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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/2067-0.txt b/2067-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..a9cc77d --- /dev/null +++ b/2067-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,8851 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Beasts, Men and Gods, by Ferdinand Ossendowski + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Beasts, Men and Gods + +Author: Ferdinand Ossendowski + +Translator: Lewis Stanton Palen + +Release Date: May 13, 2006 [EBook #2067] +Last Updated: November 17, 2016 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: UTF-8 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BEASTS, MEN AND GODS *** + + + + +Produced by Donald Lainson + + + + + +BEASTS, MEN AND GODS + +by Ferdinand Ossendowski + + + + +EXPLANATORY NOTE + + +When one of the leading publicists in America, Dr. Albert Shaw of +the Review of Reviews, after reading the manuscript of Part I of +this volume, characterized the author as “The Robinson Crusoe of the +Twentieth Century,” he touched the feature of the narrative which is at +once most attractive and most dangerous; for the succession of trying +and thrilling experiences recorded seems in places too highly colored +to be real or, sometimes, even possible in this day and generation. +I desire, therefore, to assure the reader at the outset that Dr. +Ossendowski is a man of long and diverse experience as a scientist and +writer with a training for careful observation which should put +the stamp of accuracy and reliability on his chronicle. Only the +extraordinary events of these extraordinary times could have thrown one +with so many talents back into the surroundings of the “Cave Man” and +thus given to us this unusual account of personal adventure, of great +human mysteries and of the political and religious motives which are +energizing the “Heart of Asia.” + +My share in the work has been to induce Dr. Ossendowski to write his +story at this time and to assist him in rendering his experiences into +English. + +LEWIS STANTON PALEN. + + + + +CONTENTS + + +PART I. DRAWING LOTS WITH DEATH + + +CHAPTER + +I. INTO THE FORESTS + +II. THE SECRET OF MY FELLOW TRAVELER + +III. THE STRUGGLE FOR LIFE + +IV. A FISHERMAN + +V. A DANGEROUS NEIGHBOR + +VI. A RIVER IN TRAVAIL + +VII. THROUGH SOVIET SIBERIA + +VIII. THREE DAYS ON THE EDGE OF A PRECIPICE + +IX. TO THE SAYANS AND SAFETY + +X. THE BATTLE OF THE SEYBI + +XI. THE BARRIER OF RED PARTISANS + +XII. IN THE COUNTRY OF ETERNAL PEACE + +XIII. MYSTERIES, MIRACLES AND A NEW FIGHT + +XIV. THE RIVER OF THE DEVIL + +XV. THE MARCH OF GHOSTS + +XVI. IN MYSTERIOUS TIBET + + + +PART II. THE LAND OF DEMONS + + +XVII. MYSTERIOUS MONGOLIA + +XVIII. THE MYSTERIOUS LAMA AVENGER + +XIX. WILD CHAHARS + +XX. THE DEMON OF JAGISSTAI + +XXI. THE NEST OF DEATH + +XXII. AMONG THE MURDERERS + +XXIII. ON A VOLCANO + +XXIV. A BLOODY CHASTISEMENT + +XXV. HARASSING DAYS + +XXVI. THE BAND OF WHITE HUNGHUTZES + +XXVII. MYSTERY IN A SMALL TEMPLE + +XXVIII. THE BREATH OF DEATH + + + +PART III. THE STRAINING HEART OF ASIA + + +XXIX. ON THE ROAD OF GREAT CONQUERORS + +XXX. ARRESTED! + +XXXI. TRAVELING BY “URGA” + +XXXII. AN OLD FORTUNE TELLER + +XXXIII. “DEATH FROM THE WHITE MAN WILL STAND BEHIND YOU” + +XXXIV. THE HORROR OF WAR! + +XXXV. IN THE CITY OF LIVING GODS, 30,000 BUDDHAS AND 60,000 MONKS + +XXXVI. A SON OF CRUSADERS AND PRIVATEERS + +XXXVII. THE CAMP OF MARTYRS + +XXXVIII. BEFORE THE FACE OF BUDDHA + +XXXIX. “THE MAN WITH A HEAD LIKE A SADDLE” + + + +PART IV. THE LIVING BUDDHA + + +XL. IN THE BLISSFUL GARDEN OF A THOUSAND JOYS + +XLI. THE DUST OF CENTURIES + +XLII. THE BOOKS OF MIRACLES + +XLIII. THE BIRTH OF THE LIVING BUDDHA + +XLIV. A PAGE IN THE HISTORY OF THE PRESENT LIVING BUDDHA + +XLV. THE VISION OF THE LIVING BUDDHA OF MAY 17, 1921 + + + +PART V. MYSTERY OF MYSTERIES--THE KING OF THE WORLD + + +XLVI. THE SUBTERRANEAN KINGDOM + +XLVII. THE KING OF THE WORLD BEFORE THE FACE OF GOD + +XLVIII. REALITY OR RELIGIOUS FANTASY? + +XLIX. THE PROPHECY OF THE KING OF THE WORLD IN 1890 + + +There are times, men and events about which History alone can record the +final judgments; contemporaries and individual observers must only write +what they have seen and heard. The very truth demands it. + +TITUS LIVIUS. + + + + +BEASTS, MEN AND GODS + + + + +Part I + +DRAWING LOTS WITH DEATH + + +CHAPTER I + +INTO THE FORESTS + + +In the beginning of the year 1920 I happened to be living in the +Siberian town of Krasnoyarsk, situated on the shores of the River +Yenisei, that noble stream which is cradled in the sun-bathed mountains +of Mongolia to pour its warming life into the Arctic Ocean and to whose +mouth Nansen has twice come to open the shortest road for commerce from +Europe to the heart of Asia. There in the depths of the still Siberian +winter I was suddenly caught up in the whirling storm of mad revolution +raging all over Russia, sowing in this peaceful and rich land vengeance, +hate, bloodshed and crimes that go unpunished by the law. No one could +tell the hour of his fate. The people lived from day to day and left +their homes not knowing whether they should return to them or whether +they should be dragged from the streets and thrown into the dungeons of +that travesty of courts, the Revolutionary Committee, more terrible +and more bloody than those of the Mediaeval Inquisition. We who were +strangers in this distraught land were not saved from its persecutions +and I personally lived through them. + +One morning, when I had gone out to see a friend, I suddenly received +the news that twenty Red soldiers had surrounded my house to arrest me +and that I must escape. I quickly put on one of my friend’s old hunting +suits, took some money and hurried away on foot along the back ways of +the town till I struck the open road, where I engaged a peasant, who in +four hours had driven me twenty miles from the town and set me down +in the midst of a deeply forested region. On the way I bought a rifle, +three hundred cartridges, an ax, a knife, a sheepskin overcoat, tea, +salt, dry bread and a kettle. I penetrated into the heart of the wood to +an abandoned half-burned hut. From this day I became a genuine trapper +but I never dreamed that I should follow this role as long as I did. +The next morning I went hunting and had the good fortune to kill two +heathcock. I found deer tracks in plenty and felt sure that I should not +want for food. However, my sojourn in this place was not for long. Five +days later when I returned from hunting I noticed smoke curling up out +of the chimney of my hut. I stealthily crept along closer to the cabin +and discovered two saddled horses with soldiers’ rifles slung to the +saddles. Two disarmed men were not dangerous for me with a weapon, so I +quickly rushed across the open and entered the hut. From the bench +two soldiers started up in fright. They were Bolsheviki. On their big +Astrakhan caps I made out the red stars of Bolshevism and on their +blouses the dirty red bands. We greeted each other and sat down. The +soldiers had already prepared tea and so we drank this ever welcome +hot beverage and chatted, suspiciously eyeing one another the while. +To disarm this suspicion on their part, I told them that I was a hunter +from a distant place and was living there because I found it good +country for sables. They announced to me that they were soldiers of +a detachment sent from a town into the woods to pursue all suspicious +people. + +“Do you understand, ‘Comrade,’” said one of them to me, “we are looking +for counter-revolutionists to shoot them?” + +I knew it without his explanations. All my forces were directed to +assuring them by my conduct that I was a simple peasant hunter and that +I had nothing in common with the counter-revolutionists. I was thinking +also all the time of where I should go after the departure of my +unwelcome guests. It grew dark. In the darkness their faces were even +less attractive. They took out bottles of vodka and drank and the +alcohol began to act very noticeably. They talked loudly and constantly +interrupted each other, boasting how many bourgeoisie they had killed +in Krasnoyarsk and how many Cossacks they had slid under the ice in the +river. Afterwards they began to quarrel but soon they were tired and +prepared to sleep. All of a sudden and without any warning the door of +the hut swung wide open and the steam of the heated room rolled out in +a great cloud, out of which seemed to rise like a genie, as the steam +settled, the figure of a tall, gaunt peasant impressively crowned with +the high Astrakhan cap and wrapped in the great sheepskin overcoat that +added to the massiveness of his figure. He stood with his rifle ready +to fire. Under his girdle lay the sharp ax without which the Siberian +peasant cannot exist. Eyes, quick and glimmering like those of a wild +beast, fixed themselves alternately on each of us. In a moment he took +off his cap, made the sign of the cross on his breast and asked of us: +“Who is the master here?” + +I answered him. + +“May I stop the night?” + +“Yes,” I replied, “places enough for all. Take a cup of tea. It is still +hot.” + +The stranger, running his eyes constantly over all of us and over +everything about the room, began to take off his skin coat after putting +his rifle in the corner. He was dressed in an old leather blouse with +trousers of the same material tucked in high felt boots. His face was +quite young, fine and tinged with something akin to mockery. His white, +sharp teeth glimmered as his eyes penetrated everything they rested +upon. I noticed the locks of grey in his shaggy head. Lines of +bitterness circled his mouth. They showed his life had been very stormy +and full of danger. He took a seat beside his rifle and laid his ax on +the floor below. + +“What? Is it your wife?” asked one of the drunken soldiers, pointing to +the ax. + +The tall peasant looked calmly at him from the quiet eyes under their +heavy brows and as calmly answered: + +“One meets a different folk these days and with an ax it is much safer.” + +He began to drink tea very greedily, while his eyes looked at me many +times with sharp inquiry in them and ran often round the whole cabin in +search of the answer to his doubts. Very slowly and with a guarded drawl +he answered all the questions of the soldiers between gulps of the +hot tea, then he turned his glass upside down as evidence of having +finished, placed on the top of it the small lump of sugar left and +remarked to the soldiers: + +“I am going out to look after my horse and will unsaddle your horses for +you also.” + +“All right,” exclaimed the half-sleeping young soldier, “bring in our +rifles as well.” + +The soldiers were lying on the benches and thus left for us only the +floor. The stranger soon came back, brought the rifles and set them in +the dark corner. He dropped the saddle pads on the floor, sat down on +them and began to take off his boots. The soldiers and my guest soon +were snoring but I did not sleep for thinking of what next to do. +Finally as dawn was breaking, I dozed off only to awake in the +broad daylight and find my stranger gone. I went outside the hut and +discovered him saddling a fine bay stallion. + +“Are you going away?” I asked. + +“Yes, but I want to go together with these ---- comrades,’” he +whispered, “and afterwards I shall come back.” + +I did not ask him anything further and told him only that I would wait +for him. He took off the bags that had been hanging on his saddle, put +them away out of sight in the burned corner of the cabin, looked over +the stirrups and bridle and, as he finished saddling, smiled and said: + +“I am ready. I’m going to awake my ‘comrades.’” Half an hour after the +morning drink of tea, my three guests took their leave. I remained out +of doors and was engaged in splitting wood for my stove. Suddenly, +from a distance, rifle shots rang through the woods, first one, then +a second. Afterwards all was still. From the place near the shots a +frightened covey of blackcock broke and came over me. At the top of a +high pine a jay cried out. I listened for a long time to see if anyone +was approaching my hut but everything was still. + +On the lower Yenisei it grows dark very early. I built a fire in my +stove and began to cook my soup, constantly listening for every noise +that came from beyond the cabin walls. Certainly I understood at all +times very clearly that death was ever beside me and might claim me +by means of either man, beast, cold, accident or disease. I knew that +nobody was near me to assist and that all my help was in the hands of +God, in the power of my hands and feet, in the accuracy of my aim and in +my presence of mind. However, I listened in vain. I did not notice the +return of my stranger. Like yesterday he appeared all at once on the +threshold. Through the steam I made out his laughing eyes and his fine +face. He stepped into the hut and dropped with a good deal of noise +three rifles into the corner. + +“Two horses, two rifles, two saddles, two boxes of dry bread, half a +brick of tea, a small bag of salt, fifty cartridges, two overcoats, two +pairs of boots,” laughingly he counted out. “In truth today I had a very +successful hunt.” + +In astonishment I looked at him. + +“What are you surprised at?” he laughed. “Komu nujny eti tovarischi? +Who’s got any use for these fellows? Let us have tea and go to sleep. +Tomorrow I will guide you to another safer place and then go on.” + + +CHAPTER II + +THE SECRET OF MY FELLOW TRAVELER + + +At the dawn of day we started forth, leaving my first place of refuge. +Into the bags we packed our personal estate and fastened them on one of +the saddles. + +“We must go four or five hundred versts,” very calmly announced my +fellow traveler, who called himself “Ivan,” a name that meant nothing to +my mind or heart in this land where every second man bore the same. + +“We shall travel then for a very long time,” I remarked regretfully. + +“Not more than one week, perhaps even less,” he answered. + +That night we spent in the woods under the wide spreading branches of +the fir trees. It was my first night in the forest under the open sky. +How many like this I was destined to spend in the year and a half of my +wanderings! During the day there was very sharp cold. Under the hoofs of +the horses the frozen snow crunched and the balls that formed and broke +from their hoofs rolled away over the crust with a sound like crackling +glass. The heathcock flew from the trees very idly, hares loped slowly +down the beds of summer streams. At night the wind began to sigh and +whistle as it bent the tops of the trees over our heads; while below it +was still and calm. We stopped in a deep ravine bordered by heavy trees, +where we found fallen firs, cut them into logs for the fire and, after +having boiled our tea, dined. + +Ivan dragged in two tree trunks, squared them on one side with his ax, +laid one on the other with the squared faces together and then drove in +a big wedge at the butt ends which separated them three or four inches. +Then we placed live coals in this opening and watched the fire run +rapidly the whole length of the squared faces vis-a-vis. + +“Now there will be a fire in the morning,” he announced. “This is the +‘naida’ of the gold prospectors. We prospectors wandering in the woods +summer and winter always sleep beside this ‘naida.’ Fine! You shall see +for yourself,” he continued. + +He cut fir branches and made a sloping roof out of them, resting it on +two uprights toward the naida. Above our roof of boughs and our naida +spread the branches of protecting fir. More branches were brought and +spread on the snow under the roof, on these were placed the saddle +cloths and together they made a seat for Ivan to rest on and to take off +his outer garments down to his blouse. Soon I noticed his forehead was +wet with perspiration and that he was wiping it and his neck on his +sleeves. + +“Now it is good and warm!” he exclaimed. + +In a short time I was also forced to take off my overcoat and soon lay +down to sleep without any covering at all, while through the branches +of the fir trees and our roof glimmered the cold bright stars and +just beyond the naida raged a stinging cold, from which we were cosily +defended. After this night I was no longer frightened by the cold. +Frozen during the days on horseback, I was thoroughly warmed through +by the genial naida at night and rested from my heavy overcoat, sitting +only in my blouse under the roofs of pine and fir and sipping the ever +welcome tea. + +During our daily treks Ivan related to me the stories of his wanderings +through the mountains and woods of Transbaikalia in the search for gold. +These stories were very lively, full of attractive adventure, danger and +struggle. Ivan was a type of these prospectors who have discovered in +Russia, and perhaps in other countries, the richest gold mines, while +they themselves remain beggars. He evaded telling me why he left +Transbaikalia to come to the Yenisei. I understood from his manner that +he wished to keep his own counsel and so did not press him. However, the +blanket of secrecy covering this part of his mysterious life was one day +quite fortuitously lifted a bit. We were already at the objective point +of our trip. The whole day we had traveled with difficulty through a +thick growth of willow, approaching the shore of the big right branch of +the Yenisei, the Mana. Everywhere we saw runways packed hard by the feet +of the hares living in this bush. These small white denizens of the wood +ran to and fro in front of us. Another time we saw the red tail of a fox +hiding behind a rock, watching us and the unsuspecting hares at the same +time. + +Ivan had been silent for a long while. Then he spoke up and told me that +not far from there was a small branch of the Mana, at the mouth of which +was a hut. + +“What do you say? Shall we push on there or spend the night by the +naida?” + +I suggested going to the hut, because I wanted to wash and because it +would be agreeable to spend the night under a genuine roof again. Ivan +knitted his brows but acceded. + +It was growing dark when we approached a hut surrounded by the dense +wood and wild raspberry bushes. It contained one small room with two +microscopic windows and a gigantic Russian stove. Against the building +were the remains of a shed and a cellar. We fired the stove and prepared +our modest dinner. Ivan drank from the bottle inherited from the +soldiers and in a short time was very eloquent, with brilliant eyes and +with hands that coursed frequently and rapidly through his long locks. +He began relating to me the story of one of his adventures, but suddenly +stopped and, with fear in his eyes, squinted into a dark corner. + +“Is it a rat?” he asked. + +“I did not see anything,” I replied. + +He again became silent and reflected with knitted brow. Often we were +silent through long hours and consequently I was not astonished. Ivan +leaned over near to me and began to whisper. + +“I want to tell you an old story. I had a friend in Transbaikalia. He +was a banished convict. His name was Gavronsky. Through many woods +and over many mountains we traveled in search of gold and we had an +agreement to divide all we got into even shares. But Gavronsky suddenly +went out to the ‘Taiga’ on the Yenisei and disappeared. After five years +we heard that he had found a very rich gold mine and had become a rich +man; then later that he and his wife with him had been murdered. . . .” + Ivan was still for a moment and then continued: + +“This is their old hut. Here he lived with his wife and somewhere on +this river he took out his gold. But he told nobody where. All the +peasants around here know that he had a lot of money in the bank +and that he had been selling gold to the Government. Here they were +murdered.” + +Ivan stepped to the stove, took out a flaming stick and, bending over, +lighted a spot on the floor. + +“Do you see these spots on the floor and on the wall? It is their +blood, the blood of Gavronsky. They died but they did not disclose the +whereabouts of the gold. It was taken out of a deep hole which they had +drifted into the bank of the river and was hidden in the cellar under +the shed. But Gavronsky gave nothing away. . . . AND LORD HOW I TORTURED +THEM! I burned them with fire; I bent back their fingers; I gouged out +their eyes; but Gavronsky died in silence.” + +He thought for a moment, then quickly said to me: + +“I have heard all this from the peasants.” He threw the log into the +stove and flopped down on the bench. “It’s time to sleep,” he snapped +out, and was still. + +I listened for a long time to his breathing and his whispering to +himself, as he turned from one side to the other and smoked his pipe. + +In the morning we left this scene of so much suffering and crime and on +the seventh day of our journey we came to the dense cedar wood growing +on the foothills of a long chain of mountains. + +“From here,” Ivan explained to me, “it is eighty versts to the next +peasant settlement. The people come to these woods to gather cedar nuts +but only in the autumn. Before then you will not meet anyone. Also you +will find many birds and beasts and a plentiful supply of nuts, so that +it will be possible for you to live here. Do you see this river? When +you want to find the peasants, follow along this stream and it will +guide you to them.” + +Ivan helped me build my mud hut. But it was not the genuine mud hut. It +was one formed by the tearing out of the roots of a great cedar, that +had probably fallen in some wild storm, which made for me the deep hole +as the room for my house and flanked this on one side with a wall of +mud held fast among the upturned roots. Overhanging ones formed also +the framework into which we interlaced the poles and branches to make +a roof, finished off with stones for stability and snow for warmth. +The front of the hut was ever open but was constantly protected by the +guardian naida. In that snow-covered den I spent two months like summer +without seeing any other human being and without touch with the outer +world where such important events were transpiring. In that grave under +the roots of the fallen tree I lived before the face of nature with my +trials and my anxiety about my family as my constant companions, and in +the hard struggle for my life. Ivan went off the second day, leaving for +me a bag of dry bread and a little sugar. I never saw him again. + + +CHAPTER III + +THE STRUGGLE FOR LIFE + + +Then I was alone. Around me only the wood of eternally green cedars +covered with snow, the bare bushes, the frozen river and, as far as I +could see out through the branches and the trunks of the trees, only +the great ocean of cedars and snow. Siberian taiga! How long shall I be +forced to live here? Will the Bolsheviki find me here or not? Will my +friends know where I am? What is happening to my family? These questions +were constantly as burning fires in my brain. Soon I understood why Ivan +guided me so long. We passed many secluded places on the journey, far +away from all people, where Ivan could have safely left me but he always +said that he would take me to a place where it would be easier to live. +And it was so. The charm of my lone refuge was in the cedar wood and +in the mountains covered with these forests which stretched to every +horizon. The cedar is a splendid, powerful tree with wide-spreading +branches, an eternally green tent, attracting to its shelter every +living being. Among the cedars was always effervescent life. There the +squirrels were continually kicking up a row, jumping from tree to tree; +the nut-jobbers cried shrilly; a flock of bullfinches with carmine +breasts swept through the trees like a flame; or a small army of +goldfinches broke in and filled the amphitheatre of trees with their +whistling; a hare scooted from one tree trunk to another and behind him +stole up the hardly visible shadow of a white ermine, crawling on the +snow, and I watched for a long time the black spot which I knew to be +the tip of his tail; carefully treading the hard crusted snow approached +a noble deer; at last there visited me from the top of the mountain the +king of the Siberian forest, the brown bear. All this distracted me +and carried away the black thoughts from my brain, encouraging me to +persevere. It was good for me also, though difficult, to climb to the +top of my mountain, which reached up out of the forest and from which I +could look away to the range of red on the horizon. It was the red cliff +on the farther bank of the Yenisei. There lay the country, the towns, +the enemies and the friends; and there was even the point which I +located as the place of my family. It was the reason why Ivan had guided +me here. And as the days in this solitude slipped by I began to miss +sorely this companion who, though the murderer of Gavronsky, had taken +care of me like a father, always saddling my horse for me, cutting the +wood and doing everything to make me comfortable. He had spent many +winters alone with nothing except his thoughts, face to face with +nature--I should say, before the face of God. He had tried the horrors +of solitude and had acquired facility in bearing them. I thought +sometimes, if I had to meet my end in this place, that I would spend my +last strength to drag myself to the top of the mountain to die there, +looking away over the infinite sea of mountains and forest toward the +point where my loved ones were. + +However, the same life gave me much matter for reflection and yet more +occupation for the physical side. It was a continuous struggle for +existence, hard and severe. The hardest work was the preparation of the +big logs for the naida. The fallen trunks of the trees were covered +with snow and frozen to the ground. I was forced to dig them out and +afterwards, with the help of a long stick as a lever, to move them from +their place. For facilitating this work I chose the mountain for my +supplies, where, although difficult to climb, it was easy to roll the +logs down. Soon I made a splendid discovery. I found near my den a great +quantity of larch, this beautiful yet sad forest giant, fallen during +a big storm. The trunks were covered with snow but remained attached to +their stumps, where they had broken off. When I cut into these stumps +with the ax, the head buried itself and could with difficulty be drawn +and, investigating the reason, I found them filled with pitch. Chips of +this wood needed only a spark to set them aflame and ever afterward I +always had a stock of them to light up quickly for warming my hands on +returning from the hunt or for boiling my tea. + +The greater part of my days was occupied with the hunt. I came to +understand that I must distribute my work over every day, for it +distracted me from my sad and depressing thoughts. Generally, after +my morning tea, I went into the forest to seek heathcock or blackcock. +After killing one or two I began to prepare my dinner, which never had +an extensive menu. It was constantly game soup with a handful of dried +bread and afterwards endless cups of tea, this essential beverage of the +woods. Once, during my search for birds, I heard a rustle in the dense +shrubs and, carefully peering about, I discovered the points of a deer’s +horns. I crawled along toward the spot but the watchful animal heard my +approach. With a great noise he rushed from the bush and I saw him very +clearly, after he had run about three hundred steps, stop on the slope +of the mountain. It was a splendid animal with dark grey coat, with +almost a black spine and as large as a small cow. I laid my rifle across +a branch and fired. The animal made a great leap, ran several steps and +fell. With all my strength I ran to him but he got up again and half +jumped, half dragged himself up the mountain. The second shot stopped +him. I had won a warm carpet for my den and a large stock of meat. The +horns I fastened up among the branches of my wall, where they made a +fine hat rack. + +I cannot forget one very interesting but wild picture, which was staged +for me several kilometres from my den. There was a small swamp covered +with grass and cranberries scattered through it, where the blackcock +and sand partridges usually came to feed on the berries. I approached +noiselessly behind the bushes and saw a whole flock of blackcock +scratching in the snow and picking out the berries. While I was +surveying this scene, suddenly one of the blackcock jumped up and the +rest of the frightened flock immediately flew away. To my astonishment +the first bird began going straight up in a spiral flight and afterwards +dropped directly down dead. When I approached there sprang from the +body of the slain cock a rapacious ermine that hid under the trunk of a +fallen tree. The bird’s neck was badly torn. I then understood that the +ermine had charged the cock, fastened itself on his neck and had been +carried by the bird into the air, as he sucked the blood from its +throat, and had been the cause of the heavy fall back to the earth. +Thanks to his aeronautic ability I saved one cartridge. + +So I lived fighting for the morrow and more and more poisoned by hard +and bitter thoughts. The days and weeks passed and soon I felt the +breath of warmer winds. On the open places the snow began to thaw. In +spots the little rivulets of water appeared. Another day I saw a fly +or a spider awakened after the hard winter. The spring was coming. I +realized that in spring it was impossible to go out from the forest. +Every river overflowed its banks; the swamps became impassable; all the +runways of the animals turned into beds for streams of running water. +I understood that until summer I was condemned to a continuation of my +solitude. Spring very quickly came into her rights and soon my mountain +was free from snow and was covered only with stones, the trunks of birch +and aspen trees and the high cones of ant hills; the river in places +broke its covering of ice and was coursing full with foam and bubbles. + + +CHAPTER IV + +A FISHERMAN + + +One day during the hunt, I approached the bank of the river and noticed +many very large fish with red backs, as though filled with blood. They +were swimming on the surface enjoying the rays of the sun. When the +river was entirely free from ice, these fish appeared in enormous +quantities. Soon I realized that they were working up-stream for the +spawning season in the smaller rivers. I thought to use a plundering +method of catching, forbidden by the law of all countries; but all the +lawyers and legislators should be lenient to one who lives in a den +under the roots of a fallen tree and dares to break their rational laws. + +Gathering many thin birch and aspen trees I built in the bed of the +stream a weir which the fish could not pass and soon I found them +trying to jump over it. Near the bank I left a hole in my barrier about +eighteen inches below the surface and fastened on the up-stream side a +high basket plaited from soft willow twigs, into which the fish came as +they passed the hole. Then I stood cruelly by and hit them on the head +with a strong stick. All my catch were over thirty pounds, some more +than eighty. This variety of fish is called the taimen, is of the trout +family and is the best in the Yenisei. + +After two weeks the fish had passed and my basket gave me no more +treasure, so I began anew the hunt. + + +CHAPTER V + +A DANGEROUS NEIGHBOR + + +The hunt became more and more profitable and enjoyable, as spring +animated everything. In the morning at the break of day the forest was +full of voices, strange and undiscernible to the inhabitant of the town. +There the heathcock clucked and sang his song of love, as he sat on the +top branches of the cedar and admired the grey hen scratching in the +fallen leaves below. It was very easy to approach this full-feathered +Caruso and with a shot to bring him down from his more poetic to his +more utilitarian duties. His going out was an euthanasia, for he was in +love and heard nothing. Out in the clearing the blackcocks with their +wide-spread spotted tails were fighting, while the hens strutting +near, craning and chattering, probably some gossip about their fighting +swains, watched and were delighted with them. From the distance flowed +in a stern and deep roar, yet full of tenderness and love, the mating +call of the deer; while from the crags above came down the short and +broken voice of the mountain buck. Among the bushes frolicked the hares +and often near them a red fox lay flattened to the ground watching his +chance. I never heard any wolves and they are usually not found in the +Siberian regions covered with mountains and forest. + +But there was another beast, who was my neighbor, and one of us had +to go away. One day, coming back from the hunt with a big heathcock, I +suddenly noticed among the trees a black, moving mass. I stopped and, +looking very attentively, saw a bear, digging away at an ant-hill. +Smelling me, he snorted violently, and very quickly shuffled away, +astonishing me with the speed of his clumsy gait. The following morning, +while still lying under my overcoat, I was attracted by a noise behind +my den. I peered out very carefully and discovered the bear. He stood on +his hind legs and was noisily sniffing, investigating the question as +to what living creature had adopted the custom of the bears of housing +during the winter under the trunks of fallen trees. I shouted and struck +my kettle with the ax. My early visitor made off with all his energy; +but his visit did not please me. It was very early in the spring that +this occurred and the bear should not yet have left his hibernating +place. He was the so-called “ant-eater,” an abnormal type of bear +lacking in all the etiquette of the first families of the bear clan. + +I knew that the “ant-eaters” were very irritable and audacious and +quickly I prepared myself for both the defence and the charge. My +preparations were short. I rubbed off the ends of five of my cartridges, +thus making dum-dums out of them, a sufficiently intelligible argument +for so unwelcome a guest. Putting on my coat I went to the place where +I had first met the bear and where there were many ant-hills. I made +a detour of the whole mountain, looked in all the ravines but nowhere +found my caller. Disappointed and tired, I was approaching my shelter +quite off my guard when I suddenly discovered the king of the forest +himself just coming out of my lowly dwelling and sniffing all around the +entrance to it. I shot. The bullet pierced his side. He roared with pain +and anger and stood up on his hind legs. As the second bullet broke +one of these, he squatted down but immediately, dragging the leg and +endeavoring to stand upright, moved to attack me. Only the third bullet +in his breast stopped him. He weighed about two hundred to two hundred +fifty pounds, as near as I could guess, and was very tasty. He appeared +at his best in cutlets but only a little less wonderful in the Hamburg +steaks which I rolled and roasted on hot stones, watching them swell out +into great balls that were as light as the finest souffle omelettes we +used to have at the “Medved” in Petrograd. On this welcome addition to +my larder I lived from then until the ground dried out and the stream +ran down enough so that I could travel down along the river to the +country whither Ivan had directed me. + +Ever traveling with the greatest precautions I made the journey down +along the river on foot, carrying from my winter quarters all my +household furniture and goods, wrapped up in the deerskin bag which I +formed by tying the legs together in an awkward knot; and thus laden +fording the small streams and wading through the swamps that lay across +my path. After fifty odd miles of this I came to the country called +Sifkova, where I found the cabin of a peasant named Tropoff, located +closest to the forest that came to be my natural environment. With him I +lived for a time. + +* * * * * + +Now in these unimaginable surroundings of safety and peace, summing up +the total of my experience in the Siberian taiga, I make the following +deductions. In every healthy spiritual individual of our times, +occasions of necessity resurrect the traits of primitive man, hunter and +warrior, and help him in the struggle with nature. It is the prerogative +of the man with the trained mind and spirit over the untrained, who does +not possess sufficient science and will power to carry him through. But +the price that the cultured man must pay is that for him there exists +nothing more awful than absolute solitude and the knowledge of complete +isolation from human society and the life of moral and aesthetic +culture. One step, one moment of weakness and dark madness will seize +a man and carry him to inevitable destruction. I spent awful days of +struggle with the cold and hunger but I passed more terrible days in +the struggle of the will to kill weakening destructive thoughts. The +memories of these days freeze my heart and mind and even now, as I +revive them so clearly by writing of my experiences, they throw me +back into a state of fear and apprehension. Moreover, I am compelled +to observe that the people in highly civilized states give too little +regard to the training that is useful to man in primitive conditions, in +conditions incident to the struggle against nature for existence. It is +the single normal way to develop a new generation of strong, healthy, +iron men, with at the same time sensitive souls. + +Nature destroys the weak but helps the strong, awakening in the soul +emotions which remain dormant under the urban conditions of modern life. + + +CHAPTER VI + +A RIVER IN TRAVAIL + + +My presence in the Sifkova country was not for long but I used it in +full measure. First, I sent a man in whom I had confidence and whom I +considered trustworthy to my friends in the town that I had left and +received from them linen, boots, money and a small case of first aid +materials and essential medicines, and, what was most important, a +passport in another name, since I was dead for the Bolsheviki. Secondly, +in these more or less favorable conditions I reflected upon the plan for +my future actions. Soon in Sifkova the people heard that the Bolshevik +commissar would come for the requisition of cattle for the Red Army. It +was dangerous to remain longer. I waited only until the Yenisei should +lose its massive lock of ice, which kept it sealed long after the small +rivulets had opened and the trees had taken on their spring foliage. +For one thousand roubles I engaged a fisherman who agreed to take me +fifty-five miles up the river to an abandoned gold mine as soon as the +river, which had then only opened in places, should be entirely clear +of ice. At last one morning I heard a deafening roar like a tremendous +cannonade and ran out to find the river had lifted its great bulk of ice +and then given way to break it up. I rushed on down to the bank, where I +witnessed an awe-inspiring but magnificent scene. The river had brought +down the great volume of ice that had been dislodged in the south and +was carrying it northward under the thick layer which still covered +parts of the stream until finally its weight had broken the winter dam +to the north and released the whole grand mass in one last rush for the +Arctic. The Yenisei, “Father Yenisei,” “Hero Yenisei,” is one of the +longest rivers in Asia, deep and magnificent, especially through the +middle range of its course, where it is flanked and held in canyon-like +by great towering ranges. The huge stream had brought down whole miles +of ice fields, breaking them up on the rapids and on isolated rocks, +twisting them with angry swirls, throwing up sections of the black +winter roads, carrying down the tepees built for the use of passing +caravans which in the Winter always go from Minnusinsk to Krasnoyarsk on +the frozen river. From time to time the stream stopped in its flow, the +roar began and the great fields of ice were squeezed and piled upward, +sometimes as high as thirty feet, damming up the water behind, so that +it rapidly rose and ran out over the low places, casting on the shore +great masses of ice. Then the power of the reinforced waters conquered +the towering dam of ice and carried it downward with a sound like +breaking glass. At the bends in the river and round the great rocks +developed terrifying chaos. Huge blocks of ice jammed and jostled until +some were thrown clear into the air, crashing against others already +there, or were hurled against the curving cliffs and banks, tearing +out boulders, earth and trees high up the sides. All along the low +embankments this giant of nature flung upward with a suddenness that +leaves man but a pigmy in force a great wall of ice fifteen to twenty +feet high, which the peasants call “Zaberega” and through which they +cannot get to the river without cutting out a road. One incredible feat +I saw the giant perform, when a block many feet thick and many yards +square was hurled through the air and dropped to crush saplings and +little trees more than a half hundred feet from the bank. + +Watching this glorious withdrawal of the ice, I was filled with terror +and revolt at seeing the awful spoils which the Yenisei bore away +in this annual retreat. These were the bodies of the executed +counter-revolutionaries--officers, soldiers and Cossacks of the former +army of the Superior Governor of all anti-Bolshevik Russia, Admiral +Kolchak. They were the results of the bloody work of the “Cheka” at +Minnusinsk. Hundreds of these bodies with heads and hands cut off, with +mutilated faces and bodies half burned, with broken skulls, floated and +mingled with the blocks of ice, looking for their graves; or, turning +in the furious whirlpools among the jagged blocks, they were ground and +torn to pieces into shapeless masses, which the river, nauseated with +its task, vomited out upon the islands and projecting sand bars. I +passed the whole length of the middle Yenisei and constantly came across +these putrifying and terrifying reminders of the work of the Bolsheviki. +In one place at a turn of the river I saw a great heap of horses, which +had been cast up by the ice and current, in number not less than three +hundred. A verst below there I was sickened beyond endurance by the +discovery of a grove of willows along the bank which had raked from the +polluted stream and held in their finger-like drooping branches human +bodies in all shapes and attitudes with a semblance of naturalness +which made an everlasting picture on my distraught mind. Of this pitiful +gruesome company I counted seventy. + +At last the mountain of ice passed by, followed by the muddy freshets +that carried down the trunks of fallen trees, logs and bodies, bodies, +bodies. The fisherman and his son put me and my luggage into their +dugout made from an aspen tree and poled upstream along the bank. +Poling in a swift current is very hard work. At the sharp curves we were +compelled to row, struggling against the force of the stream and even in +places hugging the cliffs and making headway only by clutching the rocks +with our hands and dragging along slowly. Sometimes it took us a long +while to do five or six metres through these rapid holes. In two days we +reached the goal of our journey. I spent several days in this gold mine, +where the watchman and his family were living. As they were short of +food, they had nothing to spare for me and consequently my rifle again +served to nourish me, as well as contributing something to my hosts. +One day there appeared here a trained agriculturalist. I did not hide +because during my winter in the woods I had raised a heavy beard, so +that probably my own mother could not have recognized me. However, our +guest was very shrewd and at once deciphered me. I did not fear him +because I saw that he was not a Bolshevik and later had confirmation of +this. We found common acquaintances and a common viewpoint on current +events. He lived close to the gold mine in a small village where he +superintended public works. We determined to escape together from +Russia. For a long time I had puzzled over this matter and now my plan +was ready. Knowing the position in Siberia and its geography, I decided +that the best way to safety was through Urianhai, the northern part of +Mongolia on the head waters of the Yenisei, then through Mongolia and +out to the Far East and the Pacific. Before the overthrow of the Kolchak +Government I had received a commission to investigate Urianhai and +Western Mongolia and then, with great accuracy, I studied all the +maps and literature I could get on this question. To accomplish this +audacious plan I had the great incentive of my own safety. + + +CHAPTER VII + +THROUGH SOVIET SIBERIA + + +After several days we started through the forest on the left bank of the +Yenisei toward the south, avoiding the villages as much as possible in +fear of leaving some trail by which we might be followed. Whenever we +did have to go into them, we had a good reception at the hands of the +peasants, who did not penetrate our disguise; and we saw that they hated +the Bolsheviki, who had destroyed many of their villages. In one place +we were told that a detachment of Red troops had been sent out from +Minnusinsk to chase the Whites. We were forced to work far back from +the shore of the Yenisei and to hide in the woods and mountains. Here we +remained nearly a fortnight, because all this time the Red soldiers were +traversing the country and capturing in the woods half-dressed unarmed +officers who were in hiding from the atrocious vengeance of the +Bolsheviki. Afterwards by accident we passed a meadow where we found the +bodies of twenty-eight officers hung to the trees, with their faces and +bodies mutilated. There we determined never to allow ourselves to come +alive into the hands of the Boisheviki. To prevent this we had our +weapons and a supply of cyanide of potassium. + +Passing across one branch of the Yenisei, once we saw a narrow, miry +pass, the entrance to which was strewn with the bodies of men and +horses. A little farther along we found a broken sleigh with rifled +boxes and papers scattered about. Near them were also torn garments and +bodies. Who were these pitiful ones? What tragedy was staged in this +wild wood? We tried to guess this enigma and we began to investigate the +documents and papers. These were official papers addressed to the Staff +of General Pepelaieff. Probably one part of the Staff during the retreat +of Kolchak’s army went through this wood, striving to hide from the +enemy approaching from all sides; but here they were caught by the Reds +and killed. Not far from here we found the body of a poor unfortunate +woman, whose condition proved clearly what had happened before relief +came through the beneficent bullet. The body lay beside a shelter of +branches, strewn with bottles and conserve tins, telling the tale of the +bantering feast that had preceded the destruction of this life. + +The further we went to the south, the more pronouncedly hospitable the +people became toward us and the more hostile to the Bolsheviki. At last +we emerged from the forests and entered the spacious vastness of the +Minnusinsk steppes, crossed by the high red mountain range called +the “Kizill-Kaiya” and dotted here and there with salt lakes. It is a +country of tombs, thousands of large and small dolmens, the tombs of the +earliest proprietors of this land: pyramids of stone ten metres high, +the marks set by Jenghiz Khan along his road of conquest and afterwards +by the cripple Tamerlane-Temur. Thousands of these dolmens and stone +pyramids stretch in endless rows to the north. In these plains the +Tartars now live. They were robbed by the Bolsheviki and therefore hated +them ardently. We openly told them that we were escaping. They gave us +food for nothing and supplied us with guides, telling us with whom we +might stop and where to hide in case of danger. + +After several days we looked down from the high bank of the Yenisei upon +the first steamer, the “Oriol,” from Krasnoyarsk to Minnusinsk, laden +with Red soldiers. Soon we came to the mouth of the river Tuba, which +we were to follow straight east to the Sayan mountains, where Urianhai +begins. We thought the stage along the Tuba and its branch, the Amyl, +the most dangerous part of our course, because the valleys of these two +rivers had a dense population which had contributed large numbers +of soldiers to the celebrated Communist Partisans, Schetinkin and +Krafcheno. + +A Tartar ferried us and our horses over to the right bank of the Yenisei +and afterwards sent us some Cossacks at daybreak who guided us to the +mouth of the Tuba, where we spent the whole day in rest, gratifying +ourselves with a feast of wild black currants and cherries. + + +CHAPTER VIII + +THREE DAYS ON THE EDGE OF A PRECIPICE + + +Armed with our false passports, we moved along up the valley of the +Tuba. Every ten or fifteen versts we came across large villages of from +one to six hundred houses, where all administration was in the hands of +Soviets and where spies scrutinized all passers-by. We could not avoid +these villages for two reasons. First, our attempts to avoid them +when we were constantly meeting the peasants in the country would have +aroused suspicion and would have caused any Soviet to arrest us and +send us to the “Cheka” in Minnusinsk, where we should have sung our +last song. Secondly, in his documents my fellow traveler was granted +permission to use the government post relays for forwarding him on his +journey. Therefore, we were forced to visit the village Soviets and +change our horses. Our own mounts we had given to the Tartar and Cossack +who helped us at the mouth of the Tuba, and the Cossack brought us in +his wagon to the first village, where we received the post horses. All +except a small minority of the peasants were against the Bolsheviki and +voluntarily assisted us. I paid them for their help by treating their +sick and my fellow traveler gave them practical advice in the management +of their agriculture. Those who helped us chiefly were the old +dissenters and the Cossacks. + +Sometimes we came across villages entirely Communistic but very soon we +learned to distinguish them. When we entered a village with our horse +bells tinkling and found the peasants who happened to be sitting in +front of their houses ready to get up with a frown and a grumble that +here were more new devils coming, we knew that this was a village +opposed to the Communists and that here we could stop in safety. But, +if the peasants approached and greeted us with pleasure, calling us +“Comrades,” we knew at once that we were among the enemy and took great +precautions. Such villages were inhabited by people who were not the +Siberian liberty-loving peasants but by emigrants from the Ukraine, +idle and drunk, living in poor dirty huts, though their village +were surrounded with the black and fertile soil of the steppes. Very +dangerous and pleasant moments we spent in the large village of Karatuz. +It is rather a town. In the year 1912 two colleges were opened here and +the population reached 15,000 people. It is the capital of the South +Yenisei Cossacks. But by now it is very difficult to recognize this +town. The peasant emigrants and Red army murdered all the Cossack +population and destroyed and burned most of the houses; and it is at +present the center of Bolshevism and Communism in the eastern part of +the Minnusinsk district. In the building of the Soviet, where we came to +exchange our horses, there was being held a meeting of the “Cheka.” We +were immediately surrounded and questioned about our documents. We were +not any too calm about the impression which might be made by our papers +and attempted to avoid this examination. My fellow traveler afterwards +often said to me: + +“It is great good fortune that among the Bolsheviki the good-for-nothing +shoemaker of yesterday is the Governor of today and scientists sweep +the streets or clean the stables of the Red cavalry. I can talk with +the Bolsheviki because they do not know the difference between +‘disinfection’ and ‘diphtheria,’ ‘anthracite’ and ‘appendicitis’ and can +talk them round in all things, even up to persuading them not to put a +bullet into me.” + +And so we talked the members of the “Cheka” round to everything that we +wanted. We presented to them a bright scheme for the future development +of their district, when we would build the roads and bridges which would +allow them to export the wood from Urianhai, iron and gold from the +Sayan Mountains, cattle and furs from Mongolia. What a triumph of +creative work for the Soviet Government! Our ode occupied about an +hour and afterwards the members of the “Cheka,” forgetting about our +documents, personally changed our horses, placed our luggage on the +wagon and wished us success. It was the last ordeal within the borders +of Russia. + +When we had crossed the valley of the river Amyl, Happiness smiled on +us. Near the ferry we met a member of the militia from Karatuz. He had +on his wagon several rifles and automatic pistols, mostly Mausers, +for outfitting an expedition through Urianhai in quest of some Cossack +officers who had been greatly troubling the Bolsheviki. We stood upon +our guard. We could very easily have met this expedition and we were +not quite assured that the soldiers would be so appreciative of our +high-sounding phrases as were the members of the “Cheka.” Carefully +questioning the militiaman, we ferreted out the route their expedition +was to take. In the next village we stayed in the same house with him. I +had to open my luggage and suddenly I noticed his admiring glance fixed +upon my bag. + +“What pleases you so much?” I asked. + +He whispered: “Trousers . . . Trousers.” + +I had received from my townsmen quite new trousers of black thick +cloth for riding. Those trousers attracted the rapt attention of the +militiaman. + +“If you have no other trousers. . . .” I remarked, reflecting upon my +plan of attack against my new friend. + +“No,” he explained with sadness, “the Soviet does not furnish trousers. +They tell me they also go without trousers. And my trousers are +absolutely worn out. Look at them.” + +With these words he threw back the corner of his overcoat and I was +astonished how he could keep himself inside these trousers, for they +had such large holes that they were more of a net than trousers, a net +through which a small shark could have slipped. + +“Sell me,” he whispered, with a question in his voice. + +“I cannot, for I need them myself,” I answered decisively. + +He reflected for a few minutes and afterward, approaching me, said: “Let +us go out doors and talk. Here it is inconvenient.” + +We went outside. “Now, what about it?” he began. “You are going into +Urianhai. There the Soviet bank-notes have no value and you will not +be able to buy anything, where there are plenty of sables, fox-skins, +ermine and gold dust to be purchased, which they very willingly exchange +for rifles and cartridges. You have each of you a rifle and I will +give you one more rifle with a hundred cartridges if you give me the +trousers.” + +“We do not need weapons. We are protected by our documents,” I answered, +as though I did not understand. + +“But no,” he interrupted, “you can change that rifle there into furs and +gold. I shall give you that rifle outright.” + +“Ah, that’s it, is it? But it’s very little for those trousers. Nowhere +in Russia can you now find trousers. All Russia goes without trousers +and for your rifle I should receive a sable and what use to me is one +skin?” + +Word by word I attained to my desire. The militia-man got my trousers +and I received a rifle with one hundred cartridges and two automatic +pistols with forty cartridges each. We were armed now so that we could +defend ourselves. Moreover, I persuaded the happy possessor of my +trousers to give us a permit to carry the weapons. Then the law and +force were both on our side. + +In a distant village we bought three horses, two for riding and one for +packing, engaged a guide, purchased dried bread, meat, salt and butter +and, after resting twenty-four hours, began our trip up the Amyl toward +the Sayan Mountains on the border of Urianhai. There we hoped not to +meet Bolsheviki, either sly or silly. In three days from the mouth of +the Tuba we passed the last Russian village near the Mongolian-Urianhai +border, three days of constant contact with a lawless population, of +continuous danger and of the ever present possibility of fortuitous +death. Only iron will power, presence of mind and dogged tenacity +brought us through all the dangers and saved us from rolling back down +our precipice of adventure, at whose foot lay so many others who +had failed to make this same climb to freedom which we had just +accomplished. Perhaps they lacked the persistence or the presence of +mind, perhaps they had not the poetic ability to sing odes about “roads, +bridges and gold mines” or perhaps they simply had no spare trousers. + + +CHAPTER IX + +TO THE SAYANS AND SAFETY + + +Dense virgin wood surrounded us. In the high, already yellow grass the +trail wound hardly noticeable in among bushes and trees just beginning +to drop their many colored leaves. It is the old, already forgotten Amyl +pass road. Twenty-five years ago it carried the provisions, machinery +and workers for the numerous, now abandoned, gold mines of the +Amyl valley. The road now wound along the wide and rapid Amyl, then +penetrated into the deep forest, guiding us round the swampy ground +filled with those dangerous Siberian quagmires, through the dense +bushes, across mountains and wide meadows. Our guide probably did not +surmise our real intention and sometimes, apprehensively looking down at +the ground, would say: + +“Three riders on horses with shoes on have passed here. Perhaps they +were soldiers.” + +His anxiety was terminated when he discovered that the tracks led off to +one side and then returned to the trail. + +“They did not proceed farther,” he remarked, slyly smiling. + +“That’s too bad,” we answered. “It would have been more lively to travel +in company.” + +But the peasant only stroked his beard and laughed. Evidently he was not +taken in by our statement. + +We passed on the way a gold mine that had been formerly planned and +equipped on splendid lines but was now abandoned and the buildings all +destroyed. The Bolsheviki had taken away the machinery, supplies and +also some parts of the buildings. Nearby stood a dark and gloomy church +with windows broken, the crucifix torn off and the tower burned, a +pitifully typical emblem of the Russia of today. The starving family of +the watchman lived at the mine in continuing danger and privation. They +told us that in this forest region were wandering about a band of Reds +who were robbing anything that remained on the property of the gold +mine, were working the pay dirt in the richest part of the mine and, +with a little gold washed, were going to drink and gamble it away in +some distant villages where the peasants were making the forbidden vodka +out of berries and potatoes and selling it for its weight in gold. A +meeting with this band meant death. After three days we crossed the +northern ridge of the Sayan chain, passed the border river Algiak and, +after this day, were abroad in the territory of Urianhai. + +This wonderful land, rich in most diverse forms of natural wealth, is +inhabited by a branch of the Mongols, which is now only sixty thousand +and which is gradually dying off, speaking a language quite different +from any of the other dialects of this folk and holding as their life +ideal the tenet of “Eternal Peace.” Urianhai long ago became the scene +of administrative attempts by Russians, Mongols and Chinese, all of whom +claimed sovereignty over the region whose unfortunate inhabitants, the +Soyots, had to pay tribute to all three of these overlords. It was due +to this that the land was not an entirely safe refuge for us. We had +heard already from our militiaman about the expedition preparing to go +into Urianhai and from the peasants we learned that the villages along +the Little Yenisei and farther south had formed Red detachments, who +were robbing and killing everyone who fell into their hands. Recently +they had killed sixty-two officers attempting to pass Urianhai into +Mongolia; robbed and killed a caravan of Chinese merchants; and killed +some German war prisoners who escaped from the Soviet paradise. On the +fourth day we reached a swampy valley where, among open forests, stood a +single Russian house. Here we took leave of our guide, who hastened away +to get back before the snows should block his road over the Sayans. The +master of the establishment agreed to guide us to the Seybi River for +ten thousand roubles in Soviet notes. Our horses were tired and we were +forced to give them a rest, so we decided to spend twenty-four hours +here. + +We were drinking tea when the daughter of our host cried: + +“The Soyots are coming!” Into the room with their rifles and pointed +hats came suddenly four of them. + +“Mende,” they grunted to us and then, without ceremony, began examining +us critically. Not a button or a seam in our entire outfit escaped their +penetrating gaze. Afterwards one of them, who appeared to be the local +“Merin” or governor, began to investigate our political views. Listening +to our criticisms of the Bolsheviki, he was evidently pleased and began +talking freely. + +“You are good people. You do not like Bolsheviki. We will help you.” + +I thanked him and presented him with the thick silk cord which I was +wearing as a girdle. Before night they left us saying that they would +return in the morning. It grew dark. We went to the meadow to look after +our exhausted horses grazing there and came back to the house. We were +gaily chatting with the hospitable host when suddenly we heard horses’ +hoofs in the court and raucous voices, followed by the immediate entry +of five Red soldiers armed with rifles and swords. Something unpleasant +and cold rolled up into my throat and my heart hammered. We knew the +Reds as our enemies. These men had the red stars on their Astrakhan caps +and red triangles on their sleeves. They were members of the detachment +that was out to look for Cossack officers. Scowling at us they took +off their overcoats and sat down. We first opened the conversation, +explaining the purpose of our journey in exploring for bridges, roads +and gold mines. From them we then learned that their commander would +arrive in a little while with seven more men and that they would take +our host at once as a guide to the Seybi River, where they thought the +Cossack officers must be hidden. Immediately I remarked that our affairs +were moving fortunately and that we must travel along together. One of +the soldiers replied that that would depend upon the “Comrade-officer.” + +During our conversation the Soyot Governor entered. Very attentively he +studied again the new arrivals and then asked: “Why did you take from +the Soyots the good horses and leave bad ones?” + +The soldiers laughed at him. + +“Remember that you are in a foreign country!” answered the Soyot, with a +threat in his voice. + +“God and the Devil!” cried one of the soldiers. + +But the Soyot very calmly took a seat at the table and accepted the cup +of tea the hostess was preparing for him. The conversation ceased. The +Soyot finished the tea, smoked his long pipe and, standing up, said: + +“If tomorrow morning the horses are not back at the owner’s, we shall +come and take them.” And with these words he turned and went out. + +I noticed an expression of apprehension on the faces of the soldiers. +Shortly one was sent out as a messenger while the others sat silent with +bowed heads. Late in the night the officer arrived with his other seven +men. As he received the report about the Soyot, he knitted his brows and +said: + +“It’s a bad mess. We must travel through the swamp where a Soyot will be +behind every mound watching us.” + +He seemed really very anxious and his trouble fortunately prevented him +from paying much attention to us. I began to calm him and promised on +the morrow to arrange this matter with the Soyots. The officer was a +coarse brute and a silly man, desiring strongly to be promoted for the +capture of the Cossack officers, and feared that the Soyot could prevent +him from reaching the Seybi. + +At daybreak we started together with the Red detachment. When we had +made about fifteen kilometers, we discovered behind the bushes two +riders. They were Soyots. On their backs were their flint rifles. + +“Wait for me!” I said to the officer. “I shall go for a parley with +them.” + +I went forward with all the speed of my horse. One of the horsemen was +the Soyot Governor, who said to me: + +“Remain behind the detachment and help us.” + +“All right,” I answered, “but let us talk a little, in order that they +may think we are parleying.” + +After a moment I shook the hand of the Soyot and returned to the +soldiers. + +“All right,” I exclaimed, “we can continue our journey. No hindrance +will come from the Soyots.” + +We moved forward and, when we were crossing a large meadow, we espied at +a long distance two Soyots riding at full gallop right up the side of a +mountain. Step by step I accomplished the necessary manoeuvre to bring +me and my fellow traveler somewhat behind the detachment. Behind +our backs remained only one soldier, very brutish in appearance and +apparently very hostile to us. I had time to whisper to my companion +only one word: “Mauser,” and saw that he very carefully unbuttoned the +saddle bag and drew out a little the handle of his pistol. + +Soon I understood why these soldiers, excellent woodsmen as they were, +would not attempt to go to the Seybi without a guide. All the country +between the Algiak and the Seybi is formed by high and narrow mountain +ridges separated by deep swampy valleys. It is a cursed and dangerous +place. At first our horses mired to the knees, lunging about and +catching their feet in the roots of bushes in the quagmires, then +falling and pinning us under their sides, breaking parts of their +saddles and bridles. Then we would go in up to the riders’ knees. My +horse went down once with his whole breast and head under the red fluid +mud and we just saved it and no more. Afterwards the officer’s horse +fell with him so that he bruised his head on a stone. My companion +injured one knee against a tree. Some of the men also fell and were +injured. The horses breathed heavily. Somewhere dimly and gloomily +a crow cawed. Later the road became worse still. The trail followed +through the same miry swamp but everywhere the road was blocked with +fallen tree trunks. The horses, jumping over the trunks, would land in +an unexpectedly deep hole and flounder. We and all the soldiers were +covered with blood and mud and were in great fear of exhausting our +mounts. For a long distance we had to get down and lead them. At last we +entered a broad meadow covered with bushes and bordered with rocks. Not +only horses but riders also began to sink to their middle in a quagmire +with apparently no bottom. The whole surface of the meadow was but a +thin layer of turf, covering a lake with black putrefying water. When +we finally learned to open our column and proceed at big intervals, we +found we could keep on this surface that undulated like rubber ice and +swayed the bushes up and down. In places the earth buckled up and broke. + +Suddenly, three shots sounded. They were hardly more than the report of +a Flobert rifle; but they were genuine shots, because the officer and +two soldiers fell to the ground. The other soldiers grabbed their rifles +and, with fear, looked about for the enemy. Four more were soon unseated +and suddenly I noticed our rearguard brute raise his rifle and aim +right at me. However, my Mauser outstrode his rifle and I was allowed to +continue my story. + +“Begin!” I cried to my friend and we took part in the shooting. Soon the +meadow began to swarm with Soyots, stripping the fallen, dividing the +spoils and recapturing their horses. In some forms of warfare it is +never safe to leave any of the enemy to renew hostilities later with +overwhelming forces. + +After an hour of very difficult road we began to ascend the mountain and +soon arrived on a high plateau covered with trees. + +“After all, Soyots are not a too peaceful people,” I remarked, +approaching the Governor. + +He looked at me very sharply and replied: + +“It was not Soyots who did the killing.” + +He was right. It was the Abakan Tartars in Soyot clothes who killed the +Bolsheviki. These Tartars were running their herds of cattle and horses +down out of Russia through Urianhai to Mongolia. They had as their +guide and negotiator a Kalmuck Lamaite. The following morning we were +approaching a small settlement of Russian colonists and noticed some +horsemen looking out from the woods. One of our young and brave Tartars +galloped off at full speed toward these men in the wood but soon wheeled +and returned with a reassuring smile. + +“All right,” he exclaimed, laughing, “keep right on.” + +We continued our travel on a good broad road along a high wooden fence +surrounding a meadow filled with a fine herd of wapiti or izubr, which +the Russian colonists breed for the horns that are so valuable in the +velvet for sale to Tibetan and Chinese medicine dealers. These horns, +when boiled and dried, are called panti and are sold to the Chinese at +very high prices. + +We were received with great fear by the settlers. + +“Thank God!” exclaimed the hostess, “we thought . . .” and she broke off, +looking at her husband. + + +CHAPTER X + +THE BATTLE ON THE SEYBI + + +Constant dangers develop one’s watchfulness and keenness of perception. +We did not take off our clothes nor unsaddle our horses, tired as +we were. I put my Mauser inside my coat and began to look about and +scrutinize the people. The first thing I discovered was the butt end of +a rifle under the pile of pillows always found on the peasants’ large +beds. Later I noticed the employees of our host constantly coming into +the room for orders from him. They did not look like simple peasants, +although they had long beards and were dressed very dirtily. They +examined me with very attentive eyes and did not leave me and my friend +alone with the host. We could not, however, make out anything. But then +the Soyot Governor came in and, noticing our strained relations, began +explaining in the Soyot language to the host all about us. + +“I beg your pardon,” the colonist said, “but you know yourself that now +for one honest man we have ten thousand murderers and robbers.” + +With this we began chatting more freely. It appeared that our host knew +that a band of Bolsheviki would attack him in the search for the band of +Cossack officers who were living in his house on and off. He had heard +also about the “total loss” of one detachment. However, it did not +entirely calm the old man to have our news, for he had heard of the +large detachment of Reds that was coming from the border of the Usinsky +District in pursuit of the Tartars who were escaping with their cattle +south to Mongolia. + +“From one minute to another we are awaiting them with fear,” said +our host to me. “My Soyot has come in and announced that the Reds are +already crossing the Seybi and the Tartars are prepared for the fight.” + +We immediately went out to look over our saddles and packs and then took +the horses and hid them in the bushes not far off. We made ready our +rifles and pistols and took posts in the enclosure to wait for our +common enemy. An hour of trying impatience passed, when one of the +workmen came running in from the wood and whispered: + +“They are crossing our swamp. . . . The fight is on.” + +In fact, like an answer to his words, came through the woods the sound +of a single rifle-shot, followed closely by the increasing rat-tat-tat +of the mingled guns. Nearer to the house the sounds gradually came. Soon +we heard the beating of the horses’ hoofs and the brutish cries of the +soldiers. In a moment three of them burst into the house, from off +the road where they were being raked now by the Tartars from both +directions, cursing violently. One of them shot at our host. He stumbled +along and fell on his knee, as his hand reached out toward the rifle +under his pillows. + +“Who are YOU?” brutally blurted out one of the soldiers, turning to us +and raising his rifle. We answered with Mausers and successfully, for +only one soldier in the rear by the door escaped, and that merely to +fall into the hands of a workman in the courtyard who strangled him. +The fight had begun. The soldiers called on their comrades for help. +The Reds were strung along in the ditch at the side of the road, three +hundred paces from the house, returning the fire of the surrounding +Tartars. Several soldiers ran to the house to help their comrades but +this time we heard the regular volley of the workmen of our host. They +fired as though in a manoeuvre calmly and accurately. Five Red soldiers +lay on the road, while the rest now kept to their ditch. Before long we +discovered that they began crouching and crawling out toward the end of +the ditch nearest the wood where they had left their horses. The sounds +of shots became more and more distant and soon we saw fifty or sixty +Tartars pursuing the Reds across the meadow. + +Two days we rested here on the Seybi. The workmen of our host, eight in +number, turned out to be officers hiding from the Bolsheviks. They asked +permission to go on with us, to which we agreed. + +When my friend and I continued our trip we had a guard of eight armed +officers and three horses with packs. We crossed a beautiful valley +between the Rivers Seybi and Ut. Everywhere we saw splendid grazing +lands with numerous herds upon them, but in two or three houses along +the road we did not find anyone living. All had hidden away in fear +after hearing the sounds of the fight with the Reds. The following day +we went up over the high chain of mountains called Daban and, traversing +a great area of burned timber where our trail lay among the fallen +trees, we began to descend into a valley hidden from us by the +intervening foothills. There behind these hills flowed the Little +Yenisei, the last large river before reaching Mongolia proper. About ten +kilometers from the river we spied a column of smoke rising up out of +the wood. Two of the officers slipped away to make an investigation. +For a long time they did not return and we, fearful lest something had +happened, moved off carefully in the direction of the smoke, all ready +for a fight if necessary. We finally came near enough to hear the voices +of many people and among them the loud laugh of one of our scouts. +In the middle of a meadow we made out a large tent with two tepees of +branches and around these a crowd of fifty or sixty men. When we broke +out of the forest all of them rushed forward with a joyful welcome +for us. It appeared that it was a large camp of Russian officers and +soldiers who, after their escape from Siberia, had lived in the houses +of the Russian colonists and rich peasants in Urianhai. + +“What are you doing here?” we asked with surprise. + +“Oh, ho, you know nothing at all about what has been going on?” replied +a fairly old man who called himself Colonel Ostrovsky. “In Urianhai an +order has been issued from the Military Commissioner to mobilize all +men over twenty-eight years of age and everywhere toward the town of +Belotzarsk are moving detachments of these Partisans. They are robbing +the colonists and peasants and killing everyone that falls into their +hands. We are hiding here from them.” + +The whole camp counted only sixteen rifles and three bombs, belonging +to a Tartar who was traveling with his Kalmuck guide to his herds in +Western Mongolia. We explained the aim of our journey and our intention +to pass through Mongolia to the nearest port on the Pacific. +The officers asked me to bring them out with us. I agreed. Our +reconnaissance proved to us that there were no Partisans near the house +of the peasant who was to ferry us over the Little Yenisei. We moved off +at once in order to pass as quickly as possible this dangerous zone of +the Yenisei and to sink ourselves into the forest beyond. It snowed but +immediately thawed. Before evening a cold north wind sprang up, bringing +with it a small blizzard. Late in the night our party reached the river. +Our colonist welcomed us and offered at once to ferry us over and swim +the horses, although there was ice still floating which had come down +from the head-waters of the stream. During this conversation there was +present one of the peasant’s workmen, red-haired and squint-eyed. He +kept moving around all the time and suddenly disappeared. Our host +noticed it and, with fear in his voice, said: + +“He has run to the village and will guide the Partisans here. We must +cross immediately.” + +Then began the most terrible night of my whole journey. We proposed +to the colonist that he take only our food and ammunition in the boat, +while we would swim our horses across, in order to save the time of +the many trips. The width of the Yenisei in this place is about three +hundred metres. The stream is very rapid and the shore breaks away +abruptly to the full depth of the stream. The night was absolutely dark +with not a star in the sky. The wind in whistling swirls drove the snow +and sleet sharply against our faces. Before us flowed the stream of +black, rapid water, carrying down thin, jagged blocks of ice, twisting +and grinding in the whirls and eddies. For a long time my horse refused +to take the plunge down the steep bank, snorted and braced himself. With +all my strength I lashed him with my whip across his neck until, with a +pitiful groan, he threw himself into the cold stream. We both went all +the way under and I hardly kept my seat in the saddle. Soon I was some +metres from the shore with my horse stretching his head and neck far +forward in his efforts and snorting and blowing incessantly. I felt the +every motion of his feet churning the water and the quivering of his +whole body under me in this trial. At last we reached the middle of the +river, where the current became exceedingly rapid and began to carry us +down with it. Out of the ominous darkness I heard the shoutings of my +companions and the dull cries of fear and suffering from the horses. I +was chest deep in the icy water. Sometimes the floating blocks struck +me; sometimes the waves broke up over my head and face. I had no time to +look about or to feel the cold. The animal wish to live took possession +of me; I became filled with the thought that, if my horse’s strength +failed in his struggle with the stream, I must perish. All my attention +was turned to his efforts and to his quivering fear. Suddenly he groaned +loudly and I noticed he was sinking. The water evidently was over his +nostrils, because the intervals of his frightened snorts through the +nostrils became longer. A big block of ice struck his head and turned +him so that he was swimming right downstream. With difficulty I reined +him around toward the shore but felt now that his force was gone. His +head several times disappeared under the swirling surface. I had no +choice. I slipped from the saddle and, holding this by my left hand, +swam with my right beside my mount, encouraging him with my shouts. For +a time he floated with lips apart and his teeth set firm. In his widely +opened eyes was indescribable fear. As soon as I was out of the saddle, +he had at once risen in the water and swam more calmly and rapidly. +At last under the hoofs of my exhausted animal I heard the stones. +One after another my companions came up on the shore. The well-trained +horses had brought all their burdens over. Much farther down our +colonist landed with the supplies. Without a moment’s loss we packed +our things on the horses and continued our journey. The wind was growing +stronger and colder. At the dawn of day the cold was intense. Our soaked +clothes froze and became hard as leather; our teeth chattered; and in +our eyes showed the red fires of fever: but we traveled on to put as +much space as we could between ourselves and the Partisans. Passing +about fifteen kilometres through the forest we emerged into an open +valley, from which we could see the opposite bank of the Yenisei. It was +about eight o’clock. Along the road on the other shore wound the black +serpent-like line of riders and wagons which we made out to be a column +of Red soldiers with their transport. We dismounted and hid in the +bushes in order to avoid attracting their attention. + +All the day with the thermometer at zero and below we continued our +journey, only at night reaching the mountains covered with larch +forests, where we made big fires, dried our clothes and warmed ourselves +thoroughly. The hungry horses did not leave the fires but stood right +behind us with drooped heads and slept. Very early in the morning +several Soyots came to our camp. + +“Ulan? (Red?)” asked one of them. + +“No! No!” exclaimed all our company. + +“Tzagan? (White?)” followed the new question. + +“Yes, yes,” said the Tartar, “all are Whites.” + +“Mende! Mende!” they grunted and, after starting their cups of tea, +began to relate very interesting and important news. It appeared that +the Red Partisans, moving from the mountains Tannu Ola, occupied with +their outposts all the border of Mongolia to stop and seize the peasants +and Soyots driving out their cattle. To pass the Tannu Ola now would be +impossible. I saw only one way--to turn sharp to the southeast, pass +the swampy valley of the Buret Hei and reach the south shore of Lake +Kosogol, which is already in the territory of Mongolia proper. It was +very unpleasant news. To the first Mongol post in Samgaltai was not more +than sixty miles from our camp, while to Kosogol by the shortest line +not less than two hundred seventy-five. The horses my friend and I were +riding, after having traveled more than six hundred miles over hard +roads and without proper food or rest, could scarcely make such an +additional distance. But, reflecting upon the situation and studying my +new fellow travelers, I determined not to attempt to pass the Tannu Ola. +They were nervous, morally weary men, badly dressed and armed and most +of them were without weapons. I knew that during a fight there is no +danger so great as that of disarmed men. They are easily caught +by panic, lose their heads and infect all the others. Therefore, I +consulted with my friends and decided to go to Kosogol. Our company +agreed to follow us. After luncheon, consisting of soup with big +lumps of meat, dry bread and tea, we moved out. About two o’clock the +mountains began to rise up before us. They were the northeast outspurs +of the Tannu Ola, behind which lay the Valley of Buret Hei. + + +CHAPTER XI + +THE BARRIER OF RED PARTISANS + + +In a valley between two sharp ridges we discovered a herd of yaks and +cattle being rapidly driven off to the north by ten mounted Soyots. +Approaching us warily they finally revealed that Noyon (Prince) of Todji +had ordered them to drive the herds along the Buret Hei into Mongolia, +apprehending the pillaging of the Red Partisans. They proceeded but +were informed by some Soyot hunters that this part of the Tannu Ola was +occupied by the Partisans from the village of Vladimirovka. Consequently +they were forced to return. We inquired from them the whereabouts of +these outposts and how many Partisans were holding the mountain pass +over into Mongolia. We sent out the Tartar and the Kalmuck for a +reconnaissance while all of us prepared for the further advance by +wrapping the feet of our horses in our shirts and by muzzling their +noses with straps and bits of rope so that they could not neigh. It +was dark when our investigators returned and reported to us that about +thirty Partisans had a camp some ten kilometers from us, occupying the +yurtas of the Soyots. At the pass were two outposts, one of two soldiers +and the other of three. From the outposts to the camp was a little over +a mile. Our trail lay between the two outposts. From the top of the +mountain one could plainly see the two posts and could shoot them all. +When we had come near to the top of this mountain, I left our party and, +taking with me my friend, the Tartar, the Kalmuck and two of the young +officers, advanced. From the mountain I saw about five hundred yards +ahead two fires. At each of the fires sat a soldier with his rifle and +the others slept. I did not want to fight with the Partisans but we +had to do away with these outposts and that without firing or we never +should get through the pass. I did not believe the Partisans could +afterwards track us because the whole trail was thickly marked with the +spoors of horses and cattle. + +“I shall take for my share these two,” whispered my friend, pointing to +the left outpost. + +The rest of us were to take care of the second post. I crept along +through the bushes behind my friend in order to help him in case of +need; but I am bound to admit that I was not at all worried about him. +He was about seven feet tall and so strong that, when a horse used to +refuse sometimes to take the bit, he would wrap his arm around its neck, +kick its forefeet out from under it and throw it so that he could easily +bridle it on the ground. When only a hundred paces remained, I stood +behind the bushes and watched. I could see very distinctly the fire and +the dozing sentinel. He sat with his rifle on his knees. His companion, +asleep beside him, did not move. Their white felt boots were plainly +visible to me. For a long time I did not remark my friend. At the fire +all was quiet. Suddenly from the other outpost floated over a few dim +shouts and all was still. Our sentinel slowly raised his head. But just +at this moment the huge body of my friend rose up and blanketed the fire +from me and in a twinkling the feet of the sentinel flashed through the +air, as my companion had seized him by the throat and swung him +clear into the bushes, where both figures disappeared. In a second he +re-appeared, flourished the rifle of the Partisan over his head and I +heard the dull blow which was followed by an absolute calm. He came back +toward me and, confusedly smiling, said: + +“It is done. God and the Devil! When I was a boy, my mother wanted to +make a priest out of me. When I grew up, I became a trained agronome in +order . . . to strangle the people and smash their skulls. Revolution is +a very stupid thing!” + +And with anger and disgust he spit and began to smoke his pipe. + +At the other outpost also all was finished. During this night we reached +the top of the Tannu Ola and descended again into a valley covered +with dense bushes and twined with a whole network of small rivers and +streams. It was the headwaters of the Buret Hei. About one o’clock we +stopped and began to feed our horses, as the grass just there was +very good. Here we thought ourselves in safety. We saw many calming +indications. On the mountains were seen the grazing herds of reindeers +and yaks and approaching Soyots confirmed our supposition. Here behind +the Tannu Ola the Soyots had not seen the Red soldiers. We presented to +these Soyots a brick of tea and saw them depart happy and sure that we +were “Tzagan,” a “good people.” + +While our horses rested and grazed on the well-preserved grass, we sat +by the fire and deliberated upon our further progress. There developed +a sharp controversy between two sections of our company, one led by a +Colonel who with four officers were so impressed by the absence of Reds +south of the Tannu Ola that they determined to work westward to Kobdo +and then on to the camp on the Emil River where the Chinese authorities +had interned six thousand of the forces of General Bakitch, which had +come over into Mongolian territory. My friend and I with sixteen of the +officers chose to carry through our old plan to strike for the shores +of Lake Kosogol and thence out to the Far East. As neither side could +persuade the other to abandon its ideas, our company was divided and the +next day at noon we took leave of one another. It turned out that our +own wing of eighteen had many fights and difficulties on the way, which +cost us the lives of six of our comrades, but that the remainder of us +came through to the goal of our journey so closely knit by the ties of +devotion which fighting and struggling for our very lives entailed +that we have ever preserved for one another the warmest feelings of +friendship. The other group under Colonel Jukoff perished. He met a big +detachment of Red cavalry and was defeated by them in two fights. Only +two officers escaped. They related to me this sad news and the details +of the fights when we met four months later in Urga. + +Our band of eighteen riders with five packhorses moved up the valley +of the Buret Hei. We floundered in the swamps, passed innumerable miry +streams, were frozen by the cold winds and were soaked through by the +snow and sleet; but we persisted indefatigably toward the south end of +Kosogol. As a guide our Tartar led us confidently over these trails well +marked by the feet of many cattle being run out of Urianhai to Mongolia. + + +CHAPTER XII + +IN THE COUNTRY OF ETERNAL PEACE + + +The inhabitants of Urianhai, the Soyots, are proud of being the genuine +Buddhists and of retaining the pure doctrine of holy Rama and the deep +wisdom of Sakkia-Mouni. They are the eternal enemies of war and of the +shedding of blood. Away back in the thirteenth century they preferred to +move out from their native land and take refuge in the north rather than +fight or become a part of the empire of the bloody conqueror Jenghiz +Khan, who wanted to add to his forces these wonderful horsemen and +skilled archers. Three times in their history they have thus trekked +northward to avoid struggle and now no one can say that on the hands +of the Soyots there has ever been seen human blood. With their love of +peace they struggled against the evils of war. Even the severe Chinese +administrators could not apply here in this country of peace the +full measure of their implacable laws. In the same manner the Soyots +conducted themselves when the Russian people, mad with blood and crime, +brought this infection into their land. They avoided persistently +meetings and encounters with the Red troops and Partisans, trekking off +with their families and cattle southward into the distant principalities +of Kemchik and Soldjak. The eastern branch of this stream of emigration +passed through the valley of the Buret Hei, where we constantly +outstrode groups of them with their cattle and herds. + +We traveled quickly along the winding trail of the Buret Hei and in +two days began to make the elevations of the mountain pass between the +valleys of the Buret Hei and Kharga. The trail was not only very +steep but was also littered with fallen larch trees and frequently +intercepted, incredible as it may seem, with swampy places where the +horses mired badly. Then again we picked our dangerous road over cobbles +and small stones that rolled away under our horses’ feet and bumped off +over the precipice nearby. Our horses fatigued easily in passing this +moraine that had been strewn by ancient glaciers along the mountain +sides. Sometimes the trail led right along the edge of the precipices +where the horses started great slides of stones and sand. I remember +one whole mountain covered with these moving sands. We had to leave our +saddles and, taking the bridles in our hands, to trot for a mile or more +over these sliding beds, sometimes sinking in up to our knees and +going down the mountain side with them toward the precipices below. One +imprudent move at times would have sent us over the brink. This destiny +met one of our horses. Belly down in the moving trap, he could not work +free to change his direction and so slipped on down with a mass of it +until he rolled over the precipice and was lost to us forever. We heard +only the crackling of breaking trees along his road to death. Then with +great difficulty we worked down to salvage the saddle and bags. Further +along we had to abandon one of our pack horses which had come all the +way from the northern border of Urianhai with us. We first unburdened +it but this did not help; no more did our shouting and threats. He only +stood with his head down and looked so exhausted that we realized he +had reached the further bourne of his land of toil. Some Soyots with us +examined him, felt of his muscles on the fore and hind legs, took his +head in their hands and moved it from side to side, examined his head +carefully after that and then said: + +“That horse will not go further. His brain is dried out.” So we had to +leave him. + +That evening we came to a beautiful change in scene when we topped a +rise and found ourselves on a broad plateau covered with larch. On it we +discovered the yurtas of some Soyot hunters, covered with bark instead +of the usual felt. Out of these ten men with rifles rushed toward us as +we approached. They informed us that the Prince of Soldjak did not +allow anyone to pass this way, as he feared the coming of murderers and +robbers into his dominions. + +“Go back to the place from which you came,” they advised us with fear in +their eyes. + +I did not answer but I stopped the beginnings of a quarrel between an +old Soyot and one of my officers. I pointed to the small stream in the +valley ahead of us and asked him its name. + +“Oyna,” replied the Soyot. “It is the border of the principality and the +passage of it is forbidden.” + +“All right,” I said, “but you will allow us to warm and rest ourselves a +little.” + +“Yes, yes!” exclaimed the hospitable Soyots, and led us into their +tepees. + +On our way there I took the opportunity to hand to the old Soyot a +cigarette and to another a box of matches. We were all walking along +together save one Soyot who limped slowly in the rear and was holding +his hand up over his nose. + +“Is he ill?” I asked. + +“Yes,” sadly answered the old Soyot. “That is my son. He has been losing +blood from the nose for two days and is now quite weak.” + +I stopped and called the young man to me. + +“Unbutton your outer coat,” I ordered, “bare your neck and chest and +turn your face up as far as you can.” I pressed the jugular vein on both +sides of his head for some minutes and said to him: + +“The blood will not flow from your nose any more. Go into your tepee and +lie down for some time.” + +The “mysterious” action of my fingers created on the Soyots a strong +impression. The old Soyot with fear and reverence whispered: + +“Ta Lama, Ta Lama! (Great Doctor).” + +In the yurta we were given tea while the old Soyot sat thinking deeply +about something. Afterwards he took counsel with his companions and +finally announced: + +“The wife of our Prince is sick in her eyes and I think the Prince will +be very glad if I lead the ‘Ta Lama’ to him. He will not punish me, +for he ordered that no ‘bad people’ should be allowed to pass; but that +should not stop the ‘good people’ from coming to us. + +“Do as you think best,” I replied rather indifferently. “As a matter of +fact, I know how to treat eye diseases but I would go back if you say +so.” + +“No, no!” the old man exclaimed with fear. “I shall guide you myself.” + +Sitting by the fire, he lighted his pipe with a flint, wiped +the mouthpiece on his sleeve and offered it to me in true native +hospitality. I was “comme il faut” and smoked. Afterwards he offered his +pipe to each one of our company and received from each a cigarette, a +little tobacco or some matches. It was the seal on our friendship. Soon +in our yurta many persons piled up around us, men, women, children and +dogs. It was impossible to move. From among them emerged a Lama with +shaved face and close cropped hair, dressed in the flowing red garment +of his caste. His clothes and his expression were very different from +the common mass of dirty Soyots with their queues and felt caps finished +off with squirrel tails on the top. The Lama was very kindly disposed +towards us but looked ever greedily at our gold rings and watches. I +decided to exploit this avidity of the Servant of Buddha. Supplying +him with tea and dried bread, I made known to him that I was in need of +horses. + +“I have a horse. Will you buy it from me?” he asked. “But I do not +accept Russian bank notes. Let us exchange something.” + +For a long time I bargained with him and at last for my gold wedding +ring, a raincoat and a leather saddle bag I received a fine Soyot +horse--to replace one of the pack animals we had lost--and a young goat. +We spent the night here and were feasted with fat mutton. In the morning +we moved off under the guidance of the old Soyot along the trail that +followed the valley of the Oyna, free from both mountains and swamps. +But we knew that the mounts of my friend and myself, together with three +others, were too worn down to make Kosogol and determined to try to buy +others in Soldjak. Soon we began to meet little groups of Soyot yurtas +with their cattle and horses round about. Finally we approached the +shifting capital of the Prince. Our guide rode on ahead for the parley +with him after assuring us that the Prince would be glad to welcome the +Ta Lama, though at the time I remarked great anxiety and fear in his +features as he spoke. Before long we emerged on to a large plain well +covered with small bushes. Down by the shore of the river we made out +big yurtas with yellow and blue flags floating over them and easily +guessed that this was the seat of government. Soon our guide returned +to us. His face was wreathed with smiles. He flourished his hands and +cried: + +“Noyon (the Prince) asks you to come! He is very glad!” + +From a warrior I was forced to change myself into a diplomat. As we +approached the yurta of the Prince, we were met by two officials, +wearing the peaked Mongol caps with peacock feathers rampants behind. +With low obeisances they begged the foreign “Noyon” to enter the yurta. +My friend the Tartar and I entered. In the rich yurta draped with +expensive silk we discovered a feeble, wizen-faced little old man with +shaven face and cropped hair, wearing also a high pointed beaver cap +with red silk apex topped off with a dark red button with the long +peacock feathers streaming out behind. On his nose were big Chinese +spectacles. He was sitting on a low divan, nervously clicking the beads +of his rosary. This was Ta Lama, Prince of Soldjak and High Priest of +the Buddhist Temple. He welcomed us very cordially and invited us to +sit down before the fire burning in the copper brazier. His surprisingly +beautiful Princess served us with tea and Chinese confections and +cakes. We smoked our pipes, though the Prince as a Lama did not indulge, +fulfilling, however, his duty as a host by raising to his lips the pipes +we offered him and handing us in return the green nephrite bottle of +snuff. Thus with the etiquette accomplished we awaited the words of the +Prince. He inquired whether our travels had been felicitous and what +were our further plans. I talked with him quite frankly and requested +his hospitality for the rest of our company and for the horses. He +agreed immediately and ordered four yurtas set up for us. + +“I hear that the foreign Noyon,” the Prince said, “is a good doctor.” + +“Yes, I know some diseases and have with me some medicines,” I answered, +“but I am not a doctor. I am a scientist in other branches.” + +But the Prince did not understand this. In his simple directness a man +who knows how to treat disease is a doctor. + +“My wife has had constant trouble for two months with her eyes,” he +announced. “Help her.” + +I asked the Princess to show me her eyes and I found the typical +conjunctivitis from the continual smoke of the yurta and the general +uncleanliness. The Tartar brought me my medicine case. I washed her eyes +with boric acid and dropped a little cocaine and a feeble solution of +sulphurate of zinc into them. + +“I beg you to cure me,” pleaded the Princess. “Do not go away until +you have cured me. We shall give you sheep, milk and flour for all +your company. I weep now very often because I had very nice eyes and my +husband used to tell me they shone like the stars and now they are red. +I cannot bear it, I cannot!” + +She very capriciously stamped her foot and, coquettishly smiling at me, +asked: + +“Do you want to cure me? Yes?” + +The character and manners of lovely woman are the same everywhere: on +bright Broadway, along the stately Thames, on the vivacious boulevards +of gay Paris and in the silk-draped yurta of the Soyot Princess behind +the larch covered Tannu Ola. + +“I shall certainly try,” assuringly answered the new oculist. + +We spent here ten days, surrounded by the kindness and friendship of the +whole family of the Prince. The eyes of the Princess, which eight years +ago had seduced the already old Prince Lama, were now recovered. She was +beside herself with joy and seldom left her looking-glass. + +The Prince gave me five fairly good horses, ten sheep and a bag of +flour, which was immediately transformed into dry bread. My friend +presented him with a Romanoff five-hundred-rouble note with a picture +of Peter the Great upon it, while I gave to him a small nugget of gold +which I had picked up in the bed of a stream. The Prince ordered one of +the Soyots to guide us to the Kosogol. The whole family of the Prince +conducted us to the monastery ten kilometres from the “capital.” We did +not visit the monastery but we stopped at the “Dugun,” a Chinese trading +establishment. The Chinese merchants looked at us in a very hostile +manner though they simultaneously offered us all sorts of goods, +thinking especially to catch us with their round bottles (lanhon) of +maygolo or sweet brandy made from aniseed. As we had neither lump silver +nor Chinese dollars, we could only look with longing at these attractive +bottles, till the Prince came to the rescue and ordered the Chinese to +put five of them in our saddle bags. + + +CHAPTER XIII + +MYSTERIES, MIRACLES AND A NEW FIGHT + + +In the evening of the same day we arrived at the Sacred Lake of Teri +Noor, a sheet of water eight kilometres across, muddy and yellow, with +low unattractive shores studded with large holes. In the middle of the +lake lay what was left of a disappearing island. On this were a few +trees and some old ruins. Our guide explained to us that two centuries +ago the lake did not exist and that a very strong Chinese fortress +stood here on the plain. A Chinese chief in command of the fortress gave +offence to an old Lama who cursed the place and prophesied that it would +all be destroyed. The very next day the water began rushing up from the +ground, destroyed the fortress and engulfed all the Chinese soldiers. +Even to this day when storms rage over the lake the waters cast up on +the shores the bones of men and horses who perished in it. This Teri +Noor increases its size every year, approaching nearer and nearer to the +mountains. Skirting the eastern shore of the lake, we began to climb a +snow-capped ridge. The road was easy at first but the guide warned us +that the most difficult bit was there ahead. We reached this point two +days later and found there a steep mountain side thickly set with forest +and covered with snow. Beyond it lay the lines of eternal snow--ridges +studded with dark rocks set in great banks of the white mantle that +gleamed bright under the clear sunshine. These were the eastern and +highest branches of the Tannu Ola system. We spent the night beneath +this wood and began the passage of it in the morning. At noon the guide +began leading us by zigzags in and out but everywhere our trail was +blocked by deep ravines, great jams of fallen trees and walls of rock +caught in their mad tobogganings from the mountain top. We struggled for +several hours, wore out our horses and, all of a sudden, turned up at +the place where we had made our last halt. It was very evident our Soyot +had lost his way; and on his face I noticed marked fear. + +“The old devils of the cursed forest will not allow us to pass,” he +whispered with trembling lips. “It is a very ominous sign. We must +return to Kharga to the Noyon.” + +But I threatened him and he took the lead again evidently without hope +or effort to find the way. Fortunately, one of our party, an Urianhai +hunter, noticed the blazes on the trees, the signs of the road which our +guide had lost. Following these, we made our way through the wood, came +into and crossed a belt of burned larch timber and beyond this dipped +again into a small live forest bordering the bottom of the mountains +crowned with the eternal snows. It grew dark so that we had to camp for +the night. The wind rose high and carried in its grasp a great white +sheet of snow that shut us off from the horizon on every side and buried +our camp deep in its folds. Our horses stood round like white ghosts, +refusing to eat or to leave the circle round our fire. The wind combed +their manes and tails. Through the niches in the mountains it roared and +whistled. From somewhere in the distance came the low rumble of a pack +of wolves, punctuated at intervals by the sharp individual barking that +a favorable gust of wind threw up into high staccato. + +As we lay by the fire, the Soyot came over to me and said: “Noyon, come +with me to the obo. I want to show you something.” + +We went there and began to ascend the mountain. At the bottom of a very +steep slope was laid up a large pile of stones and tree trunks, making +a cone of some three metres in height. These obo are the Lamaite sacred +signs set up at dangerous places, the altars to the bad demons, rulers +of these places. Passing Soyots and Mongols pay tribute to the spirits +by hanging on the branches of the trees in the obo hatyk, long streamers +of blue silk, shreds torn from the lining of their coats or simply tufts +of hair cut from their horses’ manes; or by placing on the stones lumps +of meat or cups of tea and salt. + +“Look at it,” said the Soyot. “The hatyks are torn off. The demons are +angry, they will not allow us to pass, Noyon. . . .” + +He caught my hand and with supplicating voice whispered: “Let us go +back, Noyon; let us! The demons do not wish us to pass their mountains. +For twenty years no one has dared to pass these mountains and all bold +men who have tried have perished here. The demons fell upon them with +snowstorm and cold. Look! It is beginning already. . . . Go back to our +Noyon, wait for the warmer days and then. . . .” + +I did not listen further to the Soyot but turned back to the fire, which +I could hardly see through the blinding snow. Fearing our guide might +run away, I ordered a sentry to be stationed for the night to watch him. +Later in the night I was awakened by the sentry, who said to me: “Maybe +I am mistaken, but I think I heard a rifle.” + +What could I say to it? Maybe some stragglers like ourselves were giving +a sign of their whereabouts to their lost companions, or perhaps the +sentry had mistaken for a rifle shot the sound of some falling rock +or frozen ice and snow. Soon I fell asleep again and suddenly saw in a +dream a very clear vision. Out on the plain, blanketed deep with snow, +was moving a line of riders. They were our pack horses, our Kalmuck and +the funny pied horse with the Roman nose. I saw us descending from this +snowy plateau into a fold in the mountains. Here some larch trees +were growing, close to which gurgled a small, open brook. Afterwards I +noticed a fire burning among the trees and then woke up. + +It grew light. I shook up the others and asked them to prepare quickly +so as not to lose time in getting under way. The storm was raging. The +snow blinded us and blotted out all traces of the road. The cold also +became more intense. At last we were in the saddles. The Soyot went +ahead trying to make out the trail. As we worked higher the guide less +seldom lost the way. Frequently we fell into deep holes covered with +snow; we scrambled up over slippery rocks. At last the Soyot swung his +horse round and, coming up to me, announced very positively: “I do not +want to die with you and I will not go further.” + +My first motion was the swing of my whip back over my head. I was so +close to the “Promised Land” of Mongolia that this Soyot, standing in +the way of fulfilment of my wishes, seemed to me my worst enemy. But I +lowered my flourishing hand. Into my head flashed a quite wild thought. + +“Listen,” I said. “If you move your horses, you will receive a bullet in +the back and you will perish not at the top of the mountain but at the +bottom. And now I will tell you what will happen to us. When we shall +have reached these rocks above, the wind will have ceased and the +snowstorm will have subsided. The sun will shine as we cross the snowy +plain above and afterwards we shall descend into a small valley where +there are larches growing and a stream of open running water. There we +shall light our fires and spend the night.” + +The Soyot began to tremble with fright. + +“Noyon has already passed these mountains of Darkhat Ola?” he asked in +amazement. + +“No,” I answered, “but last night I had a vision and I know that we +shall fortunately win over this ridge.” + +“I will guide you!” exclaimed the Soyot, and, whipping his horse, led +the way up the steep slope to the top of the ridge of eternal snows. + +As we were passing along the narrow edge of a precipice, the Soyot +stopped and attentively examined the trail. + +“Today many shod horses have passed here!” he cried through the roar +of the storm. “Yonder on the snow the lash of a whip has been dragged. +These are not Soyots.” + +The solution of this enigma appeared instantly. A volley rang out. One +of my companions cried out, as he caught hold of his right shoulder; one +pack horse fell dead with a bullet behind his ear. We quickly tumbled +out of our saddles, lay down behind the rocks and began to study the +situation. We were separated from a parallel spur of the mountain by a +small valley about one thousand paces across. There we made out about +thirty riders already dismounted and firing at us. I had never allowed +any fighting to be done until the initiative had been taken by the +other side. Our enemy fell upon us unawares and I ordered my company to +answer. + +“Aim at the horses!” cried Colonel Ostrovsky. Then he ordered the Tartar +and Soyot to throw our own animals. We killed six of theirs and probably +wounded others, as they got out of control. Also our rifles took toll +of any bold man who showed his head from behind his rock. We heard the +angry shouting and maledictions of Red soldiers who shot up our position +more and more animatedly. + +Suddenly I saw our Soyot kick up three of the horses and spring into the +saddle of one with the others in leash behind. Behind him sprang up the +Tartar and the Kalmuck. I had already drawn my rifle on the Soyot but, +as soon as I saw the Tartar and Kalmuck on their lovely horses behind +him, I dropped my gun and knew all was well. The Reds let off a volley +at the trio but they made good their escape behind the rocks and +disappeared. The firing continued more and more lively and I did not +know what to do. From our side we shot rarely, saving our cartridges. +Watching carefully the enemy, I noticed two black points on the snow +high above the Reds. They slowly approached our antagonists and finally +were hidden from view behind some sharp hillocks. When they emerged from +these, they were right on the edge of some overhanging rocks at the foot +of which the Reds lay concealed from us. By this time I had no doubt +that these were the heads of two men. Suddenly these men rose up and +I watched them flourish and throw something that was followed by two +deafening roars which re-echoed across the mountain valley. Immediately +a third explosion was followed by wild shouts and disorderly firing +among the Reds. Some of the horses rolled down the slope into the snow +below and the soldiers, chased by our shots, made off as fast as they +could down into the valley out of which we had come. + +Afterward the Tartar told me the Soyot had proposed to guide them around +behind the Reds to fall upon their rear with the bombs. When I had bound +up the wounded shoulder of the officer and we had taken the pack off the +killed animal, we continued our journey. Our position was complicated. +We had no doubt that the Red detachment came up from Mongolia. +Therefore, were there Red troops in Mongolia? What was their strength? +Where might we meet them? Consequently, Mongolia was no more the +Promised Land? Very sad thoughts took possession of us. + +But Nature pleased us. The wind gradually fell. The storm ceased. The +sun more and more frequently broke through the scudding clouds. We were +traveling upon a high, snow-covered plateau, where in one place the wind +blew it clean and in another piled it high with drifts which caught our +horses and held them so that they could hardly extricate themselves at +times. We had to dismount and wade through the white piles up to our +waists and often a man or horse was down and had to be helped to his +feet. At last the descent began and at sunset we stopped in the small +larch grove, spent the night at the fire among the trees and drank the +tea boiled in the water carried from the open mountain brook. In various +places we came across the tracks of our recent antagonists. + +Everything, even Nature herself and the angry demons of Darkhat Ola, had +helped us: but we were not gay, because again before us lay the dread +uncertainty that threatened us with new and possibly destructive +dangers. + + +CHAPTER XIV + +THE RIVER OF THE DEVIL + + +Ulan Taiga with Darkhat Ola lay behind us. We went forward very rapidly +because the Mongol plains began here, free from the impediments of +mountains. Everywhere splendid grazing lands stretched away. In places +there were groves of larch. We crossed some very rapid streams but they +were not deep and they had hard beds. After two days of travel over +the Darkhat plain we began meeting Soyots driving their cattle rapidly +toward the northwest into Orgarkha Ola. They communicated to us very +unpleasant news. + +The Bolsheviki from the Irkutsk district had crossed the Mongolian +border, captured the Russian colony at Khathyl on the southern shore +of Lake Kosogol and turned, off south toward Muren Kure, a Russian +settlement beside a big Lamaite monastery sixty miles south of Kosogol. +The Mongols told us there were no Russian troops between Khathyl and +Muren Kure, so we decided to pass between these two points to reach Van +Kure farther to the east. We took leave of our Soyot guide and, after +having sent three scouts in advance, moved forward. From the mountains +around the Kosogol we admired the splendid view of this broad Alpine +lake. It was set like a sapphire in the old gold of the surrounding +hills, chased with lovely bits of rich dark forestry. At night we +approached Khathyl with great precaution and stopped on the shore of the +river that flows from Kosogol, the Yaga or Egingol. We found a Mongol +who agreed to transport us to the other bank of the frozen stream and to +lead us by a safe road between Khathyl and Muren Kure. Everywhere along +the shore of the river were found large obo and small shrines to the +demons of the stream. + +“Why are there so many obo?” we asked the Mongol. + +“It is the River of the Devil, dangerous and crafty,” replied the +Mongol. “Two days ago a train of carts went through the ice and three of +them with five soldiers were lost.” + +We started to cross. The surface of the river resembled a thick piece +of looking-glass, being clear and without snow. Our horses walked very +carefully but some fell and floundered before they could regain their +feet. We were leading them by the bridle. With bowed heads and trembling +all over they kept their frightened eyes ever on the ice at their feet. +I looked down and understood their fear. Through the cover of one foot +of transparent ice one could clearly see the bottom of the river. Under +the lighting of the moon all the stones, the holes and even some of the +grasses were distinctly visible, even though the depth was ten metres +and more. The Yaga rushed under the ice with a furious speed, swirling +and marking its course with long bands of foam and bubbles. Suddenly I +jumped and stopped as though fastened to the spot. Along the surface of +the river ran the boom of a cannon, followed by a second and a third. + +“Quicker, quicker!” cried our Mongol, waving us forward with his hand. + +Another cannon boom and a crack ran right close to us. The horses +swung back on their haunches in protest, reared and fell, many of them +striking their heads severely on the ice. In a second it opened up two +feet wide, so that I could follow its jagged course along the surface. +Immediately up out of the opening the water spread over the ice with a +rush. + +“Hurry, hurry!” shouted the guide. + +With great difficulty we forced our horses to jump over this cleavage +and to continue on further. They trembled and disobeyed and only the +strong lash forced them to forget this panic of fear and go on. + +When we were safe on the farther bank and well into the woods, our +Mongol guide recounted to us how the river at times opens in this +mysterious way and leaves great areas of clear water. All the men and +animals on the river at such times must perish. The furious current of +cold water will always carry them down under the ice. At other times a +crack has been known to pass right under a horse and, where he fell in +with his front feet in the attempt to get back to the other side, the +crack has closed up and ground his legs or feet right off. + +The valley of Kosogol is the crater of an extinct volcano. Its outlines +may be followed from the high west shore of the lake. However, the +Plutonic force still acts and, asserting the glory of the Devil, forces +the Mongols to build obo and offer sacrifices at his shrines. We spent +all the night and all the next day hurrying away eastward to avoid a +meeting with the Reds and seeking good pasturage for our horses. At +about nine o’clock in the evening a fire shone out of the distance. My +friend and I made toward it with the feeling that it was surely a Mongol +yurta beside which we could camp in safety. We traveled over a mile +before making out distinctly the lines of a group of yurtas. But nobody +came out to meet us and, what astonished us more, we were not surrounded +by the angry black Mongolian dogs with fiery eyes. Still, from the +distance we had seen the fire and so there must be someone there. We +dismounted from our horses and approached on foot. From out of the yurta +rushed two Russian soldiers, one of whom shot at me with his pistol but +missed me and wounded my horse in the back through the saddle. I brought +him to earth with my Mauser and the other was killed by the butt end of +my friend’s rifle. We examined the bodies and found in their pockets +the papers of soldiers of the Second Squadron of the Communist Interior +Defence. Here we spent the night. The owners of the yurtas had evidently +run away, for the Red soldiers had collected and packed in sacks the +property of the Mongols. Probably they were just planning to leave, as +they were fully dressed. We acquired two horses, which we found in the +bushes, two rifles and two automatic pistols with cartridges. In the +saddle bags we also found tea, tobacco, matches and cartridges--all of +these valuable supplies to help us keep further hold on our lives. + +Two days later we were approaching the shore of the River Uri when +we met two Russian riders, who were the Cossacks of a certain Ataman +Sutunin, acting against the Bolsheviki in the valley of the River +Selenga. They were riding to carry a message from Sutunin to +Kaigorodoff, chief of the Anti-Bolsheviki in the Altai region. They +informed us that along the whole Russian-Mongolian border the Bolshevik +troops were scattered; also that Communist agitators had penetrated to +Kiakhta, Ulankom and Kobdo and had persuaded the Chinese authorities +to surrender to the Soviet authorities all the refugees from Russia. +We knew that in the neighborhood of Urga and Van Kure engagements were +taking place between the Chinese troops and the detachments of the +Anti-Bolshevik Russian General Baron Ungern Sternberg and Colonel +Kazagrandi, who were fighting for the independence of Outer Mongolia. +Baron Ungern had now been twice defeated, so that the Chinese were +carrying on high-handed in Urga, suspecting all foreigners of having +relations with the Russian General. + +We realized that the whole situation was sharply reversed. The route to +the Pacific was closed. Reflecting very carefully over the problem, +I decided that we had but one possible exit left. We must avoid all +Mongolian cities with Chinese administration, cross Mongolia from north +to south, traverse the desert in the southern part of the Principality +of Jassaktu Khan, enter the Gobi in the western part of Inner Mongolia, +strike as rapidly as possible through sixty miles of Chinese territory +in the Province of Kansu and penetrate into Tibet. Here I hoped to +search out one of the English Consuls and with his help to reach some +English port in India. I understood thoroughly all the difficulties +incident to such an enterprise but I had no other choice. It only +remained to make this last foolish attempt or to perish without doubt +at the hands of the Boisheviki or languish in a Chinese prison. When I +announced my plan to my companions, without in any way hiding from them +all its dangers and quixotism, all of them answered very quickly and +shortly: “Lead us! We will follow.” + +One circumstance was distinctly in our favor. We did not fear hunger, +for we had some supplies of tea, tobacco and matches and a surplus of +horses, saddles, rifles, overcoats and boots, which were an excellent +currency for exchange. So then we began to initiate the plan of the new +expedition. We should start to the south, leaving the town of Uliassutai +on our right and taking the direction of Zaganluk, then pass through the +waste lands of the district of Balir of Jassaktu Khan, cross the Naron +Khuhu Gobi and strike for the mountains of Boro. Here we should be able +to take a long rest to recuperate the strength of our horses and of +ourselves. The second section of our journey would be the passage +through the western part of Inner Mongolia, through the Little Gobi, +through the lands of the Torguts, over the Khara Mountains, across +Kansu, where our road must be chosen to the west of the Chinese town of +Suchow. From there we should have to enter the Dominion of Kuku Nor and +then work on southward to the head waters of the Yangtze River. Beyond +this I had but a hazy notion, which however I was able to verify from a +map of Asia in the possession of one of the officers, to the effect that +the mountain chains to the west of the sources of the Yangtze separated +that river system from the basin of the Brahmaputra in Tibet Proper, +where I expected to be able to find English assistance. + + +CHAPTER XV + +THE MARCH OF GHOSTS + + +In no other way can I describe the journey from the River Ero to the +border of Tibet. About eleven hundred miles through the snowy steppes, +over mountains and across deserts we traveled in forty-eight days. +We hid from the people as we journeyed, made short stops in the most +desolate places, fed for whole weeks on nothing but raw, frozen meat in +order to avoid attracting attention by the smoke of fires. Whenever we +needed to purchase a sheep or a steer for our supply department, we sent +out only two unarmed men who represented to the natives that they were +the workmen of some Russian colonists. We even feared to shoot, although +we met a great herd of antelopes numbering as many as five thousand +head. Behind Balir in the lands of the Lama Jassaktu Khan, who had +inherited his throne as a result of the poisoning of his brother at Urga +by order of the Living Buddha, we met wandering Russian Tartars who had +driven their herds all the way from Altai and Abakan. They welcomed us +very cordially, gave us oxen and thirty-six bricks of tea. Also they +saved us from inevitable destruction, for they told us that at this +season it was utterly impossible for horses to make the trip across the +Gobi, where there was no grass at all. We must buy camels by exchanging +for them our horses and some other of our bartering supplies. One of the +Tartars the next day brought to their camp a rich Mongol with whom he +drove the bargain for this trade. He gave us nineteen camels and took +all our horses, one rifle, one pistol and the best Cossack saddle. He +advised us by all means to visit the sacred Monastery of Narabanchi, the +last Lamaite monastery on the road from Mongolia to Tibet. He told us +that the Holy Hutuktu, “the Incarnate Buddha,” would be greatly offended +if we did not visit the monastery and his famous “Shrine of Blessings,” + where all travelers going to Tibet always offered prayers. Our Kalmuck +Lamaite supported the Mongol in this. I decided to go there with the +Kalmuck. The Tartars gave me some big silk hatyk as presents and loaned +us four splendid horses. Although the monastery was fifty-five miles +distant, by nine o’clock in the evening I entered the yurta of this holy +Hutuktu. + +He was a middle-aged, clean shaven, spare little man, laboring under the +name of Jelyb Djamsrap Hutuktu. He received us very cordially and was +greatly pleased with the presentation of the hatyk and with my +knowledge of the Mongol etiquette in which my Tartar had been long and +persistently instructing me. He listened to me most attentively and gave +valuable advice about the road, presenting me then with a ring which has +since opened for me the doors of all Lamaite monasteries. The name of +this Hutuktu is highly esteemed not only in all Mongolia but in Tibet +and in the Lamaite world of China. We spent the night in his splendid +yurta and on the following morning visited the shrines where they were +conducting very solemn services with the music of gongs, tom-toms and +whistling. The Lamas with their deep voices were intoning the prayers +while the lesser priests answered with their antiphonies. The sacred +phrase: “Om! Mani padme Hung!” was endlessly repeated. + +The Hutuktu wished us success, presented us with a large yellow hatyk +and accompanied us to the monastery gate. When we were in our saddles he +said: + +“Remember that you are always welcome guests here. Life is very +complicated and anything may happen. Perhaps you will be forced in +future to re-visit distant Mongolia and then do not miss Narabanchi +Kure.” + +That night we returned to the Tartars and the next day continued our +journey. As I was very tired, the slow, easy motion of the camel was +welcome and restful to me. All the day I dozed off at intervals to +sleep. It turned out to be very disastrous for me; for, when my camel +was going up the steep bank of a river, in one of my naps I fell off +and hit my head on a stone, lost consciousness and woke up to find +my overcoat covered with blood. My friends surrounded me with their +frightened faces. They bandaged my head and we started off again. I only +learned long afterwards from a doctor who examined me that I had cracked +my skull as the price of my siesta. + +We crossed the eastern ranges of the Altai and the Karlik Tag, which are +the most oriental sentinels the great Tian Shan system throws out into +the regions of the Gobi; and then traversed from the north to the south +the entire width of the Khuhu Gobi. Intense cold ruled all this time and +fortunately the frozen sands gave us better speed. Before passing the +Khara range, we exchanged our rocking-chair steeds for horses, a deal in +which the Torguts skinned us badly like the true “old clothes men” they +are. + +Skirting around these mountains we entered Kansu. It was a dangerous +move, for the Chinese were arresting all refugees and I feared for my +Russian fellow-travelers. During the days we hid in the ravines, the +forests and bushes, making forced marches at night. Four days we thus +used in this passage of Kansu. The few Chinese peasants we did encounter +were peaceful appearing and most hospitable. A marked sympathetic +interest surrounded the Kalmuck, who could speak a bit of Chinese, +and my box of medicines. Everywhere we found many ill people, chiefly +afflicted with eye troubles, rheumatism and skin diseases. + +As we were approaching Nan Shan, the northeast branch of the Altyn Tag +(which is in turn the east branch of the Pamir and Karakhorum system), +we overhauled a large caravan of Chinese merchants going to Tibet +and joined them. For three days we were winding through the endless +ravine-like valleys of these mountains and ascending the high passes. +But we noticed that the Chinese knew how to pick the easiest routes +for caravans over all these difficult places. In a state of +semi-consciousness I made this whole journey toward the large group of +swampy lakes, feeding the Koko Nor and a whole network of large rivers. +From fatigue and constant nervous strain, probably helped by the blow +on my head, I began suffering from sharp attacks of chills and fever, +burning up at times and then chattering so with my teeth that I +frightened my horse who several times threw me from the saddle. I raved, +cried out at times and even wept. I called my family and instructed them +how they must come to me. I remember as though through a dream how I was +taken from the horse by my companions, laid on the ground, supplied with +Chinese brandy and, when I recovered a little, how they said to me: + +“The Chinese merchants are heading for the west and we must travel +south.” + +“No! To the north,” I replied very sharply. + +“But no, to the south,” my companions assured me. + +“God and the Devil!” I angrily ejaculated, “we have just swum the Little +Yenisei and Algyak is to the north!” + +“We are in Tibet,” remonstrated my companions. “We must reach the +Brahmaputra.” + +Brahmaputra. . . . Brahmaputra. . . . This word revolved in my fiery +brain, made a terrible noise and commotion. Suddenly I remembered +everything and opened my eyes. I hardly moved my lips and soon I +again lost consciousness. My companions brought me to the monastery of +Sharkhe, where the Lama doctor quickly brought me round with a solution +of fatil or Chinese ginseng. In discussing our plans he expressed grave +doubt as to whether we would get through Tibet but he did not wish to +explain to me the reason for his doubts. + + +CHAPTER XVI + +IN MYSTERIOUS TIBET + + +A fairly broad road led out from Sharkhe through the mountains and on +the fifth day of our two weeks’ march to the south from the monastery +we emerged into the great bowl of the mountains in whose center lay the +large lake of Koko Nor. If Finland deserves the ordinary title of the +“Land of Ten Thousand Lakes,” the dominion of Koko Nor may certainly +with justice be called the “Country of a Million Lakes.” We skirted +this lake on the west between it and Doulan Kitt, zigzagging between the +numerous swamps, lakes and small rivers, deep and miry. The water was +not here covered with ice and only on the tops of the mountains did we +feel the cold winds sharply. We rarely met the natives of the country +and only with greatest difficulty did our Kalmuck learn the course of +the road from the occasional shepherds we passed. From the eastern shore +of the Lake of Tassoun we worked round to a monastery on the further +side, where we stopped for a short rest. Besides ourselves there was +also another group of guests in the holy place. These were Tibetans. +Their behavior was very impertinent and they refused to speak with us. +They were all armed, chiefly with the Russian military rifles and were +draped with crossed bandoliers of cartridges with two or three pistols +stowed beneath belts with more cartridges sticking out. They examined +us very sharply and we readily realized that they were estimating our +martial strength. After they had left on that same day I ordered our +Kalmuck to inquire from the High Priest of the temple exactly who they +were. For a long time the monk gave evasive answers but when I showed +him the ring of Hutuktu Narabanchi and presented him with a large yellow +hatyk, he became more communicative. + +“Those are bad people,” he explained. “Have a care of them.” + +However, he was not willing to give their names, explaining his refusal +by citing the Law of Buddhist lands against pronouncing the name of +one’s father, teacher or chief. Afterwards I found out that in North +Tibet there exists the same custom as in North China. Here and there +bands of hunghutze wander about. They appear at the headquarters of the +leading trading firms and at the monasteries, claim tribute and after +their collections become the protectors of the district. Probably this +Tibetan monastery had in this band just such protectors. + +When we continued our trip, we frequently noticed single horsemen far +away or on the horizon, apparently studying our movements with care. All +our attempts to approach them and enter into conversation with them were +entirely unsuccessful. On their speedy little horses they disappeared +like shadows. As we reached the steep and difficult Pass on the Hamshan +and were preparing to spend the night there, suddenly far up on a ridge +above us appeared about forty horsemen with entirely white mounts and +without formal introduction or warning spattered us with a hail of +bullets. Two of our officers fell with a cry. One had been instantly +killed while the other lived some few minutes. I did not allow my men +to shoot but instead I raised a white flag and started forward with +the Kalmuck for a parley. At first they fired two shots at us but then +ceased firing and sent down a group of riders from the ridge toward +us. We began the parley. The Tibetans explained that Hamshan is a holy +mountain and that here one must not spend the night, advising us to +proceed farther where we could consider ourselves in safety. They +inquired from us whence we came and whither we were going, stated in +answer to our information about the purpose of our journey that they +knew the Bolsheviki and considered them the liberators of the people of +Asia from the yoke of the white race. I certainly did not want to begin +a political quarrel with them and so turned back to our companions. +Riding down the slope toward our camp, I waited momentarily for a shot +in the back but the Tibetan hunghutze did not shoot. + +We moved forward, leaving among the stones the bodies of two of our +companions as sad tribute to the difficulties and dangers of our +journey. We rode all night, with our exhausted horses constantly +stopping and some lying down under us, but we forced them ever onward. +At last, when the sun was at its zenith, we finally halted. Without +unsaddling our horses, we gave them an opportunity to lie down for a +little rest. Before us lay a broad, swampy plain, where was evidently +the sources of the river Ma-chu. Not far beyond lay the Lake of Aroung +Nor. We made our fire of cattle dung and began boiling water for our +tea. Again without any warning the bullets came raining in from all +sides. Immediately we took cover behind convenient rocks and waited +developments. The firing became faster and closer, the raiders appeared +on the whole circle round us and the bullets came ever in increasing +numbers. We had fallen into a trap and had no hope but to perish. We +realized this clearly. I tried anew to begin the parley; but when I +stood up with my white flag, the answer was only a thicker rain of +bullets and unfortunately one of these, ricocheting off a rock, struck +me in the left leg and lodged there. At the same moment another one of +our company was killed. We had no other choice and were forced to begin +fighting. The struggle continued for about two hours. Besides myself +three others received slight wounds. We resisted as long as we could. +The hunghutze approached and our situation became desperate. + +“There’s no choice,” said one of my associates, a very expert Colonel. +“We must mount and ride for it . . . anywhere.” + +“Anywhere. . . .” It was a terrible word! We consulted for but an +instant. It was apparent that with this band of cut-throats behind us +the farther we went into Tibet, the less chance we had of saving our +lives. + +We decided to return to Mongolia. But how? That we did not know. And +thus we began our retreat. Firing all the time, we trotted our horses +as fast as we could toward the north. One after another three of my +companions fell. There lay my Tartar with a bullet through his neck. +After him two young and fine stalwart officers were carried from their +saddles with cries of death, while their scared horses broke out across +the plain in wild fear, perfect pictures of our distraught selves. This +emboldened the Tibetans, who became more and more audacious. A bullet +struck the buckle on the ankle strap of my right foot and carried it, +with a piece of leather and cloth, into my leg just above the ankle. +My old and much tried friend, the agronome, cried out as he grasped his +shoulder and then I saw him wiping and bandaging as best as he could his +bleeding forehead. A second afterward our Kalmuck was hit twice right +through the palm of the same hand, so that it was entirely shattered. +Just at this moment fifteen of the hunghutze rushed against us in a +charge. + +“Shoot at them with volley fire!” commanded our Colonel. + +Six robber bodies lay on the turf, while two others of the gang were +unhorsed and ran scampering as fast as they could after their retreating +fellows. Several minutes later the fire of our antagonists ceased and +they raised a white flag. Two riders came forward toward us. In the +parley it developed that their chief had been wounded through the chest +and they came to ask us to “render first aid.” At once I saw a ray +of hope. I took my box of medicines and my groaning, cursing, wounded +Kalmuck to interpret for me. + +“Give that devil some cyanide of potassium,” urged my companions. + +But I devised another scheme. + +We were led to the wounded chief. There he lay on the saddle cloths +among the rocks, represented to us to be a Tibetan but I at once +recognized him from his cast of countenance to be a Sart or Turcoman, +probably from the southern part of Turkestan. He looked at me with +a begging and frightened gaze. Examining him, I found the bullet had +passed through his chest from left to right, that he had lost much blood +and was very weak. Conscientiously I did all that I could for him. In +the first place I tried on my own tongue all the medicines to be used on +him, even the iodoform, in order to demonstrate that there was no +poison among them. I cauterized the wound with iodine, sprinkled it with +iodoform and applied the bandages. I ordered that the wounded man be not +touched nor moved and that he be left right where he lay. Then I taught +a Tibetan how the dressing must be changed and left with him medicated +cotton, bandages and a little iodoform. To the patient, in whom the +fever was already developing, I gave a big dose of aspirin and left +several tablets of quinine with them. Afterwards, addressing myself to +the bystanders through my Kalmuck, I said very solemnly: + +“The wound is very dangerous but I gave to your Chief very strong +medicine and hope that he will recover. One condition, however, +is necessary: the bad demons which have rushed to his side for his +unwarranted attack upon us innocent travelers will instantly kill him, +if another shot is let off against us. You must not even keep a single +cartridge in your rifles.” + +With these words I ordered the Kalmuck to empty his rifle and I, at +the same time, took all the cartridges out of my Mauser. The Tibetans +instantly and very servilely followed my example. + +“Remember that I told you: ‘Eleven days and eleven nights do not move +from this place and do not charge your rifles.’ Otherwise the demon of +death will snatch off your Chief and will pursue you!”--and with these +words I solemnly drew forth and raised above their heads the ring of +Hutuktu Narabanchi. + +I returned to my companions and calmed them. I told them we were safe +against further attack from the robbers and that we must only guess the +way to reach Mongolia. Our horses were so exhausted and thin that on +their bones we could have hung our overcoats. We spent two days here, +during which time I frequently visited my patient. It also gave us +opportunity to bandage our own fortunately light wounds and to secure +a little rest; though unfortunately I had nothing but a jackknife +with which to dig the bullet out of my left calf and the shoemaker’s +accessories from my right ankle. Inquiring from the brigands about the +caravan roads, we soon made our way out to one of the main routes and +had the good fortune to meet there the caravan of the young Mongol +Prince Pounzig, who was on a holy mission carrying a message from +the Living Buddha in Urga to the Dalai Lama in Lhasa. He helped us to +purchase horses, camels and food. + +With all our arms and supplies spent in barter during the journey for +the purchase of transport and food, we returned stripped and broken to +the Narabanchi Monastery, where we were welcomed by the Hutuktu. + +“I knew you would come back,” said he. “The divinations revealed it all +to me.” + +With six of our little band left behind us in Tibet to pay the eternal +toll of our dash for the south we returned but twelve to the Monastery +and waited there two weeks to re-adjust ourselves and learn how events +would again set us afloat on this turbulent sea to steer for any port +that Destiny might indicate. The officers enlisted in the detachment +which was then being formed in Mongolia to fight against the destroyers +of their native land, the Bolsheviki. My original companion and I +prepared to continue our journey over Mongolian plains with whatever +further adventures and dangers might come in the struggle to escape to a +place of safety. + +And now, with the scenes of that trying march so vividly recalled, I +would dedicate these chapters to my gigantic, old and ruggedly tried +friend, the agronome, to my Russian fellow-travelers, and especially, to +the sacred memory of those of our companions whose bodies lie cradled +in the sleep among the mountains of Tibet--Colonel Ostrovsky, Captains +Zuboff and Turoff, Lieutenant Pisarjevsky, Cossack Vernigora and +Tartar Mahomed Spirin. Also here I express my deep thanks for help and +friendship to the Prince of Soldjak, Hereditary Noyon Ta Lama and to +the Kampo Gelong of Narabanchi Monastery, the honorable Jelyb Djamsrap +Hutuktu. + + + + +Part II + +THE LAND OF DEMONS + + +CHAPTER XVII + +MYSTERIOUS MONGOLIA + + +In the heart of Asia lies the enormous, mysterious and rich country of +Mongolia. From somewhere on the snowy slopes of the Tian Shan and from +the hot sands of Western Zungaria to the timbered ridges of the Sayan +and to the Great Wall of China it stretches over a huge portion of +Central Asia. The cradle of peoples, histories and legends; the native +land of bloody conquerors, who have left here their capitals covered +by the sand of the Gobi, their mysterious rings and their ancient nomad +laws; the states of monks and evil devils, the country of wandering +tribes administered by the descendants of Jenghiz Khan and Kublai +Khan--Khans and Princes of the Junior lines: that is Mongolia. + +Mysterious country of the cults of Rama, Sakkia-Mouni, Djonkapa and +Paspa, cults guarded by the very person of the living Buddha--Buddha +incarnated in the third dignitary of the Lamaite religion--Bogdo Gheghen +in Ta Kure or Urga; the land of mysterious doctors, prophets, sorcerers, +fortune-tellers and witches; the land of the sign of the swastika; the +land which has not forgotten the thoughts of the long deceased great +potentates of Asia and of half of Europe: that is Mongolia. + +The land of nude mountains, of plains burned by the sun and killed by +the cold, of ill cattle and ill people; the nest of pests, anthrax +and smallpox; the land of boiling hot springs and of mountain passes +inhabited by demons; of sacred lakes swarming with fish; of wolves, rare +species of deer and mountain goats, marmots in millions, wild horses, +wild donkeys and wild camels that have never known the bridle, ferocious +dogs and rapacious birds of prey which devour the dead bodies cast out +on the plains by the people: that is Mongolia. + +The land whose disappearing primitive people gaze upon the bones of +their forefathers whitening in the sands and dust of their plains; where +are dying out the people who formerly conquered China, Siam, Northern +India and Russia and broke their chests against the iron lances of +the Polish knights, defending then all the Christian world against the +invasion of wild and wandering Asia: that is Mongolia. + +The land swelling with natural riches, producing nothing, in need of +everything, destitute and suffering from the world’s cataclysm: that is +Mongolia. + +In this land, by order of Fate, after my unsuccessful attempt to reach +the Indian Ocean through Tibet, I spent half a year in the struggle to +live and to escape. My old and faithful friend and I were compelled, +willy-nilly, to participate in the exceedingly important and dangerous +events transpiring in Mongolia in the year of grace 1921. Thanks to +this, I came to know the calm, good and honest Mongolian people; I +read their souls, saw their sufferings and hopes; I witnessed the whole +horror of their oppression and fear before the face of Mystery, there +where Mystery pervades all life. I watched the rivers during the severe +cold break with a rumbling roar their chains of ice; saw lakes cast up +on their shores the bones of human beings; heard unknown wild voices +in the mountain ravines; made out the fires over miry swamps of the +will-o’-the-wisps; witnessed burning lakes; gazed upward to mountains +whose peaks could not be scaled; came across great balls of writhing +snakes in the ditches in winter; met with streams which are eternally +frozen, rocks like petrified caravans of camels, horsemen and carts; and +over all saw the barren mountains whose folds looked like the mantle of +Satan, which the glow of the evening sun drenched with blood. + +“Look up there!” cried an old shepherd, pointing to the slope of the +cursed Zagastai. “That is no mountain. It is HE who lies in his red +mantle and awaits the day when he will rise again to begin the fight +with the good spirits.” + +And as he spoke I recalled the mystic picture of the noted painter +Vroubel. The same nude mountains with the violet and purple robes of +Satan, whose face is half covered by an approaching grey cloud. Mongolia +is a terrible land of mystery and demons. Therefore it is no wonder that +here every violation of the ancient order of life of the wandering nomad +tribes is transformed into streams of red blood and horror, ministering +to the demonic pleasure of Satan couched on the bare mountains and robed +in the grey cloak of dejection and sadness, or in the purple mantle of +war and vengeance. + +After returning from the district of Koko Nor to Mongolia and resting a +few days at the Narabanchi Monastery, we went to live in Uliassutai, the +capital of Western Outer Mongolia. It is the last purely Mongolian town +to the west. In Mongolia there are but three purely Mongolian towns, +Urga, Uliassutai and Ulankom. The fourth town, Kobdo, has an essentially +Chinese character, being the center of Chinese administration in this +district inhabited by the wandering tribes only nominally recognizing +the influence of either Peking or Urga. In Uliassutai and Ulankom, +besides the unlawful Chinese commissioners and troops, there were +stationed Mongolian governors or “Saits,” appointed by the decree of the +Living Buddha. + +When we arrived in that town, we were at once in the sea of political +passions. The Mongols were protesting in great agitation against the +Chinese policy in their country; the Chinese raged and demanded from the +Mongolians the payment of taxes for the full period since the autonomy +of Mongolia had been forcibly extracted from Peking; Russian colonists +who had years before settled near the town and in the vicinity of the +great monasteries or among the wandering tribes had separated into +factions and were fighting against one another; from Urga came the +news of the struggle for the maintenance of the independence of Outer +Mongolia, led by the Russian General, Baron Ungern von Sternberg; +Russian officers and refugees congregated in detachments, against which +the Chinese authorities protested but which the Mongols welcomed; the +Bolsheviki, worried by the formation of White detachments in Mongolia, +sent their troops to the borders of Mongolia; from Irkutsk and Chita +to Uliassutai and Urga envoys were running from the Bolsheviki to the +Chinese commissioners with various proposals of all kinds; the Chinese +authorities in Mongolia were gradually entering into secret relations +with the Bolsheviki and in Kiakhta and Ulankom delivered to them the +Russian refugees, thus violating recognized international law; in +Urga the Bolsheviki set up a Russian communistic municipality; Russian +Consuls were inactive; Red troops in the region of Kosogol and the +valley of the Selenga had encounters with Anti-Bolshevik officers; the +Chinese authorities established garrisons in the Mongolian towns +and sent punitive expeditions into the country; and, to complete the +confusion, the Chinese troops carried out house-to-house searches, +during which they plundered and stole. + +Into what an atmosphere we had fallen after our hard and dangerous trip +along the Yenisei, through Urianhai, Mongolia, the lands of the Turguts, +Kansu and Koko Nor! + +“Do you know,” said my old friend to me, “I prefer strangling Partisans +and fighting with the hunghutze to listening to news and more anxious +news!” + +He was right; for the worst of it was that in this bustle and whirl of +facts, rumours and gossip the Reds could approach troubled Uliassutai +and take everyone with their bare hands. We should very willingly have +left this town of uncertainties but we had no place to go. In the north +were the hostile Partisans and Red troops; to the south we had already +lost our companions and not a little of our own blood; to the west raged +the Chinese administrators and detachments; and to the east a war had +broken out, the news of which, in spite of the attempts of the Chinese +authorities at secrecy, had filtered through and had testified to +the seriousness of the situation in this part of Outer Mongolia. +Consequently we had no choice but to remain in Uliassutai. Here also +were living several Polish soldiers who had escaped from the prison +camps in Russia, two Polish families and two American firms, all in +the same plight as ourselves. We joined together and made our own +intelligence department, very carefully watching the evolution of +events. We succeeded in forming good connections with the Chinese +commissioner and with the Mongolian Sait, which greatly helped us in our +orientation. + +What was behind all these events in Mongolia? The very clever Mongol +Sait of Uliassutai gave me the following explanation. + +“According to the agreements between Mongolia, China and Russia of +October 21, 1912, of October 23, 1913, and of June 7, 1915, Outer +Mongolia was accorded independence and the Moral Head of our ‘Yellow +Faith,’ His Holiness the Living Buddha, became the Suzerain of the +Mongolian people of Khalkha or Outer Mongolia with the title of ‘Bogdo +Djebtsung Damba Hutuktu Khan.’ While Russia was still strong and +carefully watched her policy in Asia, the Government of Peking kept the +treaty; but, when, at the beginning of the war with Germany, Russia was +compelled to withdraw her troops from Siberia, Peking began to claim the +return of its lost rights in Mongolia. It was because of this that the +first two treaties of 1912 and 1913 were supplemented by the convention +of 1915. However, in 1916, when all the forces of Russia were +pre-occupied in the unsuccessful war and afterwards when the first +Russian revolution broke out in February, 1917, overthrowing the +Romanoff Dynasty, the Chinese Government openly retook Mongolia. They +changed all the Mongolian ministers and Saits, replacing them with +individuals friendly to China; arrested many Mongolian autonomists and +sent them to prison in Peking; set up their administration in Urga and +other Mongol towns; actually removed His Holiness Bogdo Khan from the +affairs of administration; made him only a machine for signing Chinese +decrees; and at last introduced into Mongolia their troops. From that +moment there developed an energetic flow of Chinese merchants and +coolies into Mongolia. The Chinese began to demand the payment of taxes +and dues from 1912. The Mongolian population were rapidly stripped of +their wealth and now in the vicinities of our towns and monasteries you +can see whole settlements of beggar Mongols living in dugouts. All our +Mongol arsenals and treasuries were requisitioned. All monasteries +were forced to pay taxes; all Mongols working for the liberty of their +country were persecuted; through bribery with Chinese silver, orders and +titles the Chinese secured a following among the poorer Mongol Princes. +It is easy to understand how the governing class, His Holiness, Khans, +Princes, and high Lamas, as well as the ruined and oppressed people, +remembering that the Mongol rulers had once held Peking and China in +their hands and under their reign had given her the first place in +Asia, were definitely hostile to the Chinese administrators acting thus. +Insurrection was, however, impossible. We had no arms. All our leaders +were under surveillance and every movement by them toward an armed +resistance would have ended in the same prison at Peking where eighty +of our Nobles, Princes and Lamas died from hunger and torture after a +previous struggle for the liberty of Mongolia. Some abnormally strong +shock was necessary to drive the people into action. This was given by +the Chinese administrators, General Cheng Yi and General Chu Chi-hsiang. +They announced that His Holiness Bogdo Khan was under arrest in his +own palace, and they recalled to his attention the former decree of +the Peking Government--held by the Mongols to be unwarranted and +illegal--that His Holiness was the last Living Buddha. This was enough. +Immediately secret relations were made between the people and their +Living God, and plans were at once elaborated for the liberation of His +Holiness and for the struggle for liberty and freedom of our people. We +were helped by the great Prince of the Buriats, Djam Bolon, who began +parleys with General Ungern, then engaged in fighting the Bolsheviki +in Transbaikalia, and invited him to enter Mongolia and help in the war +against the Chinese. Then our struggle for liberty began.” + +Thus the Sait of Uliassutai explained the situation to me. Afterwards +I heard that Baron Ungern, who had agreed to fight for the liberty +of Mongolia, directed that the mobilization of the Mongolians in the +northern districts be forwarded at once and promised to enter Mongolia +with his own small detachment, moving along the River Kerulen. +Afterwards he took up relations with the other Russian detachment of +Colonel Kazagrandi and, together with the mobilized Mongolian riders, +began the attack on Urga. Twice he was defeated but on the third of +February, 1921, he succeeded in capturing the town and replaced the +Living Buddha on the throne of the Khans. + +At the end of March, however, these events were still unknown in +Uliassutai. We knew neither of the fall of Urga nor of the destruction +of the Chinese army of nearly 15,000 in the battles of Maimachen on the +shore of the Tola and on the roads between Urga and Ude. The Chinese +carefully concealed the truth by preventing anybody from passing +westward from Urga. However, rumours existed and troubled all. The +atmosphere became more and more tense, while the relations between the +Chinese on the one side and the Mongolians and Russians on the other +became more and more strained. At this time the Chinese Commissioner +in Uliassutai was Wang Tsao-tsun and his advisor, Fu Hsiang, both very +young and inexperienced men. The Chinese authorities had dismissed the +Uliassutai Sait, the prominent Mongolian patriot, Prince Chultun +Beyle, and had appointed a Lama Prince friendly to China, the former +Vice-Minister of War in Urga. Oppression increased. The searching of +Russian officers’ and colonists’ houses and quarters commenced, open +relations with the Bolsheviki followed and arrest and beatings became +common. The Russian officers formed a secret detachment of sixty men +so that they could defend themselves. However, in this detachment +disagreements soon sprang up between Lieutenant-Colonel M. M. Michailoff +and some of his officers. It was evident that in the decisive moment the +detachment must separate into factions. + +We foreigners in council decided to make a thorough reconnaissance in +order to know whether there was danger of Red troops arriving. My old +companion and I agreed to do this scouting. Prince Chultun Beyle gave +us a very good guide--an old Mongol named Tzeren, who spoke and read +Russian perfectly. He was a very interesting personage, holding the +position of interpreter with the Mongolian authorities and sometimes +with the Chinese Commissioner. Shortly before he had been sent as +a special envoy to Peking with very important despatches and this +incomparable horseman had made the journey between Uliassutai and +Peking, that is 1,800 miles, in nine days, incredible as it may seem. He +prepared himself for the journey by binding all his abdomen and chest, +legs, arms and neck with strong cotton bandages to protect himself from +the wracks and strains of such a period in the saddle. In his cap he +bore three eagle feathers as a token that he had received orders to fly +like a bird. Armed with a special document called a tzara, which gave +him the right to receive at all post stations the best horses, one +to ride and one fully saddled to lead as a change, together with two +oulatchen or guards to accompany him and bring back the horses from the +next station or ourton, he made the distance of from fifteen to thirty +miles between stations at full gallop, stopping only long enough to have +the horses and guards changed before he was off again. Ahead of him rode +one oulatchen with the best horses to enable him to announce and prepare +in advance the complement of steeds at the next station. Each oulatchen +had three horses in all, so that he could swing from one that had given +out and release him to graze until his return to pick him up and lead or +ride him back home. At every third ourton, without leaving his saddle, +he received a cup of hot green tea with salt and continued his race +southward. After seventeen or eighteen hours of such riding he stopped +at the ourton for the night or what was left of it, devoured a leg of +boiled mutton and slept. Thus he ate once a day and five times a day had +tea; and so he traveled for nine days! + +With this servant we moved out one cold winter morning in the direction +of Kobdo, just over three hundred miles, because from there we had +received the disquieting rumours that the Red troops had entered +Ulankom and that the Chinese authorities had handed over to them all the +Europeans in the town. We crossed the River Dzaphin on the ice. It is a +terrible stream. Its bed is full of quicksands, which in summer suck +in numbers of camels, horses and men. We entered a long, winding valley +among the mountains covered with deep snow and here and there with +groves of the black wood of the larch. About halfway to Kobdo we came +across the yurta of a shepherd on the shore of the small Lake of Baga +Nor, where evening and a strong wind whirling gusts of snow in our faces +easily persuaded us to stop. By the yurta stood a splendid bay horse +with a saddle richly ornamerited with silver and coral. As we turned +in from the road, two Mongols left the yurta very hastily; one of them +jumped into the saddle and quickly disappeared in the plain behind the +snowy hillocks. We clearly made out the flashing folds of his yellow +robe under the great outer coat and saw his large knife sheathed in a +green leather scabbard and handled with horn and ivory. The other man +was the host of the yurta, the shepherd of a local prince, Novontziran. +He gave signs of great pleasure at seeing us and receiving us in his +yurta. + +“Who was the rider on the bay horse?” we asked. + +He dropped his eyes and was silent. + +“Tell us,” we insisted. “If you do not wish to speak his name, it means +that you are dealing with a bad character.” + +“No! No!” he remonstrated, flourishing his hands. “He is a good, great +man; but the law does not permit me to speak his name.” + +We at once understood that the man was either the chief of the shepherd +or some high Lama. Consequently we did not further insist and began +making our sleeping arrangements. Our host set three legs of mutton to +boil for us, skillfully cutting out the bones with his heavy knife. We +chatted and learned that no one had seen Red troops around this region +but in Kobdo and in Ulankom the Chinese soldiers were oppressing the +population, and were beating to death with the bamboo Mongol men who +were defending their women against the ravages of these Chinese troops. +Some of the Mongols had retreated to the mountains to join detachments +under the command of Kaigordoff, an Altai Tartar officer who was +supplying them with weapons. + + +CHAPTER XVIII + +THE MYSTERIOUS LAMA AVENGER + + +We rested soundly in the yurta after the two days of travel which had +brought us one hundred seventy miles through the snow and sharp cold. +Round the evening meal of juicy mutton we were talking freely and +carelessly when suddenly we heard a low, hoarse voice: + +“Sayn--Good evening!” + +We turned around from the brazier to the door and saw a medium height, +very heavy set Mongol in deerskin overcoat and cap with side flaps and +the long, wide tying strings of the same material. Under his girdle +lay the same large knife in the green sheath which we had seen on the +departing horseman. + +“Amoursayn,” we answered. + +He quickly untied his girdle and laid aside his overcoat. He stood +before us in a wonderful gown of silk, yellow as beaten gold and girt +with a brilliant blue sash. His cleanly shaven face, short hair, red +coral rosary on the left hand and his yellow garment proved clearly that +before us stood some high Lama Priest,--with a big Colt under his blue +sash! + +I turned to my host and Tzeren and read in their faces fear and +veneration. The stranger came over to the brazier and sat down. + +“Let’s speak Russian,” he said and took a bit of meat. + +The conversation began. The stranger began to find fault with the +Government of the Living Buddha in Urga. + +“There they liberate Mongolia, capture Urga, defeat the Chinese army and +here in the west they give us no news of it. We are without action here +while the Chinese kill our people and steal from them. I think that +Bogdo Khan might send us envoys. How is it the Chinese can send their +envoys from Urga and Kiakhta to Kobdo, asking for assistance, and the +Mongol Government cannot do it? Why?” + +“Will the Chinese send help to Urga?” I asked. + +Our guest laughed hoarsely and said: “I caught all the envoys, took away +their letters and then sent them back . . . into the ground.” + +He laughed again and glanced around peculiarly with his blazing eyes. +Only then did I notice that his cheekbones and eyes had lines strange to +the Mongols of Central Asia. He looked more like a Tartar or a Kirghiz. +We were silent and smoked our pipes. + +“How soon will the detachment of Chahars leave Uliassutai?” he asked. + +We answered that we had not heard about them. Our guest explained +that from Inner Mongolia the Chinese authorities had sent out a strong +detachment, mobilized from among the most warlike tribe of Chahars, +which wander about the region just outside the Great Wall. Its chief was +a notorious hunghutze leader promoted by the Chinese Government to the +rank of captain on promising that he would bring under subjugation to +the Chinese authorities all the tribes of the districts of Kobdo and +Urianhai. When he learned whither we were going and for what purpose, +he said he could give us the most accurate news and relieve us from the +necessity of going farther. + +“Besides that, it is very dangerous,” he said, “because Kobdo will be +massacred and burned. I know this positively.” + +When he heard of our unsuccessful attempt to pass through Tibet, he +became attentive and very sympathetic in his bearing toward us and, with +evident feeling of regret, expressed himself strongly: + +“Only I could have helped you in this enterprise, but not the Narabanchi +Hutuktu. With my laissez-passer you could have gone anywhere in Tibet. I +am Tushegoun Lama.” + +Tushegoun Lama! How many extraordinary tales I had heard about him. +He is a Russian Kalmuck, who because of his propaganda work for the +independence of the Kalmuck people made the acquaintance of many Russian +prisons under the Czar and, for the same cause, added to his list under +the Bolsheviki. He escaped to Mongolia and at once attained to great +influence among the Mongols. It was no wonder, for he was a close friend +and pupil of the Dalai Lama in Potala (Lhasa), was the most learned +among the Lamites, a famous thaumaturgist and doctor. He occupied an +almost independent position in his relationship with the Living Buddha +and achieved to the leadership of all the old wandering tribes of +Western Mongolia and Zungaria, even extending his political domination +over the Mongolian tribes of Turkestan. His influence was irresistible, +based as it was on his great control of mysterious science, as he +expressed it; but I was also told that it has its foundation largely +in the panicky fear which he could produce in the Mongols. Everyone who +disobeyed his orders perished. Such an one never knew the day or the +hour when, in his yurta or beside his galloping horse on the plains, the +strange and powerful friend of the Dalai Lama would appear. The stroke +of a knife, a bullet or strong fingers strangling the neck like a vise +accomplished the justice of the plans of this miracle worker. + +Without the walls of the yurta the wind whistled and roared and drove +the frozen snow sharply against the stretched felt. Through the roar of +the wind came the sound of many voices in mingled shouting, wailing +and laughter. I felt that in such surroundings it were not difficult to +dumbfound a wandering nomad with miracles, because Nature herself had +prepared the setting for it. This thought had scarcely time to flash +through my mind before Tushegoun Lama suddenly raised his head, looked +sharply at me and said: + +“There is very much unknown in Nature and the skill of using the unknown +produces the miracle; but the power is given to few. I want to prove it +to you and you may tell me afterwards whether you have seen it before or +not.” + +He stood up, pushed back the sleeves of his yellow garment, seized his +knife and strode across to the shepherd. + +“Michik, stand up!” he ordered. + +When the shepherd had risen, the Lama quickly unbuttoned his coat +and bared the man’s chest. I could not yet understand what was his +intention, when suddenly the Tushegoun with all his force struck his +knife into the chest of the shepherd. The Mongol fell all covered with +blood, a splash of which I noticed on the yellow silk of the Lama’s +coat. + +“What have you done?” I exclaimed. + +“Sh! Be still,” he whispered turning to me his now quite blanched face. + +With a few strokes of the knife he opened the chest of the Mongol and +I saw the man’s lungs softly breathing and the distinct palpitations of +the heart. The Lama touched these organs with his fingers but no more +blood appeared to flow and the face of the shepherd was quite calm. +He was lying with his eyes closed and appeared to be in deep and quiet +sleep. As the Lama began to open his abdomen, I shut my eyes in fear and +horror; and, when I opened them a little while later, I was still more +dumbfounded at seeing the shepherd with his coat still open and his +breast normal, quietly sleeping on his side and Tushegoun Lama sitting +peacefully by the brazier, smoking his pipe and looking into the fire in +deep thought. + +“It is wonderful!” I confessed. “I have never seen anything like it!” + +“About what are you speaking?” asked the Kalmuck. + +“About your demonstration or ‘miracle,’ as you call it,” I answered. + +“I never said anything like that,” refuted the Kalmuck, with coldness in +his voice. + +“Did you see it?” I asked of my companion. + +“What?” he queried in a dozing voice. + +I realized that I had become the victim of the hypnotic power of +Tushegoun Lama; but I preferred this to seeing an innocent Mongolian +die, for I had not believed that Tushegoun Lama, after slashing open the +bodies of his victims, could repair them again so readily. + +The following day we took leave of our hosts. We decided to return, +inasmuch as our mission was accomplished; and Tushegoun Lama explained +to us that he would “move through space.” He wandered over all Mongolia, +lived both in the single, simple yurta of the shepherd and hunter and in +the splendid tents of the princes and tribal chiefs, surrounded by deep +veneration and panic-fear, enticing and cementing to him rich and poor +alike with his miracles and prophecies. When bidding us adieu, the +Kalmuck sorcerer slyly smiled and said: + +“Do not give any information about me to the Chinese authorities.” + +Afterwards he added: “What happened to you yesterday evening was +a futile demonstration. You Europeans will not recognize that we +dark-minded nomads possess the powers of mysterious science. If you +could only see the miracles and power of the Most Holy Tashi Lama, when +at his command the lamps and candles before the ancient statue of Buddha +light themselves and when the ikons of the gods begin to speak and +prophesy! But there exists a more powerful and more holy man. . .” + +“Is it the King of the World in Agharti?” I interrupted. + +He stared and glanced at me in amazement. + +“Have you heard about him?” he asked, as his brows knit in thought. + +After a few seconds he raised his narrow eyes and said: “Only one man +knows his holy name; only one man now living was ever in Agharti. That +is I. This is the reason why the Most Holy Dalai Lama has honored me and +why the Living Buddha in Urga fears me. But in vain, for I shall never +sit on the Holy Throne of the highest priest in Lhasa nor reach that +which has come down from Jenghiz Khan to the Head of our yellow Faith. I +am no monk. I am a warrior and avenger.” + +He jumped smartly into the saddle, whipped his horse and whirled away, +flinging out as he left the common Mongolian phrase of adieu: “Sayn! +Sayn-bayna!” + +On the way back Tzeren related to us the hundreds of legends surrounding +Tushegoun Lama. One tale especially remained in my mind. It was in 1911 +or 1912 when the Mongols by armed force tried to attain their liberty in +a struggle with the Chinese. The general Chinese headquarters in Western +Mongolia was Kobdo, where they had about ten thousand soldiers under the +command of their best officers. The command to capture Kobdo was sent +to Hun Baldon, a simple shepherd who had distinguished himself in fights +with the Chinese and received from the Living Buddha the title of Prince +of Hun. Ferocious, absolutely without fear and possessing gigantic +strength, Baldon had several times led to the attack his poorly armed +Mongols but each time had been forced to retreat after losing many of +his men under the machine-gun fire. Unexpectedly Tushegoun Lama arrived. +He collected all the soldiers and then said to them: + +“You must not fear death and must not retreat. You are fighting and +dying for Mongolia, for which the gods have appointed a great destiny. +See what the fate of Mongolia will be!” + +He made a great sweeping gesture with his hand and all the soldiers saw +the country round about set with rich yurtas and pastures covered +with great herds of horses and cattle. On the plains appeared numerous +horsemen on richly saddled steeds. The women were gowned in the finest +of silk with massive silver rings in their ears and precious ornaments +in their elaborate head dresses. Chinese merchants led an endless +caravan of merchandise up to distinguished looking Mongol Saits, +surrounded by the gaily dressed tzirik or soldiers and proudly +negotiating with the merchants for their wares. + +Shortly the vision disappeared and Tushegoun began to speak. + +“Do not fear death! It is a release from our labor on earth and the path +to the state of constant blessings. Look to the East! Do you see your +brothers and friends who have fallen in battle?” + +“We see, we see!” the Mongol warriors exclaimed in astonishment, as they +all looked upon a great group of dwellings which might have been yurtas +or the arches of temples flushed with a warm and kindly light. Red and +yellow silk were interwoven in bright bands that covered the walls and +floor, everywhere the gilding on pillars and walls gleamed brightly; +on the great red altar burned the thin sacrificial candles in gold +candelabra, beside the massive silver vessels filled with milk and nuts; +on soft pillows about the floor sat the Mongols who had fallen in the +previous attack on Kobdo. Before them stood low, lacquered tables laden +with many dishes of steaming, succulent flesh of the lamb and the kid, +with high jugs of wine and tea, with plates of borsuk, a kind of sweet, +rich cakes, with aromatic zatouran covered with sheep’s fat, with bricks +of dried cheese, with dates, raisins and nuts. These fallen soldiers +smoked golden pipes and chatted gaily. + +This vision in turn also disappeared and before the gazing Mongols stood +only the mysterious Kalmuck with his hand upraised. + +“To battle and return not without victory! I am with you in the fight.” + +The attack began. The Mongols fought furiously, perished by the hundreds +but not before they had rushed into the heart of Kobdo. Then was +re-enacted the long forgotten picture of Tartar hordes destroying +European towns. Hun Baldon ordered carried over him a triangle of lances +with brilliant red streamers, a sign that he gave up the town to the +soldiers for three days. Murder and pillage began. All the Chinese met +their death there. The town was burned and the walls of the fortress +destroyed. Afterwards Hun Baldon came to Uliassutai and also destroyed +the Chinese fortress there. The ruins of it still stand with the broken +embattlements and towers, the useless gates and the remnants of the +burned official quarters and soldiers’ barracks. + + +CHAPTER XIX + +WILD CHAHARS + + +After our return to Uliassutai we heard that disquieting news had been +received by the Mongol Sait from Muren Kure. The letter stated that Red +Troops were pressing Colonel Kazagrandi very hard in the region of Lake +Kosogol. The Sait feared the advance of the Red troops southward to +Uliassutai. Both the American firms liquidated their affairs and all +our friends were prepared for a quick exit, though they hesitated at +the thought of leaving the town, as they were afraid of meeting the +detachment of Chahars sent from the east. We decided to await the +arrival of this detachment, as their coming could change the whole +course of events. In a few days they came, two hundred warlike Chahar +brigands under the command of a former Chinese hunghutze. He was a tall, +skinny man with hands that reached almost to his knees, a face blackened +by wind and sun and mutilated with two long scars down over his forehead +and cheek, the making of one of which had also closed one of his +hawklike eyes, topped off with a shaggy coonskin cap--such was the +commander of the detachment of Chahars. A personage very dark and stern, +with whom a night meeting on a lonely street could not be considered a +pleasure by any bent of the imagination. + +The detachment made camp within the destroyed fortress, near to the +single Chinese building that had not been razed and which was now +serving as headquarters for the Chinese Commissioner. On the very day of +their arrival the Chahars pillaged a Chinese dugun or trading house not +half a mile from the fortress and also offended the wife of the Chinese +Commissioner by calling her a “traitor.” The Chahars, like the Mongols, +were quite right in their stand, because the Chinese Commissioner Wang +Tsao-tsun had on his arrival in Uliassutai followed the Chinese custom +of demanding a Mongolian wife. The servile new Sait had given orders +that a beautiful and suitable Mongolian girl be found for him. One was +so run down and placed in his yamen, together with her big wrestling +Mongol brother who was to be a guard for the Commissioner but who +developed into the nurse for the little white Pekingese pug which the +official presented to his new wife. + +Burglaries, squabbles and drunken orgies of the Chahars followed, so +that Wang Tsoa-tsun exerted all his efforts to hurry the detachment +westward to Kobdo and farther into Urianhai. + +One cold morning the inhabitants of Uliassutai rose to witness a very +stern picture. Along the main street of the town the detachment was +passing. They were riding on small, shaggy ponies, three abreast; were +dressed in warm blue coats with sheepskin overcoats outside and crowned +with the regulation coonskin caps; armed from head to foot. They rode +with wild shouts and cheers, very greedily eyeing the Chinese shops and +the houses of the Russian colonists. At their head rode the one-eyed +hunghutze chief with three horsemen behind him in white overcoats, +who carried waving banners and blew what may have been meant for music +through great conch shells. One of the Chahars could not resist and so +jumped out of his saddle and made for a Chinese shop along the street. +Immediately the anxious cries of the Chinese merchants came from the +shop. The hunghutze swung round, noticed the horse at the door of the +shop and realized what was happening. Immediately he reined his horse +and made for the spot. With his raucous voice he called the Chahar out. +As he came, he struck him full in the face with his whip and with all +his strength. Blood flowed from the slashed cheek. But the Chahar was in +the saddle in a second without a murmur and galloped to his place in +the file. During this exit of the Chahars all the people were hidden +in their houses, anxiously peeping through cracks and corners of the +windows. But the Chahars passed peacefully out and only when they met a +caravan carrying Chinese wine about six miles from town did their +native tendency display itself again in pillaging and emptying several +containers. Somewhere in the vicinity of Hargana they were ambushed by +Tushegoun Lama and so treated that never again will the plains of Chahar +welcome the return of these warrior sons who were sent out to conquer +the Soyot descendants of the ancient Tuba. + +The day the column left Uliassutai a heavy snow fell, so that the road +became impassable. The horses first were up to their knees, tired out +and stopped. Some Mongol horsemen reached Uliassutai the following day +after great hardship and exertion, having made only twenty-five miles in +forty-eight hours. Caravans were compelled to stop along the routes. The +Mongols would not consent even to attempt journeys with oxen and yaks +which made but ten or twelve miles a day. Only camels could be used but +there were too few and their drivers did not feel that they could make +the first railway station of Kuku-Hoto, which was about fourteen hundred +miles away. We were forced again to wait: for which? Death or salvation? +Only our own energy and force could save us. Consequently my friend +and I started out, supplied with a tent, stove and food, for a new +reconnaissance along the shore of Lake Kosogol, whence the Mongol Sait +expected the new invasion of Red troops. + + +CHAPTER XX + +THE DEMON OF JAGISSTAI + + +Our small group consisting of four mounted and one pack camel moved +northward along the valley of the River Boyagol in the direction of the +Tarbagatai Mountains. The road was rocky and covered deep with snow. Our +camels walked very carefully, sniffing out the way as our guide shouted +the “Ok! Ok!” of the camel drivers to urge them on. We left behind us +the fortress and Chinese dugun, swung round the shoulder of a ridge +and, after fording several times an open stream, began the ascent of the +mountain. The scramble was hard and dangerous. Our camels picked their +way most cautiously, moving their ears constantly, as is their habit in +such stress. The trail zigzagged into mountain ravines, passed over the +tops of ridges, slipped back down again into shallower valleys but ever +made higher and higher altitudes. At one place under the grey clouds +that tipped the ridges we saw away up on the wide expanse of snow some +black spots. + +“Those are the obo, the sacred signs and altars for the bad demons +watching this pass,” explained the guide. “This pass is called +Jagisstai. Many very old tales about it have been kept alive, ancient as +these mountains themselves.” + +We encouraged him to tell us some of them. + +The Mongol, rocking on his camel and looking carefully all around him, +began his tale. + +“It was long ago, very long ago. . . . The grandson of the great Jenghiz +Khan sat on the throne of China and ruled all Asia. The Chinese killed +their Khan and wanted to exterminate all his family but a holy old Lama +slipped the wife and little son out of the palace and carried them off +on swift camels beyond the Great Wall, where they sank into our native +plains. The Chinese made a long search for the trails of our refugees +and at last found where they had gone. They despatched a strong +detachment on fleet horses to capture them. Sometimes the Chinese nearly +came up with the fleeing heir of our Khan but the Lama called down from +Heaven a deep snow, through which the camels could pass while the horses +were inextricably held. This Lama was from a distant monastery. We shall +pass this hospice of Jahantsi Kure. In order to reach it one must cross +over the Jagisstai. And it was just here the old Lama suddenly became +ill, rocked in his saddle and fell dead. Ta Sin Lo, the widow of the +Great Khan, burst into tears; but, seeing the Chinese riders galloping +there below across the valley, pressed on toward the pass. The camels +were tired, stopping every moment, nor did the woman know how to +stimulate and drive them on. The Chinese riders came nearer and nearer. +Already she heard their shouts of joy, as they felt within their grasp +the prize of the mandarins for the murder of the heir of the Great +Khan. The heads of the mother and the son would be brought to Peking and +exposed on the Ch’ien Men for the mockery and insults of the people. The +frightened mother lifted her little son toward heaven and exclaimed: + +“‘Earth and Gods of Mongolia, behold the offspring of the man who has +glorified the name of the Mongols from one end of the world to the +other! Allow not this very flesh of Jenghiz Khan to perish!’ + +“At this moment she noticed a white mouse sitting on a rock nearby. It +jumped to her knees and said: + +“‘I am sent to help you. Go on calmly and do not fear. The pursuers of +you and your son, to whom is destined a life of glory, have come to the +last bourne of their lives.’ + +“Ta Sin Lo did not see how one small mouse could hold in check three +hundred men. The mouse jumped back to the ground and again spoke: + +“‘I am the demon of Tarbagatai, Jagasstai. I am mighty and beloved of +the Gods but, because you doubted the powers of the miracle-speaking +mouse, from this day the Jagasstai will be dangerous for the good and +bad alike.’ + +“The Khan’s widow and son were saved but Jagasstai has ever remained +merciless. During the journey over this pass one must always be on one’s +guard. The demon of the mountain is ever ready to lead the traveler to +destruction.” + +All the tops of the ridges of the Tarbagatai are thickly dotted with the +obo of rocks and branches. In one place there was even erected a tower +of stones as an altar to propitiate the Gods for the doubts of Ta Sin +Lo. Evidently the demon expected us. When we began our ascent of the +main ridge, he blew into our faces with a sharp, cold wind, whistled and +roared and afterwards began casting over us whole blocks of snow torn +off the drifts above. We could not distinguish anything around us, +scarcely seeing the camel immediately in front. Suddenly I felt a +shock and looked about me. Nothing unusual was visible. I was seated +comfortably between two leather saddle bags filled with meat and bread +but . . . I could not see the head of my camel. He had disappeared. It +seemed that he had slipped and fallen to the bottom of a shallow ravine, +while the bags which were slung across his back without straps had +caught on a rock and stopped with myself there in the snow. This time +the demon of Jagasstai only played a joke but one that did not satisfy +him. He began to show more and more anger. With furious gusts of wind he +almost dragged us and our bags from the camels and nearly knocked over +our humped steeds, blinded us with frozen snow and prevented us from +breathing. Through long hours we dragged slowly on in the deep snow, +often falling over the edge of the rocks. At last we entered a small +valley where the wind whistled and roared with a thousand voices. It +had grown dark. The Mongol wandered around searching for the trail and +finally came back to us, flourishing his arms and saying: + +“We have lost the road. We must spend the night here. It is very bad +because we shall have no wood for our stove and the cold will grow +worse.” + +With great difficulties and with frozen hands we managed to set up our +tent in the wind, placing in it the now useless stove. We covered the +tent with snow, dug deep, long ditches in the drifts and forced our +camels to lie down in them by shouting the “Dzuk! Dzuk!” command to +kneel. Then we brought our packs into the tent. + +My companion rebelled against the thought of spending a cold night with +a stove hard by. + +“I am going out to look for firewood,” said he very decisively; and at +that took up the ax and started. He returned after an hour with a big +section of a telegraph pole. + +“You, Jenghiz Khans,” said he, rubbing his frozen hands, “take your +axes and go up there to the left on the mountain and you will find the +telegraph poles that have been cut down. I made acquaintance with the +old Jagasstai and he showed me the poles.” + +Just a little way from us the line of the Russian telegraphs passed, +that which had connected Irkutsk with Uliassutai before the days of the +Bolsheviki and which the Chinese had commanded the Mongols to cut +down and take the wire. These poles are now the salvation of travelers +crossing the pass. Thus we spent the night in a warm tent, supped +well from hot meat soup with vermicelli, all in the very center of the +dominion of the angered Jagasstai. Early the next morning we found +the road not more than two or three hundred paces from our tent and +continued our hard trip over the ridge of Tarbagatai. At the head of +the Adair River valley we noticed a flock of the Mongolian crows with +carmine beaks circling among the rocks. We approached the place and +discovered the recently fallen bodies of a horse and rider. What had +happened to them was difficult to guess. They lay close together; the +bridle was wound around the right wrist of the man; no trace of knife or +bullet was found. It was impossible to make out the features of the man. +His overcoat was Mongolian but his trousers and under jacket were not of +the Mongolian pattern. We asked ourselves what had happened to him. + +Our Mongol bowed his head in anxiety and said in hushed but assured +tones: “It is the vengeance of Jagasstai. The rider did not make +sacrifice at the southern obo and the demon has strangled him and his +horse.” + +At last Tarbagatai was behind us. Before us lay the valley of the Adair. +It was a narrow zigzagging plain following along the river bed between +close mountain ranges and covered with a rich grass. It was cut into two +parts by the road along which the prostrate telegraph poles now lay, as +the stumps of varying heights and long stretches of wire completed +the debris. This destruction of the telegraph line between Irkutsk and +Uliassutai was necessary and incident to the aggressive Chinese policy +in Mongolia. + +Soon we began to meet large herds of sheep, which were digging through +the snow to the dry but very nutritious grass. In some places yaks and +oxen were seen on the high slopes of the mountains. Only once, however, +did we see a shepherd, for all of them, spying us first, had made off +to the mountains or hidden in the ravines. We did not even discover any +yurtas along the way. The Mongols had also concealed all their movable +homes in the folds of the mountains out of sight and away from the reach +of the strong winds. Nomads are very skilful in choosing the places +for their winter dwellings. I had often in winter visited the Mongolian +yurtas set in such sheltered places that, as I came off the windy +plains, I felt as though I were in a conservatory. Once we came up to +a big herd of sheep. But as we approached most of the herd gradually +withdrew, leaving one part that remained unmoved as the other worked +off across the plains. From this section soon about thirty of forty head +emerged and went scrambling and leaping right up the mountain side. I +took up my glasses and began to observe them. The part of the herd that +remained behind were common sheep; the large section that had drawn off +over the plain were Mongolian antelopes (gazella gutturosa); while +the few that had taken to the mountain were the big horned sheep (ovis +argali). All this company had been grazing together with the domestic +sheep on the plains of the Adair, which attracted them with its good +grass and clear water. In many places the river was not frozen and in +some places I saw great clouds of steam over the surface of the open +water. In the meantime some of the antelopes and the mountain sheep +began looking at us. + +“Now they will soon begin to cross our trail,” laughed the Mongol; “very +funny beasts. Sometimes the antelopes course for miles in their endeavor +to outrun and cross in front of our horses and then, when they have done +so, go loping quietly off.” + +I had already seen this strategy of the antelopes and I decided to make +use of it for the purpose of the hunt. We organized our chase in the +following manner. We let one Mongol with the pack camel proceed as +we had been traveling and the other three of us spread out like a fan +headed toward the herd on the right of our true course. The herd stopped +and looked about puzzled, for their etiquette required that they should +cross the path of all four of these riders at once. Confusion began. +They counted about three thousand heads. All this army began to run +from one side to another but without forming any distinct groups. Whole +squadrons of them ran before us and then, noticing another rider, came +coursing back and made anew the same manoeuvre. One group of about fifty +head rushed in two rows toward my point. When they were about a hundred +and fifty paces away I shouted and fired. They stopped at once and began +to whirl round in one spot, running into one another and even jumping +over one another. Their panic cost them dear, for I had time to shoot +four times to bring down two beautiful heads. My friend was even more +fortunate than I, for he shot only once into the herd as it rushed past +him in parallel lines and dropped two with the same bullet. + +Meanwhile the argali had gone farther up the mountainside and taken +stand there in a row like so many soldiers, turning to gaze at us. Even +at this distance I could clearly distinguish their muscular bodies +with their majestic heads and stalwart horns. Picking up our prey, we +overtook the Mongol who had gone on ahead and continued our way. In many +places we came across the carcasses of sheep with necks torn and the +flesh of the sides eaten off. + +“It is the work of wolves,” said the Mongol. “They are always hereabout +in large numbers.” + +We came across several more herds of antelope, which ran along quietly +enough until they had made a comfortable distance ahead of us and then +with tremendous leaps and bounds crossed our bows like the proverbial +chicken on the road. Then, after a couple of hundred paces at this +speed, they stopped and began to graze quite calmly. Once I turned my +camel back and the whole herd immediately took up the challenge again, +coursed along parallel with me until they had made sufficient distance +for their ideas of safety and then once more rushed across the road +ahead of me as though it were paved with red hot stones, only to assume +their previous calmness and graze back on the same side of the trail +from which our column had first started them. On another occasion I did +this three times with a particular herd and laughed long and heartily at +their stupid customs. + +We passed a very unpleasant night in this valley. We stopped on the +shore of the frozen stream in a spot where we found shelter from the +wind under the lee of a high shore. In our stove we did have a fire and +in our kettle boiling water. Also our tent was warm and cozy. We were +quietly resting with pleasant thoughts of supper to soothe us, when +suddenly a howling and laughter as though from some inferno burst upon +us from just outside the tent, while from the other side of the valley +came the long and doleful howls in answer. + +“Wolves,” calmly explained the Mongol, who took my revolver and went out +of the tent. He did not return for some time but at last we heard a shot +and shortly after he entered. + +“I scared them a little,” said he. “They had congregated on the shore of +the Adair around the body of a camel.” + +“And they have not touched our camels?” we asked. + +“We shall make a bonfire behind our tent; then they will not bother us.” + +After our supper we turned in but I lay awake for a long time listening +to the crackle of the wood in the fire, the deep sighing breaths of the +camels and the distant howling of the packs of wolves; but finally, even +with all these noises, fell asleep. How long I had been asleep I did not +know when suddenly I was awakened by a strong blow in the side. I was +lying at the very edge of the tent and someone from outside had, without +the least ceremony, pushed strongly against me. I thought it was one of +the camels chewing the felt of the tent. I took my Mauser and struck the +wall. A sharp scream was followed by the sound of quick running over the +pebbles. In the morning we discovered the tracks of wolves approaching +our tent from the side opposite to the fire and followed them to where +they had begun to dig under the tent wall; but evidently one of the +would-be robbers was forced to retreat with a bruise on his head from +the handle of the Mauser. + +Wolves and eagles are the servants of Jagasstai, the Mongol very +seriously instructed us. However, this does not prevent the Mongols from +hunting them. Once in the camp of Prince Baysei I witnessed such a hunt. +The Mongol horsemen on the best of his steeds overtook the wolves on the +open plain and killed them with heavy bamboo sticks or tashur. A Russian +veterinary surgeon taught the Mongols to poison wolves with strychnine +but the Mongols soon abandoned this method because of its danger to +the dogs, the faithful friends and allies of the nomad. They do not, +however, touch the eagles and hawks but even feed them. When the Mongols +are slaughtering animals they often cast bits of meat up into the air +for the hawks and eagles to catch in flight, just as we throw a bit of +meat to a dog. Eagles and hawks fight and drive away the magpies and +crows, which are very dangerous for cattle and horses, because they +scratch and peck at the smallest wound or abrasion on the backs of the +animals until they make them into uncurable areas which they continue to +harass. + + +CHAPTER XXI + +THE NEST OF DEATH + + +Our camels were trudging to a slow but steady measure on toward the +north. We were making twenty-five to thirty miles a day as we approached +a small monastery that lay to the left of our route. It was in the +form of a square of large buildings surrounded by a high fence of +thick poles. Each side had an opening in the middle leading to the four +entrances of the temple in the center of the square. The temple was +built with the red lacquered columns and the Chinese style roofs and +dominated the surrounding low dwellings of the Lamas. On the opposite +side of the road lay what appeared to be a Chinese fortress but which +was in reality a trading compound or dugun, which the Chinese always +build in the form of a fortress with double walls a few feet apart, +within which they place their houses and shops and usually have twenty +or thirty traders fully armed for any emergency. In case of need these +duguns can be used as blockhouses and are capable of withstanding long +sieges. Between the dugun and the monastery and nearer to the road I +made out the camp of some nomads. Their horses and cattle were nowhere +to be seen. Evidently the Mongols had stopped here for some time and +had left their cattle in the mountains. Over several yurtas waved +multi-colored triangular flags, a sign of the presence of disease. Near +some yurtas high poles were stuck into the ground with Mongol caps at +their tops, which indicated that the host of the yurta had died. The +packs of dogs wandering over the plain showed that the dead bodies lay +somewhere near, either in the ravines or along the banks of the river. + +As we approached the camp, we heard from a distance the frantic beating +of drums, the mournful sounds of the flute and shrill, mad shouting. +Our Mongol went forward to investigate for us and reported that several +Mongolian families had come here to the monastery to seek aid from the +Hutuktu Jahansti who was famed for his miracles of healing. The people +were stricken with leprosy and black smallpox and had come from long +distances only to find that the Hutuktu was not at the monastery but had +gone to the Living Buddha in Urga. Consequently they had been forced to +invite the witch doctors. The people were dying one after another. Just +the day before they had cast on the plain the twenty-seventh man. + +Meanwhile, as we talked, the witch doctor came out of one of the yurtas. +He was an old man with a cataract on one eye and with a face deeply +scarred by smallpox. He was dressed in tatters with various colored bits +of cloth hanging down from his waist. He carried a drum and a flute. We +could see froth on his blue lips and madness in his eyes. Suddenly he +began to whirl round and dance with a thousand prancings of his long +legs and writhings of his arms and shoulders, still beating the drum and +playing the flute or crying and raging at intervals, ever accelerating +his movements until at last with pallid face and bloodshot eyes he fell +on the snow, where he continued to writhe and give out his incoherent +cries. In this manner the doctor treated his patients, frightening with +his madness the bad devils that carry disease. Another witch doctor gave +his patients dirty, muddy water, which I learned was the water from the +bath of the very person of the Living Buddha who had washed in it his +“divine” body born from the sacred flower of the lotus. + +“Om! Om!” both witches continuously screamed. + +While the doctors fought with the devils, the ill people were left to +themselves. They lay in high fever under the heaps of sheepskins and +overcoats, were delirious, raved and threw themselves about. By the +braziers squatted adults and children who were still well, indifferently +chatting, drinking tea and smoking. In all the yurtas I saw the +diseased and the dead and such misery and physical horrors as cannot be +described. + +And I thought: “Oh, Great Jenghiz Khan! Why did you with your keen +understanding of the whole situation of Asia and Europe, you who devoted +all your life to the glory of the name of the Mongols, why did you not +give to your own people, who preserve their old morality, honesty and +peaceful customs, the enlightenment that would have saved them from such +death? Your bones in the mausoleum at Karakorum being destroyed by +the centuries that pass over them must cry out against the rapid +disappearance of your formerly great people, who were feared by half the +civilized world!” + +Such thoughts filled my brain when I saw this camp of the dead tomorrow +and when I heard the groans, shoutings and raving of dying men, +women and children. Somewhere in the distance the dogs were howling +mournfully, and monotonously the drum of the tired witch rolled. + +“Forward!” I could not witness longer this dark horror, which I had +no means or force to eradicate. We quickly passed on from the ominous +place. Nor could we shake the thought that some horrible invisible +spirit was following us from this scene of terror. “The devils of +disease?” “The pictures of horror and misery?” “The souls of men +who have been sacrificed on the altar of darkness of Mongolia?” An +inexplicable fear penetrated into our consciousness from whose grasp +we could not release ourselves. Only when we had turned from the road, +passed over a timbered ridge into a bowl in the mountains from which we +could see neither Jahantsi Kure, the dugun nor the squirming grave of +dying Mongols could we breathe freely again. + +Presently we discovered a large lake. It was Tisingol. Near the shore +stood a large Russian house, the telegraph station between Kosogol and +Uliassutai. + + +CHAPTER XXII + +AMONG THE MURDERERS + + +As we approached the telegraph station, we were met by a blonde young +man who was in charge of the office, Kanine by name. With some little +confusion he offered us a place in his house for the night. When we +entered the room, a tall, lanky man rose from the table and indecisively +walked toward us, looking very attentively at us the while. + +“Guests . . .” explained Kanine. “They are going to Khathyl. Private +persons, strangers, foreigners . . .” + +“A-h,” drawled the stranger in a quiet, comprehending tone. + +While we were untying our girdles and with difficulty getting out of our +great Mongolian coats, the tall man was animatedly whispering something +to our host. As we approached the table to sit down and rest, I +overheard him say: “We are forced to postpone it,” and saw Kanine simply +nod in answer. + +Several other people were seated at the table, among them the assistant +of Kanine, a tall blonde man with a white face, who talked like a +Gatling gun about everything imaginable. He was half crazy and his +semi-madness expressed itself when any loud talking, shouting or sudden +sharp report led him to repeat the words of the one to whom he was +talking at the time or to relate in a mechanical, hurried manner stories +of what was happening around him just at this particular juncture. The +wife of Kanine, a pale, young, exhausted-looking woman with frightened +eyes and a face distorted by fear, was also there and near her a young +girl of fifteen with cropped hair and dressed like a man, as well as +the two small sons of Kanine. We made acquaintance with all of them. +The tall stranger called himself Gorokoff, a Russian colonist from +Samgaltai, and presented the short-haired girl as his sister. Kanine’s +wife looked at us with plainly discernible fear and said nothing, +evidently displeased over our being there. However, we had no choice and +consequently began drinking tea and eating our bread and cold meat. + +Kanine told us that ever since the telegraph line had been destroyed all +his family and relatives had felt very keenly the poverty and hardship +that naturally followed. The Bolsheviki did not send him any salary from +Irkutsk, so that he was compelled to shift for himself as best he +could. They cut and cured hay for sale to the Russian colonists, +handled private messages and merchandise from Khathyl to Uliassutai and +Samgaltai, bought and sold cattle, hunted and in this manner managed to +exist. Gorokoff announced that his commercial affairs compelled him +to go to Khathyl and that he and his sister would be glad to join +our caravan. He had a most unprepossessing, angry-looking face with +colorless eyes that always avoided those of the person with whom he was +speaking. During the conversation we asked Kanine if there were Russian +colonists near by, to which he answered with knitted brow and a look of +disgust on his face: + +“There is one rich old man, Bobroff, who lives a verst away from our +station; but I would not advise you to visit him. He is a miserly, +inhospitable old fellow who does not like guests.” + +During these words of her husband Madame Kanine dropped her eyes and +contracted her shoulders in something resembling a shudder. Gorokoff and +his sister smoked along indifferently. I very clearly remarked all this +as well as the hostile tone of Kanine, the confusion of his wife and +the artificial indifference of Gorokoff; and I determined to see the +old colonist given such a bad name by Kanine. In Uliassutai I knew +two Bobroffs. I said to Kanine that I had been asked to hand a letter +personally to Bobroff and, after finishing my tea, put on my overcoat +and went out. + +The house of Bobroff stood in a deep sink in the mountains, surrounded +by a high fence over which the low roofs of the houses could be seen. A +light shone through the window. I knocked at the gate. A furious barking +of dogs answered me and through the cracks of the fence I made out four +huge black Mongol dogs, showing their teeth and growling as they rushed +toward the gate. Inside the court someone opened the door and called +out: “Who is there?” + +I answered that I was traveling through from Uliassutai. The dogs were +first caught and chained and I was then admitted by a man who looked me +over very carefully and inquiringly from head to foot. A revolver handle +stuck out of his pocket. Satisfied with his observations and learning +that I knew his relatives, he warmly welcomed me to the house and +presented me to his wife, a dignified old woman, and to his beautiful +little adopted daughter, a girl of five years. She had been found on +the plain beside the dead body of her mother exhausted in her attempt to +escape from the Bolsheviki in Siberia. + +Bobroff told me that the Russian detachment of Kazagrandi had succeeded +in driving the Red troops away from the Kosogol and that we could +consequently continue our trip to Khathyl without danger. + +“Why did you not stop with me instead of with those brigands?” asked the +old fellow. + +I began to question him and received some very important news. It +seemed that Kanine was a Bolshevik, the agent of the Irkutsk Soviet, and +stationed here for purposes of observation. However, now he was rendered +harmless, because the road between him and Irkutsk was interrupted. +Still from Biisk in the Altai country had just come a very important +commissar. + +“Gorokoff?” I asked. + +“That’s what he calls himself,” replied the old fellow; “but I am also +from Biisk and I know everyone there. His real name is Pouzikoff and the +short-haired girl with him is his mistress. He is the commissar of the +‘Cheka’ and she is the agent of this establishment. Last August the two +of them shot with their revolvers seventy bound officers from Kolchak’s +army. Villainous, cowardly murderers! Now they have come here for a +reconnaissance. They wanted to stay in my house but I knew them too well +and refused them place.” + +“And you do not fear him?” I asked, remembering the different words and +glances of these people as they sat at the table in the station. + +“No,” answered the old man. “I know how to defend myself and my family +and I have a protector too--my son, such a shot, a rider and a fighter +as does not exist in all Mongolia. I am very sorry that you will not +make the acquaintance of my boy. He has gone off to the herds and will +return only tomorrow evening.” + +We took most cordial leave of each other and I promised to stop with him +on my return. + +“Well, what yarns did Bobroff tell you about us?” was the question with +which Kanine and Gorokoff met me when I came back to the station. + +“Nothing about you,” I answered, “because he did not even want to speak +with me when he found out that I was staying in your house. What is the +trouble between you?” I asked of them, expressing complete astonishment +on my face. + +“It is an old score,” growled Gorokoff. + +“A malicious old churl,” Kanine added in agreement, the while the +frightened, suffering-laden eyes of his wife again gave expression +to terrifying horror, as if she momentarily expected a deadly blow. +Gorokoff began to pack his luggage in preparation for the journey with +us the following morning. We prepared our simple beds in an adjoining +room and went to sleep. I whispered to my friend to keep his revolver +handy for anything that might happen but he only smiled as he dragged +his revolver and his ax from his coat to place them under his pillow. + +“This people at the outset seemed to me very suspicious,” he whispered. +“They are cooking up something crooked. Tomorrow I shall ride behind +this Gorokoff and shall prepare for him a very faithful one of my +bullets, a little dum-dum.” + +The Mongols spent the night under their tent in the open court beside +their camels, because they wanted to be near to feed them. About seven +o’clock we started. My friend took up his post as rear guard to our +caravan, keeping all the time behind Gorokoff, who with his sister, both +armed from tip to toe, rode splendid mounts. + +“How have you kept your horses in such fine condition coming all the way +from Samgaltai?” I inquired as I looked over their fine beasts. + +When he answered that these belonged to his host, I realized that Kanine +was not so poor as he made out; for any rich Mongol would have given him +in exchange for one of these lovely animals enough sheep to have kept +his household in mutton for a whole year. + +Soon we came to a large swamp surrounded by dense brush, where I was +much astonished by seeing literally hundreds of white kuropatka or +partridges. Out of the water rose a flock of duck with a mad rush as +we hove in sight. Winter, cold driving wind, snow and wild ducks! The +Mongol explained it to me thus: + +“This swamp always remains warm and never freezes. The wild ducks live +here the year round and the kuropatka too, finding fresh food in the +soft warm earth.” + +As I was speaking with the Mongol I noticed over the swamp a tongue of +reddish-yellow flame. It flashed and disappeared at once but later, on +the farther edge, two further tongues ran upward. I realized that here +was the real will-o’-the-wisp surrounded by so many thousands of legends +and explained so simply by chemistry as merely a flash of methane or +swamp gas generated by the putrefying of vegetable matter in the warm +damp earth. + +“Here dwell the demons of Adair, who are in perpetual war with those of +Muren,” explained the Mongol. + +“Indeed,” I thought, “if in prosaic Europe in our days the inhabitants +of our villages believe these flames to be some wild sorcery, then +surely in the land of mystery they must be at least the evidences of war +between the demons of two neighboring rivers!” + +After passing this swamp we made out far ahead of us a large monastery. +Though this was some half mile off the road, the Gorokoffs said they +would ride over to it to make some purchases in the Chinese shops there. +They quickly rode away, promising to overtake us shortly, but we did not +see them again for a while. They slipped away without leaving any trail +but we met them later in very unexpected circumstances of fatal portent +for them. On our part we were highly satisfied that we were rid of +them so soon and, after they were gone, I imparted to my friend the +information gleaned from Bobroff the evening before. + + +CHAPTER XXIII + +ON A VOLCANO + + +The following evening we arrived at Khathyl, a small Russian settlement +of ten scattered houses in the valley of the Egingol or Yaga, which here +takes its waters from the Kosogol half a mile above the village. The +Kosogol is a huge Alpine lake, deep and cold, eighty-five miles in +length and from ten to thirty in width. On the western shore live the +Darkhat Soyots, who call it Hubsugul, the Mongols, Kosogol. Both the +Soyots and Mongols consider this a terrible and sacred lake. It is very +easy to understand this prejudice because the lake lies in a region of +present volcanic activity, where in the summer on perfectly calm sunny +days it sometimes lashes itself into great waves that are dangerous not +only to the native fishing boats but also to the large Russian passenger +steamers that ply on the lake. In winter also it sometimes entirely +breaks up its covering of ice and gives off great clouds of steam. +Evidently the bottom of the lake is sporadically pierced by discharging +hot springs or, perhaps, by streams of lava. Evidence of some great +underground convulsion like this is afforded by the mass of killed fish +which at times dams the outlet river in its shallow places. The lake is +exceedingly rich in fish, chiefly varieties of trout and salmon, and +is famous for its wonderful “white fish,” which was previously sent all +over Siberia and even down into Manchuria so far as Moukden. It is fat +and remarkably tender and produces fine caviar. Another variety in +the lake is the white khayrus or trout, which in the migration season, +contrary to the customs of most fish, goes down stream into the Yaga, +where it sometimes fills the river from bank to bank with swarms of +backs breaking the surface of the water. However, this fish is not +caught, because it is infested with worms and is unfit for food. Even +cats and dogs will not touch it. This is a very interesting phemonenon +and was being investigated and studied by Professor Dorogostaisky of the +University at Irkutsk when the coming of the Bolsheviki interrupted his +work. + +In Khathyl we found a panic. The Russian detachment of Colonel +Kazagrandi, after having twice defeated the Bolsheviki and well on its +march against Irkutsk, was suddenly rendered impotent and scattered +through internal strife among the officers. The Bolsheviki took +advantage of this situation, increased their forces to one thousand men +and began a forward movement to recover what they had lost, while the +remnants of Colonel Kazagrandi’s detachment were retreating on Khathyl, +where he determined to make his last stand against the Reds. The +inhabitants were loading their movable property with their families into +carts and scurrying away from the town, leaving all their cattle and +horses to whomsoever should have the power to seize and hold them. +One party intended to hide in the dense larch forest and the mountain +ravines not far away, while another party made southward for Muren Kure +and Uliassutai. The morning following our arrival the Mongol official +received word that the Red troops had outflanked Colonel Kazagrandi’s +men and were approaching Khathyl. The Mongol loaded his documents and +his servants on eleven camels and left his yamen. Our Mongol guides, +without ever saying a word to us, secretly slipped off with him and left +us without camels. Our situation thus became desperate. We hastened to +the colonists who had not yet got away to bargain with them for camels, +but they had previously, in anticipation of trouble, sent their herds +to distant Mongols and so could do nothing to help us. Then we betook +ourselves to Dr. V. G. Gay, a veterinarian living in the town, famous +throughout Mongolia for his battle against rinderpest. He lived here +with his family and after being forced to give up his government work +became a cattle dealer. He was a most interesting person, clever and +energetic, and the one who had been appointed under the Czarist regime +to purchase all the meat supplies from Mongolia for the Russian Army on +the German Front. He organized a huge enterprise in Mongolia but when +the Bolsheviki seized power in 1917 he transferred his allegiance and +began to work with them. Then in May, 1918, when the Kolchak forces +drove the Bolsheviki out of Siberia, he was arrested and taken for +trial. However, he was released because he was looked upon as the single +individual to organize this big Mongolian enterprise and he handed +to Admiral Kolchak all the supplies of meat and the silver formerly +received from the Soviet commissars. At this time Gay had been serving +as the chief organizer and supplier of the forces of Kazagrandi. + +When we went to him, he at once suggested that we take the only thing +left, some poor, broken-down horses which would be able to carry us the +sixty miles to Muren Kure, where we could secure camels to return to +Uliassutai. However, even these were being kept some distance from the +town so that we should have to spend the night there, the night in which +the Red troops were expected to arrive. Also we were much astonished to +see that Gay was remaining there with his family right up to the time of +the expected arrival of the Reds. The only others in the town were a few +Cossacks, who had been ordered to stay behind to watch the movements of +the Red troops. The night came. My friend and I were prepared either +to fight or, in the last event, to commit suicide. We stayed in a small +house near the Yaga, where some workmen were living who could not, and +did not feel it necessary to, leave. They went up on a hill from which +they could scan the whole country up to the range from behind which the +Red detachment must appear. From this vantage point in the forest one of +the workmen came running in and cried out: + +“Woe, woe to us! The Reds have arrived. A horseman is galloping fast +through the forest road. I called to him but he did not answer me. It +was dark but I knew the horse was a strange one.” + +“Do not babble so,” said another of the workmen. “Some Mongol rode by +and you jumped to the conclusion that he was a Red.” + +“No, it was not a Mongol,” he replied. “The horse was shod. I heard the +sound of iron shoes on the road. Woe to us!” + +“Well,” said my friend, “it seems that this is our finish. It is a silly +way for it all to end.” + +He was right. Just then there was a knock at our door but it was that +of the Mongol bringing us three horses for our escape. Immediately we +saddled them, packed the third beast with our tent and food and rode off +at once to take leave of Gay. + +In his house we found the whole war council. Two or three colonists and +several Cossacks had galloped from the mountains and announced that the +Red detachment was approaching Khathyl but would remain for the night +in the forest, where they were building campfires. In fact, through +the house windows we could see the glare of the fires. It seemed very +strange that the enemy should await the morning there in the forest when +they were right on the village they wished to capture. + +An armed Cossack entered the room and announced that two armed men from +the detachment were approaching. All the men in the room pricked up +their ears. Outside were heard the horses’ hoofs followed by men’s +voices and a knock at the door. + +“Come in,” said Gay. + +Two young men entered, their moustaches and beards white and their +cheeks blazing red from the cold. They were dressed in the common +Siberian overcoat with the big Astrakhan caps, but they had no weapons. +Questions began. It developed that it was a detachment of White peasants +from the Irkutsk and Yakutsk districts who had been fighting with the +Bolsheviki. They had been defeated somewhere in the vicinity of Irkutsk +and were now trying to make a junction with Kazagrandi. The leader of +this band was a socialist, Captain Vassilieff, who had suffered much +under the Czar because of his tenets. + +Our troubles had vanished but we decided to start immediately to Muren +Kure, as we had gathered our information and were in a hurry to make +our report. We started. On the road we overtook three Cossacks who were +going out to bring back the colonists who were fleeing to the south. We +joined them and, dismounting, we all led our horses over the ice. The +Yaga was mad. The subterranean forces produced underneath the ice great +heaving waves which with a swirling roar threw up and tore loose great +sections of ice, breaking them into small blocks and sucking them under +the unbroken downstream field. Cracks ran like snakes over the surface +in different directions. One of the Cossacks fell into one of these +but we had just time to save him. He was forced by his ducking in such +extreme cold to turn back to Khathyl. Our horses slipped about and fell +several times. Men and animals felt the presence of death which hovered +over them and momentarily threatened them with destruction. At last we +made the farther bank and continued southward down the valley, glad to +have left the geological and figurative volcanoes behind us. Ten miles +farther on we came up with the first party of refugees. They had spread +a big tent and made a fire inside, filling it with warmth and smoke. +Their camp was made beside the establishment of a large Chinese trading +house, where the owners refused to let the colonists come into their +amply spacious buildings, even though there were children, women and +invalids among the refugees. We spent but half an hour here. The road +as we continued was easy, save in places where the snow lay deep. We +crossed the fairly high divide between the Egingol and Muren. Near the +pass one very unexpected event occurred to us. We crossed the mouth of +a fairly wide valley whose upper end was covered with a dense wood. Near +this wood we noticed two horsemen, evidently watching us. Their manner +of sitting in their saddles and the character of their horses told us +that they were not Mongols. We began shouting and waving to them; but +they did not answer. Out of the wood emerged a third and stopped to +look at us. We decided to interview them and, whipping up our horses, +galloped toward them. When we were about one thousand yards from them, +they slipped from their saddles and opened on us with a running fire. +Fortunately we rode a little apart and thus made a poor target for them. +We jumped off our horses, dropped prone on the ground and prepared to +fight. However, we did not fire because we thought it might be a mistake +on their part, thinking that we were Reds. They shortly made off. Their +shots from the European rifles had given us further proof that they were +not Mongols. We waited until they had disappeared into the woods and +then went forward to investigate their tracks, which we found were those +of shod horses, clearly corroborating the earlier evidence that they +were not Mongols. Who could they have been? We never found out; yet what +a different relationship they might have borne to our lives, had their +shots been true! + +After we had passed over the divide, we met the Russian colonist D. A. +Teternikoff from Muren Kure, who invited us to stay in his house and +promised to secure camels for us from the Lamas. The cold was intense +and heightened by a piercing wind. During the day we froze to the bone +but at night thawed and warmed up nicely by our tent stove. After two +days we entered the valley of Muren and from afar made out the square +of the Kure with its Chinese roofs and large red temples. Nearby was +a second square, the Chinese and Russian settlement. Two hours more +brought us to the house of our hospitable companion and his attractive +young wife who feasted us with a wonderful luncheon of tasty dishes. We +spent five days at Muren waiting for the camels to be engaged. During +this time many refugees arrived from Khathyl because Colonel Kazagrandi +was gradually falling back upon the town. Among others there were two +Colonels, Plavako and Maklakoff, who had caused the disruption of the +Kazagrandi force. No sooner had the refugees appeared in Muren Kure +than the Mongolian officials announced that the Chinese authorities had +ordered them to drive out all Russian refugees. + +“Where can we go now in winter with women and children and no homes of +our own?” asked the distraught refugees. + +“That is of no moment to us,” answered the Mongolian officials. “The +Chinese authorities are angry and have ordered us to drive you away. We +cannot help you at all.” + +The refugees had to leave Muren Kure and so erected their tents in the +open not far away. Plavako and Maklakoff bought horses and started out +for Van Kure. Long afterwards I learned that both had been killed by the +Chinese along the road. + +We secured three camels and started out with a large group of Chinese +merchants and Russian refugees to make Uliassutai, preserving +the warmest recollections of our courteous hosts, T. V. and D. A. +Teternikoff. For the trip we had to pay for our camels the very high +price of 33 lan of the silver bullion which had been supplied us by an +American firm in Uliassutai, the equivalent roughly of 2.7 pounds of the +white metal. + + +CHAPTER XXIV + +A BLOODY CHASTISEMENT + + +Before long we struck the road which we had travelled coming north and +saw again the kindly rows of chopped down telegraph poles which had once +so warmly protected us. Over the timbered hillocks north of the valley +of Tisingol we wended just as it was growing dark. We decided to stay +in Bobroff’s house and our companions thought to seek the hospitality of +Kanine in the telegraph station. At the station gate we found a soldier +with a rifle, who questioned us as to who we were and whence we had come +and, being apparently satisfied, whistled out a young officer from the +house. + +“Lieutenant Ivanoff,” he introduced himself. “I am staying here with my +detachment of White Partisans.” + +He had come from near Irkutsk with his following of ten men and had +formed a connection with Lieutenant-Colonel Michailoff at Uliassutai, +who commanded him to take possession of this blockhouse. + +“Enter, please,” he said hospitably. + +I explained to him that I wanted to stay with Bobroff, whereat he made a +despairing gesture with his hand and said: + +“Don’t trouble yourself. The Bobroffs are killed and their house +burned.” + +I could not keep back a cry of horror. + +The Lieutenant continued: “Kanine and the Pouzikoffs killed them, +pillaged the place and afterwards burned the house with their dead +bodies in it. Do you want to see it?” + +My friend and I went with the Lieutenant and looked over the ominous +site. Blackened uprights stood among charred beams and planks while +crockery and iron pots and pans were scattered all around. A little +to one side under some felt lay the remains of the four unfortunate +individuals. The Lieutenant first spoke: + +“I reported the case to Uliassutai and received word back that the +relatives of the deceased would come with two officers, who would +investigate the affair. That is why I cannot bury the bodies.” + +“How did it happen?” we asked, oppressed by the sad picture. + +“It was like this,” he began. “I was approaching Tisingol at night with +my ten soldiers. Fearing that there might be Reds here, we sneaked up +to the station and looked into the windows. We saw Pouzikoff, Kanine +and the short-haired girl, looking over and dividing clothes and +other things and weighing lumps of silver. I did not at once grasp the +significance of all this; but, feeling the need for continued caution, +ordered one of my soldiers to climb the fence and open the gate. We +rushed into the court. The first to run from the house was Kanine’s +wife, who threw up her hands and shrieked in fear: ‘I knew that +misfortune would come of all this!’ and then fainted. One of the men ran +out of a side door to a shed in the yard and there tried to get over the +fence. I had not noticed him but one of my soldiers caught him. We were +met at the door by Kanine, who was white and trembling. I realized +that something important had taken place, placed them all under arrest, +ordered the men tied and placed a close guard. All my questions were +met with silence save by Madame Kanine who cried: ‘Pity, pity for the +children! They are innocent!’ as she dropped on her knees and stretched +out her hands in supplication to us. The short-haired girl laughed out +of impudent eyes and blew a puff of smoke into my face. I was forced to +threaten them and said: + +“‘I know that you have committed some crime, but you do not want to +confess. If you do not, I shall shoot the men and take the women to +Uliassutai to try them there.’ + +“I spoke with definiteness of voice and intention, for they roused my +deepest anger. Quite to my surprise the short-haired girl first began to +speak. + +“‘I want to tell you about everything,’ she said. + +“I ordered ink, paper and pen brought me. My soldiers were the +witnesses. Then I prepared the protocol of the confession of Pouzikoff’s +wife. This was her dark and bloody tale. + +“‘My husband and I are Bolshevik commissars and we have been sent to +find out how many White officers are hidden in Mongolia. But the old +fellow Bobroff knew us. We wanted to go away but Kanine kept us, telling +us that Bobroff was rich and that he had for a long time wanted to kill +him and pillage his place. We agreed to join him. We decoyed the young +Bobroff to come and play cards with us. When he was going home my +husband stole along behind and shot him. Afterwards we all went to +Bobroff’s place. I climbed upon the fence and threw some poisoned meat +to the dogs, who were dead in a few minutes. Then we all climbed over. +The first person to emerge from the house was Bobroff’s wife. Pouzikoff, +who was hidden behind the door, killed her with his ax. The old fellow +we killed with a blow of the ax as he slept. The little girl ran out +into the room as she heard the noise and Kanine shot her in the head +with buckshot. Afterwards we looted the house and burned it, even +destroying the horses and cattle. Later all would have been completely +burned, so that no traces remained, but you suddenly arrived and these +stupid fellows at once betrayed us.’ + +“It was a dastardly affair,” continued the Lieutenant, as we returned +to the station. “The hair raised on my head as I listened to the calm +description of this young woman, hardly more than a girl. Only then did +I fully realize what depravity Bolshevism had brought into the world, +crushing out faith, fear of God and conscience. Only then did I +understand that all honest people must fight without compromise against +this most dangerous enemy of mankind, so long as life and strength +endure.” + +As we walked I noticed at the side of the road a black spot. It +attracted and fixed my attention. + +“What is that?” I asked, pointing to the spot. + +“It is the murderer Pouzikoff whom I shot,” answered the Lieutenant. “I +would have shot both Kanine and the wife of Pouzikoff but I was sorry +for Kanine’s wife and children and I haven’t learned the lesson +of shooting women. Now I shall send them along with you under the +surveillance of my soldiers to Uliassutai. The same result will come, +for the Mongols who try them for the murder will surely kill them.” + +This is what happened at Tisingol, on whose shores the will-o’-the-wisp +flits over the marshy pools and near which runs the cleavage of over two +hundred miles that the last earthquake left in the surface of the land. +Maybe it was out of this cleavage that Pouzikoff, Kanine and the others +who have sought to infect the whole world with horror and crime made +their appearance from the land of the inferno. One of Lieutenant +Ivanoff’s soldiers, who was always praying and pale, called them all +“the servants of Satan.” + +Our trip from Tisingol to Uliassutai in the company of these criminals +was very unpleasant. My friend and I entirely lost our usual strength +of spirit and healthy frame of mind. Kanine persistently brooded and +thought while the impudent woman laughed, smoked and joked with the +soldiers and several of our companions. At last we crossed the Jagisstai +and in a few hours descried at first the fortress and then the low adobe +houses huddled on the plain, which we knew to be Uliassutai. + + +CHAPTER XXV + +HARASSING DAYS + + +Once more we found ourselves in the whirl of events. During our +fortnight away a great deal had happened here. The Chinese Commissioner +Wang Tsao-tsun had sent eleven envoys to Urga but none had returned. The +situation in Mongolia remained far from clear. The Russian detachment +had been increased by the arrival of new colonists and secretly +continued its illegal existence, although the Chinese knew about it +through their omnipresent system of spies. In the town no Russian or +foreign citizens left their houses and all remained armed and ready to +act. At night armed sentinels stood guard in all their court-yards. +It was the Chinese who induced such precautions. By order of their +Commissioner all the Chinese merchants with stocks of rifles armed their +staffs and handed over any surplus guns to the officials, who with +these formed and equipped a force of two hundred coolies into a special +garrison of gamins. Then they took possession of the Mongolian arsenal +and distributed these additional guns among the Chinese vegetable +farmers in the nagan hushun, where there was always a floating +population of the lowest grade of transient Chinese laborers. This +trash of China now felt themselves strong, gathered together in +excited discussions and evidently were preparing for some outburst of +aggression. At night the coolies transported many boxes of cartridges +from the Chinese shops to the nagan hushun and the behaviour of the +Chinese mob became unbearably audacious. These coolies and gamins +impertinently stopped and searched people right on the streets and +sought to provoke fights that would allow them to take anything they +wanted. Through secret news we received from certain Chinese quarters +we learned that the Chinese were preparing a pogrom for all the Russians +and Mongols in Uliassutai. We fully realized that it was only necessary +to fire one single house at the right part of the town and the entire +settlement of wooden buildings would go up in flames. The whole +population prepared to defend themselves, increased the sentinels in the +compounds, appointed leaders for certain sections of the town, organized +a special fire brigade and prepared horses, carts and food for a hasty +flight. The situation became worse when news arrived from Kobdo that +the Chinese there had made a pogrom, killing some of the inhabitants and +burning the whole town after a wild looting orgy. Most of the people +got away to the forests on the mountains but it was at night and +consequently without warm clothes and without food. During the following +days these mountains around Kobdo heard many cries of misfortune, woe +and death. The severe cold and hunger killed off the women and children +out under the open sky of the Mongolian winter. This news was soon known +to the Chinese. They laughed in mockery and soon organized a big meeting +at the nagan hushun to discuss letting the mob and gamins loose on the +town. + +A young Chinese, the son of a cook of one of the colonists, revealed +this news. We immediately decided to make an investigation. A Russian +officer and my friend joined me with this young Chinese as a guide for +a trip to the outskirts of the town. We feigned simply a stroll but were +stopped by the Chinese sentinel on the side of the city toward the nagan +hushun with an impertinent command that no one was allowed to leave +the town. As we spoke with him, I noticed that between the town and the +nagan hushun Chinese guards were stationed all along the way and that +streams of Chinese were moving in that direction. We saw at once it was +impossible to reach the meeting from this approach, so we chose another +route. We left the city from the eastern side and passed along by the +camp of the Mongolians who had been reduced to beggary by the Chinese +impositions. There also they were evidently anxiously awaiting the turn +of events, for, in spite of the lateness of the hour, none had gone to +sleep. We slipped out on the ice and worked around by the river to the +nagan hushun. As we passed free of the city we began to sneak cautiously +along, taking advantage of every bit of cover. We were armed with +revolvers and hand grenades and knew that a small detachment had been +prepared in the town to come to our aid, if we should be in danger. +First the young Chinese stole forward with my friend following him like +a shadow, constantly reminding him that he would strangle him like a +mouse if he made one move to betray us. I fear the young guide did not +greatly enjoy the trip with my gigantic friend puffing all too loudly +with the unusual exertions. At last the fences of nagan hushun were in +sight and nothing between us and them save the open plain, where our +group would have been easily spotted; so that we decided to crawl up one +by one, save that the Chinese was retained in the society of my trusted +friend. Fortunately there were many heaps of frozen manure on the plain, +which we made use of as cover to lead us right up to our objective +point, the fence of the enclosures. In the shadow of this we slunk along +to the courtyard where the voices of the excited crowd beckoned us. As +we took good vantage points in the darkness for listening and making +observations, we remarked two extraordinary things in our immediate +neighborhood. + +Another invisible guest was present with us at the Chinese gathering. +He lay on the ground with his head in a hole dug by the dogs under the +fence. He was perfectly still and evidently had not heard our advance. +Nearby in a ditch lay a white horse with his nose muzzled and a little +further away stood another saddled horse tied to a fence. + +In the courtyard there was a great hubbub. About two thousand men +were shouting, arguing and flourishing their arms about in wild +gesticulations. Nearly all were armed with rifles, revolvers, swords +and axes. In among the crowd circulated the gamins, constantly +talking, handing out papers, explaining and assuring. Finally a big, +broad-shouldered Chinese mounted the well combing, waved his rifle about +over his head and opened a tirade in strong, sharp tones. + +“He is assuring the people,” said our interpreter, “that they must +do here what the Chinese have done in Kobdo and must secure from the +Commissioner the assurance of an order to his guard not to prevent the +carrying out of their plans. Also that the Chinese Commissioner +must demand from the Russians all their weapons. ‘Then we shall take +vengeance on the Russians for their Blagoveschensk crime when they +drowned three thousand Chinese in 1900. You remain here while I go to +the Commissioner and talk with him.’” + +He jumped down from the well and quickly made his way to the gate toward +the town. At once I saw the man who was lying with his head under the +fence draw back out of his hole, take his white horse from the ditch and +then run over to untie the other horse and lead them both back to our +side, which was away from the city. He left the second horse there and +hid himself around the corner of the hushun. The spokesman went out of +the gate and, seeing his horse over on the other side of the enclosure, +slung his rifle across his back and started for his mount. He had gone +about half way when the stranger behind the corner of the fence suddenly +galloped out and in a flash literally swung the man clear from the +ground up across the pommel of his saddle, where we saw him tie the +mouth of the semi-strangled Chinese with a cloth and dash off with him +toward the west away from the town. + +“Who do you suppose he is?” I asked of my friend, who answered up at +once: “It must be Tushegoun Lama. . . .” + +His whole appearance did strongly remind me of this mysterious Lama +avenger and his manner of addressing himself to his enemy was a strict +replica of that of Tushegoun. Late in the night we learned that some +time after their orator had gone to seek the Commissioner’s cooperation +in their venture, his head had been flung over the fence into the midst +of the waiting audience and that eight gamins had disappeared on their +way from the hushun to the town without leaving trace or trail. This +event terrorized the Chinese mob and calmed their heated spirits. + +The next day we received very unexpected aid. A young Mongol galloped in +from Urga, his overcoat torn, his hair all dishevelled and fallen to +his shoulders and a revolver prominent beneath his girdle. Proceeding +directly to the market where the Mongols are always gathered, without +leaving his saddle he cried out: + +“Urga is captured by our Mongols and Chiang Chun Baron Ungern! Bogdo +Hutuktu is once more our Khan! Mongols, kill the Chinese and pillage +their shops! Our patience is exhausted!” + +Through the crowd rose the roar of excitement. The rider was surrounded +with a mob of insistent questioners. The old Mongol Sait, Chultun Beyli, +who had been dismissed by the Chinese, was at once informed of this news +and asked to have the messenger brought to him. After questioning the +man he arrested him for inciting the people to riot, but he refused to +turn him over to the Chinese authorities. I was personally with the +Sait at the time and heard his decision in the matter. When the Chinese +Commissioner, Wang Tsao-tsun, threatened the Sait for disobedience to +his authority, the old man simply fingered his rosary and said: + +“I believe the story of this Mongol in its every word and I apprehend +that you and I shall soon have to reverse our relationship.” + +I felt that Wang Tsao-tsun also accepted the correctness of the Mongol’s +story, because he did not insist further. From this moment the Chinese +disappeared from the streets of Uliassutai as though they never had +been, and synchronously the patrols of the Russian officers and of +our foreign colony took their places. The panic among the Chinese was +heightened by the receipt of a letter containing the news that the +Mongols and Altai Tartars under the leadership of the Tartar officer +Kaigorodoff pursued the Chinese who were making off with their booty +from the sack of Kobdo and overtook and annihilated them on the borders +of Sinkiang. Another part of the letter told how General Bakitch and +the six thousand men who had been interned with him by the Chinese +authorities on the River Amyl had received arms and started to join with +Ataman Annenkoff, who had been interned in Kuldja, with the ultimate +intention of linking up with Baron Ungern. This rumour proved to be +wrong because neither Bakitch nor Annenkoff entertained this intention, +because Annenkoff had been transported by the Chinese into the Depths of +Turkestan. However, the news produced veritable stupefaction among the +Chinese. + +Just at this time there arrived at the house of the Bolshevist Russian +colonist Bourdukoff three Bolshevik agents from Irkutsk named Saltikoff, +Freimann and Novak, who started an agitation among the Chinese +authorities to get them to disarm the Russian officers and hand them +over to the Reds. They persuaded the Chinese Chamber of Commerce to +petition the Irkutsk Soviet to send a detachment of Reds to Uliassutai +for the protection of the Chinese against the White detachments. +Freimann brought with him communistic pamphlets in Mongolian and +instructions to begin the reconstruction of the telegraph line to +Irkutsk. Bourdukoff also received some messages from the Bolsheviki. +This quartette developed their policy very successfully and soon +saw Wang Tsao-tsun fall in with their schemes. Once more the days of +expecting a pogrom in Uliassutai returned to us. The Russian officers +anticipated attempts to arrest them. The representative of one of the +American firms went with me to the Commissioner for a parley. We pointed +out to him the illegality of his acts, inasmuch as he was not authorized +by his Government to treat with the Bolsheviki when the Soviet +Government had not been recognized by Peking. Wang Tsao-tsun and his +advisor Fu Hsiang were palpably confused at finding we knew of his +secret meetings with the Bolshevik agents. He assured us that his guard +was sufficient to prevent any such pogrom. It was quite true that his +guard was very capable, as it consisted of well trained and disciplined +soldiers under the command of a serious-minded and well educated +officer; but, what could eighty soldiers do against a mob of three +thousand coolies, one thousand armed merchants and two hundred gamins? +We strongly registered our apprehensions and urged him to avoid any +bloodshed, pointing out that the foreign and Russian population were +determined to defend themselves to the last moment. Wang at once ordered +the establishment of strong guards on the streets and thus made a very +interesting picture with all the Russian, foreign and Chinese patrols +moving up and down throughout the whole town. Then we did not know there +were three hundred more sentinels on duty, the men of Tushegoun Lama +hidden nearby in the mountains. + +Once more the picture changed very sharply and suddenly. The Mongolian +Sait received news through the Lamas of the nearest monastery that +Colonel Kazagrandi, after fighting with the Chinese irregulars, had +captured Van Kure and had formed there Russian-Mongolian brigades of +cavalry, mobilizing the Mongols by the order of the Living Buddha and +the Russians by order of Baron Ungern. A few hours later it became known +that in the large monastery of Dzain the Chinese soldiers had killed the +Russian Captain Barsky and as a result some of the troops of Kazagrandi +attacked and swept the Chinese out of the place. At the taking of Van +Kure the Russians arrested a Korean Communist who was on his way from +Moscow with gold and propaganda to work in Korea and America. Colonel +Kazagrandi sent this Korean with his freight of gold to Baron Ungern. +After receiving this news the chief of the Russian detachment in +Uliassutai arrested all the Bolsheviki agents and passed judgment upon +them and upon the murderers of the Bobroffs. Kanine, Madame Pouzikoff +and Freimann were shot. Regarding Saltikoff and Novak some doubt sprang +up and, moreover, Saltikoff escaped and hid, while Novak, under advice +from Lieutenant Colonel Michailoff, left for the west. The chief of the +Russian detachment gave out orders for the mobilization of the Russian +colonists and openly took Uliassutai under his protection with the tacit +agreement of the Mongolian authorities. The Mongol Sait, Chultun Beyli, +convened a council of the neighboring Mongolian Princes, the soul of +which was the noted Mongolian patriot, Hun Jap Lama. The Princes quickly +formulated their demands upon the Chinese for the complete evacuation of +the territory subject to the Sait Chultun Beyli. Out of it grew parleys, +threats and friction between the various Chinese and Mongolian elements. +Wang Tsao-tsun proposed his scheme of settlement, which some of the +Mongolian Princes accepted; but Jap Lama at the decisive moment threw +the Chinese document to the ground, drew his knife and swore that +he would die by his own hand rather than set it as a seal upon this +treacherous agreement. As a result the Chinese proposals were rejected +and the antagonists began to prepare themselves for the struggle. All +the armed Mongols were summoned from Jassaktu Khan, Sain-Noion Khan and +the dominion of Jahantsi Lama. The Chinese authorities placed their +four machine guns and prepared to defend the fortress. Continuous +deliberations were held by both the Chinese and Mongols. Finally, our +old acquaintance Tzeren came to me as one of the unconcerned foreigners +and handed to me the joint requests of Wang Tsao-tsun and Chultun Beyli +to try to pacify the two elements and to work out a fair agreement +between them. Similar requests were handed to the representative of an +American firm. The following evening we held the first meeting of +the arbitrators and the Chinese and Mongolian representatives. It +was passionate and stormy, so that we foreigners lost all hope of the +success of our mission. However, at midnight when the speakers were +tired, we secured agreement on two points: the Mongols announced that +they did not want to make war and that they desired to settle this +matter in such a way as to retain the friendship of the great Chinese +people; while the Chinese Commissioner acknowledged that China had +violated the treaties by which full independence had been legally +granted to Mongolia. + +These two points formed for us the groundwork of the next meeting and +gave us the starting points for urging reconciliation. The deliberations +continued for three days and finally turned so that we foreigners could +propose our suggestions for an agreement. Its chief provisions were that +the Chinese authorities should surrender administrative powers, return +the arms to the Mongolians, disarm the two hundred gamins and leave +the country; and that the Mongols on their side should give free and +honorable passage of their country to the Commissioner with his armed +guard of eighty men. This Chinese-Mongolian Treaty of Uliassutai was +signed and sealed by the Chinese Commissioners, Wang Tsao-tsun and Fu +Hsiang, by both Mongolian Saits, by Hun Jap Lama and other Princes, +as well as by the Russian and Chinese Presidents of the Chambers of +Commerce and by us foreign arbitrators. The Chinese officials and convoy +began at once to pack up their belongings and prepare for departure. The +Chinese merchants remained in Uliassutai because Sait Chultun Beyli, +now having full authority and power, guaranteed their safety. The day of +departure for the expedition of Wang Tsao-tsun arrived. The camels with +their packs already filled the yamen court-yard and the men only awaited +the arrival of their horses from the plains. Suddenly the news spread +everywhere that the herd of horses had been stolen during the night +and run off toward the south. Of two soldiers that had been sent out to +follow the tracks of the herd only one came back with the news that the +other had been killed. Astonishment spread over the whole town while +among the Chinese it turned to open panic. It perceptibly increased when +some Mongols from a distant ourton to the east came in and announced +that in various places along the post road to Urga they had discovered +the bodies of sixteen of the soldiers whom Wang Tsao-tsun had sent +out with letters for Urga. The mystery of these events will soon be +explained. + +The chief of the Russian detachment received a letter from a Cossack +Colonel, V. N. Domojiroff, containing the order to disarm immediately +the Chinese garrison, to arrest all Chinese officials for transport +to Baron Ungern at Urga, to take control of Uliassutai, by force if +necessary, and to join forces with his detachment. At the very same time +a messenger from the Narabanchi Hutuktu galloped in with a letter to the +effect that a Russian detachment under the leadership of Hun Boldon and +Colonel Domojiroff from Urga had pillaged some Chinese firms and killed +the merchants, had come to the Monastery and demanded horses, food and +shelter. The Hutuktu asked for help because the ferocious conqueror of +Kobdo, Hun Boldon, could very easily pillage the unprotected isolated +monastery. We strongly urged Colonel Michailoff not to violate the +sealed treaty and discountenance all the foreigners and Russians who had +taken part in making it, for this would but be to imitate the Bolshevik +principle of making deceit the leading rule in all acts of state. +This touched Michailoff and he answered Domojiroff that Uliassutai was +already in his hands without a fight; that over the building of the +former Russian Consulate the tri-color flag of Russia was flying; the +gamins had been disarmed but that the other orders could not be carried +out, because their execution would violate the Chinese-Mongolian treaty +just signed in Uliassutai. + +Daily several envoys traveled from Narabanchi Hutuktu to Uliassutai. +The news became more and more disquieting. The Hutuktu reported that Hun +Boldon was mobilizing the Mongolian beggars and horse stealers, arming +and training them; that the soldiers were taking the sheep of the +monastery; that the “Noyon” Domojiroff was always drunk; and that the +protests of the Hutuktu were answered with jeers and scolding. The +messengers gave very indefinite information regarding the strength of +the detachment, some placing it at about thirty while others stated that +Domojiroff said he had eight hundred in all. We could not understand +it at all and soon the messengers ceased coming. All the letters of the +Sait remained unanswered and the envoys did not return. There seemed to +be no doubt that the men had been killed or captured. + +Prince Chultun Beyli determined to go himself. He took with him the +Russian and Chinese Presidents of the Chambers of Commerce and two +Mongolian officers. Three days elapsed without receiving any news +from him whatever. The Mongols began to get worried. Then the Chinese +Commissioner and Hun Jap Lama addressed a request to the foreigner +group to send some one to Narabanchi, in order to try to resolve the +controversy there and to persuade Domojiroff to recognize the treaty and +not permit the “great insult of violation” of a covenant between the two +great peoples. Our group asked me once more to accomplish this mission +pro bono publico. I had assigned me as interpreter a fine young Russian +colonist, the nephew of the murdered Bobroff, a splendid rider as well +as a cool, brave man. Lt.-Colonel Michailoff gave me one of his officers +to accompany me. Supplied with an express tzara for the post horses and +guides, we traveled rapidly over the way which was now familiar to me +to find my old friend, Jelib Djamsrap Huktuktu of Narabanchi. Although +there was deep snow in some places, we made from one hundred to one +hundred and fifteen miles per day. + + +CHAPTER XXVI + +THE BAND OF WHITE HUNGHUTZES + + +We arrived at Narabanchi late at night on the third day out. As we were +approaching, we noticed several riders who, as soon as they had seen us, +galloped quickly back to the monastery. For some time we looked for the +camp of the Russian detachment without finding it. The Mongols led us +into the monastery, where the Hutuktu immediately received me. In his +yurta sat Chultun Beyli. There he presented me with hatyks and said to +me: “The very God has sent you here to us in this difficult moment.” + +It seems Domojiroff had arrested both the Presidents of the Chambers of +Commerce and had threatened to shoot Prince Chultun. Both Domojiroff and +Hun Boldon had no documents legalizing their activities. Chultun Beyli +was preparing to fight with them. + +I asked them to take me to Domojiroff. Through the dark I saw four big +yurtas and two Mongol sentinels with Russian rifles. We entered the +Russian “Noyon’s” tent. A very strange picture was presented to our +eyes. In the middle of the yurta the brazier was burning. In the usual +place for the altar stood a throne, on which the tall, thin, grey-haired +Colonel Domojiroff was seated. He was only in his undergarments and +stockings, was evidently a little drunk and was telling stories. Around +the brazier lay twelve young men in various picturesque poses. My +officer companion reported to Domojiroff about the events in Uliassutai +and during the conversation I asked Domojiroff where his detachment was +encamped. He laughed and answered, with a sweep of his hand: “This is my +detachment.” I pointed out to him that the form of his orders to us in +Uliassutai had led us to believe that he must have a large company with +him. Then I informed him that Lt.-Colonel Michailoff was preparing to +cross swords with the Bolshevik force approaching Uliassutai. + +“What?” he exclaimed with fear and confusion, “the Reds?” + +We spent the night in his yurta and, when I was ready to lie down, my +officer whispered to me: + +“Be sure to keep your revolver handy,” to which I laughed and said: + +“But we are in the center of a White detachment and therefore in perfect +safety!” + +“Uh-huh!” answered my officer and finished the response with one eye +closed. + +The next day I invited Domojiroff to walk with me over the plain, when +I talked very frankly with him about what had been happening. He and Hun +Boldon had received orders from Baron Ungern simply to get into touch +with General Bakitch, but instead they began pillaging Chinese firms +along the route and he had made up his mind to become a great conqueror. +On the way he had run across some of the officers who deserted Colonel +Kazagrandi and formed his present band. I succeeded in persuading +Domojiroff to arrange matters peacefully with Chultun Beyli and not to +violate the treaty. He immediately went ahead to the monastery. As I +returned, I met a tall Mongol with a ferocious face, dressed in a blue +silk outercoat--it was Hun Boldon. He introduced himself and spoke +with me in Russian. I had only time to take off my coat in the tent of +Domojiroff when a Mongol came running to invite me to the yurta of +Hun Boldon. The Prince lived just beside me in a splendid blue yurta. +Knowing the Mongolian custom, I jumped into the saddle and rode the ten +paces to his door. Hun Boldon received me with coldness and pride. + +“Who is he?” he inquired of the interpreter, pointing to me with his +finger. + +I understood his desire to offend me and I answered in the same manner, +thrusting out my finger toward him and turning to the interpreter with +the same question in a slightly more unpleasant tone: + +“Who is he? High Prince and warrior or shepherd and brute?” + +Boldon at once became confused and, with trembling voice and agitation +in his whole manner, blurted out to me that he would not allow me to +interfere in his affairs and would shoot every man who dared to run +counter to his orders. He pounded on the low table with his fist and +then rose up and drew his revolver. But I was much traveled among the +nomads and had studied them thoroughly--Princes, Lamas, shepherds and +brigands. I grasped my whip and, striking it on the table with all my +strength, I said to the interpreter: + +“Tell him that he has the honor to speak with neither Mongol nor Russian +but with a foreigner, a citizen of a great and free state. Tell him he +must first learn to be a man and then he can visit me and we can talk +together.” + +I turned and went out. Ten minutes later Hun Boldon entered my yurta and +offered his apologies. I persuaded him to parley with Chultun Beyli +and not to offend the free Mongol people with his activities. That very +night all was arranged. Hun Boldon dismissed his Mongols and left for +Kobdo, while Domojiroff with his band started for Jassaktu Khan to +arrange for the mobilization of the Mongols there. With the consent of +Chultun Beyli he wrote to Wang Tsao-tsun a demand to disarm his guard, +as all of the Chinese troops in Urga had been so treated; but this +letter arrived after Wang had bought camels to replace the stolen horses +and was on his way to the border. Later Lt.-Colonel Michailoff sent +a detachment of fifty men under the command of Lieutenant Strigine to +overhaul Wang and receive their arms. + + +CHAPTER XXVII + +MYSTERY IN A SMALL TEMPLE + + +Prince Chultun Beyli and I were ready to leave the Narabanchi Kure. +While the Hutuktu was holding service for the Sait in the Temple of +Blessing, I wandered around through the narrow alleyways between the +walls of the houses of the various grades of Lama Gelongs, Getuls, +Chaidje and Rabdjampa; of schools where the learned doctors of theology +or Maramba taught together with the doctors of medicine or Ta Lama; +of the residences for students called Bandi; of stores, archives and +libraries. When I returned to the yurta of the Hutuktu, he was inside. +He presented me with a large hatyk and proposed a walk around the +monastery. His face wore a preoccupied expression from which I gathered +that he had something he wished to discuss with me. As we went out of +the yurta, the liberated President of the Russian Chamber of Commerce +and a Russian officer joined us. The Hutuktu led us to a small building +just back of a bright yellow stone wall. + +“In that building once stopped the Dalai Lama and Bogdo Khan and we +always paint the buildings yellow where these holy persons have lived. +Enter!” + +The interior of the building was arranged with splendor. On the ground +floor was the dining-room, furnished with richly carved, heavy blackwood +Chinese tables and cabinets filled with porcelains and bronze. Above +were two rooms, the first a bed-room hung with heavy yellow silk +curtains; a large Chinese lantern richly set with colored stones hung +by a thin bronze chain from the carved wooden ceiling beam. Here stood +a large square bed covered with silken pillows, mattresses and blankets. +The frame work of the bed was also of the Chinese blackwood and carried, +especially on the posts that held the roof-like canopy, finely executed +carvings with the chief motive the conventional dragon devouring the +sun. By the side stood a chest of drawers completely covered with +carvings setting forth religious pictures. Four comfortable easy chairs +completed the furniture, save for the low oriental throne which stood on +a dais at the end of the room. + +“Do you see this throne?” said the Hutuktu to me. “One night in winter +several horsemen rode into the monastery and demanded that all the +Gelongs and Getuls with the Hutuktu and Kanpo at their head should +congregate in this room. Then one of the strangers mounted the throne, +where he took off his bashlyk or cap-like head covering. All of the +Lamas fell to their knees as they recognized the man who had been long +ago described in the sacred bulls of Dalai Lama, Tashi Lama and Bogdo +Khan. He was the man to whom the whole world belongs and who has +penetrated into all the mysteries of Nature. He pronounced a short +Tibetan prayer, blessed all his hearers and afterwards made predictions +for the coming half century. This was thirty years ago and in the +interim all his prophecies are being fulfilled. During his prayers +before that small shrine in the next room this door opened of its own +accord, the candles and lights before the altar lighted themselves and +the sacred braziers without coals gave forth great streams of incense +that filled the room. And then, without warning, the King of the World +and his companions disappeared from among us. Behind him remained no +trace save the folds in the silken throne coverings which smoothed +themselves out and left the throne as though no one had sat upon it.” + +The Hutuktu entered the shrine, kneeled down, covering his eyes with his +hands, and began to pray. I looked at the calm, indifferent face of the +golden Buddha, over which the flickering lamps threw changing shadows, +and then turned my eyes to the side of the throne. It was wonderful and +difficult to believe but I really saw there the strong, muscular figure +of a man with a swarthy face of stern and fixed expression about the +mouth and jaws, thrown into high relief by the brightness of the eyes. +Through his transparent body draped in white raiment I saw the Tibetan +inscriptions on the back of the throne. I closed my eyes and opened +them again. No one was there but the silk throne covering seemed to be +moving. + +“Nervousness,” I thought. “Abnormal and over-emphasized +impressionability growing out of the unusual surroundings and strains.” + +The Hutuktu turned to me and said: “Give me your hatyk. I have the +feeling that you are troubled about those whom you love, and I want +to pray for them. And you must pray also, importune God and direct the +sight of your soul to the King of the World who was here and sanctified +this place.” + +The Hutuktu placed the hatyk on the shoulder of the Buddha and, +prostrating himself on the carpet before the altar, whispered the words +of prayer. Then he raised his head and beckoned me to him with a slight +movement of his hand. + +“Look at the dark space behind the statue of Buddha and he will show +your beloved to you.” + +Readily obeying his deep-voiced command, I began to look into the dark +niche behind the figure of the Buddha. Soon out of the darkness began to +appear streams of smoke or transparent threads. They floated in the air, +becoming more and more dense and increasing in number, until gradually +they formed the bodies of several persons and the outlines of various +objects. I saw a room that was strange to me with my family there, +surrounded by some whom I knew and others whom I did not. I recognized +even the dress my wife wore. Every line of her dear face was clearly +visible. Gradually the vision became too dark, dissipated itself into +the streams of smoke and transparent threads and disappeared. Behind the +golden Buddha was nothing but the darkness. The Hutuktu arose, took my +hatyk from the shoulder of the Buddha and handed it to me with these +words: + +“Fortune is always with you and with your family. God’s goodness will +not forsake you.” + +We left the building of this unknown King of the World, where he had +prayed for all mankind and had predicted the fate of peoples and states. +I was greatly astonished to find that my companions had also seen my +vision and to hear them describe to me in minute detail the appearance +and the clothes of the persons whom I had seen in the dark niche behind +the head of Buddha.* + + * In order that I might have the evidence of others on this + extraordinarily impressive vision, I asked them to make + protocols or affidavits concerning what they saw. This they + did and I now have these statements in my possession. + +The Mongol officer also told me that Chultun Beyli had the day before +asked the Hutuktu to reveal to him his fate in this important juncture +of his life and in this crisis of his country but the Hutuktu only waved +his hand in an expression of fear and refused. When I asked the Hutuktu +for the reason of his refusal, suggesting to him that it might calm and +help Chultun Beyli as the vision of my beloved had strengthened me, the +Hutuktu knitted his brow and answered: + +“No! The vision would not please the Prince. His fate is black. +Yesterday I thrice sought his fortune on the burned shoulder blades and +with the entrails of sheep and each time came to the same dire result, +the same dire result! . . .” + +He did not really finish speaking but covered his face with his hands +in fear. He was convinced that the lot of Chultun Beyli was black as the +night. + +In an hour we were behind the low hills that hid the Narabanchi Kure +from our sight. + + +CHAPTER XXVIII + +THE BREATH OF DEATH + + +We arrived at Uliassutai on the day of the return of the detachment +which had gone out to disarm the convoy of Wang Tsao-tsun. This +detachment had met Colonel Domojiroff, who ordered them not only to +disarm but to pillage the convoy and, unfortunately, Lieutenant Strigine +executed this illegal and unwarranted command. It was compromising and +ignominious to see Russian officers and soldiers wearing the Chinese +overcoats, boots and wrist watches which had been taken from the Chinese +officials and the convoy. Everyone had Chinese silver and gold also from +the loot. The Mongol wife of Wang Tsao-tsun and her brother returned +with the detachment and entered a complaint of having been robbed by +the Russians. The Chinese officials and their convoy, deprived of their +supplies, reached the Chinese border only after great distress +from hunger and cold. We foreigners were astounded that Lt.-Colonel +Michailoff received Strigine with military honors but we caught the +explanation of it later when we learned that Michailoff had been given +some of the Chinese silver and his wife the handsomely decorated saddle +of Fu Hsiang. Chultun Beyli demanded that all the weapons taken from the +Chinese and all the stolen property be turned over to him, as it must +later be returned to the Chinese authorities; but Michailoff refused. +Afterwards we foreigners cut off all contact with the Russian +detachment. The relations between the Russians and Mongols became very +strained. Several of the Russian officers protested against the acts of +Michailoff and Strigine and controversies became more and more serious. + +At this time, one morning in April, an extraordinary group of armed +horsemen arrived at Uliassutai. They stayed at the house of the +Bolshevik Bourdukoff, who gave them, so we were told, a great quantity +of silver. This group explained that they were former officers in the +Imperial Guard. They were Colonels Poletika, N. N. Philipoff and three +of the latter’s brothers. They announced that they wanted to collect all +the White officers and soldiers then in Mongolia and China and lead them +to Urianhai to fight the Bolsheviki; but that first they wanted to wipe +out Ungern and return Mongolia to China. They called themselves the +representatives of the Central Organization of the Whites in Russia. + +The society of Russian officers in Uliassutai invited them to a meeting, +examined their documents and interrogated them. Investigation proved +that all the statements of these officers about their former connections +were entirely wrong, that Poletika occupied an important position in the +war commissariat of the Bolsheviki, that one of the Philipoff brothers +was the assistant of Kameneff in his first attempt to reach England, +that the Central White Organization in Russia did not exist, that the +proposed fighting in Urianhai was but a trap for the White officers and +that this group was in close relations with the Bolshevik Bourdukoff. + +A discussion at once sprang up among the officers as to what they +should do with this group, which split the detachment into two distinct +parties. Lt.-Colonel Michailoff with several officers joined themselves +to Poletika’s group just as Colonel Domojiroff arrived with his +detachment. He began to get in touch with both factions and to feel out +the politics of the situation, finally appointing Poletika to the post +of Commandant of Uliassutai and sending to Baron Ungern a full report +of the events in the town. In this document he devoted much space to me, +accusing me of standing in the way of the execution of his orders. His +officers watched me continuously. From different quarters I received +warnings to take great care. This band and its leader openly demanded +to know what right this foreigner had to interfere in the affairs of +Mongolia, one of Domojiroff’s officers directly giving me the challenge +in a meeting in the attempt to provoke a controversy. I quietly answered +him: + +“And on what basis do the Russian refugees interfere, they who have +rights neither at home nor abroad?” + +The officer made no verbal reply but in his eyes burned a definite +answer. My huge friend who sat beside me noticed this, strode over +toward him and, towering over him, stretched his arms and hands as +though just waking from sleep and remarked: “I’m looking for a little +boxing exercise.” + +On one occasion Domojiroff’s men would have succeeded in taking me if I +had not been saved by the watchfulness of our foreign group. I had gone +to the fortress to negotiate with the Mongol Sait for the departure of +the foreigners from Uliassutai. Chultun Beyli detained me for a long +time, so that I was forced to return about nine in the evening. My horse +was walking. Half a mile from the town three men sprang up out of the +ditch and ran at me. I whipped up my horse but noticed several more men +coming out of the other ditch as though to head me off. They, however, +made for the other group and captured them and I heard the voice of a +foreigner calling me back. There I found three of Domojiroff’s officers +surrounded by the Polish soldiers and other foreigners under the +leadership of my old trusted agronome, who was occupied with tying the +hands of the officers behind their backs so strongly that the bones +cracked. Ending his work and still smoking his perpetual pipe, he +announced in a serious and important manner: “I think it best to throw +them into the river.” + +Laughing at his seriousness and the fear of Domojiroff’s officers, I +asked them why they had started to attack me. They dropped their eyes +and were silent. It was an eloquent silence and we perfectly understood +what they had proposed to do. They had revolvers hidden in their +pockets. + +“Fine!” I said. “All is perfectly clear. I shall release you but you +must report to your sender that he will not welcome you back the next +time. Your weapons I shall hand to the Commandant of Uliassutai.” + +My friend, using his former terrifying care, began to untie them, +repeating over and over: “And I would have fed you to the fishes in the +river!” Then we all returned to the town, leaving them to go their way. + +Domojiroff continued to send envoys to Baron Ungern at Urga with +requests for plenary powers and money and with reports about Michailoff, +Chultun Beyli, Poletika, Philipoff and myself. With Asiatic cunning +he was then maintaining good relations with all those for whom he was +preparing death at the hands of the severe warrior, Baron Ungern, +who was receiving only one-sided reports about all the happenings in +Uliassutai. Our whole colony was greatly agitated. The officers split +into different parties; the soldiers collected in groups and discussed +the events of the day, criticising their chiefs, and under the influence +of some of Domojiroff’s men began making such statements as: + +“We have now seven Colonels, who all want to be in command and are all +quarreling among themselves. They all ought to be pegged down and given +good sound thrashings. The one who could take the greatest number of +blows ought to be chosen as our chief.” + +It was an ominous joke that proved the demoralization of the Russian +detachment. + +“It seems,” my friend frequently observed, “that we shall soon have the +pleasure of seeing a Council of Soldiers here in Uliassutai. God and +the Devil! One thing here is very unfortunate--there are no forests +near into which good Christian men may dive and get away from all these +cursed Soviets. It’s bare, frightfully bare, this wretched Mongolia, +with no place for us to hide.” + +Really this possibility of the Soviet was approaching. On one occasion +the soldiers captured the arsenal containing the weapons surrendered +by the Chinese and carried them off to their barracks. Drunkenness, +gambling and fighting increased. We foreigners, carefully watching +events and in fear of a catastrophe, finally decided to leave +Uliassutai, that caldron of passions, controversies and denunciations. +We heard that the group of Poletika was also preparing to get out a few +days later. We foreigners separated into two parties, one traveling by +the old caravan route across the Gobi considerably to the south of Urga +to Kuku-Hoto or Kweihuacheng and Kalgan, and mine, consisting of my +friend, two Polish soldiers and myself, heading for Urga via Zain Shabi, +where Colonel Kazagrandi had asked me in a recent letter to meet him. +Thus we left the Uliassutai where we had lived through so many exciting +events. + +On the sixth day after our departure there arrived in the town the +Mongol-Buriat detachment under the command of the Buriat Vandaloff and +the Russian Captain Bezrodnoff. Afterwards I met them in Zain Shabi. It +was a detachment sent out from Urga by Baron Ungern to restore order +in Uliassutai and to march on to Kobdo. On the way from Zain Shabi +Bezrodnoff came across the group of Poletika and Michailoff. He +instituted a search which disclosed suspicious documents in their +baggage and in that of Michailoff and his wife the silver and other +possessions taken from the Chinese. From this group of sixteen he sent +N. N. Philipoff to Baron Ungern, released three others and shot the +remaining twelve. Thus ended in Zain Shabi the life of one party of +Uliassutai refugees and the activities of the group of Poletika. In +Uliassutai Bezrodnoff shot Chultun Beyli for the violation of the treaty +with the Chinese, and also some Bolshevist Russian colonists; arrested +Domojiroff and sent him to Urga; and . . . restored order. The +predictions about Chultun Beyli were fulfilled. + +I knew of Domojiroff’s reports regarding myself but I decided, +nevertheless, to proceed to Urga and not to swing round it, as Poletika +had started to do when he was accidentally captured by Bezrodnoff. I was +accustomed now to looking into the eyes of danger and I set out to meet +the terrible “bloody Baron.” No one can decide his own fate. I did not +think myself in the wrong and the feeling of fear had long since ceased +to occupy a place in my menage. On the way a Mongol rider who overhauled +us brought the news of the death of our acquaintances at Zain Shabi. He +spent the night with me in the yurta at the ourton and related to me the +following legend of death. + +“It was a long time ago when the Mongolians ruled over China. The +Prince of Uliassutai, Beltis Van, was mad. He executed any one he wished +without trial and no one dared to pass through his town. All the other +Princes and rich Mongols surrounded Uliassutai, where Beltis raged, +cut off communication on every road and allowed none to pass in or out. +Famine developed in the town. They consumed all the oxen, sheep and +horses and finally Beltis Van determined to make a dash with his +soldiers through to the west to the land of one of his tribes, the +Olets. He and his men all perished in the fight. The Princes, following +the advice of the Hutuktu Buyantu, buried the dead on the slopes of the +mountains surrounding Uliassutai. They buried them with incantations and +exorcisings in order that Death by Violence might be kept from a further +visitation to their land. The tombs were covered with heavy stones and +the Hutuktu predicted that the bad demon of Death by Violence would +only leave the earth when the blood of a man should be spilled upon the +covering stone. Such a legend lived among us. Now it is fulfilled. The +Russians shot there three Bolsheviki and the Chinese two Mongols. The +evil spirit of Beltis Van broke loose from beneath the heavy stone and +now mows down the people with his scythe. The noble Chultun Beyli has +perished; the Russian Noyon Michailoff also has fallen; and death has +flowed out from Uliassutai all over our boundless plains. Who shall be +able to stem it now? Who shall tie the ferocious hands? An evil time has +fallen upon the Gods and the Good Spirits. The Evil Demons have made war +upon the Good Spirits. What can man now do? Only perish, only +perish. . . .” + + + + +Part III + +THE STRAINING HEART OF ASIA + + +CHAPTER XXIX + +ON THE ROAD OF GREAT CONQUERORS + + +The great conqueror, Jenghiz Khan, the son of sad, stern, severe +Mongolia, according to an old Mongolian legend “mounted to the top of +Karasu Togol and with his eyes of an eagle looked to the west and the +east. In the west he saw whole seas of human blood over which floated +a bloody fog that blanketed all the horizon. There he could not discern +his fate. But the gods ordered him to proceed to the west, leading with +him all his warriors and Mongolian tribes. To the east he saw wealthy +towns, shining temples, crowds of happy people, gardens and fields of +rich earth, all of which pleased the great Mongol. He said to his sons: +‘There in the west I shall be fire and sword, destroyer, avenging +Fate; in the east I shall come as the merciful, great builder, bringing +happiness to the people and to the land.’” + +Thus runs the legend. I found much of truth in it. I had passed over +much of his road to the west and always identified it by the old tombs +and the impertinent monuments of stone to the merciless conqueror. I saw +also a part of the eastern road of the hero, over which he traveled to +China. Once when we were making a trip out of Uliassutai we stopped the +night in Djirgalantu. The old host of the ourton, knowing me from my +previous trip to Narabanchi, welcomed us very kindly and regaled us with +stories during our evening meal. Among other things he led us out of the +yurta and pointed out a mountain peak brightly lighted by the full moon +and recounted to us the story of one of the sons of Jenghiz, afterwards +Emperor of China, Indo-China and Mongolia, who had been attracted by the +beautiful scenery and grazing lands of Djirgalantu and had founded here +a town. This was soon left without inhabitants, for the Mongol is a +nomad who cannot live in artificial cities. The plain is his house and +the world his town. For a time this town witnessed battles between the +Chinese and the troops of Jenghiz Khan but afterwards it was forgotten. +At present there remains only a half-ruined tower, from which in the +early days the heavy rocks were hurled down upon the heads of the +enemy, and the dilapidated gate of Kublai, the grandson of Jenghiz Khan. +Against the greenish sky drenched with the rays of the moon stood out +the jagged line of the mountains and the black silhouette of the tower +with its loopholes, through which the alternate scudding clouds and +light flashed. + +When our party left Uliassutai, we traveled on leisurely, making +thirty-five to fifty miles a day until we were within sixty miles of +Zain Shabi, where I took leave of the others to go south to this place +in order to keep my engagement with Colonel Kazagrandi. The sun had just +risen as my single Mongol guide and I without any pack animals began to +ascend the low, timbered ridges, from the top of which I caught the last +glimpses of my companions disappearing down the valley. I had no idea +then of the many and almost fatal dangers which I should have to pass +through during this trip by myself, which was destined to prove much +longer than I had anticipated. As we were crossing a small river with +sandy shores, my Mongol guide told me how the Mongolians came there +during the summer to wash gold, in spite of the prohibitions of the +Lamas. The manner of working the placer was very primitive but the +results testified clearly to the richness of these sands. The Mongol +lies flat on the ground, brushes the sand aside with a feather and keeps +blowing into the little excavation so formed. From time to time he wets +his finger and picks up on it a small bit of grain gold or a diminutive +nugget and drops these into a little bag hanging under his chin. In such +manner this primitive dredge wins about a quarter of an ounce or five +dollars’ worth of the yellow metal per day. + +I determined to make the whole distance to Zain Shabi in a single day. +At the ourtons I hurried them through the catching and saddling of the +horses as fast as I could. At one of these stations about twenty-five +miles from the monastery the Mongols gave me a wild horse, a big, strong +white stallion. Just as I was about to mount him and had already touched +my foot to the stirrup, he jumped and kicked me right on the leg which +had been wounded in the Ma-chu fight. The leg soon began to swell and +ache. At sunset I made out the first Russian and Chinese buildings +and later the monastery at Zain. We dropped into the valley of a small +stream which flowed along a mountain on whose peak were set white rocks +forming the words of a Tibetan prayer. At the bottom of this mountain +was a cemetery for the Lamas, that is, piles of bones and a pack +of dogs. At last the monastery lay right below us, a common square +surrounded with wooden fences. In the middle rose a large temple quite +different from all those of western Mongolia, not in the Chinese but in +the Tibetan style of architecture, a white building with perpendicular +walls and regular rows of windows in black frames, with a roof of black +tiles and with a most unusual damp course laid between the stone walls +and the roof timbers and made of bundles of twigs from a Tibetan tree +which never rots. Another small quadrangle lay a little to the east and +contained Russian buildings connected with the monastery by telephone. + +“That is the house of the Living God of Zain,” the Mongol explained, +pointing to this smaller quadrangle. “He likes Russian customs and +manners.” + +To the north on a conical-shaped hill rose a tower that recalled the +Babylonian zikkurat. It was the temple where the ancient books and +manuscripts were kept and the broken ornaments and objects used in +the religious ceremonies together with the robes of deceased Hutuktus +preserved. A sheer cliff rose behind this museum, which it was +impossible for one to climb. On the face of this were carved images of +the Lamaite gods, scattered about without any special order. They were +from one to two and a half metres high. At night the monks lighted +lamps before them, so that one could see these images of the gods and +goddesses from far away. + +We entered the trading settlement. The streets were deserted and from +the windows only women and children looked out. I stopped with a Russian +firm whose other branches I had known throughout the country. Much to my +astonishment they welcomed me as an acquaintance. It appeared that +the Hutuktu of Narabanchi had sent word to all the monasteries that, +whenever I should come, they must all render me aid, inasmuch as I +had saved the Narabanchi Monastery and, by the clear signs of the +divinations, I was an incarnate Buddha beloved of the Gods. This letter +of this kindly disposed Hutuktu helped me very much--perhaps I should +even say more, that it saved me from death. The hospitality of my hosts +proved of great and much needed assistance to me because my injured leg +had swelled and was aching severely. When I took off my boot, I found +my foot all covered with blood and my old wound re-opened by the blow. A +felcher was called to assist me with treatment and bandaging, so that I +was able to walk again three days later. + +I did not find Colonel Kazagrandi at Zain Shabi. After destroying the +Chinese gamins who had killed the local Commandant, he had returned via +Van Kure. The new Commandment handed me the letter of Kazagrandi, who +very cordially asked me to visit him after I had rested in Zain. A +Mongolian document was enclosed in the letter giving me the right to +receive horses and carts from herd to herd by means of the “urga,” which +I shall later describe and which opened for me an entirely new vista of +Mongolian life and country that I should otherwise never have seen. The +making of this journey of over two hundred miles was a very disagreeable +task for me; but evidently Kazagrandi, whom I had never met, had serious +reasons for wishing this meeting. + +At one o’clock the day after my arrival I was visited by the local +“Very God,” Gheghen Pandita Hutuktu. A more strange and extraordinary +appearance of a god I could not imagine. He was a short, thin young man +of twenty or twenty-two years with quick, nervous movements and with an +expressive face lighted and dominated, like the countenances of all the +Mongol gods, by large, frightened eyes. He was dressed in a blue silk +Russian uniform with yellow epaulets with the sacred sign of Pandita +Hutuktu, in blue silk trousers and high boots, all surmounted by a white +Astrakhan cap with a yellow pointed top. At his girdle a revolver and +sword were slung. I did not know quite what to think of this disguised +god. He took a cup of tea from the host and began to talk with a mixture +of Mongolian and Russian. + +“Not far from my Kure is located the ancient monastery of Erdeni Dzu, +erected on the site of the ruins of Karakorum, the ancient capital +of Jenghiz Khan and afterwards frequently visited by Kublai Kahn for +sanctuary and rest after his labors as Emperor of China, India, Persia, +Afghanistan, Mongolia and half of Europe. Now only ruins and tombs +remain to mark this former ‘Garden of Beatific Days.’ The pious monks of +Baroun Kure found in the underground chambers of the ruins manuscripts +that were much older than Erdeni Dzu itself. In these my Maramba +Meetchik-Atak found the prediction that the Hutuktu of Zain who should +carry the title of ‘Pandita,’ should be but twenty-one years of age, be +born in the heart of the lands of Jenghiz Khan and have on his chest +the natural sign of the swastika--such Hutuktu would be honored by the +people in the days of a great war and trouble, would begin the fight +with the servants of Red evil and would conquer them and bring order +into the universe, celebrating this happy day in the city with white +temples and with the songs of ten thousand bells. It is I, Pandita +Hutuktu! The signs and symbols have met in me. I shall destroy the +Bolsheviki, the bad ‘servants of the Red evil,’ and in Moscow I shall +rest from my glorious and great work. Therefore I have asked Colonel +Kazagrandi to enlist me in the troops of Baron Ungern and give me the +chance to fight. The Lamas seek to prevent me from going but who is the +god here?” + +He very sternly stamped his foot, while the Lamas and guard who +accompanied him reverently bowed their heads. + +As he left he presented me with a hatyk and, rummaging through my saddle +bags, I found a single article that might be considered worthy as a +gift for a Hutuktu, a small bottle of osmiridium, this rare, natural +concomitant of platinum. + +“This is the most stable and hardest of metals,” I said. “Let it be the +sign of your glory and strength, Hutuktu!” + +The Pandita thanked me and invited me to visit him. When I had recovered +a little, I went to his house, which was arranged in European style: +electric lights, push bells and telephone. He feasted me with wine and +sweets and introduced me to two very interesting personages, one an old +Tibetan surgeon with a face deeply pitted by smallpox, a heavy thick +nose and crossed eyes. He was a peculiar surgeon, consecrated in Tibet. +His duties consisted in treating and curing Hutuktus when they were +ill and . . . in poisoning them when they became too independent or +extravagant or when their policies were not in accord with the wishes +of the Council of Lamas of the Living Buddha or the Dalai Lama. By +now Pandita Hutuktu probably rests in eternal peace on the top of some +sacred mountain, sent thither by the solicitude of his extraordinary +court physician. The martial spirit of Pandita Hutuktu was very +unwelcome to the Council of Lamas, who protested against the +adventuresomeness of this “Living God.” + +Pandita liked wine and cards. One day when he was in the company of +Russians and dressed in a European suit, some Lamas came running to +announce that divine service had begun and that the “Living God” must +take his place on the altar to be prayed to but he had gone out from his +abode and was playing cards! Without any confusion Pandita drew his red +mantle of the Hutuktu over his European coat and long grey trousers and +allowed the shocked Lamas to carry their “God” away in his palanquin. + +Besides the surgeon-poisoner I met at the Hutuktu’s a lad of thirteen +years, whose youthfulness, red robe and cropped hair led me to suppose +he was a Bandi or student servant in the home of the Hutuktu; but it +turned out otherwise. This boy was the first Hubilgan, also an incarnate +Buddha, an artful teller of fortunes and the successor of Pandita +Hutuktu. He was drunk all the time and a great card player, always +making side-splitting jokes that greatly offended the Lamas. + +That same evening I made the acquaintance of the second Hubilgan +who called on me, the real administrator of Zain Shabi, which is +an independent dominion subject directly to the Living Buddha. This +Hubilgan was a serious and ascetic man of thirty-two, well educated and +deeply learned in Mongol lore. He knew Russian and read much in that +language, being interested chiefly in the life and stories of other +peoples. He had a high respect for the creative genius of the American +people and said to me: + +“When you go to America, ask the Americans to come to us and lead us out +from the darkness that surrounds us. The Chinese and Russians will lead +us to destruction and only the Americans can save us.” + +It is a deep satisfaction for me to carry out the request of this +influential Mongol, Hubilgan, and to urge his appeal to the American +people. Will you not save this honest, uncorrupted but dark, deceived +and oppressed people? They should not be allowed to perish, for within +their souls they carry a great store of strong moral forces. Make of +them a cultured people, believing in the verity of humankind; teach them +to use the wealth of their land; and the ancient people of Jenghiz Khan +will ever be your faithful friends. + +When I had sufficiently recovered, the Hutuktu invited me to travel with +him to Erdeni Dzu, to which I willingly agreed. On the following morning +a light and comfortable carriage was brought for me. Our trip lasted +five days, during which we visited Erdeni Dzu, Karakorum, Hoto-Zaidam +and Hara-Balgasun. All these are the ruins of monasteries and cities +erected by Jenghiz Khan and his successors, Ugadai Khan and Kublai +in the thirteenth century. Now only the remnants of walls and towers +remain, some large tombs and whole books of legends and stories. + +“Look at these tombs!” said the Hutuktu to me. “Here the son of Khan +Uyuk was buried. This young prince was bribed by the Chinese to kill his +father but was frustrated in his attempt by his own sister, who killed +him in her watchful care of her old father, the Emperor and Khan. There +is the tomb of Tsinilla, the beloved spouse of Khan Mangu. She left the +capital of China to go to Khara Bolgasun, where she fell in love with +the brave shepherd Damcharen, who overtook the wind on his steed and +who captured wild yaks and horses with his bare hands. The enraged Khan +ordered his unfaithful wife strangled but afterwards buried her with +imperial honors and frequently came to her tomb to weep for his lost +love.” + +“And what happened to Damcharen?” I inquired. + +The Hutuktu himself did not know; but his old servant, the real archive +of legends, answered: + +“With the aid of ferocious Chahar brigands he fought with China for a +long time. It is, however, unknown how he died.” + +Among the ruins the monks pray at certain fixed times and they also +search for sacred books and objects concealed or buried in the debris. +Recently they found here two Chinese rifles and two gold rings and big +bundles of old manuscripts tied with leather thongs. + +“Why did this region attract the powerful emperors and Khans who ruled +from the Pacific to the Adriatic?” I asked myself. Certainly not these +mountains and valleys covered with larch and birch, not these vast +sands, receding lakes and barren rocks. It seems that I found the +answer. + +The great emperors, remembering the vision of Jenghiz Khan, sought here +new revelations and predictions of his miraculous, majestic destiny, +surrounded by the divine honors, obeisance and hate. Where could they +come into touch with the gods, the good and bad spirits? Only there +where they abode. All the district of Zain with these ancient ruins is +just such a place. + +“On this mountain only such men can ascend as are born of the direct +line of Jenghiz Khan,” the Pandita explained to me. “Half way up the +ordinary man suffocates and dies, if he ventures to go further. Recently +Mongolian hunters chased a pack of wolves up this mountain and, when +they came to this part of the mountainside, they all perished. There on +the slopes of the mountain lie the bones of eagles, big horned sheep and +the kabarga antelope, light and swift as the wind. There dwells the bad +demon who possesses the book of human destinies.” + +“This is the answer,” I thought. + +In the Western Caucasus I once saw a mountain between Soukhoum Kale and +Tuopsei where wolves, eagles and wild goats also perish, and where men +would likewise perish if they did not go on horseback through this zone. +There the earth breathes out carbonic acid gas through holes in the +mountainside, killing all animal life. The gas clings to the earth in a +layer about half a metre thick. Men on horseback pass above this and the +horses always hold their heads way up and snuff and whinny in fear until +they cross the dangerous zone. Here on the top of this mountain +where the bad demon peruses the book of human destinies is the same +phenomenon, and I realized the sacred fear of the Mongols as well as the +stern attraction of this place for the tall, almost gigantic descendants +of Jenghiz Khan. Their heads tower above the layers of poisonous gas, +so that they can reach the top of this mysterious and terrible mountain. +Also it is possible to explain this phenomenon geologically, because +here in this region is the southern edge of the coal deposits which are +the source of carbonic acid and swamp gases. + +Not far from the ruins in the lands of Hun Doptchin Djamtso there is +a small lake which sometimes burns with a red flame, terrifying the +Mongols and herds of horses. Naturally this lake is rich with legends. +Here a meteor formerly fell and sank far into the earth. In the hole +this lake appeared. Now, it seems, the inhabitants of the subterranean +passages, semi-man and semi-demon, are laboring to extract this “stone +of the sky” from its deep bed and it is setting the water on fire as it +rises and falls back in spite of their every effort. I did not see the +lake myself but a Russian colonist told me that it may be petroleum on +the lake that is fired either from the campfires of the shepherds or by +the blazing rays of the sun. + +At any rate all this makes it very easy to understand the attractions +for the great Mongol potentates. The strongest impression was produced +upon me by Karakorum, the place where the cruel and wise Jenghiz Khan +lived and laid his gigantic plans for overrunning all the west with +blood and for covering the east with a glory never before seen. Two +Karakorums were erected by Jenghiz Khan, one here near Tatsa Gol on the +Caravan Road and the other in Pamir, where the sad warriors buried the +greatest of human conquerors in the mausoleum built by five hundred +captives who were sacrificed to the spirit of the deceased when their +work was done. + +The warlike Pandita Hutuktu prayed on the ruins where the shades of +these potentates who had ruled half the world wandered, and his soul +longed for the chimerical exploits and for the glory of Jenghiz and +Tamerlane. + +On the return journey we were invited not far from Zain to visit a very +rich Mongol by the way. He had already prepared the yurtas suitable for +Princes, ornamented with rich carpets and silk draperies. The Hutuktu +accepted. We arranged ourselves on the soft pillows in the yurtas as the +Hutuktu blessed the Mongol, touching his head with his holy hand, and +received the hatyks. The host then had a whole sheep brought in to us, +boiled in a huge vessel. The Hutuktu carved off one hind leg and offered +it to me, while he reserved the other for himself. After this he gave a +large piece of meat to the smallest son of the host, which was the sign +that Pandita Hutuktu invited all to begin the feast. In a trice the +sheep was entirely carved or torn up and in the hands of the banqueters. +When the Hutuktu had thrown down by the brazier the white bones without +a trace of meat left on them, the host on his knees withdrew from the +fire a piece of sheepskin and ceremoniously offered it on both his hands +to the Hutuktu. Pandita began to clean off the wool and ashes with his +knife and, cutting it into thin strips, fell to eating this really tasty +course. It is the covering from just above the breast bone and is called +in Mongolian tarach or “arrow.” When a sheep is skinned, this small +section is cut out and placed on the hot coals, where it is broiled very +slowly. Thus prepared it is considered the most dainty bit of the +whole animal and is always presented to the guest of honor. It is +not permissible to divide it, such is the strength of the custom and +ceremony. + +After dinner our host proposed a hunt for bighorns, a large herd of +which was known to graze in the mountains within less than a mile from +the yurtas. Horses with rich saddles and bridles were led up. All the +elaborate harness of the Hutuktu’s mount was ornamented with red and +yellow bits of cloth as a mark of his rank. About fifty Mongol riders +galloped behind us. When we left our horses, we were placed behind +the rocks roughly three hundred paces apart and the Mongols began the +encircling movement around the mountain. After about half an hour I +noticed way up among the rocks something flash and soon made out a fine +bighorn jumping with tremendous springs from rock to rock, and behind +him a herd of some twenty odd head leaping like lightning over the +ground. I was vexed beyond words when it appeared that the Mongols had +made a mess of it and pushed the herd out to the side before having +completed their circle. But happily I was mistaken. Behind a rock right +ahead of the herd a Mongol sprang up and waved his hands. Only the big +leader was not frightened and kept right on past the unarmed Mongol +while all the rest of the herd swung suddenly round and rushed right +down upon me. I opened fire and dropped two of them. The Hutuktu also +brought down one as well as a musk antelope that came unexpectedly from +behind a rock hard by. The largest pair of horns weighed about thirty +pounds, but they were from a young sheep. + +The day following our return to Zain Shabi, as I was feeling quite +recovered, I decided to go on to Van Kure. At my leave-taking from +the Hutuktu I received a large hatyk from him together with warmest +expressions of thanks for the present I had given him on the first day +of our acquaintance. + +“It is a fine medicine!” he exclaimed. “After our trip I felt quite +exhausted but I took your medicine and am now quite rejuvenated. Many, +many thanks!” + +The poor chap had swallowed my osmiridium. To be sure it could not +harm him; but to have helped him was wonderful. Perhaps doctors in the +Occident may wish to try this new, harmless and very cheap remedy--only +eight pounds of it in the whole world--and I merely ask that they leave +me the patent rights for it for Mongolia, Barga, Sinkiang, Koko Nor and +all the other lands of Central Asia. + +An old Russian colonist went as guide for me. They gave me a big but +light and comfortable cart hitched and drawn in a marvelous way. A +straight pole four metres long was fastened athwart the front of the +shafts. On either side two riders took this pole across their saddle +pommels and galloped away with me across the plains. Behind us galloped +four other riders with four extra horses. + + +CHAPTER XXX + +ARRESTED! + + +About twelve miles from Zain we saw from a ridge a snakelike line of +riders crossing the valley, which detachment we met half an hour later +on the shore of a deep, swampy stream. The group consisted of Mongols, +Buriats and Tibetans armed with Russian rifles. At the head of the +column were two men, one of whom in a huge black Astrakhan and black +felt cape with red Caucasian cowl on his shoulders blocked my road and, +in a coarse, harsh voice, demanded of me: “Who are you, where are you +from and where are you going?” + +I gave also a laconic answer. They then said that they were a detachment +of troops from Baron Ungern under the command of Captain Vandaloff. “I +am Captain Bezrodnoff, military judge.” + +Suddenly he laughed loudly. His insolent, stupid face did not please me +and, bowing to the officers, I ordered my riders to move. + +“Oh no!” he remonstrated, as he blocked the road again. “I cannot allow +you to go farther. I want to have a long and serious conversation with +you and you will have to come back to Zain for it.” + +I protested and called attention to the letter of Colonel Kazagrandi, +only to hear Bezrodnoff answer with coldness: + +“This letter is a matter of Colonel Kazagrandi’s and to bring you back +to Zain and talk with you is my affair. Now give me your weapon.” + +But I could not yield to this demand, even though death were threatened. + +“Listen,” I said. “Tell me frankly. Is yours really a detachment +fighting against the Boisheviki or is it a Red contingent?” + +“No, I assure you!” replied the Buriat officer Vandaloff, approaching +me. “We have already been fighting the Bolsheviki for three years.” + +“Then I cannot hand you my weapon,” I calmly replied. “I brought it from +Soviet Siberia, have had many fights with this faithful weapon and now +I am to be disarmed by White officers! It is an offence that I cannot +allow.” + +With these words I threw my rifle and my Mauser into the stream. The +officers were confused. Bezrodnoff turned red with anger. + +“I freed you and myself from humiliation,” I explained. + +Bezrodnoff in silence turned his horse, the whole detachment of three +hundred men passed immediately before me and only the last two riders +stopped, ordered my Mongols to turn my cart round and then fell in +behind my little group. So I was arrested! One of the horsemen behind me +was a Russian and he told me that Bezrodnoff carried with him many death +decrees. I was sure that mine was among them. + +Stupid, very stupid! What was the use of fighting one’s way through Red +detachments, of being frozen and hungry, of almost perishing in Tibet +only to die from a bullet of one of Bezrodnoff’s Mongols? For such a +pleasure it was not worth while to travel so long and so far! In every +Siberian “Cheka” I could have had this end so joyfully accorded me. + +When we arrived at Zain Shabi, my luggage was examined and Bezrodnoff +began to question me in minutest detail about the events in Uliassutai. +We talked about three hours, during which I tried to defend all the +officers of Uliassutai, maintaining that one must not trust only the +reports of Domojiroff. When our conversation was finished, the Captain +stood up and offered his apologies for detaining me in my journey. +Afterwards he presented me a fine Mauser with silver mountings on the +handle and said: + +“Your pride greatly pleased me. I beg you to receive this weapon as a +memento of me.” + +The following morning I set out anew from Zain Shabi, having in my +pocket the laissez-passer of Bezrodnoff for his outposts. + + +CHAPTER XXXI + +TRAVELING BY “URGA” + + +Once more we traveled along the now known places, the mountain from +which I espied the detachment of Bezrodnoff, the stream into which I had +thrown my weapon, and soon all this lay behind us. At the first ourton +we were disappointed because we did not find horses there. In the yurtas +were only the host with two of his sons. I showed him my document and he +exclaimed: + +“Noyon has the right of ‘urga.’ Horses will be brought very soon.” + +He jumped into his saddle, took two of my Mongols with him, providing +them and himself with long thin poles, four or five metres in length, +and fitted at the end with a loop of rope, and galloped away. My cart +moved behind them. We left the road, crossed the plain for an hour and +came upon a big herd of horses grazing there. The Mongol began to catch +a quota of them for us with his pole and noose or urga, when out of the +mountains nearby came galloping the owners of the herds. When the +old Mongol showed my papers to them, they submissively acquiesced and +substituted four of their men for those who had come with me thus far. +In this manner the Mongols travel, not along the ourton or station road +but directly from one herd to another, where the fresh horses are caught +and saddled and the new owners substituted for those of the last herd. +All the Mongols so effected by the right of urga try to finish their +task as rapidly as possible and gallop like mad for the nearest herd +in your general direction of travel to turn over their task to their +neighbor. Any traveler having this right of urga can catch horses +himself and, if there are no owners, can force the former ones to carry +on and leave the animals in the next herd he requisitions. But this +happens very rarely because the Mongol never likes to seek out his +animals in another’s herd, as it always gives so many chances for +controversy. + +It was from this custom, according to one explanation, that the town +of Urga took its name among outsiders. By the Mongols themselves it is +always referred to as Ta Kure, “The Great Monastery.” The reason the +Buriats and Russians, who were the first to trade into this region, +called it Urga was because it was the principal destination of all the +trading expeditions which crossed the plains by this old method or right +of travel. A second explanation is that the town lies in a “loop” whose +sides are formed by three mountain ridges, along one of which the River +Tola runs like the pole or stick of the familiar urga of the plains. + +Thanks to this unique ticket of urga I crossed quite untraveled +sections of Mongolia for about two hundred miles. It gave me the welcome +opportunity to observe the fauna of this part of the country. I saw many +huge herds of Mongolian antelopes running from five to six thousand, +many groups of bighorns, wapiti and kabarga antelopes. Sometimes small +herds of wild horses and wild asses flashed as a vision on the horizon. + +In one place I observed a big colony of marmots. All over an area of +several square miles their mounds were scattered with the holes leading +down to their runways below, the dwellings of the marmot. In and out +among these mounds the greyish-yellow or brown animals ran in all sizes +up to half that of an average dog. They ran heavily and the skin on +their fat bodies moved as though it were too big for them. The marmots +are splendid prospectors, always digging deep ditches, throwing out on +the surface all the stones. In many places I saw mounds the marmots had +made from copper ore and farther north some from minerals containing +wolfram and vanadium. Whenever the marmot is at the entrance of his +hole, he sits up straight on his hind legs and looks like a bit of wood, +a small stump or a stone. As soon as he spies a rider in the distance, +he watches him with great curiosity and begins whistling sharply. This +curiosity of the marmots is taken advantage of by the hunters, who sneak +up to their holes flourishing streamers of cloth on the tips of long +poles. The whole attention of the small animals is concentrated on this +small flag and only the bullet that takes his life explains to him the +reason for this previously unknown object. + +I saw a very exciting picture as I passed through a marmot colony near +the Orkhon River. There were thousands of holes here so that my Mongols +had to use all their skill to keep the horses from breaking their legs +in them. I noticed an eagle circling high overhead. All of a sudden he +dropped like a stone to the top of a mound, where he sat motionless as +a rock. The marmot in a few minutes ran out of his hole to a neighbor’s +doorway. The eagle calmly jumped down from the top and with one wing +closed the entrance to the hole. The rodent heard the noise, turned back +and rushed to the attack, trying to break through to his hole where he +had evidently left his family. The struggle began. The eagle fought with +one free wing, one leg and his beak but did not withdraw the bar to the +entrance. The marmot jumped at the rapacious bird with great boldness +but soon fell from a blow on the head. Only then the eagle withdrew his +wing, approached the marmot, finished him off and with difficulty +lifted him in his talons to carry him away to the mountains for a tasty +luncheon. + +In the more barren places with only occasional spears of grass in the +plain another species of rodent lives, called imouran, about the size of +a squirrel. They have a coat the same color as the prairie and, running +about it like snakes, they collect the seeds that are blown across by +the wind and carry them down into their diminutive homes. The imouran +has a truly faithful friend, the yellow lark of the prairie with a brown +back and head. When he sees the imouran running across the plain, he +settles on his back, flaps his wings in balance and rides well this +swiftly galloping mount, who gaily flourishes his long shaggy tail. The +lark during his ride skilfully and quickly catches the parasites living +on the body of his friend, giving evidence of his enjoyment of his work +with a short agreeable song. The Mongols call the imouran “the steed of +the gay lark.” The lark warns the imouran of the approach of eagles and +hawks with three sharp whistles the moment he sees the aerial brigand +and takes refuge himself behind a stone or in a small ditch. After this +signal no imouran will stick his head out of his hole until the danger +is past. Thus the gay lark and his steed live in kindly neighborliness. + +In other parts of Mongolia where there was very rich grass I saw another +type of rodent, which I had previously come across in Urianhai. It is +a gigantic black prairie rat with a short tail and lives in colonies +of from one to two hundred. He is interesting and unique as the most +skilful farmer among the animals in his preparation of his winter supply +of fodder. During the weeks when the grass is most succulent he actually +mows it down with swift jerky swings of his head, cutting about twenty +or thirty stalks with his sharp long front teeth. Then he allows his +grass to cure and later puts up his prepared hay in a most scientific +manner. First he makes a mound about a foot high. Through this he pushes +down into the ground four slanting stakes, converging toward the middle +of the pile, and binds them close over the surface of the hay with the +longest strands of grass, leaving the ends protruding enough for him +to add another foot to the height of the pile, when he again binds the +surface with more long strands--all this to keep his winter supply of +food from blowing away over the prairie. This stock he always locates +right at the door of his den to avoid long winter hauls. The horses and +camels are very fond of this small farmer’s hay, because it is always +made from the most nutritious grass. The haycocks are so strongly made +that one can hardly kick them to pieces. + +Almost everywhere in Mongolia I met either single pairs or whole flocks +of the greyish-yellow prairie partridges, salga or “partridge swallow,” + so called because they have long sharp tails resembling those of +swallows and because their flight also is a close copy of that of the +swallow. These birds are very tame or fearless, allowing men to come +within ten or fifteen paces of them; but, when they do break, they go +high and fly long distances without lighting, whistling all the time +quite like swallows. Their general markings are light grey and yellow, +though the males have pretty chocolate spots on the backs and wings, +while their legs and feet are heavily feathered. + +My opportunity to make these observations came from traveling +through unfrequented regions by the urga, which, however, had its +counterbalancing disadvantages. The Mongols carried me directly and +swiftly toward my destination, receiving with great satisfaction the +presents of Chinese dollars which I gave them. But after having made +about five thousand miles on my Cossack saddle that now lay behind me +on the cart all covered with dust like common merchandise, I rebelled +against being wracked and torn by the rough riding of the cart as it was +swung heedlessly over stones, hillocks and ditches by the wild horses +with their equally wild riders, bounding and cracking and holding +together only through its tenacity of purpose in demonstrating the +cosiness and attractiveness of a good Mongol equipage! All my bones +began to ache. Finally I groaned at every lunge and at last I suffered +a very sharp attack of ischias or sciatica in my wounded leg. At night +I could neither sleep, lie down nor sit with comfort and spent the whole +night pacing up and down the plain, listening to the loud snoring of +the inhabitants of the yurta. At times I had to fight the two huge black +dogs which attacked me. The following day I could endure the wracking +only until noon and was then forced to give up and lie down. The pain +was unbearable. I could not move my leg nor my back and finally fell +into a high fever. We were forced to stop and rest. I swallowed all +my stock of aspirin and quinine but without relief. Before me was a +sleepless night about which I could not think without weakening fear. We +had stopped in the yurta for guests by the side of a small monastery. My +Mongols invited the Lama doctor to visit me, who gave me two very bitter +powders and assured me I should be able to continue in the morning. I +soon felt a stimulated palpitation of the heart, after which the pain +became even sharper. Again I spent the night without any sleep but when +the sun arose the pain ceased instantly and, after an hour, I ordered +them to saddle me a horse, as I was afraid to continue further in the +cart. + +While the Mongols were catching the horses, there came to my tent +Colonel N. N. Philipoff, who told me that he denied all the accusations +that he and his brother and Poletika were Bolsheviki and that Bezrodnoff +allowed him to go to Van Kure to meet Baron Ungern, who was expected +there. Only Philipoff did not know that his Mongol guide was armed with +a bomb and that another Mongol had been sent on ahead with a letter to +Baron Ungern. He did not know that Poletika and his brothers were shot +at the same time in Zain Shabi. Philipoff was in a hurry and wanted to +reach Van Kure that day. I left an hour after him. + + +CHAPTER XXXII + +AN OLD FORTUNE TELLER + + +From this point we began traveling along the ourton road. In this region +the Mongols had very poor and exhausted horses, because they were forced +continuously to supply mounts to the numerous envoys of Daichin Van and +of Colonel Kazagrandi. We were compelled to spend the night at the last +ourton before Van Kure, where a stout old Mongol and his son kept the +station. After our supper he took the shoulder-blade of the sheep, which +had been carefully scraped clean of all the flesh, and, looking at me, +placed this bone in the coals with some incantations and said: + +“I want to tell your fortune. All my predictions come true.” + +When the bone had been blackened he drew it out, blew off the ashes and +began to scrutinize the surface very closely and to look through it into +the fire. He continued his examination for a long time and then, with +fear in his face, placed the bone back in the coals. + +“What did you see?” I asked, laughing. + +“Be silent!” he whispered. “I made out horrible signs.” + +He again took out the bone and began examining it all over, all the time +whispering prayers and making strange movements. In a very solemn quiet +voice he began his predictions. + +“Death in the form of a tall white man with red hair will stand behind +you and will watch you long and close. You will feel it and wait but +Death will withdraw. . . . Another white man will become your friend. +. . . Before the fourth day you will lose your acquaintances. They will +die by a long knife. I already see them being eaten by the dogs. Beware +of the man with a head like a saddle. He will strive for your death.” + +For a long time after the fortune had been told we sat smoking and +drinking tea but still the old fellow looked at me only with fear. +Through my brain flashed the thought that thus must his companions in +prison look at one who is condemned to death. + +The next morning we left the fortune teller before the sun was up, and, +when we had made about fifteen miles, hove in sight of Van Kure. I found +Colonel Kazagrandi at his headquarters. He was a man of good family, +an experienced engineer and a splendid officer, who had distinguished +himself in the war at the defence of the island of Moon in the Baltic +and afterwards in the fight with the Bolsheviki on the Volga. Colonel +Kazagrandi offered me a bath in a real tub, which had its habitat in +the house of the president of the local Chamber of Commerce. As I was in +this house, a tall young captain entered. He had long curly red hair and +an unusually white face, though heavy and stolid, with large, steel-cold +eyes and with beautiful, tender, almost girlish lips. But in his eyes +there was such cold cruelty that it was quite unpleasant to look at his +otherwise fine face. When he left the room, our host told me that he was +Captain Veseloffsky, the adjutant of General Rezukhin, who was fighting +against the Bolsheviki in the north of Mongolia. They had just that day +arrived for a conference with Baron Ungern. + +After luncheon Colonel Kazagrandi invited me to his yurta and began +discussing events in western Mongolia, where the situation had become +very tense. + +“Do you know Dr. Gay?” Kazagrandi asked me. “You know he helped me +to form my detachment but Urga accuses him of being the agent of the +Soviets.” + +I made all the defences I could for Gay. He had helped me and had been +exonerated by Kolchak. + +“Yes, yes, and I justified Gay in such a manner,” said the Colonel, “but +Rezukhin, who has just arrived today, has brought letters of Gay’s to +the Bolsheviki which were seized in transit. By order of Baron Ungern, +Gay and his family have today been sent to the headquarters of Rezukhin +and I fear that they will not reach this destination.” + +“Why?” I asked. + +“They will be executed on the road!” answered Colonel Kazagrandi. + +“What are we to do?” I responded. “Gay cannot be a Bolshevik, because +he is too well educated and too clever for it.” + +“I don’t know; I don’t know!” murmured the Colonel with a despondent +gesture. “Try to speak with Rezukhin.” + +I decided to proceed at once to Rezukhin but just then Colonel Philipoff +entered and began talking about the errors being made in the training of +the soldiers. When I had donned my coat, another man came in. He was a +small sized officer with an old green Cossack cap with a visor, a torn +grey Mongol overcoat and with his right hand in a black sling tied +around his neck. It was General Rezukhin, to whom I was at once +introduced. During the conversation the General very politely and very +skilfully inquired about the lives of Philipoff and myself during the +last three years, joking and laughing with discretion and modesty. When +he soon took his leave, I availed myself of the chance and went out with +him. + +He listened very attentively and politely to me and afterwards, in his +quiet voice, said: + +“Dr. Gay is the agent of the Soviets, disguised as a White in order +the better to see, hear and know everything. We are surrounded by our +enemies. The Russian people are demoralized and will undertake any +treachery for money. Such is Gay. Anyway, what is the use of discussing +him further? He and his family are no longer alive. Today my men cut +them to pieces five kilometres from here.” + +In consternation and fear I looked at the face of this small, dapper man +with such soft voice and courteous manners. In his eyes I read such hate +and tenacity that I understood at once the trembling respect of all the +officers whom I had seen in his presence. Afterwards in Urga I learned +more of this General Rezukhin distinguished by his absolute bravery and +boundless cruelty. He was the watchdog of Baron Ungern, ready to throw +himself into the fire and to spring at the throat of anyone his master +might indicate. + +Only four days then had elapsed before “my acquaintances” died “by a +long knife,” so that one part of the prediction had been thus fulfilled. +And now I have to await Death’s threat to me. The delay was not long. +Only two days later the Chief of the Asiatic Division of Cavalry +arrived--Baron Ungern von Sternberg. + + +CHAPTER XXXIII + +“DEATH FROM THE WHITE MAN WILL STAND BEHIND YOU” + + +“The terrible general, the Baron,” arrived quite unexpectedly, unnoticed +by the outposts of Colonel Kazagrandi. After a talk with Kazagrandi the +Baron invited Colonel N. N. Philipoff and me into his presence. Colonel +Kazagrandi brought the word to me. I wanted to go at once but was +detained about half an hour by the Colonel, who then sped me with the +words: + +“Now God help you! Go!” + +It was a strange parting message, not reassuring and quite enigmatical. +I took my Mauser and also hid in the cuff of my coat my cyanide of +potassium. The Baron was quartered in the yurta of the military doctor. +When I entered the court, Captain Veseloffsky came up to me. He had a +Cossack sword and a revolver without its holster beneath his girdle. He +went into the yurta to report my arrival. + +“Come in,” he said, as he emerged from the tent. + +At the entrance my eyes were struck with the sight of a pool of blood +that had not yet had time to drain down into the ground--an ominous +greeting that seemed to carry the very voice of one just gone before me. +I knocked. + +“Come in!” was the answer in a high tenor. As I passed the threshold, +a figure in a red silk Mongolian coat rushed at me with the spring of a +tiger, grabbed and shook my hand as though in flight across my path and +then fell prone on the bed at the side of the tent. + +“Tell me who you are! Hereabouts are many spies and agitators,” he cried +out in an hysterical voice, as he fixed his eyes upon me. In one +moment I perceived his appearance and psychology. A small head on wide +shoulders; blonde hair in disorder; a reddish bristling moustache; a +skinny, exhausted face, like those on the old Byzantine ikons. Then +everything else faded from view save a big, protruding forehead +overhanging steely sharp eyes. These eyes were fixed upon me like those +of an animal from a cave. My observations lasted for but a flash but I +understood that before me was a very dangerous man ready for an instant +spring into irrevocable action. Though the danger was evident, I felt +the deepest offence. + +“Sit down,” he snapped out in a hissing voice, as he pointed to a chair +and impatiently pulled at his moustache. I felt my anger rising through +my whole body and I said to him without taking the chair: + +“You have allowed yourself to offend me, Baron. My name is well enough +known so that you cannot thus indulge yourself in such epithets. You can +do with me as you wish, because force is on your side, but you cannot +compel me to speak with one who gives me offence.” + +At these words of mine he swung his feet down off the bed and with +evident astonishment began to survey me, holding his breath and pulling +still at his moustache. Retaining my exterior calmness, I began to +glance indifferently around the yurta, and only then I noticed General +Rezukhin. I bowed to him and received his silent acknowledgment. After +that I swung my glance back to the Baron, who sat with bowed head and +closed eyes, from time to time rubbing his brow and mumbling to himself. + +Suddenly he stood up and sharply said, looking past and over me: + +“Go out! There is no need of more. . . .” + +I swung round and saw Captain Veseloffsky with his white, cold face. I +had not heard him enter. He did a formal “about face” and passed out of +the door. + +“‘Death from the white man’ has stood behind me,” I thought; “but has it +quite left me?” + +The Baron stood thinking for some time and then began to speak in +jumbled, unfinished phrases. + +“I ask your pardon. . . . You must understand there are so many +traitors! Honest men have disappeared. I cannot trust anybody. All +names are false and assumed; documents are counterfeited. Eyes and +words deceive. . . . All is demoralized, insulted by Bolshevism. I +just ordered Colonel Philipoff cut down, he who called himself the +representative of the Russian White Organization. In the lining of his +garments were found two secret Bolshevik codes. . . . When my officer +flourished his sword over him, he exclaimed: ‘Why do you kill me, +Tavarische?’ I cannot trust anybody. . . .” + +He was silent and I also held my peace. + +“I beg your pardon!” he began anew. “I offended you; but I am not simply +a man, I am a leader of great forces and have in my head so much care, +sorrow and woe!” + +In his voice I felt there was mingled despair and sincerity. He frankly +put out his hand to me. Again silence. At last I answered: + +“What do you order me to do now, for I have neither counterfeit nor real +documents? But many of your officers know me and in Urga I can find many +who will testify that I could be neither agitator nor. . .” + +“No need, no need!” interrupted the Baron. “All is clear, all is +understood! I was in your soul and I know all. It is the truth which +Hutuktu Narabanchi has written about you. What can I do for you?” + +I explained how my friend and I had escaped from Soviet Russia in the +effort to reach our native land and how a group of Polish soldiers had +joined us in the hope of getting back to Poland; and I asked that help +be given us to reach the nearest port. + +“With pleasure, with pleasure. . . . I will help you all,” he answered +excitedly. “I shall drive you to Urga in my motor car. Tomorrow we shall +start and there in Urga we shall talk about further arrangements.” + +Taking my leave, I went out of the yurta. On arriving at my quarters, I +found Colonel Kazagrandi in great anxiety walking up and down my room. + +“Thanks be to God!” he exclaimed and crossed himself. + +His joy was very touching but at the same time I thought that the +Colonel could have taken much more active measures for the salvation of +his guest, if he had been so minded. The agitation of this day had +tired me and made me feel years older. When I looked in the mirror I +was certain there were more white hairs on my head. At night I could +not sleep for the flashing thoughts of the young, fine face of Colonel +Philipoff, the pool of blood, the cold eyes of Captain Veseloffsky, the +sound of Baron Ungern’s voice with its tones of despair and woe, until +finally I sank into a heavy stupor. I was awakened by Baron Ungern who +came to ask pardon that he could not take me in his motor car, because +he was obliged to take Daichin Van with him. But he informed me that he +had left instructions to give me his own white camel and two Cossacks as +servants. I had no time to thank him before he rushed out of my room. + +Sleep then entirely deserted me, so I dressed and began smoking pipe +after pipe of tobacco, as I thought: “How much easier to fight the +Bolsheviki on the swamps of Seybi and to cross the snowy peaks of Ulan +Taiga, where the bad demons kill all the travelers they can! There +everything was simple and comprehensible, but here it is all a mad +nightmare, a dark and foreboding storm!” I felt some tragedy, some +horror in every movement of Baron Ungern, behind whom paced this silent, +white-faced Veseloffsky and Death. + + +CHAPTER XXXIV + +THE HORROR OF WAR! + + +At dawn of the following morning they led up the splendid white camel +for me and we moved away. My company consisted of the two Cossacks, two +Mongol soldiers and one Lama with two pack camels carrying the tent and +food. I still apprehended that the Baron had it in mind not to dispose +of me before my friends there in Van Kure but to prepare this journey +for me under the guise of which it would be so easy to do away with +me by the road. A bullet in the back and all would be finished. +Consequently I was momentarily ready to draw my revolver and defend +myself. I took care all the time to have the Cossacks either ahead of me +or at the side. About noon we heard the distant honk of a motor car and +soon saw Baron Ungern whizzing by us at full speed. With him were two +adjutants and Prince Daichin Van. The Baron greeted me very kindly and +shouted: + +“Shall see you again in Urga!” + +“Ah!” I thought, “evidently I shall reach Urga. So I can be at ease +during my trip, and in Urga I have many friends beside the presence +there of the bold Polish soldiers whom I had worked with in Uliassutai +and who had outdistanced me in this journey.” + +After the meeting with the Baron my Cossacks became very attentive to +me and sought to distract me with stories. They told me about their +very severe struggles with the Bolsheviki in Transbaikalia and Mongolia, +about the battle with the Chinese near Urga, about finding communistic +passports on several Chinese soldiers from Moscow, about the bravery of +Baron Ungern and how he would sit at the campfire smoking and drinking +tea right on the battle line without ever being touched by a bullet. +At one fight seventy-four bullets entered his overcoat, saddle and +the boxes by his side and again left him untouched. This is one of +the reasons for his great influence over the Mongols. They related how +before the battle he had made a reconnaissance in Urga with only +one Cossack and on his way back had killed a Chinese officer and two +soldiers with his bamboo stick or tashur; how he had no outfit save one +change of linen and one extra pair of boots; how he was always calm and +jovial in battle and severe and morose in the rare days of peace; and +how he was everywhere his soldiers were fighting. + +I told them, in turn, of my escape from Siberia and with chatting thus +the day slipped by very quickly. Our camels trotted all the time, so +that instead of the ordinary eighteen to twenty miles per day we made +nearly fifty. My mount was the fastest of them all. He was a huge white +animal with a splendid thick mane and had been presented to Baron Ungern +by some Prince of Inner Mongolia with two black sables tied on the +bridle. He was a calm, strong, bold giant of the desert, on whose back +I felt myself as though perched on the tower of a building. Beyond the +Orkhon River we came across the first dead body of a Chinese soldier, +which lay face up and arms outstretched right in the middle of the road. +When we had crossed the Burgut Mountains, we entered the Tola River +valley, farther up which Urga is located. The road was strewn with the +overcoats, shirts, boots, caps and kettles which the Chinese had thrown +away in their flight; and marked by many of their dead. Further on the +road crossed a morass, where on either side lay great mounds of the dead +bodies of men, horses and camels with broken carts and military debris +of every sort. Here the Tibetans of Baron Ungern had cut up the escaping +Chinese baggage transport; and it was a strange and gloomy contrast to +see the piles of dead besides the effervescing awakening life of spring. +In every pool wild ducks of different kinds floated about; in the high +grass the cranes performed their weird dance of courtship; on the lakes +great flocks of swans and geese were swimming; through the swampy places +like spots of light moved the brilliantly colored pairs of the Mongolian +sacred bird, the turpan or “Lama goose”; on the higher dry places flocks +of wild turkey gamboled and fought as they fed; flocks of the salga +partridge whistled by; while on the mountain side not far away the +wolves lay basking and turning in the lazy warmth of the sun, whining +and occasionally barking like playful dogs. + +Nature knows only life. Death is for her but an episode whose traces +she rubs out with sand and snow or ornaments with luxuriant greenery +and brightly colored bushes and flowers. What matters it to Nature if a +mother at Chefoo or on the banks of the Yangtse offers her bowl of rice +with burning incense at some shrine and prays for the return of her son +that has fallen unknown for all time on the plains along the Tola, where +his bones will dry beneath the rays of Nature’s dissipating fire and be +scattered by her winds over the sands of the prairie? It is splendid, +this indifference of Nature to death, and her greediness for life! + +On the fourth day we made the shores of the Tola well after nightfall. +We could not find the regular ford and I forced my camel to enter +the stream in the attempt to make a crossing without guidance. Very +fortunately I found a shallow, though somewhat miry, place and we got +over all right. This is something to be thankful for in fording a river +with a camel; because, when your mount finds the water too deep, coming +up around his neck, he does not strike out and swim like a horse will do +but just rolls over on his side and floats, which is vastly inconvenient +for his rider. Down by the river we pegged our tent. + +Fifteen miles further on we crossed a battlefield, where the third great +battle for the independence of Mongolia had been fought. Here the troops +of Baron Ungern clashed with six thousand Chinese moving down from +Kiakhta to the aid of Urga. The Chinese were completely defeated and +four thousand prisoners taken. However, these surrendered Chinese tried +to escape during the night. Baron Ungern sent the Transbaikal Cossacks +and Tibetans in pursuit of them and it was their work which we saw on +this field of death. There were still about fifteen hundred unburied and +as many more interred, according to the statements of our Cossacks, +who had participated in this battle. The killed showed terrible sword +wounds; everywhere equipment and other debris were scattered about. +The Mongols with their herds moved away from the neighborhood and their +place was taken by the wolves which hid behind every stone and in every +ditch as we passed. Packs of dogs that had become wild fought with the +wolves over the prey. + +At last we left this place of carnage to the cursed god of war. Soon we +approached a shallow, rapid stream, where the Mongols slipped from their +camels, took off their caps and began drinking. It was a sacred stream +which passed beside the abode of the Living Buddha. From this winding +valley we suddenly turned into another where a great mountain ridge +covered with dark, dense forest loomed up before us. + +“Holy Bogdo-Ol!” exclaimed the Lama. “The abode of the Gods which guard +our Living Buddha!” + +Bogdo-Ol is the huge knot which ties together here three mountain +chains: Gegyl from the southwest, Gangyn from the south, and Huntu from +the north. This mountain covered with virgin forest is the property of +the Living Buddha. The forests are full of nearly all the varieties +of animals found in Mongolia, but hunting is not allowed. Any Mongol +violating this law is condemned to death, while foreigners are deported. +Crossing the Bogdo-Ol is forbidden under penalty of death. This command +was transgressed by only one man, Baron Ungern, who crossed the mountain +with fifty Cossacks, penetrated to the palace of the Living Buddha, +where the Pontiff of Urga was being held under arrest by the Chinese, +and stole him. + + +CHAPTER XXXV + +IN THE CITY OF LIVING GODS, OF 30,000 BUDDHAS AND 60,000 MONKS + + +At last before our eyes the abode of the Living Buddha! At the foot of +Bogdo-Ol behind white walls rose a white Tibetan building covered with +greenish-blue tiles that glittered under the sunshine. It was richly set +among groves of trees dotted here and there with the fantastic roofs +of shrines and small palaces, while further from the mountain it was +connected by a long wooden bridge across the Tola with the city of +monks, sacred and revered throughout all the East as Ta Kure or Urga. +Here besides the Living Buddha live whole throngs of secondary miracle +workers, prophets, sorcerers and wonderful doctors. All these people +have divine origin and are honored as living gods. At the left on the +high plateau stands an old monastery with a huge, dark red tower, which +is known as the “Temple Lamas City,” containing a gigantic bronze gilded +statue of Buddha sitting on the golden flower of the lotus; tens of +smaller temples, shrines, obo, open altars, towers for astrology and the +grey city of the Lamas consisting of single-storied houses and yurtas, +where about 60,000 monks of all ages and ranks dwell; schools, sacred +archives and libraries, the houses of Bandi and the inns for the honored +guests from China, Tibet, and the lands of the Buriat and Kalmuck. + +Down below the monastery is the foreign settlement where the Russian, +foreign and richest Chinese merchants live and where the multi-colored +and crowded oriental bazaar carries forward its bustling life. A +kilometre away the greyish enclosure of Maimachen surrounds the +remaining Chinese trading establishments, while farther on one sees a +long row of Russian private houses, a hospital, church, prison and, last +of all, the awkward four-storied red brick building that was formerly +the Russian Consulate. + +We were already within a short distance of the monastery, when I noticed +several Mongol soldiers in the mouth of a ravine nearby, dragging back +and concealing in the ravine three dead bodies. + +“What are they doing?” I asked. + +The Cossacks only smiled without answering. Suddenly they straightened +up with a sharp salute. Out of the ravine came a small, stocky Mongolian +pony with a short man in the saddle. As he passed us, I noticed the +epaulets of a colonel and the green cap with a visor. He examined me +with cold, colorless eyes from under dense brows. As he went on ahead, +he took off his cap and wiped the perspiration from his bald head. My +eyes were struck by the strange undulating line of his skull. It was the +man “with the head like a saddle,” against whom I had been warned by the +old fortune teller at the last ourton outside Van Kure! + +“Who is this officer?” I inquired. + +Although he was already quite a distance in front of us, the Cossacks +whispered: “Colonel Sepailoff, Commandant of Urga City.” + +Colonel Sepailoff, the darkest person on the canvas of Mongolian events! +Formerly a mechanician, afterwards a gendarme, he had gained quick +promotion under the Czar’s regime. He was always nervously jerking and +wriggling his body and talking ceaselessly, making most unattractive +sounds in his throat and sputtering with saliva all over his lips, his +whole face often contracted with spasms. He was mad and Baron Ungern +twice appointed a commission of surgeons to examine him and ordered him +to rest in the hope he could rid the man of his evil genius. Undoubtedly +Sepailoff was a sadist. I heard afterwards that he himself executed +the condemned people, joking and singing as he did his work. Dark, +terrifying tales were current about him in Urga. He was a bloodhound, +fastening his victims with the jaws of death. All the glory of the +cruelty of Baron Ungern belonged to Sepailoff. Afterwards Baron Ungern +once told me in Urga that this Sepailoff annoyed him and that Sepailoff +could kill him just as well as others. Baron Ungern feared Sepailoff, +not as a man, but dominated by his own superstition, because Sepailoff +had found in Transbaikalia a witch doctor who predicted the death of the +Baron if he dismissed Sepailoff. Sepailoff knew no pardon for Bolshevik +nor for any one connected with the Bolsheviki in any way. The reason for +his vengeful spirit was that the Bolsheviki had tortured him in prison +and, after his escape, had killed all his family. He was now taking his +revenge. + +I put up with a Russian firm and was at once visited by my associates +from Uliassutai, who greeted me with great joy because they had been +much exercised about the events in Van Kure and Zain Shabi. When I had +bathed and spruced up, I went out with them on the street. We entered +the bazaar. The whole market was crowded. To the lively colored groups +of men buying, selling and shouting their wares, the bright streamers of +Chinese cloth, the strings of pearls, the earrings and bracelets gave an +air of endless festivity; while on another side buyers were feeling of +live sheep to see whether they were fat or not, the butcher was cutting +great pieces of mutton from the hanging carcasses and everywhere these +sons of the plain were joking and jesting. The Mongolian women in their +huge coiffures and heavy silver caps like saucers on their heads were +admiring the variegated silk ribbons and long chains of coral beads; an +imposing big Mongol attentively examined a small herd of splendid +horses and bargained with the Mongol zahachine or owner of the horses; a +skinny, quick, black Tibetan, who had come to Urga to pray to the Living +Buddha or, maybe, with a secret message from the other “God” in Lhasa, +squatted and bargained for an image of the Lotus Buddha carved in agate; +in another corner a big crowd of Mongols and Buriats had collected and +surrounded a Chinese merchant selling finely painted snuff-bottles of +glass, crystal, porcelain, amethyst, jade, agate and nephrite, for one +of which made of a greenish milky nephrite with regular brown veins +running through it and carved with a dragon winding itself around a bevy +of young damsels the merchant was demanding of his Mongol inquirers ten +young oxen; and everywhere Buriats in their long red coats and small +red caps embroidered with gold helped the Tartars in black overcoats +and black velvet caps on the back of their heads to weave the pattern of +this Oriental human tapestry. Lamas formed the common background for it +all, as they wandered about in their yellow and red robes, with capes +picturesquely thrown over their shoulders and caps of many forms, some +like yellow mushrooms, others like the red Phrygian bonnets or old +Greek helmets in red. They mingled with the crowd, chatting serenely and +counting their rosaries, telling fortunes for those who would hear but +chiefly searching out the rich Mongols whom they could cure or exploit +by fortune telling, predictions or other mysteries of a city of 60,000 +Lamas. Simultaneously religious and political espionage was being +carried out. Just at this time many Mongols were arriving from Inner +Mongolia and they were continuously surrounded by an invisible but +numerous network of watching Lamas. Over the buildings around floated +the Russian, Chinese and Mongolian national flags with a single one of +the Stars and Stripes above a small shop in the market; while over the +nearby tents and yurtas streamed the ribbons, the squares, the circles +and triangles of the princes and private persons afflicted or dying +from smallpox and leprosy. All were mingled and mixed in one bright mass +strongly lighted by the sun. Occasionally one saw the soldiers of Baron +Ungern rushing about in long blue coats; Mongols and Tibetans in red +coats with yellow epaulets bearing the swastika of Jenghiz Khan and +the initials of the Living Buddha; and Chinese soldiers from their +detachment in the Mongolian army. After the defeat of the Chinese army +two thousand of these braves petitioned the Living Buddha to enlist them +in his legions, swearing fealty and faith to him. They were accepted +and formed into two regiments bearing the old Chinese silver dragons on +their caps and shoulders. + +As we crossed this market, from around a corner came a big motor car +with the roar of a siren. There was Baron Ungern in the yellow silk +Mongolian coat with a blue girdle. He was going very fast but recognized +me at once, stopping and getting out to invite me to go with him to his +yurta. The Baron lived in a small, simply arranged yurta, set up in the +courtyard of a Chinese hong. He had his headquarters in two other yurtas +nearby, while his servants occupied one of the Chinese fang-tzu. When +I reminded him of his promise to help me to reach the open ports, the +General looked at me with his bright eyes and spoke in French: + +“My work here is coming to an end. In nine days I shall begin the war +with the Bolsheviki and shall go into the Transbaikal. I beg that you +will spend this time here. For many years I have lived without civilized +society. I am alone with my thoughts and I would like to have you know +them, speaking with me not as the ‘bloody mad Baron,’ as my enemies call +me, nor as the ‘severe grandfather,’ which my officers and soldiers call +me, but as an ordinary man who has sought much and has suffered even +more.” + +The Baron reflected for some minutes and then continued: + +“I have thought about the further trip of your group and I shall arrange +everything for you, but I ask you to remain here these nine days.” + +What was I to do? I agreed. The Baron shook my hand warmly and ordered +tea. + + +CHAPTER XXXVI + +A SON OF CRUSADERS AND PRIVATEERS + + +“Tell me about yourself and your trip,” he urged. In response I related +all that I thought would interest him and he appeared quite excited over +my tale. + +“Now I shall tell you about myself, who and what I am! My name is +surrounded with such hate and fear that no one can judge what is the +truth and what is false, what is history and what myth. Some time you +will write about it, remembering your trip through Mongolia and your +sojourn at the yurta of the ‘bloody General.’” + +He shut his eyes, smoking as he spoke, and tumbling out his sentences +without finishing them as though some one would prevent him from +phrasing them. + +“The family of Ungern von Sternberg is an old family, a mixture of +Germans with Hungarians--Huns from the time of Attila. My warlike +ancestors took part in all the European struggles. They participated +in the Crusades and one Ungern was killed under the walls of Jerusalem, +fighting under Richard Coeur de Lion. Even the tragic Crusade of the +Children was marked by the death of Ralph Ungern, eleven years old. +When the boldest warriors of the country were despatched to the eastern +border of the German Empire against the Slavs in the twelfth century, my +ancestor Arthur was among them, Baron Halsa Ungern Sternberg. Here these +border knights formed the order of Monk Knights or Teutons, which +with fire and sword spread Christianity among the pagan Lithuanians, +Esthonians, Latvians and Slavs. Since then the Teuton Order of Knights +has always had among its members representatives of our family. When the +Teuton Order perished in the Grunwald under the swords of the Polish and +Lithuanian troops, two Barons Ungern von Sternberg were killed there. +Our family was warlike and given to mysticism and asceticism. + +“During the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries several Barons von +Ungern had their castles in the lands of Latvia and Esthonia. Many +legends and tales lived after them. Heinrich Ungern von Sternberg, +called ‘Ax,’ was a wandering knight. The tournaments of France, England, +Spain and Italy knew his name and lance, which filled the hearts of his +opponents with fear. He fell at Cadiz ‘neath the sword of a knight who +cleft both his helmet and his skull. Baron Ralph Ungern was a brigand +knight between Riga and Reval. Baron Peter Ungern had his castle on +the island of Dago in the Baltic Sea, where as a privateer he ruled the +merchantmen of his day. + +“In the beginning of the eighteenth century there was also a well-known +Baron Wilhelm Ungern, who was referred to as the ‘brother of Satan’ +because he was an alchemist. My grandfather was a privateer in the +Indian Ocean, taking his tribute from the English traders whose warships +could not catch him for several years. At last he was captured and +handed to the Russian Consul, who transported him to Russia where he was +sentenced to deportation to the Transbaikal. I am also a naval officer +but the Russo-Japanese War forced me to leave my regular profession to +join and fight with the Zabaikal Cossacks. I have spent all my life in +war or in the study and learning of Buddhism. My grandfather brought +Buddhism to us from India and my father and I accepted and professed it. +In Transbaikalia I tried to form the order of Military Buddhists for an +uncompromising fight against the depravity of revolution.” + +He fell into silence and began drinking cup after cup of tea as strong +and black as coffee. + +“Depravity of revolution! . . . Has anyone ever thought of it besides +the French philosopher, Bergson, and the most learned Tashi Lama in +Tibet?” + +The grandson of the privateer, quoting scientific theories, works, the +names of scientists and writers, the Holy Bible and Buddhist books, +mixing together French, German, Russian and English, continued: + +“In the Buddhistic and ancient Christian books we read stern predictions +about the time when the war between the good and evil spirits must +begin. Then there must come the unknown ‘Curse’ which will conquer the +world, blot out culture, kill morality and destroy all the people. Its +weapon is revolution. During every revolution the previously experienced +intellect-creator will be replaced by the new rough force of the +destroyer. He will place and hold in the first rank the lower instincts +and desires. Man will be farther removed from the divine and the +spiritual. The Great War proved that humanity must progress upward +toward higher ideals; but then appeared that Curse which was seen and +felt by Christ, the Apostle John, Buddha, the first Christian martyrs, +Dante, Leonardo da Vinci, Goethe and Dostoyevsky. It appeared, turned +back the wheel of progress and blocked our road to the Divinity. +Revolution is an infectious disease and Europe making the treaty with +Moscow deceived itself and the other parts of the world. The Great +Spirit put at the threshold of our lives Karma, who knows neither anger +nor pardon. He will reckon the account, whose total will be famine, +destruction, the death of culture, of glory, of honor and of spirit, +the death of states and the death of peoples. I see already this horror, +this dark, mad destruction of humanity.” + +The door of the yurta suddenly swung open and an adjutant snapped into a +position of attention and salute. + +“Why do you enter a room by force?” the General exclaimed in anger. + +“Your Excellency, our outpost on the border has caught a Bolshevik +reconnaissance party and brought them here.” + +The Baron arose. His eyes sparkled and his face contracted with spasms. + +“Bring them in front of my yurta!” he ordered. + +All was forgotten--the inspired speech, the penetrating voice--all were +sunk in the austere order of the severe commander. The Baron put on his +cap, caught up the bamboo tashur which he always carried with him and +rushed from the yurta. I followed him out. There in front of the yurta +stood six Red soldiers surrounded by the Cossacks. + +The Baron stopped and glared sharply at them for several minutes. In his +face one could see the strong play of his thoughts. Afterwards he turned +away from them, sat down on the doorstep of the Chinese house and for a +long time was buried in thought. Then he rose, walked over to them and, +with an evident show of decisiveness in his movements, touched all the +prisoners on the shoulder with his tashur and said: “You to the left and +you to the right!” as he divided the squad into two sections, four on +the right and two on the left. + +“Search those two! They must be commissars!” commanded the Baron and, +turning to the other four, asked: “Are you peasants mobilized by the +Bolsheviki?” + +“Just so, Your Excellency!” cried the frightened soldiers. + +“Go to the Commandant and tell him that I have ordered you to be +enlisted in my troops!” + +On the two to the left they found passports of Commissars of the +Communist Political Department. The General knitted his brows and slowly +pronounced the following: + +“Beat them to death with sticks!” + +He turned and entered the yurta. After this our conversation did not +flow readily and so I left the Baron to himself. + +After dinner in the Russian firm where I was staying some of Ungern’s +officers came in. We were chatting animatedly when suddenly we heard the +horn of an automobile, which instantly threw the officers into silence. + +“The General is passing somewhere near,” one of them remarked in a +strangely altered voice. + +Our interrupted conversation was soon resumed but not for long. The +clerk of the firm came running into the room and exclaimed: “The Baron!” + +He entered the door but stopped on the threshold. The lamps had not yet +been lighted and it was getting dark inside, but the Baron instantly +recognized us all, approached and kissed the hand of the hostess, +greeted everyone very cordially and, accepting the cup of tea offered +him, drew up to the table to drink. Soon he spoke: + +“I want to steal your guest,” he said to the hostess and then, turning +to me, asked: “Do you want to go for a motor ride? I shall show you the +city and the environs.” + +Donning my coat, I followed my established custom and slipped my +revolver into it, at which the Baron laughed. + +“Leave that trash behind! Here you are in safety. Besides you must +remember the prediction of Narabanchi Hutuktu that Fortune will ever be +with you.” + +“All right,” I answered, also with a laugh. “I remember very well this +prediction. Only I do not know what the Hutuktu thinks ‘Fortune’ means +for me. Maybe it is death like the rest after my hard, long trip, and I +must confess that I prefer to travel farther and am not ready to die.” + +We went out to the gate where the big Fiat stood with its intruding +great lights. The chauffeur officer sat at the wheel like a statue and +remained at salute all the time we were entering and seating ourselves. + +“To the wireless station!” commanded the Baron. + +We veritably leapt forward. The city swarmed, as earlier, with the +Oriental throng, but its appearance now was even more strange and +miraculous. In among the noisy crowd Mongol, Buriat and Tibetan riders +threaded swiftly; caravans of camels solemnly raised their heads as we +passed; the wooden wheels of the Mongol carts screamed in pain; and all +was illumined by splendid great arc lights from the electric station +which Baron Ungern had ordered erected immediately after the capture +of Urga, together with a telephone system and wireless station. He also +ordered his men to clean and disinfect the city which had probably not +felt the broom since the days of Jenghiz Khan. He arranged an auto-bus +traffic between different parts of the city; built bridges over the Tola +and Orkhon; published a newspaper; arranged a veterinary laboratory +and hospitals; re-opened the schools; protected commerce, mercilessly +hanging Russian and Mongolian soldiers for pillaging Chinese firms. + +In one of these cases his Commandant arrested two Cossacks and a Mongol +soldier who had stolen brandy from one of the Chinese shops and brought +them before him. He immediately bundled them all into his car, drove off +to the shop, delivered the brandy back to the proprietor and as promptly +ordered the Mongol to hang one of the Russians to the big gate of the +compound. With this one swung he commanded: “Now hang the other!” and +this had only just been accomplished when he turned to the Commandant +and ordered him to hang the Mongol beside the other two. That seemed +expeditious and just enough until the Chinese proprietor came in dire +distress to the Baron and plead with him: + +“General Baron! General Baron! Please take those men down from my +gateway, for no one will enter my shop!” + +After the commercial quarter was flashed past our eyes, we entered the +Russian settlement across a small river. Several Russian soldiers and +four very spruce-looking Mongolian women stood on the bridge as we +passed. The soldiers snapped to salute like immobile statues and fixed +their eyes on the severe face of their Commander. The women first began +to run and shift about and then, infected by the discipline and order +of events, swung their hands up to salute and stood as immobile as their +northern swains. The Baron looked at me and laughed: + +“You see the discipline! Even the Mongolian women salute me.” + +Soon we were out on the plain with the car going like an arrow, with the +wind whistling and tossing the folds of our coats and caps. But Baron +Ungern, sitting with closed eyes, repeated: “Faster! Faster!” For a long +time we were both silent. + +“And yesterday I beat my adjutant for rushing into my yurta and +interrupting my story,” he said. + +“You can finish it now,” I answered. + +“And are you not bored by it? Well, there isn’t much left and this +happens to be the most interesting. I was telling you that I wanted +to found an order of military Buddhists in Russia. For what? For +the protection of the processes of evolution of humanity and for the +struggle against revolution, because I am certain that evolution leads +to the Divinity and revolution to bestiality. But I worked in Russia! +In Russia, where the peasants are rough, untutored, wild and constantly +angry, hating everybody and everything without understanding why. They +are suspicious and materialistic, having no sacred ideals. Russian +intelligents live among imaginary ideals without realities. They have a +strong capacity for criticising everything but they lack creative power. +Also they have no will power, only the capacity for talking and talking. +With the peasants, they cannot like anything or anybody. Their love and +feelings are imaginary. Their thoughts and sentiments pass without trace +like futile words. My companions, therefore, soon began to violate the +regulations of the Order. Then I introduced the condition of celibacy, +the entire negation of woman, of the comforts of life, of superfluities, +according to the teachings of the Yellow Faith; and, in order that the +Russian might be able to live down his physical nature, I introduced the +limitless use of alcohol, hasheesh and opium. Now for alcohol I hang +my officers and soldiers; then we drank to the ‘white fever,’ delirium +tremens. I could not organize the Order but I gathered round me +and developed three hundred men wholly bold and entirely ferocious. +Afterward they were heroes in the war with Germany and later in the +fight against the Bolsheviki, but now only a few remain.” + +“The wireless, Excellency!” reported the chauffeur. + +“Turn in there!” ordered the General. + +On the top of a flat hill stood the big, powerful radio station which +had been partially destroyed by the retreating Chinese but reconstructed +by the engineers of Baron Ungern. The General perused the telegrams and +handed them to me. They were from Moscow, Chita, Vladivostok and Peking. +On a separate yellow sheet were the code messages, which the Baron +slipped into his pocket as he said to me: + +“They are from my agents, who are stationed in Chita, Irkutsk, Harbin +and Vladivostok. They are all Jews, very skilled and very bold men, +friends of mine all. I have also one Jewish officer, Vulfovitch, who +commands my right flank. He is as ferocious as Satan but clever and +brave. . . . Now we shall fly into space.” + +Once more we rushed away, sinking into the darkness of night. It was a +wild ride. The car bounded over small stones and ditches, even taking +narrow streamlets, as the skilled chauffeur only seemed to guide it +round the larger rocks. On the plain, as we sped by, I noticed several +times small bright flashes of fire which lasted but for a second and +then were extinguished. + +“The eyes of wolves,” smiled my companion. “We have fed them to satiety +from the flesh of ourselves and our enemies!” he quietly interpolated, +as he turned to continue his confession of faith. + +“During the War we saw the gradual corruption of the Russian army and +foresaw the treachery of Russia to the Allies as well as the approaching +danger of revolution. To counteract this latter a plan was formed to +join together all the Mongolian peoples which had not forgotten their +ancient faiths and customs into one Asiatic State, consisting of +autonomous tribal units, under the moral and legislative leadership of +China, the country of loftiest and most ancient culture. Into this State +must come the Chinese, Mongols, Tibetans, Afghans, the Mongol tribes of +Turkestan, Tartars, Buriats, Kirghiz and Kalmucks. This State must +be strong, physically and morally, and must erect a barrier against +revolution and carefully preserve its own spirit, philosophy and +individual policy. If humanity, mad and corrupted, continues to threaten +the Divine Spirit in mankind, to spread blood and to obstruct moral +development, the Asiatic State must terminate this movement decisively +and establish a permanent, firm peace. This propaganda even during the +War made splendid progress among the Turkomans, Kirghiz, Buriats and +Mongols. . . . ‘Stop!’ suddenly shouted the Baron.” + +The car pulled up with a jerk. The General jumped out and called me to +follow. We started walking over the prairie and the Baron kept bending +down all the time as though he were looking for something on the ground. + +“Ah!” he murmured at last, “He has gone away. . . .” + +I looked at him in amazement. + +“A rich Mongol formerly had his yurta here. He was the outfitter for the +Russian merchant, Noskoff. Noskoff was a ferocious man as shown by the +name the Mongols gave him--‘Satan.’ He used to have his Mongol debtors +beaten or imprisoned through the instrumentality of the Chinese +authorities. He ruined this Mongol, who lost everything and escaped to +a place thirty miles away; but Noskoff found him there, took all that he +had left of cattle and horses and left the Mongol and his family to die +of hunger. When I captured Urga, this Mongol appeared and brought with +him thirty other Mongol families similarly ruined by Noskoff. They +demanded his death. . . . So I hung ‘Satan’ . . .” + +Anew the motor car was rushing along, sweeping a great circle on the +prairie, and anew Baron Ungern with his sharp, nervous voice carried his +thoughts round the whole circumference of Asian life. + +“Russia turned traitor to France, England and America, signed the +Brest-Litovsk Treaty and ushered in a reign of chaos. We then decided +to mobilize Asia against Germany. Our envoys penetrated Mongolia, Tibet, +Turkestan and China. At this time the Bolsheviki began to kill all the +Russian officers and we were forced to open civil war against them, +giving up our Pan-Asiatic plans; but we hope later to awake all Asia +and with their help to bring peace and God back to earth. I want to feel +that I have helped this idea by the liberation of Mongolia.” + +He became silent and thought for a moment. + +“But some of my associates in the movement do not like me because of +my atrocities and severity,” he remarked in a sad voice. “They cannot +understand as yet that we are not fighting a political party but a sect +of murderers of all contemporary spiritual culture. Why do the Italians +execute the ‘Black Hand’ gang? Why are the Americans electrocuting +anarchistic bomb throwers? and I am not allowed to rid the world of +those who would kill the soul of the people? I, a Teuton, descendant of +crusaders and privateers, I recognize only death for murderers! . . . +Return!” he commanded the chauffeur. + +An hour and a half later we saw the electric lights of Urga. + + +CHAPTER XXXVII + +THE CAMP OF MARTYRS + + +Near the entrance to the town, a motor car stood before a small house. + +“What does that mean?” exclaimed the Baron. “Go over there!” + +Our car drew up beside the other. The house door opened sharply, several +officers rushed out and tried to hide. + +“Stand!” commanded the General. “Go back inside.” They obeyed and he +entered after them, leaning on his tashur. As the door remained open, I +could see and hear everything. + +“Woe to them!” whispered the chauffeur. “Our officers knew that the +Baron had gone out of the town with me, which means always a long +journey, and must have decided to have a good time. He will order them +beaten to death with sticks.” + +I could see the end of the table covered with bottles and tinned things. +At the side two young women were seated, who sprang up at the +appearance of the General. I could hear the hoarse voice of Baron Ungern +pronouncing sharp, short, stern phrases. + +“Your native land is perishing. . . . The shame of it is upon all you +Russians . . . and you cannot understand it . . . nor feel it. . . . You +need wine and women. . . . Scoundrels! Brutes! . . . One hundred fifty +tashur for every man of you.” + +The voice fell to a whisper. + +“And you, Mesdames, do you not realize the ruin of your people? No? For +you it is of no moment. And have you no feeling for your husbands at +the front who may even now be killed? You are not women. . . . I honor +woman, who feels more deeply and strongly than man; but you are not +women! . . . Listen to me, Mesdames. Once more and I will hang +you. . . .” + +He came back to the car and himself sounded the horn several times. +Immediately Mongol horsemen galloped up. + +“Take these men to the Commandant. I will send my orders later.” + +On the way to the Baron’s yurta we were silent. He was excited and +breathed heavily, lighting cigarette after cigarette and throwing them +aside after but a single puff or two. + +“Take supper with me,” he proposed. + +He also invited his Chief of Staff, a very retiring, oppressed but +splendidly educated man. The servants spread a Chinese hot course for +us followed by cold meat and fruit compote from California with +the inevitable tea. We ate with chopsticks. The Baron was greatly +distraught. + +Very cautiously I began speaking of the offending officers and tried to +justify their actions by the extremely trying circumstances under which +they were living. + +“They are rotten through and through, demoralized, sunk into the +depths,” murmured the General. + +The Chief of Staff helped me out and at last the Baron directed him to +telephone the Commandant to release these gentlemen. + +The following day I spent with my friends, walking a great deal about +the streets and watching their busy life. The great energy of the Baron +demanded constant nervous activity from himself and every one round him. +He was everywhere, seeing everything but never, interfering with the +work of his subordinate administrators. Every one was at work. + +In the evening I was invited by the Chief of Staff to his quarters, +where I met many intelligent officers. I related again the story of my +trip and we were all chatting along animatedly when suddenly Colonel +Sepailoff entered, singing to himself. All the others at once became +silent and one by one under various pretexts they slipped out. He handed +our host some papers and, turning to us, said: + +“I shall send you for supper a splendid fish pie and some hot tomato +soup.” + +As he left, my host clasped his head in desperation and said: + +“With such scum of the earth are we now forced after this revolution to +work!” + +A few minutes later a soldier from Sepailoff brought us a tureen full +of soup and the fish pie. As the soldier bent over the table to set the +dishes down, the Chief motioned me with his eyes and slipped to me the +words: “Notice his face.” + +When the man went out, my host sat attentively listening until the +sounds of the man’s steps ceased. + +“He is Sepailoff’s executioner who hangs and strangles the unfortunate +condemned ones.” + +Then, to my amazement, he began to pour out the soup on the ground +beside the brazier and, going out of the yurta, threw the pie over the +fence. + +“It is Sepailoff’s feast and, though it may be very tasty, it may +also be poison. In Sepailoff’s house it is dangerous to eat or drink +anything.” + +Distinctly oppressed by these doings, I returned to my house. My host +was not yet asleep and met me with a frightened look. My friends were +also there. + +“God be thanked!” they all exclaimed. “Has nothing happened to you?” + +“What is the matter?” I asked. + +“You see,” began the host, “after your departure a soldier came from +Sepailoff and took your luggage, saying that you had sent him for +it; but we knew what it meant--that they would first search it and +afterwards. . . .” + +I at once understood the danger. Sepailoff could place anything he +wanted in my luggage and afterwards accuse me. My old friend, the +agronome, and I started at once for Sepailoff’s, where I left him at the +door while I went in and was met by the same soldier who had brought the +supper to us. Sepailoff received me immediately. In answer to my protest +he said that it was a mistake and, asking me to wait for a moment, went +out. I waited five, ten, fifteen minutes but nobody came. I knocked on +the door but no one answered me. Then I decided to go to Baron Ungern +and started for the exit. The door was locked. Then I tried the other +door and found that also locked. I had been trapped! I wanted at once to +whistle to my friend but just then noticed a telephone on the wall +and called up Baron Ungern. In a few minutes he appeared together with +Sepailoff. + +“What is this?” he asked Sepailoff in a severe, threatening voice; and, +without waiting for an answer, struck him a blow with his tashur that +sent him to the floor. + +We went out and the General ordered my luggage produced. Then he brought +me to his own yurta. + +“Live here, now,” he said. “I am very glad of this accident,” he +remarked with a smile, “for now I can say all that I want to.” + +This drew from me the question: + +“May I describe all that I have heard and seen here?” + +He thought a moment before replying: “Give me your notebook.” + +I handed him the album with my sketches of the trip and he wrote +therein: “After my death, Baron Ungern.” + +“But I am older than you and I shall die before you,” I remarked. + +He shut his eyes, bowed his head and whispered: + +“Oh, no! One hundred thirty days yet and it is finished; then . . . +Nirvana! How wearied I am with sorrow, woe and hate!” + +We were silent for a long time. I felt that I had now a mortal enemy +in Colonel Sepailoff and that I should get out of Urga at the earliest +possible moment. It was two o’clock at night. Suddenly Baron Ungern +stood up. + +“Let us go to the great, good Buddha,” he said with a countenance held +in deep thought and with eyes aflame, his whole face contracted by a +mournful, bitter smile. He ordered the car brought. + +Thus lived this camp of martyrs, refugees pursued by events to their +tryst with Death, driven on by the hate and contempt of this offspring +of Teutons and privateers! And he, martyring them, knew neither day nor +night of peace. Fired by impelling, poisonous thoughts, he tormented +himself with the pains of a Titan, knowing that every day in this +shortening chain of one hundred thirty links brought him nearer to the +precipice called “Death.” + + +CHAPTER XXXVIII + +BEFORE THE FACE OF BUDDHA + + +As we came to the monastery we left the automobile and dipped into the +labyrinth of narrow alleyways until at last we were before the greatest +temple of Urga with the Tibetan walls and windows and its pretentious +Chinese roof. A single lantern burned at the entrance. The heavy gate +with the bronze and iron trimmings was shut. When the General struck the +big brass gong hanging by the gate, frightened monks began running up +from all directions and, seeing the “General Baron,” fell to the earth +in fear of raising their heads. + +“Get up,” said the Baron, “and let us into the Temple!” + +The inside was like that of all Lama temples, the same multi-colored +flags with the prayers, symbolic signs and the images of holy saints; +the big bands of silk cloth hanging from the ceiling; the images of the +gods and goddesses. On both sides of the approach to the altar were the +low red benches for the Lamas and choir. On the altar small lamps threw +their rays on the gold and silver vessels and candlesticks. Behind it +hung a heavy yellow silk curtain with Tibetan inscriptions. The Lamas +drew the curtain aside. Out of the dim light from the flickering lamps +gradually appeared the great gilded statue of Buddha seated in the +Golden Lotus. The face of the god was indifferent and calm with only a +soft gleam of light animating it. On either side he was guarded by many +thousands of lesser Buddhas brought by the faithful as offerings in +prayer. The Baron struck the gong to attract Great Buddha’s attention to +his prayer and threw a handful of coins into the large bronze bowl. And +then this scion of crusaders who had read all the philosophers of the +West, closed his eyes, placed his hands together before his face and +prayed. I noticed a black rosary on his left wrist. He prayed about ten +minutes. Afterwards he led me to the other end of the monastery and, +during our passage, said to me: + +“I do not like this temple. It is new, erected by the Lamas when the +Living Buddha became blind. I do not find on the face of the golden +Buddha either tears, hopes, distress or thanks of the people. They have +not yet had time to leave these traces on the face of the god. We shall +go now to the old Shrine of Prophecies.” + +This was a small building, blackened with age and resembling a tower +with a plain round roof. The doors stood open. At both sides of the door +were prayer wheels ready to be spun; over it a slab of copper with the +signs of the zodiac. Inside two monks, who were intoning the sacred +sutras, did not lift their eyes as we entered. The General approached +them and said: + +“Cast the dice for the number of my days!” + +The priests brought two bowls with many dice therein and rolled them +out on their low table. The Baron looked and reckoned with them the sum +before he spoke: + +“One hundred thirty! Again one hundred thirty!” + +Approaching the altar carrying an ancient stone statue of Buddha brought +all the way from India, he again prayed. As day dawned, we wandered out +through the monastery, visited all the temples and shrines, the museum +of the medical school, the astrological tower and then the court where +the Bandi and young Lamas have their daily morning wrestling exercises. +In other places the Lamas were practising with the bow and arrow. Some +of the higher Lamas feasted us with hot mutton, tea and wild onions. +After we returned to the yurta I tried to sleep but in vain. Too many +different questions were troubling me. “Where am I? In what epoch am +I living?” I knew not but I dimly felt the unseen touch of some great +idea, some enormous plan, some indescribable human woe. + +After our noon meal the General said he wanted to introduce me to the +Living Buddha. It is so difficult to secure audience with the Living +Buddha that I was very glad to have this opportunity offered me. +Our auto soon drew up at the gate of the red and white striped wall +surrounding the palace of the god. Two hundred Lamas in yellow and red +robes rushed to greet the arriving “Chiang Chun,” General, with the +low-toned, respectful whisper “Khan! God of War!” As a regiment of +formal ushers they led us to a spacious great hall softened by its +semi-darkness. Heavy carved doors opened to the interior parts of the +palace. In the depths of the hall stood a dais with the throne covered +with yellow silk cushions. The back of the throne was red inside a +gold framing; at either side stood yellow silk screens set in highly +ornamented frames of black Chinese wood; while against the walls at +either side of the throne stood glass cases filled with varied objects +from China, Japan, India and Russia. I noticed also among them a pair of +exquisite Marquis and Marquises in the fine porcelain of Sevres. Before +the throne stood a long, low table at which eight noble Mongols were +seated, their chairman, a highly esteemed old man with a clever, +energetic face and with large penetrating eyes. His appearance reminded +me of the authentic wooden images of the Buddhist holymen with eyes +of precious stones which I saw at the Tokyo Imperial Museum in the +department devoted to Buddhism, where the Japanese show the ancient +statues of Amida, Daunichi-Buddha, the Goddess Kwannon and the jolly old +Hotei. + +This man was the Hutuktu Jahantsi, Chairman of the Mongolian Council of +Ministers, and honored and revered far beyond the bournes of Mongolia. +The others were the Ministers--Khans and the Highest Princes of Khalkha. +Jahantsi Hutuktu invited Baron Ungern to the place at his side, while +they brought in a European chair for me. Baron Ungern announced to the +Council of Ministers through an interpreter that he would leave Mongolia +in a few days and urged them to protect the freedom won for the lands +inhabited by the successors of Jenghiz Khan, whose soul still lives +and calls upon the Mongols to become anew a powerful people and reunite +again into one great Mid-Asiatic State all the Asian kingdoms he had +ruled. + +The General rose and all the others followed him. He took leave of each +one separately and sternly. Only before Jahantsi Lama he bent low while +the Hutuktu placed his hands on the Baron’s head and blessed him. From +the Council Chamber we passed at once to the Russian style house which +is the personal dwelling of the Living Buddha. The house was wholly +surrounded by a crowd of red and yellow Lamas; servants, councilors of +Bogdo, officials, fortune tellers, doctors and favorites. From the front +entrance stretched a long red rope whose outer end was thrown over the +wall beside the gate. Crowds of pilgrims crawling up on their knees +touch this end of the rope outside the gate and hand the monk a silken +hatyk or a bit of silver. This touching of the rope whose inner end is +in the hand of the Bogdo establishes direct communication with the holy, +incarnated Living God. A current of blessing is supposed to flow through +this cable of camel’s wool and horse hair. Any Mongol who has touched +the mystic rope receives and wears about his neck a red band as the sign +of his accomplished pilgrimage. + +I had heard very much about the Bogdo Khan before this opportunity +to see him. I had heard of his love of alcohol, which had brought on +blindness, about his leaning toward exterior western culture and about +his wife drinking deep with him and receiving in his name numerous +delegations and envoys. + +In the room which the Bogdo used as his private study, where two Lama +secretaries watched day and night over the chest that contained his +great seals, there was the severest simplicity. On a low, plain, Chinese +lacquered table lay his writing implements, a case of seals given by +the Chinese Government and by the Dalai Lama and wrapped in a cloth of +yellow silk. Nearby was a low easy chair, a bronze brazier with an +iron stovepipe leading up from it; on the walls were the signs of the +swastika, Tibetan and Mongolian inscriptions; behind the easy chair a +small altar with a golden statue of Buddha before which two tallow lamps +were burning; the floor was covered with a thick yellow carpet. + +When we entered, only the two Lama secretaries were there, for the +Living Buddha was in the small private shrine in an adjoining chamber, +where no one is allowed to enter save the Bogdo Khan himself and one +Lama, Kanpo-Gelong, who cares for the temple arrangements and assists +the Living Buddha during his prayers of solitude. The secretary told +us that the Bogdo had been greatly excited this morning. At noon he had +entered his shrine. For a long time the voice of the head of the Yellow +Faith was heard in earnest prayer and after his another unknown voice +came clearly forth. In the shrine had taken place a conversation between +the Buddha on earth and the Buddha of heaven--thus the Lamas phrased it +to us. + +“Let us wait a little,” the Baron proposed. “Perhaps he will soon come +out.” + +As we waited the General began telling me about Jahantsi Lama, saying +that, when Jahantsi is calm, he is an ordinary man but, when he is +disturbed and thinks very deeply, a nimbus appears about his head. + +After half an hour the Lama secretaries suddenly showed signs of deep +fear and began listening closely by the entrance to the shrine. Shortly +they fell on their faces on the ground. The door slowly opened and there +entered the Emperor of Mongolia, the Living Buddha, His Holiness Bogdo +Djebtsung Damba Hutuktu, Khan of Outer Mongolia. He was a stout old man +with a heavy shaven face resembling those of the Cardinals of Rome. He +was dressed in the yellow silken Mongolian coat with a black binding. +The eyes of the blind man stood widely open. Fear and amazement were +pictured in them. He lowered himself heavily into the easy chair and +whispered: “Write!” + +A secretary immediately took paper and a Chinese pen as the Bogdo began +to dictate his vision, very complicated and far from clear. He finished +with the following words: + +“This I, Bogdo Hutuktu Khan, saw, speaking with the great wise Buddha, +surrounded by the good and evil spirits. Wise Lamas, Hutuktus, Kanpos, +Marambas and Holy Gheghens, give the answer to my vision!” + +As he finished, he wiped the perspiration from his head and asked who +were present. + +“Khan Chiang Chin Baron Ungern and a stranger,” one of the secretaries +answered on his knees. + +The General presented me to the Bogdo, who bowed his head as a sign of +greeting. They began speaking together in low tones. Through the open +door I saw a part of the shrine. I made out a big table with a heap of +books on it, some open and others lying on the floor below; a brazier +with the red charcoal in it; a basket containing the shoulder blades and +entrails of sheep for telling fortunes. Soon the Baron rose and bowed +before the Bogdo. The Tibetan placed his hands on the Baron’s head and +whispered a prayer. Then he took from his own neck a heavy ikon and hung +it around that of the Baron. + +“You will not die but you will be incarnated in the highest form of +being. Remember that, Incarnated God of War, Khan of grateful Mongolia!” + I understood that the Living Buddha blessed the “Bloody General” before +death. + + +During the next two days I had the opportunity to visit the Living +Buddha three times together with a friend of the Bogdo, the Buriat +Prince Djam Bolon. I shall describe these visits in Part IV. + +Baron Ungern organized the trip for me and my party to the shore of the +Pacific. We were to go on camels to northern Manchuria, because there +it was easy to avoid cavilling with the Chinese authorities so badly +oriented in the international relationship with Poland. Having sent a +letter from Uliassutai to the French Legation at Peking and bearing with +me a letter from the Chinese Chamber of Commerce, expressing thanks +for the saving of Uliassutai from a pogrom, I intended to make for the +nearest station on the Chinese Eastern Railway and from there proceed to +Peking. The Danish merchant E. V. Olufsen was to have traveled out with +me and also a learned Lama Turgut, who was headed for China. + +Never shall I forget the night of May 19th to 20th of 1921! After dinner +Baron Ungern proposed that we go to the yurta of Djam Bolon, whose +acquaintance I had made on the first day after my arrival in Urga. +His yurta was placed on a raised wooden platform in a compound located +behind the Russian settlement. Two Buriat officers met us and took us +in. Djam Bolon was a man of middle age, tall and thin with an unusually +long face. Before the Great War he had been a simple shepherd but had +fought together with Baron Ungern on the German front and afterwards +against the Bolsheviki. He was a Grand Duke of the Buriats, the +successor of former Buriat kings who had been dethroned by the Russian +Government after their attempt to establish the Independence of the +Buriat people. The servants brought us dishes with nuts, raisins, dates +and cheese and served us tea. + +“This is the last night, Djam Bolon!” said Baron Ungern. “You promised +me . . .” + +“I remember,” answered the Buriat, “all is ready.” + +For a long time I listened to their reminiscences about former battles +and friends who had been lost. The clock pointed to midnight when Djam +Bolon got up and went out of the yurta. + +“I want to have my fortune told once more,” said Baron Ungern, as though +he were justifying himself. “For the good of our cause it is too early +for me to die. . . .” + +Djam Bolon came back with a little woman of middle years, who squatted +down eastern style before the brazier, bowed low and began to stare at +Baron Ungern. Her face was whiter, narrower and thinner than that of a +Mongol woman. Her eyes were black and sharp. Her dress resembled that of +a gypsy woman. Afterwards I learned that she was a famous fortune teller +and prophet among the Buriats, the daughter of a gypsy woman and a +Buriat. She drew a small bag very slowly from her girdle, took from it +some small bird bones and a handful of dry grass. She began whispering +at intervals unintelligible words, as she threw occasional handfuls of +the grass into the fire, which gradually filled the tent with a soft +fragrance. I felt a distinct palpitation of my heart and a swimming in +my head. After the fortune teller had burned all her grass, she placed +the bird bones on the charcoal and turned them over again and again with +a small pair of bronze pincers. As the bones blackened, she began to +examine them and then suddenly her face took on an expression of fear +and pain. She nervously tore off the kerchief which bound her head and, +contracted with convulsions, began snapping out short, sharp phrases. + +“I see . . . I see the God of War. . . . His life runs out . . . +horribly. . . . After it a shadow . . . black like the night. . . . +Shadow. . . . One hundred thirty steps remain. . . . Beyond darkness. +. . . Nothing . . . I see nothing. . . . The God of War has +disappeared. . . .” + +Baron Ungern dropped his head. The woman fell over on her back with her +arms stretched out. She had fainted, but it seemed to me that I noticed +once a bright pupil of one of her eyes showing from under the closed +lashes. Two Buriats carried out the lifeless form, after which a long +silence reigned in the yurta of the Buriat Prince. Baron Ungern finally +got up and began to walk around the brazier, whispering to himself. +Afterwards he stopped and began speaking rapidly: + +“I shall die! I shall die! . . . but no matter, no matter. . . . The +cause has been launched and will not die. . . . I know the roads this +cause will travel. The tribes of Jenghiz Khan’s successors are awakened. +Nobody shall extinguish the fire in the heart of the Mongols! In Asia +there will be a great State from the Pacific and Indian Oceans to the +shore of the Volga. The wise religion of Buddha shall run to the north +and the west. It will be the victory of the spirit. A conqueror and +leader will appear stronger and more stalwart than Jenghiz Khan and +Ugadai. He will be more clever and more merciful than Sultan Baber +and he will keep power in his hands until the happy day when, from his +subterranean capital, shall emerge the King of the World. Why, why shall +I not be in the first ranks of the warriors of Buddhism? Why has Karma +decided so? But so it must be! And Russia must first wash herself from +the insult of revolution, purifying herself with blood and death; and +all people accepting Communism must perish with their families in order +that all their offspring may be rooted out!” + +The Baron raised his hand above his head and shook it, as though he were +giving his orders and bequests to some invisible person. + +Day was dawning. + +“My time has come!” said the General. “In a little while I shall leave +Urga.” + +He quickly and firmly shook hands with us and said: + +“Good-bye for all time! I shall die a horrible death but the world has +never seen such a terror and such a sea of blood as it shall now +see. . . .” + +The door of the yurta slammed shut and he was gone. I never saw him +again. + +“I must go also, for I am likewise leaving Urga today.” + +“I know it,” answered the Prince, “the Baron has left you with me for +some purpose. I will give you a fourth companion, the Mongol Minister of +War. You will accompany him to your yurta. It is necessary for you. . . +.” + +Djam Bolon pronounced this last with an accent on every word. I did +not question him about it, as I was accustomed to the mystery of this +country of the mysteries of good and evil spirits. + + +CHAPTER XXXIX + +“THE MAN WITH A HEAD LIKE A SADDLE” + + +After drinking tea at Djam Bolon’s yurta I rode back to my quarters and +packed my few belongings. The Lama Turgut was already there. + +“The Minister of War will travel with us,” he whispered. “It is +necessary.” + +“All right,” I answered, and rode off to Olufsen to summon him. But +Olufsen unexpectedly announced that he was forced to spend some few +days more in Urga--a fatal decision for him, for a month later he was +reported killed by Sepailoff who remained as Commandant of the city +after Baron Ungern’s departure. The War Minister, a stout, young Mongol, +joined our caravan. When we had gone about six miles from the city, we +saw an automobile coming up behind us. The Lama shrunk up inside his +coat and looked at me with fear. I felt the now familiar atmosphere of +danger and so opened my holster and threw over the safety catch of +my revolver. Soon the motor stopped alongside our caravan. In it sat +Sepailoff with a smiling face and beside him his two executioners, +Chestiakoff and Jdanoff. Sepailoff greeted us very warmly and asked: + +“You are changing your horses in Khazahuduk? Does the road cross that +pass ahead? I don’t know the way and must overtake an envoy who went +there.” + +The Minister of War answered that we would be in Khazahuduk that evening +and gave Sepailoff directions as to the road. The motor rushed away and, +when it had topped the pass, he ordered one of the Mongols to gallop +forward to see whether it had not stopped somewhere near the other side. +The Mongol whipped his steed and sped away. We followed slowly. + +“What is the matter?” I asked. “Please explain!” + +The Minister told me that Djam Bolon yesterday received information +that Sepailoff planned to overtake me on the way and kill me. Sepailoff +suspected that I had stirred up the Baron against him. Djam Bolon +reported the matter to the Baron, who organized this column for my +safety. The returning Mongol reported that the motor car had gone on out +of sight. + +“Now,” said the Minister, “we shall take quite another route so that the +Colonel will wait in vain for us at Khazahuduk.” + +We turned north at Undur Dobo and at night were in the camp of a local +prince. Here we took leave of our Minister, received splendid fresh +horses and quickly continued our trip to the east, leaving behind us +“the man with the head like a saddle” against whom I had been warned by +the old fortune teller in the vicinity of Van Kure. + +After twelve days without further adventures we reached the first +railway station on the Chinese Eastern Railway, from where I traveled in +unbelievable luxury to Peking. + +* * * * * + +Surrounded by the comforts and conveniences of the splendid hotel +at Peking, while shedding all the attributes of traveler, hunter and +warrior, I could not, however, throw off the spell of those nine days +spent in Urga, where I had daily met Baron Ungern, “Incarnated God of +War.” The newspapers carrying accounts of the bloody march of the Baron +through Transbaikalia brought the pictures ever fresh to my mind. Even +now, although more than seven months have elapsed, I cannot forget those +nights of madness, inspiration and hate. + +The predictions are fulfilled. Approximately one hundred thirty days +afterwards Baron Ungern was captured by the Bolsheviki through the +treachery of his officers and, it is reported, was executed at the end +of September. + +Baron R. F. Ungern von Sternberg. . . . Like a bloody storm of avenging +Karma he spread over Central Asia. What did he leave behind him? The +severe order to his soldiers closing with the words of the Revelations +of St. John: + +“Let no one check the revenge against the corrupter and slayer of the +soul of the Russian people. Revolution must be eradicated from the +World. Against it the Revelations of St. John have warned us thus: ‘And +the woman was arrayed in purple and scarlet, and decked with gold and +precious stones and pearls, having in her hand a golden cup full of +abominations, even the unclean things of her fornication, and upon her +forehead a name written, MYSTERY, BABYLON THE GREAT, THE MOTHER OF +THE HARLOTS AND OF THE ABOMINATIONS OF THE EARTH. And I saw the woman +drunken with the blood of the saints, and with the blood of the martyrs +of Jesus.’” + +It is a human document, a document of Russian and, perhaps, of world +tragedy. + +But there remained another and more important trace. In the Mongol +yurtas and at the fires of Buriat, Mongol, Djungar, Kirkhiz, Kalmuck and +Tibetan shepherds still speak the legend born of this son of crusaders +and privateers: + +“From the north a white warrior came and called on the Mongols to break +their chains of slavery, which fell upon our freed soil. This white +warrior was the Incarnated Jenghiz Khan and he predicted the coming of +the greatest of all Mongols who will spread the fair faith of Buddha and +the glory and power of the offspring of Jenghiz, Ugadai and Kublai Khan. +So it shall be!” + +Asia is awakened and her sons utter bold words. + +It were well for the peace of the world if they go forth as disciples of +the wise creators, Ugadai and Sultan Baber, rather than under the spell +of the “bad demons” of the destructive Tamerlane. + + + + +Part IV + +THE LIVING BUDDHA + + +CHAPTER XL + +IN THE BLISSFUL GARDEN OF A THOUSAND JOYS + + +In Mongolia, the country of miracles and mysteries, lives the custodian +of all the mysterious and unknown, the Living Buddha, His Holiness +Djebtsung Damba Hutuktu Khan or Bogdo Gheghen, Pontiff of Ta Kure. He +is the incarnation of the never-dying Buddha, the representative of the +unbroken, mysteriously continued line of spiritual emperors ruling +since 1670, concealing in themselves the ever refining spirit of Buddha +Amitabha joined with Chan-ra-zi or the “Compassionate Spirit of the +Mountains.” In him is everything, even the Sun Myth and the fascination +of the mysterious peaks of the Himalayas, tales of the Indian pagoda, +the stern majesty of the Mongolian Conquerors--Emperors of All Asia--and +the ancient, hazy legends of the Chinese sages; immersion in the +thoughts of the Brahmans; the severities of life of the monks of the +“Virtuous Order”; the vengeance of the eternally wandering warriors, the +Olets, with their Khans, Batur Hun Taigi and Gushi; the proud bequests +of Jenghiz and Kublai Khan; the clerical reactionary psychology of the +Lamas; the mystery of Tibetan kings beginning from Srong-Tsang Gampo; +and the mercilessness of the Yellow Sect of Paspa. All the hazy history +of Asia, of Mongolia, Pamir, Himalayas, Mesopotamia, Persia and China, +surrounds the Living God of Urga. It is little wonder that his name +is honored along the Volga, in Siberia, Arabia, between the Tigris and +Euphrates, in Indo-China and on the shores of the Arctic Ocean. + +During my stay in Urga I visited the abode of the Living Buddha several +times, spoke with him and observed his life. His favorite learned +Marambas gave me long accounts of him. I saw him reading horoscopes, I +heard his predictions, I looked over his archives of ancient books and +the manuscripts containing the lives and predictions of all the Bogdo +Khans. The Lamas were very frank and open with me, because the letter of +the Hutuktu of Narabanchi won for me their confidence. + +The personality of the Living Buddha is double, just as everything in +Lamaism is double. Clever, penetrating, energetic, he at the same time +indulges in the drunkenness which has brought on blindness. When he +became blind, the Lamas were thrown into a state of desperation. Some of +them maintained that Bogdo Khan must be poisoned and another Incarnate +Buddha set in his place; while the others pointed out the great merits +of the Pontiff in the eyes of Mongolians and the followers of the Yellow +Faith. They finally decided to propitiate the gods by building a great +temple with a gigantic statue of Buddha. However, this did not help +the Bogdo’s sight but the whole incident gave him the opportunity of +hurrying on to their higher life those among the Lamas who had shown too +much radicalism in their proposed method of solving his problem. + +He never ceases to ponder upon the cause of the church and of Mongolia +and at the same time likes to indulge himself with useless trifles. He +amuses himself with artillery. A retired Russian officer presented him +with two old guns, for which the donor received the title of Tumbaiir +Hun, that is, “Prince Dear-to-my-Heart.” On holidays these cannon were +fired to the great amusement of the blind man. Motorcars, gramophones, +telephones, crystals, porcelains, pictures, perfumes, musical +instruments, rare animals and birds; elephants, Himalayan bears, +monkeys, Indian snakes and parrots--all these were in the palace of “the +god” but all were soon cast aside and forgotten. + +To Urga come pilgrims and presents from all the Lamaite and Buddhist +world. Once the treasurer of the palace, the Honorable Balma Dorji, +took me into the great hall where the presents were kept. It was a most +unique museum of precious articles. Here were gathered together rare +objects unknown to the museums of Europe. The treasurer, as he opened a +case with a silver lock, said to me: + +“These are pure gold nuggets from Bei Kem; here are black sables from +Kemchick; these the miraculous deer horns; this a box sent by the +Orochons and filled with precious ginseng roots and fragrant musk; this +a bit of amber from the coast of the ‘frozen sea’ and it weighs 124 lans +(about ten pounds); these are precious stones from India, fragrant zebet +and carved ivory from China.” + +He showed the exhibits and talked of them for a long time and evidently +enjoyed the telling. And really it was wonderful! Before my eyes lay the +bundles of rare furs; white beaver, black sables, white, blue and black +fox and black panthers; small beautifully carved tortoise shell boxes +containing hatyks ten or fifteen yards long, woven from Indian silk as +fine as the webs of the spider; small bags made of golden thread +filled with pearls, the presents of Indian Rajahs; precious rings with +sapphires and rubies from China and India; big pieces of jade, rough +diamonds; ivory tusks ornamented with gold, pearls and precious stones; +bright clothes sewn with gold and silver thread; walrus tusks carved in +bas-relief by the primitive artists on the shores of the Behring Sea; +and much more that one cannot recall or recount. In a separate room +stood the cases with the statues of Buddha, made of gold, silver, +bronze, ivory, coral, mother of pearl and from a rare colored and +fragrant species of wood. + +“You know when conquerors come into a country where the gods are +honored, they break the images and throw them down. So it was more than +three hundred years ago when the Kalmucks went into Tibet and the same +was repeated in Peking when the European troops looted the place in +1900. But do you know why this is done? Take one of the statues and +examine it.” + +I picked up one nearest the edge, a wooden Buddha, and began examining +it. Inside something was loose and rattled. + +“Do you hear it?” the Lama asked. “These are precious stones and bits of +gold, the entrails of the god. This is the reason why the conquerors at +once break up the statues of the gods. Many famous precious stones have +appeared from the interior of the statues of the gods in India, Babylon +and China.” + +Some rooms were devoted to the library, where manuscripts and volumes +of different epochs in different languages and with many diverse themes +fill the shelves. Some of them are mouldering or pulverizing away and +the Lamas cover these now with a solution which partially solidifies +like a jelly to protect what remains from the ravages of the air. There +also we saw tablets of clay with the cuneiform inscriptions, evidently +from Babylonia; Chinese, Indian and Tibetan books shelved beside those +of Mongolia; tomes of the ancient pure Buddhism; books of the “Red Caps” + or corrupt Buddhism; books of the “Yellow” or Lamaite Buddhism; books +of traditions, legends and parables. Groups of Lamas were perusing, +studying and copying these books, preserving and spreading the ancient +wisdom for their successors. + +One department is devoted to the mysterious books on magic, the +historical lives and works of all the thirty-one Living Buddhas, with +the bulls of the Dalai Lama, of the Pontiff from Tashi Lumpo, of the +Hutuktu of Utai in China, of the Pandita Gheghen of Dolo Nor in Inner +Mongolia and of the Hundred Chinese Wise Men. Only the Bogdo Hutuktu and +Maramba Ta-Rimpo-Cha can enter this room of mysterious lore. The keys to +it rest with the seals of the Living Buddha and the ruby ring of Jenghiz +Khan ornamented with the sign of the swastika in the chest in the +private study of the Bogdo. + +The person of His Holiness is surrounded by five thousand Lamas. They +are divided into many ranks from simple servants to the “Councillors of +God,” of which latter the Government consists. Among these Councillors +are all the four Khans of Mongolia and the five highest Princes. + +Of all the Lamas there are three classes of peculiar interest, about +which the Living Buddha himself told me when I visited him with Djam +Bolon. + +“The God” sorrowfully mourned over the demoralized and sumptuous life +led by the Lamas which decreased rapidly the number of fortune tellers +and clairvoyants among their ranks, saying of it: + +“If the Jahantsi and Narabanchi monasteries had not preserved their +strict regime and rules, Ta Kure would have been left without prophets +and fortune tellers. Barun Abaga Nar, Dorchiul-Jurdok and the other holy +Lamas who had the power of seeing that which is hidden from the sight of +the common people have gone with the blessing of the gods.” + +This class of Lamas is a very important one, because every important +personage visiting the monasteries at Urga is shown to the Lama Tzuren +or fortune teller without the knowledge of the visitor for the study of +his destiny and fate, which are then communicated to the Bogdo Hutuktu, +so that with these facts in his possession the Bogdo knows in what way +to treat his guest and what policy to follow toward him. The Tzurens are +mostly old men, skinny, exhausted and severe ascetics. But I have met +some who were young, almost boys. They were the Hubilgan, “incarnate +gods,” the future Hutuktus and Gheghens of the various Mongolian +monasteries. + +The second class is the doctors or “Ta Lama.” They observe the actions +of plants and certain products from animals upon people, preserve +Tibetan medicines and cures, and study anatomy very carefully but +without making use of vivisection and the scalpel. They are skilful +bone setters, masseurs and great connoisseurs of hypnotism and animal +magnetism. + +The third class is the highest rank of doctors, consisting chiefly of +Tibetans and Kalmucks--poisoners. They may be said to be “doctors of +political medicine.” They live by themselves, apart from any associates, +and are the great silent weapon in the hands of the Living Buddha. I +was informed that a large portion of them are dumb. I saw one such +doctor,--the very person who poisoned the Chinese physician sent by the +Chinese Emperor from Peking to “liquidate” the Living Buddha,--a small +white old fellow with a deeply wrinkled face, a curl of white hairs on +his chin and with vivacious eyes that were ever shifting inquiringly +about him. Whenever he comes to a monastery, the local “god” ceases to +eat and drink in fear of the activities of this Mongolian Locusta. But +even this cannot save the condemned, for a poisoned cap or shirt or +boots, or a rosary, a bridle, books or religious articles soaked in a +poisonous solution will surely accomplish the object of the Bogdo-Khan. + +The deepest esteem and religious faithfulness surround the blind +Pontiff. Before him all fall on their faces. Khans and Hutuktus approach +him on their knees. Everything about him is dark, full of Oriental +antiquity. The drunken blind man, listening to the banal arias of the +gramophone or shaking his servants with an electric current from his +dynamo, the ferocious old fellow poisoning his political enemies, +the Lama keeping his people in darkness and deceiving them with his +prophecies and fortune telling,--he is, however, not an entirely +ordinary man. + +One day we sat in the room of the Bogdo and Prince Djam Bolon translated +to him my story of the Great War. The old fellow was listening very +carefully but suddenly opened his eyes widely and began to give +attention to some sounds coming in from outside the room. His face +became reverent, supplicant and frightened. + +“The Gods call me,” he whispered and slowly moved into his private +shrine, where he prayed loudly about two hours, kneeling immobile as a +statue. His prayer consists of conversation with the invisible gods, to +whose questions he himself gave the answers. He came out of the shrine +pale and exhausted but pleased and happy. It was his personal prayer. +During the regular temple service he did not participate in the prayers, +for then he is “God.” Sitting on his throne, he is carried and placed +on the altar and there prayed to by the Lamas and the people. He only +receives the prayers, hopes, tears, woe and desperation of the people, +immobilely gazing into space with his sharp and bright but blind +eyes. At various times in the service the Lamas robe him in different +vestments, combinations of yellow and red, and change his caps. The +service always finishes at the solemn moment when the Living Buddha +with the tiara on his head pronounces the pontifical blessing upon +the congregation, turning his face to all four cardinal points of the +compass and finally stretching out his hands toward the northwest, that +is, to Europe, whither in the belief of the Yellow Faith must travel the +teachings of the wise Buddha. + +After earnest prayers or long temple services the Pontiff seems very +deeply shaken and often calls his secretaries and dictates his visions +and prophecies, always very complicated and unaccompanied by his +deductions. + +Sometimes with the words “Their souls are communicating,” he puts on his +white robes and goes to pray in his shrine. Then all the gates of the +palace are shut and all the Lamas are sunk in solemn, mystic fear; all +are praying, telling their rosaries and whispering the orison: “Om! +Mani padme Hung!” or turning the prayer wheels with their prayers or +exorcisings; the fortune tellers read their horoscopes; the clairvoyants +write out their visions; while Marambas search the ancient books for +explanations of the words of the Living Buddha. + + +CHAPTER XLI + +THE DUST OF CENTURIES + + +Have you ever seen the dusty cobwebs and the mould in the cellars of +some ancient castle in Italy, France or England? This is the dust of +centuries. Perhaps it touched the faces, helmets and swords of a Roman +Augustus, St. Louis, the Inquisitor, Galileo or King Richard. Your heart +is involuntarily contracted and you feel a respect for these witnesses +of elapsed ages. This same impression came to me in Ta Kure, perhaps +more deep, more realistic. Here life flows on almost as it flowed eight +centuries ago; here man lives only in the past; and the contemporary +only complicates and prevents the normal life. + +“Today is a great day,” the Living Buddha once said to me, “the day of +the victory of Buddhism over all other religions. It was a long time +ago--on this day Kublai Khan called to him the Lamas of all religions +and ordered them to state to him how and what they believed. They +praised their Gods and their Hutuktus. Discussions and quarrels began. +Only one Lama remained silent. At last he mockingly smiled and said: + +“‘Great Emperor! Order each to prove the power of his Gods by the +performance of a miracle and afterwards judge and choose.’ + +“Kublai Khan so ordered all the Lamas to show him a miracle but all were +silent, confused and powerless before him. + +“‘Now,’ said the Emperor, addressing the Lama who had tendered this +suggestion, ‘now you must prove the power of your Gods!’ + +“The Lama looked long and silently at the Emperor, turned and gazed at +the whole assembly and then quietly stretched out his hand toward them. +At this instant the golden goblet of the Emperor raised itself from +the table and tipped before the lips of the Khan without a visible hand +supporting it. The Emperor felt the delight of a fragrant wine. All were +struck with astonishment and the Emperor spoke: + +“‘I elect to pray to your Gods and to them all people subject to me must +pray. What is your faith? Who are you and from where do you come?’ + +“‘My faith is the teaching of the wise Buddha. I am Pandita Lama, Turjo +Gamba, from the distant and glorious monastery of Sakkia in Tibet, where +dwells incarnate in a human body the Spirit of Buddha, his Wisdom and +his Power. Remember, Emperor, that the peoples who hold our faith shall +possess all the Western Universe and during eight hundred and eleven +years shall spread their faith throughout the whole world.’ + +“Thus it happened on this same day many centuries ago! Lama Turjo Gamba +did not return to Tibet but lived here in Ta Kure, where there was then +only a small temple. From here he traveled to the Emperor at Karakorum +and afterwards with him to the capital of China to fortify him in +the Faith, to predict the fate of state affairs and to enlighten him +according to the will of God.” + +The Living Buddha was silent for a time, whispered a prayer and then +continued: + +“Urga, the ancient nest of Buddhism. . . . With Jenghiz Khan on his +European conquest went out the Olets or Kalmucks. They remained there +almost four hundred years, living on the plains of Russia. Then they +returned to Mongolia because the Yellow Lamas called them to light +against the Kings of Tibet, Lamas of the ‘red caps,’ who were oppressing +the people. The Kalmucks helped the Yellow Faith but they realized that +Lhasa was too distant from the whole world and could not spread our +Faith throughout the earth. Consequently the Kalmuck Gushi Khan brought +up from Tibet a holy Lama, Undur Gheghen, who had visited the ‘King of +the World.’ From that day the Bogdo Gheghen has continuously lived in +Urga, a protector of the freedom of Mongolia and of the Chinese Emperors +of Mongolian origin. Undur Gheghen was the first Living Buddha in the +land of the Mongols. He left to us, his successors, the ring of Jenghiz +Khan, which was sent by Kublai Khan to Dalai Lama in return for the +miracle shown by the Lama Turjo Gamba; also the top of the skull of +a black, mysterious miracle worker from India, using which as a bowl, +Strongtsan, King of Tibet, drank during the temple ceremonies one +thousand six hundred years ago; as well as an ancient stone statue of +Buddha brought from Delhi by the founder of the Yellow Faith, Paspa.” + +The Bogdo clapped his hands and one of the secretaries took from a red +kerchief a big silver key with which he unlocked the chest with the +seals. The Living Buddha slipped his hand into the chest and drew forth +a small box of carved ivory, from which he took out and showed to me a +large gold ring set with a magnificent ruby carved with the sign of the +swastika. + +“This ring was always worn on the right hand of the Khans Jenghiz and +Kublai,” said the Bogdo. + +When the secretary had closed the chest, the Bogdo ordered him to +summon his favorite Maramba, whom he directed to read some pages from an +ancient book lying on the table. The Lama began to read monotonously. + +“When Gushi Khan, the Chief of all the Olets or Kalmucks, finished the +war with the ‘Red Caps’ in Tibet, he carried out with him the miraculous +‘black stone’ sent to the Dalai Lama by the ‘King of the World.’ Gushi +Khan wanted to create in Western Mongolia the capital of the Yellow +Faith; but the Olets at that time were at war with the Manchu Emperors +for the throne of China and suffered one defeat after another. The last +Khan of the Olets, Amursana, ran away into Russia but before his escape +sent to Urga the sacred ‘black stone.’ While it remained in Urga so that +the Living Buddha could bless the people with it, disease and misfortune +never touched the Mongolians and their cattle. About one hundred years +ago, however, some one stole the sacred stone and since then Buddhists +have vainly sought it throughout the whole world. With its disappearance +the Mongol people began gradually to die.” + +“Enough!” ordered Bogdo Gheghen. “Our neighbors hold us in contempt. +They forget that we were their sovereigns but we preserve our holy +traditions and we know that the day of triumph of the Mongolian tribes +and the Yellow Faith will come. We have the Protectors of the Faith, the +Buriats. They are the truest guardians of the bequests of Jenghiz Khan.” + +So spoke the Living Buddha and so have spoken the ancient books! + + +CHAPTER XLII + +THE BOOKS OF MIRACLES + + +Prince Djam Bolon asked a Maramba to show us the library of the Living +Buddha. It is a big room occupied by scores of writers who prepare the +works dealing with the miracles of all the Living Buddhas, beginning +with Undur Gheghen and ending with those of the Gheghens and Hutuktus of +the different Mongol monasteries. These books are afterwards distributed +through all the Lama Monasteries, temples and schools of Bandi. A +Maramba read two selections: + +“. . . The beatific Bogdo Gheghen breathed on a mirror. Immediately +as through a haze there appeared the picture of a valley in which many +thousands of thousands of warriors fought one against another. . . .” + +“The wise and favored-of-the-gods Living Buddha burned incense in a +brazier and prayed to the Gods to reveal the lot of the Princes. In the +blue smoke all saw a dark prison and the pallid, tortured bodies of the +dead Princes. . . .” + +A special book, already done into thousands of copies, dwelt upon the +miracles of the present Living Buddha. Prince Djam Bolon described to me +some of the contents of this volume. + +“There exists an ancient wooden Buddha with open eyes. He was brought +here from India and Bogdo Gheghen placed him on the altar and began to +pray. When he returned from the shrine, he ordered the statue of Buddha +brought out. All were struck with amazement, for the eyes of the God +were shut and tears were falling from them; from the wooden body green +sprouts appeared; and the Bogdo said: + +“‘Woe and joy are awaiting me. I shall become blind but Mongolia will be +free.’ + +“The prophecy is fulfilled. At another time, on a day when the Living +Buddha was very much excited, he ordered a basin of water brought and +set before the altar. He called the Lamas and began to pray. Suddenly +the altar candles and lamps lighted themselves and the water in the +basin became iridescent.” + +Afterwards the Prince described to me how the Bogdo Khan tells fortunes +with fresh blood, upon whose surface appear words and pictures; with the +entrails of sheep and goats, according to whose distribution the Bogdo +reads the fate of the Princes and knows their thoughts; with stones and +bones from which the Living Buddha with great accuracy reads the lot of +all men; and by the stars, in accordance with whose positions the Bogdo +prepares amulets against bullets and disease. + +“The former Bogdo Khans told fortunes only by the use of the ‘black +stone,’” said the Maramba. “On the surface of the stone appeared Tibetan +inscriptions which the Bogdo read and thus learned the lot of whole +nations.” + +When the Maramba spoke of the black stone with the Tibetan legends +appearing on it, I at once recalled that it was possible. In +southeastern Urianhai, in Ulan Taiga, I came across a place where black +slate was decomposing. All the pieces of this slate were covered with a +special white lichen, which formed very complicated designs, reminding +me of a Venetian lace pattern or whole pages of mysterious runes. When +the slate was wet, these designs disappeared; and then, as they were +dried, the patterns came out again. + +Nobody has the right or dares to ask the Living Buddha to tell his +fortune. He predicts only when he feels the inspiration or when a +special delegate comes to him bearing a request for it from the Dalai +Lama or the Tashi Lama. When the Russian Czar, Alexander I, fell under +the influence of Baroness Kzudener and of her extreme mysticism, +he despatched a special envoy to the Living Buddha to ask about his +destiny. The then Bogdo Khan, quite a young man, told his fortune +according to the “black stone” and predicted that the White Czar would +finish his life in very painful wanderings unknown to all and everywhere +pursued. In Russia today there exists a popular belief that Alexander +I spent the last days of his life as a wanderer throughout Russia and +Siberia under the pseudonym of Feodor Kusmitch, helping and consoling +prisoners, beggars and other suffering people, often pursued and +imprisoned by the police and finally dying at Tomsk in Siberia, where +even until now they have preserved the house where he spent his +last days and have kept his grave sacred, a place of pilgrimages and +miracles. The former dynasty of Romanoff was deeply interested in the +biography of Feodor Kusmitch and this interest fixed the opinion that +Kusmitch was really the Czar Alexander I, who had voluntarily taken upon +himself this severe penance. + + +CHAPTER XLIII + +THE BIRTH OF THE LIVING BUDDHA + + +The Living Buddha does not die. His soul sometimes passes into that of +a child born on the day of his death and sometimes transfers itself to +another being during the life of the Buddha. This new mortal dwelling +of the sacred spirit of the Buddha almost always appears in the yurta +of some poor Tibetan or Mongol family. There is a reason of policy for +this. If the Buddha appears in the family of a rich prince, it could +result in the elevation of a family that would not yield obedience to +the clergy (and such has happened in the past), while on the other +hand any poor, unknown family that becomes the heritor of the throne +of Jenghiz Khan acquires riches and is readily submissive to the Lamas. +Only three or four Living Buddhas were of purely Mongolian origin; the +remainder were Tibetans. + +One of the Councillors of the Living Buddha, Lama-Khan Jassaktu, told me +the following: + +“In the monasteries at Lhasa and Tashi Lumpo they are kept constantly +informed through letters from Urga about the health of the Living +Buddha. When his human body becomes old and the Spirit of Buddha strives +to extricate itself, special solemn services begin in the Tibetan +temples together with the telling of fortunes by astrology. These rites +indicate the specially pious Lamas who must discover where the Spirit +of the Buddha will be re-incarnated. For this purpose they travel +throughout the whole land and observe. Often God himself gives them +signs and indications. Sometimes the white wolf appears near the yurta +of a poor shepherd or a lamb with two heads is born or a meteor falls +from the sky. Some Lamas take fish from the sacred lake Tangri Nor and +read on the scales thereof the name of the new Bogdo Khan; others pick +out stones whose cracks indicate to them where they must search and +whom they must find; while others secrete themselves in narrow mountain +ravines to listen to the voices of the spirits of the mountains, +pronouncing the name of the new choice of the Gods. When he is found, +all the possible information about his family is secretly collected and +presented to the Most Learned Tashi Lama, having the name of Erdeni, +“The Great Gem of Learning,” who, according to the runes of Rama, +verifies the selection. If he is in agreement with it, he sends a secret +letter to the Dalai Lama, who holds a special sacrifice in the Temple of +the ‘Spirit of the Mountains’ and confirms the election by putting his +great seal on this letter of the Tashi Lama. + +“If the old Living Buddha be still alive, the name of his successor is +kept a deep secret; if the Spirit of Buddha has already gone out from +the body of Bogdo Khan, a special legation appears from Tibet with the +new Living Buddha. The same process accompanies the election of the +Gheghen and Hutuktus in all the Lamaite monasteries in Mongolia; but +confirmation of the election resides with the Living Buddha and is only +announced to Lhasa after the event.” + + +CHAPTER XLIV + +A PAGE IN THE HISTORY OF THE PRESENT LIVING BUDDHA + + +The present Bogdo Khan of Outer Mongolia is a Tibetan. He sprang from a +poor family living in the neighborhood of Sakkia Kure in western Tibet. +From earliest youth he had a stormy, quite unaesthetic nature. He was +fired with the idea of the independence and glorification of Mongolia +and the successors of Jenghiz Khan. This gave him at once a great +influence among the Lamas, Princes and Khans of Mongolia and also with +the Russian Government which always tried to attract him to their side. +He did not fear to arraign himself against the Manchu dynasty in China +and always had the help of Russia, Tibet, the Buriats and Kirghiz, +furnishing him with money, weapons, warriors and diplomatic aid. The +Chinese Emperors avoided open war with the Living God, because it might +arouse the protests of the Chinese Buddhists. At one time they sent to +the Bogdo Khan a skilful doctor-poisoner. The Living Buddha, however, at +once understood the meaning of this medical attention and, knowing the +power of Asiatic poisons, decided to make a journey through the Mongol +monasteries and through Tibet. As his substitute he left a Hubilgan who +made friends with the Chinese doctor and inquired from him the purposes +and details of his arrival. Very soon the Chinese died from some unknown +cause and the Living Buddha returned to his comfortable capital. + +On another occasion danger threatened the Living God. It was when Lhasa +decided that the Bogdo Khan was carrying out a policy too independent of +Tibet. The Dalai Lama began negotiations with several Khans and Princes +with the Sain Noion Khan and Jassaktu Khan leading the movement and +persuaded them to accelerate the immigration of the Spirit of Buddha +into another human form. They came to Urga where the Bogdo Khan met +them with honors and rejoicings. A great feast was made for them and the +conspirators already felt themselves the accomplishers of the orders +of the Dalai Lama. However, at the end of the feast, they had different +feelings and died with them during the night. The Living Buddha ordered +their bodies sent with full honors to their families. + +The Bogdo Khan knows every thought, every movement of the Princes and +Khans, the slightest conspiracy against himself, and the offender is +usually kindly invited to Urga, from where he does not return alive. + +The Chinese Government decided to terminate the line of the Living +Buddhas. Ceasing to fight with the Pontiff of Urga, the Government +contrived the following scheme for accomplishing its ends. + +Peking invited the Pandita Gheghen from Dolo Nor and the head of the +Chinese Lamaites, the Hutuktu of Utai, both of whom do not recognize the +supremacy of the Living Buddha, to come to the capital. They decided, +after consulting the old Buddhistic books, that the present Bogdo Khan +was to be the last Living Buddha, because that part of the Spirit of +Buddha which dwells in the Bogdo Khans can abide only thirty-one times +in the human body. Bogdo Khan is the thirty-first Incarnated Buddha from +the time of Undur Gheghen and with him, therefore, the dynasty of +the Urga Pontiffs must cease. However, on hearing this the Bogdo Khan +himself did some research work and found in the old Tibetan manuscripts +that one of the Tibetan Pontiffs was married and his son was a natural +Incarnated Buddha. So the Bogdo Khan married and now has a son, a +very capable and energetic young man, and thus the religious throne of +Jenghiz Khan will not be left empty. The dynasty of the Chinese emperors +disappeared from the stage of political events but the Living Buddha +continues to be a center for the Pan-Asiatic idea. + +The new Chinese Government in 1920 held the Living Buddha under arrest +in his palace but at the beginning of 1921 Baron Ungern crossed the +sacred Bogdo-Ol and approached the palace from the rear. Tibetan riders +shot the Chinese sentries with bow and arrow and afterwards the Mongols +penetrated into the palace and stole their “God,” who immediately +stirred up all Mongolia and awakened the hopes of the Asiatic peoples +and tribes. + +In the great palace of the Bogdo a Lama showed me a special casket +covered with a precious carpet, wherein they keep the bulls of the Dalai +and Tashi Lamas, the decrees of the Russian and Chinese Emperors and the +Treaties between Mongolia, Russia, China and Tibet. In this same casket +is the copper plate bearing the mysterious sign of the “King of the +World” and the chronicle of the last vision of the Living Buddha. + + +CHAPTER XLV + +THE VISION OF THE LIVING BUDDHA OF MAY 17, 1921 + + +“I prayed and saw that which is hidden from the eyes of the people. A +vast plain was spread before me surrounded by distant mountains. An old +Lama carried a basket filled with heavy stones. He hardly moved. From +the north a rider appeared in white robes and mounted on a white horse. +He approached the Lama and said to him: + +“‘Give me your basket. I shall help you to carry them to the Kure.’ + +“The Lama handed his heavy burden up to him but the rider could not +raise it to his saddle so that the old Lama had to place it back on his +shoulder and continue on his way, bent under its heavy weight. Then from +the north came another rider in black robes and on a black horse, who +also approached the Lama and said: + +“‘Stupid! Why do you carry these stones when they are everywhere about +the ground?’ + +“With these words he pushed the Lama over with the breast of his horse +and scattered the stones about the ground. When the stones touched the +earth, they became diamonds. All three rushed to raise them but not +one of them could break them loose from the ground. Then the old Lama +exclaimed: + +“‘Oh Gods! All my life I have carried this heavy burden and now, when +there was left so little to go, I have lost it. Help me, great, good +Gods!’ + +“Suddenly a tottering old man appeared. He collected all the diamonds +into the basket without trouble, cleaned the dust from them, raised the +burden to his shoulder and started out, speaking with the Lama: + +“‘Rest a while, I have just carried my burden to the goal and I am glad +to help you with yours.’ + +“They went on and were soon out of sight, while the riders began to +fight. They fought one whole day and then the whole night and, when the +sun rose over the plain, neither was there, either alive or dead, and no +trace of either remained. This I saw, Bogdo Hutuktu Khan, speaking with +the Great and Wise Buddha, surrounded by the good and bad demons! Wise +Lamas, Hutuktus, Kampos, Marambas and Holy Gheghens, give the answer to +my vision!” + +This was written in my presence on May 17th, 1921, from the words of the +Living Buddha just as he came out of his private shrine to his study. +I do not know what the Hutuktu and Gheghens, the fortune tellers, +sorcerers and clairvoyants replied to him; but does not the answer seem +clear, if one realizes the present situation in Asia? + +Awakened Asia is full of enigmas but it is also full of answers to +the questions set by the destiny of humankind. This great continent of +mysterious Pontiffs, Living Gods, Mahatmas and readers of the terrible +book of Karma is awakening and the ocean of hundreds of millions of +human lives is lashed with monstrous waves. + + + + +Part V + +MYSTERY OF MYSTERIES--THE KING OF THE WORLD + + +CHAPTER XLVI + +THE SUBTERRANEAN KINGDOM + + +“Stop!” whispered my old Mongol guide, as we were one day crossing the +plain near Tzagan Luk. “Stop!” + +He slipped from his camel which lay down without his bidding. The Mongol +raised his hands in prayer before his face and began to repeat the +sacred phrase: “Om! Mani padme Hung!” The other Mongols immediately +stopped their camels and began to pray. + +“What has happened?” I thought, as I gazed round over the tender green +grass, up to the cloudless sky and out toward the dreamy soft rays of +the evening sun. + +The Mongols prayed for some time, whispered among themselves and, after +tightening up the packs on the camels, moved on. + +“Did you see,” asked the Mongol, “how our camels moved their ears in +fear? How the herd of horses on the plain stood fixed in attention and +how the herds of sheep and cattle lay crouched close to the ground? Did +you notice that the birds did not fly, the marmots did not run and the +dogs did not bark? The air trembled softly and bore from afar the music +of a song which penetrated to the hearts of men, animals and birds +alike. Earth and sky ceased breathing. The wind did not blow and the sun +did not move. At such a moment the wolf that is stealing up on the sheep +arrests his stealthy crawl; the frightened herd of antelopes suddenly +checks its wild course; the knife of the shepherd cutting the sheep’s +throat falls from his hand; the rapacious ermine ceases to stalk the +unsuspecting salga. All living beings in fear are involuntarily thrown +into prayer and waiting for their fate. So it was just now. Thus it has +always been whenever the King of the World in his subterranean palace +prays and searches out the destiny of all peoples on the earth.” + +In this wise the old Mongol, a simple, coarse shepherd and hunter, spoke +to me. + +Mongolia with her nude and terrible mountains, her limitless plains, +covered with the widely strewn bones of the forefathers, gave birth +to Mystery. Her people, frightened by the stormy passions of Nature or +lulled by her deathlike peace, feel her mystery. Her “Red” and “Yellow +Lamas” preserve and poetize her mystery. The Pontiffs of Lhasa and Urga +know and possess her mystery. + +On my journey into Central Asia I came to know for the first time about +“the Mystery of Mysteries,” which I can call by no other name. At the +outset I did not pay much attention to it and did not attach to it such +importance as I afterwards realized belonged to it, when I had analyzed +and connoted many sporadic, hazy and often controversial bits of +evidence. + +The old people on the shore of the River Amyl related to me an ancient +legend to the effect that a certain Mongolian tribe in their escape from +the demands of Jenghiz Khan hid themselves in a subterranean country. +Afterwards a Soyot from near the Lake of Nogan Kul showed me the smoking +gate that serves as the entrance to the “Kingdom of Agharti.” Through +this gate a hunter formerly entered into the Kingdom and, after his +return, began to relate what he had seen there. The Lamas cut out +his tongue in order to prevent him from telling about the Mystery of +Mysteries. When he arrived at old age, he came back to the entrance of +this cave and disappeared into the subterranean kingdom, the memory of +which had ornamented and lightened his nomad heart. + +I received more realistic information about this from Hutuktu Jelyb +Djamsrap in Narabanchi Kure. He told me the story of the semi-realistic +arrival of the powerful King of the World from the subterranean kingdom, +of his appearance, of his miracles and of his prophecies; and only then +did I begin to understand that in that legend, hypnosis or mass vision, +whichever it may be, is hidden not only mystery but a realistic and +powerful force capable of influencing the course of the political life +of Asia. From that moment I began making some investigations. + +The favorite Gelong Lama of Prince Chultun Beyli and the Prince himself +gave me an account of the subterranean kingdom. + +“Everything in the world,” said the Gelong, “is constantly in a state of +change and transition--peoples science, religions, laws and customs. How +many great empires and brilliant cultures have perished! And that alone +which remains unchanged is Evil, the tool of Bad Spirits. More than +sixty thousand years ago a Holyman disappeared with a whole tribe of +people under the ground and never appeared again on the surface of the +earth. Many people, however, have since visited this kingdom, Sakkia +Mouni, Undur Gheghen, Paspa, Khan Baber and others. No one knows where +this place is. One says Afghanistan, others India. All the people there +are protected against Evil and crimes do not exist within its bournes. +Science has there developed calmly and nothing is threatened with +destruction. The subterranean people have reached the highest knowledge. +Now it is a large kingdom, millions of men with the King of the World +as their ruler. He knows all the forces of the world and reads all the +souls of humankind and the great book of their destiny. Invisibly he +rules eight hundred million men on the surface of the earth and they +will accomplish his every order.” + +Prince Chultun Beyli added: “This kingdom is Agharti. It extends +throughout all the subterranean passages of the whole world. I heard a +learned Lama of China relating to Bogdo Khan that all the subterranean +caves of America are inhabited by the ancient people who have +disappeared underground. Traces of them are still found on the surface +of the land. These subterranean peoples and spaces are governed by +rulers owing allegiance to the King of the World. In it there is not +much of the wonderful. You know that in the two greatest oceans of the +east and the west there were formerly two continents. They disappeared +under the water but their people went into the subterranean kingdom. In +underground caves there exists a peculiar light which affords growth to +the grains and vegetables and long life without disease to the people. +There are many different peoples and many different tribes. An old +Buddhist Brahman in Nepal was carrying out the will of the Gods in +making a visit to the ancient kingdom of Jenghiz,--Siam,--where he met a +fisherman who ordered him to take a place in his boat and sail with him +upon the sea. On the third day they reached an island where he met a +people having two tongues which could speak separately in different +languages. They showed to him peculiar, unfamiliar animals, tortoises +with sixteen feet and one eye, huge snakes with a very tasty flesh and +birds with teeth which caught fish for their masters in the sea. These +people told him that they had come up out of the subterranean kingdom +and described to him certain parts of the underground country.” + +The Lama Turgut traveling with me from Urga to Peking gave me further +details. + +“The capital of Agharti is surrounded with towns of high priests and +scientists. It reminds one of Lhasa where the palace of the Dalai +Lama, the Potala, is the top of a mountain covered with monasteries and +temples. The throne of the King of the World is surrounded by millions +of incarnated Gods. They are the Holy Panditas. The palace itself is +encircled by the palaces of the Goro, who possess all the visible and +invisible forces of the earth, of inferno and of the sky and who can do +everything for the life and death of man. If our mad humankind should +begin a war against them, they would be able to explode the whole +surface of our planet and transform it into deserts. They can dry up +the seas, transform lands into oceans and scatter the mountains into the +sands of the deserts. By his order trees, grasses and bushes can be made +to grow; old and feeble men can become young and stalwart; and the dead +can be resurrected. In cars strange and unknown to us they rush through +the narrow cleavages inside our planet. Some Indian Brahmans and Tibetan +Dalai Lamas during their laborious struggles to the peaks of mountains +which no other human feet had trod have found there inscriptions carved +on the rocks, footprints in the snow and the tracks of wheels. The +blissful Sakkia Mouni found on one mountain top tablets of stone +carrying words which he only understood in his old age and afterwards +penetrated into the Kingdom of Agharti, from which he brought back +crumbs of the sacred learning preserved in his memory. There in palaces +of wonderful crystal live the invisible rulers of all pious people, the +King of the World or Brahytma, who can speak with God as I speak with +you, and his two assistants, Mahytma, knowing the purposes of future +events, and Mahynga, ruling the causes of these events.” + +“The Holy Panditas study the world and all its forces. Sometimes the +most learned among them collect together and send envoys to that place +where the human eyes have never penetrated. This is described by +the Tashi Lama living eight hundred and fifty years ago. The highest +Panditas place their hands on their eyes and at the base of the brain of +younger ones and force them into a deep sleep, wash their bodies with an +infusion of grass and make them immune to pain and harder than stones, +wrap them in magic cloths, bind them and then pray to the Great God. The +petrified youths lie with eyes and ears open and alert, seeing, hearing +and remembering everything. Afterwards a Goro approaches and fastens a +long, steady gaze upon them. Very slowly the bodies lift themselves from +the earth and disappear. The Goro sits and stares with fixed eyes to the +place whither he has sent them. Invisible threads join them to his will. +Some of them course among the stars, observe their events, their unknown +peoples, their life and their laws. They listen to their talk, read +their books, understand their fortunes and woes, their holiness and +sins, their piety and evil. Some are mingled with flame and see the +creature of fire, quick and ferocious, eternally fighting, melting and +hammering metals in the depths of planets, boiling the water for geysers +and springs, melting the rocks and pushing out molten streams over the +surface of the earth through the holes in the mountains. Others rush +together with the ever elusive, infinitesimally small, transparent +creatures of the air and penetrate into the mysteries of their existence +and into the purposes of their life. Others slip into the depths of the +seas and observe the kingdom of the wise creatures of the water, who +transport and spread genial warmth all over the earth, ruling the winds, +waves and storms. . . . In Erdeni Dzu formerly lived Pandita Hutuktu, +who had come from Agharti. As he was dying, he told about the time when +he lived according to the will of the Goro on a red star in the east, +floated in the ice-covered ocean and flew among the stormy fires in the +depths of the earth.” + +These are the tales which I heard in the Mongolian yurtas of Princes and +in the Lamaite monasteries. These stories were all related in a solemn +tone which forbade challenge and doubt. + +Mystery. . . . + + +CHAPTER XLVII + +THE KING OF THE WORLD BEFORE THE FACE OF GOD + + +During my stay in Urga I tried to find an explanation of this legend +about the King of the World. Of course, the Living Buddha could tell +me most of all and so I endeavored to get the story from him. In a +conversation with him I mentioned the name of the King of the World. +The old Pontiff sharply turned his head toward me and fixed upon me his +immobile, blind eyes. Unwillingly I became silent. Our silence was a +long one and after it the Pontiff continued the conversation in such +a way that I understood he did not wish to accept the suggestion of my +reference. On the faces of the others present I noticed expressions of +astonishment and fear produced by my words, and especially was this +true of the custodian of the library of the Bogdo Khan. One can readily +understand that all this only made me the more anxious to press the +pursuit. + +As I was leaving the study of the Bogdo Hutuktu, I met the librarian +who had stepped out ahead of me and asked him if he would show me the +library of the Living Buddha and used a very simple, sly trick with him. + +“Do you know, my dear Lama,” I said, “once I rode in the plain at the +hour when the King of the World spoke with God and I felt the impressive +majesty of this moment.” + +To my astonishment the old Lama very quietly answered me: “It is not +right that the Buddhist and our Yellow Faith should conceal it. The +acknowledgment of the existence of the most holy and most powerful man, +of the blissful kingdom, of the great temple of sacred science is such +a consolation to our sinful hearts and our corrupt lives that to +conceal it from humankind is a sin. . . . Well, listen,” he continued, +“throughout the whole year the King of the World guides the work of the +Panditas and Goros of Agharti. Only at times he goes to the temple cave +where the embalmed body of his predecessor lies in a black stone coffin. +This cave is always dark, but when the King of the World enters it +the walls are striped with fire and from the lid of the coffin appear +tongues of flame. The eldest Goro stands before him with covered head +and face and with hands folded across his chest. This Goro never removes +the covering from his face, for his head is a nude skull with living +eyes and a tongue that speaks. He is in communion with the souls of all +who have gone before. + +“The King of the World prays for a long time and afterwards approaches +the coffin and stretches out his hand. The flames thereon burn brighter; +the stripes of fire on the walls disappear and revive, interlace and +form mysterious signs from the alphabet vatannan. From the coffin +transparent bands of scarcely noticeable light begin to flow forth. +These are the thoughts of his predecessor. Soon the King of the World +stands surrounded by an auriole of this light and fiery letters write +and write upon the walls the wishes and orders of God. At this moment +the King of the World is in contact with the thoughts of all the men who +influence the lot and life of all humankind: with Kings, Czars, Khans, +warlike leaders, High Priests, scientists and other strong men. He +realizes all their thoughts and plans. If these be pleasing before God, +the King of the World will invisibly help them; if they are unpleasant +in the sight of God, the King will bring them to destruction. This power +is given to Agharti by the mysterious science of ‘Om,’ with which we +begin all our prayers. ‘Om’ is the name of an ancient Holyman, the first +Goro, who lived three hundred thirty thousand years ago. He was the +first man to know God and who taught humankind to believe, hope and +struggle with Evil. Then God gave him power over all forces ruling the +visible world. + +“After his conversation with his predecessor the King of the World +assembles the ‘Great Council of God,’ judges the actions and thoughts +of great men, helps them or destroys them. Mahytma and Mahynga find the +place for these actions and thoughts in the causes ruling the world. +Afterwards the King of the World enters the great temple and prays in +solitude. Fire appears on the altar, gradually spreading to all the +altars near, and through the burning flame gradually appears the face of +God. The King of the World reverently announces to God the decisions and +awards of the ‘Council of God’ and receives in turn the Divine orders of +the Almighty. As he comes forth from the temple, the King of the World +radiates with Divine Light.” + + +CHAPTER XLVIII + +REALITY OR RELIGIOUS FANTASY? + + +“Has anybody seen the King of the World?” I asked. + +“Oh, yes!” answered the Lama. “During the solemn holidays of the ancient +Buddhism in Siam and India the King of the World appeared five times. +He rode in a splendid car drawn by white elephants and ornamented with +gold, precious stones and finest fabrics; he was robed in a white mantle +and red tiara with strings of diamonds masking his face. He blessed the +people with a golden apple with the figure of a Lamb above it. The +blind received their sight, the dumb spoke, the deaf heard, the crippled +freely moved and the dead arose, wherever the eyes of the King of the +World rested. He also appeared five hundred and forty years ago in +Erdeni Dzu, he was in the ancient Sakkai Monastery and in the Narabanchi +Kure. + +“One of our Living Buddhas and one of the Tashi Lamas received a message +from him, written with unknown signs on golden tablets. No one could +read these signs. The Tashi Lama entered the temple, placed the golden +tablet on his head and began to pray. With this the thoughts of the +King of the World penetrated his brain and, without having read the +enigmatical signs, he understood and accomplished the message of the +King.” + +“How many persons have ever been to Agharti?” I questioned him. + +“Very many,” answered the Lama, “but all these people have kept secret +that which they saw there. When the Olets destroyed Lhasa, one of their +detachments in the southwestern mountains penetrated to the outskirts +of Agharti. Here they learned some of the lesser mysterious sciences +and brought them to the surface of our earth. This is why the Olets +and Kalmucks are artful sorcerers and prophets. Also from the eastern +country some tribes of black people penetrated to Agharti and lived +there many centuries. Afterwards they were thrust out from the kingdom +and returned to the earth, bringing with them the mystery of predictions +according to cards, grasses and the lines of the palm. They are the +Gypsies. . . . Somewhere in the north of Asia a tribe exists which is +now dying and which came from the cave of Agharti, skilled in calling +back the spirits of the dead as they float through the air.” + +The Lama was silent and afterwards, as though answering my thoughts, +continued. + +“In Agharti the learned Panditas write on tablets of stone all the +science of our planet and of the other worlds. The Chinese learned +Buddhists know this. Their science is the highest and purest. Every +century one hundred sages of China collect in a secret place on +the shores of the sea, where from its depths come out one hundred +eternally-living tortoises. On their shells the Chinese write all the +developments of the divine science of the century.” + +As I write I am involuntarily reminded of a tale of an old Chinese bonze +in the Temple of Heaven at Peking. He told me that tortoises live more +than three thousand years without food and air and that this is the +reason why all the columns of the blue Temple of Heaven were set on live +tortoises to preserve the wood from decay. + +“Several times the Pontiffs of Lhasa and Urga have sent envoys to the +King of the World,” said the Lama librarian, “but they could not find +him. Only a certain Tibetan leader after a battle with the Olets found +the cave with the inscription: ‘This is the gate to Agharti.’ From the +cave a fine appearing man came forth, presented him with a gold tablet +bearing the mysterious signs and said: + +“‘The King of the World will appear before all people when the time +shall have arrived for him to lead all the good people of the world +against all the bad; but this time has not yet come. The most evil among +mankind have not yet been born. + +“Chiang Chun Baron Ungern sent the young Prince Pounzig to seek out the +King of the World but he returned with a letter from the Dalai Lama from +Lhasa. When the Baron sent him a second time, he did not come back.” + + +CHAPTER XLIX + +THE PROPHECY OF THE KING OF THE WORLD IN 1890 + + +The Hutuktu of Narabanchi related the following to me, when I visited +him in his monastery in the beginning of 1921: + +“When the King of the World appeared before the Lamas, favored of God, +in this monastery thirty years ago he made a prophecy for the coming +half century. It was as follows: + +“‘More and more the people will forget their souls and care about their +bodies. The greatest sin and corruption will reign on the earth. People +will become as ferocious animals, thirsting for the blood and death +of their brothers. The ‘Crescent’ will grow dim and its followers will +descend into beggary and ceaseless war. Its conquerors will be stricken +by the sun but will not progress upward and twice they will be visited +with the heaviest misfortune, which will end in insult before the eye of +the other peoples. The crowns of kings, great and small, will fall . . . +one, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight. . . . There will be +a terrible battle among all the peoples. The seas will become red . . . +the earth and the bottom of the seas will be strewn with bones . . . +kingdoms will be scattered . . . whole peoples will die . . . hunger, +disease, crimes unknown to the law, never before seen in the world. The +enemies of God and of the Divine Spirit in man will come. Those who take +the hand of another shall also perish. The forgotten and pursued shall +rise and hold the attention of the whole world. There will be fogs +and storms. Bare mountains shall suddenly be covered with forests. +Earthquakes will come. . . . Millions will change the fetters of slavery +and humiliation for hunger, disease and death. The ancient roads will +be covered with crowds wandering from one place to another. The greatest +and most beautiful cities shall perish in fire . . . one, two, three. +. . . Father shall rise against son, brother against brother and mother +against daughter. . . . Vice, crime and the destruction of body and soul +shall follow. . . . Families shall be scattered. . . . Truth and love +shall disappear. . . . From ten thousand men one shall remain; he shall +be nude and mad and without force and the knowledge to build him a house +and find his food. . . . He will howl as the raging wolf, devour dead +bodies, bite his own flesh and challenge God to fight. . . . All the +earth will be emptied. God will turn away from it and over it there will +be only night and death. Then I shall send a people, now unknown, which +shall tear out the weeds of madness and vice with a strong hand and will +lead those who still remain faithful to the spirit of man in the fight +against Evil. They will found a new life on the earth purified by the +death of nations. In the fiftieth year only three great kingdoms will +appear, which will exist happily seventy-one years. Afterwards there +will be eighteen years of war and destruction. Then the peoples of +Agharti will come up from their subterranean caverns to the surface of +the earth.’” + +* * * * * + +Afterwards, as I traveled farther through Eastern Mongolia and to +Peking, I often thought: + +“And what if . . . ? What if whole peoples of different colors, faiths +and tribes should begin their migration toward the West?” + +And now, as I write these final lines, my eyes involuntarily turn to +this limitless Heart of Asia over which the trails of my wanderings +twine. Through whirling snow and driving clouds of sand of the Gobi they +travel back to the face of the Narabanchi Hutuktu as, with quiet voice +and a slender hand pointing to the horizon, he opened to me the doors of +his innermost thoughts: + +“Near Karakorum and on the shores of Ubsa Nor I see the huge, +multi-colored camps, the herds of horses and cattle and the blue yurtas +of the leaders. Above them I see the old banners of Jenghiz Khan, of +the Kings of Tibet, Siam, Afghanistan and of Indian Princes; the sacred +signs of all the Lamaite Pontiffs; the coats of arms of the Khans of the +Olets; and the simple signs of the north Mongolian tribes. I do not hear +the noise of the animated crowd. The singers do not sing the mournful +songs of mountain, plain and desert. The young riders are not delighting +themselves with the races on their fleet steeds. . . . There are +innumerable crowds of old men, women and children and beyond in the +north and west, as far as the eye can reach, the sky is red as a flame, +there is the roar and crackling of fire and the ferocious sound of +battle. Who is leading these warriors who there beneath the reddened sky +are shedding their own and others’ blood? Who is leading these crowds +of unarmed old men and women? I see severe order, deep religious +understanding of purposes, patience and tenacity . . . a new great +migration of peoples, the last march of the Mongols. . . .” + +Karma may have opened a new page of history! + +And what if the King of the World be with them? + +But this greatest Mystery of Mysteries keeps its own deep silence. + + +GLOSSARY + + +Agronome.--Russian for trained agriculturalist. + +Amour sayn.--Good-bye. + +Ataman.--Headman or chief of the Cossacks. + +Bandi.--Pupil or student of theological school in the Buddhist faith. + +Buriat.--The most civilized Mongol tribe, living in the valley of the +Selenga in Transbaikalia. + +Chahars.--A warlike Mongolian tribe living along the Great Wall of China +in Inner Mongolia. + +Chaidje.--A high Lamaite priest, but not an incarnate god. + +Cheka.--The Bolshevik Counter-Revolutionary Committee, the most +relentless establishment of the Bolsheviki, organized for the +persecution of the enemies of the Communistic government in Russia. + +Chiang Chun.--Chinese for “General”--Chief of all Chinese troops in +Mongolia. + +Dalai Lama.--The first and highest Pontiff of the Lamaite or “Yellow +Faith,” living at Lhasa in Tibet. + +Djungar.--A West Mongolian tribe. + +Dugun.--Chinese commercial and military post. + +Dzuk.--Lie down! + +Fang-tzu.--Chinese for “house.” + +Fatil.--A very rare and precious root much prized in Chinese and Tibetan +medicines. + +Felcher.--Assistant of a doctor (surgeon). + +Gelong.--Lamaite priest having the right to offer sacrifices to God. + +Getul.--The third rank in the Lamaite monks. + +Goro.--The high priest of the King of the World. + +Hatyk.--An oblong piece of blue (or yellow) silk cloth, presented to +honored guests, chiefs, Lamas and gods. Also a kind of coin, worth from +25 to 50 cents. + +Hong.--A Chinese mercantile establishment. + +Hun.--The lowest rank of princes. + +Hunghutze.--Chinese brigand. + +Hushun.--A fenced enclosure, containing the houses, paddocks, stores, +stables, etc., of Russian Cossacks in Mongolia. + +Hutuktu.--The highest rank of Lamaite monks; the form of any incarnated +god; holy. + +Imouran.--A small rodent like a gopher. + +Izubr.--The American elk. + +Kabarga.--The musk antelope. + +Kalmuck.--A Mongolian tribe, which migrated from Mongolia under Jenghiz +Khan (where they were known as the Olets or Eleuths), and now live in +the Urals and on the shores of the Volga in Russia. + +Kanpo.--The abbot of a Lamaite monastery, a monk; also the first rank of +“white” clergy (not monks). + +Kanpo-Gelong.--The highest rank of Gelongs (q.v.); an honorary title. + +Karma.--The Buddhist materialization of the idea of Fate, a parallel +with the Greek and Roman Nemesis (Justice). + +Khan.--A king. + +Khayrus.--A kind of trout. + +Khirghiz.--The great Mongol nation living between the river Irtish in +western Siberia, Lake Balhash and the Volga in Russia. + +Kuropatka.--A partridge. + +Lama.--The common name for a Lamaite priest. + +Lan.--A weight of silver or gold equivalent to about one-eleventh of a +Russian pound, or 9/110ths of a pound avoirdupois. + +Lanhon.--A round bottle of clay. + +Maramba.--A doctor of theology. + +Merin.--The civil chief of police in every district of the Soyot country +in Urianhai. + +“Om! Mani padme Hung!”.--“Om” has two meanings. It is the name of the +first Goro and also means: “Hail!” In this connection: “Hail! Great Lama +in the Lotus Flower!” + +Mende.--Soyot greeting--“Good Day.” + +Nagan-hushun.--A Chinese vegetable garden or enclosure in Mongolia. + +Naida.--A form of fire used by Siberian woodsmen. + +Noyon.--A Prince or Khan. In polite address: “Chief,” “Excellency.” + +Obo.--The sacred and propitiatory signs in all the dangerous places in +Urianhai and Mongolia. + +Olets.--Vid: Kalmuck. + +Om.--The name of the first Goro (q.v.) and also of the mysterious, magic +science of the Subterranean State. It means, also: “Hail!” + +Orochons.--A Mongolian tribe, living near the shores of the Amur River +in Siberia. + +Oulatchen.--The guard for the post horses; official guide. + +Ourton.--A post station, where the travelers change horses and +oulatchens. + +Pandita.--The high rank of Buddhist monks. + +Panti.--Deer horns in the velvet, highly prized as a Tibetan and Chinese +medicine. + +Pogrom.--A wholesale slaughter of unarmed people; a massacre. + +Paspa.--The founder of the Yellow Sect, predominating now in the Lamaite +faith. + +Sait.--A Mongolian governor. + +Salga.--A sand partridge. + +Sayn.--“Good day!” “Good morning!” “Good evening!” All right; good. + +Taiga.--A Siberian word for forest. + +Taimen.--A species of big trout, reaching 120 pounds. + +Ta Lama.--Literally: “the great priest,” but it means now “a doctor of +medicine.” + +Tashur.--A strong bamboo stick. + +Turpan.--The red wild goose or Lama-goose. + +Tzagan.--White. + +Tzara.--A document, giving the right to receive horses and oulatchens at +the post stations. + +Tsirik.--Mongolian soldiers mobilized by levy. + +Tzuren.--A doctor-poisoner. + +Ulan.--Red. + +Urga.--The name of the capital of Mongolia; (2) a kind of Mongolian +lasso. + +Vatannen.--The language of the Subterranean State of the King of the +World. + +Wapiti.--The American elk. + +Yurta.--The common Mongolian tent or house, made of felt. + +Zahachine.--A West Mongolian wandering tribe. + +Zaberega.--The ice-mountains formed along the shores of a river in +spring. + +Zikkurat.--A high tower of Babylonish style. + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg’s Beasts, Men and Gods, by Ferdinand Ossendowski + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BEASTS, MEN AND GODS *** + +***** This file should be named 2067-0.txt or 2067-0.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/2/0/6/2067/ + +Produced by Donald Lainson + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Beasts, Men and Gods + +Author: Ferdinand Ossendowski + +Translator: Lewis Stanton Palen + +Release Date: May 13, 2006 [EBook #2067] +Last Updated: November 17, 2016 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: UTF-8 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BEASTS, MEN AND GODS *** + + + + +Produced by Donald Lainson; David Widger + + + + + +</pre> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <h1> + BEASTS, MEN AND GODS + </h1> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <h2> + by Ferdinand Ossendowski + </h2> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0001" id="link2H_4_0001"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> <br /> <br /> + </p> + <h2> + EXPLANATORY NOTE + </h2> + <p> + When one of the leading publicists in America, Dr. Albert Shaw of the + Review of Reviews, after reading the manuscript of Part I of this volume, + characterized the author as “The Robinson Crusoe of the Twentieth + Century,” he touched the feature of the narrative which is at once most + attractive and most dangerous; for the succession of trying and thrilling + experiences recorded seems in places too highly colored to be real or, + sometimes, even possible in this day and generation. I desire, therefore, + to assure the reader at the outset that Dr. Ossendowski is a man of long + and diverse experience as a scientist and writer with a training for + careful observation which should put the stamp of accuracy and reliability + on his chronicle. Only the extraordinary events of these extraordinary + times could have thrown one with so many talents back into the + surroundings of the “Cave Man” and thus given to us this unusual account + of personal adventure, of great human mysteries and of the political and + religious motives which are energizing the “Heart of Asia.” + </p> + <p> + My share in the work has been to induce Dr. Ossendowski to write his story + at this time and to assist him in rendering his experiences into English. + </p> + <p> + LEWIS STANTON PALEN. <br /> <br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <blockquote> + <p class="toc"> + <big><b>CONTENTS</b></big> + </p> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0001"> EXPLANATORY NOTE </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0006"> <big><b>BEASTS, MEN AND GODS</b></big> </a> + </p> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_PART1"> <b>Part I: DRAWING LOTS WITH DEATH</b> </a> + </p> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0001"> CHAPTER I </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0002"> CHAPTER II </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0003"> CHAPTER III </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0004"> CHAPTER IV </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0005"> CHAPTER V </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0006"> CHAPTER VI </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0007"> CHAPTER VII </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0008"> CHAPTER VIII </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0009"> CHAPTER IX </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0010"> CHAPTER X </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0011"> CHAPTER XI </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0012"> CHAPTER XII </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0013"> CHAPTER XIII </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0014"> CHAPTER XIV </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0015"> CHAPTER XV </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0016"> CHAPTER XVI </a> + </p> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_PART2"> <b>Part II: THE LAND OF DEMONS</b> </a> + </p> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0017"> CHAPTER XVII </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0018"> CHAPTER XVIII </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0019"> CHAPTER XIX </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0020"> CHAPTER XX </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0021"> CHAPTER XXI </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0022"> CHAPTER XXII </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0023"> CHAPTER XXIII </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0024"> CHAPTER XXIV </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0025"> CHAPTER XXV </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0026"> CHAPTER XXVI </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0027"> CHAPTER XXVII </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0028"> CHAPTER XXVIII </a> + </p> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_PART3"> <b>Part III: THE STRAINING HEART OF ASIA</b> + </a> + </p> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0029"> CHAPTER XXIX </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0030"> CHAPTER XXX </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0031"> CHAPTER XXXI </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0032"> CHAPTER XXXII </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0033"> CHAPTER XXXIII </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0034"> CHAPTER XXXIV </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0035"> CHAPTER XXXV </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0036"> CHAPTER XXXVI </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0037"> CHAPTER XXXVII </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0038"> CHAPTER XXXVIII </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0039"> CHAPTER XXXIX </a> + </p> + <p> + <br /> <br /> <br /> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_PART4"> <b>Part IV: THE LIVING BUDDHA</b> </a> + </p> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0040"> CHAPTER XL </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0041"> CHAPTER XLI </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0042"> CHAPTER XLII </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0043"> CHAPTER XLIII </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0044"> CHAPTER XLIV </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0045"> CHAPTER XLV </a> + </p> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_PART5"> <b>Part V: MYSTERY OF MYSTERIES—THE KING + OF THE WORLD</b> </a> + </p> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0046"> CHAPTER XLVI </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0047"> CHAPTER XLVII </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0048"> CHAPTER XLVIII </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0049"> CHAPTER XLIX </a> + </p> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_GLOS"> <b>GLOSSARY</b> </a> + </p> + </blockquote> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <blockquote> + <p> + There are times, men and events about which History alone can record the + final judgments; contemporaries and individual observers must only write + what they have seen and heard. The very truth demands it. + </p> + <p> + TITUS LIVIUS. + </p> + </blockquote> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0006" id="link2H_4_0006"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + BEASTS, MEN AND GODS + </h2> + <p> + <a name="link2H_PART1" id="link2H_PART1"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Part I + </h2> + <h3> + DRAWING LOTS WITH DEATH + </h3> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0001" id="link2HCH0001"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER I + </h2> + <h3> + INTO THE FORESTS + </h3> + <p> + In the beginning of the year 1920 I happened to be living in the Siberian + town of Krasnoyarsk, situated on the shores of the River Yenisei, that + noble stream which is cradled in the sun-bathed mountains of Mongolia to + pour its warming life into the Arctic Ocean and to whose mouth Nansen has + twice come to open the shortest road for commerce from Europe to the heart + of Asia. There in the depths of the still Siberian winter I was suddenly + caught up in the whirling storm of mad revolution raging all over Russia, + sowing in this peaceful and rich land vengeance, hate, bloodshed and + crimes that go unpunished by the law. No one could tell the hour of his + fate. The people lived from day to day and left their homes not knowing + whether they should return to them or whether they should be dragged from + the streets and thrown into the dungeons of that travesty of courts, the + Revolutionary Committee, more terrible and more bloody than those of the + Mediaeval Inquisition. We who were strangers in this distraught land were + not saved from its persecutions and I personally lived through them. + </p> + <p> + One morning, when I had gone out to see a friend, I suddenly received the + news that twenty Red soldiers had surrounded my house to arrest me and + that I must escape. I quickly put on one of my friend’s old hunting suits, + took some money and hurried away on foot along the back ways of the town + till I struck the open road, where I engaged a peasant, who in four hours + had driven me twenty miles from the town and set me down in the midst of a + deeply forested region. On the way I bought a rifle, three hundred + cartridges, an ax, a knife, a sheepskin overcoat, tea, salt, dry bread and + a kettle. I penetrated into the heart of the wood to an abandoned + half-burned hut. From this day I became a genuine trapper but I never + dreamed that I should follow this role as long as I did. The next morning + I went hunting and had the good fortune to kill two heathcock. I found + deer tracks in plenty and felt sure that I should not want for food. + However, my sojourn in this place was not for long. Five days later when I + returned from hunting I noticed smoke curling up out of the chimney of my + hut. I stealthily crept along closer to the cabin and discovered two + saddled horses with soldiers’ rifles slung to the saddles. Two disarmed + men were not dangerous for me with a weapon, so I quickly rushed across + the open and entered the hut. From the bench two soldiers started up in + fright. They were Bolsheviki. On their big Astrakhan caps I made out the + red stars of Bolshevism and on their blouses the dirty red bands. We + greeted each other and sat down. The soldiers had already prepared tea and + so we drank this ever welcome hot beverage and chatted, suspiciously + eyeing one another the while. To disarm this suspicion on their part, I + told them that I was a hunter from a distant place and was living there + because I found it good country for sables. They announced to me that they + were soldiers of a detachment sent from a town into the woods to pursue + all suspicious people. + </p> + <p> + “Do you understand, ‘Comrade,’” said one of them to me, “we are looking + for counter-revolutionists to shoot them?” + </p> + <p> + I knew it without his explanations. All my forces were directed to + assuring them by my conduct that I was a simple peasant hunter and that I + had nothing in common with the counter-revolutionists. I was thinking also + all the time of where I should go after the departure of my unwelcome + guests. It grew dark. In the darkness their faces were even less + attractive. They took out bottles of vodka and drank and the alcohol began + to act very noticeably. They talked loudly and constantly interrupted each + other, boasting how many bourgeoisie they had killed in Krasnoyarsk and + how many Cossacks they had slid under the ice in the river. Afterwards + they began to quarrel but soon they were tired and prepared to sleep. All + of a sudden and without any warning the door of the hut swung wide open + and the steam of the heated room rolled out in a great cloud, out of which + seemed to rise like a genie, as the steam settled, the figure of a tall, + gaunt peasant impressively crowned with the high Astrakhan cap and wrapped + in the great sheepskin overcoat that added to the massiveness of his + figure. He stood with his rifle ready to fire. Under his girdle lay the + sharp ax without which the Siberian peasant cannot exist. Eyes, quick and + glimmering like those of a wild beast, fixed themselves alternately on + each of us. In a moment he took off his cap, made the sign of the cross on + his breast and asked of us: “Who is the master here?” + </p> + <p> + I answered him. + </p> + <p> + “May I stop the night?” + </p> + <p> + “Yes,” I replied, “places enough for all. Take a cup of tea. It is still + hot.” + </p> + <p> + The stranger, running his eyes constantly over all of us and over + everything about the room, began to take off his skin coat after putting + his rifle in the corner. He was dressed in an old leather blouse with + trousers of the same material tucked in high felt boots. His face was + quite young, fine and tinged with something akin to mockery. His white, + sharp teeth glimmered as his eyes penetrated everything they rested upon. + I noticed the locks of grey in his shaggy head. Lines of bitterness + circled his mouth. They showed his life had been very stormy and full of + danger. He took a seat beside his rifle and laid his ax on the floor + below. + </p> + <p> + “What? Is it your wife?” asked one of the drunken soldiers, pointing to + the ax. + </p> + <p> + The tall peasant looked calmly at him from the quiet eyes under their + heavy brows and as calmly answered: + </p> + <p> + “One meets a different folk these days and with an ax it is much safer.” + </p> + <p> + He began to drink tea very greedily, while his eyes looked at me many + times with sharp inquiry in them and ran often round the whole cabin in + search of the answer to his doubts. Very slowly and with a guarded drawl + he answered all the questions of the soldiers between gulps of the hot + tea, then he turned his glass upside down as evidence of having finished, + placed on the top of it the small lump of sugar left and remarked to the + soldiers: + </p> + <p> + “I am going out to look after my horse and will unsaddle your horses for + you also.” + </p> + <p> + “All right,” exclaimed the half-sleeping young soldier, “bring in our + rifles as well.” + </p> + <p> + The soldiers were lying on the benches and thus left for us only the + floor. The stranger soon came back, brought the rifles and set them in the + dark corner. He dropped the saddle pads on the floor, sat down on them and + began to take off his boots. The soldiers and my guest soon were snoring + but I did not sleep for thinking of what next to do. Finally as dawn was + breaking, I dozed off only to awake in the broad daylight and find my + stranger gone. I went outside the hut and discovered him saddling a fine + bay stallion. + </p> + <p> + “Are you going away?” I asked. + </p> + <p> + “Yes, but I want to go together with these —— comrades,’” he + whispered, “and afterwards I shall come back.” + </p> + <p> + I did not ask him anything further and told him only that I would wait for + him. He took off the bags that had been hanging on his saddle, put them + away out of sight in the burned corner of the cabin, looked over the + stirrups and bridle and, as he finished saddling, smiled and said: + </p> + <p> + “I am ready. I’m going to awake my ‘comrades.’” Half an hour after the + morning drink of tea, my three guests took their leave. I remained out of + doors and was engaged in splitting wood for my stove. Suddenly, from a + distance, rifle shots rang through the woods, first one, then a second. + Afterwards all was still. From the place near the shots a frightened covey + of blackcock broke and came over me. At the top of a high pine a jay cried + out. I listened for a long time to see if anyone was approaching my hut + but everything was still. + </p> + <p> + On the lower Yenisei it grows dark very early. I built a fire in my stove + and began to cook my soup, constantly listening for every noise that came + from beyond the cabin walls. Certainly I understood at all times very + clearly that death was ever beside me and might claim me by means of + either man, beast, cold, accident or disease. I knew that nobody was near + me to assist and that all my help was in the hands of God, in the power of + my hands and feet, in the accuracy of my aim and in my presence of mind. + However, I listened in vain. I did not notice the return of my stranger. + Like yesterday he appeared all at once on the threshold. Through the steam + I made out his laughing eyes and his fine face. He stepped into the hut + and dropped with a good deal of noise three rifles into the corner. + </p> + <p> + “Two horses, two rifles, two saddles, two boxes of dry bread, half a brick + of tea, a small bag of salt, fifty cartridges, two overcoats, two pairs of + boots,” laughingly he counted out. “In truth today I had a very successful + hunt.” + </p> + <p> + In astonishment I looked at him. + </p> + <p> + “What are you surprised at?” he laughed. “Komu nujny eti tovarischi? Who’s + got any use for these fellows? Let us have tea and go to sleep. Tomorrow I + will guide you to another safer place and then go on.” + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0002" id="link2HCH0002"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER II + </h2> + <h3> + THE SECRET OF MY FELLOW TRAVELER + </h3> + <p> + At the dawn of day we started forth, leaving my first place of refuge. + Into the bags we packed our personal estate and fastened them on one of + the saddles. + </p> + <p> + “We must go four or five hundred versts,” very calmly announced my fellow + traveler, who called himself “Ivan,” a name that meant nothing to my mind + or heart in this land where every second man bore the same. + </p> + <p> + “We shall travel then for a very long time,” I remarked regretfully. + </p> + <p> + “Not more than one week, perhaps even less,” he answered. + </p> + <p> + That night we spent in the woods under the wide spreading branches of the + fir trees. It was my first night in the forest under the open sky. How + many like this I was destined to spend in the year and a half of my + wanderings! During the day there was very sharp cold. Under the hoofs of + the horses the frozen snow crunched and the balls that formed and broke + from their hoofs rolled away over the crust with a sound like crackling + glass. The heathcock flew from the trees very idly, hares loped slowly + down the beds of summer streams. At night the wind began to sigh and + whistle as it bent the tops of the trees over our heads; while below it + was still and calm. We stopped in a deep ravine bordered by heavy trees, + where we found fallen firs, cut them into logs for the fire and, after + having boiled our tea, dined. + </p> + <p> + Ivan dragged in two tree trunks, squared them on one side with his ax, + laid one on the other with the squared faces together and then drove in a + big wedge at the butt ends which separated them three or four inches. Then + we placed live coals in this opening and watched the fire run rapidly the + whole length of the squared faces vis-a-vis. + </p> + <p> + “Now there will be a fire in the morning,” he announced. “This is the + ‘naida’ of the gold prospectors. We prospectors wandering in the woods + summer and winter always sleep beside this ‘naida.’ Fine! You shall see + for yourself,” he continued. + </p> + <p> + He cut fir branches and made a sloping roof out of them, resting it on two + uprights toward the naida. Above our roof of boughs and our naida spread + the branches of protecting fir. More branches were brought and spread on + the snow under the roof, on these were placed the saddle cloths and + together they made a seat for Ivan to rest on and to take off his outer + garments down to his blouse. Soon I noticed his forehead was wet with + perspiration and that he was wiping it and his neck on his sleeves. + </p> + <p> + “Now it is good and warm!” he exclaimed. + </p> + <p> + In a short time I was also forced to take off my overcoat and soon lay + down to sleep without any covering at all, while through the branches of + the fir trees and our roof glimmered the cold bright stars and just beyond + the naida raged a stinging cold, from which we were cosily defended. After + this night I was no longer frightened by the cold. Frozen during the days + on horseback, I was thoroughly warmed through by the genial naida at night + and rested from my heavy overcoat, sitting only in my blouse under the + roofs of pine and fir and sipping the ever welcome tea. + </p> + <p> + During our daily treks Ivan related to me the stories of his wanderings + through the mountains and woods of Transbaikalia in the search for gold. + These stories were very lively, full of attractive adventure, danger and + struggle. Ivan was a type of these prospectors who have discovered in + Russia, and perhaps in other countries, the richest gold mines, while they + themselves remain beggars. He evaded telling me why he left Transbaikalia + to come to the Yenisei. I understood from his manner that he wished to + keep his own counsel and so did not press him. However, the blanket of + secrecy covering this part of his mysterious life was one day quite + fortuitously lifted a bit. We were already at the objective point of our + trip. The whole day we had traveled with difficulty through a thick growth + of willow, approaching the shore of the big right branch of the Yenisei, + the Mana. Everywhere we saw runways packed hard by the feet of the hares + living in this bush. These small white denizens of the wood ran to and fro + in front of us. Another time we saw the red tail of a fox hiding behind a + rock, watching us and the unsuspecting hares at the same time. + </p> + <p> + Ivan had been silent for a long while. Then he spoke up and told me that + not far from there was a small branch of the Mana, at the mouth of which + was a hut. + </p> + <p> + “What do you say? Shall we push on there or spend the night by the naida?” + </p> + <p> + I suggested going to the hut, because I wanted to wash and because it + would be agreeable to spend the night under a genuine roof again. Ivan + knitted his brows but acceded. + </p> + <p> + It was growing dark when we approached a hut surrounded by the dense wood + and wild raspberry bushes. It contained one small room with two + microscopic windows and a gigantic Russian stove. Against the building + were the remains of a shed and a cellar. We fired the stove and prepared + our modest dinner. Ivan drank from the bottle inherited from the soldiers + and in a short time was very eloquent, with brilliant eyes and with hands + that coursed frequently and rapidly through his long locks. He began + relating to me the story of one of his adventures, but suddenly stopped + and, with fear in his eyes, squinted into a dark corner. + </p> + <p> + “Is it a rat?” he asked. + </p> + <p> + “I did not see anything,” I replied. + </p> + <p> + He again became silent and reflected with knitted brow. Often we were + silent through long hours and consequently I was not astonished. Ivan + leaned over near to me and began to whisper. + </p> + <p> + “I want to tell you an old story. I had a friend in Transbaikalia. He was + a banished convict. His name was Gavronsky. Through many woods and over + many mountains we traveled in search of gold and we had an agreement to + divide all we got into even shares. But Gavronsky suddenly went out to the + ‘Taiga’ on the Yenisei and disappeared. After five years we heard that he + had found a very rich gold mine and had become a rich man; then later that + he and his wife with him had been murdered. . . .” Ivan was still for a + moment and then continued: + </p> + <p> + “This is their old hut. Here he lived with his wife and somewhere on this + river he took out his gold. But he told nobody where. All the peasants + around here know that he had a lot of money in the bank and that he had + been selling gold to the Government. Here they were murdered.” + </p> + <p> + Ivan stepped to the stove, took out a flaming stick and, bending over, + lighted a spot on the floor. + </p> + <p> + “Do you see these spots on the floor and on the wall? It is their blood, + the blood of Gavronsky. They died but they did not disclose the + whereabouts of the gold. It was taken out of a deep hole which they had + drifted into the bank of the river and was hidden in the cellar under the + shed. But Gavronsky gave nothing away. . . . AND LORD HOW I TORTURED THEM! + I burned them with fire; I bent back their fingers; I gouged out their + eyes; but Gavronsky died in silence.” + </p> + <p> + He thought for a moment, then quickly said to me: + </p> + <p> + “I have heard all this from the peasants.” He threw the log into the stove + and flopped down on the bench. “It’s time to sleep,” he snapped out, and + was still. + </p> + <p> + I listened for a long time to his breathing and his whispering to himself, + as he turned from one side to the other and smoked his pipe. + </p> + <p> + In the morning we left this scene of so much suffering and crime and on + the seventh day of our journey we came to the dense cedar wood growing on + the foothills of a long chain of mountains. + </p> + <p> + “From here,” Ivan explained to me, “it is eighty versts to the next + peasant settlement. The people come to these woods to gather cedar nuts + but only in the autumn. Before then you will not meet anyone. Also you + will find many birds and beasts and a plentiful supply of nuts, so that it + will be possible for you to live here. Do you see this river? When you + want to find the peasants, follow along this stream and it will guide you + to them.” + </p> + <p> + Ivan helped me build my mud hut. But it was not the genuine mud hut. It + was one formed by the tearing out of the roots of a great cedar, that had + probably fallen in some wild storm, which made for me the deep hole as the + room for my house and flanked this on one side with a wall of mud held + fast among the upturned roots. Overhanging ones formed also the framework + into which we interlaced the poles and branches to make a roof, finished + off with stones for stability and snow for warmth. The front of the hut + was ever open but was constantly protected by the guardian naida. In that + snow-covered den I spent two months like summer without seeing any other + human being and without touch with the outer world where such important + events were transpiring. In that grave under the roots of the fallen tree + I lived before the face of nature with my trials and my anxiety about my + family as my constant companions, and in the hard struggle for my life. + Ivan went off the second day, leaving for me a bag of dry bread and a + little sugar. I never saw him again. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0003" id="link2HCH0003"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER III + </h2> + <h3> + THE STRUGGLE FOR LIFE + </h3> + <p> + Then I was alone. Around me only the wood of eternally green cedars + covered with snow, the bare bushes, the frozen river and, as far as I + could see out through the branches and the trunks of the trees, only the + great ocean of cedars and snow. Siberian taiga! How long shall I be forced + to live here? Will the Bolsheviki find me here or not? Will my friends + know where I am? What is happening to my family? These questions were + constantly as burning fires in my brain. Soon I understood why Ivan guided + me so long. We passed many secluded places on the journey, far away from + all people, where Ivan could have safely left me but he always said that + he would take me to a place where it would be easier to live. And it was + so. The charm of my lone refuge was in the cedar wood and in the mountains + covered with these forests which stretched to every horizon. The cedar is + a splendid, powerful tree with wide-spreading branches, an eternally green + tent, attracting to its shelter every living being. Among the cedars was + always effervescent life. There the squirrels were continually kicking up + a row, jumping from tree to tree; the nut-jobbers cried shrilly; a flock + of bullfinches with carmine breasts swept through the trees like a flame; + or a small army of goldfinches broke in and filled the amphitheatre of + trees with their whistling; a hare scooted from one tree trunk to another + and behind him stole up the hardly visible shadow of a white ermine, + crawling on the snow, and I watched for a long time the black spot which I + knew to be the tip of his tail; carefully treading the hard crusted snow + approached a noble deer; at last there visited me from the top of the + mountain the king of the Siberian forest, the brown bear. All this + distracted me and carried away the black thoughts from my brain, + encouraging me to persevere. It was good for me also, though difficult, to + climb to the top of my mountain, which reached up out of the forest and + from which I could look away to the range of red on the horizon. It was + the red cliff on the farther bank of the Yenisei. There lay the country, + the towns, the enemies and the friends; and there was even the point which + I located as the place of my family. It was the reason why Ivan had guided + me here. And as the days in this solitude slipped by I began to miss + sorely this companion who, though the murderer of Gavronsky, had taken + care of me like a father, always saddling my horse for me, cutting the + wood and doing everything to make me comfortable. He had spent many + winters alone with nothing except his thoughts, face to face with nature—I + should say, before the face of God. He had tried the horrors of solitude + and had acquired facility in bearing them. I thought sometimes, if I had + to meet my end in this place, that I would spend my last strength to drag + myself to the top of the mountain to die there, looking away over the + infinite sea of mountains and forest toward the point where my loved ones + were. + </p> + <p> + However, the same life gave me much matter for reflection and yet more + occupation for the physical side. It was a continuous struggle for + existence, hard and severe. The hardest work was the preparation of the + big logs for the naida. The fallen trunks of the trees were covered with + snow and frozen to the ground. I was forced to dig them out and + afterwards, with the help of a long stick as a lever, to move them from + their place. For facilitating this work I chose the mountain for my + supplies, where, although difficult to climb, it was easy to roll the logs + down. Soon I made a splendid discovery. I found near my den a great + quantity of larch, this beautiful yet sad forest giant, fallen during a + big storm. The trunks were covered with snow but remained attached to + their stumps, where they had broken off. When I cut into these stumps with + the ax, the head buried itself and could with difficulty be drawn and, + investigating the reason, I found them filled with pitch. Chips of this + wood needed only a spark to set them aflame and ever afterward I always + had a stock of them to light up quickly for warming my hands on returning + from the hunt or for boiling my tea. + </p> + <p> + The greater part of my days was occupied with the hunt. I came to + understand that I must distribute my work over every day, for it + distracted me from my sad and depressing thoughts. Generally, after my + morning tea, I went into the forest to seek heathcock or blackcock. After + killing one or two I began to prepare my dinner, which never had an + extensive menu. It was constantly game soup with a handful of dried bread + and afterwards endless cups of tea, this essential beverage of the woods. + Once, during my search for birds, I heard a rustle in the dense shrubs + and, carefully peering about, I discovered the points of a deer’s horns. I + crawled along toward the spot but the watchful animal heard my approach. + With a great noise he rushed from the bush and I saw him very clearly, + after he had run about three hundred steps, stop on the slope of the + mountain. It was a splendid animal with dark grey coat, with almost a + black spine and as large as a small cow. I laid my rifle across a branch + and fired. The animal made a great leap, ran several steps and fell. With + all my strength I ran to him but he got up again and half jumped, half + dragged himself up the mountain. The second shot stopped him. I had won a + warm carpet for my den and a large stock of meat. The horns I fastened up + among the branches of my wall, where they made a fine hat rack. + </p> + <p> + I cannot forget one very interesting but wild picture, which was staged + for me several kilometres from my den. There was a small swamp covered + with grass and cranberries scattered through it, where the blackcock and + sand partridges usually came to feed on the berries. I approached + noiselessly behind the bushes and saw a whole flock of blackcock + scratching in the snow and picking out the berries. While I was surveying + this scene, suddenly one of the blackcock jumped up and the rest of the + frightened flock immediately flew away. To my astonishment the first bird + began going straight up in a spiral flight and afterwards dropped directly + down dead. When I approached there sprang from the body of the slain cock + a rapacious ermine that hid under the trunk of a fallen tree. The bird’s + neck was badly torn. I then understood that the ermine had charged the + cock, fastened itself on his neck and had been carried by the bird into + the air, as he sucked the blood from its throat, and had been the cause of + the heavy fall back to the earth. Thanks to his aeronautic ability I saved + one cartridge. + </p> + <p> + So I lived fighting for the morrow and more and more poisoned by hard and + bitter thoughts. The days and weeks passed and soon I felt the breath of + warmer winds. On the open places the snow began to thaw. In spots the + little rivulets of water appeared. Another day I saw a fly or a spider + awakened after the hard winter. The spring was coming. I realized that in + spring it was impossible to go out from the forest. Every river overflowed + its banks; the swamps became impassable; all the runways of the animals + turned into beds for streams of running water. I understood that until + summer I was condemned to a continuation of my solitude. Spring very + quickly came into her rights and soon my mountain was free from snow and + was covered only with stones, the trunks of birch and aspen trees and the + high cones of ant hills; the river in places broke its covering of ice and + was coursing full with foam and bubbles. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0004" id="link2HCH0004"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER IV + </h2> + <h3> + A FISHERMAN + </h3> + <p> + One day during the hunt, I approached the bank of the river and noticed + many very large fish with red backs, as though filled with blood. They + were swimming on the surface enjoying the rays of the sun. When the river + was entirely free from ice, these fish appeared in enormous quantities. + Soon I realized that they were working up-stream for the spawning season + in the smaller rivers. I thought to use a plundering method of catching, + forbidden by the law of all countries; but all the lawyers and legislators + should be lenient to one who lives in a den under the roots of a fallen + tree and dares to break their rational laws. + </p> + <p> + Gathering many thin birch and aspen trees I built in the bed of the stream + a weir which the fish could not pass and soon I found them trying to jump + over it. Near the bank I left a hole in my barrier about eighteen inches + below the surface and fastened on the up-stream side a high basket plaited + from soft willow twigs, into which the fish came as they passed the hole. + Then I stood cruelly by and hit them on the head with a strong stick. All + my catch were over thirty pounds, some more than eighty. This variety of + fish is called the taimen, is of the trout family and is the best in the + Yenisei. + </p> + <p> + After two weeks the fish had passed and my basket gave me no more + treasure, so I began anew the hunt. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0005" id="link2HCH0005"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER V + </h2> + <h3> + A DANGEROUS NEIGHBOR + </h3> + <p> + The hunt became more and more profitable and enjoyable, as spring animated + everything. In the morning at the break of day the forest was full of + voices, strange and undiscernible to the inhabitant of the town. There the + heathcock clucked and sang his song of love, as he sat on the top branches + of the cedar and admired the grey hen scratching in the fallen leaves + below. It was very easy to approach this full-feathered Caruso and with a + shot to bring him down from his more poetic to his more utilitarian + duties. His going out was an euthanasia, for he was in love and heard + nothing. Out in the clearing the blackcocks with their wide-spread spotted + tails were fighting, while the hens strutting near, craning and + chattering, probably some gossip about their fighting swains, watched and + were delighted with them. From the distance flowed in a stern and deep + roar, yet full of tenderness and love, the mating call of the deer; while + from the crags above came down the short and broken voice of the mountain + buck. Among the bushes frolicked the hares and often near them a red fox + lay flattened to the ground watching his chance. I never heard any wolves + and they are usually not found in the Siberian regions covered with + mountains and forest. + </p> + <p> + But there was another beast, who was my neighbor, and one of us had to go + away. One day, coming back from the hunt with a big heathcock, I suddenly + noticed among the trees a black, moving mass. I stopped and, looking very + attentively, saw a bear, digging away at an ant-hill. Smelling me, he + snorted violently, and very quickly shuffled away, astonishing me with the + speed of his clumsy gait. The following morning, while still lying under + my overcoat, I was attracted by a noise behind my den. I peered out very + carefully and discovered the bear. He stood on his hind legs and was + noisily sniffing, investigating the question as to what living creature + had adopted the custom of the bears of housing during the winter under the + trunks of fallen trees. I shouted and struck my kettle with the ax. My + early visitor made off with all his energy; but his visit did not please + me. It was very early in the spring that this occurred and the bear should + not yet have left his hibernating place. He was the so-called “ant-eater,” + an abnormal type of bear lacking in all the etiquette of the first + families of the bear clan. + </p> + <p> + I knew that the “ant-eaters” were very irritable and audacious and quickly + I prepared myself for both the defence and the charge. My preparations + were short. I rubbed off the ends of five of my cartridges, thus making + dum-dums out of them, a sufficiently intelligible argument for so + unwelcome a guest. Putting on my coat I went to the place where I had + first met the bear and where there were many ant-hills. I made a detour of + the whole mountain, looked in all the ravines but nowhere found my caller. + Disappointed and tired, I was approaching my shelter quite off my guard + when I suddenly discovered the king of the forest himself just coming out + of my lowly dwelling and sniffing all around the entrance to it. I shot. + The bullet pierced his side. He roared with pain and anger and stood up on + his hind legs. As the second bullet broke one of these, he squatted down + but immediately, dragging the leg and endeavoring to stand upright, moved + to attack me. Only the third bullet in his breast stopped him. He weighed + about two hundred to two hundred fifty pounds, as near as I could guess, + and was very tasty. He appeared at his best in cutlets but only a little + less wonderful in the Hamburg steaks which I rolled and roasted on hot + stones, watching them swell out into great balls that were as light as the + finest souffle omelettes we used to have at the “Medved” in Petrograd. On + this welcome addition to my larder I lived from then until the ground + dried out and the stream ran down enough so that I could travel down along + the river to the country whither Ivan had directed me. + </p> + <p> + Ever traveling with the greatest precautions I made the journey down along + the river on foot, carrying from my winter quarters all my household + furniture and goods, wrapped up in the deerskin bag which I formed by + tying the legs together in an awkward knot; and thus laden fording the + small streams and wading through the swamps that lay across my path. After + fifty odd miles of this I came to the country called Sifkova, where I + found the cabin of a peasant named Tropoff, located closest to the forest + that came to be my natural environment. With him I lived for a time. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + Now in these unimaginable surroundings of safety and peace, summing up the + total of my experience in the Siberian taiga, I make the following + deductions. In every healthy spiritual individual of our times, occasions + of necessity resurrect the traits of primitive man, hunter and warrior, + and help him in the struggle with nature. It is the prerogative of the man + with the trained mind and spirit over the untrained, who does not possess + sufficient science and will power to carry him through. But the price that + the cultured man must pay is that for him there exists nothing more awful + than absolute solitude and the knowledge of complete isolation from human + society and the life of moral and aesthetic culture. One step, one moment + of weakness and dark madness will seize a man and carry him to inevitable + destruction. I spent awful days of struggle with the cold and hunger but I + passed more terrible days in the struggle of the will to kill weakening + destructive thoughts. The memories of these days freeze my heart and mind + and even now, as I revive them so clearly by writing of my experiences, + they throw me back into a state of fear and apprehension. Moreover, I am + compelled to observe that the people in highly civilized states give too + little regard to the training that is useful to man in primitive + conditions, in conditions incident to the struggle against nature for + existence. It is the single normal way to develop a new generation of + strong, healthy, iron men, with at the same time sensitive souls. + </p> + <p> + Nature destroys the weak but helps the strong, awakening in the soul + emotions which remain dormant under the urban conditions of modern life. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0006" id="link2HCH0006"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER VI + </h2> + <h3> + A RIVER IN TRAVAIL + </h3> + <p> + My presence in the Sifkova country was not for long but I used it in full + measure. First, I sent a man in whom I had confidence and whom I + considered trustworthy to my friends in the town that I had left and + received from them linen, boots, money and a small case of first aid + materials and essential medicines, and, what was most important, a + passport in another name, since I was dead for the Bolsheviki. Secondly, + in these more or less favorable conditions I reflected upon the plan for + my future actions. Soon in Sifkova the people heard that the Bolshevik + commissar would come for the requisition of cattle for the Red Army. It + was dangerous to remain longer. I waited only until the Yenisei should + lose its massive lock of ice, which kept it sealed long after the small + rivulets had opened and the trees had taken on their spring foliage. For + one thousand roubles I engaged a fisherman who agreed to take me + fifty-five miles up the river to an abandoned gold mine as soon as the + river, which had then only opened in places, should be entirely clear of + ice. At last one morning I heard a deafening roar like a tremendous + cannonade and ran out to find the river had lifted its great bulk of ice + and then given way to break it up. I rushed on down to the bank, where I + witnessed an awe-inspiring but magnificent scene. The river had brought + down the great volume of ice that had been dislodged in the south and was + carrying it northward under the thick layer which still covered parts of + the stream until finally its weight had broken the winter dam to the north + and released the whole grand mass in one last rush for the Arctic. The + Yenisei, “Father Yenisei,” “Hero Yenisei,” is one of the longest rivers in + Asia, deep and magnificent, especially through the middle range of its + course, where it is flanked and held in canyon-like by great towering + ranges. The huge stream had brought down whole miles of ice fields, + breaking them up on the rapids and on isolated rocks, twisting them with + angry swirls, throwing up sections of the black winter roads, carrying + down the tepees built for the use of passing caravans which in the Winter + always go from Minnusinsk to Krasnoyarsk on the frozen river. From time to + time the stream stopped in its flow, the roar began and the great fields + of ice were squeezed and piled upward, sometimes as high as thirty feet, + damming up the water behind, so that it rapidly rose and ran out over the + low places, casting on the shore great masses of ice. Then the power of + the reinforced waters conquered the towering dam of ice and carried it + downward with a sound like breaking glass. At the bends in the river and + round the great rocks developed terrifying chaos. Huge blocks of ice + jammed and jostled until some were thrown clear into the air, crashing + against others already there, or were hurled against the curving cliffs + and banks, tearing out boulders, earth and trees high up the sides. All + along the low embankments this giant of nature flung upward with a + suddenness that leaves man but a pigmy in force a great wall of ice + fifteen to twenty feet high, which the peasants call “Zaberega” and + through which they cannot get to the river without cutting out a road. One + incredible feat I saw the giant perform, when a block many feet thick and + many yards square was hurled through the air and dropped to crush saplings + and little trees more than a half hundred feet from the bank. + </p> + <p> + Watching this glorious withdrawal of the ice, I was filled with terror and + revolt at seeing the awful spoils which the Yenisei bore away in this + annual retreat. These were the bodies of the executed + counter-revolutionaries—officers, soldiers and Cossacks of the + former army of the Superior Governor of all anti-Bolshevik Russia, Admiral + Kolchak. They were the results of the bloody work of the “Cheka” at + Minnusinsk. Hundreds of these bodies with heads and hands cut off, with + mutilated faces and bodies half burned, with broken skulls, floated and + mingled with the blocks of ice, looking for their graves; or, turning in + the furious whirlpools among the jagged blocks, they were ground and torn + to pieces into shapeless masses, which the river, nauseated with its task, + vomited out upon the islands and projecting sand bars. I passed the whole + length of the middle Yenisei and constantly came across these putrifying + and terrifying reminders of the work of the Bolsheviki. In one place at a + turn of the river I saw a great heap of horses, which had been cast up by + the ice and current, in number not less than three hundred. A verst below + there I was sickened beyond endurance by the discovery of a grove of + willows along the bank which had raked from the polluted stream and held + in their finger-like drooping branches human bodies in all shapes and + attitudes with a semblance of naturalness which made an everlasting + picture on my distraught mind. Of this pitiful gruesome company I counted + seventy. + </p> + <p> + At last the mountain of ice passed by, followed by the muddy freshets that + carried down the trunks of fallen trees, logs and bodies, bodies, bodies. + The fisherman and his son put me and my luggage into their dugout made + from an aspen tree and poled upstream along the bank. Poling in a swift + current is very hard work. At the sharp curves we were compelled to row, + struggling against the force of the stream and even in places hugging the + cliffs and making headway only by clutching the rocks with our hands and + dragging along slowly. Sometimes it took us a long while to do five or six + metres through these rapid holes. In two days we reached the goal of our + journey. I spent several days in this gold mine, where the watchman and + his family were living. As they were short of food, they had nothing to + spare for me and consequently my rifle again served to nourish me, as well + as contributing something to my hosts. One day there appeared here a + trained agriculturalist. I did not hide because during my winter in the + woods I had raised a heavy beard, so that probably my own mother could not + have recognized me. However, our guest was very shrewd and at once + deciphered me. I did not fear him because I saw that he was not a + Bolshevik and later had confirmation of this. We found common + acquaintances and a common viewpoint on current events. He lived close to + the gold mine in a small village where he superintended public works. We + determined to escape together from Russia. For a long time I had puzzled + over this matter and now my plan was ready. Knowing the position in + Siberia and its geography, I decided that the best way to safety was + through Urianhai, the northern part of Mongolia on the head waters of the + Yenisei, then through Mongolia and out to the Far East and the Pacific. + Before the overthrow of the Kolchak Government I had received a commission + to investigate Urianhai and Western Mongolia and then, with great + accuracy, I studied all the maps and literature I could get on this + question. To accomplish this audacious plan I had the great incentive of + my own safety. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0007" id="link2HCH0007"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER VII + </h2> + <h3> + THROUGH SOVIET SIBERIA + </h3> + <p> + After several days we started through the forest on the left bank of the + Yenisei toward the south, avoiding the villages as much as possible in + fear of leaving some trail by which we might be followed. Whenever we did + have to go into them, we had a good reception at the hands of the + peasants, who did not penetrate our disguise; and we saw that they hated + the Bolsheviki, who had destroyed many of their villages. In one place we + were told that a detachment of Red troops had been sent out from + Minnusinsk to chase the Whites. We were forced to work far back from the + shore of the Yenisei and to hide in the woods and mountains. Here we + remained nearly a fortnight, because all this time the Red soldiers were + traversing the country and capturing in the woods half-dressed unarmed + officers who were in hiding from the atrocious vengeance of the + Bolsheviki. Afterwards by accident we passed a meadow where we found the + bodies of twenty-eight officers hung to the trees, with their faces and + bodies mutilated. There we determined never to allow ourselves to come + alive into the hands of the Boisheviki. To prevent this we had our weapons + and a supply of cyanide of potassium. + </p> + <p> + Passing across one branch of the Yenisei, once we saw a narrow, miry pass, + the entrance to which was strewn with the bodies of men and horses. A + little farther along we found a broken sleigh with rifled boxes and papers + scattered about. Near them were also torn garments and bodies. Who were + these pitiful ones? What tragedy was staged in this wild wood? We tried to + guess this enigma and we began to investigate the documents and papers. + These were official papers addressed to the Staff of General Pepelaieff. + Probably one part of the Staff during the retreat of Kolchak’s army went + through this wood, striving to hide from the enemy approaching from all + sides; but here they were caught by the Reds and killed. Not far from here + we found the body of a poor unfortunate woman, whose condition proved + clearly what had happened before relief came through the beneficent + bullet. The body lay beside a shelter of branches, strewn with bottles and + conserve tins, telling the tale of the bantering feast that had preceded + the destruction of this life. + </p> + <p> + The further we went to the south, the more pronouncedly hospitable the + people became toward us and the more hostile to the Bolsheviki. At last we + emerged from the forests and entered the spacious vastness of the + Minnusinsk steppes, crossed by the high red mountain range called the + “Kizill-Kaiya” and dotted here and there with salt lakes. It is a country + of tombs, thousands of large and small dolmens, the tombs of the earliest + proprietors of this land: pyramids of stone ten metres high, the marks set + by Jenghiz Khan along his road of conquest and afterwards by the cripple + Tamerlane-Temur. Thousands of these dolmens and stone pyramids stretch in + endless rows to the north. In these plains the Tartars now live. They were + robbed by the Bolsheviki and therefore hated them ardently. We openly told + them that we were escaping. They gave us food for nothing and supplied us + with guides, telling us with whom we might stop and where to hide in case + of danger. + </p> + <p> + After several days we looked down from the high bank of the Yenisei upon + the first steamer, the “Oriol,” from Krasnoyarsk to Minnusinsk, laden with + Red soldiers. Soon we came to the mouth of the river Tuba, which we were + to follow straight east to the Sayan mountains, where Urianhai begins. We + thought the stage along the Tuba and its branch, the Amyl, the most + dangerous part of our course, because the valleys of these two rivers had + a dense population which had contributed large numbers of soldiers to the + celebrated Communist Partisans, Schetinkin and Krafcheno. + </p> + <p> + A Tartar ferried us and our horses over to the right bank of the Yenisei + and afterwards sent us some Cossacks at daybreak who guided us to the + mouth of the Tuba, where we spent the whole day in rest, gratifying + ourselves with a feast of wild black currants and cherries. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0008" id="link2HCH0008"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER VIII + </h2> + <h3> + THREE DAYS ON THE EDGE OF A PRECIPICE + </h3> + <p> + Armed with our false passports, we moved along up the valley of the Tuba. + Every ten or fifteen versts we came across large villages of from one to + six hundred houses, where all administration was in the hands of Soviets + and where spies scrutinized all passers-by. We could not avoid these + villages for two reasons. First, our attempts to avoid them when we were + constantly meeting the peasants in the country would have aroused + suspicion and would have caused any Soviet to arrest us and send us to the + “Cheka” in Minnusinsk, where we should have sung our last song. Secondly, + in his documents my fellow traveler was granted permission to use the + government post relays for forwarding him on his journey. Therefore, we + were forced to visit the village Soviets and change our horses. Our own + mounts we had given to the Tartar and Cossack who helped us at the mouth + of the Tuba, and the Cossack brought us in his wagon to the first village, + where we received the post horses. All except a small minority of the + peasants were against the Bolsheviki and voluntarily assisted us. I paid + them for their help by treating their sick and my fellow traveler gave + them practical advice in the management of their agriculture. Those who + helped us chiefly were the old dissenters and the Cossacks. + </p> + <p> + Sometimes we came across villages entirely Communistic but very soon we + learned to distinguish them. When we entered a village with our horse + bells tinkling and found the peasants who happened to be sitting in front + of their houses ready to get up with a frown and a grumble that here were + more new devils coming, we knew that this was a village opposed to the + Communists and that here we could stop in safety. But, if the peasants + approached and greeted us with pleasure, calling us “Comrades,” we knew at + once that we were among the enemy and took great precautions. Such + villages were inhabited by people who were not the Siberian liberty-loving + peasants but by emigrants from the Ukraine, idle and drunk, living in poor + dirty huts, though their village were surrounded with the black and + fertile soil of the steppes. Very dangerous and pleasant moments we spent + in the large village of Karatuz. It is rather a town. In the year 1912 two + colleges were opened here and the population reached 15,000 people. It is + the capital of the South Yenisei Cossacks. But by now it is very difficult + to recognize this town. The peasant emigrants and Red army murdered all + the Cossack population and destroyed and burned most of the houses; and it + is at present the center of Bolshevism and Communism in the eastern part + of the Minnusinsk district. In the building of the Soviet, where we came + to exchange our horses, there was being held a meeting of the “Cheka.” We + were immediately surrounded and questioned about our documents. We were + not any too calm about the impression which might be made by our papers + and attempted to avoid this examination. My fellow traveler afterwards + often said to me: + </p> + <p> + “It is great good fortune that among the Bolsheviki the good-for-nothing + shoemaker of yesterday is the Governor of today and scientists sweep the + streets or clean the stables of the Red cavalry. I can talk with the + Bolsheviki because they do not know the difference between ‘disinfection’ + and ‘diphtheria,’ ‘anthracite’ and ‘appendicitis’ and can talk them round + in all things, even up to persuading them not to put a bullet into me.” + </p> + <p> + And so we talked the members of the “Cheka” round to everything that we + wanted. We presented to them a bright scheme for the future development of + their district, when we would build the roads and bridges which would + allow them to export the wood from Urianhai, iron and gold from the Sayan + Mountains, cattle and furs from Mongolia. What a triumph of creative work + for the Soviet Government! Our ode occupied about an hour and afterwards + the members of the “Cheka,” forgetting about our documents, personally + changed our horses, placed our luggage on the wagon and wished us success. + It was the last ordeal within the borders of Russia. + </p> + <p> + When we had crossed the valley of the river Amyl, Happiness smiled on us. + Near the ferry we met a member of the militia from Karatuz. He had on his + wagon several rifles and automatic pistols, mostly Mausers, for outfitting + an expedition through Urianhai in quest of some Cossack officers who had + been greatly troubling the Bolsheviki. We stood upon our guard. We could + very easily have met this expedition and we were not quite assured that + the soldiers would be so appreciative of our high-sounding phrases as were + the members of the “Cheka.” Carefully questioning the militiaman, we + ferreted out the route their expedition was to take. In the next village + we stayed in the same house with him. I had to open my luggage and + suddenly I noticed his admiring glance fixed upon my bag. + </p> + <p> + “What pleases you so much?” I asked. + </p> + <p> + He whispered: “Trousers . . . Trousers.” + </p> + <p> + I had received from my townsmen quite new trousers of black thick cloth + for riding. Those trousers attracted the rapt attention of the militiaman. + </p> + <p> + “If you have no other trousers. . . .” I remarked, reflecting upon my plan + of attack against my new friend. + </p> + <p> + “No,” he explained with sadness, “the Soviet does not furnish trousers. + They tell me they also go without trousers. And my trousers are absolutely + worn out. Look at them.” + </p> + <p> + With these words he threw back the corner of his overcoat and I was + astonished how he could keep himself inside these trousers, for they had + such large holes that they were more of a net than trousers, a net through + which a small shark could have slipped. + </p> + <p> + “Sell me,” he whispered, with a question in his voice. + </p> + <p> + “I cannot, for I need them myself,” I answered decisively. + </p> + <p> + He reflected for a few minutes and afterward, approaching me, said: “Let + us go out doors and talk. Here it is inconvenient.” + </p> + <p> + We went outside. “Now, what about it?” he began. “You are going into + Urianhai. There the Soviet bank-notes have no value and you will not be + able to buy anything, where there are plenty of sables, fox-skins, ermine + and gold dust to be purchased, which they very willingly exchange for + rifles and cartridges. You have each of you a rifle and I will give you + one more rifle with a hundred cartridges if you give me the trousers.” + </p> + <p> + “We do not need weapons. We are protected by our documents,” I answered, + as though I did not understand. + </p> + <p> + “But no,” he interrupted, “you can change that rifle there into furs and + gold. I shall give you that rifle outright.” + </p> + <p> + “Ah, that’s it, is it? But it’s very little for those trousers. Nowhere in + Russia can you now find trousers. All Russia goes without trousers and for + your rifle I should receive a sable and what use to me is one skin?” + </p> + <p> + Word by word I attained to my desire. The militia-man got my trousers and + I received a rifle with one hundred cartridges and two automatic pistols + with forty cartridges each. We were armed now so that we could defend + ourselves. Moreover, I persuaded the happy possessor of my trousers to + give us a permit to carry the weapons. Then the law and force were both on + our side. + </p> + <p> + In a distant village we bought three horses, two for riding and one for + packing, engaged a guide, purchased dried bread, meat, salt and butter + and, after resting twenty-four hours, began our trip up the Amyl toward + the Sayan Mountains on the border of Urianhai. There we hoped not to meet + Bolsheviki, either sly or silly. In three days from the mouth of the Tuba + we passed the last Russian village near the Mongolian-Urianhai border, + three days of constant contact with a lawless population, of continuous + danger and of the ever present possibility of fortuitous death. Only iron + will power, presence of mind and dogged tenacity brought us through all + the dangers and saved us from rolling back down our precipice of + adventure, at whose foot lay so many others who had failed to make this + same climb to freedom which we had just accomplished. Perhaps they lacked + the persistence or the presence of mind, perhaps they had not the poetic + ability to sing odes about “roads, bridges and gold mines” or perhaps they + simply had no spare trousers. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0009" id="link2HCH0009"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER IX + </h2> + <h3> + TO THE SAYANS AND SAFETY + </h3> + <p> + Dense virgin wood surrounded us. In the high, already yellow grass the + trail wound hardly noticeable in among bushes and trees just beginning to + drop their many colored leaves. It is the old, already forgotten Amyl pass + road. Twenty-five years ago it carried the provisions, machinery and + workers for the numerous, now abandoned, gold mines of the Amyl valley. + The road now wound along the wide and rapid Amyl, then penetrated into the + deep forest, guiding us round the swampy ground filled with those + dangerous Siberian quagmires, through the dense bushes, across mountains + and wide meadows. Our guide probably did not surmise our real intention + and sometimes, apprehensively looking down at the ground, would say: + </p> + <p> + “Three riders on horses with shoes on have passed here. Perhaps they were + soldiers.” + </p> + <p> + His anxiety was terminated when he discovered that the tracks led off to + one side and then returned to the trail. + </p> + <p> + “They did not proceed farther,” he remarked, slyly smiling. + </p> + <p> + “That’s too bad,” we answered. “It would have been more lively to travel + in company.” + </p> + <p> + But the peasant only stroked his beard and laughed. Evidently he was not + taken in by our statement. + </p> + <p> + We passed on the way a gold mine that had been formerly planned and + equipped on splendid lines but was now abandoned and the buildings all + destroyed. The Bolsheviki had taken away the machinery, supplies and also + some parts of the buildings. Nearby stood a dark and gloomy church with + windows broken, the crucifix torn off and the tower burned, a pitifully + typical emblem of the Russia of today. The starving family of the watchman + lived at the mine in continuing danger and privation. They told us that in + this forest region were wandering about a band of Reds who were robbing + anything that remained on the property of the gold mine, were working the + pay dirt in the richest part of the mine and, with a little gold washed, + were going to drink and gamble it away in some distant villages where the + peasants were making the forbidden vodka out of berries and potatoes and + selling it for its weight in gold. A meeting with this band meant death. + After three days we crossed the northern ridge of the Sayan chain, passed + the border river Algiak and, after this day, were abroad in the territory + of Urianhai. + </p> + <p> + This wonderful land, rich in most diverse forms of natural wealth, is + inhabited by a branch of the Mongols, which is now only sixty thousand and + which is gradually dying off, speaking a language quite different from any + of the other dialects of this folk and holding as their life ideal the + tenet of “Eternal Peace.” Urianhai long ago became the scene of + administrative attempts by Russians, Mongols and Chinese, all of whom + claimed sovereignty over the region whose unfortunate inhabitants, the + Soyots, had to pay tribute to all three of these overlords. It was due to + this that the land was not an entirely safe refuge for us. We had heard + already from our militiaman about the expedition preparing to go into + Urianhai and from the peasants we learned that the villages along the + Little Yenisei and farther south had formed Red detachments, who were + robbing and killing everyone who fell into their hands. Recently they had + killed sixty-two officers attempting to pass Urianhai into Mongolia; + robbed and killed a caravan of Chinese merchants; and killed some German + war prisoners who escaped from the Soviet paradise. On the fourth day we + reached a swampy valley where, among open forests, stood a single Russian + house. Here we took leave of our guide, who hastened away to get back + before the snows should block his road over the Sayans. The master of the + establishment agreed to guide us to the Seybi River for ten thousand + roubles in Soviet notes. Our horses were tired and we were forced to give + them a rest, so we decided to spend twenty-four hours here. + </p> + <p> + We were drinking tea when the daughter of our host cried: + </p> + <p> + “The Soyots are coming!” Into the room with their rifles and pointed hats + came suddenly four of them. + </p> + <p> + “Mende,” they grunted to us and then, without ceremony, began examining us + critically. Not a button or a seam in our entire outfit escaped their + penetrating gaze. Afterwards one of them, who appeared to be the local + “Merin” or governor, began to investigate our political views. Listening + to our criticisms of the Bolsheviki, he was evidently pleased and began + talking freely. + </p> + <p> + “You are good people. You do not like Bolsheviki. We will help you.” + </p> + <p> + I thanked him and presented him with the thick silk cord which I was + wearing as a girdle. Before night they left us saying that they would + return in the morning. It grew dark. We went to the meadow to look after + our exhausted horses grazing there and came back to the house. We were + gaily chatting with the hospitable host when suddenly we heard horses’ + hoofs in the court and raucous voices, followed by the immediate entry of + five Red soldiers armed with rifles and swords. Something unpleasant and + cold rolled up into my throat and my heart hammered. We knew the Reds as + our enemies. These men had the red stars on their Astrakhan caps and red + triangles on their sleeves. They were members of the detachment that was + out to look for Cossack officers. Scowling at us they took off their + overcoats and sat down. We first opened the conversation, explaining the + purpose of our journey in exploring for bridges, roads and gold mines. + From them we then learned that their commander would arrive in a little + while with seven more men and that they would take our host at once as a + guide to the Seybi River, where they thought the Cossack officers must be + hidden. Immediately I remarked that our affairs were moving fortunately + and that we must travel along together. One of the soldiers replied that + that would depend upon the “Comrade-officer.” + </p> + <p> + During our conversation the Soyot Governor entered. Very attentively he + studied again the new arrivals and then asked: “Why did you take from the + Soyots the good horses and leave bad ones?” + </p> + <p> + The soldiers laughed at him. + </p> + <p> + “Remember that you are in a foreign country!” answered the Soyot, with a + threat in his voice. + </p> + <p> + “God and the Devil!” cried one of the soldiers. + </p> + <p> + But the Soyot very calmly took a seat at the table and accepted the cup of + tea the hostess was preparing for him. The conversation ceased. The Soyot + finished the tea, smoked his long pipe and, standing up, said: + </p> + <p> + “If tomorrow morning the horses are not back at the owner’s, we shall come + and take them.” And with these words he turned and went out. + </p> + <p> + I noticed an expression of apprehension on the faces of the soldiers. + Shortly one was sent out as a messenger while the others sat silent with + bowed heads. Late in the night the officer arrived with his other seven + men. As he received the report about the Soyot, he knitted his brows and + said: + </p> + <p> + “It’s a bad mess. We must travel through the swamp where a Soyot will be + behind every mound watching us.” + </p> + <p> + He seemed really very anxious and his trouble fortunately prevented him + from paying much attention to us. I began to calm him and promised on the + morrow to arrange this matter with the Soyots. The officer was a coarse + brute and a silly man, desiring strongly to be promoted for the capture of + the Cossack officers, and feared that the Soyot could prevent him from + reaching the Seybi. + </p> + <p> + At daybreak we started together with the Red detachment. When we had made + about fifteen kilometers, we discovered behind the bushes two riders. They + were Soyots. On their backs were their flint rifles. + </p> + <p> + “Wait for me!” I said to the officer. “I shall go for a parley with them.” + </p> + <p> + I went forward with all the speed of my horse. One of the horsemen was the + Soyot Governor, who said to me: + </p> + <p> + “Remain behind the detachment and help us.” + </p> + <p> + “All right,” I answered, “but let us talk a little, in order that they may + think we are parleying.” + </p> + <p> + After a moment I shook the hand of the Soyot and returned to the soldiers. + </p> + <p> + “All right,” I exclaimed, “we can continue our journey. No hindrance will + come from the Soyots.” + </p> + <p> + We moved forward and, when we were crossing a large meadow, we espied at a + long distance two Soyots riding at full gallop right up the side of a + mountain. Step by step I accomplished the necessary manoeuvre to bring me + and my fellow traveler somewhat behind the detachment. Behind our backs + remained only one soldier, very brutish in appearance and apparently very + hostile to us. I had time to whisper to my companion only one word: + “Mauser,” and saw that he very carefully unbuttoned the saddle bag and + drew out a little the handle of his pistol. + </p> + <p> + Soon I understood why these soldiers, excellent woodsmen as they were, + would not attempt to go to the Seybi without a guide. All the country + between the Algiak and the Seybi is formed by high and narrow mountain + ridges separated by deep swampy valleys. It is a cursed and dangerous + place. At first our horses mired to the knees, lunging about and catching + their feet in the roots of bushes in the quagmires, then falling and + pinning us under their sides, breaking parts of their saddles and bridles. + Then we would go in up to the riders’ knees. My horse went down once with + his whole breast and head under the red fluid mud and we just saved it and + no more. Afterwards the officer’s horse fell with him so that he bruised + his head on a stone. My companion injured one knee against a tree. Some of + the men also fell and were injured. The horses breathed heavily. Somewhere + dimly and gloomily a crow cawed. Later the road became worse still. The + trail followed through the same miry swamp but everywhere the road was + blocked with fallen tree trunks. The horses, jumping over the trunks, + would land in an unexpectedly deep hole and flounder. We and all the + soldiers were covered with blood and mud and were in great fear of + exhausting our mounts. For a long distance we had to get down and lead + them. At last we entered a broad meadow covered with bushes and bordered + with rocks. Not only horses but riders also began to sink to their middle + in a quagmire with apparently no bottom. The whole surface of the meadow + was but a thin layer of turf, covering a lake with black putrefying water. + When we finally learned to open our column and proceed at big intervals, + we found we could keep on this surface that undulated like rubber ice and + swayed the bushes up and down. In places the earth buckled up and broke. + </p> + <p> + Suddenly, three shots sounded. They were hardly more than the report of a + Flobert rifle; but they were genuine shots, because the officer and two + soldiers fell to the ground. The other soldiers grabbed their rifles and, + with fear, looked about for the enemy. Four more were soon unseated and + suddenly I noticed our rearguard brute raise his rifle and aim right at + me. However, my Mauser outstrode his rifle and I was allowed to continue + my story. + </p> + <p> + “Begin!” I cried to my friend and we took part in the shooting. Soon the + meadow began to swarm with Soyots, stripping the fallen, dividing the + spoils and recapturing their horses. In some forms of warfare it is never + safe to leave any of the enemy to renew hostilities later with + overwhelming forces. + </p> + <p> + After an hour of very difficult road we began to ascend the mountain and + soon arrived on a high plateau covered with trees. + </p> + <p> + “After all, Soyots are not a too peaceful people,” I remarked, approaching + the Governor. + </p> + <p> + He looked at me very sharply and replied: + </p> + <p> + “It was not Soyots who did the killing.” + </p> + <p> + He was right. It was the Abakan Tartars in Soyot clothes who killed the + Bolsheviki. These Tartars were running their herds of cattle and horses + down out of Russia through Urianhai to Mongolia. They had as their guide + and negotiator a Kalmuck Lamaite. The following morning we were + approaching a small settlement of Russian colonists and noticed some + horsemen looking out from the woods. One of our young and brave Tartars + galloped off at full speed toward these men in the wood but soon wheeled + and returned with a reassuring smile. + </p> + <p> + “All right,” he exclaimed, laughing, “keep right on.” + </p> + <p> + We continued our travel on a good broad road along a high wooden fence + surrounding a meadow filled with a fine herd of wapiti or izubr, which the + Russian colonists breed for the horns that are so valuable in the velvet + for sale to Tibetan and Chinese medicine dealers. These horns, when boiled + and dried, are called panti and are sold to the Chinese at very high + prices. + </p> + <p> + We were received with great fear by the settlers. + </p> + <p> + “Thank God!” exclaimed the hostess, “we thought . . .” and she broke off, + looking at her husband. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0010" id="link2HCH0010"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER X + </h2> + <h3> + THE BATTLE ON THE SEYBI + </h3> + <p> + Constant dangers develop one’s watchfulness and keenness of perception. We + did not take off our clothes nor unsaddle our horses, tired as we were. I + put my Mauser inside my coat and began to look about and scrutinize the + people. The first thing I discovered was the butt end of a rifle under the + pile of pillows always found on the peasants’ large beds. Later I noticed + the employees of our host constantly coming into the room for orders from + him. They did not look like simple peasants, although they had long beards + and were dressed very dirtily. They examined me with very attentive eyes + and did not leave me and my friend alone with the host. We could not, + however, make out anything. But then the Soyot Governor came in and, + noticing our strained relations, began explaining in the Soyot language to + the host all about us. + </p> + <p> + “I beg your pardon,” the colonist said, “but you know yourself that now + for one honest man we have ten thousand murderers and robbers.” + </p> + <p> + With this we began chatting more freely. It appeared that our host knew + that a band of Bolsheviki would attack him in the search for the band of + Cossack officers who were living in his house on and off. He had heard + also about the “total loss” of one detachment. However, it did not + entirely calm the old man to have our news, for he had heard of the large + detachment of Reds that was coming from the border of the Usinsky District + in pursuit of the Tartars who were escaping with their cattle south to + Mongolia. + </p> + <p> + “From one minute to another we are awaiting them with fear,” said our host + to me. “My Soyot has come in and announced that the Reds are already + crossing the Seybi and the Tartars are prepared for the fight.” + </p> + <p> + We immediately went out to look over our saddles and packs and then took + the horses and hid them in the bushes not far off. We made ready our + rifles and pistols and took posts in the enclosure to wait for our common + enemy. An hour of trying impatience passed, when one of the workmen came + running in from the wood and whispered: + </p> + <p> + “They are crossing our swamp. . . . The fight is on.” + </p> + <p> + In fact, like an answer to his words, came through the woods the sound of + a single rifle-shot, followed closely by the increasing rat-tat-tat of the + mingled guns. Nearer to the house the sounds gradually came. Soon we heard + the beating of the horses’ hoofs and the brutish cries of the soldiers. In + a moment three of them burst into the house, from off the road where they + were being raked now by the Tartars from both directions, cursing + violently. One of them shot at our host. He stumbled along and fell on his + knee, as his hand reached out toward the rifle under his pillows. + </p> + <p> + “Who are YOU?” brutally blurted out one of the soldiers, turning to us and + raising his rifle. We answered with Mausers and successfully, for only one + soldier in the rear by the door escaped, and that merely to fall into the + hands of a workman in the courtyard who strangled him. The fight had + begun. The soldiers called on their comrades for help. The Reds were + strung along in the ditch at the side of the road, three hundred paces + from the house, returning the fire of the surrounding Tartars. Several + soldiers ran to the house to help their comrades but this time we heard + the regular volley of the workmen of our host. They fired as though in a + manoeuvre calmly and accurately. Five Red soldiers lay on the road, while + the rest now kept to their ditch. Before long we discovered that they + began crouching and crawling out toward the end of the ditch nearest the + wood where they had left their horses. The sounds of shots became more and + more distant and soon we saw fifty or sixty Tartars pursuing the Reds + across the meadow. + </p> + <p> + Two days we rested here on the Seybi. The workmen of our host, eight in + number, turned out to be officers hiding from the Bolsheviks. They asked + permission to go on with us, to which we agreed. + </p> + <p> + When my friend and I continued our trip we had a guard of eight armed + officers and three horses with packs. We crossed a beautiful valley + between the Rivers Seybi and Ut. Everywhere we saw splendid grazing lands + with numerous herds upon them, but in two or three houses along the road + we did not find anyone living. All had hidden away in fear after hearing + the sounds of the fight with the Reds. The following day we went up over + the high chain of mountains called Daban and, traversing a great area of + burned timber where our trail lay among the fallen trees, we began to + descend into a valley hidden from us by the intervening foothills. There + behind these hills flowed the Little Yenisei, the last large river before + reaching Mongolia proper. About ten kilometers from the river we spied a + column of smoke rising up out of the wood. Two of the officers slipped + away to make an investigation. For a long time they did not return and we, + fearful lest something had happened, moved off carefully in the direction + of the smoke, all ready for a fight if necessary. We finally came near + enough to hear the voices of many people and among them the loud laugh of + one of our scouts. In the middle of a meadow we made out a large tent with + two tepees of branches and around these a crowd of fifty or sixty men. + When we broke out of the forest all of them rushed forward with a joyful + welcome for us. It appeared that it was a large camp of Russian officers + and soldiers who, after their escape from Siberia, had lived in the houses + of the Russian colonists and rich peasants in Urianhai. + </p> + <p> + “What are you doing here?” we asked with surprise. + </p> + <p> + “Oh, ho, you know nothing at all about what has been going on?” replied a + fairly old man who called himself Colonel Ostrovsky. “In Urianhai an order + has been issued from the Military Commissioner to mobilize all men over + twenty-eight years of age and everywhere toward the town of Belotzarsk are + moving detachments of these Partisans. They are robbing the colonists and + peasants and killing everyone that falls into their hands. We are hiding + here from them.” + </p> + <p> + The whole camp counted only sixteen rifles and three bombs, belonging to a + Tartar who was traveling with his Kalmuck guide to his herds in Western + Mongolia. We explained the aim of our journey and our intention to pass + through Mongolia to the nearest port on the Pacific. The officers asked me + to bring them out with us. I agreed. Our reconnaissance proved to us that + there were no Partisans near the house of the peasant who was to ferry us + over the Little Yenisei. We moved off at once in order to pass as quickly + as possible this dangerous zone of the Yenisei and to sink ourselves into + the forest beyond. It snowed but immediately thawed. Before evening a cold + north wind sprang up, bringing with it a small blizzard. Late in the night + our party reached the river. Our colonist welcomed us and offered at once + to ferry us over and swim the horses, although there was ice still + floating which had come down from the head-waters of the stream. During + this conversation there was present one of the peasant’s workmen, + red-haired and squint-eyed. He kept moving around all the time and + suddenly disappeared. Our host noticed it and, with fear in his voice, + said: + </p> + <p> + “He has run to the village and will guide the Partisans here. We must + cross immediately.” + </p> + <p> + Then began the most terrible night of my whole journey. We proposed to the + colonist that he take only our food and ammunition in the boat, while we + would swim our horses across, in order to save the time of the many trips. + The width of the Yenisei in this place is about three hundred metres. The + stream is very rapid and the shore breaks away abruptly to the full depth + of the stream. The night was absolutely dark with not a star in the sky. + The wind in whistling swirls drove the snow and sleet sharply against our + faces. Before us flowed the stream of black, rapid water, carrying down + thin, jagged blocks of ice, twisting and grinding in the whirls and + eddies. For a long time my horse refused to take the plunge down the steep + bank, snorted and braced himself. With all my strength I lashed him with + my whip across his neck until, with a pitiful groan, he threw himself into + the cold stream. We both went all the way under and I hardly kept my seat + in the saddle. Soon I was some metres from the shore with my horse + stretching his head and neck far forward in his efforts and snorting and + blowing incessantly. I felt the every motion of his feet churning the + water and the quivering of his whole body under me in this trial. At last + we reached the middle of the river, where the current became exceedingly + rapid and began to carry us down with it. Out of the ominous darkness I + heard the shoutings of my companions and the dull cries of fear and + suffering from the horses. I was chest deep in the icy water. Sometimes + the floating blocks struck me; sometimes the waves broke up over my head + and face. I had no time to look about or to feel the cold. The animal wish + to live took possession of me; I became filled with the thought that, if + my horse’s strength failed in his struggle with the stream, I must perish. + All my attention was turned to his efforts and to his quivering fear. + Suddenly he groaned loudly and I noticed he was sinking. The water + evidently was over his nostrils, because the intervals of his frightened + snorts through the nostrils became longer. A big block of ice struck his + head and turned him so that he was swimming right downstream. With + difficulty I reined him around toward the shore but felt now that his + force was gone. His head several times disappeared under the swirling + surface. I had no choice. I slipped from the saddle and, holding this by + my left hand, swam with my right beside my mount, encouraging him with my + shouts. For a time he floated with lips apart and his teeth set firm. In + his widely opened eyes was indescribable fear. As soon as I was out of the + saddle, he had at once risen in the water and swam more calmly and + rapidly. At last under the hoofs of my exhausted animal I heard the + stones. One after another my companions came up on the shore. The + well-trained horses had brought all their burdens over. Much farther down + our colonist landed with the supplies. Without a moment’s loss we packed + our things on the horses and continued our journey. The wind was growing + stronger and colder. At the dawn of day the cold was intense. Our soaked + clothes froze and became hard as leather; our teeth chattered; and in our + eyes showed the red fires of fever: but we traveled on to put as much + space as we could between ourselves and the Partisans. Passing about + fifteen kilometres through the forest we emerged into an open valley, from + which we could see the opposite bank of the Yenisei. It was about eight + o’clock. Along the road on the other shore wound the black serpent-like + line of riders and wagons which we made out to be a column of Red soldiers + with their transport. We dismounted and hid in the bushes in order to + avoid attracting their attention. + </p> + <p> + All the day with the thermometer at zero and below we continued our + journey, only at night reaching the mountains covered with larch forests, + where we made big fires, dried our clothes and warmed ourselves + thoroughly. The hungry horses did not leave the fires but stood right + behind us with drooped heads and slept. Very early in the morning several + Soyots came to our camp. + </p> + <p> + “Ulan? (Red?)” asked one of them. + </p> + <p> + “No! No!” exclaimed all our company. + </p> + <p> + “Tzagan? (White?)” followed the new question. + </p> + <p> + “Yes, yes,” said the Tartar, “all are Whites.” + </p> + <p> + “Mende! Mende!” they grunted and, after starting their cups of tea, began + to relate very interesting and important news. It appeared that the Red + Partisans, moving from the mountains Tannu Ola, occupied with their + outposts all the border of Mongolia to stop and seize the peasants and + Soyots driving out their cattle. To pass the Tannu Ola now would be + impossible. I saw only one way—to turn sharp to the southeast, pass + the swampy valley of the Buret Hei and reach the south shore of Lake + Kosogol, which is already in the territory of Mongolia proper. It was very + unpleasant news. To the first Mongol post in Samgaltai was not more than + sixty miles from our camp, while to Kosogol by the shortest line not less + than two hundred seventy-five. The horses my friend and I were riding, + after having traveled more than six hundred miles over hard roads and + without proper food or rest, could scarcely make such an additional + distance. But, reflecting upon the situation and studying my new fellow + travelers, I determined not to attempt to pass the Tannu Ola. They were + nervous, morally weary men, badly dressed and armed and most of them were + without weapons. I knew that during a fight there is no danger so great as + that of disarmed men. They are easily caught by panic, lose their heads + and infect all the others. Therefore, I consulted with my friends and + decided to go to Kosogol. Our company agreed to follow us. After luncheon, + consisting of soup with big lumps of meat, dry bread and tea, we moved + out. About two o’clock the mountains began to rise up before us. They were + the northeast outspurs of the Tannu Ola, behind which lay the Valley of + Buret Hei. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0011" id="link2HCH0011"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XI + </h2> + <h3> + THE BARRIER OF RED PARTISANS + </h3> + <p> + In a valley between two sharp ridges we discovered a herd of yaks and + cattle being rapidly driven off to the north by ten mounted Soyots. + Approaching us warily they finally revealed that Noyon (Prince) of Todji + had ordered them to drive the herds along the Buret Hei into Mongolia, + apprehending the pillaging of the Red Partisans. They proceeded but were + informed by some Soyot hunters that this part of the Tannu Ola was + occupied by the Partisans from the village of Vladimirovka. Consequently + they were forced to return. We inquired from them the whereabouts of these + outposts and how many Partisans were holding the mountain pass over into + Mongolia. We sent out the Tartar and the Kalmuck for a reconnaissance + while all of us prepared for the further advance by wrapping the feet of + our horses in our shirts and by muzzling their noses with straps and bits + of rope so that they could not neigh. It was dark when our investigators + returned and reported to us that about thirty Partisans had a camp some + ten kilometers from us, occupying the yurtas of the Soyots. At the pass + were two outposts, one of two soldiers and the other of three. From the + outposts to the camp was a little over a mile. Our trail lay between the + two outposts. From the top of the mountain one could plainly see the two + posts and could shoot them all. When we had come near to the top of this + mountain, I left our party and, taking with me my friend, the Tartar, the + Kalmuck and two of the young officers, advanced. From the mountain I saw + about five hundred yards ahead two fires. At each of the fires sat a + soldier with his rifle and the others slept. I did not want to fight with + the Partisans but we had to do away with these outposts and that without + firing or we never should get through the pass. I did not believe the + Partisans could afterwards track us because the whole trail was thickly + marked with the spoors of horses and cattle. + </p> + <p> + “I shall take for my share these two,” whispered my friend, pointing to + the left outpost. + </p> + <p> + The rest of us were to take care of the second post. I crept along through + the bushes behind my friend in order to help him in case of need; but I am + bound to admit that I was not at all worried about him. He was about seven + feet tall and so strong that, when a horse used to refuse sometimes to + take the bit, he would wrap his arm around its neck, kick its forefeet out + from under it and throw it so that he could easily bridle it on the + ground. When only a hundred paces remained, I stood behind the bushes and + watched. I could see very distinctly the fire and the dozing sentinel. He + sat with his rifle on his knees. His companion, asleep beside him, did not + move. Their white felt boots were plainly visible to me. For a long time I + did not remark my friend. At the fire all was quiet. Suddenly from the + other outpost floated over a few dim shouts and all was still. Our + sentinel slowly raised his head. But just at this moment the huge body of + my friend rose up and blanketed the fire from me and in a twinkling the + feet of the sentinel flashed through the air, as my companion had seized + him by the throat and swung him clear into the bushes, where both figures + disappeared. In a second he re-appeared, flourished the rifle of the + Partisan over his head and I heard the dull blow which was followed by an + absolute calm. He came back toward me and, confusedly smiling, said: + </p> + <p> + “It is done. God and the Devil! When I was a boy, my mother wanted to make + a priest out of me. When I grew up, I became a trained agronome in order . + . . to strangle the people and smash their skulls. Revolution is a very + stupid thing!” + </p> + <p> + And with anger and disgust he spit and began to smoke his pipe. + </p> + <p> + At the other outpost also all was finished. During this night we reached + the top of the Tannu Ola and descended again into a valley covered with + dense bushes and twined with a whole network of small rivers and streams. + It was the headwaters of the Buret Hei. About one o’clock we stopped and + began to feed our horses, as the grass just there was very good. Here we + thought ourselves in safety. We saw many calming indications. On the + mountains were seen the grazing herds of reindeers and yaks and + approaching Soyots confirmed our supposition. Here behind the Tannu Ola + the Soyots had not seen the Red soldiers. We presented to these Soyots a + brick of tea and saw them depart happy and sure that we were “Tzagan,” a + “good people.” + </p> + <p> + While our horses rested and grazed on the well-preserved grass, we sat by + the fire and deliberated upon our further progress. There developed a + sharp controversy between two sections of our company, one led by a + Colonel who with four officers were so impressed by the absence of Reds + south of the Tannu Ola that they determined to work westward to Kobdo and + then on to the camp on the Emil River where the Chinese authorities had + interned six thousand of the forces of General Bakitch, which had come + over into Mongolian territory. My friend and I with sixteen of the + officers chose to carry through our old plan to strike for the shores of + Lake Kosogol and thence out to the Far East. As neither side could + persuade the other to abandon its ideas, our company was divided and the + next day at noon we took leave of one another. It turned out that our own + wing of eighteen had many fights and difficulties on the way, which cost + us the lives of six of our comrades, but that the remainder of us came + through to the goal of our journey so closely knit by the ties of devotion + which fighting and struggling for our very lives entailed that we have + ever preserved for one another the warmest feelings of friendship. The + other group under Colonel Jukoff perished. He met a big detachment of Red + cavalry and was defeated by them in two fights. Only two officers escaped. + They related to me this sad news and the details of the fights when we met + four months later in Urga. + </p> + <p> + Our band of eighteen riders with five packhorses moved up the valley of + the Buret Hei. We floundered in the swamps, passed innumerable miry + streams, were frozen by the cold winds and were soaked through by the snow + and sleet; but we persisted indefatigably toward the south end of Kosogol. + As a guide our Tartar led us confidently over these trails well marked by + the feet of many cattle being run out of Urianhai to Mongolia. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0012" id="link2HCH0012"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XII + </h2> + <h3> + IN THE COUNTRY OF ETERNAL PEACE + </h3> + <p> + The inhabitants of Urianhai, the Soyots, are proud of being the genuine + Buddhists and of retaining the pure doctrine of holy Rama and the deep + wisdom of Sakkia-Mouni. They are the eternal enemies of war and of the + shedding of blood. Away back in the thirteenth century they preferred to + move out from their native land and take refuge in the north rather than + fight or become a part of the empire of the bloody conqueror Jenghiz Khan, + who wanted to add to his forces these wonderful horsemen and skilled + archers. Three times in their history they have thus trekked northward to + avoid struggle and now no one can say that on the hands of the Soyots + there has ever been seen human blood. With their love of peace they + struggled against the evils of war. Even the severe Chinese administrators + could not apply here in this country of peace the full measure of their + implacable laws. In the same manner the Soyots conducted themselves when + the Russian people, mad with blood and crime, brought this infection into + their land. They avoided persistently meetings and encounters with the Red + troops and Partisans, trekking off with their families and cattle + southward into the distant principalities of Kemchik and Soldjak. The + eastern branch of this stream of emigration passed through the valley of + the Buret Hei, where we constantly outstrode groups of them with their + cattle and herds. + </p> + <p> + We traveled quickly along the winding trail of the Buret Hei and in two + days began to make the elevations of the mountain pass between the valleys + of the Buret Hei and Kharga. The trail was not only very steep but was + also littered with fallen larch trees and frequently intercepted, + incredible as it may seem, with swampy places where the horses mired + badly. Then again we picked our dangerous road over cobbles and small + stones that rolled away under our horses’ feet and bumped off over the + precipice nearby. Our horses fatigued easily in passing this moraine that + had been strewn by ancient glaciers along the mountain sides. Sometimes + the trail led right along the edge of the precipices where the horses + started great slides of stones and sand. I remember one whole mountain + covered with these moving sands. We had to leave our saddles and, taking + the bridles in our hands, to trot for a mile or more over these sliding + beds, sometimes sinking in up to our knees and going down the mountain + side with them toward the precipices below. One imprudent move at times + would have sent us over the brink. This destiny met one of our horses. + Belly down in the moving trap, he could not work free to change his + direction and so slipped on down with a mass of it until he rolled over + the precipice and was lost to us forever. We heard only the crackling of + breaking trees along his road to death. Then with great difficulty we + worked down to salvage the saddle and bags. Further along we had to + abandon one of our pack horses which had come all the way from the + northern border of Urianhai with us. We first unburdened it but this did + not help; no more did our shouting and threats. He only stood with his + head down and looked so exhausted that we realized he had reached the + further bourne of his land of toil. Some Soyots with us examined him, felt + of his muscles on the fore and hind legs, took his head in their hands and + moved it from side to side, examined his head carefully after that and + then said: + </p> + <p> + “That horse will not go further. His brain is dried out.” So we had to + leave him. + </p> + <p> + That evening we came to a beautiful change in scene when we topped a rise + and found ourselves on a broad plateau covered with larch. On it we + discovered the yurtas of some Soyot hunters, covered with bark instead of + the usual felt. Out of these ten men with rifles rushed toward us as we + approached. They informed us that the Prince of Soldjak did not allow + anyone to pass this way, as he feared the coming of murderers and robbers + into his dominions. + </p> + <p> + “Go back to the place from which you came,” they advised us with fear in + their eyes. + </p> + <p> + I did not answer but I stopped the beginnings of a quarrel between an old + Soyot and one of my officers. I pointed to the small stream in the valley + ahead of us and asked him its name. + </p> + <p> + “Oyna,” replied the Soyot. “It is the border of the principality and the + passage of it is forbidden.” + </p> + <p> + “All right,” I said, “but you will allow us to warm and rest ourselves a + little.” + </p> + <p> + “Yes, yes!” exclaimed the hospitable Soyots, and led us into their tepees. + </p> + <p> + On our way there I took the opportunity to hand to the old Soyot a + cigarette and to another a box of matches. We were all walking along + together save one Soyot who limped slowly in the rear and was holding his + hand up over his nose. + </p> + <p> + “Is he ill?” I asked. + </p> + <p> + “Yes,” sadly answered the old Soyot. “That is my son. He has been losing + blood from the nose for two days and is now quite weak.” + </p> + <p> + I stopped and called the young man to me. + </p> + <p> + “Unbutton your outer coat,” I ordered, “bare your neck and chest and turn + your face up as far as you can.” I pressed the jugular vein on both sides + of his head for some minutes and said to him: + </p> + <p> + “The blood will not flow from your nose any more. Go into your tepee and + lie down for some time.” + </p> + <p> + The “mysterious” action of my fingers created on the Soyots a strong + impression. The old Soyot with fear and reverence whispered: + </p> + <p> + “Ta Lama, Ta Lama! (Great Doctor).” + </p> + <p> + In the yurta we were given tea while the old Soyot sat thinking deeply + about something. Afterwards he took counsel with his companions and + finally announced: + </p> + <p> + “The wife of our Prince is sick in her eyes and I think the Prince will be + very glad if I lead the ‘Ta Lama’ to him. He will not punish me, for he + ordered that no ‘bad people’ should be allowed to pass; but that should + not stop the ‘good people’ from coming to us. + </p> + <p> + “Do as you think best,” I replied rather indifferently. “As a matter of + fact, I know how to treat eye diseases but I would go back if you say so.” + </p> + <p> + “No, no!” the old man exclaimed with fear. “I shall guide you myself.” + </p> + <p> + Sitting by the fire, he lighted his pipe with a flint, wiped the + mouthpiece on his sleeve and offered it to me in true native hospitality. + I was “comme il faut” and smoked. Afterwards he offered his pipe to each + one of our company and received from each a cigarette, a little tobacco or + some matches. It was the seal on our friendship. Soon in our yurta many + persons piled up around us, men, women, children and dogs. It was + impossible to move. From among them emerged a Lama with shaved face and + close cropped hair, dressed in the flowing red garment of his caste. His + clothes and his expression were very different from the common mass of + dirty Soyots with their queues and felt caps finished off with squirrel + tails on the top. The Lama was very kindly disposed towards us but looked + ever greedily at our gold rings and watches. I decided to exploit this + avidity of the Servant of Buddha. Supplying him with tea and dried bread, + I made known to him that I was in need of horses. + </p> + <p> + “I have a horse. Will you buy it from me?” he asked. “But I do not accept + Russian bank notes. Let us exchange something.” + </p> + <p> + For a long time I bargained with him and at last for my gold wedding ring, + a raincoat and a leather saddle bag I received a fine Soyot horse—to + replace one of the pack animals we had lost—and a young goat. We + spent the night here and were feasted with fat mutton. In the morning we + moved off under the guidance of the old Soyot along the trail that + followed the valley of the Oyna, free from both mountains and swamps. But + we knew that the mounts of my friend and myself, together with three + others, were too worn down to make Kosogol and determined to try to buy + others in Soldjak. Soon we began to meet little groups of Soyot yurtas + with their cattle and horses round about. Finally we approached the + shifting capital of the Prince. Our guide rode on ahead for the parley + with him after assuring us that the Prince would be glad to welcome the Ta + Lama, though at the time I remarked great anxiety and fear in his features + as he spoke. Before long we emerged on to a large plain well covered with + small bushes. Down by the shore of the river we made out big yurtas with + yellow and blue flags floating over them and easily guessed that this was + the seat of government. Soon our guide returned to us. His face was + wreathed with smiles. He flourished his hands and cried: + </p> + <p> + “Noyon (the Prince) asks you to come! He is very glad!” + </p> + <p> + From a warrior I was forced to change myself into a diplomat. As we + approached the yurta of the Prince, we were met by two officials, wearing + the peaked Mongol caps with peacock feathers rampants behind. With low + obeisances they begged the foreign “Noyon” to enter the yurta. My friend + the Tartar and I entered. In the rich yurta draped with expensive silk we + discovered a feeble, wizen-faced little old man with shaven face and + cropped hair, wearing also a high pointed beaver cap with red silk apex + topped off with a dark red button with the long peacock feathers streaming + out behind. On his nose were big Chinese spectacles. He was sitting on a + low divan, nervously clicking the beads of his rosary. This was Ta Lama, + Prince of Soldjak and High Priest of the Buddhist Temple. He welcomed us + very cordially and invited us to sit down before the fire burning in the + copper brazier. His surprisingly beautiful Princess served us with tea and + Chinese confections and cakes. We smoked our pipes, though the Prince as a + Lama did not indulge, fulfilling, however, his duty as a host by raising + to his lips the pipes we offered him and handing us in return the green + nephrite bottle of snuff. Thus with the etiquette accomplished we awaited + the words of the Prince. He inquired whether our travels had been + felicitous and what were our further plans. I talked with him quite + frankly and requested his hospitality for the rest of our company and for + the horses. He agreed immediately and ordered four yurtas set up for us. + </p> + <p> + “I hear that the foreign Noyon,” the Prince said, “is a good doctor.” + </p> + <p> + “Yes, I know some diseases and have with me some medicines,” I answered, + “but I am not a doctor. I am a scientist in other branches.” + </p> + <p> + But the Prince did not understand this. In his simple directness a man who + knows how to treat disease is a doctor. + </p> + <p> + “My wife has had constant trouble for two months with her eyes,” he + announced. “Help her.” + </p> + <p> + I asked the Princess to show me her eyes and I found the typical + conjunctivitis from the continual smoke of the yurta and the general + uncleanliness. The Tartar brought me my medicine case. I washed her eyes + with boric acid and dropped a little cocaine and a feeble solution of + sulphurate of zinc into them. + </p> + <p> + “I beg you to cure me,” pleaded the Princess. “Do not go away until you + have cured me. We shall give you sheep, milk and flour for all your + company. I weep now very often because I had very nice eyes and my husband + used to tell me they shone like the stars and now they are red. I cannot + bear it, I cannot!” + </p> + <p> + She very capriciously stamped her foot and, coquettishly smiling at me, + asked: + </p> + <p> + “Do you want to cure me? Yes?” + </p> + <p> + The character and manners of lovely woman are the same everywhere: on + bright Broadway, along the stately Thames, on the vivacious boulevards of + gay Paris and in the silk-draped yurta of the Soyot Princess behind the + larch covered Tannu Ola. + </p> + <p> + “I shall certainly try,” assuringly answered the new oculist. + </p> + <p> + We spent here ten days, surrounded by the kindness and friendship of the + whole family of the Prince. The eyes of the Princess, which eight years + ago had seduced the already old Prince Lama, were now recovered. She was + beside herself with joy and seldom left her looking-glass. + </p> + <p> + The Prince gave me five fairly good horses, ten sheep and a bag of flour, + which was immediately transformed into dry bread. My friend presented him + with a Romanoff five-hundred-rouble note with a picture of Peter the Great + upon it, while I gave to him a small nugget of gold which I had picked up + in the bed of a stream. The Prince ordered one of the Soyots to guide us + to the Kosogol. The whole family of the Prince conducted us to the + monastery ten kilometres from the “capital.” We did not visit the + monastery but we stopped at the “Dugun,” a Chinese trading establishment. + The Chinese merchants looked at us in a very hostile manner though they + simultaneously offered us all sorts of goods, thinking especially to catch + us with their round bottles (lanhon) of maygolo or sweet brandy made from + aniseed. As we had neither lump silver nor Chinese dollars, we could only + look with longing at these attractive bottles, till the Prince came to the + rescue and ordered the Chinese to put five of them in our saddle bags. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0013" id="link2HCH0013"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XIII + </h2> + <h3> + MYSTERIES, MIRACLES AND A NEW FIGHT + </h3> + <p> + In the evening of the same day we arrived at the Sacred Lake of Teri Noor, + a sheet of water eight kilometres across, muddy and yellow, with low + unattractive shores studded with large holes. In the middle of the lake + lay what was left of a disappearing island. On this were a few trees and + some old ruins. Our guide explained to us that two centuries ago the lake + did not exist and that a very strong Chinese fortress stood here on the + plain. A Chinese chief in command of the fortress gave offence to an old + Lama who cursed the place and prophesied that it would all be destroyed. + The very next day the water began rushing up from the ground, destroyed + the fortress and engulfed all the Chinese soldiers. Even to this day when + storms rage over the lake the waters cast up on the shores the bones of + men and horses who perished in it. This Teri Noor increases its size every + year, approaching nearer and nearer to the mountains. Skirting the eastern + shore of the lake, we began to climb a snow-capped ridge. The road was + easy at first but the guide warned us that the most difficult bit was + there ahead. We reached this point two days later and found there a steep + mountain side thickly set with forest and covered with snow. Beyond it lay + the lines of eternal snow—ridges studded with dark rocks set in + great banks of the white mantle that gleamed bright under the clear + sunshine. These were the eastern and highest branches of the Tannu Ola + system. We spent the night beneath this wood and began the passage of it + in the morning. At noon the guide began leading us by zigzags in and out + but everywhere our trail was blocked by deep ravines, great jams of fallen + trees and walls of rock caught in their mad tobogganings from the mountain + top. We struggled for several hours, wore out our horses and, all of a + sudden, turned up at the place where we had made our last halt. It was + very evident our Soyot had lost his way; and on his face I noticed marked + fear. + </p> + <p> + “The old devils of the cursed forest will not allow us to pass,” he + whispered with trembling lips. “It is a very ominous sign. We must return + to Kharga to the Noyon.” + </p> + <p> + But I threatened him and he took the lead again evidently without hope or + effort to find the way. Fortunately, one of our party, an Urianhai hunter, + noticed the blazes on the trees, the signs of the road which our guide had + lost. Following these, we made our way through the wood, came into and + crossed a belt of burned larch timber and beyond this dipped again into a + small live forest bordering the bottom of the mountains crowned with the + eternal snows. It grew dark so that we had to camp for the night. The wind + rose high and carried in its grasp a great white sheet of snow that shut + us off from the horizon on every side and buried our camp deep in its + folds. Our horses stood round like white ghosts, refusing to eat or to + leave the circle round our fire. The wind combed their manes and tails. + Through the niches in the mountains it roared and whistled. From somewhere + in the distance came the low rumble of a pack of wolves, punctuated at + intervals by the sharp individual barking that a favorable gust of wind + threw up into high staccato. + </p> + <p> + As we lay by the fire, the Soyot came over to me and said: “Noyon, come + with me to the obo. I want to show you something.” + </p> + <p> + We went there and began to ascend the mountain. At the bottom of a very + steep slope was laid up a large pile of stones and tree trunks, making a + cone of some three metres in height. These obo are the Lamaite sacred + signs set up at dangerous places, the altars to the bad demons, rulers of + these places. Passing Soyots and Mongols pay tribute to the spirits by + hanging on the branches of the trees in the obo hatyk, long streamers of + blue silk, shreds torn from the lining of their coats or simply tufts of + hair cut from their horses’ manes; or by placing on the stones lumps of + meat or cups of tea and salt. + </p> + <p> + “Look at it,” said the Soyot. “The hatyks are torn off. The demons are + angry, they will not allow us to pass, Noyon. . . .” + </p> + <p> + He caught my hand and with supplicating voice whispered: “Let us go back, + Noyon; let us! The demons do not wish us to pass their mountains. For + twenty years no one has dared to pass these mountains and all bold men who + have tried have perished here. The demons fell upon them with snowstorm + and cold. Look! It is beginning already. . . . Go back to our Noyon, wait + for the warmer days and then. . . .” + </p> + <p> + I did not listen further to the Soyot but turned back to the fire, which I + could hardly see through the blinding snow. Fearing our guide might run + away, I ordered a sentry to be stationed for the night to watch him. Later + in the night I was awakened by the sentry, who said to me: “Maybe I am + mistaken, but I think I heard a rifle.” + </p> + <p> + What could I say to it? Maybe some stragglers like ourselves were giving a + sign of their whereabouts to their lost companions, or perhaps the sentry + had mistaken for a rifle shot the sound of some falling rock or frozen ice + and snow. Soon I fell asleep again and suddenly saw in a dream a very + clear vision. Out on the plain, blanketed deep with snow, was moving a + line of riders. They were our pack horses, our Kalmuck and the funny pied + horse with the Roman nose. I saw us descending from this snowy plateau + into a fold in the mountains. Here some larch trees were growing, close to + which gurgled a small, open brook. Afterwards I noticed a fire burning + among the trees and then woke up. + </p> + <p> + It grew light. I shook up the others and asked them to prepare quickly so + as not to lose time in getting under way. The storm was raging. The snow + blinded us and blotted out all traces of the road. The cold also became + more intense. At last we were in the saddles. The Soyot went ahead trying + to make out the trail. As we worked higher the guide less seldom lost the + way. Frequently we fell into deep holes covered with snow; we scrambled up + over slippery rocks. At last the Soyot swung his horse round and, coming + up to me, announced very positively: “I do not want to die with you and I + will not go further.” + </p> + <p> + My first motion was the swing of my whip back over my head. I was so close + to the “Promised Land” of Mongolia that this Soyot, standing in the way of + fulfilment of my wishes, seemed to me my worst enemy. But I lowered my + flourishing hand. Into my head flashed a quite wild thought. + </p> + <p> + “Listen,” I said. “If you move your horses, you will receive a bullet in + the back and you will perish not at the top of the mountain but at the + bottom. And now I will tell you what will happen to us. When we shall have + reached these rocks above, the wind will have ceased and the snowstorm + will have subsided. The sun will shine as we cross the snowy plain above + and afterwards we shall descend into a small valley where there are + larches growing and a stream of open running water. There we shall light + our fires and spend the night.” + </p> + <p> + The Soyot began to tremble with fright. + </p> + <p> + “Noyon has already passed these mountains of Darkhat Ola?” he asked in + amazement. + </p> + <p> + “No,” I answered, “but last night I had a vision and I know that we shall + fortunately win over this ridge.” + </p> + <p> + “I will guide you!” exclaimed the Soyot, and, whipping his horse, led the + way up the steep slope to the top of the ridge of eternal snows. + </p> + <p> + As we were passing along the narrow edge of a precipice, the Soyot stopped + and attentively examined the trail. + </p> + <p> + “Today many shod horses have passed here!” he cried through the roar of + the storm. “Yonder on the snow the lash of a whip has been dragged. These + are not Soyots.” + </p> + <p> + The solution of this enigma appeared instantly. A volley rang out. One of + my companions cried out, as he caught hold of his right shoulder; one pack + horse fell dead with a bullet behind his ear. We quickly tumbled out of + our saddles, lay down behind the rocks and began to study the situation. + We were separated from a parallel spur of the mountain by a small valley + about one thousand paces across. There we made out about thirty riders + already dismounted and firing at us. I had never allowed any fighting to + be done until the initiative had been taken by the other side. Our enemy + fell upon us unawares and I ordered my company to answer. + </p> + <p> + “Aim at the horses!” cried Colonel Ostrovsky. Then he ordered the Tartar + and Soyot to throw our own animals. We killed six of theirs and probably + wounded others, as they got out of control. Also our rifles took toll of + any bold man who showed his head from behind his rock. We heard the angry + shouting and maledictions of Red soldiers who shot up our position more + and more animatedly. + </p> + <p> + Suddenly I saw our Soyot kick up three of the horses and spring into the + saddle of one with the others in leash behind. Behind him sprang up the + Tartar and the Kalmuck. I had already drawn my rifle on the Soyot but, as + soon as I saw the Tartar and Kalmuck on their lovely horses behind him, I + dropped my gun and knew all was well. The Reds let off a volley at the + trio but they made good their escape behind the rocks and disappeared. The + firing continued more and more lively and I did not know what to do. From + our side we shot rarely, saving our cartridges. Watching carefully the + enemy, I noticed two black points on the snow high above the Reds. They + slowly approached our antagonists and finally were hidden from view behind + some sharp hillocks. When they emerged from these, they were right on the + edge of some overhanging rocks at the foot of which the Reds lay concealed + from us. By this time I had no doubt that these were the heads of two men. + Suddenly these men rose up and I watched them flourish and throw something + that was followed by two deafening roars which re-echoed across the + mountain valley. Immediately a third explosion was followed by wild shouts + and disorderly firing among the Reds. Some of the horses rolled down the + slope into the snow below and the soldiers, chased by our shots, made off + as fast as they could down into the valley out of which we had come. + </p> + <p> + Afterward the Tartar told me the Soyot had proposed to guide them around + behind the Reds to fall upon their rear with the bombs. When I had bound + up the wounded shoulder of the officer and we had taken the pack off the + killed animal, we continued our journey. Our position was complicated. We + had no doubt that the Red detachment came up from Mongolia. Therefore, + were there Red troops in Mongolia? What was their strength? Where might we + meet them? Consequently, Mongolia was no more the Promised Land? Very sad + thoughts took possession of us. + </p> + <p> + But Nature pleased us. The wind gradually fell. The storm ceased. The sun + more and more frequently broke through the scudding clouds. We were + traveling upon a high, snow-covered plateau, where in one place the wind + blew it clean and in another piled it high with drifts which caught our + horses and held them so that they could hardly extricate themselves at + times. We had to dismount and wade through the white piles up to our + waists and often a man or horse was down and had to be helped to his feet. + At last the descent began and at sunset we stopped in the small larch + grove, spent the night at the fire among the trees and drank the tea + boiled in the water carried from the open mountain brook. In various + places we came across the tracks of our recent antagonists. + </p> + <p> + Everything, even Nature herself and the angry demons of Darkhat Ola, had + helped us: but we were not gay, because again before us lay the dread + uncertainty that threatened us with new and possibly destructive dangers. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0014" id="link2HCH0014"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XIV + </h2> + <h3> + THE RIVER OF THE DEVIL + </h3> + <p> + Ulan Taiga with Darkhat Ola lay behind us. We went forward very rapidly + because the Mongol plains began here, free from the impediments of + mountains. Everywhere splendid grazing lands stretched away. In places + there were groves of larch. We crossed some very rapid streams but they + were not deep and they had hard beds. After two days of travel over the + Darkhat plain we began meeting Soyots driving their cattle rapidly toward + the northwest into Orgarkha Ola. They communicated to us very unpleasant + news. + </p> + <p> + The Bolsheviki from the Irkutsk district had crossed the Mongolian border, + captured the Russian colony at Khathyl on the southern shore of Lake + Kosogol and turned, off south toward Muren Kure, a Russian settlement + beside a big Lamaite monastery sixty miles south of Kosogol. The Mongols + told us there were no Russian troops between Khathyl and Muren Kure, so we + decided to pass between these two points to reach Van Kure farther to the + east. We took leave of our Soyot guide and, after having sent three scouts + in advance, moved forward. From the mountains around the Kosogol we + admired the splendid view of this broad Alpine lake. It was set like a + sapphire in the old gold of the surrounding hills, chased with lovely bits + of rich dark forestry. At night we approached Khathyl with great + precaution and stopped on the shore of the river that flows from Kosogol, + the Yaga or Egingol. We found a Mongol who agreed to transport us to the + other bank of the frozen stream and to lead us by a safe road between + Khathyl and Muren Kure. Everywhere along the shore of the river were found + large obo and small shrines to the demons of the stream. + </p> + <p> + “Why are there so many obo?” we asked the Mongol. + </p> + <p> + “It is the River of the Devil, dangerous and crafty,” replied the Mongol. + “Two days ago a train of carts went through the ice and three of them with + five soldiers were lost.” + </p> + <p> + We started to cross. The surface of the river resembled a thick piece of + looking-glass, being clear and without snow. Our horses walked very + carefully but some fell and floundered before they could regain their + feet. We were leading them by the bridle. With bowed heads and trembling + all over they kept their frightened eyes ever on the ice at their feet. I + looked down and understood their fear. Through the cover of one foot of + transparent ice one could clearly see the bottom of the river. Under the + lighting of the moon all the stones, the holes and even some of the + grasses were distinctly visible, even though the depth was ten metres and + more. The Yaga rushed under the ice with a furious speed, swirling and + marking its course with long bands of foam and bubbles. Suddenly I jumped + and stopped as though fastened to the spot. Along the surface of the river + ran the boom of a cannon, followed by a second and a third. + </p> + <p> + “Quicker, quicker!” cried our Mongol, waving us forward with his hand. + </p> + <p> + Another cannon boom and a crack ran right close to us. The horses swung + back on their haunches in protest, reared and fell, many of them striking + their heads severely on the ice. In a second it opened up two feet wide, + so that I could follow its jagged course along the surface. Immediately up + out of the opening the water spread over the ice with a rush. + </p> + <p> + “Hurry, hurry!” shouted the guide. + </p> + <p> + With great difficulty we forced our horses to jump over this cleavage and + to continue on further. They trembled and disobeyed and only the strong + lash forced them to forget this panic of fear and go on. + </p> + <p> + When we were safe on the farther bank and well into the woods, our Mongol + guide recounted to us how the river at times opens in this mysterious way + and leaves great areas of clear water. All the men and animals on the + river at such times must perish. The furious current of cold water will + always carry them down under the ice. At other times a crack has been + known to pass right under a horse and, where he fell in with his front + feet in the attempt to get back to the other side, the crack has closed up + and ground his legs or feet right off. + </p> + <p> + The valley of Kosogol is the crater of an extinct volcano. Its outlines + may be followed from the high west shore of the lake. However, the + Plutonic force still acts and, asserting the glory of the Devil, forces + the Mongols to build obo and offer sacrifices at his shrines. We spent all + the night and all the next day hurrying away eastward to avoid a meeting + with the Reds and seeking good pasturage for our horses. At about nine + o’clock in the evening a fire shone out of the distance. My friend and I + made toward it with the feeling that it was surely a Mongol yurta beside + which we could camp in safety. We traveled over a mile before making out + distinctly the lines of a group of yurtas. But nobody came out to meet us + and, what astonished us more, we were not surrounded by the angry black + Mongolian dogs with fiery eyes. Still, from the distance we had seen the + fire and so there must be someone there. We dismounted from our horses and + approached on foot. From out of the yurta rushed two Russian soldiers, one + of whom shot at me with his pistol but missed me and wounded my horse in + the back through the saddle. I brought him to earth with my Mauser and the + other was killed by the butt end of my friend’s rifle. We examined the + bodies and found in their pockets the papers of soldiers of the Second + Squadron of the Communist Interior Defence. Here we spent the night. The + owners of the yurtas had evidently run away, for the Red soldiers had + collected and packed in sacks the property of the Mongols. Probably they + were just planning to leave, as they were fully dressed. We acquired two + horses, which we found in the bushes, two rifles and two automatic pistols + with cartridges. In the saddle bags we also found tea, tobacco, matches + and cartridges—all of these valuable supplies to help us keep + further hold on our lives. + </p> + <p> + Two days later we were approaching the shore of the River Uri when we met + two Russian riders, who were the Cossacks of a certain Ataman Sutunin, + acting against the Bolsheviki in the valley of the River Selenga. They + were riding to carry a message from Sutunin to Kaigorodoff, chief of the + Anti-Bolsheviki in the Altai region. They informed us that along the whole + Russian-Mongolian border the Bolshevik troops were scattered; also that + Communist agitators had penetrated to Kiakhta, Ulankom and Kobdo and had + persuaded the Chinese authorities to surrender to the Soviet authorities + all the refugees from Russia. We knew that in the neighborhood of Urga and + Van Kure engagements were taking place between the Chinese troops and the + detachments of the Anti-Bolshevik Russian General Baron Ungern Sternberg + and Colonel Kazagrandi, who were fighting for the independence of Outer + Mongolia. Baron Ungern had now been twice defeated, so that the Chinese + were carrying on high-handed in Urga, suspecting all foreigners of having + relations with the Russian General. + </p> + <p> + We realized that the whole situation was sharply reversed. The route to + the Pacific was closed. Reflecting very carefully over the problem, I + decided that we had but one possible exit left. We must avoid all + Mongolian cities with Chinese administration, cross Mongolia from north to + south, traverse the desert in the southern part of the Principality of + Jassaktu Khan, enter the Gobi in the western part of Inner Mongolia, + strike as rapidly as possible through sixty miles of Chinese territory in + the Province of Kansu and penetrate into Tibet. Here I hoped to search out + one of the English Consuls and with his help to reach some English port in + India. I understood thoroughly all the difficulties incident to such an + enterprise but I had no other choice. It only remained to make this last + foolish attempt or to perish without doubt at the hands of the Boisheviki + or languish in a Chinese prison. When I announced my plan to my + companions, without in any way hiding from them all its dangers and + quixotism, all of them answered very quickly and shortly: “Lead us! We + will follow.” + </p> + <p> + One circumstance was distinctly in our favor. We did not fear hunger, for + we had some supplies of tea, tobacco and matches and a surplus of horses, + saddles, rifles, overcoats and boots, which were an excellent currency for + exchange. So then we began to initiate the plan of the new expedition. We + should start to the south, leaving the town of Uliassutai on our right and + taking the direction of Zaganluk, then pass through the waste lands of the + district of Balir of Jassaktu Khan, cross the Naron Khuhu Gobi and strike + for the mountains of Boro. Here we should be able to take a long rest to + recuperate the strength of our horses and of ourselves. The second section + of our journey would be the passage through the western part of Inner + Mongolia, through the Little Gobi, through the lands of the Torguts, over + the Khara Mountains, across Kansu, where our road must be chosen to the + west of the Chinese town of Suchow. From there we should have to enter the + Dominion of Kuku Nor and then work on southward to the head waters of the + Yangtze River. Beyond this I had but a hazy notion, which however I was + able to verify from a map of Asia in the possession of one of the + officers, to the effect that the mountain chains to the west of the + sources of the Yangtze separated that river system from the basin of the + Brahmaputra in Tibet Proper, where I expected to be able to find English + assistance. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0015" id="link2HCH0015"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XV + </h2> + <h3> + THE MARCH OF GHOSTS + </h3> + <p> + In no other way can I describe the journey from the River Ero to the + border of Tibet. About eleven hundred miles through the snowy steppes, + over mountains and across deserts we traveled in forty-eight days. We hid + from the people as we journeyed, made short stops in the most desolate + places, fed for whole weeks on nothing but raw, frozen meat in order to + avoid attracting attention by the smoke of fires. Whenever we needed to + purchase a sheep or a steer for our supply department, we sent out only + two unarmed men who represented to the natives that they were the workmen + of some Russian colonists. We even feared to shoot, although we met a + great herd of antelopes numbering as many as five thousand head. Behind + Balir in the lands of the Lama Jassaktu Khan, who had inherited his throne + as a result of the poisoning of his brother at Urga by order of the Living + Buddha, we met wandering Russian Tartars who had driven their herds all + the way from Altai and Abakan. They welcomed us very cordially, gave us + oxen and thirty-six bricks of tea. Also they saved us from inevitable + destruction, for they told us that at this season it was utterly + impossible for horses to make the trip across the Gobi, where there was no + grass at all. We must buy camels by exchanging for them our horses and + some other of our bartering supplies. One of the Tartars the next day + brought to their camp a rich Mongol with whom he drove the bargain for + this trade. He gave us nineteen camels and took all our horses, one rifle, + one pistol and the best Cossack saddle. He advised us by all means to + visit the sacred Monastery of Narabanchi, the last Lamaite monastery on + the road from Mongolia to Tibet. He told us that the Holy Hutuktu, “the + Incarnate Buddha,” would be greatly offended if we did not visit the + monastery and his famous “Shrine of Blessings,” where all travelers going + to Tibet always offered prayers. Our Kalmuck Lamaite supported the Mongol + in this. I decided to go there with the Kalmuck. The Tartars gave me some + big silk hatyk as presents and loaned us four splendid horses. Although + the monastery was fifty-five miles distant, by nine o’clock in the evening + I entered the yurta of this holy Hutuktu. + </p> + <p> + He was a middle-aged, clean shaven, spare little man, laboring under the + name of Jelyb Djamsrap Hutuktu. He received us very cordially and was + greatly pleased with the presentation of the hatyk and with my knowledge + of the Mongol etiquette in which my Tartar had been long and persistently + instructing me. He listened to me most attentively and gave valuable + advice about the road, presenting me then with a ring which has since + opened for me the doors of all Lamaite monasteries. The name of this + Hutuktu is highly esteemed not only in all Mongolia but in Tibet and in + the Lamaite world of China. We spent the night in his splendid yurta and + on the following morning visited the shrines where they were conducting + very solemn services with the music of gongs, tom-toms and whistling. The + Lamas with their deep voices were intoning the prayers while the lesser + priests answered with their antiphonies. The sacred phrase: “Om! Mani + padme Hung!” was endlessly repeated. + </p> + <p> + The Hutuktu wished us success, presented us with a large yellow hatyk and + accompanied us to the monastery gate. When we were in our saddles he said: + </p> + <p> + “Remember that you are always welcome guests here. Life is very + complicated and anything may happen. Perhaps you will be forced in future + to re-visit distant Mongolia and then do not miss Narabanchi Kure.” + </p> + <p> + That night we returned to the Tartars and the next day continued our + journey. As I was very tired, the slow, easy motion of the camel was + welcome and restful to me. All the day I dozed off at intervals to sleep. + It turned out to be very disastrous for me; for, when my camel was going + up the steep bank of a river, in one of my naps I fell off and hit my head + on a stone, lost consciousness and woke up to find my overcoat covered + with blood. My friends surrounded me with their frightened faces. They + bandaged my head and we started off again. I only learned long afterwards + from a doctor who examined me that I had cracked my skull as the price of + my siesta. + </p> + <p> + We crossed the eastern ranges of the Altai and the Karlik Tag, which are + the most oriental sentinels the great Tian Shan system throws out into the + regions of the Gobi; and then traversed from the north to the south the + entire width of the Khuhu Gobi. Intense cold ruled all this time and + fortunately the frozen sands gave us better speed. Before passing the + Khara range, we exchanged our rocking-chair steeds for horses, a deal in + which the Torguts skinned us badly like the true “old clothes men” they + are. + </p> + <p> + Skirting around these mountains we entered Kansu. It was a dangerous move, + for the Chinese were arresting all refugees and I feared for my Russian + fellow-travelers. During the days we hid in the ravines, the forests and + bushes, making forced marches at night. Four days we thus used in this + passage of Kansu. The few Chinese peasants we did encounter were peaceful + appearing and most hospitable. A marked sympathetic interest surrounded + the Kalmuck, who could speak a bit of Chinese, and my box of medicines. + Everywhere we found many ill people, chiefly afflicted with eye troubles, + rheumatism and skin diseases. + </p> + <p> + As we were approaching Nan Shan, the northeast branch of the Altyn Tag + (which is in turn the east branch of the Pamir and Karakhorum system), we + overhauled a large caravan of Chinese merchants going to Tibet and joined + them. For three days we were winding through the endless ravine-like + valleys of these mountains and ascending the high passes. But we noticed + that the Chinese knew how to pick the easiest routes for caravans over all + these difficult places. In a state of semi-consciousness I made this whole + journey toward the large group of swampy lakes, feeding the Koko Nor and a + whole network of large rivers. From fatigue and constant nervous strain, + probably helped by the blow on my head, I began suffering from sharp + attacks of chills and fever, burning up at times and then chattering so + with my teeth that I frightened my horse who several times threw me from + the saddle. I raved, cried out at times and even wept. I called my family + and instructed them how they must come to me. I remember as though through + a dream how I was taken from the horse by my companions, laid on the + ground, supplied with Chinese brandy and, when I recovered a little, how + they said to me: + </p> + <p> + “The Chinese merchants are heading for the west and we must travel south.” + </p> + <p> + “No! To the north,” I replied very sharply. + </p> + <p> + “But no, to the south,” my companions assured me. + </p> + <p> + “God and the Devil!” I angrily ejaculated, “we have just swum the Little + Yenisei and Algyak is to the north!” + </p> + <p> + “We are in Tibet,” remonstrated my companions. “We must reach the + Brahmaputra.” + </p> + <p> + Brahmaputra. . . . Brahmaputra. . . . This word revolved in my fiery + brain, made a terrible noise and commotion. Suddenly I remembered + everything and opened my eyes. I hardly moved my lips and soon I again + lost consciousness. My companions brought me to the monastery of Sharkhe, + where the Lama doctor quickly brought me round with a solution of fatil or + Chinese ginseng. In discussing our plans he expressed grave doubt as to + whether we would get through Tibet but he did not wish to explain to me + the reason for his doubts. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0016" id="link2HCH0016"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XVI + </h2> + <h3> + IN MYSTERIOUS TIBET + </h3> + <p> + A fairly broad road led out from Sharkhe through the mountains and on the + fifth day of our two weeks’ march to the south from the monastery we + emerged into the great bowl of the mountains in whose center lay the large + lake of Koko Nor. If Finland deserves the ordinary title of the “Land of + Ten Thousand Lakes,” the dominion of Koko Nor may certainly with justice + be called the “Country of a Million Lakes.” We skirted this lake on the + west between it and Doulan Kitt, zigzagging between the numerous swamps, + lakes and small rivers, deep and miry. The water was not here covered with + ice and only on the tops of the mountains did we feel the cold winds + sharply. We rarely met the natives of the country and only with greatest + difficulty did our Kalmuck learn the course of the road from the + occasional shepherds we passed. From the eastern shore of the Lake of + Tassoun we worked round to a monastery on the further side, where we + stopped for a short rest. Besides ourselves there was also another group + of guests in the holy place. These were Tibetans. Their behavior was very + impertinent and they refused to speak with us. They were all armed, + chiefly with the Russian military rifles and were draped with crossed + bandoliers of cartridges with two or three pistols stowed beneath belts + with more cartridges sticking out. They examined us very sharply and we + readily realized that they were estimating our martial strength. After + they had left on that same day I ordered our Kalmuck to inquire from the + High Priest of the temple exactly who they were. For a long time the monk + gave evasive answers but when I showed him the ring of Hutuktu Narabanchi + and presented him with a large yellow hatyk, he became more communicative. + </p> + <p> + “Those are bad people,” he explained. “Have a care of them.” + </p> + <p> + However, he was not willing to give their names, explaining his refusal by + citing the Law of Buddhist lands against pronouncing the name of one’s + father, teacher or chief. Afterwards I found out that in North Tibet there + exists the same custom as in North China. Here and there bands of + hunghutze wander about. They appear at the headquarters of the leading + trading firms and at the monasteries, claim tribute and after their + collections become the protectors of the district. Probably this Tibetan + monastery had in this band just such protectors. + </p> + <p> + When we continued our trip, we frequently noticed single horsemen far away + or on the horizon, apparently studying our movements with care. All our + attempts to approach them and enter into conversation with them were + entirely unsuccessful. On their speedy little horses they disappeared like + shadows. As we reached the steep and difficult Pass on the Hamshan and + were preparing to spend the night there, suddenly far up on a ridge above + us appeared about forty horsemen with entirely white mounts and without + formal introduction or warning spattered us with a hail of bullets. Two of + our officers fell with a cry. One had been instantly killed while the + other lived some few minutes. I did not allow my men to shoot but instead + I raised a white flag and started forward with the Kalmuck for a parley. + At first they fired two shots at us but then ceased firing and sent down a + group of riders from the ridge toward us. We began the parley. The + Tibetans explained that Hamshan is a holy mountain and that here one must + not spend the night, advising us to proceed farther where we could + consider ourselves in safety. They inquired from us whence we came and + whither we were going, stated in answer to our information about the + purpose of our journey that they knew the Bolsheviki and considered them + the liberators of the people of Asia from the yoke of the white race. I + certainly did not want to begin a political quarrel with them and so + turned back to our companions. Riding down the slope toward our camp, I + waited momentarily for a shot in the back but the Tibetan hunghutze did + not shoot. + </p> + <p> + We moved forward, leaving among the stones the bodies of two of our + companions as sad tribute to the difficulties and dangers of our journey. + We rode all night, with our exhausted horses constantly stopping and some + lying down under us, but we forced them ever onward. At last, when the sun + was at its zenith, we finally halted. Without unsaddling our horses, we + gave them an opportunity to lie down for a little rest. Before us lay a + broad, swampy plain, where was evidently the sources of the river Ma-chu. + Not far beyond lay the Lake of Aroung Nor. We made our fire of cattle dung + and began boiling water for our tea. Again without any warning the bullets + came raining in from all sides. Immediately we took cover behind + convenient rocks and waited developments. The firing became faster and + closer, the raiders appeared on the whole circle round us and the bullets + came ever in increasing numbers. We had fallen into a trap and had no hope + but to perish. We realized this clearly. I tried anew to begin the parley; + but when I stood up with my white flag, the answer was only a thicker rain + of bullets and unfortunately one of these, ricocheting off a rock, struck + me in the left leg and lodged there. At the same moment another one of our + company was killed. We had no other choice and were forced to begin + fighting. The struggle continued for about two hours. Besides myself three + others received slight wounds. We resisted as long as we could. The + hunghutze approached and our situation became desperate. + </p> + <p> + “There’s no choice,” said one of my associates, a very expert Colonel. “We + must mount and ride for it . . . anywhere.” + </p> + <p> + “Anywhere. . . .” It was a terrible word! We consulted for but an instant. + It was apparent that with this band of cut-throats behind us the farther + we went into Tibet, the less chance we had of saving our lives. + </p> + <p> + We decided to return to Mongolia. But how? That we did not know. And thus + we began our retreat. Firing all the time, we trotted our horses as fast + as we could toward the north. One after another three of my companions + fell. There lay my Tartar with a bullet through his neck. After him two + young and fine stalwart officers were carried from their saddles with + cries of death, while their scared horses broke out across the plain in + wild fear, perfect pictures of our distraught selves. This emboldened the + Tibetans, who became more and more audacious. A bullet struck the buckle + on the ankle strap of my right foot and carried it, with a piece of + leather and cloth, into my leg just above the ankle. My old and much tried + friend, the agronome, cried out as he grasped his shoulder and then I saw + him wiping and bandaging as best as he could his bleeding forehead. A + second afterward our Kalmuck was hit twice right through the palm of the + same hand, so that it was entirely shattered. Just at this moment fifteen + of the hunghutze rushed against us in a charge. + </p> + <p> + “Shoot at them with volley fire!” commanded our Colonel. + </p> + <p> + Six robber bodies lay on the turf, while two others of the gang were + unhorsed and ran scampering as fast as they could after their retreating + fellows. Several minutes later the fire of our antagonists ceased and they + raised a white flag. Two riders came forward toward us. In the parley it + developed that their chief had been wounded through the chest and they + came to ask us to “render first aid.” At once I saw a ray of hope. I took + my box of medicines and my groaning, cursing, wounded Kalmuck to interpret + for me. + </p> + <p> + “Give that devil some cyanide of potassium,” urged my companions. + </p> + <p> + But I devised another scheme. + </p> + <p> + We were led to the wounded chief. There he lay on the saddle cloths among + the rocks, represented to us to be a Tibetan but I at once recognized him + from his cast of countenance to be a Sart or Turcoman, probably from the + southern part of Turkestan. He looked at me with a begging and frightened + gaze. Examining him, I found the bullet had passed through his chest from + left to right, that he had lost much blood and was very weak. + Conscientiously I did all that I could for him. In the first place I tried + on my own tongue all the medicines to be used on him, even the iodoform, + in order to demonstrate that there was no poison among them. I cauterized + the wound with iodine, sprinkled it with iodoform and applied the + bandages. I ordered that the wounded man be not touched nor moved and that + he be left right where he lay. Then I taught a Tibetan how the dressing + must be changed and left with him medicated cotton, bandages and a little + iodoform. To the patient, in whom the fever was already developing, I gave + a big dose of aspirin and left several tablets of quinine with them. + Afterwards, addressing myself to the bystanders through my Kalmuck, I said + very solemnly: + </p> + <p> + “The wound is very dangerous but I gave to your Chief very strong medicine + and hope that he will recover. One condition, however, is necessary: the + bad demons which have rushed to his side for his unwarranted attack upon + us innocent travelers will instantly kill him, if another shot is let off + against us. You must not even keep a single cartridge in your rifles.” + </p> + <p> + With these words I ordered the Kalmuck to empty his rifle and I, at the + same time, took all the cartridges out of my Mauser. The Tibetans + instantly and very servilely followed my example. + </p> + <p> + “Remember that I told you: ‘Eleven days and eleven nights do not move from + this place and do not charge your rifles.’ Otherwise the demon of death + will snatch off your Chief and will pursue you!”—and with these + words I solemnly drew forth and raised above their heads the ring of + Hutuktu Narabanchi. + </p> + <p> + I returned to my companions and calmed them. I told them we were safe + against further attack from the robbers and that we must only guess the + way to reach Mongolia. Our horses were so exhausted and thin that on their + bones we could have hung our overcoats. We spent two days here, during + which time I frequently visited my patient. It also gave us opportunity to + bandage our own fortunately light wounds and to secure a little rest; + though unfortunately I had nothing but a jackknife with which to dig the + bullet out of my left calf and the shoemaker’s accessories from my right + ankle. Inquiring from the brigands about the caravan roads, we soon made + our way out to one of the main routes and had the good fortune to meet + there the caravan of the young Mongol Prince Pounzig, who was on a holy + mission carrying a message from the Living Buddha in Urga to the Dalai + Lama in Lhasa. He helped us to purchase horses, camels and food. + </p> + <p> + With all our arms and supplies spent in barter during the journey for the + purchase of transport and food, we returned stripped and broken to the + Narabanchi Monastery, where we were welcomed by the Hutuktu. + </p> + <p> + “I knew you would come back,” said he. “The divinations revealed it all to + me.” + </p> + <p> + With six of our little band left behind us in Tibet to pay the eternal + toll of our dash for the south we returned but twelve to the Monastery and + waited there two weeks to re-adjust ourselves and learn how events would + again set us afloat on this turbulent sea to steer for any port that + Destiny might indicate. The officers enlisted in the detachment which was + then being formed in Mongolia to fight against the destroyers of their + native land, the Bolsheviki. My original companion and I prepared to + continue our journey over Mongolian plains with whatever further + adventures and dangers might come in the struggle to escape to a place of + safety. + </p> + <p> + And now, with the scenes of that trying march so vividly recalled, I would + dedicate these chapters to my gigantic, old and ruggedly tried friend, the + agronome, to my Russian fellow-travelers, and especially, to the sacred + memory of those of our companions whose bodies lie cradled in the sleep + among the mountains of Tibet—Colonel Ostrovsky, Captains Zuboff and + Turoff, Lieutenant Pisarjevsky, Cossack Vernigora and Tartar Mahomed + Spirin. Also here I express my deep thanks for help and friendship to the + Prince of Soldjak, Hereditary Noyon Ta Lama and to the Kampo Gelong of + Narabanchi Monastery, the honorable Jelyb Djamsrap Hutuktu. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_PART2" id="link2H_PART2"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Part II + </h2> + <h3> + THE LAND OF DEMONS + </h3> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0017" id="link2HCH0017"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XVII + </h2> + <h3> + MYSTERIOUS MONGOLIA + </h3> + <p> + In the heart of Asia lies the enormous, mysterious and rich country of + Mongolia. From somewhere on the snowy slopes of the Tian Shan and from the + hot sands of Western Zungaria to the timbered ridges of the Sayan and to + the Great Wall of China it stretches over a huge portion of Central Asia. + The cradle of peoples, histories and legends; the native land of bloody + conquerors, who have left here their capitals covered by the sand of the + Gobi, their mysterious rings and their ancient nomad laws; the states of + monks and evil devils, the country of wandering tribes administered by the + descendants of Jenghiz Khan and Kublai Khan—Khans and Princes of the + Junior lines: that is Mongolia. + </p> + <p> + Mysterious country of the cults of Rama, Sakkia-Mouni, Djonkapa and Paspa, + cults guarded by the very person of the living Buddha—Buddha + incarnated in the third dignitary of the Lamaite religion—Bogdo + Gheghen in Ta Kure or Urga; the land of mysterious doctors, prophets, + sorcerers, fortune-tellers and witches; the land of the sign of the + swastika; the land which has not forgotten the thoughts of the long + deceased great potentates of Asia and of half of Europe: that is Mongolia. + </p> + <p> + The land of nude mountains, of plains burned by the sun and killed by the + cold, of ill cattle and ill people; the nest of pests, anthrax and + smallpox; the land of boiling hot springs and of mountain passes inhabited + by demons; of sacred lakes swarming with fish; of wolves, rare species of + deer and mountain goats, marmots in millions, wild horses, wild donkeys + and wild camels that have never known the bridle, ferocious dogs and + rapacious birds of prey which devour the dead bodies cast out on the + plains by the people: that is Mongolia. + </p> + <p> + The land whose disappearing primitive people gaze upon the bones of their + forefathers whitening in the sands and dust of their plains; where are + dying out the people who formerly conquered China, Siam, Northern India + and Russia and broke their chests against the iron lances of the Polish + knights, defending then all the Christian world against the invasion of + wild and wandering Asia: that is Mongolia. + </p> + <p> + The land swelling with natural riches, producing nothing, in need of + everything, destitute and suffering from the world’s cataclysm: that is + Mongolia. + </p> + <p> + In this land, by order of Fate, after my unsuccessful attempt to reach the + Indian Ocean through Tibet, I spent half a year in the struggle to live + and to escape. My old and faithful friend and I were compelled, + willy-nilly, to participate in the exceedingly important and dangerous + events transpiring in Mongolia in the year of grace 1921. Thanks to this, + I came to know the calm, good and honest Mongolian people; I read their + souls, saw their sufferings and hopes; I witnessed the whole horror of + their oppression and fear before the face of Mystery, there where Mystery + pervades all life. I watched the rivers during the severe cold break with + a rumbling roar their chains of ice; saw lakes cast up on their shores the + bones of human beings; heard unknown wild voices in the mountain ravines; + made out the fires over miry swamps of the will-o’-the-wisps; witnessed + burning lakes; gazed upward to mountains whose peaks could not be scaled; + came across great balls of writhing snakes in the ditches in winter; met + with streams which are eternally frozen, rocks like petrified caravans of + camels, horsemen and carts; and over all saw the barren mountains whose + folds looked like the mantle of Satan, which the glow of the evening sun + drenched with blood. + </p> + <p> + “Look up there!” cried an old shepherd, pointing to the slope of the + cursed Zagastai. “That is no mountain. It is HE who lies in his red mantle + and awaits the day when he will rise again to begin the fight with the + good spirits.” + </p> + <p> + And as he spoke I recalled the mystic picture of the noted painter + Vroubel. The same nude mountains with the violet and purple robes of + Satan, whose face is half covered by an approaching grey cloud. Mongolia + is a terrible land of mystery and demons. Therefore it is no wonder that + here every violation of the ancient order of life of the wandering nomad + tribes is transformed into streams of red blood and horror, ministering to + the demonic pleasure of Satan couched on the bare mountains and robed in + the grey cloak of dejection and sadness, or in the purple mantle of war + and vengeance. + </p> + <p> + After returning from the district of Koko Nor to Mongolia and resting a + few days at the Narabanchi Monastery, we went to live in Uliassutai, the + capital of Western Outer Mongolia. It is the last purely Mongolian town to + the west. In Mongolia there are but three purely Mongolian towns, Urga, + Uliassutai and Ulankom. The fourth town, Kobdo, has an essentially Chinese + character, being the center of Chinese administration in this district + inhabited by the wandering tribes only nominally recognizing the influence + of either Peking or Urga. In Uliassutai and Ulankom, besides the unlawful + Chinese commissioners and troops, there were stationed Mongolian governors + or “Saits,” appointed by the decree of the Living Buddha. + </p> + <p> + When we arrived in that town, we were at once in the sea of political + passions. The Mongols were protesting in great agitation against the + Chinese policy in their country; the Chinese raged and demanded from the + Mongolians the payment of taxes for the full period since the autonomy of + Mongolia had been forcibly extracted from Peking; Russian colonists who + had years before settled near the town and in the vicinity of the great + monasteries or among the wandering tribes had separated into factions and + were fighting against one another; from Urga came the news of the struggle + for the maintenance of the independence of Outer Mongolia, led by the + Russian General, Baron Ungern von Sternberg; Russian officers and refugees + congregated in detachments, against which the Chinese authorities + protested but which the Mongols welcomed; the Bolsheviki, worried by the + formation of White detachments in Mongolia, sent their troops to the + borders of Mongolia; from Irkutsk and Chita to Uliassutai and Urga envoys + were running from the Bolsheviki to the Chinese commissioners with various + proposals of all kinds; the Chinese authorities in Mongolia were gradually + entering into secret relations with the Bolsheviki and in Kiakhta and + Ulankom delivered to them the Russian refugees, thus violating recognized + international law; in Urga the Bolsheviki set up a Russian communistic + municipality; Russian Consuls were inactive; Red troops in the region of + Kosogol and the valley of the Selenga had encounters with Anti-Bolshevik + officers; the Chinese authorities established garrisons in the Mongolian + towns and sent punitive expeditions into the country; and, to complete the + confusion, the Chinese troops carried out house-to-house searches, during + which they plundered and stole. + </p> + <p> + Into what an atmosphere we had fallen after our hard and dangerous trip + along the Yenisei, through Urianhai, Mongolia, the lands of the Turguts, + Kansu and Koko Nor! + </p> + <p> + “Do you know,” said my old friend to me, “I prefer strangling Partisans + and fighting with the hunghutze to listening to news and more anxious + news!” + </p> + <p> + He was right; for the worst of it was that in this bustle and whirl of + facts, rumours and gossip the Reds could approach troubled Uliassutai and + take everyone with their bare hands. We should very willingly have left + this town of uncertainties but we had no place to go. In the north were + the hostile Partisans and Red troops; to the south we had already lost our + companions and not a little of our own blood; to the west raged the + Chinese administrators and detachments; and to the east a war had broken + out, the news of which, in spite of the attempts of the Chinese + authorities at secrecy, had filtered through and had testified to the + seriousness of the situation in this part of Outer Mongolia. Consequently + we had no choice but to remain in Uliassutai. Here also were living + several Polish soldiers who had escaped from the prison camps in Russia, + two Polish families and two American firms, all in the same plight as + ourselves. We joined together and made our own intelligence department, + very carefully watching the evolution of events. We succeeded in forming + good connections with the Chinese commissioner and with the Mongolian + Sait, which greatly helped us in our orientation. + </p> + <p> + What was behind all these events in Mongolia? The very clever Mongol Sait + of Uliassutai gave me the following explanation. + </p> + <p> + “According to the agreements between Mongolia, China and Russia of October + 21, 1912, of October 23, 1913, and of June 7, 1915, Outer Mongolia was + accorded independence and the Moral Head of our ‘Yellow Faith,’ His + Holiness the Living Buddha, became the Suzerain of the Mongolian people of + Khalkha or Outer Mongolia with the title of ‘Bogdo Djebtsung Damba Hutuktu + Khan.’ While Russia was still strong and carefully watched her policy in + Asia, the Government of Peking kept the treaty; but, when, at the + beginning of the war with Germany, Russia was compelled to withdraw her + troops from Siberia, Peking began to claim the return of its lost rights + in Mongolia. It was because of this that the first two treaties of 1912 + and 1913 were supplemented by the convention of 1915. However, in 1916, + when all the forces of Russia were pre-occupied in the unsuccessful war + and afterwards when the first Russian revolution broke out in February, + 1917, overthrowing the Romanoff Dynasty, the Chinese Government openly + retook Mongolia. They changed all the Mongolian ministers and Saits, + replacing them with individuals friendly to China; arrested many Mongolian + autonomists and sent them to prison in Peking; set up their administration + in Urga and other Mongol towns; actually removed His Holiness Bogdo Khan + from the affairs of administration; made him only a machine for signing + Chinese decrees; and at last introduced into Mongolia their troops. From + that moment there developed an energetic flow of Chinese merchants and + coolies into Mongolia. The Chinese began to demand the payment of taxes + and dues from 1912. The Mongolian population were rapidly stripped of + their wealth and now in the vicinities of our towns and monasteries you + can see whole settlements of beggar Mongols living in dugouts. All our + Mongol arsenals and treasuries were requisitioned. All monasteries were + forced to pay taxes; all Mongols working for the liberty of their country + were persecuted; through bribery with Chinese silver, orders and titles + the Chinese secured a following among the poorer Mongol Princes. It is + easy to understand how the governing class, His Holiness, Khans, Princes, + and high Lamas, as well as the ruined and oppressed people, remembering + that the Mongol rulers had once held Peking and China in their hands and + under their reign had given her the first place in Asia, were definitely + hostile to the Chinese administrators acting thus. Insurrection was, + however, impossible. We had no arms. All our leaders were under + surveillance and every movement by them toward an armed resistance would + have ended in the same prison at Peking where eighty of our Nobles, + Princes and Lamas died from hunger and torture after a previous struggle + for the liberty of Mongolia. Some abnormally strong shock was necessary to + drive the people into action. This was given by the Chinese + administrators, General Cheng Yi and General Chu Chi-hsiang. They + announced that His Holiness Bogdo Khan was under arrest in his own palace, + and they recalled to his attention the former decree of the Peking + Government—held by the Mongols to be unwarranted and illegal—that + His Holiness was the last Living Buddha. This was enough. Immediately + secret relations were made between the people and their Living God, and + plans were at once elaborated for the liberation of His Holiness and for + the struggle for liberty and freedom of our people. We were helped by the + great Prince of the Buriats, Djam Bolon, who began parleys with General + Ungern, then engaged in fighting the Bolsheviki in Transbaikalia, and + invited him to enter Mongolia and help in the war against the Chinese. + Then our struggle for liberty began.” + </p> + <p> + Thus the Sait of Uliassutai explained the situation to me. Afterwards I + heard that Baron Ungern, who had agreed to fight for the liberty of + Mongolia, directed that the mobilization of the Mongolians in the northern + districts be forwarded at once and promised to enter Mongolia with his own + small detachment, moving along the River Kerulen. Afterwards he took up + relations with the other Russian detachment of Colonel Kazagrandi and, + together with the mobilized Mongolian riders, began the attack on Urga. + Twice he was defeated but on the third of February, 1921, he succeeded in + capturing the town and replaced the Living Buddha on the throne of the + Khans. + </p> + <p> + At the end of March, however, these events were still unknown in + Uliassutai. We knew neither of the fall of Urga nor of the destruction of + the Chinese army of nearly 15,000 in the battles of Maimachen on the shore + of the Tola and on the roads between Urga and Ude. The Chinese carefully + concealed the truth by preventing anybody from passing westward from Urga. + However, rumours existed and troubled all. The atmosphere became more and + more tense, while the relations between the Chinese on the one side and + the Mongolians and Russians on the other became more and more strained. At + this time the Chinese Commissioner in Uliassutai was Wang Tsao-tsun and + his advisor, Fu Hsiang, both very young and inexperienced men. The Chinese + authorities had dismissed the Uliassutai Sait, the prominent Mongolian + patriot, Prince Chultun Beyle, and had appointed a Lama Prince friendly to + China, the former Vice-Minister of War in Urga. Oppression increased. The + searching of Russian officers’ and colonists’ houses and quarters + commenced, open relations with the Bolsheviki followed and arrest and + beatings became common. The Russian officers formed a secret detachment of + sixty men so that they could defend themselves. However, in this + detachment disagreements soon sprang up between Lieutenant-Colonel M. M. + Michailoff and some of his officers. It was evident that in the decisive + moment the detachment must separate into factions. + </p> + <p> + We foreigners in council decided to make a thorough reconnaissance in + order to know whether there was danger of Red troops arriving. My old + companion and I agreed to do this scouting. Prince Chultun Beyle gave us a + very good guide—an old Mongol named Tzeren, who spoke and read + Russian perfectly. He was a very interesting personage, holding the + position of interpreter with the Mongolian authorities and sometimes with + the Chinese Commissioner. Shortly before he had been sent as a special + envoy to Peking with very important despatches and this incomparable + horseman had made the journey between Uliassutai and Peking, that is 1,800 + miles, in nine days, incredible as it may seem. He prepared himself for + the journey by binding all his abdomen and chest, legs, arms and neck with + strong cotton bandages to protect himself from the wracks and strains of + such a period in the saddle. In his cap he bore three eagle feathers as a + token that he had received orders to fly like a bird. Armed with a special + document called a tzara, which gave him the right to receive at all post + stations the best horses, one to ride and one fully saddled to lead as a + change, together with two oulatchen or guards to accompany him and bring + back the horses from the next station or ourton, he made the distance of + from fifteen to thirty miles between stations at full gallop, stopping + only long enough to have the horses and guards changed before he was off + again. Ahead of him rode one oulatchen with the best horses to enable him + to announce and prepare in advance the complement of steeds at the next + station. Each oulatchen had three horses in all, so that he could swing + from one that had given out and release him to graze until his return to + pick him up and lead or ride him back home. At every third ourton, without + leaving his saddle, he received a cup of hot green tea with salt and + continued his race southward. After seventeen or eighteen hours of such + riding he stopped at the ourton for the night or what was left of it, + devoured a leg of boiled mutton and slept. Thus he ate once a day and five + times a day had tea; and so he traveled for nine days! + </p> + <p> + With this servant we moved out one cold winter morning in the direction of + Kobdo, just over three hundred miles, because from there we had received + the disquieting rumours that the Red troops had entered Ulankom and that + the Chinese authorities had handed over to them all the Europeans in the + town. We crossed the River Dzaphin on the ice. It is a terrible stream. + Its bed is full of quicksands, which in summer suck in numbers of camels, + horses and men. We entered a long, winding valley among the mountains + covered with deep snow and here and there with groves of the black wood of + the larch. About halfway to Kobdo we came across the yurta of a shepherd + on the shore of the small Lake of Baga Nor, where evening and a strong + wind whirling gusts of snow in our faces easily persuaded us to stop. By + the yurta stood a splendid bay horse with a saddle richly ornamerited with + silver and coral. As we turned in from the road, two Mongols left the + yurta very hastily; one of them jumped into the saddle and quickly + disappeared in the plain behind the snowy hillocks. We clearly made out + the flashing folds of his yellow robe under the great outer coat and saw + his large knife sheathed in a green leather scabbard and handled with horn + and ivory. The other man was the host of the yurta, the shepherd of a + local prince, Novontziran. He gave signs of great pleasure at seeing us + and receiving us in his yurta. + </p> + <p> + “Who was the rider on the bay horse?” we asked. + </p> + <p> + He dropped his eyes and was silent. + </p> + <p> + “Tell us,” we insisted. “If you do not wish to speak his name, it means + that you are dealing with a bad character.” + </p> + <p> + “No! No!” he remonstrated, flourishing his hands. “He is a good, great + man; but the law does not permit me to speak his name.” + </p> + <p> + We at once understood that the man was either the chief of the shepherd or + some high Lama. Consequently we did not further insist and began making + our sleeping arrangements. Our host set three legs of mutton to boil for + us, skillfully cutting out the bones with his heavy knife. We chatted and + learned that no one had seen Red troops around this region but in Kobdo + and in Ulankom the Chinese soldiers were oppressing the population, and + were beating to death with the bamboo Mongol men who were defending their + women against the ravages of these Chinese troops. Some of the Mongols had + retreated to the mountains to join detachments under the command of + Kaigordoff, an Altai Tartar officer who was supplying them with weapons. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0018" id="link2HCH0018"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XVIII + </h2> + <h3> + THE MYSTERIOUS LAMA AVENGER + </h3> + <p> + We rested soundly in the yurta after the two days of travel which had + brought us one hundred seventy miles through the snow and sharp cold. + Round the evening meal of juicy mutton we were talking freely and + carelessly when suddenly we heard a low, hoarse voice: + </p> + <p> + “Sayn—Good evening!” + </p> + <p> + We turned around from the brazier to the door and saw a medium height, + very heavy set Mongol in deerskin overcoat and cap with side flaps and the + long, wide tying strings of the same material. Under his girdle lay the + same large knife in the green sheath which we had seen on the departing + horseman. + </p> + <p> + “Amoursayn,” we answered. + </p> + <p> + He quickly untied his girdle and laid aside his overcoat. He stood before + us in a wonderful gown of silk, yellow as beaten gold and girt with a + brilliant blue sash. His cleanly shaven face, short hair, red coral rosary + on the left hand and his yellow garment proved clearly that before us + stood some high Lama Priest,—with a big Colt under his blue sash! + </p> + <p> + I turned to my host and Tzeren and read in their faces fear and + veneration. The stranger came over to the brazier and sat down. + </p> + <p> + “Let’s speak Russian,” he said and took a bit of meat. + </p> + <p> + The conversation began. The stranger began to find fault with the + Government of the Living Buddha in Urga. + </p> + <p> + “There they liberate Mongolia, capture Urga, defeat the Chinese army and + here in the west they give us no news of it. We are without action here + while the Chinese kill our people and steal from them. I think that Bogdo + Khan might send us envoys. How is it the Chinese can send their envoys + from Urga and Kiakhta to Kobdo, asking for assistance, and the Mongol + Government cannot do it? Why?” + </p> + <p> + “Will the Chinese send help to Urga?” I asked. + </p> + <p> + Our guest laughed hoarsely and said: “I caught all the envoys, took away + their letters and then sent them back . . . into the ground.” + </p> + <p> + He laughed again and glanced around peculiarly with his blazing eyes. Only + then did I notice that his cheekbones and eyes had lines strange to the + Mongols of Central Asia. He looked more like a Tartar or a Kirghiz. We + were silent and smoked our pipes. + </p> + <p> + “How soon will the detachment of Chahars leave Uliassutai?” he asked. + </p> + <p> + We answered that we had not heard about them. Our guest explained that + from Inner Mongolia the Chinese authorities had sent out a strong + detachment, mobilized from among the most warlike tribe of Chahars, which + wander about the region just outside the Great Wall. Its chief was a + notorious hunghutze leader promoted by the Chinese Government to the rank + of captain on promising that he would bring under subjugation to the + Chinese authorities all the tribes of the districts of Kobdo and Urianhai. + When he learned whither we were going and for what purpose, he said he + could give us the most accurate news and relieve us from the necessity of + going farther. + </p> + <p> + “Besides that, it is very dangerous,” he said, “because Kobdo will be + massacred and burned. I know this positively.” + </p> + <p> + When he heard of our unsuccessful attempt to pass through Tibet, he became + attentive and very sympathetic in his bearing toward us and, with evident + feeling of regret, expressed himself strongly: + </p> + <p> + “Only I could have helped you in this enterprise, but not the Narabanchi + Hutuktu. With my laissez-passer you could have gone anywhere in Tibet. I + am Tushegoun Lama.” + </p> + <p> + Tushegoun Lama! How many extraordinary tales I had heard about him. He is + a Russian Kalmuck, who because of his propaganda work for the independence + of the Kalmuck people made the acquaintance of many Russian prisons under + the Czar and, for the same cause, added to his list under the Bolsheviki. + He escaped to Mongolia and at once attained to great influence among the + Mongols. It was no wonder, for he was a close friend and pupil of the + Dalai Lama in Potala (Lhasa), was the most learned among the Lamites, a + famous thaumaturgist and doctor. He occupied an almost independent + position in his relationship with the Living Buddha and achieved to the + leadership of all the old wandering tribes of Western Mongolia and + Zungaria, even extending his political domination over the Mongolian + tribes of Turkestan. His influence was irresistible, based as it was on + his great control of mysterious science, as he expressed it; but I was + also told that it has its foundation largely in the panicky fear which he + could produce in the Mongols. Everyone who disobeyed his orders perished. + Such an one never knew the day or the hour when, in his yurta or beside + his galloping horse on the plains, the strange and powerful friend of the + Dalai Lama would appear. The stroke of a knife, a bullet or strong fingers + strangling the neck like a vise accomplished the justice of the plans of + this miracle worker. + </p> + <p> + Without the walls of the yurta the wind whistled and roared and drove the + frozen snow sharply against the stretched felt. Through the roar of the + wind came the sound of many voices in mingled shouting, wailing and + laughter. I felt that in such surroundings it were not difficult to + dumbfound a wandering nomad with miracles, because Nature herself had + prepared the setting for it. This thought had scarcely time to flash + through my mind before Tushegoun Lama suddenly raised his head, looked + sharply at me and said: + </p> + <p> + “There is very much unknown in Nature and the skill of using the unknown + produces the miracle; but the power is given to few. I want to prove it to + you and you may tell me afterwards whether you have seen it before or + not.” + </p> + <p> + He stood up, pushed back the sleeves of his yellow garment, seized his + knife and strode across to the shepherd. + </p> + <p> + “Michik, stand up!” he ordered. + </p> + <p> + When the shepherd had risen, the Lama quickly unbuttoned his coat and + bared the man’s chest. I could not yet understand what was his intention, + when suddenly the Tushegoun with all his force struck his knife into the + chest of the shepherd. The Mongol fell all covered with blood, a splash of + which I noticed on the yellow silk of the Lama’s coat. + </p> + <p> + “What have you done?” I exclaimed. + </p> + <p> + “Sh! Be still,” he whispered turning to me his now quite blanched face. + </p> + <p> + With a few strokes of the knife he opened the chest of the Mongol and I + saw the man’s lungs softly breathing and the distinct palpitations of the + heart. The Lama touched these organs with his fingers but no more blood + appeared to flow and the face of the shepherd was quite calm. He was lying + with his eyes closed and appeared to be in deep and quiet sleep. As the + Lama began to open his abdomen, I shut my eyes in fear and horror; and, + when I opened them a little while later, I was still more dumbfounded at + seeing the shepherd with his coat still open and his breast normal, + quietly sleeping on his side and Tushegoun Lama sitting peacefully by the + brazier, smoking his pipe and looking into the fire in deep thought. + </p> + <p> + “It is wonderful!” I confessed. “I have never seen anything like it!” + </p> + <p> + “About what are you speaking?” asked the Kalmuck. + </p> + <p> + “About your demonstration or ‘miracle,’ as you call it,” I answered. + </p> + <p> + “I never said anything like that,” refuted the Kalmuck, with coldness in + his voice. + </p> + <p> + “Did you see it?” I asked of my companion. + </p> + <p> + “What?” he queried in a dozing voice. + </p> + <p> + I realized that I had become the victim of the hypnotic power of Tushegoun + Lama; but I preferred this to seeing an innocent Mongolian die, for I had + not believed that Tushegoun Lama, after slashing open the bodies of his + victims, could repair them again so readily. + </p> + <p> + The following day we took leave of our hosts. We decided to return, + inasmuch as our mission was accomplished; and Tushegoun Lama explained to + us that he would “move through space.” He wandered over all Mongolia, + lived both in the single, simple yurta of the shepherd and hunter and in + the splendid tents of the princes and tribal chiefs, surrounded by deep + veneration and panic-fear, enticing and cementing to him rich and poor + alike with his miracles and prophecies. When bidding us adieu, the Kalmuck + sorcerer slyly smiled and said: + </p> + <p> + “Do not give any information about me to the Chinese authorities.” + </p> + <p> + Afterwards he added: “What happened to you yesterday evening was a futile + demonstration. You Europeans will not recognize that we dark-minded nomads + possess the powers of mysterious science. If you could only see the + miracles and power of the Most Holy Tashi Lama, when at his command the + lamps and candles before the ancient statue of Buddha light themselves and + when the ikons of the gods begin to speak and prophesy! But there exists a + more powerful and more holy man. . .” + </p> + <p> + “Is it the King of the World in Agharti?” I interrupted. + </p> + <p> + He stared and glanced at me in amazement. + </p> + <p> + “Have you heard about him?” he asked, as his brows knit in thought. + </p> + <p> + After a few seconds he raised his narrow eyes and said: “Only one man + knows his holy name; only one man now living was ever in Agharti. That is + I. This is the reason why the Most Holy Dalai Lama has honored me and why + the Living Buddha in Urga fears me. But in vain, for I shall never sit on + the Holy Throne of the highest priest in Lhasa nor reach that which has + come down from Jenghiz Khan to the Head of our yellow Faith. I am no monk. + I am a warrior and avenger.” + </p> + <p> + He jumped smartly into the saddle, whipped his horse and whirled away, + flinging out as he left the common Mongolian phrase of adieu: “Sayn! + Sayn-bayna!” + </p> + <p> + On the way back Tzeren related to us the hundreds of legends surrounding + Tushegoun Lama. One tale especially remained in my mind. It was in 1911 or + 1912 when the Mongols by armed force tried to attain their liberty in a + struggle with the Chinese. The general Chinese headquarters in Western + Mongolia was Kobdo, where they had about ten thousand soldiers under the + command of their best officers. The command to capture Kobdo was sent to + Hun Baldon, a simple shepherd who had distinguished himself in fights with + the Chinese and received from the Living Buddha the title of Prince of + Hun. Ferocious, absolutely without fear and possessing gigantic strength, + Baldon had several times led to the attack his poorly armed Mongols but + each time had been forced to retreat after losing many of his men under + the machine-gun fire. Unexpectedly Tushegoun Lama arrived. He collected + all the soldiers and then said to them: + </p> + <p> + “You must not fear death and must not retreat. You are fighting and dying + for Mongolia, for which the gods have appointed a great destiny. See what + the fate of Mongolia will be!” + </p> + <p> + He made a great sweeping gesture with his hand and all the soldiers saw + the country round about set with rich yurtas and pastures covered with + great herds of horses and cattle. On the plains appeared numerous horsemen + on richly saddled steeds. The women were gowned in the finest of silk with + massive silver rings in their ears and precious ornaments in their + elaborate head dresses. Chinese merchants led an endless caravan of + merchandise up to distinguished looking Mongol Saits, surrounded by the + gaily dressed tzirik or soldiers and proudly negotiating with the + merchants for their wares. + </p> + <p> + Shortly the vision disappeared and Tushegoun began to speak. + </p> + <p> + “Do not fear death! It is a release from our labor on earth and the path + to the state of constant blessings. Look to the East! Do you see your + brothers and friends who have fallen in battle?” + </p> + <p> + “We see, we see!” the Mongol warriors exclaimed in astonishment, as they + all looked upon a great group of dwellings which might have been yurtas or + the arches of temples flushed with a warm and kindly light. Red and yellow + silk were interwoven in bright bands that covered the walls and floor, + everywhere the gilding on pillars and walls gleamed brightly; on the great + red altar burned the thin sacrificial candles in gold candelabra, beside + the massive silver vessels filled with milk and nuts; on soft pillows + about the floor sat the Mongols who had fallen in the previous attack on + Kobdo. Before them stood low, lacquered tables laden with many dishes of + steaming, succulent flesh of the lamb and the kid, with high jugs of wine + and tea, with plates of borsuk, a kind of sweet, rich cakes, with aromatic + zatouran covered with sheep’s fat, with bricks of dried cheese, with + dates, raisins and nuts. These fallen soldiers smoked golden pipes and + chatted gaily. + </p> + <p> + This vision in turn also disappeared and before the gazing Mongols stood + only the mysterious Kalmuck with his hand upraised. + </p> + <p> + “To battle and return not without victory! I am with you in the fight.” + </p> + <p> + The attack began. The Mongols fought furiously, perished by the hundreds + but not before they had rushed into the heart of Kobdo. Then was + re-enacted the long forgotten picture of Tartar hordes destroying European + towns. Hun Baldon ordered carried over him a triangle of lances with + brilliant red streamers, a sign that he gave up the town to the soldiers + for three days. Murder and pillage began. All the Chinese met their death + there. The town was burned and the walls of the fortress destroyed. + Afterwards Hun Baldon came to Uliassutai and also destroyed the Chinese + fortress there. The ruins of it still stand with the broken embattlements + and towers, the useless gates and the remnants of the burned official + quarters and soldiers’ barracks. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0019" id="link2HCH0019"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XIX + </h2> + <h3> + WILD CHAHARS + </h3> + <p> + After our return to Uliassutai we heard that disquieting news had been + received by the Mongol Sait from Muren Kure. The letter stated that Red + Troops were pressing Colonel Kazagrandi very hard in the region of Lake + Kosogol. The Sait feared the advance of the Red troops southward to + Uliassutai. Both the American firms liquidated their affairs and all our + friends were prepared for a quick exit, though they hesitated at the + thought of leaving the town, as they were afraid of meeting the detachment + of Chahars sent from the east. We decided to await the arrival of this + detachment, as their coming could change the whole course of events. In a + few days they came, two hundred warlike Chahar brigands under the command + of a former Chinese hunghutze. He was a tall, skinny man with hands that + reached almost to his knees, a face blackened by wind and sun and + mutilated with two long scars down over his forehead and cheek, the making + of one of which had also closed one of his hawklike eyes, topped off with + a shaggy coonskin cap—such was the commander of the detachment of + Chahars. A personage very dark and stern, with whom a night meeting on a + lonely street could not be considered a pleasure by any bent of the + imagination. + </p> + <p> + The detachment made camp within the destroyed fortress, near to the single + Chinese building that had not been razed and which was now serving as + headquarters for the Chinese Commissioner. On the very day of their + arrival the Chahars pillaged a Chinese dugun or trading house not half a + mile from the fortress and also offended the wife of the Chinese + Commissioner by calling her a “traitor.” The Chahars, like the Mongols, + were quite right in their stand, because the Chinese Commissioner Wang + Tsao-tsun had on his arrival in Uliassutai followed the Chinese custom of + demanding a Mongolian wife. The servile new Sait had given orders that a + beautiful and suitable Mongolian girl be found for him. One was so run + down and placed in his yamen, together with her big wrestling Mongol + brother who was to be a guard for the Commissioner but who developed into + the nurse for the little white Pekingese pug which the official presented + to his new wife. + </p> + <p> + Burglaries, squabbles and drunken orgies of the Chahars followed, so that + Wang Tsoa-tsun exerted all his efforts to hurry the detachment westward to + Kobdo and farther into Urianhai. + </p> + <p> + One cold morning the inhabitants of Uliassutai rose to witness a very + stern picture. Along the main street of the town the detachment was + passing. They were riding on small, shaggy ponies, three abreast; were + dressed in warm blue coats with sheepskin overcoats outside and crowned + with the regulation coonskin caps; armed from head to foot. They rode with + wild shouts and cheers, very greedily eyeing the Chinese shops and the + houses of the Russian colonists. At their head rode the one-eyed hunghutze + chief with three horsemen behind him in white overcoats, who carried + waving banners and blew what may have been meant for music through great + conch shells. One of the Chahars could not resist and so jumped out of his + saddle and made for a Chinese shop along the street. Immediately the + anxious cries of the Chinese merchants came from the shop. The hunghutze + swung round, noticed the horse at the door of the shop and realized what + was happening. Immediately he reined his horse and made for the spot. With + his raucous voice he called the Chahar out. As he came, he struck him full + in the face with his whip and with all his strength. Blood flowed from the + slashed cheek. But the Chahar was in the saddle in a second without a + murmur and galloped to his place in the file. During this exit of the + Chahars all the people were hidden in their houses, anxiously peeping + through cracks and corners of the windows. But the Chahars passed + peacefully out and only when they met a caravan carrying Chinese wine + about six miles from town did their native tendency display itself again + in pillaging and emptying several containers. Somewhere in the vicinity of + Hargana they were ambushed by Tushegoun Lama and so treated that never + again will the plains of Chahar welcome the return of these warrior sons + who were sent out to conquer the Soyot descendants of the ancient Tuba. + </p> + <p> + The day the column left Uliassutai a heavy snow fell, so that the road + became impassable. The horses first were up to their knees, tired out and + stopped. Some Mongol horsemen reached Uliassutai the following day after + great hardship and exertion, having made only twenty-five miles in + forty-eight hours. Caravans were compelled to stop along the routes. The + Mongols would not consent even to attempt journeys with oxen and yaks + which made but ten or twelve miles a day. Only camels could be used but + there were too few and their drivers did not feel that they could make the + first railway station of Kuku-Hoto, which was about fourteen hundred miles + away. We were forced again to wait: for which? Death or salvation? Only + our own energy and force could save us. Consequently my friend and I + started out, supplied with a tent, stove and food, for a new + reconnaissance along the shore of Lake Kosogol, whence the Mongol Sait + expected the new invasion of Red troops. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0020" id="link2HCH0020"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XX + </h2> + <h3> + THE DEMON OF JAGISSTAI + </h3> + <p> + Our small group consisting of four mounted and one pack camel moved + northward along the valley of the River Boyagol in the direction of the + Tarbagatai Mountains. The road was rocky and covered deep with snow. Our + camels walked very carefully, sniffing out the way as our guide shouted + the “Ok! Ok!” of the camel drivers to urge them on. We left behind us the + fortress and Chinese dugun, swung round the shoulder of a ridge and, after + fording several times an open stream, began the ascent of the mountain. + The scramble was hard and dangerous. Our camels picked their way most + cautiously, moving their ears constantly, as is their habit in such + stress. The trail zigzagged into mountain ravines, passed over the tops of + ridges, slipped back down again into shallower valleys but ever made + higher and higher altitudes. At one place under the grey clouds that + tipped the ridges we saw away up on the wide expanse of snow some black + spots. + </p> + <p> + “Those are the obo, the sacred signs and altars for the bad demons + watching this pass,” explained the guide. “This pass is called Jagisstai. + Many very old tales about it have been kept alive, ancient as these + mountains themselves.” + </p> + <p> + We encouraged him to tell us some of them. + </p> + <p> + The Mongol, rocking on his camel and looking carefully all around him, + began his tale. + </p> + <p> + “It was long ago, very long ago. . . . The grandson of the great Jenghiz + Khan sat on the throne of China and ruled all Asia. The Chinese killed + their Khan and wanted to exterminate all his family but a holy old Lama + slipped the wife and little son out of the palace and carried them off on + swift camels beyond the Great Wall, where they sank into our native + plains. The Chinese made a long search for the trails of our refugees and + at last found where they had gone. They despatched a strong detachment on + fleet horses to capture them. Sometimes the Chinese nearly came up with + the fleeing heir of our Khan but the Lama called down from Heaven a deep + snow, through which the camels could pass while the horses were + inextricably held. This Lama was from a distant monastery. We shall pass + this hospice of Jahantsi Kure. In order to reach it one must cross over + the Jagisstai. And it was just here the old Lama suddenly became ill, + rocked in his saddle and fell dead. Ta Sin Lo, the widow of the Great + Khan, burst into tears; but, seeing the Chinese riders galloping there + below across the valley, pressed on toward the pass. The camels were + tired, stopping every moment, nor did the woman know how to stimulate and + drive them on. The Chinese riders came nearer and nearer. Already she + heard their shouts of joy, as they felt within their grasp the prize of + the mandarins for the murder of the heir of the Great Khan. The heads of + the mother and the son would be brought to Peking and exposed on the + Ch’ien Men for the mockery and insults of the people. The frightened + mother lifted her little son toward heaven and exclaimed: + </p> + <p> + “‘Earth and Gods of Mongolia, behold the offspring of the man who has + glorified the name of the Mongols from one end of the world to the other! + Allow not this very flesh of Jenghiz Khan to perish!’ + </p> + <p> + “At this moment she noticed a white mouse sitting on a rock nearby. It + jumped to her knees and said: + </p> + <p> + “‘I am sent to help you. Go on calmly and do not fear. The pursuers of you + and your son, to whom is destined a life of glory, have come to the last + bourne of their lives.’ + </p> + <p> + “Ta Sin Lo did not see how one small mouse could hold in check three + hundred men. The mouse jumped back to the ground and again spoke: + </p> + <p> + “‘I am the demon of Tarbagatai, Jagasstai. I am mighty and beloved of the + Gods but, because you doubted the powers of the miracle-speaking mouse, + from this day the Jagasstai will be dangerous for the good and bad alike.’ + </p> + <p> + “The Khan’s widow and son were saved but Jagasstai has ever remained + merciless. During the journey over this pass one must always be on one’s + guard. The demon of the mountain is ever ready to lead the traveler to + destruction.” + </p> + <p> + All the tops of the ridges of the Tarbagatai are thickly dotted with the + obo of rocks and branches. In one place there was even erected a tower of + stones as an altar to propitiate the Gods for the doubts of Ta Sin Lo. + Evidently the demon expected us. When we began our ascent of the main + ridge, he blew into our faces with a sharp, cold wind, whistled and roared + and afterwards began casting over us whole blocks of snow torn off the + drifts above. We could not distinguish anything around us, scarcely seeing + the camel immediately in front. Suddenly I felt a shock and looked about + me. Nothing unusual was visible. I was seated comfortably between two + leather saddle bags filled with meat and bread but . . . I could not see + the head of my camel. He had disappeared. It seemed that he had slipped + and fallen to the bottom of a shallow ravine, while the bags which were + slung across his back without straps had caught on a rock and stopped with + myself there in the snow. This time the demon of Jagasstai only played a + joke but one that did not satisfy him. He began to show more and more + anger. With furious gusts of wind he almost dragged us and our bags from + the camels and nearly knocked over our humped steeds, blinded us with + frozen snow and prevented us from breathing. Through long hours we dragged + slowly on in the deep snow, often falling over the edge of the rocks. At + last we entered a small valley where the wind whistled and roared with a + thousand voices. It had grown dark. The Mongol wandered around searching + for the trail and finally came back to us, flourishing his arms and + saying: + </p> + <p> + “We have lost the road. We must spend the night here. It is very bad + because we shall have no wood for our stove and the cold will grow worse.” + </p> + <p> + With great difficulties and with frozen hands we managed to set up our + tent in the wind, placing in it the now useless stove. We covered the tent + with snow, dug deep, long ditches in the drifts and forced our camels to + lie down in them by shouting the “Dzuk! Dzuk!” command to kneel. Then we + brought our packs into the tent. + </p> + <p> + My companion rebelled against the thought of spending a cold night with a + stove hard by. + </p> + <p> + “I am going out to look for firewood,” said he very decisively; and at + that took up the ax and started. He returned after an hour with a big + section of a telegraph pole. + </p> + <p> + “You, Jenghiz Khans,” said he, rubbing his frozen hands, “take your axes + and go up there to the left on the mountain and you will find the + telegraph poles that have been cut down. I made acquaintance with the old + Jagasstai and he showed me the poles.” + </p> + <p> + Just a little way from us the line of the Russian telegraphs passed, that + which had connected Irkutsk with Uliassutai before the days of the + Bolsheviki and which the Chinese had commanded the Mongols to cut down and + take the wire. These poles are now the salvation of travelers crossing the + pass. Thus we spent the night in a warm tent, supped well from hot meat + soup with vermicelli, all in the very center of the dominion of the + angered Jagasstai. Early the next morning we found the road not more than + two or three hundred paces from our tent and continued our hard trip over + the ridge of Tarbagatai. At the head of the Adair River valley we noticed + a flock of the Mongolian crows with carmine beaks circling among the + rocks. We approached the place and discovered the recently fallen bodies + of a horse and rider. What had happened to them was difficult to guess. + They lay close together; the bridle was wound around the right wrist of + the man; no trace of knife or bullet was found. It was impossible to make + out the features of the man. His overcoat was Mongolian but his trousers + and under jacket were not of the Mongolian pattern. We asked ourselves + what had happened to him. + </p> + <p> + Our Mongol bowed his head in anxiety and said in hushed but assured tones: + “It is the vengeance of Jagasstai. The rider did not make sacrifice at the + southern obo and the demon has strangled him and his horse.” + </p> + <p> + At last Tarbagatai was behind us. Before us lay the valley of the Adair. + It was a narrow zigzagging plain following along the river bed between + close mountain ranges and covered with a rich grass. It was cut into two + parts by the road along which the prostrate telegraph poles now lay, as + the stumps of varying heights and long stretches of wire completed the + debris. This destruction of the telegraph line between Irkutsk and + Uliassutai was necessary and incident to the aggressive Chinese policy in + Mongolia. + </p> + <p> + Soon we began to meet large herds of sheep, which were digging through the + snow to the dry but very nutritious grass. In some places yaks and oxen + were seen on the high slopes of the mountains. Only once, however, did we + see a shepherd, for all of them, spying us first, had made off to the + mountains or hidden in the ravines. We did not even discover any yurtas + along the way. The Mongols had also concealed all their movable homes in + the folds of the mountains out of sight and away from the reach of the + strong winds. Nomads are very skilful in choosing the places for their + winter dwellings. I had often in winter visited the Mongolian yurtas set + in such sheltered places that, as I came off the windy plains, I felt as + though I were in a conservatory. Once we came up to a big herd of sheep. + But as we approached most of the herd gradually withdrew, leaving one part + that remained unmoved as the other worked off across the plains. From this + section soon about thirty of forty head emerged and went scrambling and + leaping right up the mountain side. I took up my glasses and began to + observe them. The part of the herd that remained behind were common sheep; + the large section that had drawn off over the plain were Mongolian + antelopes (gazella gutturosa); while the few that had taken to the + mountain were the big horned sheep (ovis argali). All this company had + been grazing together with the domestic sheep on the plains of the Adair, + which attracted them with its good grass and clear water. In many places + the river was not frozen and in some places I saw great clouds of steam + over the surface of the open water. In the meantime some of the antelopes + and the mountain sheep began looking at us. + </p> + <p> + “Now they will soon begin to cross our trail,” laughed the Mongol; “very + funny beasts. Sometimes the antelopes course for miles in their endeavor + to outrun and cross in front of our horses and then, when they have done + so, go loping quietly off.” + </p> + <p> + I had already seen this strategy of the antelopes and I decided to make + use of it for the purpose of the hunt. We organized our chase in the + following manner. We let one Mongol with the pack camel proceed as we had + been traveling and the other three of us spread out like a fan headed + toward the herd on the right of our true course. The herd stopped and + looked about puzzled, for their etiquette required that they should cross + the path of all four of these riders at once. Confusion began. They + counted about three thousand heads. All this army began to run from one + side to another but without forming any distinct groups. Whole squadrons + of them ran before us and then, noticing another rider, came coursing back + and made anew the same manoeuvre. One group of about fifty head rushed in + two rows toward my point. When they were about a hundred and fifty paces + away I shouted and fired. They stopped at once and began to whirl round in + one spot, running into one another and even jumping over one another. + Their panic cost them dear, for I had time to shoot four times to bring + down two beautiful heads. My friend was even more fortunate than I, for he + shot only once into the herd as it rushed past him in parallel lines and + dropped two with the same bullet. + </p> + <p> + Meanwhile the argali had gone farther up the mountainside and taken stand + there in a row like so many soldiers, turning to gaze at us. Even at this + distance I could clearly distinguish their muscular bodies with their + majestic heads and stalwart horns. Picking up our prey, we overtook the + Mongol who had gone on ahead and continued our way. In many places we came + across the carcasses of sheep with necks torn and the flesh of the sides + eaten off. + </p> + <p> + “It is the work of wolves,” said the Mongol. “They are always hereabout in + large numbers.” + </p> + <p> + We came across several more herds of antelope, which ran along quietly + enough until they had made a comfortable distance ahead of us and then + with tremendous leaps and bounds crossed our bows like the proverbial + chicken on the road. Then, after a couple of hundred paces at this speed, + they stopped and began to graze quite calmly. Once I turned my camel back + and the whole herd immediately took up the challenge again, coursed along + parallel with me until they had made sufficient distance for their ideas + of safety and then once more rushed across the road ahead of me as though + it were paved with red hot stones, only to assume their previous calmness + and graze back on the same side of the trail from which our column had + first started them. On another occasion I did this three times with a + particular herd and laughed long and heartily at their stupid customs. + </p> + <p> + We passed a very unpleasant night in this valley. We stopped on the shore + of the frozen stream in a spot where we found shelter from the wind under + the lee of a high shore. In our stove we did have a fire and in our kettle + boiling water. Also our tent was warm and cozy. We were quietly resting + with pleasant thoughts of supper to soothe us, when suddenly a howling and + laughter as though from some inferno burst upon us from just outside the + tent, while from the other side of the valley came the long and doleful + howls in answer. + </p> + <p> + “Wolves,” calmly explained the Mongol, who took my revolver and went out + of the tent. He did not return for some time but at last we heard a shot + and shortly after he entered. + </p> + <p> + “I scared them a little,” said he. “They had congregated on the shore of + the Adair around the body of a camel.” + </p> + <p> + “And they have not touched our camels?” we asked. + </p> + <p> + “We shall make a bonfire behind our tent; then they will not bother us.” + </p> + <p> + After our supper we turned in but I lay awake for a long time listening to + the crackle of the wood in the fire, the deep sighing breaths of the + camels and the distant howling of the packs of wolves; but finally, even + with all these noises, fell asleep. How long I had been asleep I did not + know when suddenly I was awakened by a strong blow in the side. I was + lying at the very edge of the tent and someone from outside had, without + the least ceremony, pushed strongly against me. I thought it was one of + the camels chewing the felt of the tent. I took my Mauser and struck the + wall. A sharp scream was followed by the sound of quick running over the + pebbles. In the morning we discovered the tracks of wolves approaching our + tent from the side opposite to the fire and followed them to where they + had begun to dig under the tent wall; but evidently one of the would-be + robbers was forced to retreat with a bruise on his head from the handle of + the Mauser. + </p> + <p> + Wolves and eagles are the servants of Jagasstai, the Mongol very seriously + instructed us. However, this does not prevent the Mongols from hunting + them. Once in the camp of Prince Baysei I witnessed such a hunt. The + Mongol horsemen on the best of his steeds overtook the wolves on the open + plain and killed them with heavy bamboo sticks or tashur. A Russian + veterinary surgeon taught the Mongols to poison wolves with strychnine but + the Mongols soon abandoned this method because of its danger to the dogs, + the faithful friends and allies of the nomad. They do not, however, touch + the eagles and hawks but even feed them. When the Mongols are slaughtering + animals they often cast bits of meat up into the air for the hawks and + eagles to catch in flight, just as we throw a bit of meat to a dog. Eagles + and hawks fight and drive away the magpies and crows, which are very + dangerous for cattle and horses, because they scratch and peck at the + smallest wound or abrasion on the backs of the animals until they make + them into uncurable areas which they continue to harass. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0021" id="link2HCH0021"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXI + </h2> + <h3> + THE NEST OF DEATH + </h3> + <p> + Our camels were trudging to a slow but steady measure on toward the north. + We were making twenty-five to thirty miles a day as we approached a small + monastery that lay to the left of our route. It was in the form of a + square of large buildings surrounded by a high fence of thick poles. Each + side had an opening in the middle leading to the four entrances of the + temple in the center of the square. The temple was built with the red + lacquered columns and the Chinese style roofs and dominated the + surrounding low dwellings of the Lamas. On the opposite side of the road + lay what appeared to be a Chinese fortress but which was in reality a + trading compound or dugun, which the Chinese always build in the form of a + fortress with double walls a few feet apart, within which they place their + houses and shops and usually have twenty or thirty traders fully armed for + any emergency. In case of need these duguns can be used as blockhouses and + are capable of withstanding long sieges. Between the dugun and the + monastery and nearer to the road I made out the camp of some nomads. Their + horses and cattle were nowhere to be seen. Evidently the Mongols had + stopped here for some time and had left their cattle in the mountains. + Over several yurtas waved multi-colored triangular flags, a sign of the + presence of disease. Near some yurtas high poles were stuck into the + ground with Mongol caps at their tops, which indicated that the host of + the yurta had died. The packs of dogs wandering over the plain showed that + the dead bodies lay somewhere near, either in the ravines or along the + banks of the river. + </p> + <p> + As we approached the camp, we heard from a distance the frantic beating of + drums, the mournful sounds of the flute and shrill, mad shouting. Our + Mongol went forward to investigate for us and reported that several + Mongolian families had come here to the monastery to seek aid from the + Hutuktu Jahansti who was famed for his miracles of healing. The people + were stricken with leprosy and black smallpox and had come from long + distances only to find that the Hutuktu was not at the monastery but had + gone to the Living Buddha in Urga. Consequently they had been forced to + invite the witch doctors. The people were dying one after another. Just + the day before they had cast on the plain the twenty-seventh man. + </p> + <p> + Meanwhile, as we talked, the witch doctor came out of one of the yurtas. + He was an old man with a cataract on one eye and with a face deeply + scarred by smallpox. He was dressed in tatters with various colored bits + of cloth hanging down from his waist. He carried a drum and a flute. We + could see froth on his blue lips and madness in his eyes. Suddenly he + began to whirl round and dance with a thousand prancings of his long legs + and writhings of his arms and shoulders, still beating the drum and + playing the flute or crying and raging at intervals, ever accelerating his + movements until at last with pallid face and bloodshot eyes he fell on the + snow, where he continued to writhe and give out his incoherent cries. In + this manner the doctor treated his patients, frightening with his madness + the bad devils that carry disease. Another witch doctor gave his patients + dirty, muddy water, which I learned was the water from the bath of the + very person of the Living Buddha who had washed in it his “divine” body + born from the sacred flower of the lotus. + </p> + <p> + “Om! Om!” both witches continuously screamed. + </p> + <p> + While the doctors fought with the devils, the ill people were left to + themselves. They lay in high fever under the heaps of sheepskins and + overcoats, were delirious, raved and threw themselves about. By the + braziers squatted adults and children who were still well, indifferently + chatting, drinking tea and smoking. In all the yurtas I saw the diseased + and the dead and such misery and physical horrors as cannot be described. + </p> + <p> + And I thought: “Oh, Great Jenghiz Khan! Why did you with your keen + understanding of the whole situation of Asia and Europe, you who devoted + all your life to the glory of the name of the Mongols, why did you not + give to your own people, who preserve their old morality, honesty and + peaceful customs, the enlightenment that would have saved them from such + death? Your bones in the mausoleum at Karakorum being destroyed by the + centuries that pass over them must cry out against the rapid disappearance + of your formerly great people, who were feared by half the civilized + world!” + </p> + <p> + Such thoughts filled my brain when I saw this camp of the dead tomorrow + and when I heard the groans, shoutings and raving of dying men, women and + children. Somewhere in the distance the dogs were howling mournfully, and + monotonously the drum of the tired witch rolled. + </p> + <p> + “Forward!” I could not witness longer this dark horror, which I had no + means or force to eradicate. We quickly passed on from the ominous place. + Nor could we shake the thought that some horrible invisible spirit was + following us from this scene of terror. “The devils of disease?” “The + pictures of horror and misery?” “The souls of men who have been sacrificed + on the altar of darkness of Mongolia?” An inexplicable fear penetrated + into our consciousness from whose grasp we could not release ourselves. + Only when we had turned from the road, passed over a timbered ridge into a + bowl in the mountains from which we could see neither Jahantsi Kure, the + dugun nor the squirming grave of dying Mongols could we breathe freely + again. + </p> + <p> + Presently we discovered a large lake. It was Tisingol. Near the shore + stood a large Russian house, the telegraph station between Kosogol and + Uliassutai. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0022" id="link2HCH0022"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXII + </h2> + <h3> + AMONG THE MURDERERS + </h3> + <p> + As we approached the telegraph station, we were met by a blonde young man + who was in charge of the office, Kanine by name. With some little + confusion he offered us a place in his house for the night. When we + entered the room, a tall, lanky man rose from the table and indecisively + walked toward us, looking very attentively at us the while. + </p> + <p> + “Guests . . .” explained Kanine. “They are going to Khathyl. Private + persons, strangers, foreigners . . .” + </p> + <p> + “A-h,” drawled the stranger in a quiet, comprehending tone. + </p> + <p> + While we were untying our girdles and with difficulty getting out of our + great Mongolian coats, the tall man was animatedly whispering something to + our host. As we approached the table to sit down and rest, I overheard him + say: “We are forced to postpone it,” and saw Kanine simply nod in answer. + </p> + <p> + Several other people were seated at the table, among them the assistant of + Kanine, a tall blonde man with a white face, who talked like a Gatling gun + about everything imaginable. He was half crazy and his semi-madness + expressed itself when any loud talking, shouting or sudden sharp report + led him to repeat the words of the one to whom he was talking at the time + or to relate in a mechanical, hurried manner stories of what was happening + around him just at this particular juncture. The wife of Kanine, a pale, + young, exhausted-looking woman with frightened eyes and a face distorted + by fear, was also there and near her a young girl of fifteen with cropped + hair and dressed like a man, as well as the two small sons of Kanine. We + made acquaintance with all of them. The tall stranger called himself + Gorokoff, a Russian colonist from Samgaltai, and presented the + short-haired girl as his sister. Kanine’s wife looked at us with plainly + discernible fear and said nothing, evidently displeased over our being + there. However, we had no choice and consequently began drinking tea and + eating our bread and cold meat. + </p> + <p> + Kanine told us that ever since the telegraph line had been destroyed all + his family and relatives had felt very keenly the poverty and hardship + that naturally followed. The Bolsheviki did not send him any salary from + Irkutsk, so that he was compelled to shift for himself as best he could. + They cut and cured hay for sale to the Russian colonists, handled private + messages and merchandise from Khathyl to Uliassutai and Samgaltai, bought + and sold cattle, hunted and in this manner managed to exist. Gorokoff + announced that his commercial affairs compelled him to go to Khathyl and + that he and his sister would be glad to join our caravan. He had a most + unprepossessing, angry-looking face with colorless eyes that always + avoided those of the person with whom he was speaking. During the + conversation we asked Kanine if there were Russian colonists near by, to + which he answered with knitted brow and a look of disgust on his face: + </p> + <p> + “There is one rich old man, Bobroff, who lives a verst away from our + station; but I would not advise you to visit him. He is a miserly, + inhospitable old fellow who does not like guests.” + </p> + <p> + During these words of her husband Madame Kanine dropped her eyes and + contracted her shoulders in something resembling a shudder. Gorokoff and + his sister smoked along indifferently. I very clearly remarked all this as + well as the hostile tone of Kanine, the confusion of his wife and the + artificial indifference of Gorokoff; and I determined to see the old + colonist given such a bad name by Kanine. In Uliassutai I knew two + Bobroffs. I said to Kanine that I had been asked to hand a letter + personally to Bobroff and, after finishing my tea, put on my overcoat and + went out. + </p> + <p> + The house of Bobroff stood in a deep sink in the mountains, surrounded by + a high fence over which the low roofs of the houses could be seen. A light + shone through the window. I knocked at the gate. A furious barking of dogs + answered me and through the cracks of the fence I made out four huge black + Mongol dogs, showing their teeth and growling as they rushed toward the + gate. Inside the court someone opened the door and called out: “Who is + there?” + </p> + <p> + I answered that I was traveling through from Uliassutai. The dogs were + first caught and chained and I was then admitted by a man who looked me + over very carefully and inquiringly from head to foot. A revolver handle + stuck out of his pocket. Satisfied with his observations and learning that + I knew his relatives, he warmly welcomed me to the house and presented me + to his wife, a dignified old woman, and to his beautiful little adopted + daughter, a girl of five years. She had been found on the plain beside the + dead body of her mother exhausted in her attempt to escape from the + Bolsheviki in Siberia. + </p> + <p> + Bobroff told me that the Russian detachment of Kazagrandi had succeeded in + driving the Red troops away from the Kosogol and that we could + consequently continue our trip to Khathyl without danger. + </p> + <p> + “Why did you not stop with me instead of with those brigands?” asked the + old fellow. + </p> + <p> + I began to question him and received some very important news. It seemed + that Kanine was a Bolshevik, the agent of the Irkutsk Soviet, and + stationed here for purposes of observation. However, now he was rendered + harmless, because the road between him and Irkutsk was interrupted. Still + from Biisk in the Altai country had just come a very important commissar. + </p> + <p> + “Gorokoff?” I asked. + </p> + <p> + “That’s what he calls himself,” replied the old fellow; “but I am also + from Biisk and I know everyone there. His real name is Pouzikoff and the + short-haired girl with him is his mistress. He is the commissar of the + ‘Cheka’ and she is the agent of this establishment. Last August the two of + them shot with their revolvers seventy bound officers from Kolchak’s army. + Villainous, cowardly murderers! Now they have come here for a + reconnaissance. They wanted to stay in my house but I knew them too well + and refused them place.” + </p> + <p> + “And you do not fear him?” I asked, remembering the different words and + glances of these people as they sat at the table in the station. + </p> + <p> + “No,” answered the old man. “I know how to defend myself and my family and + I have a protector too—my son, such a shot, a rider and a fighter as + does not exist in all Mongolia. I am very sorry that you will not make the + acquaintance of my boy. He has gone off to the herds and will return only + tomorrow evening.” + </p> + <p> + We took most cordial leave of each other and I promised to stop with him + on my return. + </p> + <p> + “Well, what yarns did Bobroff tell you about us?” was the question with + which Kanine and Gorokoff met me when I came back to the station. + </p> + <p> + “Nothing about you,” I answered, “because he did not even want to speak + with me when he found out that I was staying in your house. What is the + trouble between you?” I asked of them, expressing complete astonishment on + my face. + </p> + <p> + “It is an old score,” growled Gorokoff. + </p> + <p> + “A malicious old churl,” Kanine added in agreement, the while the + frightened, suffering-laden eyes of his wife again gave expression to + terrifying horror, as if she momentarily expected a deadly blow. Gorokoff + began to pack his luggage in preparation for the journey with us the + following morning. We prepared our simple beds in an adjoining room and + went to sleep. I whispered to my friend to keep his revolver handy for + anything that might happen but he only smiled as he dragged his revolver + and his ax from his coat to place them under his pillow. + </p> + <p> + “This people at the outset seemed to me very suspicious,” he whispered. + “They are cooking up something crooked. Tomorrow I shall ride behind this + Gorokoff and shall prepare for him a very faithful one of my bullets, a + little dum-dum.” + </p> + <p> + The Mongols spent the night under their tent in the open court beside + their camels, because they wanted to be near to feed them. About seven + o’clock we started. My friend took up his post as rear guard to our + caravan, keeping all the time behind Gorokoff, who with his sister, both + armed from tip to toe, rode splendid mounts. + </p> + <p> + “How have you kept your horses in such fine condition coming all the way + from Samgaltai?” I inquired as I looked over their fine beasts. + </p> + <p> + When he answered that these belonged to his host, I realized that Kanine + was not so poor as he made out; for any rich Mongol would have given him + in exchange for one of these lovely animals enough sheep to have kept his + household in mutton for a whole year. + </p> + <p> + Soon we came to a large swamp surrounded by dense brush, where I was much + astonished by seeing literally hundreds of white kuropatka or partridges. + Out of the water rose a flock of duck with a mad rush as we hove in sight. + Winter, cold driving wind, snow and wild ducks! The Mongol explained it to + me thus: + </p> + <p> + “This swamp always remains warm and never freezes. The wild ducks live + here the year round and the kuropatka too, finding fresh food in the soft + warm earth.” + </p> + <p> + As I was speaking with the Mongol I noticed over the swamp a tongue of + reddish-yellow flame. It flashed and disappeared at once but later, on the + farther edge, two further tongues ran upward. I realized that here was the + real will-o’-the-wisp surrounded by so many thousands of legends and + explained so simply by chemistry as merely a flash of methane or swamp gas + generated by the putrefying of vegetable matter in the warm damp earth. + </p> + <p> + “Here dwell the demons of Adair, who are in perpetual war with those of + Muren,” explained the Mongol. + </p> + <p> + “Indeed,” I thought, “if in prosaic Europe in our days the inhabitants of + our villages believe these flames to be some wild sorcery, then surely in + the land of mystery they must be at least the evidences of war between the + demons of two neighboring rivers!” + </p> + <p> + After passing this swamp we made out far ahead of us a large monastery. + Though this was some half mile off the road, the Gorokoffs said they would + ride over to it to make some purchases in the Chinese shops there. They + quickly rode away, promising to overtake us shortly, but we did not see + them again for a while. They slipped away without leaving any trail but we + met them later in very unexpected circumstances of fatal portent for them. + On our part we were highly satisfied that we were rid of them so soon and, + after they were gone, I imparted to my friend the information gleaned from + Bobroff the evening before. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0023" id="link2HCH0023"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXIII + </h2> + <h3> + ON A VOLCANO + </h3> + <p> + The following evening we arrived at Khathyl, a small Russian settlement of + ten scattered houses in the valley of the Egingol or Yaga, which here + takes its waters from the Kosogol half a mile above the village. The + Kosogol is a huge Alpine lake, deep and cold, eighty-five miles in length + and from ten to thirty in width. On the western shore live the Darkhat + Soyots, who call it Hubsugul, the Mongols, Kosogol. Both the Soyots and + Mongols consider this a terrible and sacred lake. It is very easy to + understand this prejudice because the lake lies in a region of present + volcanic activity, where in the summer on perfectly calm sunny days it + sometimes lashes itself into great waves that are dangerous not only to + the native fishing boats but also to the large Russian passenger steamers + that ply on the lake. In winter also it sometimes entirely breaks up its + covering of ice and gives off great clouds of steam. Evidently the bottom + of the lake is sporadically pierced by discharging hot springs or, + perhaps, by streams of lava. Evidence of some great underground convulsion + like this is afforded by the mass of killed fish which at times dams the + outlet river in its shallow places. The lake is exceedingly rich in fish, + chiefly varieties of trout and salmon, and is famous for its wonderful + “white fish,” which was previously sent all over Siberia and even down + into Manchuria so far as Moukden. It is fat and remarkably tender and + produces fine caviar. Another variety in the lake is the white khayrus or + trout, which in the migration season, contrary to the customs of most + fish, goes down stream into the Yaga, where it sometimes fills the river + from bank to bank with swarms of backs breaking the surface of the water. + However, this fish is not caught, because it is infested with worms and is + unfit for food. Even cats and dogs will not touch it. This is a very + interesting phemonenon and was being investigated and studied by Professor + Dorogostaisky of the University at Irkutsk when the coming of the + Bolsheviki interrupted his work. + </p> + <p> + In Khathyl we found a panic. The Russian detachment of Colonel Kazagrandi, + after having twice defeated the Bolsheviki and well on its march against + Irkutsk, was suddenly rendered impotent and scattered through internal + strife among the officers. The Bolsheviki took advantage of this + situation, increased their forces to one thousand men and began a forward + movement to recover what they had lost, while the remnants of Colonel + Kazagrandi’s detachment were retreating on Khathyl, where he determined to + make his last stand against the Reds. The inhabitants were loading their + movable property with their families into carts and scurrying away from + the town, leaving all their cattle and horses to whomsoever should have + the power to seize and hold them. One party intended to hide in the dense + larch forest and the mountain ravines not far away, while another party + made southward for Muren Kure and Uliassutai. The morning following our + arrival the Mongol official received word that the Red troops had + outflanked Colonel Kazagrandi’s men and were approaching Khathyl. The + Mongol loaded his documents and his servants on eleven camels and left his + yamen. Our Mongol guides, without ever saying a word to us, secretly + slipped off with him and left us without camels. Our situation thus became + desperate. We hastened to the colonists who had not yet got away to + bargain with them for camels, but they had previously, in anticipation of + trouble, sent their herds to distant Mongols and so could do nothing to + help us. Then we betook ourselves to Dr. V. G. Gay, a veterinarian living + in the town, famous throughout Mongolia for his battle against rinderpest. + He lived here with his family and after being forced to give up his + government work became a cattle dealer. He was a most interesting person, + clever and energetic, and the one who had been appointed under the Czarist + regime to purchase all the meat supplies from Mongolia for the Russian + Army on the German Front. He organized a huge enterprise in Mongolia but + when the Bolsheviki seized power in 1917 he transferred his allegiance and + began to work with them. Then in May, 1918, when the Kolchak forces drove + the Bolsheviki out of Siberia, he was arrested and taken for trial. + However, he was released because he was looked upon as the single + individual to organize this big Mongolian enterprise and he handed to + Admiral Kolchak all the supplies of meat and the silver formerly received + from the Soviet commissars. At this time Gay had been serving as the chief + organizer and supplier of the forces of Kazagrandi. + </p> + <p> + When we went to him, he at once suggested that we take the only thing + left, some poor, broken-down horses which would be able to carry us the + sixty miles to Muren Kure, where we could secure camels to return to + Uliassutai. However, even these were being kept some distance from the + town so that we should have to spend the night there, the night in which + the Red troops were expected to arrive. Also we were much astonished to + see that Gay was remaining there with his family right up to the time of + the expected arrival of the Reds. The only others in the town were a few + Cossacks, who had been ordered to stay behind to watch the movements of + the Red troops. The night came. My friend and I were prepared either to + fight or, in the last event, to commit suicide. We stayed in a small house + near the Yaga, where some workmen were living who could not, and did not + feel it necessary to, leave. They went up on a hill from which they could + scan the whole country up to the range from behind which the Red + detachment must appear. From this vantage point in the forest one of the + workmen came running in and cried out: + </p> + <p> + “Woe, woe to us! The Reds have arrived. A horseman is galloping fast + through the forest road. I called to him but he did not answer me. It was + dark but I knew the horse was a strange one.” + </p> + <p> + “Do not babble so,” said another of the workmen. “Some Mongol rode by and + you jumped to the conclusion that he was a Red.” + </p> + <p> + “No, it was not a Mongol,” he replied. “The horse was shod. I heard the + sound of iron shoes on the road. Woe to us!” + </p> + <p> + “Well,” said my friend, “it seems that this is our finish. It is a silly + way for it all to end.” + </p> + <p> + He was right. Just then there was a knock at our door but it was that of + the Mongol bringing us three horses for our escape. Immediately we saddled + them, packed the third beast with our tent and food and rode off at once + to take leave of Gay. + </p> + <p> + In his house we found the whole war council. Two or three colonists and + several Cossacks had galloped from the mountains and announced that the + Red detachment was approaching Khathyl but would remain for the night in + the forest, where they were building campfires. In fact, through the house + windows we could see the glare of the fires. It seemed very strange that + the enemy should await the morning there in the forest when they were + right on the village they wished to capture. + </p> + <p> + An armed Cossack entered the room and announced that two armed men from + the detachment were approaching. All the men in the room pricked up their + ears. Outside were heard the horses’ hoofs followed by men’s voices and a + knock at the door. + </p> + <p> + “Come in,” said Gay. + </p> + <p> + Two young men entered, their moustaches and beards white and their cheeks + blazing red from the cold. They were dressed in the common Siberian + overcoat with the big Astrakhan caps, but they had no weapons. Questions + began. It developed that it was a detachment of White peasants from the + Irkutsk and Yakutsk districts who had been fighting with the Bolsheviki. + They had been defeated somewhere in the vicinity of Irkutsk and were now + trying to make a junction with Kazagrandi. The leader of this band was a + socialist, Captain Vassilieff, who had suffered much under the Czar + because of his tenets. + </p> + <p> + Our troubles had vanished but we decided to start immediately to Muren + Kure, as we had gathered our information and were in a hurry to make our + report. We started. On the road we overtook three Cossacks who were going + out to bring back the colonists who were fleeing to the south. We joined + them and, dismounting, we all led our horses over the ice. The Yaga was + mad. The subterranean forces produced underneath the ice great heaving + waves which with a swirling roar threw up and tore loose great sections of + ice, breaking them into small blocks and sucking them under the unbroken + downstream field. Cracks ran like snakes over the surface in different + directions. One of the Cossacks fell into one of these but we had just + time to save him. He was forced by his ducking in such extreme cold to + turn back to Khathyl. Our horses slipped about and fell several times. Men + and animals felt the presence of death which hovered over them and + momentarily threatened them with destruction. At last we made the farther + bank and continued southward down the valley, glad to have left the + geological and figurative volcanoes behind us. Ten miles farther on we + came up with the first party of refugees. They had spread a big tent and + made a fire inside, filling it with warmth and smoke. Their camp was made + beside the establishment of a large Chinese trading house, where the + owners refused to let the colonists come into their amply spacious + buildings, even though there were children, women and invalids among the + refugees. We spent but half an hour here. The road as we continued was + easy, save in places where the snow lay deep. We crossed the fairly high + divide between the Egingol and Muren. Near the pass one very unexpected + event occurred to us. We crossed the mouth of a fairly wide valley whose + upper end was covered with a dense wood. Near this wood we noticed two + horsemen, evidently watching us. Their manner of sitting in their saddles + and the character of their horses told us that they were not Mongols. We + began shouting and waving to them; but they did not answer. Out of the + wood emerged a third and stopped to look at us. We decided to interview + them and, whipping up our horses, galloped toward them. When we were about + one thousand yards from them, they slipped from their saddles and opened + on us with a running fire. Fortunately we rode a little apart and thus + made a poor target for them. We jumped off our horses, dropped prone on + the ground and prepared to fight. However, we did not fire because we + thought it might be a mistake on their part, thinking that we were Reds. + They shortly made off. Their shots from the European rifles had given us + further proof that they were not Mongols. We waited until they had + disappeared into the woods and then went forward to investigate their + tracks, which we found were those of shod horses, clearly corroborating + the earlier evidence that they were not Mongols. Who could they have been? + We never found out; yet what a different relationship they might have + borne to our lives, had their shots been true! + </p> + <p> + After we had passed over the divide, we met the Russian colonist D. A. + Teternikoff from Muren Kure, who invited us to stay in his house and + promised to secure camels for us from the Lamas. The cold was intense and + heightened by a piercing wind. During the day we froze to the bone but at + night thawed and warmed up nicely by our tent stove. After two days we + entered the valley of Muren and from afar made out the square of the Kure + with its Chinese roofs and large red temples. Nearby was a second square, + the Chinese and Russian settlement. Two hours more brought us to the house + of our hospitable companion and his attractive young wife who feasted us + with a wonderful luncheon of tasty dishes. We spent five days at Muren + waiting for the camels to be engaged. During this time many refugees + arrived from Khathyl because Colonel Kazagrandi was gradually falling back + upon the town. Among others there were two Colonels, Plavako and + Maklakoff, who had caused the disruption of the Kazagrandi force. No + sooner had the refugees appeared in Muren Kure than the Mongolian + officials announced that the Chinese authorities had ordered them to drive + out all Russian refugees. + </p> + <p> + “Where can we go now in winter with women and children and no homes of our + own?” asked the distraught refugees. + </p> + <p> + “That is of no moment to us,” answered the Mongolian officials. “The + Chinese authorities are angry and have ordered us to drive you away. We + cannot help you at all.” + </p> + <p> + The refugees had to leave Muren Kure and so erected their tents in the + open not far away. Plavako and Maklakoff bought horses and started out for + Van Kure. Long afterwards I learned that both had been killed by the + Chinese along the road. + </p> + <p> + We secured three camels and started out with a large group of Chinese + merchants and Russian refugees to make Uliassutai, preserving the warmest + recollections of our courteous hosts, T. V. and D. A. Teternikoff. For the + trip we had to pay for our camels the very high price of 33 lan of the + silver bullion which had been supplied us by an American firm in + Uliassutai, the equivalent roughly of 2.7 pounds of the white metal. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0024" id="link2HCH0024"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXIV + </h2> + <h3> + A BLOODY CHASTISEMENT + </h3> + <p> + Before long we struck the road which we had travelled coming north and saw + again the kindly rows of chopped down telegraph poles which had once so + warmly protected us. Over the timbered hillocks north of the valley of + Tisingol we wended just as it was growing dark. We decided to stay in + Bobroff’s house and our companions thought to seek the hospitality of + Kanine in the telegraph station. At the station gate we found a soldier + with a rifle, who questioned us as to who we were and whence we had come + and, being apparently satisfied, whistled out a young officer from the + house. + </p> + <p> + “Lieutenant Ivanoff,” he introduced himself. “I am staying here with my + detachment of White Partisans.” + </p> + <p> + He had come from near Irkutsk with his following of ten men and had formed + a connection with Lieutenant-Colonel Michailoff at Uliassutai, who + commanded him to take possession of this blockhouse. + </p> + <p> + “Enter, please,” he said hospitably. + </p> + <p> + I explained to him that I wanted to stay with Bobroff, whereat he made a + despairing gesture with his hand and said: + </p> + <p> + “Don’t trouble yourself. The Bobroffs are killed and their house burned.” + </p> + <p> + I could not keep back a cry of horror. + </p> + <p> + The Lieutenant continued: “Kanine and the Pouzikoffs killed them, pillaged + the place and afterwards burned the house with their dead bodies in it. Do + you want to see it?” + </p> + <p> + My friend and I went with the Lieutenant and looked over the ominous site. + Blackened uprights stood among charred beams and planks while crockery and + iron pots and pans were scattered all around. A little to one side under + some felt lay the remains of the four unfortunate individuals. The + Lieutenant first spoke: + </p> + <p> + “I reported the case to Uliassutai and received word back that the + relatives of the deceased would come with two officers, who would + investigate the affair. That is why I cannot bury the bodies.” + </p> + <p> + “How did it happen?” we asked, oppressed by the sad picture. + </p> + <p> + “It was like this,” he began. “I was approaching Tisingol at night with my + ten soldiers. Fearing that there might be Reds here, we sneaked up to the + station and looked into the windows. We saw Pouzikoff, Kanine and the + short-haired girl, looking over and dividing clothes and other things and + weighing lumps of silver. I did not at once grasp the significance of all + this; but, feeling the need for continued caution, ordered one of my + soldiers to climb the fence and open the gate. We rushed into the court. + The first to run from the house was Kanine’s wife, who threw up her hands + and shrieked in fear: ‘I knew that misfortune would come of all this!’ and + then fainted. One of the men ran out of a side door to a shed in the yard + and there tried to get over the fence. I had not noticed him but one of my + soldiers caught him. We were met at the door by Kanine, who was white and + trembling. I realized that something important had taken place, placed + them all under arrest, ordered the men tied and placed a close guard. All + my questions were met with silence save by Madame Kanine who cried: ‘Pity, + pity for the children! They are innocent!’ as she dropped on her knees and + stretched out her hands in supplication to us. The short-haired girl + laughed out of impudent eyes and blew a puff of smoke into my face. I was + forced to threaten them and said: + </p> + <p> + “‘I know that you have committed some crime, but you do not want to + confess. If you do not, I shall shoot the men and take the women to + Uliassutai to try them there.’ + </p> + <p> + “I spoke with definiteness of voice and intention, for they roused my + deepest anger. Quite to my surprise the short-haired girl first began to + speak. + </p> + <p> + “‘I want to tell you about everything,’ she said. + </p> + <p> + “I ordered ink, paper and pen brought me. My soldiers were the witnesses. + Then I prepared the protocol of the confession of Pouzikoff’s wife. This + was her dark and bloody tale. + </p> + <p> + “‘My husband and I are Bolshevik commissars and we have been sent to find + out how many White officers are hidden in Mongolia. But the old fellow + Bobroff knew us. We wanted to go away but Kanine kept us, telling us that + Bobroff was rich and that he had for a long time wanted to kill him and + pillage his place. We agreed to join him. We decoyed the young Bobroff to + come and play cards with us. When he was going home my husband stole along + behind and shot him. Afterwards we all went to Bobroff’s place. I climbed + upon the fence and threw some poisoned meat to the dogs, who were dead in + a few minutes. Then we all climbed over. The first person to emerge from + the house was Bobroff’s wife. Pouzikoff, who was hidden behind the door, + killed her with his ax. The old fellow we killed with a blow of the ax as + he slept. The little girl ran out into the room as she heard the noise and + Kanine shot her in the head with buckshot. Afterwards we looted the house + and burned it, even destroying the horses and cattle. Later all would have + been completely burned, so that no traces remained, but you suddenly + arrived and these stupid fellows at once betrayed us.’ + </p> + <p> + “It was a dastardly affair,” continued the Lieutenant, as we returned to + the station. “The hair raised on my head as I listened to the calm + description of this young woman, hardly more than a girl. Only then did I + fully realize what depravity Bolshevism had brought into the world, + crushing out faith, fear of God and conscience. Only then did I understand + that all honest people must fight without compromise against this most + dangerous enemy of mankind, so long as life and strength endure.” + </p> + <p> + As we walked I noticed at the side of the road a black spot. It attracted + and fixed my attention. + </p> + <p> + “What is that?” I asked, pointing to the spot. + </p> + <p> + “It is the murderer Pouzikoff whom I shot,” answered the Lieutenant. “I + would have shot both Kanine and the wife of Pouzikoff but I was sorry for + Kanine’s wife and children and I haven’t learned the lesson of shooting + women. Now I shall send them along with you under the surveillance of my + soldiers to Uliassutai. The same result will come, for the Mongols who try + them for the murder will surely kill them.” + </p> + <p> + This is what happened at Tisingol, on whose shores the will-o’-the-wisp + flits over the marshy pools and near which runs the cleavage of over two + hundred miles that the last earthquake left in the surface of the land. + Maybe it was out of this cleavage that Pouzikoff, Kanine and the others + who have sought to infect the whole world with horror and crime made their + appearance from the land of the inferno. One of Lieutenant Ivanoff’s + soldiers, who was always praying and pale, called them all “the servants + of Satan.” + </p> + <p> + Our trip from Tisingol to Uliassutai in the company of these criminals was + very unpleasant. My friend and I entirely lost our usual strength of + spirit and healthy frame of mind. Kanine persistently brooded and thought + while the impudent woman laughed, smoked and joked with the soldiers and + several of our companions. At last we crossed the Jagisstai and in a few + hours descried at first the fortress and then the low adobe houses huddled + on the plain, which we knew to be Uliassutai. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0025" id="link2HCH0025"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXV + </h2> + <h3> + HARASSING DAYS + </h3> + <p> + Once more we found ourselves in the whirl of events. During our fortnight + away a great deal had happened here. The Chinese Commissioner Wang + Tsao-tsun had sent eleven envoys to Urga but none had returned. The + situation in Mongolia remained far from clear. The Russian detachment had + been increased by the arrival of new colonists and secretly continued its + illegal existence, although the Chinese knew about it through their + omnipresent system of spies. In the town no Russian or foreign citizens + left their houses and all remained armed and ready to act. At night armed + sentinels stood guard in all their court-yards. It was the Chinese who + induced such precautions. By order of their Commissioner all the Chinese + merchants with stocks of rifles armed their staffs and handed over any + surplus guns to the officials, who with these formed and equipped a force + of two hundred coolies into a special garrison of gamins. Then they took + possession of the Mongolian arsenal and distributed these additional guns + among the Chinese vegetable farmers in the nagan hushun, where there was + always a floating population of the lowest grade of transient Chinese + laborers. This trash of China now felt themselves strong, gathered + together in excited discussions and evidently were preparing for some + outburst of aggression. At night the coolies transported many boxes of + cartridges from the Chinese shops to the nagan hushun and the behaviour of + the Chinese mob became unbearably audacious. These coolies and gamins + impertinently stopped and searched people right on the streets and sought + to provoke fights that would allow them to take anything they wanted. + Through secret news we received from certain Chinese quarters we learned + that the Chinese were preparing a pogrom for all the Russians and Mongols + in Uliassutai. We fully realized that it was only necessary to fire one + single house at the right part of the town and the entire settlement of + wooden buildings would go up in flames. The whole population prepared to + defend themselves, increased the sentinels in the compounds, appointed + leaders for certain sections of the town, organized a special fire brigade + and prepared horses, carts and food for a hasty flight. The situation + became worse when news arrived from Kobdo that the Chinese there had made + a pogrom, killing some of the inhabitants and burning the whole town after + a wild looting orgy. Most of the people got away to the forests on the + mountains but it was at night and consequently without warm clothes and + without food. During the following days these mountains around Kobdo heard + many cries of misfortune, woe and death. The severe cold and hunger killed + off the women and children out under the open sky of the Mongolian winter. + This news was soon known to the Chinese. They laughed in mockery and soon + organized a big meeting at the nagan hushun to discuss letting the mob and + gamins loose on the town. + </p> + <p> + A young Chinese, the son of a cook of one of the colonists, revealed this + news. We immediately decided to make an investigation. A Russian officer + and my friend joined me with this young Chinese as a guide for a trip to + the outskirts of the town. We feigned simply a stroll but were stopped by + the Chinese sentinel on the side of the city toward the nagan hushun with + an impertinent command that no one was allowed to leave the town. As we + spoke with him, I noticed that between the town and the nagan hushun + Chinese guards were stationed all along the way and that streams of + Chinese were moving in that direction. We saw at once it was impossible to + reach the meeting from this approach, so we chose another route. We left + the city from the eastern side and passed along by the camp of the + Mongolians who had been reduced to beggary by the Chinese impositions. + There also they were evidently anxiously awaiting the turn of events, for, + in spite of the lateness of the hour, none had gone to sleep. We slipped + out on the ice and worked around by the river to the nagan hushun. As we + passed free of the city we began to sneak cautiously along, taking + advantage of every bit of cover. We were armed with revolvers and hand + grenades and knew that a small detachment had been prepared in the town to + come to our aid, if we should be in danger. First the young Chinese stole + forward with my friend following him like a shadow, constantly reminding + him that he would strangle him like a mouse if he made one move to betray + us. I fear the young guide did not greatly enjoy the trip with my gigantic + friend puffing all too loudly with the unusual exertions. At last the + fences of nagan hushun were in sight and nothing between us and them save + the open plain, where our group would have been easily spotted; so that we + decided to crawl up one by one, save that the Chinese was retained in the + society of my trusted friend. Fortunately there were many heaps of frozen + manure on the plain, which we made use of as cover to lead us right up to + our objective point, the fence of the enclosures. In the shadow of this we + slunk along to the courtyard where the voices of the excited crowd + beckoned us. As we took good vantage points in the darkness for listening + and making observations, we remarked two extraordinary things in our + immediate neighborhood. + </p> + <p> + Another invisible guest was present with us at the Chinese gathering. He + lay on the ground with his head in a hole dug by the dogs under the fence. + He was perfectly still and evidently had not heard our advance. Nearby in + a ditch lay a white horse with his nose muzzled and a little further away + stood another saddled horse tied to a fence. + </p> + <p> + In the courtyard there was a great hubbub. About two thousand men were + shouting, arguing and flourishing their arms about in wild gesticulations. + Nearly all were armed with rifles, revolvers, swords and axes. In among + the crowd circulated the gamins, constantly talking, handing out papers, + explaining and assuring. Finally a big, broad-shouldered Chinese mounted + the well combing, waved his rifle about over his head and opened a tirade + in strong, sharp tones. + </p> + <p> + “He is assuring the people,” said our interpreter, “that they must do here + what the Chinese have done in Kobdo and must secure from the Commissioner + the assurance of an order to his guard not to prevent the carrying out of + their plans. Also that the Chinese Commissioner must demand from the + Russians all their weapons. ‘Then we shall take vengeance on the Russians + for their Blagoveschensk crime when they drowned three thousand Chinese in + 1900. You remain here while I go to the Commissioner and talk with him.’” + </p> + <p> + He jumped down from the well and quickly made his way to the gate toward + the town. At once I saw the man who was lying with his head under the + fence draw back out of his hole, take his white horse from the ditch and + then run over to untie the other horse and lead them both back to our + side, which was away from the city. He left the second horse there and hid + himself around the corner of the hushun. The spokesman went out of the + gate and, seeing his horse over on the other side of the enclosure, slung + his rifle across his back and started for his mount. He had gone about + half way when the stranger behind the corner of the fence suddenly + galloped out and in a flash literally swung the man clear from the ground + up across the pommel of his saddle, where we saw him tie the mouth of the + semi-strangled Chinese with a cloth and dash off with him toward the west + away from the town. + </p> + <p> + “Who do you suppose he is?” I asked of my friend, who answered up at once: + “It must be Tushegoun Lama. . . .” + </p> + <p> + His whole appearance did strongly remind me of this mysterious Lama + avenger and his manner of addressing himself to his enemy was a strict + replica of that of Tushegoun. Late in the night we learned that some time + after their orator had gone to seek the Commissioner’s cooperation in + their venture, his head had been flung over the fence into the midst of + the waiting audience and that eight gamins had disappeared on their way + from the hushun to the town without leaving trace or trail. This event + terrorized the Chinese mob and calmed their heated spirits. + </p> + <p> + The next day we received very unexpected aid. A young Mongol galloped in + from Urga, his overcoat torn, his hair all dishevelled and fallen to his + shoulders and a revolver prominent beneath his girdle. Proceeding directly + to the market where the Mongols are always gathered, without leaving his + saddle he cried out: + </p> + <p> + “Urga is captured by our Mongols and Chiang Chun Baron Ungern! Bogdo + Hutuktu is once more our Khan! Mongols, kill the Chinese and pillage their + shops! Our patience is exhausted!” + </p> + <p> + Through the crowd rose the roar of excitement. The rider was surrounded + with a mob of insistent questioners. The old Mongol Sait, Chultun Beyli, + who had been dismissed by the Chinese, was at once informed of this news + and asked to have the messenger brought to him. After questioning the man + he arrested him for inciting the people to riot, but he refused to turn + him over to the Chinese authorities. I was personally with the Sait at the + time and heard his decision in the matter. When the Chinese Commissioner, + Wang Tsao-tsun, threatened the Sait for disobedience to his authority, the + old man simply fingered his rosary and said: + </p> + <p> + “I believe the story of this Mongol in its every word and I apprehend that + you and I shall soon have to reverse our relationship.” + </p> + <p> + I felt that Wang Tsao-tsun also accepted the correctness of the Mongol’s + story, because he did not insist further. From this moment the Chinese + disappeared from the streets of Uliassutai as though they never had been, + and synchronously the patrols of the Russian officers and of our foreign + colony took their places. The panic among the Chinese was heightened by + the receipt of a letter containing the news that the Mongols and Altai + Tartars under the leadership of the Tartar officer Kaigorodoff pursued the + Chinese who were making off with their booty from the sack of Kobdo and + overtook and annihilated them on the borders of Sinkiang. Another part of + the letter told how General Bakitch and the six thousand men who had been + interned with him by the Chinese authorities on the River Amyl had + received arms and started to join with Ataman Annenkoff, who had been + interned in Kuldja, with the ultimate intention of linking up with Baron + Ungern. This rumour proved to be wrong because neither Bakitch nor + Annenkoff entertained this intention, because Annenkoff had been + transported by the Chinese into the Depths of Turkestan. However, the news + produced veritable stupefaction among the Chinese. + </p> + <p> + Just at this time there arrived at the house of the Bolshevist Russian + colonist Bourdukoff three Bolshevik agents from Irkutsk named Saltikoff, + Freimann and Novak, who started an agitation among the Chinese authorities + to get them to disarm the Russian officers and hand them over to the Reds. + They persuaded the Chinese Chamber of Commerce to petition the Irkutsk + Soviet to send a detachment of Reds to Uliassutai for the protection of + the Chinese against the White detachments. Freimann brought with him + communistic pamphlets in Mongolian and instructions to begin the + reconstruction of the telegraph line to Irkutsk. Bourdukoff also received + some messages from the Bolsheviki. This quartette developed their policy + very successfully and soon saw Wang Tsao-tsun fall in with their schemes. + Once more the days of expecting a pogrom in Uliassutai returned to us. The + Russian officers anticipated attempts to arrest them. The representative + of one of the American firms went with me to the Commissioner for a + parley. We pointed out to him the illegality of his acts, inasmuch as he + was not authorized by his Government to treat with the Bolsheviki when the + Soviet Government had not been recognized by Peking. Wang Tsao-tsun and + his advisor Fu Hsiang were palpably confused at finding we knew of his + secret meetings with the Bolshevik agents. He assured us that his guard + was sufficient to prevent any such pogrom. It was quite true that his + guard was very capable, as it consisted of well trained and disciplined + soldiers under the command of a serious-minded and well educated officer; + but, what could eighty soldiers do against a mob of three thousand + coolies, one thousand armed merchants and two hundred gamins? We strongly + registered our apprehensions and urged him to avoid any bloodshed, + pointing out that the foreign and Russian population were determined to + defend themselves to the last moment. Wang at once ordered the + establishment of strong guards on the streets and thus made a very + interesting picture with all the Russian, foreign and Chinese patrols + moving up and down throughout the whole town. Then we did not know there + were three hundred more sentinels on duty, the men of Tushegoun Lama + hidden nearby in the mountains. + </p> + <p> + Once more the picture changed very sharply and suddenly. The Mongolian + Sait received news through the Lamas of the nearest monastery that Colonel + Kazagrandi, after fighting with the Chinese irregulars, had captured Van + Kure and had formed there Russian-Mongolian brigades of cavalry, + mobilizing the Mongols by the order of the Living Buddha and the Russians + by order of Baron Ungern. A few hours later it became known that in the + large monastery of Dzain the Chinese soldiers had killed the Russian + Captain Barsky and as a result some of the troops of Kazagrandi attacked + and swept the Chinese out of the place. At the taking of Van Kure the + Russians arrested a Korean Communist who was on his way from Moscow with + gold and propaganda to work in Korea and America. Colonel Kazagrandi sent + this Korean with his freight of gold to Baron Ungern. After receiving this + news the chief of the Russian detachment in Uliassutai arrested all the + Bolsheviki agents and passed judgment upon them and upon the murderers of + the Bobroffs. Kanine, Madame Pouzikoff and Freimann were shot. Regarding + Saltikoff and Novak some doubt sprang up and, moreover, Saltikoff escaped + and hid, while Novak, under advice from Lieutenant Colonel Michailoff, + left for the west. The chief of the Russian detachment gave out orders for + the mobilization of the Russian colonists and openly took Uliassutai under + his protection with the tacit agreement of the Mongolian authorities. The + Mongol Sait, Chultun Beyli, convened a council of the neighboring + Mongolian Princes, the soul of which was the noted Mongolian patriot, Hun + Jap Lama. The Princes quickly formulated their demands upon the Chinese + for the complete evacuation of the territory subject to the Sait Chultun + Beyli. Out of it grew parleys, threats and friction between the various + Chinese and Mongolian elements. Wang Tsao-tsun proposed his scheme of + settlement, which some of the Mongolian Princes accepted; but Jap Lama at + the decisive moment threw the Chinese document to the ground, drew his + knife and swore that he would die by his own hand rather than set it as a + seal upon this treacherous agreement. As a result the Chinese proposals + were rejected and the antagonists began to prepare themselves for the + struggle. All the armed Mongols were summoned from Jassaktu Khan, + Sain-Noion Khan and the dominion of Jahantsi Lama. The Chinese authorities + placed their four machine guns and prepared to defend the fortress. + Continuous deliberations were held by both the Chinese and Mongols. + Finally, our old acquaintance Tzeren came to me as one of the unconcerned + foreigners and handed to me the joint requests of Wang Tsao-tsun and + Chultun Beyli to try to pacify the two elements and to work out a fair + agreement between them. Similar requests were handed to the representative + of an American firm. The following evening we held the first meeting of + the arbitrators and the Chinese and Mongolian representatives. It was + passionate and stormy, so that we foreigners lost all hope of the success + of our mission. However, at midnight when the speakers were tired, we + secured agreement on two points: the Mongols announced that they did not + want to make war and that they desired to settle this matter in such a way + as to retain the friendship of the great Chinese people; while the Chinese + Commissioner acknowledged that China had violated the treaties by which + full independence had been legally granted to Mongolia. + </p> + <p> + These two points formed for us the groundwork of the next meeting and gave + us the starting points for urging reconciliation. The deliberations + continued for three days and finally turned so that we foreigners could + propose our suggestions for an agreement. Its chief provisions were that + the Chinese authorities should surrender administrative powers, return the + arms to the Mongolians, disarm the two hundred gamins and leave the + country; and that the Mongols on their side should give free and honorable + passage of their country to the Commissioner with his armed guard of + eighty men. This Chinese-Mongolian Treaty of Uliassutai was signed and + sealed by the Chinese Commissioners, Wang Tsao-tsun and Fu Hsiang, by both + Mongolian Saits, by Hun Jap Lama and other Princes, as well as by the + Russian and Chinese Presidents of the Chambers of Commerce and by us + foreign arbitrators. The Chinese officials and convoy began at once to + pack up their belongings and prepare for departure. The Chinese merchants + remained in Uliassutai because Sait Chultun Beyli, now having full + authority and power, guaranteed their safety. The day of departure for the + expedition of Wang Tsao-tsun arrived. The camels with their packs already + filled the yamen court-yard and the men only awaited the arrival of their + horses from the plains. Suddenly the news spread everywhere that the herd + of horses had been stolen during the night and run off toward the south. + Of two soldiers that had been sent out to follow the tracks of the herd + only one came back with the news that the other had been killed. + Astonishment spread over the whole town while among the Chinese it turned + to open panic. It perceptibly increased when some Mongols from a distant + ourton to the east came in and announced that in various places along the + post road to Urga they had discovered the bodies of sixteen of the + soldiers whom Wang Tsao-tsun had sent out with letters for Urga. The + mystery of these events will soon be explained. + </p> + <p> + The chief of the Russian detachment received a letter from a Cossack + Colonel, V. N. Domojiroff, containing the order to disarm immediately the + Chinese garrison, to arrest all Chinese officials for transport to Baron + Ungern at Urga, to take control of Uliassutai, by force if necessary, and + to join forces with his detachment. At the very same time a messenger from + the Narabanchi Hutuktu galloped in with a letter to the effect that a + Russian detachment under the leadership of Hun Boldon and Colonel + Domojiroff from Urga had pillaged some Chinese firms and killed the + merchants, had come to the Monastery and demanded horses, food and + shelter. The Hutuktu asked for help because the ferocious conqueror of + Kobdo, Hun Boldon, could very easily pillage the unprotected isolated + monastery. We strongly urged Colonel Michailoff not to violate the sealed + treaty and discountenance all the foreigners and Russians who had taken + part in making it, for this would but be to imitate the Bolshevik + principle of making deceit the leading rule in all acts of state. This + touched Michailoff and he answered Domojiroff that Uliassutai was already + in his hands without a fight; that over the building of the former Russian + Consulate the tri-color flag of Russia was flying; the gamins had been + disarmed but that the other orders could not be carried out, because their + execution would violate the Chinese-Mongolian treaty just signed in + Uliassutai. + </p> + <p> + Daily several envoys traveled from Narabanchi Hutuktu to Uliassutai. The + news became more and more disquieting. The Hutuktu reported that Hun + Boldon was mobilizing the Mongolian beggars and horse stealers, arming and + training them; that the soldiers were taking the sheep of the monastery; + that the “Noyon” Domojiroff was always drunk; and that the protests of the + Hutuktu were answered with jeers and scolding. The messengers gave very + indefinite information regarding the strength of the detachment, some + placing it at about thirty while others stated that Domojiroff said he had + eight hundred in all. We could not understand it at all and soon the + messengers ceased coming. All the letters of the Sait remained unanswered + and the envoys did not return. There seemed to be no doubt that the men + had been killed or captured. + </p> + <p> + Prince Chultun Beyli determined to go himself. He took with him the + Russian and Chinese Presidents of the Chambers of Commerce and two + Mongolian officers. Three days elapsed without receiving any news from him + whatever. The Mongols began to get worried. Then the Chinese Commissioner + and Hun Jap Lama addressed a request to the foreigner group to send some + one to Narabanchi, in order to try to resolve the controversy there and to + persuade Domojiroff to recognize the treaty and not permit the “great + insult of violation” of a covenant between the two great peoples. Our + group asked me once more to accomplish this mission pro bono publico. I + had assigned me as interpreter a fine young Russian colonist, the nephew + of the murdered Bobroff, a splendid rider as well as a cool, brave man. + Lt.-Colonel Michailoff gave me one of his officers to accompany me. + Supplied with an express tzara for the post horses and guides, we traveled + rapidly over the way which was now familiar to me to find my old friend, + Jelib Djamsrap Huktuktu of Narabanchi. Although there was deep snow in + some places, we made from one hundred to one hundred and fifteen miles per + day. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0026" id="link2HCH0026"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXVI + </h2> + <h3> + THE BAND OF WHITE HUNGHUTZES + </h3> + <p> + We arrived at Narabanchi late at night on the third day out. As we were + approaching, we noticed several riders who, as soon as they had seen us, + galloped quickly back to the monastery. For some time we looked for the + camp of the Russian detachment without finding it. The Mongols led us into + the monastery, where the Hutuktu immediately received me. In his yurta sat + Chultun Beyli. There he presented me with hatyks and said to me: “The very + God has sent you here to us in this difficult moment.” + </p> + <p> + It seems Domojiroff had arrested both the Presidents of the Chambers of + Commerce and had threatened to shoot Prince Chultun. Both Domojiroff and + Hun Boldon had no documents legalizing their activities. Chultun Beyli was + preparing to fight with them. + </p> + <p> + I asked them to take me to Domojiroff. Through the dark I saw four big + yurtas and two Mongol sentinels with Russian rifles. We entered the + Russian “Noyon’s” tent. A very strange picture was presented to our eyes. + In the middle of the yurta the brazier was burning. In the usual place for + the altar stood a throne, on which the tall, thin, grey-haired Colonel + Domojiroff was seated. He was only in his undergarments and stockings, was + evidently a little drunk and was telling stories. Around the brazier lay + twelve young men in various picturesque poses. My officer companion + reported to Domojiroff about the events in Uliassutai and during the + conversation I asked Domojiroff where his detachment was encamped. He + laughed and answered, with a sweep of his hand: “This is my detachment.” I + pointed out to him that the form of his orders to us in Uliassutai had led + us to believe that he must have a large company with him. Then I informed + him that Lt.-Colonel Michailoff was preparing to cross swords with the + Bolshevik force approaching Uliassutai. + </p> + <p> + “What?” he exclaimed with fear and confusion, “the Reds?” + </p> + <p> + We spent the night in his yurta and, when I was ready to lie down, my + officer whispered to me: + </p> + <p> + “Be sure to keep your revolver handy,” to which I laughed and said: + </p> + <p> + “But we are in the center of a White detachment and therefore in perfect + safety!” + </p> + <p> + “Uh-huh!” answered my officer and finished the response with one eye + closed. + </p> + <p> + The next day I invited Domojiroff to walk with me over the plain, when I + talked very frankly with him about what had been happening. He and Hun + Boldon had received orders from Baron Ungern simply to get into touch with + General Bakitch, but instead they began pillaging Chinese firms along the + route and he had made up his mind to become a great conqueror. On the way + he had run across some of the officers who deserted Colonel Kazagrandi and + formed his present band. I succeeded in persuading Domojiroff to arrange + matters peacefully with Chultun Beyli and not to violate the treaty. He + immediately went ahead to the monastery. As I returned, I met a tall + Mongol with a ferocious face, dressed in a blue silk outercoat—it + was Hun Boldon. He introduced himself and spoke with me in Russian. I had + only time to take off my coat in the tent of Domojiroff when a Mongol came + running to invite me to the yurta of Hun Boldon. The Prince lived just + beside me in a splendid blue yurta. Knowing the Mongolian custom, I jumped + into the saddle and rode the ten paces to his door. Hun Boldon received me + with coldness and pride. + </p> + <p> + “Who is he?” he inquired of the interpreter, pointing to me with his + finger. + </p> + <p> + I understood his desire to offend me and I answered in the same manner, + thrusting out my finger toward him and turning to the interpreter with the + same question in a slightly more unpleasant tone: + </p> + <p> + “Who is he? High Prince and warrior or shepherd and brute?” + </p> + <p> + Boldon at once became confused and, with trembling voice and agitation in + his whole manner, blurted out to me that he would not allow me to + interfere in his affairs and would shoot every man who dared to run + counter to his orders. He pounded on the low table with his fist and then + rose up and drew his revolver. But I was much traveled among the nomads + and had studied them thoroughly—Princes, Lamas, shepherds and + brigands. I grasped my whip and, striking it on the table with all my + strength, I said to the interpreter: + </p> + <p> + “Tell him that he has the honor to speak with neither Mongol nor Russian + but with a foreigner, a citizen of a great and free state. Tell him he + must first learn to be a man and then he can visit me and we can talk + together.” + </p> + <p> + I turned and went out. Ten minutes later Hun Boldon entered my yurta and + offered his apologies. I persuaded him to parley with Chultun Beyli and + not to offend the free Mongol people with his activities. That very night + all was arranged. Hun Boldon dismissed his Mongols and left for Kobdo, + while Domojiroff with his band started for Jassaktu Khan to arrange for + the mobilization of the Mongols there. With the consent of Chultun Beyli + he wrote to Wang Tsao-tsun a demand to disarm his guard, as all of the + Chinese troops in Urga had been so treated; but this letter arrived after + Wang had bought camels to replace the stolen horses and was on his way to + the border. Later Lt.-Colonel Michailoff sent a detachment of fifty men + under the command of Lieutenant Strigine to overhaul Wang and receive + their arms. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0027" id="link2HCH0027"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXVII + </h2> + <h3> + MYSTERY IN A SMALL TEMPLE + </h3> + <p> + Prince Chultun Beyli and I were ready to leave the Narabanchi Kure. While + the Hutuktu was holding service for the Sait in the Temple of Blessing, I + wandered around through the narrow alleyways between the walls of the + houses of the various grades of Lama Gelongs, Getuls, Chaidje and + Rabdjampa; of schools where the learned doctors of theology or Maramba + taught together with the doctors of medicine or Ta Lama; of the residences + for students called Bandi; of stores, archives and libraries. When I + returned to the yurta of the Hutuktu, he was inside. He presented me with + a large hatyk and proposed a walk around the monastery. His face wore a + preoccupied expression from which I gathered that he had something he + wished to discuss with me. As we went out of the yurta, the liberated + President of the Russian Chamber of Commerce and a Russian officer joined + us. The Hutuktu led us to a small building just back of a bright yellow + stone wall. + </p> + <p> + “In that building once stopped the Dalai Lama and Bogdo Khan and we always + paint the buildings yellow where these holy persons have lived. Enter!” + </p> + <p> + The interior of the building was arranged with splendor. On the ground + floor was the dining-room, furnished with richly carved, heavy blackwood + Chinese tables and cabinets filled with porcelains and bronze. Above were + two rooms, the first a bed-room hung with heavy yellow silk curtains; a + large Chinese lantern richly set with colored stones hung by a thin bronze + chain from the carved wooden ceiling beam. Here stood a large square bed + covered with silken pillows, mattresses and blankets. The frame work of + the bed was also of the Chinese blackwood and carried, especially on the + posts that held the roof-like canopy, finely executed carvings with the + chief motive the conventional dragon devouring the sun. By the side stood + a chest of drawers completely covered with carvings setting forth + religious pictures. Four comfortable easy chairs completed the furniture, + save for the low oriental throne which stood on a dais at the end of the + room. + </p> + <p> + “Do you see this throne?” said the Hutuktu to me. “One night in winter + several horsemen rode into the monastery and demanded that all the Gelongs + and Getuls with the Hutuktu and Kanpo at their head should congregate in + this room. Then one of the strangers mounted the throne, where he took off + his bashlyk or cap-like head covering. All of the Lamas fell to their + knees as they recognized the man who had been long ago described in the + sacred bulls of Dalai Lama, Tashi Lama and Bogdo Khan. He was the man to + whom the whole world belongs and who has penetrated into all the mysteries + of Nature. He pronounced a short Tibetan prayer, blessed all his hearers + and afterwards made predictions for the coming half century. This was + thirty years ago and in the interim all his prophecies are being + fulfilled. During his prayers before that small shrine in the next room + this door opened of its own accord, the candles and lights before the + altar lighted themselves and the sacred braziers without coals gave forth + great streams of incense that filled the room. And then, without warning, + the King of the World and his companions disappeared from among us. Behind + him remained no trace save the folds in the silken throne coverings which + smoothed themselves out and left the throne as though no one had sat upon + it.” + </p> + <p> + The Hutuktu entered the shrine, kneeled down, covering his eyes with his + hands, and began to pray. I looked at the calm, indifferent face of the + golden Buddha, over which the flickering lamps threw changing shadows, and + then turned my eyes to the side of the throne. It was wonderful and + difficult to believe but I really saw there the strong, muscular figure of + a man with a swarthy face of stern and fixed expression about the mouth + and jaws, thrown into high relief by the brightness of the eyes. Through + his transparent body draped in white raiment I saw the Tibetan + inscriptions on the back of the throne. I closed my eyes and opened them + again. No one was there but the silk throne covering seemed to be moving. + </p> + <p> + “Nervousness,” I thought. “Abnormal and over-emphasized impressionability + growing out of the unusual surroundings and strains.” + </p> + <p> + The Hutuktu turned to me and said: “Give me your hatyk. I have the feeling + that you are troubled about those whom you love, and I want to pray for + them. And you must pray also, importune God and direct the sight of your + soul to the King of the World who was here and sanctified this place.” + </p> + <p> + The Hutuktu placed the hatyk on the shoulder of the Buddha and, + prostrating himself on the carpet before the altar, whispered the words of + prayer. Then he raised his head and beckoned me to him with a slight + movement of his hand. + </p> + <p> + “Look at the dark space behind the statue of Buddha and he will show your + beloved to you.” + </p> + <p> + Readily obeying his deep-voiced command, I began to look into the dark + niche behind the figure of the Buddha. Soon out of the darkness began to + appear streams of smoke or transparent threads. They floated in the air, + becoming more and more dense and increasing in number, until gradually + they formed the bodies of several persons and the outlines of various + objects. I saw a room that was strange to me with my family there, + surrounded by some whom I knew and others whom I did not. I recognized + even the dress my wife wore. Every line of her dear face was clearly + visible. Gradually the vision became too dark, dissipated itself into the + streams of smoke and transparent threads and disappeared. Behind the + golden Buddha was nothing but the darkness. The Hutuktu arose, took my + hatyk from the shoulder of the Buddha and handed it to me with these + words: + </p> + <p> + “Fortune is always with you and with your family. God’s goodness will not + forsake you.” + </p> + <p> + We left the building of this unknown King of the World, where he had + prayed for all mankind and had predicted the fate of peoples and states. I + was greatly astonished to find that my companions had also seen my vision + and to hear them describe to me in minute detail the appearance and the + clothes of the persons whom I had seen in the dark niche behind the head + of Buddha.* + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * In order that I might have the evidence of others on this + extraordinarily impressive vision, I asked them to make + protocols or affidavits concerning what they saw. This they + did and I now have these statements in my possession. +</pre> + <p> + The Mongol officer also told me that Chultun Beyli had the day before + asked the Hutuktu to reveal to him his fate in this important juncture of + his life and in this crisis of his country but the Hutuktu only waved his + hand in an expression of fear and refused. When I asked the Hutuktu for + the reason of his refusal, suggesting to him that it might calm and help + Chultun Beyli as the vision of my beloved had strengthened me, the Hutuktu + knitted his brow and answered: + </p> + <p> + “No! The vision would not please the Prince. His fate is black. Yesterday + I thrice sought his fortune on the burned shoulder blades and with the + entrails of sheep and each time came to the same dire result, the same + dire result! . . .” + </p> + <p> + He did not really finish speaking but covered his face with his hands in + fear. He was convinced that the lot of Chultun Beyli was black as the + night. + </p> + <p> + In an hour we were behind the low hills that hid the Narabanchi Kure from + our sight. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0028" id="link2HCH0028"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXVIII + </h2> + <h3> + THE BREATH OF DEATH + </h3> + <p> + We arrived at Uliassutai on the day of the return of the detachment which + had gone out to disarm the convoy of Wang Tsao-tsun. This detachment had + met Colonel Domojiroff, who ordered them not only to disarm but to pillage + the convoy and, unfortunately, Lieutenant Strigine executed this illegal + and unwarranted command. It was compromising and ignominious to see + Russian officers and soldiers wearing the Chinese overcoats, boots and + wrist watches which had been taken from the Chinese officials and the + convoy. Everyone had Chinese silver and gold also from the loot. The + Mongol wife of Wang Tsao-tsun and her brother returned with the detachment + and entered a complaint of having been robbed by the Russians. The Chinese + officials and their convoy, deprived of their supplies, reached the + Chinese border only after great distress from hunger and cold. We + foreigners were astounded that Lt.-Colonel Michailoff received Strigine + with military honors but we caught the explanation of it later when we + learned that Michailoff had been given some of the Chinese silver and his + wife the handsomely decorated saddle of Fu Hsiang. Chultun Beyli demanded + that all the weapons taken from the Chinese and all the stolen property be + turned over to him, as it must later be returned to the Chinese + authorities; but Michailoff refused. Afterwards we foreigners cut off all + contact with the Russian detachment. The relations between the Russians + and Mongols became very strained. Several of the Russian officers + protested against the acts of Michailoff and Strigine and controversies + became more and more serious. + </p> + <p> + At this time, one morning in April, an extraordinary group of armed + horsemen arrived at Uliassutai. They stayed at the house of the Bolshevik + Bourdukoff, who gave them, so we were told, a great quantity of silver. + This group explained that they were former officers in the Imperial Guard. + They were Colonels Poletika, N. N. Philipoff and three of the latter’s + brothers. They announced that they wanted to collect all the White + officers and soldiers then in Mongolia and China and lead them to Urianhai + to fight the Bolsheviki; but that first they wanted to wipe out Ungern and + return Mongolia to China. They called themselves the representatives of + the Central Organization of the Whites in Russia. + </p> + <p> + The society of Russian officers in Uliassutai invited them to a meeting, + examined their documents and interrogated them. Investigation proved that + all the statements of these officers about their former connections were + entirely wrong, that Poletika occupied an important position in the war + commissariat of the Bolsheviki, that one of the Philipoff brothers was the + assistant of Kameneff in his first attempt to reach England, that the + Central White Organization in Russia did not exist, that the proposed + fighting in Urianhai was but a trap for the White officers and that this + group was in close relations with the Bolshevik Bourdukoff. + </p> + <p> + A discussion at once sprang up among the officers as to what they should + do with this group, which split the detachment into two distinct parties. + Lt.-Colonel Michailoff with several officers joined themselves to + Poletika’s group just as Colonel Domojiroff arrived with his detachment. + He began to get in touch with both factions and to feel out the politics + of the situation, finally appointing Poletika to the post of Commandant of + Uliassutai and sending to Baron Ungern a full report of the events in the + town. In this document he devoted much space to me, accusing me of + standing in the way of the execution of his orders. His officers watched + me continuously. From different quarters I received warnings to take great + care. This band and its leader openly demanded to know what right this + foreigner had to interfere in the affairs of Mongolia, one of Domojiroff’s + officers directly giving me the challenge in a meeting in the attempt to + provoke a controversy. I quietly answered him: + </p> + <p> + “And on what basis do the Russian refugees interfere, they who have rights + neither at home nor abroad?” + </p> + <p> + The officer made no verbal reply but in his eyes burned a definite answer. + My huge friend who sat beside me noticed this, strode over toward him and, + towering over him, stretched his arms and hands as though just waking from + sleep and remarked: “I’m looking for a little boxing exercise.” + </p> + <p> + On one occasion Domojiroff’s men would have succeeded in taking me if I + had not been saved by the watchfulness of our foreign group. I had gone to + the fortress to negotiate with the Mongol Sait for the departure of the + foreigners from Uliassutai. Chultun Beyli detained me for a long time, so + that I was forced to return about nine in the evening. My horse was + walking. Half a mile from the town three men sprang up out of the ditch + and ran at me. I whipped up my horse but noticed several more men coming + out of the other ditch as though to head me off. They, however, made for + the other group and captured them and I heard the voice of a foreigner + calling me back. There I found three of Domojiroff’s officers surrounded + by the Polish soldiers and other foreigners under the leadership of my old + trusted agronome, who was occupied with tying the hands of the officers + behind their backs so strongly that the bones cracked. Ending his work and + still smoking his perpetual pipe, he announced in a serious and important + manner: “I think it best to throw them into the river.” + </p> + <p> + Laughing at his seriousness and the fear of Domojiroff’s officers, I asked + them why they had started to attack me. They dropped their eyes and were + silent. It was an eloquent silence and we perfectly understood what they + had proposed to do. They had revolvers hidden in their pockets. + </p> + <p> + “Fine!” I said. “All is perfectly clear. I shall release you but you must + report to your sender that he will not welcome you back the next time. + Your weapons I shall hand to the Commandant of Uliassutai.” + </p> + <p> + My friend, using his former terrifying care, began to untie them, + repeating over and over: “And I would have fed you to the fishes in the + river!” Then we all returned to the town, leaving them to go their way. + </p> + <p> + Domojiroff continued to send envoys to Baron Ungern at Urga with requests + for plenary powers and money and with reports about Michailoff, Chultun + Beyli, Poletika, Philipoff and myself. With Asiatic cunning he was then + maintaining good relations with all those for whom he was preparing death + at the hands of the severe warrior, Baron Ungern, who was receiving only + one-sided reports about all the happenings in Uliassutai. Our whole colony + was greatly agitated. The officers split into different parties; the + soldiers collected in groups and discussed the events of the day, + criticising their chiefs, and under the influence of some of Domojiroff’s + men began making such statements as: + </p> + <p> + “We have now seven Colonels, who all want to be in command and are all + quarreling among themselves. They all ought to be pegged down and given + good sound thrashings. The one who could take the greatest number of blows + ought to be chosen as our chief.” + </p> + <p> + It was an ominous joke that proved the demoralization of the Russian + detachment. + </p> + <p> + “It seems,” my friend frequently observed, “that we shall soon have the + pleasure of seeing a Council of Soldiers here in Uliassutai. God and the + Devil! One thing here is very unfortunate—there are no forests near + into which good Christian men may dive and get away from all these cursed + Soviets. It’s bare, frightfully bare, this wretched Mongolia, with no + place for us to hide.” + </p> + <p> + Really this possibility of the Soviet was approaching. On one occasion the + soldiers captured the arsenal containing the weapons surrendered by the + Chinese and carried them off to their barracks. Drunkenness, gambling and + fighting increased. We foreigners, carefully watching events and in fear + of a catastrophe, finally decided to leave Uliassutai, that caldron of + passions, controversies and denunciations. We heard that the group of + Poletika was also preparing to get out a few days later. We foreigners + separated into two parties, one traveling by the old caravan route across + the Gobi considerably to the south of Urga to Kuku-Hoto or Kweihuacheng + and Kalgan, and mine, consisting of my friend, two Polish soldiers and + myself, heading for Urga via Zain Shabi, where Colonel Kazagrandi had + asked me in a recent letter to meet him. Thus we left the Uliassutai where + we had lived through so many exciting events. + </p> + <p> + On the sixth day after our departure there arrived in the town the + Mongol-Buriat detachment under the command of the Buriat Vandaloff and the + Russian Captain Bezrodnoff. Afterwards I met them in Zain Shabi. It was a + detachment sent out from Urga by Baron Ungern to restore order in + Uliassutai and to march on to Kobdo. On the way from Zain Shabi Bezrodnoff + came across the group of Poletika and Michailoff. He instituted a search + which disclosed suspicious documents in their baggage and in that of + Michailoff and his wife the silver and other possessions taken from the + Chinese. From this group of sixteen he sent N. N. Philipoff to Baron + Ungern, released three others and shot the remaining twelve. Thus ended in + Zain Shabi the life of one party of Uliassutai refugees and the activities + of the group of Poletika. In Uliassutai Bezrodnoff shot Chultun Beyli for + the violation of the treaty with the Chinese, and also some Bolshevist + Russian colonists; arrested Domojiroff and sent him to Urga; and . . . + restored order. The predictions about Chultun Beyli were fulfilled. + </p> + <p> + I knew of Domojiroff’s reports regarding myself but I decided, + nevertheless, to proceed to Urga and not to swing round it, as Poletika + had started to do when he was accidentally captured by Bezrodnoff. I was + accustomed now to looking into the eyes of danger and I set out to meet + the terrible “bloody Baron.” No one can decide his own fate. I did not + think myself in the wrong and the feeling of fear had long since ceased to + occupy a place in my menage. On the way a Mongol rider who overhauled us + brought the news of the death of our acquaintances at Zain Shabi. He spent + the night with me in the yurta at the ourton and related to me the + following legend of death. + </p> + <p> + “It was a long time ago when the Mongolians ruled over China. The Prince + of Uliassutai, Beltis Van, was mad. He executed any one he wished without + trial and no one dared to pass through his town. All the other Princes and + rich Mongols surrounded Uliassutai, where Beltis raged, cut off + communication on every road and allowed none to pass in or out. Famine + developed in the town. They consumed all the oxen, sheep and horses and + finally Beltis Van determined to make a dash with his soldiers through to + the west to the land of one of his tribes, the Olets. He and his men all + perished in the fight. The Princes, following the advice of the Hutuktu + Buyantu, buried the dead on the slopes of the mountains surrounding + Uliassutai. They buried them with incantations and exorcisings in order + that Death by Violence might be kept from a further visitation to their + land. The tombs were covered with heavy stones and the Hutuktu predicted + that the bad demon of Death by Violence would only leave the earth when + the blood of a man should be spilled upon the covering stone. Such a + legend lived among us. Now it is fulfilled. The Russians shot there three + Bolsheviki and the Chinese two Mongols. The evil spirit of Beltis Van + broke loose from beneath the heavy stone and now mows down the people with + his scythe. The noble Chultun Beyli has perished; the Russian Noyon + Michailoff also has fallen; and death has flowed out from Uliassutai all + over our boundless plains. Who shall be able to stem it now? Who shall tie + the ferocious hands? An evil time has fallen upon the Gods and the Good + Spirits. The Evil Demons have made war upon the Good Spirits. What can man + now do? Only perish, only perish. . . .” + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_PART3" id="link2H_PART3"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Part III + </h2> + <h3> + THE STRAINING HEART OF ASIA + </h3> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0029" id="link2HCH0029"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXIX + </h2> + <h3> + ON THE ROAD OF GREAT CONQUERORS + </h3> + <p> + The great conqueror, Jenghiz Khan, the son of sad, stern, severe Mongolia, + according to an old Mongolian legend “mounted to the top of Karasu Togol + and with his eyes of an eagle looked to the west and the east. In the west + he saw whole seas of human blood over which floated a bloody fog that + blanketed all the horizon. There he could not discern his fate. But the + gods ordered him to proceed to the west, leading with him all his warriors + and Mongolian tribes. To the east he saw wealthy towns, shining temples, + crowds of happy people, gardens and fields of rich earth, all of which + pleased the great Mongol. He said to his sons: ‘There in the west I shall + be fire and sword, destroyer, avenging Fate; in the east I shall come as + the merciful, great builder, bringing happiness to the people and to the + land.’” + </p> + <p> + Thus runs the legend. I found much of truth in it. I had passed over much + of his road to the west and always identified it by the old tombs and the + impertinent monuments of stone to the merciless conqueror. I saw also a + part of the eastern road of the hero, over which he traveled to China. + Once when we were making a trip out of Uliassutai we stopped the night in + Djirgalantu. The old host of the ourton, knowing me from my previous trip + to Narabanchi, welcomed us very kindly and regaled us with stories during + our evening meal. Among other things he led us out of the yurta and + pointed out a mountain peak brightly lighted by the full moon and + recounted to us the story of one of the sons of Jenghiz, afterwards + Emperor of China, Indo-China and Mongolia, who had been attracted by the + beautiful scenery and grazing lands of Djirgalantu and had founded here a + town. This was soon left without inhabitants, for the Mongol is a nomad + who cannot live in artificial cities. The plain is his house and the world + his town. For a time this town witnessed battles between the Chinese and + the troops of Jenghiz Khan but afterwards it was forgotten. At present + there remains only a half-ruined tower, from which in the early days the + heavy rocks were hurled down upon the heads of the enemy, and the + dilapidated gate of Kublai, the grandson of Jenghiz Khan. Against the + greenish sky drenched with the rays of the moon stood out the jagged line + of the mountains and the black silhouette of the tower with its loopholes, + through which the alternate scudding clouds and light flashed. + </p> + <p> + When our party left Uliassutai, we traveled on leisurely, making + thirty-five to fifty miles a day until we were within sixty miles of Zain + Shabi, where I took leave of the others to go south to this place in order + to keep my engagement with Colonel Kazagrandi. The sun had just risen as + my single Mongol guide and I without any pack animals began to ascend the + low, timbered ridges, from the top of which I caught the last glimpses of + my companions disappearing down the valley. I had no idea then of the many + and almost fatal dangers which I should have to pass through during this + trip by myself, which was destined to prove much longer than I had + anticipated. As we were crossing a small river with sandy shores, my + Mongol guide told me how the Mongolians came there during the summer to + wash gold, in spite of the prohibitions of the Lamas. The manner of + working the placer was very primitive but the results testified clearly to + the richness of these sands. The Mongol lies flat on the ground, brushes + the sand aside with a feather and keeps blowing into the little excavation + so formed. From time to time he wets his finger and picks up on it a small + bit of grain gold or a diminutive nugget and drops these into a little bag + hanging under his chin. In such manner this primitive dredge wins about a + quarter of an ounce or five dollars’ worth of the yellow metal per day. + </p> + <p> + I determined to make the whole distance to Zain Shabi in a single day. At + the ourtons I hurried them through the catching and saddling of the horses + as fast as I could. At one of these stations about twenty-five miles from + the monastery the Mongols gave me a wild horse, a big, strong white + stallion. Just as I was about to mount him and had already touched my foot + to the stirrup, he jumped and kicked me right on the leg which had been + wounded in the Ma-chu fight. The leg soon began to swell and ache. At + sunset I made out the first Russian and Chinese buildings and later the + monastery at Zain. We dropped into the valley of a small stream which + flowed along a mountain on whose peak were set white rocks forming the + words of a Tibetan prayer. At the bottom of this mountain was a cemetery + for the Lamas, that is, piles of bones and a pack of dogs. At last the + monastery lay right below us, a common square surrounded with wooden + fences. In the middle rose a large temple quite different from all those + of western Mongolia, not in the Chinese but in the Tibetan style of + architecture, a white building with perpendicular walls and regular rows + of windows in black frames, with a roof of black tiles and with a most + unusual damp course laid between the stone walls and the roof timbers and + made of bundles of twigs from a Tibetan tree which never rots. Another + small quadrangle lay a little to the east and contained Russian buildings + connected with the monastery by telephone. + </p> + <p> + “That is the house of the Living God of Zain,” the Mongol explained, + pointing to this smaller quadrangle. “He likes Russian customs and + manners.” + </p> + <p> + To the north on a conical-shaped hill rose a tower that recalled the + Babylonian zikkurat. It was the temple where the ancient books and + manuscripts were kept and the broken ornaments and objects used in the + religious ceremonies together with the robes of deceased Hutuktus + preserved. A sheer cliff rose behind this museum, which it was impossible + for one to climb. On the face of this were carved images of the Lamaite + gods, scattered about without any special order. They were from one to two + and a half metres high. At night the monks lighted lamps before them, so + that one could see these images of the gods and goddesses from far away. + </p> + <p> + We entered the trading settlement. The streets were deserted and from the + windows only women and children looked out. I stopped with a Russian firm + whose other branches I had known throughout the country. Much to my + astonishment they welcomed me as an acquaintance. It appeared that the + Hutuktu of Narabanchi had sent word to all the monasteries that, whenever + I should come, they must all render me aid, inasmuch as I had saved the + Narabanchi Monastery and, by the clear signs of the divinations, I was an + incarnate Buddha beloved of the Gods. This letter of this kindly disposed + Hutuktu helped me very much—perhaps I should even say more, that it + saved me from death. The hospitality of my hosts proved of great and much + needed assistance to me because my injured leg had swelled and was aching + severely. When I took off my boot, I found my foot all covered with blood + and my old wound re-opened by the blow. A felcher was called to assist me + with treatment and bandaging, so that I was able to walk again three days + later. + </p> + <p> + I did not find Colonel Kazagrandi at Zain Shabi. After destroying the + Chinese gamins who had killed the local Commandant, he had returned via + Van Kure. The new Commandment handed me the letter of Kazagrandi, who very + cordially asked me to visit him after I had rested in Zain. A Mongolian + document was enclosed in the letter giving me the right to receive horses + and carts from herd to herd by means of the “urga,” which I shall later + describe and which opened for me an entirely new vista of Mongolian life + and country that I should otherwise never have seen. The making of this + journey of over two hundred miles was a very disagreeable task for me; but + evidently Kazagrandi, whom I had never met, had serious reasons for + wishing this meeting. + </p> + <p> + At one o’clock the day after my arrival I was visited by the local “Very + God,” Gheghen Pandita Hutuktu. A more strange and extraordinary appearance + of a god I could not imagine. He was a short, thin young man of twenty or + twenty-two years with quick, nervous movements and with an expressive face + lighted and dominated, like the countenances of all the Mongol gods, by + large, frightened eyes. He was dressed in a blue silk Russian uniform with + yellow epaulets with the sacred sign of Pandita Hutuktu, in blue silk + trousers and high boots, all surmounted by a white Astrakhan cap with a + yellow pointed top. At his girdle a revolver and sword were slung. I did + not know quite what to think of this disguised god. He took a cup of tea + from the host and began to talk with a mixture of Mongolian and Russian. + </p> + <p> + “Not far from my Kure is located the ancient monastery of Erdeni Dzu, + erected on the site of the ruins of Karakorum, the ancient capital of + Jenghiz Khan and afterwards frequently visited by Kublai Kahn for + sanctuary and rest after his labors as Emperor of China, India, Persia, + Afghanistan, Mongolia and half of Europe. Now only ruins and tombs remain + to mark this former ‘Garden of Beatific Days.’ The pious monks of Baroun + Kure found in the underground chambers of the ruins manuscripts that were + much older than Erdeni Dzu itself. In these my Maramba Meetchik-Atak found + the prediction that the Hutuktu of Zain who should carry the title of + ‘Pandita,’ should be but twenty-one years of age, be born in the heart of + the lands of Jenghiz Khan and have on his chest the natural sign of the + swastika—such Hutuktu would be honored by the people in the days of + a great war and trouble, would begin the fight with the servants of Red + evil and would conquer them and bring order into the universe, celebrating + this happy day in the city with white temples and with the songs of ten + thousand bells. It is I, Pandita Hutuktu! The signs and symbols have met + in me. I shall destroy the Bolsheviki, the bad ‘servants of the Red evil,’ + and in Moscow I shall rest from my glorious and great work. Therefore I + have asked Colonel Kazagrandi to enlist me in the troops of Baron Ungern + and give me the chance to fight. The Lamas seek to prevent me from going + but who is the god here?” + </p> + <p> + He very sternly stamped his foot, while the Lamas and guard who + accompanied him reverently bowed their heads. + </p> + <p> + As he left he presented me with a hatyk and, rummaging through my saddle + bags, I found a single article that might be considered worthy as a gift + for a Hutuktu, a small bottle of osmiridium, this rare, natural + concomitant of platinum. + </p> + <p> + “This is the most stable and hardest of metals,” I said. “Let it be the + sign of your glory and strength, Hutuktu!” + </p> + <p> + The Pandita thanked me and invited me to visit him. When I had recovered a + little, I went to his house, which was arranged in European style: + electric lights, push bells and telephone. He feasted me with wine and + sweets and introduced me to two very interesting personages, one an old + Tibetan surgeon with a face deeply pitted by smallpox, a heavy thick nose + and crossed eyes. He was a peculiar surgeon, consecrated in Tibet. His + duties consisted in treating and curing Hutuktus when they were ill and . + . . in poisoning them when they became too independent or extravagant or + when their policies were not in accord with the wishes of the Council of + Lamas of the Living Buddha or the Dalai Lama. By now Pandita Hutuktu + probably rests in eternal peace on the top of some sacred mountain, sent + thither by the solicitude of his extraordinary court physician. The + martial spirit of Pandita Hutuktu was very unwelcome to the Council of + Lamas, who protested against the adventuresomeness of this “Living God.” + </p> + <p> + Pandita liked wine and cards. One day when he was in the company of + Russians and dressed in a European suit, some Lamas came running to + announce that divine service had begun and that the “Living God” must take + his place on the altar to be prayed to but he had gone out from his abode + and was playing cards! Without any confusion Pandita drew his red mantle + of the Hutuktu over his European coat and long grey trousers and allowed + the shocked Lamas to carry their “God” away in his palanquin. + </p> + <p> + Besides the surgeon-poisoner I met at the Hutuktu’s a lad of thirteen + years, whose youthfulness, red robe and cropped hair led me to suppose he + was a Bandi or student servant in the home of the Hutuktu; but it turned + out otherwise. This boy was the first Hubilgan, also an incarnate Buddha, + an artful teller of fortunes and the successor of Pandita Hutuktu. He was + drunk all the time and a great card player, always making side-splitting + jokes that greatly offended the Lamas. + </p> + <p> + That same evening I made the acquaintance of the second Hubilgan who + called on me, the real administrator of Zain Shabi, which is an + independent dominion subject directly to the Living Buddha. This Hubilgan + was a serious and ascetic man of thirty-two, well educated and deeply + learned in Mongol lore. He knew Russian and read much in that language, + being interested chiefly in the life and stories of other peoples. He had + a high respect for the creative genius of the American people and said to + me: + </p> + <p> + “When you go to America, ask the Americans to come to us and lead us out + from the darkness that surrounds us. The Chinese and Russians will lead us + to destruction and only the Americans can save us.” + </p> + <p> + It is a deep satisfaction for me to carry out the request of this + influential Mongol, Hubilgan, and to urge his appeal to the American + people. Will you not save this honest, uncorrupted but dark, deceived and + oppressed people? They should not be allowed to perish, for within their + souls they carry a great store of strong moral forces. Make of them a + cultured people, believing in the verity of humankind; teach them to use + the wealth of their land; and the ancient people of Jenghiz Khan will ever + be your faithful friends. + </p> + <p> + When I had sufficiently recovered, the Hutuktu invited me to travel with + him to Erdeni Dzu, to which I willingly agreed. On the following morning a + light and comfortable carriage was brought for me. Our trip lasted five + days, during which we visited Erdeni Dzu, Karakorum, Hoto-Zaidam and + Hara-Balgasun. All these are the ruins of monasteries and cities erected + by Jenghiz Khan and his successors, Ugadai Khan and Kublai in the + thirteenth century. Now only the remnants of walls and towers remain, some + large tombs and whole books of legends and stories. + </p> + <p> + “Look at these tombs!” said the Hutuktu to me. “Here the son of Khan Uyuk + was buried. This young prince was bribed by the Chinese to kill his father + but was frustrated in his attempt by his own sister, who killed him in her + watchful care of her old father, the Emperor and Khan. There is the tomb + of Tsinilla, the beloved spouse of Khan Mangu. She left the capital of + China to go to Khara Bolgasun, where she fell in love with the brave + shepherd Damcharen, who overtook the wind on his steed and who captured + wild yaks and horses with his bare hands. The enraged Khan ordered his + unfaithful wife strangled but afterwards buried her with imperial honors + and frequently came to her tomb to weep for his lost love.” + </p> + <p> + “And what happened to Damcharen?” I inquired. + </p> + <p> + The Hutuktu himself did not know; but his old servant, the real archive of + legends, answered: + </p> + <p> + “With the aid of ferocious Chahar brigands he fought with China for a long + time. It is, however, unknown how he died.” + </p> + <p> + Among the ruins the monks pray at certain fixed times and they also search + for sacred books and objects concealed or buried in the debris. Recently + they found here two Chinese rifles and two gold rings and big bundles of + old manuscripts tied with leather thongs. + </p> + <p> + “Why did this region attract the powerful emperors and Khans who ruled + from the Pacific to the Adriatic?” I asked myself. Certainly not these + mountains and valleys covered with larch and birch, not these vast sands, + receding lakes and barren rocks. It seems that I found the answer. + </p> + <p> + The great emperors, remembering the vision of Jenghiz Khan, sought here + new revelations and predictions of his miraculous, majestic destiny, + surrounded by the divine honors, obeisance and hate. Where could they come + into touch with the gods, the good and bad spirits? Only there where they + abode. All the district of Zain with these ancient ruins is just such a + place. + </p> + <p> + “On this mountain only such men can ascend as are born of the direct line + of Jenghiz Khan,” the Pandita explained to me. “Half way up the ordinary + man suffocates and dies, if he ventures to go further. Recently Mongolian + hunters chased a pack of wolves up this mountain and, when they came to + this part of the mountainside, they all perished. There on the slopes of + the mountain lie the bones of eagles, big horned sheep and the kabarga + antelope, light and swift as the wind. There dwells the bad demon who + possesses the book of human destinies.” + </p> + <p> + “This is the answer,” I thought. + </p> + <p> + In the Western Caucasus I once saw a mountain between Soukhoum Kale and + Tuopsei where wolves, eagles and wild goats also perish, and where men + would likewise perish if they did not go on horseback through this zone. + There the earth breathes out carbonic acid gas through holes in the + mountainside, killing all animal life. The gas clings to the earth in a + layer about half a metre thick. Men on horseback pass above this and the + horses always hold their heads way up and snuff and whinny in fear until + they cross the dangerous zone. Here on the top of this mountain where the + bad demon peruses the book of human destinies is the same phenomenon, and + I realized the sacred fear of the Mongols as well as the stern attraction + of this place for the tall, almost gigantic descendants of Jenghiz Khan. + Their heads tower above the layers of poisonous gas, so that they can + reach the top of this mysterious and terrible mountain. Also it is + possible to explain this phenomenon geologically, because here in this + region is the southern edge of the coal deposits which are the source of + carbonic acid and swamp gases. + </p> + <p> + Not far from the ruins in the lands of Hun Doptchin Djamtso there is a + small lake which sometimes burns with a red flame, terrifying the Mongols + and herds of horses. Naturally this lake is rich with legends. Here a + meteor formerly fell and sank far into the earth. In the hole this lake + appeared. Now, it seems, the inhabitants of the subterranean passages, + semi-man and semi-demon, are laboring to extract this “stone of the sky” + from its deep bed and it is setting the water on fire as it rises and + falls back in spite of their every effort. I did not see the lake myself + but a Russian colonist told me that it may be petroleum on the lake that + is fired either from the campfires of the shepherds or by the blazing rays + of the sun. + </p> + <p> + At any rate all this makes it very easy to understand the attractions for + the great Mongol potentates. The strongest impression was produced upon me + by Karakorum, the place where the cruel and wise Jenghiz Khan lived and + laid his gigantic plans for overrunning all the west with blood and for + covering the east with a glory never before seen. Two Karakorums were + erected by Jenghiz Khan, one here near Tatsa Gol on the Caravan Road and + the other in Pamir, where the sad warriors buried the greatest of human + conquerors in the mausoleum built by five hundred captives who were + sacrificed to the spirit of the deceased when their work was done. + </p> + <p> + The warlike Pandita Hutuktu prayed on the ruins where the shades of these + potentates who had ruled half the world wandered, and his soul longed for + the chimerical exploits and for the glory of Jenghiz and Tamerlane. + </p> + <p> + On the return journey we were invited not far from Zain to visit a very + rich Mongol by the way. He had already prepared the yurtas suitable for + Princes, ornamented with rich carpets and silk draperies. The Hutuktu + accepted. We arranged ourselves on the soft pillows in the yurtas as the + Hutuktu blessed the Mongol, touching his head with his holy hand, and + received the hatyks. The host then had a whole sheep brought in to us, + boiled in a huge vessel. The Hutuktu carved off one hind leg and offered + it to me, while he reserved the other for himself. After this he gave a + large piece of meat to the smallest son of the host, which was the sign + that Pandita Hutuktu invited all to begin the feast. In a trice the sheep + was entirely carved or torn up and in the hands of the banqueters. When + the Hutuktu had thrown down by the brazier the white bones without a trace + of meat left on them, the host on his knees withdrew from the fire a piece + of sheepskin and ceremoniously offered it on both his hands to the + Hutuktu. Pandita began to clean off the wool and ashes with his knife and, + cutting it into thin strips, fell to eating this really tasty course. It + is the covering from just above the breast bone and is called in Mongolian + tarach or “arrow.” When a sheep is skinned, this small section is cut out + and placed on the hot coals, where it is broiled very slowly. Thus + prepared it is considered the most dainty bit of the whole animal and is + always presented to the guest of honor. It is not permissible to divide + it, such is the strength of the custom and ceremony. + </p> + <p> + After dinner our host proposed a hunt for bighorns, a large herd of which + was known to graze in the mountains within less than a mile from the + yurtas. Horses with rich saddles and bridles were led up. All the + elaborate harness of the Hutuktu’s mount was ornamented with red and + yellow bits of cloth as a mark of his rank. About fifty Mongol riders + galloped behind us. When we left our horses, we were placed behind the + rocks roughly three hundred paces apart and the Mongols began the + encircling movement around the mountain. After about half an hour I + noticed way up among the rocks something flash and soon made out a fine + bighorn jumping with tremendous springs from rock to rock, and behind him + a herd of some twenty odd head leaping like lightning over the ground. I + was vexed beyond words when it appeared that the Mongols had made a mess + of it and pushed the herd out to the side before having completed their + circle. But happily I was mistaken. Behind a rock right ahead of the herd + a Mongol sprang up and waved his hands. Only the big leader was not + frightened and kept right on past the unarmed Mongol while all the rest of + the herd swung suddenly round and rushed right down upon me. I opened fire + and dropped two of them. The Hutuktu also brought down one as well as a + musk antelope that came unexpectedly from behind a rock hard by. The + largest pair of horns weighed about thirty pounds, but they were from a + young sheep. + </p> + <p> + The day following our return to Zain Shabi, as I was feeling quite + recovered, I decided to go on to Van Kure. At my leave-taking from the + Hutuktu I received a large hatyk from him together with warmest + expressions of thanks for the present I had given him on the first day of + our acquaintance. + </p> + <p> + “It is a fine medicine!” he exclaimed. “After our trip I felt quite + exhausted but I took your medicine and am now quite rejuvenated. Many, + many thanks!” + </p> + <p> + The poor chap had swallowed my osmiridium. To be sure it could not harm + him; but to have helped him was wonderful. Perhaps doctors in the Occident + may wish to try this new, harmless and very cheap remedy—only eight + pounds of it in the whole world—and I merely ask that they leave me + the patent rights for it for Mongolia, Barga, Sinkiang, Koko Nor and all + the other lands of Central Asia. + </p> + <p> + An old Russian colonist went as guide for me. They gave me a big but light + and comfortable cart hitched and drawn in a marvelous way. A straight pole + four metres long was fastened athwart the front of the shafts. On either + side two riders took this pole across their saddle pommels and galloped + away with me across the plains. Behind us galloped four other riders with + four extra horses. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0030" id="link2HCH0030"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXX + </h2> + <h3> + ARRESTED! + </h3> + <p> + About twelve miles from Zain we saw from a ridge a snakelike line of + riders crossing the valley, which detachment we met half an hour later on + the shore of a deep, swampy stream. The group consisted of Mongols, + Buriats and Tibetans armed with Russian rifles. At the head of the column + were two men, one of whom in a huge black Astrakhan and black felt cape + with red Caucasian cowl on his shoulders blocked my road and, in a coarse, + harsh voice, demanded of me: “Who are you, where are you from and where + are you going?” + </p> + <p> + I gave also a laconic answer. They then said that they were a detachment + of troops from Baron Ungern under the command of Captain Vandaloff. “I am + Captain Bezrodnoff, military judge.” + </p> + <p> + Suddenly he laughed loudly. His insolent, stupid face did not please me + and, bowing to the officers, I ordered my riders to move. + </p> + <p> + “Oh no!” he remonstrated, as he blocked the road again. “I cannot allow + you to go farther. I want to have a long and serious conversation with you + and you will have to come back to Zain for it.” + </p> + <p> + I protested and called attention to the letter of Colonel Kazagrandi, only + to hear Bezrodnoff answer with coldness: + </p> + <p> + “This letter is a matter of Colonel Kazagrandi’s and to bring you back to + Zain and talk with you is my affair. Now give me your weapon.” + </p> + <p> + But I could not yield to this demand, even though death were threatened. + </p> + <p> + “Listen,” I said. “Tell me frankly. Is yours really a detachment fighting + against the Boisheviki or is it a Red contingent?” + </p> + <p> + “No, I assure you!” replied the Buriat officer Vandaloff, approaching me. + “We have already been fighting the Bolsheviki for three years.” + </p> + <p> + “Then I cannot hand you my weapon,” I calmly replied. “I brought it from + Soviet Siberia, have had many fights with this faithful weapon and now I + am to be disarmed by White officers! It is an offence that I cannot + allow.” + </p> + <p> + With these words I threw my rifle and my Mauser into the stream. The + officers were confused. Bezrodnoff turned red with anger. + </p> + <p> + “I freed you and myself from humiliation,” I explained. + </p> + <p> + Bezrodnoff in silence turned his horse, the whole detachment of three + hundred men passed immediately before me and only the last two riders + stopped, ordered my Mongols to turn my cart round and then fell in behind + my little group. So I was arrested! One of the horsemen behind me was a + Russian and he told me that Bezrodnoff carried with him many death + decrees. I was sure that mine was among them. + </p> + <p> + Stupid, very stupid! What was the use of fighting one’s way through Red + detachments, of being frozen and hungry, of almost perishing in Tibet only + to die from a bullet of one of Bezrodnoff’s Mongols? For such a pleasure + it was not worth while to travel so long and so far! In every Siberian + “Cheka” I could have had this end so joyfully accorded me. + </p> + <p> + When we arrived at Zain Shabi, my luggage was examined and Bezrodnoff + began to question me in minutest detail about the events in Uliassutai. We + talked about three hours, during which I tried to defend all the officers + of Uliassutai, maintaining that one must not trust only the reports of + Domojiroff. When our conversation was finished, the Captain stood up and + offered his apologies for detaining me in my journey. Afterwards he + presented me a fine Mauser with silver mountings on the handle and said: + </p> + <p> + “Your pride greatly pleased me. I beg you to receive this weapon as a + memento of me.” + </p> + <p> + The following morning I set out anew from Zain Shabi, having in my pocket + the laissez-passer of Bezrodnoff for his outposts. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0031" id="link2HCH0031"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXXI + </h2> + <h3> + TRAVELING BY “URGA” + </h3> + <p> + Once more we traveled along the now known places, the mountain from which + I espied the detachment of Bezrodnoff, the stream into which I had thrown + my weapon, and soon all this lay behind us. At the first ourton we were + disappointed because we did not find horses there. In the yurtas were only + the host with two of his sons. I showed him my document and he exclaimed: + </p> + <p> + “Noyon has the right of ‘urga.’ Horses will be brought very soon.” + </p> + <p> + He jumped into his saddle, took two of my Mongols with him, providing them + and himself with long thin poles, four or five metres in length, and + fitted at the end with a loop of rope, and galloped away. My cart moved + behind them. We left the road, crossed the plain for an hour and came upon + a big herd of horses grazing there. The Mongol began to catch a quota of + them for us with his pole and noose or urga, when out of the mountains + nearby came galloping the owners of the herds. When the old Mongol showed + my papers to them, they submissively acquiesced and substituted four of + their men for those who had come with me thus far. In this manner the + Mongols travel, not along the ourton or station road but directly from one + herd to another, where the fresh horses are caught and saddled and the new + owners substituted for those of the last herd. All the Mongols so effected + by the right of urga try to finish their task as rapidly as possible and + gallop like mad for the nearest herd in your general direction of travel + to turn over their task to their neighbor. Any traveler having this right + of urga can catch horses himself and, if there are no owners, can force + the former ones to carry on and leave the animals in the next herd he + requisitions. But this happens very rarely because the Mongol never likes + to seek out his animals in another’s herd, as it always gives so many + chances for controversy. + </p> + <p> + It was from this custom, according to one explanation, that the town of + Urga took its name among outsiders. By the Mongols themselves it is always + referred to as Ta Kure, “The Great Monastery.” The reason the Buriats and + Russians, who were the first to trade into this region, called it Urga was + because it was the principal destination of all the trading expeditions + which crossed the plains by this old method or right of travel. A second + explanation is that the town lies in a “loop” whose sides are formed by + three mountain ridges, along one of which the River Tola runs like the + pole or stick of the familiar urga of the plains. + </p> + <p> + Thanks to this unique ticket of urga I crossed quite untraveled sections + of Mongolia for about two hundred miles. It gave me the welcome + opportunity to observe the fauna of this part of the country. I saw many + huge herds of Mongolian antelopes running from five to six thousand, many + groups of bighorns, wapiti and kabarga antelopes. Sometimes small herds of + wild horses and wild asses flashed as a vision on the horizon. + </p> + <p> + In one place I observed a big colony of marmots. All over an area of + several square miles their mounds were scattered with the holes leading + down to their runways below, the dwellings of the marmot. In and out among + these mounds the greyish-yellow or brown animals ran in all sizes up to + half that of an average dog. They ran heavily and the skin on their fat + bodies moved as though it were too big for them. The marmots are splendid + prospectors, always digging deep ditches, throwing out on the surface all + the stones. In many places I saw mounds the marmots had made from copper + ore and farther north some from minerals containing wolfram and vanadium. + Whenever the marmot is at the entrance of his hole, he sits up straight on + his hind legs and looks like a bit of wood, a small stump or a stone. As + soon as he spies a rider in the distance, he watches him with great + curiosity and begins whistling sharply. This curiosity of the marmots is + taken advantage of by the hunters, who sneak up to their holes flourishing + streamers of cloth on the tips of long poles. The whole attention of the + small animals is concentrated on this small flag and only the bullet that + takes his life explains to him the reason for this previously unknown + object. + </p> + <p> + I saw a very exciting picture as I passed through a marmot colony near the + Orkhon River. There were thousands of holes here so that my Mongols had to + use all their skill to keep the horses from breaking their legs in them. I + noticed an eagle circling high overhead. All of a sudden he dropped like a + stone to the top of a mound, where he sat motionless as a rock. The marmot + in a few minutes ran out of his hole to a neighbor’s doorway. The eagle + calmly jumped down from the top and with one wing closed the entrance to + the hole. The rodent heard the noise, turned back and rushed to the + attack, trying to break through to his hole where he had evidently left + his family. The struggle began. The eagle fought with one free wing, one + leg and his beak but did not withdraw the bar to the entrance. The marmot + jumped at the rapacious bird with great boldness but soon fell from a blow + on the head. Only then the eagle withdrew his wing, approached the marmot, + finished him off and with difficulty lifted him in his talons to carry him + away to the mountains for a tasty luncheon. + </p> + <p> + In the more barren places with only occasional spears of grass in the + plain another species of rodent lives, called imouran, about the size of a + squirrel. They have a coat the same color as the prairie and, running + about it like snakes, they collect the seeds that are blown across by the + wind and carry them down into their diminutive homes. The imouran has a + truly faithful friend, the yellow lark of the prairie with a brown back + and head. When he sees the imouran running across the plain, he settles on + his back, flaps his wings in balance and rides well this swiftly galloping + mount, who gaily flourishes his long shaggy tail. The lark during his ride + skilfully and quickly catches the parasites living on the body of his + friend, giving evidence of his enjoyment of his work with a short + agreeable song. The Mongols call the imouran “the steed of the gay lark.” + The lark warns the imouran of the approach of eagles and hawks with three + sharp whistles the moment he sees the aerial brigand and takes refuge + himself behind a stone or in a small ditch. After this signal no imouran + will stick his head out of his hole until the danger is past. Thus the gay + lark and his steed live in kindly neighborliness. + </p> + <p> + In other parts of Mongolia where there was very rich grass I saw another + type of rodent, which I had previously come across in Urianhai. It is a + gigantic black prairie rat with a short tail and lives in colonies of from + one to two hundred. He is interesting and unique as the most skilful + farmer among the animals in his preparation of his winter supply of + fodder. During the weeks when the grass is most succulent he actually mows + it down with swift jerky swings of his head, cutting about twenty or + thirty stalks with his sharp long front teeth. Then he allows his grass to + cure and later puts up his prepared hay in a most scientific manner. First + he makes a mound about a foot high. Through this he pushes down into the + ground four slanting stakes, converging toward the middle of the pile, and + binds them close over the surface of the hay with the longest strands of + grass, leaving the ends protruding enough for him to add another foot to + the height of the pile, when he again binds the surface with more long + strands—all this to keep his winter supply of food from blowing away + over the prairie. This stock he always locates right at the door of his + den to avoid long winter hauls. The horses and camels are very fond of + this small farmer’s hay, because it is always made from the most + nutritious grass. The haycocks are so strongly made that one can hardly + kick them to pieces. + </p> + <p> + Almost everywhere in Mongolia I met either single pairs or whole flocks of + the greyish-yellow prairie partridges, salga or “partridge swallow,” so + called because they have long sharp tails resembling those of swallows and + because their flight also is a close copy of that of the swallow. These + birds are very tame or fearless, allowing men to come within ten or + fifteen paces of them; but, when they do break, they go high and fly long + distances without lighting, whistling all the time quite like swallows. + Their general markings are light grey and yellow, though the males have + pretty chocolate spots on the backs and wings, while their legs and feet + are heavily feathered. + </p> + <p> + My opportunity to make these observations came from traveling through + unfrequented regions by the urga, which, however, had its counterbalancing + disadvantages. The Mongols carried me directly and swiftly toward my + destination, receiving with great satisfaction the presents of Chinese + dollars which I gave them. But after having made about five thousand miles + on my Cossack saddle that now lay behind me on the cart all covered with + dust like common merchandise, I rebelled against being wracked and torn by + the rough riding of the cart as it was swung heedlessly over stones, + hillocks and ditches by the wild horses with their equally wild riders, + bounding and cracking and holding together only through its tenacity of + purpose in demonstrating the cosiness and attractiveness of a good Mongol + equipage! All my bones began to ache. Finally I groaned at every lunge and + at last I suffered a very sharp attack of ischias or sciatica in my + wounded leg. At night I could neither sleep, lie down nor sit with comfort + and spent the whole night pacing up and down the plain, listening to the + loud snoring of the inhabitants of the yurta. At times I had to fight the + two huge black dogs which attacked me. The following day I could endure + the wracking only until noon and was then forced to give up and lie down. + The pain was unbearable. I could not move my leg nor my back and finally + fell into a high fever. We were forced to stop and rest. I swallowed all + my stock of aspirin and quinine but without relief. Before me was a + sleepless night about which I could not think without weakening fear. We + had stopped in the yurta for guests by the side of a small monastery. My + Mongols invited the Lama doctor to visit me, who gave me two very bitter + powders and assured me I should be able to continue in the morning. I soon + felt a stimulated palpitation of the heart, after which the pain became + even sharper. Again I spent the night without any sleep but when the sun + arose the pain ceased instantly and, after an hour, I ordered them to + saddle me a horse, as I was afraid to continue further in the cart. + </p> + <p> + While the Mongols were catching the horses, there came to my tent Colonel + N. N. Philipoff, who told me that he denied all the accusations that he + and his brother and Poletika were Bolsheviki and that Bezrodnoff allowed + him to go to Van Kure to meet Baron Ungern, who was expected there. Only + Philipoff did not know that his Mongol guide was armed with a bomb and + that another Mongol had been sent on ahead with a letter to Baron Ungern. + He did not know that Poletika and his brothers were shot at the same time + in Zain Shabi. Philipoff was in a hurry and wanted to reach Van Kure that + day. I left an hour after him. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0032" id="link2HCH0032"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXXII + </h2> + <h3> + AN OLD FORTUNE TELLER + </h3> + <p> + From this point we began traveling along the ourton road. In this region + the Mongols had very poor and exhausted horses, because they were forced + continuously to supply mounts to the numerous envoys of Daichin Van and of + Colonel Kazagrandi. We were compelled to spend the night at the last + ourton before Van Kure, where a stout old Mongol and his son kept the + station. After our supper he took the shoulder-blade of the sheep, which + had been carefully scraped clean of all the flesh, and, looking at me, + placed this bone in the coals with some incantations and said: + </p> + <p> + “I want to tell your fortune. All my predictions come true.” + </p> + <p> + When the bone had been blackened he drew it out, blew off the ashes and + began to scrutinize the surface very closely and to look through it into + the fire. He continued his examination for a long time and then, with fear + in his face, placed the bone back in the coals. + </p> + <p> + “What did you see?” I asked, laughing. + </p> + <p> + “Be silent!” he whispered. “I made out horrible signs.” + </p> + <p> + He again took out the bone and began examining it all over, all the time + whispering prayers and making strange movements. In a very solemn quiet + voice he began his predictions. + </p> + <p> + “Death in the form of a tall white man with red hair will stand behind you + and will watch you long and close. You will feel it and wait but Death + will withdraw. . . . Another white man will become your friend. . . . + Before the fourth day you will lose your acquaintances. They will die by a + long knife. I already see them being eaten by the dogs. Beware of the man + with a head like a saddle. He will strive for your death.” + </p> + <p> + For a long time after the fortune had been told we sat smoking and + drinking tea but still the old fellow looked at me only with fear. Through + my brain flashed the thought that thus must his companions in prison look + at one who is condemned to death. + </p> + <p> + The next morning we left the fortune teller before the sun was up, and, + when we had made about fifteen miles, hove in sight of Van Kure. I found + Colonel Kazagrandi at his headquarters. He was a man of good family, an + experienced engineer and a splendid officer, who had distinguished himself + in the war at the defence of the island of Moon in the Baltic and + afterwards in the fight with the Bolsheviki on the Volga. Colonel + Kazagrandi offered me a bath in a real tub, which had its habitat in the + house of the president of the local Chamber of Commerce. As I was in this + house, a tall young captain entered. He had long curly red hair and an + unusually white face, though heavy and stolid, with large, steel-cold eyes + and with beautiful, tender, almost girlish lips. But in his eyes there was + such cold cruelty that it was quite unpleasant to look at his otherwise + fine face. When he left the room, our host told me that he was Captain + Veseloffsky, the adjutant of General Rezukhin, who was fighting against + the Bolsheviki in the north of Mongolia. They had just that day arrived + for a conference with Baron Ungern. + </p> + <p> + After luncheon Colonel Kazagrandi invited me to his yurta and began + discussing events in western Mongolia, where the situation had become very + tense. + </p> + <p> + “Do you know Dr. Gay?” Kazagrandi asked me. “You know he helped me to form + my detachment but Urga accuses him of being the agent of the Soviets.” + </p> + <p> + I made all the defences I could for Gay. He had helped me and had been + exonerated by Kolchak. + </p> + <p> + “Yes, yes, and I justified Gay in such a manner,” said the Colonel, “but + Rezukhin, who has just arrived today, has brought letters of Gay’s to the + Bolsheviki which were seized in transit. By order of Baron Ungern, Gay and + his family have today been sent to the headquarters of Rezukhin and I fear + that they will not reach this destination.” + </p> + <p> + “Why?” I asked. + </p> + <p> + “They will be executed on the road!” answered Colonel Kazagrandi. + </p> + <p> + “What are we to do?” I responded. “Gay cannot be a Bolshevik, because he + is too well educated and too clever for it.” + </p> + <p> + “I don’t know; I don’t know!” murmured the Colonel with a despondent + gesture. “Try to speak with Rezukhin.” + </p> + <p> + I decided to proceed at once to Rezukhin but just then Colonel Philipoff + entered and began talking about the errors being made in the training of + the soldiers. When I had donned my coat, another man came in. He was a + small sized officer with an old green Cossack cap with a visor, a torn + grey Mongol overcoat and with his right hand in a black sling tied around + his neck. It was General Rezukhin, to whom I was at once introduced. + During the conversation the General very politely and very skilfully + inquired about the lives of Philipoff and myself during the last three + years, joking and laughing with discretion and modesty. When he soon took + his leave, I availed myself of the chance and went out with him. + </p> + <p> + He listened very attentively and politely to me and afterwards, in his + quiet voice, said: + </p> + <p> + “Dr. Gay is the agent of the Soviets, disguised as a White in order the + better to see, hear and know everything. We are surrounded by our enemies. + The Russian people are demoralized and will undertake any treachery for + money. Such is Gay. Anyway, what is the use of discussing him further? He + and his family are no longer alive. Today my men cut them to pieces five + kilometres from here.” + </p> + <p> + In consternation and fear I looked at the face of this small, dapper man + with such soft voice and courteous manners. In his eyes I read such hate + and tenacity that I understood at once the trembling respect of all the + officers whom I had seen in his presence. Afterwards in Urga I learned + more of this General Rezukhin distinguished by his absolute bravery and + boundless cruelty. He was the watchdog of Baron Ungern, ready to throw + himself into the fire and to spring at the throat of anyone his master + might indicate. + </p> + <p> + Only four days then had elapsed before “my acquaintances” died “by a long + knife,” so that one part of the prediction had been thus fulfilled. And + now I have to await Death’s threat to me. The delay was not long. Only two + days later the Chief of the Asiatic Division of Cavalry arrived—Baron + Ungern von Sternberg. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0033" id="link2HCH0033"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXXIII + </h2> + <h3> + “DEATH FROM THE WHITE MAN WILL STAND BEHIND YOU” + </h3> + <p> + “The terrible general, the Baron,” arrived quite unexpectedly, unnoticed + by the outposts of Colonel Kazagrandi. After a talk with Kazagrandi the + Baron invited Colonel N. N. Philipoff and me into his presence. Colonel + Kazagrandi brought the word to me. I wanted to go at once but was detained + about half an hour by the Colonel, who then sped me with the words: + </p> + <p> + “Now God help you! Go!” + </p> + <p> + It was a strange parting message, not reassuring and quite enigmatical. I + took my Mauser and also hid in the cuff of my coat my cyanide of + potassium. The Baron was quartered in the yurta of the military doctor. + When I entered the court, Captain Veseloffsky came up to me. He had a + Cossack sword and a revolver without its holster beneath his girdle. He + went into the yurta to report my arrival. + </p> + <p> + “Come in,” he said, as he emerged from the tent. + </p> + <p> + At the entrance my eyes were struck with the sight of a pool of blood that + had not yet had time to drain down into the ground—an ominous + greeting that seemed to carry the very voice of one just gone before me. I + knocked. + </p> + <p> + “Come in!” was the answer in a high tenor. As I passed the threshold, a + figure in a red silk Mongolian coat rushed at me with the spring of a + tiger, grabbed and shook my hand as though in flight across my path and + then fell prone on the bed at the side of the tent. + </p> + <p> + “Tell me who you are! Hereabouts are many spies and agitators,” he cried + out in an hysterical voice, as he fixed his eyes upon me. In one moment I + perceived his appearance and psychology. A small head on wide shoulders; + blonde hair in disorder; a reddish bristling moustache; a skinny, + exhausted face, like those on the old Byzantine ikons. Then everything + else faded from view save a big, protruding forehead overhanging steely + sharp eyes. These eyes were fixed upon me like those of an animal from a + cave. My observations lasted for but a flash but I understood that before + me was a very dangerous man ready for an instant spring into irrevocable + action. Though the danger was evident, I felt the deepest offence. + </p> + <p> + “Sit down,” he snapped out in a hissing voice, as he pointed to a chair + and impatiently pulled at his moustache. I felt my anger rising through my + whole body and I said to him without taking the chair: + </p> + <p> + “You have allowed yourself to offend me, Baron. My name is well enough + known so that you cannot thus indulge yourself in such epithets. You can + do with me as you wish, because force is on your side, but you cannot + compel me to speak with one who gives me offence.” + </p> + <p> + At these words of mine he swung his feet down off the bed and with evident + astonishment began to survey me, holding his breath and pulling still at + his moustache. Retaining my exterior calmness, I began to glance + indifferently around the yurta, and only then I noticed General Rezukhin. + I bowed to him and received his silent acknowledgment. After that I swung + my glance back to the Baron, who sat with bowed head and closed eyes, from + time to time rubbing his brow and mumbling to himself. + </p> + <p> + Suddenly he stood up and sharply said, looking past and over me: + </p> + <p> + “Go out! There is no need of more. . . .” + </p> + <p> + I swung round and saw Captain Veseloffsky with his white, cold face. I had + not heard him enter. He did a formal “about face” and passed out of the + door. + </p> + <p> + “‘Death from the white man’ has stood behind me,” I thought; “but has it + quite left me?” + </p> + <p> + The Baron stood thinking for some time and then began to speak in jumbled, + unfinished phrases. + </p> + <p> + “I ask your pardon. . . . You must understand there are so many traitors! + Honest men have disappeared. I cannot trust anybody. All names are false + and assumed; documents are counterfeited. Eyes and words deceive. . . . + All is demoralized, insulted by Bolshevism. I just ordered Colonel + Philipoff cut down, he who called himself the representative of the + Russian White Organization. In the lining of his garments were found two + secret Bolshevik codes. . . . When my officer flourished his sword over + him, he exclaimed: ‘Why do you kill me, Tavarische?’ I cannot trust + anybody. . . .” + </p> + <p> + He was silent and I also held my peace. + </p> + <p> + “I beg your pardon!” he began anew. “I offended you; but I am not simply a + man, I am a leader of great forces and have in my head so much care, + sorrow and woe!” + </p> + <p> + In his voice I felt there was mingled despair and sincerity. He frankly + put out his hand to me. Again silence. At last I answered: + </p> + <p> + “What do you order me to do now, for I have neither counterfeit nor real + documents? But many of your officers know me and in Urga I can find many + who will testify that I could be neither agitator nor. . .” + </p> + <p> + “No need, no need!” interrupted the Baron. “All is clear, all is + understood! I was in your soul and I know all. It is the truth which + Hutuktu Narabanchi has written about you. What can I do for you?” + </p> + <p> + I explained how my friend and I had escaped from Soviet Russia in the + effort to reach our native land and how a group of Polish soldiers had + joined us in the hope of getting back to Poland; and I asked that help be + given us to reach the nearest port. + </p> + <p> + “With pleasure, with pleasure. . . . I will help you all,” he answered + excitedly. “I shall drive you to Urga in my motor car. Tomorrow we shall + start and there in Urga we shall talk about further arrangements.” + </p> + <p> + Taking my leave, I went out of the yurta. On arriving at my quarters, I + found Colonel Kazagrandi in great anxiety walking up and down my room. + </p> + <p> + “Thanks be to God!” he exclaimed and crossed himself. + </p> + <p> + His joy was very touching but at the same time I thought that the Colonel + could have taken much more active measures for the salvation of his guest, + if he had been so minded. The agitation of this day had tired me and made + me feel years older. When I looked in the mirror I was certain there were + more white hairs on my head. At night I could not sleep for the flashing + thoughts of the young, fine face of Colonel Philipoff, the pool of blood, + the cold eyes of Captain Veseloffsky, the sound of Baron Ungern’s voice + with its tones of despair and woe, until finally I sank into a heavy + stupor. I was awakened by Baron Ungern who came to ask pardon that he + could not take me in his motor car, because he was obliged to take Daichin + Van with him. But he informed me that he had left instructions to give me + his own white camel and two Cossacks as servants. I had no time to thank + him before he rushed out of my room. + </p> + <p> + Sleep then entirely deserted me, so I dressed and began smoking pipe after + pipe of tobacco, as I thought: “How much easier to fight the Bolsheviki on + the swamps of Seybi and to cross the snowy peaks of Ulan Taiga, where the + bad demons kill all the travelers they can! There everything was simple + and comprehensible, but here it is all a mad nightmare, a dark and + foreboding storm!” I felt some tragedy, some horror in every movement of + Baron Ungern, behind whom paced this silent, white-faced Veseloffsky and + Death. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0034" id="link2HCH0034"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXXIV + </h2> + <h3> + THE HORROR OF WAR! + </h3> + <p> + At dawn of the following morning they led up the splendid white camel for + me and we moved away. My company consisted of the two Cossacks, two Mongol + soldiers and one Lama with two pack camels carrying the tent and food. I + still apprehended that the Baron had it in mind not to dispose of me + before my friends there in Van Kure but to prepare this journey for me + under the guise of which it would be so easy to do away with me by the + road. A bullet in the back and all would be finished. Consequently I was + momentarily ready to draw my revolver and defend myself. I took care all + the time to have the Cossacks either ahead of me or at the side. About + noon we heard the distant honk of a motor car and soon saw Baron Ungern + whizzing by us at full speed. With him were two adjutants and Prince + Daichin Van. The Baron greeted me very kindly and shouted: + </p> + <p> + “Shall see you again in Urga!” + </p> + <p> + “Ah!” I thought, “evidently I shall reach Urga. So I can be at ease during + my trip, and in Urga I have many friends beside the presence there of the + bold Polish soldiers whom I had worked with in Uliassutai and who had + outdistanced me in this journey.” + </p> + <p> + After the meeting with the Baron my Cossacks became very attentive to me + and sought to distract me with stories. They told me about their very + severe struggles with the Bolsheviki in Transbaikalia and Mongolia, about + the battle with the Chinese near Urga, about finding communistic passports + on several Chinese soldiers from Moscow, about the bravery of Baron Ungern + and how he would sit at the campfire smoking and drinking tea right on the + battle line without ever being touched by a bullet. At one fight + seventy-four bullets entered his overcoat, saddle and the boxes by his + side and again left him untouched. This is one of the reasons for his + great influence over the Mongols. They related how before the battle he + had made a reconnaissance in Urga with only one Cossack and on his way + back had killed a Chinese officer and two soldiers with his bamboo stick + or tashur; how he had no outfit save one change of linen and one extra + pair of boots; how he was always calm and jovial in battle and severe and + morose in the rare days of peace; and how he was everywhere his soldiers + were fighting. + </p> + <p> + I told them, in turn, of my escape from Siberia and with chatting thus the + day slipped by very quickly. Our camels trotted all the time, so that + instead of the ordinary eighteen to twenty miles per day we made nearly + fifty. My mount was the fastest of them all. He was a huge white animal + with a splendid thick mane and had been presented to Baron Ungern by some + Prince of Inner Mongolia with two black sables tied on the bridle. He was + a calm, strong, bold giant of the desert, on whose back I felt myself as + though perched on the tower of a building. Beyond the Orkhon River we came + across the first dead body of a Chinese soldier, which lay face up and + arms outstretched right in the middle of the road. When we had crossed the + Burgut Mountains, we entered the Tola River valley, farther up which Urga + is located. The road was strewn with the overcoats, shirts, boots, caps + and kettles which the Chinese had thrown away in their flight; and marked + by many of their dead. Further on the road crossed a morass, where on + either side lay great mounds of the dead bodies of men, horses and camels + with broken carts and military debris of every sort. Here the Tibetans of + Baron Ungern had cut up the escaping Chinese baggage transport; and it was + a strange and gloomy contrast to see the piles of dead besides the + effervescing awakening life of spring. In every pool wild ducks of + different kinds floated about; in the high grass the cranes performed + their weird dance of courtship; on the lakes great flocks of swans and + geese were swimming; through the swampy places like spots of light moved + the brilliantly colored pairs of the Mongolian sacred bird, the turpan or + “Lama goose”; on the higher dry places flocks of wild turkey gamboled and + fought as they fed; flocks of the salga partridge whistled by; while on + the mountain side not far away the wolves lay basking and turning in the + lazy warmth of the sun, whining and occasionally barking like playful + dogs. + </p> + <p> + Nature knows only life. Death is for her but an episode whose traces she + rubs out with sand and snow or ornaments with luxuriant greenery and + brightly colored bushes and flowers. What matters it to Nature if a mother + at Chefoo or on the banks of the Yangtse offers her bowl of rice with + burning incense at some shrine and prays for the return of her son that + has fallen unknown for all time on the plains along the Tola, where his + bones will dry beneath the rays of Nature’s dissipating fire and be + scattered by her winds over the sands of the prairie? It is splendid, this + indifference of Nature to death, and her greediness for life! + </p> + <p> + On the fourth day we made the shores of the Tola well after nightfall. We + could not find the regular ford and I forced my camel to enter the stream + in the attempt to make a crossing without guidance. Very fortunately I + found a shallow, though somewhat miry, place and we got over all right. + This is something to be thankful for in fording a river with a camel; + because, when your mount finds the water too deep, coming up around his + neck, he does not strike out and swim like a horse will do but just rolls + over on his side and floats, which is vastly inconvenient for his rider. + Down by the river we pegged our tent. + </p> + <p> + Fifteen miles further on we crossed a battlefield, where the third great + battle for the independence of Mongolia had been fought. Here the troops + of Baron Ungern clashed with six thousand Chinese moving down from Kiakhta + to the aid of Urga. The Chinese were completely defeated and four thousand + prisoners taken. However, these surrendered Chinese tried to escape during + the night. Baron Ungern sent the Transbaikal Cossacks and Tibetans in + pursuit of them and it was their work which we saw on this field of death. + There were still about fifteen hundred unburied and as many more interred, + according to the statements of our Cossacks, who had participated in this + battle. The killed showed terrible sword wounds; everywhere equipment and + other debris were scattered about. The Mongols with their herds moved away + from the neighborhood and their place was taken by the wolves which hid + behind every stone and in every ditch as we passed. Packs of dogs that had + become wild fought with the wolves over the prey. + </p> + <p> + At last we left this place of carnage to the cursed god of war. Soon we + approached a shallow, rapid stream, where the Mongols slipped from their + camels, took off their caps and began drinking. It was a sacred stream + which passed beside the abode of the Living Buddha. From this winding + valley we suddenly turned into another where a great mountain ridge + covered with dark, dense forest loomed up before us. + </p> + <p> + “Holy Bogdo-Ol!” exclaimed the Lama. “The abode of the Gods which guard + our Living Buddha!” + </p> + <p> + Bogdo-Ol is the huge knot which ties together here three mountain chains: + Gegyl from the southwest, Gangyn from the south, and Huntu from the north. + This mountain covered with virgin forest is the property of the Living + Buddha. The forests are full of nearly all the varieties of animals found + in Mongolia, but hunting is not allowed. Any Mongol violating this law is + condemned to death, while foreigners are deported. Crossing the Bogdo-Ol + is forbidden under penalty of death. This command was transgressed by only + one man, Baron Ungern, who crossed the mountain with fifty Cossacks, + penetrated to the palace of the Living Buddha, where the Pontiff of Urga + was being held under arrest by the Chinese, and stole him. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0035" id="link2HCH0035"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXXV + </h2> + <h3> + IN THE CITY OF LIVING GODS, OF 30,000 BUDDHAS AND 60,000 MONKS + </h3> + <p> + At last before our eyes the abode of the Living Buddha! At the foot of + Bogdo-Ol behind white walls rose a white Tibetan building covered with + greenish-blue tiles that glittered under the sunshine. It was richly set + among groves of trees dotted here and there with the fantastic roofs of + shrines and small palaces, while further from the mountain it was + connected by a long wooden bridge across the Tola with the city of monks, + sacred and revered throughout all the East as Ta Kure or Urga. Here + besides the Living Buddha live whole throngs of secondary miracle workers, + prophets, sorcerers and wonderful doctors. All these people have divine + origin and are honored as living gods. At the left on the high plateau + stands an old monastery with a huge, dark red tower, which is known as the + “Temple Lamas City,” containing a gigantic bronze gilded statue of Buddha + sitting on the golden flower of the lotus; tens of smaller temples, + shrines, obo, open altars, towers for astrology and the grey city of the + Lamas consisting of single-storied houses and yurtas, where about 60,000 + monks of all ages and ranks dwell; schools, sacred archives and libraries, + the houses of Bandi and the inns for the honored guests from China, Tibet, + and the lands of the Buriat and Kalmuck. + </p> + <p> + Down below the monastery is the foreign settlement where the Russian, + foreign and richest Chinese merchants live and where the multi-colored and + crowded oriental bazaar carries forward its bustling life. A kilometre + away the greyish enclosure of Maimachen surrounds the remaining Chinese + trading establishments, while farther on one sees a long row of Russian + private houses, a hospital, church, prison and, last of all, the awkward + four-storied red brick building that was formerly the Russian Consulate. + </p> + <p> + We were already within a short distance of the monastery, when I noticed + several Mongol soldiers in the mouth of a ravine nearby, dragging back and + concealing in the ravine three dead bodies. + </p> + <p> + “What are they doing?” I asked. + </p> + <p> + The Cossacks only smiled without answering. Suddenly they straightened up + with a sharp salute. Out of the ravine came a small, stocky Mongolian pony + with a short man in the saddle. As he passed us, I noticed the epaulets of + a colonel and the green cap with a visor. He examined me with cold, + colorless eyes from under dense brows. As he went on ahead, he took off + his cap and wiped the perspiration from his bald head. My eyes were struck + by the strange undulating line of his skull. It was the man “with the head + like a saddle,” against whom I had been warned by the old fortune teller + at the last ourton outside Van Kure! + </p> + <p> + “Who is this officer?” I inquired. + </p> + <p> + Although he was already quite a distance in front of us, the Cossacks + whispered: “Colonel Sepailoff, Commandant of Urga City.” + </p> + <p> + Colonel Sepailoff, the darkest person on the canvas of Mongolian events! + Formerly a mechanician, afterwards a gendarme, he had gained quick + promotion under the Czar’s regime. He was always nervously jerking and + wriggling his body and talking ceaselessly, making most unattractive + sounds in his throat and sputtering with saliva all over his lips, his + whole face often contracted with spasms. He was mad and Baron Ungern twice + appointed a commission of surgeons to examine him and ordered him to rest + in the hope he could rid the man of his evil genius. Undoubtedly Sepailoff + was a sadist. I heard afterwards that he himself executed the condemned + people, joking and singing as he did his work. Dark, terrifying tales were + current about him in Urga. He was a bloodhound, fastening his victims with + the jaws of death. All the glory of the cruelty of Baron Ungern belonged + to Sepailoff. Afterwards Baron Ungern once told me in Urga that this + Sepailoff annoyed him and that Sepailoff could kill him just as well as + others. Baron Ungern feared Sepailoff, not as a man, but dominated by his + own superstition, because Sepailoff had found in Transbaikalia a witch + doctor who predicted the death of the Baron if he dismissed Sepailoff. + Sepailoff knew no pardon for Bolshevik nor for any one connected with the + Bolsheviki in any way. The reason for his vengeful spirit was that the + Bolsheviki had tortured him in prison and, after his escape, had killed + all his family. He was now taking his revenge. + </p> + <p> + I put up with a Russian firm and was at once visited by my associates from + Uliassutai, who greeted me with great joy because they had been much + exercised about the events in Van Kure and Zain Shabi. When I had bathed + and spruced up, I went out with them on the street. We entered the bazaar. + The whole market was crowded. To the lively colored groups of men buying, + selling and shouting their wares, the bright streamers of Chinese cloth, + the strings of pearls, the earrings and bracelets gave an air of endless + festivity; while on another side buyers were feeling of live sheep to see + whether they were fat or not, the butcher was cutting great pieces of + mutton from the hanging carcasses and everywhere these sons of the plain + were joking and jesting. The Mongolian women in their huge coiffures and + heavy silver caps like saucers on their heads were admiring the variegated + silk ribbons and long chains of coral beads; an imposing big Mongol + attentively examined a small herd of splendid horses and bargained with + the Mongol zahachine or owner of the horses; a skinny, quick, black + Tibetan, who had come to Urga to pray to the Living Buddha or, maybe, with + a secret message from the other “God” in Lhasa, squatted and bargained for + an image of the Lotus Buddha carved in agate; in another corner a big + crowd of Mongols and Buriats had collected and surrounded a Chinese + merchant selling finely painted snuff-bottles of glass, crystal, + porcelain, amethyst, jade, agate and nephrite, for one of which made of a + greenish milky nephrite with regular brown veins running through it and + carved with a dragon winding itself around a bevy of young damsels the + merchant was demanding of his Mongol inquirers ten young oxen; and + everywhere Buriats in their long red coats and small red caps embroidered + with gold helped the Tartars in black overcoats and black velvet caps on + the back of their heads to weave the pattern of this Oriental human + tapestry. Lamas formed the common background for it all, as they wandered + about in their yellow and red robes, with capes picturesquely thrown over + their shoulders and caps of many forms, some like yellow mushrooms, others + like the red Phrygian bonnets or old Greek helmets in red. They mingled + with the crowd, chatting serenely and counting their rosaries, telling + fortunes for those who would hear but chiefly searching out the rich + Mongols whom they could cure or exploit by fortune telling, predictions or + other mysteries of a city of 60,000 Lamas. Simultaneously religious and + political espionage was being carried out. Just at this time many Mongols + were arriving from Inner Mongolia and they were continuously surrounded by + an invisible but numerous network of watching Lamas. Over the buildings + around floated the Russian, Chinese and Mongolian national flags with a + single one of the Stars and Stripes above a small shop in the market; + while over the nearby tents and yurtas streamed the ribbons, the squares, + the circles and triangles of the princes and private persons afflicted or + dying from smallpox and leprosy. All were mingled and mixed in one bright + mass strongly lighted by the sun. Occasionally one saw the soldiers of + Baron Ungern rushing about in long blue coats; Mongols and Tibetans in red + coats with yellow epaulets bearing the swastika of Jenghiz Khan and the + initials of the Living Buddha; and Chinese soldiers from their detachment + in the Mongolian army. After the defeat of the Chinese army two thousand + of these braves petitioned the Living Buddha to enlist them in his + legions, swearing fealty and faith to him. They were accepted and formed + into two regiments bearing the old Chinese silver dragons on their caps + and shoulders. + </p> + <p> + As we crossed this market, from around a corner came a big motor car with + the roar of a siren. There was Baron Ungern in the yellow silk Mongolian + coat with a blue girdle. He was going very fast but recognized me at once, + stopping and getting out to invite me to go with him to his yurta. The + Baron lived in a small, simply arranged yurta, set up in the courtyard of + a Chinese hong. He had his headquarters in two other yurtas nearby, while + his servants occupied one of the Chinese fang-tzu. When I reminded him of + his promise to help me to reach the open ports, the General looked at me + with his bright eyes and spoke in French: + </p> + <p> + “My work here is coming to an end. In nine days I shall begin the war with + the Bolsheviki and shall go into the Transbaikal. I beg that you will + spend this time here. For many years I have lived without civilized + society. I am alone with my thoughts and I would like to have you know + them, speaking with me not as the ‘bloody mad Baron,’ as my enemies call + me, nor as the ‘severe grandfather,’ which my officers and soldiers call + me, but as an ordinary man who has sought much and has suffered even + more.” + </p> + <p> + The Baron reflected for some minutes and then continued: + </p> + <p> + “I have thought about the further trip of your group and I shall arrange + everything for you, but I ask you to remain here these nine days.” + </p> + <p> + What was I to do? I agreed. The Baron shook my hand warmly and ordered + tea. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0036" id="link2HCH0036"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXXVI + </h2> + <h3> + A SON OF CRUSADERS AND PRIVATEERS + </h3> + <p> + “Tell me about yourself and your trip,” he urged. In response I related + all that I thought would interest him and he appeared quite excited over + my tale. + </p> + <p> + “Now I shall tell you about myself, who and what I am! My name is + surrounded with such hate and fear that no one can judge what is the truth + and what is false, what is history and what myth. Some time you will write + about it, remembering your trip through Mongolia and your sojourn at the + yurta of the ‘bloody General.’” + </p> + <p> + He shut his eyes, smoking as he spoke, and tumbling out his sentences + without finishing them as though some one would prevent him from phrasing + them. + </p> + <p> + “The family of Ungern von Sternberg is an old family, a mixture of Germans + with Hungarians—Huns from the time of Attila. My warlike ancestors + took part in all the European struggles. They participated in the Crusades + and one Ungern was killed under the walls of Jerusalem, fighting under + Richard Coeur de Lion. Even the tragic Crusade of the Children was marked + by the death of Ralph Ungern, eleven years old. When the boldest warriors + of the country were despatched to the eastern border of the German Empire + against the Slavs in the twelfth century, my ancestor Arthur was among + them, Baron Halsa Ungern Sternberg. Here these border knights formed the + order of Monk Knights or Teutons, which with fire and sword spread + Christianity among the pagan Lithuanians, Esthonians, Latvians and Slavs. + Since then the Teuton Order of Knights has always had among its members + representatives of our family. When the Teuton Order perished in the + Grunwald under the swords of the Polish and Lithuanian troops, two Barons + Ungern von Sternberg were killed there. Our family was warlike and given + to mysticism and asceticism. + </p> + <p> + “During the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries several Barons von Ungern + had their castles in the lands of Latvia and Esthonia. Many legends and + tales lived after them. Heinrich Ungern von Sternberg, called ‘Ax,’ was a + wandering knight. The tournaments of France, England, Spain and Italy knew + his name and lance, which filled the hearts of his opponents with fear. He + fell at Cadiz ‘neath the sword of a knight who cleft both his helmet and + his skull. Baron Ralph Ungern was a brigand knight between Riga and Reval. + Baron Peter Ungern had his castle on the island of Dago in the Baltic Sea, + where as a privateer he ruled the merchantmen of his day. + </p> + <p> + “In the beginning of the eighteenth century there was also a well-known + Baron Wilhelm Ungern, who was referred to as the ‘brother of Satan’ + because he was an alchemist. My grandfather was a privateer in the Indian + Ocean, taking his tribute from the English traders whose warships could + not catch him for several years. At last he was captured and handed to the + Russian Consul, who transported him to Russia where he was sentenced to + deportation to the Transbaikal. I am also a naval officer but the + Russo-Japanese War forced me to leave my regular profession to join and + fight with the Zabaikal Cossacks. I have spent all my life in war or in + the study and learning of Buddhism. My grandfather brought Buddhism to us + from India and my father and I accepted and professed it. In Transbaikalia + I tried to form the order of Military Buddhists for an uncompromising + fight against the depravity of revolution.” + </p> + <p> + He fell into silence and began drinking cup after cup of tea as strong and + black as coffee. + </p> + <p> + “Depravity of revolution! . . . Has anyone ever thought of it besides the + French philosopher, Bergson, and the most learned Tashi Lama in Tibet?” + </p> + <p> + The grandson of the privateer, quoting scientific theories, works, the + names of scientists and writers, the Holy Bible and Buddhist books, mixing + together French, German, Russian and English, continued: + </p> + <p> + “In the Buddhistic and ancient Christian books we read stern predictions + about the time when the war between the good and evil spirits must begin. + Then there must come the unknown ‘Curse’ which will conquer the world, + blot out culture, kill morality and destroy all the people. Its weapon is + revolution. During every revolution the previously experienced + intellect-creator will be replaced by the new rough force of the + destroyer. He will place and hold in the first rank the lower instincts + and desires. Man will be farther removed from the divine and the + spiritual. The Great War proved that humanity must progress upward toward + higher ideals; but then appeared that Curse which was seen and felt by + Christ, the Apostle John, Buddha, the first Christian martyrs, Dante, + Leonardo da Vinci, Goethe and Dostoyevsky. It appeared, turned back the + wheel of progress and blocked our road to the Divinity. Revolution is an + infectious disease and Europe making the treaty with Moscow deceived + itself and the other parts of the world. The Great Spirit put at the + threshold of our lives Karma, who knows neither anger nor pardon. He will + reckon the account, whose total will be famine, destruction, the death of + culture, of glory, of honor and of spirit, the death of states and the + death of peoples. I see already this horror, this dark, mad destruction of + humanity.” + </p> + <p> + The door of the yurta suddenly swung open and an adjutant snapped into a + position of attention and salute. + </p> + <p> + “Why do you enter a room by force?” the General exclaimed in anger. + </p> + <p> + “Your Excellency, our outpost on the border has caught a Bolshevik + reconnaissance party and brought them here.” + </p> + <p> + The Baron arose. His eyes sparkled and his face contracted with spasms. + </p> + <p> + “Bring them in front of my yurta!” he ordered. + </p> + <p> + All was forgotten—the inspired speech, the penetrating voice—all + were sunk in the austere order of the severe commander. The Baron put on + his cap, caught up the bamboo tashur which he always carried with him and + rushed from the yurta. I followed him out. There in front of the yurta + stood six Red soldiers surrounded by the Cossacks. + </p> + <p> + The Baron stopped and glared sharply at them for several minutes. In his + face one could see the strong play of his thoughts. Afterwards he turned + away from them, sat down on the doorstep of the Chinese house and for a + long time was buried in thought. Then he rose, walked over to them and, + with an evident show of decisiveness in his movements, touched all the + prisoners on the shoulder with his tashur and said: “You to the left and + you to the right!” as he divided the squad into two sections, four on the + right and two on the left. + </p> + <p> + “Search those two! They must be commissars!” commanded the Baron and, + turning to the other four, asked: “Are you peasants mobilized by the + Bolsheviki?” + </p> + <p> + “Just so, Your Excellency!” cried the frightened soldiers. + </p> + <p> + “Go to the Commandant and tell him that I have ordered you to be enlisted + in my troops!” + </p> + <p> + On the two to the left they found passports of Commissars of the Communist + Political Department. The General knitted his brows and slowly pronounced + the following: + </p> + <p> + “Beat them to death with sticks!” + </p> + <p> + He turned and entered the yurta. After this our conversation did not flow + readily and so I left the Baron to himself. + </p> + <p> + After dinner in the Russian firm where I was staying some of Ungern’s + officers came in. We were chatting animatedly when suddenly we heard the + horn of an automobile, which instantly threw the officers into silence. + </p> + <p> + “The General is passing somewhere near,” one of them remarked in a + strangely altered voice. + </p> + <p> + Our interrupted conversation was soon resumed but not for long. The clerk + of the firm came running into the room and exclaimed: “The Baron!” + </p> + <p> + He entered the door but stopped on the threshold. The lamps had not yet + been lighted and it was getting dark inside, but the Baron instantly + recognized us all, approached and kissed the hand of the hostess, greeted + everyone very cordially and, accepting the cup of tea offered him, drew up + to the table to drink. Soon he spoke: + </p> + <p> + “I want to steal your guest,” he said to the hostess and then, turning to + me, asked: “Do you want to go for a motor ride? I shall show you the city + and the environs.” + </p> + <p> + Donning my coat, I followed my established custom and slipped my revolver + into it, at which the Baron laughed. + </p> + <p> + “Leave that trash behind! Here you are in safety. Besides you must + remember the prediction of Narabanchi Hutuktu that Fortune will ever be + with you.” + </p> + <p> + “All right,” I answered, also with a laugh. “I remember very well this + prediction. Only I do not know what the Hutuktu thinks ‘Fortune’ means for + me. Maybe it is death like the rest after my hard, long trip, and I must + confess that I prefer to travel farther and am not ready to die.” + </p> + <p> + We went out to the gate where the big Fiat stood with its intruding great + lights. The chauffeur officer sat at the wheel like a statue and remained + at salute all the time we were entering and seating ourselves. + </p> + <p> + “To the wireless station!” commanded the Baron. + </p> + <p> + We veritably leapt forward. The city swarmed, as earlier, with the + Oriental throng, but its appearance now was even more strange and + miraculous. In among the noisy crowd Mongol, Buriat and Tibetan riders + threaded swiftly; caravans of camels solemnly raised their heads as we + passed; the wooden wheels of the Mongol carts screamed in pain; and all + was illumined by splendid great arc lights from the electric station which + Baron Ungern had ordered erected immediately after the capture of Urga, + together with a telephone system and wireless station. He also ordered his + men to clean and disinfect the city which had probably not felt the broom + since the days of Jenghiz Khan. He arranged an auto-bus traffic between + different parts of the city; built bridges over the Tola and Orkhon; + published a newspaper; arranged a veterinary laboratory and hospitals; + re-opened the schools; protected commerce, mercilessly hanging Russian and + Mongolian soldiers for pillaging Chinese firms. + </p> + <p> + In one of these cases his Commandant arrested two Cossacks and a Mongol + soldier who had stolen brandy from one of the Chinese shops and brought + them before him. He immediately bundled them all into his car, drove off + to the shop, delivered the brandy back to the proprietor and as promptly + ordered the Mongol to hang one of the Russians to the big gate of the + compound. With this one swung he commanded: “Now hang the other!” and this + had only just been accomplished when he turned to the Commandant and + ordered him to hang the Mongol beside the other two. That seemed + expeditious and just enough until the Chinese proprietor came in dire + distress to the Baron and plead with him: + </p> + <p> + “General Baron! General Baron! Please take those men down from my gateway, + for no one will enter my shop!” + </p> + <p> + After the commercial quarter was flashed past our eyes, we entered the + Russian settlement across a small river. Several Russian soldiers and four + very spruce-looking Mongolian women stood on the bridge as we passed. The + soldiers snapped to salute like immobile statues and fixed their eyes on + the severe face of their Commander. The women first began to run and shift + about and then, infected by the discipline and order of events, swung + their hands up to salute and stood as immobile as their northern swains. + The Baron looked at me and laughed: + </p> + <p> + “You see the discipline! Even the Mongolian women salute me.” + </p> + <p> + Soon we were out on the plain with the car going like an arrow, with the + wind whistling and tossing the folds of our coats and caps. But Baron + Ungern, sitting with closed eyes, repeated: “Faster! Faster!” For a long + time we were both silent. + </p> + <p> + “And yesterday I beat my adjutant for rushing into my yurta and + interrupting my story,” he said. + </p> + <p> + “You can finish it now,” I answered. + </p> + <p> + “And are you not bored by it? Well, there isn’t much left and this happens + to be the most interesting. I was telling you that I wanted to found an + order of military Buddhists in Russia. For what? For the protection of the + processes of evolution of humanity and for the struggle against + revolution, because I am certain that evolution leads to the Divinity and + revolution to bestiality. But I worked in Russia! In Russia, where the + peasants are rough, untutored, wild and constantly angry, hating everybody + and everything without understanding why. They are suspicious and + materialistic, having no sacred ideals. Russian intelligents live among + imaginary ideals without realities. They have a strong capacity for + criticising everything but they lack creative power. Also they have no + will power, only the capacity for talking and talking. With the peasants, + they cannot like anything or anybody. Their love and feelings are + imaginary. Their thoughts and sentiments pass without trace like futile + words. My companions, therefore, soon began to violate the regulations of + the Order. Then I introduced the condition of celibacy, the entire + negation of woman, of the comforts of life, of superfluities, according to + the teachings of the Yellow Faith; and, in order that the Russian might be + able to live down his physical nature, I introduced the limitless use of + alcohol, hasheesh and opium. Now for alcohol I hang my officers and + soldiers; then we drank to the ‘white fever,’ delirium tremens. I could + not organize the Order but I gathered round me and developed three hundred + men wholly bold and entirely ferocious. Afterward they were heroes in the + war with Germany and later in the fight against the Bolsheviki, but now + only a few remain.” + </p> + <p> + “The wireless, Excellency!” reported the chauffeur. + </p> + <p> + “Turn in there!” ordered the General. + </p> + <p> + On the top of a flat hill stood the big, powerful radio station which had + been partially destroyed by the retreating Chinese but reconstructed by + the engineers of Baron Ungern. The General perused the telegrams and + handed them to me. They were from Moscow, Chita, Vladivostok and Peking. + On a separate yellow sheet were the code messages, which the Baron slipped + into his pocket as he said to me: + </p> + <p> + “They are from my agents, who are stationed in Chita, Irkutsk, Harbin and + Vladivostok. They are all Jews, very skilled and very bold men, friends of + mine all. I have also one Jewish officer, Vulfovitch, who commands my + right flank. He is as ferocious as Satan but clever and brave. . . . Now + we shall fly into space.” + </p> + <p> + Once more we rushed away, sinking into the darkness of night. It was a + wild ride. The car bounded over small stones and ditches, even taking + narrow streamlets, as the skilled chauffeur only seemed to guide it round + the larger rocks. On the plain, as we sped by, I noticed several times + small bright flashes of fire which lasted but for a second and then were + extinguished. + </p> + <p> + “The eyes of wolves,” smiled my companion. “We have fed them to satiety + from the flesh of ourselves and our enemies!” he quietly interpolated, as + he turned to continue his confession of faith. + </p> + <p> + “During the War we saw the gradual corruption of the Russian army and + foresaw the treachery of Russia to the Allies as well as the approaching + danger of revolution. To counteract this latter a plan was formed to join + together all the Mongolian peoples which had not forgotten their ancient + faiths and customs into one Asiatic State, consisting of autonomous tribal + units, under the moral and legislative leadership of China, the country of + loftiest and most ancient culture. Into this State must come the Chinese, + Mongols, Tibetans, Afghans, the Mongol tribes of Turkestan, Tartars, + Buriats, Kirghiz and Kalmucks. This State must be strong, physically and + morally, and must erect a barrier against revolution and carefully + preserve its own spirit, philosophy and individual policy. If humanity, + mad and corrupted, continues to threaten the Divine Spirit in mankind, to + spread blood and to obstruct moral development, the Asiatic State must + terminate this movement decisively and establish a permanent, firm peace. + This propaganda even during the War made splendid progress among the + Turkomans, Kirghiz, Buriats and Mongols. . . . ‘Stop!’ suddenly shouted + the Baron.” + </p> + <p> + The car pulled up with a jerk. The General jumped out and called me to + follow. We started walking over the prairie and the Baron kept bending + down all the time as though he were looking for something on the ground. + </p> + <p> + “Ah!” he murmured at last, “He has gone away. . . .” + </p> + <p> + I looked at him in amazement. + </p> + <p> + “A rich Mongol formerly had his yurta here. He was the outfitter for the + Russian merchant, Noskoff. Noskoff was a ferocious man as shown by the + name the Mongols gave him—‘Satan.’ He used to have his Mongol + debtors beaten or imprisoned through the instrumentality of the Chinese + authorities. He ruined this Mongol, who lost everything and escaped to a + place thirty miles away; but Noskoff found him there, took all that he had + left of cattle and horses and left the Mongol and his family to die of + hunger. When I captured Urga, this Mongol appeared and brought with him + thirty other Mongol families similarly ruined by Noskoff. They demanded + his death. . . . So I hung ‘Satan’ . . .” + </p> + <p> + Anew the motor car was rushing along, sweeping a great circle on the + prairie, and anew Baron Ungern with his sharp, nervous voice carried his + thoughts round the whole circumference of Asian life. + </p> + <p> + “Russia turned traitor to France, England and America, signed the + Brest-Litovsk Treaty and ushered in a reign of chaos. We then decided to + mobilize Asia against Germany. Our envoys penetrated Mongolia, Tibet, + Turkestan and China. At this time the Bolsheviki began to kill all the + Russian officers and we were forced to open civil war against them, giving + up our Pan-Asiatic plans; but we hope later to awake all Asia and with + their help to bring peace and God back to earth. I want to feel that I + have helped this idea by the liberation of Mongolia.” + </p> + <p> + He became silent and thought for a moment. + </p> + <p> + “But some of my associates in the movement do not like me because of my + atrocities and severity,” he remarked in a sad voice. “They cannot + understand as yet that we are not fighting a political party but a sect of + murderers of all contemporary spiritual culture. Why do the Italians + execute the ‘Black Hand’ gang? Why are the Americans electrocuting + anarchistic bomb throwers? and I am not allowed to rid the world of those + who would kill the soul of the people? I, a Teuton, descendant of + crusaders and privateers, I recognize only death for murderers! . . . + Return!” he commanded the chauffeur. + </p> + <p> + An hour and a half later we saw the electric lights of Urga. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0037" id="link2HCH0037"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXXVII + </h2> + <h3> + THE CAMP OF MARTYRS + </h3> + <p> + Near the entrance to the town, a motor car stood before a small house. + </p> + <p> + “What does that mean?” exclaimed the Baron. “Go over there!” + </p> + <p> + Our car drew up beside the other. The house door opened sharply, several + officers rushed out and tried to hide. + </p> + <p> + “Stand!” commanded the General. “Go back inside.” They obeyed and he + entered after them, leaning on his tashur. As the door remained open, I + could see and hear everything. + </p> + <p> + “Woe to them!” whispered the chauffeur. “Our officers knew that the Baron + had gone out of the town with me, which means always a long journey, and + must have decided to have a good time. He will order them beaten to death + with sticks.” + </p> + <p> + I could see the end of the table covered with bottles and tinned things. + At the side two young women were seated, who sprang up at the appearance + of the General. I could hear the hoarse voice of Baron Ungern pronouncing + sharp, short, stern phrases. + </p> + <p> + “Your native land is perishing. . . . The shame of it is upon all you + Russians . . . and you cannot understand it . . . nor feel it. . . . You + need wine and women. . . . Scoundrels! Brutes! . . . One hundred fifty + tashur for every man of you.” + </p> + <p> + The voice fell to a whisper. + </p> + <p> + “And you, Mesdames, do you not realize the ruin of your people? No? For + you it is of no moment. And have you no feeling for your husbands at the + front who may even now be killed? You are not women. . . . I honor woman, + who feels more deeply and strongly than man; but you are not women! . . . + Listen to me, Mesdames. Once more and I will hang you. . . .” + </p> + <p> + He came back to the car and himself sounded the horn several times. + Immediately Mongol horsemen galloped up. + </p> + <p> + “Take these men to the Commandant. I will send my orders later.” + </p> + <p> + On the way to the Baron’s yurta we were silent. He was excited and + breathed heavily, lighting cigarette after cigarette and throwing them + aside after but a single puff or two. + </p> + <p> + “Take supper with me,” he proposed. + </p> + <p> + He also invited his Chief of Staff, a very retiring, oppressed but + splendidly educated man. The servants spread a Chinese hot course for us + followed by cold meat and fruit compote from California with the + inevitable tea. We ate with chopsticks. The Baron was greatly distraught. + </p> + <p> + Very cautiously I began speaking of the offending officers and tried to + justify their actions by the extremely trying circumstances under which + they were living. + </p> + <p> + “They are rotten through and through, demoralized, sunk into the depths,” + murmured the General. + </p> + <p> + The Chief of Staff helped me out and at last the Baron directed him to + telephone the Commandant to release these gentlemen. + </p> + <p> + The following day I spent with my friends, walking a great deal about the + streets and watching their busy life. The great energy of the Baron + demanded constant nervous activity from himself and every one round him. + He was everywhere, seeing everything but never, interfering with the work + of his subordinate administrators. Every one was at work. + </p> + <p> + In the evening I was invited by the Chief of Staff to his quarters, where + I met many intelligent officers. I related again the story of my trip and + we were all chatting along animatedly when suddenly Colonel Sepailoff + entered, singing to himself. All the others at once became silent and one + by one under various pretexts they slipped out. He handed our host some + papers and, turning to us, said: + </p> + <p> + “I shall send you for supper a splendid fish pie and some hot tomato + soup.” + </p> + <p> + As he left, my host clasped his head in desperation and said: + </p> + <p> + “With such scum of the earth are we now forced after this revolution to + work!” + </p> + <p> + A few minutes later a soldier from Sepailoff brought us a tureen full of + soup and the fish pie. As the soldier bent over the table to set the + dishes down, the Chief motioned me with his eyes and slipped to me the + words: “Notice his face.” + </p> + <p> + When the man went out, my host sat attentively listening until the sounds + of the man’s steps ceased. + </p> + <p> + “He is Sepailoff’s executioner who hangs and strangles the unfortunate + condemned ones.” + </p> + <p> + Then, to my amazement, he began to pour out the soup on the ground beside + the brazier and, going out of the yurta, threw the pie over the fence. + </p> + <p> + “It is Sepailoff’s feast and, though it may be very tasty, it may also be + poison. In Sepailoff’s house it is dangerous to eat or drink anything.” + </p> + <p> + Distinctly oppressed by these doings, I returned to my house. My host was + not yet asleep and met me with a frightened look. My friends were also + there. + </p> + <p> + “God be thanked!” they all exclaimed. “Has nothing happened to you?” + </p> + <p> + “What is the matter?” I asked. + </p> + <p> + “You see,” began the host, “after your departure a soldier came from + Sepailoff and took your luggage, saying that you had sent him for it; but + we knew what it meant—that they would first search it and + afterwards. . . .” + </p> + <p> + I at once understood the danger. Sepailoff could place anything he wanted + in my luggage and afterwards accuse me. My old friend, the agronome, and I + started at once for Sepailoff’s, where I left him at the door while I went + in and was met by the same soldier who had brought the supper to us. + Sepailoff received me immediately. In answer to my protest he said that it + was a mistake and, asking me to wait for a moment, went out. I waited + five, ten, fifteen minutes but nobody came. I knocked on the door but no + one answered me. Then I decided to go to Baron Ungern and started for the + exit. The door was locked. Then I tried the other door and found that also + locked. I had been trapped! I wanted at once to whistle to my friend but + just then noticed a telephone on the wall and called up Baron Ungern. In a + few minutes he appeared together with Sepailoff. + </p> + <p> + “What is this?” he asked Sepailoff in a severe, threatening voice; and, + without waiting for an answer, struck him a blow with his tashur that sent + him to the floor. + </p> + <p> + We went out and the General ordered my luggage produced. Then he brought + me to his own yurta. + </p> + <p> + “Live here, now,” he said. “I am very glad of this accident,” he remarked + with a smile, “for now I can say all that I want to.” + </p> + <p> + This drew from me the question: + </p> + <p> + “May I describe all that I have heard and seen here?” + </p> + <p> + He thought a moment before replying: “Give me your notebook.” + </p> + <p> + I handed him the album with my sketches of the trip and he wrote therein: + “After my death, Baron Ungern.” + </p> + <p> + “But I am older than you and I shall die before you,” I remarked. + </p> + <p> + He shut his eyes, bowed his head and whispered: + </p> + <p> + “Oh, no! One hundred thirty days yet and it is finished; then . . . + Nirvana! How wearied I am with sorrow, woe and hate!” + </p> + <p> + We were silent for a long time. I felt that I had now a mortal enemy in + Colonel Sepailoff and that I should get out of Urga at the earliest + possible moment. It was two o’clock at night. Suddenly Baron Ungern stood + up. + </p> + <p> + “Let us go to the great, good Buddha,” he said with a countenance held in + deep thought and with eyes aflame, his whole face contracted by a + mournful, bitter smile. He ordered the car brought. + </p> + <p> + Thus lived this camp of martyrs, refugees pursued by events to their tryst + with Death, driven on by the hate and contempt of this offspring of + Teutons and privateers! And he, martyring them, knew neither day nor night + of peace. Fired by impelling, poisonous thoughts, he tormented himself + with the pains of a Titan, knowing that every day in this shortening chain + of one hundred thirty links brought him nearer to the precipice called + “Death.” + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0038" id="link2HCH0038"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXXVIII + </h2> + <h3> + BEFORE THE FACE OF BUDDHA + </h3> + <p> + As we came to the monastery we left the automobile and dipped into the + labyrinth of narrow alleyways until at last we were before the greatest + temple of Urga with the Tibetan walls and windows and its pretentious + Chinese roof. A single lantern burned at the entrance. The heavy gate with + the bronze and iron trimmings was shut. When the General struck the big + brass gong hanging by the gate, frightened monks began running up from all + directions and, seeing the “General Baron,” fell to the earth in fear of + raising their heads. + </p> + <p> + “Get up,” said the Baron, “and let us into the Temple!” + </p> + <p> + The inside was like that of all Lama temples, the same multi-colored flags + with the prayers, symbolic signs and the images of holy saints; the big + bands of silk cloth hanging from the ceiling; the images of the gods and + goddesses. On both sides of the approach to the altar were the low red + benches for the Lamas and choir. On the altar small lamps threw their rays + on the gold and silver vessels and candlesticks. Behind it hung a heavy + yellow silk curtain with Tibetan inscriptions. The Lamas drew the curtain + aside. Out of the dim light from the flickering lamps gradually appeared + the great gilded statue of Buddha seated in the Golden Lotus. The face of + the god was indifferent and calm with only a soft gleam of light animating + it. On either side he was guarded by many thousands of lesser Buddhas + brought by the faithful as offerings in prayer. The Baron struck the gong + to attract Great Buddha’s attention to his prayer and threw a handful of + coins into the large bronze bowl. And then this scion of crusaders who had + read all the philosophers of the West, closed his eyes, placed his hands + together before his face and prayed. I noticed a black rosary on his left + wrist. He prayed about ten minutes. Afterwards he led me to the other end + of the monastery and, during our passage, said to me: + </p> + <p> + “I do not like this temple. It is new, erected by the Lamas when the + Living Buddha became blind. I do not find on the face of the golden Buddha + either tears, hopes, distress or thanks of the people. They have not yet + had time to leave these traces on the face of the god. We shall go now to + the old Shrine of Prophecies.” + </p> + <p> + This was a small building, blackened with age and resembling a tower with + a plain round roof. The doors stood open. At both sides of the door were + prayer wheels ready to be spun; over it a slab of copper with the signs of + the zodiac. Inside two monks, who were intoning the sacred sutras, did not + lift their eyes as we entered. The General approached them and said: + </p> + <p> + “Cast the dice for the number of my days!” + </p> + <p> + The priests brought two bowls with many dice therein and rolled them out + on their low table. The Baron looked and reckoned with them the sum before + he spoke: + </p> + <p> + “One hundred thirty! Again one hundred thirty!” + </p> + <p> + Approaching the altar carrying an ancient stone statue of Buddha brought + all the way from India, he again prayed. As day dawned, we wandered out + through the monastery, visited all the temples and shrines, the museum of + the medical school, the astrological tower and then the court where the + Bandi and young Lamas have their daily morning wrestling exercises. In + other places the Lamas were practising with the bow and arrow. Some of the + higher Lamas feasted us with hot mutton, tea and wild onions. After we + returned to the yurta I tried to sleep but in vain. Too many different + questions were troubling me. “Where am I? In what epoch am I living?” I + knew not but I dimly felt the unseen touch of some great idea, some + enormous plan, some indescribable human woe. + </p> + <p> + After our noon meal the General said he wanted to introduce me to the + Living Buddha. It is so difficult to secure audience with the Living + Buddha that I was very glad to have this opportunity offered me. Our auto + soon drew up at the gate of the red and white striped wall surrounding the + palace of the god. Two hundred Lamas in yellow and red robes rushed to + greet the arriving “Chiang Chun,” General, with the low-toned, respectful + whisper “Khan! God of War!” As a regiment of formal ushers they led us to + a spacious great hall softened by its semi-darkness. Heavy carved doors + opened to the interior parts of the palace. In the depths of the hall + stood a dais with the throne covered with yellow silk cushions. The back + of the throne was red inside a gold framing; at either side stood yellow + silk screens set in highly ornamented frames of black Chinese wood; while + against the walls at either side of the throne stood glass cases filled + with varied objects from China, Japan, India and Russia. I noticed also + among them a pair of exquisite Marquis and Marquises in the fine porcelain + of Sevres. Before the throne stood a long, low table at which eight noble + Mongols were seated, their chairman, a highly esteemed old man with a + clever, energetic face and with large penetrating eyes. His appearance + reminded me of the authentic wooden images of the Buddhist holymen with + eyes of precious stones which I saw at the Tokyo Imperial Museum in the + department devoted to Buddhism, where the Japanese show the ancient + statues of Amida, Daunichi-Buddha, the Goddess Kwannon and the jolly old + Hotei. + </p> + <p> + This man was the Hutuktu Jahantsi, Chairman of the Mongolian Council of + Ministers, and honored and revered far beyond the bournes of Mongolia. The + others were the Ministers—Khans and the Highest Princes of Khalkha. + Jahantsi Hutuktu invited Baron Ungern to the place at his side, while they + brought in a European chair for me. Baron Ungern announced to the Council + of Ministers through an interpreter that he would leave Mongolia in a few + days and urged them to protect the freedom won for the lands inhabited by + the successors of Jenghiz Khan, whose soul still lives and calls upon the + Mongols to become anew a powerful people and reunite again into one great + Mid-Asiatic State all the Asian kingdoms he had ruled. + </p> + <p> + The General rose and all the others followed him. He took leave of each + one separately and sternly. Only before Jahantsi Lama he bent low while + the Hutuktu placed his hands on the Baron’s head and blessed him. From the + Council Chamber we passed at once to the Russian style house which is the + personal dwelling of the Living Buddha. The house was wholly surrounded by + a crowd of red and yellow Lamas; servants, councilors of Bogdo, officials, + fortune tellers, doctors and favorites. From the front entrance stretched + a long red rope whose outer end was thrown over the wall beside the gate. + Crowds of pilgrims crawling up on their knees touch this end of the rope + outside the gate and hand the monk a silken hatyk or a bit of silver. This + touching of the rope whose inner end is in the hand of the Bogdo + establishes direct communication with the holy, incarnated Living God. A + current of blessing is supposed to flow through this cable of camel’s wool + and horse hair. Any Mongol who has touched the mystic rope receives and + wears about his neck a red band as the sign of his accomplished + pilgrimage. + </p> + <p> + I had heard very much about the Bogdo Khan before this opportunity to see + him. I had heard of his love of alcohol, which had brought on blindness, + about his leaning toward exterior western culture and about his wife + drinking deep with him and receiving in his name numerous delegations and + envoys. + </p> + <p> + In the room which the Bogdo used as his private study, where two Lama + secretaries watched day and night over the chest that contained his great + seals, there was the severest simplicity. On a low, plain, Chinese + lacquered table lay his writing implements, a case of seals given by the + Chinese Government and by the Dalai Lama and wrapped in a cloth of yellow + silk. Nearby was a low easy chair, a bronze brazier with an iron stovepipe + leading up from it; on the walls were the signs of the swastika, Tibetan + and Mongolian inscriptions; behind the easy chair a small altar with a + golden statue of Buddha before which two tallow lamps were burning; the + floor was covered with a thick yellow carpet. + </p> + <p> + When we entered, only the two Lama secretaries were there, for the Living + Buddha was in the small private shrine in an adjoining chamber, where no + one is allowed to enter save the Bogdo Khan himself and one Lama, + Kanpo-Gelong, who cares for the temple arrangements and assists the Living + Buddha during his prayers of solitude. The secretary told us that the + Bogdo had been greatly excited this morning. At noon he had entered his + shrine. For a long time the voice of the head of the Yellow Faith was + heard in earnest prayer and after his another unknown voice came clearly + forth. In the shrine had taken place a conversation between the Buddha on + earth and the Buddha of heaven—thus the Lamas phrased it to us. + </p> + <p> + “Let us wait a little,” the Baron proposed. “Perhaps he will soon come + out.” + </p> + <p> + As we waited the General began telling me about Jahantsi Lama, saying + that, when Jahantsi is calm, he is an ordinary man but, when he is + disturbed and thinks very deeply, a nimbus appears about his head. + </p> + <p> + After half an hour the Lama secretaries suddenly showed signs of deep fear + and began listening closely by the entrance to the shrine. Shortly they + fell on their faces on the ground. The door slowly opened and there + entered the Emperor of Mongolia, the Living Buddha, His Holiness Bogdo + Djebtsung Damba Hutuktu, Khan of Outer Mongolia. He was a stout old man + with a heavy shaven face resembling those of the Cardinals of Rome. He was + dressed in the yellow silken Mongolian coat with a black binding. The eyes + of the blind man stood widely open. Fear and amazement were pictured in + them. He lowered himself heavily into the easy chair and whispered: + “Write!” + </p> + <p> + A secretary immediately took paper and a Chinese pen as the Bogdo began to + dictate his vision, very complicated and far from clear. He finished with + the following words: + </p> + <p> + “This I, Bogdo Hutuktu Khan, saw, speaking with the great wise Buddha, + surrounded by the good and evil spirits. Wise Lamas, Hutuktus, Kanpos, + Marambas and Holy Gheghens, give the answer to my vision!” + </p> + <p> + As he finished, he wiped the perspiration from his head and asked who were + present. + </p> + <p> + “Khan Chiang Chin Baron Ungern and a stranger,” one of the secretaries + answered on his knees. + </p> + <p> + The General presented me to the Bogdo, who bowed his head as a sign of + greeting. They began speaking together in low tones. Through the open door + I saw a part of the shrine. I made out a big table with a heap of books on + it, some open and others lying on the floor below; a brazier with the red + charcoal in it; a basket containing the shoulder blades and entrails of + sheep for telling fortunes. Soon the Baron rose and bowed before the + Bogdo. The Tibetan placed his hands on the Baron’s head and whispered a + prayer. Then he took from his own neck a heavy ikon and hung it around + that of the Baron. + </p> + <p> + “You will not die but you will be incarnated in the highest form of being. + Remember that, Incarnated God of War, Khan of grateful Mongolia!” I + understood that the Living Buddha blessed the “Bloody General” before + death. + </p> + <p> + During the next two days I had the opportunity to visit the Living Buddha + three times together with a friend of the Bogdo, the Buriat Prince Djam + Bolon. I shall describe these visits in Part IV. + </p> + <p> + Baron Ungern organized the trip for me and my party to the shore of the + Pacific. We were to go on camels to northern Manchuria, because there it + was easy to avoid cavilling with the Chinese authorities so badly oriented + in the international relationship with Poland. Having sent a letter from + Uliassutai to the French Legation at Peking and bearing with me a letter + from the Chinese Chamber of Commerce, expressing thanks for the saving of + Uliassutai from a pogrom, I intended to make for the nearest station on + the Chinese Eastern Railway and from there proceed to Peking. The Danish + merchant E. V. Olufsen was to have traveled out with me and also a learned + Lama Turgut, who was headed for China. + </p> + <p> + Never shall I forget the night of May 19th to 20th of 1921! After dinner + Baron Ungern proposed that we go to the yurta of Djam Bolon, whose + acquaintance I had made on the first day after my arrival in Urga. His + yurta was placed on a raised wooden platform in a compound located behind + the Russian settlement. Two Buriat officers met us and took us in. Djam + Bolon was a man of middle age, tall and thin with an unusually long face. + Before the Great War he had been a simple shepherd but had fought together + with Baron Ungern on the German front and afterwards against the + Bolsheviki. He was a Grand Duke of the Buriats, the successor of former + Buriat kings who had been dethroned by the Russian Government after their + attempt to establish the Independence of the Buriat people. The servants + brought us dishes with nuts, raisins, dates and cheese and served us tea. + </p> + <p> + “This is the last night, Djam Bolon!” said Baron Ungern. “You promised me + . . .” + </p> + <p> + “I remember,” answered the Buriat, “all is ready.” + </p> + <p> + For a long time I listened to their reminiscences about former battles and + friends who had been lost. The clock pointed to midnight when Djam Bolon + got up and went out of the yurta. + </p> + <p> + “I want to have my fortune told once more,” said Baron Ungern, as though + he were justifying himself. “For the good of our cause it is too early for + me to die. . . .” + </p> + <p> + Djam Bolon came back with a little woman of middle years, who squatted + down eastern style before the brazier, bowed low and began to stare at + Baron Ungern. Her face was whiter, narrower and thinner than that of a + Mongol woman. Her eyes were black and sharp. Her dress resembled that of a + gypsy woman. Afterwards I learned that she was a famous fortune teller and + prophet among the Buriats, the daughter of a gypsy woman and a Buriat. She + drew a small bag very slowly from her girdle, took from it some small bird + bones and a handful of dry grass. She began whispering at intervals + unintelligible words, as she threw occasional handfuls of the grass into + the fire, which gradually filled the tent with a soft fragrance. I felt a + distinct palpitation of my heart and a swimming in my head. After the + fortune teller had burned all her grass, she placed the bird bones on the + charcoal and turned them over again and again with a small pair of bronze + pincers. As the bones blackened, she began to examine them and then + suddenly her face took on an expression of fear and pain. She nervously + tore off the kerchief which bound her head and, contracted with + convulsions, began snapping out short, sharp phrases. + </p> + <p> + “I see . . . I see the God of War. . . . His life runs out . . . horribly. + . . . After it a shadow . . . black like the night. . . . Shadow. . . . + One hundred thirty steps remain. . . . Beyond darkness. . . . Nothing . . + . I see nothing. . . . The God of War has disappeared. . . .” + </p> + <p> + Baron Ungern dropped his head. The woman fell over on her back with her + arms stretched out. She had fainted, but it seemed to me that I noticed + once a bright pupil of one of her eyes showing from under the closed + lashes. Two Buriats carried out the lifeless form, after which a long + silence reigned in the yurta of the Buriat Prince. Baron Ungern finally + got up and began to walk around the brazier, whispering to himself. + Afterwards he stopped and began speaking rapidly: + </p> + <p> + “I shall die! I shall die! . . . but no matter, no matter. . . . The cause + has been launched and will not die. . . . I know the roads this cause will + travel. The tribes of Jenghiz Khan’s successors are awakened. Nobody shall + extinguish the fire in the heart of the Mongols! In Asia there will be a + great State from the Pacific and Indian Oceans to the shore of the Volga. + The wise religion of Buddha shall run to the north and the west. It will + be the victory of the spirit. A conqueror and leader will appear stronger + and more stalwart than Jenghiz Khan and Ugadai. He will be more clever and + more merciful than Sultan Baber and he will keep power in his hands until + the happy day when, from his subterranean capital, shall emerge the King + of the World. Why, why shall I not be in the first ranks of the warriors + of Buddhism? Why has Karma decided so? But so it must be! And Russia must + first wash herself from the insult of revolution, purifying herself with + blood and death; and all people accepting Communism must perish with their + families in order that all their offspring may be rooted out!” + </p> + <p> + The Baron raised his hand above his head and shook it, as though he were + giving his orders and bequests to some invisible person. + </p> + <p> + Day was dawning. + </p> + <p> + “My time has come!” said the General. “In a little while I shall leave + Urga.” + </p> + <p> + He quickly and firmly shook hands with us and said: + </p> + <p> + “Good-bye for all time! I shall die a horrible death but the world has + never seen such a terror and such a sea of blood as it shall now see. . . + .” + </p> + <p> + The door of the yurta slammed shut and he was gone. I never saw him again. + </p> + <p> + “I must go also, for I am likewise leaving Urga today.” + </p> + <p> + “I know it,” answered the Prince, “the Baron has left you with me for some + purpose. I will give you a fourth companion, the Mongol Minister of War. + You will accompany him to your yurta. It is necessary for you. . . .” + </p> + <p> + Djam Bolon pronounced this last with an accent on every word. I did not + question him about it, as I was accustomed to the mystery of this country + of the mysteries of good and evil spirits. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0039" id="link2HCH0039"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXXIX + </h2> + <h3> + “THE MAN WITH A HEAD LIKE A SADDLE” + </h3> + <p> + After drinking tea at Djam Bolon’s yurta I rode back to my quarters and + packed my few belongings. The Lama Turgut was already there. + </p> + <p> + “The Minister of War will travel with us,” he whispered. “It is + necessary.” + </p> + <p> + “All right,” I answered, and rode off to Olufsen to summon him. But + Olufsen unexpectedly announced that he was forced to spend some few days + more in Urga—a fatal decision for him, for a month later he was + reported killed by Sepailoff who remained as Commandant of the city after + Baron Ungern’s departure. The War Minister, a stout, young Mongol, joined + our caravan. When we had gone about six miles from the city, we saw an + automobile coming up behind us. The Lama shrunk up inside his coat and + looked at me with fear. I felt the now familiar atmosphere of danger and + so opened my holster and threw over the safety catch of my revolver. Soon + the motor stopped alongside our caravan. In it sat Sepailoff with a + smiling face and beside him his two executioners, Chestiakoff and Jdanoff. + Sepailoff greeted us very warmly and asked: + </p> + <p> + “You are changing your horses in Khazahuduk? Does the road cross that pass + ahead? I don’t know the way and must overtake an envoy who went there.” + </p> + <p> + The Minister of War answered that we would be in Khazahuduk that evening + and gave Sepailoff directions as to the road. The motor rushed away and, + when it had topped the pass, he ordered one of the Mongols to gallop + forward to see whether it had not stopped somewhere near the other side. + The Mongol whipped his steed and sped away. We followed slowly. + </p> + <p> + “What is the matter?” I asked. “Please explain!” + </p> + <p> + The Minister told me that Djam Bolon yesterday received information that + Sepailoff planned to overtake me on the way and kill me. Sepailoff + suspected that I had stirred up the Baron against him. Djam Bolon reported + the matter to the Baron, who organized this column for my safety. The + returning Mongol reported that the motor car had gone on out of sight. + </p> + <p> + “Now,” said the Minister, “we shall take quite another route so that the + Colonel will wait in vain for us at Khazahuduk.” + </p> + <p> + We turned north at Undur Dobo and at night were in the camp of a local + prince. Here we took leave of our Minister, received splendid fresh horses + and quickly continued our trip to the east, leaving behind us “the man + with the head like a saddle” against whom I had been warned by the old + fortune teller in the vicinity of Van Kure. + </p> + <p> + After twelve days without further adventures we reached the first railway + station on the Chinese Eastern Railway, from where I traveled in + unbelievable luxury to Peking. + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + Surrounded by the comforts and conveniences of the splendid hotel at + Peking, while shedding all the attributes of traveler, hunter and warrior, + I could not, however, throw off the spell of those nine days spent in + Urga, where I had daily met Baron Ungern, “Incarnated God of War.” The + newspapers carrying accounts of the bloody march of the Baron through + Transbaikalia brought the pictures ever fresh to my mind. Even now, + although more than seven months have elapsed, I cannot forget those nights + of madness, inspiration and hate. + </p> + <p> + The predictions are fulfilled. Approximately one hundred thirty days + afterwards Baron Ungern was captured by the Bolsheviki through the + treachery of his officers and, it is reported, was executed at the end of + September. + </p> + <p> + Baron R. F. Ungern von Sternberg. . . . Like a bloody storm of avenging + Karma he spread over Central Asia. What did he leave behind him? The + severe order to his soldiers closing with the words of the Revelations of + St. John: + </p> + <p> + “Let no one check the revenge against the corrupter and slayer of the soul + of the Russian people. Revolution must be eradicated from the World. + Against it the Revelations of St. John have warned us thus: ‘And the woman + was arrayed in purple and scarlet, and decked with gold and precious + stones and pearls, having in her hand a golden cup full of abominations, + even the unclean things of her fornication, and upon her forehead a name + written, MYSTERY, BABYLON THE GREAT, THE MOTHER OF THE HARLOTS AND OF THE + ABOMINATIONS OF THE EARTH. And I saw the woman drunken with the blood of + the saints, and with the blood of the martyrs of Jesus.’” + </p> + <p> + It is a human document, a document of Russian and, perhaps, of world + tragedy. + </p> + <p> + But there remained another and more important trace. In the Mongol yurtas + and at the fires of Buriat, Mongol, Djungar, Kirkhiz, Kalmuck and Tibetan + shepherds still speak the legend born of this son of crusaders and + privateers: + </p> + <p> + “From the north a white warrior came and called on the Mongols to break + their chains of slavery, which fell upon our freed soil. This white + warrior was the Incarnated Jenghiz Khan and he predicted the coming of the + greatest of all Mongols who will spread the fair faith of Buddha and the + glory and power of the offspring of Jenghiz, Ugadai and Kublai Khan. So it + shall be!” + </p> + <p> + Asia is awakened and her sons utter bold words. + </p> + <p> + It were well for the peace of the world if they go forth as disciples of + the wise creators, Ugadai and Sultan Baber, rather than under the spell of + the “bad demons” of the destructive Tamerlane. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_PART4" id="link2H_PART4"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Part IV + </h2> + <h3> + THE LIVING BUDDHA + </h3> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0040" id="link2HCH0040"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XL + </h2> + <h3> + IN THE BLISSFUL GARDEN OF A THOUSAND JOYS + </h3> + <p> + In Mongolia, the country of miracles and mysteries, lives the custodian of + all the mysterious and unknown, the Living Buddha, His Holiness Djebtsung + Damba Hutuktu Khan or Bogdo Gheghen, Pontiff of Ta Kure. He is the + incarnation of the never-dying Buddha, the representative of the unbroken, + mysteriously continued line of spiritual emperors ruling since 1670, + concealing in themselves the ever refining spirit of Buddha Amitabha + joined with Chan-ra-zi or the “Compassionate Spirit of the Mountains.” In + him is everything, even the Sun Myth and the fascination of the mysterious + peaks of the Himalayas, tales of the Indian pagoda, the stern majesty of + the Mongolian Conquerors—Emperors of All Asia—and the ancient, + hazy legends of the Chinese sages; immersion in the thoughts of the + Brahmans; the severities of life of the monks of the “Virtuous Order”; the + vengeance of the eternally wandering warriors, the Olets, with their + Khans, Batur Hun Taigi and Gushi; the proud bequests of Jenghiz and Kublai + Khan; the clerical reactionary psychology of the Lamas; the mystery of + Tibetan kings beginning from Srong-Tsang Gampo; and the mercilessness of + the Yellow Sect of Paspa. All the hazy history of Asia, of Mongolia, + Pamir, Himalayas, Mesopotamia, Persia and China, surrounds the Living God + of Urga. It is little wonder that his name is honored along the Volga, in + Siberia, Arabia, between the Tigris and Euphrates, in Indo-China and on + the shores of the Arctic Ocean. + </p> + <p> + During my stay in Urga I visited the abode of the Living Buddha several + times, spoke with him and observed his life. His favorite learned Marambas + gave me long accounts of him. I saw him reading horoscopes, I heard his + predictions, I looked over his archives of ancient books and the + manuscripts containing the lives and predictions of all the Bogdo Khans. + The Lamas were very frank and open with me, because the letter of the + Hutuktu of Narabanchi won for me their confidence. + </p> + <p> + The personality of the Living Buddha is double, just as everything in + Lamaism is double. Clever, penetrating, energetic, he at the same time + indulges in the drunkenness which has brought on blindness. When he became + blind, the Lamas were thrown into a state of desperation. Some of them + maintained that Bogdo Khan must be poisoned and another Incarnate Buddha + set in his place; while the others pointed out the great merits of the + Pontiff in the eyes of Mongolians and the followers of the Yellow Faith. + They finally decided to propitiate the gods by building a great temple + with a gigantic statue of Buddha. However, this did not help the Bogdo’s + sight but the whole incident gave him the opportunity of hurrying on to + their higher life those among the Lamas who had shown too much radicalism + in their proposed method of solving his problem. + </p> + <p> + He never ceases to ponder upon the cause of the church and of Mongolia and + at the same time likes to indulge himself with useless trifles. He amuses + himself with artillery. A retired Russian officer presented him with two + old guns, for which the donor received the title of Tumbaiir Hun, that is, + “Prince Dear-to-my-Heart.” On holidays these cannon were fired to the + great amusement of the blind man. Motorcars, gramophones, telephones, + crystals, porcelains, pictures, perfumes, musical instruments, rare + animals and birds; elephants, Himalayan bears, monkeys, Indian snakes and + parrots—all these were in the palace of “the god” but all were soon + cast aside and forgotten. + </p> + <p> + To Urga come pilgrims and presents from all the Lamaite and Buddhist + world. Once the treasurer of the palace, the Honorable Balma Dorji, took + me into the great hall where the presents were kept. It was a most unique + museum of precious articles. Here were gathered together rare objects + unknown to the museums of Europe. The treasurer, as he opened a case with + a silver lock, said to me: + </p> + <p> + “These are pure gold nuggets from Bei Kem; here are black sables from + Kemchick; these the miraculous deer horns; this a box sent by the Orochons + and filled with precious ginseng roots and fragrant musk; this a bit of + amber from the coast of the ‘frozen sea’ and it weighs 124 lans (about ten + pounds); these are precious stones from India, fragrant zebet and carved + ivory from China.” + </p> + <p> + He showed the exhibits and talked of them for a long time and evidently + enjoyed the telling. And really it was wonderful! Before my eyes lay the + bundles of rare furs; white beaver, black sables, white, blue and black + fox and black panthers; small beautifully carved tortoise shell boxes + containing hatyks ten or fifteen yards long, woven from Indian silk as + fine as the webs of the spider; small bags made of golden thread filled + with pearls, the presents of Indian Rajahs; precious rings with sapphires + and rubies from China and India; big pieces of jade, rough diamonds; ivory + tusks ornamented with gold, pearls and precious stones; bright clothes + sewn with gold and silver thread; walrus tusks carved in bas-relief by the + primitive artists on the shores of the Behring Sea; and much more that one + cannot recall or recount. In a separate room stood the cases with the + statues of Buddha, made of gold, silver, bronze, ivory, coral, mother of + pearl and from a rare colored and fragrant species of wood. + </p> + <p> + “You know when conquerors come into a country where the gods are honored, + they break the images and throw them down. So it was more than three + hundred years ago when the Kalmucks went into Tibet and the same was + repeated in Peking when the European troops looted the place in 1900. But + do you know why this is done? Take one of the statues and examine it.” + </p> + <p> + I picked up one nearest the edge, a wooden Buddha, and began examining it. + Inside something was loose and rattled. + </p> + <p> + “Do you hear it?” the Lama asked. “These are precious stones and bits of + gold, the entrails of the god. This is the reason why the conquerors at + once break up the statues of the gods. Many famous precious stones have + appeared from the interior of the statues of the gods in India, Babylon + and China.” + </p> + <p> + Some rooms were devoted to the library, where manuscripts and volumes of + different epochs in different languages and with many diverse themes fill + the shelves. Some of them are mouldering or pulverizing away and the Lamas + cover these now with a solution which partially solidifies like a jelly to + protect what remains from the ravages of the air. There also we saw + tablets of clay with the cuneiform inscriptions, evidently from Babylonia; + Chinese, Indian and Tibetan books shelved beside those of Mongolia; tomes + of the ancient pure Buddhism; books of the “Red Caps” or corrupt Buddhism; + books of the “Yellow” or Lamaite Buddhism; books of traditions, legends + and parables. Groups of Lamas were perusing, studying and copying these + books, preserving and spreading the ancient wisdom for their successors. + </p> + <p> + One department is devoted to the mysterious books on magic, the historical + lives and works of all the thirty-one Living Buddhas, with the bulls of + the Dalai Lama, of the Pontiff from Tashi Lumpo, of the Hutuktu of Utai in + China, of the Pandita Gheghen of Dolo Nor in Inner Mongolia and of the + Hundred Chinese Wise Men. Only the Bogdo Hutuktu and Maramba Ta-Rimpo-Cha + can enter this room of mysterious lore. The keys to it rest with the seals + of the Living Buddha and the ruby ring of Jenghiz Khan ornamented with the + sign of the swastika in the chest in the private study of the Bogdo. + </p> + <p> + The person of His Holiness is surrounded by five thousand Lamas. They are + divided into many ranks from simple servants to the “Councillors of God,” + of which latter the Government consists. Among these Councillors are all + the four Khans of Mongolia and the five highest Princes. + </p> + <p> + Of all the Lamas there are three classes of peculiar interest, about which + the Living Buddha himself told me when I visited him with Djam Bolon. + </p> + <p> + “The God” sorrowfully mourned over the demoralized and sumptuous life led + by the Lamas which decreased rapidly the number of fortune tellers and + clairvoyants among their ranks, saying of it: + </p> + <p> + “If the Jahantsi and Narabanchi monasteries had not preserved their strict + regime and rules, Ta Kure would have been left without prophets and + fortune tellers. Barun Abaga Nar, Dorchiul-Jurdok and the other holy Lamas + who had the power of seeing that which is hidden from the sight of the + common people have gone with the blessing of the gods.” + </p> + <p> + This class of Lamas is a very important one, because every important + personage visiting the monasteries at Urga is shown to the Lama Tzuren or + fortune teller without the knowledge of the visitor for the study of his + destiny and fate, which are then communicated to the Bogdo Hutuktu, so + that with these facts in his possession the Bogdo knows in what way to + treat his guest and what policy to follow toward him. The Tzurens are + mostly old men, skinny, exhausted and severe ascetics. But I have met some + who were young, almost boys. They were the Hubilgan, “incarnate gods,” the + future Hutuktus and Gheghens of the various Mongolian monasteries. + </p> + <p> + The second class is the doctors or “Ta Lama.” They observe the actions of + plants and certain products from animals upon people, preserve Tibetan + medicines and cures, and study anatomy very carefully but without making + use of vivisection and the scalpel. They are skilful bone setters, + masseurs and great connoisseurs of hypnotism and animal magnetism. + </p> + <p> + The third class is the highest rank of doctors, consisting chiefly of + Tibetans and Kalmucks—poisoners. They may be said to be “doctors of + political medicine.” They live by themselves, apart from any associates, + and are the great silent weapon in the hands of the Living Buddha. I was + informed that a large portion of them are dumb. I saw one such doctor,—the + very person who poisoned the Chinese physician sent by the Chinese Emperor + from Peking to “liquidate” the Living Buddha,—a small white old + fellow with a deeply wrinkled face, a curl of white hairs on his chin and + with vivacious eyes that were ever shifting inquiringly about him. + Whenever he comes to a monastery, the local “god” ceases to eat and drink + in fear of the activities of this Mongolian Locusta. But even this cannot + save the condemned, for a poisoned cap or shirt or boots, or a rosary, a + bridle, books or religious articles soaked in a poisonous solution will + surely accomplish the object of the Bogdo-Khan. + </p> + <p> + The deepest esteem and religious faithfulness surround the blind Pontiff. + Before him all fall on their faces. Khans and Hutuktus approach him on + their knees. Everything about him is dark, full of Oriental antiquity. The + drunken blind man, listening to the banal arias of the gramophone or + shaking his servants with an electric current from his dynamo, the + ferocious old fellow poisoning his political enemies, the Lama keeping his + people in darkness and deceiving them with his prophecies and fortune + telling,—he is, however, not an entirely ordinary man. + </p> + <p> + One day we sat in the room of the Bogdo and Prince Djam Bolon translated + to him my story of the Great War. The old fellow was listening very + carefully but suddenly opened his eyes widely and began to give attention + to some sounds coming in from outside the room. His face became reverent, + supplicant and frightened. + </p> + <p> + “The Gods call me,” he whispered and slowly moved into his private shrine, + where he prayed loudly about two hours, kneeling immobile as a statue. His + prayer consists of conversation with the invisible gods, to whose + questions he himself gave the answers. He came out of the shrine pale and + exhausted but pleased and happy. It was his personal prayer. During the + regular temple service he did not participate in the prayers, for then he + is “God.” Sitting on his throne, he is carried and placed on the altar and + there prayed to by the Lamas and the people. He only receives the prayers, + hopes, tears, woe and desperation of the people, immobilely gazing into + space with his sharp and bright but blind eyes. At various times in the + service the Lamas robe him in different vestments, combinations of yellow + and red, and change his caps. The service always finishes at the solemn + moment when the Living Buddha with the tiara on his head pronounces the + pontifical blessing upon the congregation, turning his face to all four + cardinal points of the compass and finally stretching out his hands toward + the northwest, that is, to Europe, whither in the belief of the Yellow + Faith must travel the teachings of the wise Buddha. + </p> + <p> + After earnest prayers or long temple services the Pontiff seems very + deeply shaken and often calls his secretaries and dictates his visions and + prophecies, always very complicated and unaccompanied by his deductions. + </p> + <p> + Sometimes with the words “Their souls are communicating,” he puts on his + white robes and goes to pray in his shrine. Then all the gates of the + palace are shut and all the Lamas are sunk in solemn, mystic fear; all are + praying, telling their rosaries and whispering the orison: “Om! Mani padme + Hung!” or turning the prayer wheels with their prayers or exorcisings; the + fortune tellers read their horoscopes; the clairvoyants write out their + visions; while Marambas search the ancient books for explanations of the + words of the Living Buddha. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0041" id="link2HCH0041"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XLI + </h2> + <h3> + THE DUST OF CENTURIES + </h3> + <p> + Have you ever seen the dusty cobwebs and the mould in the cellars of some + ancient castle in Italy, France or England? This is the dust of centuries. + Perhaps it touched the faces, helmets and swords of a Roman Augustus, St. + Louis, the Inquisitor, Galileo or King Richard. Your heart is + involuntarily contracted and you feel a respect for these witnesses of + elapsed ages. This same impression came to me in Ta Kure, perhaps more + deep, more realistic. Here life flows on almost as it flowed eight + centuries ago; here man lives only in the past; and the contemporary only + complicates and prevents the normal life. + </p> + <p> + “Today is a great day,” the Living Buddha once said to me, “the day of the + victory of Buddhism over all other religions. It was a long time ago—on + this day Kublai Khan called to him the Lamas of all religions and ordered + them to state to him how and what they believed. They praised their Gods + and their Hutuktus. Discussions and quarrels began. Only one Lama remained + silent. At last he mockingly smiled and said: + </p> + <p> + “‘Great Emperor! Order each to prove the power of his Gods by the + performance of a miracle and afterwards judge and choose.’ + </p> + <p> + “Kublai Khan so ordered all the Lamas to show him a miracle but all were + silent, confused and powerless before him. + </p> + <p> + “‘Now,’ said the Emperor, addressing the Lama who had tendered this + suggestion, ‘now you must prove the power of your Gods!’ + </p> + <p> + “The Lama looked long and silently at the Emperor, turned and gazed at the + whole assembly and then quietly stretched out his hand toward them. At + this instant the golden goblet of the Emperor raised itself from the table + and tipped before the lips of the Khan without a visible hand supporting + it. The Emperor felt the delight of a fragrant wine. All were struck with + astonishment and the Emperor spoke: + </p> + <p> + “‘I elect to pray to your Gods and to them all people subject to me must + pray. What is your faith? Who are you and from where do you come?’ + </p> + <p> + “‘My faith is the teaching of the wise Buddha. I am Pandita Lama, Turjo + Gamba, from the distant and glorious monastery of Sakkia in Tibet, where + dwells incarnate in a human body the Spirit of Buddha, his Wisdom and his + Power. Remember, Emperor, that the peoples who hold our faith shall + possess all the Western Universe and during eight hundred and eleven years + shall spread their faith throughout the whole world.’ + </p> + <p> + “Thus it happened on this same day many centuries ago! Lama Turjo Gamba + did not return to Tibet but lived here in Ta Kure, where there was then + only a small temple. From here he traveled to the Emperor at Karakorum and + afterwards with him to the capital of China to fortify him in the Faith, + to predict the fate of state affairs and to enlighten him according to the + will of God.” + </p> + <p> + The Living Buddha was silent for a time, whispered a prayer and then + continued: + </p> + <p> + “Urga, the ancient nest of Buddhism. . . . With Jenghiz Khan on his + European conquest went out the Olets or Kalmucks. They remained there + almost four hundred years, living on the plains of Russia. Then they + returned to Mongolia because the Yellow Lamas called them to light against + the Kings of Tibet, Lamas of the ‘red caps,’ who were oppressing the + people. The Kalmucks helped the Yellow Faith but they realized that Lhasa + was too distant from the whole world and could not spread our Faith + throughout the earth. Consequently the Kalmuck Gushi Khan brought up from + Tibet a holy Lama, Undur Gheghen, who had visited the ‘King of the World.’ + From that day the Bogdo Gheghen has continuously lived in Urga, a + protector of the freedom of Mongolia and of the Chinese Emperors of + Mongolian origin. Undur Gheghen was the first Living Buddha in the land of + the Mongols. He left to us, his successors, the ring of Jenghiz Khan, + which was sent by Kublai Khan to Dalai Lama in return for the miracle + shown by the Lama Turjo Gamba; also the top of the skull of a black, + mysterious miracle worker from India, using which as a bowl, Strongtsan, + King of Tibet, drank during the temple ceremonies one thousand six hundred + years ago; as well as an ancient stone statue of Buddha brought from Delhi + by the founder of the Yellow Faith, Paspa.” + </p> + <p> + The Bogdo clapped his hands and one of the secretaries took from a red + kerchief a big silver key with which he unlocked the chest with the seals. + The Living Buddha slipped his hand into the chest and drew forth a small + box of carved ivory, from which he took out and showed to me a large gold + ring set with a magnificent ruby carved with the sign of the swastika. + </p> + <p> + “This ring was always worn on the right hand of the Khans Jenghiz and + Kublai,” said the Bogdo. + </p> + <p> + When the secretary had closed the chest, the Bogdo ordered him to summon + his favorite Maramba, whom he directed to read some pages from an ancient + book lying on the table. The Lama began to read monotonously. + </p> + <p> + “When Gushi Khan, the Chief of all the Olets or Kalmucks, finished the war + with the ‘Red Caps’ in Tibet, he carried out with him the miraculous + ‘black stone’ sent to the Dalai Lama by the ‘King of the World.’ Gushi + Khan wanted to create in Western Mongolia the capital of the Yellow Faith; + but the Olets at that time were at war with the Manchu Emperors for the + throne of China and suffered one defeat after another. The last Khan of + the Olets, Amursana, ran away into Russia but before his escape sent to + Urga the sacred ‘black stone.’ While it remained in Urga so that the + Living Buddha could bless the people with it, disease and misfortune never + touched the Mongolians and their cattle. About one hundred years ago, + however, some one stole the sacred stone and since then Buddhists have + vainly sought it throughout the whole world. With its disappearance the + Mongol people began gradually to die.” + </p> + <p> + “Enough!” ordered Bogdo Gheghen. “Our neighbors hold us in contempt. They + forget that we were their sovereigns but we preserve our holy traditions + and we know that the day of triumph of the Mongolian tribes and the Yellow + Faith will come. We have the Protectors of the Faith, the Buriats. They + are the truest guardians of the bequests of Jenghiz Khan.” + </p> + <p> + So spoke the Living Buddha and so have spoken the ancient books! + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0042" id="link2HCH0042"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XLII + </h2> + <h3> + THE BOOKS OF MIRACLES + </h3> + <p> + Prince Djam Bolon asked a Maramba to show us the library of the Living + Buddha. It is a big room occupied by scores of writers who prepare the + works dealing with the miracles of all the Living Buddhas, beginning with + Undur Gheghen and ending with those of the Gheghens and Hutuktus of the + different Mongol monasteries. These books are afterwards distributed + through all the Lama Monasteries, temples and schools of Bandi. A Maramba + read two selections: + </p> + <p> + “. . . The beatific Bogdo Gheghen breathed on a mirror. Immediately as + through a haze there appeared the picture of a valley in which many + thousands of thousands of warriors fought one against another. . . .” + </p> + <p> + “The wise and favored-of-the-gods Living Buddha burned incense in a + brazier and prayed to the Gods to reveal the lot of the Princes. In the + blue smoke all saw a dark prison and the pallid, tortured bodies of the + dead Princes. . . .” + </p> + <p> + A special book, already done into thousands of copies, dwelt upon the + miracles of the present Living Buddha. Prince Djam Bolon described to me + some of the contents of this volume. + </p> + <p> + “There exists an ancient wooden Buddha with open eyes. He was brought here + from India and Bogdo Gheghen placed him on the altar and began to pray. + When he returned from the shrine, he ordered the statue of Buddha brought + out. All were struck with amazement, for the eyes of the God were shut and + tears were falling from them; from the wooden body green sprouts appeared; + and the Bogdo said: + </p> + <p> + “‘Woe and joy are awaiting me. I shall become blind but Mongolia will be + free.’ + </p> + <p> + “The prophecy is fulfilled. At another time, on a day when the Living + Buddha was very much excited, he ordered a basin of water brought and set + before the altar. He called the Lamas and began to pray. Suddenly the + altar candles and lamps lighted themselves and the water in the basin + became iridescent.” + </p> + <p> + Afterwards the Prince described to me how the Bogdo Khan tells fortunes + with fresh blood, upon whose surface appear words and pictures; with the + entrails of sheep and goats, according to whose distribution the Bogdo + reads the fate of the Princes and knows their thoughts; with stones and + bones from which the Living Buddha with great accuracy reads the lot of + all men; and by the stars, in accordance with whose positions the Bogdo + prepares amulets against bullets and disease. + </p> + <p> + “The former Bogdo Khans told fortunes only by the use of the ‘black + stone,’” said the Maramba. “On the surface of the stone appeared Tibetan + inscriptions which the Bogdo read and thus learned the lot of whole + nations.” + </p> + <p> + When the Maramba spoke of the black stone with the Tibetan legends + appearing on it, I at once recalled that it was possible. In southeastern + Urianhai, in Ulan Taiga, I came across a place where black slate was + decomposing. All the pieces of this slate were covered with a special + white lichen, which formed very complicated designs, reminding me of a + Venetian lace pattern or whole pages of mysterious runes. When the slate + was wet, these designs disappeared; and then, as they were dried, the + patterns came out again. + </p> + <p> + Nobody has the right or dares to ask the Living Buddha to tell his + fortune. He predicts only when he feels the inspiration or when a special + delegate comes to him bearing a request for it from the Dalai Lama or the + Tashi Lama. When the Russian Czar, Alexander I, fell under the influence + of Baroness Kzudener and of her extreme mysticism, he despatched a special + envoy to the Living Buddha to ask about his destiny. The then Bogdo Khan, + quite a young man, told his fortune according to the “black stone” and + predicted that the White Czar would finish his life in very painful + wanderings unknown to all and everywhere pursued. In Russia today there + exists a popular belief that Alexander I spent the last days of his life + as a wanderer throughout Russia and Siberia under the pseudonym of Feodor + Kusmitch, helping and consoling prisoners, beggars and other suffering + people, often pursued and imprisoned by the police and finally dying at + Tomsk in Siberia, where even until now they have preserved the house where + he spent his last days and have kept his grave sacred, a place of + pilgrimages and miracles. The former dynasty of Romanoff was deeply + interested in the biography of Feodor Kusmitch and this interest fixed the + opinion that Kusmitch was really the Czar Alexander I, who had voluntarily + taken upon himself this severe penance. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0043" id="link2HCH0043"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XLIII + </h2> + <h3> + THE BIRTH OF THE LIVING BUDDHA + </h3> + <p> + The Living Buddha does not die. His soul sometimes passes into that of a + child born on the day of his death and sometimes transfers itself to + another being during the life of the Buddha. This new mortal dwelling of + the sacred spirit of the Buddha almost always appears in the yurta of some + poor Tibetan or Mongol family. There is a reason of policy for this. If + the Buddha appears in the family of a rich prince, it could result in the + elevation of a family that would not yield obedience to the clergy (and + such has happened in the past), while on the other hand any poor, unknown + family that becomes the heritor of the throne of Jenghiz Khan acquires + riches and is readily submissive to the Lamas. Only three or four Living + Buddhas were of purely Mongolian origin; the remainder were Tibetans. + </p> + <p> + One of the Councillors of the Living Buddha, Lama-Khan Jassaktu, told me + the following: + </p> + <p> + “In the monasteries at Lhasa and Tashi Lumpo they are kept constantly + informed through letters from Urga about the health of the Living Buddha. + When his human body becomes old and the Spirit of Buddha strives to + extricate itself, special solemn services begin in the Tibetan temples + together with the telling of fortunes by astrology. These rites indicate + the specially pious Lamas who must discover where the Spirit of the Buddha + will be re-incarnated. For this purpose they travel throughout the whole + land and observe. Often God himself gives them signs and indications. + Sometimes the white wolf appears near the yurta of a poor shepherd or a + lamb with two heads is born or a meteor falls from the sky. Some Lamas + take fish from the sacred lake Tangri Nor and read on the scales thereof + the name of the new Bogdo Khan; others pick out stones whose cracks + indicate to them where they must search and whom they must find; while + others secrete themselves in narrow mountain ravines to listen to the + voices of the spirits of the mountains, pronouncing the name of the new + choice of the Gods. When he is found, all the possible information about + his family is secretly collected and presented to the Most Learned Tashi + Lama, having the name of Erdeni, “The Great Gem of Learning,” who, + according to the runes of Rama, verifies the selection. If he is in + agreement with it, he sends a secret letter to the Dalai Lama, who holds a + special sacrifice in the Temple of the ‘Spirit of the Mountains’ and + confirms the election by putting his great seal on this letter of the + Tashi Lama. + </p> + <p> + “If the old Living Buddha be still alive, the name of his successor is + kept a deep secret; if the Spirit of Buddha has already gone out from the + body of Bogdo Khan, a special legation appears from Tibet with the new + Living Buddha. The same process accompanies the election of the Gheghen + and Hutuktus in all the Lamaite monasteries in Mongolia; but confirmation + of the election resides with the Living Buddha and is only announced to + Lhasa after the event.” + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0044" id="link2HCH0044"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XLIV + </h2> + <h3> + A PAGE IN THE HISTORY OF THE PRESENT LIVING BUDDHA + </h3> + <p> + The present Bogdo Khan of Outer Mongolia is a Tibetan. He sprang from a + poor family living in the neighborhood of Sakkia Kure in western Tibet. + From earliest youth he had a stormy, quite unaesthetic nature. He was + fired with the idea of the independence and glorification of Mongolia and + the successors of Jenghiz Khan. This gave him at once a great influence + among the Lamas, Princes and Khans of Mongolia and also with the Russian + Government which always tried to attract him to their side. He did not + fear to arraign himself against the Manchu dynasty in China and always had + the help of Russia, Tibet, the Buriats and Kirghiz, furnishing him with + money, weapons, warriors and diplomatic aid. The Chinese Emperors avoided + open war with the Living God, because it might arouse the protests of the + Chinese Buddhists. At one time they sent to the Bogdo Khan a skilful + doctor-poisoner. The Living Buddha, however, at once understood the + meaning of this medical attention and, knowing the power of Asiatic + poisons, decided to make a journey through the Mongol monasteries and + through Tibet. As his substitute he left a Hubilgan who made friends with + the Chinese doctor and inquired from him the purposes and details of his + arrival. Very soon the Chinese died from some unknown cause and the Living + Buddha returned to his comfortable capital. + </p> + <p> + On another occasion danger threatened the Living God. It was when Lhasa + decided that the Bogdo Khan was carrying out a policy too independent of + Tibet. The Dalai Lama began negotiations with several Khans and Princes + with the Sain Noion Khan and Jassaktu Khan leading the movement and + persuaded them to accelerate the immigration of the Spirit of Buddha into + another human form. They came to Urga where the Bogdo Khan met them with + honors and rejoicings. A great feast was made for them and the + conspirators already felt themselves the accomplishers of the orders of + the Dalai Lama. However, at the end of the feast, they had different + feelings and died with them during the night. The Living Buddha ordered + their bodies sent with full honors to their families. + </p> + <p> + The Bogdo Khan knows every thought, every movement of the Princes and + Khans, the slightest conspiracy against himself, and the offender is + usually kindly invited to Urga, from where he does not return alive. + </p> + <p> + The Chinese Government decided to terminate the line of the Living + Buddhas. Ceasing to fight with the Pontiff of Urga, the Government + contrived the following scheme for accomplishing its ends. + </p> + <p> + Peking invited the Pandita Gheghen from Dolo Nor and the head of the + Chinese Lamaites, the Hutuktu of Utai, both of whom do not recognize the + supremacy of the Living Buddha, to come to the capital. They decided, + after consulting the old Buddhistic books, that the present Bogdo Khan was + to be the last Living Buddha, because that part of the Spirit of Buddha + which dwells in the Bogdo Khans can abide only thirty-one times in the + human body. Bogdo Khan is the thirty-first Incarnated Buddha from the time + of Undur Gheghen and with him, therefore, the dynasty of the Urga Pontiffs + must cease. However, on hearing this the Bogdo Khan himself did some + research work and found in the old Tibetan manuscripts that one of the + Tibetan Pontiffs was married and his son was a natural Incarnated Buddha. + So the Bogdo Khan married and now has a son, a very capable and energetic + young man, and thus the religious throne of Jenghiz Khan will not be left + empty. The dynasty of the Chinese emperors disappeared from the stage of + political events but the Living Buddha continues to be a center for the + Pan-Asiatic idea. + </p> + <p> + The new Chinese Government in 1920 held the Living Buddha under arrest in + his palace but at the beginning of 1921 Baron Ungern crossed the sacred + Bogdo-Ol and approached the palace from the rear. Tibetan riders shot the + Chinese sentries with bow and arrow and afterwards the Mongols penetrated + into the palace and stole their “God,” who immediately stirred up all + Mongolia and awakened the hopes of the Asiatic peoples and tribes. + </p> + <p> + In the great palace of the Bogdo a Lama showed me a special casket covered + with a precious carpet, wherein they keep the bulls of the Dalai and Tashi + Lamas, the decrees of the Russian and Chinese Emperors and the Treaties + between Mongolia, Russia, China and Tibet. In this same casket is the + copper plate bearing the mysterious sign of the “King of the World” and + the chronicle of the last vision of the Living Buddha. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0045" id="link2HCH0045"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XLV + </h2> + <h3> + THE VISION OF THE LIVING BUDDHA OF MAY 17, 1921 + </h3> + <p> + “I prayed and saw that which is hidden from the eyes of the people. A vast + plain was spread before me surrounded by distant mountains. An old Lama + carried a basket filled with heavy stones. He hardly moved. From the north + a rider appeared in white robes and mounted on a white horse. He + approached the Lama and said to him: + </p> + <p> + “‘Give me your basket. I shall help you to carry them to the Kure.’ + </p> + <p> + “The Lama handed his heavy burden up to him but the rider could not raise + it to his saddle so that the old Lama had to place it back on his shoulder + and continue on his way, bent under its heavy weight. Then from the north + came another rider in black robes and on a black horse, who also + approached the Lama and said: + </p> + <p> + “‘Stupid! Why do you carry these stones when they are everywhere about the + ground?’ + </p> + <p> + “With these words he pushed the Lama over with the breast of his horse and + scattered the stones about the ground. When the stones touched the earth, + they became diamonds. All three rushed to raise them but not one of them + could break them loose from the ground. Then the old Lama exclaimed: + </p> + <p> + “‘Oh Gods! All my life I have carried this heavy burden and now, when + there was left so little to go, I have lost it. Help me, great, good + Gods!’ + </p> + <p> + “Suddenly a tottering old man appeared. He collected all the diamonds into + the basket without trouble, cleaned the dust from them, raised the burden + to his shoulder and started out, speaking with the Lama: + </p> + <p> + “‘Rest a while, I have just carried my burden to the goal and I am glad to + help you with yours.’ + </p> + <p> + “They went on and were soon out of sight, while the riders began to fight. + They fought one whole day and then the whole night and, when the sun rose + over the plain, neither was there, either alive or dead, and no trace of + either remained. This I saw, Bogdo Hutuktu Khan, speaking with the Great + and Wise Buddha, surrounded by the good and bad demons! Wise Lamas, + Hutuktus, Kampos, Marambas and Holy Gheghens, give the answer to my + vision!” + </p> + <p> + This was written in my presence on May 17th, 1921, from the words of the + Living Buddha just as he came out of his private shrine to his study. I do + not know what the Hutuktu and Gheghens, the fortune tellers, sorcerers and + clairvoyants replied to him; but does not the answer seem clear, if one + realizes the present situation in Asia? + </p> + <p> + Awakened Asia is full of enigmas but it is also full of answers to the + questions set by the destiny of humankind. This great continent of + mysterious Pontiffs, Living Gods, Mahatmas and readers of the terrible + book of Karma is awakening and the ocean of hundreds of millions of human + lives is lashed with monstrous waves. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_PART5" id="link2H_PART5"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Part V + </h2> + <h3> + MYSTERY OF MYSTERIES—THE KING OF THE WORLD + </h3> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0046" id="link2HCH0046"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XLVI + </h2> + <h3> + THE SUBTERRANEAN KINGDOM + </h3> + <p> + “Stop!” whispered my old Mongol guide, as we were one day crossing the + plain near Tzagan Luk. “Stop!” + </p> + <p> + He slipped from his camel which lay down without his bidding. The Mongol + raised his hands in prayer before his face and began to repeat the sacred + phrase: “Om! Mani padme Hung!” The other Mongols immediately stopped their + camels and began to pray. + </p> + <p> + “What has happened?” I thought, as I gazed round over the tender green + grass, up to the cloudless sky and out toward the dreamy soft rays of the + evening sun. + </p> + <p> + The Mongols prayed for some time, whispered among themselves and, after + tightening up the packs on the camels, moved on. + </p> + <p> + “Did you see,” asked the Mongol, “how our camels moved their ears in fear? + How the herd of horses on the plain stood fixed in attention and how the + herds of sheep and cattle lay crouched close to the ground? Did you notice + that the birds did not fly, the marmots did not run and the dogs did not + bark? The air trembled softly and bore from afar the music of a song which + penetrated to the hearts of men, animals and birds alike. Earth and sky + ceased breathing. The wind did not blow and the sun did not move. At such + a moment the wolf that is stealing up on the sheep arrests his stealthy + crawl; the frightened herd of antelopes suddenly checks its wild course; + the knife of the shepherd cutting the sheep’s throat falls from his hand; + the rapacious ermine ceases to stalk the unsuspecting salga. All living + beings in fear are involuntarily thrown into prayer and waiting for their + fate. So it was just now. Thus it has always been whenever the King of the + World in his subterranean palace prays and searches out the destiny of all + peoples on the earth.” + </p> + <p> + In this wise the old Mongol, a simple, coarse shepherd and hunter, spoke + to me. + </p> + <p> + Mongolia with her nude and terrible mountains, her limitless plains, + covered with the widely strewn bones of the forefathers, gave birth to + Mystery. Her people, frightened by the stormy passions of Nature or lulled + by her deathlike peace, feel her mystery. Her “Red” and “Yellow Lamas” + preserve and poetize her mystery. The Pontiffs of Lhasa and Urga know and + possess her mystery. + </p> + <p> + On my journey into Central Asia I came to know for the first time about + “the Mystery of Mysteries,” which I can call by no other name. At the + outset I did not pay much attention to it and did not attach to it such + importance as I afterwards realized belonged to it, when I had analyzed + and connoted many sporadic, hazy and often controversial bits of evidence. + </p> + <p> + The old people on the shore of the River Amyl related to me an ancient + legend to the effect that a certain Mongolian tribe in their escape from + the demands of Jenghiz Khan hid themselves in a subterranean country. + Afterwards a Soyot from near the Lake of Nogan Kul showed me the smoking + gate that serves as the entrance to the “Kingdom of Agharti.” Through this + gate a hunter formerly entered into the Kingdom and, after his return, + began to relate what he had seen there. The Lamas cut out his tongue in + order to prevent him from telling about the Mystery of Mysteries. When he + arrived at old age, he came back to the entrance of this cave and + disappeared into the subterranean kingdom, the memory of which had + ornamented and lightened his nomad heart. + </p> + <p> + I received more realistic information about this from Hutuktu Jelyb + Djamsrap in Narabanchi Kure. He told me the story of the semi-realistic + arrival of the powerful King of the World from the subterranean kingdom, + of his appearance, of his miracles and of his prophecies; and only then + did I begin to understand that in that legend, hypnosis or mass vision, + whichever it may be, is hidden not only mystery but a realistic and + powerful force capable of influencing the course of the political life of + Asia. From that moment I began making some investigations. + </p> + <p> + The favorite Gelong Lama of Prince Chultun Beyli and the Prince himself + gave me an account of the subterranean kingdom. + </p> + <p> + “Everything in the world,” said the Gelong, “is constantly in a state of + change and transition—peoples science, religions, laws and customs. + How many great empires and brilliant cultures have perished! And that + alone which remains unchanged is Evil, the tool of Bad Spirits. More than + sixty thousand years ago a Holyman disappeared with a whole tribe of + people under the ground and never appeared again on the surface of the + earth. Many people, however, have since visited this kingdom, Sakkia + Mouni, Undur Gheghen, Paspa, Khan Baber and others. No one knows where + this place is. One says Afghanistan, others India. All the people there + are protected against Evil and crimes do not exist within its bournes. + Science has there developed calmly and nothing is threatened with + destruction. The subterranean people have reached the highest knowledge. + Now it is a large kingdom, millions of men with the King of the World as + their ruler. He knows all the forces of the world and reads all the souls + of humankind and the great book of their destiny. Invisibly he rules eight + hundred million men on the surface of the earth and they will accomplish + his every order.” + </p> + <p> + Prince Chultun Beyli added: “This kingdom is Agharti. It extends + throughout all the subterranean passages of the whole world. I heard a + learned Lama of China relating to Bogdo Khan that all the subterranean + caves of America are inhabited by the ancient people who have disappeared + underground. Traces of them are still found on the surface of the land. + These subterranean peoples and spaces are governed by rulers owing + allegiance to the King of the World. In it there is not much of the + wonderful. You know that in the two greatest oceans of the east and the + west there were formerly two continents. They disappeared under the water + but their people went into the subterranean kingdom. In underground caves + there exists a peculiar light which affords growth to the grains and + vegetables and long life without disease to the people. There are many + different peoples and many different tribes. An old Buddhist Brahman in + Nepal was carrying out the will of the Gods in making a visit to the + ancient kingdom of Jenghiz,—Siam,—where he met a fisherman who + ordered him to take a place in his boat and sail with him upon the sea. On + the third day they reached an island where he met a people having two + tongues which could speak separately in different languages. They showed + to him peculiar, unfamiliar animals, tortoises with sixteen feet and one + eye, huge snakes with a very tasty flesh and birds with teeth which caught + fish for their masters in the sea. These people told him that they had + come up out of the subterranean kingdom and described to him certain parts + of the underground country.” + </p> + <p> + The Lama Turgut traveling with me from Urga to Peking gave me further + details. + </p> + <p> + “The capital of Agharti is surrounded with towns of high priests and + scientists. It reminds one of Lhasa where the palace of the Dalai Lama, + the Potala, is the top of a mountain covered with monasteries and temples. + The throne of the King of the World is surrounded by millions of + incarnated Gods. They are the Holy Panditas. The palace itself is + encircled by the palaces of the Goro, who possess all the visible and + invisible forces of the earth, of inferno and of the sky and who can do + everything for the life and death of man. If our mad humankind should + begin a war against them, they would be able to explode the whole surface + of our planet and transform it into deserts. They can dry up the seas, + transform lands into oceans and scatter the mountains into the sands of + the deserts. By his order trees, grasses and bushes can be made to grow; + old and feeble men can become young and stalwart; and the dead can be + resurrected. In cars strange and unknown to us they rush through the + narrow cleavages inside our planet. Some Indian Brahmans and Tibetan Dalai + Lamas during their laborious struggles to the peaks of mountains which no + other human feet had trod have found there inscriptions carved on the + rocks, footprints in the snow and the tracks of wheels. The blissful + Sakkia Mouni found on one mountain top tablets of stone carrying words + which he only understood in his old age and afterwards penetrated into the + Kingdom of Agharti, from which he brought back crumbs of the sacred + learning preserved in his memory. There in palaces of wonderful crystal + live the invisible rulers of all pious people, the King of the World or + Brahytma, who can speak with God as I speak with you, and his two + assistants, Mahytma, knowing the purposes of future events, and Mahynga, + ruling the causes of these events.” + </p> + <p> + “The Holy Panditas study the world and all its forces. Sometimes the most + learned among them collect together and send envoys to that place where + the human eyes have never penetrated. This is described by the Tashi Lama + living eight hundred and fifty years ago. The highest Panditas place their + hands on their eyes and at the base of the brain of younger ones and force + them into a deep sleep, wash their bodies with an infusion of grass and + make them immune to pain and harder than stones, wrap them in magic + cloths, bind them and then pray to the Great God. The petrified youths lie + with eyes and ears open and alert, seeing, hearing and remembering + everything. Afterwards a Goro approaches and fastens a long, steady gaze + upon them. Very slowly the bodies lift themselves from the earth and + disappear. The Goro sits and stares with fixed eyes to the place whither + he has sent them. Invisible threads join them to his will. Some of them + course among the stars, observe their events, their unknown peoples, their + life and their laws. They listen to their talk, read their books, + understand their fortunes and woes, their holiness and sins, their piety + and evil. Some are mingled with flame and see the creature of fire, quick + and ferocious, eternally fighting, melting and hammering metals in the + depths of planets, boiling the water for geysers and springs, melting the + rocks and pushing out molten streams over the surface of the earth through + the holes in the mountains. Others rush together with the ever elusive, + infinitesimally small, transparent creatures of the air and penetrate into + the mysteries of their existence and into the purposes of their life. + Others slip into the depths of the seas and observe the kingdom of the + wise creatures of the water, who transport and spread genial warmth all + over the earth, ruling the winds, waves and storms. . . . In Erdeni Dzu + formerly lived Pandita Hutuktu, who had come from Agharti. As he was + dying, he told about the time when he lived according to the will of the + Goro on a red star in the east, floated in the ice-covered ocean and flew + among the stormy fires in the depths of the earth.” + </p> + <p> + These are the tales which I heard in the Mongolian yurtas of Princes and + in the Lamaite monasteries. These stories were all related in a solemn + tone which forbade challenge and doubt. + </p> + <p> + Mystery. . . . + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0047" id="link2HCH0047"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XLVII + </h2> + <h3> + THE KING OF THE WORLD BEFORE THE FACE OF GOD + </h3> + <p> + During my stay in Urga I tried to find an explanation of this legend about + the King of the World. Of course, the Living Buddha could tell me most of + all and so I endeavored to get the story from him. In a conversation with + him I mentioned the name of the King of the World. The old Pontiff sharply + turned his head toward me and fixed upon me his immobile, blind eyes. + Unwillingly I became silent. Our silence was a long one and after it the + Pontiff continued the conversation in such a way that I understood he did + not wish to accept the suggestion of my reference. On the faces of the + others present I noticed expressions of astonishment and fear produced by + my words, and especially was this true of the custodian of the library of + the Bogdo Khan. One can readily understand that all this only made me the + more anxious to press the pursuit. + </p> + <p> + As I was leaving the study of the Bogdo Hutuktu, I met the librarian who + had stepped out ahead of me and asked him if he would show me the library + of the Living Buddha and used a very simple, sly trick with him. + </p> + <p> + “Do you know, my dear Lama,” I said, “once I rode in the plain at the hour + when the King of the World spoke with God and I felt the impressive + majesty of this moment.” + </p> + <p> + To my astonishment the old Lama very quietly answered me: “It is not right + that the Buddhist and our Yellow Faith should conceal it. The + acknowledgment of the existence of the most holy and most powerful man, of + the blissful kingdom, of the great temple of sacred science is such a + consolation to our sinful hearts and our corrupt lives that to conceal it + from humankind is a sin. . . . Well, listen,” he continued, “throughout + the whole year the King of the World guides the work of the Panditas and + Goros of Agharti. Only at times he goes to the temple cave where the + embalmed body of his predecessor lies in a black stone coffin. This cave + is always dark, but when the King of the World enters it the walls are + striped with fire and from the lid of the coffin appear tongues of flame. + The eldest Goro stands before him with covered head and face and with + hands folded across his chest. This Goro never removes the covering from + his face, for his head is a nude skull with living eyes and a tongue that + speaks. He is in communion with the souls of all who have gone before. + </p> + <p> + “The King of the World prays for a long time and afterwards approaches the + coffin and stretches out his hand. The flames thereon burn brighter; the + stripes of fire on the walls disappear and revive, interlace and form + mysterious signs from the alphabet vatannan. From the coffin transparent + bands of scarcely noticeable light begin to flow forth. These are the + thoughts of his predecessor. Soon the King of the World stands surrounded + by an auriole of this light and fiery letters write and write upon the + walls the wishes and orders of God. At this moment the King of the World + is in contact with the thoughts of all the men who influence the lot and + life of all humankind: with Kings, Czars, Khans, warlike leaders, High + Priests, scientists and other strong men. He realizes all their thoughts + and plans. If these be pleasing before God, the King of the World will + invisibly help them; if they are unpleasant in the sight of God, the King + will bring them to destruction. This power is given to Agharti by the + mysterious science of ‘Om,’ with which we begin all our prayers. ‘Om’ is + the name of an ancient Holyman, the first Goro, who lived three hundred + thirty thousand years ago. He was the first man to know God and who taught + humankind to believe, hope and struggle with Evil. Then God gave him power + over all forces ruling the visible world. + </p> + <p> + “After his conversation with his predecessor the King of the World + assembles the ‘Great Council of God,’ judges the actions and thoughts of + great men, helps them or destroys them. Mahytma and Mahynga find the place + for these actions and thoughts in the causes ruling the world. Afterwards + the King of the World enters the great temple and prays in solitude. Fire + appears on the altar, gradually spreading to all the altars near, and + through the burning flame gradually appears the face of God. The King of + the World reverently announces to God the decisions and awards of the + ‘Council of God’ and receives in turn the Divine orders of the Almighty. + As he comes forth from the temple, the King of the World radiates with + Divine Light.” + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0048" id="link2HCH0048"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XLVIII + </h2> + <h3> + REALITY OR RELIGIOUS FANTASY? + </h3> + <p> + “Has anybody seen the King of the World?” I asked. + </p> + <p> + “Oh, yes!” answered the Lama. “During the solemn holidays of the ancient + Buddhism in Siam and India the King of the World appeared five times. He + rode in a splendid car drawn by white elephants and ornamented with gold, + precious stones and finest fabrics; he was robed in a white mantle and red + tiara with strings of diamonds masking his face. He blessed the people + with a golden apple with the figure of a Lamb above it. The blind received + their sight, the dumb spoke, the deaf heard, the crippled freely moved and + the dead arose, wherever the eyes of the King of the World rested. He also + appeared five hundred and forty years ago in Erdeni Dzu, he was in the + ancient Sakkai Monastery and in the Narabanchi Kure. + </p> + <p> + “One of our Living Buddhas and one of the Tashi Lamas received a message + from him, written with unknown signs on golden tablets. No one could read + these signs. The Tashi Lama entered the temple, placed the golden tablet + on his head and began to pray. With this the thoughts of the King of the + World penetrated his brain and, without having read the enigmatical signs, + he understood and accomplished the message of the King.” + </p> + <p> + “How many persons have ever been to Agharti?” I questioned him. + </p> + <p> + “Very many,” answered the Lama, “but all these people have kept secret + that which they saw there. When the Olets destroyed Lhasa, one of their + detachments in the southwestern mountains penetrated to the outskirts of + Agharti. Here they learned some of the lesser mysterious sciences and + brought them to the surface of our earth. This is why the Olets and + Kalmucks are artful sorcerers and prophets. Also from the eastern country + some tribes of black people penetrated to Agharti and lived there many + centuries. Afterwards they were thrust out from the kingdom and returned + to the earth, bringing with them the mystery of predictions according to + cards, grasses and the lines of the palm. They are the Gypsies. . . . + Somewhere in the north of Asia a tribe exists which is now dying and which + came from the cave of Agharti, skilled in calling back the spirits of the + dead as they float through the air.” + </p> + <p> + The Lama was silent and afterwards, as though answering my thoughts, + continued. + </p> + <p> + “In Agharti the learned Panditas write on tablets of stone all the science + of our planet and of the other worlds. The Chinese learned Buddhists know + this. Their science is the highest and purest. Every century one hundred + sages of China collect in a secret place on the shores of the sea, where + from its depths come out one hundred eternally-living tortoises. On their + shells the Chinese write all the developments of the divine science of the + century.” + </p> + <p> + As I write I am involuntarily reminded of a tale of an old Chinese bonze + in the Temple of Heaven at Peking. He told me that tortoises live more + than three thousand years without food and air and that this is the reason + why all the columns of the blue Temple of Heaven were set on live + tortoises to preserve the wood from decay. + </p> + <p> + “Several times the Pontiffs of Lhasa and Urga have sent envoys to the King + of the World,” said the Lama librarian, “but they could not find him. Only + a certain Tibetan leader after a battle with the Olets found the cave with + the inscription: ‘This is the gate to Agharti.’ From the cave a fine + appearing man came forth, presented him with a gold tablet bearing the + mysterious signs and said: + </p> + <p> + “‘The King of the World will appear before all people when the time shall + have arrived for him to lead all the good people of the world against all + the bad; but this time has not yet come. The most evil among mankind have + not yet been born. + </p> + <p> + “Chiang Chun Baron Ungern sent the young Prince Pounzig to seek out the + King of the World but he returned with a letter from the Dalai Lama from + Lhasa. When the Baron sent him a second time, he did not come back.” + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0049" id="link2HCH0049"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XLIX + </h2> + <h3> + THE PROPHECY OF THE KING OF THE WORLD IN 1890 + </h3> + <p> + The Hutuktu of Narabanchi related the following to me, when I visited him + in his monastery in the beginning of 1921: + </p> + <p> + “When the King of the World appeared before the Lamas, favored of God, in + this monastery thirty years ago he made a prophecy for the coming half + century. It was as follows: + </p> + <p> + “‘More and more the people will forget their souls and care about their + bodies. The greatest sin and corruption will reign on the earth. People + will become as ferocious animals, thirsting for the blood and death of + their brothers. The ‘Crescent’ will grow dim and its followers will + descend into beggary and ceaseless war. Its conquerors will be stricken by + the sun but will not progress upward and twice they will be visited with + the heaviest misfortune, which will end in insult before the eye of the + other peoples. The crowns of kings, great and small, will fall . . . one, + two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight. . . . There will be a terrible + battle among all the peoples. The seas will become red . . . the earth and + the bottom of the seas will be strewn with bones . . . kingdoms will be + scattered . . . whole peoples will die . . . hunger, disease, crimes + unknown to the law, never before seen in the world. The enemies of God and + of the Divine Spirit in man will come. Those who take the hand of another + shall also perish. The forgotten and pursued shall rise and hold the + attention of the whole world. There will be fogs and storms. Bare + mountains shall suddenly be covered with forests. Earthquakes will come. . + . . Millions will change the fetters of slavery and humiliation for + hunger, disease and death. The ancient roads will be covered with crowds + wandering from one place to another. The greatest and most beautiful + cities shall perish in fire . . . one, two, three. . . . Father shall rise + against son, brother against brother and mother against daughter. . . . + Vice, crime and the destruction of body and soul shall follow. . . . + Families shall be scattered. . . . Truth and love shall disappear. . . . + From ten thousand men one shall remain; he shall be nude and mad and + without force and the knowledge to build him a house and find his food. . + . . He will howl as the raging wolf, devour dead bodies, bite his own + flesh and challenge God to fight. . . . All the earth will be emptied. God + will turn away from it and over it there will be only night and death. + Then I shall send a people, now unknown, which shall tear out the weeds of + madness and vice with a strong hand and will lead those who still remain + faithful to the spirit of man in the fight against Evil. They will found a + new life on the earth purified by the death of nations. In the fiftieth + year only three great kingdoms will appear, which will exist happily + seventy-one years. Afterwards there will be eighteen years of war and + destruction. Then the peoples of Agharti will come up from their + subterranean caverns to the surface of the earth.’” + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + Afterwards, as I traveled farther through Eastern Mongolia and to Peking, + I often thought: + </p> + <p> + “And what if . . . ? What if whole peoples of different colors, faiths and + tribes should begin their migration toward the West?” + </p> + <p> + And now, as I write these final lines, my eyes involuntarily turn to this + limitless Heart of Asia over which the trails of my wanderings twine. + Through whirling snow and driving clouds of sand of the Gobi they travel + back to the face of the Narabanchi Hutuktu as, with quiet voice and a + slender hand pointing to the horizon, he opened to me the doors of his + innermost thoughts: + </p> + <p> + “Near Karakorum and on the shores of Ubsa Nor I see the huge, + multi-colored camps, the herds of horses and cattle and the blue yurtas of + the leaders. Above them I see the old banners of Jenghiz Khan, of the + Kings of Tibet, Siam, Afghanistan and of Indian Princes; the sacred signs + of all the Lamaite Pontiffs; the coats of arms of the Khans of the Olets; + and the simple signs of the north Mongolian tribes. I do not hear the + noise of the animated crowd. The singers do not sing the mournful songs of + mountain, plain and desert. The young riders are not delighting themselves + with the races on their fleet steeds. . . . There are innumerable crowds + of old men, women and children and beyond in the north and west, as far as + the eye can reach, the sky is red as a flame, there is the roar and + crackling of fire and the ferocious sound of battle. Who is leading these + warriors who there beneath the reddened sky are shedding their own and + others’ blood? Who is leading these crowds of unarmed old men and women? I + see severe order, deep religious understanding of purposes, patience and + tenacity . . . a new great migration of peoples, the last march of the + Mongols. . . .” + </p> + <p> + Karma may have opened a new page of history! + </p> + <p> + And what if the King of the World be with them? + </p> + <p> + But this greatest Mystery of Mysteries keeps its own deep silence. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_GLOS" id="link2H_GLOS"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + GLOSSARY + </h2> + <p> + Agronome.—Russian for trained agriculturalist. + </p> + <p> + Amour sayn.—Good-bye. + </p> + <p> + Ataman.—Headman or chief of the Cossacks. + </p> + <p> + Bandi.—Pupil or student of theological school in the Buddhist faith. + </p> + <p> + Buriat.—The most civilized Mongol tribe, living in the valley of the + Selenga in Transbaikalia. + </p> + <p> + Chahars.—A warlike Mongolian tribe living along the Great Wall of + China in Inner Mongolia. + </p> + <p> + Chaidje.—A high Lamaite priest, but not an incarnate god. + </p> + <p> + Cheka.—The Bolshevik Counter-Revolutionary Committee, the most + relentless establishment of the Bolsheviki, organized for the persecution + of the enemies of the Communistic government in Russia. + </p> + <p> + Chiang Chun.—Chinese for “General”—Chief of all Chinese troops + in Mongolia. + </p> + <p> + Dalai Lama.—The first and highest Pontiff of the Lamaite or “Yellow + Faith,” living at Lhasa in Tibet. + </p> + <p> + Djungar.—A West Mongolian tribe. + </p> + <p> + Dugun.—Chinese commercial and military post. + </p> + <p> + Dzuk.—Lie down! + </p> + <p> + Fang-tzu.—Chinese for “house.” + </p> + <p> + Fatil.—A very rare and precious root much prized in Chinese and + Tibetan medicines. + </p> + <p> + Felcher.—Assistant of a doctor (surgeon). + </p> + <p> + Gelong.—Lamaite priest having the right to offer sacrifices to God. + </p> + <p> + Getul.—The third rank in the Lamaite monks. + </p> + <p> + Goro.—The high priest of the King of the World. + </p> + <p> + Hatyk.—An oblong piece of blue (or yellow) silk cloth, presented to + honored guests, chiefs, Lamas and gods. Also a kind of coin, worth from 25 + to 50 cents. + </p> + <p> + Hong.—A Chinese mercantile establishment. + </p> + <p> + Hun.—The lowest rank of princes. + </p> + <p> + Hunghutze.—Chinese brigand. + </p> + <p> + Hushun.—A fenced enclosure, containing the houses, paddocks, stores, + stables, etc., of Russian Cossacks in Mongolia. + </p> + <p> + Hutuktu.—The highest rank of Lamaite monks; the form of any + incarnated god; holy. + </p> + <p> + Imouran.—A small rodent like a gopher. + </p> + <p> + Izubr.—The American elk. + </p> + <p> + Kabarga.—The musk antelope. + </p> + <p> + Kalmuck.—A Mongolian tribe, which migrated from Mongolia under + Jenghiz Khan (where they were known as the Olets or Eleuths), and now live + in the Urals and on the shores of the Volga in Russia. + </p> + <p> + Kanpo.—The abbot of a Lamaite monastery, a monk; also the first rank + of “white” clergy (not monks). + </p> + <p> + Kanpo-Gelong.—The highest rank of Gelongs (q.v.); an honorary title. + </p> + <p> + Karma.—The Buddhist materialization of the idea of Fate, a parallel + with the Greek and Roman Nemesis (Justice). + </p> + <p> + Khan.—A king. + </p> + <p> + Khayrus.—A kind of trout. + </p> + <p> + Khirghiz.—The great Mongol nation living between the river Irtish in + western Siberia, Lake Balhash and the Volga in Russia. + </p> + <p> + Kuropatka.—A partridge. + </p> + <p> + Lama.—The common name for a Lamaite priest. + </p> + <p> + Lan.—A weight of silver or gold equivalent to about one-eleventh of + a Russian pound, or 9/110ths of a pound avoirdupois. + </p> + <p> + Lanhon.—A round bottle of clay. + </p> + <p> + Maramba.—A doctor of theology. + </p> + <p> + Merin.—The civil chief of police in every district of the Soyot + country in Urianhai. + </p> + <p> + “Om! Mani padme Hung!”.—“Om” has two meanings. It is the name of the + first Goro and also means: “Hail!” In this connection: “Hail! Great Lama + in the Lotus Flower!” + </p> + <p> + Mende.—Soyot greeting—“Good Day.” + </p> + <p> + Nagan-hushun.—A Chinese vegetable garden or enclosure in Mongolia. + </p> + <p> + Naida.—A form of fire used by Siberian woodsmen. + </p> + <p> + Noyon.—A Prince or Khan. In polite address: “Chief,” “Excellency.” + </p> + <p> + Obo.—The sacred and propitiatory signs in all the dangerous places + in Urianhai and Mongolia. + </p> + <p> + Olets.—Vid: Kalmuck. + </p> + <p> + Om.—The name of the first Goro (q.v.) and also of the mysterious, + magic science of the Subterranean State. It means, also: “Hail!” + </p> + <p> + Orochons.—A Mongolian tribe, living near the shores of the Amur + River in Siberia. + </p> + <p> + Oulatchen.—The guard for the post horses; official guide. + </p> + <p> + Ourton.—A post station, where the travelers change horses and + oulatchens. + </p> + <p> + Pandita.—The high rank of Buddhist monks. + </p> + <p> + Panti.—Deer horns in the velvet, highly prized as a Tibetan and + Chinese medicine. + </p> + <p> + Pogrom.—A wholesale slaughter of unarmed people; a massacre. + </p> + <p> + Paspa.—The founder of the Yellow Sect, predominating now in the + Lamaite faith. + </p> + <p> + Sait.—A Mongolian governor. + </p> + <p> + Salga.—A sand partridge. + </p> + <p> + Sayn.—“Good day!” “Good morning!” “Good evening!” All right; good. + </p> + <p> + Taiga.—A Siberian word for forest. + </p> + <p> + Taimen.—A species of big trout, reaching 120 pounds. + </p> + <p> + Ta Lama.—Literally: “the great priest,” but it means now “a doctor + of medicine.” + </p> + <p> + Tashur.—A strong bamboo stick. + </p> + <p> + Turpan.—The red wild goose or Lama-goose. + </p> + <p> + Tzagan.—White. + </p> + <p> + Tzara.—A document, giving the right to receive horses and oulatchens + at the post stations. + </p> + <p> + Tsirik.—Mongolian soldiers mobilized by levy. + </p> + <p> + Tzuren.—A doctor-poisoner. + </p> + <p> + Ulan.—Red. + </p> + <p> + Urga.—The name of the capital of Mongolia; (2) a kind of Mongolian + lasso. + </p> + <p> + Vatannen.—The language of the Subterranean State of the King of the + World. + </p> + <p> + Wapiti.—The American elk. + </p> + <p> + Yurta.—The common Mongolian tent or house, made of felt. + </p> + <p> + Zahachine.—A West Mongolian wandering tribe. + </p> + <p> + Zaberega.—The ice-mountains formed along the shores of a river in + spring. + </p> + <p> + Zikkurat.—A high tower of Babylonish style. + </p> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg’s Beasts, Men and Gods, by Ferdinand Ossendowski + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BEASTS, MEN AND GODS *** + +***** This file should be named 2067-h.htm or 2067-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/2/0/6/2067/ + +Produced by Donald Lainson; David Widger + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Beasts, Men and Gods + +Author: Ferdinand Ossendowski + +Translator: Lewis Stanton Palen + +Release Date: May 13, 2006 [EBook #2067] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BEASTS, MEN AND GODS *** + + + + +Produced by Donald Lainson + + + + + +BEASTS, MEN AND GODS + +by Ferdinand Ossendowski + + + + +EXPLANATORY NOTE + + +When one of the leading publicists in America, Dr. Albert Shaw of +the Review of Reviews, after reading the manuscript of Part I of +this volume, characterized the author as "The Robinson Crusoe of the +Twentieth Century," he touched the feature of the narrative which is at +once most attractive and most dangerous; for the succession of trying +and thrilling experiences recorded seems in places too highly colored +to be real or, sometimes, even possible in this day and generation. +I desire, therefore, to assure the reader at the outset that Dr. +Ossendowski is a man of long and diverse experience as a scientist and +writer with a training for careful observation which should put +the stamp of accuracy and reliability on his chronicle. Only the +extraordinary events of these extraordinary times could have thrown one +with so many talents back into the surroundings of the "Cave Man" and +thus given to us this unusual account of personal adventure, of great +human mysteries and of the political and religious motives which are +energizing the "Heart of Asia." + +My share in the work has been to induce Dr. Ossendowski to write his +story at this time and to assist him in rendering his experiences into +English. + +LEWIS STANTON PALEN. + + + + +CONTENTS + + +PART I. DRAWING LOTS WITH DEATH + + +CHAPTER + +I. INTO THE FORESTS + +II. THE SECRET OF MY FELLOW TRAVELER + +III. THE STRUGGLE FOR LIFE + +IV. A FISHERMAN + +V. A DANGEROUS NEIGHBOR + +VI. A RIVER IN TRAVAIL + +VII. THROUGH SOVIET SIBERIA + +VIII. THREE DAYS ON THE EDGE OF A PRECIPICE + +IX. TO THE SAYANS AND SAFETY + +X. THE BATTLE OF THE SEYBI + +XI. THE BARRIER OF RED PARTISANS + +XII. IN THE COUNTRY OF ETERNAL PEACE + +XIII. MYSTERIES, MIRACLES AND A NEW FIGHT + +XIV. THE RIVER OF THE DEVIL + +XV. THE MARCH OF GHOSTS + +XVI. IN MYSTERIOUS TIBET + + + +PART II. THE LAND OF DEMONS + + +XVII. MYSTERIOUS MONGOLIA + +XVIII. THE MYSTERIOUS LAMA AVENGER + +XIX. WILD CHAHARS + +XX. THE DEMON OF JAGISSTAI + +XXI. THE NEST OF DEATH + +XXII. AMONG THE MURDERERS + +XXIII. ON A VOLCANO + +XXIV. A BLOODY CHASTISEMENT + +XXV. HARASSING DAYS + +XXVI. THE BAND OF WHITE HUNGHUTZES + +XXVII. MYSTERY IN A SMALL TEMPLE + +XXVIII. THE BREATH OF DEATH + + + +PART III. THE STRAINING HEART OF ASIA + + +XXIX. ON THE ROAD OF GREAT CONQUERORS + +XXX. ARRESTED! + +XXXI. TRAVELING BY "URGA" + +XXXII. AN OLD FORTUNE TELLER + +XXXIII. "DEATH FROM THE WHITE MAN WILL STAND BEHIND YOU" + +XXXIV. THE HORROR OF WAR! + +XXXV. IN THE CITY OF LIVING GODS, 30,000 BUDDHAS AND 60,000 MONKS + +XXXVI. A SON OF CRUSADERS AND PRIVATEERS + +XXXVII. THE CAMP OF MARTYRS + +XXXVIII. BEFORE THE FACE OF BUDDHA + +XXXIX. "THE MAN WITH A HEAD LIKE A SADDLE" + + + +PART IV. THE LIVING BUDDHA + + +XL. IN THE BLISSFUL GARDEN OF A THOUSAND JOYS + +XLI. THE DUST OF CENTURIES + +XLII. THE BOOKS OF MIRACLES + +XLIII. THE BIRTH OF THE LIVING BUDDHA + +XLIV. A PAGE IN THE HISTORY OF THE PRESENT LIVING BUDDHA + +XLV. THE VISION OF THE LIVING BUDDHA OF MAY 17, 1921 + + + +PART V. MYSTERY OF MYSTERIES--THE KING OF THE WORLD + + +XLVI. THE SUBTERRANEAN KINGDOM + +XLVII. THE KING OF THE WORLD BEFORE THE FACE OF GOD + +XLVIII. REALITY OR RELIGIOUS FANTASY? + +XLIX. THE PROPHECY OF THE KING OF THE WORLD IN 1890 + + +There are times, men and events about which History alone can record the +final judgments; contemporaries and individual observers must only write +what they have seen and heard. The very truth demands it. + +TITUS LIVIUS. + + + + +BEASTS, MEN AND GODS + + + + +Part I + +DRAWING LOTS WITH DEATH + + +CHAPTER I + +INTO THE FORESTS + + +In the beginning of the year 1920 I happened to be living in the +Siberian town of Krasnoyarsk, situated on the shores of the River +Yenisei, that noble stream which is cradled in the sun-bathed mountains +of Mongolia to pour its warming life into the Arctic Ocean and to whose +mouth Nansen has twice come to open the shortest road for commerce from +Europe to the heart of Asia. There in the depths of the still Siberian +winter I was suddenly caught up in the whirling storm of mad revolution +raging all over Russia, sowing in this peaceful and rich land vengeance, +hate, bloodshed and crimes that go unpunished by the law. No one could +tell the hour of his fate. The people lived from day to day and left +their homes not knowing whether they should return to them or whether +they should be dragged from the streets and thrown into the dungeons of +that travesty of courts, the Revolutionary Committee, more terrible +and more bloody than those of the Mediaeval Inquisition. We who were +strangers in this distraught land were not saved from its persecutions +and I personally lived through them. + +One morning, when I had gone out to see a friend, I suddenly received +the news that twenty Red soldiers had surrounded my house to arrest me +and that I must escape. I quickly put on one of my friend's old hunting +suits, took some money and hurried away on foot along the back ways of +the town till I struck the open road, where I engaged a peasant, who in +four hours had driven me twenty miles from the town and set me down +in the midst of a deeply forested region. On the way I bought a rifle, +three hundred cartridges, an ax, a knife, a sheepskin overcoat, tea, +salt, dry bread and a kettle. I penetrated into the heart of the wood to +an abandoned half-burned hut. From this day I became a genuine trapper +but I never dreamed that I should follow this role as long as I did. +The next morning I went hunting and had the good fortune to kill two +heathcock. I found deer tracks in plenty and felt sure that I should not +want for food. However, my sojourn in this place was not for long. Five +days later when I returned from hunting I noticed smoke curling up out +of the chimney of my hut. I stealthily crept along closer to the cabin +and discovered two saddled horses with soldiers' rifles slung to the +saddles. Two disarmed men were not dangerous for me with a weapon, so I +quickly rushed across the open and entered the hut. From the bench +two soldiers started up in fright. They were Bolsheviki. On their big +Astrakhan caps I made out the red stars of Bolshevism and on their +blouses the dirty red bands. We greeted each other and sat down. The +soldiers had already prepared tea and so we drank this ever welcome +hot beverage and chatted, suspiciously eyeing one another the while. +To disarm this suspicion on their part, I told them that I was a hunter +from a distant place and was living there because I found it good +country for sables. They announced to me that they were soldiers of +a detachment sent from a town into the woods to pursue all suspicious +people. + +"Do you understand, 'Comrade,'" said one of them to me, "we are looking +for counter-revolutionists to shoot them?" + +I knew it without his explanations. All my forces were directed to +assuring them by my conduct that I was a simple peasant hunter and that +I had nothing in common with the counter-revolutionists. I was thinking +also all the time of where I should go after the departure of my +unwelcome guests. It grew dark. In the darkness their faces were even +less attractive. They took out bottles of vodka and drank and the +alcohol began to act very noticeably. They talked loudly and constantly +interrupted each other, boasting how many bourgeoisie they had killed +in Krasnoyarsk and how many Cossacks they had slid under the ice in the +river. Afterwards they began to quarrel but soon they were tired and +prepared to sleep. All of a sudden and without any warning the door of +the hut swung wide open and the steam of the heated room rolled out in +a great cloud, out of which seemed to rise like a genie, as the steam +settled, the figure of a tall, gaunt peasant impressively crowned with +the high Astrakhan cap and wrapped in the great sheepskin overcoat that +added to the massiveness of his figure. He stood with his rifle ready +to fire. Under his girdle lay the sharp ax without which the Siberian +peasant cannot exist. Eyes, quick and glimmering like those of a wild +beast, fixed themselves alternately on each of us. In a moment he took +off his cap, made the sign of the cross on his breast and asked of us: +"Who is the master here?" + +I answered him. + +"May I stop the night?" + +"Yes," I replied, "places enough for all. Take a cup of tea. It is still +hot." + +The stranger, running his eyes constantly over all of us and over +everything about the room, began to take off his skin coat after putting +his rifle in the corner. He was dressed in an old leather blouse with +trousers of the same material tucked in high felt boots. His face was +quite young, fine and tinged with something akin to mockery. His white, +sharp teeth glimmered as his eyes penetrated everything they rested +upon. I noticed the locks of grey in his shaggy head. Lines of +bitterness circled his mouth. They showed his life had been very stormy +and full of danger. He took a seat beside his rifle and laid his ax on +the floor below. + +"What? Is it your wife?" asked one of the drunken soldiers, pointing to +the ax. + +The tall peasant looked calmly at him from the quiet eyes under their +heavy brows and as calmly answered: + +"One meets a different folk these days and with an ax it is much safer." + +He began to drink tea very greedily, while his eyes looked at me many +times with sharp inquiry in them and ran often round the whole cabin in +search of the answer to his doubts. Very slowly and with a guarded drawl +he answered all the questions of the soldiers between gulps of the +hot tea, then he turned his glass upside down as evidence of having +finished, placed on the top of it the small lump of sugar left and +remarked to the soldiers: + +"I am going out to look after my horse and will unsaddle your horses for +you also." + +"All right," exclaimed the half-sleeping young soldier, "bring in our +rifles as well." + +The soldiers were lying on the benches and thus left for us only the +floor. The stranger soon came back, brought the rifles and set them in +the dark corner. He dropped the saddle pads on the floor, sat down on +them and began to take off his boots. The soldiers and my guest soon +were snoring but I did not sleep for thinking of what next to do. +Finally as dawn was breaking, I dozed off only to awake in the +broad daylight and find my stranger gone. I went outside the hut and +discovered him saddling a fine bay stallion. + +"Are you going away?" I asked. + +"Yes, but I want to go together with these ---- comrades,'" he +whispered, "and afterwards I shall come back." + +I did not ask him anything further and told him only that I would wait +for him. He took off the bags that had been hanging on his saddle, put +them away out of sight in the burned corner of the cabin, looked over +the stirrups and bridle and, as he finished saddling, smiled and said: + +"I am ready. I'm going to awake my 'comrades.'" Half an hour after the +morning drink of tea, my three guests took their leave. I remained out +of doors and was engaged in splitting wood for my stove. Suddenly, +from a distance, rifle shots rang through the woods, first one, then +a second. Afterwards all was still. From the place near the shots a +frightened covey of blackcock broke and came over me. At the top of a +high pine a jay cried out. I listened for a long time to see if anyone +was approaching my hut but everything was still. + +On the lower Yenisei it grows dark very early. I built a fire in my +stove and began to cook my soup, constantly listening for every noise +that came from beyond the cabin walls. Certainly I understood at all +times very clearly that death was ever beside me and might claim me +by means of either man, beast, cold, accident or disease. I knew that +nobody was near me to assist and that all my help was in the hands of +God, in the power of my hands and feet, in the accuracy of my aim and in +my presence of mind. However, I listened in vain. I did not notice the +return of my stranger. Like yesterday he appeared all at once on the +threshold. Through the steam I made out his laughing eyes and his fine +face. He stepped into the hut and dropped with a good deal of noise +three rifles into the corner. + +"Two horses, two rifles, two saddles, two boxes of dry bread, half a +brick of tea, a small bag of salt, fifty cartridges, two overcoats, two +pairs of boots," laughingly he counted out. "In truth today I had a very +successful hunt." + +In astonishment I looked at him. + +"What are you surprised at?" he laughed. "Komu nujny eti tovarischi? +Who's got any use for these fellows? Let us have tea and go to sleep. +Tomorrow I will guide you to another safer place and then go on." + + +CHAPTER II + +THE SECRET OF MY FELLOW TRAVELER + + +At the dawn of day we started forth, leaving my first place of refuge. +Into the bags we packed our personal estate and fastened them on one of +the saddles. + +"We must go four or five hundred versts," very calmly announced my +fellow traveler, who called himself "Ivan," a name that meant nothing to +my mind or heart in this land where every second man bore the same. + +"We shall travel then for a very long time," I remarked regretfully. + +"Not more than one week, perhaps even less," he answered. + +That night we spent in the woods under the wide spreading branches of +the fir trees. It was my first night in the forest under the open sky. +How many like this I was destined to spend in the year and a half of my +wanderings! During the day there was very sharp cold. Under the hoofs of +the horses the frozen snow crunched and the balls that formed and broke +from their hoofs rolled away over the crust with a sound like crackling +glass. The heathcock flew from the trees very idly, hares loped slowly +down the beds of summer streams. At night the wind began to sigh and +whistle as it bent the tops of the trees over our heads; while below it +was still and calm. We stopped in a deep ravine bordered by heavy trees, +where we found fallen firs, cut them into logs for the fire and, after +having boiled our tea, dined. + +Ivan dragged in two tree trunks, squared them on one side with his ax, +laid one on the other with the squared faces together and then drove in +a big wedge at the butt ends which separated them three or four inches. +Then we placed live coals in this opening and watched the fire run +rapidly the whole length of the squared faces vis-a-vis. + +"Now there will be a fire in the morning," he announced. "This is the +'naida' of the gold prospectors. We prospectors wandering in the woods +summer and winter always sleep beside this 'naida.' Fine! You shall see +for yourself," he continued. + +He cut fir branches and made a sloping roof out of them, resting it on +two uprights toward the naida. Above our roof of boughs and our naida +spread the branches of protecting fir. More branches were brought and +spread on the snow under the roof, on these were placed the saddle +cloths and together they made a seat for Ivan to rest on and to take off +his outer garments down to his blouse. Soon I noticed his forehead was +wet with perspiration and that he was wiping it and his neck on his +sleeves. + +"Now it is good and warm!" he exclaimed. + +In a short time I was also forced to take off my overcoat and soon lay +down to sleep without any covering at all, while through the branches +of the fir trees and our roof glimmered the cold bright stars and +just beyond the naida raged a stinging cold, from which we were cosily +defended. After this night I was no longer frightened by the cold. +Frozen during the days on horseback, I was thoroughly warmed through +by the genial naida at night and rested from my heavy overcoat, sitting +only in my blouse under the roofs of pine and fir and sipping the ever +welcome tea. + +During our daily treks Ivan related to me the stories of his wanderings +through the mountains and woods of Transbaikalia in the search for gold. +These stories were very lively, full of attractive adventure, danger and +struggle. Ivan was a type of these prospectors who have discovered in +Russia, and perhaps in other countries, the richest gold mines, while +they themselves remain beggars. He evaded telling me why he left +Transbaikalia to come to the Yenisei. I understood from his manner that +he wished to keep his own counsel and so did not press him. However, the +blanket of secrecy covering this part of his mysterious life was one day +quite fortuitously lifted a bit. We were already at the objective point +of our trip. The whole day we had traveled with difficulty through a +thick growth of willow, approaching the shore of the big right branch of +the Yenisei, the Mana. Everywhere we saw runways packed hard by the feet +of the hares living in this bush. These small white denizens of the wood +ran to and fro in front of us. Another time we saw the red tail of a fox +hiding behind a rock, watching us and the unsuspecting hares at the same +time. + +Ivan had been silent for a long while. Then he spoke up and told me that +not far from there was a small branch of the Mana, at the mouth of which +was a hut. + +"What do you say? Shall we push on there or spend the night by the +naida?" + +I suggested going to the hut, because I wanted to wash and because it +would be agreeable to spend the night under a genuine roof again. Ivan +knitted his brows but acceded. + +It was growing dark when we approached a hut surrounded by the dense +wood and wild raspberry bushes. It contained one small room with two +microscopic windows and a gigantic Russian stove. Against the building +were the remains of a shed and a cellar. We fired the stove and prepared +our modest dinner. Ivan drank from the bottle inherited from the +soldiers and in a short time was very eloquent, with brilliant eyes and +with hands that coursed frequently and rapidly through his long locks. +He began relating to me the story of one of his adventures, but suddenly +stopped and, with fear in his eyes, squinted into a dark corner. + +"Is it a rat?" he asked. + +"I did not see anything," I replied. + +He again became silent and reflected with knitted brow. Often we were +silent through long hours and consequently I was not astonished. Ivan +leaned over near to me and began to whisper. + +"I want to tell you an old story. I had a friend in Transbaikalia. He +was a banished convict. His name was Gavronsky. Through many woods +and over many mountains we traveled in search of gold and we had an +agreement to divide all we got into even shares. But Gavronsky suddenly +went out to the 'Taiga' on the Yenisei and disappeared. After five years +we heard that he had found a very rich gold mine and had become a rich +man; then later that he and his wife with him had been murdered. . . ." +Ivan was still for a moment and then continued: + +"This is their old hut. Here he lived with his wife and somewhere on +this river he took out his gold. But he told nobody where. All the +peasants around here know that he had a lot of money in the bank +and that he had been selling gold to the Government. Here they were +murdered." + +Ivan stepped to the stove, took out a flaming stick and, bending over, +lighted a spot on the floor. + +"Do you see these spots on the floor and on the wall? It is their +blood, the blood of Gavronsky. They died but they did not disclose the +whereabouts of the gold. It was taken out of a deep hole which they had +drifted into the bank of the river and was hidden in the cellar under +the shed. But Gavronsky gave nothing away. . . . AND LORD HOW I TORTURED +THEM! I burned them with fire; I bent back their fingers; I gouged out +their eyes; but Gavronsky died in silence." + +He thought for a moment, then quickly said to me: + +"I have heard all this from the peasants." He threw the log into the +stove and flopped down on the bench. "It's time to sleep," he snapped +out, and was still. + +I listened for a long time to his breathing and his whispering to +himself, as he turned from one side to the other and smoked his pipe. + +In the morning we left this scene of so much suffering and crime and on +the seventh day of our journey we came to the dense cedar wood growing +on the foothills of a long chain of mountains. + +"From here," Ivan explained to me, "it is eighty versts to the next +peasant settlement. The people come to these woods to gather cedar nuts +but only in the autumn. Before then you will not meet anyone. Also you +will find many birds and beasts and a plentiful supply of nuts, so that +it will be possible for you to live here. Do you see this river? When +you want to find the peasants, follow along this stream and it will +guide you to them." + +Ivan helped me build my mud hut. But it was not the genuine mud hut. It +was one formed by the tearing out of the roots of a great cedar, that +had probably fallen in some wild storm, which made for me the deep hole +as the room for my house and flanked this on one side with a wall of +mud held fast among the upturned roots. Overhanging ones formed also +the framework into which we interlaced the poles and branches to make +a roof, finished off with stones for stability and snow for warmth. +The front of the hut was ever open but was constantly protected by the +guardian naida. In that snow-covered den I spent two months like summer +without seeing any other human being and without touch with the outer +world where such important events were transpiring. In that grave under +the roots of the fallen tree I lived before the face of nature with my +trials and my anxiety about my family as my constant companions, and in +the hard struggle for my life. Ivan went off the second day, leaving for +me a bag of dry bread and a little sugar. I never saw him again. + + +CHAPTER III + +THE STRUGGLE FOR LIFE + + +Then I was alone. Around me only the wood of eternally green cedars +covered with snow, the bare bushes, the frozen river and, as far as I +could see out through the branches and the trunks of the trees, only +the great ocean of cedars and snow. Siberian taiga! How long shall I be +forced to live here? Will the Bolsheviki find me here or not? Will my +friends know where I am? What is happening to my family? These questions +were constantly as burning fires in my brain. Soon I understood why Ivan +guided me so long. We passed many secluded places on the journey, far +away from all people, where Ivan could have safely left me but he always +said that he would take me to a place where it would be easier to live. +And it was so. The charm of my lone refuge was in the cedar wood and +in the mountains covered with these forests which stretched to every +horizon. The cedar is a splendid, powerful tree with wide-spreading +branches, an eternally green tent, attracting to its shelter every +living being. Among the cedars was always effervescent life. There the +squirrels were continually kicking up a row, jumping from tree to tree; +the nut-jobbers cried shrilly; a flock of bullfinches with carmine +breasts swept through the trees like a flame; or a small army of +goldfinches broke in and filled the amphitheatre of trees with their +whistling; a hare scooted from one tree trunk to another and behind him +stole up the hardly visible shadow of a white ermine, crawling on the +snow, and I watched for a long time the black spot which I knew to be +the tip of his tail; carefully treading the hard crusted snow approached +a noble deer; at last there visited me from the top of the mountain the +king of the Siberian forest, the brown bear. All this distracted me +and carried away the black thoughts from my brain, encouraging me to +persevere. It was good for me also, though difficult, to climb to the +top of my mountain, which reached up out of the forest and from which I +could look away to the range of red on the horizon. It was the red cliff +on the farther bank of the Yenisei. There lay the country, the towns, +the enemies and the friends; and there was even the point which I +located as the place of my family. It was the reason why Ivan had guided +me here. And as the days in this solitude slipped by I began to miss +sorely this companion who, though the murderer of Gavronsky, had taken +care of me like a father, always saddling my horse for me, cutting the +wood and doing everything to make me comfortable. He had spent many +winters alone with nothing except his thoughts, face to face with +nature--I should say, before the face of God. He had tried the horrors +of solitude and had acquired facility in bearing them. I thought +sometimes, if I had to meet my end in this place, that I would spend my +last strength to drag myself to the top of the mountain to die there, +looking away over the infinite sea of mountains and forest toward the +point where my loved ones were. + +However, the same life gave me much matter for reflection and yet more +occupation for the physical side. It was a continuous struggle for +existence, hard and severe. The hardest work was the preparation of the +big logs for the naida. The fallen trunks of the trees were covered +with snow and frozen to the ground. I was forced to dig them out and +afterwards, with the help of a long stick as a lever, to move them from +their place. For facilitating this work I chose the mountain for my +supplies, where, although difficult to climb, it was easy to roll the +logs down. Soon I made a splendid discovery. I found near my den a great +quantity of larch, this beautiful yet sad forest giant, fallen during +a big storm. The trunks were covered with snow but remained attached to +their stumps, where they had broken off. When I cut into these stumps +with the ax, the head buried itself and could with difficulty be drawn +and, investigating the reason, I found them filled with pitch. Chips of +this wood needed only a spark to set them aflame and ever afterward I +always had a stock of them to light up quickly for warming my hands on +returning from the hunt or for boiling my tea. + +The greater part of my days was occupied with the hunt. I came to +understand that I must distribute my work over every day, for it +distracted me from my sad and depressing thoughts. Generally, after +my morning tea, I went into the forest to seek heathcock or blackcock. +After killing one or two I began to prepare my dinner, which never had +an extensive menu. It was constantly game soup with a handful of dried +bread and afterwards endless cups of tea, this essential beverage of the +woods. Once, during my search for birds, I heard a rustle in the dense +shrubs and, carefully peering about, I discovered the points of a deer's +horns. I crawled along toward the spot but the watchful animal heard my +approach. With a great noise he rushed from the bush and I saw him very +clearly, after he had run about three hundred steps, stop on the slope +of the mountain. It was a splendid animal with dark grey coat, with +almost a black spine and as large as a small cow. I laid my rifle across +a branch and fired. The animal made a great leap, ran several steps and +fell. With all my strength I ran to him but he got up again and half +jumped, half dragged himself up the mountain. The second shot stopped +him. I had won a warm carpet for my den and a large stock of meat. The +horns I fastened up among the branches of my wall, where they made a +fine hat rack. + +I cannot forget one very interesting but wild picture, which was staged +for me several kilometres from my den. There was a small swamp covered +with grass and cranberries scattered through it, where the blackcock +and sand partridges usually came to feed on the berries. I approached +noiselessly behind the bushes and saw a whole flock of blackcock +scratching in the snow and picking out the berries. While I was +surveying this scene, suddenly one of the blackcock jumped up and the +rest of the frightened flock immediately flew away. To my astonishment +the first bird began going straight up in a spiral flight and afterwards +dropped directly down dead. When I approached there sprang from the +body of the slain cock a rapacious ermine that hid under the trunk of a +fallen tree. The bird's neck was badly torn. I then understood that the +ermine had charged the cock, fastened itself on his neck and had been +carried by the bird into the air, as he sucked the blood from its +throat, and had been the cause of the heavy fall back to the earth. +Thanks to his aeronautic ability I saved one cartridge. + +So I lived fighting for the morrow and more and more poisoned by hard +and bitter thoughts. The days and weeks passed and soon I felt the +breath of warmer winds. On the open places the snow began to thaw. In +spots the little rivulets of water appeared. Another day I saw a fly +or a spider awakened after the hard winter. The spring was coming. I +realized that in spring it was impossible to go out from the forest. +Every river overflowed its banks; the swamps became impassable; all the +runways of the animals turned into beds for streams of running water. +I understood that until summer I was condemned to a continuation of my +solitude. Spring very quickly came into her rights and soon my mountain +was free from snow and was covered only with stones, the trunks of birch +and aspen trees and the high cones of ant hills; the river in places +broke its covering of ice and was coursing full with foam and bubbles. + + +CHAPTER IV + +A FISHERMAN + + +One day during the hunt, I approached the bank of the river and noticed +many very large fish with red backs, as though filled with blood. They +were swimming on the surface enjoying the rays of the sun. When the +river was entirely free from ice, these fish appeared in enormous +quantities. Soon I realized that they were working up-stream for the +spawning season in the smaller rivers. I thought to use a plundering +method of catching, forbidden by the law of all countries; but all the +lawyers and legislators should be lenient to one who lives in a den +under the roots of a fallen tree and dares to break their rational laws. + +Gathering many thin birch and aspen trees I built in the bed of the +stream a weir which the fish could not pass and soon I found them +trying to jump over it. Near the bank I left a hole in my barrier about +eighteen inches below the surface and fastened on the up-stream side a +high basket plaited from soft willow twigs, into which the fish came as +they passed the hole. Then I stood cruelly by and hit them on the head +with a strong stick. All my catch were over thirty pounds, some more +than eighty. This variety of fish is called the taimen, is of the trout +family and is the best in the Yenisei. + +After two weeks the fish had passed and my basket gave me no more +treasure, so I began anew the hunt. + + +CHAPTER V + +A DANGEROUS NEIGHBOR + + +The hunt became more and more profitable and enjoyable, as spring +animated everything. In the morning at the break of day the forest was +full of voices, strange and undiscernible to the inhabitant of the town. +There the heathcock clucked and sang his song of love, as he sat on the +top branches of the cedar and admired the grey hen scratching in the +fallen leaves below. It was very easy to approach this full-feathered +Caruso and with a shot to bring him down from his more poetic to his +more utilitarian duties. His going out was an euthanasia, for he was in +love and heard nothing. Out in the clearing the blackcocks with their +wide-spread spotted tails were fighting, while the hens strutting +near, craning and chattering, probably some gossip about their fighting +swains, watched and were delighted with them. From the distance flowed +in a stern and deep roar, yet full of tenderness and love, the mating +call of the deer; while from the crags above came down the short and +broken voice of the mountain buck. Among the bushes frolicked the hares +and often near them a red fox lay flattened to the ground watching his +chance. I never heard any wolves and they are usually not found in the +Siberian regions covered with mountains and forest. + +But there was another beast, who was my neighbor, and one of us had +to go away. One day, coming back from the hunt with a big heathcock, I +suddenly noticed among the trees a black, moving mass. I stopped and, +looking very attentively, saw a bear, digging away at an ant-hill. +Smelling me, he snorted violently, and very quickly shuffled away, +astonishing me with the speed of his clumsy gait. The following morning, +while still lying under my overcoat, I was attracted by a noise behind +my den. I peered out very carefully and discovered the bear. He stood on +his hind legs and was noisily sniffing, investigating the question as +to what living creature had adopted the custom of the bears of housing +during the winter under the trunks of fallen trees. I shouted and struck +my kettle with the ax. My early visitor made off with all his energy; +but his visit did not please me. It was very early in the spring that +this occurred and the bear should not yet have left his hibernating +place. He was the so-called "ant-eater," an abnormal type of bear +lacking in all the etiquette of the first families of the bear clan. + +I knew that the "ant-eaters" were very irritable and audacious and +quickly I prepared myself for both the defence and the charge. My +preparations were short. I rubbed off the ends of five of my cartridges, +thus making dum-dums out of them, a sufficiently intelligible argument +for so unwelcome a guest. Putting on my coat I went to the place where +I had first met the bear and where there were many ant-hills. I made +a detour of the whole mountain, looked in all the ravines but nowhere +found my caller. Disappointed and tired, I was approaching my shelter +quite off my guard when I suddenly discovered the king of the forest +himself just coming out of my lowly dwelling and sniffing all around the +entrance to it. I shot. The bullet pierced his side. He roared with pain +and anger and stood up on his hind legs. As the second bullet broke +one of these, he squatted down but immediately, dragging the leg and +endeavoring to stand upright, moved to attack me. Only the third bullet +in his breast stopped him. He weighed about two hundred to two hundred +fifty pounds, as near as I could guess, and was very tasty. He appeared +at his best in cutlets but only a little less wonderful in the Hamburg +steaks which I rolled and roasted on hot stones, watching them swell out +into great balls that were as light as the finest souffle omelettes we +used to have at the "Medved" in Petrograd. On this welcome addition to +my larder I lived from then until the ground dried out and the stream +ran down enough so that I could travel down along the river to the +country whither Ivan had directed me. + +Ever traveling with the greatest precautions I made the journey down +along the river on foot, carrying from my winter quarters all my +household furniture and goods, wrapped up in the deerskin bag which I +formed by tying the legs together in an awkward knot; and thus laden +fording the small streams and wading through the swamps that lay across +my path. After fifty odd miles of this I came to the country called +Sifkova, where I found the cabin of a peasant named Tropoff, located +closest to the forest that came to be my natural environment. With him I +lived for a time. + +* * * * * + +Now in these unimaginable surroundings of safety and peace, summing up +the total of my experience in the Siberian taiga, I make the following +deductions. In every healthy spiritual individual of our times, +occasions of necessity resurrect the traits of primitive man, hunter and +warrior, and help him in the struggle with nature. It is the prerogative +of the man with the trained mind and spirit over the untrained, who does +not possess sufficient science and will power to carry him through. But +the price that the cultured man must pay is that for him there exists +nothing more awful than absolute solitude and the knowledge of complete +isolation from human society and the life of moral and aesthetic +culture. One step, one moment of weakness and dark madness will seize +a man and carry him to inevitable destruction. I spent awful days of +struggle with the cold and hunger but I passed more terrible days in +the struggle of the will to kill weakening destructive thoughts. The +memories of these days freeze my heart and mind and even now, as I +revive them so clearly by writing of my experiences, they throw me +back into a state of fear and apprehension. Moreover, I am compelled +to observe that the people in highly civilized states give too little +regard to the training that is useful to man in primitive conditions, in +conditions incident to the struggle against nature for existence. It is +the single normal way to develop a new generation of strong, healthy, +iron men, with at the same time sensitive souls. + +Nature destroys the weak but helps the strong, awakening in the soul +emotions which remain dormant under the urban conditions of modern life. + + +CHAPTER VI + +A RIVER IN TRAVAIL + + +My presence in the Sifkova country was not for long but I used it in +full measure. First, I sent a man in whom I had confidence and whom I +considered trustworthy to my friends in the town that I had left and +received from them linen, boots, money and a small case of first aid +materials and essential medicines, and, what was most important, a +passport in another name, since I was dead for the Bolsheviki. Secondly, +in these more or less favorable conditions I reflected upon the plan for +my future actions. Soon in Sifkova the people heard that the Bolshevik +commissar would come for the requisition of cattle for the Red Army. It +was dangerous to remain longer. I waited only until the Yenisei should +lose its massive lock of ice, which kept it sealed long after the small +rivulets had opened and the trees had taken on their spring foliage. +For one thousand roubles I engaged a fisherman who agreed to take me +fifty-five miles up the river to an abandoned gold mine as soon as the +river, which had then only opened in places, should be entirely clear +of ice. At last one morning I heard a deafening roar like a tremendous +cannonade and ran out to find the river had lifted its great bulk of ice +and then given way to break it up. I rushed on down to the bank, where I +witnessed an awe-inspiring but magnificent scene. The river had brought +down the great volume of ice that had been dislodged in the south and +was carrying it northward under the thick layer which still covered +parts of the stream until finally its weight had broken the winter dam +to the north and released the whole grand mass in one last rush for the +Arctic. The Yenisei, "Father Yenisei," "Hero Yenisei," is one of the +longest rivers in Asia, deep and magnificent, especially through the +middle range of its course, where it is flanked and held in canyon-like +by great towering ranges. The huge stream had brought down whole miles +of ice fields, breaking them up on the rapids and on isolated rocks, +twisting them with angry swirls, throwing up sections of the black +winter roads, carrying down the tepees built for the use of passing +caravans which in the Winter always go from Minnusinsk to Krasnoyarsk on +the frozen river. From time to time the stream stopped in its flow, the +roar began and the great fields of ice were squeezed and piled upward, +sometimes as high as thirty feet, damming up the water behind, so that +it rapidly rose and ran out over the low places, casting on the shore +great masses of ice. Then the power of the reinforced waters conquered +the towering dam of ice and carried it downward with a sound like +breaking glass. At the bends in the river and round the great rocks +developed terrifying chaos. Huge blocks of ice jammed and jostled until +some were thrown clear into the air, crashing against others already +there, or were hurled against the curving cliffs and banks, tearing +out boulders, earth and trees high up the sides. All along the low +embankments this giant of nature flung upward with a suddenness that +leaves man but a pigmy in force a great wall of ice fifteen to twenty +feet high, which the peasants call "Zaberega" and through which they +cannot get to the river without cutting out a road. One incredible feat +I saw the giant perform, when a block many feet thick and many yards +square was hurled through the air and dropped to crush saplings and +little trees more than a half hundred feet from the bank. + +Watching this glorious withdrawal of the ice, I was filled with terror +and revolt at seeing the awful spoils which the Yenisei bore away +in this annual retreat. These were the bodies of the executed +counter-revolutionaries--officers, soldiers and Cossacks of the former +army of the Superior Governor of all anti-Bolshevik Russia, Admiral +Kolchak. They were the results of the bloody work of the "Cheka" at +Minnusinsk. Hundreds of these bodies with heads and hands cut off, with +mutilated faces and bodies half burned, with broken skulls, floated and +mingled with the blocks of ice, looking for their graves; or, turning +in the furious whirlpools among the jagged blocks, they were ground and +torn to pieces into shapeless masses, which the river, nauseated with +its task, vomited out upon the islands and projecting sand bars. I +passed the whole length of the middle Yenisei and constantly came across +these putrifying and terrifying reminders of the work of the Bolsheviki. +In one place at a turn of the river I saw a great heap of horses, which +had been cast up by the ice and current, in number not less than three +hundred. A verst below there I was sickened beyond endurance by the +discovery of a grove of willows along the bank which had raked from the +polluted stream and held in their finger-like drooping branches human +bodies in all shapes and attitudes with a semblance of naturalness +which made an everlasting picture on my distraught mind. Of this pitiful +gruesome company I counted seventy. + +At last the mountain of ice passed by, followed by the muddy freshets +that carried down the trunks of fallen trees, logs and bodies, bodies, +bodies. The fisherman and his son put me and my luggage into their +dugout made from an aspen tree and poled upstream along the bank. +Poling in a swift current is very hard work. At the sharp curves we were +compelled to row, struggling against the force of the stream and even in +places hugging the cliffs and making headway only by clutching the rocks +with our hands and dragging along slowly. Sometimes it took us a long +while to do five or six metres through these rapid holes. In two days we +reached the goal of our journey. I spent several days in this gold mine, +where the watchman and his family were living. As they were short of +food, they had nothing to spare for me and consequently my rifle again +served to nourish me, as well as contributing something to my hosts. +One day there appeared here a trained agriculturalist. I did not hide +because during my winter in the woods I had raised a heavy beard, so +that probably my own mother could not have recognized me. However, our +guest was very shrewd and at once deciphered me. I did not fear him +because I saw that he was not a Bolshevik and later had confirmation of +this. We found common acquaintances and a common viewpoint on current +events. He lived close to the gold mine in a small village where he +superintended public works. We determined to escape together from +Russia. For a long time I had puzzled over this matter and now my plan +was ready. Knowing the position in Siberia and its geography, I decided +that the best way to safety was through Urianhai, the northern part of +Mongolia on the head waters of the Yenisei, then through Mongolia and +out to the Far East and the Pacific. Before the overthrow of the Kolchak +Government I had received a commission to investigate Urianhai and +Western Mongolia and then, with great accuracy, I studied all the +maps and literature I could get on this question. To accomplish this +audacious plan I had the great incentive of my own safety. + + +CHAPTER VII + +THROUGH SOVIET SIBERIA + + +After several days we started through the forest on the left bank of the +Yenisei toward the south, avoiding the villages as much as possible in +fear of leaving some trail by which we might be followed. Whenever we +did have to go into them, we had a good reception at the hands of the +peasants, who did not penetrate our disguise; and we saw that they hated +the Bolsheviki, who had destroyed many of their villages. In one place +we were told that a detachment of Red troops had been sent out from +Minnusinsk to chase the Whites. We were forced to work far back from +the shore of the Yenisei and to hide in the woods and mountains. Here we +remained nearly a fortnight, because all this time the Red soldiers were +traversing the country and capturing in the woods half-dressed unarmed +officers who were in hiding from the atrocious vengeance of the +Bolsheviki. Afterwards by accident we passed a meadow where we found the +bodies of twenty-eight officers hung to the trees, with their faces and +bodies mutilated. There we determined never to allow ourselves to come +alive into the hands of the Boisheviki. To prevent this we had our +weapons and a supply of cyanide of potassium. + +Passing across one branch of the Yenisei, once we saw a narrow, miry +pass, the entrance to which was strewn with the bodies of men and +horses. A little farther along we found a broken sleigh with rifled +boxes and papers scattered about. Near them were also torn garments and +bodies. Who were these pitiful ones? What tragedy was staged in this +wild wood? We tried to guess this enigma and we began to investigate the +documents and papers. These were official papers addressed to the Staff +of General Pepelaieff. Probably one part of the Staff during the retreat +of Kolchak's army went through this wood, striving to hide from the +enemy approaching from all sides; but here they were caught by the Reds +and killed. Not far from here we found the body of a poor unfortunate +woman, whose condition proved clearly what had happened before relief +came through the beneficent bullet. The body lay beside a shelter of +branches, strewn with bottles and conserve tins, telling the tale of the +bantering feast that had preceded the destruction of this life. + +The further we went to the south, the more pronouncedly hospitable the +people became toward us and the more hostile to the Bolsheviki. At last +we emerged from the forests and entered the spacious vastness of the +Minnusinsk steppes, crossed by the high red mountain range called +the "Kizill-Kaiya" and dotted here and there with salt lakes. It is a +country of tombs, thousands of large and small dolmens, the tombs of the +earliest proprietors of this land: pyramids of stone ten metres high, +the marks set by Jenghiz Khan along his road of conquest and afterwards +by the cripple Tamerlane-Temur. Thousands of these dolmens and stone +pyramids stretch in endless rows to the north. In these plains the +Tartars now live. They were robbed by the Bolsheviki and therefore hated +them ardently. We openly told them that we were escaping. They gave us +food for nothing and supplied us with guides, telling us with whom we +might stop and where to hide in case of danger. + +After several days we looked down from the high bank of the Yenisei upon +the first steamer, the "Oriol," from Krasnoyarsk to Minnusinsk, laden +with Red soldiers. Soon we came to the mouth of the river Tuba, which +we were to follow straight east to the Sayan mountains, where Urianhai +begins. We thought the stage along the Tuba and its branch, the Amyl, +the most dangerous part of our course, because the valleys of these two +rivers had a dense population which had contributed large numbers +of soldiers to the celebrated Communist Partisans, Schetinkin and +Krafcheno. + +A Tartar ferried us and our horses over to the right bank of the Yenisei +and afterwards sent us some Cossacks at daybreak who guided us to the +mouth of the Tuba, where we spent the whole day in rest, gratifying +ourselves with a feast of wild black currants and cherries. + + +CHAPTER VIII + +THREE DAYS ON THE EDGE OF A PRECIPICE + + +Armed with our false passports, we moved along up the valley of the +Tuba. Every ten or fifteen versts we came across large villages of from +one to six hundred houses, where all administration was in the hands of +Soviets and where spies scrutinized all passers-by. We could not avoid +these villages for two reasons. First, our attempts to avoid them +when we were constantly meeting the peasants in the country would have +aroused suspicion and would have caused any Soviet to arrest us and +send us to the "Cheka" in Minnusinsk, where we should have sung our +last song. Secondly, in his documents my fellow traveler was granted +permission to use the government post relays for forwarding him on his +journey. Therefore, we were forced to visit the village Soviets and +change our horses. Our own mounts we had given to the Tartar and Cossack +who helped us at the mouth of the Tuba, and the Cossack brought us in +his wagon to the first village, where we received the post horses. All +except a small minority of the peasants were against the Bolsheviki and +voluntarily assisted us. I paid them for their help by treating their +sick and my fellow traveler gave them practical advice in the management +of their agriculture. Those who helped us chiefly were the old +dissenters and the Cossacks. + +Sometimes we came across villages entirely Communistic but very soon we +learned to distinguish them. When we entered a village with our horse +bells tinkling and found the peasants who happened to be sitting in +front of their houses ready to get up with a frown and a grumble that +here were more new devils coming, we knew that this was a village +opposed to the Communists and that here we could stop in safety. But, +if the peasants approached and greeted us with pleasure, calling us +"Comrades," we knew at once that we were among the enemy and took great +precautions. Such villages were inhabited by people who were not the +Siberian liberty-loving peasants but by emigrants from the Ukraine, +idle and drunk, living in poor dirty huts, though their village +were surrounded with the black and fertile soil of the steppes. Very +dangerous and pleasant moments we spent in the large village of Karatuz. +It is rather a town. In the year 1912 two colleges were opened here and +the population reached 15,000 people. It is the capital of the South +Yenisei Cossacks. But by now it is very difficult to recognize this +town. The peasant emigrants and Red army murdered all the Cossack +population and destroyed and burned most of the houses; and it is at +present the center of Bolshevism and Communism in the eastern part of +the Minnusinsk district. In the building of the Soviet, where we came to +exchange our horses, there was being held a meeting of the "Cheka." We +were immediately surrounded and questioned about our documents. We were +not any too calm about the impression which might be made by our papers +and attempted to avoid this examination. My fellow traveler afterwards +often said to me: + +"It is great good fortune that among the Bolsheviki the good-for-nothing +shoemaker of yesterday is the Governor of today and scientists sweep +the streets or clean the stables of the Red cavalry. I can talk with +the Bolsheviki because they do not know the difference between +'disinfection' and 'diphtheria,' 'anthracite' and 'appendicitis' and can +talk them round in all things, even up to persuading them not to put a +bullet into me." + +And so we talked the members of the "Cheka" round to everything that we +wanted. We presented to them a bright scheme for the future development +of their district, when we would build the roads and bridges which would +allow them to export the wood from Urianhai, iron and gold from the +Sayan Mountains, cattle and furs from Mongolia. What a triumph of +creative work for the Soviet Government! Our ode occupied about an +hour and afterwards the members of the "Cheka," forgetting about our +documents, personally changed our horses, placed our luggage on the +wagon and wished us success. It was the last ordeal within the borders +of Russia. + +When we had crossed the valley of the river Amyl, Happiness smiled on +us. Near the ferry we met a member of the militia from Karatuz. He had +on his wagon several rifles and automatic pistols, mostly Mausers, +for outfitting an expedition through Urianhai in quest of some Cossack +officers who had been greatly troubling the Bolsheviki. We stood upon +our guard. We could very easily have met this expedition and we were +not quite assured that the soldiers would be so appreciative of our +high-sounding phrases as were the members of the "Cheka." Carefully +questioning the militiaman, we ferreted out the route their expedition +was to take. In the next village we stayed in the same house with him. I +had to open my luggage and suddenly I noticed his admiring glance fixed +upon my bag. + +"What pleases you so much?" I asked. + +He whispered: "Trousers . . . Trousers." + +I had received from my townsmen quite new trousers of black thick +cloth for riding. Those trousers attracted the rapt attention of the +militiaman. + +"If you have no other trousers. . . ." I remarked, reflecting upon my +plan of attack against my new friend. + +"No," he explained with sadness, "the Soviet does not furnish trousers. +They tell me they also go without trousers. And my trousers are +absolutely worn out. Look at them." + +With these words he threw back the corner of his overcoat and I was +astonished how he could keep himself inside these trousers, for they +had such large holes that they were more of a net than trousers, a net +through which a small shark could have slipped. + +"Sell me," he whispered, with a question in his voice. + +"I cannot, for I need them myself," I answered decisively. + +He reflected for a few minutes and afterward, approaching me, said: "Let +us go out doors and talk. Here it is inconvenient." + +We went outside. "Now, what about it?" he began. "You are going into +Urianhai. There the Soviet bank-notes have no value and you will not +be able to buy anything, where there are plenty of sables, fox-skins, +ermine and gold dust to be purchased, which they very willingly exchange +for rifles and cartridges. You have each of you a rifle and I will +give you one more rifle with a hundred cartridges if you give me the +trousers." + +"We do not need weapons. We are protected by our documents," I answered, +as though I did not understand. + +"But no," he interrupted, "you can change that rifle there into furs and +gold. I shall give you that rifle outright." + +"Ah, that's it, is it? But it's very little for those trousers. Nowhere +in Russia can you now find trousers. All Russia goes without trousers +and for your rifle I should receive a sable and what use to me is one +skin?" + +Word by word I attained to my desire. The militia-man got my trousers +and I received a rifle with one hundred cartridges and two automatic +pistols with forty cartridges each. We were armed now so that we could +defend ourselves. Moreover, I persuaded the happy possessor of my +trousers to give us a permit to carry the weapons. Then the law and +force were both on our side. + +In a distant village we bought three horses, two for riding and one for +packing, engaged a guide, purchased dried bread, meat, salt and butter +and, after resting twenty-four hours, began our trip up the Amyl toward +the Sayan Mountains on the border of Urianhai. There we hoped not to +meet Bolsheviki, either sly or silly. In three days from the mouth of +the Tuba we passed the last Russian village near the Mongolian-Urianhai +border, three days of constant contact with a lawless population, of +continuous danger and of the ever present possibility of fortuitous +death. Only iron will power, presence of mind and dogged tenacity +brought us through all the dangers and saved us from rolling back down +our precipice of adventure, at whose foot lay so many others who +had failed to make this same climb to freedom which we had just +accomplished. Perhaps they lacked the persistence or the presence of +mind, perhaps they had not the poetic ability to sing odes about "roads, +bridges and gold mines" or perhaps they simply had no spare trousers. + + +CHAPTER IX + +TO THE SAYANS AND SAFETY + + +Dense virgin wood surrounded us. In the high, already yellow grass the +trail wound hardly noticeable in among bushes and trees just beginning +to drop their many colored leaves. It is the old, already forgotten Amyl +pass road. Twenty-five years ago it carried the provisions, machinery +and workers for the numerous, now abandoned, gold mines of the +Amyl valley. The road now wound along the wide and rapid Amyl, then +penetrated into the deep forest, guiding us round the swampy ground +filled with those dangerous Siberian quagmires, through the dense +bushes, across mountains and wide meadows. Our guide probably did not +surmise our real intention and sometimes, apprehensively looking down at +the ground, would say: + +"Three riders on horses with shoes on have passed here. Perhaps they +were soldiers." + +His anxiety was terminated when he discovered that the tracks led off to +one side and then returned to the trail. + +"They did not proceed farther," he remarked, slyly smiling. + +"That's too bad," we answered. "It would have been more lively to travel +in company." + +But the peasant only stroked his beard and laughed. Evidently he was not +taken in by our statement. + +We passed on the way a gold mine that had been formerly planned and +equipped on splendid lines but was now abandoned and the buildings all +destroyed. The Bolsheviki had taken away the machinery, supplies and +also some parts of the buildings. Nearby stood a dark and gloomy church +with windows broken, the crucifix torn off and the tower burned, a +pitifully typical emblem of the Russia of today. The starving family of +the watchman lived at the mine in continuing danger and privation. They +told us that in this forest region were wandering about a band of Reds +who were robbing anything that remained on the property of the gold +mine, were working the pay dirt in the richest part of the mine and, +with a little gold washed, were going to drink and gamble it away in +some distant villages where the peasants were making the forbidden vodka +out of berries and potatoes and selling it for its weight in gold. A +meeting with this band meant death. After three days we crossed the +northern ridge of the Sayan chain, passed the border river Algiak and, +after this day, were abroad in the territory of Urianhai. + +This wonderful land, rich in most diverse forms of natural wealth, is +inhabited by a branch of the Mongols, which is now only sixty thousand +and which is gradually dying off, speaking a language quite different +from any of the other dialects of this folk and holding as their life +ideal the tenet of "Eternal Peace." Urianhai long ago became the scene +of administrative attempts by Russians, Mongols and Chinese, all of whom +claimed sovereignty over the region whose unfortunate inhabitants, the +Soyots, had to pay tribute to all three of these overlords. It was due +to this that the land was not an entirely safe refuge for us. We had +heard already from our militiaman about the expedition preparing to go +into Urianhai and from the peasants we learned that the villages along +the Little Yenisei and farther south had formed Red detachments, who +were robbing and killing everyone who fell into their hands. Recently +they had killed sixty-two officers attempting to pass Urianhai into +Mongolia; robbed and killed a caravan of Chinese merchants; and killed +some German war prisoners who escaped from the Soviet paradise. On the +fourth day we reached a swampy valley where, among open forests, stood a +single Russian house. Here we took leave of our guide, who hastened away +to get back before the snows should block his road over the Sayans. The +master of the establishment agreed to guide us to the Seybi River for +ten thousand roubles in Soviet notes. Our horses were tired and we were +forced to give them a rest, so we decided to spend twenty-four hours +here. + +We were drinking tea when the daughter of our host cried: + +"The Soyots are coming!" Into the room with their rifles and pointed +hats came suddenly four of them. + +"Mende," they grunted to us and then, without ceremony, began examining +us critically. Not a button or a seam in our entire outfit escaped their +penetrating gaze. Afterwards one of them, who appeared to be the local +"Merin" or governor, began to investigate our political views. Listening +to our criticisms of the Bolsheviki, he was evidently pleased and began +talking freely. + +"You are good people. You do not like Bolsheviki. We will help you." + +I thanked him and presented him with the thick silk cord which I was +wearing as a girdle. Before night they left us saying that they would +return in the morning. It grew dark. We went to the meadow to look after +our exhausted horses grazing there and came back to the house. We were +gaily chatting with the hospitable host when suddenly we heard horses' +hoofs in the court and raucous voices, followed by the immediate entry +of five Red soldiers armed with rifles and swords. Something unpleasant +and cold rolled up into my throat and my heart hammered. We knew the +Reds as our enemies. These men had the red stars on their Astrakhan caps +and red triangles on their sleeves. They were members of the detachment +that was out to look for Cossack officers. Scowling at us they took +off their overcoats and sat down. We first opened the conversation, +explaining the purpose of our journey in exploring for bridges, roads +and gold mines. From them we then learned that their commander would +arrive in a little while with seven more men and that they would take +our host at once as a guide to the Seybi River, where they thought the +Cossack officers must be hidden. Immediately I remarked that our affairs +were moving fortunately and that we must travel along together. One of +the soldiers replied that that would depend upon the "Comrade-officer." + +During our conversation the Soyot Governor entered. Very attentively he +studied again the new arrivals and then asked: "Why did you take from +the Soyots the good horses and leave bad ones?" + +The soldiers laughed at him. + +"Remember that you are in a foreign country!" answered the Soyot, with a +threat in his voice. + +"God and the Devil!" cried one of the soldiers. + +But the Soyot very calmly took a seat at the table and accepted the cup +of tea the hostess was preparing for him. The conversation ceased. The +Soyot finished the tea, smoked his long pipe and, standing up, said: + +"If tomorrow morning the horses are not back at the owner's, we shall +come and take them." And with these words he turned and went out. + +I noticed an expression of apprehension on the faces of the soldiers. +Shortly one was sent out as a messenger while the others sat silent with +bowed heads. Late in the night the officer arrived with his other seven +men. As he received the report about the Soyot, he knitted his brows and +said: + +"It's a bad mess. We must travel through the swamp where a Soyot will be +behind every mound watching us." + +He seemed really very anxious and his trouble fortunately prevented him +from paying much attention to us. I began to calm him and promised on +the morrow to arrange this matter with the Soyots. The officer was a +coarse brute and a silly man, desiring strongly to be promoted for the +capture of the Cossack officers, and feared that the Soyot could prevent +him from reaching the Seybi. + +At daybreak we started together with the Red detachment. When we had +made about fifteen kilometers, we discovered behind the bushes two +riders. They were Soyots. On their backs were their flint rifles. + +"Wait for me!" I said to the officer. "I shall go for a parley with +them." + +I went forward with all the speed of my horse. One of the horsemen was +the Soyot Governor, who said to me: + +"Remain behind the detachment and help us." + +"All right," I answered, "but let us talk a little, in order that they +may think we are parleying." + +After a moment I shook the hand of the Soyot and returned to the +soldiers. + +"All right," I exclaimed, "we can continue our journey. No hindrance +will come from the Soyots." + +We moved forward and, when we were crossing a large meadow, we espied at +a long distance two Soyots riding at full gallop right up the side of a +mountain. Step by step I accomplished the necessary manoeuvre to bring +me and my fellow traveler somewhat behind the detachment. Behind +our backs remained only one soldier, very brutish in appearance and +apparently very hostile to us. I had time to whisper to my companion +only one word: "Mauser," and saw that he very carefully unbuttoned the +saddle bag and drew out a little the handle of his pistol. + +Soon I understood why these soldiers, excellent woodsmen as they were, +would not attempt to go to the Seybi without a guide. All the country +between the Algiak and the Seybi is formed by high and narrow mountain +ridges separated by deep swampy valleys. It is a cursed and dangerous +place. At first our horses mired to the knees, lunging about and +catching their feet in the roots of bushes in the quagmires, then +falling and pinning us under their sides, breaking parts of their +saddles and bridles. Then we would go in up to the riders' knees. My +horse went down once with his whole breast and head under the red fluid +mud and we just saved it and no more. Afterwards the officer's horse +fell with him so that he bruised his head on a stone. My companion +injured one knee against a tree. Some of the men also fell and were +injured. The horses breathed heavily. Somewhere dimly and gloomily +a crow cawed. Later the road became worse still. The trail followed +through the same miry swamp but everywhere the road was blocked with +fallen tree trunks. The horses, jumping over the trunks, would land in +an unexpectedly deep hole and flounder. We and all the soldiers were +covered with blood and mud and were in great fear of exhausting our +mounts. For a long distance we had to get down and lead them. At last we +entered a broad meadow covered with bushes and bordered with rocks. Not +only horses but riders also began to sink to their middle in a quagmire +with apparently no bottom. The whole surface of the meadow was but a +thin layer of turf, covering a lake with black putrefying water. When +we finally learned to open our column and proceed at big intervals, we +found we could keep on this surface that undulated like rubber ice and +swayed the bushes up and down. In places the earth buckled up and broke. + +Suddenly, three shots sounded. They were hardly more than the report of +a Flobert rifle; but they were genuine shots, because the officer and +two soldiers fell to the ground. The other soldiers grabbed their rifles +and, with fear, looked about for the enemy. Four more were soon unseated +and suddenly I noticed our rearguard brute raise his rifle and aim +right at me. However, my Mauser outstrode his rifle and I was allowed to +continue my story. + +"Begin!" I cried to my friend and we took part in the shooting. Soon the +meadow began to swarm with Soyots, stripping the fallen, dividing the +spoils and recapturing their horses. In some forms of warfare it is +never safe to leave any of the enemy to renew hostilities later with +overwhelming forces. + +After an hour of very difficult road we began to ascend the mountain and +soon arrived on a high plateau covered with trees. + +"After all, Soyots are not a too peaceful people," I remarked, +approaching the Governor. + +He looked at me very sharply and replied: + +"It was not Soyots who did the killing." + +He was right. It was the Abakan Tartars in Soyot clothes who killed the +Bolsheviki. These Tartars were running their herds of cattle and horses +down out of Russia through Urianhai to Mongolia. They had as their +guide and negotiator a Kalmuck Lamaite. The following morning we were +approaching a small settlement of Russian colonists and noticed some +horsemen looking out from the woods. One of our young and brave Tartars +galloped off at full speed toward these men in the wood but soon wheeled +and returned with a reassuring smile. + +"All right," he exclaimed, laughing, "keep right on." + +We continued our travel on a good broad road along a high wooden fence +surrounding a meadow filled with a fine herd of wapiti or izubr, which +the Russian colonists breed for the horns that are so valuable in the +velvet for sale to Tibetan and Chinese medicine dealers. These horns, +when boiled and dried, are called panti and are sold to the Chinese at +very high prices. + +We were received with great fear by the settlers. + +"Thank God!" exclaimed the hostess, "we thought . . ." and she broke off, +looking at her husband. + + +CHAPTER X + +THE BATTLE ON THE SEYBI + + +Constant dangers develop one's watchfulness and keenness of perception. +We did not take off our clothes nor unsaddle our horses, tired as +we were. I put my Mauser inside my coat and began to look about and +scrutinize the people. The first thing I discovered was the butt end of +a rifle under the pile of pillows always found on the peasants' large +beds. Later I noticed the employees of our host constantly coming into +the room for orders from him. They did not look like simple peasants, +although they had long beards and were dressed very dirtily. They +examined me with very attentive eyes and did not leave me and my friend +alone with the host. We could not, however, make out anything. But then +the Soyot Governor came in and, noticing our strained relations, began +explaining in the Soyot language to the host all about us. + +"I beg your pardon," the colonist said, "but you know yourself that now +for one honest man we have ten thousand murderers and robbers." + +With this we began chatting more freely. It appeared that our host knew +that a band of Bolsheviki would attack him in the search for the band of +Cossack officers who were living in his house on and off. He had heard +also about the "total loss" of one detachment. However, it did not +entirely calm the old man to have our news, for he had heard of the +large detachment of Reds that was coming from the border of the Usinsky +District in pursuit of the Tartars who were escaping with their cattle +south to Mongolia. + +"From one minute to another we are awaiting them with fear," said +our host to me. "My Soyot has come in and announced that the Reds are +already crossing the Seybi and the Tartars are prepared for the fight." + +We immediately went out to look over our saddles and packs and then took +the horses and hid them in the bushes not far off. We made ready our +rifles and pistols and took posts in the enclosure to wait for our +common enemy. An hour of trying impatience passed, when one of the +workmen came running in from the wood and whispered: + +"They are crossing our swamp. . . . The fight is on." + +In fact, like an answer to his words, came through the woods the sound +of a single rifle-shot, followed closely by the increasing rat-tat-tat +of the mingled guns. Nearer to the house the sounds gradually came. Soon +we heard the beating of the horses' hoofs and the brutish cries of the +soldiers. In a moment three of them burst into the house, from off +the road where they were being raked now by the Tartars from both +directions, cursing violently. One of them shot at our host. He stumbled +along and fell on his knee, as his hand reached out toward the rifle +under his pillows. + +"Who are YOU?" brutally blurted out one of the soldiers, turning to us +and raising his rifle. We answered with Mausers and successfully, for +only one soldier in the rear by the door escaped, and that merely to +fall into the hands of a workman in the courtyard who strangled him. +The fight had begun. The soldiers called on their comrades for help. +The Reds were strung along in the ditch at the side of the road, three +hundred paces from the house, returning the fire of the surrounding +Tartars. Several soldiers ran to the house to help their comrades but +this time we heard the regular volley of the workmen of our host. They +fired as though in a manoeuvre calmly and accurately. Five Red soldiers +lay on the road, while the rest now kept to their ditch. Before long we +discovered that they began crouching and crawling out toward the end of +the ditch nearest the wood where they had left their horses. The sounds +of shots became more and more distant and soon we saw fifty or sixty +Tartars pursuing the Reds across the meadow. + +Two days we rested here on the Seybi. The workmen of our host, eight in +number, turned out to be officers hiding from the Bolsheviks. They asked +permission to go on with us, to which we agreed. + +When my friend and I continued our trip we had a guard of eight armed +officers and three horses with packs. We crossed a beautiful valley +between the Rivers Seybi and Ut. Everywhere we saw splendid grazing +lands with numerous herds upon them, but in two or three houses along +the road we did not find anyone living. All had hidden away in fear +after hearing the sounds of the fight with the Reds. The following day +we went up over the high chain of mountains called Daban and, traversing +a great area of burned timber where our trail lay among the fallen +trees, we began to descend into a valley hidden from us by the +intervening foothills. There behind these hills flowed the Little +Yenisei, the last large river before reaching Mongolia proper. About ten +kilometers from the river we spied a column of smoke rising up out of +the wood. Two of the officers slipped away to make an investigation. +For a long time they did not return and we, fearful lest something had +happened, moved off carefully in the direction of the smoke, all ready +for a fight if necessary. We finally came near enough to hear the voices +of many people and among them the loud laugh of one of our scouts. +In the middle of a meadow we made out a large tent with two tepees of +branches and around these a crowd of fifty or sixty men. When we broke +out of the forest all of them rushed forward with a joyful welcome +for us. It appeared that it was a large camp of Russian officers and +soldiers who, after their escape from Siberia, had lived in the houses +of the Russian colonists and rich peasants in Urianhai. + +"What are you doing here?" we asked with surprise. + +"Oh, ho, you know nothing at all about what has been going on?" replied +a fairly old man who called himself Colonel Ostrovsky. "In Urianhai an +order has been issued from the Military Commissioner to mobilize all +men over twenty-eight years of age and everywhere toward the town of +Belotzarsk are moving detachments of these Partisans. They are robbing +the colonists and peasants and killing everyone that falls into their +hands. We are hiding here from them." + +The whole camp counted only sixteen rifles and three bombs, belonging +to a Tartar who was traveling with his Kalmuck guide to his herds in +Western Mongolia. We explained the aim of our journey and our intention +to pass through Mongolia to the nearest port on the Pacific. +The officers asked me to bring them out with us. I agreed. Our +reconnaissance proved to us that there were no Partisans near the house +of the peasant who was to ferry us over the Little Yenisei. We moved off +at once in order to pass as quickly as possible this dangerous zone of +the Yenisei and to sink ourselves into the forest beyond. It snowed but +immediately thawed. Before evening a cold north wind sprang up, bringing +with it a small blizzard. Late in the night our party reached the river. +Our colonist welcomed us and offered at once to ferry us over and swim +the horses, although there was ice still floating which had come down +from the head-waters of the stream. During this conversation there was +present one of the peasant's workmen, red-haired and squint-eyed. He +kept moving around all the time and suddenly disappeared. Our host +noticed it and, with fear in his voice, said: + +"He has run to the village and will guide the Partisans here. We must +cross immediately." + +Then began the most terrible night of my whole journey. We proposed +to the colonist that he take only our food and ammunition in the boat, +while we would swim our horses across, in order to save the time of +the many trips. The width of the Yenisei in this place is about three +hundred metres. The stream is very rapid and the shore breaks away +abruptly to the full depth of the stream. The night was absolutely dark +with not a star in the sky. The wind in whistling swirls drove the snow +and sleet sharply against our faces. Before us flowed the stream of +black, rapid water, carrying down thin, jagged blocks of ice, twisting +and grinding in the whirls and eddies. For a long time my horse refused +to take the plunge down the steep bank, snorted and braced himself. With +all my strength I lashed him with my whip across his neck until, with a +pitiful groan, he threw himself into the cold stream. We both went all +the way under and I hardly kept my seat in the saddle. Soon I was some +metres from the shore with my horse stretching his head and neck far +forward in his efforts and snorting and blowing incessantly. I felt the +every motion of his feet churning the water and the quivering of his +whole body under me in this trial. At last we reached the middle of the +river, where the current became exceedingly rapid and began to carry us +down with it. Out of the ominous darkness I heard the shoutings of my +companions and the dull cries of fear and suffering from the horses. I +was chest deep in the icy water. Sometimes the floating blocks struck +me; sometimes the waves broke up over my head and face. I had no time to +look about or to feel the cold. The animal wish to live took possession +of me; I became filled with the thought that, if my horse's strength +failed in his struggle with the stream, I must perish. All my attention +was turned to his efforts and to his quivering fear. Suddenly he groaned +loudly and I noticed he was sinking. The water evidently was over his +nostrils, because the intervals of his frightened snorts through the +nostrils became longer. A big block of ice struck his head and turned +him so that he was swimming right downstream. With difficulty I reined +him around toward the shore but felt now that his force was gone. His +head several times disappeared under the swirling surface. I had no +choice. I slipped from the saddle and, holding this by my left hand, +swam with my right beside my mount, encouraging him with my shouts. For +a time he floated with lips apart and his teeth set firm. In his widely +opened eyes was indescribable fear. As soon as I was out of the saddle, +he had at once risen in the water and swam more calmly and rapidly. +At last under the hoofs of my exhausted animal I heard the stones. +One after another my companions came up on the shore. The well-trained +horses had brought all their burdens over. Much farther down our +colonist landed with the supplies. Without a moment's loss we packed +our things on the horses and continued our journey. The wind was growing +stronger and colder. At the dawn of day the cold was intense. Our soaked +clothes froze and became hard as leather; our teeth chattered; and in +our eyes showed the red fires of fever: but we traveled on to put as +much space as we could between ourselves and the Partisans. Passing +about fifteen kilometres through the forest we emerged into an open +valley, from which we could see the opposite bank of the Yenisei. It was +about eight o'clock. Along the road on the other shore wound the black +serpent-like line of riders and wagons which we made out to be a column +of Red soldiers with their transport. We dismounted and hid in the +bushes in order to avoid attracting their attention. + +All the day with the thermometer at zero and below we continued our +journey, only at night reaching the mountains covered with larch +forests, where we made big fires, dried our clothes and warmed ourselves +thoroughly. The hungry horses did not leave the fires but stood right +behind us with drooped heads and slept. Very early in the morning +several Soyots came to our camp. + +"Ulan? (Red?)" asked one of them. + +"No! No!" exclaimed all our company. + +"Tzagan? (White?)" followed the new question. + +"Yes, yes," said the Tartar, "all are Whites." + +"Mende! Mende!" they grunted and, after starting their cups of tea, +began to relate very interesting and important news. It appeared that +the Red Partisans, moving from the mountains Tannu Ola, occupied with +their outposts all the border of Mongolia to stop and seize the peasants +and Soyots driving out their cattle. To pass the Tannu Ola now would be +impossible. I saw only one way--to turn sharp to the southeast, pass +the swampy valley of the Buret Hei and reach the south shore of Lake +Kosogol, which is already in the territory of Mongolia proper. It was +very unpleasant news. To the first Mongol post in Samgaltai was not more +than sixty miles from our camp, while to Kosogol by the shortest line +not less than two hundred seventy-five. The horses my friend and I were +riding, after having traveled more than six hundred miles over hard +roads and without proper food or rest, could scarcely make such an +additional distance. But, reflecting upon the situation and studying my +new fellow travelers, I determined not to attempt to pass the Tannu Ola. +They were nervous, morally weary men, badly dressed and armed and most +of them were without weapons. I knew that during a fight there is no +danger so great as that of disarmed men. They are easily caught +by panic, lose their heads and infect all the others. Therefore, I +consulted with my friends and decided to go to Kosogol. Our company +agreed to follow us. After luncheon, consisting of soup with big +lumps of meat, dry bread and tea, we moved out. About two o'clock the +mountains began to rise up before us. They were the northeast outspurs +of the Tannu Ola, behind which lay the Valley of Buret Hei. + + +CHAPTER XI + +THE BARRIER OF RED PARTISANS + + +In a valley between two sharp ridges we discovered a herd of yaks and +cattle being rapidly driven off to the north by ten mounted Soyots. +Approaching us warily they finally revealed that Noyon (Prince) of Todji +had ordered them to drive the herds along the Buret Hei into Mongolia, +apprehending the pillaging of the Red Partisans. They proceeded but +were informed by some Soyot hunters that this part of the Tannu Ola was +occupied by the Partisans from the village of Vladimirovka. Consequently +they were forced to return. We inquired from them the whereabouts of +these outposts and how many Partisans were holding the mountain pass +over into Mongolia. We sent out the Tartar and the Kalmuck for a +reconnaissance while all of us prepared for the further advance by +wrapping the feet of our horses in our shirts and by muzzling their +noses with straps and bits of rope so that they could not neigh. It +was dark when our investigators returned and reported to us that about +thirty Partisans had a camp some ten kilometers from us, occupying the +yurtas of the Soyots. At the pass were two outposts, one of two soldiers +and the other of three. From the outposts to the camp was a little over +a mile. Our trail lay between the two outposts. From the top of the +mountain one could plainly see the two posts and could shoot them all. +When we had come near to the top of this mountain, I left our party and, +taking with me my friend, the Tartar, the Kalmuck and two of the young +officers, advanced. From the mountain I saw about five hundred yards +ahead two fires. At each of the fires sat a soldier with his rifle and +the others slept. I did not want to fight with the Partisans but we +had to do away with these outposts and that without firing or we never +should get through the pass. I did not believe the Partisans could +afterwards track us because the whole trail was thickly marked with the +spoors of horses and cattle. + +"I shall take for my share these two," whispered my friend, pointing to +the left outpost. + +The rest of us were to take care of the second post. I crept along +through the bushes behind my friend in order to help him in case of +need; but I am bound to admit that I was not at all worried about him. +He was about seven feet tall and so strong that, when a horse used to +refuse sometimes to take the bit, he would wrap his arm around its neck, +kick its forefeet out from under it and throw it so that he could easily +bridle it on the ground. When only a hundred paces remained, I stood +behind the bushes and watched. I could see very distinctly the fire and +the dozing sentinel. He sat with his rifle on his knees. His companion, +asleep beside him, did not move. Their white felt boots were plainly +visible to me. For a long time I did not remark my friend. At the fire +all was quiet. Suddenly from the other outpost floated over a few dim +shouts and all was still. Our sentinel slowly raised his head. But just +at this moment the huge body of my friend rose up and blanketed the fire +from me and in a twinkling the feet of the sentinel flashed through the +air, as my companion had seized him by the throat and swung him +clear into the bushes, where both figures disappeared. In a second he +re-appeared, flourished the rifle of the Partisan over his head and I +heard the dull blow which was followed by an absolute calm. He came back +toward me and, confusedly smiling, said: + +"It is done. God and the Devil! When I was a boy, my mother wanted to +make a priest out of me. When I grew up, I became a trained agronome in +order . . . to strangle the people and smash their skulls. Revolution is +a very stupid thing!" + +And with anger and disgust he spit and began to smoke his pipe. + +At the other outpost also all was finished. During this night we reached +the top of the Tannu Ola and descended again into a valley covered +with dense bushes and twined with a whole network of small rivers and +streams. It was the headwaters of the Buret Hei. About one o'clock we +stopped and began to feed our horses, as the grass just there was +very good. Here we thought ourselves in safety. We saw many calming +indications. On the mountains were seen the grazing herds of reindeers +and yaks and approaching Soyots confirmed our supposition. Here behind +the Tannu Ola the Soyots had not seen the Red soldiers. We presented to +these Soyots a brick of tea and saw them depart happy and sure that we +were "Tzagan," a "good people." + +While our horses rested and grazed on the well-preserved grass, we sat +by the fire and deliberated upon our further progress. There developed +a sharp controversy between two sections of our company, one led by a +Colonel who with four officers were so impressed by the absence of Reds +south of the Tannu Ola that they determined to work westward to Kobdo +and then on to the camp on the Emil River where the Chinese authorities +had interned six thousand of the forces of General Bakitch, which had +come over into Mongolian territory. My friend and I with sixteen of the +officers chose to carry through our old plan to strike for the shores +of Lake Kosogol and thence out to the Far East. As neither side could +persuade the other to abandon its ideas, our company was divided and the +next day at noon we took leave of one another. It turned out that our +own wing of eighteen had many fights and difficulties on the way, which +cost us the lives of six of our comrades, but that the remainder of us +came through to the goal of our journey so closely knit by the ties of +devotion which fighting and struggling for our very lives entailed +that we have ever preserved for one another the warmest feelings of +friendship. The other group under Colonel Jukoff perished. He met a big +detachment of Red cavalry and was defeated by them in two fights. Only +two officers escaped. They related to me this sad news and the details +of the fights when we met four months later in Urga. + +Our band of eighteen riders with five packhorses moved up the valley +of the Buret Hei. We floundered in the swamps, passed innumerable miry +streams, were frozen by the cold winds and were soaked through by the +snow and sleet; but we persisted indefatigably toward the south end of +Kosogol. As a guide our Tartar led us confidently over these trails well +marked by the feet of many cattle being run out of Urianhai to Mongolia. + + +CHAPTER XII + +IN THE COUNTRY OF ETERNAL PEACE + + +The inhabitants of Urianhai, the Soyots, are proud of being the genuine +Buddhists and of retaining the pure doctrine of holy Rama and the deep +wisdom of Sakkia-Mouni. They are the eternal enemies of war and of the +shedding of blood. Away back in the thirteenth century they preferred to +move out from their native land and take refuge in the north rather than +fight or become a part of the empire of the bloody conqueror Jenghiz +Khan, who wanted to add to his forces these wonderful horsemen and +skilled archers. Three times in their history they have thus trekked +northward to avoid struggle and now no one can say that on the hands +of the Soyots there has ever been seen human blood. With their love of +peace they struggled against the evils of war. Even the severe Chinese +administrators could not apply here in this country of peace the +full measure of their implacable laws. In the same manner the Soyots +conducted themselves when the Russian people, mad with blood and crime, +brought this infection into their land. They avoided persistently +meetings and encounters with the Red troops and Partisans, trekking off +with their families and cattle southward into the distant principalities +of Kemchik and Soldjak. The eastern branch of this stream of emigration +passed through the valley of the Buret Hei, where we constantly +outstrode groups of them with their cattle and herds. + +We traveled quickly along the winding trail of the Buret Hei and in +two days began to make the elevations of the mountain pass between the +valleys of the Buret Hei and Kharga. The trail was not only very +steep but was also littered with fallen larch trees and frequently +intercepted, incredible as it may seem, with swampy places where the +horses mired badly. Then again we picked our dangerous road over cobbles +and small stones that rolled away under our horses' feet and bumped off +over the precipice nearby. Our horses fatigued easily in passing this +moraine that had been strewn by ancient glaciers along the mountain +sides. Sometimes the trail led right along the edge of the precipices +where the horses started great slides of stones and sand. I remember +one whole mountain covered with these moving sands. We had to leave our +saddles and, taking the bridles in our hands, to trot for a mile or more +over these sliding beds, sometimes sinking in up to our knees and +going down the mountain side with them toward the precipices below. One +imprudent move at times would have sent us over the brink. This destiny +met one of our horses. Belly down in the moving trap, he could not work +free to change his direction and so slipped on down with a mass of it +until he rolled over the precipice and was lost to us forever. We heard +only the crackling of breaking trees along his road to death. Then with +great difficulty we worked down to salvage the saddle and bags. Further +along we had to abandon one of our pack horses which had come all the +way from the northern border of Urianhai with us. We first unburdened +it but this did not help; no more did our shouting and threats. He only +stood with his head down and looked so exhausted that we realized he +had reached the further bourne of his land of toil. Some Soyots with us +examined him, felt of his muscles on the fore and hind legs, took his +head in their hands and moved it from side to side, examined his head +carefully after that and then said: + +"That horse will not go further. His brain is dried out." So we had to +leave him. + +That evening we came to a beautiful change in scene when we topped a +rise and found ourselves on a broad plateau covered with larch. On it we +discovered the yurtas of some Soyot hunters, covered with bark instead +of the usual felt. Out of these ten men with rifles rushed toward us as +we approached. They informed us that the Prince of Soldjak did not +allow anyone to pass this way, as he feared the coming of murderers and +robbers into his dominions. + +"Go back to the place from which you came," they advised us with fear in +their eyes. + +I did not answer but I stopped the beginnings of a quarrel between an +old Soyot and one of my officers. I pointed to the small stream in the +valley ahead of us and asked him its name. + +"Oyna," replied the Soyot. "It is the border of the principality and the +passage of it is forbidden." + +"All right," I said, "but you will allow us to warm and rest ourselves a +little." + +"Yes, yes!" exclaimed the hospitable Soyots, and led us into their +tepees. + +On our way there I took the opportunity to hand to the old Soyot a +cigarette and to another a box of matches. We were all walking along +together save one Soyot who limped slowly in the rear and was holding +his hand up over his nose. + +"Is he ill?" I asked. + +"Yes," sadly answered the old Soyot. "That is my son. He has been losing +blood from the nose for two days and is now quite weak." + +I stopped and called the young man to me. + +"Unbutton your outer coat," I ordered, "bare your neck and chest and +turn your face up as far as you can." I pressed the jugular vein on both +sides of his head for some minutes and said to him: + +"The blood will not flow from your nose any more. Go into your tepee and +lie down for some time." + +The "mysterious" action of my fingers created on the Soyots a strong +impression. The old Soyot with fear and reverence whispered: + +"Ta Lama, Ta Lama! (Great Doctor)." + +In the yurta we were given tea while the old Soyot sat thinking deeply +about something. Afterwards he took counsel with his companions and +finally announced: + +"The wife of our Prince is sick in her eyes and I think the Prince will +be very glad if I lead the 'Ta Lama' to him. He will not punish me, +for he ordered that no 'bad people' should be allowed to pass; but that +should not stop the 'good people' from coming to us. + +"Do as you think best," I replied rather indifferently. "As a matter of +fact, I know how to treat eye diseases but I would go back if you say +so." + +"No, no!" the old man exclaimed with fear. "I shall guide you myself." + +Sitting by the fire, he lighted his pipe with a flint, wiped +the mouthpiece on his sleeve and offered it to me in true native +hospitality. I was "comme il faut" and smoked. Afterwards he offered his +pipe to each one of our company and received from each a cigarette, a +little tobacco or some matches. It was the seal on our friendship. Soon +in our yurta many persons piled up around us, men, women, children and +dogs. It was impossible to move. From among them emerged a Lama with +shaved face and close cropped hair, dressed in the flowing red garment +of his caste. His clothes and his expression were very different from +the common mass of dirty Soyots with their queues and felt caps finished +off with squirrel tails on the top. The Lama was very kindly disposed +towards us but looked ever greedily at our gold rings and watches. I +decided to exploit this avidity of the Servant of Buddha. Supplying +him with tea and dried bread, I made known to him that I was in need of +horses. + +"I have a horse. Will you buy it from me?" he asked. "But I do not +accept Russian bank notes. Let us exchange something." + +For a long time I bargained with him and at last for my gold wedding +ring, a raincoat and a leather saddle bag I received a fine Soyot +horse--to replace one of the pack animals we had lost--and a young goat. +We spent the night here and were feasted with fat mutton. In the morning +we moved off under the guidance of the old Soyot along the trail that +followed the valley of the Oyna, free from both mountains and swamps. +But we knew that the mounts of my friend and myself, together with three +others, were too worn down to make Kosogol and determined to try to buy +others in Soldjak. Soon we began to meet little groups of Soyot yurtas +with their cattle and horses round about. Finally we approached the +shifting capital of the Prince. Our guide rode on ahead for the parley +with him after assuring us that the Prince would be glad to welcome the +Ta Lama, though at the time I remarked great anxiety and fear in his +features as he spoke. Before long we emerged on to a large plain well +covered with small bushes. Down by the shore of the river we made out +big yurtas with yellow and blue flags floating over them and easily +guessed that this was the seat of government. Soon our guide returned +to us. His face was wreathed with smiles. He flourished his hands and +cried: + +"Noyon (the Prince) asks you to come! He is very glad!" + +From a warrior I was forced to change myself into a diplomat. As we +approached the yurta of the Prince, we were met by two officials, +wearing the peaked Mongol caps with peacock feathers rampants behind. +With low obeisances they begged the foreign "Noyon" to enter the yurta. +My friend the Tartar and I entered. In the rich yurta draped with +expensive silk we discovered a feeble, wizen-faced little old man with +shaven face and cropped hair, wearing also a high pointed beaver cap +with red silk apex topped off with a dark red button with the long +peacock feathers streaming out behind. On his nose were big Chinese +spectacles. He was sitting on a low divan, nervously clicking the beads +of his rosary. This was Ta Lama, Prince of Soldjak and High Priest of +the Buddhist Temple. He welcomed us very cordially and invited us to +sit down before the fire burning in the copper brazier. His surprisingly +beautiful Princess served us with tea and Chinese confections and +cakes. We smoked our pipes, though the Prince as a Lama did not indulge, +fulfilling, however, his duty as a host by raising to his lips the pipes +we offered him and handing us in return the green nephrite bottle of +snuff. Thus with the etiquette accomplished we awaited the words of the +Prince. He inquired whether our travels had been felicitous and what +were our further plans. I talked with him quite frankly and requested +his hospitality for the rest of our company and for the horses. He +agreed immediately and ordered four yurtas set up for us. + +"I hear that the foreign Noyon," the Prince said, "is a good doctor." + +"Yes, I know some diseases and have with me some medicines," I answered, +"but I am not a doctor. I am a scientist in other branches." + +But the Prince did not understand this. In his simple directness a man +who knows how to treat disease is a doctor. + +"My wife has had constant trouble for two months with her eyes," he +announced. "Help her." + +I asked the Princess to show me her eyes and I found the typical +conjunctivitis from the continual smoke of the yurta and the general +uncleanliness. The Tartar brought me my medicine case. I washed her eyes +with boric acid and dropped a little cocaine and a feeble solution of +sulphurate of zinc into them. + +"I beg you to cure me," pleaded the Princess. "Do not go away until +you have cured me. We shall give you sheep, milk and flour for all +your company. I weep now very often because I had very nice eyes and my +husband used to tell me they shone like the stars and now they are red. +I cannot bear it, I cannot!" + +She very capriciously stamped her foot and, coquettishly smiling at me, +asked: + +"Do you want to cure me? Yes?" + +The character and manners of lovely woman are the same everywhere: on +bright Broadway, along the stately Thames, on the vivacious boulevards +of gay Paris and in the silk-draped yurta of the Soyot Princess behind +the larch covered Tannu Ola. + +"I shall certainly try," assuringly answered the new oculist. + +We spent here ten days, surrounded by the kindness and friendship of the +whole family of the Prince. The eyes of the Princess, which eight years +ago had seduced the already old Prince Lama, were now recovered. She was +beside herself with joy and seldom left her looking-glass. + +The Prince gave me five fairly good horses, ten sheep and a bag of +flour, which was immediately transformed into dry bread. My friend +presented him with a Romanoff five-hundred-rouble note with a picture +of Peter the Great upon it, while I gave to him a small nugget of gold +which I had picked up in the bed of a stream. The Prince ordered one of +the Soyots to guide us to the Kosogol. The whole family of the Prince +conducted us to the monastery ten kilometres from the "capital." We did +not visit the monastery but we stopped at the "Dugun," a Chinese trading +establishment. The Chinese merchants looked at us in a very hostile +manner though they simultaneously offered us all sorts of goods, +thinking especially to catch us with their round bottles (lanhon) of +maygolo or sweet brandy made from aniseed. As we had neither lump silver +nor Chinese dollars, we could only look with longing at these attractive +bottles, till the Prince came to the rescue and ordered the Chinese to +put five of them in our saddle bags. + + +CHAPTER XIII + +MYSTERIES, MIRACLES AND A NEW FIGHT + + +In the evening of the same day we arrived at the Sacred Lake of Teri +Noor, a sheet of water eight kilometres across, muddy and yellow, with +low unattractive shores studded with large holes. In the middle of the +lake lay what was left of a disappearing island. On this were a few +trees and some old ruins. Our guide explained to us that two centuries +ago the lake did not exist and that a very strong Chinese fortress +stood here on the plain. A Chinese chief in command of the fortress gave +offence to an old Lama who cursed the place and prophesied that it would +all be destroyed. The very next day the water began rushing up from the +ground, destroyed the fortress and engulfed all the Chinese soldiers. +Even to this day when storms rage over the lake the waters cast up on +the shores the bones of men and horses who perished in it. This Teri +Noor increases its size every year, approaching nearer and nearer to the +mountains. Skirting the eastern shore of the lake, we began to climb a +snow-capped ridge. The road was easy at first but the guide warned us +that the most difficult bit was there ahead. We reached this point two +days later and found there a steep mountain side thickly set with forest +and covered with snow. Beyond it lay the lines of eternal snow--ridges +studded with dark rocks set in great banks of the white mantle that +gleamed bright under the clear sunshine. These were the eastern and +highest branches of the Tannu Ola system. We spent the night beneath +this wood and began the passage of it in the morning. At noon the guide +began leading us by zigzags in and out but everywhere our trail was +blocked by deep ravines, great jams of fallen trees and walls of rock +caught in their mad tobogganings from the mountain top. We struggled for +several hours, wore out our horses and, all of a sudden, turned up at +the place where we had made our last halt. It was very evident our Soyot +had lost his way; and on his face I noticed marked fear. + +"The old devils of the cursed forest will not allow us to pass," he +whispered with trembling lips. "It is a very ominous sign. We must +return to Kharga to the Noyon." + +But I threatened him and he took the lead again evidently without hope +or effort to find the way. Fortunately, one of our party, an Urianhai +hunter, noticed the blazes on the trees, the signs of the road which our +guide had lost. Following these, we made our way through the wood, came +into and crossed a belt of burned larch timber and beyond this dipped +again into a small live forest bordering the bottom of the mountains +crowned with the eternal snows. It grew dark so that we had to camp for +the night. The wind rose high and carried in its grasp a great white +sheet of snow that shut us off from the horizon on every side and buried +our camp deep in its folds. Our horses stood round like white ghosts, +refusing to eat or to leave the circle round our fire. The wind combed +their manes and tails. Through the niches in the mountains it roared and +whistled. From somewhere in the distance came the low rumble of a pack +of wolves, punctuated at intervals by the sharp individual barking that +a favorable gust of wind threw up into high staccato. + +As we lay by the fire, the Soyot came over to me and said: "Noyon, come +with me to the obo. I want to show you something." + +We went there and began to ascend the mountain. At the bottom of a very +steep slope was laid up a large pile of stones and tree trunks, making +a cone of some three metres in height. These obo are the Lamaite sacred +signs set up at dangerous places, the altars to the bad demons, rulers +of these places. Passing Soyots and Mongols pay tribute to the spirits +by hanging on the branches of the trees in the obo hatyk, long streamers +of blue silk, shreds torn from the lining of their coats or simply tufts +of hair cut from their horses' manes; or by placing on the stones lumps +of meat or cups of tea and salt. + +"Look at it," said the Soyot. "The hatyks are torn off. The demons are +angry, they will not allow us to pass, Noyon. . . ." + +He caught my hand and with supplicating voice whispered: "Let us go +back, Noyon; let us! The demons do not wish us to pass their mountains. +For twenty years no one has dared to pass these mountains and all bold +men who have tried have perished here. The demons fell upon them with +snowstorm and cold. Look! It is beginning already. . . . Go back to our +Noyon, wait for the warmer days and then. . . ." + +I did not listen further to the Soyot but turned back to the fire, which +I could hardly see through the blinding snow. Fearing our guide might +run away, I ordered a sentry to be stationed for the night to watch him. +Later in the night I was awakened by the sentry, who said to me: "Maybe +I am mistaken, but I think I heard a rifle." + +What could I say to it? Maybe some stragglers like ourselves were giving +a sign of their whereabouts to their lost companions, or perhaps the +sentry had mistaken for a rifle shot the sound of some falling rock +or frozen ice and snow. Soon I fell asleep again and suddenly saw in a +dream a very clear vision. Out on the plain, blanketed deep with snow, +was moving a line of riders. They were our pack horses, our Kalmuck and +the funny pied horse with the Roman nose. I saw us descending from this +snowy plateau into a fold in the mountains. Here some larch trees +were growing, close to which gurgled a small, open brook. Afterwards I +noticed a fire burning among the trees and then woke up. + +It grew light. I shook up the others and asked them to prepare quickly +so as not to lose time in getting under way. The storm was raging. The +snow blinded us and blotted out all traces of the road. The cold also +became more intense. At last we were in the saddles. The Soyot went +ahead trying to make out the trail. As we worked higher the guide less +seldom lost the way. Frequently we fell into deep holes covered with +snow; we scrambled up over slippery rocks. At last the Soyot swung his +horse round and, coming up to me, announced very positively: "I do not +want to die with you and I will not go further." + +My first motion was the swing of my whip back over my head. I was so +close to the "Promised Land" of Mongolia that this Soyot, standing in +the way of fulfilment of my wishes, seemed to me my worst enemy. But I +lowered my flourishing hand. Into my head flashed a quite wild thought. + +"Listen," I said. "If you move your horses, you will receive a bullet in +the back and you will perish not at the top of the mountain but at the +bottom. And now I will tell you what will happen to us. When we shall +have reached these rocks above, the wind will have ceased and the +snowstorm will have subsided. The sun will shine as we cross the snowy +plain above and afterwards we shall descend into a small valley where +there are larches growing and a stream of open running water. There we +shall light our fires and spend the night." + +The Soyot began to tremble with fright. + +"Noyon has already passed these mountains of Darkhat Ola?" he asked in +amazement. + +"No," I answered, "but last night I had a vision and I know that we +shall fortunately win over this ridge." + +"I will guide you!" exclaimed the Soyot, and, whipping his horse, led +the way up the steep slope to the top of the ridge of eternal snows. + +As we were passing along the narrow edge of a precipice, the Soyot +stopped and attentively examined the trail. + +"Today many shod horses have passed here!" he cried through the roar +of the storm. "Yonder on the snow the lash of a whip has been dragged. +These are not Soyots." + +The solution of this enigma appeared instantly. A volley rang out. One +of my companions cried out, as he caught hold of his right shoulder; one +pack horse fell dead with a bullet behind his ear. We quickly tumbled +out of our saddles, lay down behind the rocks and began to study the +situation. We were separated from a parallel spur of the mountain by a +small valley about one thousand paces across. There we made out about +thirty riders already dismounted and firing at us. I had never allowed +any fighting to be done until the initiative had been taken by the +other side. Our enemy fell upon us unawares and I ordered my company to +answer. + +"Aim at the horses!" cried Colonel Ostrovsky. Then he ordered the Tartar +and Soyot to throw our own animals. We killed six of theirs and probably +wounded others, as they got out of control. Also our rifles took toll +of any bold man who showed his head from behind his rock. We heard the +angry shouting and maledictions of Red soldiers who shot up our position +more and more animatedly. + +Suddenly I saw our Soyot kick up three of the horses and spring into the +saddle of one with the others in leash behind. Behind him sprang up the +Tartar and the Kalmuck. I had already drawn my rifle on the Soyot but, +as soon as I saw the Tartar and Kalmuck on their lovely horses behind +him, I dropped my gun and knew all was well. The Reds let off a volley +at the trio but they made good their escape behind the rocks and +disappeared. The firing continued more and more lively and I did not +know what to do. From our side we shot rarely, saving our cartridges. +Watching carefully the enemy, I noticed two black points on the snow +high above the Reds. They slowly approached our antagonists and finally +were hidden from view behind some sharp hillocks. When they emerged from +these, they were right on the edge of some overhanging rocks at the foot +of which the Reds lay concealed from us. By this time I had no doubt +that these were the heads of two men. Suddenly these men rose up and +I watched them flourish and throw something that was followed by two +deafening roars which re-echoed across the mountain valley. Immediately +a third explosion was followed by wild shouts and disorderly firing +among the Reds. Some of the horses rolled down the slope into the snow +below and the soldiers, chased by our shots, made off as fast as they +could down into the valley out of which we had come. + +Afterward the Tartar told me the Soyot had proposed to guide them around +behind the Reds to fall upon their rear with the bombs. When I had bound +up the wounded shoulder of the officer and we had taken the pack off the +killed animal, we continued our journey. Our position was complicated. +We had no doubt that the Red detachment came up from Mongolia. +Therefore, were there Red troops in Mongolia? What was their strength? +Where might we meet them? Consequently, Mongolia was no more the +Promised Land? Very sad thoughts took possession of us. + +But Nature pleased us. The wind gradually fell. The storm ceased. The +sun more and more frequently broke through the scudding clouds. We were +traveling upon a high, snow-covered plateau, where in one place the wind +blew it clean and in another piled it high with drifts which caught our +horses and held them so that they could hardly extricate themselves at +times. We had to dismount and wade through the white piles up to our +waists and often a man or horse was down and had to be helped to his +feet. At last the descent began and at sunset we stopped in the small +larch grove, spent the night at the fire among the trees and drank the +tea boiled in the water carried from the open mountain brook. In various +places we came across the tracks of our recent antagonists. + +Everything, even Nature herself and the angry demons of Darkhat Ola, had +helped us: but we were not gay, because again before us lay the dread +uncertainty that threatened us with new and possibly destructive +dangers. + + +CHAPTER XIV + +THE RIVER OF THE DEVIL + + +Ulan Taiga with Darkhat Ola lay behind us. We went forward very rapidly +because the Mongol plains began here, free from the impediments of +mountains. Everywhere splendid grazing lands stretched away. In places +there were groves of larch. We crossed some very rapid streams but they +were not deep and they had hard beds. After two days of travel over +the Darkhat plain we began meeting Soyots driving their cattle rapidly +toward the northwest into Orgarkha Ola. They communicated to us very +unpleasant news. + +The Bolsheviki from the Irkutsk district had crossed the Mongolian +border, captured the Russian colony at Khathyl on the southern shore +of Lake Kosogol and turned, off south toward Muren Kure, a Russian +settlement beside a big Lamaite monastery sixty miles south of Kosogol. +The Mongols told us there were no Russian troops between Khathyl and +Muren Kure, so we decided to pass between these two points to reach Van +Kure farther to the east. We took leave of our Soyot guide and, after +having sent three scouts in advance, moved forward. From the mountains +around the Kosogol we admired the splendid view of this broad Alpine +lake. It was set like a sapphire in the old gold of the surrounding +hills, chased with lovely bits of rich dark forestry. At night we +approached Khathyl with great precaution and stopped on the shore of the +river that flows from Kosogol, the Yaga or Egingol. We found a Mongol +who agreed to transport us to the other bank of the frozen stream and to +lead us by a safe road between Khathyl and Muren Kure. Everywhere along +the shore of the river were found large obo and small shrines to the +demons of the stream. + +"Why are there so many obo?" we asked the Mongol. + +"It is the River of the Devil, dangerous and crafty," replied the +Mongol. "Two days ago a train of carts went through the ice and three of +them with five soldiers were lost." + +We started to cross. The surface of the river resembled a thick piece +of looking-glass, being clear and without snow. Our horses walked very +carefully but some fell and floundered before they could regain their +feet. We were leading them by the bridle. With bowed heads and trembling +all over they kept their frightened eyes ever on the ice at their feet. +I looked down and understood their fear. Through the cover of one foot +of transparent ice one could clearly see the bottom of the river. Under +the lighting of the moon all the stones, the holes and even some of the +grasses were distinctly visible, even though the depth was ten metres +and more. The Yaga rushed under the ice with a furious speed, swirling +and marking its course with long bands of foam and bubbles. Suddenly I +jumped and stopped as though fastened to the spot. Along the surface of +the river ran the boom of a cannon, followed by a second and a third. + +"Quicker, quicker!" cried our Mongol, waving us forward with his hand. + +Another cannon boom and a crack ran right close to us. The horses +swung back on their haunches in protest, reared and fell, many of them +striking their heads severely on the ice. In a second it opened up two +feet wide, so that I could follow its jagged course along the surface. +Immediately up out of the opening the water spread over the ice with a +rush. + +"Hurry, hurry!" shouted the guide. + +With great difficulty we forced our horses to jump over this cleavage +and to continue on further. They trembled and disobeyed and only the +strong lash forced them to forget this panic of fear and go on. + +When we were safe on the farther bank and well into the woods, our +Mongol guide recounted to us how the river at times opens in this +mysterious way and leaves great areas of clear water. All the men and +animals on the river at such times must perish. The furious current of +cold water will always carry them down under the ice. At other times a +crack has been known to pass right under a horse and, where he fell in +with his front feet in the attempt to get back to the other side, the +crack has closed up and ground his legs or feet right off. + +The valley of Kosogol is the crater of an extinct volcano. Its outlines +may be followed from the high west shore of the lake. However, the +Plutonic force still acts and, asserting the glory of the Devil, forces +the Mongols to build obo and offer sacrifices at his shrines. We spent +all the night and all the next day hurrying away eastward to avoid a +meeting with the Reds and seeking good pasturage for our horses. At +about nine o'clock in the evening a fire shone out of the distance. My +friend and I made toward it with the feeling that it was surely a Mongol +yurta beside which we could camp in safety. We traveled over a mile +before making out distinctly the lines of a group of yurtas. But nobody +came out to meet us and, what astonished us more, we were not surrounded +by the angry black Mongolian dogs with fiery eyes. Still, from the +distance we had seen the fire and so there must be someone there. We +dismounted from our horses and approached on foot. From out of the yurta +rushed two Russian soldiers, one of whom shot at me with his pistol but +missed me and wounded my horse in the back through the saddle. I brought +him to earth with my Mauser and the other was killed by the butt end of +my friend's rifle. We examined the bodies and found in their pockets +the papers of soldiers of the Second Squadron of the Communist Interior +Defence. Here we spent the night. The owners of the yurtas had evidently +run away, for the Red soldiers had collected and packed in sacks the +property of the Mongols. Probably they were just planning to leave, as +they were fully dressed. We acquired two horses, which we found in the +bushes, two rifles and two automatic pistols with cartridges. In the +saddle bags we also found tea, tobacco, matches and cartridges--all of +these valuable supplies to help us keep further hold on our lives. + +Two days later we were approaching the shore of the River Uri when +we met two Russian riders, who were the Cossacks of a certain Ataman +Sutunin, acting against the Bolsheviki in the valley of the River +Selenga. They were riding to carry a message from Sutunin to +Kaigorodoff, chief of the Anti-Bolsheviki in the Altai region. They +informed us that along the whole Russian-Mongolian border the Bolshevik +troops were scattered; also that Communist agitators had penetrated to +Kiakhta, Ulankom and Kobdo and had persuaded the Chinese authorities +to surrender to the Soviet authorities all the refugees from Russia. +We knew that in the neighborhood of Urga and Van Kure engagements were +taking place between the Chinese troops and the detachments of the +Anti-Bolshevik Russian General Baron Ungern Sternberg and Colonel +Kazagrandi, who were fighting for the independence of Outer Mongolia. +Baron Ungern had now been twice defeated, so that the Chinese were +carrying on high-handed in Urga, suspecting all foreigners of having +relations with the Russian General. + +We realized that the whole situation was sharply reversed. The route to +the Pacific was closed. Reflecting very carefully over the problem, +I decided that we had but one possible exit left. We must avoid all +Mongolian cities with Chinese administration, cross Mongolia from north +to south, traverse the desert in the southern part of the Principality +of Jassaktu Khan, enter the Gobi in the western part of Inner Mongolia, +strike as rapidly as possible through sixty miles of Chinese territory +in the Province of Kansu and penetrate into Tibet. Here I hoped to +search out one of the English Consuls and with his help to reach some +English port in India. I understood thoroughly all the difficulties +incident to such an enterprise but I had no other choice. It only +remained to make this last foolish attempt or to perish without doubt +at the hands of the Boisheviki or languish in a Chinese prison. When I +announced my plan to my companions, without in any way hiding from them +all its dangers and quixotism, all of them answered very quickly and +shortly: "Lead us! We will follow." + +One circumstance was distinctly in our favor. We did not fear hunger, +for we had some supplies of tea, tobacco and matches and a surplus of +horses, saddles, rifles, overcoats and boots, which were an excellent +currency for exchange. So then we began to initiate the plan of the new +expedition. We should start to the south, leaving the town of Uliassutai +on our right and taking the direction of Zaganluk, then pass through the +waste lands of the district of Balir of Jassaktu Khan, cross the Naron +Khuhu Gobi and strike for the mountains of Boro. Here we should be able +to take a long rest to recuperate the strength of our horses and of +ourselves. The second section of our journey would be the passage +through the western part of Inner Mongolia, through the Little Gobi, +through the lands of the Torguts, over the Khara Mountains, across +Kansu, where our road must be chosen to the west of the Chinese town of +Suchow. From there we should have to enter the Dominion of Kuku Nor and +then work on southward to the head waters of the Yangtze River. Beyond +this I had but a hazy notion, which however I was able to verify from a +map of Asia in the possession of one of the officers, to the effect that +the mountain chains to the west of the sources of the Yangtze separated +that river system from the basin of the Brahmaputra in Tibet Proper, +where I expected to be able to find English assistance. + + +CHAPTER XV + +THE MARCH OF GHOSTS + + +In no other way can I describe the journey from the River Ero to the +border of Tibet. About eleven hundred miles through the snowy steppes, +over mountains and across deserts we traveled in forty-eight days. +We hid from the people as we journeyed, made short stops in the most +desolate places, fed for whole weeks on nothing but raw, frozen meat in +order to avoid attracting attention by the smoke of fires. Whenever we +needed to purchase a sheep or a steer for our supply department, we sent +out only two unarmed men who represented to the natives that they were +the workmen of some Russian colonists. We even feared to shoot, although +we met a great herd of antelopes numbering as many as five thousand +head. Behind Balir in the lands of the Lama Jassaktu Khan, who had +inherited his throne as a result of the poisoning of his brother at Urga +by order of the Living Buddha, we met wandering Russian Tartars who had +driven their herds all the way from Altai and Abakan. They welcomed us +very cordially, gave us oxen and thirty-six bricks of tea. Also they +saved us from inevitable destruction, for they told us that at this +season it was utterly impossible for horses to make the trip across the +Gobi, where there was no grass at all. We must buy camels by exchanging +for them our horses and some other of our bartering supplies. One of the +Tartars the next day brought to their camp a rich Mongol with whom he +drove the bargain for this trade. He gave us nineteen camels and took +all our horses, one rifle, one pistol and the best Cossack saddle. He +advised us by all means to visit the sacred Monastery of Narabanchi, the +last Lamaite monastery on the road from Mongolia to Tibet. He told us +that the Holy Hutuktu, "the Incarnate Buddha," would be greatly offended +if we did not visit the monastery and his famous "Shrine of Blessings," +where all travelers going to Tibet always offered prayers. Our Kalmuck +Lamaite supported the Mongol in this. I decided to go there with the +Kalmuck. The Tartars gave me some big silk hatyk as presents and loaned +us four splendid horses. Although the monastery was fifty-five miles +distant, by nine o'clock in the evening I entered the yurta of this holy +Hutuktu. + +He was a middle-aged, clean shaven, spare little man, laboring under the +name of Jelyb Djamsrap Hutuktu. He received us very cordially and was +greatly pleased with the presentation of the hatyk and with my +knowledge of the Mongol etiquette in which my Tartar had been long and +persistently instructing me. He listened to me most attentively and gave +valuable advice about the road, presenting me then with a ring which has +since opened for me the doors of all Lamaite monasteries. The name of +this Hutuktu is highly esteemed not only in all Mongolia but in Tibet +and in the Lamaite world of China. We spent the night in his splendid +yurta and on the following morning visited the shrines where they were +conducting very solemn services with the music of gongs, tom-toms and +whistling. The Lamas with their deep voices were intoning the prayers +while the lesser priests answered with their antiphonies. The sacred +phrase: "Om! Mani padme Hung!" was endlessly repeated. + +The Hutuktu wished us success, presented us with a large yellow hatyk +and accompanied us to the monastery gate. When we were in our saddles he +said: + +"Remember that you are always welcome guests here. Life is very +complicated and anything may happen. Perhaps you will be forced in +future to re-visit distant Mongolia and then do not miss Narabanchi +Kure." + +That night we returned to the Tartars and the next day continued our +journey. As I was very tired, the slow, easy motion of the camel was +welcome and restful to me. All the day I dozed off at intervals to +sleep. It turned out to be very disastrous for me; for, when my camel +was going up the steep bank of a river, in one of my naps I fell off +and hit my head on a stone, lost consciousness and woke up to find +my overcoat covered with blood. My friends surrounded me with their +frightened faces. They bandaged my head and we started off again. I only +learned long afterwards from a doctor who examined me that I had cracked +my skull as the price of my siesta. + +We crossed the eastern ranges of the Altai and the Karlik Tag, which are +the most oriental sentinels the great Tian Shan system throws out into +the regions of the Gobi; and then traversed from the north to the south +the entire width of the Khuhu Gobi. Intense cold ruled all this time and +fortunately the frozen sands gave us better speed. Before passing the +Khara range, we exchanged our rocking-chair steeds for horses, a deal in +which the Torguts skinned us badly like the true "old clothes men" they +are. + +Skirting around these mountains we entered Kansu. It was a dangerous +move, for the Chinese were arresting all refugees and I feared for my +Russian fellow-travelers. During the days we hid in the ravines, the +forests and bushes, making forced marches at night. Four days we thus +used in this passage of Kansu. The few Chinese peasants we did encounter +were peaceful appearing and most hospitable. A marked sympathetic +interest surrounded the Kalmuck, who could speak a bit of Chinese, +and my box of medicines. Everywhere we found many ill people, chiefly +afflicted with eye troubles, rheumatism and skin diseases. + +As we were approaching Nan Shan, the northeast branch of the Altyn Tag +(which is in turn the east branch of the Pamir and Karakhorum system), +we overhauled a large caravan of Chinese merchants going to Tibet +and joined them. For three days we were winding through the endless +ravine-like valleys of these mountains and ascending the high passes. +But we noticed that the Chinese knew how to pick the easiest routes +for caravans over all these difficult places. In a state of +semi-consciousness I made this whole journey toward the large group of +swampy lakes, feeding the Koko Nor and a whole network of large rivers. +From fatigue and constant nervous strain, probably helped by the blow +on my head, I began suffering from sharp attacks of chills and fever, +burning up at times and then chattering so with my teeth that I +frightened my horse who several times threw me from the saddle. I raved, +cried out at times and even wept. I called my family and instructed them +how they must come to me. I remember as though through a dream how I was +taken from the horse by my companions, laid on the ground, supplied with +Chinese brandy and, when I recovered a little, how they said to me: + +"The Chinese merchants are heading for the west and we must travel +south." + +"No! To the north," I replied very sharply. + +"But no, to the south," my companions assured me. + +"God and the Devil!" I angrily ejaculated, "we have just swum the Little +Yenisei and Algyak is to the north!" + +"We are in Tibet," remonstrated my companions. "We must reach the +Brahmaputra." + +Brahmaputra. . . . Brahmaputra. . . . This word revolved in my fiery +brain, made a terrible noise and commotion. Suddenly I remembered +everything and opened my eyes. I hardly moved my lips and soon I +again lost consciousness. My companions brought me to the monastery of +Sharkhe, where the Lama doctor quickly brought me round with a solution +of fatil or Chinese ginseng. In discussing our plans he expressed grave +doubt as to whether we would get through Tibet but he did not wish to +explain to me the reason for his doubts. + + +CHAPTER XVI + +IN MYSTERIOUS TIBET + + +A fairly broad road led out from Sharkhe through the mountains and on +the fifth day of our two weeks' march to the south from the monastery +we emerged into the great bowl of the mountains in whose center lay the +large lake of Koko Nor. If Finland deserves the ordinary title of the +"Land of Ten Thousand Lakes," the dominion of Koko Nor may certainly +with justice be called the "Country of a Million Lakes." We skirted +this lake on the west between it and Doulan Kitt, zigzagging between the +numerous swamps, lakes and small rivers, deep and miry. The water was +not here covered with ice and only on the tops of the mountains did we +feel the cold winds sharply. We rarely met the natives of the country +and only with greatest difficulty did our Kalmuck learn the course of +the road from the occasional shepherds we passed. From the eastern shore +of the Lake of Tassoun we worked round to a monastery on the further +side, where we stopped for a short rest. Besides ourselves there was +also another group of guests in the holy place. These were Tibetans. +Their behavior was very impertinent and they refused to speak with us. +They were all armed, chiefly with the Russian military rifles and were +draped with crossed bandoliers of cartridges with two or three pistols +stowed beneath belts with more cartridges sticking out. They examined +us very sharply and we readily realized that they were estimating our +martial strength. After they had left on that same day I ordered our +Kalmuck to inquire from the High Priest of the temple exactly who they +were. For a long time the monk gave evasive answers but when I showed +him the ring of Hutuktu Narabanchi and presented him with a large yellow +hatyk, he became more communicative. + +"Those are bad people," he explained. "Have a care of them." + +However, he was not willing to give their names, explaining his refusal +by citing the Law of Buddhist lands against pronouncing the name of +one's father, teacher or chief. Afterwards I found out that in North +Tibet there exists the same custom as in North China. Here and there +bands of hunghutze wander about. They appear at the headquarters of the +leading trading firms and at the monasteries, claim tribute and after +their collections become the protectors of the district. Probably this +Tibetan monastery had in this band just such protectors. + +When we continued our trip, we frequently noticed single horsemen far +away or on the horizon, apparently studying our movements with care. All +our attempts to approach them and enter into conversation with them were +entirely unsuccessful. On their speedy little horses they disappeared +like shadows. As we reached the steep and difficult Pass on the Hamshan +and were preparing to spend the night there, suddenly far up on a ridge +above us appeared about forty horsemen with entirely white mounts and +without formal introduction or warning spattered us with a hail of +bullets. Two of our officers fell with a cry. One had been instantly +killed while the other lived some few minutes. I did not allow my men +to shoot but instead I raised a white flag and started forward with +the Kalmuck for a parley. At first they fired two shots at us but then +ceased firing and sent down a group of riders from the ridge toward +us. We began the parley. The Tibetans explained that Hamshan is a holy +mountain and that here one must not spend the night, advising us to +proceed farther where we could consider ourselves in safety. They +inquired from us whence we came and whither we were going, stated in +answer to our information about the purpose of our journey that they +knew the Bolsheviki and considered them the liberators of the people of +Asia from the yoke of the white race. I certainly did not want to begin +a political quarrel with them and so turned back to our companions. +Riding down the slope toward our camp, I waited momentarily for a shot +in the back but the Tibetan hunghutze did not shoot. + +We moved forward, leaving among the stones the bodies of two of our +companions as sad tribute to the difficulties and dangers of our +journey. We rode all night, with our exhausted horses constantly +stopping and some lying down under us, but we forced them ever onward. +At last, when the sun was at its zenith, we finally halted. Without +unsaddling our horses, we gave them an opportunity to lie down for a +little rest. Before us lay a broad, swampy plain, where was evidently +the sources of the river Ma-chu. Not far beyond lay the Lake of Aroung +Nor. We made our fire of cattle dung and began boiling water for our +tea. Again without any warning the bullets came raining in from all +sides. Immediately we took cover behind convenient rocks and waited +developments. The firing became faster and closer, the raiders appeared +on the whole circle round us and the bullets came ever in increasing +numbers. We had fallen into a trap and had no hope but to perish. We +realized this clearly. I tried anew to begin the parley; but when I +stood up with my white flag, the answer was only a thicker rain of +bullets and unfortunately one of these, ricocheting off a rock, struck +me in the left leg and lodged there. At the same moment another one of +our company was killed. We had no other choice and were forced to begin +fighting. The struggle continued for about two hours. Besides myself +three others received slight wounds. We resisted as long as we could. +The hunghutze approached and our situation became desperate. + +"There's no choice," said one of my associates, a very expert Colonel. +"We must mount and ride for it . . . anywhere." + +"Anywhere. . . ." It was a terrible word! We consulted for but an +instant. It was apparent that with this band of cut-throats behind us +the farther we went into Tibet, the less chance we had of saving our +lives. + +We decided to return to Mongolia. But how? That we did not know. And +thus we began our retreat. Firing all the time, we trotted our horses +as fast as we could toward the north. One after another three of my +companions fell. There lay my Tartar with a bullet through his neck. +After him two young and fine stalwart officers were carried from their +saddles with cries of death, while their scared horses broke out across +the plain in wild fear, perfect pictures of our distraught selves. This +emboldened the Tibetans, who became more and more audacious. A bullet +struck the buckle on the ankle strap of my right foot and carried it, +with a piece of leather and cloth, into my leg just above the ankle. +My old and much tried friend, the agronome, cried out as he grasped his +shoulder and then I saw him wiping and bandaging as best as he could his +bleeding forehead. A second afterward our Kalmuck was hit twice right +through the palm of the same hand, so that it was entirely shattered. +Just at this moment fifteen of the hunghutze rushed against us in a +charge. + +"Shoot at them with volley fire!" commanded our Colonel. + +Six robber bodies lay on the turf, while two others of the gang were +unhorsed and ran scampering as fast as they could after their retreating +fellows. Several minutes later the fire of our antagonists ceased and +they raised a white flag. Two riders came forward toward us. In the +parley it developed that their chief had been wounded through the chest +and they came to ask us to "render first aid." At once I saw a ray +of hope. I took my box of medicines and my groaning, cursing, wounded +Kalmuck to interpret for me. + +"Give that devil some cyanide of potassium," urged my companions. + +But I devised another scheme. + +We were led to the wounded chief. There he lay on the saddle cloths +among the rocks, represented to us to be a Tibetan but I at once +recognized him from his cast of countenance to be a Sart or Turcoman, +probably from the southern part of Turkestan. He looked at me with +a begging and frightened gaze. Examining him, I found the bullet had +passed through his chest from left to right, that he had lost much blood +and was very weak. Conscientiously I did all that I could for him. In +the first place I tried on my own tongue all the medicines to be used on +him, even the iodoform, in order to demonstrate that there was no +poison among them. I cauterized the wound with iodine, sprinkled it with +iodoform and applied the bandages. I ordered that the wounded man be not +touched nor moved and that he be left right where he lay. Then I taught +a Tibetan how the dressing must be changed and left with him medicated +cotton, bandages and a little iodoform. To the patient, in whom the +fever was already developing, I gave a big dose of aspirin and left +several tablets of quinine with them. Afterwards, addressing myself to +the bystanders through my Kalmuck, I said very solemnly: + +"The wound is very dangerous but I gave to your Chief very strong +medicine and hope that he will recover. One condition, however, +is necessary: the bad demons which have rushed to his side for his +unwarranted attack upon us innocent travelers will instantly kill him, +if another shot is let off against us. You must not even keep a single +cartridge in your rifles." + +With these words I ordered the Kalmuck to empty his rifle and I, at +the same time, took all the cartridges out of my Mauser. The Tibetans +instantly and very servilely followed my example. + +"Remember that I told you: 'Eleven days and eleven nights do not move +from this place and do not charge your rifles.' Otherwise the demon of +death will snatch off your Chief and will pursue you!"--and with these +words I solemnly drew forth and raised above their heads the ring of +Hutuktu Narabanchi. + +I returned to my companions and calmed them. I told them we were safe +against further attack from the robbers and that we must only guess the +way to reach Mongolia. Our horses were so exhausted and thin that on +their bones we could have hung our overcoats. We spent two days here, +during which time I frequently visited my patient. It also gave us +opportunity to bandage our own fortunately light wounds and to secure +a little rest; though unfortunately I had nothing but a jackknife +with which to dig the bullet out of my left calf and the shoemaker's +accessories from my right ankle. Inquiring from the brigands about the +caravan roads, we soon made our way out to one of the main routes and +had the good fortune to meet there the caravan of the young Mongol +Prince Pounzig, who was on a holy mission carrying a message from +the Living Buddha in Urga to the Dalai Lama in Lhasa. He helped us to +purchase horses, camels and food. + +With all our arms and supplies spent in barter during the journey for +the purchase of transport and food, we returned stripped and broken to +the Narabanchi Monastery, where we were welcomed by the Hutuktu. + +"I knew you would come back," said he. "The divinations revealed it all +to me." + +With six of our little band left behind us in Tibet to pay the eternal +toll of our dash for the south we returned but twelve to the Monastery +and waited there two weeks to re-adjust ourselves and learn how events +would again set us afloat on this turbulent sea to steer for any port +that Destiny might indicate. The officers enlisted in the detachment +which was then being formed in Mongolia to fight against the destroyers +of their native land, the Bolsheviki. My original companion and I +prepared to continue our journey over Mongolian plains with whatever +further adventures and dangers might come in the struggle to escape to a +place of safety. + +And now, with the scenes of that trying march so vividly recalled, I +would dedicate these chapters to my gigantic, old and ruggedly tried +friend, the agronome, to my Russian fellow-travelers, and especially, to +the sacred memory of those of our companions whose bodies lie cradled +in the sleep among the mountains of Tibet--Colonel Ostrovsky, Captains +Zuboff and Turoff, Lieutenant Pisarjevsky, Cossack Vernigora and +Tartar Mahomed Spirin. Also here I express my deep thanks for help and +friendship to the Prince of Soldjak, Hereditary Noyon Ta Lama and to +the Kampo Gelong of Narabanchi Monastery, the honorable Jelyb Djamsrap +Hutuktu. + + + + +Part II + +THE LAND OF DEMONS + + +CHAPTER XVII + +MYSTERIOUS MONGOLIA + + +In the heart of Asia lies the enormous, mysterious and rich country of +Mongolia. From somewhere on the snowy slopes of the Tian Shan and from +the hot sands of Western Zungaria to the timbered ridges of the Sayan +and to the Great Wall of China it stretches over a huge portion of +Central Asia. The cradle of peoples, histories and legends; the native +land of bloody conquerors, who have left here their capitals covered +by the sand of the Gobi, their mysterious rings and their ancient nomad +laws; the states of monks and evil devils, the country of wandering +tribes administered by the descendants of Jenghiz Khan and Kublai +Khan--Khans and Princes of the Junior lines: that is Mongolia. + +Mysterious country of the cults of Rama, Sakkia-Mouni, Djonkapa and +Paspa, cults guarded by the very person of the living Buddha--Buddha +incarnated in the third dignitary of the Lamaite religion--Bogdo Gheghen +in Ta Kure or Urga; the land of mysterious doctors, prophets, sorcerers, +fortune-tellers and witches; the land of the sign of the swastika; the +land which has not forgotten the thoughts of the long deceased great +potentates of Asia and of half of Europe: that is Mongolia. + +The land of nude mountains, of plains burned by the sun and killed by +the cold, of ill cattle and ill people; the nest of pests, anthrax +and smallpox; the land of boiling hot springs and of mountain passes +inhabited by demons; of sacred lakes swarming with fish; of wolves, rare +species of deer and mountain goats, marmots in millions, wild horses, +wild donkeys and wild camels that have never known the bridle, ferocious +dogs and rapacious birds of prey which devour the dead bodies cast out +on the plains by the people: that is Mongolia. + +The land whose disappearing primitive people gaze upon the bones of +their forefathers whitening in the sands and dust of their plains; where +are dying out the people who formerly conquered China, Siam, Northern +India and Russia and broke their chests against the iron lances of +the Polish knights, defending then all the Christian world against the +invasion of wild and wandering Asia: that is Mongolia. + +The land swelling with natural riches, producing nothing, in need of +everything, destitute and suffering from the world's cataclysm: that is +Mongolia. + +In this land, by order of Fate, after my unsuccessful attempt to reach +the Indian Ocean through Tibet, I spent half a year in the struggle to +live and to escape. My old and faithful friend and I were compelled, +willy-nilly, to participate in the exceedingly important and dangerous +events transpiring in Mongolia in the year of grace 1921. Thanks to +this, I came to know the calm, good and honest Mongolian people; I +read their souls, saw their sufferings and hopes; I witnessed the whole +horror of their oppression and fear before the face of Mystery, there +where Mystery pervades all life. I watched the rivers during the severe +cold break with a rumbling roar their chains of ice; saw lakes cast up +on their shores the bones of human beings; heard unknown wild voices +in the mountain ravines; made out the fires over miry swamps of the +will-o'-the-wisps; witnessed burning lakes; gazed upward to mountains +whose peaks could not be scaled; came across great balls of writhing +snakes in the ditches in winter; met with streams which are eternally +frozen, rocks like petrified caravans of camels, horsemen and carts; and +over all saw the barren mountains whose folds looked like the mantle of +Satan, which the glow of the evening sun drenched with blood. + +"Look up there!" cried an old shepherd, pointing to the slope of the +cursed Zagastai. "That is no mountain. It is HE who lies in his red +mantle and awaits the day when he will rise again to begin the fight +with the good spirits." + +And as he spoke I recalled the mystic picture of the noted painter +Vroubel. The same nude mountains with the violet and purple robes of +Satan, whose face is half covered by an approaching grey cloud. Mongolia +is a terrible land of mystery and demons. Therefore it is no wonder that +here every violation of the ancient order of life of the wandering nomad +tribes is transformed into streams of red blood and horror, ministering +to the demonic pleasure of Satan couched on the bare mountains and robed +in the grey cloak of dejection and sadness, or in the purple mantle of +war and vengeance. + +After returning from the district of Koko Nor to Mongolia and resting a +few days at the Narabanchi Monastery, we went to live in Uliassutai, the +capital of Western Outer Mongolia. It is the last purely Mongolian town +to the west. In Mongolia there are but three purely Mongolian towns, +Urga, Uliassutai and Ulankom. The fourth town, Kobdo, has an essentially +Chinese character, being the center of Chinese administration in this +district inhabited by the wandering tribes only nominally recognizing +the influence of either Peking or Urga. In Uliassutai and Ulankom, +besides the unlawful Chinese commissioners and troops, there were +stationed Mongolian governors or "Saits," appointed by the decree of the +Living Buddha. + +When we arrived in that town, we were at once in the sea of political +passions. The Mongols were protesting in great agitation against the +Chinese policy in their country; the Chinese raged and demanded from the +Mongolians the payment of taxes for the full period since the autonomy +of Mongolia had been forcibly extracted from Peking; Russian colonists +who had years before settled near the town and in the vicinity of the +great monasteries or among the wandering tribes had separated into +factions and were fighting against one another; from Urga came the +news of the struggle for the maintenance of the independence of Outer +Mongolia, led by the Russian General, Baron Ungern von Sternberg; +Russian officers and refugees congregated in detachments, against which +the Chinese authorities protested but which the Mongols welcomed; the +Bolsheviki, worried by the formation of White detachments in Mongolia, +sent their troops to the borders of Mongolia; from Irkutsk and Chita +to Uliassutai and Urga envoys were running from the Bolsheviki to the +Chinese commissioners with various proposals of all kinds; the Chinese +authorities in Mongolia were gradually entering into secret relations +with the Bolsheviki and in Kiakhta and Ulankom delivered to them the +Russian refugees, thus violating recognized international law; in +Urga the Bolsheviki set up a Russian communistic municipality; Russian +Consuls were inactive; Red troops in the region of Kosogol and the +valley of the Selenga had encounters with Anti-Bolshevik officers; the +Chinese authorities established garrisons in the Mongolian towns +and sent punitive expeditions into the country; and, to complete the +confusion, the Chinese troops carried out house-to-house searches, +during which they plundered and stole. + +Into what an atmosphere we had fallen after our hard and dangerous trip +along the Yenisei, through Urianhai, Mongolia, the lands of the Turguts, +Kansu and Koko Nor! + +"Do you know," said my old friend to me, "I prefer strangling Partisans +and fighting with the hunghutze to listening to news and more anxious +news!" + +He was right; for the worst of it was that in this bustle and whirl of +facts, rumours and gossip the Reds could approach troubled Uliassutai +and take everyone with their bare hands. We should very willingly have +left this town of uncertainties but we had no place to go. In the north +were the hostile Partisans and Red troops; to the south we had already +lost our companions and not a little of our own blood; to the west raged +the Chinese administrators and detachments; and to the east a war had +broken out, the news of which, in spite of the attempts of the Chinese +authorities at secrecy, had filtered through and had testified to +the seriousness of the situation in this part of Outer Mongolia. +Consequently we had no choice but to remain in Uliassutai. Here also +were living several Polish soldiers who had escaped from the prison +camps in Russia, two Polish families and two American firms, all in +the same plight as ourselves. We joined together and made our own +intelligence department, very carefully watching the evolution of +events. We succeeded in forming good connections with the Chinese +commissioner and with the Mongolian Sait, which greatly helped us in our +orientation. + +What was behind all these events in Mongolia? The very clever Mongol +Sait of Uliassutai gave me the following explanation. + +"According to the agreements between Mongolia, China and Russia of +October 21, 1912, of October 23, 1913, and of June 7, 1915, Outer +Mongolia was accorded independence and the Moral Head of our 'Yellow +Faith,' His Holiness the Living Buddha, became the Suzerain of the +Mongolian people of Khalkha or Outer Mongolia with the title of 'Bogdo +Djebtsung Damba Hutuktu Khan.' While Russia was still strong and +carefully watched her policy in Asia, the Government of Peking kept the +treaty; but, when, at the beginning of the war with Germany, Russia was +compelled to withdraw her troops from Siberia, Peking began to claim the +return of its lost rights in Mongolia. It was because of this that the +first two treaties of 1912 and 1913 were supplemented by the convention +of 1915. However, in 1916, when all the forces of Russia were +pre-occupied in the unsuccessful war and afterwards when the first +Russian revolution broke out in February, 1917, overthrowing the +Romanoff Dynasty, the Chinese Government openly retook Mongolia. They +changed all the Mongolian ministers and Saits, replacing them with +individuals friendly to China; arrested many Mongolian autonomists and +sent them to prison in Peking; set up their administration in Urga and +other Mongol towns; actually removed His Holiness Bogdo Khan from the +affairs of administration; made him only a machine for signing Chinese +decrees; and at last introduced into Mongolia their troops. From that +moment there developed an energetic flow of Chinese merchants and +coolies into Mongolia. The Chinese began to demand the payment of taxes +and dues from 1912. The Mongolian population were rapidly stripped of +their wealth and now in the vicinities of our towns and monasteries you +can see whole settlements of beggar Mongols living in dugouts. All our +Mongol arsenals and treasuries were requisitioned. All monasteries +were forced to pay taxes; all Mongols working for the liberty of their +country were persecuted; through bribery with Chinese silver, orders and +titles the Chinese secured a following among the poorer Mongol Princes. +It is easy to understand how the governing class, His Holiness, Khans, +Princes, and high Lamas, as well as the ruined and oppressed people, +remembering that the Mongol rulers had once held Peking and China in +their hands and under their reign had given her the first place in +Asia, were definitely hostile to the Chinese administrators acting thus. +Insurrection was, however, impossible. We had no arms. All our leaders +were under surveillance and every movement by them toward an armed +resistance would have ended in the same prison at Peking where eighty +of our Nobles, Princes and Lamas died from hunger and torture after a +previous struggle for the liberty of Mongolia. Some abnormally strong +shock was necessary to drive the people into action. This was given by +the Chinese administrators, General Cheng Yi and General Chu Chi-hsiang. +They announced that His Holiness Bogdo Khan was under arrest in his +own palace, and they recalled to his attention the former decree of +the Peking Government--held by the Mongols to be unwarranted and +illegal--that His Holiness was the last Living Buddha. This was enough. +Immediately secret relations were made between the people and their +Living God, and plans were at once elaborated for the liberation of His +Holiness and for the struggle for liberty and freedom of our people. We +were helped by the great Prince of the Buriats, Djam Bolon, who began +parleys with General Ungern, then engaged in fighting the Bolsheviki +in Transbaikalia, and invited him to enter Mongolia and help in the war +against the Chinese. Then our struggle for liberty began." + +Thus the Sait of Uliassutai explained the situation to me. Afterwards +I heard that Baron Ungern, who had agreed to fight for the liberty +of Mongolia, directed that the mobilization of the Mongolians in the +northern districts be forwarded at once and promised to enter Mongolia +with his own small detachment, moving along the River Kerulen. +Afterwards he took up relations with the other Russian detachment of +Colonel Kazagrandi and, together with the mobilized Mongolian riders, +began the attack on Urga. Twice he was defeated but on the third of +February, 1921, he succeeded in capturing the town and replaced the +Living Buddha on the throne of the Khans. + +At the end of March, however, these events were still unknown in +Uliassutai. We knew neither of the fall of Urga nor of the destruction +of the Chinese army of nearly 15,000 in the battles of Maimachen on the +shore of the Tola and on the roads between Urga and Ude. The Chinese +carefully concealed the truth by preventing anybody from passing +westward from Urga. However, rumours existed and troubled all. The +atmosphere became more and more tense, while the relations between the +Chinese on the one side and the Mongolians and Russians on the other +became more and more strained. At this time the Chinese Commissioner +in Uliassutai was Wang Tsao-tsun and his advisor, Fu Hsiang, both very +young and inexperienced men. The Chinese authorities had dismissed the +Uliassutai Sait, the prominent Mongolian patriot, Prince Chultun +Beyle, and had appointed a Lama Prince friendly to China, the former +Vice-Minister of War in Urga. Oppression increased. The searching of +Russian officers' and colonists' houses and quarters commenced, open +relations with the Bolsheviki followed and arrest and beatings became +common. The Russian officers formed a secret detachment of sixty men +so that they could defend themselves. However, in this detachment +disagreements soon sprang up between Lieutenant-Colonel M. M. Michailoff +and some of his officers. It was evident that in the decisive moment the +detachment must separate into factions. + +We foreigners in council decided to make a thorough reconnaissance in +order to know whether there was danger of Red troops arriving. My old +companion and I agreed to do this scouting. Prince Chultun Beyle gave +us a very good guide--an old Mongol named Tzeren, who spoke and read +Russian perfectly. He was a very interesting personage, holding the +position of interpreter with the Mongolian authorities and sometimes +with the Chinese Commissioner. Shortly before he had been sent as +a special envoy to Peking with very important despatches and this +incomparable horseman had made the journey between Uliassutai and +Peking, that is 1,800 miles, in nine days, incredible as it may seem. He +prepared himself for the journey by binding all his abdomen and chest, +legs, arms and neck with strong cotton bandages to protect himself from +the wracks and strains of such a period in the saddle. In his cap he +bore three eagle feathers as a token that he had received orders to fly +like a bird. Armed with a special document called a tzara, which gave +him the right to receive at all post stations the best horses, one +to ride and one fully saddled to lead as a change, together with two +oulatchen or guards to accompany him and bring back the horses from the +next station or ourton, he made the distance of from fifteen to thirty +miles between stations at full gallop, stopping only long enough to have +the horses and guards changed before he was off again. Ahead of him rode +one oulatchen with the best horses to enable him to announce and prepare +in advance the complement of steeds at the next station. Each oulatchen +had three horses in all, so that he could swing from one that had given +out and release him to graze until his return to pick him up and lead or +ride him back home. At every third ourton, without leaving his saddle, +he received a cup of hot green tea with salt and continued his race +southward. After seventeen or eighteen hours of such riding he stopped +at the ourton for the night or what was left of it, devoured a leg of +boiled mutton and slept. Thus he ate once a day and five times a day had +tea; and so he traveled for nine days! + +With this servant we moved out one cold winter morning in the direction +of Kobdo, just over three hundred miles, because from there we had +received the disquieting rumours that the Red troops had entered +Ulankom and that the Chinese authorities had handed over to them all the +Europeans in the town. We crossed the River Dzaphin on the ice. It is a +terrible stream. Its bed is full of quicksands, which in summer suck +in numbers of camels, horses and men. We entered a long, winding valley +among the mountains covered with deep snow and here and there with +groves of the black wood of the larch. About halfway to Kobdo we came +across the yurta of a shepherd on the shore of the small Lake of Baga +Nor, where evening and a strong wind whirling gusts of snow in our faces +easily persuaded us to stop. By the yurta stood a splendid bay horse +with a saddle richly ornamerited with silver and coral. As we turned +in from the road, two Mongols left the yurta very hastily; one of them +jumped into the saddle and quickly disappeared in the plain behind the +snowy hillocks. We clearly made out the flashing folds of his yellow +robe under the great outer coat and saw his large knife sheathed in a +green leather scabbard and handled with horn and ivory. The other man +was the host of the yurta, the shepherd of a local prince, Novontziran. +He gave signs of great pleasure at seeing us and receiving us in his +yurta. + +"Who was the rider on the bay horse?" we asked. + +He dropped his eyes and was silent. + +"Tell us," we insisted. "If you do not wish to speak his name, it means +that you are dealing with a bad character." + +"No! No!" he remonstrated, flourishing his hands. "He is a good, great +man; but the law does not permit me to speak his name." + +We at once understood that the man was either the chief of the shepherd +or some high Lama. Consequently we did not further insist and began +making our sleeping arrangements. Our host set three legs of mutton to +boil for us, skillfully cutting out the bones with his heavy knife. We +chatted and learned that no one had seen Red troops around this region +but in Kobdo and in Ulankom the Chinese soldiers were oppressing the +population, and were beating to death with the bamboo Mongol men who +were defending their women against the ravages of these Chinese troops. +Some of the Mongols had retreated to the mountains to join detachments +under the command of Kaigordoff, an Altai Tartar officer who was +supplying them with weapons. + + +CHAPTER XVIII + +THE MYSTERIOUS LAMA AVENGER + + +We rested soundly in the yurta after the two days of travel which had +brought us one hundred seventy miles through the snow and sharp cold. +Round the evening meal of juicy mutton we were talking freely and +carelessly when suddenly we heard a low, hoarse voice: + +"Sayn--Good evening!" + +We turned around from the brazier to the door and saw a medium height, +very heavy set Mongol in deerskin overcoat and cap with side flaps and +the long, wide tying strings of the same material. Under his girdle +lay the same large knife in the green sheath which we had seen on the +departing horseman. + +"Amoursayn," we answered. + +He quickly untied his girdle and laid aside his overcoat. He stood +before us in a wonderful gown of silk, yellow as beaten gold and girt +with a brilliant blue sash. His cleanly shaven face, short hair, red +coral rosary on the left hand and his yellow garment proved clearly that +before us stood some high Lama Priest,--with a big Colt under his blue +sash! + +I turned to my host and Tzeren and read in their faces fear and +veneration. The stranger came over to the brazier and sat down. + +"Let's speak Russian," he said and took a bit of meat. + +The conversation began. The stranger began to find fault with the +Government of the Living Buddha in Urga. + +"There they liberate Mongolia, capture Urga, defeat the Chinese army and +here in the west they give us no news of it. We are without action here +while the Chinese kill our people and steal from them. I think that +Bogdo Khan might send us envoys. How is it the Chinese can send their +envoys from Urga and Kiakhta to Kobdo, asking for assistance, and the +Mongol Government cannot do it? Why?" + +"Will the Chinese send help to Urga?" I asked. + +Our guest laughed hoarsely and said: "I caught all the envoys, took away +their letters and then sent them back . . . into the ground." + +He laughed again and glanced around peculiarly with his blazing eyes. +Only then did I notice that his cheekbones and eyes had lines strange to +the Mongols of Central Asia. He looked more like a Tartar or a Kirghiz. +We were silent and smoked our pipes. + +"How soon will the detachment of Chahars leave Uliassutai?" he asked. + +We answered that we had not heard about them. Our guest explained +that from Inner Mongolia the Chinese authorities had sent out a strong +detachment, mobilized from among the most warlike tribe of Chahars, +which wander about the region just outside the Great Wall. Its chief was +a notorious hunghutze leader promoted by the Chinese Government to the +rank of captain on promising that he would bring under subjugation to +the Chinese authorities all the tribes of the districts of Kobdo and +Urianhai. When he learned whither we were going and for what purpose, +he said he could give us the most accurate news and relieve us from the +necessity of going farther. + +"Besides that, it is very dangerous," he said, "because Kobdo will be +massacred and burned. I know this positively." + +When he heard of our unsuccessful attempt to pass through Tibet, he +became attentive and very sympathetic in his bearing toward us and, with +evident feeling of regret, expressed himself strongly: + +"Only I could have helped you in this enterprise, but not the Narabanchi +Hutuktu. With my laissez-passer you could have gone anywhere in Tibet. I +am Tushegoun Lama." + +Tushegoun Lama! How many extraordinary tales I had heard about him. +He is a Russian Kalmuck, who because of his propaganda work for the +independence of the Kalmuck people made the acquaintance of many Russian +prisons under the Czar and, for the same cause, added to his list under +the Bolsheviki. He escaped to Mongolia and at once attained to great +influence among the Mongols. It was no wonder, for he was a close friend +and pupil of the Dalai Lama in Potala (Lhasa), was the most learned +among the Lamites, a famous thaumaturgist and doctor. He occupied an +almost independent position in his relationship with the Living Buddha +and achieved to the leadership of all the old wandering tribes of +Western Mongolia and Zungaria, even extending his political domination +over the Mongolian tribes of Turkestan. His influence was irresistible, +based as it was on his great control of mysterious science, as he +expressed it; but I was also told that it has its foundation largely +in the panicky fear which he could produce in the Mongols. Everyone who +disobeyed his orders perished. Such an one never knew the day or the +hour when, in his yurta or beside his galloping horse on the plains, the +strange and powerful friend of the Dalai Lama would appear. The stroke +of a knife, a bullet or strong fingers strangling the neck like a vise +accomplished the justice of the plans of this miracle worker. + +Without the walls of the yurta the wind whistled and roared and drove +the frozen snow sharply against the stretched felt. Through the roar of +the wind came the sound of many voices in mingled shouting, wailing +and laughter. I felt that in such surroundings it were not difficult to +dumbfound a wandering nomad with miracles, because Nature herself had +prepared the setting for it. This thought had scarcely time to flash +through my mind before Tushegoun Lama suddenly raised his head, looked +sharply at me and said: + +"There is very much unknown in Nature and the skill of using the unknown +produces the miracle; but the power is given to few. I want to prove it +to you and you may tell me afterwards whether you have seen it before or +not." + +He stood up, pushed back the sleeves of his yellow garment, seized his +knife and strode across to the shepherd. + +"Michik, stand up!" he ordered. + +When the shepherd had risen, the Lama quickly unbuttoned his coat +and bared the man's chest. I could not yet understand what was his +intention, when suddenly the Tushegoun with all his force struck his +knife into the chest of the shepherd. The Mongol fell all covered with +blood, a splash of which I noticed on the yellow silk of the Lama's +coat. + +"What have you done?" I exclaimed. + +"Sh! Be still," he whispered turning to me his now quite blanched face. + +With a few strokes of the knife he opened the chest of the Mongol and +I saw the man's lungs softly breathing and the distinct palpitations of +the heart. The Lama touched these organs with his fingers but no more +blood appeared to flow and the face of the shepherd was quite calm. +He was lying with his eyes closed and appeared to be in deep and quiet +sleep. As the Lama began to open his abdomen, I shut my eyes in fear and +horror; and, when I opened them a little while later, I was still more +dumbfounded at seeing the shepherd with his coat still open and his +breast normal, quietly sleeping on his side and Tushegoun Lama sitting +peacefully by the brazier, smoking his pipe and looking into the fire in +deep thought. + +"It is wonderful!" I confessed. "I have never seen anything like it!" + +"About what are you speaking?" asked the Kalmuck. + +"About your demonstration or 'miracle,' as you call it," I answered. + +"I never said anything like that," refuted the Kalmuck, with coldness in +his voice. + +"Did you see it?" I asked of my companion. + +"What?" he queried in a dozing voice. + +I realized that I had become the victim of the hypnotic power of +Tushegoun Lama; but I preferred this to seeing an innocent Mongolian +die, for I had not believed that Tushegoun Lama, after slashing open the +bodies of his victims, could repair them again so readily. + +The following day we took leave of our hosts. We decided to return, +inasmuch as our mission was accomplished; and Tushegoun Lama explained +to us that he would "move through space." He wandered over all Mongolia, +lived both in the single, simple yurta of the shepherd and hunter and in +the splendid tents of the princes and tribal chiefs, surrounded by deep +veneration and panic-fear, enticing and cementing to him rich and poor +alike with his miracles and prophecies. When bidding us adieu, the +Kalmuck sorcerer slyly smiled and said: + +"Do not give any information about me to the Chinese authorities." + +Afterwards he added: "What happened to you yesterday evening was +a futile demonstration. You Europeans will not recognize that we +dark-minded nomads possess the powers of mysterious science. If you +could only see the miracles and power of the Most Holy Tashi Lama, when +at his command the lamps and candles before the ancient statue of Buddha +light themselves and when the ikons of the gods begin to speak and +prophesy! But there exists a more powerful and more holy man. . ." + +"Is it the King of the World in Agharti?" I interrupted. + +He stared and glanced at me in amazement. + +"Have you heard about him?" he asked, as his brows knit in thought. + +After a few seconds he raised his narrow eyes and said: "Only one man +knows his holy name; only one man now living was ever in Agharti. That +is I. This is the reason why the Most Holy Dalai Lama has honored me and +why the Living Buddha in Urga fears me. But in vain, for I shall never +sit on the Holy Throne of the highest priest in Lhasa nor reach that +which has come down from Jenghiz Khan to the Head of our yellow Faith. I +am no monk. I am a warrior and avenger." + +He jumped smartly into the saddle, whipped his horse and whirled away, +flinging out as he left the common Mongolian phrase of adieu: "Sayn! +Sayn-bayna!" + +On the way back Tzeren related to us the hundreds of legends surrounding +Tushegoun Lama. One tale especially remained in my mind. It was in 1911 +or 1912 when the Mongols by armed force tried to attain their liberty in +a struggle with the Chinese. The general Chinese headquarters in Western +Mongolia was Kobdo, where they had about ten thousand soldiers under the +command of their best officers. The command to capture Kobdo was sent +to Hun Baldon, a simple shepherd who had distinguished himself in fights +with the Chinese and received from the Living Buddha the title of Prince +of Hun. Ferocious, absolutely without fear and possessing gigantic +strength, Baldon had several times led to the attack his poorly armed +Mongols but each time had been forced to retreat after losing many of +his men under the machine-gun fire. Unexpectedly Tushegoun Lama arrived. +He collected all the soldiers and then said to them: + +"You must not fear death and must not retreat. You are fighting and +dying for Mongolia, for which the gods have appointed a great destiny. +See what the fate of Mongolia will be!" + +He made a great sweeping gesture with his hand and all the soldiers saw +the country round about set with rich yurtas and pastures covered +with great herds of horses and cattle. On the plains appeared numerous +horsemen on richly saddled steeds. The women were gowned in the finest +of silk with massive silver rings in their ears and precious ornaments +in their elaborate head dresses. Chinese merchants led an endless +caravan of merchandise up to distinguished looking Mongol Saits, +surrounded by the gaily dressed tzirik or soldiers and proudly +negotiating with the merchants for their wares. + +Shortly the vision disappeared and Tushegoun began to speak. + +"Do not fear death! It is a release from our labor on earth and the path +to the state of constant blessings. Look to the East! Do you see your +brothers and friends who have fallen in battle?" + +"We see, we see!" the Mongol warriors exclaimed in astonishment, as they +all looked upon a great group of dwellings which might have been yurtas +or the arches of temples flushed with a warm and kindly light. Red and +yellow silk were interwoven in bright bands that covered the walls and +floor, everywhere the gilding on pillars and walls gleamed brightly; +on the great red altar burned the thin sacrificial candles in gold +candelabra, beside the massive silver vessels filled with milk and nuts; +on soft pillows about the floor sat the Mongols who had fallen in the +previous attack on Kobdo. Before them stood low, lacquered tables laden +with many dishes of steaming, succulent flesh of the lamb and the kid, +with high jugs of wine and tea, with plates of borsuk, a kind of sweet, +rich cakes, with aromatic zatouran covered with sheep's fat, with bricks +of dried cheese, with dates, raisins and nuts. These fallen soldiers +smoked golden pipes and chatted gaily. + +This vision in turn also disappeared and before the gazing Mongols stood +only the mysterious Kalmuck with his hand upraised. + +"To battle and return not without victory! I am with you in the fight." + +The attack began. The Mongols fought furiously, perished by the hundreds +but not before they had rushed into the heart of Kobdo. Then was +re-enacted the long forgotten picture of Tartar hordes destroying +European towns. Hun Baldon ordered carried over him a triangle of lances +with brilliant red streamers, a sign that he gave up the town to the +soldiers for three days. Murder and pillage began. All the Chinese met +their death there. The town was burned and the walls of the fortress +destroyed. Afterwards Hun Baldon came to Uliassutai and also destroyed +the Chinese fortress there. The ruins of it still stand with the broken +embattlements and towers, the useless gates and the remnants of the +burned official quarters and soldiers' barracks. + + +CHAPTER XIX + +WILD CHAHARS + + +After our return to Uliassutai we heard that disquieting news had been +received by the Mongol Sait from Muren Kure. The letter stated that Red +Troops were pressing Colonel Kazagrandi very hard in the region of Lake +Kosogol. The Sait feared the advance of the Red troops southward to +Uliassutai. Both the American firms liquidated their affairs and all +our friends were prepared for a quick exit, though they hesitated at +the thought of leaving the town, as they were afraid of meeting the +detachment of Chahars sent from the east. We decided to await the +arrival of this detachment, as their coming could change the whole +course of events. In a few days they came, two hundred warlike Chahar +brigands under the command of a former Chinese hunghutze. He was a tall, +skinny man with hands that reached almost to his knees, a face blackened +by wind and sun and mutilated with two long scars down over his forehead +and cheek, the making of one of which had also closed one of his +hawklike eyes, topped off with a shaggy coonskin cap--such was the +commander of the detachment of Chahars. A personage very dark and stern, +with whom a night meeting on a lonely street could not be considered a +pleasure by any bent of the imagination. + +The detachment made camp within the destroyed fortress, near to the +single Chinese building that had not been razed and which was now +serving as headquarters for the Chinese Commissioner. On the very day of +their arrival the Chahars pillaged a Chinese dugun or trading house not +half a mile from the fortress and also offended the wife of the Chinese +Commissioner by calling her a "traitor." The Chahars, like the Mongols, +were quite right in their stand, because the Chinese Commissioner Wang +Tsao-tsun had on his arrival in Uliassutai followed the Chinese custom +of demanding a Mongolian wife. The servile new Sait had given orders +that a beautiful and suitable Mongolian girl be found for him. One was +so run down and placed in his yamen, together with her big wrestling +Mongol brother who was to be a guard for the Commissioner but who +developed into the nurse for the little white Pekingese pug which the +official presented to his new wife. + +Burglaries, squabbles and drunken orgies of the Chahars followed, so +that Wang Tsoa-tsun exerted all his efforts to hurry the detachment +westward to Kobdo and farther into Urianhai. + +One cold morning the inhabitants of Uliassutai rose to witness a very +stern picture. Along the main street of the town the detachment was +passing. They were riding on small, shaggy ponies, three abreast; were +dressed in warm blue coats with sheepskin overcoats outside and crowned +with the regulation coonskin caps; armed from head to foot. They rode +with wild shouts and cheers, very greedily eyeing the Chinese shops and +the houses of the Russian colonists. At their head rode the one-eyed +hunghutze chief with three horsemen behind him in white overcoats, +who carried waving banners and blew what may have been meant for music +through great conch shells. One of the Chahars could not resist and so +jumped out of his saddle and made for a Chinese shop along the street. +Immediately the anxious cries of the Chinese merchants came from the +shop. The hunghutze swung round, noticed the horse at the door of the +shop and realized what was happening. Immediately he reined his horse +and made for the spot. With his raucous voice he called the Chahar out. +As he came, he struck him full in the face with his whip and with all +his strength. Blood flowed from the slashed cheek. But the Chahar was in +the saddle in a second without a murmur and galloped to his place in +the file. During this exit of the Chahars all the people were hidden +in their houses, anxiously peeping through cracks and corners of the +windows. But the Chahars passed peacefully out and only when they met a +caravan carrying Chinese wine about six miles from town did their +native tendency display itself again in pillaging and emptying several +containers. Somewhere in the vicinity of Hargana they were ambushed by +Tushegoun Lama and so treated that never again will the plains of Chahar +welcome the return of these warrior sons who were sent out to conquer +the Soyot descendants of the ancient Tuba. + +The day the column left Uliassutai a heavy snow fell, so that the road +became impassable. The horses first were up to their knees, tired out +and stopped. Some Mongol horsemen reached Uliassutai the following day +after great hardship and exertion, having made only twenty-five miles in +forty-eight hours. Caravans were compelled to stop along the routes. The +Mongols would not consent even to attempt journeys with oxen and yaks +which made but ten or twelve miles a day. Only camels could be used but +there were too few and their drivers did not feel that they could make +the first railway station of Kuku-Hoto, which was about fourteen hundred +miles away. We were forced again to wait: for which? Death or salvation? +Only our own energy and force could save us. Consequently my friend +and I started out, supplied with a tent, stove and food, for a new +reconnaissance along the shore of Lake Kosogol, whence the Mongol Sait +expected the new invasion of Red troops. + + +CHAPTER XX + +THE DEMON OF JAGISSTAI + + +Our small group consisting of four mounted and one pack camel moved +northward along the valley of the River Boyagol in the direction of the +Tarbagatai Mountains. The road was rocky and covered deep with snow. Our +camels walked very carefully, sniffing out the way as our guide shouted +the "Ok! Ok!" of the camel drivers to urge them on. We left behind us +the fortress and Chinese dugun, swung round the shoulder of a ridge +and, after fording several times an open stream, began the ascent of the +mountain. The scramble was hard and dangerous. Our camels picked their +way most cautiously, moving their ears constantly, as is their habit in +such stress. The trail zigzagged into mountain ravines, passed over the +tops of ridges, slipped back down again into shallower valleys but ever +made higher and higher altitudes. At one place under the grey clouds +that tipped the ridges we saw away up on the wide expanse of snow some +black spots. + +"Those are the obo, the sacred signs and altars for the bad demons +watching this pass," explained the guide. "This pass is called +Jagisstai. Many very old tales about it have been kept alive, ancient as +these mountains themselves." + +We encouraged him to tell us some of them. + +The Mongol, rocking on his camel and looking carefully all around him, +began his tale. + +"It was long ago, very long ago. . . . The grandson of the great Jenghiz +Khan sat on the throne of China and ruled all Asia. The Chinese killed +their Khan and wanted to exterminate all his family but a holy old Lama +slipped the wife and little son out of the palace and carried them off +on swift camels beyond the Great Wall, where they sank into our native +plains. The Chinese made a long search for the trails of our refugees +and at last found where they had gone. They despatched a strong +detachment on fleet horses to capture them. Sometimes the Chinese nearly +came up with the fleeing heir of our Khan but the Lama called down from +Heaven a deep snow, through which the camels could pass while the horses +were inextricably held. This Lama was from a distant monastery. We shall +pass this hospice of Jahantsi Kure. In order to reach it one must cross +over the Jagisstai. And it was just here the old Lama suddenly became +ill, rocked in his saddle and fell dead. Ta Sin Lo, the widow of the +Great Khan, burst into tears; but, seeing the Chinese riders galloping +there below across the valley, pressed on toward the pass. The camels +were tired, stopping every moment, nor did the woman know how to +stimulate and drive them on. The Chinese riders came nearer and nearer. +Already she heard their shouts of joy, as they felt within their grasp +the prize of the mandarins for the murder of the heir of the Great +Khan. The heads of the mother and the son would be brought to Peking and +exposed on the Ch'ien Men for the mockery and insults of the people. The +frightened mother lifted her little son toward heaven and exclaimed: + +"'Earth and Gods of Mongolia, behold the offspring of the man who has +glorified the name of the Mongols from one end of the world to the +other! Allow not this very flesh of Jenghiz Khan to perish!' + +"At this moment she noticed a white mouse sitting on a rock nearby. It +jumped to her knees and said: + +"'I am sent to help you. Go on calmly and do not fear. The pursuers of +you and your son, to whom is destined a life of glory, have come to the +last bourne of their lives.' + +"Ta Sin Lo did not see how one small mouse could hold in check three +hundred men. The mouse jumped back to the ground and again spoke: + +"'I am the demon of Tarbagatai, Jagasstai. I am mighty and beloved of +the Gods but, because you doubted the powers of the miracle-speaking +mouse, from this day the Jagasstai will be dangerous for the good and +bad alike.' + +"The Khan's widow and son were saved but Jagasstai has ever remained +merciless. During the journey over this pass one must always be on one's +guard. The demon of the mountain is ever ready to lead the traveler to +destruction." + +All the tops of the ridges of the Tarbagatai are thickly dotted with the +obo of rocks and branches. In one place there was even erected a tower +of stones as an altar to propitiate the Gods for the doubts of Ta Sin +Lo. Evidently the demon expected us. When we began our ascent of the +main ridge, he blew into our faces with a sharp, cold wind, whistled and +roared and afterwards began casting over us whole blocks of snow torn +off the drifts above. We could not distinguish anything around us, +scarcely seeing the camel immediately in front. Suddenly I felt a +shock and looked about me. Nothing unusual was visible. I was seated +comfortably between two leather saddle bags filled with meat and bread +but . . . I could not see the head of my camel. He had disappeared. It +seemed that he had slipped and fallen to the bottom of a shallow ravine, +while the bags which were slung across his back without straps had +caught on a rock and stopped with myself there in the snow. This time +the demon of Jagasstai only played a joke but one that did not satisfy +him. He began to show more and more anger. With furious gusts of wind he +almost dragged us and our bags from the camels and nearly knocked over +our humped steeds, blinded us with frozen snow and prevented us from +breathing. Through long hours we dragged slowly on in the deep snow, +often falling over the edge of the rocks. At last we entered a small +valley where the wind whistled and roared with a thousand voices. It +had grown dark. The Mongol wandered around searching for the trail and +finally came back to us, flourishing his arms and saying: + +"We have lost the road. We must spend the night here. It is very bad +because we shall have no wood for our stove and the cold will grow +worse." + +With great difficulties and with frozen hands we managed to set up our +tent in the wind, placing in it the now useless stove. We covered the +tent with snow, dug deep, long ditches in the drifts and forced our +camels to lie down in them by shouting the "Dzuk! Dzuk!" command to +kneel. Then we brought our packs into the tent. + +My companion rebelled against the thought of spending a cold night with +a stove hard by. + +"I am going out to look for firewood," said he very decisively; and at +that took up the ax and started. He returned after an hour with a big +section of a telegraph pole. + +"You, Jenghiz Khans," said he, rubbing his frozen hands, "take your +axes and go up there to the left on the mountain and you will find the +telegraph poles that have been cut down. I made acquaintance with the +old Jagasstai and he showed me the poles." + +Just a little way from us the line of the Russian telegraphs passed, +that which had connected Irkutsk with Uliassutai before the days of the +Bolsheviki and which the Chinese had commanded the Mongols to cut +down and take the wire. These poles are now the salvation of travelers +crossing the pass. Thus we spent the night in a warm tent, supped +well from hot meat soup with vermicelli, all in the very center of the +dominion of the angered Jagasstai. Early the next morning we found +the road not more than two or three hundred paces from our tent and +continued our hard trip over the ridge of Tarbagatai. At the head of +the Adair River valley we noticed a flock of the Mongolian crows with +carmine beaks circling among the rocks. We approached the place and +discovered the recently fallen bodies of a horse and rider. What had +happened to them was difficult to guess. They lay close together; the +bridle was wound around the right wrist of the man; no trace of knife or +bullet was found. It was impossible to make out the features of the man. +His overcoat was Mongolian but his trousers and under jacket were not of +the Mongolian pattern. We asked ourselves what had happened to him. + +Our Mongol bowed his head in anxiety and said in hushed but assured +tones: "It is the vengeance of Jagasstai. The rider did not make +sacrifice at the southern obo and the demon has strangled him and his +horse." + +At last Tarbagatai was behind us. Before us lay the valley of the Adair. +It was a narrow zigzagging plain following along the river bed between +close mountain ranges and covered with a rich grass. It was cut into two +parts by the road along which the prostrate telegraph poles now lay, as +the stumps of varying heights and long stretches of wire completed +the debris. This destruction of the telegraph line between Irkutsk and +Uliassutai was necessary and incident to the aggressive Chinese policy +in Mongolia. + +Soon we began to meet large herds of sheep, which were digging through +the snow to the dry but very nutritious grass. In some places yaks and +oxen were seen on the high slopes of the mountains. Only once, however, +did we see a shepherd, for all of them, spying us first, had made off +to the mountains or hidden in the ravines. We did not even discover any +yurtas along the way. The Mongols had also concealed all their movable +homes in the folds of the mountains out of sight and away from the reach +of the strong winds. Nomads are very skilful in choosing the places +for their winter dwellings. I had often in winter visited the Mongolian +yurtas set in such sheltered places that, as I came off the windy +plains, I felt as though I were in a conservatory. Once we came up to +a big herd of sheep. But as we approached most of the herd gradually +withdrew, leaving one part that remained unmoved as the other worked +off across the plains. From this section soon about thirty of forty head +emerged and went scrambling and leaping right up the mountain side. I +took up my glasses and began to observe them. The part of the herd that +remained behind were common sheep; the large section that had drawn off +over the plain were Mongolian antelopes (gazella gutturosa); while +the few that had taken to the mountain were the big horned sheep (ovis +argali). All this company had been grazing together with the domestic +sheep on the plains of the Adair, which attracted them with its good +grass and clear water. In many places the river was not frozen and in +some places I saw great clouds of steam over the surface of the open +water. In the meantime some of the antelopes and the mountain sheep +began looking at us. + +"Now they will soon begin to cross our trail," laughed the Mongol; "very +funny beasts. Sometimes the antelopes course for miles in their endeavor +to outrun and cross in front of our horses and then, when they have done +so, go loping quietly off." + +I had already seen this strategy of the antelopes and I decided to make +use of it for the purpose of the hunt. We organized our chase in the +following manner. We let one Mongol with the pack camel proceed as +we had been traveling and the other three of us spread out like a fan +headed toward the herd on the right of our true course. The herd stopped +and looked about puzzled, for their etiquette required that they should +cross the path of all four of these riders at once. Confusion began. +They counted about three thousand heads. All this army began to run +from one side to another but without forming any distinct groups. Whole +squadrons of them ran before us and then, noticing another rider, came +coursing back and made anew the same manoeuvre. One group of about fifty +head rushed in two rows toward my point. When they were about a hundred +and fifty paces away I shouted and fired. They stopped at once and began +to whirl round in one spot, running into one another and even jumping +over one another. Their panic cost them dear, for I had time to shoot +four times to bring down two beautiful heads. My friend was even more +fortunate than I, for he shot only once into the herd as it rushed past +him in parallel lines and dropped two with the same bullet. + +Meanwhile the argali had gone farther up the mountainside and taken +stand there in a row like so many soldiers, turning to gaze at us. Even +at this distance I could clearly distinguish their muscular bodies +with their majestic heads and stalwart horns. Picking up our prey, we +overtook the Mongol who had gone on ahead and continued our way. In many +places we came across the carcasses of sheep with necks torn and the +flesh of the sides eaten off. + +"It is the work of wolves," said the Mongol. "They are always hereabout +in large numbers." + +We came across several more herds of antelope, which ran along quietly +enough until they had made a comfortable distance ahead of us and then +with tremendous leaps and bounds crossed our bows like the proverbial +chicken on the road. Then, after a couple of hundred paces at this +speed, they stopped and began to graze quite calmly. Once I turned my +camel back and the whole herd immediately took up the challenge again, +coursed along parallel with me until they had made sufficient distance +for their ideas of safety and then once more rushed across the road +ahead of me as though it were paved with red hot stones, only to assume +their previous calmness and graze back on the same side of the trail +from which our column had first started them. On another occasion I did +this three times with a particular herd and laughed long and heartily at +their stupid customs. + +We passed a very unpleasant night in this valley. We stopped on the +shore of the frozen stream in a spot where we found shelter from the +wind under the lee of a high shore. In our stove we did have a fire and +in our kettle boiling water. Also our tent was warm and cozy. We were +quietly resting with pleasant thoughts of supper to soothe us, when +suddenly a howling and laughter as though from some inferno burst upon +us from just outside the tent, while from the other side of the valley +came the long and doleful howls in answer. + +"Wolves," calmly explained the Mongol, who took my revolver and went out +of the tent. He did not return for some time but at last we heard a shot +and shortly after he entered. + +"I scared them a little," said he. "They had congregated on the shore of +the Adair around the body of a camel." + +"And they have not touched our camels?" we asked. + +"We shall make a bonfire behind our tent; then they will not bother us." + +After our supper we turned in but I lay awake for a long time listening +to the crackle of the wood in the fire, the deep sighing breaths of the +camels and the distant howling of the packs of wolves; but finally, even +with all these noises, fell asleep. How long I had been asleep I did not +know when suddenly I was awakened by a strong blow in the side. I was +lying at the very edge of the tent and someone from outside had, without +the least ceremony, pushed strongly against me. I thought it was one of +the camels chewing the felt of the tent. I took my Mauser and struck the +wall. A sharp scream was followed by the sound of quick running over the +pebbles. In the morning we discovered the tracks of wolves approaching +our tent from the side opposite to the fire and followed them to where +they had begun to dig under the tent wall; but evidently one of the +would-be robbers was forced to retreat with a bruise on his head from +the handle of the Mauser. + +Wolves and eagles are the servants of Jagasstai, the Mongol very +seriously instructed us. However, this does not prevent the Mongols from +hunting them. Once in the camp of Prince Baysei I witnessed such a hunt. +The Mongol horsemen on the best of his steeds overtook the wolves on the +open plain and killed them with heavy bamboo sticks or tashur. A Russian +veterinary surgeon taught the Mongols to poison wolves with strychnine +but the Mongols soon abandoned this method because of its danger to +the dogs, the faithful friends and allies of the nomad. They do not, +however, touch the eagles and hawks but even feed them. When the Mongols +are slaughtering animals they often cast bits of meat up into the air +for the hawks and eagles to catch in flight, just as we throw a bit of +meat to a dog. Eagles and hawks fight and drive away the magpies and +crows, which are very dangerous for cattle and horses, because they +scratch and peck at the smallest wound or abrasion on the backs of the +animals until they make them into uncurable areas which they continue to +harass. + + +CHAPTER XXI + +THE NEST OF DEATH + + +Our camels were trudging to a slow but steady measure on toward the +north. We were making twenty-five to thirty miles a day as we approached +a small monastery that lay to the left of our route. It was in the +form of a square of large buildings surrounded by a high fence of +thick poles. Each side had an opening in the middle leading to the four +entrances of the temple in the center of the square. The temple was +built with the red lacquered columns and the Chinese style roofs and +dominated the surrounding low dwellings of the Lamas. On the opposite +side of the road lay what appeared to be a Chinese fortress but which +was in reality a trading compound or dugun, which the Chinese always +build in the form of a fortress with double walls a few feet apart, +within which they place their houses and shops and usually have twenty +or thirty traders fully armed for any emergency. In case of need these +duguns can be used as blockhouses and are capable of withstanding long +sieges. Between the dugun and the monastery and nearer to the road I +made out the camp of some nomads. Their horses and cattle were nowhere +to be seen. Evidently the Mongols had stopped here for some time and +had left their cattle in the mountains. Over several yurtas waved +multi-colored triangular flags, a sign of the presence of disease. Near +some yurtas high poles were stuck into the ground with Mongol caps at +their tops, which indicated that the host of the yurta had died. The +packs of dogs wandering over the plain showed that the dead bodies lay +somewhere near, either in the ravines or along the banks of the river. + +As we approached the camp, we heard from a distance the frantic beating +of drums, the mournful sounds of the flute and shrill, mad shouting. +Our Mongol went forward to investigate for us and reported that several +Mongolian families had come here to the monastery to seek aid from the +Hutuktu Jahansti who was famed for his miracles of healing. The people +were stricken with leprosy and black smallpox and had come from long +distances only to find that the Hutuktu was not at the monastery but had +gone to the Living Buddha in Urga. Consequently they had been forced to +invite the witch doctors. The people were dying one after another. Just +the day before they had cast on the plain the twenty-seventh man. + +Meanwhile, as we talked, the witch doctor came out of one of the yurtas. +He was an old man with a cataract on one eye and with a face deeply +scarred by smallpox. He was dressed in tatters with various colored bits +of cloth hanging down from his waist. He carried a drum and a flute. We +could see froth on his blue lips and madness in his eyes. Suddenly he +began to whirl round and dance with a thousand prancings of his long +legs and writhings of his arms and shoulders, still beating the drum and +playing the flute or crying and raging at intervals, ever accelerating +his movements until at last with pallid face and bloodshot eyes he fell +on the snow, where he continued to writhe and give out his incoherent +cries. In this manner the doctor treated his patients, frightening with +his madness the bad devils that carry disease. Another witch doctor gave +his patients dirty, muddy water, which I learned was the water from the +bath of the very person of the Living Buddha who had washed in it his +"divine" body born from the sacred flower of the lotus. + +"Om! Om!" both witches continuously screamed. + +While the doctors fought with the devils, the ill people were left to +themselves. They lay in high fever under the heaps of sheepskins and +overcoats, were delirious, raved and threw themselves about. By the +braziers squatted adults and children who were still well, indifferently +chatting, drinking tea and smoking. In all the yurtas I saw the +diseased and the dead and such misery and physical horrors as cannot be +described. + +And I thought: "Oh, Great Jenghiz Khan! Why did you with your keen +understanding of the whole situation of Asia and Europe, you who devoted +all your life to the glory of the name of the Mongols, why did you not +give to your own people, who preserve their old morality, honesty and +peaceful customs, the enlightenment that would have saved them from such +death? Your bones in the mausoleum at Karakorum being destroyed by +the centuries that pass over them must cry out against the rapid +disappearance of your formerly great people, who were feared by half the +civilized world!" + +Such thoughts filled my brain when I saw this camp of the dead tomorrow +and when I heard the groans, shoutings and raving of dying men, +women and children. Somewhere in the distance the dogs were howling +mournfully, and monotonously the drum of the tired witch rolled. + +"Forward!" I could not witness longer this dark horror, which I had +no means or force to eradicate. We quickly passed on from the ominous +place. Nor could we shake the thought that some horrible invisible +spirit was following us from this scene of terror. "The devils of +disease?" "The pictures of horror and misery?" "The souls of men +who have been sacrificed on the altar of darkness of Mongolia?" An +inexplicable fear penetrated into our consciousness from whose grasp +we could not release ourselves. Only when we had turned from the road, +passed over a timbered ridge into a bowl in the mountains from which we +could see neither Jahantsi Kure, the dugun nor the squirming grave of +dying Mongols could we breathe freely again. + +Presently we discovered a large lake. It was Tisingol. Near the shore +stood a large Russian house, the telegraph station between Kosogol and +Uliassutai. + + +CHAPTER XXII + +AMONG THE MURDERERS + + +As we approached the telegraph station, we were met by a blonde young +man who was in charge of the office, Kanine by name. With some little +confusion he offered us a place in his house for the night. When we +entered the room, a tall, lanky man rose from the table and indecisively +walked toward us, looking very attentively at us the while. + +"Guests . . ." explained Kanine. "They are going to Khathyl. Private +persons, strangers, foreigners . . ." + +"A-h," drawled the stranger in a quiet, comprehending tone. + +While we were untying our girdles and with difficulty getting out of our +great Mongolian coats, the tall man was animatedly whispering something +to our host. As we approached the table to sit down and rest, I +overheard him say: "We are forced to postpone it," and saw Kanine simply +nod in answer. + +Several other people were seated at the table, among them the assistant +of Kanine, a tall blonde man with a white face, who talked like a +Gatling gun about everything imaginable. He was half crazy and his +semi-madness expressed itself when any loud talking, shouting or sudden +sharp report led him to repeat the words of the one to whom he was +talking at the time or to relate in a mechanical, hurried manner stories +of what was happening around him just at this particular juncture. The +wife of Kanine, a pale, young, exhausted-looking woman with frightened +eyes and a face distorted by fear, was also there and near her a young +girl of fifteen with cropped hair and dressed like a man, as well as +the two small sons of Kanine. We made acquaintance with all of them. +The tall stranger called himself Gorokoff, a Russian colonist from +Samgaltai, and presented the short-haired girl as his sister. Kanine's +wife looked at us with plainly discernible fear and said nothing, +evidently displeased over our being there. However, we had no choice and +consequently began drinking tea and eating our bread and cold meat. + +Kanine told us that ever since the telegraph line had been destroyed all +his family and relatives had felt very keenly the poverty and hardship +that naturally followed. The Bolsheviki did not send him any salary from +Irkutsk, so that he was compelled to shift for himself as best he +could. They cut and cured hay for sale to the Russian colonists, +handled private messages and merchandise from Khathyl to Uliassutai and +Samgaltai, bought and sold cattle, hunted and in this manner managed to +exist. Gorokoff announced that his commercial affairs compelled him +to go to Khathyl and that he and his sister would be glad to join +our caravan. He had a most unprepossessing, angry-looking face with +colorless eyes that always avoided those of the person with whom he was +speaking. During the conversation we asked Kanine if there were Russian +colonists near by, to which he answered with knitted brow and a look of +disgust on his face: + +"There is one rich old man, Bobroff, who lives a verst away from our +station; but I would not advise you to visit him. He is a miserly, +inhospitable old fellow who does not like guests." + +During these words of her husband Madame Kanine dropped her eyes and +contracted her shoulders in something resembling a shudder. Gorokoff and +his sister smoked along indifferently. I very clearly remarked all this +as well as the hostile tone of Kanine, the confusion of his wife and +the artificial indifference of Gorokoff; and I determined to see the +old colonist given such a bad name by Kanine. In Uliassutai I knew +two Bobroffs. I said to Kanine that I had been asked to hand a letter +personally to Bobroff and, after finishing my tea, put on my overcoat +and went out. + +The house of Bobroff stood in a deep sink in the mountains, surrounded +by a high fence over which the low roofs of the houses could be seen. A +light shone through the window. I knocked at the gate. A furious barking +of dogs answered me and through the cracks of the fence I made out four +huge black Mongol dogs, showing their teeth and growling as they rushed +toward the gate. Inside the court someone opened the door and called +out: "Who is there?" + +I answered that I was traveling through from Uliassutai. The dogs were +first caught and chained and I was then admitted by a man who looked me +over very carefully and inquiringly from head to foot. A revolver handle +stuck out of his pocket. Satisfied with his observations and learning +that I knew his relatives, he warmly welcomed me to the house and +presented me to his wife, a dignified old woman, and to his beautiful +little adopted daughter, a girl of five years. She had been found on +the plain beside the dead body of her mother exhausted in her attempt to +escape from the Bolsheviki in Siberia. + +Bobroff told me that the Russian detachment of Kazagrandi had succeeded +in driving the Red troops away from the Kosogol and that we could +consequently continue our trip to Khathyl without danger. + +"Why did you not stop with me instead of with those brigands?" asked the +old fellow. + +I began to question him and received some very important news. It +seemed that Kanine was a Bolshevik, the agent of the Irkutsk Soviet, and +stationed here for purposes of observation. However, now he was rendered +harmless, because the road between him and Irkutsk was interrupted. +Still from Biisk in the Altai country had just come a very important +commissar. + +"Gorokoff?" I asked. + +"That's what he calls himself," replied the old fellow; "but I am also +from Biisk and I know everyone there. His real name is Pouzikoff and the +short-haired girl with him is his mistress. He is the commissar of the +'Cheka' and she is the agent of this establishment. Last August the two +of them shot with their revolvers seventy bound officers from Kolchak's +army. Villainous, cowardly murderers! Now they have come here for a +reconnaissance. They wanted to stay in my house but I knew them too well +and refused them place." + +"And you do not fear him?" I asked, remembering the different words and +glances of these people as they sat at the table in the station. + +"No," answered the old man. "I know how to defend myself and my family +and I have a protector too--my son, such a shot, a rider and a fighter +as does not exist in all Mongolia. I am very sorry that you will not +make the acquaintance of my boy. He has gone off to the herds and will +return only tomorrow evening." + +We took most cordial leave of each other and I promised to stop with him +on my return. + +"Well, what yarns did Bobroff tell you about us?" was the question with +which Kanine and Gorokoff met me when I came back to the station. + +"Nothing about you," I answered, "because he did not even want to speak +with me when he found out that I was staying in your house. What is the +trouble between you?" I asked of them, expressing complete astonishment +on my face. + +"It is an old score," growled Gorokoff. + +"A malicious old churl," Kanine added in agreement, the while the +frightened, suffering-laden eyes of his wife again gave expression +to terrifying horror, as if she momentarily expected a deadly blow. +Gorokoff began to pack his luggage in preparation for the journey with +us the following morning. We prepared our simple beds in an adjoining +room and went to sleep. I whispered to my friend to keep his revolver +handy for anything that might happen but he only smiled as he dragged +his revolver and his ax from his coat to place them under his pillow. + +"This people at the outset seemed to me very suspicious," he whispered. +"They are cooking up something crooked. Tomorrow I shall ride behind +this Gorokoff and shall prepare for him a very faithful one of my +bullets, a little dum-dum." + +The Mongols spent the night under their tent in the open court beside +their camels, because they wanted to be near to feed them. About seven +o'clock we started. My friend took up his post as rear guard to our +caravan, keeping all the time behind Gorokoff, who with his sister, both +armed from tip to toe, rode splendid mounts. + +"How have you kept your horses in such fine condition coming all the way +from Samgaltai?" I inquired as I looked over their fine beasts. + +When he answered that these belonged to his host, I realized that Kanine +was not so poor as he made out; for any rich Mongol would have given him +in exchange for one of these lovely animals enough sheep to have kept +his household in mutton for a whole year. + +Soon we came to a large swamp surrounded by dense brush, where I was +much astonished by seeing literally hundreds of white kuropatka or +partridges. Out of the water rose a flock of duck with a mad rush as +we hove in sight. Winter, cold driving wind, snow and wild ducks! The +Mongol explained it to me thus: + +"This swamp always remains warm and never freezes. The wild ducks live +here the year round and the kuropatka too, finding fresh food in the +soft warm earth." + +As I was speaking with the Mongol I noticed over the swamp a tongue of +reddish-yellow flame. It flashed and disappeared at once but later, on +the farther edge, two further tongues ran upward. I realized that here +was the real will-o'-the-wisp surrounded by so many thousands of legends +and explained so simply by chemistry as merely a flash of methane or +swamp gas generated by the putrefying of vegetable matter in the warm +damp earth. + +"Here dwell the demons of Adair, who are in perpetual war with those of +Muren," explained the Mongol. + +"Indeed," I thought, "if in prosaic Europe in our days the inhabitants +of our villages believe these flames to be some wild sorcery, then +surely in the land of mystery they must be at least the evidences of war +between the demons of two neighboring rivers!" + +After passing this swamp we made out far ahead of us a large monastery. +Though this was some half mile off the road, the Gorokoffs said they +would ride over to it to make some purchases in the Chinese shops there. +They quickly rode away, promising to overtake us shortly, but we did not +see them again for a while. They slipped away without leaving any trail +but we met them later in very unexpected circumstances of fatal portent +for them. On our part we were highly satisfied that we were rid of +them so soon and, after they were gone, I imparted to my friend the +information gleaned from Bobroff the evening before. + + +CHAPTER XXIII + +ON A VOLCANO + + +The following evening we arrived at Khathyl, a small Russian settlement +of ten scattered houses in the valley of the Egingol or Yaga, which here +takes its waters from the Kosogol half a mile above the village. The +Kosogol is a huge Alpine lake, deep and cold, eighty-five miles in +length and from ten to thirty in width. On the western shore live the +Darkhat Soyots, who call it Hubsugul, the Mongols, Kosogol. Both the +Soyots and Mongols consider this a terrible and sacred lake. It is very +easy to understand this prejudice because the lake lies in a region of +present volcanic activity, where in the summer on perfectly calm sunny +days it sometimes lashes itself into great waves that are dangerous not +only to the native fishing boats but also to the large Russian passenger +steamers that ply on the lake. In winter also it sometimes entirely +breaks up its covering of ice and gives off great clouds of steam. +Evidently the bottom of the lake is sporadically pierced by discharging +hot springs or, perhaps, by streams of lava. Evidence of some great +underground convulsion like this is afforded by the mass of killed fish +which at times dams the outlet river in its shallow places. The lake is +exceedingly rich in fish, chiefly varieties of trout and salmon, and +is famous for its wonderful "white fish," which was previously sent all +over Siberia and even down into Manchuria so far as Moukden. It is fat +and remarkably tender and produces fine caviar. Another variety in +the lake is the white khayrus or trout, which in the migration season, +contrary to the customs of most fish, goes down stream into the Yaga, +where it sometimes fills the river from bank to bank with swarms of +backs breaking the surface of the water. However, this fish is not +caught, because it is infested with worms and is unfit for food. Even +cats and dogs will not touch it. This is a very interesting phemonenon +and was being investigated and studied by Professor Dorogostaisky of the +University at Irkutsk when the coming of the Bolsheviki interrupted his +work. + +In Khathyl we found a panic. The Russian detachment of Colonel +Kazagrandi, after having twice defeated the Bolsheviki and well on its +march against Irkutsk, was suddenly rendered impotent and scattered +through internal strife among the officers. The Bolsheviki took +advantage of this situation, increased their forces to one thousand men +and began a forward movement to recover what they had lost, while the +remnants of Colonel Kazagrandi's detachment were retreating on Khathyl, +where he determined to make his last stand against the Reds. The +inhabitants were loading their movable property with their families into +carts and scurrying away from the town, leaving all their cattle and +horses to whomsoever should have the power to seize and hold them. +One party intended to hide in the dense larch forest and the mountain +ravines not far away, while another party made southward for Muren Kure +and Uliassutai. The morning following our arrival the Mongol official +received word that the Red troops had outflanked Colonel Kazagrandi's +men and were approaching Khathyl. The Mongol loaded his documents and +his servants on eleven camels and left his yamen. Our Mongol guides, +without ever saying a word to us, secretly slipped off with him and left +us without camels. Our situation thus became desperate. We hastened to +the colonists who had not yet got away to bargain with them for camels, +but they had previously, in anticipation of trouble, sent their herds +to distant Mongols and so could do nothing to help us. Then we betook +ourselves to Dr. V. G. Gay, a veterinarian living in the town, famous +throughout Mongolia for his battle against rinderpest. He lived here +with his family and after being forced to give up his government work +became a cattle dealer. He was a most interesting person, clever and +energetic, and the one who had been appointed under the Czarist regime +to purchase all the meat supplies from Mongolia for the Russian Army on +the German Front. He organized a huge enterprise in Mongolia but when +the Bolsheviki seized power in 1917 he transferred his allegiance and +began to work with them. Then in May, 1918, when the Kolchak forces +drove the Bolsheviki out of Siberia, he was arrested and taken for +trial. However, he was released because he was looked upon as the single +individual to organize this big Mongolian enterprise and he handed +to Admiral Kolchak all the supplies of meat and the silver formerly +received from the Soviet commissars. At this time Gay had been serving +as the chief organizer and supplier of the forces of Kazagrandi. + +When we went to him, he at once suggested that we take the only thing +left, some poor, broken-down horses which would be able to carry us the +sixty miles to Muren Kure, where we could secure camels to return to +Uliassutai. However, even these were being kept some distance from the +town so that we should have to spend the night there, the night in which +the Red troops were expected to arrive. Also we were much astonished to +see that Gay was remaining there with his family right up to the time of +the expected arrival of the Reds. The only others in the town were a few +Cossacks, who had been ordered to stay behind to watch the movements of +the Red troops. The night came. My friend and I were prepared either +to fight or, in the last event, to commit suicide. We stayed in a small +house near the Yaga, where some workmen were living who could not, and +did not feel it necessary to, leave. They went up on a hill from which +they could scan the whole country up to the range from behind which the +Red detachment must appear. From this vantage point in the forest one of +the workmen came running in and cried out: + +"Woe, woe to us! The Reds have arrived. A horseman is galloping fast +through the forest road. I called to him but he did not answer me. It +was dark but I knew the horse was a strange one." + +"Do not babble so," said another of the workmen. "Some Mongol rode by +and you jumped to the conclusion that he was a Red." + +"No, it was not a Mongol," he replied. "The horse was shod. I heard the +sound of iron shoes on the road. Woe to us!" + +"Well," said my friend, "it seems that this is our finish. It is a silly +way for it all to end." + +He was right. Just then there was a knock at our door but it was that +of the Mongol bringing us three horses for our escape. Immediately we +saddled them, packed the third beast with our tent and food and rode off +at once to take leave of Gay. + +In his house we found the whole war council. Two or three colonists and +several Cossacks had galloped from the mountains and announced that the +Red detachment was approaching Khathyl but would remain for the night +in the forest, where they were building campfires. In fact, through +the house windows we could see the glare of the fires. It seemed very +strange that the enemy should await the morning there in the forest when +they were right on the village they wished to capture. + +An armed Cossack entered the room and announced that two armed men from +the detachment were approaching. All the men in the room pricked up +their ears. Outside were heard the horses' hoofs followed by men's +voices and a knock at the door. + +"Come in," said Gay. + +Two young men entered, their moustaches and beards white and their +cheeks blazing red from the cold. They were dressed in the common +Siberian overcoat with the big Astrakhan caps, but they had no weapons. +Questions began. It developed that it was a detachment of White peasants +from the Irkutsk and Yakutsk districts who had been fighting with the +Bolsheviki. They had been defeated somewhere in the vicinity of Irkutsk +and were now trying to make a junction with Kazagrandi. The leader of +this band was a socialist, Captain Vassilieff, who had suffered much +under the Czar because of his tenets. + +Our troubles had vanished but we decided to start immediately to Muren +Kure, as we had gathered our information and were in a hurry to make +our report. We started. On the road we overtook three Cossacks who were +going out to bring back the colonists who were fleeing to the south. We +joined them and, dismounting, we all led our horses over the ice. The +Yaga was mad. The subterranean forces produced underneath the ice great +heaving waves which with a swirling roar threw up and tore loose great +sections of ice, breaking them into small blocks and sucking them under +the unbroken downstream field. Cracks ran like snakes over the surface +in different directions. One of the Cossacks fell into one of these +but we had just time to save him. He was forced by his ducking in such +extreme cold to turn back to Khathyl. Our horses slipped about and fell +several times. Men and animals felt the presence of death which hovered +over them and momentarily threatened them with destruction. At last we +made the farther bank and continued southward down the valley, glad to +have left the geological and figurative volcanoes behind us. Ten miles +farther on we came up with the first party of refugees. They had spread +a big tent and made a fire inside, filling it with warmth and smoke. +Their camp was made beside the establishment of a large Chinese trading +house, where the owners refused to let the colonists come into their +amply spacious buildings, even though there were children, women and +invalids among the refugees. We spent but half an hour here. The road +as we continued was easy, save in places where the snow lay deep. We +crossed the fairly high divide between the Egingol and Muren. Near the +pass one very unexpected event occurred to us. We crossed the mouth of +a fairly wide valley whose upper end was covered with a dense wood. Near +this wood we noticed two horsemen, evidently watching us. Their manner +of sitting in their saddles and the character of their horses told us +that they were not Mongols. We began shouting and waving to them; but +they did not answer. Out of the wood emerged a third and stopped to +look at us. We decided to interview them and, whipping up our horses, +galloped toward them. When we were about one thousand yards from them, +they slipped from their saddles and opened on us with a running fire. +Fortunately we rode a little apart and thus made a poor target for them. +We jumped off our horses, dropped prone on the ground and prepared to +fight. However, we did not fire because we thought it might be a mistake +on their part, thinking that we were Reds. They shortly made off. Their +shots from the European rifles had given us further proof that they were +not Mongols. We waited until they had disappeared into the woods and +then went forward to investigate their tracks, which we found were those +of shod horses, clearly corroborating the earlier evidence that they +were not Mongols. Who could they have been? We never found out; yet what +a different relationship they might have borne to our lives, had their +shots been true! + +After we had passed over the divide, we met the Russian colonist D. A. +Teternikoff from Muren Kure, who invited us to stay in his house and +promised to secure camels for us from the Lamas. The cold was intense +and heightened by a piercing wind. During the day we froze to the bone +but at night thawed and warmed up nicely by our tent stove. After two +days we entered the valley of Muren and from afar made out the square +of the Kure with its Chinese roofs and large red temples. Nearby was +a second square, the Chinese and Russian settlement. Two hours more +brought us to the house of our hospitable companion and his attractive +young wife who feasted us with a wonderful luncheon of tasty dishes. We +spent five days at Muren waiting for the camels to be engaged. During +this time many refugees arrived from Khathyl because Colonel Kazagrandi +was gradually falling back upon the town. Among others there were two +Colonels, Plavako and Maklakoff, who had caused the disruption of the +Kazagrandi force. No sooner had the refugees appeared in Muren Kure +than the Mongolian officials announced that the Chinese authorities had +ordered them to drive out all Russian refugees. + +"Where can we go now in winter with women and children and no homes of +our own?" asked the distraught refugees. + +"That is of no moment to us," answered the Mongolian officials. "The +Chinese authorities are angry and have ordered us to drive you away. We +cannot help you at all." + +The refugees had to leave Muren Kure and so erected their tents in the +open not far away. Plavako and Maklakoff bought horses and started out +for Van Kure. Long afterwards I learned that both had been killed by the +Chinese along the road. + +We secured three camels and started out with a large group of Chinese +merchants and Russian refugees to make Uliassutai, preserving +the warmest recollections of our courteous hosts, T. V. and D. A. +Teternikoff. For the trip we had to pay for our camels the very high +price of 33 lan of the silver bullion which had been supplied us by an +American firm in Uliassutai, the equivalent roughly of 2.7 pounds of the +white metal. + + +CHAPTER XXIV + +A BLOODY CHASTISEMENT + + +Before long we struck the road which we had travelled coming north and +saw again the kindly rows of chopped down telegraph poles which had once +so warmly protected us. Over the timbered hillocks north of the valley +of Tisingol we wended just as it was growing dark. We decided to stay +in Bobroff's house and our companions thought to seek the hospitality of +Kanine in the telegraph station. At the station gate we found a soldier +with a rifle, who questioned us as to who we were and whence we had come +and, being apparently satisfied, whistled out a young officer from the +house. + +"Lieutenant Ivanoff," he introduced himself. "I am staying here with my +detachment of White Partisans." + +He had come from near Irkutsk with his following of ten men and had +formed a connection with Lieutenant-Colonel Michailoff at Uliassutai, +who commanded him to take possession of this blockhouse. + +"Enter, please," he said hospitably. + +I explained to him that I wanted to stay with Bobroff, whereat he made a +despairing gesture with his hand and said: + +"Don't trouble yourself. The Bobroffs are killed and their house +burned." + +I could not keep back a cry of horror. + +The Lieutenant continued: "Kanine and the Pouzikoffs killed them, +pillaged the place and afterwards burned the house with their dead +bodies in it. Do you want to see it?" + +My friend and I went with the Lieutenant and looked over the ominous +site. Blackened uprights stood among charred beams and planks while +crockery and iron pots and pans were scattered all around. A little +to one side under some felt lay the remains of the four unfortunate +individuals. The Lieutenant first spoke: + +"I reported the case to Uliassutai and received word back that the +relatives of the deceased would come with two officers, who would +investigate the affair. That is why I cannot bury the bodies." + +"How did it happen?" we asked, oppressed by the sad picture. + +"It was like this," he began. "I was approaching Tisingol at night with +my ten soldiers. Fearing that there might be Reds here, we sneaked up +to the station and looked into the windows. We saw Pouzikoff, Kanine +and the short-haired girl, looking over and dividing clothes and +other things and weighing lumps of silver. I did not at once grasp the +significance of all this; but, feeling the need for continued caution, +ordered one of my soldiers to climb the fence and open the gate. We +rushed into the court. The first to run from the house was Kanine's +wife, who threw up her hands and shrieked in fear: 'I knew that +misfortune would come of all this!' and then fainted. One of the men ran +out of a side door to a shed in the yard and there tried to get over the +fence. I had not noticed him but one of my soldiers caught him. We were +met at the door by Kanine, who was white and trembling. I realized +that something important had taken place, placed them all under arrest, +ordered the men tied and placed a close guard. All my questions were +met with silence save by Madame Kanine who cried: 'Pity, pity for the +children! They are innocent!' as she dropped on her knees and stretched +out her hands in supplication to us. The short-haired girl laughed out +of impudent eyes and blew a puff of smoke into my face. I was forced to +threaten them and said: + +"'I know that you have committed some crime, but you do not want to +confess. If you do not, I shall shoot the men and take the women to +Uliassutai to try them there.' + +"I spoke with definiteness of voice and intention, for they roused my +deepest anger. Quite to my surprise the short-haired girl first began to +speak. + +"'I want to tell you about everything,' she said. + +"I ordered ink, paper and pen brought me. My soldiers were the +witnesses. Then I prepared the protocol of the confession of Pouzikoff's +wife. This was her dark and bloody tale. + +"'My husband and I are Bolshevik commissars and we have been sent to +find out how many White officers are hidden in Mongolia. But the old +fellow Bobroff knew us. We wanted to go away but Kanine kept us, telling +us that Bobroff was rich and that he had for a long time wanted to kill +him and pillage his place. We agreed to join him. We decoyed the young +Bobroff to come and play cards with us. When he was going home my +husband stole along behind and shot him. Afterwards we all went to +Bobroff's place. I climbed upon the fence and threw some poisoned meat +to the dogs, who were dead in a few minutes. Then we all climbed over. +The first person to emerge from the house was Bobroff's wife. Pouzikoff, +who was hidden behind the door, killed her with his ax. The old fellow +we killed with a blow of the ax as he slept. The little girl ran out +into the room as she heard the noise and Kanine shot her in the head +with buckshot. Afterwards we looted the house and burned it, even +destroying the horses and cattle. Later all would have been completely +burned, so that no traces remained, but you suddenly arrived and these +stupid fellows at once betrayed us.' + +"It was a dastardly affair," continued the Lieutenant, as we returned +to the station. "The hair raised on my head as I listened to the calm +description of this young woman, hardly more than a girl. Only then did +I fully realize what depravity Bolshevism had brought into the world, +crushing out faith, fear of God and conscience. Only then did I +understand that all honest people must fight without compromise against +this most dangerous enemy of mankind, so long as life and strength +endure." + +As we walked I noticed at the side of the road a black spot. It +attracted and fixed my attention. + +"What is that?" I asked, pointing to the spot. + +"It is the murderer Pouzikoff whom I shot," answered the Lieutenant. "I +would have shot both Kanine and the wife of Pouzikoff but I was sorry +for Kanine's wife and children and I haven't learned the lesson +of shooting women. Now I shall send them along with you under the +surveillance of my soldiers to Uliassutai. The same result will come, +for the Mongols who try them for the murder will surely kill them." + +This is what happened at Tisingol, on whose shores the will-o'-the-wisp +flits over the marshy pools and near which runs the cleavage of over two +hundred miles that the last earthquake left in the surface of the land. +Maybe it was out of this cleavage that Pouzikoff, Kanine and the others +who have sought to infect the whole world with horror and crime made +their appearance from the land of the inferno. One of Lieutenant +Ivanoff's soldiers, who was always praying and pale, called them all +"the servants of Satan." + +Our trip from Tisingol to Uliassutai in the company of these criminals +was very unpleasant. My friend and I entirely lost our usual strength +of spirit and healthy frame of mind. Kanine persistently brooded and +thought while the impudent woman laughed, smoked and joked with the +soldiers and several of our companions. At last we crossed the Jagisstai +and in a few hours descried at first the fortress and then the low adobe +houses huddled on the plain, which we knew to be Uliassutai. + + +CHAPTER XXV + +HARASSING DAYS + + +Once more we found ourselves in the whirl of events. During our +fortnight away a great deal had happened here. The Chinese Commissioner +Wang Tsao-tsun had sent eleven envoys to Urga but none had returned. The +situation in Mongolia remained far from clear. The Russian detachment +had been increased by the arrival of new colonists and secretly +continued its illegal existence, although the Chinese knew about it +through their omnipresent system of spies. In the town no Russian or +foreign citizens left their houses and all remained armed and ready to +act. At night armed sentinels stood guard in all their court-yards. +It was the Chinese who induced such precautions. By order of their +Commissioner all the Chinese merchants with stocks of rifles armed their +staffs and handed over any surplus guns to the officials, who with +these formed and equipped a force of two hundred coolies into a special +garrison of gamins. Then they took possession of the Mongolian arsenal +and distributed these additional guns among the Chinese vegetable +farmers in the nagan hushun, where there was always a floating +population of the lowest grade of transient Chinese laborers. This +trash of China now felt themselves strong, gathered together in +excited discussions and evidently were preparing for some outburst of +aggression. At night the coolies transported many boxes of cartridges +from the Chinese shops to the nagan hushun and the behaviour of the +Chinese mob became unbearably audacious. These coolies and gamins +impertinently stopped and searched people right on the streets and +sought to provoke fights that would allow them to take anything they +wanted. Through secret news we received from certain Chinese quarters +we learned that the Chinese were preparing a pogrom for all the Russians +and Mongols in Uliassutai. We fully realized that it was only necessary +to fire one single house at the right part of the town and the entire +settlement of wooden buildings would go up in flames. The whole +population prepared to defend themselves, increased the sentinels in the +compounds, appointed leaders for certain sections of the town, organized +a special fire brigade and prepared horses, carts and food for a hasty +flight. The situation became worse when news arrived from Kobdo that +the Chinese there had made a pogrom, killing some of the inhabitants and +burning the whole town after a wild looting orgy. Most of the people +got away to the forests on the mountains but it was at night and +consequently without warm clothes and without food. During the following +days these mountains around Kobdo heard many cries of misfortune, woe +and death. The severe cold and hunger killed off the women and children +out under the open sky of the Mongolian winter. This news was soon known +to the Chinese. They laughed in mockery and soon organized a big meeting +at the nagan hushun to discuss letting the mob and gamins loose on the +town. + +A young Chinese, the son of a cook of one of the colonists, revealed +this news. We immediately decided to make an investigation. A Russian +officer and my friend joined me with this young Chinese as a guide for +a trip to the outskirts of the town. We feigned simply a stroll but were +stopped by the Chinese sentinel on the side of the city toward the nagan +hushun with an impertinent command that no one was allowed to leave +the town. As we spoke with him, I noticed that between the town and the +nagan hushun Chinese guards were stationed all along the way and that +streams of Chinese were moving in that direction. We saw at once it was +impossible to reach the meeting from this approach, so we chose another +route. We left the city from the eastern side and passed along by the +camp of the Mongolians who had been reduced to beggary by the Chinese +impositions. There also they were evidently anxiously awaiting the turn +of events, for, in spite of the lateness of the hour, none had gone to +sleep. We slipped out on the ice and worked around by the river to the +nagan hushun. As we passed free of the city we began to sneak cautiously +along, taking advantage of every bit of cover. We were armed with +revolvers and hand grenades and knew that a small detachment had been +prepared in the town to come to our aid, if we should be in danger. +First the young Chinese stole forward with my friend following him like +a shadow, constantly reminding him that he would strangle him like a +mouse if he made one move to betray us. I fear the young guide did not +greatly enjoy the trip with my gigantic friend puffing all too loudly +with the unusual exertions. At last the fences of nagan hushun were in +sight and nothing between us and them save the open plain, where our +group would have been easily spotted; so that we decided to crawl up one +by one, save that the Chinese was retained in the society of my trusted +friend. Fortunately there were many heaps of frozen manure on the plain, +which we made use of as cover to lead us right up to our objective +point, the fence of the enclosures. In the shadow of this we slunk along +to the courtyard where the voices of the excited crowd beckoned us. As +we took good vantage points in the darkness for listening and making +observations, we remarked two extraordinary things in our immediate +neighborhood. + +Another invisible guest was present with us at the Chinese gathering. +He lay on the ground with his head in a hole dug by the dogs under the +fence. He was perfectly still and evidently had not heard our advance. +Nearby in a ditch lay a white horse with his nose muzzled and a little +further away stood another saddled horse tied to a fence. + +In the courtyard there was a great hubbub. About two thousand men +were shouting, arguing and flourishing their arms about in wild +gesticulations. Nearly all were armed with rifles, revolvers, swords +and axes. In among the crowd circulated the gamins, constantly +talking, handing out papers, explaining and assuring. Finally a big, +broad-shouldered Chinese mounted the well combing, waved his rifle about +over his head and opened a tirade in strong, sharp tones. + +"He is assuring the people," said our interpreter, "that they must +do here what the Chinese have done in Kobdo and must secure from the +Commissioner the assurance of an order to his guard not to prevent the +carrying out of their plans. Also that the Chinese Commissioner +must demand from the Russians all their weapons. 'Then we shall take +vengeance on the Russians for their Blagoveschensk crime when they +drowned three thousand Chinese in 1900. You remain here while I go to +the Commissioner and talk with him.'" + +He jumped down from the well and quickly made his way to the gate toward +the town. At once I saw the man who was lying with his head under the +fence draw back out of his hole, take his white horse from the ditch and +then run over to untie the other horse and lead them both back to our +side, which was away from the city. He left the second horse there and +hid himself around the corner of the hushun. The spokesman went out of +the gate and, seeing his horse over on the other side of the enclosure, +slung his rifle across his back and started for his mount. He had gone +about half way when the stranger behind the corner of the fence suddenly +galloped out and in a flash literally swung the man clear from the +ground up across the pommel of his saddle, where we saw him tie the +mouth of the semi-strangled Chinese with a cloth and dash off with him +toward the west away from the town. + +"Who do you suppose he is?" I asked of my friend, who answered up at +once: "It must be Tushegoun Lama. . . ." + +His whole appearance did strongly remind me of this mysterious Lama +avenger and his manner of addressing himself to his enemy was a strict +replica of that of Tushegoun. Late in the night we learned that some +time after their orator had gone to seek the Commissioner's cooperation +in their venture, his head had been flung over the fence into the midst +of the waiting audience and that eight gamins had disappeared on their +way from the hushun to the town without leaving trace or trail. This +event terrorized the Chinese mob and calmed their heated spirits. + +The next day we received very unexpected aid. A young Mongol galloped in +from Urga, his overcoat torn, his hair all dishevelled and fallen to +his shoulders and a revolver prominent beneath his girdle. Proceeding +directly to the market where the Mongols are always gathered, without +leaving his saddle he cried out: + +"Urga is captured by our Mongols and Chiang Chun Baron Ungern! Bogdo +Hutuktu is once more our Khan! Mongols, kill the Chinese and pillage +their shops! Our patience is exhausted!" + +Through the crowd rose the roar of excitement. The rider was surrounded +with a mob of insistent questioners. The old Mongol Sait, Chultun Beyli, +who had been dismissed by the Chinese, was at once informed of this news +and asked to have the messenger brought to him. After questioning the +man he arrested him for inciting the people to riot, but he refused to +turn him over to the Chinese authorities. I was personally with the +Sait at the time and heard his decision in the matter. When the Chinese +Commissioner, Wang Tsao-tsun, threatened the Sait for disobedience to +his authority, the old man simply fingered his rosary and said: + +"I believe the story of this Mongol in its every word and I apprehend +that you and I shall soon have to reverse our relationship." + +I felt that Wang Tsao-tsun also accepted the correctness of the Mongol's +story, because he did not insist further. From this moment the Chinese +disappeared from the streets of Uliassutai as though they never had +been, and synchronously the patrols of the Russian officers and of +our foreign colony took their places. The panic among the Chinese was +heightened by the receipt of a letter containing the news that the +Mongols and Altai Tartars under the leadership of the Tartar officer +Kaigorodoff pursued the Chinese who were making off with their booty +from the sack of Kobdo and overtook and annihilated them on the borders +of Sinkiang. Another part of the letter told how General Bakitch and +the six thousand men who had been interned with him by the Chinese +authorities on the River Amyl had received arms and started to join with +Ataman Annenkoff, who had been interned in Kuldja, with the ultimate +intention of linking up with Baron Ungern. This rumour proved to be +wrong because neither Bakitch nor Annenkoff entertained this intention, +because Annenkoff had been transported by the Chinese into the Depths of +Turkestan. However, the news produced veritable stupefaction among the +Chinese. + +Just at this time there arrived at the house of the Bolshevist Russian +colonist Bourdukoff three Bolshevik agents from Irkutsk named Saltikoff, +Freimann and Novak, who started an agitation among the Chinese +authorities to get them to disarm the Russian officers and hand them +over to the Reds. They persuaded the Chinese Chamber of Commerce to +petition the Irkutsk Soviet to send a detachment of Reds to Uliassutai +for the protection of the Chinese against the White detachments. +Freimann brought with him communistic pamphlets in Mongolian and +instructions to begin the reconstruction of the telegraph line to +Irkutsk. Bourdukoff also received some messages from the Bolsheviki. +This quartette developed their policy very successfully and soon +saw Wang Tsao-tsun fall in with their schemes. Once more the days of +expecting a pogrom in Uliassutai returned to us. The Russian officers +anticipated attempts to arrest them. The representative of one of the +American firms went with me to the Commissioner for a parley. We pointed +out to him the illegality of his acts, inasmuch as he was not authorized +by his Government to treat with the Bolsheviki when the Soviet +Government had not been recognized by Peking. Wang Tsao-tsun and his +advisor Fu Hsiang were palpably confused at finding we knew of his +secret meetings with the Bolshevik agents. He assured us that his guard +was sufficient to prevent any such pogrom. It was quite true that his +guard was very capable, as it consisted of well trained and disciplined +soldiers under the command of a serious-minded and well educated +officer; but, what could eighty soldiers do against a mob of three +thousand coolies, one thousand armed merchants and two hundred gamins? +We strongly registered our apprehensions and urged him to avoid any +bloodshed, pointing out that the foreign and Russian population were +determined to defend themselves to the last moment. Wang at once ordered +the establishment of strong guards on the streets and thus made a very +interesting picture with all the Russian, foreign and Chinese patrols +moving up and down throughout the whole town. Then we did not know there +were three hundred more sentinels on duty, the men of Tushegoun Lama +hidden nearby in the mountains. + +Once more the picture changed very sharply and suddenly. The Mongolian +Sait received news through the Lamas of the nearest monastery that +Colonel Kazagrandi, after fighting with the Chinese irregulars, had +captured Van Kure and had formed there Russian-Mongolian brigades of +cavalry, mobilizing the Mongols by the order of the Living Buddha and +the Russians by order of Baron Ungern. A few hours later it became known +that in the large monastery of Dzain the Chinese soldiers had killed the +Russian Captain Barsky and as a result some of the troops of Kazagrandi +attacked and swept the Chinese out of the place. At the taking of Van +Kure the Russians arrested a Korean Communist who was on his way from +Moscow with gold and propaganda to work in Korea and America. Colonel +Kazagrandi sent this Korean with his freight of gold to Baron Ungern. +After receiving this news the chief of the Russian detachment in +Uliassutai arrested all the Bolsheviki agents and passed judgment upon +them and upon the murderers of the Bobroffs. Kanine, Madame Pouzikoff +and Freimann were shot. Regarding Saltikoff and Novak some doubt sprang +up and, moreover, Saltikoff escaped and hid, while Novak, under advice +from Lieutenant Colonel Michailoff, left for the west. The chief of the +Russian detachment gave out orders for the mobilization of the Russian +colonists and openly took Uliassutai under his protection with the tacit +agreement of the Mongolian authorities. The Mongol Sait, Chultun Beyli, +convened a council of the neighboring Mongolian Princes, the soul of +which was the noted Mongolian patriot, Hun Jap Lama. The Princes quickly +formulated their demands upon the Chinese for the complete evacuation of +the territory subject to the Sait Chultun Beyli. Out of it grew parleys, +threats and friction between the various Chinese and Mongolian elements. +Wang Tsao-tsun proposed his scheme of settlement, which some of the +Mongolian Princes accepted; but Jap Lama at the decisive moment threw +the Chinese document to the ground, drew his knife and swore that +he would die by his own hand rather than set it as a seal upon this +treacherous agreement. As a result the Chinese proposals were rejected +and the antagonists began to prepare themselves for the struggle. All +the armed Mongols were summoned from Jassaktu Khan, Sain-Noion Khan and +the dominion of Jahantsi Lama. The Chinese authorities placed their +four machine guns and prepared to defend the fortress. Continuous +deliberations were held by both the Chinese and Mongols. Finally, our +old acquaintance Tzeren came to me as one of the unconcerned foreigners +and handed to me the joint requests of Wang Tsao-tsun and Chultun Beyli +to try to pacify the two elements and to work out a fair agreement +between them. Similar requests were handed to the representative of an +American firm. The following evening we held the first meeting of +the arbitrators and the Chinese and Mongolian representatives. It +was passionate and stormy, so that we foreigners lost all hope of the +success of our mission. However, at midnight when the speakers were +tired, we secured agreement on two points: the Mongols announced that +they did not want to make war and that they desired to settle this +matter in such a way as to retain the friendship of the great Chinese +people; while the Chinese Commissioner acknowledged that China had +violated the treaties by which full independence had been legally +granted to Mongolia. + +These two points formed for us the groundwork of the next meeting and +gave us the starting points for urging reconciliation. The deliberations +continued for three days and finally turned so that we foreigners could +propose our suggestions for an agreement. Its chief provisions were that +the Chinese authorities should surrender administrative powers, return +the arms to the Mongolians, disarm the two hundred gamins and leave +the country; and that the Mongols on their side should give free and +honorable passage of their country to the Commissioner with his armed +guard of eighty men. This Chinese-Mongolian Treaty of Uliassutai was +signed and sealed by the Chinese Commissioners, Wang Tsao-tsun and Fu +Hsiang, by both Mongolian Saits, by Hun Jap Lama and other Princes, +as well as by the Russian and Chinese Presidents of the Chambers of +Commerce and by us foreign arbitrators. The Chinese officials and convoy +began at once to pack up their belongings and prepare for departure. The +Chinese merchants remained in Uliassutai because Sait Chultun Beyli, +now having full authority and power, guaranteed their safety. The day of +departure for the expedition of Wang Tsao-tsun arrived. The camels with +their packs already filled the yamen court-yard and the men only awaited +the arrival of their horses from the plains. Suddenly the news spread +everywhere that the herd of horses had been stolen during the night +and run off toward the south. Of two soldiers that had been sent out to +follow the tracks of the herd only one came back with the news that the +other had been killed. Astonishment spread over the whole town while +among the Chinese it turned to open panic. It perceptibly increased when +some Mongols from a distant ourton to the east came in and announced +that in various places along the post road to Urga they had discovered +the bodies of sixteen of the soldiers whom Wang Tsao-tsun had sent +out with letters for Urga. The mystery of these events will soon be +explained. + +The chief of the Russian detachment received a letter from a Cossack +Colonel, V. N. Domojiroff, containing the order to disarm immediately +the Chinese garrison, to arrest all Chinese officials for transport +to Baron Ungern at Urga, to take control of Uliassutai, by force if +necessary, and to join forces with his detachment. At the very same time +a messenger from the Narabanchi Hutuktu galloped in with a letter to the +effect that a Russian detachment under the leadership of Hun Boldon and +Colonel Domojiroff from Urga had pillaged some Chinese firms and killed +the merchants, had come to the Monastery and demanded horses, food and +shelter. The Hutuktu asked for help because the ferocious conqueror of +Kobdo, Hun Boldon, could very easily pillage the unprotected isolated +monastery. We strongly urged Colonel Michailoff not to violate the +sealed treaty and discountenance all the foreigners and Russians who had +taken part in making it, for this would but be to imitate the Bolshevik +principle of making deceit the leading rule in all acts of state. +This touched Michailoff and he answered Domojiroff that Uliassutai was +already in his hands without a fight; that over the building of the +former Russian Consulate the tri-color flag of Russia was flying; the +gamins had been disarmed but that the other orders could not be carried +out, because their execution would violate the Chinese-Mongolian treaty +just signed in Uliassutai. + +Daily several envoys traveled from Narabanchi Hutuktu to Uliassutai. +The news became more and more disquieting. The Hutuktu reported that Hun +Boldon was mobilizing the Mongolian beggars and horse stealers, arming +and training them; that the soldiers were taking the sheep of the +monastery; that the "Noyon" Domojiroff was always drunk; and that the +protests of the Hutuktu were answered with jeers and scolding. The +messengers gave very indefinite information regarding the strength of +the detachment, some placing it at about thirty while others stated that +Domojiroff said he had eight hundred in all. We could not understand +it at all and soon the messengers ceased coming. All the letters of the +Sait remained unanswered and the envoys did not return. There seemed to +be no doubt that the men had been killed or captured. + +Prince Chultun Beyli determined to go himself. He took with him the +Russian and Chinese Presidents of the Chambers of Commerce and two +Mongolian officers. Three days elapsed without receiving any news +from him whatever. The Mongols began to get worried. Then the Chinese +Commissioner and Hun Jap Lama addressed a request to the foreigner +group to send some one to Narabanchi, in order to try to resolve the +controversy there and to persuade Domojiroff to recognize the treaty and +not permit the "great insult of violation" of a covenant between the two +great peoples. Our group asked me once more to accomplish this mission +pro bono publico. I had assigned me as interpreter a fine young Russian +colonist, the nephew of the murdered Bobroff, a splendid rider as well +as a cool, brave man. Lt.-Colonel Michailoff gave me one of his officers +to accompany me. Supplied with an express tzara for the post horses and +guides, we traveled rapidly over the way which was now familiar to me +to find my old friend, Jelib Djamsrap Huktuktu of Narabanchi. Although +there was deep snow in some places, we made from one hundred to one +hundred and fifteen miles per day. + + +CHAPTER XXVI + +THE BAND OF WHITE HUNGHUTZES + + +We arrived at Narabanchi late at night on the third day out. As we were +approaching, we noticed several riders who, as soon as they had seen us, +galloped quickly back to the monastery. For some time we looked for the +camp of the Russian detachment without finding it. The Mongols led us +into the monastery, where the Hutuktu immediately received me. In his +yurta sat Chultun Beyli. There he presented me with hatyks and said to +me: "The very God has sent you here to us in this difficult moment." + +It seems Domojiroff had arrested both the Presidents of the Chambers of +Commerce and had threatened to shoot Prince Chultun. Both Domojiroff and +Hun Boldon had no documents legalizing their activities. Chultun Beyli +was preparing to fight with them. + +I asked them to take me to Domojiroff. Through the dark I saw four big +yurtas and two Mongol sentinels with Russian rifles. We entered the +Russian "Noyon's" tent. A very strange picture was presented to our +eyes. In the middle of the yurta the brazier was burning. In the usual +place for the altar stood a throne, on which the tall, thin, grey-haired +Colonel Domojiroff was seated. He was only in his undergarments and +stockings, was evidently a little drunk and was telling stories. Around +the brazier lay twelve young men in various picturesque poses. My +officer companion reported to Domojiroff about the events in Uliassutai +and during the conversation I asked Domojiroff where his detachment was +encamped. He laughed and answered, with a sweep of his hand: "This is my +detachment." I pointed out to him that the form of his orders to us in +Uliassutai had led us to believe that he must have a large company with +him. Then I informed him that Lt.-Colonel Michailoff was preparing to +cross swords with the Bolshevik force approaching Uliassutai. + +"What?" he exclaimed with fear and confusion, "the Reds?" + +We spent the night in his yurta and, when I was ready to lie down, my +officer whispered to me: + +"Be sure to keep your revolver handy," to which I laughed and said: + +"But we are in the center of a White detachment and therefore in perfect +safety!" + +"Uh-huh!" answered my officer and finished the response with one eye +closed. + +The next day I invited Domojiroff to walk with me over the plain, when +I talked very frankly with him about what had been happening. He and Hun +Boldon had received orders from Baron Ungern simply to get into touch +with General Bakitch, but instead they began pillaging Chinese firms +along the route and he had made up his mind to become a great conqueror. +On the way he had run across some of the officers who deserted Colonel +Kazagrandi and formed his present band. I succeeded in persuading +Domojiroff to arrange matters peacefully with Chultun Beyli and not to +violate the treaty. He immediately went ahead to the monastery. As I +returned, I met a tall Mongol with a ferocious face, dressed in a blue +silk outercoat--it was Hun Boldon. He introduced himself and spoke +with me in Russian. I had only time to take off my coat in the tent of +Domojiroff when a Mongol came running to invite me to the yurta of +Hun Boldon. The Prince lived just beside me in a splendid blue yurta. +Knowing the Mongolian custom, I jumped into the saddle and rode the ten +paces to his door. Hun Boldon received me with coldness and pride. + +"Who is he?" he inquired of the interpreter, pointing to me with his +finger. + +I understood his desire to offend me and I answered in the same manner, +thrusting out my finger toward him and turning to the interpreter with +the same question in a slightly more unpleasant tone: + +"Who is he? High Prince and warrior or shepherd and brute?" + +Boldon at once became confused and, with trembling voice and agitation +in his whole manner, blurted out to me that he would not allow me to +interfere in his affairs and would shoot every man who dared to run +counter to his orders. He pounded on the low table with his fist and +then rose up and drew his revolver. But I was much traveled among the +nomads and had studied them thoroughly--Princes, Lamas, shepherds and +brigands. I grasped my whip and, striking it on the table with all my +strength, I said to the interpreter: + +"Tell him that he has the honor to speak with neither Mongol nor Russian +but with a foreigner, a citizen of a great and free state. Tell him he +must first learn to be a man and then he can visit me and we can talk +together." + +I turned and went out. Ten minutes later Hun Boldon entered my yurta and +offered his apologies. I persuaded him to parley with Chultun Beyli +and not to offend the free Mongol people with his activities. That very +night all was arranged. Hun Boldon dismissed his Mongols and left for +Kobdo, while Domojiroff with his band started for Jassaktu Khan to +arrange for the mobilization of the Mongols there. With the consent of +Chultun Beyli he wrote to Wang Tsao-tsun a demand to disarm his guard, +as all of the Chinese troops in Urga had been so treated; but this +letter arrived after Wang had bought camels to replace the stolen horses +and was on his way to the border. Later Lt.-Colonel Michailoff sent +a detachment of fifty men under the command of Lieutenant Strigine to +overhaul Wang and receive their arms. + + +CHAPTER XXVII + +MYSTERY IN A SMALL TEMPLE + + +Prince Chultun Beyli and I were ready to leave the Narabanchi Kure. +While the Hutuktu was holding service for the Sait in the Temple of +Blessing, I wandered around through the narrow alleyways between the +walls of the houses of the various grades of Lama Gelongs, Getuls, +Chaidje and Rabdjampa; of schools where the learned doctors of theology +or Maramba taught together with the doctors of medicine or Ta Lama; +of the residences for students called Bandi; of stores, archives and +libraries. When I returned to the yurta of the Hutuktu, he was inside. +He presented me with a large hatyk and proposed a walk around the +monastery. His face wore a preoccupied expression from which I gathered +that he had something he wished to discuss with me. As we went out of +the yurta, the liberated President of the Russian Chamber of Commerce +and a Russian officer joined us. The Hutuktu led us to a small building +just back of a bright yellow stone wall. + +"In that building once stopped the Dalai Lama and Bogdo Khan and we +always paint the buildings yellow where these holy persons have lived. +Enter!" + +The interior of the building was arranged with splendor. On the ground +floor was the dining-room, furnished with richly carved, heavy blackwood +Chinese tables and cabinets filled with porcelains and bronze. Above +were two rooms, the first a bed-room hung with heavy yellow silk +curtains; a large Chinese lantern richly set with colored stones hung +by a thin bronze chain from the carved wooden ceiling beam. Here stood +a large square bed covered with silken pillows, mattresses and blankets. +The frame work of the bed was also of the Chinese blackwood and carried, +especially on the posts that held the roof-like canopy, finely executed +carvings with the chief motive the conventional dragon devouring the +sun. By the side stood a chest of drawers completely covered with +carvings setting forth religious pictures. Four comfortable easy chairs +completed the furniture, save for the low oriental throne which stood on +a dais at the end of the room. + +"Do you see this throne?" said the Hutuktu to me. "One night in winter +several horsemen rode into the monastery and demanded that all the +Gelongs and Getuls with the Hutuktu and Kanpo at their head should +congregate in this room. Then one of the strangers mounted the throne, +where he took off his bashlyk or cap-like head covering. All of the +Lamas fell to their knees as they recognized the man who had been long +ago described in the sacred bulls of Dalai Lama, Tashi Lama and Bogdo +Khan. He was the man to whom the whole world belongs and who has +penetrated into all the mysteries of Nature. He pronounced a short +Tibetan prayer, blessed all his hearers and afterwards made predictions +for the coming half century. This was thirty years ago and in the +interim all his prophecies are being fulfilled. During his prayers +before that small shrine in the next room this door opened of its own +accord, the candles and lights before the altar lighted themselves and +the sacred braziers without coals gave forth great streams of incense +that filled the room. And then, without warning, the King of the World +and his companions disappeared from among us. Behind him remained no +trace save the folds in the silken throne coverings which smoothed +themselves out and left the throne as though no one had sat upon it." + +The Hutuktu entered the shrine, kneeled down, covering his eyes with his +hands, and began to pray. I looked at the calm, indifferent face of the +golden Buddha, over which the flickering lamps threw changing shadows, +and then turned my eyes to the side of the throne. It was wonderful and +difficult to believe but I really saw there the strong, muscular figure +of a man with a swarthy face of stern and fixed expression about the +mouth and jaws, thrown into high relief by the brightness of the eyes. +Through his transparent body draped in white raiment I saw the Tibetan +inscriptions on the back of the throne. I closed my eyes and opened +them again. No one was there but the silk throne covering seemed to be +moving. + +"Nervousness," I thought. "Abnormal and over-emphasized +impressionability growing out of the unusual surroundings and strains." + +The Hutuktu turned to me and said: "Give me your hatyk. I have the +feeling that you are troubled about those whom you love, and I want +to pray for them. And you must pray also, importune God and direct the +sight of your soul to the King of the World who was here and sanctified +this place." + +The Hutuktu placed the hatyk on the shoulder of the Buddha and, +prostrating himself on the carpet before the altar, whispered the words +of prayer. Then he raised his head and beckoned me to him with a slight +movement of his hand. + +"Look at the dark space behind the statue of Buddha and he will show +your beloved to you." + +Readily obeying his deep-voiced command, I began to look into the dark +niche behind the figure of the Buddha. Soon out of the darkness began to +appear streams of smoke or transparent threads. They floated in the air, +becoming more and more dense and increasing in number, until gradually +they formed the bodies of several persons and the outlines of various +objects. I saw a room that was strange to me with my family there, +surrounded by some whom I knew and others whom I did not. I recognized +even the dress my wife wore. Every line of her dear face was clearly +visible. Gradually the vision became too dark, dissipated itself into +the streams of smoke and transparent threads and disappeared. Behind the +golden Buddha was nothing but the darkness. The Hutuktu arose, took my +hatyk from the shoulder of the Buddha and handed it to me with these +words: + +"Fortune is always with you and with your family. God's goodness will +not forsake you." + +We left the building of this unknown King of the World, where he had +prayed for all mankind and had predicted the fate of peoples and states. +I was greatly astonished to find that my companions had also seen my +vision and to hear them describe to me in minute detail the appearance +and the clothes of the persons whom I had seen in the dark niche behind +the head of Buddha.* + + * In order that I might have the evidence of others on this + extraordinarily impressive vision, I asked them to make + protocols or affidavits concerning what they saw. This they + did and I now have these statements in my possession. + +The Mongol officer also told me that Chultun Beyli had the day before +asked the Hutuktu to reveal to him his fate in this important juncture +of his life and in this crisis of his country but the Hutuktu only waved +his hand in an expression of fear and refused. When I asked the Hutuktu +for the reason of his refusal, suggesting to him that it might calm and +help Chultun Beyli as the vision of my beloved had strengthened me, the +Hutuktu knitted his brow and answered: + +"No! The vision would not please the Prince. His fate is black. +Yesterday I thrice sought his fortune on the burned shoulder blades and +with the entrails of sheep and each time came to the same dire result, +the same dire result! . . ." + +He did not really finish speaking but covered his face with his hands +in fear. He was convinced that the lot of Chultun Beyli was black as the +night. + +In an hour we were behind the low hills that hid the Narabanchi Kure +from our sight. + + +CHAPTER XXVIII + +THE BREATH OF DEATH + + +We arrived at Uliassutai on the day of the return of the detachment +which had gone out to disarm the convoy of Wang Tsao-tsun. This +detachment had met Colonel Domojiroff, who ordered them not only to +disarm but to pillage the convoy and, unfortunately, Lieutenant Strigine +executed this illegal and unwarranted command. It was compromising and +ignominious to see Russian officers and soldiers wearing the Chinese +overcoats, boots and wrist watches which had been taken from the Chinese +officials and the convoy. Everyone had Chinese silver and gold also from +the loot. The Mongol wife of Wang Tsao-tsun and her brother returned +with the detachment and entered a complaint of having been robbed by +the Russians. The Chinese officials and their convoy, deprived of their +supplies, reached the Chinese border only after great distress +from hunger and cold. We foreigners were astounded that Lt.-Colonel +Michailoff received Strigine with military honors but we caught the +explanation of it later when we learned that Michailoff had been given +some of the Chinese silver and his wife the handsomely decorated saddle +of Fu Hsiang. Chultun Beyli demanded that all the weapons taken from the +Chinese and all the stolen property be turned over to him, as it must +later be returned to the Chinese authorities; but Michailoff refused. +Afterwards we foreigners cut off all contact with the Russian +detachment. The relations between the Russians and Mongols became very +strained. Several of the Russian officers protested against the acts of +Michailoff and Strigine and controversies became more and more serious. + +At this time, one morning in April, an extraordinary group of armed +horsemen arrived at Uliassutai. They stayed at the house of the +Bolshevik Bourdukoff, who gave them, so we were told, a great quantity +of silver. This group explained that they were former officers in the +Imperial Guard. They were Colonels Poletika, N. N. Philipoff and three +of the latter's brothers. They announced that they wanted to collect all +the White officers and soldiers then in Mongolia and China and lead them +to Urianhai to fight the Bolsheviki; but that first they wanted to wipe +out Ungern and return Mongolia to China. They called themselves the +representatives of the Central Organization of the Whites in Russia. + +The society of Russian officers in Uliassutai invited them to a meeting, +examined their documents and interrogated them. Investigation proved +that all the statements of these officers about their former connections +were entirely wrong, that Poletika occupied an important position in the +war commissariat of the Bolsheviki, that one of the Philipoff brothers +was the assistant of Kameneff in his first attempt to reach England, +that the Central White Organization in Russia did not exist, that the +proposed fighting in Urianhai was but a trap for the White officers and +that this group was in close relations with the Bolshevik Bourdukoff. + +A discussion at once sprang up among the officers as to what they +should do with this group, which split the detachment into two distinct +parties. Lt.-Colonel Michailoff with several officers joined themselves +to Poletika's group just as Colonel Domojiroff arrived with his +detachment. He began to get in touch with both factions and to feel out +the politics of the situation, finally appointing Poletika to the post +of Commandant of Uliassutai and sending to Baron Ungern a full report +of the events in the town. In this document he devoted much space to me, +accusing me of standing in the way of the execution of his orders. His +officers watched me continuously. From different quarters I received +warnings to take great care. This band and its leader openly demanded +to know what right this foreigner had to interfere in the affairs of +Mongolia, one of Domojiroff's officers directly giving me the challenge +in a meeting in the attempt to provoke a controversy. I quietly answered +him: + +"And on what basis do the Russian refugees interfere, they who have +rights neither at home nor abroad?" + +The officer made no verbal reply but in his eyes burned a definite +answer. My huge friend who sat beside me noticed this, strode over +toward him and, towering over him, stretched his arms and hands as +though just waking from sleep and remarked: "I'm looking for a little +boxing exercise." + +On one occasion Domojiroff's men would have succeeded in taking me if I +had not been saved by the watchfulness of our foreign group. I had gone +to the fortress to negotiate with the Mongol Sait for the departure of +the foreigners from Uliassutai. Chultun Beyli detained me for a long +time, so that I was forced to return about nine in the evening. My horse +was walking. Half a mile from the town three men sprang up out of the +ditch and ran at me. I whipped up my horse but noticed several more men +coming out of the other ditch as though to head me off. They, however, +made for the other group and captured them and I heard the voice of a +foreigner calling me back. There I found three of Domojiroff's officers +surrounded by the Polish soldiers and other foreigners under the +leadership of my old trusted agronome, who was occupied with tying the +hands of the officers behind their backs so strongly that the bones +cracked. Ending his work and still smoking his perpetual pipe, he +announced in a serious and important manner: "I think it best to throw +them into the river." + +Laughing at his seriousness and the fear of Domojiroff's officers, I +asked them why they had started to attack me. They dropped their eyes +and were silent. It was an eloquent silence and we perfectly understood +what they had proposed to do. They had revolvers hidden in their +pockets. + +"Fine!" I said. "All is perfectly clear. I shall release you but you +must report to your sender that he will not welcome you back the next +time. Your weapons I shall hand to the Commandant of Uliassutai." + +My friend, using his former terrifying care, began to untie them, +repeating over and over: "And I would have fed you to the fishes in the +river!" Then we all returned to the town, leaving them to go their way. + +Domojiroff continued to send envoys to Baron Ungern at Urga with +requests for plenary powers and money and with reports about Michailoff, +Chultun Beyli, Poletika, Philipoff and myself. With Asiatic cunning +he was then maintaining good relations with all those for whom he was +preparing death at the hands of the severe warrior, Baron Ungern, +who was receiving only one-sided reports about all the happenings in +Uliassutai. Our whole colony was greatly agitated. The officers split +into different parties; the soldiers collected in groups and discussed +the events of the day, criticising their chiefs, and under the influence +of some of Domojiroff's men began making such statements as: + +"We have now seven Colonels, who all want to be in command and are all +quarreling among themselves. They all ought to be pegged down and given +good sound thrashings. The one who could take the greatest number of +blows ought to be chosen as our chief." + +It was an ominous joke that proved the demoralization of the Russian +detachment. + +"It seems," my friend frequently observed, "that we shall soon have the +pleasure of seeing a Council of Soldiers here in Uliassutai. God and +the Devil! One thing here is very unfortunate--there are no forests +near into which good Christian men may dive and get away from all these +cursed Soviets. It's bare, frightfully bare, this wretched Mongolia, +with no place for us to hide." + +Really this possibility of the Soviet was approaching. On one occasion +the soldiers captured the arsenal containing the weapons surrendered +by the Chinese and carried them off to their barracks. Drunkenness, +gambling and fighting increased. We foreigners, carefully watching +events and in fear of a catastrophe, finally decided to leave +Uliassutai, that caldron of passions, controversies and denunciations. +We heard that the group of Poletika was also preparing to get out a few +days later. We foreigners separated into two parties, one traveling by +the old caravan route across the Gobi considerably to the south of Urga +to Kuku-Hoto or Kweihuacheng and Kalgan, and mine, consisting of my +friend, two Polish soldiers and myself, heading for Urga via Zain Shabi, +where Colonel Kazagrandi had asked me in a recent letter to meet him. +Thus we left the Uliassutai where we had lived through so many exciting +events. + +On the sixth day after our departure there arrived in the town the +Mongol-Buriat detachment under the command of the Buriat Vandaloff and +the Russian Captain Bezrodnoff. Afterwards I met them in Zain Shabi. It +was a detachment sent out from Urga by Baron Ungern to restore order +in Uliassutai and to march on to Kobdo. On the way from Zain Shabi +Bezrodnoff came across the group of Poletika and Michailoff. He +instituted a search which disclosed suspicious documents in their +baggage and in that of Michailoff and his wife the silver and other +possessions taken from the Chinese. From this group of sixteen he sent +N. N. Philipoff to Baron Ungern, released three others and shot the +remaining twelve. Thus ended in Zain Shabi the life of one party of +Uliassutai refugees and the activities of the group of Poletika. In +Uliassutai Bezrodnoff shot Chultun Beyli for the violation of the treaty +with the Chinese, and also some Bolshevist Russian colonists; arrested +Domojiroff and sent him to Urga; and . . . restored order. The +predictions about Chultun Beyli were fulfilled. + +I knew of Domojiroff's reports regarding myself but I decided, +nevertheless, to proceed to Urga and not to swing round it, as Poletika +had started to do when he was accidentally captured by Bezrodnoff. I was +accustomed now to looking into the eyes of danger and I set out to meet +the terrible "bloody Baron." No one can decide his own fate. I did not +think myself in the wrong and the feeling of fear had long since ceased +to occupy a place in my menage. On the way a Mongol rider who overhauled +us brought the news of the death of our acquaintances at Zain Shabi. He +spent the night with me in the yurta at the ourton and related to me the +following legend of death. + +"It was a long time ago when the Mongolians ruled over China. The +Prince of Uliassutai, Beltis Van, was mad. He executed any one he wished +without trial and no one dared to pass through his town. All the other +Princes and rich Mongols surrounded Uliassutai, where Beltis raged, +cut off communication on every road and allowed none to pass in or out. +Famine developed in the town. They consumed all the oxen, sheep and +horses and finally Beltis Van determined to make a dash with his +soldiers through to the west to the land of one of his tribes, the +Olets. He and his men all perished in the fight. The Princes, following +the advice of the Hutuktu Buyantu, buried the dead on the slopes of the +mountains surrounding Uliassutai. They buried them with incantations and +exorcisings in order that Death by Violence might be kept from a further +visitation to their land. The tombs were covered with heavy stones and +the Hutuktu predicted that the bad demon of Death by Violence would +only leave the earth when the blood of a man should be spilled upon the +covering stone. Such a legend lived among us. Now it is fulfilled. The +Russians shot there three Bolsheviki and the Chinese two Mongols. The +evil spirit of Beltis Van broke loose from beneath the heavy stone and +now mows down the people with his scythe. The noble Chultun Beyli has +perished; the Russian Noyon Michailoff also has fallen; and death has +flowed out from Uliassutai all over our boundless plains. Who shall be +able to stem it now? Who shall tie the ferocious hands? An evil time has +fallen upon the Gods and the Good Spirits. The Evil Demons have made war +upon the Good Spirits. What can man now do? Only perish, only +perish. . . ." + + + + +Part III + +THE STRAINING HEART OF ASIA + + +CHAPTER XXIX + +ON THE ROAD OF GREAT CONQUERORS + + +The great conqueror, Jenghiz Khan, the son of sad, stern, severe +Mongolia, according to an old Mongolian legend "mounted to the top of +Karasu Togol and with his eyes of an eagle looked to the west and the +east. In the west he saw whole seas of human blood over which floated +a bloody fog that blanketed all the horizon. There he could not discern +his fate. But the gods ordered him to proceed to the west, leading with +him all his warriors and Mongolian tribes. To the east he saw wealthy +towns, shining temples, crowds of happy people, gardens and fields of +rich earth, all of which pleased the great Mongol. He said to his sons: +'There in the west I shall be fire and sword, destroyer, avenging +Fate; in the east I shall come as the merciful, great builder, bringing +happiness to the people and to the land.'" + +Thus runs the legend. I found much of truth in it. I had passed over +much of his road to the west and always identified it by the old tombs +and the impertinent monuments of stone to the merciless conqueror. I saw +also a part of the eastern road of the hero, over which he traveled to +China. Once when we were making a trip out of Uliassutai we stopped the +night in Djirgalantu. The old host of the ourton, knowing me from my +previous trip to Narabanchi, welcomed us very kindly and regaled us with +stories during our evening meal. Among other things he led us out of the +yurta and pointed out a mountain peak brightly lighted by the full moon +and recounted to us the story of one of the sons of Jenghiz, afterwards +Emperor of China, Indo-China and Mongolia, who had been attracted by the +beautiful scenery and grazing lands of Djirgalantu and had founded here +a town. This was soon left without inhabitants, for the Mongol is a +nomad who cannot live in artificial cities. The plain is his house and +the world his town. For a time this town witnessed battles between the +Chinese and the troops of Jenghiz Khan but afterwards it was forgotten. +At present there remains only a half-ruined tower, from which in the +early days the heavy rocks were hurled down upon the heads of the +enemy, and the dilapidated gate of Kublai, the grandson of Jenghiz Khan. +Against the greenish sky drenched with the rays of the moon stood out +the jagged line of the mountains and the black silhouette of the tower +with its loopholes, through which the alternate scudding clouds and +light flashed. + +When our party left Uliassutai, we traveled on leisurely, making +thirty-five to fifty miles a day until we were within sixty miles of +Zain Shabi, where I took leave of the others to go south to this place +in order to keep my engagement with Colonel Kazagrandi. The sun had just +risen as my single Mongol guide and I without any pack animals began to +ascend the low, timbered ridges, from the top of which I caught the last +glimpses of my companions disappearing down the valley. I had no idea +then of the many and almost fatal dangers which I should have to pass +through during this trip by myself, which was destined to prove much +longer than I had anticipated. As we were crossing a small river with +sandy shores, my Mongol guide told me how the Mongolians came there +during the summer to wash gold, in spite of the prohibitions of the +Lamas. The manner of working the placer was very primitive but the +results testified clearly to the richness of these sands. The Mongol +lies flat on the ground, brushes the sand aside with a feather and keeps +blowing into the little excavation so formed. From time to time he wets +his finger and picks up on it a small bit of grain gold or a diminutive +nugget and drops these into a little bag hanging under his chin. In such +manner this primitive dredge wins about a quarter of an ounce or five +dollars' worth of the yellow metal per day. + +I determined to make the whole distance to Zain Shabi in a single day. +At the ourtons I hurried them through the catching and saddling of the +horses as fast as I could. At one of these stations about twenty-five +miles from the monastery the Mongols gave me a wild horse, a big, strong +white stallion. Just as I was about to mount him and had already touched +my foot to the stirrup, he jumped and kicked me right on the leg which +had been wounded in the Ma-chu fight. The leg soon began to swell and +ache. At sunset I made out the first Russian and Chinese buildings +and later the monastery at Zain. We dropped into the valley of a small +stream which flowed along a mountain on whose peak were set white rocks +forming the words of a Tibetan prayer. At the bottom of this mountain +was a cemetery for the Lamas, that is, piles of bones and a pack +of dogs. At last the monastery lay right below us, a common square +surrounded with wooden fences. In the middle rose a large temple quite +different from all those of western Mongolia, not in the Chinese but in +the Tibetan style of architecture, a white building with perpendicular +walls and regular rows of windows in black frames, with a roof of black +tiles and with a most unusual damp course laid between the stone walls +and the roof timbers and made of bundles of twigs from a Tibetan tree +which never rots. Another small quadrangle lay a little to the east and +contained Russian buildings connected with the monastery by telephone. + +"That is the house of the Living God of Zain," the Mongol explained, +pointing to this smaller quadrangle. "He likes Russian customs and +manners." + +To the north on a conical-shaped hill rose a tower that recalled the +Babylonian zikkurat. It was the temple where the ancient books and +manuscripts were kept and the broken ornaments and objects used in +the religious ceremonies together with the robes of deceased Hutuktus +preserved. A sheer cliff rose behind this museum, which it was +impossible for one to climb. On the face of this were carved images of +the Lamaite gods, scattered about without any special order. They were +from one to two and a half metres high. At night the monks lighted +lamps before them, so that one could see these images of the gods and +goddesses from far away. + +We entered the trading settlement. The streets were deserted and from +the windows only women and children looked out. I stopped with a Russian +firm whose other branches I had known throughout the country. Much to my +astonishment they welcomed me as an acquaintance. It appeared that +the Hutuktu of Narabanchi had sent word to all the monasteries that, +whenever I should come, they must all render me aid, inasmuch as I +had saved the Narabanchi Monastery and, by the clear signs of the +divinations, I was an incarnate Buddha beloved of the Gods. This letter +of this kindly disposed Hutuktu helped me very much--perhaps I should +even say more, that it saved me from death. The hospitality of my hosts +proved of great and much needed assistance to me because my injured leg +had swelled and was aching severely. When I took off my boot, I found +my foot all covered with blood and my old wound re-opened by the blow. A +felcher was called to assist me with treatment and bandaging, so that I +was able to walk again three days later. + +I did not find Colonel Kazagrandi at Zain Shabi. After destroying the +Chinese gamins who had killed the local Commandant, he had returned via +Van Kure. The new Commandment handed me the letter of Kazagrandi, who +very cordially asked me to visit him after I had rested in Zain. A +Mongolian document was enclosed in the letter giving me the right to +receive horses and carts from herd to herd by means of the "urga," which +I shall later describe and which opened for me an entirely new vista of +Mongolian life and country that I should otherwise never have seen. The +making of this journey of over two hundred miles was a very disagreeable +task for me; but evidently Kazagrandi, whom I had never met, had serious +reasons for wishing this meeting. + +At one o'clock the day after my arrival I was visited by the local +"Very God," Gheghen Pandita Hutuktu. A more strange and extraordinary +appearance of a god I could not imagine. He was a short, thin young man +of twenty or twenty-two years with quick, nervous movements and with an +expressive face lighted and dominated, like the countenances of all the +Mongol gods, by large, frightened eyes. He was dressed in a blue silk +Russian uniform with yellow epaulets with the sacred sign of Pandita +Hutuktu, in blue silk trousers and high boots, all surmounted by a white +Astrakhan cap with a yellow pointed top. At his girdle a revolver and +sword were slung. I did not know quite what to think of this disguised +god. He took a cup of tea from the host and began to talk with a mixture +of Mongolian and Russian. + +"Not far from my Kure is located the ancient monastery of Erdeni Dzu, +erected on the site of the ruins of Karakorum, the ancient capital +of Jenghiz Khan and afterwards frequently visited by Kublai Kahn for +sanctuary and rest after his labors as Emperor of China, India, Persia, +Afghanistan, Mongolia and half of Europe. Now only ruins and tombs +remain to mark this former 'Garden of Beatific Days.' The pious monks of +Baroun Kure found in the underground chambers of the ruins manuscripts +that were much older than Erdeni Dzu itself. In these my Maramba +Meetchik-Atak found the prediction that the Hutuktu of Zain who should +carry the title of 'Pandita,' should be but twenty-one years of age, be +born in the heart of the lands of Jenghiz Khan and have on his chest +the natural sign of the swastika--such Hutuktu would be honored by the +people in the days of a great war and trouble, would begin the fight +with the servants of Red evil and would conquer them and bring order +into the universe, celebrating this happy day in the city with white +temples and with the songs of ten thousand bells. It is I, Pandita +Hutuktu! The signs and symbols have met in me. I shall destroy the +Bolsheviki, the bad 'servants of the Red evil,' and in Moscow I shall +rest from my glorious and great work. Therefore I have asked Colonel +Kazagrandi to enlist me in the troops of Baron Ungern and give me the +chance to fight. The Lamas seek to prevent me from going but who is the +god here?" + +He very sternly stamped his foot, while the Lamas and guard who +accompanied him reverently bowed their heads. + +As he left he presented me with a hatyk and, rummaging through my saddle +bags, I found a single article that might be considered worthy as a +gift for a Hutuktu, a small bottle of osmiridium, this rare, natural +concomitant of platinum. + +"This is the most stable and hardest of metals," I said. "Let it be the +sign of your glory and strength, Hutuktu!" + +The Pandita thanked me and invited me to visit him. When I had recovered +a little, I went to his house, which was arranged in European style: +electric lights, push bells and telephone. He feasted me with wine and +sweets and introduced me to two very interesting personages, one an old +Tibetan surgeon with a face deeply pitted by smallpox, a heavy thick +nose and crossed eyes. He was a peculiar surgeon, consecrated in Tibet. +His duties consisted in treating and curing Hutuktus when they were +ill and . . . in poisoning them when they became too independent or +extravagant or when their policies were not in accord with the wishes +of the Council of Lamas of the Living Buddha or the Dalai Lama. By +now Pandita Hutuktu probably rests in eternal peace on the top of some +sacred mountain, sent thither by the solicitude of his extraordinary +court physician. The martial spirit of Pandita Hutuktu was very +unwelcome to the Council of Lamas, who protested against the +adventuresomeness of this "Living God." + +Pandita liked wine and cards. One day when he was in the company of +Russians and dressed in a European suit, some Lamas came running to +announce that divine service had begun and that the "Living God" must +take his place on the altar to be prayed to but he had gone out from his +abode and was playing cards! Without any confusion Pandita drew his red +mantle of the Hutuktu over his European coat and long grey trousers and +allowed the shocked Lamas to carry their "God" away in his palanquin. + +Besides the surgeon-poisoner I met at the Hutuktu's a lad of thirteen +years, whose youthfulness, red robe and cropped hair led me to suppose +he was a Bandi or student servant in the home of the Hutuktu; but it +turned out otherwise. This boy was the first Hubilgan, also an incarnate +Buddha, an artful teller of fortunes and the successor of Pandita +Hutuktu. He was drunk all the time and a great card player, always +making side-splitting jokes that greatly offended the Lamas. + +That same evening I made the acquaintance of the second Hubilgan +who called on me, the real administrator of Zain Shabi, which is +an independent dominion subject directly to the Living Buddha. This +Hubilgan was a serious and ascetic man of thirty-two, well educated and +deeply learned in Mongol lore. He knew Russian and read much in that +language, being interested chiefly in the life and stories of other +peoples. He had a high respect for the creative genius of the American +people and said to me: + +"When you go to America, ask the Americans to come to us and lead us out +from the darkness that surrounds us. The Chinese and Russians will lead +us to destruction and only the Americans can save us." + +It is a deep satisfaction for me to carry out the request of this +influential Mongol, Hubilgan, and to urge his appeal to the American +people. Will you not save this honest, uncorrupted but dark, deceived +and oppressed people? They should not be allowed to perish, for within +their souls they carry a great store of strong moral forces. Make of +them a cultured people, believing in the verity of humankind; teach them +to use the wealth of their land; and the ancient people of Jenghiz Khan +will ever be your faithful friends. + +When I had sufficiently recovered, the Hutuktu invited me to travel with +him to Erdeni Dzu, to which I willingly agreed. On the following morning +a light and comfortable carriage was brought for me. Our trip lasted +five days, during which we visited Erdeni Dzu, Karakorum, Hoto-Zaidam +and Hara-Balgasun. All these are the ruins of monasteries and cities +erected by Jenghiz Khan and his successors, Ugadai Khan and Kublai +in the thirteenth century. Now only the remnants of walls and towers +remain, some large tombs and whole books of legends and stories. + +"Look at these tombs!" said the Hutuktu to me. "Here the son of Khan +Uyuk was buried. This young prince was bribed by the Chinese to kill his +father but was frustrated in his attempt by his own sister, who killed +him in her watchful care of her old father, the Emperor and Khan. There +is the tomb of Tsinilla, the beloved spouse of Khan Mangu. She left the +capital of China to go to Khara Bolgasun, where she fell in love with +the brave shepherd Damcharen, who overtook the wind on his steed and +who captured wild yaks and horses with his bare hands. The enraged Khan +ordered his unfaithful wife strangled but afterwards buried her with +imperial honors and frequently came to her tomb to weep for his lost +love." + +"And what happened to Damcharen?" I inquired. + +The Hutuktu himself did not know; but his old servant, the real archive +of legends, answered: + +"With the aid of ferocious Chahar brigands he fought with China for a +long time. It is, however, unknown how he died." + +Among the ruins the monks pray at certain fixed times and they also +search for sacred books and objects concealed or buried in the debris. +Recently they found here two Chinese rifles and two gold rings and big +bundles of old manuscripts tied with leather thongs. + +"Why did this region attract the powerful emperors and Khans who ruled +from the Pacific to the Adriatic?" I asked myself. Certainly not these +mountains and valleys covered with larch and birch, not these vast +sands, receding lakes and barren rocks. It seems that I found the +answer. + +The great emperors, remembering the vision of Jenghiz Khan, sought here +new revelations and predictions of his miraculous, majestic destiny, +surrounded by the divine honors, obeisance and hate. Where could they +come into touch with the gods, the good and bad spirits? Only there +where they abode. All the district of Zain with these ancient ruins is +just such a place. + +"On this mountain only such men can ascend as are born of the direct +line of Jenghiz Khan," the Pandita explained to me. "Half way up the +ordinary man suffocates and dies, if he ventures to go further. Recently +Mongolian hunters chased a pack of wolves up this mountain and, when +they came to this part of the mountainside, they all perished. There on +the slopes of the mountain lie the bones of eagles, big horned sheep and +the kabarga antelope, light and swift as the wind. There dwells the bad +demon who possesses the book of human destinies." + +"This is the answer," I thought. + +In the Western Caucasus I once saw a mountain between Soukhoum Kale and +Tuopsei where wolves, eagles and wild goats also perish, and where men +would likewise perish if they did not go on horseback through this zone. +There the earth breathes out carbonic acid gas through holes in the +mountainside, killing all animal life. The gas clings to the earth in a +layer about half a metre thick. Men on horseback pass above this and the +horses always hold their heads way up and snuff and whinny in fear until +they cross the dangerous zone. Here on the top of this mountain +where the bad demon peruses the book of human destinies is the same +phenomenon, and I realized the sacred fear of the Mongols as well as the +stern attraction of this place for the tall, almost gigantic descendants +of Jenghiz Khan. Their heads tower above the layers of poisonous gas, +so that they can reach the top of this mysterious and terrible mountain. +Also it is possible to explain this phenomenon geologically, because +here in this region is the southern edge of the coal deposits which are +the source of carbonic acid and swamp gases. + +Not far from the ruins in the lands of Hun Doptchin Djamtso there is +a small lake which sometimes burns with a red flame, terrifying the +Mongols and herds of horses. Naturally this lake is rich with legends. +Here a meteor formerly fell and sank far into the earth. In the hole +this lake appeared. Now, it seems, the inhabitants of the subterranean +passages, semi-man and semi-demon, are laboring to extract this "stone +of the sky" from its deep bed and it is setting the water on fire as it +rises and falls back in spite of their every effort. I did not see the +lake myself but a Russian colonist told me that it may be petroleum on +the lake that is fired either from the campfires of the shepherds or by +the blazing rays of the sun. + +At any rate all this makes it very easy to understand the attractions +for the great Mongol potentates. The strongest impression was produced +upon me by Karakorum, the place where the cruel and wise Jenghiz Khan +lived and laid his gigantic plans for overrunning all the west with +blood and for covering the east with a glory never before seen. Two +Karakorums were erected by Jenghiz Khan, one here near Tatsa Gol on the +Caravan Road and the other in Pamir, where the sad warriors buried the +greatest of human conquerors in the mausoleum built by five hundred +captives who were sacrificed to the spirit of the deceased when their +work was done. + +The warlike Pandita Hutuktu prayed on the ruins where the shades of +these potentates who had ruled half the world wandered, and his soul +longed for the chimerical exploits and for the glory of Jenghiz and +Tamerlane. + +On the return journey we were invited not far from Zain to visit a very +rich Mongol by the way. He had already prepared the yurtas suitable for +Princes, ornamented with rich carpets and silk draperies. The Hutuktu +accepted. We arranged ourselves on the soft pillows in the yurtas as the +Hutuktu blessed the Mongol, touching his head with his holy hand, and +received the hatyks. The host then had a whole sheep brought in to us, +boiled in a huge vessel. The Hutuktu carved off one hind leg and offered +it to me, while he reserved the other for himself. After this he gave a +large piece of meat to the smallest son of the host, which was the sign +that Pandita Hutuktu invited all to begin the feast. In a trice the +sheep was entirely carved or torn up and in the hands of the banqueters. +When the Hutuktu had thrown down by the brazier the white bones without +a trace of meat left on them, the host on his knees withdrew from the +fire a piece of sheepskin and ceremoniously offered it on both his hands +to the Hutuktu. Pandita began to clean off the wool and ashes with his +knife and, cutting it into thin strips, fell to eating this really tasty +course. It is the covering from just above the breast bone and is called +in Mongolian tarach or "arrow." When a sheep is skinned, this small +section is cut out and placed on the hot coals, where it is broiled very +slowly. Thus prepared it is considered the most dainty bit of the +whole animal and is always presented to the guest of honor. It is +not permissible to divide it, such is the strength of the custom and +ceremony. + +After dinner our host proposed a hunt for bighorns, a large herd of +which was known to graze in the mountains within less than a mile from +the yurtas. Horses with rich saddles and bridles were led up. All the +elaborate harness of the Hutuktu's mount was ornamented with red and +yellow bits of cloth as a mark of his rank. About fifty Mongol riders +galloped behind us. When we left our horses, we were placed behind +the rocks roughly three hundred paces apart and the Mongols began the +encircling movement around the mountain. After about half an hour I +noticed way up among the rocks something flash and soon made out a fine +bighorn jumping with tremendous springs from rock to rock, and behind +him a herd of some twenty odd head leaping like lightning over the +ground. I was vexed beyond words when it appeared that the Mongols had +made a mess of it and pushed the herd out to the side before having +completed their circle. But happily I was mistaken. Behind a rock right +ahead of the herd a Mongol sprang up and waved his hands. Only the big +leader was not frightened and kept right on past the unarmed Mongol +while all the rest of the herd swung suddenly round and rushed right +down upon me. I opened fire and dropped two of them. The Hutuktu also +brought down one as well as a musk antelope that came unexpectedly from +behind a rock hard by. The largest pair of horns weighed about thirty +pounds, but they were from a young sheep. + +The day following our return to Zain Shabi, as I was feeling quite +recovered, I decided to go on to Van Kure. At my leave-taking from +the Hutuktu I received a large hatyk from him together with warmest +expressions of thanks for the present I had given him on the first day +of our acquaintance. + +"It is a fine medicine!" he exclaimed. "After our trip I felt quite +exhausted but I took your medicine and am now quite rejuvenated. Many, +many thanks!" + +The poor chap had swallowed my osmiridium. To be sure it could not +harm him; but to have helped him was wonderful. Perhaps doctors in the +Occident may wish to try this new, harmless and very cheap remedy--only +eight pounds of it in the whole world--and I merely ask that they leave +me the patent rights for it for Mongolia, Barga, Sinkiang, Koko Nor and +all the other lands of Central Asia. + +An old Russian colonist went as guide for me. They gave me a big but +light and comfortable cart hitched and drawn in a marvelous way. A +straight pole four metres long was fastened athwart the front of the +shafts. On either side two riders took this pole across their saddle +pommels and galloped away with me across the plains. Behind us galloped +four other riders with four extra horses. + + +CHAPTER XXX + +ARRESTED! + + +About twelve miles from Zain we saw from a ridge a snakelike line of +riders crossing the valley, which detachment we met half an hour later +on the shore of a deep, swampy stream. The group consisted of Mongols, +Buriats and Tibetans armed with Russian rifles. At the head of the +column were two men, one of whom in a huge black Astrakhan and black +felt cape with red Caucasian cowl on his shoulders blocked my road and, +in a coarse, harsh voice, demanded of me: "Who are you, where are you +from and where are you going?" + +I gave also a laconic answer. They then said that they were a detachment +of troops from Baron Ungern under the command of Captain Vandaloff. "I +am Captain Bezrodnoff, military judge." + +Suddenly he laughed loudly. His insolent, stupid face did not please me +and, bowing to the officers, I ordered my riders to move. + +"Oh no!" he remonstrated, as he blocked the road again. "I cannot allow +you to go farther. I want to have a long and serious conversation with +you and you will have to come back to Zain for it." + +I protested and called attention to the letter of Colonel Kazagrandi, +only to hear Bezrodnoff answer with coldness: + +"This letter is a matter of Colonel Kazagrandi's and to bring you back +to Zain and talk with you is my affair. Now give me your weapon." + +But I could not yield to this demand, even though death were threatened. + +"Listen," I said. "Tell me frankly. Is yours really a detachment +fighting against the Boisheviki or is it a Red contingent?" + +"No, I assure you!" replied the Buriat officer Vandaloff, approaching +me. "We have already been fighting the Bolsheviki for three years." + +"Then I cannot hand you my weapon," I calmly replied. "I brought it from +Soviet Siberia, have had many fights with this faithful weapon and now +I am to be disarmed by White officers! It is an offence that I cannot +allow." + +With these words I threw my rifle and my Mauser into the stream. The +officers were confused. Bezrodnoff turned red with anger. + +"I freed you and myself from humiliation," I explained. + +Bezrodnoff in silence turned his horse, the whole detachment of three +hundred men passed immediately before me and only the last two riders +stopped, ordered my Mongols to turn my cart round and then fell in +behind my little group. So I was arrested! One of the horsemen behind me +was a Russian and he told me that Bezrodnoff carried with him many death +decrees. I was sure that mine was among them. + +Stupid, very stupid! What was the use of fighting one's way through Red +detachments, of being frozen and hungry, of almost perishing in Tibet +only to die from a bullet of one of Bezrodnoff's Mongols? For such a +pleasure it was not worth while to travel so long and so far! In every +Siberian "Cheka" I could have had this end so joyfully accorded me. + +When we arrived at Zain Shabi, my luggage was examined and Bezrodnoff +began to question me in minutest detail about the events in Uliassutai. +We talked about three hours, during which I tried to defend all the +officers of Uliassutai, maintaining that one must not trust only the +reports of Domojiroff. When our conversation was finished, the Captain +stood up and offered his apologies for detaining me in my journey. +Afterwards he presented me a fine Mauser with silver mountings on the +handle and said: + +"Your pride greatly pleased me. I beg you to receive this weapon as a +memento of me." + +The following morning I set out anew from Zain Shabi, having in my +pocket the laissez-passer of Bezrodnoff for his outposts. + + +CHAPTER XXXI + +TRAVELING BY "URGA" + + +Once more we traveled along the now known places, the mountain from +which I espied the detachment of Bezrodnoff, the stream into which I had +thrown my weapon, and soon all this lay behind us. At the first ourton +we were disappointed because we did not find horses there. In the yurtas +were only the host with two of his sons. I showed him my document and he +exclaimed: + +"Noyon has the right of 'urga.' Horses will be brought very soon." + +He jumped into his saddle, took two of my Mongols with him, providing +them and himself with long thin poles, four or five metres in length, +and fitted at the end with a loop of rope, and galloped away. My cart +moved behind them. We left the road, crossed the plain for an hour and +came upon a big herd of horses grazing there. The Mongol began to catch +a quota of them for us with his pole and noose or urga, when out of the +mountains nearby came galloping the owners of the herds. When the +old Mongol showed my papers to them, they submissively acquiesced and +substituted four of their men for those who had come with me thus far. +In this manner the Mongols travel, not along the ourton or station road +but directly from one herd to another, where the fresh horses are caught +and saddled and the new owners substituted for those of the last herd. +All the Mongols so effected by the right of urga try to finish their +task as rapidly as possible and gallop like mad for the nearest herd +in your general direction of travel to turn over their task to their +neighbor. Any traveler having this right of urga can catch horses +himself and, if there are no owners, can force the former ones to carry +on and leave the animals in the next herd he requisitions. But this +happens very rarely because the Mongol never likes to seek out his +animals in another's herd, as it always gives so many chances for +controversy. + +It was from this custom, according to one explanation, that the town +of Urga took its name among outsiders. By the Mongols themselves it is +always referred to as Ta Kure, "The Great Monastery." The reason the +Buriats and Russians, who were the first to trade into this region, +called it Urga was because it was the principal destination of all the +trading expeditions which crossed the plains by this old method or right +of travel. A second explanation is that the town lies in a "loop" whose +sides are formed by three mountain ridges, along one of which the River +Tola runs like the pole or stick of the familiar urga of the plains. + +Thanks to this unique ticket of urga I crossed quite untraveled +sections of Mongolia for about two hundred miles. It gave me the welcome +opportunity to observe the fauna of this part of the country. I saw many +huge herds of Mongolian antelopes running from five to six thousand, +many groups of bighorns, wapiti and kabarga antelopes. Sometimes small +herds of wild horses and wild asses flashed as a vision on the horizon. + +In one place I observed a big colony of marmots. All over an area of +several square miles their mounds were scattered with the holes leading +down to their runways below, the dwellings of the marmot. In and out +among these mounds the greyish-yellow or brown animals ran in all sizes +up to half that of an average dog. They ran heavily and the skin on +their fat bodies moved as though it were too big for them. The marmots +are splendid prospectors, always digging deep ditches, throwing out on +the surface all the stones. In many places I saw mounds the marmots had +made from copper ore and farther north some from minerals containing +wolfram and vanadium. Whenever the marmot is at the entrance of his +hole, he sits up straight on his hind legs and looks like a bit of wood, +a small stump or a stone. As soon as he spies a rider in the distance, +he watches him with great curiosity and begins whistling sharply. This +curiosity of the marmots is taken advantage of by the hunters, who sneak +up to their holes flourishing streamers of cloth on the tips of long +poles. The whole attention of the small animals is concentrated on this +small flag and only the bullet that takes his life explains to him the +reason for this previously unknown object. + +I saw a very exciting picture as I passed through a marmot colony near +the Orkhon River. There were thousands of holes here so that my Mongols +had to use all their skill to keep the horses from breaking their legs +in them. I noticed an eagle circling high overhead. All of a sudden he +dropped like a stone to the top of a mound, where he sat motionless as +a rock. The marmot in a few minutes ran out of his hole to a neighbor's +doorway. The eagle calmly jumped down from the top and with one wing +closed the entrance to the hole. The rodent heard the noise, turned back +and rushed to the attack, trying to break through to his hole where he +had evidently left his family. The struggle began. The eagle fought with +one free wing, one leg and his beak but did not withdraw the bar to the +entrance. The marmot jumped at the rapacious bird with great boldness +but soon fell from a blow on the head. Only then the eagle withdrew his +wing, approached the marmot, finished him off and with difficulty +lifted him in his talons to carry him away to the mountains for a tasty +luncheon. + +In the more barren places with only occasional spears of grass in the +plain another species of rodent lives, called imouran, about the size of +a squirrel. They have a coat the same color as the prairie and, running +about it like snakes, they collect the seeds that are blown across by +the wind and carry them down into their diminutive homes. The imouran +has a truly faithful friend, the yellow lark of the prairie with a brown +back and head. When he sees the imouran running across the plain, he +settles on his back, flaps his wings in balance and rides well this +swiftly galloping mount, who gaily flourishes his long shaggy tail. The +lark during his ride skilfully and quickly catches the parasites living +on the body of his friend, giving evidence of his enjoyment of his work +with a short agreeable song. The Mongols call the imouran "the steed of +the gay lark." The lark warns the imouran of the approach of eagles and +hawks with three sharp whistles the moment he sees the aerial brigand +and takes refuge himself behind a stone or in a small ditch. After this +signal no imouran will stick his head out of his hole until the danger +is past. Thus the gay lark and his steed live in kindly neighborliness. + +In other parts of Mongolia where there was very rich grass I saw another +type of rodent, which I had previously come across in Urianhai. It is +a gigantic black prairie rat with a short tail and lives in colonies +of from one to two hundred. He is interesting and unique as the most +skilful farmer among the animals in his preparation of his winter supply +of fodder. During the weeks when the grass is most succulent he actually +mows it down with swift jerky swings of his head, cutting about twenty +or thirty stalks with his sharp long front teeth. Then he allows his +grass to cure and later puts up his prepared hay in a most scientific +manner. First he makes a mound about a foot high. Through this he pushes +down into the ground four slanting stakes, converging toward the middle +of the pile, and binds them close over the surface of the hay with the +longest strands of grass, leaving the ends protruding enough for him +to add another foot to the height of the pile, when he again binds the +surface with more long strands--all this to keep his winter supply of +food from blowing away over the prairie. This stock he always locates +right at the door of his den to avoid long winter hauls. The horses and +camels are very fond of this small farmer's hay, because it is always +made from the most nutritious grass. The haycocks are so strongly made +that one can hardly kick them to pieces. + +Almost everywhere in Mongolia I met either single pairs or whole flocks +of the greyish-yellow prairie partridges, salga or "partridge swallow," +so called because they have long sharp tails resembling those of +swallows and because their flight also is a close copy of that of the +swallow. These birds are very tame or fearless, allowing men to come +within ten or fifteen paces of them; but, when they do break, they go +high and fly long distances without lighting, whistling all the time +quite like swallows. Their general markings are light grey and yellow, +though the males have pretty chocolate spots on the backs and wings, +while their legs and feet are heavily feathered. + +My opportunity to make these observations came from traveling +through unfrequented regions by the urga, which, however, had its +counterbalancing disadvantages. The Mongols carried me directly and +swiftly toward my destination, receiving with great satisfaction the +presents of Chinese dollars which I gave them. But after having made +about five thousand miles on my Cossack saddle that now lay behind me +on the cart all covered with dust like common merchandise, I rebelled +against being wracked and torn by the rough riding of the cart as it was +swung heedlessly over stones, hillocks and ditches by the wild horses +with their equally wild riders, bounding and cracking and holding +together only through its tenacity of purpose in demonstrating the +cosiness and attractiveness of a good Mongol equipage! All my bones +began to ache. Finally I groaned at every lunge and at last I suffered +a very sharp attack of ischias or sciatica in my wounded leg. At night +I could neither sleep, lie down nor sit with comfort and spent the whole +night pacing up and down the plain, listening to the loud snoring of +the inhabitants of the yurta. At times I had to fight the two huge black +dogs which attacked me. The following day I could endure the wracking +only until noon and was then forced to give up and lie down. The pain +was unbearable. I could not move my leg nor my back and finally fell +into a high fever. We were forced to stop and rest. I swallowed all +my stock of aspirin and quinine but without relief. Before me was a +sleepless night about which I could not think without weakening fear. We +had stopped in the yurta for guests by the side of a small monastery. My +Mongols invited the Lama doctor to visit me, who gave me two very bitter +powders and assured me I should be able to continue in the morning. I +soon felt a stimulated palpitation of the heart, after which the pain +became even sharper. Again I spent the night without any sleep but when +the sun arose the pain ceased instantly and, after an hour, I ordered +them to saddle me a horse, as I was afraid to continue further in the +cart. + +While the Mongols were catching the horses, there came to my tent +Colonel N. N. Philipoff, who told me that he denied all the accusations +that he and his brother and Poletika were Bolsheviki and that Bezrodnoff +allowed him to go to Van Kure to meet Baron Ungern, who was expected +there. Only Philipoff did not know that his Mongol guide was armed with +a bomb and that another Mongol had been sent on ahead with a letter to +Baron Ungern. He did not know that Poletika and his brothers were shot +at the same time in Zain Shabi. Philipoff was in a hurry and wanted to +reach Van Kure that day. I left an hour after him. + + +CHAPTER XXXII + +AN OLD FORTUNE TELLER + + +From this point we began traveling along the ourton road. In this region +the Mongols had very poor and exhausted horses, because they were forced +continuously to supply mounts to the numerous envoys of Daichin Van and +of Colonel Kazagrandi. We were compelled to spend the night at the last +ourton before Van Kure, where a stout old Mongol and his son kept the +station. After our supper he took the shoulder-blade of the sheep, which +had been carefully scraped clean of all the flesh, and, looking at me, +placed this bone in the coals with some incantations and said: + +"I want to tell your fortune. All my predictions come true." + +When the bone had been blackened he drew it out, blew off the ashes and +began to scrutinize the surface very closely and to look through it into +the fire. He continued his examination for a long time and then, with +fear in his face, placed the bone back in the coals. + +"What did you see?" I asked, laughing. + +"Be silent!" he whispered. "I made out horrible signs." + +He again took out the bone and began examining it all over, all the time +whispering prayers and making strange movements. In a very solemn quiet +voice he began his predictions. + +"Death in the form of a tall white man with red hair will stand behind +you and will watch you long and close. You will feel it and wait but +Death will withdraw. . . . Another white man will become your friend. +. . . Before the fourth day you will lose your acquaintances. They will +die by a long knife. I already see them being eaten by the dogs. Beware +of the man with a head like a saddle. He will strive for your death." + +For a long time after the fortune had been told we sat smoking and +drinking tea but still the old fellow looked at me only with fear. +Through my brain flashed the thought that thus must his companions in +prison look at one who is condemned to death. + +The next morning we left the fortune teller before the sun was up, and, +when we had made about fifteen miles, hove in sight of Van Kure. I found +Colonel Kazagrandi at his headquarters. He was a man of good family, +an experienced engineer and a splendid officer, who had distinguished +himself in the war at the defence of the island of Moon in the Baltic +and afterwards in the fight with the Bolsheviki on the Volga. Colonel +Kazagrandi offered me a bath in a real tub, which had its habitat in +the house of the president of the local Chamber of Commerce. As I was in +this house, a tall young captain entered. He had long curly red hair and +an unusually white face, though heavy and stolid, with large, steel-cold +eyes and with beautiful, tender, almost girlish lips. But in his eyes +there was such cold cruelty that it was quite unpleasant to look at his +otherwise fine face. When he left the room, our host told me that he was +Captain Veseloffsky, the adjutant of General Rezukhin, who was fighting +against the Bolsheviki in the north of Mongolia. They had just that day +arrived for a conference with Baron Ungern. + +After luncheon Colonel Kazagrandi invited me to his yurta and began +discussing events in western Mongolia, where the situation had become +very tense. + +"Do you know Dr. Gay?" Kazagrandi asked me. "You know he helped me +to form my detachment but Urga accuses him of being the agent of the +Soviets." + +I made all the defences I could for Gay. He had helped me and had been +exonerated by Kolchak. + +"Yes, yes, and I justified Gay in such a manner," said the Colonel, "but +Rezukhin, who has just arrived today, has brought letters of Gay's to +the Bolsheviki which were seized in transit. By order of Baron Ungern, +Gay and his family have today been sent to the headquarters of Rezukhin +and I fear that they will not reach this destination." + +"Why?" I asked. + +"They will be executed on the road!" answered Colonel Kazagrandi. + +"What are we to do?" I responded. "Gay cannot be a Bolshevik, because +he is too well educated and too clever for it." + +"I don't know; I don't know!" murmured the Colonel with a despondent +gesture. "Try to speak with Rezukhin." + +I decided to proceed at once to Rezukhin but just then Colonel Philipoff +entered and began talking about the errors being made in the training of +the soldiers. When I had donned my coat, another man came in. He was a +small sized officer with an old green Cossack cap with a visor, a torn +grey Mongol overcoat and with his right hand in a black sling tied +around his neck. It was General Rezukhin, to whom I was at once +introduced. During the conversation the General very politely and very +skilfully inquired about the lives of Philipoff and myself during the +last three years, joking and laughing with discretion and modesty. When +he soon took his leave, I availed myself of the chance and went out with +him. + +He listened very attentively and politely to me and afterwards, in his +quiet voice, said: + +"Dr. Gay is the agent of the Soviets, disguised as a White in order +the better to see, hear and know everything. We are surrounded by our +enemies. The Russian people are demoralized and will undertake any +treachery for money. Such is Gay. Anyway, what is the use of discussing +him further? He and his family are no longer alive. Today my men cut +them to pieces five kilometres from here." + +In consternation and fear I looked at the face of this small, dapper man +with such soft voice and courteous manners. In his eyes I read such hate +and tenacity that I understood at once the trembling respect of all the +officers whom I had seen in his presence. Afterwards in Urga I learned +more of this General Rezukhin distinguished by his absolute bravery and +boundless cruelty. He was the watchdog of Baron Ungern, ready to throw +himself into the fire and to spring at the throat of anyone his master +might indicate. + +Only four days then had elapsed before "my acquaintances" died "by a +long knife," so that one part of the prediction had been thus fulfilled. +And now I have to await Death's threat to me. The delay was not long. +Only two days later the Chief of the Asiatic Division of Cavalry +arrived--Baron Ungern von Sternberg. + + +CHAPTER XXXIII + +"DEATH FROM THE WHITE MAN WILL STAND BEHIND YOU" + + +"The terrible general, the Baron," arrived quite unexpectedly, unnoticed +by the outposts of Colonel Kazagrandi. After a talk with Kazagrandi the +Baron invited Colonel N. N. Philipoff and me into his presence. Colonel +Kazagrandi brought the word to me. I wanted to go at once but was +detained about half an hour by the Colonel, who then sped me with the +words: + +"Now God help you! Go!" + +It was a strange parting message, not reassuring and quite enigmatical. +I took my Mauser and also hid in the cuff of my coat my cyanide of +potassium. The Baron was quartered in the yurta of the military doctor. +When I entered the court, Captain Veseloffsky came up to me. He had a +Cossack sword and a revolver without its holster beneath his girdle. He +went into the yurta to report my arrival. + +"Come in," he said, as he emerged from the tent. + +At the entrance my eyes were struck with the sight of a pool of blood +that had not yet had time to drain down into the ground--an ominous +greeting that seemed to carry the very voice of one just gone before me. +I knocked. + +"Come in!" was the answer in a high tenor. As I passed the threshold, +a figure in a red silk Mongolian coat rushed at me with the spring of a +tiger, grabbed and shook my hand as though in flight across my path and +then fell prone on the bed at the side of the tent. + +"Tell me who you are! Hereabouts are many spies and agitators," he cried +out in an hysterical voice, as he fixed his eyes upon me. In one +moment I perceived his appearance and psychology. A small head on wide +shoulders; blonde hair in disorder; a reddish bristling moustache; a +skinny, exhausted face, like those on the old Byzantine ikons. Then +everything else faded from view save a big, protruding forehead +overhanging steely sharp eyes. These eyes were fixed upon me like those +of an animal from a cave. My observations lasted for but a flash but I +understood that before me was a very dangerous man ready for an instant +spring into irrevocable action. Though the danger was evident, I felt +the deepest offence. + +"Sit down," he snapped out in a hissing voice, as he pointed to a chair +and impatiently pulled at his moustache. I felt my anger rising through +my whole body and I said to him without taking the chair: + +"You have allowed yourself to offend me, Baron. My name is well enough +known so that you cannot thus indulge yourself in such epithets. You can +do with me as you wish, because force is on your side, but you cannot +compel me to speak with one who gives me offence." + +At these words of mine he swung his feet down off the bed and with +evident astonishment began to survey me, holding his breath and pulling +still at his moustache. Retaining my exterior calmness, I began to +glance indifferently around the yurta, and only then I noticed General +Rezukhin. I bowed to him and received his silent acknowledgment. After +that I swung my glance back to the Baron, who sat with bowed head and +closed eyes, from time to time rubbing his brow and mumbling to himself. + +Suddenly he stood up and sharply said, looking past and over me: + +"Go out! There is no need of more. . . ." + +I swung round and saw Captain Veseloffsky with his white, cold face. I +had not heard him enter. He did a formal "about face" and passed out of +the door. + +"'Death from the white man' has stood behind me," I thought; "but has it +quite left me?" + +The Baron stood thinking for some time and then began to speak in +jumbled, unfinished phrases. + +"I ask your pardon. . . . You must understand there are so many +traitors! Honest men have disappeared. I cannot trust anybody. All +names are false and assumed; documents are counterfeited. Eyes and +words deceive. . . . All is demoralized, insulted by Bolshevism. I +just ordered Colonel Philipoff cut down, he who called himself the +representative of the Russian White Organization. In the lining of his +garments were found two secret Bolshevik codes. . . . When my officer +flourished his sword over him, he exclaimed: 'Why do you kill me, +Tavarische?' I cannot trust anybody. . . ." + +He was silent and I also held my peace. + +"I beg your pardon!" he began anew. "I offended you; but I am not simply +a man, I am a leader of great forces and have in my head so much care, +sorrow and woe!" + +In his voice I felt there was mingled despair and sincerity. He frankly +put out his hand to me. Again silence. At last I answered: + +"What do you order me to do now, for I have neither counterfeit nor real +documents? But many of your officers know me and in Urga I can find many +who will testify that I could be neither agitator nor. . ." + +"No need, no need!" interrupted the Baron. "All is clear, all is +understood! I was in your soul and I know all. It is the truth which +Hutuktu Narabanchi has written about you. What can I do for you?" + +I explained how my friend and I had escaped from Soviet Russia in the +effort to reach our native land and how a group of Polish soldiers had +joined us in the hope of getting back to Poland; and I asked that help +be given us to reach the nearest port. + +"With pleasure, with pleasure. . . . I will help you all," he answered +excitedly. "I shall drive you to Urga in my motor car. Tomorrow we shall +start and there in Urga we shall talk about further arrangements." + +Taking my leave, I went out of the yurta. On arriving at my quarters, I +found Colonel Kazagrandi in great anxiety walking up and down my room. + +"Thanks be to God!" he exclaimed and crossed himself. + +His joy was very touching but at the same time I thought that the +Colonel could have taken much more active measures for the salvation of +his guest, if he had been so minded. The agitation of this day had +tired me and made me feel years older. When I looked in the mirror I +was certain there were more white hairs on my head. At night I could +not sleep for the flashing thoughts of the young, fine face of Colonel +Philipoff, the pool of blood, the cold eyes of Captain Veseloffsky, the +sound of Baron Ungern's voice with its tones of despair and woe, until +finally I sank into a heavy stupor. I was awakened by Baron Ungern who +came to ask pardon that he could not take me in his motor car, because +he was obliged to take Daichin Van with him. But he informed me that he +had left instructions to give me his own white camel and two Cossacks as +servants. I had no time to thank him before he rushed out of my room. + +Sleep then entirely deserted me, so I dressed and began smoking pipe +after pipe of tobacco, as I thought: "How much easier to fight the +Bolsheviki on the swamps of Seybi and to cross the snowy peaks of Ulan +Taiga, where the bad demons kill all the travelers they can! There +everything was simple and comprehensible, but here it is all a mad +nightmare, a dark and foreboding storm!" I felt some tragedy, some +horror in every movement of Baron Ungern, behind whom paced this silent, +white-faced Veseloffsky and Death. + + +CHAPTER XXXIV + +THE HORROR OF WAR! + + +At dawn of the following morning they led up the splendid white camel +for me and we moved away. My company consisted of the two Cossacks, two +Mongol soldiers and one Lama with two pack camels carrying the tent and +food. I still apprehended that the Baron had it in mind not to dispose +of me before my friends there in Van Kure but to prepare this journey +for me under the guise of which it would be so easy to do away with +me by the road. A bullet in the back and all would be finished. +Consequently I was momentarily ready to draw my revolver and defend +myself. I took care all the time to have the Cossacks either ahead of me +or at the side. About noon we heard the distant honk of a motor car and +soon saw Baron Ungern whizzing by us at full speed. With him were two +adjutants and Prince Daichin Van. The Baron greeted me very kindly and +shouted: + +"Shall see you again in Urga!" + +"Ah!" I thought, "evidently I shall reach Urga. So I can be at ease +during my trip, and in Urga I have many friends beside the presence +there of the bold Polish soldiers whom I had worked with in Uliassutai +and who had outdistanced me in this journey." + +After the meeting with the Baron my Cossacks became very attentive to +me and sought to distract me with stories. They told me about their +very severe struggles with the Bolsheviki in Transbaikalia and Mongolia, +about the battle with the Chinese near Urga, about finding communistic +passports on several Chinese soldiers from Moscow, about the bravery of +Baron Ungern and how he would sit at the campfire smoking and drinking +tea right on the battle line without ever being touched by a bullet. +At one fight seventy-four bullets entered his overcoat, saddle and +the boxes by his side and again left him untouched. This is one of +the reasons for his great influence over the Mongols. They related how +before the battle he had made a reconnaissance in Urga with only +one Cossack and on his way back had killed a Chinese officer and two +soldiers with his bamboo stick or tashur; how he had no outfit save one +change of linen and one extra pair of boots; how he was always calm and +jovial in battle and severe and morose in the rare days of peace; and +how he was everywhere his soldiers were fighting. + +I told them, in turn, of my escape from Siberia and with chatting thus +the day slipped by very quickly. Our camels trotted all the time, so +that instead of the ordinary eighteen to twenty miles per day we made +nearly fifty. My mount was the fastest of them all. He was a huge white +animal with a splendid thick mane and had been presented to Baron Ungern +by some Prince of Inner Mongolia with two black sables tied on the +bridle. He was a calm, strong, bold giant of the desert, on whose back +I felt myself as though perched on the tower of a building. Beyond the +Orkhon River we came across the first dead body of a Chinese soldier, +which lay face up and arms outstretched right in the middle of the road. +When we had crossed the Burgut Mountains, we entered the Tola River +valley, farther up which Urga is located. The road was strewn with the +overcoats, shirts, boots, caps and kettles which the Chinese had thrown +away in their flight; and marked by many of their dead. Further on the +road crossed a morass, where on either side lay great mounds of the dead +bodies of men, horses and camels with broken carts and military debris +of every sort. Here the Tibetans of Baron Ungern had cut up the escaping +Chinese baggage transport; and it was a strange and gloomy contrast to +see the piles of dead besides the effervescing awakening life of spring. +In every pool wild ducks of different kinds floated about; in the high +grass the cranes performed their weird dance of courtship; on the lakes +great flocks of swans and geese were swimming; through the swampy places +like spots of light moved the brilliantly colored pairs of the Mongolian +sacred bird, the turpan or "Lama goose"; on the higher dry places flocks +of wild turkey gamboled and fought as they fed; flocks of the salga +partridge whistled by; while on the mountain side not far away the +wolves lay basking and turning in the lazy warmth of the sun, whining +and occasionally barking like playful dogs. + +Nature knows only life. Death is for her but an episode whose traces +she rubs out with sand and snow or ornaments with luxuriant greenery +and brightly colored bushes and flowers. What matters it to Nature if a +mother at Chefoo or on the banks of the Yangtse offers her bowl of rice +with burning incense at some shrine and prays for the return of her son +that has fallen unknown for all time on the plains along the Tola, where +his bones will dry beneath the rays of Nature's dissipating fire and be +scattered by her winds over the sands of the prairie? It is splendid, +this indifference of Nature to death, and her greediness for life! + +On the fourth day we made the shores of the Tola well after nightfall. +We could not find the regular ford and I forced my camel to enter +the stream in the attempt to make a crossing without guidance. Very +fortunately I found a shallow, though somewhat miry, place and we got +over all right. This is something to be thankful for in fording a river +with a camel; because, when your mount finds the water too deep, coming +up around his neck, he does not strike out and swim like a horse will do +but just rolls over on his side and floats, which is vastly inconvenient +for his rider. Down by the river we pegged our tent. + +Fifteen miles further on we crossed a battlefield, where the third great +battle for the independence of Mongolia had been fought. Here the troops +of Baron Ungern clashed with six thousand Chinese moving down from +Kiakhta to the aid of Urga. The Chinese were completely defeated and +four thousand prisoners taken. However, these surrendered Chinese tried +to escape during the night. Baron Ungern sent the Transbaikal Cossacks +and Tibetans in pursuit of them and it was their work which we saw on +this field of death. There were still about fifteen hundred unburied and +as many more interred, according to the statements of our Cossacks, +who had participated in this battle. The killed showed terrible sword +wounds; everywhere equipment and other debris were scattered about. +The Mongols with their herds moved away from the neighborhood and their +place was taken by the wolves which hid behind every stone and in every +ditch as we passed. Packs of dogs that had become wild fought with the +wolves over the prey. + +At last we left this place of carnage to the cursed god of war. Soon we +approached a shallow, rapid stream, where the Mongols slipped from their +camels, took off their caps and began drinking. It was a sacred stream +which passed beside the abode of the Living Buddha. From this winding +valley we suddenly turned into another where a great mountain ridge +covered with dark, dense forest loomed up before us. + +"Holy Bogdo-Ol!" exclaimed the Lama. "The abode of the Gods which guard +our Living Buddha!" + +Bogdo-Ol is the huge knot which ties together here three mountain +chains: Gegyl from the southwest, Gangyn from the south, and Huntu from +the north. This mountain covered with virgin forest is the property of +the Living Buddha. The forests are full of nearly all the varieties +of animals found in Mongolia, but hunting is not allowed. Any Mongol +violating this law is condemned to death, while foreigners are deported. +Crossing the Bogdo-Ol is forbidden under penalty of death. This command +was transgressed by only one man, Baron Ungern, who crossed the mountain +with fifty Cossacks, penetrated to the palace of the Living Buddha, +where the Pontiff of Urga was being held under arrest by the Chinese, +and stole him. + + +CHAPTER XXXV + +IN THE CITY OF LIVING GODS, OF 30,000 BUDDHAS AND 60,000 MONKS + + +At last before our eyes the abode of the Living Buddha! At the foot of +Bogdo-Ol behind white walls rose a white Tibetan building covered with +greenish-blue tiles that glittered under the sunshine. It was richly set +among groves of trees dotted here and there with the fantastic roofs +of shrines and small palaces, while further from the mountain it was +connected by a long wooden bridge across the Tola with the city of +monks, sacred and revered throughout all the East as Ta Kure or Urga. +Here besides the Living Buddha live whole throngs of secondary miracle +workers, prophets, sorcerers and wonderful doctors. All these people +have divine origin and are honored as living gods. At the left on the +high plateau stands an old monastery with a huge, dark red tower, which +is known as the "Temple Lamas City," containing a gigantic bronze gilded +statue of Buddha sitting on the golden flower of the lotus; tens of +smaller temples, shrines, obo, open altars, towers for astrology and the +grey city of the Lamas consisting of single-storied houses and yurtas, +where about 60,000 monks of all ages and ranks dwell; schools, sacred +archives and libraries, the houses of Bandi and the inns for the honored +guests from China, Tibet, and the lands of the Buriat and Kalmuck. + +Down below the monastery is the foreign settlement where the Russian, +foreign and richest Chinese merchants live and where the multi-colored +and crowded oriental bazaar carries forward its bustling life. A +kilometre away the greyish enclosure of Maimachen surrounds the +remaining Chinese trading establishments, while farther on one sees a +long row of Russian private houses, a hospital, church, prison and, last +of all, the awkward four-storied red brick building that was formerly +the Russian Consulate. + +We were already within a short distance of the monastery, when I noticed +several Mongol soldiers in the mouth of a ravine nearby, dragging back +and concealing in the ravine three dead bodies. + +"What are they doing?" I asked. + +The Cossacks only smiled without answering. Suddenly they straightened +up with a sharp salute. Out of the ravine came a small, stocky Mongolian +pony with a short man in the saddle. As he passed us, I noticed the +epaulets of a colonel and the green cap with a visor. He examined me +with cold, colorless eyes from under dense brows. As he went on ahead, +he took off his cap and wiped the perspiration from his bald head. My +eyes were struck by the strange undulating line of his skull. It was the +man "with the head like a saddle," against whom I had been warned by the +old fortune teller at the last ourton outside Van Kure! + +"Who is this officer?" I inquired. + +Although he was already quite a distance in front of us, the Cossacks +whispered: "Colonel Sepailoff, Commandant of Urga City." + +Colonel Sepailoff, the darkest person on the canvas of Mongolian events! +Formerly a mechanician, afterwards a gendarme, he had gained quick +promotion under the Czar's regime. He was always nervously jerking and +wriggling his body and talking ceaselessly, making most unattractive +sounds in his throat and sputtering with saliva all over his lips, his +whole face often contracted with spasms. He was mad and Baron Ungern +twice appointed a commission of surgeons to examine him and ordered him +to rest in the hope he could rid the man of his evil genius. Undoubtedly +Sepailoff was a sadist. I heard afterwards that he himself executed +the condemned people, joking and singing as he did his work. Dark, +terrifying tales were current about him in Urga. He was a bloodhound, +fastening his victims with the jaws of death. All the glory of the +cruelty of Baron Ungern belonged to Sepailoff. Afterwards Baron Ungern +once told me in Urga that this Sepailoff annoyed him and that Sepailoff +could kill him just as well as others. Baron Ungern feared Sepailoff, +not as a man, but dominated by his own superstition, because Sepailoff +had found in Transbaikalia a witch doctor who predicted the death of the +Baron if he dismissed Sepailoff. Sepailoff knew no pardon for Bolshevik +nor for any one connected with the Bolsheviki in any way. The reason for +his vengeful spirit was that the Bolsheviki had tortured him in prison +and, after his escape, had killed all his family. He was now taking his +revenge. + +I put up with a Russian firm and was at once visited by my associates +from Uliassutai, who greeted me with great joy because they had been +much exercised about the events in Van Kure and Zain Shabi. When I had +bathed and spruced up, I went out with them on the street. We entered +the bazaar. The whole market was crowded. To the lively colored groups +of men buying, selling and shouting their wares, the bright streamers of +Chinese cloth, the strings of pearls, the earrings and bracelets gave an +air of endless festivity; while on another side buyers were feeling of +live sheep to see whether they were fat or not, the butcher was cutting +great pieces of mutton from the hanging carcasses and everywhere these +sons of the plain were joking and jesting. The Mongolian women in their +huge coiffures and heavy silver caps like saucers on their heads were +admiring the variegated silk ribbons and long chains of coral beads; an +imposing big Mongol attentively examined a small herd of splendid +horses and bargained with the Mongol zahachine or owner of the horses; a +skinny, quick, black Tibetan, who had come to Urga to pray to the Living +Buddha or, maybe, with a secret message from the other "God" in Lhasa, +squatted and bargained for an image of the Lotus Buddha carved in agate; +in another corner a big crowd of Mongols and Buriats had collected and +surrounded a Chinese merchant selling finely painted snuff-bottles of +glass, crystal, porcelain, amethyst, jade, agate and nephrite, for one +of which made of a greenish milky nephrite with regular brown veins +running through it and carved with a dragon winding itself around a bevy +of young damsels the merchant was demanding of his Mongol inquirers ten +young oxen; and everywhere Buriats in their long red coats and small +red caps embroidered with gold helped the Tartars in black overcoats +and black velvet caps on the back of their heads to weave the pattern of +this Oriental human tapestry. Lamas formed the common background for it +all, as they wandered about in their yellow and red robes, with capes +picturesquely thrown over their shoulders and caps of many forms, some +like yellow mushrooms, others like the red Phrygian bonnets or old +Greek helmets in red. They mingled with the crowd, chatting serenely and +counting their rosaries, telling fortunes for those who would hear but +chiefly searching out the rich Mongols whom they could cure or exploit +by fortune telling, predictions or other mysteries of a city of 60,000 +Lamas. Simultaneously religious and political espionage was being +carried out. Just at this time many Mongols were arriving from Inner +Mongolia and they were continuously surrounded by an invisible but +numerous network of watching Lamas. Over the buildings around floated +the Russian, Chinese and Mongolian national flags with a single one of +the Stars and Stripes above a small shop in the market; while over the +nearby tents and yurtas streamed the ribbons, the squares, the circles +and triangles of the princes and private persons afflicted or dying +from smallpox and leprosy. All were mingled and mixed in one bright mass +strongly lighted by the sun. Occasionally one saw the soldiers of Baron +Ungern rushing about in long blue coats; Mongols and Tibetans in red +coats with yellow epaulets bearing the swastika of Jenghiz Khan and +the initials of the Living Buddha; and Chinese soldiers from their +detachment in the Mongolian army. After the defeat of the Chinese army +two thousand of these braves petitioned the Living Buddha to enlist them +in his legions, swearing fealty and faith to him. They were accepted +and formed into two regiments bearing the old Chinese silver dragons on +their caps and shoulders. + +As we crossed this market, from around a corner came a big motor car +with the roar of a siren. There was Baron Ungern in the yellow silk +Mongolian coat with a blue girdle. He was going very fast but recognized +me at once, stopping and getting out to invite me to go with him to his +yurta. The Baron lived in a small, simply arranged yurta, set up in the +courtyard of a Chinese hong. He had his headquarters in two other yurtas +nearby, while his servants occupied one of the Chinese fang-tzu. When +I reminded him of his promise to help me to reach the open ports, the +General looked at me with his bright eyes and spoke in French: + +"My work here is coming to an end. In nine days I shall begin the war +with the Bolsheviki and shall go into the Transbaikal. I beg that you +will spend this time here. For many years I have lived without civilized +society. I am alone with my thoughts and I would like to have you know +them, speaking with me not as the 'bloody mad Baron,' as my enemies call +me, nor as the 'severe grandfather,' which my officers and soldiers call +me, but as an ordinary man who has sought much and has suffered even +more." + +The Baron reflected for some minutes and then continued: + +"I have thought about the further trip of your group and I shall arrange +everything for you, but I ask you to remain here these nine days." + +What was I to do? I agreed. The Baron shook my hand warmly and ordered +tea. + + +CHAPTER XXXVI + +A SON OF CRUSADERS AND PRIVATEERS + + +"Tell me about yourself and your trip," he urged. In response I related +all that I thought would interest him and he appeared quite excited over +my tale. + +"Now I shall tell you about myself, who and what I am! My name is +surrounded with such hate and fear that no one can judge what is the +truth and what is false, what is history and what myth. Some time you +will write about it, remembering your trip through Mongolia and your +sojourn at the yurta of the 'bloody General.'" + +He shut his eyes, smoking as he spoke, and tumbling out his sentences +without finishing them as though some one would prevent him from +phrasing them. + +"The family of Ungern von Sternberg is an old family, a mixture of +Germans with Hungarians--Huns from the time of Attila. My warlike +ancestors took part in all the European struggles. They participated +in the Crusades and one Ungern was killed under the walls of Jerusalem, +fighting under Richard Coeur de Lion. Even the tragic Crusade of the +Children was marked by the death of Ralph Ungern, eleven years old. +When the boldest warriors of the country were despatched to the eastern +border of the German Empire against the Slavs in the twelfth century, my +ancestor Arthur was among them, Baron Halsa Ungern Sternberg. Here these +border knights formed the order of Monk Knights or Teutons, which +with fire and sword spread Christianity among the pagan Lithuanians, +Esthonians, Latvians and Slavs. Since then the Teuton Order of Knights +has always had among its members representatives of our family. When the +Teuton Order perished in the Grunwald under the swords of the Polish and +Lithuanian troops, two Barons Ungern von Sternberg were killed there. +Our family was warlike and given to mysticism and asceticism. + +"During the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries several Barons von +Ungern had their castles in the lands of Latvia and Esthonia. Many +legends and tales lived after them. Heinrich Ungern von Sternberg, +called 'Ax,' was a wandering knight. The tournaments of France, England, +Spain and Italy knew his name and lance, which filled the hearts of his +opponents with fear. He fell at Cadiz 'neath the sword of a knight who +cleft both his helmet and his skull. Baron Ralph Ungern was a brigand +knight between Riga and Reval. Baron Peter Ungern had his castle on +the island of Dago in the Baltic Sea, where as a privateer he ruled the +merchantmen of his day. + +"In the beginning of the eighteenth century there was also a well-known +Baron Wilhelm Ungern, who was referred to as the 'brother of Satan' +because he was an alchemist. My grandfather was a privateer in the +Indian Ocean, taking his tribute from the English traders whose warships +could not catch him for several years. At last he was captured and +handed to the Russian Consul, who transported him to Russia where he was +sentenced to deportation to the Transbaikal. I am also a naval officer +but the Russo-Japanese War forced me to leave my regular profession to +join and fight with the Zabaikal Cossacks. I have spent all my life in +war or in the study and learning of Buddhism. My grandfather brought +Buddhism to us from India and my father and I accepted and professed it. +In Transbaikalia I tried to form the order of Military Buddhists for an +uncompromising fight against the depravity of revolution." + +He fell into silence and began drinking cup after cup of tea as strong +and black as coffee. + +"Depravity of revolution! . . . Has anyone ever thought of it besides +the French philosopher, Bergson, and the most learned Tashi Lama in +Tibet?" + +The grandson of the privateer, quoting scientific theories, works, the +names of scientists and writers, the Holy Bible and Buddhist books, +mixing together French, German, Russian and English, continued: + +"In the Buddhistic and ancient Christian books we read stern predictions +about the time when the war between the good and evil spirits must +begin. Then there must come the unknown 'Curse' which will conquer the +world, blot out culture, kill morality and destroy all the people. Its +weapon is revolution. During every revolution the previously experienced +intellect-creator will be replaced by the new rough force of the +destroyer. He will place and hold in the first rank the lower instincts +and desires. Man will be farther removed from the divine and the +spiritual. The Great War proved that humanity must progress upward +toward higher ideals; but then appeared that Curse which was seen and +felt by Christ, the Apostle John, Buddha, the first Christian martyrs, +Dante, Leonardo da Vinci, Goethe and Dostoyevsky. It appeared, turned +back the wheel of progress and blocked our road to the Divinity. +Revolution is an infectious disease and Europe making the treaty with +Moscow deceived itself and the other parts of the world. The Great +Spirit put at the threshold of our lives Karma, who knows neither anger +nor pardon. He will reckon the account, whose total will be famine, +destruction, the death of culture, of glory, of honor and of spirit, +the death of states and the death of peoples. I see already this horror, +this dark, mad destruction of humanity." + +The door of the yurta suddenly swung open and an adjutant snapped into a +position of attention and salute. + +"Why do you enter a room by force?" the General exclaimed in anger. + +"Your Excellency, our outpost on the border has caught a Bolshevik +reconnaissance party and brought them here." + +The Baron arose. His eyes sparkled and his face contracted with spasms. + +"Bring them in front of my yurta!" he ordered. + +All was forgotten--the inspired speech, the penetrating voice--all were +sunk in the austere order of the severe commander. The Baron put on his +cap, caught up the bamboo tashur which he always carried with him and +rushed from the yurta. I followed him out. There in front of the yurta +stood six Red soldiers surrounded by the Cossacks. + +The Baron stopped and glared sharply at them for several minutes. In his +face one could see the strong play of his thoughts. Afterwards he turned +away from them, sat down on the doorstep of the Chinese house and for a +long time was buried in thought. Then he rose, walked over to them and, +with an evident show of decisiveness in his movements, touched all the +prisoners on the shoulder with his tashur and said: "You to the left and +you to the right!" as he divided the squad into two sections, four on +the right and two on the left. + +"Search those two! They must be commissars!" commanded the Baron and, +turning to the other four, asked: "Are you peasants mobilized by the +Bolsheviki?" + +"Just so, Your Excellency!" cried the frightened soldiers. + +"Go to the Commandant and tell him that I have ordered you to be +enlisted in my troops!" + +On the two to the left they found passports of Commissars of the +Communist Political Department. The General knitted his brows and slowly +pronounced the following: + +"Beat them to death with sticks!" + +He turned and entered the yurta. After this our conversation did not +flow readily and so I left the Baron to himself. + +After dinner in the Russian firm where I was staying some of Ungern's +officers came in. We were chatting animatedly when suddenly we heard the +horn of an automobile, which instantly threw the officers into silence. + +"The General is passing somewhere near," one of them remarked in a +strangely altered voice. + +Our interrupted conversation was soon resumed but not for long. The +clerk of the firm came running into the room and exclaimed: "The Baron!" + +He entered the door but stopped on the threshold. The lamps had not yet +been lighted and it was getting dark inside, but the Baron instantly +recognized us all, approached and kissed the hand of the hostess, +greeted everyone very cordially and, accepting the cup of tea offered +him, drew up to the table to drink. Soon he spoke: + +"I want to steal your guest," he said to the hostess and then, turning +to me, asked: "Do you want to go for a motor ride? I shall show you the +city and the environs." + +Donning my coat, I followed my established custom and slipped my +revolver into it, at which the Baron laughed. + +"Leave that trash behind! Here you are in safety. Besides you must +remember the prediction of Narabanchi Hutuktu that Fortune will ever be +with you." + +"All right," I answered, also with a laugh. "I remember very well this +prediction. Only I do not know what the Hutuktu thinks 'Fortune' means +for me. Maybe it is death like the rest after my hard, long trip, and I +must confess that I prefer to travel farther and am not ready to die." + +We went out to the gate where the big Fiat stood with its intruding +great lights. The chauffeur officer sat at the wheel like a statue and +remained at salute all the time we were entering and seating ourselves. + +"To the wireless station!" commanded the Baron. + +We veritably leapt forward. The city swarmed, as earlier, with the +Oriental throng, but its appearance now was even more strange and +miraculous. In among the noisy crowd Mongol, Buriat and Tibetan riders +threaded swiftly; caravans of camels solemnly raised their heads as we +passed; the wooden wheels of the Mongol carts screamed in pain; and all +was illumined by splendid great arc lights from the electric station +which Baron Ungern had ordered erected immediately after the capture +of Urga, together with a telephone system and wireless station. He also +ordered his men to clean and disinfect the city which had probably not +felt the broom since the days of Jenghiz Khan. He arranged an auto-bus +traffic between different parts of the city; built bridges over the Tola +and Orkhon; published a newspaper; arranged a veterinary laboratory +and hospitals; re-opened the schools; protected commerce, mercilessly +hanging Russian and Mongolian soldiers for pillaging Chinese firms. + +In one of these cases his Commandant arrested two Cossacks and a Mongol +soldier who had stolen brandy from one of the Chinese shops and brought +them before him. He immediately bundled them all into his car, drove off +to the shop, delivered the brandy back to the proprietor and as promptly +ordered the Mongol to hang one of the Russians to the big gate of the +compound. With this one swung he commanded: "Now hang the other!" and +this had only just been accomplished when he turned to the Commandant +and ordered him to hang the Mongol beside the other two. That seemed +expeditious and just enough until the Chinese proprietor came in dire +distress to the Baron and plead with him: + +"General Baron! General Baron! Please take those men down from my +gateway, for no one will enter my shop!" + +After the commercial quarter was flashed past our eyes, we entered the +Russian settlement across a small river. Several Russian soldiers and +four very spruce-looking Mongolian women stood on the bridge as we +passed. The soldiers snapped to salute like immobile statues and fixed +their eyes on the severe face of their Commander. The women first began +to run and shift about and then, infected by the discipline and order +of events, swung their hands up to salute and stood as immobile as their +northern swains. The Baron looked at me and laughed: + +"You see the discipline! Even the Mongolian women salute me." + +Soon we were out on the plain with the car going like an arrow, with the +wind whistling and tossing the folds of our coats and caps. But Baron +Ungern, sitting with closed eyes, repeated: "Faster! Faster!" For a long +time we were both silent. + +"And yesterday I beat my adjutant for rushing into my yurta and +interrupting my story," he said. + +"You can finish it now," I answered. + +"And are you not bored by it? Well, there isn't much left and this +happens to be the most interesting. I was telling you that I wanted +to found an order of military Buddhists in Russia. For what? For +the protection of the processes of evolution of humanity and for the +struggle against revolution, because I am certain that evolution leads +to the Divinity and revolution to bestiality. But I worked in Russia! +In Russia, where the peasants are rough, untutored, wild and constantly +angry, hating everybody and everything without understanding why. They +are suspicious and materialistic, having no sacred ideals. Russian +intelligents live among imaginary ideals without realities. They have a +strong capacity for criticising everything but they lack creative power. +Also they have no will power, only the capacity for talking and talking. +With the peasants, they cannot like anything or anybody. Their love and +feelings are imaginary. Their thoughts and sentiments pass without trace +like futile words. My companions, therefore, soon began to violate the +regulations of the Order. Then I introduced the condition of celibacy, +the entire negation of woman, of the comforts of life, of superfluities, +according to the teachings of the Yellow Faith; and, in order that the +Russian might be able to live down his physical nature, I introduced the +limitless use of alcohol, hasheesh and opium. Now for alcohol I hang +my officers and soldiers; then we drank to the 'white fever,' delirium +tremens. I could not organize the Order but I gathered round me +and developed three hundred men wholly bold and entirely ferocious. +Afterward they were heroes in the war with Germany and later in the +fight against the Bolsheviki, but now only a few remain." + +"The wireless, Excellency!" reported the chauffeur. + +"Turn in there!" ordered the General. + +On the top of a flat hill stood the big, powerful radio station which +had been partially destroyed by the retreating Chinese but reconstructed +by the engineers of Baron Ungern. The General perused the telegrams and +handed them to me. They were from Moscow, Chita, Vladivostok and Peking. +On a separate yellow sheet were the code messages, which the Baron +slipped into his pocket as he said to me: + +"They are from my agents, who are stationed in Chita, Irkutsk, Harbin +and Vladivostok. They are all Jews, very skilled and very bold men, +friends of mine all. I have also one Jewish officer, Vulfovitch, who +commands my right flank. He is as ferocious as Satan but clever and +brave. . . . Now we shall fly into space." + +Once more we rushed away, sinking into the darkness of night. It was a +wild ride. The car bounded over small stones and ditches, even taking +narrow streamlets, as the skilled chauffeur only seemed to guide it +round the larger rocks. On the plain, as we sped by, I noticed several +times small bright flashes of fire which lasted but for a second and +then were extinguished. + +"The eyes of wolves," smiled my companion. "We have fed them to satiety +from the flesh of ourselves and our enemies!" he quietly interpolated, +as he turned to continue his confession of faith. + +"During the War we saw the gradual corruption of the Russian army and +foresaw the treachery of Russia to the Allies as well as the approaching +danger of revolution. To counteract this latter a plan was formed to +join together all the Mongolian peoples which had not forgotten their +ancient faiths and customs into one Asiatic State, consisting of +autonomous tribal units, under the moral and legislative leadership of +China, the country of loftiest and most ancient culture. Into this State +must come the Chinese, Mongols, Tibetans, Afghans, the Mongol tribes of +Turkestan, Tartars, Buriats, Kirghiz and Kalmucks. This State must +be strong, physically and morally, and must erect a barrier against +revolution and carefully preserve its own spirit, philosophy and +individual policy. If humanity, mad and corrupted, continues to threaten +the Divine Spirit in mankind, to spread blood and to obstruct moral +development, the Asiatic State must terminate this movement decisively +and establish a permanent, firm peace. This propaganda even during the +War made splendid progress among the Turkomans, Kirghiz, Buriats and +Mongols. . . . 'Stop!' suddenly shouted the Baron." + +The car pulled up with a jerk. The General jumped out and called me to +follow. We started walking over the prairie and the Baron kept bending +down all the time as though he were looking for something on the ground. + +"Ah!" he murmured at last, "He has gone away. . . ." + +I looked at him in amazement. + +"A rich Mongol formerly had his yurta here. He was the outfitter for the +Russian merchant, Noskoff. Noskoff was a ferocious man as shown by the +name the Mongols gave him--'Satan.' He used to have his Mongol debtors +beaten or imprisoned through the instrumentality of the Chinese +authorities. He ruined this Mongol, who lost everything and escaped to +a place thirty miles away; but Noskoff found him there, took all that he +had left of cattle and horses and left the Mongol and his family to die +of hunger. When I captured Urga, this Mongol appeared and brought with +him thirty other Mongol families similarly ruined by Noskoff. They +demanded his death. . . . So I hung 'Satan' . . ." + +Anew the motor car was rushing along, sweeping a great circle on the +prairie, and anew Baron Ungern with his sharp, nervous voice carried his +thoughts round the whole circumference of Asian life. + +"Russia turned traitor to France, England and America, signed the +Brest-Litovsk Treaty and ushered in a reign of chaos. We then decided +to mobilize Asia against Germany. Our envoys penetrated Mongolia, Tibet, +Turkestan and China. At this time the Bolsheviki began to kill all the +Russian officers and we were forced to open civil war against them, +giving up our Pan-Asiatic plans; but we hope later to awake all Asia +and with their help to bring peace and God back to earth. I want to feel +that I have helped this idea by the liberation of Mongolia." + +He became silent and thought for a moment. + +"But some of my associates in the movement do not like me because of +my atrocities and severity," he remarked in a sad voice. "They cannot +understand as yet that we are not fighting a political party but a sect +of murderers of all contemporary spiritual culture. Why do the Italians +execute the 'Black Hand' gang? Why are the Americans electrocuting +anarchistic bomb throwers? and I am not allowed to rid the world of +those who would kill the soul of the people? I, a Teuton, descendant of +crusaders and privateers, I recognize only death for murderers! . . . +Return!" he commanded the chauffeur. + +An hour and a half later we saw the electric lights of Urga. + + +CHAPTER XXXVII + +THE CAMP OF MARTYRS + + +Near the entrance to the town, a motor car stood before a small house. + +"What does that mean?" exclaimed the Baron. "Go over there!" + +Our car drew up beside the other. The house door opened sharply, several +officers rushed out and tried to hide. + +"Stand!" commanded the General. "Go back inside." They obeyed and he +entered after them, leaning on his tashur. As the door remained open, I +could see and hear everything. + +"Woe to them!" whispered the chauffeur. "Our officers knew that the +Baron had gone out of the town with me, which means always a long +journey, and must have decided to have a good time. He will order them +beaten to death with sticks." + +I could see the end of the table covered with bottles and tinned things. +At the side two young women were seated, who sprang up at the +appearance of the General. I could hear the hoarse voice of Baron Ungern +pronouncing sharp, short, stern phrases. + +"Your native land is perishing. . . . The shame of it is upon all you +Russians . . . and you cannot understand it . . . nor feel it. . . . You +need wine and women. . . . Scoundrels! Brutes! . . . One hundred fifty +tashur for every man of you." + +The voice fell to a whisper. + +"And you, Mesdames, do you not realize the ruin of your people? No? For +you it is of no moment. And have you no feeling for your husbands at +the front who may even now be killed? You are not women. . . . I honor +woman, who feels more deeply and strongly than man; but you are not +women! . . . Listen to me, Mesdames. Once more and I will hang +you. . . ." + +He came back to the car and himself sounded the horn several times. +Immediately Mongol horsemen galloped up. + +"Take these men to the Commandant. I will send my orders later." + +On the way to the Baron's yurta we were silent. He was excited and +breathed heavily, lighting cigarette after cigarette and throwing them +aside after but a single puff or two. + +"Take supper with me," he proposed. + +He also invited his Chief of Staff, a very retiring, oppressed but +splendidly educated man. The servants spread a Chinese hot course for +us followed by cold meat and fruit compote from California with +the inevitable tea. We ate with chopsticks. The Baron was greatly +distraught. + +Very cautiously I began speaking of the offending officers and tried to +justify their actions by the extremely trying circumstances under which +they were living. + +"They are rotten through and through, demoralized, sunk into the +depths," murmured the General. + +The Chief of Staff helped me out and at last the Baron directed him to +telephone the Commandant to release these gentlemen. + +The following day I spent with my friends, walking a great deal about +the streets and watching their busy life. The great energy of the Baron +demanded constant nervous activity from himself and every one round him. +He was everywhere, seeing everything but never, interfering with the +work of his subordinate administrators. Every one was at work. + +In the evening I was invited by the Chief of Staff to his quarters, +where I met many intelligent officers. I related again the story of my +trip and we were all chatting along animatedly when suddenly Colonel +Sepailoff entered, singing to himself. All the others at once became +silent and one by one under various pretexts they slipped out. He handed +our host some papers and, turning to us, said: + +"I shall send you for supper a splendid fish pie and some hot tomato +soup." + +As he left, my host clasped his head in desperation and said: + +"With such scum of the earth are we now forced after this revolution to +work!" + +A few minutes later a soldier from Sepailoff brought us a tureen full +of soup and the fish pie. As the soldier bent over the table to set the +dishes down, the Chief motioned me with his eyes and slipped to me the +words: "Notice his face." + +When the man went out, my host sat attentively listening until the +sounds of the man's steps ceased. + +"He is Sepailoff's executioner who hangs and strangles the unfortunate +condemned ones." + +Then, to my amazement, he began to pour out the soup on the ground +beside the brazier and, going out of the yurta, threw the pie over the +fence. + +"It is Sepailoff's feast and, though it may be very tasty, it may +also be poison. In Sepailoff's house it is dangerous to eat or drink +anything." + +Distinctly oppressed by these doings, I returned to my house. My host +was not yet asleep and met me with a frightened look. My friends were +also there. + +"God be thanked!" they all exclaimed. "Has nothing happened to you?" + +"What is the matter?" I asked. + +"You see," began the host, "after your departure a soldier came from +Sepailoff and took your luggage, saying that you had sent him for +it; but we knew what it meant--that they would first search it and +afterwards. . . ." + +I at once understood the danger. Sepailoff could place anything he +wanted in my luggage and afterwards accuse me. My old friend, the +agronome, and I started at once for Sepailoff's, where I left him at the +door while I went in and was met by the same soldier who had brought the +supper to us. Sepailoff received me immediately. In answer to my protest +he said that it was a mistake and, asking me to wait for a moment, went +out. I waited five, ten, fifteen minutes but nobody came. I knocked on +the door but no one answered me. Then I decided to go to Baron Ungern +and started for the exit. The door was locked. Then I tried the other +door and found that also locked. I had been trapped! I wanted at once to +whistle to my friend but just then noticed a telephone on the wall +and called up Baron Ungern. In a few minutes he appeared together with +Sepailoff. + +"What is this?" he asked Sepailoff in a severe, threatening voice; and, +without waiting for an answer, struck him a blow with his tashur that +sent him to the floor. + +We went out and the General ordered my luggage produced. Then he brought +me to his own yurta. + +"Live here, now," he said. "I am very glad of this accident," he +remarked with a smile, "for now I can say all that I want to." + +This drew from me the question: + +"May I describe all that I have heard and seen here?" + +He thought a moment before replying: "Give me your notebook." + +I handed him the album with my sketches of the trip and he wrote +therein: "After my death, Baron Ungern." + +"But I am older than you and I shall die before you," I remarked. + +He shut his eyes, bowed his head and whispered: + +"Oh, no! One hundred thirty days yet and it is finished; then . . . +Nirvana! How wearied I am with sorrow, woe and hate!" + +We were silent for a long time. I felt that I had now a mortal enemy +in Colonel Sepailoff and that I should get out of Urga at the earliest +possible moment. It was two o'clock at night. Suddenly Baron Ungern +stood up. + +"Let us go to the great, good Buddha," he said with a countenance held +in deep thought and with eyes aflame, his whole face contracted by a +mournful, bitter smile. He ordered the car brought. + +Thus lived this camp of martyrs, refugees pursued by events to their +tryst with Death, driven on by the hate and contempt of this offspring +of Teutons and privateers! And he, martyring them, knew neither day nor +night of peace. Fired by impelling, poisonous thoughts, he tormented +himself with the pains of a Titan, knowing that every day in this +shortening chain of one hundred thirty links brought him nearer to the +precipice called "Death." + + +CHAPTER XXXVIII + +BEFORE THE FACE OF BUDDHA + + +As we came to the monastery we left the automobile and dipped into the +labyrinth of narrow alleyways until at last we were before the greatest +temple of Urga with the Tibetan walls and windows and its pretentious +Chinese roof. A single lantern burned at the entrance. The heavy gate +with the bronze and iron trimmings was shut. When the General struck the +big brass gong hanging by the gate, frightened monks began running up +from all directions and, seeing the "General Baron," fell to the earth +in fear of raising their heads. + +"Get up," said the Baron, "and let us into the Temple!" + +The inside was like that of all Lama temples, the same multi-colored +flags with the prayers, symbolic signs and the images of holy saints; +the big bands of silk cloth hanging from the ceiling; the images of the +gods and goddesses. On both sides of the approach to the altar were the +low red benches for the Lamas and choir. On the altar small lamps threw +their rays on the gold and silver vessels and candlesticks. Behind it +hung a heavy yellow silk curtain with Tibetan inscriptions. The Lamas +drew the curtain aside. Out of the dim light from the flickering lamps +gradually appeared the great gilded statue of Buddha seated in the +Golden Lotus. The face of the god was indifferent and calm with only a +soft gleam of light animating it. On either side he was guarded by many +thousands of lesser Buddhas brought by the faithful as offerings in +prayer. The Baron struck the gong to attract Great Buddha's attention to +his prayer and threw a handful of coins into the large bronze bowl. And +then this scion of crusaders who had read all the philosophers of the +West, closed his eyes, placed his hands together before his face and +prayed. I noticed a black rosary on his left wrist. He prayed about ten +minutes. Afterwards he led me to the other end of the monastery and, +during our passage, said to me: + +"I do not like this temple. It is new, erected by the Lamas when the +Living Buddha became blind. I do not find on the face of the golden +Buddha either tears, hopes, distress or thanks of the people. They have +not yet had time to leave these traces on the face of the god. We shall +go now to the old Shrine of Prophecies." + +This was a small building, blackened with age and resembling a tower +with a plain round roof. The doors stood open. At both sides of the door +were prayer wheels ready to be spun; over it a slab of copper with the +signs of the zodiac. Inside two monks, who were intoning the sacred +sutras, did not lift their eyes as we entered. The General approached +them and said: + +"Cast the dice for the number of my days!" + +The priests brought two bowls with many dice therein and rolled them +out on their low table. The Baron looked and reckoned with them the sum +before he spoke: + +"One hundred thirty! Again one hundred thirty!" + +Approaching the altar carrying an ancient stone statue of Buddha brought +all the way from India, he again prayed. As day dawned, we wandered out +through the monastery, visited all the temples and shrines, the museum +of the medical school, the astrological tower and then the court where +the Bandi and young Lamas have their daily morning wrestling exercises. +In other places the Lamas were practising with the bow and arrow. Some +of the higher Lamas feasted us with hot mutton, tea and wild onions. +After we returned to the yurta I tried to sleep but in vain. Too many +different questions were troubling me. "Where am I? In what epoch am +I living?" I knew not but I dimly felt the unseen touch of some great +idea, some enormous plan, some indescribable human woe. + +After our noon meal the General said he wanted to introduce me to the +Living Buddha. It is so difficult to secure audience with the Living +Buddha that I was very glad to have this opportunity offered me. +Our auto soon drew up at the gate of the red and white striped wall +surrounding the palace of the god. Two hundred Lamas in yellow and red +robes rushed to greet the arriving "Chiang Chun," General, with the +low-toned, respectful whisper "Khan! God of War!" As a regiment of +formal ushers they led us to a spacious great hall softened by its +semi-darkness. Heavy carved doors opened to the interior parts of the +palace. In the depths of the hall stood a dais with the throne covered +with yellow silk cushions. The back of the throne was red inside a +gold framing; at either side stood yellow silk screens set in highly +ornamented frames of black Chinese wood; while against the walls at +either side of the throne stood glass cases filled with varied objects +from China, Japan, India and Russia. I noticed also among them a pair of +exquisite Marquis and Marquises in the fine porcelain of Sevres. Before +the throne stood a long, low table at which eight noble Mongols were +seated, their chairman, a highly esteemed old man with a clever, +energetic face and with large penetrating eyes. His appearance reminded +me of the authentic wooden images of the Buddhist holymen with eyes +of precious stones which I saw at the Tokyo Imperial Museum in the +department devoted to Buddhism, where the Japanese show the ancient +statues of Amida, Daunichi-Buddha, the Goddess Kwannon and the jolly old +Hotei. + +This man was the Hutuktu Jahantsi, Chairman of the Mongolian Council of +Ministers, and honored and revered far beyond the bournes of Mongolia. +The others were the Ministers--Khans and the Highest Princes of Khalkha. +Jahantsi Hutuktu invited Baron Ungern to the place at his side, while +they brought in a European chair for me. Baron Ungern announced to the +Council of Ministers through an interpreter that he would leave Mongolia +in a few days and urged them to protect the freedom won for the lands +inhabited by the successors of Jenghiz Khan, whose soul still lives +and calls upon the Mongols to become anew a powerful people and reunite +again into one great Mid-Asiatic State all the Asian kingdoms he had +ruled. + +The General rose and all the others followed him. He took leave of each +one separately and sternly. Only before Jahantsi Lama he bent low while +the Hutuktu placed his hands on the Baron's head and blessed him. From +the Council Chamber we passed at once to the Russian style house which +is the personal dwelling of the Living Buddha. The house was wholly +surrounded by a crowd of red and yellow Lamas; servants, councilors of +Bogdo, officials, fortune tellers, doctors and favorites. From the front +entrance stretched a long red rope whose outer end was thrown over the +wall beside the gate. Crowds of pilgrims crawling up on their knees +touch this end of the rope outside the gate and hand the monk a silken +hatyk or a bit of silver. This touching of the rope whose inner end is +in the hand of the Bogdo establishes direct communication with the holy, +incarnated Living God. A current of blessing is supposed to flow through +this cable of camel's wool and horse hair. Any Mongol who has touched +the mystic rope receives and wears about his neck a red band as the sign +of his accomplished pilgrimage. + +I had heard very much about the Bogdo Khan before this opportunity +to see him. I had heard of his love of alcohol, which had brought on +blindness, about his leaning toward exterior western culture and about +his wife drinking deep with him and receiving in his name numerous +delegations and envoys. + +In the room which the Bogdo used as his private study, where two Lama +secretaries watched day and night over the chest that contained his +great seals, there was the severest simplicity. On a low, plain, Chinese +lacquered table lay his writing implements, a case of seals given by +the Chinese Government and by the Dalai Lama and wrapped in a cloth of +yellow silk. Nearby was a low easy chair, a bronze brazier with an +iron stovepipe leading up from it; on the walls were the signs of the +swastika, Tibetan and Mongolian inscriptions; behind the easy chair a +small altar with a golden statue of Buddha before which two tallow lamps +were burning; the floor was covered with a thick yellow carpet. + +When we entered, only the two Lama secretaries were there, for the +Living Buddha was in the small private shrine in an adjoining chamber, +where no one is allowed to enter save the Bogdo Khan himself and one +Lama, Kanpo-Gelong, who cares for the temple arrangements and assists +the Living Buddha during his prayers of solitude. The secretary told +us that the Bogdo had been greatly excited this morning. At noon he had +entered his shrine. For a long time the voice of the head of the Yellow +Faith was heard in earnest prayer and after his another unknown voice +came clearly forth. In the shrine had taken place a conversation between +the Buddha on earth and the Buddha of heaven--thus the Lamas phrased it +to us. + +"Let us wait a little," the Baron proposed. "Perhaps he will soon come +out." + +As we waited the General began telling me about Jahantsi Lama, saying +that, when Jahantsi is calm, he is an ordinary man but, when he is +disturbed and thinks very deeply, a nimbus appears about his head. + +After half an hour the Lama secretaries suddenly showed signs of deep +fear and began listening closely by the entrance to the shrine. Shortly +they fell on their faces on the ground. The door slowly opened and there +entered the Emperor of Mongolia, the Living Buddha, His Holiness Bogdo +Djebtsung Damba Hutuktu, Khan of Outer Mongolia. He was a stout old man +with a heavy shaven face resembling those of the Cardinals of Rome. He +was dressed in the yellow silken Mongolian coat with a black binding. +The eyes of the blind man stood widely open. Fear and amazement were +pictured in them. He lowered himself heavily into the easy chair and +whispered: "Write!" + +A secretary immediately took paper and a Chinese pen as the Bogdo began +to dictate his vision, very complicated and far from clear. He finished +with the following words: + +"This I, Bogdo Hutuktu Khan, saw, speaking with the great wise Buddha, +surrounded by the good and evil spirits. Wise Lamas, Hutuktus, Kanpos, +Marambas and Holy Gheghens, give the answer to my vision!" + +As he finished, he wiped the perspiration from his head and asked who +were present. + +"Khan Chiang Chin Baron Ungern and a stranger," one of the secretaries +answered on his knees. + +The General presented me to the Bogdo, who bowed his head as a sign of +greeting. They began speaking together in low tones. Through the open +door I saw a part of the shrine. I made out a big table with a heap of +books on it, some open and others lying on the floor below; a brazier +with the red charcoal in it; a basket containing the shoulder blades and +entrails of sheep for telling fortunes. Soon the Baron rose and bowed +before the Bogdo. The Tibetan placed his hands on the Baron's head and +whispered a prayer. Then he took from his own neck a heavy ikon and hung +it around that of the Baron. + +"You will not die but you will be incarnated in the highest form of +being. Remember that, Incarnated God of War, Khan of grateful Mongolia!" +I understood that the Living Buddha blessed the "Bloody General" before +death. + + +During the next two days I had the opportunity to visit the Living +Buddha three times together with a friend of the Bogdo, the Buriat +Prince Djam Bolon. I shall describe these visits in Part IV. + +Baron Ungern organized the trip for me and my party to the shore of the +Pacific. We were to go on camels to northern Manchuria, because there +it was easy to avoid cavilling with the Chinese authorities so badly +oriented in the international relationship with Poland. Having sent a +letter from Uliassutai to the French Legation at Peking and bearing with +me a letter from the Chinese Chamber of Commerce, expressing thanks +for the saving of Uliassutai from a pogrom, I intended to make for the +nearest station on the Chinese Eastern Railway and from there proceed to +Peking. The Danish merchant E. V. Olufsen was to have traveled out with +me and also a learned Lama Turgut, who was headed for China. + +Never shall I forget the night of May 19th to 20th of 1921! After dinner +Baron Ungern proposed that we go to the yurta of Djam Bolon, whose +acquaintance I had made on the first day after my arrival in Urga. +His yurta was placed on a raised wooden platform in a compound located +behind the Russian settlement. Two Buriat officers met us and took us +in. Djam Bolon was a man of middle age, tall and thin with an unusually +long face. Before the Great War he had been a simple shepherd but had +fought together with Baron Ungern on the German front and afterwards +against the Bolsheviki. He was a Grand Duke of the Buriats, the +successor of former Buriat kings who had been dethroned by the Russian +Government after their attempt to establish the Independence of the +Buriat people. The servants brought us dishes with nuts, raisins, dates +and cheese and served us tea. + +"This is the last night, Djam Bolon!" said Baron Ungern. "You promised +me . . ." + +"I remember," answered the Buriat, "all is ready." + +For a long time I listened to their reminiscences about former battles +and friends who had been lost. The clock pointed to midnight when Djam +Bolon got up and went out of the yurta. + +"I want to have my fortune told once more," said Baron Ungern, as though +he were justifying himself. "For the good of our cause it is too early +for me to die. . . ." + +Djam Bolon came back with a little woman of middle years, who squatted +down eastern style before the brazier, bowed low and began to stare at +Baron Ungern. Her face was whiter, narrower and thinner than that of a +Mongol woman. Her eyes were black and sharp. Her dress resembled that of +a gypsy woman. Afterwards I learned that she was a famous fortune teller +and prophet among the Buriats, the daughter of a gypsy woman and a +Buriat. She drew a small bag very slowly from her girdle, took from it +some small bird bones and a handful of dry grass. She began whispering +at intervals unintelligible words, as she threw occasional handfuls of +the grass into the fire, which gradually filled the tent with a soft +fragrance. I felt a distinct palpitation of my heart and a swimming in +my head. After the fortune teller had burned all her grass, she placed +the bird bones on the charcoal and turned them over again and again with +a small pair of bronze pincers. As the bones blackened, she began to +examine them and then suddenly her face took on an expression of fear +and pain. She nervously tore off the kerchief which bound her head and, +contracted with convulsions, began snapping out short, sharp phrases. + +"I see . . . I see the God of War. . . . His life runs out . . . +horribly. . . . After it a shadow . . . black like the night. . . . +Shadow. . . . One hundred thirty steps remain. . . . Beyond darkness. +. . . Nothing . . . I see nothing. . . . The God of War has +disappeared. . . ." + +Baron Ungern dropped his head. The woman fell over on her back with her +arms stretched out. She had fainted, but it seemed to me that I noticed +once a bright pupil of one of her eyes showing from under the closed +lashes. Two Buriats carried out the lifeless form, after which a long +silence reigned in the yurta of the Buriat Prince. Baron Ungern finally +got up and began to walk around the brazier, whispering to himself. +Afterwards he stopped and began speaking rapidly: + +"I shall die! I shall die! . . . but no matter, no matter. . . . The +cause has been launched and will not die. . . . I know the roads this +cause will travel. The tribes of Jenghiz Khan's successors are awakened. +Nobody shall extinguish the fire in the heart of the Mongols! In Asia +there will be a great State from the Pacific and Indian Oceans to the +shore of the Volga. The wise religion of Buddha shall run to the north +and the west. It will be the victory of the spirit. A conqueror and +leader will appear stronger and more stalwart than Jenghiz Khan and +Ugadai. He will be more clever and more merciful than Sultan Baber +and he will keep power in his hands until the happy day when, from his +subterranean capital, shall emerge the King of the World. Why, why shall +I not be in the first ranks of the warriors of Buddhism? Why has Karma +decided so? But so it must be! And Russia must first wash herself from +the insult of revolution, purifying herself with blood and death; and +all people accepting Communism must perish with their families in order +that all their offspring may be rooted out!" + +The Baron raised his hand above his head and shook it, as though he were +giving his orders and bequests to some invisible person. + +Day was dawning. + +"My time has come!" said the General. "In a little while I shall leave +Urga." + +He quickly and firmly shook hands with us and said: + +"Good-bye for all time! I shall die a horrible death but the world has +never seen such a terror and such a sea of blood as it shall now +see. . . ." + +The door of the yurta slammed shut and he was gone. I never saw him +again. + +"I must go also, for I am likewise leaving Urga today." + +"I know it," answered the Prince, "the Baron has left you with me for +some purpose. I will give you a fourth companion, the Mongol Minister of +War. You will accompany him to your yurta. It is necessary for you. . . +." + +Djam Bolon pronounced this last with an accent on every word. I did +not question him about it, as I was accustomed to the mystery of this +country of the mysteries of good and evil spirits. + + +CHAPTER XXXIX + +"THE MAN WITH A HEAD LIKE A SADDLE" + + +After drinking tea at Djam Bolon's yurta I rode back to my quarters and +packed my few belongings. The Lama Turgut was already there. + +"The Minister of War will travel with us," he whispered. "It is +necessary." + +"All right," I answered, and rode off to Olufsen to summon him. But +Olufsen unexpectedly announced that he was forced to spend some few +days more in Urga--a fatal decision for him, for a month later he was +reported killed by Sepailoff who remained as Commandant of the city +after Baron Ungern's departure. The War Minister, a stout, young Mongol, +joined our caravan. When we had gone about six miles from the city, we +saw an automobile coming up behind us. The Lama shrunk up inside his +coat and looked at me with fear. I felt the now familiar atmosphere of +danger and so opened my holster and threw over the safety catch of +my revolver. Soon the motor stopped alongside our caravan. In it sat +Sepailoff with a smiling face and beside him his two executioners, +Chestiakoff and Jdanoff. Sepailoff greeted us very warmly and asked: + +"You are changing your horses in Khazahuduk? Does the road cross that +pass ahead? I don't know the way and must overtake an envoy who went +there." + +The Minister of War answered that we would be in Khazahuduk that evening +and gave Sepailoff directions as to the road. The motor rushed away and, +when it had topped the pass, he ordered one of the Mongols to gallop +forward to see whether it had not stopped somewhere near the other side. +The Mongol whipped his steed and sped away. We followed slowly. + +"What is the matter?" I asked. "Please explain!" + +The Minister told me that Djam Bolon yesterday received information +that Sepailoff planned to overtake me on the way and kill me. Sepailoff +suspected that I had stirred up the Baron against him. Djam Bolon +reported the matter to the Baron, who organized this column for my +safety. The returning Mongol reported that the motor car had gone on out +of sight. + +"Now," said the Minister, "we shall take quite another route so that the +Colonel will wait in vain for us at Khazahuduk." + +We turned north at Undur Dobo and at night were in the camp of a local +prince. Here we took leave of our Minister, received splendid fresh +horses and quickly continued our trip to the east, leaving behind us +"the man with the head like a saddle" against whom I had been warned by +the old fortune teller in the vicinity of Van Kure. + +After twelve days without further adventures we reached the first +railway station on the Chinese Eastern Railway, from where I traveled in +unbelievable luxury to Peking. + +* * * * * + +Surrounded by the comforts and conveniences of the splendid hotel +at Peking, while shedding all the attributes of traveler, hunter and +warrior, I could not, however, throw off the spell of those nine days +spent in Urga, where I had daily met Baron Ungern, "Incarnated God of +War." The newspapers carrying accounts of the bloody march of the Baron +through Transbaikalia brought the pictures ever fresh to my mind. Even +now, although more than seven months have elapsed, I cannot forget those +nights of madness, inspiration and hate. + +The predictions are fulfilled. Approximately one hundred thirty days +afterwards Baron Ungern was captured by the Bolsheviki through the +treachery of his officers and, it is reported, was executed at the end +of September. + +Baron R. F. Ungern von Sternberg. . . . Like a bloody storm of avenging +Karma he spread over Central Asia. What did he leave behind him? The +severe order to his soldiers closing with the words of the Revelations +of St. John: + +"Let no one check the revenge against the corrupter and slayer of the +soul of the Russian people. Revolution must be eradicated from the +World. Against it the Revelations of St. John have warned us thus: 'And +the woman was arrayed in purple and scarlet, and decked with gold and +precious stones and pearls, having in her hand a golden cup full of +abominations, even the unclean things of her fornication, and upon her +forehead a name written, MYSTERY, BABYLON THE GREAT, THE MOTHER OF +THE HARLOTS AND OF THE ABOMINATIONS OF THE EARTH. And I saw the woman +drunken with the blood of the saints, and with the blood of the martyrs +of Jesus.'" + +It is a human document, a document of Russian and, perhaps, of world +tragedy. + +But there remained another and more important trace. In the Mongol +yurtas and at the fires of Buriat, Mongol, Djungar, Kirkhiz, Kalmuck and +Tibetan shepherds still speak the legend born of this son of crusaders +and privateers: + +"From the north a white warrior came and called on the Mongols to break +their chains of slavery, which fell upon our freed soil. This white +warrior was the Incarnated Jenghiz Khan and he predicted the coming of +the greatest of all Mongols who will spread the fair faith of Buddha and +the glory and power of the offspring of Jenghiz, Ugadai and Kublai Khan. +So it shall be!" + +Asia is awakened and her sons utter bold words. + +It were well for the peace of the world if they go forth as disciples of +the wise creators, Ugadai and Sultan Baber, rather than under the spell +of the "bad demons" of the destructive Tamerlane. + + + + +Part IV + +THE LIVING BUDDHA + + +CHAPTER XL + +IN THE BLISSFUL GARDEN OF A THOUSAND JOYS + + +In Mongolia, the country of miracles and mysteries, lives the custodian +of all the mysterious and unknown, the Living Buddha, His Holiness +Djebtsung Damba Hutuktu Khan or Bogdo Gheghen, Pontiff of Ta Kure. He +is the incarnation of the never-dying Buddha, the representative of the +unbroken, mysteriously continued line of spiritual emperors ruling +since 1670, concealing in themselves the ever refining spirit of Buddha +Amitabha joined with Chan-ra-zi or the "Compassionate Spirit of the +Mountains." In him is everything, even the Sun Myth and the fascination +of the mysterious peaks of the Himalayas, tales of the Indian pagoda, +the stern majesty of the Mongolian Conquerors--Emperors of All Asia--and +the ancient, hazy legends of the Chinese sages; immersion in the +thoughts of the Brahmans; the severities of life of the monks of the +"Virtuous Order"; the vengeance of the eternally wandering warriors, the +Olets, with their Khans, Batur Hun Taigi and Gushi; the proud bequests +of Jenghiz and Kublai Khan; the clerical reactionary psychology of the +Lamas; the mystery of Tibetan kings beginning from Srong-Tsang Gampo; +and the mercilessness of the Yellow Sect of Paspa. All the hazy history +of Asia, of Mongolia, Pamir, Himalayas, Mesopotamia, Persia and China, +surrounds the Living God of Urga. It is little wonder that his name +is honored along the Volga, in Siberia, Arabia, between the Tigris and +Euphrates, in Indo-China and on the shores of the Arctic Ocean. + +During my stay in Urga I visited the abode of the Living Buddha several +times, spoke with him and observed his life. His favorite learned +Marambas gave me long accounts of him. I saw him reading horoscopes, I +heard his predictions, I looked over his archives of ancient books and +the manuscripts containing the lives and predictions of all the Bogdo +Khans. The Lamas were very frank and open with me, because the letter of +the Hutuktu of Narabanchi won for me their confidence. + +The personality of the Living Buddha is double, just as everything in +Lamaism is double. Clever, penetrating, energetic, he at the same time +indulges in the drunkenness which has brought on blindness. When he +became blind, the Lamas were thrown into a state of desperation. Some of +them maintained that Bogdo Khan must be poisoned and another Incarnate +Buddha set in his place; while the others pointed out the great merits +of the Pontiff in the eyes of Mongolians and the followers of the Yellow +Faith. They finally decided to propitiate the gods by building a great +temple with a gigantic statue of Buddha. However, this did not help +the Bogdo's sight but the whole incident gave him the opportunity of +hurrying on to their higher life those among the Lamas who had shown too +much radicalism in their proposed method of solving his problem. + +He never ceases to ponder upon the cause of the church and of Mongolia +and at the same time likes to indulge himself with useless trifles. He +amuses himself with artillery. A retired Russian officer presented him +with two old guns, for which the donor received the title of Tumbaiir +Hun, that is, "Prince Dear-to-my-Heart." On holidays these cannon were +fired to the great amusement of the blind man. Motorcars, gramophones, +telephones, crystals, porcelains, pictures, perfumes, musical +instruments, rare animals and birds; elephants, Himalayan bears, +monkeys, Indian snakes and parrots--all these were in the palace of "the +god" but all were soon cast aside and forgotten. + +To Urga come pilgrims and presents from all the Lamaite and Buddhist +world. Once the treasurer of the palace, the Honorable Balma Dorji, +took me into the great hall where the presents were kept. It was a most +unique museum of precious articles. Here were gathered together rare +objects unknown to the museums of Europe. The treasurer, as he opened a +case with a silver lock, said to me: + +"These are pure gold nuggets from Bei Kem; here are black sables from +Kemchick; these the miraculous deer horns; this a box sent by the +Orochons and filled with precious ginseng roots and fragrant musk; this +a bit of amber from the coast of the 'frozen sea' and it weighs 124 lans +(about ten pounds); these are precious stones from India, fragrant zebet +and carved ivory from China." + +He showed the exhibits and talked of them for a long time and evidently +enjoyed the telling. And really it was wonderful! Before my eyes lay the +bundles of rare furs; white beaver, black sables, white, blue and black +fox and black panthers; small beautifully carved tortoise shell boxes +containing hatyks ten or fifteen yards long, woven from Indian silk as +fine as the webs of the spider; small bags made of golden thread +filled with pearls, the presents of Indian Rajahs; precious rings with +sapphires and rubies from China and India; big pieces of jade, rough +diamonds; ivory tusks ornamented with gold, pearls and precious stones; +bright clothes sewn with gold and silver thread; walrus tusks carved in +bas-relief by the primitive artists on the shores of the Behring Sea; +and much more that one cannot recall or recount. In a separate room +stood the cases with the statues of Buddha, made of gold, silver, +bronze, ivory, coral, mother of pearl and from a rare colored and +fragrant species of wood. + +"You know when conquerors come into a country where the gods are +honored, they break the images and throw them down. So it was more than +three hundred years ago when the Kalmucks went into Tibet and the same +was repeated in Peking when the European troops looted the place in +1900. But do you know why this is done? Take one of the statues and +examine it." + +I picked up one nearest the edge, a wooden Buddha, and began examining +it. Inside something was loose and rattled. + +"Do you hear it?" the Lama asked. "These are precious stones and bits of +gold, the entrails of the god. This is the reason why the conquerors at +once break up the statues of the gods. Many famous precious stones have +appeared from the interior of the statues of the gods in India, Babylon +and China." + +Some rooms were devoted to the library, where manuscripts and volumes +of different epochs in different languages and with many diverse themes +fill the shelves. Some of them are mouldering or pulverizing away and +the Lamas cover these now with a solution which partially solidifies +like a jelly to protect what remains from the ravages of the air. There +also we saw tablets of clay with the cuneiform inscriptions, evidently +from Babylonia; Chinese, Indian and Tibetan books shelved beside those +of Mongolia; tomes of the ancient pure Buddhism; books of the "Red Caps" +or corrupt Buddhism; books of the "Yellow" or Lamaite Buddhism; books +of traditions, legends and parables. Groups of Lamas were perusing, +studying and copying these books, preserving and spreading the ancient +wisdom for their successors. + +One department is devoted to the mysterious books on magic, the +historical lives and works of all the thirty-one Living Buddhas, with +the bulls of the Dalai Lama, of the Pontiff from Tashi Lumpo, of the +Hutuktu of Utai in China, of the Pandita Gheghen of Dolo Nor in Inner +Mongolia and of the Hundred Chinese Wise Men. Only the Bogdo Hutuktu and +Maramba Ta-Rimpo-Cha can enter this room of mysterious lore. The keys to +it rest with the seals of the Living Buddha and the ruby ring of Jenghiz +Khan ornamented with the sign of the swastika in the chest in the +private study of the Bogdo. + +The person of His Holiness is surrounded by five thousand Lamas. They +are divided into many ranks from simple servants to the "Councillors of +God," of which latter the Government consists. Among these Councillors +are all the four Khans of Mongolia and the five highest Princes. + +Of all the Lamas there are three classes of peculiar interest, about +which the Living Buddha himself told me when I visited him with Djam +Bolon. + +"The God" sorrowfully mourned over the demoralized and sumptuous life +led by the Lamas which decreased rapidly the number of fortune tellers +and clairvoyants among their ranks, saying of it: + +"If the Jahantsi and Narabanchi monasteries had not preserved their +strict regime and rules, Ta Kure would have been left without prophets +and fortune tellers. Barun Abaga Nar, Dorchiul-Jurdok and the other holy +Lamas who had the power of seeing that which is hidden from the sight of +the common people have gone with the blessing of the gods." + +This class of Lamas is a very important one, because every important +personage visiting the monasteries at Urga is shown to the Lama Tzuren +or fortune teller without the knowledge of the visitor for the study of +his destiny and fate, which are then communicated to the Bogdo Hutuktu, +so that with these facts in his possession the Bogdo knows in what way +to treat his guest and what policy to follow toward him. The Tzurens are +mostly old men, skinny, exhausted and severe ascetics. But I have met +some who were young, almost boys. They were the Hubilgan, "incarnate +gods," the future Hutuktus and Gheghens of the various Mongolian +monasteries. + +The second class is the doctors or "Ta Lama." They observe the actions +of plants and certain products from animals upon people, preserve +Tibetan medicines and cures, and study anatomy very carefully but +without making use of vivisection and the scalpel. They are skilful +bone setters, masseurs and great connoisseurs of hypnotism and animal +magnetism. + +The third class is the highest rank of doctors, consisting chiefly of +Tibetans and Kalmucks--poisoners. They may be said to be "doctors of +political medicine." They live by themselves, apart from any associates, +and are the great silent weapon in the hands of the Living Buddha. I +was informed that a large portion of them are dumb. I saw one such +doctor,--the very person who poisoned the Chinese physician sent by the +Chinese Emperor from Peking to "liquidate" the Living Buddha,--a small +white old fellow with a deeply wrinkled face, a curl of white hairs on +his chin and with vivacious eyes that were ever shifting inquiringly +about him. Whenever he comes to a monastery, the local "god" ceases to +eat and drink in fear of the activities of this Mongolian Locusta. But +even this cannot save the condemned, for a poisoned cap or shirt or +boots, or a rosary, a bridle, books or religious articles soaked in a +poisonous solution will surely accomplish the object of the Bogdo-Khan. + +The deepest esteem and religious faithfulness surround the blind +Pontiff. Before him all fall on their faces. Khans and Hutuktus approach +him on their knees. Everything about him is dark, full of Oriental +antiquity. The drunken blind man, listening to the banal arias of the +gramophone or shaking his servants with an electric current from his +dynamo, the ferocious old fellow poisoning his political enemies, +the Lama keeping his people in darkness and deceiving them with his +prophecies and fortune telling,--he is, however, not an entirely +ordinary man. + +One day we sat in the room of the Bogdo and Prince Djam Bolon translated +to him my story of the Great War. The old fellow was listening very +carefully but suddenly opened his eyes widely and began to give +attention to some sounds coming in from outside the room. His face +became reverent, supplicant and frightened. + +"The Gods call me," he whispered and slowly moved into his private +shrine, where he prayed loudly about two hours, kneeling immobile as a +statue. His prayer consists of conversation with the invisible gods, to +whose questions he himself gave the answers. He came out of the shrine +pale and exhausted but pleased and happy. It was his personal prayer. +During the regular temple service he did not participate in the prayers, +for then he is "God." Sitting on his throne, he is carried and placed +on the altar and there prayed to by the Lamas and the people. He only +receives the prayers, hopes, tears, woe and desperation of the people, +immobilely gazing into space with his sharp and bright but blind +eyes. At various times in the service the Lamas robe him in different +vestments, combinations of yellow and red, and change his caps. The +service always finishes at the solemn moment when the Living Buddha +with the tiara on his head pronounces the pontifical blessing upon +the congregation, turning his face to all four cardinal points of the +compass and finally stretching out his hands toward the northwest, that +is, to Europe, whither in the belief of the Yellow Faith must travel the +teachings of the wise Buddha. + +After earnest prayers or long temple services the Pontiff seems very +deeply shaken and often calls his secretaries and dictates his visions +and prophecies, always very complicated and unaccompanied by his +deductions. + +Sometimes with the words "Their souls are communicating," he puts on his +white robes and goes to pray in his shrine. Then all the gates of the +palace are shut and all the Lamas are sunk in solemn, mystic fear; all +are praying, telling their rosaries and whispering the orison: "Om! +Mani padme Hung!" or turning the prayer wheels with their prayers or +exorcisings; the fortune tellers read their horoscopes; the clairvoyants +write out their visions; while Marambas search the ancient books for +explanations of the words of the Living Buddha. + + +CHAPTER XLI + +THE DUST OF CENTURIES + + +Have you ever seen the dusty cobwebs and the mould in the cellars of +some ancient castle in Italy, France or England? This is the dust of +centuries. Perhaps it touched the faces, helmets and swords of a Roman +Augustus, St. Louis, the Inquisitor, Galileo or King Richard. Your heart +is involuntarily contracted and you feel a respect for these witnesses +of elapsed ages. This same impression came to me in Ta Kure, perhaps +more deep, more realistic. Here life flows on almost as it flowed eight +centuries ago; here man lives only in the past; and the contemporary +only complicates and prevents the normal life. + +"Today is a great day," the Living Buddha once said to me, "the day of +the victory of Buddhism over all other religions. It was a long time +ago--on this day Kublai Khan called to him the Lamas of all religions +and ordered them to state to him how and what they believed. They +praised their Gods and their Hutuktus. Discussions and quarrels began. +Only one Lama remained silent. At last he mockingly smiled and said: + +"'Great Emperor! Order each to prove the power of his Gods by the +performance of a miracle and afterwards judge and choose.' + +"Kublai Khan so ordered all the Lamas to show him a miracle but all were +silent, confused and powerless before him. + +"'Now,' said the Emperor, addressing the Lama who had tendered this +suggestion, 'now you must prove the power of your Gods!' + +"The Lama looked long and silently at the Emperor, turned and gazed at +the whole assembly and then quietly stretched out his hand toward them. +At this instant the golden goblet of the Emperor raised itself from +the table and tipped before the lips of the Khan without a visible hand +supporting it. The Emperor felt the delight of a fragrant wine. All were +struck with astonishment and the Emperor spoke: + +"'I elect to pray to your Gods and to them all people subject to me must +pray. What is your faith? Who are you and from where do you come?' + +"'My faith is the teaching of the wise Buddha. I am Pandita Lama, Turjo +Gamba, from the distant and glorious monastery of Sakkia in Tibet, where +dwells incarnate in a human body the Spirit of Buddha, his Wisdom and +his Power. Remember, Emperor, that the peoples who hold our faith shall +possess all the Western Universe and during eight hundred and eleven +years shall spread their faith throughout the whole world.' + +"Thus it happened on this same day many centuries ago! Lama Turjo Gamba +did not return to Tibet but lived here in Ta Kure, where there was then +only a small temple. From here he traveled to the Emperor at Karakorum +and afterwards with him to the capital of China to fortify him in +the Faith, to predict the fate of state affairs and to enlighten him +according to the will of God." + +The Living Buddha was silent for a time, whispered a prayer and then +continued: + +"Urga, the ancient nest of Buddhism. . . . With Jenghiz Khan on his +European conquest went out the Olets or Kalmucks. They remained there +almost four hundred years, living on the plains of Russia. Then they +returned to Mongolia because the Yellow Lamas called them to light +against the Kings of Tibet, Lamas of the 'red caps,' who were oppressing +the people. The Kalmucks helped the Yellow Faith but they realized that +Lhasa was too distant from the whole world and could not spread our +Faith throughout the earth. Consequently the Kalmuck Gushi Khan brought +up from Tibet a holy Lama, Undur Gheghen, who had visited the 'King of +the World.' From that day the Bogdo Gheghen has continuously lived in +Urga, a protector of the freedom of Mongolia and of the Chinese Emperors +of Mongolian origin. Undur Gheghen was the first Living Buddha in the +land of the Mongols. He left to us, his successors, the ring of Jenghiz +Khan, which was sent by Kublai Khan to Dalai Lama in return for the +miracle shown by the Lama Turjo Gamba; also the top of the skull of +a black, mysterious miracle worker from India, using which as a bowl, +Strongtsan, King of Tibet, drank during the temple ceremonies one +thousand six hundred years ago; as well as an ancient stone statue of +Buddha brought from Delhi by the founder of the Yellow Faith, Paspa." + +The Bogdo clapped his hands and one of the secretaries took from a red +kerchief a big silver key with which he unlocked the chest with the +seals. The Living Buddha slipped his hand into the chest and drew forth +a small box of carved ivory, from which he took out and showed to me a +large gold ring set with a magnificent ruby carved with the sign of the +swastika. + +"This ring was always worn on the right hand of the Khans Jenghiz and +Kublai," said the Bogdo. + +When the secretary had closed the chest, the Bogdo ordered him to +summon his favorite Maramba, whom he directed to read some pages from an +ancient book lying on the table. The Lama began to read monotonously. + +"When Gushi Khan, the Chief of all the Olets or Kalmucks, finished the +war with the 'Red Caps' in Tibet, he carried out with him the miraculous +'black stone' sent to the Dalai Lama by the 'King of the World.' Gushi +Khan wanted to create in Western Mongolia the capital of the Yellow +Faith; but the Olets at that time were at war with the Manchu Emperors +for the throne of China and suffered one defeat after another. The last +Khan of the Olets, Amursana, ran away into Russia but before his escape +sent to Urga the sacred 'black stone.' While it remained in Urga so that +the Living Buddha could bless the people with it, disease and misfortune +never touched the Mongolians and their cattle. About one hundred years +ago, however, some one stole the sacred stone and since then Buddhists +have vainly sought it throughout the whole world. With its disappearance +the Mongol people began gradually to die." + +"Enough!" ordered Bogdo Gheghen. "Our neighbors hold us in contempt. +They forget that we were their sovereigns but we preserve our holy +traditions and we know that the day of triumph of the Mongolian tribes +and the Yellow Faith will come. We have the Protectors of the Faith, the +Buriats. They are the truest guardians of the bequests of Jenghiz Khan." + +So spoke the Living Buddha and so have spoken the ancient books! + + +CHAPTER XLII + +THE BOOKS OF MIRACLES + + +Prince Djam Bolon asked a Maramba to show us the library of the Living +Buddha. It is a big room occupied by scores of writers who prepare the +works dealing with the miracles of all the Living Buddhas, beginning +with Undur Gheghen and ending with those of the Gheghens and Hutuktus of +the different Mongol monasteries. These books are afterwards distributed +through all the Lama Monasteries, temples and schools of Bandi. A +Maramba read two selections: + +". . . The beatific Bogdo Gheghen breathed on a mirror. Immediately +as through a haze there appeared the picture of a valley in which many +thousands of thousands of warriors fought one against another. . . ." + +"The wise and favored-of-the-gods Living Buddha burned incense in a +brazier and prayed to the Gods to reveal the lot of the Princes. In the +blue smoke all saw a dark prison and the pallid, tortured bodies of the +dead Princes. . . ." + +A special book, already done into thousands of copies, dwelt upon the +miracles of the present Living Buddha. Prince Djam Bolon described to me +some of the contents of this volume. + +"There exists an ancient wooden Buddha with open eyes. He was brought +here from India and Bogdo Gheghen placed him on the altar and began to +pray. When he returned from the shrine, he ordered the statue of Buddha +brought out. All were struck with amazement, for the eyes of the God +were shut and tears were falling from them; from the wooden body green +sprouts appeared; and the Bogdo said: + +"'Woe and joy are awaiting me. I shall become blind but Mongolia will be +free.' + +"The prophecy is fulfilled. At another time, on a day when the Living +Buddha was very much excited, he ordered a basin of water brought and +set before the altar. He called the Lamas and began to pray. Suddenly +the altar candles and lamps lighted themselves and the water in the +basin became iridescent." + +Afterwards the Prince described to me how the Bogdo Khan tells fortunes +with fresh blood, upon whose surface appear words and pictures; with the +entrails of sheep and goats, according to whose distribution the Bogdo +reads the fate of the Princes and knows their thoughts; with stones and +bones from which the Living Buddha with great accuracy reads the lot of +all men; and by the stars, in accordance with whose positions the Bogdo +prepares amulets against bullets and disease. + +"The former Bogdo Khans told fortunes only by the use of the 'black +stone,'" said the Maramba. "On the surface of the stone appeared Tibetan +inscriptions which the Bogdo read and thus learned the lot of whole +nations." + +When the Maramba spoke of the black stone with the Tibetan legends +appearing on it, I at once recalled that it was possible. In +southeastern Urianhai, in Ulan Taiga, I came across a place where black +slate was decomposing. All the pieces of this slate were covered with a +special white lichen, which formed very complicated designs, reminding +me of a Venetian lace pattern or whole pages of mysterious runes. When +the slate was wet, these designs disappeared; and then, as they were +dried, the patterns came out again. + +Nobody has the right or dares to ask the Living Buddha to tell his +fortune. He predicts only when he feels the inspiration or when a +special delegate comes to him bearing a request for it from the Dalai +Lama or the Tashi Lama. When the Russian Czar, Alexander I, fell under +the influence of Baroness Kzudener and of her extreme mysticism, +he despatched a special envoy to the Living Buddha to ask about his +destiny. The then Bogdo Khan, quite a young man, told his fortune +according to the "black stone" and predicted that the White Czar would +finish his life in very painful wanderings unknown to all and everywhere +pursued. In Russia today there exists a popular belief that Alexander +I spent the last days of his life as a wanderer throughout Russia and +Siberia under the pseudonym of Feodor Kusmitch, helping and consoling +prisoners, beggars and other suffering people, often pursued and +imprisoned by the police and finally dying at Tomsk in Siberia, where +even until now they have preserved the house where he spent his +last days and have kept his grave sacred, a place of pilgrimages and +miracles. The former dynasty of Romanoff was deeply interested in the +biography of Feodor Kusmitch and this interest fixed the opinion that +Kusmitch was really the Czar Alexander I, who had voluntarily taken upon +himself this severe penance. + + +CHAPTER XLIII + +THE BIRTH OF THE LIVING BUDDHA + + +The Living Buddha does not die. His soul sometimes passes into that of +a child born on the day of his death and sometimes transfers itself to +another being during the life of the Buddha. This new mortal dwelling +of the sacred spirit of the Buddha almost always appears in the yurta +of some poor Tibetan or Mongol family. There is a reason of policy for +this. If the Buddha appears in the family of a rich prince, it could +result in the elevation of a family that would not yield obedience to +the clergy (and such has happened in the past), while on the other +hand any poor, unknown family that becomes the heritor of the throne +of Jenghiz Khan acquires riches and is readily submissive to the Lamas. +Only three or four Living Buddhas were of purely Mongolian origin; the +remainder were Tibetans. + +One of the Councillors of the Living Buddha, Lama-Khan Jassaktu, told me +the following: + +"In the monasteries at Lhasa and Tashi Lumpo they are kept constantly +informed through letters from Urga about the health of the Living +Buddha. When his human body becomes old and the Spirit of Buddha strives +to extricate itself, special solemn services begin in the Tibetan +temples together with the telling of fortunes by astrology. These rites +indicate the specially pious Lamas who must discover where the Spirit +of the Buddha will be re-incarnated. For this purpose they travel +throughout the whole land and observe. Often God himself gives them +signs and indications. Sometimes the white wolf appears near the yurta +of a poor shepherd or a lamb with two heads is born or a meteor falls +from the sky. Some Lamas take fish from the sacred lake Tangri Nor and +read on the scales thereof the name of the new Bogdo Khan; others pick +out stones whose cracks indicate to them where they must search and +whom they must find; while others secrete themselves in narrow mountain +ravines to listen to the voices of the spirits of the mountains, +pronouncing the name of the new choice of the Gods. When he is found, +all the possible information about his family is secretly collected and +presented to the Most Learned Tashi Lama, having the name of Erdeni, +"The Great Gem of Learning," who, according to the runes of Rama, +verifies the selection. If he is in agreement with it, he sends a secret +letter to the Dalai Lama, who holds a special sacrifice in the Temple of +the 'Spirit of the Mountains' and confirms the election by putting his +great seal on this letter of the Tashi Lama. + +"If the old Living Buddha be still alive, the name of his successor is +kept a deep secret; if the Spirit of Buddha has already gone out from +the body of Bogdo Khan, a special legation appears from Tibet with the +new Living Buddha. The same process accompanies the election of the +Gheghen and Hutuktus in all the Lamaite monasteries in Mongolia; but +confirmation of the election resides with the Living Buddha and is only +announced to Lhasa after the event." + + +CHAPTER XLIV + +A PAGE IN THE HISTORY OF THE PRESENT LIVING BUDDHA + + +The present Bogdo Khan of Outer Mongolia is a Tibetan. He sprang from a +poor family living in the neighborhood of Sakkia Kure in western Tibet. +From earliest youth he had a stormy, quite unaesthetic nature. He was +fired with the idea of the independence and glorification of Mongolia +and the successors of Jenghiz Khan. This gave him at once a great +influence among the Lamas, Princes and Khans of Mongolia and also with +the Russian Government which always tried to attract him to their side. +He did not fear to arraign himself against the Manchu dynasty in China +and always had the help of Russia, Tibet, the Buriats and Kirghiz, +furnishing him with money, weapons, warriors and diplomatic aid. The +Chinese Emperors avoided open war with the Living God, because it might +arouse the protests of the Chinese Buddhists. At one time they sent to +the Bogdo Khan a skilful doctor-poisoner. The Living Buddha, however, at +once understood the meaning of this medical attention and, knowing the +power of Asiatic poisons, decided to make a journey through the Mongol +monasteries and through Tibet. As his substitute he left a Hubilgan who +made friends with the Chinese doctor and inquired from him the purposes +and details of his arrival. Very soon the Chinese died from some unknown +cause and the Living Buddha returned to his comfortable capital. + +On another occasion danger threatened the Living God. It was when Lhasa +decided that the Bogdo Khan was carrying out a policy too independent of +Tibet. The Dalai Lama began negotiations with several Khans and Princes +with the Sain Noion Khan and Jassaktu Khan leading the movement and +persuaded them to accelerate the immigration of the Spirit of Buddha +into another human form. They came to Urga where the Bogdo Khan met +them with honors and rejoicings. A great feast was made for them and the +conspirators already felt themselves the accomplishers of the orders +of the Dalai Lama. However, at the end of the feast, they had different +feelings and died with them during the night. The Living Buddha ordered +their bodies sent with full honors to their families. + +The Bogdo Khan knows every thought, every movement of the Princes and +Khans, the slightest conspiracy against himself, and the offender is +usually kindly invited to Urga, from where he does not return alive. + +The Chinese Government decided to terminate the line of the Living +Buddhas. Ceasing to fight with the Pontiff of Urga, the Government +contrived the following scheme for accomplishing its ends. + +Peking invited the Pandita Gheghen from Dolo Nor and the head of the +Chinese Lamaites, the Hutuktu of Utai, both of whom do not recognize the +supremacy of the Living Buddha, to come to the capital. They decided, +after consulting the old Buddhistic books, that the present Bogdo Khan +was to be the last Living Buddha, because that part of the Spirit of +Buddha which dwells in the Bogdo Khans can abide only thirty-one times +in the human body. Bogdo Khan is the thirty-first Incarnated Buddha from +the time of Undur Gheghen and with him, therefore, the dynasty of +the Urga Pontiffs must cease. However, on hearing this the Bogdo Khan +himself did some research work and found in the old Tibetan manuscripts +that one of the Tibetan Pontiffs was married and his son was a natural +Incarnated Buddha. So the Bogdo Khan married and now has a son, a +very capable and energetic young man, and thus the religious throne of +Jenghiz Khan will not be left empty. The dynasty of the Chinese emperors +disappeared from the stage of political events but the Living Buddha +continues to be a center for the Pan-Asiatic idea. + +The new Chinese Government in 1920 held the Living Buddha under arrest +in his palace but at the beginning of 1921 Baron Ungern crossed the +sacred Bogdo-Ol and approached the palace from the rear. Tibetan riders +shot the Chinese sentries with bow and arrow and afterwards the Mongols +penetrated into the palace and stole their "God," who immediately +stirred up all Mongolia and awakened the hopes of the Asiatic peoples +and tribes. + +In the great palace of the Bogdo a Lama showed me a special casket +covered with a precious carpet, wherein they keep the bulls of the Dalai +and Tashi Lamas, the decrees of the Russian and Chinese Emperors and the +Treaties between Mongolia, Russia, China and Tibet. In this same casket +is the copper plate bearing the mysterious sign of the "King of the +World" and the chronicle of the last vision of the Living Buddha. + + +CHAPTER XLV + +THE VISION OF THE LIVING BUDDHA OF MAY 17, 1921 + + +"I prayed and saw that which is hidden from the eyes of the people. A +vast plain was spread before me surrounded by distant mountains. An old +Lama carried a basket filled with heavy stones. He hardly moved. From +the north a rider appeared in white robes and mounted on a white horse. +He approached the Lama and said to him: + +"'Give me your basket. I shall help you to carry them to the Kure.' + +"The Lama handed his heavy burden up to him but the rider could not +raise it to his saddle so that the old Lama had to place it back on his +shoulder and continue on his way, bent under its heavy weight. Then from +the north came another rider in black robes and on a black horse, who +also approached the Lama and said: + +"'Stupid! Why do you carry these stones when they are everywhere about +the ground?' + +"With these words he pushed the Lama over with the breast of his horse +and scattered the stones about the ground. When the stones touched the +earth, they became diamonds. All three rushed to raise them but not +one of them could break them loose from the ground. Then the old Lama +exclaimed: + +"'Oh Gods! All my life I have carried this heavy burden and now, when +there was left so little to go, I have lost it. Help me, great, good +Gods!' + +"Suddenly a tottering old man appeared. He collected all the diamonds +into the basket without trouble, cleaned the dust from them, raised the +burden to his shoulder and started out, speaking with the Lama: + +"'Rest a while, I have just carried my burden to the goal and I am glad +to help you with yours.' + +"They went on and were soon out of sight, while the riders began to +fight. They fought one whole day and then the whole night and, when the +sun rose over the plain, neither was there, either alive or dead, and no +trace of either remained. This I saw, Bogdo Hutuktu Khan, speaking with +the Great and Wise Buddha, surrounded by the good and bad demons! Wise +Lamas, Hutuktus, Kampos, Marambas and Holy Gheghens, give the answer to +my vision!" + +This was written in my presence on May 17th, 1921, from the words of the +Living Buddha just as he came out of his private shrine to his study. +I do not know what the Hutuktu and Gheghens, the fortune tellers, +sorcerers and clairvoyants replied to him; but does not the answer seem +clear, if one realizes the present situation in Asia? + +Awakened Asia is full of enigmas but it is also full of answers to +the questions set by the destiny of humankind. This great continent of +mysterious Pontiffs, Living Gods, Mahatmas and readers of the terrible +book of Karma is awakening and the ocean of hundreds of millions of +human lives is lashed with monstrous waves. + + + + +Part V + +MYSTERY OF MYSTERIES--THE KING OF THE WORLD + + +CHAPTER XLVI + +THE SUBTERRANEAN KINGDOM + + +"Stop!" whispered my old Mongol guide, as we were one day crossing the +plain near Tzagan Luk. "Stop!" + +He slipped from his camel which lay down without his bidding. The Mongol +raised his hands in prayer before his face and began to repeat the +sacred phrase: "Om! Mani padme Hung!" The other Mongols immediately +stopped their camels and began to pray. + +"What has happened?" I thought, as I gazed round over the tender green +grass, up to the cloudless sky and out toward the dreamy soft rays of +the evening sun. + +The Mongols prayed for some time, whispered among themselves and, after +tightening up the packs on the camels, moved on. + +"Did you see," asked the Mongol, "how our camels moved their ears in +fear? How the herd of horses on the plain stood fixed in attention and +how the herds of sheep and cattle lay crouched close to the ground? Did +you notice that the birds did not fly, the marmots did not run and the +dogs did not bark? The air trembled softly and bore from afar the music +of a song which penetrated to the hearts of men, animals and birds +alike. Earth and sky ceased breathing. The wind did not blow and the sun +did not move. At such a moment the wolf that is stealing up on the sheep +arrests his stealthy crawl; the frightened herd of antelopes suddenly +checks its wild course; the knife of the shepherd cutting the sheep's +throat falls from his hand; the rapacious ermine ceases to stalk the +unsuspecting salga. All living beings in fear are involuntarily thrown +into prayer and waiting for their fate. So it was just now. Thus it has +always been whenever the King of the World in his subterranean palace +prays and searches out the destiny of all peoples on the earth." + +In this wise the old Mongol, a simple, coarse shepherd and hunter, spoke +to me. + +Mongolia with her nude and terrible mountains, her limitless plains, +covered with the widely strewn bones of the forefathers, gave birth +to Mystery. Her people, frightened by the stormy passions of Nature or +lulled by her deathlike peace, feel her mystery. Her "Red" and "Yellow +Lamas" preserve and poetize her mystery. The Pontiffs of Lhasa and Urga +know and possess her mystery. + +On my journey into Central Asia I came to know for the first time about +"the Mystery of Mysteries," which I can call by no other name. At the +outset I did not pay much attention to it and did not attach to it such +importance as I afterwards realized belonged to it, when I had analyzed +and connoted many sporadic, hazy and often controversial bits of +evidence. + +The old people on the shore of the River Amyl related to me an ancient +legend to the effect that a certain Mongolian tribe in their escape from +the demands of Jenghiz Khan hid themselves in a subterranean country. +Afterwards a Soyot from near the Lake of Nogan Kul showed me the smoking +gate that serves as the entrance to the "Kingdom of Agharti." Through +this gate a hunter formerly entered into the Kingdom and, after his +return, began to relate what he had seen there. The Lamas cut out +his tongue in order to prevent him from telling about the Mystery of +Mysteries. When he arrived at old age, he came back to the entrance of +this cave and disappeared into the subterranean kingdom, the memory of +which had ornamented and lightened his nomad heart. + +I received more realistic information about this from Hutuktu Jelyb +Djamsrap in Narabanchi Kure. He told me the story of the semi-realistic +arrival of the powerful King of the World from the subterranean kingdom, +of his appearance, of his miracles and of his prophecies; and only then +did I begin to understand that in that legend, hypnosis or mass vision, +whichever it may be, is hidden not only mystery but a realistic and +powerful force capable of influencing the course of the political life +of Asia. From that moment I began making some investigations. + +The favorite Gelong Lama of Prince Chultun Beyli and the Prince himself +gave me an account of the subterranean kingdom. + +"Everything in the world," said the Gelong, "is constantly in a state of +change and transition--peoples science, religions, laws and customs. How +many great empires and brilliant cultures have perished! And that alone +which remains unchanged is Evil, the tool of Bad Spirits. More than +sixty thousand years ago a Holyman disappeared with a whole tribe of +people under the ground and never appeared again on the surface of the +earth. Many people, however, have since visited this kingdom, Sakkia +Mouni, Undur Gheghen, Paspa, Khan Baber and others. No one knows where +this place is. One says Afghanistan, others India. All the people there +are protected against Evil and crimes do not exist within its bournes. +Science has there developed calmly and nothing is threatened with +destruction. The subterranean people have reached the highest knowledge. +Now it is a large kingdom, millions of men with the King of the World +as their ruler. He knows all the forces of the world and reads all the +souls of humankind and the great book of their destiny. Invisibly he +rules eight hundred million men on the surface of the earth and they +will accomplish his every order." + +Prince Chultun Beyli added: "This kingdom is Agharti. It extends +throughout all the subterranean passages of the whole world. I heard a +learned Lama of China relating to Bogdo Khan that all the subterranean +caves of America are inhabited by the ancient people who have +disappeared underground. Traces of them are still found on the surface +of the land. These subterranean peoples and spaces are governed by +rulers owing allegiance to the King of the World. In it there is not +much of the wonderful. You know that in the two greatest oceans of the +east and the west there were formerly two continents. They disappeared +under the water but their people went into the subterranean kingdom. In +underground caves there exists a peculiar light which affords growth to +the grains and vegetables and long life without disease to the people. +There are many different peoples and many different tribes. An old +Buddhist Brahman in Nepal was carrying out the will of the Gods in +making a visit to the ancient kingdom of Jenghiz,--Siam,--where he met a +fisherman who ordered him to take a place in his boat and sail with him +upon the sea. On the third day they reached an island where he met a +people having two tongues which could speak separately in different +languages. They showed to him peculiar, unfamiliar animals, tortoises +with sixteen feet and one eye, huge snakes with a very tasty flesh and +birds with teeth which caught fish for their masters in the sea. These +people told him that they had come up out of the subterranean kingdom +and described to him certain parts of the underground country." + +The Lama Turgut traveling with me from Urga to Peking gave me further +details. + +"The capital of Agharti is surrounded with towns of high priests and +scientists. It reminds one of Lhasa where the palace of the Dalai +Lama, the Potala, is the top of a mountain covered with monasteries and +temples. The throne of the King of the World is surrounded by millions +of incarnated Gods. They are the Holy Panditas. The palace itself is +encircled by the palaces of the Goro, who possess all the visible and +invisible forces of the earth, of inferno and of the sky and who can do +everything for the life and death of man. If our mad humankind should +begin a war against them, they would be able to explode the whole +surface of our planet and transform it into deserts. They can dry up +the seas, transform lands into oceans and scatter the mountains into the +sands of the deserts. By his order trees, grasses and bushes can be made +to grow; old and feeble men can become young and stalwart; and the dead +can be resurrected. In cars strange and unknown to us they rush through +the narrow cleavages inside our planet. Some Indian Brahmans and Tibetan +Dalai Lamas during their laborious struggles to the peaks of mountains +which no other human feet had trod have found there inscriptions carved +on the rocks, footprints in the snow and the tracks of wheels. The +blissful Sakkia Mouni found on one mountain top tablets of stone +carrying words which he only understood in his old age and afterwards +penetrated into the Kingdom of Agharti, from which he brought back +crumbs of the sacred learning preserved in his memory. There in palaces +of wonderful crystal live the invisible rulers of all pious people, the +King of the World or Brahytma, who can speak with God as I speak with +you, and his two assistants, Mahytma, knowing the purposes of future +events, and Mahynga, ruling the causes of these events." + +"The Holy Panditas study the world and all its forces. Sometimes the +most learned among them collect together and send envoys to that place +where the human eyes have never penetrated. This is described by +the Tashi Lama living eight hundred and fifty years ago. The highest +Panditas place their hands on their eyes and at the base of the brain of +younger ones and force them into a deep sleep, wash their bodies with an +infusion of grass and make them immune to pain and harder than stones, +wrap them in magic cloths, bind them and then pray to the Great God. The +petrified youths lie with eyes and ears open and alert, seeing, hearing +and remembering everything. Afterwards a Goro approaches and fastens a +long, steady gaze upon them. Very slowly the bodies lift themselves from +the earth and disappear. The Goro sits and stares with fixed eyes to the +place whither he has sent them. Invisible threads join them to his will. +Some of them course among the stars, observe their events, their unknown +peoples, their life and their laws. They listen to their talk, read +their books, understand their fortunes and woes, their holiness and +sins, their piety and evil. Some are mingled with flame and see the +creature of fire, quick and ferocious, eternally fighting, melting and +hammering metals in the depths of planets, boiling the water for geysers +and springs, melting the rocks and pushing out molten streams over the +surface of the earth through the holes in the mountains. Others rush +together with the ever elusive, infinitesimally small, transparent +creatures of the air and penetrate into the mysteries of their existence +and into the purposes of their life. Others slip into the depths of the +seas and observe the kingdom of the wise creatures of the water, who +transport and spread genial warmth all over the earth, ruling the winds, +waves and storms. . . . In Erdeni Dzu formerly lived Pandita Hutuktu, +who had come from Agharti. As he was dying, he told about the time when +he lived according to the will of the Goro on a red star in the east, +floated in the ice-covered ocean and flew among the stormy fires in the +depths of the earth." + +These are the tales which I heard in the Mongolian yurtas of Princes and +in the Lamaite monasteries. These stories were all related in a solemn +tone which forbade challenge and doubt. + +Mystery. . . . + + +CHAPTER XLVII + +THE KING OF THE WORLD BEFORE THE FACE OF GOD + + +During my stay in Urga I tried to find an explanation of this legend +about the King of the World. Of course, the Living Buddha could tell +me most of all and so I endeavored to get the story from him. In a +conversation with him I mentioned the name of the King of the World. +The old Pontiff sharply turned his head toward me and fixed upon me his +immobile, blind eyes. Unwillingly I became silent. Our silence was a +long one and after it the Pontiff continued the conversation in such +a way that I understood he did not wish to accept the suggestion of my +reference. On the faces of the others present I noticed expressions of +astonishment and fear produced by my words, and especially was this +true of the custodian of the library of the Bogdo Khan. One can readily +understand that all this only made me the more anxious to press the +pursuit. + +As I was leaving the study of the Bogdo Hutuktu, I met the librarian +who had stepped out ahead of me and asked him if he would show me the +library of the Living Buddha and used a very simple, sly trick with him. + +"Do you know, my dear Lama," I said, "once I rode in the plain at the +hour when the King of the World spoke with God and I felt the impressive +majesty of this moment." + +To my astonishment the old Lama very quietly answered me: "It is not +right that the Buddhist and our Yellow Faith should conceal it. The +acknowledgment of the existence of the most holy and most powerful man, +of the blissful kingdom, of the great temple of sacred science is such +a consolation to our sinful hearts and our corrupt lives that to +conceal it from humankind is a sin. . . . Well, listen," he continued, +"throughout the whole year the King of the World guides the work of the +Panditas and Goros of Agharti. Only at times he goes to the temple cave +where the embalmed body of his predecessor lies in a black stone coffin. +This cave is always dark, but when the King of the World enters it +the walls are striped with fire and from the lid of the coffin appear +tongues of flame. The eldest Goro stands before him with covered head +and face and with hands folded across his chest. This Goro never removes +the covering from his face, for his head is a nude skull with living +eyes and a tongue that speaks. He is in communion with the souls of all +who have gone before. + +"The King of the World prays for a long time and afterwards approaches +the coffin and stretches out his hand. The flames thereon burn brighter; +the stripes of fire on the walls disappear and revive, interlace and +form mysterious signs from the alphabet vatannan. From the coffin +transparent bands of scarcely noticeable light begin to flow forth. +These are the thoughts of his predecessor. Soon the King of the World +stands surrounded by an auriole of this light and fiery letters write +and write upon the walls the wishes and orders of God. At this moment +the King of the World is in contact with the thoughts of all the men who +influence the lot and life of all humankind: with Kings, Czars, Khans, +warlike leaders, High Priests, scientists and other strong men. He +realizes all their thoughts and plans. If these be pleasing before God, +the King of the World will invisibly help them; if they are unpleasant +in the sight of God, the King will bring them to destruction. This power +is given to Agharti by the mysterious science of 'Om,' with which we +begin all our prayers. 'Om' is the name of an ancient Holyman, the first +Goro, who lived three hundred thirty thousand years ago. He was the +first man to know God and who taught humankind to believe, hope and +struggle with Evil. Then God gave him power over all forces ruling the +visible world. + +"After his conversation with his predecessor the King of the World +assembles the 'Great Council of God,' judges the actions and thoughts +of great men, helps them or destroys them. Mahytma and Mahynga find the +place for these actions and thoughts in the causes ruling the world. +Afterwards the King of the World enters the great temple and prays in +solitude. Fire appears on the altar, gradually spreading to all the +altars near, and through the burning flame gradually appears the face of +God. The King of the World reverently announces to God the decisions and +awards of the 'Council of God' and receives in turn the Divine orders of +the Almighty. As he comes forth from the temple, the King of the World +radiates with Divine Light." + + +CHAPTER XLVIII + +REALITY OR RELIGIOUS FANTASY? + + +"Has anybody seen the King of the World?" I asked. + +"Oh, yes!" answered the Lama. "During the solemn holidays of the ancient +Buddhism in Siam and India the King of the World appeared five times. +He rode in a splendid car drawn by white elephants and ornamented with +gold, precious stones and finest fabrics; he was robed in a white mantle +and red tiara with strings of diamonds masking his face. He blessed the +people with a golden apple with the figure of a Lamb above it. The +blind received their sight, the dumb spoke, the deaf heard, the crippled +freely moved and the dead arose, wherever the eyes of the King of the +World rested. He also appeared five hundred and forty years ago in +Erdeni Dzu, he was in the ancient Sakkai Monastery and in the Narabanchi +Kure. + +"One of our Living Buddhas and one of the Tashi Lamas received a message +from him, written with unknown signs on golden tablets. No one could +read these signs. The Tashi Lama entered the temple, placed the golden +tablet on his head and began to pray. With this the thoughts of the +King of the World penetrated his brain and, without having read the +enigmatical signs, he understood and accomplished the message of the +King." + +"How many persons have ever been to Agharti?" I questioned him. + +"Very many," answered the Lama, "but all these people have kept secret +that which they saw there. When the Olets destroyed Lhasa, one of their +detachments in the southwestern mountains penetrated to the outskirts +of Agharti. Here they learned some of the lesser mysterious sciences +and brought them to the surface of our earth. This is why the Olets +and Kalmucks are artful sorcerers and prophets. Also from the eastern +country some tribes of black people penetrated to Agharti and lived +there many centuries. Afterwards they were thrust out from the kingdom +and returned to the earth, bringing with them the mystery of predictions +according to cards, grasses and the lines of the palm. They are the +Gypsies. . . . Somewhere in the north of Asia a tribe exists which is +now dying and which came from the cave of Agharti, skilled in calling +back the spirits of the dead as they float through the air." + +The Lama was silent and afterwards, as though answering my thoughts, +continued. + +"In Agharti the learned Panditas write on tablets of stone all the +science of our planet and of the other worlds. The Chinese learned +Buddhists know this. Their science is the highest and purest. Every +century one hundred sages of China collect in a secret place on +the shores of the sea, where from its depths come out one hundred +eternally-living tortoises. On their shells the Chinese write all the +developments of the divine science of the century." + +As I write I am involuntarily reminded of a tale of an old Chinese bonze +in the Temple of Heaven at Peking. He told me that tortoises live more +than three thousand years without food and air and that this is the +reason why all the columns of the blue Temple of Heaven were set on live +tortoises to preserve the wood from decay. + +"Several times the Pontiffs of Lhasa and Urga have sent envoys to the +King of the World," said the Lama librarian, "but they could not find +him. Only a certain Tibetan leader after a battle with the Olets found +the cave with the inscription: 'This is the gate to Agharti.' From the +cave a fine appearing man came forth, presented him with a gold tablet +bearing the mysterious signs and said: + +"'The King of the World will appear before all people when the time +shall have arrived for him to lead all the good people of the world +against all the bad; but this time has not yet come. The most evil among +mankind have not yet been born. + +"Chiang Chun Baron Ungern sent the young Prince Pounzig to seek out the +King of the World but he returned with a letter from the Dalai Lama from +Lhasa. When the Baron sent him a second time, he did not come back." + + +CHAPTER XLIX + +THE PROPHECY OF THE KING OF THE WORLD IN 1890 + + +The Hutuktu of Narabanchi related the following to me, when I visited +him in his monastery in the beginning of 1921: + +"When the King of the World appeared before the Lamas, favored of God, +in this monastery thirty years ago he made a prophecy for the coming +half century. It was as follows: + +"'More and more the people will forget their souls and care about their +bodies. The greatest sin and corruption will reign on the earth. People +will become as ferocious animals, thirsting for the blood and death +of their brothers. The 'Crescent' will grow dim and its followers will +descend into beggary and ceaseless war. Its conquerors will be stricken +by the sun but will not progress upward and twice they will be visited +with the heaviest misfortune, which will end in insult before the eye of +the other peoples. The crowns of kings, great and small, will fall . . . +one, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight. . . . There will be +a terrible battle among all the peoples. The seas will become red . . . +the earth and the bottom of the seas will be strewn with bones . . . +kingdoms will be scattered . . . whole peoples will die . . . hunger, +disease, crimes unknown to the law, never before seen in the world. The +enemies of God and of the Divine Spirit in man will come. Those who take +the hand of another shall also perish. The forgotten and pursued shall +rise and hold the attention of the whole world. There will be fogs +and storms. Bare mountains shall suddenly be covered with forests. +Earthquakes will come. . . . Millions will change the fetters of slavery +and humiliation for hunger, disease and death. The ancient roads will +be covered with crowds wandering from one place to another. The greatest +and most beautiful cities shall perish in fire . . . one, two, three. +. . . Father shall rise against son, brother against brother and mother +against daughter. . . . Vice, crime and the destruction of body and soul +shall follow. . . . Families shall be scattered. . . . Truth and love +shall disappear. . . . From ten thousand men one shall remain; he shall +be nude and mad and without force and the knowledge to build him a house +and find his food. . . . He will howl as the raging wolf, devour dead +bodies, bite his own flesh and challenge God to fight. . . . All the +earth will be emptied. God will turn away from it and over it there will +be only night and death. Then I shall send a people, now unknown, which +shall tear out the weeds of madness and vice with a strong hand and will +lead those who still remain faithful to the spirit of man in the fight +against Evil. They will found a new life on the earth purified by the +death of nations. In the fiftieth year only three great kingdoms will +appear, which will exist happily seventy-one years. Afterwards there +will be eighteen years of war and destruction. Then the peoples of +Agharti will come up from their subterranean caverns to the surface of +the earth.'" + +* * * * * + +Afterwards, as I traveled farther through Eastern Mongolia and to +Peking, I often thought: + +"And what if . . . ? What if whole peoples of different colors, faiths +and tribes should begin their migration toward the West?" + +And now, as I write these final lines, my eyes involuntarily turn to +this limitless Heart of Asia over which the trails of my wanderings +twine. Through whirling snow and driving clouds of sand of the Gobi they +travel back to the face of the Narabanchi Hutuktu as, with quiet voice +and a slender hand pointing to the horizon, he opened to me the doors of +his innermost thoughts: + +"Near Karakorum and on the shores of Ubsa Nor I see the huge, +multi-colored camps, the herds of horses and cattle and the blue yurtas +of the leaders. Above them I see the old banners of Jenghiz Khan, of +the Kings of Tibet, Siam, Afghanistan and of Indian Princes; the sacred +signs of all the Lamaite Pontiffs; the coats of arms of the Khans of the +Olets; and the simple signs of the north Mongolian tribes. I do not hear +the noise of the animated crowd. The singers do not sing the mournful +songs of mountain, plain and desert. The young riders are not delighting +themselves with the races on their fleet steeds. . . . There are +innumerable crowds of old men, women and children and beyond in the +north and west, as far as the eye can reach, the sky is red as a flame, +there is the roar and crackling of fire and the ferocious sound of +battle. Who is leading these warriors who there beneath the reddened sky +are shedding their own and others' blood? Who is leading these crowds +of unarmed old men and women? I see severe order, deep religious +understanding of purposes, patience and tenacity . . . a new great +migration of peoples, the last march of the Mongols. . . ." + +Karma may have opened a new page of history! + +And what if the King of the World be with them? + +But this greatest Mystery of Mysteries keeps its own deep silence. + + +GLOSSARY + + +Agronome.--Russian for trained agriculturalist. + +Amour sayn.--Good-bye. + +Ataman.--Headman or chief of the Cossacks. + +Bandi.--Pupil or student of theological school in the Buddhist faith. + +Buriat.--The most civilized Mongol tribe, living in the valley of the +Selenga in Transbaikalia. + +Chahars.--A warlike Mongolian tribe living along the Great Wall of China +in Inner Mongolia. + +Chaidje.--A high Lamaite priest, but not an incarnate god. + +Cheka.--The Bolshevik Counter-Revolutionary Committee, the most +relentless establishment of the Bolsheviki, organized for the +persecution of the enemies of the Communistic government in Russia. + +Chiang Chun.--Chinese for "General"--Chief of all Chinese troops in +Mongolia. + +Dalai Lama.--The first and highest Pontiff of the Lamaite or "Yellow +Faith," living at Lhasa in Tibet. + +Djungar.--A West Mongolian tribe. + +Dugun.--Chinese commercial and military post. + +Dzuk.--Lie down! + +Fang-tzu.--Chinese for "house." + +Fatil.--A very rare and precious root much prized in Chinese and Tibetan +medicines. + +Felcher.--Assistant of a doctor (surgeon). + +Gelong.--Lamaite priest having the right to offer sacrifices to God. + +Getul.--The third rank in the Lamaite monks. + +Goro.--The high priest of the King of the World. + +Hatyk.--An oblong piece of blue (or yellow) silk cloth, presented to +honored guests, chiefs, Lamas and gods. Also a kind of coin, worth from +25 to 50 cents. + +Hong.--A Chinese mercantile establishment. + +Hun.--The lowest rank of princes. + +Hunghutze.--Chinese brigand. + +Hushun.--A fenced enclosure, containing the houses, paddocks, stores, +stables, etc., of Russian Cossacks in Mongolia. + +Hutuktu.--The highest rank of Lamaite monks; the form of any incarnated +god; holy. + +Imouran.--A small rodent like a gopher. + +Izubr.--The American elk. + +Kabarga.--The musk antelope. + +Kalmuck.--A Mongolian tribe, which migrated from Mongolia under Jenghiz +Khan (where they were known as the Olets or Eleuths), and now live in +the Urals and on the shores of the Volga in Russia. + +Kanpo.--The abbot of a Lamaite monastery, a monk; also the first rank of +"white" clergy (not monks). + +Kanpo-Gelong.--The highest rank of Gelongs (q.v.); an honorary title. + +Karma.--The Buddhist materialization of the idea of Fate, a parallel +with the Greek and Roman Nemesis (Justice). + +Khan.--A king. + +Khayrus.--A kind of trout. + +Khirghiz.--The great Mongol nation living between the river Irtish in +western Siberia, Lake Balhash and the Volga in Russia. + +Kuropatka.--A partridge. + +Lama.--The common name for a Lamaite priest. + +Lan.--A weight of silver or gold equivalent to about one-eleventh of a +Russian pound, or 9/110ths of a pound avoirdupois. + +Lanhon.--A round bottle of clay. + +Maramba.--A doctor of theology. + +Merin.--The civil chief of police in every district of the Soyot country +in Urianhai. + +"Om! Mani padme Hung!".--"Om" has two meanings. It is the name of the +first Goro and also means: "Hail!" In this connection: "Hail! Great Lama +in the Lotus Flower!" + +Mende.--Soyot greeting--"Good Day." + +Nagan-hushun.--A Chinese vegetable garden or enclosure in Mongolia. + +Naida.--A form of fire used by Siberian woodsmen. + +Noyon.--A Prince or Khan. In polite address: "Chief," "Excellency." + +Obo.--The sacred and propitiatory signs in all the dangerous places in +Urianhai and Mongolia. + +Olets.--Vid: Kalmuck. + +Om.--The name of the first Goro (q.v.) and also of the mysterious, magic +science of the Subterranean State. It means, also: "Hail!" + +Orochons.--A Mongolian tribe, living near the shores of the Amur River +in Siberia. + +Oulatchen.--The guard for the post horses; official guide. + +Ourton.--A post station, where the travelers change horses and +oulatchens. + +Pandita.--The high rank of Buddhist monks. + +Panti.--Deer horns in the velvet, highly prized as a Tibetan and Chinese +medicine. + +Pogrom.--A wholesale slaughter of unarmed people; a massacre. + +Paspa.--The founder of the Yellow Sect, predominating now in the Lamaite +faith. + +Sait.--A Mongolian governor. + +Salga.--A sand partridge. + +Sayn.--"Good day!" "Good morning!" "Good evening!" All right; good. + +Taiga.--A Siberian word for forest. + +Taimen.--A species of big trout, reaching 120 pounds. + +Ta Lama.--Literally: "the great priest," but it means now "a doctor of +medicine." + +Tashur.--A strong bamboo stick. + +Turpan.--The red wild goose or Lama-goose. + +Tzagan.--White. + +Tzara.--A document, giving the right to receive horses and oulatchens at +the post stations. + +Tsirik.--Mongolian soldiers mobilized by levy. + +Tzuren.--A doctor-poisoner. + +Ulan.--Red. + +Urga.--The name of the capital of Mongolia; (2) a kind of Mongolian +lasso. + +Vatannen.--The language of the Subterranean State of the King of the +World. + +Wapiti.--The American elk. + +Yurta.--The common Mongolian tent or house, made of felt. + +Zahachine.--A West Mongolian wandering tribe. + +Zaberega.--The ice-mountains formed along the shores of a river in +spring. + +Zikkurat.--A high tower of Babylonish style. + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's Beasts, Men and Gods, by Ferdinand Ossendowski + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BEASTS, MEN AND GODS *** + +***** This file should be named 2067.txt or 2067.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/2/0/6/2067/ + +Produced by Donald Lainson + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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FOR PUBLIC DOMAIN ETEXTS*Ver.04.29.93*END* + + + + + +This etext was prepared by Donald Lainson, charlie@idirect.com. + + + + + +BEASTS, MEN AND GODS + +by Ferdinand Ossendowski + + + + +EXPLANATORY NOTE + + +When one of the leading publicists in America, Dr. Albert Shaw of +the Review of Reviews, after reading the manuscript of Part I of +this volume, characterized the author as "The Robinson Crusoe of +the Twentieth Century," he touched the feature of the narrative +which is at once most attractive and most dangerous; for the +succession of trying and thrilling experiences recorded seems in +places too highly colored to be real or, sometimes, even possible +in this day and generation. I desire, therefore, to assure the +reader at the outset that Dr. Ossendowski is a man of long and +diverse experience as a scientist and writer with a training for +careful observation which should put the stamp of accuracy and +reliability on his chronicle. Only the extraordinary events of +these extraordinary times could have thrown one with so many +talents back into the surroundings of the "Cave Man" and thus given +to us this unusual account of personal adventure, of great human +mysteries and of the political and religious motives which are +energizing the "Heart of Asia." + +My share in the work has been to induce Dr. Ossendowski to write +his story at this time and to assist him in rendering his +experiences into English. + +LEWIS STANTON PALEN. + + + + +CONTENTS + + +PART I. DRAWING LOTS WITH DEATH + + +CHAPTER + +I. INTO THE FORESTS + +II. THE SECRET OF MY FELLOW TRAVELER + +III. THE STRUGGLE FOR LIFE + +IV. A FISHERMAN + +V. A DANGEROUS NEIGHBOR + +VI. A RIVER IN TRAVAIL + +VII. THROUGH SOVIET SIBERIA + +VIII. THREE DAYS ON THE EDGE OF A PRECIPICE + +IX. TO THE SAYANS AND SAFETY + +X. THE BATTLE OF THE SEYBI + +XI. THE BARRIER OF RED PARTISANS + +XII. IN THE COUNTRY OF ETERNAL PEACE + +XIII. MYSTERIES, MIRACLES AND A NEW FIGHT + +XIV. THE RIVER OF THE DEVIL + +XV. THE MARCH OF GHOSTS + +XVI. IN MYSTERIOUS TIBET + + + +PART II. THE LAND OF DEMONS + + +XVII. MYSTERIOUS MONGOLIA + +XVIII. THE MYSTERIOUS LAMA AVENGER + +XIX. WILD CHAHARS + +XX. THE DEMON OF JAGISSTAI + +XXI. THE NEST OF DEATH + +XXII. AMONG THE MURDERERS + +XXIII. ON A VOLCANO + +XXIV. A BLOODY CHASTISEMENT + +XXV. HARASSING DAYS + +XXVI. THE BAND OF WHITE HUNGHUTZES + +XXVII. MYSTERY IN A SMALL TEMPLE + +XXVIII. THE BREATH OF DEATH + + + +PART III. THE STRAINING HEART OF ASIA + + +XXIX. ON THE ROAD OF GREAT CONQUERORS + +XXX. ARRESTED! + +XXXI. TRAVELING BY "URGA" + +XXXII. AN OLD FORTUNE TELLER + +XXXIII. "DEATH FROM THE WHITE MAN WILL STAND BEHIND YOU" + +XXXIV. THE HORROR OF WAR! + +XXXV. IN THE CITY OF LIVING GODS, 30,000 BUDDHAS AND 60,000 MONKS + +XXXVI. A SON OF CRUSADERS AND PRIVATEERS + +XXXVII. THE CAMP OF MARTYRS + +XXXVIII. BEFORE THE FACE OF BUDDHA + +XXXIX. "THE MAN WITH A HEAD LIKE A SADDLE" + + + +PART IV. THE LIVING BUDDHA + + +XL. IN THE BLISSFUL GARDEN OF A THOUSAND JOYS + +XLI. THE DUST OF CENTURIES + +XLII. THE BOOKS OF MIRACLES + +XLIII. THE BIRTH OF THE LIVING BUDDHA + +XLIV. A PAGE IN THE HISTORY OF THE PRESENT LIVING BUDDHA + +XLV. THE VISION OF THE LIVING BUDDHA OF MAY 17, 1921 + + + +PART V. MYSTERY OF MYSTERIES--THE KING OF THE WORLD + + +XLVI. THE SUBTERRANEAN KINGDOM + +XLVII. THE KING OF THE WORLD BEFORE THE FACE OF GOD + +XLVIII. REALITY OR RELIGIOUS FANTASY? + +XLIX. THE PROPHECY OF THE KING OF THE WORLD IN 1890 + + + + +There are times, men and events about which History alone can +record the final judgments; contemporaries and individual observers +must only write what they have seen and heard. The very truth +demands it. + +TITUS LIVIUS. + + + + +BEASTS, MEN AND GODS + + + +Part I + +DRAWING LOTS WITH DEATH + + +CHAPTER I + +INTO THE FORESTS + + +In the beginning of the year 1920 I happened to be living in the +Siberian town of Krasnoyarsk, situated on the shores of the River +Yenisei, that noble stream which is cradled in the sun-bathed +mountains of Mongolia to pour its warming life into the Arctic +Ocean and to whose mouth Nansen has twice come to open the shortest +road for commerce from Europe to the heart of Asia. There in the +depths of the still Siberian winter I was suddenly caught up in the +whirling storm of mad revolution raging all over Russia, sowing in +this peaceful and rich land vengeance, hate, bloodshed and crimes +that go unpunished by the law. No one could tell the hour of his +fate. The people lived from day to day and left their homes not +knowing whether they should return to them or whether they should +be dragged from the streets and thrown into the dungeons of that +travesty of courts, the Revolutionary Committee, more terrible and +more bloody than those of the Mediaeval Inquisition. We who were +strangers in this distraught land were not saved from its +persecutions and I personally lived through them. + +One morning, when I had gone out to see a friend, I suddenly +received the news that twenty Red soldiers had surrounded my house +to arrest me and that I must escape. I quickly put on one of my +friend's old hunting suits, took some money and hurried away on +foot along the back ways of the town till I struck the open road, +where I engaged a peasant, who in four hours had driven me twenty +miles from the town and set me down in the midst of a deeply +forested region. On the way I bought a rifle, three hundred +cartridges, an ax, a knife, a sheepskin overcoat, tea, salt, dry +bread and a kettle. I penetrated into the heart of the wood to an +abandoned half-burned hut. From this day I became a genuine +trapper but I never dreamed that I should follow this role as long +as I did. The next morning I went hunting and had the good fortune +to kill two heathcock. I found deer tracks in plenty and felt sure +that I should not want for food. However, my sojourn in this place +was not for long. Five days later when I returned from hunting I +noticed smoke curling up out of the chimney of my hut. I +stealthily crept along closer to the cabin and discovered two +saddled horses with soldiers' rifles slung to the saddles. Two +disarmed men were not dangerous for me with a weapon, so I quickly +rushed across the open and entered the hut. From the bench two +soldiers started up in fright. They were Bolsheviki. On their big +Astrakhan caps I made out the red stars of Bolshevism and on their +blouses the dirty red bands. We greeted each other and sat down. +The soldiers had already prepared tea and so we drank this ever +welcome hot beverage and chatted, suspiciously eyeing one another +the while. To disarm this suspicion on their part, I told them +that I was a hunter from a distant place and was living there +because I found it good country for sables. They announced to me +that they were soldiers of a detachment sent from a town into the +woods to pursue all suspicious people. + +"Do you understand, 'Comrade,'" said one of them to me, "we are +looking for counter-revolutionists to shoot them?" + +I knew it without his explanations. All my forces were directed to +assuring them by my conduct that I was a simple peasant hunter and +that I had nothing in common with the counter-revolutionists. I +was thinking also all the time of where I should go after the +departure of my unwelcome guests. It grew dark. In the darkness +their faces were even less attractive. They took out bottles of +vodka and drank and the alcohol began to act very noticeably. They +talked loudly and constantly interrupted each other, boasting how +many bourgeoisie they had killed in Krasnoyarsk and how many +Cossacks they had slid under the ice in the river. Afterwards they +began to quarrel but soon they were tired and prepared to sleep. +All of a sudden and without any warning the door of the hut swung +wide open and the steam of the heated room rolled out in a great +cloud, out of which seemed to rise like a genie, as the steam +settled, the figure of a tall, gaunt peasant impressively crowned +with the high Astrakhan cap and wrapped in the great sheepskin +overcoat that added to the massiveness of his figure. He stood +with his rifle ready to fire. Under his girdle lay the sharp ax +without which the Siberian peasant cannot exist. Eyes, quick and +glimmering like those of a wild beast, fixed themselves alternately +on each of us. In a moment he took off his cap, made the sign of +the cross on his breast and asked of us: "Who is the master here?" + +I answered him. + +"May I stop the night?" + +"Yes," I replied, "places enough for all. Take a cup of tea. It +is still hot." + +The stranger, running his eyes constantly over all of us and over +everything about the room, began to take off his skin coat after +putting his rifle in the corner. He was dressed in an old leather +blouse with trousers of the same material tucked in high felt +boots. His face was quite young, fine and tinged with something +akin to mockery. His white, sharp teeth glimmered as his eyes +penetrated everything they rested upon. I noticed the locks of +grey in his shaggy head. Lines of bitterness circled his mouth. +They showed his life had been very stormy and full of danger. He +took a seat beside his rifle and laid his ax on the floor below. + +"What? Is it your wife?" asked one of the drunken soldiers, +pointing to the ax. + +The tall peasant looked calmly at him from the quiet eyes under +their heavy brows and as calmly answered: + +"One meets a different folk these days and with an ax it is much +safer." + +He began to drink tea very greedily, while his eyes looked at me +many times with sharp inquiry in them and ran often round the whole +cabin in search of the answer to his doubts. Very slowly and with +a guarded drawl he answered all the questions of the soldiers +between gulps of the hot tea, then he turned his glass upside down +as evidence of having finished, placed on the top of it the small +lump of sugar left and remarked to the soldiers: + +"I am going out to look after my horse and will unsaddle your +horses for you also." + +"All right," exclaimed the half-sleeping young soldier, "bring in +our rifles as well." + +The soldiers were lying on the benches and thus left for us only +the floor. The stranger soon came back, brought the rifles and set +them in the dark corner. He dropped the saddle pads on the floor, +sat down on them and began to take off his boots. The soldiers and +my guest soon were snoring but I did not sleep for thinking of what +next to do. Finally as dawn was breaking, I dozed off only to +awake in the broad daylight and find my stranger gone. I went +outside the hut and discovered him saddling a fine bay stallion. + +"Are you going away?" I asked. + +"Yes, but I want to go together with these ---- comrades,'" he +whispered, "and afterwards I shall come back." + +I did not ask him anything further and told him only that I would +wait for him. He took off the bags that had been hanging on his +saddle, put them away out of sight in the burned corner of the +cabin, looked over the stirrups and bridle and, as he finished +saddling, smiled and said: + +"I am ready. I'm going to awake my 'comrades.'" Half an hour +after the morning drink of tea, my three guests took their leave. +I remained out of doors and was engaged in splitting wood for my +stove. Suddenly, from a distance, rifle shots rang through the +woods, first one, then a second. Afterwards all was still. From +the place near the shots a frightened covey of blackcock broke and +came over me. At the top of a high pine a jay cried out. I +listened for a long time to see if anyone was approaching my hut +but everything was still. + +On the lower Yenisei it grows dark very early. I built a fire in +my stove and began to cook my soup, constantly listening for every +noise that came from beyond the cabin walls. Certainly I +understood at all times very clearly that death was ever beside me +and might claim me by means of either man, beast, cold, accident or +disease. I knew that nobody was near me to assist and that all my +help was in the hands of God, in the power of my hands and feet, in +the accuracy of my aim and in my presence of mind. However, I +listened in vain. I did not notice the return of my stranger. +Like yesterday he appeared all at once on the threshold. Through +the steam I made out his laughing eyes and his fine face. He +stepped into the hut and dropped with a good deal of noise three +rifles into the corner. + +"Two horses, two rifles, two saddles, two boxes of dry bread, half +a brick of tea, a small bag of salt, fifty cartridges, two +overcoats, two pairs of boots," laughingly he counted out. "In +truth today I had a very successful hunt." + +In astonishment I looked at him. + +"What are you surprised at?" he laughed. "Komu nujny eti +tovarischi? Who's got any use for these fellows? Let us have tea +and go to sleep. Tomorrow I will guide you to another safer place +and then go on." + + +CHAPTER II + +THE SECRET OF MY FELLOW TRAVELER + + +At the dawn of day we started forth, leaving my first place of +refuge. Into the bags we packed our personal estate and fastened +them on one of the saddles. + +"We must go four or five hundred versts," very calmly announced my +fellow traveler, who called himself "Ivan," a name that meant +nothing to my mind or heart in this land where every second man +bore the same. + +"We shall travel then for a very long time," I remarked +regretfully. + +"Not more than one week, perhaps even less," he answered. + +That night we spent in the woods under the wide spreading branches +of the fir trees. It was my first night in the forest under the +open sky. How many like this I was destined to spend in the year +and a half of my wanderings! During the day there was very sharp +cold. Under the hoofs of the horses the frozen snow crunched and +the balls that formed and broke from their hoofs rolled away over +the crust with a sound like crackling glass. The heathcock flew +from the trees very idly, hares loped slowly down the beds of +summer streams. At night the wind began to sigh and whistle as it +bent the tops of the trees over our heads; while below it was still +and calm. We stopped in a deep ravine bordered by heavy trees, +where we found fallen firs, cut them into logs for the fire and, +after having boiled our tea, dined. + +Ivan dragged in two tree trunks, squared them on one side with his +ax, laid one on the other with the squared faces together and then +drove in a big wedge at the butt ends which separated them three or +four inches. Then we placed live coals in this opening and watched +the fire run rapidly the whole length of the squared faces vis-a- +vis. + +"Now there will be a fire in the morning," he announced. "This is +the 'naida' of the gold prospectors. We prospectors wandering in +the woods summer and winter always sleep beside this 'naida.' +Fine! You shall see for yourself," he continued. + +He cut fir branches and made a sloping roof out of them, resting it +on two uprights toward the naida. Above our roof of boughs and our +naida spread the branches of protecting fir. More branches were +brought and spread on the snow under the roof, on these were placed +the saddle cloths and together they made a seat for Ivan to rest on +and to take off his outer garments down to his blouse. Soon I +noticed his forehead was wet with perspiration and that he was +wiping it and his neck on his sleeves. + +"Now it is good and warm!" he exclaimed. + +In a short time I was also forced to take off my overcoat and soon +lay down to sleep without any covering at all, while through the +branches of the fir trees and our roof glimmered the cold bright +stars and just beyond the naida raged a stinging cold, from which +we were cosily defended. After this night I was no longer +frightened by the cold. Frozen during the days on horseback, I was +thoroughly warmed through by the genial naida at night and rested +from my heavy overcoat, sitting only in my blouse under the roofs +of pine and fir and sipping the ever welcome tea. + +During our daily treks Ivan related to me the stories of his +wanderings through the mountains and woods of Transbaikalia in the +search for gold. These stories were very lively, full of +attractive adventure, danger and struggle. Ivan was a type of +these prospectors who have discovered in Russia, and perhaps in +other countries, the richest gold mines, while they themselves +remain beggars. He evaded telling me why he left Transbaikalia to +come to the Yenisei. I understood from his manner that he wished +to keep his own counsel and so did not press him. However, the +blanket of secrecy covering this part of his mysterious life was +one day quite fortuitously lifted a bit. We were already at the +objective point of our trip. The whole day we had traveled with +difficulty through a thick growth of willow, approaching the shore +of the big right branch of the Yenisei, the Mana. Everywhere we +saw runways packed hard by the feet of the hares living in this +bush. These small white denizens of the wood ran to and fro in +front of us. Another time we saw the red tail of a fox hiding +behind a rock, watching us and the unsuspecting hares at the same +time. + +Ivan had been silent for a long while. Then he spoke up and told +me that not far from there was a small branch of the Mana, at the +mouth of which was a hut. + +"What do you say? Shall we push on there or spend the night by the +naida?" + +I suggested going to the hut, because I wanted to wash and because +it would be agreeable to spend the night under a genuine roof +again. Ivan knitted his brows but acceded. + +It was growing dark when we approached a hut surrounded by the +dense wood and wild raspberry bushes. It contained one small room +with two microscopic windows and a gigantic Russian stove. Against +the building were the remains of a shed and a cellar. We fired the +stove and prepared our modest dinner. Ivan drank from the bottle +inherited from the soldiers and in a short time was very eloquent, +with brilliant eyes and with hands that coursed frequently and +rapidly through his long locks. He began relating to me the story +of one of his adventures, but suddenly stopped and, with fear in +his eyes, squinted into a dark corner. + +"Is it a rat?" he asked. + +"I did not see anything," I replied. + +He again became silent and reflected with knitted brow. Often we +were silent through long hours and consequently I was not +astonished. Ivan leaned over near to me and began to whisper. + +"I want to tell you an old story. I had a friend in Transbaikalia. +He was a banished convict. His name was Gavronsky. Through many +woods and over many mountains we traveled in search of gold and we +had an agreement to divide all we got into even shares. But +Gavronsky suddenly went out to the 'Taiga' on the Yenisei and +disappeared. After five years we heard that he had found a very +rich gold mine and had become a rich man; then later that he and +his wife with him had been murdered. . . ." Ivan was still for a +moment and then continued: + +"This is their old hut. Here he lived with his wife and somewhere +on this river he took out his gold. But he told nobody where. All +the peasants around here know that he had a lot of money in the +bank and that he had been selling gold to the Government. Here +they were murdered." + +Ivan stepped to the stove, took out a flaming stick and, bending +over, lighted a spot on the floor. + +"Do you see these spots on the floor and on the wall? It is their +blood, the blood of Gavronsky. They died but they did not disclose +the whereabouts of the gold. It was taken out of a deep hole which +they had drifted into the bank of the river and was hidden in the +cellar under the shed. But Gavronsky gave nothing away. . . . AND +LORD HOW I TORTURED THEM! I burned them with fire; I bent back +their fingers; I gouged out their eyes; but Gavronsky died in +silence." + +He thought for a moment, then quickly said to me: + +"I have heard all this from the peasants." He threw the log into +the stove and flopped down on the bench. "It's time to sleep," he +snapped out, and was still. + +I listened for a long time to his breathing and his whispering to +himself, as he turned from one side to the other and smoked his +pipe. + +In the morning we left this scene of so much suffering and crime +and on the seventh day of our journey we came to the dense cedar +wood growing on the foothills of a long chain of mountains. + +"From here," Ivan explained to me, "it is eighty versts to the next +peasant settlement. The people come to these woods to gather cedar +nuts but only in the autumn. Before then you will not meet anyone. +Also you will find many birds and beasts and a plentiful supply of +nuts, so that it will be possible for you to live here. Do you see +this river? When you want to find the peasants, follow along this +stream and it will guide you to them." + +Ivan helped me build my mud hut. But it was not the genuine mud +hut. It was one formed by the tearing out of the roots of a great +cedar, that had probably fallen in some wild storm, which made for +me the deep hole as the room for my house and flanked this on one +side with a wall of mud held fast among the upturned roots. +Overhanging ones formed also the framework into which we interlaced +the poles and branches to make a roof, finished off with stones for +stability and snow for warmth. The front of the hut was ever open +but was constantly protected by the guardian naida. In that snow- +covered den I spent two months like summer without seeing any other +human being and without touch with the outer world where such +important events were transpiring. In that grave under the roots +of the fallen tree I lived before the face of nature with my trials +and my anxiety about my family as my constant companions, and in +the hard struggle for my life. Ivan went off the second day, +leaving for me a bag of dry bread and a little sugar. I never saw +him again. + + +CHAPTER III + +THE STRUGGLE FOR LIFE + + +Then I was alone. Around me only the wood of eternally green +cedars covered with snow, the bare bushes, the frozen river and, as +far as I could see out through the branches and the trunks of the +trees, only the great ocean of cedars and snow. Siberian taiga! +How long shall I be forced to live here? Will the Bolsheviki find +me here or not? Will my friends know where I am? What is +happening to my family? These questions were constantly as burning +fires in my brain. Soon I understood why Ivan guided me so long. +We passed many secluded places on the journey, far away from all +people, where Ivan could have safely left me but he always said +that he would take me to a place where it would be easier to live. +And it was so. The charm of my lone refuge was in the cedar wood +and in the mountains covered with these forests which stretched to +every horizon. The cedar is a splendid, powerful tree with wide- +spreading branches, an eternally green tent, attracting to its +shelter every living being. Among the cedars was always +effervescent life. There the squirrels were continually kicking up +a row, jumping from tree to tree; the nut-jobbers cried shrilly; a +flock of bullfinches with carmine breasts swept through the trees +like a flame; or a small army of goldfinches broke in and filled +the amphitheatre of trees with their whistling; a hare scooted from +one tree trunk to another and behind him stole up the hardly +visible shadow of a white ermine, crawling on the snow, and I +watched for a long time the black spot which I knew to be the tip +of his tail; carefully treading the hard crusted snow approached a +noble deer; at last there visited me from the top of the mountain +the king of the Siberian forest, the brown bear. All this +distracted me and carried away the black thoughts from my brain, +encouraging me to persevere. It was good for me also, though +difficult, to climb to the top of my mountain, which reached up out +of the forest and from which I could look away to the range of red +on the horizon. It was the red cliff on the farther bank of the +Yenisei. There lay the country, the towns, the enemies and the +friends; and there was even the point which I located as the place +of my family. It was the reason why Ivan had guided me here. And +as the days in this solitude slipped by I began to miss sorely this +companion who, though the murderer of Gavronsky, had taken care of +me like a father, always saddling my horse for me, cutting the wood +and doing everything to make me comfortable. He had spent many +winters alone with nothing except his thoughts, face to face with +nature--I should say, before the face of God. He had tried the +horrors of solitude and had acquired facility in bearing them. I +thought sometimes, if I had to meet my end in this place, that I +would spend my last strength to drag myself to the top of the +mountain to die there, looking away over the infinite sea of +mountains and forest toward the point where my loved ones were. + +However, the same life gave me much matter for reflection and yet +more occupation for the physical side. It was a continuous +struggle for existence, hard and severe. The hardest work was the +preparation of the big logs for the naida. The fallen trunks of +the trees were covered with snow and frozen to the ground. I was +forced to dig them out and afterwards, with the help of a long +stick as a lever, to move them from their place. For facilitating +this work I chose the mountain for my supplies, where, although +difficult to climb, it was easy to roll the logs down. Soon I made +a splendid discovery. I found near my den a great quantity of +larch, this beautiful yet sad forest giant, fallen during a big +storm. The trunks were covered with snow but remained attached to +their stumps, where they had broken off. When I cut into these +stumps with the ax, the head buried itself and could with +difficulty be drawn and, investigating the reason, I found them +filled with pitch. Chips of this wood needed only a spark to set +them aflame and ever afterward I always had a stock of them to +light up quickly for warming my hands on returning from the hunt or +for boiling my tea. + +The greater part of my days was occupied with the hunt. I came to +understand that I must distribute my work over every day, for it +distracted me from my sad and depressing thoughts. Generally, +after my morning tea, I went into the forest to seek heathcock or +blackcock. After killing one or two I began to prepare my dinner, +which never had an extensive menu. It was constantly game soup +with a handful of dried bread and afterwards endless cups of tea, +this essential beverage of the woods. Once, during my search for +birds, I heard a rustle in the dense shrubs and, carefully peering +about, I discovered the points of a deer's horns. I crawled along +toward the spot but the watchful animal heard my approach. With a +great noise he rushed from the bush and I saw him very clearly, +after he had run about three hundred steps, stop on the slope of +the mountain. It was a splendid animal with dark grey coat, with +almost a black spine and as large as a small cow. I laid my rifle +across a branch and fired. The animal made a great leap, ran +several steps and fell. With all my strength I ran to him but he +got up again and half jumped, half dragged himself up the mountain. +The second shot stopped him. I had won a warm carpet for my den +and a large stock of meat. The horns I fastened up among the +branches of my wall, where they made a fine hat rack. + +I cannot forget one very interesting but wild picture, which was +staged for me several kilometres from my den. There was a small +swamp covered with grass and cranberries scattered through it, +where the blackcock and sand partridges usually came to feed on the +berries. I approached noiselessly behind the bushes and saw a +whole flock of blackcock scratching in the snow and picking out the +berries. While I was surveying this scene, suddenly one of the +blackcock jumped up and the rest of the frightened flock +immediately flew away. To my astonishment the first bird began +going straight up in a spiral flight and afterwards dropped +directly down dead. When I approached there sprang from the body +of the slain cock a rapacious ermine that hid under the trunk of a +fallen tree. The bird's neck was badly torn. I then understood +that the ermine had charged the cock, fastened itself on his neck +and had been carried by the bird into the air, as he sucked the +blood from its throat, and had been the cause of the heavy fall +back to the earth. Thanks to his aeronautic ability I saved one +cartridge. + +So I lived fighting for the morrow and more and more poisoned by +hard and bitter thoughts. The days and weeks passed and soon I +felt the breath of warmer winds. On the open places the snow began +to thaw. In spots the little rivulets of water appeared. Another +day I saw a fly or a spider awakened after the hard winter. The +spring was coming. I realized that in spring it was impossible to +go out from the forest. Every river overflowed its banks; the +swamps became impassable; all the runways of the animals turned +into beds for streams of running water. I understood that until +summer I was condemned to a continuation of my solitude. Spring +very quickly came into her rights and soon my mountain was free +from snow and was covered only with stones, the trunks of birch and +aspen trees and the high cones of ant hills; the river in places +broke its covering of ice and was coursing full with foam and +bubbles. + + +CHAPTER IV + +A FISHERMAN + + +One day during the hunt, I approached the bank of the river and +noticed many very large fish with red backs, as though filled with +blood. They were swimming on the surface enjoying the rays of the +sun. When the river was entirely free from ice, these fish +appeared in enormous quantities. Soon I realized that they were +working up-stream for the spawning season in the smaller rivers. I +thought to use a plundering method of catching, forbidden by the +law of all countries; but all the lawyers and legislators should be +lenient to one who lives in a den under the roots of a fallen tree +and dares to break their rational laws. + +Gathering many thin birch and aspen trees I built in the bed of the +stream a weir which the fish could not pass and soon I found them +trying to jump over it. Near the bank I left a hole in my barrier +about eighteen inches below the surface and fastened on the up- +stream side a high basket plaited from soft willow twigs, into +which the fish came as they passed the hole. Then I stood cruelly +by and hit them on the head with a strong stick. All my catch were +over thirty pounds, some more than eighty. This variety of fish is +called the taimen, is of the trout family and is the best in the +Yenisei. + +After two weeks the fish had passed and my basket gave me no more +treasure, so I began anew the hunt. + + +CHAPTER V + +A DANGEROUS NEIGHBOR + + +The hunt became more and more profitable and enjoyable, as spring +animated everything. In the morning at the break of day the forest +was full of voices, strange and undiscernible to the inhabitant of +the town. There the heathcock clucked and sang his song of love, +as he sat on the top branches of the cedar and admired the grey hen +scratching in the fallen leaves below. It was very easy to +approach this full-feathered Caruso and with a shot to bring him +down from his more poetic to his more utilitarian duties. His +going out was an euthanasia, for he was in love and heard nothing. +Out in the clearing the blackcocks with their wide-spread spotted +tails were fighting, while the hens strutting near, craning and +chattering, probably some gossip about their fighting swains, +watched and were delighted with them. From the distance flowed in +a stern and deep roar, yet full of tenderness and love, the mating +call of the deer; while from the crags above came down the short +and broken voice of the mountain buck. Among the bushes frolicked +the hares and often near them a red fox lay flattened to the ground +watching his chance. I never heard any wolves and they are usually +not found in the Siberian regions covered with mountains and +forest. + +But there was another beast, who was my neighbor, and one of us had to go +away. One day, coming back from the hunt with a big heathcock, I +suddenly noticed among the trees a black, moving mass. I stopped +and, looking very attentively, saw a bear, digging away at an ant- +hill. Smelling me, he snorted violently, and very quickly shuffled +away, astonishing me with the speed of his clumsy gait. The +following morning, while still lying under my overcoat, I was +attracted by a noise behind my den. I peered out very carefully +and discovered the bear. He stood on his hind legs and was noisily +sniffing, investigating the question as to what living creature had +adopted the custom of the bears of housing during the winter under +the trunks of fallen trees. I shouted and struck my kettle with +the ax. My early visitor made off with all his energy; but his +visit did not please me. It was very early in the spring that this +occurred and the bear should not yet have left his hibernating +place. He was the so-called "ant-eater," an abnormal type of bear +lacking in all the etiquette of the first families of the bear +clan. + +I knew that the "ant-eaters" were very irritable and audacious and +quickly I prepared myself for both the defence and the charge. My +preparations were short. I rubbed off the ends of five of my +cartridges, thus making dum-dums out of them, a sufficiently +intelligible argument for so unwelcome a guest. Putting on my coat +I went to the place where I had first met the bear and where there +were many ant-hills. I made a detour of the whole mountain, looked +in all the ravines but nowhere found my caller. Disappointed and +tired, I was approaching my shelter quite off my guard when I +suddenly discovered the king of the forest himself just coming out +of my lowly dwelling and sniffing all around the entrance to it. I +shot. The bullet pierced his side. He roared with pain and anger +and stood up on his hind legs. As the second bullet broke one of +these, he squatted down but immediately, dragging the leg and +endeavoring to stand upright, moved to attack me. Only the third +bullet in his breast stopped him. He weighed about two hundred to +two hundred fifty pounds, as near as I could guess, and was very +tasty. He appeared at his best in cutlets but only a little less +wonderful in the Hamburg steaks which I rolled and roasted on hot +stones, watching them swell out into great balls that were as light +as the finest souffle omelettes we used to have at the "Medved" in +Petrograd. On this welcome addition to my larder I lived from then +until the ground dried out and the stream ran down enough so that I +could travel down along the river to the country whither Ivan had +directed me. + +Ever traveling with the greatest precautions I made the journey +down along the river on foot, carrying from my winter quarters all +my household furniture and goods, wrapped up in the deerskin bag +which I formed by tying the legs together in an awkward knot; and +thus laden fording the small streams and wading through the swamps +that lay across my path. After fifty odd miles of this I came to +the country called Sifkova, where I found the cabin of a peasant +named Tropoff, located closest to the forest that came to be my +natural environment. With him I lived for a time. + + * * * * * + +Now in these unimaginable surroundings of safety and peace, summing +up the total of my experience in the Siberian taiga, I make the +following deductions. In every healthy spiritual individual of our +times, occasions of necessity resurrect the traits of primitive +man, hunter and warrior, and help him in the struggle with nature. +It is the prerogative of the man with the trained mind and spirit +over the untrained, who does not possess sufficient science and +will power to carry him through. But the price that the cultured +man must pay is that for him there exists nothing more awful than +absolute solitude and the knowledge of complete isolation from +human society and the life of moral and aesthetic culture. One +step, one moment of weakness and dark madness will seize a man and +carry him to inevitable destruction. I spent awful days of +struggle with the cold and hunger but I passed more terrible days +in the struggle of the will to kill weakening destructive thoughts. +The memories of these days freeze my heart and mind and even now, +as I revive them so clearly by writing of my experiences, they +throw me back into a state of fear and apprehension. Moreover, I +am compelled to observe that the people in highly civilized states +give too little regard to the training that is useful to man in +primitive conditions, in conditions incident to the struggle +against nature for existence. It is the single normal way to +develop a new generation of strong, healthy, iron men, with at the +same time sensitive souls. + +Nature destroys the weak but helps the strong, awakening in the +soul emotions which remain dormant under the urban conditions of +modern life. + + +CHAPTER VI + +A RIVER IN TRAVAIL + + +My presence in the Sifkova country was not for long but I used it +in full measure. First, I sent a man in whom I had confidence and +whom I considered trustworthy to my friends in the town that I had +left and received from them linen, boots, money and a small case of +first aid materials and essential medicines, and, what was most +important, a passport in another name, since I was dead for the +Bolsheviki. Secondly, in these more or less favorable conditions I +reflected upon the plan for my future actions. Soon in Sifkova the +people heard that the Bolshevik commissar would come for the +requisition of cattle for the Red Army. It was dangerous to remain +longer. I waited only until the Yenisei should lose its massive +lock of ice, which kept it sealed long after the small rivulets had +opened and the trees had taken on their spring foliage. For one +thousand roubles I engaged a fisherman who agreed to take me fifty- +five miles up the river to an abandoned gold mine as soon as the +river, which had then only opened in places, should be entirely +clear of ice. At last one morning I heard a deafening roar like a +tremendous cannonade and ran out to find the river had lifted its +great bulk of ice and then given way to break it up. I rushed on +down to the bank, where I witnessed an awe-inspiring but +magnificent scene. The river had brought down the great volume of +ice that had been dislodged in the south and was carrying it +northward under the thick layer which still covered parts of the +stream until finally its weight had broken the winter dam to the +north and released the whole grand mass in one last rush for the +Arctic. The Yenisei, "Father Yenisei," "Hero Yenisei," is one of +the longest rivers in Asia, deep and magnificent, especially +through the middle range of its course, where it is flanked and +held in canyon-like by great towering ranges. The huge stream had +brought down whole miles of ice fields, breaking them up on the +rapids and on isolated rocks, twisting them with angry swirls, +throwing up sections of the black winter roads, carrying down the +tepees built for the use of passing caravans which in the Winter +always go from Minnusinsk to Krasnoyarsk on the frozen river. From +time to time the stream stopped in its flow, the roar began and the +great fields of ice were squeezed and piled upward, sometimes as +high as thirty feet, damming up the water behind, so that it +rapidly rose and ran out over the low places, casting on the shore +great masses of ice. Then the power of the reinforced waters +conquered the towering dam of ice and carried it downward with a +sound like breaking glass. At the bends in the river and round the +great rocks developed terrifying chaos. Huge blocks of ice jammed +and jostled until some were thrown clear into the air, crashing +against others already there, or were hurled against the curving +cliffs and banks, tearing out boulders, earth and trees high up the +sides. All along the low embankments this giant of nature flung +upward with a suddenness that leaves man but a pigmy in force a +great wall of ice fifteen to twenty feet high, which the peasants +call "Zaberega" and through which they cannot get to the river +without cutting out a road. One incredible feat I saw the giant +perform, when a block many feet thick and many yards square was +hurled through the air and dropped to crush saplings and little +trees more than a half hundred feet from the bank. + +Watching this glorious withdrawal of the ice, I was filled with +terror and revolt at seeing the awful spoils which the Yenisei bore +away in this annual retreat. These were the bodies of the executed +counter-revolutionaries--officers, soldiers and Cossacks of the +former army of the Superior Governor of all anti-Bolshevik Russia, +Admiral Kolchak. They were the results of the bloody work of the +"Cheka" at Minnusinsk. Hundreds of these bodies with heads and +hands cut off, with mutilated faces and bodies half burned, with +broken skulls, floated and mingled with the blocks of ice, looking +for their graves; or, turning in the furious whirlpools among the +jagged blocks, they were ground and torn to pieces into shapeless +masses, which the river, nauseated with its task, vomited out upon +the islands and projecting sand bars. I passed the whole length of +the middle Yenisei and constantly came across these putrifying and +terrifying reminders of the work of the Bolsheviki. In one place +at a turn of the river I saw a great heap of horses, which had been +cast up by the ice and current, in number not less than three +hundred. A verst below there I was sickened beyond endurance by +the discovery of a grove of willows along the bank which had raked +from the polluted stream and held in their finger-like drooping +branches human bodies in all shapes and attitudes with a semblance +of naturalness which made an everlasting picture on my distraught +mind. Of this pitiful gruesome company I counted seventy. + +At last the mountain of ice passed by, followed by the muddy +freshets that carried down the trunks of fallen trees, logs and +bodies, bodies, bodies. The fisherman and his son put me and my +luggage into their dugout made from an aspen tree and poled +upstream along the bank. Poling in a swift current is very hard +work. At the sharp curves we were compelled to row, struggling +against the force of the stream and even in places hugging the +cliffs and making headway only by clutching the rocks with our +hands and dragging along slowly. Sometimes it took us a long while +to do five or six metres through these rapid holes. In two days we +reached the goal of our journey. I spent several days in this gold +mine, where the watchman and his family were living. As they were +short of food, they had nothing to spare for me and consequently my +rifle again served to nourish me, as well as contributing something +to my hosts. One day there appeared here a trained +agriculturalist. I did not hide because during my winter in the +woods I had raised a heavy beard, so that probably my own mother +could not have recognized me. However, our guest was very shrewd +and at once deciphered me. I did not fear him because I saw that +he was not a Bolshevik and later had confirmation of this. We +found common acquaintances and a common viewpoint on current +events. He lived close to the gold mine in a small village where +he superintended public works. We determined to escape together +from Russia. For a long time I had puzzled over this matter and +now my plan was ready. Knowing the position in Siberia and its +geography, I decided that the best way to safety was through +Urianhai, the northern part of Mongolia on the head waters of the +Yenisei, then through Mongolia and out to the Far East and the +Pacific. Before the overthrow of the Kolchak Government I had +received a commission to investigate Urianhai and Western Mongolia +and then, with great accuracy, I studied all the maps and +literature I could get on this question. To accomplish this +audacious plan I had the great incentive of my own safety. + + +CHAPTER VII + +THROUGH SOVIET SIBERIA + + +After several days we started through the forest on the left bank +of the Yenisei toward the south, avoiding the villages as much as +possible in fear of leaving some trail by which we might be +followed. Whenever we did have to go into them, we had a good +reception at the hands of the peasants, who did not penetrate our +disguise; and we saw that they hated the Bolsheviki, who had +destroyed many of their villages. In one place we were told that a +detachment of Red troops had been sent out from Minnusinsk to chase +the Whites. We were forced to work far back from the shore of the +Yenisei and to hide in the woods and mountains. Here we remained +nearly a fortnight, because all this time the Red soldiers were +traversing the country and capturing in the woods half-dressed +unarmed officers who were in hiding from the atrocious vengeance of +the Bolsheviki. Afterwards by accident we passed a meadow where we +found the bodies of twenty-eight officers hung to the trees, with +their faces and bodies mutilated. There we determined never to +allow ourselves to come alive into the hands of the Boisheviki. To +prevent this we had our weapons and a supply of cyanide of +potassium. + +Passing across one branch of the Yenisei, once we saw a narrow, +miry pass, the entrance to which was strewn with the bodies of men +and horses. A little farther along we found a broken sleigh with +rifled boxes and papers scattered about. Near them were also torn +garments and bodies. Who were these pitiful ones? What tragedy +was staged in this wild wood? We tried to guess this enigma and we +began to investigate the documents and papers. These were official +papers addressed to the Staff of General Pepelaieff. Probably one +part of the Staff during the retreat of Kolchak's army went through +this wood, striving to hide from the enemy approaching from all +sides; but here they were caught by the Reds and killed. Not far +from here we found the body of a poor unfortunate woman, whose +condition proved clearly what had happened before relief came +through the beneficent bullet. The body lay beside a shelter of +branches, strewn with bottles and conserve tins, telling the tale +of the bantering feast that had preceded the destruction of this +life. + +The further we went to the south, the more pronouncedly hospitable +the people became toward us and the more hostile to the Bolsheviki. +At last we emerged from the forests and entered the spacious +vastness of the Minnusinsk steppes, crossed by the high red +mountain range called the "Kizill-Kaiya" and dotted here and there +with salt lakes. It is a country of tombs, thousands of large and +small dolmens, the tombs of the earliest proprietors of this land: +pyramids of stone ten metres high, the marks set by Jenghiz Khan +along his road of conquest and afterwards by the cripple Tamerlane- +Temur. Thousands of these dolmens and stone pyramids stretch in +endless rows to the north. In these plains the Tartars now live. +They were robbed by the Bolsheviki and therefore hated them +ardently. We openly told them that we were escaping. They gave us +food for nothing and supplied us with guides, telling us with whom +we might stop and where to hide in case of danger. + +After several days we looked down from the high bank of the Yenisei +upon the first steamer, the "Oriol," from Krasnoyarsk to +Minnusinsk, laden with Red soldiers. Soon we came to the mouth of +the river Tuba, which we were to follow straight east to the Sayan +mountains, where Urianhai begins. We thought the stage along the +Tuba and its branch, the Amyl, the most dangerous part of our +course, because the valleys of these two rivers had a dense +population which had contributed large numbers of soldiers to the +celebrated Communist Partisans, Schetinkin and Krafcheno. + +A Tartar ferried us and our horses over to the right bank of the +Yenisei and afterwards sent us some Cossacks at daybreak who guided +us to the mouth of the Tuba, where we spent the whole day in rest, +gratifying ourselves with a feast of wild black currants and +cherries. + + +CHAPTER VIII + +THREE DAYS ON THE EDGE OF A PRECIPICE + + +Armed with our false passports, we moved along up the valley of the +Tuba. Every ten or fifteen versts we came across large villages of +from one to six hundred houses, where all administration was in the +hands of Soviets and where spies scrutinized all passers-by. We +could not avoid these villages for two reasons. First, our +attempts to avoid them when we were constantly meeting the peasants +in the country would have aroused suspicion and would have caused +any Soviet to arrest us and send us to the "Cheka" in Minnusinsk, +where we should have sung our last song. Secondly, in his +documents my fellow traveler was granted permission to use the +government post relays for forwarding him on his journey. +Therefore, we were forced to visit the village Soviets and change +our horses. Our own mounts we had given to the Tartar and Cossack +who helped us at the mouth of the Tuba, and the Cossack brought us +in his wagon to the first village, where we received the post +horses. All except a small minority of the peasants were against +the Bolsheviki and voluntarily assisted us. I paid them for their +help by treating their sick and my fellow traveler gave them +practical advice in the management of their agriculture. Those who +helped us chiefly were the old dissenters and the Cossacks. + +Sometimes we came across villages entirely Communistic but very +soon we learned to distinguish them. When we entered a village +with our horse bells tinkling and found the peasants who happened +to be sitting in front of their houses ready to get up with a frown +and a grumble that here were more new devils coming, we knew that +this was a village opposed to the Communists and that here we could +stop in safety. But, if the peasants approached and greeted us +with pleasure, calling us "Comrades," we knew at once that we were +among the enemy and took great precautions. Such villages were +inhabited by people who were not the Siberian liberty-loving +peasants but by emigrants from the Ukraine, idle and drunk, living +in poor dirty huts, though their village were surrounded with the +black and fertile soil of the steppes. Very dangerous and pleasant +moments we spent in the large village of Karatuz. It is rather a +town. In the year 1912 two colleges were opened here and the +population reached 15,000 people. It is the capital of the South +Yenisei Cossacks. But by now it is very difficult to recognize +this town. The peasant emigrants and Red army murdered all the +Cossack population and destroyed and burned most of the houses; and +it is at present the center of Bolshevism and Communism in the +eastern part of the Minnusinsk district. In the building of the +Soviet, where we came to exchange our horses, there was being held +a meeting of the "Cheka." We were immediately surrounded and +questioned about our documents. We were not any too calm about the +impression which might be made by our papers and attempted to avoid +this examination. My fellow traveler afterwards often said to me: + +"It is great good fortune that among the Bolsheviki the good-for- +nothing shoemaker of yesterday is the Governor of today and +scientists sweep the streets or clean the stables of the Red +cavalry. I can talk with the Bolsheviki because they do not know +the difference between 'disinfection' and 'diphtheria,' +'anthracite' and 'appendicitis' and can talk them round in all +things, even up to persuading them not to put a bullet into me." + +And so we talked the members of the "Cheka" round to everything +that we wanted. We presented to them a bright scheme for the +future development of their district, when we would build the roads +and bridges which would allow them to export the wood from +Urianhai, iron and gold from the Sayan Mountains, cattle and furs +from Mongolia. What a triumph of creative work for the Soviet +Government! Our ode occupied about an hour and afterwards the +members of the "Cheka," forgetting about our documents, personally +changed our horses, placed our luggage on the wagon and wished us +success. It was the last ordeal within the borders of Russia. + +When we had crossed the valley of the river Amyl, Happiness smiled +on us. Near the ferry we met a member of the militia from Karatuz. +He had on his wagon several rifles and automatic pistols, mostly +Mausers, for outfitting an expedition through Urianhai in quest of +some Cossack officers who had been greatly troubling the +Bolsheviki. We stood upon our guard. We could very easily have +met this expedition and we were not quite assured that the soldiers +would be so appreciative of our high-sounding phrases as were the +members of the "Cheka." Carefully questioning the militiaman, we +ferreted out the route their expedition was to take. In the next +village we stayed in the same house with him. I had to open my +luggage and suddenly I noticed his admiring glance fixed upon my +bag. + +"What pleases you so much?" I asked. + +He whispered: "Trousers . . . Trousers." + +I had received from my townsmen quite new trousers of black thick +cloth for riding. Those trousers attracted the rapt attention of +the militiaman. + +"If you have no other trousers. . . ." I remarked, reflecting upon +my plan of attack against my new friend. + +"No," he explained with sadness, "the Soviet does not furnish +trousers. They tell me they also go without trousers. And my +trousers are absolutely worn out. Look at them." + +With these words he threw back the corner of his overcoat and I was +astonished how he could keep himself inside these trousers, for +they had such large holes that they were more of a net than +trousers, a net through which a small shark could have slipped. + +"Sell me," he whispered, with a question in his voice. + +"I cannot, for I need them myself," I answered decisively. + +He reflected for a few minutes and afterward, approaching me, said: +"Let us go out doors and talk. Here it is inconvenient." + +We went outside. "Now, what about it?" he began. "You are going +into Urianhai. There the Soviet bank-notes have no value and you +will not be able to buy anything, where there are plenty of sables, +fox-skins, ermine and gold dust to be purchased, which they very +willingly exchange for rifles and cartridges. You have each of you +a rifle and I will give you one more rifle with a hundred +cartridges if you give me the trousers." + +"We do not need weapons. We are protected by our documents," I +answered, as though I did not understand. + +"But no," he interrupted, "you can change that rifle there into +furs and gold. I shall give you that rifle outright." + +"Ah, that's it, is it? But it's very little for those trousers. +Nowhere in Russia can you now find trousers. All Russia goes +without trousers and for your rifle I should receive a sable and +what use to me is one skin?" + +Word by word I attained to my desire. The militia-man got my +trousers and I received a rifle with one hundred cartridges and two +automatic pistols with forty cartridges each. We were armed now so +that we could defend ourselves. Moreover, I persuaded the happy +possessor of my trousers to give us a permit to carry the weapons. +Then the law and force were both on our side. + +In a distant village we bought three horses, two for riding and one +for packing, engaged a guide, purchased dried bread, meat, salt and +butter and, after resting twenty-four hours, began our trip up the +Amyl toward the Sayan Mountains on the border of Urianhai. There +we hoped not to meet Bolsheviki, either sly or silly. In three +days from the mouth of the Tuba we passed the last Russian village +near the Mongolian-Urianhai border, three days of constant contact +with a lawless population, of continuous danger and of the ever +present possibility of fortuitous death. Only iron will power, +presence of mind and dogged tenacity brought us through all the +dangers and saved us from rolling back down our precipice of +adventure, at whose foot lay so many others who had failed to make +this same climb to freedom which we had just accomplished. Perhaps +they lacked the persistence or the presence of mind, perhaps they +had not the poetic ability to sing odes about "roads, bridges and +gold mines" or perhaps they simply had no spare trousers. + + +CHAPTER IX + +TO THE SAYANS AND SAFETY + + +Dense virgin wood surrounded us. In the high, already yellow grass +the trail wound hardly noticeable in among bushes and trees just +beginning to drop their many colored leaves. It is the old, +already forgotten Amyl pass road. Twenty-five years ago it carried +the provisions, machinery and workers for the numerous, now +abandoned, gold mines of the Amyl valley. The road now wound along +the wide and rapid Amyl, then penetrated into the deep forest, +guiding us round the swampy ground filled with those dangerous +Siberian quagmires, through the dense bushes, across mountains and +wide meadows. Our guide probably did not surmise our real +intention and sometimes, apprehensively looking down at the ground, +would say: + +"Three riders on horses with shoes on have passed here. Perhaps +they were soldiers." + +His anxiety was terminated when he discovered that the tracks led +off to one side and then returned to the trail. + +"They did not proceed farther," he remarked, slyly smiling. + +"That's too bad," we answered. "It would have been more lively to +travel in company." + +But the peasant only stroked his beard and laughed. Evidently he +was not taken in by our statement. + +We passed on the way a gold mine that had been formerly planned and +equipped on splendid lines but was now abandoned and the buildings +all destroyed. The Bolsheviki had taken away the machinery, +supplies and also some parts of the buildings. Nearby stood a dark +and gloomy church with windows broken, the crucifix torn off and +the tower burned, a pitifully typical emblem of the Russia of +today. The starving family of the watchman lived at the mine in +continuing danger and privation. They told us that in this forest +region were wandering about a band of Reds who were robbing +anything that remained on the property of the gold mine, were +working the pay dirt in the richest part of the mine and, with a +little gold washed, were going to drink and gamble it away in some +distant villages where the peasants were making the forbidden vodka +out of berries and potatoes and selling it for its weight in gold. +A meeting with this band meant death. After three days we crossed +the northern ridge of the Sayan chain, passed the border river +Algiak and, after this day, were abroad in the territory of +Urianhai. + +This wonderful land, rich in most diverse forms of natural wealth, +is inhabited by a branch of the Mongols, which is now only sixty +thousand and which is gradually dying off, speaking a language +quite different from any of the other dialects of this folk and +holding as their life ideal the tenet of "Eternal Peace." Urianhai +long ago became the scene of administrative attempts by Russians, +Mongols and Chinese, all of whom claimed sovereignty over the +region whose unfortunate inhabitants, the Soyots, had to pay +tribute to all three of these overlords. It was due to this that +the land was not an entirely safe refuge for us. We had heard +already from our militiaman about the expedition preparing to go +into Urianhai and from the peasants we learned that the villages +along the Little Yenisei and farther south had formed Red +detachments, who were robbing and killing everyone who fell into +their hands. Recently they had killed sixty-two officers +attempting to pass Urianhai into Mongolia; robbed and killed a +caravan of Chinese merchants; and killed some German war prisoners +who escaped from the Soviet paradise. On the fourth day we reached +a swampy valley where, among open forests, stood a single Russian +house. Here we took leave of our guide, who hastened away to get +back before the snows should block his road over the Sayans. The +master of the establishment agreed to guide us to the Seybi River +for ten thousand roubles in Soviet notes. Our horses were tired +and we were forced to give them a rest, so we decided to spend +twenty-four hours here. + +We were drinking tea when the daughter of our host cried: + +"The Soyots are coming!" Into the room with their rifles and +pointed hats came suddenly four of them. + +"Mende," they grunted to us and then, without ceremony, began +examining us critically. Not a button or a seam in our entire +outfit escaped their penetrating gaze. Afterwards one of them, who +appeared to be the local "Merin" or governor, began to investigate +our political views. Listening to our criticisms of the +Bolsheviki, he was evidently pleased and began talking freely. + +"You are good people. You do not like Bolsheviki. We will help +you." + +I thanked him and presented him with the thick silk cord which I +was wearing as a girdle. Before night they left us saying that +they would return in the morning. It grew dark. We went to the +meadow to look after our exhausted horses grazing there and came +back to the house. We were gaily chatting with the hospitable host +when suddenly we heard horses' hoofs in the court and raucous +voices, followed by the immediate entry of five Red soldiers armed +with rifles and swords. Something unpleasant and cold rolled up +into my throat and my heart hammered. We knew the Reds as our +enemies. These men had the red stars on their Astrakhan caps and +red triangles on their sleeves. They were members of the +detachment that was out to look for Cossack officers. Scowling at +us they took off their overcoats and sat down. We first opened the +conversation, explaining the purpose of our journey in exploring +for bridges, roads and gold mines. From them we then learned that +their commander would arrive in a little while with seven more men +and that they would take our host at once as a guide to the Seybi +River, where they thought the Cossack officers must be hidden. +Immediately I remarked that our affairs were moving fortunately and +that we must travel along together. One of the soldiers replied +that that would depend upon the "Comrade-officer." + +During our conversation the Soyot Governor entered. Very +attentively he studied again the new arrivals and then asked: "Why +did you take from the Soyots the good horses and leave bad ones?" + +The soldiers laughed at him. + +"Remember that you are in a foreign country!" answered the Soyot, +with a threat in his voice. + +"God and the Devil!" cried one of the soldiers. + +But the Soyot very calmly took a seat at the table and accepted the +cup of tea the hostess was preparing for him. The conversation +ceased. The Soyot finished the tea, smoked his long pipe and, +standing up, said: + +"If tomorrow morning the horses are not back at the owner's, we +shall come and take them." And with these words he turned and went +out. + +I noticed an expression of apprehension on the faces of the +soldiers. Shortly one was sent out as a messenger while the others +sat silent with bowed heads. Late in the night the officer arrived +with his other seven men. As he received the report about the +Soyot, he knitted his brows and said: + +"It's a bad mess. We must travel through the swamp where a Soyot +will be behind every mound watching us." + +He seemed really very anxious and his trouble fortunately prevented +him from paying much attention to us. I began to calm him and +promised on the morrow to arrange this matter with the Soyots. The +officer was a coarse brute and a silly man, desiring strongly to be +promoted for the capture of the Cossack officers, and feared that +the Soyot could prevent him from reaching the Seybi. + +At daybreak we started together with the Red detachment. When we +had made about fifteen kilometers, we discovered behind the bushes +two riders. They were Soyots. On their backs were their flint +rifles. + +"Wait for me!" I said to the officer. "I shall go for a parley +with them." + +I went forward with all the speed of my horse. One of the horsemen +was the Soyot Governor, who said to me: + +"Remain behind the detachment and help us." + +"All right," I answered, "but let us talk a little, in order that +they may think we are parleying." + +After a moment I shook the hand of the Soyot and returned to the +soldiers. + +"All right," I exclaimed, "we can continue our journey. No +hindrance will come from the Soyots." + +We moved forward and, when we were crossing a large meadow, we +espied at a long distance two Soyots riding at full gallop right up +the side of a mountain. Step by step I accomplished the necessary +manoeuvre to bring me and my fellow traveler somewhat behind the +detachment. Behind our backs remained only one soldier, very +brutish in appearance and apparently very hostile to us. I had +time to whisper to my companion only one word: "Mauser," and saw +that he very carefully unbuttoned the saddle bag and drew out a +little the handle of his pistol. + +Soon I understood why these soldiers, excellent woodsmen as they +were, would not attempt to go to the Seybi without a guide. All +the country between the Algiak and the Seybi is formed by high and +narrow mountain ridges separated by deep swampy valleys. It is a +cursed and dangerous place. At first our horses mired to the +knees, lunging about and catching their feet in the roots of bushes +in the quagmires, then falling and pinning us under their sides, +breaking parts of their saddles and bridles. Then we would go in +up to the riders' knees. My horse went down once with his whole +breast and head under the red fluid mud and we just saved it and no +more. Afterwards the officer's horse fell with him so that he +bruised his head on a stone. My companion injured one knee against +a tree. Some of the men also fell and were injured. The horses +breathed heavily. Somewhere dimly and gloomily a crow cawed. +Later the road became worse still. The trail followed through the +same miry swamp but everywhere the road was blocked with fallen +tree trunks. The horses, jumping over the trunks, would land in an +unexpectedly deep hole and flounder. We and all the soldiers were +covered with blood and mud and were in great fear of exhausting our +mounts. For a long distance we had to get down and lead them. At +last we entered a broad meadow covered with bushes and bordered +with rocks. Not only horses but riders also began to sink to their +middle in a quagmire with apparently no bottom. The whole surface +of the meadow was but a thin layer of turf, covering a lake with +black putrefying water. When we finally learned to open our column +and proceed at big intervals, we found we could keep on this +surface that undulated like rubber ice and swayed the bushes up and +down. In places the earth buckled up and broke. + +Suddenly, three shots sounded. They were hardly more than the +report of a Flobert rifle; but they were genuine shots, because the +officer and two soldiers fell to the ground. The other soldiers +grabbed their rifles and, with fear, looked about for the enemy. +Four more were soon unseated and suddenly I noticed our rearguard +brute raise his rifle and aim right at me. However, my Mauser +outstrode his rifle and I was allowed to continue my story. + +"Begin!" I cried to my friend and we took part in the shooting. +Soon the meadow began to swarm with Soyots, stripping the fallen, +dividing the spoils and recapturing their horses. In some forms of +warfare it is never safe to leave any of the enemy to renew +hostilities later with overwhelming forces. + +After an hour of very difficult road we began to ascend the +mountain and soon arrived on a high plateau covered with trees. + +"After all, Soyots are not a too peaceful people," I remarked, +approaching the Governor. + +He looked at me very sharply and replied: + +"It was not Soyots who did the killing." + +He was right. It was the Abakan Tartars in Soyot clothes who +killed the Bolsheviki. These Tartars were running their herds of +cattle and horses down out of Russia through Urianhai to Mongolia. +They had as their guide and negotiator a Kalmuck Lamaite. The +following morning we were approaching a small settlement of Russian +colonists and noticed some horsemen looking out from the woods. +One of our young and brave Tartars galloped off at full speed +toward these men in the wood but soon wheeled and returned with a +reassuring smile. + +"All right," he exclaimed, laughing, "keep right on." + +We continued our travel on a good broad road along a high wooden +fence surrounding a meadow filled with a fine herd of wapiti or +izubr, which the Russian colonists breed for the horns that are so +valuable in the velvet for sale to Tibetan and Chinese medicine +dealers. These horns, when boiled and dried, are called panti and +are sold to the Chinese at very high prices. + +We were received with great fear by the settlers. + +"Thank God!" exclaimed the hostess, "we thought. . ." and she broke +off, looking at her husband. + + +CHAPTER X + +THE BATTLE ON THE SEYBI + + +Constant dangers develop one's watchfulness and keenness of +perception. We did not take off our clothes nor unsaddle our +horses, tired as we were. I put my Mauser inside my coat and began +to look about and scrutinize the people. The first thing I +discovered was the butt end of a rifle under the pile of pillows +always found on the peasants' large beds. Later I noticed the +employees of our host constantly coming into the room for orders +from him. They did not look like simple peasants, although they +had long beards and were dressed very dirtily. They examined me +with very attentive eyes and did not leave me and my friend alone +with the host. We could not, however, make out anything. But then +the Soyot Governor came in and, noticing our strained relations, +began explaining in the Soyot language to the host all about us. + +"I beg your pardon," the colonist said, "but you know yourself that +now for one honest man we have ten thousand murderers and robbers." + +With this we began chatting more freely. It appeared that our host +knew that a band of Bolsheviki would attack him in the search for +the band of Cossack officers who were living in his house on and +off. He had heard also about the "total loss" of one detachment. +However, it did not entirely calm the old man to have our news, for +he had heard of the large detachment of Reds that was coming from +the border of the Usinsky District in pursuit of the Tartars who +were escaping with their cattle south to Mongolia. + +"From one minute to another we are awaiting them with fear," said +our host to me. "My Soyot has come in and announced that the Reds +are already crossing the Seybi and the Tartars are prepared for the +fight." + +We immediately went out to look over our saddles and packs and then +took the horses and hid them in the bushes not far off. We made +ready our rifles and pistols and took posts in the enclosure to +wait for our common enemy. An hour of trying impatience passed, +when one of the workmen came running in from the wood and +whispered: + +"They are crossing our swamp. . . . The fight is on." + +In fact, like an answer to his words, came through the woods the +sound of a single rifle-shot, followed closely by the increasing +rat-tat-tat of the mingled guns. Nearer to the house the sounds +gradually came. Soon we heard the beating of the horses' hoofs and +the brutish cries of the soldiers. In a moment three of them burst +into the house, from off the road where they were being raked now +by the Tartars from both directions, cursing violently. One of +them shot at our host. He stumbled along and fell on his knee, as +his hand reached out toward the rifle under his pillows. + +"Who are YOU?" brutally blurted out one of the soldiers, turning to +us and raising his rifle. We answered with Mausers and +successfully, for only one soldier in the rear by the door escaped, +and that merely to fall into the hands of a workman in the +courtyard who strangled him. The fight had begun. The soldiers +called on their comrades for help. The Reds were strung along in +the ditch at the side of the road, three hundred paces from the +house, returning the fire of the surrounding Tartars. Several +soldiers ran to the house to help their comrades but this time we +heard the regular volley of the workmen of our host. They fired as +though in a manoeuvre calmly and accurately. Five Red soldiers lay +on the road, while the rest now kept to their ditch. Before long +we discovered that they began crouching and crawling out toward the +end of the ditch nearest the wood where they had left their horses. +The sounds of shots became more and more distant and soon we saw +fifty or sixty Tartars pursuing the Reds across the meadow. + +Two days we rested here on the Seybi. The workmen of our host, +eight in number, turned out to be officers hiding from the +Bolsheviks. They asked permission to go on with us, to which we +agreed. + +When my friend and I continued our trip we had a guard of eight +armed officers and three horses with packs. We crossed a beautiful +valley between the Rivers Seybi and Ut. Everywhere we saw splendid +grazing lands with numerous herds upon them, but in two or three +houses along the road we did not find anyone living. All had +hidden away in fear after hearing the sounds of the fight with the +Reds. The following day we went up over the high chain of +mountains called Daban and, traversing a great area of burned +timber where our trail lay among the fallen trees, we began to +descend into a valley hidden from us by the intervening foothills. +There behind these hills flowed the Little Yenisei, the last large +river before reaching Mongolia proper. About ten kilometers from +the river we spied a column of smoke rising up out of the wood. +Two of the officers slipped away to make an investigation. For a +long time they did not return and we, fearful lest something had +happened, moved off carefully in the direction of the smoke, all +ready for a fight if necessary. We finally came near enough to +hear the voices of many people and among them the loud laugh of one +of our scouts. In the middle of a meadow we made out a large tent +with two tepees of branches and around these a crowd of fifty or +sixty men. When we broke out of the forest all of them rushed +forward with a joyful welcome for us. It appeared that it was a +large camp of Russian officers and soldiers who, after their escape +from Siberia, had lived in the houses of the Russian colonists and +rich peasants in Urianhai. + +"What are you doing here?" we asked with surprise. + +"Oh, ho, you know nothing at all about what has been going on?" +replied a fairly old man who called himself Colonel Ostrovsky. "In +Urianhai an order has been issued from the Military Commissioner to +mobilize all men over twenty-eight years of age and everywhere +toward the town of Belotzarsk are moving detachments of these +Partisans. They are robbing the colonists and peasants and killing +everyone that falls into their hands. We are hiding here from +them." + +The whole camp counted only sixteen rifles and three bombs, +belonging to a Tartar who was traveling with his Kalmuck guide to +his herds in Western Mongolia. We explained the aim of our journey +and our intention to pass through Mongolia to the nearest port on +the Pacific. The officers asked me to bring them out with us. I +agreed. Our reconnaissance proved to us that there were no +Partisans near the house of the peasant who was to ferry us over +the Little Yenisei. We moved off at once in order to pass as +quickly as possible this dangerous zone of the Yenisei and to sink +ourselves into the forest beyond. It snowed but immediately +thawed. Before evening a cold north wind sprang up, bringing with +it a small blizzard. Late in the night our party reached the +river. Our colonist welcomed us and offered at once to ferry us +over and swim the horses, although there was ice still floating +which had come down from the head-waters of the stream. During +this conversation there was present one of the peasant's workmen, +red-haired and squint-eyed. He kept moving around all the time and +suddenly disappeared. Our host noticed it and, with fear in his +voice, said: + +"He has run to the village and will guide the Partisans here. We +must cross immediately." + +Then began the most terrible night of my whole journey. We +proposed to the colonist that he take only our food and ammunition +in the boat, while we would swim our horses across, in order to +save the time of the many trips. The width of the Yenisei in this +place is about three hundred metres. The stream is very rapid and +the shore breaks away abruptly to the full depth of the stream. +The night was absolutely dark with not a star in the sky. The wind +in whistling swirls drove the snow and sleet sharply against our +faces. Before us flowed the stream of black, rapid water, carrying +down thin, jagged blocks of ice, twisting and grinding in the +whirls and eddies. For a long time my horse refused to take the +plunge down the steep bank, snorted and braced himself. With all +my strength I lashed him with my whip across his neck until, with a +pitiful groan, he threw himself into the cold stream. We both went +all the way under and I hardly kept my seat in the saddle. Soon I +was some metres from the shore with my horse stretching his head +and neck far forward in his efforts and snorting and blowing +incessantly. I felt the every motion of his feet churning the +water and the quivering of his whole body under me in this trial. +At last we reached the middle of the river, where the current +became exceedingly rapid and began to carry us down with it. Out +of the ominous darkness I heard the shoutings of my companions and +the dull cries of fear and suffering from the horses. I was chest +deep in the icy water. Sometimes the floating blocks struck me; +sometimes the waves broke up over my head and face. I had no time +to look about or to feel the cold. The animal wish to live took +possession of me; I became filled with the thought that, if my +horse's strength failed in his struggle with the stream, I must +perish. All my attention was turned to his efforts and to his +quivering fear. Suddenly he groaned loudly and I noticed he was +sinking. The water evidently was over his nostrils, because the +intervals of his frightened snorts through the nostrils became +longer. A big block of ice struck his head and turned him so that +he was swimming right downstream. With difficulty I reined him +around toward the shore but felt now that his force was gone. His +head several times disappeared under the swirling surface. I had +no choice. I slipped from the saddle and, holding this by my left +hand, swam with my right beside my mount, encouraging him with my +shouts. For a time he floated with lips apart and his teeth set +firm. In his widely opened eyes was indescribable fear. As soon +as I was out of the saddle, he had at once risen in the water and +swam more calmly and rapidly. At last under the hoofs of my +exhausted animal I heard the stones. One after another my +companions came up on the shore. The well-trained horses had +brought all their burdens over. Much farther down our colonist +landed with the supplies. Without a moment's loss we packed our +things on the horses and continued our journey. The wind was +growing stronger and colder. At the dawn of day the cold was +intense. Our soaked clothes froze and became hard as leather; our +teeth chattered; and in our eyes showed the red fires of fever: but +we traveled on to put as much space as we could between ourselves +and the Partisans. Passing about fifteen kilometres through the +forest we emerged into an open valley, from which we could see the +opposite bank of the Yenisei. It was about eight o'clock. Along +the road on the other shore wound the black serpent-like line of +riders and wagons which we made out to be a column of Red soldiers +with their transport. We dismounted and hid in the bushes in order +to avoid attracting their attention. + +All the day with the thermometer at zero and below we continued our +journey, only at night reaching the mountains covered with larch +forests, where we made big fires, dried our clothes and warmed +ourselves thoroughly. The hungry horses did not leave the fires +but stood right behind us with drooped heads and slept. Very early +in the morning several Soyots came to our camp. + +"Ulan? (Red?)" asked one of them. + +"No! No!" exclaimed all our company. + +"Tzagan? (White?)" followed the new question. + +"Yes, yes," said the Tartar, "all are Whites." + +"Mende! Mende!" they grunted and, after starting their cups of +tea, began to relate very interesting and important news. It +appeared that the Red Partisans, moving from the mountains Tannu +Ola, occupied with their outposts all the border of Mongolia to +stop and seize the peasants and Soyots driving out their cattle. +To pass the Tannu Ola now would be impossible. I saw only one way-- +to turn sharp to the southeast, pass the swampy valley of the +Buret Hei and reach the south shore of Lake Kosogol, which is +already in the territory of Mongolia proper. It was very +unpleasant news. To the first Mongol post in Samgaltai was not +more than sixty miles from our camp, while to Kosogol by the +shortest line not less than two hundred seventy-five. The horses +my friend and I were riding, after having traveled more than six +hundred miles over hard roads and without proper food or rest, +could scarcely make such an additional distance. But, reflecting +upon the situation and studying my new fellow travelers, I +determined not to attempt to pass the Tannu Ola. They were +nervous, morally weary men, badly dressed and armed and most of +them were without weapons. I knew that during a fight there is no +danger so great as that of disarmed men. They are easily caught by +panic, lose their heads and infect all the others. Therefore, I +consulted with my friends and decided to go to Kosogol. Our +company agreed to follow us. After luncheon, consisting of soup +with big lumps of meat, dry bread and tea, we moved out. About two +o'clock the mountains began to rise up before us. They were the +northeast outspurs of the Tannu Ola, behind which lay the Valley of +Buret Hei. + + +CHAPTER XI + +THE BARRIER OF RED PARTISANS + + +In a valley between two sharp ridges we discovered a herd of yaks +and cattle being rapidly driven off to the north by ten mounted +Soyots. Approaching us warily they finally revealed that Noyon +(Prince) of Todji had ordered them to drive the herds along the +Buret Hei into Mongolia, apprehending the pillaging of the Red +Partisans. They proceeded but were informed by some Soyot hunters +that this part of the Tannu Ola was occupied by the Partisans from +the village of Vladimirovka. Consequently they were forced to +return. We inquired from them the whereabouts of these outposts +and how many Partisans were holding the mountain pass over into +Mongolia. We sent out the Tartar and the Kalmuck for a +reconnaissance while all of us prepared for the further advance by +wrapping the feet of our horses in our shirts and by muzzling their +noses with straps and bits of rope so that they could not neigh. +It was dark when our investigators returned and reported to us that +about thirty Partisans had a camp some ten kilometers from us, +occupying the yurtas of the Soyots. At the pass were two outposts, +one of two soldiers and the other of three. From the outposts to +the camp was a little over a mile. Our trail lay between the two +outposts. From the top of the mountain one could plainly see the +two posts and could shoot them all. When we had come near to the +top of this mountain, I left our party and, taking with me my +friend, the Tartar, the Kalmuck and two of the young officers, +advanced. From the mountain I saw about five hundred yards ahead +two fires. At each of the fires sat a soldier with his rifle and +the others slept. I did not want to fight with the Partisans but +we had to do away with these outposts and that without firing or we +never should get through the pass. I did not believe the Partisans +could afterwards track us because the whole trail was thickly +marked with the spoors of horses and cattle. + +"I shall take for my share these two," whispered my friend, +pointing to the left outpost. + +The rest of us were to take care of the second post. I crept along +through the bushes behind my friend in order to help him in case of +need; but I am bound to admit that I was not at all worried about +him. He was about seven feet tall and so strong that, when a horse +used to refuse sometimes to take the bit, he would wrap his arm +around its neck, kick its forefeet out from under it and throw it +so that he could easily bridle it on the ground. When only a +hundred paces remained, I stood behind the bushes and watched. I +could see very distinctly the fire and the dozing sentinel. He sat +with his rifle on his knees. His companion, asleep beside him, did +not move. Their white felt boots were plainly visible to me. For +a long time I did not remark my friend. At the fire all was quiet. +Suddenly from the other outpost floated over a few dim shouts and +all was still. Our sentinel slowly raised his head. But just at +this moment the huge body of my friend rose up and blanketed the +fire from me and in a twinkling the feet of the sentinel flashed +through the air, as my companion had seized him by the throat and +swung him clear into the bushes, where both figures disappeared. +In a second he re-appeared, flourished the rifle of the Partisan +over his head and I heard the dull blow which was followed by an +absolute calm. He came back toward me and, confusedly smiling, +said: + +"It is done. God and the Devil! When I was a boy, my mother +wanted to make a priest out of me. When I grew up, I became a +trained agronome in order . . . to strangle the people and smash +their skulls. Revolution is a very stupid thing!" + +And with anger and disgust he spit and began to smoke his pipe. + +At the other outpost also all was finished. During this night we +reached the top of the Tannu Ola and descended again into a valley +covered with dense bushes and twined with a whole network of small +rivers and streams. It was the headwaters of the Buret Hei. About +one o'clock we stopped and began to feed our horses, as the grass +just there was very good. Here we thought ourselves in safety. We +saw many calming indications. On the mountains were seen the +grazing herds of reindeers and yaks and approaching Soyots +confirmed our supposition. Here behind the Tannu Ola the Soyots +had not seen the Red soldiers. We presented to these Soyots a +brick of tea and saw them depart happy and sure that we were +"Tzagan," a "good people." + +While our horses rested and grazed on the well-preserved grass, we +sat by the fire and deliberated upon our further progress. There +developed a sharp controversy between two sections of our company, +one led by a Colonel who with four officers were so impressed by +the absence of Reds south of the Tannu Ola that they determined to +work westward to Kobdo and then on to the camp on the Emil River +where the Chinese authorities had interned six thousand of the +forces of General Bakitch, which had come over into Mongolian +territory. My friend and I with sixteen of the officers chose to +carry through our old plan to strike for the shores of Lake Kosogol +and thence out to the Far East. As neither side could persuade the +other to abandon its ideas, our company was divided and the next +day at noon we took leave of one another. It turned out that our +own wing of eighteen had many fights and difficulties on the way, +which cost us the lives of six of our comrades, but that the +remainder of us came through to the goal of our journey so closely +knit by the ties of devotion which fighting and struggling for our +very lives entailed that we have ever preserved for one another the +warmest feelings of friendship. The other group under Colonel +Jukoff perished. He met a big detachment of Red cavalry and was +defeated by them in two fights. Only two officers escaped. They +related to me this sad news and the details of the fights when we +met four months later in Urga. + +Our band of eighteen riders with five packhorses moved up the +valley of the Buret Hei. We floundered in the swamps, passed +innumerable miry streams, were frozen by the cold winds and were +soaked through by the snow and sleet; but we persisted +indefatigably toward the south end of Kosogol. As a guide our +Tartar led us confidently over these trails well marked by the feet +of many cattle being run out of Urianhai to Mongolia. + + +CHAPTER XII + +IN THE COUNTRY OF ETERNAL PEACE + + +The inhabitants of Urianhai, the Soyots, are proud of being the +genuine Buddhists and of retaining the pure doctrine of holy Rama +and the deep wisdom of Sakkia-Mouni. They are the eternal enemies +of war and of the shedding of blood. Away back in the thirteenth +century they preferred to move out from their native land and take +refuge in the north rather than fight or become a part of the +empire of the bloody conqueror Jenghiz Khan, who wanted to add to +his forces these wonderful horsemen and skilled archers. Three +times in their history they have thus trekked northward to avoid +struggle and now no one can say that on the hands of the Soyots +there has ever been seen human blood. With their love of peace +they struggled against the evils of war. Even the severe Chinese +administrators could not apply here in this country of peace the +full measure of their implacable laws. In the same manner the +Soyots conducted themselves when the Russian people, mad with blood +and crime, brought this infection into their land. They avoided +persistently meetings and encounters with the Red troops and +Partisans, trekking off with their families and cattle southward +into the distant principalities of Kemchik and Soldjak. The +eastern branch of this stream of emigration passed through the +valley of the Buret Hei, where we constantly outstrode groups of +them with their cattle and herds. + +We traveled quickly along the winding trail of the Buret Hei and in +two days began to make the elevations of the mountain pass between +the valleys of the Buret Hei and Kharga. The trail was not only +very steep but was also littered with fallen larch trees and +frequently intercepted, incredible as it may seem, with swampy +places where the horses mired badly. Then again we picked our +dangerous road over cobbles and small stones that rolled away under +our horses' feet and bumped off over the precipice nearby. Our +horses fatigued easily in passing this moraine that had been strewn +by ancient glaciers along the mountain sides. Sometimes the trail +led right along the edge of the precipices where the horses started +great slides of stones and sand. I remember one whole mountain +covered with these moving sands. We had to leave our saddles and, +taking the bridles in our hands, to trot for a mile or more over +these sliding beds, sometimes sinking in up to our knees and going +down the mountain side with them toward the precipices below. One +imprudent move at times would have sent us over the brink. This +destiny met one of our horses. Belly down in the moving trap, he +could not work free to change his direction and so slipped on down +with a mass of it until he rolled over the precipice and was lost +to us forever. We heard only the crackling of breaking trees along +his road to death. Then with great difficulty we worked down to +salvage the saddle and bags. Further along we had to abandon one +of our pack horses which had come all the way from the northern +border of Urianhai with us. We first unburdened it but this did +not help; no more did our shouting and threats. He only stood with +his head down and looked so exhausted that we realized he had +reached the further bourne of his land of toil. Some Soyots with +us examined him, felt of his muscles on the fore and hind legs, +took his head in their hands and moved it from side to side, +examined his head carefully after that and then said: + +"That horse will not go further. His brain is dried out." So we +had to leave him. + +That evening we came to a beautiful change in scene when we topped +a rise and found ourselves on a broad plateau covered with larch. +On it we discovered the yurtas of some Soyot hunters, covered with +bark instead of the usual felt. Out of these ten men with rifles +rushed toward us as we approached. They informed us that the +Prince of Soldjak did not allow anyone to pass this way, as he +feared the coming of murderers and robbers into his dominions. + +"Go back to the place from which you came," they advised us with +fear in their eyes. + +I did not answer but I stopped the beginnings of a quarrel between +an old Soyot and one of my officers. I pointed to the small stream +in the valley ahead of us and asked him its name. + +"Oyna," replied the Soyot. "It is the border of the principality +and the passage of it is forbidden." + +"All right," I said, "but you will allow us to warm and rest +ourselves a little." + +"Yes, yes!" exclaimed the hospitable Soyots, and led us into their +tepees. + +On our way there I took the opportunity to hand to the old Soyot a +cigarette and to another a box of matches. We were all walking +along together save one Soyot who limped slowly in the rear and was +holding his hand up over his nose. + +"Is he ill?" I asked. + +"Yes," sadly answered the old Soyot. "That is my son. He has been +losing blood from the nose for two days and is now quite weak." + +I stopped and called the young man to me. + +"Unbutton your outer coat," I ordered, "bare your neck and chest +and turn your face up as far as you can." I pressed the jugular +vein on both sides of his head for some minutes and said to him: + +"The blood will not flow from your nose any more. Go into your +tepee and lie down for some time." + +The "mysterious" action of my fingers created on the Soyots a +strong impression. The old Soyot with fear and reverence +whispered: + +"Ta Lama, Ta Lama! (Great Doctor)." + +In the yurta we were given tea while the old Soyot sat thinking +deeply about something. Afterwards he took counsel with his +companions and finally announced: + +"The wife of our Prince is sick in her eyes and I think the Prince +will be very glad if I lead the 'Ta Lama' to him. He will not +punish me, for he ordered that no 'bad people' should be allowed to +pass; but that should not stop the 'good people' from coming to us. + +"Do as you think best," I replied rather indifferently. "As a +matter of fact, I know how to treat eye diseases but I would go +back if you say so." + +"No, no!" the old man exclaimed with fear. "I shall guide you +myself." + +Sitting by the fire, he lighted his pipe with a flint, wiped the +mouthpiece on his sleeve and offered it to me in true native +hospitality. I was "comme il faut" and smoked. Afterwards he +offered his pipe to each one of our company and received from each +a cigarette, a little tobacco or some matches. It was the seal on +our friendship. Soon in our yurta many persons piled up around us, +men, women, children and dogs. It was impossible to move. From +among them emerged a Lama with shaved face and close cropped hair, +dressed in the flowing red garment of his caste. His clothes and +his expression were very different from the common mass of dirty +Soyots with their queues and felt caps finished off with squirrel +tails on the top. The Lama was very kindly disposed towards us but +looked ever greedily at our gold rings and watches. I decided to +exploit this avidity of the Servant of Buddha. Supplying him with +tea and dried bread, I made known to him that I was in need of +horses. + +"I have a horse. Will you buy it from me?" he asked. "But I do +not accept Russian bank notes. Let us exchange something." + +For a long time I bargained with him and at last for my gold +wedding ring, a raincoat and a leather saddle bag I received a fine +Soyot horse--to replace one of the pack animals we had lost--and a +young goat. We spent the night here and were feasted with fat +mutton. In the morning we moved off under the guidance of the old +Soyot along the trail that followed the valley of the Oyna, free +from both mountains and swamps. But we knew that the mounts of my +friend and myself, together with three others, were too worn down +to make Kosogol and determined to try to buy others in Soldjak. +Soon we began to meet little groups of Soyot yurtas with their +cattle and horses round about. Finally we approached the shifting +capital of the Prince. Our guide rode on ahead for the parley with +him after assuring us that the Prince would be glad to welcome the +Ta Lama, though at the time I remarked great anxiety and fear in +his features as he spoke. Before long we emerged on to a large +plain well covered with small bushes. Down by the shore of the +river we made out big yurtas with yellow and blue flags floating +over them and easily guessed that this was the seat of government. +Soon our guide returned to us. His face was wreathed with smiles. +He flourished his hands and cried: + +"Noyon (the Prince) asks you to come! He is very glad!" + +From a warrior I was forced to change myself into a diplomat. As +we approached the yurta of the Prince, we were met by two +officials, wearing the peaked Mongol caps with peacock feathers +rampants behind. With low obeisances they begged the foreign +"Noyon" to enter the yurta. My friend the Tartar and I entered. +In the rich yurta draped with expensive silk we discovered a +feeble, wizen-faced little old man with shaven face and cropped +hair, wearing also a high pointed beaver cap with red silk apex +topped off with a dark red button with the long peacock feathers +streaming out behind. On his nose were big Chinese spectacles. He +was sitting on a low divan, nervously clicking the beads of his +rosary. This was Ta Lama, Prince of Soldjak and High Priest of the +Buddhist Temple. He welcomed us very cordially and invited us to +sit down before the fire burning in the copper brazier. His +surprisingly beautiful Princess served us with tea and Chinese +confections and cakes. We smoked our pipes, though the Prince as a +Lama did not indulge, fulfilling, however, his duty as a host by +raising to his lips the pipes we offered him and handing us in +return the green nephrite bottle of snuff. Thus with the etiquette +accomplished we awaited the words of the Prince. He inquired +whether our travels had been felicitous and what were our further +plans. I talked with him quite frankly and requested his +hospitality for the rest of our company and for the horses. He +agreed immediately and ordered four yurtas set up for us. + +"I hear that the foreign Noyon," the Prince said, "is a good +doctor." + +"Yes, I know some diseases and have with me some medicines," I +answered, "but I am not a doctor. I am a scientist in other +branches." + +But the Prince did not understand this. In his simple directness a +man who knows how to treat disease is a doctor. + +"My wife has had constant trouble for two months with her eyes," he +announced. "Help her." + +I asked the Princess to show me her eyes and I found the typical +conjunctivitis from the continual smoke of the yurta and the +general uncleanliness. The Tartar brought me my medicine case. I +washed her eyes with boric acid and dropped a little cocaine and a +feeble solution of sulphurate of zinc into them. + +"I beg you to cure me," pleaded the Princess. "Do not go away +until you have cured me. We shall give you sheep, milk and flour +for all your company. I weep now very often because I had very +nice eyes and my husband used to tell me they shone like the stars +and now they are red. I cannot bear it, I cannot!" + +She very capriciously stamped her foot and, coquettishly smiling at +me, asked: + +"Do you want to cure me? Yes?" + +The character and manners of lovely woman are the same everywhere: +on bright Broadway, along the stately Thames, on the vivacious +boulevards of gay Paris and in the silk-draped yurta of the Soyot +Princess behind the larch covered Tannu Ola. + +"I shall certainly try," assuringly answered the new oculist. + +We spent here ten days, surrounded by the kindness and friendship +of the whole family of the Prince. The eyes of the Princess, which +eight years ago had seduced the already old Prince Lama, were now +recovered. She was beside herself with joy and seldom left her +looking-glass. + +The Prince gave me five fairly good horses, ten sheep and a bag of +flour, which was immediately transformed into dry bread. My friend +presented him with a Romanoff five-hundred-rouble note with a +picture of Peter the Great upon it, while I gave to him a small +nugget of gold which I had picked up in the bed of a stream. The +Prince ordered one of the Soyots to guide us to the Kosogol. The +whole family of the Prince conducted us to the monastery ten +kilometres from the "capital." We did not visit the monastery but +we stopped at the "Dugun," a Chinese trading establishment. The +Chinese merchants looked at us in a very hostile manner though they +simultaneously offered us all sorts of goods, thinking especially +to catch us with their round bottles (lanhon) of maygolo or sweet +brandy made from aniseed. As we had neither lump silver nor +Chinese dollars, we could only look with longing at these +attractive bottles, till the Prince came to the rescue and ordered +the Chinese to put five of them in our saddle bags. + + +CHAPTER XIII + +MYSTERIES, MIRACLES AND A NEW FIGHT + + +In the evening of the same day we arrived at the Sacred Lake of +Teri Noor, a sheet of water eight kilometres across, muddy and +yellow, with low unattractive shores studded with large holes. In +the middle of the lake lay what was left of a disappearing island. +On this were a few trees and some old ruins. Our guide explained +to us that two centuries ago the lake did not exist and that a very +strong Chinese fortress stood here on the plain. A Chinese chief +in command of the fortress gave offence to an old Lama who cursed +the place and prophesied that it would all be destroyed. The very +next day the water began rushing up from the ground, destroyed the +fortress and engulfed all the Chinese soldiers. Even to this day +when storms rage over the lake the waters cast up on the shores the +bones of men and horses who perished in it. This Teri Noor +increases its size every year, approaching nearer and nearer to the +mountains. Skirting the eastern shore of the lake, we began to +climb a snow-capped ridge. The road was easy at first but the +guide warned us that the most difficult bit was there ahead. We +reached this point two days later and found there a steep mountain +side thickly set with forest and covered with snow. Beyond it lay +the lines of eternal snow--ridges studded with dark rocks set in +great banks of the white mantle that gleamed bright under the clear +sunshine. These were the eastern and highest branches of the Tannu +Ola system. We spent the night beneath this wood and began the +passage of it in the morning. At noon the guide began leading us +by zigzags in and out but everywhere our trail was blocked by deep +ravines, great jams of fallen trees and walls of rock caught in +their mad tobogganings from the mountain top. We struggled for +several hours, wore out our horses and, all of a sudden, turned up +at the place where we had made our last halt. It was very evident +our Soyot had lost his way; and on his face I noticed marked fear. + +"The old devils of the cursed forest will not allow us to pass," he +whispered with trembling lips. "It is a very ominous sign. We +must return to Kharga to the Noyon." + +But I threatened him and he took the lead again evidently without +hope or effort to find the way. Fortunately, one of our party, an +Urianhai hunter, noticed the blazes on the trees, the signs of the +road which our guide had lost. Following these, we made our way +through the wood, came into and crossed a belt of burned larch +timber and beyond this dipped again into a small live forest +bordering the bottom of the mountains crowned with the eternal +snows. It grew dark so that we had to camp for the night. The +wind rose high and carried in its grasp a great white sheet of snow +that shut us off from the horizon on every side and buried our camp +deep in its folds. Our horses stood round like white ghosts, +refusing to eat or to leave the circle round our fire. The wind +combed their manes and tails. Through the niches in the mountains +it roared and whistled. From somewhere in the distance came the +low rumble of a pack of wolves, punctuated at intervals by the +sharp individual barking that a favorable gust of wind threw up +into high staccato. + +As we lay by the fire, the Soyot came over to me and said: "Noyon, +come with me to the obo. I want to show you something." + +We went there and began to ascend the mountain. At the bottom of a +very steep slope was laid up a large pile of stones and tree +trunks, making a cone of some three metres in height. These obo +are the Lamaite sacred signs set up at dangerous places, the altars +to the bad demons, rulers of these places. Passing Soyots and +Mongols pay tribute to the spirits by hanging on the branches of +the trees in the obo hatyk, long streamers of blue silk, shreds +torn from the lining of their coats or simply tufts of hair cut +from their horses' manes; or by placing on the stones lumps of meat +or cups of tea and salt. + +"Look at it," said the Soyot. "The hatyks are torn off. The +demons are angry, they will not allow us to pass, Noyon. . . ." + +He caught my hand and with supplicating voice whispered: "Let us +go back, Noyon; let us! The demons do not wish us to pass their +mountains. For twenty years no one has dared to pass these +mountains and all bold men who have tried have perished here. The +demons fell upon them with snowstorm and cold. Look! It is +beginning already. . . . Go back to our Noyon, wait for the warmer +days and then. . . ." + +I did not listen further to the Soyot but turned back to the fire, +which I could hardly see through the blinding snow. Fearing our +guide might run away, I ordered a sentry to be stationed for the +night to watch him. Later in the night I was awakened by the +sentry, who said to me: "Maybe I am mistaken, but I think I heard +a rifle." + +What could I say to it? Maybe some stragglers like ourselves were +giving a sign of their whereabouts to their lost companions, or +perhaps the sentry had mistaken for a rifle shot the sound of some +falling rock or frozen ice and snow. Soon I fell asleep again and +suddenly saw in a dream a very clear vision. Out on the plain, +blanketed deep with snow, was moving a line of riders. They were +our pack horses, our Kalmuck and the funny pied horse with the +Roman nose. I saw us descending from this snowy plateau into a +fold in the mountains. Here some larch trees were growing, close +to which gurgled a small, open brook. Afterwards I noticed a fire +burning among the trees and then woke up. + +It grew light. I shook up the others and asked them to prepare +quickly so as not to lose time in getting under way. The storm was +raging. The snow blinded us and blotted out all traces of the +road. The cold also became more intense. At last we were in the +saddles. The Soyot went ahead trying to make out the trail. As we +worked higher the guide less seldom lost the way. Frequently we +fell into deep holes covered with snow; we scrambled up over +slippery rocks. At last the Soyot swung his horse round and, +coming up to me, announced very positively: "I do not want to die +with you and I will not go further." + +My first motion was the swing of my whip back over my head. I was +so close to the "Promised Land" of Mongolia that this Soyot, +standing in the way of fulfilment of my wishes, seemed to me my +worst enemy. But I lowered my flourishing hand. Into my head +flashed a quite wild thought. + +"Listen," I said. "If you move your horses, you will receive a +bullet in the back and you will perish not at the top of the +mountain but at the bottom. And now I will tell you what will +happen to us. When we shall have reached these rocks above, the +wind will have ceased and the snowstorm will have subsided. The +sun will shine as we cross the snowy plain above and afterwards we +shall descend into a small valley where there are larches growing +and a stream of open running water. There we shall light our fires +and spend the night." + +The Soyot began to tremble with fright. + +"Noyon has already passed these mountains of Darkhat Ola?" he asked +in amazement. + +"No," I answered, "but last night I had a vision and I know that we +shall fortunately win over this ridge." + +"I will guide you!" exclaimed the Soyot, and, whipping his horse, +led the way up the steep slope to the top of the ridge of eternal +snows. + +As we were passing along the narrow edge of a precipice, the Soyot +stopped and attentively examined the trail. + +"Today many shod horses have passed here!" he cried through the +roar of the storm. "Yonder on the snow the lash of a whip has been +dragged. These are not Soyots." + +The solution of this enigma appeared instantly. A volley rang out. +One of my companions cried out, as he caught hold of his right +shoulder; one pack horse fell dead with a bullet behind his ear. +We quickly tumbled out of our saddles, lay down behind the rocks +and began to study the situation. We were separated from a +parallel spur of the mountain by a small valley about one thousand +paces across. There we made out about thirty riders already +dismounted and firing at us. I had never allowed any fighting to +be done until the initiative had been taken by the other side. Our +enemy fell upon us unawares and I ordered my company to answer. + +"Aim at the horses!" cried Colonel Ostrovsky. Then he ordered the +Tartar and Soyot to throw our own animals. We killed six of theirs +and probably wounded others, as they got out of control. Also our +rifles took toll of any bold man who showed his head from behind +his rock. We heard the angry shouting and maledictions of Red +soldiers who shot up our position more and more animatedly. + +Suddenly I saw our Soyot kick up three of the horses and spring +into the saddle of one with the others in leash behind. Behind him +sprang up the Tartar and the Kalmuck. I had already drawn my rifle +on the Soyot but, as soon as I saw the Tartar and Kalmuck on their +lovely horses behind him, I dropped my gun and knew all was well. +The Reds let off a volley at the trio but they made good their +escape behind the rocks and disappeared. The firing continued more +and more lively and I did not know what to do. From our side we +shot rarely, saving our cartridges. Watching carefully the enemy, +I noticed two black points on the snow high above the Reds. They +slowly approached our antagonists and finally were hidden from view +behind some sharp hillocks. When they emerged from these, they +were right on the edge of some overhanging rocks at the foot of +which the Reds lay concealed from us. By this time I had no doubt +that these were the heads of two men. Suddenly these men rose up +and I watched them flourish and throw something that was followed +by two deafening roars which re-echoed across the mountain valley. +Immediately a third explosion was followed by wild shouts and +disorderly firing among the Reds. Some of the horses rolled down +the slope into the snow below and the soldiers, chased by our +shots, made off as fast as they could down into the valley out of +which we had come. + +Afterward the Tartar told me the Soyot had proposed to guide them +around behind the Reds to fall upon their rear with the bombs. +When I had bound up the wounded shoulder of the officer and we had +taken the pack off the killed animal, we continued our journey. +Our position was complicated. We had no doubt that the Red +detachment came up from Mongolia. Therefore, were there Red troops +in Mongolia? What was their strength? Where might we meet them? +Consequently, Mongolia was no more the Promised Land? Very sad +thoughts took possession of us. + +But Nature pleased us. The wind gradually fell. The storm ceased. +The sun more and more frequently broke through the scudding clouds. +We were traveling upon a high, snow-covered plateau, where in one +place the wind blew it clean and in another piled it high with +drifts which caught our horses and held them so that they could +hardly extricate themselves at times. We had to dismount and wade +through the white piles up to our waists and often a man or horse +was down and had to be helped to his feet. At last the descent +began and at sunset we stopped in the small larch grove, spent the +night at the fire among the trees and drank the tea boiled in the +water carried from the open mountain brook. In various places we +came across the tracks of our recent antagonists. + +Everything, even Nature herself and the angry demons of Darkhat +Ola, had helped us: but we were not gay, because again before us +lay the dread uncertainty that threatened us with new and possibly +destructive dangers. + + +CHAPTER XIV + +THE RIVER OF THE DEVIL + + +Ulan Taiga with Darkhat Ola lay behind us. We went forward very +rapidly because the Mongol plains began here, free from the +impediments of mountains. Everywhere splendid grazing lands +stretched away. In places there were groves of larch. We crossed +some very rapid streams but they were not deep and they had hard +beds. After two days of travel over the Darkhat plain we began +meeting Soyots driving their cattle rapidly toward the northwest +into Orgarkha Ola. They communicated to us very unpleasant news. + +The Bolsheviki from the Irkutsk district had crossed the Mongolian +border, captured the Russian colony at Khathyl on the southern +shore of Lake Kosogol and turned, off south toward Muren Kure, a +Russian settlement beside a big Lamaite monastery sixty miles south +of Kosogol. The Mongols told us there were no Russian troops +between Khathyl and Muren Kure, so we decided to pass between these +two points to reach Van Kure farther to the east. We took leave of +our Soyot guide and, after having sent three scouts in advance, +moved forward. From the mountains around the Kosogol we admired +the splendid view of this broad Alpine lake. It was set like a +sapphire in the old gold of the surrounding hills, chased with +lovely bits of rich dark forestry. At night we approached Khathyl +with great precaution and stopped on the shore of the river that +flows from Kosogol, the Yaga or Egingol. We found a Mongol who +agreed to transport us to the other bank of the frozen stream and +to lead us by a safe road between Khathyl and Muren Kure. +Everywhere along the shore of the river were found large obo and +small shrines to the demons of the stream. + +"Why are there so many obo?" we asked the Mongol. + +"It is the River of the Devil, dangerous and crafty," replied the +Mongol. "Two days ago a train of carts went through the ice and +three of them with five soldiers were lost." + +We started to cross. The surface of the river resembled a thick +piece of looking-glass, being clear and without snow. Our horses +walked very carefully but some fell and floundered before they +could regain their feet. We were leading them by the bridle. With +bowed heads and trembling all over they kept their frightened eyes +ever on the ice at their feet. I looked down and understood their +fear. Through the cover of one foot of transparent ice one could +clearly see the bottom of the river. Under the lighting of the +moon all the stones, the holes and even some of the grasses were +distinctly visible, even though the depth was ten metres and more. +The Yaga rushed under the ice with a furious speed, swirling and +marking its course with long bands of foam and bubbles. Suddenly I +jumped and stopped as though fastened to the spot. Along the +surface of the river ran the boom of a cannon, followed by a second +and a third. + +"Quicker, quicker!" cried our Mongol, waving us forward with his +hand. + +Another cannon boom and a crack ran right close to us. The horses +swung back on their haunches in protest, reared and fell, many of +them striking their heads severely on the ice. In a second it +opened up two feet wide, so that I could follow its jagged course +along the surface. Immediately up out of the opening the water +spread over the ice with a rush. + +"Hurry, hurry!" shouted the guide. + +With great difficulty we forced our horses to jump over this +cleavage and to continue on further. They trembled and disobeyed +and only the strong lash forced them to forget this panic of fear +and go on. + +When we were safe on the farther bank and well into the woods, our +Mongol guide recounted to us how the river at times opens in this +mysterious way and leaves great areas of clear water. All the men +and animals on the river at such times must perish. The furious +current of cold water will always carry them down under the ice. +At other times a crack has been known to pass right under a horse +and, where he fell in with his front feet in the attempt to get +back to the other side, the crack has closed up and ground his legs +or feet right off. + +The valley of Kosogol is the crater of an extinct volcano. Its +outlines may be followed from the high west shore of the lake. +However, the Plutonic force still acts and, asserting the glory of +the Devil, forces the Mongols to build obo and offer sacrifices at +his shrines. We spent all the night and all the next day hurrying +away eastward to avoid a meeting with the Reds and seeking good +pasturage for our horses. At about nine o'clock in the evening a +fire shone out of the distance. My friend and I made toward it +with the feeling that it was surely a Mongol yurta beside which we +could camp in safety. We traveled over a mile before making out +distinctly the lines of a group of yurtas. But nobody came out to +meet us and, what astonished us more, we were not surrounded by the +angry black Mongolian dogs with fiery eyes. Still, from the +distance we had seen the fire and so there must be someone there. +We dismounted from our horses and approached on foot. From out of +the yurta rushed two Russian soldiers, one of whom shot at me with +his pistol but missed me and wounded my horse in the back through +the saddle. I brought him to earth with my Mauser and the other +was killed by the butt end of my friend's rifle. We examined the +bodies and found in their pockets the papers of soldiers of the +Second Squadron of the Communist Interior Defence. Here we spent +the night. The owners of the yurtas had evidently run away, for +the Red soldiers had collected and packed in sacks the property of +the Mongols. Probably they were just planning to leave, as they +were fully dressed. We acquired two horses, which we found in the +bushes, two rifles and two automatic pistols with cartridges. In +the saddle bags we also found tea, tobacco, matches and cartridges-- +all of these valuable supplies to help us keep further hold on our +lives. + +Two days later we were approaching the shore of the River Uri when +we met two Russian riders, who were the Cossacks of a certain +Ataman Sutunin, acting against the Bolsheviki in the valley of the +River Selenga. They were riding to carry a message from Sutunin to +Kaigorodoff, chief of the Anti-Bolsheviki in the Altai region. +They informed us that along the whole Russian-Mongolian border the +Bolshevik troops were scattered; also that Communist agitators had +penetrated to Kiakhta, Ulankom and Kobdo and had persuaded the +Chinese authorities to surrender to the Soviet authorities all the +refugees from Russia. We knew that in the neighborhood of Urga and +Van Kure engagements were taking place between the Chinese troops +and the detachments of the Anti-Bolshevik Russian General Baron +Ungern Sternberg and Colonel Kazagrandi, who were fighting for the +independence of Outer Mongolia. Baron Ungern had now been twice +defeated, so that the Chinese were carrying on high-handed in Urga, +suspecting all foreigners of having relations with the Russian +General. + +We realized that the whole situation was sharply reversed. The +route to the Pacific was closed. Reflecting very carefully over +the problem, I decided that we had but one possible exit left. We +must avoid all Mongolian cities with Chinese administration, cross +Mongolia from north to south, traverse the desert in the southern +part of the Principality of Jassaktu Khan, enter the Gobi in the +western part of Inner Mongolia, strike as rapidly as possible +through sixty miles of Chinese territory in the Province of Kansu +and penetrate into Tibet. Here I hoped to search out one of the +English Consuls and with his help to reach some English port in +India. I understood thoroughly all the difficulties incident to +such an enterprise but I had no other choice. It only remained to +make this last foolish attempt or to perish without doubt at the +hands of the Boisheviki or languish in a Chinese prison. When I +announced my plan to my companions, without in any way hiding from +them all its dangers and quixotism, all of them answered very +quickly and shortly: "Lead us! We will follow." + +One circumstance was distinctly in our favor. We did not fear +hunger, for we had some supplies of tea, tobacco and matches and a +surplus of horses, saddles, rifles, overcoats and boots, which were +an excellent currency for exchange. So then we began to initiate +the plan of the new expedition. We should start to the south, +leaving the town of Uliassutai on our right and taking the +direction of Zaganluk, then pass through the waste lands of the +district of Balir of Jassaktu Khan, cross the Naron Khuhu Gobi and +strike for the mountains of Boro. Here we should be able to take a +long rest to recuperate the strength of our horses and of +ourselves. The second section of our journey would be the passage +through the western part of Inner Mongolia, through the Little +Gobi, through the lands of the Torguts, over the Khara Mountains, +across Kansu, where our road must be chosen to the west of the +Chinese town of Suchow. From there we should have to enter the +Dominion of Kuku Nor and then work on southward to the head waters +of the Yangtze River. Beyond this I had but a hazy notion, which +however I was able to verify from a map of Asia in the possession +of one of the officers, to the effect that the mountain chains to +the west of the sources of the Yangtze separated that river system +from the basin of the Brahmaputra in Tibet Proper, where I expected +to be able to find English assistance. + + +CHAPTER XV + +THE MARCH OF GHOSTS + + +In no other way can I describe the journey from the River Ero to +the border of Tibet. About eleven hundred miles through the snowy +steppes, over mountains and across deserts we traveled in forty- +eight days. We hid from the people as we journeyed, made short +stops in the most desolate places, fed for whole weeks on nothing +but raw, frozen meat in order to avoid attracting attention by the +smoke of fires. Whenever we needed to purchase a sheep or a steer +for our supply department, we sent out only two unarmed men who +represented to the natives that they were the workmen of some +Russian colonists. We even feared to shoot, although we met a +great herd of antelopes numbering as many as five thousand head. +Behind Balir in the lands of the Lama Jassaktu Khan, who had +inherited his throne as a result of the poisoning of his brother at +Urga by order of the Living Buddha, we met wandering Russian +Tartars who had driven their herds all the way from Altai and +Abakan. They welcomed us very cordially, gave us oxen and thirty- +six bricks of tea. Also they saved us from inevitable destruction, +for they told us that at this season it was utterly impossible for +horses to make the trip across the Gobi, where there was no grass +at all. We must buy camels by exchanging for them our horses and +some other of our bartering supplies. One of the Tartars the next +day brought to their camp a rich Mongol with whom he drove the +bargain for this trade. He gave us nineteen camels and took all +our horses, one rifle, one pistol and the best Cossack saddle. He +advised us by all means to visit the sacred Monastery of +Narabanchi, the last Lamaite monastery on the road from Mongolia to +Tibet. He told us that the Holy Hutuktu, "the Incarnate Buddha," +would be greatly offended if we did not visit the monastery and his +famous "Shrine of Blessings," where all travelers going to Tibet +always offered prayers. Our Kalmuck Lamaite supported the Mongol +in this. I decided to go there with the Kalmuck. The Tartars gave +me some big silk hatyk as presents and loaned us four splendid +horses. Although the monastery was fifty-five miles distant, by +nine o'clock in the evening I entered the yurta of this holy +Hutuktu. + +He was a middle-aged, clean shaven, spare little man, laboring +under the name of Jelyb Djamsrap Hutuktu. He received us very +cordially and was greatly pleased with the presentation of the +hatyk and with my knowledge of the Mongol etiquette in which my +Tartar had been long and persistently instructing me. He listened +to me most attentively and gave valuable advice about the road, +presenting me then with a ring which has since opened for me the +doors of all Lamaite monasteries. The name of this Hutuktu is +highly esteemed not only in all Mongolia but in Tibet and in the +Lamaite world of China. We spent the night in his splendid yurta +and on the following morning visited the shrines where they were +conducting very solemn services with the music of gongs, tom-toms +and whistling. The Lamas with their deep voices were intoning the +prayers while the lesser priests answered with their antiphonies. +The sacred phrase: "Om! Mani padme Hung!" was endlessly repeated. + +The Hutuktu wished us success, presented us with a large yellow +hatyk and accompanied us to the monastery gate. When we were in +our saddles he said: + +"Remember that you are always welcome guests here. Life is very +complicated and anything may happen. Perhaps you will be forced in +future to re-visit distant Mongolia and then do not miss Narabanchi +Kure." + +That night we returned to the Tartars and the next day continued +our journey. As I was very tired, the slow, easy motion of the +camel was welcome and restful to me. All the day I dozed off at +intervals to sleep. It turned out to be very disastrous for me; +for, when my camel was going up the steep bank of a river, in one +of my naps I fell off and hit my head on a stone, lost +consciousness and woke up to find my overcoat covered with blood. +My friends surrounded me with their frightened faces. They +bandaged my head and we started off again. I only learned long +afterwards from a doctor who examined me that I had cracked my +skull as the price of my siesta. + +We crossed the eastern ranges of the Altai and the Karlik Tag, +which are the most oriental sentinels the great Tian Shan system +throws out into the regions of the Gobi; and then traversed from +the north to the south the entire width of the Khuhu Gobi. Intense +cold ruled all this time and fortunately the frozen sands gave us +better speed. Before passing the Khara range, we exchanged our +rocking-chair steeds for horses, a deal in which the Torguts +skinned us badly like the true "old clothes men" they are. + +Skirting around these mountains we entered Kansu. It was a +dangerous move, for the Chinese were arresting all refugees and I +feared for my Russian fellow-travelers. During the days we hid in +the ravines, the forests and bushes, making forced marches at +night. Four days we thus used in this passage of Kansu. The few +Chinese peasants we did encounter were peaceful appearing and most +hospitable. A marked sympathetic interest surrounded the Kalmuck, +who could speak a bit of Chinese, and my box of medicines. +Everywhere we found many ill people, chiefly afflicted with eye +troubles, rheumatism and skin diseases. + +As we were approaching Nan Shan, the northeast branch of the Altyn +Tag (which is in turn the east branch of the Pamir and Karakhorum +system), we overhauled a large caravan of Chinese merchants going +to Tibet and joined them. For three days we were winding through +the endless ravine-like valleys of these mountains and ascending +the high passes. But we noticed that the Chinese knew how to pick +the easiest routes for caravans over all these difficult places. +In a state of semi-consciousness I made this whole journey toward +the large group of swampy lakes, feeding the Koko Nor and a whole +network of large rivers. From fatigue and constant nervous strain, +probably helped by the blow on my head, I began suffering from +sharp attacks of chills and fever, burning up at times and then +chattering so with my teeth that I frightened my horse who several +times threw me from the saddle. I raved, cried out at times and +even wept. I called my family and instructed them how they must +come to me. I remember as though through a dream how I was taken +from the horse by my companions, laid on the ground, supplied with +Chinese brandy and, when I recovered a little, how they said to me: + +"The Chinese merchants are heading for the west and we must travel +south." + +"No! To the north," I replied very sharply. + +"But no, to the south," my companions assured me. + +"God and the Devil!" I angrily ejaculated, "we have just swum the +Little Yenisei and Algyak is to the north!" + +"We are in Tibet," remonstrated my companions. "We must reach the +Brahmaputra." + +Brahmaputra. . . . Brahmaputra. . . . This word revolved in my +fiery brain, made a terrible noise and commotion. Suddenly I +remembered everything and opened my eyes. I hardly moved my lips +and soon I again lost consciousness. My companions brought me to +the monastery of Sharkhe, where the Lama doctor quickly brought me +round with a solution of fatil or Chinese ginseng. In discussing +our plans he expressed grave doubt as to whether we would get +through Tibet but he did not wish to explain to me the reason for +his doubts. + + +CHAPTER XVI + +IN MYSTERIOUS TIBET + + +A fairly broad road led out from Sharkhe through the mountains and +on the fifth day of our two weeks' march to the south from the +monastery we emerged into the great bowl of the mountains in whose +center lay the large lake of Koko Nor. If Finland deserves the +ordinary title of the "Land of Ten Thousand Lakes," the dominion of +Koko Nor may certainly with justice be called the "Country of a +Million Lakes." We skirted this lake on the west between it and +Doulan Kitt, zigzagging between the numerous swamps, lakes and +small rivers, deep and miry. The water was not here covered with +ice and only on the tops of the mountains did we feel the cold +winds sharply. We rarely met the natives of the country and only +with greatest difficulty did our Kalmuck learn the course of the +road from the occasional shepherds we passed. From the eastern +shore of the Lake of Tassoun we worked round to a monastery on the +further side, where we stopped for a short rest. Besides ourselves +there was also another group of guests in the holy place. These +were Tibetans. Their behavior was very impertinent and they +refused to speak with us. They were all armed, chiefly with the +Russian military rifles and were draped with crossed bandoliers of +cartridges with two or three pistols stowed beneath belts with more +cartridges sticking out. They examined us very sharply and we +readily realized that they were estimating our martial strength. +After they had left on that same day I ordered our Kalmuck to +inquire from the High Priest of the temple exactly who they were. +For a long time the monk gave evasive answers but when I showed him +the ring of Hutuktu Narabanchi and presented him with a large +yellow hatyk, he became more communicative. + +"Those are bad people," he explained. "Have a care of them." + +However, he was not willing to give their names, explaining his +refusal by citing the Law of Buddhist lands against pronouncing the +name of one's father, teacher or chief. Afterwards I found out +that in North Tibet there exists the same custom as in North China. +Here and there bands of hunghutze wander about. They appear at the +headquarters of the leading trading firms and at the monasteries, +claim tribute and after their collections become the protectors of +the district. Probably this Tibetan monastery had in this band +just such protectors. + +When we continued our trip, we frequently noticed single horsemen +far away or on the horizon, apparently studying our movements with +care. All our attempts to approach them and enter into +conversation with them were entirely unsuccessful. On their speedy +little horses they disappeared like shadows. As we reached the +steep and difficult Pass on the Hamshan and were preparing to spend +the night there, suddenly far up on a ridge above us appeared about +forty horsemen with entirely white mounts and without formal +introduction or warning spattered us with a hail of bullets. Two +of our officers fell with a cry. One had been instantly killed +while the other lived some few minutes. I did not allow my men to +shoot but instead I raised a white flag and started forward with +the Kalmuck for a parley. At first they fired two shots at us but +then ceased firing and sent down a group of riders from the ridge +toward us. We began the parley. The Tibetans explained that +Hamshan is a holy mountain and that here one must not spend the +night, advising us to proceed farther where we could consider +ourselves in safety. They inquired from us whence we came and +whither we were going, stated in answer to our information about +the purpose of our journey that they knew the Bolsheviki and +considered them the liberators of the people of Asia from the yoke +of the white race. I certainly did not want to begin a political +quarrel with them and so turned back to our companions. Riding +down the slope toward our camp, I waited momentarily for a shot in +the back but the Tibetan hunghutze did not shoot. + +We moved forward, leaving among the stones the bodies of two of our +companions as sad tribute to the difficulties and dangers of our +journey. We rode all night, with our exhausted horses constantly +stopping and some lying down under us, but we forced them ever +onward. At last, when the sun was at its zenith, we finally +halted. Without unsaddling our horses, we gave them an opportunity +to lie down for a little rest. Before us lay a broad, swampy +plain, where was evidently the sources of the river Ma-chu. Not +far beyond lay the Lake of Aroung Nor. We made our fire of cattle +dung and began boiling water for our tea. Again without any +warning the bullets came raining in from all sides. Immediately we +took cover behind convenient rocks and waited developments. The +firing became faster and closer, the raiders appeared on the whole +circle round us and the bullets came ever in increasing numbers. +We had fallen into a trap and had no hope but to perish. We +realized this clearly. I tried anew to begin the parley; but when +I stood up with my white flag, the answer was only a thicker rain +of bullets and unfortunately one of these, ricocheting off a rock, +struck me in the left leg and lodged there. At the same moment +another one of our company was killed. We had no other choice and +were forced to begin fighting. The struggle continued for about +two hours. Besides myself three others received slight wounds. We +resisted as long as we could. The hunghutze approached and our +situation became desperate. + +"There's no choice," said one of my associates, a very expert +Colonel. "We must mount and ride for it . . . anywhere." + +"Anywhere. . . ." It was a terrible word! We consulted for but an +instant. It was apparent that with this band of cut-throats behind +us the farther we went into Tibet, the less chance we had of saving +our lives. + +We decided to return to Mongolia. But how? That we did not know. +And thus we began our retreat. Firing all the time, we trotted our +horses as fast as we could toward the north. One after another +three of my companions fell. There lay my Tartar with a bullet +through his neck. After him two young and fine stalwart officers +were carried from their saddles with cries of death, while their +scared horses broke out across the plain in wild fear, perfect +pictures of our distraught selves. This emboldened the Tibetans, +who became more and more audacious. A bullet struck the buckle on +the ankle strap of my right foot and carried it, with a piece of +leather and cloth, into my leg just above the ankle. My old and +much tried friend, the agronome, cried out as he grasped his +shoulder and then I saw him wiping and bandaging as best as he +could his bleeding forehead. A second afterward our Kalmuck was +hit twice right through the palm of the same hand, so that it was +entirely shattered. Just at this moment fifteen of the hunghutze +rushed against us in a charge. + +"Shoot at them with volley fire!" commanded our Colonel. + +Six robber bodies lay on the turf, while two others of the gang +were unhorsed and ran scampering as fast as they could after their +retreating fellows. Several minutes later the fire of our +antagonists ceased and they raised a white flag. Two riders came +forward toward us. In the parley it developed that their chief had +been wounded through the chest and they came to ask us to "render +first aid." At once I saw a ray of hope. I took my box of +medicines and my groaning, cursing, wounded Kalmuck to interpret +for me. + +"Give that devil some cyanide of potassium," urged my companions. + +But I devised another scheme. + +We were led to the wounded chief. There he lay on the saddle +cloths among the rocks, represented to us to be a Tibetan but I at +once recognized him from his cast of countenance to be a Sart or +Turcoman, probably from the southern part of Turkestan. He looked +at me with a begging and frightened gaze. Examining him, I found +the bullet had passed through his chest from left to right, that he +had lost much blood and was very weak. Conscientiously I did all +that I could for him. In the first place I tried on my own tongue +all the medicines to be used on him, even the iodoform, in order to +demonstrate that there was no poison among them. I cauterized the +wound with iodine, sprinkled it with iodoform and applied the +bandages. I ordered that the wounded man be not touched nor moved +and that he be left right where he lay. Then I taught a Tibetan +how the dressing must be changed and left with him medicated +cotton, bandages and a little iodoform. To the patient, in whom +the fever was already developing, I gave a big dose of aspirin and +left several tablets of quinine with them. Afterwards, addressing +myself to the bystanders through my Kalmuck, I said very solemnly: + +"The wound is very dangerous but I gave to your Chief very strong +medicine and hope that he will recover. One condition, however, is +necessary: the bad demons which have rushed to his side for his +unwarranted attack upon us innocent travelers will instantly kill +him, if another shot is let off against us. You must not even keep +a single cartridge in your rifles." + +With these words I ordered the Kalmuck to empty his rifle and I, at +the same time, took all the cartridges out of my Mauser. The +Tibetans instantly and very servilely followed my example. + +"Remember that I told you: 'Eleven days and eleven nights do not +move from this place and do not charge your rifles.' Otherwise the +demon of death will snatch off your Chief and will pursue you!"-- +and with these words I solemnly drew forth and raised above their +heads the ring of Hutuktu Narabanchi. + +I returned to my companions and calmed them. I told them we were +safe against further attack from the robbers and that we must only +guess the way to reach Mongolia. Our horses were so exhausted and +thin that on their bones we could have hung our overcoats. We +spent two days here, during which time I frequently visited my +patient. It also gave us opportunity to bandage our own +fortunately light wounds and to secure a little rest; though +unfortunately I had nothing but a jackknife with which to dig the +bullet out of my left calf and the shoemaker's accessories from my +right ankle. Inquiring from the brigands about the caravan roads, +we soon made our way out to one of the main routes and had the good +fortune to meet there the caravan of the young Mongol Prince +Pounzig, who was on a holy mission carrying a message from the +Living Buddha in Urga to the Dalai Lama in Lhasa. He helped us to +purchase horses, camels and food. + +With all our arms and supplies spent in barter during the journey +for the purchase of transport and food, we returned stripped and +broken to the Narabanchi Monastery, where we were welcomed by the +Hutuktu. + +"I knew you would come back," said he. "The divinations revealed +it all to me." + +With six of our little band left behind us in Tibet to pay the +eternal toll of our dash for the south we returned but twelve to +the Monastery and waited there two weeks to re-adjust ourselves and +learn how events would again set us afloat on this turbulent sea to +steer for any port that Destiny might indicate. The officers +enlisted in the detachment which was then being formed in Mongolia +to fight against the destroyers of their native land, the +Bolsheviki. My original companion and I prepared to continue our +journey over Mongolian plains with whatever further adventures and +dangers might come in the struggle to escape to a place of safety. + +And now, with the scenes of that trying march so vividly recalled, +I would dedicate these chapters to my gigantic, old and ruggedly +tried friend, the agronome, to my Russian fellow-travelers, and +especially, to the sacred memory of those of our companions whose +bodies lie cradled in the sleep among the mountains of Tibet-- +Colonel Ostrovsky, Captains Zuboff and Turoff, Lieutenant +Pisarjevsky, Cossack Vernigora and Tartar Mahomed Spirin. Also +here I express my deep thanks for help and friendship to the Prince +of Soldjak, Hereditary Noyon Ta Lama and to the Kampo Gelong of +Narabanchi Monastery, the honorable Jelyb Djamsrap Hutuktu. + + + +Part II + +THE LAND OF DEMONS + + +CHAPTER XVII + +MYSTERIOUS MONGOLIA + + +In the heart of Asia lies the enormous, mysterious and rich country +of Mongolia. From somewhere on the snowy slopes of the Tian Shan +and from the hot sands of Western Zungaria to the timbered ridges +of the Sayan and to the Great Wall of China it stretches over a +huge portion of Central Asia. The cradle of peoples, histories and +legends; the native land of bloody conquerors, who have left here +their capitals covered by the sand of the Gobi, their mysterious +rings and their ancient nomad laws; the states of monks and evil +devils, the country of wandering tribes administered by the +descendants of Jenghiz Khan and Kublai Khan--Khans and Princes of +the Junior lines: that is Mongolia. + +Mysterious country of the cults of Rama, Sakkia-Mouni, Djonkapa and +Paspa, cults guarded by the very person of the living Buddha-- +Buddha incarnated in the third dignitary of the Lamaite religion-- +Bogdo Gheghen in Ta Kure or Urga; the land of mysterious doctors, +prophets, sorcerers, fortune-tellers and witches; the land of the +sign of the swastika; the land which has not forgotten the thoughts +of the long deceased great potentates of Asia and of half of +Europe: that is Mongolia. + +The land of nude mountains, of plains burned by the sun and killed +by the cold, of ill cattle and ill people; the nest of pests, +anthrax and smallpox; the land of boiling hot springs and of +mountain passes inhabited by demons; of sacred lakes swarming with +fish; of wolves, rare species of deer and mountain goats, marmots +in millions, wild horses, wild donkeys and wild camels that have +never known the bridle, ferocious dogs and rapacious birds of prey +which devour the dead bodies cast out on the plains by the people: +that is Mongolia. + +The land whose disappearing primitive people gaze upon the bones of +their forefathers whitening in the sands and dust of their plains; +where are dying out the people who formerly conquered China, Siam, +Northern India and Russia and broke their chests against the iron +lances of the Polish knights, defending then all the Christian +world against the invasion of wild and wandering Asia: that is +Mongolia. + +The land swelling with natural riches, producing nothing, in need +of everything, destitute and suffering from the world's cataclysm: +that is Mongolia. + +In this land, by order of Fate, after my unsuccessful attempt to +reach the Indian Ocean through Tibet, I spent half a year in the +struggle to live and to escape. My old and faithful friend and I +were compelled, willy-nilly, to participate in the exceedingly +important and dangerous events transpiring in Mongolia in the year +of grace 1921. Thanks to this, I came to know the calm, good and +honest Mongolian people; I read their souls, saw their sufferings +and hopes; I witnessed the whole horror of their oppression and +fear before the face of Mystery, there where Mystery pervades all +life. I watched the rivers during the severe cold break with a +rumbling roar their chains of ice; saw lakes cast up on their +shores the bones of human beings; heard unknown wild voices in the +mountain ravines; made out the fires over miry swamps of the will- +o'-the-wisps; witnessed burning lakes; gazed upward to mountains +whose peaks could not be scaled; came across great balls of +writhing snakes in the ditches in winter; met with streams which +are eternally frozen, rocks like petrified caravans of camels, +horsemen and carts; and over all saw the barren mountains whose +folds looked like the mantle of Satan, which the glow of the +evening sun drenched with blood. + +"Look up there!" cried an old shepherd, pointing to the slope of +the cursed Zagastai. "That is no mountain. It is HE who lies in +his red mantle and awaits the day when he will rise again to begin +the fight with the good spirits." + +And as he spoke I recalled the mystic picture of the noted painter +Vroubel. The same nude mountains with the violet and purple robes +of Satan, whose face is half covered by an approaching grey cloud. +Mongolia is a terrible land of mystery and demons. Therefore it is +no wonder that here every violation of the ancient order of life of +the wandering nomad tribes is transformed into streams of red blood +and horror, ministering to the demonic pleasure of Satan couched on +the bare mountains and robed in the grey cloak of dejection and +sadness, or in the purple mantle of war and vengeance. + +After returning from the district of Koko Nor to Mongolia and +resting a few days at the Narabanchi Monastery, we went to live in +Uliassutai, the capital of Western Outer Mongolia. It is the last +purely Mongolian town to the west. In Mongolia there are but three +purely Mongolian towns, Urga, Uliassutai and Ulankom. The fourth +town, Kobdo, has an essentially Chinese character, being the center +of Chinese administration in this district inhabited by the +wandering tribes only nominally recognizing the influence of either +Peking or Urga. In Uliassutai and Ulankom, besides the unlawful +Chinese commissioners and troops, there were stationed Mongolian +governors or "Saits," appointed by the decree of the Living Buddha. + +When we arrived in that town, we were at once in the sea of +political passions. The Mongols were protesting in great agitation +against the Chinese policy in their country; the Chinese raged and +demanded from the Mongolians the payment of taxes for the full +period since the autonomy of Mongolia had been forcibly extracted +from Peking; Russian colonists who had years before settled near +the town and in the vicinity of the great monasteries or among the +wandering tribes had separated into factions and were fighting +against one another; from Urga came the news of the struggle for +the maintenance of the independence of Outer Mongolia, led by the +Russian General, Baron Ungern von Sternberg; Russian officers and +refugees congregated in detachments, against which the Chinese +authorities protested but which the Mongols welcomed; the +Bolsheviki, worried by the formation of White detachments in +Mongolia, sent their troops to the borders of Mongolia; from +Irkutsk and Chita to Uliassutai and Urga envoys were running from +the Bolsheviki to the Chinese commissioners with various proposals +of all kinds; the Chinese authorities in Mongolia were gradually +entering into secret relations with the Bolsheviki and in Kiakhta +and Ulankom delivered to them the Russian refugees, thus violating +recognized international law; in Urga the Bolsheviki set up a +Russian communistic municipality; Russian Consuls were inactive; +Red troops in the region of Kosogol and the valley of the Selenga +had encounters with Anti-Bolshevik officers; the Chinese +authorities established garrisons in the Mongolian towns and sent +punitive expeditions into the country; and, to complete the +confusion, the Chinese troops carried out house-to-house searches, +during which they plundered and stole. + +Into what an atmosphere we had fallen after our hard and dangerous +trip along the Yenisei, through Urianhai, Mongolia, the lands of +the Turguts, Kansu and Koko Nor! + +"Do you know," said my old friend to me, "I prefer strangling +Partisans and fighting with the hunghutze to listening to news and +more anxious news!" + +He was right; for the worst of it was that in this bustle and whirl +of facts, rumours and gossip the Reds could approach troubled +Uliassutai and take everyone with their bare hands. We should very +willingly have left this town of uncertainties but we had no place +to go. In the north were the hostile Partisans and Red troops; to +the south we had already lost our companions and not a little of +our own blood; to the west raged the Chinese administrators and +detachments; and to the east a war had broken out, the news of +which, in spite of the attempts of the Chinese authorities at +secrecy, had filtered through and had testified to the seriousness +of the situation in this part of Outer Mongolia. Consequently we +had no choice but to remain in Uliassutai. Here also were living +several Polish soldiers who had escaped from the prison camps in +Russia, two Polish families and two American firms, all in the same +plight as ourselves. We joined together and made our own +intelligence department, very carefully watching the evolution of +events. We succeeded in forming good connections with the Chinese +commissioner and with the Mongolian Sait, which greatly helped us +in our orientation. + +What was behind all these events in Mongolia? The very clever +Mongol Sait of Uliassutai gave me the following explanation. + +"According to the agreements between Mongolia, China and Russia of +October 21, 1912, of October 23, 1913, and of June 7, 1915, Outer +Mongolia was accorded independence and the Moral Head of our +'Yellow Faith,' His Holiness the Living Buddha, became the Suzerain +of the Mongolian people of Khalkha or Outer Mongolia with the title +of 'Bogdo Djebtsung Damba Hutuktu Khan.' While Russia was still +strong and carefully watched her policy in Asia, the Government of +Peking kept the treaty; but, when, at the beginning of the war with +Germany, Russia was compelled to withdraw her troops from Siberia, +Peking began to claim the return of its lost rights in Mongolia. +It was because of this that the first two treaties of 1912 and 1913 +were supplemented by the convention of 1915. However, in 1916, +when all the forces of Russia were pre-occupied in the unsuccessful +war and afterwards when the first Russian revolution broke out in +February, 1917, overthrowing the Romanoff Dynasty, the Chinese +Government openly retook Mongolia. They changed all the Mongolian +ministers and Saits, replacing them with individuals friendly to +China; arrested many Mongolian autonomists and sent them to prison +in Peking; set up their administration in Urga and other Mongol +towns; actually removed His Holiness Bogdo Khan from the affairs of +administration; made him only a machine for signing Chinese +decrees; and at last introduced into Mongolia their troops. From +that moment there developed an energetic flow of Chinese merchants +and coolies into Mongolia. The Chinese began to demand the payment +of taxes and dues from 1912. The Mongolian population were rapidly +stripped of their wealth and now in the vicinities of our towns and +monasteries you can see whole settlements of beggar Mongols living +in dugouts. All our Mongol arsenals and treasuries were +requisitioned. All monasteries were forced to pay taxes; all +Mongols working for the liberty of their country were persecuted; +through bribery with Chinese silver, orders and titles the Chinese +secured a following among the poorer Mongol Princes. It is easy to +understand how the governing class, His Holiness, Khans, Princes, +and high Lamas, as well as the ruined and oppressed people, +remembering that the Mongol rulers had once held Peking and China +in their hands and under their reign had given her the first place +in Asia, were definitely hostile to the Chinese administrators +acting thus. Insurrection was, however, impossible. We had no +arms. All our leaders were under surveillance and every movement +by them toward an armed resistance would have ended in the same +prison at Peking where eighty of our Nobles, Princes and Lamas died +from hunger and torture after a previous struggle for the liberty +of Mongolia. Some abnormally strong shock was necessary to drive +the people into action. This was given by the Chinese +administrators, General Cheng Yi and General Chu Chi-hsiang. They +announced that His Holiness Bogdo Khan was under arrest in his own +palace, and they recalled to his attention the former decree of the +Peking Government--held by the Mongols to be unwarranted and +illegal--that His Holiness was the last Living Buddha. This was +enough. Immediately secret relations were made between the people +and their Living God, and plans were at once elaborated for the +liberation of His Holiness and for the struggle for liberty and +freedom of our people. We were helped by the great Prince of the +Buriats, Djam Bolon, who began parleys with General Ungern, then +engaged in fighting the Bolsheviki in Transbaikalia, and invited +him to enter Mongolia and help in the war against the Chinese. +Then our struggle for liberty began." + +Thus the Sait of Uliassutai explained the situation to me. +Afterwards I heard that Baron Ungern, who had agreed to fight for +the liberty of Mongolia, directed that the mobilization of the +Mongolians in the northern districts be forwarded at once and +promised to enter Mongolia with his own small detachment, moving +along the River Kerulen. Afterwards he took up relations with the +other Russian detachment of Colonel Kazagrandi and, together with +the mobilized Mongolian riders, began the attack on Urga. Twice he +was defeated but on the third of February, 1921, he succeeded in +capturing the town and replaced the Living Buddha on the throne of +the Khans. + +At the end of March, however, these events were still unknown in +Uliassutai. We knew neither of the fall of Urga nor of the +destruction of the Chinese army of nearly 15,000 in the battles of +Maimachen on the shore of the Tola and on the roads between Urga +and Ude. The Chinese carefully concealed the truth by preventing +anybody from passing westward from Urga. However, rumours existed +and troubled all. The atmosphere became more and more tense, while +the relations between the Chinese on the one side and the +Mongolians and Russians on the other became more and more strained. +At this time the Chinese Commissioner in Uliassutai was Wang Tsao- +tsun and his advisor, Fu Hsiang, both very young and inexperienced +men. The Chinese authorities had dismissed the Uliassutai Sait, +the prominent Mongolian patriot, Prince Chultun Beyle, and had +appointed a Lama Prince friendly to China, the former Vice-Minister +of War in Urga. Oppression increased. The searching of Russian +officers' and colonists' houses and quarters commenced, open +relations with the Bolsheviki followed and arrest and beatings +became common. The Russian officers formed a secret detachment of +sixty men so that they could defend themselves. However, in this +detachment disagreements soon sprang up between Lieutenant-Colonel +M. M. Michailoff and some of his officers. It was evident that in +the decisive moment the detachment must separate into factions. + +We foreigners in council decided to make a thorough reconnaissance +in order to know whether there was danger of Red troops arriving. +My old companion and I agreed to do this scouting. Prince Chultun +Beyle gave us a very good guide--an old Mongol named Tzeren, who +spoke and read Russian perfectly. He was a very interesting +personage, holding the position of interpreter with the Mongolian +authorities and sometimes with the Chinese Commissioner. Shortly +before he had been sent as a special envoy to Peking with very +important despatches and this incomparable horseman had made the +journey between Uliassutai and Peking, that is 1,800 miles, in nine +days, incredible as it may seem. He prepared himself for the +journey by binding all his abdomen and chest, legs, arms and neck +with strong cotton bandages to protect himself from the wracks and +strains of such a period in the saddle. In his cap he bore three +eagle feathers as a token that he had received orders to fly like a +bird. Armed with a special document called a tzara, which gave him +the right to receive at all post stations the best horses, one to +ride and one fully saddled to lead as a change, together with two +oulatchen or guards to accompany him and bring back the horses from +the next station or ourton, he made the distance of from fifteen to +thirty miles between stations at full gallop, stopping only long +enough to have the horses and guards changed before he was off +again. Ahead of him rode one oulatchen with the best horses to +enable him to announce and prepare in advance the complement of +steeds at the next station. Each oulatchen had three horses in +all, so that he could swing from one that had given out and release +him to graze until his return to pick him up and lead or ride him +back home. At every third ourton, without leaving his saddle, he +received a cup of hot green tea with salt and continued his race +southward. After seventeen or eighteen hours of such riding he +stopped at the ourton for the night or what was left of it, +devoured a leg of boiled mutton and slept. Thus he ate once a day +and five times a day had tea; and so he traveled for nine days! + +With this servant we moved out one cold winter morning in the +direction of Kobdo, just over three hundred miles, because from +there we had received the disquieting rumours that the Red troops +had entered Ulankom and that the Chinese authorities had handed +over to them all the Europeans in the town. We crossed the River +Dzaphin on the ice. It is a terrible stream. Its bed is full of +quicksands, which in summer suck in numbers of camels, horses and +men. We entered a long, winding valley among the mountains covered +with deep snow and here and there with groves of the black wood of +the larch. About halfway to Kobdo we came across the yurta of a +shepherd on the shore of the small Lake of Baga Nor, where evening +and a strong wind whirling gusts of snow in our faces easily +persuaded us to stop. By the yurta stood a splendid bay horse with +a saddle richly ornamerited with silver and coral. As we turned in +from the road, two Mongols left the yurta very hastily; one of them +jumped into the saddle and quickly disappeared in the plain behind +the snowy hillocks. We clearly made out the flashing folds of his +yellow robe under the great outer coat and saw his large knife +sheathed in a green leather scabbard and handled with horn and +ivory. The other man was the host of the yurta, the shepherd of a +local prince, Novontziran. He gave signs of great pleasure at +seeing us and receiving us in his yurta. + +"Who was the rider on the bay horse?" we asked. + +He dropped his eyes and was silent. + +"Tell us," we insisted. "If you do not wish to speak his name, it +means that you are dealing with a bad character." + +"No! No!" he remonstrated, flourishing his hands. "He is a good, +great man; but the law does not permit me to speak his name." + +We at once understood that the man was either the chief of the +shepherd or some high Lama. Consequently we did not further insist +and began making our sleeping arrangements. Our host set three +legs of mutton to boil for us, skillfully cutting out the bones +with his heavy knife. We chatted and learned that no one had seen +Red troops around this region but in Kobdo and in Ulankom the +Chinese soldiers were oppressing the population, and were beating +to death with the bamboo Mongol men who were defending their women +against the ravages of these Chinese troops. Some of the Mongols +had retreated to the mountains to join detachments under the +command of Kaigordoff, an Altai Tartar officer who was supplying +them with weapons. + + +CHAPTER XVIII + +THE MYSTERIOUS LAMA AVENGER + + +We rested soundly in the yurta after the two days of travel which +had brought us one hundred seventy miles through the snow and sharp +cold. Round the evening meal of juicy mutton we were talking +freely and carelessly when suddenly we heard a low, hoarse voice: + +"Sayn--Good evening!" + +We turned around from the brazier to the door and saw a medium +height, very heavy set Mongol in deerskin overcoat and cap with +side flaps and the long, wide tying strings of the same material. +Under his girdle lay the same large knife in the green sheath which +we had seen on the departing horseman. + +"Amoursayn," we answered. + +He quickly untied his girdle and laid aside his overcoat. He stood +before us in a wonderful gown of silk, yellow as beaten gold and +girt with a brilliant blue sash. His cleanly shaven face, short +hair, red coral rosary on the left hand and his yellow garment +proved clearly that before us stood some high Lama Priest,--with a +big Colt under his blue sash! + +I turned to my host and Tzeren and read in their faces fear and +veneration. The stranger came over to the brazier and sat down. + +"Let's speak Russian," he said and took a bit of meat. + +The conversation began. The stranger began to find fault with the +Government of the Living Buddha in Urga. + +"There they liberate Mongolia, capture Urga, defeat the Chinese +army and here in the west they give us no news of it. We are +without action here while the Chinese kill our people and steal +from them. I think that Bogdo Khan might send us envoys. How is +it the Chinese can send their envoys from Urga and Kiakhta to +Kobdo, asking for assistance, and the Mongol Government cannot do +it? Why?" + +"Will the Chinese send help to Urga?" I asked. + +Our guest laughed hoarsely and said: "I caught all the envoys, +took away their letters and then sent them back . . . into the +ground." + +He laughed again and glanced around peculiarly with his blazing +eyes. Only then did I notice that his cheekbones and eyes had +lines strange to the Mongols of Central Asia. He looked more like +a Tartar or a Kirghiz. We were silent and smoked our pipes. + +"How soon will the detachment of Chahars leave Uliassutai?" he +asked. + +We answered that we had not heard about them. Our guest explained +that from Inner Mongolia the Chinese authorities had sent out a +strong detachment, mobilized from among the most warlike tribe of +Chahars, which wander about the region just outside the Great Wall. +Its chief was a notorious hunghutze leader promoted by the Chinese +Government to the rank of captain on promising that he would bring +under subjugation to the Chinese authorities all the tribes of the +districts of Kobdo and Urianhai. When he learned whither we were +going and for what purpose, he said he could give us the most +accurate news and relieve us from the necessity of going farther. + +"Besides that, it is very dangerous," he said, "because Kobdo will +be massacred and burned. I know this positively." + +When he heard of our unsuccessful attempt to pass through Tibet, he +became attentive and very sympathetic in his bearing toward us and, +with evident feeling of regret, expressed himself strongly: + +"Only I could have helped you in this enterprise, but not the +Narabanchi Hutuktu. With my laissez-passer you could have gone +anywhere in Tibet. I am Tushegoun Lama." + +Tushegoun Lama! How many extraordinary tales I had heard about +him. He is a Russian Kalmuck, who because of his propaganda work +for the independence of the Kalmuck people made the acquaintance of +many Russian prisons under the Czar and, for the same cause, added +to his list under the Bolsheviki. He escaped to Mongolia and at +once attained to great influence among the Mongols. It was no +wonder, for he was a close friend and pupil of the Dalai Lama in +Potala (Lhasa), was the most learned among the Lamites, a famous +thaumaturgist and doctor. He occupied an almost independent +position in his relationship with the Living Buddha and achieved to +the leadership of all the old wandering tribes of Western Mongolia +and Zungaria, even extending his political domination over the +Mongolian tribes of Turkestan. His influence was irresistible, +based as it was on his great control of mysterious science, as he +expressed it; but I was also told that it has its foundation +largely in the panicky fear which he could produce in the Mongols. +Everyone who disobeyed his orders perished. Such an one never knew +the day or the hour when, in his yurta or beside his galloping +horse on the plains, the strange and powerful friend of the Dalai +Lama would appear. The stroke of a knife, a bullet or strong +fingers strangling the neck like a vise accomplished the justice of +the plans of this miracle worker. + +Without the walls of the yurta the wind whistled and roared and +drove the frozen snow sharply against the stretched felt. Through +the roar of the wind came the sound of many voices in mingled +shouting, wailing and laughter. I felt that in such surroundings +it were not difficult to dumbfound a wandering nomad with miracles, +because Nature herself had prepared the setting for it. This +thought had scarcely time to flash through my mind before Tushegoun +Lama suddenly raised his head, looked sharply at me and said: + +"There is very much unknown in Nature and the skill of using the +unknown produces the miracle; but the power is given to few. I +want to prove it to you and you may tell me afterwards whether you +have seen it before or not." + +He stood up, pushed back the sleeves of his yellow garment, seized +his knife and strode across to the shepherd. + +"Michik, stand up!" he ordered. + +When the shepherd had risen, the Lama quickly unbuttoned his coat +and bared the man's chest. I could not yet understand what was his +intention, when suddenly the Tushegoun with all his force struck +his knife into the chest of the shepherd. The Mongol fell all +covered with blood, a splash of which I noticed on the yellow silk +of the Lama's coat. + +"What have you done?" I exclaimed. + +"Sh! Be still," he whispered turning to me his now quite blanched +face. + +With a few strokes of the knife he opened the chest of the Mongol +and I saw the man's lungs softly breathing and the distinct +palpitations of the heart. The Lama touched these organs with his +fingers but no more blood appeared to flow and the face of the +shepherd was quite calm. He was lying with his eyes closed and +appeared to be in deep and quiet sleep. As the Lama began to open +his abdomen, I shut my eyes in fear and horror; and, when I opened +them a little while later, I was still more dumbfounded at seeing +the shepherd with his coat still open and his breast normal, +quietly sleeping on his side and Tushegoun Lama sitting peacefully +by the brazier, smoking his pipe and looking into the fire in deep +thought. + +"It is wonderful!" I confessed. "I have never seen anything like +it!" + +"About what are you speaking?" asked the Kalmuck. + +"About your demonstration or 'miracle,' as you call it," I +answered. + +"I never said anything like that," refuted the Kalmuck, with +coldness in his voice. + +"Did you see it?" I asked of my companion. + +"What?" he queried in a dozing voice. + +I realized that I had become the victim of the hypnotic power of +Tushegoun Lama; but I preferred this to seeing an innocent +Mongolian die, for I had not believed that Tushegoun Lama, after +slashing open the bodies of his victims, could repair them again so +readily. + +The following day we took leave of our hosts. We decided to +return, inasmuch as our mission was accomplished; and Tushegoun +Lama explained to us that he would "move through space." He +wandered over all Mongolia, lived both in the single, simple yurta +of the shepherd and hunter and in the splendid tents of the princes +and tribal chiefs, surrounded by deep veneration and panic-fear, +enticing and cementing to him rich and poor alike with his miracles +and prophecies. When bidding us adieu, the Kalmuck sorcerer slyly +smiled and said: + +"Do not give any information about me to the Chinese authorities." + +Afterwards he added: "What happened to you yesterday evening was a +futile demonstration. You Europeans will not recognize that we +dark-minded nomads possess the powers of mysterious science. If +you could only see the miracles and power of the Most Holy Tashi +Lama, when at his command the lamps and candles before the ancient +statue of Buddha light themselves and when the ikons of the gods +begin to speak and prophesy! But there exists a more powerful and +more holy man. . ." + +"Is it the King of the World in Agharti?" I interrupted. + +He stared and glanced at me in amazement. + +"Have you heard about him?" he asked, as his brows knit in thought. + +After a few seconds he raised his narrow eyes and said: "Only one +man knows his holy name; only one man now living was ever in +Agharti. That is I. This is the reason why the Most Holy Dalai +Lama has honored me and why the Living Buddha in Urga fears me. +But in vain, for I shall never sit on the Holy Throne of the +highest priest in Lhasa nor reach that which has come down from +Jenghiz Khan to the Head of our yellow Faith. I am no monk. I am +a warrior and avenger." + +He jumped smartly into the saddle, whipped his horse and whirled +away, flinging out as he left the common Mongolian phrase of adieu: +"Sayn! Sayn-bayna!" + +On the way back Tzeren related to us the hundreds of legends +surrounding Tushegoun Lama. One tale especially remained in my +mind. It was in 1911 or 1912 when the Mongols by armed force tried +to attain their liberty in a struggle with the Chinese. The +general Chinese headquarters in Western Mongolia was Kobdo, where +they had about ten thousand soldiers under the command of their +best officers. The command to capture Kobdo was sent to Hun +Baldon, a simple shepherd who had distinguished himself in fights +with the Chinese and received from the Living Buddha the title of +Prince of Hun. Ferocious, absolutely without fear and possessing +gigantic strength, Baldon had several times led to the attack his +poorly armed Mongols but each time had been forced to retreat after +losing many of his men under the machine-gun fire. Unexpectedly +Tushegoun Lama arrived. He collected all the soldiers and then +said to them: + +"You must not fear death and must not retreat. You are fighting +and dying for Mongolia, for which the gods have appointed a great +destiny. See what the fate of Mongolia will be!" + +He made a great sweeping gesture with his hand and all the soldiers +saw the country round about set with rich yurtas and pastures +covered with great herds of horses and cattle. On the plains +appeared numerous horsemen on richly saddled steeds. The women +were gowned in the finest of silk with massive silver rings in +their ears and precious ornaments in their elaborate head dresses. +Chinese merchants led an endless caravan of merchandise up to +distinguished looking Mongol Saits, surrounded by the gaily dressed +tzirik or soldiers and proudly negotiating with the merchants for +their wares. + +Shortly the vision disappeared and Tushegoun began to speak. + +"Do not fear death! It is a release from our labor on earth and +the path to the state of constant blessings. Look to the East! Do +you see your brothers and friends who have fallen in battle?" + +"We see, we see!" the Mongol warriors exclaimed in astonishment, as +they all looked upon a great group of dwellings which might have +been yurtas or the arches of temples flushed with a warm and kindly +light. Red and yellow silk were interwoven in bright bands that +covered the walls and floor, everywhere the gilding on pillars and +walls gleamed brightly; on the great red altar burned the thin +sacrificial candles in gold candelabra, beside the massive silver +vessels filled with milk and nuts; on soft pillows about the floor +sat the Mongols who had fallen in the previous attack on Kobdo. +Before them stood low, lacquered tables laden with many dishes of +steaming, succulent flesh of the lamb and the kid, with high jugs +of wine and tea, with plates of borsuk, a kind of sweet, rich +cakes, with aromatic zatouran covered with sheep's fat, with bricks +of dried cheese, with dates, raisins and nuts. These fallen +soldiers smoked golden pipes and chatted gaily. + +This vision in turn also disappeared and before the gazing Mongols +stood only the mysterious Kalmuck with his hand upraised. + +"To battle and return not without victory! I am with you in the +fight." + +The attack began. The Mongols fought furiously, perished by the +hundreds but not before they had rushed into the heart of Kobdo. +Then was re-enacted the long forgotten picture of Tartar hordes +destroying European towns. Hun Baldon ordered carried over him a +triangle of lances with brilliant red streamers, a sign that he +gave up the town to the soldiers for three days. Murder and +pillage began. All the Chinese met their death there. The town +was burned and the walls of the fortress destroyed. Afterwards Hun +Baldon came to Uliassutai and also destroyed the Chinese fortress +there. The ruins of it still stand with the broken embattlements +and towers, the useless gates and the remnants of the burned +official quarters and soldiers' barracks. + + +CHAPTER XIX + +WILD CHAHARS + + +After our return to Uliassutai we heard that disquieting news had +been received by the Mongol Sait from Muren Kure. The letter +stated that Red Troops were pressing Colonel Kazagrandi very hard +in the region of Lake Kosogol. The Sait feared the advance of the +Red troops southward to Uliassutai. Both the American firms +liquidated their affairs and all our friends were prepared for a +quick exit, though they hesitated at the thought of leaving the +town, as they were afraid of meeting the detachment of Chahars sent +from the east. We decided to await the arrival of this detachment, +as their coming could change the whole course of events. In a few +days they came, two hundred warlike Chahar brigands under the +command of a former Chinese hunghutze. He was a tall, skinny man +with hands that reached almost to his knees, a face blackened by +wind and sun and mutilated with two long scars down over his +forehead and cheek, the making of one of which had also closed one +of his hawklike eyes, topped off with a shaggy coonskin cap--such +was the commander of the detachment of Chahars. A personage very +dark and stern, with whom a night meeting on a lonely street could +not be considered a pleasure by any bent of the imagination. + +The detachment made camp within the destroyed fortress, near to the +single Chinese building that had not been razed and which was now +serving as headquarters for the Chinese Commissioner. On the very +day of their arrival the Chahars pillaged a Chinese dugun or +trading house not half a mile from the fortress and also offended +the wife of the Chinese Commissioner by calling her a "traitor." +The Chahars, like the Mongols, were quite right in their stand, +because the Chinese Commissioner Wang Tsao-tsun had on his arrival +in Uliassutai followed the Chinese custom of demanding a Mongolian +wife. The servile new Sait had given orders that a beautiful and +suitable Mongolian girl be found for him. One was so run down and +placed in his yamen, together with her big wrestling Mongol brother +who was to be a guard for the Commissioner but who developed into +the nurse for the little white Pekingese pug which the official +presented to his new wife. + +Burglaries, squabbles and drunken orgies of the Chahars followed, +so that Wang Tsoa-tsun exerted all his efforts to hurry the +detachment westward to Kobdo and farther into Urianhai. + +One cold morning the inhabitants of Uliassutai rose to witness a +very stern picture. Along the main street of the town the +detachment was passing. They were riding on small, shaggy ponies, +three abreast; were dressed in warm blue coats with sheepskin +overcoats outside and crowned with the regulation coonskin caps; +armed from head to foot. They rode with wild shouts and cheers, +very greedily eyeing the Chinese shops and the houses of the +Russian colonists. At their head rode the one-eyed hunghutze chief +with three horsemen behind him in white overcoats, who carried +waving banners and blew what may have been meant for music through +great conch shells. One of the Chahars could not resist and so +jumped out of his saddle and made for a Chinese shop along the +street. Immediately the anxious cries of the Chinese merchants +came from the shop. The hunghutze swung round, noticed the horse +at the door of the shop and realized what was happening. +Immediately he reined his horse and made for the spot. With his +raucous voice he called the Chahar out. As he came, he struck him +full in the face with his whip and with all his strength. Blood +flowed from the slashed cheek. But the Chahar was in the saddle in +a second without a murmur and galloped to his place in the file. +During this exit of the Chahars all the people were hidden in their +houses, anxiously peeping through cracks and corners of the +windows. But the Chahars passed peacefully out and only when they +met a caravan carrying Chinese wine about six miles from town did +their native tendency display itself again in pillaging and +emptying several containers. Somewhere in the vicinity of Hargana +they were ambushed by Tushegoun Lama and so treated that never +again will the plains of Chahar welcome the return of these warrior +sons who were sent out to conquer the Soyot descendants of the +ancient Tuba. + +The day the column left Uliassutai a heavy snow fell, so that the +road became impassable. The horses first were up to their knees, +tired out and stopped. Some Mongol horsemen reached Uliassutai the +following day after great hardship and exertion, having made only +twenty-five miles in forty-eight hours. Caravans were compelled to +stop along the routes. The Mongols would not consent even to +attempt journeys with oxen and yaks which made but ten or twelve +miles a day. Only camels could be used but there were too few and +their drivers did not feel that they could make the first railway +station of Kuku-Hoto, which was about fourteen hundred miles away. +We were forced again to wait: for which? Death or salvation? Only +our own energy and force could save us. Consequently my friend and +I started out, supplied with a tent, stove and food, for a new +reconnaissance along the shore of Lake Kosogol, whence the Mongol +Sait expected the new invasion of Red troops. + + +CHAPTER XX + +THE DEMON OF JAGISSTAI + + +Our small group consisting of four mounted and one pack camel moved +northward along the valley of the River Boyagol in the direction of +the Tarbagatai Mountains. The road was rocky and covered deep with +snow. Our camels walked very carefully, sniffing out the way as +our guide shouted the "Ok! Ok!" of the camel drivers to urge them +on. We left behind us the fortress and Chinese dugun, swung round +the shoulder of a ridge and, after fording several times an open +stream, began the ascent of the mountain. The scramble was hard +and dangerous. Our camels picked their way most cautiously, moving +their ears constantly, as is their habit in such stress. The trail +zigzagged into mountain ravines, passed over the tops of ridges, +slipped back down again into shallower valleys but ever made higher +and higher altitudes. At one place under the grey clouds that +tipped the ridges we saw away up on the wide expanse of snow some +black spots. + +"Those are the obo, the sacred signs and altars for the bad demons +watching this pass," explained the guide. "This pass is called +Jagisstai. Many very old tales about it have been kept alive, +ancient as these mountains themselves." + +We encouraged him to tell us some of them. + +The Mongol, rocking on his camel and looking carefully all around +him, began his tale. + +"It was long ago, very long ago. . . . The grandson of the great +Jenghiz Khan sat on the throne of China and ruled all Asia. The +Chinese killed their Khan and wanted to exterminate all his family +but a holy old Lama slipped the wife and little son out of the +palace and carried them off on swift camels beyond the Great Wall, +where they sank into our native plains. The Chinese made a long +search for the trails of our refugees and at last found where they +had gone. They despatched a strong detachment on fleet horses to +capture them. Sometimes the Chinese nearly came up with the +fleeing heir of our Khan but the Lama called down from Heaven a +deep snow, through which the camels could pass while the horses +were inextricably held. This Lama was from a distant monastery. +We shall pass this hospice of Jahantsi Kure. In order to reach it +one must cross over the Jagisstai. And it was just here the old +Lama suddenly became ill, rocked in his saddle and fell dead. Ta +Sin Lo, the widow of the Great Khan, burst into tears; but, seeing +the Chinese riders galloping there below across the valley, pressed +on toward the pass. The camels were tired, stopping every moment, +nor did the woman know how to stimulate and drive them on. The +Chinese riders came nearer and nearer. Already she heard their +shouts of joy, as they felt within their grasp the prize of the +mandarins for the murder of the heir of the Great Khan. The heads +of the mother and the son would be brought to Peking and exposed on +the Ch'ien Men for the mockery and insults of the people. The +frightened mother lifted her little son toward heaven and +exclaimed: + +"'Earth and Gods of Mongolia, behold the offspring of the man who +has glorified the name of the Mongols from one end of the world to +the other! Allow not this very flesh of Jenghiz Khan to perish!' + +"At this moment she noticed a white mouse sitting on a rock nearby. +It jumped to her knees and said: + +"'I am sent to help you. Go on calmly and do not fear. The +pursuers of you and your son, to whom is destined a life of glory, +have come to the last bourne of their lives.' + +"Ta Sin Lo did not see how one small mouse could hold in check +three hundred men. The mouse jumped back to the ground and again +spoke: + +"'I am the demon of Tarbagatai, Jagasstai. I am mighty and beloved +of the Gods but, because you doubted the powers of the miracle- +speaking mouse, from this day the Jagasstai will be dangerous for +the good and bad alike.' + +"The Khan's widow and son were saved but Jagasstai has ever +remained merciless. During the journey over this pass one must +always be on one's guard. The demon of the mountain is ever ready +to lead the traveler to destruction." + +All the tops of the ridges of the Tarbagatai are thickly dotted +with the obo of rocks and branches. In one place there was even +erected a tower of stones as an altar to propitiate the Gods for +the doubts of Ta Sin Lo. Evidently the demon expected us. When we +began our ascent of the main ridge, he blew into our faces with a +sharp, cold wind, whistled and roared and afterwards began casting +over us whole blocks of snow torn off the drifts above. We could +not distinguish anything around us, scarcely seeing the camel +immediately in front. Suddenly I felt a shock and looked about me. +Nothing unusual was visible. I was seated comfortably between two +leather saddle bags filled with meat and bread but . . . I could +not see the head of my camel. He had disappeared. It seemed that +he had slipped and fallen to the bottom of a shallow ravine, while +the bags which were slung across his back without straps had caught +on a rock and stopped with myself there in the snow. This time the +demon of Jagasstai only played a joke but one that did not satisfy +him. He began to show more and more anger. With furious gusts of +wind he almost dragged us and our bags from the camels and nearly +knocked over our humped steeds, blinded us with frozen snow and +prevented us from breathing. Through long hours we dragged slowly +on in the deep snow, often falling over the edge of the rocks. At +last we entered a small valley where the wind whistled and roared +with a thousand voices. It had grown dark. The Mongol wandered +around searching for the trail and finally came back to us, +flourishing his arms and saying: + +"We have lost the road. We must spend the night here. It is very +bad because we shall have no wood for our stove and the cold will +grow worse. + +With great difficulties and with frozen hands we managed to set up +our tent in the wind, placing in it the now useless stove. We +covered the tent with snow, dug deep, long ditches in the drifts +and forced our camels to lie down in them by shouting the "Dzuk! +Dzuk!" command to kneel. Then we brought our packs into the tent. + +My companion rebelled against the thought of spending a cold night +with a stove hard by. + +"I am going out to look for firewood," said he very decisively; and +at that took up the ax and started. He returned after an hour with +a big section of a telegraph pole. + +"You, Jenghiz Khans," said he, rubbing his frozen hands, "take your +axes and go up there to the left on the mountain and you will find +the telegraph poles that have been cut down. I made acquaintance +with the old Jagasstai and he showed me the poles." + +Just a little way from us the line of the Russian telegraphs +passed, that which had connected Irkutsk with Uliassutai before the +days of the Bolsheviki and which the Chinese had commanded the +Mongols to cut down and take the wire. These poles are now the +salvation of travelers crossing the pass. Thus we spent the night +in a warm tent, supped well from hot meat soup with vermicelli, all +in the very center of the dominion of the angered Jagasstai. Early +the next morning we found the road not more than two or three +hundred paces from our tent and continued our hard trip over the +ridge of Tarbagatai. At the head of the Adair River valley we +noticed a flock of the Mongolian crows with carmine beaks circling +among the rocks. We approached the place and discovered the +recently fallen bodies of a horse and rider. What had happened to +them was difficult to guess. They lay close together; the bridle +was wound around the right wrist of the man; no trace of knife or +bullet was found. It was impossible to make out the features of +the man. His overcoat was Mongolian but his trousers and under +jacket were not of the Mongolian pattern. We asked ourselves what +had happened to him. + +Our Mongol bowed his head in anxiety and said in hushed but assured +tones: "It is the vengeance of Jagasstai. The rider did not make +sacrifice at the southern obo and the demon has strangled him and +his horse." + +At last Tarbagatai was behind us. Before us lay the valley of the +Adair. It was a narrow zigzagging plain following along the river +bed between close mountain ranges and covered with a rich grass. +It was cut into two parts by the road along which the prostrate +telegraph poles now lay, as the stumps of varying heights and long +stretches of wire completed the debris. This destruction of the +telegraph line between Irkutsk and Uliassutai was necessary and +incident to the aggressive Chinese policy in Mongolia. + +Soon we began to meet large herds of sheep, which were digging +through the snow to the dry but very nutritious grass. In some +places yaks and oxen were seen on the high slopes of the mountains. +Only once, however, did we see a shepherd, for all of them, spying +us first, had made off to the mountains or hidden in the ravines. +We did not even discover any yurtas along the way. The Mongols had +also concealed all their movable homes in the folds of the +mountains out of sight and away from the reach of the strong winds. +Nomads are very skilful in choosing the places for their winter +dwellings. I had often in winter visited the Mongolian yurtas set +in such sheltered places that, as I came off the windy plains, I +felt as though I were in a conservatory. Once we came up to a big +herd of sheep. But as we approached most of the herd gradually +withdrew, leaving one part that remained unmoved as the other +worked off across the plains. From this section soon about thirty +of forty head emerged and went scrambling and leaping right up the +mountain side. I took up my glasses and began to observe them. +The part of the herd that remained behind were common sheep; the +large section that had drawn off over the plain were Mongolian +antelopes (gazella gutturosa); while the few that had taken to the +mountain were the big horned sheep (ovis argali). All this company +had been grazing together with the domestic sheep on the plains of +the Adair, which attracted them with its good grass and clear +water. In many places the river was not frozen and in some places +I saw great clouds of steam over the surface of the open water. In +the meantime some of the antelopes and the mountain sheep began +looking at us. + +"Now they will soon begin to cross our trail," laughed the Mongol; +"very funny beasts. Sometimes the antelopes course for miles in +their endeavor to outrun and cross in front of our horses and then, +when they have done so, go loping quietly off." + +I had already seen this strategy of the antelopes and I decided to +make use of it for the purpose of the hunt. We organized our chase +in the following manner. We let one Mongol with the pack camel +proceed as we had been traveling and the other three of us spread +out like a fan headed toward the herd on the right of our true +course. The herd stopped and looked about puzzled, for their +etiquette required that they should cross the path of all four of +these riders at once. Confusion began. They counted about three +thousand heads. All this army began to run from one side to +another but without forming any distinct groups. Whole squadrons +of them ran before us and then, noticing another rider, came +coursing back and made anew the same manoeuvre. One group of about +fifty head rushed in two rows toward my point. When they were +about a hundred and fifty paces away I shouted and fired. They +stopped at once and began to whirl round in one spot, running into +one another and even jumping over one another. Their panic cost +them dear, for I had time to shoot four times to bring down two +beautiful heads. My friend was even more fortunate than I, for he +shot only once into the herd as it rushed past him in parallel +lines and dropped two with the same bullet. + +Meanwhile the argali had gone farther up the mountainside and taken +stand there in a row like so many soldiers, turning to gaze at us. +Even at this distance I could clearly distinguish their muscular +bodies with their majestic heads and stalwart horns. Picking up +our prey, we overtook the Mongol who had gone on ahead and +continued our way. In many places we came across the carcasses of +sheep with necks torn and the flesh of the sides eaten off. + +"It is the work of wolves," said the Mongol. "They are always +hereabout in large numbers." + +We came across several more herds of antelope, which ran along +quietly enough until they had made a comfortable distance ahead of +us and then with tremendous leaps and bounds crossed our bows like +the proverbial chicken on the road. Then, after a couple of +hundred paces at this speed, they stopped and began to graze quite +calmly. Once I turned my camel back and the whole herd immediately +took up the challenge again, coursed along parallel with me until +they had made sufficient distance for their ideas of safety and +then once more rushed across the road ahead of me as though it were +paved with red hot stones, only to assume their previous calmness +and graze back on the same side of the trail from which our column +had first started them. On another occasion I did this three times +with a particular herd and laughed long and heartily at their +stupid customs. + +We passed a very unpleasant night in this valley. We stopped on +the shore of the frozen stream in a spot where we found shelter +from the wind under the lee of a high shore. In our stove we did +have a fire and in our kettle boiling water. Also our tent was +warm and cozy. We were quietly resting with pleasant thoughts of +supper to soothe us, when suddenly a howling and laughter as though +from some inferno burst upon us from just outside the tent, while +from the other side of the valley came the long and doleful howls +in answer. + +"Wolves," calmly explained the Mongol, who took my revolver and +went out of the tent. He did not return for some time but at last +we heard a shot and shortly after he entered. + +"I scared them a little," said he. "They had congregated on the +shore of the Adair around the body of a camel." + +"And they have not touched our camels?" we asked. + +"We shall make a bonfire behind our tent; then they will not bother +us." + +After our supper we turned in but I lay awake for a long time +listening to the crackle of the wood in the fire, the deep sighing +breaths of the camels and the distant howling of the packs of +wolves; but finally, even with all these noises, fell asleep. How +long I had been asleep I did not know when suddenly I was awakened +by a strong blow in the side. I was lying at the very edge of the +tent and someone from outside had, without the least ceremony, +pushed strongly against me. I thought it was one of the camels +chewing the felt of the tent. I took my Mauser and struck the +wall. A sharp scream was followed by the sound of quick running +over the pebbles. In the morning we discovered the tracks of +wolves approaching our tent from the side opposite to the fire and +followed them to where they had begun to dig under the tent wall; +but evidently one of the would-be robbers was forced to retreat +with a bruise on his head from the handle of the Mauser. + +Wolves and eagles are the servants of Jagasstai, the Mongol very +seriously instructed us. However, this does not prevent the +Mongols from hunting them. Once in the camp of Prince Baysei I +witnessed such a hunt. The Mongol horsemen on the best of his +steeds overtook the wolves on the open plain and killed them with +heavy bamboo sticks or tashur. A Russian veterinary surgeon taught +the Mongols to poison wolves with strychnine but the Mongols soon +abandoned this method because of its danger to the dogs, the +faithful friends and allies of the nomad. They do not, however, +touch the eagles and hawks but even feed them. When the Mongols +are slaughtering animals they often cast bits of meat up into the +air for the hawks and eagles to catch in flight, just as we throw a +bit of meat to a dog. Eagles and hawks fight and drive away the +magpies and crows, which are very dangerous for cattle and horses, +because they scratch and peck at the smallest wound or abrasion on +the backs of the animals until they make them into uncurable areas +which they continue to harass. + + +CHAPTER XXI + +THE NEST OF DEATH + + +Our camels were trudging to a slow but steady measure on toward the +north. We were making twenty-five to thirty miles a day as we +approached a small monastery that lay to the left of our route. It +was in the form of a square of large buildings surrounded by a high +fence of thick poles. Each side had an opening in the middle +leading to the four entrances of the temple in the center of the +square. The temple was built with the red lacquered columns and +the Chinese style roofs and dominated the surrounding low dwellings +of the Lamas. On the opposite side of the road lay what appeared +to be a Chinese fortress but which was in reality a trading +compound or dugun, which the Chinese always build in the form of a +fortress with double walls a few feet apart, within which they +place their houses and shops and usually have twenty or thirty +traders fully armed for any emergency. In case of need these +duguns can be used as blockhouses and are capable of withstanding +long sieges. Between the dugun and the monastery and nearer to the +road I made out the camp of some nomads. Their horses and cattle +were nowhere to be seen. Evidently the Mongols had stopped here +for some time and had left their cattle in the mountains. Over +several yurtas waved multi-colored triangular flags, a sign of the +presence of disease. Near some yurtas high poles were stuck into +the ground with Mongol caps at their tops, which indicated that the +host of the yurta had died. The packs of dogs wandering over the +plain showed that the dead bodies lay somewhere near, either in the +ravines or along the banks of the river. + +As we approached the camp, we heard from a distance the frantic +beating of drums, the mournful sounds of the flute and shrill, mad +shouting. Our Mongol went forward to investigate for us and +reported that several Mongolian families had come here to the +monastery to seek aid from the Hutuktu Jahansti who was famed for +his miracles of healing. The people were stricken with leprosy and +black smallpox and had come from long distances only to find that +the Hutuktu was not at the monastery but had gone to the Living +Buddha in Urga. Consequently they had been forced to invite the +witch doctors. The people were dying one after another. Just the +day before they had cast on the plain the twenty-seventh man. + +Meanwhile, as we talked, the witch doctor came out of one of the +yurtas. He was an old man with a cataract on one eye and with a +face deeply scarred by smallpox. He was dressed in tatters with +various colored bits of cloth hanging down from his waist. He +carried a drum and a flute. We could see froth on his blue lips +and madness in his eyes. Suddenly he began to whirl round and +dance with a thousand prancings of his long legs and writhings of +his arms and shoulders, still beating the drum and playing the +flute or crying and raging at intervals, ever accelerating his +movements until at last with pallid face and bloodshot eyes he fell +on the snow, where he continued to writhe and give out his +incoherent cries. In this manner the doctor treated his patients, +frightening with his madness the bad devils that carry disease. +Another witch doctor gave his patients dirty, muddy water, which I +learned was the water from the bath of the very person of the +Living Buddha who had washed in it his "divine" body born from the +sacred flower of the lotus. + +"Om! Om!" both witches continuously screamed. + +While the doctors fought with the devils, the ill people were left +to themselves. They lay in high fever under the heaps of +sheepskins and overcoats, were delirious, raved and threw +themselves about. By the braziers squatted adults and children who +were still well, indifferently chatting, drinking tea and smoking. +In all the yurtas I saw the diseased and the dead and such misery +and physical horrors as cannot be described. + +And I thought: "Oh, Great Jenghiz Khan! Why did you with your +keen understanding of the whole situation of Asia and Europe, you +who devoted all your life to the glory of the name of the Mongols, +why did you not give to your own people, who preserve their old +morality, honesty and peaceful customs, the enlightenment that +would have saved them from such death? Your bones in the mausoleum +at Karakorum being destroyed by the centuries that pass over them +must cry out against the rapid disappearance of your formerly great +people, who were feared by half the civilized world!" + +Such thoughts filled my brain when I saw this camp of the dead +tomorrow and when I heard the groans, shoutings and raving of dying +men, women and children. Somewhere in the distance the dogs were +howling mournfully, and monotonously the drum of the tired witch +rolled. + +"Forward!" I could not witness longer this dark horror, which I +had no means or force to eradicate. We quickly passed on from the +ominous place. Nor could we shake the thought that some horrible +invisible spirit was following us from this scene of terror. "The +devils of disease?" "The pictures of horror and misery?" "The +souls of men who have been sacrificed on the altar of darkness of +Mongolia?" An inexplicable fear penetrated into our consciousness +from whose grasp we could not release ourselves. Only when we had +turned from the road, passed over a timbered ridge into a bowl in +the mountains from which we could see neither Jahantsi Kure, the +dugun nor the squirming grave of dying Mongols could we breathe +freely again. + +Presently we discovered a large lake. It was Tisingol. Near the +shore stood a large Russian house, the telegraph station between +Kosogol and Uliassutai. + + +CHAPTER XXII + +AMONG THE MURDERERS + + +As we approached the telegraph station, we were met by a blonde +young man who was in charge of the office, Kanine by name. With +some little confusion he offered us a place in his house for the +night. When we entered the room, a tall, lanky man rose from the +table and indecisively walked toward us, looking very attentively +at us the while. + +"Guests . . ." explained Kanine. "They are going to Khathyl. +Private persons, strangers, foreigners . . ." + +"A-h," drawled the stranger in a quiet, comprehending tone. + +While we were untying our girdles and with difficulty getting out +of our great Mongolian coats, the tall man was animatedly +whispering something to our host. As we approached the table to +sit down and rest, I overheard him say: "We are forced to postpone +it," and saw Kanine simply nod in answer. + +Several other people were seated at the table, among them the +assistant of Kanine, a tall blonde man with a white face, who +talked like a Gatling gun about everything imaginable. He was half +crazy and his semi-madness expressed itself when any loud talking, +shouting or sudden sharp report led him to repeat the words of the +one to whom he was talking at the time or to relate in a +mechanical, hurried manner stories of what was happening around him +just at this particular juncture. The wife of Kanine, a pale, +young, exhausted-looking woman with frightened eyes and a face +distorted by fear, was also there and near her a young girl of +fifteen with cropped hair and dressed like a man, as well as the +two small sons of Kanine. We made acquaintance with all of them. +The tall stranger called himself Gorokoff, a Russian colonist from +Samgaltai, and presented the short-haired girl as his sister. +Kanine's wife looked at us with plainly discernible fear and said +nothing, evidently displeased over our being there. However, we +had no choice and consequently began drinking tea and eating our +bread and cold meat. + +Kanine told us that ever since the telegraph line had been +destroyed all his family and relatives had felt very keenly the +poverty and hardship that naturally followed. The Bolsheviki did +not send him any salary from Irkutsk, so that he was compelled to +shift for himself as best he could. They cut and cured hay for +sale to the Russian colonists, handled private messages and +merchandise from Khathyl to Uliassutai and Samgaltai, bought and +sold cattle, hunted and in this manner managed to exist. Gorokoff +announced that his commercial affairs compelled him to go to +Khathyl and that he and his sister would be glad to join our +caravan. He had a most unprepossessing, angry-looking face with +colorless eyes that always avoided those of the person with whom he +was speaking. During the conversation we asked Kanine if there +were Russian colonists near by, to which he answered with knitted +brow and a look of disgust on his face: + +"There is one rich old man, Bobroff, who lives a verst away from +our station; but I would not advise you to visit him. He is a +miserly, inhospitable old fellow who does not like guests." + +During these words of her husband Madame Kanine dropped her eyes +and contracted her shoulders in something resembling a shudder. +Gorokoff and his sister smoked along indifferently. I very clearly +remarked all this as well as the hostile tone of Kanine, the +confusion of his wife and the artificial indifference of Gorokoff; +and I determined to see the old colonist given such a bad name by +Kanine. In Uliassutai I knew two Bobroffs. I said to Kanine that +I had been asked to hand a letter personally to Bobroff and, after +finishing my tea, put on my overcoat and went out. + +The house of Bobroff stood in a deep sink in the mountains, +surrounded by a high fence over which the low roofs of the houses +could be seen. A light shone through the window. I knocked at the +gate. A furious barking of dogs answered me and through the cracks +of the fence I made out four huge black Mongol dogs, showing their +teeth and growling as they rushed toward the gate. Inside the +court someone opened the door and called out: "Who is there?" + +I answered that I was traveling through from Uliassutai. The dogs +were first caught and chained and I was then admitted by a man who +looked me over very carefully and inquiringly from head to foot. A +revolver handle stuck out of his pocket. Satisfied with his +observations and learning that I knew his relatives, he warmly +welcomed me to the house and presented me to his wife, a dignified +old woman, and to his beautiful little adopted daughter, a girl of +five years. She had been found on the plain beside the dead body +of her mother exhausted in her attempt to escape from the +Bolsheviki in Siberia. + +Bobroff told me that the Russian detachment of Kazagrandi had +succeeded in driving the Red troops away from the Kosogol and that +we could consequently continue our trip to Khathyl without danger. + +"Why did you not stop with me instead of with those brigands?" +asked the old fellow. + +I began to question him and received some very important news. It +seemed that Kanine was a Bolshevik, the agent of the Irkutsk +Soviet, and stationed here for purposes of observation. However, +now he was rendered harmless, because the road between him and +Irkutsk was interrupted. Still from Biisk in the Altai country had +just come a very important commissar. + +"Gorokoff?" I asked. + +"That's what he calls himself," replied the old fellow; "but I am +also from Biisk and I know everyone there. His real name is +Pouzikoff and the short-haired girl with him is his mistress. He +is the commissar of the 'Cheka' and she is the agent of this +establishment. Last August the two of them shot with their +revolvers seventy bound officers from Kolchak's army. Villainous, +cowardly murderers! Now they have come here for a reconnaissance. +They wanted to stay in my house but I knew them too well and +refused them place." + +"And you do not fear him?" I asked, remembering the different words +and glances of these people as they sat at the table in the +station. + +"No," answered the old man. "I know how to defend myself and my +family and I have a protector too--my son, such a shot, a rider and +a fighter as does not exist in all Mongolia. I am very sorry that +you will not make the acquaintance of my boy. He has gone off to +the herds and will return only tomorrow evening." + +We took most cordial leave of each other and I promised to stop +with him on my return. + +"Well, what yarns did Bobroff tell you about us?" was the question +with which Kanine and Gorokoff met me when I came back to the +station. + +"Nothing about you," I answered, "because he did not even want to +speak with me when he found out that I was staying in your house. +What is the trouble between you?" I asked of them, expressing +complete astonishment on my face. + +"It is an old score," growled Gorokoff. + +"A malicious old churl," Kanine added in agreement, the while the +frightened, suffering-laden eyes of his wife again gave expression +to terrifying horror, as if she momentarily expected a deadly blow. +Gorokoff began to pack his luggage in preparation for the journey +with us the following morning. We prepared our simple beds in an +adjoining room and went to sleep. I whispered to my friend to keep +his revolver handy for anything that might happen but he only +smiled as he dragged his revolver and his ax from his coat to place +them under his pillow. + +"This people at the outset seemed to me very suspicious," he +whispered. "They are cooking up something crooked. Tomorrow I +shall ride behind this Gorokoff and shall prepare for him a very +faithful one of my bullets, a little dum-dum." + +The Mongols spent the night under their tent in the open court +beside their camels, because they wanted to be near to feed them. +About seven o'clock we started. My friend took up his post as rear +guard to our caravan, keeping all the time behind Gorokoff, who +with his sister, both armed from tip to toe, rode splendid mounts. + +"How have you kept your horses in such fine condition coming all +the way from Samgaltai?" I inquired as I looked over their fine +beasts. + +When he answered that these belonged to his host, I realized that +Kanine was not so poor as he made out; for any rich Mongol would +have given him in exchange for one of these lovely animals enough +sheep to have kept his household in mutton for a whole year. + +Soon we came to a large swamp surrounded by dense brush, where I +was much astonished by seeing literally hundreds of white kuropatka +or partridges. Out of the water rose a flock of duck with a mad +rush as we hove in sight. Winter, cold driving wind, snow and wild +ducks! The Mongol explained it to me thus: + +"This swamp always remains warm and never freezes. The wild ducks +live here the year round and the kuropatka too, finding fresh food +in the soft warm earth." + +As I was speaking with the Mongol I noticed over the swamp a tongue +of reddish-yellow flame. It flashed and disappeared at once but +later, on the farther edge, two further tongues ran upward. I +realized that here was the real will-o'-the-wisp surrounded by so +many thousands of legends and explained so simply by chemistry as +merely a flash of methane or swamp gas generated by the putrefying +of vegetable matter in the warm damp earth. + +"Here dwell the demons of Adair, who are in perpetual war with +those of Muren," explained the Mongol. + +"Indeed," I thought, "if in prosaic Europe in our days the +inhabitants of our villages believe these flames to be some wild +sorcery, then surely in the land of mystery they must be at least +the evidences of war between the demons of two neighboring rivers!" + +After passing this swamp we made out far ahead of us a large +monastery. Though this was some half mile off the road, the +Gorokoffs said they would ride over to it to make some purchases in +the Chinese shops there. They quickly rode away, promising to +overtake us shortly, but we did not see them again for a while. +They slipped away without leaving any trail but we met them later +in very unexpected circumstances of fatal portent for them. On our +part we were highly satisfied that we were rid of them so soon and, +after they were gone, I imparted to my friend the information +gleaned from Bobroff the evening before. + + +CHAPTER XXIII + +ON A VOLCANO + + +The following evening we arrived at Khathyl, a small Russian +settlement of ten scattered houses in the valley of the Egingol or +Yaga, which here takes its waters from the Kosogol half a mile +above the village. The Kosogol is a huge Alpine lake, deep and +cold, eighty-five miles in length and from ten to thirty in width. +On the western shore live the Darkhat Soyots, who call it Hubsugul, +the Mongols, Kosogol. Both the Soyots and Mongols consider this a +terrible and sacred lake. It is very easy to understand this +prejudice because the lake lies in a region of present volcanic +activity, where in the summer on perfectly calm sunny days it +sometimes lashes itself into great waves that are dangerous not +only to the native fishing boats but also to the large Russian +passenger steamers that ply on the lake. In winter also it +sometimes entirely breaks up its covering of ice and gives off +great clouds of steam. Evidently the bottom of the lake is +sporadically pierced by discharging hot springs or, perhaps, by +streams of lava. Evidence of some great underground convulsion +like this is afforded by the mass of killed fish which at times +dams the outlet river in its shallow places. The lake is +exceedingly rich in fish, chiefly varieties of trout and salmon, +and is famous for its wonderful "white fish," which was previously +sent all over Siberia and even down into Manchuria so far as +Moukden. It is fat and remarkably tender and produces fine caviar. +Another variety in the lake is the white khayrus or trout, which in +the migration season, contrary to the customs of most fish, goes +down stream into the Yaga, where it sometimes fills the river from +bank to bank with swarms of backs breaking the surface of the +water. However, this fish is not caught, because it is infested +with worms and is unfit for food. Even cats and dogs will not +touch it. This is a very interesting phemonenon and was being +investigated and studied by Professor Dorogostaisky of the +University at Irkutsk when the coming of the Bolsheviki interrupted +his work. + +In Khathyl we found a panic. The Russian detachment of Colonel +Kazagrandi, after having twice defeated the Bolsheviki and well on +its march against Irkutsk, was suddenly rendered impotent and +scattered through internal strife among the officers. The +Bolsheviki took advantage of this situation, increased their forces +to one thousand men and began a forward movement to recover what +they had lost, while the remnants of Colonel Kazagrandi's +detachment were retreating on Khathyl, where he determined to make +his last stand against the Reds. The inhabitants were loading +their movable property with their families into carts and scurrying +away from the town, leaving all their cattle and horses to +whomsoever should have the power to seize and hold them. One party +intended to hide in the dense larch forest and the mountain ravines +not far away, while another party made southward for Muren Kure and +Uliassutai. The morning following our arrival the Mongol official +received word that the Red troops had outflanked Colonel +Kazagrandi's men and were approaching Khathyl. The Mongol loaded +his documents and his servants on eleven camels and left his yamen. +Our Mongol guides, without ever saying a word to us, secretly +slipped off with him and left us without camels. Our situation +thus became desperate. We hastened to the colonists who had not +yet got away to bargain with them for camels, but they had +previously, in anticipation of trouble, sent their herds to distant +Mongols and so could do nothing to help us. Then we betook +ourselves to Dr. V. G. Gay, a veterinarian living in the town, +famous throughout Mongolia for his battle against rinderpest. He +lived here with his family and after being forced to give up his +government work became a cattle dealer. He was a most interesting +person, clever and energetic, and the one who had been appointed +under the Czarist regime to purchase all the meat supplies from +Mongolia for the Russian Army on the German Front. He organized a +huge enterprise in Mongolia but when the Bolsheviki seized power in +1917 he transferred his allegiance and began to work with them. +Then in May, 1918, when the Kolchak forces drove the Bolsheviki out +of Siberia, he was arrested and taken for trial. However, he was +released because he was looked upon as the single individual to +organize this big Mongolian enterprise and he handed to Admiral +Kolchak all the supplies of meat and the silver formerly received +from the Soviet commissars. At this time Gay had been serving as +the chief organizer and supplier of the forces of Kazagrandi. + +When we went to him, he at once suggested that we take the only +thing left, some poor, broken-down horses which would be able to +carry us the sixty miles to Muren Kure, where we could secure +camels to return to Uliassutai. However, even these were being +kept some distance from the town so that we should have to spend +the night there, the night in which the Red troops were expected to +arrive. Also we were much astonished to see that Gay was remaining +there with his family right up to the time of the expected arrival +of the Reds. The only others in the town were a few Cossacks, who +had been ordered to stay behind to watch the movements of the Red +troops. The night came. My friend and I were prepared either to +fight or, in the last event, to commit suicide. We stayed in a +small house near the Yaga, where some workmen were living who could +not, and did not feel it necessary to, leave. They went up on a +hill from which they could scan the whole country up to the range +from behind which the Red detachment must appear. From this +vantage point in the forest one of the workmen came running in and +cried out: + +"Woe, woe to us! The Reds have arrived. A horseman is galloping +fast through the forest road. I called to him but he did not +answer me. It was dark but I knew the horse was a strange one." + +"Do not babble so," said another of the workmen. "Some Mongol rode +by and you jumped to the conclusion that he was a Red." + +"No, it was not a Mongol," he replied. "The horse was shod. I +heard the sound of iron shoes on the road. Woe to us!" + +"Well," said my friend, "it seems that this is our finish. It is a +silly way for it all to end." + +He was right. Just then there was a knock at our door but it was +that of the Mongol bringing us three horses for our escape. +Immediately we saddled them, packed the third beast with our tent +and food and rode off at once to take leave of Gay. + +In his house we found the whole war council. Two or three +colonists and several Cossacks had galloped from the mountains and +announced that the Red detachment was approaching Khathyl but would +remain for the night in the forest, where they were building +campfires. In fact, through the house windows we could see the +glare of the fires. It seemed very strange that the enemy should +await the morning there in the forest when they were right on the +village they wished to capture. + +An armed Cossack entered the room and announced that two armed men +from the detachment were approaching. All the men in the room +pricked up their ears. Outside were heard the horses' hoofs +followed by men's voices and a knock at the door. + +"Come in," said Gay. + +Two young men entered, their moustaches and beards white and their +cheeks blazing red from the cold. They were dressed in the common +Siberian overcoat with the big Astrakhan caps, but they had no +weapons. Questions began. It developed that it was a detachment +of White peasants from the Irkutsk and Yakutsk districts who had +been fighting with the Bolsheviki. They had been defeated +somewhere in the vicinity of Irkutsk and were now trying to make a +junction with Kazagrandi. The leader of this band was a socialist, +Captain Vassilieff, who had suffered much under the Czar because of +his tenets. + +Our troubles had vanished but we decided to start immediately to +Muren Kure, as we had gathered our information and were in a hurry +to make our report. We started. On the road we overtook three +Cossacks who were going out to bring back the colonists who were +fleeing to the south. We joined them and, dismounting, we all led +our horses over the ice. The Yaga was mad. The subterranean +forces produced underneath the ice great heaving waves which with a +swirling roar threw up and tore loose great sections of ice, +breaking them into small blocks and sucking them under the unbroken +downstream field. Cracks ran like snakes over the surface in +different directions. One of the Cossacks fell into one of these +but we had just time to save him. He was forced by his ducking in +such extreme cold to turn back to Khathyl. Our horses slipped +about and fell several times. Men and animals felt the presence of +death which hovered over them and momentarily threatened them with +destruction. At last we made the farther bank and continued +southward down the valley, glad to have left the geological and +figurative volcanoes behind us. Ten miles farther on we came up +with the first party of refugees. They had spread a big tent and +made a fire inside, filling it with warmth and smoke. Their camp +was made beside the establishment of a large Chinese trading house, +where the owners refused to let the colonists come into their amply +spacious buildings, even though there were children, women and +invalids among the refugees. We spent but half an hour here. The +road as we continued was easy, save in places where the snow lay +deep. We crossed the fairly high divide between the Egingol and +Muren. Near the pass one very unexpected event occurred to us. We +crossed the mouth of a fairly wide valley whose upper end was +covered with a dense wood. Near this wood we noticed two horsemen, +evidently watching us. Their manner of sitting in their saddles +and the character of their horses told us that they were not +Mongols. We began shouting and waving to them; but they did not +answer. Out of the wood emerged a third and stopped to look at us. +We decided to interview them and, whipping up our horses, galloped +toward them. When we were about one thousand yards from them, they +slipped from their saddles and opened on us with a running fire. +Fortunately we rode a little apart and thus made a poor target for +them. We jumped off our horses, dropped prone on the ground and +prepared to fight. However, we did not fire because we thought it +might be a mistake on their part, thinking that we were Reds. They +shortly made off. Their shots from the European rifles had given +us further proof that they were not Mongols. We waited until they +had disappeared into the woods and then went forward to investigate +their tracks, which we found were those of shod horses, clearly +corroborating the earlier evidence that they were not Mongols. Who +could they have been? We never found out; yet what a different +relationship they might have borne to our lives, had their shots +been true! + +After we had passed over the divide, we met the Russian colonist D. +A. Teternikoff from Muren Kure, who invited us to stay in his house +and promised to secure camels for us from the Lamas. The cold was +intense and heightened by a piercing wind. During the day we froze +to the bone but at night thawed and warmed up nicely by our tent +stove. After two days we entered the valley of Muren and from afar +made out the square of the Kure with its Chinese roofs and large +red temples. Nearby was a second square, the Chinese and Russian +settlement. Two hours more brought us to the house of our +hospitable companion and his attractive young wife who feasted us +with a wonderful luncheon of tasty dishes. We spent five days at +Muren waiting for the camels to be engaged. During this time many +refugees arrived from Khathyl because Colonel Kazagrandi was +gradually falling back upon the town. Among others there were two +Colonels, Plavako and Maklakoff, who had caused the disruption of +the Kazagrandi force. No sooner had the refugees appeared in Muren +Kure than the Mongolian officials announced that the Chinese +authorities had ordered them to drive out all Russian refugees. + +"Where can we go now in winter with women and children and no homes +of our own?" asked the distraught refugees. + +"That is of no moment to us," answered the Mongolian officials. +"The Chinese authorities are angry and have ordered us to drive you +away. We cannot help you at all." + +The refugees had to leave Muren Kure and so erected their tents in +the open not far away. Plavako and Maklakoff bought horses and +started out for Van Kure. Long afterwards I learned that both had +been killed by the Chinese along the road. + +We secured three camels and started out with a large group of +Chinese merchants and Russian refugees to make Uliassutai, +preserving the warmest recollections of our courteous hosts, T. V. +and D. A. Teternikoff. For the trip we had to pay for our camels +the very high price of 33 lan of the silver bullion which had been +supplied us by an American firm in Uliassutai, the equivalent +roughly of 2.7 pounds of the white metal. + + +CHAPTER XXIV + +A BLOODY CHASTISEMENT + + +Before long we struck the road which we had travelled coming north +and saw again the kindly rows of chopped down telegraph poles which +had once so warmly protected us. Over the timbered hillocks north +of the valley of Tisingol we wended just as it was growing dark. +We decided to stay in Bobroff's house and our companions thought to +seek the hospitality of Kanine in the telegraph station. At the +station gate we found a soldier with a rifle, who questioned us as +to who we were and whence we had come and, being apparently +satisfied, whistled out a young officer from the house. + +"Lieutenant Ivanoff," he introduced himself. "I am staying here +with my detachment of White Partisans." + +He had come from near Irkutsk with his following of ten men and had +formed a connection with Lieutenant-Colonel Michailoff at +Uliassutai, who commanded him to take possession of this +blockhouse. + +"Enter, please," he said hospitably. + +I explained to him that I wanted to stay with Bobroff, whereat he +made a despairing gesture with his hand and said: + +"Don't trouble yourself. The Bobroffs are killed and their house +burned." + +I could not keep back a cry of horror. + +The Lieutenant continued: "Kanine and the Pouzikoffs killed them, +pillaged the place and afterwards burned the house with their dead +bodies in it. Do you want to see it?" + +My friend and I went with the Lieutenant and looked over the +ominous site. Blackened uprights stood among charred beams and +planks while crockery and iron pots and pans were scattered all +around. A little to one side under some felt lay the remains of +the four unfortunate individuals. The Lieutenant first spoke: + +"I reported the case to Uliassutai and received word back that the +relatives of the deceased would come with two officers, who would +investigate the affair. That is why I cannot bury the bodies." + +"How did it happen?" we asked, oppressed by the sad picture. + +"It was like this," he began. "I was approaching Tisingol at night +with my ten soldiers. Fearing that there might be Reds here, we +sneaked up to the station and looked into the windows. We saw +Pouzikoff, Kanine and the short-haired girl, looking over and +dividing clothes and other things and weighing lumps of silver. I +did not at once grasp the significance of all this; but, feeling +the need for continued caution, ordered one of my soldiers to climb +the fence and open the gate. We rushed into the court. The first +to run from the house was Kanine's wife, who threw up her hands and +shrieked in fear: "I knew that misfortune would come of all this!" +and then fainted. One of the men ran out of a side door to a shed +in the yard and there tried to get over the fence. I had not +noticed him but one of my soldiers caught him. We were met at the +door by Kanine, who was white and trembling. I realized that +something important had taken place, placed them all under arrest, +ordered the men tied and placed a close guard. All my questions +were met with silence save by Madame Kanine who cried: 'Pity, pity +for the children! They are innocent!' as she dropped on her knees +and stretched out her hands in supplication to us. The short- +haired girl laughed out of impudent eyes and blew a puff of smoke +into my face. I was forced to threaten them and said: + +"'I know that you have committed some crime, but you do not want to +confess. If you do not, I shall shoot the men and take the women +to Uliassutai to try them there.' + +"I spoke with definiteness of voice and intention, for they roused +my deepest anger. Quite to my surprise the short-haired girl first +began to speak. + +"'I want to tell you about everything,' she said. + +"I ordered ink, paper and pen brought me. My soldiers were the +witnesses. Then I prepared the protocol of the confession of +Pouzikoff's wife. This was her dark and bloody tale. + +"'My husband and I are Bolshevik commissars and we have been sent +to find out how many White officers are hidden in Mongolia. But +the old fellow Bobroff knew us. We wanted to go away but Kanine +kept us, telling us that Bobroff was rich and that he had for a +long time wanted to kill him and pillage his place. We agreed to +join him. We decoyed the young Bobroff to come and play cards with +us. When he was going home my husband stole along behind and shot +him. Afterwards we all went to Bobroff's place. I climbed upon +the fence and threw some poisoned meat to the dogs, who were dead +in a few minutes. Then we all climbed over. The first person to +emerge from the house was Bobroff's wife. Pouzikoff, who was +hidden behind the door, killed her with his ax. The old fellow we +killed with a blow of the ax as he slept. The little girl ran out +into the room as she heard the noise and Kanine shot her in the +head with buckshot. Afterwards we looted the house and burned it, +even destroying the horses and cattle. Later all would have been +completely burned, so that no traces remained, but you suddenly +arrived and these stupid fellows at once betrayed us.' + +"It was a dastardly affair," continued the Lieutenant, as we +returned to the station. "The hair raised on my head as I listened +to the calm description of this young woman, hardly more than a +girl. Only then did I fully realize what depravity Bolshevism had +brought into the world, crushing out faith, fear of God and +conscience. Only then did I understand that all honest people must +fight without compromise against this most dangerous enemy of +mankind, so long as life and strength endure." + +As we walked I noticed at the side of the road a black spot. It +attracted and fixed my attention. + +"What is that?" I asked, pointing to the spot. + +"It is the murderer Pouzikoff whom I shot," answered the +Lieutenant. "I would have shot both Kanine and the wife of +Pouzikoff but I was sorry for Kanine's wife and children and I +haven't learned the lesson of shooting women. Now I shall send +them along with you under the surveillance of my soldiers to +Uliassutai. The same result will come, for the Mongols who try +them for the murder will surely kill them." + +This is what happened at Tisingol, on whose shores the will-o'-the- +wisp flits over the marshy pools and near which runs the cleavage +of over two hundred miles that the last earthquake left in the +surface of the land. Maybe it was out of this cleavage that +Pouzikoff, Kanine and the others who have sought to infect the +whole world with horror and crime made their appearance from the +land of the inferno. One of Lieutenant Ivanoff's soldiers, who was +always praying and pale, called them all "the servants of Satan." + +Our trip from Tisingol to Uliassutai in the company of these +criminals was very unpleasant. My friend and I entirely lost our +usual strength of spirit and healthy frame of mind. Kanine +persistently brooded and thought while the impudent woman laughed, +smoked and joked with the soldiers and several of our companions. +At last we crossed the Jagisstai and in a few hours descried at +first the fortress and then the low adobe houses huddled on the +plain, which we knew to be Uliassutai. + + +CHAPTER XXV + +HARASSING DAYS + + +Once more we found ourselves in the whirl of events. During our +fortnight away a great deal had happened here. The Chinese +Commissioner Wang Tsao-tsun had sent eleven envoys to Urga but none +had returned. The situation in Mongolia remained far from clear. +The Russian detachment had been increased by the arrival of new +colonists and secretly continued its illegal existence, although +the Chinese knew about it through their omnipresent system of +spies. In the town no Russian or foreign citizens left their +houses and all remained armed and ready to act. At night armed +sentinels stood guard in all their court-yards. It was the Chinese +who induced such precautions. By order of their Commissioner all +the Chinese merchants with stocks of rifles armed their staffs and +handed over any surplus guns to the officials, who with these +formed and equipped a force of two hundred coolies into a special +garrison of gamins. Then they took possession of the Mongolian +arsenal and distributed these additional guns among the Chinese +vegetable farmers in the nagan hushun, where there was always a +floating population of the lowest grade of transient Chinese +laborers. This trash of China now felt themselves strong, gathered +together in excited discussions and evidently were preparing for +some outburst of aggression. At night the coolies transported many +boxes of cartridges from the Chinese shops to the nagan hushun and +the behaviour of the Chinese mob became unbearably audacious. +These coolies and gamins impertinently stopped and searched people +right on the streets and sought to provoke fights that would allow +them to take anything they wanted. Through secret news we received +from certain Chinese quarters we learned that the Chinese were +preparing a pogrom for all the Russians and Mongols in Uliassutai. +We fully realized that it was only necessary to fire one single +house at the right part of the town and the entire settlement of +wooden buildings would go up in flames. The whole population +prepared to defend themselves, increased the sentinels in the +compounds, appointed leaders for certain sections of the town, +organized a special fire brigade and prepared horses, carts and +food for a hasty flight. The situation became worse when news +arrived from Kobdo that the Chinese there had made a pogrom, +killing some of the inhabitants and burning the whole town after a +wild looting orgy. Most of the people got away to the forests on +the mountains but it was at night and consequently without warm +clothes and without food. During the following days these +mountains around Kobdo heard many cries of misfortune, woe and +death. The severe cold and hunger killed off the women and +children out under the open sky of the Mongolian winter. This news +was soon known to the Chinese. They laughed in mockery and soon +organized a big meeting at the nagan hushun to discuss letting the +mob and gamins loose on the town. + +A young Chinese, the son of a cook of one of the colonists, +revealed this news. We immediately decided to make an +investigation. A Russian officer and my friend joined me with this +young Chinese as a guide for a trip to the outskirts of the town. +We feigned simply a stroll but were stopped by the Chinese sentinel +on the side of the city toward the nagan hushun with an impertinent +command that no one was allowed to leave the town. As we spoke +with him, I noticed that between the town and the nagan hushun +Chinese guards were stationed all along the way and that streams of +Chinese were moving in that direction. We saw at once it was +impossible to reach the meeting from this approach, so we chose +another route. We left the city from the eastern side and passed +along by the camp of the Mongolians who had been reduced to beggary +by the Chinese impositions. There also they were evidently +anxiously awaiting the turn of events, for, in spite of the +lateness of the hour, none had gone to sleep. We slipped out on +the ice and worked around by the river to the nagan hushun. As we +passed free of the city we began to sneak cautiously along, taking +advantage of every bit of cover. We were armed with revolvers and +hand grenades and knew that a small detachment had been prepared in +the town to come to our aid, if we should be in danger. First the +young Chinese stole forward with my friend following him like a +shadow, constantly reminding him that he would strangle him like a +mouse if he made one move to betray us. I fear the young guide did +not greatly enjoy the trip with my gigantic friend puffing all too +loudly with the unusual exertions. At last the fences of nagan +hushun were in sight and nothing between us and them save the open +plain, where our group would have been easily spotted; so that we +decided to crawl up one by one, save that the Chinese was retained +in the society of my trusted friend. Fortunately there were many +heaps of frozen manure on the plain, which we made use of as cover +to lead us right up to our objective point, the fence of the +enclosures. In the shadow of this we slunk along to the courtyard +where the voices of the excited crowd beckoned us. As we took good +vantage points in the darkness for listening and making +observations, we remarked two extraordinary things in our immediate +neighborhood. + +Another invisible guest was present with us at the Chinese +gathering. He lay on the ground with his head in a hole dug by the +dogs under the fence. He was perfectly still and evidently had not +heard our advance. Nearby in a ditch lay a white horse with his +nose muzzled and a little further away stood another saddled horse +tied to a fence. + +In the courtyard there was a great hubbub. About two thousand men +were shouting, arguing and flourishing their arms about in wild +gesticulations. Nearly all were armed with rifles, revolvers, +swords and axes. In among the crowd circulated the gamins, +constantly talking, handing out papers, explaining and assuring. +Finally a big, broad-shouldered Chinese mounted the well combing, +waved his rifle about over his head and opened a tirade in strong, +sharp tones. + +"He is assuring the people," said our interpreter, "that they must +do here what the Chinese have done in Kobdo and must secure from +the Commissioner the assurance of an order to his guard not to +prevent the carrying out of their plans. Also that the Chinese +Commissioner must demand from the Russians all their weapons. +'Then we shall take vengeance on the Russians for their +Blagoveschensk crime when they drowned three thousand Chinese in +1900. You remain here while I go to the Commissioner and talk with +him.'" + +He jumped down from the well and quickly made his way to the gate +toward the town. At once I saw the man who was lying with his head +under the fence draw back out of his hole, take his white horse +from the ditch and then run over to untie the other horse and lead +them both back to our side, which was away from the city. He left +the second horse there and hid himself around the corner of the +hushun. The spokesman went out of the gate and, seeing his horse +over on the other side of the enclosure, slung his rifle across his +back and started for his mount. He had gone about half way when +the stranger behind the corner of the fence suddenly galloped out +and in a flash literally swung the man clear from the ground up +across the pommel of his saddle, where we saw him tie the mouth of +the semi-strangled Chinese with a cloth and dash off with him +toward the west away from the town. + +"Who do you suppose he is?" I asked of my friend, who answered up +at once: "It must be Tushegoun Lama. . . ." + +His whole appearance did strongly remind me of this mysterious Lama +avenger and his manner of addressing himself to his enemy was a +strict replica of that of Tushegoun. Late in the night we learned +that some time after their orator had gone to seek the +Commissioner's cooperation in their venture, his head had been +flung over the fence into the midst of the waiting audience and +that eight gamins had disappeared on their way from the hushun to +the town without leaving trace or trail. This event terrorized the +Chinese mob and calmed their heated spirits. + +The next day we received very unexpected aid. A young Mongol +galloped in from Urga, his overcoat torn, his hair all dishevelled +and fallen to his shoulders and a revolver prominent beneath his +girdle. Proceeding directly to the market where the Mongols are +always gathered, without leaving his saddle he cried out: + +"Urga is captured by our Mongols and Chiang Chun Baron Ungern! +Bogdo Hutuktu is once more our Khan! Mongols, kill the Chinese and +pillage their shops! Our patience is exhausted!" + +Through the crowd rose the roar of excitement. The rider was +surrounded with a mob of insistent questioners. The old Mongol +Sait, Chultun Beyli, who had been dismissed by the Chinese, was at +once informed of this news and asked to have the messenger brought +to him. After questioning the man he arrested him for inciting the +people to riot, but he refused to turn him over to the Chinese +authorities. I was personally with the Sait at the time and heard +his decision in the matter. When the Chinese Commissioner, Wang +Tsao-tsun, threatened the Sait for disobedience to his authority, +the old man simply fingered his rosary and said: + +"I believe the story of this Mongol in its every word and I +apprehend that you and I shall soon have to reverse our +relationship." + +I felt that Wang Tsao-tsun also accepted the correctness of the +Mongol's story, because he did not insist further. From this +moment the Chinese disappeared from the streets of Uliassutai as +though they never had been, and synchronously the patrols of the +Russian officers and of our foreign colony took their places. The +panic among the Chinese was heightened by the receipt of a letter +containing the news that the Mongols and Altai Tartars under the +leadership of the Tartar officer Kaigorodoff pursued the Chinese +who were making off with their booty from the sack of Kobdo and +overtook and annihilated them on the borders of Sinkiang. Another +part of the letter told how General Bakitch and the six thousand +men who had been interned with him by the Chinese authorities on +the River Amyl had received arms and started to join with Ataman +Annenkoff, who had been interned in Kuldja, with the ultimate +intention of linking up with Baron Ungern. This rumour proved to +be wrong because neither Bakitch nor Annenkoff entertained this +intention, because Annenkoff had been transported by the Chinese +into the Depths of Turkestan. However, the news produced veritable +stupefaction among the Chinese. + +Just at this time there arrived at the house of the Bolshevist +Russian colonist Bourdukoff three Bolshevik agents from Irkutsk +named Saltikoff, Freimann and Novak, who started an agitation among +the Chinese authorities to get them to disarm the Russian officers +and hand them over to the Reds. They persuaded the Chinese Chamber +of Commerce to petition the Irkutsk Soviet to send a detachment of +Reds to Uliassutai for the protection of the Chinese against the +White detachments. Freimann brought with him communistic pamphlets +in Mongolian and instructions to begin the reconstruction of the +telegraph line to Irkutsk. Bourdukoff also received some messages +from the Bolsheviki. This quartette developed their policy very +successfully and soon saw Wang Tsao-tsun fall in with their +schemes. Once more the days of expecting a pogrom in Uliassutai +returned to us. The Russian officers anticipated attempts to +arrest them. The representative of one of the American firms went +with me to the Commissioner for a parley. We pointed out to him +the illegality of his acts, inasmuch as he was not authorized by +his Government to treat with the Bolsheviki when the Soviet +Government had not been recognized by Peking. Wang Tsao-tsun and +his advisor Fu Hsiang were palpably confused at finding we knew of +his secret meetings with the Bolshevik agents. He assured us that +his guard was sufficient to prevent any such pogrom. It was quite +true that his guard was very capable, as it consisted of well +trained and disciplined soldiers under the command of a serious- +minded and well educated officer; but, what could eighty soldiers +do against a mob of three thousand coolies, one thousand armed +merchants and two hundred gamins? We strongly registered our +apprehensions and urged him to avoid any bloodshed, pointing out +that the foreign and Russian population were determined to defend +themselves to the last moment. Wang at once ordered the +establishment of strong guards on the streets and thus made a very +interesting picture with all the Russian, foreign and Chinese +patrols moving up and down throughout the whole town. Then we did +not know there were three hundred more sentinels on duty, the men +of Tushegoun Lama hidden nearby in the mountains. + +Once more the picture changed very sharply and suddenly. The +Mongolian Sait received news through the Lamas of the nearest +monastery that Colonel Kazagrandi, after fighting with the Chinese +irregulars, had captured Van Kure and had formed there Russian- +Mongolian brigades of cavalry, mobilizing the Mongols by the order +of the Living Buddha and the Russians by order of Baron Ungern. A +few hours later it became known that in the large monastery of +Dzain the Chinese soldiers had killed the Russian Captain Barsky +and as a result some of the troops of Kazagrandi attacked and swept +the Chinese out of the place. At the taking of Van Kure the +Russians arrested a Korean Communist who was on his way from Moscow +with gold and propaganda to work in Korea and America. Colonel +Kazagrandi sent this Korean with his freight of gold to Baron +Ungern. After receiving this news the chief of the Russian +detachment in Uliassutai arrested all the Bolsheviki agents and +passed judgment upon them and upon the murderers of the Bobroffs. +Kanine, Madame Pouzikoff and Freimann were shot. Regarding +Saltikoff and Novak some doubt sprang up and, moreover, Saltikoff +escaped and hid, while Novak, under advice from Lieutenant Colonel +Michailoff, left for the west. The chief of the Russian detachment +gave out orders for the mobilization of the Russian colonists and +openly took Uliassutai under his protection with the tacit +agreement of the Mongolian authorities. The Mongol Sait, Chultun +Beyli, convened a council of the neighboring Mongolian Princes, the +soul of which was the noted Mongolian patriot, Hun Jap Lama. The +Princes quickly formulated their demands upon the Chinese for the +complete evacuation of the territory subject to the Sait Chultun +Beyli. Out of it grew parleys, threats and friction between the +various Chinese and Mongolian elements. Wang Tsao-tsun proposed +his scheme of settlement, which some of the Mongolian Princes +accepted; but Jap Lama at the decisive moment threw the Chinese +document to the ground, drew his knife and swore that he would die +by his own hand rather than set it as a seal upon this treacherous +agreement. As a result the Chinese proposals were rejected and the +antagonists began to prepare themselves for the struggle. All the +armed Mongols were summoned from Jassaktu Khan, Sain-Noion Khan and +the dominion of Jahantsi Lama. The Chinese authorities placed +their four machine guns and prepared to defend the fortress. +Continuous deliberations were held by both the Chinese and Mongols. +Finally, our old acquaintance Tzeren came to me as one of the +unconcerned foreigners and handed to me the joint requests of Wang +Tsao-tsun and Chultun Beyli to try to pacify the two elements and +to work out a fair agreement between them. Similar requests were +handed to the representative of an American firm. The following +evening we held the first meeting of the arbitrators and the +Chinese and Mongolian representatives. It was passionate and +stormy, so that we foreigners lost all hope of the success of our +mission. However, at midnight when the speakers were tired, we +secured agreement on two points: the Mongols announced that they +did not want to make war and that they desired to settle this +matter in such a way as to retain the friendship of the great +Chinese people; while the Chinese Commissioner acknowledged that +China had violated the treaties by which full independence had been +legally granted to Mongolia. + +These two points formed for us the groundwork of the next meeting +and gave us the starting points for urging reconciliation. The +deliberations continued for three days and finally turned so that +we foreigners could propose our suggestions for an agreement. Its +chief provisions were that the Chinese authorities should surrender +administrative powers, return the arms to the Mongolians, disarm +the two hundred gamins and leave the country; and that the Mongols +on their side should give free and honorable passage of their +country to the Commissioner with his armed guard of eighty men. +This Chinese-Mongolian Treaty of Uliassutai was signed and sealed +by the Chinese Commissioners, Wang Tsao-tsun and Fu Hsiang, by both +Mongolian Saits, by Hun Jap Lama and other Princes, as well as by +the Russian and Chinese Presidents of the Chambers of Commerce and +by us foreign arbitrators. The Chinese officials and convoy began +at once to pack up their belongings and prepare for departure. The +Chinese merchants remained in Uliassutai because Sait Chultun +Beyli, now having full authority and power, guaranteed their +safety. The day of departure for the expedition of Wang Tsao-tsun +arrived. The camels with their packs already filled the yamen +court-yard and the men only awaited the arrival of their horses +from the plains. Suddenly the news spread everywhere that the herd +of horses had been stolen during the night and run off toward the +south. Of two soldiers that had been sent out to follow the tracks +of the herd only one came back with the news that the other had +been killed. Astonishment spread over the whole town while among +the Chinese it turned to open panic. It perceptibly increased when +some Mongols from a distant ourton to the east came in and +announced that in various places along the post road to Urga they +had discovered the bodies of sixteen of the soldiers whom Wang +Tsao-tsun had sent out with letters for Urga. The mystery of these +events will soon be explained. + +The chief of the Russian detachment received a letter from a +Cossack Colonel, V. N. Domojiroff, containing the order to disarm +immediately the Chinese garrison, to arrest all Chinese officials +for transport to Baron Ungern at Urga, to take control of +Uliassutai, by force if necessary, and to join forces with his +detachment. At the very same time a messenger from the Narabanchi +Hutuktu galloped in with a letter to the effect that a Russian +detachment under the leadership of Hun Boldon and Colonel +Domojiroff from Urga had pillaged some Chinese firms and killed the +merchants, had come to the Monastery and demanded horses, food and +shelter. The Hutuktu asked for help because the ferocious +conqueror of Kobdo, Hun Boldon, could very easily pillage the +unprotected isolated monastery. We strongly urged Colonel +Michailoff not to violate the sealed treaty and discountenance all +the foreigners and Russians who had taken part in making it, for +this would but be to imitate the Bolshevik principle of making +deceit the leading rule in all acts of state. This touched +Michailoff and he answered Domojiroff that Uliassutai was already +in his hands without a fight; that over the building of the former +Russian Consulate the tri-color flag of Russia was flying; the +gamins had been disarmed but that the other orders could not be +carried out, because their execution would violate the Chinese- +Mongolian treaty just signed in Uliassutai. + +Daily several envoys traveled from Narabanchi Hutuktu to +Uliassutai. The news became more and more disquieting. The +Hutuktu reported that Hun Boldon was mobilizing the Mongolian +beggars and horse stealers, arming and training them; that the +soldiers were taking the sheep of the monastery; that the "Noyon" +Domojiroff was always drunk; and that the protests of the Hutuktu +were answered with jeers and scolding. The messengers gave very +indefinite information regarding the strength of the detachment, +some placing it at about thirty while others stated that Domojiroff +said he had eight hundred in all. We could not understand it at +all and soon the messengers ceased coming. All the letters of the +Sait remained unanswered and the envoys did not return. There +seemed to be no doubt that the men had been killed or captured. + +Prince Chultun Beyli determined to go himself. He took with him +the Russian and Chinese Presidents of the Chambers of Commerce and +two Mongolian officers. Three days elapsed without receiving any +news from him whatever. The Mongols began to get worried. Then +the Chinese Commissioner and Hun Jap Lama addressed a request to +the foreigner group to send some one to Narabanchi, in order to try +to resolve the controversy there and to persuade Domojiroff to +recognize the treaty and not permit the "great insult of violation" +of a covenant between the two great peoples. Our group asked me +once more to accomplish this mission pro bono publico. I had +assigned me as interpreter a fine young Russian colonist, the +nephew of the murdered Bobroff, a splendid rider as well as a cool, +brave man. Lt.-Colonel Michailoff gave me one of his officers to +accompany me. Supplied with an express tzara for the post horses +and guides, we traveled rapidly over the way which was now familiar +to me to find my old friend, Jelib Djamsrap Huktuktu of Narabanchi. +Although there was deep snow in some places, we made from one +hundred to one hundred and fifteen miles per day. + + +CHAPTER XXVI + +THE BAND OF WHITE HUNGHUTZES + + +We arrived at Narabanchi late at night on the third day out. As we +were approaching, we noticed several riders who, as soon as they +had seen us, galloped quickly back to the monastery. For some time +we looked for the camp of the Russian detachment without finding +it. The Mongols led us into the monastery, where the Hutuktu +immediately received me. In his yurta sat Chultun Beyli. There he +presented me with hatyks and said to me: "The very God has sent +you here to us in this difficult moment." + +It seems Domojiroff had arrested both the Presidents of the +Chambers of Commerce and had threatened to shoot Prince Chultun. +Both Domojiroff and Hun Boldon had no documents legalizing their +activities. Chultun Beyli was preparing to fight with them. + +I asked them to take me to Domojiroff. Through the dark I saw four +big yurtas and two Mongol sentinels with Russian rifles. We +entered the Russian "Noyon's" tent. A very strange picture was +presented to our eyes. In the middle of the yurta the brazier was +burning. In the usual place for the altar stood a throne, on which +the tall, thin, grey-haired Colonel Domojiroff was seated. He was +only in his undergarments and stockings, was evidently a little +drunk and was telling stories. Around the brazier lay twelve young +men in various picturesque poses. My officer companion reported to +Domojiroff about the events in Uliassutai and during the +conversation I asked Domojiroff where his detachment was encamped. +He laughed and answered, with a sweep of his hand: "This is my +detachment." I pointed out to him that the form of his orders to +us in Uliassutai had led us to believe that he must have a large +company with him. Then I informed him that Lt.-Colonel Michailoff +was preparing to cross swords with the Bolshevik force approaching +Uliassutai. + +"What?" he exclaimed with fear and confusion, "the Reds?" + +We spent the night in his yurta and, when I was ready to lie down, +my officer whispered to me: + +"Be sure to keep your revolver handy," to which I laughed and said: + +"But we are in the center of a White detachment and therefore in +perfect safety!" + +"Uh-huh!" answered my officer and finished the response with one +eye closed. + +The next day I invited Domojiroff to walk with me over the plain, +when I talked very frankly with him about what had been happening. +He and Hun Boldon had received orders from Baron Ungern simply to +get into touch with General Bakitch, but instead they began +pillaging Chinese firms along the route and he had made up his mind +to become a great conqueror. On the way he had run across some of +the officers who deserted Colonel Kazagrandi and formed his present +band. I succeeded in persuading Domojiroff to arrange matters +peacefully with Chultun Beyli and not to violate the treaty. He +immediately went ahead to the monastery. As I returned, I met a +tall Mongol with a ferocious face, dressed in a blue silk +outercoat--it was Hun Boldon. He introduced himself and spoke with +me in Russian. I had only time to take off my coat in the tent of +Domojiroff when a Mongol came running to invite me to the yurta of +Hun Boldon. The Prince lived just beside me in a splendid blue +yurta. Knowing the Mongolian custom, I jumped into the saddle and +rode the ten paces to his door. Hun Boldon received me with +coldness and pride. + +"Who is he?" he inquired of the interpreter, pointing to me with +his finger. + +I understood his desire to offend me and I answered in the same +manner, thrusting out my finger toward him and turning to the +interpreter with the same question in a slightly more unpleasant +tone: + +"Who is he? High Prince and warrior or shepherd and brute?" + +Boldon at once became confused and, with trembling voice and +agitation in his whole manner, blurted out to me that he would not +allow me to interfere in his affairs and would shoot every man who +dared to run counter to his orders. He pounded on the low table +with his fist and then rose up and drew his revolver. But I was +much traveled among the nomads and had studied them thoroughly-- +Princes, Lamas, shepherds and brigands. I grasped my whip and, +striking it on the table with all my strength, I said to the +interpreter: + +"Tell him that he has the honor to speak with neither Mongol nor +Russian but with a foreigner, a citizen of a great and free state. +Tell him he must first learn to be a man and then he can visit me +and we can talk together." + +I turned and went out. Ten minutes later Hun Boldon entered my +yurta and offered his apologies. I persuaded him to parley with +Chultun Beyli and not to offend the free Mongol people with his +activities. That very night all was arranged. Hun Boldon +dismissed his Mongols and left for Kobdo, while Domojiroff with his +band started for Jassaktu Khan to arrange for the mobilization of +the Mongols there. With the consent of Chultun Beyli he wrote to +Wang Tsao-tsun a demand to disarm his guard, as all of the Chinese +troops in Urga had been so treated; but this letter arrived after +Wang had bought camels to replace the stolen horses and was on his +way to the border. Later Lt.-Colonel Michailoff sent a detachment +of fifty men under the command of Lieutenant Strigine to overhaul +Wang and receive their arms. + + +CHAPTER XXVII + +MYSTERY IN A SMALL TEMPLE + + +Prince Chultun Beyli and I were ready to leave the Narabanchi Kure. +While the Hutuktu was holding service for the Sait in the Temple of +Blessing, I wandered around through the narrow alleyways between +the walls of the houses of the various grades of Lama Gelongs, +Getuls, Chaidje and Rabdjampa; of schools where the learned doctors +of theology or Maramba taught together with the doctors of medicine +or Ta Lama; of the residences for students called Bandi; of stores, +archives and libraries. When I returned to the yurta of the +Hutuktu, he was inside. He presented me with a large hatyk and +proposed a walk around the monastery. His face wore a preoccupied +expression from which I gathered that he had something he wished to +discuss with me. As we went out of the yurta, the liberated +President of the Russian Chamber of Commerce and a Russian officer +joined us. The Hutuktu led us to a small building just back of a +bright yellow stone wall. + +"In that building once stopped the Dalai Lama and Bogdo Khan and we +always paint the buildings yellow where these holy persons have +lived. Enter!" + +The interior of the building was arranged with splendor. On the +ground floor was the dining-room, furnished with richly carved, +heavy blackwood Chinese tables and cabinets filled with porcelains +and bronze. Above were two rooms, the first a bed-room hung with +heavy yellow silk curtains; a large Chinese lantern richly set with +colored stones hung by a thin bronze chain from the carved wooden +ceiling beam. Here stood a large square bed covered with silken +pillows, mattresses and blankets. The frame work of the bed was +also of the Chinese blackwood and carried, especially on the posts +that held the roof-like canopy, finely executed carvings with the +chief motive the conventional dragon devouring the sun. By the +side stood a chest of drawers completely covered with carvings +setting forth religious pictures. Four comfortable easy chairs +completed the furniture, save for the low oriental throne which +stood on a dais at the end of the room. + +"Do you see this throne?" said the Hutuktu to me. "One night in +winter several horsemen rode into the monastery and demanded that +all the Gelongs and Getuls with the Hutuktu and Kanpo at their head +should congregate in this room. Then one of the strangers mounted +the throne, where he took off his bashlyk or cap-like head +covering. All of the Lamas fell to their knees as they recognized +the man who had been long ago described in the sacred bulls of +Dalai Lama, Tashi Lama and Bogdo Khan. He was the man to whom the +whole world belongs and who has penetrated into all the mysteries +of Nature. He pronounced a short Tibetan prayer, blessed all his +hearers and afterwards made predictions for the coming half +century. This was thirty years ago and in the interim all his +prophecies are being fulfilled. During his prayers before that +small shrine in the next room this door opened of its own accord, +the candles and lights before the altar lighted themselves and the +sacred braziers without coals gave forth great streams of incense +that filled the room. And then, without warning, the King of the +World and his companions disappeared from among us. Behind him +remained no trace save the folds in the silken throne coverings +which smoothed themselves out and left the throne as though no one +had sat upon it." + +The Hutuktu entered the shrine, kneeled down, covering his eyes +with his hands, and began to pray. I looked at the calm, +indifferent face of the golden Buddha, over which the flickering +lamps threw changing shadows, and then turned my eyes to the side +of the throne. It was wonderful and difficult to believe but I +really saw there the strong, muscular figure of a man with a +swarthy face of stern and fixed expression about the mouth and +jaws, thrown into high relief by the brightness of the eyes. +Through his transparent body draped in white raiment I saw the +Tibetan inscriptions on the back of the throne. I closed my eyes +and opened them again. No one was there but the silk throne +covering seemed to be moving. + +"Nervousness," I thought. "Abnormal and over-emphasized +impressionability growing out of the unusual surroundings and +strains." + +The Hutuktu turned to me and said: "Give me your hatyk. I have +the feeling that you are troubled about those whom you love, and I +want to pray for them. And you must pray also, importune God and +direct the sight of your soul to the King of the World who was here +and sanctified this place." + +The Hutuktu placed the hatyk on the shoulder of the Buddha and, +prostrating himself on the carpet before the altar, whispered the +words of prayer. Then he raised his head and beckoned me to him +with a slight movement of his hand. + +"Look at the dark space behind the statue of Buddha and he will +show your beloved to you." + +Readily obeying his deep-voiced command, I began to look into the +dark niche behind the figure of the Buddha. Soon out of the +darkness began to appear streams of smoke or transparent threads. +They floated in the air, becoming more and more dense and +increasing in number, until gradually they formed the bodies of +several persons and the outlines of various objects. I saw a room +that was strange to me with my family there, surrounded by some +whom I knew and others whom I did not. I recognized even the dress +my wife wore. Every line of her dear face was clearly visible. +Gradually the vision became too dark, dissipated itself into the +streams of smoke and transparent threads and disappeared. Behind +the golden Buddha was nothing but the darkness. The Hutuktu arose, +took my hatyk from the shoulder of the Buddha and handed it to me +with these words: + +"Fortune is always with you and with your family. God's goodness +will not forsake you." + +We left the building of this unknown King of the World, where he +had prayed for all mankind and had predicted the fate of peoples +and states. I was greatly astonished to find that my companions +had also seen my vision and to hear them describe to me in minute +detail the appearance and the clothes of the persons whom I had +seen in the dark niche behind the head of Buddha.* + + +* In order that I might have the evidence of others on this +extraordinarily impressive vision, I asked them to make protocols +or affidavits concerning what they saw. This they did and I now +have these statements in my possession. + + +The Mongol officer also told me that Chultun Beyli had the day +before asked the Hutuktu to reveal to him his fate in this +important juncture of his life and in this crisis of his country +but the Hutuktu only waved his hand in an expression of fear and +refused. When I asked the Hutuktu for the reason of his refusal, +suggesting to him that it might calm and help Chultun Beyli as the +vision of my beloved had strengthened me, the Hutuktu knitted his +brow and answered: + +"No! The vision would not please the Prince. His fate is black. +Yesterday I thrice sought his fortune on the burned shoulder blades +and with the entrails of sheep and each time came to the same dire +result, the same dire result! . . ." + +He did not really finish speaking but covered his face with his +hands in fear. He was convinced that the lot of Chultun Beyli was +black as the night. + +In an hour we were behind the low hills that hid the Narabanchi +Kure from our sight. + + +CHAPTER XXVIII + +THE BREATH OF DEATH + + +We arrived at Uliassutai on the day of the return of the detachment +which had gone out to disarm the convoy of Wang Tsao-tsun. This +detachment had met Colonel Domojiroff, who ordered them not only to +disarm but to pillage the convoy and, unfortunately, Lieutenant +Strigine executed this illegal and unwarranted command. It was +compromising and ignominious to see Russian officers and soldiers +wearing the Chinese overcoats, boots and wrist watches which had +been taken from the Chinese officials and the convoy. Everyone had +Chinese silver and gold also from the loot. The Mongol wife of +Wang Tsao-tsun and her brother returned with the detachment and +entered a complaint of having been robbed by the Russians. The +Chinese officials and their convoy, deprived of their supplies, +reached the Chinese border only after great distress from hunger +and cold. We foreigners were astounded that Lt.-Colonel Michailoff +received Strigine with military honors but we caught the +explanation of it later when we learned that Michailoff had been +given some of the Chinese silver and his wife the handsomely +decorated saddle of Fu Hsiang. Chultun Beyli demanded that all the +weapons taken from the Chinese and all the stolen property be +turned over to him, as it must later be returned to the Chinese +authorities; but Michailoff refused. Afterwards we foreigners cut +off all contact with the Russian detachment. The relations between +the Russians and Mongols became very strained. Several of the +Russian officers protested against the acts of Michailoff and +Strigine and controversies became more and more serious. + +At this time, one morning in April, an extraordinary group of armed +horsemen arrived at Uliassutai. They stayed at the house of the +Bolshevik Bourdukoff, who gave them, so we were told, a great +quantity of silver. This group explained that they were former +officers in the Imperial Guard. They were Colonels Poletika, N. N. +Philipoff and three of the latter's brothers. They announced that +they wanted to collect all the White officers and soldiers then in +Mongolia and China and lead them to Urianhai to fight the +Bolsheviki; but that first they wanted to wipe out Ungern and +return Mongolia to China. They called themselves the +representatives of the Central Organization of the Whites in +Russia. + +The society of Russian officers in Uliassutai invited them to a +meeting, examined their documents and interrogated them. +Investigation proved that all the statements of these officers +about their former connections were entirely wrong, that Poletika +occupied an important position in the war commissariat of the +Bolsheviki, that one of the Philipoff brothers was the assistant of +Kameneff in his first attempt to reach England, that the Central +White Organization in Russia did not exist, that the proposed +fighting in Urianhai was but a trap for the White officers and that +this group was in close relations with the Bolshevik Bourdukoff. + +A discussion at once sprang up among the officers as to what they +should do with this group, which split the detachment into two +distinct parties. Lt.-Colonel Michailoff with several officers +joined themselves to Poletika's group just as Colonel Domojiroff +arrived with his detachment. He began to get in touch with both +factions and to feel out the politics of the situation, finally +appointing Poletika to the post of Commandant of Uliassutai and +sending to Baron Ungern a full report of the events in the town. +In this document he devoted much space to me, accusing me of +standing in the way of the execution of his orders. His officers +watched me continuously. From different quarters I received +warnings to take great care. This band and its leader openly +demanded to know what right this foreigner had to interfere in the +affairs of Mongolia, one of Domojiroff's officers directly giving +me the challenge in a meeting in the attempt to provoke a +controversy. I quietly answered him: + +"And on what basis do the Russian refugees interfere, they who have +rights neither at home nor abroad?" + +The officer made no verbal reply but in his eyes burned a definite +answer. My huge friend who sat beside me noticed this, strode over +toward him and, towering over him, stretched his arms and hands as +though just waking from sleep and remarked: "I'm looking for a +little boxing exercise." + +On one occasion Domojiroff's men would have succeeded in taking me +if I had not been saved by the watchfulness of our foreign group. +I had gone to the fortress to negotiate with the Mongol Sait for +the departure of the foreigners from Uliassutai. Chultun Beyli +detained me for a long time, so that I was forced to return about +nine in the evening. My horse was walking. Half a mile from the +town three men sprang up out of the ditch and ran at me. I whipped +up my horse but noticed several more men coming out of the other +ditch as though to head me off. They, however, made for the other +group and captured them and I heard the voice of a foreigner +calling me back. There I found three of Domojiroff's officers +surrounded by the Polish soldiers and other foreigners under the +leadership of my old trusted agronome, who was occupied with tying +the hands of the officers behind their backs so strongly that the +bones cracked. Ending his work and still smoking his perpetual +pipe, he announced in a serious and important manner: "I think it +best to throw them into the river." + +Laughing at his seriousness and the fear of Domojiroff's officers, +I asked them why they had started to attack me. They dropped their +eyes and were silent. It was an eloquent silence and we perfectly +understood what they had proposed to do. They had revolvers hidden +in their pockets. + +"Fine!" I said. "All is perfectly clear. I shall release you but +you must report to your sender that he will not welcome you back +the next time. Your weapons I shall hand to the Commandant of +Uliassutai." + +My friend, using his former terrifying care, began to untie them, +repeating over and over: "And I would have fed you to the fishes +in the river!" Then we all returned to the town, leaving them to +go their way. + +Domojiroff continued to send envoys to Baron Ungern at Urga with +requests for plenary powers and money and with reports about +Michailoff, Chultun Beyli, Poletika, Philipoff and myself. With +Asiatic cunning he was then maintaining good relations with all +those for whom he was preparing death at the hands of the severe +warrior, Baron Ungern, who was receiving only one-sided reports +about all the happenings in Uliassutai. Our whole colony was +greatly agitated. The officers split into different parties; the +soldiers collected in groups and discussed the events of the day, +criticising their chiefs, and under the influence of some of +Domojiroff's men began making such statements as: + +"We have now seven Colonels, who all want to be in command and are +all quarreling among themselves. They all ought to be pegged down +and given good sound thrashings. The one who could take the +greatest number of blows ought to be chosen as our chief." + +It was an ominous joke that proved the demoralization of the +Russian detachment. + +"It seems," my friend frequently observed, "that we shall soon have +the pleasure of seeing a Council of Soldiers here in Uliassutai. +God and the Devil! One thing here is very unfortunate--there are +no forests near into which good Christian men may dive and get away +from all these cursed Soviets. It's bare, frightfully bare, this +wretched Mongolia, with no place for us to hide." + +Really this possibility of the Soviet was approaching. On one +occasion the soldiers captured the arsenal containing the weapons +surrendered by the Chinese and carried them off to their barracks. +Drunkenness, gambling and fighting increased. We foreigners, +carefully watching events and in fear of a catastrophe, finally +decided to leave Uliassutai, that caldron of passions, +controversies and denunciations. We heard that the group of +Poletika was also preparing to get out a few days later. We +foreigners separated into two parties, one traveling by the old +caravan route across the Gobi considerably to the south of Urga to +Kuku-Hoto or Kweihuacheng and Kalgan, and mine, consisting of my +friend, two Polish soldiers and myself, heading for Urga via Zain +Shabi, where Colonel Kazagrandi had asked me in a recent letter to +meet him. Thus we left the Uliassutai where we had lived through +so many exciting events. + +On the sixth day after our departure there arrived in the town the +Mongol-Buriat detachment under the command of the Buriat Vandaloff +and the Russian Captain Bezrodnoff. Afterwards I met them in Zain +Shabi. It was a detachment sent out from Urga by Baron Ungern to +restore order in Uliassutai and to march on to Kobdo. On the way +from Zain Shabi Bezrodnoff came across the group of Poletika and +Michailoff. He instituted a search which disclosed suspicious +documents in their baggage and in that of Michailoff and his wife +the silver and other possessions taken from the Chinese. From this +group of sixteen he sent N. N. Philipoff to Baron Ungern, released +three others and shot the remaining twelve. Thus ended in Zain +Shabi the life of one party of Uliassutai refugees and the +activities of the group of Poletika. In Uliassutai Bezrodnoff shot +Chultun Beyli for the violation of the treaty with the Chinese, and +also some Bolshevist Russian colonists; arrested Domojiroff and +sent him to Urga; and . . . restored order. The predictions about +Chultun Beyli were fulfilled. + +I knew of Domojiroff's reports regarding myself but I decided, +nevertheless, to proceed to Urga and not to swing round it, as +Poletika had started to do when he was accidentally captured by +Bezrodnoff. I was accustomed now to looking into the eyes of +danger and I set out to meet the terrible "bloody Baron." No one +can decide his own fate. I did not think myself in the wrong and +the feeling of fear had long since ceased to occupy a place in my +menage. On the way a Mongol rider who overhauled us brought the +news of the death of our acquaintances at Zain Shabi. He spent the +night with me in the yurta at the ourton and related to me the +following legend of death. + +"It was a long time ago when the Mongolians ruled over China. The +Prince of Uliassutai, Beltis Van, was mad. He executed any one he +wished without trial and no one dared to pass through his town. +All the other Princes and rich Mongols surrounded Uliassutai, where +Beltis raged, cut off communication on every road and allowed none +to pass in or out. Famine developed in the town. They consumed +all the oxen, sheep and horses and finally Beltis Van determined to +make a dash with his soldiers through to the west to the land of +one of his tribes, the Olets. He and his men all perished in the +fight. The Princes, following the advice of the Hutuktu Buyantu, +buried the dead on the slopes of the mountains surrounding +Uliassutai. They buried them with incantations and exorcisings in +order that Death by Violence might be kept from a further +visitation to their land. The tombs were covered with heavy stones +and the Hutuktu predicted that the bad demon of Death by Violence +would only leave the earth when the blood of a man should he +spilled upon the covering stone. Such a legend lived among us. +Now it is fulfilled. The Russians shot there three Bolsheviki and +the Chinese two Mongols. The evil spirit of Beltis Van broke loose +from beneath the heavy stone and now mows down the people with his +scythe. The noble Chultun Beyli has perished; the Russian Noyon +Michailoff also has fallen; and death has flowed out from +Uliassutai all over our boundless plains. Who shall be able to +stem it now? Who shall tie the ferocious hands? An evil time has +fallen upon the Gods and the Good Spirits. The Evil Demons have +made war upon the Good Spirits. What can man now do? Only perish, +only perish. . . ." + + + +Part III + +THE STRAINING HEART OF ASIA + + +CHAPTER XXIX + +ON THE ROAD OF GREAT CONQUERORS + + +The great conqueror, Jenghiz Khan, the son of sad, stern, severe +Mongolia, according to an old Mongolian legend "mounted to the top +of Karasu Togol and with his eyes of an eagle looked to the west +and the east. In the west he saw whole seas of human blood over +which floated a bloody fog that blanketed all the horizon. There +he could not discern his fate. But the gods ordered him to proceed +to the west, leading with him all his warriors and Mongolian +tribes. To the east he saw wealthy towns, shining temples, crowds +of happy people, gardens and fields of rich earth, all of which +pleased the great Mongol. He said to his sons: 'There in the west +I shall be fire and sword, destroyer, avenging Fate; in the east I +shall come as the merciful, great builder, bringing happiness to +the people and to the land.'" + +Thus runs the legend. I found much of truth in it. I had passed +over much of his road to the west and always identified it by the +old tombs and the impertinent monuments of stone to the merciless +conqueror. I saw also a part of the eastern road of the hero, over +which he traveled to China. Once when we were making a trip out of +Uliassutai we stopped the night in Djirgalantu. The old host of +the ourton, knowing me from my previous trip to Narabanchi, +welcomed us very kindly and regaled us with stories during our +evening meal. Among other things he led us out of the yurta and +pointed out a mountain peak brightly lighted by the full moon and +recounted to us the story of one of the sons of Jenghiz, afterwards +Emperor of China, Indo-China and Mongolia, who had been attracted +by the beautiful scenery and grazing lands of Djirgalantu and had +founded here a town. This was soon left without inhabitants, for +the Mongol is a nomad who cannot live in artificial cities. The +plain is his house and the world his town. For a time this town +witnessed battles between the Chinese and the troops of Jenghiz +Khan but afterwards it was forgotten. At present there remains +only a half-ruined tower, from which in the early days the heavy +rocks were hurled down upon the heads of the enemy, and the +dilapidated gate of Kublai, the grandson of Jenghiz Khan. Against +the greenish sky drenched with the rays of the moon stood out the +jagged line of the mountains and the black silhouette of the tower +with its loopholes, through which the alternate scudding clouds and +light flashed. + +When our party left Uliassutai, we traveled on leisurely, making +thirty-five to fifty miles a day until we were within sixty miles +of Zain Shabi, where I took leave of the others to go south to this +place in order to keep my engagement with Colonel Kazagrandi. The +sun had just risen as my single Mongol guide and I without any pack +animals began to ascend the low, timbered ridges, from the top of +which I caught the last glimpses of my companions disappearing down +the valley. I had no idea then of the many and almost fatal +dangers which I should have to pass through during this trip by +myself, which was destined to prove much longer than I had +anticipated. As we were crossing a small river with sandy shores, +my Mongol guide told me how the Mongolians came there during the +summer to wash gold, in spite of the prohibitions of the Lamas. +The manner of working the placer was very primitive but the results +testified clearly to the richness of these sands. The Mongol lies +flat on the ground, brushes the sand aside with a feather and keeps +blowing into the little excavation so formed. From time to time he +wets his finger and picks up on it a small bit of grain gold or a +diminutive nugget and drops these into a little bag hanging under +his chin. In such manner this primitive dredge wins about a +quarter of an ounce or five dollars' worth of the yellow metal per +day. + +I determined to make the whole distance to Zain Shabi in a single +day. At the ourtons I hurried them through the catching and +saddling of the horses as fast as I could. At one of these +stations about twenty-five miles from the monastery the Mongols +gave me a wild horse, a big, strong white stallion. Just as I was +about to mount him and had already touched my foot to the stirrup, +he jumped and kicked me right on the leg which had been wounded in +the Ma-chu fight. The leg soon began to swell and ache. At sunset +I made out the first Russian and Chinese buildings and later the +monastery at Zain. We dropped into the valley of a small stream +which flowed along a mountain on whose peak were set white rocks +forming the words of a Tibetan prayer. At the bottom of this +mountain was a cemetery for the Lamas, that is, piles of bones and +a pack of dogs. At last the monastery lay right below us, a common +square surrounded with wooden fences. In the middle rose a large +temple quite different from all those of western Mongolia, not in +the Chinese but in the Tibetan style of architecture, a white +building with perpendicular walls and regular rows of windows in +black frames, with a roof of black tiles and with a most unusual +damp course laid between the stone walls and the roof timbers and +made of bundles of twigs from a Tibetan tree which never rots. +Another small quadrangle lay a little to the east and contained +Russian buildings connected with the monastery by telephone. + +"That is the house of the Living God of Zain," the Mongol +explained, pointing to this smaller quadrangle. "He likes Russian +customs and manners." + +To the north on a conical-shaped hill rose a tower that recalled +the Babylonian zikkurat. It was the temple where the ancient books +and manuscripts were kept and the broken ornaments and objects used +in the religious ceremonies together with the robes of deceased +Hutuktus preserved. A sheer cliff rose behind this museum, which +it was impossible for one to climb. On the face of this were +carved images of the Lamaite gods, scattered about without any +special order. They were from one to two and a half metres high. +At night the monks lighted lamps before them, so that one could see +these images of the gods and goddesses from far away. + +We entered the trading settlement. The streets were deserted and +from the windows only women and children looked out. I stopped +with a Russian firm whose other branches I had known throughout the +country. Much to my astonishment they welcomed me as an +acquaintance. It appeared that the Hutuktu of Narabanchi had sent +word to all the monasteries that, whenever I should come, they must +all render me aid, inasmuch as I had saved the Narabanchi Monastery +and, by the clear signs of the divinations, I was an incarnate +Buddha beloved of the Gods. This letter of this kindly disposed +Hutuktu helped me very much--perhaps I should even say more, that +it saved me from death. The hospitality of my hosts proved of +great and much needed assistance to me because my injured leg had +swelled and was aching severely. When I took off my boot, I found +my foot all covered with blood and my old wound re-opened by the +blow. A felcher was called to assist me with treatment and +bandaging, so that I was able to walk again three days later. + +I did not find Colonel Kazagrandi at Zain Shabi. After destroying +the Chinese gamins who had killed the local Commandant, he had +returned via Van Kure. The new Commandment handed me the letter of +Kazagrandi, who very cordially asked me to visit him after I had +rested in Zain. A Mongolian document was enclosed in the letter +giving me the right to receive horses and carts from herd to herd +by means of the "urga," which I shall later describe and which +opened for me an entirely new vista of Mongolian life and country +that I should otherwise never have seen. The making of this +journey of over two hundred miles was a very disagreeable task for +me; but evidently Kazagrandi, whom I had never met, had serious +reasons for wishing this meeting. + +At one o'clock the day after my arrival I was visited by the local +"Very God," Gheghen Pandita Hutuktu. A more strange and +extraordinary appearance of a god I could not imagine. He was a +short, thin young man of twenty or twenty-two years with quick, +nervous movements and with an expressive face lighted and +dominated, like the countenances of all the Mongol gods, by large, +frightened eyes. He was dressed in a blue silk Russian uniform +with yellow epaulets with the sacred sign of Pandita Hutuktu, in +blue silk trousers and high boots, all surmounted by a white +Astrakhan cap with a yellow pointed top. At his girdle a revolver +and sword were slung. I did not know quite what to think of this +disguised god. He took a cup of tea from the host and began to +talk with a mixture of Mongolian and Russian. + +"Not far from my Kure is located the ancient monastery of Erdeni +Dzu, erected on the site of the ruins of Karakorum, the ancient +capital of Jenghiz Khan and afterwards frequently visited by Kublai +Kahn for sanctuary and rest after his labors as Emperor of China, +India, Persia, Afghanistan, Mongolia and half of Europe. Now only +ruins and tombs remain to mark this former 'Garden of Beatific +Days.' The pious monks of Baroun Kure found in the underground +chambers of the ruins manuscripts that were much older than Erdeni +Dzu itself. In these my Maramba Meetchik-Atak found the prediction +that the Hutuktu of Zain who should carry the title of 'Pandita,' +should be but twenty-one years of age, be born in the heart of the +lands of Jenghiz Khan and have on his chest the natural sign of the +swastika--such Hutuktu would be honored by the people in the days +of a great war and trouble, would begin the fight with the servants +of Red evil and would conquer them and bring order into the +universe, celebrating this happy day in the city with white temples +and with the songs of ten thousand bells. It is I, Pandita +Hutuktu! The signs and symbols have met in me. I shall destroy +the Bolsheviki, the bad 'servants of the Red evil,' and in Moscow I +shall rest from my glorious and great work. Therefore I have asked +Colonel Kazagrandi to enlist me in the troops of Baron Ungern and +give me the chance to fight. The Lamas seek to prevent me from +going but who is the god here?" + +He very sternly stamped his foot, while the Lamas and guard who +accompanied him reverently bowed their heads. + +As he left he presented me with a hatyk and, rummaging through my +saddle bags, I found a single article that might be considered +worthy as a gift for a Hutuktu, a small bottle of osmiridium, this +rare, natural concomitant of platinum. + +"This is the most stable and hardest of metals," I said. "Let it +be the sign of your glory and strength, Hutuktu!" + +The Pandita thanked me and invited me to visit him. When I had +recovered a little, I went to his house, which was arranged in +European style: electric lights, push bells and telephone. He +feasted me with wine and sweets and introduced me to two very +interesting personages, one an old Tibetan surgeon with a face +deeply pitted by smallpox, a heavy thick nose and crossed eyes. He +was a peculiar surgeon, consecrated in Tibet. His duties consisted +in treating and curing Hutuktus when they were ill and . . . in +poisoning them when they became too independent or extravagant or +when their policies were not in accord with the wishes of the +Council of Lamas of the Living Buddha or the Dalai Lama. By now +Pandita Hutuktu probably rests in eternal peace on the top of some +sacred mountain, sent thither by the solicitude of his +extraordinary court physician. The martial spirit of Pandita +Hutuktu was very unwelcome to the Council of Lamas, who protested +against the adventuresomeness of this "Living God." + +Pandita liked wine and cards. One day when he was in the company +of Russians and dressed in a European suit, some Lamas came running +to announce that divine service had begun and that the "Living God" +must take his place on the altar to be prayed to but he had gone +out from his abode and was playing cards! Without any confusion +Pandita drew his red mantle of the Hutuktu over his European coat +and long grey trousers and allowed the shocked Lamas to carry their +"God" away in his palanquin. + +Besides the surgeon-poisoner I met at the Hutuktu's a lad of +thirteen years, whose youthfulness, red robe and cropped hair led +me to suppose he was a Bandi or student servant in the home of the +Hutuktu; but it turned out otherwise. This boy was the first +Hubilgan, also an incarnate Buddha, an artful teller of fortunes +and the successor of Pandita Hutuktu. He was drunk all the time +and a great card player, always making side-splitting jokes that +greatly offended the Lamas. + +That same evening I made the acquaintance of the second Hubilgan +who called on me, the real administrator of Zain Shabi, which is an +independent dominion subject directly to the Living Buddha. This +Hubilgan was a serious and ascetic man of thirty-two, well educated +and deeply learned in Mongol lore. He knew Russian and read much +in that language, being interested chiefly in the life and stories +of other peoples. He had a high respect for the creative genius of +the American people and said to me: + +"When you go to America, ask the Americans to come to us and lead +us out from the darkness that surrounds us. The Chinese and +Russians will lead us to destruction and only the Americans can +save us." + +It is a deep satisfaction for me to carry out the request of this +influential Mongol, Hubilgan, and to urge his appeal to the +American people. Will you not save this honest, uncorrupted but +dark, deceived and oppressed people? They should not be allowed to +perish, for within their souls they carry a great store of strong +moral forces. Make of them a cultured people, believing in the +verity of humankind; teach them to use the wealth of their land; +and the ancient people of Jenghiz Khan will ever be your faithful +friends. + +When I had sufficiently recovered, the Hutuktu invited me to travel +with him to Erdeni Dzu, to which I willingly agreed. On the +following morning a light and comfortable carriage was brought for +me. Our trip lasted five days, during which we visited Erdeni Dzu, +Karakorum, Hoto-Zaidam and Hara-Balgasun. All these are the ruins +of monasteries and cities erected by Jenghiz Khan and his +successors, Ugadai Khan and Kublai in the thirteenth century. Now +only the remnants of walls and towers remain, some large tombs and +whole books of legends and stories. + +"Look at these tombs!" said the Hutuktu to me. "Here the son of +Khan Uyuk was buried. This young prince was bribed by the Chinese +to kill his father but was frustrated in his attempt by his own +sister, who killed him in her watchful care of her old father, the +Emperor and Khan. There is the tomb of Tsinilla, the beloved +spouse of Khan Mangu. She left the capital of China to go to Khara +Bolgasun, where she fell in love with the brave shepherd Damcharen, +who overtook the wind on his steed and who captured wild yaks and +horses with his bare hands. The enraged Khan ordered his +unfaithful wife strangled but afterwards buried her with imperial +honors and frequently came to her tomb to weep for his lost love." + +"And what happened to Damcharen?" I inquired. + +The Hutuktu himself did not know; but his old servant, the real +archive of legends, answered: + +"With the aid of ferocious Chahar brigands he fought with China for +a long time. It is, however, unknown how he died." + +Among the ruins the monks pray at certain fixed times and they also +search for sacred books and objects concealed or buried in the +debris. Recently they found here two Chinese rifles and two gold +rings and big bundles of old manuscripts tied with leather thongs. + +"Why did this region attract the powerful emperors and Khans who +ruled from the Pacific to the Adriatic?" I asked myself. Certainly +not these mountains and valleys covered with larch and birch, not +these vast sands, receding lakes and barren rocks. It seems that I +found the answer. + +The great emperors, remembering the vision of Jenghiz Khan, sought +here new revelations and predictions of his miraculous, majestic +destiny, surrounded by the divine honors, obeisance and hate. +Where could they come into touch with the gods, the good and bad +spirits? Only there where they abode. All the district of Zain +with these ancient ruins is just such a place. + +"On this mountain only such men can ascend as are born of the +direct line of Jenghiz Khan," the Pandita explained to me. "Half +way up the ordinary man suffocates and dies, if he ventures to go +further. Recently Mongolian hunters chased a pack of wolves up +this mountain and, when they came to this part of the mountainside, +they all perished. There on the slopes of the mountain lie the +bones of eagles, big horned sheep and the kabarga antelope, light +and swift as the wind. There dwells the bad demon who possesses +the book of human destinies." + +"This is the answer," I thought. + +In the Western Caucasus I once saw a mountain between Soukhoum Kale +and Tuopsei where wolves, eagles and wild goats also perish, and +where men would likewise perish if they did not go on horseback +through this zone. There the earth breathes out carbonic acid gas +through holes in the mountainside, killing all animal life. The +gas clings to the earth in a layer about half a metre thick. Men +on horseback pass above this and the horses always hold their heads +way up and snuff and whinny in fear until they cross the dangerous +zone. Here on the top of this mountain where the bad demon peruses +the book of human destinies is the same phenomenon, and I realized +the sacred fear of the Mongols as well as the stern attraction of +this place for the tall, almost gigantic descendants of Jenghiz +Khan. Their heads tower above the layers of poisonous gas, so that +they can reach the top of this mysterious and terrible mountain. +Also it is possible to explain this phenomenon geologically, +because here in this region is the southern edge of the coal +deposits which are the source of carbonic acid and swamp gases. + +Not far from the ruins in the lands of Hun Doptchin Djamtso there +is a small lake which sometimes burns with a red flame, terrifying +the Mongols and herds of horses. Naturally this lake is rich with +legends. Here a meteor formerly fell and sank far into the earth. +In the hole this lake appeared. Now, it seems, the inhabitants of +the subterranean passages, semi-man and semi-demon, are laboring to +extract this "stone of the sky" from its deep bed and it is setting +the water on fire as it rises and falls back in spite of their +every effort. I did not see the lake myself but a Russian colonist +told me that it may be petroleum on the lake that is fired either +from the campfires of the shepherds or by the blazing rays of the +sun. + +At any rate all this makes it very easy to understand the +attractions for the great Mongol potentates. The strongest +impression was produced upon me by Karakorum, the place where the +cruel and wise Jenghiz Khan lived and laid his gigantic plans for +overrunning all the west with blood and for covering the east with +a glory never before seen. Two Karakorums were erected by Jenghiz +Khan, one here near Tatsa Gol on the Caravan Road and the other in +Pamir, where the sad warriors buried the greatest of human +conquerors in the mausoleum built by five hundred captives who were +sacrificed to the spirit of the deceased when their work was done. + +The warlike Pandita Hutuktu prayed on the ruins where the shades of +these potentates who had ruled half the world wandered, and his +soul longed for the chimerical exploits and for the glory of +Jenghiz and Tamerlane. + +On the return journey we were invited not far from Zain to visit a +very rich Mongol by the way. He had already prepared the yurtas +suitable for Princes, ornamented with rich carpets and silk +draperies. The Hutuktu accepted. We arranged ourselves on the +soft pillows in the yurtas as the Hutuktu blessed the Mongol, +touching his head with his holy hand, and received the hatyks. The +host then had a whole sheep brought in to us, boiled in a huge +vessel. The Hutuktu carved off one hind leg and offered it to me, +while he reserved the other for himself. After this he gave a +large piece of meat to the smallest son of the host, which was the +sign that Pandita Hutuktu invited all to begin the feast. In a +trice the sheep was entirely carved or torn up and in the hands of +the banqueters. When the Hutuktu had thrown down by the brazier +the white bones without a trace of meat left on them, the host on +his knees withdrew from the fire a piece of sheepskin and +ceremoniously offered it on both his hands to the Hutuktu. Pandita +began to clean off the wool and ashes with his knife and, cutting +it into thin strips, fell to eating this really tasty course. It +is the covering from just above the breast bone and is called in +Mongolian tarach or "arrow." When a sheep is skinned, this small +section is cut out and placed on the hot coals, where it is broiled +very slowly. Thus prepared it is considered the most dainty bit of +the whole animal and is always presented to the guest of honor. It +is not permissible to divide it, such is the strength of the custom +and ceremony. + +After dinner our host proposed a hunt for bighorns, a large herd of +which was known to graze in the mountains within less than a mile +from the yurtas. Horses with rich saddles and bridles were led up. +All the elaborate harness of the Hutuktu's mount was ornamented +with red and yellow bits of cloth as a mark of his rank. About +fifty Mongol riders galloped behind us. When we left our horses, +we were placed behind the rocks roughly three hundred paces apart +and the Mongols began the encircling movement around the mountain. +After about half an hour I noticed way up among the rocks something +flash and soon made out a fine bighorn jumping with tremendous +springs from rock to rock, and behind him a herd of some twenty odd +head leaping like lightning over the ground. I was vexed beyond +words when it appeared that the Mongols had made a mess of it and +pushed the herd out to the side before having completed their +circle. But happily I was mistaken. Behind a rock right ahead of +the herd a Mongol sprang up and waved his hands. Only the big +leader was not frightened and kept right on past the unarmed Mongol +while all the rest of the herd swung suddenly round and rushed +right down upon me. I opened fire and dropped two of them. The +Hutuktu also brought down one as well as a musk antelope that came +unexpectedly from behind a rock hard by. The largest pair of horns +weighed about thirty pounds, but they were from a young sheep. + +The day following our return to Zain Shabi, as I was feeling quite +recovered, I decided to go on to Van Kure. At my leave-taking from +the Hutuktu I received a large hatyk from him together with warmest +expressions of thanks for the present I had given him on the first +day of our acquaintance. + +"It is a fine medicine!" he exclaimed. "After our trip I felt +quite exhausted but I took your medicine and am now quite +rejuvenated. Many, many thanks!" + +The poor chap had swallowed my osmiridium. To be sure it could not +harm him; but to have helped him was wonderful. Perhaps doctors in +the Occident may wish to try this new, harmless and very cheap +remedy--only eight pounds of it in the whole world--and I merely +ask that they leave me the patent rights for it for Mongolia, +Barga, Sinkiang, Koko Nor and all the other lands of Central Asia. + +An old Russian colonist went as guide for me. They gave me a big +but light and comfortable cart hitched and drawn in a marvelous +way. A straight pole four metres long was fastened athwart the +front of the shafts. On either side two riders took this pole +across their saddle pommels and galloped away with me across the +plains. Behind us galloped four other riders with four extra +horses. + + +CHAPTER XXX + +ARRESTED! + + +About twelve miles from Zain we saw from a ridge a snakelike line +of riders crossing the valley, which detachment we met half an hour +later on the shore of a deep, swampy stream. The group consisted +of Mongols, Buriats and Tibetans armed with Russian rifles. At the +head of the column were two men, one of whom in a huge black +Astrakhan and black felt cape with red Caucasian cowl on his +shoulders blocked my road and, in a coarse, harsh voice, demanded +of me: "Who are you, where are you from and where are you going?" + +I gave also a laconic answer. They then said that they were a +detachment of troops from Baron Ungern under the command of Captain +Vandaloff. "I am Captain Bezrodnoff, military judge." + +Suddenly he laughed loudly. His insolent, stupid face did not +please me and, bowing to the officers, I ordered my riders to move. + +"Oh no!" he remonstrated, as he blocked the road again. "I cannot +allow you to go farther. I want to have a long and serious +conversation with you and you will have to come back to Zain for +it." + +I protested and called attention to the letter of Colonel +Kazagrandi, only to hear Bezrodnoff answer with coldness: + +"This letter is a matter of Colonel Kazagrandi's and to bring you +back to Zain and talk with you is my affair. Now give me your +weapon." + +But I could not yield to this demand, even though death were +threatened. + +"Listen," I said. "Tell me frankly. Is yours really a detachment +fighting against the Boisheviki or is it a Red contingent?" + +"No, I assure you!" replied the Buriat officer Vandaloff, +approaching me. "We have already been fighting the Bolsheviki for +three years." + +"Then I cannot hand you my weapon," I calmly replied. "I brought +it from Soviet Siberia, have had many fights with this faithful +weapon and now I am to be disarmed by White officers! It is an +offence that I cannot allow." + +With these words I threw my rifle and my Mauser into the stream. +The officers were confused. Bezrodnoff turned red with anger. + +"I freed you and myself from humiliation," I explained. + +Bezrodnoff in silence turned his horse, the whole detachment of +three hundred men passed immediately before me and only the last +two riders stopped, ordered my Mongols to turn my cart round and +then fell in behind my little group. So I was arrested! One of +the horsemen behind me was a Russian and he told me that Bezrodnoff +carried with him many death decrees. I was sure that mine was +among them. + +Stupid, very stupid! What was the use of fighting one's way +through Red detachments, of being frozen and hungry, of almost +perishing in Tibet only to die from a bullet of one of Bezrodnoff's +Mongols? For such a pleasure it was not worth while to travel so +long and so far! In every Siberian "Cheka" I could have had this +end so joyfully accorded me. + +When we arrived at Zain Shabi, my luggage was examined and +Bezrodnoff began to question me in minutest detail about the events +in Uliassutai. We talked about three hours, during which I tried +to defend all the officers of Uliassutai, maintaining that one must +not trust only the reports of Domojiroff. When our conversation +was finished, the Captain stood up and offered his apologies for +detaining me in my journey. Afterwards he presented me a fine +Mauser with silver mountings on the handle and said: + +"Your pride greatly pleased me. I beg you to receive this weapon +as a memento of me." + +The following morning I set out anew from Zain Shabi, having in my +pocket the laissez-passer of Bezrodnoff for his outposts. + + +CHAPTER XXXI + +TRAVELING BY "URGA" + + +Once more we traveled along the now known places, the mountain from +which I espied the detachment of Bezrodnoff, the stream into which +I had thrown my weapon, and soon all this lay behind us. At the +first ourton we were disappointed because we did not find horses +there. In the yurtas were only the host with two of his sons. I +showed him my document and he exclaimed: + +"Noyon has the right of 'urga.' Horses will be brought very soon." + +He jumped into his saddle, took two of my Mongols with him, +providing them and himself with long thin poles, four or five +metres in length, and fitted at the end with a loop of rope, and +galloped away. My cart moved behind them. We left the road, +crossed the plain for an hour and came upon a big herd of horses +grazing there. The Mongol began to catch a quota of them for us +with his pole and noose or urga, when out of the mountains nearby +came galloping the owners of the herds. When the old Mongol showed +my papers to them, they submissively acquiesced and substituted +four of their men for those who had come with me thus far. In this +manner the Mongols travel, not along the ourton or station road but +directly from one herd to another, where the fresh horses are +caught and saddled and the new owners substituted for those of the +last herd. All the Mongols so effected by the right of urga try to +finish their task as rapidly as possible and gallop like mad for +the nearest herd in your general direction of travel to turn over +their task to their neighbor. Any traveler having this right of +urga can catch horses himself and, if there are no owners, can +force the former ones to carry on and leave the animals in the next +herd he requisitions. But this happens very rarely because the +Mongol never likes to seek out his animals in another's herd, as it +always gives so many chances for controversy. + +It was from this custom, according to one explanation, that the +town of Urga took its name among outsiders. By the Mongols +themselves it is always referred to as Ta Kure, "The Great +Monastery." The reason the Buriats and Russians, who were the +first to trade into this region, called it Urga was because it was +the principal destination of all the trading expeditions which +crossed the plains by this old method or right of travel. A second +explanation is that the town lies in a "loop" whose sides are +formed by three mountain ridges, along one of which the River Tola +runs like the pole or stick of the familiar urga of the plains. + +Thanks to this unique ticket of urga I crossed quite untraveled +sections of Mongolia for about two hundred miles. It gave me the +welcome opportunity to observe the fauna of this part of the +country. I saw many huge herds of Mongolian antelopes running from +five to six thousand, many groups of bighorns, wapiti and kabarga +antelopes. Sometimes small herds of wild horses and wild asses +flashed as a vision on the horizon. + +In one place I observed a big colony of marmots. All over an area +of several square miles their mounds were scattered with the holes +leading down to their runways below, the dwellings of the marmot. +In and out among these mounds the greyish-yellow or brown animals +ran in all sizes up to half that of an average dog. They ran +heavily and the skin on their fat bodies moved as though it were +too big for them. The marmots are splendid prospectors, always +digging deep ditches, throwing out on the surface all the stones. +In many places I saw mounds the marmots had made from copper ore +and farther north some from minerals containing wolfram and +vanadium. Whenever the marmot is at the entrance of his hole, he +sits up straight on his hind legs and looks like a bit of wood, a +small stump or a stone. As soon as he spies a rider in the +distance, he watches him with great curiosity and begins whistling +sharply. This curiosity of the marmots is taken advantage of by +the hunters, who sneak up to their holes flourishing streamers of +cloth on the tips of long poles. The whole attention of the small +animals is concentrated on this small flag and only the bullet that +takes his life explains to him the reason for this previously +unknown object. + +I saw a very exciting picture as I passed through a marmot colony +near the Orkhon River. There were thousands of holes here so that +my Mongols had to use all their skill to keep the horses from +breaking their legs in them. I noticed an eagle circling high +overhead. All of a sudden he dropped like a stone to the top of a +mound, where he sat motionless as a rock. The marmot in a few +minutes ran out of his hole to a neighbor's doorway. The eagle +calmly jumped down from the top and with one wing closed the +entrance to the hole. The rodent heard the noise, turned back and +rushed to the attack, trying to break through to his hole where he +had evidently left his family. The struggle began. The eagle +fought with one free wing, one leg and his beak but did not +withdraw the bar to the entrance. The marmot jumped at the +rapacious bird with great boldness but soon fell from a blow on the +head. Only then the eagle withdrew his wing, approached the +marmot, finished him off and with difficulty lifted him in his +talons to carry him away to the mountains for a tasty luncheon. + +In the more barren places with only occasional spears of grass in +the plain another species of rodent lives, called imouran, about +the size of a squirrel. They have a coat the same color as the +prairie and, running about it like snakes, they collect the seeds +that are blown across by the wind and carry them down into their +diminutive homes. The imouran has a truly faithful friend, the +yellow lark of the prairie with a brown back and head. When he +sees the imouran running across the plain, he settles on his back, +flaps his wings in balance and rides well this swiftly galloping +mount, who gaily flourishes his long shaggy tail. The lark during +his ride skilfully and quickly catches the parasites living on the +body of his friend, giving evidence of his enjoyment of his work +with a short agreeable song. The Mongols call the imouran "the +steed of the gay lark." The lark warns the imouran of the approach +of eagles and hawks with three sharp whistles the moment he sees +the aerial brigand and takes refuge himself behind a stone or in a +small ditch. After this signal no imouran will stick his head out +of his hole until the danger is past. Thus the gay lark and his +steed live in kindly neighborliness. + +In other parts of Mongolia where there was very rich grass I saw +another type of rodent, which I had previously come across in +Urianhai. It is a gigantic black prairie rat with a short tail and +lives in colonies of from one to two hundred. He is interesting +and unique as the most skilful farmer among the animals in his +preparation of his winter supply of fodder. During the weeks when +the grass is most succulent he actually mows it down with swift +jerky swings of his head, cutting about twenty or thirty stalks +with his sharp long front teeth. Then he allows his grass to cure +and later puts up his prepared hay in a most scientific manner. +First he makes a mound about a foot high. Through this he pushes +down into the ground four slanting stakes, converging toward the +middle of the pile, and binds them close over the surface of the +hay with the longest strands of grass, leaving the ends protruding +enough for him to add another foot to the height of the pile, when +he again binds the surface with more long strands--all this to keep +his winter supply of food from blowing away over the prairie. This +stock he always locates right at the door of his den to avoid long +winter hauls. The horses and camels are very fond of this small +farmer's hay, because it is always made from the most nutritious +grass. The haycocks are so strongly made that one can hardly kick +them to pieces. + +Almost everywhere in Mongolia I met either single pairs or whole +flocks of the greyish-yellow prairie partridges, salga or +"partridge swallow," so called because they have long sharp tails +resembling those of swallows and because their flight also is a +close copy of that of the swallow. These birds are very tame or +fearless, allowing men to come within ten or fifteen paces of them; +but, when they do break, they go high and fly long distances +without lighting, whistling all the time quite like swallows. +Their general markings are light grey and yellow, though the males +have pretty chocolate spots on the backs and wings, while their +legs and feet are heavily feathered. + +My opportunity to make these observations came from traveling +through unfrequented regions by the urga, which, however, had its +counterbalancing disadvantages. The Mongols carried me directly +and swiftly toward my destination, receiving with great +satisfaction the presents of Chinese dollars which I gave them. +But after having made about five thousand miles on my Cossack +saddle that now lay behind me on the cart all covered with dust +like common merchandise, I rebelled against being wracked and torn +by the rough riding of the cart as it was swung heedlessly over +stones, hillocks and ditches by the wild horses with their equally +wild riders, bounding and cracking and holding together only +through its tenacity of purpose in demonstrating the cosiness and +attractiveness of a good Mongol equipage! All my bones began to +ache. Finally I groaned at every lunge and at last I suffered a +very sharp attack of ischias or sciatica in my wounded leg. At +night I could neither sleep, lie down nor sit with comfort and +spent the whole night pacing up and down the plain, listening to +the loud snoring of the inhabitants of the yurta. At times I had +to fight the two huge black dogs which attacked me. The following +day I could endure the wracking only until noon and was then forced +to give up and lie down. The pain was unbearable. I could not +move my leg nor my back and finally fell into a high fever. We +were forced to stop and rest. I swallowed all my stock of aspirin +and quinine but without relief. Before me was a sleepless night +about which I could not think without weakening fear. We had +stopped in the yurta for guests by the side of a small monastery. +My Mongols invited the Lama doctor to visit me, who gave me two +very bitter powders and assured me I should be able to continue in +the morning. I soon felt a stimulated palpitation of the heart, +after which the pain became even sharper. Again I spent the night +without any sleep but when the sun arose the pain ceased instantly +and, after an hour, I ordered them to saddle me a horse, as I was +afraid to continue further in the cart. + +While the Mongols were catching the horses, there came to my tent +Colonel N. N. Philipoff, who told me that he denied all the +accusations that he and his brother and Poletika were Bolsheviki +and that Bezrodnoff allowed him to go to Van Kure to meet Baron +Ungern, who was expected there. Only Philipoff did not know that +his Mongol guide was armed with a bomb and that another Mongol had +been sent on ahead with a letter to Baron Ungern. He did not know +that Poletika and his brothers were shot at the same time in Zain +Shabi. Philipoff was in a hurry and wanted to reach Van Kure that +day. I left an hour after him. + + +CHAPTER XXXII + +AN OLD FORTUNE TELLER + + +From this point we began traveling along the ourton road. In this +region the Mongols had very poor and exhausted horses, because they +were forced continuously to supply mounts to the numerous envoys of +Daichin Van and of Colonel Kazagrandi. We were compelled to spend +the night at the last ourton before Van Kure, where a stout old +Mongol and his son kept the station. After our supper he took the +shoulder-blade of the sheep, which had been carefully scraped clean +of all the flesh, and, looking at me, placed this bone in the coals +with some incantations and said: + +"I want to tell your fortune. All my predictions come true." + +When the bone had been blackened he drew it out, blew off the ashes +and began to scrutinize the surface very closely and to look +through it into the fire. He continued his examination for a long +time and then, with fear in his face, placed the bone back in the +coals. + +"What did you see?" I asked, laughing. + +"Be silent!" he whispered. "I made out horrible signs." + +He again took out the bone and began examining it all over, all the +time whispering prayers and making strange movements. In a very +solemn quiet voice he began his predictions. + +"Death in the form of a tall white man with red hair will stand +behind you and will watch you long and close. You will feel it and +wait but Death will withdraw. . . . Another white man will become +your friend. . . . Before the fourth day you will lose your +acquaintances. They will die by a long knife. I already see them +being eaten by the dogs. Beware of the man with a head like a +saddle. He will strive for your death." + +For a long time after the fortune had been told we sat smoking and +drinking tea but still the old fellow looked at me only with fear. +Through my brain flashed the thought that thus must his companions +in prison look at one who is condemned to death. + +The next morning we left the fortune teller before the sun was up, +and, when we had made about fifteen miles, hove in sight of Van +Kure. I found Colonel Kazagrandi at his headquarters. He was a +man of good family, an experienced engineer and a splendid officer, +who had distinguished himself in the war at the defence of the +island of Moon in the Baltic and afterwards in the fight with the +Bolsheviki on the Volga. Colonel Kazagrandi offered me a bath in a +real tub, which had its habitat in the house of the president of +the local Chamber of Commerce. As I was in this house, a tall +young captain entered. He had long curly red hair and an unusually +white face, though heavy and stolid, with large, steel-cold eyes +and with beautiful, tender, almost girlish lips. But in his eyes +there was such cold cruelty that it was quite unpleasant to look at +his otherwise fine face. When he left the room, our host told me +that he was Captain Veseloffsky, the adjutant of General Rezukhin, +who was fighting against the Bolsheviki in the north of Mongolia. +They had just that day arrived for a conference with Baron Ungern. + +After luncheon Colonel Kazagrandi invited me to his yurta and began +discussing events in western Mongolia, where the situation had +become very tense. + +"Do you know Dr. Gay?" Kazagrandi asked me. "You know he helped me +to form my detachment but Urga accuses him of being the agent of +the Soviets." + +I made all the defences I could for Gay. He had helped me and had +been exonerated by Kolchak. + +"Yes, yes, and I justified Gay in such a manner," said the Colonel, +"but Rezukhin, who has just arrived today, has brought letters of +Gay's to the Bolsheviki which were seized in transit. By order of +Baron Ungern, Gay and his family have today been sent to the +headquarters of Rezukhin and I fear that they will not reach this +destination." + +"Why?" I asked. + +"They will be executed on the road!" answered Colonel Kazagrandi. + +"What are we to do?" I responded. "Gay cannot be a Bolshevik, +"because he is too well educated and too clever for it." + +"I don't know; I don't know!" murmured the Colonel with a +despondent gesture. "Try to speak with Rezukhin." + +I decided to proceed at once to Rezukhin but just then Colonel +Philipoff entered and began talking about the errors being made in +the training of the soldiers. When I had donned my coat, another +man came in. He was a small sized officer with an old green +Cossack cap with a visor, a torn grey Mongol overcoat and with his +right hand in a black sling tied around his neck. It was General +Rezukhin, to whom I was at once introduced. During the +conversation the General very politely and very skilfully inquired +about the lives of Philipoff and myself during the last three +years, joking and laughing with discretion and modesty. When he +soon took his leave, I availed myself of the chance and went out +with him. + +He listened very attentively and politely to me and afterwards, in +his quiet voice, said: + +"Dr. Gay is the agent of the Soviets, disguised as a White in order +the better to see, hear and know everything. We are surrounded by +our enemies. The Russian people are demoralized and will undertake +any treachery for money. Such is Gay. Anyway, what is the use of +discussing him further? He and his family are no longer alive. +Today my men cut them to pieces five kilometres from here." + +In consternation and fear I looked at the face of this small, +dapper man with such soft voice and courteous manners. In his eyes +I read such hate and tenacity that I understood at once the +trembling respect of all the officers whom I had seen in his +presence. Afterwards in Urga I learned more of this General +Rezukhin distinguished by his absolute bravery and boundless +cruelty. He was the watchdog of Baron Ungern, ready to throw +himself into the fire and to spring at the throat of anyone his +master might indicate. + +Only four days then had elapsed before "my acquaintances" died "by +a long knife," so that one part of the prediction had been thus +fulfilled. And now I have to await Death's threat to me. The +delay was not long. Only two days later the Chief of the Asiatic +Division of Cavalry arrived--Baron Ungern von Sternberg. + + +CHAPTER XXXIII + +"DEATH FROM THE WHITE MAN WILL STAND BEHIND YOU" + + +"The terrible general, the Baron," arrived quite unexpectedly, +unnoticed by the outposts of Colonel Kazagrandi. After a talk with +Kazagrandi the Baron invited Colonel N. N. Philipoff and me into +his presence. Colonel Kazagrandi brought the word to me. I wanted +to go at once but was detained about half an hour by the Colonel, +who then sped me with the words: + +"Now God help you! Go!" + +It was a strange parting message, not reassuring and quite +enigmatical. I took my Mauser and also hid in the cuff of my coat +my cyanide of potassium. The Baron was quartered in the yurta of +the military doctor. When I entered the court, Captain Veseloffsky +came up to me. He had a Cossack sword and a revolver without its +holster beneath his girdle. He went into the yurta to report my +arrival. + +"Come in," he said, as he emerged from the tent. + +At the entrance my eyes were struck with the sight of a pool of +blood that had not yet had time to drain down into the ground--an +ominous greeting that seemed to carry the very voice of one just +gone before me. I knocked. + +"Come in!" was the answer in a high tenor. As I passed the +threshold, a figure in a red silk Mongolian coat rushed at me with +the spring of a tiger, grabbed and shook my hand as though in +flight across my path and then fell prone on the bed at the side of +the tent. + +"Tell me who you are! Hereabouts are many spies and agitators," he +cried out in an hysterical voice, as he fixed his eyes upon me. In +one moment I perceived his appearance and psychology. A small head +on wide shoulders; blonde hair in disorder; a reddish bristling +moustache; a skinny, exhausted face, like those on the old +Byzantine ikons. Then everything else faded from view save a big, +protruding forehead overhanging steely sharp eyes. These eyes were +fixed upon me like those of an animal from a cave. My observations +lasted for but a flash but I understood that before me was a very +dangerous man ready for an instant spring into irrevocable action. +Though the danger was evident, I felt the deepest offence. + +"Sit down," he snapped out in a hissing voice, as he pointed to a +chair and impatiently pulled at his moustache. I felt my anger +rising through my whole body and I said to him without taking the +chair: + +"You have allowed yourself to offend me, Baron. My name is well +enough known so that you cannot thus indulge yourself in such +epithets. You can do with me as you wish, because force is on your +side, but you cannot compel me to speak with one who gives me +offence." + +At these words of mine he swung his feet down off the bed and with +evident astonishment began to survey me, holding his breath and +pulling still at his moustache. Retaining my exterior calmness, I +began to glance indifferently around the yurta, and only then I +noticed General Rezukhin. I bowed to him and received his silent +acknowledgment. After that I swung my glance back to the Baron, +who sat with bowed head and closed eyes, from time to time rubbing +his brow and mumbling to himself. + +Suddenly he stood up and sharply said, looking past and over me: + +"Go out! There is no need of more. . . ." + +I swung round and saw Captain Veseloffsky with his white, cold +face. I had not heard him enter. He did a formal "about face" and +passed out of the door. + +"'Death from the white man' has stood behind me," I thought; "but +has it quite left me?" + +The Baron stood thinking for some time and then began to speak in +jumbled, unfinished phrases. + +"I ask your pardon. . . . You must understand there are so many +traitors! Honest men have disappeared. I cannot trust anybody. +All names are false and assumed; documents are counterfeited. Eyes +and words deceive. . . . All is demoralized, insulted by +Bolshevism. I just ordered Colonel Philipoff cut down, he who +called himself the representative of the Russian White +Organization. In the lining of his garments were found two secret +Bolshevik codes. . . . When my officer flourished his sword over +him, he exclaimed: 'Why do you kill me, Tavarische?' I cannot +trust anybody. . . ." + +He was silent and I also held my peace. + +"I beg your pardon!" he began anew. "I offended you; but I am not +simply a man, I am a leader of great forces and have in my head so +much care, sorrow and woe!" + +In his voice I felt there was mingled despair and sincerity. He +frankly put out his hand to me. Again silence. At last I +answered: + +"What do you order me to do now, for I have neither counterfeit nor +real documents? But many of your officers know me and in Urga I +can find many who will testify that I could be neither agitator +nor. . ." + +"No need, no need!" interrupted the Baron. "All is clear, all is +understood! I was in your soul and I know all. It is the truth +which Hutuktu Narabanchi has written about you. What can I do for +you?" + +I explained how my friend and I had escaped from Soviet Russia in +the effort to reach our native land and how a group of Polish +soldiers had joined us in the hope of getting back to Poland; and I +asked that help be given us to reach the nearest port. + +"With pleasure, with pleasure. . . . I will help you all," he +answered excitedly. "I shall drive you to Urga in my motor car. +Tomorrow we shall start and there in Urga we shall talk about +further arrangements." + +Taking my leave, I went out of the yurta. On arriving at my +quarters, I found Colonel Kazagrandi in great anxiety walking up +and down my room. + +"Thanks be to God!" he exclaimed and crossed himself. + +His joy was very touching but at the same time I thought that the +Colonel could have taken much more active measures for the +salvation of his guest, if he had been so minded. The agitation of +this day had tired me and made me feel years older. When I looked +in the mirror I was certain there were more white hairs on my head. +At night I could not sleep for the flashing thoughts of the young, +fine face of Colonel Philipoff, the pool of blood, the cold eyes of +Captain Veseloffsky, the sound of Baron Ungern's voice with its +tones of despair and woe, until finally I sank into a heavy stupor. +I was awakened by Baron Ungern who came to ask pardon that he could +not take me in his motor car, because he was obliged to take +Daichin Van with him. But he informed me that he had left +instructions to give me his own white camel and two Cossacks as +servants. I had no time to thank him before he rushed out of my +room. + +Sleep then entirely deserted me, so I dressed and began smoking +pipe after pipe of tobacco, as I thought: "How much easier to +fight the Bolsheviki on the swamps of Seybi and to cross the snowy +peaks of Ulan Taiga, where the bad demons kill all the travelers +they can! There everything was simple and comprehensible, but here +it is all a mad nightmare, a dark and foreboding storm!" I felt +some tragedy, some horror in every movement of Baron Ungern, behind +whom paced this silent, white-faced Veseloffsky and Death. + + +CHAPTER XXXIV + +THE HORROR OF WAR! + + +At dawn of the following morning they led up the splendid white +camel for me and we moved away. My company consisted of the two +Cossacks, two Mongol soldiers and one Lama with two pack camels +carrying the tent and food. I still apprehended that the Baron had +it in mind not to dispose of me before my friends there in Van Kure +but to prepare this journey for me under the guise of which it +would be so easy to do away with me by the road. A bullet in the +back and all would be finished. Consequently I was momentarily +ready to draw my revolver and defend myself. I took care all the +time to have the Cossacks either ahead of me or at the side. About +noon we heard the distant honk of a motor car and soon saw Baron +Ungern whizzing by us at full speed. With him were two adjutants +and Prince Daichin Van. The Baron greeted me very kindly and +shouted: + +"Shall see you again in Urga!" + +"Ah!" I thought, "evidently I shall reach Urga. So I can be at +ease during my trip, and in Urga I have many friends beside the +presence there of the bold Polish soldiers whom I had worked with +in Uliassutai and who had outdistanced me in this journey." + +After the meeting with the Baron my Cossacks became very attentive +to me and sought to distract me with stories. They told me about +their very severe struggles with the Bolsheviki in Transbaikalia +and Mongolia, about the battle with the Chinese near Urga, about +finding communistic passports on several Chinese soldiers from +Moscow, about the bravery of Baron Ungern and how he would sit at +the campfire smoking and drinking tea right on the battle line +without ever being touched by a bullet. At one fight seventy-four +bullets entered his overcoat, saddle and the boxes by his side and +again left him untouched. This is one of the reasons for his great +influence over the Mongols. They related how before the battle he +had made a reconnaissance in Urga with only one Cossack and on his +way back had killed a Chinese officer and two soldiers with his +bamboo stick or tashur; how he had no outfit save one change of +linen and one extra pair of boots; how he was always calm and +jovial in battle and severe and morose in the rare days of peace; +and how he was everywhere his soldiers were fighting. + +I told them, in turn, of my escape from Siberia and with chatting +thus the day slipped by very quickly. Our camels trotted all the +time, so that instead of the ordinary eighteen to twenty miles per +day we made nearly fifty. My mount was the fastest of them all. +He was a huge white animal with a splendid thick mane and had been +presented to Baron Ungern by some Prince of Inner Mongolia with two +black sables tied on the bridle. He was a calm, strong, bold giant +of the desert, on whose back I felt myself as though perched on the +tower of a building. Beyond the Orkhon River we came across the +first dead body of a Chinese soldier, which lay face up and arms +outstretched right in the middle of the road. When we had crossed +the Burgut Mountains, we entered the Tola River valley, farther up +which Urga is located. The road was strewn with the overcoats, +shirts, boots, caps and kettles which the Chinese had thrown away +in their flight; and marked by many of their dead. Further on the +road crossed a morass, where on either side lay great mounds of the +dead bodies of men, horses and camels with broken carts and +military debris of every sort. Here the Tibetans of Baron Ungern +had cut up the escaping Chinese baggage transport; and it was a +strange and gloomy contrast to see the piles of dead besides the +effervescing awakening life of spring. In every pool wild ducks of +different kinds floated about; in the high grass the cranes +performed their weird dance of courtship; on the lakes great flocks +of swans and geese were swimming; through the swampy places like +spots of light moved the brilliantly colored pairs of the Mongolian +sacred bird, the turpan or "Lama goose"; on the higher dry places +flocks of wild turkey gamboled and fought as they fed; flocks of +the salga partridge whistled by; while on the mountain side not far +away the wolves lay basking and turning in the lazy warmth of the +sun, whining and occasionally barking like playful dogs. + +Nature knows only life. Death is for her but an episode whose +traces she rubs out with sand and snow or ornaments with luxuriant +greenery and brightly colored bushes and flowers. What matters it +to Nature if a mother at Chefoo or on the banks of the Yangtse +offers her bowl of rice with burning incense at some shrine and +prays for the return of her son that has fallen unknown for all +time on the plains along the Tola, where his bones will dry beneath +the rays of Nature's dissipating fire and be scattered by her winds +over the sands of the prairie? It is splendid, this indifference +of Nature to death, and her greediness for life! + +On the fourth day we made the shores of the Tola well after +nightfall. We could not find the regular ford and I forced my +camel to enter the stream in the attempt to make a crossing without +guidance. Very fortunately I found a shallow, though somewhat +miry, place and we got over all right. This is something to be +thankful for in fording a river with a camel; because, when your +mount finds the water too deep, coming up around his neck, he does +not strike out and swim like a horse will do but just rolls over on +his side and floats, which is vastly inconvenient for his rider. +Down by the river we pegged our tent. + +Fifteen miles further on we crossed a battlefield, where the third +great battle for the independence of Mongolia had been fought. +Here the troops of Baron Ungern clashed with six thousand Chinese +moving down from Kiakhta to the aid of Urga. The Chinese were +completely defeated and four thousand prisoners taken. However, +these surrendered Chinese tried to escape during the night. Baron +Ungern sent the Transbaikal Cossacks and Tibetans in pursuit of +them and it was their work which we saw on this field of death. +There were still about fifteen hundred unburied and as many more +interred, according to the statements of our Cossacks, who had +participated in this battle. The killed showed terrible sword +wounds; everywhere equipment and other debris were scattered about. +The Mongols with their herds moved away from the neighborhood and +their place was taken by the wolves which hid behind every stone +and in every ditch as we passed. Packs of dogs that had become +wild fought with the wolves over the prey. + +At last we left this place of carnage to the cursed god of war. +Soon we approached a shallow, rapid stream, where the Mongols +slipped from their camels, took off their caps and began drinking. +It was a sacred stream which passed beside the abode of the Living +Buddha. From this winding valley we suddenly turned into another +where a great mountain ridge covered with dark, dense forest loomed +up before us. + +"Holy Bogdo-Ol!" exclaimed the Lama. "The abode of the Gods which +guard our Living Buddha!" + +Bogdo-Ol is the huge knot which ties together here three mountain +chains: Gegyl from the southwest, Gangyn from the south, and Huntu +from the north. This mountain covered with virgin forest is the +property of the Living Buddha. The forests are full of nearly all +the varieties of animals found in Mongolia, but hunting is not +allowed. Any Mongol violating this law is condemned to death, +while foreigners are deported. Crossing the Bogdo-Ol is forbidden +under penalty of death. This command was transgressed by only one +man, Baron Ungern, who crossed the mountain with fifty Cossacks, +penetrated to the palace of the Living Buddha, where the Pontiff of +Urga was being held under arrest by the Chinese, and stole him. + + +CHAPTER XXXV + +IN THE CITY OF LIVING GODS, OF 30,000 BUDDHAS AND 60,000 MONKS + + +At last before our eyes the abode of the Living Buddha! At the +foot of Bogdo-Ol behind white walls rose a white Tibetan building +covered with greenish-blue tiles that glittered under the sunshine. +It was richly set among groves of trees dotted here and there with +the fantastic roofs of shrines and small palaces, while further +from the mountain it was connected by a long wooden bridge across +the Tola with the city of monks, sacred and revered throughout all +the East as Ta Kure or Urga. Here besides the Living Buddha live +whole throngs of secondary miracle workers, prophets, sorcerers and +wonderful doctors. All these people have divine origin and are +honored as living gods. At the left on the high plateau stands an +old monastery with a huge, dark red tower, which is known as the +"Temple Lamas City," containing a gigantic bronze gilded statue of +Buddha sitting on the golden flower of the lotus; tens of smaller +temples, shrines, obo, open altars, towers for astrology and the +grey city of the Lamas consisting of single-storied houses and +yurtas, where about 60,000 monks of all ages and ranks dwell; +schools, sacred archives and libraries, the houses of Bandi and the +inns for the honored guests from China, Tibet, and the lands of the +Buriat and Kalmuck. + +Down below the monastery is the foreign settlement where the +Russian, foreign and richest Chinese merchants live and where the +multi-colored and crowded oriental bazaar carries forward its +bustling life. A kilometre away the greyish enclosure of Maimachen +surrounds the remaining Chinese trading establishments, while +farther on one sees a long row of Russian private houses, a +hospital, church, prison and, last of all, the awkward four-storied +red brick building that was formerly the Russian Consulate. + +We were already within a short distance of the monastery, when I +noticed several Mongol soldiers in the mouth of a ravine nearby, +dragging back and concealing in the ravine three dead bodies. + +"What are they doing?" I asked. + +The Cossacks only smiled without answering. Suddenly they +straightened up with a sharp salute. Out of the ravine came a +small, stocky Mongolian pony with a short man in the saddle. As he +passed us, I noticed the epaulets of a colonel and the green cap +with a visor. He examined me with cold, colorless eyes from under +dense brows. As he went on ahead, he took off his cap and wiped +the perspiration from his bald head. My eyes were struck by the +strange undulating line of his skull. It was the man "with the +head like a saddle," against whom I had been warned by the old +fortune teller at the last ourton outside Van Kure! + +"Who is this officer?" I inquired. + +Although he was already quite a distance in front of us, the +Cossacks whispered: "Colonel Sepailoff, Commandant of Urga City." + +Colonel Sepailoff, the darkest person on the canvas of Mongolian +events! Formerly a mechanician, afterwards a gendarme, he had +gained quick promotion under the Czar's regime. He was always +nervously jerking and wriggling his body and talking ceaselessly, +making most unattractive sounds in his throat and sputtering with +saliva all over his lips, his whole face often contracted with +spasms. He was mad and Baron Ungern twice appointed a commission +of surgeons to examine him and ordered him to rest in the hope he +could rid the man of his evil genius. Undoubtedly Sepailoff was a +sadist. I heard afterwards that he himself executed the condemned +people, joking and singing as he did his work. Dark, terrifying +tales were current about him in Urga. He was a bloodhound, +fastening his victims with the jaws of death. All the glory of the +cruelty of Baron Ungern belonged to Sepailoff. Afterwards Baron +Ungern once told me in Urga that this Sepailoff annoyed him and +that Sepailoff could kill him just as well as others. Baron Ungern +feared Sepailoff, not as a man, but dominated by his own +superstition, because Sepailoff had found in Transbaikalia a witch +doctor who predicted the death of the Baron if he dismissed +Sepailoff. Sepailoff knew no pardon for Bolshevik nor for any one +connected with the Bolsheviki in any way. The reason for his +vengeful spirit was that the Bolsheviki had tortured him in prison +and, after his escape, had killed all his family. He was now +taking his revenge. + +I put up with a Russian firm and was at once visited by my +associates from Uliassutai, who greeted me with great joy because +they had been much exercised about the events in Van Kure and Zain +Shabi. When I had bathed and spruced up, I went out with them on +the street. We entered the bazaar. The whole market was crowded. +To the lively colored groups of men buying, selling and shouting +their wares, the bright streamers of Chinese cloth, the strings of +pearls, the earrings and bracelets gave an air of endless +festivity; while on another side buyers were feeling of live sheep +to see whether they were fat or not, the butcher was cutting great +pieces of mutton from the hanging carcasses and everywhere these +sons of the plain were joking and jesting. The Mongolian women in +their huge coiffures and heavy silver caps like saucers on their +heads were admiring the variegated silk ribbons and long chains of +coral beads; an imposing big Mongol attentively examined a small +herd of splendid horses and bargained with the Mongol zahachine or +owner of the horses; a skinny, quick, black Tibetan, who had come +to Urga to pray to the Living Buddha or, maybe, with a secret +message from the other "God" in Lhasa, squatted and bargained for +an image of the Lotus Buddha carved in agate; in another corner a +big crowd of Mongols and Buriats had collected and surrounded a +Chinese merchant selling finely painted snuff-bottles of glass, +crystal, porcelain, amethyst, jade, agate and nephrite, for one of +which made of a greenish milky nephrite with regular brown veins +running through it and carved with a dragon winding itself around a +bevy of young damsels the merchant was demanding of his Mongol +inquirers ten young oxen; and everywhere Buriats in their long red +coats and small red caps embroidered with gold helped the Tartars +in black overcoats and black velvet caps on the back of their heads +to weave the pattern of this Oriental human tapestry. Lamas formed +the common background for it all, as they wandered about in their +yellow and red robes, with capes picturesquely thrown over their +shoulders and caps of many forms, some like yellow mushrooms, +others like the red Phrygian bonnets or old Greek helmets in red. +They mingled with the crowd, chatting serenely and counting their +rosaries, telling fortunes for those who would hear but chiefly +searching out the rich Mongols whom they could cure or exploit by +fortune telling, predictions or other mysteries of a city of 60,000 +Lamas. Simultaneously religious and political espionage was being +carried out. Just at this time many Mongols were arriving from +Inner Mongolia and they were continuously surrounded by an +invisible but numerous network of watching Lamas. Over the +buildings around floated the Russian, Chinese and Mongolian +national flags with a single one of the Stars and Stripes above a +small shop in the market; while over the nearby tents and yurtas +streamed the ribbons, the squares, the circles and triangles of the +princes and private persons afflicted or dying from smallpox and +leprosy. All were mingled and mixed in one bright mass strongly +lighted by the sun. Occasionally one saw the soldiers of Baron +Ungern rushing about in long blue coats; Mongols and Tibetans in +red coats with yellow epaulets bearing the swastika of Jenghiz Khan +and the initials of the Living Buddha; and Chinese soldiers from +their detachment in the Mongolian army. After the defeat of the +Chinese army two thousand of these braves petitioned the Living +Buddha to enlist them in his legions, swearing fealty and faith to +him. They were accepted and formed into two regiments bearing the +old Chinese silver dragons on their caps and shoulders. + +As we crossed this market, from around a corner came a big motor +car with the roar of a siren. There was Baron Ungern in the yellow +silk Mongolian coat with a blue girdle. He was going very fast but +recognized me at once, stopping and getting out to invite me to go +with him to his yurta. The Baron lived in a small, simply arranged +yurta, set up in the courtyard of a Chinese hong. He had his +headquarters in two other yurtas nearby, while his servants +occupied one of the Chinese fang-tzu. When I reminded him of his +promise to help me to reach the open ports, the General looked at +me with his bright eyes and spoke in French: + +"My work here is coming to an end. In nine days I shall begin the +war with the Bolsheviki and shall go into the Transbaikal. I beg +that you will spend this time here. For many years I have lived +without civilized society. I am alone with my thoughts and I would +like to have you know them, speaking with me not as the 'bloody mad +Baron,' as my enemies call me, nor as the 'severe grandfather,' +which my officers and soldiers call me, but as an ordinary man who +has sought much and has suffered even more." + +The Baron reflected for some minutes and then continued: + +"I have thought about the further trip of your group and I shall +arrange everything for you, but I ask you to remain here these nine +days." + +What was I to do? I agreed. The Baron shook my hand warmly and +ordered tea. + + +CHAPTER XXXVI + +A SON OF CRUSADERS AND PRIVATEERS + + +"Tell me about yourself and your trip," he urged. In response I +related all that I thought would interest him and he appeared quite +excited over my tale. + +"Now I shall tell you about myself, who and what I am! My name is +surrounded with such hate and fear that no one can judge what is +the truth and what is false, what is history and what myth. Some +time you will write about it, remembering your trip through +Mongolia and your sojourn at the yurta of the 'bloody General.'" + +He shut his eyes, smoking as he spoke, and tumbling out his +sentences without finishing them as though some one would prevent +him from phrasing them. + +"The family of Ungern von Sternberg is an old family, a mixture of +Germans with Hungarians--Huns from the time of Attila. My warlike +ancestors took part in all the European struggles. They +participated in the Crusades and one Ungern was killed under the +walls of Jerusalem, fighting under Richard Coeur de Lion. Even the +tragic Crusade of the Children was marked by the death of Ralph +Ungern, eleven years old. When the boldest warriors of the country +were despatched to the eastern border of the German Empire against +the Slavs in the twelfth century, my ancestor Arthur was among +them, Baron Halsa Ungern Sternberg. Here these border knights +formed the order of Monk Knights or Teutons, which with fire and +sword spread Christianity among the pagan Lithuanians, Esthonians, +Latvians and Slavs. Since then the Teuton Order of Knights has +always had among its members representatives of our family. When +the Teuton Order perished in the Grunwald under the swords of the +Polish and Lithuanian troops, two Barons Ungern von Sternberg were +killed there. Our family was warlike and given to mysticism and +asceticism. + +"During the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries several Barons von +Ungern had their castles in the lands of Latvia and Esthonia. Many +legends and tales lived after them. Heinrich Ungern von Sternberg, +called 'Ax,' was a wandering knight. The tournaments of France, +England, Spain and Italy knew his name and lance, which filled the +hearts of his opponents with fear. He fell at Cadiz 'neath the +sword of a knight who cleft both his helmet and his skull. Baron +Ralph Ungern was a brigand knight between Riga and Reval. Baron +Peter Ungern had his castle on the island of Dago in the Baltic +Sea, where as a privateer he ruled the merchantmen of his day. + +"In the beginning of the eighteenth century there was also a well- +known Baron Wilhelm Ungern, who was referred to as the 'brother of +Satan' because he was an alchemist. My grandfather was a privateer +in the Indian Ocean, taking his tribute from the English traders +whose warships could not catch him for several years. At last he +was captured and handed to the Russian Consul, who transported him +to Russia where he was sentenced to deportation to the Transbaikal. +I am also a naval officer but the Russo-Japanese War forced me to +leave my regular profession to join and fight with the Zabaikal +Cossacks. I have spent all my life in war or in the study and +learning of Buddhism. My grandfather brought Buddhism to us from +India and my father and I accepted and professed it. In +Transbaikalia I tried to form the order of Military Buddhists for +an uncompromising fight against the depravity of revolution." + +He fell into silence and began drinking cup after cup of tea as +strong and black as coffee. + +"Depravity of revolution! . . . Has anyone ever thought of it +besides the French philosopher, Bergson, and the most learned Tashi +Lama in Tibet?" + +The grandson of the privateer, quoting scientific theories, works, +the names of scientists and writers, the Holy Bible and Buddhist +books, mixing together French, German, Russian and English, +continued: + +"In the Buddhistic and ancient Christian books we read stern +predictions about the time when the war between the good and evil +spirits must begin. Then there must come the unknown 'Curse' which +will conquer the world, blot out culture, kill morality and destroy +all the people. Its weapon is revolution. During every revolution +the previously experienced intellect-creator will be replaced by +the new rough force of the destroyer. He will place and hold in +the first rank the lower instincts and desires. Man will be +farther removed from the divine and the spiritual. The Great War +proved that humanity must progress upward toward higher ideals; but +then appeared that Curse which was seen and felt by Christ, the +Apostle John, Buddha, the first Christian martyrs, Dante, Leonardo +da Vinci, Goethe and Dostoyevsky. It appeared, turned back the +wheel of progress and blocked our road to the Divinity. Revolution +is an infectious disease and Europe making the treaty with Moscow +deceived itself and the other parts of the world. The Great Spirit +put at the threshold of our lives Karma, who knows neither anger +nor pardon. He will reckon the account, whose total will be +famine, destruction, the death of culture, of glory, of honor and +of spirit, the death of states and the death of peoples. I see +already this horror, this dark, mad destruction of humanity." + +The door of the yurta suddenly swung open and an adjutant snapped +into a position of attention and salute. + +"Why do you enter a room by force?" the General exclaimed in anger. + +"Your Excellency, our outpost on the border has caught a Bolshevik +reconnaissance party and brought them here." + +The Baron arose. His eyes sparkled and his face contracted with +spasms. + +"Bring them in front of my yurta!" he ordered. + +All was forgotten--the inspired speech, the penetrating voice--all +were sunk in the austere order of the severe commander. The Baron +put on his cap, caught up the bamboo tashur which he always carried +with him and rushed from the yurta. I followed him out. There in +front of the yurta stood six Red soldiers surrounded by the +Cossacks. + +The Baron stopped and glared sharply at them for several minutes. +In his face one could see the strong play of his thoughts. +Afterwards he turned away from them, sat down on the doorstep of +the Chinese house and for a long time was buried in thought. Then +he rose, walked over to them and, with an evident show of +decisiveness in his movements, touched all the prisoners on the +shoulder with his tashur and said: "You to the left and you to the +right!" as he divided the squad into two sections, four on the +right and two on the left. + +"Search those two! They must be commissars!" commanded the Baron +and, turning to the other four, asked: "Are you peasants mobilized +by the Bolsheviki?" + +"Just so, Your Excellency!" cried the frightened soldiers. + +"Go to the Commandant and tell him that I have ordered you to be +enlisted in my troops!" + +On the two to the left they found passports of Commissars of the +Communist Political Department. The General knitted his brows and +slowly pronounced the following: + +"Beat them to death with sticks!" + +He turned and entered the yurta. After this our conversation did +not flow readily and so I left the Baron to himself. + +After dinner in the Russian firm where I was staying some of +Ungern's officers came in. We were chatting animatedly when +suddenly we heard the horn of an automobile, which instantly threw +the officers into silence. + +"The General is passing somewhere near," one of them remarked in a +strangely altered voice. + +Our interrupted conversation was soon resumed but not for long. +The clerk of the firm came running into the room and exclaimed: +"The Baron!" + +He entered the door but stopped on the threshold. The lamps had +not yet been lighted and it was getting dark inside, but the Baron +instantly recognized us all, approached and kissed the hand of the +hostess, greeted everyone very cordially and, accepting the cup of +tea offered him, drew up to the table to drink. Soon he spoke: + +"I want to steal your guest," he said to the hostess and then, +turning to me, asked: "Do you want to go for a motor ride? I +shall show you the city and the environs." + +Donning my coat, I followed my established custom and slipped my +revolver into it, at which the Baron laughed. + +"Leave that trash behind! Here you are in safety. Besides you +must remember the prediction of Narabanchi Hutuktu that Fortune +will ever be with you." + +"All right," I answered, also with a laugh. "I remember very well +this prediction. Only I do not know what the Hutuktu thinks +'Fortune' means for me. Maybe it is death like the rest after my +hard, long trip, and I must confess that I prefer to travel farther +and am not ready to die." + +We went out to the gate where the big Fiat stood with its intruding +great lights. The chauffeur officer sat at the wheel like a statue +and remained at salute all the time we were entering and seating +ourselves. + +"To the wireless station!" commanded the Baron. + +We veritably leapt forward. The city swarmed, as earlier, with the +Oriental throng, but its appearance now was even more strange and +miraculous. In among the noisy crowd Mongol, Buriat and Tibetan +riders threaded swiftly; caravans of camels solemnly raised their +heads as we passed; the wooden wheels of the Mongol carts screamed +in pain; and all was illumined by splendid great arc lights from +the electric station which Baron Ungern had ordered erected +immediately after the capture of Urga, together with a telephone +system and wireless station. He also ordered his men to clean and +disinfect the city which had probably not felt the broom since the +days of Jenghiz Khan. He arranged an auto-bus traffic between +different parts of the city; built bridges over the Tola and +Orkhon; published a newspaper; arranged a veterinary laboratory and +hospitals; re-opened the schools; protected commerce, mercilessly +hanging Russian and Mongolian soldiers for pillaging Chinese firms. + +In one of these cases his Commandant arrested two Cossacks and a +Mongol soldier who had stolen brandy from one of the Chinese shops +and brought them before him. He immediately bundled them all into +his car, drove off to the shop, delivered the brandy back to the +proprietor and as promptly ordered the Mongol to hang one of the +Russians to the big gate of the compound. With this one swung he +commanded: "Now hang the other!" and this had only just been +accomplished when he turned to the Commandant and ordered him to +hang the Mongol beside the other two. That seemed expeditious and +just enough until the Chinese proprietor came in dire distress to +the Baron and plead with him: + +"General Baron! General Baron! Please take those men down from my +gateway, for no one will enter my shop!" + +After the commercial quarter was flashed past our eyes, we entered +the Russian settlement across a small river. Several Russian +soldiers and four very spruce-looking Mongolian women stood on the +bridge as we passed. The soldiers snapped to salute like immobile +statues and fixed their eyes on the severe face of their Commander. +The women first began to run and shift about and then, infected by +the discipline and order of events, swung their hands up to salute +and stood as immobile as their northern swains. The Baron looked +at me and laughed: + +"You see the discipline! Even the Mongolian women salute me." + +Soon we were out on the plain with the car going like an arrow, +with the wind whistling and tossing the folds of our coats and +caps. But Baron Ungern, sitting with closed eyes, repeated: +"Faster! Faster!" For a long time we were both silent. + +"And yesterday I beat my adjutant for rushing into my yurta and +interrupting my story," he said. + +"You can finish it now," I answered. + +"And are you not bored by it? Well, there isn't much left and this +happens to be the most interesting. I was telling you that I +wanted to found an order of military Buddhists in Russia. For +what? For the protection of the processes of evolution of humanity +and for the struggle against revolution, because I am certain that +evolution leads to the Divinity and revolution to bestiality. But +I worked in Russia! In Russia, where the peasants are rough, +untutored, wild and constantly angry, hating everybody and +everything without understanding why. They are suspicious and +materialistic, having no sacred ideals. Russian intelligents live +among imaginary ideals without realities. They have a strong +capacity for criticising everything but they lack creative power. +Also they have no will power, only the capacity for talking and +talking. With the peasants, they cannot like anything or anybody. +Their love and feelings are imaginary. Their thoughts and +sentiments pass without trace like futile words. My companions, +therefore, soon began to violate the regulations of the Order. +Then I introduced the condition of celibacy, the entire negation of +woman, of the comforts of life, of superfluities, according to the +teachings of the Yellow Faith; and, in order that the Russian might +be able to live down his physical nature, I introduced the +limitless use of alcohol, hasheesh and opium. Now for alcohol I +hang my officers and soldiers; then we drank to the 'white fever,' +delirium tremens. I could not organize the Order but I gathered +round me and developed three hundred men wholly bold and entirely +ferocious. Afterward they were heroes in the war with Germany and +later in the fight against the Bolsheviki, but now only a few +remain." + +"The wireless, Excellency!" reported the chauffeur. + +"Turn in there!" ordered the General. + +On the top of a flat hill stood the big, powerful radio station +which had been partially destroyed by the retreating Chinese but +reconstructed by the engineers of Baron Ungern. The General +perused the telegrams and handed them to me. They were from +Moscow, Chita, Vladivostok and Peking. On a separate yellow sheet +were the code messages, which the Baron slipped into his pocket as +he said to me: + +"They are from my agents, who are stationed in Chita, Irkutsk, +Harbin and Vladivostok. They are all Jews, very skilled and very +bold men, friends of mine all. I have also one Jewish officer, +Vulfovitch, who commands my right flank. He is as ferocious as +Satan but clever and brave. . . . Now we shall fly into space." + +Once more we rushed away, sinking into the darkness of night. It +was a wild ride. The car bounded over small stones and ditches, +even taking narrow streamlets, as the skilled chauffeur only seemed +to guide it round the larger rocks. On the plain, as we sped by, I +noticed several times small bright flashes of fire which lasted but +for a second and then were extinguished. + +"The eyes of wolves," smiled my companion. "We have fed them to +satiety from the flesh of ourselves and our enemies!" he quietly +interpolated, as he turned to continue his confession of faith. + +"During the War we saw the gradual corruption of the Russian army +and foresaw the treachery of Russia to the Allies as well as the +approaching danger of revolution. To counteract this latter a plan +was formed to join together all the Mongolian peoples which had not +forgotten their ancient faiths and customs into one Asiatic State, +consisting of autonomous tribal units, under the moral and +legislative leadership of China, the country of loftiest and most +ancient culture. Into this State must come the Chinese, Mongols, +Tibetans, Afghans, the Mongol tribes of Turkestan, Tartars, +Buriats, Kirghiz and Kalmucks. This State must be strong, +physically and morally, and must erect a barrier against revolution +and carefully preserve its own spirit, philosophy and individual +policy. If humanity, mad and corrupted, continues to threaten the +Divine Spirit in mankind, to spread blood and to obstruct moral +development, the Asiatic State must terminate this movement +decisively and establish a permanent, firm peace. This propaganda +even during the War made splendid progress among the Turkomans, +Kirghiz, Buriats and Mongols. . . . "Stop!" suddenly shouted the +Baron. + +The car pulled up with a jerk. The General jumped out and called +me to follow. We started walking over the prairie and the Baron +kept bending down all the time as though he were looking for +something on the ground. + +"Ah!" he murmured at last, "He has gone away. . . ." + +I looked at him in amazement. + +"A rich Mongol formerly had his yurta here. He was the outfitter +for the Russian merchant, Noskoff. Noskoff was a ferocious man as +shown by the name the Mongols gave him--'Satan.' He used to have +his Mongol debtors beaten or imprisoned through the instrumentality +of the Chinese authorities. He ruined this Mongol, who lost +everything and escaped to a place thirty miles away; but Noskoff +found him there, took all that he had left of cattle and horses and +left the Mongol and his family to die of hunger. When I captured +Urga, this Mongol appeared and brought with him thirty other Mongol +families similarly ruined by Noskoff. They demanded his death. . . . +So I hung 'Satan' . . ." + +Anew the motor car was rushing along, sweeping a great circle on +the prairie, and anew Baron Ungern with his sharp, nervous voice +carried his thoughts round the whole circumference of Asian life. + +"Russia turned traitor to France, England and America, signed the +Brest-Litovsk Treaty and ushered in a reign of chaos. We then +decided to mobilize Asia against Germany. Our envoys penetrated +Mongolia, Tibet, Turkestan and China. At this time the Bolsheviki +began to kill all the Russian officers and we were forced to open +civil war against them, giving up our Pan-Asiatic plans; but we +hope later to awake all Asia and with their help to bring peace and +God back to earth. I want to feel that I have helped this idea by +the liberation of Mongolia." + +He became silent and thought for a moment. + +"But some of my associates in the movement do not like me because +of my atrocities and severity," he remarked in a sad voice. "They +cannot understand as yet that we are not fighting a political party +but a sect of murderers of all contemporary spiritual culture. Why +do the Italians execute the 'Black Hand' gang? Why are the +Americans electrocuting anarchistic bomb throwers? and I am not +allowed to rid the world of those who would kill the soul of the +people? I, a Teuton, descendant of crusaders and privateers, I +recognize only death for murderers! . . . Return!" he commanded +the chauffeur. + +An hour and a half later we saw the electric lights of Urga. + + +CHAPTER XXXVII + +THE CAMP OF MARTYRS + + +Near the entrance to the town, a motor car stood before a small +house. + +"What does that mean?" exclaimed the Baron. "Go over there!" + +Our car drew up beside the other. The house door opened sharply, +several officers rushed out and tried to hide. + +"Stand!" commanded the General. "Go back inside." They obeyed and +he entered after them, leaning on his tashur. As the door remained +open, I could see and hear everything. + +"Woe to them!" whispered the chauffeur. "Our officers knew that +the Baron had gone out of the town with me, which means always a +long journey, and must have decided to have a good time. He will +order them beaten to death with sticks." + +I could see the end of the table covered with bottles and tinned +things. At the side two young women were seated, who sprang up at +the appearance of the General. I could hear the hoarse voice of +Baron Ungern pronouncing sharp, short, stern phrases. + +"Your native land is perishing. . . . The shame of it is upon all +you Russians . . . and you cannot understand it . . . nor feel +it. . . . You need wine and women. . . . Scoundrels! Brutes! . . . +One hundred fifty tashur for every man of you." + +The voice fell to a whisper. + +"And you, Mesdames, do you not realize the ruin of your people? +No? For you it is of no moment. And have you no feeling for your +husbands at the front who may even now be killed? You are not +women. . . . I honor woman, who feels more deeply and strongly +than man; but you are not women! . . . Listen to me, Mesdames. +Once more and I will hang you. . . ." + +He came back to the car and himself sounded the horn several times. +Immediately Mongol horsemen galloped up. + +"Take these men to the Commandant. I will send my orders later." + +On the way to the Baron's yurta we were silent. He was excited and +breathed heavily, lighting cigarette after cigarette and throwing +them aside after but a single puff or two. + +"Take supper with me," he proposed. + +He also invited his Chief of Staff, a very retiring, oppressed but +splendidly educated man. The servants spread a Chinese hot course +for us followed by cold meat and fruit compote from California with +the inevitable tea. We ate with chopsticks. The Baron was greatly +distraught. + +Very cautiously I began speaking of the offending officers and +tried to justify their actions by the extremely trying +circumstances under which they were living. + +"They are rotten through and through, demoralized, sunk into the +depths," murmured the General. + +The Chief of Staff helped me out and at last the Baron directed him +to telephone the Commandant to release these gentlemen. + +The following day I spent with my friends, walking a great deal +about the streets and watching their busy life. The great energy +of the Baron demanded constant nervous activity from himself and +every one round him. He was everywhere, seeing everything but +never, interfering with the work of his subordinate administrators. +Every one was at work. + +In the evening I was invited by the Chief of Staff to his quarters, +where I met many intelligent officers. I related again the story +of my trip and we were all chatting along animatedly when suddenly +Colonel Sepailoff entered, singing to himself. All the others at +once became silent and one by one under various pretexts they +slipped out. He handed our host some papers and, turning to us, +said: + +"I shall send you for supper a splendid fish pie and some hot +tomato soup." + +As he left, my host clasped his head in desperation and said: + +"With such scum of the earth are we now forced after this +revolution to work!" + +A few minutes later a soldier from Sepailoff brought us a tureen +full of soup and the fish pie. As the soldier bent over the table +to set the dishes down, the Chief motioned me with his eyes and +slipped to me the words: "Notice his face." + +When the man went out, my host sat attentively listening until the +sounds of the man's steps ceased. + +"He is Sepailoff's executioner who hangs and strangles the +unfortunate condemned ones." + +Then, to my amazement, he began to pour out the soup on the ground +beside the brazier and, going out of the yurta, threw the pie over +the fence. + +"It is Sepailoff's feast and, though it may be very tasty, it may +also be poison. In Sepailoff's house it is dangerous to eat or +drink anything." + +Distinctly oppressed by these doings, I returned to my house. My +host was not yet asleep and met me with a frightened look. My +friends were also there. + +"God be thanked!" they all exclaimed. "Has nothing happened to +you?" + +"What is the matter?" I asked. + +"You see," began the host, "after your departure a soldier came +from Sepailoff and took your luggage, saying that you had sent him +for it; but we knew what it meant--that they would first search it +and afterwards. . . ." + +I at once understood the danger. Sepailoff could place anything he +wanted in my luggage and afterwards accuse me. My old friend, the +agronome, and I started at once for Sepailoff's, where I left him +at the door while I went in and was met by the same soldier who had +brought the supper to us. Sepailoff received me immediately. In +answer to my protest he said that it was a mistake and, asking me +to wait for a moment, went out. I waited five, ten, fifteen +minutes but nobody came. I knocked on the door but no one answered +me. Then I decided to go to Baron Ungern and started for the exit. +The door was locked. Then I tried the other door and found that +also locked. I had been trapped! I wanted at once to whistle to +my friend but just then noticed a telephone on the wall and called +up Baron Ungern. In a few minutes he appeared together with +Sepailoff. + +"What is this?" he asked Sepailoff in a severe, threatening voice; +and, without waiting for an answer, struck him a blow with his +tashur that sent him to the floor. + +We went out and the General ordered my luggage produced. Then he +brought me to his own yurta. + +"Live here, now," he said. "I am very glad of this accident," he +remarked with a smile, "for now I can say all that I want to." + +This drew from me the question: + +"May I describe all that I have heard and seen here?" + +He thought a moment before replying: "Give me your notebook." + +I handed him the album with my sketches of the trip and he wrote +therein: "After my death, Baron Ungern." + +"But I am older than you and I shall die before you," I remarked. + +He shut his eyes, bowed his head and whispered: + +"Oh, no! One hundred thirty days yet and it is finished; then . . . +Nirvana! How wearied I am with sorrow, woe and hate!" + +We were silent for a long time. I felt that I had now a mortal +enemy in Colonel Sepailoff and that I should get out of Urga at the +earliest possible moment. It was two o'clock at night. Suddenly +Baron Ungern stood up. + +"Let us go to the great, good Buddha," he said with a countenance +held in deep thought and with eyes aflame, his whole face +contracted by a mournful, bitter smile. He ordered the car +brought. + +Thus lived this camp of martyrs, refugees pursued by events to +their tryst with Death, driven on by the hate and contempt of this +offspring of Teutons and privateers! And he, martyring them, knew +neither day nor night of peace. Fired by impelling, poisonous +thoughts, he tormented himself with the pains of a Titan, knowing +that every day in this shortening chain of one hundred thirty links +brought him nearer to the precipice called "Death." + + +CHAPTER XXXVIII + +BEFORE THE FACE OF BUDDHA + + +As we came to the monastery we left the automobile and dipped into +the labyrinth of narrow alleyways until at last we were before the +greatest temple of Urga with the Tibetan walls and windows and its +pretentious Chinese roof. A single lantern burned at the entrance. +The heavy gate with the bronze and iron trimmings was shut. When +the General struck the big brass gong hanging by the gate, +frightened monks began running up from all directions and, seeing +the "General Baron," fell to the earth in fear of raising their +heads. + +"Get up," said the Baron, "and let us into the Temple!" + +The inside was like that of all Lama temples, the same multi- +colored flags with the prayers, symbolic signs and the images of +holy saints; the big bands of silk cloth hanging from the ceiling; +the images of the gods and goddesses. On both sides of the +approach to the altar were the low red benches for the Lamas and +choir. On the altar small lamps threw their rays on the gold and +silver vessels and candlesticks. Behind it hung a heavy yellow +silk curtain with Tibetan inscriptions. The Lamas drew the curtain +aside. Out of the dim light from the flickering lamps gradually +appeared the great gilded statue of Buddha seated in the Golden +Lotus. The face of the god was indifferent and calm with only a +soft gleam of light animating it. On either side he was guarded by +many thousands of lesser Buddhas brought by the faithful as +offerings in prayer. The Baron struck the gong to attract Great +Buddha's attention to his prayer and threw a handful of coins into +the large bronze bowl. And then this scion of crusaders who had +read all the philosophers of the West, closed his eyes, placed his +hands together before his face and prayed. I noticed a black +rosary on his left wrist. He prayed about ten minutes. Afterwards +he led me to the other end of the monastery and, during our +passage, said to me: + +"I do not like this temple. It is new, erected by the Lamas when +the Living Buddha became blind. I do not find on the face of the +golden Buddha either tears, hopes, distress or thanks of the +people. They have not yet had time to leave these traces on the +face of the god. We shall go now to the old Shrine of Prophecies." + +This was a small building, blackened with age and resembling a +tower with a plain round roof. The doors stood open. At both +sides of the door were prayer wheels ready to be spun; over it a +slab of copper with the signs of the zodiac. Inside two monks, who +were intoning the sacred sutras, did not lift their eyes as we +entered. The General approached them and said: + +"Cast the dice for the number of my days!" + +The priests brought two bowls with many dice therein and rolled +them out on their low table. The Baron looked and reckoned with +them the sum before he spoke: + +"One hundred thirty! Again one hundred thirty!" + +Approaching the altar carrying an ancient stone statue of Buddha +brought all the way from India, he again prayed. As day dawned, we +wandered out through the monastery, visited all the temples and +shrines, the museum of the medical school, the astrological tower +and then the court where the Bandi and young Lamas have their daily +morning wrestling exercises. In other places the Lamas were +practising with the bow and arrow. Some of the higher Lamas +feasted us with hot mutton, tea and wild onions. After we returned +to the yurta I tried to sleep but in vain. Too many different +questions were troubling me. "Where am I? In what epoch am I +living?" I knew not but I dimly felt the unseen touch of some +great idea, some enormous plan, some indescribable human woe. + +After our noon meal the General said he wanted to introduce me to +the Living Buddha. It is so difficult to secure audience with the +Living Buddha that I was very glad to have this opportunity offered +me. Our auto soon drew up at the gate of the red and white striped +wall surrounding the palace of the god. Two hundred Lamas in +yellow and red robes rushed to greet the arriving "Chiang Chun," +General, with the low-toned, respectful whisper "Khan! God of +War!" As a regiment of formal ushers they led us to a spacious +great hall softened by its semi-darkness. Heavy carved doors +opened to the interior parts of the palace. In the depths of the +hall stood a dais with the throne covered with yellow silk +cushions. The back of the throne was red inside a gold framing; at +either side stood yellow silk screens set in highly ornamented +frames of black Chinese wood; while against the walls at either +side of the throne stood glass cases filled with varied objects +from China, Japan, India and Russia. I noticed also among them a +pair of exquisite Marquis and Marquises in the fine porcelain of +Sevres. Before the throne stood a long, low table at which eight +noble Mongols were seated, their chairman, a highly esteemed old +man with a clever, energetic face and with large penetrating eyes. +His appearance reminded me of the authentic wooden images of the +Buddhist holymen with eyes of precious stones which I saw at the +Tokyo Imperial Museum in the department devoted to Buddhism, where +the Japanese show the ancient statues of Amida, Daunichi-Buddha, +the Goddess Kwannon and the jolly old Hotei. + +This man was the Hutuktu Jahantsi, Chairman of the Mongolian +Council of Ministers, and honored and revered far beyond the +bournes of Mongolia. The others were the Ministers--Khans and the +Highest Princes of Khalkha. Jahantsi Hutuktu invited Baron Ungern +to the place at his side, while they brought in a European chair +for me. Baron Ungern announced to the Council of Ministers through +an interpreter that he would leave Mongolia in a few days and urged +them to protect the freedom won for the lands inhabited by the +successors of Jenghiz Khan, whose soul still lives and calls upon +the Mongols to become anew a powerful people and reunite again into +one great Mid-Asiatic State all the Asian kingdoms he had ruled. + +The General rose and all the others followed him. He took leave of +each one separately and sternly. Only before Jahantsi Lama he bent +low while the Hutuktu placed his hands on the Baron's head and +blessed him. From the Council Chamber we passed at once to the +Russian style house which is the personal dwelling of the Living +Buddha. The house was wholly surrounded by a crowd of red and +yellow Lamas; servants, councilors of Bogdo, officials, fortune +tellers, doctors and favorites. From the front entrance stretched +a long red rope whose outer end was thrown over the wall beside the +gate. Crowds of pilgrims crawling up on their knees touch this end +of the rope outside the gate and hand the monk a silken hatyk or a +bit of silver. This touching of the rope whose inner end is in the +hand of the Bogdo establishes direct communication with the holy, +incarnated Living God. A current of blessing is supposed to flow +through this cable of camel's wool and horse hair. Any Mongol who +has touched the mystic rope receives and wears about his neck a red +band as the sign of his accomplished pilgrimage. + +I had heard very much about the Bogdo Khan before this opportunity +to see him. I had heard of his love of alcohol, which had brought +on blindness, about his leaning toward exterior western culture and +about his wife drinking deep with him and receiving in his name +numerous delegations and envoys. + +In the room which the Bogdo used as his private study, where two +Lama secretaries watched day and night over the chest that +contained his great seals, there was the severest simplicity. On a +low, plain, Chinese lacquered table lay his writing implements, a +case of seals given by the Chinese Government and by the Dalai Lama +and wrapped in a cloth of yellow silk. Nearby was a low easy +chair, a bronze brazier with an iron stovepipe leading up from it; +on the walls were the signs of the swastika, Tibetan and Mongolian +inscriptions; behind the easy chair a small altar with a golden +statue of Buddha before which two tallow lamps were burning; the +floor was covered with a thick yellow carpet. + +When we entered, only the two Lama secretaries were there, for the +Living Buddha was in the small private shrine in an adjoining +chamber, where no one is allowed to enter save the Bogdo Khan +himself and one Lama, Kanpo-Gelong, who cares for the temple +arrangements and assists the Living Buddha during his prayers of +solitude. The secretary told us that the Bogdo had been greatly +excited this morning. At noon he had entered his shrine. For a +long time the voice of the head of the Yellow Faith was heard in +earnest prayer and after his another unknown voice came clearly +forth. In the shrine had taken place a conversation between the +Buddha on earth and the Buddha of heaven--thus the Lamas phrased it +to us. + +"Let us wait a little," the Baron proposed. "Perhaps he will soon +come out." + +As we waited the General began telling me about Jahantsi Lama, +saying that, when Jahantsi is calm, he is an ordinary man but, when +he is disturbed and thinks very deeply, a nimbus appears about his +head. + +After half an hour the Lama secretaries suddenly showed signs of +deep fear and began listening closely by the entrance to the +shrine. Shortly they fell on their faces on the ground. The door +slowly opened and there entered the Emperor of Mongolia, the Living +Buddha, His Holiness Bogdo Djebtsung Damba Hutuktu, Khan of Outer +Mongolia. He was a stout old man with a heavy shaven face +resembling those of the Cardinals of Rome. He was dressed in the +yellow silken Mongolian coat with a black binding. The eyes of the +blind man stood widely open. Fear and amazement were pictured in +them. He lowered himself heavily into the easy chair and +whispered: "Write!" + +A secretary immediately took paper and a Chinese pen as the Bogdo +began to dictate his vision, very complicated and far from clear. +He finished with the following words: + +"This I, Bogdo Hutuktu Khan, saw, speaking with the great wise +Buddha, surrounded by the good and evil spirits. Wise Lamas, +Hutuktus, Kanpos, Marambas and Holy Gheghens, give the answer to my +vision!" + +As he finished, he wiped the perspiration from his head and asked +who were present. + +"Khan Chiang Chin Baron Ungern and a stranger," one of the +secretaries answered on his knees. + +The General presented me to the Bogdo, who bowed his head as a sign +of greeting. They began speaking together in low tones. Through +the open door I saw a part of the shrine. I made out a big table +with a heap of books on it, some open and others lying on the floor +below; a brazier with the red charcoal in it; a basket containing +the shoulder blades and entrails of sheep for telling fortunes. +Soon the Baron rose and bowed before the Bogdo. The Tibetan placed +his hands on the Baron's head and whispered a prayer. Then he took +from his own neck a heavy ikon and hung it around that of the +Baron. + +"You will not die but you will be incarnated in the highest form of +being. Remember that, Incarnated God of War, Khan of grateful +Mongolia!" I understood that the Living Buddha blessed the "Bloody +General" before death. + + +During the next two days I had the opportunity to visit the Living +Buddha three times together with a friend of the Bogdo, the Buriat +Prince Djam Bolon. I shall describe these visits in Part IV. + +Baron Ungern organized the trip for me and my party to the shore of +the Pacific. We were to go on camels to northern Manchuria, +because there it was easy to avoid cavilling with the Chinese +authorities so badly oriented in the international relationship +with Poland. Having sent a letter from Uliassutai to the French +Legation at Peking and bearing with me a letter from the Chinese +Chamber of Commerce, expressing thanks for the saving of Uliassutai +from a pogrom, I intended to make for the nearest station on the +Chinese Eastern Railway and from there proceed to Peking. The +Danish merchant E. V. Olufsen was to have traveled out with me and +also a learned Lama Turgut, who was headed for China. + +Never shall I forget the night of May 19th to 20th of 1921! After +dinner Baron Ungern proposed that we go to the yurta of Djam Bolon, +whose acquaintance I had made on the first day after my arrival in +Urga. His yurta was placed on a raised wooden platform in a +compound located behind the Russian settlement. Two Buriat +officers met us and took us in. Djam Bolon was a man of middle +age, tall and thin with an unusually long face. Before the Great +War he had been a simple shepherd but had fought together with +Baron Ungern on the German front and afterwards against the +Bolsheviki. He was a Grand Duke of the Buriats, the successor of +former Buriat kings who had been dethroned by the Russian +Government after their attempt to establish the Independence of the +Buriat people. The servants brought us dishes with nuts, raisins, +dates and cheese and served us tea. + +"This is the last night, Djam Bolon!" said Baron Ungern. "You +promised me . . ." + +"I remember," answered the Buriat, "all is ready." + +For a long time I listened to their reminiscences about former +battles and friends who had been lost. The clock pointed to +midnight when Djam Bolon got up and went out of the yurta. + +"I want to have my fortune told once more," said Baron Ungern, as +though he were justifying himself. "For the good of our cause it +is too early for me to die. . . ." + +Djam Bolon came back with a little woman of middle years, who +squatted down eastern style before the brazier, bowed low and began +to stare at Baron Ungern. Her face was whiter, narrower and +thinner than that of a Mongol woman. Her eyes were black and +sharp. Her dress resembled that of a gypsy woman. Afterwards I +learned that she was a famous fortune teller and prophet among the +Buriats, the daughter of a gypsy woman and a Buriat. She drew a +small bag very slowly from her girdle, took from it some small bird +bones and a handful of dry grass. She began whispering at +intervals unintelligible words, as she threw occasional handfuls of +the grass into the fire, which gradually filled the tent with a +soft fragrance. I felt a distinct palpitation of my heart and a +swimming in my head. After the fortune teller had burned all her +grass, she placed the bird bones on the charcoal and turned them +over again and again with a small pair of bronze pincers. As the +bones blackened, she began to examine them and then suddenly her +face took on an expression of fear and pain. She nervously tore +off the kerchief which bound her head and, contracted with +convulsions, began snapping out short, sharp phrases. + +"I see . . . I see the God of War. . . . His life runs out . . . +horribly. . . . After it a shadow . . . black like the night. . . . +Shadow. . . . One hundred thirty steps remain. . . . Beyond +darkness. . . . Nothing . . . I see nothing. . . . The God of War +has disappeared. . . ." + +Baron Ungern dropped his head. The woman fell over on her back +with her arms stretched out. She had fainted, but it seemed to me +that I noticed once a bright pupil of one of her eyes showing from +under the closed lashes. Two Buriats carried out the lifeless +form, after which a long silence reigned in the yurta of the Buriat +Prince. Baron Ungern finally got up and began to walk around the +brazier, whispering to himself. Afterwards he stopped and began +speaking rapidly: + +"I shall die! I shall die! . . . but no matter, no matter. . . . +The cause has been launched and will not die. . . . I know the +roads this cause will travel. The tribes of Jenghiz Khan's +successors are awakened. Nobody shall extinguish the fire in the +heart of the Mongols! In Asia there will be a great State from the +Pacific and Indian Oceans to the shore of the Volga. The wise +religion of Buddha shall run to the north and the west. It will be +the victory of the spirit. A conqueror and leader will appear +stronger and more stalwart than Jenghiz Khan and Ugadai. He will +be more clever and more merciful than Sultan Baber and he will keep +power in his hands until the happy day when, from his subterranean +capital, shall emerge the King of the World. Why, why shall I not +be in the first ranks of the warriors of Buddhism? Why has Karma +decided so? But so it must be! And Russia must first wash herself +from the insult of revolution, purifying herself with blood and +death; and all people accepting Communism must perish with their +families in order that all their offspring may be rooted out!" + +The Baron raised his hand above his head and shook it, as though he +were giving his orders and bequests to some invisible person. + +Day was dawning. + +"My time has come!" said the General. "In a little while I shall +leave Urga." + +He quickly and firmly shook hands with us and said: + +"Good-bye for all time! I shall die a horrible death but the world +has never seen such a terror and such a sea of blood as it shall +now see. . . ." + +The door of the yurta slammed shut and he was gone. I never saw +him again. + +"I must go also, for I am likewise leaving Urga today." + +"I know it," answered the Prince, "the Baron has left you with me +for some purpose. I will give you a fourth companion, the Mongol +Minister of War. You will accompany him to your yurta. It is +necessary for you. . . ." + +Djam Bolon pronounced this last with an accent on every word. I +did not question him about it, as I was accustomed to the mystery +of this country of the mysteries of good and evil spirits. + + +CHAPTER XXXIX + +"THE MAN WITH A HEAD LIKE A SADDLE" + + +After drinking tea at Djam Bolon's yurta I rode back to my quarters +and packed my few belongings. The Lama Turgut was already there. + +"The Minister of War will travel with us," he whispered. "It is +necessary." + +"All right," I answered, and rode off to Olufsen to summon him. +But Olufsen unexpectedly announced that he was forced to spend some +few days more in Urga--a fatal decision for him, for a month later +he was reported killed by Sepailoff who remained as Commandant of +the city after Baron Ungern's departure. The War Minister, a +stout, young Mongol, joined our caravan. When we had gone about +six miles from the city, we saw an automobile coming up behind us. +The Lama shrunk up inside his coat and looked at me with fear. I +felt the now familiar atmosphere of danger and so opened my holster +and threw over the safety catch of my revolver. Soon the motor +stopped alongside our caravan. In it sat Sepailoff with a smiling +face and beside him his two executioners, Chestiakoff and Jdanoff. +Sepailoff greeted us very warmly and asked: + +"You are changing your horses in Khazahuduk? Does the road cross +that pass ahead? I don't know the way and must overtake an envoy +who went there." + +The Minister of War answered that we would be in Khazahuduk that +evening and gave Sepailoff directions as to the road. The motor +rushed away and, when it had topped the pass, he ordered one of the +Mongols to gallop forward to see whether it had not stopped +somewhere near the other side. The Mongol whipped his steed and +sped away. We followed slowly. + +"What is the matter?" I asked. "Please explain!" + +The Minister told me that Djam Bolon yesterday received information +that Sepailoff planned to overtake me on the way and kill me. +Sepailoff suspected that I had stirred up the Baron against him. +Djam Bolon reported the matter to the Baron, who organized this +column for my safety. The returning Mongol reported that the motor +car had gone on out of sight. + +"Now," said the Minister, "we shall take quite another route so +that the Colonel will wait in vain for us at Khazahuduk." + +We turned north at Undur Dobo and at night were in the camp of a +local prince. Here we took leave of our Minister, received +splendid fresh horses and quickly continued our trip to the east, +leaving behind us "the man with the head like a saddle" against +whom I had been warned by the old fortune teller in the vicinity of +Van Kure. + +After twelve days without further adventures we reached the first +railway station on the Chinese Eastern Railway, from where I +traveled in unbelievable luxury to Peking. + + * * * * * * + +Surrounded by the comforts and conveniences of the splendid hotel +at Peking, while shedding all the attributes of traveler, hunter +and warrior, I could not, however, throw off the spell of those +nine days spent in Urga, where I had daily met Baron Ungern, +"Incarnated God of War." The newspapers carrying accounts of the +bloody march of the Baron through Transbaikalia brought the +pictures ever fresh to my mind. Even now, although more than seven +months have elapsed, I cannot forget those nights of madness, +inspiration and hate. + +The predictions are fulfilled. Approximately one hundred thirty +days afterwards Baron Ungern was captured by the Bolsheviki through +the treachery of his officers and, it is reported, was executed at +the end of September. + +Baron R. F. Ungern von Sternberg. . . . Like a bloody storm of +avenging Karma he spread over Central Asia. What did he leave +behind him? The severe order to his soldiers closing with the +words of the Revelations of St. John: + +"Let no one check the revenge against the corrupter and slayer of +the soul of the Russian people. Revolution must be eradicated from +the World. Against it the Revelations of St. John have warned us +thus: 'And the woman was arrayed in purple and scarlet, and decked +with gold and precious stones and pearls, having in her hand a +golden cup full of abominations, even the unclean things of her +fornication, and upon her forehead a name written, MYSTERY, BABYLON +THE GREAT, THE MOTHER OF THE HARLOTS AND OF THE ABOMINATIONS OF THE +EARTH. And I saw the woman drunken with the blood of the saints, +and with the blood of the martyrs of Jesus.'" + +It is a human document, a document of Russian and, perhaps, of +world tragedy. + +But there remained another and more important trace. In the Mongol +yurtas and at the fires of Buriat, Mongol, Djungar, Kirkhiz, +Kalmuck and Tibetan shepherds still speak the legend born of this +son of crusaders and privateers: + +"From the north a white warrior came and called on the Mongols to +break their chains of slavery, which fell upon our freed soil. +This white warrior was the Incarnated Jenghiz Khan and he predicted +the coming of the greatest of all Mongols who will spread the fair +faith of Buddha and the glory and power of the offspring of +Jenghiz, Ugadai and Kublai Khan. So it shall be!" + +Asia is awakened and her sons utter bold words. + +It were well for the peace of the world if they go forth as +disciples of the wise creators, Ugadai and Sultan Baber, rather +than under the spell of the "bad demons" of the destructive +Tamerlane. + + + +Part IV + +THE LIVING BUDDHA + + +CHAPTER XL + +IN THE BLISSFUL GARDEN OF A THOUSAND JOYS + + +In Mongolia, the country of miracles and mysteries, lives the +custodian of all the mysterious and unknown, the Living Buddha, His +Holiness Djebtsung Damba Hutuktu Khan or Bogdo Gheghen, Pontiff of +Ta Kure. He is the incarnation of the never-dying Buddha, the +representative of the unbroken, mysteriously continued line of +spiritual emperors ruling since 1670, concealing in themselves the +ever refining spirit of Buddha Amitabha joined with Chan-ra-zi or +the "Compassionate Spirit of the Mountains." In him is everything, +even the Sun Myth and the fascination of the mysterious peaks of +the Himalayas, tales of the Indian pagoda, the stern majesty of the +Mongolian Conquerors--Emperors of All Asia--and the ancient, hazy +legends of the Chinese sages; immersion in the thoughts of the +Brahmans; the severities of life of the monks of the "Virtuous +Order"; the vengeance of the eternally wandering warriors, the +Olets, with their Khans, Batur Hun Taigi and Gushi; the proud +bequests of Jenghiz and Kublai Khan; the clerical reactionary +psychology of the Lamas; the mystery of Tibetan kings beginning +from Srong-Tsang Gampo; and the mercilessness of the Yellow Sect of +Paspa. All the hazy history of Asia, of Mongolia, Pamir, +Himalayas, Mesopotamia, Persia and China, surrounds the Living God +of Urga. It is little wonder that his name is honored along the +Volga, in Siberia, Arabia, between the Tigris and Euphrates, in +Indo-China and on the shores of the Arctic Ocean. + +During my stay in Urga I visited the abode of the Living Buddha +several times, spoke with him and observed his life. His favorite +learned Marambas gave me long accounts of him. I saw him reading +horoscopes, I heard his predictions, I looked over his archives of +ancient books and the manuscripts containing the lives and +predictions of all the Bogdo Khans. The Lamas were very frank and +open with me, because the letter of the Hutuktu of Narabanchi won +for me their confidence. + +The personality of the Living Buddha is double, just as everything +in Lamaism is double. Clever, penetrating, energetic, he at the +same time indulges in the drunkenness which has brought on +blindness. When he became blind, the Lamas were thrown into a +state of desperation. Some of them maintained that Bogdo Khan must +be poisoned and another Incarnate Buddha set in his place; while +the others pointed out the great merits of the Pontiff in the eyes +of Mongolians and the followers of the Yellow Faith. They finally +decided to propitiate the gods by building a great temple with a +gigantic statue of Buddha. However, this did not help the Bogdo's +sight but the whole incident gave him the opportunity of hurrying +on to their higher life those among the Lamas who had shown too +much radicalism in their proposed method of solving his problem. + +He never ceases to ponder upon the cause of the church and of +Mongolia and at the same time likes to indulge himself with useless +trifles. He amuses himself with artillery. A retired Russian +officer presented him with two old guns, for which the donor +received the title of Tumbaiir Hun, that is, "Prince Dear-to-my- +Heart." On holidays these cannon were fired to the great amusement +of the blind man. Motorcars, gramophones, telephones, crystals, +porcelains, pictures, perfumes, musical instruments, rare animals +and birds; elephants, Himalayan bears, monkeys, Indian snakes and +parrots--all these were in the palace of "the god" but all were +soon cast aside and forgotten. + +To Urga come pilgrims and presents from all the Lamaite and +Buddhist world. Once the treasurer of the palace, the Honorable +Balma Dorji, took me into the great hall where the presents were +kept. It was a most unique museum of precious articles. Here were +gathered together rare objects unknown to the museums of Europe. +The treasurer, as he opened a case with a silver lock, said to me: + +"These are pure gold nuggets from Bei Kem; here are black sables +from Kemchick; these the miraculous deer horns; this a box sent by +the Orochons and filled with precious ginseng roots and fragrant +musk; this a bit of amber from the coast of the 'frozen sea' and it +weighs 124 lans (about ten pounds); these are precious stones from +India, fragrant zebet and carved ivory from China." + +He showed the exhibits and talked of them for a long time and +evidently enjoyed the telling. And really it was wonderful! +Before my eyes lay the bundles of rare furs; white beaver, black +sables, white, blue and black fox and black panthers; small +beautifully carved tortoise shell boxes containing hatyks ten or +fifteen yards long, woven from Indian silk as fine as the webs of +the spider; small bags made of golden thread filled with pearls, +the presents of Indian Rajahs; precious rings with sapphires and +rubies from China and India; big pieces of jade, rough diamonds; +ivory tusks ornamented with gold, pearls and precious stones; +bright clothes sewn with gold and silver thread; walrus tusks +carved in bas-relief by the primitive artists on the shores of the +Behring Sea; and much more that one cannot recall or recount. In a +separate room stood the cases with the statues of Buddha, made of +gold, silver, bronze, ivory, coral, mother of pearl and from a rare +colored and fragrant species of wood. + +"You know when conquerors come into a country where the gods are +honored, they break the images and throw them down. So it was more +than three hundred years ago when the Kalmucks went into Tibet and +the same was repeated in Peking when the European troops looted the +place in 1900. But do you know why this is done? Take one of the +statues and examine it." + +I picked up one nearest the edge, a wooden Buddha, and began +examining it. Inside something was loose and rattled. + +"Do you hear it?" the Lama asked. "These are precious stones and +bits of gold, the entrails of the god. This is the reason why the +conquerors at once break up the statues of the gods. Many famous +precious stones have appeared from the interior of the statues of +the gods in India, Babylon and China." + +Some rooms were devoted to the library, where manuscripts and +volumes of different epochs in different languages and with many +diverse themes fill the shelves. Some of them are mouldering or +pulverizing away and the Lamas cover these now with a solution +which partially solidifies like a jelly to protect what remains +from the ravages of the air. There also we saw tablets of clay +with the cuneiform inscriptions, evidently from Babylonia; Chinese, +Indian and Tibetan books shelved beside those of Mongolia; tomes of +the ancient pure Buddhism; books of the "Red Caps" or corrupt +Buddhism; books of the "Yellow" or Lamaite Buddhism; books of +traditions, legends and parables. Groups of Lamas were perusing, +studying and copying these books, preserving and spreading the +ancient wisdom for their successors. + +One department is devoted to the mysterious books on magic, the +historical lives and works of all the thirty-one Living Buddhas, +with the bulls of the Dalai Lama, of the Pontiff from Tashi Lumpo, +of the Hutuktu of Utai in China, of the Pandita Gheghen of Dolo Nor +in Inner Mongolia and of the Hundred Chinese Wise Men. Only the +Bogdo Hutuktu and Maramba Ta-Rimpo-Cha can enter this room of +mysterious lore. The keys to it rest with the seals of the Living +Buddha and the ruby ring of Jenghiz Khan ornamented with the sign +of the swastika in the chest in the private study of the Bogdo. + +The person of His Holiness is surrounded by five thousand Lamas. +They are divided into many ranks from simple servants to the +"Councillors of God," of which latter the Government consists. +Among these Councillors are all the four Khans of Mongolia and the +five highest Princes. + +Of all the Lamas there are three classes of peculiar interest, +about which the Living Buddha himself told me when I visited him +with Djam Bolon. + +"The God" sorrowfully mourned over the demoralized and sumptuous +life led by the Lamas which decreased rapidly the number of fortune +tellers and clairvoyants among their ranks, saying of it: + +"If the Jahantsi and Narabanchi monasteries had not preserved their +strict regime and rules, Ta Kure would have been left without +prophets and fortune tellers. Barun Abaga Nar, Dorchiul-Jurdok and +the other holy Lamas who had the power of seeing that which is +hidden from the sight of the common people have gone with the +blessing of the gods." + +This class of Lamas is a very important one, because every +important personage visiting the monasteries at Urga is shown to +the Lama Tzuren or fortune teller without the knowledge of the +visitor for the study of his destiny and fate, which are then +communicated to the Bogdo Hutuktu, so that with these facts in his +possession the Bogdo knows in what way to treat his guest and what +policy to follow toward him. The Tzurens are mostly old men, +skinny, exhausted and severe ascetics. But I have met some who +were young, almost boys. They were the Hubilgan, "incarnate gods," +the future Hutuktus and Gheghens of the various Mongolian +monasteries. + +The second class is the doctors or "Ta Lama." They observe the +actions of plants and certain products from animals upon people, +preserve Tibetan medicines and cures, and study anatomy very +carefully but without making use of vivisection and the scalpel. +They are skilful bone setters, masseurs and great connoisseurs of +hypnotism and animal magnetism. + +The third class is the highest rank of doctors, consisting chiefly +of Tibetans and Kalmucks--poisoners. They may be said to be +"doctors of political medicine." They live by themselves, apart +from any associates, and are the great silent weapon in the hands +of the Living Buddha. I was informed that a large portion of them +are dumb. I saw one such doctor,--the very person who poisoned the +Chinese physician sent by the Chinese Emperor from Peking to +"liquidate" the Living Buddha,--a small white old fellow with a +deeply wrinkled face, a curl of white hairs on his chin and with +vivacious eyes that were ever shifting inquiringly about him. +Whenever he comes to a monastery, the local "god" ceases to eat and +drink in fear of the activities of this Mongolian Locusta. But +even this cannot save the condemned, for a poisoned cap or shirt or +boots, or a rosary, a bridle, books or religious articles soaked in +a poisonous solution will surely accomplish the object of the +Bogdo-Khan. + +The deepest esteem and religious faithfulness surround the blind +Pontiff. Before him all fall on their faces. Khans and Hutuktus +approach him on their knees. Everything about him is dark, full of +Oriental antiquity. The drunken blind man, listening to the banal +arias of the gramophone or shaking his servants with an electric +current from his dynamo, the ferocious old fellow poisoning his +political enemies, the Lama keeping his people in darkness and +deceiving them with his prophecies and fortune telling,--he is, +however, not an entirely ordinary man. + +One day we sat in the room of the Bogdo and Prince Djam Bolon +translated to him my story of the Great War. The old fellow was +listening very carefully but suddenly opened his eyes widely and +began to give attention to some sounds coming in from outside the +room. His face became reverent, supplicant and frightened. + +"The Gods call me," he whispered and slowly moved into his private +shrine, where he prayed loudly about two hours, kneeling immobile +as a statue. His prayer consists of conversation with the +invisible gods, to whose questions he himself gave the answers. He +came out of the shrine pale and exhausted but pleased and happy. +It was his personal prayer. During the regular temple service he +did not participate in the prayers, for then he is "God." Sitting +on his throne, he is carried and placed on the altar and there +prayed to by the Lamas and the people. He only receives the +prayers, hopes, tears, woe and desperation of the people, +immobilely gazing into space with his sharp and bright but blind +eyes. At various times in the service the Lamas robe him in +different vestments, combinations of yellow and red, and change his +caps. The service always finishes at the solemn moment when the +Living Buddha with the tiara on his head pronounces the pontifical +blessing upon the congregation, turning his face to all four +cardinal points of the compass and finally stretching out his hands +toward the northwest, that is, to Europe, whither in the belief of +the Yellow Faith must travel the teachings of the wise Buddha. + +After earnest prayers or long temple services the Pontiff seems +very deeply shaken and often calls his secretaries and dictates his +visions and prophecies, always very complicated and unaccompanied +by his deductions. + +Sometimes with the words "Their souls are communicating," he puts +on his white robes and goes to pray in his shrine. Then all the +gates of the palace are shut and all the Lamas are sunk in solemn, +mystic fear; all are praying, telling their rosaries and whispering +the orison: "Om! Mani padme Hung!" or turning the prayer wheels +with their prayers or exorcisings; the fortune tellers read their +horoscopes; the clairvoyants write out their visions; while +Marambas search the ancient books for explanations of the words of +the Living Buddha. + + +CHAPTER XLI + +THE DUST OF CENTURIES + + +Have you ever seen the dusty cobwebs and the mould in the cellars +of some ancient castle in Italy, France or England? This is the +dust of centuries. Perhaps it touched the faces, helmets and +swords of a Roman Augustus, St. Louis, the Inquisitor, Galileo or +King Richard. Your heart is involuntarily contracted and you feel +a respect for these witnesses of elapsed ages. This same +impression came to me in Ta Kure, perhaps more deep, more +realistic. Here life flows on almost as it flowed eight centuries +ago; here man lives only in the past; and the contemporary only +complicates and prevents the normal life. + +"Today is a great day," the Living Buddha once said to me, "the day +of the victory of Buddhism over all other religions. It was a long +time ago--on this day Kublai Khan called to him the Lamas of all +religions and ordered them to state to him how and what they +believed. They praised their Gods and their Hutuktus. Discussions +and quarrels began. Only one Lama remained silent. At last he +mockingly smiled and said: + +"'Great Emperor! Order each to prove the power of his Gods by the +performance of a miracle and afterwards judge and choose.' + +"Kublai Khan so ordered all the Lamas to show him a miracle but all +were silent, confused and powerless before him. + +"'Now,' said the Emperor, addressing the Lama who had tendered this +suggestion, 'now you must prove the power of your Gods!' + +"The Lama looked long and silently at the Emperor, turned and gazed +at the whole assembly and then quietly stretched out his hand +toward them. At this instant the golden goblet of the Emperor +raised itself from the table and tipped before the lips of the Khan +without a visible hand supporting it. The Emperor felt the delight +of a fragrant wine. All were struck with astonishment and the +Emperor spoke: + +"'I elect to pray to your Gods and to them all people subject to me +must pray. What is your faith? Who are you and from where do you +come?' + +"'My faith is the teaching of the wise Buddha. I am Pandita Lama, +Turjo Gamba, from the distant and glorious monastery of Sakkia in +Tibet, where dwells incarnate in a human body the Spirit of Buddha, +his Wisdom and his Power. Remember, Emperor, that the peoples who +hold our faith shall possess all the Western Universe and during +eight hundred and eleven years shall spread their faith throughout +the whole world.' + +"Thus it happened on this same day many centuries ago! Lama Turjo +Gamba did not return to Tibet but lived here in Ta Kure, where +there was then only a small temple. From here he traveled to the +Emperor at Karakorum and afterwards with him to the capital of +China to fortify him in the Faith, to predict the fate of state +affairs and to enlighten him according to the will of God." + +The Living Buddha was silent for a time, whispered a prayer and +then continued: + +"Urga, the ancient nest of Buddhism. . . . With Jenghiz Khan on +his European conquest went out the Olets or Kalmucks. They +remained there almost four hundred years, living on the plains of +Russia. Then they returned to Mongolia because the Yellow Lamas +called them to light against the Kings of Tibet, Lamas of the 'red +caps,' who were oppressing the people. The Kalmucks helped the +Yellow Faith but they realized that Lhasa was too distant from the +whole world and could not spread our Faith throughout the earth. +Consequently the Kalmuck Gushi Khan brought up from Tibet a holy +Lama, Undur Gheghen, who had visited the 'King of the World.' From +that day the Bogdo Gheghen has continuously lived in Urga, a +protector of the freedom of Mongolia and of the Chinese Emperors of +Mongolian origin. Undur Gheghen was the first Living Buddha in the +land of the Mongols. He left to us, his successors, the ring of +Jenghiz Khan, which was sent by Kublai Khan to Dalai Lama in return +for the miracle shown by the Lama Turjo Gamba; also the top of the +skull of a black, mysterious miracle worker from India, using which +as a bowl, Strongtsan, King of Tibet, drank during the temple +ceremonies one thousand six hundred years ago; as well as an +ancient stone statue of Buddha brought from Delhi by the founder of +the Yellow Faith, Paspa." + +The Bogdo clapped his hands and one of the secretaries took from a +red kerchief a big silver key with which he unlocked the chest with +the seals. The Living Buddha slipped his hand into the chest and +drew forth a small box of carved ivory, from which he took out and +showed to me a large gold ring set with a magnificent ruby carved +with the sign of the swastika. + +"This ring was always worn on the right hand of the Khans Jenghiz +and Kublai," said the Bogdo. + +When the secretary had closed the chest, the Bogdo ordered him to +summon his favorite Maramba, whom he directed to read some pages +from an ancient book lying on the table. The Lama began to read +monotonously. + +"When Gushi Khan, the Chief of all the Olets or Kalmucks, finished +the war with the 'Red Caps' in Tibet, he carried out with him the +miraculous 'black stone' sent to the Dalai Lama by the 'King of the +World.' Gushi Khan wanted to create in Western Mongolia the +capital of the Yellow Faith; but the Olets at that time were at war +with the Manchu Emperors for the throne of China and suffered one +defeat after another. The last Khan of the Olets, Amursana, ran +away into Russia but before his escape sent to Urga the sacred +'black stone.' While it remained in Urga so that the Living Buddha +could bless the people with it, disease and misfortune never +touched the Mongolians and their cattle. About one hundred years +ago, however, some one stole the sacred stone and since then +Buddhists have vainly sought it throughout the whole world. With +its disappearance the Mongol people began gradually to die." + +"Enough!" ordered Bogdo Gheghen. "Our neighbors hold us in +contempt. They forget that we were their sovereigns but we +preserve our holy traditions and we know that the day of triumph of +the Mongolian tribes and the Yellow Faith will come. We have the +Protectors of the Faith, the Buriats. They are the truest +guardians of the bequests of Jenghiz Khan." + +So spoke the Living Buddha and so have spoken the ancient books! + + +CHAPTER XLII + +THE BOOKS OF MIRACLES + + +Prince Djam Bolon asked a Maramba to show us the library of the +Living Buddha. It is a big room occupied by scores of writers who +prepare the works dealing with the miracles of all the Living +Buddhas, beginning with Undur Gheghen and ending with those of the +Gheghens and Hutuktus of the different Mongol monasteries. These +books are afterwards distributed through all the Lama Monasteries, +temples and schools of Bandi. A Maramba read two selections: + +". . . The beatific Bogdo Gheghen breathed on a mirror. +Immediately as through a haze there appeared the picture of a +valley in which many thousands of thousands of warriors fought one +against another. . . ." + +"The wise and favored-of-the-gods Living Buddha burned incense in a +brazier and prayed to the Gods to reveal the lot of the Princes. +In the blue smoke all saw a dark prison and the pallid, tortured +bodies of the dead Princes. . . ." + +A special book, already done into thousands of copies, dwelt upon +the miracles of the present Living Buddha. Prince Djam Bolon +described to me some of the contents of this volume. + +"There exists an ancient wooden Buddha with open eyes. He was +brought here from India and Bogdo Gheghen placed him on the altar +and began to pray. When he returned from the shrine, he ordered +the statue of Buddha brought out. All were struck with amazement, +for the eyes of the God were shut and tears were falling from them; +from the wooden body green sprouts appeared; and the Bogdo said: + +"'Woe and joy are awaiting me. I shall become blind but Mongolia +will be free.' + +"The prophecy is fulfilled. At another time, on a day when the +Living Buddha was very much excited, he ordered a basin of water +brought and set before the altar. He called the Lamas and began to +pray. Suddenly the altar candles and lamps lighted themselves and +the water in the basin became iridescent." + +Afterwards the Prince described to me how the Bogdo Khan tells +fortunes with fresh blood, upon whose surface appear words and +pictures; with the entrails of sheep and goats, according to whose +distribution the Bogdo reads the fate of the Princes and knows +their thoughts; with stones and bones from which the Living Buddha +with great accuracy reads the lot of all men; and by the stars, in +accordance with whose positions the Bogdo prepares amulets against +bullets and disease. + +"The former Bogdo Khans told fortunes only by the use of the 'black +stone,'" said the Maramba. "On the surface of the stone appeared +Tibetan inscriptions which the Bogdo read and thus learned the lot +of whole nations." + +When the Maramba spoke of the black stone with the Tibetan legends +appearing on it, I at once recalled that it was possible. In +southeastern Urianhai, in Ulan Taiga, I came across a place where +black slate was decomposing. All the pieces of this slate were +covered with a special white lichen, which formed very complicated +designs, reminding me of a Venetian lace pattern or whole pages of +mysterious runes. When the slate was wet, these designs +disappeared; and then, as they were dried, the patterns came out +again. + +Nobody has the right or dares to ask the Living Buddha to tell his +fortune. He predicts only when he feels the inspiration or when a +special delegate comes to him bearing a request for it from the +Dalai Lama or the Tashi Lama. When the Russian Czar, Alexander I, +fell under the influence of Baroness Kzudener and of her extreme +mysticism, he despatched a special envoy to the Living Buddha to +ask about his destiny. The then Bogdo Khan, quite a young man, +told his fortune according to the "black stone" and predicted that +the White Czar would finish his life in very painful wanderings +unknown to all and everywhere pursued. In Russia today there +exists a popular belief that Alexander I spent the last days of his +life as a wanderer throughout Russia and Siberia under the +pseudonym of Feodor Kusmitch, helping and consoling prisoners, +beggars and other suffering people, often pursued and imprisoned by +the police and finally dying at Tomsk in Siberia, where even until +now they have preserved the house where he spent his last days and +have kept his grave sacred, a place of pilgrimages and miracles. +The former dynasty of Romanoff was deeply interested in the +biography of Feodor Kusmitch and this interest fixed the opinion +that Kusmitch was really the Czar Alexander I, who had voluntarily +taken upon himself this severe penance. + + +CHAPTER XLIII + +THE BIRTH OF THE LIVING BUDDHA + + +The Living Buddha does not die. His soul sometimes passes into +that of a child born on the day of his death and sometimes +transfers itself to another being during the life of the Buddha. +This new mortal dwelling of the sacred spirit of the Buddha almost +always appears in the yurta of some poor Tibetan or Mongol family. +There is a reason of policy for this. If the Buddha appears in the +family of a rich prince, it could result in the elevation of a +family that would not yield obedience to the clergy (and such has +happened in the past), while on the other hand any poor, unknown +family that becomes the heritor of the throne of Jenghiz Khan +acquires riches and is readily submissive to the Lamas. Only three +or four Living Buddhas were of purely Mongolian origin; the +remainder were Tibetans. + +One of the Councillors of the Living Buddha, Lama-Khan Jassaktu, +told me the following: + +"In the monasteries at Lhasa and Tashi Lumpo they are kept +constantly informed through letters from Urga about the health of +the Living Buddha. When his human body becomes old and the Spirit +of Buddha strives to extricate itself, special solemn services +begin in the Tibetan temples together with the telling of fortunes +by astrology. These rites indicate the specially pious Lamas who +must discover where the Spirit of the Buddha will be re-incarnated. +For this purpose they travel throughout the whole land and observe. +Often God himself gives them signs and indications. Sometimes the +white wolf appears near the yurta of a poor shepherd or a lamb with +two heads is born or a meteor falls from the sky. Some Lamas take +fish from the sacred lake Tangri Nor and read on the scales thereof +the name of the new Bogdo Khan; others pick out stones whose cracks +indicate to them where they must search and whom they must find; +while others secrete themselves in narrow mountain ravines to +listen to the voices of the spirits of the mountains, pronouncing +the name of the new choice of the Gods. When he is found, all the +possible information about his family is secretly collected and +presented to the Most Learned Tashi Lama, having the name of +Erdeni, "The Great Gem of Learning," who, according to the runes of +Rama, verifies the selection. If he is in agreement with it, he +sends a secret letter to the Dalai Lama, who holds a special +sacrifice in the Temple of the "Spirit of the Mountains" and +confirms the election by putting his great seal on this letter of +the Tashi Lama. + +If the old Living Buddha be still alive, the name of his successor +is kept a deep secret; if the Spirit of Buddha has already gone out +from the body of Bogdo Khan, a special legation appears from Tibet +with the new Living Buddha. The same process accompanies the +election of the Gheghen and Hutuktus in all the Lamaite monasteries +in Mongolia; but confirmation of the election resides with the +Living Buddha and is only announced to Lhasa after the event. + + +CHAPTER XLIV + +A PAGE IN THE HISTORY OF THE PRESENT LIVING BUDDHA + + +The present Bogdo Khan of Outer Mongolia is a Tibetan. He sprang +from a poor family living in the neighborhood of Sakkia Kure in +western Tibet. From earliest youth he had a stormy, quite +unaesthetic nature. He was fired with the idea of the independence +and glorification of Mongolia and the successors of Jenghiz Khan. +This gave him at once a great influence among the Lamas, Princes +and Khans of Mongolia and also with the Russian Government which +always tried to attract him to their side. He did not fear to +arraign himself against the Manchu dynasty in China and always had +the help of Russia, Tibet, the Buriats and Kirghiz, furnishing him +with money, weapons, warriors and diplomatic aid. The Chinese +Emperors avoided open war with the Living God, because it might +arouse the protests of the Chinese Buddhists. At one time they +sent to the Bogdo Khan a skilful doctor-poisoner. The Living +Buddha, however, at once understood the meaning of this medical +attention and, knowing the power of Asiatic poisons, decided to +make a journey through the Mongol monasteries and through Tibet. +As his substitute he left a Hubilgan who made friends with the +Chinese doctor and inquired from him the purposes and details of +his arrival. Very soon the Chinese died from some unknown cause +and the Living Buddha returned to his comfortable capital. + +On another occasion danger threatened the Living God. It was when +Lhasa decided that the Bogdo Khan was carrying out a policy too +independent of Tibet. The Dalai Lama began negotiations with +several Khans and Princes with the Sain Noion Khan and Jassaktu +Khan leading the movement and persuaded them to accelerate the +immigration of the Spirit of Buddha into another human form. They +came to Urga where the Bogdo Khan met them with honors and +rejoicings. A great feast was made for them and the conspirators +already felt themselves the accomplishers of the orders of the +Dalai Lama. However, at the end of the feast, they had different +feelings and died with them during the night. The Living Buddha +ordered their bodies sent with full honors to their families. + +The Bogdo Khan knows every thought, every movement of the Princes +and Khans, the slightest conspiracy against himself, and the +offender is usually kindly invited to Urga, from where he does not +return alive. + +The Chinese Government decided to terminate the line of the Living +Buddhas. Ceasing to fight with the Pontiff of Urga, the Government +contrived the following scheme for accomplishing its ends. + +Peking invited the Pandita Gheghen from Dolo Nor and the head of +the Chinese Lamaites, the Hutuktu of Utai, both of whom do not +recognize the supremacy of the Living Buddha, to come to the +capital. They decided, after consulting the old Buddhistic books, +that the present Bogdo Khan was to be the last Living Buddha, +because that part of the Spirit of Buddha which dwells in the Bogdo +Khans can abide only thirty-one times in the human body. Bogdo +Khan is the thirty-first Incarnated Buddha from the time of Undur +Gheghen and with him, therefore, the dynasty of the Urga Pontiffs +must cease. However, on hearing this the Bogdo Khan himself did +some research work and found in the old Tibetan manuscripts that +one of the Tibetan Pontiffs was married and his son was a natural +Incarnated Buddha. So the Bogdo Khan married and now has a son, a +very capable and energetic young man, and thus the religious throne +of Jenghiz Khan will not be left empty. The dynasty of the Chinese +emperors disappeared from the stage of political events but the +Living Buddha continues to be a center for the Pan-Asiatic idea. + +The new Chinese Government in 1920 held the Living Buddha under +arrest in his palace but at the beginning of 1921 Baron Ungern +crossed the sacred Bogdo-Ol and approached the palace from the +rear. Tibetan riders shot the Chinese sentries with bow and arrow +and afterwards the Mongols penetrated into the palace and stole +their "God," who immediately stirred up all Mongolia and awakened +the hopes of the Asiatic peoples and tribes. + +In the great palace of the Bogdo a Lama showed me a special casket +covered with a precious carpet, wherein they keep the bulls of the +Dalai and Tashi Lamas, the decrees of the Russian and Chinese +Emperors and the Treaties between Mongolia, Russia, China and +Tibet. In this same casket is the copper plate bearing the +mysterious sign of the "King of the World" and the chronicle of the +last vision of the Living Buddha. + + +CHAPTER XLV + +THE VISION OF THE LIVING BUDDHA OF MAY 17, 1921 + + +"I prayed and saw that which is hidden from the eyes of the people. +A vast plain was spread before me surrounded by distant mountains. +An old Lama carried a basket filled with heavy stones. He hardly +moved. From the north a rider appeared in white robes and mounted +on a white horse. He approached the Lama and said to him: + +"'Give me your basket. I shall help you to carry them to the +Kure.' + +"The Lama handed his heavy burden up to him but the rider could not +raise it to his saddle so that the old Lama had to place it back on +his shoulder and continue on his way, bent under its heavy weight. +Then from the north came another rider in black robes and on a +black horse, who also approached the Lama and said: + +"'Stupid! Why do you carry these stones when they are everywhere +about the ground?' + +"With these words he pushed the Lama over with the breast of his +horse and scattered the stones about the ground. When the stones +touched the earth, they became diamonds. All three rushed to raise +them but not one of them could break them loose from the ground. +Then the old Lama exclaimed: + +"'Oh Gods! All my life I have carried this heavy burden and now, +when there was left so little to go, I have lost it. Help me, +great, good Gods!' + +"Suddenly a tottering old man appeared. He collected all the +diamonds into the basket without trouble, cleaned the dust from +them, raised the burden to his shoulder and started out, speaking +with the Lama: + +"'Rest a while, I have just carried my burden to the goal and I am +glad to help you with yours.' + +"They went on and were soon out of sight, while the riders began to +fight. They fought one whole day and then the whole night and, +when the sun rose over the plain, neither was there, either alive +or dead, and no trace of either remained. This I saw, Bogdo +Hutuktu Khan, speaking with the Great and Wise Buddha, surrounded +by the good and bad demons! Wise Lamas, Hutuktus, Kampos, Marambas +and Holy Gheghens, give the answer to my vision!" + +This was written in my presence on May 17th, 1921, from the words +of the Living Buddha just as he came out of his private shrine to +his study. I do not know what the Hutuktu and Gheghens, the +fortune tellers, sorcerers and clairvoyants replied to him; but +does not the answer seem clear, if one realizes the present +situation in Asia? + +Awakened Asia is full of enigmas but it is also full of answers to +the questions set by the destiny of humankind. This great +continent of mysterious Pontiffs, Living Gods, Mahatmas and readers +of the terrible book of Karma is awakening and the ocean of +hundreds of millions of human lives is lashed with monstrous waves. + + + +Part V + +MYSTERY OF MYSTERIES--THE KING OF THE WORLD + + +CHAPTER XLVI + +THE SUBTERRANEAN KINGDOM + + +"Stop!" whispered my old Mongol guide, as we were one day crossing +the plain near Tzagan Luk. "Stop!" + +He slipped from his camel which lay down without his bidding. The +Mongol raised his hands in prayer before his face and began to +repeat the sacred phrase: "Om! Mani padme Hung!" The other +Mongols immediately stopped their camels and began to pray. + +"What has happened?" I thought, as I gazed round over the tender +green grass, up to the cloudless sky and out toward the dreamy soft +rays of the evening sun. + +The Mongols prayed for some time, whispered among themselves and, +after tightening up the packs on the camels, moved on. + +"Did you see," asked the Mongol, "how our camels moved their ears +in fear? How the herd of horses on the plain stood fixed in +attention and how the herds of sheep and cattle lay crouched close +to the ground? Did you notice that the birds did not fly, the +marmots did not run and the dogs did not bark? The air trembled +softly and bore from afar the music of a song which penetrated to +the hearts of men, animals and birds alike. Earth and sky ceased +breathing. The wind did not blow and the sun did not move. At +such a moment the wolf that is stealing up on the sheep arrests his +stealthy crawl; the frightened herd of antelopes suddenly checks +its wild course; the knife of the shepherd cutting the sheep's +throat falls from his hand; the rapacious ermine ceases to stalk +the unsuspecting salga. All living beings in fear are +involuntarily thrown into prayer and waiting for their fate. So it +was just now. Thus it has always been whenever the King of the +World in his subterranean palace prays and searches out the destiny +of all peoples on the earth." + +In this wise the old Mongol, a simple, coarse shepherd and hunter, +spoke to me. + +Mongolia with her nude and terrible mountains, her limitless +plains, covered with the widely strewn bones of the forefathers, +gave birth to Mystery. Her people, frightened by the stormy +passions of Nature or lulled by her deathlike peace, feel her +mystery. Her "Red" and "Yellow Lamas" preserve and poetize her +mystery. The Pontiffs of Lhasa and Urga know and possess her +mystery. + +On my journey into Central Asia I came to know for the first time +about "the Mystery of Mysteries," which I can call by no other +name. At the outset I did not pay much attention to it and did not +attach to it such importance as I afterwards realized belonged to +it, when I had analyzed and connoted many sporadic, hazy and often +controversial bits of evidence. + +The old people on the shore of the River Amyl related to me an +ancient legend to the effect that a certain Mongolian tribe in +their escape from the demands of Jenghiz Khan hid themselves in a +subterranean country. Afterwards a Soyot from near the Lake of +Nogan Kul showed me the smoking gate that serves as the entrance to +the "Kingdom of Agharti." Through this gate a hunter formerly +entered into the Kingdom and, after his return, began to relate +what he had seen there. The Lamas cut out his tongue in order to +prevent him from telling about the Mystery of Mysteries. When he +arrived at old age, he came back to the entrance of this cave and +disappeared into the subterranean kingdom, the memory of which had +ornamented and lightened his nomad heart. + +I received more realistic information about this from Hutuktu Jelyb +Djamsrap in Narabanchi Kure. He told me the story of the semi- +realistic arrival of the powerful King of the World from the +subterranean kingdom, of his appearance, of his miracles and of his +prophecies; and only then did I begin to understand that in that +legend, hypnosis or mass vision, whichever it may be, is hidden not +only mystery but a realistic and powerful force capable of +influencing the course of the political life of Asia. From that +moment I began making some investigations. + +The favorite Gelong Lama of Prince Chultun Beyli and the Prince +himself gave me an account of the subterranean kingdom. + +"Everything in the world," said the Gelong, "is constantly in a +state of change and transition--peoples science, religions, laws +and customs. How many great empires and brilliant cultures have +perished! And that alone which remains unchanged is Evil, the tool +of Bad Spirits. More than sixty thousand years ago a Holyman +disappeared with a whole tribe of people under the ground and never +appeared again on the surface of the earth. Many people, however, +have since visited this kingdom, Sakkia Mouni, Undur Gheghen, +Paspa, Khan Baber and others. No one knows where this place is. +One says Afghanistan, others India. All the people there are +protected against Evil and crimes do not exist within its bournes. +Science has there developed calmly and nothing is threatened with +destruction. The subterranean people have reached the highest +knowledge. Now it is a large kingdom, millions of men with the +King of the World as their ruler. He knows all the forces of the +world and reads all the souls of humankind and the great book of +their destiny. Invisibly he rules eight hundred million men on the +surface of the earth and they will accomplish his every order." + +Prince Chultun Beyli added: "This kingdom is Agharti. It extends +throughout all the subterranean passages of the whole world. I +heard a learned Lama of China relating to Bogdo Khan that all the +subterranean caves of America are inhabited by the ancient people +who have disappeared underground. Traces of them are still found +on the surface of the land. These subterranean peoples and spaces +are governed by rulers owing allegiance to the King of the World. +In it there is not much of the wonderful. You know that in the two +greatest oceans of the east and the west there were formerly two +continents. They disappeared under the water but their people went +into the subterranean kingdom. In underground caves there exists a +peculiar light which affords growth to the grains and vegetables +and long life without disease to the people. There are many +different peoples and many different tribes. An old Buddhist +Brahman in Nepal was carrying out the will of the Gods in making a +visit to the ancient kingdom of Jenghiz,--Siam,--where he met a +fisherman who ordered him to take a place in his boat and sail with +him upon the sea. On the third day they reached an island where he +met a people having two tongues which could speak separately in +different languages. They showed to him peculiar, unfamiliar +animals, tortoises with sixteen feet and one eye, huge snakes with +a very tasty flesh and birds with teeth which caught fish for their +masters in the sea. These people told him that they had come up +out of the subterranean kingdom and described to him certain parts +of the underground country." + +The Lama Turgut traveling with me from Urga to Peking gave me +further details. + +"The capital of Agharti is surrounded with towns of high priests +and scientists. It reminds one of Lhasa where the palace of the +Dalai Lama, the Potala, is the top of a mountain covered with +monasteries and temples. The throne of the King of the World is +surrounded by millions of incarnated Gods. They are the Holy +Panditas. The palace itself is encircled by the palaces of the +Goro, who possess all the visible and invisible forces of the +earth, of inferno and of the sky and who can do everything for the +life and death of man. If our mad humankind should begin a war +against them, they would be able to explode the whole surface of +our planet and transform it into deserts. They can dry up the +seas, transform lands into oceans and scatter the mountains into +the sands of the deserts. By his order trees, grasses and bushes +can be made to grow; old and feeble men can become young and +stalwart; and the dead can be resurrected. In cars strange and +unknown to us they rush through the narrow cleavages inside our +planet. Some Indian Brahmans and Tibetan Dalai Lamas during their +laborious struggles to the peaks of mountains which no other human +feet had trod have found there inscriptions carved on the rocks, +footprints in the snow and the tracks of wheels. The blissful +Sakkia Mouni found on one mountain top tablets of stone carrying +words which he only understood in his old age and afterwards +penetrated into the Kingdom of Agharti, from which he brought back +crumbs of the sacred learning preserved in his memory. There in +palaces of wonderful crystal live the invisible rulers of all pious +people, the King of the World or Brahytma, who can speak with God +as I speak with you, and his two assistants, Mahytma, knowing the +purposes of future events, and Mahynga, ruling the causes of these +events." + +"The Holy Panditas study the world and all its forces. Sometimes +the most learned among them collect together and send envoys to +that place where the human eyes have never penetrated. This is +described by the Tashi Lama living eight hundred and fifty years +ago. The highest Panditas place their hands on their eyes and at +the base of the brain of younger ones and force them into a deep +sleep, wash their bodies with an infusion of grass and make them +immune to pain and harder than stones, wrap them in magic cloths, +bind them and then pray to the Great God. The petrified youths lie +with eyes and ears open and alert, seeing, hearing and remembering +everything. Afterwards a Goro approaches and fastens a long, +steady gaze upon them. Very slowly the bodies lift themselves from +the earth and disappear. The Goro sits and stares with fixed eyes +to the place whither he has sent them. Invisible threads join them +to his will. Some of them course among the stars, observe their +events, their unknown peoples, their life and their laws. They +listen to their talk, read their books, understand their fortunes +and woes, their holiness and sins, their piety and evil. Some are +mingled with flame and see the creature of fire, quick and +ferocious, eternally fighting, melting and hammering metals in the +depths of planets, boiling the water for geysers and springs, +melting the rocks and pushing out molten streams over the surface +of the earth through the holes in the mountains. Others rush +together with the ever elusive, infinitesimally small, transparent +creatures of the air and penetrate into the mysteries of their +existence and into the purposes of their life. Others slip into +the depths of the seas and observe the kingdom of the wise +creatures of the water, who transport and spread genial warmth all +over the earth, ruling the winds, waves and storms. . . . In +Erdeni Dzu formerly lived Pandita Hutuktu, who had come from +Agharti. As he was dying, he told about the time when he lived +according to the will of the Goro on a red star in the east, +floated in the ice-covered ocean and flew among the stormy fires in +the depths of the earth." + +These are the tales which I heard in the Mongolian yurtas of +Princes and in the Lamaite monasteries. These stories were all +related in a solemn tone which forbade challenge and doubt. + +Mystery. . . . + + +CHAPTER XLVII + +THE KING OF THE WORLD BEFORE THE FACE OF GOD + + +During my stay in Urga I tried to find an explanation of this +legend about the King of the World. Of course, the Living Buddha +could tell me most of all and so I endeavored to get the story from +him. In a conversation with him I mentioned the name of the King +of the World. The old Pontiff sharply turned his head toward me +and fixed upon me his immobile, blind eyes. Unwillingly I became +silent. Our silence was a long one and after it the Pontiff +continued the conversation in such a way that I understood he did +not wish to accept the suggestion of my reference. On the faces of +the others present I noticed expressions of astonishment and fear +produced by my words, and especially was this true of the custodian +of the library of the Bogdo Khan. One can readily understand that +all this only made me the more anxious to press the pursuit. + +As I was leaving the study of the Bogdo Hutuktu, I met the +librarian who had stepped out ahead of me and asked him if he would +show me the library of the Living Buddha and used a very simple, +sly trick with him. + +"Do you know, my dear Lama," I said, "once I rode in the plain at +the hour when the King of the World spoke with God and I felt the +impressive majesty of this moment." + +To my astonishment the old Lama very quietly answered me: "It is +not right that the Buddhist and our Yellow Faith should conceal it. +The acknowledgment of the existence of the most holy and most +powerful man, of the blissful kingdom, of the great temple of +sacred science is such a consolation to our sinful hearts and our +corrupt lives that to conceal it from humankind is a sin. . . . +Well, listen," he continued, "throughout the whole year the King of +the World guides the work of the Panditas and Goros of Agharti. +Only at times he goes to the temple cave where the embalmed body of +his predecessor lies in a black stone coffin. This cave is always +dark, but when the King of the World enters it the walls are +striped with fire and from the lid of the coffin appear tongues of +flame. The eldest Goro stands before him with covered head and +face and with hands folded across his chest. This Goro never +removes the covering from his face, for his head is a nude skull +with living eyes and a tongue that speaks. He is in communion with +the souls of all who have gone before. + +"The King of the World prays for a long time and afterwards +approaches the coffin and stretches out his hand. The flames +thereon burn brighter; the stripes of fire on the walls disappear +and revive, interlace and form mysterious signs from the alphabet +vatannan. From the coffin transparent bands of scarcely noticeable +light begin to flow forth. These are the thoughts of his +predecessor. Soon the King of the World stands surrounded by an +auriole of this light and fiery letters write and write upon the +walls the wishes and orders of God. At this moment the King of the +World is in contact with the thoughts of all the men who influence +the lot and life of all humankind: with Kings, Czars, Khans, +warlike leaders, High Priests, scientists and other strong men. He +realizes all their thoughts and plans. If these be pleasing before +God, the King of the World will invisibly help them; if they are +unpleasant in the sight of God, the King will bring them to +destruction. This power is given to Agharti by the mysterious +science of 'Om,' with which we begin all our prayers. 'Om' is the +name of an ancient Holyman, the first Goro, who lived three hundred +thirty thousand years ago. He was the first man to know God and +who taught humankind to believe, hope and struggle with Evil. Then +God gave him power over all forces ruling the visible world. + +"After his conversation with his predecessor the King of the World +assembles the 'Great Council of God,' judges the actions and +thoughts of great men, helps them or destroys them. Mahytma and +Mahynga find the place for these actions and thoughts in the causes +ruling the world. Afterwards the King of the World enters the +great temple and prays in solitude. Fire appears on the altar, +gradually spreading to all the altars near, and through the burning +flame gradually appears the face of God. The King of the World +reverently announces to God the decisions and awards of the +'Council of God' and receives in turn the Divine orders of the +Almighty. As he comes forth from the temple, the King of the World +radiates with Divine Light." + + +CHAPTER XLVIII + +REALITY OR RELIGIOUS FANTASY? + + +"Has anybody seen the King of the World?" I asked. + +"Oh, yes!" answered the Lama. "During the solemn holidays of the +ancient Buddhism in Siam and India the King of the World appeared +five times. He rode in a splendid car drawn by white elephants and +ornamented with gold, precious stones and finest fabrics; he was +robed in a white mantle and red tiara with strings of diamonds +masking his face. He blessed the people with a golden apple with +the figure of a Lamb above it. The blind received their sight, the +dumb spoke, the deaf heard, the crippled freely moved and the dead +arose, wherever the eyes of the King of the World rested. He also +appeared five hundred and forty years ago in Erdeni Dzu, he was in +the ancient Sakkai Monastery and in the Narabanchi Kure. + +"One of our Living Buddhas and one of the Tashi Lamas received a +message from him, written with unknown signs on golden tablets. No +one could read these signs. The Tashi Lama entered the temple, +placed the golden tablet on his head and began to pray. With this +the thoughts of the King of the World penetrated his brain and, +without having read the enigmatical signs, he understood and +accomplished the message of the King." + +"How many persons have ever been to Agharti?" I questioned him. + +"Very many," answered the Lama, "but all these people have kept +secret that which they saw there. When the Olets destroyed Lhasa, +one of their detachments in the southwestern mountains penetrated +to the outskirts of Agharti. Here they learned some of the lesser +mysterious sciences and brought them to the surface of our earth. +This is why the Olets and Kalmucks are artful sorcerers and +prophets. Also from the eastern country some tribes of black +people penetrated to Agharti and lived there many centuries. +Afterwards they were thrust out from the kingdom and returned to +the earth, bringing with them the mystery of predictions according +to cards, grasses and the lines of the palm. They are the +Gypsies. . . . Somewhere in the north of Asia a tribe exists +which is now dying and which came from the cave of Agharti, +skilled in calling back the spirits of the dead as they float +through the air." + +The Lama was silent and afterwards, as though answering my +thoughts, continued. + +"In Agharti the learned Panditas write on tablets of stone all the +science of our planet and of the other worlds. The Chinese learned +Buddhists know this. Their science is the highest and purest. +Every century one hundred sages of China collect in a secret place +on the shores of the sea, where from its depths come out one +hundred eternally-living tortoises. On their shells the Chinese +write all the developments of the divine science of the century." + +As I write I am involuntarily reminded of a tale of an old Chinese +bonze in the Temple of Heaven at Peking. He told me that tortoises +live more than three thousand years without food and air and that +this is the reason why all the columns of the blue Temple of Heaven +were set on live tortoises to preserve the wood from decay. + +"Several times the Pontiffs of Lhasa and Urga have sent envoys to +the King of the World," said the Lama librarian, "but they could +not find him. Only a certain Tibetan leader after a battle with +the Olets found the cave with the inscription: 'This is the gate +to Agharti.' From the cave a fine appearing man came forth, +presented him with a gold tablet bearing the mysterious signs and +said: + +"'The King of the World will appear before all people when the time +shall have arrived for him to lead all the good people of the world +against all the bad; but this time has not yet come. The most evil +among mankind have not yet been born. + +"Chiang Chun Baron Ungern sent the young Prince Pounzig to seek out +the King of the World but he returned with a letter from the Dalai +Lama from Lhasa. When the Baron sent him a second time, he did not +come back." + + +CHAPTER XLIX + +THE PROPHECY OF THE KING OF THE WORLD IN 1890 + + +The Hutuktu of Narabanchi related the following to me, when I +visited him in his monastery in the beginning of 1921: + +"When the King of the World appeared before the Lamas, favored of +God, in this monastery thirty years ago he made a prophecy for the +coming half century. It was as follows: + +"'More and more the people will forget their souls and care about +their bodies. The greatest sin and corruption will reign on the +earth. People will become as ferocious animals, thirsting for the +blood and death of their brothers. The 'Crescent' will grow dim +and its followers will descend into beggary and ceaseless war. Its +conquerors will be stricken by the sun but will not progress upward +and twice they will be visited with the heaviest misfortune, which +will end in insult before the eye of the other peoples. The crowns +of kings, great and small, will fall . . . one, two, three, four, +five, six, seven, eight. . . . There will be a terrible battle +among all the peoples. The seas will become red . . . the earth +and the bottom of the seas will be strewn with bones . . . kingdoms +will be scattered . . . whole peoples will die . . . hunger, +disease, crimes unknown to the law, never before seen in the world. +The enemies of God and of the Divine Spirit in man will come. +Those who take the hand of another shall also perish. The +forgotten and pursued shall rise and hold the attention of the +whole world. There will be fogs and storms. Bare mountains shall +suddenly be covered with forests. Earthquakes will come. . . . +Millions will change the fetters of slavery and humiliation for +hunger, disease and death. The ancient roads will be covered with +crowds wandering from one place to another. The greatest and most +beautiful cities shall perish in fire . . . one, two, three. . . . +Father shall rise against son, brother against brother and mother +against daughter. . . . Vice, crime and the destruction of body +and soul shall follow. . . . Families shall be scattered. . . . +Truth and love shall disappear. . . . From ten thousand men one +shall remain; he shall be nude and mad and without force and the +knowledge to build him a house and find his food. . . . He will +howl as the raging wolf, devour dead bodies, bite his own flesh and +challenge God to fight. . . . All the earth will be emptied. God +will turn away from it and over it there will be only night and +death. Then I shall send a people, now unknown, which shall tear +out the weeds of madness and vice with a strong hand and will lead +those who still remain faithful to the spirit of man in the fight +against Evil. They will found a new life on the earth purified by +the death of nations. In the fiftieth year only three great +kingdoms will appear, which will exist happily seventy-one years. +Afterwards there will be eighteen years of war and destruction. +Then the peoples of Agharti will come up from their subterranean +caverns to the surface of the earth.'" + + * * * * * * + +Afterwards, as I traveled farther through Eastern Mongolia and to +Peking, I often thought: + +"And what if . . . ? What if whole peoples of different colors, +faiths and tribes should begin their migration toward the West?" + +And now, as I write these final lines, my eyes involuntarily turn +to this limitless Heart of Asia over which the trails of my +wanderings twine. Through whirling snow and driving clouds of sand +of the Gobi they travel back to the face of the Narabanchi Hutuktu +as, with quiet voice and a slender hand pointing to the horizon, he +opened to me the doors of his innermost thoughts: + +"Near Karakorum and on the shores of Ubsa Nor I see the huge, +multi-colored camps, the herds of horses and cattle and the blue +yurtas of the leaders. Above them I see the old banners of Jenghiz +Khan, of the Kings of Tibet, Siam, Afghanistan and of Indian +Princes; the sacred signs of all the Lamaite Pontiffs; the coats of +arms of the Khans of the Olets; and the simple signs of the north +Mongolian tribes. I do not hear the noise of the animated crowd. +The singers do not sing the mournful songs of mountain, plain and +desert. The young riders are not delighting themselves with the +races on their fleet steeds. . . . There are innumerable crowds of +old men, women and children and beyond in the north and west, as +far as the eye can reach, the sky is red as a flame, there is the +roar and crackling of fire and the ferocious sound of battle. Who +is leading these warriors who there beneath the reddened sky are +shedding their own and others' blood? Who is leading these crowds +of unarmed old men and women? I see severe order, deep religious +understanding of purposes, patience and tenacity . . . a new great +migration of peoples, the last march of the Mongols. . . ." + +Karma may have opened a new page of history! + +And what if the King of the World be with them? + +But this greatest Mystery of Mysteries keeps its own deep silence. + + +GLOSSARY + + +Agronome.--Russian for trained agriculturalist. + +Amour sayn.--Good-bye. + +Ataman.--Headman or chief of the Cossacks. + +Bandi.--Pupil or student of theological school in the Buddhist +faith. + +Buriat.--The most civilized Mongol tribe, living in the valley of +the Selenga in Transbaikalia. + +Chahars.--A warlike Mongolian tribe living along the Great Wall of +China in Inner Mongolia. + +Chaidje.--A high Lamaite priest, but not an incarnate god. + +Cheka.--The Bolshevik Counter-Revolutionary Committee, the most +relentless establishment of the Bolsheviki, organized for the +persecution of the enemies of the Communistic government in Russia. + +Chiang Chun.--Chinese for "General"--Chief of all Chinese troops in +Mongolia. + +Dalai Lama.--The first and highest Pontiff of the Lamaite or +"Yellow Faith," living at Lhasa in Tibet. + +Djungar.--A West Mongolian tribe. + +Dugun.--Chinese commercial and military post. + +Dzuk.--Lie down! + +Fang-tzu.--Chinese for "house." + +Fatil.--A very rare and precious root much prized in Chinese and +Tibetan medicines. + +Felcher.--Assistant of a doctor (surgeon). + +Gelong.--Lamaite priest having the right to offer sacrifices to +God. + +Getul.--The third rank in the Lamaite monks. + +Goro.--The high priest of the King of the World. + +Hatyk.--An oblong piece of blue (or yellow) silk cloth, presented +to honored guests, chiefs, Lamas and gods. Also a kind of coin, +worth from 25 to 50 cents. + +Hong.--A Chinese mercantile establishment. + +Hun.--The lowest rank of princes. + +Hunghutze.--Chinese brigand. + +Hushun.--A fenced enclosure, containing the houses, paddocks, +stores, stables, etc., of Russian Cossacks in Mongolia. + +Hutuktu.--The highest rank of Lamaite monks; the form of any +incarnated god; holy. + +Imouran.--A small rodent like a gopher. + +Izubr.--The American elk. + +Kabarga.--The musk antelope. + +Kalmuck.--A Mongolian tribe, which migrated from Mongolia under +Jenghiz Khan (where they were known as the Olets or Eleuths), and +now live in the Urals and on the shores of the Volga in Russia. + +Kanpo.--The abbot of a Lamaite monastery, a monk; also the first +rank of "white" clergy (not monks). + +Kanpo-Gelong.--The highest rank of Gelongs (q.v.); an honorary +title. + +Karma.--The Buddhist materialization of the idea of Fate, a +parallel with the Greek and Roman Nemesis (Justice). + +Khan.--A king. + +Khayrus.--A kind of trout. + +Khirghiz.--The great Mongol nation living between the river Irtish +in western Siberia, Lake Balhash and the Volga in Russia. + +Kuropatka.--A partridge. + +Lama.--The common name for a Lamaite priest. + +Lan.--A weight of silver or gold equivalent to about one-eleventh +of a Russian pound, or 9/110ths of a pound avoirdupois. + +Lanhon.--A round bottle of clay. + +Maramba.--A doctor of theology. + +Merin.--The civil chief of police in every district of the Soyot +country in Urianhai. + +"Om! Mani padme Hung!".--"Om" has two meanings. It is the name of +the first Goro and also means: "Hail!" In this connection: +"Hail! Great Lama in the Lotus Flower!" + +Mende.--Soyot greeting--"Good Day." + +Nagan-hushun.--A Chinese vegetable garden or enclosure in Mongolia. + +Naida.--A form of fire used by Siberian woodsmen. + +Noyon.--A Prince or Khan. In polite address: "Chief," +"Excellency." + +Obo.--The sacred and propitiatory signs in all the dangerous places +in Urianhai and Mongolia. + +Olets.--Vid: Kalmuck. + +Om.--The name of the first Goro (q.v.) and also of the mysterious, +magic science of the Subterranean State. It means, also: "Hail!" + +Orochons.--A Mongolian tribe, living near the shores of the Amur +River in Siberia. + +Oulatchen.--The guard for the post horses; official guide. + +Ourton.--A post station, where the travelers change horses and +oulatchens. + +Pandita.--The high rank of Buddhist monks. + +Panti.--Deer horns in the velvet, highly prized as a Tibetan and +Chinese medicine. + +Pogrom.--A wholesale slaughter of unarmed people; a massacre. + +Paspa.--The founder of the Yellow Sect, predominating now in the +Lamaite faith. + +Sait.--A Mongolian governor. + +Salga.--A sand partridge. + +Sayn.--"Good day!" "Good morning!" "Good evening!" All right; +good. + +Taiga.--A Siberian word for forest. + +Taimen.--A species of big trout, reaching 120 pounds. + +Ta Lama.--Literally: "the great priest," but it means now "a +doctor of medicine." + +Tashur.--A strong bamboo stick. + +Turpan.--The red wild goose or Lama-goose. + +Tzagan.--White. + +Tzara.--A document, giving the right to receive horses and +oulatchens at the post stations. + +Tsirik.--Mongolian soldiers mobilized by levy. + +Tzuren.--A doctor-poisoner. + +Ulan.--Red. + +Urga.--The name of the capital of Mongolia; (2) a kind of Mongolian +lasso. + +Vatannen.--The language of the Subterranean State of the King of +the World. + +Wapiti.--The American elk. + +Yurta.--The common Mongolian tent or house, made of felt. + +Zahachine.--A West Mongolian wandering tribe. + +Zaberega.--The ice-mountains formed along the shores of a river in +spring. + +Zikkurat.--A high tower of Babylonish style. + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg Etext Beasts, Men and Gods, by F. 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