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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/18634-8.txt b/18634-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..8d95174 --- /dev/null +++ b/18634-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,9137 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of First Impressions of the New World, by +Isabella Strange Trotter + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: First Impressions of the New World + On Two Travellers from the Old in the Autumn of 1858 + +Author: Isabella Strange Trotter + +Release Date: June 20, 2006 [EBook #18634] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF THE NEW WORLD *** + + + + +Produced by Robert Cicconetti, Martin Pettit and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This +file was produced from images generously made available +by the Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions +(www.canadiana.org)) + + + + + + +FIRST IMPRESSIONS + +OF + +THE NEW WORLD. + + +LONDON +PRINTED BY SPOTTISWOODE AND CO. +NEW-STREET SQUARE. + + +[Illustration: Map] + + +FIRST IMPRESSIONS + +OF + +THE NEW WORLD + +ON + +TWO TRAVELLERS FROM THE OLD + + +IN THE AUTUMN OF 1858. + + +LONDON +LONGMAN, BROWN, GREEN, LONGMANS, & ROBERTS. +1859 + + +TO + +I. L. T. + + * * * * * + +MY DEAR LITTLE GIRL, + +I dedicate this little book to you; the letters it contains were meant +to let you know how your father and I and your brother William fared in +a rapid journey, during the autumn of last year, through part of Canada +and the United States, and are here presented to you in another form +more likely to ensure their preservation. + +You are not yet old enough fully to understand them, but the time will, +I trust, come when it will give you pleasure to read them. I can safely +say they were written without any intention of going beyond yourself and +our own family circle; but some friends have persuaded me to publish +them, for which I ought, I suppose, to ask your pardon, as the letters +have become your property. + +The reason which has made your father and me consent to this is, that we +scarcely think that travellers in general have done justice to our good +brothers in America. We do not mean to say that _we_ have accomplished +this, or that others have not fairly described what they have seen; but +different impressions of a country are made on persons who see it under +different aspects, and who travel under different circumstances. + +When William, for example, was separated from us he found the treatment +he received very unlike what it was while he travelled in our company; +and as many bachelors pass through the country and record their +experience, it is not surprising if some of them describe things very +differently to what we do. + +The way to arrive at truth in this, as in all other cases, is to hear +what every one has to say, and to compare one account with another; and +if these letters to you help others to understand better the nature and +character of the country and the people of America, my object in making +them public will be attained. + +With some few alterations, the letters are left just as you received +them, for I have been anxious not to alter in any way what I have told +you of my First Impressions. When, therefore, I have had reason to +change my opinions, I have thought it better to subjoin a foot-note; and +in this way, too, I have sometimes added a few things which I forgot at +the time to mention in the letters themselves. + +There is only one thing more to tell you, which is, that though I wrote +and signed all the letters myself many parts are of your father's +dictating. I leave you and others to judge which these are. Without his +help I never could have sent you such full accounts of the engine of the +Newport steamer, or of our journey across the Alleghanies and other such +subjects; and you will, I know, like the letters all the better for his +having taken a part in them. + + Believe me ever, + Your affectionate Mother. + +June, 1859. + + +CONTENTS. + + + +LETTER I. + +Voyage.--Arrival at New York.--Burning of Quarantine Buildings.--Cable +Rejoicings.--Description of the Town Page 1 + +LETTER II. + +West Point.--Steamer to Newport.--Newport.--Bishop Berkeley.-- +Bathing.--Arrival at Boston 9 + +LETTER III. + +Journey to Boston.--Boston.--Prison.--Hospital.--Springfield.-- +Albany.--Trenton Falls.--Journey to Niagara.--Niagara 28 + +LETTER IV. + +Niagara.--Maid of the Mist.--Arrival at Toronto.--Toronto.--Thousand +Islands.--Rapids of the St. Lawrence.--Montreal.--Victoria Bridge 58 + +LETTER V. + +Journey from Montreal to Quebec.--Quebec.--Falls of Montmorency.-- +Island Pond.--White Mountains.--Portland.--Return to Boston.--Harvard +University.--Newhaven.--Yale University.--Return to New York 76 + +LETTER VI. + +Destruction of the Crystal Palace.--Philadelphia.--Cemetery.--Girard +College.--Baltimore.--American Liturgy.--Return to Philadelphia.-- +Penitentiary.--Return to New York 97 + +LETTER VII. + +William's Departure.--Greenwood Cemetery.--Journey to Washington.-- +Arrangements for our Journey to the Far West.--Topsy 108 + +LETTER VIII. + +Washington.--Baptist Class-Meeting.--Public Buildings.--Venus by +Daylight.--Baltimore and Ohio Railway.--Wheeling.--Arrival +at Columbus 119 + +LETTER IX. + +Journey from Wheeling to Columbus.--Fire in the Mountains.--Mr. +Tyson's Stories.--Columbus.--Penitentiary.--Capitol--Governor +Chase.--Charitable Institutions.--Arrival at Cincinnati 168 + +LETTER X. + +Cincinnati.--Mr. Longworth.--German Population.--"Over the +Rhine."--Environs of Cincinnati.--Gardens.--Fruits.--Common +Schools.--Journey to St. Louis 202 + +LETTER XI. + +St. Louis.--Jefferson City.--Return to St. Louis.--Alton.-- +Springfield.--Fires on the Prairies.--Chicago--Granaries.--Packing +Houses.--Lake Michigan.--Arrival at Indianapolis 224 + +LETTER XII. + +Indianapolis.--Louisville.--Louisville and Portland Canal.-- +Portland.--The Pacific Steamer.--Journey to Lexington.--Ashland.-- +Slave Pens at Lexington.--Return to Cincinnati.--Pennsylvania +Central Railway.--Return to New York 239 + +LETTER XIII. + +New York.--Astor Library.--Cooper Institute.--Bible House.--Dr. +Rae.--Dr. Tyng.--Tarrytown.--Albany.--Sleighing.--Final Return to +Boston.--Halifax.--Voyage Home.--Conclusion 279 + + * * * * * + +FIRST IMPRESSIONS + +OF + +THE NEW WORLD. + + * * * * * + + + + +LETTER I. + + + VOYAGE.--ARRIVAL AT NEW YORK.--BURNING OF QUARANTINE + BUILDINGS.--CABLE REJOICINGS.--DESCRIPTION OF THE TOWN. + + + New York, September 3, 1858. + +We landed here yesterday afternoon, at about six o'clock, after a very +prosperous voyage; and, as the Southampton mail goes to-morrow, I must +begin this letter to you to-night. I had fully intended writing to you +daily during the voyage, but I was quite laid up for the first week with +violent sea sickness, living upon water-gruel and chicken-broth. I +believe I was the greatest sufferer in this respect on board; but the +doctor was most attentive, and a change in the weather came to my +relief on Sunday,--not that we had any rough weather, but there was +rather more motion than suited me at first. + +Papa and William were well throughout the voyage, eating and drinking +and walking on deck all day. Our companions were chiefly Americans, and +many of them were very agreeable and intelligent. Amongst the number I +may mention the poet Bryant, who was returning home with his wife and +daughter after a long visit to Europe; but they, too, have suffered much +from sea sickness, and, as this is a great bar to all intercourse, I had +not as much with them as I could have wished. + +The north coast of Ireland delighted us much on our first Sunday. We +passed green hills and high cliffs on our left, while we could see the +distant outline of the Mull of Cantire, in Scotland, on our right. We +had no service on that Sunday, but on the one following we had two +services, which were read by the doctor; and we had two good sermons +from two dissenting ministers. The second was preached by a Wesleyan +from Nova Scotia, who was familiar with my father's name there. He was a +good and superior man, and we had some interesting conversations with +him. + +We saw no icebergs, which disappointed me much; but we passed a few +whales last Tuesday, spouting up their graceful fountains in the +distance. One came very near the ship, and we had a distinct view of its +enormous body. We had a good deal of fog when off Newfoundland, which +obliged us to use the fog-whistle frequently; and a most dismal sounding +instrument it is. The fog prevented our having any communication with +Cape Race, from whence a boat would otherwise have come off to receive +the latest news from England, and our arrival would have been +telegraphed to New York. + +The coast of Long Island came in sight yesterday, and our excitement was +naturally great as we approached the American shore. + +Before rounding Sandy Hook, which forms the entrance on one side to the +bay of New York, we ran along the eastern coast of Long Island, which +presents nothing very remarkable in appearance, although the pretty +little bright town of Rockaway, with its white houses studded along the +beach, and glittering in the sun, gave a pleasing impression of the +country. This was greatly increased when, running up the bay, we came to +what are called the Narrows, and had Staten Island on our left and Long +Island on the right. The former, something like the Isle of Wight in +appearance, is a thickly-wooded hill covered with pretty country +villas, and the Americans were unceasing in their demands for admiration +of the scenery.[1] + +Before entering the Narrows, indeed shortly after passing Sandy Hook, a +little boat with a yellow flag came from the quarantine station to see +if we were free from yellow fever and other disorders. There were many +ships from the West Indies performing quarantine, but we were happily +exempted, being all well on board. It was getting dark when we reached +the wharf; and, after taking leave of our passenger friends, we landed, +and proceeded to an adjoining custom-house, where, through the influence +of one of our fellow-passengers, our boxes were not opened, but it was a +scene of great bustle and confusion. After much delay we were at length +hoisted into a wonderful old coach, apparently of the date of Queen +Anne. We made a struggle with the driver not to take in more than our +own party. Up, however, others mounted, and on we drove into a +ferry-boat, which steamed us, carriage and all, across the harbour, for +we had landed from the ship on the New Jersey side. After reaching New +York by means of this ferry-boat, we still had to drive along a +considerable part of Broadway, and finally reached this comfortable +hotel--the Brevoort House--at about eight o'clock. + +The master of the hotel shook hands with papa on entering, and again +this morning treated him with the same republican familiarity. The hotel +is very quiet, and not a specimen of the large kind, which we intend +seeing later. We had fortunately secured rooms beforehand, as the town +is very full, owing to the rejoicings at the successful laying of the +cable, and many of our fellow-passengers were obliged to get lodgings +where they could. + +We found that Lord Napier was in the hotel, so we sent our letters to +him, and had a long visit from him this morning. + +Two topics seem at present to occupy the minds of everybody here; one, +the successful laying of the cable, the other the burning of the +quarantine buildings on Staten Island. We were quite unconscious, when +passing the spot yesterday, that the whole of these buildings had been +destroyed on the preceding night by an incendiary mob; for such we must +style the miscreants, although they comprised a large portion, it is +said, of the influential inhabitants of the place. The alleged reason +was that the Quarantine establishment was a nuisance, and the residents +had for months been boasting of their intention to destroy the obnoxious +buildings. The miserable inmates would have perished in the flames, had +not some, more charitable than the rest, dragged them from their beds. +The Yellow Fever Hospital is destroyed, and the houses of the physicians +and health officers are burnt to the ground. At the very same moment New +York itself was the scene of the splendid festivities in honour of the +successful laying of the Atlantic Telegraph Cable, to which we have +alluded. + +We came in for the _finale_ of these yesterday, when the streets were +still much decorated. In Trinity Church we saw these decorations +undisturbed: the floral ornaments in front of the altar were more +remarkable, however, for their profusion than for their good taste. On a +temporary screen, consisting of three pointed gothic arches, stood a +cross of considerable dimensions, the screen and cross being together +about fifty feet high. The columns supporting the arches, the arches +themselves, and all the lines of construction, were heavily covered +with fir, box, holly, and other evergreens, so as to completely hide all +trace of the wooden frame. The columns and arches of the church were +also decorated with wreaths and garlands of flowers. + +On a panel on the temporary structure already mentioned was the +inscription, "GLORY BE TO GOD ON HIGH, AND ON EARTH PEACE, GOOD WILL +TOWARDS MEN," all done in letters of flowers of different colours; the +cross itself being covered with white roses and lilies. In the streets +were all sorts of devices, a very conspicuous one being the cable slung +between two rocks, and Queen Victoria and the President standing, +looking very much astonished at each other from either side. The +absurdity of all this was, that the cable had really by this time come +to grief: at least, on the morning after our landing, an unsuccessful +attempt was made to transmit the news of our arrival to our friends in +England. It was rather absurd to see the credit the Americans took to +themselves for the success, such as it was, of the undertaking. + +Besides seeing all this, we have to-day driven and walked about the town +a good deal, and admire it much. It is very Parisian in the appearance +of its high houses, covered with large bright letterings; and the shops +are very large and much gayer looking on the outside than ours; but, on +examination, we were disappointed with their contents. The streets seem +badly paved, and are consequently noisy, and there are few fine +buildings or sights of any kind; but the dwelling-houses are not +unfrequently built of white marble, and are all handsome and +substantial. In our drive to-day we were much struck with the general +appearance of the streets and avenues, as the streets which run parallel +to Broadway are called. The weather has been sultry, but with a good +deal of wind; and the ladies must think it hot, as most of them appear +at breakfast in high dresses with short sleeves, and walk about in this +attire with a slight black lace mantle over their shoulders, their naked +elbows showing through. We go to-morrow to West Point, on the Hudson +River, to spend Sunday, and return here on Monday, on which day William +leaves us to make a tour in the White Mountains, and he is to join us at +Boston on Monday week. + +You must consider this as the first chapter of my Journal, which I hope +now to continue regularly. + +FOOTNOTE: + +[1] The admiration thus claimed for the scenery was sometimes so +extravagant as to make us look for a continuance of it, a reproach of +this kind being so often made against the Americans; but we are bound to +add this note, to say that we very seldom met afterwards with anything +of the kind, and the expressions used on this occasion were hardly, +after all, more than the real beauty of the scenery warranted. + + + + +LETTER II. + + + WEST POINT.--STEAMER TO NEWPORT.--NEWPORT.--BISHOP + BERKELEY.--BATHING.--ARRIVAL AT BOSTON. + + + Brevoort House, 5th Avenue, New York, + 8th Sept., 1858. + +My letter to you of the 3rd instant gave you an account of our voyage, +and of our first impressions of this city. In the afternoon of the 4th, +William went by steamboat to West Point, on the river Hudson, and we +went by railway. This was our first experience of an American Railway, +and it certainly bore no comparison in comfort either to our own, or to +those we have been so familiar with on the Continent. The carriages are +about forty feet long, without any distinction of first and second +classes: the benches, with low backs, carrying each two people, are +arranged along the two sides, with a passage down the middle. The +consequence is, that one may be brought into close contact with people, +who, at home, would be in a third-class carriage. There are two other +serious drawbacks in a long journey; the one being that there is no +rest for the head, and therefore no possible way of sleeping +comfortably; the other, that owing to the long range of windows on +either side, the unhappy traveller may be exposed to a thorough draught, +without any way of escape, unless by closing the window at his side, if +he is fortunate enough to have a seat which places it within his reach. +Another serious objection is the noise, which is so great as to make +conversation most laborious. They are painstaking in their care of the +luggage, for besides pasting on labels, each article has a numbered +check attached to it, a duplicate of which is given to the owner; time +is saved in giving up the tickets, which is done without stoppage, there +being a free passage from one end of the train to the other. This +enables not only ticket-takers, but sellers of newspapers and railway +guides, to pass up and down the carriages; iced water is also offered +gratis. + +The road to Garrison, where we had to cross the river, runs along the +left bank of the Hudson, a distance of fifty miles, close to the water's +edge nearly the whole way, and we were much struck by the magnificence +of the scenery. The river, generally from two to three miles in breadth, +winds between ranges of rocks and hills, mostly covered with wood, and +sometimes rising to a height of 800 feet. Owing to the windings and the +islands, the river frequently takes the appearance of a lake; while the +clearness of the atmosphere, and the colouring of the sunset, added to +the beauty of the scene. We travelled at the rate of twenty miles an +hour, and arrived in darkness at Garrison. Here we crossed the river in +a ferry-boat to West Point, and found William, who had come at the same +speed in the steamer. The hotel being full, we accepted the offer of +rooms made us by Mr. Osborn, an American friend of papa's, at a little +cottage close to the hotel. Mr. and Mrs. Osborn and their two children +had passed some weeks there, and said they frequently thus received +over-flowings from the hotel, and but for their hospitality on this +occasion, we should have been houseless for the night. This cottage +belonged to the landlord of the hotel, and there being no cooking +accommodation in it, we all took our meals in the public dining-room. +The hotel itself is a very spacious building, with a wide verandah at +each end. We found an endless variety of cakes spread for tea, which did +not exactly suit our appetites, but we made the best of it, and then +went into the public drawing-room, where we found all the guests of the +hotel assembled, and the room brilliantly lighted. Here balls, or as +they call them "hops," take place three or four times a week. The scene +is thoroughly foreign, more German than French. The ladies' hoops are +extravagant in circumference; the colouring of their dresses is violent +and heavy; and there is scarcely a man to be seen without moustachios, a +beard, a straw hat, and a cigar. West Point is the Sandhurst of the +United States, and is also the nearest summer rendezvous of the +fashionables of New York. It is beautifully situated on the heights +above the river, and the Military Academy, about ten minutes' drive from +the hotel, commands a most splendid view of the Hudson, and the hills on +either side. + +We went to the chapel on Sunday the 5th, where we joined, for the first +time, in the service in America. It differs but little from our own, and +was followed by a not very striking sermon. The Holy Communion was +afterwards administered, and it was a comfort to us to join in it on +this our first Sunday in America. The cadets filled the centre of the +chapel, and are a very good-looking set of youths, wearing a pretty +uniform, the jacket being pale grey with large silver buttons. We dined +at four o'clock at the _table d'hôte_, in a room capable of holding +about four hundred. We sat next to the landlord, who carved at one of +the long tables. The dinner was remarkably well cooked in the French +style, but most deficient in quantity, and we rose from table nearly as +hungry as we sat down. Some of the ladies appeared at dinner in evening +dresses, with short sleeves (made _very_ short) and low bodies, a tulle +pelerine being stretched tight over their bare necks. In some cases the +hair was dressed with large ornamental pins and artificial flowers, as +for an evening party. We met them out walking later in the evening, with +light shawls or visites on their shoulders, no bonnets, and large fans +in their hands. This toilette was fully accounted for by the heat, the +thermometer being at 80° in the shade. Many of the younger women were +very pretty, and pleasing in their manners. + +We left West Point early on Monday morning, the 6th, taking the +steamboat back to New York, leaving William to pursue his journey to the +White Mountains and Montreal alone, and we are to meet him again at +Boston next week. The steamboat was well worth seeing, being a wonderful +floating house or palace, three stories high, almost consisting of two +or three large saloons, much gilt and decorated, and hung with prints +and filled with passengers. The machinery rises in the centre of the +vessel, as high nearly as the funnel. We went at the rate of twenty +miles an hour. We again enjoyed the beauties of the river, and could +this time see both sides, which we were unable to do on the railway, by +which means too we saw many pretty towns and villas which we had missed +on Saturday. We were back at the hotel by twelve o'clock, and are to +make our next move to-morrow afternoon to Newport, a sea-bathing place, +a little way north of this. We are doing this at the strong +recommendation of Lord Napier, who says, at this time of the year +Newport is worth seeing, as giving a better idea of an American +watering-place than Saratoga, where the season is now drawing to a +close. + +We have now become more familiar with this place, and I think are +beginning to feel the total want of interest of any sort beyond a +general admiration of the handsome wide streets and well-built houses. +The Brevoort House is in the fifth avenue, which, in point of fashion, +answers to Belgrave Square with us, and consists of a long line of +houses of large dimensions. A friend, who accompanied us in our drive +yesterday evening, pointed out many of the best of them as belonging to +button-makers, makers of sarsaparilla, and rich parvenus, who have risen +from the shop counter. He took us to his own house in this line, which +was moderate in size, and prettily fitted up. He is a collector of +pictures, and has one very fine oil painting of a splendid range of +mountainous scenery, in the Andes. It is by Church, a rising young +American, whose view of the Falls of Niagara was exhibited this year in +London. We have made frequent use of the omnibus here; the fares are +half the price of the London ones, and the carriages are very clean and +superior in every way to ours. Great trust is shown in the honesty of +the passengers, there being no one to receive payment at the door, but a +notice within directs the money to be paid to the driver, which is done +through a hole in the roof, and he presents his fingers to receive it, +without apparently knowing how many passengers have entered. We +frequently meet woolly-headed negroes in our walks, and they seem to +form a large proportion of the servants, both male and female, and of +porters and the like. We are disappointed in the fruit. The peaches are +cheap, and in great quantities, but they are very inferior to ours in +flavour, and the melons are also tasteless. The water-melons are cut in +long slices and sold in the streets, and the people eat them as they +walk along. The great luxury of the place is ice, which travels about +the streets in carts, the blocks being three or four feet thick, and a +glass of iced water is the first thing placed on the table at each meal. +The cookery at this hotel is French, and first rate. We have had a few +dishes that are new to us. The corn-bread and whaffles are cakes made +principally of Indian-corn; and the Okra-vegetable, which was to us new, +is cut into slices to flavour soup. Lima beans are very good; we have +also had yams, and yesterday tasted the Cincinnati champagne, which we +thought very poor stuff. + +_Fillmore House, Newport, Rhode Island, September 13th._--We left New +York on Thursday afternoon, and embarked in a Brobdingnagian steamboat, +which it would not be very easy to describe. The cabin is on the upper +deck, so that at either end you can walk out on to the stern or bow of +the vessel; it is about eleven feet high, and most splendidly fitted up +and lighted at night with four ormolu lustres, each having eight large +globe lights. We paced the length of the cabin and made it 115 paces, so +that walking nine times up and down made a nice walk of a mile. The +engine of the steamboat in America rises far above the deck in the +centre of the vessel, so this formed an obstruction to our seeing the +whole length, unless on each side of the engine, where a broad and clear +passage allowed a full view from end to end; but instead of taking away +from the fine effect, the engine-room added greatly thereto, for it was +divided from the cabin, on one side, by a huge sheet of plate glass, +through which the most minute workings of the engines could be seen. +There was in front a large clock, and dials of every description, to +show the atmospheric pressure, the number of revolutions of the wheel, +&c. This latter dial was a most beautiful piece of mechanism. Its face +showed six digits, so that the number of revolutions could be shown up +to 999,999. The series of course began with 000,001, and at the end of +the first turn the _nothings_ remained, and the 1 changed first into 2, +then into 3, &c., till at the end of the tenth revolution the two last +digits changed together, and it stood at 000,010, and at the 1,012th +revolution it stood at 001,012. + +To go back to the saloon itself; the walls and ceiling were very much +carved, gilt, and ornamented with engravings which, though not equal to +our Albert Durers, or Raphael Morghens at home, were respectable modern +performances, and gave a drawing-room look to the place. The carpet was +gorgeous in colour, and very pretty in design, and the arm-chairs, of +which 120 were fixtures ranged round the wall, besides quantities +dispersed about the room, were uniform in make, and very comfortable. +They were covered with French woven tapestry, very similar to the +specimens we bought at Pau. There were no sofas, which was doubtless +wise, as they might have been turned to sleeping purposes. Little +passages having windows at the end, ran out of the saloon, each opening +into little state cabins on either side, containing two berths each, as +large as those on board the Africa, and much more airy; but the +wonderful part was below stairs. Under the after-part of the saloon was +the general sleeping cabin for the ladies who could not afford to pay +for state cabins, of which, however, there were nearly a hundred. Our +maid slept in this ladies' cabin, and her berth was No. 306, but how +many more berths there may have been here we cannot tell. This must have +occupied about a quarter of the space underneath the upper saloon. The +remaining three quarters of the space constituted the gentlemen's +sleeping cabin, and this was a marvellous sight. The berths are ranged +in four tiers, forming the sides of the cabin, which was at least +fourteen feet high; and as these partook of the curve of the vessel, the +line of berths did the same, so as not to be quite one over the other. +There were muslin curtains in front of the berths, forming, when drawn, +a wall of light floating drapery along each side of the cabin, and this +curved appearance of the wall was very pretty; but the prettiest effect +was when the supper tables were laid out and the room brilliantly +lighted up. Two long tables stretched the whole length, on which were +placed alternately bouquets and trash of the sweet-cake kind, though the +peaches, water-melons, and ices were very good, and as we had luckily +dined at New York, _we_ were satisfied. The waiters were all niggers, +grinning from ear to ear, white jacketed, active, and clever, about +forty strong. The stewardesses, also of African origin, wore hoops of +extravagant dimensions, and open bodies in front, displaying dark brown +necks many of them lighted up by a necklace or diamond cross, rivalling +Venus herself if she were black. They were really fearful objects to +contemplate, for there was a look of display about them which read one a +severe lesson on female vanity, so frightful did they appear, and yet +rigged out like modern beauties. It was the most lovely afternoon +conceivable, and we stayed on deck, sometimes on the bow and sometimes +on the stern of the vessel, till long after dark. We preferred the bow, +as there was no awning there, and the air was more fresh and +invigorating. + +The passage through Long Island Sound was like a river studded on both +sides with villas and green lawns, something like the Thames between +Kingston and Hampton, but much wider, and with higher background, and +altogether on a larger scale. When, owing to the darkness, we lost sight +of these, they were replaced by lighthouses constantly recurring. This +huge Leviathan, considerably longer than the Africa, proceeded at the +rate of about eighteen miles an hour, going half-speed only, on account +of the darkness of the night. The full speed was twenty-four miles an +hour, and remember this was not a high-pressure engine. After proceeding +through this narrow channel for about 120 miles, we again entered the +Atlantic, but speedily reached the narrow inlet which extends up to this +place. You may wonder at our having been able to make such minute +observations upon the saloon, &c.; but having tried our state cabin, and +not relishing it, we paced up and down the saloon, and occupied by turns +most of its 120 chairs, till three o'clock in the morning brought us to +the end of our voyage. There was no real objection to the cabin, beyond +the feeling that it was not worth while to undress and lie down for so +short a time; besides which, papa was in one of his fidgetty states, +which he could only relieve by exercise. + +But how now to describe Newport? Papa is looking out of the window, and +facing it is an avenue of trees running between two lawns of grass as +green as any to be seen in England, though certainly the grass is +coarser than at home. In these lawns stand houses of every shape and +form, and we, being _au troisième_ have a distant view of the sea, which +looks like the Mediterranean studded with ships. As this place (the +Brighton of New York) stands on a small island, this sea view is +discernible from all sides of the house. We walked yesterday a long way +round the cliffs, which are covered with houses far superior to the +average villas in England, the buildings being of a brilliant white and +sometimes stone colour, and of elaborate architecture, with colonnades, +verandahs, balconies, bay windows of every shape and variety, and all +built of wood. The churches are some of them very beautiful, both Gothic +and Grecian. A Gothic one to which we went yesterday afternoon, was +high, high, high in its decorations, but not in the least in the +doctrine we heard, which was thoroughly sound on "God so loved the +world," &c. The fittings up were very simple, and the exterior of the +church remarkable for the grace and simplicity of its outline; for +being, like the houses, built entirely of wood, elaborate carving cannot +be indulged in. + +The church which we went to in the morning offered a great contrast to +this, the interior being fitted up with high old-fashioned pews, like +many a village church at home; but besides this, a further interest +attached to Trinity Church, as being the one in which Dean Berkeley used +to preach, and from its remaining unaltered in its internal appearance +from what it was in his days. The pulpit is still the same, and there is +still in the church the organ which he presented to it, at least the +original case of English oak is there, and part of the works are the +same, though some pipes have lately been added. Independently of Trinity +Church, the town of Newport has many associations connected with Bishop +Berkeley's memory, the place where he lived, and where he wrote his +"Minute Philosopher" being still pointed out, as well as the spot on the +beach where he used to sit and meditate. The most striking buildings, +however, are the hotels, one of which, the "Ocean House," is the largest +building of the kind we have ever seen. It has very much the appearance +of the huge convents one sees in Italy, and, standing on the top of the +cliffs, it has a most remarkable effect. There are some very good +streets, but the greatest part of the town consists of detached houses +standing in gardens. There are very few stone buildings of any kind. The +hotel we are in is not the largest, but is considered the best, and in +the height of the season the place must be very gay. + +The next, perhaps the greatest, feature here is the bathing. There are +three beaches formed round a succession of points, the whole forming a +lovely drive on dry hard sand; and such a sun as we gazed upon yesterday +setting over these distant sands passes description. On the first of +these beaches are ranged more than a hundred bathing machines at about a +hundred yards above high-water mark, looking like sentry boxes on a +large scale, with fine dry sand between them and the sea. We went down +on Saturday to see the bathing, which is here quite a public affair; and +having fixed our eyes on a machine about a dozen yards off, we saw two +damsels enter it, while a young gentleman, who accompanied them went +into an adjoining one. In a few minutes he came out attired in his +bathing dress and knocked at the ladies' door. As the damsels were +apparently not ready, he went into the water to wait their coming, and +in due time they sallied forth dressed in thick red baize trowsers and a +short dress of the same colour and material, drawn in at the waist by a +girdle. The gentleman's toilet was coloured trowsers and a tight flannel +jacket without sleeves. He wore no hat, but the ladies had on very +_piquante_ straw hats trimmed with velvet, very like the Nice ones, to +preserve them from a _coup de soleil_. They joined each other in the +water, where they amused themselves together for a long time; a +gentleman friend's presence on these occasions is essential, from the +Atlantic surf being sometimes very heavy; but the young gentleman in +question did not enact the part of Mr. Jacob, of Cromer, not being +professional. The number of bathers is generally very great, though now +the season being nearly over there are not many, but there were still +enough to let us judge of the fun that is said to go on. + +There are few guests in this house now. A "hop" was attempted on Friday +evening in the entrance hall, but the unhappy musicians exerted +themselves in playing the Lancers' Quadrilles and all sorts of ugly +jerking polkas without success, although an attempt at one quadrille, we +were told, was made after we had retired for the night. The _table +d'hôte_ toilettes here now are much quieter than they were at Westpoint, +there being but two short sleevers yesterday at our two o'clock dinner. +There is a large and handsome public drawing-room, where we can rock in +rocking chairs (even the bed-rooms have them), or pass an hour in the +evening. We are waited on at dinner by twelve _darkies_, as the niggers +are called, marshalled by a head waiter as tall as papa and as black as +his hat. A black thumb on your plate, as he hands it to you, is _not_ +pleasant. The housemaids are also niggeresses, and usually go about in +coloured cotton sun bonnets. I now leave off, as we start for Boston in +an hour. + +_Boston, 14th September, 1858._--We reached this yesterday, and were +looking for William all the evening, but were disappointed at his +non-appearance. He arrived here, however, at three this morning by the +steamer, and is now recounting his adventures; he enjoyed himself very +much, and looks all the better for his trip. + +I ought to tell you of a few Yankee expressions, but I believe the most +_racy_ of them are used by the young men whom we do not come across: "I +guess" is as common as "I think" in England. In directing you on any +road or street, they tell you always to go "right away." If you do not +feel very well, and think you are headachy, and that perhaps the weather +is the cause, you are told you are "under the weather this morning." An +excellent expression we think; so truly describing the state papa is +often in when in dear old England. Then when you ask for information on +any subject, the answer is frequently, "I can't say, sir, for I am not +_posted up_ on that subject." I asked an American gentleman, who was +walking with us last night, not to walk quite so fast, and he answered, +"Oh, I understand; you do not like that Yankee hitch." "Yankee" is no +term of offence among themselves. Our friend certainly made use of the +last expression as a quotation, but said it was a common one. They will +"fix you a little ginger in your tea, if you wish it;" and they all, +ladies and gentlemen, say, Sir, and Ma'am, at every sentence, and all +through the conversation, giving a most common style to all they say; +although papa declares it is Grandisonian, and that they have retained +good manners, from which we have fallen off. + +I reserve my description of the journey here, and of this town, for my +next letter. + + + + +LETTER III. + + + JOURNEY TO + BOSTON.--BOSTON.--PRISON.--HOSPITAL.--SPRINGFIELD.--ALBANY.--TRENTON + FALLS.--JOURNEY TO NIAGARA.--NIAGARA. + + + Delavan House, Albany, Sept. 15th, 1858. + +I find it at present impossible to keep up my letter to you from day to +day, but I am so afraid of arrears accumulating upon me that I shall +begin this to-night, though it is late and we are to start early +to-morrow. My last letter brought us up to our arrival at Boston, but I +have not yet described to you our delightful journey there. + +We left Newport with our friends, Mr. and Miss Morgan, at two o'clock on +the 13th, and embarked in a small steamer, which took us up the +Narragansett Bay to the interesting manufacturing town of Providence. We +were about two hours on the steamer, and kept pace with the railway cars +which were running on the shores parallel to us, and also going to +Providence. The shores were very pretty, green and sloping, and dotted +with bright and clean white wooden houses and churches. We passed the +pretty-looking town of Bristol on our right. The day was lovely, +brilliant and cool, with a delightfully bracing wind caused by our own +speed through the water. + +The boat brought us to Providence in time only to walk quickly to the +railway, but we had an opportunity of getting a glance at the place. It +is one of the oldest towns in America, dating as far back as 1635; but +its original importance is much gone off, Boston, which is in some +respects more conveniently situated, having carried off much of its +trade. It is most beautifully situated on the Narragansett Bay, the +upper end of which is quite encircled by the town, the city rising +beyond it on a rather abrupt hill. Among the manufactories which still +exist here, those for jewellery are very numerous. + +We were now to try the railway for the second time in America, and +having been told that the noise of the Hudson River line was caused by +the reverberation of the rocks, and was peculiar to that railway, we +hoped for better things on this, our second journey. We found, however, +to our disappointment, that there was scarcely any improvement as to +quiet; and as papa _would_ eat a dinner instead of a luncheon at +Newport, this and the noise together soon worried his poor head into a +headache. We were confirmed in our dislike of the cars and railways, +which have many serious faults. The one window over which papa and I +(sitting together) were able to exercise entire control, opened like all +others by pushing it _up_. A consequence of this arrangement is that the +shoulder next to it is in danger of many a rheumatic twinge, being so +exposed to cold; whereas, if the window opened the reverse way, air +could be let in without the shoulder being thus exposed. I forgot in my +description of the cars, to tell you that the seats are all reversible, +enabling four persons to sit in pairs facing each other, and also if +their opposite neighbours are amiably disposed, enabling each pair to +rest their feet on the opposite seat, and if the opposite seat is empty, +the repose across from seat to seat can be still more complete; but it +is an odious contrivance, and neither repose nor rest can be thought of +in these most uncomfortable carriages. Our seats faced the front door, +and were close to it, which was very desirable as the air is clearer at +that end, and not so loaded with the impurities of so large a mass of +all classes as at the other end. We made various purchases as we went +along. First came the ticket man, then cheap periodicals, then apples +and pears, common bon-bons, and corn pop, of which I am trying to keep +a specimen to send you. It is a kind of corn which is roasted on the +fire, and in so doing, makes a _popping_ noise, whence its name. It is +pleasant to nibble. Then came iced water, highly necessary after the dry +corn pop, and finally about twenty good and well-chosen books. Papa +bought the Life of Stephenson. + +But if we had room to grumble about discomforts within, we could only +admire unceasingly without the very lovely road along which we were +rapidly passing. The country consisted of undulating hills and slopes, +prettily wooded, while bright white wooden houses and churches rapidly +succeeded each other; the tall, sharp, white church spire contrasting +beautifully with the dark back-ground of trees. It was delightful to see +all the houses and cottages looking trim and neat, and in perfect order +and repair. There was no such thing as dilapidation or poverty apparent, +and the necessary repairs being so easily made, and the paint-brush +readily available, all looked in the most perfect order. We could do +little else than admire the scenery, and arrived at Boston at about six +o'clock; the last few minutes of the journey being over a long wooden +bridge or viaduct, which connects the mainland with the peninsula on +which Boston is built. We found rooms ready for us at Tremont House. It +is an enormous hotel, but the passages are close, and the rooms small. +They were otherwise, however, very luxurious, for I had a small +dressing-room out of my bedroom in which was a warm bath and a plentiful +supply of hot and cold water laid on, besides other conveniences. + +The next morning we found Lord and Lady Radstock in the breakfast-room; +and papa accompanied Lord Radstock to see an hospital and prison. + +The prison was the jail in which prisoners are detained before their +trial, as well as when the duration of their imprisonment is not to be +very long. Nothing, by papa's description, can exceed the excellency of +the arrangements as far as the airiness and cleanliness of the cells, +and even the comforts of the prisoners, are concerned, but the system is +one of strict solitary confinement. Papa and Lord R. were surprised to +find that some unhappy persons, who were kept there merely in the +character of witnesses, were subject to the same rigorous treatment. +Lord R. remarked, that he would take good care not to see any offence +committed while in this country, but the jailor replied, "Oh, it would +be quite enough if any one declared you saw it." + +The hospital appears to be a model of what such an establishment ought +to be. The wards are large, and, like the prison cells, very airy and +clean, but with a great contrast in the character of the inmates for +whose benefit they are provided. The great space which can usually be +allotted, in a country like this, to institutions of this description, +may perhaps give this hospital an advantage over one situated in the +centre of a large city like London; though the semi-insular position of +Boston must render space there comparatively valuable; but even this +cannot take away from the merit of the people in showing such attention +to the comforts of the needy sick. But what papa was most pleased with, +was the provision made, on the plan which has been often tried in +London, but never with the success it deserves, of an hospital, or home +for the better classes of the sick. In the Boston hospital, patients are +received who pay various sums up to ten dollars a week, for which they +can have a comfortable room to themselves, and the best medical advice +which the town affords. Papa and Lord R. were shown over this +institution by Dr. Shaw, who was particularly attentive and obliging in +answering all their questions. + +We have since been exploring the town, and are quite delighted with it. +It has none of the stiff regularity of New York, and the dwelling +houses have an air of respectable quiet comfort which is much wanted in +that city of wealth and display. The "stores" too are far more +attractive than in New York, though their way of asking you to describe +exactly what you want before they show you anything, except what is +displayed, reminded me much of France. The city is altogether very +foreign-looking in its appearance, and we are glad to think we are to +return and make a better acquaintance with it later in the month. There +is a delightful "common," as they call it, or park, which is well kept, +and much prized by the inhabitants. Some beautiful elm trees in it are +the largest we have seen in this country. Around one side are the best +dwelling houses, some of which are really magnificent. The hotel, which +is a very large one, has some beautiful public sitting rooms, greatly +larger than those at the Brevoort House at New York, which is much more +quiet in this respect; but these large rooms form an agreeable adjunct +to an hotel, as they are in general well filled by the guests in the +house, and yet sufficiently large to let each party have their own +little coterie. + +The character of the inhabitants for honesty seems to be called in +question by the hotel-keepers, for all over these hotels there are +alarming notices to beware of hotel thieves (probably English +pickpockets); and in Boston we were not only told to lock our doors, but +not to leave the key on the outside _at any time_, for fear it should be +stolen. + +_Trenton Falls, Sept. 16th._--We left Boston on Tuesday afternoon, and +got as far as Springfield, a town beautifully situated on the river +Connecticut, and celebrated for a government institution of great +importance, where they make and store up fire-arms. It is just 100 miles +from Boston, and the railway runs through a beautifully wooded country +the whole way, which made the journey appear a very short one. The +villages we passed had the same character as those between Providence +and Boston, and were, like them, built altogether of wood, generally +painted white, but occasionally varied by stone-colour, and sometimes by +a warm red or maroon colour picked out with white. + +Springfield lay on our way to Albany, and as we had heard much of the +beauty of the place, we were not deterred from sleeping there by being +told that a great annual horse-fair was to be held there, but to secure +rooms we telegraphed for them the day before. At the telegraph station +they took upon themselves to say, there was no room at the established +hotels, but that a new one on the "European plan" had been opened the +day before, where we could be taken in; at this we greatly rejoiced, but +to our dismay on arriving, we found its existence ignored by every one, +and we were almost in despair when we bethought ourselves to go to the +telegraph office, where we were directed to a small new _cabaret_, whose +only merit was that we, being its first occupants, found everything most +perfectly fresh and clean; but having been only opened that day, and the +town being very full, everything was in disorder, and there were but two +bedrooms for papa, myself, William, and Thrower.[2] It became an anxious +question how to appropriate them, as there was but one bed in one of the +rooms, and two in the other. However, it was finally arranged, that papa +and William should sleep in the double-bedded room, and Thrower and I +together in the single bed. We called Thrower a _lady_ of the party, and +made her dine with us, for had they known she was only a "help," she +might probably have fared badly. + +After getting some dinner, at which the people are never at a loss in +America, any more than in France, we sallied forth to see the town, and +were exceedingly pleased with its appearance. Nothing could be brighter +or fresher than it looked, and the flags and streamers across the +street, and general lighting up, were foreign-looking and picturesque. +Although the town is but small compared with those we had just left, the +shops were spacious and well filled, and the things in them of a good +quality. Hearing that there was a meeting at the City Hall, we went to +it, little expecting to find such a splendid room. In order to reach it, +we had to pass through a corridor, where the names of the officers of +the corporation were painted over doors on each side, and were struck +with amazement, when, at the end of this, we entered a hall, as light +and bright-looking as St. James' Hall in London, and though not perhaps +so large, still of considerable dimensions, and well proportioned. The +walls were stone-colour, and the wood-work of the roof and light +galleries were buff, picked out with the brightest scarlet. On a +platform at one end of the room were seated the Mayor of Springfield, +and many guests whom he introduced one by one to the audience in short +speeches. These worthies delivered harangues on the subject of horses +and their uses; and the speeches were really very respectable, and not +too long, but were delivered in general with a strong nasal twang. +There were persons from all parts of America; Ohio, Carolina, &c. &c. + +We made out our night tolerably well, and next morning went to look at +the arsenal, and depôt of arms, and were shown over the place by a +person connected with the establishment, who was most civil and obliging +in explaining the nature of all we saw. The view from the tower was most +lovely. The panorama was encircled by high hills, clothed with wood; and +the town, and many villages and churches, all of dazzling whiteness, lay +scattered before the eye. We drove next to the Horse Fair, which was +very well arranged. There was a circus of half a mile, forming a wide +carriage road, on which horses were ridden or driven, to show off their +merits. The quickest trotted at the rate of twenty miles an hour. When +the horses were driven in pairs, the driver held a rein in each hand. +There was a platform at one end filled with well-conducted people, and a +judge's seat near it. The horses in single-harness went faster even than +those in pairs: one horse, called Ethan Allen, performing about +twenty-four miles an hour; though Edward may arrive nearer than this +"about," by calculating at the rate of two minutes and thirty-seven +seconds, in which it went twice round this circle. The owner of this +horse has refused $15,000 or 3000_l._ for it. It is said to be the +fastest horse in America, and a beautiful animal, but most of the horses +were very fine. The people seemed to enjoy themselves much, and all +appeared most quiet and decorous, but the whole population surprised us +in this respect. We have seen but one drunken man since we landed. Even +in our new cabaret, the opening of which might have given occasion for a +carousal, every thing was most orderly. Our landlord, however, seemed +very full of the importance of his position, and could think and talk of +nothing but of this said cabaret. Their phraseology, is often very odd. +In the evening, he said, "Now, will you like your dinner _right away_?" +As we walked along the streets, and tried to get a room elsewhere, a man +said, smacking his hands together, "No, they are already _threbled_ in +every room." + +But I must now tell you of our journey from Springfield to Albany: the +distance between the two is exactly 100 miles; Boston being 200 from +Albany. We left Springfield by train at twelve o'clock, and reached +Pittsfield, a distance of fifty miles, at half-past two. This part of +the road presented a succession of beautiful views. Your sisters will +remember that part of the road near Chaudes Fontaines, where it runs +through the valley, and crosses the Vesdre every five minutes. If they +can imagine this part of it extended for fifty miles, and on a much +larger scale, they may form some notion of what we saw. The railway +crossed the river at least thirty times, so we had it on the right hand +and left hand alternately, as on that little bit in Belgium. The river, +called the Westfield, was very rapid in places, and the water, when +deep, almost of a rich coffee colour. At Pittsfield we got on to the +plateau which separates the Connecticut River and the Hudson. The plain +is elevated more than 1000 feet above the sea. We then began rapidly to +descend. The country was still as pretty as before, but more open, with +hills in the back-ground, for till we reached Pittsfield these were +close to us, and beautifully wooded to the top. At Pittsfield, in the +centre of the town, there is a very large elm tree, the elm being the +great tree of the country, but this surpassed all its neighbours, its +height being 120 feet, and the stem 90 feet before any branches sprang +from it. + +We reached Albany at five o'clock; and a most beautiful town it is. The +great street, as well as one at right angles to it leading up to the +Capitol, is wider, I think, than any street we ever saw; and the shops +on both sides are very splendid. The hotel is very large and good; but, +alas! instead of our dear darkies at Newport, we had some twenty +pale-faced damsels to wait at table, all dressed alike in pink cottons, +their bare necks much displayed in front, with large white collars, two +little frills to form the short sleeves, large, bare, clean, white arms, +and short white aprons not reaching to the knees. They had no caps, and +such a circumference of hoops! quite Yankeeish in their style; and most +careless, flirtatious-looking and impertinent in their manners. We were +quite disgusted with them; and even papa could not defend any one of +them. We were naturally very badly waited upon; they sailing +majestically about the room instead of rushing to get what we wanted, as +the niggers at Newport did. Men-servants answered the bed-room bells, +and brought our hot water; the ladies being employed only as waiters. + +This morning the fine weather we had hitherto enjoyed began to fail us, +as it rained in torrents. Notwithstanding this, we started at half-past +seven; passing through what in sunshine must be a lovely country, to +Utica on the New York Central Railway, and thence by a branch railway of +fifteen miles to Trenton Falls. The country was much more cultivated +than any we have yet seen. There were large fields of Indian corn, and +many of another kind, called broom corn, being grown only to make +brooms. We passed many fields of a brilliant orange-red pumpkin, which, +when cooked, looks something like mashed turnips, and is called squash: +it is very delicate and nice. But beautiful as the country was, even in +the rain, we soon found out that we had left New England and its +bright-looking wooden houses. The material of which the houses are built +remains the same; but instead of being painted, and looking trim and +neat as in New England, they consisted of the natural unpainted wood; +though twelve hours of pouring rain may have made them more +melancholy-looking than usual; for they were all of a dingy brown, and +had a look bordering on poverty and dilapidation in some instances, to +which we were quite unaccustomed. + +On reaching this place we found the hotel was closed for the season; but +rooms had been secured in a very fair country inn, where we had a +tolerable dinner. We were glad to see the rain gradually cease; and the +promise of a fine afternoon caused us to sally out as soon after dinner +as we could to see the falls. These are very beautiful: they are formed +by a tributary of the Mohawk River, along the banks of which (of the +Mohawk itself I mean) our railway this morning passed for about forty +miles. The Erie Canal, a most celebrated work, is carried along the +other bank of the river; so that, during all this distance, the river, +the railway, and the canal were running parallel to each other, and not +a pistol shot across the three.[3] We had been warned by some Swiss +friends at Newport against carelessness and rashness in walking along +the narrow ledge cut in the face of the rock, so we took a guide and +found the pass very slippery from the heavy rain. The amiable young +guide took possession of me, and for a time I got on tolerably well, +clinging to the chain which in places was fastened against the face of +the rock; but as the path narrowed, my head began to spin, and as the +guide discouraged me, under these circumstances, from going any further, +I turned back with Thrower and regained _dry land_, while the rest of +the party were accomplishing their difficult task. They returned much +sooner than we expected, delighted with all they had seen, though papa +said I was right not to have pursued the narrow ledge. He then took me +through a delightful wood to the head of the falls, where a seat in a +little summer-house enabled me to enjoy the lovely scene. The river +takes three leaps over rocks, the highest about 40 feet; though in two +miles the descent is 312 feet. Beautifully wooded rocks rise up on +either side; and the sunshine this afternoon lighting up the wet leaves +added to the beauty of the scene. We scrambled down from the +summer-house to the bed of the river, and walked on to the foot of the +upper fall; which, though not so high as the others, was very pretty. In +returning home we had glimpses of the falls through the trees. Many of +the firs and maples are of a great height, rising an immense way without +any branches, reminding us of the oaks at Fontainebleau. + +We had to change our damp clothes on our return to the inn; and after +partaking of tea-cakes, stewed pears, and honey, I am now sitting in the +public room in my white dressing-gown. This toilette, I have no doubt, +is thought quite _en régle_, for white dresses are much worn in America; +and the company here this evening is not very refined or capable of +appreciating the points in which mine may be deficient. There is dancing +at the great hotel every night in the season; but that is now over. Some +sad accidents have happened here, by falls over the precipice into the +river. The last occurred this year, when a young boy of eight, a twin +son of a family staying here, from New York, was drowned: but these +accidents, we are told, generally happen in the safest places from +carelessness. We go on, to-morrow, probably to Rochester, where there +are some pretty small falls; and on Saturday, the 17th, we hope to reach +Niagara, from whence this letter is to be posted for England. + +A nigger, and our guide of this afternoon, have just seated themselves +in the corner of the drawing room where I am writing, and are playing, +one the fiddle, and the other the guitar. Perhaps they are trying to get +up a "hop," later, but there do not seem materials enough for it, and +their tune is at present squeaky--jerky--with an attempt at an adagio. +The nigger is now playing "Comin' thro' the Rye," with much expression, +both of face and fiddle! Oh, such, squeaks! I wish Louisa heard them. +Here come the variations with accompaniment of guitar.--Later.--The +nigger is now singing plaintive love ditties! + +_International Hotel, Niagara Falls, September 18th._--We had gone from +the station at Trenton to Trenton Falls in a close, lumbering, heavy +coach, which is of very ordinary use in America. But yesterday morning +we went over the same ground in an omnibus, which allowed us to see the +great beauty of the country to perfection; and, although we had +occasional heavy showers, the day was, on the whole, much more +propitious for travelling, as the atmosphere was very clear, and the +sandy dust was laid. We returned to Utica, or "Utikay," as they call it, +and, having an hour to spare, went and saw the State Lunatic Asylum; but +there was not much to remark upon it, although everything, as seems +generally the case in this country, was very orderly and well kept. + +The building, however, was not seen to advantage, as a very large +portion of it was burnt down last year, and the new buildings were not +entirely finished. The gentleman who showed us round was very attentive, +and gave us a report of the establishment, which shows how creditably +every one acted in the trying emergency of the fire. He gave us, also, +two numbers of a little periodical, which is written and published by +the inmates. + +We left Utica soon after eleven, and came on to Syracuse, through a +well wooded and better cultivated country than we have yet passed. The +aspect of the country is varied by fields of Indian corn, and tracts of +burnt and charred stumps of trees, the remains of burnt forests. These +stumps are left for some time to rot in the ground, and a few taller +stems, without branches, are left standing, giving the whole a forlorn +appearance but for the thought that the land will soon be cultivated and +return a great produce; were it not for this, one would regret the loss +of the trees, which are turned everywhere here to good account. The +houses and cottages are all wood. The hurdles, used everywhere instead +of hedges, are wood. The floorings of both the large and small stations +are wood, worn to shreds, sometimes, by the tramp of feet. The engine +burns wood. The forests are burnt to get rid of the wood. Long and +enormous stacks of wood line the road continually, and often obstruct +the view. All this made our journey to Syracuse, though interesting, +much tamer than on the preceding days. An accident happened to the +boiler, which detained us at _Rome_, but, as we were luckily near the +station, we soon got another engine. On the whole, one travels with +quite as great a feeling of security as in England. + +From Syracuse to Rochester there are two roads, one short and direct, +and another, which, by taking a southern direction, passes through +Auburn, Cayuga, Geneva, and Canandaigua. We were well repaid by taking +the longer route, as the road went round the heads of the lakes, and in +one case, indeed, crossed the head of the lake where these beautiful +little towns are situated. The views of all these lakes, but especially +of lake Cayuga, and of lake Seneca on which Geneva is situated, are very +lovely. They stretch "right away" between high banks, varying from two +to five miles apart, each forming a beautiful vista, closed up by +distant blue hills at the further end. These lakes vary from thirty to +forty miles in length, and by means of steamboats form an easy +communication, though a more tedious one than the railways, between this +and the southern part of the State of New York. We had a capital +cicerone to explain all that we saw as we went along, in a Yankee, who +told us he was "raised" in these parts, though he lived in "Virginny." +He looked like a small farmer, but had a countenance of the keenest +intelligence. He told papa, before he had spoken five minutes with him, +that it was quite right a person of his intelligence should come to this +country. When we came to Auburn, he quoted "'Sweet Auburn, loveliest +village of the plain;' a beautiful poem, sir, written by Goldsmith, one +of your own poets." We told him we thought of going to St. Paul, beyond +the Mississippi, when he said, "Oh yes! that's a new country--that's a +_cold_ country too. If you are there in the winter, it will make you +_snap_." + +At Rochester we stopped for an hour to dine. We had intended to sleep +there, but none of us being tired, we changed our plan in order to come +on here last night. During this hour we went to see the Falls of the +Genessee, which in some respects surpassed Trenton, as the river is very +broad, and falls in one sheet, from a height of ninety-six feet, over a +perpendicular wall of rock. We dined, and then papa and I took a rapid +walk to the post office, to post a letter to Alfred O., at Toronto. The +streets, as usual, were very wide, with spacious "stores" running very +far back, as they all seem to do in America. I asked when the letter +would reach Toronto, and the man answered, "It ought to do so to-morrow, +but it is uncertain when it will." Papa asked our guide from the hotel +where he was "raised," (papa is getting quite a Yankee), to which he +replied, "in Ireland." I slept, wonderful to say, through part of our +journey here, in one of those most uncomfortable cars, but woke up as +we approached the station. The night was splendid (we had seen the comet +at Rochester), and the moon was so bright as to make it almost as light +as day; you may imagine our excitement when we saw, in the distance, +rising above the trees, a light cloud of mist from the Falls of +Niagara.? + +_Clifton House, September 18th._--Papa got into a melancholy mood at the +International Hotel yesterday evening, on account of the hotel being an +enormous one, and like a huge barrack; half of it we suspect is shut up, +for they gave us small room _au second_, though they acknowledged they +made up four hundred beds, and had only one hundred guests in the house. +The dining room was about one hundred and fifty feet long, and the hotel +was half in darkness from the lateness of the hour, and had no view of +the Falls; so papa got more and more miserable, and I could only comfort +him by reminding him we could be off to this hotel early in the morning; +for as it is the fashion to try first one side for the view, and then +the other, there was no offence in going from the United States to our +own English possessions. On this he cheered up and we went out, and the +first sight we got of this glorious river was at about eleven o'clock, +when he insisted upon my passing over the bridge to Goat Island. It was +the most lovely moonlight night conceivable, and the beams lit up the +crests of the foaming waves as they came boiling over the rapids. It was +a glorious sight, though I was rather frightened, not knowing what +perils might be in store for us. + +To-day we made out our move to the Canada side, and are most comfortably +lodged. Before coming to this hotel, we took a long drive down the +river, on the American side. We got out of the carriage to see the +Devil's Hole, a deep ravine, often full of water, but now dry. We stood +on a high precipice, and had a grand view of the river. The _river_ is +generally passed over in silence in all descriptions of Niagara, and yet +it is one of the most lovely parts of the scene. Its colour after it has +left the Falls, and proceeds on its rapid way, full of life and +animation, to Lake Ontario, is a most tender sea green. We drove on +about six miles, and then crossed a slight suspension bridge (_the_ +suspension bridge being a ponderous structure for the railroad trains to +pass over); but the one by which we crossed looked like a spider's-web; +and the view midway, whether we looked up or down, was the finest +specimen of river scenery I ever beheld. We then turned up the stream, +and came by the English side to a most wonderful whirlpool, formed by +the river making a rapid bend, and proceeding in a course at right +angles to the one it had been previously pursuing; but the violence of +the stream had caused it to proceed a long way first in the original +direction; and it was evidently not till it had scooped, or hollowed +out, a large basin, that it was forced to yield to the barrier that was +opposed to it. This is the sort of bend it takes. + +[Illustration: Whirlpool] + +After dinner we went to deliver a letter which papa had brought for Mr. +Street, who has a house above the Falls. He was not at home; but we went +through the grounds and over a suspension bridge he has built to connect +a large island, also his property, with the mainland. There are, in +fact, not one but many islands, into which one large one has probably, +in the course of time, become divided by the raging torrent. It is just +above the Horse-Shoe Fall, in the midst of the most boisterous part of +the rapids; and it was quite sublime on looking up the river to see the +horizon formed at a considerable level above our heads by the mass of +foaming water. But now for the Falls! + + * * * * * + +You must fill up this blank with your imagination, for no words can +convey any idea of the scene. They far surpass anything we could have +believed of them. This, however, I write after a thorough study of them +from various points of view; for when we first caught a glimpse, in our +drive to-day, of the Fall on the American side, it disappointed us; but +from the verandah of this hotel, on which our bed-room windows open, we +had the first astounding view of the two Falls, with Goat Island +dividing them; and that sight baffles all description. The Horse-Shoe +Fall is magnificent. The curve is so graceful and beautiful; and the +mist so mysterious, rising, as it does, from the depths below, and +presenting the appearance of a moving veil as it glides past, whether +yielding to every breath of wind, or, as now, when driven quickly by a +gale; then the height of the clouds of light white mist rising above the +trees; and, above all, the delicate emerald green where the curve itself +takes place: all these elements of beauty combined, fill the mind with +wonder, when contemplating so glorious a work of God's hand; so simple, +and yet so striking and magnificent. We can gaze at the whole all day +and all night, if we please, from our own windows. The moon being nearly +full, is a _great_ addition to the beauty of the scene. I have +frequently risen from my seat while writing this, to look first at the +rapids above the American Fall, lit up and shining like the brightest +silver; then at the moon on the mist, illuminating first one part of it +and then another. I must proceed with my description of our doings (if I +can) on Monday, before leaving this for Toronto, which we are to do on +Monday afternoon; but this must be posted here, and I should like to +finish my description of Niagara in this letter. We met a real Indian +to-day. He had somewhat of a Chinese cast of countenance. Perhaps we +shall see more of them. It is said that some of the black waiters in +this hotel are escaped slaves, having come to English ground for safety. + +_September 19th._--This being Sunday, we went to a chapel in a village +of native Indians of the Tuscarrara tribe. The chapel was about half +filled with these poor Indians and half with visitors like ourselves. +They have had a missionary among them for about fifty years, and it is +to be hoped that former missionaries talked more sense to them, and +taught them better truths, than the one we heard to-day. His sermon was +both long and tedious, and was interpreted into the Tuscarrara language +sentence by sentence as the preacher, who was a Presbyterian, delivered +it. The burden of it was their ingratitude, not to God, but to the +Government of the United States, which had devoted an untold number of +dollars for their conversion; and he ended by a threat that this +generosity on their part would be withdrawn if they did not alter their +wicked course of life. As we were there for half an hour before the +service began, we had an opportunity of conversing with many of these +poor people, who seemed little to deserve this severe censure, for many +of them had evidently come from a distance, having brought their food +with them, and the people seemed of a quiet and harmless disposition. +Few of them seemed to understand English, and these only the men, as the +women professed, at least, not to understand papa when he tried to talk +to them. They had all of them remarkably piercing and intelligent black +eyes, but were not otherwise good looking. There were two little babies +in their mothers' arms, one in a bright yellow dress. The women wore +handkerchiefs tied over their heads, except one or two who wore round +hats and feathers. Some in hoops and crinolines! All wore bead +necklaces. They are the makers of the well-known mohair and bark and +beadwork. In the churchyard were many tombstones with English +inscriptions. The following is the copy we made of one:-- + + + "SEKWARIHTHICH-DEA WM. CHEW, + + GRAND SACHEM OF THE TUSCARRARA NATION OF INDIANS, + + WHO DIED DEC. 16, 1857, + + In the 61st year of his age. + +The memory of his many virtues will be embalmed in the hearts of + his people, and posterity will speak of his praise. + + He was a good man, and a just. + + He held the office of Grand Sachem 30 years, and was + Missionary Interpreter 29 years." + + +After chapel we returned to the American side of the Fall, where the +_table d'hôte_ dinner was later than at the Clifton Hotel, which we had +missed. While waiting for dinner, we went again to Goat Island, and had +some splendid views of the Falls, the day being magnificent beyond all +description. Papa and William afterwards took a long walk to get a new +view of the whirlpool. Papa has made me dreadfully anxious all day by +going too close to the edges of the precipices; and as the rock is very +brittle and easily crumbles off, and as his feet often trip in walking, +you may suppose the agonies I have been in; at last I began to wish +myself and him safe in the streets of Toronto. I was not the least +frightened for myself, but it was trying to see him always looking over, +and about to lean against old crazy wooden balustrades that William said +must have given way from sheer rottenness with any weight upon them. +This is _such_ a night, not a single cloud; the clearest possible sky +and the moon shining brightly, as it did over the two Falls the first +night we were here. Papa calls me every minute--"Oh come, do come, this +minute; I do not believe you have ever yet seen the Falls!!!" To-morrow +we have one remaining expedition,--to go in a small steamer called the +"Maid of the Mist," which pokes her nose into the two Falls about six +times a day. The passengers are put into waterproof dresses. This I hope +to describe to you to-morrow, and shall despatch my letter before +starting for Toronto. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[2] My English maid. + +[3] The Erie Canal is one of the three great means of communication +which existed previous to the introduction of railways between the +Eastern States and those that lie to the west of the Alleghanies; the +other two being the Pennsylvania and the Baltimore and Ohio Canals. +Sections of these great works are shown on the map. + + + + +LETTER IV. + + + NIAGARA.--MAID OF THE MIST.--ARRIVAL AT + TORONTO.--TORONTO.--THOUSAND ISLANDS.--RAPIDS OF THE ST. + LAWRENCE.--MONTREAL.--VICTORIA BRIDGE. + + + Clifton Hotel, Falls of Niagara, + Sept. 20th, 1858. + +I intended to have wound up the description of Niagara in the letter I +despatched to you two hours ago, but we returned home from our +expedition this morning only five minutes before the post hour for +England, so that our packet had to be hastily closed. + +We had rather a chapter of accidents this morning, but all has ended +well. We went out immediately after breakfast, the weather being +splendid, though there was a high wind, and finding the mist driving +very hard, we decided on going over to the opposite shore across the +suspension bridge, rather than be ferried over to the steamer in a small +open boat, which can never, I imagine, be very pleasant in such a near +neighbourhood to the two Falls. William, however, remained on this side, +preferring the ferry, and we were to meet on the opposite bank and take +to the little steamer; but though our drive took half-an-hour and his +row five minutes, he was not at the place of rendezvous when, we +arrived, nor did he appear after we had waited for him some time. Papa +then went in a sort of open car down an inclined plane, contrived to +save the fatigue of a long stair. On getting to the bottom he saw +nothing of William, and in walking on the wet planks he slipped down and +fell on his side, and cut his face and bruised his eye; he says his eye +was within a hair's breadth of being put out by the sharp corner of a +rock. He walked up the long stair, being too giddy after his fall to +attempt the car, and he felt very headachy and unwell in consequence all +the morning. At last William made his appearance. There had been no +ferryman for a long time, and when he came he knew so little how to +manage the boat, that had not William rowed they would have been down +the river and over the rapids! At last we all four (Thrower included), +started down the inclined plane to the steamer, and were warned by +papa's tumble to take care of our footing. It might easily be made a +more pleasant landing-place than it is by means of their everlasting +wood. We got on to the "Maid of the Mist," and were made to take off our +bonnets and hats, and put on a sort of waterproof capuchin cloak and +hood, and up we went on deck. In one moment we were drenched; the deck +was a running sea, and the mist drove upon us much harder than pouring +rain. I went there with a cold, and if it gets no worse, shall think +fresh water is as innocuous as salt. It was quite a question whether the +thing was worth doing: the day was probably unfavourable, as the mist +drove on us instead of the other way, but some parts were very fine. We +returned to the same landing-place, as they most stupidly have none on +this side; so up we went again in the open cars, and on landing we had +our photographs done twice with views of the Falls as a background. They +were very well and rapidly done. We then drove William towards the Cave +of the Winds, which is a passage behind what looks from these windows a +mere thread of a waterfall, but is really a very considerable one. +Ladies, however, perform this feat as well as gentlemen, but they have +entirely to change their dress--it is like walking through a great +shower-bath to a _cul de sac_ in the rock. Circular rainbows are seen +here, and William saw two; he seemed to be standing on one which made a +perfect circle round him. A certificate was given him of his having +accomplished this feat. While he was doing this we bought a few things +made by the Indians and the Shakers, and then met William, and hurried +home in time only to sign and despatch our letters to England. We then +dined, and I am now obliged suddenly to stop short in writing, as my +despatch-box must be packed, for we leave this at half-past four for +Toronto. + +_Rossin House, Toronto, Sept. 21st._--Our journey here yesterday was not +through as pretty a country as usual, and this part of Canada strikes us +as much tamer than anything we have yet seen in America. We changed +trains at Hamilton and remained there nearly an hour. Sir Allan McNab +has a country house in the neighbourhood, said to be a very pretty one, +and we shall probably go in the train to-morrow to see him. The +railroad, for some time towards the end of our journey yesterday, ran +along the shore of Lake Ontario. The sky was pure and clear, with the +moon shining brightly on the waters of the quiet lake. It was difficult +to believe that the immense expanse of water was not salt. It looked so +like the sea, especially when within a few miles of Toronto we saw tiny +waves and minute pebbles and sand, which gave it an appearance of a +miniature sea beach. Had I not been on a railway when I saw these small +pebbles, I should have picked up some for you, and I think you would +have valued them as much as your cornelians at Cromer. I searched for +them later, and never came up with such a pretty pebbly beach again. + +_Montreal, Sept. 25th._--Unhappily this sheet has been packed up by +mistake for some days, and I have not been able to go on with my +journal, but I resume it this evening, for it must be despatched to you +the day after to-morrow. + +We passed the 22nd and 23rd at Toronto, and had much pleasure there in +seeing a great deal of the Alfred O.'s, and their very nice children, +and it was quite touching to see the pleasure our visit gave them. We +had the sorrow, however, of parting from William, who left us on the +morning of the 23rd for the Far West. He went with Mr. Latham and Mr. +Kilburn, and it was a very great comfort to us that he had such pleasant +companions, instead of travelling such a distance alone. We had an early +visit at Toronto from Mr. and Mrs. W., friends of the O.'s: they begged +us so earnestly to remain over the 23rd to dine with them, that we +consented to do so. Toronto is a most melancholy-looking place. It has +suffered in the "crisis," and the consequence is that wide streets seem +to have been begun but never finished, giving the town a very disastrous +look. There is one wide handsome street with good shops, and our hotel +was an enormous one; but when this is said, there is little more to add +about it, for it looks otherwise very forlorn, and altogether the town +is the least inviting one we have yet seen in our travels. + +In the course of our drive we had an opportunity of seeing the interiors +of some of the houses, many of which display considerable wealth; the +rooms being large, and filled with ornaments of every sort. The ladies +dress magnificently; a handsome coral brooch is often worn, and is +almost an infallible sign, both here and in the United States, of a tour +to Italy having been accomplished; indeed I can feel nearly as certain +that the wearer has travelled so far, by seeing her collar fastened with +it, as if she told me the fact, and many such journeys must have been +performed, judging by the number of coral brooches we see. + +We did little the first day but drive about the streets. We drank tea at +the A. O.'s, and the next day they took us to see one very beautiful +sight; the New University, which is in course of building, and is the +most beautiful structure we have seen in America. Indeed it is the only +one which makes the least attempt at Mediæval architecture, and is a +very correct specimen of the twelfth century. The funds for building +this university arise out of the misappropriation (by secularising them) +of the clergy reserves; the lands appropriated to the college giving +them possession of funds to the amount of about three hundred thousand +pounds. Of this the building, it is supposed, will absorb about one +hundred and twenty thousand pounds, and they propose to lay out a large +sum to increase an already very good library, which is rich in works on +natural history and English topography. Dr. McCaul, who is the president +of the college, is a brother of the preacher in London. + +We dined at the W.'s on the evening of the 23rd. Their house is very +large, having been lately added to, and the town being very busy, +preparing for an Agricultural Meeting, the upholsterer had not time to +put down the carpets or put up the curtains, and the night being cold, +we felt a little twinge of what a Canadian winter is; but the +drawing-rooms were exceedingly pretty,--the walls being very light +stucco, with ornaments in relief, and they were brilliantly lighted. We +were eighteen at dinner, the party including the O.'s, the Mayor, Dr. +and Mrs. McCaul, and Sir Allan McNab, who had come from his +country-place to meet us. The dinner was as well appointed, in all +respects, as if it had taken place in London. In the evening Mrs. W. +sang "Where the bee sucks" most beautifully. Papa encored it, and was +quite delighted at hearing so favourite a song so well sung. The +mayoress also sang, and so did another lady. The furniture of the rooms +was of American oak and black walnut, which are favourite woods; but we +did not much admire them. When we were leaving, Mrs. W. showed us her +bed-room, which was really splendid,--so spacious, and so beautifully +furnished; there was a bath-room near it, and other bed-rooms also of +large dimensions. We drove back to our hotel in the moonlight, so bright +and clear that it was difficult not to suppose it daylight, except that +the planets were so brilliant. + +We took leave that night of the O.'s, as we had to make an early start +next day, and were very sorry to part from them. On the 24th, we were +off at eight in the morning by train to Kingston, arriving there early +in the afternoon. It is the best sleeping-place between Toronto and +Montreal. The road was uninteresting, though at times we came upon the +broad waters of the lake, which varied the scenery. We had an excellent +dinner at the station, and I ought to mention, that as we were +travelling on the Grand Trunk Railway, and on English soil, we had +first class carriages; there being both first and second class on this +line, but varying only in the softness of the seats. There was no other +difference from other lines. + +Kingston is a prosperous little town on the borders of the lake, and the +hotel quite a small country inn. We drove out to see the Penitentiary, +or prison, for the whole of the Two Canadas,--a most massive stone +structure. I never was within prison-walls before, so that I cannot +compare it with others; but, though papa had much admired the prison at +Boston, he preferred the principle of giving the prisoners work in +public (which is the case at Kingston), to the solitary system at +Boston. We saw the men hard at work making furniture, and in the +blacksmith's forge, and making an enormous quantity of boots; they work +ten hours a day in total silence, and all had a subdued look; but we +were glad to think they had employment, and could see each other. Their +food is excellent,--a good meat diet, and the best bread. The +sleeping-places seemed to us dreadful little solitary dens, though the +man who showed us over them said they were better than they would have +had on board ship. There were sixty female prisoners employed in making +the men's clothes, but these we were not allowed to see. One lady is +permitted to visit them, in order to give them religious instruction, +but they do not otherwise see the visitors to the prison. There are +prisoners of all religious denominations, a good many being Roman +Catholics; and there are chaplains to suit their creeds, and morning and +evening prayers. + +We walked back to Kingston, and on the walls observed notices of a +meeting to be held in the town that evening, to remonstrate against the +work done by the prisoners, which is said to injure trade; but, as we +were to make a very early start in the morning, we did not go to it. + +We were called at half-past four to be ready for the boat which started +at six for Montreal. It was a rainy morning, and I awoke in a rather +depressed state of mind, with the prospect before me of having to +descend the rapids of the St. Lawrence in the steamer; and as the +captain of our vessel in crossing the Atlantic had said, he was not a +little nervous at going down them, I thought I might be so too. We had +first, however, to go through the Thousand Islands, which sounds very +romantic, but turned out rather a failure. There are in reality about +1,400 of these islands, where the river St. Lawrence issues from Lake +Ontario. The morning was unpropitious, it being very rainy, and this, no +doubt, helped to give them a dismal appearance. They are of all forms +and sizes, some three miles long, and some hardly appearing above the +water. The disappointment to us was their flatness, and their all being +alike in their general aspect, being covered with light wood. When this +is lit up by the sun, they are probably very pretty, as we experienced +later in the day, which turned out to be a most brilliant one. The +islands are generally uninhabited, except by wild ducks, deer, foxes, +raccoons, squirrels, musk-rats, and minxes, and also by partridges in +abundance. We have tasted the wild duck, which is very good. + +About one o'clock in the day we lost sight of the islands, except a few, +which occasionally are scattered along the river; we had no longer +however to thread our way among them, as we had done earlier in the day. +Dinner was at two, but we were not much disposed to go down, for we had +just passed one rapid, and were coming to the finest of all, the Cedars; +but they turned out to be by no means alarming to an unpractised eye. +The water is much disturbed, and full of small crests of waves. There +were four men at the wheel, besides four at the tiller, and they had no +doubt to keep a sharp look out; we stood on deck, and received a good +sea in our faces, and were much excited by the scene. The longest rapid +occupied us about twenty minutes, being nine miles long. It is called +the Long Sault. The banks on either side continued flat; we stopped +occasionally at pretty little villages to take in passengers or wood, +but these stoppages told much against our progress, and the days now +being short, we were informed that the vessel could not reach Montreal +that night. There is a rapid a few miles above Montreal, which is the +most dangerous of them all, and cannot be passed in the dark. The boat, +therefore, stopped at La Chine for the night, and we had our choice of +sleeping on board or landing and taking the train for eight miles to +Montreal; and as we had seen all the rest of the rapids, and did not +feel much disposed for the pleasure of a night in a small cabin, we +decided on landing. We had tea first, with plenty of cold meat on the +table, and the fare was excellent on board, with no extra charge for it. + +Before landing we had a most magnificent sunset. The sun sank at the +stern of the vessel; and the sky remained for an hour after in the most +exquisite shades of colouring, from clear blue, shading to a pale green, +and then to a most glorious golden colour. The water was of the deepest +blue, and the great width of the noble river added to the grandeur of +the scene. The Canadian evenings and nights are surpassingly beautiful. +The atmosphere is so light, and the colouring of the sunset and the +bright light of the moon are beyond all description. We made +acquaintance with a couple of Yankees on board, who amused us much. They +were a young couple, travelling, they said, for pleasure. They looked of +the middle class, and were an amusing specimen of Yankee vulgarity. The +lady's expression for admiration was "ullegant:" the dinner was +"ullegant," the sunset was "ullegant," and so was the moonrise, and so +were the corn-cakes and corn-pops _fixed_ by herself or her mother. She +was delighted with the bead bracelet I was making, and I gave her a +pattern of the beads. She was astonished to find that the English made +the electric cable. She and her husband mean to go to England and +Scotland in two years. I was obliged to prepare her for bad hotels and +thick atmosphere, at both of which she seemed astonished. She was also +much surprised that she would not find Negro waiters in London. They +remained on board for the night; and on meeting her in the street +yesterday, she assured us the last rapid was "ullegant," and that we had +missed much in not seeing it. + +We arrived at Montreal at eight o'clock on the evening of the 24th, and +walked a little about the town. The moon was so bright that colours +could be clearly distinguished. We yesterday spent many hours on the +Victoria bridge which is building here across the river in connection +with the Grand Trunk Railway. It is a most wonderful work, and I must +refer you to an interesting article in the last _Edinburgh Review_ for a +full account of it. Papa had letters to the chief officials of the +railway, which procured us the advantage of being shown the work in +every detail by Mr. Hodges (an Englishman), who has undertaken the +superintendence of it--the plans having been given him by Stephenson. +The expense will be enormous--about a million and a quarter sterling; +almost all raised in England. The great difficulties to be contended +with are:--the width of the river--it being two miles wide at this +point; its rapidity--the current running at the rate of seven miles an +hour; and the enormous masses of ice which accumulate in the river in +the winter; rising as high sometimes as the houses on either side, and +then bursting their bounds and covering the road. The stone piers are +built with a view to resist as much as possible this pressure; and a +great number of them are finished, and have never yet received a +scratch from the ice, which is satisfactory. Their profile is of this +form. And this knife-like edge cuts the ice through as it passes down +the river, enabling the blocks to divide at the piers and pass under the +bridge on each side. The piers are built of limestone, in blocks varying +from eight to ten feet high: but in sinking a foundation for them, +springs are frequently met with under some large boulders in the bed of +the river, and this causes great delay, as the water has to be pumped +out before the building can proceed. The bridge will be an iron tubular +one; the tubes come out from Birkenhead in pieces, and are riveted +together here. We first rowed across the river with Mr. Hodges in a +six-oared boat; and the day being warm and very fine, we enjoyed it +much. This gave us some idea of the breadth of the river and of the +length of the bridge, of which it is impossible to judge when seen +fore-shortened from the shore. + +[Illustration: Bridge piers] + +We then mounted the bridge and were astonished at the magnitude of the +work. There is an immense forest of woodwork underneath most of it at +present, but they are glad to clear this away as fast as the progress of +the upper work admits, as if left till winter the force of the ice cuts +through these enormous beams as if they were straw. We could only +proceed across two piers at the end furthest from the town, but here we +had a very fine view of Montreal, lying at the foot of the hill from +which it takes its name. It has many large churches, the largest being +the Roman Catholic cathedral, and the tin roofs of the houses and +churches glittered in the sun and gave a brilliant effect. We returned +to the boat and rowed again across the river below the bridge, and here, +owing to the strength of the current our boat had to pursue a most +zig-zag path, pulling up under the eddy of each buttress, but our +boatmen knew well what they were about, as they are in the habit of +taking Mr. Hodges daily to the bridge and it was very pretty to hear the +warning of _doucement! doucement!_ from the helmsman as we approached +any peril. Mr. H. said that without the familiarity they had with the +river, the boat would in an instant be carried down the stream and out +of all control. The French language is much more spoken than the +English, there being a large body of French Roman Catholic Canadians +here and at Quebec. I say this to account for the _doucement_; but must +now leave this wonderful bridge, and tell you that after seeing it we +drove to the Bishop of Montreal's. We found him and Mrs. Fulford at +home, and sat some time with them, and they asked us to drink tea with +them, which we did. There was no one there but ourselves, and we passed +an agreeable evening with them, and came home by moonlight with the +comet also beaming on us. + +_September 27th._--We went yesterday morning to a small church in the +suburbs where the bishop preached. We found Lord and Lady Radstock in +the hotel, and papa walked with him in the afternoon, and endeavoured to +learn something of the Christian Young Men's Association here. They +found the secretary at home, and from him learnt that the revivals of +religion here have lately been of a satisfactory nature, and that there +is a great deal of religious feeling at work among the middle classes. I +forgot to mention that on Saturday we met a long procession of nuns +going to the church of Notre Dame, which gave the place a very foreign +look. We went into the church for a few minutes. It was very large, part +of it was well filled, and a French sermon going on. There are a good +many convents here, and I shall try to visit one. The Jesuits are said +to be very busy. We hear French constantly spoken in the streets. We +went to church again yesterday evening, when the bishop preached on the +text, "Demas hath forsaken me." + +To-day we took Lord and Lady Radstock to Mr. Hodges, who promised to +show them over the bridge, and since that papa and I have had a pleasant +drive round the mountain. From one part we had a good view of the Ottawa +river, celebrated by Moore, who wrote his Canadian boat song in a canoe +on the rapids of that river. The town of Ottawa has been named by the +Queen as the seat of Government; but after consulting her on the +subject, the inhabitants seem disinclined to take her advice. The views +were very pretty, and the day warm and pleasant. As we drove we +frequently saw on the walls, large placards with a single text in French +or English, an evidence of the work of the revival going on here. We +wound up our visit to Montreal by buying some furs, this being the best +place to get them: they are to be shipped from here in a sailing vessel, +and therefore will not reach London for some time, but notice will be +sent of their coming; so be on the look out for them some day. We are +off this afternoon for Quebec, where we hope to find some good news from +you all. So adieu, my dear child. + + + + +LETTER V. + + + JOURNEY FROM MONTREAL TO QUEBEC.--QUEBEC.--FALLS OF + MONTMORENCY.--ISLAND POND.--WHITE MOUNTAINS.--PORTLAND.--RETURN TO + BOSTON.--HARVARD UNIVERSITY.--NEWHAVEN.--YALE UNIVERSITY.--RETURN + TO NEW YORK. + + + Portland Maine, Sept. 29th, 1858. + +I closed my last letter to you at Montreal, since which we have been +travelling so much that I have had no time for writing till to-night. I +must now, therefore, endeavour to resume the thread of my narrative, +though it is a little perplexing to do so after going over so much +ground as we have done lately in a short space of time. + +We left Montreal early in the afternoon of the 27th, in company with Mr. +and Mrs. Bailey. He is one of the managers of the Grand Trunk Railway, +and came with us as far as Quebec, as a sort of guard of honour or +escort, papa having been specially commended to the care of the +_employés_ on this line. Both he and his wife are English. We crossed +the St. Lawrence in a steam-ferry to join the railway, and as long as +it was light we had a most delightful journey through a highly +cultivated country, covered with small farms, which came in quick +succession on both sides of the road. These farms are all the property +of French Canadians, and on each one there is a wooden dwelling-house, +with barns and out-houses attached to it, and the land runs down from +the front of the tenement to the railroad. There is no hedge to be seen +anywhere, and these long strips of fields looked very like allotment +lands in England, though on a larger scale. These proprietors have been +possessors of the soil from the time of the first settlement of the +French in Canada, and the farms have suffered from the subdivision of +property consequent on the French law of succession. They are so close +together that, when seen at a distance, the houses look like a +continuous line of street as far as the eye can reach, but we soon lost +sight of them in the obscurity occasioned by forests and the approach of +night. We passed many log huts, which, though very rude, do not seem +uncomfortable dwellings. + +We saw little of the country as we approached Quebec, and were conscious +only of crossing the Chaudière river and of going along its banks for +some way, and afterwards along those of the St. Lawrence, till we +reached Point Levi, opposite Quebec. Here we got into a steamer to cross +the river, and from the steamer we had a grand view of the citadel and +town of Quebec, the tin spires shining jointly with the moon and the +comet; for we beg to say we do not require telescopes of high power, as +we see by the papers you do in England, to detect the latter luminary, +which really does look here almost as if it added to the light of the +night. Papa and I differ greatly as to the length of its tail. I say it +looks two yards long, but papa says it is difficult to tell this, but +that it is really about a degree and a half in length, or about six +diameters of the moon. The nucleus is larger and brighter than any star +in the Great Bear, and these are all bright here to a degree of which +you can form no idea. The planets look as large as fourpenny-pieces. +Papa has made me reduce them to this estimate, as I originally said as +large as sixpences; but he questions altogether my appreciation of the +size of the heavenly bodies, which do all seem wonderfully large to my +eyes. + +On reaching the north side of the river, on which Quebec stands, we got +into an omnibus and drove up streets of a most tremendous ascent; it was +really quite alarming, as the pavement was in the most dreadful state, +and the omnibus, which was very rickety, was crammed with passengers. +Next morning we got up very early, and papa went out before breakfast to +inquire for the letters which we expected to receive from England, but +which had not yet arrived. + +After an early breakfast we went in an open carriage to the Falls of +Montmorency, and I think I never had a more lovely drive. We passed +through several most prosperous-looking villages, and between farm +houses so closely adjoining each other as to give the appearance of a +long suburb to the city. At Beauport, about half-way between Quebec and +Montmorency, there is a splendid Roman Catholic church, which would do +credit to any country. The inhabitants here and at Quebec generally are +entirely French Canadians, and the driver here, as at Montreal, was +quite in the Coharé[4] style for intelligence and respectable +appearance. The falls of Montmorency are a little way off the road, and +the approach to the top of the fall down a flight of wooden stairs is +very easy. The river here descends in one great fall of 250 feet, and as +the river is 60 feet wide, the proportion between the height and the +breadth of the fall seems nearly perfect. It falls almost into the St. +Lawrence, as it tumbles over the very bank of the latter river, and the +view up and down the glorious St. Lawrence is here very beautiful. We +were elevated so far above the bottom of the chasm that the spray +apparently rose up only a short way, but it really does rise upwards of +150 feet, and in winter it freezes and forms a cone of ice exceeding 100 +feet in height, which is said to present a most wonderful appearance. + +Returning to Quebec we had a splendid view of the town. The fortress on +Cape Diamond seemed to jut out into the river, along the banks of which, +and rising to a great height above it, the town lay in all its glory. +The tops of the houses and the spires of the churches are covered with +tin, and from the dryness of the atmosphere it looks as fresh and +polished as if just put up. The sun was shining splendidly, and the +effect was almost dazzling. This and the richness of the intervening +country produced an impression which it would be difficult to efface +from the memory. The citadel, I should think, is hardly as high as the +castles of Edinburgh or Stirling, but in this country everything (even +to the heavenly bodies!!!) is on such a scale that it is not easy to +draw comparisons. The guide book, however, says that the rock rises 350 +feet perpendicularly from the river, so that by looking at some of your +books of reference, you may find out which is the highest. The approach +is from the town behind, by a zig-zag road, and the fortifications seem +very formidable and considerable, though papa says greatly inferior to +Gibraltar, or to Malta, which it more strongly resembles as a work of +art. + +Mr. Baily procured us an order for admission, so that we went to the +highest point, and the view up and down the river was truly magnificent. +A little below the town it is divided by an island of considerable size, +and as the river takes a bend here, it is rather difficult to make out +its exact course. The town is situated at the junction of the St. +Lawrence and the St. Charles, and as the latter forms a large bay or +estuary at the confluence, the whole has a very lake-like appearance. + +We left the citadel at the gate opposite the one at which we entered, +and getting out upon the plains of Abraham, saw the monument erected on +the spot where Wolfe fell; close to it is an old well from which water +was brought to him to relieve his thirst after he had received his +mortal wound. Another monument is erected within the citadel, in what +is called the Governor's Garden. This is raised to the joint memories of +Wolfe and the French general, Montcalm, who was also mortally wounded in +the same action. From the plains of Abraham there is a beautiful view up +the river, and here, as on the other side of the town, the country at a +distance is studded with farm houses. In a circuit we made of two or +three miles in the vicinity of the town, we passed a number of really +splendid villas belonging to English residents, but with this exception +all seemed much more French than English, excepting that in _la vieille +France_ we never saw such order, cleanliness, and comfort, nor could +these be well surpassed in any country. + +The small farmers here live entirely upon the produce of their farms; +they knit their own stockings, and weave their own grey coarse cloth. We +looked into several of their houses, and the extreme cleanliness of +every little corner of their dwellings was wonderful. The children seem +very healthy and robust-looking. The whole population talk French. The +crosses by the roadside proclaim them to be Roman Catholics, and the +extensive convents in the town tend doubtless to the promotion of the +temporal comforts of the poorer inhabitants. The principal church was +richly decorated with gilding up to the roof, and the gold, from the +dryness of the climate, was as bright as if newly laid on. + +The extreme clearness of the air of Canada contributed, no doubt, +greatly to the beauty of everything we saw, though we found the cold +that accompanied it rather sharper than we liked. Mrs. Baily told me +that it is a curious sight to see the market in the winter, everything +being sold in a frozen state. The vegetables are dug up in the beginning +of winter, and are kept in cellars and from thence brought to market. A +month's consumption can be bought at a time, without the provisions +spoiling, as all remains frozen till it is cooked. The sheep and pigs +are seen standing, as if alive, but in a thoroughly frozen state. The +winter lasts from November till April. Sleighing is the universal and +only mode of travelling. The sleighs, which are very gay, are covered +with bells, and the travellers in them are usually clothed in expensive +furs. Pic-nics are carried on in the winter, to arrange which committees +are formed, each member inviting his friends till the parties often +number 100. They then hire a large room for dancing, and the guests +dress themselves in their ball dresses, and then envelope themselves in +their furs, and start at six in the evening for their ball, frequently +driving in their sleighs for several miles by moonlight to the place of +rendezvous. Open sleighs are almost always used for evening parties, and +apparently without any risk, although the evening dress is put on before +starting. There is great danger without care of being frost-bitten +during a Canadian winter, but it must be a very gay and pretty sight to +see sleighs everywhere, and all seem to enjoy the winter much, though +the cold is very intense. + +We left Quebec early in the afternoon of the 28th, having called at the +post-office on our way to the train, and got our English letters. We now +passed during the day what we missed seeing the night before, on our +approach to Quebec. In crossing the Chaudière we could see the place +where this large river plunges over a perpendicular rock 130 feet high, +and the river being here very broad, the falls must be very fine, but +though we passed close above them, we could only distinguish the +difference of level between the top and the bottom, and see the cloud of +spray rising above the whole. The road till night-fall passed chiefly +through forest lands. The stations were good, though sometimes very +small, and at one of the smallest the station-master was the son of an +English clergyman. + +At Richmond we parted company with the Bailys and got on to Island +Pond, where we slept at a large and most comfortable hotel. From +Richmond the road passes through a very pretty country, but its beauties +were lost upon us, as the night was very dark and there was no moon. +This also caused us to miss seeing the beauties of Island Pond on our +arrival there, but we were fully repaid by the sight which greeted our +eyes in the morning, when we looked out of our window. The Americans +certainly have grand notions of things, this Island Pond being a lake of +considerable dimensions studded with beautiful islands, and surrounded +on all sides by finely wooded hills, up which the heavy mist rose half +way, presenting the appearance we have so often seen in Switzerland, of +hills apparently rising out of a frozen ocean. The mist too, covering +the surface of the water, gave it a snow-like look, and altogether the +sight was very lovely. The road from this to Gorham was most +interesting, being down the course of the Androscoggan river through a +very wide valley, with high hills on both sides. + +We left the train at the Alpine House at Gorham, to take a peep at the +White Mountains. We were kept waiting some little time at Gorham, while +the wheels of the _buggy_, that was to take us to the foot of Mount +Washington, were being examined. This vehicle was a sort of +double-bodied pony chair, of a very rickety description, the front seat +being contrived to turn over, so as to make more room for those at the +back to get in and out, the consequence was that it was always disposed, +even with papa's weight upon it, to turn over, and throw him upon the +horses' tails. Thrower and I sat behind, and papa and the driver in the +front, and I held on tightly by the back, which had the double advantage +of keeping me in, and of preventing his tumbling out. We had two capital +horses, and were driven for eight miles by the side of a mountain +torrent called by the unromantic name of the Peabody River. The woods +through which we passed were extremely pretty, and the torrent was our +companion throughout the drive. The road was of the roughest possible +description, over large boulders and up and down hills. The only wonder +was, that we were not tossed out of our carriage and into the torrent. +The leaves were beginning to turn, and some of the foliage was extremely +beautiful, particularly that of the moosewood, the large leaf of which +turns to a rich mulberry colour. We picked several of them to dry. + +On reaching the Glen House, we found ourselves in front of a very large +hotel, standing in an amphitheatre of mountains. These are called by +the names of the presidents, Washington, Monroe, Adams, Jefferson, and +Madison. Washington is 6500 feet high, and seven others, which form a +continuous line of peaks, are higher than Ben Nevis. Although snow has +fallen this year, they seem free from snow just now, but they all have a +white appearance from the greyish stone of which they are formed, and +hence the name of the White Mountains. We went a short way up the ascent +to Mount Washington, and judging from this beginning, the road up the +mountain must be very beautiful. For two-thirds of the height they are +covered with splendid forest trees. When, at this season, the leaves are +changing in places to a deep crimson, the effect is very fine. The upper +part of these mountains seems to consist of barren rocks. We returned +and dined at the Alpine House. Both papa and I were seriously frightened +in our walks, especially at the Glen House, by encountering three +savage-looking bears. Luckily before we had shouted for help, we +discovered they were chained, but the first being exactly in a path we +were trying to walk along, really alarmed us. + +We left Gorham for Portland at about four o'clock. The road the greater +part of the way is perfectly beautiful. It continued along the course +of the Androscoggan, with the White Mountains on one side, and with a +range, which to our eyes appeared quite as high, on the other. When we +left the river, the road was diversified by passing several large lakes, +one of which, called Bryant's Pond, resembled Island Pond in beauty. + +_October 1st._--We got up betimes yesterday to see Portland, which it +was too late to do to any purpose on the evening of our arrival. Papa +delivered his letter to Mr. Miller, the agent here of the Grand Trunk +Railway, and he accompanied us on the heights, from which we were able +to look down upon the town and its noble harbour--the finest in the +United States. As it is here that the Leviathan is destined to come if +she ever does cross the Atlantic, they have, at a great expense, made a +wharf to receive her. The harbour is entirely land-locked and studded +with islands. The day was very fine, but not so clear as the day before, +or we should have seen the White Mountains, which are clearly visible +from this, although sixty miles distant in a right line. The city is +very beautiful, and, like all the New England towns, most clean and well +conditioned. Each street is embellished by avenues of elm trees of a +larger size than we have yet seen in America, with the exception of +those in the park of Boston. + +We had here an opportunity of witnessing a very pretty sight, which was +the exercising of the Fire Companies, of which there are nine in this +town. Each Company had an engine as clean and bright as if it had just +come out of the maker's hands, and the firemen attached to them were +dressed in uniforms, each of a different colour. Long ropes were +fastened to these engines, by which the men drew them along. To each +engine there was also attached a brigade of men, wearing helmets, and +fire-proof dresses. They seemed altogether a fine body of men. We did +not wait to see the result of the trial, as to which engine could pump +furthest, which, with a reward of $100 to be given to the successful +engine, was the object of their practising. These Fire Companies seem to +be a great "Institution" everywhere in the United States, the troop at +New York having figured greatly in the Cable rejoicings. The companies +of different towns are in the habit of paying visits to each other, when +great fêtes take place, and much good-fellowship is shown. Fires are +very frequent in the great towns, but the means of extinguishing them +must be great in proportion, judging from what we have seen here. These +companies are said to be very well organised, and as they act as a +police also, very little pilfering takes place. Mr. Miller afterwards +took us to a part of the suburbs to show us some very pretty villas, +with gardens more cared for than any we have yet seen. + +We left Portland in the afternoon. There are two railways from Portland +to Boston, and we selected the lower or sea-coast road. The country was +not very pretty, the shore being flat, but as we approached the seaports +of Portsmouth, Newburyport, and Salem, the views improved, especially in +the neighbourhood of Portsmouth, which stands on a neck of land jutting +far into the sea. There was a great deal of hay standing on meadows +which were flooded by the sea water; to protect the stacks, they were +built upon platforms supported by stone pillars, which had a curious +effect. The crops seemed very abundant, for the stacks were large and +close together and spread over a wide area. The quality of this salted +hay is said to be good, and the animals like it very much. + +We got to Boston late last night, and to-day papa paid a long visit to +Judge Curtis, and we went afterwards on a railway, drawn by horses, to +see the famous Harvard University, in the town of Cambridge, which lies +about four miles to the west of Boston. When Mr. Jared Sparkes, the +late president, was in England, papa, at Mr. Morgan's request, gave him +letters to Cambridge, and upon the strength of this we called on him and +were most graciously received by Mrs. Sparkes, who entertained us till +Mr. Sparkes returned from Boston. He is a very pleasing and intelligent +man; before parting they gave us letters to Professor Silliman, of the +sister University of Yale, at New Haven. We met here too Mr. and Mrs. +Stevens, who accompanied us back to Boston, and loaded us with +introductions to the same place. + +The town of Cambridge occupies a good deal of ground, for the so-called +streets are avenues of beautiful trees, with villas interspersed between +them. In an open space in the centre of the town, there is a most +magnificent tree, called the Washington Elm, noted, not only for its +size, but for its being historically connected with Washington. There is +a large library belonging to the college; and the college is in every +way very flourishing; but as we mean to return here again, we did not +think it worth while now to see it in detail.[5] + +_October 2nd._--Papa went last night to a meeting, which is held every +night for prayer, at the Young Men's Christian Association, and was +extremely pleased with what he saw and heard. He was there for half an +hour before the prayers began. These lasted from nine till ten. Papa was +placed in the seat of honour, in a chair beside the President, and was +asked by him to address the meeting; but he got out of it by saying that +he came to listen and not to speak, and added only a few words on the +great interest with which these revivals in America were looked upon in +England. He was very much interested with the whole of the proceedings, +which were conducted with extreme moderation and right feeling. + +To-day we made an early start, and at first went over the ground which +we travelled when we left Boston for Niagara; but instead of leaving the +Connecticut river at Springfield, as we did on that occasion, we +followed its course to Hartford, and finally came on to New Haven, from +which place I am now writing. + +We arrived at two o'clock, and, after getting some food, called on +Professor Silliman, who took us over the University, and showed us the +museum, where there are some wonderful foot-prints on slabs of rock, +which have been found in this country. There is also here one of the +largest meteoric stones that is known. In the library there are many +books which were given to it by Bishop Berkeley, whose memory seems as +much respected here as it is at Newport. + +_October 3rd._--Professor Silliman called on us this morning at ten +o'clock, and brought with him Mr. Sheffield, an influential person in +this neighbourhood, and a great patron of the University. As Mr. +Sheffield was an Episcopalian, he took us to his church, where we heard +a most striking sermon, and afterwards received the Communion. The +number of communicants was very large. We are very much struck at seeing +how well Sunday is observed in America. There are about thirty churches +in New Haven, and they are all, we are told, well filled. These churches +are of various denominations; but there seems a total want of anything +like a parochial system. + +Papa went afterwards to the College chapel, or rather church, where the +young men attached to the University were assembled in the body of the +building. Papa was in the gallery, which is appropriated to the +Professors and their families. There are no less than forty-one +Professors at Yale, including those of theology, law, and medicine, +which are all studied here. + +The sciences take greatly the lead over the classics. When we remarked +to Professor Silliman how great the proportion of scientific Professors +seemed to be, he said the practical education which was given in this +country, rendered this more necessary than in England, where men have +more time and leisure for literary pursuits. This is no doubt the case, +and in this country the devotion of every one's time and talents to +money-making is much to be regretted, for it is the non-existence of a +highly educated class that tends to keep down the general tone of +society here, by not affording any standard to look up to. It is curious +what a depressing effect is caused in our minds by the equality we see +every where around us; it is very similar to what we lately felt when on +the shores of their vast lakes,--tideless, and therefore lifeless, when +compared to the sea with its ever-varying heights. If I may carry this +idea further, I might say there is another point of resemblance between +the physical and moral features of the country, inasmuch as when the +waters of these lakes of theirs are stirred up and agitated by storms, +they are both more noisy and more dangerous than those of the real +ocean. + +New Haven is considered to be the most beautiful town in America, and it +is marvellously beautiful. The elm is a very fine tree on this +continent. It is of a peculiar kind, rising to a great height before +any branches shoot out, thus producing large overhanging branches like a +candelabrum. It is common in all American towns, but this is called by +pre-eminence the City of Elms. There are broad avenues in every +direction, the branches of the trees meeting across and forming shady +walks on the hottest day. + +The shops, relatively to the size of the town, are as good as any we +have seen in the larger cities. Next to the booksellers' shops, or book +stores as they call them, the most striking, if they are not the most +striking of all, are the chemists' shops, which abound here as +elsewhere. They are of enormous size, and are kept in perfect order, +though the marvel is lessened when the variety of their contents is +considered, this being of a very miscellaneous description, chiefly +perfumery, at all events not restricted to drugs. Hat stores and boot +stores are very numerous, and labels of "Misses' Hats" and "Gents' Pants +fixed to patterns," are put up in the windows. + +In the afternoon Professor Silliman took papa a long walk in the +country, and geologised him among basaltic rocks of great beauty; and in +passing through the woods, they made a grand collection of red leaves. I +had, during this walk, been deposited with Mrs. Silliman, and we +remained and drank tea with them. The professor's father, also +Professor Silliman, a most energetic gentleman, upwards of eighty years +old, came to meet us, as did Professor Dana and one or two others, +including the gentleman who preached to the boys. I cannot get papa to +tell me how he preached, and must draw my own conclusion from his +silence. He will only admit that the pew was very comfortable and the +cushion soft, and as he was kept awake all last night by mosquitoes, the +inference to be drawn is not difficult. I have since been employed in +arranging my leaves in a blotting-book, which I got at Boston for that +purpose, and as it is late must close this for to-night. + +_New York, October 4th._--We left New Haven this morning and arrived +here this afternoon. The intermediate country along the northern shore +of Long Island Sound is very interesting. We crossed a great many rivers +which in England would be deemed large ones, at the mouths of which were +pretty villages, but we passed so rapidly that we had scarcely time to +do more than catch a glimpse of them. As the mail leaves to-morrow, I +must conclude this. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[4] Our driver, some years ago, at Pau. + +[5] We, unfortunately, never had an opportunity of returning to +Cambridge. + + + + +LETTER VI. + + + DESTRUCTION OF THE CRYSTAL + PALACE.--PHILADELPHIA.--CEMETERY.--GIRARD + COLLEGE.--BALTIMORE.--AMERICAN LITURGY.--RETURN TO + PHILADELPHIA.--PENITENTIARY.--RETURN TO NEW YORK. + + + New York, 12th Oct. 1858. + +We have seen comparatively so little since I last wrote to you, that I +have hesitated about sending by this mail any account of our travels; +but I believe, upon the whole, it may be as well to give you an account +of our movements up to this time. + +My last letter would tell you of our arrival at this place. The evening +was so fine, that papa and I were induced to go to the Crystal Palace. +Although very inferior to ours at Sydenham, it was interesting as being +filled with an immense variety of farming implements, which had been +brought together for the great annual agricultural show. There were also +large collections of sewing machines, hydraulic presses, and steam +engines, besides collections of smaller articles, watches, jewellery, +&c.; and a great many statues, including the original models of +Thorwaldsen's colossal group of our Saviour and the Apostles. The place +was brilliantly lighted up, and the effect was very striking. + +Next day papa was returning home and saw a dense cloud of smoke hanging +over the town; and on approaching the spot, found the poor palace and +all its contents a thing of the past; one minaret only being left of the +building. The whole had been consumed by fire in _ten minutes_; so rapid +was the progress of the flames from the time of their first bursting +out, that in that short space of time the dome had fallen in; and +wonderful to say, though there were more than 2000 people, chiefly women +and children, in the building when the alarm was given, the whole of +them escaped uninjured. + +We waited on in New York till Friday the 8th, vainly hoping to hear +tidings of William; although by a letter received from him a day or two +before, he said he should probably be at Baltimore on Saturday. With +this uncertainty hanging over his plans, we determined on going there; +and on Friday night got as far as Philadelphia by the Camden and Amboy +Railway, through a country far from pretty, compared with what we have +been accustomed to. + +Philadelphia is situated between the Delaware and the Schuylkill, at +about six miles above the junction of the two rivers. In order to reach +the town we had to cross the Delaware, which we did in a steamer of huge +proportions. It was getting dark when we landed at Philadelphia; and we +were much struck with the large and broad streets and well-lighted +shops. It is said of New York, that the winding lanes and streets in the +old part of the town, originated in the projectors of the city having +decided to build their first houses along paths which had been +established by the cattle when turned into the woods. The projectors of +Philadelphia have certainly avoided this error, if error it was; for +there the streets throughout the city are as regular as the squares of a +chess board, which a map of the city much resembles. The streets extend +from one river to the other. + +We got up next morning betimes; and as it is our intention to see the +town more thoroughly hereafter, we took advantage of a lovely day (but +what day is not here beautiful) to see a cemetery situated upon a bend +of the Schuylkill. It is very extensive; for they have so much elbow +room in this country that they can afford to have things on a large +scale; and everything here partook of this feature. The plots of ground +allotted to each family were capacious squares, ornamented with flowers, +surrounded by white marble balustrades, and large enough to contain +separate tombstones, often inside walks, and sometimes even iron +arm-chairs and sofas. The monuments were all of white marble, of which +material there seems here to be a great abundance, and none of them were +offensive in their style, but on the contrary were in general in that +good taste, which the Americans in some way or other, how we cannot make +out, contrive to possess. + +We went afterwards to see the famous Girard College, for the education +of orphan boys. Mr. Girard bequeathed two millions of dollars to found +it, and his executors have built a massive marble palace, quite +unsuited, it struck us, to the purpose for which it was intended; and +the education we are told, is unsuited likewise to the station in life +of the boys who are brought up in it. As in most public institutions for +the purposes of education in this country, no direct religious +instruction is given. This does not seem in general to proceed from any +want of appreciation of its importance, but is owing to the difficulty, +where there is no predominant creed, of giving instruction in any: but +in the case of the Girard institution, even this excuse for the +omission cannot be made, for a stipulation was imposed by Mr. Girard in +his will, that no minister of any denomination should ever enter its +walls, even as a visitor, though this, we understand is not carried out. +For the first time in America we met here with a most taciturn official, +and could learn much less than we wished of the manner in which the +institution is managed. + +On Saturday the 9th, being the same afternoon, we went on to Baltimore, +and were perplexed at not finding letters from William; but to our great +relief he made his appearance in the evening, much pleased with his +travels. + +The country from Philadelphia to Baltimore, like that which we passed +through on the preceding day, is much less interesting than the country +to the north of New York; but a grand feature of the road we travelled +was the Susquehanna River, which is here very broad, and which we +crossed in a large steamer, leaving the train we were in, and joining +another which was in readiness on the other side. The point at which we +crossed the river, was at the spot where it falls into the Chesapeake. +The shores of this beautiful bay are profusely indented with arms or +estuaries, the heads of which, as well as the mouths of several +tributary rivers, we repeatedly crossed on long bridges: this afforded +a great variety in the scenery, and much enlivened the last part of our +journey. + +Next day being Sunday, we heard an admirable sermon from Dr. Cox. The +church in which he preached was a large and handsome one, and the +service was well performed. In describing the service at West Point, I +mentioned that it differed in some respects from our own. We have now +had frequent opportunities of becoming acquainted with the American +liturgy; and, as it will interest some of you at home, I may as well +tell you a little in what those differences consist, with which we were +most forcibly struck. + +Some alterations were of course rendered necessary by the establishment +of a republic, but these seem to have been confined as far as possible +to what the occasion called for. I think, however, in spite of their +republicanism, they might have retained the Scriptural expression, "King +of Kings, and Lord of Lords," instead of changing it to the inflated, +"High and Mighty Ruler of the Universe." This reminded us of the doubt +raised by some, when Queen Victoria came to the throne, if the words +ought not then to have been changed to "King of Queens." It is pleasing, +however, to observe how small the variations in general are, if indeed +there be any, which are at variance with either the doctrine or the +discipline of the Church of England. + +We are so much accustomed to the opening sentences of our own Liturgy, +"When the wicked man turneth away from the wickedness that he hath +committed," &c., that their opening words startled us at first; but +their two or three initiatory sentences are well selected to begin the +service; the first being, "The Lord is in his holy temple: let all the +earth keep silence before him." + +Some of the alterations are improvements rather than blemishes, for the +constant repetitions in our service are avoided. The Lord's prayer is +less frequently repeated, and the collect for the day, when it has to be +read in the Communion Service, is omitted where it first occurs with us. +A little more freedom of choice, too, is allowed to the minister in +several parts of the service. For example: the Apostle's Creed or the +Nicene Creed may be substituted for each other, as the latter is not +used in the office for the Communion; and instead of reading the Psalter +as divided into days in the daily service, some very good selections +from the Psalms are made, which may be substituted either on the week +days, or on Sundays. The daily Lessons are shortened, and yet all the +portions read by us, out of the Canonical Scriptures, are retained, +which is managed by omitting all the Lessons taken from the Apocrypha. + +The second lessons on Sundays are specially appointed as well as the +first, and not made to depend, as with us, on the day of the month. + +The Commination Service for Ash Wednesday is omitted, only the two +prayers at the end being retained; these are read after the Litany. The +Athanasian Creed is never used. + +Some of the verbal alterations, however, grated harshly on our ears. +They are of course obliged to pray for the President, but instead of the +petition to "grant him in health and wealth long to live," they have +substituted the word "prosperity" for the good old Saxon "wealth," for +fear, apparently, of being misunderstood by it to mean dollars. They +seem too, to have a remarkable aversion to all _them thats_, always +substituting the words _those who_. But the peculiarity which pleased us +most in the American service, was that, instead of the few words of +intercession introduced into our Litany, "especially those for whom our +prayers are desired," there are distinct and very beautiful prayers for +the different circumstances under which the prayers of the congregation +may be asked; as for example in sickness, or affliction, or going to +sea, &c. There is, also, a special form of prayer for the visitation of +prisoners, and one of thanksgiving after the harvest, also offices for +the consecration of churches, and for the institution of ministers to +churches; and some excellent forms of prayers authorised by the church +to be used in families. These seem the chief alterations, excepting that +the Communion Service differs very much from ours; the oblation and +invocation, which I believe are used in the Scotch service, being +introduced into theirs. To the whole is added, in their prayer books, a +most excellent selection of psalms and hymns, in which one is glad to +recognise almost all those which we admire most in our own hymn books. + +But, after this long digression, to return to my journal. After the +service, Mr. Morgan, who had accompanied us to Baltimore with his +daughter, introduced us to Dr. Cox, and we were invited by him to return +on Thursday to a great missionary meeting, which is to be held in +Baltimore; but this, I am afraid, we shall hardly accomplish. In going +and returning from church, we saw a good deal of the city. It is built +upon slopes and terraces, which gives it a most picturesque appearance. +It is indeed generally reputed to be the most beautiful city in the +United States, and from the number of monuments it contains, it has been +called the "Monumental City." The principal structure of this kind is +the Washington monument, situated on a large open area, and upwards of +two hundred feet high. It is entirely constructed of white marble, and +has a colossal statue of Washington on the top. The town is built on the +banks of the Patapsco, about fourteen miles from where its flows into +the Chesapeake. It is navigable here for large ships, and presents one +of those enormous expanses of water, which form a constant subject of +dispute between papa and William, as to whether they are rivers, lakes, +or estuaries. Large as the expanse of water is, the distance from the +sea is at least 200 miles, and the water is quite fresh. + +We returned yesterday with William to Philadelphia, and went to see the +famous water-works, which supply the town with water from the +Schuylkill. The water is thrown up by forcing-pumps to large reservoirs +above; the surrounding grounds are very pretty, and the whole is made +into a fashionable promenade, which commands a fine view of the city. We +afterwards went to the penitentiary, which has a world-wide renown from +its being the model of many which have been built in England and +elsewhere. The solitary system is maintained, the prisoners never being +allowed to see each other, nor could we see them. One poor man had been +in confinement sixteen years out of twenty, to which he had been +condemned. Any one remembering Dickens's account of this prison, must +shudder at the recollection of it, and it was sad to feel oneself in the +midst of a place of such sorrow. When here a few days ago, we had left +our letters of introduction for Mr. Starr. He called to-day, and gave +Papa some interesting information about the revivals. He takes great +interest in the young _gamins_, whom I have described as "pedlering" in +the railway cars, selling newspapers and cheap periodicals; they are a +numerous class, and often sharp little fellows. Mr. Starr takes much +pains in trying to improve their moral and religious characters. But I +have no time at present for more. We returned to New York to-day, and +are passing our last evening with William, who is to sail early +to-morrow, and will be the bearer of this letter. + + + + +LETTER VII. + + + WILLIAM'S DEPARTURE.--GREENWOOD CEMETERY.--JOURNEY TO + WASHINGTON.--ARRANGEMENTS FOR OUR JOURNEY TO THE FAR WEST.--TOPSY. + + + Washington, 16th Oct. 1858. + +I closed my last letter to you on the 12th, and gave it to William to +take to you. On the following day we bade him a sorrowful farewell, made +all the more melancholy by the day being very rainy, which prevented our +seeing him on board. We so very rarely see rain, that when it comes it +is most depressing to our spirits, without any additional cause for +lamentation; but it never lasts beyond a day, and is always succeeded by +a renewal of most brilliant weather. + +To console ourselves next day, although papa said it was an odd source +of consolation, we went to see the Greenwood Cemetery, which is one of +the four remaining sights of New York, the fifth, the Crystal Palace, +being, as I wrote to you, burnt down. The cemetery, however, proved a +great "_sell_," as William would have called it; for it is not to be +compared to the one at Philadelphia; and instead of the beautiful white +marble, surrounding each family plot, we found grey stone, or, still +more commonly, a cast iron rail. Moreover, it had to be reached by an +endless series of steamer-ferries and tramways, which, though they did +not consume much money (under 1_s._ a head), occupied a great deal more +time than the thing was worth. The excursion, however, gave us an +opportunity of seeing the town of Brooklyn, which, though insignificant, +in point of size, as compared with New York, has nearly as many +inhabitants as either Boston or Baltimore, and numbers more than twice +those in the town from which I now write. + +We left New York yesterday, end slept at Philadelphia. When we went +there last week, the first thirty miles of our route was across the Bay +of New York, in a steamer, and, on our return, we came the whole way by +rail; but there is a third line, which we took on this occasion, called +the New Jersey Line, by which we went as far as Burlington by rail, and +thence a distance of nineteen miles in a steamboat down the Delaware. It +was splendid moonlight, and the town of Philadelphia, which stretches +along the banks of the river for nearly five miles, was well lighted, +and the river being crowded with ships, the whole effect was very +pretty. + +It is marvellous how well they manage these huge steam-boats. They come +noiselessly up to the pier without the least shock in touching it, and +it is almost impossible to know when one has left the boat and reached +_terra firma_, so close do they bring the vessel up to the wharf. The +whole process is directed by a man at the wheel, and regulated by sound +of bell. There is a perfect absence of all yells, and cries, and strong +expressions, so common in a French steamer, and not unfrequent in an +English one. + +We arrived too late at Philadelphia to be able to do much that evening, +and this morning, we started early for Baltimore, _en route_ for this +place. We had two very pleasant and communicative fellow-travellers, one +a coal merchant, who resides at Wilmington, the capital of Delaware, the +other a Quaker, a retired merchant from Philadelphia, who gave us a good +deal of information about some of the institutions and charities of that +place. He stood up much for the Girard College, and justified the +enormous cost of the building, by saying it was meant as a monument to +the founder. He made a very good defence of the solitary system, which I +mentioned in my last as existing in the penitentiary, and we were +beginning to think him a very wise "Friend," when he broke out on the +merits of Phonography, which, by his account, seems to have made much +progress in America, and he has asked us to call on Mr. Pitman, their +great authority on that subject, at Cincinnati. The old gentleman's name +was Sharpless, and it deserves to be recorded in this journal, he being +the only American we have heard take anything like a high tone upon the +subject of slavery. He gave us the names of some books upon the subject, +which we, in the innocence of our hearts, have been asking for in +Baltimore and here, forgetting that we are now in those states where it +forms a happy (?) feature in their domestic institutions. + +As we were about to part, the old gentleman addressed us both, and +turning to me, said, "I must tell thee how well it was in thee to come +out to this country with thy husband, and not to let him come alone. A +man should never allow himself to be separated from a good wife, and +thou doest well, both of thee, to keep together." To which complimentary +speech I replied, that I had made it the one stipulation in giving my +consent to papa's crossing the ocean that I should accompany him; and I +confessed that I little thought at the time that I should be taken at +my word, or that our berths would be engaged the following day; but +hoped rather, by such stipulation, to prevent his going altogether. I +added that if all went well with our family at home, as I trusted it +would, I had no reason to do otherwise than be very glad I had come. We +arrived here at last. The Americans are very proud of their country. +But, oh! it would do them all good to see this blessed Washington, which +few of them do, except their Senators and Members of Congress, and +others connected with government. Well may Dickens term it "the city of +magnificent intentions." Such ambitious aspirings to make a great city! +Such streets marked out; twice or three times the width of Portland +Place! and scarcely anything completed, with the exception of some +public buildings, which, to do them justice, are not only on a +magnificent scale, but very beautiful. I shall, however, delay my +account of Washington till we have seen more of it, as we stay here till +Monday afternoon, when we return to Baltimore so as to allow us to make +a start for the West on Tuesday. + +We are to travel quite _en prince_, over the Ohio and Baltimore +railroad, one of the most wonderful of all American railways. At New +York we had introductions given us to request the officials of this +line to allow us to travel on the engine, or on the cowcatcher if we +preferred it! either of which would undoubtedly have given us a fair +opportunity of viewing the scenery; but papa saw to-day, at Baltimore, +the managing director, who has arranged for the principal engineer to go +with us, and he is to take us in the director's car, which we are to +have to ourselves, and this gentleman, Mr. Tyson, is to let us stop +whenever we have a fancy to do so. We are to go fast or slow as we may +prefer. We are to start on Tuesday morning, at the tail of the express +train, and we have only to give the signal when our car will be +detached. There are only two or three trains daily for passengers; but +there are goods' and extra trains for various purposes, which are +constantly running at different speeds on the road. It is by reattaching +ourselves to any of these, that we can, when we like, effect all this, +and have an opportunity of seeing, in the most leisurely manner, and +without any detriment to the other passengers, the various parts of the +road that may be worth exploring. The line is very beautiful, and I hope +Mr. Tyson will be prepared for my frequently stopping him when I see +trees, with their splendid red leaves that I may wish particularly to +gather. We are to take our food in this carriage, if necessary, and +have beds made up in it, so as to make us quite independent of inns, and +we may pass as many days as we like upon the road. We are to do this +because, though some of the hotels are good, we may not find them at the +exact places where we wish to stop. Papa has no connection with this +road, and it must be American appreciation of his virtues which has led +the officials to deal with us in this luxurious way. + +On Tuesday the 19th inst., therefore, we make our real start for the +West, and shall probably the first night reach Harper's Ferry, a place +which President Jefferson, in his "Notes on Virginia," which you will +find in papa's library, said, was "one of the most stupendous scenes in +nature, and well worth a voyage across the Atlantic to witness;" and +this was written when these voyages were not so easily accomplished as +they are now. But this railway has opened up scenery which was not known +to Jefferson, and is said far to surpass, in beauty, even this +celebrated Harper's Ferry; but of this we shall soon be able to judge +for ourselves. + +_October 18th._--This must be posted to-day before we lionise this +place, so I shall reserve all I have to say about Washington till my +next, and shall fill up this page with a description of a real live +"Topsy" slave, with whom we have made acquaintance here. She is +fourteen, the property of an old Miss D. We noticed her yesterday +standing about in the passage, and asked her if she belonged to the +hotel, and she said no, that she belonged to Miss D. We said, quite +seriously, as we now always do to blacks and whites of the lower orders, +"Where were you raised?" The creature answered us quietly, "In +Virginny." She is a full, well grown girl, with a large bushy crop of +wool on her head; a pleasant, large, round intelligent face, that is +almost pretty. The young niggers have very little of the real negro cast +of countenance, and the little boys and girls about the streets are +really pretty, and almost loveable looking; while the elders, especially +the females, are hideous to behold, and are only to be tolerated, in +point of looks, when they wear coloured turbans. When I see one adorned +in a bonnet at the back of her head, with a profusion, inside, of the +brightest artificial flowers, a bright vulgar shawl and dress, and an +enormous hoop, with very narrow petticoats, I always wish to rush home, +light a large bonfire, and throw into the flames every article of +ornamental dress that I possess. + +But to return to dear Topsy. We asked her if she were a slave, feeling +very backward to put so trying a question to her; but she answered with +the utmost simplicity, that she was, just as if we had asked her if she +were from France or Germany. In reply to our questions, she said that +her father and mother were slaves; that she has several younger brothers +and sisters; that Miss D. is very rich. "'Spect she has above a hundred +slaves;" and that she is very kind to them all. "Can you read?" "No; +Miss D. has often tried to teach me, but I never could learn. 'Spect I +am too large to learn now." We lectured her about this, and gave her Sir +Edward Parry's favourite advice, to "try again." I then asked her if she +went to church. "No, never." "Does Miss D.?" "Mighty seldom." "Do you +know who made you?" "Yes, God." "Do you ever pray?" "No, never; used to, +long ago; but," with a most sanctimonious drawl, "feel such a burden +like, when I try to kneel down, that I can't." This was such a +gratuitous imitation of what she must have heard the _goody_[6] niggers +say, that I felt sorely disposed to give her young black ears a sound +boxing, for supposing such a piece of acting could impose upon us. +However, leaving the dark ears alone, I urged the duty of prayer upon +her, as strongly and simply as I could, and made her promise to kneel +down every night and morning and pray. She had heard of Christ, and +repeated some text (again a quotation, no doubt, from the _goody_ +niggers) about his death; but she did not know, on further examination, +who He is, nor what death He died. She said Miss D. read to them all, +every Sunday; but probably not in a very instructive manner. She said +her name was Almira. I gave her Miss Marsh's "Light for the Line," which +happened to be the only book I had by me which was at all suitable, and +told her to get it read to her, and that I was sorry I had nothing else +to give her; but I shall try this morning to get her an alphabet, in +order to encourage her to make another attempt to learn to read. At +parting last night, I spoke as solemnly as I could to her, and told her +we should probably never meet again in this world, but that we should be +sure to meet hereafter, at the judgment seat of God, and I entreated her +to remember the advice I had given her. + +As we do not know Miss D., who is a very deaf old lady, staying here, +like ourselves, for a day or two, our conferences with young Topsy have +been necessarily very short, and constantly interrupted by Miss D.'s +coming past us, and wanting her; but we should like very much to buy +Almira, and bring her home to make a nursery maid of her, and teach her +all she ought to know, and "'spect" after all she is not "too large" to +learn, poor young slave! It was pleasant, in our first colloquy of the +kind, to talk to such an innocent specimen of a slave. I mean innocent, +as respects her ignorance of the horrors of slavery, of which she +evidently had not even the faintest idea. I asked her what she did for +Miss D.? "Dresses her, does her room, and _fixes her up_ altogether." +The real, original Topsy is no doubt a most correctly drawn character, +judging by this specimen. And now adieu; you shall have a further +chapter on Washington next time. + +FOOTNOTE: + +[6] I have tried, in vain, to alter this word, which is one coined at +home, and used by the family, but cannot find a substitute for it. Lest, +however, it be misunderstood, I must explain that it is applied in +reference to the truly good and pious among our friends; as the word +"saints," ought to be, had not that term been unhappily associated with +the ridiculous, and a false pretension to religion. + + + + +LETTER VIII. + + + WASHINGTON.--BAPTIST CLASS-MEETING.--PUBLIC BUILDINGS.--VENUS BY + DAYLIGHT.--BALTIMORE AND OHIO RAILWAY.--WHEELING.--ARRIVAL AT + COLUMBUS. + + + Washington, 18th Oct. 1858. + +I despatched my last to you the day before yesterday, and now must give +you an account of our employments yesterday (Sunday, 17th instant). The +morning was very hot, and very lovely, with a clear blue sky, and I +wished that impertinent young lady, Emily, could see what sort of +weather we have here, and how her good wishes for us are accomplished, +beyond anything she can suppose; for we can barely support the heat in +the middle of the day. + +The weather being so lovely, we set off to a church in Georgetown, a +suburb of Washington, where many of the foreign ministers live, and a +very pretty suburb it is; but when we got there, papa's head began to +ache so much, that we thought it best to return to a church nearer the +hotel, so that if he became worse, he might leave the church, and walk +home. We were able, however, to sit out the service, and heard a very +dull sermon from a young missionary, who was to sail, two days +afterwards, with his wife, from Baltimore, for Africa; his sermon was +greatly taken from Livingstone's book, and he spoke more strongly +against slavery than we should have looked for in a slave state. After +the sermon, papa and I went to him, and we asked him a little about +where he was going, &c. &c. He scarcely seemed to know, acknowledged he +was but little acquainted with the work he had before him, and, finally, +when papa put a piece of gold into his hand, he looked at it, and asked +whether it was for himself or the Mission. We answered with some degree +of inward surprise, that it was for any useful object connected with it, +and we took leave of him, wishing him God-speed, but lamenting that a +more efficient man was not going out. + +Papa became much more head-achy during the day. Mr. Erskine called to +see if we wanted anything, and strongly advised my going to a negro +chapel in the evening, and hearing one of the blacks preach. They are +mostly Methodists, that is Wesleyans, or Baptists. He said I should hear +them singing as I passed the doors, and could go in. Poor papa, by this +time, was fit for nothing except to remain quiet, so Thrower and I set +out in the evening, and found, not without some difficulty, an upper +room, brilliantly lighted, over a grocer's warehouse. We went up two +pairs of stairs, and I did so in fear and trembling, remembering what +the odour is when a large dining-room is filled with black waiters: a +sort of sickly, sour smell pervades the room, that makes one hate the +thought, either of dinner, or of the poor niggers themselves. It seems +it is inherent in their skin; to my surprise and satisfaction, however, +we found nothing of the kind in this room, the windows of which had been +well opened beforehand. It was a large, whitewashed apartment, half +filled with blacks. + +We were the only whites present; there were benches across the room, +leaving a passage up the middle, the men and women occupying different +sides. A pulpit was at the further end of the room, and in front of it +stood a black preaching. He was in the middle of his sermon when we came +in, so we did not hear the text, and sat down quietly at some distance +from him, so as to be able to get out and go home to poor papa whenever +we wished; a nigger came forward, and invited us to go further up the +room, which we declined. The sermon went on for some time; it described +the happiness felt by God's true children: and how they would cling to +each other in persecution. The preacher encouraged them all in the path +of holiness, and explained the Gospel means of salvation with great +clearness, and really with admirably chosen words; there was a little +action but not too much; and there were no vulgarities. The discourse +was at least equal to the sermons of many of our dissenting ministers, +and appeared to come from the lips of an educated gentleman, although +with a black skin. He finished, and an old negro rose, and gave out the +text:--"And seeing the multitudes, He went up into a mountain," &c. His +voice at first was faint, and I could not hear what were the various +jokes he cut which produced loud laughter, so we advanced a little. He +afterwards became more serious. His address was quite distinct from his +text, being an earnest and very well delivered exhortation to the +converted to grow in grace; at the end of every period he repeated his +text as a _refrain_. + +At first, I observed among the dark ladies a few suppressed murmurs of +approbation, but as his discourse proceeded, these were turned into +groans; and when he quoted a text, or said anything more than usually +impressive, there was a regular rocking and swaying of the figure among +them, while one or two repeated aloud the last words of his text. While +he was preaching, a tall thin young woman, in deep mourning, came in, +and room was made for her to sit down next to a very fat negress, whom I +had observed at our own church in the morning. The latter passed her arm +round the shoulder of this young woman, as they sat together, and I +observed that at various solemn passages of the old man's address, they +began to rock their bodies, gently at first, but afterwards more and +more violently, till at last they got into a way of rocking themselves +quite forward off their seat, and then on it again, the fat woman +cuddling up the thin one more and more closely to her. There seemed a +sort of mesmeric influence between the two, occasioning in both similar +twistings and contortions of the body, shakings of the head, lookings +upward, lookings downward, and louder words of exclamation and +approbation. This was not continuous in its violence, though there was +generally _some_ movement between them; but the violence of it came on +in fits, and was the effect of the old man's words. It was very curious +that whenever he repeated the text (a far from exciting one, I thought), +the agitation became most violent. The other women continued to murmur +applause, and one woman in advance of the others (a very frightful one) +looked upwards, and frequently smiled a heavenly (?) smile. I sat rather +behind most of them, and on the side where the men were, so that unless +when the women turned round, I could scarcely see their faces. After a +time the old man commented upon the succeeding verses of the Chapter as +far as the words, "Blessed are the poor in spirit," &c., and here he +ceased, almost abruptly; a hymn was immediately given out by the first +preacher, and was sung most loudly and vigorously by most of the +congregation. The men's voices were very loud, but they all sang true, +and with great spirit and energy. There were no musical instruments, and +they sat while singing. The hymns seemed very stirring, but I am sorry I +cannot give you the words of any of them, as there were no books, and +they sung at first from memory, though in some of the after hymns the +preacher gave them out by two lines at a time. + +This being, as I was afterwards told, a Baptist class-meeting, the first +man invited any brother or sister to tell the others "how the Lord had +dealt with him," or "what He had done for his soul." (I quote his +words.) Whereupon a tall well-dressed young negro rose from his seat, +and standing up, told us that he had been a great sinner, and that he +had, through many difficulties, learnt to serve God. He spoke of +persecutions from within in the struggles of a sinful nature and of +great and bitter ones from without. He did not describe what these had +been: but told us that the victory had been his. His language, and +choice of expressions, were always good, though at times there was a +little of the peculiar negro pronunciation. At all descriptions of the +contest having been in his favour, the women swayed their bodies; and +when he, and others after him, asserted to those around that what he had +felt could not have been from Satan, and therefore must have been from +God, there was great agitation, especially in my two friends, and grins +and murmurs from the others. The men listened quietly, sometimes +grinning with delight, and sometimes leaning their heads forward on +their hands, as if meditating. A few of the men who sat at the upper end +of the room leant their heads against the wall, and _might_ have been +asleep. + +After this young man's "experience" was ended, came another singing of +hymns, and then another invitation for more "experiences;" when a tall, +fat, important-looking man rose: his figure reminded one of a fat, burly +London butler; and his account of himself was somewhat extravagant. +"Heart was hard as stone; a great sinner; was standing in an orchard; +couldn't love God or pray; seemed as if a great light came from the sky; +got behind a tree; the light came nearer; seemed as if drawing me," &c. +&c.; ending in the happy circumstance of _his_ complete conversion; and +he sat down, his discourse producing the same agitating effects, and of +an increasing kind on all the women, specially on my fat and thin +friends. Then came another hymn, and another invitation; which was +followed by the preacher's going up to a young negress and speaking a +few words to her in a whisper; whereupon he told us, that a young +person, who had been wonderfully "dealt with by the Lord," was about to +give an account of herself. The young girl, of about twenty, black, but +pleasing-looking, advanced, and standing straight up before the +preacher, repeated to him her experience almost as if it were a lesson +she had learnt by heart. There was a cadence, or sort of chant, in her +delivery; but with the most perfect quietness of manner. She had been, +she said, a great sinner; and she then gave an account of herself at +much greater length than the others. In speaking of the difficulties +that had met her in her spiritual path, there was a very musical and +touching mournfulness in her voice that made her an object of great +interest. The men, at least, seemed to think so; for they all became +most lively, grinned gloriously, their splendid white teeth contrasting +with their dark skins; my two friends became nearly frantic, the one in +mourning especially, when shaken by the agitation of her fat friend, +writhed her body in all directions. They both began shouting, "Glory! +Glory!" with a loud voice; and finally the younger one fell forward on +her face, in a sort of trance. After a time she got back upon her seat; +but I never witnessed such a state of excitement, except once, years +ago, when I saw a young woman in an epileptic fit. All this was +evidently in a sort of small camp-meeting style. August is the month for +these meetings when out of doors; but this was a minor one. The woman in +front grinned, and even laughed outright, having great hollows or +dimples in her cheeks. The young girl was really interesting, so +perfectly calm and so modest; never looking to the right or left. She +said she felt ashamed to appear before them all, but that she should not +be ashamed to appear before God: and whenever interrupted, she resumed +the thread of her narrative with the utmost composure. She ended after a +time, but remained standing before the preacher, who was seated, and +who proceeded to examine her as to whether she thought she was _really_ +converted to God. Her answers were faint, as if from fatigue and +exhaustion, her narrative having been a very long one; but still there +was a quiet, unfaltering decision in her replies, which were given with +much humility of manner. I could not help sometimes doubting whether the +whole thing was really unprepared and extemporaneous, or whether she +might not have learnt her lesson and repeated it by rote, or whether, in +short, it might not have been a piece of acting. This impression lasted +only for a moment, for there was such an artless and modest manner in +the young girl, that I could not fail on the whole to give her the +fullest credit for sincerity, and was angry only with her black male +friends for requiring from her such a display of herself and her +feelings in a public congregation; which made me feel much for the young +girl throughout. After various warnings that she would meet with +difficulties, that she was joining a "plain set of old Baptist saints," +&c., she said she wished and desired to do so. The preacher then asked, +almost in the words of the Liturgy, "Wilt thou be baptized?" and she +answered, "I will." Whereupon he asked the congregation to show by their +hands if they approved of her being baptized; and there being a +sufficient show of hands, she was told she was duly elected as a +candidate for baptism; when another hymn being struck up in the same +vociferous style as before, we rose and left the assembly, not liking to +be longer absent from papa. We came out upon the lovely, calm, moonlight +night, so sweet, so exquisitely heavenly; and I felt how differently +nature looked without, to those distressing sights of bodily agitation +and contortion we had witnessed within. I thought of the poor young +negro girl's quiet testimony, and gentle voice and manner, and wondered +if _she_, too, would learn in time to become uproarious, and shout, +"Glory! Glory!" The probability is, that she will become like her +neighbours; for I can tell you later other stories about the necessity +these poor nigger women seem to be under to shout "Glory!" I was glad to +have seen this specimen of the camp-meeting style. + +Although I have felt it scarcely possible to describe the scene without +a certain mixture of the ludicrous, no feeling of irreverence crossed my +mind at the time. On the contrary, my sympathies were greatly drawn out +towards these our poor fellow-creatures; and there was something most +instructive in the sight of them there assembled to enjoy those highest +blessings--blessings of which no man could rob them. Religion seemed to +be to them not a mere sentiment or feeling, but a real tangible +possession; and one could read, in their appreciation of it, a lesson to +one's own heart of its power to lift man above all earthly sorrow, +privation, and degradation into an upper world, as it were, even here +below, of "joy and peace in believing." + +To-day, after posting our letters for England, papa went to General +Cass, Secretary of State for the United States, and delivered his letter +of introduction from Mr. Dallas, the American Minister in London. He had +a long and interesting interview with him. + +We went afterwards to the Capitol, and all over it, under the guidance +of our coachman, a very intelligent and civil Irishman. We were quite +taken by surprise at what we saw; for not only is the building itself, +which is of white marble, a very fine one, but the internal fittings, or +"fixings," as they perpetually call them here, show a degree of taste +for which before leaving England we had not given the Americans credit. +Two wings are now being added to the original building, and are nearly +completed; and a new and higher dome than the original one is being +built over the centre. The wings are destined to be occupied, one by the +Senate, and the other by the House of Representatives: in fact, the +House of Representatives already make use of their wing; but the Senate +will still hold another session in the old Senate House, as the Senators +have not yet quite decided upon their "fixings." The new chamber is, +however, sufficiently advanced to enable us to form a judgment of what +it will be; and although, perhaps, inferior in beauty to that of the +House of Representatives, it is in very good taste: but the room where +the Representatives meet is really most beautiful. The seats are ranged +in semi-circles, with desks before each, in much the same manner as in +Paris; which gives a more dignified appearance than the arrangement of +the seats in our House of Commons. The floors throughout a great part of +the building are in very good tesselated work, made by Minton, in +England; as the tiles made in this country do not preserve their colour +like the English ones. The ceilings of some of the passages are +beautifully decorated; and one of the committee rooms, appropriated to +agricultural matters, is remarkably well painted in fresco; all the +subjects have allusion to agricultural pursuits. In the centre of the +building, round the circular part, under the dome, are some very +indifferent pictures, representing subjects connected with the history +of America, beginning with the landing of Columbus. Two out of the eight +represented incidents in the war of independence; one being the +surrender of Lord Cornwallis, who seemed very sorry for himself. The +view from the Capitol is fine; the gardens round it are kept in good +order, and there being a great deal of maple in the woods, the redness +of the leaf gave a brilliant effect to the scene. + +From the Capitol we went to the Patent Office, in which are contained an +endless variety of models. It is immediately opposite the Post Office, +and both are splendid buildings of white marble. The Post Office is +still unfinished, but it will be of great size. The Patent-Office is an +enormous square building. The four sides, which are uniform, have large +flights of stairs on the outside, leading to porticos of Corinthian +pillars. We entered the building, and went into a large apartment, where +we were lost in contemplation of the numerous models, which we admired +exceedingly, though the shortness of the time we had to devote to them +prevented our examining them as minutely as they seemed to deserve. +Papa, indeed, was disposed to be off when we had gone through this room, +as we had still much to do, and he professed his belief that we must +have seen the whole. I, having my wits more about me, could not conceive +how this could well be the case, seeing we had only looked at one out of +four sides. There is no one in these places to show them to strangers, +so we asked a respectable-looking person if there were any more rooms, +when he replied, "Oh, yes! you have only been looking at the _rejected_ +models." Whereupon we entered on the second side of the square; but, to +confess the truth, the rejected and accepted ones seemed to us much of a +piece, and we were not sorry, on arriving at the third side, to find it +shut up and apparently empty, so we beat a retreat. We were told at +Baltimore that the collection was a very fine one, and doubtless it may +be very interesting to a person competent to judge of the details; but +the models, besides being shut up in glass-cases, and consequently very +inaccessible, were generally on too small a scale to be comprehended by +ordinary observers, and in this respect, the collection was of much less +interest to us than the exhibition we had lately seen in the unfortunate +Crystal Palace at New York, where the models exhibited were of the full +size of the machines meant to be used, and consequently almost +intelligible to an unprofessional person. Besides what may be strictly +considered models, there were in the rooms some objects more suited to +an ordinary museum. Such were various autographs, and many relics of +Washington; and a case containing locks of the hair of all the +presidents, from the time of Washington downwards. + +When mentioning our visit to General Cass, I omitted to state the +magnificence of the Treasury, which adjoins his official residence; an +enormous structure, also of white marble. We counted thirty pillars in +front, of the Ionic order, besides three more recently added on a wing, +these three pillars of great height being cut out of single blocks of +marble. We passed this building again in going from the Patent-Office to +Lord Napier's, where we had an appointment with Mr. Erskine. + +The noble mansion of England's representative is a cube of brick-work +painted dark-brown, equal in size, and very much resembling in +appearance, our own D. P. H.; but standing in a melancholy street, +without the appendages of green-house, conservatory, and gate, as in +that choice London mansion. The Honourable Secretary's apartment was +downstairs in the area, and the convenience of its proximity to the +kitchen, with the thermometer at 85° in the shade, as it was to-day, was +doubtless duly appreciated by him, he having just arrived from Turin. We +found him waiting for us, and he accompanied us to the President's +residence, called the White House. It is a handsome but unpretending +building, not like its neighbours, of marble, but painted to look like +stone; the public reception-rooms are alone shown, but a good-natured +servant let us see the private rooms, and took us out on a sort of +terrace behind, where we had a lovely view of the Potomac. The house is +situated in a large garden, opposite to which, on the other side of the +road, is a handsome, and well-kept square. The house has no pretensions +about it, but would be considered a handsome country house in England; +and the inside is quite in keeping, and well furnished. The furniture is +always renewed when a new President takes possession; and as this is the +case every four years, it cannot well become shabby. + +In a line directly opposite the back of the house, and closing up the +view at the end of the gardens, stands the monument which is being +erected to Washington. This, when finished, is to be a circular +colonnaded building, 250 feet in diameter, and 100 feet high, from which +is to spring an obelisk 70 feet wide at the base, and 500 feet high, so +that, when completed, the whole will be as high as if our monument in +London were placed on the top of St. Paul's. At present nothing but its +ugly shaft is built, which has anything but a picturesque appearance, +and it is apparently likely to remain in this condition, as it is not +allowed to be touched by any but native republican hands, here a rather +scarce commodity. It is being built of white stone, one of the many +kinds found in this country. By the by, we omitted to state, in +describing the Capitol, that the balustrades of the staircases, and a +good deal of ornamental work about the building, are of marble, from a +quarry lately discovered in Tennessee, of a beautiful darkish lilac +ground, richly grained with a shade of its own colour; it is very +valuable, costing seven dollars per cubic foot. + +From the President's house we went to the Observatory, which, though +unpretending in its external appearance, is said to be the finest in the +world next to the one at St. Petersburgh; so at least says the +Washington Guide Book, for I like to give our authority for what we +ourselves should not have supposed to be the case. Mr. Erskine +introduced himself, and then us, to Lieutenant Maury, who is at the +head of it, and is well known as a writer on meteorological subjects. He +is a most agreeable man, and we talked much about the comet, meteoric +stones, &c.; we asked him what he thought of Professor Silliman's notion +about the comet's tail being an electric phenomenon, but he seemed to +think little was known on the subject. He said this comet had never been +seen before, and might never return again, as its path seemed parabolic, +and not elliptical; but he said that what was peculiarly remarkable +about it was the extreme agitation observed in the tail, and even in the +nucleus, the motion appearing to be vibratory. With regard to meteoric +stones, he said the one we saw at New Haven, though of such a prodigious +size, being 200 lbs. heavier than the one in the British Museum, was a +fragment only of a larger stone. We asked permission to go to the top of +the observatory, and at a hint from papa, I expressed the great desire I +had to see Venus by daylight, through the great telescope; whereupon, he +sent for Professor B----, and asked him to take us up to the +observatory, and to direct the great telescope to Venus. We mounted +accordingly, and I was somewhat alarmed when the whole room in which we +were placed, began to revolve upon its axis. + +Setting the telescope takes some minutes, and the Professor ejected us +from the room at the top of the building on to a balcony, from which we +had a most lovely view of the neighbouring country. By means of a very +good small telescope placed on a swivel, we could see most distinctly +the Military Retreat (the Chelsea of America), beautifully situated upon +a high hill about three miles off. We saw also through this telescope +the Smithsonian Institute, which we were glad to be able to study in +this way in detail, as we found we should not have time to go to it. It +is a very large building of the architecture of the twelfth century, and +the only attempt at Mediæval architecture which we have seen in the +United States. + +The view of the Potomac and of the hill and buildings of George Town was +very extensive and remarkable; but before we had feasted our eyes +sufficiently on it, we were summoned to see one of the most lovely +sights I ever witnessed. Though it was mid-day, and the sun was shining +most brilliantly, we saw the exquisitely sharp crescent of Venus in the +pale sky, and about half the apparent size of the moon. The object-glass +of the instrument was divided into squares, and she passed rapidly +across the field of the telescope, sailing, as it were, in ether; by the +slightest motion of a tangent-screw of great length, we were able to +bring her back as often as we liked, to the centre of the field. This +mechanical process might, however, have been rendered unnecessary, had +the machinery attached to the instrument been wound up; for when this is +the case, if the telescope is directed to any star or point in the +heavens, it continues to point to it for the whole twenty-four hours in +succession, the machine revolving round in the plane to which it is set. +The instrument is a very powerful one, and, like the smaller one we +looked through before, was made by Fraunhofer, a famous optician at +Munich. There are some other very wonderful instruments which we had not +time to see, as we had to make desperate haste to get some dinner, and +be off by the late train to Baltimore. But before I take leave of this +subject, I must return for a minute or two to that most perfectly lovely +creature Venus. She was a true crescent; we could imagine we saw the +jagged edge of the inner side of the crescent, but the transition from +the planet to the delicate sky was so gradual, that as far as this inner +edge was concerned, this was probably only imagination. Her colouring +on this jagged side was of the most transparent silvery hue. The outer +edge was very sharply defined against the sky, and her colour shaded off +on this side to a pale golden yellow with a red or pink tint in it; this +being the side she was presenting to the sun. No words can express her +beauty. She is the planet that I told you lately looked so very large. + +On our way to the station, and in our drives about the town, we had an +opportunity of seeing the City of Washington. The town was originally +laid out by Washington himself, and divided off into streets, or rather +wide avenues, which are crossed by other streets of great breadth; but +though the streets are named, in many of them no houses are yet built, +and those that are have a mean appearance, owing to their being unsuited +in height to the great width of the streets, which are in many cases, I +should think, three times the width of Portland Place, and long in +proportion. Notwithstanding, therefore, the beauty of the public +buildings, the town greatly disappointed us. + +On our arrival at Baltimore this evening, Mr. Garrett, the principal +director of the Baltimore and Ohio Railway, called upon us and brought +with him Mr. Henry Tyson, the chief engineer, or as he is called, the +master of machinery of the road, whom he was kind enough to appoint to +go with us as far as Wheeling, the western terminus of the line. + +This is the most remarkable railway in America for the greatness of the +undertaking and the difficulties encountered in passing the Alleghanies, +which the projectors of the road could only do by crossing the range at +a height of 2700 feet, a project that most people looked upon as +visionary. We are to start to-morrow morning at eight o'clock. + +_Wheeling, Oct. 21st._--We have accomplished the great feat of passing +the Alleghanies, and Mr. Tyson has proved a Cicerone of unequalled +excellence, from his great attention to us, added to his knowledge of +the country, and his talents, which are of no ordinary kind. He is the +engineer who has invented, or at least constructed on a new plan, the +locomotives which are used upon this road: but besides being a very +clever engineer, he is remarkably well read in general literature, and +has a wonderful memory for poetry and a great knowledge of botany. + +[Illustration: Plan of Directors' car] + +Though Mr. Garrett talked of the directors' car, we presumed it was only +a common carriage such as we had been accustomed to, but appropriated to +their use; instead of this we found a beautiful car, forty feet long by +eight wide, of which the accompanying diagram shows a plan drawn to +scale. Outside: painted maroon, highly varnished with Canada balsam: the +panels picked out with dark blue. Inside: painted pure white, also +varnished. Ceiling the same, divided into small narrow panels, with +excellent ventilators at each end. Round the car there were twenty-two +windows, not shown in the plan, and three brilliant lamps in the +sitting-room and hall, and one in the bed-room; these were lighted when +passing through the tunnels. There were three hooks in the wall serving +for hat pegs, and at the same time to support two flags for signals. A +large map of the mountain pass from Cumberland to Wheeling hung over the +sofa opposite the table. The table was covered with green baize +stretched tightly over it. On the table were placed a large +blotting-book, ink, and pens, three or four daily newspapers which were +changed each day, the yearly report of the railway, a peculiar +time-table book, containing rules for the guidance of the station men, +times of freight and passenger trains meeting and passing each other, +&c. Papa has these. The sofas are covered with a pretty green Brussels +carpet (small pattern) quilted like a mattress with green buttons, +chairs covered with corded wollen stuff, not a speck or spot of ink or +smut on anything. A neat carpet, not a speck or spot on it, a sheet of +tin under and all round the stove. Pantry cupboard containing knives and +forks, spoons, and mugs. Bed-room berths much higher and wider than in a +ship. Red coloured cotton quilts, with a shawl pattern, two pillows to +each bed, pillowcases of brilliant whiteness, sofa bed larger and longer +than a German bed. White Venetian blinds occupied the places usually +filled by the door panels and window shutters. Green Brussels carpet +like the cover of the sofa; three chairs to match. The windows in the +sitting-room had grey holland curtains running on wires with very neat +little narrow strips of leather, and a black button to fasten them, and +a button and well made button-hole below to keep them from blowing about +when the window is open. Looking-glass in neat gilt frame, hung over a +semicircular console in the bed-room, another near the washhandstand, +where a towel also hangs. Two drawers for clothes, &c. under berths. +Table-cloth for meals, light drab varnished cloth, imitating leather, +very clean and pretty, china plates, and two metal plates in case of +breakages. Luncheon consisted of excellent cold corned beef, tongue, +bread and butter, Bass's ale, beer, whiskey, champagne, all Mr. Tyson's. +We supplied cold fowls, bread, and claret. The door at the end opens on +a sort of platform or balcony, surrounded by a strong high iron railing, +with the rails wide enough apart to admit a man to climb up between them +into the car, which the workmen always do to speak to Mr. Tyson. Usual +step entrance at the other end. The platform can hold three arm chairs +easily, and we three sat there yesterday evening, talking and admiring +the view. The door was always open and we were in and out constantly. +Thrower and Gaspar, a capital German man-servant, sat in the hall. +Carpet swept by Gaspar after dinner to remove crumbs. I wear neither +bonnet nor shawl, but sit at the table and work, make mems., dry red +leaves, and learn their names from Mr. Tyson. Papa is always moving +about, and calling me out constantly to admire the view from the +balcony. Yesterday on the lower ground it was much too hot in the +middle of the day to be there, and we were glad to be within the car, +and to shade the glare of the sun by means of our pretty grey curtains, +though it was cooler on the mountain. + +But I must begin to describe our road more methodically. As we wished to +get over the early part of it as expeditiously as possible, we started +by the mail train at 8.30. It will be impossible to describe at length +all the pretty places we passed, respecting each of which Mr. Tyson had +always something to say. Soon after leaving the Washington junction, we +came to a sweet spot called Ellicott's Mills, where he had spent his +boyhood, and where every rock was familiar to him. The family of +Ellicotts, who had resided there from the settlement of the country, +were his mother's relations, and by his father's side he was descended +from Lord Brooke, who was likewise one of the original settlers, the +Warwick branch of the family having remained in England. + +We first came in sight of the Blue Ridge at about forty miles from +Baltimore. During the greater part of this distance we had been +following up the Patapaco river; but soon after this, at the Point of +Rocks, we came upon the Potomac. Here the Baltimore and Ohio canal, a +work of prodigious magnitude, and the railway run side by side between +the river and very high cliffs, though the space apparently could afford +room only for one of them. We reached Harper's Ferry a little after +twelve, and the view is certainly splendid. Mr. Tyson had made +arrangements to give the passengers a little extra time for dinner, that +he might take us to see the view from the heights above without +materially detaining the train; but the sun was so powerful that we were +glad to limit our walk in order to see a little in detail the bridge +over which we had just passed in the railway cars. It is a very +wonderful work, but not so remarkable for its length as for its peculiar +structure, the two ends of it being curved in opposite directions, +assuming the form of the letter S. It passes not only over the river but +over the canal, and before it reaches the western bank of the river it +makes a fork, one road going straight on, and the other, which we went +upon, forming the second bend of the S. + +The curves in the railway are very sharp, and a speed of thirty-five +miles an hour is kept up in going round those which have a radius of 600 +feet. This, and repeatedly recurring ascents of a very steep grade, +require engines which unite great power with precision in the +movements, and these are admirably combined in Mr. Tyson's engines; +which, moreover, have the advantage of entirely consuming their own +smoke, and we had neither sparks nor cinders to contend with. The common +rate of travelling, where the road is level, is forty miles an hour, and +at this rate each engine will take eighteen cars with 2600 passengers. + +The difficulties they have to contend with on this road are greatly +increased by the snow drifts in winter. Mr. Tyson told us that on one +occasion the snow had accumulated in one night, by drifts, to fourteen +feet in the cuts, and it required ten freight engines of 200-horse power +each, or 2000-horse power altogether, to clear it away. Three hundred +men were employed, and the wind being bitterly cold, hardly any escaped +being frost-bitten. One of the tenders was completely crushed up by the +force applied; and in the middle of the night, with the snow still +driving, and in a piercing wind, they had to clear away the wreck: +nineteen engines, called snow ploughs, are kept solely to clear away the +snow. + +At five o'clock we reached Cumberland, where we slept. After dinner we +walked out in the most lovely night possible to see the town, and the +moon being nearly full, we saw the valley as distinctly almost as by +daylight. There is a great gap here in the mountain, which forms a +prominent feature in the landscape, and a church on the summit of a high +hill rendered the picture almost perfect. We here saw the comet for the +last time. + +Next morning, the 20th October, we started early, in order to be able to +take the mountain pass more leisurely, attached ourselves at 6.15 to the +express train, and reached Piedmont at 7.30. During this part of our +journey we continued to follow up the Potomac, but here we left it to +follow up the Savage river, and for seventeen miles continued to ascend +to Altamont, where we attained the summit level of 2700 feet above the +sea. We cast ourselves off from the express at Piedmont, and afterwards +tacked ourselves on to a train which left Piedmont at eight o'clock, and +got to Altamont at 9.45; these seventeen miles occupied an hour and +three quarters, the grade for eleven miles out of the seventeen being +116 feet per mile. + +It is almost impossible to describe the beauty of the scenery here. The +road goes in a zig-zag the whole way. We passed several substantial +viaducts across the Savage river, often at a great height above the +valley, and on many occasions, when the road made one of its rapid +turns, a vista of many miles up the gorges was obtained. + +Of course the greatest skill is required in driving the engine up what +is called the "Mountain Division." We mounted on the locomotive, to have +a more perfect view of the ascent. This locomotive is very different to +an English one, as the place where the driver sits is enclosed on three +sides with glass, so as to shelter him and those with him from the +weather. Mr. Tyson thought it necessary to drive a small part of the way +himself; but after that, he resigned his position, as will be seen by +the following certificate, to one equally qualified for an emergency, +though hitherto his peculiar talent in that line had not been developed. + + + "Baltimore and Ohio Railway, Machinery Department. + "Baltimore, Oct. 21st, 1858. + + "This is to certify that Mr. A. T. has occupied the position of + 'Locomotive Engineer,' on the _Mountain Division_ (3rd) of the + Baltimore and Ohio Railroad. + + "The term of his occupation has been characterised by a close + attention to his duties, and consequent freedom from accidents. + + (Signed) "HENRY TYSON, + "Master of Machinery, + "Baltimore and Ohio R. R. Co." + + +Papa, in fact, drove the engine a considerable way up the steepest part +of the ascent, and as the driver must command an uninterrupted view of +the road before him, he had a capital opportunity of seeing the country. +Thrower and I sat on a seat behind him; but he alone had the full view, +as the chimney of the engine rather obstructed ours in front, though on +each side we saw perfectly. The whistle of the engine, when so close to +our ears, was splendid, or perhaps you would have said, terrific. + +From Altamont to Cranberry Summit, where the descent begins, there is a +comparatively level country, called the Glades, which are beautiful +natural meadows undulating and well cultivated, with high ranges of +mountains, generally at no great distance from the road, but varying a +good deal in this respect, so as sometimes to leave a considerable plain +between it and the range. From these glades numerous valleys diverge, +and, in looking down these, splendid vistas are obtained. The verdure +even now is very bright, and the streams, which are everywhere to be +seen, are remarkably clear and pure; so that although the interest of +the road was less absorbing than when we were ascending the mountains, +it was still very great. From Cranberry Summit the distant views to the +westward were quite magnificent. + +We now entered on what is called the "Cheat River Region," and the +descent to Grafton (a distance of thirty miles) is even more beautiful +than the ascent to Altamont. To give you some slight idea of the nature +of the road and of the scenery, I enclose a photograph of one of the +bridges over the Cheat River. This is called the Tray Run Viaduct, and +it is 640 feet long; the masonry is seventy-eight feet high, and the +iron-work above that is eighty feet. The road here is about seven +hundred feet above the river, which runs in the valley below. This +river, the Cheat, is a dark, rapid, mountain stream, the waters of which +are almost of a coffee-colour, owing, it is said, to its rising in +forests of laurel and black spruce, with which the high lands here +abound. + +We passed hereabouts many curious-looking log houses, a photograph of +one of which we enclose.[7] You will observe the man with a cradle by +his side, and his whip, gun, bottle, jar, &c., also the chimney, which +is a remarkable structure, consisting of a barrel above a heap of +stones, showing the resources of the West. + +Before reaching Grafton, we passed the Great Kingwood tunnel, which is +much thought of in America, being 4100 feet in length, though it is +greatly beat by many of our tunnels in England; but tunnels are rare in +America, as the roads generally run through the valleys. + +We reached Grafton at four o'clock, and had a lovely afternoon to +explore the beauties of the neighbourhood. We went into a number of +cottages and log-huts, and were delighted with the people; but the +details of our Grafton visit must be given to you _vivâ voce_ on our +return. The night was brilliant, and it was one o'clock in the morning +before we took our last look of the moonlit valley, and of the rivers +which here joined their streams almost under the windows of our rooms. + +We may mention that in this day's journey, we passed the source of the +Monongahela, the chief branch of what afterwards becomes the Ohio. It is +here a tiny little clear stream, winding through the glades we have +spoken of. + +On Thursday morning, though it was past one before we went to bed, I was +up at six, as soon as it was light, to make a sketch from our bed-room +window, which will give you hereafter some notion of the scene, though +neither description nor drawing can convey any real idea of it. After +breakfast, papa and I and Thrower went up a tolerably steep hill to the +cottage of three old ladies, whose characters I had an opportunity of +studying while papa went on with the guide to the Great National or +State Turnpike Road, or "Pike Road" as they called it, which used to be +the connecting link between Washington and Southern Virginia. Though +much disused it is still well kept up. After going along it for some +distance, papa struck up to the top of a high hill, from whence he had a +magnificent view of the valleys on both sides of the ridge he was on, +and he was surprised to find what large tracts of cultivated ground were +visible, while to those below there seemed nothing but forest-covered +mountains, but between these he could see extensive glades, where every +patch was turned to account. This we afterwards saw from other parts of +the road. + +While papa was taking his hasty walk, Thrower and I sat down in the +log-hut where these three old spinster sisters had lived all their +lives. They were quite characters, and cultivated their land entirely +with their own hands; though, when we asked their ages, two of them said +they were "in fifty," and one "in sixty;" they were most intelligent and +agreeable, and two looked very healthy; but the third had just had a +severe illness, and looked very ill. One was scraping the Indian corn +grains off the cob, using another cob to assist her in the work; we +watched the beautifully-productive plant, and admired its growth. Their +cottage or hut looked quite comfortable, and there were substantial log +stables and farm-buildings adjoining. When the weather permitted, they +got down the hill to Grafton to the Methodist meeting. There is no +Episcopal church there yet, excepting a Roman Catholic one, to which +they will not go, though they speak with thankfulness of the kindness +they have received from the priest. + +They said their father used to tell them to read their Bible, do their +duty, and learn their way to heaven, and this they wished to do. They +were honest, straightforward good women, and _ladies_ in their minds, +though great curiosities to look at. + +This walk, and our subsequent explorings in Grafton, occupied the whole +forenoon, the temptation to pick the red leaves and shake the trees for +hickory nuts being very great, and having greatly prolonged the time +which our walk occupied. But the village itself, for it is no more, +though, having a mayor, it calls itself a city, had great objects of +interest, and is a curious instance of what a railway will do in +America to _make_ a town; for it scarcely had any existence three years +ago, and is now full of artificers and others employed in the railway +works, all fully occupied, and earning excellent wages. + +The people marry so early that the place was almost overflowing with +children, who certainly bore evidence in their looks to the healthiness +of the climate. + +This being a slave state, there was a sprinkling of a black population; +and among the slaves we were shocked by observing a little girl, with +long red ringlets and a skin exquisitely fair, and yet of the proscribed +race, which made the institution appear more revolting in our eyes than +anything we have yet seen. The cook at the hotel was a noble-looking +black, tall and well-made, and so famous for his skill at omelettes, +that we begged him to give us a lesson on the subject, which he +willingly did. I asked him if he were a slave, and he replied, making me +a low bow, "No, ma'am, I belong to myself." The little red-haired girl +was a slave of the mistress of the hotel. + +We again linked ourselves on to a train which came up at about one +o'clock, and at Benton's Ferry, about twenty miles from Grafton, we +crossed the Monongahela, over a viaduct 650 feet long; the iron bridge, +which consists of three arches of 200 feet span each, being the longest +iron bridge in America. Though the water was not very deep, owing to a +recent drought, it was curious to see the little stream of yesterday +changed into an already considerable river, almost beating any we can +boast of in England. + +We now began to wind our way down the ravine called Buffalo Creek, which +we passed at Fairmont, over a suspension bridge 1000 feet long. The road +still continued very beautiful, and was so all the way to this place, +Wheeling, which we reached at about six o'clock. The last eleven miles +was up the banks of the _real_ Ohio, for the Monongahela, after we last +left it, takes a long course northward, and after being joined at +Pittsburg by the Alleghany, a river as large as itself, the two together +there, form the Ohio. From Pittsburg to where we first saw it, it had +come south more than 100 miles, and at Wheeling it is so broad and deep +as to be covered with magnificent steamers; there were five in front of +our hotel window, and most singular-looking they were, with their one +huge wheel behind, scarcely touching the water, and their two tall +funnels in front. They tower up to a great height, and are certainly +the most splendid-looking steamers we ever saw. + +We here left our valued friend Mr. Tyson, who after calling on us at the +hotel in the evening, was to return at ten o'clock to Baltimore. We +certainly never enjoyed a journey more. He is the most entertaining man +you can imagine, full of anecdotes and good stories; and, as we have +said before, with such a marvellous memory, that he could repeat whole +passages of poetry by heart. His knowledge too of botany was delightful, +for there was not a plant or weed we passed of which he could not only +tell the botanical and common name, but its history and use. He has +travelled much, having been employed in mining business in the Brazils. +He has also been in the West Indies, in England, Scotland, and Ireland, +and on the Continent of Europe. + +We had a pleasing variety in occasional visitors to the car; for not +only the work-people on the road, as I have said, got up behind to speak +to Mr. Tyson, and were always received by him in the most friendly +manner, being men of high calibre in point of intelligence, but we had +at different times a Dr. Orr, a physician and director of the railway, +who was on the engine with us to set our bones, if papa had capsized us +and the doctor had escaped; also a Dr. Gerbard, a German surgeon, with +a scar on his cheek from a duel at college in his youth. Dr. Orr was +accompanied by a lady, with whom I conversed a good deal, and found she +was the owner of many slaves; but I must write you a chapter on slavery +another time. All the last day of our journey from Grafton to Wheeling, +was through Virginia, and the rural population were chiefly slaves. The +two doctors I have mentioned were our visitors yesterday. To-day, we had +throughout with us Mr. Rennie (Mr. Tyson's assistant), and also Major +Barry, an agent of the Company, and an officer in the United States +service, who in the last Indian war captured with his own hand, Black +Hawk, the great Indian Chief, in Illinois. He is an Irishman by birth, +and had been in our service at the battle of Waterloo, but he left the +British army, and entered the United States service in 1818. He was very +intelligent and agreeable. Our last visitor was Colonel Moore, also an +agent of the company; a most gentleman-like man. This will show you what +a superior set of men are employed on American railways. + +Among the men who spoke to us as we stood on our balcony, was a +delightful character, a nigger. I heard Mr. Tyson look over and say, +"Jerry, why did you not tell me you were going to get married?" Up came +Jerry, looking the very picture of a happy bridegroom, having been +married the evening before to a dark widow considerably older than +himself. He was quite a "get up" in his dress, with boots of a +glistening blackness. He answered, "I sent you an invitation, Mr. Tyson, +and left it at your office." He was nothing daunted by his interesting +position in life, and had a week's holiday in honour of the event. He +was, to use his own expression, a "'sponsible nigger," though he was +actually only cleaner up, and carpet sweeper in the office, negroes +never being allowed to have any charge in the working of the line, or a +more "'sponsible" station than that connected with the office work, +though in that they are often confidentially employed in carrying money +to the bank, &c. + +_Columbus, Friday 22nd._--It began to rain last night, and continued to +pour to-day till ten o'clock, so that we had no opportunity of seeing +much of the town of Wheeling, but our rooms looked on to the Ohio, and +were within a stone's throw of it. Another great steamer had come up in +the night, so there were _six_ now lying in front of the windows, +looking like so many line-of-battle ships. + +We found that Jerry and his lady slept at our hotel, and I sent for them +next morning to speak to us. She was smartly dressed in a dark silk, +with a richly embroidered collar and pocket handkerchief, which she +carefully displayed, and a large brooch. He wore a turn-down collar to +his shirt, of the most fashionable cut; the shirt itself had a pale blue +pattern on it, and a diamond (?) shirt pin, the shirt having a frill _en +jabot_. His face was shining and glistening with cleanliness and +happiness, and she looked up to him as if she were very proud of her +young husband. He said he was very happy, and I complimented her on her +dress, and asked her if she had bought much for the occasion, and she +admitted that she had. I asked her where they went to church (all +niggers are great worshippers somewhere, and generally are Methodists); +and he said he went to the "Methodist Church," that his wife was a +member, and I encouraged him to continue going regularly. He said he had +married her for the purpose of doing so, and evidently looked up to her +as a teacher in these matters. They said they could both read printed +characters, but not writing, and that they read their Bibles. I asked +him if there were any other cars on the line like Mr. Tyson's, and he +said, "Yes, several, miss." "Are they handsomer than his?" "Some are, +they are all different in their fancy principle." He told us, of his own +accord, that they had both been slaves. He bought his freedom for five +hundred dollars. They both had been kindly treated as slaves, but he +said, not only the hickory stick, but the "raw hide," was frequently +used by unkind masters and mistresses; and, on my asking him whether +slaves had any redress in such cases, he said their free friends may try +to get some redress for them, but it does no good. This was _his_ +testimony on the subject, and I shall give you the testimony of every +one as I gather it for you to put together, that you may be able to form +your own deductions. Mr. Tyson had told us they _had_ redress, though he +is an enemy to the "institution" of slavery, as it is here called, but +still maintains, what is no doubt the case, that they are oftener much +happier in America than the free negro. Indeed he told us a well-treated +slave will look down on a freeman, and say, "_Ah! yes, he's only some +poor free trash. He's a poor white free trash._" It was curious to +notice Jerry's sayings, only some of which I can remember. Mr. Tyson +looked down the line from the balcony yesterday, and said, to Jerry, who +had got out of a passenger car for a minute, "Jerry, do you see the +train coming?" "Yes, sir; it blowed right up there;" meaning it had +whistled. I will write to you more at large ere long about slavery, when +I have not topics pressing on time and pen. + +We left our hotel this morning at eight o'clock, and even in the omnibus +noticed the improved and very intelligent appearance of the men. They +answered us quickly, cheerfully, and to the purpose; many wore large +picturesque felt hats of various forms. It is true that, on starting, we +were still in Virginia, of which Wheeling is one of the largest towns; +but the bulk of our fellow-passengers were evidently from the West; they +are chiefly descendants of the New Englanders, and partake of their +character, with the exception of the nasal twang, which is worse in New +England than anywhere else in America, and we are now losing the sound +of it. The omnibus made a grand circuit of the town to pick up +passengers, and thus gave us the only opportunity we had of seeing +something of it. It rained in torrents, and this probably made it look +more dismal than usual, but it certainly is much less picturesque and +more English-looking than any town we have yet seen. The coal and iron, +which constitute its chief trade, give it a very dirty appearance; but +its natural situation, stretching along the banks of the Ohio, which are +here very high on both sides, is very beautiful. The omnibus at last +crossed the river by a very fine suspension bridge, and, having left the +slave states behind us, we found ourselves in the free State of Ohio. + +On the opposite side of the river we entered the cars of the Ohio +Central Railroad, but alas! we had no Mr. Tyson, and no sofas or tables +or balconies, and were again simple members of the public, destined to +enjoy all the tortures of the common cars. These however were in +first-rate style, with velvet seats, and prettily painted, with +brilliant white panelled ceilings; and we here fell in again, to my no +small comfort, with the venders of fruit and literature, or "pedlaring," +as it is called, which forms a pleasant break in the tedium of a long +journey. I have been often told the reverse, but the literature sold in +this way is, as far as we have seen, rather creditable than otherwise to +the country, being generally of an instructive and useful character. +Many works published quite recently in England, could be bought either +in the cars or at the stores; and some of the better class of English +novels are reprinted in America, and sold at the rate of two or three +shillings a volume. The daily newspapers, sold on the railways, are +numerous; but these, with very few exceptions, are quite unworthy of the +country. In general there are no articles worth reading, for they are +filled with foolish and trashy anecdotes, written, apparently, by +penny-a-liners of the lowest order of ability. The magazines, and some +of the weekly illustrated papers, are a degree better, but a great deal +of the wit in these is reproduced from "Punch." + +The first eighty-two miles to Zanesville were through a pretty and hilly +country. The hills were as usual covered with woods of every hue, so +that though the scenery was inferior to what we had been passing through +for the last few days, it was still very beautiful. Zanesville, which is +a considerable town, is situated on the Muskingham river. This fine +broad stream must add considerably to the waters of the Ohio, into which +it falls soon after leaving Zanesville. + +At Zanesville, after partaking of an excellent dinner, we were joined by +an intelligent woman, returning home, with her little baby of ten weeks +old, from a visit she had just been making to her mother. Her own home +is in Missouri, and her husband being the owner of a farm of 500 acres, +she was able to give us a good deal of information about the state of +agriculture in the Far West. I learnt much from her on various subjects, +and was much surprised at the quick sharp answers she gave to all my +questions. She was well dressed, something in the style of the English +lady's maid, was evidently well to do, and was travelling night and day +with her merry little baby. She possesses one slave of fourteen, for +whom she gave four hundred dollars, whom she has had from infancy; she +brings her up as her own, and this black girl is now taking care of her +other children in her absence. I asked, "What do the slaves eat?" +"Everything: corn-bread, that's the most." Papa said, "It is a great +shame making Missouri a slave state." + +_Woman._ "Ah yes; keeps it back." + +_Self._ "Have you good health?"--many parts being said to be unhealthy. + +_Woman._ A quick nod. "First-rate." + +_Self._ "Did your mother give you the hickory stick?" + +_Woman._ "No: the switch:--raised me on the rod of correction." + +_Self._ "Had your husband the farm before you married?" + +_Woman._ "His father had 'entered it,' and he gave my husband money, and +my mother gave me money, and then we married and 'entered it' +ourselves." + +All these answers came out with the utmost quickness and intelligence. +She is an Irish Roman Catholic, her mother having brought her as a baby +from Ireland, her husband is also Irish; but they are now Americans of +the Far West in their manner and singular intelligence, beating even the +clever Irish in this respect. + +I said: "Do you pray much to the Virgin Mary in your part of America?" + +_Woman._ "No: don't notice her much." + +_Self._ "I am glad of that." + +_Woman._ "We respect her as the mother of God." + +She said the corn on the road-side we were then passing was far inferior +to western produce, that it ought to be much taller, and that if it were +so, the ear would be much larger and fuller. Our English wheat is never +called corn, but simply wheat; and the other varieties oats, rye, &c., +are called by their different names, but the generic term _corn_, in +America, always means Indian corn. It is necessary to know this in order +to prevent confusion in conversation. This woman's name was Margaret +M.; she was twenty-seven years of age, but looked younger; her husband, +James M., was thirty-six. + +I asked her whether he was tall or short. "Oh tall, of course. I +wouldn't have had a poor short man." So we looked at papa, and laughed, +and said our tastes were the same. She was a most agreeable companion. +She noticed that I was reading a novel by the author of "John Halifax," +which I had bought, the whole three volumes, for 1_s._ 6_d._, and said, +"Ah! that's the sort of reading I like. That's a novel; but my priest +tells me not to read that kind, that it fills me with silly thoughts; +but to read something to make me more intelligent." I thought there +seemed no deficiency in this respect, but agreed that the advice was +good, and said that I had bought this for cheapness, and for being +portable, it being in the pamphlet form; and that I was so interrupted +with looking at the lovely scenery when travelling, that I could not +take in anything deeper. + +We wished each other good bye, and she wished me a happy meeting again +with our children. And now papa says this must be closed, and it +certainly has attained to no mean length, so I will not begin another +sheet, and hope you will not be wearied with this long chapter. + +FOOTNOTE: + +[7] These photographs cannot be reproduced here, which I regret, as they +were very well done. + + + + +LETTER IX. + + + JOURNEY FROM WHEELING TO COLUMBUS.--FIRE IN THE MOUNTAINS.--MR. + TYSON'S STORIES.--COLUMBUS.--PENITENTIARY.--CAPITOL.--GOVERNOR + CHASE.--CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS.--ARRIVAL AT CINCINNATI. + + + Columbus, Oct. 23rd, 1858. + +The letter which I sent you from this place this morning will have told +you of our arrival here, but it was closed in such haste that I omitted +many things which I ought to have mentioned. It, moreover, carried us +only to Zanesville, and I ought to have told you that the view continued +very pretty all the way to this place, and the day having cleared up at +noon, we had a brilliant evening to explore this town. + +Before describing Columbus, however, I shall go back to some omissions +of a still older date; for I ought to have told you of a grand sight we +saw the day we passed the Alleghany Ridge. On the preceding evening Mr. +Tyson received a telegraphic message to say that an extensive fire was +raging in the forest; it is supposed to have been caused by some people +shooting in the woods. It must have been a grand sight to the +passengers by the train from which we had separated, and which went on +during the night through the scene of the conflagration, for the fire +was much more extensive than those which are constantly taking place, +and which are passed by unheeded,--unhonoured with a telegraphic notice. +When we passed by the place next morning it was still burning +vigorously, but the daylight rendered the flames almost imperceptible. +It was curious, however, to see the volumes of smoke, which we first +perceived in a hollow. The fire was then travelling down the side of the +mountain; and long after we passed the immediate spot we saw the fire +winding about the mountains, spreading greatly, in the direction of the +wind and making its way even against it, though it was blowing with +considerable violence. The people in the neighbourhood were busily +employed in trying to save their hayricks from destruction. Mr. Tyson +said they would probably succeed in this, though the whole of the forest +was likely to be burnt, as the fire would wind about among the mountains +and pass from one to another for perhaps two months, unless a heavy rain +put it out. This we hope has been the case, as it poured in torrents all +the following night when we were at Wheeling. + +Another circumstance we ought to have mentioned was our passing through +a very long tunnel, called the Board Tree Tunnel, about 340 miles from +Baltimore. This tunnel, after having fallen in, has only been repaired +within the last two months. The history of this catastrophe, and of the +mode of remedying it, forms quite an incident in the history of the +railway, and shows with what resolution difficulties in this country are +overcome. To reopen the tunnel it was clear would be a work of time, so +Mr. Tyson resolved to run a new temporary railway for three miles over +the mountain which had been tunnelled, and this was accomplished by 3000 +men in ten days. We saw the place where this road had passed, and the +zig-zag line by which the mountain was crossed. The road seems +positively to overhang the precipice, and reminded me of a mountain pass +in Switzerland--as, indeed, the whole of the road here does. Mr. Tyson +himself drove the first train over, and he said his heart was in his +mouth when, having got to the top, he saw the descent before him, and +the engine and train on a precipice where the least _contretemps_ would +have plunged the whole into the abyss below; but happily all went right, +and till within the last two months this temporary road has been used. +It was really quite frightful to look up and think a train could pass +over such a place, the grade being 420 feet in a mile, or 1 in 121/2; but +you will one day be able to form some idea of it, as a photograph was +taken, and Mr. Tyson will give us a copy of it. This is certainly a +wonderful country for great enterprises, and the Pennsylvania Central +Railway, by which we contemplate recrossing the Alleghanies, is in some +respects a still more remarkable undertaking, though the height at which +the mountains are crossed on that line is not so great as that on the +Baltimore and Ohio line, which, as I told you in my last, is at an +elevation of 2700 feet. It was long supposed that such a feat could not +be surpassed, but Mr. Tyson says that, encouraged by this, a railway now +crosses the Tyrolean Alps at a somewhat higher level. + +To return, however, to the Board Tree Tunnel: Mr. Tyson told us that the +difficulty of restoring it to a safe condition was so great as almost to +dishearten him till he had arched it completely over from one end to the +other with solid stone masonry, which has rendered the recurrence of the +accident impossible; but the disheartening circumstance, while the work +was in progress, was the danger to which the men employed in the work +were exposed, from the constant falling in of the roof. During its +progress no less than forty-five men were killed, and about 400 severely +wounded. They were chiefly Roman Catholics, and were it not for the +encouragement given by an energetic Roman Catholic priest, he hardly +thinks the men would have continued the work. The doctor, too, who +attended the wounded, and whom we saw at breakfast at Grafton, was also +most devoted to them. It was quite touching to hear the tender-hearted +way in which Mr. Tyson spoke of the poor sufferers, for he was +constantly there, and often saw them go in to almost certain death. He +mentioned one poor widow to whom he had just sent three hundred dollars +as a gift from the railway. + +Before leaving the subject of Mr. Tyson, I must tell you one or two of +his good stories. I had been telling him of the negro meeting, which I +described to you in my last. In it I told you how the negroes had cried +out "glory! glory!" from which it appears it is almost impossible that +they can refrain. In corroboration of this he told us of a nigger woman +who was sold from a Baptist to a Presbyterian family. In general slaves +adopt, at once, the habits and doctrines of their new owners; but this +poor woman could not restrain herself, and greatly disturbed the +Presbyterian congregation, by shouting out "glory! glory!" in the +middle of the service. Next morning the minister sent for her and +rebuked her for this unseemly interruption of his sermon; but she said +doggedly, "Can't help it, sir; I'm all full of glory; must shout it +out." Many of his amusing stories were about Irish labourers employed on +the road. One of these, whose duty it was to show a light at the station +as the train passed, failed one night to do so, and was seen asleep. The +man who drove the engine threw a cinder at him as he passed, to awake +him; but, instead of hitting him, the cinder broke his lamp glass. All +this was told to Mr. Tyson, and also that the man was very angry at his +lamp being broken. When Mr. T. went down the line next day, he stopped +to lecture him, and the following colloquy ensued:-- + +_Mr. Tyson._ "Well, your lamp was broke, I hear, yesterday." + +_Irishman._ "O, yes sir;" (terrified out of his life at the scolding he +feared was coming, for he saw that Mr. Tyson knew all about it;) "but I +forgive the blackguards intirely, sir, I _quite_ forgive them." + +Mr. T. kept his counsel, said nothing more, and the lamp has never +failed since; but half the merit of this story depended on Mr. Tyson's +way of telling it. He was deliciously graphic also, and full of witty +sayings of his own. When, for example, I showed him my photograph of +your little brother, he exclaimed, "Well, he _is_ a fine fellow; HE +don't mind if corn is five dollars a bushel." I think you will all +appreciate this as a perfect description of the unconcern of a healthy +intelligent-looking child, unconscious of the anxieties of those about +him; but I must reserve his other good sayings and stories till we meet. + +To-day we have been most busily employed, for Mr. Garrett, our railway +friend at Baltimore, not only did us the good service of sending us by +the car under Mr. Tyson's auspices, but gave us letters of introduction +both to this place and to Cincinnati; and his letters here to Mr. Neil +and Mr. Dennison have been of great use to us, as one or the other of +them has been in attendance upon us since 11 o'clock this morning, +together with a very pleasing person, a widow, niece of Mr. Neil, and +they have shown us the town in first-rate style. + +Columbus is built on the banks of the Sciota, about 90 miles from the +point where it falls into the Ohio. It is the capital of the State, and +its streets, like those of Washington, have been laid out with a view to +its becoming one day a town of importance; but as the preparations for +this, though on a considerable scale, are not so great as at +Washington, the non-completion of the plan in its full extent produces +no disagreeable effect. In fact, the streets where finished are +completely so, and the unfinished parts consist of an extension of +these, in the shape of long avenues of trees. In the principal streets +the houses are not continuous, but in detached villas, and, judging by +the one in which Mr. Neil lives, appear to be very comfortable +residences. He and his niece called upon us yesterday evening, and, +although he is an elderly gentleman, he was here by appointment this +morning at half-past 8, and took papa to call on Mr. Dennison, when they +arranged together the programme for the day. + +At 11 o'clock Mr. Dennison called, and took us to the Penitentiary, +where nearly 700 prisoners are confined. I think he said 695, although +it will hold the full number of 700 if need be. For the credit of the +sex, I must say that only ten out of the whole are females. These ten +are lodged each in a small room, for it can scarcely be called a cell, +very well furnished, and opening into a large sitting-room, of which +they all have the unrestrained use, although the presence of a matron +puts a restraint on their tongues. They were employed in needlework. The +cells of the men are arranged in tiers, and are certainly very +different looking habitations to those of the women, and greatly +inferior in size and airiness to the cells at Philadelphia, where, in +addition to the grating in front of the cell, there was a door behind +leading into a small enclosure or court. Here the only opening in the +cell is by a door into a long gallery, and the cells were much smaller +than either at Philadelphia or at Kingston; but the prisoners only +inhabit these cells at night, the solitary system not being adopted or +approved of here. + +The silent system, however, is practised here as at Kingston, and the +prisoners are employed in large workshops, chiefly in making +agricultural instruments, hoops for casks, saddles, carpenters' tools, +and even rocking horses and toys, which must be rather heart-breaking +work for those who have children. The men have certain tasks allotted +them, and when the day's work is done, may devote the rest of their time +to working on their own account, which most of them do; the chief warden +told us that he had lately paid a man, on his leaving the prison, a +hundred and twenty-five dollars for extra work done in this way. The +warden told us that the men, when discharged, were always strongly urged +to return to their own homes instead of seeking to retrieve their +characters elsewhere, and that their doing so was generally attended +with a better result than when they went to a new place and had no check +on their proceedings. This does away with the chief argument of our +quaker friend at Philadelphia, in favour of the solitary system, which +was, that the prisoner's return to his friends became more easy, when +none of them knew that he had been in prison, of which they could not +well be ignorant if he had mixed with other prisoners in a public jail. +It must be borne in mind, however, that the great demand in this country +for work renders it much more easy for a person so circumstanced to +obtain employment, even with a damaged character, than in England, where +our ticket-of-leave men find this almost impossible. There is also, we +are told, a kinder feeling towards prisoners here on their leaving the +jail than in England, and this saves them from the want and consequent +temptation to which our English ticket-of-leave men are exposed; the +result is that a much less proportion of those released in America are +re-committed for new offences. + +We visited the workshops, and afterwards went into a large court to see +the men defile in gangs, and march into their dining hall, in which we +afterwards saw them assembled at dinner, and a capital savoury dinner +it seemed to be. They have as much bread as they choose to eat, and meat +twice a day; their drink is water, except when the doctor orders it +otherwise. There are chaplains, called here Moral Instructors, who visit +them and perform the service in the chapel, and evening schools are +provided, at which the chaplains attend to teach reading, writing, and +arithmetic. A library of books of general information is provided for +the prisoner's use, and to each a Bible is given, and they are allowed +to buy sound and useful books. They have each a gas lamp in their cell, +which enables them to read there when their work is done, and they are +allowed to see their friends in the presence of an officer. Sixty of the +prisoners were Negroes, which is a large proportion when compared with +the total numbers of the white and black population, especially as the +blacks are often let off, owing to the leniency of the committing +magistrates who have compassion on their inferior intelligence; and it +is owing, it is said, to a like leniency that there are so few females, +though certainly not for the same reason. There are a large number of +Irish in the prison. + +Our next visit, still under Mr. Dennison's escort, was to the Capitol or +State House, a very fine building of white limestone. The façade is more +than 300 feet long, and the height nearly 160 feet to the top of the +dome. This however has not yet been completed. The architecture is +Grecian. Here, as at Washington, are Halls for the Senate and House of +Representatives, in equally good taste and somewhat similarly arranged. +Mr. Dennison, who had once been a member of the Senate, was repudiating +the accounts so commonly given of the behaviour of the senators, when +Mr. Niel came in, and over-hearing what he was saying, begged to remark +that when they "went to work" they usually divested themselves of their +coats without substituting any senatorial garment in its place; and +putting his legs on the desk before the chair, he declared that such was +the usual posture in which they listened to the oratory of the place.[8] + +We afterwards went through the apartments appropriated to the Treasurer +and Auditor of the State, the two chief officers of the Government, +which are very capacious and well fitted up--and we were specially +introduced to both these functionaries; Mr. Neil, who is somewhat of a +wag, was rather jocose with them, and high as their position here is, +they very cordially retaliated on him. We next went to those +appropriated to the Governor of the State, General Chase, in order that +we might be introduced to him, but he was out, which we regretted. He is +a candidate to succeed Mr. Buchanan as President. The remainder of the +building was occupied by numerous committee-rooms, by the courts of law, +the judges' apartments, a law library, and a beautiful room intended for +a general library, but in which the collection of books at present is +very small. On the whole the building and its contents are very +creditable to this, the largest and wealthiest of the States in the +West, considering that forty years ago the country here was a wild +forest region where no tree had been cut down. + +_25th October._--We have seen Columbus well, and it has much to attract +attention. On Saturday we went from the Capitol to the Lunatic Asylum, +but excepting in its being more pleasingly arranged than the one at +Utica, there was nothing very striking in its appearance. The galleries +in which the patients were walking were prettily decorated with flowers +cut out in paper, giving it a very gay appearance; and when the +patients become desponding, they have a dance in the great hall, to +revive them. The matron who went round with us said that the men and +women conduct themselves on these occasions with perfect propriety. The +men and women are otherwise so entirely separated in this Asylum that +papa went round to the men's wards with the doctor, while I was taken +round by the matron to those appropriated to the women. We thought it a +pleasant, cheerful-looking place, considering the melancholy object to +which it is devoted. + +The next sight we saw was, the Asylum for the Deaf and Dumb: being +Saturday, we could not see the mode of tuition, but we have gone through +it this morning, and yesterday we attended the afternoon service there, +so that in our three visits we have been able to form a pretty good idea +of the system carried out. They have an alphabet by which they can spell +words, which they do by using one hand only. They speak thus with +considerable rapidity, but this method is confined almost entirely to +express proper names and words of uncommon use, as the whole +conversation is carried on in general by signs, and it was most +beautiful to see the graceful manner in which the matron spoke to them. +As this system of signs does not represent words, but _things_ and +_ideas_, it has the great advantage of being universally understood when +taught, and as the same system is adopted in several countries of +Europe, in Norway and Sweden for example, a Norwegian and American child +can converse easily together without either knowing a syllable of the +other's language. It seems quite as rapid as talking. + +We were present at the afternoon sermon, which lasted about half an +hour, the subject being that of Simeon in the Temple, and except to +express Simeon's name, there was no use at all made of the fingers. Dr. +Stone, the principal, had preached in the morning on the subject of +Daniel's interpretation of Nebuchadnezzar's dream, and when we went, the +children were being examined on the subject of this lecture. We _saw_ a +number of questions asked, but in this case the words were spelled in +order that Dr. Stone, who was teaching them, might be satisfied that +they understood the full meaning of the question in its grammatical +sense, as well as its general signification, and the answers were all +written down on large black boards. They wrote with prodigious rapidity +in large distinct writing--and the answers, which were all different and +showed they were not got up by rote, were in most cases very good. This +was being done by the eldest class, and some of the elder boys and girls +seemed full of intelligence. We saw minutely only what was going on in +this and in the youngest class, which was no less remarkable, +considering that some of the children had not been more than two or +three months in the Asylum, and when they came there had no idea of +either reading or writing. + +When I say the youngest class, it is not with reference to the age of +the pupils, but to the recent period of their admission, for some of +them were as old in years as in the first class, while others were very +young; one of them, a very pretty little Jewish girl with sparkling +intelligent eyes, was indeed a mere child. We had on Sunday seen this +little girl being taught her lesson, which consisted of the simple +words, "I must be kind," and it was very pretty to see the way in which +the notion of kindness was conveyed by signs. This morning she was +writing this on the slate, and she afterwards wrote in a very neat +handwriting a number of short words--cat, dog, horse, &c.--which were +dictated to her by signs which were of so simple a nature that we could +understand many of them; a goat, for example, was represented by the +fingers being stuck on each side of the head as horns, and then by the +man drawing his hand down from his chin to indicate the beard. They thus +became acquainted by signs with almost every object in the first +instance, and are led on by degrees to complex ideas of every kind. Dr. +Stone says that the use of signs is known in England, but he believes is +never practised to any extent, and certainly not in giving religious +instruction. No attempt is made here, as in England, to teach them to +articulate, as he considered the attempt to do this to be a great +mistake, it being a painful effort to the child, which never leads to +any good practical result. In some cases where deafness has been +accidentally brought on after children have learned to speak, it is then +as far as possible kept up; but even then the effort, as we saw, was +very painful. + +Our next visit was to the Blind Institution, but here there was nothing +very remarkable, though owing to the children not being in school we saw +the Institution very imperfectly. Raised characters are used here, as I +believe everywhere else; one little girl who was called up read and +pronounced very well; we also heard some of them sing and play for a +considerable time. The bulk of the children, or rather young people, for +they keep them here till they are one or two and twenty, were walking +about the gardens invariably in pairs, which seems an excellent +preservative against accidents: this they do of their own accord. + +We next went to the Idiot Asylum, but the children being, as usual on +Saturday, out of doors, we merely took a general look at the place, and +returned there this morning to see the system pursued for them more in +detail. Dr. Patterson, the superintendent, is a man of wonderful energy; +and two young women and a matron, the two young teachers especially, +must be exemplary characters, for they appear to devote themselves to +their work with an energy and kindness which is perfectly marvellous, +considering the apparently hopeless task they are engaged in. However, +when taken young, from six to seven years of age, the capabilities of +these poor children for improvement seem in general great, unless the +infirmity is occasioned by epileptic fits, when the cure is considered +almost hopeless. We were entertained by a story told by Dr. Patterson of +a boy brought to him by the Mayor of C., who told him it was a bad case, +but that he would be satisfied if he could fit him to be a missionary. +Dr. P. replied that he could not answer for that, but that he could at +all events fit him to be Mayor of C. + +The great means resorted to for improvement is constant occupation, +changed every quarter of an hour through out the day. By this means +their physical power at night is nearly exhausted, and they invariably +sleep well; where no greater improvement is arrived at, they can in all +cases gain cleanly habits, and get entirely rid of that repulsive +appearance which an idiot left to himself is almost sure at last to +acquire. Active exercises are what they resort to in the first instance; +they have a large school-room fitted up with ladders and gymnastic +apparatus of all kinds. We saw little boys, who shortly before were +scarcely able to stand alone, climbing places which made me tremble for +their safety, but it was curious to observe with what caution they did +it. + +When we entered the room the youngest class were all standing round a +piano, at which one of the teachers was playing, whilst she and the +other teacher were leading them on in singing a cheerful song, and it +was really quite touching to hear and see them; they sang very fairly, +not worse than children usually do at that age. After a quarter of an +hour of this they went through their Calisthenic exercises, marching in +perfect time, clapping their hands, and going through different +gestures with great accuracy, and these poor children a very few months +ago had hardly any control over their actions. + +Another thing taught is, to distinguish colour and form--for which +purpose they have cards cut out into circles, squares, and octagons--and +other marked shapes, of every variety and shade of colour. Five or six +of these of different sorts were spread on the table, and a large +unsorted pack was placed before a little boy five or six years old, and +it was quite interesting to see him proceed to sort them by placing each +one on the top of the counterpart which had been placed at first on the +table. As there were many more kinds in the pack than those spread out +on the table, when he came to a new one he first placed it in contact +with the others to see if it suited, and after going round them all and +seeing that none were the same, he appeared puzzled, and at last set it +down in a place by itself. Although there was a certain degree of +vacancy in the expression of the child, it seemed quite to brighten up +at each successive step, and the occupation was evidently a source of +considerable enjoyment to him. This little fellow had been a very short +time in the Asylum, and when admitted had not the slightest idea of +form, colour, or size. + +Another mode adopted is, to take little blocks of wood of different +sizes and forms, which the child is required to fit into corresponding +holes cut out in a board. All this is for the least advanced pupils. +They learn afterwards to read and write, and some of the very little +ones traced lines upon a board as well as most children could do with +all their senses about them. The elder ones could write short words and +read easy books; they are taught to read by having short words like cow, +dog, ox, printed on cards, and are then shown by a picture what the +words represent, and they are not taught their letters or to spell words +till they begin to learn to write; the elementary books therefore +consist chiefly of words representing ideas quite independently of the +letters of which the words are formed. Many, however, can never fully +obtain the power of speech, and that without any physical defect in +their organs, and without the accompaniment of deafness, for they hear +perfectly. In these instances to teach them to speak is very difficult, +and sometimes hopeless. The poor little boy whom we saw sorting his +cards, was one of those cases in which no articulate sound had ever been +uttered, or could be produced by any teaching. At the same time the +development of his head, and that of many others, was almost perfect +and quite a beau ideal of what a head should be. + +I forgot in speaking of the deaf and dumb to mention that their crying +and laughter were quite like those of other children, and it appears to +be the same with the idiots, even though they cannot speak. There was +among the idiots one boy in irons to support his legs, which were +otherwise quite without power, and he seemed under this treatment to be +rapidly improving. They all have meat twice a day, and great care is +taken to feed them generously. The only other sight in Columbus is the +Medical College, which, however, we had no time to go over. We must, +however, except the Governor's house, not forgetting its inmates, +Governor Chase himself, and his interesting daughter. We had been +introduced to the Governor by Mr. Dennison, after missing him on +Saturday at the Capitol, and he most kindly asked us to drink tea and +spend the evening with him, apologising for time not permitting his +daughter to call upon us. He is Governor of the State of Ohio, an office +that is held for two years. He is a first-rate man in talent and +character,--a strong abolitionist, and a thorough gentleman in his +appearance--showing that the active and adventurous habits of his +nation are quite consistent with the highest polish and refinement. He +is deeply involved in the politics of his country, and, as I said +before, is a candidate for the next presidentship. His strong views on +the question of slavery will probably be a bar to his success, but +unfortunately another hindrance may be that very high social character +for which he is so remarkable. To judge at least by the treatment of +such men as Henry Clay, and others of his stamp, it would appear as if +real merit were a hindrance rather than a help to the attainment of the +highest offices in America.[9] + +The Governor's house looked externally something like an English rectory +standing in a little garden, and we were at first shown into a small +sitting-room. It seems the fashion all over America, as it is abroad, to +leave the space open in the middle of the room, and the chairs and sofas +arranged round the walls, but there is always a good carpet of lively +colours or a matting in summer, and not the bare floor so constantly +seen in France and Germany. The little gathering consisted of the +Governor, his two daughters (his only children), his niece, and his +sister, Mr. Dennison, and Mr. Barnay, a clever New York lawyer, with +whom we had crossed the Atlantic. But if the Governor recommended +himself to us as a gentleman, what am I to say of his daughter? Papa has +gone out and has left her description to me, whereas he could give a +much more lively one, as he at once lost his heart to her. Her figure is +tall and slight, but at the same time beautifully rounded; her neck long +and graceful, with a sweet pretty brunette face. I seldom have seen such +lovely eyes and dark eyelashes; she has rich dark hair in great +profusion, but her style and dress were of the utmost simplicity and +grace, and I almost forgave papa for at once falling in love with her. +Her father has been three times a widower, though not older-looking than +papa, and with good reason he worships his daughter. She has been at the +head of her father's house for the last six months, and the _naïve_ +importance she attached to her office gave an additional attraction to +her manners. While we sat talking in the little room the Governor handed +me a white and red rose as being the last of the season. He had placed +them ready for me in a glass, and I have dried them as a memorial of +that pleasant evening. We soon went into the dining-room, where tea and +coffee were laid out on a light oak table, with an excellent _compôte_ +of apples, a silver basket full of sweet cakes, of which the Americans +are very fond: bread--alas! always cut in slices whether at the hotels +or in private, fresh butter,--an improvement on the usual salt butter of +the country, and served, as it generally is, in silver perforated dishes +to allow of the water from the ice to drain through, and a large tureen +of cream toast. This is also a common dish, being simply slices of toast +soaked in milk or cream and served hot. It often appears at the hotels, +but there it is milk toast, and is not so good. I thought the cream +toast excellent, and a great improvement on our bread and milk in +England, but papa did not like it. The Governor and his fair daughter +presided at the table, the Governor first saying grace very reverently, +and we had a very pleasant repast. + +After this we were conducted to the drawing-room. Such a _bijou_ of a +room! The size was about twenty feet by eighteen, and the walls and +ceiling, including doors, window-frames, and shutters--there were no +curtains, might have been all made of the purest white china. It is a +most peculiar and desirable varnish which is used on their wood-work +that gives this effect. Mr. Tyson told us that it is made of Canada +balsam, and that it comes therefore from our own territory, so that it +is very stupid of Cubitt and others not to make use of it. The effect is +like what the white wood-work of our drawing-room was when it was first +finished, and you may imagine the appearance of the whole room being +done with this fine white polish everywhere. We see it in all the hotels +and railway carriages, so that it cannot be expensive. The windows were +pointed, and the shutters were made to slide into the walls. They were +shut on that evening, and were made, as they often are, with a small +piece of Venetian blind-work let into them, also painted white. If we +had called in the morning we should probably have found the room in +nearly total darkness, as we found to be the case at Mr. Neil's, for the +dear Americans seem too much afraid of their sun. There was a white +marble table in the centre of this drawing-room, and the room was well +lighted with gas. The only ornament was a most lovely ideal head in +marble by Power, the sculptor of the Greek slave. The simplicity and +beauty of the room could not be surpassed, and we spent a most +interesting evening. + +The father and daughter we found to be full of intelligence and +knowledge of our best authors, though neither of them has ever been in +England. Miss Chase is much interested in a new conservatory, took me +over it, and gave me several very pretty things to dry. I shall +endeavour to get cuttings or seeds of them. I was generous enough to +allow papa afterwards to go over the conservatory alone with her. She is +longing to come and see England, but her father is too busy at present +to leave the country. She expressed such sorrow not to know more of us, +that we promised to call this morning after our "asylum" work was done, +when she showed us over the house, which is very pretty, and nicely +arranged throughout. + +I think I have nothing more to say of Columbus, except that we heard two +sermons and _saw_ one on Sunday; for, besides the morning sermon at the +Episcopal Church, and the _sign_ one to the deaf and dumb, we looked in +at another where a negro was preaching to his fellow niggers with great +energy and life; but the ladies were quiet, and restrained their agonies +and their "glory." + +_Cincinnati, Oct. 27th._--We left Columbus at forty minutes past twelve +yesterday. Mr. Dennison and Mr. Neil's son met us at the station, and +Mr. Neil gave me some dried red leaves he had promised me, which have +kept their colour tolerably well. Mr. D. is president of the railroad +on which we were about to travel, and wished to give us free tickets to +this place, but papa declined with many thanks. Papa has no sort of +claim or connection with this railway, and I only mention the +circumstance to show the extreme kindness and liberality of these +gentlemen, who knew nothing of us, and probably had never heard our +names until they had received letters of introduction about us from +others, who were themselves equally strangers to us a few days ago. They +introduced us to the freight agent of the Ohio and Mississippi Railway, +who travelled with us, as did also a clever handsome widow. She seemed +to be well connected, being related to General Cass and other people of +note. She reminds me a little of Mrs. B. in style and manner, and it is +pleasant to have some one to talk to, for we do not find people in +general communicative in travelling, though papa says the fault may be +ours. + +There was nothing particularly pretty on the road, as the trees are, I +grieve to say, losing their leaves in this neighbourhood; but on +approaching this great city, "the Queen of the West," we came again on +the Ohio. The water is now very low, but the bed of the river shows how +great its width is when full; and even now there is a perfect navy of +splendid steamers floating on its waters, many of which we saw as our +train drove through the suburban streets of the city. Unhappily the rain +poured down upon us as we got into the omnibus, but we were soon +consoled by finding ourselves in this most magnificent hotel, the finest +I have yet seen. The drawing room, is I should think, unsurpassed in +beauty by any hotel anywhere, and I shall endeavour to make a drawing of +it before I leave. The hotel at Columbus was tolerably large, as you may +suppose, when I tell you that our dining room there was about ninety +feet by thirty. This one, however, has two dining rooms of at least +equal dimensions, which together can dine 1000 persons, and it makes up +600 beds. We sat in the drawing room yesterday evening, for we could not +reconcile ourselves to leave it, even to write this journal. There were +various ladies and gentlemen laughing and talking together, but no +evening dresses, and nothing of any importance to remark about them. One +young lady only was rather grandly dressed in a drab silk; she +afterwards sat down to the piano, and began the usual American jingle, +for I cannot call it music; and I have since been told she was the +daughter of the master of the house. "Egalité" is certainly the order of +the day here, and this young lady was treated quite on an equality with +the other ladies in the room. The food is excellent, and we are very +thankful to have so luxurious a resting place if we are at all detained +here. We have several friends in the hotel, who are here to meet papa on +business. + +This morning we have had a visit from Mr. Mitchell, the astronomer, and +author of the work on Astronomy, which I remember reading with pleasure +just before I left England. His daughter is to call on me and drive us +out, and we are to pay a visit to his observatory. We went this +afternoon to leave some letters, which Mr. Dennison had given us for Mr. +Rufus King and Mr. Lars Anderson. We found Mrs. King at home; her +husband is much devoted to educational subjects and to the fine arts. +There were some very good pictures and engravings in the drawing room, +and amongst the latter two of Sir Robert Strange's performances. We +found both Mr. and Mrs. Anderson at home; they live in a splendid house, +but as it was getting dark we could not see the details. We sent in our +cards with our letter, and the room being full of people, Mr. Anderson +introduced papa to each one separately, and me as Mrs. S----. As these +guests went out others came in, and fresh introductions took place, but +still always Mr. T---- and Mrs. S----, and he so addressed me during the +visit. As we were going away papa said that he was making some strange +mistake about my name, but he insisted upon it that we had so announced +it; and on looking at our cards I found the card of a very vulgar lady +at New York, which I had given by mistake as my own. + +As we were leaving the room, a very amiable and pleasing person asked me +if I would not call upon Mr. Longworth, the most celebrated character in +this country, who she said was her father and the father of Mrs. +Anderson. I said that we had letters to him from Mr. Jared Sparks, and +that we had meant to call on him the next day, but she said we had +better return with her then. We accordingly accompanied her through Mr. +Anderson's garden, and through an adjoining one which led to her +father's house, likewise a very large one, though not presenting such an +architectural appearance as Mr. Anderson's. The old gentleman soon made +his appearance, and afterwards Mrs. Longworth. They were a most +venerable couple, who had a twelve-month ago celebrated their golden +marriage, or fiftieth anniversary of their wedding day. We were invited +to stay and drink tea, which we did, and met a large assemblage of +children and grand-children; a great-grand-child who had been present +at the golden wedding, was in its nursery. + +Mr. Longworth, among other things remarkable about him, is the +proprietor of the vineyards from which the sparkling champagne is +produced, known, from the name of the grape, as the sparkling Catawba; +but he seems no less remarkable from the immense extent of his +strawberry beds, which cover, I think he said, 60 acres of ground. He +told us the number of bushels of fruit they daily produce in the season; +but the number is legion, and I dare not set it down from memory. He +showed papa a book he had written about his grapes and strawberries, and +is very incredulous as to any in the world being better than his. This +led to a discussion upon the relative size of trees and plants on the +two sides of the Atlantic; and in speaking of the Indian corn, he tells +us he has seen it standing, in Ohio, eighteen feet high, and he says it +has been known, in Kentucky, to reach as high as twenty-five feet, and +the ear eighteen inches long. + +The old gentleman is a diminutive-looking person, with a coat so shabby +that one would be tempted to offer him a sixpence if we met him in the +streets; indeed a story is told of a stranger, who, going into his +garden, and being shown round it by Mr. Longworth, gave him a dollar, +which the latter good-humouredly put into his pocket, and it was not +till he was asked to go into the house that the stranger discovered him +to be the owner.[10] He is, however, delightfully vivacious, and full of +agricultural hobbies. His wife is a very pleasing, primitive-looking +person. We tasted at their house some of the ham for which this city, +called by the wits Porkopolis, is so remarkable. The maple sugar is used +in curing it, and improves the flavour very much. + +_October 28th._--I must bring this letter to a rapid close, for it must +be posted a day earlier than we expected. We intend to start in two days +for St. Louis, and there I will finish my account of Cincinnati. To-day +we have seen a great many schools, which have given us considerable +insight into the state of education in America. My next letter will +probably bring us to our most western point, though we have not yet +quite settled whether we shall go to the Falls of St. Anthony, or to +Chicago. Papa says I must close, and I must obey. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[8] Though this description of the Senate was meant as a good-humoured +satire on the absence of etiquette in their assemblies, it is probably +no very exaggerated account of what is sometimes seen there; but it +would be most unfair to draw any conclusion from this as to the +behaviour in general society of well-educated gentlemen in America, +there being as much real courtesy among these as is found in any other +country, though certainly not always accompanied by the refinements of +polished society in Europe. + +[9] It is not meant here to obtrude special views of politics, or to +maintain that democratic principles have naturally this tendency; but it +may help to explain why so little is heard or known in England of the +better class of Americans. Their unobtrusive mode of life entirely +accounts for this, and it is to be regretted that it is the noisy +demagogue who forms the type of the American as known to the generality +of the European public. + +[10] I should not have taken the liberty of printing this account of Mr. +Longworth were he not, in a manner, a public character, well known +throughout the length and breadth of the land, and his eccentricities +are as familiar to every one at Cincinnati as his goodness of heart. In +speaking, too, of his family, it is most gratifying to be able to record +the patriarchal way in which we found him and Mrs. Longworth, surrounded +by their descendants to the third generation. + +If any apology is required, the same excuse--of his being a well-known +public character--may be made for saying so much of Governor Chase and +of his family. + + + + +LETTER X. + + + CINCINNATI.--MR. LONGWORTH.--GERMAN POPULATION---"OVER THE + RHINE."--ENVIRONS OF CINCINNATI.--GARDENS.--FRUITS.--COMMON + SCHOOLS.--JOURNEY TO ST. LOUIS. + + + Vincennes, Indiana, Nov. 1st, 1858. + +My last letter brought us up to our arrival at Cincinnati, and our +passing the evening at Mr. Longworth's on the following day. Next day, +Wednesday the 27th, Mrs. Anderson, Mr. Longworth's daughter, called and +asked us to spend that evening also at her mother's house. She took me +out in her carriage in the morning to see some of the best shops, which +were equal to some of our best London ones in extent and in the value of +the goods; and in the course of the day we called at Monsieur Raschig's; +he not being at home, we made an appointment to call there late in the +evening. + +The party at the Longworths was confined to the members of their large +family, all of whom are very agreeable. There were two married +daughters, Mrs. Flagg and Mrs. Anderson, and the grandson and his +wife, Mr. and Mrs. Stettinius; and we also saw the little +great-grand-daughter, who is a pretty child of eighteen months. The +dining-room not being long enough to accommodate us all at tea, the +table was placed diagonally across the room, and it was surprising to +see Mrs. Longworth pouring out tea and coffee for the whole party as +vigorously as if she were eighteen years old, her age being seventy-two. +She is remarkably pretty, with a fair complexion, and a very attractive +and gentle manner and face. + +We had quails and Cincinnati hams, also oysters served in three +different ways--stewed, fried in butter, and in their natural state, but +taken out of their shells and served _en masse_ in a large dish. Our +friends were astonished that we did not like these famous oysters of +theirs in any form, which we did not, they being very huge in size and +strong in flavour. We said, too, we did not like making two bites of an +oyster; they pitied our want of taste, and lamented over our miserably +small ones in England. After tea we saw some sea-weed and autumnal +leaves beautifully dried and preserved by Mrs. Flagg, and we also +looked over an illustrated poem on the subject of Mr. and Mrs. +Longworth's golden wedding, the poem being the composition of Mr. Flagg. +Towards ten o'clock a table was laid out in the drawing-room with their +Catawba champagne, which was handed round in tumblers, followed by piles +of Vanilla ice a foot and a half high. There were two of these towers of +Babel on the table, and each person was given a supply that would have +served for half a dozen in England; the cream however is so light in +this country that a great deal more can be taken of it than in England; +ices are extremely good and cheap all over America; even in very small +towns they are to be had as good as in the large ones. Water ices or +fruit ices are rare; they are almost always of Vanilla cream. In summer +a stewed peach is sometimes added. + +We left the Longworths that evening in a down pour of rain, so that papa +only got out for a minute at the door of Miss Raschig's uncle, and asked +him to breakfast with us next morning. He accordingly came; we found him +a most quick, lively, and excellent man, full of intelligence, and he +received us with the warmth and ardour of an old friend, having during +the twenty-five years he has been in America scarcely ever seen any one +who knew any of his relatives. He is a Lutheran minister, and has a +large congregation of Germans. He said a good deal had been going on +during the revivals at Cincinnati, and he thought the feeling shown was +of a satisfactory kind; there had been preaching in tents opposite his +church. + +The part of the town where he resides beyond the Miami Canal, which +divides it into two portions, is known by the name of "Over the Rhine," +and is inhabited almost entirely by Germans, of whom there are no less +than 60,000 in the town. Mr. Raschig's own family consists of nine sons +and one daughter, the youngest child being a fortnight old. We went to +see them before we left the place, and found the mother as excellent and +agreeable as himself, with her fine little baby in her arms. She said +that boys were much easier disposed of than girls in this country, and +their three eldest sons are already getting their livelihood, the eldest +of all being married. We saw the third son, a very intelligent youth, +who is a teacher in one of the schools in the town, and the daughter, a +pleasing girl of fourteen, sung to us. She promises to have a good +voice, though it will never equal her cousin's. + +On the evening of the 28th we went by invitation to Mr. and Mrs. +King's. He is a lawyer, and they are connected by marriage with the +Neils of Columbus and with the Longworths. The Andersons were there, and +we again had a liberal supply of ices. The following evening, the 29th, +we went to the Andersons, where there was a large party consisting of +the Directors of the Ohio and Mississippi Railway, with whom, by the +bye, I had dined that day at the hotel, there being ten gentlemen and +myself, the only lady, at table. The party at the Andersons was also an +assemblage of some of the beau monde of Cincinnati. The ladies were all +dressed in high silk dresses remarkably well made, and looking as if +they all had come straight from Paris. I never saw a large party of +prettier or better chosen toilettes. The dresses were generally of rich +brocaded silk, but there was nothing to criticise, and all were in +perfect taste. We assembled in a long drawing-room carpeted, and +sufficiently supplied with chairs, but there being neither tables nor +curtains, the room had rather a bare appearance, though it was well +lighted and looked brilliant. Towards ten o'clock we were handed into +the dining-room, where there was a standing supper of oysters,--the +"institution" of oysters as they justly call it,--hot quails, ham, ices, +and most copious supplies of their beloved Catawba champagne, which we +do not love, for it tastes, to our uninitiated palates, little better +than cider. It was served in a large red punch-bowl of Bohemian glass in +the form of Catawba cobbler, which I thought improved it; but between +the wine and the quails, which, from over hospitable kindness, were +forced on poor papa, he awoke the next morning with a bad headache, and +did not get rid of it all day. + +The weather during our stay at Cincinnati was so wet that, with the +exception of a drive which Mr. Anderson took us to some little distance +on the heights above, and a long visit which we paid to the school under +Mr. King's auspices, we had little out-door work to occupy us. I once, +however, and papa twice, crossed the Ohio in a steamboat, and took a +walk in the opposite slave state of Kentucky. The view thence of the +town and its fleet of steamboats is very striking. The opposite hills, +with the observatory perched on the highest summit, were very fine. + +Mr. Anderson one day took us a long drive to the top of these hills; the +whole country, especially near a village called Clifton, about six miles +from the town, is studded with villas. We drove through the grounds of +two which overlooked splendid views of the neighbouring country; each of +them being situated at the end of a sort of natural terrace projecting +into the valley, and thus commanding a panoramic view all round. + +The grounds attached to these villas are of considerable extent, but +nothing has surprised us more than the poverty of the gardens in +America. It may, however, be accounted for by the difficulty and expense +of obtaining labour in this country, and by the consequent facility with +which men who show any talent, and are really industrious, can advance +themselves. A scientific gardener, therefore, if any such there be, +would not long remain in that capacity. One of the houses had a really +fine-looking conservatory attached to it, but, like others we have seen +in the course of our travels, it was almost entirely given up to rockery +and ferns. This is a degree better than when the owners indulge in +statuary. We were made by the driver on another occasion to stop at a +garden ornamented in this way, but certainly Hiram Power's talents had +not been called into request, and the statues were of the most +common-place order. + +It is not only in their gardens, however, but in the general ornamental +cultivation of their grounds, that the Americans are deficient, for +even at Newport, where we greatly admired, as I think I mentioned, the +greenness of the grass, it was coarse in quality, and bore no sort of +resemblance to a well-trimmed English lawn. Nor have we ever seen any +fruit, with the exception of their apples, to compare to ours in +England. These are certainly very fine. I hardly know the weight of an +English apple, but at Columbus we got some which were brought from the +borders of Lake Erie which are called the twenty-ounce apple. The one we +ate weighed about sixteen ounces, and measured thirteen inches round. +They are said to weigh sometimes as much as twenty-seven ounces. It is +what they call a "fall," meaning an autumnal, apple.[11] + +Next to their apples their pears deserve notice; but, though better than +ours, they are not superior to those produced in France. The quantity of +fruit, however, is certainly great, for the peaches are standard and +grown in orchards; but they are quite uncultivated, and the greater part +that we met with were hardly fit to eat. They are, notwithstanding, +very proud of their fruit, especially of these said peaches and of their +grapes, which, to our minds, were just as objectionable productions. +There is one kind called the Isabella, which we thought most +disagreeable to eat, for the moment the skin is broken by the teeth and +the grape squeezed the whole inner part pops out in a solid mass into +the mouth. We are past the season of wild flowers; but these must make +the country very beautiful in the early spring, to judge from the +profusion of rhododendron and other shrubs, which were most luxuriant, +especially where we crossed the Alleghanies and along the banks of the +Connecticut. To return, however, to our drive. + +After visiting these villas we passed a great number of charitable +institutions for the relief of the poor, who are remarkably well looked +after in this country. One of these institutions was the Reformatory, a +large building, where young boys are sent at whatever age they may prove +delinquents, and are kept and well educated till they are twenty-one. +But the grand mode in which the state provides against crime of all +kinds is the system of education for all classes. + +I have said we went under Mr. King's guidance to see the common schools +of Cincinnati. These are divided into three classes, called the +district schools, the intermediate schools, and the high schools; we +went through each grade, and were much pleased with the proficiency of +the pupils. The examinations they went through in mental arithmetic were +very remarkable, and the questions put to the boys of the intermediate +class, who were generally from eleven to thirteen years old, were +answered in a very creditable manner. + +In the high school, the teaching is carried on till the pupils reach the +age of sixteen or seventeen, and even eighteen, after which they either +leave school altogether or go to college. They are generally the +children of artisans or mechanics, but boys of all ranks are admitted, +and are moved on from one grade to another. The schools are entirely +free, and girls are admitted as well as boys, and in about equal +numbers. The girls and boys are taught, for the most part, in separate +rooms, but repeat their lessons and are examined together, so that there +is a constant passing in and out from one class-room to another, but +still great order is preserved. This assembling together, however, of +large numbers of boys and girls, for so considerable a portion of the +day, did not strike us as so desirable as it is there said to be. The +advocates of the system say it refines the rough manners of the boys; +but it is more than questionable if the characters of the girls are +improved by it, and if the practice, in its general results, can be +beneficial. + +The subjects taught to both boys and girls are invariably the same; and +it was curious to hear girls translating Cicero into excellent English, +and parsing most complicated sentences, just like the boys, and very +often in better style, for they often answered when the boys could not. +They seemed chiefly girls from sixteen to eighteen. They answered, also, +most difficult questions in logic, and they learn a good deal of +astronomy, chemistry, &c., and have beautiful laboratories and +instruments. Music is also taught in a very scientific way, so as to +afford a knowledge of the transpositions of the keys, but in spite of +this, their music and singing are very American. German and French are +also taught in the schools when required. + +The teachers, both men and women, have very good salaries; the youngest +women beginning with 60_l._ and rising to 120_l._ a year, while the +men's salaries rise up to 260_l._ a year, and that in the intermediate +or second class schools. This style of education may appear too advanced +for girls in their rank of life, but in this country, where they get +dispersed, and may attain a good position in a distant district, the +tone thus given by education to the people, is of great importance. The +educating of the females in this way must give them great powers, and +open to them a field of great usefulness in becoming teachers themselves +hereafter. The education given is altogether secular, and they profess +to try and govern "by appeals to the nobler principles of their nature," +as we gather from a report which was put into our hands at leaving. + +This is but a weak basis for a sound education, and I cannot but think +its insufficiency is even here practically, and perhaps unconsciously, +acknowledged; for, though no direct religious instruction is professedly +given, a religious tone is nevertheless attempted to be conveyed in the +lessons. At the opening of the school, a portion of the Bible is read +daily in each class; and the pupils are allowed to read such versions of +the Scriptures as their parents may prefer, but no marginal readings are +allowed, nor may any comments be made by the teachers.[12] + +We left Cincinnati this morning in the car appropriated to the use of +the Directors of the Ohio and Mississippi Railway, on which line we are +travelling. It is neatly fitted up with little "state" rooms, with sofas +all round. There were four of these, besides a general saloon in the +middle; but the whole was greatly inferior to the elegance of Mr. +Tyson's car on the Baltimore and Ohio Railway. Our party consisted of +about thirty persons, of whom four were judges, and about a third of the +number were ladies, accompanying their liege lords, and chiefly asked in +honour of me, to prevent my being "an unprotected female" among such a +host of gentlemen. An ordinary car was attached to that of the +Directors, for the use of any smokers of the party. We left Cincinnati +at half-past eight, and reached this place, Vincennes, where we are to +sleep, at about six o'clock. The road was very pretty, though the leaves +were nearly all off the trees; the forms of the trees were, however, +lovely, and it was quite a new description of country to us, the +clearings being recent and still very rough in appearance, and the +log-houses, in most places, of a most primitive kind. Vincennes, where +we are to sleep, is an old town of French origin, prettily situated on +the river Wabash, which we can see from our windows. + +_St. Louis, November 4th._--We came on here on the 2nd instant, and soon +after leaving Vincennes found ourselves in a prairie, but it was not +till after sixty miles that we got to the Grand Prairie, which we +traversed for about sixty more. The vastness, however, of this prairie, +consists in its length from north to south, in which it stretches +through nearly the whole length of the State. These prairies are +enormous plains of country, covered, at this time, by a long brown +grass, in which are the seed-vessels and remains of innumerable flowers, +which are said to be most lovely in their form and colour in the spring. +It was disappointing only to see the dark remains of what must have been +such a rich parterre of flowers. One of our party, Colonel Reilly, of +Texas, who had seen our Crystal Palace gardens at Sydenham, in full +flower, said that they reminded him of the prairies in the spring. The +ground is so level, that the woods on the horizon had the effect that +the first sight of the dark line of land has at sea. In many places near +the road on each side, small farms were established, and good-sized +fields of Indian corn were growing; and wherever there was a railway +station, a town, or even a "city" with one or two churches, and an +hotel, besides grocery stores and wooden buildings of various kinds, +were in progress in this immense wilderness. + +The rain poured down incessantly, giving the country a melancholy and +forlorn appearance. Towards the latter part of our journey, we descended +into and traversed the great valley of the Mississippi. We passed +several coal-mines, and here, where the vein of coal is eight feet +thick, the land, including the coal, may be bought for one pound an +acre. The country soon assumed the appearance of a great swamp, and is +most unhealthy, being full of fever and ague. + +At length our train stopped, and we were ushered into omnibuses of +enormous length, drawn by four horses, and two of these caterpillar-like +looking vehicles were driven on to the steam-ferry, and in this +unromantic way we steamed across the great Father of Waters, and a most +unpoetic and unromantic river it appeared to be. There is nothing in +its width here to strike the eye or the imagination, though its depth is +very great, and it has risen ten feet within the last week. But it +appeared to us ugly and inconsiderable after the wide, rapid, clear, and +magnificent St. Lawrence. We were driven through a sea of mud and mire +to this large and comfortable hotel, and were shortly afterwards seated +at table with the rest of our party. + +I forgot to mention that, at Vincennes, seven sportsmen had been out all +day, before we arrived, to procure game for us, and were much +disappointed at not being able to get us any prairie hens, which are a +humble imitation of grouse, though Americans are pleased to consider +them better than that best of birds; but "comparisons are odious," and +the prairie-hens are very praiseworthy and good in their way. We had, +however, abundance of venison and quails, and the same fare met us here, +with large libations of champagne. The owner of our hotel at Cincinnati +travelled with us, and looked as much like a gentleman as the rest of +the party; and we have been joined here in our private drawing-room by +the landlord and landlady of this hotel. Not knowing at first who they +were, papa turned round to the former, and asked him if he knew St. +Louis, and had been long here, to which our friend replied, "Yes, sir; +I have lived here eighteen years, and am the master of this hotel." +Yesterday our dinner was even better than on the day of our arrival, +closing with four or five omelettes soufflées, worthy of Paris, and the +same number of pyramids of Vanilla ice. So much for the progress of +civilisation across the Mississippi. + +We paddled about in the muddy streets yesterday, and looked in at the +shop-windows. We found even here plenty of hoop petticoats, and of +tempting-looking bookseller's shops. Our hotel is close to the +Court-house, a handsome building of limestone, with a portico and a +cupola in process of building, being a humble imitation of the one at +Washington. Yesterday evening, one or two of the gentlemen amused us +after dinner with some nigger songs, ending, I suppose out of compliment +to us, with "God save the Queen." I studied the toilette of one of our +party this morning--the only young unmarried lady among us. I had often +seen the same sort of dress at the hotels, but never such a good +specimen as this. It is called here the French morning robe or wrapper, +and this one was made of crimson merino, with a wide shawl bordering +half-way up the depth of the skirt. The skirt is quite open in front, +displaying a white petticoat with an embroidered bordering. The body of +the wrapper was formed in the old-fashioned way, with a neck-piece, with +trimmings of narrow shawl borderings; there was no collar at all, the +crimson merino coming against the neck without any break of even a frill +of white. The sleeves were very large, of the latest fashion, with white +under sleeves, and the waist was very short, confined with a red band of +merino. These dresses are very common in the morning, and are, I +believe, thought to be very elegant. They are frequently made like this, +of some violent coloured merino, and often of silk, with trimmings of +another coloured ribbon. + +Having digressed so far from my account of St. Louis, I will go back for +a few minutes to Cincinnati, to describe the grand fire-engines we saw +there, with horses all ready harnessed. One particular engine, in which +the water was forced up by steam, could have its steam up and be ready +for action in three minutes from its time of starting, and long, +therefore, in all probability before it reached the place where its +services were required. These engines all had stags' horns placed in a +prominent position in front, as a sign of swiftness, and on this +particular one there was printed under the horns, "Sure Thing, 287 +feet," meaning that it could throw the water that height. Another had +on it, "243 feet. Beat that!" the Americans being very laconic in all +their public communications. The regular plan on which most of the +American towns are built and the division into wards, give great +facilities for showing where a fire takes place; balls are shown from +the top of a high tower to direct the engines where to go, the number of +balls pointing out the ward where the fire exists. + +Another grand invention, which we found here as well as everywhere else, +is their sewing machine. These sewing machines wearied us very much when +we landed at New York, for they seemed to be the one idea of the whole +country; and I am afraid we formed some secret intentions to have +nothing to do with them. I had seen them in a shop window in the City, +in London, but knowing nothing of their merits, almost settled in my own +mind they had none. At last I found how blind I had been, and what +wonderful machines they are. There are numbers of them of various +degrees of excellence. They are so rapid in their work, that if a dress +without flounces is tacked together, it can be made easily by the +machine in a morning: a lady here showed me how the machine is used; she +told me it is so fascinating that she should like to sit at it all day. +She works for her family, consisting of a husband and nine sons, and +takes the greatest pleasure in making all their under clothing; and +working as she does, not very constantly, she can easily do as much as +six sempstresses, while the machine, constantly worked, could do as much +as twelve. The work is most true and beautiful and rapid, and the +machine must be an invaluable aid where there is a large family. It is +much used also by tailors and shoemakers, for it can be used with all +qualities of materials, whether fine or thick. The price of one is from +15_l._ to 25_l._ It requires a little practice to work at it, but most +American ladies who have large families possess one, and dressmakers use +them a great deal. + +_November 4th._--To return to this town of mud and mire, we have been +nearly up to our knees in both to-day, and went on board one of the +large steamers, but found it was not nearly so grandly fitted up as the +one in which we went from New York to Newport. There is an enormous +fleet of steamers here, but the Mississippi still looked most dingy, +muddy, and melancholy. We were given tickets this evening, to hear a +recitation by a poet named Saxe, of a poem of his own, on the Press, and +we soon found ourselves in an enormous hall about 100 feet by 80, +nearly filled by a very intelligent-looking audience. A man near us told +us that Mr. Saxe had a European reputation, which made us feel much +ashamed of our ignorance, in never having heard of him before, and, +unhappily, we came away no wiser than we went as regards the merits of +his poetry; for though our seats were near him, there was something +either in the form of the hall, or in the nature of his voice and +pronunciation, which made us unable to hear what he said. There were +bursts of laughter and applause at times from the audience, but we took +the first opportunity of leaving. + +As we walked home, we passed a brilliantly-lighted confectioner's shop, +where we each had an ice, but they were too sweet, and after eating and +criticising them, we came to another confectioner's, when papa insisted +upon going in, and ordered two more ices, which were very good. We were +presented here with filtered water, the usual drinking water in this +town being something of the colour of dingy lemonade, though its taste +is good. + +We purpose going to-morrow.... I turn to ask papa where--and he shakes +his head, and says he does not know. On my pressing for a more distinct +answer, he says, "Up the Missouri at all events." This sounds vague, +but I believe before night we shall be on our way to Chicago, and shall +thus have taken leave of the "far west." And now I must take my leave of +you for the present, though I fear this is but a dull chapter of the +journal. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[11] As an instance of the ingenious devices used to save labour in this +country, we may mention a machine for paring apples, which we bought in +the streets at Boston for twenty cents, or about 10_d._ English. By +turning a handle it can perform, simultaneously, the operations of +peeling the apple, cutting out the core, and slicing it. + +[12] For fear that we may have misinterpreted what is said above, we +think it advisable, as the matter is a most important one, and one that +may interest others, to extract from the report the passage on which +these observations were founded; for it is not a clear specimen of +American composition, and might, therefore, easily become a subject of +misrepresentation:-- + +"The Opening Exercises in every Department shall commence by the reading +of a portion of the Bible, by or under the direction of the teacher, and +appropriate singing by the pupils. + +"The pupils of the Common Schools may read such version of the Sacred +Scriptures as their parents or guardians may prefer, provided that such +preference of any version except the one now in use be communicated by +the parents or guardians to the Principal Teachers, and that no notes or +marginal readings be read in the school, or comments made by the +Teachers on the text of any version that is or may be introduced." + + + + +LETTER XI. + + + ST. LOUIS.--JEFFERSON CITY.--RETURN TO ST. + LOUIS.--ALTON.--SPRINGFIELD.--FIRES ON THE + PRAIRIES.--CHICAGO.--GRANARIES.--PACKING HOUSES.--LAKE + MICHIGAN.--ARRIVAL AT INDIANAPOLIS. + + + Jefferson City, on the Missouri, + Nov. 6th, 1858. + +Here we are really in the Far West, more than 150 miles from the +junction of the Missouri with the Mississippi, though still 2950 from +the source of this great-grandfather of waters--for I can give it a no +less venerable name. We first caught sight of it, or struck the river, +as the phrase is here, about 98 miles below this city, and for a long +time we followed its banks so closely, that we could at any point have +thrown a stone from the car into the river. At Hermann, a little German +settlement on its banks, we stopped and had an excellent dinner, but it +was so late before we left St. Louis, that we passed the greater part of +what seemed very pretty scenery in the dark, so that I shall defer any +further description of it till we return over the ground on Monday. + +We were most unfortunate in our weather during our stay at St. Louis, +and I had no opportunity of seeing the beauties of the neighbourhood, +which we hear much extolled, but respecting which we are rather +sceptical. The only drive we took, was to a new park being made outside +the town, called Lafayette Park, which gave us anything but a pleasant +impression of the _entourage_ of St. Louis; we must admit, however, that +a very short distance by railway brought us into a very pretty country, +and no doubt the dismal weather and bad roads made our drive very +different to what it might have been on a fine day. Still, with the +impression fresh in our memory of our drive in the neighbourhood of +Cincinnati in much the same sort of weather, we are compelled to think +that the country about the Queen of the West and the banks of the Ohio +greatly surpasses in beauty St. Louis and the muddy river which has so +great a reputation in the world. + +_Springfield, Illinois, November 9th._--Although our damp disagreeable +weather has not left us, we have contrived to see a good deal of +Jefferson City. We made a dash a short way up the Missouri in a +steamboat, and landed and took a walk on the northern side of the +river, and as we exchanged a mud for a sandy soil, it was less +disagreeable than on the south side. The northern shore, which from the +opposite side seemed hilly and well wooded, is very pretty, but on +landing the hills had receded to a distance, and we found a considerable +plain between them and the river. Up to the water's edge, however, the +country is well wooded. On the spot where we landed we saw a large tree, +at least ten feet in diameter, burnt almost to its centre, and its fine +head destroyed by fire; and on asking some bystanders if any one had +intended to burn it down, they said, "Oh, no, some one has merely made a +fire there to warm himself;" a strong proof of the little value put here +on fine timber. + +The view of Jefferson City from the opposite bank, looking down the +river, is very striking. Being the capital of the state of Missouri, +there was the usual Capitol or state-house, and, unlike most others that +we have seen, the building with its large dome was completed. It is a +fine edifice of white stone, standing at a great height above the river, +on what is here called a bluff, namely, a rock rising perpendicularly +from the water's edge. The principal part of the town is built along the +heights, but the ground slopes in places, and the houses are then +carried down to the river side. The railway runs under the cliff, and +can be seen winding along up and down the river, for some distance each +way; it has not yet been carried much further, as this is the last large +town to which railways in the west reach; but, as its name, the Pacific +Railway, implies, it is intended ultimately to be carried "right away" +west till it joins the ocean. We went on Sunday to the Episcopal church. +There was the Communion service, and a very good sermon on the subject +of that ordinance. + +We yesterday returned to St. Louis, and after a brief halt came on here. +As our journey back to St. Louis was in the daytime, we had an +opportunity of seeing the very interesting country which we passed on +Saturday in the dark. The most remarkable feature of the road was +crossing the Osage within 200 or 300 yards of its confluence with the +Missouri. It is about 1,200 feet broad, and we saw in it one of those +beautiful steamboats which give so much character here to the rivers. +The Osage is navigable for these large boats for 200 miles above this +place. We passed various other rivers, among others the Gasconade, at a +spot memorable for a terrible catastrophe which happened on the day of +the opening of the railway, when the first bridge which crossed it gave +way as the train was passing, and nine out of thirteen cars were +precipitated into the bed of the river; thirty people, chiefly leading +characters of St. Louis, were killed, and many hundreds desperately +hurt. + +We have little more to say of St. Louis, as the museum was the only +public building we visited. The great curiosity there is the largest +known specimen of the mastodon. It is almost entire from the tip of its +nose to the tip of its tail, and measures ninety-six feet in length. We +left St. Louis, and were glad to escape for a time at least out of a +slave state. The "institution" was brought more prominently before us +there than it has yet been, as St. Louis is the first town where we have +seen it proclaimed in gold letters on a large board in the street, +"Negroes bought and sold here." In the papers, also, yesterday, we saw +an advertisement of a "fine young man" to be sold, to pay a debt. + +We took our departure in the Alton steamboat, in order to see the first +twenty-four miles of the Upper Mississippi, and the junction of that +river and the Missouri, which takes place about six miles below Alton; +both rivers, however, are very tame and monotonous, and it was only as +we were reaching Alton, that the banks of the Mississippi assumed +anything like height. Alton itself stands very high, and as it was +getting dark when we arrived, the lights along the hills had a fine +effect. We are told it is a pretty town, but it was dark when we landed, +and we had to hurry into the train that brought us to this place. The +steamboat in which we went up the river was a very fine one, but not at +all fitted up in the sumptuous manner of our Newport boat. Papa paced +the cabin, and made it 276 feet long, beyond which there was an outside +smoking cabin, and then the forecastle. + +Springfield is in the midst of the Grand Prairie, and, as we are not to +leave it till the afternoon, we have been exploring the town, and, as +far as we could, the prairie which comes close up to it; but the moment +the plank pavement ceased, it was hopeless to get further, owing to the +dreadfully muddy state of the road. This mud must be a great drawback to +residing in a prairie town, as the streets are rendered impassable for +pedestrians, unless at the plank crossings. On our way back to the +hotel, we accosted a man standing at his door, whose strong Scotch +accent, in reply to a question, told us at once where he came from. He +asked us into his house, and gave us a good deal of information about +the state of the country. He was originally a blacksmith at Inverary, +and had after that pursued his calling in a very humble way in Fife and +in Edinburgh, and came out here penniless twenty-six years ago, when +there were only a few huts in the place; but he has turned his trade to +better account here, for he lives in a comfortable house, and has +_$_50,000, or 10,000_l._ invested in the country. He seemed very pleased +to see us, and talked of the Duke of Argyle's family, as well as of the +Durhams, Bethunes, Anstruthers, &c. Having lived when in Fife, at Largo, +he seemed quite familiar with the Durhams, with the General's little +wife, and with Sir Philip's adventures, from the time of the loss of the +Royal George downwards. + +This is the capital of Illinois, and the state-house here, too, is +finished, and is a fine building. The governor has a state residence, +which is really a large and handsome building, but is altogether +surpassed by the private residence of an ex-governor, who lives in a +sumptuous house, to judge from its external accompaniments of +conservatory, &c.; it is nearly opposite our Scotch friend's abode, but +the ex-governor dealt in "lumber" instead of iron, and from being a +chopper of wood, has raised himself to his present position. + +_Chicago, Nov. 10th._--We did not reach Chicago last night till 12 +o'clock, our train, for the first time since we have been in America, +having failed to reach its destination at the proper time; but the delay +of two hours on this occasion was fairly accounted for by the bad state +of the rails, owing to the late rains. Before it became dark we saw one +or two wonderful specimens of towns growing up in this wilderness of +prairie. The houses, always of wood and painted white, are neat, clean, +and well-built. There is, generally, a good-looking hotel, and +invariably a church, and often several of these, for although one would +probably contain all the inhabitants, yet they are usually of many +denominations, and then each one has its own church. About twenty or +thirty miles from Chicago, we saw a very extensive tract of prairie on +fire, which quite illuminated the sky, and, as the night was very dark, +showed distinctly the distant trees and houses, clearly defining their +outline against the horizon. On the other side of us, there was a +smaller fire, but so close as to allow us to see the flames travelling +along the surface of the ground. These fires are very common; we saw no +less than five that night in the course of our journey. + +We have been busily employed to-day in going over Chicago. The streets +are wide and fine, but partake too abundantly of prairie mud to make +walking agreeable: some of the shops are very large; a bookseller's +shop, to which papa and I made our way, professes to be the largest in +the world, and it is certainly one of the best supplied I ever saw with +all kinds of children's books. From the bookseller's we went to papa's +bankers, Messrs. Swift and Co.; Mr. Swift took us to the top of the +Court-house, a wonderful achievement for me, but well worth the trouble, +as the view of the town was very surprising. We went afterwards to call +on William's friend, Mr. Wilkins, the consul, where we met Lord +Radstock. Mr. Wilkins kindly took us to see Mr. Sturge's great granary; +there are several of these in the town, but this, and a neighbouring +one, capable of holding between them four or five million bushels of +corn, are the two largest. The grain is brought into the warehouse, +without leaving the railway, the rails running into the building. It is +then carried to the top of the warehouse "in bulk," by means of hollow +cylinders arranged on an endless chain. The warehouse is built by the +side of the river, so that the vessels which are to carry the corn to +England or elsewhere, come close under the walls, and the grain is +discharged into the vessels by means of large wooden pipes or troughs, +through which it is shot at once into the hold. Mr. Wilkins has seen +80,000 bushels discharged in this manner, in one day. + +We afterwards drove about six miles into the country, through oceans of +mud, to see one of the great slaughter and packing-houses. I did not +venture out of the carriage, but the proprietor took Mr. Wilkins, Lord +Radstock, and papa through every part of the building. In a yard below +were a prodigious number of immense oxen, and the first process was to +see one of these brought into the inside of the building by means of a +windlass; which drew it along by a rope attached to its horns and +passing through a ring on the floor. + +The beast, by means of men belabouring it from behind, and this rope +dragging it in front, was brought in and its head drawn down towards the +ring, when a man with a sledge-hammer felled it instantaneously to the +ground; and without a struggle it was turned over on its back by the +side of eight or ten of its predecessors who had just shared the same +fate, and were already undergoing the various processes to which they +had afterwards to be subjected. The first of these was to rip up and +remove the intestines of the poor beast, and it was then skinned and +cut lengthways into two parts, when the still reeking body was hung up +to cool. The immense room was hung with some hundreds of carcases of +these huge animals thus skinned and cleft in two. The process, from the +time the animal leaves the yard alive till the time it is split and hung +up in two pieces, occupied less than a quarter of an hour. At the end of +two days they are dismembered, salted, packed in casks, the best parts +to be shipped to England, and the inferior parts to be eaten by the free +and enlightened citizens of this great continent. The greater number of +these beasts come from Texas, and have splendid horns, sometimes three +feet long. + +The next thing they saw was the somewhat similar treatment of the poor +pigs; but these are animals, of which for size there is nothing similar +to be seen in England, excepting, perhaps, at the cattle show. At least, +one which papa saw hanging up weighed 400 lbs., and looked like a young +elephant. In the yard below there was a vast herd of these, 1500 having +arrived by railway the night before; the number killed and cut up daily +averages about 500. It takes a very few minutes only from the time the +pig leaves the pen to its being hung up, preparatory to its being cut up +and salted. They first get a knock on the head like the more noble +beasts already mentioned; they are then stuck, in order to be thoroughly +bled; after this they are plunged headlong into a long trough of boiling +water, in which they lie side by side in a quiescent state, very +different to the one they were in a few minutes before, when they were +quarrelling in a most unmannerly manner in the yard below. From this +trough the one first put in is, by a most ingenious machine, taken up +from underneath, and tossed over into an empty trough, where in less +than a minute he is entirely denuded of his bristles, and passed over to +be cleft and hung up. The trough holds about eight or ten thus lying +side by side, and the moment one is taken out at one end, another is put +in at the other, and they thus all float through the length of the +trough, and are taken out in order; but so rapid is the process, that no +one pig is long in; in fact, the whole business occupies only a very few +minutes per pig. Every part is turned to account, the mass of bristles +being converted into tooth brushes, &c. In the huge larder, in the story +next above the oxen, there were about 1500 unhappy pigs hung up to cool, +before being cut up, salted, packed, and sent off. There are several +establishments of this nature in Chicago, but only one of equal extent +to the one papa saw. About 400,000 pigs are shipped every year from +Chicago. I do not know the total number of cattle, but this house alone +slaughters and sends away 10,000. There were places on an enormous scale +for preparing tallow and lard, and there were many other details equally +surprising, which I have not now time to describe; but papa says that +the smells were most offensive, and that it was altogether a very +horrible sight, and it was one I was well pleased to escape. + +Among the other wonders of Chicago, I must do honour to its hotel, which +I should say was as good as any we have yet seen in America. These +American hotels are certainly marvellous "institutions," though we were +getting beyond the limits of the good ones when we reached Jefferson +City. That, however, at St. Louis is a very fair sample of a good one. + +_Indianapolis, Nov. 11th._--We arrived here late this afternoon, and +have not been able as yet to see anything of the town, I shall therefore +defer a description of it to my next. The road from Chicago was not +without its interest, though we are becoming very tired of the prairies. +At first starting we went for many miles along the borders of Lake +Michigan, which we again came upon at a very remarkable spot, Michigan +city, about sixty miles from Chicago. Along the first part of the lake, +in the neighbourhood of Chicago, the shore consists of fine sand, in +strips of considerable width, and flat like an ordinary sea beach; but +at Michigan city the deep sand reached to a considerable distance +inland, and then rose into high dunes, precisely like those on the +French coast. As we had to wait an hour there, papa and I scrambled up +one of these, and although below there was deep loose sand, yet above it +was hard and solid, and bound together with little shrubs like the +French dunes. The view of the lake from the top was very pretty, and +boundless towards the north, we being at the southern extremity. I +picked up a few stones on the beach as a memorial of this splendid lake. +We were very much tempted, when at Chicago, to see more of it, and to go +to Milwaukee and Madison, but we were strongly advised by Mr. Wilkins +not to go further north at this season. The wreaths of snow which during +the night have fallen in patches along the road, and greeted our eyes +this morning, confirmed us in the wisdom of this advice, and we are now +bending our steps once more towards the south. We are still here in the +midst of prairie, but more wooded than in our journey of Tuesday. We +crossed to-day, at Lafayette, the Wabash, which we had crossed +previously at Vincennes, and here, as there, it is a very noble river. +This must end my journal for the present. + + + + +LETTER XII. + + + INDIANAPOLIS.--LOUISVILLE.--LOUISVILLE AND PORTLAND + CANAL.--PORTLAND.--THE PACIFIC STEAMER.--JOURNEY TO + LEXINGTON.--ASHLAND.--SLAVE PENS AT LEXINGTON.--RETURN TO + CINCINNATI.--PENNSYLVANIA CENTRAL RAILWAY.--RETURN TO NEW YORK. + + + Lexington, Kentucky, Nov. 13th, 1858. + +My last letter was closed at Indianapolis, but despatched from +Louisville. On the morning after I wrote we had time, before starting +for Louisville, to take a walk through the principal streets of +Indianapolis. The Capitol or state-house is the only remarkable +building; and here, as in most other towns in America, we were struck by +the breadth of the streets. In the centre of Indianapolis there is a +large square, from which the four principal streets diverge, and from +the centre of this, down these streets, there are views of the distant +country which on all sides bounds the prospect. This has a fine effect, +but all these capital cities of states have an unfinished appearance: +great cities have been planned, but the plans have never been +adequately carried out. The fact is, they have all a political, and not +a commercial origin, and they want the stimulus of commercial enterprise +to render them flourishing towns, or to give them the finished +appearance of cities of much more recent date, such as Chicago and +others. + +We left Indianapolis at about half-past ten, and reached Jeffersonville, +on the north side of the Ohio at four. The country at first was entirely +prairie, but became a good deal wooded as we journeyed south. It is much +more peopled than the wide tracts which we have been lately traversing, +for neat towns with white wooden houses and white wooden churches here +succeeded each other at very short distances; we crossed several large +rivers, tributaries of the Wabash; one, the White river, was of +considerable size, and the banks were very prettily wooded. At +Jeffersonville we got into a grand omnibus with four splendid white +horses, and drove rapidly down a steepish hill, straight on board the +steamboat which was to carry us across the Ohio. The horses went as +quietly as on dry land, and had to make a circuit on the deck, as we +were immediately followed by another similar equipage, four in hand, for +which ours had to make room. This was followed by two large baggage +waggons and a private vehicle; and all these carriages were on one side +of the engine-room. At the other end there was space for as many more, +had there been any need for it; and all this on a tiny little steamboat +compared with the Leviathans that were lying in the river. + +On reaching Louisville we were comfortably established in a large +handsome hotel. As there was still daylight, we took a walk through the +principal streets, and found ourselves, as usual, in a bookseller's +shop; for not only are these favourite lounges of papa's, but we +generally find the booksellers intelligent and civil people, from whom +we can learn what is best worth seeing in the town. The one at +Louisville lauded very much the pork packing establishments in this +town, and said those at Chicago, and even those of Cincinnati, are not +to be compared with them; but without better statistics we must leave +this question undecided, for papa saw quite enough at Chicago to deter +him from wishing to go through the same sight at Louisville; we, +however, availed ourselves of the address he gave us of the largest +slave-dealer, and went to-day to see a slave-pen. + +We have lately been reading a most harrowing work, called the +"Autobiography of a Female Slave," whose experience was entirely +confined to Kentucky--indeed, to Louisville and the adjoining country +within a few miles of the Ohio. She describes Kentucky as offering the +worst specimen of a slave's life, and gives a horrid account of the +barbarity of the masters, and of the almost diabolical character of the +slave-dealers, and of those who hold subordinate situations under them. +We were hardly prepared, therefore, on reaching this pen to be received, +in the absence of the master, by a good-looking coloured housekeeper, +with a face as full of kindness and benevolence as one could wish to +see, but "the pen" had yesterday been cleared out, with the exception of +one woman with her six little children, the youngest only a year old, +and two young brothers, neither of whom the dealer had sold, as he had +been unable to find a purchaser who would take them without separating +them, and he was determined not to sell them till he could. In the case +both of the woman and of the two boys, their sale to the dealer had been +caused by the bankruptcy of the owner. The woman had a husband, but +having a different master, he retained his place, and his master +promised that when his wife got a new home he would send him to join +her. + +No doubt this separation of families is a crying evil, and perhaps the +greatest practical one, as respects hardship, to which the system is +necessarily subject; but certainly, from what we have seen and heard +to-day, it does not seem to be harshly done, and pains are taken to +avoid it: the woman said she had been always kindly treated, and there +was not the slightest difficulty made by the dark duenna to our +conversing with the slaves as freely as we liked, and she left us with +the whole group. The woman took us to see her baby, and we found it in a +large and well ventilated room, and she said they had always as much and +as good food as they could wish. She said she was forty-five years old, +and had ten children living, but the four eldest were grown up. The +eldest of those she had with her was a little girl of about thirteen; +she said, in answer to a question from papa, that the children had made +a great piece of work at parting with their father, but the woman +herself seemed quite cheerful and satisfied with her prospects. + +On our journey here there were a great many slaves in the car with us, +coming to pass their Sunday at Lexington. They seemed exceedingly merry, +and one, whom papa sat next, said he had accumulated $950, and that when +he got $1900, he would be able to purchase his freedom. He said his +master was a rich man, having $300,000, and that he was very well +treated; but that some masters did behave very badly to their slaves, +and often beat them whether they deserved it or not. From the specimen +we had of those in the cars, they seemed well-conditioned men, and all +paid the same fare that we did, and were treated with quite as much +attention. They seem to get some sort of extra wages from their masters +besides their food and raiment, out of which they can lay by if they are +provident, so as to be able to purchase their freedom in time; but they +do not seem always to care about this, as one man here has $4000, which +would much more than suffice to buy his freedom; but he prefers +remaining a slave. We shall probably see a good deal more of the +condition of the slaves within the next few days, so I shall say no more +upon the subject at present, excepting that all this does not alter the +view which we cannot help taking of the vileness of the institution, +though it certainly does not appear so very cruel in practice as it is +often represented to be by the anti-slavery party. + +There are only two great sights to be seen at Louisville. One, the +famous artesian well, 2086 feet deep, bored to reach a horrid sulphur +spring, which is, however, a very strong one as there are upwards of 200 +grains of sulphates of soda and magnesia in each gallon of water, and +upwards of 700 grains of chlorides of sulphur and magnesia. There is a +fountain over the well, in which the water rises 200 feet, but whether +by external pressure or by the natural force of the water, the deponent +sayeth not. It comes out in all sorts of forms, sometimes imitating +flowers, and sometimes a shower of snow, on which the negro who showed +it to us expatiated with great delight. When I said there were only two +sights to see, I alluded to this well, and to the magnificent steam +vessel, the "Pacific," which was lying at Portland, about three miles +down the Ohio, below the Falls; but I forgot altogether the Falls +themselves, and the splendid canal described in papa's book, through +which vessels are obliged to pass to get round them, which I ought not +to pass without some notice. The river here is upwards of a mile wide, +but the falls are most insignificant; and though the Guide Book +describes them as "picturesque in appearance," and that the islands give +the Ohio here "the appearance of a great many broken rivers of foam, +making their way over the falls, while the fine islands add greatly to +the beauty of the scene;" neither papa with his spectacles, nor I with +my keen optics, could see more than a ripple on the surface of the +water. These falls, however, are sufficient to prevent vessels of any +great burden ascending or descending beyond this point of the river, and +hence the necessity of the canal: but this splendid work, about which +papa's interest was very great, in consequence of what he had written +about it, proved as great a disappointment as the falls themselves. It +must, however, have been a work of great difficulty, as it is cut +through a solid bed of rock.[13] The locks are sufficiently capacious +to allow of the passage of steamers 180 feet long by 40 feet in breadth, +one of which we saw in the lock, and there were three others waiting to +pass through. + +These, to our eyes, seemed large and beautiful vessels; but they were +altogether eclipsed and their beauty forgotten, when we found ourselves +on board the "Pacific." This vessel was to sail in the evening, and is +one of the most splendid steamers on the river; certainly nothing could +exceed her comfort, infinitely beyond that of the Newport boat, as the +saloon was one long room, unbroken by steam-engine or anything else, to +obstruct the view from one end to the other. Brilliant fires were +burning in two large open stoves, at equal distances from either end, +and little tables were set all down the middle of the room, at which +parties of six each could sit and dine comfortably. The vessel was +upwards of 300 feet long, the cabin alone being about that length. On +each side of the cabin were large, comfortable sleeping berths, and on +the deck below, adjoining the servants' room, was a sweet little +nursery, containing, besides the beds and usual washing apparatus, four +or five pretty little rocking-chairs, for the children. We were shown +over the kitchen, and everything looked so complete and comfortable that +we longed to go down in her to New Orleans, whither she is bound, and +which she will reach in six days. Everything was exquisitely clean, the +roof and sides of the cabin being of that beautiful white varnish paint +which I have before described, which always looks so pure and lovely. +There was not much ornament, but all was in good taste. + +On leaving the "Pacific," we drove to the inn at Portland. The +Kentuckians are a fine tall race of men; but, tall as they are in +general, the landlord, Mr. Jim Porter, surpassed them all in height, +standing 7 feet 9 inches without his shoes. This is the same individual +of whom Dickens gave an amusing account in his American notes fifteen +years ago. + +We left Louisville at two o'clock, and came on to Lexington this +afternoon. The country is much more like England than anything we have +yet seen, being chiefly pasture land. The grass is that known here, and +very celebrated as the "blue grass" of Kentucky; though why or wherefore +it is so called we cannot discover. It is of prodigiously strong growth, +sometimes attaining two feet in height; but it is generally kept low, +either by cropping or cutting, and is cut sometimes five times a year. +The stock raised upon it is said to be very fine, and the animals are +very large and fine looking; but either from the meat not being kept +long enough, or from some cause which we cannot assign, the beef, when +brought to table, is very inferior to the good roast beef of Old +England. + +The road from Louisville to this place is pretty throughout, and seemed +quite lovely as we approached Frankfort, though it was getting too dark +as we passed that town to appreciate its beauties thoroughly. For some +miles before reaching it, the road passes through a hilly country, with +beautiful rounded knolls at a very short distance. The town is situated +on the Kentucky river, the most beautiful, perhaps, in America. In +crossing the long bridge, we had a fine view down its steep banks, with +the lights of the town close on its margin. The state Capitol which we +passed, is close to the railway, and is a marble building, with a +handsome portico. We were very sorry not to have stopped to pass +to-morrow, Sunday, at this place, but we were anxious to reach +Lexington, in order to get our letters. We have no great prospects here, +as the hotel, excepting the one at Jefferson City, is the worst we have +found in America. We had hardly set foot in it, when General Leslie +Combe called upon us, having been on the look-out for our arrival. He +claimed cousin-ship, having married a Miss T----, but we must leave it +to Uncle Harry to determine to which branch of the T---- family she can +claim kindred. + +_November 15th._--The weather has been unpropitious, and instead of +starting to explore the Upper Kentucky, which we had meant to do, we are +returning this afternoon to Cincinnati. We have, however, been able to +see all the sights here that are worth seeing, besides having been +edified yesterday by a nigger sermon, remarkable, even among nigger +sermons, for the wonderful stentorian powers of the preacher. The great +object of interest here is Ashland, so called from the ash timber with +which the place abounds. This was the residence of Henry Clay, the great +American statesman. General Combe gave us a letter of introduction to +Mr. James B. Clay, his eldest son, who is the present proprietor of the +"location." The house is very prettily "fixed up," to use another +American phrase; but we were disappointed with the 200 acres of park, +which Lord Morpeth, who passed a week at Ashland, is said to extol as +being like an English one. We saw nothing, either of the "locust +cypress, cedar, and other rare trees, with the rose, the jasmine, and +the ivy, clambering about them," which the handbook beautifully +describes. The fact is, the Americans, as I have before observed, have +not the slightest idea of a garden; and on papa's venturing to insinuate +this to Mr. Clay, he admitted it, and ascribed it to its undoubted +cause, the expense of labour in this country. + +From Ashland we went to what is really a Kentucky sight, the Fair +Ground. On an eminence at about a mile from the town, surrounded by +beautiful green pastures, there stands a large amphitheatre, capable of +holding conveniently 12,000 spectators. In the centre is a large grass +area, where the annual cattle show is held, and when filled it must be a +remarkable sight. From this we went to the Cemetery, which, like all +others in this country, is neatly laid out, and kept in very good order. +The grave-stones and monuments are invariably of beautiful white marble, +with the single exception of a very lofty monument which is being raised +to the memory of Mr. Clay. It is not yet finished, but to judge either +from what has been accomplished, or from a drawing papa saw of it on a +large scale, in a shop window, it is not likely to prove pretty, and +the yellowish stone of which it is being built, contrasts badly with the +white marble about it. + +We went next to see a very large pen, in which there were about forty +negroes for sale; they had within the last few days, sold about 100, who +had travelled by railway chained together. Those we saw, were divided +into groups, and we went through a variety of rooms in which they were +domiciled, and were allowed to converse freely with them all. This is +one of the largest slave markets in the United States, and is the great +place from which the South is supplied. There are, in this place, five +of these pens where slaves are kept on sale, and, judging from this one, +they are very clean and comfortable. But these pens give one a much more +revolting idea of the institution than seeing the slaves in regular +service. There was one family of a man and his wife and four little +children, the price of "the lot" being _$_3500, or 700_l._ sterling, but +neither the man nor the woman seemed to care much whether they were sold +together or not. There was one poor girl of eighteen, with a little +child of nine weeks old, who was sold, and she was to set off to-night +with her baby, for a place in the State. The slave-dealer himself was a +civil, well-spoken man, at least to us, and spoke quite freely of his +calling, but we thought he spoke harshly to the poor negroes, especially +to the man with the wife and four children. It appears he had bought the +man separately from the woman and children, in order to bring them +together, but the man had attempted to run away, and told us in excuse +he did not like leaving his clothes behind him; whereupon papa asked him +if he cared more for his clothes than his wife, and gave him a lecture +on his domestic duties. The dealer said they sometimes are much +distressed when separated from their wives, or husband and children, but +that it was an exception when this was so. One can hardly credit this, +but so far as it is true it is one of the worst features of slavery that +it can thus deaden all natural feelings of affection. We have spoken a +good deal to the slaves here, and they seem anxious to obtain their +freedom. The brother of one of the waiters at our hotel had twice been +swindled by his master of the money he had saved to purchase his +freedom. I spoke to the housemaid at our hotel, also a slave, who +shuddered with horror when she described the miseries occasioned by the +separation of relations. She had been sold several times, and was +separated from her husband by being sold away from him. She said the +poor negroes are generally taken out of their beds in the middle of the +night, when sold to the slave-dealers, as there is a sense of shame +about transacting this trade in the day-time. From what the slaves told +us, they are, no doubt, frequently treated with great severity by the +masters, though not always, as they sometimes fall into the hands of +kind people; but though they may have been many years in one family, +they never know from hour to hour what may be their fate, as the usual +cause for parting with slaves is, the master falling into difficulties, +when he sells them to raise money, or to pay his debts. The waiter told +us, he would rather starve as a freeman than remain a slave, and said +this with much feeling and energy. + +_Cincinnati, Nov. 15th_, 9 P.M.--We arrived here again this evening at +about seven o'clock. The road, the whole way from Lexington, 100 miles, +is very pretty, following the course of the Licking for a long way, with +high steep banks on both sides, sometimes rising into high hills, but +opening occasionally into wide valleys, with distant views of great +beauty. In many places the trees here have still their red, or rather +brown leaves, which formed a strange contrast with the thick snow +covering their branches and the ground beneath. The snow storm last +night, of which we had but the tail at Lexington, was very heavy +further north, and the snow on the ground lighted up by the moon, +enabled us to see and enjoy the beauty of the scenery as we approached +Covington, at which place we embarked on board the steamboat to cross +the Ohio. I omitted, when we were here before, to mention that in our +Sunday walk at Covington, when we first crossed over to Kentucky, we +witnessed on the banks of the river a baptism by immersion, though the +attending crowd was so large that we could not distinctly see what was +going on. We are told, that on these occasions, the minister takes the +candidate for baptism so far into the river, that they are frequently +drowned. I forget if I mentioned before that Covington is built +immediately opposite Cincinnati, at the junction of the Ohio and the +Licking, which is here a considerable river, about 100 yards wide, and +navigable for steamboats sixty miles further up. The streets of +Covington are all laid out in a direct line with the corresponding +streets in Cincinnati, and as the streets on both sides mount up the +hills on which the towns are built, the effect is very pretty, +especially at night, when the line of lamps, interrupted only by the +river, appears of immense length. When the river is frozen over, the +streets of the two cities may be said to form but one, as carts and +carriages can then pass uninterruptedly from the streets of Cincinnati, +to those on the opposite side, and _vice versâ_. This snow storm, which +has made us beat a rapid retreat from the cold and draughty hotels in +Kentucky, makes us feel very glad to be back in this comfortable hotel. + +_Pittsburgh, Nov. 17th._--Lord Radstock made his appearance at +Cincinnati yesterday, having come from Louisville in a steamer. The day +was very bright and beautiful, though intensely cold; and as papa was +very anxious to show Lord Radstock the view of Clifton from the heights +above, we hired a carriage and went there. We were, however, somewhat +disappointed, for the trees were entirely stripped of the beautiful +foliage which clothed them when we saw them three weeks ago, and were +laden with snow, with which the ground also was deeply covered; and +although the effect was still pretty, this gave a harshness to the +scene, the details being brought out too much in relief. The same cause +detracted, no doubt, from the beauty of the scenery we passed through to +day on our way here, and greatly spoilt the appearance of the hills +which surround Pittsburgh. + +But I must not anticipate a description of our journey here, but first +tell you of our further proceedings at Cincinnati. Lord Radstock is much +interested in reformatories and houses of refuge, and we were glad to +visit with him the one situated at about three miles from the town, the +exterior only of which we had seen in our drive with Mr. Anderson. The +building is very large and capacious, having cost 2700_l._ It is capable +of holding 200 boys and 80 girls, and the complement of boys is +generally filled up; but there are seldom above 60 girls. The whole +establishment seems admirably conducted. The boys and girls are kept +apart, and each one has a very nice, clean bed-room, arranged in prison +fashion, and opening on to long galleries; but with nothing to give the +idea of a cell, so perfectly light and airy is each room. There is an +hospital for the boys and one for the girls, large and well ventilated +rooms; that of the girls is beautifully cheerful, with six or eight nice +clean beds; but it says a good deal for the attention paid to their +health, that out of the whole number of boys and girls, there was only +one boy on the sick list, and he did not appear to have much amiss with +him. This is somewhat surprising, as the rooms in which they work are +heated by warm water, to a temperature which we should have thought must +be very prejudicial to their health, but with this exception, they have +every advantage. A large playground, a very large chapel, where they +meet for prayers and reading the Bible, the boys below, and the girls in +a gallery, and large airy schoolrooms. The children are admitted from +the age of 7 up to 16, and the boys are usually kept till 21, and the +girls till they are 18. The girls are taught needlework and household +work, or rather are employed in this way, independently of two hours and +a half daily instruction in the school, and the boys are brought up to a +variety of trades, either as tailors, shoemakers, workers of various +articles in wire, or the like. The proceeds of their work go in part to +pay the expenses of the establishment, but the cost is, with this small +exception, defrayed by the town, and amounts to about 20_l._ annually +for each boy. These poor children are generally sent there by the +magistrates on conviction of some crime or misdemeanour, but are often +sent by parents when they have troublesome or refractory children, and +the result is, in most cases, very satisfactory. They all seemed very +happy, and the whole had much more the appearance of a large school, +than of anything partaking of the character of a prison. Having called +in the afternoon and taken leave of the Longworths, Andersons, and +others, who had shown us so much kindness when we were last here, we +started at half-past ten at night for this place. + +As we were already acquainted with the first part of the road to +Columbus, we thought we should not lose much by this plan, and we wished +besides to try the sleeping cars, which has not proved altogether a +successful experiment as far as papa is concerned, for he had very +little sleep, and is very headachy to-day in consequence. Thrower, too, +was quite knocked up by it; my powers of sleeping at all times and +places prevented my suffering in the same way, and I found these +sleeping cars very comfortable. They are ingeniously contrived to be +like an ordinary car by day; but by means of cushions spread between the +seats and a flat board let down half way from the ceiling, two tiers of +very comfortable beds are made on each side of the car, with a passage +between. The whole looks so like a cabin of a ship, that it is difficult +not to imagine oneself on board a steamboat. Twenty-four beds, each +large enough to hold two persons, can be made up in the cars, and the +strange jumble of ladies and gentlemen all huddled together was rather +ludicrous, and caused peals of laughter from some of the laughter-loving +American damsels. The cots are provided with pillows and warm quilted +counter-panes and curtains, which are all neatly packed away under the +seats in the daytime. The resemblance to the steamboat in papa's +half-waking moments seemed too much for his brain to be quite clear on +the subject of where he was. Thrower, who had shared my couch, got up +_sea sick_ at about four in the morning, the motion of the carriage not +suiting her while in a recumbent position, and retired to a seat at one +end of the carriage. As we neared Columbus, papa became very restless, +and made a descent from over my head, declaring the heat was +intolerable. "Where," said I, "is your cloth cap?" "Oh!" he answered, "I +have thrown that away long ago; that's gone to the fishes." He said he +had so tossed himself about, that he did not think he had a button left +on his coat; things were not, however, quite so bad as this, and on +finding my couch too cold for him, I at last succeeded in making your +dear restless fidgetty papa mount up again to his own place, where, to +my comfort, and no doubt to his own also, he soon fell asleep. I got up +at five and sat by poor Thrower, and watched the lights of the rising +sun on hills, valleys, and rivers for an hour; when in came the +conductor, and thrusting his lamp into the face of the sleepers, and +giving them a shake, told them to get up, a quarter of an hour being +allowed them for breakfast. In one second the whole place was alive; +down came gentlemen without their boots, and ladies with their night +caps, and in a few minutes all were busily employed in the inn, +breakfasting. I had said we did not care about missing the first part of +the road which we had seen before; but the joint light of a brilliant +full moon and the snow on the hills, made us see the dear old Ohio and +the bold Kentucky banks as clearly, almost, as if it had been daylight, +till we retired to our beds; and, even then, I could not help lying +awake to view the glorious scene out of my cabin window. + +When we got up this morning we were entering a new country, and for many +miles went along a beautiful valley of one of the tributaries of the +Ohio. We again fell in with the Ohio at Steubenville, having traced the +tributary down to its mouth. Our road then lay along the bank of the +Ohio for about seventy miles, and anything more perfect in river scenery +it would be difficult to imagine. Many large tributaries fell into it, +the mouths of which we crossed over long bridges, and from these bridges +had long vistas up their valleys. For about thirty miles we had the bold +banks of Virginia opposite to us; but, after that, we quitted the state +of Ohio, and for forty miles the course of the river was through the +state of Pennsylvania. A number of steamboats enlivened the scene, with +their huge stern wheels making a great commotion in the water. The river +too was studded with islands, and the continuous bend, the river taking +one prolonged curve from Steubenville to Pittsburg, added greatly to the +beauty of the scene. On approaching Pittsburg we crossed the Alleghany, +which is a fine broad stream. The Monongahela, which here meets it, is a +still finer one, and the two together, after their junction, constitute +the noble river which then, for the first time, takes the name of the +Ohio, or, as it is most appropriately called by the French, "La belle +rivière"--for anything more beautiful than the seventy miles of it which +we saw to-day it would be difficult to imagine. + +We are lodged here at a very comfortable hotel, facing the Alleghany +river. The town forms a triangle, situated between this river and the +Monongahela, and after dinner, having arrived here early, we took a walk +from the hotel, across the town, until we arrived at the latter river. +The opposite bank here is of great height, and we crossed a bridge, 1500 +feet long, with the magnanimous intention of going to the top of the +hill to see the magnificent prospect which the summit is said to +afford. But our strength, and breath, and courage failed us before we +had ascended a third of the height, although there is a good carriage +road up and in good condition, from the hard frost which still prevails. +The view, however, even at that height, was very fine, although it was +greatly marred by the smoky atmosphere which hangs over the city. After +recrossing the bridge we went to the point forming the apex of the +triangle, to see the confluence of the two rivers, and, as we could from +there look up both rivers and down the Ohio, the view is very +remarkable. The town itself disappointed us; but, perhaps, we expected +more than we ought reasonably to have done from a great and dirty +manufacturing town. + +_Harrisburgh, Nov. 18th._--We started this morning by the six o'clock +train in order to see the wonderful Pennsylvania railroad by daylight. +It is the great rival of the Baltimore and Ohio railway, on which we +travelled with Mr. Tyson, and we were rather anxious to have an +opportunity of comparing the two, which, having now seen them both, we +feel competent to do. The great change which nature presents now, to +what it did when the leaves were in full foliage, may make us underrate +the beauties of the road we passed over to-day, but, notwithstanding +this, we think there can be no doubt that the Baltimore and Ohio, taken +as a whole, is by far the most picturesque and beautiful. The length of +the two roads is very nearly the same; but, while the whole of the +Baltimore and Ohio was beautiful, one side of the mountain being as much +so as the other, the first part of the road to-day, till we reached the +summit level, was very much of the same character as many other mountain +regions we have passed. For many miles the road followed the course of +the Conemaugh, crossing and recrossing the river, but without any very +striking feature. But the moment we had passed through a tunnel, 3612 +feet long, and began the descent of 2200 feet, on the eastern side of +the Alleghany chain, the scene quite baffled description. The summit +level of the Baltimore and Ohio is 500 feet higher; but the descent +occupies a distance of seventeen miles, while the descent to-day was +effected in eleven, so that, with all our partiality for the Baltimore +and Ohio, it must be confessed there is nothing on it so wonderful and +sublime as this. One curve was quite appalling, and it was rendered more +so by the slow rate at which the train moved--not more, I should think, +than at the rate of two miles an hour--certainly not nearly so fast as +we could have walked, so that we had full leisure to contemplate the +chasm into which we should have been plunged headlong had the slightest +slip of the wheels occurred. How they can ever venture to pass it at +night is quite surprising. The curve is like a horse shoe, and goes +round the face of a rock which has been cut away to make room for the +road. Another superiority in the road we travelled to-day is the much +greater height of the surrounding mountains, and the extent of the +distant views;--but the greater height of the mountains had the +attendant disadvantage of the trees being chiefly pines, instead of the +lovely forest trees, of every description, which adorned the hills +amongst which we travelled in Maryland and Virginia, by the Baltimore +and Ohio railway. + +I must, however, do justice here to the eastern side of the mountains. +For more than 100 miles we closely followed the course of the Juniata, +from its source to where it ends its career by falling, quite a +magnificent river, into the Susquehanna, about twenty-two miles above +this place. After the junction, the noble Susquehanna was our companion +for that distance, this town being situated upon it. The source of the +Juniata is seen very soon after passing Altamont, and perhaps we were +more disposed to do justice to the beauty of the river, from the happy +frame of body and mind we were in, owing to the excellent dinner we had +just partaken of at that place, consisting of roast beef, roast turkey, +apple tart, cranberry preserve, and a most superlative Charlotte +Russe--pretty good fare for an hotel in a mountain pass! No wine or +stimulants of any kind were allowed, or what the consequence might have +been on papa's restless state of mind it would be difficult to say; as +it was, I counted that he rose from his seat to look at the view from +the other side of the car, thirty times in the space of an hour and a +half, making a move, therefore, upon an average, of once in every three +minutes; and this he afterwards continued to do as often as the road +crossed the river. I foolishly, at first, partook of his locomotive +propensities, but my exhausted frame soon gave way, so that he declares +I only saw one half of its beauties, namely, the half on the side where +I was seated; but this half was ample to satisfy any reasonable mortal. +I am at a loss to imagine what our fellow-travellers could have thought +of him, as they lounged on their seats, and scarcely ever condescended +to look out of window. + +We arrived here, not the least tired with our long journey, though it +occupied twelve hours, and were so fresh afterwards, that we started +after tea, this being the great annual Thanksgiving-day, to the nearest +place of worship we could find, which turned out to be a Baptist +"Church," as it is called here, where we heard a most admirable sermon, +and felt we had reason to offer up our thanks with as much earnestness +as any one of the congregation, for having been spared to make this +journey to the Far West, and to have returned to civilised life, without +encountering a single difficulty or drawback of any kind. I may as well +state, that this Thanksgiving-day was established by the Puritans, and +is still kept up throughout the whole of the United States, its object +being to return thanks for the blessings of the year, and more +especially for the harvest. There are services in all the churches, and +we much regretted not finding out till late yesterday, that this was the +day set apart for it, for had we known this, we should not have +travelled to-day; but once on our journey, with the fear of snow +accumulating in the mountains, we were afraid of stopping on the road, +and we were very glad to be able to attend the service this evening. +There is something very beautiful, I think, in thus setting apart one +day in the year for such a purpose, and it is interesting too, as being +a relic left by the Puritans. + +_November 19th._--We are quite charmed with this place, which is a rare +exception to all the other capitals we have seen, inasmuch as more has +not been undertaken than has been carried out; in fact, it has much more +the appearance of a village than of a large city. The beauty of the +river surpasses all description. It is a mile wide, and bends gracefully +towards the direction of the mountains through the gorge from which it +issues forth in its course towards Chesapeake Bay, and here, where the +hills recede to a distance, it expands into a great width, and its face +is covered with islands. The only drawback to its being a grand river is +its shallowness, and want of adaptation, therefore, to the purpose of +navigation. There are no splendid steamboats to be seen here as on the +Ohio, which make one feel that river, at the distance of more than 2000 +miles from the sea, to be a noble highway of commerce, linking together +with a common interest distant portions of this vast continent. In the +Susquehanna, one feels that there is nothing but its beauty to admire, +but this _is_ perfect. + +Two bridges connect the town with the opposite shore, each of them being +about a mile long. The weather is so piercingly cold, that we did not +venture across, but we took a long walk up the banks, of the river. The +town of Harrisburgh is very small, consisting of only three or four +streets parallel to the river, intersected by about a dozen others at +right angles to it. The centre one of these is a fine broad street, +closed in at the further end by the Capitol. This is a handsome, but +unpretending building of red brick, adorned by a portico, and, as usual, +surmounted by a dome. On entering at the top of a flight of stairs, +there is a circular area, covered in by the dome. Out of this, on one +side, is a very neat Senate House, and on the opposite side is the House +of Representatives. The State library, a very good one, is upstairs. The +flight of stairs up to this, which is continued up to the dome, is wide +and handsome, and of such easy ascent, that I ventured up to the top, in +order to take a bird's-eye view of the scenery we so much enjoyed below. +We were very well repaid for the trouble, especially as the gallery was +glazed, so that we could see the view without being exposed to the +cutting wind which was blowing outside. + +The houses here are generally of brick, painted a deep red colour, +which, not being in too great masses, and picked out with a good deal of +white, has a very good effect. Some few houses, however, especially +towards the outskirts of the town, were of wood, painted white. We +yesterday passed many villages and towns of these pretty houses, but +with the snow lying around them, scarcely whiter than the houses +themselves, they had a very chilly appearance, and looked far less +tempting than the houses of this description in New England when we +first saw them, each in its pretty clean lawn, and surrounded by a +lovely foliage. To return to this town--and, as a climax to its +perfection, it has, out and out, the most comfortable hotel we have seen +in America. It is quite a bijou, with a very pretty façade, and, being +new last year, everything is in the best style. The ground floor, as is +generally the case in this country, consists, like the Hôtel du Louvre +in Paris, of good shops, which gives a gayer appearance to the whole +than if it were one mass of dwelling rooms. We find it so comfortable +that, instead of going on this afternoon to Philadelphia, we mean to +remain here to-night, and to go on to-morrow to New York. + +_New York, Nov. 22nd._--We took one more walk at Harrisburgh, before +starting on Saturday. The morning was lovely, and from the hill above +the town, which we had time to reach, the view was very beautiful. But, +of all the picturesque things that I have lately seen, I think the scene +which presented itself this morning, when I opened our bedroom shutters +at six o'clock, was the most striking. The night, on which I had looked +out before going to bed, was clear and most beautiful; but a few stars +now only remained as the day had begun to dawn, and the east was +reddened by the approaching sunrise. Below the window was a very large +market-place, lighted up and crowded with buyers and sellers. The women +all had on the usual bonnet worn by the lower classes in this +country,--a sun-bonnet, made of coloured cotton, with a very deep +curtain hanging down the back. They wore besides warm cloaks and +coloured shawls, and the men large wide-awakes. I have already described +the brilliantly red houses, and the day being sufficiently advanced to +bring out the colour very conspicuously, I think I never saw a prettier +or busier scene, nor one which I could have wished more to have drawn, +but there was no time even to attempt it. + +After leaving Harrisburgh our road lay for some miles along the course +of the Susquehanna, and papa, who had bought a copy of Gertrude of +Wyoming, made me read it aloud to him, to the great astonishment of our +fellow-travellers and at the expense of my lungs, the noise of a railway +carriage in America not being much suited for such an occupation. The +river presented a succession of rich scenery, being most picturesquely +studded with islands. We were quite sorry to take leave of it; but after +these few miles of great beauty, the road made a dash across the country +to Philadelphia. Papa, during the whole of the morning, had been most +wonderfully obtuse in his geography, and was altogether perplexed when, +before reaching Philadelphia, we came to the margin of the river we had +to cross to reach that town. He had been quite mystified all the morning +at Harrisburg, and at fault as to the direction in which the river was +running, and as to whether the streets we were in were at right angles +or parallel to it. This state of confusion became still worse when we +got into the carriage, as he had miscalculated on which side, after +leaving the town, we should first see the river, and had placed me on +the left side of the car, when it suddenly appeared, in all its glory, +on the right. He almost lost his temper, we all know how irritable he +_can_ become, and exclaimed impatiently,--"Well, are we now on this side +of the river or the other?" but his puzzle at Philadelphia was from the +river which we then came upon, being the Schuylkill, while he thought +we had got, in some mysterious way, to the Delaware, on the _west_ bank +of which the town is situated, as well as on the _east_ of the +Schuylkill. The discovery of the river it really was of course solved +the puzzle; but for a long time he insisted that the steamboat we were +to embark upon, later in the day, on the Delaware, must be the one we +now saw, and it was all the passengers could do to persuade him to sit +still. He exclaimed, "But why not stay on this side, instead of crossing +the river to cross back again to take the cars?" It was altogether a +ludicrous state of confusion that poor Papa was in; but it ended, not +only in our crossing the river, but in our traversing the whole town of +Philadelphia, at its very centre, in the railway cars, going through +beautiful streets and squares; and, as we went at a slow pace, we had a +capital view of the shops and of the town, which was looking very clean +and brilliant, the day being fine and frosty. + +We made no stay at Philadelphia, but at length taking the cars on the +east side of the Delaware, we proceeded in them to South Amboy; where, +embarking again, we had a fine run of twenty-four miles between Staten +Island and the coast of New Jersey, and reached this place in time for +dinner. We regretted thus turning our backs on Philadelphia, and +Baltimore, and Washington, without seeing more of them; but the time we +have spent in the west has exceeded what we had counted on this part of +our journey occupying, and we are anxious to get home to you all. + +On our railway and on the steamer, we had with us a body of the firemen +of Philadelphia, who were on their way to pay to their brother-firemen +here one of those complimentary visits we have spoken of. There was loud +cheering from their cars as we left Philadelphia, and as we passed +through the different towns on the road, which was well responded to by +the bystanders who had collected to witness the sight. The men were +dressed in a most picturesque uniform, and had a good brass band, which +played during the whole time that we were on board the steamer. On +landing, there were bonfires on the quay, and rockets let off in honour +of their arrival; but, though the crowd was great, we had not the +slightest difficulty in landing, for all these matters are carried on +with the greatest order in this country, which is the more remarkable, +as the people have very excitable natures. Late at night, when we were +going to bed, a company of firemen crossed this street with lights and +torches, with a band playing, and dragging a fire-engine covered with +lamps; forming quite a moving blaze of light. + +We yesterday spent our first Sunday in New York, having hitherto been +always away on that day; and we heard a wonderfully impressive and +admirable sermon from Dr. Tyng. The church in which he preached was of +very large dimensions, but his voice penetrated it throughout; he stood +on a small platform instead of a pulpit, with a low desk in front, so +that his whole figure could be seen. He had a good deal of action, but +it was in very good taste, and the matter of his sermon was beyond all +praise. The text was from the latter part of Col. i. 17, "And by Him all +things consist." In the afternoon we heard a good, but not so striking a +sermon, from Dr. Bedell; and it was suggested to us to go in the evening +to the Opera-house to hear a great Presbyterian preacher, Mr. Alexander; +but this we did not feel disposed to do. The Opera-house is being made +use of, as our Exeter Hall is, for Special Services. + +I think I may as well fill up the rest of this sheet by describing the +arrangements of American hotels. There are frequently two entrances, one +for ladies and the other for gentlemen. That for the ladies leads by a +private staircase to the ladies' drawing-room; and the gentlemen's +entrance opens upon what is called the office. Whether there are +separate entrances or not, the gentleman is at once conducted to the +office, which is usually crowded with spitters and smokers; and there he +enters his name in the travellers' book. This done, the waiter shows him +to the drawing-room, where the lady has been requested, in the meantime, +to wait, and they are then taken, often through long and wide passages, +to their bedrooms. A private drawing-room may be had by paying extra for +it; but the custom is to do without one, and to make use of the ladies' +drawing-room, which is always a pretty room, and often a very handsome +one. In it are invariably to be found a piano, at which the ladies +frequently perpetrate most dreadful music; a marble table, in the centre +of which always stand a silver tray and silver tankard and goblets +containing iced water, a rocking chair, besides other easy-chairs and +sofas, and a Bible. It is a rare thing not to find a Bible, the gift of +a Society, in every bedroom and drawing-room in the hotel. The bedrooms +never have bed-curtains, and sometimes no window-curtains; but the +windows usually have Venetian or solid shutters. + +The dining-hall is a spacious apartment, often 80 or sometimes 100 feet +long, and in some large hotels there are two of these, one used for +railway travellers, and the other for the regular guests. The meals are +always at a _table-d'hôte_, with printed bills of fare; the dishes are +not handed round, as in Germany, but the guests are required to look at +the bill of fare and name their dishes, which does not seem a good plan, +as one's inclination is always to see how the dish looks before ordering +it. Everything comes as soon as asked for, and there is a great choice +of dishes. There is very little wine drunk at table, but to every hotel +there is appended a bar, where, we are told, the gentlemen make amends +for their moderation at table by discussing gin sling, sherry cobbler, +&c.; but of course I know nothing of this, excepting from hearsay. The +utmost extent of Papa's excesses on the rare occasions when he went into +these bars, was to get a glass of Saratoga water; but he has failed to +give me any description of what he saw. The breakfasts are going on +usually from seven till nine. The general dinner-hour is one; but there +is sometimes a choice of two hours, one and three. Tea, consisting of +tea, coffee, and sweet cakes and preserves, takes place at six; and +there is a cold meat supper at nine. Meals are charged extra if taken in +private. It is a good plan in travelling never to reserve oneself at +the end of the day's journey for the hotel dinner, as there is a chance +of arriving after it is over, when the alternative is to go without; the +railway dinners are quite as good, find often better, than those at the +hotel. The use of the ladies' drawing-room is restricted to ladies and +gentlemen accompanying them; no single gentleman, is allowed to sit in +it unless invited by a lady; but there is a separate reading-room for +gentlemen, supplied with newspapers, and there is generally another room +reserved for smoking, but the accommodation in these rooms is, in +general, very inferior to those set apart for the ladies. In the hall of +the hotel there is frequently a counter for the sale of newspapers, +books, and periodicals, and all hotels have a barber's shop, which is a +marvellous part of the establishment. The fixed charge at the hotels is +generally from 8s. to 10s. per day for each person. + +We have just settled to sail for England on the 1st December, so I shall +have only one more journal letter to write to you, and shall be myself +the bearer of it. + +FOOTNOTE: + +[13] The account referred to was written as far back as 1839, and is so +much more accurate a description of the Falls, and of the canal, than +that given in the Railway Guide, that I must here extract it. + +"The falls of the Ohio are occasioned by an irregular ledge of rock +stretching across the river. They are only perceptible at low water, the +whole descent being but twenty-two feet, while the difference of level +between the highest and lowest stages of the water is about sixty feet. +When the river is full, they present, therefore, no serious obstruction +to the navigation. To obviate the inconvenience, however, at low water, +a canal, called the Louisville and Portland Canal, has been constructed +round the falls, which is deserving of notice, as being, perhaps, the +most important work of the kind ever undertaken. The cross section of +the canal is 200 feet at the top of the bank, 50 feet at the bottom, and +42 feet deep, making its capacity about fifteen times greater than that +contemplated for the Erie Canal after its enlargement is completed: its +sides are sloping and paved with stone. The guard lock contains 21,775 +perches of masonry, being equal to that of fifteen locks on the New York +Canals; and three others contain 12,300 perches. This canal is capable +of admitting steamboats of the largest class. It is scarcely two miles +in length; but, considering the quantity of mason work, and the +difficulty of excavating earth and rock from so great a depth, together +with the contingencies attending its construction, from the fluctuations +in the depth of the river, it is probably no over-statement when it is +said, that the work in it is equal to that of seventy or seventy-five +miles of an ordinary canal." + + + + +LETTER XIII. + + + NEW YORK--ASTOR LIBRARY.--COOPER INSTITUTE.--BIBLE HOUSE.--DR. + RAE--DR. TYNG.--TARRYTOWN.--ALBANY.--SLEIGHING--FINAL RETURN TO + BOSTON.--HALIFAX.--VOYAGE HOME.--CONCLUSION. + + + Albany, Nov. 27th, 1858. + +My last letter was despatched to you on the 23rd inst.;--that evening we +dined at Mr. Aspinwall's. He has a handsome house in New York, and a +large picture gallery, and as we wished to see this by daylight, we +called on him after breakfast on the following morning, and had an +opportunity of examining the pictures, many of which are very good, +especially some by early Dutch masters. + +Mr. Aspinwall afterwards took us to the Astor Library. This library was +founded by the munificence of the late Mr. Astor, a very rich merchant, +who bequeathed a large sum of money for the purpose. It is remarkably +well arranged and pretty, and capable of containing about 300,000 +volumes. Mr. Cogswell, the librarian, showed us some of the most +valuable books. He was acquainted with Papa's name, as he had bought +his book in London for the library, and appeared familiar with its +contents. He said he valued it as filling up a gap in the financial +history of America that was not supplied by any work in this country. + +Mr. Aspinwall took us afterwards to the Cooper Institute, founded by Mr. +Peter Cooper, another very eminent citizen of New York, who has done +this good deed in his lifetime. He happened to be there, and as Mr. +Aspinwall introduced us to him, he showed us round the building himself. +He is a rich ironmonger, and an eccentric man. The building has cost +100,000_l._; it is intended for public lectures and for a school of +design. At the time we were there, some specimens of drawings, +penmanship, &c., by the scholars of the Free Schools in New York were +being exhibited, and were, in general, very creditable performances. We +went to the top of the building, and, the weather being remarkably clear +and fine, we had a good view of the town and of the surrounding country. +Anything like country, however, can only be seen on one side across the +Hudson, although, on the opposite side of New York Bay, Staten Island +can be seen stretching "right away" to the south; but the wonderful +sight is the immense city itself, extending for miles in a northern +direction. + +We rather crowded into this last day all the sights that we had hitherto +omitted to see at New York; for we went also to the Bible House, a very +large building near the Cooper Institute. In this Bible House not only +are copies of the Bible sold, as in our corresponding institution in +London, but the whole process of printing, making up, and binding the +Bible is carried on. The number of Bibles and Testaments issued by the +establishment is very great, amounting, during the last year, to +712,045. During that period there were 250,000 Bibles printed and +381,000 Testaments, besides 500 books for the blind printed in raised +types, making a total of 631,500 volumes; and this, owing to a scarcity +of funds, arising out of the late pecuniary pressure, is a decrease from +the year before of 110,000 volumes, so that it was from the store in +hand that the excess of the volumes issued above the number printed was +taken. These Bibles and Testaments are in every language, and in every +form and size. The machinery is worked by steam, and the immense +building is warmed from the same source. Some idea of its extent may be +conceived by the fact that there are twelve miles of pipes used in this +warming process.[14] + +After this hard day's work we dined at Mr. Russell's, to meet Dr. Rae, +the Arctic traveller, and in the evening we went to the Geographical +Society to hear a lecture on his last northern expedition, when he +gained all the information known respecting poor Sir John Franklin, in +search of whom he had been sent by the British Government. He showed us +many relics of that unfortunate party, consisting of spoons, +watch-cases, &c.; the lecture was very interesting, especially with +regard to the origin and transportation of boulders. He produced an +enormous head of a deer, which had a curious horn in front between the +two side ones; this is a common appendage to the antlers of the deer of +that region. He told us an amusing anecdote of his having been present +when Professor Owen was lecturing on this strange appearance, and +described the wisdom of this provision, to enable the animal to clear +its way in the snow in search of its food below it; but Dr. Rae was able +entirely to overset this theory, by stating that the whole horny +appendages of this deer are always shed before any snow makes its +appearance on the ground. + +At dinner we met Mr. Rutherford, who begged us to go after the lecture +to see his observatory, in which, he said, he had the best and largest +telescope in America, not excepting the one at Washington; we went +therefore to see it, though the lecture was not over till half-past ten, +and were repaid by a sight of Jupiter, and his belts and satellites: but +though the telescope was larger than the one at Washington, being of the +same focal length, and having an object glass nearly two inches wider, +it did not strike us as being so clear and good an instrument. It is +undoubtedly, however, a very fine one, and entirely of American make. +Much as we have had to record this day, there was more jumbled into it; +but instead of going to see the last sight I have to record, it obtruded +itself upon us at every turn. This was a military procession, flags +flying, &c., to commemorate the evacuation of the town of New York by +the British, after the first war of Independence. A great dinner is +always given on this day by the members of the Order of Cincinnati, and +Papa was asked to go to it, but our engagement to Mr. Russell prevented +his accepting the invitation. + +I think the only further thing of interest which I have to record about +our visit this time to New York, was our calling on Dr. Tyng; he is a +most interesting person, and talked much about revivals and slavery. He +said there was undoubtedly a greater degree of serious feeling gradually +spreading in New York, especially among the artisans and labouring +classes; but he could see nothing of that work of the Spirit on the +large scale which others speak of, and he thinks the nature and extent +of the revivals have been over-estimated. + +With regard to slavery, Dr. Tyng is a very good judge, as, for the first +six years of his ministry, he had a considerable parish in the slave +state of Maryland, extending over a large tract of plantation lands, +cultivated entirely by slaves. The slave population in this parish was +about 8000, and he says the treatment of the slaves was almost all that +could be desired for their temporal comfort, as far as good clothing, +good food, and kind treatment went, and he had known but very few cases +of slaves being ill-treated or even flogged during his six years' +residence there: still no one can condemn more strongly than he does the +whole system, as lowering and degrading the moral tone, both of the +white and the black population. + +As I shall probably have no occasion to allude again to slavery, as the +rest of our short stay on this continent will now be among the free +states, I may say I have seen nothing to lessen, and everything to +confirm, the strong impression I have always entertained respecting it. +Besides what we have seen, we have read as much as we could on the +subject, and must record a little book called "Aunt Sally, or the Cross +the Way to Freedom," as being the most faithful account of the evils of +slavery we have met with. It is the story of a female slave's life, and +is said to be strictly true and devoid of all exaggeration, and it is a +most touching account of the power of religion in her case, in upholding +her through a long life of trials and degradation.[15] + +On Friday, the 26th instant, we took our final leave of New York. We +left it by the Hudson River Railway, the same by which we went to West +Point two days after our arrival in America, and it was curious to +contrast our feelings on getting into the cars now with those which we +experienced when we first set our foot into them; we thought at first +that we never could encounter a long journey in them, and dreaded all +sorts of disasters. Yet now, independently of steamboat travelling, we +have travelled altogether in railways over more than 5500 miles, and it +is somewhat singular that in the great number of separate journeys we +have taken, we have only on one occasion been late on arriving at our +destination, which was on reaching Chicago. The train was then two hours +late in a journey of 281 miles, and that not owing to any accident, but +solely to the slippery state of the rails, after a heavy rain, which +rendered caution necessary. The only hitch from accident (if it was +one), was for five minutes at Rome, on the New York Central Railway, +when we were delayed for that time, on account of what William told us +was "something wrong with the engine." We have only 200 miles left to +travel between this and Boston, and we have great reason to be thankful +for having performed so long a journey not only in perfect safety, but +without any anxiety, and scarcely any fatigue.[16] + +One marked improvement in the eastern over the western railways, is in +the gentlemen's special accomplishment of spitting being much less +active in the east, owing to their chewing tobacco less vigorously. In +the west it is dreadful to see and hear how this habit goes on during +the whole day, not out of window, but on the floors of the cars and +omnibuses, and all over the hall and passages of the hotels. + +But to return to our journey from New York on the Hudson. It was a +beautiful day, and the scenery quite lovely. We had only twenty-seven +miles to go to Mr. Bartlett's, to whom we had brought letters from +England, and who asked us to pass the first night of our journey at his +country place near Tarrytown. On arriving at the station there, he drove +us to his house, which stands on an eminence three miles higher up the +river. The river here is rather more than three miles in width, but the +atmosphere was so clear that every house on the opposite bank could be +distinctly seen, and the opposite shore is so high, that we could hardly +imagine the river to be as wide as it is. The view from the house is +perfectly magnificent. The eye takes in a distance of thirty miles up +and down the river, there being here a long reach, having almost the +appearance of a lake, the river above and below not being more than from +a mile to a mile and a half in width. Immediately opposite Tarrytown is +the town of Nyach, which is connected with Tarrytown by a steam ferry. +In passing from Tarrytown to Mr. Bartlett's house, we drove through the +Sleepy Hollow, the scene of one of Washington Irving's tales, and passed +the old Dutch church, which is mentioned by him in the legend, as the +place of sanctuary where Ichabod took refuge. In fact, the whole scenery +is classic ground here; and Mr. Irving himself, who has rendered it so, +lives only two miles off, at Sunnyside. + +After giving us some luncheon, Mr. Bartlett took Papa a walk up a high +hill behind the house, the view from which he describes as perfectly +enchanting; but it would be difficult for anything to surpass the one +seen from the house, combining every possible feature of wood, hill, +dale, and water; but if I cannot describe this, it would be equally +impossible to describe the perfect taste and beauty of the house itself. +The chief features are the carving of the wooden staircase, the +chimney-pieces in the library and dining-room, and of the book-cases in +the library. The carpet of the drawing-room was Aubusson tapestry, and +the furniture was entirely from French patterns or imported from Paris, +where it was made on purpose for the different rooms; every part of the +house, including the bed-rooms, was filled with choice engravings. One +bed-room specially struck us, the paper and chintz furniture of which +were exactly of the same pattern of roses on a white ground, and the +effect was beautiful; but there were many others in equally good taste, +all with French papers. Hot and cold water were laid on in the rooms, +and hot air likewise, though not so as to be in the least oppressive. +Mrs. Bartlett's bed-room and dressing-room were the climax of all. The +woodwork throughout the house was varied in every story: there was black +oak, red pine, and white pine, all of very fine grain; the hall was +covered with encaustic tiles from Minton's; the offices were in keeping, +dairy, laundry, &c. Papa went over the farm and gardens, which were in +the same exquisite order; and there were greenhouses and hothouses, +which looked at a distance like a little Crystal Palace. Mrs. Bartlett +is a very amiable person, but a great invalid, and seldom leaves her +room. + +This morning we proceeded on our way to this place; before getting into +the train at twelve o'clock, we drove over to Sunnyside; but, alas! Mr. +Irving was out, and we could only walk about his grounds, and peep in at +his study window. As this brought us to Tarrytown sooner than we counted +upon, I had time to climb up one of the hills, and much enjoyed the +view, although it was not so extensive as the one Papa saw yesterday. As +we got northward, on our way to Albany, the snow, which had almost +disappeared at Tarrytown, became very deep, the land was covered with a +white garment, and the river partially with a coating of ice. At Hudson, +opposite the Catskill mountains, we, for the first time, saw sledging, +sledges having there taken the place of the usual carriages which come +to meet the train. There were many carts, also, and an omnibus, all on +sledges, and the whole had a singularly wintry appearance. + +We are housed again at the Delavan House, and find the twenty-four +damsels have donned long sleeves to their gowns, which are now of dark +cotton instead of pink; but their hoops are as large, and their faces as +impudent as ever, forcing Papa to restrain his grin, particularly when +they stand in double file on each side of the table, all in the same +pose, with their arms crossed before them, when we enter the +dining-room. + +We are glad to find ourselves again here, for this hotel bears away the +palm from all others we have seen in America, with the exception of that +at Harrisburgh, which can alone compare with it in the general beauty of +the rooms. To describe, for instance, the bedroom in which we are now +sitting. The room is about twenty-four feet square, having two large +windows looking to the street, and a mirror and handsome marble +consol-table between them. The windows have very handsome gilt cornices, +with tamboured muslin curtains, and others of a blue and gold coloured +damask; there are two large sofas, and four small chairs of dark walnut +wood, carved and covered with the same material as the curtains, and a +smaller chair with a tapestry seat--also a large rocking-chair covered +with Utrecht velvet. The bed is of prettily carved black walnut, the +wash-hand-stand the same, with marble slab; there is a very handsome +Brussels carpet, a large round table, at which I am now writing, a very +handsome bronze and ormolu lustre, with six gaslights, and two ormolu +candelabra on the chimney-piece. The chimney-piece is of white marble, +and over it is a most gorgeously carved mirror. The room is about +fourteen feet high; the ceiling slightly alcoved and painted in +medallions of flowers on a blue ground, with a great deal of very well +painted and gilt moulding, which Papa at first thought was really in +relief. The paper is a white ground, with a gold pattern, and a coloured +border above, and below, and at the angles of the room; the door leads +into a very fine wide passage, and there are two others, each leading +into an adjoining room, all painted pure white; so is the +skirting-board; and the door handles are white porcelain. Thrower's +room, next ours, is much the same, but of about half the size. There are +Venetian blinds to the windows, not made to draw up, but folding like +shutters, and divided into several small panels. Our two windows look +into a broad cheerful street, in which the snow is lying deep, and the +whole scene is enlivened, every now and then, by the sleighs and their +merry bells as they pass along. + +_Nov. 29th._--Yesterday the morning was very brilliant. Being desirous +of seeing a Shaker village, and the nature of their service, we had +ordered a vehicle over night to be ready at nine o'clock, when a sleigh +made its appearance at the door, with skins of fur and every appliance +to keep us warm. These sleighs are most elegant machines, and this one +had a hood, though this is not a common appendage. It was drawn by a +pair of horses, the driver standing in front. The road was, at first, up +a steep hill, but the horses seemed as if they had no weight behind +them. On reaching the high land the view, looking back upon the river, +was very pretty. The whole country was deeply covered with snow, and in +many places, where it had drifted, it had the appearance of large waves, +of which the crests curled gracefully over, and looked as if they had +been frozen in the act of curling: some of these crests or waves were +four or five feet above the level of the road. We were about an hour +reaching the village, and were much disappointed to find the gate at the +entrance closed, and a painted board hung on it, to announce there would +be no meeting that day. Nothing could exceed the apparent order and +decorum of the place; but we could not effect a closer approach, though +our driver tried hard to gain admittance for us. We therefore returned +to Albany, but took a different road home, and enjoyed our sleighing +much; and the cheerful sound of the bells round our horses' necks was +quite enlivening; still, in spite of our wraps, we must confess that we +were not sorry when it was over. On our return to the town we entered a +church and heard the end of a sermon. It was a large Baptist church; but +we were rather late, for we were told, by a boy at the door, that "the +text had been on about forty minutes;" but, to judge from the sample we +had of the discourse, we were probably no great losers. The church was a +handsome building, but we were chiefly attracted by the following +notice, in large letters, at the entrance. + + + UNION PRAYER MEETING DAILY IN THIS CHURCH, + + FROM TWELVE TO ONE O'CLOCK. + + "Come in, if only for a few moments; all are welcome." + + +After leaving the church we walked towards the Capitol, which is +situated at the end of a very wide street, State Street, and, as this +street rises by a tolerably steep ascent from the river, there is an +extensive view over the river and the adjacent country from the plateau +on which the Capitol stands. There are two very handsome buildings +adjoining, of fine white stone, with Greek porticoes; but the Capitol +itself, which is a considerably older building than the others, is of +red brick. We had not time to explore further, for a heavy snow storm +came on, which lasted for the rest of the day. + +_Boston, Nov. 30th._--Yesterday morning we started early for this +place, and the journey occupied the whole day. We had travelled this +road before when the country was rich in its summer clothing, and the +contrast was very strange as we saw it to-day. The heavy fall of snow +the night before had covered not only the ground but the trees of the +forests and the ponds and lakes, which were all frozen over. The +Connecticut, however, glided calmly along, though it too was frozen over +above the places where falls in the river obstructed the current. We +passed several of these, which had a curious appearance, long and +massive icicles hanging along the whole crest of the fall, and curiously +intermingling with the water which was pouring over the rocks. The +beautiful New England villages were as white as ever, the white snow +scarcely detracting from the purity of the whiteness of the buildings. +It was a splendid day, without a cloud in the sky, and the sun shining +on the snow gave it a most brilliant and sparkling appearance. + +To-day we have been chiefly engaged in shopping; but we contrived, +besides, to see the public Library and Athenæum, as well as the Hospital +and Prison, which Papa went over with Lord Radstock when we were first +here, both of which fully bear out the account he gave me of them. We +feel quite sad to think that this is our last day in America, for we +have enjoyed ourselves much; Papa has, indeed, up till late this +evening, been engaged in business; but you are not to suppose from this +that he has never had any relaxation; I am most thankful to say, on the +contrary, that much of our time has been a holiday, and I trust his +health has much benefited by our travels. But, whatever our regrets may +be at leaving this interesting country, I need scarcely say with what +delight we look forward to a return home to our dear children, where, I +trust, a fortnight hence, to find you all well and prospering. We +embark, at nine to-morrow morning, in the "Canada" for Liverpool, where +I shall hope to add a few lines to this on landing. + +_December 11th, off Cape Clear._--As it may be late to-morrow before we +land, and we may not have time to write from Liverpool, I shall close +this now, or at all events only add a line from that place. Barring a +severe gale of wind, our voyage has been tolerably prosperous since we +left Halifax; but I must not anticipate, as I wish to say a little more +about Boston, for I omitted in my last day's Journal to mention the +admirable arrangement on the Western Railway, by which we came from +Albany, as regards checking the luggage. This practice, as I have +already told you, is universal, but, generally speaking, one of the +_employés_ of the Packet Express Company takes charge of the checks +before the passengers leave the cars, and for a trifling charge the +luggage is delivered at any hotel the passenger may direct; where this +is not done, the checks are usually given to the conductor of the +omnibus, of which almost every hotel sends its own to the station. But +this latter practice leads to much noise, each conductor shouting out +the name of his hotel, as is done at Boulogne and elsewhere on the +arrival of the packets. On gliding into the spacious station at Boston +we were prepared to encounter this struggle, our checks not having been +given up in the car; but, to our surprise, there was a total absence of +this noisy scene, and on looking out we saw along the platform a range +of beautiful gothic recesses, over each of which was written the name of +an hotel, and we had only to walk along till we came to "Tremont House," +when, without a word passing, we slipped into the hand of a man +stationed within, the checks for our baggage, he simply indicating "No. +2" as the omnibus we were to get into. Walking to the end of the +platform, we found a complete row of omnibuses, all consecutively +numbered, and marched in silence to No. 2, which in a minute or two +drove off with us and the other passengers destined for the Tremont +House; we found this, as before, a very comfortable hotel, and our +luggage was there within a few minutes after our arrival. + +Before quitting the subject of the American hotels, we ought to state +that, from what we hear, unhappy single gentlemen meet with a very +different fate to that of persons travelling in company with ladies. One +poor friend greatly bewailed his lot after he had left his wife at +Toronto; on presenting himself at the "office" of the hotel he used to +be eyed most suspiciously, especially when they saw his rough drab +coloured travelling dress, for the criterion of a genteel American is a +black coat and velvet collar. He was accordingly sent in general to a +garret, and other travellers have told us the same; one on board the +steamers quite confirmed this account, and told us he considered it a +piece of great luxury when he had a gaslight in his room. He made this +remark on our reading to him the account I have given of our room in +Albany and its splendid six-light candelabra. + +But to go on with our adventures: we embarked on board the steamer at 9 +A.M. on Wednesday, the 1st December. The view of the harbour of Boston, +formed by a variety of islands, was most beautiful, in spite of the deep +snow which covered them. The day was brilliantly sunny, but intensely +cold, and it continued bitterly cold till we reached Halifax on Thursday +night. The Boston steamers always touch at that place, and the liability +to detention by fogs in making the harbour, renders this passage often a +disagreeable one in the foggy season; but when the weather is as cold as +now, it is invariably clear, and we steered up the beautiful harbour of +Halifax with no interruption but that caused by the closing in of the +day, rendering it necessary to slacken our speed as we neared the town. +It was dark when we arrived, but having two hours to spare, we took a +walk, and after passing through the town-gate, saw what we could of the +place, respecting which I felt great interest, from my father having +been Chief-justice there many years; his picture by West, of which we +have a copy in D. P. H. by West himself, is at the Court House; but of +course we could not see it so late at night; and, in fact, could only go +to one or two shops to make some purchases as memorials of the place. It +began to snow hard before we returned on board, and the cold was so +intense, though less so since the snow began, that the upper part of +the harbour above where we stopped was frozen over. + +We took Sir Fenwick Williams, of Kars, and a great many other officers, +on board at Halifax, and sailed again at midnight. Next day the intense +cold returned, and a severe north-wester made it almost impossible to +keep on deck. Every wave that dashed over us, left its traces behind in +a sheet of ice spread over the deck, and in the icicles which were +hanging along the bulwarks, and formed a fringe to the boats which were +hanging inside the ship; one poor passenger, with a splendid beard, told +us he found it quite hard and stiff, and we could have told him how much +we admired the icicles which were hanging to it. The thermometer, +however, was only at 15°, it being the wind that made it so intensely +cold. I did not get on deck, for, owing to the coating of ice, walking +on it became a service of some danger; and I did my best to keep Papa +from going up, though he often insisted on doing so, to enjoy the beauty +of the scene. The captain says that it is sometimes most trying to be on +this coast in winter, as the thermometer, instead of being 15° above +zero as it was then, is often 15° below, when the ropes and everything +become frozen. This cold lasted till Monday, when we were clear of "the +banks," and fairly launched into the wide Atlantic. The wind continued +to blow strongly from the north-west, with a considerable amount of sea, +which put an end to my even thinking of going on deck, but Papa +persevered, and every day passed many hours there, walking up and down +and enjoying it much, especially as it was daily getting warmer. I +wished much I could have accompanied him, but by this time I was +completely prostrated by sea-sickness. + +The weather, though blowy, continued very fine till Tuesday at four +o'clock, when Papa came down and told me to prepare for a gale; an +ominous black cloud had shown itself in the north-west horizon; this +would not of itself have created much sensation, had it not been +accompanied by an extraordinary fall in the barometer; it had, in fact, +been falling for twenty-four hours, for at noon on Monday it stood +rather above 30, and at midnight was as low as 29·55, which, in these +latitudes, is a great fall. But on Tuesday, at nine A.M., it had fallen +to 28·80, when it began rapidly to sink, till at half-past three it +stood at 28·40, showing a fall of more than an inch and a half since the +preceding day at noon. It seems that this is almost unprecedented, so +that when the little black cloud appeared, every sail was taken in, and +the main topmast and fore top-gallantmast lowered down on deck, and this +was not done a bit too soon, for by half-past four, it blew a hurricane. +The captain told a naval officer on board, that he had thought of +putting the ship's head towards the gale, to let it blow past, but on +further consideration, he put her right before it, though at the expense +of losing a good deal of ground, as it made us go four points out of our +course. Papa, who was on deck, said it was most magnificent to hear the +fierce wind tearing past the vessel, and to see the ship not swaying in +the least one way or another, but driving forwards with the masts +perpendicular, as if irresistibly impelled through the water, without +appearing to feel the waves. But alas, alas, this absence of motion, +which was a paradise to me, lasted but some twenty minutes, while the +fury of the blast continued. We ran before the gale for the next four +hours, when it sufficiently moderated to enable us to resume our proper +course. + +The gale continued, however, till four next morning, and such a night I +never passed. The doctor said, neither he nor any officer in the ship +could sleep, and next morning the poor stewardess and our peculiar cabin +boy mournfully deplored their fate, the former being forced to confess +that, though for years accustomed to the sea, she had been desperately +sick. In fact no one had ever known the vessel to roll before as she did +this night, and the sounds were horrible. The effect of one sea, in +particular, striking the ship was appalling, from the perfect stillness +which followed it. The vessel seemed quite to stagger under the blow and +to be paralysed by it, so that several seconds must have elapsed before +the heavy rolling recommenced. This, and the creaking and groaning of +the vessel, had something solemn about it; but some minor sounds were +neither so grand nor so philosophically borne by either Papa or myself. +One of the most persevering of these arose from my carelessness in +having forgotten to bolt the door of a cupboard which I made use of, in +our cabin, the consequence of which was that, with every lurch of the +vessel, the door gave a violent slam, and our lamp having been put out +at midnight, as it invariably was, we were in total darkness, and +without the means of ascertaining whether the irritating noise +proceeded, as we suspected, from the cupboard door, or from one of the +doors having been left open in the passage adjoining our cabin. It would +have been dangerous to have got up in the dark, and with a violent +lurching of the vessel, to discover the real cause of this wearisome +noise. I had a strong feeling of self-reproach in my own mind at having +brought such a calamity on poor Papa, when it could have been avoided if +I had been a little more careful before going to bed. On, therefore, +the noise went, for the rest of that night, with great +regularity--slam--slam--slam--defying every attempt to obtain even five +minutes of sleep. With the first gleam of dawn I plainly saw that our +own peccant door was the cause, and I was able by that time, with some +caution, to rise and secure the bolt, and thus relieve ourselves, and +probably our neighbours, from the weary sound. + +Sleep, however, on my part was, under any circumstances, out of the +question, for I was under great anxiety lest Papa should be pitched out +of his berth, as he slept in the one above mine. Before retiring for the +night I had consulted the surgeon on the subject, having heard that a +steward had been once thrown out of his berth in this vessel under +similar circumstances. The surgeon assured me that he had never heard of +such an accident, and Papa reminded me that his height would save him +from such a calamity, for the berths being only six feet long he could, +by stretching himself out to his full length, wedge himself in and hold +on by his head and heels, and so, in fact, he did; but many passed the +night on the floors in their cabin, particularly the children, who had +not the advantage of being six feet three. Next morning the surgeon said +he would not himself have slept where Papa did, and I suspect few of the +upper berths were occupied. So much for the value of a medical opinion! + +I was very sorry I could not go on deck on either of the following days, +for though the gale had abated, the wind continued sufficiently strong +to keep up a splendid sea. Papa, however, says that it was more the +force of the wind when the gale first began, than the height of the sea +that was remarkable, as the gale did not last long enough to get up a +_proper_ sea, though what that would have been I cannot imagine, as the +effects, such as they were, were sufficiently serious for me. Since +then, things have gone on prosperously, but we have only to-night come +in sight of the lights on Cape Clear. The sea mercifully is somewhat +smoother, and has allowed me to write this long story; and I am going to +bed with a fairer prospect of sleep than I have had for the last few +nights. + +_Sunday night, Sept. 12th._--The wind got up again in the night, and has +delayed us much, so that we are still outside the bar of the Mersey: +for some hours it has been doubtful whether we should land to-night in +Old England, or pass another night on board. The uncertainty of our fate +has caused an evening of singular excitement, owing to several of the +passengers going perpetually on deck and bringing down news, either that +we were in the act of crossing the bar, or that we had crossed it, or +that all this was wrong and that we were still outside. As often as it +was announced, and that with the most positive assertion, that we should +land to-night, there was great joy and glee among all the passengers, +excepting ourselves and a few others who had visions of a late Custom +House examination in a dark and dismal night with pouring rain, and a +conviction that landing before morning would not bring us to London any +sooner than doing so early to-morrow, and so we secretly hoped all the +time that we were neither on nor over the bar. Betting, as usual, began +on the subject, and the excitement was still at its height when official +information was brought to us that we neither had attempted nor meant to +attempt to cross the bar till five o'clock to-morrow morning. We have +therefore easily made up our minds to what I fear is a disappointment to +many. We trust now to have a quiet night, for we are lying-to, and are +as still as at anchor, and hope on awaking to-morrow morning, to find +ourselves in the dock at Liverpool; in which case we shall rush up by an +early train to London. + +Here, therefore, ends our Journal; but before closing it, I must add a +few lines to say what cause we have had to feel deeply thankful for all +the mercies that have followed us by land and by sea. We have travelled +a distance of nearly 6000 miles, in a country where accidents frequently +occur, both on the railways and in steam-boats, and have never for one +moment been exposed to peril, or experienced one feeling of anxiety. We +have met everywhere with great attention, kindness, and hospitality, and +have been preserved in perfect health. Besides our land and river +journeys, we have made two long voyages across the wide Atlantic, and in +the midst of a tempest, which was a very severe one, the Hand of God +protected us and preserved us from danger, and, better still, kept our +minds in peace and confidence, and in remembrance that He who ruleth the +waves, could guide and succour us in every time of need, so that even I +felt no fear; Papa has had more experience of storms at sea, and was +less likely to feel any, but his confidence, too, was in knowing that we +were under Divine protection, and that our part was to TRUST; and in +this we had our reward. + +In thus enumerating the many subjects of thankfulness during our absence +from home, I must reckon as one of the chief of our blessings, the +comfort we have experienced in so constantly receiving the very best +accounts of you all; and when we think of the many thousands of miles +that have separated us, we may indeed feel full of gratitude that, +neither on one side of the ocean nor the other, have we had any reason +for anxiety concerning each other. In a few hours more, we shall, I +trust, have the joy and gladness of seeing all your dear faces again, +and be rejoicing together over our safe return from our interesting and +delightful expedition to the NEW WORLD. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[14] The issues of the British and Foreign Bible Society during the same +period were 1,517,858; but the circulation of the American Bible Society +is almost entirely limited to the American continent, and for their +foreign Missions, while a large portion of ours goes to supply the +Colonies. + +[15] Aunt Sally is a real person still living at Detroit on Lake +Michigan, with her son, the Rev. Isaac Williams, who is the minister +there of the Methodist church. + +[16] We must admit that our experience differs greatly from that of +many; and, looking at the statistics of railway travelling, accidents do +occur with frightful frequency. In a report recently published by the +Philadelphia and Reading Railway, the accidents which occurred on that +line alone in 1855, amounted to no less than 179 in a year, and this on +a line where there is no great press of traffic. In these accidents, 619 +cars were broken, 29 people killed, and 7 wounded. Things are since a +little improved; as, last year, 1858, there were only 26 cases of killed +and wounded, and, the Report adds, as if consolatory to the feelings of +the natives, "of these 18 were strangers." + + +THE END. + + +LONDON +PRINTED BY SPOTTISWOODE AND CO. +NEW-STREET SQUARE. + + * * * * * + +A CATALOGUE + +OF + +NEW WORKS IN GENERAL LITERATURE + +PUBLISHED BY + +LONGMAN, BROWN, GREEN, LONGMANS, AND ROBERTS + +39 PATERNOSTER ROW, LONDON. + + * * * * * + +CLASSIFIED INDEX + + ++Agriculture and Rural Affairs.+ + +Bayldon on Valuing Rents, &c. 5 +Cecil's Stud Farm 8 +Hoskyns's Talpa 11 +Loudon's Agriculture 14 +Low's Elements of Agriculture 14 +Morton on Landed Estates 17 + + ++Arts, Manufactures, and Architecture.+ + +Bourne on the Screw Propeller 6 +Brande's Dictionary of Science, &c. 6 + " Organic Chemistry 6 +Chevreul on Colour 8 +Cresy's Civil Engineering 8 +Fairbairn's Information for Engineers 9 +Gwilt's Encyclopædia of Architecture 10 +Harford's Plates from M. Angelo 10 +Humphreys's _Parables_ Illuminated 12 +Jameson's Sacred and Legendary Art 12, 13 + " Commonplace-Book 13 +Konig's Pictorial Life of Luther 10 +Loudon's Rural Architecture 14 +Mac Dougall's Campaigns of Hannibal 15 + " Theory of War 15 +Moseley's Engineering 17 +Piesse's Art of Perfumery 18 +Richardson's Art of Horsemanship 19 +Scoffern on Projectiles, &c. 20 +Scrivenor on the Iron Trade 20 +Steam Engine, by the Artisan Club 6 +Ure's Dictionary of Arts, &c. 23 + + ++Biography.+ + +Arago's Lives of Scientific Men 5 +Brialmont's Wellington 6 +Bunsen's Hippolytus 7 +Crosse's (Andrew) Memorials 9 +Gleig's Essays 10 +Green's Princesses of England 10 +Harford's Life of Michael Angelo 10 +Lardner's Cabinet Cyclopædia 13 +Maunder's Biographical Treasury 15 +Mountain's (Col.) Memoirs 17 +Parry's (Admiral) Memoirs 18 +Russell's Memoirs of Moore 16 + " (Dr.) Life of Mezzofanti 20 +SchimmelPenninck's (Mrs.) Life 20 +Southey's Life of Wesley 21 + " Life and Correspondence 21 +Stephen's Ecclesiastical Biography 22 +Strickland's Queens of England 22 +Sydney Smith's Memoirs 21 +Symonds's (Admiral) Memoirs 22 +Taylor's Loyola 22 + " Wesley 22 +Uwins's Memoirs and Letters 23 +Waterton's Autobiography and Essays 34 + + ++Books of General Utility.+ + +Acton's Bread-Book 5 + " Cookery-Book 5 +Black's Treatise on Brewing 6 +Cabinet Gazetteer 7 + " Lawyer 7 +Cust's Invalid's Own Book 9 +Gilbart's Logic for the Million 10 +Hints on Etiquette 11 +How to Nurse Sick Children 12 +Hudson's Executor's Guide 12 + " on Making Wills 12 +Kesteven's Domestic Medicine 13 +Lardner's Cabinet Cyclopædia 13 +Loudon's Lady's Country Companion 14 +Maunder's Treasury of Knowledge 15 + " Biographical Treasury 15 + " Geographical Treasury 16 + " Scientific Treasury 15 + " Treasury of History 16 + " Natural History 16 +Piesse's Art of Perfumery 18 +Pocket and the Stud 10 +Pycroft's English Reading 19 +Reece's Medical Guide 19 +Rich's Companion to Latin Dictionary 19 +Richardson's Art of Horsemanship 19 +Riddle's Latin Dictionaries 19 +Roget's English Thesaurus 20 +Rowton's Debater 20 +Short Whist 21 +Thomson's Interest Tables 22 +Webster's Domestic Economy 24 +West on Children's Diseases 24 +Willich's Popular Tables 24 +Wilmot's Blackstone 24 + + ++Botany and Gardening.+ + +Hassall's British Freshwater Algæ 11 +Hooker's British Flora 11 + " Guide to Kew Gardens 11 + " " " Kew Museum 11 +Lindley's Introduction to Botany 14 + " Theory of Horticulture 14 +Loudon's Hortus Britannicus 14 + " Amateur Gardener 14 + " Trees and Shrubs 14 + " Gardening 14 + " Plants 14 +Pereira's Materia Medica 18 +Rivers's Rose Amateur's Guide 19 +Wilson's British Mosses 24 + + ++Chronology.+ + +Blair's Chronological Tables 6 +Brewer's Historical Atlas 6 +Bunsen's Ancient Egypt 7 +Calendars of English State Papers 7 +Haydn's Beatson's Index 11 +Jaquemet's Chronology 13 + " Abridged Chronology 13 + + ++Commerce and Mercantile Affairs.+ + +Gilbart's Treatise on Banking 10 +Lorimer's Young Master Mariner 14 +Macleod's Banking 15 +M'Culloch's Commerce and Navigation 15 +Murray on French Finance 18 +Scrivenor on the Iron Trade 20 +Thomson's Interest Tables 22 +Tooke's History of Prices 22 + + ++Criticism, History, and Memoirs.+ + +Blair's Chron. and Historical Tables 6 +Brewer's Historical Atlas 6 +Bunsen's Ancient Egypt 7 + " Hippolytus 7 +Calendars of English State Papers 7 +Capgrave's Illustrious Henries 8 +Chapman's Gustavus Adolphus 8 +Chronicles and Memorials of England 8 +Connolly's Sappers and Miners 8 +Conybeare and Howson's St. Paul 8 +Crowe's History of France 9 +Fischer's Francis Bacon 9 +Gleig's Essays 10 +Gurney's Historical Sketches 10 +Hayward's Essays 11 +Herschel's Essays and Addresses 11 +Jeffrey's (Lord) Contributions 13 +Kemble's Anglo-Saxons 13 +Lardner's Cabinet Cyclopædia 13 +Macaulay's Critical and Hist. Essays 14 + " History of England 14 + " Speeches 14 +Mackintosh's Miscellaneous Works 15 + " History of England 15 +M'Culloch's Geographical Dictionary 15 +Maunder's Treasury of History 16 +Merivale's History of Rome 16 + " Roman Republic 16 +Milner's Church History 16 +Moore's (Thomas) Memoirs, &c. 16 +Mure's Greek Literature 17 +Normanby's Year of Revolution 18 +Perry's Franks 18 +Raikes's Journal 19 +Riddle's Latin Dictionaries 19 +Rogers's Essays from Edinb. Review 20 +Roget's English Thesaurus 20 +Schmitz's History of Greece 20 +Southey's Doctor 21 +Stephen's Ecclesiastical Biography 22 + " Lectures on French History 22 +Sydney Smith's Works 21 + " Lectures 21 + " Memoirs 21 +Taylor's Loyola 22 + " Wesley 22 +Thirlwall's History of Greece 22 +Thomas's Historical Notes 27 +Townsend's State Trials 22 +Turner's Anglo-Saxons 23 + " Middle Ages 23 + " Sacred History of the World 23 +Uwins's Memoirs and Letters 23 +Vehse's Austrian Court 23 +Wade's England's Greatness 24 +Young's Christ of History 24 + + ++Geography and Atlases.+ + +Brewer's Historical Atlas 6 +Butler's Geography and Atlases 7 +Cabinet Gazetteer 7 +Johnston's General Gazetteer 13 +M'Culloch's Geographical Dictionary 16 +Maunder's Treasury of Geography 16 +Murray's Encyclopædia of Geography 17 +Sharp's British Gazetteer 21 + + ++Juvenile Books.+ + +Amy Herbert 20 +Cleve Hall 20 +Earl's Daughter (The) 20 +Experience of Life 20 +Gertrude 20 +Howitt's Boy's Country Book 12 + " (Mary) Children's Year 12 +Ivors 20 +Katharine Ashton 20 +Laneton Parsonage 20 +Margaret Percival 20 +Pycroft's Collegian's Guide 19 + + ++Medicine, Surgery, &c.+ + +Brodie's Psychological Inquiries 7 +Bull's Hints to Mothers 6 + " Management of Children 6 +Copland's Dictionary of Medicine 8 +Cust's Invalid's Own Book 9 +Holland's Mental Physiology 11 + " Medical Notes and Reflections 11 +How to Nurse Sick Children 12 +Kesteven's Domestic Medicine 13 +Pereira's Materia Medica 18 +Reece's Medical Guide 19 +Richardson's Cold-water Cure 19 +Spencer's Principles of Psychology 21 +West on Diseases of Infancy 24 + + ++Miscellaneous Literature.+ + +Bacon's (Lord) Works 5 +Defence of _Eclipse of Faith_ 9 +Eclipse of Faith 9 +Greathed's Letters from Delhi 10 +Greyson's Select Correspondence 10 +Gurney's Evening Recreations 10 +Hassall's Adulterations Detected, &c. 11 +Haydn's Book of Dignities 11 +Holland's Mental Physiology 11 +Hooker's Kew Guides 11 +Howitt's Rural Life of England 12 + " Visits to Remarkable Places 12 +Jameson's Commonplace-Book 13 +Jeffrey's (Lord) Contributions 13 +Last of the Old Squires 18 +Letters of a Betrothed 13 +Macaulay's Critical and Hist. Essays 14 + " Speeches 14 +Mackintosh's Miscellaneous Works 15 +Martineau's Miscellanies 15 +Pycroft's English Reading 19 +Raikes on the Indian Revolt 19 +Rees's Siege of Lucknow 19 +Rich's Companion to Latin Dictionary 19 +Riddle's Latin Dictionaries 19 +Rowton's Debater 20 +Seaward's Narrative of his Shipwreck 20 +Sir Roger De Coverley 21 +Smith's (Rev. Sydney) Works 21 +Southey's Doctor, &c. 21 +Spencer's Essays 21 +Stephen's Essays 22 +Stow's Training System 22 +Thomson's Laws of Thought 22 +Tighe and Davis's Windsor 22 +Townsend's State Trials 22 +Yonge's English-Greek Lexicon 24 + " Latin Gradus 24 +Zumpt's Latin Grammar 24 + + ++Natural History in general.+ + +Catlow's Popular Conchology 8 +Ephemera's Book of the Salmon 9 +Garratt's Marvels of Instinct 10 +Gosse's Natural History of Jamaica 10 +Kirby and Spence's Entomology 13 +Lee's Elements of Natural History 13 +Maunder's Natural History 16 +Quatrefages' Rambles of a Naturalist 19 +Turton's Shells of the British Islands 23 +Van der Hoeven's Handbook of Zoology 23 +Waterton's Essays on Natural History 24 +Youatt's The Dog 24 + " The Horse 24 + + ++One-Volume Encyclopædias and Dictionaries.+ + +Blaine's Rural Sports 6 +Brande's Science, Literature, and Art 6 +Copland's Dictionary of Medicine 8 +Cresy's Civil Engineering 8 +Gwilt's Architecture 10 +Johnston's Geographical Dictionary 13 +Loudon's Agriculture 14 + " Rural Architecture 14 + " Gardening 14 + " Plants 14 + " Trees and Shrubs 14 +M'Culloch's Geographical Dictionary 15 + " Dictionary of Commerce 15 +Murray's Encyclopædia of Geography 17 +Sharp's British Gazetteer 21 +Ure's Dictionary of Arts, &c. 23 +Webster's Domestic Economy 24 + + ++Religious and Moral Works.+ + +Amy Herbert 20 +Bloomfield's Greek Testament 6 +Calvert's Wife's Manual 8 +Cleve Hall 20 +Conybeare and Howson's St. Paul 8 +Cotton's Instructions in Christianity 8 +Dale's Domestic Liturgy 9 +Defence of _Eclipse of Faith_ 9 +Earl's Daughter (The) 20 +Eclipse of Faith 9 +Englishman's Greek Concordance 9 + " Heb. & Chald. Concord. 9 +Experience (The) of Life 20 +Gertrude 20 +Harrison's Light of the Forge 10 +Horne's Introduction to Scriptures 11 + " Abridgment of ditto 11 +Huc's Christianity in China 12 +Humphrey's _Parables_ Illuminated 12 +Ivors, by the Author of _Amy Herbert_ 20 +Jameson's Saints and Martyrs 12 + " Monastic Legends 13 + " Legends of the Madonna 13 + " on Female Employment 13 +Jeremy Taylor's Works 13 +Katharine Ashton 21 +Konig's Pictorial Life of Luther 10 +Laneton Parsonage 20 +Letters to my Unknown Friends 13 + " on Happiness 13 +Lyra Germanica 7 +Maguire's Rome 15 +Margaret Percival 20 +Martineau's Christian Life 15 + " Hymns 15 + " Studies of Christianity 15 +Merivale's Christian Records 16 +Milner's Church of Christ 26 +Moore on the Use of the Body 26 + " " Soul and Body 26 + " 's Man and his Motives 26 +Morning Clouds 17 +Neale's Closing Scene 18 +Pattison's Earth and Word 18 +Powell's Christianity without Judaism 19 +Readings for Lent 20 + " Confirmation 20 +Riddle's Household Prayers 19 +Robinson's Lexicon to the Greek Testament 20 +Saints our Example 20 +Sermon in the Mount 20 +Sinclair's Journey of Life 21 +Smith's (Sydney) Moral Philosophy 21 + " (G.V.) Assyrian Prophecies 21 + " (G.) Wesleyan Methodism 21 + " (J.) Shipwreck of St. Paul 21 +Southey's Life of Wesley 21 +Stephen's Ecclesiastical Biography 22 +Taylor's Loyola 22 + " Wesley 22 +Theologia Germanica 7 +Thumb Bible (The) 22 +Turner's Sacred History 23 +Young's Christ of History 24 + " Mystery 24 + + ++Poetry and the Drama.+ + +Aikin's (Dr.) British Poets 5 +Arnold's Merope 5 + " Poems 5 +Baillie's (Joanna) Poetical Works 5 +Calvert's Wife's Manual 8 +Goldsmith's Poems, illustrated 10 +Horace, edited by Yonge 24 +L. E. L.'s Poetical Works 13 +Linwood's Anthologia Oxoniensis 14 +Lyra Germanica 7 +Macaulay's Laws of Ancient Rome 14 +MacDonald's Within and Without 15 + " Poems 14 +Montgomery's Poetical Works 26 +Moore's Poetical Works 26 + " Selections (illustrated) 26 + " Lalla Rookh 17 + " Irish Melodies 17 + " National Melodies 17 + " Sacred Songs (with Music) 17 + " Songs and Ballads 16 +Reade's Poetical Works 19 +Shakspeare, by Bowdler 20 +Southey's Poetical Works 21 +Thomson's Seasons, illustrated 22 + + ++Political Economy & Statistics.+ + +Macleod's Political Economy 15 +M'Culloch's Geog. Statist. &c. Dict. 15 + " Dictionary of Commerce 15 +Willich's Popular Tables 21 + + ++The Sciences in general and Mathematics.+ + +Arago's Meteorological Essays 5 + " Popular Astronomy 5 +Bourne on the Screw Propeller 6 + " 's Catechism of Steam-Engine 6 +Boyd's Naval Cadet's Manual 6 +Brande's Dictionary of Science, &c. 6 + " Lectures on Organic Chemistry 6 +Cresy's Civil Engineering 8 +Delabeche's Geology of Cornwall, &c. 9 +De la Rive's Electricity 9 +Grove's Correlation of Physical Forces 10 +Herschel's Outlines of Astronomy 11 +Holland's Mental Physiology 11 +Humboldt's Aspects of Nature 12 + " Cosmos 12 +Hunt on Light 12 +Lardner's Cabinet Cyclopædia 13 +Marcet's (Mrs.) Conversations 15 +Morell's Elements of Psychology 17 +Moseley's Engineering and Architecture 17 +Ogilvie's Master-Builder's Plan 18 +Owen's Lectures on Comp. 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SCHMITZ, F.R.S.E.: With numerous +Additions and Corrections by the Author and Translator. 8vo. 14s. + + * * * * * + +DOMENECH'S MISSIONARY TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA. + +Just published, in One Volume, 8vo. with Map, price 10s. 6d. cloth, + +MISSIONARY ADVENTURES + +IN + +TEXAS AND MEXICO: + +A PERSONAL NARRATIVE OF SIX YEARS' SOJOURN IN THOSE REGIONS. + +By the Abbé DOMENECH. + +Translated from the French under the author's superintendence. + +OPINIONS OF THE PRESS. + + +"The chequered and perilous existence of a Catholic missionary +consecrating himself to the cure of souls in the wilds of Texas and +Western America, his physical and moral struggles, are here portrayed +with a vivid truthfulness well calculated to arrest the sympathy of our +readers.... This book requires no further recommendation from as than +the analysis here given. Since the perusal of Livingstone's Africa, we +have read no traveller's journal with more instruction and pleasure. It +is eminently suggestive, too." + LEADER. + + +"Domenech's tone throughout is one of profound conviction; and the +hardships which he encountered, and which he relates with so much +simplicity and modesty as to enforce belief, are proof that he took his +mission to heart. In the two journeys he performed to America--journeys +that would have supplied a diffuse book-maker with matter for many +volumes, the Abbé was almost every day exposed to dangers of his +life--sometimes from the climate, sometimes from the privations to which +he was subjected, now from the rough character of the country he +constantly compelled to traverse in his spiritual journeys, anon from +the violence of colonists or Indians.... It will be seen that readers +who expect an infinity of enjoyment from these missionary adventures +will not be disappointed." + DAILY TELEGRAPH. + + +"The good and brave young Abbé Domenech, whose personal narrative we may +at once say we have found more readable and more informing than a dozen +volumes of ordinary adventure, is not unworthy to be named with Huc in +the annals of missionary enterprise; and we know not how to give him +higher praise. We speak of personal characteristics, and in these--in +the qualifications for a life of self-denying severity, not exercised +under the protecting shadow of a cloister, but in hourly conflict with +danger and necessity--the one looks to us like a younger brother in +likeness to the other. His account of Texas, its physical geography, its +earlier and later history, its populations, settled and nomad, and of +the history and customs of the Indian tribes and their forms of +religious worship, is concisely full and clear; and now that the new +destiny of these regions is beginning to unfold itself, we recommend to +particular attention the few pages in which all that is worth knowing +about their past and present condition is summed up.... To us, the pages +in which the Abbé Domenech confesses the trials and sorrows of his own +heart are the most interesting of his book. They bear the stamp of a +perfect and most touching sincerity; and, as we read them, we are more +and more impressed with the truth which they convey to all churches and +all sects. It has been well said, that Heaven is a character before it +is a place. The lesson which this personal narrative of a poor +missionary teaches, stems to us to be that religion is a life before it +is a dogma." + SATURDAY REVIEW. + + * * * * * + +London: LONGMAN, BROWN, and CO., Paternoster Row. + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of First Impressions of the New World, by +Isabella Strange Trotter + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF THE NEW WORLD *** + +***** This file should be named 18634-8.txt or 18634-8.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/1/8/6/3/18634/ + +Produced by Robert Cicconetti, Martin Pettit and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This +file was produced from images generously made available +by the Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions +(www.canadiana.org)) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: First Impressions of the New World + On Two Travellers from the Old in the Autumn of 1858 + +Author: Isabella Strange Trotter + +Release Date: June 20, 2006 [EBook #18634] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF THE NEW WORLD *** + + + + +Produced by Robert Cicconetti, Martin Pettit and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This +file was produced from images generously made available +by the Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions +(www.canadiana.org)) + + + + + + +</pre> + + +<h2>FIRST IMPRESSIONS</h2> + +<h3>OF</h3> + +<h1>THE NEW WORLD.</h1> + +<p class='tbrk'> </p> + +<h3>By</h3> + +<h2>ISABELLA STRANGE TROTTER</h2> + +<hr /> + +<h4>LONDON<br />PRINTED BY SPOTTISWOODE AND CO.<br />NEW-STREET SQUARE.</h4> + +<hr /> + +<p class="center"><a href="images/maplge.png" id="maplge.png" ><img src="images/mapsml.png" style="width: 579px; height: 700px; border: 0" alt="Map of the Author's Route" /><br />Map of the UNITED STATES,<br />and<br />CANADA,<br />shewing<br />The Author's Route; 1858.</a></p> + +<hr /> + +<h2>FIRST IMPRESSIONS</h2> + +<h3>OF</h3> + +<h1>THE NEW WORLD.</h1> + +<h3>ON</h3> + +<h2>TWO TRAVELLERS FROM THE OLD</h2> + +<p class='tbrk'> </p> + +<h2>IN THE AUTUMN OF 1858.</h2> + +<p class='tbrk'> </p> + +<h4>LONDON<br />LONGMAN, BROWN, GREEN, LONGMANS, & ROBERTS.<br />1859</h4> + +<hr /> + +<h2>CONTENTS.</h2> + +<h3><a href="#DEDICATION">DEDICATION</a></h3> + +<h3><a href="#LETTER_I">LETTER I</a></h3> + +<p>Voyage.—Arrival at New York.—Burning of Quarantine +Buildings.—Cable Rejoicings.—Description of the Town</p> + +<h3><a href="#LETTER_II">LETTER II.</a></h3> + +<p>West Point.—Steamer to Newport.—Newport.—Bishop +Berkeley.—Bathing.—Arrival at Boston</p> + +<h3><a href="#LETTER_III">LETTER III.</a></h3> + +<p>Journey to Boston.—Boston.—Prison.—Hospital.—Springfield.—Albany.—Trenton +Falls.—Journey to Niagara.—Niagara</p> + +<h3><a href="#LETTER_IV">LETTER IV.</a></h3> + +<p>Niagara.—Maid of the Mist.—Arrival at Toronto.—Toronto.—Thousand +Islands.—Rapids of the St. Lawrence.—Montreal.—Victoria Bridge</p> + +<h3><a href="#LETTER_V">LETTER V.</a></h3> + +<p>Journey from Montreal to Quebec.—Quebec.—Falls of Montmorency.—Island +Pond.—White Mountains.—Portland.—Return +to Boston.—Harvard University.—Newhaven.—Yale University.—Return to New York</p> + +<h3><a href="#LETTER_VI">LETTER VI.</a></h3> + +<p>Destruction of the Crystal Palace.—Philadelphia.—Cemetery.—Girard +College.—Baltimore.—American Liturgy.—Return to +Philadelphia.—Penitentiary.—Return to New York</p> + +<h3><a href="#LETTER_VII">LETTER VII.</a></h3> + +<p>William's Departure.—Greenwood Cemetery.—Journey to +Washington.—Arrangements for our Journey to the Far West.—Topsy</p> + +<h3><a href="#LETTER_VIII">LETTER VIII.</a></h3> + +<p>Washington.—Baptist Class-Meeting.—Public Buildings.—Venus +by Daylight.—Baltimore and Ohio Railway.—Wheeling.—Arrival at Columbus</p> + +<h3><a href="#LETTER_IX">LETTER IX.</a></h3> + +<p>Journey from Wheeling to Columbus.—Fire in the Mountains.—Mr. +Tyson's Stories.—Columbus.—Penitentiary.—Capitol—Governor +Chase.—Charitable Institutions.—Arrival at Cincinnati</p> + +<h3><a href="#LETTER_X">LETTER X.</a></h3> + +<p>Cincinnati.—Mr. Longworth.—German Population.—"Over +the Rhine."—Environs of Cincinnati.—Gardens.—Fruits.—Common +Schools.—Journey to St. Louis</p> + +<h3><a href="#LETTER_XI">LETTER XI.</a></h3> + +<p>St. Louis.—Jefferson City.—Return to St. Louis.—Alton.—Springfield.—Fires +on the Prairies.—Chicago—Granaries.—Packing +Houses.—Lake Michigan.—Arrival at Indianapolis</p> + +<h3><a href="#LETTER_XII">LETTER XII.</a></h3> + +<p>Indianapolis.—Louisville.—Louisville and Portland Canal.—Portland.—The +Pacific Steamer.—Journey to Lexington.—Ashland.—Slave +Pens at Lexington.—Return to Cincinnati.—Pennsylvania +Central Railway.—Return to New York</p> + +<h3><a href="#LETTER_XIII">LETTER XIII.</a></h3> + +<p>New York.—Astor Library.—Cooper Institute.—Bible House.—Dr. +Rae.—Dr. Tyng.—Tarrytown.—Albany.—Sleighing.—Final +Return to Boston.—Halifax.—Voyage Home.—Conclusion</p> + +<h3><a href="#A_CATALOGUE">A CATALOGUE OF NEW WORKS IN GENERAL LITERATURE</a></h3> + +<h3><a href="#CLASSIFIED_INDEX">CLASSIFIED INDEX</a></h3> + +<h3><a href="#ALPHABETICAL_CATALOGUE">ALPHABETICAL CATALOGUE OF NEW WORKS AND NEW EDITIONS</a></h3> + +<hr /> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_v" id="Page_v">[Pg v]</a></span></p> + +<h4><a name="DEDICATION" id="DEDICATION"></a>TO</h4> + +<h3>I. L. T.</h3> + +<hr /> + +<p><span class="smcap">My dear little Girl</span>,</p> + +<p>I dedicate this little book to you; the letters it contains were meant +to let you know how your father and I and your brother William fared in +a rapid journey, during the autumn of last year, through part of Canada +and the United States, and are here presented to you in another form +more likely to ensure their preservation.</p> + +<p>You are not yet old enough fully to understand them, but the time will, +I trust, come when it will give you pleasure to read them. I can safely +say they were written without any intention of going beyond yourself and +our own family circle; but some friends have persuaded me to publish +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_vi" id="Page_vi">[Pg vi]</a></span>them, for which I ought, I suppose, to ask your pardon, as the letters +have become your property.</p> + +<p>The reason which has made your father and me consent to this is, that we +scarcely think that travellers in general have done justice to our good +brothers in America. We do not mean to say that <i>we</i> have accomplished +this, or that others have not fairly described what they have seen; but +different impressions of a country are made on persons who see it under +different aspects, and who travel under different circumstances.</p> + +<p>When William, for example, was separated from us he found the treatment +he received very unlike what it was while he travelled in our company; +and as many bachelors pass through the country and record their +experience, it is not surprising if some of them describe things very +differently to what we do.</p> + +<p>The way to arrive at truth in this, as in all other cases, is to hear +what every one has to say, and to compare one account with another; and +if these letters to you help others to understand better the nature and +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_vii" id="Page_vii">[Pg vii]</a></span>character of the country and the people of America, my object in making +them public will be attained.</p> + +<p>With some few alterations, the letters are left just as you received +them, for I have been anxious not to alter in any way what I have told +you of my First Impressions. When, therefore, I have had reason to +change my opinions, I have thought it better to subjoin a foot-note; and +in this way, too, I have sometimes added a few things which I forgot at +the time to mention in the letters themselves.</p> + +<p>There is only one thing more to tell you, which is, that though I wrote +and signed all the letters myself many parts are of your father's +dictating. I leave you and others to judge which these are. Without his +help I never could have sent you such full accounts of the engine of the +Newport steamer, or of our journey across the Alleghanies and other such +subjects; and you will, I know, like the letters all the better for his +having taken a part in them.</p> + +<p class='right'>Believe me ever, <br />Your affectionate Mother.</p> + +<p>June, 1859.</p> + +<hr /> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[Pg 1]</a></span></p> + +<h2>FIRST IMPRESSIONS</h2> + +<h3>OF</h3> + +<h1>THE NEW WORLD.</h1> + +<hr class='smler' /> +<h2><a name="LETTER_I" id="LETTER_I"></a>LETTER I.</h2> + +<blockquote><p>VOYAGE.— ARRIVAL AT NEW YORK.— BURNING OF QUARANTINE +BUILDINGS.— CABLE REJOICINGS.— DESCRIPTION OF THE TOWN.</p></blockquote> + +<p class='right'>New York, September 3, 1858.</p> + +<p>We landed here yesterday afternoon, at about six o'clock, after a very +prosperous voyage; and, as the Southampton mail goes to-morrow, I must +begin this letter to you to-night. I had fully intended writing to you +daily during the voyage, but I was quite laid up for the first week with +violent sea sickness, living upon water-gruel and chicken-broth. I +believe I was the greatest sufferer in this respect on board; but the +doctor was most attentive, and a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">[Pg 2]</a></span> change in the weather came to my +relief on Sunday,—not that we had any rough weather, but there was +rather more motion than suited me at first.</p> + +<p>Papa and William were well throughout the voyage, eating and drinking +and walking on deck all day. Our companions were chiefly Americans, and +many of them were very agreeable and intelligent. Amongst the number I +may mention the poet Bryant, who was returning home with his wife and +daughter after a long visit to Europe; but they, too, have suffered much +from sea sickness, and, as this is a great bar to all intercourse, I had +not as much with them as I could have wished.</p> + +<p>The north coast of Ireland delighted us much on our first Sunday. We +passed green hills and high cliffs on our left, while we could see the +distant outline of the Mull of Cantire, in Scotland, on our right. We +had no service on that Sunday, but on the one following we had two +services, which were read by the doctor; and we had two good sermons +from two dissenting ministers. The second was preached by a Wesleyan +from Nova Scotia, who was familiar with my father's name there. He was a +good and superior man, and we had some interesting conversations with +him.</p> + +<p>We saw no icebergs, which disappointed me much;<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[Pg 3]</a></span> but we passed a few +whales last Tuesday, spouting up their graceful fountains in the +distance. One came very near the ship, and we had a distinct view of its +enormous body. We had a good deal of fog when off Newfoundland, which +obliged us to use the fog-whistle frequently; and a most dismal sounding +instrument it is. The fog prevented our having any communication with +Cape Race, from whence a boat would otherwise have come off to receive +the latest news from England, and our arrival would have been +telegraphed to New York.</p> + +<p>The coast of Long Island came in sight yesterday, and our excitement was +naturally great as we approached the American shore.</p> + +<p>Before rounding Sandy Hook, which forms the entrance on one side to the +bay of New York, we ran along the eastern coast of Long Island, which +presents nothing very remarkable in appearance, although the pretty +little bright town of Rockaway, with its white houses studded along the +beach, and glittering in the sun, gave a pleasing impression of the +country. This was greatly increased when, running up the bay, we came to +what are called the Narrows, and had Staten Island on our left and Long +Island on the right. The former, something like the Isle of Wight in +appearance, is a thickly-wooded hill covered with<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[Pg 4]</a></span> pretty country +villas, and the Americans were unceasing in their demands for admiration +of the scenery.<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a></p> + +<p>Before entering the Narrows, indeed shortly after passing Sandy Hook, a +little boat with a yellow flag came from the quarantine station to see +if we were free from yellow fever and other disorders. There were many +ships from the West Indies performing quarantine, but we were happily +exempted, being all well on board. It was getting dark when we reached +the wharf; and, after taking leave of our passenger friends, we landed, +and proceeded to an adjoining custom-house, where, through the influence +of one of our fellow-passengers, our boxes were not opened, but it was a +scene of great bustle and confusion. After much delay we were at length +hoisted into a wonderful old coach, apparently of the date of Queen +Anne. We made a struggle with the driver not to take in more than our +own party. Up, however, others mounted, and on we drove into a +ferry-<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[Pg 5]</a></span>boat, which steamed us, carriage and all, across the harbour, for +we had landed from the ship on the New Jersey side. After reaching New +York by means of this ferry-boat, we still had to drive along a +considerable part of Broadway, and finally reached this comfortable +hotel—the Brevoort House—at about eight o'clock.</p> + +<p>The master of the hotel shook hands with papa on entering, and again +this morning treated him with the same republican familiarity. The hotel +is very quiet, and not a specimen of the large kind, which we intend +seeing later. We had fortunately secured rooms beforehand, as the town +is very full, owing to the rejoicings at the successful laying of the +cable, and many of our fellow-passengers were obliged to get lodgings +where they could.</p> + +<p>We found that Lord Napier was in the hotel, so we sent our letters to +him, and had a long visit from him this morning.</p> + +<p>Two topics seem at present to occupy the minds of everybody here; one, +the successful laying of the cable, the other the burning of the +quarantine buildings on Staten Island. We were quite unconscious, when +passing the spot yesterday, that the whole of these buildings had been +destroyed on the preceding night by an incendiary mob; for such we<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[Pg 6]</a></span> must +style the miscreants, although they comprised a large portion, it is +said, of the influential inhabitants of the place. The alleged reason +was that the Quarantine establishment was a nuisance, and the residents +had for months been boasting of their intention to destroy the obnoxious +buildings. The miserable inmates would have perished in the flames, had +not some, more charitable than the rest, dragged them from their beds. +The Yellow Fever Hospital is destroyed, and the houses of the physicians +and health officers are burnt to the ground. At the very same moment New +York itself was the scene of the splendid festivities in honour of the +successful laying of the Atlantic Telegraph Cable, to which we have +alluded.</p> + +<p>We came in for the <i>finale</i> of these yesterday, when the streets were +still much decorated. In Trinity Church we saw these decorations +undisturbed: the floral ornaments in front of the altar were more +remarkable, however, for their profusion than for their good taste. On a +temporary screen, consisting of three pointed gothic arches, stood a +cross of considerable dimensions, the screen and cross being together +about fifty feet high. The columns supporting the arches, the arches +themselves, and all the lines of construction, were<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</a></span> heavily covered +with fir, box, holly, and other evergreens, so as to completely hide all +trace of the wooden frame. The columns and arches of the church were +also decorated with wreaths and garlands of flowers.</p> + +<p>On a panel on the temporary structure already mentioned was the +inscription, "<span class="smcap">Glory be to God on high, and on earth peace, good will +towards men</span>," all done in letters of flowers of different colours; the +cross itself being covered with white roses and lilies. In the streets +were all sorts of devices, a very conspicuous one being the cable slung +between two rocks, and Queen Victoria and the President standing, +looking very much astonished at each other from either side. The +absurdity of all this was, that the cable had really by this time come +to grief: at least, on the morning after our landing, an unsuccessful +attempt was made to transmit the news of our arrival to our friends in +England. It was rather absurd to see the credit the Americans took to +themselves for the success, such as it was, of the undertaking.</p> + +<p>Besides seeing all this, we have to-day driven and walked about the town +a good deal, and admire it much. It is very Parisian in the appearance +of its high houses, covered with large bright letterings;<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</a></span> and the shops +are very large and much gayer looking on the outside than ours; but, on +examination, we were disappointed with their contents. The streets seem +badly paved, and are consequently noisy, and there are few fine +buildings or sights of any kind; but the dwelling-houses are not +unfrequently built of white marble, and are all handsome and +substantial. In our drive to-day we were much struck with the general +appearance of the streets and avenues, as the streets which run parallel +to Broadway are called. The weather has been sultry, but with a good +deal of wind; and the ladies must think it hot, as most of them appear +at breakfast in high dresses with short sleeves, and walk about in this +attire with a slight black lace mantle over their shoulders, their naked +elbows showing through. We go to-morrow to West Point, on the Hudson +River, to spend Sunday, and return here on Monday, on which day William +leaves us to make a tour in the White Mountains, and he is to join us at +Boston on Monday week.</p> + +<p>You must consider this as the first chapter of my Journal, which I hope +now to continue regularly.</p> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTE:</h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> The admiration thus claimed for the scenery was sometimes +so extravagant as to make us look for a continuance of it, a reproach of +this kind being so often made against the Americans; but we are bound to +add this note, to say that we very seldom met afterwards with anything +of the kind, and the expressions used on this occasion were hardly, +after all, more than the real beauty of the scenery warranted.</p></div> +</div> + +<hr /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="LETTER_II" id="LETTER_II"></a>LETTER II.</h2> + +<blockquote><p>WEST POINT.— STEAMER TO NEWPORT.— NEWPORT.— BISHOP +BERKELEY.— BATHING.— ARRIVAL AT BOSTON.</p></blockquote> + +<p class='right'>Brevoort House, 5th Avenue, New York,<br /> +8th Sept., 1858. </p> + +<p>My letter to you of the 3rd instant gave you an account of our voyage, +and of our first impressions of this city. In the afternoon of the 4th, +William went by steamboat to West Point, on the river Hudson, and we +went by railway. This was our first experience of an American Railway, +and it certainly bore no comparison in comfort either to our own, or to +those we have been so familiar with on the Continent. The carriages are +about forty feet long, without any distinction of first and second +classes: the benches, with low backs, carrying each two people, are +arranged along the two sides, with a passage down the middle. The +consequence is, that one may be brought into close contact with people, +who, at home, would be in a third-class carriage. There are two other +serious drawbacks in a long journey;<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</a></span> the one being that there is no +rest for the head, and therefore no possible way of sleeping +comfortably; the other, that owing to the long range of windows on +either side, the unhappy traveller may be exposed to a thorough draught, +without any way of escape, unless by closing the window at his side, if +he is fortunate enough to have a seat which places it within his reach. +Another serious objection is the noise, which is so great as to make +conversation most laborious. They are painstaking in their care of the +luggage, for besides pasting on labels, each article has a numbered +check attached to it, a duplicate of which is given to the owner; time +is saved in giving up the tickets, which is done without stoppage, there +being a free passage from one end of the train to the other. This +enables not only ticket-takers, but sellers of newspapers and railway +guides, to pass up and down the carriages; iced water is also offered +gratis.</p> + +<p>The road to Garrison, where we had to cross the river, runs along the +left bank of the Hudson, a distance of fifty miles, close to the water's +edge nearly the whole way, and we were much struck by the magnificence +of the scenery. The river, generally from two to three miles in breadth, +winds between ranges of rocks and hills, mostly covered with wood, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</a></span> +sometimes rising to a height of 800 feet. Owing to the windings and the +islands, the river frequently takes the appearance of a lake; while the +clearness of the atmosphere, and the colouring of the sunset, added to +the beauty of the scene. We travelled at the rate of twenty miles an +hour, and arrived in darkness at Garrison. Here we crossed the river in +a ferry-boat to West Point, and found William, who had come at the same +speed in the steamer. The hotel being full, we accepted the offer of +rooms made us by Mr. Osborn, an American friend of papa's, at a little +cottage close to the hotel. Mr. and Mrs. Osborn and their two children +had passed some weeks there, and said they frequently thus received +over-flowings from the hotel, and but for their hospitality on this +occasion, we should have been houseless for the night. This cottage +belonged to the landlord of the hotel, and there being no cooking +accommodation in it, we all took our meals in the public dining-room. +The hotel itself is a very spacious building, with a wide verandah at +each end. We found an endless variety of cakes spread for tea, which did +not exactly suit our appetites, but we made the best of it, and then +went into the public drawing-room, where we found all the guests of the +hotel assembled, and the room brilliantly lighted. Here balls, or as<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</a></span> +they call them "hops," take place three or four times a week. The scene +is thoroughly foreign, more German than French. The ladies' hoops are +extravagant in circumference; the colouring of their dresses is violent +and heavy; and there is scarcely a man to be seen without moustachios, a +beard, a straw hat, and a cigar. West Point is the Sandhurst of the +United States, and is also the nearest summer rendezvous of the +fashionables of New York. It is beautifully situated on the heights +above the river, and the Military Academy, about ten minutes' drive from +the hotel, commands a most splendid view of the Hudson, and the hills on +either side.</p> + +<p>We went to the chapel on Sunday the 5th, where we joined, for the first +time, in the service in America. It differs but little from our own, and +was followed by a not very striking sermon. The Holy Communion was +afterwards administered, and it was a comfort to us to join in it on +this our first Sunday in America. The cadets filled the centre of the +chapel, and are a very good-looking set of youths, wearing a pretty +uniform, the jacket being pale grey with large silver buttons. We dined +at four o'clock at the <i>table d'hôte</i>, in a room capable of holding +about four hundred. We sat next to the landlord, who carved at one of +the long tables. The dinner<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span> was remarkably well cooked in the French +style, but most deficient in quantity, and we rose from table nearly as +hungry as we sat down. Some of the ladies appeared at dinner in evening +dresses, with short sleeves (made <i>very</i> short) and low bodies, a tulle +pelerine being stretched tight over their bare necks. In some cases the +hair was dressed with large ornamental pins and artificial flowers, as +for an evening party. We met them out walking later in the evening, with +light shawls or visites on their shoulders, no bonnets, and large fans +in their hands. This toilette was fully accounted for by the heat, the +thermometer being at 80° in the shade. Many of the younger women were +very pretty, and pleasing in their manners.</p> + +<p>We left West Point early on Monday morning, the 6th, taking the +steamboat back to New York, leaving William to pursue his journey to the +White Mountains and Montreal alone, and we are to meet him again at +Boston next week. The steamboat was well worth seeing, being a wonderful +floating house or palace, three stories high, almost consisting of two +or three large saloons, much gilt and decorated, and hung with prints +and filled with passengers. The machinery rises in the centre of the +vessel, as high nearly as the funnel. We went at<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</a></span> the rate of twenty +miles an hour. We again enjoyed the beauties of the river, and could +this time see both sides, which we were unable to do on the railway, by +which means too we saw many pretty towns and villas which we had missed +on Saturday. We were back at the hotel by twelve o'clock, and are to +make our next move to-morrow afternoon to Newport, a sea-bathing place, +a little way north of this. We are doing this at the strong +recommendation of Lord Napier, who says, at this time of the year +Newport is worth seeing, as giving a better idea of an American +watering-place than Saratoga, where the season is now drawing to a +close.</p> + +<p>We have now become more familiar with this place, and I think are +beginning to feel the total want of interest of any sort beyond a +general admiration of the handsome wide streets and well-built houses. +The Brevoort House is in the fifth avenue, which, in point of fashion, +answers to Belgrave Square with us, and consists of a long line of +houses of large dimensions. A friend, who accompanied us in our drive +yesterday evening, pointed out many of the best of them as belonging to +button-makers, makers of sarsaparilla, and rich parvenus, who have risen +from the shop counter. He took us to his own house in this line, which +was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span> moderate in size, and prettily fitted up. He is a collector of +pictures, and has one very fine oil painting of a splendid range of +mountainous scenery, in the Andes. It is by Church, a rising young +American, whose view of the Falls of Niagara was exhibited this year in +London. We have made frequent use of the omnibus here; the fares are +half the price of the London ones, and the carriages are very clean and +superior in every way to ours. Great trust is shown in the honesty of +the passengers, there being no one to receive payment at the door, but a +notice within directs the money to be paid to the driver, which is done +through a hole in the roof, and he presents his fingers to receive it, +without apparently knowing how many passengers have entered. We +frequently meet woolly-headed negroes in our walks, and they seem to +form a large proportion of the servants, both male and female, and of +porters and the like. We are disappointed in the fruit. The peaches are +cheap, and in great quantities, but they are very inferior to ours in +flavour, and the melons are also tasteless. The water-melons are cut in +long slices and sold in the streets, and the people eat them as they +walk along. The great luxury of the place is ice, which travels about +the streets in carts, the blocks being three or<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</a></span> four feet thick, and a +glass of iced water is the first thing placed on the table at each meal. +The cookery at this hotel is French, and first rate. We have had a few +dishes that are new to us. The corn-bread and whaffles are cakes made +principally of Indian-corn; and the Okra-vegetable, which was to us new, +is cut into slices to flavour soup. Lima beans are very good; we have +also had yams, and yesterday tasted the Cincinnati champagne, which we +thought very poor stuff.</p> + +<p><i>Fillmore House, Newport, Rhode Island, September 13th.</i>—We left New +York on Thursday afternoon, and embarked in a Brobdingnagian steamboat, +which it would not be very easy to describe. The cabin is on the upper +deck, so that at either end you can walk out on to the stern or bow of +the vessel; it is about eleven feet high, and most splendidly fitted up +and lighted at night with four ormolu lustres, each having eight large +globe lights. We paced the length of the cabin and made it 115 paces, so +that walking nine times up and down made a nice walk of a mile. The +engine of the steamboat in America rises far above the deck in the +centre of the vessel, so this formed an obstruction to our seeing the +whole length, unless on each side of the engine, where a broad and clear +passage allowed a full view<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span> from end to end; but instead of taking away +from the fine effect, the engine-room added greatly thereto, for it was +divided from the cabin, on one side, by a huge sheet of plate glass, +through which the most minute workings of the engines could be seen. +There was in front a large clock, and dials of every description, to +show the atmospheric pressure, the number of revolutions of the wheel, +&c. This latter dial was a most beautiful piece of mechanism. Its face +showed six digits, so that the number of revolutions could be shown up +to 999,999. The series of course began with 000,001, and at the end of +the first turn the <i>nothings</i> remained, and the 1 changed first into 2, +then into 3, &c., till at the end of the tenth revolution the two last +digits changed together, and it stood at 000,010, and at the 1,012th +revolution it stood at 001,012.</p> + +<p>To go back to the saloon itself; the walls and ceiling were very much +carved, gilt, and ornamented with engravings which, though not equal to +our Albert Durers, or Raphael Morghens at home, were respectable modern +performances, and gave a drawing-room look to the place. The carpet was +gorgeous in colour, and very pretty in design, and the arm-chairs, of +which 120 were fixtures ranged round<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</a></span> the wall, besides quantities +dispersed about the room, were uniform in make, and very comfortable. +They were covered with French woven tapestry, very similar to the +specimens we bought at Pau. There were no sofas, which was doubtless +wise, as they might have been turned to sleeping purposes. Little +passages having windows at the end, ran out of the saloon, each opening +into little state cabins on either side, containing two berths each, as +large as those on board the Africa, and much more airy; but the +wonderful part was below stairs. Under the after-part of the saloon was +the general sleeping cabin for the ladies who could not afford to pay +for state cabins, of which, however, there were nearly a hundred. Our +maid slept in this ladies' cabin, and her berth was No. 306, but how +many more berths there may have been here we cannot tell. This must have +occupied about a quarter of the space underneath the upper saloon. The +remaining three quarters of the space constituted the gentlemen's +sleeping cabin, and this was a marvellous sight. The berths are ranged +in four tiers, forming the sides of the cabin, which was at least +fourteen feet high; and as these partook of the curve of the vessel, the +line of berths did the same, so as<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</a></span> not to be quite one over the other. +There were muslin curtains in front of the berths, forming, when drawn, +a wall of light floating drapery along each side of the cabin, and this +curved appearance of the wall was very pretty; but the prettiest effect +was when the supper tables were laid out and the room brilliantly +lighted up. Two long tables stretched the whole length, on which were +placed alternately bouquets and trash of the sweet-cake kind, though the +peaches, water-melons, and ices were very good, and as we had luckily +dined at New York, <i>we</i> were satisfied. The waiters were all niggers, +grinning from ear to ear, white jacketed, active, and clever, about +forty strong. The stewardesses, also of African origin, wore hoops of +extravagant dimensions, and open bodies in front, displaying dark brown +necks many of them lighted up by a necklace or diamond cross, rivalling +Venus herself if she were black. They were really fearful objects to +contemplate, for there was a look of display about them which read one a +severe lesson on female vanity, so frightful did they appear, and yet +rigged out like modern beauties. It was the most lovely afternoon +conceivable, and we stayed on deck, sometimes on the bow and sometimes +on the stern of the vessel, till<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span> long after dark. We preferred the bow, +as there was no awning there, and the air was more fresh and +invigorating.</p> + +<p>The passage through Long Island Sound was like a river studded on both +sides with villas and green lawns, something like the Thames between +Kingston and Hampton, but much wider, and with higher background, and +altogether on a larger scale. When, owing to the darkness, we lost sight +of these, they were replaced by lighthouses constantly recurring. This +huge Leviathan, considerably longer than the Africa, proceeded at the +rate of about eighteen miles an hour, going half-speed only, on account +of the darkness of the night. The full speed was twenty-four miles an +hour, and remember this was not a high-pressure engine. After proceeding +through this narrow channel for about 120 miles, we again entered the +Atlantic, but speedily reached the narrow inlet which extends up to this +place. You may wonder at our having been able to make such minute +observations upon the saloon, &c.; but having tried our state cabin, and +not relishing it, we paced up and down the saloon, and occupied by turns +most of its 120 chairs, till three o'clock in the morning brought us to +the end of our voyage.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span> There was no real objection to the cabin, beyond +the feeling that it was not worth while to undress and lie down for so +short a time; besides which, papa was in one of his fidgetty states, +which he could only relieve by exercise.</p> + +<p>But how now to describe Newport? Papa is looking out of the window, and +facing it is an avenue of trees running between two lawns of grass as +green as any to be seen in England, though certainly the grass is +coarser than at home. In these lawns stand houses of every shape and +form, and we, being <i>au troisième</i> have a distant view of the sea, which +looks like the Mediterranean studded with ships. As this place (the +Brighton of New York) stands on a small island, this sea view is +discernible from all sides of the house. We walked yesterday a long way +round the cliffs, which are covered with houses far superior to the +average villas in England, the buildings being of a brilliant white and +sometimes stone colour, and of elaborate architecture, with colonnades, +verandahs, balconies, bay windows of every shape and variety, and all +built of wood. The churches are some of them very beautiful, both Gothic +and Grecian. A Gothic one to which we went yesterday afternoon, was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</a></span> +high, high, high in its decorations, but not in the least in the +doctrine we heard, which was thoroughly sound on "God so loved the +world," &c. The fittings up were very simple, and the exterior of the +church remarkable for the grace and simplicity of its outline; for +being, like the houses, built entirely of wood, elaborate carving cannot +be indulged in.</p> + +<p>The church which we went to in the morning offered a great contrast to +this, the interior being fitted up with high old-fashioned pews, like +many a village church at home; but besides this, a further interest +attached to Trinity Church, as being the one in which Dean Berkeley used +to preach, and from its remaining unaltered in its internal appearance +from what it was in his days. The pulpit is still the same, and there is +still in the church the organ which he presented to it, at least the +original case of English oak is there, and part of the works are the +same, though some pipes have lately been added. Independently of Trinity +Church, the town of Newport has many associations connected with Bishop +Berkeley's memory, the place where he lived, and where he wrote his +"Minute Philosopher" being still pointed out, as well as the spot on the +beach<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span> where he used to sit and meditate. The most striking buildings, +however, are the hotels, one of which, the "Ocean House," is the largest +building of the kind we have ever seen. It has very much the appearance +of the huge convents one sees in Italy, and, standing on the top of the +cliffs, it has a most remarkable effect. There are some very good +streets, but the greatest part of the town consists of detached houses +standing in gardens. There are very few stone buildings of any kind. The +hotel we are in is not the largest, but is considered the best, and in +the height of the season the place must be very gay.</p> + +<p>The next, perhaps the greatest, feature here is the bathing. There are +three beaches formed round a succession of points, the whole forming a +lovely drive on dry hard sand; and such a sun as we gazed upon yesterday +setting over these distant sands passes description. On the first of +these beaches are ranged more than a hundred bathing machines at about a +hundred yards above high-water mark, looking like sentry boxes on a +large scale, with fine dry sand between them and the sea. We went down +on Saturday to see the bathing, which is here quite a public affair; and +having fixed our eyes on a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span> machine about a dozen yards off, we saw two +damsels enter it, while a young gentleman, who accompanied them went +into an adjoining one. In a few minutes he came out attired in his +bathing dress and knocked at the ladies' door. As the damsels were +apparently not ready, he went into the water to wait their coming, and +in due time they sallied forth dressed in thick red baize trowsers and a +short dress of the same colour and material, drawn in at the waist by a +girdle. The gentleman's toilet was coloured trowsers and a tight flannel +jacket without sleeves. He wore no hat, but the ladies had on very +<i>piquante</i> straw hats trimmed with velvet, very like the Nice ones, to +preserve them from a <i>coup de soleil</i>. They joined each other in the +water, where they amused themselves together for a long time; a +gentleman friend's presence on these occasions is essential, from the +Atlantic surf being sometimes very heavy; but the young gentleman in +question did not enact the part of Mr. Jacob, of Cromer, not being +professional. The number of bathers is generally very great, though now +the season being nearly over there are not many, but there were still +enough to let us judge of the fun that is said to go on.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span></p> + +<p>There are few guests in this house now. A "hop" was attempted on Friday +evening in the entrance hall, but the unhappy musicians exerted +themselves in playing the Lancers' Quadrilles and all sorts of ugly +jerking polkas without success, although an attempt at one quadrille, we +were told, was made after we had retired for the night. The <i>table +d'hôte</i> toilettes here now are much quieter than they were at Westpoint, +there being but two short sleevers yesterday at our two o'clock dinner. +There is a large and handsome public drawing-room, where we can rock in +rocking chairs (even the bed-rooms have them), or pass an hour in the +evening. We are waited on at dinner by twelve <i>darkies</i>, as the niggers +are called, marshalled by a head waiter as tall as papa and as black as +his hat. A black thumb on your plate, as he hands it to you, is <i>not</i> +pleasant. The housemaids are also niggeresses, and usually go about in +coloured cotton sun bonnets. I now leave off, as we start for Boston in +an hour.</p> + +<p><i>Boston, 14th September, 1858.</i>—We reached this yesterday, and were +looking for William all the evening, but were disappointed at his +non-appearance. He arrived here, however, at three this morning by the +steamer, and is now recounting his<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span> adventures; he enjoyed himself very +much, and looks all the better for his trip.</p> + +<p>I ought to tell you of a few Yankee expressions, but I believe the most +<i>racy</i> of them are used by the young men whom we do not come across: "I +guess" is as common as "I think" in England. In directing you on any +road or street, they tell you always to go "right away." If you do not +feel very well, and think you are headachy, and that perhaps the weather +is the cause, you are told you are "under the weather this morning." An +excellent expression we think; so truly describing the state papa is +often in when in dear old England. Then when you ask for information on +any subject, the answer is frequently, "I can't say, sir, for I am not +<i>posted up</i> on that subject." I asked an American gentleman, who was +walking with us last night, not to walk quite so fast, and he answered, +"Oh, I understand; you do not like that Yankee hitch." "Yankee" is no +term of offence among themselves. Our friend certainly made use of the +last expression as a quotation, but said it was a common one. They will +"fix you a little ginger in your tea, if you wish it;" and they all, +ladies and gentlemen, say, Sir, and Ma'am, at every sentence, and all +through the conversation,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span> giving a most common style to all they say; +although papa declares it is Grandisonian, and that they have retained +good manners, from which we have fallen off.</p> + +<p>I reserve my description of the journey here, and of this town, for my +next letter.</p> + +<hr /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="LETTER_III" id="LETTER_III"></a>LETTER III.</h2> + +<blockquote><p>JOURNEY TO BOSTON.— BOSTON.— PRISON.— HOSPITAL.— SPRINGFIELD.— ALBANY.— TRENTON +FALLS.— JOURNEY TO NIAGARA.— NIAGARA.</p></blockquote> + +<p class='right'>Delavan House, Albany, Sept. 15th, 1858.</p> + +<p>I find it at present impossible to keep up my letter to you from day to +day, but I am so afraid of arrears accumulating upon me that I shall +begin this to-night, though it is late and we are to start early +to-morrow. My last letter brought us up to our arrival at Boston, but I +have not yet described to you our delightful journey there.</p> + +<p>We left Newport with our friends, Mr. and Miss Morgan, at two o'clock on +the 13th, and embarked in a small steamer, which took us up the +Narragansett Bay to the interesting manufacturing town of Providence. We +were about two hours on the steamer, and kept pace with the railway cars +which were running on the shores parallel to us, and also going to +Providence. The shores were very pretty, green and sloping, and dotted +with bright and clean<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span> white wooden houses and churches. We passed the +pretty-looking town of Bristol on our right. The day was lovely, +brilliant and cool, with a delightfully bracing wind caused by our own +speed through the water.</p> + +<p>The boat brought us to Providence in time only to walk quickly to the +railway, but we had an opportunity of getting a glance at the place. It +is one of the oldest towns in America, dating as far back as 1635; but +its original importance is much gone off, Boston, which is in some +respects more conveniently situated, having carried off much of its +trade. It is most beautifully situated on the Narragansett Bay, the +upper end of which is quite encircled by the town, the city rising +beyond it on a rather abrupt hill. Among the manufactories which still +exist here, those for jewellery are very numerous.</p> + +<p>We were now to try the railway for the second time in America, and +having been told that the noise of the Hudson River line was caused by +the reverberation of the rocks, and was peculiar to that railway, we +hoped for better things on this, our second journey. We found, however, +to our disappointment, that there was scarcely any improvement as to +quiet; and as papa <i>would</i> eat a dinner instead of a luncheon at +Newport, this and the noise together<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span> soon worried his poor head into a +headache. We were confirmed in our dislike of the cars and railways, +which have many serious faults. The one window over which papa and I +(sitting together) were able to exercise entire control, opened like all +others by pushing it <i>up</i>. A consequence of this arrangement is that the +shoulder next to it is in danger of many a rheumatic twinge, being so +exposed to cold; whereas, if the window opened the reverse way, air +could be let in without the shoulder being thus exposed. I forgot in my +description of the cars, to tell you that the seats are all reversible, +enabling four persons to sit in pairs facing each other, and also if +their opposite neighbours are amiably disposed, enabling each pair to +rest their feet on the opposite seat, and if the opposite seat is empty, +the repose across from seat to seat can be still more complete; but it +is an odious contrivance, and neither repose nor rest can be thought of +in these most uncomfortable carriages. Our seats faced the front door, +and were close to it, which was very desirable as the air is clearer at +that end, and not so loaded with the impurities of so large a mass of +all classes as at the other end. We made various purchases as we went +along. First came the ticket man, then cheap periodicals, then apples +and pears,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span> common bon-bons, and corn pop, of which I am trying to keep +a specimen to send you. It is a kind of corn which is roasted on the +fire, and in so doing, makes a <i>popping</i> noise, whence its name. It is +pleasant to nibble. Then came iced water, highly necessary after the dry +corn pop, and finally about twenty good and well-chosen books. Papa +bought the Life of Stephenson.</p> + +<p>But if we had room to grumble about discomforts within, we could only +admire unceasingly without the very lovely road along which we were +rapidly passing. The country consisted of undulating hills and slopes, +prettily wooded, while bright white wooden houses and churches rapidly +succeeded each other; the tall, sharp, white church spire contrasting +beautifully with the dark back-ground of trees. It was delightful to see +all the houses and cottages looking trim and neat, and in perfect order +and repair. There was no such thing as dilapidation or poverty apparent, +and the necessary repairs being so easily made, and the paint-brush +readily available, all looked in the most perfect order. We could do +little else than admire the scenery, and arrived at Boston at about six +o'clock; the last few minutes of the journey being over a long wooden +bridge or viaduct, which connects the mainland with the peninsula on<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span> +which Boston is built. We found rooms ready for us at Tremont House. It +is an enormous hotel, but the passages are close, and the rooms small. +They were otherwise, however, very luxurious, for I had a small +dressing-room out of my bedroom in which was a warm bath and a plentiful +supply of hot and cold water laid on, besides other conveniences.</p> + +<p>The next morning we found Lord and Lady Radstock in the breakfast-room; +and papa accompanied Lord Radstock to see an hospital and prison.</p> + +<p>The prison was the jail in which prisoners are detained before their +trial, as well as when the duration of their imprisonment is not to be +very long. Nothing, by papa's description, can exceed the excellency of +the arrangements as far as the airiness and cleanliness of the cells, +and even the comforts of the prisoners, are concerned, but the system is +one of strict solitary confinement. Papa and Lord R. were surprised to +find that some unhappy persons, who were kept there merely in the +character of witnesses, were subject to the same rigorous treatment. +Lord R. remarked, that he would take good care not to see any offence +committed while in this country, but the jailor replied, "Oh, it would +be quite enough if any one declared you saw it."</p> + +<p>The hospital appears to be a model of what such an<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span> establishment ought +to be. The wards are large, and, like the prison cells, very airy and +clean, but with a great contrast in the character of the inmates for +whose benefit they are provided. The great space which can usually be +allotted, in a country like this, to institutions of this description, +may perhaps give this hospital an advantage over one situated in the +centre of a large city like London; though the semi-insular position of +Boston must render space there comparatively valuable; but even this +cannot take away from the merit of the people in showing such attention +to the comforts of the needy sick. But what papa was most pleased with, +was the provision made, on the plan which has been often tried in +London, but never with the success it deserves, of an hospital, or home +for the better classes of the sick. In the Boston hospital, patients are +received who pay various sums up to ten dollars a week, for which they +can have a comfortable room to themselves, and the best medical advice +which the town affords. Papa and Lord R. were shown over this +institution by Dr. Shaw, who was particularly attentive and obliging in +answering all their questions.</p> + +<p>We have since been exploring the town, and are quite delighted with it. +It has none of the stiff regularity of New York, and the dwelling +houses<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span> have an air of respectable quiet comfort which is much wanted in +that city of wealth and display. The "stores" too are far more +attractive than in New York, though their way of asking you to describe +exactly what you want before they show you anything, except what is +displayed, reminded me much of France. The city is altogether very +foreign-looking in its appearance, and we are glad to think we are to +return and make a better acquaintance with it later in the month. There +is a delightful "common," as they call it, or park, which is well kept, +and much prized by the inhabitants. Some beautiful elm trees in it are +the largest we have seen in this country. Around one side are the best +dwelling houses, some of which are really magnificent. The hotel, which +is a very large one, has some beautiful public sitting rooms, greatly +larger than those at the Brevoort House at New York, which is much more +quiet in this respect; but these large rooms form an agreeable adjunct +to an hotel, as they are in general well filled by the guests in the +house, and yet sufficiently large to let each party have their own +little coterie.</p> + +<p>The character of the inhabitants for honesty seems to be called in +question by the hotel-keepers, for all over these hotels there are +alarming notices to beware<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span> of hotel thieves (probably English +pickpockets); and in Boston we were not only told to lock our doors, but +not to leave the key on the outside <i>at any time</i>, for fear it should be +stolen.</p> + +<p><i>Trenton Falls, Sept. 16th.</i>—We left Boston on Tuesday afternoon, and +got as far as Springfield, a town beautifully situated on the river +Connecticut, and celebrated for a government institution of great +importance, where they make and store up fire-arms. It is just 100 miles +from Boston, and the railway runs through a beautifully wooded country +the whole way, which made the journey appear a very short one. The +villages we passed had the same character as those between Providence +and Boston, and were, like them, built altogether of wood, generally +painted white, but occasionally varied by stone-colour, and sometimes by +a warm red or maroon colour picked out with white.</p> + +<p>Springfield lay on our way to Albany, and as we had heard much of the +beauty of the place, we were not deterred from sleeping there by being +told that a great annual horse-fair was to be held there, but to secure +rooms we telegraphed for them the day before. At the telegraph station +they took upon themselves to say, there was no room at the established +hotels, but that a new one on the "Euro<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span>pean plan" had been opened the +day before, where we could be taken in; at this we greatly rejoiced, but +to our dismay on arriving, we found its existence ignored by every one, +and we were almost in despair when we bethought ourselves to go to the +telegraph office, where we were directed to a small new <i>cabaret</i>, whose +only merit was that we, being its first occupants, found everything most +perfectly fresh and clean; but having been only opened that day, and the +town being very full, everything was in disorder, and there were but two +bedrooms for papa, myself, William, and Thrower.<a name="FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> It became an anxious +question how to appropriate them, as there was but one bed in one of the +rooms, and two in the other. However, it was finally arranged, that papa +and William should sleep in the double-bedded room, and Thrower and I +together in the single bed. We called Thrower a <i>lady</i> of the party, and +made her dine with us, for had they known she was only a "help," she +might probably have fared badly.</p> + +<p>After getting some dinner, at which the people are never at a loss in +America, any more than in France, we sallied forth to see the town, and +were exceed<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span>ingly pleased with its appearance. Nothing could be brighter +or fresher than it looked, and the flags and streamers across the +street, and general lighting up, were foreign-looking and picturesque. +Although the town is but small compared with those we had just left, the +shops were spacious and well filled, and the things in them of a good +quality. Hearing that there was a meeting at the City Hall, we went to +it, little expecting to find such a splendid room. In order to reach it, +we had to pass through a corridor, where the names of the officers of +the corporation were painted over doors on each side, and were struck +with amazement, when, at the end of this, we entered a hall, as light +and bright-looking as St. James' Hall in London, and though not perhaps +so large, still of considerable dimensions, and well proportioned. The +walls were stone-colour, and the wood-work of the roof and light +galleries were buff, picked out with the brightest scarlet. On a +platform at one end of the room were seated the Mayor of Springfield, +and many guests whom he introduced one by one to the audience in short +speeches. These worthies delivered harangues on the subject of horses +and their uses; and the speeches were really very respectable, and not +too long, but were delivered in general with a strong<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span> nasal twang. +There were persons from all parts of America; Ohio, Carolina, &c. &c.</p> + +<p>We made out our night tolerably well, and next morning went to look at +the arsenal, and depôt of arms, and were shown over the place by a +person connected with the establishment, who was most civil and obliging +in explaining the nature of all we saw. The view from the tower was most +lovely. The panorama was encircled by high hills, clothed with wood; and +the town, and many villages and churches, all of dazzling whiteness, lay +scattered before the eye. We drove next to the Horse Fair, which was +very well arranged. There was a circus of half a mile, forming a wide +carriage road, on which horses were ridden or driven, to show off their +merits. The quickest trotted at the rate of twenty miles an hour. When +the horses were driven in pairs, the driver held a rein in each hand. +There was a platform at one end filled with well-conducted people, and a +judge's seat near it. The horses in single-harness went faster even than +those in pairs: one horse, called Ethan Allen, performing about +twenty-four miles an hour; though Edward may arrive nearer than this +"about," by calculating at the rate of two minutes and thirty-seven +seconds, in which it went twice round this circle. The<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span> owner of this +horse has refused $15,000 or 3000<i>l.</i> for it. It is said to be the +fastest horse in America, and a beautiful animal, but most of the horses +were very fine. The people seemed to enjoy themselves much, and all +appeared most quiet and decorous, but the whole population surprised us +in this respect. We have seen but one drunken man since we landed. Even +in our new cabaret, the opening of which might have given occasion for a +carousal, every thing was most orderly. Our landlord, however, seemed +very full of the importance of his position, and could think and talk of +nothing but of this said cabaret. Their phraseology, is often very odd. +In the evening, he said, "Now, will you like your dinner <i>right away</i>?" +As we walked along the streets, and tried to get a room elsewhere, a man +said, smacking his hands together, "No, they are already <i>threbled</i> in +every room."</p> + +<p>But I must now tell you of our journey from Springfield to Albany: the +distance between the two is exactly 100 miles; Boston being 200 from +Albany. We left Springfield by train at twelve o'clock, and reached +Pittsfield, a distance of fifty miles, at half-past two. This part of +the road presented a succession of beautiful views. Your sisters<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span> will +remember that part of the road near Chaudes Fontaines, where it runs +through the valley, and crosses the Vesdre every five minutes. If they +can imagine this part of it extended for fifty miles, and on a much +larger scale, they may form some notion of what we saw. The railway +crossed the river at least thirty times, so we had it on the right hand +and left hand alternately, as on that little bit in Belgium. The river, +called the Westfield, was very rapid in places, and the water, when +deep, almost of a rich coffee colour. At Pittsfield we got on to the +plateau which separates the Connecticut River and the Hudson. The plain +is elevated more than 1000 feet above the sea. We then began rapidly to +descend. The country was still as pretty as before, but more open, with +hills in the back-ground, for till we reached Pittsfield these were +close to us, and beautifully wooded to the top. At Pittsfield, in the +centre of the town, there is a very large elm tree, the elm being the +great tree of the country, but this surpassed all its neighbours, its +height being 120 feet, and the stem 90 feet before any branches sprang +from it.</p> + +<p>We reached Albany at five o'clock; and a most beautiful town it is. The +great street, as well as one at right angles to it leading up to the +Capitol, is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span> wider, I think, than any street we ever saw; and the shops +on both sides are very splendid. The hotel is very large and good; but, +alas! instead of our dear darkies at Newport, we had some twenty +pale-faced damsels to wait at table, all dressed alike in pink cottons, +their bare necks much displayed in front, with large white collars, two +little frills to form the short sleeves, large, bare, clean, white arms, +and short white aprons not reaching to the knees. They had no caps, and +such a circumference of hoops! quite Yankeeish in their style; and most +careless, flirtatious-looking and impertinent in their manners. We were +quite disgusted with them; and even papa could not defend any one of +them. We were naturally very badly waited upon; they sailing +majestically about the room instead of rushing to get what we wanted, as +the niggers at Newport did. Men-servants answered the bed-room bells, +and brought our hot water; the ladies being employed only as waiters.</p> + +<p>This morning the fine weather we had hitherto enjoyed began to fail us, +as it rained in torrents. Notwithstanding this, we started at half-past +seven; passing through what in sunshine must be a lovely country, to +Utica on the New York Central Railway, and thence by a branch railway of +fifteen miles<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span> to Trenton Falls. The country was much more cultivated +than any we have yet seen. There were large fields of Indian corn, and +many of another kind, called broom corn, being grown only to make +brooms. We passed many fields of a brilliant orange-red pumpkin, which, +when cooked, looks something like mashed turnips, and is called squash: +it is very delicate and nice. But beautiful as the country was, even in +the rain, we soon found out that we had left New England and its +bright-looking wooden houses. The material of which the houses are built +remains the same; but instead of being painted, and looking trim and +neat as in New England, they consisted of the natural unpainted wood; +though twelve hours of pouring rain may have made them more +melancholy-looking than usual; for they were all of a dingy brown, and +had a look bordering on poverty and dilapidation in some instances, to +which we were quite unaccustomed.</p> + +<p>On reaching this place we found the hotel was closed for the season; but +rooms had been secured in a very fair country inn, where we had a +tolerable dinner. We were glad to see the rain gradually cease; and the +promise of a fine afternoon caused us to sally out as soon after dinner +as we could to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span> see the falls. These are very beautiful: they are formed +by a tributary of the Mohawk River, along the banks of which (of the +Mohawk itself I mean) our railway this morning passed for about forty +miles. The Erie Canal, a most celebrated work, is carried along the +other bank of the river; so that, during all this distance, the river, +the railway, and the canal were running parallel to each other, and not +a pistol shot across the three.<a name="FNanchor_3_3" id="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a> We had been warned by some Swiss +friends at Newport against carelessness and rashness in walking along +the narrow ledge cut in the face of the rock, so we took a guide and +found the pass very slippery from the heavy rain. The amiable young +guide took possession of me, and for a time I got on tolerably well, +clinging to the chain which in places was fastened against the face of +the rock; but as the path narrowed, my head began to spin, and as the +guide discouraged me, under these circumstances, from going any further, +I turned back with Thrower and regained <i>dry land</i>, while the rest of +the party were accomplishing their difficult task. They re<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span>turned much +sooner than we expected, delighted with all they had seen, though papa +said I was right not to have pursued the narrow ledge. He then took me +through a delightful wood to the head of the falls, where a seat in a +little summer-house enabled me to enjoy the lovely scene. The river +takes three leaps over rocks, the highest about 40 feet; though in two +miles the descent is 312 feet. Beautifully wooded rocks rise up on +either side; and the sunshine this afternoon lighting up the wet leaves +added to the beauty of the scene. We scrambled down from the +summer-house to the bed of the river, and walked on to the foot of the +upper fall; which, though not so high as the others, was very pretty. In +returning home we had glimpses of the falls through the trees. Many of +the firs and maples are of a great height, rising an immense way without +any branches, reminding us of the oaks at Fontainebleau.</p> + +<p>We had to change our damp clothes on our return to the inn; and after +partaking of tea-cakes, stewed pears, and honey, I am now sitting in the +public room in my white dressing-gown. This toilette, I have no doubt, +is thought quite <i>en régle</i>, for white dresses are much worn in America; +and the company here this evening is not very refined<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span> or capable of +appreciating the points in which mine may be deficient. There is dancing +at the great hotel every night in the season; but that is now over. Some +sad accidents have happened here, by falls over the precipice into the +river. The last occurred this year, when a young boy of eight, a twin +son of a family staying here, from New York, was drowned: but these +accidents, we are told, generally happen in the safest places from +carelessness. We go on, to-morrow, probably to Rochester, where there +are some pretty small falls; and on Saturday, the 17th, we hope to reach +Niagara, from whence this letter is to be posted for England.</p> + +<p>A nigger, and our guide of this afternoon, have just seated themselves +in the corner of the drawing room where I am writing, and are playing, +one the fiddle, and the other the guitar. Perhaps they are trying to get +up a "hop," later, but there do not seem materials enough for it, and +their tune is at present squeaky—jerky—with an attempt at an adagio. +The nigger is now playing "Comin' thro' the Rye," with much expression, +both of face and fiddle! Oh, such, squeaks! I wish Louisa heard them. +Here come the variations with accompaniment of guitar.—Later.—The +nigger is now singing plaintive love ditties!<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span></p> + +<p><i>International Hotel, Niagara Falls, September 18th.</i>—We had gone from +the station at Trenton to Trenton Falls in a close, lumbering, heavy +coach, which is of very ordinary use in America. But yesterday morning +we went over the same ground in an omnibus, which allowed us to see the +great beauty of the country to perfection; and, although we had +occasional heavy showers, the day was, on the whole, much more +propitious for travelling, as the atmosphere was very clear, and the +sandy dust was laid. We returned to Utica, or "Utikay," as they call it, +and, having an hour to spare, went and saw the State Lunatic Asylum; but +there was not much to remark upon it, although everything, as seems +generally the case in this country, was very orderly and well kept.</p> + +<p>The building, however, was not seen to advantage, as a very large +portion of it was burnt down last year, and the new buildings were not +entirely finished. The gentleman who showed us round was very attentive, +and gave us a report of the establishment, which shows how creditably +every one acted in the trying emergency of the fire. He gave us, also, +two numbers of a little periodical, which is written and published by +the inmates.</p> + +<p>We left Utica soon after eleven, and came on to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span> Syracuse, through a +well wooded and better cultivated country than we have yet passed. The +aspect of the country is varied by fields of Indian corn, and tracts of +burnt and charred stumps of trees, the remains of burnt forests. These +stumps are left for some time to rot in the ground, and a few taller +stems, without branches, are left standing, giving the whole a forlorn +appearance but for the thought that the land will soon be cultivated and +return a great produce; were it not for this, one would regret the loss +of the trees, which are turned everywhere here to good account. The +houses and cottages are all wood. The hurdles, used everywhere instead +of hedges, are wood. The floorings of both the large and small stations +are wood, worn to shreds, sometimes, by the tramp of feet. The engine +burns wood. The forests are burnt to get rid of the wood. Long and +enormous stacks of wood line the road continually, and often obstruct +the view. All this made our journey to Syracuse, though interesting, +much tamer than on the preceding days. An accident happened to the +boiler, which detained us at <i>Rome</i>, but, as we were luckily near the +station, we soon got another engine. On the whole, one travels with +quite as great a feeling of security as in England.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span></p> + +<p>From Syracuse to Rochester there are two roads, one short and direct, +and another, which, by taking a southern direction, passes through +Auburn, Cayuga, Geneva, and Canandaigua. We were well repaid by taking +the longer route, as the road went round the heads of the lakes, and in +one case, indeed, crossed the head of the lake where these beautiful +little towns are situated. The views of all these lakes, but especially +of lake Cayuga, and of lake Seneca on which Geneva is situated, are very +lovely. They stretch "right away" between high banks, varying from two +to five miles apart, each forming a beautiful vista, closed up by +distant blue hills at the further end. These lakes vary from thirty to +forty miles in length, and by means of steamboats form an easy +communication, though a more tedious one than the railways, between this +and the southern part of the State of New York. We had a capital +cicerone to explain all that we saw as we went along, in a Yankee, who +told us he was "raised" in these parts, though he lived in "Virginny." +He looked like a small farmer, but had a countenance of the keenest +intelligence. He told papa, before he had spoken five minutes with him, +that it was quite right a person of his intelligence should come to this +country. When we came to Auburn,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span> he quoted "'Sweet Auburn, loveliest +village of the plain;' a beautiful poem, sir, written by Goldsmith, one +of your own poets." We told him we thought of going to St. Paul, beyond +the Mississippi, when he said, "Oh yes! that's a new country—that's a +<i>cold</i> country too. If you are there in the winter, it will make you +<i>snap</i>."</p> + +<p>At Rochester we stopped for an hour to dine. We had intended to sleep +there, but none of us being tired, we changed our plan in order to come +on here last night. During this hour we went to see the Falls of the +Genessee, which in some respects surpassed Trenton, as the river is very +broad, and falls in one sheet, from a height of ninety-six feet, over a +perpendicular wall of rock. We dined, and then papa and I took a rapid +walk to the post office, to post a letter to Alfred O., at Toronto. The +streets, as usual, were very wide, with spacious "stores" running very +far back, as they all seem to do in America. I asked when the letter +would reach Toronto, and the man answered, "It ought to do so to-morrow, +but it is uncertain when it will." Papa asked our guide from the hotel +where he was "raised," (papa is getting quite a Yankee), to which he +replied, "in Ireland." I slept, wonderful to say, through part of our +journey here, in one of those<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span> most uncomfortable cars, but woke up as +we approached the station. The night was splendid (we had seen the comet +at Rochester), and the moon was so bright as to make it almost as light +as day; you may imagine our excitement when we saw, in the distance, +rising above the trees, a light cloud of mist from the Falls of +Niagara.?</p> + +<p><i>Clifton House, September 18th.</i>—Papa got into a melancholy mood at the +International Hotel yesterday evening, on account of the hotel being an +enormous one, and like a huge barrack; half of it we suspect is shut up, +for they gave us small room <i>au second</i>, though they acknowledged they +made up four hundred beds, and had only one hundred guests in the house. +The dining room was about one hundred and fifty feet long, and the hotel +was half in darkness from the lateness of the hour, and had no view of +the Falls; so papa got more and more miserable, and I could only comfort +him by reminding him we could be off to this hotel early in the morning; +for as it is the fashion to try first one side for the view, and then +the other, there was no offence in going from the United States to our +own English possessions. On this he cheered up and we went out, and the +first sight we got of this glorious river was at about eleven o'clock, +when he insisted upon my<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span> passing over the bridge to Goat Island. It was +the most lovely moonlight night conceivable, and the beams lit up the +crests of the foaming waves as they came boiling over the rapids. It was +a glorious sight, though I was rather frightened, not knowing what +perils might be in store for us.</p> + +<p>To-day we made out our move to the Canada side, and are most comfortably +lodged. Before coming to this hotel, we took a long drive down the +river, on the American side. We got out of the carriage to see the +Devil's Hole, a deep ravine, often full of water, but now dry. We stood +on a high precipice, and had a grand view of the river. The <i>river</i> is +generally passed over in silence in all descriptions of Niagara, and yet +it is one of the most lovely parts of the scene. Its colour after it has +left the Falls, and proceeds on its rapid way, full of life and +animation, to Lake Ontario, is a most tender sea green. We drove on +about six miles, and then crossed a slight suspension bridge (<i>the</i> +suspension bridge being a ponderous structure for the railroad trains to +pass over); but the one by which we crossed looked like a spider's-web; +and the view midway, whether we looked up or down, was the finest +specimen of river scenery I ever beheld. We then turned up the stream, +and came by the English side to a most<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span> wonderful whirlpool, formed by +the river making a rapid bend, and proceeding in a course at right +angles to the one it had been previously pursuing; but the violence of +the stream had caused it to proceed a long way first in the original +direction; and it was evidently not till it had scooped, or hollowed +out, a large basin, that it was forced to yield to the barrier that was +opposed to it. This is the sort of bend it takes.</p> + +<p class="center"><a name="illo_052.png" id="illo_052.png"></a><img src="images/illo_052.png" width='290' height='190' alt="Diagram of Whirlpool" /></p> + +<p>After dinner we went to deliver a letter which papa had brought for Mr. +Street, who has a house above the Falls. He was not at home; but we went +through the grounds and over a suspension bridge he has built to connect +a large island, also his property, with the mainland. There are, in +fact, not one but many islands, into which one large one has probably, +in the course of time, become divided by the raging torrent. It is just +above the Horse-Shoe Fall, in the midst of the most boisterous part of +the rapids; and it was quite sublime on looking up the river to see the +horizon formed at a considerable level above our heads by the mass of +foaming water. But now for the Falls!</p> + +<hr class='smler' /> + +<p>You must fill up this blank with your imagination,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span> for no words can +convey any idea of the scene. They far surpass anything we could have +believed of them. This, however, I write after a thorough study of them +from various points of view; for when we first caught a glimpse, in our +drive to-day, of the Fall on the American side, it disappointed us; but +from the verandah of this hotel, on which our bed-room windows open, we +had the first astounding view of the two Falls, with Goat Island +dividing them; and that sight baffles all description. The Horse-Shoe +Fall is magnificent. The curve is so graceful and beautiful; and the +mist so mysterious, rising, as it does, from the depths below, and +presenting the appearance of a moving veil as it glides past, whether +yielding to every breath of wind, or, as now, when driven quickly by a +gale; then the height of the clouds of light white mist rising above the +trees; and, above all, the delicate emerald green where the curve itself +takes place: all these elements of beauty combined, fill the mind with +wonder, when contemplating so glorious a work of God's hand; so simple, +and yet so striking and magnificent. We can gaze at the whole all day +and all night, if we please, from our own windows. The moon being nearly +full, is a <i>great</i> addition to the beauty of the scene. I have +frequently risen<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span> from my seat while writing this, to look first at the +rapids above the American Fall, lit up and shining like the brightest +silver; then at the moon on the mist, illuminating first one part of it +and then another. I must proceed with my description of our doings (if I +can) on Monday, before leaving this for Toronto, which we are to do on +Monday afternoon; but this must be posted here, and I should like to +finish my description of Niagara in this letter. We met a real Indian +to-day. He had somewhat of a Chinese cast of countenance. Perhaps we +shall see more of them. It is said that some of the black waiters in +this hotel are escaped slaves, having come to English ground for safety.</p> + +<p><i>September 19th.</i>—This being Sunday, we went to a chapel in a village +of native Indians of the Tuscarrara tribe. The chapel was about half +filled with these poor Indians and half with visitors like ourselves. +They have had a missionary among them for about fifty years, and it is +to be hoped that former missionaries talked more sense to them, and +taught them better truths, than the one we heard to-day. His sermon was +both long and tedious, and was interpreted into the Tuscarrara language +sentence by sentence as the preacher, who was a Presbyterian, delivered +it. The burden of it was their ingrati<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span>tude, not to God, but to the +Government of the United States, which had devoted an untold number of +dollars for their conversion; and he ended by a threat that this +generosity on their part would be withdrawn if they did not alter their +wicked course of life. As we were there for half an hour before the +service began, we had an opportunity of conversing with many of these +poor people, who seemed little to deserve this severe censure, for many +of them had evidently come from a distance, having brought their food +with them, and the people seemed of a quiet and harmless disposition. +Few of them seemed to understand English, and these only the men, as the +women professed, at least, not to understand papa when he tried to talk +to them. They had all of them remarkably piercing and intelligent black +eyes, but were not otherwise good looking. There were two little babies +in their mothers' arms, one in a bright yellow dress. The women wore +handkerchiefs tied over their heads, except one or two who wore round +hats and feathers. Some in hoops and crinolines! All wore bead +necklaces. They are the makers of the well-known mohair and bark and +beadwork. In the churchyard were many tombstones with English +inscriptions. The following is the copy we made of one:<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a></span>—</p> + +<p class='tbrk'> </p> + +<h3>"SEKWARIHTHICH-DEA WM. CHEW,</h3> + +<h4>GRAND SACHEM OF THE TUSCARRARA NATION OF INDIANS,</h4> + +<h4><span class="smcap">Who died Dec.</span> 16, 1857,</h4> + +<p class='center'>In the 61st year of his age.</p> + +<p class='center'>The memory of his many virtues will be embalmed in the hearts of<br /> +his people, and posterity will speak of his praise.</p> + +<p class='center'>He was a good man, and a just.</p> + +<p class='center'>He held the office of Grand Sachem 30 years, and was<br /> +Missionary Interpreter 29 years."</p> + +<p class='tbrk'> </p> + +<p>After chapel we returned to the American side of the Fall, where the +<i>table d'hôte</i> dinner was later than at the Clifton Hotel, which we had +missed. While waiting for dinner, we went again to Goat Island, and had +some splendid views of the Falls, the day being magnificent beyond all +description. Papa and William afterwards took a long walk to get a new +view of the whirlpool. Papa has made me dreadfully anxious all day by +going too close to the edges of the precipices; and as the rock is very +brittle and easily crumbles off, and as his feet often trip in walking, +you may suppose the agonies I have been in; at last I began to wish +myself and him safe in the streets of Toronto. I was not the least +frightened for myself, but it was trying to see him always looking over, +and about to lean against old crazy wooden balustrades that William said +must have<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</a></span> given way from sheer rottenness with any weight upon them. +This is <i>such</i> a night, not a single cloud; the clearest possible sky +and the moon shining brightly, as it did over the two Falls the first +night we were here. Papa calls me every minute—"Oh come, do come, this +minute; I do not believe you have ever yet seen the Falls!!!" To-morrow +we have one remaining expedition,—to go in a small steamer called the +"Maid of the Mist," which pokes her nose into the two Falls about six +times a day. The passengers are put into waterproof dresses. This I hope +to describe to you to-morrow, and shall despatch my letter before +starting for Toronto.</p> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_2_2" id="Footnote_2_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> My English maid.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_3_3" id="Footnote_3_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> The Erie Canal is one of the three great means of +communication which existed previous to the introduction of railways +between the Eastern States and those that lie to the west of the +Alleghanies; the other two being the Pennsylvania and the Baltimore and +Ohio Canals. Sections of these great works are shown on the map.</p></div> +</div> + +<hr /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="LETTER_IV" id="LETTER_IV"></a>LETTER IV.</h2> + +<blockquote><p>NIAGARA.— MAID OF THE MIST.— ARRIVAL AT +TORONTO.— TORONTO.— THOUSAND ISLANDS.— RAPIDS OF THE ST. +LAWRENCE.— MONTREAL.— VICTORIA BRIDGE.</p></blockquote> + +<p class='right'>Clifton Hotel, Falls of Niagara,<br /> +Sept. 20th, 1858. </p> + +<p>I intended to have wound up the description of Niagara in the letter I +despatched to you two hours ago, but we returned home from our +expedition this morning only five minutes before the post hour for +England, so that our packet had to be hastily closed.</p> + +<p>We had rather a chapter of accidents this morning, but all has ended +well. We went out immediately after breakfast, the weather being +splendid, though there was a high wind, and finding the mist driving +very hard, we decided on going over to the opposite shore across the +suspension bridge, rather than be ferried over to the steamer in a small +open boat, which can never, I imagine, be very pleasant in such a near +neighbourhood to the two Falls. William, however, remained on this side, +preferring the ferry, and we were to meet on the opposite bank and take<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span> +to the little steamer; but though our drive took half-an-hour and his +row five minutes, he was not at the place of rendezvous when, we +arrived, nor did he appear after we had waited for him some time. Papa +then went in a sort of open car down an inclined plane, contrived to +save the fatigue of a long stair. On getting to the bottom he saw +nothing of William, and in walking on the wet planks he slipped down and +fell on his side, and cut his face and bruised his eye; he says his eye +was within a hair's breadth of being put out by the sharp corner of a +rock. He walked up the long stair, being too giddy after his fall to +attempt the car, and he felt very headachy and unwell in consequence all +the morning. At last William made his appearance. There had been no +ferryman for a long time, and when he came he knew so little how to +manage the boat, that had not William rowed they would have been down +the river and over the rapids! At last we all four (Thrower included), +started down the inclined plane to the steamer, and were warned by +papa's tumble to take care of our footing. It might easily be made a +more pleasant landing-place than it is by means of their everlasting +wood. We got on to the "Maid of the Mist," and were made to take off our +bonnets and hats, and put on a sort of waterproof capuchin cloak<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</a></span> and +hood, and up we went on deck. In one moment we were drenched; the deck +was a running sea, and the mist drove upon us much harder than pouring +rain. I went there with a cold, and if it gets no worse, shall think +fresh water is as innocuous as salt. It was quite a question whether the +thing was worth doing: the day was probably unfavourable, as the mist +drove on us instead of the other way, but some parts were very fine. We +returned to the same landing-place, as they most stupidly have none on +this side; so up we went again in the open cars, and on landing we had +our photographs done twice with views of the Falls as a background. They +were very well and rapidly done. We then drove William towards the Cave +of the Winds, which is a passage behind what looks from these windows a +mere thread of a waterfall, but is really a very considerable one. +Ladies, however, perform this feat as well as gentlemen, but they have +entirely to change their dress—it is like walking through a great +shower-bath to a <i>cul de sac</i> in the rock. Circular rainbows are seen +here, and William saw two; he seemed to be standing on one which made a +perfect circle round him. A certificate was given him of his having +accomplished this feat. While he was doing this we bought a few things +made by the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</a></span> Indians and the Shakers, and then met William, and hurried +home in time only to sign and despatch our letters to England. We then +dined, and I am now obliged suddenly to stop short in writing, as my +despatch-box must be packed, for we leave this at half-past four for +Toronto.</p> + +<p><i>Rossin House, Toronto, Sept. 21st.</i>—Our journey here yesterday was not +through as pretty a country as usual, and this part of Canada strikes us +as much tamer than anything we have yet seen in America. We changed +trains at Hamilton and remained there nearly an hour. Sir Allan McNab +has a country house in the neighbourhood, said to be a very pretty one, +and we shall probably go in the train to-morrow to see him. The +railroad, for some time towards the end of our journey yesterday, ran +along the shore of Lake Ontario. The sky was pure and clear, with the +moon shining brightly on the waters of the quiet lake. It was difficult +to believe that the immense expanse of water was not salt. It looked so +like the sea, especially when within a few miles of Toronto we saw tiny +waves and minute pebbles and sand, which gave it an appearance of a +miniature sea beach. Had I not been on a railway when I saw these small +pebbles, I should have picked up some for you, and I think you would +have valued<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</a></span> them as much as your cornelians at Cromer. I searched for +them later, and never came up with such a pretty pebbly beach again.</p> + +<p><i>Montreal, Sept. 25th.</i>—Unhappily this sheet has been packed up by +mistake for some days, and I have not been able to go on with my +journal, but I resume it this evening, for it must be despatched to you +the day after to-morrow.</p> + +<p>We passed the 22nd and 23rd at Toronto, and had much pleasure there in +seeing a great deal of the Alfred O.'s, and their very nice children, +and it was quite touching to see the pleasure our visit gave them. We +had the sorrow, however, of parting from William, who left us on the +morning of the 23rd for the Far West. He went with Mr. Latham and Mr. +Kilburn, and it was a very great comfort to us that he had such pleasant +companions, instead of travelling such a distance alone. We had an early +visit at Toronto from Mr. and Mrs. W., friends of the O.'s: they begged +us so earnestly to remain over the 23rd to dine with them, that we +consented to do so. Toronto is a most melancholy-looking place. It has +suffered in the "crisis," and the consequence is that wide streets seem +to have been begun but never finished, giving the town a very disastrous +look. There is one wide handsome street with good<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span> shops, and our hotel +was an enormous one; but when this is said, there is little more to add +about it, for it looks otherwise very forlorn, and altogether the town +is the least inviting one we have yet seen in our travels.</p> + +<p>In the course of our drive we had an opportunity of seeing the interiors +of some of the houses, many of which display considerable wealth; the +rooms being large, and filled with ornaments of every sort. The ladies +dress magnificently; a handsome coral brooch is often worn, and is +almost an infallible sign, both here and in the United States, of a tour +to Italy having been accomplished; indeed I can feel nearly as certain +that the wearer has travelled so far, by seeing her collar fastened with +it, as if she told me the fact, and many such journeys must have been +performed, judging by the number of coral brooches we see.</p> + +<p>We did little the first day but drive about the streets. We drank tea at +the A. O.'s, and the next day they took us to see one very beautiful +sight; the New University, which is in course of building, and is the +most beautiful structure we have seen in America. Indeed it is the only +one which makes the least attempt at Mediæval architecture, and is a +very correct specimen of the twelfth century. The<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span> funds for building +this university arise out of the misappropriation (by secularising them) +of the clergy reserves; the lands appropriated to the college giving +them possession of funds to the amount of about three hundred thousand +pounds. Of this the building, it is supposed, will absorb about one +hundred and twenty thousand pounds, and they propose to lay out a large +sum to increase an already very good library, which is rich in works on +natural history and English topography. Dr. McCaul, who is the president +of the college, is a brother of the preacher in London.</p> + +<p>We dined at the W.'s on the evening of the 23rd. Their house is very +large, having been lately added to, and the town being very busy, +preparing for an Agricultural Meeting, the upholsterer had not time to +put down the carpets or put up the curtains, and the night being cold, +we felt a little twinge of what a Canadian winter is; but the +drawing-rooms were exceedingly pretty,—the walls being very light +stucco, with ornaments in relief, and they were brilliantly lighted. We +were eighteen at dinner, the party including the O.'s, the Mayor, Dr. +and Mrs. McCaul, and Sir Allan McNab, who had come from his +country-place to meet us. The dinner was as well appointed, in all +respects, as if it had<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span> taken place in London. In the evening Mrs. W. +sang "Where the bee sucks" most beautifully. Papa encored it, and was +quite delighted at hearing so favourite a song so well sung. The +mayoress also sang, and so did another lady. The furniture of the rooms +was of American oak and black walnut, which are favourite woods; but we +did not much admire them. When we were leaving, Mrs. W. showed us her +bed-room, which was really splendid,—so spacious, and so beautifully +furnished; there was a bath-room near it, and other bed-rooms also of +large dimensions. We drove back to our hotel in the moonlight, so bright +and clear that it was difficult not to suppose it daylight, except that +the planets were so brilliant.</p> + +<p>We took leave that night of the O.'s, as we had to make an early start +next day, and were very sorry to part from them. On the 24th, we were +off at eight in the morning by train to Kingston, arriving there early +in the afternoon. It is the best sleeping-place between Toronto and +Montreal. The road was uninteresting, though at times we came upon the +broad waters of the lake, which varied the scenery. We had an excellent +dinner at the station, and I ought to mention, that as we were +travelling on the Grand Trunk Railway, and on English soil, we had<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</a></span> +first class carriages; there being both first and second class on this +line, but varying only in the softness of the seats. There was no other +difference from other lines.</p> + +<p>Kingston is a prosperous little town on the borders of the lake, and the +hotel quite a small country inn. We drove out to see the Penitentiary, +or prison, for the whole of the Two Canadas,—a most massive stone +structure. I never was within prison-walls before, so that I cannot +compare it with others; but, though papa had much admired the prison at +Boston, he preferred the principle of giving the prisoners work in +public (which is the case at Kingston), to the solitary system at +Boston. We saw the men hard at work making furniture, and in the +blacksmith's forge, and making an enormous quantity of boots; they work +ten hours a day in total silence, and all had a subdued look; but we +were glad to think they had employment, and could see each other. Their +food is excellent,—a good meat diet, and the best bread. The +sleeping-places seemed to us dreadful little solitary dens, though the +man who showed us over them said they were better than they would have +had on board ship. There were sixty female prisoners employed in making +the men's clothes, but these we were not allowed to see. One lady is +per<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a></span>mitted to visit them, in order to give them religious instruction, +but they do not otherwise see the visitors to the prison. There are +prisoners of all religious denominations, a good many being Roman +Catholics; and there are chaplains to suit their creeds, and morning and +evening prayers.</p> + +<p>We walked back to Kingston, and on the walls observed notices of a +meeting to be held in the town that evening, to remonstrate against the +work done by the prisoners, which is said to injure trade; but, as we +were to make a very early start in the morning, we did not go to it.</p> + +<p>We were called at half-past four to be ready for the boat which started +at six for Montreal. It was a rainy morning, and I awoke in a rather +depressed state of mind, with the prospect before me of having to +descend the rapids of the St. Lawrence in the steamer; and as the +captain of our vessel in crossing the Atlantic had said, he was not a +little nervous at going down them, I thought I might be so too. We had +first, however, to go through the Thousand Islands, which sounds very +romantic, but turned out rather a failure. There are in reality about +1,400 of these islands, where the river St. Lawrence issues from Lake +Ontario. The morning was unpropitious, it being very rainy, and this, no +doubt,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</a></span> helped to give them a dismal appearance. They are of all forms +and sizes, some three miles long, and some hardly appearing above the +water. The disappointment to us was their flatness, and their all being +alike in their general aspect, being covered with light wood. When this +is lit up by the sun, they are probably very pretty, as we experienced +later in the day, which turned out to be a most brilliant one. The +islands are generally uninhabited, except by wild ducks, deer, foxes, +raccoons, squirrels, musk-rats, and minxes, and also by partridges in +abundance. We have tasted the wild duck, which is very good.</p> + +<p>About one o'clock in the day we lost sight of the islands, except a few, +which occasionally are scattered along the river; we had no longer +however to thread our way among them, as we had done earlier in the day. +Dinner was at two, but we were not much disposed to go down, for we had +just passed one rapid, and were coming to the finest of all, the Cedars; +but they turned out to be by no means alarming to an unpractised eye. +The water is much disturbed, and full of small crests of waves. There +were four men at the wheel, besides four at the tiller, and they had no +doubt to keep a sharp look out; we stood on deck, and received a good +sea in our faces, and were much excited by the scene.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</a></span> The longest rapid +occupied us about twenty minutes, being nine miles long. It is called +the Long Sault. The banks on either side continued flat; we stopped +occasionally at pretty little villages to take in passengers or wood, +but these stoppages told much against our progress, and the days now +being short, we were informed that the vessel could not reach Montreal +that night. There is a rapid a few miles above Montreal, which is the +most dangerous of them all, and cannot be passed in the dark. The boat, +therefore, stopped at La Chine for the night, and we had our choice of +sleeping on board or landing and taking the train for eight miles to +Montreal; and as we had seen all the rest of the rapids, and did not +feel much disposed for the pleasure of a night in a small cabin, we +decided on landing. We had tea first, with plenty of cold meat on the +table, and the fare was excellent on board, with no extra charge for it.</p> + +<p>Before landing we had a most magnificent sunset. The sun sank at the +stern of the vessel; and the sky remained for an hour after in the most +exquisite shades of colouring, from clear blue, shading to a pale green, +and then to a most glorious golden colour. The water was of the deepest +blue, and the great width of the noble river added to the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</a></span> grandeur of +the scene. The Canadian evenings and nights are surpassingly beautiful. +The atmosphere is so light, and the colouring of the sunset and the +bright light of the moon are beyond all description. We made +acquaintance with a couple of Yankees on board, who amused us much. They +were a young couple, travelling, they said, for pleasure. They looked of +the middle class, and were an amusing specimen of Yankee vulgarity. The +lady's expression for admiration was "ullegant:" the dinner was +"ullegant," the sunset was "ullegant," and so was the moonrise, and so +were the corn-cakes and corn-pops <i>fixed</i> by herself or her mother. She +was delighted with the bead bracelet I was making, and I gave her a +pattern of the beads. She was astonished to find that the English made +the electric cable. She and her husband mean to go to England and +Scotland in two years. I was obliged to prepare her for bad hotels and +thick atmosphere, at both of which she seemed astonished. She was also +much surprised that she would not find Negro waiters in London. They +remained on board for the night; and on meeting her in the street +yesterday, she assured us the last rapid was "ullegant," and that we had +missed much in not seeing it.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</a></span></p> + +<p>We arrived at Montreal at eight o'clock on the evening of the 24th, and +walked a little about the town. The moon was so bright that colours +could be clearly distinguished. We yesterday spent many hours on the +Victoria bridge which is building here across the river in connection +with the Grand Trunk Railway. It is a most wonderful work, and I must +refer you to an interesting article in the last <i>Edinburgh Review</i> for a +full account of it. Papa had letters to the chief officials of the +railway, which procured us the advantage of being shown the work in +every detail by Mr. Hodges (an Englishman), who has undertaken the +superintendence of it—the plans having been given him by Stephenson. +The expense will be enormous—about a million and a quarter sterling; +almost all raised in England. The great difficulties to be contended +with are:—the width of the river—it being two miles wide at this +point; its rapidity—the current running at the rate of seven miles an +hour; and the enormous masses of ice which accumulate in the river in +the winter; rising as high sometimes as the houses on either side, and +then bursting their bounds and covering the road. The stone piers are +built with a view to resist as much as possible this pressure; and a +great number of them are finished, and have<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</a></span> never yet received a +scratch from the ice, which is satisfactory. Their profile is of this +form. And this knife-like edge cuts the ice through as it passes down +the river, enabling the blocks to divide at the piers and pass under the +bridge on each side. The piers are built of limestone, in blocks varying +from eight to ten feet high: but in sinking a foundation for them, +springs are frequently met with under some large boulders in the bed of +the river, and this causes great delay, as the water has to be pumped +out before the building can proceed. The bridge will be an iron tubular +one; the tubes come out from Birkenhead in pieces, and are riveted +together here. We first rowed across the river with Mr. Hodges in a +six-oared boat; and the day being warm and very fine, we enjoyed it +much. This gave us some idea of the breadth of the river and of the +length of the bridge, of which it is impossible to judge when seen +fore-shortened from the shore.</p> + +<p class="center"><a name="illo_072.png" id="illo_072.png"></a><img src="images/illo_072.png" width='197' height='173' alt="Profile of bridge pier" /></p> + +<p>We then mounted the bridge and were astonished at the magnitude of the +work. There is an immense forest of woodwork underneath most of it at +present, but they are glad to clear this away as fast as the progress of +the upper work admits, as if left till<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</a></span> winter the force of the ice cuts +through these enormous beams as if they were straw. We could only +proceed across two piers at the end furthest from the town, but here we +had a very fine view of Montreal, lying at the foot of the hill from +which it takes its name. It has many large churches, the largest being +the Roman Catholic cathedral, and the tin roofs of the houses and +churches glittered in the sun and gave a brilliant effect. We returned +to the boat and rowed again across the river below the bridge, and here, +owing to the strength of the current our boat had to pursue a most +zig-zag path, pulling up under the eddy of each buttress, but our +boatmen knew well what they were about, as they are in the habit of +taking Mr. Hodges daily to the bridge and it was very pretty to hear the +warning of <i>doucement! doucement!</i> from the helmsman as we approached +any peril. Mr. H. said that without the familiarity they had with the +river, the boat would in an instant be carried down the stream and out +of all control. The French language is much more spoken than the +English, there being a large body of French Roman Catholic Canadians +here and at Quebec. I say this to account for the <i>doucement</i>; but must +now leave this wonderful bridge, and tell you that after seeing it we +drove to the Bishop of Montreal's.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</a></span> We found him and Mrs. Fulford at +home, and sat some time with them, and they asked us to drink tea with +them, which we did. There was no one there but ourselves, and we passed +an agreeable evening with them, and came home by moonlight with the +comet also beaming on us.</p> + +<p><i>September 27th.</i>—We went yesterday morning to a small church in the +suburbs where the bishop preached. We found Lord and Lady Radstock in +the hotel, and papa walked with him in the afternoon, and endeavoured to +learn something of the Christian Young Men's Association here. They +found the secretary at home, and from him learnt that the revivals of +religion here have lately been of a satisfactory nature, and that there +is a great deal of religious feeling at work among the middle classes. I +forgot to mention that on Saturday we met a long procession of nuns +going to the church of Notre Dame, which gave the place a very foreign +look. We went into the church for a few minutes. It was very large, part +of it was well filled, and a French sermon going on. There are a good +many convents here, and I shall try to visit one. The Jesuits are said +to be very busy. We hear French constantly spoken in the streets. We +went to church again<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</a></span> yesterday evening, when the bishop preached on the +text, "Demas hath forsaken me."</p> + +<p>To-day we took Lord and Lady Radstock to Mr. Hodges, who promised to +show them over the bridge, and since that papa and I have had a pleasant +drive round the mountain. From one part we had a good view of the Ottawa +river, celebrated by Moore, who wrote his Canadian boat song in a canoe +on the rapids of that river. The town of Ottawa has been named by the +Queen as the seat of Government; but after consulting her on the +subject, the inhabitants seem disinclined to take her advice. The views +were very pretty, and the day warm and pleasant. As we drove we +frequently saw on the walls, large placards with a single text in French +or English, an evidence of the work of the revival going on here. We +wound up our visit to Montreal by buying some furs, this being the best +place to get them: they are to be shipped from here in a sailing vessel, +and therefore will not reach London for some time, but notice will be +sent of their coming; so be on the look out for them some day. We are +off this afternoon for Quebec, where we hope to find some good news from +you all. So adieu, my dear child.</p> + +<hr /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="LETTER_V" id="LETTER_V"></a>LETTER V.</h2> + +<blockquote><p>JOURNEY FROM MONTREAL TO QUEBEC.— QUEBEC.— FALLS OF +MONTMORENCY.— ISLAND POND.— WHITE MOUNTAINS.— PORTLAND.— RETURN TO +BOSTON.— HARVARD UNIVERSITY.— NEWHAVEN.— YALE UNIVERSITY.— RETURN +TO NEW YORK.</p></blockquote> + +<p class='right'>Portland Maine, Sept. 29th, 1858.</p> + +<p>I closed my last letter to you at Montreal, since which we have been +travelling so much that I have had no time for writing till to-night. I +must now, therefore, endeavour to resume the thread of my narrative, +though it is a little perplexing to do so after going over so much +ground as we have done lately in a short space of time.</p> + +<p>We left Montreal early in the afternoon of the 27th, in company with Mr. +and Mrs. Bailey. He is one of the managers of the Grand Trunk Railway, +and came with us as far as Quebec, as a sort of guard of honour or +escort, papa having been specially commended to the care of the +<i>employés</i> on this line. Both he and his wife are English. We crossed +the St.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</a></span> Lawrence in a steam-ferry to join the railway, and as long as +it was light we had a most delightful journey through a highly +cultivated country, covered with small farms, which came in quick +succession on both sides of the road. These farms are all the property +of French Canadians, and on each one there is a wooden dwelling-house, +with barns and out-houses attached to it, and the land runs down from +the front of the tenement to the railroad. There is no hedge to be seen +anywhere, and these long strips of fields looked very like allotment +lands in England, though on a larger scale. These proprietors have been +possessors of the soil from the time of the first settlement of the +French in Canada, and the farms have suffered from the subdivision of +property consequent on the French law of succession. They are so close +together that, when seen at a distance, the houses look like a +continuous line of street as far as the eye can reach, but we soon lost +sight of them in the obscurity occasioned by forests and the approach of +night. We passed many log huts, which, though very rude, do not seem +uncomfortable dwellings.</p> + +<p>We saw little of the country as we approached Quebec, and were conscious +only of crossing the Chaudière river and of going along its banks for +some way, and afterwards along those of the St. Law<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</a></span>rence, till we +reached Point Levi, opposite Quebec. Here we got into a steamer to cross +the river, and from the steamer we had a grand view of the citadel and +town of Quebec, the tin spires shining jointly with the moon and the +comet; for we beg to say we do not require telescopes of high power, as +we see by the papers you do in England, to detect the latter luminary, +which really does look here almost as if it added to the light of the +night. Papa and I differ greatly as to the length of its tail. I say it +looks two yards long, but papa says it is difficult to tell this, but +that it is really about a degree and a half in length, or about six +diameters of the moon. The nucleus is larger and brighter than any star +in the Great Bear, and these are all bright here to a degree of which +you can form no idea. The planets look as large as fourpenny-pieces. +Papa has made me reduce them to this estimate, as I originally said as +large as sixpences; but he questions altogether my appreciation of the +size of the heavenly bodies, which do all seem wonderfully large to my +eyes.</p> + +<p>On reaching the north side of the river, on which Quebec stands, we got +into an omnibus and drove up streets of a most tremendous ascent; it was +really quite alarming, as the pavement was in the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</a></span> most dreadful state, +and the omnibus, which was very rickety, was crammed with passengers. +Next morning we got up very early, and papa went out before breakfast to +inquire for the letters which we expected to receive from England, but +which had not yet arrived.</p> + +<p>After an early breakfast we went in an open carriage to the Falls of +Montmorency, and I think I never had a more lovely drive. We passed +through several most prosperous-looking villages, and between farm +houses so closely adjoining each other as to give the appearance of a +long suburb to the city. At Beauport, about half-way between Quebec and +Montmorency, there is a splendid Roman Catholic church, which would do +credit to any country. The inhabitants here and at Quebec generally are +entirely French Canadians, and the driver here, as at Montreal, was +quite in the Coharé<a name="FNanchor_4_4" id="FNanchor_4_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a> style for intelligence and respectable +appearance. The falls of Montmorency are a little way off the road, and +the approach to the top of the fall down a flight of wooden stairs is +very easy. The river here descends in one great fall of 250 feet, and as +the river is 60 feet wide, the proportion between the height and the +breadth<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</a></span> of the fall seems nearly perfect. It falls almost into the St. +Lawrence, as it tumbles over the very bank of the latter river, and the +view up and down the glorious St. Lawrence is here very beautiful. We +were elevated so far above the bottom of the chasm that the spray +apparently rose up only a short way, but it really does rise upwards of +150 feet, and in winter it freezes and forms a cone of ice exceeding 100 +feet in height, which is said to present a most wonderful appearance.</p> + +<p>Returning to Quebec we had a splendid view of the town. The fortress on +Cape Diamond seemed to jut out into the river, along the banks of which, +and rising to a great height above it, the town lay in all its glory. +The tops of the houses and the spires of the churches are covered with +tin, and from the dryness of the atmosphere it looks as fresh and +polished as if just put up. The sun was shining splendidly, and the +effect was almost dazzling. This and the richness of the intervening +country produced an impression which it would be difficult to efface +from the memory. The citadel, I should think, is hardly as high as the +castles of Edinburgh or Stirling, but in this country everything (even +to the heavenly bodies!!!) is on such a scale that it is not easy to +draw comparisons. The guide book, how<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</a></span>ever, says that the rock rises 350 +feet perpendicularly from the river, so that by looking at some of your +books of reference, you may find out which is the highest. The approach +is from the town behind, by a zig-zag road, and the fortifications seem +very formidable and considerable, though papa says greatly inferior to +Gibraltar, or to Malta, which it more strongly resembles as a work of +art.</p> + +<p>Mr. Baily procured us an order for admission, so that we went to the +highest point, and the view up and down the river was truly magnificent. +A little below the town it is divided by an island of considerable size, +and as the river takes a bend here, it is rather difficult to make out +its exact course. The town is situated at the junction of the St. +Lawrence and the St. Charles, and as the latter forms a large bay or +estuary at the confluence, the whole has a very lake-like appearance.</p> + +<p>We left the citadel at the gate opposite the one at which we entered, +and getting out upon the plains of Abraham, saw the monument erected on +the spot where Wolfe fell; close to it is an old well from which water +was brought to him to relieve his thirst after he had received his +mortal wound. Another monument is erected within the citadel, in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</a></span> what +is called the Governor's Garden. This is raised to the joint memories of +Wolfe and the French general, Montcalm, who was also mortally wounded in +the same action. From the plains of Abraham there is a beautiful view up +the river, and here, as on the other side of the town, the country at a +distance is studded with farm houses. In a circuit we made of two or +three miles in the vicinity of the town, we passed a number of really +splendid villas belonging to English residents, but with this exception +all seemed much more French than English, excepting that in <i>la vieille +France</i> we never saw such order, cleanliness, and comfort, nor could +these be well surpassed in any country.</p> + +<p>The small farmers here live entirely upon the produce of their farms; +they knit their own stockings, and weave their own grey coarse cloth. We +looked into several of their houses, and the extreme cleanliness of +every little corner of their dwellings was wonderful. The children seem +very healthy and robust-looking. The whole population talk French. The +crosses by the roadside proclaim them to be Roman Catholics, and the +extensive convents in the town tend doubtless to the promotion of the +temporal comforts of the poorer inhabitants. The principal church was +richly decorated with gilding up<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</a></span> to the roof, and the gold, from the +dryness of the climate, was as bright as if newly laid on.</p> + +<p>The extreme clearness of the air of Canada contributed, no doubt, +greatly to the beauty of everything we saw, though we found the cold +that accompanied it rather sharper than we liked. Mrs. Baily told me +that it is a curious sight to see the market in the winter, everything +being sold in a frozen state. The vegetables are dug up in the beginning +of winter, and are kept in cellars and from thence brought to market. A +month's consumption can be bought at a time, without the provisions +spoiling, as all remains frozen till it is cooked. The sheep and pigs +are seen standing, as if alive, but in a thoroughly frozen state. The +winter lasts from November till April. Sleighing is the universal and +only mode of travelling. The sleighs, which are very gay, are covered +with bells, and the travellers in them are usually clothed in expensive +furs. Pic-nics are carried on in the winter, to arrange which committees +are formed, each member inviting his friends till the parties often +number 100. They then hire a large room for dancing, and the guests +dress themselves in their ball dresses, and then envelope themselves in +their furs, and start at six in the evening for their ball, frequently +driving in their sleighs for several miles<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</a></span> by moonlight to the place of +rendezvous. Open sleighs are almost always used for evening parties, and +apparently without any risk, although the evening dress is put on before +starting. There is great danger without care of being frost-bitten +during a Canadian winter, but it must be a very gay and pretty sight to +see sleighs everywhere, and all seem to enjoy the winter much, though +the cold is very intense.</p> + +<p>We left Quebec early in the afternoon of the 28th, having called at the +post-office on our way to the train, and got our English letters. We now +passed during the day what we missed seeing the night before, on our +approach to Quebec. In crossing the Chaudière we could see the place +where this large river plunges over a perpendicular rock 130 feet high, +and the river being here very broad, the falls must be very fine, but +though we passed close above them, we could only distinguish the +difference of level between the top and the bottom, and see the cloud of +spray rising above the whole. The road till night-fall passed chiefly +through forest lands. The stations were good, though sometimes very +small, and at one of the smallest the station-master was the son of an +English clergyman.</p> + +<p>At Richmond we parted company with the Bailys<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</a></span> and got on to Island +Pond, where we slept at a large and most comfortable hotel. From +Richmond the road passes through a very pretty country, but its beauties +were lost upon us, as the night was very dark and there was no moon. +This also caused us to miss seeing the beauties of Island Pond on our +arrival there, but we were fully repaid by the sight which greeted our +eyes in the morning, when we looked out of our window. The Americans +certainly have grand notions of things, this Island Pond being a lake of +considerable dimensions studded with beautiful islands, and surrounded +on all sides by finely wooded hills, up which the heavy mist rose half +way, presenting the appearance we have so often seen in Switzerland, of +hills apparently rising out of a frozen ocean. The mist too, covering +the surface of the water, gave it a snow-like look, and altogether the +sight was very lovely. The road from this to Gorham was most +interesting, being down the course of the Androscoggan river through a +very wide valley, with high hills on both sides.</p> + +<p>We left the train at the Alpine House at Gorham, to take a peep at the +White Mountains. We were kept waiting some little time at Gorham, while +the wheels of the <i>buggy</i>, that was to take us to the foot of Mount +Washington, were being examined. This<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</a></span> vehicle was a sort of +double-bodied pony chair, of a very rickety description, the front seat +being contrived to turn over, so as to make more room for those at the +back to get in and out, the consequence was that it was always disposed, +even with papa's weight upon it, to turn over, and throw him upon the +horses' tails. Thrower and I sat behind, and papa and the driver in the +front, and I held on tightly by the back, which had the double advantage +of keeping me in, and of preventing his tumbling out. We had two capital +horses, and were driven for eight miles by the side of a mountain +torrent called by the unromantic name of the Peabody River. The woods +through which we passed were extremely pretty, and the torrent was our +companion throughout the drive. The road was of the roughest possible +description, over large boulders and up and down hills. The only wonder +was, that we were not tossed out of our carriage and into the torrent. +The leaves were beginning to turn, and some of the foliage was extremely +beautiful, particularly that of the moosewood, the large leaf of which +turns to a rich mulberry colour. We picked several of them to dry.</p> + +<p>On reaching the Glen House, we found ourselves in front of a very large +hotel, standing in an amphi<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</a></span>theatre of mountains. These are called by +the names of the presidents, Washington, Monroe, Adams, Jefferson, and +Madison. Washington is 6500 feet high, and seven others, which form a +continuous line of peaks, are higher than Ben Nevis. Although snow has +fallen this year, they seem free from snow just now, but they all have a +white appearance from the greyish stone of which they are formed, and +hence the name of the White Mountains. We went a short way up the ascent +to Mount Washington, and judging from this beginning, the road up the +mountain must be very beautiful. For two-thirds of the height they are +covered with splendid forest trees. When, at this season, the leaves are +changing in places to a deep crimson, the effect is very fine. The upper +part of these mountains seems to consist of barren rocks. We returned +and dined at the Alpine House. Both papa and I were seriously frightened +in our walks, especially at the Glen House, by encountering three +savage-looking bears. Luckily before we had shouted for help, we +discovered they were chained, but the first being exactly in a path we +were trying to walk along, really alarmed us.</p> + +<p>We left Gorham for Portland at about four o'clock. The road the greater +part of the way is perfectly<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</a></span> beautiful. It continued along the course +of the Androscoggan, with the White Mountains on one side, and with a +range, which to our eyes appeared quite as high, on the other. When we +left the river, the road was diversified by passing several large lakes, +one of which, called Bryant's Pond, resembled Island Pond in beauty.</p> + +<p><i>October 1st.</i>—We got up betimes yesterday to see Portland, which it +was too late to do to any purpose on the evening of our arrival. Papa +delivered his letter to Mr. Miller, the agent here of the Grand Trunk +Railway, and he accompanied us on the heights, from which we were able +to look down upon the town and its noble harbour—the finest in the +United States. As it is here that the Leviathan is destined to come if +she ever does cross the Atlantic, they have, at a great expense, made a +wharf to receive her. The harbour is entirely land-locked and studded +with islands. The day was very fine, but not so clear as the day before, +or we should have seen the White Mountains, which are clearly visible +from this, although sixty miles distant in a right line. The city is +very beautiful, and, like all the New England towns, most clean and well +conditioned. Each street is embellished by avenues of elm trees<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</a></span> of a +larger size than we have yet seen in America, with the exception of +those in the park of Boston.</p> + +<p>We had here an opportunity of witnessing a very pretty sight, which was +the exercising of the Fire Companies, of which there are nine in this +town. Each Company had an engine as clean and bright as if it had just +come out of the maker's hands, and the firemen attached to them were +dressed in uniforms, each of a different colour. Long ropes were +fastened to these engines, by which the men drew them along. To each +engine there was also attached a brigade of men, wearing helmets, and +fire-proof dresses. They seemed altogether a fine body of men. We did +not wait to see the result of the trial, as to which engine could pump +furthest, which, with a reward of $100 to be given to the successful +engine, was the object of their practising. These Fire Companies seem to +be a great "Institution" everywhere in the United States, the troop at +New York having figured greatly in the Cable rejoicings. The companies +of different towns are in the habit of paying visits to each other, when +great fêtes take place, and much good-fellowship is shown. Fires are +very frequent in the great towns, but the means of extinguishing them +must be great in proportion, judging from what we have seen here. These +companies<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</a></span> are said to be very well organised, and as they act as a +police also, very little pilfering takes place. Mr. Miller afterwards +took us to a part of the suburbs to show us some very pretty villas, +with gardens more cared for than any we have yet seen.</p> + +<p>We left Portland in the afternoon. There are two railways from Portland +to Boston, and we selected the lower or sea-coast road. The country was +not very pretty, the shore being flat, but as we approached the seaports +of Portsmouth, Newburyport, and Salem, the views improved, especially in +the neighbourhood of Portsmouth, which stands on a neck of land jutting +far into the sea. There was a great deal of hay standing on meadows +which were flooded by the sea water; to protect the stacks, they were +built upon platforms supported by stone pillars, which had a curious +effect. The crops seemed very abundant, for the stacks were large and +close together and spread over a wide area. The quality of this salted +hay is said to be good, and the animals like it very much.</p> + +<p>We got to Boston late last night, and to-day papa paid a long visit to +Judge Curtis, and we went afterwards on a railway, drawn by horses, to +see the famous Harvard University, in the town of Cambridge, which lies +about four miles to the west of Boston.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[Pg 91]</a></span> When Mr. Jared Sparkes, the +late president, was in England, papa, at Mr. Morgan's request, gave him +letters to Cambridge, and upon the strength of this we called on him and +were most graciously received by Mrs. Sparkes, who entertained us till +Mr. Sparkes returned from Boston. He is a very pleasing and intelligent +man; before parting they gave us letters to Professor Silliman, of the +sister University of Yale, at New Haven. We met here too Mr. and Mrs. +Stevens, who accompanied us back to Boston, and loaded us with +introductions to the same place.</p> + +<p>The town of Cambridge occupies a good deal of ground, for the so-called +streets are avenues of beautiful trees, with villas interspersed between +them. In an open space in the centre of the town, there is a most +magnificent tree, called the Washington Elm, noted, not only for its +size, but for its being historically connected with Washington. There is +a large library belonging to the college; and the college is in every +way very flourishing; but as we mean to return here again, we did not +think it worth while now to see it in detail.<a name="FNanchor_5_5" id="FNanchor_5_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a></p> + +<p><i>October 2nd.</i>—Papa went last night to a meeting, which is held every +night for prayer, at the Young<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[Pg 92]</a></span> Men's Christian Association, and was +extremely pleased with what he saw and heard. He was there for half an +hour before the prayers began. These lasted from nine till ten. Papa was +placed in the seat of honour, in a chair beside the President, and was +asked by him to address the meeting; but he got out of it by saying that +he came to listen and not to speak, and added only a few words on the +great interest with which these revivals in America were looked upon in +England. He was very much interested with the whole of the proceedings, +which were conducted with extreme moderation and right feeling.</p> + +<p>To-day we made an early start, and at first went over the ground which +we travelled when we left Boston for Niagara; but instead of leaving the +Connecticut river at Springfield, as we did on that occasion, we +followed its course to Hartford, and finally came on to New Haven, from +which place I am now writing.</p> + +<p>We arrived at two o'clock, and, after getting some food, called on +Professor Silliman, who took us over the University, and showed us the +museum, where there are some wonderful foot-prints on slabs of rock, +which have been found in this country. There is also here one of the +largest meteoric stones that is known. In the library there are many +books which<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[Pg 93]</a></span> were given to it by Bishop Berkeley, whose memory seems as +much respected here as it is at Newport.</p> + +<p><i>October 3rd.</i>—Professor Silliman called on us this morning at ten +o'clock, and brought with him Mr. Sheffield, an influential person in +this neighbourhood, and a great patron of the University. As Mr. +Sheffield was an Episcopalian, he took us to his church, where we heard +a most striking sermon, and afterwards received the Communion. The +number of communicants was very large. We are very much struck at seeing +how well Sunday is observed in America. There are about thirty churches +in New Haven, and they are all, we are told, well filled. These churches +are of various denominations; but there seems a total want of anything +like a parochial system.</p> + +<p>Papa went afterwards to the College chapel, or rather church, where the +young men attached to the University were assembled in the body of the +building. Papa was in the gallery, which is appropriated to the +Professors and their families. There are no less than forty-one +Professors at Yale, including those of theology, law, and medicine, +which are all studied here.</p> + +<p>The sciences take greatly the lead over the classics. When we remarked +to Professor Silliman<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[Pg 94]</a></span> how great the proportion of scientific Professors +seemed to be, he said the practical education which was given in this +country, rendered this more necessary than in England, where men have +more time and leisure for literary pursuits. This is no doubt the case, +and in this country the devotion of every one's time and talents to +money-making is much to be regretted, for it is the non-existence of a +highly educated class that tends to keep down the general tone of +society here, by not affording any standard to look up to. It is curious +what a depressing effect is caused in our minds by the equality we see +every where around us; it is very similar to what we lately felt when on +the shores of their vast lakes,—tideless, and therefore lifeless, when +compared to the sea with its ever-varying heights. If I may carry this +idea further, I might say there is another point of resemblance between +the physical and moral features of the country, inasmuch as when the +waters of these lakes of theirs are stirred up and agitated by storms, +they are both more noisy and more dangerous than those of the real +ocean.</p> + +<p>New Haven is considered to be the most beautiful town in America, and it +is marvellously beautiful. The elm is a very fine tree on this +continent. It is of a peculiar kind, rising to a great height<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[Pg 95]</a></span> before +any branches shoot out, thus producing large overhanging branches like a +candelabrum. It is common in all American towns, but this is called by +pre-eminence the City of Elms. There are broad avenues in every +direction, the branches of the trees meeting across and forming shady +walks on the hottest day.</p> + +<p>The shops, relatively to the size of the town, are as good as any we +have seen in the larger cities. Next to the booksellers' shops, or book +stores as they call them, the most striking, if they are not the most +striking of all, are the chemists' shops, which abound here as +elsewhere. They are of enormous size, and are kept in perfect order, +though the marvel is lessened when the variety of their contents is +considered, this being of a very miscellaneous description, chiefly +perfumery, at all events not restricted to drugs. Hat stores and boot +stores are very numerous, and labels of "Misses' Hats" and "Gents' Pants +fixed to patterns," are put up in the windows.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon Professor Silliman took papa a long walk in the +country, and geologised him among basaltic rocks of great beauty; and in +passing through the woods, they made a grand collection of red leaves. I +had, during this walk, been deposited with Mrs. Silliman, and we +remained and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[Pg 96]</a></span> drank tea with them. The professor's father, also +Professor Silliman, a most energetic gentleman, upwards of eighty years +old, came to meet us, as did Professor Dana and one or two others, +including the gentleman who preached to the boys. I cannot get papa to +tell me how he preached, and must draw my own conclusion from his +silence. He will only admit that the pew was very comfortable and the +cushion soft, and as he was kept awake all last night by mosquitoes, the +inference to be drawn is not difficult. I have since been employed in +arranging my leaves in a blotting-book, which I got at Boston for that +purpose, and as it is late must close this for to-night.</p> + +<p><i>New York, October 4th.</i>—We left New Haven this morning and arrived +here this afternoon. The intermediate country along the northern shore +of Long Island Sound is very interesting. We crossed a great many rivers +which in England would be deemed large ones, at the mouths of which were +pretty villages, but we passed so rapidly that we had scarcely time to +do more than catch a glimpse of them. As the mail leaves to-morrow, I +must conclude this.</p> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_4_4" id="Footnote_4_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4_4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> Our driver, some years ago, at Pau.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_5_5" id="Footnote_5_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_5_5"><span class="label">[5]</span></a> We, unfortunately, never had an opportunity of returning to +Cambridge.</p></div> +</div> + +<hr /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[Pg 97]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="LETTER_VI" id="LETTER_VI"></a>LETTER VI.</h2> + +<blockquote><p>DESTRUCTION OF THE CRYSTAL +PALACE.— PHILADELPHIA.— CEMETERY.— GIRARD +COLLEGE.— BALTIMORE.— AMERICAN LITURGY.— RETURN TO +PHILADELPHIA.— PENITENTIARY.— RETURN TO NEW YORK.</p></blockquote> + +<p class='right'>New York, 12th Oct. 1858.</p> + +<p>We have seen comparatively so little since I last wrote to you, that I +have hesitated about sending by this mail any account of our travels; +but I believe, upon the whole, it may be as well to give you an account +of our movements up to this time.</p> + +<p>My last letter would tell you of our arrival at this place. The evening +was so fine, that papa and I were induced to go to the Crystal Palace. +Although very inferior to ours at Sydenham, it was interesting as being +filled with an immense variety of farming implements, which had been +brought together for the great annual agricultural show. There were also +large collections of sewing machines, hydraulic presses, and steam +engines, besides collections of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[Pg 98]</a></span> smaller articles, watches, jewellery, +&c.; and a great many statues, including the original models of +Thorwaldsen's colossal group of our Saviour and the Apostles. The place +was brilliantly lighted up, and the effect was very striking.</p> + +<p>Next day papa was returning home and saw a dense cloud of smoke hanging +over the town; and on approaching the spot, found the poor palace and +all its contents a thing of the past; one minaret only being left of the +building. The whole had been consumed by fire in <i>ten minutes</i>; so rapid +was the progress of the flames from the time of their first bursting +out, that in that short space of time the dome had fallen in; and +wonderful to say, though there were more than 2000 people, chiefly women +and children, in the building when the alarm was given, the whole of +them escaped uninjured.</p> + +<p>We waited on in New York till Friday the 8th, vainly hoping to hear +tidings of William; although by a letter received from him a day or two +before, he said he should probably be at Baltimore on Saturday. With +this uncertainty hanging over his plans, we determined on going there; +and on Friday night got as far as Philadelphia by the Camden and Amboy +Railway, through a country far from pretty, compared with what we have +been accustomed to.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[Pg 99]</a></span></p> + +<p>Philadelphia is situated between the Delaware and the Schuylkill, at +about six miles above the junction of the two rivers. In order to reach +the town we had to cross the Delaware, which we did in a steamer of huge +proportions. It was getting dark when we landed at Philadelphia; and we +were much struck with the large and broad streets and well-lighted +shops. It is said of New York, that the winding lanes and streets in the +old part of the town, originated in the projectors of the city having +decided to build their first houses along paths which had been +established by the cattle when turned into the woods. The projectors of +Philadelphia have certainly avoided this error, if error it was; for +there the streets throughout the city are as regular as the squares of a +chess board, which a map of the city much resembles. The streets extend +from one river to the other.</p> + +<p>We got up next morning betimes; and as it is our intention to see the +town more thoroughly hereafter, we took advantage of a lovely day (but +what day is not here beautiful) to see a cemetery situated upon a bend +of the Schuylkill. It is very extensive; for they have so much elbow +room in this country that they can afford to have things on a large +scale; and everything here partook of this feature. The<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[Pg 100]</a></span> plots of ground +allotted to each family were capacious squares, ornamented with flowers, +surrounded by white marble balustrades, and large enough to contain +separate tombstones, often inside walks, and sometimes even iron +arm-chairs and sofas. The monuments were all of white marble, of which +material there seems here to be a great abundance, and none of them were +offensive in their style, but on the contrary were in general in that +good taste, which the Americans in some way or other, how we cannot make +out, contrive to possess.</p> + +<p>We went afterwards to see the famous Girard College, for the education +of orphan boys. Mr. Girard bequeathed two millions of dollars to found +it, and his executors have built a massive marble palace, quite +unsuited, it struck us, to the purpose for which it was intended; and +the education we are told, is unsuited likewise to the station in life +of the boys who are brought up in it. As in most public institutions for +the purposes of education in this country, no direct religious +instruction is given. This does not seem in general to proceed from any +want of appreciation of its importance, but is owing to the difficulty, +where there is no predominant creed, of giving instruction in any: but +in the case of the Girard institution, even this excuse for the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[Pg 101]</a></span> +omission cannot be made, for a stipulation was imposed by Mr. Girard in +his will, that no minister of any denomination should ever enter its +walls, even as a visitor, though this, we understand is not carried out. +For the first time in America we met here with a most taciturn official, +and could learn much less than we wished of the manner in which the +institution is managed.</p> + +<p>On Saturday the 9th, being the same afternoon, we went on to Baltimore, +and were perplexed at not finding letters from William; but to our great +relief he made his appearance in the evening, much pleased with his +travels.</p> + +<p>The country from Philadelphia to Baltimore, like that which we passed +through on the preceding day, is much less interesting than the country +to the north of New York; but a grand feature of the road we travelled +was the Susquehanna River, which is here very broad, and which we +crossed in a large steamer, leaving the train we were in, and joining +another which was in readiness on the other side. The point at which we +crossed the river, was at the spot where it falls into the Chesapeake. +The shores of this beautiful bay are profusely indented with arms or +estuaries, the heads of which, as well as the mouths of several +tributary rivers, we re<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[Pg 102]</a></span>peatedly crossed on long bridges: this afforded +a great variety in the scenery, and much enlivened the last part of our +journey.</p> + +<p>Next day being Sunday, we heard an admirable sermon from Dr. Cox. The +church in which he preached was a large and handsome one, and the +service was well performed. In describing the service at West Point, I +mentioned that it differed in some respects from our own. We have now +had frequent opportunities of becoming acquainted with the American +liturgy; and, as it will interest some of you at home, I may as well +tell you a little in what those differences consist, with which we were +most forcibly struck.</p> + +<p>Some alterations were of course rendered necessary by the establishment +of a republic, but these seem to have been confined as far as possible +to what the occasion called for. I think, however, in spite of their +republicanism, they might have retained the Scriptural expression, "King +of Kings, and Lord of Lords," instead of changing it to the inflated, +"High and Mighty Ruler of the Universe." This reminded us of the doubt +raised by some, when Queen Victoria came to the throne, if the words +ought not then to have been changed to "King of Queens." It is pleasing, +however, to observe<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[Pg 103]</a></span> how small the variations in general are, if indeed +there be any, which are at variance with either the doctrine or the +discipline of the Church of England.</p> + +<p>We are so much accustomed to the opening sentences of our own Liturgy, +"When the wicked man turneth away from the wickedness that he hath +committed," &c., that their opening words startled us at first; but +their two or three initiatory sentences are well selected to begin the +service; the first being, "The Lord is in his holy temple: let all the +earth keep silence before him."</p> + +<p>Some of the alterations are improvements rather than blemishes, for the +constant repetitions in our service are avoided. The Lord's prayer is +less frequently repeated, and the collect for the day, when it has to be +read in the Communion Service, is omitted where it first occurs with us. +A little more freedom of choice, too, is allowed to the minister in +several parts of the service. For example: the Apostle's Creed or the +Nicene Creed may be substituted for each other, as the latter is not +used in the office for the Communion; and instead of reading the Psalter +as divided into days in the daily service, some very good selections +from the Psalms are made, which may be substituted either on the week +days, or<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[Pg 104]</a></span> on Sundays. The daily Lessons are shortened, and yet all the +portions read by us, out of the Canonical Scriptures, are retained, +which is managed by omitting all the Lessons taken from the Apocrypha.</p> + +<p>The second lessons on Sundays are specially appointed as well as the +first, and not made to depend, as with us, on the day of the month.</p> + +<p>The Commination Service for Ash Wednesday is omitted, only the two +prayers at the end being retained; these are read after the Litany. The +Athanasian Creed is never used.</p> + +<p>Some of the verbal alterations, however, grated harshly on our ears. +They are of course obliged to pray for the President, but instead of the +petition to "grant him in health and wealth long to live," they have +substituted the word "prosperity" for the good old Saxon "wealth," for +fear, apparently, of being misunderstood by it to mean dollars. They +seem too, to have a remarkable aversion to all <i>them thats</i>, always +substituting the words <i>those who</i>. But the peculiarity which pleased us +most in the American service, was that, instead of the few words of +intercession introduced into our Litany, "especially those for whom our +prayers are desired," there are distinct and very beautiful prayers for +the different circumstances under which the prayers of the congre<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[Pg 105]</a></span>gation +may be asked; as for example in sickness, or affliction, or going to +sea, &c. There is, also, a special form of prayer for the visitation of +prisoners, and one of thanksgiving after the harvest, also offices for +the consecration of churches, and for the institution of ministers to +churches; and some excellent forms of prayers authorised by the church +to be used in families. These seem the chief alterations, excepting that +the Communion Service differs very much from ours; the oblation and +invocation, which I believe are used in the Scotch service, being +introduced into theirs. To the whole is added, in their prayer books, a +most excellent selection of psalms and hymns, in which one is glad to +recognise almost all those which we admire most in our own hymn books.</p> + +<p>But, after this long digression, to return to my journal. After the +service, Mr. Morgan, who had accompanied us to Baltimore with his +daughter, introduced us to Dr. Cox, and we were invited by him to return +on Thursday to a great missionary meeting, which is to be held in +Baltimore; but this, I am afraid, we shall hardly accomplish. In going +and returning from church, we saw a good deal of the city. It is built +upon slopes and terraces, which gives it a most picturesque appearance. +It is in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[Pg 106]</a></span>deed generally reputed to be the most beautiful city in the +United States, and from the number of monuments it contains, it has been +called the "Monumental City." The principal structure of this kind is +the Washington monument, situated on a large open area, and upwards of +two hundred feet high. It is entirely constructed of white marble, and +has a colossal statue of Washington on the top. The town is built on the +banks of the Patapsco, about fourteen miles from where its flows into +the Chesapeake. It is navigable here for large ships, and presents one +of those enormous expanses of water, which form a constant subject of +dispute between papa and William, as to whether they are rivers, lakes, +or estuaries. Large as the expanse of water is, the distance from the +sea is at least 200 miles, and the water is quite fresh.</p> + +<p>We returned yesterday with William to Philadelphia, and went to see the +famous water-works, which supply the town with water from the +Schuylkill. The water is thrown up by forcing-pumps to large reservoirs +above; the surrounding grounds are very pretty, and the whole is made +into a fashionable promenade, which commands a fine view of the city. We +afterwards went to the penitentiary, which has a world-wide renown from +its being the model of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[Pg 107]</a></span> many which have been built in England and +elsewhere. The solitary system is maintained, the prisoners never being +allowed to see each other, nor could we see them. One poor man had been +in confinement sixteen years out of twenty, to which he had been +condemned. Any one remembering Dickens's account of this prison, must +shudder at the recollection of it, and it was sad to feel oneself in the +midst of a place of such sorrow. When here a few days ago, we had left +our letters of introduction for Mr. Starr. He called to-day, and gave +Papa some interesting information about the revivals. He takes great +interest in the young <i>gamins</i>, whom I have described as "pedlering" in +the railway cars, selling newspapers and cheap periodicals; they are a +numerous class, and often sharp little fellows. Mr. Starr takes much +pains in trying to improve their moral and religious characters. But I +have no time at present for more. We returned to New York to-day, and +are passing our last evening with William, who is to sail early +to-morrow, and will be the bearer of this letter.</p> + +<hr /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[Pg 108]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="LETTER_VII" id="LETTER_VII"></a>LETTER VII.</h2> + +<blockquote><p>WILLIAM'S DEPARTURE.— GREENWOOD CEMETERY.— JOURNEY TO +WASHINGTON.— ARRANGEMENTS FOR OUR JOURNEY TO THE FAR WEST.— TOPSY.</p></blockquote> + +<p class='right'>Washington, 16th Oct. 1858.</p> + +<p>I closed my last letter to you on the 12th, and gave it to William to +take to you. On the following day we bade him a sorrowful farewell, made +all the more melancholy by the day being very rainy, which prevented our +seeing him on board. We so very rarely see rain, that when it comes it +is most depressing to our spirits, without any additional cause for +lamentation; but it never lasts beyond a day, and is always succeeded by +a renewal of most brilliant weather.</p> + +<p>To console ourselves next day, although papa said it was an odd source +of consolation, we went to see the Greenwood Cemetery, which is one of +the four remaining sights of New York, the fifth, the Crystal Palace, +being, as I wrote to you, burnt down. The<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[Pg 109]</a></span> cemetery, however, proved a +great "<i>sell</i>," as William would have called it; for it is not to be +compared to the one at Philadelphia; and instead of the beautiful white +marble, surrounding each family plot, we found grey stone, or, still +more commonly, a cast iron rail. Moreover, it had to be reached by an +endless series of steamer-ferries and tramways, which, though they did +not consume much money (under 1<i>s.</i> a head), occupied a great deal more +time than the thing was worth. The excursion, however, gave us an +opportunity of seeing the town of Brooklyn, which, though insignificant, +in point of size, as compared with New York, has nearly as many +inhabitants as either Boston or Baltimore, and numbers more than twice +those in the town from which I now write.</p> + +<p>We left New York yesterday, end slept at Philadelphia. When we went +there last week, the first thirty miles of our route was across the Bay +of New York, in a steamer, and, on our return, we came the whole way by +rail; but there is a third line, which we took on this occasion, called +the New Jersey Line, by which we went as far as Burlington by rail, and +thence a distance of nineteen miles in a steamboat down the Delaware. It +was splendid moonlight, and the town of Philadelphia, which stretches +along the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[Pg 110]</a></span> banks of the river for nearly five miles, was well lighted, +and the river being crowded with ships, the whole effect was very +pretty.</p> + +<p>It is marvellous how well they manage these huge steam-boats. They come +noiselessly up to the pier without the least shock in touching it, and +it is almost impossible to know when one has left the boat and reached +<i>terra firma</i>, so close do they bring the vessel up to the wharf. The +whole process is directed by a man at the wheel, and regulated by sound +of bell. There is a perfect absence of all yells, and cries, and strong +expressions, so common in a French steamer, and not unfrequent in an +English one.</p> + +<p>We arrived too late at Philadelphia to be able to do much that evening, +and this morning, we started early for Baltimore, <i>en route</i> for this +place. We had two very pleasant and communicative fellow-travellers, one +a coal merchant, who resides at Wilmington, the capital of Delaware, the +other a Quaker, a retired merchant from Philadelphia, who gave us a good +deal of information about some of the institutions and charities of that +place. He stood up much for the Girard College, and justified the +enormous cost of the building, by saying it was meant as a monument to +the founder. He made a very good defence of the solitary system, which I +mentioned in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[Pg 111]</a></span> my last as existing in the penitentiary, and we were +beginning to think him a very wise "Friend," when he broke out on the +merits of Phonography, which, by his account, seems to have made much +progress in America, and he has asked us to call on Mr. Pitman, their +great authority on that subject, at Cincinnati. The old gentleman's name +was Sharpless, and it deserves to be recorded in this journal, he being +the only American we have heard take anything like a high tone upon the +subject of slavery. He gave us the names of some books upon the subject, +which we, in the innocence of our hearts, have been asking for in +Baltimore and here, forgetting that we are now in those states where it +forms a happy (?) feature in their domestic institutions.</p> + +<p>As we were about to part, the old gentleman addressed us both, and +turning to me, said, "I must tell thee how well it was in thee to come +out to this country with thy husband, and not to let him come alone. A +man should never allow himself to be separated from a good wife, and +thou doest well, both of thee, to keep together." To which complimentary +speech I replied, that I had made it the one stipulation in giving my +consent to papa's crossing the ocean that I should accompany him; and I +confessed that I little thought at the time that I should<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[Pg 112]</a></span> be taken at +my word, or that our berths would be engaged the following day; but +hoped rather, by such stipulation, to prevent his going altogether. I +added that if all went well with our family at home, as I trusted it +would, I had no reason to do otherwise than be very glad I had come. We +arrived here at last. The Americans are very proud of their country. +But, oh! it would do them all good to see this blessed Washington, which +few of them do, except their Senators and Members of Congress, and +others connected with government. Well may Dickens term it "the city of +magnificent intentions." Such ambitious aspirings to make a great city! +Such streets marked out; twice or three times the width of Portland +Place! and scarcely anything completed, with the exception of some +public buildings, which, to do them justice, are not only on a +magnificent scale, but very beautiful. I shall, however, delay my +account of Washington till we have seen more of it, as we stay here till +Monday afternoon, when we return to Baltimore so as to allow us to make +a start for the West on Tuesday.</p> + +<p>We are to travel quite <i>en prince</i>, over the Ohio and Baltimore +railroad, one of the most wonderful of all American railways. At New +York we had introductions given us to request the officials<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[Pg 113]</a></span> of this +line to allow us to travel on the engine, or on the cowcatcher if we +preferred it! either of which would undoubtedly have given us a fair +opportunity of viewing the scenery; but papa saw to-day, at Baltimore, +the managing director, who has arranged for the principal engineer to go +with us, and he is to take us in the director's car, which we are to +have to ourselves, and this gentleman, Mr. Tyson, is to let us stop +whenever we have a fancy to do so. We are to go fast or slow as we may +prefer. We are to start on Tuesday morning, at the tail of the express +train, and we have only to give the signal when our car will be +detached. There are only two or three trains daily for passengers; but +there are goods' and extra trains for various purposes, which are +constantly running at different speeds on the road. It is by reattaching +ourselves to any of these, that we can, when we like, effect all this, +and have an opportunity of seeing, in the most leisurely manner, and +without any detriment to the other passengers, the various parts of the +road that may be worth exploring. The line is very beautiful, and I hope +Mr. Tyson will be prepared for my frequently stopping him when I see +trees, with their splendid red leaves that I may wish particularly to +gather. We are to take<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[Pg 114]</a></span> our food in this carriage, if necessary, and +have beds made up in it, so as to make us quite independent of inns, and +we may pass as many days as we like upon the road. We are to do this +because, though some of the hotels are good, we may not find them at the +exact places where we wish to stop. Papa has no connection with this +road, and it must be American appreciation of his virtues which has led +the officials to deal with us in this luxurious way.</p> + +<p>On Tuesday the 19th inst., therefore, we make our real start for the +West, and shall probably the first night reach Harper's Ferry, a place +which President Jefferson, in his "Notes on Virginia," which you will +find in papa's library, said, was "one of the most stupendous scenes in +nature, and well worth a voyage across the Atlantic to witness;" and +this was written when these voyages were not so easily accomplished as +they are now. But this railway has opened up scenery which was not known +to Jefferson, and is said far to surpass, in beauty, even this +celebrated Harper's Ferry; but of this we shall soon be able to judge +for ourselves.</p> + +<p><i>October 18th.</i>—This must be posted to-day before we lionise this +place, so I shall reserve all I have to say about Washington till my +next, and shall fill up this page with a description of a real live +"Topsy"<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[Pg 115]</a></span> slave, with whom we have made acquaintance here. She is +fourteen, the property of an old Miss D. We noticed her yesterday +standing about in the passage, and asked her if she belonged to the +hotel, and she said no, that she belonged to Miss D. We said, quite +seriously, as we now always do to blacks and whites of the lower orders, +"Where were you raised?" The creature answered us quietly, "In +Virginny." She is a full, well grown girl, with a large bushy crop of +wool on her head; a pleasant, large, round intelligent face, that is +almost pretty. The young niggers have very little of the real negro cast +of countenance, and the little boys and girls about the streets are +really pretty, and almost loveable looking; while the elders, especially +the females, are hideous to behold, and are only to be tolerated, in +point of looks, when they wear coloured turbans. When I see one adorned +in a bonnet at the back of her head, with a profusion, inside, of the +brightest artificial flowers, a bright vulgar shawl and dress, and an +enormous hoop, with very narrow petticoats, I always wish to rush home, +light a large bonfire, and throw into the flames every article of +ornamental dress that I possess.</p> + +<p>But to return to dear Topsy. We asked her if she were a slave, feeling +very backward to put so<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[Pg 116]</a></span> trying a question to her; but she answered with +the utmost simplicity, that she was, just as if we had asked her if she +were from France or Germany. In reply to our questions, she said that +her father and mother were slaves; that she has several younger brothers +and sisters; that Miss D. is very rich. "'Spect she has above a hundred +slaves;" and that she is very kind to them all. "Can you read?" "No; +Miss D. has often tried to teach me, but I never could learn. 'Spect I +am too large to learn now." We lectured her about this, and gave her Sir +Edward Parry's favourite advice, to "try again." I then asked her if she +went to church. "No, never." "Does Miss D.?" "Mighty seldom." "Do you +know who made you?" "Yes, God." "Do you ever pray?" "No, never; used to, +long ago; but," with a most sanctimonious drawl, "feel such a burden +like, when I try to kneel down, that I can't." This was such a +gratuitous imitation of what she must have heard the <i>goody</i><a name="FNanchor_6_6" id="FNanchor_6_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a> niggers +say, that I felt sorely disposed to give her<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[Pg 117]</a></span> young black ears a sound +boxing, for supposing such a piece of acting could impose upon us. +However, leaving the dark ears alone, I urged the duty of prayer upon +her, as strongly and simply as I could, and made her promise to kneel +down every night and morning and pray. She had heard of Christ, and +repeated some text (again a quotation, no doubt, from the <i>goody</i> +niggers) about his death; but she did not know, on further examination, +who He is, nor what death He died. She said Miss D. read to them all, +every Sunday; but probably not in a very instructive manner. She said +her name was Almira. I gave her Miss Marsh's "Light for the Line," which +happened to be the only book I had by me which was at all suitable, and +told her to get it read to her, and that I was sorry I had nothing else +to give her; but I shall try this morning to get her an alphabet, in +order to encourage her to make another attempt to learn to read. At +parting last night, I spoke as solemnly as I could to her, and told her +we should probably never meet again in this world, but that we should be +sure to meet hereafter, at the judgment seat of God, and I entreated her +to remember the advice I had given her.</p> + +<p>As we do not know Miss D., who is a very deaf old lady, staying here, +like ourselves, for a day or two,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[Pg 118]</a></span> our conferences with young Topsy have +been necessarily very short, and constantly interrupted by Miss D.'s +coming past us, and wanting her; but we should like very much to buy +Almira, and bring her home to make a nursery maid of her, and teach her +all she ought to know, and "'spect" after all she is not "too large" to +learn, poor young slave! It was pleasant, in our first colloquy of the +kind, to talk to such an innocent specimen of a slave. I mean innocent, +as respects her ignorance of the horrors of slavery, of which she +evidently had not even the faintest idea. I asked her what she did for +Miss D.? "Dresses her, does her room, and <i>fixes her up</i> altogether." +The real, original Topsy is no doubt a most correctly drawn character, +judging by this specimen. And now adieu; you shall have a further +chapter on Washington next time.</p> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTE:</h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_6_6" id="Footnote_6_6"></a><a href="#FNanchor_6_6"><span class="label">[6]</span></a> I have tried, in vain, to alter this word, which is one +coined at home, and used by the family, but cannot find a substitute for +it. Lest, however, it be misunderstood, I must explain that it is +applied in reference to the truly good and pious among our friends; as +the word "saints," ought to be, had not that term been unhappily +associated with the ridiculous, and a false pretension to religion.</p></div> +</div> + +<hr /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[Pg 119]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="LETTER_VIII" id="LETTER_VIII"></a>LETTER VIII.</h2> + +<blockquote><p>WASHINGTON.— BAPTIST CLASS-MEETING.— PUBLIC BUILDINGS.— VENUS BY +DAYLIGHT.— BALTIMORE AND OHIO RAILWAY.— WHEELING.— ARRIVAL AT COLUMBUS.</p></blockquote> + +<p class='right'>Washington, 18th Oct. 1808.</p> + +<p>I despatched my last to you the day before yesterday, and now must give +you an account of our employments yesterday (Sunday, 17th instant). The +morning was very hot, and very lovely, with a clear blue sky, and I +wished that impertinent young lady, Emily, could see what sort of +weather we have here, and how her good wishes for us are accomplished, +beyond anything she can suppose; for we can barely support the heat in +the middle of the day.</p> + +<p>The weather being so lovely, we set off to a church in Georgetown, a +suburb of Washington, where many of the foreign ministers live, and a +very pretty suburb it is; but when we got there, papa's head began to +ache so much, that we thought it best to return to a church nearer the +hotel, so that if he<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[Pg 120]</a></span> became worse, he might leave the church, and walk +home. We were able, however, to sit out the service, and heard a very +dull sermon from a young missionary, who was to sail, two days +afterwards, with his wife, from Baltimore, for Africa; his sermon was +greatly taken from Livingstone's book, and he spoke more strongly +against slavery than we should have looked for in a slave state. After +the sermon, papa and I went to him, and we asked him a little about +where he was going, &c. &c. He scarcely seemed to know, acknowledged he +was but little acquainted with the work he had before him, and, finally, +when papa put a piece of gold into his hand, he looked at it, and asked +whether it was for himself or the Mission. We answered with some degree +of inward surprise, that it was for any useful object connected with it, +and we took leave of him, wishing him God-speed, but lamenting that a +more efficient man was not going out.</p> + +<p>Papa became much more head-achy during the day. Mr. Erskine called to +see if we wanted anything, and strongly advised my going to a negro +chapel in the evening, and hearing one of the blacks preach. They are +mostly Methodists, that is Wesleyans, or Baptists. He said I should hear +them singing as I passed the doors, and could go in.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[Pg 121]</a></span> Poor papa, by this +time, was fit for nothing except to remain quiet, so Thrower and I set +out in the evening, and found, not without some difficulty, an upper +room, brilliantly lighted, over a grocer's warehouse. We went up two +pairs of stairs, and I did so in fear and trembling, remembering what +the odour is when a large dining-room is filled with black waiters: a +sort of sickly, sour smell pervades the room, that makes one hate the +thought, either of dinner, or of the poor niggers themselves. It seems +it is inherent in their skin; to my surprise and satisfaction, however, +we found nothing of the kind in this room, the windows of which had been +well opened beforehand. It was a large, whitewashed apartment, half +filled with blacks.</p> + +<p>We were the only whites present; there were benches across the room, +leaving a passage up the middle, the men and women occupying different +sides. A pulpit was at the further end of the room, and in front of it +stood a black preaching. He was in the middle of his sermon when we came +in, so we did not hear the text, and sat down quietly at some distance +from him, so as to be able to get out and go home to poor papa whenever +we wished; a nigger came forward, and invited us to go further up the +room, which we declined. The sermon went on for some<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[Pg 122]</a></span> time; it described +the happiness felt by God's true children: and how they would cling to +each other in persecution. The preacher encouraged them all in the path +of holiness, and explained the Gospel means of salvation with great +clearness, and really with admirably chosen words; there was a little +action but not too much; and there were no vulgarities. The discourse +was at least equal to the sermons of many of our dissenting ministers, +and appeared to come from the lips of an educated gentleman, although +with a black skin. He finished, and an old negro rose, and gave out the +text:—"And seeing the multitudes, He went up into a mountain," &c. His +voice at first was faint, and I could not hear what were the various +jokes he cut which produced loud laughter, so we advanced a little. He +afterwards became more serious. His address was quite distinct from his +text, being an earnest and very well delivered exhortation to the +converted to grow in grace; at the end of every period he repeated his +text as a <i>refrain</i>.</p> + +<p>At first, I observed among the dark ladies a few suppressed murmurs of +approbation, but as his discourse proceeded, these were turned into +groans; and when he quoted a text, or said anything more than usually +impressive, there was a regular rocking<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[Pg 123]</a></span> and swaying of the figure among +them, while one or two repeated aloud the last words of his text. While +he was preaching, a tall thin young woman, in deep mourning, came in, +and room was made for her to sit down next to a very fat negress, whom I +had observed at our own church in the morning. The latter passed her arm +round the shoulder of this young woman, as they sat together, and I +observed that at various solemn passages of the old man's address, they +began to rock their bodies, gently at first, but afterwards more and +more violently, till at last they got into a way of rocking themselves +quite forward off their seat, and then on it again, the fat woman +cuddling up the thin one more and more closely to her. There seemed a +sort of mesmeric influence between the two, occasioning in both similar +twistings and contortions of the body, shakings of the head, lookings +upward, lookings downward, and louder words of exclamation and +approbation. This was not continuous in its violence, though there was +generally <i>some</i> movement between them; but the violence of it came on +in fits, and was the effect of the old man's words. It was very curious +that whenever he repeated the text (a far from exciting one, I thought), +the agitation became most violent. The other women continued to murmur +applause,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[Pg 124]</a></span> and one woman in advance of the others (a very frightful one) +looked upwards, and frequently smiled a heavenly (?) smile. I sat rather +behind most of them, and on the side where the men were, so that unless +when the women turned round, I could scarcely see their faces. After a +time the old man commented upon the succeeding verses of the Chapter as +far as the words, "Blessed are the poor in spirit," &c., and here he +ceased, almost abruptly; a hymn was immediately given out by the first +preacher, and was sung most loudly and vigorously by most of the +congregation. The men's voices were very loud, but they all sang true, +and with great spirit and energy. There were no musical instruments, and +they sat while singing. The hymns seemed very stirring, but I am sorry I +cannot give you the words of any of them, as there were no books, and +they sung at first from memory, though in some of the after hymns the +preacher gave them out by two lines at a time.</p> + +<p>This being, as I was afterwards told, a Baptist class-meeting, the first +man invited any brother or sister to tell the others "how the Lord had +dealt with him," or "what He had done for his soul." (I quote his +words.) Whereupon a tall well-dressed young negro rose from his seat, +and standing up,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[Pg 125]</a></span> told us that he had been a great sinner, and that he +had, through many difficulties, learnt to serve God. He spoke of +persecutions from within in the struggles of a sinful nature and of +great and bitter ones from without. He did not describe what these had +been: but told us that the victory had been his. His language, and +choice of expressions, were always good, though at times there was a +little of the peculiar negro pronunciation. At all descriptions of the +contest having been in his favour, the women swayed their bodies; and +when he, and others after him, asserted to those around that what he had +felt could not have been from Satan, and therefore must have been from +God, there was great agitation, especially in my two friends, and grins +and murmurs from the others. The men listened quietly, sometimes +grinning with delight, and sometimes leaning their heads forward on +their hands, as if meditating. A few of the men who sat at the upper end +of the room leant their heads against the wall, and <i>might</i> have been +asleep.</p> + +<p>After this young man's "experience" was ended, came another singing of +hymns, and then another invitation for more "experiences;" when a tall, +fat, important-looking man rose: his figure reminded one of a fat, burly +London butler; and his account<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[Pg 126]</a></span> of himself was somewhat extravagant. +"Heart was hard as stone; a great sinner; was standing in an orchard; +couldn't love God or pray; seemed as if a great light came from the sky; +got behind a tree; the light came nearer; seemed as if drawing me," &c. +&c.; ending in the happy circumstance of <i>his</i> complete conversion; and +he sat down, his discourse producing the same agitating effects, and of +an increasing kind on all the women, specially on my fat and thin +friends. Then came another hymn, and another invitation; which was +followed by the preacher's going up to a young negress and speaking a +few words to her in a whisper; whereupon he told us, that a young +person, who had been wonderfully "dealt with by the Lord," was about to +give an account of herself. The young girl, of about twenty, black, but +pleasing-looking, advanced, and standing straight up before the +preacher, repeated to him her experience almost as if it were a lesson +she had learnt by heart. There was a cadence, or sort of chant, in her +delivery; but with the most perfect quietness of manner. She had been, +she said, a great sinner; and she then gave an account of herself at +much greater length than the others. In speaking of the difficulties +that had met her in her spiritual path, there was a very musical and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[Pg 127]</a></span> +touching mournfulness in her voice that made her an object of great +interest. The men, at least, seemed to think so; for they all became +most lively, grinned gloriously, their splendid white teeth contrasting +with their dark skins; my two friends became nearly frantic, the one in +mourning especially, when shaken by the agitation of her fat friend, +writhed her body in all directions. They both began shouting, "Glory! +Glory!" with a loud voice; and finally the younger one fell forward on +her face, in a sort of trance. After a time she got back upon her seat; +but I never witnessed such a state of excitement, except once, years +ago, when I saw a young woman in an epileptic fit. All this was +evidently in a sort of small camp-meeting style. August is the month for +these meetings when out of doors; but this was a minor one. The woman in +front grinned, and even laughed outright, having great hollows or +dimples in her cheeks. The young girl was really interesting, so +perfectly calm and so modest; never looking to the right or left. She +said she felt ashamed to appear before them all, but that she should not +be ashamed to appear before God: and whenever interrupted, she resumed +the thread of her narrative with the utmost composure. She ended after a +time, but<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[Pg 128]</a></span> remained standing before the preacher, who was seated, and +who proceeded to examine her as to whether she thought she was <i>really</i> +converted to God. Her answers were faint, as if from fatigue and +exhaustion, her narrative having been a very long one; but still there +was a quiet, unfaltering decision in her replies, which were given with +much humility of manner. I could not help sometimes doubting whether the +whole thing was really unprepared and extemporaneous, or whether she +might not have learnt her lesson and repeated it by rote, or whether, in +short, it might not have been a piece of acting. This impression lasted +only for a moment, for there was such an artless and modest manner in +the young girl, that I could not fail on the whole to give her the +fullest credit for sincerity, and was angry only with her black male +friends for requiring from her such a display of herself and her +feelings in a public congregation; which made me feel much for the young +girl throughout. After various warnings that she would meet with +difficulties, that she was joining a "plain set of old Baptist saints," +&c., she said she wished and desired to do so. The preacher then asked, +almost in the words of the Liturgy, "Wilt thou be baptized?" and she<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[Pg 129]</a></span> +answered, "I will." Whereupon he asked the congregation to show by their +hands if they approved of her being baptized; and there being a +sufficient show of hands, she was told she was duly elected as a +candidate for baptism; when another hymn being struck up in the same +vociferous style as before, we rose and left the assembly, not liking to +be longer absent from papa. We came out upon the lovely, calm, moonlight +night, so sweet, so exquisitely heavenly; and I felt how differently +nature looked without, to those distressing sights of bodily agitation +and contortion we had witnessed within. I thought of the poor young +negro girl's quiet testimony, and gentle voice and manner, and wondered +if <i>she</i>, too, would learn in time to become uproarious, and shout, +"Glory! Glory!" The probability is, that she will become like her +neighbours; for I can tell you later other stories about the necessity +these poor nigger women seem to be under to shout "Glory!" I was glad to +have seen this specimen of the camp-meeting style.</p> + +<p>Although I have felt it scarcely possible to describe the scene without +a certain mixture of the ludicrous, no feeling of irreverence crossed my +mind at the time. On the contrary, my sympathies were greatly drawn out +towards these our poor<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[Pg 130]</a></span> fellow-creatures; and there was something most +instructive in the sight of them there assembled to enjoy those highest +blessings—blessings of which no man could rob them. Religion seemed to +be to them not a mere sentiment or feeling, but a real tangible +possession; and one could read, in their appreciation of it, a lesson to +one's own heart of its power to lift man above all earthly sorrow, +privation, and degradation into an upper world, as it were, even here +below, of "joy and peace in believing."</p> + +<p>To-day, after posting our letters for England, papa went to General +Cass, Secretary of State for the United States, and delivered his letter +of introduction from Mr. Dallas, the American Minister in London. He had +a long and interesting interview with him.</p> + +<p>We went afterwards to the Capitol, and all over it, under the guidance +of our coachman, a very intelligent and civil Irishman. We were quite +taken by surprise at what we saw; for not only is the building itself, +which is of white marble, a very fine one, but the internal fittings, or +"fixings," as they perpetually call them here, show a degree of taste +for which before leaving England we had not given the Americans credit. +Two wings are now being added<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[Pg 131]</a></span> to the original building, and are nearly +completed; and a new and higher dome than the original one is being +built over the centre. The wings are destined to be occupied, one by the +Senate, and the other by the House of Representatives: in fact, the +House of Representatives already make use of their wing; but the Senate +will still hold another session in the old Senate House, as the Senators +have not yet quite decided upon their "fixings." The new chamber is, +however, sufficiently advanced to enable us to form a judgment of what +it will be; and although, perhaps, inferior in beauty to that of the +House of Representatives, it is in very good taste: but the room where +the Representatives meet is really most beautiful. The seats are ranged +in semi-circles, with desks before each, in much the same manner as in +Paris; which gives a more dignified appearance than the arrangement of +the seats in our House of Commons. The floors throughout a great part of +the building are in very good tesselated work, made by Minton, in +England; as the tiles made in this country do not preserve their colour +like the English ones. The ceilings of some of the passages are +beautifully decorated; and one of the committee rooms, appropriated to +agricultural matters, is remarkably well painted in fresco; all the +subjects<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[Pg 132]</a></span> have allusion to agricultural pursuits. In the centre of the +building, round the circular part, under the dome, are some very +indifferent pictures, representing subjects connected with the history +of America, beginning with the landing of Columbus. Two out of the eight +represented incidents in the war of independence; one being the +surrender of Lord Cornwallis, who seemed very sorry for himself. The +view from the Capitol is fine; the gardens round it are kept in good +order, and there being a great deal of maple in the woods, the redness +of the leaf gave a brilliant effect to the scene.</p> + +<p>From the Capitol we went to the Patent Office, in which are contained an +endless variety of models. It is immediately opposite the Post Office, +and both are splendid buildings of white marble. The Post Office is +still unfinished, but it will be of great size. The Patent-Office is an +enormous square building. The four sides, which are uniform, have large +flights of stairs on the outside, leading to porticos of Corinthian +pillars. We entered the building, and went into a large apartment, where +we were lost in contemplation of the numerous models, which we admired +exceedingly, though the shortness of the time we had to devote to them +prevented our examining<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">[Pg 133]</a></span> them as minutely as they seemed to deserve. +Papa, indeed, was disposed to be off when we had gone through this room, +as we had still much to do, and he professed his belief that we must +have seen the whole. I, having my wits more about me, could not conceive +how this could well be the case, seeing we had only looked at one out of +four sides. There is no one in these places to show them to strangers, +so we asked a respectable-looking person if there were any more rooms, +when he replied, "Oh, yes! you have only been looking at the <i>rejected</i> +models." Whereupon we entered on the second side of the square; but, to +confess the truth, the rejected and accepted ones seemed to us much of a +piece, and we were not sorry, on arriving at the third side, to find it +shut up and apparently empty, so we beat a retreat. We were told at +Baltimore that the collection was a very fine one, and doubtless it may +be very interesting to a person competent to judge of the details; but +the models, besides being shut up in glass-cases, and consequently very +inaccessible, were generally on too small a scale to be comprehended by +ordinary observers, and in this respect, the collection was of much less +interest to us than the exhibition we had lately seen in the unfortunate +Crystal Palace at<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">[Pg 134]</a></span> New York, where the models exhibited were of the full +size of the machines meant to be used, and consequently almost +intelligible to an unprofessional person. Besides what may be strictly +considered models, there were in the rooms some objects more suited to +an ordinary museum. Such were various autographs, and many relics of +Washington; and a case containing locks of the hair of all the +presidents, from the time of Washington downwards.</p> + +<p>When mentioning our visit to General Cass, I omitted to state the +magnificence of the Treasury, which adjoins his official residence; an +enormous structure, also of white marble. We counted thirty pillars in +front, of the Ionic order, besides three more recently added on a wing, +these three pillars of great height being cut out of single blocks of +marble. We passed this building again in going from the Patent-Office to +Lord Napier's, where we had an appointment with Mr. Erskine.</p> + +<p>The noble mansion of England's representative is a cube of brick-work +painted dark-brown, equal in size, and very much resembling in +appearance, our own D. P. H.; but standing in a melancholy street, +without the appendages of green-house, conservatory, and gate, as in +that choice London man<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[Pg 135]</a></span>sion. The Honourable Secretary's apartment was +downstairs in the area, and the convenience of its proximity to the +kitchen, with the thermometer at 85° in the shade, as it was to-day, was +doubtless duly appreciated by him, he having just arrived from Turin. We +found him waiting for us, and he accompanied us to the President's +residence, called the White House. It is a handsome but unpretending +building, not like its neighbours, of marble, but painted to look like +stone; the public reception-rooms are alone shown, but a good-natured +servant let us see the private rooms, and took us out on a sort of +terrace behind, where we had a lovely view of the Potomac. The house is +situated in a large garden, opposite to which, on the other side of the +road, is a handsome, and well-kept square. The house has no pretensions +about it, but would be considered a handsome country house in England; +and the inside is quite in keeping, and well furnished. The furniture is +always renewed when a new President takes possession; and as this is the +case every four years, it cannot well become shabby.</p> + +<p>In a line directly opposite the back of the house, and closing up the +view at the end of the gardens, stands the monument which is being +erected to Washington. This, when finished, is to be a cir<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">[Pg 136]</a></span>cular +colonnaded building, 250 feet in diameter, and 100 feet high, from which +is to spring an obelisk 70 feet wide at the base, and 500 feet high, so +that, when completed, the whole will be as high as if our monument in +London were placed on the top of St. Paul's. At present nothing but its +ugly shaft is built, which has anything but a picturesque appearance, +and it is apparently likely to remain in this condition, as it is not +allowed to be touched by any but native republican hands, here a rather +scarce commodity. It is being built of white stone, one of the many +kinds found in this country. By the by, we omitted to state, in +describing the Capitol, that the balustrades of the staircases, and a +good deal of ornamental work about the building, are of marble, from a +quarry lately discovered in Tennessee, of a beautiful darkish lilac +ground, richly grained with a shade of its own colour; it is very +valuable, costing seven dollars per cubic foot.</p> + +<p>From the President's house we went to the Observatory, which, though +unpretending in its external appearance, is said to be the finest in the +world next to the one at St. Petersburgh; so at least says the +Washington Guide Book, for I like to give our authority for what we +ourselves should not have supposed to be the case. Mr. Erskine +intro<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[Pg 137]</a></span>duced himself, and then us, to Lieutenant Maury, who is at the +head of it, and is well known as a writer on meteorological subjects. He +is a most agreeable man, and we talked much about the comet, meteoric +stones, &c.; we asked him what he thought of Professor Silliman's notion +about the comet's tail being an electric phenomenon, but he seemed to +think little was known on the subject. He said this comet had never been +seen before, and might never return again, as its path seemed parabolic, +and not elliptical; but he said that what was peculiarly remarkable +about it was the extreme agitation observed in the tail, and even in the +nucleus, the motion appearing to be vibratory. With regard to meteoric +stones, he said the one we saw at New Haven, though of such a prodigious +size, being 200 lbs. heavier than the one in the British Museum, was a +fragment only of a larger stone. We asked permission to go to the top of +the observatory, and at a hint from papa, I expressed the great desire I +had to see Venus by daylight, through the great telescope; whereupon, he +sent for Professor B——, and asked him to take us up to the +observatory, and to direct the great telescope to Venus. We mounted +accordingly, and I was some<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">[Pg 138]</a></span>what alarmed when the whole room in which we +were placed, began to revolve upon its axis.</p> + +<p>Setting the telescope takes some minutes, and the Professor ejected us +from the room at the top of the building on to a balcony, from which we +had a most lovely view of the neighbouring country. By means of a very +good small telescope placed on a swivel, we could see most distinctly +the Military Retreat (the Chelsea of America), beautifully situated upon +a high hill about three miles off. We saw also through this telescope +the Smithsonian Institute, which we were glad to be able to study in +this way in detail, as we found we should not have time to go to it. It +is a very large building of the architecture of the twelfth century, and +the only attempt at Mediæval architecture which we have seen in the +United States.</p> + + +<p>The view of the Potomac and of the hill and buildings of George Town was +very extensive and remarkable; but before we had feasted our eyes +sufficiently on it, we were summoned to see one of the most lovely +sights I ever witnessed. Though it was mid-day, and the sun was shining +most brilliantly, we saw the exquisitely sharp crescent of Venus in the +pale sky, and about half the apparent size of the moon. The object-glass +of the instrument was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[Pg 139]</a></span> divided into squares, and she passed rapidly +across the field of the telescope, sailing, as it were, in ether; by the +slightest motion of a tangent-screw of great length, we were able to +bring her back as often as we liked, to the centre of the field. This +mechanical process might, however, have been rendered unnecessary, had +the machinery attached to the instrument been wound up; for when this is +the case, if the telescope is directed to any star or point in the +heavens, it continues to point to it for the whole twenty-four hours in +succession, the machine revolving round in the plane to which it is set. +The instrument is a very powerful one, and, like the smaller one we +looked through before, was made by Fraunhofer, a famous optician at +Munich. There are some other very wonderful instruments which we had not +time to see, as we had to make desperate haste to get some dinner, and +be off by the late train to Baltimore. But before I take leave of this +subject, I must return for a minute or two to that most perfectly lovely +creature Venus. She was a true crescent; we could imagine we saw the +jagged edge of the inner side of the crescent, but the transition from +the planet to the delicate sky was so gradual, that as far as this inner +edge was concerned, this was probably only imagination. Her<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[Pg 140]</a></span> colouring +on this jagged side was of the most transparent silvery hue. The outer +edge was very sharply defined against the sky, and her colour shaded off +on this side to a pale golden yellow with a red or pink tint in it; this +being the side she was presenting to the sun. No words can express her +beauty. She is the planet that I told you lately looked so very large.</p> + +<p>On our way to the station, and in our drives about the town, we had an +opportunity of seeing the City of Washington. The town was originally +laid out by Washington himself, and divided off into streets, or rather +wide avenues, which are crossed by other streets of great breadth; but +though the streets are named, in many of them no houses are yet built, +and those that are have a mean appearance, owing to their being unsuited +in height to the great width of the streets, which are in many cases, I +should think, three times the width of Portland Place, and long in +proportion. Notwithstanding, therefore, the beauty of the public +buildings, the town greatly disappointed us.</p> + +<p>On our arrival at Baltimore this evening, Mr. Garrett, the principal +director of the Baltimore and Ohio Railway, called upon us and brought +with him Mr. Henry Tyson, the chief engineer, or as he is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[Pg 141]</a></span> called, the +master of machinery of the road, whom he was kind enough to appoint to +go with us as far as Wheeling, the western terminus of the line.</p> + +<p>This is the most remarkable railway in America for the greatness of the +undertaking and the difficulties encountered in passing the Alleghanies, +which the projectors of the road could only do by crossing the range at +a height of 2700 feet, a project that most people looked upon as +visionary. We are to start to-morrow morning at eight o'clock.</p> + +<p><i>Wheeling, Oct. 21st.</i>—We have accomplished the great feat of passing +the Alleghanies, and Mr. Tyson has proved a Cicerone of unequalled +excellence, from his great attention to us, added to his knowledge of +the country, and his talents, which are of no ordinary kind. He is the +engineer who has invented, or at least constructed on a new plan, the +locomotives which are used upon this road: but besides being a very +clever engineer, he is remarkably well read in general literature, and +has a wonderful memory for poetry and a great knowledge of botany.</p> + +<p class="center"><a name="illo_142.png" id="illo_142.png"></a><img src="images/illo_142.png" width='700' height='158' alt="Diagram of car" /></p> + +<p>Though Mr. Garrett talked of the directors' car, we presumed it was only +a common carriage such as we had been accustomed to, but appropriated to +their use; instead of this we found a beautiful car, forty feet long by +eight wide, of which the accom<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">[Pg 142]</a></span>panying diagram shows a plan drawn to +scale. Outside: painted maroon, highly varnished with Canada balsam: the +panels picked out with dark blue. Inside: painted pure white, also +varnished. Ceiling the same, divided into small narrow panels, with +excellent ventilators at each end. Round the car there were twenty-two +windows, not shown in the plan, and three brilliant lamps in the +sitting-room and hall, and one in the bed-room; these were lighted when +passing through the tunnels. There were three hooks in the wall serving +for hat pegs, and at the same time to support two flags for signals. A +large map of the mountain pass from Cumberland to Wheeling hung over the +sofa opposite the table. The table was covered with green baize +stretched tightly over it. On the table were<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[Pg 143]</a></span> placed a large +blotting-book, ink, and pens, three or four daily newspapers which were +changed each day, the yearly report of the railway, a peculiar +time-table book, containing rules for the guidance of the station men, +times of freight and passenger trains meeting and passing each other, +&c. Papa has these. The sofas are covered with a pretty green Brussels +carpet (small pattern) quilted like a mattress with green buttons, +chairs covered with corded wollen stuff, not a speck or spot of ink or +smut on anything. A neat carpet, not a speck or spot on it, a sheet of +tin under and all round the stove. Pantry cupboard containing knives and +forks, spoons, and mugs. Bed-room berths much higher and wider than in a +ship. Red coloured cotton quilts, with a shawl pattern, two pillows to +each bed, pillowcases of brilliant whiteness, sofa bed larger and longer +than a German bed. White Venetian blinds occupied the places usually +filled by the door panels and window shutters. Green Brussels carpet +like the cover of the sofa; three chairs to match. The windows in the +sitting-room had grey holland curtains running on wires with very neat +little narrow strips of leather, and a black button to fasten them, and +a button and well made button-hole below to keep them from blowing about +when the window is open. Looking-glass in neat gilt frame, hung over<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">[Pg 144]</a></span> a +semicircular console in the bed-room, another near the washhandstand, +where a towel also hangs. Two drawers for clothes, &c. under berths. +Table-cloth for meals, light drab varnished cloth, imitating leather, +very clean and pretty, china plates, and two metal plates in case of +breakages. Luncheon consisted of excellent cold corned beef, tongue, +bread and butter, Bass's ale, beer, whiskey, champagne, all Mr. Tyson's. +We supplied cold fowls, bread, and claret. The door at the end opens on +a sort of platform or balcony, surrounded by a strong high iron railing, +with the rails wide enough apart to admit a man to climb up between them +into the car, which the workmen always do to speak to Mr. Tyson. Usual +step entrance at the other end. The platform can hold three arm chairs +easily, and we three sat there yesterday evening, talking and admiring +the view. The door was always open and we were in and out constantly. +Thrower and Gaspar, a capital German man-servant, sat in the hall. +Carpet swept by Gaspar after dinner to remove crumbs. I wear neither +bonnet nor shawl, but sit at the table and work, make mems., dry red +leaves, and learn their names from Mr. Tyson. Papa is always moving +about, and calling me out constantly to admire the view from the +balcony. Yesterday on the lower<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">[Pg 145]</a></span> ground it was much too hot in the +middle of the day to be there, and we were glad to be within the car, +and to shade the glare of the sun by means of our pretty grey curtains, +though it was cooler on the mountain.</p> + +<p>But I must begin to describe our road more methodically. As we wished to +get over the early part of it as expeditiously as possible, we started +by the mail train at 8.30. It will be impossible to describe at length +all the pretty places we passed, respecting each of which Mr. Tyson had +always something to say. Soon after leaving the Washington junction, we +came to a sweet spot called Ellicott's Mills, where he had spent his +boyhood, and where every rock was familiar to him. The family of +Ellicotts, who had resided there from the settlement of the country, +were his mother's relations, and by his father's side he was descended +from Lord Brooke, who was likewise one of the original settlers, the +Warwick branch of the family having remained in England.</p> + +<p>We first came in sight of the Blue Ridge at about forty miles from +Baltimore. During the greater part of this distance we had been +following up the Patapaco river; but soon after this, at the Point of +Rocks, we came upon the Potomac. Here the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">[Pg 146]</a></span> Baltimore and Ohio canal, a +work of prodigious magnitude, and the railway run side by side between +the river and very high cliffs, though the space apparently could afford +room only for one of them. We reached Harper's Ferry a little after +twelve, and the view is certainly splendid. Mr. Tyson had made +arrangements to give the passengers a little extra time for dinner, that +he might take us to see the view from the heights above without +materially detaining the train; but the sun was so powerful that we were +glad to limit our walk in order to see a little in detail the bridge +over which we had just passed in the railway cars. It is a very +wonderful work, but not so remarkable for its length as for its peculiar +structure, the two ends of it being curved in opposite directions, +assuming the form of the letter S. It passes not only over the river but +over the canal, and before it reaches the western bank of the river it +makes a fork, one road going straight on, and the other, which we went +upon, forming the second bend of the S.</p> + +<p>The curves in the railway are very sharp, and a speed of thirty-five +miles an hour is kept up in going round those which have a radius of 600 +feet. This, and repeatedly recurring ascents of a very steep grade, +require engines which unite great<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">[Pg 147]</a></span> power with precision in the +movements, and these are admirably combined in Mr. Tyson's engines; +which, moreover, have the advantage of entirely consuming their own +smoke, and we had neither sparks nor cinders to contend with. The common +rate of travelling, where the road is level, is forty miles an hour, and +at this rate each engine will take eighteen cars with 2600 passengers.</p> + +<p>The difficulties they have to contend with on this road are greatly +increased by the snow drifts in winter. Mr. Tyson told us that on one +occasion the snow had accumulated in one night, by drifts, to fourteen +feet in the cuts, and it required ten freight engines of 200-horse power +each, or 2000-horse power altogether, to clear it away. Three hundred +men were employed, and the wind being bitterly cold, hardly any escaped +being frost-bitten. One of the tenders was completely crushed up by the +force applied; and in the middle of the night, with the snow still +driving, and in a piercing wind, they had to clear away the wreck: +nineteen engines, called snow ploughs, are kept solely to clear away the +snow.</p> + +<p>At five o'clock we reached Cumberland, where we slept. After dinner we +walked out in the most<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">[Pg 148]</a></span> lovely night possible to see the town, and the +moon being nearly full, we saw the valley as distinctly almost as by +daylight. There is a great gap here in the mountain, which forms a +prominent feature in the landscape, and a church on the summit of a high +hill rendered the picture almost perfect. We here saw the comet for the +last time.</p> + +<p>Next morning, the 20th October, we started early, in order to be able to +take the mountain pass more leisurely, attached ourselves at 6.15 to the +express train, and reached Piedmont at 7.30. During this part of our +journey we continued to follow up the Potomac, but here we left it to +follow up the Savage river, and for seventeen miles continued to ascend +to Altamont, where we attained the summit level of 2700 feet above the +sea. We cast ourselves off from the express at Piedmont, and afterwards +tacked ourselves on to a train which left Piedmont at eight o'clock, and +got to Altamont at 9.45; these seventeen miles occupied an hour and +three quarters, the grade for eleven miles out of the seventeen being +116 feet per mile.</p> + +<p>It is almost impossible to describe the beauty of the scenery here. The +road goes in a zig-zag the whole way. We passed several substantial +viaducts across the Savage river, often at a great height<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">[Pg 149]</a></span> above the +valley, and on many occasions, when the road made one of its rapid +turns, a vista of many miles up the gorges was obtained.</p> + +<p>Of course the greatest skill is required in driving the engine up what +is called the "Mountain Division." We mounted on the locomotive, to have +a more perfect view of the ascent. This locomotive is very different to +an English one, as the place where the driver sits is enclosed on three +sides with glass, so as to shelter him and those with him from the +weather. Mr. Tyson thought it necessary to drive a small part of the way +himself; but after that, he resigned his position, as will be seen by +the following certificate, to one equally qualified for an emergency, +though hitherto his peculiar talent in that line had not been developed.</p> + +<blockquote><p class='right'>"Baltimore and Ohio Railway, Machinery Department.<br /> "Baltimore, Oct. 21st, 1858. </p> + +<p>"This is to certify that Mr. A. T. has occupied the position of +'Locomotive Engineer,' on the <i>Mountain Division</i> (3rd) of the +Baltimore and Ohio Railroad.</p> + +<p>"The term of his occupation has been characterised by a close +attention to his duties, and consequent freedom from accidents.</p> + +<p>(Signed)</p> + +<p class='right'>"<span class="smcap">Henry Tyson</span>, <br /> +"Master of Machinery, <br />"Baltimore and Ohio R. R. Co."</p></blockquote> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">[Pg 150]</a></span>Papa, in fact, drove the engine a considerable way up the steepest part +of the ascent, and as the driver must command an uninterrupted view of +the road before him, he had a capital opportunity of seeing the country. +Thrower and I sat on a seat behind him; but he alone had the full view, +as the chimney of the engine rather obstructed ours in front, though on +each side we saw perfectly. The whistle of the engine, when so close to +our ears, was splendid, or perhaps you would have said, terrific.</p> + +<p>From Altamont to Cranberry Summit, where the descent begins, there is a +comparatively level country, called the Glades, which are beautiful +natural meadows undulating and well cultivated, with high ranges of +mountains, generally at no great distance from the road, but varying a +good deal in this respect, so as sometimes to leave a considerable plain +between it and the range. From these glades numerous valleys diverge, +and, in looking down these, splendid vistas are obtained. The verdure +even now is very bright, and the streams, which are everywhere to be +seen, are remarkably clear and pure; so that although the interest of +the road was less absorbing than when we were ascending the mountains, +it was still very great. From Cranberry Summit the distant views to the +westward were quite magnificent.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">[Pg 151]</a></span></p> + +<p>We now entered on what is called the "Cheat River Region," and the +descent to Grafton (a distance of thirty miles) is even more beautiful +than the ascent to Altamont. To give you some slight idea of the nature +of the road and of the scenery, I enclose a photograph of one of the +bridges over the Cheat River. This is called the Tray Run Viaduct, and +it is 640 feet long; the masonry is seventy-eight feet high, and the +iron-work above that is eighty feet. The road here is about seven +hundred feet above the river, which runs in the valley below. This +river, the Cheat, is a dark, rapid, mountain stream, the waters of which +are almost of a coffee-colour, owing, it is said, to its rising in +forests of laurel and black spruce, with which the high lands here +abound.</p> + +<p>We passed hereabouts many curious-looking log houses, a photograph of +one of which we enclose.<a name="FNanchor_7_7" id="FNanchor_7_7"></a><a href="#Footnote_7_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a> You will observe the man with a cradle by +his side, and his whip, gun, bottle, jar, &c., also the chimney, which +is a remarkable structure, consisting of a barrel above a heap of +stones, showing the resources of the West.</p> + +<p>Before reaching Grafton, we passed the Great<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">[Pg 152]</a></span> Kingwood tunnel, which is +much thought of in America, being 4100 feet in length, though it is +greatly beat by many of our tunnels in England; but tunnels are rare in +America, as the roads generally run through the valleys.</p> + +<p>We reached Grafton at four o'clock, and had a lovely afternoon to +explore the beauties of the neighbourhood. We went into a number of +cottages and log-huts, and were delighted with the people; but the +details of our Grafton visit must be given to you <i>vivâ voce</i> on our +return. The night was brilliant, and it was one o'clock in the morning +before we took our last look of the moonlit valley, and of the rivers +which here joined their streams almost under the windows of our rooms.</p> + +<p>We may mention that in this day's journey, we passed the source of the +Monongahela, the chief branch of what afterwards becomes the Ohio. It is +here a tiny little clear stream, winding through the glades we have +spoken of.</p> + +<p>On Thursday morning, though it was past one before we went to bed, I was +up at six, as soon as it was light, to make a sketch from our bed-room +window, which will give you hereafter some notion of the scene, though +neither description nor drawing can convey any real idea of it. After +breakfast,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">[Pg 153]</a></span> papa and I and Thrower went up a tolerably steep hill to the +cottage of three old ladies, whose characters I had an opportunity of +studying while papa went on with the guide to the Great National or +State Turnpike Road, or "Pike Road" as they called it, which used to be +the connecting link between Washington and Southern Virginia. Though +much disused it is still well kept up. After going along it for some +distance, papa struck up to the top of a high hill, from whence he had a +magnificent view of the valleys on both sides of the ridge he was on, +and he was surprised to find what large tracts of cultivated ground were +visible, while to those below there seemed nothing but forest-covered +mountains, but between these he could see extensive glades, where every +patch was turned to account. This we afterwards saw from other parts of +the road.</p> + +<p>While papa was taking his hasty walk, Thrower and I sat down in the +log-hut where these three old spinster sisters had lived all their +lives. They were quite characters, and cultivated their land entirely +with their own hands; though, when we asked their ages, two of them said +they were "in fifty," and one "in sixty;" they were most intelligent and +agreeable, and two looked very healthy; but the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">[Pg 154]</a></span> third had just had a +severe illness, and looked very ill. One was scraping the Indian corn +grains off the cob, using another cob to assist her in the work; we +watched the beautifully-productive plant, and admired its growth. Their +cottage or hut looked quite comfortable, and there were substantial log +stables and farm-buildings adjoining. When the weather permitted, they +got down the hill to Grafton to the Methodist meeting. There is no +Episcopal church there yet, excepting a Roman Catholic one, to which +they will not go, though they speak with thankfulness of the kindness +they have received from the priest.</p> + +<p>They said their father used to tell them to read their Bible, do their +duty, and learn their way to heaven, and this they wished to do. They +were honest, straightforward good women, and <i>ladies</i> in their minds, +though great curiosities to look at.</p> + +<p>This walk, and our subsequent explorings in Grafton, occupied the whole +forenoon, the temptation to pick the red leaves and shake the trees for +hickory nuts being very great, and having greatly prolonged the time +which our walk occupied. But the village itself, for it is no more, +though, having a mayor, it calls itself a city, had great objects of +interest, and is a curious instance of what a railway<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">[Pg 155]</a></span> will do in +America to <i>make</i> a town; for it scarcely had any existence three years +ago, and is now full of artificers and others employed in the railway +works, all fully occupied, and earning excellent wages.</p> + +<p>The people marry so early that the place was almost overflowing with +children, who certainly bore evidence in their looks to the healthiness +of the climate.</p> + +<p>This being a slave state, there was a sprinkling of a black population; +and among the slaves we were shocked by observing a little girl, with +long red ringlets and a skin exquisitely fair, and yet of the proscribed +race, which made the institution appear more revolting in our eyes than +anything we have yet seen. The cook at the hotel was a noble-looking +black, tall and well-made, and so famous for his skill at omelettes, +that we begged him to give us a lesson on the subject, which he +willingly did. I asked him if he were a slave, and he replied, making me +a low bow, "No, ma'am, I belong to myself." The little red-haired girl +was a slave of the mistress of the hotel.</p> + +<p>We again linked ourselves on to a train which came up at about one +o'clock, and at Benton's Ferry, about twenty miles from Grafton, we +crossed the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">[Pg 156]</a></span> Monongahela, over a viaduct 650 feet long; the iron bridge, +which consists of three arches of 200 feet span each, being the longest +iron bridge in America. Though the water was not very deep, owing to a +recent drought, it was curious to see the little stream of yesterday +changed into an already considerable river, almost beating any we can +boast of in England.</p> + +<p>We now began to wind our way down the ravine called Buffalo Creek, which +we passed at Fairmont, over a suspension bridge 1000 feet long. The road +still continued very beautiful, and was so all the way to this place, +Wheeling, which we reached at about six o'clock. The last eleven miles +was up the banks of the <i>real</i> Ohio, for the Monongahela, after we last +left it, takes a long course northward, and after being joined at +Pittsburg by the Alleghany, a river as large as itself, the two together +there, form the Ohio. From Pittsburg to where we first saw it, it had +come south more than 100 miles, and at Wheeling it is so broad and deep +as to be covered with magnificent steamers; there were five in front of +our hotel window, and most singular-looking they were, with their one +huge wheel behind, scarcely touching the water, and their two tall +funnels in front. They tower up to a great height, and are<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">[Pg 157]</a></span> certainly +the most splendid-looking steamers we ever saw.</p> + +<p>We here left our valued friend Mr. Tyson, who after calling on us at the +hotel in the evening, was to return at ten o'clock to Baltimore. We +certainly never enjoyed a journey more. He is the most entertaining man +you can imagine, full of anecdotes and good stories; and, as we have +said before, with such a marvellous memory, that he could repeat whole +passages of poetry by heart. His knowledge too of botany was delightful, +for there was not a plant or weed we passed of which he could not only +tell the botanical and common name, but its history and use. He has +travelled much, having been employed in mining business in the Brazils. +He has also been in the West Indies, in England, Scotland, and Ireland, +and on the Continent of Europe.</p> + +<p>We had a pleasing variety in occasional visitors to the car; for not +only the work-people on the road, as I have said, got up behind to speak +to Mr. Tyson, and were always received by him in the most friendly +manner, being men of high calibre in point of intelligence, but we had +at different times a Dr. Orr, a physician and director of the railway, +who was on the engine with us to set our bones, if papa had capsized us +and the doctor had escaped;<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">[Pg 158]</a></span> also a Dr. Gerbard, a German surgeon, with +a scar on his cheek from a duel at college in his youth. Dr. Orr was +accompanied by a lady, with whom I conversed a good deal, and found she +was the owner of many slaves; but I must write you a chapter on slavery +another time. All the last day of our journey from Grafton to Wheeling, +was through Virginia, and the rural population were chiefly slaves. The +two doctors I have mentioned were our visitors yesterday. To-day, we had +throughout with us Mr. Rennie (Mr. Tyson's assistant), and also Major +Barry, an agent of the Company, and an officer in the United States +service, who in the last Indian war captured with his own hand, Black +Hawk, the great Indian Chief, in Illinois. He is an Irishman by birth, +and had been in our service at the battle of Waterloo, but he left the +British army, and entered the United States service in 1818. He was very +intelligent and agreeable. Our last visitor was Colonel Moore, also an +agent of the company; a most gentleman-like man. This will show you what +a superior set of men are employed on American railways.</p> + +<p>Among the men who spoke to us as we stood on our balcony, was a +delightful character, a nigger.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">[Pg 159]</a></span> I heard Mr. Tyson look over and say, +"Jerry, why did you not tell me you were going to get married?" Up came +Jerry, looking the very picture of a happy bridegroom, having been +married the evening before to a dark widow considerably older than +himself. He was quite a "get up" in his dress, with boots of a +glistening blackness. He answered, "I sent you an invitation, Mr. Tyson, +and left it at your office." He was nothing daunted by his interesting +position in life, and had a week's holiday in honour of the event. He +was, to use his own expression, a "'sponsible nigger," though he was +actually only cleaner up, and carpet sweeper in the office, negroes +never being allowed to have any charge in the working of the line, or a +more "'sponsible" station than that connected with the office work, +though in that they are often confidentially employed in carrying money +to the bank, &c.</p> + +<p><i>Columbus, Friday 22nd.</i>—It began to rain last night, and continued to +pour to-day till ten o'clock, so that we had no opportunity of seeing +much of the town of Wheeling, but our rooms looked on to the Ohio, and +were within a stone's throw of it. Another great steamer had come up in +the night, so there were <i>six</i> now lying in front of the windows, +looking like so many line-of-battle ships.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">[Pg 160]</a></span></p> + +<p>We found that Jerry and his lady slept at our hotel, and I sent for them +next morning to speak to us. She was smartly dressed in a dark silk, +with a richly embroidered collar and pocket handkerchief, which she +carefully displayed, and a large brooch. He wore a turn-down collar to +his shirt, of the most fashionable cut; the shirt itself had a pale blue +pattern on it, and a diamond (?) shirt pin, the shirt having a frill <i>en +jabot</i>. His face was shining and glistening with cleanliness and +happiness, and she looked up to him as if she were very proud of her +young husband. He said he was very happy, and I complimented her on her +dress, and asked her if she had bought much for the occasion, and she +admitted that she had. I asked her where they went to church (all +niggers are great worshippers somewhere, and generally are Methodists); +and he said he went to the "Methodist Church," that his wife was a +member, and I encouraged him to continue going regularly. He said he had +married her for the purpose of doing so, and evidently looked up to her +as a teacher in these matters. They said they could both read printed +characters, but not writing, and that they read their Bibles. I asked +him if there were any other cars on the line like Mr. Tyson's, and he +said, "Yes, several,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">[Pg 161]</a></span> miss." "Are they handsomer than his?" "Some are, +they are all different in their fancy principle." He told us, of his own +accord, that they had both been slaves. He bought his freedom for five +hundred dollars. They both had been kindly treated as slaves, but he +said, not only the hickory stick, but the "raw hide," was frequently +used by unkind masters and mistresses; and, on my asking him whether +slaves had any redress in such cases, he said their free friends may try +to get some redress for them, but it does no good. This was <i>his</i> +testimony on the subject, and I shall give you the testimony of every +one as I gather it for you to put together, that you may be able to form +your own deductions. Mr. Tyson had told us they <i>had</i> redress, though he +is an enemy to the "institution" of slavery, as it is here called, but +still maintains, what is no doubt the case, that they are oftener much +happier in America than the free negro. Indeed he told us a well-treated +slave will look down on a freeman, and say, "<i>Ah! yes, he's only some +poor free trash. He's a poor white free trash.</i>" It was curious to +notice Jerry's sayings, only some of which I can remember. Mr. Tyson +looked down the line from the balcony yesterday, and said, to Jerry, who +had got out of a passenger car<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">[Pg 162]</a></span> for a minute, "Jerry, do you see the +train coming?" "Yes, sir; it blowed right up there;" meaning it had +whistled. I will write to you more at large ere long about slavery, when +I have not topics pressing on time and pen.</p> + +<p>We left our hotel this morning at eight o'clock, and even in the omnibus +noticed the improved and very intelligent appearance of the men. They +answered us quickly, cheerfully, and to the purpose; many wore large +picturesque felt hats of various forms. It is true that, on starting, we +were still in Virginia, of which Wheeling is one of the largest towns; +but the bulk of our fellow-passengers were evidently from the West; they +are chiefly descendants of the New Englanders, and partake of their +character, with the exception of the nasal twang, which is worse in New +England than anywhere else in America, and we are now losing the sound +of it. The omnibus made a grand circuit of the town to pick up +passengers, and thus gave us the only opportunity we had of seeing +something of it. It rained in torrents, and this probably made it look +more dismal than usual, but it certainly is much less picturesque and +more English-looking than any town we have yet seen. The coal and iron, +which constitute its chief trade, give it a very dirty appearance; but<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">[Pg 163]</a></span> +its natural situation, stretching along the banks of the Ohio, which are +here very high on both sides, is very beautiful. The omnibus at last +crossed the river by a very fine suspension bridge, and, having left the +slave states behind us, we found ourselves in the free State of Ohio.</p> + +<p>On the opposite side of the river we entered the cars of the Ohio +Central Railroad, but alas! we had no Mr. Tyson, and no sofas or tables +or balconies, and were again simple members of the public, destined to +enjoy all the tortures of the common cars. These however were in +first-rate style, with velvet seats, and prettily painted, with +brilliant white panelled ceilings; and we here fell in again, to my no +small comfort, with the venders of fruit and literature, or "pedlaring," +as it is called, which forms a pleasant break in the tedium of a long +journey. I have been often told the reverse, but the literature sold in +this way is, as far as we have seen, rather creditable than otherwise to +the country, being generally of an instructive and useful character. +Many works published quite recently in England, could be bought either +in the cars or at the stores; and some of the better class of English +novels are reprinted in America, and sold at the rate of two or three +shillings a volume. The daily newspapers, sold on the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">[Pg 164]</a></span> railways, are +numerous; but these, with very few exceptions, are quite unworthy of the +country. In general there are no articles worth reading, for they are +filled with foolish and trashy anecdotes, written, apparently, by +penny-a-liners of the lowest order of ability. The magazines, and some +of the weekly illustrated papers, are a degree better, but a great deal +of the wit in these is reproduced from "Punch."</p> + +<p>The first eighty-two miles to Zanesville were through a pretty and hilly +country. The hills were as usual covered with woods of every hue, so +that though the scenery was inferior to what we had been passing through +for the last few days, it was still very beautiful. Zanesville, which is +a considerable town, is situated on the Muskingham river. This fine +broad stream must add considerably to the waters of the Ohio, into which +it falls soon after leaving Zanesville.</p> + +<p>At Zanesville, after partaking of an excellent dinner, we were joined by +an intelligent woman, returning home, with her little baby of ten weeks +old, from a visit she had just been making to her mother. Her own home +is in Missouri, and her husband being the owner of a farm of 500 acres, +she was able to give us a good deal of information about the state of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">[Pg 165]</a></span> +agriculture in the Far West. I learnt much from her on various subjects, +and was much surprised at the quick sharp answers she gave to all my +questions. She was well dressed, something in the style of the English +lady's maid, was evidently well to do, and was travelling night and day +with her merry little baby. She possesses one slave of fourteen, for +whom she gave four hundred dollars, whom she has had from infancy; she +brings her up as her own, and this black girl is now taking care of her +other children in her absence. I asked, "What do the slaves eat?" +"Everything: corn-bread, that's the most." Papa said, "It is a great +shame making Missouri a slave state."</p> + +<p><i>Woman.</i> "Ah yes; keeps it back."</p> + +<p><i>Self.</i> "Have you good health?"—many parts being said to be unhealthy.</p> + +<p><i>Woman.</i> A quick nod. "First-rate."</p> + +<p><i>Self.</i> "Did your mother give you the hickory stick?"</p> + +<p><i>Woman.</i> "No: the switch:—raised me on the rod of correction."</p> + +<p><i>Self.</i> "Had your husband the farm before you married?"</p> + +<p><i>Woman.</i> "His father had 'entered it,' and he gave my husband money, and +my mother gave me<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">[Pg 166]</a></span> money, and then we married and 'entered it' +ourselves."</p> + +<p>All these answers came out with the utmost quickness and intelligence. +She is an Irish Roman Catholic, her mother having brought her as a baby +from Ireland, her husband is also Irish; but they are now Americans of +the Far West in their manner and singular intelligence, beating even the +clever Irish in this respect.</p> + +<p>I said: "Do you pray much to the Virgin Mary in your part of America?"</p> + +<p><i>Woman.</i> "No: don't notice her much."</p> + +<p><i>Self.</i> "I am glad of that."</p> + +<p><i>Woman.</i> "We respect her as the mother of God."</p> + +<p>She said the corn on the road-side we were then passing was far inferior +to western produce, that it ought to be much taller, and that if it were +so, the ear would be much larger and fuller. Our English wheat is never +called corn, but simply wheat; and the other varieties oats, rye, &c., +are called by their different names, but the generic term <i>corn</i>, in +America, always means Indian corn. It is necessary to know this in order +to prevent confusion in conversation. This woman's name was Margaret<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">[Pg 167]</a></span> +M.; she was twenty-seven years of age, but looked younger; her husband, +James M., was thirty-six.</p> + +<p>I asked her whether he was tall or short. "Oh tall, of course. I +wouldn't have had a poor short man." So we looked at papa, and laughed, +and said our tastes were the same. She was a most agreeable companion. +She noticed that I was reading a novel by the author of "John Halifax," +which I had bought, the whole three volumes, for 1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i>, and said, +"Ah! that's the sort of reading I like. That's a novel; but my priest +tells me not to read that kind, that it fills me with silly thoughts; +but to read something to make me more intelligent." I thought there +seemed no deficiency in this respect, but agreed that the advice was +good, and said that I had bought this for cheapness, and for being +portable, it being in the pamphlet form; and that I was so interrupted +with looking at the lovely scenery when travelling, that I could not +take in anything deeper.</p> + +<p>We wished each other good bye, and she wished me a happy meeting again +with our children. And now papa says this must be closed, and it +certainly has attained to no mean length, so I will not begin another +sheet, and hope you will not be wearied with this long chapter.</p> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTE:</h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_7_7" id="Footnote_7_7"></a><a href="#FNanchor_7_7"><span class="label">[7]</span></a> These photographs cannot be reproduced here, which I +regret, as they were very well done.</p></div> +</div> + +<hr /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">[Pg 168]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="LETTER_IX" id="LETTER_IX"></a>LETTER IX.</h2> + +<blockquote><p>JOURNEY FROM WHEELING TO COLUMBUS.— FIRE IN THE MOUNTAINS.— MR. +TYSON'S STORIES.— COLUMBUS.— PENITENTIARY.— CAPITOL.— GOVERNOR +CHASE.— CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS.— ARRIVAL AT CINCINNATI.</p></blockquote> + +<p class='right'>Columbus, Oct. 23rd, 1858.</p> + +<p>The letter which I sent you from this place this morning will have told +you of our arrival here, but it was closed in such haste that I omitted +many things which I ought to have mentioned. It, moreover, carried us +only to Zanesville, and I ought to have told you that the view continued +very pretty all the way to this place, and the day having cleared up at +noon, we had a brilliant evening to explore this town.</p> + +<p>Before describing Columbus, however, I shall go back to some omissions +of a still older date; for I ought to have told you of a grand sight we +saw the day we passed the Alleghany Ridge. On the preceding evening Mr. +Tyson received a telegraphic message to say that an extensive fire was +raging in the forest; it is supposed to have been caused by some people +shooting in the woods. It must have been a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">[Pg 169]</a></span> grand sight to the +passengers by the train from which we had separated, and which went on +during the night through the scene of the conflagration, for the fire +was much more extensive than those which are constantly taking place, +and which are passed by unheeded,—unhonoured with a telegraphic notice. +When we passed by the place next morning it was still burning +vigorously, but the daylight rendered the flames almost imperceptible. +It was curious, however, to see the volumes of smoke, which we first +perceived in a hollow. The fire was then travelling down the side of the +mountain; and long after we passed the immediate spot we saw the fire +winding about the mountains, spreading greatly, in the direction of the +wind and making its way even against it, though it was blowing with +considerable violence. The people in the neighbourhood were busily +employed in trying to save their hayricks from destruction. Mr. Tyson +said they would probably succeed in this, though the whole of the forest +was likely to be burnt, as the fire would wind about among the mountains +and pass from one to another for perhaps two months, unless a heavy rain +put it out. This we hope has been the case, as it poured in torrents all +the following night when we were at Wheeling.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">[Pg 170]</a></span></p> + +<p>Another circumstance we ought to have mentioned was our passing through +a very long tunnel, called the Board Tree Tunnel, about 340 miles from +Baltimore. This tunnel, after having fallen in, has only been repaired +within the last two months. The history of this catastrophe, and of the +mode of remedying it, forms quite an incident in the history of the +railway, and shows with what resolution difficulties in this country are +overcome. To reopen the tunnel it was clear would be a work of time, so +Mr. Tyson resolved to run a new temporary railway for three miles over +the mountain which had been tunnelled, and this was accomplished by 3000 +men in ten days. We saw the place where this road had passed, and the +zig-zag line by which the mountain was crossed. The road seems +positively to overhang the precipice, and reminded me of a mountain pass +in Switzerland—as, indeed, the whole of the road here does. Mr. Tyson +himself drove the first train over, and he said his heart was in his +mouth when, having got to the top, he saw the descent before him, and +the engine and train on a precipice where the least <i>contretemps</i> would +have plunged the whole into the abyss below; but happily all went right, +and till within the last two months this temporary road has been used.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">[Pg 171]</a></span> +It was really quite frightful to look up and think a train could pass +over such a place, the grade being 420 feet in a mile, or 1 in 12½; but +you will one day be able to form some idea of it, as a photograph was +taken, and Mr. Tyson will give us a copy of it. This is certainly a +wonderful country for great enterprises, and the Pennsylvania Central +Railway, by which we contemplate recrossing the Alleghanies, is in some +respects a still more remarkable undertaking, though the height at which +the mountains are crossed on that line is not so great as that on the +Baltimore and Ohio line, which, as I told you in my last, is at an +elevation of 2700 feet. It was long supposed that such a feat could not +be surpassed, but Mr. Tyson says that, encouraged by this, a railway now +crosses the Tyrolean Alps at a somewhat higher level.</p> + +<p>To return, however, to the Board Tree Tunnel: Mr. Tyson told us that the +difficulty of restoring it to a safe condition was so great as almost to +dishearten him till he had arched it completely over from one end to the +other with solid stone masonry, which has rendered the recurrence of the +accident impossible; but the disheartening circumstance, while the work +was in progress, was the danger to which the men employed in the work +were exposed, from the con<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">[Pg 172]</a></span>stant falling in of the roof. During its +progress no less than forty-five men were killed, and about 400 severely +wounded. They were chiefly Roman Catholics, and were it not for the +encouragement given by an energetic Roman Catholic priest, he hardly +thinks the men would have continued the work. The doctor, too, who +attended the wounded, and whom we saw at breakfast at Grafton, was also +most devoted to them. It was quite touching to hear the tender-hearted +way in which Mr. Tyson spoke of the poor sufferers, for he was +constantly there, and often saw them go in to almost certain death. He +mentioned one poor widow to whom he had just sent three hundred dollars +as a gift from the railway.</p> + +<p>Before leaving the subject of Mr. Tyson, I must tell you one or two of +his good stories. I had been telling him of the negro meeting, which I +described to you in my last. In it I told you how the negroes had cried +out "glory! glory!" from which it appears it is almost impossible that +they can refrain. In corroboration of this he told us of a nigger woman +who was sold from a Baptist to a Presbyterian family. In general slaves +adopt, at once, the habits and doctrines of their new owners; but this +poor woman could not restrain herself, and greatly disturbed the +Presbyterian congregation, by shouting out<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">[Pg 173]</a></span> "glory! glory!" in the +middle of the service. Next morning the minister sent for her and +rebuked her for this unseemly interruption of his sermon; but she said +doggedly, "Can't help it, sir; I'm all full of glory; must shout it +out." Many of his amusing stories were about Irish labourers employed on +the road. One of these, whose duty it was to show a light at the station +as the train passed, failed one night to do so, and was seen asleep. The +man who drove the engine threw a cinder at him as he passed, to awake +him; but, instead of hitting him, the cinder broke his lamp glass. All +this was told to Mr. Tyson, and also that the man was very angry at his +lamp being broken. When Mr. T. went down the line next day, he stopped +to lecture him, and the following colloquy ensued:—</p> + +<p><i>Mr. Tyson.</i> "Well, your lamp was broke, I hear, yesterday."</p> + +<p><i>Irishman.</i> "O, yes sir;" (terrified out of his life at the scolding he +feared was coming, for he saw that Mr. Tyson knew all about it;) "but I +forgive the blackguards intirely, sir, I <i>quite</i> forgive them."</p> + +<p>Mr. T. kept his counsel, said nothing more, and the lamp has never +failed since; but half the merit of this story depended on Mr. Tyson's +way of telling it. He was deliciously graphic also, and full<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">[Pg 174]</a></span> of witty +sayings of his own. When, for example, I showed him my photograph of +your little brother, he exclaimed, "Well, he <i>is</i> a fine fellow; <span class="smcap">he</span> +don't mind if corn is five dollars a bushel." I think you will all +appreciate this as a perfect description of the unconcern of a healthy +intelligent-looking child, unconscious of the anxieties of those about +him; but I must reserve his other good sayings and stories till we meet.</p> + +<p>To-day we have been most busily employed, for Mr. Garrett, our railway +friend at Baltimore, not only did us the good service of sending us by +the car under Mr. Tyson's auspices, but gave us letters of introduction +both to this place and to Cincinnati; and his letters here to Mr. Neil +and Mr. Dennison have been of great use to us, as one or the other of +them has been in attendance upon us since 11 o'clock this morning, +together with a very pleasing person, a widow, niece of Mr. Neil, and +they have shown us the town in first-rate style.</p> + +<p>Columbus is built on the banks of the Sciota, about 90 miles from the +point where it falls into the Ohio. It is the capital of the State, and +its streets, like those of Washington, have been laid out with a view to +its becoming one day a town of importance; but as the preparations for +this,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">[Pg 175]</a></span> though on a considerable scale, are not so great as at +Washington, the non-completion of the plan in its full extent produces +no disagreeable effect. In fact, the streets where finished are +completely so, and the unfinished parts consist of an extension of +these, in the shape of long avenues of trees. In the principal streets +the houses are not continuous, but in detached villas, and, judging by +the one in which Mr. Neil lives, appear to be very comfortable +residences. He and his niece called upon us yesterday evening, and, +although he is an elderly gentleman, he was here by appointment this +morning at half-past 8, and took papa to call on Mr. Dennison, when they +arranged together the programme for the day.</p> + +<p>At 11 o'clock Mr. Dennison called, and took us to the Penitentiary, +where nearly 700 prisoners are confined. I think he said 695, although +it will hold the full number of 700 if need be. For the credit of the +sex, I must say that only ten out of the whole are females. These ten +are lodged each in a small room, for it can scarcely be called a cell, +very well furnished, and opening into a large sitting-room, of which +they all have the unrestrained use, although the presence of a matron +puts a restraint on their tongues. They were employed in needlework. The +cells of the men are arranged in tiers,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">[Pg 176]</a></span> and are certainly very +different looking habitations to those of the women, and greatly +inferior in size and airiness to the cells at Philadelphia, where, in +addition to the grating in front of the cell, there was a door behind +leading into a small enclosure or court. Here the only opening in the +cell is by a door into a long gallery, and the cells were much smaller +than either at Philadelphia or at Kingston; but the prisoners only +inhabit these cells at night, the solitary system not being adopted or +approved of here.</p> + +<p>The silent system, however, is practised here as at Kingston, and the +prisoners are employed in large workshops, chiefly in making +agricultural instruments, hoops for casks, saddles, carpenters' tools, +and even rocking horses and toys, which must be rather heart-breaking +work for those who have children. The men have certain tasks allotted +them, and when the day's work is done, may devote the rest of their time +to working on their own account, which most of them do; the chief warden +told us that he had lately paid a man, on his leaving the prison, a +hundred and twenty-five dollars for extra work done in this way. The +warden told us that the men, when discharged, were always strongly urged +to return to their own homes instead of seeking to retrieve their<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">[Pg 177]</a></span> +characters elsewhere, and that their doing so was generally attended +with a better result than when they went to a new place and had no check +on their proceedings. This does away with the chief argument of our +quaker friend at Philadelphia, in favour of the solitary system, which +was, that the prisoner's return to his friends became more easy, when +none of them knew that he had been in prison, of which they could not +well be ignorant if he had mixed with other prisoners in a public jail. +It must be borne in mind, however, that the great demand in this country +for work renders it much more easy for a person so circumstanced to +obtain employment, even with a damaged character, than in England, where +our ticket-of-leave men find this almost impossible. There is also, we +are told, a kinder feeling towards prisoners here on their leaving the +jail than in England, and this saves them from the want and consequent +temptation to which our English ticket-of-leave men are exposed; the +result is that a much less proportion of those released in America are +re-committed for new offences.</p> + +<p>We visited the workshops, and afterwards went into a large court to see +the men defile in gangs, and march into their dining hall, in which we +afterwards saw them assembled at dinner, and a capital savoury<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">[Pg 178]</a></span> dinner +it seemed to be. They have as much bread as they choose to eat, and meat +twice a day; their drink is water, except when the doctor orders it +otherwise. There are chaplains, called here Moral Instructors, who visit +them and perform the service in the chapel, and evening schools are +provided, at which the chaplains attend to teach reading, writing, and +arithmetic. A library of books of general information is provided for +the prisoner's use, and to each a Bible is given, and they are allowed +to buy sound and useful books. They have each a gas lamp in their cell, +which enables them to read there when their work is done, and they are +allowed to see their friends in the presence of an officer. Sixty of the +prisoners were Negroes, which is a large proportion when compared with +the total numbers of the white and black population, especially as the +blacks are often let off, owing to the leniency of the committing +magistrates who have compassion on their inferior intelligence; and it +is owing, it is said, to a like leniency that there are so few females, +though certainly not for the same reason. There are a large number of +Irish in the prison.</p> + +<p>Our next visit, still under Mr. Dennison's escort, was to the Capitol or +State House, a very fine building of white limestone. The façade is more +than<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">[Pg 179]</a></span> 300 feet long, and the height nearly 160 feet to the top of the +dome. This however has not yet been completed. The architecture is +Grecian. Here, as at Washington, are Halls for the Senate and House of +Representatives, in equally good taste and somewhat similarly arranged. +Mr. Dennison, who had once been a member of the Senate, was repudiating +the accounts so commonly given of the behaviour of the senators, when +Mr. Niel came in, and over-hearing what he was saying, begged to remark +that when they "went to work" they usually divested themselves of their +coats without substituting any senatorial garment in its place; and +putting his legs on the desk before the chair, he declared that such was +the usual posture in which they listened to the oratory of the place.<a name="FNanchor_8_8" id="FNanchor_8_8"></a><a href="#Footnote_8_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a></p> + +<p>We afterwards went through the apartments appropriated to the Treasurer +and Auditor of the State, the two chief officers of the Government, +which are very capacious and well fitted up—and we<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">[Pg 180]</a></span> were specially +introduced to both these functionaries; Mr. Neil, who is somewhat of a +wag, was rather jocose with them, and high as their position here is, +they very cordially retaliated on him. We next went to those +appropriated to the Governor of the State, General Chase, in order that +we might be introduced to him, but he was out, which we regretted. He is +a candidate to succeed Mr. Buchanan as President. The remainder of the +building was occupied by numerous committee-rooms, by the courts of law, +the judges' apartments, a law library, and a beautiful room intended for +a general library, but in which the collection of books at present is +very small. On the whole the building and its contents are very +creditable to this, the largest and wealthiest of the States in the +West, considering that forty years ago the country here was a wild +forest region where no tree had been cut down.</p> + +<p><i>25th October.</i>—We have seen Columbus well, and it has much to attract +attention. On Saturday we went from the Capitol to the Lunatic Asylum, +but excepting in its being more pleasingly arranged than the one at +Utica, there was nothing very striking in its appearance. The galleries +in which the patients were walking were prettily decorated with flowers +cut out in paper, giving it a very<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">[Pg 181]</a></span> gay appearance; and when the +patients become desponding, they have a dance in the great hall, to +revive them. The matron who went round with us said that the men and +women conduct themselves on these occasions with perfect propriety. The +men and women are otherwise so entirely separated in this Asylum that +papa went round to the men's wards with the doctor, while I was taken +round by the matron to those appropriated to the women. We thought it a +pleasant, cheerful-looking place, considering the melancholy object to +which it is devoted.</p> + +<p>The next sight we saw was, the Asylum for the Deaf and Dumb: being +Saturday, we could not see the mode of tuition, but we have gone through +it this morning, and yesterday we attended the afternoon service there, +so that in our three visits we have been able to form a pretty good idea +of the system carried out. They have an alphabet by which they can spell +words, which they do by using one hand only. They speak thus with +considerable rapidity, but this method is confined almost entirely to +express proper names and words of uncommon use, as the whole +conversation is carried on in general by signs, and it was most +beautiful to see the graceful manner in which the matron spoke to them.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">[Pg 182]</a></span> +As this system of signs does not represent words, but <i>things</i> and +<i>ideas</i>, it has the great advantage of being universally understood when +taught, and as the same system is adopted in several countries of +Europe, in Norway and Sweden for example, a Norwegian and American child +can converse easily together without either knowing a syllable of the +other's language. It seems quite as rapid as talking.</p> + +<p>We were present at the afternoon sermon, which lasted about half an +hour, the subject being that of Simeon in the Temple, and except to +express Simeon's name, there was no use at all made of the fingers. Dr. +Stone, the principal, had preached in the morning on the subject of +Daniel's interpretation of Nebuchadnezzar's dream, and when we went, the +children were being examined on the subject of this lecture. We <i>saw</i> a +number of questions asked, but in this case the words were spelled in +order that Dr. Stone, who was teaching them, might be satisfied that +they understood the full meaning of the question in its grammatical +sense, as well as its general signification, and the answers were all +written down on large black boards. They wrote with prodigious rapidity +in large distinct writing—and the answers, which were all different and +showed they were not got up by rote, were in most cases very good.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">[Pg 183]</a></span> This +was being done by the eldest class, and some of the elder boys and girls +seemed full of intelligence. We saw minutely only what was going on in +this and in the youngest class, which was no less remarkable, +considering that some of the children had not been more than two or +three months in the Asylum, and when they came there had no idea of +either reading or writing.</p> + +<p>When I say the youngest class, it is not with reference to the age of +the pupils, but to the recent period of their admission, for some of +them were as old in years as in the first class, while others were very +young; one of them, a very pretty little Jewish girl with sparkling +intelligent eyes, was indeed a mere child. We had on Sunday seen this +little girl being taught her lesson, which consisted of the simple +words, "I must be kind," and it was very pretty to see the way in which +the notion of kindness was conveyed by signs. This morning she was +writing this on the slate, and she afterwards wrote in a very neat +handwriting a number of short words—cat, dog, horse, &c.—which were +dictated to her by signs which were of so simple a nature that we could +understand many of them; a goat, for example, was represented by the +fingers being stuck on each side of the head as<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">[Pg 184]</a></span> horns, and then by the +man drawing his hand down from his chin to indicate the beard. They thus +became acquainted by signs with almost every object in the first +instance, and are led on by degrees to complex ideas of every kind. Dr. +Stone says that the use of signs is known in England, but he believes is +never practised to any extent, and certainly not in giving religious +instruction. No attempt is made here, as in England, to teach them to +articulate, as he considered the attempt to do this to be a great +mistake, it being a painful effort to the child, which never leads to +any good practical result. In some cases where deafness has been +accidentally brought on after children have learned to speak, it is then +as far as possible kept up; but even then the effort, as we saw, was +very painful.</p> + +<p>Our next visit was to the Blind Institution, but here there was nothing +very remarkable, though owing to the children not being in school we saw +the Institution very imperfectly. Raised characters are used here, as I +believe everywhere else; one little girl who was called up read and +pronounced very well; we also heard some of them sing and play for a +considerable time. The bulk of the children, or rather young people, for +they keep them here till they are one or two and twenty, were<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">[Pg 185]</a></span> walking +about the gardens invariably in pairs, which seems an excellent +preservative against accidents: this they do of their own accord.</p> + +<p>We next went to the Idiot Asylum, but the children being, as usual on +Saturday, out of doors, we merely took a general look at the place, and +returned there this morning to see the system pursued for them more in +detail. Dr. Patterson, the superintendent, is a man of wonderful energy; +and two young women and a matron, the two young teachers especially, +must be exemplary characters, for they appear to devote themselves to +their work with an energy and kindness which is perfectly marvellous, +considering the apparently hopeless task they are engaged in. However, +when taken young, from six to seven years of age, the capabilities of +these poor children for improvement seem in general great, unless the +infirmity is occasioned by epileptic fits, when the cure is considered +almost hopeless. We were entertained by a story told by Dr. Patterson of +a boy brought to him by the Mayor of C., who told him it was a bad case, +but that he would be satisfied if he could fit him to be a missionary. +Dr. P. replied that he could not answer for that, but that he could at +all events fit him to be Mayor of C.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">[Pg 186]</a></span></p> + +<p>The great means resorted to for improvement is constant occupation, +changed every quarter of an hour through out the day. By this means +their physical power at night is nearly exhausted, and they invariably +sleep well; where no greater improvement is arrived at, they can in all +cases gain cleanly habits, and get entirely rid of that repulsive +appearance which an idiot left to himself is almost sure at last to +acquire. Active exercises are what they resort to in the first instance; +they have a large school-room fitted up with ladders and gymnastic +apparatus of all kinds. We saw little boys, who shortly before were +scarcely able to stand alone, climbing places which made me tremble for +their safety, but it was curious to observe with what caution they did +it.</p> + +<p>When we entered the room the youngest class were all standing round a +piano, at which one of the teachers was playing, whilst she and the +other teacher were leading them on in singing a cheerful song, and it +was really quite touching to hear and see them; they sang very fairly, +not worse than children usually do at that age. After a quarter of an +hour of this they went through their Calisthenic exercises, marching in +perfect time, clapping their hands, and going through different<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187">[Pg 187]</a></span> +gestures with great accuracy, and these poor children a very few months +ago had hardly any control over their actions.</p> + +<p>Another thing taught is, to distinguish colour and form—for which +purpose they have cards cut out into circles, squares, and octagons—and +other marked shapes, of every variety and shade of colour. Five or six +of these of different sorts were spread on the table, and a large +unsorted pack was placed before a little boy five or six years old, and +it was quite interesting to see him proceed to sort them by placing each +one on the top of the counterpart which had been placed at first on the +table. As there were many more kinds in the pack than those spread out +on the table, when he came to a new one he first placed it in contact +with the others to see if it suited, and after going round them all and +seeing that none were the same, he appeared puzzled, and at last set it +down in a place by itself. Although there was a certain degree of +vacancy in the expression of the child, it seemed quite to brighten up +at each successive step, and the occupation was evidently a source of +considerable enjoyment to him. This little fellow had been a very short +time in the Asylum, and when admitted had not the slightest idea of +form, colour, or size.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188">[Pg 188]</a></span></p> + +<p>Another mode adopted is, to take little blocks of wood of different +sizes and forms, which the child is required to fit into corresponding +holes cut out in a board. All this is for the least advanced pupils. +They learn afterwards to read and write, and some of the very little +ones traced lines upon a board as well as most children could do with +all their senses about them. The elder ones could write short words and +read easy books; they are taught to read by having short words like cow, +dog, ox, printed on cards, and are then shown by a picture what the +words represent, and they are not taught their letters or to spell words +till they begin to learn to write; the elementary books therefore +consist chiefly of words representing ideas quite independently of the +letters of which the words are formed. Many, however, can never fully +obtain the power of speech, and that without any physical defect in +their organs, and without the accompaniment of deafness, for they hear +perfectly. In these instances to teach them to speak is very difficult, +and sometimes hopeless. The poor little boy whom we saw sorting his +cards, was one of those cases in which no articulate sound had ever been +uttered, or could be produced by any teaching. At the same time the +development of his head, and that of many others,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189">[Pg 189]</a></span> was almost perfect +and quite a beau ideal of what a head should be.</p> + +<p>I forgot in speaking of the deaf and dumb to mention that their crying +and laughter were quite like those of other children, and it appears to +be the same with the idiots, even though they cannot speak. There was +among the idiots one boy in irons to support his legs, which were +otherwise quite without power, and he seemed under this treatment to be +rapidly improving. They all have meat twice a day, and great care is +taken to feed them generously. The only other sight in Columbus is the +Medical College, which, however, we had no time to go over. We must, +however, except the Governor's house, not forgetting its inmates, +Governor Chase himself, and his interesting daughter. We had been +introduced to the Governor by Mr. Dennison, after missing him on +Saturday at the Capitol, and he most kindly asked us to drink tea and +spend the evening with him, apologising for time not permitting his +daughter to call upon us. He is Governor of the State of Ohio, an office +that is held for two years. He is a first-rate man in talent and +character,—a strong abolitionist, and a thorough gentleman in his +appearance—showing that the active and adventurous habits of his +nation<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190">[Pg 190]</a></span> are quite consistent with the highest polish and refinement. He +is deeply involved in the politics of his country, and, as I said +before, is a candidate for the next presidentship. His strong views on +the question of slavery will probably be a bar to his success, but +unfortunately another hindrance may be that very high social character +for which he is so remarkable. To judge at least by the treatment of +such men as Henry Clay, and others of his stamp, it would appear as if +real merit were a hindrance rather than a help to the attainment of the +highest offices in America.<a name="FNanchor_9_9" id="FNanchor_9_9"></a><a href="#Footnote_9_9" class="fnanchor">[9]</a></p> + +<p>The Governor's house looked externally something like an English rectory +standing in a little garden, and we were at first shown into a small +sitting-room. It seems the fashion all over America, as it is abroad, to +leave the space open in the middle of the room, and the chairs and sofas +arranged round the walls, but there is always a good carpet of lively +colours or a matting in summer, and not the bare floor so constantly +seen in France and Germany. The little<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191">[Pg 191]</a></span> gathering consisted of the +Governor, his two daughters (his only children), his niece, and his +sister, Mr. Dennison, and Mr. Barnay, a clever New York lawyer, with +whom we had crossed the Atlantic. But if the Governor recommended +himself to us as a gentleman, what am I to say of his daughter? Papa has +gone out and has left her description to me, whereas he could give a +much more lively one, as he at once lost his heart to her. Her figure is +tall and slight, but at the same time beautifully rounded; her neck long +and graceful, with a sweet pretty brunette face. I seldom have seen such +lovely eyes and dark eyelashes; she has rich dark hair in great +profusion, but her style and dress were of the utmost simplicity and +grace, and I almost forgave papa for at once falling in love with her. +Her father has been three times a widower, though not older-looking than +papa, and with good reason he worships his daughter. She has been at the +head of her father's house for the last six months, and the <i>naïve</i> +importance she attached to her office gave an additional attraction to +her manners. While we sat talking in the little room the Governor handed +me a white and red rose as being the last of the season. He had placed +them ready for me in a glass, and I have dried them as a memorial of +that pleasant evening. We soon went<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192">[Pg 192]</a></span> into the dining-room, where tea and +coffee were laid out on a light oak table, with an excellent <i>compôte</i> +of apples, a silver basket full of sweet cakes, of which the Americans +are very fond: bread—alas! always cut in slices whether at the hotels +or in private, fresh butter,—an improvement on the usual salt butter of +the country, and served, as it generally is, in silver perforated dishes +to allow of the water from the ice to drain through, and a large tureen +of cream toast. This is also a common dish, being simply slices of toast +soaked in milk or cream and served hot. It often appears at the hotels, +but there it is milk toast, and is not so good. I thought the cream +toast excellent, and a great improvement on our bread and milk in +England, but papa did not like it. The Governor and his fair daughter +presided at the table, the Governor first saying grace very reverently, +and we had a very pleasant repast.</p> + +<p>After this we were conducted to the drawing-room. Such a <i>bijou</i> of a +room! The size was about twenty feet by eighteen, and the walls and +ceiling, including doors, window-frames, and shutters—there were no +curtains, might have been all made of the purest white china. It is a +most peculiar and desirable varnish which is used on their wood-work +that<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193">[Pg 193]</a></span> gives this effect. Mr. Tyson told us that it is made of Canada +balsam, and that it comes therefore from our own territory, so that it +is very stupid of Cubitt and others not to make use of it. The effect is +like what the white wood-work of our drawing-room was when it was first +finished, and you may imagine the appearance of the whole room being +done with this fine white polish everywhere. We see it in all the hotels +and railway carriages, so that it cannot be expensive. The windows were +pointed, and the shutters were made to slide into the walls. They were +shut on that evening, and were made, as they often are, with a small +piece of Venetian blind-work let into them, also painted white. If we +had called in the morning we should probably have found the room in +nearly total darkness, as we found to be the case at Mr. Neil's, for the +dear Americans seem too much afraid of their sun. There was a white +marble table in the centre of this drawing-room, and the room was well +lighted with gas. The only ornament was a most lovely ideal head in +marble by Power, the sculptor of the Greek slave. The simplicity and +beauty of the room could not be surpassed, and we spent a most +interesting evening.</p> + +<p>The father and daughter we found to be full of intelligence and +knowledge of our best authors,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194">[Pg 194]</a></span> though neither of them has ever been in +England. Miss Chase is much interested in a new conservatory, took me +over it, and gave me several very pretty things to dry. I shall +endeavour to get cuttings or seeds of them. I was generous enough to +allow papa afterwards to go over the conservatory alone with her. She is +longing to come and see England, but her father is too busy at present +to leave the country. She expressed such sorrow not to know more of us, +that we promised to call this morning after our "asylum" work was done, +when she showed us over the house, which is very pretty, and nicely +arranged throughout.</p> + +<p>I think I have nothing more to say of Columbus, except that we heard two +sermons and <i>saw</i> one on Sunday; for, besides the morning sermon at the +Episcopal Church, and the <i>sign</i> one to the deaf and dumb, we looked in +at another where a negro was preaching to his fellow niggers with great +energy and life; but the ladies were quiet, and restrained their agonies +and their "glory."</p> + +<p><i>Cincinnati, Oct. 27th.</i>—We left Columbus at forty minutes past twelve +yesterday. Mr. Dennison and Mr. Neil's son met us at the station, and +Mr. Neil gave me some dried red leaves he had promised me, which have +kept their colour tolerably well. Mr. D. is president<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195">[Pg 195]</a></span> of the railroad +on which we were about to travel, and wished to give us free tickets to +this place, but papa declined with many thanks. Papa has no sort of +claim or connection with this railway, and I only mention the +circumstance to show the extreme kindness and liberality of these +gentlemen, who knew nothing of us, and probably had never heard our +names until they had received letters of introduction about us from +others, who were themselves equally strangers to us a few days ago. They +introduced us to the freight agent of the Ohio and Mississippi Railway, +who travelled with us, as did also a clever handsome widow. She seemed +to be well connected, being related to General Cass and other people of +note. She reminds me a little of Mrs. B. in style and manner, and it is +pleasant to have some one to talk to, for we do not find people in +general communicative in travelling, though papa says the fault may be +ours.</p> + +<p>There was nothing particularly pretty on the road, as the trees are, I +grieve to say, losing their leaves in this neighbourhood; but on +approaching this great city, "the Queen of the West," we came again on +the Ohio. The water is now very low, but the bed of the river shows how +great its width is when full; and even now there is a perfect navy of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_196" id="Page_196">[Pg 196]</a></span> +splendid steamers floating on its waters, many of which we saw as our +train drove through the suburban streets of the city. Unhappily the rain +poured down upon us as we got into the omnibus, but we were soon +consoled by finding ourselves in this most magnificent hotel, the finest +I have yet seen. The drawing room, is I should think, unsurpassed in +beauty by any hotel anywhere, and I shall endeavour to make a drawing of +it before I leave. The hotel at Columbus was tolerably large, as you may +suppose, when I tell you that our dining room there was about ninety +feet by thirty. This one, however, has two dining rooms of at least +equal dimensions, which together can dine 1000 persons, and it makes up +600 beds. We sat in the drawing room yesterday evening, for we could not +reconcile ourselves to leave it, even to write this journal. There were +various ladies and gentlemen laughing and talking together, but no +evening dresses, and nothing of any importance to remark about them. One +young lady only was rather grandly dressed in a drab silk; she +afterwards sat down to the piano, and began the usual American jingle, +for I cannot call it music; and I have since been told she was the +daughter of the master of the house. "Egalité" is certainly the order of +the day here, and this young lady was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197">[Pg 197]</a></span> treated quite on an equality with +the other ladies in the room. The food is excellent, and we are very +thankful to have so luxurious a resting place if we are at all detained +here. We have several friends in the hotel, who are here to meet papa on +business.</p> + +<p>This morning we have had a visit from Mr. Mitchell, the astronomer, and +author of the work on Astronomy, which I remember reading with pleasure +just before I left England. His daughter is to call on me and drive us +out, and we are to pay a visit to his observatory. We went this +afternoon to leave some letters, which Mr. Dennison had given us for Mr. +Rufus King and Mr. Lars Anderson. We found Mrs. King at home; her +husband is much devoted to educational subjects and to the fine arts. +There were some very good pictures and engravings in the drawing room, +and amongst the latter two of Sir Robert Strange's performances. We +found both Mr. and Mrs. Anderson at home; they live in a splendid house, +but as it was getting dark we could not see the details. We sent in our +cards with our letter, and the room being full of people, Mr. Anderson +introduced papa to each one separately, and me as Mrs. S——. As these +guests went out others came in, and fresh introductions took place,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198">[Pg 198]</a></span> but +still always Mr. T—— and Mrs. S——, and he so addressed me during the +visit. As we were going away papa said that he was making some strange +mistake about my name, but he insisted upon it that we had so announced +it; and on looking at our cards I found the card of a very vulgar lady +at New York, which I had given by mistake as my own.</p> + +<p>As we were leaving the room, a very amiable and pleasing person asked me +if I would not call upon Mr. Longworth, the most celebrated character in +this country, who she said was her father and the father of Mrs. +Anderson. I said that we had letters to him from Mr. Jared Sparks, and +that we had meant to call on him the next day, but she said we had +better return with her then. We accordingly accompanied her through Mr. +Anderson's garden, and through an adjoining one which led to her +father's house, likewise a very large one, though not presenting such an +architectural appearance as Mr. Anderson's. The old gentleman soon made +his appearance, and afterwards Mrs. Longworth. They were a most +venerable couple, who had a twelve-month ago celebrated their golden +marriage, or fiftieth anniversary of their wedding day. We were invited +to stay and drink tea, which we did, and met a large assemblage of +children and grand<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199">[Pg 199]</a></span>-children; a great-grand-child who had been present +at the golden wedding, was in its nursery.</p> + +<p>Mr. Longworth, among other things remarkable about him, is the +proprietor of the vineyards from which the sparkling champagne is +produced, known, from the name of the grape, as the sparkling Catawba; +but he seems no less remarkable from the immense extent of his +strawberry beds, which cover, I think he said, 60 acres of ground. He +told us the number of bushels of fruit they daily produce in the season; +but the number is legion, and I dare not set it down from memory. He +showed papa a book he had written about his grapes and strawberries, and +is very incredulous as to any in the world being better than his. This +led to a discussion upon the relative size of trees and plants on the +two sides of the Atlantic; and in speaking of the Indian corn, he tells +us he has seen it standing, in Ohio, eighteen feet high, and he says it +has been known, in Kentucky, to reach as high as twenty-five feet, and +the ear eighteen inches long.</p> + +<p>The old gentleman is a diminutive-looking person, with a coat so shabby +that one would be tempted to offer him a sixpence if we met him in the +streets; indeed a story is told of a stranger, who,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">[Pg 200]</a></span> going into his +garden, and being shown round it by Mr. Longworth, gave him a dollar, +which the latter good-humouredly put into his pocket, and it was not +till he was asked to go into the house that the stranger discovered him +to be the owner.<a name="FNanchor_10_10" id="FNanchor_10_10"></a><a href="#Footnote_10_10" class="fnanchor">[10]</a> He is, however, delightfully vivacious, and full of +agricultural hobbies. His wife is a very pleasing, primitive-looking +person. We tasted at their house some of the ham for which this city, +called by the wits Porkopolis, is so remarkable. The maple sugar is used +in curing it, and improves the flavour very much.</p> + +<p><i>October 28th.</i>—I must bring this letter to a rapid close, for it must +be posted a day earlier than we expected. We intend to start in two days +for St. Louis, and there I will finish my account of Cincinnati. To-day +we have seen a great many schools, which have given us considerable +insight into the state of education in America. My next<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201">[Pg 201]</a></span> letter will +probably bring us to our most western point, though we have not yet +quite settled whether we shall go to the Falls of St. Anthony, or to +Chicago. Papa says I must close, and I must obey.</p> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_8_8" id="Footnote_8_8"></a><a href="#FNanchor_8_8"><span class="label">[8]</span></a> Though this description of the Senate was meant as a +good-humoured satire on the absence of etiquette in their assemblies, it +is probably no very exaggerated account of what is sometimes seen there; +but it would be most unfair to draw any conclusion from this as to the +behaviour in general society of well-educated gentlemen in America, +there being as much real courtesy among these as is found in any other +country, though certainly not always accompanied by the refinements of +polished society in Europe.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_9_9" id="Footnote_9_9"></a><a href="#FNanchor_9_9"><span class="label">[9]</span></a> It is not meant here to obtrude special views of politics, +or to maintain that democratic principles have naturally this tendency; +but it may help to explain why so little is heard or known in England of +the better class of Americans. Their unobtrusive mode of life entirely +accounts for this, and it is to be regretted that it is the noisy +demagogue who forms the type of the American as known to the generality +of the European public.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_10_10" id="Footnote_10_10"></a><a href="#FNanchor_10_10"><span class="label">[10]</span></a> I should not have taken the liberty of printing this +account of Mr. Longworth were he not, in a manner, a public character, +well known throughout the length and breadth of the land, and his +eccentricities are as familiar to every one at Cincinnati as his +goodness of heart. In speaking, too, of his family, it is most +gratifying to be able to record the patriarchal way in which we found +him and Mrs. Longworth, surrounded by their descendants to the third +generation. +</p><p> +If any apology is required, the same excuse—of his being a well-known +public character—may be made for saying so much of Governor Chase and +of his family.</p></div> +</div> + +<hr /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_202" id="Page_202">[Pg 202]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="LETTER_X" id="LETTER_X"></a>LETTER X.</h2> + +<blockquote><p>CINCINNATI.—MR. LONGWORTH.—GERMAN POPULATION—-"OVER THE +RHINE."—ENVIRONS OF CINCINNATI.—GARDENS.—FRUITS.—COMMON +SCHOOLS.—JOURNEY TO ST. LOUIS.</p></blockquote> + +<p class='right'>Vincennes, Indiana, Nov. 1st, 1858.</p> + +<p>My last letter brought us up to our arrival at Cincinnati, and our +passing the evening at Mr. Longworth's on the following day. Next day, +Wednesday the 27th, Mrs. Anderson, Mr. Longworth's daughter, called and +asked us to spend that evening also at her mother's house. She took me +out in her carriage in the morning to see some of the best shops, which +were equal to some of our best London ones in extent and in the value of +the goods; and in the course of the day we called at Monsieur Raschig's; +he not being at home, we made an appointment to call there late in the +evening.</p> + +<p>The party at the Longworths was confined to the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203">[Pg 203]</a></span> members of their large +family, all of whom are very agreeable. There were two married +daughters, Mrs. Flagg and Mrs. Anderson, and the grandson and his wife, +Mr. and Mrs. Stettinius; and we also saw the little +great-grand-daughter, who is a pretty child of eighteen months. The +dining-room not being long enough to accommodate us all at tea, the +table was placed diagonally across the room, and it was surprising to +see Mrs. Longworth pouring out tea and coffee for the whole party as +vigorously as if she were eighteen years old, her age being seventy-two. +She is remarkably pretty, with a fair complexion, and a very attractive +and gentle manner and face.</p> + +<p>We had quails and Cincinnati hams, also oysters served in three +different ways—stewed, fried in butter, and in their natural state, but +taken out of their shells and served <i>en masse</i> in a large dish. Our +friends were astonished that we did not like these famous oysters of +theirs in any form, which we did not, they being very huge in size and +strong in flavour. We said, too, we did not like making two bites of an +oyster; they pitied our want of taste, and lamented over our miserably +small ones in England. After tea we saw some sea-weed and autumnal +leaves beautifully dried and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204">[Pg 204]</a></span> preserved by Mrs. Flagg, and we also +looked over an illustrated poem on the subject of Mr. and Mrs. +Longworth's golden wedding, the poem being the composition of Mr. Flagg. +Towards ten o'clock a table was laid out in the drawing-room with their +Catawba champagne, which was handed round in tumblers, followed by piles +of Vanilla ice a foot and a half high. There were two of these towers of +Babel on the table, and each person was given a supply that would have +served for half a dozen in England; the cream however is so light in +this country that a great deal more can be taken of it than in England; +ices are extremely good and cheap all over America; even in very small +towns they are to be had as good as in the large ones. Water ices or +fruit ices are rare; they are almost always of Vanilla cream. In summer +a stewed peach is sometimes added.</p> + +<p>We left the Longworths that evening in a down pour of rain, so that papa +only got out for a minute at the door of Miss Raschig's uncle, and asked +him to breakfast with us next morning. He accordingly came; we found him +a most quick, lively, and excellent man, full of intelligence, and he +received us with the warmth and ardour of an old friend, having during +the twenty-five years he has been<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205">[Pg 205]</a></span> in America scarcely ever seen any one +who knew any of his relatives. He is a Lutheran minister, and has a +large congregation of Germans. He said a good deal had been going on +during the revivals at Cincinnati, and he thought the feeling shown was +of a satisfactory kind; there had been preaching in tents opposite his +church.</p> + +<p>The part of the town where he resides beyond the Miami Canal, which +divides it into two portions, is known by the name of "Over the Rhine," +and is inhabited almost entirely by Germans, of whom there are no less +than 60,000 in the town. Mr. Raschig's own family consists of nine sons +and one daughter, the youngest child being a fortnight old. We went to +see them before we left the place, and found the mother as excellent and +agreeable as himself, with her fine little baby in her arms. She said +that boys were much easier disposed of than girls in this country, and +their three eldest sons are already getting their livelihood, the eldest +of all being married. We saw the third son, a very intelligent youth, +who is a teacher in one of the schools in the town, and the daughter, a +pleasing girl of fourteen, sung to us. She promises to have a good +voice, though it will never equal her cousin's.</p> + +<p>On the evening of the 28th we went by invitation<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206">[Pg 206]</a></span> to Mr. and Mrs. +King's. He is a lawyer, and they are connected by marriage with the +Neils of Columbus and with the Longworths. The Andersons were there, and +we again had a liberal supply of ices. The following evening, the 29th, +we went to the Andersons, where there was a large party consisting of +the Directors of the Ohio and Mississippi Railway, with whom, by the +bye, I had dined that day at the hotel, there being ten gentlemen and +myself, the only lady, at table. The party at the Andersons was also an +assemblage of some of the beau monde of Cincinnati. The ladies were all +dressed in high silk dresses remarkably well made, and looking as if +they all had come straight from Paris. I never saw a large party of +prettier or better chosen toilettes. The dresses were generally of rich +brocaded silk, but there was nothing to criticise, and all were in +perfect taste. We assembled in a long drawing-room carpeted, and +sufficiently supplied with chairs, but there being neither tables nor +curtains, the room had rather a bare appearance, though it was well +lighted and looked brilliant. Towards ten o'clock we were handed into +the dining-room, where there was a standing supper of oysters,—the +"institution" of oysters as they justly call it,—hot quails, ham, ices, +and most<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_207" id="Page_207">[Pg 207]</a></span> copious supplies of their beloved Catawba champagne, which we +do not love, for it tastes, to our uninitiated palates, little better +than cider. It was served in a large red punch-bowl of Bohemian glass in +the form of Catawba cobbler, which I thought improved it; but between +the wine and the quails, which, from over hospitable kindness, were +forced on poor papa, he awoke the next morning with a bad headache, and +did not get rid of it all day.</p> + +<p>The weather during our stay at Cincinnati was so wet that, with the +exception of a drive which Mr. Anderson took us to some little distance +on the heights above, and a long visit which we paid to the school under +Mr. King's auspices, we had little out-door work to occupy us. I once, +however, and papa twice, crossed the Ohio in a steamboat, and took a +walk in the opposite slave state of Kentucky. The view thence of the +town and its fleet of steamboats is very striking. The opposite hills, +with the observatory perched on the highest summit, were very fine.</p> + +<p>Mr. Anderson one day took us a long drive to the top of these hills; the +whole country, especially near a village called Clifton, about six miles +from the town, is studded with villas. We drove through<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208">[Pg 208]</a></span> the grounds of +two which overlooked splendid views of the neighbouring country; each of +them being situated at the end of a sort of natural terrace projecting +into the valley, and thus commanding a panoramic view all round.</p> + +<p>The grounds attached to these villas are of considerable extent, but +nothing has surprised us more than the poverty of the gardens in +America. It may, however, be accounted for by the difficulty and expense +of obtaining labour in this country, and by the consequent facility with +which men who show any talent, and are really industrious, can advance +themselves. A scientific gardener, therefore, if any such there be, +would not long remain in that capacity. One of the houses had a really +fine-looking conservatory attached to it, but, like others we have seen +in the course of our travels, it was almost entirely given up to rockery +and ferns. This is a degree better than when the owners indulge in +statuary. We were made by the driver on another occasion to stop at a +garden ornamented in this way, but certainly Hiram Power's talents had +not been called into request, and the statues were of the most +common-place order.</p> + +<p>It is not only in their gardens, however, but in the general ornamental +cultivation of their grounds,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_209" id="Page_209">[Pg 209]</a></span> that the Americans are deficient, for +even at Newport, where we greatly admired, as I think I mentioned, the +greenness of the grass, it was coarse in quality, and bore no sort of +resemblance to a well-trimmed English lawn. Nor have we ever seen any +fruit, with the exception of their apples, to compare to ours in +England. These are certainly very fine. I hardly know the weight of an +English apple, but at Columbus we got some which were brought from the +borders of Lake Erie which are called the twenty-ounce apple. The one we +ate weighed about sixteen ounces, and measured thirteen inches round. +They are said to weigh sometimes as much as twenty-seven ounces. It is +what they call a "fall," meaning an autumnal, apple.<a name="FNanchor_11_11" id="FNanchor_11_11"></a><a href="#Footnote_11_11" class="fnanchor">[11]</a></p> + +<p>Next to their apples their pears deserve notice; but, though better than +ours, they are not superior to those produced in France. The quantity of +fruit, however, is certainly great, for the peaches are standard and +grown in orchards; but they are quite uncultivated, and the greater part +that we met with were hardly fit to eat. They are, notwithstand<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210">[Pg 210]</a></span>ing, +very proud of their fruit, especially of these said peaches and of their +grapes, which, to our minds, were just as objectionable productions. +There is one kind called the Isabella, which we thought most +disagreeable to eat, for the moment the skin is broken by the teeth and +the grape squeezed the whole inner part pops out in a solid mass into +the mouth. We are past the season of wild flowers; but these must make +the country very beautiful in the early spring, to judge from the +profusion of rhododendron and other shrubs, which were most luxuriant, +especially where we crossed the Alleghanies and along the banks of the +Connecticut. To return, however, to our drive.</p> + +<p>After visiting these villas we passed a great number of charitable +institutions for the relief of the poor, who are remarkably well looked +after in this country. One of these institutions was the Reformatory, a +large building, where young boys are sent at whatever age they may prove +delinquents, and are kept and well educated till they are twenty-one. +But the grand mode in which the state provides against crime of all +kinds is the system of education for all classes.</p> + +<p>I have said we went under Mr. King's guidance to see the common schools +of Cincinnati. These are<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_211" id="Page_211">[Pg 211]</a></span> divided into three classes, called the +district schools, the intermediate schools, and the high schools; we +went through each grade, and were much pleased with the proficiency of +the pupils. The examinations they went through in mental arithmetic were +very remarkable, and the questions put to the boys of the intermediate +class, who were generally from eleven to thirteen years old, were +answered in a very creditable manner.</p> + +<p>In the high school, the teaching is carried on till the pupils reach the +age of sixteen or seventeen, and even eighteen, after which they either +leave school altogether or go to college. They are generally the +children of artisans or mechanics, but boys of all ranks are admitted, +and are moved on from one grade to another. The schools are entirely +free, and girls are admitted as well as boys, and in about equal +numbers. The girls and boys are taught, for the most part, in separate +rooms, but repeat their lessons and are examined together, so that there +is a constant passing in and out from one class-room to another, but +still great order is preserved. This assembling together, however, of +large numbers of boys and girls, for so considerable a portion of the +day, did not strike us as so desirable as it is there said to be. The +advocates of the system say it<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_212" id="Page_212">[Pg 212]</a></span> refines the rough manners of the boys; +but it is more than questionable if the characters of the girls are +improved by it, and if the practice, in its general results, can be +beneficial.</p> + +<p>The subjects taught to both boys and girls are invariably the same; and +it was curious to hear girls translating Cicero into excellent English, +and parsing most complicated sentences, just like the boys, and very +often in better style, for they often answered when the boys could not. +They seemed chiefly girls from sixteen to eighteen. They answered, also, +most difficult questions in logic, and they learn a good deal of +astronomy, chemistry, &c., and have beautiful laboratories and +instruments. Music is also taught in a very scientific way, so as to +afford a knowledge of the transpositions of the keys, but in spite of +this, their music and singing are very American. German and French are +also taught in the schools when required.</p> + +<p>The teachers, both men and women, have very good salaries; the youngest +women beginning with 60<i>l.</i> and rising to 120<i>l.</i> a year, while the +men's salaries rise up to 260<i>l.</i> a year, and that in the intermediate +or second class schools. This style of education may appear too advanced +for girls in their rank of life, but in this country, where they<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_213" id="Page_213">[Pg 213]</a></span> get +dispersed, and may attain a good position in a distant district, the +tone thus given by education to the people, is of great importance. The +educating of the females in this way must give them great powers, and +open to them a field of great usefulness in becoming teachers themselves +hereafter. The education given is altogether secular, and they profess +to try and govern "by appeals to the nobler principles of their nature," +as we gather from a report which was put into our hands at leaving.</p> + +<p>This is but a weak basis for a sound education, and I cannot but think +its insufficiency is even here practically, and perhaps unconsciously, +acknowledged; for, though no direct religious instruction is professedly +given, a religious tone is nevertheless attempted to be conveyed in the +lessons. At the opening of the school, a portion of the Bible is read +daily in each class; and the pupils are allowed to read such versions of +the Scriptures as their parents may prefer, but no marginal readings are +allowed, nor may any comments be made by the teachers.<a name="FNanchor_12_12" id="FNanchor_12_12"></a><a href="#Footnote_12_12" class="fnanchor">[12]</a></p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_214" id="Page_214">[Pg 214]</a></span>We left Cincinnati this morning in the car appropriated to the use of +the Directors of the Ohio and Mississippi Railway, on which line we are +travelling. It is neatly fitted up with little "state" rooms, with sofas +all round. There were four of these, besides a general saloon in the +middle; but the whole was greatly inferior to the elegance of Mr. +Tyson's car on the Baltimore and Ohio Railway. Our party consisted of +about thirty persons, of whom four were judges, and about a third of the +number were ladies, accompanying their liege lords, and chiefly asked in +honour of me, to prevent my being "an unprotected female" among such a +host of gentlemen. An ordinary car was attached to that of the +Directors, for the use of any smokers of the party. We left Cincinnati +at half-past eight, and reached this place, Vincennes, where we are to +sleep, at about six o'clock. The road was very pretty, though the leaves +were nearly all off the trees; the forms<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215">[Pg 215]</a></span> of the trees were, however, +lovely, and it was quite a new description of country to us, the +clearings being recent and still very rough in appearance, and the +log-houses, in most places, of a most primitive kind. Vincennes, where +we are to sleep, is an old town of French origin, prettily situated on +the river Wabash, which we can see from our windows.</p> + +<p><i>St. Louis, November 4th.</i>—We came on here on the 2nd instant, and soon +after leaving Vincennes found ourselves in a prairie, but it was not +till after sixty miles that we got to the Grand Prairie, which we +traversed for about sixty more. The vastness, however, of this prairie, +consists in its length from north to south, in which it stretches +through nearly the whole length of the State. These prairies are +enormous plains of country, covered, at this time, by a long brown +grass, in which are the seed-vessels and remains of innumerable flowers, +which are said to be most lovely in their form and colour in the spring. +It was disappointing only to see the dark remains of what must have been +such a rich parterre of flowers. One of our party, Colonel Reilly, of +Texas, who had seen our Crystal Palace gardens at Sydenham, in full +flower, said that they reminded him of the prairies in the spring. The +ground is so level, that the woods on the hori<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_216" id="Page_216">[Pg 216]</a></span>zon had the effect that +the first sight of the dark line of land has at sea. In many places near +the road on each side, small farms were established, and good-sized +fields of Indian corn were growing; and wherever there was a railway +station, a town, or even a "city" with one or two churches, and an +hotel, besides grocery stores and wooden buildings of various kinds, +were in progress in this immense wilderness.</p> + +<p>The rain poured down incessantly, giving the country a melancholy and +forlorn appearance. Towards the latter part of our journey, we descended +into and traversed the great valley of the Mississippi. We passed +several coal-mines, and here, where the vein of coal is eight feet +thick, the land, including the coal, may be bought for one pound an +acre. The country soon assumed the appearance of a great swamp, and is +most unhealthy, being full of fever and ague.</p> + +<p>At length our train stopped, and we were ushered into omnibuses of +enormous length, drawn by four horses, and two of these caterpillar-like +looking vehicles were driven on to the steam-ferry, and in this +unromantic way we steamed across the great Father of Waters, and a most +unpoetic and unromantic river it appeared to be. There is nothing<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_217" id="Page_217">[Pg 217]</a></span> in +its width here to strike the eye or the imagination, though its depth is +very great, and it has risen ten feet within the last week. But it +appeared to us ugly and inconsiderable after the wide, rapid, clear, and +magnificent St. Lawrence. We were driven through a sea of mud and mire +to this large and comfortable hotel, and were shortly afterwards seated +at table with the rest of our party.</p> + +<p>I forgot to mention that, at Vincennes, seven sportsmen had been out all +day, before we arrived, to procure game for us, and were much +disappointed at not being able to get us any prairie hens, which are a +humble imitation of grouse, though Americans are pleased to consider +them better than that best of birds; but "comparisons are odious," and +the prairie-hens are very praiseworthy and good in their way. We had, +however, abundance of venison and quails, and the same fare met us here, +with large libations of champagne. The owner of our hotel at Cincinnati +travelled with us, and looked as much like a gentleman as the rest of +the party; and we have been joined here in our private drawing-room by +the landlord and landlady of this hotel. Not knowing at first who they +were, papa turned round to the former, and asked him if he knew St. +Louis, and had been long here, to which our friend replied,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_218" id="Page_218">[Pg 218]</a></span> "Yes, sir; +I have lived here eighteen years, and am the master of this hotel." +Yesterday our dinner was even better than on the day of our arrival, +closing with four or five omelettes soufflées, worthy of Paris, and the +same number of pyramids of Vanilla ice. So much for the progress of +civilisation across the Mississippi.</p> + +<p>We paddled about in the muddy streets yesterday, and looked in at the +shop-windows. We found even here plenty of hoop petticoats, and of +tempting-looking bookseller's shops. Our hotel is close to the +Court-house, a handsome building of limestone, with a portico and a +cupola in process of building, being a humble imitation of the one at +Washington. Yesterday evening, one or two of the gentlemen amused us +after dinner with some nigger songs, ending, I suppose out of compliment +to us, with "God save the Queen." I studied the toilette of one of our +party this morning—the only young unmarried lady among us. I had often +seen the same sort of dress at the hotels, but never such a good +specimen as this. It is called here the French morning robe or wrapper, +and this one was made of crimson merino, with a wide shawl bordering +half-way up the depth of the skirt. The skirt is quite open in front, +displaying a white petticoat with an embroidered bor<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_219" id="Page_219">[Pg 219]</a></span>dering. The body of +the wrapper was formed in the old-fashioned way, with a neck-piece, with +trimmings of narrow shawl borderings; there was no collar at all, the +crimson merino coming against the neck without any break of even a frill +of white. The sleeves were very large, of the latest fashion, with white +under sleeves, and the waist was very short, confined with a red band of +merino. These dresses are very common in the morning, and are, I +believe, thought to be very elegant. They are frequently made like this, +of some violent coloured merino, and often of silk, with trimmings of +another coloured ribbon.</p> + +<p>Having digressed so far from my account of St. Louis, I will go back for +a few minutes to Cincinnati, to describe the grand fire-engines we saw +there, with horses all ready harnessed. One particular engine, in which +the water was forced up by steam, could have its steam up and be ready +for action in three minutes from its time of starting, and long, +therefore, in all probability before it reached the place where its +services were required. These engines all had stags' horns placed in a +prominent position in front, as a sign of swiftness, and on this +particular one there was printed under the horns, "Sure Thing, 287 +feet," meaning that it could throw<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_220" id="Page_220">[Pg 220]</a></span> the water that height. Another had +on it, "243 feet. Beat that!" the Americans being very laconic in all +their public communications. The regular plan on which most of the +American towns are built and the division into wards, give great +facilities for showing where a fire takes place; balls are shown from +the top of a high tower to direct the engines where to go, the number of +balls pointing out the ward where the fire exists.</p> + +<p>Another grand invention, which we found here as well as everywhere else, +is their sewing machine. These sewing machines wearied us very much when +we landed at New York, for they seemed to be the one idea of the whole +country; and I am afraid we formed some secret intentions to have +nothing to do with them. I had seen them in a shop window in the City, +in London, but knowing nothing of their merits, almost settled in my own +mind they had none. At last I found how blind I had been, and what +wonderful machines they are. There are numbers of them of various +degrees of excellence. They are so rapid in their work, that if a dress +without flounces is tacked together, it can be made easily by the +machine in a morning: a lady here showed me how the machine is used; she +told me it is so fascinating that she should like<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_221" id="Page_221">[Pg 221]</a></span> to sit at it all day. +She works for her family, consisting of a husband and nine sons, and +takes the greatest pleasure in making all their under clothing; and +working as she does, not very constantly, she can easily do as much as +six sempstresses, while the machine, constantly worked, could do as much +as twelve. The work is most true and beautiful and rapid, and the +machine must be an invaluable aid where there is a large family. It is +much used also by tailors and shoemakers, for it can be used with all +qualities of materials, whether fine or thick. The price of one is from +15<i>l.</i> to 25<i>l.</i> It requires a little practice to work at it, but most +American ladies who have large families possess one, and dressmakers use +them a great deal.</p> + +<p><i>November 4th.</i>—To return to this town of mud and mire, we have been +nearly up to our knees in both to-day, and went on board one of the +large steamers, but found it was not nearly so grandly fitted up as the +one in which we went from New York to Newport. There is an enormous +fleet of steamers here, but the Mississippi still looked most dingy, +muddy, and melancholy. We were given tickets this evening, to hear a +recitation by a poet named Saxe, of a poem of his own, on the Press, and +we soon found ourselves in an enormous hall<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_222" id="Page_222">[Pg 222]</a></span> about 100 feet by 80, +nearly filled by a very intelligent-looking audience. A man near us told +us that Mr. Saxe had a European reputation, which made us feel much +ashamed of our ignorance, in never having heard of him before, and, +unhappily, we came away no wiser than we went as regards the merits of +his poetry; for though our seats were near him, there was something +either in the form of the hall, or in the nature of his voice and +pronunciation, which made us unable to hear what he said. There were +bursts of laughter and applause at times from the audience, but we took +the first opportunity of leaving.</p> + +<p>As we walked home, we passed a brilliantly-lighted confectioner's shop, +where we each had an ice, but they were too sweet, and after eating and +criticising them, we came to another confectioner's, when papa insisted +upon going in, and ordered two more ices, which were very good. We were +presented here with filtered water, the usual drinking water in this +town being something of the colour of dingy lemonade, though its taste +is good.</p> + +<p>We purpose going to-morrow.... I turn to ask papa where—and he shakes +his head, and says he does not know. On my pressing for a more distinct +answer, he says, "Up the Missouri at all events."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_223" id="Page_223">[Pg 223]</a></span> This sounds vague, +but I believe before night we shall be on our way to Chicago, and shall +thus have taken leave of the "far west." And now I must take my leave of +you for the present, though I fear this is but a dull chapter of the +journal.</p> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_11_11" id="Footnote_11_11"></a><a href="#FNanchor_11_11"><span class="label">[11]</span></a> As an instance of the ingenious devices used to save +labour in this country, we may mention a machine for paring apples, +which we bought in the streets at Boston for twenty cents, or about +10<i>d.</i> English. By turning a handle it can perform, simultaneously, the +operations of peeling the apple, cutting out the core, and slicing it.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_12_12" id="Footnote_12_12"></a><a href="#FNanchor_12_12"><span class="label">[12]</span></a> For fear that we may have misinterpreted what is said +above, we think it advisable, as the matter is a most important one, and +one that may interest others, to extract from the report the passage on +which these observations were founded; for it is not a clear specimen of +American composition, and might, therefore, easily become a subject of +misrepresentation:— +</p><p> +"The Opening Exercises in every Department shall commence by the reading +of a portion of the Bible, by or under the direction of the teacher, and +appropriate singing by the pupils. +</p><p> +"The pupils of the Common Schools may read such version of the Sacred +Scriptures as their parents or guardians may prefer, provided that such +preference of any version except the one now in use be communicated by +the parents or guardians to the Principal Teachers, and that no notes or +marginal readings be read in the school, or comments made by the +Teachers on the text of any version that is or may be introduced."</p></div> +</div> + +<hr /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_224" id="Page_224">[Pg 224]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="LETTER_XI" id="LETTER_XI"></a>LETTER XI.</h2> + +<blockquote><p>ST. LOUIS.— JEFFERSON CITY.— RETURN TO ST. +LOUIS.— ALTON.— SPRINGFIELD.— FIRES ON THE +PRAIRIES.— CHICAGO.— GRANARIES.— PACKING HOUSES.— LAKE +MICHIGAN.— ARRIVAL AT INDIANAPOLIS.</p></blockquote> + +<p class='right'>Jefferson City, on the Missouri,<br /> +Nov. 6th, 1858. </p> + +<p>Here we are really in the Far West, more than 150 miles from the +junction of the Missouri with the Mississippi, though still 2950 from +the source of this great-grandfather of waters—for I can give it a no +less venerable name. We first caught sight of it, or struck the river, +as the phrase is here, about 98 miles below this city, and for a long +time we followed its banks so closely, that we could at any point have +thrown a stone from the car into the river. At Hermann, a little German +settlement on its banks, we stopped and had an excellent dinner, but it +was so late before we left St. Louis, that we passed the greater part of +what seemed very pretty scenery in the dark, so that I shall defer any +further<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_225" id="Page_225">[Pg 225]</a></span> description of it till we return over the ground on Monday.</p> + +<p>We were most unfortunate in our weather during our stay at St. Louis, +and I had no opportunity of seeing the beauties of the neighbourhood, +which we hear much extolled, but respecting which we are rather +sceptical. The only drive we took, was to a new park being made outside +the town, called Lafayette Park, which gave us anything but a pleasant +impression of the <i>entourage</i> of St. Louis; we must admit, however, that +a very short distance by railway brought us into a very pretty country, +and no doubt the dismal weather and bad roads made our drive very +different to what it might have been on a fine day. Still, with the +impression fresh in our memory of our drive in the neighbourhood of +Cincinnati in much the same sort of weather, we are compelled to think +that the country about the Queen of the West and the banks of the Ohio +greatly surpasses in beauty St. Louis and the muddy river which has so +great a reputation in the world.</p> + +<p><i>Springfield, Illinois, November 9th.</i>—Although our damp disagreeable +weather has not left us, we have contrived to see a good deal of +Jefferson City. We made a dash a short way up the Missouri in a +steamboat, and landed and took a walk on the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_226" id="Page_226">[Pg 226]</a></span> northern side of the +river, and as we exchanged a mud for a sandy soil, it was less +disagreeable than on the south side. The northern shore, which from the +opposite side seemed hilly and well wooded, is very pretty, but on +landing the hills had receded to a distance, and we found a considerable +plain between them and the river. Up to the water's edge, however, the +country is well wooded. On the spot where we landed we saw a large tree, +at least ten feet in diameter, burnt almost to its centre, and its fine +head destroyed by fire; and on asking some bystanders if any one had +intended to burn it down, they said, "Oh, no, some one has merely made a +fire there to warm himself;" a strong proof of the little value put here +on fine timber.</p> + +<p>The view of Jefferson City from the opposite bank, looking down the +river, is very striking. Being the capital of the state of Missouri, +there was the usual Capitol or state-house, and, unlike most others that +we have seen, the building with its large dome was completed. It is a +fine edifice of white stone, standing at a great height above the river, +on what is here called a bluff, namely, a rock rising perpendicularly +from the water's edge. The principal part of the town is built along the +heights, but the ground slopes in places, and the houses are then<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_227" id="Page_227">[Pg 227]</a></span> +carried down to the river side. The railway runs under the cliff, and +can be seen winding along up and down the river, for some distance each +way; it has not yet been carried much further, as this is the last large +town to which railways in the west reach; but, as its name, the Pacific +Railway, implies, it is intended ultimately to be carried "right away" +west till it joins the ocean. We went on Sunday to the Episcopal church. +There was the Communion service, and a very good sermon on the subject +of that ordinance.</p> + +<p>We yesterday returned to St. Louis, and after a brief halt came on here. +As our journey back to St. Louis was in the daytime, we had an +opportunity of seeing the very interesting country which we passed on +Saturday in the dark. The most remarkable feature of the road was +crossing the Osage within 200 or 300 yards of its confluence with the +Missouri. It is about 1,200 feet broad, and we saw in it one of those +beautiful steamboats which give so much character here to the rivers. +The Osage is navigable for these large boats for 200 miles above this +place. We passed various other rivers, among others the Gasconade, at a +spot memorable for a terrible catastrophe which happened on the day of +the opening of the railway,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_228" id="Page_228">[Pg 228]</a></span> when the first bridge which crossed it gave +way as the train was passing, and nine out of thirteen cars were +precipitated into the bed of the river; thirty people, chiefly leading +characters of St. Louis, were killed, and many hundreds desperately +hurt.</p> + +<p>We have little more to say of St. Louis, as the museum was the only +public building we visited. The great curiosity there is the largest +known specimen of the mastodon. It is almost entire from the tip of its +nose to the tip of its tail, and measures ninety-six feet in length. We +left St. Louis, and were glad to escape for a time at least out of a +slave state. The "institution" was brought more prominently before us +there than it has yet been, as St. Louis is the first town where we have +seen it proclaimed in gold letters on a large board in the street, +"Negroes bought and sold here." In the papers, also, yesterday, we saw +an advertisement of a "fine young man" to be sold, to pay a debt.</p> + +<p>We took our departure in the Alton steamboat, in order to see the first +twenty-four miles of the Upper Mississippi, and the junction of that +river and the Missouri, which takes place about six miles below Alton; +both rivers, however, are very tame and monotonous, and it was only as +we were reaching<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_229" id="Page_229">[Pg 229]</a></span> Alton, that the banks of the Mississippi assumed +anything like height. Alton itself stands very high, and as it was +getting dark when we arrived, the lights along the hills had a fine +effect. We are told it is a pretty town, but it was dark when we landed, +and we had to hurry into the train that brought us to this place. The +steamboat in which we went up the river was a very fine one, but not at +all fitted up in the sumptuous manner of our Newport boat. Papa paced +the cabin, and made it 276 feet long, beyond which there was an outside +smoking cabin, and then the forecastle.</p> + +<p>Springfield is in the midst of the Grand Prairie, and, as we are not to +leave it till the afternoon, we have been exploring the town, and, as +far as we could, the prairie which comes close up to it; but the moment +the plank pavement ceased, it was hopeless to get further, owing to the +dreadfully muddy state of the road. This mud must be a great drawback to +residing in a prairie town, as the streets are rendered impassable for +pedestrians, unless at the plank crossings. On our way back to the +hotel, we accosted a man standing at his door, whose strong Scotch +accent, in reply to a question, told us at once where he came from. He +asked us into his house, and gave us a good deal<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_230" id="Page_230">[Pg 230]</a></span> of information about +the state of the country. He was originally a blacksmith at Inverary, +and had after that pursued his calling in a very humble way in Fife and +in Edinburgh, and came out here penniless twenty-six years ago, when +there were only a few huts in the place; but he has turned his trade to +better account here, for he lives in a comfortable house, and has +<i>$</i>50,000, or 10,000<i>l.</i> invested in the country. He seemed very pleased +to see us, and talked of the Duke of Argyle's family, as well as of the +Durhams, Bethunes, Anstruthers, &c. Having lived when in Fife, at Largo, +he seemed quite familiar with the Durhams, with the General's little +wife, and with Sir Philip's adventures, from the time of the loss of the +Royal George downwards.</p> + +<p>This is the capital of Illinois, and the state-house here, too, is +finished, and is a fine building. The governor has a state residence, +which is really a large and handsome building, but is altogether +surpassed by the private residence of an ex-governor, who lives in a +sumptuous house, to judge from its external accompaniments of +conservatory, &c.; it is nearly opposite our Scotch friend's abode, but +the ex-governor dealt in "lumber" instead of iron, and from being a +chopper of wood, has raised himself to his present position.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_231" id="Page_231">[Pg 231]</a></span></p> + +<p><i>Chicago, Nov. 10th.</i>—We did not reach Chicago last night till 12 +o'clock, our train, for the first time since we have been in America, +having failed to reach its destination at the proper time; but the delay +of two hours on this occasion was fairly accounted for by the bad state +of the rails, owing to the late rains. Before it became dark we saw one +or two wonderful specimens of towns growing up in this wilderness of +prairie. The houses, always of wood and painted white, are neat, clean, +and well-built. There is, generally, a good-looking hotel, and +invariably a church, and often several of these, for although one would +probably contain all the inhabitants, yet they are usually of many +denominations, and then each one has its own church. About twenty or +thirty miles from Chicago, we saw a very extensive tract of prairie on +fire, which quite illuminated the sky, and, as the night was very dark, +showed distinctly the distant trees and houses, clearly defining their +outline against the horizon. On the other side of us, there was a +smaller fire, but so close as to allow us to see the flames travelling +along the surface of the ground. These fires are very common; we saw no +less than five that night in the course of our journey.</p> + +<p>We have been busily employed to-day in going<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_232" id="Page_232">[Pg 232]</a></span> over Chicago. The streets +are wide and fine, but partake too abundantly of prairie mud to make +walking agreeable: some of the shops are very large; a bookseller's +shop, to which papa and I made our way, professes to be the largest in +the world, and it is certainly one of the best supplied I ever saw with +all kinds of children's books. From the bookseller's we went to papa's +bankers, Messrs. Swift and Co.; Mr. Swift took us to the top of the +Court-house, a wonderful achievement for me, but well worth the trouble, +as the view of the town was very surprising. We went afterwards to call +on William's friend, Mr. Wilkins, the consul, where we met Lord +Radstock. Mr. Wilkins kindly took us to see Mr. Sturge's great granary; +there are several of these in the town, but this, and a neighbouring +one, capable of holding between them four or five million bushels of +corn, are the two largest. The grain is brought into the warehouse, +without leaving the railway, the rails running into the building. It is +then carried to the top of the warehouse "in bulk," by means of hollow +cylinders arranged on an endless chain. The warehouse is built by the +side of the river, so that the vessels which are to carry the corn to +England or elsewhere, come close under the walls,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_233" id="Page_233">[Pg 233]</a></span> and the grain is +discharged into the vessels by means of large wooden pipes or troughs, +through which it is shot at once into the hold. Mr. Wilkins has seen +80,000 bushels discharged in this manner, in one day.</p> + +<p>We afterwards drove about six miles into the country, through oceans of +mud, to see one of the great slaughter and packing-houses. I did not +venture out of the carriage, but the proprietor took Mr. Wilkins, Lord +Radstock, and papa through every part of the building. In a yard below +were a prodigious number of immense oxen, and the first process was to +see one of these brought into the inside of the building by means of a +windlass; which drew it along by a rope attached to its horns and +passing through a ring on the floor.</p> + +<p>The beast, by means of men belabouring it from behind, and this rope +dragging it in front, was brought in and its head drawn down towards the +ring, when a man with a sledge-hammer felled it instantaneously to the +ground; and without a struggle it was turned over on its back by the +side of eight or ten of its predecessors who had just shared the same +fate, and were already undergoing the various processes to which they +had afterwards to be subjected. The first of these was to rip up and +remove the intestines of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_234" id="Page_234">[Pg 234]</a></span> the poor beast, and it was then skinned and +cut lengthways into two parts, when the still reeking body was hung up +to cool. The immense room was hung with some hundreds of carcases of +these huge animals thus skinned and cleft in two. The process, from the +time the animal leaves the yard alive till the time it is split and hung +up in two pieces, occupied less than a quarter of an hour. At the end of +two days they are dismembered, salted, packed in casks, the best parts +to be shipped to England, and the inferior parts to be eaten by the free +and enlightened citizens of this great continent. The greater number of +these beasts come from Texas, and have splendid horns, sometimes three +feet long.</p> + +<p>The next thing they saw was the somewhat similar treatment of the poor +pigs; but these are animals, of which for size there is nothing similar +to be seen in England, excepting, perhaps, at the cattle show. At least, +one which papa saw hanging up weighed 400 lbs., and looked like a young +elephant. In the yard below there was a vast herd of these, 1500 having +arrived by railway the night before; the number killed and cut up daily +averages about 500. It takes a very few minutes only from the time the +pig leaves the pen to its being hung up, preparatory to its being cut up +and salted. They<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_235" id="Page_235">[Pg 235]</a></span> first get a knock on the head like the more noble +beasts already mentioned; they are then stuck, in order to be thoroughly +bled; after this they are plunged headlong into a long trough of boiling +water, in which they lie side by side in a quiescent state, very +different to the one they were in a few minutes before, when they were +quarrelling in a most unmannerly manner in the yard below. From this +trough the one first put in is, by a most ingenious machine, taken up +from underneath, and tossed over into an empty trough, where in less +than a minute he is entirely denuded of his bristles, and passed over to +be cleft and hung up. The trough holds about eight or ten thus lying +side by side, and the moment one is taken out at one end, another is put +in at the other, and they thus all float through the length of the +trough, and are taken out in order; but so rapid is the process, that no +one pig is long in; in fact, the whole business occupies only a very few +minutes per pig. Every part is turned to account, the mass of bristles +being converted into tooth brushes, &c. In the huge larder, in the story +next above the oxen, there were about 1500 unhappy pigs hung up to cool, +before being cut up, salted, packed, and sent off. There are several +establishments of this nature in Chicago, but only<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_236" id="Page_236">[Pg 236]</a></span> one of equal extent +to the one papa saw. About 400,000 pigs are shipped every year from +Chicago. I do not know the total number of cattle, but this house alone +slaughters and sends away 10,000. There were places on an enormous scale +for preparing tallow and lard, and there were many other details equally +surprising, which I have not now time to describe; but papa says that +the smells were most offensive, and that it was altogether a very +horrible sight, and it was one I was well pleased to escape.</p> + +<p>Among the other wonders of Chicago, I must do honour to its hotel, which +I should say was as good as any we have yet seen in America. These +American hotels are certainly marvellous "institutions," though we were +getting beyond the limits of the good ones when we reached Jefferson +City. That, however, at St. Louis is a very fair sample of a good one.</p> + +<p><i>Indianapolis, Nov. 11th.</i>—We arrived here late this afternoon, and +have not been able as yet to see anything of the town, I shall therefore +defer a description of it to my next. The road from Chicago was not +without its interest, though we are becoming very tired of the prairies. +At first starting we went for many miles along the borders of Lake +Michigan, which we again came upon at a very<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_237" id="Page_237">[Pg 237]</a></span> remarkable spot, Michigan +city, about sixty miles from Chicago. Along the first part of the lake, +in the neighbourhood of Chicago, the shore consists of fine sand, in +strips of considerable width, and flat like an ordinary sea beach; but +at Michigan city the deep sand reached to a considerable distance +inland, and then rose into high dunes, precisely like those on the +French coast. As we had to wait an hour there, papa and I scrambled up +one of these, and although below there was deep loose sand, yet above it +was hard and solid, and bound together with little shrubs like the +French dunes. The view of the lake from the top was very pretty, and +boundless towards the north, we being at the southern extremity. I +picked up a few stones on the beach as a memorial of this splendid lake. +We were very much tempted, when at Chicago, to see more of it, and to go +to Milwaukee and Madison, but we were strongly advised by Mr. Wilkins +not to go further north at this season. The wreaths of snow which during +the night have fallen in patches along the road, and greeted our eyes +this morning, confirmed us in the wisdom of this advice, and we are now +bending our steps once more towards the south. We are still here in the +midst of prairie, but more wooded than in our journey of Tuesday. We<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_238" id="Page_238">[Pg 238]</a></span> +crossed to-day, at Lafayette, the Wabash, which we had crossed +previously at Vincennes, and here, as there, it is a very noble river. +This must end my journal for the present.</p> + +<hr /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_239" id="Page_239">[Pg 239]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="LETTER_XII" id="LETTER_XII"></a>LETTER XII.</h2> + +<blockquote><p>INDIANAPOLIS.— LOUISVILLE.— LOUISVILLE AND PORTLAND +CANAL.— PORTLAND.— THE PACIFIC STEAMER.— JOURNEY TO +LEXINGTON.— ASHLAND.— SLAVE PENS AT LEXINGTON.— RETURN TO +CINCINNATI.— PENNSYLVANIA CENTRAL RAILWAY.— RETURN TO NEW YORK.</p></blockquote> + +<p class='right'>Lexington, Kentucky, Nov. 13th, 1858.</p> + +<p>My last letter was closed at Indianapolis, but despatched from +Louisville. On the morning after I wrote we had time, before starting +for Louisville, to take a walk through the principal streets of +Indianapolis. The Capitol or state-house is the only remarkable +building; and here, as in most other towns in America, we were struck by +the breadth of the streets. In the centre of Indianapolis there is a +large square, from which the four principal streets diverge, and from +the centre of this, down these streets, there are views of the distant +country which on all sides bounds the prospect. This has a fine effect, +but all these capital cities of states have an unfinished appearance: +great cities have been planned, but the plans have never been +adequately<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_240" id="Page_240">[Pg 240]</a></span> carried out. The fact is, they have all a political, and not +a commercial origin, and they want the stimulus of commercial enterprise +to render them flourishing towns, or to give them the finished +appearance of cities of much more recent date, such as Chicago and +others.</p> + +<p>We left Indianapolis at about half-past ten, and reached Jeffersonville, +on the north side of the Ohio at four. The country at first was entirely +prairie, but became a good deal wooded as we journeyed south. It is much +more peopled than the wide tracts which we have been lately traversing, +for neat towns with white wooden houses and white wooden churches here +succeeded each other at very short distances; we crossed several large +rivers, tributaries of the Wabash; one, the White river, was of +considerable size, and the banks were very prettily wooded. At +Jeffersonville we got into a grand omnibus with four splendid white +horses, and drove rapidly down a steepish hill, straight on board the +steamboat which was to carry us across the Ohio. The horses went as +quietly as on dry land, and had to make a circuit on the deck, as we +were immediately followed by another similar equipage, four in hand, for +which ours had to make room. This was followed by two large baggage +waggons and a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_241" id="Page_241">[Pg 241]</a></span> private vehicle; and all these carriages were on one side +of the engine-room. At the other end there was space for as many more, +had there been any need for it; and all this on a tiny little steamboat +compared with the Leviathans that were lying in the river.</p> + +<p>On reaching Louisville we were comfortably established in a large +handsome hotel. As there was still daylight, we took a walk through the +principal streets, and found ourselves, as usual, in a bookseller's +shop; for not only are these favourite lounges of papa's, but we +generally find the booksellers intelligent and civil people, from whom +we can learn what is best worth seeing in the town. The one at +Louisville lauded very much the pork packing establishments in this +town, and said those at Chicago, and even those of Cincinnati, are not +to be compared with them; but without better statistics we must leave +this question undecided, for papa saw quite enough at Chicago to deter +him from wishing to go through the same sight at Louisville; we, +however, availed ourselves of the address he gave us of the largest +slave-dealer, and went to-day to see a slave-pen.</p> + +<p>We have lately been reading a most harrowing work, called the +"Autobiography of a Female Slave," whose experience was entirely +confined to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_242" id="Page_242">[Pg 242]</a></span> Kentucky—indeed, to Louisville and the adjoining country +within a few miles of the Ohio. She describes Kentucky as offering the +worst specimen of a slave's life, and gives a horrid account of the +barbarity of the masters, and of the almost diabolical character of the +slave-dealers, and of those who hold subordinate situations under them. +We were hardly prepared, therefore, on reaching this pen to be received, +in the absence of the master, by a good-looking coloured housekeeper, +with a face as full of kindness and benevolence as one could wish to +see, but "the pen" had yesterday been cleared out, with the exception of +one woman with her six little children, the youngest only a year old, +and two young brothers, neither of whom the dealer had sold, as he had +been unable to find a purchaser who would take them without separating +them, and he was determined not to sell them till he could. In the case +both of the woman and of the two boys, their sale to the dealer had been +caused by the bankruptcy of the owner. The woman had a husband, but +having a different master, he retained his place, and his master +promised that when his wife got a new home he would send him to join +her.</p> + +<p>No doubt this separation of families is a crying evil, and perhaps the +greatest practical one, as respects<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_243" id="Page_243">[Pg 243]</a></span> hardship, to which the system is +necessarily subject; but certainly, from what we have seen and heard +to-day, it does not seem to be harshly done, and pains are taken to +avoid it: the woman said she had been always kindly treated, and there +was not the slightest difficulty made by the dark duenna to our +conversing with the slaves as freely as we liked, and she left us with +the whole group. The woman took us to see her baby, and we found it in a +large and well ventilated room, and she said they had always as much and +as good food as they could wish. She said she was forty-five years old, +and had ten children living, but the four eldest were grown up. The +eldest of those she had with her was a little girl of about thirteen; +she said, in answer to a question from papa, that the children had made +a great piece of work at parting with their father, but the woman +herself seemed quite cheerful and satisfied with her prospects.</p> + +<p>On our journey here there were a great many slaves in the car with us, +coming to pass their Sunday at Lexington. They seemed exceedingly merry, +and one, whom papa sat next, said he had accumulated $950, and that when +he got $1900, he would be able to purchase his freedom. He said his +master was a rich man, having $300,000, and that<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_244" id="Page_244">[Pg 244]</a></span> he was very well +treated; but that some masters did behave very badly to their slaves, +and often beat them whether they deserved it or not. From the specimen +we had of those in the cars, they seemed well-conditioned men, and all +paid the same fare that we did, and were treated with quite as much +attention. They seem to get some sort of extra wages from their masters +besides their food and raiment, out of which they can lay by if they are +provident, so as to be able to purchase their freedom in time; but they +do not seem always to care about this, as one man here has $4000, which +would much more than suffice to buy his freedom; but he prefers +remaining a slave. We shall probably see a good deal more of the +condition of the slaves within the next few days, so I shall say no more +upon the subject at present, excepting that all this does not alter the +view which we cannot help taking of the vileness of the institution, +though it certainly does not appear so very cruel in practice as it is +often represented to be by the anti-slavery party.</p> + +<p>There are only two great sights to be seen at Louisville. One, the +famous artesian well, 2086 feet deep, bored to reach a horrid sulphur +spring, which is, however, a very strong one as there are upwards of 200 +grains of sulphates of soda and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_245" id="Page_245">[Pg 245]</a></span> magnesia in each gallon of water, and +upwards of 700 grains of chlorides of sulphur and magnesia. There is a +fountain over the well, in which the water rises 200 feet, but whether +by external pressure or by the natural force of the water, the deponent +sayeth not. It comes out in all sorts of forms, sometimes imitating +flowers, and sometimes a shower of snow, on which the negro who showed +it to us expatiated with great delight. When I said there were only two +sights to see, I alluded to this well, and to the magnificent steam +vessel, the "Pacific," which was lying at Portland, about three miles +down the Ohio, below the Falls; but I forgot altogether the Falls +themselves, and the splendid canal described in papa's book, through +which vessels are obliged to pass to get round them, which I ought not +to pass without some notice. The river here is upwards of a mile wide, +but the falls are most insignificant; and though the Guide Book +describes them as "picturesque in appearance," and that the islands give +the Ohio here "the appearance of a great many broken rivers of foam, +making their way over the falls, while the fine islands add greatly to +the beauty of the scene;" neither papa with his spectacles, nor I with +my keen optics, could see more than a ripple on the surface of the +water.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_246" id="Page_246">[Pg 246]</a></span> These falls, however, are sufficient to prevent vessels of any +great burden ascending or descending beyond this point of the river, and +hence the necessity of the canal: but this splendid work, about which +papa's interest was very great, in consequence of what he had written +about it, proved as great a disappointment as the falls themselves. It +must, however, have been a work of great difficulty, as it is cut +through a solid bed of rock.<a name="FNanchor_13_13" id="FNanchor_13_13"></a><a href="#Footnote_13_13" class="fnanchor">[13]</a> The locks are suffi<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_247" id="Page_247">[Pg 247]</a></span>ciently capacious +to allow of the passage of steamers 180 feet long by 40 feet in breadth, +one of which we saw in the lock, and there were three others waiting to +pass through.</p> + +<p>These, to our eyes, seemed large and beautiful vessels; but they were +altogether eclipsed and their beauty forgotten, when we found ourselves +on board the "Pacific." This vessel was to sail in the evening, and is +one of the most splendid steamers on the river; certainly nothing could +exceed her comfort, infinitely beyond that of the Newport boat, as the +saloon was one long room, unbroken by steam-engine or anything else, to +obstruct the view from one end to the other. Brilliant fires were +burning in two large open stoves, at equal distances from either end, +and little tables were set all down the middle of the room, at which +parties of six each could sit and dine comfortably. The vessel was +upwards of 300 feet long, the cabin alone being about that length. On +each side of the cabin were large, comfortable sleeping berths, and on +the deck below, adjoining the servants' room, was a sweet little +nursery, containing, besides the beds and usual<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_248" id="Page_248">[Pg 248]</a></span> washing apparatus, four +or five pretty little rocking-chairs, for the children. We were shown +over the kitchen, and everything looked so complete and comfortable that +we longed to go down in her to New Orleans, whither she is bound, and +which she will reach in six days. Everything was exquisitely clean, the +roof and sides of the cabin being of that beautiful white varnish paint +which I have before described, which always looks so pure and lovely. +There was not much ornament, but all was in good taste.</p> + +<p>On leaving the "Pacific," we drove to the inn at Portland. The +Kentuckians are a fine tall race of men; but, tall as they are in +general, the landlord, Mr. Jim Porter, surpassed them all in height, +standing 7 feet 9 inches without his shoes. This is the same individual +of whom Dickens gave an amusing account in his American notes fifteen +years ago.</p> + +<p>We left Louisville at two o'clock, and came on to Lexington this +afternoon. The country is much more like England than anything we have +yet seen, being chiefly pasture land. The grass is that known here, and +very celebrated as the "blue grass" of Kentucky; though why or wherefore +it is so called we cannot discover. It is of prodigiously strong growth, +sometimes attaining two feet in height; but it is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_249" id="Page_249">[Pg 249]</a></span> generally kept low, +either by cropping or cutting, and is cut sometimes five times a year. +The stock raised upon it is said to be very fine, and the animals are +very large and fine looking; but either from the meat not being kept +long enough, or from some cause which we cannot assign, the beef, when +brought to table, is very inferior to the good roast beef of Old +England.</p> + +<p>The road from Louisville to this place is pretty throughout, and seemed +quite lovely as we approached Frankfort, though it was getting too dark +as we passed that town to appreciate its beauties thoroughly. For some +miles before reaching it, the road passes through a hilly country, with +beautiful rounded knolls at a very short distance. The town is situated +on the Kentucky river, the most beautiful, perhaps, in America. In +crossing the long bridge, we had a fine view down its steep banks, with +the lights of the town close on its margin. The state Capitol which we +passed, is close to the railway, and is a marble building, with a +handsome portico. We were very sorry not to have stopped to pass +to-morrow, Sunday, at this place, but we were anxious to reach +Lexington, in order to get our letters. We have no great prospects here, +as the hotel, excepting the one<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_250" id="Page_250">[Pg 250]</a></span> at Jefferson City, is the worst we have +found in America. We had hardly set foot in it, when General Leslie +Combe called upon us, having been on the look-out for our arrival. He +claimed cousin-ship, having married a Miss T——, but we must leave it +to Uncle Harry to determine to which branch of the T—— family she can +claim kindred.</p> + +<p><i>November 15th.</i>—The weather has been unpropitious, and instead of +starting to explore the Upper Kentucky, which we had meant to do, we are +returning this afternoon to Cincinnati. We have, however, been able to +see all the sights here that are worth seeing, besides having been +edified yesterday by a nigger sermon, remarkable, even among nigger +sermons, for the wonderful stentorian powers of the preacher. The great +object of interest here is Ashland, so called from the ash timber with +which the place abounds. This was the residence of Henry Clay, the great +American statesman. General Combe gave us a letter of introduction to +Mr. James B. Clay, his eldest son, who is the present proprietor of the +"location." The house is very prettily "fixed up," to use another +American phrase; but we were disappointed with the 200 acres of park, +which Lord Morpeth, who passed a week at Ashland, is said to extol as +being like an English one. We saw<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_251" id="Page_251">[Pg 251]</a></span> nothing, either of the "locust +cypress, cedar, and other rare trees, with the rose, the jasmine, and +the ivy, clambering about them," which the handbook beautifully +describes. The fact is, the Americans, as I have before observed, have +not the slightest idea of a garden; and on papa's venturing to insinuate +this to Mr. Clay, he admitted it, and ascribed it to its undoubted +cause, the expense of labour in this country.</p> + +<p>From Ashland we went to what is really a Kentucky sight, the Fair +Ground. On an eminence at about a mile from the town, surrounded by +beautiful green pastures, there stands a large amphitheatre, capable of +holding conveniently 12,000 spectators. In the centre is a large grass +area, where the annual cattle show is held, and when filled it must be a +remarkable sight. From this we went to the Cemetery, which, like all +others in this country, is neatly laid out, and kept in very good order. +The grave-stones and monuments are invariably of beautiful white marble, +with the single exception of a very lofty monument which is being raised +to the memory of Mr. Clay. It is not yet finished, but to judge either +from what has been accomplished, or from a drawing papa saw of it on a +large scale, in a shop window, it is not likely to prove<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_252" id="Page_252">[Pg 252]</a></span> pretty, and +the yellowish stone of which it is being built, contrasts badly with the +white marble about it.</p> + +<p>We went next to see a very large pen, in which there were about forty +negroes for sale; they had within the last few days, sold about 100, who +had travelled by railway chained together. Those we saw, were divided +into groups, and we went through a variety of rooms in which they were +domiciled, and were allowed to converse freely with them all. This is +one of the largest slave markets in the United States, and is the great +place from which the South is supplied. There are, in this place, five +of these pens where slaves are kept on sale, and, judging from this one, +they are very clean and comfortable. But these pens give one a much more +revolting idea of the institution than seeing the slaves in regular +service. There was one family of a man and his wife and four little +children, the price of "the lot" being <i>$</i>3500, or 700<i>l.</i> sterling, but +neither the man nor the woman seemed to care much whether they were sold +together or not. There was one poor girl of eighteen, with a little +child of nine weeks old, who was sold, and she was to set off to-night +with her baby, for a place in the State. The slave-dealer himself was a +civil, well-spoken man, at least to us,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_253" id="Page_253">[Pg 253]</a></span> and spoke quite freely of his +calling, but we thought he spoke harshly to the poor negroes, especially +to the man with the wife and four children. It appears he had bought the +man separately from the woman and children, in order to bring them +together, but the man had attempted to run away, and told us in excuse +he did not like leaving his clothes behind him; whereupon papa asked him +if he cared more for his clothes than his wife, and gave him a lecture +on his domestic duties. The dealer said they sometimes are much +distressed when separated from their wives, or husband and children, but +that it was an exception when this was so. One can hardly credit this, +but so far as it is true it is one of the worst features of slavery that +it can thus deaden all natural feelings of affection. We have spoken a +good deal to the slaves here, and they seem anxious to obtain their +freedom. The brother of one of the waiters at our hotel had twice been +swindled by his master of the money he had saved to purchase his +freedom. I spoke to the housemaid at our hotel, also a slave, who +shuddered with horror when she described the miseries occasioned by the +separation of relations. She had been sold several times, and was +separated from her husband by being sold away from him. She said the +poor negroes are generally taken out of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_254" id="Page_254">[Pg 254]</a></span> their beds in the middle of the +night, when sold to the slave-dealers, as there is a sense of shame +about transacting this trade in the day-time. From what the slaves told +us, they are, no doubt, frequently treated with great severity by the +masters, though not always, as they sometimes fall into the hands of +kind people; but though they may have been many years in one family, +they never know from hour to hour what may be their fate, as the usual +cause for parting with slaves is, the master falling into difficulties, +when he sells them to raise money, or to pay his debts. The waiter told +us, he would rather starve as a freeman than remain a slave, and said +this with much feeling and energy.</p> + +<p><i>Cincinnati, Nov. 15th</i>, 9 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span>—We arrived here again this evening at +about seven o'clock. The road, the whole way from Lexington, 100 miles, +is very pretty, following the course of the Licking for a long way, with +high steep banks on both sides, sometimes rising into high hills, but +opening occasionally into wide valleys, with distant views of great +beauty. In many places the trees here have still their red, or rather +brown leaves, which formed a strange contrast with the thick snow +covering their branches and the ground beneath. The snow storm last +night, of which we had but the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_255" id="Page_255">[Pg 255]</a></span> tail at Lexington, was very heavy +further north, and the snow on the ground lighted up by the moon, +enabled us to see and enjoy the beauty of the scenery as we approached +Covington, at which place we embarked on board the steamboat to cross +the Ohio. I omitted, when we were here before, to mention that in our +Sunday walk at Covington, when we first crossed over to Kentucky, we +witnessed on the banks of the river a baptism by immersion, though the +attending crowd was so large that we could not distinctly see what was +going on. We are told, that on these occasions, the minister takes the +candidate for baptism so far into the river, that they are frequently +drowned. I forget if I mentioned before that Covington is built +immediately opposite Cincinnati, at the junction of the Ohio and the +Licking, which is here a considerable river, about 100 yards wide, and +navigable for steamboats sixty miles further up. The streets of +Covington are all laid out in a direct line with the corresponding +streets in Cincinnati, and as the streets on both sides mount up the +hills on which the towns are built, the effect is very pretty, +especially at night, when the line of lamps, interrupted only by the +river, appears of immense length. When the river is frozen over,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_256" id="Page_256">[Pg 256]</a></span> the +streets of the two cities may be said to form but one, as carts and +carriages can then pass uninterruptedly from the streets of Cincinnati, +to those on the opposite side, and <i>vice versâ</i>. This snow storm, which +has made us beat a rapid retreat from the cold and draughty hotels in +Kentucky, makes us feel very glad to be back in this comfortable hotel.</p> + +<p><i>Pittsburgh, Nov. 17th.</i>—Lord Radstock made his appearance at +Cincinnati yesterday, having come from Louisville in a steamer. The day +was very bright and beautiful, though intensely cold; and as papa was +very anxious to show Lord Radstock the view of Clifton from the heights +above, we hired a carriage and went there. We were, however, somewhat +disappointed, for the trees were entirely stripped of the beautiful +foliage which clothed them when we saw them three weeks ago, and were +laden with snow, with which the ground also was deeply covered; and +although the effect was still pretty, this gave a harshness to the +scene, the details being brought out too much in relief. The same cause +detracted, no doubt, from the beauty of the scenery we passed through to +day on our way here, and greatly spoilt the appearance of the hills +which surround Pittsburgh.</p> + +<p>But I must not anticipate a description of our<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_257" id="Page_257">[Pg 257]</a></span> journey here, but first +tell you of our further proceedings at Cincinnati. Lord Radstock is much +interested in reformatories and houses of refuge, and we were glad to +visit with him the one situated at about three miles from the town, the +exterior only of which we had seen in our drive with Mr. Anderson. The +building is very large and capacious, having cost 2700<i>l.</i> It is capable +of holding 200 boys and 80 girls, and the complement of boys is +generally filled up; but there are seldom above 60 girls. The whole +establishment seems admirably conducted. The boys and girls are kept +apart, and each one has a very nice, clean bed-room, arranged in prison +fashion, and opening on to long galleries; but with nothing to give the +idea of a cell, so perfectly light and airy is each room. There is an +hospital for the boys and one for the girls, large and well ventilated +rooms; that of the girls is beautifully cheerful, with six or eight nice +clean beds; but it says a good deal for the attention paid to their +health, that out of the whole number of boys and girls, there was only +one boy on the sick list, and he did not appear to have much amiss with +him. This is somewhat surprising, as the rooms in which they work are +heated by warm water, to a temperature which we should have thought must +be very<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_258" id="Page_258">[Pg 258]</a></span> prejudicial to their health, but with this exception, they have +every advantage. A large playground, a very large chapel, where they +meet for prayers and reading the Bible, the boys below, and the girls in +a gallery, and large airy schoolrooms. The children are admitted from +the age of 7 up to 16, and the boys are usually kept till 21, and the +girls till they are 18. The girls are taught needlework and household +work, or rather are employed in this way, independently of two hours and +a half daily instruction in the school, and the boys are brought up to a +variety of trades, either as tailors, shoemakers, workers of various +articles in wire, or the like. The proceeds of their work go in part to +pay the expenses of the establishment, but the cost is, with this small +exception, defrayed by the town, and amounts to about 20<i>l.</i> annually +for each boy. These poor children are generally sent there by the +magistrates on conviction of some crime or misdemeanour, but are often +sent by parents when they have troublesome or refractory children, and +the result is, in most cases, very satisfactory. They all seemed very +happy, and the whole had much more the appearance of a large school, +than of anything partaking of the character of a prison. Having called +in the afternoon and taken leave of the Longworths, Ander<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_259" id="Page_259">[Pg 259]</a></span>sons, and +others, who had shown us so much kindness when we were last here, we +started at half-past ten at night for this place.</p> + +<p>As we were already acquainted with the first part of the road to +Columbus, we thought we should not lose much by this plan, and we wished +besides to try the sleeping cars, which has not proved altogether a +successful experiment as far as papa is concerned, for he had very +little sleep, and is very headachy to-day in consequence. Thrower, too, +was quite knocked up by it; my powers of sleeping at all times and +places prevented my suffering in the same way, and I found these +sleeping cars very comfortable. They are ingeniously contrived to be +like an ordinary car by day; but by means of cushions spread between the +seats and a flat board let down half way from the ceiling, two tiers of +very comfortable beds are made on each side of the car, with a passage +between. The whole looks so like a cabin of a ship, that it is difficult +not to imagine oneself on board a steamboat. Twenty-four beds, each +large enough to hold two persons, can be made up in the cars, and the +strange jumble of ladies and gentlemen all huddled together was rather +ludicrous, and caused peals of laughter from some of the laughter-loving +American damsels. The cots are<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_260" id="Page_260">[Pg 260]</a></span> provided with pillows and warm quilted +counter-panes and curtains, which are all neatly packed away under the +seats in the daytime. The resemblance to the steamboat in papa's +half-waking moments seemed too much for his brain to be quite clear on +the subject of where he was. Thrower, who had shared my couch, got up +<i>sea sick</i> at about four in the morning, the motion of the carriage not +suiting her while in a recumbent position, and retired to a seat at one +end of the carriage. As we neared Columbus, papa became very restless, +and made a descent from over my head, declaring the heat was +intolerable. "Where," said I, "is your cloth cap?" "Oh!" he answered, "I +have thrown that away long ago; that's gone to the fishes." He said he +had so tossed himself about, that he did not think he had a button left +on his coat; things were not, however, quite so bad as this, and on +finding my couch too cold for him, I at last succeeded in making your +dear restless fidgetty papa mount up again to his own place, where, to +my comfort, and no doubt to his own also, he soon fell asleep. I got up +at five and sat by poor Thrower, and watched the lights of the rising +sun on hills, valleys, and rivers for an hour; when in came the +conductor, and thrusting his lamp into the face of the sleepers, and +giving them a shake, told them<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_261" id="Page_261">[Pg 261]</a></span> to get up, a quarter of an hour being +allowed them for breakfast. In one second the whole place was alive; +down came gentlemen without their boots, and ladies with their night +caps, and in a few minutes all were busily employed in the inn, +breakfasting. I had said we did not care about missing the first part of +the road which we had seen before; but the joint light of a brilliant +full moon and the snow on the hills, made us see the dear old Ohio and +the bold Kentucky banks as clearly, almost, as if it had been daylight, +till we retired to our beds; and, even then, I could not help lying +awake to view the glorious scene out of my cabin window.</p> + +<p>When we got up this morning we were entering a new country, and for many +miles went along a beautiful valley of one of the tributaries of the +Ohio. We again fell in with the Ohio at Steubenville, having traced the +tributary down to its mouth. Our road then lay along the bank of the +Ohio for about seventy miles, and anything more perfect in river scenery +it would be difficult to imagine. Many large tributaries fell into it, +the mouths of which we crossed over long bridges, and from these bridges +had long vistas up their valleys. For about thirty miles we had the bold +banks of Virginia opposite to us; but, after that, we quitted the state<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_262" id="Page_262">[Pg 262]</a></span> +of Ohio, and for forty miles the course of the river was through the +state of Pennsylvania. A number of steamboats enlivened the scene, with +their huge stern wheels making a great commotion in the water. The river +too was studded with islands, and the continuous bend, the river taking +one prolonged curve from Steubenville to Pittsburg, added greatly to the +beauty of the scene. On approaching Pittsburg we crossed the Alleghany, +which is a fine broad stream. The Monongahela, which here meets it, is a +still finer one, and the two together, after their junction, constitute +the noble river which then, for the first time, takes the name of the +Ohio, or, as it is most appropriately called by the French, "La belle +rivière"—for anything more beautiful than the seventy miles of it which +we saw to-day it would be difficult to imagine.</p> + +<p>We are lodged here at a very comfortable hotel, facing the Alleghany +river. The town forms a triangle, situated between this river and the +Monongahela, and after dinner, having arrived here early, we took a walk +from the hotel, across the town, until we arrived at the latter river. +The opposite bank here is of great height, and we crossed a bridge, 1500 +feet long, with the magnanimous intention of going to the top of the +hill to see the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_263" id="Page_263">[Pg 263]</a></span> magnificent prospect which the summit is said to +afford. But our strength, and breath, and courage failed us before we +had ascended a third of the height, although there is a good carriage +road up and in good condition, from the hard frost which still prevails. +The view, however, even at that height, was very fine, although it was +greatly marred by the smoky atmosphere which hangs over the city. After +recrossing the bridge we went to the point forming the apex of the +triangle, to see the confluence of the two rivers, and, as we could from +there look up both rivers and down the Ohio, the view is very +remarkable. The town itself disappointed us; but, perhaps, we expected +more than we ought reasonably to have done from a great and dirty +manufacturing town.</p> + +<p><i>Harrisburgh, Nov. 18th.</i>—We started this morning by the six o'clock +train in order to see the wonderful Pennsylvania railroad by daylight. +It is the great rival of the Baltimore and Ohio railway, on which we +travelled with Mr. Tyson, and we were rather anxious to have an +opportunity of comparing the two, which, having now seen them both, we +feel competent to do. The great change which nature presents now, to +what it did when the leaves were in full foliage, may make us<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_264" id="Page_264">[Pg 264]</a></span> underrate +the beauties of the road we passed over to-day, but, notwithstanding +this, we think there can be no doubt that the Baltimore and Ohio, taken +as a whole, is by far the most picturesque and beautiful. The length of +the two roads is very nearly the same; but, while the whole of the +Baltimore and Ohio was beautiful, one side of the mountain being as much +so as the other, the first part of the road to-day, till we reached the +summit level, was very much of the same character as many other mountain +regions we have passed. For many miles the road followed the course of +the Conemaugh, crossing and recrossing the river, but without any very +striking feature. But the moment we had passed through a tunnel, 3612 +feet long, and began the descent of 2200 feet, on the eastern side of +the Alleghany chain, the scene quite baffled description. The summit +level of the Baltimore and Ohio is 500 feet higher; but the descent +occupies a distance of seventeen miles, while the descent to-day was +effected in eleven, so that, with all our partiality for the Baltimore +and Ohio, it must be confessed there is nothing on it so wonderful and +sublime as this. One curve was quite appalling, and it was rendered more +so by the slow rate at which the train moved—not more, I should think, +than at the rate of two miles an hour<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_265" id="Page_265">[Pg 265]</a></span>—certainly not nearly so fast as +we could have walked, so that we had full leisure to contemplate the +chasm into which we should have been plunged headlong had the slightest +slip of the wheels occurred. How they can ever venture to pass it at +night is quite surprising. The curve is like a horse shoe, and goes +round the face of a rock which has been cut away to make room for the +road. Another superiority in the road we travelled to-day is the much +greater height of the surrounding mountains, and the extent of the +distant views;—but the greater height of the mountains had the +attendant disadvantage of the trees being chiefly pines, instead of the +lovely forest trees, of every description, which adorned the hills +amongst which we travelled in Maryland and Virginia, by the Baltimore +and Ohio railway.</p> + +<p>I must, however, do justice here to the eastern side of the mountains. +For more than 100 miles we closely followed the course of the Juniata, +from its source to where it ends its career by falling, quite a +magnificent river, into the Susquehanna, about twenty-two miles above +this place. After the junction, the noble Susquehanna was our companion +for that distance, this town being situated upon it. The source of the +Juniata is seen very soon after<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_266" id="Page_266">[Pg 266]</a></span> passing Altamont, and perhaps we were +more disposed to do justice to the beauty of the river, from the happy +frame of body and mind we were in, owing to the excellent dinner we had +just partaken of at that place, consisting of roast beef, roast turkey, +apple tart, cranberry preserve, and a most superlative Charlotte +Russe—pretty good fare for an hotel in a mountain pass! No wine or +stimulants of any kind were allowed, or what the consequence might have +been on papa's restless state of mind it would be difficult to say; as +it was, I counted that he rose from his seat to look at the view from +the other side of the car, thirty times in the space of an hour and a +half, making a move, therefore, upon an average, of once in every three +minutes; and this he afterwards continued to do as often as the road +crossed the river. I foolishly, at first, partook of his locomotive +propensities, but my exhausted frame soon gave way, so that he declares +I only saw one half of its beauties, namely, the half on the side where +I was seated; but this half was ample to satisfy any reasonable mortal. +I am at a loss to imagine what our fellow-travellers could have thought +of him, as they lounged on their seats, and scarcely ever condescended +to look out of window.</p> + +<p>We arrived here, not the least tired with our long<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_267" id="Page_267">[Pg 267]</a></span> journey, though it +occupied twelve hours, and were so fresh afterwards, that we started +after tea, this being the great annual Thanksgiving-day, to the nearest +place of worship we could find, which turned out to be a Baptist +"Church," as it is called here, where we heard a most admirable sermon, +and felt we had reason to offer up our thanks with as much earnestness +as any one of the congregation, for having been spared to make this +journey to the Far West, and to have returned to civilised life, without +encountering a single difficulty or drawback of any kind. I may as well +state, that this Thanksgiving-day was established by the Puritans, and +is still kept up throughout the whole of the United States, its object +being to return thanks for the blessings of the year, and more +especially for the harvest. There are services in all the churches, and +we much regretted not finding out till late yesterday, that this was the +day set apart for it, for had we known this, we should not have +travelled to-day; but once on our journey, with the fear of snow +accumulating in the mountains, we were afraid of stopping on the road, +and we were very glad to be able to attend the service this evening. +There is something very beautiful, I think, in thus setting apart one +day in the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_268" id="Page_268">[Pg 268]</a></span> year for such a purpose, and it is interesting too, as being +a relic left by the Puritans.</p> + +<p><i>November 19th.</i>—We are quite charmed with this place, which is a rare +exception to all the other capitals we have seen, inasmuch as more has +not been undertaken than has been carried out; in fact, it has much more +the appearance of a village than of a large city. The beauty of the +river surpasses all description. It is a mile wide, and bends gracefully +towards the direction of the mountains through the gorge from which it +issues forth in its course towards Chesapeake Bay, and here, where the +hills recede to a distance, it expands into a great width, and its face +is covered with islands. The only drawback to its being a grand river is +its shallowness, and want of adaptation, therefore, to the purpose of +navigation. There are no splendid steamboats to be seen here as on the +Ohio, which make one feel that river, at the distance of more than 2000 +miles from the sea, to be a noble highway of commerce, linking together +with a common interest distant portions of this vast continent. In the +Susquehanna, one feels that there is nothing but its beauty to admire, +but this <i>is</i> perfect.</p> + +<p>Two bridges connect the town with the opposite shore, each of them being +about a mile long. The<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_269" id="Page_269">[Pg 269]</a></span> weather is so piercingly cold, that we did not +venture across, but we took a long walk up the banks, of the river. The +town of Harrisburgh is very small, consisting of only three or four +streets parallel to the river, intersected by about a dozen others at +right angles to it. The centre one of these is a fine broad street, +closed in at the further end by the Capitol. This is a handsome, but +unpretending building of red brick, adorned by a portico, and, as usual, +surmounted by a dome. On entering at the top of a flight of stairs, +there is a circular area, covered in by the dome. Out of this, on one +side, is a very neat Senate House, and on the opposite side is the House +of Representatives. The State library, a very good one, is upstairs. The +flight of stairs up to this, which is continued up to the dome, is wide +and handsome, and of such easy ascent, that I ventured up to the top, in +order to take a bird's-eye view of the scenery we so much enjoyed below. +We were very well repaid for the trouble, especially as the gallery was +glazed, so that we could see the view without being exposed to the +cutting wind which was blowing outside.</p> + +<p>The houses here are generally of brick, painted a deep red colour, +which, not being in too great masses, and picked out with a good deal of +white,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_270" id="Page_270">[Pg 270]</a></span> has a very good effect. Some few houses, however, especially +towards the outskirts of the town, were of wood, painted white. We +yesterday passed many villages and towns of these pretty houses, but +with the snow lying around them, scarcely whiter than the houses +themselves, they had a very chilly appearance, and looked far less +tempting than the houses of this description in New England when we +first saw them, each in its pretty clean lawn, and surrounded by a +lovely foliage. To return to this town—and, as a climax to its +perfection, it has, out and out, the most comfortable hotel we have seen +in America. It is quite a bijou, with a very pretty façade, and, being +new last year, everything is in the best style. The ground floor, as is +generally the case in this country, consists, like the Hôtel du Louvre +in Paris, of good shops, which gives a gayer appearance to the whole +than if it were one mass of dwelling rooms. We find it so comfortable +that, instead of going on this afternoon to Philadelphia, we mean to +remain here to-night, and to go on to-morrow to New York.</p> + +<p><i>New York, Nov. 22nd.</i>—We took one more walk at Harrisburgh, before +starting on Saturday. The morning was lovely, and from the hill above +the town, which we had time to reach, the view was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_271" id="Page_271">[Pg 271]</a></span> very beautiful. But, +of all the picturesque things that I have lately seen, I think the scene +which presented itself this morning, when I opened our bedroom shutters +at six o'clock, was the most striking. The night, on which I had looked +out before going to bed, was clear and most beautiful; but a few stars +now only remained as the day had begun to dawn, and the east was +reddened by the approaching sunrise. Below the window was a very large +market-place, lighted up and crowded with buyers and sellers. The women +all had on the usual bonnet worn by the lower classes in this +country,—a sun-bonnet, made of coloured cotton, with a very deep +curtain hanging down the back. They wore besides warm cloaks and +coloured shawls, and the men large wide-awakes. I have already described +the brilliantly red houses, and the day being sufficiently advanced to +bring out the colour very conspicuously, I think I never saw a prettier +or busier scene, nor one which I could have wished more to have drawn, +but there was no time even to attempt it.</p> + +<p>After leaving Harrisburgh our road lay for some miles along the course +of the Susquehanna, and papa, who had bought a copy of Gertrude of +Wyoming, made me read it aloud to him, to the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_272" id="Page_272">[Pg 272]</a></span> great astonishment of our +fellow-travellers and at the expense of my lungs, the noise of a railway +carriage in America not being much suited for such an occupation. The +river presented a succession of rich scenery, being most picturesquely +studded with islands. We were quite sorry to take leave of it; but after +these few miles of great beauty, the road made a dash across the country +to Philadelphia. Papa, during the whole of the morning, had been most +wonderfully obtuse in his geography, and was altogether perplexed when, +before reaching Philadelphia, we came to the margin of the river we had +to cross to reach that town. He had been quite mystified all the morning +at Harrisburg, and at fault as to the direction in which the river was +running, and as to whether the streets we were in were at right angles +or parallel to it. This state of confusion became still worse when we +got into the carriage, as he had miscalculated on which side, after +leaving the town, we should first see the river, and had placed me on +the left side of the car, when it suddenly appeared, in all its glory, +on the right. He almost lost his temper, we all know how irritable he +<i>can</i> become, and exclaimed impatiently,—"Well, are we now on this side +of the river or the other?" but his puzzle at Philadelphia was from the +river which<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_273" id="Page_273">[Pg 273]</a></span> we then came upon, being the Schuylkill, while he thought +we had got, in some mysterious way, to the Delaware, on the <i>west</i> bank +of which the town is situated, as well as on the <i>east</i> of the +Schuylkill. The discovery of the river it really was of course solved +the puzzle; but for a long time he insisted that the steamboat we were +to embark upon, later in the day, on the Delaware, must be the one we +now saw, and it was all the passengers could do to persuade him to sit +still. He exclaimed, "But why not stay on this side, instead of crossing +the river to cross back again to take the cars?" It was altogether a +ludicrous state of confusion that poor Papa was in; but it ended, not +only in our crossing the river, but in our traversing the whole town of +Philadelphia, at its very centre, in the railway cars, going through +beautiful streets and squares; and, as we went at a slow pace, we had a +capital view of the shops and of the town, which was looking very clean +and brilliant, the day being fine and frosty.</p> + +<p>We made no stay at Philadelphia, but at length taking the cars on the +east side of the Delaware, we proceeded in them to South Amboy; where, +embarking again, we had a fine run of twenty-four miles between Staten +Island and the coast of New Jersey, and reached this place<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_274" id="Page_274">[Pg 274]</a></span> in time for +dinner. We regretted thus turning our backs on Philadelphia, and +Baltimore, and Washington, without seeing more of them; but the time we +have spent in the west has exceeded what we had counted on this part of +our journey occupying, and we are anxious to get home to you all.</p> + +<p>On our railway and on the steamer, we had with us a body of the firemen +of Philadelphia, who were on their way to pay to their brother-firemen +here one of those complimentary visits we have spoken of. There was loud +cheering from their cars as we left Philadelphia, and as we passed +through the different towns on the road, which was well responded to by +the bystanders who had collected to witness the sight. The men were +dressed in a most picturesque uniform, and had a good brass band, which +played during the whole time that we were on board the steamer. On +landing, there were bonfires on the quay, and rockets let off in honour +of their arrival; but, though the crowd was great, we had not the +slightest difficulty in landing, for all these matters are carried on +with the greatest order in this country, which is the more remarkable, +as the people have very excitable natures. Late at night, when we were +going to bed, a company of firemen<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_275" id="Page_275">[Pg 275]</a></span> crossed this street with lights and +torches, with a band playing, and dragging a fire-engine covered with +lamps; forming quite a moving blaze of light.</p> + +<p>We yesterday spent our first Sunday in New York, having hitherto been +always away on that day; and we heard a wonderfully impressive and +admirable sermon from Dr. Tyng. The church in which he preached was of +very large dimensions, but his voice penetrated it throughout; he stood +on a small platform instead of a pulpit, with a low desk in front, so +that his whole figure could be seen. He had a good deal of action, but +it was in very good taste, and the matter of his sermon was beyond all +praise. The text was from the latter part of Col. i. 17, "And by Him all +things consist." In the afternoon we heard a good, but not so striking a +sermon, from Dr. Bedell; and it was suggested to us to go in the evening +to the Opera-house to hear a great Presbyterian preacher, Mr. Alexander; +but this we did not feel disposed to do. The Opera-house is being made +use of, as our Exeter Hall is, for Special Services.</p> + +<p>I think I may as well fill up the rest of this sheet by describing the +arrangements of American hotels. There are frequently two entrances, one +for ladies and the other for gentlemen. That for the ladies<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_276" id="Page_276">[Pg 276]</a></span> leads by a +private staircase to the ladies' drawing-room; and the gentlemen's +entrance opens upon what is called the office. Whether there are +separate entrances or not, the gentleman is at once conducted to the +office, which is usually crowded with spitters and smokers; and there he +enters his name in the travellers' book. This done, the waiter shows him +to the drawing-room, where the lady has been requested, in the meantime, +to wait, and they are then taken, often through long and wide passages, +to their bedrooms. A private drawing-room may be had by paying extra for +it; but the custom is to do without one, and to make use of the ladies' +drawing-room, which is always a pretty room, and often a very handsome +one. In it are invariably to be found a piano, at which the ladies +frequently perpetrate most dreadful music; a marble table, in the centre +of which always stand a silver tray and silver tankard and goblets +containing iced water, a rocking chair, besides other easy-chairs and +sofas, and a Bible. It is a rare thing not to find a Bible, the gift of +a Society, in every bedroom and drawing-room in the hotel. The bedrooms +never have bed-curtains, and sometimes no window-curtains; but the +windows usually have Venetian or solid shutters.</p> + +<p>The dining-hall is a spacious apartment, often 80<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_277" id="Page_277">[Pg 277]</a></span> or sometimes 100 feet +long, and in some large hotels there are two of these, one used for +railway travellers, and the other for the regular guests. The meals are +always at a <i>table-d'hôte</i>, with printed bills of fare; the dishes are +not handed round, as in Germany, but the guests are required to look at +the bill of fare and name their dishes, which does not seem a good plan, +as one's inclination is always to see how the dish looks before ordering +it. Everything comes as soon as asked for, and there is a great choice +of dishes. There is very little wine drunk at table, but to every hotel +there is appended a bar, where, we are told, the gentlemen make amends +for their moderation at table by discussing gin sling, sherry cobbler, +&c.; but of course I know nothing of this, excepting from hearsay. The +utmost extent of Papa's excesses on the rare occasions when he went into +these bars, was to get a glass of Saratoga water; but he has failed to +give me any description of what he saw. The breakfasts are going on +usually from seven till nine. The general dinner-hour is one; but there +is sometimes a choice of two hours, one and three. Tea, consisting of +tea, coffee, and sweet cakes and preserves, takes place at six; and +there is a cold meat supper at nine. Meals are charged extra if taken in +private. It is a good<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_278" id="Page_278">[Pg 278]</a></span> plan in travelling never to reserve oneself at +the end of the day's journey for the hotel dinner, as there is a chance +of arriving after it is over, when the alternative is to go without; the +railway dinners are quite as good, find often better, than those at the +hotel. The use of the ladies' drawing-room is restricted to ladies and +gentlemen accompanying them; no single gentleman, is allowed to sit in +it unless invited by a lady; but there is a separate reading-room for +gentlemen, supplied with newspapers, and there is generally another room +reserved for smoking, but the accommodation in these rooms is, in +general, very inferior to those set apart for the ladies. In the hall of +the hotel there is frequently a counter for the sale of newspapers, +books, and periodicals, and all hotels have a barber's shop, which is a +marvellous part of the establishment. The fixed charge at the hotels is +generally from 8s. to 10s. per day for each person.</p> + +<p>We have just settled to sail for England on the 1st December, so I shall +have only one more journal letter to write to you, and shall be myself +the bearer of it.</p> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTE:</h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_13_13" id="Footnote_13_13"></a><a href="#FNanchor_13_13"><span class="label">[13]</span></a> The account referred to was written as far back as 1839, +and is so much more accurate a description of the Falls, and of the +canal, than that given in the Railway Guide, that I must here extract +it. +</p><p> +"The falls of the Ohio are occasioned by an irregular ledge of rock +stretching across the river. They are only perceptible at low water, the +whole descent being but twenty-two feet, while the difference of level +between the highest and lowest stages of the water is about sixty feet. +When the river is full, they present, therefore, no serious obstruction +to the navigation. To obviate the inconvenience, however, at low water, +a canal, called the Louisville and Portland Canal, has been constructed +round the falls, which is deserving of notice, as being, perhaps, the +most important work of the kind ever undertaken. The cross section of +the canal is 200 feet at the top of the bank, 50 feet at the bottom, and +42 feet deep, making its capacity about fifteen times greater than that +contemplated for the Erie Canal after its enlargement is completed: its +sides are sloping and paved with stone. The guard lock contains 21,775 +perches of masonry, being equal to that of fifteen locks on the New York +Canals; and three others contain 12,300 perches. This canal is capable +of admitting steamboats of the largest class. It is scarcely two miles +in length; but, considering the quantity of mason work, and the +difficulty of excavating earth and rock from so great a depth, together +with the contingencies attending its construction, from the fluctuations +in the depth of the river, it is probably no over-statement when it is +said, that the work in it is equal to that of seventy or seventy-five +miles of an ordinary canal.</p></div></div> + +<hr /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_279" id="Page_279">[Pg 279]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="LETTER_XIII" id="LETTER_XIII"></a>LETTER XIII.</h2> + +<blockquote><p>NEW YORK— ASTOR LIBRARY.— COOPER INSTITUTE.— BIBLE HOUSE.— DR. +RAE— DR. TYNG.— TARRYTOWN.— ALBANY.— SLEIGHING— FINAL RETURN TO +BOSTON.— HALIFAX.— VOYAGE HOME.— CONCLUSION.</p></blockquote> + +<p class='right'>Albany, Nov. 27th, 1858.</p> + +<p>My last letter was despatched to you on the 23rd inst.;—that evening we +dined at Mr. Aspinwall's. He has a handsome house in New York, and a +large picture gallery, and as we wished to see this by daylight, we +called on him after breakfast on the following morning, and had an +opportunity of examining the pictures, many of which are very good, +especially some by early Dutch masters.</p> + +<p>Mr. Aspinwall afterwards took us to the Astor Library. This library was +founded by the munificence of the late Mr. Astor, a very rich merchant, +who bequeathed a large sum of money for the purpose. It is remarkably +well arranged and pretty, and capable of containing about 300,000 +volumes. Mr. Cogswell, the librarian, showed us some of the most +valuable<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_280" id="Page_280">[Pg 280]</a></span> books. He was acquainted with Papa's name, as he had bought +his book in London for the library, and appeared familiar with its +contents. He said he valued it as filling up a gap in the financial +history of America that was not supplied by any work in this country.</p> + +<p>Mr. Aspinwall took us afterwards to the Cooper Institute, founded by Mr. +Peter Cooper, another very eminent citizen of New York, who has done +this good deed in his lifetime. He happened to be there, and as Mr. +Aspinwall introduced us to him, he showed us round the building himself. +He is a rich ironmonger, and an eccentric man. The building has cost +100,000<i>l.</i>; it is intended for public lectures and for a school of +design. At the time we were there, some specimens of drawings, +penmanship, &c., by the scholars of the Free Schools in New York were +being exhibited, and were, in general, very creditable performances. We +went to the top of the building, and, the weather being remarkably clear +and fine, we had a good view of the town and of the surrounding country. +Anything like country, however, can only be seen on one side across the +Hudson, although, on the opposite side of New York Bay, Staten Island +can be seen stretching "right away" to the south;<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_281" id="Page_281">[Pg 281]</a></span> but the wonderful +sight is the immense city itself, extending for miles in a northern +direction.</p> + +<p>We rather crowded into this last day all the sights that we had hitherto +omitted to see at New York; for we went also to the Bible House, a very +large building near the Cooper Institute. In this Bible House not only +are copies of the Bible sold, as in our corresponding institution in +London, but the whole process of printing, making up, and binding the +Bible is carried on. The number of Bibles and Testaments issued by the +establishment is very great, amounting, during the last year, to +712,045. During that period there were 250,000 Bibles printed and +381,000 Testaments, besides 500 books for the blind printed in raised +types, making a total of 631,500 volumes; and this, owing to a scarcity +of funds, arising out of the late pecuniary pressure, is a decrease from +the year before of 110,000 volumes, so that it was from the store in +hand that the excess of the volumes issued above the number printed was +taken. These Bibles and Testaments are in every language, and in every +form and size. The machinery is worked by steam, and the immense +building is warmed from the same source. Some idea of its extent may be +conceived by the fact<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_282" id="Page_282">[Pg 282]</a></span> that there are twelve miles of pipes used in this +warming process.<a name="FNanchor_14_14" id="FNanchor_14_14"></a><a href="#Footnote_14_14" class="fnanchor">[14]</a></p> + +<p>After this hard day's work we dined at Mr. Russell's, to meet Dr. Rae, +the Arctic traveller, and in the evening we went to the Geographical +Society to hear a lecture on his last northern expedition, when he +gained all the information known respecting poor Sir John Franklin, in +search of whom he had been sent by the British Government. He showed us +many relics of that unfortunate party, consisting of spoons, +watch-cases, &c.; the lecture was very interesting, especially with +regard to the origin and transportation of boulders. He produced an +enormous head of a deer, which had a curious horn in front between the +two side ones; this is a common appendage to the antlers of the deer of +that region. He told us an amusing anecdote of his having been present +when Professor Owen was lecturing on this strange appearance, and +described the wisdom of this provision, to enable the animal to clear +its way in the snow in search of its food below it; but Dr. Rae was able +entirely to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_283" id="Page_283">[Pg 283]</a></span> overset this theory, by stating that the whole horny +appendages of this deer are always shed before any snow makes its +appearance on the ground.</p> + +<p>At dinner we met Mr. Rutherford, who begged us to go after the lecture +to see his observatory, in which, he said, he had the best and largest +telescope in America, not excepting the one at Washington; we went +therefore to see it, though the lecture was not over till half-past ten, +and were repaid by a sight of Jupiter, and his belts and satellites: but +though the telescope was larger than the one at Washington, being of the +same focal length, and having an object glass nearly two inches wider, +it did not strike us as being so clear and good an instrument. It is +undoubtedly, however, a very fine one, and entirely of American make. +Much as we have had to record this day, there was more jumbled into it; +but instead of going to see the last sight I have to record, it obtruded +itself upon us at every turn. This was a military procession, flags +flying, &c., to commemorate the evacuation of the town of New York by +the British, after the first war of Independence. A great dinner is +always given on this day by the members of the Order of Cincinnati, and +Papa was asked to go to it, but our engagement to Mr. Russell prevented +his accepting the invitation.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_284" id="Page_284">[Pg 284]</a></span></p> + +<p>I think the only further thing of interest which I have to record about +our visit this time to New York, was our calling on Dr. Tyng; he is a +most interesting person, and talked much about revivals and slavery. He +said there was undoubtedly a greater degree of serious feeling gradually +spreading in New York, especially among the artisans and labouring +classes; but he could see nothing of that work of the Spirit on the +large scale which others speak of, and he thinks the nature and extent +of the revivals have been over-estimated.</p> + +<p>With regard to slavery, Dr. Tyng is a very good judge, as, for the first +six years of his ministry, he had a considerable parish in the slave +state of Maryland, extending over a large tract of plantation lands, +cultivated entirely by slaves. The slave population in this parish was +about 8000, and he says the treatment of the slaves was almost all that +could be desired for their temporal comfort, as far as good clothing, +good food, and kind treatment went, and he had known but very few cases +of slaves being ill-treated or even flogged during his six years' +residence there: still no one can condemn more strongly than he does the +whole system, as lowering and degrading the moral tone, both of the +white and the black population.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_285" id="Page_285">[Pg 285]</a></span></p> + +<p>As I shall probably have no occasion to allude again to slavery, as the +rest of our short stay on this continent will now be among the free +states, I may say I have seen nothing to lessen, and everything to +confirm, the strong impression I have always entertained respecting it. +Besides what we have seen, we have read as much as we could on the +subject, and must record a little book called "Aunt Sally, or the Cross +the Way to Freedom," as being the most faithful account of the evils of +slavery we have met with. It is the story of a female slave's life, and +is said to be strictly true and devoid of all exaggeration, and it is a +most touching account of the power of religion in her case, in upholding +her through a long life of trials and degradation.<a name="FNanchor_15_15" id="FNanchor_15_15"></a><a href="#Footnote_15_15" class="fnanchor">[15]</a></p> + +<p>On Friday, the 26th instant, we took our final leave of New York. We +left it by the Hudson River Railway, the same by which we went to West +Point two days after our arrival in America, and it was curious to +contrast our feelings on getting into the cars now with those which we +experienced when we first set our foot into them; we thought at first +that we never could encounter a long journey<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_286" id="Page_286">[Pg 286]</a></span> in them, and dreaded all +sorts of disasters. Yet now, independently of steamboat travelling, we +have travelled altogether in railways over more than 5500 miles, and it +is somewhat singular that in the great number of separate journeys we +have taken, we have only on one occasion been late on arriving at our +destination, which was on reaching Chicago. The train was then two hours +late in a journey of 281 miles, and that not owing to any accident, but +solely to the slippery state of the rails, after a heavy rain, which +rendered caution necessary. The only hitch from accident (if it was +one), was for five minutes at Rome, on the New York Central Railway, +when we were delayed for that time, on account of what William told us +was "something wrong with the engine." We have only 200 miles left to +travel between this and Boston, and we have great reason to be thankful +for having performed so long a journey not only in perfect safety, but +without any anxiety, and scarcely any fatigue.<a name="FNanchor_16_16" id="FNanchor_16_16"></a><a href="#Footnote_16_16" class="fnanchor">[16]</a></p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_287" id="Page_287">[Pg 287]</a></span>One marked improvement in the eastern over the western railways, is in +the gentlemen's special accomplishment of spitting being much less +active in the east, owing to their chewing tobacco less vigorously. In +the west it is dreadful to see and hear how this habit goes on during +the whole day, not out of window, but on the floors of the cars and +omnibuses, and all over the hall and passages of the hotels.</p> + +<p>But to return to our journey from New York on the Hudson. It was a +beautiful day, and the scenery quite lovely. We had only twenty-seven +miles to go to Mr. Bartlett's, to whom we had brought letters from +England, and who asked us to pass the first night of our journey at his +country place near Tarrytown. On arriving at the station there, he drove +us to his house, which stands on an eminence three miles higher up the +river. The river here is rather more than three miles in width, but the +atmosphere was so clear that every house on the opposite bank could be +distinctly seen, and the opposite shore is so high, that we could hardly +imagine the river to be<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_288" id="Page_288">[Pg 288]</a></span> as wide as it is. The view from the house is +perfectly magnificent. The eye takes in a distance of thirty miles up +and down the river, there being here a long reach, having almost the +appearance of a lake, the river above and below not being more than from +a mile to a mile and a half in width. Immediately opposite Tarrytown is +the town of Nyach, which is connected with Tarrytown by a steam ferry. +In passing from Tarrytown to Mr. Bartlett's house, we drove through the +Sleepy Hollow, the scene of one of Washington Irving's tales, and passed +the old Dutch church, which is mentioned by him in the legend, as the +place of sanctuary where Ichabod took refuge. In fact, the whole scenery +is classic ground here; and Mr. Irving himself, who has rendered it so, +lives only two miles off, at Sunnyside.</p> + +<p>After giving us some luncheon, Mr. Bartlett took Papa a walk up a high +hill behind the house, the view from which he describes as perfectly +enchanting; but it would be difficult for anything to surpass the one +seen from the house, combining every possible feature of wood, hill, +dale, and water; but if I cannot describe this, it would be equally +impossible to describe the perfect taste and beauty of the house itself. +The chief features are the carving of the wooden staircase, the +chimney-pieces in the library<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_289" id="Page_289">[Pg 289]</a></span> and dining-room, and of the book-cases in +the library. The carpet of the drawing-room was Aubusson tapestry, and +the furniture was entirely from French patterns or imported from Paris, +where it was made on purpose for the different rooms; every part of the +house, including the bed-rooms, was filled with choice engravings. One +bed-room specially struck us, the paper and chintz furniture of which +were exactly of the same pattern of roses on a white ground, and the +effect was beautiful; but there were many others in equally good taste, +all with French papers. Hot and cold water were laid on in the rooms, +and hot air likewise, though not so as to be in the least oppressive. +Mrs. Bartlett's bed-room and dressing-room were the climax of all. The +woodwork throughout the house was varied in every story: there was black +oak, red pine, and white pine, all of very fine grain; the hall was +covered with encaustic tiles from Minton's; the offices were in keeping, +dairy, laundry, &c. Papa went over the farm and gardens, which were in +the same exquisite order; and there were greenhouses and hothouses, +which looked at a distance like a little Crystal Palace. Mrs. Bartlett +is a very amiable person, but a great invalid, and seldom leaves her +room.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_290" id="Page_290">[Pg 290]</a></span></p> + +<p>This morning we proceeded on our way to this place; before getting into +the train at twelve o'clock, we drove over to Sunnyside; but, alas! Mr. +Irving was out, and we could only walk about his grounds, and peep in at +his study window. As this brought us to Tarrytown sooner than we counted +upon, I had time to climb up one of the hills, and much enjoyed the +view, although it was not so extensive as the one Papa saw yesterday. As +we got northward, on our way to Albany, the snow, which had almost +disappeared at Tarrytown, became very deep, the land was covered with a +white garment, and the river partially with a coating of ice. At Hudson, +opposite the Catskill mountains, we, for the first time, saw sledging, +sledges having there taken the place of the usual carriages which come +to meet the train. There were many carts, also, and an omnibus, all on +sledges, and the whole had a singularly wintry appearance.</p> + +<p>We are housed again at the Delavan House, and find the twenty-four +damsels have donned long sleeves to their gowns, which are now of dark +cotton instead of pink; but their hoops are as large, and their faces as +impudent as ever, forcing Papa to restrain his grin, particularly when +they stand in double file on each side of the table, all in the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_291" id="Page_291">[Pg 291]</a></span> same +pose, with their arms crossed before them, when we enter the +dining-room.</p> + +<p>We are glad to find ourselves again here, for this hotel bears away the +palm from all others we have seen in America, with the exception of that +at Harrisburgh, which can alone compare with it in the general beauty of +the rooms. To describe, for instance, the bedroom in which we are now +sitting. The room is about twenty-four feet square, having two large +windows looking to the street, and a mirror and handsome marble +consol-table between them. The windows have very handsome gilt cornices, +with tamboured muslin curtains, and others of a blue and gold coloured +damask; there are two large sofas, and four small chairs of dark walnut +wood, carved and covered with the same material as the curtains, and a +smaller chair with a tapestry seat—also a large rocking-chair covered +with Utrecht velvet. The bed is of prettily carved black walnut, the +wash-hand-stand the same, with marble slab; there is a very handsome +Brussels carpet, a large round table, at which I am now writing, a very +handsome bronze and ormolu lustre, with six gaslights, and two ormolu +candelabra on the chimney-piece. The chimney-piece is of white marble, +and over it is a most gorgeously carved mirror. The room is about<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_292" id="Page_292">[Pg 292]</a></span> +fourteen feet high; the ceiling slightly alcoved and painted in +medallions of flowers on a blue ground, with a great deal of very well +painted and gilt moulding, which Papa at first thought was really in +relief. The paper is a white ground, with a gold pattern, and a coloured +border above, and below, and at the angles of the room; the door leads +into a very fine wide passage, and there are two others, each leading +into an adjoining room, all painted pure white; so is the +skirting-board; and the door handles are white porcelain. Thrower's +room, next ours, is much the same, but of about half the size. There are +Venetian blinds to the windows, not made to draw up, but folding like +shutters, and divided into several small panels. Our two windows look +into a broad cheerful street, in which the snow is lying deep, and the +whole scene is enlivened, every now and then, by the sleighs and their +merry bells as they pass along.</p> + +<p><i>Nov. 29th.</i>—Yesterday the morning was very brilliant. Being desirous +of seeing a Shaker village, and the nature of their service, we had +ordered a vehicle over night to be ready at nine o'clock, when a sleigh +made its appearance at the door, with skins of fur and every appliance +to keep us warm. These sleighs are most elegant machines, and this one<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_293" id="Page_293">[Pg 293]</a></span> +had a hood, though this is not a common appendage. It was drawn by a +pair of horses, the driver standing in front. The road was, at first, up +a steep hill, but the horses seemed as if they had no weight behind +them. On reaching the high land the view, looking back upon the river, +was very pretty. The whole country was deeply covered with snow, and in +many places, where it had drifted, it had the appearance of large waves, +of which the crests curled gracefully over, and looked as if they had +been frozen in the act of curling: some of these crests or waves were +four or five feet above the level of the road. We were about an hour +reaching the village, and were much disappointed to find the gate at the +entrance closed, and a painted board hung on it, to announce there would +be no meeting that day. Nothing could exceed the apparent order and +decorum of the place; but we could not effect a closer approach, though +our driver tried hard to gain admittance for us. We therefore returned +to Albany, but took a different road home, and enjoyed our sleighing +much; and the cheerful sound of the bells round our horses' necks was +quite enlivening; still, in spite of our wraps, we must confess that we +were not sorry when it was over. On our return to the town we entered<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_294" id="Page_294">[Pg 294]</a></span> a +church and heard the end of a sermon. It was a large Baptist church; but +we were rather late, for we were told, by a boy at the door, that "the +text had been on about forty minutes;" but, to judge from the sample we +had of the discourse, we were probably no great losers. The church was a +handsome building, but we were chiefly attracted by the following +notice, in large letters, at the entrance.</p> + +<h4>UNION PRAYER MEETING DAILY IN THIS CHURCH,</h4> + +<h4>FROM TWELVE TO ONE O'CLOCK.</h4> + +<p class='center'>"Come in, if only for a few moments; all are welcome."</p> + +<p>After leaving the church we walked towards the Capitol, which is +situated at the end of a very wide street, State Street, and, as this +street rises by a tolerably steep ascent from the river, there is an +extensive view over the river and the adjacent country from the plateau +on which the Capitol stands. There are two very handsome buildings +adjoining, of fine white stone, with Greek porticoes; but the Capitol +itself, which is a considerably older building than the others, is of +red brick. We had not time to explore further, for a heavy snow storm +came on, which lasted for the rest of the day.</p> + +<p><i>Boston, Nov. 30th.</i>—Yesterday morning we<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_295" id="Page_295">[Pg 295]</a></span> started early for this +place, and the journey occupied the whole day. We had travelled this +road before when the country was rich in its summer clothing, and the +contrast was very strange as we saw it to-day. The heavy fall of snow +the night before had covered not only the ground but the trees of the +forests and the ponds and lakes, which were all frozen over. The +Connecticut, however, glided calmly along, though it too was frozen over +above the places where falls in the river obstructed the current. We +passed several of these, which had a curious appearance, long and +massive icicles hanging along the whole crest of the fall, and curiously +intermingling with the water which was pouring over the rocks. The +beautiful New England villages were as white as ever, the white snow +scarcely detracting from the purity of the whiteness of the buildings. +It was a splendid day, without a cloud in the sky, and the sun shining +on the snow gave it a most brilliant and sparkling appearance.</p> + +<p>To-day we have been chiefly engaged in shopping; but we contrived, +besides, to see the public Library and Athenæum, as well as the Hospital +and Prison, which Papa went over with Lord Radstock when we were first +here, both of which fully bear out the account he gave me of them.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_296" id="Page_296">[Pg 296]</a></span> We +feel quite sad to think that this is our last day in America, for we +have enjoyed ourselves much; Papa has, indeed, up till late this +evening, been engaged in business; but you are not to suppose from this +that he has never had any relaxation; I am most thankful to say, on the +contrary, that much of our time has been a holiday, and I trust his +health has much benefited by our travels. But, whatever our regrets may +be at leaving this interesting country, I need scarcely say with what +delight we look forward to a return home to our dear children, where, I +trust, a fortnight hence, to find you all well and prospering. We +embark, at nine to-morrow morning, in the "Canada" for Liverpool, where +I shall hope to add a few lines to this on landing.</p> + +<p><i>December 11th, off Cape Clear.</i>—As it may be late to-morrow before we +land, and we may not have time to write from Liverpool, I shall close +this now, or at all events only add a line from that place. Barring a +severe gale of wind, our voyage has been tolerably prosperous since we +left Halifax; but I must not anticipate, as I wish to say a little more +about Boston, for I omitted in my last day's Journal to mention the +admirable arrangement on the Western Railway, by which we came from<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_297" id="Page_297">[Pg 297]</a></span> +Albany, as regards checking the luggage. This practice, as I have +already told you, is universal, but, generally speaking, one of the +<i>employés</i> of the Packet Express Company takes charge of the checks +before the passengers leave the cars, and for a trifling charge the +luggage is delivered at any hotel the passenger may direct; where this +is not done, the checks are usually given to the conductor of the +omnibus, of which almost every hotel sends its own to the station. But +this latter practice leads to much noise, each conductor shouting out +the name of his hotel, as is done at Boulogne and elsewhere on the +arrival of the packets. On gliding into the spacious station at Boston +we were prepared to encounter this struggle, our checks not having been +given up in the car; but, to our surprise, there was a total absence of +this noisy scene, and on looking out we saw along the platform a range +of beautiful gothic recesses, over each of which was written the name of +an hotel, and we had only to walk along till we came to "Tremont House," +when, without a word passing, we slipped into the hand of a man +stationed within, the checks for our baggage, he simply indicating "No. +2" as the omnibus we were to get into. Walking to the end of the +platform, we found a complete row of omnibuses, all consecu<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_298" id="Page_298">[Pg 298]</a></span>tively +numbered, and marched in silence to No. 2, which in a minute or two +drove off with us and the other passengers destined for the Tremont +House; we found this, as before, a very comfortable hotel, and our +luggage was there within a few minutes after our arrival.</p> + +<p>Before quitting the subject of the American hotels, we ought to state +that, from what we hear, unhappy single gentlemen meet with a very +different fate to that of persons travelling in company with ladies. One +poor friend greatly bewailed his lot after he had left his wife at +Toronto; on presenting himself at the "office" of the hotel he used to +be eyed most suspiciously, especially when they saw his rough drab +coloured travelling dress, for the criterion of a genteel American is a +black coat and velvet collar. He was accordingly sent in general to a +garret, and other travellers have told us the same; one on board the +steamers quite confirmed this account, and told us he considered it a +piece of great luxury when he had a gaslight in his room. He made this +remark on our reading to him the account I have given of our room in +Albany and its splendid six-light candelabra.</p> + +<p>But to go on with our adventures: we embarked on board the steamer at 9 +<span class="smcap">A.M.</span> on Wednesday,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_299" id="Page_299">[Pg 299]</a></span> the 1st December. The view of the harbour of Boston, +formed by a variety of islands, was most beautiful, in spite of the deep +snow which covered them. The day was brilliantly sunny, but intensely +cold, and it continued bitterly cold till we reached Halifax on Thursday +night. The Boston steamers always touch at that place, and the liability +to detention by fogs in making the harbour, renders this passage often a +disagreeable one in the foggy season; but when the weather is as cold as +now, it is invariably clear, and we steered up the beautiful harbour of +Halifax with no interruption but that caused by the closing in of the +day, rendering it necessary to slacken our speed as we neared the town. +It was dark when we arrived, but having two hours to spare, we took a +walk, and after passing through the town-gate, saw what we could of the +place, respecting which I felt great interest, from my father having +been Chief-justice there many years; his picture by West, of which we +have a copy in D. P. H. by West himself, is at the Court House; but of +course we could not see it so late at night; and, in fact, could only go +to one or two shops to make some purchases as memorials of the place. It +began to snow hard before we returned on board, and the cold was so +intense, though less so<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_300" id="Page_300">[Pg 300]</a></span> since the snow began, that the upper part of +the harbour above where we stopped was frozen over.</p> + +<p>We took Sir Fenwick Williams, of Kars, and a great many other officers, +on board at Halifax, and sailed again at midnight. Next day the intense +cold returned, and a severe north-wester made it almost impossible to +keep on deck. Every wave that dashed over us, left its traces behind in +a sheet of ice spread over the deck, and in the icicles which were +hanging along the bulwarks, and formed a fringe to the boats which were +hanging inside the ship; one poor passenger, with a splendid beard, told +us he found it quite hard and stiff, and we could have told him how much +we admired the icicles which were hanging to it. The thermometer, +however, was only at 15°, it being the wind that made it so intensely +cold. I did not get on deck, for, owing to the coating of ice, walking +on it became a service of some danger; and I did my best to keep Papa +from going up, though he often insisted on doing so, to enjoy the beauty +of the scene. The captain says that it is sometimes most trying to be on +this coast in winter, as the thermometer, instead of being 15° above +zero as it was then, is often 15° below, when the ropes and everything +become frozen. This cold lasted till Monday, when we were clear of "the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_301" id="Page_301">[Pg 301]</a></span> +banks," and fairly launched into the wide Atlantic. The wind continued +to blow strongly from the north-west, with a considerable amount of sea, +which put an end to my even thinking of going on deck, but Papa +persevered, and every day passed many hours there, walking up and down +and enjoying it much, especially as it was daily getting warmer. I +wished much I could have accompanied him, but by this time I was +completely prostrated by sea-sickness.</p> + +<p>The weather, though blowy, continued very fine till Tuesday at four +o'clock, when Papa came down and told me to prepare for a gale; an +ominous black cloud had shown itself in the north-west horizon; this +would not of itself have created much sensation, had it not been +accompanied by an extraordinary fall in the barometer; it had, in fact, +been falling for twenty-four hours, for at noon on Monday it stood +rather above 30, and at midnight was as low as 29·55, which, in these +latitudes, is a great fall. But on Tuesday, at nine <span class="smcap">A.M.</span>, it had fallen +to 28·80, when it began rapidly to sink, till at half-past three it +stood at 28·40, showing a fall of more than an inch and a half since the +preceding day at noon. It seems that this is almost unprecedented, so +that when the little black cloud appeared, every sail was taken<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_302" id="Page_302">[Pg 302]</a></span> in, and +the main topmast and fore top-gallantmast lowered down on deck, and this +was not done a bit too soon, for by half-past four, it blew a hurricane. +The captain told a naval officer on board, that he had thought of +putting the ship's head towards the gale, to let it blow past, but on +further consideration, he put her right before it, though at the expense +of losing a good deal of ground, as it made us go four points out of our +course. Papa, who was on deck, said it was most magnificent to hear the +fierce wind tearing past the vessel, and to see the ship not swaying in +the least one way or another, but driving forwards with the masts +perpendicular, as if irresistibly impelled through the water, without +appearing to feel the waves. But alas, alas, this absence of motion, +which was a paradise to me, lasted but some twenty minutes, while the +fury of the blast continued. We ran before the gale for the next four +hours, when it sufficiently moderated to enable us to resume our proper +course.</p> + +<p>The gale continued, however, till four next morning, and such a night I +never passed. The doctor said, neither he nor any officer in the ship +could sleep, and next morning the poor stewardess and our peculiar cabin +boy mournfully deplored their fate, the former being forced to confess +that, though<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_303" id="Page_303">[Pg 303]</a></span> for years accustomed to the sea, she had been desperately +sick. In fact no one had ever known the vessel to roll before as she did +this night, and the sounds were horrible. The effect of one sea, in +particular, striking the ship was appalling, from the perfect stillness +which followed it. The vessel seemed quite to stagger under the blow and +to be paralysed by it, so that several seconds must have elapsed before +the heavy rolling recommenced. This, and the creaking and groaning of +the vessel, had something solemn about it; but some minor sounds were +neither so grand nor so philosophically borne by either Papa or myself. +One of the most persevering of these arose from my carelessness in +having forgotten to bolt the door of a cupboard which I made use of, in +our cabin, the consequence of which was that, with every lurch of the +vessel, the door gave a violent slam, and our lamp having been put out +at midnight, as it invariably was, we were in total darkness, and +without the means of ascertaining whether the irritating noise +proceeded, as we suspected, from the cupboard door, or from one of the +doors having been left open in the passage adjoining our cabin. It would +have been dangerous to have got up in the dark, and with a violent +lurching of the vessel, to discover the real<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_304" id="Page_304">[Pg 304]</a></span> cause of this wearisome +noise. I had a strong feeling of self-reproach in my own mind at having +brought such a calamity on poor Papa, when it could have been avoided if +I had been a little more careful before going to bed. On, therefore, the +noise went, for the rest of that night, with great +regularity—slam—slam—slam—defying every attempt to obtain even five +minutes of sleep. With the first gleam of dawn I plainly saw that our +own peccant door was the cause, and I was able by that time, with some +caution, to rise and secure the bolt, and thus relieve ourselves, and +probably our neighbours, from the weary sound.</p> + +<p>Sleep, however, on my part was, under any circumstances, out of the +question, for I was under great anxiety lest Papa should be pitched out +of his berth, as he slept in the one above mine. Before retiring for the +night I had consulted the surgeon on the subject, having heard that a +steward had been once thrown out of his berth in this vessel under +similar circumstances. The surgeon assured me that he had never heard of +such an accident, and Papa reminded me that his height would save him +from such a calamity, for the berths being only six feet long he could, +by stretching himself out to his full length, wedge himself in and hold +on by his head and heels, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_305" id="Page_305">[Pg 305]</a></span> so, in fact, he did; but many passed the +night on the floors in their cabin, particularly the children, who had +not the advantage of being six feet three. Next morning the surgeon said +he would not himself have slept where Papa did, and I suspect few of the +upper berths were occupied. So much for the value of a medical opinion!</p> + +<p>I was very sorry I could not go on deck on either of the following days, +for though the gale had abated, the wind continued sufficiently strong +to keep up a splendid sea. Papa, however, says that it was more the +force of the wind when the gale first began, than the height of the sea +that was remarkable, as the gale did not last long enough to get up a +<i>proper</i> sea, though what that would have been I cannot imagine, as the +effects, such as they were, were sufficiently serious for me. Since +then, things have gone on prosperously, but we have only to-night come +in sight of the lights on Cape Clear. The sea mercifully is somewhat +smoother, and has allowed me to write this long story; and I am going to +bed with a fairer prospect of sleep than I have had for the last few +nights.</p> + +<p><i>Sunday night, Sept. 12th.</i>—The wind got up again in the night, and has +delayed us much, so that we are still outside the bar of the Mersey: +for<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_306" id="Page_306">[Pg 306]</a></span> some hours it has been doubtful whether we should land to-night in +Old England, or pass another night on board. The uncertainty of our fate +has caused an evening of singular excitement, owing to several of the +passengers going perpetually on deck and bringing down news, either that +we were in the act of crossing the bar, or that we had crossed it, or +that all this was wrong and that we were still outside. As often as it +was announced, and that with the most positive assertion, that we should +land to-night, there was great joy and glee among all the passengers, +excepting ourselves and a few others who had visions of a late Custom +House examination in a dark and dismal night with pouring rain, and a +conviction that landing before morning would not bring us to London any +sooner than doing so early to-morrow, and so we secretly hoped all the +time that we were neither on nor over the bar. Betting, as usual, began +on the subject, and the excitement was still at its height when official +information was brought to us that we neither had attempted nor meant to +attempt to cross the bar till five o'clock to-morrow morning. We have +therefore easily made up our minds to what I fear is a disappointment to +many. We trust now to have a quiet night, for we are lying-to, and are +as still as at anchor, and hope on awaking<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_307" id="Page_307">[Pg 307]</a></span> to-morrow morning, to find +ourselves in the dock at Liverpool; in which case we shall rush up by an +early train to London.</p> + +<p>Here, therefore, ends our Journal; but before closing it, I must add a +few lines to say what cause we have had to feel deeply thankful for all +the mercies that have followed us by land and by sea. We have travelled +a distance of nearly 6000 miles, in a country where accidents frequently +occur, both on the railways and in steam-boats, and have never for one +moment been exposed to peril, or experienced one feeling of anxiety. We +have met everywhere with great attention, kindness, and hospitality, and +have been preserved in perfect health. Besides our land and river +journeys, we have made two long voyages across the wide Atlantic, and in +the midst of a tempest, which was a very severe one, the Hand of God +protected us and preserved us from danger, and, better still, kept our +minds in peace and confidence, and in remembrance that He who ruleth the +waves, could guide and succour us in every time of need, so that even I +felt no fear; Papa has had more experience of storms at sea, and was +less likely to feel any, but his confidence, too, was in knowing that we +were under Divine protection, and that our part was to <span class="smcap">TRUST</span>; and in +this we had our reward.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_308" id="Page_308">[Pg 308]</a></span></p> + +<p>In thus enumerating the many subjects of thankfulness during our absence +from home, I must reckon as one of the chief of our blessings, the +comfort we have experienced in so constantly receiving the very best +accounts of you all; and when we think of the many thousands of miles +that have separated us, we may indeed feel full of gratitude that, +neither on one side of the ocean nor the other, have we had any reason +for anxiety concerning each other. In a few hours more, we shall, I +trust, have the joy and gladness of seeing all your dear faces again, +and be rejoicing together over our safe return from our interesting and +delightful expedition to the <span class="smcap">New World</span>.</p> + +<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_14_14" id="Footnote_14_14"></a><a href="#FNanchor_14_14"><span class="label">[14]</span></a> The issues of the British and Foreign Bible Society during +the same period were 1,517,858; but the circulation of the American +Bible Society is almost entirely limited to the American continent, and +for their foreign Missions, while a large portion of ours goes to supply +the Colonies.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_15_15" id="Footnote_15_15"></a><a href="#FNanchor_15_15"><span class="label">[15]</span></a> Aunt Sally is a real person still living at Detroit on +Lake Michigan, with her son, the Rev. Isaac Williams, who is the +minister there of the Methodist church.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_16_16" id="Footnote_16_16"></a><a href="#FNanchor_16_16"><span class="label">[16]</span></a> We must admit that our experience differs greatly from +that of many; and, looking at the statistics of railway travelling, +accidents do occur with frightful frequency. In a report recently +published by the Philadelphia and Reading Railway, the accidents which +occurred on that line alone in 1855, amounted to no less than 179 in a +year, and this on a line where there is no great press of traffic. In +these accidents, 619 cars were broken, 29 people killed, and 7 wounded. +Things are since a little improved; as, last year, 1858, there were only +26 cases of killed and wounded, and, the Report adds, as if consolatory +to the feelings of the natives, "of these 18 were strangers."</p></div> +</div> + +<h3>THE END.</h3> + +<h4>LONDON<br /> +PRINTED BY SPOTTISWOODE AND CO.<br /> +NEW-STREET SQUARE.</h4> + +<hr /> +<h3><a name="A_CATALOGUE" id="A_CATALOGUE"></a>A CATALOGUE</h3> + +<h4>OF</h4> + +<h2>NEW WORKS IN GENERAL LITERATURE</h2> + +<h4>PUBLISHED BY</h4> + +<h3>LONGMAN, BROWN, GREEN, LONGMANS, AND ROBERTS</h3> + +<h4>39 <span class="smcap">Paternoster Row, London</span>.</h4> + +<hr /> +<h2><a name="CLASSIFIED_INDEX" id="CLASSIFIED_INDEX"></a>CLASSIFIED INDEX</h2> + +<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="CLASSIFIED INDEX"> +<tr><th align='left'>Agriculture and Rural Affairs.</th></tr> +<tr><td>Bayldon on Valuing Rents, &c.</td><td align='right'>5</td></tr> +<tr><td>Cecil's Stud Farm</td><td align='right'>8</td></tr> +<tr><td>Hoskyns's Talpa</td><td align='right'>11</td></tr> +<tr><td>Loudon's Agriculture</td><td align='right'>14</td></tr> +<tr><td>Low's Elements of Agriculture</td><td align='right'>14</td></tr> +<tr><td>Morton on Landed Estates</td><td align='right'>17</td></tr> +<tr><td> </td></tr> +<tr><th align='left'>Arts, Manufactures, and Architecture.</th></tr> +<tr><td>Bourne on the Screw Propeller</td><td align='right'>6</td></tr> +<tr><td>Brande's Dictionary of Science, &c.</td><td align='right'>6</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1em;">" Organic Chemistry </span></td><td align='right'>6</td></tr> +<tr><td>Chevreul on Colour</td><td align='right'>8</td></tr> +<tr><td>Cresy's Civil Engineering</td><td align='right'>8</td></tr> +<tr><td>Fairbairn's Information for Engineers</td><td align='right'>9</td></tr> +<tr><td>Gwilt's Encyclopædia of Architecture</td><td align='right'>10</td></tr> +<tr><td>Harford's Plates from M. Angelo</td><td align='right'>10</td></tr> +<tr><td>Humphreys's <i>Parables</i> Illuminated</td><td align='right'>12</td></tr> +<tr><td>Jameson's Sacred and Legendary Art</td><td align='right'>12, 13</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" Commonplace-Book </span></td><td align='right'>13</td></tr> +<tr><td>Konig's Pictorial Life of Luther</td><td align='right'>10</td></tr> +<tr><td>Loudon's Rural Architecture</td><td align='right'>14</td></tr> +<tr><td>Mac Dougall's Campaigns of Hannibal</td><td align='right'>15</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">" Theory of War </span></td><td align='right'>15</td></tr> +<tr><td>Moseley's Engineering</td><td align='right'>17</td></tr> +<tr><td>Piesse's Art of Perfumery</td><td align='right'>18</td></tr> +<tr><td>Richardson's Art of Horsemanship</td><td align='right'>19</td></tr> +<tr><td>Scoffern on Projectiles, &c.</td><td align='right'>20</td></tr> +<tr><td>Scrivenor on the Iron Trade</td><td align='right'>20</td></tr> +<tr><td>Steam Engine, by the Artisan Club</td><td align='right'>6</td></tr> +<tr><td>Ure's Dictionary of Arts, &c.</td><td align='right'>23</td></tr> +<tr><td> </td></tr> +<tr><th align='left'>Biography.</th></tr> +<tr><td>Arago's Lives of Scientific Men</td><td align='right'>5</td></tr> +<tr><td>Brialmont's Wellington</td><td align='right'>6</td></tr> +<tr><td>Bunsen's Hippolytus</td><td align='right'>7</td></tr> +<tr><td>Crosse's (Andrew) Memorials</td><td align='right'>9</td></tr> +<tr><td>Gleig's Essays</td><td align='right'>10</td></tr> +<tr><td>Green's Princesses of England</td><td align='right'>10</td></tr> +<tr><td>Harford's Life of Michael Angelo</td><td align='right'>10</td></tr> +<tr><td>Lardner's Cabinet Cyclopædia</td><td align='right'>13</td></tr> +<tr><td>Maunder's Biographical Treasury</td><td align='right'>15</td></tr> +<tr><td>Mountain's (Col.) Memoirs</td><td align='right'>17</td></tr> +<tr><td>Parry's (Admiral) Memoirs</td><td align='right'>18</td></tr> +<tr><td>Russell's Memoirs of Moore</td><td align='right'>16</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" (Dr.) Life of Mezzofanti </span></td><td align='right'>20</td></tr> +<tr><td>SchimmelPenninck's (Mrs.) Life</td><td align='right'>20</td></tr> +<tr><td>Southey's Life of Wesley</td><td align='right'>21</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" Life and Correspondence </span></td><td align='right'>21</td></tr> +<tr><td>Stephen's Ecclesiastical Biography</td><td align='right'>22</td></tr> +<tr><td>Strickland's Queens of England</td><td align='right'>22</td></tr> +<tr><td>Sydney Smith's Memoirs</td><td align='right'>21</td></tr> +<tr><td>Symonds's (Admiral) Memoirs</td><td align='right'>22</td></tr> +<tr><td>Taylor's Loyola</td><td align='right'>22</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" Wesley</span></td><td align='right'>22</td></tr> +<tr><td>Uwins's Memoirs and Letters</td><td align='right'>23</td></tr> +<tr><td>Waterton's Autobiography and Essays</td><td align='right'>34</td></tr> +<tr><td> </td></tr> +<tr><th align='left'>Books of General Utility.</th></tr> +<tr><td>Acton's Bread-Book</td><td align='right'>5</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1em;">" Cookery-Book</span></td><td align='right'>5</td></tr> +<tr><td>Black's Treatise on Brewing</td><td align='right'>6</td></tr> +<tr><td>Cabinet Gazetteer</td><td align='right'>7</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" Lawyer</span></td><td align='right'>7</td></tr> +<tr><td>Cust's Invalid's Own Book</td><td align='right'>9</td></tr> +<tr><td>Gilbart's Logic for the Million</td><td align='right'>10</td></tr> +<tr><td>Hints on Etiquette</td><td align='right'>11</td></tr> +<tr><td>How to Nurse Sick Children</td><td align='right'>12</td></tr> +<tr><td>Hudson's Executor's Guide</td><td align='right'>12</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1em;">" on Making Wills</span></td><td align='right'>12</td></tr> +<tr><td>Kesteven's Domestic Medicine</td><td align='right'>13</td></tr> +<tr><td>Lardner's Cabinet Cyclopædia</td><td align='right'>13</td></tr> +<tr><td>Loudon's Lady's Country Companion</td><td align='right'>14</td></tr> +<tr><td>Maunder's Treasury of Knowledge</td><td align='right'>15</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" Biographical Treasury</span></td><td align='right'>15</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" Geographical Treasury</span></td><td align='right'>16</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" Scientific Treasury</span></td><td align='right'>15</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" Treasury of History</span></td><td align='right'>16</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" Natural History</span></td><td align='right'>16</td></tr> +<tr><td>Piesse's Art of Perfumery</td><td align='right'>18</td></tr> +<tr><td>Pocket and the Stud</td><td align='right'>10</td></tr> +<tr><td>Pycroft's English Reading</td><td align='right'>19</td></tr> +<tr><td>Reece's Medical Guide</td><td align='right'>19</td></tr> +<tr><td>Rich's Companion to Latin Dictionary</td><td align='right'>19</td></tr> +<tr><td>Richardson's Art of Horsemanship</td><td align='right'>19</td></tr> +<tr><td>Riddle's Latin Dictionaries</td><td align='right'>19</td></tr> +<tr><td>Roget's English Thesaurus</td><td align='right'>20</td></tr> +<tr><td>Rowton's Debater</td><td align='right'>20</td></tr> +<tr><td>Short Whist</td><td align='right'>21</td></tr> +<tr><td>Thomson's Interest Tables</td><td align='right'>22</td></tr> +<tr><td>Webster's Domestic Economy</td><td align='right'>24</td></tr> +<tr><td>West on Children's Diseases</td><td align='right'>24</td></tr> +<tr><td>Willich's Popular Tables</td><td align='right'>24</td></tr> +<tr><td>Wilmot's Blackstone</td><td align='right'>24</td></tr> +<tr><td> </td></tr> +<tr><th align='left'>Botany and Gardening.</th></tr> +<tr><td>Hassall's British Freshwater Algæ</td><td align='right'>11</td></tr> +<tr><td>Hooker's British Flora</td><td align='right'>11</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" Guide to Kew Gardens</span></td><td align='right'>11</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" " Kew Museum</span></td><td align='right'>11</td></tr> +<tr><td>Lindley's Introduction to Botany</td><td align='right'>14</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" Theory of Horticulture </span></td><td align='right'>14</td></tr> +<tr><td>Loudon's Hortus Britannicus</td><td align='right'>14</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" Amateur Gardener</span></td><td align='right'>14</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" Trees and Shrubs</span></td><td align='right'>14</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" Gardening</span></td><td align='right'>14</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" Plants</span></td><td align='right'>14</td></tr> +<tr><td>Pereira's Materia Medica</td><td align='right'>18</td></tr> +<tr><td>Rivers's Rose Amateur's Guide</td><td align='right'>19</td></tr> +<tr><td>Wilson's British Mosses</td><td align='right'>24</td></tr> +<tr><td> </td></tr> +<tr><th align='left'>Chronology.</th></tr> +<tr><td>Blair's Chronological Tables</td><td align='right'>6</td></tr> +<tr><td>Brewer's Historical Atlas</td><td align='right'>6</td></tr> +<tr><td>Bunsen's Ancient Egypt</td><td align='right'>7</td></tr> +<tr><td>Calendars of English State Papers</td><td align='right'>7</td></tr> +<tr><td>Haydn's Beatson's Index</td><td align='right'>11</td></tr> +<tr><td>Jaquemet's Chronology</td><td align='right'>13</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" Abridged Chronology</span></td><td align='right'>13</td></tr> +<tr><td> </td></tr> +<tr><th align='left'>Commerce and Mercantile Affairs.</th></tr> +<tr><td>Gilbart's Treatise on Banking</td><td align='right'>10</td></tr> +<tr><td>Lorimer's Young Master Mariner</td><td align='right'>14</td></tr> +<tr><td>Macleod's Banking</td><td align='right'>15</td></tr> +<tr><td>M'Culloch's Commerce and Navigation</td><td align='right'>15</td></tr> +<tr><td>Murray on French Finance</td><td align='right'>18</td></tr> +<tr><td>Scrivenor on the Iron Trade</td><td align='right'>20</td></tr> +<tr><td>Thomson's Interest Tables</td><td align='right'>22</td></tr> +<tr><td>Tooke's History of Prices</td><td align='right'>22</td></tr> +<tr><td> </td></tr> +<tr><th align='left'>Criticism, History, and Memoirs.</th></tr> +<tr><td>Blair's Chron. and Historical Tables</td><td align='right'>6</td></tr> +<tr><td>Brewer's Historical Atlas</td><td align='right'>6</td></tr> +<tr><td>Bunsen's Ancient Egypt</td><td align='right'>7</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" Hippolytus</span></td><td align='right'>7</td></tr> +<tr><td>Calendars of English State Papers</td><td align='right'>7</td></tr> +<tr><td>Capgrave's Illustrious Henries</td><td align='right'>8</td></tr> +<tr><td>Chapman's Gustavus Adolphus</td><td align='right'>8</td></tr> +<tr><td>Chronicles and Memorials of England</td><td align='right'>8</td></tr> +<tr><td>Connolly's Sappers and Miners</td><td align='right'>8</td></tr> +<tr><td>Conybeare and Howson's St. Paul</td><td align='right'>8</td></tr> +<tr><td>Crowe's History of France</td><td align='right'>9</td></tr> +<tr><td>Fischer's Francis Bacon</td><td align='right'>9</td></tr> +<tr><td>Gleig's Essays</td><td align='right'>10</td></tr> +<tr><td>Gurney's Historical Sketches</td><td align='right'>10</td></tr> +<tr><td>Hayward's Essays</td><td align='right'>11</td></tr> +<tr><td>Herschel's Essays and Addresses</td><td align='right'>11</td></tr> +<tr><td>Jeffrey's (Lord) Contributions</td><td align='right'>13</td></tr> +<tr><td>Kemble's Anglo-Saxons</td><td align='right'>13</td></tr> +<tr><td>Lardner's Cabinet Cyclopædia</td><td align='right'>13</td></tr> +<tr><td>Macaulay's Critical and Hist. Essays</td><td align='right'>14</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" History of England</span></td><td align='right'>14</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" Speeches</span></td><td align='right'>14</td></tr> +<tr><td>Mackintosh's Miscellaneous Works</td><td align='right'>15</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" History of England</span></td><td align='right'>15</td></tr> +<tr><td>M'Culloch's Geographical Dictionary</td><td align='right'>15</td></tr> +<tr><td>Maunder's Treasury of History</td><td align='right'>16</td></tr> +<tr><td>Merivale's History of Rome</td><td align='right'>16</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" Roman Republic</span></td><td align='right'>16</td></tr> +<tr><td>Milner's Church History</td><td align='right'>16</td></tr> +<tr><td>Moore's (Thomas) Memoirs, &c.</td><td align='right'>16</td></tr> +<tr><td>Mure's Greek Literature</td><td align='right'>17</td></tr> +<tr><td>Normanby's Year of Revolution</td><td align='right'>18</td></tr> +<tr><td>Perry's Franks</td><td align='right'>18</td></tr> +<tr><td>Raikes's Journal</td><td align='right'>19</td></tr> +<tr><td>Riddle's Latin Dictionaries</td><td align='right'>19</td></tr> +<tr><td>Rogers's Essays from Edinb. Review</td><td align='right'>20</td></tr> +<tr><td>Roget's English Thesaurus</td><td align='right'>20</td></tr> +<tr><td>Schmitz's History of Greece</td><td align='right'>20</td></tr> +<tr><td>Southey's Doctor</td><td align='right'>21</td></tr> +<tr><td>Stephen's Ecclesiastical Biography</td><td align='right'>22</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" Lectures on French History</span></td><td align='right'>22</td></tr> +<tr><td>Sydney Smith's Works</td><td align='right'>21</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">" Lectures</span></td><td align='right'>21</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 3em;">" Memoirs</span></td><td align='right'>21</td></tr> +<tr><td>Taylor's Loyola</td><td align='right'>22</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" Wesley</span></td><td align='right'>22</td></tr> +<tr><td>Thirlwall's History of Greece</td><td align='right'>22</td></tr> +<tr><td>Thomas's Historical Notes</td><td align='right'>27</td></tr> +<tr><td>Townsend's State Trials</td><td align='right'>22</td></tr> +<tr><td>Turner's Anglo-Saxons</td><td align='right'>23</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" Middle Ages</span></td><td align='right'>23</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" Sacred History of the World</span></td><td align='right'>23</td></tr> +<tr><td>Uwins's Memoirs and Letters</td><td align='right'>23</td></tr> +<tr><td>Vehse's Austrian Court</td><td align='right'>23</td></tr> +<tr><td>Wade's England's Greatness</td><td align='right'>24</td></tr> +<tr><td>Young's Christ of History</td><td align='right'>24</td></tr> +<tr><td> </td></tr> +<tr><th align='left'>Geography and Atlases.</th></tr> +<tr><td>Brewer's Historical Atlas</td><td align='right'>6</td></tr> +<tr><td>Butler's Geography and Atlases</td><td align='right'>7</td></tr> +<tr><td>Cabinet Gazetteer</td><td align='right'>7</td></tr> +<tr><td>Johnston's General Gazetteer</td><td align='right'>13</td></tr> +<tr><td>M'Culloch's Geographical Dictionary</td><td align='right'>16</td></tr> +<tr><td>Maunder's Treasury of Geography</td><td align='right'>16</td></tr> +<tr><td>Murray's Encyclopædia of Geography</td><td align='right'>17</td></tr> +<tr><td>Sharp's British Gazetteer</td><td align='right'>21</td></tr> +<tr><td> </td></tr> +<tr><th align='left'>Juvenile Books.</th></tr> +<tr><td>Amy Herbert</td><td align='right'>20</td></tr> +<tr><td>Cleve Hall</td><td align='right'>20</td></tr> +<tr><td>Earl's Daughter (The)</td><td align='right'>20</td></tr> +<tr><td>Experience of Life</td><td align='right'>20</td></tr> +<tr><td>Gertrude</td><td align='right'>20</td></tr> +<tr><td>Howitt's Boy's Country Book</td><td align='right'>12</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" (Mary) Children's Year</span></td><td align='right'>12</td></tr> +<tr><td>Ivors</td><td align='right'>20</td></tr> +<tr><td>Katharine Ashton</td><td align='right'>20</td></tr> +<tr><td>Laneton Parsonage</td><td align='right'>20</td></tr> +<tr><td>Margaret Percival</td><td align='right'>20</td></tr> +<tr><td>Pycroft's Collegian's Guide</td><td align='right'>19</td></tr> +<tr><td> </td></tr> +<tr><th align='left'>Medicine, Surgery, &c.</th></tr> +<tr><td>Brodie's Psychological Inquiries</td><td align='right'>7</td></tr> +<tr><td>Bull's Hints to Mothers</td><td align='right'>6</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1em;">" Management of Children</span></td><td align='right'>6</td></tr> +<tr><td>Copland's Dictionary of Medicine</td><td align='right'>8</td></tr> +<tr><td>Cust's Invalid's Own Book</td><td align='right'>9</td></tr> +<tr><td>Holland's Mental Physiology</td><td align='right'>11</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" Medical Notes and Reflections</span></td><td align='right'>11</td></tr> +<tr><td>How to Nurse Sick Children</td><td align='right'>12</td></tr> +<tr><td>Kesteven's Domestic Medicine</td><td align='right'>13</td></tr> +<tr><td>Pereira's Materia Medica</td><td align='right'>18</td></tr> +<tr><td>Reece's Medical Guide</td><td align='right'>19</td></tr> +<tr><td>Richardson's Cold-water Cure</td><td align='right'>19</td></tr> +<tr><td>Spencer's Principles of Psychology</td><td align='right'>21</td></tr> +<tr><td>West on Diseases of Infancy</td><td align='right'>24</td></tr> +<tr><td> </td></tr> +<tr><th align='left'>Miscellaneous Literature.</th></tr> +<tr><td>Bacon's (Lord) Works</td><td align='right'>5</td></tr> +<tr><td>Defence of <i>Eclipse of Faith</i></td><td align='right'>9</td></tr> +<tr><td>Eclipse of Faith</td><td align='right'>9</td></tr> +<tr><td>Greathed's Letters from Delhi</td><td align='right'>10</td></tr> +<tr><td>Greyson's Select Correspondence</td><td align='right'>10</td></tr> +<tr><td>Gurney's Evening Recreations</td><td align='right'>10</td></tr> +<tr><td>Hassall's Adulterations Detected, &c.</td><td align='right'>11</td></tr> +<tr><td>Haydn's Book of Dignities</td><td align='right'>11</td></tr> +<tr><td>Holland's Mental Physiology</td><td align='right'>11</td></tr> +<tr><td>Hooker's Kew Guides</td><td align='right'>11</td></tr> +<tr><td>Howitt's Rural Life of England</td><td align='right'>12</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" Visits to Remarkable Places</span></td><td align='right'>12</td></tr> +<tr><td>Jameson's Commonplace-Book</td><td align='right'>13</td></tr> +<tr><td>Jeffrey's (Lord) Contributions</td><td align='right'>13</td></tr> +<tr><td>Last of the Old Squires</td><td align='right'>18</td></tr> +<tr><td>Letters of a Betrothed</td><td align='right'>13</td></tr> +<tr><td>Macaulay's Critical and Hist. Essays</td><td align='right'>14</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 2em;">" Speeches</span></td><td align='right'>14</td></tr> +<tr><td>Mackintosh's Miscellaneous Works</td><td align='right'>15</td></tr> +<tr><td>Martineau's Miscellanies</td><td align='right'>15</td></tr> +<tr><td>Pycroft's English Reading</td><td align='right'>19</td></tr> +<tr><td>Raikes on the Indian Revolt</td><td align='right'>19</td></tr> +<tr><td>Rees's Siege of Lucknow</td><td align='right'>19</td></tr> +<tr><td>Rich's Companion to Latin Dictionary</td><td align='right'>19</td></tr> +<tr><td>Riddle's Latin Dictionaries</td><td align='right'>19</td></tr> +<tr><td>Rowton's Debater</td><td align='right'>20</td></tr> +<tr><td>Seaward's Narrative of his Shipwreck</td><td align='right'>20</td></tr> +<tr><td>Sir Roger De Coverley</td><td align='right'>21</td></tr> +<tr><td>Smith's (Rev. Sydney) Works</td><td align='right'>21</td></tr> +<tr><td>Southey's Doctor, &c.</td><td align='right'>21</td></tr> +<tr><td>Spencer's Essays</td><td align='right'>21</td></tr> +<tr><td>Stephen's Essays</td><td align='right'>22</td></tr> +<tr><td>Stow's Training System</td><td align='right'>22</td></tr> +<tr><td>Thomson's Laws of Thought</td><td align='right'>22</td></tr> +<tr><td>Tighe and Davis's Windsor</td><td align='right'>22</td></tr> +<tr><td>Townsend's State Trials</td><td align='right'>22</td></tr> +<tr><td>Yonge's English-Greek Lexicon</td><td align='right'>24</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1em;">" Latin Gradus</span></td><td align='right'>24</td></tr> +<tr><td>Zumpt's Latin Grammar</td><td align='right'>24</td></tr> +<tr><td> </td></tr> +<tr><th align='left'>Natural History in general.</th></tr> +<tr><td>Catlow's Popular Conchology</td><td align='right'>8</td></tr> +<tr><td>Ephemera's Book of the Salmon</td><td align='right'>9</td></tr> +<tr><td>Garratt's Marvels of Instinct</td><td align='right'>10</td></tr> +<tr><td>Gosse's Natural History of Jamaica</td><td align='right'>10</td></tr> +<tr><td>Kirby and Spence's Entomology</td><td align='right'>13</td></tr> +<tr><td>Lee's Elements of Natural History</td><td align='right'>13</td></tr> +<tr><td>Maunder's Natural History</td><td align='right'>16</td></tr> +<tr><td>Quatrefages' Rambles of a Naturalist</td><td align='right'>19</td></tr> +<tr><td>Turton's Shells of the British Islands</td><td align='right'>23</td></tr> +<tr><td>Van der Hoeven's Handbook of Zoology</td><td align='right'>23</td></tr> +<tr><td>Waterton's Essays on Natural History</td><td align='right'>24</td></tr> +<tr><td>Youatt's The Dog</td><td align='right'>24</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" The Horse</span></td><td align='right'>24</td></tr> +<tr><td> </td></tr> +<tr><th align='left'>One-Volume Encyclopædias and Dictionaries.</th></tr> +<tr><td>Blaine's Rural Sports</td><td align='right'>6</td></tr> +<tr><td>Brande's Science, Literature, and Art</td><td align='right'>6</td></tr> +<tr><td>Copland's Dictionary of Medicine</td><td align='right'>8</td></tr> +<tr><td>Cresy's Civil Engineering</td><td align='right'>8</td></tr> +<tr><td>Gwilt's Architecture</td><td align='right'>10</td></tr> +<tr><td>Johnston's Geographical Dictionary</td><td align='right'>13</td></tr> +<tr><td>Loudon's Agriculture</td><td align='right'>14</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" Rural Architecture</span></td><td align='right'>14</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" Gardening</span></td><td align='right'>14</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" Plants</span></td><td align='right'>14</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" Trees and Shrubs</span></td><td align='right'>14</td></tr> +<tr><td>M'Culloch's Geographical Dictionary</td><td align='right'>15</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 2em;">" Dictionary of Commerce</span></td><td align='right'>15</td></tr> +<tr><td>Murray's Encyclopædia of Geography</td><td align='right'>17</td></tr> +<tr><td>Sharp's British Gazetteer</td><td align='right'>21</td></tr> +<tr><td>Ure's Dictionary of Arts, &c.</td><td align='right'>23</td></tr> +<tr><td>Webster's Domestic Economy</td><td align='right'>24</td></tr> +<tr><td> </td></tr> +<tr><th align='left'>Religious and Moral Works.</th></tr> +<tr><td>Amy Herbert</td><td align='right'>20</td></tr> +<tr><td>Bloomfield's Greek Testament</td><td align='right'>6</td></tr> +<tr><td>Calvert's Wife's Manual</td><td align='right'>8</td></tr> +<tr><td>Cleve Hall</td><td align='right'>20</td></tr> +<tr><td>Conybeare and Howson's St. Paul</td><td align='right'>8</td></tr> +<tr><td>Cotton's Instructions in Christianity</td><td align='right'>8</td></tr> +<tr><td>Dale's Domestic Liturgy</td><td align='right'>9</td></tr> +<tr><td>Defence of <i>Eclipse of Faith</i></td><td align='right'>9</td></tr> +<tr><td>Earl's Daughter (The)</td><td align='right'>20</td></tr> +<tr><td>Eclipse of Faith</td><td align='right'>9</td></tr> +<tr><td>Englishman's Greek Concordance</td><td align='right'>9</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">" Heb. & Chald. Concord.</span></td><td align='right'>9</td></tr> +<tr><td>Experience (The) of Life</td><td align='right'>20</td></tr> +<tr><td>Gertrude</td><td align='right'>20</td></tr> +<tr><td>Harrison's Light of the Forge</td><td align='right'>10</td></tr> +<tr><td>Horne's Introduction to Scriptures</td><td align='right'>11</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1em;">" Abridgment of ditto</span></td><td align='right'>11</td></tr> +<tr><td>Huc's Christianity in China</td><td align='right'>12</td></tr> +<tr><td>Humphrey's <i>Parables</i> Illuminated</td><td align='right'>12</td></tr> +<tr><td>Ivors, by the Author of <i>Amy Herbert</i></td><td align='right'>20</td></tr> +<tr><td>Jameson's Saints and Martyrs</td><td align='right'>12</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" Monastic Legends</span></td><td align='right'>13</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" Legends of the Madonna</span></td><td align='right'>13</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" on Female Employment</span></td><td align='right'>13</td></tr> +<tr><td>Jeremy Taylor's Works</td><td align='right'>13</td></tr> +<tr><td>Katharine Ashton</td><td align='right'>21</td></tr> +<tr><td>Konig's Pictorial Life of Luther</td><td align='right'>10</td></tr> +<tr><td>Laneton Parsonage</td><td align='right'>20</td></tr> +<tr><td>Letters to my Unknown Friends</td><td align='right'>13</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" on Happiness</span></td><td align='right'>13</td></tr> +<tr><td>Lyra Germanica</td><td align='right'>7</td></tr> +<tr><td>Maguire's Rome</td><td align='right'>15</td></tr> +<tr><td>Margaret Percival</td><td align='right'>20</td></tr> +<tr><td>Martineau's Christian Life</td><td align='right'>15</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 2em;">" Hymns</span></td><td align='right'>15</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 2em;">" Studies of Christianity</span></td><td align='right'>15</td></tr> +<tr><td>Merivale's Christian Records</td><td align='right'>16</td></tr> +<tr><td>Milner's Church of Christ</td><td align='right'>26</td></tr> +<tr><td>Moore on the Use of the Body</td><td align='right'>26</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1em;">" " Soul and Body</span></td><td align='right'>26</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1em;">" 's Man and his Motives</span></td><td align='right'>26</td></tr> +<tr><td>Morning Clouds</td><td align='right'>17</td></tr> +<tr><td>Neale's Closing Scene</td><td align='right'>18</td></tr> +<tr><td>Pattison's Earth and Word</td><td align='right'>18</td></tr> +<tr><td>Powell's Christianity without Judaism</td><td align='right'>19</td></tr> +<tr><td>Readings for Lent</td><td align='right'>20</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" Confirmation</span></td><td align='right'>20</td></tr> +<tr><td>Riddle's Household Prayers</td><td align='right'>19</td></tr> +<tr><td>Robinson's Lexicon to the Greek Testament</td><td align='right'>20</td></tr> +<tr><td>Saints our Example</td><td align='right'>20</td></tr> +<tr><td>Sermon in the Mount</td><td align='right'>20</td></tr> +<tr><td>Sinclair's Journey of Life</td><td align='right'>21</td></tr> +<tr><td>Smith's (Sydney) Moral Philosophy</td><td align='right'>21</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1em;">" (G.V.) Assyrian Prophecies</span></td><td align='right'>21</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1em;">" (G.) Wesleyan Methodism</span></td><td align='right'>21</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1em;">" (J.) Shipwreck of St. Paul</span></td><td align='right'>21</td></tr> +<tr><td>Southey's Life of Wesley</td><td align='right'>21</td></tr> +<tr><td>Stephen's Ecclesiastical Biography</td><td align='right'>22</td></tr> +<tr><td>Taylor's Loyola</td><td align='right'>22</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" Wesley</span></td><td align='right'>22</td></tr> +<tr><td>Theologia Germanica</td><td align='right'>7</td></tr> +<tr><td>Thumb Bible (The)</td><td align='right'>22</td></tr> +<tr><td>Turner's Sacred History</td><td align='right'>23</td></tr> +<tr><td>Young's Christ of History</td><td align='right'>24</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1em;">" Mystery</span></td><td align='right'>24</td></tr> +<tr><td> </td></tr> +<tr><th align='left'>Poetry and the Drama.</th></tr> +<tr><td>Aikin's (Dr.) British Poets</td><td align='right'>5</td></tr> +<tr><td>Arnold's Merope</td><td align='right'>5</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" Poems</span></td><td align='right'>5</td></tr> +<tr><td>Baillie's (Joanna) Poetical Works</td><td align='right'>5</td></tr> +<tr><td>Calvert's Wife's Manual</td><td align='right'>8</td></tr> +<tr><td>Goldsmith's Poems, illustrated</td><td align='right'>10</td></tr> +<tr><td>Horace, edited by Yonge</td><td align='right'>24</td></tr> +<tr><td>L. E. L.'s Poetical Works</td><td align='right'>13</td></tr> +<tr><td>Linwood's Anthologia Oxoniensis</td><td align='right'>14</td></tr> +<tr><td>Lyra Germanica</td><td align='right'>7</td></tr> +<tr><td>Macaulay's Laws of Ancient Rome</td><td align='right'>14</td></tr> +<tr><td>MacDonald's Within and Without</td><td align='right'>15</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 2em;">" Poems</span></td><td align='right'>14</td></tr> +<tr><td>Montgomery's Poetical Works</td><td align='right'>26</td></tr> +<tr><td>Moore's Poetical Works</td><td align='right'>26</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1em;">" Selections (illustrated)</span></td><td align='right'>26</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1em;">" Lalla Rookh</span></td><td align='right'>17</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1em;">" Irish Melodies</span></td><td align='right'>17</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1em;">" National Melodies</span></td><td align='right'>17</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1em;">" Sacred Songs (with Music)</span></td><td align='right'>17</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1em;">" Songs and Ballads</span></td><td align='right'>16</td></tr> +<tr><td>Reade's Poetical Works</td><td align='right'>19</td></tr> +<tr><td>Shakspeare, by Bowdler</td><td align='right'>20</td></tr> +<tr><td>Southey's Poetical Works</td><td align='right'>21</td></tr> +<tr><td>Thomson's Seasons, illustrated</td><td align='right'>22</td></tr> +<tr><td> </td></tr> +<tr><th align='left'>Political Economy & Statistics.</th></tr> +<tr><td>Macleod's Political Economy</td><td align='right'>15</td></tr> +<tr><td>M'Culloch's Geog. Statist. &c. Dict.</td><td align='right'>15</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 2em;">" Dictionary of Commerce</span></td><td align='right'>15</td></tr> +<tr><td>Willich's Popular Tables</td><td align='right'>21</td></tr> +<tr><td> </td></tr> +<tr><th align='left'>The Sciences in general and Mathematics.</th></tr> +<tr><td>Arago's Meteorological Essays</td><td align='right'>5</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" Popular Astronomy</span></td><td align='right'>5</td></tr> +<tr><td>Bourne on the Screw Propeller</td><td align='right'>6</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1em;">" 's Catechism of Steam-Engine</span></td><td align='right'>6</td></tr> +<tr><td>Boyd's Naval Cadet's Manual</td><td align='right'>6</td></tr> +<tr><td>Brande's Dictionary of Science, &c.</td><td align='right'>6</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1em;">" Lectures on Organic Chemistry</span></td><td align='right'>6</td></tr> +<tr><td>Cresy's Civil Engineering</td><td align='right'>8</td></tr> +<tr><td>Delabeche's Geology of Cornwall, &c.</td><td align='right'>9</td></tr> +<tr><td>De la Rive's Electricity</td><td align='right'>9</td></tr> +<tr><td>Grove's Correlation of Physical Forces</td><td align='right'>10</td></tr> +<tr><td>Herschel's Outlines of Astronomy</td><td align='right'>11</td></tr> +<tr><td>Holland's Mental Physiology</td><td align='right'>11</td></tr> +<tr><td>Humboldt's Aspects of Nature</td><td align='right'>12</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 2em;">" Cosmos</span></td><td align='right'>12</td></tr> +<tr><td>Hunt on Light</td><td align='right'>12</td></tr> +<tr><td>Lardner's Cabinet Cyclopædia</td><td align='right'>13</td></tr> +<tr><td>Marcet's (Mrs.) Conversations</td><td align='right'>15</td></tr> +<tr><td>Morell's Elements of Psychology</td><td align='right'>17</td></tr> +<tr><td>Moseley's Engineering and Architecture</td><td align='right'>17</td></tr> +<tr><td>Ogilvie's Master-Builder's Plan</td><td align='right'>18</td></tr> +<tr><td>Owen's Lectures on Comp. Anatomy</td><td align='right'>18</td></tr> +<tr><td>Pereira on Polarised Light</td><td align='right'>18</td></tr> +<tr><td>Peschel's Elements of Physics</td><td align='right'>18</td></tr> +<tr><td>Phillips Fossils of Cornwall</td><td align='right'>18</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" Mineralogy</span></td><td align='right'>18</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" Guide to Geology</span></td><td align='right'>18</td></tr> +<tr><td>Portlock's Geology of Londonderry</td><td align='right'>18</td></tr> +<tr><td>Powell's Unity of Worlds</td><td align='right'>19</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" Christianity without Judaism</span></td><td align='right'>19</td></tr> +<tr><td>Smee's Electro-Metallurgy</td><td align='right'>21</td></tr> +<tr><td>Steam-Engine (The)</td><td align='right'>6</td></tr> +<tr><td> </td></tr> +<tr><th align='left'>Rural Sports.</th></tr> +<tr><td>Baker's Rifle and Hound in Ceylon</td><td align='right'>5</td></tr> +<tr><td>Blaine's Dictionary of Sports</td><td align='right'>6</td></tr> +<tr><td>Cecil's Stable Practice</td><td align='right'>8</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1em;">" Stud Farm</span></td><td align='right'>8</td></tr> +<tr><td>Davy's Fishing Excursions, 2 Series</td><td align='right'>9</td></tr> +<tr><td>Ephemera on Angling</td><td align='right'>9</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" Book of the Salmon</span></td><td align='right'>9</td></tr> +<tr><td>Hawker's Young Sportsman</td><td align='right'>11</td></tr> +<tr><td>The Hunting-Field</td><td align='right'>10</td></tr> +<tr><td>Idle's Hints on Shooting</td><td align='right'>12</td></tr> +<tr><td>Pocket and the Stud</td><td align='right'>10</td></tr> +<tr><td>Practical Horsemanship</td><td align='right'>10</td></tr> +<tr><td>Pycroft's Cricket-Field</td><td align='right'>9</td></tr> +<tr><td>Rarey's Horse-Taming</td><td align='right'>19</td></tr> +<tr><td>Richardson's Horsemanship</td><td align='right'>19</td></tr> +<tr><td>Ronalds's Fly-Fisher's Entomology</td><td align='right'>20</td></tr> +<tr><td>Stable Talk and Table Talk</td><td align='right'>10</td></tr> +<tr><td>Stonehenge on the Dog</td><td align='right'>22</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">" " Greyhound</span></td><td align='right'>22</td></tr> +<tr><td>Thacker's Courser's Guide</td><td align='right'>22</td></tr> +<tr><td>The Stud, for Practical Purposes</td><td align='right'>10</td></tr> +<tr><td> </td></tr> +<tr><th align='left'>Veterinary Medicine, &c.</th></tr> +<tr><td>Cecil's Stable Practice</td><td align='right'>8</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1em;">" Stud Farm</span></td><td align='right'>8</td></tr> +<tr><td>Hunting-Field (The)</td><td align='right'>10</td></tr> +<tr><td>Miles's Horse-Shoeing</td><td align='right'>26</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 2em;">" on the Horse's Foot</span></td><td align='right'>26</td></tr> +<tr><td>Pocket and the Stud</td><td align='right'>10</td></tr> +<tr><td>Practical Horsemanship</td><td align='right'>10</td></tr> +<tr><td>Rarey's Horse-Taming</td><td align='right'>19</td></tr> +<tr><td>Richardson's Horsemanship</td><td align='right'>19</td></tr> +<tr><td>Stable Talk and Table Talk</td><td align='right'>10</td></tr> +<tr><td>Stonehenge on the Dog</td><td align='right'>22</td></tr> +<tr><td>Stud (The)</td><td align='right'>10</td></tr> +<tr><td>Youatt's The Dog</td><td align='right'>24</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" The Horse</span></td><td align='right'>24</td></tr> +<tr><td> </td></tr> +<tr><th align='left'>Voyages and Travels.</th></tr> +<tr><td>Baker's Wanderings in Ceylon</td><td align='right'>5</td></tr> +<tr><td>Barth's African Travels</td><td align='right'>5</td></tr> +<tr><td>Burton's East Africa</td><td align='right'>7</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" Medina and Mecca</span></td><td align='right'>7</td></tr> +<tr><td>Davies's Visit to Algiers</td><td align='right'>9</td></tr> +<tr><td>Domenech's Texas and Mexico</td><td align='right'>9</td></tr> +<tr><td>Forester's Sardinia and Corsica</td><td align='right'>10</td></tr> +<tr><td>Hinchliff's Travels in the Alps</td><td align='right'>11</td></tr> +<tr><td>Howitt's Art-Student in Munich</td><td align='right'>12</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 2em;">" (W.) Victoria</span></td><td align='right'>12</td></tr> +<tr><td>Huc's Chinese Empire</td><td align='right'>12</td></tr> +<tr><td>Hudson and Kennedy's Mont Blanc</td><td align='right'>12</td></tr> +<tr><td>Humboldt's Aspects of Nature</td><td align='right'>12</td></tr> +<tr><td>Hutchinson's Western Africa</td><td align='right'>12</td></tr> +<tr><td>M'Clure's North-West Passage</td><td align='right'>18</td></tr> +<tr><td>Mac Dougall's Voyage of the Resolute</td><td align='right'>15</td></tr> +<tr><td>Osborn's Quedah</td><td align='right'>18</td></tr> +<tr><td>Scherzer's Central America</td><td align='right'>20</td></tr> +<tr><td>Seaward's Narrative</td><td align='right'>20</td></tr> +<tr><td>Snow's Tierra del Fuego</td><td align='right'>21</td></tr> +<tr><td>Von Tempsky's Mexico and Guatemala</td><td align='right'>23</td></tr> +<tr><td>Wanderings in the Land of Ham</td><td align='right'>24</td></tr> +<tr><td>Weld's Vacations in Ireland</td><td align='right'>24</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1em;">" United States and Canada</span></td><td align='right'>24</td></tr> +<tr><td> </td></tr> +<tr><th align='left'>Works of Fiction.</th></tr> +<tr><td>Cruikshank's Falstaff</td><td align='right'>9</td></tr> +<tr><td>Heirs of Cheveleigh</td><td align='right'>11</td></tr> +<tr><td>Howitt's Tallangetta</td><td align='right'>12</td></tr> +<tr><td>Moore's Epicurean</td><td align='right'>17</td></tr> +<tr><td>Sir Roger De Coverley</td><td align='right'>21</td></tr> +<tr><td>Sketches (The), Three Tales</td><td align='right'>21</td></tr> +<tr><td>Southey's Doctor, &c.</td><td align='right'>21</td></tr> +<tr><td>Trollope's Barchester Towers</td><td align='right'>22</td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 2em;">" Warden</span></td><td align='right'>22</td></tr> +<tr><td>Ursula</td><td align='right'>20</td></tr> +</table> + +<hr /> +<h3><a name="ALPHABETICAL_CATALOGUE" id="ALPHABETICAL_CATALOGUE"></a>ALPHABETICAL CATALOGUE</h3> + +<h4>of</h4> + +<h2>NEW WORKS and NEW EDITIONS</h2> + +<h4>PUBLISHED BY</h4> + +<h3>LONGMAN, BROWN, GREEN, LONGMANS, & ROBERTS,</h3> + +<h4>PATERNOSTER ROW, LONDON.</h4> + +<hr class='smler' /> + +<p><b>Miss Acton's Modern Cookery for Private Families</b>, reduced to a System of +Easy Practice in a Series of carefully-tested Receipts, in which the +Principles of Baron Liebig and other eminent writers have been as much +as possible applied and explained. Newly-revised and enlarged Edition; +with 8 Plates, comprising 27 Figures, and 150 Woodcuts. Fcp. 8vo. 7s. +6d.</p> + +<p><b>Acton's English Bread-Book for Domestic Use</b>, adapted to Families of +every grade. Fcp. 8vo. price 4s. 6d.</p> + +<p><b>Aikin's Select Works of the British Poets from Ben Jonson to Beattie.</b> +New Edition; with Biographical and Critical Prefaces, and Selections +from recent Poets. 8vo. 18s.</p> + +<p><b>Arago</b> (<b>F.</b>)<b>—Biographies of Distinguished Scientific Men.</b> Translated by +Admiral <span class="smcap">W. H. Smyth</span>, D.C.L., F.R.S., &c.; the <span class="smcap">Rev. Baden Powell</span>, M.A.; +and <span class="smcap">Robert Grant</span>, M.A., F.R.A.S. 8vo. 18s.</p> + +<p><b>Arago's Meteorological Essays.</b> With an Introduction by <span class="smcap">Baron Humboldt</span>. +Translated under the superintendence of Lieut.-Col. <span class="smcap">E. Sabine</span>, R.A., +Treasurer and V.P.R.S. 8vo. 18s.</p> + +<p><b>Arago's Popular Astronomy.</b> Translated and edited by Admiral <span class="smcap">W. H. Smyth</span>, +D.C.L., F.R.S.; and <span class="smcap">Robert Grant</span>, M.A., F.R.A.S. In Two Volumes. Vol. I. +8vo. with Plates and Woodcuts, 21s.—Vol. II. is in the press.</p> + +<p><b>Arnold.—Merope, a Tragedy.</b> By <span class="smcap">Matthew Arnold</span>. With a Preface and an +Historical Introduction. Fcp. 8vo. 5s.</p> + +<p><b>Arnold.—Poems.</b> By <span class="smcap">Matthew Arnold</span>. <span class="smcap">First Series</span>, Third Edition. Fcp. +8vo. 5s. 6d. <span class="smcap">Second Series</span>, price 5s.</p> + +<p><b>Lord Bacon's Works.</b> A New Edition, collected and edited by <span class="smcap">R. L. Ellis</span>, +M.A., Fellow of Trinity College, Cambridge; <span class="smcap">J. Spedding</span>, M.A. of Trinity +College, Cambridge; and <span class="smcap">D. D. Heath</span>, Esq., Barrister-at-Law, and late +Fellow of Trinity College, Cambridge. <span class="smcap">Vols.</span> I. to III. 8vo. 18s. each; +<span class="smcap">Vol.</span> IV. 14s.; and <span class="smcap">Vol.</span> V. 18s. comprising the Division of +<i>Philosophical Works</i>; with a copious <span class="smcap">Index</span>.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Vols.</span> VI. and VII. comprise <span class="smcap">Bacon's</span> <i>Literary and Professional Works</i>. +<span class="smcap">Vol.</span> VI. price 18s. now ready.</p> + +<p><b>Joanna Baillie's Dramatic and Poetical Works:</b> Comprising Plays of the +Passions, Miscellaneous Dramas, Metrical Legends, Fugitive Pieces, and +Ahalya Baee; with the Life of Joanna Baille, Portrait and Vignette. +Square crown 8vo. 21s. cloth; or 42s. morocco.</p> + +<p><b>Baker.—The Rifle and the Hound in Ceylon.</b> By <span class="smcap">S. W. Baker</span>, Esq. New +Edition, with 13 Illustrations engraved on Wood. Fcp. 8vo. 4s. 6d.</p> + +<p><b>Baker.—Eight Years' Wanderings in Ceylon.</b> By <span class="smcap">S. W. Baker</span>, Esq. With 6 +coloured Plates. 8vo. 15s.</p> + +<p><b>Barth.—Travels and Discoveries in North and Central Africa:</b> Being the +Journal of an Expedition undertaken under the auspices of Her Britannic +Majesty's Government in the Years 1849-1855. By <span class="smcap">Henry Barth</span>, Ph.D., +D.C.L., &c. With numerous Maps and Illustrations. 5 vols. 8vo. £5. 5s. +cloth.</p> + +<p><b>Bayldon's Art of Valuing Rents and Tillages,</b> and Claims of Tenants upon +Quitting Farms, at both Michaelmas and Lady-day; as revised by Mr. +<span class="smcap">Donaldson</span>. <i>Seventh Edition</i>, enlarged and adapted to the Present Time. +By <span class="smcap">Robert Baker</span>, Land Agent and Valuer. 8vo. price 10s. 6d.</p> + +<p><b>Black's Practical Treatise on Brewing,</b> based on Chemical and Economical +Principles. With Formulæ for Public Brewers, and Instructions for +Private Families. 8vo. 10s. 6d.</p> + +<p><b>Blaine's Encyclopædia of Rural Sports;</b> or, a complete Account, +Historical, Practical, and Descriptive, of Hunting, Shooting, Fishing, +Racing, &c. <i>New Edition</i>, revised and corrected to the Present Time; +with above 600 Woodcut Illustrations, including 20 Subjects now added +from Designs by John Leech.</p> + +<p><b>Blair's Chronological and Historical Tables, from the Creation to the +Present Time:</b> With Additions and Corrections from the most authentic +Writers; including the Computation of St. Paul, as connecting the Period +from the Exode to the Temple. Under the revision of Sir <span class="smcap">Henry Ellis</span>, +K.H. Imperial 8vo. 31s. 6d. half-morocco.</p> + +<p><b>Boyd.—A Manual for Naval Cadets.</b> Published with the sanction and +approval of the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty. By <span class="smcap">John M'Neill +Boyd</span>, Captain, R.N. With Compass-Signals in Colours, and 236 Woodcuts. +Fcp. 8vo. 10s. 6d.</p> + +<p><b>Bloomfield.—The Greek Testament:</b> with copious English Notes, Critical, +Philological, and Explanatory. Especially adapted to the use of +Theological Students and Ministers. By the Rev. <span class="smcap">S. T. Bloomfield</span>, D.D., +F.S.A. Ninth Edition, revised. 2 vols. 8vo. with Map, £2. 8s.</p> + +<p><b>Dr. Bloomfield's College & School Edition of the Greek Testament:</b> With +brief English Notes, chiefly Philological and Explanatory. Seventh +Edition; with Map and Index. Fcp. 8vo. 7s. 6d.</p> + +<p><b>Dr. Bloomfield's College & School Lexicon to the Greek Testament.</b> New +Edition, revised. Fcp. 8vo. price 10s. 6d.</p> + +<p><b>Bourne's Catechism of the Steam Engine in its various Applications to +Mines, Mills, Steam Navigation, Railways, and Agriculture:</b> With +Practical Instructions for the Manufacture and Management of Engines of +every class. Fourth Edition, enlarged; with 89 Woodcuts. Fcp. 8vo. 6s.</p> + +<p><b>Bourne.—A Treatise on the Steam Engine, in its Application to Mines, +Mills, Steam Navigation, and Railways.</b> By the Artisan Club. Edited by +<span class="smcap">John Bourne</span>, C.E. New Edition; with 33 Steel Plates, and 349 Wood +Engraving. 4to. 27s.</p> + +<p><b>Bourne.—A Treatise on the Screw Propeller:</b> With various Suggestions of +Improvement. By <span class="smcap">John Bourne</span>, C.E. New Edition, with 20 large Plates and +numerous Wood Engravings. 4to. 38s.</p> + +<p><b>Brande's Dictionary of Science, Literature, and Art;</b> comprising the +History, Description, and Scientific Principles of every Branch of Human +Knowledge; with the Derivation and Definition of all the Terms in +general use. 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Edited by the Author's Son. +Royal 4to. 24s.</p> + +<p><b>Burton.—First Footsteps in East Africa;</b> or, an Exploration of Harar. By +<span class="smcap">Richard F. Burton</span>, Captain, Bombay Army. With Maps and coloured Plate. +8vo. 18s.</p> + +<p><b>Burton.—Personal Narrative of a Pilgrimage to El Medinah and Meccah.</b> By +<span class="smcap">Richard F. Burton</span>, Captain, Bombay Army. <i>Second Edition</i>, revised; with +coloured Plates and Woodcuts. 2 vols. crown 8vo. 24s.</p> + +<p><b>The Cabinet Lawyer: A Popular Digest of the Laws of England, Civil and +Criminal, with a Dictionary of Law Terms, Maxims, Statutes, and Judicial +Antiquities;</b> Correct Tables of Assessed Taxes, Stamp Duties, Excise +Licenses, and Post-Horse Duties; Post-Office Regulations; and Prison +Discipline. 17th Edition, comprising the Public Acts of the Session +1858. Fcp. 8vo. 10s. 6d.</p> + +<p><b>The Cabinet Gazetteer:</b> A Popular Exposition of All the Countries of the +World. By the Author of <i>The Cabinet Lawyer</i>. Fcp. 8vo. 10s. 6d.</p> + +<p><b>Calendars of State Papers, Domestic Series</b>, published under the +Direction of the Master of the Rolls, and with the Sanction of H.M. +Secretary of State for the Home Department:</p> + +<p>The Reign of JAMES I. 1603-23, edited by Mrs. <span class="smcap">Green</span>. <span class="smcap">Vols.</span> I. to III. +imperial 8vo. 15s. each.</p> + +<p>The Reign of CHARLES I. 1625-26, edited by <span class="smcap">John Bruce</span>, V.P.S.A. Imperial +8vo. 15s.</p> + +<p>The Reigns of EDWARD VI., MARY, ELIZABETH, 1547-80, edited by <span class="smcap">R. Lemon</span>, +Esq. Imperial 8vo. 15s.</p> + +<p>Historical Notes relative to the History of England, from the Accession +of HENRY VIII. to the Death of ANNE (1509-1714), compiled by <span class="smcap">F. S. +Thomas</span>, Esq. 3 vols. imperial 8vo. 40s.</p> + +<p>State Papers relating to SCOTLAND, from the Reign of HENRY VIII. to the +Accession of JAMES I. (1509-16??), and of the Correspondence relating to +MARY QUEEN of SCOTS, during her Captivity in England, edited by <span class="smcap">M. J. +Thorpe</span>, Esq. 2 vols. imperial 8vo. 30s.</p> + +<p><b>Calvert.—The Wife's Manual;</b> or, Prayers, Thoughts, and Songs on Several +Occasions of a Matron's Life. By the Rev. W. <span class="smcap">Calvert</span>, M.A. Ornamented +from Designs by the Author in the style of <i>Queen Elizabeth's +Prayer-Book</i>. Crown 8vo. 10s. 6d.</p> + +<p><b>Catlow's Popular Conchology;</b> or, the Shell Cabinet arranged according to +the Modern System: With a detailed Account of the Animals, and a +complete Descriptive List of the Families and Genera of Recent and +Fossil Shells. Second Edition, improved; with 405 Woodcuts. Post 8vo. +14s.</p> + +<p><b>Cecil.—The Stud Farm;</b> or, Hints on Breeding Horses for the Turf, the +Chase, and the Road. Addressed to Breeders of Race-Horses and Hunters, +Landed Proprietors, and Tenant Farmers. By <span class="smcap">Cecil</span>. Fcp. 8vo. 5s.</p> + +<p><b>Cecil's Stable Practice;</b> or, Hints on Training for the Turf, the Chase, +and the Road; with Observations on Racing and Hunting, Wasting, +Race-Riding, and Handicapping: Addressed to all who are concerned in +Racing, Steeple-Chasing, and Fox-Hunting. Fcp. 8vo. with Plate, 5s.</p> + +<p><b>Chronicles and Memorials of Great Britain and Ireland during the Middle +Ages</b>, published by the authority of H. M. Treasury under the Direction +of the Master of the Rolls:—</p> + +<p>Capgrave's Chronicle of England, edited by the Rev. F. C. <span class="smcap">Hingeston</span>, +M.A. Royal 8vo. 8s. 6d.</p> + +<p>Chronicon Monasterli de Abingdon, edited by the Rev. J. <span class="smcap">Stevenson</span>, M.A. +<span class="smcap">Vol</span>. I. royal 8vo. 8s. 6d.</p> + +<p>Lives of Edward the Confessor, edited by the Rev. H. R. <span class="smcap">Luard</span>, M.A. 8s. +6d.</p> + +<p>Monumenta Franciscana, edited by the Rev. J. S. <span class="smcap">Brewer</span>, M. A. 8s. 6d.</p> + +<p>Fasciculi Zizaniorum Magistri Johannis Wyclif cum Tritico, edited by the +Rev. W. W. <span class="smcap">Shirley</span>, M.A. 8s. 6d.</p> + +<p>Stewart's Buik of the Croniclis of Scotland, edited by W. B. <span class="smcap">Turnbull</span>, +Barrister. <span class="smcap">Vol.</span> I. royal 8vo. 8s. 6d.</p> + +<p>Johannis Capgrave Liber de Illustribus Henricis, edited by the Rev. F. +C. <span class="smcap">Hingeston</span>, M.A. Royal 8vo. 8s. 6d.</p> + +<p>English Translation of Capgrave's <i>Book of the Illustrious Henries</i>, by +the Rev. F. C. <span class="smcap">Hingeston</span>, M.A. 10s. 6d.</p> + +<p>Elmham's Historia de Monasterii S. Augustini Cantuarensis, edited by the +Rev. C. <span class="smcap">Hardwicke</span>, M.A. 8s. 6d.</p> + +<p><b>Chapman.—History of Gustavus Adolphus, and of the Thirty Years' War up +to the King's Death:</b> With some Account of its Conclusion by the Peace of +Westphalia, in 1648. By B. <span class="smcap">Chapman</span>, M.A. 8vo. Plans, 12s. 6d.</p> + +<p><b>Chevreul On the Harmony and Contrast of Colours and their Applications +to the Arts:</b> Including Painting, Interior Decoration, Tapestries, +Carpets, Mosaics, Coloured Glazing, Paper-Staining, Calico-Printing, +Letterpress-Printing, Map-Colouring, Dress, Landscape and +Flower-Gardening, &c. &c. Translated by <span class="smcap">Charles Martel</span>. With 4 Plates. +Crown 8vo. 10s. 6d.</p> + +<p><b>Connolly.—History of the Royal Sappers and Miners:</b> Including the +Services of the Corps in the Crimea and at the Siege of Sebastopol. By +T. W. J. <span class="smcap">Connolly</span>, Quartermaster of the Royal Engineers. <i>Second +Edition</i>; with 17 coloured Plates. 2 vols. 8vo. 30s.</p> + +<p><b>Conybeare and Howson's Life and Epistles of Saint Paul;</b> Comprising a +complete Biography of the Apostle, and a Translation of his Epistles +inserted in Chronological Order. <i>Third Edition</i>, revised and corrected; +with several Maps and Woodcuts, and 4 Plates. 2 vols. square crown 8vo. +31s. 6d.</p> + +<p>*** The Original Edition, with more numerous Illustrations, in +2 vols. 4to. price 48s.—may also be had.</p> + +<p><b>Dr. Copland's Dictionary of Practical Medicine:</b> Comprising General +Pathology, the Nature and Treatment of Diseases, Morbid Structures, and +the Disorders especially incidental to Climates, to Sex, and to the +different Epochs of Life; with numerous approved Formulæ of the +Medicines recommended. Now complete in 3 vols. 8vo. price £5. 11s. +cloth.</p> + +<p><b>Bishop Cotton's Instructions in the Doctrine and Practice of +Christianity.</b> Intended as an Introduction to Confirmation, 4th Edition. +18mo. 2s. 6d.</p> + +<p><b>Cresy's Encyclopædia of Civil Engineering, Historical, Theoretical, and +Practical.</b> Illustrated by upwards of 3,000 Woodcuts. <i>Second Edition</i>, +revised; and extended in a Supplement, comprising Metropolitan +Water-Supply, Drainage of Towns, Railways, Cubical Proportion, Brick and +Iron Construction, Iron Screw Piles, Tubular Bridges, &c. 8vo. 68s.</p> + +<p><b>Crosse.—Memorials, Scientific and Literary, of Andrew Crosse, the +Electrician.</b> Edited by Mrs. <span class="smcap">Crosse</span>. Post 8vo. 9s. 6d.</p> + +<p><b>Crowe.—The History of France.</b> By <span class="smcap">Eyre Evans Crowe</span>. In Five Volumes. +<span class="smcap">Vol.</span> I. 8vo. 14s.</p> + +<p><b>Cruikshank.—The Life of Sir John Falstaff</b>, illustrated in a Series of +Twenty-four original Etchings by George Cruikshank. Accompanied by an +imaginary Biography of the Knight, by <span class="smcap">Robert B. Brough</span>. Royal 8vo. price +12s. 6d. cloth.</p> + +<p><b>Lady Cust's Invalid's Own Book:</b> A Collection of Recipes from various +Books and various Countries. <i>Second Edition.</i> Fcp. 8vo. 2s. 6d.</p> + +<p><b>The Rev. Canon Dale's Domestic Liturgy and Family Chaplain, in Two +Parts:</b> <span class="smcap">Part</span> I. Church Services adapted for Domestic Use, with Prayers +for Every Day of the Week, selected from the Book of Common Prayer; <span class="smcap">Part</span> +II. an appropriate Sermon for Every Sunday in the Year. Second Edition. +Post 4to. 21s. cloth; 31s. 6d. calf; or £2. 10s. morocco. {<span class="smcap">The Family +Chaplain</span>, 12s. Separately: {<span class="smcap">The Domestic Liturgy</span>, 10<i>s</i>.6<i>d</i>.</p> + +<p><b>Davies.—Algiers in 1857:</b> Its Accessibility, Climate, and Resources +described with especial reference to English Invalids; with details of +Recreation obtainable in its Neighbourhood added for the use of +Travellers in general. By the Rev. E. W. L. <span class="smcap">Davies</span>, M.A. Oxon. Post 8vo. +6s.</p> + +<p><b>Delabeche.—Report on the Geology of Cornwall, Devon, and West Somerset.</b> +By Sir H. T. <span class="smcap">Delabeche</span>, F.R.S. With Maps, Plates, and Woodcuts. 8vo. +14s.</p> + +<p><b>Davy (Dr. J.)—The Angler and his Friend;</b> or, Piscatory Colloquies and +Fishing Excursions. By <span class="smcap">John Davy</span>, M.D., F.R.S., &c. Fcp. 8vo. 6s.</p> + +<p><i>By the same Author</i>,</p> + +<p><b>The Angler in the Lake District;</b> or, Piscatory Colloquies and Fishing +Excursions in Westmoreland and Cumberland. Fcp. 8vo. 6s. 6d.</p> + +<p><b>De la Rive's Treatise on Electricity in Theory and Practice.</b> Translated +for the Author by C. V. <span class="smcap">Walker</span>, F.R.S. 3 vols. 8vo. Woodcuts, £3. 13s.</p> + +<p><b>Abbé Domenech's Missionary Adventures in Texas and Mexico:</b> A Personal +Narrative of Six Years' Sojourn in those Regions. Translated from the +French under the Author's superintendence. 8vo. 10s. 6d.</p> + +<p><b>The Eclipse of Faith;</b> or, a Visit to a Religious Sceptic. <i>9th Edition.</i> +Fcp. 8vo. 5s.</p> + +<p><b>Defence of The Eclipse of Faith, by its Author:</b> Being a Rejoinder to +Professor Newman's <i>Reply</i>: Including a full Examination of that +Writer's Criticism on the Character of Christ; and a Chapter on the +Aspects and Pretensions of Modern Deism. <i>Second Edition</i>, revised. Post +8vo. 5s. 6d.</p> + +<p><b>The Englishman's Greek Concordance of the New Testament:</b> Being an +Attempt at a Verbal Connexion between the Greek and the English Texts; +including a Concordance to the Proper Names, with Indexes, Greek-English +and English-Greek. New Edition, with a new Index. Royal 8vo. 42s.</p> + +<p><b>The Englishman's Hebrew and Chaldee Concordance of the Old Testament:</b> +Being an Attempt at a Verbal Connexion between the Original and the +English Translations; with Indexes, a List of the Proper Names and their +Occurrences, &c. 2 vols. royal 8vo. £3. 13s. 6d.; large paper, £4. 14s. +6d.</p> + +<p><b>Ephemera's Handbook of Angling;</b> teaching Fly-fishing, Trolling, +Bottom-Fishing, Salmon-Fishing: With the Natural History of River-Fish, +and the best Modes of Catching them. Third Edition, corrected and +improved; with Woodcuts. Fcp. 8vo. 5s.</p> + +<p><b>Ephemera's Book of the Salmon:</b> The Theory, Principles, and Practice of +Fly-Fishing for Salmon; Lists of good Salmon Flies for every good River +in the Empire; the Natural History of the Salmon, its Habits described, +and the best way of artificially Breeding it. Fcp. 8vo. with coloured +Plates, 14s.</p> + +<p><b>Fairbairn.—Useful Information for Engineers:</b> Being a Series of Lectures +delivered to the Working Engineers of Yorkshire and Lancashire. By +<span class="smcap">William Fairbairn</span>, F.R.S., F.G.S. <i>Second Edition</i>; with Plates and +Woodcuts. Crown 8vo. 10s. 6d.</p> + +<p><b>Fischer.—Francis Bacon of Verulam:</b> Realistic Philosophy and its Age. By +Dr. K. <span class="smcap">Fischer</span>. Translated by <span class="smcap">John Oxenford</span>. Post 8vo. 9s. 6d.</p> + +<p><b>Forester.—Rambles in the Islands of Corsica and Sardinia:</b> With Notices +of their History, Antiquities, and present Condition. By <span class="smcap">Thomas +Forester</span>. With coloured Map; and numerous Lithographic and Woodcut +Illustrations from Drawings made during the Tour by Lieut.-Col. M. A. +Biddulph, R.A. Imperial 8vo. 28s.</p> + +<p><b>Garratt.—Marvels and Mysteries of Instinct;</b> or, Curiosities of Animal +Life. By <span class="smcap">George Garratt</span>. <i>Second Edition</i>, improved. Fcp. 8vo. 4s. 6d.</p> + +<p><b>Gilbart.—A Practical Treatise on Banking.</b> By <span class="smcap">James William Gilbart</span>, +F.R.S., General Manager of the London and Westminster Bank. <i>Sixth +Edition</i>. 2 vols. 12mo. 16s.</p> + +<p><b>Gilbart.—Logic for the Million:</b> a Familiar Exposition of the Art of +Reasoning, By <span class="smcap">J. W. Gilbart</span>, F.R.S. 5th Edition; with Portrait. 12mo. +3s. 6d.</p> + +<p><b>Gleig.—Essays, Biographical, Historical, and Miscellaneous</b>, contributed +chiefly to the <i>Edinburgh</i> and <i>Quarterly Reviews</i>. By the Rev. <span class="smcap">G. R. +Gleig</span>, M.A., Chaplain-General to the Forces, and Prebendary of St. +Paul's. 2 vols. 8vo. price 21s.</p> + +<p><b>The Poetical Works of Oliver Goldsmith.</b> Edited by <span class="smcap">Bolton Corney</span>, Esq. +Illustrated by Wood Engravings, from Designs by Members of the Etching +Club. Square crown 8vo. cloth, 21s.; morocco, £1. 16s.</p> + +<p><b>Gosse.—A Naturalist's Sojourn in Jamaica.</b> By <span class="smcap">P. H. Gosse</span>, Esq. With +Plates. Post 8vo. 14s.</p> + +<p><b>Greathed.—Letters from Delhi during the Siege.</b> By <span class="smcap">H. H. Greathed</span>, Esq., +Political Agent. Post 8vo.</p> + +<p><b>Green.—Lives of the Princesses of England.</b> By Mrs. <span class="smcap">Mary Anne Everett +Green</span>, Editor of the <i>Letters Of Royal and Illustrious Ladies</i>. With +numerous Portraits. Complete in 6 vols. post 8vo. 10s. 6d. each.</p> + +<p><b>Greyson.—Selections from the Correspondence of <span class="smcap">R. E. Greyson</span>, Esq.</b> +Edited by the Author of <i>The Eclipse of Faith</i>. New Edition. Crown 8vo. +7s. 6d.</p> + +<p><b>Grove.—The Correlation of Physical Forces.</b> By <span class="smcap">W. R. Grove</span>, Q.C., M.A. +<i>Third Edition</i>. 8vo. 7s.</p> + +<p><b>Gurney.—St. Louis and Henri IV.:</b> Being a Second Series of Historical +Sketches. By the Rev. <span class="smcap">John H. Gurney</span>, M.A. Fcp. 8vo. 6s.</p> + +<p><b>Evening Recreations;</b> or, Samples from the Lecture-Room. Edited by Rev. +<span class="smcap">J. H. Gurney</span>. Crown 8vo. 5s.</p> + +<p><b>Gwilt's Encyclopædia of Architecture, Historical, Theoretical, and +Practical.</b> By <span class="smcap">Joseph Gwilt</span>. With more than 1,000 Wood Engravings, from +Designs by <span class="smcap">J. S. Gwilt</span>. 8vo. 42s.</p> + +<p><b>Hare (Archdeacon).—The Life of Luther, in Forty-eight Historical +Engravings.</b> By <span class="smcap">Gustav König</span>. With Explanations by Archdeacon <span class="smcap">Hare</span> and +<span class="smcap">Susannah Winkworth</span>. Fcp. 4to. 28s.</p> + +<p><b>Harford.—Life of Michael Angelo Buonarroti:</b> With Translations of many +of his Poems and Letters; also Memoirs of Savonarola, Raphael, and +Vittoria Colonna. By <span class="smcap">John S. Harford</span>, Esq., D.C.L., F.R.S. Second +Edition, revised; with 20 Plates. 2 vols. 8vo. 25s.</p> + +<p><b>Illustrations, Architectural and Pictorical, of the Genius of Michael +Angelo Buonarroti.</b> With Descriptions of the Plates, by the Commendatore +<span class="smcap">Canina</span>; <span class="smcap">C. R. Cockerell</span>, Esq., R.A.; and <span class="smcap">J. S. Harford</span>, Esq., D.C.L., +F.R.S. Folio, 73s. 6d. half-bound.</p> + +<p><b>Harrison.—The Light of the Forge;</b> or, Counsels from the Sick-Bed of E. +M. By the Rev. <span class="smcap">W. Harrison</span>, M.A., Domestic Chaplain to the Duchess of +Cambridge. Fcp. 8vo. 5s.</p> + +<p><b>Harry Hieover's Stable Talk and Table Talk;</b> or, Spectacles for Young +Sportsmen. New Edition. 2 vols. 8vo. Portrait, 24s.</p> + +<p><b>Harry Hieover.—The Hunting-Field.</b> By <span class="smcap">Harry Hieover</span>. With Two Plates. +Fcp. 8vo. 5s. half-bound.</p> + +<p><b>Harry Hieover.—Practical Horsemanship.</b> <i>Second Edition</i>; with 2 Plates. +Fcp. 8vo. 5s. half-bound.</p> + +<p><b>Harry Hieover.—The Pocket and the Stud;</b> or, Practical Hints on the +Management of the Stable. By <span class="smcap">Harry Hieover</span>. Fcp. 8vo. Portrait, 6s.</p> + +<p><b>Harry Hieover.—The Stud, for Practical Purposes and Practical Men:</b> +Being a Guide to the Choice of a Horse for use more than for show. Fcp. +5s.</p> + +<p><b>Hassall.—A History of the British Freshwater Algæ:</b> Including +Descriptions of the Desmideæ and Diatomaceæ. By <span class="smcap">Arthur Hill Hassall</span>, +M.D. 2 vols. 8vo. With 103 Plates, £1. 15s.</p> + +<p><b>Hassall.—Adulterations Detected;</b> or, Plain Instructions for the +Discovery of Frauds in Food and Medicine. By <span class="smcap">Arthur Hill Hassall</span>, M.D. +Lond., Analyst of <i>The Lancet</i> Sanitary Commission, and Author of the +Reports of that Commission published under the title of <i>Food and its +Adulterations</i> (which may also be had, in 8vo. price 28s.) With 225 +Illustrations, engraved on Wood. Crown 8vo. 17s. 6d.</p> + +<p><b>Col. Hawker's Instructions to Young Sportsmen in all that relates to +Guns and Shooting.</b> 10th Edition, revised by the Author's Son, Major <span class="smcap">P. +W. L. Hawker</span>. With Portrait, Plates, and Woodcuts. 8vo. 21s.</p> + +<p><b>Haydn's Book of Dignities:</b> Containing Rolls of the Official Personages +of the British Empire, Civil, Ecclesiastical, Judicial, Military, Naval, +and Municipal, from the Earliest Periods to the Present Time. Together +with the Sovereigns of Europe, from the Foundation of their respective +States; the Peerage and Nobility of Great Britain, &c. 8vo. 25s.</p> + +<p><b>Hayward.—Biographical and Critical Essays</b>, reprinted from Reviews, with +Additions and Corrections. By <span class="smcap">A. Hayward</span>, Esq., Q.C. 2 vols. 8vo. 24s.</p> + +<p><b>The Heirs of Cheveleigh:</b> A Novel. By <span class="smcap">Gervaise Abbott</span>. 3 vols. post 8vo. +31s. 6d.</p> + +<p><b>Sir John Herschel's Outlines of Astronomy.</b> Fifth Edition, revised and +corrected to the existing state of astronomical knowledge; with Plates +and Woodcuts. 8vo. 18s.</p> + +<p><b>Sir John Herschel's Essays from the <i>Edinburgh</i> and <i>Quarterly Reviews</i></b>, +with Addresses and other Pieces. 8vo. 18s.</p> + +<p><b>Hinchliff.—Summer Months among the Alps:</b> With the Ascent of Monte Rosa. +By <span class="smcap">Thos. W. Hinchliff</span>, Barrister-at-Law. Post 8vo. 10s. 6d.</p> + +<p><b>Hints on Etiquette and the Usages of Society:</b> With a Glance at Bad +Habits. New Edition, revised (with Additions) by a Lady of Rank. Fcp. +8vo. 2s. 6d.</p> + +<p><b>Holland.—Medical Notes and Reflections.</b> By Sir <span class="smcap">Henry Holland</span>, M.D., +F.R.S., &c., Physician in Ordinary to the Queen and Prince-Consort. +Third Edition. 8vo. 18s.</p> + +<p><b>Holland.—Chapters on Mental Physiology.</b> By Sir <span class="smcap">Henry Holland</span>, Bart., +F.R.S., &c. Founded chiefly on Chapters contained in <i>Medical Notes and +Reflections</i> by the same Author. Second Edition. Post 8vo. 8s. 6d.</p> + +<p><b>Hooker.—Kew Gardens;</b> or, a Popular Guide to the Royal Botanic Gardens +of Kew. By Sir <span class="smcap">William Jackson Hooker</span>, K.H., &c., Director. With many +Woodcuts. 16mo. 6d.</p> + +<p><b>Hooker's Museum of Economic Botany;</b> or, Popular Guide to the Useful and +Remarkable Vegetable Products of the Museum in the Royal Gardens of Kew. +16mo. 1s.</p> + +<p><b>Hooker and Arnott's British Flora;</b> comprising the Phænogamous or +Flowering Plants, and the Ferns. Seventh Edition, with Additions and +Corrections; and numerous Figures illustrative of the Umbelliferous +Plants, the Composite Plants, the Grasses, and the Ferns. 12mo. with 12 +Plates, 14s.; with the Plates coloured, 21s.</p> + +<p><b>Horne's Introduction to the Critical Study and Knowledge of the Holy +Scriptures.</b> <i>Tenth Edition</i>, revised, corrected, and brought down to the +present time. Edited by the Rev. <span class="smcap">T. Hartwell Horne</span>, B.D. (the Author); +the Rev. <span class="smcap">Samuel Davidson</span>, D.D. of the University of Halle, and LL.D.; +and <span class="smcap">S. Prideaux Tregelles</span>, LL.D. With 4 Maps and 22 Vignettes and +Facsimiles. 4 vols. 8vo. £3. 13s. 6d.</p> + +<p><b>Horne.—A Compendious Introduction to the Study of the Bible.</b> By the +Rev. <span class="smcap">T. Hartwell Horne</span>, B.D. New Edition, with Maps, &c. 12mo. 9s.</p> + +<p><b>Hoskyns.—Talpa; or, the Chronicles of a Clay Farm:</b> An Agricultural +Fragment. By <span class="smcap">Chandos Wren Hoskyns</span>, Esq. Fourth Edition. With 24 Woodcuts +from Designs by <span class="smcap">George Cruikshank</span>. 16mo. 5s. 6d.</p> + +<p><b>How to Nurse Sick Children:</b> Intended especially as a Help to the Nurses +in the Hospital for Sick Children; but containing Directions of service +to all who have the charge of the Young. Fcp. 8vo. 1s. 6d.</p> + +<p><b>Howitt (A. M.)—An Art-Student in Munich.</b> By <span class="smcap">Anna Mary Howitt</span>. 2 vols. +post 8vo. 14s.</p> + +<p><b>Howitt.—The Children's Year.</b> By <span class="smcap">Mary Howitt</span>. With Four Illustrations. +Square 16mo. 5s.</p> + +<p><b>Howitt.—Tallangetta, the Squatter's Home:</b> A Story of Australian Life. +By <span class="smcap">William Howitt</span>. 2 vols. post 8vo. 18s.</p> + +<p><b>Howitt.—Land, Labour, and Gold;</b> or, Two Years in Victoria: With Visit +to Sydney and Van Diemen's Land. By <span class="smcap">William Howitt</span>. Second Edition. 2 +vols. crown 8vo. 10s.</p> + +<p><b>W. Howitt's Visits to Remarkable Places:</b> Old Halls, Battle-Fields, and +Scenes illustrative of Striking Passages in English History and Poetry. +With about 80 Wood Engravings. <i>New Edition</i>. 2 vols. square crown 8vo. +25s.</p> + +<p><b>William Howitt's Boy's Country Book:</b> Being the Real Life of a Country +Boy, written by himself; exhibiting all the Amusements, Pleasures, and +Pursuits of Children in the Country. With 40 Woodcuts. Fcp. 8vo. 6s.</p> + +<p><b>William Howitt's Rural Life of England.</b> With Woodcuts by Bewick and +Williams. Medium 8vo. 21s.</p> + +<p><b>Huc.—Christianity in China, Tartary, and Thibet.</b> By M. l'Abbé <span class="smcap">Huc</span>, +formerly Missionary Apostolic in China. <span class="smcap">Vols.</span> I. and II. 8vo. 21s.; and +<span class="smcap">Vol.</span> III. 10s. 6d.</p> + +<p><b>Huc.—The Chinese Empire:</b> A Sequel to Huc and Gabet's <i>Journey through +Tartary and Thibet</i>. By the Abbé <span class="smcap">Huc</span>, formerly Missionary Apostolic in +China. <i>Second Edition</i>; with Map. 2 vols. 8vo. 24s.</p> + +<p><b>Hudson and Kennedy's Ascent of Mont Blanc by a New Route and Without +Guides.</b> <i>Second Edition</i>, with Plate and Map. Post 8vo. 5s. 6d.</p> + +<p><b>Hudson's Plain Directions for Making Wills in conformity with the Law:</b> +With a clear Exposition of the Law relating to the distribution of +Personal Estate in the case of Intestacy, two Forms of Wills, and much +useful information. Fcp. 8vo. 2s. 6d.</p> + +<p><b>Hudson's Executor's Guide.</b> New and improved Edition; with the Statutes +enacted, and the Judicial Decisions pronounced since the last Edition +incorporated. Fcp. 8vo. 6s.</p> + +<p><b>Humboldt's Cosmos.</b> Translated, with the Author's authority, by Mrs. +<span class="smcap">Sabine</span>. <span class="smcap">Vols.</span> I. and II. 16mo. Half-a-Crown each, sewed; 3s. 6d. each, +cloth; or in post 8vo. 12s. each, cloth. <span class="smcap">Vol.</span> III. Post 8vo. 12s. 6d. +cloth: or in 16mo. Part I. 2s. 6d. sewed, 3s. 6d. cloth; and Part II. +3s. sewed, 4s. cloth. <span class="smcap">Vol.</span> IV. Part I. post 8vo. 15s. cloth; 16mo. 7s. +6d. cloth.</p> + +<p><b>Humboldt's Aspects of Nature.</b> Translated, with the Author's authority, +by Mrs. <span class="smcap">Sabine</span>. 16mo. price 6s.: or in 2 vols. 3s. 6d. each, cloth; 2s. +6d. each, sewed.</p> + +<p><b>Humphreys.—Parables of Our Lord</b>, illuminated and ornamented in the +style of the Missals of the Renaissance by <span class="smcap">H. N. Humphreys</span>. Square fcp. +8vo. 21s. in massive carved covers; or 30s. bound in morocco, by Hayday.</p> + +<p><b>Hunt.—Researches on Light in its Chemical Relations;</b> embracing a +Consideration of all the Photographic Processes. By <span class="smcap">Robert Hunt</span>, F.R.S. +Second Edition, with Plate and Woodcuts 8vo. 10s. 6d.</p> + +<p><b>Hutchinson.—Impressions of Western Africa:</b> With a Report on the +Peculiarities of Trade up the Rivers in the Bight of Biafra. By <span class="smcap">J. T. +Hutchinson</span>, Esq., British Consul for the Bight of Biafra and the Island +of Fernando Po. Post 8vo. 8s. 6d.</p> + +<p><b>Idle.—Hints on Shooting, Fishing, &c., both on Sea and Land, and in the +Fresh-Water Lochs of Scotland:</b> Being the Experiences of <span class="smcap">C. Idle</span>, Esq. +Fcp. 8vo. 5s.</p> + +<p><b>Mrs. Jameson's Legends of the Saints and Martyrs, as represented in +Christian Art:</b> Forming the <span class="smcap">First Series</span> of <i>Sacred and Legendary Art</i>. +Third Edition; with 17 Etchings and upwards of 180 Woodcuts. 2 vols. +square crown 8vo. 81s. 6d.</p> + +<p><b>Mrs. Jameson's Legends of the Monastic Orders, as represented in +Christian Art.</b> Forming the <span class="smcap">Second Series</span> of <i>Sacred and Legendary Art</i>. +Second Edition, enlarged; with 11 Etchings by the Author and 88 +Woodcuts. 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By <span class="smcap">W. Miles</span>, Esq. Imperial 8vo. 12s. 6d.</p> + +<p><b>Miles's Plain Treatise on Horse-Shoeing.</b> With Plates and Woodcuts. +Second Edition. Post 8vo. 2s.</p> + +<p><b>Milner's History of the Church of Christ.</b> With Additions by the late +Rev. <span class="smcap">Isaac Milner</span>, D.D., F.R.S. A New Edition, revised, with additional +Notes by the Rev. <span class="smcap">T. Grantham</span>, B.D. 4 vols. 8vo. 52s.</p> + +<p><b>James Montgomery's Poetical Works:</b> Collective Edition; with the Author's +Autobiographical Prefaces, complete in One Volume; with Portrait and +Vignette. Square crown 8vo. 10s. 6d. cloth; morocco, 21s.—Or, in 4 +vols. fcp. 8vo. with Plates, 14s.</p> + +<p><b>Moore.—The Power of the Soul over the Body, considered in relation to +Health and Morals.</b> By <span class="smcap">George Moore</span>, M.D. Fcp. 8vo. 6s.</p> + +<p><b>Moore.—Man and his Motives.</b> By <span class="smcap">George Moore</span>, M.D. Fcp. 8vo. 6s.</p> + +<p><b>Moore.—The Use of the Body in relation to the Mind.</b> By <span class="smcap">G. Moore</span>, M.D. +Fcp. 8vo. 6s.</p> + +<p><b>Moore.—Memoirs, Journal, and Correspondence of Thomas Moore.</b> Edited by +the Right Hon. <span class="smcap">Lord John Russell</span>, M.P. With Portraits and Vignettes. 8 +vols. post 8vo. £4. 4s.</p> + +<p><b>Thomas Moore's Poetical Works:</b> Comprising the Author's Recent +Introductions and Notes. The <i>Traveller's Edition</i>, crown 8vo. with +Portrait, 12s. 6d. cloth; morocco by Hayday, 21s.—Also the <i>Library +Edition</i>, with Portrait and Vignette, medium 8vo. 21s. cloth; morocco by +Hayday, 42s.—And the <i>First collected Edition</i>, in 10 vols. fcp. 8vo. +with Portrait and 19 Plates, 35s.</p> + +<p><b>Moore.—Poetry and Pictures from Thomas Moore:</b> Being Selections of the +most popular and admired of Moore's Poems, copiously illustrated with +highly-finished Wood Engravings from original Designs by eminent +Artists. Fcp. 4to. price 21s. cloth; or 42s. bound in morocco by Hayday.</p> + +<p><b>Moore's Songs, Ballads, and Sacred Songs.</b> New Edition, printed in Ruby +Type; with the Notes, and a Vignette from a Design by T. Creswick, R.A. +32mo. 2s. 6d.—An Edition in 16mo. with Vignette by R. 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Square crown 8vo. 15s. cloth; morocco, 28s.</p> + +<p><b>Moore's Lalla Rookh.</b> New Edition, printed in Ruby Type; with the Preface +and Notes from the collective edition of <i>Moore's Poetical Works</i>, and a +Frontispiece from a Design by Kenny Meadows. 32mo. 2s. 6d.—An Edition +in 16mo. with Vignette, 5s.; or 12s. 6d. morocco by Hayday.</p> + +<p><b>Moore's Lalla Rookh.</b> A New Edition, with numerous Illustrations from +original Designs by <span class="smcap">John Tenniel</span>, engraved on Wood by the Brothers +<span class="smcap">Dalziel</span>. Fcp. 4to.</p> + +<p class='right'>[<i>In preparation.</i></p> + +<p><b>Moore's Irish Melodies.</b> A New Edition, with 13 highly-finished Steel +Plates, from Original Designs by eminent Artists. 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With a +Selection from his Letters, edited by Mrs. <span class="smcap">Austin</span>. <i>New Edition</i>. 2 +vols. 8vo. 28s.</p> + +<p><b>The Rev. Sydney Smith's Miscellaneous Works.</b> Including his Contributions +to The Edinburgh Review. Three Editions:—</p> + +<blockquote><p>1. <span class="smcap">A Library Edition</span> (the <i>Fourth</i>), in 3 vols. 8vo. with Portrait, +36s.</p> + +<p>2. Complete in <span class="smcap">One Volume</span>, with Portrait and Vignette. Square +crown, 8vo. 21s. cloth, or 30s. bound in calf.</p> + +<p>3. Another <span class="smcap">New Edition</span>, in 3 vols. fcp. 8vo. 21s.</p></blockquote> + +<p><b>The Rev. Sydney Smith's Elementary Sketches of Moral Philosophy</b>, +delivered at the Royal Institution in the Years 1804 to 1806, Fcp. 8vo. +7s.</p> + +<p><b>Snow.—Two Tears' Cruise off Tierra del Fuego, the Falkland Islands, +Patagonia, and in the River Plate:</b> A Narrative of Life in the Southern +Seas. By <span class="smcap">W. 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Sir <span class="smcap">James Stephen, K.C.B., LL.D.</span> Third Edition. 2 +vols. 8vo. 24s.</p> + +<p><b>Stonehenge.—The Dog in Health and Disease:</b> Comprising the various Modes +of Breaking and using him for Hunting, Coursing, Shooting, &c.; and +including the Points or Characteristics of Toy Dogs. By <span class="smcap">Stonehenge</span>. 8vo. +with numerous Illustrations.</p> + +<p class='right'>[<i>In the press.</i></p> + +<p><b>Stonehenge.—The Greyhound:</b> Being a Treatise on the Art of Breeding, +Rearing, and Training Greyhounds for Public Running; their Diseases and +Treatment: Containing also Rules for the Management of Coursing +Meetings, and for the Decision of Courses. By <span class="smcap">Stonehenge</span>. With +Frontispiece and Woodcuts. Square crown 8vo. 21s.</p> + +<p><b>Stow's Training System, Moral Training School, and Normal Seminary for +preparing Schoolmasters and Governesses.</b> Tenth Edition; Plates and +Woodcuts. 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Chalon, R.A., and +other distinguished persons. 2 vols. post 8vo.</p> + +<p><b>Van der Hoeven's Handbook of Zoology.</b> Translated from the Second Dutch +Edition by the Rev. <span class="smcap">William Clark, M.D., F.R.S.</span>, Professor of Anatomy in +the University of Cambridge; with additional References by the Author. 2 +vols. 8vo. with 24 Plates of Figures, price 60s. cloth; or separately, +<span class="smcap">Vol. I.</span> <i>Invertebrata</i>, 30s., and <span class="smcap">Vol. II.</span> <i>Vertebrata</i>, 30s.</p> + +<p><b>Vehse.—Memoirs of the Court, Aristocracy, and Diplomacy of Austria.</b> By +Dr. <span class="smcap">E. Vehse</span>. Translated from the German by <span class="smcap">Franz Demmler</span>. 2 vols. post +8vo. 21s.</p> + +<p><b>Von Tempsky.—Mitla;</b> or, Incidents and Personal Adventures on a Journey +in Mexico, Guatemala, and Salvador in the Years 1853 to 1855: With +Observations on the Modes of Life in those Countries. By <span class="smcap">G. F. 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Fcp. 8vo. 6s.</p> + +<p><b>Webster and Parkes's Encyclopædia of Domestic Economy;</b> comprising such +subjects as are most immediately connected with House-keeping: viz. The +Construction of Domestic Edifices, with the Modes of Warming, +Ventilating, and Lighting them—A description of the various Articles of +Furniture, with the Nature of their Materials—Duties of Servants—&c. +With nearly 1,000 Woodcuts. 8vo. 50s.</p> + +<p><b>Weld.—Vacations in Ireland.</b> By <span class="smcap">Charles Richard Weld</span>, Barrister-at-Law. +Post 8vo. 10s. 6d.</p> + +<p><b>Weld.—A Vacation Tour in the United States and Canada.</b> By <span class="smcap">C. R. Weld</span>, +Barrister. 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Being a +New Edition, enlarged and altered, of the <i>Muscologia Britannica</i> of +Messrs. Hooker and Taylor. 8vo. 42s.; or, with the Plates coloured, +price £4. 4s.</p> + +<p><b>Yonge.—- A New English-Greek Lexicon:</b> Containing all the Greek Words +used by Writers of good authority. By <span class="smcap">C. D. Yonge</span>, B.A. <i>Second +Edition</i>, revised. Post 4to. 21s.</p> + +<p><b>Yonge's New Latin Gradus:</b> Containing Every Word used by the Poets of +good authority. For the use of Eton, Westminster, Winchester, Harrow, +and Rugby Schools; King's College, London; and Marlborough College. +<i>Fifth Edition</i>. Post 8vo. 9s.; or, with <span class="smcap">Appendix</span> of <i>Epithets</i>, 12s.</p> + +<p><b>Yonge's School Edition of Horace.</b>—Horace, with, concise English Notes +for Schools and Students. By the Rev. <span class="smcap">J. E. 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Post 8vo. +7s. 6d.</p> + +<p><b>Zumpt's Grammar of the Latin Language.</b> Translated and adapted for the +use of English Students by Dr. <span class="smcap">L. Schmitz</span>, F.R.S.E.: With numerous +Additions and Corrections by the Author and Translator. 8vo. 14s.</p> + +<hr /> + +<h4>DOMENECH'S MISSIONARY TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA.</h4> + +<h4>Just published, in One Volume, 8vo. with Map, price 10s. 6d. cloth,</h4> + +<h2>MISSIONARY ADVENTURES</h2> + +<h4>IN</h4> + +<h2>TEXAS AND MEXICO:</h2> + +<h4>A PERSONAL NARRATIVE OF SIX YEARS' SOJOURN IN THOSE REGIONS.</h4> + +<h4>By the Abbé DOMENECH.</h4> + +<h4>Translated from the French under the author's superintendence.</h4> + +<hr class='smler' /> + +<h4>OPINIONS OF THE PRESS.</h4> + +<p>"The chequered and perilous existence of a Catholic missionary +consecrating himself to the cure of souls in the wilds of Texas and +Western America, his physical and moral struggles, are here portrayed +with a vivid truthfulness well calculated to arrest the sympathy of our +readers.... This book requires no further recommendation from as than +the analysis here given. Since the perusal of Livingstone's Africa, we +have read no traveller's journal with more instruction and pleasure. It +is eminently suggestive, too."</p> + +<p class='right'><span class="smcap">Leader</span>.</p> + +<p>"Domenech's tone throughout is one of profound conviction; and the +hardships which he encountered, and which he relates with so much +simplicity and modesty as to enforce belief, are proof that he took his +mission to heart. In the two journeys he performed to America—journeys +that would have supplied a diffuse book-maker with matter for many +volumes, the Abbé was almost every day exposed to dangers of his +life—sometimes from the climate, sometimes from the privations to which +he was subjected, now from the rough character of the country he +constantly compelled to traverse in his spiritual journeys, anon from +the violence of colonists or Indians.... It will be seen that readers +who expect an infinity of enjoyment from these missionary adventures +will not be disappointed."</p> + +<p class='right'><span class="smcap">Daily Telegraph</span>.</p> + +<p>"The good and brave young Abbé Domenech, whose personal narrative we may +at once say we have found more readable and more informing than a dozen +volumes of ordinary adventure, is not unworthy to be named with Huc in +the annals of missionary enterprise; and we know not how to give him +higher praise. We speak of personal characteristics, and in these—in +the qualifications for a life of self-denying severity, not exercised +under the protecting shadow of a cloister, but in hourly conflict with +danger and necessity—the one looks to us like a younger brother in +likeness to the other. His account of Texas, its physical geography, its +earlier and later history, its populations, settled and nomad, and of +the history and customs of the Indian tribes and their forms of +religious worship, is concisely full and clear; and now that the new +destiny of these regions is beginning to unfold itself, we recommend to +particular attention the few pages in which all that is worth knowing +about their past and present condition is summed up.... To us, the pages +in which the Abbé Domenech confesses the trials and sorrows of his own +heart are the most interesting of his book. They bear the stamp of a +perfect and most touching sincerity; and, as we read them, we are more +and more impressed with the truth which they convey to all churches and +all sects. It has been well said, that Heaven is a character before it +is a place. The lesson which this personal narrative of a poor +missionary teaches, stems to us to be that religion is a life before it +is a dogma."</p> + +<p class='right'><span class="smcap">Saturday Review</span>.</p> + +<hr class='smler' /> + +<h4>London: LONGMAN, BROWN, and CO., Paternoster Row.</h4> + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of First Impressions of the New World, by +Isabella Strange Trotter + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF THE NEW WORLD *** + +***** This file should be named 18634-h.htm or 18634-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/1/8/6/3/18634/ + +Produced by Robert Cicconetti, Martin Pettit and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This +file was produced from images generously made available +by the Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions +(www.canadiana.org)) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: First Impressions of the New World + On Two Travellers from the Old in the Autumn of 1858 + +Author: Isabella Strange Trotter + +Release Date: June 20, 2006 [EBook #18634] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF THE NEW WORLD *** + + + + +Produced by Robert Cicconetti, Martin Pettit and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This +file was produced from images generously made available +by the Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions +(www.canadiana.org)) + + + + + + +FIRST IMPRESSIONS + +OF + +THE NEW WORLD. + + +LONDON +PRINTED BY SPOTTISWOODE AND CO. +NEW-STREET SQUARE. + + +[Illustration: Map] + + +FIRST IMPRESSIONS + +OF + +THE NEW WORLD + +ON + +TWO TRAVELLERS FROM THE OLD + + +IN THE AUTUMN OF 1858. + + +LONDON +LONGMAN, BROWN, GREEN, LONGMANS, & ROBERTS. +1859 + + +TO + +I. L. T. + + * * * * * + +MY DEAR LITTLE GIRL, + +I dedicate this little book to you; the letters it contains were meant +to let you know how your father and I and your brother William fared in +a rapid journey, during the autumn of last year, through part of Canada +and the United States, and are here presented to you in another form +more likely to ensure their preservation. + +You are not yet old enough fully to understand them, but the time will, +I trust, come when it will give you pleasure to read them. I can safely +say they were written without any intention of going beyond yourself and +our own family circle; but some friends have persuaded me to publish +them, for which I ought, I suppose, to ask your pardon, as the letters +have become your property. + +The reason which has made your father and me consent to this is, that we +scarcely think that travellers in general have done justice to our good +brothers in America. We do not mean to say that _we_ have accomplished +this, or that others have not fairly described what they have seen; but +different impressions of a country are made on persons who see it under +different aspects, and who travel under different circumstances. + +When William, for example, was separated from us he found the treatment +he received very unlike what it was while he travelled in our company; +and as many bachelors pass through the country and record their +experience, it is not surprising if some of them describe things very +differently to what we do. + +The way to arrive at truth in this, as in all other cases, is to hear +what every one has to say, and to compare one account with another; and +if these letters to you help others to understand better the nature and +character of the country and the people of America, my object in making +them public will be attained. + +With some few alterations, the letters are left just as you received +them, for I have been anxious not to alter in any way what I have told +you of my First Impressions. When, therefore, I have had reason to +change my opinions, I have thought it better to subjoin a foot-note; and +in this way, too, I have sometimes added a few things which I forgot at +the time to mention in the letters themselves. + +There is only one thing more to tell you, which is, that though I wrote +and signed all the letters myself many parts are of your father's +dictating. I leave you and others to judge which these are. Without his +help I never could have sent you such full accounts of the engine of the +Newport steamer, or of our journey across the Alleghanies and other such +subjects; and you will, I know, like the letters all the better for his +having taken a part in them. + + Believe me ever, + Your affectionate Mother. + +June, 1859. + + +CONTENTS. + + + +LETTER I. + +Voyage.--Arrival at New York.--Burning of Quarantine Buildings.--Cable +Rejoicings.--Description of the Town Page 1 + +LETTER II. + +West Point.--Steamer to Newport.--Newport.--Bishop Berkeley.-- +Bathing.--Arrival at Boston 9 + +LETTER III. + +Journey to Boston.--Boston.--Prison.--Hospital.--Springfield.-- +Albany.--Trenton Falls.--Journey to Niagara.--Niagara 28 + +LETTER IV. + +Niagara.--Maid of the Mist.--Arrival at Toronto.--Toronto.--Thousand +Islands.--Rapids of the St. Lawrence.--Montreal.--Victoria Bridge 58 + +LETTER V. + +Journey from Montreal to Quebec.--Quebec.--Falls of Montmorency.-- +Island Pond.--White Mountains.--Portland.--Return to Boston.--Harvard +University.--Newhaven.--Yale University.--Return to New York 76 + +LETTER VI. + +Destruction of the Crystal Palace.--Philadelphia.--Cemetery.--Girard +College.--Baltimore.--American Liturgy.--Return to Philadelphia.-- +Penitentiary.--Return to New York 97 + +LETTER VII. + +William's Departure.--Greenwood Cemetery.--Journey to Washington.-- +Arrangements for our Journey to the Far West.--Topsy 108 + +LETTER VIII. + +Washington.--Baptist Class-Meeting.--Public Buildings.--Venus by +Daylight.--Baltimore and Ohio Railway.--Wheeling.--Arrival +at Columbus 119 + +LETTER IX. + +Journey from Wheeling to Columbus.--Fire in the Mountains.--Mr. +Tyson's Stories.--Columbus.--Penitentiary.--Capitol--Governor +Chase.--Charitable Institutions.--Arrival at Cincinnati 168 + +LETTER X. + +Cincinnati.--Mr. Longworth.--German Population.--"Over the +Rhine."--Environs of Cincinnati.--Gardens.--Fruits.--Common +Schools.--Journey to St. Louis 202 + +LETTER XI. + +St. Louis.--Jefferson City.--Return to St. Louis.--Alton.-- +Springfield.--Fires on the Prairies.--Chicago--Granaries.--Packing +Houses.--Lake Michigan.--Arrival at Indianapolis 224 + +LETTER XII. + +Indianapolis.--Louisville.--Louisville and Portland Canal.-- +Portland.--The Pacific Steamer.--Journey to Lexington.--Ashland.-- +Slave Pens at Lexington.--Return to Cincinnati.--Pennsylvania +Central Railway.--Return to New York 239 + +LETTER XIII. + +New York.--Astor Library.--Cooper Institute.--Bible House.--Dr. +Rae.--Dr. Tyng.--Tarrytown.--Albany.--Sleighing.--Final Return to +Boston.--Halifax.--Voyage Home.--Conclusion 279 + + * * * * * + +FIRST IMPRESSIONS + +OF + +THE NEW WORLD. + + * * * * * + + + + +LETTER I. + + + VOYAGE.--ARRIVAL AT NEW YORK.--BURNING OF QUARANTINE + BUILDINGS.--CABLE REJOICINGS.--DESCRIPTION OF THE TOWN. + + + New York, September 3, 1858. + +We landed here yesterday afternoon, at about six o'clock, after a very +prosperous voyage; and, as the Southampton mail goes to-morrow, I must +begin this letter to you to-night. I had fully intended writing to you +daily during the voyage, but I was quite laid up for the first week with +violent sea sickness, living upon water-gruel and chicken-broth. I +believe I was the greatest sufferer in this respect on board; but the +doctor was most attentive, and a change in the weather came to my +relief on Sunday,--not that we had any rough weather, but there was +rather more motion than suited me at first. + +Papa and William were well throughout the voyage, eating and drinking +and walking on deck all day. Our companions were chiefly Americans, and +many of them were very agreeable and intelligent. Amongst the number I +may mention the poet Bryant, who was returning home with his wife and +daughter after a long visit to Europe; but they, too, have suffered much +from sea sickness, and, as this is a great bar to all intercourse, I had +not as much with them as I could have wished. + +The north coast of Ireland delighted us much on our first Sunday. We +passed green hills and high cliffs on our left, while we could see the +distant outline of the Mull of Cantire, in Scotland, on our right. We +had no service on that Sunday, but on the one following we had two +services, which were read by the doctor; and we had two good sermons +from two dissenting ministers. The second was preached by a Wesleyan +from Nova Scotia, who was familiar with my father's name there. He was a +good and superior man, and we had some interesting conversations with +him. + +We saw no icebergs, which disappointed me much; but we passed a few +whales last Tuesday, spouting up their graceful fountains in the +distance. One came very near the ship, and we had a distinct view of its +enormous body. We had a good deal of fog when off Newfoundland, which +obliged us to use the fog-whistle frequently; and a most dismal sounding +instrument it is. The fog prevented our having any communication with +Cape Race, from whence a boat would otherwise have come off to receive +the latest news from England, and our arrival would have been +telegraphed to New York. + +The coast of Long Island came in sight yesterday, and our excitement was +naturally great as we approached the American shore. + +Before rounding Sandy Hook, which forms the entrance on one side to the +bay of New York, we ran along the eastern coast of Long Island, which +presents nothing very remarkable in appearance, although the pretty +little bright town of Rockaway, with its white houses studded along the +beach, and glittering in the sun, gave a pleasing impression of the +country. This was greatly increased when, running up the bay, we came to +what are called the Narrows, and had Staten Island on our left and Long +Island on the right. The former, something like the Isle of Wight in +appearance, is a thickly-wooded hill covered with pretty country +villas, and the Americans were unceasing in their demands for admiration +of the scenery.[1] + +Before entering the Narrows, indeed shortly after passing Sandy Hook, a +little boat with a yellow flag came from the quarantine station to see +if we were free from yellow fever and other disorders. There were many +ships from the West Indies performing quarantine, but we were happily +exempted, being all well on board. It was getting dark when we reached +the wharf; and, after taking leave of our passenger friends, we landed, +and proceeded to an adjoining custom-house, where, through the influence +of one of our fellow-passengers, our boxes were not opened, but it was a +scene of great bustle and confusion. After much delay we were at length +hoisted into a wonderful old coach, apparently of the date of Queen +Anne. We made a struggle with the driver not to take in more than our +own party. Up, however, others mounted, and on we drove into a +ferry-boat, which steamed us, carriage and all, across the harbour, for +we had landed from the ship on the New Jersey side. After reaching New +York by means of this ferry-boat, we still had to drive along a +considerable part of Broadway, and finally reached this comfortable +hotel--the Brevoort House--at about eight o'clock. + +The master of the hotel shook hands with papa on entering, and again +this morning treated him with the same republican familiarity. The hotel +is very quiet, and not a specimen of the large kind, which we intend +seeing later. We had fortunately secured rooms beforehand, as the town +is very full, owing to the rejoicings at the successful laying of the +cable, and many of our fellow-passengers were obliged to get lodgings +where they could. + +We found that Lord Napier was in the hotel, so we sent our letters to +him, and had a long visit from him this morning. + +Two topics seem at present to occupy the minds of everybody here; one, +the successful laying of the cable, the other the burning of the +quarantine buildings on Staten Island. We were quite unconscious, when +passing the spot yesterday, that the whole of these buildings had been +destroyed on the preceding night by an incendiary mob; for such we must +style the miscreants, although they comprised a large portion, it is +said, of the influential inhabitants of the place. The alleged reason +was that the Quarantine establishment was a nuisance, and the residents +had for months been boasting of their intention to destroy the obnoxious +buildings. The miserable inmates would have perished in the flames, had +not some, more charitable than the rest, dragged them from their beds. +The Yellow Fever Hospital is destroyed, and the houses of the physicians +and health officers are burnt to the ground. At the very same moment New +York itself was the scene of the splendid festivities in honour of the +successful laying of the Atlantic Telegraph Cable, to which we have +alluded. + +We came in for the _finale_ of these yesterday, when the streets were +still much decorated. In Trinity Church we saw these decorations +undisturbed: the floral ornaments in front of the altar were more +remarkable, however, for their profusion than for their good taste. On a +temporary screen, consisting of three pointed gothic arches, stood a +cross of considerable dimensions, the screen and cross being together +about fifty feet high. The columns supporting the arches, the arches +themselves, and all the lines of construction, were heavily covered +with fir, box, holly, and other evergreens, so as to completely hide all +trace of the wooden frame. The columns and arches of the church were +also decorated with wreaths and garlands of flowers. + +On a panel on the temporary structure already mentioned was the +inscription, "GLORY BE TO GOD ON HIGH, AND ON EARTH PEACE, GOOD WILL +TOWARDS MEN," all done in letters of flowers of different colours; the +cross itself being covered with white roses and lilies. In the streets +were all sorts of devices, a very conspicuous one being the cable slung +between two rocks, and Queen Victoria and the President standing, +looking very much astonished at each other from either side. The +absurdity of all this was, that the cable had really by this time come +to grief: at least, on the morning after our landing, an unsuccessful +attempt was made to transmit the news of our arrival to our friends in +England. It was rather absurd to see the credit the Americans took to +themselves for the success, such as it was, of the undertaking. + +Besides seeing all this, we have to-day driven and walked about the town +a good deal, and admire it much. It is very Parisian in the appearance +of its high houses, covered with large bright letterings; and the shops +are very large and much gayer looking on the outside than ours; but, on +examination, we were disappointed with their contents. The streets seem +badly paved, and are consequently noisy, and there are few fine +buildings or sights of any kind; but the dwelling-houses are not +unfrequently built of white marble, and are all handsome and +substantial. In our drive to-day we were much struck with the general +appearance of the streets and avenues, as the streets which run parallel +to Broadway are called. The weather has been sultry, but with a good +deal of wind; and the ladies must think it hot, as most of them appear +at breakfast in high dresses with short sleeves, and walk about in this +attire with a slight black lace mantle over their shoulders, their naked +elbows showing through. We go to-morrow to West Point, on the Hudson +River, to spend Sunday, and return here on Monday, on which day William +leaves us to make a tour in the White Mountains, and he is to join us at +Boston on Monday week. + +You must consider this as the first chapter of my Journal, which I hope +now to continue regularly. + +FOOTNOTE: + +[1] The admiration thus claimed for the scenery was sometimes so +extravagant as to make us look for a continuance of it, a reproach of +this kind being so often made against the Americans; but we are bound to +add this note, to say that we very seldom met afterwards with anything +of the kind, and the expressions used on this occasion were hardly, +after all, more than the real beauty of the scenery warranted. + + + + +LETTER II. + + + WEST POINT.--STEAMER TO NEWPORT.--NEWPORT.--BISHOP + BERKELEY.--BATHING.--ARRIVAL AT BOSTON. + + + Brevoort House, 5th Avenue, New York, + 8th Sept., 1858. + +My letter to you of the 3rd instant gave you an account of our voyage, +and of our first impressions of this city. In the afternoon of the 4th, +William went by steamboat to West Point, on the river Hudson, and we +went by railway. This was our first experience of an American Railway, +and it certainly bore no comparison in comfort either to our own, or to +those we have been so familiar with on the Continent. The carriages are +about forty feet long, without any distinction of first and second +classes: the benches, with low backs, carrying each two people, are +arranged along the two sides, with a passage down the middle. The +consequence is, that one may be brought into close contact with people, +who, at home, would be in a third-class carriage. There are two other +serious drawbacks in a long journey; the one being that there is no +rest for the head, and therefore no possible way of sleeping +comfortably; the other, that owing to the long range of windows on +either side, the unhappy traveller may be exposed to a thorough draught, +without any way of escape, unless by closing the window at his side, if +he is fortunate enough to have a seat which places it within his reach. +Another serious objection is the noise, which is so great as to make +conversation most laborious. They are painstaking in their care of the +luggage, for besides pasting on labels, each article has a numbered +check attached to it, a duplicate of which is given to the owner; time +is saved in giving up the tickets, which is done without stoppage, there +being a free passage from one end of the train to the other. This +enables not only ticket-takers, but sellers of newspapers and railway +guides, to pass up and down the carriages; iced water is also offered +gratis. + +The road to Garrison, where we had to cross the river, runs along the +left bank of the Hudson, a distance of fifty miles, close to the water's +edge nearly the whole way, and we were much struck by the magnificence +of the scenery. The river, generally from two to three miles in breadth, +winds between ranges of rocks and hills, mostly covered with wood, and +sometimes rising to a height of 800 feet. Owing to the windings and the +islands, the river frequently takes the appearance of a lake; while the +clearness of the atmosphere, and the colouring of the sunset, added to +the beauty of the scene. We travelled at the rate of twenty miles an +hour, and arrived in darkness at Garrison. Here we crossed the river in +a ferry-boat to West Point, and found William, who had come at the same +speed in the steamer. The hotel being full, we accepted the offer of +rooms made us by Mr. Osborn, an American friend of papa's, at a little +cottage close to the hotel. Mr. and Mrs. Osborn and their two children +had passed some weeks there, and said they frequently thus received +over-flowings from the hotel, and but for their hospitality on this +occasion, we should have been houseless for the night. This cottage +belonged to the landlord of the hotel, and there being no cooking +accommodation in it, we all took our meals in the public dining-room. +The hotel itself is a very spacious building, with a wide verandah at +each end. We found an endless variety of cakes spread for tea, which did +not exactly suit our appetites, but we made the best of it, and then +went into the public drawing-room, where we found all the guests of the +hotel assembled, and the room brilliantly lighted. Here balls, or as +they call them "hops," take place three or four times a week. The scene +is thoroughly foreign, more German than French. The ladies' hoops are +extravagant in circumference; the colouring of their dresses is violent +and heavy; and there is scarcely a man to be seen without moustachios, a +beard, a straw hat, and a cigar. West Point is the Sandhurst of the +United States, and is also the nearest summer rendezvous of the +fashionables of New York. It is beautifully situated on the heights +above the river, and the Military Academy, about ten minutes' drive from +the hotel, commands a most splendid view of the Hudson, and the hills on +either side. + +We went to the chapel on Sunday the 5th, where we joined, for the first +time, in the service in America. It differs but little from our own, and +was followed by a not very striking sermon. The Holy Communion was +afterwards administered, and it was a comfort to us to join in it on +this our first Sunday in America. The cadets filled the centre of the +chapel, and are a very good-looking set of youths, wearing a pretty +uniform, the jacket being pale grey with large silver buttons. We dined +at four o'clock at the _table d'hote_, in a room capable of holding +about four hundred. We sat next to the landlord, who carved at one of +the long tables. The dinner was remarkably well cooked in the French +style, but most deficient in quantity, and we rose from table nearly as +hungry as we sat down. Some of the ladies appeared at dinner in evening +dresses, with short sleeves (made _very_ short) and low bodies, a tulle +pelerine being stretched tight over their bare necks. In some cases the +hair was dressed with large ornamental pins and artificial flowers, as +for an evening party. We met them out walking later in the evening, with +light shawls or visites on their shoulders, no bonnets, and large fans +in their hands. This toilette was fully accounted for by the heat, the +thermometer being at 80 deg. in the shade. Many of the younger women were +very pretty, and pleasing in their manners. + +We left West Point early on Monday morning, the 6th, taking the +steamboat back to New York, leaving William to pursue his journey to the +White Mountains and Montreal alone, and we are to meet him again at +Boston next week. The steamboat was well worth seeing, being a wonderful +floating house or palace, three stories high, almost consisting of two +or three large saloons, much gilt and decorated, and hung with prints +and filled with passengers. The machinery rises in the centre of the +vessel, as high nearly as the funnel. We went at the rate of twenty +miles an hour. We again enjoyed the beauties of the river, and could +this time see both sides, which we were unable to do on the railway, by +which means too we saw many pretty towns and villas which we had missed +on Saturday. We were back at the hotel by twelve o'clock, and are to +make our next move to-morrow afternoon to Newport, a sea-bathing place, +a little way north of this. We are doing this at the strong +recommendation of Lord Napier, who says, at this time of the year +Newport is worth seeing, as giving a better idea of an American +watering-place than Saratoga, where the season is now drawing to a +close. + +We have now become more familiar with this place, and I think are +beginning to feel the total want of interest of any sort beyond a +general admiration of the handsome wide streets and well-built houses. +The Brevoort House is in the fifth avenue, which, in point of fashion, +answers to Belgrave Square with us, and consists of a long line of +houses of large dimensions. A friend, who accompanied us in our drive +yesterday evening, pointed out many of the best of them as belonging to +button-makers, makers of sarsaparilla, and rich parvenus, who have risen +from the shop counter. He took us to his own house in this line, which +was moderate in size, and prettily fitted up. He is a collector of +pictures, and has one very fine oil painting of a splendid range of +mountainous scenery, in the Andes. It is by Church, a rising young +American, whose view of the Falls of Niagara was exhibited this year in +London. We have made frequent use of the omnibus here; the fares are +half the price of the London ones, and the carriages are very clean and +superior in every way to ours. Great trust is shown in the honesty of +the passengers, there being no one to receive payment at the door, but a +notice within directs the money to be paid to the driver, which is done +through a hole in the roof, and he presents his fingers to receive it, +without apparently knowing how many passengers have entered. We +frequently meet woolly-headed negroes in our walks, and they seem to +form a large proportion of the servants, both male and female, and of +porters and the like. We are disappointed in the fruit. The peaches are +cheap, and in great quantities, but they are very inferior to ours in +flavour, and the melons are also tasteless. The water-melons are cut in +long slices and sold in the streets, and the people eat them as they +walk along. The great luxury of the place is ice, which travels about +the streets in carts, the blocks being three or four feet thick, and a +glass of iced water is the first thing placed on the table at each meal. +The cookery at this hotel is French, and first rate. We have had a few +dishes that are new to us. The corn-bread and whaffles are cakes made +principally of Indian-corn; and the Okra-vegetable, which was to us new, +is cut into slices to flavour soup. Lima beans are very good; we have +also had yams, and yesterday tasted the Cincinnati champagne, which we +thought very poor stuff. + +_Fillmore House, Newport, Rhode Island, September 13th._--We left New +York on Thursday afternoon, and embarked in a Brobdingnagian steamboat, +which it would not be very easy to describe. The cabin is on the upper +deck, so that at either end you can walk out on to the stern or bow of +the vessel; it is about eleven feet high, and most splendidly fitted up +and lighted at night with four ormolu lustres, each having eight large +globe lights. We paced the length of the cabin and made it 115 paces, so +that walking nine times up and down made a nice walk of a mile. The +engine of the steamboat in America rises far above the deck in the +centre of the vessel, so this formed an obstruction to our seeing the +whole length, unless on each side of the engine, where a broad and clear +passage allowed a full view from end to end; but instead of taking away +from the fine effect, the engine-room added greatly thereto, for it was +divided from the cabin, on one side, by a huge sheet of plate glass, +through which the most minute workings of the engines could be seen. +There was in front a large clock, and dials of every description, to +show the atmospheric pressure, the number of revolutions of the wheel, +&c. This latter dial was a most beautiful piece of mechanism. Its face +showed six digits, so that the number of revolutions could be shown up +to 999,999. The series of course began with 000,001, and at the end of +the first turn the _nothings_ remained, and the 1 changed first into 2, +then into 3, &c., till at the end of the tenth revolution the two last +digits changed together, and it stood at 000,010, and at the 1,012th +revolution it stood at 001,012. + +To go back to the saloon itself; the walls and ceiling were very much +carved, gilt, and ornamented with engravings which, though not equal to +our Albert Durers, or Raphael Morghens at home, were respectable modern +performances, and gave a drawing-room look to the place. The carpet was +gorgeous in colour, and very pretty in design, and the arm-chairs, of +which 120 were fixtures ranged round the wall, besides quantities +dispersed about the room, were uniform in make, and very comfortable. +They were covered with French woven tapestry, very similar to the +specimens we bought at Pau. There were no sofas, which was doubtless +wise, as they might have been turned to sleeping purposes. Little +passages having windows at the end, ran out of the saloon, each opening +into little state cabins on either side, containing two berths each, as +large as those on board the Africa, and much more airy; but the +wonderful part was below stairs. Under the after-part of the saloon was +the general sleeping cabin for the ladies who could not afford to pay +for state cabins, of which, however, there were nearly a hundred. Our +maid slept in this ladies' cabin, and her berth was No. 306, but how +many more berths there may have been here we cannot tell. This must have +occupied about a quarter of the space underneath the upper saloon. The +remaining three quarters of the space constituted the gentlemen's +sleeping cabin, and this was a marvellous sight. The berths are ranged +in four tiers, forming the sides of the cabin, which was at least +fourteen feet high; and as these partook of the curve of the vessel, the +line of berths did the same, so as not to be quite one over the other. +There were muslin curtains in front of the berths, forming, when drawn, +a wall of light floating drapery along each side of the cabin, and this +curved appearance of the wall was very pretty; but the prettiest effect +was when the supper tables were laid out and the room brilliantly +lighted up. Two long tables stretched the whole length, on which were +placed alternately bouquets and trash of the sweet-cake kind, though the +peaches, water-melons, and ices were very good, and as we had luckily +dined at New York, _we_ were satisfied. The waiters were all niggers, +grinning from ear to ear, white jacketed, active, and clever, about +forty strong. The stewardesses, also of African origin, wore hoops of +extravagant dimensions, and open bodies in front, displaying dark brown +necks many of them lighted up by a necklace or diamond cross, rivalling +Venus herself if she were black. They were really fearful objects to +contemplate, for there was a look of display about them which read one a +severe lesson on female vanity, so frightful did they appear, and yet +rigged out like modern beauties. It was the most lovely afternoon +conceivable, and we stayed on deck, sometimes on the bow and sometimes +on the stern of the vessel, till long after dark. We preferred the bow, +as there was no awning there, and the air was more fresh and +invigorating. + +The passage through Long Island Sound was like a river studded on both +sides with villas and green lawns, something like the Thames between +Kingston and Hampton, but much wider, and with higher background, and +altogether on a larger scale. When, owing to the darkness, we lost sight +of these, they were replaced by lighthouses constantly recurring. This +huge Leviathan, considerably longer than the Africa, proceeded at the +rate of about eighteen miles an hour, going half-speed only, on account +of the darkness of the night. The full speed was twenty-four miles an +hour, and remember this was not a high-pressure engine. After proceeding +through this narrow channel for about 120 miles, we again entered the +Atlantic, but speedily reached the narrow inlet which extends up to this +place. You may wonder at our having been able to make such minute +observations upon the saloon, &c.; but having tried our state cabin, and +not relishing it, we paced up and down the saloon, and occupied by turns +most of its 120 chairs, till three o'clock in the morning brought us to +the end of our voyage. There was no real objection to the cabin, beyond +the feeling that it was not worth while to undress and lie down for so +short a time; besides which, papa was in one of his fidgetty states, +which he could only relieve by exercise. + +But how now to describe Newport? Papa is looking out of the window, and +facing it is an avenue of trees running between two lawns of grass as +green as any to be seen in England, though certainly the grass is +coarser than at home. In these lawns stand houses of every shape and +form, and we, being _au troisieme_ have a distant view of the sea, which +looks like the Mediterranean studded with ships. As this place (the +Brighton of New York) stands on a small island, this sea view is +discernible from all sides of the house. We walked yesterday a long way +round the cliffs, which are covered with houses far superior to the +average villas in England, the buildings being of a brilliant white and +sometimes stone colour, and of elaborate architecture, with colonnades, +verandahs, balconies, bay windows of every shape and variety, and all +built of wood. The churches are some of them very beautiful, both Gothic +and Grecian. A Gothic one to which we went yesterday afternoon, was +high, high, high in its decorations, but not in the least in the +doctrine we heard, which was thoroughly sound on "God so loved the +world," &c. The fittings up were very simple, and the exterior of the +church remarkable for the grace and simplicity of its outline; for +being, like the houses, built entirely of wood, elaborate carving cannot +be indulged in. + +The church which we went to in the morning offered a great contrast to +this, the interior being fitted up with high old-fashioned pews, like +many a village church at home; but besides this, a further interest +attached to Trinity Church, as being the one in which Dean Berkeley used +to preach, and from its remaining unaltered in its internal appearance +from what it was in his days. The pulpit is still the same, and there is +still in the church the organ which he presented to it, at least the +original case of English oak is there, and part of the works are the +same, though some pipes have lately been added. Independently of Trinity +Church, the town of Newport has many associations connected with Bishop +Berkeley's memory, the place where he lived, and where he wrote his +"Minute Philosopher" being still pointed out, as well as the spot on the +beach where he used to sit and meditate. The most striking buildings, +however, are the hotels, one of which, the "Ocean House," is the largest +building of the kind we have ever seen. It has very much the appearance +of the huge convents one sees in Italy, and, standing on the top of the +cliffs, it has a most remarkable effect. There are some very good +streets, but the greatest part of the town consists of detached houses +standing in gardens. There are very few stone buildings of any kind. The +hotel we are in is not the largest, but is considered the best, and in +the height of the season the place must be very gay. + +The next, perhaps the greatest, feature here is the bathing. There are +three beaches formed round a succession of points, the whole forming a +lovely drive on dry hard sand; and such a sun as we gazed upon yesterday +setting over these distant sands passes description. On the first of +these beaches are ranged more than a hundred bathing machines at about a +hundred yards above high-water mark, looking like sentry boxes on a +large scale, with fine dry sand between them and the sea. We went down +on Saturday to see the bathing, which is here quite a public affair; and +having fixed our eyes on a machine about a dozen yards off, we saw two +damsels enter it, while a young gentleman, who accompanied them went +into an adjoining one. In a few minutes he came out attired in his +bathing dress and knocked at the ladies' door. As the damsels were +apparently not ready, he went into the water to wait their coming, and +in due time they sallied forth dressed in thick red baize trowsers and a +short dress of the same colour and material, drawn in at the waist by a +girdle. The gentleman's toilet was coloured trowsers and a tight flannel +jacket without sleeves. He wore no hat, but the ladies had on very +_piquante_ straw hats trimmed with velvet, very like the Nice ones, to +preserve them from a _coup de soleil_. They joined each other in the +water, where they amused themselves together for a long time; a +gentleman friend's presence on these occasions is essential, from the +Atlantic surf being sometimes very heavy; but the young gentleman in +question did not enact the part of Mr. Jacob, of Cromer, not being +professional. The number of bathers is generally very great, though now +the season being nearly over there are not many, but there were still +enough to let us judge of the fun that is said to go on. + +There are few guests in this house now. A "hop" was attempted on Friday +evening in the entrance hall, but the unhappy musicians exerted +themselves in playing the Lancers' Quadrilles and all sorts of ugly +jerking polkas without success, although an attempt at one quadrille, we +were told, was made after we had retired for the night. The _table +d'hote_ toilettes here now are much quieter than they were at Westpoint, +there being but two short sleevers yesterday at our two o'clock dinner. +There is a large and handsome public drawing-room, where we can rock in +rocking chairs (even the bed-rooms have them), or pass an hour in the +evening. We are waited on at dinner by twelve _darkies_, as the niggers +are called, marshalled by a head waiter as tall as papa and as black as +his hat. A black thumb on your plate, as he hands it to you, is _not_ +pleasant. The housemaids are also niggeresses, and usually go about in +coloured cotton sun bonnets. I now leave off, as we start for Boston in +an hour. + +_Boston, 14th September, 1858._--We reached this yesterday, and were +looking for William all the evening, but were disappointed at his +non-appearance. He arrived here, however, at three this morning by the +steamer, and is now recounting his adventures; he enjoyed himself very +much, and looks all the better for his trip. + +I ought to tell you of a few Yankee expressions, but I believe the most +_racy_ of them are used by the young men whom we do not come across: "I +guess" is as common as "I think" in England. In directing you on any +road or street, they tell you always to go "right away." If you do not +feel very well, and think you are headachy, and that perhaps the weather +is the cause, you are told you are "under the weather this morning." An +excellent expression we think; so truly describing the state papa is +often in when in dear old England. Then when you ask for information on +any subject, the answer is frequently, "I can't say, sir, for I am not +_posted up_ on that subject." I asked an American gentleman, who was +walking with us last night, not to walk quite so fast, and he answered, +"Oh, I understand; you do not like that Yankee hitch." "Yankee" is no +term of offence among themselves. Our friend certainly made use of the +last expression as a quotation, but said it was a common one. They will +"fix you a little ginger in your tea, if you wish it;" and they all, +ladies and gentlemen, say, Sir, and Ma'am, at every sentence, and all +through the conversation, giving a most common style to all they say; +although papa declares it is Grandisonian, and that they have retained +good manners, from which we have fallen off. + +I reserve my description of the journey here, and of this town, for my +next letter. + + + + +LETTER III. + + + JOURNEY TO + BOSTON.--BOSTON.--PRISON.--HOSPITAL.--SPRINGFIELD.--ALBANY.--TRENTON + FALLS.--JOURNEY TO NIAGARA.--NIAGARA. + + + Delavan House, Albany, Sept. 15th, 1858. + +I find it at present impossible to keep up my letter to you from day to +day, but I am so afraid of arrears accumulating upon me that I shall +begin this to-night, though it is late and we are to start early +to-morrow. My last letter brought us up to our arrival at Boston, but I +have not yet described to you our delightful journey there. + +We left Newport with our friends, Mr. and Miss Morgan, at two o'clock on +the 13th, and embarked in a small steamer, which took us up the +Narragansett Bay to the interesting manufacturing town of Providence. We +were about two hours on the steamer, and kept pace with the railway cars +which were running on the shores parallel to us, and also going to +Providence. The shores were very pretty, green and sloping, and dotted +with bright and clean white wooden houses and churches. We passed the +pretty-looking town of Bristol on our right. The day was lovely, +brilliant and cool, with a delightfully bracing wind caused by our own +speed through the water. + +The boat brought us to Providence in time only to walk quickly to the +railway, but we had an opportunity of getting a glance at the place. It +is one of the oldest towns in America, dating as far back as 1635; but +its original importance is much gone off, Boston, which is in some +respects more conveniently situated, having carried off much of its +trade. It is most beautifully situated on the Narragansett Bay, the +upper end of which is quite encircled by the town, the city rising +beyond it on a rather abrupt hill. Among the manufactories which still +exist here, those for jewellery are very numerous. + +We were now to try the railway for the second time in America, and +having been told that the noise of the Hudson River line was caused by +the reverberation of the rocks, and was peculiar to that railway, we +hoped for better things on this, our second journey. We found, however, +to our disappointment, that there was scarcely any improvement as to +quiet; and as papa _would_ eat a dinner instead of a luncheon at +Newport, this and the noise together soon worried his poor head into a +headache. We were confirmed in our dislike of the cars and railways, +which have many serious faults. The one window over which papa and I +(sitting together) were able to exercise entire control, opened like all +others by pushing it _up_. A consequence of this arrangement is that the +shoulder next to it is in danger of many a rheumatic twinge, being so +exposed to cold; whereas, if the window opened the reverse way, air +could be let in without the shoulder being thus exposed. I forgot in my +description of the cars, to tell you that the seats are all reversible, +enabling four persons to sit in pairs facing each other, and also if +their opposite neighbours are amiably disposed, enabling each pair to +rest their feet on the opposite seat, and if the opposite seat is empty, +the repose across from seat to seat can be still more complete; but it +is an odious contrivance, and neither repose nor rest can be thought of +in these most uncomfortable carriages. Our seats faced the front door, +and were close to it, which was very desirable as the air is clearer at +that end, and not so loaded with the impurities of so large a mass of +all classes as at the other end. We made various purchases as we went +along. First came the ticket man, then cheap periodicals, then apples +and pears, common bon-bons, and corn pop, of which I am trying to keep +a specimen to send you. It is a kind of corn which is roasted on the +fire, and in so doing, makes a _popping_ noise, whence its name. It is +pleasant to nibble. Then came iced water, highly necessary after the dry +corn pop, and finally about twenty good and well-chosen books. Papa +bought the Life of Stephenson. + +But if we had room to grumble about discomforts within, we could only +admire unceasingly without the very lovely road along which we were +rapidly passing. The country consisted of undulating hills and slopes, +prettily wooded, while bright white wooden houses and churches rapidly +succeeded each other; the tall, sharp, white church spire contrasting +beautifully with the dark back-ground of trees. It was delightful to see +all the houses and cottages looking trim and neat, and in perfect order +and repair. There was no such thing as dilapidation or poverty apparent, +and the necessary repairs being so easily made, and the paint-brush +readily available, all looked in the most perfect order. We could do +little else than admire the scenery, and arrived at Boston at about six +o'clock; the last few minutes of the journey being over a long wooden +bridge or viaduct, which connects the mainland with the peninsula on +which Boston is built. We found rooms ready for us at Tremont House. It +is an enormous hotel, but the passages are close, and the rooms small. +They were otherwise, however, very luxurious, for I had a small +dressing-room out of my bedroom in which was a warm bath and a plentiful +supply of hot and cold water laid on, besides other conveniences. + +The next morning we found Lord and Lady Radstock in the breakfast-room; +and papa accompanied Lord Radstock to see an hospital and prison. + +The prison was the jail in which prisoners are detained before their +trial, as well as when the duration of their imprisonment is not to be +very long. Nothing, by papa's description, can exceed the excellency of +the arrangements as far as the airiness and cleanliness of the cells, +and even the comforts of the prisoners, are concerned, but the system is +one of strict solitary confinement. Papa and Lord R. were surprised to +find that some unhappy persons, who were kept there merely in the +character of witnesses, were subject to the same rigorous treatment. +Lord R. remarked, that he would take good care not to see any offence +committed while in this country, but the jailor replied, "Oh, it would +be quite enough if any one declared you saw it." + +The hospital appears to be a model of what such an establishment ought +to be. The wards are large, and, like the prison cells, very airy and +clean, but with a great contrast in the character of the inmates for +whose benefit they are provided. The great space which can usually be +allotted, in a country like this, to institutions of this description, +may perhaps give this hospital an advantage over one situated in the +centre of a large city like London; though the semi-insular position of +Boston must render space there comparatively valuable; but even this +cannot take away from the merit of the people in showing such attention +to the comforts of the needy sick. But what papa was most pleased with, +was the provision made, on the plan which has been often tried in +London, but never with the success it deserves, of an hospital, or home +for the better classes of the sick. In the Boston hospital, patients are +received who pay various sums up to ten dollars a week, for which they +can have a comfortable room to themselves, and the best medical advice +which the town affords. Papa and Lord R. were shown over this +institution by Dr. Shaw, who was particularly attentive and obliging in +answering all their questions. + +We have since been exploring the town, and are quite delighted with it. +It has none of the stiff regularity of New York, and the dwelling +houses have an air of respectable quiet comfort which is much wanted in +that city of wealth and display. The "stores" too are far more +attractive than in New York, though their way of asking you to describe +exactly what you want before they show you anything, except what is +displayed, reminded me much of France. The city is altogether very +foreign-looking in its appearance, and we are glad to think we are to +return and make a better acquaintance with it later in the month. There +is a delightful "common," as they call it, or park, which is well kept, +and much prized by the inhabitants. Some beautiful elm trees in it are +the largest we have seen in this country. Around one side are the best +dwelling houses, some of which are really magnificent. The hotel, which +is a very large one, has some beautiful public sitting rooms, greatly +larger than those at the Brevoort House at New York, which is much more +quiet in this respect; but these large rooms form an agreeable adjunct +to an hotel, as they are in general well filled by the guests in the +house, and yet sufficiently large to let each party have their own +little coterie. + +The character of the inhabitants for honesty seems to be called in +question by the hotel-keepers, for all over these hotels there are +alarming notices to beware of hotel thieves (probably English +pickpockets); and in Boston we were not only told to lock our doors, but +not to leave the key on the outside _at any time_, for fear it should be +stolen. + +_Trenton Falls, Sept. 16th._--We left Boston on Tuesday afternoon, and +got as far as Springfield, a town beautifully situated on the river +Connecticut, and celebrated for a government institution of great +importance, where they make and store up fire-arms. It is just 100 miles +from Boston, and the railway runs through a beautifully wooded country +the whole way, which made the journey appear a very short one. The +villages we passed had the same character as those between Providence +and Boston, and were, like them, built altogether of wood, generally +painted white, but occasionally varied by stone-colour, and sometimes by +a warm red or maroon colour picked out with white. + +Springfield lay on our way to Albany, and as we had heard much of the +beauty of the place, we were not deterred from sleeping there by being +told that a great annual horse-fair was to be held there, but to secure +rooms we telegraphed for them the day before. At the telegraph station +they took upon themselves to say, there was no room at the established +hotels, but that a new one on the "European plan" had been opened the +day before, where we could be taken in; at this we greatly rejoiced, but +to our dismay on arriving, we found its existence ignored by every one, +and we were almost in despair when we bethought ourselves to go to the +telegraph office, where we were directed to a small new _cabaret_, whose +only merit was that we, being its first occupants, found everything most +perfectly fresh and clean; but having been only opened that day, and the +town being very full, everything was in disorder, and there were but two +bedrooms for papa, myself, William, and Thrower.[2] It became an anxious +question how to appropriate them, as there was but one bed in one of the +rooms, and two in the other. However, it was finally arranged, that papa +and William should sleep in the double-bedded room, and Thrower and I +together in the single bed. We called Thrower a _lady_ of the party, and +made her dine with us, for had they known she was only a "help," she +might probably have fared badly. + +After getting some dinner, at which the people are never at a loss in +America, any more than in France, we sallied forth to see the town, and +were exceedingly pleased with its appearance. Nothing could be brighter +or fresher than it looked, and the flags and streamers across the +street, and general lighting up, were foreign-looking and picturesque. +Although the town is but small compared with those we had just left, the +shops were spacious and well filled, and the things in them of a good +quality. Hearing that there was a meeting at the City Hall, we went to +it, little expecting to find such a splendid room. In order to reach it, +we had to pass through a corridor, where the names of the officers of +the corporation were painted over doors on each side, and were struck +with amazement, when, at the end of this, we entered a hall, as light +and bright-looking as St. James' Hall in London, and though not perhaps +so large, still of considerable dimensions, and well proportioned. The +walls were stone-colour, and the wood-work of the roof and light +galleries were buff, picked out with the brightest scarlet. On a +platform at one end of the room were seated the Mayor of Springfield, +and many guests whom he introduced one by one to the audience in short +speeches. These worthies delivered harangues on the subject of horses +and their uses; and the speeches were really very respectable, and not +too long, but were delivered in general with a strong nasal twang. +There were persons from all parts of America; Ohio, Carolina, &c. &c. + +We made out our night tolerably well, and next morning went to look at +the arsenal, and depot of arms, and were shown over the place by a +person connected with the establishment, who was most civil and obliging +in explaining the nature of all we saw. The view from the tower was most +lovely. The panorama was encircled by high hills, clothed with wood; and +the town, and many villages and churches, all of dazzling whiteness, lay +scattered before the eye. We drove next to the Horse Fair, which was +very well arranged. There was a circus of half a mile, forming a wide +carriage road, on which horses were ridden or driven, to show off their +merits. The quickest trotted at the rate of twenty miles an hour. When +the horses were driven in pairs, the driver held a rein in each hand. +There was a platform at one end filled with well-conducted people, and a +judge's seat near it. The horses in single-harness went faster even than +those in pairs: one horse, called Ethan Allen, performing about +twenty-four miles an hour; though Edward may arrive nearer than this +"about," by calculating at the rate of two minutes and thirty-seven +seconds, in which it went twice round this circle. The owner of this +horse has refused $15,000 or 3000_l._ for it. It is said to be the +fastest horse in America, and a beautiful animal, but most of the horses +were very fine. The people seemed to enjoy themselves much, and all +appeared most quiet and decorous, but the whole population surprised us +in this respect. We have seen but one drunken man since we landed. Even +in our new cabaret, the opening of which might have given occasion for a +carousal, every thing was most orderly. Our landlord, however, seemed +very full of the importance of his position, and could think and talk of +nothing but of this said cabaret. Their phraseology, is often very odd. +In the evening, he said, "Now, will you like your dinner _right away_?" +As we walked along the streets, and tried to get a room elsewhere, a man +said, smacking his hands together, "No, they are already _threbled_ in +every room." + +But I must now tell you of our journey from Springfield to Albany: the +distance between the two is exactly 100 miles; Boston being 200 from +Albany. We left Springfield by train at twelve o'clock, and reached +Pittsfield, a distance of fifty miles, at half-past two. This part of +the road presented a succession of beautiful views. Your sisters will +remember that part of the road near Chaudes Fontaines, where it runs +through the valley, and crosses the Vesdre every five minutes. If they +can imagine this part of it extended for fifty miles, and on a much +larger scale, they may form some notion of what we saw. The railway +crossed the river at least thirty times, so we had it on the right hand +and left hand alternately, as on that little bit in Belgium. The river, +called the Westfield, was very rapid in places, and the water, when +deep, almost of a rich coffee colour. At Pittsfield we got on to the +plateau which separates the Connecticut River and the Hudson. The plain +is elevated more than 1000 feet above the sea. We then began rapidly to +descend. The country was still as pretty as before, but more open, with +hills in the back-ground, for till we reached Pittsfield these were +close to us, and beautifully wooded to the top. At Pittsfield, in the +centre of the town, there is a very large elm tree, the elm being the +great tree of the country, but this surpassed all its neighbours, its +height being 120 feet, and the stem 90 feet before any branches sprang +from it. + +We reached Albany at five o'clock; and a most beautiful town it is. The +great street, as well as one at right angles to it leading up to the +Capitol, is wider, I think, than any street we ever saw; and the shops +on both sides are very splendid. The hotel is very large and good; but, +alas! instead of our dear darkies at Newport, we had some twenty +pale-faced damsels to wait at table, all dressed alike in pink cottons, +their bare necks much displayed in front, with large white collars, two +little frills to form the short sleeves, large, bare, clean, white arms, +and short white aprons not reaching to the knees. They had no caps, and +such a circumference of hoops! quite Yankeeish in their style; and most +careless, flirtatious-looking and impertinent in their manners. We were +quite disgusted with them; and even papa could not defend any one of +them. We were naturally very badly waited upon; they sailing +majestically about the room instead of rushing to get what we wanted, as +the niggers at Newport did. Men-servants answered the bed-room bells, +and brought our hot water; the ladies being employed only as waiters. + +This morning the fine weather we had hitherto enjoyed began to fail us, +as it rained in torrents. Notwithstanding this, we started at half-past +seven; passing through what in sunshine must be a lovely country, to +Utica on the New York Central Railway, and thence by a branch railway of +fifteen miles to Trenton Falls. The country was much more cultivated +than any we have yet seen. There were large fields of Indian corn, and +many of another kind, called broom corn, being grown only to make +brooms. We passed many fields of a brilliant orange-red pumpkin, which, +when cooked, looks something like mashed turnips, and is called squash: +it is very delicate and nice. But beautiful as the country was, even in +the rain, we soon found out that we had left New England and its +bright-looking wooden houses. The material of which the houses are built +remains the same; but instead of being painted, and looking trim and +neat as in New England, they consisted of the natural unpainted wood; +though twelve hours of pouring rain may have made them more +melancholy-looking than usual; for they were all of a dingy brown, and +had a look bordering on poverty and dilapidation in some instances, to +which we were quite unaccustomed. + +On reaching this place we found the hotel was closed for the season; but +rooms had been secured in a very fair country inn, where we had a +tolerable dinner. We were glad to see the rain gradually cease; and the +promise of a fine afternoon caused us to sally out as soon after dinner +as we could to see the falls. These are very beautiful: they are formed +by a tributary of the Mohawk River, along the banks of which (of the +Mohawk itself I mean) our railway this morning passed for about forty +miles. The Erie Canal, a most celebrated work, is carried along the +other bank of the river; so that, during all this distance, the river, +the railway, and the canal were running parallel to each other, and not +a pistol shot across the three.[3] We had been warned by some Swiss +friends at Newport against carelessness and rashness in walking along +the narrow ledge cut in the face of the rock, so we took a guide and +found the pass very slippery from the heavy rain. The amiable young +guide took possession of me, and for a time I got on tolerably well, +clinging to the chain which in places was fastened against the face of +the rock; but as the path narrowed, my head began to spin, and as the +guide discouraged me, under these circumstances, from going any further, +I turned back with Thrower and regained _dry land_, while the rest of +the party were accomplishing their difficult task. They returned much +sooner than we expected, delighted with all they had seen, though papa +said I was right not to have pursued the narrow ledge. He then took me +through a delightful wood to the head of the falls, where a seat in a +little summer-house enabled me to enjoy the lovely scene. The river +takes three leaps over rocks, the highest about 40 feet; though in two +miles the descent is 312 feet. Beautifully wooded rocks rise up on +either side; and the sunshine this afternoon lighting up the wet leaves +added to the beauty of the scene. We scrambled down from the +summer-house to the bed of the river, and walked on to the foot of the +upper fall; which, though not so high as the others, was very pretty. In +returning home we had glimpses of the falls through the trees. Many of +the firs and maples are of a great height, rising an immense way without +any branches, reminding us of the oaks at Fontainebleau. + +We had to change our damp clothes on our return to the inn; and after +partaking of tea-cakes, stewed pears, and honey, I am now sitting in the +public room in my white dressing-gown. This toilette, I have no doubt, +is thought quite _en regle_, for white dresses are much worn in America; +and the company here this evening is not very refined or capable of +appreciating the points in which mine may be deficient. There is dancing +at the great hotel every night in the season; but that is now over. Some +sad accidents have happened here, by falls over the precipice into the +river. The last occurred this year, when a young boy of eight, a twin +son of a family staying here, from New York, was drowned: but these +accidents, we are told, generally happen in the safest places from +carelessness. We go on, to-morrow, probably to Rochester, where there +are some pretty small falls; and on Saturday, the 17th, we hope to reach +Niagara, from whence this letter is to be posted for England. + +A nigger, and our guide of this afternoon, have just seated themselves +in the corner of the drawing room where I am writing, and are playing, +one the fiddle, and the other the guitar. Perhaps they are trying to get +up a "hop," later, but there do not seem materials enough for it, and +their tune is at present squeaky--jerky--with an attempt at an adagio. +The nigger is now playing "Comin' thro' the Rye," with much expression, +both of face and fiddle! Oh, such, squeaks! I wish Louisa heard them. +Here come the variations with accompaniment of guitar.--Later.--The +nigger is now singing plaintive love ditties! + +_International Hotel, Niagara Falls, September 18th._--We had gone from +the station at Trenton to Trenton Falls in a close, lumbering, heavy +coach, which is of very ordinary use in America. But yesterday morning +we went over the same ground in an omnibus, which allowed us to see the +great beauty of the country to perfection; and, although we had +occasional heavy showers, the day was, on the whole, much more +propitious for travelling, as the atmosphere was very clear, and the +sandy dust was laid. We returned to Utica, or "Utikay," as they call it, +and, having an hour to spare, went and saw the State Lunatic Asylum; but +there was not much to remark upon it, although everything, as seems +generally the case in this country, was very orderly and well kept. + +The building, however, was not seen to advantage, as a very large +portion of it was burnt down last year, and the new buildings were not +entirely finished. The gentleman who showed us round was very attentive, +and gave us a report of the establishment, which shows how creditably +every one acted in the trying emergency of the fire. He gave us, also, +two numbers of a little periodical, which is written and published by +the inmates. + +We left Utica soon after eleven, and came on to Syracuse, through a +well wooded and better cultivated country than we have yet passed. The +aspect of the country is varied by fields of Indian corn, and tracts of +burnt and charred stumps of trees, the remains of burnt forests. These +stumps are left for some time to rot in the ground, and a few taller +stems, without branches, are left standing, giving the whole a forlorn +appearance but for the thought that the land will soon be cultivated and +return a great produce; were it not for this, one would regret the loss +of the trees, which are turned everywhere here to good account. The +houses and cottages are all wood. The hurdles, used everywhere instead +of hedges, are wood. The floorings of both the large and small stations +are wood, worn to shreds, sometimes, by the tramp of feet. The engine +burns wood. The forests are burnt to get rid of the wood. Long and +enormous stacks of wood line the road continually, and often obstruct +the view. All this made our journey to Syracuse, though interesting, +much tamer than on the preceding days. An accident happened to the +boiler, which detained us at _Rome_, but, as we were luckily near the +station, we soon got another engine. On the whole, one travels with +quite as great a feeling of security as in England. + +From Syracuse to Rochester there are two roads, one short and direct, +and another, which, by taking a southern direction, passes through +Auburn, Cayuga, Geneva, and Canandaigua. We were well repaid by taking +the longer route, as the road went round the heads of the lakes, and in +one case, indeed, crossed the head of the lake where these beautiful +little towns are situated. The views of all these lakes, but especially +of lake Cayuga, and of lake Seneca on which Geneva is situated, are very +lovely. They stretch "right away" between high banks, varying from two +to five miles apart, each forming a beautiful vista, closed up by +distant blue hills at the further end. These lakes vary from thirty to +forty miles in length, and by means of steamboats form an easy +communication, though a more tedious one than the railways, between this +and the southern part of the State of New York. We had a capital +cicerone to explain all that we saw as we went along, in a Yankee, who +told us he was "raised" in these parts, though he lived in "Virginny." +He looked like a small farmer, but had a countenance of the keenest +intelligence. He told papa, before he had spoken five minutes with him, +that it was quite right a person of his intelligence should come to this +country. When we came to Auburn, he quoted "'Sweet Auburn, loveliest +village of the plain;' a beautiful poem, sir, written by Goldsmith, one +of your own poets." We told him we thought of going to St. Paul, beyond +the Mississippi, when he said, "Oh yes! that's a new country--that's a +_cold_ country too. If you are there in the winter, it will make you +_snap_." + +At Rochester we stopped for an hour to dine. We had intended to sleep +there, but none of us being tired, we changed our plan in order to come +on here last night. During this hour we went to see the Falls of the +Genessee, which in some respects surpassed Trenton, as the river is very +broad, and falls in one sheet, from a height of ninety-six feet, over a +perpendicular wall of rock. We dined, and then papa and I took a rapid +walk to the post office, to post a letter to Alfred O., at Toronto. The +streets, as usual, were very wide, with spacious "stores" running very +far back, as they all seem to do in America. I asked when the letter +would reach Toronto, and the man answered, "It ought to do so to-morrow, +but it is uncertain when it will." Papa asked our guide from the hotel +where he was "raised," (papa is getting quite a Yankee), to which he +replied, "in Ireland." I slept, wonderful to say, through part of our +journey here, in one of those most uncomfortable cars, but woke up as +we approached the station. The night was splendid (we had seen the comet +at Rochester), and the moon was so bright as to make it almost as light +as day; you may imagine our excitement when we saw, in the distance, +rising above the trees, a light cloud of mist from the Falls of +Niagara.? + +_Clifton House, September 18th._--Papa got into a melancholy mood at the +International Hotel yesterday evening, on account of the hotel being an +enormous one, and like a huge barrack; half of it we suspect is shut up, +for they gave us small room _au second_, though they acknowledged they +made up four hundred beds, and had only one hundred guests in the house. +The dining room was about one hundred and fifty feet long, and the hotel +was half in darkness from the lateness of the hour, and had no view of +the Falls; so papa got more and more miserable, and I could only comfort +him by reminding him we could be off to this hotel early in the morning; +for as it is the fashion to try first one side for the view, and then +the other, there was no offence in going from the United States to our +own English possessions. On this he cheered up and we went out, and the +first sight we got of this glorious river was at about eleven o'clock, +when he insisted upon my passing over the bridge to Goat Island. It was +the most lovely moonlight night conceivable, and the beams lit up the +crests of the foaming waves as they came boiling over the rapids. It was +a glorious sight, though I was rather frightened, not knowing what +perils might be in store for us. + +To-day we made out our move to the Canada side, and are most comfortably +lodged. Before coming to this hotel, we took a long drive down the +river, on the American side. We got out of the carriage to see the +Devil's Hole, a deep ravine, often full of water, but now dry. We stood +on a high precipice, and had a grand view of the river. The _river_ is +generally passed over in silence in all descriptions of Niagara, and yet +it is one of the most lovely parts of the scene. Its colour after it has +left the Falls, and proceeds on its rapid way, full of life and +animation, to Lake Ontario, is a most tender sea green. We drove on +about six miles, and then crossed a slight suspension bridge (_the_ +suspension bridge being a ponderous structure for the railroad trains to +pass over); but the one by which we crossed looked like a spider's-web; +and the view midway, whether we looked up or down, was the finest +specimen of river scenery I ever beheld. We then turned up the stream, +and came by the English side to a most wonderful whirlpool, formed by +the river making a rapid bend, and proceeding in a course at right +angles to the one it had been previously pursuing; but the violence of +the stream had caused it to proceed a long way first in the original +direction; and it was evidently not till it had scooped, or hollowed +out, a large basin, that it was forced to yield to the barrier that was +opposed to it. This is the sort of bend it takes. + +[Illustration: Whirlpool] + +After dinner we went to deliver a letter which papa had brought for Mr. +Street, who has a house above the Falls. He was not at home; but we went +through the grounds and over a suspension bridge he has built to connect +a large island, also his property, with the mainland. There are, in +fact, not one but many islands, into which one large one has probably, +in the course of time, become divided by the raging torrent. It is just +above the Horse-Shoe Fall, in the midst of the most boisterous part of +the rapids; and it was quite sublime on looking up the river to see the +horizon formed at a considerable level above our heads by the mass of +foaming water. But now for the Falls! + + * * * * * + +You must fill up this blank with your imagination, for no words can +convey any idea of the scene. They far surpass anything we could have +believed of them. This, however, I write after a thorough study of them +from various points of view; for when we first caught a glimpse, in our +drive to-day, of the Fall on the American side, it disappointed us; but +from the verandah of this hotel, on which our bed-room windows open, we +had the first astounding view of the two Falls, with Goat Island +dividing them; and that sight baffles all description. The Horse-Shoe +Fall is magnificent. The curve is so graceful and beautiful; and the +mist so mysterious, rising, as it does, from the depths below, and +presenting the appearance of a moving veil as it glides past, whether +yielding to every breath of wind, or, as now, when driven quickly by a +gale; then the height of the clouds of light white mist rising above the +trees; and, above all, the delicate emerald green where the curve itself +takes place: all these elements of beauty combined, fill the mind with +wonder, when contemplating so glorious a work of God's hand; so simple, +and yet so striking and magnificent. We can gaze at the whole all day +and all night, if we please, from our own windows. The moon being nearly +full, is a _great_ addition to the beauty of the scene. I have +frequently risen from my seat while writing this, to look first at the +rapids above the American Fall, lit up and shining like the brightest +silver; then at the moon on the mist, illuminating first one part of it +and then another. I must proceed with my description of our doings (if I +can) on Monday, before leaving this for Toronto, which we are to do on +Monday afternoon; but this must be posted here, and I should like to +finish my description of Niagara in this letter. We met a real Indian +to-day. He had somewhat of a Chinese cast of countenance. Perhaps we +shall see more of them. It is said that some of the black waiters in +this hotel are escaped slaves, having come to English ground for safety. + +_September 19th._--This being Sunday, we went to a chapel in a village +of native Indians of the Tuscarrara tribe. The chapel was about half +filled with these poor Indians and half with visitors like ourselves. +They have had a missionary among them for about fifty years, and it is +to be hoped that former missionaries talked more sense to them, and +taught them better truths, than the one we heard to-day. His sermon was +both long and tedious, and was interpreted into the Tuscarrara language +sentence by sentence as the preacher, who was a Presbyterian, delivered +it. The burden of it was their ingratitude, not to God, but to the +Government of the United States, which had devoted an untold number of +dollars for their conversion; and he ended by a threat that this +generosity on their part would be withdrawn if they did not alter their +wicked course of life. As we were there for half an hour before the +service began, we had an opportunity of conversing with many of these +poor people, who seemed little to deserve this severe censure, for many +of them had evidently come from a distance, having brought their food +with them, and the people seemed of a quiet and harmless disposition. +Few of them seemed to understand English, and these only the men, as the +women professed, at least, not to understand papa when he tried to talk +to them. They had all of them remarkably piercing and intelligent black +eyes, but were not otherwise good looking. There were two little babies +in their mothers' arms, one in a bright yellow dress. The women wore +handkerchiefs tied over their heads, except one or two who wore round +hats and feathers. Some in hoops and crinolines! All wore bead +necklaces. They are the makers of the well-known mohair and bark and +beadwork. In the churchyard were many tombstones with English +inscriptions. The following is the copy we made of one:-- + + + "SEKWARIHTHICH-DEA WM. CHEW, + + GRAND SACHEM OF THE TUSCARRARA NATION OF INDIANS, + + WHO DIED DEC. 16, 1857, + + In the 61st year of his age. + +The memory of his many virtues will be embalmed in the hearts of + his people, and posterity will speak of his praise. + + He was a good man, and a just. + + He held the office of Grand Sachem 30 years, and was + Missionary Interpreter 29 years." + + +After chapel we returned to the American side of the Fall, where the +_table d'hote_ dinner was later than at the Clifton Hotel, which we had +missed. While waiting for dinner, we went again to Goat Island, and had +some splendid views of the Falls, the day being magnificent beyond all +description. Papa and William afterwards took a long walk to get a new +view of the whirlpool. Papa has made me dreadfully anxious all day by +going too close to the edges of the precipices; and as the rock is very +brittle and easily crumbles off, and as his feet often trip in walking, +you may suppose the agonies I have been in; at last I began to wish +myself and him safe in the streets of Toronto. I was not the least +frightened for myself, but it was trying to see him always looking over, +and about to lean against old crazy wooden balustrades that William said +must have given way from sheer rottenness with any weight upon them. +This is _such_ a night, not a single cloud; the clearest possible sky +and the moon shining brightly, as it did over the two Falls the first +night we were here. Papa calls me every minute--"Oh come, do come, this +minute; I do not believe you have ever yet seen the Falls!!!" To-morrow +we have one remaining expedition,--to go in a small steamer called the +"Maid of the Mist," which pokes her nose into the two Falls about six +times a day. The passengers are put into waterproof dresses. This I hope +to describe to you to-morrow, and shall despatch my letter before +starting for Toronto. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[2] My English maid. + +[3] The Erie Canal is one of the three great means of communication +which existed previous to the introduction of railways between the +Eastern States and those that lie to the west of the Alleghanies; the +other two being the Pennsylvania and the Baltimore and Ohio Canals. +Sections of these great works are shown on the map. + + + + +LETTER IV. + + + NIAGARA.--MAID OF THE MIST.--ARRIVAL AT + TORONTO.--TORONTO.--THOUSAND ISLANDS.--RAPIDS OF THE ST. + LAWRENCE.--MONTREAL.--VICTORIA BRIDGE. + + + Clifton Hotel, Falls of Niagara, + Sept. 20th, 1858. + +I intended to have wound up the description of Niagara in the letter I +despatched to you two hours ago, but we returned home from our +expedition this morning only five minutes before the post hour for +England, so that our packet had to be hastily closed. + +We had rather a chapter of accidents this morning, but all has ended +well. We went out immediately after breakfast, the weather being +splendid, though there was a high wind, and finding the mist driving +very hard, we decided on going over to the opposite shore across the +suspension bridge, rather than be ferried over to the steamer in a small +open boat, which can never, I imagine, be very pleasant in such a near +neighbourhood to the two Falls. William, however, remained on this side, +preferring the ferry, and we were to meet on the opposite bank and take +to the little steamer; but though our drive took half-an-hour and his +row five minutes, he was not at the place of rendezvous when, we +arrived, nor did he appear after we had waited for him some time. Papa +then went in a sort of open car down an inclined plane, contrived to +save the fatigue of a long stair. On getting to the bottom he saw +nothing of William, and in walking on the wet planks he slipped down and +fell on his side, and cut his face and bruised his eye; he says his eye +was within a hair's breadth of being put out by the sharp corner of a +rock. He walked up the long stair, being too giddy after his fall to +attempt the car, and he felt very headachy and unwell in consequence all +the morning. At last William made his appearance. There had been no +ferryman for a long time, and when he came he knew so little how to +manage the boat, that had not William rowed they would have been down +the river and over the rapids! At last we all four (Thrower included), +started down the inclined plane to the steamer, and were warned by +papa's tumble to take care of our footing. It might easily be made a +more pleasant landing-place than it is by means of their everlasting +wood. We got on to the "Maid of the Mist," and were made to take off our +bonnets and hats, and put on a sort of waterproof capuchin cloak and +hood, and up we went on deck. In one moment we were drenched; the deck +was a running sea, and the mist drove upon us much harder than pouring +rain. I went there with a cold, and if it gets no worse, shall think +fresh water is as innocuous as salt. It was quite a question whether the +thing was worth doing: the day was probably unfavourable, as the mist +drove on us instead of the other way, but some parts were very fine. We +returned to the same landing-place, as they most stupidly have none on +this side; so up we went again in the open cars, and on landing we had +our photographs done twice with views of the Falls as a background. They +were very well and rapidly done. We then drove William towards the Cave +of the Winds, which is a passage behind what looks from these windows a +mere thread of a waterfall, but is really a very considerable one. +Ladies, however, perform this feat as well as gentlemen, but they have +entirely to change their dress--it is like walking through a great +shower-bath to a _cul de sac_ in the rock. Circular rainbows are seen +here, and William saw two; he seemed to be standing on one which made a +perfect circle round him. A certificate was given him of his having +accomplished this feat. While he was doing this we bought a few things +made by the Indians and the Shakers, and then met William, and hurried +home in time only to sign and despatch our letters to England. We then +dined, and I am now obliged suddenly to stop short in writing, as my +despatch-box must be packed, for we leave this at half-past four for +Toronto. + +_Rossin House, Toronto, Sept. 21st._--Our journey here yesterday was not +through as pretty a country as usual, and this part of Canada strikes us +as much tamer than anything we have yet seen in America. We changed +trains at Hamilton and remained there nearly an hour. Sir Allan McNab +has a country house in the neighbourhood, said to be a very pretty one, +and we shall probably go in the train to-morrow to see him. The +railroad, for some time towards the end of our journey yesterday, ran +along the shore of Lake Ontario. The sky was pure and clear, with the +moon shining brightly on the waters of the quiet lake. It was difficult +to believe that the immense expanse of water was not salt. It looked so +like the sea, especially when within a few miles of Toronto we saw tiny +waves and minute pebbles and sand, which gave it an appearance of a +miniature sea beach. Had I not been on a railway when I saw these small +pebbles, I should have picked up some for you, and I think you would +have valued them as much as your cornelians at Cromer. I searched for +them later, and never came up with such a pretty pebbly beach again. + +_Montreal, Sept. 25th._--Unhappily this sheet has been packed up by +mistake for some days, and I have not been able to go on with my +journal, but I resume it this evening, for it must be despatched to you +the day after to-morrow. + +We passed the 22nd and 23rd at Toronto, and had much pleasure there in +seeing a great deal of the Alfred O.'s, and their very nice children, +and it was quite touching to see the pleasure our visit gave them. We +had the sorrow, however, of parting from William, who left us on the +morning of the 23rd for the Far West. He went with Mr. Latham and Mr. +Kilburn, and it was a very great comfort to us that he had such pleasant +companions, instead of travelling such a distance alone. We had an early +visit at Toronto from Mr. and Mrs. W., friends of the O.'s: they begged +us so earnestly to remain over the 23rd to dine with them, that we +consented to do so. Toronto is a most melancholy-looking place. It has +suffered in the "crisis," and the consequence is that wide streets seem +to have been begun but never finished, giving the town a very disastrous +look. There is one wide handsome street with good shops, and our hotel +was an enormous one; but when this is said, there is little more to add +about it, for it looks otherwise very forlorn, and altogether the town +is the least inviting one we have yet seen in our travels. + +In the course of our drive we had an opportunity of seeing the interiors +of some of the houses, many of which display considerable wealth; the +rooms being large, and filled with ornaments of every sort. The ladies +dress magnificently; a handsome coral brooch is often worn, and is +almost an infallible sign, both here and in the United States, of a tour +to Italy having been accomplished; indeed I can feel nearly as certain +that the wearer has travelled so far, by seeing her collar fastened with +it, as if she told me the fact, and many such journeys must have been +performed, judging by the number of coral brooches we see. + +We did little the first day but drive about the streets. We drank tea at +the A. O.'s, and the next day they took us to see one very beautiful +sight; the New University, which is in course of building, and is the +most beautiful structure we have seen in America. Indeed it is the only +one which makes the least attempt at Mediaeval architecture, and is a +very correct specimen of the twelfth century. The funds for building +this university arise out of the misappropriation (by secularising them) +of the clergy reserves; the lands appropriated to the college giving +them possession of funds to the amount of about three hundred thousand +pounds. Of this the building, it is supposed, will absorb about one +hundred and twenty thousand pounds, and they propose to lay out a large +sum to increase an already very good library, which is rich in works on +natural history and English topography. Dr. McCaul, who is the president +of the college, is a brother of the preacher in London. + +We dined at the W.'s on the evening of the 23rd. Their house is very +large, having been lately added to, and the town being very busy, +preparing for an Agricultural Meeting, the upholsterer had not time to +put down the carpets or put up the curtains, and the night being cold, +we felt a little twinge of what a Canadian winter is; but the +drawing-rooms were exceedingly pretty,--the walls being very light +stucco, with ornaments in relief, and they were brilliantly lighted. We +were eighteen at dinner, the party including the O.'s, the Mayor, Dr. +and Mrs. McCaul, and Sir Allan McNab, who had come from his +country-place to meet us. The dinner was as well appointed, in all +respects, as if it had taken place in London. In the evening Mrs. W. +sang "Where the bee sucks" most beautifully. Papa encored it, and was +quite delighted at hearing so favourite a song so well sung. The +mayoress also sang, and so did another lady. The furniture of the rooms +was of American oak and black walnut, which are favourite woods; but we +did not much admire them. When we were leaving, Mrs. W. showed us her +bed-room, which was really splendid,--so spacious, and so beautifully +furnished; there was a bath-room near it, and other bed-rooms also of +large dimensions. We drove back to our hotel in the moonlight, so bright +and clear that it was difficult not to suppose it daylight, except that +the planets were so brilliant. + +We took leave that night of the O.'s, as we had to make an early start +next day, and were very sorry to part from them. On the 24th, we were +off at eight in the morning by train to Kingston, arriving there early +in the afternoon. It is the best sleeping-place between Toronto and +Montreal. The road was uninteresting, though at times we came upon the +broad waters of the lake, which varied the scenery. We had an excellent +dinner at the station, and I ought to mention, that as we were +travelling on the Grand Trunk Railway, and on English soil, we had +first class carriages; there being both first and second class on this +line, but varying only in the softness of the seats. There was no other +difference from other lines. + +Kingston is a prosperous little town on the borders of the lake, and the +hotel quite a small country inn. We drove out to see the Penitentiary, +or prison, for the whole of the Two Canadas,--a most massive stone +structure. I never was within prison-walls before, so that I cannot +compare it with others; but, though papa had much admired the prison at +Boston, he preferred the principle of giving the prisoners work in +public (which is the case at Kingston), to the solitary system at +Boston. We saw the men hard at work making furniture, and in the +blacksmith's forge, and making an enormous quantity of boots; they work +ten hours a day in total silence, and all had a subdued look; but we +were glad to think they had employment, and could see each other. Their +food is excellent,--a good meat diet, and the best bread. The +sleeping-places seemed to us dreadful little solitary dens, though the +man who showed us over them said they were better than they would have +had on board ship. There were sixty female prisoners employed in making +the men's clothes, but these we were not allowed to see. One lady is +permitted to visit them, in order to give them religious instruction, +but they do not otherwise see the visitors to the prison. There are +prisoners of all religious denominations, a good many being Roman +Catholics; and there are chaplains to suit their creeds, and morning and +evening prayers. + +We walked back to Kingston, and on the walls observed notices of a +meeting to be held in the town that evening, to remonstrate against the +work done by the prisoners, which is said to injure trade; but, as we +were to make a very early start in the morning, we did not go to it. + +We were called at half-past four to be ready for the boat which started +at six for Montreal. It was a rainy morning, and I awoke in a rather +depressed state of mind, with the prospect before me of having to +descend the rapids of the St. Lawrence in the steamer; and as the +captain of our vessel in crossing the Atlantic had said, he was not a +little nervous at going down them, I thought I might be so too. We had +first, however, to go through the Thousand Islands, which sounds very +romantic, but turned out rather a failure. There are in reality about +1,400 of these islands, where the river St. Lawrence issues from Lake +Ontario. The morning was unpropitious, it being very rainy, and this, no +doubt, helped to give them a dismal appearance. They are of all forms +and sizes, some three miles long, and some hardly appearing above the +water. The disappointment to us was their flatness, and their all being +alike in their general aspect, being covered with light wood. When this +is lit up by the sun, they are probably very pretty, as we experienced +later in the day, which turned out to be a most brilliant one. The +islands are generally uninhabited, except by wild ducks, deer, foxes, +raccoons, squirrels, musk-rats, and minxes, and also by partridges in +abundance. We have tasted the wild duck, which is very good. + +About one o'clock in the day we lost sight of the islands, except a few, +which occasionally are scattered along the river; we had no longer +however to thread our way among them, as we had done earlier in the day. +Dinner was at two, but we were not much disposed to go down, for we had +just passed one rapid, and were coming to the finest of all, the Cedars; +but they turned out to be by no means alarming to an unpractised eye. +The water is much disturbed, and full of small crests of waves. There +were four men at the wheel, besides four at the tiller, and they had no +doubt to keep a sharp look out; we stood on deck, and received a good +sea in our faces, and were much excited by the scene. The longest rapid +occupied us about twenty minutes, being nine miles long. It is called +the Long Sault. The banks on either side continued flat; we stopped +occasionally at pretty little villages to take in passengers or wood, +but these stoppages told much against our progress, and the days now +being short, we were informed that the vessel could not reach Montreal +that night. There is a rapid a few miles above Montreal, which is the +most dangerous of them all, and cannot be passed in the dark. The boat, +therefore, stopped at La Chine for the night, and we had our choice of +sleeping on board or landing and taking the train for eight miles to +Montreal; and as we had seen all the rest of the rapids, and did not +feel much disposed for the pleasure of a night in a small cabin, we +decided on landing. We had tea first, with plenty of cold meat on the +table, and the fare was excellent on board, with no extra charge for it. + +Before landing we had a most magnificent sunset. The sun sank at the +stern of the vessel; and the sky remained for an hour after in the most +exquisite shades of colouring, from clear blue, shading to a pale green, +and then to a most glorious golden colour. The water was of the deepest +blue, and the great width of the noble river added to the grandeur of +the scene. The Canadian evenings and nights are surpassingly beautiful. +The atmosphere is so light, and the colouring of the sunset and the +bright light of the moon are beyond all description. We made +acquaintance with a couple of Yankees on board, who amused us much. They +were a young couple, travelling, they said, for pleasure. They looked of +the middle class, and were an amusing specimen of Yankee vulgarity. The +lady's expression for admiration was "ullegant:" the dinner was +"ullegant," the sunset was "ullegant," and so was the moonrise, and so +were the corn-cakes and corn-pops _fixed_ by herself or her mother. She +was delighted with the bead bracelet I was making, and I gave her a +pattern of the beads. She was astonished to find that the English made +the electric cable. She and her husband mean to go to England and +Scotland in two years. I was obliged to prepare her for bad hotels and +thick atmosphere, at both of which she seemed astonished. She was also +much surprised that she would not find Negro waiters in London. They +remained on board for the night; and on meeting her in the street +yesterday, she assured us the last rapid was "ullegant," and that we had +missed much in not seeing it. + +We arrived at Montreal at eight o'clock on the evening of the 24th, and +walked a little about the town. The moon was so bright that colours +could be clearly distinguished. We yesterday spent many hours on the +Victoria bridge which is building here across the river in connection +with the Grand Trunk Railway. It is a most wonderful work, and I must +refer you to an interesting article in the last _Edinburgh Review_ for a +full account of it. Papa had letters to the chief officials of the +railway, which procured us the advantage of being shown the work in +every detail by Mr. Hodges (an Englishman), who has undertaken the +superintendence of it--the plans having been given him by Stephenson. +The expense will be enormous--about a million and a quarter sterling; +almost all raised in England. The great difficulties to be contended +with are:--the width of the river--it being two miles wide at this +point; its rapidity--the current running at the rate of seven miles an +hour; and the enormous masses of ice which accumulate in the river in +the winter; rising as high sometimes as the houses on either side, and +then bursting their bounds and covering the road. The stone piers are +built with a view to resist as much as possible this pressure; and a +great number of them are finished, and have never yet received a +scratch from the ice, which is satisfactory. Their profile is of this +form. And this knife-like edge cuts the ice through as it passes down +the river, enabling the blocks to divide at the piers and pass under the +bridge on each side. The piers are built of limestone, in blocks varying +from eight to ten feet high: but in sinking a foundation for them, +springs are frequently met with under some large boulders in the bed of +the river, and this causes great delay, as the water has to be pumped +out before the building can proceed. The bridge will be an iron tubular +one; the tubes come out from Birkenhead in pieces, and are riveted +together here. We first rowed across the river with Mr. Hodges in a +six-oared boat; and the day being warm and very fine, we enjoyed it +much. This gave us some idea of the breadth of the river and of the +length of the bridge, of which it is impossible to judge when seen +fore-shortened from the shore. + +[Illustration: Bridge piers] + +We then mounted the bridge and were astonished at the magnitude of the +work. There is an immense forest of woodwork underneath most of it at +present, but they are glad to clear this away as fast as the progress of +the upper work admits, as if left till winter the force of the ice cuts +through these enormous beams as if they were straw. We could only +proceed across two piers at the end furthest from the town, but here we +had a very fine view of Montreal, lying at the foot of the hill from +which it takes its name. It has many large churches, the largest being +the Roman Catholic cathedral, and the tin roofs of the houses and +churches glittered in the sun and gave a brilliant effect. We returned +to the boat and rowed again across the river below the bridge, and here, +owing to the strength of the current our boat had to pursue a most +zig-zag path, pulling up under the eddy of each buttress, but our +boatmen knew well what they were about, as they are in the habit of +taking Mr. Hodges daily to the bridge and it was very pretty to hear the +warning of _doucement! doucement!_ from the helmsman as we approached +any peril. Mr. H. said that without the familiarity they had with the +river, the boat would in an instant be carried down the stream and out +of all control. The French language is much more spoken than the +English, there being a large body of French Roman Catholic Canadians +here and at Quebec. I say this to account for the _doucement_; but must +now leave this wonderful bridge, and tell you that after seeing it we +drove to the Bishop of Montreal's. We found him and Mrs. Fulford at +home, and sat some time with them, and they asked us to drink tea with +them, which we did. There was no one there but ourselves, and we passed +an agreeable evening with them, and came home by moonlight with the +comet also beaming on us. + +_September 27th._--We went yesterday morning to a small church in the +suburbs where the bishop preached. We found Lord and Lady Radstock in +the hotel, and papa walked with him in the afternoon, and endeavoured to +learn something of the Christian Young Men's Association here. They +found the secretary at home, and from him learnt that the revivals of +religion here have lately been of a satisfactory nature, and that there +is a great deal of religious feeling at work among the middle classes. I +forgot to mention that on Saturday we met a long procession of nuns +going to the church of Notre Dame, which gave the place a very foreign +look. We went into the church for a few minutes. It was very large, part +of it was well filled, and a French sermon going on. There are a good +many convents here, and I shall try to visit one. The Jesuits are said +to be very busy. We hear French constantly spoken in the streets. We +went to church again yesterday evening, when the bishop preached on the +text, "Demas hath forsaken me." + +To-day we took Lord and Lady Radstock to Mr. Hodges, who promised to +show them over the bridge, and since that papa and I have had a pleasant +drive round the mountain. From one part we had a good view of the Ottawa +river, celebrated by Moore, who wrote his Canadian boat song in a canoe +on the rapids of that river. The town of Ottawa has been named by the +Queen as the seat of Government; but after consulting her on the +subject, the inhabitants seem disinclined to take her advice. The views +were very pretty, and the day warm and pleasant. As we drove we +frequently saw on the walls, large placards with a single text in French +or English, an evidence of the work of the revival going on here. We +wound up our visit to Montreal by buying some furs, this being the best +place to get them: they are to be shipped from here in a sailing vessel, +and therefore will not reach London for some time, but notice will be +sent of their coming; so be on the look out for them some day. We are +off this afternoon for Quebec, where we hope to find some good news from +you all. So adieu, my dear child. + + + + +LETTER V. + + + JOURNEY FROM MONTREAL TO QUEBEC.--QUEBEC.--FALLS OF + MONTMORENCY.--ISLAND POND.--WHITE MOUNTAINS.--PORTLAND.--RETURN TO + BOSTON.--HARVARD UNIVERSITY.--NEWHAVEN.--YALE UNIVERSITY.--RETURN + TO NEW YORK. + + + Portland Maine, Sept. 29th, 1858. + +I closed my last letter to you at Montreal, since which we have been +travelling so much that I have had no time for writing till to-night. I +must now, therefore, endeavour to resume the thread of my narrative, +though it is a little perplexing to do so after going over so much +ground as we have done lately in a short space of time. + +We left Montreal early in the afternoon of the 27th, in company with Mr. +and Mrs. Bailey. He is one of the managers of the Grand Trunk Railway, +and came with us as far as Quebec, as a sort of guard of honour or +escort, papa having been specially commended to the care of the +_employes_ on this line. Both he and his wife are English. We crossed +the St. Lawrence in a steam-ferry to join the railway, and as long as +it was light we had a most delightful journey through a highly +cultivated country, covered with small farms, which came in quick +succession on both sides of the road. These farms are all the property +of French Canadians, and on each one there is a wooden dwelling-house, +with barns and out-houses attached to it, and the land runs down from +the front of the tenement to the railroad. There is no hedge to be seen +anywhere, and these long strips of fields looked very like allotment +lands in England, though on a larger scale. These proprietors have been +possessors of the soil from the time of the first settlement of the +French in Canada, and the farms have suffered from the subdivision of +property consequent on the French law of succession. They are so close +together that, when seen at a distance, the houses look like a +continuous line of street as far as the eye can reach, but we soon lost +sight of them in the obscurity occasioned by forests and the approach of +night. We passed many log huts, which, though very rude, do not seem +uncomfortable dwellings. + +We saw little of the country as we approached Quebec, and were conscious +only of crossing the Chaudiere river and of going along its banks for +some way, and afterwards along those of the St. Lawrence, till we +reached Point Levi, opposite Quebec. Here we got into a steamer to cross +the river, and from the steamer we had a grand view of the citadel and +town of Quebec, the tin spires shining jointly with the moon and the +comet; for we beg to say we do not require telescopes of high power, as +we see by the papers you do in England, to detect the latter luminary, +which really does look here almost as if it added to the light of the +night. Papa and I differ greatly as to the length of its tail. I say it +looks two yards long, but papa says it is difficult to tell this, but +that it is really about a degree and a half in length, or about six +diameters of the moon. The nucleus is larger and brighter than any star +in the Great Bear, and these are all bright here to a degree of which +you can form no idea. The planets look as large as fourpenny-pieces. +Papa has made me reduce them to this estimate, as I originally said as +large as sixpences; but he questions altogether my appreciation of the +size of the heavenly bodies, which do all seem wonderfully large to my +eyes. + +On reaching the north side of the river, on which Quebec stands, we got +into an omnibus and drove up streets of a most tremendous ascent; it was +really quite alarming, as the pavement was in the most dreadful state, +and the omnibus, which was very rickety, was crammed with passengers. +Next morning we got up very early, and papa went out before breakfast to +inquire for the letters which we expected to receive from England, but +which had not yet arrived. + +After an early breakfast we went in an open carriage to the Falls of +Montmorency, and I think I never had a more lovely drive. We passed +through several most prosperous-looking villages, and between farm +houses so closely adjoining each other as to give the appearance of a +long suburb to the city. At Beauport, about half-way between Quebec and +Montmorency, there is a splendid Roman Catholic church, which would do +credit to any country. The inhabitants here and at Quebec generally are +entirely French Canadians, and the driver here, as at Montreal, was +quite in the Cohare[4] style for intelligence and respectable +appearance. The falls of Montmorency are a little way off the road, and +the approach to the top of the fall down a flight of wooden stairs is +very easy. The river here descends in one great fall of 250 feet, and as +the river is 60 feet wide, the proportion between the height and the +breadth of the fall seems nearly perfect. It falls almost into the St. +Lawrence, as it tumbles over the very bank of the latter river, and the +view up and down the glorious St. Lawrence is here very beautiful. We +were elevated so far above the bottom of the chasm that the spray +apparently rose up only a short way, but it really does rise upwards of +150 feet, and in winter it freezes and forms a cone of ice exceeding 100 +feet in height, which is said to present a most wonderful appearance. + +Returning to Quebec we had a splendid view of the town. The fortress on +Cape Diamond seemed to jut out into the river, along the banks of which, +and rising to a great height above it, the town lay in all its glory. +The tops of the houses and the spires of the churches are covered with +tin, and from the dryness of the atmosphere it looks as fresh and +polished as if just put up. The sun was shining splendidly, and the +effect was almost dazzling. This and the richness of the intervening +country produced an impression which it would be difficult to efface +from the memory. The citadel, I should think, is hardly as high as the +castles of Edinburgh or Stirling, but in this country everything (even +to the heavenly bodies!!!) is on such a scale that it is not easy to +draw comparisons. The guide book, however, says that the rock rises 350 +feet perpendicularly from the river, so that by looking at some of your +books of reference, you may find out which is the highest. The approach +is from the town behind, by a zig-zag road, and the fortifications seem +very formidable and considerable, though papa says greatly inferior to +Gibraltar, or to Malta, which it more strongly resembles as a work of +art. + +Mr. Baily procured us an order for admission, so that we went to the +highest point, and the view up and down the river was truly magnificent. +A little below the town it is divided by an island of considerable size, +and as the river takes a bend here, it is rather difficult to make out +its exact course. The town is situated at the junction of the St. +Lawrence and the St. Charles, and as the latter forms a large bay or +estuary at the confluence, the whole has a very lake-like appearance. + +We left the citadel at the gate opposite the one at which we entered, +and getting out upon the plains of Abraham, saw the monument erected on +the spot where Wolfe fell; close to it is an old well from which water +was brought to him to relieve his thirst after he had received his +mortal wound. Another monument is erected within the citadel, in what +is called the Governor's Garden. This is raised to the joint memories of +Wolfe and the French general, Montcalm, who was also mortally wounded in +the same action. From the plains of Abraham there is a beautiful view up +the river, and here, as on the other side of the town, the country at a +distance is studded with farm houses. In a circuit we made of two or +three miles in the vicinity of the town, we passed a number of really +splendid villas belonging to English residents, but with this exception +all seemed much more French than English, excepting that in _la vieille +France_ we never saw such order, cleanliness, and comfort, nor could +these be well surpassed in any country. + +The small farmers here live entirely upon the produce of their farms; +they knit their own stockings, and weave their own grey coarse cloth. We +looked into several of their houses, and the extreme cleanliness of +every little corner of their dwellings was wonderful. The children seem +very healthy and robust-looking. The whole population talk French. The +crosses by the roadside proclaim them to be Roman Catholics, and the +extensive convents in the town tend doubtless to the promotion of the +temporal comforts of the poorer inhabitants. The principal church was +richly decorated with gilding up to the roof, and the gold, from the +dryness of the climate, was as bright as if newly laid on. + +The extreme clearness of the air of Canada contributed, no doubt, +greatly to the beauty of everything we saw, though we found the cold +that accompanied it rather sharper than we liked. Mrs. Baily told me +that it is a curious sight to see the market in the winter, everything +being sold in a frozen state. The vegetables are dug up in the beginning +of winter, and are kept in cellars and from thence brought to market. A +month's consumption can be bought at a time, without the provisions +spoiling, as all remains frozen till it is cooked. The sheep and pigs +are seen standing, as if alive, but in a thoroughly frozen state. The +winter lasts from November till April. Sleighing is the universal and +only mode of travelling. The sleighs, which are very gay, are covered +with bells, and the travellers in them are usually clothed in expensive +furs. Pic-nics are carried on in the winter, to arrange which committees +are formed, each member inviting his friends till the parties often +number 100. They then hire a large room for dancing, and the guests +dress themselves in their ball dresses, and then envelope themselves in +their furs, and start at six in the evening for their ball, frequently +driving in their sleighs for several miles by moonlight to the place of +rendezvous. Open sleighs are almost always used for evening parties, and +apparently without any risk, although the evening dress is put on before +starting. There is great danger without care of being frost-bitten +during a Canadian winter, but it must be a very gay and pretty sight to +see sleighs everywhere, and all seem to enjoy the winter much, though +the cold is very intense. + +We left Quebec early in the afternoon of the 28th, having called at the +post-office on our way to the train, and got our English letters. We now +passed during the day what we missed seeing the night before, on our +approach to Quebec. In crossing the Chaudiere we could see the place +where this large river plunges over a perpendicular rock 130 feet high, +and the river being here very broad, the falls must be very fine, but +though we passed close above them, we could only distinguish the +difference of level between the top and the bottom, and see the cloud of +spray rising above the whole. The road till night-fall passed chiefly +through forest lands. The stations were good, though sometimes very +small, and at one of the smallest the station-master was the son of an +English clergyman. + +At Richmond we parted company with the Bailys and got on to Island +Pond, where we slept at a large and most comfortable hotel. From +Richmond the road passes through a very pretty country, but its beauties +were lost upon us, as the night was very dark and there was no moon. +This also caused us to miss seeing the beauties of Island Pond on our +arrival there, but we were fully repaid by the sight which greeted our +eyes in the morning, when we looked out of our window. The Americans +certainly have grand notions of things, this Island Pond being a lake of +considerable dimensions studded with beautiful islands, and surrounded +on all sides by finely wooded hills, up which the heavy mist rose half +way, presenting the appearance we have so often seen in Switzerland, of +hills apparently rising out of a frozen ocean. The mist too, covering +the surface of the water, gave it a snow-like look, and altogether the +sight was very lovely. The road from this to Gorham was most +interesting, being down the course of the Androscoggan river through a +very wide valley, with high hills on both sides. + +We left the train at the Alpine House at Gorham, to take a peep at the +White Mountains. We were kept waiting some little time at Gorham, while +the wheels of the _buggy_, that was to take us to the foot of Mount +Washington, were being examined. This vehicle was a sort of +double-bodied pony chair, of a very rickety description, the front seat +being contrived to turn over, so as to make more room for those at the +back to get in and out, the consequence was that it was always disposed, +even with papa's weight upon it, to turn over, and throw him upon the +horses' tails. Thrower and I sat behind, and papa and the driver in the +front, and I held on tightly by the back, which had the double advantage +of keeping me in, and of preventing his tumbling out. We had two capital +horses, and were driven for eight miles by the side of a mountain +torrent called by the unromantic name of the Peabody River. The woods +through which we passed were extremely pretty, and the torrent was our +companion throughout the drive. The road was of the roughest possible +description, over large boulders and up and down hills. The only wonder +was, that we were not tossed out of our carriage and into the torrent. +The leaves were beginning to turn, and some of the foliage was extremely +beautiful, particularly that of the moosewood, the large leaf of which +turns to a rich mulberry colour. We picked several of them to dry. + +On reaching the Glen House, we found ourselves in front of a very large +hotel, standing in an amphitheatre of mountains. These are called by +the names of the presidents, Washington, Monroe, Adams, Jefferson, and +Madison. Washington is 6500 feet high, and seven others, which form a +continuous line of peaks, are higher than Ben Nevis. Although snow has +fallen this year, they seem free from snow just now, but they all have a +white appearance from the greyish stone of which they are formed, and +hence the name of the White Mountains. We went a short way up the ascent +to Mount Washington, and judging from this beginning, the road up the +mountain must be very beautiful. For two-thirds of the height they are +covered with splendid forest trees. When, at this season, the leaves are +changing in places to a deep crimson, the effect is very fine. The upper +part of these mountains seems to consist of barren rocks. We returned +and dined at the Alpine House. Both papa and I were seriously frightened +in our walks, especially at the Glen House, by encountering three +savage-looking bears. Luckily before we had shouted for help, we +discovered they were chained, but the first being exactly in a path we +were trying to walk along, really alarmed us. + +We left Gorham for Portland at about four o'clock. The road the greater +part of the way is perfectly beautiful. It continued along the course +of the Androscoggan, with the White Mountains on one side, and with a +range, which to our eyes appeared quite as high, on the other. When we +left the river, the road was diversified by passing several large lakes, +one of which, called Bryant's Pond, resembled Island Pond in beauty. + +_October 1st._--We got up betimes yesterday to see Portland, which it +was too late to do to any purpose on the evening of our arrival. Papa +delivered his letter to Mr. Miller, the agent here of the Grand Trunk +Railway, and he accompanied us on the heights, from which we were able +to look down upon the town and its noble harbour--the finest in the +United States. As it is here that the Leviathan is destined to come if +she ever does cross the Atlantic, they have, at a great expense, made a +wharf to receive her. The harbour is entirely land-locked and studded +with islands. The day was very fine, but not so clear as the day before, +or we should have seen the White Mountains, which are clearly visible +from this, although sixty miles distant in a right line. The city is +very beautiful, and, like all the New England towns, most clean and well +conditioned. Each street is embellished by avenues of elm trees of a +larger size than we have yet seen in America, with the exception of +those in the park of Boston. + +We had here an opportunity of witnessing a very pretty sight, which was +the exercising of the Fire Companies, of which there are nine in this +town. Each Company had an engine as clean and bright as if it had just +come out of the maker's hands, and the firemen attached to them were +dressed in uniforms, each of a different colour. Long ropes were +fastened to these engines, by which the men drew them along. To each +engine there was also attached a brigade of men, wearing helmets, and +fire-proof dresses. They seemed altogether a fine body of men. We did +not wait to see the result of the trial, as to which engine could pump +furthest, which, with a reward of $100 to be given to the successful +engine, was the object of their practising. These Fire Companies seem to +be a great "Institution" everywhere in the United States, the troop at +New York having figured greatly in the Cable rejoicings. The companies +of different towns are in the habit of paying visits to each other, when +great fetes take place, and much good-fellowship is shown. Fires are +very frequent in the great towns, but the means of extinguishing them +must be great in proportion, judging from what we have seen here. These +companies are said to be very well organised, and as they act as a +police also, very little pilfering takes place. Mr. Miller afterwards +took us to a part of the suburbs to show us some very pretty villas, +with gardens more cared for than any we have yet seen. + +We left Portland in the afternoon. There are two railways from Portland +to Boston, and we selected the lower or sea-coast road. The country was +not very pretty, the shore being flat, but as we approached the seaports +of Portsmouth, Newburyport, and Salem, the views improved, especially in +the neighbourhood of Portsmouth, which stands on a neck of land jutting +far into the sea. There was a great deal of hay standing on meadows +which were flooded by the sea water; to protect the stacks, they were +built upon platforms supported by stone pillars, which had a curious +effect. The crops seemed very abundant, for the stacks were large and +close together and spread over a wide area. The quality of this salted +hay is said to be good, and the animals like it very much. + +We got to Boston late last night, and to-day papa paid a long visit to +Judge Curtis, and we went afterwards on a railway, drawn by horses, to +see the famous Harvard University, in the town of Cambridge, which lies +about four miles to the west of Boston. When Mr. Jared Sparkes, the +late president, was in England, papa, at Mr. Morgan's request, gave him +letters to Cambridge, and upon the strength of this we called on him and +were most graciously received by Mrs. Sparkes, who entertained us till +Mr. Sparkes returned from Boston. He is a very pleasing and intelligent +man; before parting they gave us letters to Professor Silliman, of the +sister University of Yale, at New Haven. We met here too Mr. and Mrs. +Stevens, who accompanied us back to Boston, and loaded us with +introductions to the same place. + +The town of Cambridge occupies a good deal of ground, for the so-called +streets are avenues of beautiful trees, with villas interspersed between +them. In an open space in the centre of the town, there is a most +magnificent tree, called the Washington Elm, noted, not only for its +size, but for its being historically connected with Washington. There is +a large library belonging to the college; and the college is in every +way very flourishing; but as we mean to return here again, we did not +think it worth while now to see it in detail.[5] + +_October 2nd._--Papa went last night to a meeting, which is held every +night for prayer, at the Young Men's Christian Association, and was +extremely pleased with what he saw and heard. He was there for half an +hour before the prayers began. These lasted from nine till ten. Papa was +placed in the seat of honour, in a chair beside the President, and was +asked by him to address the meeting; but he got out of it by saying that +he came to listen and not to speak, and added only a few words on the +great interest with which these revivals in America were looked upon in +England. He was very much interested with the whole of the proceedings, +which were conducted with extreme moderation and right feeling. + +To-day we made an early start, and at first went over the ground which +we travelled when we left Boston for Niagara; but instead of leaving the +Connecticut river at Springfield, as we did on that occasion, we +followed its course to Hartford, and finally came on to New Haven, from +which place I am now writing. + +We arrived at two o'clock, and, after getting some food, called on +Professor Silliman, who took us over the University, and showed us the +museum, where there are some wonderful foot-prints on slabs of rock, +which have been found in this country. There is also here one of the +largest meteoric stones that is known. In the library there are many +books which were given to it by Bishop Berkeley, whose memory seems as +much respected here as it is at Newport. + +_October 3rd._--Professor Silliman called on us this morning at ten +o'clock, and brought with him Mr. Sheffield, an influential person in +this neighbourhood, and a great patron of the University. As Mr. +Sheffield was an Episcopalian, he took us to his church, where we heard +a most striking sermon, and afterwards received the Communion. The +number of communicants was very large. We are very much struck at seeing +how well Sunday is observed in America. There are about thirty churches +in New Haven, and they are all, we are told, well filled. These churches +are of various denominations; but there seems a total want of anything +like a parochial system. + +Papa went afterwards to the College chapel, or rather church, where the +young men attached to the University were assembled in the body of the +building. Papa was in the gallery, which is appropriated to the +Professors and their families. There are no less than forty-one +Professors at Yale, including those of theology, law, and medicine, +which are all studied here. + +The sciences take greatly the lead over the classics. When we remarked +to Professor Silliman how great the proportion of scientific Professors +seemed to be, he said the practical education which was given in this +country, rendered this more necessary than in England, where men have +more time and leisure for literary pursuits. This is no doubt the case, +and in this country the devotion of every one's time and talents to +money-making is much to be regretted, for it is the non-existence of a +highly educated class that tends to keep down the general tone of +society here, by not affording any standard to look up to. It is curious +what a depressing effect is caused in our minds by the equality we see +every where around us; it is very similar to what we lately felt when on +the shores of their vast lakes,--tideless, and therefore lifeless, when +compared to the sea with its ever-varying heights. If I may carry this +idea further, I might say there is another point of resemblance between +the physical and moral features of the country, inasmuch as when the +waters of these lakes of theirs are stirred up and agitated by storms, +they are both more noisy and more dangerous than those of the real +ocean. + +New Haven is considered to be the most beautiful town in America, and it +is marvellously beautiful. The elm is a very fine tree on this +continent. It is of a peculiar kind, rising to a great height before +any branches shoot out, thus producing large overhanging branches like a +candelabrum. It is common in all American towns, but this is called by +pre-eminence the City of Elms. There are broad avenues in every +direction, the branches of the trees meeting across and forming shady +walks on the hottest day. + +The shops, relatively to the size of the town, are as good as any we +have seen in the larger cities. Next to the booksellers' shops, or book +stores as they call them, the most striking, if they are not the most +striking of all, are the chemists' shops, which abound here as +elsewhere. They are of enormous size, and are kept in perfect order, +though the marvel is lessened when the variety of their contents is +considered, this being of a very miscellaneous description, chiefly +perfumery, at all events not restricted to drugs. Hat stores and boot +stores are very numerous, and labels of "Misses' Hats" and "Gents' Pants +fixed to patterns," are put up in the windows. + +In the afternoon Professor Silliman took papa a long walk in the +country, and geologised him among basaltic rocks of great beauty; and in +passing through the woods, they made a grand collection of red leaves. I +had, during this walk, been deposited with Mrs. Silliman, and we +remained and drank tea with them. The professor's father, also +Professor Silliman, a most energetic gentleman, upwards of eighty years +old, came to meet us, as did Professor Dana and one or two others, +including the gentleman who preached to the boys. I cannot get papa to +tell me how he preached, and must draw my own conclusion from his +silence. He will only admit that the pew was very comfortable and the +cushion soft, and as he was kept awake all last night by mosquitoes, the +inference to be drawn is not difficult. I have since been employed in +arranging my leaves in a blotting-book, which I got at Boston for that +purpose, and as it is late must close this for to-night. + +_New York, October 4th._--We left New Haven this morning and arrived +here this afternoon. The intermediate country along the northern shore +of Long Island Sound is very interesting. We crossed a great many rivers +which in England would be deemed large ones, at the mouths of which were +pretty villages, but we passed so rapidly that we had scarcely time to +do more than catch a glimpse of them. As the mail leaves to-morrow, I +must conclude this. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[4] Our driver, some years ago, at Pau. + +[5] We, unfortunately, never had an opportunity of returning to +Cambridge. + + + + +LETTER VI. + + + DESTRUCTION OF THE CRYSTAL + PALACE.--PHILADELPHIA.--CEMETERY.--GIRARD + COLLEGE.--BALTIMORE.--AMERICAN LITURGY.--RETURN TO + PHILADELPHIA.--PENITENTIARY.--RETURN TO NEW YORK. + + + New York, 12th Oct. 1858. + +We have seen comparatively so little since I last wrote to you, that I +have hesitated about sending by this mail any account of our travels; +but I believe, upon the whole, it may be as well to give you an account +of our movements up to this time. + +My last letter would tell you of our arrival at this place. The evening +was so fine, that papa and I were induced to go to the Crystal Palace. +Although very inferior to ours at Sydenham, it was interesting as being +filled with an immense variety of farming implements, which had been +brought together for the great annual agricultural show. There were also +large collections of sewing machines, hydraulic presses, and steam +engines, besides collections of smaller articles, watches, jewellery, +&c.; and a great many statues, including the original models of +Thorwaldsen's colossal group of our Saviour and the Apostles. The place +was brilliantly lighted up, and the effect was very striking. + +Next day papa was returning home and saw a dense cloud of smoke hanging +over the town; and on approaching the spot, found the poor palace and +all its contents a thing of the past; one minaret only being left of the +building. The whole had been consumed by fire in _ten minutes_; so rapid +was the progress of the flames from the time of their first bursting +out, that in that short space of time the dome had fallen in; and +wonderful to say, though there were more than 2000 people, chiefly women +and children, in the building when the alarm was given, the whole of +them escaped uninjured. + +We waited on in New York till Friday the 8th, vainly hoping to hear +tidings of William; although by a letter received from him a day or two +before, he said he should probably be at Baltimore on Saturday. With +this uncertainty hanging over his plans, we determined on going there; +and on Friday night got as far as Philadelphia by the Camden and Amboy +Railway, through a country far from pretty, compared with what we have +been accustomed to. + +Philadelphia is situated between the Delaware and the Schuylkill, at +about six miles above the junction of the two rivers. In order to reach +the town we had to cross the Delaware, which we did in a steamer of huge +proportions. It was getting dark when we landed at Philadelphia; and we +were much struck with the large and broad streets and well-lighted +shops. It is said of New York, that the winding lanes and streets in the +old part of the town, originated in the projectors of the city having +decided to build their first houses along paths which had been +established by the cattle when turned into the woods. The projectors of +Philadelphia have certainly avoided this error, if error it was; for +there the streets throughout the city are as regular as the squares of a +chess board, which a map of the city much resembles. The streets extend +from one river to the other. + +We got up next morning betimes; and as it is our intention to see the +town more thoroughly hereafter, we took advantage of a lovely day (but +what day is not here beautiful) to see a cemetery situated upon a bend +of the Schuylkill. It is very extensive; for they have so much elbow +room in this country that they can afford to have things on a large +scale; and everything here partook of this feature. The plots of ground +allotted to each family were capacious squares, ornamented with flowers, +surrounded by white marble balustrades, and large enough to contain +separate tombstones, often inside walks, and sometimes even iron +arm-chairs and sofas. The monuments were all of white marble, of which +material there seems here to be a great abundance, and none of them were +offensive in their style, but on the contrary were in general in that +good taste, which the Americans in some way or other, how we cannot make +out, contrive to possess. + +We went afterwards to see the famous Girard College, for the education +of orphan boys. Mr. Girard bequeathed two millions of dollars to found +it, and his executors have built a massive marble palace, quite +unsuited, it struck us, to the purpose for which it was intended; and +the education we are told, is unsuited likewise to the station in life +of the boys who are brought up in it. As in most public institutions for +the purposes of education in this country, no direct religious +instruction is given. This does not seem in general to proceed from any +want of appreciation of its importance, but is owing to the difficulty, +where there is no predominant creed, of giving instruction in any: but +in the case of the Girard institution, even this excuse for the +omission cannot be made, for a stipulation was imposed by Mr. Girard in +his will, that no minister of any denomination should ever enter its +walls, even as a visitor, though this, we understand is not carried out. +For the first time in America we met here with a most taciturn official, +and could learn much less than we wished of the manner in which the +institution is managed. + +On Saturday the 9th, being the same afternoon, we went on to Baltimore, +and were perplexed at not finding letters from William; but to our great +relief he made his appearance in the evening, much pleased with his +travels. + +The country from Philadelphia to Baltimore, like that which we passed +through on the preceding day, is much less interesting than the country +to the north of New York; but a grand feature of the road we travelled +was the Susquehanna River, which is here very broad, and which we +crossed in a large steamer, leaving the train we were in, and joining +another which was in readiness on the other side. The point at which we +crossed the river, was at the spot where it falls into the Chesapeake. +The shores of this beautiful bay are profusely indented with arms or +estuaries, the heads of which, as well as the mouths of several +tributary rivers, we repeatedly crossed on long bridges: this afforded +a great variety in the scenery, and much enlivened the last part of our +journey. + +Next day being Sunday, we heard an admirable sermon from Dr. Cox. The +church in which he preached was a large and handsome one, and the +service was well performed. In describing the service at West Point, I +mentioned that it differed in some respects from our own. We have now +had frequent opportunities of becoming acquainted with the American +liturgy; and, as it will interest some of you at home, I may as well +tell you a little in what those differences consist, with which we were +most forcibly struck. + +Some alterations were of course rendered necessary by the establishment +of a republic, but these seem to have been confined as far as possible +to what the occasion called for. I think, however, in spite of their +republicanism, they might have retained the Scriptural expression, "King +of Kings, and Lord of Lords," instead of changing it to the inflated, +"High and Mighty Ruler of the Universe." This reminded us of the doubt +raised by some, when Queen Victoria came to the throne, if the words +ought not then to have been changed to "King of Queens." It is pleasing, +however, to observe how small the variations in general are, if indeed +there be any, which are at variance with either the doctrine or the +discipline of the Church of England. + +We are so much accustomed to the opening sentences of our own Liturgy, +"When the wicked man turneth away from the wickedness that he hath +committed," &c., that their opening words startled us at first; but +their two or three initiatory sentences are well selected to begin the +service; the first being, "The Lord is in his holy temple: let all the +earth keep silence before him." + +Some of the alterations are improvements rather than blemishes, for the +constant repetitions in our service are avoided. The Lord's prayer is +less frequently repeated, and the collect for the day, when it has to be +read in the Communion Service, is omitted where it first occurs with us. +A little more freedom of choice, too, is allowed to the minister in +several parts of the service. For example: the Apostle's Creed or the +Nicene Creed may be substituted for each other, as the latter is not +used in the office for the Communion; and instead of reading the Psalter +as divided into days in the daily service, some very good selections +from the Psalms are made, which may be substituted either on the week +days, or on Sundays. The daily Lessons are shortened, and yet all the +portions read by us, out of the Canonical Scriptures, are retained, +which is managed by omitting all the Lessons taken from the Apocrypha. + +The second lessons on Sundays are specially appointed as well as the +first, and not made to depend, as with us, on the day of the month. + +The Commination Service for Ash Wednesday is omitted, only the two +prayers at the end being retained; these are read after the Litany. The +Athanasian Creed is never used. + +Some of the verbal alterations, however, grated harshly on our ears. +They are of course obliged to pray for the President, but instead of the +petition to "grant him in health and wealth long to live," they have +substituted the word "prosperity" for the good old Saxon "wealth," for +fear, apparently, of being misunderstood by it to mean dollars. They +seem too, to have a remarkable aversion to all _them thats_, always +substituting the words _those who_. But the peculiarity which pleased us +most in the American service, was that, instead of the few words of +intercession introduced into our Litany, "especially those for whom our +prayers are desired," there are distinct and very beautiful prayers for +the different circumstances under which the prayers of the congregation +may be asked; as for example in sickness, or affliction, or going to +sea, &c. There is, also, a special form of prayer for the visitation of +prisoners, and one of thanksgiving after the harvest, also offices for +the consecration of churches, and for the institution of ministers to +churches; and some excellent forms of prayers authorised by the church +to be used in families. These seem the chief alterations, excepting that +the Communion Service differs very much from ours; the oblation and +invocation, which I believe are used in the Scotch service, being +introduced into theirs. To the whole is added, in their prayer books, a +most excellent selection of psalms and hymns, in which one is glad to +recognise almost all those which we admire most in our own hymn books. + +But, after this long digression, to return to my journal. After the +service, Mr. Morgan, who had accompanied us to Baltimore with his +daughter, introduced us to Dr. Cox, and we were invited by him to return +on Thursday to a great missionary meeting, which is to be held in +Baltimore; but this, I am afraid, we shall hardly accomplish. In going +and returning from church, we saw a good deal of the city. It is built +upon slopes and terraces, which gives it a most picturesque appearance. +It is indeed generally reputed to be the most beautiful city in the +United States, and from the number of monuments it contains, it has been +called the "Monumental City." The principal structure of this kind is +the Washington monument, situated on a large open area, and upwards of +two hundred feet high. It is entirely constructed of white marble, and +has a colossal statue of Washington on the top. The town is built on the +banks of the Patapsco, about fourteen miles from where its flows into +the Chesapeake. It is navigable here for large ships, and presents one +of those enormous expanses of water, which form a constant subject of +dispute between papa and William, as to whether they are rivers, lakes, +or estuaries. Large as the expanse of water is, the distance from the +sea is at least 200 miles, and the water is quite fresh. + +We returned yesterday with William to Philadelphia, and went to see the +famous water-works, which supply the town with water from the +Schuylkill. The water is thrown up by forcing-pumps to large reservoirs +above; the surrounding grounds are very pretty, and the whole is made +into a fashionable promenade, which commands a fine view of the city. We +afterwards went to the penitentiary, which has a world-wide renown from +its being the model of many which have been built in England and +elsewhere. The solitary system is maintained, the prisoners never being +allowed to see each other, nor could we see them. One poor man had been +in confinement sixteen years out of twenty, to which he had been +condemned. Any one remembering Dickens's account of this prison, must +shudder at the recollection of it, and it was sad to feel oneself in the +midst of a place of such sorrow. When here a few days ago, we had left +our letters of introduction for Mr. Starr. He called to-day, and gave +Papa some interesting information about the revivals. He takes great +interest in the young _gamins_, whom I have described as "pedlering" in +the railway cars, selling newspapers and cheap periodicals; they are a +numerous class, and often sharp little fellows. Mr. Starr takes much +pains in trying to improve their moral and religious characters. But I +have no time at present for more. We returned to New York to-day, and +are passing our last evening with William, who is to sail early +to-morrow, and will be the bearer of this letter. + + + + +LETTER VII. + + + WILLIAM'S DEPARTURE.--GREENWOOD CEMETERY.--JOURNEY TO + WASHINGTON.--ARRANGEMENTS FOR OUR JOURNEY TO THE FAR WEST.--TOPSY. + + + Washington, 16th Oct. 1858. + +I closed my last letter to you on the 12th, and gave it to William to +take to you. On the following day we bade him a sorrowful farewell, made +all the more melancholy by the day being very rainy, which prevented our +seeing him on board. We so very rarely see rain, that when it comes it +is most depressing to our spirits, without any additional cause for +lamentation; but it never lasts beyond a day, and is always succeeded by +a renewal of most brilliant weather. + +To console ourselves next day, although papa said it was an odd source +of consolation, we went to see the Greenwood Cemetery, which is one of +the four remaining sights of New York, the fifth, the Crystal Palace, +being, as I wrote to you, burnt down. The cemetery, however, proved a +great "_sell_," as William would have called it; for it is not to be +compared to the one at Philadelphia; and instead of the beautiful white +marble, surrounding each family plot, we found grey stone, or, still +more commonly, a cast iron rail. Moreover, it had to be reached by an +endless series of steamer-ferries and tramways, which, though they did +not consume much money (under 1_s._ a head), occupied a great deal more +time than the thing was worth. The excursion, however, gave us an +opportunity of seeing the town of Brooklyn, which, though insignificant, +in point of size, as compared with New York, has nearly as many +inhabitants as either Boston or Baltimore, and numbers more than twice +those in the town from which I now write. + +We left New York yesterday, end slept at Philadelphia. When we went +there last week, the first thirty miles of our route was across the Bay +of New York, in a steamer, and, on our return, we came the whole way by +rail; but there is a third line, which we took on this occasion, called +the New Jersey Line, by which we went as far as Burlington by rail, and +thence a distance of nineteen miles in a steamboat down the Delaware. It +was splendid moonlight, and the town of Philadelphia, which stretches +along the banks of the river for nearly five miles, was well lighted, +and the river being crowded with ships, the whole effect was very +pretty. + +It is marvellous how well they manage these huge steam-boats. They come +noiselessly up to the pier without the least shock in touching it, and +it is almost impossible to know when one has left the boat and reached +_terra firma_, so close do they bring the vessel up to the wharf. The +whole process is directed by a man at the wheel, and regulated by sound +of bell. There is a perfect absence of all yells, and cries, and strong +expressions, so common in a French steamer, and not unfrequent in an +English one. + +We arrived too late at Philadelphia to be able to do much that evening, +and this morning, we started early for Baltimore, _en route_ for this +place. We had two very pleasant and communicative fellow-travellers, one +a coal merchant, who resides at Wilmington, the capital of Delaware, the +other a Quaker, a retired merchant from Philadelphia, who gave us a good +deal of information about some of the institutions and charities of that +place. He stood up much for the Girard College, and justified the +enormous cost of the building, by saying it was meant as a monument to +the founder. He made a very good defence of the solitary system, which I +mentioned in my last as existing in the penitentiary, and we were +beginning to think him a very wise "Friend," when he broke out on the +merits of Phonography, which, by his account, seems to have made much +progress in America, and he has asked us to call on Mr. Pitman, their +great authority on that subject, at Cincinnati. The old gentleman's name +was Sharpless, and it deserves to be recorded in this journal, he being +the only American we have heard take anything like a high tone upon the +subject of slavery. He gave us the names of some books upon the subject, +which we, in the innocence of our hearts, have been asking for in +Baltimore and here, forgetting that we are now in those states where it +forms a happy (?) feature in their domestic institutions. + +As we were about to part, the old gentleman addressed us both, and +turning to me, said, "I must tell thee how well it was in thee to come +out to this country with thy husband, and not to let him come alone. A +man should never allow himself to be separated from a good wife, and +thou doest well, both of thee, to keep together." To which complimentary +speech I replied, that I had made it the one stipulation in giving my +consent to papa's crossing the ocean that I should accompany him; and I +confessed that I little thought at the time that I should be taken at +my word, or that our berths would be engaged the following day; but +hoped rather, by such stipulation, to prevent his going altogether. I +added that if all went well with our family at home, as I trusted it +would, I had no reason to do otherwise than be very glad I had come. We +arrived here at last. The Americans are very proud of their country. +But, oh! it would do them all good to see this blessed Washington, which +few of them do, except their Senators and Members of Congress, and +others connected with government. Well may Dickens term it "the city of +magnificent intentions." Such ambitious aspirings to make a great city! +Such streets marked out; twice or three times the width of Portland +Place! and scarcely anything completed, with the exception of some +public buildings, which, to do them justice, are not only on a +magnificent scale, but very beautiful. I shall, however, delay my +account of Washington till we have seen more of it, as we stay here till +Monday afternoon, when we return to Baltimore so as to allow us to make +a start for the West on Tuesday. + +We are to travel quite _en prince_, over the Ohio and Baltimore +railroad, one of the most wonderful of all American railways. At New +York we had introductions given us to request the officials of this +line to allow us to travel on the engine, or on the cowcatcher if we +preferred it! either of which would undoubtedly have given us a fair +opportunity of viewing the scenery; but papa saw to-day, at Baltimore, +the managing director, who has arranged for the principal engineer to go +with us, and he is to take us in the director's car, which we are to +have to ourselves, and this gentleman, Mr. Tyson, is to let us stop +whenever we have a fancy to do so. We are to go fast or slow as we may +prefer. We are to start on Tuesday morning, at the tail of the express +train, and we have only to give the signal when our car will be +detached. There are only two or three trains daily for passengers; but +there are goods' and extra trains for various purposes, which are +constantly running at different speeds on the road. It is by reattaching +ourselves to any of these, that we can, when we like, effect all this, +and have an opportunity of seeing, in the most leisurely manner, and +without any detriment to the other passengers, the various parts of the +road that may be worth exploring. The line is very beautiful, and I hope +Mr. Tyson will be prepared for my frequently stopping him when I see +trees, with their splendid red leaves that I may wish particularly to +gather. We are to take our food in this carriage, if necessary, and +have beds made up in it, so as to make us quite independent of inns, and +we may pass as many days as we like upon the road. We are to do this +because, though some of the hotels are good, we may not find them at the +exact places where we wish to stop. Papa has no connection with this +road, and it must be American appreciation of his virtues which has led +the officials to deal with us in this luxurious way. + +On Tuesday the 19th inst., therefore, we make our real start for the +West, and shall probably the first night reach Harper's Ferry, a place +which President Jefferson, in his "Notes on Virginia," which you will +find in papa's library, said, was "one of the most stupendous scenes in +nature, and well worth a voyage across the Atlantic to witness;" and +this was written when these voyages were not so easily accomplished as +they are now. But this railway has opened up scenery which was not known +to Jefferson, and is said far to surpass, in beauty, even this +celebrated Harper's Ferry; but of this we shall soon be able to judge +for ourselves. + +_October 18th._--This must be posted to-day before we lionise this +place, so I shall reserve all I have to say about Washington till my +next, and shall fill up this page with a description of a real live +"Topsy" slave, with whom we have made acquaintance here. She is +fourteen, the property of an old Miss D. We noticed her yesterday +standing about in the passage, and asked her if she belonged to the +hotel, and she said no, that she belonged to Miss D. We said, quite +seriously, as we now always do to blacks and whites of the lower orders, +"Where were you raised?" The creature answered us quietly, "In +Virginny." She is a full, well grown girl, with a large bushy crop of +wool on her head; a pleasant, large, round intelligent face, that is +almost pretty. The young niggers have very little of the real negro cast +of countenance, and the little boys and girls about the streets are +really pretty, and almost loveable looking; while the elders, especially +the females, are hideous to behold, and are only to be tolerated, in +point of looks, when they wear coloured turbans. When I see one adorned +in a bonnet at the back of her head, with a profusion, inside, of the +brightest artificial flowers, a bright vulgar shawl and dress, and an +enormous hoop, with very narrow petticoats, I always wish to rush home, +light a large bonfire, and throw into the flames every article of +ornamental dress that I possess. + +But to return to dear Topsy. We asked her if she were a slave, feeling +very backward to put so trying a question to her; but she answered with +the utmost simplicity, that she was, just as if we had asked her if she +were from France or Germany. In reply to our questions, she said that +her father and mother were slaves; that she has several younger brothers +and sisters; that Miss D. is very rich. "'Spect she has above a hundred +slaves;" and that she is very kind to them all. "Can you read?" "No; +Miss D. has often tried to teach me, but I never could learn. 'Spect I +am too large to learn now." We lectured her about this, and gave her Sir +Edward Parry's favourite advice, to "try again." I then asked her if she +went to church. "No, never." "Does Miss D.?" "Mighty seldom." "Do you +know who made you?" "Yes, God." "Do you ever pray?" "No, never; used to, +long ago; but," with a most sanctimonious drawl, "feel such a burden +like, when I try to kneel down, that I can't." This was such a +gratuitous imitation of what she must have heard the _goody_[6] niggers +say, that I felt sorely disposed to give her young black ears a sound +boxing, for supposing such a piece of acting could impose upon us. +However, leaving the dark ears alone, I urged the duty of prayer upon +her, as strongly and simply as I could, and made her promise to kneel +down every night and morning and pray. She had heard of Christ, and +repeated some text (again a quotation, no doubt, from the _goody_ +niggers) about his death; but she did not know, on further examination, +who He is, nor what death He died. She said Miss D. read to them all, +every Sunday; but probably not in a very instructive manner. She said +her name was Almira. I gave her Miss Marsh's "Light for the Line," which +happened to be the only book I had by me which was at all suitable, and +told her to get it read to her, and that I was sorry I had nothing else +to give her; but I shall try this morning to get her an alphabet, in +order to encourage her to make another attempt to learn to read. At +parting last night, I spoke as solemnly as I could to her, and told her +we should probably never meet again in this world, but that we should be +sure to meet hereafter, at the judgment seat of God, and I entreated her +to remember the advice I had given her. + +As we do not know Miss D., who is a very deaf old lady, staying here, +like ourselves, for a day or two, our conferences with young Topsy have +been necessarily very short, and constantly interrupted by Miss D.'s +coming past us, and wanting her; but we should like very much to buy +Almira, and bring her home to make a nursery maid of her, and teach her +all she ought to know, and "'spect" after all she is not "too large" to +learn, poor young slave! It was pleasant, in our first colloquy of the +kind, to talk to such an innocent specimen of a slave. I mean innocent, +as respects her ignorance of the horrors of slavery, of which she +evidently had not even the faintest idea. I asked her what she did for +Miss D.? "Dresses her, does her room, and _fixes her up_ altogether." +The real, original Topsy is no doubt a most correctly drawn character, +judging by this specimen. And now adieu; you shall have a further +chapter on Washington next time. + +FOOTNOTE: + +[6] I have tried, in vain, to alter this word, which is one coined at +home, and used by the family, but cannot find a substitute for it. Lest, +however, it be misunderstood, I must explain that it is applied in +reference to the truly good and pious among our friends; as the word +"saints," ought to be, had not that term been unhappily associated with +the ridiculous, and a false pretension to religion. + + + + +LETTER VIII. + + + WASHINGTON.--BAPTIST CLASS-MEETING.--PUBLIC BUILDINGS.--VENUS BY + DAYLIGHT.--BALTIMORE AND OHIO RAILWAY.--WHEELING.--ARRIVAL AT + COLUMBUS. + + + Washington, 18th Oct. 1858. + +I despatched my last to you the day before yesterday, and now must give +you an account of our employments yesterday (Sunday, 17th instant). The +morning was very hot, and very lovely, with a clear blue sky, and I +wished that impertinent young lady, Emily, could see what sort of +weather we have here, and how her good wishes for us are accomplished, +beyond anything she can suppose; for we can barely support the heat in +the middle of the day. + +The weather being so lovely, we set off to a church in Georgetown, a +suburb of Washington, where many of the foreign ministers live, and a +very pretty suburb it is; but when we got there, papa's head began to +ache so much, that we thought it best to return to a church nearer the +hotel, so that if he became worse, he might leave the church, and walk +home. We were able, however, to sit out the service, and heard a very +dull sermon from a young missionary, who was to sail, two days +afterwards, with his wife, from Baltimore, for Africa; his sermon was +greatly taken from Livingstone's book, and he spoke more strongly +against slavery than we should have looked for in a slave state. After +the sermon, papa and I went to him, and we asked him a little about +where he was going, &c. &c. He scarcely seemed to know, acknowledged he +was but little acquainted with the work he had before him, and, finally, +when papa put a piece of gold into his hand, he looked at it, and asked +whether it was for himself or the Mission. We answered with some degree +of inward surprise, that it was for any useful object connected with it, +and we took leave of him, wishing him God-speed, but lamenting that a +more efficient man was not going out. + +Papa became much more head-achy during the day. Mr. Erskine called to +see if we wanted anything, and strongly advised my going to a negro +chapel in the evening, and hearing one of the blacks preach. They are +mostly Methodists, that is Wesleyans, or Baptists. He said I should hear +them singing as I passed the doors, and could go in. Poor papa, by this +time, was fit for nothing except to remain quiet, so Thrower and I set +out in the evening, and found, not without some difficulty, an upper +room, brilliantly lighted, over a grocer's warehouse. We went up two +pairs of stairs, and I did so in fear and trembling, remembering what +the odour is when a large dining-room is filled with black waiters: a +sort of sickly, sour smell pervades the room, that makes one hate the +thought, either of dinner, or of the poor niggers themselves. It seems +it is inherent in their skin; to my surprise and satisfaction, however, +we found nothing of the kind in this room, the windows of which had been +well opened beforehand. It was a large, whitewashed apartment, half +filled with blacks. + +We were the only whites present; there were benches across the room, +leaving a passage up the middle, the men and women occupying different +sides. A pulpit was at the further end of the room, and in front of it +stood a black preaching. He was in the middle of his sermon when we came +in, so we did not hear the text, and sat down quietly at some distance +from him, so as to be able to get out and go home to poor papa whenever +we wished; a nigger came forward, and invited us to go further up the +room, which we declined. The sermon went on for some time; it described +the happiness felt by God's true children: and how they would cling to +each other in persecution. The preacher encouraged them all in the path +of holiness, and explained the Gospel means of salvation with great +clearness, and really with admirably chosen words; there was a little +action but not too much; and there were no vulgarities. The discourse +was at least equal to the sermons of many of our dissenting ministers, +and appeared to come from the lips of an educated gentleman, although +with a black skin. He finished, and an old negro rose, and gave out the +text:--"And seeing the multitudes, He went up into a mountain," &c. His +voice at first was faint, and I could not hear what were the various +jokes he cut which produced loud laughter, so we advanced a little. He +afterwards became more serious. His address was quite distinct from his +text, being an earnest and very well delivered exhortation to the +converted to grow in grace; at the end of every period he repeated his +text as a _refrain_. + +At first, I observed among the dark ladies a few suppressed murmurs of +approbation, but as his discourse proceeded, these were turned into +groans; and when he quoted a text, or said anything more than usually +impressive, there was a regular rocking and swaying of the figure among +them, while one or two repeated aloud the last words of his text. While +he was preaching, a tall thin young woman, in deep mourning, came in, +and room was made for her to sit down next to a very fat negress, whom I +had observed at our own church in the morning. The latter passed her arm +round the shoulder of this young woman, as they sat together, and I +observed that at various solemn passages of the old man's address, they +began to rock their bodies, gently at first, but afterwards more and +more violently, till at last they got into a way of rocking themselves +quite forward off their seat, and then on it again, the fat woman +cuddling up the thin one more and more closely to her. There seemed a +sort of mesmeric influence between the two, occasioning in both similar +twistings and contortions of the body, shakings of the head, lookings +upward, lookings downward, and louder words of exclamation and +approbation. This was not continuous in its violence, though there was +generally _some_ movement between them; but the violence of it came on +in fits, and was the effect of the old man's words. It was very curious +that whenever he repeated the text (a far from exciting one, I thought), +the agitation became most violent. The other women continued to murmur +applause, and one woman in advance of the others (a very frightful one) +looked upwards, and frequently smiled a heavenly (?) smile. I sat rather +behind most of them, and on the side where the men were, so that unless +when the women turned round, I could scarcely see their faces. After a +time the old man commented upon the succeeding verses of the Chapter as +far as the words, "Blessed are the poor in spirit," &c., and here he +ceased, almost abruptly; a hymn was immediately given out by the first +preacher, and was sung most loudly and vigorously by most of the +congregation. The men's voices were very loud, but they all sang true, +and with great spirit and energy. There were no musical instruments, and +they sat while singing. The hymns seemed very stirring, but I am sorry I +cannot give you the words of any of them, as there were no books, and +they sung at first from memory, though in some of the after hymns the +preacher gave them out by two lines at a time. + +This being, as I was afterwards told, a Baptist class-meeting, the first +man invited any brother or sister to tell the others "how the Lord had +dealt with him," or "what He had done for his soul." (I quote his +words.) Whereupon a tall well-dressed young negro rose from his seat, +and standing up, told us that he had been a great sinner, and that he +had, through many difficulties, learnt to serve God. He spoke of +persecutions from within in the struggles of a sinful nature and of +great and bitter ones from without. He did not describe what these had +been: but told us that the victory had been his. His language, and +choice of expressions, were always good, though at times there was a +little of the peculiar negro pronunciation. At all descriptions of the +contest having been in his favour, the women swayed their bodies; and +when he, and others after him, asserted to those around that what he had +felt could not have been from Satan, and therefore must have been from +God, there was great agitation, especially in my two friends, and grins +and murmurs from the others. The men listened quietly, sometimes +grinning with delight, and sometimes leaning their heads forward on +their hands, as if meditating. A few of the men who sat at the upper end +of the room leant their heads against the wall, and _might_ have been +asleep. + +After this young man's "experience" was ended, came another singing of +hymns, and then another invitation for more "experiences;" when a tall, +fat, important-looking man rose: his figure reminded one of a fat, burly +London butler; and his account of himself was somewhat extravagant. +"Heart was hard as stone; a great sinner; was standing in an orchard; +couldn't love God or pray; seemed as if a great light came from the sky; +got behind a tree; the light came nearer; seemed as if drawing me," &c. +&c.; ending in the happy circumstance of _his_ complete conversion; and +he sat down, his discourse producing the same agitating effects, and of +an increasing kind on all the women, specially on my fat and thin +friends. Then came another hymn, and another invitation; which was +followed by the preacher's going up to a young negress and speaking a +few words to her in a whisper; whereupon he told us, that a young +person, who had been wonderfully "dealt with by the Lord," was about to +give an account of herself. The young girl, of about twenty, black, but +pleasing-looking, advanced, and standing straight up before the +preacher, repeated to him her experience almost as if it were a lesson +she had learnt by heart. There was a cadence, or sort of chant, in her +delivery; but with the most perfect quietness of manner. She had been, +she said, a great sinner; and she then gave an account of herself at +much greater length than the others. In speaking of the difficulties +that had met her in her spiritual path, there was a very musical and +touching mournfulness in her voice that made her an object of great +interest. The men, at least, seemed to think so; for they all became +most lively, grinned gloriously, their splendid white teeth contrasting +with their dark skins; my two friends became nearly frantic, the one in +mourning especially, when shaken by the agitation of her fat friend, +writhed her body in all directions. They both began shouting, "Glory! +Glory!" with a loud voice; and finally the younger one fell forward on +her face, in a sort of trance. After a time she got back upon her seat; +but I never witnessed such a state of excitement, except once, years +ago, when I saw a young woman in an epileptic fit. All this was +evidently in a sort of small camp-meeting style. August is the month for +these meetings when out of doors; but this was a minor one. The woman in +front grinned, and even laughed outright, having great hollows or +dimples in her cheeks. The young girl was really interesting, so +perfectly calm and so modest; never looking to the right or left. She +said she felt ashamed to appear before them all, but that she should not +be ashamed to appear before God: and whenever interrupted, she resumed +the thread of her narrative with the utmost composure. She ended after a +time, but remained standing before the preacher, who was seated, and +who proceeded to examine her as to whether she thought she was _really_ +converted to God. Her answers were faint, as if from fatigue and +exhaustion, her narrative having been a very long one; but still there +was a quiet, unfaltering decision in her replies, which were given with +much humility of manner. I could not help sometimes doubting whether the +whole thing was really unprepared and extemporaneous, or whether she +might not have learnt her lesson and repeated it by rote, or whether, in +short, it might not have been a piece of acting. This impression lasted +only for a moment, for there was such an artless and modest manner in +the young girl, that I could not fail on the whole to give her the +fullest credit for sincerity, and was angry only with her black male +friends for requiring from her such a display of herself and her +feelings in a public congregation; which made me feel much for the young +girl throughout. After various warnings that she would meet with +difficulties, that she was joining a "plain set of old Baptist saints," +&c., she said she wished and desired to do so. The preacher then asked, +almost in the words of the Liturgy, "Wilt thou be baptized?" and she +answered, "I will." Whereupon he asked the congregation to show by their +hands if they approved of her being baptized; and there being a +sufficient show of hands, she was told she was duly elected as a +candidate for baptism; when another hymn being struck up in the same +vociferous style as before, we rose and left the assembly, not liking to +be longer absent from papa. We came out upon the lovely, calm, moonlight +night, so sweet, so exquisitely heavenly; and I felt how differently +nature looked without, to those distressing sights of bodily agitation +and contortion we had witnessed within. I thought of the poor young +negro girl's quiet testimony, and gentle voice and manner, and wondered +if _she_, too, would learn in time to become uproarious, and shout, +"Glory! Glory!" The probability is, that she will become like her +neighbours; for I can tell you later other stories about the necessity +these poor nigger women seem to be under to shout "Glory!" I was glad to +have seen this specimen of the camp-meeting style. + +Although I have felt it scarcely possible to describe the scene without +a certain mixture of the ludicrous, no feeling of irreverence crossed my +mind at the time. On the contrary, my sympathies were greatly drawn out +towards these our poor fellow-creatures; and there was something most +instructive in the sight of them there assembled to enjoy those highest +blessings--blessings of which no man could rob them. Religion seemed to +be to them not a mere sentiment or feeling, but a real tangible +possession; and one could read, in their appreciation of it, a lesson to +one's own heart of its power to lift man above all earthly sorrow, +privation, and degradation into an upper world, as it were, even here +below, of "joy and peace in believing." + +To-day, after posting our letters for England, papa went to General +Cass, Secretary of State for the United States, and delivered his letter +of introduction from Mr. Dallas, the American Minister in London. He had +a long and interesting interview with him. + +We went afterwards to the Capitol, and all over it, under the guidance +of our coachman, a very intelligent and civil Irishman. We were quite +taken by surprise at what we saw; for not only is the building itself, +which is of white marble, a very fine one, but the internal fittings, or +"fixings," as they perpetually call them here, show a degree of taste +for which before leaving England we had not given the Americans credit. +Two wings are now being added to the original building, and are nearly +completed; and a new and higher dome than the original one is being +built over the centre. The wings are destined to be occupied, one by the +Senate, and the other by the House of Representatives: in fact, the +House of Representatives already make use of their wing; but the Senate +will still hold another session in the old Senate House, as the Senators +have not yet quite decided upon their "fixings." The new chamber is, +however, sufficiently advanced to enable us to form a judgment of what +it will be; and although, perhaps, inferior in beauty to that of the +House of Representatives, it is in very good taste: but the room where +the Representatives meet is really most beautiful. The seats are ranged +in semi-circles, with desks before each, in much the same manner as in +Paris; which gives a more dignified appearance than the arrangement of +the seats in our House of Commons. The floors throughout a great part of +the building are in very good tesselated work, made by Minton, in +England; as the tiles made in this country do not preserve their colour +like the English ones. The ceilings of some of the passages are +beautifully decorated; and one of the committee rooms, appropriated to +agricultural matters, is remarkably well painted in fresco; all the +subjects have allusion to agricultural pursuits. In the centre of the +building, round the circular part, under the dome, are some very +indifferent pictures, representing subjects connected with the history +of America, beginning with the landing of Columbus. Two out of the eight +represented incidents in the war of independence; one being the +surrender of Lord Cornwallis, who seemed very sorry for himself. The +view from the Capitol is fine; the gardens round it are kept in good +order, and there being a great deal of maple in the woods, the redness +of the leaf gave a brilliant effect to the scene. + +From the Capitol we went to the Patent Office, in which are contained an +endless variety of models. It is immediately opposite the Post Office, +and both are splendid buildings of white marble. The Post Office is +still unfinished, but it will be of great size. The Patent-Office is an +enormous square building. The four sides, which are uniform, have large +flights of stairs on the outside, leading to porticos of Corinthian +pillars. We entered the building, and went into a large apartment, where +we were lost in contemplation of the numerous models, which we admired +exceedingly, though the shortness of the time we had to devote to them +prevented our examining them as minutely as they seemed to deserve. +Papa, indeed, was disposed to be off when we had gone through this room, +as we had still much to do, and he professed his belief that we must +have seen the whole. I, having my wits more about me, could not conceive +how this could well be the case, seeing we had only looked at one out of +four sides. There is no one in these places to show them to strangers, +so we asked a respectable-looking person if there were any more rooms, +when he replied, "Oh, yes! you have only been looking at the _rejected_ +models." Whereupon we entered on the second side of the square; but, to +confess the truth, the rejected and accepted ones seemed to us much of a +piece, and we were not sorry, on arriving at the third side, to find it +shut up and apparently empty, so we beat a retreat. We were told at +Baltimore that the collection was a very fine one, and doubtless it may +be very interesting to a person competent to judge of the details; but +the models, besides being shut up in glass-cases, and consequently very +inaccessible, were generally on too small a scale to be comprehended by +ordinary observers, and in this respect, the collection was of much less +interest to us than the exhibition we had lately seen in the unfortunate +Crystal Palace at New York, where the models exhibited were of the full +size of the machines meant to be used, and consequently almost +intelligible to an unprofessional person. Besides what may be strictly +considered models, there were in the rooms some objects more suited to +an ordinary museum. Such were various autographs, and many relics of +Washington; and a case containing locks of the hair of all the +presidents, from the time of Washington downwards. + +When mentioning our visit to General Cass, I omitted to state the +magnificence of the Treasury, which adjoins his official residence; an +enormous structure, also of white marble. We counted thirty pillars in +front, of the Ionic order, besides three more recently added on a wing, +these three pillars of great height being cut out of single blocks of +marble. We passed this building again in going from the Patent-Office to +Lord Napier's, where we had an appointment with Mr. Erskine. + +The noble mansion of England's representative is a cube of brick-work +painted dark-brown, equal in size, and very much resembling in +appearance, our own D. P. H.; but standing in a melancholy street, +without the appendages of green-house, conservatory, and gate, as in +that choice London mansion. The Honourable Secretary's apartment was +downstairs in the area, and the convenience of its proximity to the +kitchen, with the thermometer at 85 deg. in the shade, as it was to-day, was +doubtless duly appreciated by him, he having just arrived from Turin. We +found him waiting for us, and he accompanied us to the President's +residence, called the White House. It is a handsome but unpretending +building, not like its neighbours, of marble, but painted to look like +stone; the public reception-rooms are alone shown, but a good-natured +servant let us see the private rooms, and took us out on a sort of +terrace behind, where we had a lovely view of the Potomac. The house is +situated in a large garden, opposite to which, on the other side of the +road, is a handsome, and well-kept square. The house has no pretensions +about it, but would be considered a handsome country house in England; +and the inside is quite in keeping, and well furnished. The furniture is +always renewed when a new President takes possession; and as this is the +case every four years, it cannot well become shabby. + +In a line directly opposite the back of the house, and closing up the +view at the end of the gardens, stands the monument which is being +erected to Washington. This, when finished, is to be a circular +colonnaded building, 250 feet in diameter, and 100 feet high, from which +is to spring an obelisk 70 feet wide at the base, and 500 feet high, so +that, when completed, the whole will be as high as if our monument in +London were placed on the top of St. Paul's. At present nothing but its +ugly shaft is built, which has anything but a picturesque appearance, +and it is apparently likely to remain in this condition, as it is not +allowed to be touched by any but native republican hands, here a rather +scarce commodity. It is being built of white stone, one of the many +kinds found in this country. By the by, we omitted to state, in +describing the Capitol, that the balustrades of the staircases, and a +good deal of ornamental work about the building, are of marble, from a +quarry lately discovered in Tennessee, of a beautiful darkish lilac +ground, richly grained with a shade of its own colour; it is very +valuable, costing seven dollars per cubic foot. + +From the President's house we went to the Observatory, which, though +unpretending in its external appearance, is said to be the finest in the +world next to the one at St. Petersburgh; so at least says the +Washington Guide Book, for I like to give our authority for what we +ourselves should not have supposed to be the case. Mr. Erskine +introduced himself, and then us, to Lieutenant Maury, who is at the +head of it, and is well known as a writer on meteorological subjects. He +is a most agreeable man, and we talked much about the comet, meteoric +stones, &c.; we asked him what he thought of Professor Silliman's notion +about the comet's tail being an electric phenomenon, but he seemed to +think little was known on the subject. He said this comet had never been +seen before, and might never return again, as its path seemed parabolic, +and not elliptical; but he said that what was peculiarly remarkable +about it was the extreme agitation observed in the tail, and even in the +nucleus, the motion appearing to be vibratory. With regard to meteoric +stones, he said the one we saw at New Haven, though of such a prodigious +size, being 200 lbs. heavier than the one in the British Museum, was a +fragment only of a larger stone. We asked permission to go to the top of +the observatory, and at a hint from papa, I expressed the great desire I +had to see Venus by daylight, through the great telescope; whereupon, he +sent for Professor B----, and asked him to take us up to the +observatory, and to direct the great telescope to Venus. We mounted +accordingly, and I was somewhat alarmed when the whole room in which we +were placed, began to revolve upon its axis. + +Setting the telescope takes some minutes, and the Professor ejected us +from the room at the top of the building on to a balcony, from which we +had a most lovely view of the neighbouring country. By means of a very +good small telescope placed on a swivel, we could see most distinctly +the Military Retreat (the Chelsea of America), beautifully situated upon +a high hill about three miles off. We saw also through this telescope +the Smithsonian Institute, which we were glad to be able to study in +this way in detail, as we found we should not have time to go to it. It +is a very large building of the architecture of the twelfth century, and +the only attempt at Mediaeval architecture which we have seen in the +United States. + +The view of the Potomac and of the hill and buildings of George Town was +very extensive and remarkable; but before we had feasted our eyes +sufficiently on it, we were summoned to see one of the most lovely +sights I ever witnessed. Though it was mid-day, and the sun was shining +most brilliantly, we saw the exquisitely sharp crescent of Venus in the +pale sky, and about half the apparent size of the moon. The object-glass +of the instrument was divided into squares, and she passed rapidly +across the field of the telescope, sailing, as it were, in ether; by the +slightest motion of a tangent-screw of great length, we were able to +bring her back as often as we liked, to the centre of the field. This +mechanical process might, however, have been rendered unnecessary, had +the machinery attached to the instrument been wound up; for when this is +the case, if the telescope is directed to any star or point in the +heavens, it continues to point to it for the whole twenty-four hours in +succession, the machine revolving round in the plane to which it is set. +The instrument is a very powerful one, and, like the smaller one we +looked through before, was made by Fraunhofer, a famous optician at +Munich. There are some other very wonderful instruments which we had not +time to see, as we had to make desperate haste to get some dinner, and +be off by the late train to Baltimore. But before I take leave of this +subject, I must return for a minute or two to that most perfectly lovely +creature Venus. She was a true crescent; we could imagine we saw the +jagged edge of the inner side of the crescent, but the transition from +the planet to the delicate sky was so gradual, that as far as this inner +edge was concerned, this was probably only imagination. Her colouring +on this jagged side was of the most transparent silvery hue. The outer +edge was very sharply defined against the sky, and her colour shaded off +on this side to a pale golden yellow with a red or pink tint in it; this +being the side she was presenting to the sun. No words can express her +beauty. She is the planet that I told you lately looked so very large. + +On our way to the station, and in our drives about the town, we had an +opportunity of seeing the City of Washington. The town was originally +laid out by Washington himself, and divided off into streets, or rather +wide avenues, which are crossed by other streets of great breadth; but +though the streets are named, in many of them no houses are yet built, +and those that are have a mean appearance, owing to their being unsuited +in height to the great width of the streets, which are in many cases, I +should think, three times the width of Portland Place, and long in +proportion. Notwithstanding, therefore, the beauty of the public +buildings, the town greatly disappointed us. + +On our arrival at Baltimore this evening, Mr. Garrett, the principal +director of the Baltimore and Ohio Railway, called upon us and brought +with him Mr. Henry Tyson, the chief engineer, or as he is called, the +master of machinery of the road, whom he was kind enough to appoint to +go with us as far as Wheeling, the western terminus of the line. + +This is the most remarkable railway in America for the greatness of the +undertaking and the difficulties encountered in passing the Alleghanies, +which the projectors of the road could only do by crossing the range at +a height of 2700 feet, a project that most people looked upon as +visionary. We are to start to-morrow morning at eight o'clock. + +_Wheeling, Oct. 21st._--We have accomplished the great feat of passing +the Alleghanies, and Mr. Tyson has proved a Cicerone of unequalled +excellence, from his great attention to us, added to his knowledge of +the country, and his talents, which are of no ordinary kind. He is the +engineer who has invented, or at least constructed on a new plan, the +locomotives which are used upon this road: but besides being a very +clever engineer, he is remarkably well read in general literature, and +has a wonderful memory for poetry and a great knowledge of botany. + +[Illustration: Plan of Directors' car] + +Though Mr. Garrett talked of the directors' car, we presumed it was only +a common carriage such as we had been accustomed to, but appropriated to +their use; instead of this we found a beautiful car, forty feet long by +eight wide, of which the accompanying diagram shows a plan drawn to +scale. Outside: painted maroon, highly varnished with Canada balsam: the +panels picked out with dark blue. Inside: painted pure white, also +varnished. Ceiling the same, divided into small narrow panels, with +excellent ventilators at each end. Round the car there were twenty-two +windows, not shown in the plan, and three brilliant lamps in the +sitting-room and hall, and one in the bed-room; these were lighted when +passing through the tunnels. There were three hooks in the wall serving +for hat pegs, and at the same time to support two flags for signals. A +large map of the mountain pass from Cumberland to Wheeling hung over the +sofa opposite the table. The table was covered with green baize +stretched tightly over it. On the table were placed a large +blotting-book, ink, and pens, three or four daily newspapers which were +changed each day, the yearly report of the railway, a peculiar +time-table book, containing rules for the guidance of the station men, +times of freight and passenger trains meeting and passing each other, +&c. Papa has these. The sofas are covered with a pretty green Brussels +carpet (small pattern) quilted like a mattress with green buttons, +chairs covered with corded wollen stuff, not a speck or spot of ink or +smut on anything. A neat carpet, not a speck or spot on it, a sheet of +tin under and all round the stove. Pantry cupboard containing knives and +forks, spoons, and mugs. Bed-room berths much higher and wider than in a +ship. Red coloured cotton quilts, with a shawl pattern, two pillows to +each bed, pillowcases of brilliant whiteness, sofa bed larger and longer +than a German bed. White Venetian blinds occupied the places usually +filled by the door panels and window shutters. Green Brussels carpet +like the cover of the sofa; three chairs to match. The windows in the +sitting-room had grey holland curtains running on wires with very neat +little narrow strips of leather, and a black button to fasten them, and +a button and well made button-hole below to keep them from blowing about +when the window is open. Looking-glass in neat gilt frame, hung over a +semicircular console in the bed-room, another near the washhandstand, +where a towel also hangs. Two drawers for clothes, &c. under berths. +Table-cloth for meals, light drab varnished cloth, imitating leather, +very clean and pretty, china plates, and two metal plates in case of +breakages. Luncheon consisted of excellent cold corned beef, tongue, +bread and butter, Bass's ale, beer, whiskey, champagne, all Mr. Tyson's. +We supplied cold fowls, bread, and claret. The door at the end opens on +a sort of platform or balcony, surrounded by a strong high iron railing, +with the rails wide enough apart to admit a man to climb up between them +into the car, which the workmen always do to speak to Mr. Tyson. Usual +step entrance at the other end. The platform can hold three arm chairs +easily, and we three sat there yesterday evening, talking and admiring +the view. The door was always open and we were in and out constantly. +Thrower and Gaspar, a capital German man-servant, sat in the hall. +Carpet swept by Gaspar after dinner to remove crumbs. I wear neither +bonnet nor shawl, but sit at the table and work, make mems., dry red +leaves, and learn their names from Mr. Tyson. Papa is always moving +about, and calling me out constantly to admire the view from the +balcony. Yesterday on the lower ground it was much too hot in the +middle of the day to be there, and we were glad to be within the car, +and to shade the glare of the sun by means of our pretty grey curtains, +though it was cooler on the mountain. + +But I must begin to describe our road more methodically. As we wished to +get over the early part of it as expeditiously as possible, we started +by the mail train at 8.30. It will be impossible to describe at length +all the pretty places we passed, respecting each of which Mr. Tyson had +always something to say. Soon after leaving the Washington junction, we +came to a sweet spot called Ellicott's Mills, where he had spent his +boyhood, and where every rock was familiar to him. The family of +Ellicotts, who had resided there from the settlement of the country, +were his mother's relations, and by his father's side he was descended +from Lord Brooke, who was likewise one of the original settlers, the +Warwick branch of the family having remained in England. + +We first came in sight of the Blue Ridge at about forty miles from +Baltimore. During the greater part of this distance we had been +following up the Patapaco river; but soon after this, at the Point of +Rocks, we came upon the Potomac. Here the Baltimore and Ohio canal, a +work of prodigious magnitude, and the railway run side by side between +the river and very high cliffs, though the space apparently could afford +room only for one of them. We reached Harper's Ferry a little after +twelve, and the view is certainly splendid. Mr. Tyson had made +arrangements to give the passengers a little extra time for dinner, that +he might take us to see the view from the heights above without +materially detaining the train; but the sun was so powerful that we were +glad to limit our walk in order to see a little in detail the bridge +over which we had just passed in the railway cars. It is a very +wonderful work, but not so remarkable for its length as for its peculiar +structure, the two ends of it being curved in opposite directions, +assuming the form of the letter S. It passes not only over the river but +over the canal, and before it reaches the western bank of the river it +makes a fork, one road going straight on, and the other, which we went +upon, forming the second bend of the S. + +The curves in the railway are very sharp, and a speed of thirty-five +miles an hour is kept up in going round those which have a radius of 600 +feet. This, and repeatedly recurring ascents of a very steep grade, +require engines which unite great power with precision in the +movements, and these are admirably combined in Mr. Tyson's engines; +which, moreover, have the advantage of entirely consuming their own +smoke, and we had neither sparks nor cinders to contend with. The common +rate of travelling, where the road is level, is forty miles an hour, and +at this rate each engine will take eighteen cars with 2600 passengers. + +The difficulties they have to contend with on this road are greatly +increased by the snow drifts in winter. Mr. Tyson told us that on one +occasion the snow had accumulated in one night, by drifts, to fourteen +feet in the cuts, and it required ten freight engines of 200-horse power +each, or 2000-horse power altogether, to clear it away. Three hundred +men were employed, and the wind being bitterly cold, hardly any escaped +being frost-bitten. One of the tenders was completely crushed up by the +force applied; and in the middle of the night, with the snow still +driving, and in a piercing wind, they had to clear away the wreck: +nineteen engines, called snow ploughs, are kept solely to clear away the +snow. + +At five o'clock we reached Cumberland, where we slept. After dinner we +walked out in the most lovely night possible to see the town, and the +moon being nearly full, we saw the valley as distinctly almost as by +daylight. There is a great gap here in the mountain, which forms a +prominent feature in the landscape, and a church on the summit of a high +hill rendered the picture almost perfect. We here saw the comet for the +last time. + +Next morning, the 20th October, we started early, in order to be able to +take the mountain pass more leisurely, attached ourselves at 6.15 to the +express train, and reached Piedmont at 7.30. During this part of our +journey we continued to follow up the Potomac, but here we left it to +follow up the Savage river, and for seventeen miles continued to ascend +to Altamont, where we attained the summit level of 2700 feet above the +sea. We cast ourselves off from the express at Piedmont, and afterwards +tacked ourselves on to a train which left Piedmont at eight o'clock, and +got to Altamont at 9.45; these seventeen miles occupied an hour and +three quarters, the grade for eleven miles out of the seventeen being +116 feet per mile. + +It is almost impossible to describe the beauty of the scenery here. The +road goes in a zig-zag the whole way. We passed several substantial +viaducts across the Savage river, often at a great height above the +valley, and on many occasions, when the road made one of its rapid +turns, a vista of many miles up the gorges was obtained. + +Of course the greatest skill is required in driving the engine up what +is called the "Mountain Division." We mounted on the locomotive, to have +a more perfect view of the ascent. This locomotive is very different to +an English one, as the place where the driver sits is enclosed on three +sides with glass, so as to shelter him and those with him from the +weather. Mr. Tyson thought it necessary to drive a small part of the way +himself; but after that, he resigned his position, as will be seen by +the following certificate, to one equally qualified for an emergency, +though hitherto his peculiar talent in that line had not been developed. + + + "Baltimore and Ohio Railway, Machinery Department. + "Baltimore, Oct. 21st, 1858. + + "This is to certify that Mr. A. T. has occupied the position of + 'Locomotive Engineer,' on the _Mountain Division_ (3rd) of the + Baltimore and Ohio Railroad. + + "The term of his occupation has been characterised by a close + attention to his duties, and consequent freedom from accidents. + + (Signed) "HENRY TYSON, + "Master of Machinery, + "Baltimore and Ohio R. R. Co." + + +Papa, in fact, drove the engine a considerable way up the steepest part +of the ascent, and as the driver must command an uninterrupted view of +the road before him, he had a capital opportunity of seeing the country. +Thrower and I sat on a seat behind him; but he alone had the full view, +as the chimney of the engine rather obstructed ours in front, though on +each side we saw perfectly. The whistle of the engine, when so close to +our ears, was splendid, or perhaps you would have said, terrific. + +From Altamont to Cranberry Summit, where the descent begins, there is a +comparatively level country, called the Glades, which are beautiful +natural meadows undulating and well cultivated, with high ranges of +mountains, generally at no great distance from the road, but varying a +good deal in this respect, so as sometimes to leave a considerable plain +between it and the range. From these glades numerous valleys diverge, +and, in looking down these, splendid vistas are obtained. The verdure +even now is very bright, and the streams, which are everywhere to be +seen, are remarkably clear and pure; so that although the interest of +the road was less absorbing than when we were ascending the mountains, +it was still very great. From Cranberry Summit the distant views to the +westward were quite magnificent. + +We now entered on what is called the "Cheat River Region," and the +descent to Grafton (a distance of thirty miles) is even more beautiful +than the ascent to Altamont. To give you some slight idea of the nature +of the road and of the scenery, I enclose a photograph of one of the +bridges over the Cheat River. This is called the Tray Run Viaduct, and +it is 640 feet long; the masonry is seventy-eight feet high, and the +iron-work above that is eighty feet. The road here is about seven +hundred feet above the river, which runs in the valley below. This +river, the Cheat, is a dark, rapid, mountain stream, the waters of which +are almost of a coffee-colour, owing, it is said, to its rising in +forests of laurel and black spruce, with which the high lands here +abound. + +We passed hereabouts many curious-looking log houses, a photograph of +one of which we enclose.[7] You will observe the man with a cradle by +his side, and his whip, gun, bottle, jar, &c., also the chimney, which +is a remarkable structure, consisting of a barrel above a heap of +stones, showing the resources of the West. + +Before reaching Grafton, we passed the Great Kingwood tunnel, which is +much thought of in America, being 4100 feet in length, though it is +greatly beat by many of our tunnels in England; but tunnels are rare in +America, as the roads generally run through the valleys. + +We reached Grafton at four o'clock, and had a lovely afternoon to +explore the beauties of the neighbourhood. We went into a number of +cottages and log-huts, and were delighted with the people; but the +details of our Grafton visit must be given to you _viva voce_ on our +return. The night was brilliant, and it was one o'clock in the morning +before we took our last look of the moonlit valley, and of the rivers +which here joined their streams almost under the windows of our rooms. + +We may mention that in this day's journey, we passed the source of the +Monongahela, the chief branch of what afterwards becomes the Ohio. It is +here a tiny little clear stream, winding through the glades we have +spoken of. + +On Thursday morning, though it was past one before we went to bed, I was +up at six, as soon as it was light, to make a sketch from our bed-room +window, which will give you hereafter some notion of the scene, though +neither description nor drawing can convey any real idea of it. After +breakfast, papa and I and Thrower went up a tolerably steep hill to the +cottage of three old ladies, whose characters I had an opportunity of +studying while papa went on with the guide to the Great National or +State Turnpike Road, or "Pike Road" as they called it, which used to be +the connecting link between Washington and Southern Virginia. Though +much disused it is still well kept up. After going along it for some +distance, papa struck up to the top of a high hill, from whence he had a +magnificent view of the valleys on both sides of the ridge he was on, +and he was surprised to find what large tracts of cultivated ground were +visible, while to those below there seemed nothing but forest-covered +mountains, but between these he could see extensive glades, where every +patch was turned to account. This we afterwards saw from other parts of +the road. + +While papa was taking his hasty walk, Thrower and I sat down in the +log-hut where these three old spinster sisters had lived all their +lives. They were quite characters, and cultivated their land entirely +with their own hands; though, when we asked their ages, two of them said +they were "in fifty," and one "in sixty;" they were most intelligent and +agreeable, and two looked very healthy; but the third had just had a +severe illness, and looked very ill. One was scraping the Indian corn +grains off the cob, using another cob to assist her in the work; we +watched the beautifully-productive plant, and admired its growth. Their +cottage or hut looked quite comfortable, and there were substantial log +stables and farm-buildings adjoining. When the weather permitted, they +got down the hill to Grafton to the Methodist meeting. There is no +Episcopal church there yet, excepting a Roman Catholic one, to which +they will not go, though they speak with thankfulness of the kindness +they have received from the priest. + +They said their father used to tell them to read their Bible, do their +duty, and learn their way to heaven, and this they wished to do. They +were honest, straightforward good women, and _ladies_ in their minds, +though great curiosities to look at. + +This walk, and our subsequent explorings in Grafton, occupied the whole +forenoon, the temptation to pick the red leaves and shake the trees for +hickory nuts being very great, and having greatly prolonged the time +which our walk occupied. But the village itself, for it is no more, +though, having a mayor, it calls itself a city, had great objects of +interest, and is a curious instance of what a railway will do in +America to _make_ a town; for it scarcely had any existence three years +ago, and is now full of artificers and others employed in the railway +works, all fully occupied, and earning excellent wages. + +The people marry so early that the place was almost overflowing with +children, who certainly bore evidence in their looks to the healthiness +of the climate. + +This being a slave state, there was a sprinkling of a black population; +and among the slaves we were shocked by observing a little girl, with +long red ringlets and a skin exquisitely fair, and yet of the proscribed +race, which made the institution appear more revolting in our eyes than +anything we have yet seen. The cook at the hotel was a noble-looking +black, tall and well-made, and so famous for his skill at omelettes, +that we begged him to give us a lesson on the subject, which he +willingly did. I asked him if he were a slave, and he replied, making me +a low bow, "No, ma'am, I belong to myself." The little red-haired girl +was a slave of the mistress of the hotel. + +We again linked ourselves on to a train which came up at about one +o'clock, and at Benton's Ferry, about twenty miles from Grafton, we +crossed the Monongahela, over a viaduct 650 feet long; the iron bridge, +which consists of three arches of 200 feet span each, being the longest +iron bridge in America. Though the water was not very deep, owing to a +recent drought, it was curious to see the little stream of yesterday +changed into an already considerable river, almost beating any we can +boast of in England. + +We now began to wind our way down the ravine called Buffalo Creek, which +we passed at Fairmont, over a suspension bridge 1000 feet long. The road +still continued very beautiful, and was so all the way to this place, +Wheeling, which we reached at about six o'clock. The last eleven miles +was up the banks of the _real_ Ohio, for the Monongahela, after we last +left it, takes a long course northward, and after being joined at +Pittsburg by the Alleghany, a river as large as itself, the two together +there, form the Ohio. From Pittsburg to where we first saw it, it had +come south more than 100 miles, and at Wheeling it is so broad and deep +as to be covered with magnificent steamers; there were five in front of +our hotel window, and most singular-looking they were, with their one +huge wheel behind, scarcely touching the water, and their two tall +funnels in front. They tower up to a great height, and are certainly +the most splendid-looking steamers we ever saw. + +We here left our valued friend Mr. Tyson, who after calling on us at the +hotel in the evening, was to return at ten o'clock to Baltimore. We +certainly never enjoyed a journey more. He is the most entertaining man +you can imagine, full of anecdotes and good stories; and, as we have +said before, with such a marvellous memory, that he could repeat whole +passages of poetry by heart. His knowledge too of botany was delightful, +for there was not a plant or weed we passed of which he could not only +tell the botanical and common name, but its history and use. He has +travelled much, having been employed in mining business in the Brazils. +He has also been in the West Indies, in England, Scotland, and Ireland, +and on the Continent of Europe. + +We had a pleasing variety in occasional visitors to the car; for not +only the work-people on the road, as I have said, got up behind to speak +to Mr. Tyson, and were always received by him in the most friendly +manner, being men of high calibre in point of intelligence, but we had +at different times a Dr. Orr, a physician and director of the railway, +who was on the engine with us to set our bones, if papa had capsized us +and the doctor had escaped; also a Dr. Gerbard, a German surgeon, with +a scar on his cheek from a duel at college in his youth. Dr. Orr was +accompanied by a lady, with whom I conversed a good deal, and found she +was the owner of many slaves; but I must write you a chapter on slavery +another time. All the last day of our journey from Grafton to Wheeling, +was through Virginia, and the rural population were chiefly slaves. The +two doctors I have mentioned were our visitors yesterday. To-day, we had +throughout with us Mr. Rennie (Mr. Tyson's assistant), and also Major +Barry, an agent of the Company, and an officer in the United States +service, who in the last Indian war captured with his own hand, Black +Hawk, the great Indian Chief, in Illinois. He is an Irishman by birth, +and had been in our service at the battle of Waterloo, but he left the +British army, and entered the United States service in 1818. He was very +intelligent and agreeable. Our last visitor was Colonel Moore, also an +agent of the company; a most gentleman-like man. This will show you what +a superior set of men are employed on American railways. + +Among the men who spoke to us as we stood on our balcony, was a +delightful character, a nigger. I heard Mr. Tyson look over and say, +"Jerry, why did you not tell me you were going to get married?" Up came +Jerry, looking the very picture of a happy bridegroom, having been +married the evening before to a dark widow considerably older than +himself. He was quite a "get up" in his dress, with boots of a +glistening blackness. He answered, "I sent you an invitation, Mr. Tyson, +and left it at your office." He was nothing daunted by his interesting +position in life, and had a week's holiday in honour of the event. He +was, to use his own expression, a "'sponsible nigger," though he was +actually only cleaner up, and carpet sweeper in the office, negroes +never being allowed to have any charge in the working of the line, or a +more "'sponsible" station than that connected with the office work, +though in that they are often confidentially employed in carrying money +to the bank, &c. + +_Columbus, Friday 22nd._--It began to rain last night, and continued to +pour to-day till ten o'clock, so that we had no opportunity of seeing +much of the town of Wheeling, but our rooms looked on to the Ohio, and +were within a stone's throw of it. Another great steamer had come up in +the night, so there were _six_ now lying in front of the windows, +looking like so many line-of-battle ships. + +We found that Jerry and his lady slept at our hotel, and I sent for them +next morning to speak to us. She was smartly dressed in a dark silk, +with a richly embroidered collar and pocket handkerchief, which she +carefully displayed, and a large brooch. He wore a turn-down collar to +his shirt, of the most fashionable cut; the shirt itself had a pale blue +pattern on it, and a diamond (?) shirt pin, the shirt having a frill _en +jabot_. His face was shining and glistening with cleanliness and +happiness, and she looked up to him as if she were very proud of her +young husband. He said he was very happy, and I complimented her on her +dress, and asked her if she had bought much for the occasion, and she +admitted that she had. I asked her where they went to church (all +niggers are great worshippers somewhere, and generally are Methodists); +and he said he went to the "Methodist Church," that his wife was a +member, and I encouraged him to continue going regularly. He said he had +married her for the purpose of doing so, and evidently looked up to her +as a teacher in these matters. They said they could both read printed +characters, but not writing, and that they read their Bibles. I asked +him if there were any other cars on the line like Mr. Tyson's, and he +said, "Yes, several, miss." "Are they handsomer than his?" "Some are, +they are all different in their fancy principle." He told us, of his own +accord, that they had both been slaves. He bought his freedom for five +hundred dollars. They both had been kindly treated as slaves, but he +said, not only the hickory stick, but the "raw hide," was frequently +used by unkind masters and mistresses; and, on my asking him whether +slaves had any redress in such cases, he said their free friends may try +to get some redress for them, but it does no good. This was _his_ +testimony on the subject, and I shall give you the testimony of every +one as I gather it for you to put together, that you may be able to form +your own deductions. Mr. Tyson had told us they _had_ redress, though he +is an enemy to the "institution" of slavery, as it is here called, but +still maintains, what is no doubt the case, that they are oftener much +happier in America than the free negro. Indeed he told us a well-treated +slave will look down on a freeman, and say, "_Ah! yes, he's only some +poor free trash. He's a poor white free trash._" It was curious to +notice Jerry's sayings, only some of which I can remember. Mr. Tyson +looked down the line from the balcony yesterday, and said, to Jerry, who +had got out of a passenger car for a minute, "Jerry, do you see the +train coming?" "Yes, sir; it blowed right up there;" meaning it had +whistled. I will write to you more at large ere long about slavery, when +I have not topics pressing on time and pen. + +We left our hotel this morning at eight o'clock, and even in the omnibus +noticed the improved and very intelligent appearance of the men. They +answered us quickly, cheerfully, and to the purpose; many wore large +picturesque felt hats of various forms. It is true that, on starting, we +were still in Virginia, of which Wheeling is one of the largest towns; +but the bulk of our fellow-passengers were evidently from the West; they +are chiefly descendants of the New Englanders, and partake of their +character, with the exception of the nasal twang, which is worse in New +England than anywhere else in America, and we are now losing the sound +of it. The omnibus made a grand circuit of the town to pick up +passengers, and thus gave us the only opportunity we had of seeing +something of it. It rained in torrents, and this probably made it look +more dismal than usual, but it certainly is much less picturesque and +more English-looking than any town we have yet seen. The coal and iron, +which constitute its chief trade, give it a very dirty appearance; but +its natural situation, stretching along the banks of the Ohio, which are +here very high on both sides, is very beautiful. The omnibus at last +crossed the river by a very fine suspension bridge, and, having left the +slave states behind us, we found ourselves in the free State of Ohio. + +On the opposite side of the river we entered the cars of the Ohio +Central Railroad, but alas! we had no Mr. Tyson, and no sofas or tables +or balconies, and were again simple members of the public, destined to +enjoy all the tortures of the common cars. These however were in +first-rate style, with velvet seats, and prettily painted, with +brilliant white panelled ceilings; and we here fell in again, to my no +small comfort, with the venders of fruit and literature, or "pedlaring," +as it is called, which forms a pleasant break in the tedium of a long +journey. I have been often told the reverse, but the literature sold in +this way is, as far as we have seen, rather creditable than otherwise to +the country, being generally of an instructive and useful character. +Many works published quite recently in England, could be bought either +in the cars or at the stores; and some of the better class of English +novels are reprinted in America, and sold at the rate of two or three +shillings a volume. The daily newspapers, sold on the railways, are +numerous; but these, with very few exceptions, are quite unworthy of the +country. In general there are no articles worth reading, for they are +filled with foolish and trashy anecdotes, written, apparently, by +penny-a-liners of the lowest order of ability. The magazines, and some +of the weekly illustrated papers, are a degree better, but a great deal +of the wit in these is reproduced from "Punch." + +The first eighty-two miles to Zanesville were through a pretty and hilly +country. The hills were as usual covered with woods of every hue, so +that though the scenery was inferior to what we had been passing through +for the last few days, it was still very beautiful. Zanesville, which is +a considerable town, is situated on the Muskingham river. This fine +broad stream must add considerably to the waters of the Ohio, into which +it falls soon after leaving Zanesville. + +At Zanesville, after partaking of an excellent dinner, we were joined by +an intelligent woman, returning home, with her little baby of ten weeks +old, from a visit she had just been making to her mother. Her own home +is in Missouri, and her husband being the owner of a farm of 500 acres, +she was able to give us a good deal of information about the state of +agriculture in the Far West. I learnt much from her on various subjects, +and was much surprised at the quick sharp answers she gave to all my +questions. She was well dressed, something in the style of the English +lady's maid, was evidently well to do, and was travelling night and day +with her merry little baby. She possesses one slave of fourteen, for +whom she gave four hundred dollars, whom she has had from infancy; she +brings her up as her own, and this black girl is now taking care of her +other children in her absence. I asked, "What do the slaves eat?" +"Everything: corn-bread, that's the most." Papa said, "It is a great +shame making Missouri a slave state." + +_Woman._ "Ah yes; keeps it back." + +_Self._ "Have you good health?"--many parts being said to be unhealthy. + +_Woman._ A quick nod. "First-rate." + +_Self._ "Did your mother give you the hickory stick?" + +_Woman._ "No: the switch:--raised me on the rod of correction." + +_Self._ "Had your husband the farm before you married?" + +_Woman._ "His father had 'entered it,' and he gave my husband money, and +my mother gave me money, and then we married and 'entered it' +ourselves." + +All these answers came out with the utmost quickness and intelligence. +She is an Irish Roman Catholic, her mother having brought her as a baby +from Ireland, her husband is also Irish; but they are now Americans of +the Far West in their manner and singular intelligence, beating even the +clever Irish in this respect. + +I said: "Do you pray much to the Virgin Mary in your part of America?" + +_Woman._ "No: don't notice her much." + +_Self._ "I am glad of that." + +_Woman._ "We respect her as the mother of God." + +She said the corn on the road-side we were then passing was far inferior +to western produce, that it ought to be much taller, and that if it were +so, the ear would be much larger and fuller. Our English wheat is never +called corn, but simply wheat; and the other varieties oats, rye, &c., +are called by their different names, but the generic term _corn_, in +America, always means Indian corn. It is necessary to know this in order +to prevent confusion in conversation. This woman's name was Margaret +M.; she was twenty-seven years of age, but looked younger; her husband, +James M., was thirty-six. + +I asked her whether he was tall or short. "Oh tall, of course. I +wouldn't have had a poor short man." So we looked at papa, and laughed, +and said our tastes were the same. She was a most agreeable companion. +She noticed that I was reading a novel by the author of "John Halifax," +which I had bought, the whole three volumes, for 1_s._ 6_d._, and said, +"Ah! that's the sort of reading I like. That's a novel; but my priest +tells me not to read that kind, that it fills me with silly thoughts; +but to read something to make me more intelligent." I thought there +seemed no deficiency in this respect, but agreed that the advice was +good, and said that I had bought this for cheapness, and for being +portable, it being in the pamphlet form; and that I was so interrupted +with looking at the lovely scenery when travelling, that I could not +take in anything deeper. + +We wished each other good bye, and she wished me a happy meeting again +with our children. And now papa says this must be closed, and it +certainly has attained to no mean length, so I will not begin another +sheet, and hope you will not be wearied with this long chapter. + +FOOTNOTE: + +[7] These photographs cannot be reproduced here, which I regret, as they +were very well done. + + + + +LETTER IX. + + + JOURNEY FROM WHEELING TO COLUMBUS.--FIRE IN THE MOUNTAINS.--MR. + TYSON'S STORIES.--COLUMBUS.--PENITENTIARY.--CAPITOL.--GOVERNOR + CHASE.--CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS.--ARRIVAL AT CINCINNATI. + + + Columbus, Oct. 23rd, 1858. + +The letter which I sent you from this place this morning will have told +you of our arrival here, but it was closed in such haste that I omitted +many things which I ought to have mentioned. It, moreover, carried us +only to Zanesville, and I ought to have told you that the view continued +very pretty all the way to this place, and the day having cleared up at +noon, we had a brilliant evening to explore this town. + +Before describing Columbus, however, I shall go back to some omissions +of a still older date; for I ought to have told you of a grand sight we +saw the day we passed the Alleghany Ridge. On the preceding evening Mr. +Tyson received a telegraphic message to say that an extensive fire was +raging in the forest; it is supposed to have been caused by some people +shooting in the woods. It must have been a grand sight to the +passengers by the train from which we had separated, and which went on +during the night through the scene of the conflagration, for the fire +was much more extensive than those which are constantly taking place, +and which are passed by unheeded,--unhonoured with a telegraphic notice. +When we passed by the place next morning it was still burning +vigorously, but the daylight rendered the flames almost imperceptible. +It was curious, however, to see the volumes of smoke, which we first +perceived in a hollow. The fire was then travelling down the side of the +mountain; and long after we passed the immediate spot we saw the fire +winding about the mountains, spreading greatly, in the direction of the +wind and making its way even against it, though it was blowing with +considerable violence. The people in the neighbourhood were busily +employed in trying to save their hayricks from destruction. Mr. Tyson +said they would probably succeed in this, though the whole of the forest +was likely to be burnt, as the fire would wind about among the mountains +and pass from one to another for perhaps two months, unless a heavy rain +put it out. This we hope has been the case, as it poured in torrents all +the following night when we were at Wheeling. + +Another circumstance we ought to have mentioned was our passing through +a very long tunnel, called the Board Tree Tunnel, about 340 miles from +Baltimore. This tunnel, after having fallen in, has only been repaired +within the last two months. The history of this catastrophe, and of the +mode of remedying it, forms quite an incident in the history of the +railway, and shows with what resolution difficulties in this country are +overcome. To reopen the tunnel it was clear would be a work of time, so +Mr. Tyson resolved to run a new temporary railway for three miles over +the mountain which had been tunnelled, and this was accomplished by 3000 +men in ten days. We saw the place where this road had passed, and the +zig-zag line by which the mountain was crossed. The road seems +positively to overhang the precipice, and reminded me of a mountain pass +in Switzerland--as, indeed, the whole of the road here does. Mr. Tyson +himself drove the first train over, and he said his heart was in his +mouth when, having got to the top, he saw the descent before him, and +the engine and train on a precipice where the least _contretemps_ would +have plunged the whole into the abyss below; but happily all went right, +and till within the last two months this temporary road has been used. +It was really quite frightful to look up and think a train could pass +over such a place, the grade being 420 feet in a mile, or 1 in 121/2; but +you will one day be able to form some idea of it, as a photograph was +taken, and Mr. Tyson will give us a copy of it. This is certainly a +wonderful country for great enterprises, and the Pennsylvania Central +Railway, by which we contemplate recrossing the Alleghanies, is in some +respects a still more remarkable undertaking, though the height at which +the mountains are crossed on that line is not so great as that on the +Baltimore and Ohio line, which, as I told you in my last, is at an +elevation of 2700 feet. It was long supposed that such a feat could not +be surpassed, but Mr. Tyson says that, encouraged by this, a railway now +crosses the Tyrolean Alps at a somewhat higher level. + +To return, however, to the Board Tree Tunnel: Mr. Tyson told us that the +difficulty of restoring it to a safe condition was so great as almost to +dishearten him till he had arched it completely over from one end to the +other with solid stone masonry, which has rendered the recurrence of the +accident impossible; but the disheartening circumstance, while the work +was in progress, was the danger to which the men employed in the work +were exposed, from the constant falling in of the roof. During its +progress no less than forty-five men were killed, and about 400 severely +wounded. They were chiefly Roman Catholics, and were it not for the +encouragement given by an energetic Roman Catholic priest, he hardly +thinks the men would have continued the work. The doctor, too, who +attended the wounded, and whom we saw at breakfast at Grafton, was also +most devoted to them. It was quite touching to hear the tender-hearted +way in which Mr. Tyson spoke of the poor sufferers, for he was +constantly there, and often saw them go in to almost certain death. He +mentioned one poor widow to whom he had just sent three hundred dollars +as a gift from the railway. + +Before leaving the subject of Mr. Tyson, I must tell you one or two of +his good stories. I had been telling him of the negro meeting, which I +described to you in my last. In it I told you how the negroes had cried +out "glory! glory!" from which it appears it is almost impossible that +they can refrain. In corroboration of this he told us of a nigger woman +who was sold from a Baptist to a Presbyterian family. In general slaves +adopt, at once, the habits and doctrines of their new owners; but this +poor woman could not restrain herself, and greatly disturbed the +Presbyterian congregation, by shouting out "glory! glory!" in the +middle of the service. Next morning the minister sent for her and +rebuked her for this unseemly interruption of his sermon; but she said +doggedly, "Can't help it, sir; I'm all full of glory; must shout it +out." Many of his amusing stories were about Irish labourers employed on +the road. One of these, whose duty it was to show a light at the station +as the train passed, failed one night to do so, and was seen asleep. The +man who drove the engine threw a cinder at him as he passed, to awake +him; but, instead of hitting him, the cinder broke his lamp glass. All +this was told to Mr. Tyson, and also that the man was very angry at his +lamp being broken. When Mr. T. went down the line next day, he stopped +to lecture him, and the following colloquy ensued:-- + +_Mr. Tyson._ "Well, your lamp was broke, I hear, yesterday." + +_Irishman._ "O, yes sir;" (terrified out of his life at the scolding he +feared was coming, for he saw that Mr. Tyson knew all about it;) "but I +forgive the blackguards intirely, sir, I _quite_ forgive them." + +Mr. T. kept his counsel, said nothing more, and the lamp has never +failed since; but half the merit of this story depended on Mr. Tyson's +way of telling it. He was deliciously graphic also, and full of witty +sayings of his own. When, for example, I showed him my photograph of +your little brother, he exclaimed, "Well, he _is_ a fine fellow; HE +don't mind if corn is five dollars a bushel." I think you will all +appreciate this as a perfect description of the unconcern of a healthy +intelligent-looking child, unconscious of the anxieties of those about +him; but I must reserve his other good sayings and stories till we meet. + +To-day we have been most busily employed, for Mr. Garrett, our railway +friend at Baltimore, not only did us the good service of sending us by +the car under Mr. Tyson's auspices, but gave us letters of introduction +both to this place and to Cincinnati; and his letters here to Mr. Neil +and Mr. Dennison have been of great use to us, as one or the other of +them has been in attendance upon us since 11 o'clock this morning, +together with a very pleasing person, a widow, niece of Mr. Neil, and +they have shown us the town in first-rate style. + +Columbus is built on the banks of the Sciota, about 90 miles from the +point where it falls into the Ohio. It is the capital of the State, and +its streets, like those of Washington, have been laid out with a view to +its becoming one day a town of importance; but as the preparations for +this, though on a considerable scale, are not so great as at +Washington, the non-completion of the plan in its full extent produces +no disagreeable effect. In fact, the streets where finished are +completely so, and the unfinished parts consist of an extension of +these, in the shape of long avenues of trees. In the principal streets +the houses are not continuous, but in detached villas, and, judging by +the one in which Mr. Neil lives, appear to be very comfortable +residences. He and his niece called upon us yesterday evening, and, +although he is an elderly gentleman, he was here by appointment this +morning at half-past 8, and took papa to call on Mr. Dennison, when they +arranged together the programme for the day. + +At 11 o'clock Mr. Dennison called, and took us to the Penitentiary, +where nearly 700 prisoners are confined. I think he said 695, although +it will hold the full number of 700 if need be. For the credit of the +sex, I must say that only ten out of the whole are females. These ten +are lodged each in a small room, for it can scarcely be called a cell, +very well furnished, and opening into a large sitting-room, of which +they all have the unrestrained use, although the presence of a matron +puts a restraint on their tongues. They were employed in needlework. The +cells of the men are arranged in tiers, and are certainly very +different looking habitations to those of the women, and greatly +inferior in size and airiness to the cells at Philadelphia, where, in +addition to the grating in front of the cell, there was a door behind +leading into a small enclosure or court. Here the only opening in the +cell is by a door into a long gallery, and the cells were much smaller +than either at Philadelphia or at Kingston; but the prisoners only +inhabit these cells at night, the solitary system not being adopted or +approved of here. + +The silent system, however, is practised here as at Kingston, and the +prisoners are employed in large workshops, chiefly in making +agricultural instruments, hoops for casks, saddles, carpenters' tools, +and even rocking horses and toys, which must be rather heart-breaking +work for those who have children. The men have certain tasks allotted +them, and when the day's work is done, may devote the rest of their time +to working on their own account, which most of them do; the chief warden +told us that he had lately paid a man, on his leaving the prison, a +hundred and twenty-five dollars for extra work done in this way. The +warden told us that the men, when discharged, were always strongly urged +to return to their own homes instead of seeking to retrieve their +characters elsewhere, and that their doing so was generally attended +with a better result than when they went to a new place and had no check +on their proceedings. This does away with the chief argument of our +quaker friend at Philadelphia, in favour of the solitary system, which +was, that the prisoner's return to his friends became more easy, when +none of them knew that he had been in prison, of which they could not +well be ignorant if he had mixed with other prisoners in a public jail. +It must be borne in mind, however, that the great demand in this country +for work renders it much more easy for a person so circumstanced to +obtain employment, even with a damaged character, than in England, where +our ticket-of-leave men find this almost impossible. There is also, we +are told, a kinder feeling towards prisoners here on their leaving the +jail than in England, and this saves them from the want and consequent +temptation to which our English ticket-of-leave men are exposed; the +result is that a much less proportion of those released in America are +re-committed for new offences. + +We visited the workshops, and afterwards went into a large court to see +the men defile in gangs, and march into their dining hall, in which we +afterwards saw them assembled at dinner, and a capital savoury dinner +it seemed to be. They have as much bread as they choose to eat, and meat +twice a day; their drink is water, except when the doctor orders it +otherwise. There are chaplains, called here Moral Instructors, who visit +them and perform the service in the chapel, and evening schools are +provided, at which the chaplains attend to teach reading, writing, and +arithmetic. A library of books of general information is provided for +the prisoner's use, and to each a Bible is given, and they are allowed +to buy sound and useful books. They have each a gas lamp in their cell, +which enables them to read there when their work is done, and they are +allowed to see their friends in the presence of an officer. Sixty of the +prisoners were Negroes, which is a large proportion when compared with +the total numbers of the white and black population, especially as the +blacks are often let off, owing to the leniency of the committing +magistrates who have compassion on their inferior intelligence; and it +is owing, it is said, to a like leniency that there are so few females, +though certainly not for the same reason. There are a large number of +Irish in the prison. + +Our next visit, still under Mr. Dennison's escort, was to the Capitol or +State House, a very fine building of white limestone. The facade is more +than 300 feet long, and the height nearly 160 feet to the top of the +dome. This however has not yet been completed. The architecture is +Grecian. Here, as at Washington, are Halls for the Senate and House of +Representatives, in equally good taste and somewhat similarly arranged. +Mr. Dennison, who had once been a member of the Senate, was repudiating +the accounts so commonly given of the behaviour of the senators, when +Mr. Niel came in, and over-hearing what he was saying, begged to remark +that when they "went to work" they usually divested themselves of their +coats without substituting any senatorial garment in its place; and +putting his legs on the desk before the chair, he declared that such was +the usual posture in which they listened to the oratory of the place.[8] + +We afterwards went through the apartments appropriated to the Treasurer +and Auditor of the State, the two chief officers of the Government, +which are very capacious and well fitted up--and we were specially +introduced to both these functionaries; Mr. Neil, who is somewhat of a +wag, was rather jocose with them, and high as their position here is, +they very cordially retaliated on him. We next went to those +appropriated to the Governor of the State, General Chase, in order that +we might be introduced to him, but he was out, which we regretted. He is +a candidate to succeed Mr. Buchanan as President. The remainder of the +building was occupied by numerous committee-rooms, by the courts of law, +the judges' apartments, a law library, and a beautiful room intended for +a general library, but in which the collection of books at present is +very small. On the whole the building and its contents are very +creditable to this, the largest and wealthiest of the States in the +West, considering that forty years ago the country here was a wild +forest region where no tree had been cut down. + +_25th October._--We have seen Columbus well, and it has much to attract +attention. On Saturday we went from the Capitol to the Lunatic Asylum, +but excepting in its being more pleasingly arranged than the one at +Utica, there was nothing very striking in its appearance. The galleries +in which the patients were walking were prettily decorated with flowers +cut out in paper, giving it a very gay appearance; and when the +patients become desponding, they have a dance in the great hall, to +revive them. The matron who went round with us said that the men and +women conduct themselves on these occasions with perfect propriety. The +men and women are otherwise so entirely separated in this Asylum that +papa went round to the men's wards with the doctor, while I was taken +round by the matron to those appropriated to the women. We thought it a +pleasant, cheerful-looking place, considering the melancholy object to +which it is devoted. + +The next sight we saw was, the Asylum for the Deaf and Dumb: being +Saturday, we could not see the mode of tuition, but we have gone through +it this morning, and yesterday we attended the afternoon service there, +so that in our three visits we have been able to form a pretty good idea +of the system carried out. They have an alphabet by which they can spell +words, which they do by using one hand only. They speak thus with +considerable rapidity, but this method is confined almost entirely to +express proper names and words of uncommon use, as the whole +conversation is carried on in general by signs, and it was most +beautiful to see the graceful manner in which the matron spoke to them. +As this system of signs does not represent words, but _things_ and +_ideas_, it has the great advantage of being universally understood when +taught, and as the same system is adopted in several countries of +Europe, in Norway and Sweden for example, a Norwegian and American child +can converse easily together without either knowing a syllable of the +other's language. It seems quite as rapid as talking. + +We were present at the afternoon sermon, which lasted about half an +hour, the subject being that of Simeon in the Temple, and except to +express Simeon's name, there was no use at all made of the fingers. Dr. +Stone, the principal, had preached in the morning on the subject of +Daniel's interpretation of Nebuchadnezzar's dream, and when we went, the +children were being examined on the subject of this lecture. We _saw_ a +number of questions asked, but in this case the words were spelled in +order that Dr. Stone, who was teaching them, might be satisfied that +they understood the full meaning of the question in its grammatical +sense, as well as its general signification, and the answers were all +written down on large black boards. They wrote with prodigious rapidity +in large distinct writing--and the answers, which were all different and +showed they were not got up by rote, were in most cases very good. This +was being done by the eldest class, and some of the elder boys and girls +seemed full of intelligence. We saw minutely only what was going on in +this and in the youngest class, which was no less remarkable, +considering that some of the children had not been more than two or +three months in the Asylum, and when they came there had no idea of +either reading or writing. + +When I say the youngest class, it is not with reference to the age of +the pupils, but to the recent period of their admission, for some of +them were as old in years as in the first class, while others were very +young; one of them, a very pretty little Jewish girl with sparkling +intelligent eyes, was indeed a mere child. We had on Sunday seen this +little girl being taught her lesson, which consisted of the simple +words, "I must be kind," and it was very pretty to see the way in which +the notion of kindness was conveyed by signs. This morning she was +writing this on the slate, and she afterwards wrote in a very neat +handwriting a number of short words--cat, dog, horse, &c.--which were +dictated to her by signs which were of so simple a nature that we could +understand many of them; a goat, for example, was represented by the +fingers being stuck on each side of the head as horns, and then by the +man drawing his hand down from his chin to indicate the beard. They thus +became acquainted by signs with almost every object in the first +instance, and are led on by degrees to complex ideas of every kind. Dr. +Stone says that the use of signs is known in England, but he believes is +never practised to any extent, and certainly not in giving religious +instruction. No attempt is made here, as in England, to teach them to +articulate, as he considered the attempt to do this to be a great +mistake, it being a painful effort to the child, which never leads to +any good practical result. In some cases where deafness has been +accidentally brought on after children have learned to speak, it is then +as far as possible kept up; but even then the effort, as we saw, was +very painful. + +Our next visit was to the Blind Institution, but here there was nothing +very remarkable, though owing to the children not being in school we saw +the Institution very imperfectly. Raised characters are used here, as I +believe everywhere else; one little girl who was called up read and +pronounced very well; we also heard some of them sing and play for a +considerable time. The bulk of the children, or rather young people, for +they keep them here till they are one or two and twenty, were walking +about the gardens invariably in pairs, which seems an excellent +preservative against accidents: this they do of their own accord. + +We next went to the Idiot Asylum, but the children being, as usual on +Saturday, out of doors, we merely took a general look at the place, and +returned there this morning to see the system pursued for them more in +detail. Dr. Patterson, the superintendent, is a man of wonderful energy; +and two young women and a matron, the two young teachers especially, +must be exemplary characters, for they appear to devote themselves to +their work with an energy and kindness which is perfectly marvellous, +considering the apparently hopeless task they are engaged in. However, +when taken young, from six to seven years of age, the capabilities of +these poor children for improvement seem in general great, unless the +infirmity is occasioned by epileptic fits, when the cure is considered +almost hopeless. We were entertained by a story told by Dr. Patterson of +a boy brought to him by the Mayor of C., who told him it was a bad case, +but that he would be satisfied if he could fit him to be a missionary. +Dr. P. replied that he could not answer for that, but that he could at +all events fit him to be Mayor of C. + +The great means resorted to for improvement is constant occupation, +changed every quarter of an hour through out the day. By this means +their physical power at night is nearly exhausted, and they invariably +sleep well; where no greater improvement is arrived at, they can in all +cases gain cleanly habits, and get entirely rid of that repulsive +appearance which an idiot left to himself is almost sure at last to +acquire. Active exercises are what they resort to in the first instance; +they have a large school-room fitted up with ladders and gymnastic +apparatus of all kinds. We saw little boys, who shortly before were +scarcely able to stand alone, climbing places which made me tremble for +their safety, but it was curious to observe with what caution they did +it. + +When we entered the room the youngest class were all standing round a +piano, at which one of the teachers was playing, whilst she and the +other teacher were leading them on in singing a cheerful song, and it +was really quite touching to hear and see them; they sang very fairly, +not worse than children usually do at that age. After a quarter of an +hour of this they went through their Calisthenic exercises, marching in +perfect time, clapping their hands, and going through different +gestures with great accuracy, and these poor children a very few months +ago had hardly any control over their actions. + +Another thing taught is, to distinguish colour and form--for which +purpose they have cards cut out into circles, squares, and octagons--and +other marked shapes, of every variety and shade of colour. Five or six +of these of different sorts were spread on the table, and a large +unsorted pack was placed before a little boy five or six years old, and +it was quite interesting to see him proceed to sort them by placing each +one on the top of the counterpart which had been placed at first on the +table. As there were many more kinds in the pack than those spread out +on the table, when he came to a new one he first placed it in contact +with the others to see if it suited, and after going round them all and +seeing that none were the same, he appeared puzzled, and at last set it +down in a place by itself. Although there was a certain degree of +vacancy in the expression of the child, it seemed quite to brighten up +at each successive step, and the occupation was evidently a source of +considerable enjoyment to him. This little fellow had been a very short +time in the Asylum, and when admitted had not the slightest idea of +form, colour, or size. + +Another mode adopted is, to take little blocks of wood of different +sizes and forms, which the child is required to fit into corresponding +holes cut out in a board. All this is for the least advanced pupils. +They learn afterwards to read and write, and some of the very little +ones traced lines upon a board as well as most children could do with +all their senses about them. The elder ones could write short words and +read easy books; they are taught to read by having short words like cow, +dog, ox, printed on cards, and are then shown by a picture what the +words represent, and they are not taught their letters or to spell words +till they begin to learn to write; the elementary books therefore +consist chiefly of words representing ideas quite independently of the +letters of which the words are formed. Many, however, can never fully +obtain the power of speech, and that without any physical defect in +their organs, and without the accompaniment of deafness, for they hear +perfectly. In these instances to teach them to speak is very difficult, +and sometimes hopeless. The poor little boy whom we saw sorting his +cards, was one of those cases in which no articulate sound had ever been +uttered, or could be produced by any teaching. At the same time the +development of his head, and that of many others, was almost perfect +and quite a beau ideal of what a head should be. + +I forgot in speaking of the deaf and dumb to mention that their crying +and laughter were quite like those of other children, and it appears to +be the same with the idiots, even though they cannot speak. There was +among the idiots one boy in irons to support his legs, which were +otherwise quite without power, and he seemed under this treatment to be +rapidly improving. They all have meat twice a day, and great care is +taken to feed them generously. The only other sight in Columbus is the +Medical College, which, however, we had no time to go over. We must, +however, except the Governor's house, not forgetting its inmates, +Governor Chase himself, and his interesting daughter. We had been +introduced to the Governor by Mr. Dennison, after missing him on +Saturday at the Capitol, and he most kindly asked us to drink tea and +spend the evening with him, apologising for time not permitting his +daughter to call upon us. He is Governor of the State of Ohio, an office +that is held for two years. He is a first-rate man in talent and +character,--a strong abolitionist, and a thorough gentleman in his +appearance--showing that the active and adventurous habits of his +nation are quite consistent with the highest polish and refinement. He +is deeply involved in the politics of his country, and, as I said +before, is a candidate for the next presidentship. His strong views on +the question of slavery will probably be a bar to his success, but +unfortunately another hindrance may be that very high social character +for which he is so remarkable. To judge at least by the treatment of +such men as Henry Clay, and others of his stamp, it would appear as if +real merit were a hindrance rather than a help to the attainment of the +highest offices in America.[9] + +The Governor's house looked externally something like an English rectory +standing in a little garden, and we were at first shown into a small +sitting-room. It seems the fashion all over America, as it is abroad, to +leave the space open in the middle of the room, and the chairs and sofas +arranged round the walls, but there is always a good carpet of lively +colours or a matting in summer, and not the bare floor so constantly +seen in France and Germany. The little gathering consisted of the +Governor, his two daughters (his only children), his niece, and his +sister, Mr. Dennison, and Mr. Barnay, a clever New York lawyer, with +whom we had crossed the Atlantic. But if the Governor recommended +himself to us as a gentleman, what am I to say of his daughter? Papa has +gone out and has left her description to me, whereas he could give a +much more lively one, as he at once lost his heart to her. Her figure is +tall and slight, but at the same time beautifully rounded; her neck long +and graceful, with a sweet pretty brunette face. I seldom have seen such +lovely eyes and dark eyelashes; she has rich dark hair in great +profusion, but her style and dress were of the utmost simplicity and +grace, and I almost forgave papa for at once falling in love with her. +Her father has been three times a widower, though not older-looking than +papa, and with good reason he worships his daughter. She has been at the +head of her father's house for the last six months, and the _naive_ +importance she attached to her office gave an additional attraction to +her manners. While we sat talking in the little room the Governor handed +me a white and red rose as being the last of the season. He had placed +them ready for me in a glass, and I have dried them as a memorial of +that pleasant evening. We soon went into the dining-room, where tea and +coffee were laid out on a light oak table, with an excellent _compote_ +of apples, a silver basket full of sweet cakes, of which the Americans +are very fond: bread--alas! always cut in slices whether at the hotels +or in private, fresh butter,--an improvement on the usual salt butter of +the country, and served, as it generally is, in silver perforated dishes +to allow of the water from the ice to drain through, and a large tureen +of cream toast. This is also a common dish, being simply slices of toast +soaked in milk or cream and served hot. It often appears at the hotels, +but there it is milk toast, and is not so good. I thought the cream +toast excellent, and a great improvement on our bread and milk in +England, but papa did not like it. The Governor and his fair daughter +presided at the table, the Governor first saying grace very reverently, +and we had a very pleasant repast. + +After this we were conducted to the drawing-room. Such a _bijou_ of a +room! The size was about twenty feet by eighteen, and the walls and +ceiling, including doors, window-frames, and shutters--there were no +curtains, might have been all made of the purest white china. It is a +most peculiar and desirable varnish which is used on their wood-work +that gives this effect. Mr. Tyson told us that it is made of Canada +balsam, and that it comes therefore from our own territory, so that it +is very stupid of Cubitt and others not to make use of it. The effect is +like what the white wood-work of our drawing-room was when it was first +finished, and you may imagine the appearance of the whole room being +done with this fine white polish everywhere. We see it in all the hotels +and railway carriages, so that it cannot be expensive. The windows were +pointed, and the shutters were made to slide into the walls. They were +shut on that evening, and were made, as they often are, with a small +piece of Venetian blind-work let into them, also painted white. If we +had called in the morning we should probably have found the room in +nearly total darkness, as we found to be the case at Mr. Neil's, for the +dear Americans seem too much afraid of their sun. There was a white +marble table in the centre of this drawing-room, and the room was well +lighted with gas. The only ornament was a most lovely ideal head in +marble by Power, the sculptor of the Greek slave. The simplicity and +beauty of the room could not be surpassed, and we spent a most +interesting evening. + +The father and daughter we found to be full of intelligence and +knowledge of our best authors, though neither of them has ever been in +England. Miss Chase is much interested in a new conservatory, took me +over it, and gave me several very pretty things to dry. I shall +endeavour to get cuttings or seeds of them. I was generous enough to +allow papa afterwards to go over the conservatory alone with her. She is +longing to come and see England, but her father is too busy at present +to leave the country. She expressed such sorrow not to know more of us, +that we promised to call this morning after our "asylum" work was done, +when she showed us over the house, which is very pretty, and nicely +arranged throughout. + +I think I have nothing more to say of Columbus, except that we heard two +sermons and _saw_ one on Sunday; for, besides the morning sermon at the +Episcopal Church, and the _sign_ one to the deaf and dumb, we looked in +at another where a negro was preaching to his fellow niggers with great +energy and life; but the ladies were quiet, and restrained their agonies +and their "glory." + +_Cincinnati, Oct. 27th._--We left Columbus at forty minutes past twelve +yesterday. Mr. Dennison and Mr. Neil's son met us at the station, and +Mr. Neil gave me some dried red leaves he had promised me, which have +kept their colour tolerably well. Mr. D. is president of the railroad +on which we were about to travel, and wished to give us free tickets to +this place, but papa declined with many thanks. Papa has no sort of +claim or connection with this railway, and I only mention the +circumstance to show the extreme kindness and liberality of these +gentlemen, who knew nothing of us, and probably had never heard our +names until they had received letters of introduction about us from +others, who were themselves equally strangers to us a few days ago. They +introduced us to the freight agent of the Ohio and Mississippi Railway, +who travelled with us, as did also a clever handsome widow. She seemed +to be well connected, being related to General Cass and other people of +note. She reminds me a little of Mrs. B. in style and manner, and it is +pleasant to have some one to talk to, for we do not find people in +general communicative in travelling, though papa says the fault may be +ours. + +There was nothing particularly pretty on the road, as the trees are, I +grieve to say, losing their leaves in this neighbourhood; but on +approaching this great city, "the Queen of the West," we came again on +the Ohio. The water is now very low, but the bed of the river shows how +great its width is when full; and even now there is a perfect navy of +splendid steamers floating on its waters, many of which we saw as our +train drove through the suburban streets of the city. Unhappily the rain +poured down upon us as we got into the omnibus, but we were soon +consoled by finding ourselves in this most magnificent hotel, the finest +I have yet seen. The drawing room, is I should think, unsurpassed in +beauty by any hotel anywhere, and I shall endeavour to make a drawing of +it before I leave. The hotel at Columbus was tolerably large, as you may +suppose, when I tell you that our dining room there was about ninety +feet by thirty. This one, however, has two dining rooms of at least +equal dimensions, which together can dine 1000 persons, and it makes up +600 beds. We sat in the drawing room yesterday evening, for we could not +reconcile ourselves to leave it, even to write this journal. There were +various ladies and gentlemen laughing and talking together, but no +evening dresses, and nothing of any importance to remark about them. One +young lady only was rather grandly dressed in a drab silk; she +afterwards sat down to the piano, and began the usual American jingle, +for I cannot call it music; and I have since been told she was the +daughter of the master of the house. "Egalite" is certainly the order of +the day here, and this young lady was treated quite on an equality with +the other ladies in the room. The food is excellent, and we are very +thankful to have so luxurious a resting place if we are at all detained +here. We have several friends in the hotel, who are here to meet papa on +business. + +This morning we have had a visit from Mr. Mitchell, the astronomer, and +author of the work on Astronomy, which I remember reading with pleasure +just before I left England. His daughter is to call on me and drive us +out, and we are to pay a visit to his observatory. We went this +afternoon to leave some letters, which Mr. Dennison had given us for Mr. +Rufus King and Mr. Lars Anderson. We found Mrs. King at home; her +husband is much devoted to educational subjects and to the fine arts. +There were some very good pictures and engravings in the drawing room, +and amongst the latter two of Sir Robert Strange's performances. We +found both Mr. and Mrs. Anderson at home; they live in a splendid house, +but as it was getting dark we could not see the details. We sent in our +cards with our letter, and the room being full of people, Mr. Anderson +introduced papa to each one separately, and me as Mrs. S----. As these +guests went out others came in, and fresh introductions took place, but +still always Mr. T---- and Mrs. S----, and he so addressed me during the +visit. As we were going away papa said that he was making some strange +mistake about my name, but he insisted upon it that we had so announced +it; and on looking at our cards I found the card of a very vulgar lady +at New York, which I had given by mistake as my own. + +As we were leaving the room, a very amiable and pleasing person asked me +if I would not call upon Mr. Longworth, the most celebrated character in +this country, who she said was her father and the father of Mrs. +Anderson. I said that we had letters to him from Mr. Jared Sparks, and +that we had meant to call on him the next day, but she said we had +better return with her then. We accordingly accompanied her through Mr. +Anderson's garden, and through an adjoining one which led to her +father's house, likewise a very large one, though not presenting such an +architectural appearance as Mr. Anderson's. The old gentleman soon made +his appearance, and afterwards Mrs. Longworth. They were a most +venerable couple, who had a twelve-month ago celebrated their golden +marriage, or fiftieth anniversary of their wedding day. We were invited +to stay and drink tea, which we did, and met a large assemblage of +children and grand-children; a great-grand-child who had been present +at the golden wedding, was in its nursery. + +Mr. Longworth, among other things remarkable about him, is the +proprietor of the vineyards from which the sparkling champagne is +produced, known, from the name of the grape, as the sparkling Catawba; +but he seems no less remarkable from the immense extent of his +strawberry beds, which cover, I think he said, 60 acres of ground. He +told us the number of bushels of fruit they daily produce in the season; +but the number is legion, and I dare not set it down from memory. He +showed papa a book he had written about his grapes and strawberries, and +is very incredulous as to any in the world being better than his. This +led to a discussion upon the relative size of trees and plants on the +two sides of the Atlantic; and in speaking of the Indian corn, he tells +us he has seen it standing, in Ohio, eighteen feet high, and he says it +has been known, in Kentucky, to reach as high as twenty-five feet, and +the ear eighteen inches long. + +The old gentleman is a diminutive-looking person, with a coat so shabby +that one would be tempted to offer him a sixpence if we met him in the +streets; indeed a story is told of a stranger, who, going into his +garden, and being shown round it by Mr. Longworth, gave him a dollar, +which the latter good-humouredly put into his pocket, and it was not +till he was asked to go into the house that the stranger discovered him +to be the owner.[10] He is, however, delightfully vivacious, and full of +agricultural hobbies. His wife is a very pleasing, primitive-looking +person. We tasted at their house some of the ham for which this city, +called by the wits Porkopolis, is so remarkable. The maple sugar is used +in curing it, and improves the flavour very much. + +_October 28th._--I must bring this letter to a rapid close, for it must +be posted a day earlier than we expected. We intend to start in two days +for St. Louis, and there I will finish my account of Cincinnati. To-day +we have seen a great many schools, which have given us considerable +insight into the state of education in America. My next letter will +probably bring us to our most western point, though we have not yet +quite settled whether we shall go to the Falls of St. Anthony, or to +Chicago. Papa says I must close, and I must obey. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[8] Though this description of the Senate was meant as a good-humoured +satire on the absence of etiquette in their assemblies, it is probably +no very exaggerated account of what is sometimes seen there; but it +would be most unfair to draw any conclusion from this as to the +behaviour in general society of well-educated gentlemen in America, +there being as much real courtesy among these as is found in any other +country, though certainly not always accompanied by the refinements of +polished society in Europe. + +[9] It is not meant here to obtrude special views of politics, or to +maintain that democratic principles have naturally this tendency; but it +may help to explain why so little is heard or known in England of the +better class of Americans. Their unobtrusive mode of life entirely +accounts for this, and it is to be regretted that it is the noisy +demagogue who forms the type of the American as known to the generality +of the European public. + +[10] I should not have taken the liberty of printing this account of Mr. +Longworth were he not, in a manner, a public character, well known +throughout the length and breadth of the land, and his eccentricities +are as familiar to every one at Cincinnati as his goodness of heart. In +speaking, too, of his family, it is most gratifying to be able to record +the patriarchal way in which we found him and Mrs. Longworth, surrounded +by their descendants to the third generation. + +If any apology is required, the same excuse--of his being a well-known +public character--may be made for saying so much of Governor Chase and +of his family. + + + + +LETTER X. + + + CINCINNATI.--MR. LONGWORTH.--GERMAN POPULATION---"OVER THE + RHINE."--ENVIRONS OF CINCINNATI.--GARDENS.--FRUITS.--COMMON + SCHOOLS.--JOURNEY TO ST. LOUIS. + + + Vincennes, Indiana, Nov. 1st, 1858. + +My last letter brought us up to our arrival at Cincinnati, and our +passing the evening at Mr. Longworth's on the following day. Next day, +Wednesday the 27th, Mrs. Anderson, Mr. Longworth's daughter, called and +asked us to spend that evening also at her mother's house. She took me +out in her carriage in the morning to see some of the best shops, which +were equal to some of our best London ones in extent and in the value of +the goods; and in the course of the day we called at Monsieur Raschig's; +he not being at home, we made an appointment to call there late in the +evening. + +The party at the Longworths was confined to the members of their large +family, all of whom are very agreeable. There were two married +daughters, Mrs. Flagg and Mrs. Anderson, and the grandson and his +wife, Mr. and Mrs. Stettinius; and we also saw the little +great-grand-daughter, who is a pretty child of eighteen months. The +dining-room not being long enough to accommodate us all at tea, the +table was placed diagonally across the room, and it was surprising to +see Mrs. Longworth pouring out tea and coffee for the whole party as +vigorously as if she were eighteen years old, her age being seventy-two. +She is remarkably pretty, with a fair complexion, and a very attractive +and gentle manner and face. + +We had quails and Cincinnati hams, also oysters served in three +different ways--stewed, fried in butter, and in their natural state, but +taken out of their shells and served _en masse_ in a large dish. Our +friends were astonished that we did not like these famous oysters of +theirs in any form, which we did not, they being very huge in size and +strong in flavour. We said, too, we did not like making two bites of an +oyster; they pitied our want of taste, and lamented over our miserably +small ones in England. After tea we saw some sea-weed and autumnal +leaves beautifully dried and preserved by Mrs. Flagg, and we also +looked over an illustrated poem on the subject of Mr. and Mrs. +Longworth's golden wedding, the poem being the composition of Mr. Flagg. +Towards ten o'clock a table was laid out in the drawing-room with their +Catawba champagne, which was handed round in tumblers, followed by piles +of Vanilla ice a foot and a half high. There were two of these towers of +Babel on the table, and each person was given a supply that would have +served for half a dozen in England; the cream however is so light in +this country that a great deal more can be taken of it than in England; +ices are extremely good and cheap all over America; even in very small +towns they are to be had as good as in the large ones. Water ices or +fruit ices are rare; they are almost always of Vanilla cream. In summer +a stewed peach is sometimes added. + +We left the Longworths that evening in a down pour of rain, so that papa +only got out for a minute at the door of Miss Raschig's uncle, and asked +him to breakfast with us next morning. He accordingly came; we found him +a most quick, lively, and excellent man, full of intelligence, and he +received us with the warmth and ardour of an old friend, having during +the twenty-five years he has been in America scarcely ever seen any one +who knew any of his relatives. He is a Lutheran minister, and has a +large congregation of Germans. He said a good deal had been going on +during the revivals at Cincinnati, and he thought the feeling shown was +of a satisfactory kind; there had been preaching in tents opposite his +church. + +The part of the town where he resides beyond the Miami Canal, which +divides it into two portions, is known by the name of "Over the Rhine," +and is inhabited almost entirely by Germans, of whom there are no less +than 60,000 in the town. Mr. Raschig's own family consists of nine sons +and one daughter, the youngest child being a fortnight old. We went to +see them before we left the place, and found the mother as excellent and +agreeable as himself, with her fine little baby in her arms. She said +that boys were much easier disposed of than girls in this country, and +their three eldest sons are already getting their livelihood, the eldest +of all being married. We saw the third son, a very intelligent youth, +who is a teacher in one of the schools in the town, and the daughter, a +pleasing girl of fourteen, sung to us. She promises to have a good +voice, though it will never equal her cousin's. + +On the evening of the 28th we went by invitation to Mr. and Mrs. +King's. He is a lawyer, and they are connected by marriage with the +Neils of Columbus and with the Longworths. The Andersons were there, and +we again had a liberal supply of ices. The following evening, the 29th, +we went to the Andersons, where there was a large party consisting of +the Directors of the Ohio and Mississippi Railway, with whom, by the +bye, I had dined that day at the hotel, there being ten gentlemen and +myself, the only lady, at table. The party at the Andersons was also an +assemblage of some of the beau monde of Cincinnati. The ladies were all +dressed in high silk dresses remarkably well made, and looking as if +they all had come straight from Paris. I never saw a large party of +prettier or better chosen toilettes. The dresses were generally of rich +brocaded silk, but there was nothing to criticise, and all were in +perfect taste. We assembled in a long drawing-room carpeted, and +sufficiently supplied with chairs, but there being neither tables nor +curtains, the room had rather a bare appearance, though it was well +lighted and looked brilliant. Towards ten o'clock we were handed into +the dining-room, where there was a standing supper of oysters,--the +"institution" of oysters as they justly call it,--hot quails, ham, ices, +and most copious supplies of their beloved Catawba champagne, which we +do not love, for it tastes, to our uninitiated palates, little better +than cider. It was served in a large red punch-bowl of Bohemian glass in +the form of Catawba cobbler, which I thought improved it; but between +the wine and the quails, which, from over hospitable kindness, were +forced on poor papa, he awoke the next morning with a bad headache, and +did not get rid of it all day. + +The weather during our stay at Cincinnati was so wet that, with the +exception of a drive which Mr. Anderson took us to some little distance +on the heights above, and a long visit which we paid to the school under +Mr. King's auspices, we had little out-door work to occupy us. I once, +however, and papa twice, crossed the Ohio in a steamboat, and took a +walk in the opposite slave state of Kentucky. The view thence of the +town and its fleet of steamboats is very striking. The opposite hills, +with the observatory perched on the highest summit, were very fine. + +Mr. Anderson one day took us a long drive to the top of these hills; the +whole country, especially near a village called Clifton, about six miles +from the town, is studded with villas. We drove through the grounds of +two which overlooked splendid views of the neighbouring country; each of +them being situated at the end of a sort of natural terrace projecting +into the valley, and thus commanding a panoramic view all round. + +The grounds attached to these villas are of considerable extent, but +nothing has surprised us more than the poverty of the gardens in +America. It may, however, be accounted for by the difficulty and expense +of obtaining labour in this country, and by the consequent facility with +which men who show any talent, and are really industrious, can advance +themselves. A scientific gardener, therefore, if any such there be, +would not long remain in that capacity. One of the houses had a really +fine-looking conservatory attached to it, but, like others we have seen +in the course of our travels, it was almost entirely given up to rockery +and ferns. This is a degree better than when the owners indulge in +statuary. We were made by the driver on another occasion to stop at a +garden ornamented in this way, but certainly Hiram Power's talents had +not been called into request, and the statues were of the most +common-place order. + +It is not only in their gardens, however, but in the general ornamental +cultivation of their grounds, that the Americans are deficient, for +even at Newport, where we greatly admired, as I think I mentioned, the +greenness of the grass, it was coarse in quality, and bore no sort of +resemblance to a well-trimmed English lawn. Nor have we ever seen any +fruit, with the exception of their apples, to compare to ours in +England. These are certainly very fine. I hardly know the weight of an +English apple, but at Columbus we got some which were brought from the +borders of Lake Erie which are called the twenty-ounce apple. The one we +ate weighed about sixteen ounces, and measured thirteen inches round. +They are said to weigh sometimes as much as twenty-seven ounces. It is +what they call a "fall," meaning an autumnal, apple.[11] + +Next to their apples their pears deserve notice; but, though better than +ours, they are not superior to those produced in France. The quantity of +fruit, however, is certainly great, for the peaches are standard and +grown in orchards; but they are quite uncultivated, and the greater part +that we met with were hardly fit to eat. They are, notwithstanding, +very proud of their fruit, especially of these said peaches and of their +grapes, which, to our minds, were just as objectionable productions. +There is one kind called the Isabella, which we thought most +disagreeable to eat, for the moment the skin is broken by the teeth and +the grape squeezed the whole inner part pops out in a solid mass into +the mouth. We are past the season of wild flowers; but these must make +the country very beautiful in the early spring, to judge from the +profusion of rhododendron and other shrubs, which were most luxuriant, +especially where we crossed the Alleghanies and along the banks of the +Connecticut. To return, however, to our drive. + +After visiting these villas we passed a great number of charitable +institutions for the relief of the poor, who are remarkably well looked +after in this country. One of these institutions was the Reformatory, a +large building, where young boys are sent at whatever age they may prove +delinquents, and are kept and well educated till they are twenty-one. +But the grand mode in which the state provides against crime of all +kinds is the system of education for all classes. + +I have said we went under Mr. King's guidance to see the common schools +of Cincinnati. These are divided into three classes, called the +district schools, the intermediate schools, and the high schools; we +went through each grade, and were much pleased with the proficiency of +the pupils. The examinations they went through in mental arithmetic were +very remarkable, and the questions put to the boys of the intermediate +class, who were generally from eleven to thirteen years old, were +answered in a very creditable manner. + +In the high school, the teaching is carried on till the pupils reach the +age of sixteen or seventeen, and even eighteen, after which they either +leave school altogether or go to college. They are generally the +children of artisans or mechanics, but boys of all ranks are admitted, +and are moved on from one grade to another. The schools are entirely +free, and girls are admitted as well as boys, and in about equal +numbers. The girls and boys are taught, for the most part, in separate +rooms, but repeat their lessons and are examined together, so that there +is a constant passing in and out from one class-room to another, but +still great order is preserved. This assembling together, however, of +large numbers of boys and girls, for so considerable a portion of the +day, did not strike us as so desirable as it is there said to be. The +advocates of the system say it refines the rough manners of the boys; +but it is more than questionable if the characters of the girls are +improved by it, and if the practice, in its general results, can be +beneficial. + +The subjects taught to both boys and girls are invariably the same; and +it was curious to hear girls translating Cicero into excellent English, +and parsing most complicated sentences, just like the boys, and very +often in better style, for they often answered when the boys could not. +They seemed chiefly girls from sixteen to eighteen. They answered, also, +most difficult questions in logic, and they learn a good deal of +astronomy, chemistry, &c., and have beautiful laboratories and +instruments. Music is also taught in a very scientific way, so as to +afford a knowledge of the transpositions of the keys, but in spite of +this, their music and singing are very American. German and French are +also taught in the schools when required. + +The teachers, both men and women, have very good salaries; the youngest +women beginning with 60_l._ and rising to 120_l._ a year, while the +men's salaries rise up to 260_l._ a year, and that in the intermediate +or second class schools. This style of education may appear too advanced +for girls in their rank of life, but in this country, where they get +dispersed, and may attain a good position in a distant district, the +tone thus given by education to the people, is of great importance. The +educating of the females in this way must give them great powers, and +open to them a field of great usefulness in becoming teachers themselves +hereafter. The education given is altogether secular, and they profess +to try and govern "by appeals to the nobler principles of their nature," +as we gather from a report which was put into our hands at leaving. + +This is but a weak basis for a sound education, and I cannot but think +its insufficiency is even here practically, and perhaps unconsciously, +acknowledged; for, though no direct religious instruction is professedly +given, a religious tone is nevertheless attempted to be conveyed in the +lessons. At the opening of the school, a portion of the Bible is read +daily in each class; and the pupils are allowed to read such versions of +the Scriptures as their parents may prefer, but no marginal readings are +allowed, nor may any comments be made by the teachers.[12] + +We left Cincinnati this morning in the car appropriated to the use of +the Directors of the Ohio and Mississippi Railway, on which line we are +travelling. It is neatly fitted up with little "state" rooms, with sofas +all round. There were four of these, besides a general saloon in the +middle; but the whole was greatly inferior to the elegance of Mr. +Tyson's car on the Baltimore and Ohio Railway. Our party consisted of +about thirty persons, of whom four were judges, and about a third of the +number were ladies, accompanying their liege lords, and chiefly asked in +honour of me, to prevent my being "an unprotected female" among such a +host of gentlemen. An ordinary car was attached to that of the +Directors, for the use of any smokers of the party. We left Cincinnati +at half-past eight, and reached this place, Vincennes, where we are to +sleep, at about six o'clock. The road was very pretty, though the leaves +were nearly all off the trees; the forms of the trees were, however, +lovely, and it was quite a new description of country to us, the +clearings being recent and still very rough in appearance, and the +log-houses, in most places, of a most primitive kind. Vincennes, where +we are to sleep, is an old town of French origin, prettily situated on +the river Wabash, which we can see from our windows. + +_St. Louis, November 4th._--We came on here on the 2nd instant, and soon +after leaving Vincennes found ourselves in a prairie, but it was not +till after sixty miles that we got to the Grand Prairie, which we +traversed for about sixty more. The vastness, however, of this prairie, +consists in its length from north to south, in which it stretches +through nearly the whole length of the State. These prairies are +enormous plains of country, covered, at this time, by a long brown +grass, in which are the seed-vessels and remains of innumerable flowers, +which are said to be most lovely in their form and colour in the spring. +It was disappointing only to see the dark remains of what must have been +such a rich parterre of flowers. One of our party, Colonel Reilly, of +Texas, who had seen our Crystal Palace gardens at Sydenham, in full +flower, said that they reminded him of the prairies in the spring. The +ground is so level, that the woods on the horizon had the effect that +the first sight of the dark line of land has at sea. In many places near +the road on each side, small farms were established, and good-sized +fields of Indian corn were growing; and wherever there was a railway +station, a town, or even a "city" with one or two churches, and an +hotel, besides grocery stores and wooden buildings of various kinds, +were in progress in this immense wilderness. + +The rain poured down incessantly, giving the country a melancholy and +forlorn appearance. Towards the latter part of our journey, we descended +into and traversed the great valley of the Mississippi. We passed +several coal-mines, and here, where the vein of coal is eight feet +thick, the land, including the coal, may be bought for one pound an +acre. The country soon assumed the appearance of a great swamp, and is +most unhealthy, being full of fever and ague. + +At length our train stopped, and we were ushered into omnibuses of +enormous length, drawn by four horses, and two of these caterpillar-like +looking vehicles were driven on to the steam-ferry, and in this +unromantic way we steamed across the great Father of Waters, and a most +unpoetic and unromantic river it appeared to be. There is nothing in +its width here to strike the eye or the imagination, though its depth is +very great, and it has risen ten feet within the last week. But it +appeared to us ugly and inconsiderable after the wide, rapid, clear, and +magnificent St. Lawrence. We were driven through a sea of mud and mire +to this large and comfortable hotel, and were shortly afterwards seated +at table with the rest of our party. + +I forgot to mention that, at Vincennes, seven sportsmen had been out all +day, before we arrived, to procure game for us, and were much +disappointed at not being able to get us any prairie hens, which are a +humble imitation of grouse, though Americans are pleased to consider +them better than that best of birds; but "comparisons are odious," and +the prairie-hens are very praiseworthy and good in their way. We had, +however, abundance of venison and quails, and the same fare met us here, +with large libations of champagne. The owner of our hotel at Cincinnati +travelled with us, and looked as much like a gentleman as the rest of +the party; and we have been joined here in our private drawing-room by +the landlord and landlady of this hotel. Not knowing at first who they +were, papa turned round to the former, and asked him if he knew St. +Louis, and had been long here, to which our friend replied, "Yes, sir; +I have lived here eighteen years, and am the master of this hotel." +Yesterday our dinner was even better than on the day of our arrival, +closing with four or five omelettes soufflees, worthy of Paris, and the +same number of pyramids of Vanilla ice. So much for the progress of +civilisation across the Mississippi. + +We paddled about in the muddy streets yesterday, and looked in at the +shop-windows. We found even here plenty of hoop petticoats, and of +tempting-looking bookseller's shops. Our hotel is close to the +Court-house, a handsome building of limestone, with a portico and a +cupola in process of building, being a humble imitation of the one at +Washington. Yesterday evening, one or two of the gentlemen amused us +after dinner with some nigger songs, ending, I suppose out of compliment +to us, with "God save the Queen." I studied the toilette of one of our +party this morning--the only young unmarried lady among us. I had often +seen the same sort of dress at the hotels, but never such a good +specimen as this. It is called here the French morning robe or wrapper, +and this one was made of crimson merino, with a wide shawl bordering +half-way up the depth of the skirt. The skirt is quite open in front, +displaying a white petticoat with an embroidered bordering. The body of +the wrapper was formed in the old-fashioned way, with a neck-piece, with +trimmings of narrow shawl borderings; there was no collar at all, the +crimson merino coming against the neck without any break of even a frill +of white. The sleeves were very large, of the latest fashion, with white +under sleeves, and the waist was very short, confined with a red band of +merino. These dresses are very common in the morning, and are, I +believe, thought to be very elegant. They are frequently made like this, +of some violent coloured merino, and often of silk, with trimmings of +another coloured ribbon. + +Having digressed so far from my account of St. Louis, I will go back for +a few minutes to Cincinnati, to describe the grand fire-engines we saw +there, with horses all ready harnessed. One particular engine, in which +the water was forced up by steam, could have its steam up and be ready +for action in three minutes from its time of starting, and long, +therefore, in all probability before it reached the place where its +services were required. These engines all had stags' horns placed in a +prominent position in front, as a sign of swiftness, and on this +particular one there was printed under the horns, "Sure Thing, 287 +feet," meaning that it could throw the water that height. Another had +on it, "243 feet. Beat that!" the Americans being very laconic in all +their public communications. The regular plan on which most of the +American towns are built and the division into wards, give great +facilities for showing where a fire takes place; balls are shown from +the top of a high tower to direct the engines where to go, the number of +balls pointing out the ward where the fire exists. + +Another grand invention, which we found here as well as everywhere else, +is their sewing machine. These sewing machines wearied us very much when +we landed at New York, for they seemed to be the one idea of the whole +country; and I am afraid we formed some secret intentions to have +nothing to do with them. I had seen them in a shop window in the City, +in London, but knowing nothing of their merits, almost settled in my own +mind they had none. At last I found how blind I had been, and what +wonderful machines they are. There are numbers of them of various +degrees of excellence. They are so rapid in their work, that if a dress +without flounces is tacked together, it can be made easily by the +machine in a morning: a lady here showed me how the machine is used; she +told me it is so fascinating that she should like to sit at it all day. +She works for her family, consisting of a husband and nine sons, and +takes the greatest pleasure in making all their under clothing; and +working as she does, not very constantly, she can easily do as much as +six sempstresses, while the machine, constantly worked, could do as much +as twelve. The work is most true and beautiful and rapid, and the +machine must be an invaluable aid where there is a large family. It is +much used also by tailors and shoemakers, for it can be used with all +qualities of materials, whether fine or thick. The price of one is from +15_l._ to 25_l._ It requires a little practice to work at it, but most +American ladies who have large families possess one, and dressmakers use +them a great deal. + +_November 4th._--To return to this town of mud and mire, we have been +nearly up to our knees in both to-day, and went on board one of the +large steamers, but found it was not nearly so grandly fitted up as the +one in which we went from New York to Newport. There is an enormous +fleet of steamers here, but the Mississippi still looked most dingy, +muddy, and melancholy. We were given tickets this evening, to hear a +recitation by a poet named Saxe, of a poem of his own, on the Press, and +we soon found ourselves in an enormous hall about 100 feet by 80, +nearly filled by a very intelligent-looking audience. A man near us told +us that Mr. Saxe had a European reputation, which made us feel much +ashamed of our ignorance, in never having heard of him before, and, +unhappily, we came away no wiser than we went as regards the merits of +his poetry; for though our seats were near him, there was something +either in the form of the hall, or in the nature of his voice and +pronunciation, which made us unable to hear what he said. There were +bursts of laughter and applause at times from the audience, but we took +the first opportunity of leaving. + +As we walked home, we passed a brilliantly-lighted confectioner's shop, +where we each had an ice, but they were too sweet, and after eating and +criticising them, we came to another confectioner's, when papa insisted +upon going in, and ordered two more ices, which were very good. We were +presented here with filtered water, the usual drinking water in this +town being something of the colour of dingy lemonade, though its taste +is good. + +We purpose going to-morrow.... I turn to ask papa where--and he shakes +his head, and says he does not know. On my pressing for a more distinct +answer, he says, "Up the Missouri at all events." This sounds vague, +but I believe before night we shall be on our way to Chicago, and shall +thus have taken leave of the "far west." And now I must take my leave of +you for the present, though I fear this is but a dull chapter of the +journal. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[11] As an instance of the ingenious devices used to save labour in this +country, we may mention a machine for paring apples, which we bought in +the streets at Boston for twenty cents, or about 10_d._ English. By +turning a handle it can perform, simultaneously, the operations of +peeling the apple, cutting out the core, and slicing it. + +[12] For fear that we may have misinterpreted what is said above, we +think it advisable, as the matter is a most important one, and one that +may interest others, to extract from the report the passage on which +these observations were founded; for it is not a clear specimen of +American composition, and might, therefore, easily become a subject of +misrepresentation:-- + +"The Opening Exercises in every Department shall commence by the reading +of a portion of the Bible, by or under the direction of the teacher, and +appropriate singing by the pupils. + +"The pupils of the Common Schools may read such version of the Sacred +Scriptures as their parents or guardians may prefer, provided that such +preference of any version except the one now in use be communicated by +the parents or guardians to the Principal Teachers, and that no notes or +marginal readings be read in the school, or comments made by the +Teachers on the text of any version that is or may be introduced." + + + + +LETTER XI. + + + ST. LOUIS.--JEFFERSON CITY.--RETURN TO ST. + LOUIS.--ALTON.--SPRINGFIELD.--FIRES ON THE + PRAIRIES.--CHICAGO.--GRANARIES.--PACKING HOUSES.--LAKE + MICHIGAN.--ARRIVAL AT INDIANAPOLIS. + + + Jefferson City, on the Missouri, + Nov. 6th, 1858. + +Here we are really in the Far West, more than 150 miles from the +junction of the Missouri with the Mississippi, though still 2950 from +the source of this great-grandfather of waters--for I can give it a no +less venerable name. We first caught sight of it, or struck the river, +as the phrase is here, about 98 miles below this city, and for a long +time we followed its banks so closely, that we could at any point have +thrown a stone from the car into the river. At Hermann, a little German +settlement on its banks, we stopped and had an excellent dinner, but it +was so late before we left St. Louis, that we passed the greater part of +what seemed very pretty scenery in the dark, so that I shall defer any +further description of it till we return over the ground on Monday. + +We were most unfortunate in our weather during our stay at St. Louis, +and I had no opportunity of seeing the beauties of the neighbourhood, +which we hear much extolled, but respecting which we are rather +sceptical. The only drive we took, was to a new park being made outside +the town, called Lafayette Park, which gave us anything but a pleasant +impression of the _entourage_ of St. Louis; we must admit, however, that +a very short distance by railway brought us into a very pretty country, +and no doubt the dismal weather and bad roads made our drive very +different to what it might have been on a fine day. Still, with the +impression fresh in our memory of our drive in the neighbourhood of +Cincinnati in much the same sort of weather, we are compelled to think +that the country about the Queen of the West and the banks of the Ohio +greatly surpasses in beauty St. Louis and the muddy river which has so +great a reputation in the world. + +_Springfield, Illinois, November 9th._--Although our damp disagreeable +weather has not left us, we have contrived to see a good deal of +Jefferson City. We made a dash a short way up the Missouri in a +steamboat, and landed and took a walk on the northern side of the +river, and as we exchanged a mud for a sandy soil, it was less +disagreeable than on the south side. The northern shore, which from the +opposite side seemed hilly and well wooded, is very pretty, but on +landing the hills had receded to a distance, and we found a considerable +plain between them and the river. Up to the water's edge, however, the +country is well wooded. On the spot where we landed we saw a large tree, +at least ten feet in diameter, burnt almost to its centre, and its fine +head destroyed by fire; and on asking some bystanders if any one had +intended to burn it down, they said, "Oh, no, some one has merely made a +fire there to warm himself;" a strong proof of the little value put here +on fine timber. + +The view of Jefferson City from the opposite bank, looking down the +river, is very striking. Being the capital of the state of Missouri, +there was the usual Capitol or state-house, and, unlike most others that +we have seen, the building with its large dome was completed. It is a +fine edifice of white stone, standing at a great height above the river, +on what is here called a bluff, namely, a rock rising perpendicularly +from the water's edge. The principal part of the town is built along the +heights, but the ground slopes in places, and the houses are then +carried down to the river side. The railway runs under the cliff, and +can be seen winding along up and down the river, for some distance each +way; it has not yet been carried much further, as this is the last large +town to which railways in the west reach; but, as its name, the Pacific +Railway, implies, it is intended ultimately to be carried "right away" +west till it joins the ocean. We went on Sunday to the Episcopal church. +There was the Communion service, and a very good sermon on the subject +of that ordinance. + +We yesterday returned to St. Louis, and after a brief halt came on here. +As our journey back to St. Louis was in the daytime, we had an +opportunity of seeing the very interesting country which we passed on +Saturday in the dark. The most remarkable feature of the road was +crossing the Osage within 200 or 300 yards of its confluence with the +Missouri. It is about 1,200 feet broad, and we saw in it one of those +beautiful steamboats which give so much character here to the rivers. +The Osage is navigable for these large boats for 200 miles above this +place. We passed various other rivers, among others the Gasconade, at a +spot memorable for a terrible catastrophe which happened on the day of +the opening of the railway, when the first bridge which crossed it gave +way as the train was passing, and nine out of thirteen cars were +precipitated into the bed of the river; thirty people, chiefly leading +characters of St. Louis, were killed, and many hundreds desperately +hurt. + +We have little more to say of St. Louis, as the museum was the only +public building we visited. The great curiosity there is the largest +known specimen of the mastodon. It is almost entire from the tip of its +nose to the tip of its tail, and measures ninety-six feet in length. We +left St. Louis, and were glad to escape for a time at least out of a +slave state. The "institution" was brought more prominently before us +there than it has yet been, as St. Louis is the first town where we have +seen it proclaimed in gold letters on a large board in the street, +"Negroes bought and sold here." In the papers, also, yesterday, we saw +an advertisement of a "fine young man" to be sold, to pay a debt. + +We took our departure in the Alton steamboat, in order to see the first +twenty-four miles of the Upper Mississippi, and the junction of that +river and the Missouri, which takes place about six miles below Alton; +both rivers, however, are very tame and monotonous, and it was only as +we were reaching Alton, that the banks of the Mississippi assumed +anything like height. Alton itself stands very high, and as it was +getting dark when we arrived, the lights along the hills had a fine +effect. We are told it is a pretty town, but it was dark when we landed, +and we had to hurry into the train that brought us to this place. The +steamboat in which we went up the river was a very fine one, but not at +all fitted up in the sumptuous manner of our Newport boat. Papa paced +the cabin, and made it 276 feet long, beyond which there was an outside +smoking cabin, and then the forecastle. + +Springfield is in the midst of the Grand Prairie, and, as we are not to +leave it till the afternoon, we have been exploring the town, and, as +far as we could, the prairie which comes close up to it; but the moment +the plank pavement ceased, it was hopeless to get further, owing to the +dreadfully muddy state of the road. This mud must be a great drawback to +residing in a prairie town, as the streets are rendered impassable for +pedestrians, unless at the plank crossings. On our way back to the +hotel, we accosted a man standing at his door, whose strong Scotch +accent, in reply to a question, told us at once where he came from. He +asked us into his house, and gave us a good deal of information about +the state of the country. He was originally a blacksmith at Inverary, +and had after that pursued his calling in a very humble way in Fife and +in Edinburgh, and came out here penniless twenty-six years ago, when +there were only a few huts in the place; but he has turned his trade to +better account here, for he lives in a comfortable house, and has +_$_50,000, or 10,000_l._ invested in the country. He seemed very pleased +to see us, and talked of the Duke of Argyle's family, as well as of the +Durhams, Bethunes, Anstruthers, &c. Having lived when in Fife, at Largo, +he seemed quite familiar with the Durhams, with the General's little +wife, and with Sir Philip's adventures, from the time of the loss of the +Royal George downwards. + +This is the capital of Illinois, and the state-house here, too, is +finished, and is a fine building. The governor has a state residence, +which is really a large and handsome building, but is altogether +surpassed by the private residence of an ex-governor, who lives in a +sumptuous house, to judge from its external accompaniments of +conservatory, &c.; it is nearly opposite our Scotch friend's abode, but +the ex-governor dealt in "lumber" instead of iron, and from being a +chopper of wood, has raised himself to his present position. + +_Chicago, Nov. 10th._--We did not reach Chicago last night till 12 +o'clock, our train, for the first time since we have been in America, +having failed to reach its destination at the proper time; but the delay +of two hours on this occasion was fairly accounted for by the bad state +of the rails, owing to the late rains. Before it became dark we saw one +or two wonderful specimens of towns growing up in this wilderness of +prairie. The houses, always of wood and painted white, are neat, clean, +and well-built. There is, generally, a good-looking hotel, and +invariably a church, and often several of these, for although one would +probably contain all the inhabitants, yet they are usually of many +denominations, and then each one has its own church. About twenty or +thirty miles from Chicago, we saw a very extensive tract of prairie on +fire, which quite illuminated the sky, and, as the night was very dark, +showed distinctly the distant trees and houses, clearly defining their +outline against the horizon. On the other side of us, there was a +smaller fire, but so close as to allow us to see the flames travelling +along the surface of the ground. These fires are very common; we saw no +less than five that night in the course of our journey. + +We have been busily employed to-day in going over Chicago. The streets +are wide and fine, but partake too abundantly of prairie mud to make +walking agreeable: some of the shops are very large; a bookseller's +shop, to which papa and I made our way, professes to be the largest in +the world, and it is certainly one of the best supplied I ever saw with +all kinds of children's books. From the bookseller's we went to papa's +bankers, Messrs. Swift and Co.; Mr. Swift took us to the top of the +Court-house, a wonderful achievement for me, but well worth the trouble, +as the view of the town was very surprising. We went afterwards to call +on William's friend, Mr. Wilkins, the consul, where we met Lord +Radstock. Mr. Wilkins kindly took us to see Mr. Sturge's great granary; +there are several of these in the town, but this, and a neighbouring +one, capable of holding between them four or five million bushels of +corn, are the two largest. The grain is brought into the warehouse, +without leaving the railway, the rails running into the building. It is +then carried to the top of the warehouse "in bulk," by means of hollow +cylinders arranged on an endless chain. The warehouse is built by the +side of the river, so that the vessels which are to carry the corn to +England or elsewhere, come close under the walls, and the grain is +discharged into the vessels by means of large wooden pipes or troughs, +through which it is shot at once into the hold. Mr. Wilkins has seen +80,000 bushels discharged in this manner, in one day. + +We afterwards drove about six miles into the country, through oceans of +mud, to see one of the great slaughter and packing-houses. I did not +venture out of the carriage, but the proprietor took Mr. Wilkins, Lord +Radstock, and papa through every part of the building. In a yard below +were a prodigious number of immense oxen, and the first process was to +see one of these brought into the inside of the building by means of a +windlass; which drew it along by a rope attached to its horns and +passing through a ring on the floor. + +The beast, by means of men belabouring it from behind, and this rope +dragging it in front, was brought in and its head drawn down towards the +ring, when a man with a sledge-hammer felled it instantaneously to the +ground; and without a struggle it was turned over on its back by the +side of eight or ten of its predecessors who had just shared the same +fate, and were already undergoing the various processes to which they +had afterwards to be subjected. The first of these was to rip up and +remove the intestines of the poor beast, and it was then skinned and +cut lengthways into two parts, when the still reeking body was hung up +to cool. The immense room was hung with some hundreds of carcases of +these huge animals thus skinned and cleft in two. The process, from the +time the animal leaves the yard alive till the time it is split and hung +up in two pieces, occupied less than a quarter of an hour. At the end of +two days they are dismembered, salted, packed in casks, the best parts +to be shipped to England, and the inferior parts to be eaten by the free +and enlightened citizens of this great continent. The greater number of +these beasts come from Texas, and have splendid horns, sometimes three +feet long. + +The next thing they saw was the somewhat similar treatment of the poor +pigs; but these are animals, of which for size there is nothing similar +to be seen in England, excepting, perhaps, at the cattle show. At least, +one which papa saw hanging up weighed 400 lbs., and looked like a young +elephant. In the yard below there was a vast herd of these, 1500 having +arrived by railway the night before; the number killed and cut up daily +averages about 500. It takes a very few minutes only from the time the +pig leaves the pen to its being hung up, preparatory to its being cut up +and salted. They first get a knock on the head like the more noble +beasts already mentioned; they are then stuck, in order to be thoroughly +bled; after this they are plunged headlong into a long trough of boiling +water, in which they lie side by side in a quiescent state, very +different to the one they were in a few minutes before, when they were +quarrelling in a most unmannerly manner in the yard below. From this +trough the one first put in is, by a most ingenious machine, taken up +from underneath, and tossed over into an empty trough, where in less +than a minute he is entirely denuded of his bristles, and passed over to +be cleft and hung up. The trough holds about eight or ten thus lying +side by side, and the moment one is taken out at one end, another is put +in at the other, and they thus all float through the length of the +trough, and are taken out in order; but so rapid is the process, that no +one pig is long in; in fact, the whole business occupies only a very few +minutes per pig. Every part is turned to account, the mass of bristles +being converted into tooth brushes, &c. In the huge larder, in the story +next above the oxen, there were about 1500 unhappy pigs hung up to cool, +before being cut up, salted, packed, and sent off. There are several +establishments of this nature in Chicago, but only one of equal extent +to the one papa saw. About 400,000 pigs are shipped every year from +Chicago. I do not know the total number of cattle, but this house alone +slaughters and sends away 10,000. There were places on an enormous scale +for preparing tallow and lard, and there were many other details equally +surprising, which I have not now time to describe; but papa says that +the smells were most offensive, and that it was altogether a very +horrible sight, and it was one I was well pleased to escape. + +Among the other wonders of Chicago, I must do honour to its hotel, which +I should say was as good as any we have yet seen in America. These +American hotels are certainly marvellous "institutions," though we were +getting beyond the limits of the good ones when we reached Jefferson +City. That, however, at St. Louis is a very fair sample of a good one. + +_Indianapolis, Nov. 11th._--We arrived here late this afternoon, and +have not been able as yet to see anything of the town, I shall therefore +defer a description of it to my next. The road from Chicago was not +without its interest, though we are becoming very tired of the prairies. +At first starting we went for many miles along the borders of Lake +Michigan, which we again came upon at a very remarkable spot, Michigan +city, about sixty miles from Chicago. Along the first part of the lake, +in the neighbourhood of Chicago, the shore consists of fine sand, in +strips of considerable width, and flat like an ordinary sea beach; but +at Michigan city the deep sand reached to a considerable distance +inland, and then rose into high dunes, precisely like those on the +French coast. As we had to wait an hour there, papa and I scrambled up +one of these, and although below there was deep loose sand, yet above it +was hard and solid, and bound together with little shrubs like the +French dunes. The view of the lake from the top was very pretty, and +boundless towards the north, we being at the southern extremity. I +picked up a few stones on the beach as a memorial of this splendid lake. +We were very much tempted, when at Chicago, to see more of it, and to go +to Milwaukee and Madison, but we were strongly advised by Mr. Wilkins +not to go further north at this season. The wreaths of snow which during +the night have fallen in patches along the road, and greeted our eyes +this morning, confirmed us in the wisdom of this advice, and we are now +bending our steps once more towards the south. We are still here in the +midst of prairie, but more wooded than in our journey of Tuesday. We +crossed to-day, at Lafayette, the Wabash, which we had crossed +previously at Vincennes, and here, as there, it is a very noble river. +This must end my journal for the present. + + + + +LETTER XII. + + + INDIANAPOLIS.--LOUISVILLE.--LOUISVILLE AND PORTLAND + CANAL.--PORTLAND.--THE PACIFIC STEAMER.--JOURNEY TO + LEXINGTON.--ASHLAND.--SLAVE PENS AT LEXINGTON.--RETURN TO + CINCINNATI.--PENNSYLVANIA CENTRAL RAILWAY.--RETURN TO NEW YORK. + + + Lexington, Kentucky, Nov. 13th, 1858. + +My last letter was closed at Indianapolis, but despatched from +Louisville. On the morning after I wrote we had time, before starting +for Louisville, to take a walk through the principal streets of +Indianapolis. The Capitol or state-house is the only remarkable +building; and here, as in most other towns in America, we were struck by +the breadth of the streets. In the centre of Indianapolis there is a +large square, from which the four principal streets diverge, and from +the centre of this, down these streets, there are views of the distant +country which on all sides bounds the prospect. This has a fine effect, +but all these capital cities of states have an unfinished appearance: +great cities have been planned, but the plans have never been +adequately carried out. The fact is, they have all a political, and not +a commercial origin, and they want the stimulus of commercial enterprise +to render them flourishing towns, or to give them the finished +appearance of cities of much more recent date, such as Chicago and +others. + +We left Indianapolis at about half-past ten, and reached Jeffersonville, +on the north side of the Ohio at four. The country at first was entirely +prairie, but became a good deal wooded as we journeyed south. It is much +more peopled than the wide tracts which we have been lately traversing, +for neat towns with white wooden houses and white wooden churches here +succeeded each other at very short distances; we crossed several large +rivers, tributaries of the Wabash; one, the White river, was of +considerable size, and the banks were very prettily wooded. At +Jeffersonville we got into a grand omnibus with four splendid white +horses, and drove rapidly down a steepish hill, straight on board the +steamboat which was to carry us across the Ohio. The horses went as +quietly as on dry land, and had to make a circuit on the deck, as we +were immediately followed by another similar equipage, four in hand, for +which ours had to make room. This was followed by two large baggage +waggons and a private vehicle; and all these carriages were on one side +of the engine-room. At the other end there was space for as many more, +had there been any need for it; and all this on a tiny little steamboat +compared with the Leviathans that were lying in the river. + +On reaching Louisville we were comfortably established in a large +handsome hotel. As there was still daylight, we took a walk through the +principal streets, and found ourselves, as usual, in a bookseller's +shop; for not only are these favourite lounges of papa's, but we +generally find the booksellers intelligent and civil people, from whom +we can learn what is best worth seeing in the town. The one at +Louisville lauded very much the pork packing establishments in this +town, and said those at Chicago, and even those of Cincinnati, are not +to be compared with them; but without better statistics we must leave +this question undecided, for papa saw quite enough at Chicago to deter +him from wishing to go through the same sight at Louisville; we, +however, availed ourselves of the address he gave us of the largest +slave-dealer, and went to-day to see a slave-pen. + +We have lately been reading a most harrowing work, called the +"Autobiography of a Female Slave," whose experience was entirely +confined to Kentucky--indeed, to Louisville and the adjoining country +within a few miles of the Ohio. She describes Kentucky as offering the +worst specimen of a slave's life, and gives a horrid account of the +barbarity of the masters, and of the almost diabolical character of the +slave-dealers, and of those who hold subordinate situations under them. +We were hardly prepared, therefore, on reaching this pen to be received, +in the absence of the master, by a good-looking coloured housekeeper, +with a face as full of kindness and benevolence as one could wish to +see, but "the pen" had yesterday been cleared out, with the exception of +one woman with her six little children, the youngest only a year old, +and two young brothers, neither of whom the dealer had sold, as he had +been unable to find a purchaser who would take them without separating +them, and he was determined not to sell them till he could. In the case +both of the woman and of the two boys, their sale to the dealer had been +caused by the bankruptcy of the owner. The woman had a husband, but +having a different master, he retained his place, and his master +promised that when his wife got a new home he would send him to join +her. + +No doubt this separation of families is a crying evil, and perhaps the +greatest practical one, as respects hardship, to which the system is +necessarily subject; but certainly, from what we have seen and heard +to-day, it does not seem to be harshly done, and pains are taken to +avoid it: the woman said she had been always kindly treated, and there +was not the slightest difficulty made by the dark duenna to our +conversing with the slaves as freely as we liked, and she left us with +the whole group. The woman took us to see her baby, and we found it in a +large and well ventilated room, and she said they had always as much and +as good food as they could wish. She said she was forty-five years old, +and had ten children living, but the four eldest were grown up. The +eldest of those she had with her was a little girl of about thirteen; +she said, in answer to a question from papa, that the children had made +a great piece of work at parting with their father, but the woman +herself seemed quite cheerful and satisfied with her prospects. + +On our journey here there were a great many slaves in the car with us, +coming to pass their Sunday at Lexington. They seemed exceedingly merry, +and one, whom papa sat next, said he had accumulated $950, and that when +he got $1900, he would be able to purchase his freedom. He said his +master was a rich man, having $300,000, and that he was very well +treated; but that some masters did behave very badly to their slaves, +and often beat them whether they deserved it or not. From the specimen +we had of those in the cars, they seemed well-conditioned men, and all +paid the same fare that we did, and were treated with quite as much +attention. They seem to get some sort of extra wages from their masters +besides their food and raiment, out of which they can lay by if they are +provident, so as to be able to purchase their freedom in time; but they +do not seem always to care about this, as one man here has $4000, which +would much more than suffice to buy his freedom; but he prefers +remaining a slave. We shall probably see a good deal more of the +condition of the slaves within the next few days, so I shall say no more +upon the subject at present, excepting that all this does not alter the +view which we cannot help taking of the vileness of the institution, +though it certainly does not appear so very cruel in practice as it is +often represented to be by the anti-slavery party. + +There are only two great sights to be seen at Louisville. One, the +famous artesian well, 2086 feet deep, bored to reach a horrid sulphur +spring, which is, however, a very strong one as there are upwards of 200 +grains of sulphates of soda and magnesia in each gallon of water, and +upwards of 700 grains of chlorides of sulphur and magnesia. There is a +fountain over the well, in which the water rises 200 feet, but whether +by external pressure or by the natural force of the water, the deponent +sayeth not. It comes out in all sorts of forms, sometimes imitating +flowers, and sometimes a shower of snow, on which the negro who showed +it to us expatiated with great delight. When I said there were only two +sights to see, I alluded to this well, and to the magnificent steam +vessel, the "Pacific," which was lying at Portland, about three miles +down the Ohio, below the Falls; but I forgot altogether the Falls +themselves, and the splendid canal described in papa's book, through +which vessels are obliged to pass to get round them, which I ought not +to pass without some notice. The river here is upwards of a mile wide, +but the falls are most insignificant; and though the Guide Book +describes them as "picturesque in appearance," and that the islands give +the Ohio here "the appearance of a great many broken rivers of foam, +making their way over the falls, while the fine islands add greatly to +the beauty of the scene;" neither papa with his spectacles, nor I with +my keen optics, could see more than a ripple on the surface of the +water. These falls, however, are sufficient to prevent vessels of any +great burden ascending or descending beyond this point of the river, and +hence the necessity of the canal: but this splendid work, about which +papa's interest was very great, in consequence of what he had written +about it, proved as great a disappointment as the falls themselves. It +must, however, have been a work of great difficulty, as it is cut +through a solid bed of rock.[13] The locks are sufficiently capacious +to allow of the passage of steamers 180 feet long by 40 feet in breadth, +one of which we saw in the lock, and there were three others waiting to +pass through. + +These, to our eyes, seemed large and beautiful vessels; but they were +altogether eclipsed and their beauty forgotten, when we found ourselves +on board the "Pacific." This vessel was to sail in the evening, and is +one of the most splendid steamers on the river; certainly nothing could +exceed her comfort, infinitely beyond that of the Newport boat, as the +saloon was one long room, unbroken by steam-engine or anything else, to +obstruct the view from one end to the other. Brilliant fires were +burning in two large open stoves, at equal distances from either end, +and little tables were set all down the middle of the room, at which +parties of six each could sit and dine comfortably. The vessel was +upwards of 300 feet long, the cabin alone being about that length. On +each side of the cabin were large, comfortable sleeping berths, and on +the deck below, adjoining the servants' room, was a sweet little +nursery, containing, besides the beds and usual washing apparatus, four +or five pretty little rocking-chairs, for the children. We were shown +over the kitchen, and everything looked so complete and comfortable that +we longed to go down in her to New Orleans, whither she is bound, and +which she will reach in six days. Everything was exquisitely clean, the +roof and sides of the cabin being of that beautiful white varnish paint +which I have before described, which always looks so pure and lovely. +There was not much ornament, but all was in good taste. + +On leaving the "Pacific," we drove to the inn at Portland. The +Kentuckians are a fine tall race of men; but, tall as they are in +general, the landlord, Mr. Jim Porter, surpassed them all in height, +standing 7 feet 9 inches without his shoes. This is the same individual +of whom Dickens gave an amusing account in his American notes fifteen +years ago. + +We left Louisville at two o'clock, and came on to Lexington this +afternoon. The country is much more like England than anything we have +yet seen, being chiefly pasture land. The grass is that known here, and +very celebrated as the "blue grass" of Kentucky; though why or wherefore +it is so called we cannot discover. It is of prodigiously strong growth, +sometimes attaining two feet in height; but it is generally kept low, +either by cropping or cutting, and is cut sometimes five times a year. +The stock raised upon it is said to be very fine, and the animals are +very large and fine looking; but either from the meat not being kept +long enough, or from some cause which we cannot assign, the beef, when +brought to table, is very inferior to the good roast beef of Old +England. + +The road from Louisville to this place is pretty throughout, and seemed +quite lovely as we approached Frankfort, though it was getting too dark +as we passed that town to appreciate its beauties thoroughly. For some +miles before reaching it, the road passes through a hilly country, with +beautiful rounded knolls at a very short distance. The town is situated +on the Kentucky river, the most beautiful, perhaps, in America. In +crossing the long bridge, we had a fine view down its steep banks, with +the lights of the town close on its margin. The state Capitol which we +passed, is close to the railway, and is a marble building, with a +handsome portico. We were very sorry not to have stopped to pass +to-morrow, Sunday, at this place, but we were anxious to reach +Lexington, in order to get our letters. We have no great prospects here, +as the hotel, excepting the one at Jefferson City, is the worst we have +found in America. We had hardly set foot in it, when General Leslie +Combe called upon us, having been on the look-out for our arrival. He +claimed cousin-ship, having married a Miss T----, but we must leave it +to Uncle Harry to determine to which branch of the T---- family she can +claim kindred. + +_November 15th._--The weather has been unpropitious, and instead of +starting to explore the Upper Kentucky, which we had meant to do, we are +returning this afternoon to Cincinnati. We have, however, been able to +see all the sights here that are worth seeing, besides having been +edified yesterday by a nigger sermon, remarkable, even among nigger +sermons, for the wonderful stentorian powers of the preacher. The great +object of interest here is Ashland, so called from the ash timber with +which the place abounds. This was the residence of Henry Clay, the great +American statesman. General Combe gave us a letter of introduction to +Mr. James B. Clay, his eldest son, who is the present proprietor of the +"location." The house is very prettily "fixed up," to use another +American phrase; but we were disappointed with the 200 acres of park, +which Lord Morpeth, who passed a week at Ashland, is said to extol as +being like an English one. We saw nothing, either of the "locust +cypress, cedar, and other rare trees, with the rose, the jasmine, and +the ivy, clambering about them," which the handbook beautifully +describes. The fact is, the Americans, as I have before observed, have +not the slightest idea of a garden; and on papa's venturing to insinuate +this to Mr. Clay, he admitted it, and ascribed it to its undoubted +cause, the expense of labour in this country. + +From Ashland we went to what is really a Kentucky sight, the Fair +Ground. On an eminence at about a mile from the town, surrounded by +beautiful green pastures, there stands a large amphitheatre, capable of +holding conveniently 12,000 spectators. In the centre is a large grass +area, where the annual cattle show is held, and when filled it must be a +remarkable sight. From this we went to the Cemetery, which, like all +others in this country, is neatly laid out, and kept in very good order. +The grave-stones and monuments are invariably of beautiful white marble, +with the single exception of a very lofty monument which is being raised +to the memory of Mr. Clay. It is not yet finished, but to judge either +from what has been accomplished, or from a drawing papa saw of it on a +large scale, in a shop window, it is not likely to prove pretty, and +the yellowish stone of which it is being built, contrasts badly with the +white marble about it. + +We went next to see a very large pen, in which there were about forty +negroes for sale; they had within the last few days, sold about 100, who +had travelled by railway chained together. Those we saw, were divided +into groups, and we went through a variety of rooms in which they were +domiciled, and were allowed to converse freely with them all. This is +one of the largest slave markets in the United States, and is the great +place from which the South is supplied. There are, in this place, five +of these pens where slaves are kept on sale, and, judging from this one, +they are very clean and comfortable. But these pens give one a much more +revolting idea of the institution than seeing the slaves in regular +service. There was one family of a man and his wife and four little +children, the price of "the lot" being _$_3500, or 700_l._ sterling, but +neither the man nor the woman seemed to care much whether they were sold +together or not. There was one poor girl of eighteen, with a little +child of nine weeks old, who was sold, and she was to set off to-night +with her baby, for a place in the State. The slave-dealer himself was a +civil, well-spoken man, at least to us, and spoke quite freely of his +calling, but we thought he spoke harshly to the poor negroes, especially +to the man with the wife and four children. It appears he had bought the +man separately from the woman and children, in order to bring them +together, but the man had attempted to run away, and told us in excuse +he did not like leaving his clothes behind him; whereupon papa asked him +if he cared more for his clothes than his wife, and gave him a lecture +on his domestic duties. The dealer said they sometimes are much +distressed when separated from their wives, or husband and children, but +that it was an exception when this was so. One can hardly credit this, +but so far as it is true it is one of the worst features of slavery that +it can thus deaden all natural feelings of affection. We have spoken a +good deal to the slaves here, and they seem anxious to obtain their +freedom. The brother of one of the waiters at our hotel had twice been +swindled by his master of the money he had saved to purchase his +freedom. I spoke to the housemaid at our hotel, also a slave, who +shuddered with horror when she described the miseries occasioned by the +separation of relations. She had been sold several times, and was +separated from her husband by being sold away from him. She said the +poor negroes are generally taken out of their beds in the middle of the +night, when sold to the slave-dealers, as there is a sense of shame +about transacting this trade in the day-time. From what the slaves told +us, they are, no doubt, frequently treated with great severity by the +masters, though not always, as they sometimes fall into the hands of +kind people; but though they may have been many years in one family, +they never know from hour to hour what may be their fate, as the usual +cause for parting with slaves is, the master falling into difficulties, +when he sells them to raise money, or to pay his debts. The waiter told +us, he would rather starve as a freeman than remain a slave, and said +this with much feeling and energy. + +_Cincinnati, Nov. 15th_, 9 P.M.--We arrived here again this evening at +about seven o'clock. The road, the whole way from Lexington, 100 miles, +is very pretty, following the course of the Licking for a long way, with +high steep banks on both sides, sometimes rising into high hills, but +opening occasionally into wide valleys, with distant views of great +beauty. In many places the trees here have still their red, or rather +brown leaves, which formed a strange contrast with the thick snow +covering their branches and the ground beneath. The snow storm last +night, of which we had but the tail at Lexington, was very heavy +further north, and the snow on the ground lighted up by the moon, +enabled us to see and enjoy the beauty of the scenery as we approached +Covington, at which place we embarked on board the steamboat to cross +the Ohio. I omitted, when we were here before, to mention that in our +Sunday walk at Covington, when we first crossed over to Kentucky, we +witnessed on the banks of the river a baptism by immersion, though the +attending crowd was so large that we could not distinctly see what was +going on. We are told, that on these occasions, the minister takes the +candidate for baptism so far into the river, that they are frequently +drowned. I forget if I mentioned before that Covington is built +immediately opposite Cincinnati, at the junction of the Ohio and the +Licking, which is here a considerable river, about 100 yards wide, and +navigable for steamboats sixty miles further up. The streets of +Covington are all laid out in a direct line with the corresponding +streets in Cincinnati, and as the streets on both sides mount up the +hills on which the towns are built, the effect is very pretty, +especially at night, when the line of lamps, interrupted only by the +river, appears of immense length. When the river is frozen over, the +streets of the two cities may be said to form but one, as carts and +carriages can then pass uninterruptedly from the streets of Cincinnati, +to those on the opposite side, and _vice versa_. This snow storm, which +has made us beat a rapid retreat from the cold and draughty hotels in +Kentucky, makes us feel very glad to be back in this comfortable hotel. + +_Pittsburgh, Nov. 17th._--Lord Radstock made his appearance at +Cincinnati yesterday, having come from Louisville in a steamer. The day +was very bright and beautiful, though intensely cold; and as papa was +very anxious to show Lord Radstock the view of Clifton from the heights +above, we hired a carriage and went there. We were, however, somewhat +disappointed, for the trees were entirely stripped of the beautiful +foliage which clothed them when we saw them three weeks ago, and were +laden with snow, with which the ground also was deeply covered; and +although the effect was still pretty, this gave a harshness to the +scene, the details being brought out too much in relief. The same cause +detracted, no doubt, from the beauty of the scenery we passed through to +day on our way here, and greatly spoilt the appearance of the hills +which surround Pittsburgh. + +But I must not anticipate a description of our journey here, but first +tell you of our further proceedings at Cincinnati. Lord Radstock is much +interested in reformatories and houses of refuge, and we were glad to +visit with him the one situated at about three miles from the town, the +exterior only of which we had seen in our drive with Mr. Anderson. The +building is very large and capacious, having cost 2700_l._ It is capable +of holding 200 boys and 80 girls, and the complement of boys is +generally filled up; but there are seldom above 60 girls. The whole +establishment seems admirably conducted. The boys and girls are kept +apart, and each one has a very nice, clean bed-room, arranged in prison +fashion, and opening on to long galleries; but with nothing to give the +idea of a cell, so perfectly light and airy is each room. There is an +hospital for the boys and one for the girls, large and well ventilated +rooms; that of the girls is beautifully cheerful, with six or eight nice +clean beds; but it says a good deal for the attention paid to their +health, that out of the whole number of boys and girls, there was only +one boy on the sick list, and he did not appear to have much amiss with +him. This is somewhat surprising, as the rooms in which they work are +heated by warm water, to a temperature which we should have thought must +be very prejudicial to their health, but with this exception, they have +every advantage. A large playground, a very large chapel, where they +meet for prayers and reading the Bible, the boys below, and the girls in +a gallery, and large airy schoolrooms. The children are admitted from +the age of 7 up to 16, and the boys are usually kept till 21, and the +girls till they are 18. The girls are taught needlework and household +work, or rather are employed in this way, independently of two hours and +a half daily instruction in the school, and the boys are brought up to a +variety of trades, either as tailors, shoemakers, workers of various +articles in wire, or the like. The proceeds of their work go in part to +pay the expenses of the establishment, but the cost is, with this small +exception, defrayed by the town, and amounts to about 20_l._ annually +for each boy. These poor children are generally sent there by the +magistrates on conviction of some crime or misdemeanour, but are often +sent by parents when they have troublesome or refractory children, and +the result is, in most cases, very satisfactory. They all seemed very +happy, and the whole had much more the appearance of a large school, +than of anything partaking of the character of a prison. Having called +in the afternoon and taken leave of the Longworths, Andersons, and +others, who had shown us so much kindness when we were last here, we +started at half-past ten at night for this place. + +As we were already acquainted with the first part of the road to +Columbus, we thought we should not lose much by this plan, and we wished +besides to try the sleeping cars, which has not proved altogether a +successful experiment as far as papa is concerned, for he had very +little sleep, and is very headachy to-day in consequence. Thrower, too, +was quite knocked up by it; my powers of sleeping at all times and +places prevented my suffering in the same way, and I found these +sleeping cars very comfortable. They are ingeniously contrived to be +like an ordinary car by day; but by means of cushions spread between the +seats and a flat board let down half way from the ceiling, two tiers of +very comfortable beds are made on each side of the car, with a passage +between. The whole looks so like a cabin of a ship, that it is difficult +not to imagine oneself on board a steamboat. Twenty-four beds, each +large enough to hold two persons, can be made up in the cars, and the +strange jumble of ladies and gentlemen all huddled together was rather +ludicrous, and caused peals of laughter from some of the laughter-loving +American damsels. The cots are provided with pillows and warm quilted +counter-panes and curtains, which are all neatly packed away under the +seats in the daytime. The resemblance to the steamboat in papa's +half-waking moments seemed too much for his brain to be quite clear on +the subject of where he was. Thrower, who had shared my couch, got up +_sea sick_ at about four in the morning, the motion of the carriage not +suiting her while in a recumbent position, and retired to a seat at one +end of the carriage. As we neared Columbus, papa became very restless, +and made a descent from over my head, declaring the heat was +intolerable. "Where," said I, "is your cloth cap?" "Oh!" he answered, "I +have thrown that away long ago; that's gone to the fishes." He said he +had so tossed himself about, that he did not think he had a button left +on his coat; things were not, however, quite so bad as this, and on +finding my couch too cold for him, I at last succeeded in making your +dear restless fidgetty papa mount up again to his own place, where, to +my comfort, and no doubt to his own also, he soon fell asleep. I got up +at five and sat by poor Thrower, and watched the lights of the rising +sun on hills, valleys, and rivers for an hour; when in came the +conductor, and thrusting his lamp into the face of the sleepers, and +giving them a shake, told them to get up, a quarter of an hour being +allowed them for breakfast. In one second the whole place was alive; +down came gentlemen without their boots, and ladies with their night +caps, and in a few minutes all were busily employed in the inn, +breakfasting. I had said we did not care about missing the first part of +the road which we had seen before; but the joint light of a brilliant +full moon and the snow on the hills, made us see the dear old Ohio and +the bold Kentucky banks as clearly, almost, as if it had been daylight, +till we retired to our beds; and, even then, I could not help lying +awake to view the glorious scene out of my cabin window. + +When we got up this morning we were entering a new country, and for many +miles went along a beautiful valley of one of the tributaries of the +Ohio. We again fell in with the Ohio at Steubenville, having traced the +tributary down to its mouth. Our road then lay along the bank of the +Ohio for about seventy miles, and anything more perfect in river scenery +it would be difficult to imagine. Many large tributaries fell into it, +the mouths of which we crossed over long bridges, and from these bridges +had long vistas up their valleys. For about thirty miles we had the bold +banks of Virginia opposite to us; but, after that, we quitted the state +of Ohio, and for forty miles the course of the river was through the +state of Pennsylvania. A number of steamboats enlivened the scene, with +their huge stern wheels making a great commotion in the water. The river +too was studded with islands, and the continuous bend, the river taking +one prolonged curve from Steubenville to Pittsburg, added greatly to the +beauty of the scene. On approaching Pittsburg we crossed the Alleghany, +which is a fine broad stream. The Monongahela, which here meets it, is a +still finer one, and the two together, after their junction, constitute +the noble river which then, for the first time, takes the name of the +Ohio, or, as it is most appropriately called by the French, "La belle +riviere"--for anything more beautiful than the seventy miles of it which +we saw to-day it would be difficult to imagine. + +We are lodged here at a very comfortable hotel, facing the Alleghany +river. The town forms a triangle, situated between this river and the +Monongahela, and after dinner, having arrived here early, we took a walk +from the hotel, across the town, until we arrived at the latter river. +The opposite bank here is of great height, and we crossed a bridge, 1500 +feet long, with the magnanimous intention of going to the top of the +hill to see the magnificent prospect which the summit is said to +afford. But our strength, and breath, and courage failed us before we +had ascended a third of the height, although there is a good carriage +road up and in good condition, from the hard frost which still prevails. +The view, however, even at that height, was very fine, although it was +greatly marred by the smoky atmosphere which hangs over the city. After +recrossing the bridge we went to the point forming the apex of the +triangle, to see the confluence of the two rivers, and, as we could from +there look up both rivers and down the Ohio, the view is very +remarkable. The town itself disappointed us; but, perhaps, we expected +more than we ought reasonably to have done from a great and dirty +manufacturing town. + +_Harrisburgh, Nov. 18th._--We started this morning by the six o'clock +train in order to see the wonderful Pennsylvania railroad by daylight. +It is the great rival of the Baltimore and Ohio railway, on which we +travelled with Mr. Tyson, and we were rather anxious to have an +opportunity of comparing the two, which, having now seen them both, we +feel competent to do. The great change which nature presents now, to +what it did when the leaves were in full foliage, may make us underrate +the beauties of the road we passed over to-day, but, notwithstanding +this, we think there can be no doubt that the Baltimore and Ohio, taken +as a whole, is by far the most picturesque and beautiful. The length of +the two roads is very nearly the same; but, while the whole of the +Baltimore and Ohio was beautiful, one side of the mountain being as much +so as the other, the first part of the road to-day, till we reached the +summit level, was very much of the same character as many other mountain +regions we have passed. For many miles the road followed the course of +the Conemaugh, crossing and recrossing the river, but without any very +striking feature. But the moment we had passed through a tunnel, 3612 +feet long, and began the descent of 2200 feet, on the eastern side of +the Alleghany chain, the scene quite baffled description. The summit +level of the Baltimore and Ohio is 500 feet higher; but the descent +occupies a distance of seventeen miles, while the descent to-day was +effected in eleven, so that, with all our partiality for the Baltimore +and Ohio, it must be confessed there is nothing on it so wonderful and +sublime as this. One curve was quite appalling, and it was rendered more +so by the slow rate at which the train moved--not more, I should think, +than at the rate of two miles an hour--certainly not nearly so fast as +we could have walked, so that we had full leisure to contemplate the +chasm into which we should have been plunged headlong had the slightest +slip of the wheels occurred. How they can ever venture to pass it at +night is quite surprising. The curve is like a horse shoe, and goes +round the face of a rock which has been cut away to make room for the +road. Another superiority in the road we travelled to-day is the much +greater height of the surrounding mountains, and the extent of the +distant views;--but the greater height of the mountains had the +attendant disadvantage of the trees being chiefly pines, instead of the +lovely forest trees, of every description, which adorned the hills +amongst which we travelled in Maryland and Virginia, by the Baltimore +and Ohio railway. + +I must, however, do justice here to the eastern side of the mountains. +For more than 100 miles we closely followed the course of the Juniata, +from its source to where it ends its career by falling, quite a +magnificent river, into the Susquehanna, about twenty-two miles above +this place. After the junction, the noble Susquehanna was our companion +for that distance, this town being situated upon it. The source of the +Juniata is seen very soon after passing Altamont, and perhaps we were +more disposed to do justice to the beauty of the river, from the happy +frame of body and mind we were in, owing to the excellent dinner we had +just partaken of at that place, consisting of roast beef, roast turkey, +apple tart, cranberry preserve, and a most superlative Charlotte +Russe--pretty good fare for an hotel in a mountain pass! No wine or +stimulants of any kind were allowed, or what the consequence might have +been on papa's restless state of mind it would be difficult to say; as +it was, I counted that he rose from his seat to look at the view from +the other side of the car, thirty times in the space of an hour and a +half, making a move, therefore, upon an average, of once in every three +minutes; and this he afterwards continued to do as often as the road +crossed the river. I foolishly, at first, partook of his locomotive +propensities, but my exhausted frame soon gave way, so that he declares +I only saw one half of its beauties, namely, the half on the side where +I was seated; but this half was ample to satisfy any reasonable mortal. +I am at a loss to imagine what our fellow-travellers could have thought +of him, as they lounged on their seats, and scarcely ever condescended +to look out of window. + +We arrived here, not the least tired with our long journey, though it +occupied twelve hours, and were so fresh afterwards, that we started +after tea, this being the great annual Thanksgiving-day, to the nearest +place of worship we could find, which turned out to be a Baptist +"Church," as it is called here, where we heard a most admirable sermon, +and felt we had reason to offer up our thanks with as much earnestness +as any one of the congregation, for having been spared to make this +journey to the Far West, and to have returned to civilised life, without +encountering a single difficulty or drawback of any kind. I may as well +state, that this Thanksgiving-day was established by the Puritans, and +is still kept up throughout the whole of the United States, its object +being to return thanks for the blessings of the year, and more +especially for the harvest. There are services in all the churches, and +we much regretted not finding out till late yesterday, that this was the +day set apart for it, for had we known this, we should not have +travelled to-day; but once on our journey, with the fear of snow +accumulating in the mountains, we were afraid of stopping on the road, +and we were very glad to be able to attend the service this evening. +There is something very beautiful, I think, in thus setting apart one +day in the year for such a purpose, and it is interesting too, as being +a relic left by the Puritans. + +_November 19th._--We are quite charmed with this place, which is a rare +exception to all the other capitals we have seen, inasmuch as more has +not been undertaken than has been carried out; in fact, it has much more +the appearance of a village than of a large city. The beauty of the +river surpasses all description. It is a mile wide, and bends gracefully +towards the direction of the mountains through the gorge from which it +issues forth in its course towards Chesapeake Bay, and here, where the +hills recede to a distance, it expands into a great width, and its face +is covered with islands. The only drawback to its being a grand river is +its shallowness, and want of adaptation, therefore, to the purpose of +navigation. There are no splendid steamboats to be seen here as on the +Ohio, which make one feel that river, at the distance of more than 2000 +miles from the sea, to be a noble highway of commerce, linking together +with a common interest distant portions of this vast continent. In the +Susquehanna, one feels that there is nothing but its beauty to admire, +but this _is_ perfect. + +Two bridges connect the town with the opposite shore, each of them being +about a mile long. The weather is so piercingly cold, that we did not +venture across, but we took a long walk up the banks, of the river. The +town of Harrisburgh is very small, consisting of only three or four +streets parallel to the river, intersected by about a dozen others at +right angles to it. The centre one of these is a fine broad street, +closed in at the further end by the Capitol. This is a handsome, but +unpretending building of red brick, adorned by a portico, and, as usual, +surmounted by a dome. On entering at the top of a flight of stairs, +there is a circular area, covered in by the dome. Out of this, on one +side, is a very neat Senate House, and on the opposite side is the House +of Representatives. The State library, a very good one, is upstairs. The +flight of stairs up to this, which is continued up to the dome, is wide +and handsome, and of such easy ascent, that I ventured up to the top, in +order to take a bird's-eye view of the scenery we so much enjoyed below. +We were very well repaid for the trouble, especially as the gallery was +glazed, so that we could see the view without being exposed to the +cutting wind which was blowing outside. + +The houses here are generally of brick, painted a deep red colour, +which, not being in too great masses, and picked out with a good deal of +white, has a very good effect. Some few houses, however, especially +towards the outskirts of the town, were of wood, painted white. We +yesterday passed many villages and towns of these pretty houses, but +with the snow lying around them, scarcely whiter than the houses +themselves, they had a very chilly appearance, and looked far less +tempting than the houses of this description in New England when we +first saw them, each in its pretty clean lawn, and surrounded by a +lovely foliage. To return to this town--and, as a climax to its +perfection, it has, out and out, the most comfortable hotel we have seen +in America. It is quite a bijou, with a very pretty facade, and, being +new last year, everything is in the best style. The ground floor, as is +generally the case in this country, consists, like the Hotel du Louvre +in Paris, of good shops, which gives a gayer appearance to the whole +than if it were one mass of dwelling rooms. We find it so comfortable +that, instead of going on this afternoon to Philadelphia, we mean to +remain here to-night, and to go on to-morrow to New York. + +_New York, Nov. 22nd._--We took one more walk at Harrisburgh, before +starting on Saturday. The morning was lovely, and from the hill above +the town, which we had time to reach, the view was very beautiful. But, +of all the picturesque things that I have lately seen, I think the scene +which presented itself this morning, when I opened our bedroom shutters +at six o'clock, was the most striking. The night, on which I had looked +out before going to bed, was clear and most beautiful; but a few stars +now only remained as the day had begun to dawn, and the east was +reddened by the approaching sunrise. Below the window was a very large +market-place, lighted up and crowded with buyers and sellers. The women +all had on the usual bonnet worn by the lower classes in this +country,--a sun-bonnet, made of coloured cotton, with a very deep +curtain hanging down the back. They wore besides warm cloaks and +coloured shawls, and the men large wide-awakes. I have already described +the brilliantly red houses, and the day being sufficiently advanced to +bring out the colour very conspicuously, I think I never saw a prettier +or busier scene, nor one which I could have wished more to have drawn, +but there was no time even to attempt it. + +After leaving Harrisburgh our road lay for some miles along the course +of the Susquehanna, and papa, who had bought a copy of Gertrude of +Wyoming, made me read it aloud to him, to the great astonishment of our +fellow-travellers and at the expense of my lungs, the noise of a railway +carriage in America not being much suited for such an occupation. The +river presented a succession of rich scenery, being most picturesquely +studded with islands. We were quite sorry to take leave of it; but after +these few miles of great beauty, the road made a dash across the country +to Philadelphia. Papa, during the whole of the morning, had been most +wonderfully obtuse in his geography, and was altogether perplexed when, +before reaching Philadelphia, we came to the margin of the river we had +to cross to reach that town. He had been quite mystified all the morning +at Harrisburg, and at fault as to the direction in which the river was +running, and as to whether the streets we were in were at right angles +or parallel to it. This state of confusion became still worse when we +got into the carriage, as he had miscalculated on which side, after +leaving the town, we should first see the river, and had placed me on +the left side of the car, when it suddenly appeared, in all its glory, +on the right. He almost lost his temper, we all know how irritable he +_can_ become, and exclaimed impatiently,--"Well, are we now on this side +of the river or the other?" but his puzzle at Philadelphia was from the +river which we then came upon, being the Schuylkill, while he thought +we had got, in some mysterious way, to the Delaware, on the _west_ bank +of which the town is situated, as well as on the _east_ of the +Schuylkill. The discovery of the river it really was of course solved +the puzzle; but for a long time he insisted that the steamboat we were +to embark upon, later in the day, on the Delaware, must be the one we +now saw, and it was all the passengers could do to persuade him to sit +still. He exclaimed, "But why not stay on this side, instead of crossing +the river to cross back again to take the cars?" It was altogether a +ludicrous state of confusion that poor Papa was in; but it ended, not +only in our crossing the river, but in our traversing the whole town of +Philadelphia, at its very centre, in the railway cars, going through +beautiful streets and squares; and, as we went at a slow pace, we had a +capital view of the shops and of the town, which was looking very clean +and brilliant, the day being fine and frosty. + +We made no stay at Philadelphia, but at length taking the cars on the +east side of the Delaware, we proceeded in them to South Amboy; where, +embarking again, we had a fine run of twenty-four miles between Staten +Island and the coast of New Jersey, and reached this place in time for +dinner. We regretted thus turning our backs on Philadelphia, and +Baltimore, and Washington, without seeing more of them; but the time we +have spent in the west has exceeded what we had counted on this part of +our journey occupying, and we are anxious to get home to you all. + +On our railway and on the steamer, we had with us a body of the firemen +of Philadelphia, who were on their way to pay to their brother-firemen +here one of those complimentary visits we have spoken of. There was loud +cheering from their cars as we left Philadelphia, and as we passed +through the different towns on the road, which was well responded to by +the bystanders who had collected to witness the sight. The men were +dressed in a most picturesque uniform, and had a good brass band, which +played during the whole time that we were on board the steamer. On +landing, there were bonfires on the quay, and rockets let off in honour +of their arrival; but, though the crowd was great, we had not the +slightest difficulty in landing, for all these matters are carried on +with the greatest order in this country, which is the more remarkable, +as the people have very excitable natures. Late at night, when we were +going to bed, a company of firemen crossed this street with lights and +torches, with a band playing, and dragging a fire-engine covered with +lamps; forming quite a moving blaze of light. + +We yesterday spent our first Sunday in New York, having hitherto been +always away on that day; and we heard a wonderfully impressive and +admirable sermon from Dr. Tyng. The church in which he preached was of +very large dimensions, but his voice penetrated it throughout; he stood +on a small platform instead of a pulpit, with a low desk in front, so +that his whole figure could be seen. He had a good deal of action, but +it was in very good taste, and the matter of his sermon was beyond all +praise. The text was from the latter part of Col. i. 17, "And by Him all +things consist." In the afternoon we heard a good, but not so striking a +sermon, from Dr. Bedell; and it was suggested to us to go in the evening +to the Opera-house to hear a great Presbyterian preacher, Mr. Alexander; +but this we did not feel disposed to do. The Opera-house is being made +use of, as our Exeter Hall is, for Special Services. + +I think I may as well fill up the rest of this sheet by describing the +arrangements of American hotels. There are frequently two entrances, one +for ladies and the other for gentlemen. That for the ladies leads by a +private staircase to the ladies' drawing-room; and the gentlemen's +entrance opens upon what is called the office. Whether there are +separate entrances or not, the gentleman is at once conducted to the +office, which is usually crowded with spitters and smokers; and there he +enters his name in the travellers' book. This done, the waiter shows him +to the drawing-room, where the lady has been requested, in the meantime, +to wait, and they are then taken, often through long and wide passages, +to their bedrooms. A private drawing-room may be had by paying extra for +it; but the custom is to do without one, and to make use of the ladies' +drawing-room, which is always a pretty room, and often a very handsome +one. In it are invariably to be found a piano, at which the ladies +frequently perpetrate most dreadful music; a marble table, in the centre +of which always stand a silver tray and silver tankard and goblets +containing iced water, a rocking chair, besides other easy-chairs and +sofas, and a Bible. It is a rare thing not to find a Bible, the gift of +a Society, in every bedroom and drawing-room in the hotel. The bedrooms +never have bed-curtains, and sometimes no window-curtains; but the +windows usually have Venetian or solid shutters. + +The dining-hall is a spacious apartment, often 80 or sometimes 100 feet +long, and in some large hotels there are two of these, one used for +railway travellers, and the other for the regular guests. The meals are +always at a _table-d'hote_, with printed bills of fare; the dishes are +not handed round, as in Germany, but the guests are required to look at +the bill of fare and name their dishes, which does not seem a good plan, +as one's inclination is always to see how the dish looks before ordering +it. Everything comes as soon as asked for, and there is a great choice +of dishes. There is very little wine drunk at table, but to every hotel +there is appended a bar, where, we are told, the gentlemen make amends +for their moderation at table by discussing gin sling, sherry cobbler, +&c.; but of course I know nothing of this, excepting from hearsay. The +utmost extent of Papa's excesses on the rare occasions when he went into +these bars, was to get a glass of Saratoga water; but he has failed to +give me any description of what he saw. The breakfasts are going on +usually from seven till nine. The general dinner-hour is one; but there +is sometimes a choice of two hours, one and three. Tea, consisting of +tea, coffee, and sweet cakes and preserves, takes place at six; and +there is a cold meat supper at nine. Meals are charged extra if taken in +private. It is a good plan in travelling never to reserve oneself at +the end of the day's journey for the hotel dinner, as there is a chance +of arriving after it is over, when the alternative is to go without; the +railway dinners are quite as good, find often better, than those at the +hotel. The use of the ladies' drawing-room is restricted to ladies and +gentlemen accompanying them; no single gentleman, is allowed to sit in +it unless invited by a lady; but there is a separate reading-room for +gentlemen, supplied with newspapers, and there is generally another room +reserved for smoking, but the accommodation in these rooms is, in +general, very inferior to those set apart for the ladies. In the hall of +the hotel there is frequently a counter for the sale of newspapers, +books, and periodicals, and all hotels have a barber's shop, which is a +marvellous part of the establishment. The fixed charge at the hotels is +generally from 8s. to 10s. per day for each person. + +We have just settled to sail for England on the 1st December, so I shall +have only one more journal letter to write to you, and shall be myself +the bearer of it. + +FOOTNOTE: + +[13] The account referred to was written as far back as 1839, and is so +much more accurate a description of the Falls, and of the canal, than +that given in the Railway Guide, that I must here extract it. + +"The falls of the Ohio are occasioned by an irregular ledge of rock +stretching across the river. They are only perceptible at low water, the +whole descent being but twenty-two feet, while the difference of level +between the highest and lowest stages of the water is about sixty feet. +When the river is full, they present, therefore, no serious obstruction +to the navigation. To obviate the inconvenience, however, at low water, +a canal, called the Louisville and Portland Canal, has been constructed +round the falls, which is deserving of notice, as being, perhaps, the +most important work of the kind ever undertaken. The cross section of +the canal is 200 feet at the top of the bank, 50 feet at the bottom, and +42 feet deep, making its capacity about fifteen times greater than that +contemplated for the Erie Canal after its enlargement is completed: its +sides are sloping and paved with stone. The guard lock contains 21,775 +perches of masonry, being equal to that of fifteen locks on the New York +Canals; and three others contain 12,300 perches. This canal is capable +of admitting steamboats of the largest class. It is scarcely two miles +in length; but, considering the quantity of mason work, and the +difficulty of excavating earth and rock from so great a depth, together +with the contingencies attending its construction, from the fluctuations +in the depth of the river, it is probably no over-statement when it is +said, that the work in it is equal to that of seventy or seventy-five +miles of an ordinary canal." + + + + +LETTER XIII. + + + NEW YORK--ASTOR LIBRARY.--COOPER INSTITUTE.--BIBLE HOUSE.--DR. + RAE--DR. TYNG.--TARRYTOWN.--ALBANY.--SLEIGHING--FINAL RETURN TO + BOSTON.--HALIFAX.--VOYAGE HOME.--CONCLUSION. + + + Albany, Nov. 27th, 1858. + +My last letter was despatched to you on the 23rd inst.;--that evening we +dined at Mr. Aspinwall's. He has a handsome house in New York, and a +large picture gallery, and as we wished to see this by daylight, we +called on him after breakfast on the following morning, and had an +opportunity of examining the pictures, many of which are very good, +especially some by early Dutch masters. + +Mr. Aspinwall afterwards took us to the Astor Library. This library was +founded by the munificence of the late Mr. Astor, a very rich merchant, +who bequeathed a large sum of money for the purpose. It is remarkably +well arranged and pretty, and capable of containing about 300,000 +volumes. Mr. Cogswell, the librarian, showed us some of the most +valuable books. He was acquainted with Papa's name, as he had bought +his book in London for the library, and appeared familiar with its +contents. He said he valued it as filling up a gap in the financial +history of America that was not supplied by any work in this country. + +Mr. Aspinwall took us afterwards to the Cooper Institute, founded by Mr. +Peter Cooper, another very eminent citizen of New York, who has done +this good deed in his lifetime. He happened to be there, and as Mr. +Aspinwall introduced us to him, he showed us round the building himself. +He is a rich ironmonger, and an eccentric man. The building has cost +100,000_l._; it is intended for public lectures and for a school of +design. At the time we were there, some specimens of drawings, +penmanship, &c., by the scholars of the Free Schools in New York were +being exhibited, and were, in general, very creditable performances. We +went to the top of the building, and, the weather being remarkably clear +and fine, we had a good view of the town and of the surrounding country. +Anything like country, however, can only be seen on one side across the +Hudson, although, on the opposite side of New York Bay, Staten Island +can be seen stretching "right away" to the south; but the wonderful +sight is the immense city itself, extending for miles in a northern +direction. + +We rather crowded into this last day all the sights that we had hitherto +omitted to see at New York; for we went also to the Bible House, a very +large building near the Cooper Institute. In this Bible House not only +are copies of the Bible sold, as in our corresponding institution in +London, but the whole process of printing, making up, and binding the +Bible is carried on. The number of Bibles and Testaments issued by the +establishment is very great, amounting, during the last year, to +712,045. During that period there were 250,000 Bibles printed and +381,000 Testaments, besides 500 books for the blind printed in raised +types, making a total of 631,500 volumes; and this, owing to a scarcity +of funds, arising out of the late pecuniary pressure, is a decrease from +the year before of 110,000 volumes, so that it was from the store in +hand that the excess of the volumes issued above the number printed was +taken. These Bibles and Testaments are in every language, and in every +form and size. The machinery is worked by steam, and the immense +building is warmed from the same source. Some idea of its extent may be +conceived by the fact that there are twelve miles of pipes used in this +warming process.[14] + +After this hard day's work we dined at Mr. Russell's, to meet Dr. Rae, +the Arctic traveller, and in the evening we went to the Geographical +Society to hear a lecture on his last northern expedition, when he +gained all the information known respecting poor Sir John Franklin, in +search of whom he had been sent by the British Government. He showed us +many relics of that unfortunate party, consisting of spoons, +watch-cases, &c.; the lecture was very interesting, especially with +regard to the origin and transportation of boulders. He produced an +enormous head of a deer, which had a curious horn in front between the +two side ones; this is a common appendage to the antlers of the deer of +that region. He told us an amusing anecdote of his having been present +when Professor Owen was lecturing on this strange appearance, and +described the wisdom of this provision, to enable the animal to clear +its way in the snow in search of its food below it; but Dr. Rae was able +entirely to overset this theory, by stating that the whole horny +appendages of this deer are always shed before any snow makes its +appearance on the ground. + +At dinner we met Mr. Rutherford, who begged us to go after the lecture +to see his observatory, in which, he said, he had the best and largest +telescope in America, not excepting the one at Washington; we went +therefore to see it, though the lecture was not over till half-past ten, +and were repaid by a sight of Jupiter, and his belts and satellites: but +though the telescope was larger than the one at Washington, being of the +same focal length, and having an object glass nearly two inches wider, +it did not strike us as being so clear and good an instrument. It is +undoubtedly, however, a very fine one, and entirely of American make. +Much as we have had to record this day, there was more jumbled into it; +but instead of going to see the last sight I have to record, it obtruded +itself upon us at every turn. This was a military procession, flags +flying, &c., to commemorate the evacuation of the town of New York by +the British, after the first war of Independence. A great dinner is +always given on this day by the members of the Order of Cincinnati, and +Papa was asked to go to it, but our engagement to Mr. Russell prevented +his accepting the invitation. + +I think the only further thing of interest which I have to record about +our visit this time to New York, was our calling on Dr. Tyng; he is a +most interesting person, and talked much about revivals and slavery. He +said there was undoubtedly a greater degree of serious feeling gradually +spreading in New York, especially among the artisans and labouring +classes; but he could see nothing of that work of the Spirit on the +large scale which others speak of, and he thinks the nature and extent +of the revivals have been over-estimated. + +With regard to slavery, Dr. Tyng is a very good judge, as, for the first +six years of his ministry, he had a considerable parish in the slave +state of Maryland, extending over a large tract of plantation lands, +cultivated entirely by slaves. The slave population in this parish was +about 8000, and he says the treatment of the slaves was almost all that +could be desired for their temporal comfort, as far as good clothing, +good food, and kind treatment went, and he had known but very few cases +of slaves being ill-treated or even flogged during his six years' +residence there: still no one can condemn more strongly than he does the +whole system, as lowering and degrading the moral tone, both of the +white and the black population. + +As I shall probably have no occasion to allude again to slavery, as the +rest of our short stay on this continent will now be among the free +states, I may say I have seen nothing to lessen, and everything to +confirm, the strong impression I have always entertained respecting it. +Besides what we have seen, we have read as much as we could on the +subject, and must record a little book called "Aunt Sally, or the Cross +the Way to Freedom," as being the most faithful account of the evils of +slavery we have met with. It is the story of a female slave's life, and +is said to be strictly true and devoid of all exaggeration, and it is a +most touching account of the power of religion in her case, in upholding +her through a long life of trials and degradation.[15] + +On Friday, the 26th instant, we took our final leave of New York. We +left it by the Hudson River Railway, the same by which we went to West +Point two days after our arrival in America, and it was curious to +contrast our feelings on getting into the cars now with those which we +experienced when we first set our foot into them; we thought at first +that we never could encounter a long journey in them, and dreaded all +sorts of disasters. Yet now, independently of steamboat travelling, we +have travelled altogether in railways over more than 5500 miles, and it +is somewhat singular that in the great number of separate journeys we +have taken, we have only on one occasion been late on arriving at our +destination, which was on reaching Chicago. The train was then two hours +late in a journey of 281 miles, and that not owing to any accident, but +solely to the slippery state of the rails, after a heavy rain, which +rendered caution necessary. The only hitch from accident (if it was +one), was for five minutes at Rome, on the New York Central Railway, +when we were delayed for that time, on account of what William told us +was "something wrong with the engine." We have only 200 miles left to +travel between this and Boston, and we have great reason to be thankful +for having performed so long a journey not only in perfect safety, but +without any anxiety, and scarcely any fatigue.[16] + +One marked improvement in the eastern over the western railways, is in +the gentlemen's special accomplishment of spitting being much less +active in the east, owing to their chewing tobacco less vigorously. In +the west it is dreadful to see and hear how this habit goes on during +the whole day, not out of window, but on the floors of the cars and +omnibuses, and all over the hall and passages of the hotels. + +But to return to our journey from New York on the Hudson. It was a +beautiful day, and the scenery quite lovely. We had only twenty-seven +miles to go to Mr. Bartlett's, to whom we had brought letters from +England, and who asked us to pass the first night of our journey at his +country place near Tarrytown. On arriving at the station there, he drove +us to his house, which stands on an eminence three miles higher up the +river. The river here is rather more than three miles in width, but the +atmosphere was so clear that every house on the opposite bank could be +distinctly seen, and the opposite shore is so high, that we could hardly +imagine the river to be as wide as it is. The view from the house is +perfectly magnificent. The eye takes in a distance of thirty miles up +and down the river, there being here a long reach, having almost the +appearance of a lake, the river above and below not being more than from +a mile to a mile and a half in width. Immediately opposite Tarrytown is +the town of Nyach, which is connected with Tarrytown by a steam ferry. +In passing from Tarrytown to Mr. Bartlett's house, we drove through the +Sleepy Hollow, the scene of one of Washington Irving's tales, and passed +the old Dutch church, which is mentioned by him in the legend, as the +place of sanctuary where Ichabod took refuge. In fact, the whole scenery +is classic ground here; and Mr. Irving himself, who has rendered it so, +lives only two miles off, at Sunnyside. + +After giving us some luncheon, Mr. Bartlett took Papa a walk up a high +hill behind the house, the view from which he describes as perfectly +enchanting; but it would be difficult for anything to surpass the one +seen from the house, combining every possible feature of wood, hill, +dale, and water; but if I cannot describe this, it would be equally +impossible to describe the perfect taste and beauty of the house itself. +The chief features are the carving of the wooden staircase, the +chimney-pieces in the library and dining-room, and of the book-cases in +the library. The carpet of the drawing-room was Aubusson tapestry, and +the furniture was entirely from French patterns or imported from Paris, +where it was made on purpose for the different rooms; every part of the +house, including the bed-rooms, was filled with choice engravings. One +bed-room specially struck us, the paper and chintz furniture of which +were exactly of the same pattern of roses on a white ground, and the +effect was beautiful; but there were many others in equally good taste, +all with French papers. Hot and cold water were laid on in the rooms, +and hot air likewise, though not so as to be in the least oppressive. +Mrs. Bartlett's bed-room and dressing-room were the climax of all. The +woodwork throughout the house was varied in every story: there was black +oak, red pine, and white pine, all of very fine grain; the hall was +covered with encaustic tiles from Minton's; the offices were in keeping, +dairy, laundry, &c. Papa went over the farm and gardens, which were in +the same exquisite order; and there were greenhouses and hothouses, +which looked at a distance like a little Crystal Palace. Mrs. Bartlett +is a very amiable person, but a great invalid, and seldom leaves her +room. + +This morning we proceeded on our way to this place; before getting into +the train at twelve o'clock, we drove over to Sunnyside; but, alas! Mr. +Irving was out, and we could only walk about his grounds, and peep in at +his study window. As this brought us to Tarrytown sooner than we counted +upon, I had time to climb up one of the hills, and much enjoyed the +view, although it was not so extensive as the one Papa saw yesterday. As +we got northward, on our way to Albany, the snow, which had almost +disappeared at Tarrytown, became very deep, the land was covered with a +white garment, and the river partially with a coating of ice. At Hudson, +opposite the Catskill mountains, we, for the first time, saw sledging, +sledges having there taken the place of the usual carriages which come +to meet the train. There were many carts, also, and an omnibus, all on +sledges, and the whole had a singularly wintry appearance. + +We are housed again at the Delavan House, and find the twenty-four +damsels have donned long sleeves to their gowns, which are now of dark +cotton instead of pink; but their hoops are as large, and their faces as +impudent as ever, forcing Papa to restrain his grin, particularly when +they stand in double file on each side of the table, all in the same +pose, with their arms crossed before them, when we enter the +dining-room. + +We are glad to find ourselves again here, for this hotel bears away the +palm from all others we have seen in America, with the exception of that +at Harrisburgh, which can alone compare with it in the general beauty of +the rooms. To describe, for instance, the bedroom in which we are now +sitting. The room is about twenty-four feet square, having two large +windows looking to the street, and a mirror and handsome marble +consol-table between them. The windows have very handsome gilt cornices, +with tamboured muslin curtains, and others of a blue and gold coloured +damask; there are two large sofas, and four small chairs of dark walnut +wood, carved and covered with the same material as the curtains, and a +smaller chair with a tapestry seat--also a large rocking-chair covered +with Utrecht velvet. The bed is of prettily carved black walnut, the +wash-hand-stand the same, with marble slab; there is a very handsome +Brussels carpet, a large round table, at which I am now writing, a very +handsome bronze and ormolu lustre, with six gaslights, and two ormolu +candelabra on the chimney-piece. The chimney-piece is of white marble, +and over it is a most gorgeously carved mirror. The room is about +fourteen feet high; the ceiling slightly alcoved and painted in +medallions of flowers on a blue ground, with a great deal of very well +painted and gilt moulding, which Papa at first thought was really in +relief. The paper is a white ground, with a gold pattern, and a coloured +border above, and below, and at the angles of the room; the door leads +into a very fine wide passage, and there are two others, each leading +into an adjoining room, all painted pure white; so is the +skirting-board; and the door handles are white porcelain. Thrower's +room, next ours, is much the same, but of about half the size. There are +Venetian blinds to the windows, not made to draw up, but folding like +shutters, and divided into several small panels. Our two windows look +into a broad cheerful street, in which the snow is lying deep, and the +whole scene is enlivened, every now and then, by the sleighs and their +merry bells as they pass along. + +_Nov. 29th._--Yesterday the morning was very brilliant. Being desirous +of seeing a Shaker village, and the nature of their service, we had +ordered a vehicle over night to be ready at nine o'clock, when a sleigh +made its appearance at the door, with skins of fur and every appliance +to keep us warm. These sleighs are most elegant machines, and this one +had a hood, though this is not a common appendage. It was drawn by a +pair of horses, the driver standing in front. The road was, at first, up +a steep hill, but the horses seemed as if they had no weight behind +them. On reaching the high land the view, looking back upon the river, +was very pretty. The whole country was deeply covered with snow, and in +many places, where it had drifted, it had the appearance of large waves, +of which the crests curled gracefully over, and looked as if they had +been frozen in the act of curling: some of these crests or waves were +four or five feet above the level of the road. We were about an hour +reaching the village, and were much disappointed to find the gate at the +entrance closed, and a painted board hung on it, to announce there would +be no meeting that day. Nothing could exceed the apparent order and +decorum of the place; but we could not effect a closer approach, though +our driver tried hard to gain admittance for us. We therefore returned +to Albany, but took a different road home, and enjoyed our sleighing +much; and the cheerful sound of the bells round our horses' necks was +quite enlivening; still, in spite of our wraps, we must confess that we +were not sorry when it was over. On our return to the town we entered a +church and heard the end of a sermon. It was a large Baptist church; but +we were rather late, for we were told, by a boy at the door, that "the +text had been on about forty minutes;" but, to judge from the sample we +had of the discourse, we were probably no great losers. The church was a +handsome building, but we were chiefly attracted by the following +notice, in large letters, at the entrance. + + + UNION PRAYER MEETING DAILY IN THIS CHURCH, + + FROM TWELVE TO ONE O'CLOCK. + + "Come in, if only for a few moments; all are welcome." + + +After leaving the church we walked towards the Capitol, which is +situated at the end of a very wide street, State Street, and, as this +street rises by a tolerably steep ascent from the river, there is an +extensive view over the river and the adjacent country from the plateau +on which the Capitol stands. There are two very handsome buildings +adjoining, of fine white stone, with Greek porticoes; but the Capitol +itself, which is a considerably older building than the others, is of +red brick. We had not time to explore further, for a heavy snow storm +came on, which lasted for the rest of the day. + +_Boston, Nov. 30th._--Yesterday morning we started early for this +place, and the journey occupied the whole day. We had travelled this +road before when the country was rich in its summer clothing, and the +contrast was very strange as we saw it to-day. The heavy fall of snow +the night before had covered not only the ground but the trees of the +forests and the ponds and lakes, which were all frozen over. The +Connecticut, however, glided calmly along, though it too was frozen over +above the places where falls in the river obstructed the current. We +passed several of these, which had a curious appearance, long and +massive icicles hanging along the whole crest of the fall, and curiously +intermingling with the water which was pouring over the rocks. The +beautiful New England villages were as white as ever, the white snow +scarcely detracting from the purity of the whiteness of the buildings. +It was a splendid day, without a cloud in the sky, and the sun shining +on the snow gave it a most brilliant and sparkling appearance. + +To-day we have been chiefly engaged in shopping; but we contrived, +besides, to see the public Library and Athenaeum, as well as the Hospital +and Prison, which Papa went over with Lord Radstock when we were first +here, both of which fully bear out the account he gave me of them. We +feel quite sad to think that this is our last day in America, for we +have enjoyed ourselves much; Papa has, indeed, up till late this +evening, been engaged in business; but you are not to suppose from this +that he has never had any relaxation; I am most thankful to say, on the +contrary, that much of our time has been a holiday, and I trust his +health has much benefited by our travels. But, whatever our regrets may +be at leaving this interesting country, I need scarcely say with what +delight we look forward to a return home to our dear children, where, I +trust, a fortnight hence, to find you all well and prospering. We +embark, at nine to-morrow morning, in the "Canada" for Liverpool, where +I shall hope to add a few lines to this on landing. + +_December 11th, off Cape Clear._--As it may be late to-morrow before we +land, and we may not have time to write from Liverpool, I shall close +this now, or at all events only add a line from that place. Barring a +severe gale of wind, our voyage has been tolerably prosperous since we +left Halifax; but I must not anticipate, as I wish to say a little more +about Boston, for I omitted in my last day's Journal to mention the +admirable arrangement on the Western Railway, by which we came from +Albany, as regards checking the luggage. This practice, as I have +already told you, is universal, but, generally speaking, one of the +_employes_ of the Packet Express Company takes charge of the checks +before the passengers leave the cars, and for a trifling charge the +luggage is delivered at any hotel the passenger may direct; where this +is not done, the checks are usually given to the conductor of the +omnibus, of which almost every hotel sends its own to the station. But +this latter practice leads to much noise, each conductor shouting out +the name of his hotel, as is done at Boulogne and elsewhere on the +arrival of the packets. On gliding into the spacious station at Boston +we were prepared to encounter this struggle, our checks not having been +given up in the car; but, to our surprise, there was a total absence of +this noisy scene, and on looking out we saw along the platform a range +of beautiful gothic recesses, over each of which was written the name of +an hotel, and we had only to walk along till we came to "Tremont House," +when, without a word passing, we slipped into the hand of a man +stationed within, the checks for our baggage, he simply indicating "No. +2" as the omnibus we were to get into. Walking to the end of the +platform, we found a complete row of omnibuses, all consecutively +numbered, and marched in silence to No. 2, which in a minute or two +drove off with us and the other passengers destined for the Tremont +House; we found this, as before, a very comfortable hotel, and our +luggage was there within a few minutes after our arrival. + +Before quitting the subject of the American hotels, we ought to state +that, from what we hear, unhappy single gentlemen meet with a very +different fate to that of persons travelling in company with ladies. One +poor friend greatly bewailed his lot after he had left his wife at +Toronto; on presenting himself at the "office" of the hotel he used to +be eyed most suspiciously, especially when they saw his rough drab +coloured travelling dress, for the criterion of a genteel American is a +black coat and velvet collar. He was accordingly sent in general to a +garret, and other travellers have told us the same; one on board the +steamers quite confirmed this account, and told us he considered it a +piece of great luxury when he had a gaslight in his room. He made this +remark on our reading to him the account I have given of our room in +Albany and its splendid six-light candelabra. + +But to go on with our adventures: we embarked on board the steamer at 9 +A.M. on Wednesday, the 1st December. The view of the harbour of Boston, +formed by a variety of islands, was most beautiful, in spite of the deep +snow which covered them. The day was brilliantly sunny, but intensely +cold, and it continued bitterly cold till we reached Halifax on Thursday +night. The Boston steamers always touch at that place, and the liability +to detention by fogs in making the harbour, renders this passage often a +disagreeable one in the foggy season; but when the weather is as cold as +now, it is invariably clear, and we steered up the beautiful harbour of +Halifax with no interruption but that caused by the closing in of the +day, rendering it necessary to slacken our speed as we neared the town. +It was dark when we arrived, but having two hours to spare, we took a +walk, and after passing through the town-gate, saw what we could of the +place, respecting which I felt great interest, from my father having +been Chief-justice there many years; his picture by West, of which we +have a copy in D. P. H. by West himself, is at the Court House; but of +course we could not see it so late at night; and, in fact, could only go +to one or two shops to make some purchases as memorials of the place. It +began to snow hard before we returned on board, and the cold was so +intense, though less so since the snow began, that the upper part of +the harbour above where we stopped was frozen over. + +We took Sir Fenwick Williams, of Kars, and a great many other officers, +on board at Halifax, and sailed again at midnight. Next day the intense +cold returned, and a severe north-wester made it almost impossible to +keep on deck. Every wave that dashed over us, left its traces behind in +a sheet of ice spread over the deck, and in the icicles which were +hanging along the bulwarks, and formed a fringe to the boats which were +hanging inside the ship; one poor passenger, with a splendid beard, told +us he found it quite hard and stiff, and we could have told him how much +we admired the icicles which were hanging to it. The thermometer, +however, was only at 15 deg., it being the wind that made it so intensely +cold. I did not get on deck, for, owing to the coating of ice, walking +on it became a service of some danger; and I did my best to keep Papa +from going up, though he often insisted on doing so, to enjoy the beauty +of the scene. The captain says that it is sometimes most trying to be on +this coast in winter, as the thermometer, instead of being 15 deg. above +zero as it was then, is often 15 deg. below, when the ropes and everything +become frozen. This cold lasted till Monday, when we were clear of "the +banks," and fairly launched into the wide Atlantic. The wind continued +to blow strongly from the north-west, with a considerable amount of sea, +which put an end to my even thinking of going on deck, but Papa +persevered, and every day passed many hours there, walking up and down +and enjoying it much, especially as it was daily getting warmer. I +wished much I could have accompanied him, but by this time I was +completely prostrated by sea-sickness. + +The weather, though blowy, continued very fine till Tuesday at four +o'clock, when Papa came down and told me to prepare for a gale; an +ominous black cloud had shown itself in the north-west horizon; this +would not of itself have created much sensation, had it not been +accompanied by an extraordinary fall in the barometer; it had, in fact, +been falling for twenty-four hours, for at noon on Monday it stood +rather above 30, and at midnight was as low as 29.55, which, in these +latitudes, is a great fall. But on Tuesday, at nine A.M., it had fallen +to 28.80, when it began rapidly to sink, till at half-past three it +stood at 28.40, showing a fall of more than an inch and a half since the +preceding day at noon. It seems that this is almost unprecedented, so +that when the little black cloud appeared, every sail was taken in, and +the main topmast and fore top-gallantmast lowered down on deck, and this +was not done a bit too soon, for by half-past four, it blew a hurricane. +The captain told a naval officer on board, that he had thought of +putting the ship's head towards the gale, to let it blow past, but on +further consideration, he put her right before it, though at the expense +of losing a good deal of ground, as it made us go four points out of our +course. Papa, who was on deck, said it was most magnificent to hear the +fierce wind tearing past the vessel, and to see the ship not swaying in +the least one way or another, but driving forwards with the masts +perpendicular, as if irresistibly impelled through the water, without +appearing to feel the waves. But alas, alas, this absence of motion, +which was a paradise to me, lasted but some twenty minutes, while the +fury of the blast continued. We ran before the gale for the next four +hours, when it sufficiently moderated to enable us to resume our proper +course. + +The gale continued, however, till four next morning, and such a night I +never passed. The doctor said, neither he nor any officer in the ship +could sleep, and next morning the poor stewardess and our peculiar cabin +boy mournfully deplored their fate, the former being forced to confess +that, though for years accustomed to the sea, she had been desperately +sick. In fact no one had ever known the vessel to roll before as she did +this night, and the sounds were horrible. The effect of one sea, in +particular, striking the ship was appalling, from the perfect stillness +which followed it. The vessel seemed quite to stagger under the blow and +to be paralysed by it, so that several seconds must have elapsed before +the heavy rolling recommenced. This, and the creaking and groaning of +the vessel, had something solemn about it; but some minor sounds were +neither so grand nor so philosophically borne by either Papa or myself. +One of the most persevering of these arose from my carelessness in +having forgotten to bolt the door of a cupboard which I made use of, in +our cabin, the consequence of which was that, with every lurch of the +vessel, the door gave a violent slam, and our lamp having been put out +at midnight, as it invariably was, we were in total darkness, and +without the means of ascertaining whether the irritating noise +proceeded, as we suspected, from the cupboard door, or from one of the +doors having been left open in the passage adjoining our cabin. It would +have been dangerous to have got up in the dark, and with a violent +lurching of the vessel, to discover the real cause of this wearisome +noise. I had a strong feeling of self-reproach in my own mind at having +brought such a calamity on poor Papa, when it could have been avoided if +I had been a little more careful before going to bed. On, therefore, +the noise went, for the rest of that night, with great +regularity--slam--slam--slam--defying every attempt to obtain even five +minutes of sleep. With the first gleam of dawn I plainly saw that our +own peccant door was the cause, and I was able by that time, with some +caution, to rise and secure the bolt, and thus relieve ourselves, and +probably our neighbours, from the weary sound. + +Sleep, however, on my part was, under any circumstances, out of the +question, for I was under great anxiety lest Papa should be pitched out +of his berth, as he slept in the one above mine. Before retiring for the +night I had consulted the surgeon on the subject, having heard that a +steward had been once thrown out of his berth in this vessel under +similar circumstances. The surgeon assured me that he had never heard of +such an accident, and Papa reminded me that his height would save him +from such a calamity, for the berths being only six feet long he could, +by stretching himself out to his full length, wedge himself in and hold +on by his head and heels, and so, in fact, he did; but many passed the +night on the floors in their cabin, particularly the children, who had +not the advantage of being six feet three. Next morning the surgeon said +he would not himself have slept where Papa did, and I suspect few of the +upper berths were occupied. So much for the value of a medical opinion! + +I was very sorry I could not go on deck on either of the following days, +for though the gale had abated, the wind continued sufficiently strong +to keep up a splendid sea. Papa, however, says that it was more the +force of the wind when the gale first began, than the height of the sea +that was remarkable, as the gale did not last long enough to get up a +_proper_ sea, though what that would have been I cannot imagine, as the +effects, such as they were, were sufficiently serious for me. Since +then, things have gone on prosperously, but we have only to-night come +in sight of the lights on Cape Clear. The sea mercifully is somewhat +smoother, and has allowed me to write this long story; and I am going to +bed with a fairer prospect of sleep than I have had for the last few +nights. + +_Sunday night, Sept. 12th._--The wind got up again in the night, and has +delayed us much, so that we are still outside the bar of the Mersey: +for some hours it has been doubtful whether we should land to-night in +Old England, or pass another night on board. The uncertainty of our fate +has caused an evening of singular excitement, owing to several of the +passengers going perpetually on deck and bringing down news, either that +we were in the act of crossing the bar, or that we had crossed it, or +that all this was wrong and that we were still outside. As often as it +was announced, and that with the most positive assertion, that we should +land to-night, there was great joy and glee among all the passengers, +excepting ourselves and a few others who had visions of a late Custom +House examination in a dark and dismal night with pouring rain, and a +conviction that landing before morning would not bring us to London any +sooner than doing so early to-morrow, and so we secretly hoped all the +time that we were neither on nor over the bar. Betting, as usual, began +on the subject, and the excitement was still at its height when official +information was brought to us that we neither had attempted nor meant to +attempt to cross the bar till five o'clock to-morrow morning. We have +therefore easily made up our minds to what I fear is a disappointment to +many. We trust now to have a quiet night, for we are lying-to, and are +as still as at anchor, and hope on awaking to-morrow morning, to find +ourselves in the dock at Liverpool; in which case we shall rush up by an +early train to London. + +Here, therefore, ends our Journal; but before closing it, I must add a +few lines to say what cause we have had to feel deeply thankful for all +the mercies that have followed us by land and by sea. We have travelled +a distance of nearly 6000 miles, in a country where accidents frequently +occur, both on the railways and in steam-boats, and have never for one +moment been exposed to peril, or experienced one feeling of anxiety. We +have met everywhere with great attention, kindness, and hospitality, and +have been preserved in perfect health. Besides our land and river +journeys, we have made two long voyages across the wide Atlantic, and in +the midst of a tempest, which was a very severe one, the Hand of God +protected us and preserved us from danger, and, better still, kept our +minds in peace and confidence, and in remembrance that He who ruleth the +waves, could guide and succour us in every time of need, so that even I +felt no fear; Papa has had more experience of storms at sea, and was +less likely to feel any, but his confidence, too, was in knowing that we +were under Divine protection, and that our part was to TRUST; and in +this we had our reward. + +In thus enumerating the many subjects of thankfulness during our absence +from home, I must reckon as one of the chief of our blessings, the +comfort we have experienced in so constantly receiving the very best +accounts of you all; and when we think of the many thousands of miles +that have separated us, we may indeed feel full of gratitude that, +neither on one side of the ocean nor the other, have we had any reason +for anxiety concerning each other. In a few hours more, we shall, I +trust, have the joy and gladness of seeing all your dear faces again, +and be rejoicing together over our safe return from our interesting and +delightful expedition to the NEW WORLD. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[14] The issues of the British and Foreign Bible Society during the same +period were 1,517,858; but the circulation of the American Bible Society +is almost entirely limited to the American continent, and for their +foreign Missions, while a large portion of ours goes to supply the +Colonies. + +[15] Aunt Sally is a real person still living at Detroit on Lake +Michigan, with her son, the Rev. Isaac Williams, who is the minister +there of the Methodist church. + +[16] We must admit that our experience differs greatly from that of +many; and, looking at the statistics of railway travelling, accidents do +occur with frightful frequency. In a report recently published by the +Philadelphia and Reading Railway, the accidents which occurred on that +line alone in 1855, amounted to no less than 179 in a year, and this on +a line where there is no great press of traffic. In these accidents, 619 +cars were broken, 29 people killed, and 7 wounded. Things are since a +little improved; as, last year, 1858, there were only 26 cases of killed +and wounded, and, the Report adds, as if consolatory to the feelings of +the natives, "of these 18 were strangers." + + +THE END. + + +LONDON +PRINTED BY SPOTTISWOODE AND CO. +NEW-STREET SQUARE. + + * * * * * + +A CATALOGUE + +OF + +NEW WORKS IN GENERAL LITERATURE + +PUBLISHED BY + +LONGMAN, BROWN, GREEN, LONGMANS, AND ROBERTS + +39 PATERNOSTER ROW, LONDON. + + * * * * * + +CLASSIFIED INDEX + + ++Agriculture and Rural Affairs.+ + +Bayldon on Valuing Rents, &c. 5 +Cecil's Stud Farm 8 +Hoskyns's Talpa 11 +Loudon's Agriculture 14 +Low's Elements of Agriculture 14 +Morton on Landed Estates 17 + + ++Arts, Manufactures, and Architecture.+ + +Bourne on the Screw Propeller 6 +Brande's Dictionary of Science, &c. 6 + " Organic Chemistry 6 +Chevreul on Colour 8 +Cresy's Civil Engineering 8 +Fairbairn's Information for Engineers 9 +Gwilt's Encyclopaedia of Architecture 10 +Harford's Plates from M. Angelo 10 +Humphreys's _Parables_ Illuminated 12 +Jameson's Sacred and Legendary Art 12, 13 + " Commonplace-Book 13 +Konig's Pictorial Life of Luther 10 +Loudon's Rural Architecture 14 +Mac Dougall's Campaigns of Hannibal 15 + " Theory of War 15 +Moseley's Engineering 17 +Piesse's Art of Perfumery 18 +Richardson's Art of Horsemanship 19 +Scoffern on Projectiles, &c. 20 +Scrivenor on the Iron Trade 20 +Steam Engine, by the Artisan Club 6 +Ure's Dictionary of Arts, &c. 23 + + ++Biography.+ + +Arago's Lives of Scientific Men 5 +Brialmont's Wellington 6 +Bunsen's Hippolytus 7 +Crosse's (Andrew) Memorials 9 +Gleig's Essays 10 +Green's Princesses of England 10 +Harford's Life of Michael Angelo 10 +Lardner's Cabinet Cyclopaedia 13 +Maunder's Biographical Treasury 15 +Mountain's (Col.) Memoirs 17 +Parry's (Admiral) Memoirs 18 +Russell's Memoirs of Moore 16 + " (Dr.) Life of Mezzofanti 20 +SchimmelPenninck's (Mrs.) Life 20 +Southey's Life of Wesley 21 + " Life and Correspondence 21 +Stephen's Ecclesiastical Biography 22 +Strickland's Queens of England 22 +Sydney Smith's Memoirs 21 +Symonds's (Admiral) Memoirs 22 +Taylor's Loyola 22 + " Wesley 22 +Uwins's Memoirs and Letters 23 +Waterton's Autobiography and Essays 34 + + ++Books of General Utility.+ + +Acton's Bread-Book 5 + " Cookery-Book 5 +Black's Treatise on Brewing 6 +Cabinet Gazetteer 7 + " Lawyer 7 +Cust's Invalid's Own Book 9 +Gilbart's Logic for the Million 10 +Hints on Etiquette 11 +How to Nurse Sick Children 12 +Hudson's Executor's Guide 12 + " on Making Wills 12 +Kesteven's Domestic Medicine 13 +Lardner's Cabinet Cyclopaedia 13 +Loudon's Lady's Country Companion 14 +Maunder's Treasury of Knowledge 15 + " Biographical Treasury 15 + " Geographical Treasury 16 + " Scientific Treasury 15 + " Treasury of History 16 + " Natural History 16 +Piesse's Art of Perfumery 18 +Pocket and the Stud 10 +Pycroft's English Reading 19 +Reece's Medical Guide 19 +Rich's Companion to Latin Dictionary 19 +Richardson's Art of Horsemanship 19 +Riddle's Latin Dictionaries 19 +Roget's English Thesaurus 20 +Rowton's Debater 20 +Short Whist 21 +Thomson's Interest Tables 22 +Webster's Domestic Economy 24 +West on Children's Diseases 24 +Willich's Popular Tables 24 +Wilmot's Blackstone 24 + + ++Botany and Gardening.+ + +Hassall's British Freshwater Algae 11 +Hooker's British Flora 11 + " Guide to Kew Gardens 11 + " " " Kew Museum 11 +Lindley's Introduction to Botany 14 + " Theory of Horticulture 14 +Loudon's Hortus Britannicus 14 + " Amateur Gardener 14 + " Trees and Shrubs 14 + " Gardening 14 + " Plants 14 +Pereira's Materia Medica 18 +Rivers's Rose Amateur's Guide 19 +Wilson's British Mosses 24 + + ++Chronology.+ + +Blair's Chronological Tables 6 +Brewer's Historical Atlas 6 +Bunsen's Ancient Egypt 7 +Calendars of English State Papers 7 +Haydn's Beatson's Index 11 +Jaquemet's Chronology 13 + " Abridged Chronology 13 + + ++Commerce and Mercantile Affairs.+ + +Gilbart's Treatise on Banking 10 +Lorimer's Young Master Mariner 14 +Macleod's Banking 15 +M'Culloch's Commerce and Navigation 15 +Murray on French Finance 18 +Scrivenor on the Iron Trade 20 +Thomson's Interest Tables 22 +Tooke's History of Prices 22 + + ++Criticism, History, and Memoirs.+ + +Blair's Chron. and Historical Tables 6 +Brewer's Historical Atlas 6 +Bunsen's Ancient Egypt 7 + " Hippolytus 7 +Calendars of English State Papers 7 +Capgrave's Illustrious Henries 8 +Chapman's Gustavus Adolphus 8 +Chronicles and Memorials of England 8 +Connolly's Sappers and Miners 8 +Conybeare and Howson's St. Paul 8 +Crowe's History of France 9 +Fischer's Francis Bacon 9 +Gleig's Essays 10 +Gurney's Historical Sketches 10 +Hayward's Essays 11 +Herschel's Essays and Addresses 11 +Jeffrey's (Lord) Contributions 13 +Kemble's Anglo-Saxons 13 +Lardner's Cabinet Cyclopaedia 13 +Macaulay's Critical and Hist. Essays 14 + " History of England 14 + " Speeches 14 +Mackintosh's Miscellaneous Works 15 + " History of England 15 +M'Culloch's Geographical Dictionary 15 +Maunder's Treasury of History 16 +Merivale's History of Rome 16 + " Roman Republic 16 +Milner's Church History 16 +Moore's (Thomas) Memoirs, &c. 16 +Mure's Greek Literature 17 +Normanby's Year of Revolution 18 +Perry's Franks 18 +Raikes's Journal 19 +Riddle's Latin Dictionaries 19 +Rogers's Essays from Edinb. Review 20 +Roget's English Thesaurus 20 +Schmitz's History of Greece 20 +Southey's Doctor 21 +Stephen's Ecclesiastical Biography 22 + " Lectures on French History 22 +Sydney Smith's Works 21 + " Lectures 21 + " Memoirs 21 +Taylor's Loyola 22 + " Wesley 22 +Thirlwall's History of Greece 22 +Thomas's Historical Notes 27 +Townsend's State Trials 22 +Turner's Anglo-Saxons 23 + " Middle Ages 23 + " Sacred History of the World 23 +Uwins's Memoirs and Letters 23 +Vehse's Austrian Court 23 +Wade's England's Greatness 24 +Young's Christ of History 24 + + ++Geography and Atlases.+ + +Brewer's Historical Atlas 6 +Butler's Geography and Atlases 7 +Cabinet Gazetteer 7 +Johnston's General Gazetteer 13 +M'Culloch's Geographical Dictionary 16 +Maunder's Treasury of Geography 16 +Murray's Encyclopaedia of Geography 17 +Sharp's British Gazetteer 21 + + ++Juvenile Books.+ + +Amy Herbert 20 +Cleve Hall 20 +Earl's Daughter (The) 20 +Experience of Life 20 +Gertrude 20 +Howitt's Boy's Country Book 12 + " (Mary) Children's Year 12 +Ivors 20 +Katharine Ashton 20 +Laneton Parsonage 20 +Margaret Percival 20 +Pycroft's Collegian's Guide 19 + + ++Medicine, Surgery, &c.+ + +Brodie's Psychological Inquiries 7 +Bull's Hints to Mothers 6 + " Management of Children 6 +Copland's Dictionary of Medicine 8 +Cust's Invalid's Own Book 9 +Holland's Mental Physiology 11 + " Medical Notes and Reflections 11 +How to Nurse Sick Children 12 +Kesteven's Domestic Medicine 13 +Pereira's Materia Medica 18 +Reece's Medical Guide 19 +Richardson's Cold-water Cure 19 +Spencer's Principles of Psychology 21 +West on Diseases of Infancy 24 + + ++Miscellaneous Literature.+ + +Bacon's (Lord) Works 5 +Defence of _Eclipse of Faith_ 9 +Eclipse of Faith 9 +Greathed's Letters from Delhi 10 +Greyson's Select Correspondence 10 +Gurney's Evening Recreations 10 +Hassall's Adulterations Detected, &c. 11 +Haydn's Book of Dignities 11 +Holland's Mental Physiology 11 +Hooker's Kew Guides 11 +Howitt's Rural Life of England 12 + " Visits to Remarkable Places 12 +Jameson's Commonplace-Book 13 +Jeffrey's (Lord) Contributions 13 +Last of the Old Squires 18 +Letters of a Betrothed 13 +Macaulay's Critical and Hist. Essays 14 + " Speeches 14 +Mackintosh's Miscellaneous Works 15 +Martineau's Miscellanies 15 +Pycroft's English Reading 19 +Raikes on the Indian Revolt 19 +Rees's Siege of Lucknow 19 +Rich's Companion to Latin Dictionary 19 +Riddle's Latin Dictionaries 19 +Rowton's Debater 20 +Seaward's Narrative of his Shipwreck 20 +Sir Roger De Coverley 21 +Smith's (Rev. Sydney) Works 21 +Southey's Doctor, &c. 21 +Spencer's Essays 21 +Stephen's Essays 22 +Stow's Training System 22 +Thomson's Laws of Thought 22 +Tighe and Davis's Windsor 22 +Townsend's State Trials 22 +Yonge's English-Greek Lexicon 24 + " Latin Gradus 24 +Zumpt's Latin Grammar 24 + + ++Natural History in general.+ + +Catlow's Popular Conchology 8 +Ephemera's Book of the Salmon 9 +Garratt's Marvels of Instinct 10 +Gosse's Natural History of Jamaica 10 +Kirby and Spence's Entomology 13 +Lee's Elements of Natural History 13 +Maunder's Natural History 16 +Quatrefages' Rambles of a Naturalist 19 +Turton's Shells of the British Islands 23 +Van der Hoeven's Handbook of Zoology 23 +Waterton's Essays on Natural History 24 +Youatt's The Dog 24 + " The Horse 24 + + ++One-Volume Encyclopaedias and Dictionaries.+ + +Blaine's Rural Sports 6 +Brande's Science, Literature, and Art 6 +Copland's Dictionary of Medicine 8 +Cresy's Civil Engineering 8 +Gwilt's Architecture 10 +Johnston's Geographical Dictionary 13 +Loudon's Agriculture 14 + " Rural Architecture 14 + " Gardening 14 + " Plants 14 + " Trees and Shrubs 14 +M'Culloch's Geographical Dictionary 15 + " Dictionary of Commerce 15 +Murray's Encyclopaedia of Geography 17 +Sharp's British Gazetteer 21 +Ure's Dictionary of Arts, &c. 23 +Webster's Domestic Economy 24 + + ++Religious and Moral Works.+ + +Amy Herbert 20 +Bloomfield's Greek Testament 6 +Calvert's Wife's Manual 8 +Cleve Hall 20 +Conybeare and Howson's St. Paul 8 +Cotton's Instructions in Christianity 8 +Dale's Domestic Liturgy 9 +Defence of _Eclipse of Faith_ 9 +Earl's Daughter (The) 20 +Eclipse of Faith 9 +Englishman's Greek Concordance 9 + " Heb. & Chald. Concord. 9 +Experience (The) of Life 20 +Gertrude 20 +Harrison's Light of the Forge 10 +Horne's Introduction to Scriptures 11 + " Abridgment of ditto 11 +Huc's Christianity in China 12 +Humphrey's _Parables_ Illuminated 12 +Ivors, by the Author of _Amy Herbert_ 20 +Jameson's Saints and Martyrs 12 + " Monastic Legends 13 + " Legends of the Madonna 13 + " on Female Employment 13 +Jeremy Taylor's Works 13 +Katharine Ashton 21 +Konig's Pictorial Life of Luther 10 +Laneton Parsonage 20 +Letters to my Unknown Friends 13 + " on Happiness 13 +Lyra Germanica 7 +Maguire's Rome 15 +Margaret Percival 20 +Martineau's Christian Life 15 + " Hymns 15 + " Studies of Christianity 15 +Merivale's Christian Records 16 +Milner's Church of Christ 26 +Moore on the Use of the Body 26 + " " Soul and Body 26 + " 's Man and his Motives 26 +Morning Clouds 17 +Neale's Closing Scene 18 +Pattison's Earth and Word 18 +Powell's Christianity without Judaism 19 +Readings for Lent 20 + " Confirmation 20 +Riddle's Household Prayers 19 +Robinson's Lexicon to the Greek Testament 20 +Saints our Example 20 +Sermon in the Mount 20 +Sinclair's Journey of Life 21 +Smith's (Sydney) Moral Philosophy 21 + " (G.V.) Assyrian Prophecies 21 + " (G.) Wesleyan Methodism 21 + " (J.) Shipwreck of St. Paul 21 +Southey's Life of Wesley 21 +Stephen's Ecclesiastical Biography 22 +Taylor's Loyola 22 + " Wesley 22 +Theologia Germanica 7 +Thumb Bible (The) 22 +Turner's Sacred History 23 +Young's Christ of History 24 + " Mystery 24 + + ++Poetry and the Drama.+ + +Aikin's (Dr.) British Poets 5 +Arnold's Merope 5 + " Poems 5 +Baillie's (Joanna) Poetical Works 5 +Calvert's Wife's Manual 8 +Goldsmith's Poems, illustrated 10 +Horace, edited by Yonge 24 +L. E. L.'s Poetical Works 13 +Linwood's Anthologia Oxoniensis 14 +Lyra Germanica 7 +Macaulay's Laws of Ancient Rome 14 +MacDonald's Within and Without 15 + " Poems 14 +Montgomery's Poetical Works 26 +Moore's Poetical Works 26 + " Selections (illustrated) 26 + " Lalla Rookh 17 + " Irish Melodies 17 + " National Melodies 17 + " Sacred Songs (with Music) 17 + " Songs and Ballads 16 +Reade's Poetical Works 19 +Shakspeare, by Bowdler 20 +Southey's Poetical Works 21 +Thomson's Seasons, illustrated 22 + + ++Political Economy & Statistics.+ + +Macleod's Political Economy 15 +M'Culloch's Geog. Statist. &c. Dict. 15 + " Dictionary of Commerce 15 +Willich's Popular Tables 21 + + ++The Sciences in general and Mathematics.+ + +Arago's Meteorological Essays 5 + " Popular Astronomy 5 +Bourne on the Screw Propeller 6 + " 's Catechism of Steam-Engine 6 +Boyd's Naval Cadet's Manual 6 +Brande's Dictionary of Science, &c. 6 + " Lectures on Organic Chemistry 6 +Cresy's Civil Engineering 8 +Delabeche's Geology of Cornwall, &c. 9 +De la Rive's Electricity 9 +Grove's Correlation of Physical Forces 10 +Herschel's Outlines of Astronomy 11 +Holland's Mental Physiology 11 +Humboldt's Aspects of Nature 12 + " Cosmos 12 +Hunt on Light 12 +Lardner's Cabinet Cyclopaedia 13 +Marcet's (Mrs.) Conversations 15 +Morell's Elements of Psychology 17 +Moseley's Engineering and Architecture 17 +Ogilvie's Master-Builder's Plan 18 +Owen's Lectures on Comp. Anatomy 18 +Pereira on Polarised Light 18 +Peschel's Elements of Physics 18 +Phillips Fossils of Cornwall 18 + " Mineralogy 18 + " Guide to Geology 18 +Portlock's Geology of Londonderry 18 +Powell's Unity of Worlds 19 + " Christianity without Judaism 19 +Smee's Electro-Metallurgy 21 +Steam-Engine (The) 6 + + ++Rural Sports.+ + +Baker's Rifle and Hound in Ceylon 5 +Blaine's Dictionary of Sports 6 +Cecil's Stable Practice 8 + " Stud Farm 8 +Davy's Fishing Excursions, 2 Series 9 +Ephemera on Angling 9 + " Book of the Salmon 9 +Hawker's Young Sportsman 11 +The Hunting-Field 10 +Idle's Hints on Shooting 12 +Pocket and the Stud 10 +Practical Horsemanship 10 +Pycroft's Cricket-Field 9 +Rarey's Horse-Taming 19 +Richardson's Horsemanship 19 +Ronalds's Fly-Fisher's Entomology 20 +Stable Talk and Table Talk 10 +Stonehenge on the Dog 22 + " " Greyhound 22 +Thacker's Courser's Guide 22 +The Stud, for Practical Purposes 10 + + ++Veterinary Medicine, &c.+ + +Cecil's Stable Practice 8 + " Stud Farm 8 +Hunting-Field (The) 10 +Miles's Horse-Shoeing 26 + " on the Horse's Foot 26 +Pocket and the Stud 10 +Practical Horsemanship 10 +Rarey's Horse-Taming 19 +Richardson's Horsemanship 19 +Stable Talk and Table Talk 10 +Stonehenge on the Dog 22 +Stud (The) 10 +Youatt's The Dog 24 + " The Horse 24 + + ++Voyages and Travels.+ + +Baker's Wanderings in Ceylon 5 +Barth's African Travels 5 +Burton's East Africa 7 + " Medina and Mecca 7 +Davies's Visit to Algiers 9 +Domenech's Texas and Mexico 9 +Forester's Sardinia and Corsica 10 +Hinchliff's Travels in the Alps 11 +Howitt's Art-Student in Munich 12 + " (W.) Victoria 12 +Huc's Chinese Empire 12 +Hudson and Kennedy's Mont Blanc 12 +Humboldt's Aspects of Nature 12 +Hutchinson's Western Africa 12 +M'Clure's North-West Passage 18 +Mac Dougall's Voyage of the Resolute 15 +Osborn's Quedah 18 +Scherzer's Central America 20 +Seaward's Narrative 20 +Snow's Tierra del Fuego 21 +Von Tempsky's Mexico and Guatemala 23 +Wanderings in the Land of Ham 24 +Weld's Vacations in Ireland 24 + " United States and Canada 24 + + ++Works of Fiction.+ + +Cruikshank's Falstaff 9 +Heirs of Cheveleigh 11 +Howitt's Tallangetta 12 +Moore's Epicurean 17 +Sir Roger De Coverley 21 +Sketches (The), Three Tales 21 +Southey's Doctor, &c. 21 +Trollope's Barchester Towers 22 + " Warden 22 +Ursula 20 + + + + + +ALPHABETICAL CATALOGUE + +of + +NEW WORKS and NEW EDITIONS + +PUBLISHED BY + +LONGMAN, BROWN, GREEN, LONGMANS, & ROBERTS, + +PATERNOSTER ROW, LONDON. + + ++Miss Acton's Modern Cookery for Private Families+, reduced to a System +of Easy Practice in a Series of carefully-tested Receipts, in which the +Principles of Baron Liebig and other eminent writers have been as much +as possible applied and explained. 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SCHMITZ, F.R.S.E.: With numerous +Additions and Corrections by the Author and Translator. 8vo. 14s. + + * * * * * + +DOMENECH'S MISSIONARY TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AMERICA. + +Just published, in One Volume, 8vo. with Map, price 10s. 6d. cloth, + +MISSIONARY ADVENTURES + +IN + +TEXAS AND MEXICO: + +A PERSONAL NARRATIVE OF SIX YEARS' SOJOURN IN THOSE REGIONS. + +By the Abbe DOMENECH. + +Translated from the French under the author's superintendence. + +OPINIONS OF THE PRESS. + + +"The chequered and perilous existence of a Catholic missionary +consecrating himself to the cure of souls in the wilds of Texas and +Western America, his physical and moral struggles, are here portrayed +with a vivid truthfulness well calculated to arrest the sympathy of our +readers.... This book requires no further recommendation from as than +the analysis here given. Since the perusal of Livingstone's Africa, we +have read no traveller's journal with more instruction and pleasure. It +is eminently suggestive, too." + LEADER. + + +"Domenech's tone throughout is one of profound conviction; and the +hardships which he encountered, and which he relates with so much +simplicity and modesty as to enforce belief, are proof that he took his +mission to heart. In the two journeys he performed to America--journeys +that would have supplied a diffuse book-maker with matter for many +volumes, the Abbe was almost every day exposed to dangers of his +life--sometimes from the climate, sometimes from the privations to which +he was subjected, now from the rough character of the country he +constantly compelled to traverse in his spiritual journeys, anon from +the violence of colonists or Indians.... It will be seen that readers +who expect an infinity of enjoyment from these missionary adventures +will not be disappointed." + DAILY TELEGRAPH. + + +"The good and brave young Abbe Domenech, whose personal narrative we may +at once say we have found more readable and more informing than a dozen +volumes of ordinary adventure, is not unworthy to be named with Huc in +the annals of missionary enterprise; and we know not how to give him +higher praise. We speak of personal characteristics, and in these--in +the qualifications for a life of self-denying severity, not exercised +under the protecting shadow of a cloister, but in hourly conflict with +danger and necessity--the one looks to us like a younger brother in +likeness to the other. His account of Texas, its physical geography, its +earlier and later history, its populations, settled and nomad, and of +the history and customs of the Indian tribes and their forms of +religious worship, is concisely full and clear; and now that the new +destiny of these regions is beginning to unfold itself, we recommend to +particular attention the few pages in which all that is worth knowing +about their past and present condition is summed up.... To us, the pages +in which the Abbe Domenech confesses the trials and sorrows of his own +heart are the most interesting of his book. They bear the stamp of a +perfect and most touching sincerity; and, as we read them, we are more +and more impressed with the truth which they convey to all churches and +all sects. It has been well said, that Heaven is a character before it +is a place. The lesson which this personal narrative of a poor +missionary teaches, stems to us to be that religion is a life before it +is a dogma." + SATURDAY REVIEW. + + * * * * * + +London: LONGMAN, BROWN, and CO., Paternoster Row. + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of First Impressions of the New World, by +Isabella Strange Trotter + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF THE NEW WORLD *** + +***** This file should be named 18634.txt or 18634.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/1/8/6/3/18634/ + +Produced by Robert Cicconetti, Martin Pettit and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This +file was produced from images generously made available +by the Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions +(www.canadiana.org)) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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