of Fezzan, to whom I gave a small portion of
+camphor, showed me the paper and piece of cotton cloth in which he had
+wrapped it up, and swore that during the night the ginns, or evil
+spirits, had eaten it. Many other Moors asked me if it was possible to
+preserve camphor from the ginns? They said they knew a man who one
+evening locked up a piece of this substance in an iron box, and in the
+morning it was gone; the ginns had eaten it.
+
+I went to see the manufacture of the matting which is used for making
+houses. There were thirty slaves at work, all belonging to one man; over
+these were three masters (also slaves), to keep them at their task. They
+certainly did not hurry themselves, and very few people hurry themselves
+in this country. These slaves were all Hazna, or pagans. The Sarkee of
+Zinder, besides Tuaricks, has many pagan subjects. Some of the blacks, I
+was surprised to see, had breasts as full and plump as many women. In
+other respects these pagans do not differ from their Muslim brethren.
+The matting is woven thirty or forty feet long, and eight feet broad,
+and is used to enclose a cluster of huts. It is all doubly-woven. I gave
+each of them a small looking-glass, having nothing else to dispose of.
+
+According to a Moor here, the land revenues of Zinder are divided into
+three portions; one of which goes to the Sarkee, one to the Sheikh, and
+one to the Bashaw. This is the new arrangement. The Sarkee makes up his
+accounts, or fills up his exchequer by razzias.
+
+_27th._--The weather continues mild, but thick. The thermometer now
+stands at about 60 deg. at sunrise. The people are mostly healthy. We do not
+hear of cases of fever, or any other periodical complaints. As soon as
+up, I received a visit from a number of old ladies, who came to see the
+Christian, and to bring him a bowl of milk. One of them had been the
+nurse of the Sultan of Zinder; so that I was bound to feel duly honoured
+by this attention.
+
+Everybody now says the Sarkee will return in the course of five days,
+and besides slaves, will bring store of cattle and horses, the spoils of
+the poor people. I certainly never heard of a more iniquitous
+expedition, for it is believed he has gone against the pacific and loyal
+subjects of the Sheikh--not tribes or villages under another power.
+
+I went to visit the renegade Jew Ibrahim. I had prescribed a regimen for
+him, to assist in the cure of his bad foot, but yet he had done nothing.
+These kind of people are most eager to get prescriptions, but very lax
+in following them. Probably in secret they expect a magical cure, and
+have no confidence in any specific less expeditious than the waving of a
+wand. I repeated everything again to him, without expecting compliance.
+It is, however, cheap to express condolence in this manner.
+
+The streets are almost deserted; only a few beggars and poor people show
+themselves about. There was a fire last night in the market-place, said
+to be the work of an incendiary. The thieves here set fire to the huts,
+and profit in the confusion by carrying off the goods and chattels of
+the alarmed; as, indeed, they do in London and other cities of Europe.
+The devices of roguery are marvellously monotonous.
+
+In the forenoon I received a visit from the Iman of the mosque of
+Zinder. I asked about the Hazna, or pagans, thinking to get a little
+information; but I only learnt what I knew before, that the Hazna make
+their offerings, which consist, of milk and ghaseb, under trees. These
+Hazna are mostly peasants--little farmers; and, like Cain, they offer to
+their deity the fruits of the earth. The Iman said their deity was
+Eblis, or the Devil; an accusation commonly bandied between rival
+creeds. He informed me, also, that there are a good number of Hazna in
+both Zinder and the other towns and villages of the province. He
+despaired of their ever becoming Muslims, but added, "The great men
+amongst them must become Muslims by order of the Sheikh, whilst the poor
+people are left to do as they please, and so furnish a constant supply
+for the home and foreign slave-mart. It is not the interest of the
+Sarkee or the foreign merchants that they should become Muslims."
+
+I have heard of the names of two other Tuarick tribes, viz. the
+Ezzaggeran, near Gouber, and the Daggera, near Minyo, belonging to the
+Tuarick country of Gurasu. These, apparently, are fractions of tribes.
+
+I register the following legend, which seems to imply that Zinder, like
+many of the towns of this part of Africa, is of comparatively modern
+origin.
+
+Twenty years ago there was a fine spring of water bubbling from under
+the largest granite rock of Zinder. It was this spring which first
+attracted a population to settle here. Suleiman, father of the present
+Sarkee, one day harangued the people, and told them, "This water is not
+necessary for us; the Sheikh of Bornou will hear of this prey, and come
+and take our country from us. Now let us fetch a fighi, who shall write
+a talisman; and we will put this talisman upon the mouth of the spring,
+and with it a large stone, and the water of the spring shall immediately
+dry." The people consented to this; the charm was written and thrown
+into the spring, and the stone was rolled on to its mouth; since which
+the spring has in reality ceased to flow.
+
+The population of Zinder is now supplied with water from three wells,
+about half an hour distant from the spring, now dry. Upon the stone over
+this dried spring are several marks, like the footprints of camels and
+horses. Other people add, "the marks of a man when he kneels down to
+pray."
+
+The Shereef Kebir says, that Lousou brought a piece of magnetic iron to
+him, which he sent to Haj Beghir in Kuka. Lousou reports that there is
+an abundance of magnetic iron in Aheer. Kohul is very cheap in the
+market of Zinder. In Kanou it can be had for ten reals (Fezzan) the
+cantar; and in Yakoba, whence it is brought, for three reals. There is a
+whole rock of kohul in Yakoba, the property of the Sultan. The Fellatahs
+rule Yakoba as well as Adamowa. They are still very powerful in all this
+part of Africa. Individual Fellatahs have as many as five thousand
+slaves, who work partly for their masters and partly for themselves.
+
+I visited this evening Sidi Bou Beker Weled Haj Mohammed Sudani, cousin
+of the Sheikh of Bornou. He was surrounded with all the objects of
+Bornou luxury,--carpets, guns, pistols, swords, umbrellas, &c. &c. He
+was busy looking over a book containing an explanation of dreams, with a
+vastly-knowing malem. They both made pretensions to great learning. In
+other respects, the cousin of the Sheikh was very affable. He said,
+Bornou is the only good country hereabouts. All the rest are full of
+fever or bandits. "There were two English," he observed, "came to us (in
+Bornou), and were very well until they went to Soudan, where they died."
+These persons were Oudney and Clapperton. I told him I must return by
+way of Wadai, which he disapproved of. I added, that Abbas Pasha would
+write to Darfour and Wadai, to give me protection. He then said, "Oh, if
+the Sheikh writes to Wadai, you can go in safety."
+
+This cousin of the Sheikh is a great merchant, and comes backwards and
+forwards to Zinder from Kuka.
+
+_28th._--The nights are still rather cool, but the days not so. The
+weather continues heavy, with a south-east wind. I went to the cousin of
+the Sheikh to administer to him a dose of Epsom salts. I have often been
+surprised to see how greedily these people drink off this nauseous
+medicine, and smack their lips as if it was something excessively
+delicious.
+
+Afterwards I had a visit from a great sister of the Sarkee, a woman who
+is a Sheikha (female Sheikh), and receives the revenues of fifty
+villages for her own private use. She was quite well, but begged hard
+for medicine. At last I gave her some tea, which she drank off, after
+laughing a good deal.
+
+A small caravan has arrived from Ghadamez in three months, but brought
+no news, except that Aaron Silva is living, and not dead, as reported.
+These merchants make continual inquiries respecting the state of the
+country (i.e. of Soudan), and are answered, "_Afia, afia._" However, it
+is these same slave-dealing merchants who occasion the greater part of
+the wars and troubles in these countries, by their perpetual demand for
+slaves.
+
+I am told that many cantars of indigo can be purchased in Soudan (in
+Kanou), at a price which would bring a great profit in Tripoli; but the
+merchants refuse to engage in this commerce. I think I shall make a
+trial of it.
+
+The cousin of the Sheikh recommended me to dress in my English clothes
+on my arrival in Kuka. By doing this, he observed, "you will please the
+people, and get many presents." It was ever my intention to dress in
+European clothes in Bornou.
+
+The common mode in which a poor person salutes a great man, is by
+kneeling down and throwing dust upon the bare head. The degree of
+humility and respect is expressed by the quantity of dust thrown! The
+Sarkee, of course, gets a great deal of dust, and every personage under
+him his portion, according to his rank. The beggars throw the dust about
+in clouds. At first, it is painful to see this custom.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XV.
+
+Political News--Animals of Zinder--Sleepy City--District
+of Korgum--Razzias--Family of Sheikh Omer of
+Bornou--Brothers--Sons--Sisters--Daughters--Viziers--Kashallas--Power of
+the Sheikh--A Cheating Prince--Old Slave--Fetishism--Devil in a
+Tuarick's head--Kibabs--Fires--A Prophecy--Another Version of the
+Razzia--Correspondence between Korgum and Zinder.
+
+
+Some political news has arrived to-day by the caravan from Ghat.
+According to the gazette of the caravan there is peace now between the
+Porte and Musku (Russia), and Musku is to restore to the Porte the one
+hundred countries taken by her, as also to pay the expenses of the war.
+Hostilities have broken out between the Emperor of Morocco and the
+French; a Shereef has appeared to recommence the holy war, and Muley
+Abd-Errhaman supplies him with the means to fight the French. Thus the
+news is all fashioned to Muslim tastes. Also it is said, that in future
+the red colour in flags is always to be uppermost. This seems likewise a
+compliment to the Muslim power in Europe and Africa. It is very curious
+to see how dexterously the caravan-newsman has coined his wares.
+
+The shonshona of Gouber is very faint, and consists of nine very small
+cuts.
+
+Gouber is full of Tuaricks, Kilgris, and Iteesan. It is said the Sarkee
+will bring an immense number of Hazna, or pagans, with him, on his
+return from the razzia.
+
+_29th._--At sunrise, when the thermometer is at 57 deg., I feel the cold. I
+am told that, though Kuka is very hot, it is quite free from fever,--in
+fact, from all periodic epidemics. So we may expect to do well, if we
+escape the fever of Soudan.
+
+The household gods of Zinder are a large species of lizard, who make
+their dwelling-places in the walls and roofs of the huts. These are in
+great numbers. Cats are the principal nuisance and the thieves of the
+place--attacking and devouring fowls. Of rats and mice I have observed
+none. But few small birds show themselves. The small filthy vulture is
+everywhere, and a few eagles of a diminutive white species are seen
+amongst them. Some few dogs are kept, ill-looking and mongrel in their
+breed. The domestic cattle are horses, asses, oxen, sheep and goats, and
+a few camels.
+
+The life of the male population of Zinder seems to pass in dreamy
+indolence, varied continually by the excitement of a razzia. The women
+divide their time between the kitchen and the toilette. No amusement is
+sought, except from drum-beating and the attendant dance. Thus time
+lapses with these black citizens. As for the foreign merchants and
+traders, they, too, drowse away the period of their residence in this
+sleepy city. They sell their goods in a lump, on trust, to the Sarkee,
+and then compose themselves to slumber whilst he goes forth on a razzia,
+and brings them slaves in payment. The thick, heavy atmosphere--at any
+rate during this season--appears to forbid any other kind of life. It
+weighs upon the eyelids, and oppresses the soul. Existence passes away
+in a tropical dream, and death finds its prey, as Jupiter found Maia,
+"betwixt sleep and wake," in this poppied climate. Altogether--as far as
+I can see through my own winking eyes--Zinder is a most unlovely place;
+by no means desirable for a stranger to live in. I manage, however, now
+and then to grasp at, and hold, something like definite information. In
+looking over the itineraries of Captain Lyon, I find that the razzias
+have obliterated many towns and villages from the map. At any rate, the
+people now are ignorant of their names.
+
+Korgum, half-a-day's distance from Konchai, two days from Zinder, is,
+according to a report come in this afternoon, the place or theatre of
+the present razzia. The pretext is--for I now hear of a pretext--that
+they will not pay tribute to the Sheikh. Korgum consists of three
+villages and a town, upon and under some rocky hills, which are visible
+during three days' march. The district is the residence of a sultan. Ten
+years ago it belonged to Maradee, but since then has been wrested from
+it, though it has ever shown a doubtful allegiance. When the former
+chief fled to Maradee, he stopped to drink water at Korgum; but the
+sultan refused to grant him permission. The present Sarkee, on being
+restored to his government,--though he made war upon his
+brother--nevertheless determined to avenge this barbarous inhospitality.
+He went and attacked the Sultan of Korgum, captured several of his
+people, and cut off, it is pretended, eight hundred heads. Not satisfied
+with this slight vengeance, the chief of Zinder seems to have remained
+anxious to pick a quarrel. He next sent for wada; in other words, for
+tribute. The Sultan of Korgum forwarded some. The Sarkee despatched a
+message, that what he had received was "few." The Sultan replied, "Why
+should I send many?" A pertinent question, that seems to have closed the
+correspondence, but not brought the affair to a conclusion.
+
+The Sarkee of Zinder heard that the Sultan of Korgum had just gone out
+on a razzia, united with the people of Maradee, and has taken this
+opportunity to make a foray. It is probably with reference to some
+rumour of this expedition that Overweg writes to me.
+
+It is said here that the Sarkee never captures all the people, but
+leaves a few to breed for another razzia! All the inhabitants of Korgum
+are Hazna, a fact strongly insisted on as a salve for the consciences of
+my Muslim friends. The Sarkee is expected back on Friday.
+
+I received a visit from the two Shereefs that were at Mourzuk in our
+time. They left after us; had remained three months in Ghat, and, of
+course, detest the Tuaricks. I gave them coffee, and each a cotton
+handkerchief.
+
+_30th._--The following are given me as the names of the family of the
+Sheikh Omer, of Bornou:--
+
+
+_Brothers._
+
+Abd-Er-Rahman is the eldest brother after the Sheikh, and generalissimo
+of the army; the province of Minyo belongs to him.
+
+Yusuf, a very learned man, a great fighi.
+
+Othman, also a fighi. His mother is a native of Mandara.
+
+Bou Beker, also a fighi; to him belongs Limbaua and many estates.
+
+Mahmoud, also a fighi; to him belongs Kalulwa and many estates.
+
+Abdullah Manufi; to him belongs Gubobaua, consisting of 220 countries or
+villages.
+
+(Gubobaua is one day west of Kuka.)
+
+Bashir: fighi; resides with his brother Abd-Er-Rahman, and has a small
+village.
+
+Hamed Rufai; by the same mother as Abdullah Manufi.
+
+Mustapha; a great man, having much influence in the country: he has many
+estates.
+
+Ibrahim; fighi, and has estates.
+
+Anos.
+
+Khalil.
+
+Ahmed.
+
+Hamed Zaruf, a young brother.
+
+Hamed Bedawi, a young brother.
+
+Abd-el-Kader, a young brother.
+
+Abd-el-Majed, a young brother.
+
+Mohammed el-Kanemi; young.
+
+All these my informant knows. What a family! Verily we are in Africa!
+
+
+_Sons._
+
+Bou Beker, aged about fifteen years.
+
+Ibraim.
+
+Hashemi.
+
+Kasem.
+
+Tahir.
+
+Taib.
+
+Rufai.
+
+Abdallah.
+
+Mohammed Lamin (name of his grandfather).
+
+Kanami.
+
+The mother of the Sheikh is called Magera, a native of Begarmi.
+
+
+_Sisters of the Sheikh._
+
+Nafisa; to her belongs the country of Kumalewa (same mother as
+Abd-Er-Rahman).
+
+Maimuna; to her belongs the place of Wameri (same mother as above).
+
+Aisha; to her belongs Koba.
+
+Maream.
+
+Fatema.
+
+Mabruka.
+
+Hamsa.
+
+Alia; to her belongs Hamisah, a village.
+
+Halima.
+
+Zainubo; to her belongs Furferrai.
+
+Mussaud.
+
+Fadula.
+
+Rabia.
+
+Sinnana.
+
+Mubarka.
+
+Rihana.
+
+These are all he recollects among the number. A copious royal family!
+
+
+_Daughters of the Sheikh._
+
+Rukaia (married), about twenty years of age; to her belongs Balungu.
+
+Fatima, a young girl.
+
+No doubt there are others. It is curious to compare this knot of near
+relations with the scanty families among the Tuaricks. The fertility of
+the human race seems to be as that of the soil on which its several
+tribes are located. Deserts may produce conquerors, but the fat lands
+produce subjects.
+
+I may now add a further list, obtained at the same time as the above.
+
+The great vizier (or prime minister) is Haj Beshir; but there are other
+viziers of more or less power:--Shadeli; Ibrahim Wadai; Rufai (cousin of
+the Sheikh); Hamza, and Mala Ibrahim. These form the council of the
+Sheikh.
+
+The chief kady is Kady Mohammed, and another kady of influence is named
+Haj Mohammed Aba.
+
+The principal slaves (that is to say, the principal favourites in these
+despotic countries) are Kashalla Belal and Kashalla Ali. The word
+Kashalla corresponds to the title Bey. The brother of Abd-el-Galeel,
+lately killed, is living at Kuka, and is called Sheikh Ghait. There is
+also there a brother of the ancient sheikh killed in Fezzan, called
+Sheikh Omer, uncle of the above.
+
+According to my informant, the power of the Sheikh has immensely
+increased since the days of the first expedition. The Sheikh has now
+more than 100,000 cavalry, and a great quantity of muskets. Certainly I
+have ocular proof that Zinder, an important province, has been added to
+the territories of this most powerful prince. I may as well mention,
+that my authority is Omer Wardi. His father, Mohammed Wardi, went with
+Clapperton to Sakkatou.
+
+The Sheikh, according to this seemingly well-informed person, is
+paramount sovereign of Begarmi and Mandara,--these states paying each a
+tribute yearly of one thousand slaves, to which Mandara adds fifty
+eunuchs,--a most costly contribution. This seems to be the country where
+eunuchs are made in these parts.
+
+Lagun is also under the Sheikh, and has become a province of Bornou.
+
+In this country, it is said, there are pieces of cannon. Also, there is
+another country, Kussuri, four days south of Begarmi, now united to the
+Sheikh's territories; and besides, Maffatai, four days south-east from
+Kuka (a country of a sultan).
+
+Dikua, two days south from Kuka; a province with a powerful sultan, who
+has the power of life and death.
+
+Kulli, one day west of Dikua; Blad-es-Sultan.
+
+En-Gala, two days south of Kuka, country of a sultan; belonging to
+Yusuf, brother of the Sheikh.
+
+I went to see the renegade Jew; he was busy in a quarrel with a servant
+of Lousou, to whom he had given eight slaves to take to Ghat, to be sold
+on his account. Lousou had sold the slaves, and rendered no account to
+the renegade--a most unprincely proceeding, to say the least of it; if,
+indeed, it would not be more African to say princely proceeding: for
+there seems no vice, whether violent or mean, which is not exaggerated
+by the holders of power in these parts.
+
+The souk is almost deserted to-day, on account of the Sarkee being
+absent. I passed the slave-stalls, and saw another poor old woman for
+sale, upwards of fourscore years of age. The slave-merchants offered her
+for four thousand wadas, about eight shillings. People purchase these
+poor old creatures that they may fetch wood and water, even until their
+strength fails them and they faint by the way.
+
+I made other inquiries about the Hazna of Zinder. It seems the Sarkee
+himself is still half pagan, for at the beginning of every year he
+proceeds with his officers to a tree, the ancient god of paganism, and
+there distributes two goffas of wada (about 100,000), three bullocks and
+sheep, and ghaseb, to the poor. These things are really offered to the
+deities of his ancestors, though the poor of the country get the benefit
+of them. There are four or five trees of this description, at which such
+annual offerings are made; but there is only one Tree of Death where
+malefactors are executed, the one mentioned in a former page.[17] The
+Muslim converts of Soudan find the Ramadhan excessively burdensome, as
+well as many other rites of Islamism, and for this reason the greater
+part of the population of Soudan, who profess Mohammedanism, are still
+pagans in heart. It is vain to expect a nation to pass from loose to
+ascetic practices without some moral motive, such as that which
+sustained the Muslims at their first brilliant start in the world.
+
+ [17] See pp. 211 and 218. Probably the second Tree of Death
+      described was in reality only a fetish tree.--ED.
+
+A Tuarick came this morning and said the devil was in his head, and that
+he wanted some medicine to drive him out. I gave him an emetic of
+tartarised antimony, which I hope served his purpose.
+
+N.B. The news of the Sarkee having "eaten up" four countries of Korgum
+is confirmed to-day.
+
+The preparation of kibabs is quite a science here. The kibab cook makes
+a conical hillock of dust and ashes, flattened on the top. The edge of
+this mound he plants with sticks, on which is skewered a number of
+little bits of meat: then a fire is kindled between this circular
+forest, and the sticks are twisted round from time to time, so that
+every part may be well roasted. To us these kibabs are cheap enough,
+five or six cowries a stick.
+
+The wall of Zinder has no gates, only openings. I went to the garden of
+the Shereef. The vegetation does not look very flourishing in this
+season. The Shereef has planted some horse-beans; "the only beans of the
+kind," says the gardener, "in all the territories of Bornou."
+
+_31st._--The weather is increasingly cool; therm. at sunrise, 50 deg.. The
+atmosphere of Zinder never clears up. I was awakened this morning,
+before daylight, by the cries of "Fire!" A fire of huts was raging close
+upon us. This is the third accident of this kind which has taken place
+during the sixteen days we have been here. The people take them, as a
+matter of course, with Californian indifference, and it is likely that
+there are two or three fires every ten days.
+
+A merchant from Kanou (native of Tunis) called to see me. He says the
+English (Americans) now bring calicoes, powder, dollars, rum, wadas,
+guns, and many other things, to Niffee, which afterwards are sent up to
+Kanou. The slave-trade, therefore, must thrive here; and we get the
+credit of it, because the ruffians by whom it is carried on speak our
+language.
+
+A great fighi called also to-day to explain any dreams which I might
+require the interpretation of, bringing with him his Tifsir El-Helam. I
+told him that last night I dreamt I saw "two persons fall to the ground
+upon (from?) the boughs of a tree." He searched his book and produced a
+passage, the pith of which was, that anything which I undertake will not
+be accomplished. Very agreeable information! I thought we had had bad
+news enough. The passage made to apply prophetically to me ran literally
+as follows:--
+
+"And whosoever sees (in dreams) a tree fall, or any thing fall from
+it,--then will not accomplish itself the thing which is between the man
+who thus dreams."[18]
+
+ [18] The unhappy event which soon after this interview occurred,
+      no doubt confirmed the belief of the natives in the powers
+      of this great fighi.--ED.
+
+I hired to-day Mohammed Ben Amud Bou Saad, at a salary of ten reals of
+Fezzan a month.
+
+I have heard another version of the plan and cause of the present razzia
+of the Sultan of Zinder. "Our own correspondents" cannot be more
+versatile in finding out rumours than the gossips of Zinder. It is now
+said that the Sultan of Korgum wrote to the Sarkee of Zinder, and asked
+him if he should make a razzia on or with Maradee.
+
+The Sarkee said, "Go." But as soon as the news came that the sultan was
+gone, this prince, in whom that other put his trust, immediately set out
+to make a razzia on the country deserted by its sultan.
+
+"_Compos!_" cried my Moorish informant; and certainly it was a clever
+negro trick. It is difficult to know whom to pity or condemn in this
+iniquitous affair. We may be certain, however, that the poor women and
+children, the principal sufferers by the razzias, are guiltless in these
+transactions; and we may, without fear, bestow our sympathies upon them.
+At the same time it is allowable to admire the profound secrecy with
+which the Sarkee planned his razzia. Not a soul in Zinder, besides
+himself, knew where he was going. The general opinion was to Daura,
+which affords scope for a thousand razzias.
+
+The correspondence which I have mentioned between the vassals of Korgum
+and Zinder illustrates the abominable system on which the Sheikh of
+Bornou permits his provinces to be governed. Really it is difficult to
+compare the condition of this extraordinary region to anything but a
+forest, through which lions and tigers range to devour the weaker and
+more timid beasts--to which they grant intervals of repose during the
+digestion of their meals.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVI.
+
+Sheikh of Bornou--Arab Women--News from the Razzia--Procession of
+newly-caught Slaves--Entrance of the Sarkee--Chained Slaves--My Servant
+at the Razzia--Audacity of Bornou Slaves--Korgum--Konchai--Product of
+the Razzia--Ghadamsee Merchants--Slave-trade--Incident at Korgum--State
+of Kanou--A Hue and Cry--Black Character--Vegetables at
+Zinder--Minstrel--Medi--Gardens--Ladies--Fanaticism--Americans at
+Niffee--Rich People--Tuaricks Sick--Morals--Dread of the
+Sarkee--Fashions.
+
+
+_Feb. 1st._--It is said that we shall leave this for Kuka on Monday
+next, whether the Sultan of Zinder returns from his razzia or not. It
+certainly is a shame that I should be kept here waiting the pleasure of
+a fellow gone to heat up for slaves to pay his debts.
+
+The merchants from Kanou represent the power of the Fellatahs as very
+strong, if not increasing. From Sakkatou to Kanou, and Kanou to Niffee,
+Yakoba, and Adamaua, everywhere along these lines of towns and populous
+districts, are found Fellatah chiefs or sultans. Bornou is, however, now
+much stronger than during the time of the first expedition. The Sheikh
+has two thousand muskets; so says the Shereef Kebir; whilst in the time
+of Denham he had only fifty. Certainly two thousand muskets is a
+progress beyond fifty. The Asbenouee Tuaricks carried away some
+half-dozen Arab women when they slaughtered the Walad Suleiman. One of
+these women has been seen, and the Sheikh and the Shereef Kebir are
+trying to get her back. The Sheikh has sent word that all the Arab women
+must be restored to their homes.
+
+The Shereef Kebir says the powder of this country is all bad, but that
+Haj Beshir and the Sheikh get English or American powder from Niffee.
+Leaden bullets are scarce; they use zinc bullets: but these will not go
+far, resisting the force of the powder; nor will they penetrate deep
+when they hit a person. Nitre is found at a place one hour from Zinder,
+called Kankandi.
+
+It is supposed that the Sarkee, not having found slaves enough in
+Korgum, has gone somewhere else. The Shereef Kebir would scarcely
+mention the subject of the razzia to me for shame. At length a Moor
+present said, "Fish eats up fish, so it is with the Sarkee." This
+brought forth a laugh, and seemed to be thought a sufficient salve for
+all their consciences.
+
+A cry was raised early this morning, "The Sarkee is coming!" Every one
+went out eagerly to learn the truth. It turned out that a string of
+captives, fruits of the razzia,[19] was coming in. There cannot be in
+the world--there cannot be in the whole world--a more appalling
+spectacle than this. My head swam as I gazed. A single horseman rode
+first, showing the way, and the wretched captives followed him as if
+they had been used to this condition all their lives. Here were naked
+little boys running alone, perhaps thinking themselves upon a holiday;
+near at hand dragged mothers with babes at their breasts; girls of
+various ages, some almost ripened into womanhood, others still infantine
+in form and appearance; old men bent two-double with age, their
+trembling chins verging towards the ground, their poor old heads covered
+with white wool; aged women tottering along, leaning upon long staffs,
+mere living skeletons;--such was the miscellaneous crowd that came
+first; and then followed the stout young men, ironed neck to neck! This
+was the first instalment of the black bullion of Central Africa; and as
+the wretched procession huddled through the gateways into the town the
+creditors of the Sarkee looked gloatingly on through their lazy eyes,
+and calculated on speedy payment.
+
+ [19] Mr. Richardson interchanges the words _razzia_ and _gazia_;
+      the latter, I imagine, is the correct word, but the former
+      is better known to European readers.--ED.
+
+In the afternoon I was informed that the Sarkee was really about to
+enter the town.
+
+Expecting to see other captives, and anxious to be an eye-witness to all
+these atrocities attendant on the razzia, I went to see him pass with
+his cavalry. After waiting ten minutes, there rode up single cavaliers,
+then lines of horsemen, all galloping towards the castle-gates to show
+the people their equestrian skill; then came a mass of cavalry, about
+fifty, with a drum beating, and in the midst of these was the sultan.
+There was nothing very striking in this cavalcade; a few cavaliers had
+on a curious sort of helmet, made of brass, with a kind of horn standing
+out from the crown; others wore a wadding of woollen stuff, a sort of
+thin mattrass, in imitation of a coat of mail. Its object is to turn the
+points of the poisoned arrows. The cavaliers thus dressed form the
+body-guard of the Sarkee. Amongst these troops were some Bornou
+horsemen, who rode with more skill than the Zinder people. The best
+cavaliers resembled as much as possible the Arab cavaliers of the north.
+There were no captives with these horsemen; the slaves had only come in
+to the number, it was said, of some two or three thousand during the
+day. Although I wished to see them, I was, nevertheless, spared a
+repetition of the misery and indignation which the sight in the morning
+produced in my mind. I have been told positively that the poor old
+creatures brought in with the other captives will not fetch a shilling
+a-head in the slave-market. It is, therefore, a refinement of cruelty
+not to let them die in their native homes,--to tear them away to a
+foreign soil, and subject them to the fatigues of the journey, and the
+insults of a rude populace, and ruder and crueller slave-dealers. Many
+die on the road during the two or three days' march.
+
+It is exceedingly painful to live in a place like Zinder, where almost
+every householder has a chained slave. The poor fellows (men and boys)
+cannot walk, from the manner in which the irons are put on, and when
+they move about are obliged to do so in little jumps. These slaves are
+ironed, that they may not run away. There are many villages and towns, a
+few days from Zinder, to which they can escape without difficulty, and
+where they are not pursued. It was exceedingly horrifying to hear the
+people of Zinder salute the troops of the razzia on their return with
+the beautiful Arabic word, _Alberka_, "blessing!" Thus is it that human
+beings sometimes ask God for a blessing on transactions which must ever
+be stamped with his curse. The Italian bandit also begs the Virgin to
+bless his endeavours. It is evident that nothing but the strong arm of
+power and conquest will ever root out the curse of slavery from Africa.
+
+The slave whom Haj Beshir sent from Kuka to Zinder, to accompany me to
+Kuka, went with the Sarkee, and took one of my servants with him. I did
+not know anything about it until they were gone. But this evening, on my
+return from seeing the Sarkee, I found a woman and child, a boy and a
+young man, tied together, lying not far from my hut, in the enclosure
+where we are residing. I was excessively indignant at this conduct of
+Haj Beshir's slave, although certainly done in ignorance. These captives
+were the fruits of the part he took in the expedition. I have not made
+up my mind whether I will go to Kuka with this fellow, for it is not the
+first time he has shown something like an insolent behaviour. As to my
+servant, I had already discharged him, but the Shereef Kebir persuaded
+me to let him go with the boat to Kuka, as he knew how to place it on
+the camels better than the other servants. I scolded him well for going
+with the razzia, because he himself was once in bondage, and had
+returned free under our protection. But I fear my words will have little
+effect; for in Zinder, at least, the great concern and occupation of the
+black population is, to go and steal their neighbours, and sell them
+into slavery. I repeat again, nothing but foreign conquest by a
+non-slaveholding power will extirpate slavery from the soil of Africa.
+
+I read Milton's "Comus" and other portions of his poetry, and find it a
+great relief in drawing my mind a little off African subjects. I am
+sorry I did not bring with me a copy of Shakespear. I have very few
+books with me of any kind, and fewer maps. I received a visit of fighis
+from the villages around, also from a sister and niece of the Sultan of
+Zinder, and gave them all a bit of sugar and sent them off.
+
+Around my house exists a swarm of fighis, who can copy charms and a few
+passages from the Koran. I procured some of the _bona fide_ specimens of
+their calligraphy. There are four different hands. These fighis are all
+blacks of pure blood. They write sideways.
+
+A courier arrived to-day from Kuka, bringing a despatch for the Governor
+of Zinder, to the effect that, in the event of his finding any people of
+Bornou committing misdemeanours of any sort, he, the Sultan of Zinder,
+was at liberty to treat them as he chose. I am told that the Bornou
+slaves, as well as the free people of that country, when they come to
+Zinder, have the audacity to seize on whomsoever comes in the way, and
+take them and sell them as slaves in the souk. This kidnapping is mostly
+done in the villages around Zinder, but even in the city itself it has
+been ventured; and the Sultan has hitherto been afraid to arrest these
+Bornouese miscreants. What a glimpse into the state of the empire of
+Bornou do such facts afford!
+
+_2d._--This morning the slave of Haj Beshir came to declare that the
+slaves which he brought here yesterday were not his booty, but belonged
+to another person, a volunteer. There is no getting at the truth in
+these countries. The theatre of the late razzia is westwards from Zinder
+about two days. Korgum is one day from Tesaoua. Konchai is a
+neighbouring country, about four hours from Korgum. The Sarkee attacked
+four villages of Korgum, but got few slaves. The people, though without
+their sultan, defended themselves well with their renowned arrows, and
+when they could hold out no longer they ascended the rocks and escaped.
+The wounds of arrows, though poisoned, are not always fatal, and often
+cured by the remedies known in these countries.
+
+The villages of Korgum are called Tangadala Agai. Not getting many
+slaves there, the Sarkee attacked two or three villages of Konchai. This
+province contains some three hundred villages. Ganua and Tanbanas were
+the places razzied. From the latter place six hundred slaves were
+obtained, nearly half of the whole captured. The total product of the
+razzia is about fifteen hundred; a thousand for the Sultan's share, and
+five hundred for the troops and volunteers. It is said this thousand
+will not suffice to pay the Sultan's debts, and it was on account of the
+fewness of slaves the Sarkee was obliged to bring with him the halt, the
+blind, the maimed, and the aged, stooping to the earth with age. Besides
+human beings, the Sarkee captured eight hundred and thirty bullocks, and
+flocks of sheep; seven hundred bullocks he gave to the troops and
+volunteers, and one hundred and thirty have been reserved for himself.
+Four men were killed, and one hundred horses, belonging to Zinder; but
+the enemy are said to have lost a good number. All the villages made
+resistance but one, where the poor people were busy cooking their
+suppers; when the Sarkee and his famished crew rushed upon them, seized
+them, and carried them into captivity. This, at any rate, is the report;
+but, according to others, the results of the expedition are much less
+important.
+
+All the country razzied is nominally subject to the Sheikh of Bornou, so
+that this Sarkee of Zinder has been pillaging the Bornou territories,
+and carrying off their inhabitants, who are subjects of the Sheikh, to
+raise money to pay his debts. A certain enmity exists, it is said,
+between Konchai and Zinder, which formerly was subject to the province
+of Konchai.
+
+According to one authority, the booty of the razzia is greatly reduced,
+even to more than half of what was reported. The share of the Sarkee is
+four hundred slaves, and one hundred and twenty slaves he gave to his
+troops. Seven places were attacked, but the people had news of the
+movements of the Sarkee, and were prepared to receive him: they shot
+their arrows through their stockades, thick and fast, upon the Sarkee
+and his people, and then retired to the rocks and behind the trees,
+which are abundant. Only one country was fairly razzied. Also but few
+beasts were taken, the people having secured all their cattle and flocks
+beforehand. The Sarkee got about one hundred bullocks. He took with him
+no less than two thousand horse, a collection from all the petty
+governments in the surrounding provinces, with their chiefs. All these
+forces did little more than beat the air. The capture of five hundred
+slaves will not pay the expenses of the expedition, but these people
+never sit down to count the cost. Their reckoning-days are few and far
+between.
+
+There is a report here that the Sultans of Maradee, Gouber, Korgum, and
+Tesaoua, have all gone together on a razzia to the territory of
+Sakkatou, and a few of the people of Zinder have gone with them; and
+this is the reason given for horses being now scarce in Zinder.
+
+Haj Beshir has sent a message from Kuka, that I am to quicken my steps
+thitherward. The kafila from Mourzuk has arrived, and many Arabs from
+the north.
+
+Of gubaga, called by the people of Zinder, ferri, four draas are sold in
+Zinder for one hundred wadas, about twopence. This native cotton cloth,
+when doubled, makes tents impervious to the summer rain.
+
+There are about fifty Ghadamsee merchants in Kanou and Boushi, capital
+of Yakoba, the principal of whom (here described as Maidukia) are:--
+
+Haj Mohammed Bel Kasem.
+Haj Tahir.
+Mairimi.
+Haj Mohammed Ben Habsa.
+Hemed Basidi.
+Kasem Ben Haiba.
+Haj Ali.
+Mohammed Makoren.
+Haj Hoda.
+Haj Abdullah.
+
+There are some merchants of consequence from Fezzan, viz. Basha Ben
+Haloum, Mohammed es-Salah, the agent of Gagliuffi, Sidi Ali, and Fighi
+Hamit, who always goes to Goujah (_blad_ of the gour-nuts). This country
+of the gour is distant three months' travelling, making small stages
+south-west by west. Morocco, Tuat, and the countries of the west, are
+scarcely represented by merchants in Kanou--there being one or two of
+them at most. Nor are there any from Egypt or the East.
+
+According to my informant, a small merchant, but well acquainted with
+these parts, not more than one hundred and fifty or two hundred slaves
+pass through or from Zinder annually to the north, and about five or six
+hundred go by the route of Tesaoua to the north, i.e. Tripoli, and a few
+to Souf. After all, the great slave-market is Central Africa itself.
+
+An affecting incident is told of the people of Korgum during the late
+razzia. The Sultan of Zinder besieged one town four days, and would not
+allow the people to drink water. They then sent word that "they did not
+know either God, or the Prophet Mahommed, or the Sheikh of Bornou, only
+him, Sarkee Ibrahim of Zinder, as their ruler and lord, and prayed him
+to give them water and peace." The Sarkee replied, "When my brother fled
+to you, you also would not allow him to drink, nor will I now permit
+you; therefore surrender into our hands." The people of the town held
+out these four days, and then during a night they all fled to the rocks
+and escaped.
+
+There are but few places to make razzias upon around Zinder, except on
+the Sheikh's provinces, unless the Sarkee will go to Maradee, and there
+he is now in friendship, or else is afraid to move in that direction. In
+the account of the booty, it is to be understood that all of it was not
+brought to Zinder, some having been distributed amongst the troops and
+volunteers of the rest of the province. I am told that the greater part
+of the slaves will be sent to Kanou for sale. It has already been
+observed, that only a few slaves go to the north in comparison with the
+numbers captured. The bulk of the slaves of the razzias are employed as
+serfs on the soil, or servants in the town. In Kanou, a rich man has
+three or four thousand slaves; these are permitted to work on their own
+account, and they pay him as their lord and master a certain number of
+cowries every month: some bring one hundred, some three hundred or six
+hundred, or as low as fifty cowries a-month. On the accumulation of
+these various monthly payments of the poor slaves the great man
+subsists, and is rich and powerful in the country. This system prevails
+in all the Fellatah districts.
+
+At dusk, there was a hue and cry near our house. I ran out to see what
+it was: the noise and stir was nothing less than an attempt of a slave
+to escape. The poor fellow was surrounded by a mass of men and boys, all
+anxious to seize him and deliver him to his master, to obtain the
+reward.
+
+My sympathies certainly begin to cool when I see the conduct of these
+blacks to one another. The blacks are, in truth, the real active
+men-stealers, though incited thereto frequently by the slave-merchants
+of the north and south. It must be confessed, that if there were no
+white men from the north or south to purchase the supply of slaves
+required out of Africa, slavery would still flourish, though it might be
+often in a mitigated form; and this brings me to the reiteration of my
+opinion, that only foreign conquest by a power like Great Britain or
+France can really extirpate slavery from Africa.
+
+_3d._--The sky never gets clear here till late at night. I read several
+pieces of Milton's poetry. I went to the gardens to see the wells:
+people fetch water from the wells of the gardens, where the supply is
+sufficiently abundant. I observed in the gardens the henna plant, the
+cotton plant, the indigo plant, and the tobacco plant. All these appear
+to be commonly cultivated in the gardens of Zinder. There are scarcely
+any other vegetables but onions, and beans, and tomatas; but the people
+cultivate a variety of small herbs, for making the sauce of their
+bazeens and other flour-puddings. The castor-oil tree is found in the
+town and in the hedges of the gardens in abundance.
+
+A Tuarick woman was brought here to-day for me to cure. She had been in
+an ailing, wasting state, for the last four years; the husband said that
+the devil had touched his wife, and reduced her to this state. Another
+woman was brought with an immense wen upon her abdomen. I have given
+away nearly all my Epsom salts, and now supply emetics. It is necessary
+to purge these people immediately, in a few hours, or they think you do
+nothing for them, or will not or cannot do them any good. Many Tuaricks
+come from the open country. We have also frequent cases of ophthalmia,
+mostly from the villages around.
+
+This evening I was charmed by the vocal sounds of a strolling minstrel,
+attended by two drummers with small drums, called _kuru_, and a chorus
+of singing-girls collected from the neighbourhood. The chorus-singers
+sang like charity-school girls at church. Altogether the singing was
+more pleasing than the monotonous, plaintive sounds of the Arabs.
+
+It seems difficult to get off. Everybody is making preparations for our
+journey, from the Sultan to the lowest slave sent from Kuka to assist in
+the transport of the boat and our baggage, and yet nothing is done!
+
+I parted with my new acquaintance, Medi, to-day, a soldier and slave of
+the Sarkee. He has been occasionally my cicerone in Zinder. He had been
+captured from a child, and is now past middle age, and knows little of
+the loss of home. He was a friendly chap, and gave me all the
+information he could make me understand in Soudanee and Bornouee.
+
+The evening was warm; a most pestilential sort of mist usually covers
+the ground at dark. After an hour or so it clears off--a few meteors now
+and then.
+
+_4th, Dies non._--It is said we shall probably leave this to-morrow.
+Read Milton all day. Weather sultry hot; did not go out. Thermometer in
+the evening, at dark, 80 deg..
+
+_5th._--I had a visit from a number of Tuarick ladies from the villages
+around, all of whom put their hands to their stomachs, and pretended
+they were mighty ill. I gave them all round a cup of tea. The renegade
+Jew came this morning, and gave me a list of all the things sold in the
+market of Kanou.
+
+I went in the afternoon to see the Kaid of Haj Beshir of Kuka, called
+Abd-el-kerim. He had a female slave afflicted with the leprosy, and sent
+for me to come and see her. He gave me some gour-nuts, and I found him a
+friendly man. Denham represents the Bornou people of his time as very
+fanatical. At present I have seen nothing of this. But we are in a
+province where there are many Hazna, or pagans; and the people of Zinder
+are but lukewarm Muslims. I have yet had no instance of fanaticism,
+either from people of Kuka or from residents here.
+
+I was amused by the relation of Haj Mohammed Ben Welid respecting his
+intercourse with an American vessel at Niffee.[20] He first describes
+the vessel as very large; the sides being ascended by a ladder. Then
+these Americans (English they were called) had a black interpreter, who
+spoke Arabic. Through this black fellow they inquired of the man of
+Ghadamez from whence he came. He replied, "Ghadamez,"--this they did not
+know; then "Trablous,"--this they did not know; then "Tunis,"--nor was
+this place known; and, finally, "Malta." "Ah!" they cried, "we have
+heard of this place." They then asked him what he traded in, and gave
+him some tobacco and rum. They were full of goods of every
+description,--calicoes, powder, shot, rum, tobacco, dollars, and _wada
+yaser_ (a great quantity of cowries), &c.
+
+ [20] See the Appendix. This Haj appears to have given some
+      useful information to Mr. Richardson.--ED.
+
+My room has been an hospital all this day, full of the sick, with
+various disorders. They come mostly from the villages around Zinder, and
+amongst them are a great number of Tuaricks, these people being more
+exposed to the weather, or more delicate, or more fanciful in their
+complaints. These poor devils all bring something--a little cheese, or a
+little milk; and I have received more of these trifling presents from
+them during the twenty days that I have been in Zinder, than in all the
+five or six months which I spent in their country. The reason may be,
+that in Asben they have nothing (or next to nothing), whilst here reigns
+abundance. Our servants say now that the Tuaricks always bring
+something, and the townspeople of Zinder nothing. Some of the Tuaricks
+are not sick; they come only to see the Christian, and stop, and look,
+and stare, and watch the minutest action of the said Christian,--more
+especially the women, who would never leave my room if I were not to
+drive them away.
+
+_6th._--I am told by a well-informed person, that morals are much
+relaxed here. To-day a black man came from the country to beg for his
+wife, who had been taken away from him and given to a Moor, who was
+about to send her to the coast for sale. She is to be restored to the
+man in exchange for two young girls, whom he has fetched from the
+country (probably kidnapped). The woman, however, has been given over,
+in the first place, to Shroma, the commander-in-chief; and after she has
+passed two or three days with him, she will be allowed to return to her
+husband. This woman was first kidnapped by the Sultan, and belonged to
+the Sheikh's dominions, to a village near Zinder, and was taken in a
+razzia. The Sultan gave or sold her to the Moor. This is a sample of the
+transactions daily going on there. I am also assured that the three
+hundred wives of the Sarkee himself are at almost everybody's disposal,
+two or three gour-nuts being the utmost which these ladies ask. But this
+is not all; for these women, wives of the Sultan, have intrigues with
+the slaves of the Sultan, with the brothers of the Sultan, and even with
+the sons of the Sultan. Whatever may be said of the Tuaricks and their
+freebooting, they do not practise such revolting immoralities as these.
+
+The Sarkee of Zinder is feared both by Fellatahs and Tuaricks,
+especially on account of the barbarous nature of his executions, which I
+have described. It may be supposed that a better system, both of
+government and morality, is practised in Kuka, and the more connected
+Bornou provinces.
+
+A man came to me to beg or buy some large beads for his wife; he said
+his wife was very anxious for them, to wear round her loins. Various are
+the caprices of fashion. Europeans show their finery, but here children
+and women wear beads round their loins under their clothes.
+
+It is now said we shall leave Zinder positively on Saturday next.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVII.
+
+News from Tesaoua--Razzia on Sakkatou--Laziness in Zinder--The
+Hajah--Herds of Cattle--More Tuarick Patients--Gardens--My
+Luggage--Adieu to the Sarkee--Present from his Highness--Start from
+Zinder--Country--Birds--Overtake the Kashalla--Slaves for
+Kanou--Continue the Journey--People of Deddegi--Their Timidity--Horse
+Exercise--Cotton--Strange Birds--Occupation of Men and Women--State of
+African Society--Islamism and Paganism--Character of the Kashalla--A
+Dogberry--Guddemuni--Cultivation--Beggars--Dancing Maidens.
+
+
+A Shereef has come here to-day from Tesaoua, and reports that Overweg
+left that place for Maradee, about eight days since, with a Tuarick of
+En-Noor. The city of Maradee is but an hour from Gonder, and is about
+twice the size of Zinder. The whole occupation of these two cities is
+that of razzia, and their subsistence and riches are all derived from
+this source. These places also swarm with Tuaricks, Kilgris, Iteesan,
+and Kailouees, who join the blacks of Maradee and Gouber in their
+slave-hunting expeditions. A grand razzia is being perpetrated by the
+united forces of the Sultans of Maradee, Gouber, and Korgum, with the
+assistance of a thousand Tuarick horse, on the territories of the Sultan
+of Sakkatou. The cavalry of the marauders consists of some five
+thousand, and there are more than this number on foot. My informant says
+they will go near Kashna, perhaps to its very gates. So it seems the
+Sultan of Sakkatou, with all his power and his great cities, is unable
+to check, or apparently even to avenge, the depredations committed upon
+his most important provinces. It is said that the product of this razzia
+will be some of the finest slaves in this part of Africa, many of them
+almost white. We are to leave here to-morrow. Inshallah! It is too bad
+to be kept so long here, when Haj Beshir has sent orders for us to come
+immediately.
+
+_7th._--The morning was cool; thermometer at sunrise, 58 deg.. I slept
+little, being angry at being kept here so long. I read Milton to divert
+my mind awhile from African subjects.
+
+There seems to be little industry in Zinder. The education of the
+greater part of the males is to fit them for razzias, and this must be
+considered as the principal cause of the unfeeling manner with which the
+blacks hereabouts look upon, their captive brethren. These captives are
+their means of livelihood; they live on the products of the razzias,
+and, of course, the superior intellects with which they may come in
+contact countenance all their proceedings; for the foreign merchants are
+equally interested with them in their inhuman expeditions. Africa is
+bled from all pores by her own children, seconded by the cupidity of
+strangers.
+
+All the Moors and Arabs whom I conversed with extol the power of the
+Sheikh of Bornou, and represent him as the greatest sheikh in Central
+Africa. Nevertheless, the Fellatahs are everywhere, far and wide, from
+Sakkatou to Adamaua, a dominant people, though few in number compared
+with the population of the subjected kingdoms.
+
+One of the most remarkable women, perhaps the only remarkable woman in
+Zinder at the present moment, is a certain Hajah (i.e. a woman who has
+made the pilgrimage of Mekka). She is a native of Fezzan, and is now
+employed in the household of the Sheikh of Bornou. She is excessively
+free and easy with all men folks; and although such a saint, her
+chastity, I am told, does not rate high. She returns to Kuka with us--no
+great gain to our caravan.
+
+Near our enclosure is a long space full of bullocks and cows--some four
+hundred and fifty. These are distributed amongst the whole population by
+ones, twos, and threes. I have seen no herd but this, and if this is
+really the only one, it speaks little for the wealth of the people of
+Zinder. In fact, with regard to horses it is much the same,--the Shereef
+can hardly find me a horse to ride on in the whole town.
+
+Apparently, Zinder is a wretchedly poor place. All are needy, from the
+Sarkee downwards, and when they get any property it all comes from the
+razzias. The system of living on rapine and man-stealing seems to bring
+its own punishment along with it.
+
+A _posse_ of Tuarick patients assailed me very early this morning. The
+Tuaricks, who have more intellect than the blacks, let loose their
+imagination to fancy they have all sorts of complaints. Thus I have more
+patients from them than from the people of Zinder, and am quite
+undeceived as to my having done with this tribe when I entered the gates
+of this town. There is, however, this difference now, that they treat me
+with the greatest respect, and are very quiet, bringing presents instead
+of demanding presents.
+
+The Tuaricks of Gurasu, I hear, have a bad name, and are troublesome to
+the Sheikh.
+
+I went to the gardens this morning and yesterday morning--it is an
+immense relief from the enclosure of huts in town--but have not observed
+anything new. I am told that the suburbs of Kanou are full of palms.
+Zinder, if the people were industrious, could have its forests of palms,
+bearing luscious fruit twice a-year. But, alas! the excitement of the
+razzia destroys the taste for all rational industry. What bandit could
+ever settle down into a tiller of the ground?
+
+_8th._--The people came this morning, in a great hurry, to take off the
+luggage, and afterwards pretended that I should go to-morrow, whilst the
+baggage must be forwarded to-day. This arrangement I positively refused
+to comply with, being determined to stop no longer.
+
+I went to take leave of the Sarkee. His highness had nothing to say, and
+we as little to him. We just shook hands, and that was all. He is not
+very well pleased with his late man-hunt. He still owes twenty thousand
+dollars, which it will require a dozen such speculations to pay off. The
+castle outside was besieged with soldiers, all lounging and listening to
+two or three drummers. I am disgusted to see so many idle people. The
+only novelty was four or five singing-women, who sung choruses inside
+the walls to a drummer. All the soldiers in undress, or not going on
+razzia, are bare-headed, and also nearly all the inhabitants of the
+town. A few persons, mostly women, wear a piece of blue cotton cloth
+over their heads, tied tight, so as to have the appearance of a cap. The
+common sort of women go with their breasts bare; others, of higher rank,
+drag up their skirts to cover their breasts; and a few add a piece of
+cotton cloth, which they throw over their shoulders like a shawl.
+
+The Sarkee has presented Yusuf with a horse, blind with one eye, and not
+much bigger than a jackass, in return for the present Yusuf made to him.
+In fact, this potentate is now as poor as a rat, and has nothing to give
+away. When he has anything, he soon parts with it, being generous to
+prodigality. The title Sarkee is used for men of inferior rank, and is
+something like Bey.
+
+I waited till three o'clock, P.M., for my servants, and Said of Haj
+Beshir, to come and bring the oxen for the rest of the baggage--the boat
+and the heavy baggage left in the morning; and seeing no signs of their
+preparation, I determined to be no longer duped by them, and told the
+servant of Haj Beshir that I would start to-day, be the consequence what
+it might. So off I went to the Shereef, and told him I must go at once,
+to follow the Kashalla, who had taken away the box in which was the
+chronometer, and I must go to wind it up early in the morning. He
+immediately informed the Sarkee, and asked for a soldier. A soldier was
+forthwith brought, and a message from the Sarkee, that the horse which
+had been sent for me to ride upon was a present from his highness to me.
+This is the first present of the kind I have received in Africa; and
+after giving away about five hundred pounds sterling of Government money
+I have got in return, at last, a horse worth one pound fifteen shillings
+and fourpence, the current value of this country! The Sarkee of Zinder
+is miserably poor, but he was afraid to let me go to Kuka, to his
+master, without giving me a present.
+
+I started from Zinder, riding my "gift horse," about an hour before
+sunset, and arrived at Dairmummegai, a very large village, where the
+Kashalla had pitched tent, after three hours' ride. Our course was due
+east, through a scattered forest of dwarf-trees, in which were
+fluttering about a number of strange-looking birds, that reminded me I
+was in a foreign land. One solitary bird excited my pity; its form was
+something like that of a small crane, but, verily, it was most
+disproportionally thin, with very long neck and shanky legs. It was
+wandering about as if it had lost itself in the world; and yet a bird
+losing itself in the world is a strange notion! We met a couple of
+huntsmen, on the shoulders of one of whom was coiled a fine bleeding
+gazelle. These huntsmen had only bows and arrows, and they had managed
+to get a gazelle, whilst we, with all our matchlocks and muskets, had
+never been able to shoot one of these animals during our eight or nine
+months of passage through the desert. The Kashalla was exceedingly glad
+at my arrival, and got ready a bowl of new milk. He is a man of some
+fifty or sixty years of age, black, and with Bornou features, speaking a
+little Arabic. The greater part of the Bornou people know a few words of
+this language. The Sheikh sent him to bring the boat and our baggage. He
+is a friendly, quiet man, whilst the man sent by Haj Beshir, Said, is an
+impudent slave, and only thinking of what he can get by his journey.
+
+I saw, as I passed through the streets of Zinder this morning, a number
+of slaves chained together, going to the market of Kanou; so that this
+place is the great central depot of this merchandise. These were some of
+the fruits of the Sarkee's last razzia.
+
+_9th._--The morning was cool, and we started early, and made six hours
+and a-quarter in a general south-east direction, through a continuation
+of scattered forests, with open spaces, the wood being broken in upon
+here and there by a scanty ghaseb cultivation. Amongst the trees, some
+rose with giant arms and all the characters of tropical vegetation. The
+country was undulating, with ranges of low hills. Blocks of granite were
+scattered on the surface of the ground; in the deeper valleys lay
+stagnant water of the last rains, fast drying up; and here were
+water-fowls, waders, and some large, strange, black-and-white geese,
+with necks of enormous length.
+
+After three hours and a-quarter we came to the considerable village of
+Deddegi, where, on our appearance, all the inhabitants fetching water or
+tending cattle ran away. This I may remark, as the first time that the
+people ran away at our appearance amongst them. Hitherto we have always
+had the population pressing upon us for curiosity, or to attack and
+plunder us. Things change. But the flight of the people of Deddegi is
+easily explained. We were soon recognised as a Bornou caravan, and the
+Bornouese in coming to Zinder,--the Sheikh's people especially,--have
+been in the habit of plundering these villages, or carrying off the
+people and their cattle, the former into slavery. Recently the Sarkee
+has complained of this, and the Sheikh, to do him justice, has ordered
+the Sarkee to seize any Bornouese committing these misdemeanours, and
+execute what justice he pleases upon them. The Sarkee, now, will not be
+slack to obey his master's commands. Still it is not surprising the
+people ran away from a Bornou caravan.
+
+We encamped at the group of villages called Dairmu. My "gift horse" had
+given me most excruciating pain in riding, and I was obliged to dismount
+for half an hour. The saddles are very bad, and cut you raw before you
+are accustomed to them. But I must submit to this fatigue, for now I
+must ride horses and put away the camel, which is too slow for
+travelling in Soudan, where water and herbage are found for the horses
+every two or three hours.
+
+After I was somewhat recovered, I went to see the village, and found all
+the people working upon cotton; some cleaning it, some winding it into
+balls, and others weaving the gubaga, or narrow strips of cotton cloth,
+with which the greater number of the population are clothed. A small
+portion of the cotton-twist is dyed with indigo, and with this and the
+undyed a species of check-cotton cloth is woven; but all very rude. The
+Sheikh of the place supplied the caravan with bazeen. For myself I
+purchased a couple of fowls, which cost just twopence farthing in
+English money: they were, however, small; and I may remark that all
+fowls are small in this country, and most of the domestic animals, like
+horses, sheep, dogs, cats, &c. are diminutive when compared to those of
+Europe. The bullocks, however, are of a good size, with branching horns.
+The sheep have no wool, or rather, the wool takes the appearance and
+substance of hair, like that of a dog; and their tails, too, are like
+those of dogs; but, indeed, the Soudan sheep are well known. No fruit or
+vegetables are found in these villages: not even onions, common in most
+places. The birds have all a strange appearance. I am no naturalist, and
+wonder when I should examine. That filthy species of vulture, the
+scavenger of Zinder, is seen in twos and threes. The woods abound in
+turtle-doves. I gave the Kashalla a ring for himself and his female
+slave, or wife, as it may be. Very few men of this sort have wives: all
+their women are slaves. He was greatly pleased with the present.
+
+_10th._--My thermometer remains behind with the baggage at Zinder,
+expected to-day. Here we wait for it, and the rest of the caravan. I
+oiled myself well last night with olive oil, and feel much better this
+morning. During a walk through the villages, I observed that two-thirds
+of the male population, as in Zinder, are quite idle, lounging about, or
+stretched at their full length upon the dust of the ground. A third find
+something to do, either in working on cotton, or making matting, or in
+the gardens, where tobacco, pepper, cotton, and indigo are grown. These
+are the staple products of the gardens in this part of Africa. The women
+have always something to occupy their time, suckling their children,
+fetching water, cooking, or else picking cotton. All the males, I
+imagine, at some seasons of the year, find occupation, when the ghaseb
+is sown and when reaped. But, nevertheless, what powerfully solicits the
+observation of the European in looking into these villages is the
+downright livelong idleness of the male population.
+
+We begin, at length, to regard this region merely as the nursery-ground
+of slavery--of the system which takes away the idlers to perform their
+share of the curse pronounced on Adam, that in the sweat of his brow he
+should eat and earn his bread. Again it is to be observed, that the
+wants of these people are very few: they live on ghaseb and milk, eating
+little meat; these come to them almost without labour. The ground is
+tilled by burning the stubble of the previous year, or by burning the
+trees on new land. The seed is thrown in when the rain begins, and
+nothing more is done till the grain is ripe for the sickle, when it is
+gathered in. It is collected under small sheds made of matting, and
+eaten as it is wanted. The cattle are mostly driven to graze and to
+water, and this is all the attention they require. The cotton furnishes
+a scanty clothing, deemed sufficient; all the children go naked till
+they are ten years old, or only wear a piece of cotton, leather, or a
+skin round their loins. The men of some consequence buy a tobe brought
+from Kanou or Niffee; the women purchase a few beads and other ornaments
+with their fowls or ghaseb. The bowls or household utensils are made
+from gourds, in shape like a cucumber, but straight, with a knob at the
+end; they are slit in two, and thus form two spoons, the concave head of
+the gourd serving as the bowl, the other part as the handle. These
+calabashes, some of which are pretty, are hung up within the huts as
+ornaments. On peeping into these huts, nothing is seen but these said
+calabashes, except the strings or nets by which they are suspended on
+the sides of the huts. As you enter there is always a partition-wall on
+your right hand, and a round entrance at the further end of the hut to
+this part, partitioned off. This space, so divided off, is the
+sleeping-place, where there is a raised bench of mud, or a bedstead made
+of cane or wickers. A few utensils for culture, an axe and a hoe, may be
+mentioned, all made by native blacksmiths, of the rudest description.
+Iron is found in the native rocks of Soudan, and is not imported. The
+greatest skill of the African blacksmith is, alas! shown in forging the
+manacles for slaves. I must mention that many of the huts have walls of
+clay, and roofs only of thatch or matting. The grain-stacks are also
+raised a foot or two from the ground, on stakes, to prevent the ghaseb
+getting wet during the rainy season. Thus it is that these children of
+Africa live a life of simplicity little above pure savages, and I may
+add, a life of comparative idleness, and perhaps happiness, in their
+point of view.
+
+Yesterday our Kashalla made a move to say his prayers. He was surrounded
+by the people who came with him from Zinder and Bornou, and the
+inhabitants of Dairmu. He prayed, but prayed alone, none following his
+example! It is quite clear that all the black population hereabouts are
+only nominal Muslims, and remain in heart pure Hazna, or pagans. Those
+who do pray, pray very little indeed; there is no sensual charin or
+allurement in Mahommedanism for the African mind, whilst its fasts and
+commands of abstinence from strong drinks deter thousands from embracing
+the religion of the false Prophet. It cannot allure the African by
+polygamy, because the African has as many women as he pleases by the
+permission of his native superstition. Islamism, therefore, takes no
+hold of the native African mind. There are a few Tuaricks scattered
+amongst all this population, but living generally out of the villages by
+themselves; they are all subjects of the Sheikh, and have escaped the
+desert to lead an easier life in Soudan. It is strange that some of the
+Tuarick women are enormously corpulent, whilst a corpulent woman is not
+found amongst the blacks. I must add, that the morality of these black
+villages seems of a much higher and purer kind than that of the Tuarick
+villages of Asben. Here they do not look upon woman, as in Asben, simply
+in the light of an instrument of pleasure: but I fear this will soon
+change. What morality, indeed, can there be without higher and more
+binding motives?
+
+I was much pleased with the condescension of the Kashalla in furnishing
+me with information on routes, and gave him a head of sugar. He is a man
+of great generosity, and immediately divided it amongst his people. He
+says he never leaves the Sheikh's presence, and it was solely on account
+of me that the Sheikh sent him to fetch me from Zinder. If this be true,
+their sovereign has paid a high compliment to the Mission.
+
+The only character whom I could discover in Dairmu was the constable, or
+general police-officer. This was an ill-looking fellow, with one eye
+damaged,--a most unamiable Dogberry. He approached the Kashalla twice,
+keeping, however, at a timid distance, kneeling down and throwing the
+dust in handfulls over his head, in the most abject manner. Yet this man
+was the dread of the whole neighbourhood! The exercise of all
+disagreeable employments seems to debase man. Before his superiors he
+crouches and grovels in dust; with the people he commands, he is a very
+tyrant!
+
+_10th._--I was joined yesterday evening by the rest of the caravan,
+Said, and Moknee, and my new interpreter. Said brings goods for Haj
+Beshir. We started early, and made seven hours; our route varying
+between east and south-east, through a fine wavy country, rising at
+times into high hills, with few trees in comparison to what we have
+hitherto had, and a good deal of cultivation, all ghaseb. The sandy soil
+is well adapted for this kind of grain. A ridge of quartz rocks strikes
+up through the sand. The rocky hills are mostly granite. The atmosphere
+was cooled by an easterly wind. We pitched tent, or rather halted, at a
+cluster of villages of considerable size, the principal of which is
+Guddemuni. They are all placed on hills. In the deep valley near is a
+large lake, towards the east, about two hours long and half-an-hour
+wide. In the dry season the people cultivate, by irrigation from the
+lake, a quantity of wheat, which they export to Kanou. Besides wheat,
+they raise ghaseb on the hill tops; and in the gardens, cotton, indigo,
+tobacco, onions, pepper, dates (bearing twice a-year), henna, potatoes
+(_dankali_), the palm (_geginya_),--bearing a large fruit (_gonda_),
+like the mealy melon,--gourds, rogo, and gwaza; which last are two
+species of potatoes. Some large trees are planted like the kuka, the
+fruit of which is used for sauce.
+
+To-day the Kashalla rode up to several men wandering in the fields,
+hunting, and attempted to impose some labour on them. This was a signal
+for a general stoppage of all foot-passengers, who were met by his
+people, for one purpose or another, either to take from them any little
+articles, or to vex them. They did not, however, stop two people we met,
+but gave them full leave to pass. Who were these? One was a man who, by
+disease, had become all over of a light flesh-colour, his black skin
+peeling off. It was a perfect phenomenon--a man with strong negro
+features, entirely white, or of a light dull-red colour. The other man
+was a miserable, filthy, blind fellow, whom the first invalid was
+leading. They were, in fact, a couple of mendicants going to Zinder on
+speculation, having come from Kuka, begging through all the towns and
+villages. The trade of begging is coextensive with man, civilised or
+uncivilised, in towns or country. Africa has a good number of this
+industrious class of people.
+
+The language of this cluster of villages is Haussa, like that of Zinder,
+the "Haussa of the North," as it is called: it varies a little from the
+pure Haussa of Kashna and Kanou. The people of this place were all
+excessively civil. I walked out in the evening, and saw about thirty of
+the maidens of Guddemuni (one of the villages) encircling a female
+dancer, who kept pacing to the sound of a rude guitar. At the sight of
+me they all made off. The poor blacks in these villages always expect
+that the white man comes to bring them into slavery. Afterwards I went
+to salute the Sultan. We saw him during two minutes; he kept rubbing his
+hands, as if he were cold. He was a sinister-looking man, dressed in a
+white tobe; he had not the least suspicion of what a Christian might be.
+I made the acquaintance of the taste of the doom-palm, in a dish of
+pastry seasoned by it. The taste is something like rhubarb, only a
+little sharper.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVIII.
+
+A Village plundered--Shaidega--Animals--Our Biscuit--Villages _en
+route_--Minyo--Respect for Learning--Monotony of the Country--A
+Wedding--Palsy--Slave-agents--Kal, Kal--Birni Gamatak--Tuaricks on the
+Plain--Palms--Sight the Town of Gurai--Bare Country--Bearings of various
+Places--Province of Minyo--Visit the Sultan--Audience-room--Fine
+Costume--A Scene of Barbaric Splendour--Trade--Estimate of Wealth--How
+to amuse a Prince--Small Present--The Oars carried by Men--Town of
+Gurai--Fortifications.
+
+
+_Feb. 11th._--I rose early, and started as usual, as quick as possible.
+We made seven hours and a-half, and halted at a small village called
+Bogussa. After the fifth hour we came to the hamlet of Dugurka, which
+the Kashalla delivered up to plunder, because the people refused to give
+him some water. This is the story of my servants, which I do not
+believe. But certain it is, that, after the Kashalla passed the hamlet,
+his people, who loitered behind, commenced a general pillage of the poor
+little village. The inhabitants had all fled at our approach, save one
+old man. All the hut-doors were violently torn away and the insides
+ransacked. The spoils were leben, bowls or calabashes, bows and arrows,
+axes, and some other trifles. Of live-stock, all the fowls were seized
+and slaughtered on the spot; also a lamb. My interpreter tells me that
+all the slaves of the Government of Bornou are marauders, and that it
+was for this reason the Sarkee of Zinder complained to the Sheikh of the
+government caravans seizing the people and sacking their villages. In
+all my life I never saw such an instance of the triumph of might over
+right. My servants, most of them Bornouese, joined their brethren with
+great eagerness. To remonstrate with them is useless. I have had several
+quarrels of remonstrance already since I have been in the Sheikh's
+territory, about similar acts of brigandage; and if I go on, I shall
+quarrel with all the world of Africa, every hour of the day. I
+reproached my servants ironically. I told them some one would soon come
+and take their camels and bullocks, and they must not complain to me to
+get them redress. But it is astonishing to see with what zest these
+freed slaves from the north coast enter again upon their old habits of
+plunder and razzia. The education of Africa consists in preparing it for
+the razzia. All the fine-spirited youth of all the great families look
+forward to this as their only occupation.
+
+We reached the rocky hills called Shaidega, near which the lake
+terminates, stretching from Guddemuni. At the base of these rocky
+heights is a sprinkling of huts, and there are indeed many sprinklings
+of huts which cannot be mentioned all along this route. The hill tops
+have no longer the naked appearance of the Saharan rocks, but are
+clothed and crowned with trees. The country is very fine and park-like,
+and were it not for the doom-palm, would be more like some of the best
+parts of Europe than Africa is supposed to be. The animals seen to day
+were two wild boars and some wild oxen. A couple of lions, a male and a
+female, come out nearly every night and serenade the villagers of
+Bogussa at their hut doors. The filthy vultures of Zinder are spread
+through all this fine country. Many doves and water-fowl were seen. We
+forded several stagnant streams of water, but of very small magnitude.
+
+I sheltered myself in the afternoon under a magnificent tree, called in
+Bornouese _kamdu_, and in Soudanese, _samia_. We are beginning to see
+very fine trees, casting an impervious shade, under which the weary
+traveller deliciously reposes in the hot clime. To-day I suffered most
+dreadfully from my horse; with a camel I should have felt nothing, but I
+must submit: there is no remedy.
+
+I believe the Kashalla to be a very good man, and above his plundering
+countrymen generally, but habit induces him to wink at the acts of
+brigandage committed by his people. I observed him yesterday stop a
+little boy with a load on his head, and tell him to run away from the
+people coming up, and take another road, that the caravan might not
+plunder him.
+
+I had an affair with Yusuf yesterday morning: two boxes of biscuit had
+been left entire in his room at Zinder, and now one of them was found
+opened and a quantity of the biscuit taken out. He and his son have
+eaten nearly all the biscuit on the road, together with the Sfaxee and
+others. It is preposterous to think that Government sent these biscuits
+for them, who can eat ghaseb, ghafouley, and any grain of this country,
+and thrive on such food. The Germans gave away their biscuit,
+complaining that it was an embarrassment to them. This encouraged the
+people to plunder me of mine, and now I have little left for the rest of
+my travelling in Africa during the present journey.
+
+_12th._--We started early; the weather always cool, with fresh breezes
+from the east. All our people seem in good health. I got up rather
+stiff, having had a good fall from my horse yesterday. We made only
+three hours and a-half, part north-east and the rest due east. When I
+dismounted I felt less fatigued, and wrote up my journal. We passed
+several villages _en route_ during these few hours; they occur, indeed,
+only about half-an-hour apart: viz. first in order after Bogussa,
+Gerremari, then Lekarari, Algari, a village of fighi pedagogues,
+Giddejer, and then Collori, where we have halted. It is said we shall
+still be three days before we get to the Sultan Minyo, and we have to
+pass Gamatak, Barataua, Birmi, Wonchi, Tungari, and finally, on the
+third day, early, we are to arrive at Gurai, the capital, governed by
+Minyo or Minyoma. Bogussa is the first district under the sway of this
+personage. We have in his name a remarkable instance of how in Africa
+names of cities and countries are confounded with those of their
+provinces. Hitherto, I and my interpreter had always taken it for
+granted that Minyo was the name of the capital of the province, not of
+the prince; so we understood from everybody, and only to-day we learn
+that Gurai is the name of the capital, whilst the province is called
+after the name of the prince, i.e. Minyo, or Minyoma.[21]
+
+ [21] It is worth while leaving this mistake of Mr. Richardson
+      or his informants, as an illustration of the great
+      difficulty that exists in eliciting accurate facts from
+      natives of Africa and other uncivilised countries.--ED.
+
+Our route this morning lay through a remarkably fine district, teeming
+with fertility, and requiring only the hand of industry to render it the
+richest country in the world. Not a ten-thousandth part of the soil is
+cultivated. We met a troop of schoolboys with their masters; their
+boards, bedaubed with Arabic characters, would have been an effectual
+protection for them against a troop of horsemen a thousand times larger
+than ours. But, nevertheless, a poor woman, or a girl with a bowl of
+milk or a little butter, could not pass unscathed. Such is morality
+here. May there not, however, be some promise in this respect for
+education? A woodman left his axe a moment on the roadside; one of our
+troopers immediately went off and seized it. The woodman, returning,
+followed the trooper to the Kashalla, and falling down, and throwing
+dust over his head, begged for his axe as for his life. The Kashalla
+could not withstand the appeal, and ordered his trooper to restore the
+axe. The fellow had concealed the axe, and it was lucky the owner
+discovered the thief so soon. The poor man went away very thankful,
+thanking me also. I believe I may be some check on these depredations,
+for I told my interpreter last night that I never saw a village, or any
+people, pillaged in the Christian countries; in fact, that I could not
+have hitherto believed that men could do the things which I saw done
+that day by the servants of the Kashalla. It is probable he will mention
+what I said to some one, and it will get to the ears of the said
+Kashalla. The Africans, in plundering one another, appear as if they
+were avenging some old grudge; as if they remembered the various
+occasions when they themselves had been pillaged. They rob with
+wonderful _gusto_.
+
+A monotonous uniformity begins to prevail over all these tracts. I am
+afraid I shall soon get tired of this negro population and these towns,
+all built and all peopled in the same manner. They seem remarkably
+curious at first, but curiosity soon palls.
+
+We have with us the Hajah, mentioned before. She is very quiet, being
+_passee_, and also afraid of the Sheikh's people.
+
+I went round the village and found some five hundred or six hundred
+people nestled together. All the villages which we passed to-day have a
+similar population. I saw the preparations for a wedding; it was a most
+amusing sight. Two enclosures were crowded with people, all busy; but
+the busiest were those grinding corn for the marriage-feast. The
+bridegroom was with one group, haranguing them in the most persevering
+manner, and rattling a hollow gourd filled with small stones. The group
+replied in chorus, all on their knees, bending forward, rubbing grain
+between two stones. The other group went on by themselves. Then, in an
+enclosure close by, was the bride, attended with, all her maiden
+friends, jammed together in a hut, all busy, doing nobody knows what. It
+was with great difficulty I could get a peep at her. The bride and her
+friends were distinguished by having a sort of brass nail-head driven
+through the right nostril of their noses. Good big boys were running
+about quite naked. But the conduct of the people, old and young, was
+quite decent.
+
+The bridegroom followed me to my tent, rattling his calabash for a
+present, singing my praises cheaply enough, for I gave him a very small
+present indeed. They have no set songs; all their singing is extempore.
+
+Afterwards I saw a man afflicted with palsy in his head. He applied to
+me for a remedy, but I could only recommend him to bathe himself every
+day in warm water, which will never be done; for these people are too
+indolent to perform any labour of this kind, even if it be to save their
+lives.
+
+My new interpreter, Mohammed, pretends that slave servants, or agents,
+are thought more of, that is, are more useful, than free people in
+Bornou. This may be accounted for by the absolute control which a master
+can exercise over his slave.
+
+The thermometer at sunset ranges 84 deg.. It was very warm this afternoon.
+
+Here and there an ostrich egg tops the conical roofs of the huts, from
+Damerghou to this place. I showed the people my watch, and put it to
+their ears that they might hear it tick, tick; and I may observe a
+singularity on this. The people did not say, "Oh! how it ticks!" but
+"Kal, kal!" so that kal, kal, is the sound which we express by tick,
+tick, in our language.
+
+_13th._--As usual, we rose before sunrise, and started as soon as
+possible. We made four hours in the forenoon, and rested at a well
+called Birni Gamatak. The village is near the well, but we did not go to
+it. From this place to the Tuarick country, Gurasu, there are four short
+days; but the road has no water in this season. The Kaid of the village
+paid us a visit, and brought us ghaseb-water. I amused him and his
+people with my watch and compass. After resting till 4 P.M. we started
+again. At Birni Gamatak a zone of mountainous country begins, consisting
+of granite, gneiss, and other varieties of primitive rocks. We had a
+magnificent ride through a fine rocky country. After one hour and a-half
+we passed Wonchi to the right, or south of us; a small village. On the
+route we had a boundless vista through the hills, over a vast plain,
+covered with a scattered forest, extending without end towards the
+north. This country is overrun by Tuaricks; all, however, living in
+friendship with the Sheikh. We made five hours and a-half, always east,
+so that we did not arrive at Tungari till long after daylight. Tungari
+consists of two or three considerable villages, having a population of
+about two thousand. Here I saw a greater number of date-trees than I had
+yet seen in Soudan. There were larger plantations, and many gardens. I
+have nothing particular to observe respecting this place, except that
+the people showed more boldness than the population subjected to the
+Sultan of Zinder; because the Sultan of Minyo gives them more protection
+against the Bornou marauders, or Government servants, travelling through
+the country. I went to bed thoroughly fatigued.
+
+_14th._--We rose at daybreak and went off immediately, and made four
+hours north-east, and then from a fine rising ground had a splendid view
+of all the town of Gurai. Our route yesterday and to-day began in a
+south-easterly direction, and after continuing east for some time
+gradually turned round to north-east, so that we have our faces again
+toward the northern desert. Yesterday I felt, for the first time, this
+approaching warm season--a hot wind, which, curiously enough, now comes
+from the north, whereas before it always came from the south.
+
+Gurai is very bare of trees, the townspeople having burnt them all up. I
+kept a-bed all day, to recruit myself from fatigue. The Kashalla went to
+salute the Sultan, who inquired after me. They reported my state, and
+said I should come to see him in the morning (i.e. of next day).
+
+According to a Gatronee, Kellai, a country of the Tuaricks, is one day
+only north-west from Gurai. It is a small village. Gurasu is five days
+from this, north-west. Dallakauri, also a Tuarick country, is one day
+northwards, or north-east. This is a large place. Bultumi, another
+Tuarick country, small; one day, east. Malumri, one day and a-half east.
+Therrai, a small place, a day beyond Dallakauri, north-west, two days
+from this. Chokada, a small place, five or six hours from this. All
+these places are inhabited by the Tuarick tribe of Duggera, viz. Kellai,
+Gurasu, Dallakauri, Bultumi, Malumri, Therrai, and Chokada. This tribe
+infests the upper part of the route of Bornou, that between the Tibboos
+and Kuka. Formerly they were great bandits, but now they fear the Sultan
+of Minyo, and begin to desist from their bad trade and turn to more
+peaceful habits. Bunai is one day and a-half south from Buroi, formerly
+the capital of the province of Minyo, and where the father of the
+present Sultan resided. It is a little less than Burai. Here we are told
+that, after all, Minyo is _not_ the name of the Sultan, as before
+mentioned, but the name of the province, which is sometimes called
+Minyoma, as being more euphonic; but all people love harmony in
+language. This province is considered the most powerful of the empire of
+Bornou.
+
+_15th._--Having selected my present for his highness the Sultan,
+consisting of a piece of cotton velvet for a tobe (ten mahboubs), a head
+of sugar, a little cinnamon and cloves, a piece of muslin for turbans,
+and a cotton handkerchief, I paid my visit under the escort of the
+Kashalla, and the Sultan's major-domo, a man carrying a large stick with
+a great knob at the end. We went straight to the palace, a considerable
+building, built of clay, like the Sultan's house at Zinder, in the shape
+of a fort or castle.
+
+We were first ushered into an audience-room or hall, of large
+dimensions, with little light, adapted for an African climate. It is
+newly built, and indeed not yet finished. The architecture is the same
+as the public buildings or houses of the chief officers in Kuka. Here we
+waited a quarter of an hour, during which time the people poured in from
+all quarters. At length we were ushered into the presence. I found the
+Sultan to be a good-looking black, with features not much stamped with
+the negro character. He was about the age of forty-five or fifty. His
+costume was truly royal, consisting of a loose tobe of purple silk, and
+a black burnouse, embroidered, thrown over it. He wore a turban of
+Egyptian form, and very handsome. His highness received me very affably,
+and I took my seat near him, on a pic-nic stool which I have with me. I
+shook hands, and doffed my hat. There was no throwing of dust about, as
+at Zinder. But we found the Sultan already seated, with all his
+courtiers and officers around him. His highness asked about my health,
+and the Tuaricks. He observed, "The Tuaricks are afraid of you." Some
+persons of that tribe, perhaps, have given him this false view of the
+case, pretending that the Tuaricks are afraid I am come to spy out the
+country, to be taken possession hereafter by the Queen. His highness
+minutely scanned all my European clothes, making many inquiries about
+them. All the people were highly delighted to see me throw aside my
+miserable Soudan tobe, and dress in my European costume. In fact, I
+don't know what I should have done without these clothes. The people
+then pulled off my boots, and burst out into an involuntary exclamation
+of astonishment when they saw my white leg under my stocking. My face
+and hands are both pretty well tanned, and the quality of the European
+skin is not so visible as in the parts of the body covered. His highness
+then inquired whether there was war in Europe, and whether peace existed
+between England and the Porte. He was very anxious to continue his
+questions, but there being two or three hundred persons present, he was
+obliged to defer them till the evening. I was much gratified with the
+sight. It was really a scene of African state, but without deformities.
+There was no blood, no slaying of victims, no abject ceremonies; nothing
+to offend the eye of the European. We merely saw, seated on a raised
+platform, a black, robed in barbaric style of splendour, with a hundred
+courtiers and officers squatted on the ground him, all humble beings,
+but not abject.
+
+On returning, his highness sent our caravan four bullocks, to be
+slaughtered for our use. To-day was market-day, but there was no stock
+of consequence here, there being little foreign commerce. There may be a
+score of foreign merchants, nearly all from Fezzan, but they are mere
+traders, and only bring a few things for the Sultan and his chief
+officers. These merchants say that there is no money here, nor, indeed,
+in Bornou.
+
+The place for money is Kanou. All the wealth of Central Africa is,
+according to them, concentrated there. Kanou is, in fact, the London of
+Soudan. I asked a merchant here, who was accounted rich; that is, who
+was a _Maidukia_? He replied, "One with property to the amount of a
+thousand dollars." Even a man with five hundred is accounted a somebody.
+Such is the estimate of wealth here. I expect to find all Bornou
+miserably poor.
+
+In the evening I waited again on his highness, according to appointment.
+He had descended from his throne, and divested himself of all his
+splendour, being now dressed in a plain tobe and burnouse. He received
+us squatted on a carpet upon the ground, in an inner court, and reminded
+me much of a stage king who had undressed after the performance. I
+produced all my wonderful things to amuse his highness,--my compass,
+spyglass, kaleidoscope, spectacles, peepshow, &c. In this way I amused
+him for an hour, he the while asking questions about my personal habits.
+Our people then told him the sovereign of England was a woman. "_Kamo?_"
+To which I replied, "_Kamo._" I was then requested to read some English,
+which I did from Milton. I always exhibit a small edition of Milton's
+poetry, with gilt edges and morocco binding, which greatly surprises all
+people accustomed to the use of books. The Kashalla then told his
+highness that I washed my face and hands continually, but did not pray.
+I explained through my interpreter that now, in a foreign country, I
+read my prayers, and that we had the Gospel; and he added, "The Zebour,"
+Psalms of David. All educated Muslims are acquainted with or have heard
+of the Psalms of David. I take out a copy of the Gospel and Psalms in
+Arabic, that every educated Mahommedan may see that we English are not
+the En-Sara or Kerdies of Africa, but have a God and a religion. The
+inconvenience of this is, that it leads sometimes to talking and
+disputing on religion, not always in season. A prudent man, however,
+will evade all difficulties without compromising his belief. We had
+again present a hundred people, or more, and his highness was disturbed
+at the number, but did not like to send them away. He asked me how old I
+was; and of my servants, whether I was married, &c.
+
+I returned pleased with my visit, although I lost one of my peepshows;
+for the Kashalla was foolish enough to tell me to give it to his
+highness. This is the danger of exhibiting these things. I took to the
+prince a small present of rings, silk, bracelets, and a necklace of mock
+pearls for his ladies; and hope to get back my peepshow by exchanging it
+for some such trinkets. This was a cool day, with a fresh breeze
+continually blowing.
+
+_16th._--I rose in a quieter state, though I have been much fatigued
+these last few days. It is expected we shall be here two or three days
+more. Fifteen days is the time allowed for our journey from this to
+Kuka. The people display greater curiosity to see me than the
+inhabitants of Zinder, this province being more out of the way of
+strangers. Yesterday, on returning from the palace, I had a hundred
+people at my heels.
+
+The mode of salutation for a sultan is peculiar in these provinces. It
+consists in holding up and back the lower part of the arm, and moving it
+up and down--to denote strength, probably; an intimation of local
+strength, as well as that of the body generally. I have been often
+saluted in this manner, and the mode is employed to strangers or any
+distinguished person.
+
+N.B.--The people of Kanem have not the shonshona.
+
+The oars of the boat are now carried, as the people say, by Ben-Adam
+(children of Adam, i.e. men). It is certainly more difficult to get them
+through these African forests than over the rocks of Sahara on the
+camel's back. Five servants of the Sultan of Zinder left this morning,
+having brought them thus far, to return. I gave them a little present of
+wada and rings.
+
+Gurai is somewhat smaller than Zinder, having a population of perhaps
+seven thousand souls. I have overrated the population of Zinder: that
+city, probably, does not contain more than ten thousand souls, if so
+many. On emerging from the Saharan Desert, where we had been accustomed
+to bestow the name of town upon great scattered villages, with a few
+hundred inhabitants, Zinder appeared to me quite a capital city. The
+town of Gurai is scattered about on several hills, and down their
+slopes. These hills are bare of trees and vegetation.
+
+There is a dry ditch surrounding the town. It answers the purpose of a
+fortification, especially as its effect is aided by a thickset hedge. At
+some places this hedge is growing; at others, it consists merely of
+branches cut from various trees, but rendered almost impenetrable by
+being made broad and thick. These defences are quite effectual in the
+kind of wars carried on in these regions.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIX.
+
+Fezzanee Traders--Sultan in want of Medicine--The Stud--Letters--Yusuf's
+Conduct--Architecture--Fragment of the History of Minyo--Politics
+of Zinder--Bornouese Fish--Visits--Two Routes--Dancing by
+Moonlight--Richness--Fires--Information on Boushi and Adamaua--The
+Yamyam--Liver Complaints--A Girl's Game--Desert Country--Gift Camel--Few
+Living Creatures--Village of Gusumana--Environs--The Doom
+Fruit--Brothers of Sultan of Sakkatou--Stupid Kadi--Showing off--Hot
+Weather--[Final Note--Death of Mr. Richardson.]
+
+
+I had visits yesterday from all the Fezzanee traders. These people, as
+at Zinder, and everywhere at Soudan, sell their goods at a high price to
+the Sultan, and then are obliged to wait six or seven months for their
+money, eating up all their profits. No wonder the poor fellows rarely
+get rich, but remain, on the contrary, always miserably poor. The same
+is the case throughout all Soudan. To-day my tent was thronged with
+visitors, before whom I am obliged to exhibit myself, or show my
+curiosities. Among others, I had a visit from some people who came from
+Gobter, distant four hours south, on purpose to see me; and, moreover,
+had a call from some ladies nearly related to the Sultan. They all
+wanted medicine, but for what they could not tell; so I gave them each a
+taste of Epsom. This made them relish a bit of sugar, which I distribute
+to them afterwards, and which appeased their grimaces and disgust. I am
+pestered to death for medicines, and have visitors without number.
+
+The Sultan sent word this morning to know if I had anything to sell, any
+fine things from the Christian countries, for he wished to buy them. Our
+people returned for answer that I was not a merchant, but belonged to
+the Queen. He then begged me to give him a small quantity of my
+medicines, for he had heard I had most wonderful drugs;--would I favour
+him with some of every kind, that he might be prepared for all possible
+complaints which might attack him hereafter, when I was gone? For the
+present he is suffering from pains in all his joints; and requests, in
+the first place, to be relieved from them. Compliance with these demands
+was, of course, necessary. I therefore packed up small quantities of
+emetics, acetate of lead, worm-powders, and Epsom, and also a little
+camphor, and a little sticking-plaster, with a small bottle of Eau de
+Cologne. With these I went to pay my respects. We found the Sultan in a
+small private apartment. He was in an inquisitive mood, and began by
+asking me all manner of questions, the subjects ranging from the affairs
+of kings and princes down to the handkerchief round my neck. I should
+observe that the Sultan requested Yusuf to taste the medicines before he
+delivered them up to him, to see that there was no blood in them. So he
+tasted the salts and the jalap; but I told him that the acetate of lead
+was poison, and we wrote _sem_ upon all the packets. It surprised him
+that we should administer poison to the eyes.
+
+After the interview his servants showed me his horses. They were but
+ill-formed animals, some heavily built, and others miserable-looking
+creatures. Yet these are the pick of the whole country, and some have
+been lately brought from Sakkatou, as the best which could be exported
+from that quarter.
+
+In the afternoon another slave of Haj Beshir arrived from Zinder,
+seeking for me. He had brought a letter, but had orders if he did not
+find me to return it to Kuka; so that I shall be without news until my
+arrival. He, however, just knows that a caravan came from Mourzuk in
+thirty-nine days, bringing this letter, which was forwarded to me. It
+comes direct from Tripoli. There are three letters for me!
+
+This evening my new interpreter came with a long trumped-up story, as to
+what the Sultan had said respecting my quarrel with Yusuf. His highness
+was represented to have expressed a strong desire that we might be
+reconciled before we arrived at Kuka. I cannot tell whether this be true
+or false. Probably they have attempted to get the Sultan to speak to me
+about Yusuf. This is always the case. These people do you as much injury
+as they please on the road, and when they are near a place which makes
+them afraid, they get a number of people to come and persuade you to say
+that they are very good fellows. It is quite clear that Yusuf has stolen
+several things on the road. The last thing missed is a large quantity of
+cloves. It is difficult to know how to act on these occasions.
+
+_17th._--I took Epsom, and feel better.
+
+The architectural ornaments of the palace of Gurai resemble those of the
+houses of Ghat. The walls are covered with little recesses, of various
+shapes; the moulding consists of a series of lozenges; the pillars by
+which the ceiling is supported are of immense thickness. In these large
+halls, on a level with the ground, there are always raised seats of
+earth, on which are spread carpets, and lion and leopard skins.
+
+By the way, this country seems clear of animals. They are all either
+hunted down, or driven into thicker shades and forests.
+
+All these provinces have their histories preserved traditionally. The
+father of the present Sultan of Gurai, named Ibrahim, was a most
+determined fellow. He slew no less than seven sultans appointed to take
+his place. The Sheikh, in the first instance, sent a large army to
+dispossess him. Before superior forces he retired to a mountain, where
+he was unattackable. The new Sultan was installed, and the troops of
+Bornou returned to Kuka. As soon as they were gone, Ibrahim descended
+the mountains with his slaves, and fell upon the new prince, butchering
+him and his people. Then he wrote to Kuka: "I am under God and you." The
+Sheikh, enraged at this conduct, sent another force against him, as
+before. Ibrahim once more retired to his stronghold, and after the
+Bornou forces had returned to Kuka, again descended from his mountain,
+and butchered the new prince as before. And this he repeated seven
+times, so that at last the Sheikh, seeing the impossibility of
+continuing the war with such a vassal, allowed him to have quiet
+possession of the province of Minyo. His son Goso, now sultan, is also a
+very spirited fellow; but he is on good terms with the Sheikh, and
+observed to me, "What Kuka (the Sheikh) does, I do; as what Stamboul
+does, so does Tripoli." Goso, or Gausau, is certainly a very polite
+prince, and a very accomplished man. To him the Sultan of Zinder is a
+mere slave.
+
+There is some news about the Sultan of Zinder. It appears that Sarkee
+Ibrahim feels himself weak, and unable to conduct the government of the
+province prosperously, i.e. "to go on razzia;" so he wrote for his
+brother to come and undertake the command of the slave-hunts. The
+brother spoke to the Sheikh, who said "Go." But the brother said, "No, I
+will not go, unless you will give me the province to govern." The Sheikh
+replied, "Your brother will give you some town." "No," was the answer;
+"I will not go unless you will give me the whole province." This is now
+the great news in Zinder and Gurai, and was carried to the former place
+by two horsemen, who galloped from Kuka to Zinder in six days.
+
+I now write the names of the sultans of the province in Arabic, before
+them, with a black-lead pencil. This greatly astonishes them: first,
+that I am able to write their names and that of the countries which they
+govern; and secondly, with a black-lead pencil, which they call wood.
+
+_Names of several sorts of Fish (Buni) in Bornou._
+
+Yogari, a large flat fish, four or five feet long, and as many broad.
+
+Kagwi, a fish like a cod or ling.
+
+Haik, one foot and a half long, three or four inches broad.
+
+Kamudee, one foot and a half long, thick as the lower arm, and quite
+black.
+
+Karwa and Kagia, species of small plaice.
+
+Labun, of the size of a locust.
+
+Kadikadi, large thick eel.
+
+The Sultan is very anxious about my personal history, and hearing that I
+had my wife in Tripoli, inquired if I intended to take another in this
+country.
+
+I have had numberless visits all day long. The people display an intense
+curiosity to see the Christian, and would stop here for ever, gazing
+before my tent. Four sisters of the Sultan gave me a call. I taught them
+the use of pins, and pinned three of them together, which produced great
+merriment amongst the people. A Fellatah horse-dealer gave me two routes
+to-day; one from this (Gurai) to Sakkatou, and another from Sakkatou
+towards the west.[22]
+
+ [22] See Appendix.
+
+A quarrel has sprung up between the Kashalla and Said, Haj Beshir's
+slave, about the road we should take from this to Kuka. The
+north-eastern, or direct east, is the shortest, but there are three days
+without habitations: this is Said's road. The south-eastern is the
+longer route, and is the Kashalla's, but there are people every day. The
+latter is probably the better route for me. It is decided that we leave
+the day after to-morrow.
+
+This evening the Sultan sent me a camel, as a present. Not having
+experienced the difficulty of riding a horse, I had sold all my camels.
+The gift camel is a very good one.
+
+When the moon rises, about an hour after dark, the beating of the drums
+is heard, calling the people to assemble for the dancing--young men and
+maidens. In ten minutes, some hundred people are collected. The dancing
+then commences in full and grand style. This evening I went out to see
+the performance, and found it the most animating I had yet seen in
+Africa. The young men and maidens separated into parties, the maidens
+near the drummers, and the young men at a distance of some twenty paces
+around them. A circle is then formed. The ladies here choose their own
+partners, instead of waiting to be chosen. A maiden skips up awkwardly
+to the drummer, then glides off to the side of the young men, and
+touches the gentleman with whom she wishes to dance, and returns. The
+young man does not immediately accept, for two or three minutes elapse
+after he has been touched ere he starts off to join the lady who has
+honoured him in the presence of a hundred admiring or jealous
+spectators. They join, turning first face to face, then back to back,
+then face to the drummers, in the most lively style. The young men are
+dressed in their tobes, and throw them up and round so as to produce a
+moving circle, as women might do with their petticoats; but not moving
+their bodies so much as their circling tobes: this is the grand grace of
+the dance. Then there are parties of men and women dancing together; but
+the men with men, and women with women. The women trip up awkwardly, but
+modestly, to where the men are placed, and then fall back; upon which
+the men pursue them violently, overtaking them before they get to their
+places, and throwing their tobes around them: but there is nothing
+indelicate in all this. On the contrary, the whole dance is quite a
+pattern of modesty to the Europeans, the Arabs, and the Moors,--to these
+latter especially, whose dance, as introduced here, is of the most
+lascivious and beastly description. This entertainment takes place every
+night; it is the great solace and delight of the people: they have no
+other amusement. They are all passionately fond of the drum, which
+certainly makes a great noise, and stirs them up to exhibit their
+dancing powers.
+
+The whole population have suddenly become sick, and all want Epsom
+salts: a camel-load would not suffice. One old fellow wants a medicine
+to enable him to get children. I tell him he is now old, and must be
+satisfied with the strength God has given him in his past life.
+
+The Sultan has made presents to our people,--to the Kashalla, Yusuf, and
+others.
+
+_18th._--I was so beset with people that I could not use my thermometer
+this morning. The weather is fresh, with the wind from the north-east. I
+am obliged to give tea as medicine: everybody now pretends to be sick,
+from the Sultan to the meanest slave.
+
+In all these villages the people burn up the stubble in the evening,
+just outside the village, on the dung-heaps. They like to see the flame
+which whirls up from the dirty hay or straw; but, of course, they make
+their fire at some distance, to prevent its catching their huts. The
+mortar and pestle have disappeared: the people use here, for grinding
+their grain, two stones, as in some places on the north coast.
+
+The insects are beginning their depredations upon me, biting me all
+over, and raising on my flesh small ulcers.
+
+I have obtained from Nammadina, the Fellatah horse-dealer, a detailed
+account of the route to Yola, the capital of Adamaua, passing through
+Boushi.
+
+The Moors represent the latter place to be like Mourzuk and Tripoli; but
+they say the greater part of the inhabitants of Adamaua are infidels or
+pagans. The rulers are, however, Fellatahs, and therefore Muslims.
+Adamaua is a rocky country: a small quantity of grain is found here,
+with abundance of sheep, oxen, horses, goats, fish, samen, honey, and
+onions. The rivers of Adamaua have always some water in them.
+
+In the territory of Boushi will be found the celebrated name of Yamyam,
+where the Moorish and Arab merchants place the residence of the Ben-Adam
+eaters, or cannibals. I was greatly amused to hear my Fellatah informant
+most strenuously deny this calumny on the African race; he asserted that
+he had been in the country, and never had seen anything of this sort.
+The Moors as boldly affirmed that such cannibals exist, although they
+were obliged to confess they never saw the people of Adamaua or Yakoba
+(name of the sultan) eat human flesh. The whole story of the Yamyam is
+of the remotest antiquity, and has come down to us with many
+embellishments; but, if once true of the people hereabouts, it can no
+longer be authenticated by present facts, for as I have said, the Moors
+themselves represent Boushi to be like Tripoli.
+
+The people from Fezzan and Tripoli, the traders and all, complain of the
+liver complaint; most of them have been ten or fifteen years in this
+country, travelling through Bornou and Soudan. I gave them small doses
+of calomel. All people at this season, blacks and strangers from the
+north, are full of rheumatism, which they describe by saying they have
+pains in all their joints and all their limbs. The presence of a
+Christian having medicines heightens and multiplies these diseases;
+there is, however, in reality, a good deal of rheumatism, arising from
+the cold winds of the north-east.
+
+This evening we had again our drummers and the dancers, as on every
+preceding night. The girls have a laughable game amongst themselves, the
+boys, however, sometimes joining--that of throwing one another up and
+forwards by the arm-pits; the girl thus thrown forwards is expected, if
+she play her part well, to light firmly on her feet. If not, she rolls
+about and over, and the accidents that then occur are probably
+considered a great part of the amusement.
+
+_19th._--We were hurried off this morning early by the Kashalla, and I
+had no time to go and take leave of the Sultan. The weather is fresh. I
+mounted my gift camel; the second grand gift from the princes of Africa.
+We made a long day, from morning till after dark, about ten hours,
+through an undulating country. Some of the hollows were very deep, and
+enclosed stagnant reedy pools, of generally bad water, remaining from
+the past rains. For the first three or four hours of this march we had a
+scattered forest of dwarfish trees, mostly dwarf tholukhs. These are
+succeeded by small forests of the doom-palms, lining the pools and
+swamps in the valleys, and looking very fresh and pretty. I was
+astonished to see so few animals; indeed, we only observed now and then
+a small bird. What was the more strange, no water-fowl was seen in the
+pools.
+
+But the country to-day was all desert--no grain cultivating, which
+perhaps may account for the absence of birds and fowls. Said prevailed
+over the Kashalla, and we have taken the desert route, being five days
+nearer. There are, besides, but few trees, comparatively, which makes it
+easier to transport the boat.
+
+The Kashalla vexed me very much by taking my camel to transport a
+portion of baggage, his own camel knocking up. At first I refused to go
+on, but on the promise that he would get a bullock at the nearest place
+I mounted upon the luggage. Fortunately, my gift camel is a good one,
+not like the horse, and can carry a large weight. I cannot grumble much,
+as the Sheikh's camels are transporting many of my private things.
+Nevertheless you must show a stern resistance to all these liberties,
+otherwise you will never be able to get through Africa.
+
+No tent was pitched, but I made myself comfortable by drinking the
+remainder of a bottle of port wine, which I began yesterday. I felt a
+little queer, and fancied I had injured myself by drinking so much milk;
+so I took to a bottle of port wine, and finished it in three times. I
+have felt much better since. I could very well drink a bottle a-day, and
+believe I should be much stronger for it. However, such wine should be
+kept for convalescence after fever. I have still a bottle, and some
+Cyprus wine--very good wine.
+
+_20th._--We started as soon as the day broke and the sun showed himself,
+and made five hours south-east over country the same as yesterday. But
+the forests of doom-palms were larger and thicker, and valleys also were
+more extensive. What is strange, no wild animals show themselves, not
+even in these sedgy, reedy swamps. I could only see scattered on the
+ground the feathers of the guinea-fowl. One or two black-and-white crows
+were noticed. Our people say that all the crows are of this colour in
+Bornou. In Ashen there are both species, the black, and the
+black-and-white. Our people also tell us, that on the other route, which
+the Kashalla wished to travel, there are numbers of elephants, and much
+water. Here is water enough in the rainy season for all such animals. We
+had still the tholukh, as well as the doom, and a tree like a large
+sea-shore plant cropped by the camels.
+
+We saw no ghaseb cultivation, or any sort of grain, till we arrived at
+Gusumana, where we found wheat, cotton, and pepper in the gardens. The
+village of Gusumana is situated on a hill, overlooking a steep broad
+valley, full of the doom-palm. This village has therefore its houses
+constructed partly with the branches and trunks of this tree, which
+serve very well. I am housed in a most comfortable little hut made of
+this material, and nicely thatched; the door is composed of some thin
+strips of the leaves of the palm, which, as you enter, give way, and
+then return to their place, just as would a curtain. In this way the air
+always plays freely into the hut, murmuring sometimes between these
+fragments of leaves.
+
+I have felt much less fatigue since I mounted the camel, although I have
+made the longest day upon it that has been made since we left Zinder. I
+recommend to all travellers the camel in the desert, or in Soudan. I
+believe the ill-health of the former expedition was much increased by
+always riding horses. Thank God, my strength still keeps up.
+
+Taking Gusumana as a centre, we have around it several towns and
+villages. Thisi, one hour west; Gajemmi, one long day north-west; Parum,
+one hour east-south-east; Kadellebua, two hours south-west; Garua, one
+hour east; Gogora, two hours east; and, finally, in our road, Kanggarua,
+two days south-east. The town of Gajemmi is inhabited by the tribe of
+Duggera; but the Kaid of this village pretends they are not Tuaricks. He
+means, probably, not the same as the Tuaricks of Ashen. It is quite
+clear that these Daggera inhabit all the northern line of Bornou, from
+Zinder to Kuka; skirting, in fact, all the left of our route. They join
+the Damerghou territory, and thus extend from that province west to
+Kanem, and the route of Bornou east. The Tuaricks are ever located on
+the confines of the desert. Here they roam free, and rob and plunder
+where they have opportunity, or when the princes of Bornou and Soudan
+cannot check them.
+
+Our people gnaw the doom fruit, but it is just like gnawing the bark of
+a tree, slightly flavoured with some aroma. They begin to eat them from
+childhood, and so keep on, as the gour-nuts are chewed by children; and
+so the taste is sucked in with their mother's milk. The gour-nut,
+however, is something, whilst the doom fruit is mere wood. The tree,
+nevertheless, is green, and in waving forests delightfully relieves this
+hot, burning, African landscape.
+
+The portion of the caravan consisting of bullocks is always much later
+than the rest; to-day they were four hours after us. I consider that the
+hours we now go are at least two and a-half or three English miles in
+length, as we advance at a speed quite equal to a horse walking at a
+good pace; nay, I might say, some hours we make three and a-half English
+miles.
+
+The following are the names of the brothers of the Sultan of Sakkatou,
+obtained from my Fellatah informant of Gurai. A difference of
+pronunciation will be observed in the Arab names, as they are
+transmitted through the Fellatah language. Aliu (for Ali), name of the
+Sultan himself and one of his brothers; Mallaidi; Amadu (Ahmed), Omeru
+(Omer, two of this name), Mahammedu (Mahammed), Mogari; Amadu Bedai;
+Alhattu; Moho; Isa (two of this name); Amadu el-Fai; Musa;
+Abd-el-Kaderi, and Abd-el-Walli. These are the names of all the brothers
+which he has heard. The first minister is called Galladima. The Kadi is
+El-Hali el-Haj; Inna is the generalissimo; Mohammed Wuddeggen, Muddebri
+Ali, Bu Beker, Manuri, and Gudundi, are names of other grandees and
+generals. The horse-dealer speaks of them with great familiarity, for he
+sells to them all. His own country is called Kabi, situated to the
+south-west of Sakkatou. He gave me the particulars of the route.[23]
+
+ [23] See Appendix.
+
+_21st._--This morning the weather was cool, the thermometer standing at
+56 deg., with a fresh wind. We had a visit early from the Kadi. I asked him
+why he did not plant date-trees in the fine valley under the village. He
+replied, "From whence shall I procure them?" I answered, "From Tungari
+(a place west, three days distant)." At this he looked very stupid.
+These Minyo negroes have no idea of improving their condition. His reply
+may serve for all the country hereabouts.
+
+Minyo and its large province is called by its aboriginal names Manga. It
+extends south-east to a river, on the other side of which begins Bornou
+Proper. But the people of Manga speak the same language as the
+Bornouese. Zinder belongs to the circle of Soudan, and its province is
+called Damagram.
+
+Mohammed, my interpreter, pretends he saw elephants to-day at a
+considerable distance, looking like black trees. Probably to-morrow we
+may fall in with some animals worth seeing. I observed two or three
+swallows, the first this year. We stop here to-day to rest. The animals
+are knocked up, and the Kashalla has lost a horse.
+
+It is from this Manga province that many of the villages of Damerghou
+are populated. Formerly the Tuaricks of that province made razzias on
+these out-lying provinces, with the produce of which they increased the
+number of their subjects.
+
+An European must needs show off in this country. Yesterday I was obliged
+to exhibit to all the village,--about a hundred people,--and to-day to
+as many more. It is very fortunate if you are not detestably ugly, and
+can pass muster; for if you are, you will have all sorts of faces made
+at you; and, besides, you will be considered to represent a whole people
+as an ugly race. I walked round the village. There may be two hundred
+huts, and about six hundred inhabitants. The sun burns at four P.M. most
+fiercely. I begin to be afraid of it; but the days are uncertain, and
+sometimes the weather is quite chilly.
+
+According to my interpreter, Mohammed Ben Ahmed Bu Saad, there is no
+money in Bornou, and the Sheikh could never obtain a strong army. We
+certainly find considerable difficulty all along to get an extra camel
+or bullock, and those to be obtained are very bad ones. The people
+cultivate very little, and have no resources to fall back on. They have
+just a little grain for themselves. The Sheikh of this place is a
+respectable man, and has been very civil to me. He, however, requires
+from me a medicine to procure him a good reception wherever he goes. He
+says he is frequently called to Minyo and other large places, and he
+wants a medicine to procure him the smiles, good-will, and friendship of
+all the people whom he meets. Especially he wishes always to have the
+favour of the Sultan. I had numbers of other patients all day; my Epsom
+is fast going. Thermometer at sunset, 82 deg.; weather very troublesome
+to-day, blowing hot and cold with the same breath.[24]
+
+ [24] Here ends Mr. Richardson's journal, with words which
+      already hint the cause of the lamentable accident that
+      speedily followed. Spring was advancing with its uncertain
+      temperature in Central Africa. The thermometer varied
+      nearly thirty degrees between the morning and afternoon.
+      Doubtless, however, the unusual fatigue of horse-exercise
+      during the days that succeeded the departure from Zinder
+      may have contributed its share in breaking down Mr.
+      Richardson's strength. Something of a desponding tone may
+      be observed in the journal for many pages; but we do not
+      find that there was any cessation of industry. In addition
+      to what is found in the regular diary, a good many notes
+      were left written in pencil. Among the principal of them
+      are the following:--
+
+      "In Kanem, north of Bornou, it rains a month earlier in the
+      season than in that province; in Bornou, one month earlier
+      than in Kanou; in Kanou, one month earlier than at Niffee.
+      The heat of to-day, under a thatch hut, at one P.M., same
+      as yesterday, 96 deg.. Sugar dissolved into a wash is a common
+      remedy in Soudan and Bornou for bad eyes; but, perhaps, it
+      is made an excuse for getting sugar from us."
+
+      "In the evening we marched two hours and a-half in an
+      E.S.E. direction. We were met by the Sheikh of the place,
+      with some fifteen horse, and a mounted drummer. No wild
+      animals are seen, on account of the fires in the desert
+      (made, however, by the people on purpose to catch them). No
+      water-fowls swim in the pools, probably because there is no
+      cultivation. But this is the real country of the elephants.
+      I saw the dung some two days before, and could not make out
+      what it was. These days the dung was more abundant, and the
+      people told me what it was. The people about here do not
+      hurt them, their spears being useless against the hide of
+      this great quadruped; the hunters, however, entangle the
+      smaller animals--gazelles, &c.--by means of a great wheel
+      made of cane. The animals put their feet in the middle,
+      which gives in, and holds them, whilst the top is secured
+      by strong cords."
+
+      "Mandemnia.
+
+      "Kangarwar, half the size of Zinder. First day, evening
+      march, seven hours, pitched in open country; course, S.E.
+      Second day, pitched in open country; course, E. Third day,
+      six hours, E.N.E. Fourth day, half-an-hour's morning march.
+      Mandemnia village people occupied in making salt."
+
+      I believe Mr. Richardson was sometimes in the habit of
+      jotting down observations in this way on loose pieces of
+      paper previous to inserting them in his journal, which he
+      evidently wrote in great part with a view to its being sent
+      to the press, though at others he breaks away into a series
+      of disconnected memoranda. We have no further account of
+      what happened between the 21st of February and the 4th of
+      March, than what is contained in the letter written by Dr.
+      Barth, Mr. Richardson's fellow-traveller, so often
+      mentioned in the foregoing pages (see Preface).--ED.
+
+
+
+
+APPENDIX.
+
+
+LIST OF ROUTES, &c.
+
+
+_Route from Zinder to Kanou._
+
+From Zinder, starting S.S.E., Kankandi, one hour.
+
+Baban Tabki, a quarter of an hour.
+
+Dunai, four hours: large place, or village.
+
+Guna, one hour: large place.
+
+Karaiai, four hours: large village.
+
+Washa, seven hours: town and residence of a sultan.
+
+Kakibarai, three hours. This place consists of three villages; one upon
+the rocky hills, one on the slope, and one under the rocks. At Washa
+there are also rocks; the rest of the route is flat. From Washa to
+Kakibarai there is a most copious supply of water.
+
+Gordo, ten hours: large village.
+
+Eshkakato, two hours: large village.
+
+Tumbi, two hours: town and residence of a sultan. Omitting one place,
+the name of which was not remembered, then follows:
+
+Maidabara, one hour.
+
+Gumel, two hours: town and residence of a sultan.
+
+Tukkenzuru, one hour.
+
+Bermanaua, one hour: large village.
+
+Elladi, one hour. Here terminates the territory of Bornou.
+
+Garki, two hours: a very populous place, and said to be the residence of
+seven sultans (or governors). Here begins the territory of the
+Fellatahs.
+
+Dago, three hours.
+
+Kuka Maifurra, two hours.
+
+Kuka Mairua, one hour and a half.
+
+Gubbasaua, two hours.
+
+Souk (name not remembered), two hours.
+
+Gaizaua, two hours: a large place.
+
+Sharo, one hour. Here are three running streams, each separated by about
+a quarter of an hour's ride.
+
+Zango, a quarter of an hour. From Sharo to Kanou there are no less than
+thirty small villages.
+
+Kanou, a quarter of an hour. The whole of the route, with the exception
+of the rocks of Washa and Kakibarai, is flat, and trees are scattered
+along all the road. From Gumel to Dogo there is a forest, and from
+Kakibarai to Gordo the country is covered with the doom-palm. In all the
+towns and villages above enumerated is found a good supply of water. The
+portion of Bornouese territory is sandy, and that of the Fellatah's good
+earthy soil.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_Routes from Zinder to Kuka: first route, via Minyo._
+
+From Zinder to
+
+Zarmu, half a day; village. (The half day is from four to five hours.)
+
+Ginnewa, half a day; village.
+
+Majia, seven hours; village.
+
+Minyo, half a day; town and residence of a sultan of considerable power
+and influence.
+
+Alkammaram, seven hours; well.
+
+Kadalafua, seven hours; large village.
+
+Birribirchi, seven hours; well.
+
+Kagarwa, half a day; large village.
+
+Karragu-fillai, three hours.
+
+Gurrutua, half a day; town, and residence of a sultan.
+
+Zangairi, name of a river and a village, three hours. Here is a large
+river, which, however, is dry in summer. Most of these rivers are dry
+during the two or three hot months.
+
+Miggeba, four hours; a village.
+
+Zaggatur, half a day; a village.
+
+Bua, four hours; a village.
+
+Bagusu, half a day; a village.
+
+Kuka, four hours; town.
+
+This route is usually reckoned at fifteen days' journey: trees are
+abundant on all the route, especially the doom-palm. There are, besides,
+many streams of water, on the banks of which are seen animals of every
+description.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_Second Route, via Mashena._
+
+Miria, three hours; town, and residence of a sultan. Here is a small
+lake, where palateable fish are caught. Abundance of corn is also found
+here.
+
+Gushi, eight hours; town, and residence of a sultan.
+
+Gijemu, three hours; village.
+
+Zubaggeru, eight hours; large village.
+
+Funokam, three hours; village.
+
+Mashena, three hours; town, and residence of a sultan.
+
+Bundi, half a day; town, and residence of a sultan.
+
+Karimairi, three hours; town, and residence of a sultan.
+
+Zorikulo, eight hours; village.
+
+Kafi, three hours; village.
+
+Ganaua, half a day; village.
+
+Wadi, half a day; village.
+
+Gurrutua, eight hours; village.
+
+Miggeba, half a day; village. A river, in which water is found three
+feet deep during the summer.
+
+Fataganna, three hours; village.
+
+Dumrua, half a day; village.
+
+Shilaua, half a day; a village.
+
+Basher, half a day; a village.
+
+Kuka, three hours.
+
+This route abounds with trees, water, fruit, corn, and many animals.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_Route from Gumel to Kuka._
+
+From Gumel to
+
+Shafoa, half a day; large village.
+
+Taganama, half a day; large town, and residence of a sultan.
+
+Mashena, six hours; town, residence of a sultan.
+
+Gumsi, seven hours; large village.
+
+Zirku-Kura, ten hours; running water and wells.
+
+Enki-Kura (i.e. large water), twelve hours; a large lake, stagnant,
+having no communication with other water.
+
+Lauwanri, ten hours; large village.
+
+Diru, ten hours; large village.
+
+Chilumwa, ten hours; large village.
+
+Burburwa, twelve hours; a large walled town, and what is called
+_Biad-es-souk_, i.e. where a market is held.
+
+Daboko, twelve hours; small village, near a large river.
+
+Limbua, ten hours: this place consists of fifty or sixty little
+villages.
+
+Binaua, eight hours, comprising many small villages.
+
+Kamis-Ali, five hours, or place where a market is held.
+
+Basher, eight hours; village.
+
+Kuka, four hours.[25]
+
+ [25] In the former route, Basher is given as only three hours
+      from Kuka. In the next route, Bagusu is made eight hours
+      from Kuka, whilst a little back we have it set down at only
+      half that distance. These discrepancies, of course, set
+      geographers on their guard against placing any absolute
+      dependence on native reports. I remember once questioning
+      the inhabitants of a village in Egypt about the distance of
+      a particular place. One said, five or six hours; others
+      said, a short day; and others, a long day. However, by
+      comparison of various statements, perhaps something like
+      the truth may be reached.--ED.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_Route from Kanou to Kuka._
+
+From Kanou to
+
+Gaizaua, six hours; a large place.
+
+Kuka-Mairua, eight hours.
+
+Gerki, nine hours.
+
+Gumel, half a day; town, residence of a sultan.
+
+Ungua-Kalu, eight hours: this place includes two villages.
+
+Gullairi, ten hours; large village, or town without walls.
+
+Mashena, half a day; town, and residence of a sultan.
+
+Bundi, half a day; town, and residence of a sultan.
+
+Karremeri, four hours; a town, three times as large as Zinder.
+
+Zolikulo, eleven hours; village.
+
+Kafi, eight hours; village.
+
+Ganaua, nine hours; village.
+
+Dellella, half a day; village.
+
+Kashimwa, ten hours; large place, and a river.
+
+Miggeba, eight hours; village.
+
+Kassachia, five hours; villages: large river, dry in summer.
+
+Ura, eight hours; village.
+
+Kinchakusko, ten hours; village.
+
+Bagusu, ten hours.
+
+Kuka, eight hours.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_Route from Kuka to Mourzuk._
+
+From Kuka, north, to
+
+Urutua, half a day; small village.
+
+Karillewa, half a day; a well.
+
+Yau, half a day; walled town, large river.
+
+Burwa, twelve hours; walled town.
+
+Wuddi, twelve hours; stream, running into the Tchad (great lake).
+
+Gaigomai, four hours; small villages and rivers.
+
+Bir-Hamam, twelve hours; well.
+
+Kufai, nine hours; one tree; resting-place, formerly a well.
+
+Kibbu, fifteen hours; a well.
+
+Bel-Kashefferri, three days, and arrive the fourth day after six hours.
+
+Agdem, one day and a-half; well, large rocks and sandhills.
+
+Dubbula, two days; well, large rocks and sandhills.
+
+Zau, one day and a-half; well, large sandhills.
+
+Musguatin, seven hours; well, rocks.
+
+Bilma, four hours; large walled town.
+
+Shummenduro, eleven hours; town upon the rocks.
+
+Dirku, two hours; walled town, and residence of the Sultan of the
+Tibboos (capital).
+
+Ashennema, half a day; village and rocks.
+
+Amchumma, ten hours; village and rocks.
+
+Anai, two hours; village and rocks.
+
+Yuguba, twelve hours; a well.
+
+Sigdem, twelve hours; well and rocks.
+
+Maffarus, one day and a half; well.
+
+Lahmer, one day and a half; well and rocks.
+
+War, three days; well, and mountains of great height and magnitude.
+
+Meshru, two days; well and rocks.
+
+Oma, twelve hours. Here the traveller at length sees a forest of
+date-palms; and the first district of Fezzan begins.
+
+Tajerrhi, eleven hours; walled town.
+
+Kazraua, twelve hours; village.
+
+Mudrusai, half a day; village.
+
+Gatron, two hours; village.
+
+Hafari, twelve hours; well and date-palms.
+
+Mustutai, fifteen hours; well and date-palms.
+
+Bithan, twelve hours; village.
+
+Sidi Beshir, half a day; village.
+
+Mourzuk, three hours.
+
+_Obs._--All the Tibboo districts, like those of Fezzan, have forests of
+date-palms. Between Maffarus and Oma there is no herbage during seven
+days. The greatest quantity of sand in this route is found between Agdem
+and Zau.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_Route from Kuka, to Mandara._
+
+From Kuka, south, to
+
+Manguno, nine hours; a large town.
+
+Dikua, half a day; a walled town, and residence of a sultan.
+
+Gasa, ten hours; a village.
+
+Quondega, seven hours; a large village.
+
+Gamergu, five hours; a large village.
+
+Karaua, twelve hours; first country of Mandara, of great height.
+
+Izgai, four hours; village and rocks.
+
+Dulo, four hours; villages and rocks.
+
+Mora, three hours; a walled city, and capital of Mandara, a small city,
+containing not more than ten thousand souls. The Sultan has five hundred
+cavalry and one thousand eunuchs. These poor devils are made here. The
+Kerdies or pagans upon the neighbouring mountains are called Matacum.
+These mountains are said to be of considerable altitude.
+
+According to Omer Wardi there is no difficulty in going to Muzgu, south
+of Mandara, and seat of the nearest pagans.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_Route to Mandara from Kuka: Second Route, Eastern._
+
+TERRITORY OF BORNOU.
+
+From Kuka, south-east, to
+
+Gornu, half a-day; a walled town, larger than Zinder.
+
+Gulum, three hours; small village. Here is a river.
+
+Yaidi, four hours; large walled town.
+
+Martai, four hours; large walled town.
+
+Ala, three hours; large walled town.
+
+Diwa, eight hours; large walled town, and residence of a sultan. Here is
+a river.
+
+Abagai, two hours; small village.
+
+Kuddaigai, one hour; small village.
+
+Sokoma, one hour; a large walled town.
+
+Millehai, two hours; a small place.
+
+Magarta, three hours; a large walled town.
+
+Dellehai, half a day; a large place.
+
+TERRITORY OF MANDARA.
+
+Muddebai, a long day; a large walled town.
+
+Dulo, eight hours; a large walled town.
+
+Mandara, three hours; a city about the size of Mourzuk.
+
+A day's journey from Mandara is sufficient to make a razzia of slaves.
+Muzgu, a great Kerdi country, is three days' journey from Mandara.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_Route from Kanou to Sakkatou._
+
+From Kanou:
+
+Dal, three hours; several small villages, where tobes are dyed with
+indigo.
+
+Zalia (Zaria?), a walled town, containing some 20 or 30,000 souls, and
+residence of a sultan; one long day.
+
+Lariski, half a day; a small village.
+
+Gaia, eight hours; a large walled town, and residence of a sultan.
+
+Kafela, half a day; small village.
+
+Yakuba, five hours; a walled town, and residence of a sultan.
+
+Mukubi, three hours; a small town on the banks of a river, in which
+there is always water.
+
+Keskaua, half a day; a small village.
+
+Gala, eight hours; a walled town, and about the size of Zinder;
+residence of a sultan.
+
+Kusuri, one long day; a large walled town, and residence of a sultan. A
+river, having always water.
+
+Lokoui, one long day; a walled town, and residence of a sultan. The same
+river as at Kusuri.
+
+Sakkatou, eight hours. This journey is reckoned at twenty days.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_Route from Taghajeet to Tuat._
+
+From Taghajeet, on the northern frontiers of Aheer, to
+
+Asaiou, two days and a-half; water-station. (All the following names are
+water-stations, i.e. places where there are wells.)
+
+Logsur, three days and a-half; well: and so of the rest.
+
+Gharghar, three days; tents of wandering tribes of Tuaricks, principally
+Hagar and Maghatah.
+
+Yaizair, two days. From Gharghar to Tuat there are tents of Tuaricks
+along all this line of route.
+
+Aifak, one day.
+
+Tamaghaset, one day.
+
+Outur (or Utur), one day.
+
+Tairagin, one day.
+
+Tailak, two days.
+
+Ennimgal, three days.
+
+Tahalai-Oget, two days.
+
+Tisnu, two days.
+
+Minneat, two days.
+
+Tagajert, two days.
+
+Amasir, two days.
+
+Arak, two days.
+
+Tajmut, two days.
+
+Tegtamin, one day.
+
+Agmamar, two days.
+
+Loknaig, two days.
+
+Shab, two days.
+
+Hash-Lugwaira, one day.
+
+El-Gesser (Tuat), one day and a-half; a village.
+
+Ain-Salah, an hour or two.
+
+On this route there are no oases, no date-palms; the road lies through
+valleys and over plains, lined with rocky mountains, like those of Asben
+or Aheer. There is no region of sand, but now and then the earth assumes
+a sandy character. My informant is a Tuatee, who has travelled this
+route; in fact, no other persons but people of Tuat, unless Hagars and
+Maghatah, can do so in safety. I could not succeed in extracting more
+information from my informant. He was a mere barbarian, and pestered me,
+whilst writing the route, with demands for all sorts of things. Though a
+resident of the town of Tuat, he was in grain and mould a thorough
+Targhee bandit.
+
+
+THE DIFFERENT RACES IN KUKA.
+
+_Resident or Strangers._
+
+ 1. Shua (the first Arab settlers in Bornou).
+ 2. Arabs Bengazi.
+ 3. Arabs Misratah.
+ 4. Arabs and Moors of Aujilah; Mujabri, from Jalu, or Aujilah.
+ 5. Fezzanee, or people from Fezzan.
+ 6. Walad Suleiman, now domiciled in Kuka, and Wady Gazalahs.
+ 7. People from Tripoli; a very few.
+ 8. People from the west; a very few.
+
+
+_Belonging to the Sheikh._
+
+ 9. Bornouee, bulk of the population.
+10. Kanembu, north-east from Kuka.
+11. Qaiyam, around Kuka, within a few hours.
+12. Manga, west from Kuka.
+13. Baddi, west from Kuka.
+14. Kairi-Kairi, west from Kuka.
+15. Lari, west from Kuka.
+16. Gizzem, south-west from Kuka, twenty days.
+17. Gizzerai, near Gizzem.
+18. Engezer, south of Kuka, ten days.
+19. Kaiauri, south of Kuka, five days.
+20. Babur, south of Kuka, nine days.
+21. Figa, south of Kuka, fifteen days.
+22. Margi, south of Kuka, seven days.
+23. Kobchi, south of Kuka, seven days.
+24. Mulgwai, south of Kuka, ten days.
+25. Massafai, south of Kuka, fifteen days.
+26. Bogwai, south of Kuka, twenty days.[26]
+27. Umbum, south of Kuka, thirty days.[26]
+28. Fali, south of Kuka, thirty-five days.[26]
+29. Umbai, south of Kuka, twenty days.[26]
+30. Koua, south of Kuka, twenty-five days.[26]
+31. Butai, south of Kuka, thirty days.[26]
+32. Maudraui, south of Kuka, eight days.
+33. Begarmi, east of Kuka, twenty days.
+34. People of Logun, near Begarmi.
+35. People from Wadai; travellers.
+36. Sara, a province near Begarmi, with its own sultan.
+37. Fitri, a province belonging to Wadai. There is water in the lake of
+    Fitri. People of this province do not come to Kuka.
+
+ [26] These countries seem very far south, and yet are said
+      to be under the Sheikh. More information is required on
+      this point.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_Route from Tuat to Wadnoun._
+
+From Tuat, or from Ain-Salah, in Tuat, westward, to
+
+Timmemoun, a small oasis of Tuat, two days; date-palms, &c.
+
+Ourara (Urara), five days; an oasis of Tuat larger than Timmemoun.
+Between Timmemoun, and Ourara, date-palms and wells in abundance.
+
+Taffilelt, five days. Between Ourara and Taffilelt there are a number of
+small villages.
+
+Dra, nine days. From Tuat to Dra, passing through Taffilelt, the route
+is lined with forests of palms, and water everywhere abounds. Dra
+consists of some one hundred towns and villages.
+
+Weled Omer Ben Melouk, a tribe of Arabs, numbering some five thousand
+souls, and having maharees and horses. The whole tribe are notorious
+bandits. From Dra to the tents of this tribe there are some seven days'
+journey.
+
+Barraber, twenty days, consisting entirely of plains, with here and
+there wells. This is another tribe of Arabs, wandering in tents, and all
+bandits. They chiefly mount horses; they have, however, camels and
+flocks; the tribe consists of about two thousands souls.
+
+Tajakant, ten days; plains, with the mountains of Sous on the north. A
+tribe of pacific Arabs (i.e. not bandits), numbering about three
+thousand, having both horses and camels.
+
+Shurfa, or Weled Seba, three days; a tribe of Arabs, all Shereefs,
+numbering some four or five thousand, having many horses and camels, and
+flocks, and a few bullocks. Not bandits.
+
+Sakia Hamara, two days; a large walled, town, situated in a wady under a
+mountain: Shereefs and Marabouteen.
+
+Wad-Noun, three days.
+
+
+_Ain-Salah._
+
+South, from this point of departure we come to the
+
+Walad Bahammu, at a distance of one day; an oasis of two villages; all
+Tuatee bandits, riding maharees, wearing turkadees, like Tuaricks. One
+of these villages is called Akobli, known in the route to Timbuctoo.
+
+North, from Ain Salah are mentioned the
+
+Shellah, a tribe living in tents, speaking a Berber dialect; two days.
+My informant knows no more.
+
+East, from this point there is only desert towards Ghadamez.
+
+West, from the same, Timmemoun and Ourara.
+
+The person who gave me this information is one Haj Mohammed Ben Welid, a
+native of Ghadamez. Besides the above route from Tuat to Wadnoun, I am
+indebted to him for the Niffee route. Six years ago he was at Niffee,
+and saw there a large American vessel trading for slaves and other
+merchandise.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_Route from Kanou to Niffee._
+
+From Kanou, south, to
+
+Baibaishi, five days; walled town, and residence of a sultan; about the
+size of Zinder, situate amongst rocks: a river of continually running
+water.
+
+Zaria, two days; an immense walled town, of the size of Kanu: residence
+of a powerful Fullanee sultan.
+
+A wady, with continually running water, one day; no town.
+
+Agoi, three days; a number of small villages, situate under rocks of
+great height: a stream of running water.
+
+Agoi-Karama, one day; a small village, under lofty heights of rocks: a
+stream of running water.
+
+Kurmi-Wia (i.e. Difficult River), one day; a running river amidst dense
+forests; no town: here are immense bamboos, like ghaseb.
+
+Jangaru, three days, amidst forests of trees; a walled town, not quite
+so large as Zinder, having a Governor or Kaid. Here the route divides
+into two branches: one west, going to Raba, in seven days; and the other
+south, to Gorji, one day, on the banks of the Niger; and on to Niffee.
+
+Gorji, one day, on the Niger; a large town.
+
+Ladai, two days; a large walled town, and residence of a sultan, called
+Masaba.
+
+Lori, five days and a-half; a large city, capital of Niffee: the Sultan
+a Fellatah, called Sita.
+
+From Jangaru, west, Akarri, one day; and from Akarri, seven days; then
+we come to Raba, passing through all sorts of country.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_Route from Kanou to Sakkatou._
+
+From Kanou, west, to
+
+Tofa, one day; small village.
+
+Kalenya, one day; small walled town.
+
+Sabonkashi, four days; a large walled town, and residence of a sultan.
+
+Kanya, three days; small village.
+
+Sabokafi, four days; a small village.
+
+Kogo, two days; a large walled town, situate between rocks; a small
+stream.
+
+Rafi, one day; a large walled town.
+
+
+_Zanfeirra._
+
+Kauralamoda, two days; a large walled city, and residence of a sultan: a
+running stream in winter.
+
+Gora, one day; a small village.
+
+Bakura, three days; a large walled town, and residence of a sultan:
+streams in rainy season.
+
+From Rafi to Bakura extends the province or kingdom called Zanfeierra,
+of which the capital is Bakura.
+
+Between Bakura and the city of Sakkatou, which comes next in order,
+after two days, there are a number of small villages. Before you reach
+Sakkatou from Kanou, distant an hour, is a large river, in which is
+found water during the dry season.
+
+On this route there are not many forests, but there is a good deal of
+grain and other cultivation, with very few rocks. The road is usually
+good, only now and then infested by the freebooters from Maradee. This
+route is travelled in from ten to twelve and fifteen days,--not above
+fifteen,--with anything like good travelling.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_Route from Zinder to Gomel._
+
+From Zinder, west, to
+
+Gogai, one day; a cluster of villages.
+
+Zerma, one day; a small village.
+
+Azbenaua, one hour; a small village.
+
+Kamai, one hour; a small village.
+
+Gomel, two hours; a large place, and residence of a sultan.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+The Kashalla has been so good as to give me the names of the towns and
+villages between Kuka and the capital of Begarmi; viz, from Kuka to
+Gornu, one day, but a very short day, three or four hours, and all the
+days following the same, three or four hours only.
+
+Gornu, one day.
+
+Mardai, one day.
+
+Yaidi, one day.
+
+Digua, one day.
+
+Mozzenai, one day.
+
+Sabala, one day.
+
+Gala, one day.
+
+Mabadai, one day.
+
+Wilgi, one day.
+
+Abadai, one day.
+
+Ngelbai, one day.
+
+Kutheri, one day.
+
+Logonai, one day.
+
+River Chari, one day.
+
+Mudba, or Dar-Begarmi, one day: first town of Begarmi. All the countries
+hereabouts are called Dar.
+
+After Mudba, in Begarmi:
+
+Gaui, one day.
+
+Joadai, one day.
+
+Derejebany, one day.
+
+Abuger, one day.
+
+Mazanya, one day; capital of Begarmi.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_Gurai to Sakkatou._
+
+From Gurai, westward, to
+
+Tungari, four hours; large place.
+
+Bonai, three hours; large place.
+
+Mashena, four hours; large place; residence of a Sultan.
+
+Alamaiko, eight hours; large place.
+
+Kakori, one long day; small place.
+
+Murma, one long day; large place.
+
+Muddechi, half a day; large place.
+
+Hadayi, half a day; large place.
+
+Jafun, one long day; large place.
+
+Kadawauwa, half a day; large place.
+
+Gunfia, half a day; small place.
+
+Gammoji, half a day; small place.
+
+Gaia, one long day; large place.
+
+Birni-Kanou, nine hours; a great country.
+
+Karaue, half a day; large place.
+
+Dangani, half a day; large place.
+
+Kafi, one long day; large place.
+
+Waunakka, half a day; large place.
+
+Katturkoshi, half a day; very large place; river and rocky hills.
+
+Gaukisa, half a day; large place; river.
+
+Kauramoda, eight hours; large place; river.
+
+Pianchi, two hours; a sultan; river; large place.
+
+Kassara, half a day; small place; rivers.
+
+Gora, half a day; large place; a sultan.
+
+Bakura, half a day; a sultan; a river; large place.
+
+Wangara, one hour; large place; river.
+
+Danshaura, half a day; large place; the same river from Katturkoshi to
+this place.
+
+Sakkatou, half a day.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_Route from Sakkatou, westwards, to_
+
+Wurmu, one hour; large place.
+
+Kaiua, half a day; large place.
+
+Kalmalu, half a day; large place.
+
+Maranu, half a day; large place.
+
+Kussub-Buni, one long day; large place.
+
+Chinaka, half a day; large place.
+
+Dawakari, half a day; large place.
+
+Laka, half a day; large place.
+
+Gauasu, half a day; large place.
+
+Bodinga, half a day; large place.
+
+Sifaua, half a day; large place.
+
+Danchadi, half a day; large place.
+
+Dinkadi, half a day; large place.
+
+Rekina, eight hours; large place.
+
+Chifaua, half a day; large place.
+
+Chuni, half a day; large place.
+
+Wababi, half a day; large place.
+
+Dankai, half a day; large place.
+
+Kajiji, half a day; large place.
+
+Chagari, half a day; large place.
+
+Salaha, half a day; large place.
+
+Zuondu, half a day; large place.
+
+Tamboel, half a day; large place.
+
+Kallamfaina, half a day: large place.
+
+Saiyinna, half a day; large place.
+
+These half days are about five hours. All that I could learn of this
+route is, that it goes westwards. The Fellatah tells me there is a good
+road from Sakkatou to Timbuctou, on which caravans are always going in
+great numbers.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_Route from Kanou to Adamaua._
+
+From Kanou, south, to
+
+G.[27] Akwa, half a day, i.e. equal to about three or four hours.
+
+G. Del, half a day.
+
+S. Garwai, half a day.
+
+S. Tabti, half a day.
+
+G. Sabongari, half a day.
+
+G. Waram, half a day.
+
+G. Zarranda, half a day.
+
+G. Garu, capital of Boushi; name of the sultan Yokaba; half a day.
+
+S. Kaddara, half a day.
+
+S. Mankaiama, half a day.
+
+S. Yanyam, half a day.
+
+G. Serken Kuddu, half a day.
+
+G. Jab Jab, half a day.
+
+G. Bumanda, half a day.
+
+G. Jennowai, half a day.
+
+G. Kadduna, half a day.
+
+G. Binnoi, half a day.
+
+Zungwan-dunia, half a day; resting-place; not a town.
+
+Zungwan-Kano, half a day; resting-place.
+
+Zungwan-Mageria, half a day; resting-place.
+
+Chikaji, half a day; resting-place.
+
+S. Akam, half a day.
+
+Yungwan-Bauna, half a day; resting-place; no town.
+
+S. Gangomai, half a day.
+
+Kogimagurji, half a day; resting-place.
+
+Koginbaba, half a day; resting-place.
+
+G. Rumji, half a day.
+
+G. Kwancha, half a day; river. Here begins Adamaua.
+
+G. Laro, half a day; river.
+
+G. Chamba, half a day; river.
+
+G. Turwa, half a day; river.
+
+G. Gurrin, half a day; river.
+
+G. Maiyabatta, half a day; river.
+
+G. Yola, half a day; river; the capital of the territories of Adamaua;
+residence of the sultan, called Mohammed Lauel.
+
+The route is reckoned seventeen days from Kanou to Kwancha, and three
+days from Kwancha to Yola.
+
+ [27] G, large place, or town; S, small place, village. Dictated
+      by the Fellatah horse-dealer, Nammadina.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_Route from Sakkatou to Kabi, S.W._
+
+Silami, 5 hours; large place.
+
+Quaido, 5 hours; large place.
+
+Ugi, one hour; a very considerable town.
+
+Argungu, 5 hours; large place.
+
+Gullema, 5 hours; large place.
+
+Sena, 5 hours; large place.
+
+Birni Kabi: large place.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_Names of Places about Sakkatou, westwards._
+
+Jeka, half a day.
+
+Alieru, 3 hours.
+
+Maddadi, 4 hours.
+
+Margai, 4 hours.
+
+Magagin Kada, 2 hours.
+
+Gommu-gommu, 4 hours.
+
+Binji, 2 hours.
+
+Kandai, 2 hours.
+
+Silami, half a day.
+
+Yabo, 5 hours.
+
+Dundaai, half a day.
+
+Quallai, 3 hours.
+
+Dagga, one long day.
+
+Indaba, half a day.
+
+Assara, one long day.
+
+Zaia, one long day.
+
+Manni, half a day.
+
+Durgalai, 2 hours.
+
+Killarai, 2 hours.
+
+Fadaita, half a day.
+
+Kotuturu, half a day.
+
+Tofa, half a day.
+
+Gidan Majibta, 2 hours.
+
+Maikujaira, half a day.
+
+Kundus, 1 1/2 hours.
+
+Quaquara, 2 hours.
+
+These are all considerable towns and villages. As to their relative
+position, I have merely written down how distant one is from the
+other.
+
+The following is a list which I have obtained of the Tibboo nations (or
+tribes):--
+
+ 1. Etteri, two days north of Kuka or Bornou.
+ 2. Gunda, seven days north from Bornou.
+ 3. Arinda, one day from Gunda.
+ 4. Yurimma, two days from Gunda.
+ 5. Wandala, three days east from Yurimma.
+ 6. Gaidua, four days east from Wandala.
+ 7. Mussaui, seven days east from Wandala.
+ 8. Sakkarta, seven days east from Wandala.
+ 9. Madema, two days east from Sakkarta (country of Kanum).
+10. Choiokkera, four days east from Madema.
+11. Tumbela, two days north from Gunda.
+12. Masella, eleven days north from Bornou (a country of dates).
+13. El-Wudda, one day from Marsella.
+14. Dummeya, thirty days east of Bornou (in Borgu).
+15. Zuaeda, the Tibesti people.
+16. Tamara, country of Bilma, &c.
+17. Tauwia, two days north of Bilma.
+18. Etmada, one day north from Bilma.
+19. Addubocha, fifteen days east of Bilma.
+20. Fuktua, one day east from Addubocha.
+21. Abuya, two days north from Fuktua.
+22. Belguda, eight days east of Bilma.
+23. Nuazma, three days east of Belguda.
+24. Karrai, three days east of Kameru, near the Chada.
+
+
+
+THE END.
+
+
+
+LONDON: PRINTED BY G. BARCLAY, CASTLE ST. LEICESTER SQ.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Narrative of a Mission to Central
+Africa Performed in the Years 185, by James Richardson
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